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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-22 10:53:09 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-22 10:53:09 -0800 |
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margin: 1em 10%; padding: .5em;} - .tnbot h2 - {font-size: 1em;} - .tnbot p - {text-indent: -1em; margin-left: 1em;} - .tnbox - {border: dashed thin; margin: 1em 20%; padding: 1em;} - ul.index - {list-style: none; margin: 1.5em 0; font-size: .9em;} - ul.index li - {text-align: justify; margin: 0 0 0 1em; text-indent: -1em;} - ul.index li.level1 - {margin-left: 3em;} - ul.index li.newletter - {margin-top: 1.5em;} - ul.index .pagenum - {font-size: .8em;} - - </style> - </head> -<body> - -<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Lake Regions of Central Africa, by Richard Francis Burton</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The Lake Regions of Central Africa</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0;'>A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Richard Francis Burton</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 24, 2021 [eBook #66812]</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Emmanuel Ackerman, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</div> - -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA ***</div> - -<div class="tnbox"> - -<p class="noindent">Please see the <a href="#TN">Transcriber’s Notes</a> at the end of this text.</p> - -<p class="noindent blankbefore75">The cover image has been created for this text, and is in the public domain.</p> - -</div><!--tnbox--> - -<div class="x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="container w30em"> -<img src="images/i_cover.jpg" alt="Cover" /> -</div> - -</div><!--scr only--> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h1><span class="fsize70">THE</span><br /> -LAKE REGIONS <span class="fsize70">OF</span> CENTRAL AFRICA<br /> -<span class="fsize60">VOL. I.</span></h1> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="printer">LONDON<br /> -<span class="gesp1">PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO</span>.<br /> -NEW-STREET SQUARE</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoi-1"> -<img src="images/i_illo004.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE IVORY PORTER.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="titlepage"> - -<p class="center highline6"><span class="fsize80">THE</span><br /> -<span class="fsize125">LAKE REGIONS <span class="fsize80">OF</span> CENTRAL AFRICA</span><br /> -<span class="fsize80">A PICTURE OF EXPLORATION</span></p> - -<p class="center highline2 blankbefore4 blankafter4"><span class="fsize80">BY</span><br /> -RICHARD F. BURTON<br /> -<span class="fsize70">Capt. H. M. I. Army: Fellow and Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society</span></p> - -<hr class="short" /> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="indent00">“<i>Some to discover islands far away</i>”—<i>Shakspere</i><br /></span> -</div> -</div> - -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<hr class="short" /> - -<p class="center highline4 blankbefore4"><span class="fsize90">IN TWO VOLUMES</span><br /> -VOL. I.</p> - -<p class="center highline2 blankbefore4">LONDON<br /> -LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS<br /> -1860</p> - -<p class="center fsize70 blankbefore4"><i>The right of translation is reserved</i></p> - -</div><!--titlepage--> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="center highline4"><span class="fsize60">TO</span><br /> -<span class="fsize80">MY SISTER,</span><br /> -<span class="gesp2">MARIA STISTED</span>,<br /> -<span class="gesp1 fsize90">THESE PAGES ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-vii">[vii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak frontmatter fsize110"><span class="gesp2">PREFACE</span>.</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">I had intended this record of personal adventure to -appear immediately after my return to Europe, in May -1859. The impaired health, the depression of spirits, -and worse still the annoyance of official correspondence, -which to me have been the sole results of African -Exploration, may be admitted as valid reasons for the -delay.</p> - -<p>In April, 1860, the Royal Geographical Society of -Great Britain honoured me by publishing a detailed paper, -forming the XXIXth Volume of their Journal, from -which the topographical descriptions contained in the -following pages have, with their kind permission, been -extracted. I have now attempted to combine with -geography and ethnology, a narrative of occurrences -and an exposition of the more popular and picturesque -points of view which the subject offers.</p> - -<p>When I communicated to my friends the publishers -certain intentions of writing an exclusively “light work,” -they protested against the project, stating that the -public appetite required the addition of stronger meat. -In compliance, therefore, with their suggestion, I have -drawn two portraits of the same object, and mingled -the gay with the graver details of travel, so as to -produce an antipathetic cento.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-viii">[viii]</span></p> - -<p>Modern “hinters to travellers” direct the explorer -and the missionary to eschew theory and opinion. We -are told somewhat peremptorily that it is our duty to -gather actualities not inferences—to see and not to think, -in fact, to confine ourselves to transmitting the rough -material collected by us, that it may be worked into -shape by the professionally learned at home. But why -may not the observer be allowed a voice concerning his -own observations, if at least his mind be sane and his -stock of collateral knowledge be respectable?</p> - -<p>I have not attempted to avoid intruding matters of a -private and personal nature upon the reader; it would -have been impossible to avoid egotism in a purely egotistical -narrative. The official matter, however, has been -banished into Appendix II. In publishing it, my desire -is to avoid the possibility of a charge being concealed -in the pigeon-holes of the India House, to be produced, -according to custom, with all the effect of a surprise -whenever its presence is convenient. I know the conditions -of appealing from those in office to a higher tribunal—the -Public. I well know them and I accept -them. <i>Avant tout, gentilhomme!</i></p> - -<p>I have spoken out my feelings concerning Captain -Speke, my companion in the Expedition which forms -the subject of these pages. The history of our companionship -is simply this:—As he had suffered with -me in purse and person at Berberah, in 1855, I -thought it but just to offer him the opportunity of renewing -an attempt to penetrate into Africa. I had no -other reasons. I could not expect much from his assistance; -he was not a linguist—French and Arabic -being equally unknown to him—nor a man of science, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-ix">[ix]</span> -nor an accurate astronomical observer. The Court of -Directors officially refused him leave of absence; I obtained -it for him by an application to the local authorities -at Bombay. During the exploration he acted in a -subordinate capacity; and as may be imagined amongst -a party of Arabs, Baloch, and Africans, whose languages -he ignored, he was unfit for any other but a subordinate -capacity. Can I then feel otherwise than indignant, -when I find that, after preceding me from Aden to -England, with the spontaneous offer, on his part, of not -appearing before the Society that originated the Expedition -until my return, he had lost no time in taking -measures to secure for himself the right of working the -field which I had opened, and that from that day he has -placed himself <i>en evidence</i> as the <i>primum mobile</i> of an -Expedition, in which he signed himself “surveyor,”—<i>cujus -pars minima fuit</i>?</p> - -<p>With deference to the reader’s judgment, I venture -to express a hope that whatever of unrefinement appears -in these pages, may be charged to the subject. -It has been my duty to draw a Dutch picture, a cabaret-piece -which could not be stripped of its ordonnance, its -boors, its pipes, and its pots. I have shirked nothing -of the unpleasant task,—of recording processes and not -only results; I have entered into the recital of the maladies, -the weary squabbles, and the vast variety of -petty troubles, without which the <i>coup d’œil</i> of African -adventure would be more like a Greek Saint in effigy—all -lights and no shade—than the chapter of accidents -which it now is.</p> - -<p>The map and the <a href="#Pagei-xi">lists of stations, dates, &c.</a>, have -been drawn upon the plan adopted by Mr. Francis -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-x">[x]</span> -Galton, F.R.G.S. The outline of Africa, the work of Mr. -Weller, F.R.G.S., contains the latest and the best information -concerning the half-explored interior of the -Continent. The route-map has been borrowed by -permission from the laborious and conscientious compilation -of Mr. Findlay, F.R.G.S., accompanying the -paper forwarded by me to the Royal Geographical -Society. The latter gentleman has also kindly supplied -a profile of the country traversed, showing the Eastern -limits of the Great Depression, and the “elevated-trough -formation” of Central Africa.</p> - -<p>In conclusion, I would solicit forbearance in all that -concerns certain errors of omission and commission -scattered through these pages. The migratory instinct -is now hurrying me towards the New World: I have, -therefore, been obliged to content myself with a single -revise.</p> - -<p class="noindent blankbefore4 fsize80"><span class="padl8">10th April,</span><br /> -<span class="padl4">E.I.U.S. Club, 14 St. James’s Square.</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-xi">[xi]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">DATES OF JOURNEYING.</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<table class="travdates" summary="Dates"> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="3" class="year">1856</td> -<td class="date"><span class="padl3"> September</span></td> -<td class="event">Left England.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">2nd December</td> -<td class="event">Sailed from Bombay.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">19th December</td> -<td class="event">Arrived at Zanzibar Island.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="4" class="year">1857</td> -<td class="date">6th January</td> -<td class="event">Left Zanzibar the first time.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">14th June</td> -<td class="event">Left Zanzibar the second time.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">27th June</td> -<td class="event">Set out from Kaole on the coast.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">7th November</td> -<td class="event">Arrived at Unyanyembe of Unyamwezi.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="5" class="year">1858</td> -<td class="date">14th February</td> -<td class="event">Reached Ujiji on the Tanganyika Lake.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">26th April</td> -<td class="event">Arrived at Uvira on the North of the Tanganyika Lake.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">26th May</td> -<td class="event">Left Ujiji.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">19th June</td> -<td class="event">Returned to Unyanyembe.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">26th September</td> -<td class="event">Left Unyanyembe.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="4" class="year">1859</td> -<td class="date">3rd February</td> -<td class="event">Reached Konduchi on the coast.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">4th March</td> -<td class="event">Landed at Zanzibar Island.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">4th May</td> -<td class="event">Left Aden.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="date">20th May</td> -<td class="event">Landed at Southampton.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">LIST STASIMETRIC AND HYPSOMETRIC.<br /> -<span class="fsize80">NAMES OF KHAMBI OR STAGES MADE BY THE EAST AFRICAN EXPEDITION, AND -HEIGHTS OF THE SEVERAL CRUCIAL STATIONS.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<h3>FIRST REGION.</h3> - -<table class="journeys" summary="Journeys"> - -<tr class="bt bb"> -<td colspan="2" class="bl br"> </td> -<td colspan="7" class="center br"><span class="padl1 padr1 smcap">From Kaole on the Coast to Zungomero, chief district -of K’hutu.</span></td> -<td colspan="2" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="18" class="bb bl"><span class="padl1 padr1"> </span></td> -<td class="br"> </td> -<td colspan="7" class="br"> </td> -<th class="center fsize90">H.</th> -<th class="center fsize90 br">M.</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">1</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Kaoli to Mgude or Kuingani</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">2</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Kuingani to Bomani</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">3</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Bomani to Mkwaju la Mvuani</td> -<td class="hours">0</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">4</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Mkwaju to Nzasa (of Uzaramo)</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">5</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Nzasa to Kiranga-Ranga</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">6</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Kiranga-Ranga to Tumba Ihere</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">7</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Tumba Ihere to Muhonyera</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">8</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Muhonyera to Sagesera</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">9</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Sagesera to Tunda</td> -<td class="hours">7</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">10</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Tunda to Dege la Mhora</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">11</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Dege la Mhora to Madege Madogo</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">12</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Madege Madogo to Kidunda</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">13</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Kidunda to Mgeta Ford</td> -<td class="hours">7</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">14</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Mgeta Ford to Kiruru in K’hutu</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">15</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Kiruru to Dut’humi</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">16</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Dut’humi to Bakera</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br bb">17</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Bakera to Zungomero</td> -<td class="hours bb">7</td> -<td class="mins bb">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td class="center bl">☉</td> -<td class="number br">17</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage"> </td> -<td class="hours">67</td> -<td class="mins">55</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="bl fsize90"> </td> -<td class="left fsize90">Kaole,</td> -<td class="left fsize90"><span class="nowrap">Latitude, South,</span></td> -<td class="right fsize90">6°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">25′</td> -<td class="left fsize90"><span class="nowrap"> Longitude, East,</span></td> -<td class="right fsize90">38°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">51′.</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="br fsize90"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left fsize90">Zungomero,</td> -<td class="left fsize90">Latitude, South,</td> -<td class="right fsize90">7°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">27′</td> -<td class="left fsize90"> Longitude, East,</td> -<td class="right fsize90">37°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">22′.</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="br bb bl"> -<td colspan="11" class="center fsize90"><span class="nowrap">Altitude of Zungomero, 330 feet above sea level.<br />Average -altitude of First Region, by B. P. Therm., 230 feet.</span></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-xii">[xii]</span></p> - -<h3>SECOND REGION.</h3> - -<table class="journeys" summary="Journeys"> - -<tr class="bt bb"> -<td colspan="2" class="bl br"> </td> -<td colspan="7" class="center br"><span class="padl1 padr1 smcap">From Zungomero, over the Mountains of Usagara, -to Ugogi.</span></td> -<td colspan="2" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="bl br"> </td> -<td colspan="7" class="br"> </td> -<th class="center fsize90">H.</th> -<th class="center fsize90 br">M.</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="23" class="bb bl"><span class="padl1 padr1"> </span></td> -<td class="number br">1</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Zungomero to Mzizi Mdogo (in Usagara)</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">2</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Mzizi Mdogo to Chya K’henge</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">3</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Chya K’henge to Rufuta River</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">4</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Rufuta River (up the Goma Pass) to Mfu’uni</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins">50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">5</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Mfu’uni to “Overshot Nullah”</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">10</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">6</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">“Overshot Nullah” to Zonhwe</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">7</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Zonhwe to Muhama</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">8</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Muhama to Makata</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">9</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Makata to Myombo River</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">10</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Myombo River to Mbumi</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">11</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Mbumi to Kadetamare</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">55</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">12</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Kadetamare to Muinyi</td> -<td class="hours">8</td> -<td class="mins">10</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">13</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Muinyi to Nidabi</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">14</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Nidabi to Rumuma</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">15</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Rumuma to Marenga Mk’hali</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">16</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Marenga Mk’hali to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">17</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Jungle to Inenge</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">18</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Inenge to first gradient of Rubeho Pass</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">19</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">First gradient to second gradient ditto</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">20</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Second gradient to summit of Rubeho</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">21</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">Summit to ☉ one quarter of the way down the counterslope</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">22</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">From ☉ on slope to ☉ below half-way</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br bb">23</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage">From ☉ below half-way to Ugogi at the base</td> -<td class="hours bb">4</td> -<td class="mins bb">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="center bl">☉</td> -<td colspan="8" class="left"><span class="nowrap">23 + 27 (carried forward) = 33 ☉’s</span></td> -<td class="hours">103</td> -<td class="mins">25</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="9" class="totals bl">Carried forward,</td> -<td class="hours bb">67</td> -<td class="mins bb">55</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td colspan="9" class="totals bl">Total hours from the coast to Ugogi</td> -<td class="hours">171</td> -<td class="mins">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="fsize90 bl"> </td> -<td class="left fsize90">Rubeho Pass, (about)</td> -<td class="left fsize90"><span class="nowrap">Latitude, South,</span></td> -<td class="right fsize90">6°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">38′</td> -<td class="left fsize90"><span class="nowrap"> Longitude, East,</span></td> -<td class="right fsize90">36°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">19′</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="fsize90 br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left fsize90">Ugogi,</td> -<td class="left fsize90">Latitude, South,</td> -<td class="right fsize90">6°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">40′</td> -<td class="left fsize90"> Longitude, East,</td> -<td class="right fsize90">36°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">6′</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="br bb bl"> -<td colspan="11" class="center fsize90"><span class="nowrap">Altitude of Rubeho summit, 5700.<br />Altitude of Ugogi -at Western Counterslope, by B. P. Therm. 2770.</span></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<h3>THIRD REGION.</h3> - -<table class="journeys" summary="Journeys"> - -<tr class="bt bb"> -<td colspan="4" class="bl br"> </td> -<td class="center padl1 padr1 br"><span class="smcap padl1 padr1">From Ugogi, through Marenga Mk’hali, Ugogo, and Mgunda -Mk’hali, to Tura of Unyamwezi.</span></td> -<td colspan="2" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="bl br"> </td> -<td class="br"> </td> -<th class="center fsize90">H.</th> -<th class="center fsize90 br">M.</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right bl">☉</td> -<td class="number br">1</td> -<td class="stage">Ugogi to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="4" class="region">Marenga<br />Mk’hali.</td> -<td rowspan="4" class="brace">-</td> -<td rowspan="4" class="brace bt bb bl"> </td> -<td class="number br">2</td> -<td class="stage">Jungle to Marenga Mk’hali (second of that name)</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">3</td> -<td class="stage">Marenga Mk’hali to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">10</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">4</td> -<td class="stage">☉ in Jungle to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">5</td> -<td class="stage">☉ in Jungle to Ziwa or tank (on frontier of Ugogo)</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="thinline bl br"> </td> -<td class="thinline br"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="thinline br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="8" class="region">Ugogo.</td> -<td rowspan="8" class="brace">-</td> -<td rowspan="8" class="brace bt bb bl"> </td> -<td class="number br">6</td> -<td class="stage">Ziwa to Kifukuru</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">7</td> -<td class="stage">Kifukuru to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">8</td> -<td class="stage">☉ in Jungle to Kanyenye</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins">25</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">9</td> -<td class="stage">Kanyenye to Kanyenye of Magomba</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">10</td> -<td class="stage">Kanyenye of Magomba to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">11</td> -<td class="stage">☉ in Jungle to K’hok’ho</td> -<td class="hours">7</td> -<td class="mins">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">12</td> -<td class="stage">K’hok’ho to Mdaburu</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">13</td> -<td class="stage">Mdaburu to ☉ in Jungle of Mgunda Mk’hali</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="thinline bl br"> </td> -<td class="thinline br"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="thinline br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="7" class="region">Mganda<br />Mk’hali.</td> -<td rowspan="7" class="brace">-</td> -<td rowspan="7" class="brace bt bb bl"> </td> -<td class="number br">14</td> -<td class="stage">Mgunda Mk’hali to -Mabunguru<span class="pagenum fsize200" id="Pagei-xiii"><span class="fsize110">[xiii]</span></span></td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">15</td> -<td class="stage">Mabunguru to Jiwe la Mkoa</td> -<td class="hours">7</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">16</td> -<td class="stage">Jiwe la Mkoa to Kirurumo</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins">10</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">17</td> -<td class="stage">Kirurumo to Jiweni of Uyanzi</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">18</td> -<td class="stage">Jiweni to Mgongo Thembo</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">19</td> -<td class="stage">Mgongo Thembo to ☉ Tura Nullah</td> -<td class="hours">7</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">20</td> -<td class="stage">☉ Tura Nullah to Tura in Unyamwezi</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="thinline bl br bb"> </td> -<td class="thinline br"> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="thinline br bb"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right bl"><span class="padr1">☉</span></td> -<td colspan="2" class="left"><span class="nowrap">20 + 33 (carried forward) = 53.</span></td> -<td class="hours">93</td> -<td class="mins">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="5" class="totals bl">Carried forward</td> -<td class="hours bb">171</td> -<td class="mins bb">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td colspan="5" class="totals bl">Total hours from the coast to Tura</td> -<td class="hours">265</td> -<td class="mins">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="center fsize90 bl br"><span class="nowrap">Eastern limit of Tura, Latitude, South, 5° 27′ Longitude, -East, 34°.</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td colspan="7" class="center fsize90 bl br"><span class="nowrap">Altitude, by Bath. Thermometer, 4125 feet.</span></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<h3>FOURTH REGION.</h3> - -<table class="journeys" summary="Journeys"> - -<tr class="bt bb"> -<td colspan="4" class="bl br"> </td> -<td colspan="7" class="center br"><span class="smcap padl1 padr1">Through Unyamwezi, Ugara, Uwende, and Uvinza, to Ford -of Malagarazi River.</span></td> -<td colspan="5" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="bl br"> </td> -<td colspan="7" class="br"> </td> -<th class="center fsize90">H.</th> -<th class="center fsize90">M.</th> -<td colspan="3" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="32" colspan="3" class="bl"> </td> -<td class="number br">1</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Eastern limit of Tura to Western Tura.</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -<td rowspan="16" colspan="3" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">2</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Western Tura to Kwale Nullah</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">3</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Kwale Nullah to Eastern Rubuga</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins noborder">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">4</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Eastern Rubuga to Western Rubuga</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">5</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Western Rubuga to Ukona</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">15</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">6</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Ukona to Kigwa</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins noborder">5</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">7</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Kigwa to Hanga village</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">8</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Hanga to Kazeh (Arab ☉)</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">9</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Kazeh to Zimbili Hill</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins noborder">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">10</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Zimbili to Yombo</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">11</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Yombo to Pano (clearing in Jungle)</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">12</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Pano to Eastern Mfuto</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins noborder">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">13</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Eastern Mfuto to Western Mfuto</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">14</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Western Mfuto to Eastern Wilyankuru</td> -<td class="hours">6</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">15</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Eastern Wilyankuru to Central Wilyankuru</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">16</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Central Wilyankuru to Western Wilyankuru</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">17</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Western Wilyankuru to Masenge</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -<td rowspan="4" class="brace bt br bb"> </td> -<td rowspan="4" class="brace">-</td> -<td rowspan="4" class="remarks">Expe-<br />dition<br />sepa-<br />rated.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">18</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Masenge to Eastern Kirira</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">19</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Eastern Kirira to Western Kirira</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">20</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Western Kirira to Eastern Msene</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">21</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Eastern Msene to Western Msene (Arab ☉)</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -<td rowspan="17" colspan="3" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">22</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Western Msene to Mbhali</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">23</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Mbhali to Sengati</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">24</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Sengati to Sorora or Solola</td> -<td class="hours">0</td> -<td class="mins noborder">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">25</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Sorora to Ukungwe</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">15</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">26</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Ukungwe to Panda</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins noborder">50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">27</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Panda to Kajjanjeri</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">28</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Kajjanjeri to Eastern Usagozi</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins noborder">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">29</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Eastern Usagozi to Western Usagozi</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">30</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Western Usagozi to Masenga of Wagara</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">31</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Masenga to Mukozimo of Wawende</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">32</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Mukozimo to Uganza of Wanyamwezi</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins noborder">15</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="5" class="region">Uvinza.</td> -<td rowspan="5" class="brace">-</td> -<td rowspan="5" class="brace bt bb bl"> </td> -<td class="number br">33</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Uganza to Usenye of Wavinza</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">34</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Usenye to Rukunda</td> -<td class="hours">2</td> -<td class="mins noborder">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">35</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Rukunda to Wanyika</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">36</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Wanyika to Unyanguruwwe</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins noborder">50</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">37</td> -<td colspan="7" class="stage br">Unyanguruwwe to Ugaga on the Malagarazi River</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins noborder">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4" class="thinline br bb bl"> </td> -<td colspan="7" class="thinline br"> </td> -<td colspan="5" class="thinline br bb"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="right bl"><span class="padr1">☉</span></td> -<td colspan="8" class="left">37 + 53 (carried over) = 90</td> -<td class="hours">110</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -<td rowspan="3" colspan="3" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="11" class="totals bl">Carried forward</td> -<td class="hours bb">265</td> -<td class="mins noborder bb">0</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td colspan="11" class="totals bl">Total hours from coast to Malagarazi River</td> -<td class="hours">375</td> -<td class="mins noborder">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="4" colspan="4" class="bl"> </td> -<td class="left fsize90">Kazeh</td> -<td class="left fsize90"><span class="nowrap">Latitude, South,</span></td> -<td class="right fsize90">5°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">1′.</td> -<td class="left fsize90"><span class="nowrap"> Longitude, East,</span></td> -<td class="right fsize90">33°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">3′.</td> -<td colspan="5" rowspan="4" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="left fsize90"><span class="nowrap">Malagarazi Ferry.</span></td> -<td class="left fsize90">Latitude, South,</td> -<td class="right fsize90">5°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">7′.</td> -<td class="left fsize90"> Longitude, East,</td> -<td class="right fsize90">31°</td> -<td class="right fsize90">13′.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="7" class="center fsize90">Altitude of Kazeh, by Bath Therm. 3490 feet.</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td colspan="7" class="center fsize90">Altitude of Usenye, by Bath Therm. 3190 feet.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-xiv">[xiv]</span></p> - -<h3>FIFTH REGION.</h3> - -<table class="journeys" summary="Journeys"> - -<tr class="bt bb"> -<td colspan="2" class="bl br"> </td> -<td class="center br"><span class="smcap padl1 padr1">From the Malagarazi Ferry to Ukaranga on the Tanganyika Lake.</span></td> -<td colspan="2" class="br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="bl br"> </td> -<td class="br"> </td> -<th class="fsize90">H.</th> -<th class="fsize90 br">M.</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="10" class="bl bb"> </td> -<td class="number br">1</td> -<td class="stage">Ugaga on left to Mpete on right hand</td> -<td class="hours">0</td> -<td class="mins br">25</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">2</td> -<td class="stage">Mpete to Kinawani</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins br">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">3</td> -<td class="stage">Kinawani to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins br">25</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">4</td> -<td class="stage">☉ in Jungle to Jambeho</td> -<td class="hours">1</td> -<td class="mins br">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">5</td> -<td class="stage">Jambeho to Salt pans of Rusugi River</td> -<td class="hours">5</td> -<td class="mins br">15</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">6</td> -<td class="stage">Salt pans to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins br">20</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">7</td> -<td class="stage">☉ in Jungle to Ruguvu River</td> -<td class="hours">3</td> -<td class="mins br">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">8</td> -<td class="stage">Ruguvu River to Unguwwe River</td> -<td class="hours">4</td> -<td class="mins br">40</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br">9</td> -<td class="stage">Unguwwe River to ☉ in Jungle</td> -<td class="hours">7</td> -<td class="mins br">35</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="number br bb">10</td> -<td class="stage">☉ in Jungle to Ukaranga on Lake</td> -<td class="hours bb">6</td> -<td class="mins br bb">35</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="right bl"><span class="padr1">☉</span></td> -<td colspan="2" class="left">10 + 90 (carried forward) = 100</td> -<td class="hours">44</td> -<td class="mins br">45</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="bl"> </td> -<td class="totals">Carried forward</td> -<td class="hours bb">375</td> -<td class="mins br bb">30</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="totals">Total hours from the coast to the Tanganyika Lake</td> -<td class="hours">420</td> -<td class="mins br">25</td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bt"> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="fsize90 bl"> </td> -<td class="center fsize90">Ukaranga, Latitude, South, 4° 58′. Longitude, East, 30° 3′ 30″.</td> -<td rowspan="2" colspan="2" class="fsize90 br"> </td> -</tr> - -<tr class="bb"> -<td class="center fsize90">Altitude by Bath Therm. 1850.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>The distance from Kaole to Ujiji is of 540 rectilinear geographical miles: or in statute -miles, allowing one for windings of the road, thus:</p> - -<table class="standard" summary="Distances"> - -<tr> -<td class="text">From Kaole to Kazeh, statute miles</td> -<td class="numbers">520</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">From Kazeh to Ujiji, statute miles</td> -<td class="numbers bb">276</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="numbers">796</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text"><span class="padl6 padr4">Add one fifth for detour—159 miles</span></td> -<td class="numbers bb">159</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text"><span class="padl6 padr4">Total of statute miles</span></td> -<td class="numbers">955</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>Assuming the absolute time of travelling to be 420 hours, this will give a marching -rate of 2·27 miles per hour.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-xv">[xv]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak frontmatter">CONTENTS<br /> -<span class="fsize50">OF</span><br /> -<span class="fsize80"><span class="gesp2">THE FIRST VOLUME</span>.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<table class="tocloi" summary="ToC"> - -<tr> -<th> </th> -<th class="right padl2 fsize80">Page</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap notop">CHAPTER I.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">We quit Zanzibar Island in Dignified Style</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-1">1</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. II.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">Zanzibar and the Mrima explained</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-28">28</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. III.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">Transit of the Valley of the Kingani and the Mgeta Rivers</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-41">41</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. IV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">On the Geography and Ethnology of the First Region</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-100">100</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. V.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">Halt at Zungomero, and Formation of the Caravan</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-127">127</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. VI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">We cross the East African Ghauts</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-158">158</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. VII.<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-xvi">[xvi]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">The Geography and Ethnology of the Second Region</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-225">225</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. VIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">We succeed in traversing Ugogo</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-241">241</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. IX.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">The Geography and Ethnography of Ugogo—the Third Region</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-294">294</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. X.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">We enter Unyamwezi, the Far-famed Land of the Moon</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-313">313</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">We conclude the Transit of Unyamwezi</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pagei-375">375</a></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-xvii">[xvii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak frontmatter">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS<br /> -<span class="fsize50">IN</span><br /> -<span class="fsize80">THE FIRST VOLUME.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<table class="tocloi" summary="LoI"> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chap">CHROMOXYLOGRAPHS.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-1">The Ivory Porter</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno"><i>Frontispiece.</i></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-2">Zanzibar Town from the Sea</a></td> -<td class="right nowrap"><i>to face page</i></td> -<td class="pagno">1</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-3">A Town on the Mrima</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">28</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-4">Explorers in East Africa</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">127</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-5">The East African Ghauts</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">158</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-6">View in Unyamwezi</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">313</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chap">WOODCUTS.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-7">The Wazaramo Tribe</a></td> -<td class="pagno">41</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-8">Party of Wah’hutu Women</a></td> -<td class="pagno">100</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-9">A village in K’hutu. The Silk Cotton Tree</a></td> -<td class="pagno">157</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-10">Sycomore Tree in the Dhun Ugogi</a></td> -<td class="pagno">158</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-11">Maji ya W’heta, or the Jetting Fountain in K’hutu</a></td> -<td class="pagno">225</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-12">Ugogo</a></td> -<td class="pagno">241</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-13">Usagara Mountains, seen from Ugogo</a></td> -<td class="pagno">294</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-14">Ladies’ Smoking Party</a></td> -<td class="pagno">313</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="descr"><a href="#Illoi-15">African House Building</a></td> -<td class="pagno">375</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoi-2"> -<img src="images/i_illo022.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">ZANZIBAR TOWN FROM THE SEA.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-1">[1]</span></p> - -<p class="fauxh1"><span class="fsize50">THE</span><br /> -LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAPTER I.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">WE QUIT ZANZIBAR ISLAND IN DIGNIFIED STYLE.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">At noon, on the 16th of June, 1857, the corvette Artémise, -after the usual expenditure of gunpowder which must in -Eastern lands announce every momentous event, from -the birth of a prince to the departure of a bishop, slowly -gliding out of Zanzibar harbour, afforded us a farewell -glance at the whitewashed mosques and houses of the -Arabs, the cadjan-huts, the cocoa-grown coasts, and the -ruddy hills striped with long lines of clove. Onwards -she stole before a freshening breeze, the balmy breath of -the Indian Ocean, under a sun that poured a flood of -sparkling light over the azure depths and the bright -green shallows around, between the “elfin isles” of Kumbeni, -with its tall trees, and Chumbi, tufted with dense -thickets, till the white sandstrip mingled with the blue -ocean, the gleaming line of dwarf red cliff and scaur -dropped into the water’s edge, the land faded from emerald -to brown, and from brown to hazy purple, the tufts -of the trees seemed first to stand out of, then to swim -upon, the wave, and as evening, the serenest of tropical -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-2">[2]</span> -evenings, closed in over sky, earth, and sea, a cloud-like -ridge, dimly discernible from our quarter, was all that -remained of Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>I will not here stay the course of my narrative to -inform the reader that Zanzibar is not, as the Cyclopædias -declare, “an island of Africa, governed by a -king who is subject to the Portuguese;” that it is not, -as the Indian post-offices appear to believe, a part of -the Persian Gulf; nor, as homekeeping folk, whose notions -of African geography are somewhat dim and ill-defined, -have mentally determined, a rock in the Red -Sea, nor a dependency of the Niger, nor even an offshoot -of the Cape of Storms.</p> - -<p>The Artémise is a kind of “Jackass-frigate,” an 18-gun -corvette, teak-built in Bombay, with a goodly -breadth of beam, a slow sailer, but a sure. In the days -of our deceased ally, Sayyid Said, the misnamed “Imaum -of Muscat,” she had so frequently been placed by his -Highness at the disposal of his old friend Lieut.-Colonel -Hamerton, that she had acquired the sobriquet of “the -Balyuz or Consul’s yacht.” On this occasion she had -been fitted up for a cruise to the mainland; her yards, -usually struck, had been swayed up and thrown across; -her top spars had been transferred from the hold to their -proper place; her ropes and rigging, generally hanging -in tatters about her sticks, had been carefully overhauled; -her old sails had been bent, and her usual -crew, a few slaves that held their own with difficulty -against a legion of rats and an army of cockroaches, had -been increased to its full complement of twenty men. -His Highness the Sayyid Majid, who after the demise of -his father had assumed the title of “Sultan of Zanzibar -and the Sawahil,” came on board accompanied by his -four brothers, of whom two—Sayyids Jamshid and Hamdan—died -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-3">[3]</span> -of small-pox before our return, and one—Sayyid -Barghash—has lately become a state prisoner at -Bombay, to bid what proved a last adieu to his father’s -friend. At the same time His Highness honoured me, -through his secretary, Ahmed bin Nuuman, more generally -known as Wajhayn, or “Two-faces,” with three -letters of introduction, to Musa Mzuri, the Indian doyen -of the merchants settled at Unyamwezi, to the Arabs -there resident, and to all his subjects who were travelling -into the interior.</p> - -<p>The Artémise conveyed the <i>personnel</i> and the <i>matériel</i> -of the East African Expedition, namely, the two -European members—my companion and myself—two -Portuguese, or rather half-caste Goanese “boys,” two -Negro gun-carriers, the Seedy Mubarak Mombai (Bombay), -and Muinyi Mabruki, his “brother,” and finally, eight -so-called “Baloch” mercenaries, a guard appointed by -the Sultan to accompany me. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, -at that time Her Majesty’s consul and Hon. East India -Company’s agent at Zanzibar, though almost lethargic -from the effects of protracted illness—he lived only in -the evening—had deemed it his duty to land us upon -the coast, and to superintend our departure from the -dangerous seaboard. He was attended by Mr. Frost, the -apothecary attached to the consulate, whose treatment -for a fatal liver-complaint appeared to consist of minute -doses of morphia and a liberal diet of sugar.</p> - -<p>By Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton’s advice, I ventured -to modify the scheme of the East African Expedition, as -originally proposed by the Expeditionary Committee of -the Royal Geographical Society of London. In 1855, -M. Erhardt, an energetic member of the hapless “Mombas -Mission,” had on his return to London offered to -explore a vast mass of water, about the size of the Caspian, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-4">[4]</span> -which, from the information of divers “natives,” -he had deposited in slug or leech shape in the heart of -Intertropical Africa, thus prolonging the old “Maravi,” or -“Moravim Lake” of Portuguese travellers and school -atlases, to the north of the equator, and thus bringing -a second deluge upon sundry provinces and kingdoms -thoroughly well known for the last half century. He -had proposed to land, with an outfit of 300 dollars<a id="FNanchor1"></a><a href="#Footnote1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, -at Kilwa, one of the southern ports of the Zanzibar -mainland, to hire a score of Wasawahili porters, to -march with a caravan upon the nearest point of his -own water, and to launch an adventurous canoe upon -a lake which, according to his map, could not be traversed -under twenty-five days. Messrs. Erhardt and -Krapf, of the “Mombas Mission,” spent, it is true, a -few hours at Kilwa, where they were civilly entreated by -the governor and the citizens; but they egregiously deceived -themselves and others, when they concluded that -they could make that place their ingress-point. Lieut. -Christopher, I.N., who visited the East African coast in -1843, wisely advised explorers to avoid the neighbourhood -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-5">[5]</span> -of Kilwa. Wisely, I repeat: the burghers of that -proud old settlement had, only a year before my arrival, -murdered, by means of the Wangindo savages, an Arab -merchant who ventured to lay open the interior.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote1"></a><a href="#FNanchor1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> -The sum was wholly inadequate. M. Erhardt has, I have been told, expended -as much on a week’s march from Pangani Town to Fuga. The smallest -of Wasawahili pedlars would hardly deem an outfit of 300 dollars sufficient. -M. Erhardt was, even according to his own reduced ideas of distance, to march -with twenty followers 400 miles, and to explore a lake 300 miles in breadth -and of unknown length. In 1802, when cloth and beads were twice their -present value in Africa, the black Pombeiros sent by M. Da Costa, superintendent -of the “Cassangi Factory,” carried with them for the necessary -expenses and presents, goods to the value of nearly 500<i>l.</i> M. Erhardt’s -estimate was highly injurious to future travellers: either he knew the truth, -and he should have named at once a reasonable estimate, or he was ignorant -of the subject, and he should have avoided it. The consequence of his proposal -was simply this:—With 5000<i>l.</i> instead of 1000<i>l.</i>, the limited sum of the -Government grant, the East African Expedition could have explored the -whole central area; nothing but the want of supplies caused their return at -the time when, after surmounting sickness, hardship, and want of discipline -amongst the party, they were ready to push to the extreme end.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>At the same time I had laid before the Council of the -Royal Geographical Society my desire to form an expedition -primarily for the purpose of ascertaining the limits -of the “Sea of Ujiji, or Unyamwezi Lake,” and secondarily, -to determine the exportable produce of the interior, -and the ethnography of its tribes. I have quoted -exactly the words of the application. In these days every -explorer of Central Africa is supposed to have set out -in quest of the coy sources of the White Nile, and -when he returns without them, his exploration, whatever -may have been its value, is determined to be a failure. -The Council honoured my plans with their approval. At -their solicitation, the Foreign Office granted the sum -of 1000<i>l.</i> for the outlay of the exploration, and the defunct -Court of Directors of the late East India Company, -who could not be persuaded to contribute towards the -expenses, generously allowed me two years’ leave of -absence from regimental duty, for the purpose of commanding -the Expedition. I also received instructions -to report myself to his Excellency the Lord Elphinstone, -then Governor of Bombay, and to Lieut.-Colonel -Hamerton, from whose influence and long experience -much was expected.</p> - -<p>When the starting-point came to be debated, the -Consul strongly objected to an Expedition into the interior -<i>viâ</i> Kilwa, on account of the opposition to be -expected at a port so distant from the seat of government, -where the people, half-caste Arabs and Wasawahili, -who are under only a nominal control, still retained -a strong predilection for protection, and a violent -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-6">[6]</span> -hostility to strangers. These reasons led him to propose -my landing upon the coast opposite Zanzibar, and -to my thence marching with a strong escort, despatched -by the Arab prince, through the maritime tribes, whose -cruel murder of M. Maizan, the first European known -to have penetrated beyond the sea-board, was yet fresh -in the memories of men. This notion was accepted the -more readily, as during my short preliminary sojourn -at Zanzibar, I had satisfactorily ascertained from Arab -travellers that the Maravi or Kilwa Lake is distinct from -the “Sea of Ujiji;” that the former is of comparatively -diminutive dimensions; that there is no caravan route -between the two; and therefore that, by exploring the -smaller, I should lose the chance of discovering the -larger water. Moreover, the general feeling of the -Zanzibarites—of the Christian merchants, whom I had -offended by collecting statistics about copal-digging, ivory, -and sesamum—of the Bhattias or Hindus of Cutch, who -systematically abuse the protection of the British flag to -support the interest of the slave trade—of the Arabs, -who remembered nothing but political intrigue in the explorations -of the “Mombas Mission,” and the lamentable -result of Dr. Krapf’s political intrigues—and of the -Africans generally, who are disposed to see in every -innovation some new form of evil—had been conveyed -to my ears explicitly enough to warrant my apprehensions -for the success of the Expedition, had I insisted -upon carrying out the project proposed by M. Erhardt.</p> - -<p>I must here explain, that before my departure from -England, the Church Missionary Society had supplied -me, after a personal interview in Salisbury Square, with -a letter to their <i>employé</i>, M. Rebmann, the last remnant -of that establishment at Mombasah, which had, it is -said, expended about 12,000<i>l.</i> with the minimest of results. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-7">[7]</span> -The missionaries had commenced operations with -vigour, and to the work of conversion they had added -certain discoveries in the unknown lands of the interior, -which attracted the attention of European geographers. -Unhappily Dr. Krapf, the principal, happened to commit -himself by the following assertion:—“The Imaum of -Muskat has not an inch of ground on the coast between -the Island of Wassin and the Pangani River; this tract, -in fact, belonging to King Kmeri of Usumbara, down -from 4° 30′ to 5° 30′ S. The tract, which is very low, -is inhabited by the Wasegua tribes, and is the chief -slave-market for supplying Zanzibar.”</p> - -<p>This “information,” put forth in the Journal of the -Royal Geographical Society (vol. i. p. 203), was copied -into the Proceedings (vol. xxiii. p. 106), with the remark, -that the territory alluded to was a “supposed -possession” of the Imaum. Orientals are thin-skinned -upon questions of land; the assertion was directly -opposed to fact, and the jealousy of the rival representatives -at Zanzibar each on his own side, exaggerated -its tendency. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, who felt his -influence sapped by this error on the part of his protégé, -had reported the facts to his government. Dr. -Krapf had quitted the scene of his labours and discoveries, -but his Highness the Sultan and the sadat, -or court, retained a lively remembrance of the regretable -incident. Before the arrival of the Expedition, -“Muhiyy-el-Din,” the Shafei Kazi of the island, had -called upon Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, probably by direction -of his superiors, and had received an answer, -fortified by an oath, that the Expedition was wholly -independent of “Dutchmen,” as the missionaries were -called by the Zanzibarites. I was compelled, somewhat -unwillingly, to dispense with urging M. Rebmann’s -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-8">[8]</span> -presence. By acting in any other way I should have -lost the assistance of the consul, and the Arabs, with a -ready display of zeal, would have secured for me an inevitable -failure.</p> - -<p>At six <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> on Wednesday, the 17th of June, 1857, -the Artémise cast anchor off Wale Point, a long, low -bush-grown sandspit, about eighty-four miles distant -from the little town of Bagamoyo. Our sailing-master, -Mohammed bin Khamis, anchored in deep water, throwing -out double the length of chain required. For this -prudence, however, there was some reason. The road-steads -are open; the muddy bottom shelves gradually, -almost imperceptibly; the tides retire ten or eleven feet, -and a strong gale, accompanied by the dangerous raz -de marée, or rollers from seaward, especially at the -seasons of the syzygies, with such a shore to leeward, is -justly dreaded by the crews of square-rigged vessels.</p> - -<p>There is a something peculiarly interesting in the first -aspect of the “Mrima,” the hill-land, as this portion of -the African coast is called by the islanders of Zanzibar. -On one side lies the Indian Ocean, illimitable towards -the east, dimpled with its “anerithmon gelasma,” and -broken westward by a thin line of foam, creaming upon -the whitest and finest of sand, the detritus of coralline -and madrepore. It dents the coast deeply, forming -bays, bayous, lagoons, and backwaters, where, after -breaking their force upon bars and black ledges of sand -and rock, upon diabolitos, or sun-stained masses of a -coarse conglomerate, and upon strong weirs planted -in crescent shape, the waters lie at rest in the arms -of the land like sheets of oil. The points and islets -formed by these sea-streams are almost flush with the -briny surface, yet they are overgrown with a profuse vegetation, -the result of tropical suns and copious showers, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-9">[9]</span> -which supply the want of rich soil. The banks of the -backwaters are lined with forests of white and red mangrove. -When the tide is out, the cone-shaped root-work -supporting each tree rises naked from the deep -sea-ooze; parasitical oysters cluster over the trunks at -water-level, and between the adults rise slender young -shoots, tipped with bunches of brilliant green. The -pure white sand is bound together by a kind of convolvulus, -whose large fleshy leaves and lilac-coloured -flowers creep along the loose soil. Where raised higher -above the ocean level, the coast is a wall of verdure. -Plots of bald old trees, bent by the regular breezes, -betray the positions of settlements which, generally -sheltered from sight, besprinkle the coast in a long -straggling line, like the suburbs of a populous city. Of -these, thirteen were counted in a space of three miles. -The monotony of green that clothes the soil is relieved -in places by dwarf earth-cliffs and scaurs of rufous hue—East -Africa is mostly a red land—and behind the foreground -of littoral or alluvial plain, at a distance varying -from three to five miles, rises a blue line of higher level, -conspicuous even from Zanzibar Island, the sandy raised -beach now the frontier of the wild men. To this sketch -add its accompaniment; by day, the plashing of the wave, -and the scream of the gull, with the perpetual hum -and buzz of insect life; and, after sunset, the deep, dead -silence of a tropical night, broken only by the roar of -the old bull-crocodile at his resting-time, the qua-qua -of the night-heron, and the shouts and shots of the -watchmen, who know from the grunts of the hippopotamus, -struggling up the bank, that he is quitting his -watery home to pay a visit to their fields.</p> - -<p>We were delayed ten days off Wale Point by various -preliminaries to departure. Said bin Salim, a half-caste -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-10">[10]</span> -Arab of Zanzibar, who, sorely against his will, was -ordered by the prince to act as Ras Kafilah, or caravan-guide, -had, after ceaseless and fruitless prayers for delay, -preceded us about a fortnight, for the purpose of collecting -porters. The timid little man, whose nerves were -shaken to weeping-point by the terrors of the way, and -by the fancy that, thus cooperating with the exploration, -he was incurring the hatred of his fellows, had “taken -the shilling,” in the shape of 500 dollars, advanced -from public funds by the consul, with a promise of an -ample reward in hard coin, and a gold watch, “si se -bene gesserit:” at the same time Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton -had warned me against trusting to a half-caste. -Accompanied by a Cutch Banyan of the Bhattia caste, -by name Ramji—of whom more anon—he had crossed -over, on the 1st of June, to the main-land, and had hired -a gang of porters, who, however, hearing that their -employer was a Muzungu, a “white man,” at once -dispersed, forgetting to return their hire. About one -hundred and seventy men were required; only thirty-six -were procurable. The large amount of carriage was -necessitated by the bulky and ponderous nature of -African specie, cotton cloth, brass-wire, and beads, of -which a total of seventy loads was expended in one -year and nine months. Moreover, under the impression -that “vert and venison” abounded in the interior, I -had provided ammunition for two years,—ten thousand -copper-caps of sizes, forty boxes, each restricted, for -convenience of porterage, to forty pounds, and containing -ball, grape, and shot, six fire-proof magazines, and -two small barrels of fine powder, weighing in total fifty -pounds, together with four ten-pound kegs of a coarser -kind for the escort,—in all, two hundred rounds for -each individual of the party. This supply was deemed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-11">[11]</span> -necessary on account of the immense loss to which ammunition -is subjected by theft and weather in these lands.</p> - -<p>On the second day after anchoring off Wale Point, a -native boat brought on board the Artémise Ladha Damha, -the collector of customs at Zanzibar, who, in compliment -to Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, of old his friend and -patron, had torn himself from his beloved occupations -to push the departure of the Expedition. Ladha, hearing -that the Arab merchants had hastened to secure -their gangs before corrupted by the more liberal offers -of the “white men,”—“Pagazi,” or porters, being at -that time scarce, because the caravans from the interior -had not yet reached the coast,—proposed to send forward -the thirty-six fellows hired by Said bin Salim, with orders -to await the arrival of their employer at Zungomero, in -the land of K’hutu, a point situated beyond the plundering -maritime tribes. These men carried goods to the -value of 654 dollars German crowns (each 4<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i>), and -they received for hire 124 dollars; rations, that is -to say, 1·50 lbs. of grain per diem, not included: they -preferred to travel with the escort of two slave-musketeers -rather than to incur the fancied danger of accompanying -a “Muzungu,” though followed by a well-armed -party. For the personal baggage and the outfit necessary -for crossing the maritime region, which reached by -waste the figure of 295 dollars, asses were proposed by -Ladha Damha: Zanzibar and the mainland harbours were -ransacked, and in a short time thirty animals, good, bad, -and indifferent, were fitted for the roads with large canvas -bags and vile Arab packsaddles, composed of damaged -gunny-bags stuffed with straw. It was necessary to -leave behind, till a full gang of porters could be engaged, -the greater part of the ammunition, the iron boat which -had proved so useful on the coasting voyage to Mombasah, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-12">[12]</span> -and the reserve supply of cloth, wire, and beads, -valued at 359 dollars. The Hindus promised faithfully -to forward these articles, and received 150 dollars for the -hire of twenty-two men, who were to start in ten days. -Nearly eleven months, however, elapsed before they appeared; -caravan after caravan came up from the coast, yet -the apathetic Bhattias pretended want of porters as the -cause of their delay. Evidently my preparations were -hurriedly made; strong reasons, however, urged me on,—delay, -even for a few days, might have been fatal.</p> - -<p>During the brief detention off Wale Point, the latitudes -and longitudes of the estuary of the Kingani, -the main artery of these regions, and of the little -settlements Bagamoyo and Kaole,—strongly against the -advice of Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, who declared that -by such proceedings the Expedition was going to the -bad,—were laid down by my companion: a novice -lunarian, he was assisted by Mohammed bin Khamis, who -had read his “Norie” in England. Various visits to the -hippopotamus haunts produced little beyond the damaging -of the corvette’s gig, which, suddenly uplifted from -the water upon the points of two tusks, showed two corresponding -holes in her bottom. Nor did I neglect to -land as often as possible at Kaole, the point of departure -upon the mainland, for the purpose of making sketches -with the pen and pencil, of urging on preparations, and -of gathering those items of “bazar-gup,” <i>i. e.</i>, tittle-tattle, -that represents the labours of the “fourth -estate” in Eastern lands.</p> - -<p>The little settlement of “Kaole”—an abbreviation of -Kaole Urembo, meaning literally, in the ancient dialect -of the coast, “to show beauty”—is the normal village-port -in these regions, which, from Mombasah southwards -to Kilwa, still ignore a town of masonry. You -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-13">[13]</span> -land, when the tide is out, upon half a mile of muddy -sand, and if a “swell,” you are carried by four men -upon the Kitanda—cot or cartel—which is slung -along the side of your craft. Arrived at the strip of -dry ground that marks the limit of the tide, you are let -down, and amidst the shouts of the men, the shrieks of the -women, and the naïve remarks of the juvenile population, -you ascend by a narrow footpath, worn through -the thick jungle and through the millet-fields which -press upon the tattered palisade, a dwarf steep bank, on -whose summit the settlement lies. Inside the fence are -a dozen pent-roofed houses, claret-chests of wattle and -dab, divided into three or more compartments by dwarf -party-walls of the same material: each messuage is jealously -separated from its neighbour by large enclosed -“compounds” or court-yards appropriated to the women -and children. The largest timber is that of -the mangrove; the flying thatch-roof, so raised that, -though windows are unknown, the interior enjoys -tolerable ventilation, is of jauli, or rude cocoa-plaits, -and under the long and projecting eaves, which rest -upon strong perpendiculars, are broad earth-benches, -divided by the entrance, and garnished with mats: -these form the shops and sitting-rooms of the settlement. -Some houses have a partial second story, like -a ship’s bunk, a planking supported by rafters, and -used as a store-closet or a dormitory. Around the -larger habitations cluster masses of hovels, and the -characteristic African haycock-huts. With closed doors -in still weather, these dens are unendurable to a -European; the people, however, fearing thieves and -wild beasts, never fail to barricade themselves within -at night. The only attempt at masonry in the settlement -is the “Gurayza,” or fort, a square of lime and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-14">[14]</span> -coralline, with store-rooms for the Banyan’s goods below, -and provided with a crenelled terrace for watchmen.</p> - -<p>In the “garrison-towns” the soldiers and their -families form the principal part of the population. -These men, who call themselves Baloch, are, with few -exceptions, originally from Mekran, and from the -lowlands about Guadel. Many of them have been born -and bred in Arabia. In former days their fathers -migrated from their starving homes to Maskat, in the -Arab dows which visited their ports, to buy horses, and -to collect little cargoes of wheat and salt. In Arabia -they were fakirs, sailors, porters, and day-labourers, -barbers, date-gleaners, asinegos, beggars, and thieves. -Sultan Bin Hamid, the father of the late Sayyid Said, -first conceived the bright idea of putting matchlocks -into their hands, and of dubbing them Askar, or soldiers, -as a slight upon his less docile compatriots. The son -of Sultan followed his sire’s plan, and succeeded in dividing -and ruling by means of the antipathy prevailing -between the more disciplinable mercenary and the -unruly Arab subject. The Baloch are, however, rather -hated than feared. They hang, say the Semites, their -benefits behind their backs, whilst they wear their grievances -in full view, woman-like, upon their breasts. Loud -in debate, and turbulent in demeanour, they are called -by the Arabs a “light folk,” and are compared to birds -fluttering and chirruping round a snake. Abject slaves -to the Great Gaster, they collect in swarms round a -slaughtered goat, and they will feast their eyes for -hours on the sight of a rice-bag. When in cantonment -on the island or the coast, they receive as pay from 2·50 -to 5 dollars per mensem; when in the field or on outpost -duty, a “batta” of 10 dollars;—a sensible system, -which never allows them to become, like the Indian -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-15">[15]</span> -Sepoy, independent. They are not averse to active -service, as, when so employed, they have full permission -to “pill and poll.” In camp they are commanded by a -jemadar, who, assisted by a “moollah,”—some wretch -who has retained, as sole traces of his better days, a -smattering of reading, writing, and arithmetic,—robs -them and his government with the recklessness of impunity. -Thus the jemadar, or C. O., who also dispenses -promotion, is a man having authority. Similarly our -colonels in India, by superior position and allowances, -commanded the respect of their men before centralisation, -falling upon the land like a pestilence, systematically -monopolised all power, and then rained blame upon those -who had lost it. These Baloch are a tame copy of the -Turkish Bashi Buzuk, or “mad-cap,” far inferior as desperadoes -to the Kurd and Arnaut. They live the -life of the Anglo-Indian soldier of the past generation, -drinking beer when they can “come by it,” smoking, -chatting, and arguing; the younger wrestle, shoot, and -exchange kit; and the silly babbling patriarchs, with -white beards and venerable brows, tell wondrous tales -of scenes long gone by, and describe to unbelieving ears -the ice and snow, the luscious fruits and the sweet waters -of the mountains and valleys of far Balochistan.</p> - -<p>The other items of the population are the Wamrima<a id="FNanchor2"></a><a href="#Footnote2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>—Western -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-16">[16]</span> -Negroids of a mixed Arab and African descent, -who fringe the shore in a thin line. These “coast-clans” -support themselves in idleness and comparative luxury, -by amicably plundering the down-caravans, and by large -plantations of cereals and vegetables, with which they, -or rather their slaves, supply the island of Zanzibar, -and even the shores of Arabia. The Wamrima are an -ill-conditioned race; they spend life in eating, drinking, -and smoking, drinking and dancing, visits, intrigue, and -low debauchery. They might grow cotton and coffee, -and dig copal to almost any extent; but whilst a pound -of grain remains in bin, no man will handle a hoe. -The feminine part of the community is greatly superior -in number to the masculine, and this leads to the usual -result: on a “Siku ku” or fête-day, the ladies of the -village, with yellow pigment over their faces and their -woolly heads, perform in their cups impromptu-dances -upon the open, enter a stranger’s house as if it were their -own, and call for something to drink, as if they had been -educated at Cremorne, or the Rue Cadet. The Wamrima -are ruled by Diwans, or headmen, locally called “Chomwi;” -these officials are subject to Zanzibar, and their -numbers are everywhere in inverse ratio to the importance -of the places. The Chomwi enjoys the privileges of -“dash,” fines and extortions; he has also certain marks -of distinction. For instance, he is authorised to wear -turbands and the wooden pattens called by the Arabs -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-17">[17]</span> -“kabkab;” he may also sit upon cots, chairs, and the -mkeka, a fine dyed mat; whereas a commoner venturing -upon such display would infallibly be mulcted in goats -or cattle. At the Ngoma Ku or great dance, which -celebrates every event in this land of revelry, only the -Chomwi may perform the morris with drawn sword -before the admiring multitude. A subject detected in -intrigue with the wife of a headman must, under penalty -of being sold, pay five slaves; the fine is reduced to one -head in the case of a plebeian. With this amount of dignity -the Diwan naturally expects to live, and to support his -family with the fat of the land, and without sweat of -brow. When times are hard, he organises a kidnapping -expedition against a weaker neighbour, and fills his -purse by selling the proceeds. But his income is derived -chiefly from the down-caravans bringing ivory and -slaves from Unyamwezi and the far interior. Though -rigidly forbidden by the Prince of Zanzibar to force -caravans to his particular port, he sends large armed -parties of his kinsmen and friends, his clients and serfs, -as far as 150 and 200 miles inland, where they act less -like touters than highwaymen. By every petty art of -mercantile diplomacy,—now by force, then by fraud, -by promises, or by bribes of cloth and sweetmeats,—they -induce the caravan to enter the village, when the -work of plunder begins. Out of each Frasilah (thirty-five -lbs. avoirdupois) of ivory, from eight to fourteen -dollars are claimed as duties to the Government of -Zanzibar; the headmen, then, demand six dollars as -their fee, under various technical names, plus one dollar -for “ugali” or porridge—the “manche,”—and one -dollar for the use of water—the “pour boire.” The -owner of the tusk is then handed over to the tender -mercies of the Banyan, from whom the Diwan has -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-18">[18]</span> -received a bribe, called his “rice”; and the crafty -Hindu buys for eighteen to twenty dollars an article -worth, at Zanzibar, fifty. If the barbarian be so unwise -as to prefer cash, being intellectually unfit to -discriminate between a cent and a dollar, he loses even -more than if he had taken in barter the coarse and -trashy articles provided for him by the trade. An adept -at distinguishing good from bad cloth and a cunning -connoisseur in beads of sorts, he has yet no choice: if -he reject what is worthless, he must return home with -his ivory and without an investment. Such is an outline -of the present system. It is nowhere the same in -its details; but everywhere the principle is one—the -loss is to the barbarian, and the profits are to the coast-clans, -the Wamrima and their headmen. Hence the -dislike to strangers and the infinite division into little -settlements, where people might be expected to prefer -the comfort and safety of large communities. The 10th -article of the commercial treaty, concluded on the 31st -May, 1839, between Her Majesty’s Government and -His Highness Sayyid Said of Muscat and Zanzibar, -secured to the possessors of the Mrima a monopoly in -the articles of ivory and gum-copal on that part of the -east coast of Africa from the port of Tangata (Mtangata), -situated in about 5<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>° S. lat. to the port of Quiloa -(Kilwa) lying in about 7° S. of the equator. It is not -improbable that the jealousy of European nations, each -fearing the ambitious designs of its neighbour, brought -about this invidious prohibitionist measure.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote2"></a><a href="#FNanchor2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> -It must be borne in mind, that, in the Kisawahili and its cognates, -the vowel <i>u</i> prefixed to a root, which, however, is never used without some -prefix, denotes, through a primary idea of causality, a country or region, as -Uzaramo, the region of Zaramo. Many names, however, exceptionally omit -this letter, as the Mrima, K’hutu, Fuga, and Karagwah. The liquid <i>m</i>, or, -before a vowel and an aspirated h, <i>mu</i>, to prevent hiatus, being probably a -synæresis of <i>M</i>tu, a man, denotes the individual, as Mzaramo, a man or -woman of Zaramo. When prefixed to the names of trees, as has been instanced, -it is evidently an abbreviation of Mti, a tree. The plural form of -<i>m</i> and <i>mu</i> is Wá, a contraction of Wátu, men, people; it is used to signify the -population, as Wamrima, the “coast-clans,” Wazaramo, the people or tribe of -Zaramo, and Wasawahíli (with a long accent upon the penultimate, consonant -with the spirit of the African language, and contrary to that of the -Arabic), the population of the Sawahil. Finally, the syllable <i>ki</i>—prefixed -to the theoretical root—denotes anything appertaining to a country, as the -terminating <i>ish</i> in the word English. It especially refers in popular usage -to language, as Kizaramo, the language of Zaramo; Kisawahíli, the language -of the Sawahil, originally called Ki-ngozi, from the district of Ngozi, on the -Ozi River. It has been deemed advisable to retain these terse and concise distinctions, -which, if abandoned, would necessitate a weary redundance of words.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>Besides the Baloch and the Wamrima, the settlements -usually contain a few of the “Washenzi” or barbarians -from the interior, who visit them to act as day-labourers, -and who sometimes, by evincing a little disrespect for -the difference between the “mine” and the “thine,” leave -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-19">[19]</span> -their heads to decorate tall poles at the entrance. The -Wazaramo tribe send, when there is no blood-feud, numbers -to Kaole, where they are known by their peculiar -headdress, a single or a double line of pips or dilberries -of ochre and grease surrounding the head. They regard -the stranger with a wild and childish stare, and whenever -I landed, they slunk away from me, for reasons -which will appear in the course of this narrative. The -list of floating population concludes with a few Banyans,—there -are about fifty in Kaole and its vicinity—a -race national as the English, who do their best to import -into Eastern Africa the cows and curries, the -customs and the costumes, of Western India.</p> - -<p>The first visit to Kaole opened up a vista of unexpected -difficulties. My escort had been allowed to leave -the Artémise, and their comrades in arms had talked -them half-crazy with fear. Zahri, a Baloch, who had -visited Unyamwezi, declared that nothing less than 100 -guards, 150 guns, and several cannon could enable them -to fight a way through the perils of the interior. Tulsi, -the Banyan, warned them that for three days they must -pass amongst savages, who sit on trees and discharge -poisoned arrows into the air with such dexterity that -they never fail to fall upon the travellers’ pate; he -strongly advised them therefore, under pain of death, to -avoid trees—no easy matter in a land all forest. Then -the principal Chomwi assured them that the chiefs of the -Wazaramo tribe had sent six several letters to the officials -of the coast forbidding the white man to enter their -country. Ladha Damha also obscurely hinted that the -Wazaramo might make caches of their provisions in the -jungle, and that the human stomach cannot march without -feeding. Divers dangers of the way were incidentally -thrown in: I learned for the first time that the Kargadan -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-20">[20]</span> -or rhinoceros kills 200 men, that armies of elephants -attack camps by night, and that the craven hyæna does -more damage than the Bengal tiger. In vain I objected -that guns with men behind them are better than cannon -backed by curs, that mortals can die but once, that the -Wazaramo are unable to write, that rations might be -carried where not purchaseable, and that powder and -ball have been known to conquer rhinoceroses, elephants, -and hyænas. A major force was against me.</p> - -<p>Presently the cause of intimidation crept into sight. -The Jemadar and the eight Baloch detached by His Highness -the Sayyid Majid of Zanzibar could not march -without a reinforcement of four others, afterwards -increased by a fifth in the person of an “Ustad,” a tailor-boy. -The garrison of Kaole having no employment, was -ready, with the prospect of the almighty dollar, to march -anywhere on this side of Jehannum. The perils of the -path rendered it absolutely necessary that we should -be escorted by a temporary guard of thirty-four men -and their Jemadar Yaruk: and they did not propose -to do the good deed gratis. Ramji, the Banyan clerk -of the customs at Zanzibar, had a number of slaves -whom he called his “sons;” they were “eating off -their heads” in idleness at Zanzibar. He favoured me -by letting out ten of these youths at the rate of thirty -dollars ahead for a period of six months: for the same -sum every man might have been purchased in the -market. When asses were proposed ass-men were necessary; -in the shortest space of time five were procured, -and their pay for the whole journey was fixed at thirty -dollars, about twice the sale-value of the article. I -cannot plead guilty to not having understood the manœuvre,—a -commercial speculation on the part of the -rascal Ramji. Yet at times,—need I say it?—it is -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-21">[21]</span> -good to appear a dupe. It is wise, when your enemies -determine you to be that manner of sable or ermine -contrivance into which ladies insert their fair hands, to -favour the hypothesis. I engaged the men, I paid the -men, and mentally I chronicled a vow that Ramji should -in the long run change places with me.</p> - -<p>Presently Mr. Frost with brow severe and official -manner, informed me that the state of Lieut.-Colonel -Hamerton’s health forbade a longer stay near the coast. -To this there was no reply: I contented myself with -remarking once more that morphia appeared a curious -cure for a confirmed liver complaint, and I made preparations -for landing at once. Mr. Frost replied that -the doses of morphia were very “little ones,”—an excuse -which, according to Capt. Marryat, has been urged under -somewhat dissimilar circumstances by the frail ancilla. -I confided to Mr. Frost’s care two MSS. addressed -through the Foreign Office, one to Mr. John Blackwood, -the other to Dr. Norton Shaw, of the Royal Geographical -Society. As the former arrived in safety, whilst the -latter,—a detailed report concerning the commerce and -capabilities of Zanzibar,—was lost, I cannot help suspecting -that it came somehow to an untimely end. Lieutenant-Colonel -Hamerton had repeatedly warned me -that by making inquiries into the details of profit I was -exciting the jealousy of the natives and the foreigners -of Zanzibar. According to him the mercantile community -was adopting the plan which had secured the foul -murder of M. Maizan: the Christians had time and opportunity -to alarm the Banyans, and the latter were -able to work upon the Wasawahíli population. These -short-sighted men dreaded that from throwing open the -country, competition might result: Oriental-like, thinking -only of the moment, of themselves, they could not -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-22">[22]</span> -perceive that the development of resources would benefit -all concerned in their exploitation. There were, however, -honourable exceptions, amongst whom I am bound -to mention M. Bérard, agent to Mess. Rabaud, frères, -of Marseilles, who by direction of his employers offered -me every manner of assistance; and the late M. Sam. -Masury, a Salem merchant, to whose gratuitous kindness -I was indebted for several necessaries when separated -from civilisation by one half of Africa. They -contrasted sharply with the rest of the community: -in the case of a certain young gentleman, Lieut.-Colonel -Hamerton was,—he informed me,—compelled -to threaten a personal chastisement, unless he ceased to -fill native ears with his malignant suspicions.</p> - -<p>The weary labour of verifying accounts and of writing -receipts duly concluded, I took a melancholy leave -of my warm-hearted friend Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, -upon whose form and features death was written in -legible characters. He gave me his last advice, to march -straight ahead despising “walnut and velvet-slipper -men,” who afford opinions, and conciliating the Arabs -as much as possible. Then he spoke of himself: he -looked forward to death with a feeling of delight, the -result of his religious convictions; he expressed a hope -that if I remained at Kaole, he might be buried at sea; -and he declared himself, in spite of my entreaties, determined -to remain near the coast until he heard of our -safe transit through the lands of the dreaded Wazaramo. -This courage was indeed sublime! Such examples are -not often met with amongst men!</p> - -<p>After this affecting farewell, I took leave of the Artémise -and landed definitively at Kaole. The Baloch -driving the asses were sent off to the first station on -the road westwards, headed by my companion, on the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-23">[23]</span> -same evening, lest a longer sojourn in the lands of semi-civilisation -should thoroughly demoralise them. The -Wanyamwezi porters, whose open faces and laughing -countenances strongly prepossessed me in their favour, -had already passed beyond their centre of attraction, -the coast. I spent that evening with Ladha Damha, inside -the gloomy Gurayza. He lectured me for the last -time upon my development of what the French cartomantiste -calls “la bosse de la témérité.” Might not the -Sahib be a great Sahib in his own land—Cutch or Guzerat? -Are there not other great Sahibs there, A—Sahib -and B—Sahib, for instance, who only kill pigs -and ignore the debtor and creditor side of an account in -Guzeratee?</p> - -<p>I must mention that, on the morning of the same -day, I was present at a conversation held by the Ladha, -the respectable collector of the customs, with the worthy -Ramji, his clerk. I had insisted upon their inserting -in the estimate of necessaries the sum required to purchase -a boat upon the “Sea of Ujiji.”</p> - -<p>“Will he ever reach it?” asked the respectable Ladha, -conveying his question through the medium of Cutchee, -a dialect of which, with the inconsequence of a Hindu, -he assumed me to be profoundly ignorant.</p> - -<p>“Of course not,” replied the worthy Ramji; “what -is he that he should pass through Ugogi?” (a province -about half way.)</p> - -<p>At the moment I respected their “sharm,” or shame, -a leading organ in the oriental brain, which apparently -has dwindled to inconsequential dimensions amongst -the nations of the West. But when Ladha was alone, I -took the opportunity to inform him that I still intended -to cross Ugogo, and to explore the “Sea of Ujiji.” I -ended by showing him that I was not unacquainted with -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-24">[24]</span> -Cutchee, and even able to distinguish between the debits -and the credits of his voluminous sheets.</p> - -<p>During the conversation, the loud wail of death rang -wildly through the grave-like stillness of night. “O -son, hope of my life! O brother, dearest of brothers! -O husband! O husband!” these were the cries which -reached our ears. We ran to the door of the Gurayza. -The only son of the venerable Diwan Ukwere, who had -been ascending the Kingani river on a mercantile expedition, -with five slaves, had been upset by a vengeful -hippopotamus, and, with two of his attendants, had lost -his life.</p> - -<p>“Insaf Karo! be honest!” said the Banyan, with -whom I had had many discussions as to whether it be -lawful or unlawful to shoot the hippopotamus, “and own -that this is the first calamity which you have brought -upon the country by your presence.”</p> - -<p>I could only reply with the common-places of polemics. -Why should Ladha, who by purchasing their -spoils encouraged the destruction of herds of elephants, -object to the death of a “creek-bull”? and why should -the man who would not kill the “creek-bull” be ready -to ruin a brother-man for making a better bargain -about its tusks? Ladha received these futile objections -contemptuously, as you would, right reverend father, -were I to suggest that you, primate and spiritual peer, -are not exactly following in the footsteps of certain -paupers whom you fondly deem to have been your prototypes,—your -exemplars.</p> - -<p>When Ladha left, my spirits went with him. In -the solitude and the silence of the dark Gurayza, I -felt myself the plaything of misfortune. At Cairo -I had received from the East India House an order -to return to London, to appear as a witness on a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-25">[25]</span> -trial by court-martial then pending. The missive -was, as usual, so ineptly worded, that I did not think -proper to throw overboard the Royal Geographical Society—to -whom my services had been made over—by -obeying it: at the same time I well knew what the consequences -would be. Before leaving Egypt, an interview -with the Count d’Escayrac de Lauture, had afforded me -an opportunity of inspecting an expedition thoroughly -well organised by His Highness Said Pacha, of military -predilections, and the contrast between an Egyptian and -an English exploration impressed me unpleasantly. -Arrived at Aden, I had enlisted the services of an old -and valued friend, Dr. Steinhaeuser, civil surgeon at that -station: a sound scholar, a good naturalist, a skilful -practitioner, endowed, moreover, with even more inestimable -personal qualities, his presence would have -been valuable in a land of sickness, skirmishes, and -sporting adventures, where the people are ever impressed -with the name of “medicine-man,” and in a virgin field -promising subjects of scientific interest. Yet though recommended -for the work by his Excellency the Governor -of Bombay, Dr. Steinhaeuser had been incapacitated by -sickness from accompanying me: I had thus with me a -companion and not a friend, with whom I was “strangers -yet.” The Persian war had prevented the fitting-out of -a surveying vessel, ordered by the Court of Directors -to act as a base of operations upon the African coast; no -disposable officer of the Indian navy was to be found at -the Presidency; and though I heard in Leadenhall Street -of an “Observatory Sergeant” competent to conduct the -necessary astronomical and meteorological observations, -in the desert halls of the great Bungalow at Colaba -only a few lank Hindus met my sight. Nor was this -all. His Highness the late Sayyid Said, that estimable -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-26">[26]</span> -ally of the English nation, had for many years repeatedly -made the most public-spirited offers to his friend -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton. He was more than once -upon the point of applying for officers selected to map -the caravan routes of Eastern Africa, and he professed -himself willing to assist them with men, money, and the -weight of his widely extended influence. This excellent -prince had died forty days before the Expedition arrived -at Zanzibar. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, also, whose extraordinary -personal qualities enabled him to perform -anything but impossibilities amongst the Arabs, was -compelled by rapidly failing health, during my stay at -Zanzibar, to lead a recluse life, which favoured the plans -of my opponents. Finally, as Indian experience taught -me, I was entering the unknown land at the fatal season, -when the shrinking of the waters after the wet monsoon -would render it a hotbed of malaria.</p> - -<p>The hurry of departure, also, had caused a necessary -neglect of certain small precautions, which, taken in -time, save much after trouble. I should have shunned -to have laid down limits of space and time for the Expedition, -whereas my friend and adviser had specified -the “Sea of Ujiji.” I intended to have drawn out -every agreement in an official form, registered at the -Consulate, and specifying all particulars concerning rations -and presents for the escort, their ammunition, and -their right of sporting—that is to say, of scaring the -game before it could be shot—their reward for services, -and their punishments for ill conduct. Lieut.-Colonel -Hamerton’s state of health, however, rendered him totally -unfit for the excitement of business; and, without -his assistance, a good result was not to be expected from -measures so unfamiliar, and therefore so unpalatable, to -the people whom they most concerned.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-27">[27]</span></p> - -<p>Excuse, amiable reader, this lengthy and egotistical -preface to a volume of adventure. Do not think that -I would invert the moral of the Frog-fable, by showing -that what is death to you, may become fun to me. As we -are to be companions—not to say friends—for an hour -or two, I must put you in possession of certain facts, -trivial in themselves, and all unworthy of record, yet -so far valuable, that they may enable us to understand -each other. <i>Au reste</i>, to quote the ballad so much admired -by the Authoress of “Our <span class="nowrap">Village”:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“The Pindar of Wakefield is my style,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">And what I list I write;<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Whilom a clerk of Oxenford,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">But now—a banished wight.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-28">[28]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. II.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">ZANZIBAR AND THE MRIMA EXPLAINED.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The history of the word Zanzibar is curious. Its -Persian origin proves that the Iranians were in early -days a more maritime people than Vincent and other -writers imagine. Zanzibar, signifying Nigritia, or -Blackland, is clearly derived from the “Zang,” in Arabic -Zanj, a negro, and “bar,” a region. This Zangbar was -changed by the Arabs, who ignore in writing the hard -<i>g</i>, into Zanjíbár; they still, however, pronounce -Zangbar, and consider it synonymous with another -popular expression, “Mulk el Zunuj,” or “the Land of -the Blacks.” Thus the poet <span class="nowrap">sings,—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent0"><span class="fsize110">فسميت ملك الزنوج جميعها</span><br /></span> -</div> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“And it hath been called Land of the Blacks, all of it.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">Traces of the word may be found in the earliest -geographers. Ptolemy records a Zingis or Zingisa, -which, however, with his customary incorrectness, he -places north of the equator. According to Cosmas -Indicopleustes, the Indian Ocean beyond Barbaria is -called Zingium. “Sinus Barbaricus” seems to have -been amongst the Romans the name of the belt of -low land afterwards known as “Zanzibar,” and it was -inhabited by a race of Anthropophagi, possibly the -fathers of the present “Wadoe” tribe. In more modern -times the land of the Zunuj has been mentioned by a -host of authors, El Novayri and others.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Illoi-3"> -<img src="images/i_illo051.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">A TOWN ON THE MRIMA.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-29">[29]</span></p> - -<p>The limits of Zanzibar,—a word indiscriminately -applied in former times to the coast, the island, and -even to the principal town,—are variously laid down -by geographers. Usually it is made to extend from -Cape Delgado, in S. lat. 10° 41′ to the equator, or -more strictly to S. lat. 0° 15′, at the mouth of the -Vumbo, or the Webbe Ganana, which appears in our maps -under the deceptive corruptions “Juba” and “Govind,” -from the Somali “Gob,” a junction, and “Gob-wen,” a -large junction. Mr. Cooley (Inner Africa Laid Open, -p. 111) corrects the great error of the Portuguese -historian, de Barros, who has made the embouchure -of the Obi—in Somali Webbe, meaning any river,—the -demarcation line between “Ajan” on the north, and -“Zanguebar” in the south, and has placed the mouth -of that stream in 9° N. lat., which would extend Zanzibar -almost to Cape Guardafui. Asiatic authors, -according to M. Guillain, (Documents sur l’Histoire, -&c. de l’Afrique Orientale. Première partie, p. 213) -vary in opinion concerning the extent of the “land -of the Zunuj” and its limits; some, as El Masudi, make -it contain the whole country, including Sofala, between -the embouchure of the Juba River (S. lat. -0° 15′) and Cape Corrientes (S. lat. 23° 48′): others, -like El Idrisi and Ibn Said, separate from it Sofala. -In local and modern usage the word Zanjibar is generally -confined to the chief town upon the island, the latter -being called by Arabs, as well as by the Negroids, -Kisiwa, “insula,” in opposition to the Barr el Moli, a -barbarised Semitic term for the continent.</p> - -<p>As usual throughout these lands, where comprehensive -geographical names are no longer required, -there is no modern general word for East Africa -south of the equator. The term “Sawahil,” or “the -shores,” in present parlance is confined to the strip of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-30">[30]</span> -coast beyond the half-Somali country, called from its various -ports,—Lamu, Brava, and Patta,—Barr el Banadir, -or Harbour-land. The “Sawahil” extend southwards to -Mombasah, below which the coast suddenly falling flat, -is known as Mrima or the Hill, and its people as -Wamrima, the “hill-men.” It is limited on the south -by the delta of the Rufiji River, whose races are -termed Watu wa Rufiji, Rufiji clans, or more shortly, -Warufiji.</p> - -<p>The country properly called the Mrima has no history -beyond its name, whilst the towns immediately to the -north and south of it,—Mombasah and Kilwa,—have -filled many a long and stirring page. The Arab -geographers preceding the Portuguese conquest mention -only five settlements on the coast between Makdishu -(Magadoxo) and Kilwa, namely, Lamu, Brava, Marka, -Malindi (Melinda), and Mombasah. In Captain Owen’s -charts, between Pangani and the parallel of Mafiyah -(Monfia Island) not a name appears.</p> - -<p>The fringe of Moslem Negroids inhabiting this part -of the East African coast is called by the Arabs Ahl -Maraim, and by themselves Wamrima, in opposition to -the heathen of the interior. These are designated in -mass the Washenzi—conquered or servile—properly -the name of a Helot race in the hills of Usumbara, but -extended by strangers to all the inner races. The -Wasawahili, or people of the Sawahil, Mulattos originally -African, but semiticised, like the Moplahs of Malabar, -by Arab blood, are in these days confined to the lands -lying northwards of Mombasah, to the island of Zanzibar, -and to the regions about Kilwa.</p> - -<p>The Mrima is peopled by two distantly connected -families, the half-caste Arabs and the Coast-Clans. The -former are generally of Bayazi or Khariji persuasion; -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-31">[31]</span> -the latter follow the school of el Shafei; both, though -the most imperfect of Moslems, are fanatical enough to -be dangerous. They own a nominal allegiance to the -suzerain of Zanzibar, yet they are autonomous and -free-spoken as Bedouins, when removed a few miles -from the coast, and they have a rooted aversion to the -officials of the local government, whom they consider -their personal enemies. Between them and the pure -Arabs of Oman, who often traverse, but who now never -settle upon the Mrima, there is a repugnance increased -by commercial jealousy; they resent the presence of these -strangers as an intrusion, and they lose no opportunity -of thwarting and discouraging them from travelling into -the interior. Like their ancestors, they dislike Europeans -personally, and especially fear the Beni Nar, or -Sons of Fire,—the English—“hot as the Ingrez,” is in -these lands a proverb. In their many Riwayat, Hadisi, -and Ngoma—tales, traditions, and songs—they predict -the eventual conquest of the country that has once felt -the white man’s foot.</p> - -<p>The half-caste Arab is degenerate in body and mind; -the third generation becomes as truly negroid as the -inner heathen. Even Creoles of pure blood, born upon -the island and the coast of Zanzibar, lose the high nervous -temperament that characterises their ancestors, and -become, like Banyans, pulpy and lymphatic. These -mestiços, appearing in the land of their grandsires, have -incurred the risk of being sold as slaves. The peculiarity -of their physiognomy is the fine Semitic development -of the upper face, including the nose and nostrils, whilst -the jaw is prognathous, the lips are tumid and everted, -and the chin is weak and retreating. The cranium is -somewhat rounded, and it wants the length of the Negroid’s -skull. Idle and dissolute, though intelligent -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-32">[32]</span> -and cunning, the coast-Arab has little education. He -is sent at the age of seven to school, where in two or -three years he accomplishes the Khitmah, or perlection -of the Koran, and he learns to write a note in an antiquated -character, somewhat more imperfect than the -Cufic. This he applies to the Kisawahili, and as nothing -can be less fitted for the Semitic tongues than the Arabic -syllabarium, so admirably adapted to its proper sphere, -his compositions require the deciphering of an expert. -A few prayers and hymns conclude the list of his acquirements. -His mother-tongue knows no books except -short treatises on Bao, or geomancy, and specimens of -African proverbial wisdom. He then begins life by -aiding his father in the shop or plantation, and by giving -himself up to intoxication and intrigue. After suffering -severely from his excesses—in this climate no constitution -can bear up against over-indulgence long continued—at -the age of seventeen or eighteen, he takes unto -himself a wife. Estranged from the land of his forefathers, -he rarely visits Zanzibar, where the restraints -of semi-civilisation, the decencies of oriental society, and -the low estimation in which the black skin is held, weary -and irritate him. His point of honour seems to consist -chiefly in wearing publicly, in token of his Arab -descent, a turban and a long yellow shirt, called El -Dishdasheh.</p> - -<p>The Wamrima, or coast-clans, resemble even more -than the half-caste Arabs their congeners the Washenzi. -The pure Omani will not acknowledge them as kinsmen, -declaring the breed to be Aajam, or gentiles. They are -less educated than the higher race, and they are more -debauched, apathetic, dilatory, and inert; their favourite -life is one of sensual indolence. Like the Somal, they -appear to be unfitted by nature for intellectual labour; -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-33">[33]</span> -of the former people there is but one learned man, the -Shaykh Jami of Harar, and the Kazi Muhiyy-el-Din -of Zanzibar is the only literato amongst the Wasawahili. -Study, or indeed any tension of the mind, seems -to make these weak-brained races semi-idiotic. They -cannot answer Yes or No to the simplest question. If, -for example, a man be asked the place of his tribe, he -will point to a distance, though actually living amongst -them; or if questioned concerning some particular of -an event, he will detail everything but what is wanted. -In the earlier days of exploration, I have repeatedly -collected the diwans, and, after a careful investigation -and comparison of statements, have registered the names -and distances of the stages ahead. These men, though -dwelling upon the threshold of the regions which they described, -and being in the habit of traversing them every -year, yet could hardly state a single fact correctly; -sometimes they doubled, at other times they halved, -the distance; they seldom gave the same names, and they -almost always made a hysteron-proteron of the stations. -The reader may gather from this sample some idea of -the difficulties besetting those who would collect information -concerning Africa from the Africans. It would -not have happened had an Arab been consulted. I soon -resolved to doubt for the future all Wasawahili, Wamrima, -Washenzi, and slaves, and I found no reason for -regretting the resolution.</p> - -<p>The Wamrima are of darker complexion, and are -more African in appearance, than the coast Arabs. The -popular colour is a dull yellowish bronze. The dress is -a fez, or a Surat-cap; a loin-cloth, which among the -wealthy is generally an Arab check or an Indian print, with -a similar sheet thrown over the shoulders. Men seldom -appear in public without a spear, a sword, or a staff; -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-34">[34]</span> -and priding themselves upon the possession of umbrellas, -they may be seen rolling barrels, or otherwise working -upon the sands, under the luxurious shade. The women -wear a tobe, or long cloth, wrapped tightly round the body, -and extending from beneath the arms to the ankles; -it is a garb ungraceful as was the European “sacque” -of bygone days. It spoils the figure by depressing -instead of supporting the bosom, and it conceals none of -its deficiencies, especially the narrowness of the hips. -The Murungwana, or free-woman, is distinguished from -the slave-girl, when outside the house, by a cloth thrown -over the head. Like the women of the Bedouins and of -the Persian Iliyat, even the matrons of the Mrima go -abroad unmasked. Their favourite necklace is a string -of shark’s teeth. They distend the lobes of the ears to -a prodigious size, and decorate them with a rolled-up -strip of variously-dyed cocoa-leaf, a disk of wood, a plate -of chakazi or raw gum-copal, or, those failing, with a betel-nut -or with a few straws. The left wing of the nose is -also pierced to admit a pin of silver, brass, lead, or even -a bit of manioc-root. The hair, like the body, is copiously -anointed with cocoa-nut or sesamum oil. Some shave -the head wholly or partially across the brow and behind -the ears; others grow their locks to half or full-length, -which rarely exceeds a few inches. It is elaborately -dressed, either in double-rolls rising like bear’s ears on -both sides of the head, or divided into a number of -frizzly curls which expose lines of scalp, and give to the -head the appearance of a melon. They have also a propensity -for savage “accroche-cœurs,” which stand out -from the cheek bones, stiffly twisted like young porkers’ -tails. In early youth, when the short, soft, and -crisp hair resembles Astrachan wool, when the muscles -of the face are smoothly rounded, and when the skin has -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-35">[35]</span> -that life and texture, and the countenance has that -vivacity and amiability which belong only to the young, -many of the girls have a pretty piquancy, a little minois -chiffonné, a coquettishness, a natural grace, and a caressing -look, which might become by habit exceedingly prepossessing. -In later life, their charms assume that -peculiar solidity which is said to characterise the beauties -of Mullingar, and as a rule they are shockingly -ugly. The Castilian proverb says that the English -woman should be seen at the window, the French woman -on the promenade, and the Spanish woman everywhere;—the -African woman should be seen nowhere, or in the -dark. The children mostly appear in the graceful costume -of the Belvidere Apollo; not a few of them have, -to the European eye, that amusing prettiness which we -admire in pug-pups.</p> - -<p>The mode of life in the Mrima is simple. Men rise -early and repair to either the shop, the boat, or the -plantation,—more commonly they waste the morning -in passing from house to house “ku amkía,”—to salute -neighbours. They ignore “manners”: they enter -abruptly with or without the warning cry of “Hodi! -Hodi!” place their spears in the corner, and without invitation -squat and extend themselves upon the floor till -wearied with conversation they take “French leave.” -Life, to the European so real and earnest, is with -them a continued scene of drumming, dancing, and -drinking, of gossip, squabble, and intrigue. The favourite -inebrients are tembu or cocoa toddy, and mvinyo, -its distillation, pombe or millet-beer, opium, Bhang, and -sometimes foreign stimulants purchased at Zanzibar. -Their food is mostly ugali, the thick porridge of boiled -millet or maize flour, which represents the “staff of life” -in East Africa: they usually feed twice a day, in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-36">[36]</span> -morning and at night-fall. They employ the cocoa-nut -extensively: like the Arabs of Zanzibar, they boil their -rice in the thick juice of the rasped albumen kneaded -with water, and they make cakes of the pulp mixed -with the flour of various grains. This immoderate use -of the fruit which, according to the people, is highly refrigerant, -causes, it is said, rheumatic and other diseases. -A respectable man seen eating a bit of raw or undressed -cocoa-nut would be derided by his fellows. They chew -tobacco with lime, like the Arabs, who, under the influence -of Wahhabi tenets, look upon the pipe as impure, and -they rarely smoke it like the Washenzi.</p> - -<p>The Wamrima as well as the Wasawahili are distinguished -by two national peculiarities of character. -The first is a cautiousness bordering upon cowardice, -derived from their wild African blood; the second -is an unusual development of cunning and deceitfulness, -which partially results from the grafting of -the semi-civilised Semite upon the Hamite. The -Arabs, who are fond of fanciful etymology, facetiously -derive the race-name “Msawahili” from “Sawwá -hílah,”<a id="FNanchor3"></a><a href="#Footnote3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> <i>he played a trick</i>, -and the people boast of it, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-37">[37]</span> -saying, “are we not Wasawahili?” that is “artful -dodgers.” Supersubtle and systematic liars, they deceive -when duller men would tell the truth, the lie -direct is no insult, and the offensive word “muongo!” -(liar) enters largely into every dialogue. They lie like -Africans, objectlessly, needlessly, when sure of speedy -detection, when fact would be more profitable than falsehood; -they have not discovered with the civilised knave, -that “honesty is the best policy;” they lie till their fiction -becomes subjectively fact. With them the lie is -no mental exertion, no exercise of ingenuity, no concealment, -nor mere perversion of the truth: it is apparently -a local instinctive peculiarity in the complicated -madness of poor human nature. The most solemn and -religious oaths are with them empty words; they breathe -an atmosphere of falsehood, manœuvre, and contrivance, -wasting about the mere nothings of life—upon a pound -of grain or a yard of cloth—ingenuity of iniquity enough -to win and keep a crown. And they are treacherous as -false; with them the salt has no signification, and gratitude -is unknown even by name.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote3"></a><a href="#FNanchor3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> -Dr. Krapf, in the Preface to his “Outlines of the Kisuahelí Language,” -deduces the national name from Síwá, ’a hílah, which would mean exactly -the reverse of astute—“without guile.” He has made other curious linguistic -errors: he translates, for instance, the “Quilimancy” River—the -ancient name for the Ozi or Dana—“water from the mountain,” after a -Germanic or Indo-European fashion, whereas, in the Zangian languages, the -compound word would, if admissible, signify “a mountain of water.” It is -curious that the learned and accurate Mr. Cooley, who has charged Dr. -Krapf with “puerile etymologies,” should have fallen into precisely the -same error. In the “Geography of N’yassi,” p. 19, “Mazingia” is rendered -the “road or land along the water,” but Májí Njíá, if the elision of -the possessive affix ya be allowed in prose as in poetry—Májí Njíá for -Májí ya Njíá—would mean only the “water of the road.” As a specimen -of Dr. Krapf’s discoveries in philology the following may suffice. In his -vocabulary of the Engutuk Eloikob or Kikuafi dialect, he derives -Olbitir, a <i>pig</i>, from the Arabic El Batrah, a <i>young ass</i>, or from El Basir, a -<i>sharp-seeing dog</i>!</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>Though partially Arabised, the Wamrima, as well as -the Wasawahili, retain many habits and customs derived -from the most degraded of the Washenzi savagery. -Like the Wazegura heathen of Eastern Africa, and the -Bangala of the Kasanji (Cassange) Valley, in the West, -the uncle sells his nephews and nieces by an indefeasible -vested right, with which even the parents cannot interfere. -The voice of society even justifies this abomination. -“What!” exclaim the people, “is a man to want when -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-38">[38]</span> -his brothers and sisters have children?” He is thus encouraged -in doing, on the slightest pretext, that of which -the heathen rarely approve, except to save themselves -from starvation. At the same time the Wamrima, holding -the unchastity of woman as a tenet of belief, consider -the sister’s son—the “surer side”—the heir, in -preference to the son. They have many superstitions, -and before all undertakings they consult a pagan Mganga -or medicine-man. If the K’hunguru or crow caws from -the house-top, a guest is coming; if a certain black bird -cries “chee! chee!” in front of a caravan, the porters -will turn back, saying that there is blood on the road, -and they will remain four or five days till the “chika! -chika!” of the partridge beats the “General.” An even -number of wayfarers met in early morning is a good -omen, but an odd number, or the bark of the Mbweha—the -fox—before the march, portends misfortune. Strong -minds of course take advantage of these and a thousand -other follies of belief, and when there is not, as in civilised -countries, a counteracting influence of scepticism, -the mental organisation of the people becomes a mass of -superstitious absurdities.</p> - -<p>The chief industry of the Mrima, namely the plundering -of caravans, has already been alluded to; it will -here be described with somewhat more of detail. The -industrious and commercial nations near Kilwa and the -southern regions delay but a few days on the coast; the -Wanyamwezi, on the line now to be described, will linger -there from three to six months, enjoying the dear delights -of comparative civilisation. Many old campaigners -have so far overcome their barbarous horror of water -travelling, which has been increased by tales of shipwreck -and drowning, as to take boat and carry their ivory to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-39">[39]</span> -the more profitable market in this land of Zanzibar, -where the Wanyamwezi occupy their own quarter. -Arrived within two marches of the coast-town, the head -of the caravan calls a halt till the presents promised by -an escort of touters have arrived and have been approved -of. He then delays as long as possible, to live gratis upon -those with whom he proposes to deal. After a time, the -caravan enters in stately procession, a preliminary to the -usual routine of commercial operations. Having settled -the exorbitant claims of the village headmen and the -charges of the Zanzibar Government, which are usually -levied in duplicate by the local authorities, the barbarian -has recourse to the Indian Banyan. Bargains are usually -concluded at night: to a civilised man the work -would be an impossible trial of patience. A lot of two -hundred tusks is rarely sold under four months. Each -article is laid upon the ground, and the purchaser begins -by placing handsome cloths, technically called “pillows,” -under the point and bamboo of the tusk, and by -covering its whole length with a third; these form the -first perquisites of the seller. After a few days, during -which rice and ghee, sugar and sweetmeats, must be -freely supplied, commences the chaffering for the price. -The Banyan becomes excited at the ridiculous demand -of his client, screams like a woman, pushes him out of -doors, and receives a return of similar treatment with -interest. He takes advantage of his knowledge that the -African in making a bargain is never satisfied with the -first offer, however liberal; he begins with a quarter of -the worth, then he raises it to one-half, and when the -barbarian still hesitates he throws in some flashy article -which turns the scale. Any attempt at a tariff would be -contemptuously rejected by both parties. The African -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-40">[40]</span> -delights in bargaining, and the Indian having brighter -wits relies upon them for a profit, which the establishment -of fair prices would curtail. It were in vain to -attempt any alteration in this style of doing “business;” -however despicable it may appear in the London market, -it is a time-honoured institution in East Africa.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-41">[41]</span></p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Illoi-7"> -<img src="images/i_illo065.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">The Wazaramo Tribe.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. III.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">TRANSIT OF THE VALLEY OF THE KINGANI AND THE MGETA -RIVERS.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">It was a gallant sight to see the Baloch, as with trailed -matchlocks, and in bravery of shield, sword, and dagger, -they hurried in Indian file out of the Kaole cantonments, -following their blood-red flag and their high-featured, -snowy-bearded chief, the “Shaib Mohammed,”—old -Mohammed. The band, “like worms,” as they -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-42">[42]</span> -expressed its numbers, which amounted to nearly a -hundred, about one-third of the venerable Jemadar’s -command, was marching forth to bid us farewell, in -token of respect, at Mgude or Kuingani, “the cocoa-plantation -near the sea.” It is a little settlement, distant -an hour and a half’s walk from Kaole: hither my -companion had preceded me, and hence we were to -make our second departure. Accompanied by Said bin -Salim, Valentine my Goanese servant, three Baloch, -and two slaves, I followed in the wake of the main -body, bringing up the rear of the baggage on three -Unyamwezi asses bought that morning at the custom-house. -The animals had been laden with difficulty: -their kicking and plunging, rearing and pawing, had -prevented the nice adjustment of their packs, and the -wretched pads, which want of time had compelled me -to take, instead of panels or pack-saddles, loosely girthed -with rotten coir rope, could not support a heap of -luggage weighing at least 200 lbs. per load. On the road -they rushed against one another; they bolted, they -shied, and they threw their impediments with such -persistence, that my servant could not help exclaiming, -“Unká nám gadha”—“Their name <i>is</i> jackass.” At last, -as the sun neared the salt sea, one of these half-wild -brutes suddenly sank, girth-deep, in a patch of boggy -mire, and the three Baloch, my companions, at once -ran away, leaving us to extricate it as best we could. -This little event had a peculiar significancy to one -about to command a party composed principally of -asses and Baloch.</p> - -<p>The excitement of finding myself on new ground, -and the peculiarities of the scenery, somewhat diverted -melancholy forebodings. Issuing from the little palisade -of Kaole, the path winds in a south-westerly direction -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-43">[43]</span> -over a sandy soil, thick with thorns and bush, which in -places project across the way. Thence ascending a -wave of ground where cocoas and the wild arrow-root -flourish, it looks down upon park land like that described -by travellers in Kaffraria, a fair expanse of -sand veiled with humus, here and there growing rice, -with mangoes and other tall trees, regularly disposed -as if by the hand of man. Finally, after crossing a -muddy grass-grown swamp, and a sandy bottom full -of water when rain has been heavy, the path, passing -through luxuriant cultivation, enters Kuingani. Such -is the “nakl,” or preparatory-stage of Arab travellers, -an invariable first departure, where porters who find -their load too heavy, or travellers who suspect that -they are too light, can return to Kaole and re-form.</p> - -<p>The little settlement of Kuingani is composed of a -few bee-hive huts, and a Bandani or wall-less thatched -roof—the village palaver-house—clustering orderless -round a cleared central space. Outside, cocoas, old and -dwarfed, mangoes almost wild, the papaw, the cotton -shrub, the perfumed Rayhan or Basil, and a sage-like -herb, the sugarcane, and the Hibiscus called by the -Goanese “Rosel,” vary the fields of rice, holcus, and -“Turiyan,” or the Cajanus Indicus. The vegetation is, -in fact, that of the Malabar coast; the habitations are -peculiarly African.</p> - -<p>The 28th of June was a halt at Kuingani, where I was -visited by Ramji and two brother Bhattias, Govindji -and Kesulji. The former was equipped, as least becomes -the Banyan man, with sword, dudgeon, and -assegai. But Ramji was a heaven-made soldier; he -had taken an active part in the military operations -directed by His Highness the late Sayyid Said against -the people of the mainland, and about thirteen years -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-44">[44]</span> -ago he defended Kaole against a host of Wazaramo, -numbering, it is said, 3,000 men, when, lacking balls, -he had loaded his honeycombed cannon and his rusty -matchlocks with pointed sticks. The Europeans of -Zanzibar called him “Rush,”—the murderer. His -fellow-countrymen declared him to be a “sharp practiser,” -who had made a reputation by spending other -people’s money, and I personally had proofs which did -not allow me to doubt his “savoir faire.”</p> - -<p>The nights at Kuingani were not pleasant. The air -was stifling, the mosquitoes buzzed without intermission, -and I had neglected to lay in “essence of pennyroyal” -against certain other plagues. On the second -evening, seeing by the hang-dog look of my Jemadar -that he was travailing in mind, I sent for a Mganga -or medicine-man, and having previously promised him -a Surat skull-cap for a good haul of prophecy, I collected -the Baloch to listen. The Mganga, a dark old man, of -superior rank, as the cloth round his head and his many -bead necklaces showed, presently reappeared with a -mat-bag containing the implements of his craft. After -taking his seat opposite to me he demanded his fee—here, -as elsewhere, to use the words with which Kleon -excited the bile of Tiresias,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Το μαντικον γαρ παν φιλαργυρον γενος;”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">—without which prediction would have been impossible. -When gratified he produced a little gourd -snuff-box and indulged himself with a solemn and -dignified pinch. He then drew forth a larger gourd -which contained the great medicine, upon which no -eye profane might gaze: the vessel, repeatedly shaken, -gave out a vulgar sound as if filled with pebbles and bits -of metal. Presently, placing the implement upon the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-45">[45]</span> -ground, Thaumaturges extracted from the mat-bag two -thick goat’s horns connected by a snake-skin, which -was decorated with bunches of curiously-shaped iron -bells; he held one in the left hand, and with the right -he caused the point of the other to perform sundry -gyrations, now directing it towards me, then towards -himself, then at the awe-struck bystanders, waving his -head, muttering, whispering, swaying his body to and -fro, and at times violently rattling the bells. When fully -primed with the spirit of prophecy, and connected by -ekstasis with the ghosts of the dead, he spake out pretty -much in the style of his brotherhood all the world -over. The journey was to be prosperous. There would -be much talking, but little killing.—Said bin Salim, in -chuckling state, confessed that he had heard the same -from a Mganga consulted at Zanzibar.—Before navigating -the sea of Ujiji a sheep or a parti-coloured hen -should be killed and thrown into the lake.—Successful -voyage.—Plenty of ivory and slaves.—Happy return -to wife and family.</p> - -<p>This good example of giving valuable advice was -not lost upon Mr. Rush Ramji. He insisted upon the -necessary precautions of making a strong kraal and of -posting sentinels every night; of wearing a kerchief -round the head after dark, and of avoiding the dangerous -air of dawn; of not eating strange food, and of -digging fresh wells, as the Wazaramo bewitch water for -travellers; of tethering the asses, of mending their ropes, -and of giving them three lbs. of grain per diem. Like -the medical directions given to the French troops proceeding -to China, the counsel was excellent, but impracticable.</p> - -<p>The evening concluded with a nautch. Yusuf, a -Baloch, produced a saringi—the Asiatic viol—and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-46">[46]</span> -collected all the scamps of the camp with a loud scraping. -Hulluk, the buffoon, acted dancing-girl to perfection. -After the normal pantomime, somewhat broadly expressed, -he did a little work in his own character; -standing on his head with a peculiar tremulousness -from the hips upwards, dislocating his person in a sitting -position, imitating the cry of a dog, cat, ape, -camel, and slave-girl, and finally reproducing me -with peculiar impudence before my face. I gave him -a dollar, when, true to his strain, he at once begged -another.</p> - -<p>All accounts and receipts being finally duly settled -with the Hindus, the last batch of three donkeys having -arrived, and the baggage having been laden with great -difficulty, I shook hands with old Mohammed and the -other dignitaries, and mounting my ass, gave orders for -immediate departure from Kuingani. This was not -effected without difficulty: every one and everything, -guide and escort, asses and slaves, seemed to join in raising -up fresh obstacles. Four <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> sped before we turned -out of the little settlement. Among other unpleasant -occurrences, Rahmat, a Baloch knave, who had formed -one of my escort to Fuga, levelled his long barrel, with -loud “Mimí ná pigá” (I am shooting him), when his -company was objected to. His Jemadar, Yaruk, seized -the old shooting-iron, which was probably unloaded, -and Rahmat, with sotto-voce snarls and growls, slunk -back to his kennel. A turbaned Negroid, who appeared -on the path, was asked to point out the way, -and, on his refusal, my bull-headed slave Mabruki -struck him on the face, when, to the consternation -of all parties, he declared himself a Diwan. The blow, -according to the Jemadar, would infallibly lead to -bloodshed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-47">[47]</span></p> - -<p>After a second short march of one hour and a half, -we pitched tents and obtained lodgings in Bomani, -“the Stockade,” a frontier village, but within the jurisdiction -of Bagamoyo. On this road, which ascended the -old sea-beach, patches of open forest and of high rank -grass divided cultivated clearings, where huts and -hamlets appeared, and where modest young maidens -beckoned us as we passed. The vegetation is here -partly African, partly Indian. The Mbuyu,—the baobab, -Adansonia digitata, monkey-bread, or calabash, the Mowana -of the southern and the Kuka of the northern -regions,—is of more markedly bulbous form than on the -coast, where the trunk is columnar; its heavy extremities, -depressed by the wind, give it the shape of a -lumpy umbrella shading the other wild growths. There -appear to be two varieties of this tree, similar in bole -but differing in foliage and in general appearance. The -normal Mbuyu has a long leaf, and the drooping outline -of the mass is convex; the rarer, observed only upon the -Usagara Mountains, has a small leaf, in colour like the -wild indigo, and the arms striking upwards assume the -appearance of a bowl. The lower bottoms, where the soil -is rich, grow the Mgude, also called Mparamusi (Taxus -elongatus, the Geel hout or Yellow-wood of the Cape?) a -perfect specimen of arboreal beauty. A tall tapering shaft, -without knot or break, straight and clean as a main-mast -forty or forty-five feet in height, and painted with a -tender greenish-yellow, is crowned with parachute-shaped -masses of vivid emerald foliage, whilst sometimes two and -even three pillars spring from the same root. The Mvumo,—a -distorted toddy tree, or Hyphæna allied to the Daum -palm of Egypt and Arabia,—has a trunk rough with -the drooping remnants of withered fronds, above which -it divides itself into branches resembling a system of Y’s. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-48">[48]</span> -Its oval fruit is of a yellowish red, and when full-sized it -is as large as a child’s head; it is eaten even unripe by -the people, and is said to be the favourite food of the -elephant. Pulpless, hard, and stringy, it has, when -thoroughly mature, a slight taste of gingerbread, hence -it is also called the Gingerbread-tree. The Ukhindu or -brab, of whose fronds mats and the grass kilts worn by -many of the tribes are made, flourishes throughout the -country, proving that the date-tree might be naturalised. -The Nyara or Chamærops humilis, the dwarf fan-palm -or palmetto of Southern Europe, abounds in this -maritime region. The other growths are the Mtogwe -and the Mbungo-bungo, varieties of the Nux vomica; -the finest are those growing in the vicinity of water. -The fruit contains within its hard rind, which, when -ripe, is orange-coloured, large pips, covered with a -yellow pulp of a grateful agro-dolce flavour, with a -suspicion of the mango. The people eat them with -impunity; the nuts, which contain the poisonous principle, -being too hard to be digested. The Mtunguja -(the Punneeria coagulans of Dr. Stocks), a solanaceous -plant called by the Indians Jangli bengan, or the wild -egg-plant, by the South Africans Toluane, and by the -Baloch Panír, or cheese, from the effect of the juice -in curdling milk, is here, as in Somaliland, a spontaneous -growth throughout the country. The same -may be said of the castor plant, which, in these regions, -is of two kinds. The Mbono (Jatropha curcas?) is the -Gumpal of Western India, a coarse variety, with a -large seed; its fetid oil, when burnt, fouls the lamp; -yet, in Africa, it is used by all classes as an unguent. -The Mbarika, or Palma Christi, the Irindi of India, is -employed in medicine. The natives extract the oil by -toasting and pounding the bean, adding a little hot -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-49">[49]</span> -water and skimming off what appears upon the surface. -The Arabs, more sensibly, prefer it “cold-drawn.” -These plants, allowed to grow unpruned, -often attain the height of eighteen to twenty feet.</p> - -<p>The 30th June was another forced halt, when I tasted -all the bitterness that can fall to the lot of those who -explore regions unvisited by their own colour. The -air of Bomani is stagnant, the sun fiery, and clouds of -mosquitoes make the nights miserable. Despite these -disadvantages, it is a favourite halting-place for up-caravans, -who defer to the last the evil days of long -travel and short rations. Though impressed with the -belief, that the true principle of exploration in these -lands is to push on as rapidly and to return as leisurely -as possible, I could not persuade the Baloch to move. -In Asia, two departures usually suffice; in Africa there -must be three,—the little start, the great start, and the -start κατ’ εξοχην. Some clamoured for tobacco—I gave -up my cavendish; others for guitar-strings—they were -silenced with beads; and all, born donkey-drivers, -complained loudly of the hardship and the indignity of -having to load and lead an ass. The guide, an influential -Mzaramo, promised by the Banyans Ladha and Ramji, -declined, after receiving twenty dollars, to accompany the -Expedition, and from his conduct the Baloch drew the -worst of presages. Much ill-will was shown by them -towards the European members of the Expedition. -“Kafir end, márá bandirá na khenen” (they are infidels -and must not carry our flag)—it was inscribed with the -usual Moslem formula—was spoken audibly enough in -their debased Mekrani to reach my ears: a faithful -promise to make a target of the first man who might -care to repeat the words, stopped that manner of -nuisance. Again the most childish reports flew about -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-50">[50]</span> -the camp, making these jet-bearded and fierce-eyed hen-hearts -faint with fears. Boxes had been prepared by -the barbarians for myself, and gates had been built -across the paths to arrest my party. P’hazi Mazungera, -M. Maizan’s murderer, had collected a host that numbered -thousands, and the Wazaramo were preparing a -levée <i>en masse</i>. To no purpose I quoted the Arab’s proverb—“the -son of fifty dieth not at thirty”; all <i>would</i> -be heroic victims marching to gory graves. Such reports -did real damage: the principal danger was the tremulous -alacrity with which the escort prepared upon each trivial -occasion for battle and murder, and sudden death. -At one place a squabble amongst the villagers kept the -Baloch squatting on their hams with lighted matches -from dusk till dawn. At another, a stray Fisi or Cynhyæna -entering the camp by night, caused a confusion -which only the deadliest onslaught could have justified. -A slave hired on the road, hearing these horrors, fled in -dismay; this, the first of desertions, was by no means -the last. The reader may realise the prevalence and -the extent of this African traveller’s bane by the fact -that during my journey to Ujiji there was not a soul in -the caravan, from Said bin Salim the Arab, to the veriest -pauper, that did not desert or attempt to desert.</p> - -<p>Here, at the first mention of slaves, I must explain to -the reader why we were accompanied by them, and -how the guide and escort contrived to purchase them. -All the serving-men in Zanzibar Island and on the coast -of E. Africa are serviles; the Kisawahili does not contain -even a word to express a hired domestic. For the evil -of slave-service there was no remedy: I therefore paid -them their wages and treated them as if they were freemen. -I had no power to prevent Said bin Salim, the -Baloch escort, and the “sons of Ramji,” purchasing -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-51">[51]</span> -whomever they pleased; all objections on my part were -overruled by, “we are allowed by our law to do so,” -and by declaring that they had the permission of the -consul. I was fain to content myself with seeing that -their slaves were well fed and not injured, and indeed I -had little trouble in so doing, as no man was foolish -enough to spoil his own property. I never neglected -to inform the wild people that Englishmen were pledged -to the suppression of slavery, and I invariably refused -all slaves offered as return presents.</p> - -<p>The departure from Bomani was effected on the 1st -of July with some trouble; it was like driving a herd of -wild cattle. At length, by ejecting skulkers from their -huts, by dint of promises and threats, of gentleness and -violence, of soft words and hard words, occasionally -backed by a smart application of the “Bakur”—the local -“cat”—by sitting in the sun, in fact by incessant worry -and fidget from 6 <span class="smcapall">A. M.</span> to 3 <span class="smcapall">P. M.</span>, the sluggish and unwieldy -body acquired some momentum. I had issued -a few marching orders for the better protection of the -baggage: two Baloch were told off for each donkey, one to -lead, the other to drive; in case of attack, those near the -head of the file, hearing the signal, three shots, were to -leave their animals and to hurry to the front, where my -companion marched, whilst the remainder rallied round -my flag in the rear: thus there would have been an -attacking party and a reserve, between which the asses -would have been safe. The only result of these fine -manœuvres was, that after a two-mile tramp through an -umbrageous forest in which caravans often lose the way, -and then down an easy descent across fertile fields, into -a broken valley, whose further side was thick with luxuriant -grass, tall shrubs, and majestic trees, a confused -straggling line,—a mere mob of soldiers, slaves, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-52">[52]</span> -asses,—arrived at the little village of Mkwaju la -Mvuani,—the “Tamarind in the rains.”</p> - -<p>The settlement is composed as usual of a few hovels -and a palaver-house, with a fine lime-tree, the place of -lounging and gossip, grain-husking, and mat-weaving, in -the open centre. Provisions and rough muddy water -being here plentiful, travellers often make a final halt -to polish their weapons, and to prepare their minds for -the Wazaramo. It is the last station under the jurisdiction -of Bagamoyo; from Changahera, the crafty old -Diwan, I obtained the services of his nephew Muinyi -Wazírá, who received seventeen dollars as an inducement -to travel in the interior, and was at once constituted linguist -and general assistant to Said bin Salim. The day -passed as usual, a snake was killed, and a gun-shot heard -in the distance supplied conversation for some hours. -The “sons of Ramji” carefully lost half a dozen of -the axes, bill-hooks, and dibbles, with which they had -been supplied, fearing lest they might be called upon to -build the Síwá or Bomá, the loose thorn-fence with which -the halting-place ought to be surrounded before the -night, and 7 <span class="smcapall">P. M.</span> had passed before I could persuade the -Baloch to catch, tether, and count the asses. One of -the escort, Ismail, was attacked with dysentery and -required to be mounted, although we were obliged by -the want of carriage to wend our way on foot. During -the last night, Said bin Salim had taken charge of three -Wanguru porters, who, freshly trapped by Said el Hazrami, -had been chained <i>pro tempore</i> to prevent desertion. -The Arab boasted that he was a bad sleeper, but bad -sleepers are worse watchers, because when they do sleep -they sleep in earnest. The men were placed for the -night in Said’s tent, surrounded by his five slaves, yet they -stole his gun, and carrying off an axe and sundry bill-hooks, -disappeared in the jungle. The watchful Said, after -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-53">[53]</span> -receiving many congratulations on his good fortune—fugitive -slaves sometimes draw their knives across the -master’s throat or insert the points into his eyes—sent -off his own attendants to recover the fugitives. In the -jungle, however, search was of scant avail: the Wanguru -feared that if caught by the Baloch, they would lose their -ears; three days would enable them to reach their own -country; and their only risk was that if trapped by the -Washenzi before their irons—a valuable capture to the -captors—could be removed, they might again be sold to -some travelling trader. As the day wore on, Said’s face -assumed a deplorable expression: his slaves had not appeared, -and though several of them were muwallid or -born in his father’s house, and one was after a fashion -his brother-in-law, he sorely dreaded that they also had -deserted. He was proportionably delighted when in the -dead of the night, entering Mkwaju la Mvuani, they -reported ill-success; and though I could little afford the -loss, I was glad to get rid of this chained and surly gang.</p> - -<p>On the next day we began loading for the third and -final departure, before dawn, and at 7.30 <span class="smcapall">A. M.</span> were -on the dew-dripping way. Beyond the settlement a -patch of jungle led to cultivated grounds belonging -to the villagers, whose scattered and unfenced abodes -were partially concealed by dense clumps of trees. -The road then sweeping parallel with the river plain, -which runs from N.W. to S.E., crossed several swamps, -black muddy bottoms covered with tall thick rushes -and pea-green paddy, and the heavily laden asses sunk -knee-deep into the soft soil. Red copalliferous sand -clothed the higher levels. On the wayside appeared -for the first time the Khambi or substantial kraals, -which evidence unsafe travelling and the unwillingness -of caravans to bivouac in the villages. In this region -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-54">[54]</span> -they assumed the form of round huts and long sheds or -boothies of straw or grass supported by a framework -of rough sticks firmly planted in the ground and lashed -together with bark-strips. The whole was surrounded -with a deep circle of thorns which—the entrance or -entrances being carefully closed at nightfall, not to reopen -until dawn—formed a complete defence against -bare feet and naked legs. About half-way a junction -of the Mbuamaji road was reached, and the path became -somewhat broader and less rough. Passing on the -right, a hilly district, called Dunda or “the Hill,” the -road fell from the ancient sea-beach into the alluvial -valley of the Kinganí River; presently rising again, it -entered the settlement of Nzasa, a name interpreted -“level ground.”</p> - -<p>Nzasa is the first district of independent Uzaramo. -My men proceeded to occupy the Bandani, in the centre -of the hamlet, when Said bin Salim, discovering with the -sharp eye of fear a large drum, planted in readiness for -the war-signal or the dance-signal, hurried about till -he had turned all hands out of the village into a -clump of trees hard by, a propitious place for surprise -and ambuscade. Here I was visited by three P’hazi or -headmen, Kizaya, Tumba Ihere or the “poison gourd,” -and Kombe la Simba or the “lion’s hide.” They came -to ascertain whether I was bound on peaceful errand or—as -the number of our guns suggested—I was marching -to revenge the murder of my “brother” Muzungu. -Assured of our unwarlike intentions, they told me that -I must halt on the morrow and send forward a message -to the next chief. As this plan invariably loses three -days,—the first being a <i>dies non</i>, the second being expended -in dispensing exoteric information to all the -lieges squatting in solemn conclave, whilst on the third -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-55">[55]</span> -the real message is privily whispered into the chieftain’s -ear,—I replied through Said that I could not be bound -by their rules, but was ready to pay for their infraction. -During the debate upon this fascinating proposal for -breaking the law, Yusuf, one of the most turbulent -of the Baloch, drew his sword upon an old woman -because she refused to give up a basket of grain. She -rushed, with the face of a black Medusa, into the -assembly, and provoked not very peaceable remarks -concerning the peaceful nature of our intentions. When -the excitement was allayed, the principal P’hazi began to -ask what had brought the white man into their country, -and in a breath to predict the loss of their gains and -commerce, their land and liberty. “I am old,” pathetically -quoth the P’hazi, “and my beard is grey, yet I -have never beheld such a calamity as this!” “These -men,” replied Said, “neither buy nor sell; they do not -inquire into price, nor do they covet profit. Moreover,” -he pursued, “what have ye to lose? The -Arabs take your best, the Wasawahili your second best, -and your trifling tribute is reduced to a yoke of -bullocks, a few clothes, or half a dozen hoes.” An -extravagant present—at that time ignorance of the -country compelled me to intrust such matters to the -honesty of Said bin Salim—opened the headmen’s -hearts: they privily termed me Murungwana Sana, a -real free-man, the African equivalent for the English -“gentleman,” and they detached Kizaya to accompany -me as far as the western half of the Kingani Valley. -At 4 <span class="smcapall">P. M.</span> a loud drumming collected the women, -who began to perform a dance of ceremony with -peculiar vigour. A line of small, plump, chestnut-coloured -beings, with wild beady eyes, and a thatch of -clay-plastered hair, dressed in their loin-cloths, with a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-56">[56]</span> -profusion of white disks, bead necklaces, a little square -bib of beads called a t’hando, partially concealing the -upper bosom, with short coils of thick brass wire wound -so tightly round the wrists, the arms above the elbows, -and the fat ankles, that they seemed to have grown into -the flesh, and,—hideous perversion of taste!—with -ample bosoms tightly corded down, advanced and retired -in a convulsion of wriggle and contortion, whose fit -expression was a long discordant howl, which seemed to</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Embowel with outrageous noise the air.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">I threw them a few strings of green beads, which for -a moment interrupted the dance. One of these falling -to the ground, I was stooping to pick it up when Said -whispered hurriedly in my ear, “Bend not; they will -say ‘he will not bend even to take up beads!’”</p> - -<p>In the evening I walked down to the bed of the -Kingani river, which bisects a plain all green with -cultivation,—rice and holcus, sweet potato and tobacco,—and -pleasantly studded with huts and hamlets. The -width of the stream, which here runs over a broad -bed of sand, is about fifty yards; it is nowhere fordable, -as the ferry-boat belonging to each village proves, -and thus far it is navigable, though rendered dangerous -by the crocodiles and the hippopotami that house in -its waters. The colour is tawny verging upon red, -and the taste is soft and sweet, as if fed by rain. The -Kingani, like all streams in this part of the continent, -is full of fish, especially a dark-green and scaleless -variety (a Silurus?) called Kambari, and other local -names. This great “miller’s thumb” has fleshy cirri, -appears to be omnivorous, and tastes like animal mud. -The night was rendered uncomfortable to the Baloch -by the sound of distant drums, which suggested fighting -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-57">[57]</span> -as well as feasting, and by the uproar of the wild men, -who, when reconnoitred by the scouts, were found to -be shouting away the hippopotami.</p> - -<p>In the hurry and the confusion of loading on the -next morning one ass was left behind, and the packs -were so badly placed that the fatigue of marching was -almost doubled by their repeated falls. Whilst descending -the well-wooded river terrace, my portion of the -escort descried an imaginary white flag crossing the -grassy valley below. This is the sign of a Diwan’s expedition -or commando: it is unwisely allowed by the -Arabs, whose proper colours are a plain blood-red. -After marching a few miles over undulating ground, -open and parklike, and crossing rough and miry beds, -the path disclosed a view verging upon the pretty. By -the way side was planted the peculiarly African Mzimu -or Fetiss hut, a penthouse about a foot high, containing, -as votive offerings, ears of holcus or pombe-beer in a -broken gourd. There, too, the graves of the heathen -met the eye. In all other parts of East Africa a mouldering -skull, a scattered skeleton, or a few calcined bones, -the remains of wizards and witches dragged to the -stake, are the only visible signs of man’s mortality. The -Wazaramo tombs, especially in the cases of chiefs, imitate -those of the Wamrima. They are parallelograms, -seven feet by four, formed by a regular dwarf paling -that encloses a space cleared of grass, and planted with -two uprights to denote the position of head and feet. In -one of the long walls there is an apology for a door. -The corpse of the heathen is not made to front any -especial direction; moreover the centre of the oblong -has the hideous addition of a log carved by the unartistic -African into a face and a bust singularly resembling -those of a legless baboon, whilst a white rag tied -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-58">[58]</span> -turbanwise round the head serves for the inscription -“this is a man.” The Baloch took notice of such idolatrous -tendency by spitting and by pronouncing certain -national anathemas, which literally translated might -sound unpleasant in Europeans’ ears. The abomination -of iconism is avoided in the graves of Moslem travellers: -they are usually cleared ovals, with outlines of rough -stone and a strew of smooth pebbles, according to the -custom of the Wasawahili. Several stumps of wood -planted in the earth show that the corpse faces Mecca, -and, as amongst the Jinga of Western Africa, the fragments -of a china bowl or cup lying upon the ground -are sacred to the memory of the departed. In Zanzibar -Island, also, saucers, plates, and similar articles are mortared -into the tombstones.</p> - -<p>The number of these graves made the blackness of my -companions pale. They were hurrying forward with -sundry “la haul!” and with boding shakes of the head, -when suddenly an uproar in the van made them all -prepare for action. They did it characteristically by -beginning with begging for ranjak—priming powder. -Said bin Salim, much excited, sent forward his messmate -Muinyi Wazira to ascertain the cause of the -excitement. One Mviraru, the petty lord of a neighbouring -village, had barred the road with about a dozen -men, demanding “dash,” and insisting that Kizaya had -no right to lead on the party without halting to give -him the news. My companion, who was attended only -by “Bombay,” his gun-carrier, and a few Baloch, remarked -to the interferers that he had been franked -through the country by paying at Nzasa. To this they -obstinately objected. The Baloch began to light their -matches and to use hard words. A fight appeared -imminent. Presently, however, when the Wazaramo -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-59">[59]</span> -saw my flag rounding the hill-shoulder with a fresh -party, whose numbers were exaggerated by distance, -they gave way; and finally when Muinyi Wazira opened -upon them the invincible artillery of his tongue, they -fell back and stood off the road to gaze. The linguist -returned to the rear in great glee, blowing his finger -tips, as if they had been attached to a matchlock, and -otherwise deriding the overboiling valour of the Beloch, -who, not suspecting his purport, indulged in the wildest -outbreak of boasting, offering at once to take the whole -country and to convert me into its sultan. Towards -the end of the march we crossed a shallow, salt, bitter -rivulet, flowing cold and clear towards the Kingani -River. On the grassy plain below noble game—zebra -and koodoo—began to appear; whilst guinea-fowl and -partridge, quail, green-pigeon, and the cuculine bird, -called in India the Malabar-pheasant, became numerous. -A track of rich red copalliferous soil, wholly without -stone, and supporting black mould, miry during the -rains, and caked and cracked by the potent suns of -the hot season, led us to Kiranga-Ranga, the first dangerous -station in Uzaramo. It is the name of a hilly -district, with many little villages embosomed in trees, -overlooking the low cultivated bottoms where caravans -encamp in the vicinity of the wells.</p> - -<p>Before establishing themselves in the kraal at Kiranga-Ranga, -the two rival parties of Baloch,—the Prince’s -permanent escort and the temporary guard sent by Ladha -Damha from Kaole—being in a chronic state of irritability, -naturally quarrelled. With the noise of choughs -gathering to roost they vented their bile, till thirteen men -belonging to a certain Jemadar Mohammed suddenly -started up, and without a word of explanation set out on -their way home. According to Said bin Salim, the temporary -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-60">[60]</span> -guard had determined not to proceed beyond -Kiranga-Ranga, and this desertion was intended as a -preliminary to others by which the party would have lost -two-thirds of its strength. I at once summoned the -Jemadars, and wrote in their presence a letter reporting -the conduct of their men to the dreaded Balyuz, the -consul, who was supposed to be still anchored off Kaole. -Seeing the bastinado in prospect, the Jemadar Yaruk -shouldered his sabre, slung his shield over his arm, set -out in pursuit of the fugitives, and soon succeeded in -bringing them back. He was a good specimen of the true -Baloch mountaineer—a tall, gaunt, and large-boned -figure, with dark complexion deeply pitted by small-pox, -hard, high, and sun-burnt features of exceeding harshness; -an armoury in epitome was stuck in his belt, and -his hand seemed never to rest but upon a weapon.</p> - -<p>The 4th of July was a halt at Kiranga-Ranga. Two -asses had been lost, the back-sinews of a third had been -strained, and all the others had been so wearied by their -inordinate burdens, to which on the last march the meat -of a koodoo, equal in weight to a young bullock, had -been superadded, that a rest was deemed indispensable. -I took the opportunity of wandering over and of prospecting -the country. The scene was one of admirable -fertility; rice, maize, and manioc grew in the rankest -and richest crops, and the uncultivated lands bore the -Corindah bush (Carissa Carandas), the salsaparilla vine, -the small whitish-green mulberry (the Morus alba of -India), and the crimson flowers of the Rosel. In the -lower levels near the river rose the giants of the forest. -The Mparamusi shot up its tall head, whose bunchy -tresses rustled in the breeze when all below was still. The -stately Msufi, a Bombax or silk-cotton tree, showed as -many as four or five trunks, each two to three feet in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-61">[61]</span> -diameter, rising from the same roots; the long tapering -branches stood out stiffly at right angles from the bole; -and the leaves, instead of forming masses of foliage, were -sparsely scattered in small dense growth. The Msukulio, -unknown to the people of Zanzibar, was a pile of dark verdure, -which dwarfed the finest oaks and elms of an English -park. No traces of game appeared in the likeliest -of places; perhaps it preferred lurking in the tall gross -grass, which was not yet in a fit state to burn.</p> - -<p>At Kiranga-Ranga the weather began to be unpropitious. -The Mcho’o, the heavy showers which fall between -the Masika or vernal, and the Vuli or autumnal -rains, set in with regularity, and accompanied us during -the transit of the maritime plain. I therefore refused to -halt more than one day, although the P’hazi or chiefs of -the Wazaramo showed, by sending presents of goats and -grain, great civility—a civility purchased, however, -by Said bin Salim at the price of giving to each -man whatever he demanded; even women were never -allowed to leave the camp unpropitiated. I was not -permitted in this part to enter the villages, although the -Wazaramo do not usually exclude strangers who venture -upon their dangerous hospitality. Girls are appointed -to attend upon them, and in case of sickness or -accident happening to any one in the settlement, they -are severely interrogated concerning the morality of the -guest, and an unfavourable account of it leads to extortion -and violence. The Wazaramo, like the Wagogo, -and unlike the other East African tribes, are jealous of -their women; still “damages” will act, as they have -acted in other lands, as salve to wounded honour and -broken heart.</p> - -<p>On the 5th of July we set out betimes, and traversing -the fields around Kiranga-Ranga, struck through a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-62">[62]</span> -dense jungle, here rising above, there bending into the -river valley, to some stagnant pools which supply the -district with water. The station, reached in 3<sup>hrs</sup> 30′, -was called Tumba Ihere, after the headman, who -accompanied us. Here we saw cocos emerging from a -fetid vegetation, and for the last time the Mwembe or -mango, a richly foliaged but stunted tree which never -attains the magnificent dimensions observed at Zanzibar. -Several down-caravans were halted at Tumba Ihere; -the slaves brought from the interior were tied together -by their necks, and one obstinate deserter was so lashed -to a forked pole with the bifurcation under his chin, -that when once on the ground he could not rise without -assistance. These wretches scarcely appeared to like -the treatment; they were not, however, in bad condition. -The Wanyamwezi porters bathed in the pools and looked -at us without fear or shame. Our daily squabble did -not fail to occur. Riza, a Baloch, drew his dagger on one -of Said bin Salim’s “children,” and the child pointed his -Tower-musket at the Baloch; a furious hubbub arose; -the master, with his face livid and drawn like a cholera -patient’s, screamed shrilly as a woman, and the weapons -returned to their proper places bloodless as those -wielded by Bardolph, Nym, and ancient Pistol. My -companion began to suffer from the damp heat and the -reeking miasma; he felt that a fever was coming -on, and the fatigue of marching under these circumstances -prevented our mustering the party. The consequence -was, that an ass laden with rice disappeared,—it -had probably been led out of the road and unburdened -by the Baloch;—whilst axes, cords, and tethers could -nowhere be found when wanted.</p> - -<p>On the next morning we left Tumba Ihere, and -tramped over a red land through alternate strips of rich -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-63">[63]</span> -cultivation and tangled jungle, which presently opened -out into a forest where the light-barked Msandarusi, or -copal-tree, attains its fullest dimensions. This is one -of the richest “diggins,” and the roadsides are everywhere -pitted with pockets two or three feet deep by one -in diameter. Rain fell in huge drops, and the heaviness of -the ground caused frequent accidents to the asses’ loads. -About noon we entered the fine grain-fields that gird -the settlements of Muhogwe, one of the most dreaded -in dreaded Uzaramo. In our case, however, the only -peril was the levée <i>en masse</i> of the fair sex in the villages, -to stare, laugh, and wonder at the white men. “What -should you think of these whites as husbands?” asked -Muinyi Wazira of the crowd. “With such things on -their legs?—Sivyo!—not by any means!”—was the -unanimous reply, accompanied with peals of merriment.</p> - -<p>Beyond Muhogwe all was jungle and forest, tall trees -rising from red copalliferous sand, and shading bright -flowers, and blossoming shrubs. After crossing a low -mud overgrown with rush and tiger-grass, and a -watercourse dotted with black stagnant pools, we ascended -rising well-forested ground, and lastly debouched -upon the kraals of Muhonyera.</p> - -<p>The district of Muhonyera occupies the edge of the -plateau forming the southern terrace of the Kingani -River; and the elevated sea-beach is marked out by -lines of quartsoze pebbles running along the northern -slope of the hill upon which we encamped. Water is -found in seven or eight reedy holes in the valley below; -it acquires from decomposed vegetation an unnaturally -sweet and slimy taste. This part of the country, being -little inhabited by reason of its malarious climate, abounds -in wild animals. The guides speak of lions, and the cry -of the Fisi or Cynhyæna was frequently heard at night, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-64">[64]</span> -threatening destruction to the asses. The Fisi, the -Wuraba of the Somal, and the Wilde Honde of the -Cape, is the wolf of Africa, common throughout the -country, where it acts as scavenger. Though a large -and powerful variety, it seldom assaults man, except -when sleeping, and then it snatches a mouthful from -the face, causing a ghastlier disfigurement even than -the scalping of the bear. Three asses belonging to the -Expedition were destroyed by this beast; in all cases -they were attacked by night with a loud wrangling -shriek, and the piece of flesh was raggedly torn from -the hind quarter; after affording a live rump-steak, -they could not be driven like Bruce’s far-famed bullock. -These, however, were the animals brought from Zanzibar; -that of Unyamwezi, if not tied up, defends itself -successfully against its cowardly assailant with -teeth and heels, even as the zebra, worthy of Homeric -simile, has, it is said, kept the lion at bay. The woods -about Muhonyera contain large and small grey monkeys -with black faces; clinging to the trees they gaze for a -time at the passing caravan imperturbably, till curiosity -being satisfied, they slip down and bound away with -long plunging leaps, like a greyhound at play. The -view from the hill-side was suggestive. The dark green -plain of sombre monotony, with its overhanging strata -of mist-bank and dew-cloud, appeared in all the worst -colours of the Oude Tirhai and the Guzerat jungles. -At that season, when the moisture of the rainy monsoon -was like poison distilled by the frequent bursts of fiery -sunshine, it was a valley of death for unacclimatised -travellers. Far to the west, however, rose Kidunda, -“the hillock,” a dwarf cone breaking the blurred blue -line of jungle, and somewhat northward of it towered -a cloud-capped azure wall, the mountain-crags of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-65">[65]</span> -Duthumi, upon which the eye, long weary of low levels, -rested with a sensation of satisfaction.</p> - -<p>It was found necessary to halt a day at Muhonyera: -according to some authorities no provisions were procurable -for a week; others declared that there were villages -on the road, but were uncertain whether rations could -be purchased. Said bin Salim sent Ambari, a favourite -slave, back to buy grain at Muhogwe, whence he had hurried -us on in fear of the Wazaramo; and the youth, after -wasting a day, returned on the evening of the 2nd July -with about sixty lbs.,—a poor supply for eighty-eight -hungry bodies. This proceeding naturally affronted the -Baloch, who desired for themselves the perquisites proceeding -from the purchases. Two of their number, -Yusuf and Salih Mohammed, came to swear officially -on the part of their men that there was not an ounce of -grain in camp. Appearing credulous, I paid them a -visit about half an hour afterwards; all their shuffling -and sitting upon the bags could not conceal a store of -about 100 lbs. of fine white rice, whose quality,—the -Baloch had been rationed at Kaole with an inferior kind,—showed -whence it came.</p> - -<p>After repairing the “boma,” or fenced kraal,—it had -been burnt down, as often happens, by the last caravan of -Wanyamwezi,—I left my companion, who was prostrate -with fever, and went out, gun in hand, to inspect the -country, and to procure meat, that necessary having -fallen short. The good P’hazi, Tumba Ihere, accompanied -me, and after return he received an ample -present for his services, and departed. The Baloch employed -themselves in cleaning their rusty matchlock-barrels -with a bit of kopra,—dried cocoa-nut meat,—in -weaving for themselves sandals, like the spartelle of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-66">[66]</span> -Pyrenees, with green palmetto-leaves; in preparing -calabash fibre for fatilah or gun-matches, and in twisting -cords for the asses. The best material is supplied by an -aloetic plant, the Hig or Haskul of Somaliland, here -called by the Arabs Bag, and by the natives Mukonge. -The Mananazi, or pine-apple, grows wild as far as three -marches from the coast, but its fibrous qualities are -unknown to the people. Ismail, the invalid Baloch, was -the worse for remedies; and two other men gave signs -of breaking down.</p> - -<p>During the first week, creeping along at a slug’s -pace, we heard the booming of the Artémise’s evening -gun, an assurance that refuge was at hand. Presently -these reports ceased. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, seized -with mortal sickness, had left Kaole suddenly, and he -died on board the Artémise on the 5th July, shortly -after his return to Zanzibar. The first letters announcing -the sad event were lost: with characteristic African -futility the porter despatched with the parcel from the -island, finding that the Expedition had passed on to the -mountains of Usagara, left his charge with a village -headman, and returned to whence he came. Easterns -still hold that</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Though it be honest, it is never good,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">To bring bad news.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">The report, spread by a travelling trader, was discussed -throughout the camp, but I was kept in ignorance of it -till Khudabakhsh, a Baloch, who had probably been -deputed by his brethren to ascertain what effect the -decease of the consul would have upon me, “hardened -his heart,” and took upon himself the task of communicating -the evil intelligence. I was uncertain what to -believe. Said bin Salim declared, when consulted, that -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-67">[67]</span> -he fully trusted in the truth of the report, but his -reasons were somewhat too Arabo-African to convince -me. He had found three pieces of scarlet broadcloth -damaged by rats,—an omen of death; and the colour -pointed out the nationality of the departed.</p> - -<p>The consul’s death might have proved fatal to the -Expedition, had its departure been delayed for a week. -The court of Zanzibar had required the stimulus of a -strong official letter from Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, before -it would consent, as requested by the Foreign -Office, “to procure a favourable reception on the coast, -and to ensure the protection of the chiefs of the country” -for the travellers. The Hindus, headed by Ladha -Damha, showed from first to last extreme unwillingness -to open up the rich regions of copal and ivory to -European eyes: they had been deceived by my silence -during the rainy season at Zanzibar into a belief that the -coast-fever had cooled my ardour for further adventure; -and their surprise at finding the contrary to be the -case was not of a pleasant nature. The home-sick -Baloch would have given their ears to return, they -would have turned back even when arrived within a -few marches from the Lake. Said bin Salim took the -first opportunity of suggesting the advisability of his -returning to Zanzibar for the purpose of completing -carriage. I positively refused him leave; it was a mere -pretext to ascertain whether His Highness the Sayyid -Majid had or had not, in consequence of our changed -position, altered his views.</p> - -<p>Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton’s death, however, was -mourned for other than merely selfish considerations. -His hospitality and kindness had indeed formed a well-omened -contrast with my unauspicious reception at -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-68">[68]</span> -Aden in 1855, before my departure to explore the -Eastern Horn of Africa, when the coldness of some, and -the active jealousy of other political authorities, thwarted -all my projects, and led to the tragic disaster at -Berberah.<a id="FNanchor4"></a><a href="#Footnote4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton had received two -strangers like sons, rather than like passing visitors. -During the intervals between the painful attacks of a -deadly disease, he had exerted himself to the utmost in -forwarding my views; in fact, he made my cause his -own. Though aware of his danger, he had refused to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-69">[69]</span> -quit, until compelled by approaching dissolution, the -post which he considered his duty to hold. He was a -loss to his country, an excellent linguist, a ripe oriental -scholar, and a valuable public servant of the old -Anglo-Indian school; he was a man whose influence -over Easterns, based upon their respect for his honour -and honesty, his gallantry and determination, knew no -bounds; and at heart a “sad good Christian,”—the -Heavens be his bed!</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote4"></a><a href="#FNanchor4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> -Capt. R. L. Playfair, Madras Artillery and First Assistant Pol. -Resident, Aden, in a selection from the records of the Bombay Government, -(No. 49, new series, Bombay, printed for Government, at the Education -Society Press, Byculla, 1859,) curiously misnamed “A History of Arabia -Felix or Yemen,” transports himself, in a “supplementary chapter,” to -East Africa, and thus records his impressions of what happened in the -“Somali <span class="nowrap">Country:”—</span></p> - -<p>1855.—“During the afternoon of the same day (the 18th of April), three -men visited the camp, <i>palpably as spies</i>, and as such, <i>the officers of the -Expedition were warned against them by their native attendants</i>. Heedless of -this warning, they retired to rest at night in the fullest confidence of -security, and without having taken any extra, <i>or even ordinary means</i>, to -guard against surprise.”</p> - -<p>The italics are my own: they designate mistatements unpardonable in an -individual whose official position enabled him to ascertain and to record the -truth. The three men were represented to me as spies, who came to ascertain -whether I was preparing to take the country for the Chief Shermarkay, -then hostile to their tribe, not as spies to spy out the weakness of my party. -I received no warning of personal danger. The “ordinary measures,” that -is to say, the posting of two sentinels in front and rear of the camp during -the night were taken, and I cannot blame myself because they ran away.</p> - -<p>I will not stop to inquire what must be the value of Capt. Playfair’s 193 -pages touching the history of Yemen, when in five lines there are three -distinct and wilful deviations from fact.</p> - -<p>I am well aware that after my departure from Aden, in 1855, an inquiry -was instituted during my absence, and without my knowledge, into the facts -of the disaster which occurred at Berberah. The “privileged communication” -was, I believe, in due course, privily forwarded to the Bombay Government, -and the only rebuke which this shuffling proceeding received was from -a gentleman holding a high and honourable position, who could not reconcile -himself to seeing a man’s character stabbed in the back.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>On the 8th of July we fell into what our Arab -called Wady el Maut and Dar el Jua—the Valley -of Death and the Home of Hunger—the malarious -river-plain of the Kingani River. My companion was -compelled by sickness to ride, and thus the asses, now -back-sore and weak with fatigue, suffered an addition of -weight, and a “son of Ramji” who was upon the point -of deserting openly required to be brought back at the -muzzle of the barrel. The path descending into a dense -thicket of spear grass, bush, and thorny trees based on -sand, with a few open and scattered plantations of holcus, -presently passed on the left Dunda Nguru, or “Seer-fish-hill,” -so called because a man laden with such provision -had there been murdered by the Wazaramo. After -2<sup>hrs</sup>. 45′ a ragged camping-kraal was found on the -tree-lined bank of a half-dry Fiumara, a tributary of -the neighbouring Kingani: the water was bad, and a -mortal smell of decay was emitted by the dark dank -ground. It was a wild day. From the black brumal -clouds driven before furious blasts pattered rain-drops -like musket-bullets, splashing the already saturated -ground. The tall stiff trees groaned and bent before -the gusts; the birds screamed as they were driven from -their perching places; the asses stood with heads depressed, -ears hung down, and shrinking tails turned -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-70">[70]</span> -towards the weather, and even the beasts of the wild -seemed to have taken refuge in their dens. Provisions -being unprocurable at “Sagesera,” the party did what -men on such occasions usually do—they ate double -quantities. I had ordered a fair distribution of the -rice that remained, consequently they cooked all day. -Yusuf, a Jemadar of inferior rank, whose friends characterised -him as “sweet of tongue but bitter at heart,” -vainly came to beg, on plea of hunger, dismissal for -himself and his party; and another Baloch, Wali, reported -as uselessly that a sore foot would prevent him -advancing.</p> - -<p>Despite our increasing weakness, we marched seven -hours on the 9th of July, over a plain wild but prodigiously -fertile, and varied by patches of field, jungle -and swamp, along the right bank of the Kingani river, -to another ragged old kraal, situated near a bend in -the bed. This day showed the ghost of an adventure. -At the “Makutaniro,” or junction of the Mbuamaji -trunk-road with the other lines branching from various -minor sea-ports, my companion, who was leisurely proceeding -with the advance guard, found his passage -barred by about fifty Wazaramo standing across the -path in a single line that extended to the travellers’ -right, whilst a reserve party squatted on the left -of the road. Their chief stepping to the front and -quietly removing the load from the foremost porter’s -head, signalled the strangers to halt. Prodigious excitement -of the Baloch, whose loud “Hai, hui!” and -nervous anxiety contrasted badly with the perfect <i>sang -froid</i> of the barbarians. Presently, Muinyi Wazira -coming up, addressed to the headman a few words, -promising cloth and beads, when this African modification -of the “pike” was opened, and the guard moved -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-71">[71]</span> -forward as before. As I passed, the Wazaramo stood -under a tree to gaze. I could not but admire the -athletic and statuesque figures of the young warriors -and their martial attitude, grasping in one hand their -full-sized bows, and in the other sheaths of grinded -arrows, whose black barbs and necks showed a fresh -layer of poison.</p> - -<p>At Tunda, “the fruit,” so called from its principal -want, after a night passed amidst the rank vegetation, -and within the malarious influence of the river, I arose -weak and depressed, with aching head, burning eyes, -and throbbing extremities. The new life, the alternations -of damp heat and wet cold, the useless fatigue of -walking, the sorry labour of waiting and re-loading the -asses, the exposure to sun and dew, and last, but not least, -of morbific influences, the wear and tear of mind at the -prospect of imminent failure, all were beginning to tell -heavily upon me. My companion had shaken off his -preliminary symptoms, but Said bin Salim, attacked -during the rainy gusty night by a severe Mkunguru or -seasoning-fever, begged hard for a halt at Tunda—only -for a day—only for half a day—only for an -hour. Even this was refused. I feared that Tunda -might prove fatal to us. Said bin Salim was mounted -upon an ass, which compelled us to a weary trudge of -two hours. The animals were laden with difficulty; -they had begun to show a predilection for lying down. -The footpath, crossing a deep nullah, spanned a pestilential -expanse of spear-grass, and a cane, called from -its appearance Gugu-mbua, or the wild sugar plant, -with huge calabashes and natural clearings in the -jungle, where large game appeared. After a short march -I saw the red flag of the vanguard stationary, and -turning a sharp corner found the caravan halted in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-72">[72]</span> -a little village, called from its headman Ba̓ńá Dirungá. -This was premature. I had ordered Muinyi Wazira -to advance on that morning to Dege la Mhora, the “large -jungle-bird,” the hamlet where M. Maizan’s blood was -shed. Said and Wazira had proposed that we should -pass it ere the dawn of the next day broke; the advice -was rejected, it was too dangerous a place to show fear. -The two diplomatists then bethought themselves of -another manœuvre, and led me to Ba̓ńá Dirungá, calling -it Dege la Mhora.</p> - -<p>We halted for a day at the little hamlet, embosomed -in dense grass and thicket. On our appearance the -villagers fled into the bush, their country’s strength; -but before nightfall they took heart of grace and -returned. The headman appeared to regard us with -fear, he could not comprehend why we carried so much -powder and ball. When reassured he offered to precede -us, and to inform the chief of the “large jungle-bird” -that our intentions had been misrepresented,—a -proposal which seemed to do much moral good to Said, -the Jemadar, and Wazira.</p> - -<p>On the eleventh day after leaving Kaole I was obliged -to mount by a weakness which scarcely allowed me -to stand. After about half an hour, through a comparatively -open country, we passed on the left a well-palisaded -village, belonging formerly to P’hazi Mazungera, -and now occupied by his son Hembe, or the -“wild buffalo’s horn.” Reports of our warlike intentions -had caused Hembe to “clear decks for action;” the -women had been sent from the village, and some score -of tall youths, archers and spearmen, admirably appointed, -lined the hedges, prepared, at the levelling of -the first matchlock, to let loose a flight of poisoned -arrows, which would certainly have dispersed the whole -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-73">[73]</span> -party. A halt was called by the trembling Said, who -at such conjunctures would cling like a woman to my -companion or to me. During the few minutes’ delay the -“sons of Ramji,” who were as pale as blacks could be, -allowed their asses to bump off half a dozen loads. Presently -Hembe, accompanied by a small guard, came forward, -and after a few words with Wazira and Said, the -donkey from which I had not dismounted was hurried -forward by the Baloch. Hembe followed us with a -stronger escort to Madege Madogo, the next station. -Illness served me as an excuse for not receiving him: -he obtained, however, from Said a letter to the headmen -of the coast, bespeaking their good offices for certain of -his slaves sent down to buy gunpowder.</p> - -<p>An account of the melancholy event which cut short -at Dege la Mhora the career of the first European that -ever penetrated beyond this portion of the coast may -here be inserted.</p> - -<p>M. Maizan, an <i>enseigne de vaisseau</i>, and a pupil of -the Polytechnic School, after a cruise in the seas off -Eastern Africa, conceived, about the end of 1843, the -project of exploring the lakes of the interior, and in -1844 his plans were approved of by his government. -Arrived at Bourbon, he was provided with a passage to -Zanzibar, in company with M. Broquant, the Consul de -France, newly appointed after the French Commercial -Treaty of the 21st Nov. 1844, on board the corvette Le -Berceau, Capitaine, afterwards Vice-Admiral, Romain -Desfossés, commanding. At the age of twenty-six M. -Maizan had amply qualified himself by study for travel, -and he was well provided with outfit and instruments. -His “kit,” however, was of a nature calculated to excite -savage cupidity, as was proved by the fact that his -murderer converted the gilt knob of a tent-pole into a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-74">[74]</span> -neck ornament, and tearing out the works of a gold -chronometer, made of it a tobacco-pouch. He has been -charged with imprudence in carrying too much luggage—a -<i>batterie de déjeuner</i>, a <i>batterie de dîner</i>, and similar -superfluities. But he had acted rightly, when bound -upon a journey through countries where outfit cannot -be renewed, in providing himself with all the materials -for comfort. On such explorations a veteran traveller -would always attempt to carry with him as much, not -as little as possible,—of course prepared to abandon all -things, and to reduce himself, whenever the necessity -might occur, to the “<i>simple besace du pélerin</i>.” It is -easy to throw away a superfluity, and the best preparation -for severe “roughing it,” is to enjoy ease and -comfort whilst attainable.</p> - -<p>But M. Maizan fell upon evil times at Zanzibar. Dark -innuendos concerning French ambition—that nation -being even suspected of a desire to establish itself in -force at Lamu, Pangani, and other places on the coast -of East Africa—filled Hindu and Hindi with fear for -their profits. These men influenced the inhabitants of -the island and the sea-coast, who probably procured the -co-operation of their wild brethren in the interior. -For the purpose of learning the Kisawahili, M. Maizan -delayed nearly eight months at Zanzibar, and, seeing a -French vessel entering the harbour, he left the place -precipitately, fearing a recall. Vainly also M. Broquant -had warned him against his principal confidant, -a noted swindler, and Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton had -cautioned him to no purpose that his glittering instruments -and his numerous boxes, all of which would be -supposed to contain dollars, were dangerous. He -visited the coast thrice before finally landing, thus -giving the Wasawahili time and opportunity to mature -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-75">[75]</span> -their plans. He lowered himself in the eyes of the -Arabs by “making brotherhood” with a native of Unyamwezi. -Finally, fearing Arab apathy and dilatoriness, -he hastened into the country without waiting for the -strong armed escort promised to him by His Highness -the late Sayyid Said.</p> - -<p>These were grave errors; but they were nothing in comparison -with that of trusting himself unarmed, after the -fatal habit of Europeans, and without followers, into the -hands of an African chief. How often has British India -had to deplore deaths “that would have dimmed a victory,” -caused by recklessness of danger or by the false -shame which prevents men in high position from wearing -weapons where they may be at any moment -required, lest the safe mediocrities around them should -deride such excess of cautiousness!</p> - -<p>After the rains of 1845 M. Maizan landed at Bagamoyo, -a little settlement opposite the island of Zanzibar. -There leaving the forty musketeers, his private guard, -he pressed on, contrary to the advice of his Mnyamwezi -brother, escorted only by Frédérique, a Madagascar or -Comoro man, and by a few followers, to visit P’hazi Mazungera, -the chief of the Wákámbá, a subtribe of the -Wazaramo, at his village of Dege la Mhora. He was -received with a treacherous cordiality, of which he appears -to have been completely the dupe. After some -days of the most friendly intercourse, during which the -villain’s plans were being matured, Mazungera, suddenly -sending for his guest, reproached him as he entered -the hut with giving away goods to other chiefs. -Presently working himself into a rage, the African exclaimed, -“Thou shalt die at this moment!” At the -signal a crowd of savages rushed in, bearing two long -poles. Frédérique was saved by the P’hazi’s wife: he -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-76">[76]</span> -cried to his master to run and touch her, in which case -he would have been under her protection; but the -traveller had probably lost presence of mind, and the -woman was removed. The unfortunate man’s arms -were then tightly bound to a pole lashed crosswise upon -another, to which his legs and head were secured by a -rope tied across the brow. In this state he was carried -out of the village to a calabash-tree, pointed out to me, -about fifty yards on the opposite side of the road. The -inhuman Mazungera first severed all his articulations, -whilst the war-song and the drum sounded notes of -triumph. Finding the sime, or double-edged knife, -somewhat blunt, he stopped, when in the act of cutting -his victim’s throat, to whet the edge, and, having finished -the bloody deed, he concluded with wrenching the head -from the body.</p> - -<p>Thus perished an amiable, talented, and highly educated -man, whose only fault was rashness—too often the -word for enterprise when Fortune withholds her smile. -The savage Mazungera was disappointed in his guest’s -death. The object of the torture was to discover, as the -Mganga had advised, the place of his treasures, whereas -the wretched man only groaned and implored forgiveness -of his sins, and called upon the names of those -friends whose advice he had neglected. The P’hazi then -attempted to decoy from Bagamoyo the forty musketeers -left with the outfit, but in this he failed. He then proceeded -to make capital of his foul deed. When Snay bin -Amir, a Maskat merchant,—of whom I shall have much -to say,—appeared with a large caravan at Dege la Mhora, -Mazungera demanded a new tribute for free passage; -and, as a threat, he displayed the knife with which he -had committed the murder. But Snay proved himself -a man not to be trifled with.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-77">[77]</span></p> - -<p>Frédérique returned to Zanzibar shortly after the -murder, and was examined by M. Broquant. An infamous -plot would probably have come to light had he -not fled from the fort where he was confined. Frédérique -disappeared mysteriously. He is said now to be living -at Marungu, on the Tanganyika Lake, under the Moslem -name of Muhammádí. His flight served for a pretext -to mischievous men that the prince was implicated in -the murder: they also spread a notoriously false report -that Mazungera, an independent chief, was a vassal of -the suzerain of Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>In 1846 the brig-of-war Le Ducoüedic, of the -naval division of Bourbon, M. Guillain, Capitaine de -Vaisseau, commanding, was charged, amongst other commercial -and political interests, with insisting upon severe -measures to punish the murderers. In vain His Highness -Sayyid Said protested that Mazungera was beyond his -reach; the fact of the robber-chief having been seen at -Mbuamaji on the coast after the murder was deemed conclusive -evidence to the contrary. At length the Sayyid -despatched up-country three or four hundred musketeers, -mercenaries, and slaves, under command of Juma Mfumbi, -the late, and Bori, the present, Diwan of Saadani. -The little troop marched some distance into the country, -when they were suddenly confronted by the Wazaramo, -commanded by Hembe, the son of Mazungera, who, -after skirmishing for a couple of days, fled wounded by -a matchlock-ball. The chief result of the expedition -was the capture of a luckless clansman who had beaten -the war-drum during the murder. He was at once -transferred to Zanzibar, and passed off by these transparent -African diplomatists as P’hazi Mazungera. For -nearly two years he was chained in front of the French -Consulate; after that time he was placed in the fort -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-78">[78]</span> -heavily ironed to a gun under a cadjan shed, where he -could hardly stand or lie down. The unhappy wretch -died about a year ago, and Zanzibar lost one of its lions.</p> - -<p>After the slaughter of M. Maizan the direct route -through Dege la Mhora was long closed, it is said, and -is still believed, by a “ghul,” a dragon or huge serpent, -who, of course, was supposed to be the demon-ghost of -the murdered man. The reader will rejoice to hear that -the miscreant Mazungera, who has evaded human, has -not escaped divine punishment. The miserable old man -is haunted by the P’hepo or spirit of the guest so foully -slain: the torments which he has brought upon himself -have driven him into a kind of exile; and his tribe, as -has been mentioned, has steadily declined from its former -position with even a greater decline in prospect. The -jealous national honour displayed by the French Government -on the occasion of M. Maizan’s murder has -begun to bear fruit.</p> - -<p>Its sensitiveness contrasts well with our proceedings -on similar occasions. Rahmat, the murderer of Captain -Milne, still wanders free over the hills in sight of Aden. -By punishing the treacherous slaughter of a servant of -Government, the price of provisions at the coal-hole of -the East would have been raised. Au Ali, the murderer -of Lieut. Stroyan, is still at large in the neighbourhood -of Berberah, when a few dollars would have -brought in his head. The burlesque of a blockade,—Capt. -Playfair, in a work previously characterised, has -officially mistermed it, to the astonishment of Aden, “a -rigid blockade,” a “severe punishment,” and so forth,—was -considered sufficient to chastise the Somal of Berberah -for their cowardly onslaught on strangers and guests; -and though the people offered an equivalent for the -public and private property destroyed by them, the spirit -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-79">[79]</span> -of Centralisation, by an exercise of its peculiar attributes, -omniscience and omnipresence, decided that the -indemnity, which in such cases is customary throughout -the East, must not be accepted, because—forsooth!—it -was not deserved by the officers. This is a new plan, a -system lately adopted by the nation once called “la plus -orgueilleuse et la plus perilleuse”—to win and preserve -respect in lands where prestige is its principal power. -The Arabs of Yemen have already learned from it to -characterise their invaders as Sahib Hilah,—a tricky, -peddling manner of folk. They—wiser men than -we—will not take upon themselves the pains and -penalties of subject-hood, without its sole counterweight, -the protection of their rulers, in cases where -protection is required.</p> - -<p>At Madege Madogo, the “little birds,” so called in -contradistinction to its western and neighbouring -district, Madege Makuba, the “great birds,” we -pitched tent under a large sycamore; and the Baloch -passed a night of alarms, fancying in every sound the -approach of a leopard, a hippopotamus, or a crocodile. -On the 13th July, we set out after dawn, and traversing -forest, jungle, and bush, chequered with mud and -morass, hard by the bending and densely-wooded line of -the Kingani River, reached in three hours’ march an unwholesome -camping-ground, called from a conspicuous -landmark Kidunda, the “little hill.” Here the scenery -is effective. The swift, yellow stream, about fifty yards -broad, sweeps under tall, stiff earth-works, ever green -with tangled vegetation and noble trees. The conical -huts of the cultivators are disposed in scattered patches -to guard their luxuriant crops, whilst on the northern -bank the woody hillock, and on the southern rising -ground, apparently the ancient river-terrace, affect the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-80">[80]</span> -sight agreeably after the evergreen monotony of the -river-plain. A petty chief, Mvirama, accompanied by -a small party of armed men, posted himself near the -cantonment, demanding rice, which was refused with -asperity. At this frontier station the Wazaramo, mixed -up with the tribes of Udoe, K’hutu, and Usagara, are no -longer dreaded.</p> - -<p>From Kidunda, the route led over sandy ground, -with lines and scatters of water-worn pebbles, descended -the precipitous inclines of sandstone, broken -into steps of slabs and flags, and crossed the Manyora, -a rough and rocky Fiumara, abounding in blocks of -snowy quartz, grey and pink syenites, erratic boulders -of the hornblende used as whetstones, and strata of a -rude sandstone conglomerate. Thence it spanned grass, -bush, and forest, close to the Kingani, and finally -leaving the stream on the right hand, it traversed -sandy soil, and, ascending a wave of ground, abutted -upon the Mgeta or rivulet, a large perennial influent, -which, rising in the mountains of Duthumi, drains the -head of the River-valley.</p> - -<p>This lower portion of the Mgeta’s bed was unfordable -after the heavy rains: other caravans, however, -had made a rude bridge of trees, felled on each side, -lashed with creepers, and jammed together by the force -of the current. The men perched upon the trunks and -boughs, tossed or handed to one another the loads and -packages, whilst the asses, pushed by force of arm down -the banks, were driven with sticks and stones across the -stream. Suddenly a louder cry than usual arose from -the mob; my double-barrelled elephant-gun found a -grave below the cold and swirling waters. The Goanese -Gaetano had the courage to plunge in; the depth was -about twelve feet; the sole was of roots and loose sand, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-81">[81]</span> -and the stream ran with considerable force. I bade farewell -to that gun;—by the bye it was the second accident -of the kind that had occurred to it;—the country people -cannot dive, and no one ventures to affront the <i>genius -loci</i>, the mamba or crocodile. I found consolation in -the thought that the Expedition had passed without -accident through the most dangerous part of the -journey. In 18 days, from the 27th of June, to the -14th of July, I had accomplished, despite sickness -and all manner of difficulties, a march of 118 indirect -statute miles, and had entered K’hutu, the safe rendezvous -of foreign merchants.</p> - -<p>Resuming our march on the 15th July, we entered -the “Doab,”<a id="FNanchor5"></a><a href="#Footnote5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> on the western bank of the Mgeta, -where a thick and tangled jungle, with luxuriant and -putrescent vegetation, is backed by low, grassy grounds, -frequently inundated. Presently, however, the dense -thicket opened out into a fine park country, peculiarly -rich in game, where the calabash and the giant trees of -the seaboard gave way to mimosas, gums, and stunted -thorns. Large gnus, whom the porters regard with a -wholesome awe, declaring that they are capable of -charging a caravan, pranced about, pawing the -ground, and shaking their formidable manes; hartebeest -and other antelopes clustered together on the -plain, or travelled in herds to slake their thirst at the -river. The homely cry of the partridge resounded from -the brake, and the guinea-fowls looked like large bluebells -upon the trees. Small land-crabs took refuge in -the pits and holes, which made the path a cause of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-82">[82]</span> -frequent accidents; whilst ants of various kinds, -crossing the road in close columns, attacked man and -beast ferociously, causing the caravan to break into a -halting, trotting hobble, ludicrous to behold. Whilst -crossing a sandy Fiumara, Abdullah, a Baloch, lodged -by accident four ounces of lead, the contents of my -second elephant-gun, in the head of an ass. After a -march of six hours we entered Kiruru, a small, ragged, -and muddy village of Wak’hutu, deep in a plantation of -holcus, whose tall, stiff canes nearly swept me from the -saddle. The weather was a succession of raw mist, -rain in torrents, and fiery sunbursts; the land appeared -rotten, and the jungle smelt of death. At Kiruru I -found a cottage, and enjoyed for the first time an atmosphere -of sweet warm smoke. My companion -remained in the reeking, miry tent, where he partially -laid the foundation of the fever which threatened his -life in the mountains of Usagara.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote5"></a><a href="#FNanchor5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> -This useful word, which means the land embraced by the bifurcation of -two streams, has no English equivalent. “Doab,” “Dhun” (Dhoon), -“Nullah,” and “Ghaut,” might be naturalised with advantage in our mother -tongue.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>Despite the danger of hyænas, leopards, and crocodiles -to an ass-caravan, we were delayed by the torrents of -rain and the depth of the mud for two days at Kiruru. -According to the people, the district derives its name -“palm leaves,” from a thirsty traveller, who, not -knowing that water was near, chewed the leaves of the -hyphæna-palm till he died. One of the Baloch proposed -a “Hammam,”—a primitive form of the “lamp-bath,” -practised in most parts of Central Asia,—as a -cure for fever: he placed me upon one of the dwarf -stools used by the people, and under the many abas or -hair-cloaks with which I was invested he introduced a -bit of pottery containing live coal and a little frankincense. -At Kiruru I engaged six porters to assist our -jaded animals as far as the next station. The headman -was civil, but the people sold their grain with difficulty.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-83">[83]</span></p> - -<p>On the 18th July we resumed our march over a tract -which caused sinking of the heart in men who expected -a long journey under similar circumstances. Near -Kiruru the thick grass and the humid vegetation, dripping -till midday with dew, rendered the black earth -greasy and slippery. The road became worse as we -advanced over deep thick mire interlaced with tree-roots -through a dense jungle and forest, chiefly of the distorted -hyphæna-palm, in places varied by the Mparamusi and -the gigantic Msukulío, over barrens of low mimosa, and -dreary savannahs cut by steep nullahs. In three places -we crossed bogs from 100 yards to a mile in length, and -admitting a man up to the knee; the porters plunged -through them like laden animals, and I was obliged to -be held upon the ass. This “Yegea Mud,” caused by -want of water-shed after rain, is sometimes neck-deep; it -never dries except when the moisture has been evaporated -by sun and wind during the middle of the Kaskazi -or N. E. monsoon. The only redeeming feature in the -view was a foreground of lovely hill, the highlands of -Dut’humi, plum-coloured in the distance and at times -gilt by a sudden outburst of sunshine. Towards the -end of the march, I forged ahead of the caravan, and -passing through numerous villages, surrounded by -holcus-fields, arrived at a settlement tenanted by Sayf -bin Salim, an Arab merchant, who afterwards proved to -be a notorious “mauvais sujet.” A Harisi from Birkah -in Oman, he was a tall thin-featured venerable-looking -man, whose old age had been hurried on by his constancy -to pombe-beer. A long residence in Unyamwezi had -enabled him to incur the hostility of his fellow-merchants, -especially one Salim bin Said el Sawwafi, who, with -other Arabs, persuaded Mpagamo, an African chief, to -seize upon Sayf, and after tying him up in full view of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-84">[84]</span> -the plundering and burning of his store-house, to drive -him out of the country. Retreating to Dut’humi, he -had again collected a small stock in trade, especially of -slaves, whom he chained and treated so severely that all -men predicted for him an evil end. “Msopora,” as he -was waggishly nicknamed by the Wanyamwezi, instantly -began to backbite Said bin Salim, whom he pronounced -utterly unfit to manage our affairs; I silenced him by -falling asleep upon a cartel placed under the cool eaves -of a hut. Presently staggered in my companion almost -too ill to speak; over-fatigue had prostrated his strength. -By slow degrees, and hardly able to walk, appeared the -Arab, the Baloch, the slaves and the asses, each and -every having been bogged in turn. On this occasion -Wazira had acted guide, and used to “bog-trotting,” -he had preferred the short cut to the cleaner road that -rounds the swamps.</p> - -<p>At Dut’humi we were detained nearly a week; the -malaria had brought on attacks of marsh fever, which -in my case lasted about 20 days; the paroxysms were -mild compared with the Indian or the Sindhian type, -yet, favoured by the atonic state of the constitution, they -thoroughly prostrated me. I had during the fever-fit, -and often for hours afterwards, a queer conviction of -divided identity, never ceasing to be two persons that -generally thwarted and opposed each other; the sleepless -nights brought with them horrid visions, animals of -grisliest form, hag-like women and men with heads protruding -from their breasts. My companion suffered -even more severely, he had a fainting-fit which strongly -resembled a sun-stroke, and which seemed permanently -to affect his brain. Said bin Salim was the convalescent -of the party; the two Goanese yielded themselves -wholly to maladies, brought on mainly by hard -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-85">[85]</span> -eating, and had they not been forced to rise, they would -probably never have risen again. Our sufferings were -increased by other causes than climate. The riding -asses having been given up for loads, we were compelled, -when premonitory symptoms suggested rest, to walk, -sometimes for many miles in a single heat, through sun -and rain, through mud and miasmatic putridities. -Even ass-riding caused over-fatigue. It by no means -deserves in these lands the reputation of an anile exercise, -as it does in Europe. Maître Aliboron in Africa -is stubborn, vicious and guilty of the four mortal sins -of the equine race, he shies and stumbles, he rears and -runs away: my companion has been thrown as often -as twice in two hours. The animals are addicted to -fidgetting, plunging and pirouetting when mounted, -they hog and buck till they burst their frail girths, they -seem to prefer holes and hollows, they rush about pig-like -when high winds blow, and they bolt under tree-shade -when the sun shines hot. They must be led, or, ever -preferring the worst ground, they disdain to follow the -path, and when difficulties arise the slave will surely drop -the halter, and get out of harm’s way. If a pace exceeding -two miles an hour be required, a second man must -follow and flog each of these perfect slugs during the -whole march. The roundness of their flanks, the shortness -of their backs, and their want of shoulder, combine -to make the meagre Arab packsaddle unsafe for anything -but a baboon or a boy, whilst the straightness and -the rigidity of their goat-like pasterns render the pace a -wearisome, tripping hobble. We had, it is true, Zanzibari -riding-asses, but the delicate animals soon chafed and -presently died; we were then reduced to the Koroma or -half-reclaimed beast of Wanyamwezi. The laden asses -gave us even more trouble. The slaves would not attend -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-86">[86]</span> -to the girthing and the balancing of parcels—the great -secret of donkey-loading—consequently the burdens -were thrown at every mud or broken ground: the -unwilling Baloch only grumbled, sat down and stared, -leaving their Jemadars with Said bin Salim and ourselves -to reload. My companion and I brought up the -rear by alternate days, and sometimes we did not arrive -before the afternoon at the camping ground. The ropes -and cords intended to secure the herd were regularly -stolen, that I might be forced to buy others: the animals -were never pounded for the night, and during our illness -none of the party took the trouble to number them. -Thus several beasts were lost, and the grounding of the -Expedition appeared imminent and permanent. The -result was a sensation of wretchedness, hard to describe; -every morning dawned upon me with a fresh load of -cares and troubles, and every evening reminded me as -it closed in, that another and a miserable morrow was to -dawn. But “in despair,” as the Arabs say, “are many -hopes;” though sorrow endured for the night—and -many were “white” with anxiety—we never relinquished -the determination to risk everything, ourselves included, -rather than to return unsuccessful.</p> - -<p>Dut’humi, one of the most fertile districts in K’hutu, -is a plain of black earth and sand, choked with vegetation -where not corrected by the axe. It is watered by -the perennial stream of the same name, which, rising -in the islands, adds its quotum to the waters of the -Mgazi, and eventually to the Mgeta and the Kingani -Rivers. In such places artificial irrigation is common, -the element being distributed over the fields by hollow -ridges. The mountains of Dut’humi form the northern -boundary of the plain. They appear to rise abruptly, -but they throw off southerly lower eminences, which -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-87">[87]</span> -diminish in elevation till confounded with the almost -horizontal surface of the champaign; the jagged broken -crests and peaks argue a primitive formation. Their -lay is to the N.N.W.; after four days’ journey, according -to the guides, they inosculate with the main chain -of the Usagara Mountains, and they are probably the -southern buttress of Ngu, or Nguru, the hill region -westward of Saadani. This chain is said to send forth -the Kingani River, which, gushing from a cave or fissure -in the eastern, is swollen to a large perennial stream by -feeders from the southern slopes, whilst the Mgeta flows -from the western face of the water-parting, and circles the -southern base. The cold temperature of these cloud-capped -and rainy crags, which never expose their outlines -except in the clearest weather, affects the plains; -by day bleak north-east and north-west gusts pour down -upon the sun-parched Dut’humi, and at night the thermometer -will sink to 70°, and even to 65° F. Water is -supposed to freeze upon the highlands, yet they are not -unhealthy; sheep, goats, and poultry abound; betel-pepper -grows there, according to the Arabs, and, as in -the lowlands, holcus and sesamum, manioc and sweet-potatoes -(Convolvulus batata), cucumbers, the turai -(Luffa acutangula), and beans, plantains, and sugar-cane, -are plentiful. The thick jungle at the base of the -hills shelters the elephant, the rhinoceros in considerable -numbers, the gnu, and the koodoo, which, however, can -rarely be found when the grass is high; a variety of the -ngole—a small Dendraspis—haunts the patriarchs of -the forest, and the chirrup of the mongoose, which the -people enjoy, as Europeans do the monotonous note of -the cricket, is heard in the brakes at eventide. This -part of the country, about six hours’ march northward -from Dut’humi, is called the Inland Magogoni; and it -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-88">[88]</span> -is traversed by the “Mdimu” nullah, which falls into -the Mgeta River. The fertile valleys in the lower and -southern folds are inhabited by the Wákumbáku(?),<a id="FNanchor6"></a><a href="#Footnote6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> -and by the Wásuop’hángá tribes; the higher elevations, -which apparently range from 3000 to 4000 feet, by the -Waruguru. They are compelled to fortify themselves -against the cold and the villanous races around them. -The plague of the land is now one Kisabengo, a Mzegura -of low origin, who, after conquering Ukami, a district -extending from the eastern flank of the Dut’humi hills -seawards, from its Moslem diwan, Ngozi, <i>alias</i> Kingaru, -has raised himself to the rank of a Shene Khambi, or -principal headman. Aided by the kidnapping Moslem -coast clans of Whinde, a small coast town opposite the -island of Zanzibar, and his fellow tribemen of Uzegura, -he has transferred by his frequent commandos almost -all the people of Ukámí, chiefly Wásuop’hángá and -Wárúgúrú, to the slave-market of Zanzibar, and, thus -compelled to push his depredations further west, he has -laid waste the lands even beyond the Mukondokwa river-valley. -The hill tribes, however, still receive strangers -hospitably into their villages. They have a place visited -even by distant Wazaramo pilgrims. It is described -as a cave where a P’hepo or the disembodied spirit of a -man, in fact a ghost, produces a terrible subterraneous -sound, called by the people Kurero or Bokero; it arises -probably from the flow of water underground. In a -pool in the cave women bathe for the blessing of issue, -and men sacrifice sheep and goats to obtain fruitful -seasons and success in war. These hill-races speak -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-89">[89]</span> -peculiar dialects, which, according to the guides, are -closely connected with Kik’hutu.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote6"></a><a href="#FNanchor6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> -This unsatisfactory figure of print will often occur in these pages. -Ignorance, error, and causeless falsehood, together with the grossest exaggeration, -deter the traveller from committing himself to any assertion which -he has not proved to his own satisfaction.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>Despite the bad name of Dut’humi as regards climate, -Arabs sometimes reside there for some months for the -purpose of purchasing slaves cheaply and to repair their -broken fortunes for a fresh trip to the interior. This -keeps up a perpetual feud amongst the chiefs of the -country, and scarcely a month passes without fields -being laid waste, villages burnt down, and the unhappy -cultivators being carried off to be sold.</p> - -<p>At Dut’humi a little expedition was sent against -Manda, a petty chief, who, despite the presence of the -Sayyid’s troops, had plundered a village and had kidnapped -five of the subjects of Mgota, his weaker neighbour. -I had the satisfaction of restoring the stolen -wretches to their hearths and homes, and two decrepid -old women that had been rescued from slavery thanked -me with tears of joy.</p> - -<p>This easy good deed done, I was able, though with -swimming head and trembling hands, to prepare accounts -and a brief report of proceedings for the Royal Geographical -Society. These, together with other papers, -especially an urgent request for medical comforts and -drugs, especially quinine and narcotics, addressed to -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, or, in case of accidents, to -M. Cochet, Consul de France, were entrusted to Jemadar -Yaruk, whom, moreover, I took the liberty of recommending -to the prince for the then vacant command -of the Bagamoyo garrison. The escort from Kaole, -reduced in number by three desertions, was dismissed. -All the volunteers had been clamouring to return, and -I could no longer afford to keep them. Besides the -two supplies of cloth, wire, and beads, which preceded, -and which were left to follow us, I had been provided -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-90">[90]</span> -by Ladha Damha with a stock of white and blue cottons, -some handsome articles of dress, 20,000 strings of white -and black, pink, blue, and green, red and brown porcelain-beads, -needles, and other articles of hardware, to -defray transit-charges through Uzarama. This provision, -valued at 295 dollars, should have carried us to -the end of the third month; it lasted about three weeks. -Said bin Salim, to whom it had been entrusted, had been -generous, through fear, to every half-naked barbarian -that chose to stretch forth the hand of beggary; moreover, -whilst too ill to superintend disbursements, he had -allowed his “children,” aided by the Baloch and the -“sons of Ramji,” to “loot” whatever they could seize -and secrete. Ladha Damha, unable to complete our -carriage, had hit upon the notable device of converting -eighteen pieces of American domestics into saddle-cloths -for the asses: the stuff was used at halts as bedding by -the Baloch and others; and,—a proof that much had -fallen into wrong hands,—the thirteen men composing -our permanent guard, increased the number of their -laden asses from two to five; moreover, for many weeks -afterwards, the “sons of Ramji” could afford to expend -four to five cloths upon a goat. On the 21st July the -escort from Kaole departed with a general discharge of -matchlocks. Their disappearance was hailed as a blessing; -they had pestered me for rations, and had begged -for asses till midnight. They were the refuse of their -service; they thought of, they dreamed of, nothing but -food; they would do no work; they were continually -attempting violence upon the timid Wak’hutu, and they -seemed resolved to make the name of Baloch equally -hateful and contemptible.</p> - -<p>I had been careful to bring from Zanzibar four hammocks, -which, slung to poles, formed the conveyance, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-91">[91]</span> -called by the Indians “manchil;” by the Portuguese -“manchila;” and in West Africa “tipoia.” Sayf bin -Salim agreed for the sum of ten dollars to hire his slaves -as porters for ourselves and our outfit. On the 24th -July, feeling strong enough to advance, we passed out of -the cultivation of Dut’humi. Crossing a steep and muddy -bed, knee-deep even in the dry season, we entered fields -under the outlying hillocks of the highlands. These low -cones, like similar formations in India, are not inhabited; -they are even more malarious than the plains, the surface -is rocky, and the woodage, not ceasing as in higher -elevations, extends from base to summit. Beyond the -cultivation the route plunges into a jungle, where the -European traveller realises every preconceived idea of -Africa’s aspect, at once hideous and grotesque. The -general appearance is a mingling of bush and forest, -which, contracting the horizon to a few yards, is equally -monotonous to the eye and palling to the imagination. -The black greasy ground, veiled with thick shrubbery, -supports in the more open spaces screens of tiger and -spear-grass, twelve and thirteen feet high, with every -blade a finger’s breadth; and the towering trees are -often clothed from root to twig with huge epiphytes, -forming heavy columns of densest verdure, and clustering -upon the tops in the semblance of enormous bird’s nests. -The foot-paths, in places “dead,”—as the natives say,—with -encroaching bush, are crossed by llianas, creepers -and climbers, thick as coir-cables, some connecting the -trees in a curved line, others stretched straight down the -trunks, others winding in all directions around their -supports, frequently crossing one another like network -and stunting the growth of even the vivacious calabash, -by coils like rope tightly encircling its neck. The earth, -ever rain-drenched, emits the odour of sulphuretted hydrogen, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-92">[92]</span> -and in some parts the traveller might fancy a -corpse to be hidden behind every bush. To this sad -picture of miasma the firmament is a fitting frame: a -wild sky, whose heavy purple nimbi, chased by raffales -and chilling gusts, dissolve in large-dropped showers; or -a dull, dark grey expanse, which lies like a pall over the -world. In the finer weather the atmosphere is pale and -sickly; its mists and vapours seem to concentrate the -rays of the oppressive “rain-sun.” The sensation -experienced at once explains the apathy and indolence, -the physical debility, and the mental prostration, that -are the gifts of climates which moist heat and damp cold -render equally unsalubrious and uncomfortable. That -no feature of miasma might be wanting to complete the -picture, filthy heaps of the rudest hovels, built in holes -in the jungle, sheltered their few miserable inhabitants, -whose frames are lean with constant intoxication, and -whose limbs, distorted by ulcerous sores, attest the -hostility of Nature to mankind. Such a revolting scene -is East Africa from central K’hutu to the base of the -Usagara Mountains.</p> - -<p>Running through this fetid flat the path passed on the -left sundry shallow salt-pits which, according to the -Arabs, are wet during the dry and dry during the wet -season. Presently after breaking through another fence -of holcus, whose cane was stiffer than the rattans of an -Indian jungle, we entered, and found lodgings in Bakera, -a pretty little hamlet ringed with papaws and -plantains, upon which the doves disported themselves. -Here, on our return in 1859, a thick growth of grass -waved over the ground-marks of hearth and roof-tree. -The African has a superstitious horror of stone walls; he -is still a semi-nomade, from the effects of the Wandertrieb, -or man’s vagabond instinct, uncurbed by the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-93">[93]</span> -habits of civilisation. Though vestiges of large and -stable habitations have been discovered in the barbarous -Eastern Horn, in these days, between the parallels of -Harar and the ruined Portuguese towns near the Zambezi -Rivers, inner Africa ignores a town of masonry. In -our theoretical maps, the circlets used by cartographers -to denote cities serve only to mislead; their names -prove them to be Saltanats—lordships, districts or -provinces.</p> - -<p>Resuming our course on the next day through -hollows and rice-swamps, where almost every ass fell or -cast its load, we came after a long tramp to the nearest -outposts of the Zungomero district; here were several -caravans with pitched tents, piles of ivory and crowds -of porters. The gang of thirty-six Wanyamwezi, who -had preceded us, having located themselves at a distant -hamlet, we resumed our march, and presently were met -by a number of our men headed by their guard, the -two “sons of Ramji.” Ensued a general sword and -spear play, each man with howls and cheers brandished -his blade or vibrated his missile, rushing about in all -directions, and dealing death amongst ideal foes with -such action as may often be observed in poultry-yards -when the hens indulge in a little merry pugnacity. -The march had occupied us four weeks, about double the -usual time, and the porters had naturally began to suspect -accidents from the Wazaramo.</p> - -<p>Zungomero, the head of the great river-valley, is a -plain of black earth and sand, prodigiously fertile. It -is enclosed on all sides except the eastern, or the line of -drainage; northwards rise the peaks of Dut’humi; westwards -lie the little Wigo hills and the other spurs of Usagara, -uncultivated and uninhabited, though the country -is populous up to their feet; and southwards are detached -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-94">[94]</span> -cones of similar formation, steep, rocky, and densely -wooded. The sea-breeze is here strong, but beyond its -influence the atmosphere is sultry and oppressive; -owing to maritime influences the kosi, or south-west -wind, sometimes continues till the end of July. The -normal day, which varies little throughout the year, -begins with the light milky mist which forms the cloud-ring; -by degrees nimbi and cumuli come up from the -east, investing the heights of Dut’humi, and, when -showers are imminent, a heavy line of stratus bisects -the highlands and overlies the surface of the plain. -At the epochs of the lunar change rain falls once or -twice during the day and night, and, when the clouds -burst, a fiery sun sucks up poison from the earth’s -putridity. The early nights are oppressive, and towards -the dawn condensation causes a copious deposit of heavy -dew, which even the people of the country dread. A -prolonged halt causes general sickness amongst the -porters and slaves of a caravan. The humidity of the -atmosphere corrodes everything with which it comes in -contact; the springs of powder-flasks exposed to the -damp snap like toasted quills; clothes feel limp and -damp; paper, becoming soft and soppy by the loss of -glazing, acts as a blotter; boots, books, and botanical -collections are blackened; metals are ever rusty; the -best percussion caps, though labelled waterproof, will -not detonate unless carefully stowed away in waxed -cloth and tin boxes; gunpowder, if not kept from -the air, refuses to ignite; and wood becomes covered -with mildew. We had an abundance of common -German phosphor-matches, and the best English wax -lucifers; both, however, became equally unserviceable, -the heads shrank and sprang off at the least touch, -and the boxes frequently became a mere mass of paste. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-95">[95]</span> -To future travellers I should recommend the “good -old plan;” a bit of phosphorus in a little phial half full -of olive oil, which serves for light as well as ignition. -When accompanied by matchlock-men, however, there -is no difficulty about fire; their pouches always contain -a steel and flint, and a store of cotton, or of the wild -Bombex, dipped in saltpetre or gunpowder solution.</p> - -<p>Yet Zungomero is the great Bandárí or centre of -traffic in the eastern, as are Unyanyembe and Ujiji in -the middle and the western regions. Lying upon the -main trunk-road, it must be traversed by the up and -down-caravans, and, during the travelling season, between -June and April, large bodies of some thousand -men pass through it every week. Kilwa formerly -sent caravans to it, and the Wanyamwezi porters have -frequently made that port by the “Mwera road.” The -Arab merchants usually pitch tents, preferring them -to the leaky native huts, full of hens and pigeons, rats -and mice, snakes and lizards, crickets and cockroaches, -gnats and flies, and spiders of hideous appearance, where -the inmates are often routed by swarms of bees, and -are ever in imminent danger of fires. The armed slaves -accompanying the caravan seize the best huts, which -they either monopolise or share with the hapless inmates, -and the porters stow themselves away under -the projecting eaves of the habitations. The main -attraction of the place is the plenty of provisions. -Grain is so abundant that the inhabitants exist almost -entirely upon the intoxicating pombe, or holcus-beer,—a -practice readily imitated by their visitors. Bhang -and the datura plant, growing wild, add to the attractions -of the spot. The Bhang is a fine large species of -the Cannabis Indica, the bang of Persia, the bhang of -India, and the benj of Arabia, the fasukh of northern, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-96">[96]</span> -and the dakha of southern Africa. In the low lands of -East Africa it grows before every cottage door. As in -hot climates generally, the fibre degenerates, and the -plant is only valued for its narcotic properties. The -Arabs smoke the sun-dried leaf with, and the Africans -without tobacco, in huge waterpipes, whose bowls contain -a quarter of a pound. Both ignore the more -luxurious preparations, momiya and hashish, ganja -and sebzi, charas and maajun. Like the “jangli” or -jungle (wild)-bhang of Sindh, affected by kalandars, -fakirs, and other holy beggars, this variety, contracting -the muscle of the throat, produces a violent whooping-cough, -ending in a kind of scream, after a few long -puffs, when the smoke is inhaled; and if one man sets -the example the others are sure to follow. These grotesque -sounds are probably not wholly natural; even -the boys may be heard practising them; they appear to -be a fashion of “renowning it”; in fact, an announcement -to the public that the fast youths are smoking -bhang. The Datura stramonium, called by the Arabs -and by the Wasawahili “muranhá,” grows in the well-watered -plains; it bears a large whitish flower and a -thorn-apple, like that of India. The heathen, as well -as their visitors, dry the leaves, the flowers, and the -rind of the rootlet, which is considered the strongest -preparation, and smoke them in a common bowl or in a -water-pipe. This is held to be a sovereign remedy -against zik el nafas (asthma) and influenza; it diminishes -the cough by loosening the phlegm. The -Washenzi never make that horrible use of the plant -known to the Indian dhaturiya, or datura-poisoners: -many accidents, however, occur from ignorance of its -violent narcotism. Meat is scarce: the only cattle are -those driven down by the Wanyamwezi to the coast; -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-97">[97]</span> -milk, butter, and ghee are consequently unprocurable. A -sheep or a goat will not cost less than a shukkah, or four -cubits of domestics, here worth twenty-five cents. The -same will purchase only two fowls; and eggs and fruit—chiefly -papaws and plantains, cocos and limes—are at -fancy prices. For the shukkah eight rations of unhusked -holcus, four measures of rice—which must here -be laid in by those travelling up-country—and five cakes -of tobacco, equal to about three pounds, are generally procurable. -Thus the daily expenditure of a large caravan -ranges from one dollar to one dollar fifty cents’ worth -of cloth in the Zanzibar market. The value, however, -fluctuates greatly, and the people will shirk selling even -at any price.</p> - -<p>The same attractions which draw caravans to Zungomero -render it the great rendezvous of an army of -touters, who, whilst watching for the arrival of the -ivory traders, amuse themselves with plundering the -country. The plague has now spread like a flight of -locusts over the land. The Wak’hutu, a timid race, who, -unlike the Wazaramo, have no sultan to gather round, -are being gradually ousted from their ancient seats. In -a large village there will seldom be more than three or -four families, who occupy the most miserable hovels, all -the best having been seized by the touters or pulled -down for firewood. These men—slaves, escaped -criminals, and freemen of broken fortunes, flying from -misery, punishment, or death on the coast—are armed -with muskets and sabres, bows and spears, daggers and -knobsticks. They carry ammunition, and thus are too -strong for the country people. When rough language -and threats fail, the levelled barrel at once establishes -the right to a man’s house and property, to his wife and -children. If money runs short, a village is fired by -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-98">[98]</span> -night, and the people are sold off to the first caravan. -In some parts the pattering of musketry is incessant, as -it ever was in the turbulent states of Independent India. -It is rarely necessary to have recourse to violence, the -Wak’hutu, believing their tyrants to be emissaries, as -they represent themselves, from His Highness the -Sultan, and the chief nobles of Zanzibar, offer none -but the most passive resistance, hiding their families -and herds in the bush. Thus it happens that towards -the end of the year nothing but a little grain can be -purchased in a land of marvellous fertility.</p> - -<p>As has been mentioned, these malpractices are severely -reprobated by His Highness the Sultan, and when the -evil passes a certain point remedial measures are taken. -A Banyan, for instance, is sent to the coast with warnings -to the Diwans concerned. But what care they for -his empty words, when they know that he has probably -equipped a similar party of black buccaneers himself? -and what hope can there be of reform when there is not -an honest man in the country to carry it out? Thus -the Government of Zanzibar is rendered powerless;—improvement -can be expected only from the hand of Time. -The Wak’hutu, indeed, often threaten a deputation to -entreat the Arab Sultan for protection in the shape of a -garrison of Baloch. This measure has been retarded -for sound reasons: no man dares to leave his house for -fear of finding it a ruin on his return; moreover, he -would certainly be shot if the touters guessed his intention, -and, even if he escaped this danger, he would -probably be sold, on the way to the coast, by his truculent -neighbours the Wazaramo. Finally, if they succeeded -in their wishes, would not a Baloch garrison act -the part of the man who, in the fable, was called in to -assist the horse against the stag? The Arabs, who know -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-99">[99]</span> -the temper of these mercenaries, are too wise ever to -sanction such a “dragonnade.”</p> - -<p>The reader will readily perceive that he is upon the -slave-path, so different from travel amongst the free and -independent tribes of Southern Africa. The traffic practically -annihilates every better feeling of human nature. -Yet, though the state of the Wak’hutu appears pitiable, -the traveller cannot practise pity: he is ever in the -dilemma of maltreating or being maltreated. Were -he to deal civilly and liberally with this people he would -starve: it is vain to offer a price for even the necessaries -of life; it would certainly be refused because more is -wanted, and so on beyond the bounds of possibility. -Thus, if the touter did not seize a house, he would never -be allowed to take shelter in it from the storm; if he -did not enforce a “corvée,” he must labour beyond his -strength with his own hands; and if he did not fire a -village and sell the villagers, he might die of hunger in -the midst of plenty. Such in this province are the -action and reaction of the evil.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-100">[100]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoi-8"> -<img src="images/i_illo124.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Party of Wak’hutu Women.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. IV.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">ON THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE FIRST REGION.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">Before bidding adieu to the Maritime Region, it will -be expedient to enter into a few details concerning its -geography and ethnology.<a id="FNanchor7"></a><a href="#Footnote7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote7"></a><a href="#FNanchor7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> -Those who consider the subject worthy of further consideration are -referred, for an ampler account of it, to the Journal of the R. Geographical -Society, vol. xxix. of 1860.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>The first or maritime region extends from the shores -of the Indian Ocean in <span class="smcap">E.</span> long. 39° to the mountain-chain -forming the land of Usagara in <span class="smcap">E.</span> long. 37° 28′; its -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-101">[101]</span> -breadth is therefore 92 geographical miles, measured in -rectilinear distance, and its mean length, bounded by the -waters of the Kingani and the Rufiji rivers, may be assumed -at 110. The average rise is under 4 feet per -mile. It is divided into two basins; that of the Kingani -easterly, and westward that of the Mgeta stream with -its many tributaries; the former, which is the principal, -is called the land of Uzaramo; the latter, which is of the -second order, contains the provinces of K’hutu, by the -Arabs pronounced Kutu, and Uziraha, a minor district. -The natives of the country divide it into the three lowlands -of Tunda, Dut’humi, and Zungomero.</p> - -<p>The present road runs with few and unimportant deviations -along the whole length of the fluviatile valleys -of the Kingani and the Mgeta. Native caravans if -lightly laden generally accomplish the march in a fortnight, -one halt included. On both sides of this line, -whose greatest height above the sea-level was found by -<span class="smcapall">B. P.</span> therm. to be 330 feet, rises the rolling ground, which -is the general character of the country. Its undulations -present no eminences worthy of notice; near the -sea they are short and steep, further inland they roll in -longer waves, and everywhere they are covered with -abundant and luxuriant vegetation, the result of decomposition -upon the richest soil. In parts there is an -appearance of park land; bushless and scattered forests, -with grass rising almost to the lower branches of the -smaller thorns; here and there clumps and patches of impassable -shrubbery cluster round knots and knolls of -majestic and thickly foliaged trees. The narrow footpaths -connecting the villages often plunge into dark -and dense tunnels formed by overarching branch and -bough, which delay the file of laden porters; the mud -lingering long after a fall of rain in these low -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-102">[102]</span> -grounds fills them with a chilly clammy atmosphere. -Merchants traverse such spots with trembling; in these, -the proper places for ambuscade, a few determined men -easily plunder a caravan by opposing it in front or by -an attack in rear. The ways are often intersected -by deep nullahs and water-courses, dry during the hot -season, but unfordable when rain falls. In the many -clearings, tobacco, maize, holcus, sesamum, and ground-nuts, -manioc, beans, pulse, and sweet potatoes flourish; -the pine-apple is a weed, and a few cocos and mangoes, -papaws, jack-fruit, plantains, and limes are scattered -over the districts near the sea. Rice grows abundantly -in the lower levels. The villages are hidden deep in the -bush or grass: the crowing of the cocks heard all along -the road, except in the greater stretches of wilderness, -proves them to be numerous; they are, however -small and thinly populated. The versant, as usual in -maritime E. Africa, trends towards the Indian Ocean. -Water abounds even at a distance from the rivers; it -springs from the soil in diminutive runnels and lies in -“shimo” or pits, varying from surface-depth to 10 feet. -The monsoon-rains, which are heavy, commence in -March, about a month earlier than in Zanzibar, and the -duration is similar. The climate of the higher lands is -somewhat superior to that of the valley, but it is still -hot and oppressive. The formation, after passing from -the corallines, the limestones, the calcareous tuffs, and -the rude gravelly conglomerates of the coast, is purely -primitive and sandstone: erratic blocks of fine black -hornblende and hornblendic rock, used by the people as -whetstones and grinding-slabs, abound in the river-beds, -which also supply the clay used for pottery. The subsoil -is near the sea a stiff blue loam, in the interior a -ruddy quartzose gravel; the soil is a rich brown or black -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-103">[103]</span> -humus, here and there coated with, or varied by, clean -white sand, and in some parts are seams of reddish loam. -Fresh-water shells are scattered over the surface, and -land-crabs burrow in the looser earths where stone -seldom appears. Black cattle are unknown in the maritime -region, but poultry, sheep, and goats are plentiful: -near the jungle they are protected from the leopards or -ounces by large wooden huts, like cages, raised on piles -for cleanliness.</p> - -<p>As a rule, the fluviatile valleys resemble in most -points the physical features of the coast and island of -Zanzibar: the general aspect of the country, however—the -expression of its climate—undergoes some modifications. -Near the sea, the basin is a broad winding -line, traversed by the serpentine river, whose bed is -now too deep for change. About the middle expanse -stony ridges and rocky hills crop out from the -rolling ground, and the head of the valley is a low continuous -plain. In many places, especially near the -estuary, river-terraces, like road embankments, here converging, -there diverging, indicate by lines and strews of -water-worn pebbles and sea-shells the secular uprise of -the country and the declension of the stream to its present -level. These raised seabeaches at a distance appear -crowned with dwarf rounded cones which, overgrown -with lofty trees, are favourite sites for settlements. In -the lower lands the jungle and the cultivation are of the -rankest and most gigantic description, the effect of a -damp, hot region, where atmospheric pressure is excessive. -The grass, especially that produced by the black -soils in the swamps and marshes, rises to the height of -12-13 feet, and serves to conceal runaway slaves and -malefactors: the stalks vary in thickness from a goose-quill -to a man’s finger. The larger growths, which are -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-104">[104]</span> -so closely planted that they conceal the soil, cannot be -traversed without paths, and even where these exist the -traveller must fight his way through a dense screen, receiving -from time to time a severe blow when the reeds -recoil, or a painful thrust from some broken and inclined -stump. Even the horny sole of the sandal-less African -cannot tread these places without being cut or staked, -and everywhere a ride through these grass-avenues whilst -still dripping with the cold exhalations of night, with the -sun beating fiercely upon the upper part of the body, is -a severe infliction to any man not in perfect health. The -beds of streams and nullahs are sometimes veiled by the -growth of the banks. These crops spring up with the -rains, and are burned down by hunters, or more frequently -by accident, after about a month of dry weather; -in the interim fires are dangerous: the custom is to beat -down the blaze with leafy boughs. Such is the variety -of species that in some parts of the river-valleys each day -introduces the traveller to a grass before unseen. Where -the inundations lie long, the trees are rare, and those -that exist are slightly raised by mounds above the ground -to escape the destructive effects of protracted submergence: -in these places the decomposed vegetation exhales -a fetid odour. Where the waters soon subside -there are clumps of tall shrubbery and seams of forest -rising on extensive meadows of grassy land, which give -it the semblance of a suite of natural parks or pleasure-grounds, -and the effect is not diminished by the frequent -herds of gnu and antelope prancing and pacing over their -pastures.</p> - -<p>The climate is hot and oppressive, and the daily sea-breeze, -which extends to the head of the Mgeta valley, -is lost in the lower levels. About Zungomero rain is -constant, except for a single fortnight in the month of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-105">[105]</span> -January; it seems to the stranger as if the crops must -infallibly decay, but they do not. At most times the -sun, even at its greatest northern declination, shines -through a veil of mist with a sickly blaze and a blistering -heat, and the overcharge of electricity is evidenced -by frequent and violent thunder-storms. In the western -parts cold and cutting breezes descend from the rugged -crags of Dut’humi.</p> - -<p>The principal diseases of the valley are severe ulcerations -and fevers, generally of a tertian type. The -“Mkunguru” begins with coldness in the toes and -finger-tips; a frigid shiver seems to creep up the legs, -followed by pains in the shoulders, severe frontal headache, -hot eyes, and a prostration and irritability of mind -and body. This preliminary lasts for one to three -hours, when nausea ushers in the hot stage: the head -burns, the action of the heart becomes violent, thirst -rages, and a painful weight presses upon the eyeballs: -it is often accompanied by a violent cough and irritation. -Strange visions, as in delirium, appear to the -patient, and the excitement of the brain is proved by -unusual loquacity. When the fit passes off with copious -perspiration the head is often affected, the ears buzz, and -the limbs are weak. If the patient attempts to rise -suddenly, he feels a dizziness, produced apparently by a -gush of bile along the liver duct: want of appetite, -sleeplessness and despondency, and a low fever, evidenced -by hot pulses, throbbing temples, and feet painfully -swollen, with eruptions of various kinds, and ulcerated -mouth, usher in the cure. This fever yields easily to -mild remedies, but it is capable of lasting three weeks.</p> - -<p>A multitude of roads, whose point of departure is -the coast, form a triangle and converge at the “Makutaniro,” -or junction-place, in Central Uzaramo. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-106">[106]</span> -route whose several stations have been described is -one of the main lines running from Kaole and Bagamoyo, -in a general southwest direction, till it falls into -the great trunk road which leads directly west from -Mbuamaji. It is divided into thirteen caravan stages, -but a well-girt walker will accomplish the distance in -a week.</p> - -<p>No apology is offered for the lengthiness of the ethnographical -descriptions contained in the following pages. -The ethnology of Africa is indeed its most interesting, -if not its only interesting feature. Everything connected -with the habits and customs, the moral and religious, -the social and commercial state of these new races, -is worthy of diligent observation, careful description, and -minute illustration. There is indeed little in the physical -features of this portion of the great peninsula to excite -the attention of the reader beyond the satisfaction that -ever accompanies the victory of truth over fable, and a -certain importance which in these “travelling times,”—when -man appears rapidly rising to the rank of a migratory -animal,—must attach to discovery. The subject, indeed, -mostly banishes ornament. Lying under the same -parallels with a climate whose thermical variations know -no extremes, the succession of alluvial valley, ghaut, -table-land, and shelving plain is necessarily monotonous, -the soil is the same, the productions are similar, and the -rocks and trees resemble one another. Eastern and -central inter-tropical Africa also lacks antiquarian and -historic interest, it has few traditions, no annals, and no -ruins, the hoary remnants of past splendour so dear to -the traveller and to the reader of travels. It contains not -a single useful or ornamental work, a canal or a dam is, -and has ever been, beyond the narrow bounds of its -civilisation. It wants even the scenes of barbaric pomp -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-107">[107]</span> -and savage grandeur with which the student of occidental -Africa is familiar. But its ethnography has novelties: -it exposes strange manners and customs, its Fetichism is -in itself a wonder, its commerce deserves attention, and -its social state is full of mournful interest. The fastidiousness -of the age, however, forbidding ampler details, -even under the veil of the “learned languages,” -cripples the physiologist, and robs the subject of its -principal peculiarities. I have often regretted that if -Greek and dog-Latin be no longer a sufficient disguise -for the facts of natural history, human and bestial, the -learned have not favoured us with a system of symbols -which might do away with the grossness of words.</p> - -<p>The present tenants of the First Region are the -Wazaramo, the Wak’hutu, and their great sub-tribe, the -Waziraha; these form the staple of population,—the -Wadoe and the Wazegura being minor and immigrant -tribes.</p> - -<p>The Wazaramo are no exception to the rule of barbarian -maritime races: they have, like the Somal, the -Gallas, the Wangindo, the Wamakua, and the Cape Kafirs, -come into contact with a civilisation sufficiently powerful -to corrupt without subjugating them; and though cultivators -of the ground, they are more dreaded by caravans -than any tribe from the coast to the Lake Region. They -are bounded eastward by the thin line of Moslems in the -maritime regions, westward by the Wak’hutu, northward -by the Kingani River, and on the south by the tribes of -the Rufiji. The Wazaramo, or, as they often pronounce -their own name, Wazalamo, claim connection with the -semi-nomade Wakamba, who have, within the last few -years, migrated to the north-west of Mombasah. Their -dialect, however, proves them to be congeners of -the Wak’hutu, and distinct from the Wakamba. As in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-108">[108]</span> -East Africa generally, it is impossible to form the remotest -idea of the number of families, or of the total of -population. The Wazaramo number many sub-tribes, -the principal of which are the Wákámbá and the Wáp’hangárá.</p> - -<p>These negroids are able-bodied men, tall and straight, -compared with the Coast-clans, but they are inferior in -development to most of the inner tribes. The complexion, -as usual, varies greatly. The chiefs are often -coal-black, and but few are of light colour. This arises -from the country being a slave-importer rather than -exporter; and here, as among the Arabs, black skins -are greatly preferred. The Mzaramo never circumcises, -except when becoming a “Mháji,” or Moslem convert; -nor does this tribe generally tattoo, though some adorn -the face with three long cicatrized cuts, like the Mashali -of Mecca, extending down each cheek from the ear-lobes -to the corners of the mouth. Their distinctive mark is -the peculiarity of dressing their hair. The thick wool -is plastered over with a cap-like coating of ochreish and -micaceous clay, brought from the hills, and mixed to -the consistency of honey with the oil of the sesamum -or the castor-bean. The pomatum, before drying, is -pulled out with the fingers to the ends of many little -twists, which circle the head horizontally, and the mass is -separated into a single or a double line of knobs, the -upper being above, and the lower below, the ears, both look -stiff and matted, as if affected with a bad plica polonica. -The contrast between these garlands of small red dilberries -and the glossy black skin is, however, effective. The -clay, when dry, is washed out with great trouble by -means of warm water—soap has yet to be invented—and -by persevering combing with the fingers. Women wear -the hair-thatch like men; there are, however, several -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-109">[109]</span> -styles. It is usually parted in the centre, from the -crinal front-line to the nape of the neck, and allowed to -grow in a single or double dense thatch, ridging the -head breadthwise from ear to ear: this is coloured or -not coloured, according to the wearer’s taste. Some of -the Wazaramo, again, train lumps of their wool to rise -above the region of cautiousness, and very exactly -simulate bears’ ears. The face is usually lozenge-shaped, -the eyes are somewhat oblique, the nose is flat and patulated, -the lips tumid and everted, the jaw prognathous, -and the beard, except in a few individuals, is scanty. -The sebaceous odour of the skin amongst all these races -is overpowering: emitted with the greatest effect during -and after excitement either of mind or body, it connects -the negroid with the negro and separates him from the -Somal, the Galla, and the Malagash. The expression of -countenance is wild and staring, the features are coarse -and harsh, the gait is loose and lounging; the Arab strut -and the Indian swagger are unknown in East Africa. The -Wazaramo tribe is rich in albinos; three were seen by the -Expedition in the course of a single day. They much -resemble Europeans of the leucous complexion; the -face is quite bald; the skin is rough, and easily wrinkles -in long lines, marked by a deeper pink; the hair is -short, sharp-curling, and coloured like a silk-worm’s -cocoon, and the lips are red. The eyes have grey -pupils and rosy “whites:” they appear very sensitive -to light, and are puckered up so as to distort the countenance. -The features are unusually plain, and the stature -appears to range below the average. The people who -have no prejudice against them, call these leucœthiops -Wazungu, “white men.”</p> - -<p>The Wazaramo tribe is wealthy enough to dress well: -almost every man can afford a shukkah or loin-cloth of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-110">[110]</span> -unbleached cotton, which he stains a dirty yellow, like the -Indian gerua, with a clay dug in the subsoil. Their -ornaments are extensive girdles and bead necklaces of -various colours, white disks, made from the base of a -sea-shell, and worn single on the forehead or in pairs at -the neck. A massy ring of brass or zinc encircles the -wrist. The decoration peculiar to the tribe, and common -to both sexes, is the mgoweko, a tight collar or -cravat, 1 to 1·50 inches broad, of red and yellow, white -and black beads, with cross-bars of different colours at -short intervals. Men never appear in public without -an ostentatious display of arms. The usual weapons, -when they cannot procure muskets, are spears, bows, -and arrows, the latter poisoned, and sime, or long knives -like the Somali daggers, made by themselves with imported -iron. The chiefs are generally seen in handsome -attire; embroidered Surat caps bound with a tight -snowy turban of a true African shape, which contrasts -well with black skins and the short double-peaked beards -below. The body-garment is a loin-cloth of showy Indian -cotton or Arab check; some prefer the long shirt -and the kizbao or waistcoat affected by the slaves at -Zanzibar. The women are well dressed as the men—a -circumstance rare in East Africa. Many of them -have the tibia bowed in front by bearing heavy water-pots -at too early an age; when not burdened they have -a curious mincing gate, they never veil their faces, and -they show no shame in the presence of strangers. The -child is carried in a cloth at the back.</p> - -<p>The habitations of the Wazaramo are far superior in -shape and size to those of K’hutu, and, indeed, to any -on this side of Unyamwezi. Their buildings generally -resemble the humbler sort of English cow-house, or an -Anglo-Indian bungalow. In poorer houses the outer -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-111">[111]</span> -walls are of holcus canes, rudely puddled; the better -description are built of long and broad sheets of Myombo -and Mkora bark, propped against strong uprights -inside, and bound horizontally by split bamboos tied outside -with fibrous cord. The heavy pent-shaped roof -often provided with a double thatch of grass and reeds, -projects eaves, which are high enough to admit a man -without stooping; these are supported by a long cross -bar resting on perpendiculars, tree-trunks, barked and -smoothed, forked above, and firmly planted in the -ground. Along the outer marginal length of this -verandah lies a border of large logs polished by long -sittings. The interior is dark and windowless, and -party-walls of stiff grass-cane divide it into several compartments. -The list of furniture comprises a dwarf -cartel about 4 feet long by 16 inches broad, upon which -even the married couple manages to make itself comfortable; -a stool cut out of a single block, a huge wooden -mortar, mtungi or black earthen pots, gourds, ladles of -cocoa-nut, cast-off clothes, whetstones, weapons, nets, and -in some places creels for fishing. Grain is ground upon -an inclined slab of fine-grained granite or syenite, sometimes -loose, at other times fixed in the ground with a -mud plaster; the classical Eastern handmill is unknown -in this part of Africa. The inner roof and its rafters, -shining with a greasy soot, in wet weather admit drenching -lines of leakage, and the only artifice applied to the -flooring is the tread of the proprietors. The door is a -close hurdle of parallel holcus-straw bound to five or -six cross-bars with strips of bark. In a village there -will be from four to twelve “bungalows;” the rest are -the normal haycock and beehive hut of Africa. Where -enemies are numerous the settlements are palisaded; -each has, moreover, but a single entrance, which is approached -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-112">[112]</span> -by a narrow alley of strong stockade, and is -guarded by a thick planking that fits into a doorway -large enough to admit cattle.</p> - -<p>The Wazaramo are an ill-conditioned, noisy, boisterous -violent, and impracticable race. A few years ago they -were the principal obstacle to Arab and other travellers -entering into East Africa. But the seizure of Kaole and -other settlements by the late Sayyid of Zanzibar has -now given strangers a footing in the land. After tasting -the sweets of gain, they have somewhat relented; but -quarrels between them and the caravans are still frequent. -The P’házi, or chief of the district, demands a -certain amount of cloth for free passage from all merchants -on their way to the interior; from those returning -he takes cattle, jembe, or iron hoes, shokah or -hatchets, in fact, whatever he can obtain. If not contented, -his clansmen lie in ambush and discharge a few -poisoned arrows at the trespassers: they never have -attempted, like the Wagogo, to annihilate a caravan; in -fact, the loss of one of their number causes a general -panic. They have hitherto successfully resisted the little -armies of touters that have almost desolated K’hutu, and -they are frequently in hostilities with the coast settlements. -The young men sometimes set out on secret -plundering expeditions to Bagamoyo and Mbuamaji, and -enter the houses at night by mining under the walls. -The burghers attempt to defeat them by burying stones -and large logs as a foundation, but in vain: their -superior dexterity has originated a superstitious notion -that they possess a peculiar “medicine,” a magic spell -called “Ugumba,” which throws the household into a -deep trance. When a thief is caught <i>in flagrante delicto</i>, -his head soon adorns a tall pole at the entrance of the -settlement: it is not uncommon to see half a dozen -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-113">[113]</span> -bloody or bleached fragments of humanity collected in a -single spot. When disposed to be friendly the Wazaramo -will act as porters to Arabs, but if a man die his -load is at once confiscated by his relatives, who, however, -insist upon receiving his blood-money, as if he had -been slain in battle. Their behaviour to caravans in -their own country depends upon the strangers’ strength; -many trading bodies therefore unite into one before -beginning the transit, and even then they are never -without fear.</p> - -<p>The Wazaramo chiefs are powerful only when their -wealth or personal qualities win the respect of their -unruly republican subjects. There are no less than five -orders in this hereditary master-class. The P’hazi is the -headman of the village, and the Mwene Goha is his principal -councillor; under these are three ranks of elders, -the Kinyongoni, the Chúmá, and the Káwámbwá. The -headman, unless exceptionally influential, must divide -amongst his “ministry” the blackmail extorted from travellers. -The P’hazi usually fills a small village with -his wives and families; he has also large estates, and he -personally superintends the labour of his slave-gangs. -He cannot sell his subjects except for two offences—Ugoni -or adultery, and Ucháwe or black magic. The -latter crime is usually punished by the stake; in some -parts of the country the roadside shows at every few -miles a heap or two of ashes with a few calcined and -blackened human bones mixed with bits of half-consumed -charcoal, telling the tragedy that has been enacted -there. The prospect cannot be contemplated without -horror; here and there, close to the larger circles where -the father and mother have been burnt, a smaller heap -shows that some wretched child has shared their terrible -fate, lest growing up he should follow in his parents’ path. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-114">[114]</span> -The power of conviction is wholly in the hands of the -Mgángá or medicine-man, who administers an ordeal -called Bága or Kyápo by boiling water. If the hand -after being dipped show any sign of lesion, the offence -is proven, and the sentence is instantly carried into execution.</p> - -<p>Instinctively conscious of their moral wants, the -Washenzi throughout this portion of East Africa have -organised certain customs which have grown to laws. -The first is the Sáre or brother oath. Like the -“manred” of Scotland, the “munh bola bhai” of India, -and similar fraternal institutions amongst most of the ancient -tribes of barbarians in whom sociability is a passion, -it tends to reconcile separate interests between man and -man, to modify the feuds and discords of savage society, -and, principally, to strengthen those that need an alliance. -In fact, it is a contrivance for choosing relations instead of -allowing Nature to force them upon man, and the flimsiness -of the tie between brothers born in polygamy has -doubtless tended to perpetuate it. The ceremony, which -is confined to adults of the male sex, is differently performed -in the different tribes. Amongst the Wazaramo, -the Wazegura, and the Wasagara, the two “brothers” -sit on a hide face to face, with legs outstretched to the -front and overlapping one another; their bows and -arrows are placed across their thighs, whilst a third person, -waving a sword over their heads, vociferates curses -against any one that may “break the brotherhood.” A -sheep is then slaughtered, and its flesh, or more often its -heart, is brought roasted to the pair, who, having made -with a dagger incisions in each other’s breasts close to -the pit of the stomach, eat a piece of meat smeared with -the blood. Among the Wanyamwezi and the Wajiji the -cut is made below the left ribs or above the knee; each -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-115">[115]</span> -man receives in a leaf his brother’s blood, which, mixed -with oil or butter, he rubs into his own wound. An -exchange of small presents generally concludes the rite. -It is a strong tie, as all men believe that death or -slavery would follow its infraction. The Arabs, to whom -the tasting of blood is unlawful, usually perform it by -proxy. The slave “Fundi,” or fattori, of the caravans -become brothers, even with the Washenzi, whenever -they expect an opportunity of utilising the relationship.</p> - -<p>The second custom is more peculiar. The East African -dares not appropriate an article found upon the road, -especially if he suspect that it belongs to a fellow tribeman. -He believes that a “Kigámbo,” an unexpected -calamity, slavery or death, would follow the breach of -this custom. At Zungomero a watch, belonging to the -Expedition, was picked up by the country people in the -jungle, and was punctually returned, well wrapped round -with grass and leaves. But subsequent experience makes -the traveller regret that the superstition is not of a -somewhat more catholic and comprehensive character.</p> - -<p>The religion of the East African will be treated of in -a future page. The Wazaramo, like their congeners, -are as little troubled with ceremony as with belief. In -things spiritual as in things temporal they listen to but -one voice, that of “Ádá,” or custom. The most offensive -scoffer or sceptic in Europe is not regarded with -more abomination than the man who in these lands would -attempt to touch a jot or tittle of Ádá.</p> - -<p>There are no ceremonies on birth-occasions and no -purification of women amongst these people. In the -case of abortion or of a still-born child they say, “he -hath returned,” that is to say, to home in earth. When -the mother perishes in childbirth, the parents claim a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-116">[116]</span> -certain sum from “the man that killed their daughter.” -Neither on the continent nor at Zanzibar do they bind with -cloth the head of the new-born babe. Twins, here called -Wápáchá, and by the Arabs of Zanzibar, Shukúl (شكول) -are usually sold or exposed in the jungle as amongst the -Ibos of West Africa. If the child die, an animal is -killed for a general feast, and in some tribes the mother -does a kind of penance. Seated outside the village, she -is smeared, with fat and flour, and exposed to the derision -of people who surround her, hooting and mocking -with offensive jests and gestures. To guard against this -calamity, the Wazaramo and other tribes are in the habit -of vowing that the babe shall not be shaved till manhood, -and the mother wears a number of talismans, bits of -wood tied, with a thong of snake’s skin, round her neck, -and beads of different shapes round her head. When -carrying her offspring, which she rarely leaves alone, -she bears in her hand what is technically called a kirangozi, -a “guide” or “guardian,” in the form of two sticks -a few inches in length, bound with bands of particoloured -beads. This article, made up by the Mgángá or medicine-man, -is placed at night under the child’s head, and -is carried about till it has passed the first stage of life. -The kirangozi is intended to guard the treasure against -the malevolent spirits of the dead; that almost universal -superstition, the Evil Eye, though an article of faith -amongst the Arabs, the Wasawahili, and the Wamrima, -is unknown to the inner heathen.</p> - -<p>A name is given to the child without other celebration -than a debauch with pombe: this will sometimes occur -at the birth of a male, when he is wanted. The East -Africans, having few national prejudices, are fond of -calling their children after Arabs and other strangers: -they will even pay a sheep for the loan of a merchant’s -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-117">[117]</span> -name. There must be many hundred Sayyid Saids and -Sayyid Majids now in the country; and as during the -eighteen months’ peregrination of the East African Expedition -every child born on and near the great trunk-line -was called Muzungu—the “white”—the Englishman -has also left his mark in the land. The period of ablactation, -as in South Africa, is prolonged to the second or third -year: may this account, in part, for the healthiness of the -young and the almost total absence of debility and deformity? -Indeed, the nearest approach to the latter is -the unsightly protrusion of the umbilical region, sometimes -to the extent of several inches, owing to ignorance -of proper treatment; but, though conspicuous in childhood, -it disappears after puberty. Women retain the -power of suckling their children to a late age, even when -they appear withered grandames. Until the child can -walk without danger, it is carried by the mother, not -on the hip, as in Asia, but on the bare back for warmth, -a sheet or skin being passed over it and fastened at -the parent’s breast. Even in infancy it clings like a -young simiad, and the peculiar formation of the African -race renders the position easier by providing a kind of seat -upon which it subsides; the only part of the body exposed -to view is the little coco-nut head, with the small, round, -beady black eyes in a state of everlasting stare. Finally, -the “kigogo,” or child who cuts the two upper incisors -before the lower, is either put to death, or is given away -or sold to the slave-merchant, under the impression that -it will bring disease, calamity, and death into the household. -The Wasawahili and the Zanzibar Arabs have -the same impressions: the former kill the child; the latter, -after a Khitmah or perlection of the Koran, make -it swear, by nodding its head if unable to articulate, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-118">[118]</span> -that it will not injure those about it. Even in -Europe, it may be remembered, the old prejudice against -children born with teeth is not wholly forgotten.</p> - -<p>Amongst the Wazaramo there is no limitation to the -number of wives, except the expense of wedding and the -difficulty of supporting a large establishment. Divorce is -signified by presenting to the wife a piece of holcus-cane: -if a sensible woman she at once leaves the house, and, if -not, she is forced to leave. There is no more romance -in the affair even before marriage than in buying a goat. -The marriageable youth sends a friend to propose to the -father: if the latter consents, his first step is, not to -consult his daughter—such a proceeding would be -deemed the act of a madman—but to secure for himself -as many cloths as possible, from six to twelve, or -even more, besides a preliminary present which goes by -the name of kiremba (kilemba), his “turban.” This, -however, is a kind of settlement which is demanded -back if the wife die without issue; but if she bear children, -it is preserved for them by their grand-parents. -After the father the mother puts in her claim in behalf -of the daughter; she requires a kondáví, or broad parti-coloured -band of beads worn round the waist and next -the skin; her mukájyá or loin-cloth, and her wereko, or -sheet in which the child is borne upon the back. In the -interior the settlement is made in live-stock, varying from -a few goats to a dozen cows. This weighty point duly -determined, the husband leads his wife to his own home, -an event celebrated by drumming, dancing, and extensive -drunkenness. The children born in wedlock belong -to the father.</p> - -<p>When a man or a woman is at the point of death, the -friends assemble, and the softer sex sometimes sings, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-119">[119]</span> -howls, and weeps: the departing is allowed to depart life -upon the kitanda, or cartel. There is, however, little demonstrative -sorrow amongst these people, and, having the -utmost dread of disembodied spirits, all are anxious to -get rid of the corpse and its appertainings. The Wazaramo, -more civilised than their neighbours, bury their -dead stretched out and in the dress worn during life: -their graves have already been described.</p> - -<p>The “industry” of Usaramo will occupy but few sentences. -Before the great rains of the year set in the -land must be weeded, and scratches must be made with -a hoe for the reception of seed. The wet season ushers -in the period for copal digging: the proceeds are either -sold to travelling traders, or are carried down to the -coast in mákándá—mat-sacks—of light weight, and -are sold to the Banyans. Bargaining and huckstering, -cheapening and chaffering, are ever the African’s highest -intellectual enjoyments, and he does not fail to stretch -them to their utmost limits. After the autumnal rains -during the Azyab, or the north-east monsoon, the grass -is fired, when the men seizing their bows, arrows, and -spears, indiscriminately slaughter beast and bird—an -operation which, yearly repeated, accounts in part for the -scarcity of animal life so remarkable in this animal’s -paradise. When all trades fail, the Mzaramo repairs to -the coast, where, despite his bad name, he usually finds -employment as a labourer.</p> - -<p>Next in order to the maritime Wazaramo are the -Wak’hutu, to whom many of the observations upon the -subject of their more powerful neighbours equally apply. -Their territory extends from the Mgeta River to the -mountains of Usagara, and in breadth from the Dut’humi -Highlands to the Rufiji River.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-120">[120]</span></p> - -<p>The Wak’hutu are physically and, apparently, mentally -a race inferior to the Wazaramo; they are very -dark, and bear other marks of a degradation effected -by pernicious climatory conditions. They have no -peculiar tattoo, although individuals raise complicated -patterns in small cicatrices upon their breasts. The popular -head-dress is the clay-coating of the Wazaramo, of -somewhat modified dimensions; and some of them, -who are possibly derived from the Wahiao and other -southern clans, have a practice—exceptional in these -latitudes—of chipping their incisors to sharp points, -which imitate well enough the armature of the reptilia. -Their eyes are bleared and red with perpetual intoxication, -and they seem to have no amusements but -dancing and singing through half the night. None -but the wealthier can afford to wear cloth; the substitute -is a kilt of the calabash fibre, attached by a cord -of the same material to the waist. In women it often -narrows to a span, and would be inadequate to the -purposes of decency were it not assisted by an underclothing -of softened goatskin; this and a square of -leather upon the bosom, which, however, is often -omitted, compose the dress of the multitude. The ornaments -are like those of the Wazaramo, but by no means -so numerous. The Wak’hutu live poorly, and, having -no ghee, are contented with the oil of the sesamum and -the castor-bean with their holcus porridge. The rivers -supply them with the usual mud-fish; at times they -kill game. Their sheep, goats, and poultry they reserve -for barter on the coast; and, though bees swarm throughout -the land, and even enter the villages, they will not -take the trouble to make hives.</p> - -<p>As on the Mrima, the proportion of chiefs to subjects -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-121">[121]</span> -seems to increase in the inverse ratio of what is required. -Every district in K’hutu has its P’hazi or headman, with -his minister the Mwene Goha, and inferior chiefs, the -Chándumé, the Muwinge, and the Mbárá. These men live -chiefly upon the produce of their fields, which they sell to -caravans; they are too abject and timid to insist upon -the blackmail which has caused so many skirmishes in -Uzaramo; and the only use that they make of their -power is to tyrannise over their villages, and occasionally -to organise a little kidnapping. With the aid of slavery -and black magic they render their subjects’ lives as precarious -as they well can: no one, especially in old age, -is safe from being burnt at a day’s notice. They are -civil to strangers, but wholly unable to mediate between -them and the tribe. The Wak’hutu have been used as -porters; but they have proved so treacherous, and so -determined to desert, that no man will trust them in a -land where prepayment is the first condition of an -agreement. Property amongst them is insecure: a man -has always a vested right in his sister’s children; and -when he dies his brothers and relations carefully plunder -his widow and orphans.</p> - -<p>The dirty, slovenly villages of the Wak’hutu are an -index of the character of the people. Unlike the comfortable -cottages of the coast, and the roomy abodes of -the Wazaramo, the settlements of the Wak’hutu are composed -of a few straggling hovels of the humblest description—with -doors little higher than an English -pigsty, and eaves so low that a man cannot enter them -except on all fours. In shape they differ, some being -simple cones, others like European haystacks, and others -like our old straw beehives. The common hut is a circle -from 12 to 25 feet in diameter; those belonging to the -chiefs are sometimes of considerable size, and the first -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-122">[122]</span> -part of the erection is a cylindrical framework composed -of tall stakes, or the rough trunks of young trees, interwoven -with parallel and concentric rings of flexible twigs -and withies, which are coated inside and outside with -puddle of red or grey clay. In some a second circle of wall -is built round the inner cylinder, thus forming one house -within the other. The roof, subsequently added, is of -sticks and wattles, and the weight rests chiefly upon a -central tree. It has eaves-like projections, forming a -narrow verandah, edged with horizontal bars which -rest upon forked uprights. Over the sticks interwoven -with the frame, thick grass or palm-fronds are thrown, -and the whole is covered with a coat of thatch tied on -with strips of tree bark. During the first few minutes -of heavy rain, this roofing, shrunk by the parching suns, -admits water enough to patch the interior with mud. -The furniture of the cottages is like that of the Wazaramo; -and the few square feet which compose the area -are divided by screens of wattle into dark pigeon-holes, -used as stores, kitchen, and sleeping-rooms. A thick -field of high grass is allowed to grow in the neighbourhood -of each village, to baffle pursuers in case of need; -and some cottages are provided with double doorways -for easier flight. In the middle of the settlement there is -usually a tall tree, under which the men lounge upon -cots scarcely large enough for an English child; and -where the slaves, wrangling and laughing, husk their -holcus in huge wooden mortars. These villages can -scarcely be called permanent: even the death of a chief -causes them to be abandoned, and in a few months -long grass waves over the circlets of charred stakes and -straw.</p> - -<p>The only sub-tribe of the Wak’hutu which deserves -notice is the Waziráhá, who inhabit the low grounds -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-123">[123]</span> -below the Mabruki Pass, in the first parallel of the Usagara -Mountains. They are remarkable only for having -beards somewhat better developed than in the other -Eastern races: in sickly appearance they resemble their -congeners.</p> - -<p>Remain for consideration the Wadoe and the Wazegura. -The proper habitat of the Wadoe is between the -Watondwe or the tribes of Saadani, on the littoral, and -the Wak’hwere, near K’hutu, on the west; their northern -frontier is the land of the Wazegura, and their southern -the Gama and the Kingani Rivers. Their country, irrigated -by the waters of the Gama, is plentiful in grain, -though wanting in cattle; they export to Zanzibar sorghum -and maize, with a little of the chakazi or unripe -copal.</p> - -<p>The Wadoe once formed a powerful tribe, and were -the terror of their neighbours. Their force was first -broken by the Wakamba, who, however, so weakened -themselves, that they were compelled to emigrate in -mass from the country, and have now fixed themselves -in a region about 14 marches to the north-west of Mombasah, -which appears to have been anciently called that -of the Meremongao. During this struggle the Wadoe -either began or, what is more likely, renewed a practice -which has made their name terrible even in African ears. -Fearing defeat from the Wakamba, they proceeded, in -presence of the foe, to roast and devour slices from the -bodies of the fallen. The manœuvre was successful; the -Wakamba could dare to die, but they could not face the -idea of becoming food. Presently, when the Wazegura -had armed themselves with muskets, and the people of -Whinde had organised their large plundering excursions, -the Wadoe lost all power. About ten years ago Juma -Mfumbi, the late Diwan of Saadani, exacted tribute -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-124">[124]</span> -from them, and after his death his sons succeeded to it. -In 1857, broken by a famine of long continuance, many -Wadoe fled to the south of the Kingani River, and obtained -from the Wazaramo lands near Sagesera and -Dege la Mhora.</p> - -<p>The Wadoe differ greatly in colour and in form. -Some are tall, well-made, and light-complexioned Negroids, -others are almost black. Their distinctive mark—in -women as well as men—is a pair of long cuts down -both cheeks, from the temple to the jaw; they also frequently -chip away the two inner sides of the upper -central incisors, leaving a small chevron-shaped hole. -This however is practised almost throughout the country. -They are wild in appearance, and dress in softened skins, -stained yellow with the bark and flowers (?) of the mimosa. -Their arms are a large hide-shield, spears, bows, -and arrows, shokah or the little battle-axe, the sime-knife, -and the rungu or knobstick. They are said still -to drink out of human skulls, which are not polished or -prepared in any way for the purpose. The principal -chief is termed Mweme: his privy councillors are called -Mákungá (?), and the elders M’áná Miráo (?). The -great headmen are buried almost naked, but retaining -their bead-ornaments, sitting in a shallow pit, so that -the forefinger can project above the ground. With each -man are interred alive a male and a female slave, the -former holding a mundu or billhook wherewith to cut -fuel for his lord in the cold death-world, and the latter, -who is seated upon a little stool, supports his head in -her lap. This custom has been abolished by some of -the tribes: according to the Arabs, a dog is now buried -in lieu of the slaves. The subdivisions of the Wadoe -are numerous and unimportant.</p> - -<p>The Wazegura, who do not inhabit this line of road, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-125">[125]</span> -require some allusion, in consequence of the conspicuous -part which they have played in the evil -drama of African life. They occupy the lands south -of the Pangani River to the Cape of Utondwe, and -they extend westward as far as the hills of Nguru. -Originally a peaceful tribe, they have been rendered -terrible by the possession of fire-arms; and their chiefs -have now collected large stores of gunpowder, used only -to kidnap and capture the weaker wretches within their -reach. They thus supply the market of Zanzibar with -slaves, and this practice is not of yesterday. About -twenty years ago the Wazegura serfs upon the island, -who had been cheaply bought during a famine for a few -measures of grain, rose against their Arab masters, retired -into the jungle, and, reinforced by malefactors and -malcontents, began a servile war, which raged with the -greatest fury for six months, when the governor, Ahmed -bin Sayf, maternal uncle to His Highness the late Sayyid -Said, brought in a body of mercenaries from Hazramaut, -and broke the force of this Jacquerie by setting a -price upon their heads, and by giving the captives as -prizes to the captors. The exploits of Kisabengo, the -Mzegura, have already been alluded to. The Arab merchants -of Unyanyembe declare that the road will never -be safe until that person’s head adorns a pole: they -speak with bitterness of heart, for he exacts an unconscionable -“blackmail.”</p> - -<p>The Wazegura are in point of polity an exception to -the rule of East Africa: instead of owning hereditary -sultans, they obey the loudest tongue, the most open -hand, and the sharpest spear. This tends practically to -cause a perpetual blood-feud, and to raise up a number -of petty chiefs, who, aspiring to higher positions, must -distinguish themselves by bloodshed, and must acquire -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-126">[126]</span> -wealth in weapons, especially fire-arms, the great -title to superiority, by slave-dealing. The only occasion -when they combine is an opportunity of successful attack -upon some unguarded neighbour. Briefly, the -Wazegura have become an irreclaimable race, and such -they will remain until compelled to make a livelihood -by honest industry.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoi-4"> -<img src="images/i_illo152.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">EXPLORERS IN EAST AFRICA.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-127">[127]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. V.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">HALT AT ZUNGOMERO, AND FORMATION OF THE CARAVAN.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">I halted to collect carriage and to await the arrival -of the twenty-two promised porters for about a fortnight -at that hot-bed of pestilence, Zungomero, where we nearly -found “wet graves.” Our only lodging was under the -closed eaves of a hut built African-fashion, one abode -within the other. The roof was a sieve, the walls were -systems of chinks, and the floor was a sheet of mud. -Outside the rain poured pertinaciously, as if K’hutu had -been situated in the “black north” of Hibernia; the -periodical S. and S.W. winds were raw and chilling, the -gigantic vegetation was sopped to decay, and the tangled -bank of the Mgeta River, lying within pistol-shot of -our hovels, added its quotum of miasma. The hardships -of a march in inclement weather had taken effect -upon the Baloch guard: expecting everything to be -done for them they endured seven days of wet and -wind before they could find energy to build a shed, and -they became almost mutinous because left to make -shelter for themselves. They stole the poultry of the -villagers like gipsies, they quarrelled violently with the -slaves, they foully abused their temporal superior, Said -bin Salim, and three of the thirteen were accused of -grossly insulting the women of the Wak’hutu. The -latter charge, after due investigation, was “not proven:” -we had resolved, in case of its being brought home, -severely to flog the culprits or to turn them out of -camp.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-128">[128]</span></p> - -<p>On the 27th July, Sayf bin Salim returned to Dut’humi -with his gang of thirty slaves, who also had distinguished -themselves by laying violent hands on sheep, -goats, and hens. Their patroon had offered to carry -our baggage half-way over the mountains to Ugogo, for -a sum of sixty dollars; thinking his conditions exorbitant, -I stipulated for conveyance the whole way. -He refused, declaring that he was about to organise -another journey up-country. I doubted his assertion, -as he was known to have audaciously defrauded Musa -Mzuri, an Indian merchant, who had entrusted him -with a large venture of ivory at Kazeh: yet he spoke -truth; nearly a year afterwards we met him on his -march to the “Sea of Ujiji.” During his visit he had -begged for drugs, tea, coffee, sugar, spices, everything, -but the stores were already far wasted by the improvidence -of the Goanese, who seemed to think that they -were living in the vicinity of a bazar. To punish me -for not engaging his gang, he caused the desertion of -nine porters hired at Dut’humi, by declaring that I was -bearing them into slavery. As they carried off, in -addition to half their pay, sundry sundries and Muinyi -Wazira’s sword, I sent three slave-musketeers to recover -the stolen goods per force if necessary. With respect -to the cloth, Sayf bin Salim wrote back to say that as I -could well afford the loss of a few “domestics,” he -would not compel the fugitives to restore it: at the -same time that he did himself the honour to return the -sword, which I might want. This man proved himself -the sole “base exception” to the hospitality and the -courteousness of the Omani Arabs. I forwarded an -official complaint to H. M. the Sayyid Majid, but the -arm of Zanzibar has not yet reached K’hutu.</p> - -<p>At Zungomero five fresh porters were engaged, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-129">[129]</span> -making up the whole party to a total of 132 souls. They -were drafted into the men of Muinyi Wazira, whose open -indulgence in stingo had made his society at meals distasteful -to Moslem sticklers for propriety. He was an -able interpreter, speaking five African dialects, which is -not, however, in these lands a remarkable feat, and -when sober, he did at first the work of three men. But -linguists are a dangerous race, as the annals of old India -prove:—I doubt a bilingual Eastern man, and if he -can speak three languages I do not doubt him at all. -Moreover, true to his semi-servile breed—his dam -was a Mzaramo slave, and his sire a half-caste Wawahili—he -began well and he finished badly. His deep undying -fondness for pombe or holcus beer, kept him in -alternate states of maudlin apathy or of violent pugnacity. -He had incurred heavy debts upon the coast. -After his arrival at Unyamwezi, letters were sent urging -upon the Arabs his instant arrest, but fortunately for -him the bailiff and the jailor are not, as the venerable -saying declares the schoolmaster to be, abroad. Muinyi -Wazira, however, did not sight the Sea of Ujiji in my -service, and his five messmates, who each received 15 -dollars’ worth of cloth for the journey thither and -back, were not more fortunate.</p> - -<p>Before marching from Zungomero into the mountains -I will order, for the reader’s inspection, a muster of the -party, and enlist his sympathies in behalf of the unhappy -being who had to lead it.</p> - -<p>Said bin Salim may pass on: he has been described -in Blackwood (February, 1858) and he scarcely deserves -a second notice. He is followed by his four slaves, including -the boy Faraj, who will presently desert, and -without including his acting wife, the lady Halimah. That -young person’s pug-dog countenance and bulky charms -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-130">[130]</span> -seem to engross every thought not appropriated to -himself. One day, however, my ears detect the loud -voice of wail proceeding from the lady Halimah, accompanying -methinks the vigorous performance of a -stick; the peccadillo was—but I eschew scandal and request -the lady to advance.</p> - -<p>My companion’s gun carrier, Seedy Mubarak Bombay, -a negro from Uhiao, has twice been sketched in Blackwood -(March, 1858 and September, 1859), he also -requires no further celebrity. My henchman, Muinyi -Mabruki, had been selected by his fellow-tribeman -Bombay at Zanzibar; he was the slave of an Arab -Shaykh, who willingly let him for the sum of 5 dollars per -mensem. Mabruki is the type of the bull-headed negro, -low-browed, pig-eyed, pug-nosed, and provided by nature -with that breadth and power, that massiveness and muscularity -of jaw, which characterise the most voracious -carnivors. He is at once the ugliest and the vainest -of the party: his attention to his toilette knows no limit. -His temper is execrable, ever in extremes, now wild -with spirits, then dogged, depressed, and surly, then -fierce and violent. He is the most unhandy of men, -he spoils everything entrusted to him, and presently -he will be forbidden to engage in any pursuit -beyond ass-leading and tent-pitching. These worthies -commenced well. They excited our admiration by -braving noon-day suns, and by snoring heavily -through the rawest night with nothing to warm them -but a few smouldering embers. In an evil hour compassion-touched, -I threw over their shoulders a pair -of English blankets, which in the shortest time completely -demoralised them. They learned to lie a-bed o’ -mornings, and when called up their shrugged shoulders -and shrinking forms were wrapped tightly round, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-131">[131]</span> -lest the breath of dawn should visit them too roughly. -Idleness marked them for her own: messmates and sworn -brothers; they made at the halt huts out of hail, lest -they should be called to do work. As a rule, however, -Englishmen have the art of spoiling Eastern servants: -we begin with the utmost stretch of exertion, and we -expect this high pressure system to last. Of course the -men’s energies are soon exhausted, their indolence and -apathy contrast with their former activity; we conceive -dislikes to them, and we end by dismissing them. This, -however, was not the case with Bombay and Mabruki. -They returned with us to Zanzibar, and we parted <i>à -l’aimable</i>, especially with the former, who, after a somewhat -protracted fit of the “blue devils,” became once -more, what he before had been, a rara avis in the lands, -an active servant and an honest man.</p> - -<p>Regard for the Indian perusers of these pages, who -know by experience how “banal” a character is the half-caste -oriental Portuguese, prevents my offering anything -but a sketch of Valentine A. and Gaetano B. -I had hired them at Bombay for Co.’s rs. 20 per -mensem, besides board and lodging. Scions of that -half Pariah race which yearly issues from Goa, Daman -and Diu to gather rupees as “cook boys,” dry-nurses, -and “buttrels,” in wealthy British India, the -hybrids had their faults: a pride of caste, and a contempt -for Turks and heathen, heretics and infidels, -which often brought them to grief; a fondness for acting -triton amongst the minnows; a certain disregard for the -seventh commandment, in the matter of cloth and -clothes, medicines and provisions; a constitutional repugnance -to “Signior Sooth;” a wastefulness of other -men’s goods, and a peculiar tenacity of their own; a deficiency -of bodily strength and constitutional vigour; a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-132">[132]</span> -voracity which induced indigestion once a day; and, -finally, a habit of frequent phlebotomy which, deferred, -made them sick. They had also their merits. Valentine -was a good specimen of the neat-handed and -ready-witted Indian: in the shortest time he learned to -talk Kisawahili sufficiently for his own purposes, and -to read a chronometer and thermometer sufficiently for -ours: he had, however, one blemish, an addiction to -“fudging,” which rendered the severest overseeing -necessary. A “Davy do a’ things,” he was as clever at -sewing a coat as at cooking a curry. Gaetano had a -curious kind of tenderness when acting nurse, and, -wonderful to relate, an utter disregard for danger: he -would return alone through a night-march of jungle to -fetch his forgotten keys, and would throw himself into -an excited mob of natives with a fearlessness which, -contrasted with his weakly body, never failed to turn -their wrath into merriment. He suffered severely from -the secondaries of fever, which, in his case, as in his -master’s, assumed a cerebral form. At Msene he was -seized with fits resembling epilepsy; and as he seemed -every month to become more addle-headed and scatter-brained, -more dirty and untidy, more wasteful and -forgetful, more loath to work without compulsion, and -more prone to start and feed the fire with ghee when -it was the scarcest of luxuries, I could not but attribute -many of his delinquencies to disease.</p> - -<p>The Baloch are now to appear. My little party were -servants of His Highness the Sayyid Majid of Zanzibar, -who had detached them as an escort upon the usual -“deputation-allowance” of ten dollars per mensem. -They had received the command of their master to -accompany me wherever I might please to march, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-133">[133]</span> -they had been rendered responsible to him for the -safety of my person and property. As has been mentioned, -Lieut.-Col. Hamerton had advanced to them before -departure a small sum for outfit, and had promised -them, on condition of good conduct, an ample reward -on the part of H. M.’s Government after return to -Zanzibar. These men were armed with the usual matchlock, -the Cutch sabre,—one or two had Damascus -blades,—the Indian hide-targe, decorated with its usual -tinsel, the long khanjar or dagger, extra matches, flints -and steels, and toshdan, or ammunition pouches, sensibly -distributed about their persons.</p> - -<p>The Jemadar Mallok led from Zanzibar seven warriors -of fame, yclept severally, Mohammed, Shahdad, -Ismail, Belok, Abdullah, Darwaysh, and the Seedy Jelai; -at Kaole he persuaded to follow his fortunes, Khudabakhsh, -Musa, Gul Mohammed, Riza, and Hudul a -tailor boy.</p> - -<p>The Jemadar Mallok is a monocular, and the Sanscrit -proverb declares:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Rare a Kana (one-eyed man) is a good man and sound,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Rare a ladye gay will be faithful found.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">Mallok is no exception to this rule of the “Kana.” He -is a man with fine Italian features, somewhat disfigured -by the small-pox: but his one eye never looks you -“in the face,” and there is an expression about the -mouth which forbids implicit trust in his honesty. He -proclaims himself to be somewhat fonder of fighting -than of feeding, yet suspicious circumstances led me to -believe that he was one of those whom the Arabs describe -as “first at the banquet and last at the brawl.” -He began with a display of zeal and activity which -died young; he lapsed, through grumbling and discontent, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-134">[134]</span> -into open insubordination as we progressed westward, -or from home; he became submissive and somewhat -servile as we returned to the coast, and when he took -leave of me he shed a flood of crocodile’s tears.</p> - -<p>Mohammed is the Rish Safid, or greybeard of the -caravan, and without a greybeard no eastern caravan -considers itself <i>en règle</i>. Of these indispensable veterans -I had two specimens; but of what use they were, -except to teach hot youth the cold caution of eld, I -never could divine,—<i>vieux soldat, vielle bête</i>. In the civilised -regiment age is not venerable in the private, as every -grey hair is a proof that he has not merited or has forfeited -promotion; so in the East, where there is a paucity -of competitors in the race of fortune, the Rish Safid -of humble fortune may be safely set down as a fool or a -foolish knave, and though his escort is sought, he generally -proves himself to be no better than he should have -been.</p> - -<p>Mohammed’s body is apparently hard as a rock, his -mind is soft as putty, and his comrades, disappointed in -their hopes of finding brains behind those wrinkles, -derisively compare him to a rotten walnut, and say -before his face, “What! grey hairs and no wits?” He -has invested the fifteen dollars advanced to him as outfit -by Lieut.-Col. Hamerton, in a slave-boy, whom presently -he will exchange for a slave-girl, despite all the -inuendoes of his friends. He was at first a manner of -peace-maker, but soon my refusal to enlist and pay -his slave as a hired porter acted like Ithuriel’s spear. -This veteran of fractious temper and miserly habits -ended, in a question of stinted rations, by drawing his -sabre upon and cutting at his Jemadar; an offence -which I was compelled to visit with a bastinado, inflicted -out of the sight of man by the hand of Khudabakhsh.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-135">[135]</span></p> - -<p>Shahdad is the Chelebi of the party, the fast young -man. He is decidedly not handsome. A figure short -and <i>trapu</i>, a retrussed nose, small pigs’ eyes, a beard -like a blackberry bush, and a crop of hair which, projecting -its wiry waves in a deep long curtain from beneath -a diminutive scarlet fez, makes his head appear -top-heavy. Yet he does sad havoc amongst female -hearts by means of his zeze or guitar, half a gourd with -an arm to which is attached a single string, and by his -lively accompaniment is a squeaking falsetto, which is -here as fascinating and emollient to the sex as ever -was the organ of Rubini in Europe. During a lengthened -sojourn at Bombay he has enlarged his mind by the -acquisition of the Hindostani tongue and of Indian -trickery. He is almost the only Eastern whom I remember -that abused the poor letter H like a thoroughbred -Londoner. His familiarity with Anglo-Europeans, -and his experience touching the facility of gulling them, -has induced in him a certain proclivity for peculation, -grumbling, and mutiny. His brother—or rather cousin, -for in these lands all fellow-tribesmen are brethren—“Ismail” -is a confirmed invalid, a man with a “broken -mouth,” deeply sunken cheeks, and emaciated frame, -who, though earnestly solicited to return eastwards, -will persist in accompanying the party till he falls a -victim to a chronic malady in Unyamwezi.</p> - -<p>Belok is our snob; a youth of servile origin, with -coarse features, wide mouth, everted lips, and a pert, or -rather an impudent expression of countenance, which, -acting as index to his troublesome character, at once -prejudices the physiognomist against him. Belok’s -comrades have reason to quote the Arab saw, “Defend -me from the beggar become wealthy, and from the slave -become a freeman!” He has invested his advance of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-136">[136]</span> -salary in a youth; and the latter serves and works for -the rest of the mess, who must patiently and passively -endure the insolence of the master for fear of losing the -offices of the man. After the fashion of a certain sort -of fools, he applies the whole of his modicum of wit to -mischief-making, and he succeeds admirably where -better men, whose thoughts attempt a wider range, -would fail. By his exertions the Baloch became, in -point of social intercourse, not unlike the passengers of -a ship bound on a long voyage: after the first month -the society divides itself into two separate and adverse -cliques; after the second it breaks up into little knots; -and after the third it is a chequer-work of pairs and -solitaires. Arrived at the “Pond of Ugogo,” I was -compelled to address an official letter to Zanzibar, requesting -the recal of Belok and his coadjutor in mischief, -Khudabakhsh.</p> - -<p>Abdullah is the type of the respectable, in fact, of -the good young man. It is really pathetic to hear him -recount, with accents broken by emotion, the “tale full -of waters of the eye,”—the parting of an only son, who -was led away to an African grave, from the aged widow -his mamma; to listen to her excellent advice, and to his -no less excellent resolves. He is capable of calling his -bride elect, were such article a subject ever to be mentioned -amongst Moslems, “his choicest blessing.” With -an edifying mingling of piety and discipline, he never -neglects the opportunity of standing in prayer behind -the Jemadar Mallok, whose elevation to a superior -grade—<i>honneur oblige!</i>—has compelled him to rub up -a superficial acquaintance with the forms of devotion. -Virtue in the abstract I revere; in the concrete I sometimes -suspect. The good young man soon justified this -suspicion by repeatedly applying to Said bin Salim for -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-137">[137]</span> -beads, in my name, which he converted to his own -purposes.</p> - -<p>Of Darwaysh little need be said. He is a youth -about twenty-two years old, with a bulging brow, a -pair of ferret-eyes, a “peaky” nose, a thin chin; in -fact, with a face the quintessence of curiosity. He -is the “brother”—that is to say, the spy—of the -Jemadar, and his principal peculiarity is a repugnance -to obeying an order because it is an order. With -this individual I had at first many a passage of words. -Presently prostrated in body and mind by severe disease, -he obtained relief from European drugs; and from -that time until the end of the journey, he conducted -himself with a certain stiffness and decorum which contrasted -pleasantly enough with the exceeding “bounce” -of his earlier career.</p> - -<p>The Seedy Jelai calls himself a Baloch, though palpably -the veriest descendant of Ham. He resents with -asperity the name of “Nigger,” or “Nig”—Jupiter -Tonans has heard of the offensive dissyllable, which was -a household word before the days of the Indian mutiny, -but has he heard of the more offensive monosyllable -which was forced upon the abbreviating Anglo-Saxon -by the fatal necessity of requiring to repeat the word -so frequently? Jelai clothes his long lank legs—cucumber-shinned -and bony-kneed—in calico tights, -which display the full deformity of those members; and -taking a pride in the length of his mustachios, which -distinguishes him from his African-born brethren, he -twists them <i>en croc</i> like a hidalgo in the days of Gil -Blas. The Seedy, judging from analogy, ought to be -brave, but he is not. On the occasion of alarm in the -mountains of Usagara, he privily proposed to his comrades -to “bolt” and leave us. Moreover, on the “Sea -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-138">[138]</span> -of Ujiji,” where he was chosen as an escort, he ignobly -deserted me.</p> - -<p>Khudabakhsh was formed by nature to be the best -man of the party; he has transformed himself into the -worst. A man of broad and stalwart frame, with stern -countenance, and a quietness of demeanour which -usually argues <i>sang-froid</i> and persistency, his presence -is in all points soldier-like and prepossessing. But his -temper is unmanageable: he enters into a quarrel when -certain of discomfiture; he is utterly reckless,—on one -occasion he amused himself by blowing a charge of -gunpowder into the calves of African warriors who -were dancing in front of him;—and lastly, his innate -propensity for backbiting, intrigue, and opposition to -all authority, render him a dangerous member of the -Expedition. He herds with Belok, whose tastes lie in -the same line: he is the head and front of all mischief, -and presently his presence will become insupportable.</p> - -<p>Musa, a tall, gaunt, and dark-brown old man, is the -assistant Rish Safid, or greybeard; in fact, the complement -of “Greybeard Mohammed.” After a residence -of twenty years at Mombasah, he has clean forgotten -Persian; he speaks only a debased Mekrani dialect, and -the Kisawahili, which, as usual with his tribe, he prefers. -An old soldier, he compensates for want of youth and -vigour by artfulness; an old traveller—nothing better -distinguishes in these lands the veteran of the road -from the griffin or greenhorn, than the careful and -systematic consideration of his comforts—he carries -the lightest matchlock, he starts in the cool of the -morning, he presses forward to secure the best quarters, -and throughout he thinks only of himself. His character -has a want of wrath, which, despite his white -hairs, causes him to be little regarded. Greybeard -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-139">[139]</span> -Mohammed is considered a fool; Greybeard Musa, an -old woman. Yet he troubles himself little about the -opinions of his fellows, he looks well after his morning -and evening meals, his ghee, his pipe, and his sleeping -mat; and knowing that he will last out all the novices, -with enviable philosophy he casts ambition to the -winds.</p> - -<p>Gul Mohammed is the most civilised man of the -party. He has straight and handsome features, of the -old Grecian type, a reddish-brown skin—the skin by -excellence—and a Central-Asian beard of largest dimensions. -His mind is as civilised as his body; he is an -adept after the fashion of his tribe, in divinity especially, -in medicine and natural history; and when landing -at Marka, he actually took the trouble to visit, for -curiosity, the Juba River. Unfortunately, “Gul Mohammed” -is a mixture of Baloch mountaineer-blood with -the Sindhian of the plain, and the cross is, throughout -the East, renowned for representing the worst points of -both progenitors. Gul Mohammed is brave and treacherous, -fair-spoken and detractive, honourable and dishonest, -good-tempered and bad-hearted.</p> - -<p>Of the Baloch remain Riza, and Hudul, the tailor-boy: -the former is a kind of Darwaysh, utterly insignificant, -but by no means so disagreeable as his fellows: -the only marking corporeal peculiarity of the latter is -a deficiency of skin; his mouth appears ever open, and -his teeth resemble those of an old rabbit. His mental -organisation has its <i>petite pointe</i>, its little twist; he is -under the constant delusion that those who speak in -unknown tongues are employed specially in abusing -him. His first complaint was against the Goanese: as -he could not understand a word of their language, it -was dismissed with some derision; he then charged me -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-140">[140]</span> -to his comrades with his normal grievance, and in due -time he felt aggrieved by my companion.</p> - -<p>A proper regard to precedence induces me now to -marshal the “sons of Ramji,” who acted as interpreters, -guides, and war-men. They were armed with the old -“Tower-musket,” which, loaded with nearly an ounce -of powder, they never allowed to quit the hand; and -with those antiquated German-cavalry sabres which -find their way over all the East: their accoutrements -were small leathern boxes, strapped to the waist, -and huge cow-horns, for ammunition. The most part -called themselves Muinyi (master), the title of an African -freeman, because they had been received in pawn by the -Banyan Ramji from their parents or uncles, who had -forgotten to redeem the pledge, and they still claimed the -honour of noble birth. Of these there were eight men -under their Mtu Mku, or chief man, Kidogo—Anglicè, -Mr. Little. Kidogo had preceded the Expedition, escorting -the detachment of thirty-six Wanyamwezi -porters to Zungomero, and he possessed great influence -over his brother slaves, who all seemed to admire and -to be proud of him. He was by no means a common -man. “Natione magis quam ratione barbarus;” he had -a fixed and obstinate determination: amongst these -puerile, futile African souls he was exceptional as “a -sage Sciote or a green horse.” His point of honour -consisted in the resolve that his words should be held -as Median laws, and he had, as the Africans say, a -“large head,” namely, abundant self-esteem, that -blessed quality which makes man independent of his -fellows. Muinyi Kidogo is a short, thin, coal-black -person, with a something arguing gentle blood in his -tribe, the Wadoe Cannibals; he has a peaked beard, a -bulging brow, close thin lips, a peculiar wall-eyed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-141">[141]</span> -roll of glance, and a look fixed, when unobserved, -with a manner of fascination which men felt. His -attitude is always humble and deprecatory, he drops -his chin upon the collar of reflection, he rarely speaks, -save in dulcet tones, low, plaintive, and modulated; yet -agreeing in every conceivable particular, he never fails -to introduce a most pertinacious “but,” which brings -him back precisely to his own starting-point. The -vehemence of his manner, and the violence of his -temper, win for him the fears of the porters; having -a wife and children in Unyamwezi, he knows well the -languages, the manners, and the customs of the people; -he never hesitates, when necessary, to enforce his mild -commands by a merciless application of the staff, or to -air his blade and to fly at the recusant like a wild cat. -In such moods, he is always seized by his friends, and -led forcibly away, as if dangerous. To insure some -regularity on the road, I ordered him to meet Said bin -Salim and Muinyi Wazira every evening at my tent, -for a “Mashauri,” or palaver, about the next day’s march -and halt. The measure was rendered futile by Kidogo, -who soon contrived so to browbeat the others, that -they would not venture an opinion in his presence. As -a chief, he would have been in the right position; as a -slave, he was falsely placed, because determined not to -obey. He lost no time in demanding that he and his -brethren should be considered Askári, soldiers, whose sole -duty it was to carry a gun; and he took the first opportunity -of declaring that his men should not be under the -direction of the Jemadar. Having received for answer -that we could not all be Sultans, he retired with a -“Ngema”—a “very well,” accompanied by a glance that -boded little good. From that hour the “sons of Ramji” -went wrong. Before, servilely civil, they waxed insolent; -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-142">[142]</span> -they learned their power—without them I must -have returned to the coast—and they presumed upon it. -They assumed the “swashing and martial outside” of -valiant men: they disdained to be “mechanical;” they -swore not to carry burdens; they objected to loading -and leading the asses; they would not bring up articles -left behind in the camp or on the road; they claimed the -sole right of buying provisions; they arrogated to themselves -supreme command over the porters; and they -pilfered from the loads whenever they wanted the -luxuries of meat and beer; they drank deep; and on -more than one occasion they endangered the caravan -by their cavalier proceedings with the fair sex. It was -“water-painting” to complain; they had one short -reply to all objections, namely, the threat of desertion. -Preferring anything to risking the success of the Expedition, -I was reduced to the bitter alternative of long-suffering, -but it was with the hope of a <i>revanche</i> at -some future time. The suffering was perhaps not -wholly patient. Orientals advise the traveller “to -keep his manliness in his pocket for braving it and -ruffling at home.” Such, however, is not exactly the -principle or the practice of an Englishman, who recognises -a primary duty of commanding respect for himself, -for his successors, and for the noble name of his -nation. On the return of the Expedition, Kidogo -proved himself a “serviceable villain,” but an extortionate; -anything committed to him was, as the Arabs -say, in “ape’s custody,” and the only remedy was to -remove him from all power over the outfit.</p> - -<p>Under the great Kidogo were the Muinyi Mboni, -Buyuni, Hayja, and Jako; these four took precedence -as being the sons of Diwans, whilst the commonalty was -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-143">[143]</span> -represented by the Muinyi Shehe, Mbaruko, Wulaydi, -and Khamisi.</p> - -<p>The donkey-men, five in number, had been hired at -the rate of thirty dollars per head for the whole time of -exploration. Their names were Musangesi, Sangora, -Nasibu, Hasani, and Saramalla. Of their natures little -need be said, except that they were a trifle less manageable -than the “sons of Ramji:” perfect models of servile -humanity, obstinate as asses and vicious as mules, -gluttonous and lazy, noisy and overbearing, insolent -and quarrelsome as slaves.</p> - -<p>Lowest in rank, and little above the asses even in their -own estimation, are the thirty-six Wanyamwezi Pagazi, -or porters, who formed the transport-corps. Concerning -these men and their burdens, a few words of explanation -will be necessary.</p> - -<p>In collecting a caravan the first step is to “make,” -as the people say, a “Khambi,” or kraal. The Mtongi, -or proprietor of the goods, announces, by pitching his -tent in the open, and by planting his flag, that he is -ready to travel; this is done because amongst the -Wanyamwezi a porter who persuades others to enlist -does it under pain of prosecution and fine-paying if a -death or an accident ensue. Petty chiefs, however, -and their kinsmen will bring with them in hope of promotion -a number of recruits, sometimes all the male -adults of a village, who then recognise them as headmen. -The next step is to choose a Kirangozi or guide. -Guides are not a peculiar class; any individual of influence -and local knowledge who has travelled the road before is -eligible to the post. The Kirangozi must pay his followers -to acknowledge his supremacy, and his Mganga -or medicine-man for providing him with charms and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-144">[144]</span> -prophylactics. On the march he precedes his porters, -and any one who breaks this rule is liable to a fine. -He often undergoes abuse for losing the way, for -marching too far or not far enough, for not halting at -the proper place, and for not setting out at the right -time. In return he enjoys the empty circumstance of -command, and the solid advantage of better food and a -present, which, however, is optional, at the end of the -journey: he carries a lighter load, and his emoluments -frequently enable him to be attended by a slave. The -only way of breaking the perverse and headstrong herd -into a semblance of discipline, is to support the Kirangozi -at all conjunctures, and to make him, if possible, -dole out the daily rations and portion the occasional -presents of meat.</p> - -<p>At the preliminary Khambi the Mtongi superintends -the distribution of each Muzigo or load. The Pagazi -or porters are mostly lads, lank and light, with the lean -and clean legs of leopards. Sometimes, however, a -herculean form is found with the bullet-head, the broad -bull-like neck, the deep wide chest, and the large strong -extremities that characterise the Hammal of Stamboul. -There is usually a sprinkling of greybeards, who might -be expected, as the proverb is, to be “leaning against -the wall.” Amongst these races, however, the older -men, who have learned to husband their strength, fare -better than their juniors, and the Africans, like the -Arabs, object to a party which does not contain -veterans in beard, age, and experience. In portioning -the loads there is always much trouble: each individual -has his favourite fancy, and must choose, or, at any -rate, must consent to his burden. To load porters -properly is a work of skill. They will accept at the -hand of a man who knows their nature a weight which, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-145">[145]</span> -if proposed by a stranger, would be rejected with grunts -of disgust. They hate the inconvenience of boxes, -unless light enough to be carried at both ends of a -“Banghi”-pole by one man, or heavy enough to be -slung between two porters. The burden must never -be under a fair standard, especially when of that description -that it decreases by expenditure towards the -end of the journey; a lightly-laden man not only becomes -lazy, he also makes his fellows discontented. The -nature of the load, however, causes an inequality of -weight. Cloth is tightly rolled up in the form of a -huge bolster, five feet long by eighteen to twenty-four -inches in diameter, protected against wear and weather -by Makanda or coarse matting of brab-leaf, and corded -over. This bundle is fastened, for the purpose of preserving -its shape and for convenience of stacking, in a -cradle of three or more flexible branches, cut from a -small tree below the place of junction, barked and -trimmed, laid along the length of the load, and -confined at the open end by a lashing of fibre-rope. -Besides his weapons and marching kit, a man will carry -a pack of two Frasilah or seventy pounds, and this -perhaps is the maximum. Beads are placed in long, -narrow bags of domestics, matted, corded, and cradled in -sticks like cloth; being a less elastic load, they are more -difficult to carry, and therefore seldom exceed fifty -pounds. Brass, and other wires, are carried in daur, -khata, or circles, lashed to both ends of a pole, which is -generally the large midrib of a palm-frond, with a fork -cut in its depth at one extremity to form a base for the -load when stacked, and provided at the point of junction -with a Kitambara or pad of grass, rag, or leather. -Wire is the lightest, as ivory is the heaviest, of loads. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-146">[146]</span> -The African porter will carry only the smallest burdens -upon his head, and the custom is mostly confined to -women and children. The merchants of course carry -nothing but themselves, except in extreme cases; but -when the sudden sickness or the evasion of a porter -endangers the safety of his load, they shoulder it without -hesitation. The chief proprietor usually follows -his caravan, accompanied by some of his partners and -armed slaves, to prevent the straggling which may -lead to heavy loss; he therefore often endures the -heat and tedium of the road longer than the rest of his -party.</p> - -<p>The loads of the Pagazi, it has appeared, are composed -of beads, cloth, and wire, which in this land of “round -trade” or barter, supply the wants of a circulating -medium, and they severally represent copper, silver, -and gold. For a detailed notice, the reader is referred -to the appendix; in this place a few general remarks -will suffice to set before him the somewhat complicated -use of the articles.</p> - -<p>Of beads there are about 400 varieties, some of which -have each three or four different names. The cheapest, -which form the staple of commerce, are the Hafizi, -Khanyera or Ushanga Waupe, a round white porcelain, -the price of which averages at Zanzibar 1 dollar per -5 or 6 lbs. avoirdupois. The most expensive are the -Samsam or Samesame, also called Joho (scarlet cloth), -Kimara-p’hamba (food-finishers), because a man will -part with his dinner to obtain them, and Kifunjyá-mji -(town-breakers), because the women will ruin themselves -and their husbands for them: these are the small coral-bead, -scarlet enamelled upon a white ground, they are of -fifteen different sizes, and the value at Zanzibar is from -13 to 16 dollars per 35 lbs. Beads are purchased from -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-147">[147]</span> -the Banyan monopolisers unstrung, and are afterwards -mounted by the merchant upon T’hembe, or threads of -palm-fibre; much depends for success in sale upon the -regularity and the attractiveness of the line. The -principal divisions are the bitil and the khete, which -may represent the farthing and the penny. The former -is a single length from the tip of the index to the wrist; -the latter, which comprises four of the former, is a -double length round the thumb to the elbow-bone, or what -is much the same, twice the circumference of the throat. -Ten khete compose the fundo or knot, which is used -in the larger purchases, and of these from two to three -were daily expended in our small expenses by the -Goanese servants, whilst the usual compensation for -rations to an African is a single khete. The utmost -economy should be exercised in beads: apparently exhaustless -a large store goes but a little way, and a man’s -load rarely outlasts a month. It is difficult to divine -what becomes of these ornaments: for centuries ton after -ton has been imported into the country, they are by no -means perishable substances, and the people carry, like -the Indians, their wealth upon their persons. Yet not -a third of the population was observed to wear any considerable -quantity; possibly the excessive demand in -the lands outlying direct intercourse with the coast, -tends to disperse them throughout the vast terra incognita -of the central African basin.</p> - -<p>The African preserves the instincts of infancy in the -higher races. He astonished the enlightened De Gama -some centuries ago by rejecting with disdain jewels, gold, -and silver, whilst he caught greedily at beads and other -baubles, as a child snatches at a new plaything. To the -present day he is the same. There is something painfully -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-148">[148]</span> -ludicrous in the expression of countenance, the intense -and all-absorbing admiration, and the greedy -wistfulness with which he contemplates the rubbish. -Yet he uses it as a toy: after sacrificing perhaps his -goat or his grain to become the happy possessor of a -khete, he will hang it round his neck for a few days, -and then, child-like, weary of the acquisition, he will do -his best to exchange it for another. In all bargains -beads must be thrown in, especially where women are -concerned: their sisters of civilisation would reproach -themselves with an unconscious lapse into the “nil admirari” -doctrines so hateful to the muscular system of -the age, and with a cold indifference to the charms of diamonds -and pearls, could they but witness the effect of a -string of scarlet porcelains upon the high-born dames in -Central Africa.</p> - -<p>The cloths imported into East Africa are of three -kinds, Merkani, Kaniki, and “cloths with names.”</p> - -<p>“Merkani,” in which we detect the African corruption -of American, is the article “domestics”—unbleached -shirting and sheeting from the mills near Salem. Kaniki, -is the common Indian indigo dyed cotton. “Cloths -with names,” as they are called by the Africans, are -Arab and Indian checks, and coloured goods, of cotton -or silk mixed with cotton. Of these the most common -is the Barsati, a dark blue cotton cloth with a broad -red stripe, which representing the dollar in the interior -is useful as presents to chiefs. Of double value is the -Dabwani, made at Maskat, a small blue and white check, -with a quarter breadth of red stripe, crossed with white -and yellow: this showy article is invariably demanded -by the more powerful Sultans for themselves and their -wives, whilst they divide the Merkani and Kaniki, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-149">[149]</span> -which composes their Honga—“blackmail” or dash—amongst -their followers.</p> - -<p>The people of East Africa, when first visited by the -Arabs, were satisfied with the coarsest and flimsiest -Kaniki imported by the Banyans from Cutch. When -American merchants settled at Zanzibar, Kaniki yielded -before the advance of “Merkani,” which now supplies -the markets from Abyssinia to the Mozambique. But -the wild men are fast losing their predilection for a -stuff which is neither comfortable nor durable, and in -many regions the tribes satisfied with goat-skins and -tree barks, prefer to invest their capital in the more attractive -beads and wire. It would evidently be advantageous -if England or her colonies could manufacture -an article better suited to the wants of the country than -that now in general use; but as long as the Indian -short-stapled cotton must be used, there is little probability -of her competing with the produce of the New -World.</p> - -<p>In Eastern Africa cotton cloth is used only for wear. -The popular article is a piece of varying breadth but -always of four cubits, or six feet, in length: the braça of -Portuguese Africa, it is called by the Arabs, shukkah, -by the Wasawahili, unguo, and in the far interior -upande or lupande. It is used as a loin-wrapper, and is -probably the first costume of Eastern Africa and of -Arabia. The plate borrowed from Montfaucon’s edition -of the “Topographia Christiana,” by Dr. Vincent (Part -I. Appendix to the Periplus) shows the Shukkah, to be -the general dress of Ethiopians, as it was of the Egyptians, -and the spear their weapon. The use of the Shukkah -during the Meccan pilgrimage, when the devotees cast -off such innovations as coats and breeches for the national -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-150">[150]</span> -garb of their ancestors, proves its antiquity -throughout the regions eastward of the Red Sea. On -the African coast the Shukkah Merkani is worth about -0·25 dollars = 1<i>s.</i> 0<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub><i>d.</i>, in the interior it rises to the -equivalent of a dollar (4<i>s.</i> <i>2d.</i>) and even higher. The -Kaniki is but little cheaper than the Merkani, when -purchased upon the sea-board; its increase of value in -the interior, however, is by no means in proportion to -its prime cost, and by some tribes it is wholly rejected. -A double length of Shukkah, or twelve feet, the article -worn by women who can afford it, is called a Doti, and -corresponds with the Tobe of Abyssinia and of the -Somali country. The whole piece of Merkani, which -contains from seven to eleven Doti, is termed a Jurah -or Gorah.</p> - -<p>After beads and piece-goods, the principal imports into -Eastern Africa, especially on the northern lines and in -the western portion of the great central route, are -Masango or brass wires of large sizes, Nos. 4 and 5. -They are purchased at Zanzibar, when cheap, at 12, -and when dear at 16, dollars per Frasilah of 35 lbs. -When imported up-country the Frasilah is divided -into three or four large coils, called by the Arabs -“daur,” and by the Africans “khata:” the object is -convenience of attachment to the porters’ banghy-poles. -Arrived at Unyanyembe they are converted by artisans -into the kitindi, or coil-bracelet, a peculiarly African -decoration. It is a system of concentric circles extending -from the wrist to the elbow; at both extremities it -is made to bulge out for grace and for allowing the -joints to play; and the elasticity of the wire keeps it in -its place. It weighs nearly 3 lbs., yet—“vanity knows -no sore”—the women of some tribes will wear four of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-151">[151]</span> -these bulky decorations upon their arms and legs. It -is mostly a feminine ornament. In the Lake Regions, -however, men assume the full-sized armlet, and in the -mountains of Usagara their wrists, arms, and ankles -are often decorated with half and quarter lengths, which -being without terminal bulges, appear to compress the -limbs painfully. At Unyanyembe the value of a -kitindi varies from two to four shukkah; at Ujiji, -where the ornament is in demand it rises to four or -five.</p> - -<p>The remainder of the live stock forming the <i>personnel</i> -of the caravan is composed of asses. At Zanzibar I -had bought five riding animals to mount the chiefs of the -party, including Said bin Salim and the Goanese. The -price varied from fifteen to forty dollars. Of the twenty-nine -asses used for carriage, only twenty remained -when the muster was made at Zungomero, and the rapid -thinning of their numbers by loss, death and accident -began to suggest uncomfortable ideas.</p> - -<p>The following “Equipment of the Expedition,” sent -by me to Mr. Francis Galton, the South African traveller, -and bearing date, “Camp Zungomero in Khutu, -Sunday, 2nd August, 1857,” is here republished: it -will assist the reader in picturing to himself the mass -of material which I am about to drag over the mountains.</p> - -<p><i>Provisions, &c.</i>—1 dozen brandy (to be followed by -4 dozen more); 1 box cigars; 5 boxes tea (each 6 -lbs.); a little coffee; 2 bottles curry stuff, besides -ginger, rock and common salt, red and black pepper, one -bottle each, pickles, soap, and spices; 20 lbs. pressed -vegetables; 1 bottle vinegar; 2 bottles oil; 20 lbs. -sugar (honey is procurable in the country).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-152">[152]</span></p> - -<p><i>Arms and Ammunition</i>, including 2 smooth bores, 3 -rifles, a Colt’s carbine, and 3 revolvers, spare fittings, -&c., and 3 swords. Each gun has its leather bag -with three compartments, for powder-flask, ball, caps, -patches, &c. 100 lbs. gunpowder (in 2 safety copper -magazines and others); 60 lbs. shot; 380 lbs. lead -bullets, cast of hardened material at the Arsenal, Bombay, -placed in boxes 40 lbs. each for convenience of -carriage, also to serve as specimen boxes, and screwed -down to prevent pilfering; 20,000 copper caps; wadding.</p> - -<p>The Baloch are armed with matchlocks, shields, -swords, daggers and knives. They have for ammunition—40 -lbs. gunpowder (4 kegs); 1000 lead bullets; -1000 flints for slaves’ muskets, and are to be followed by -about an equal quantity of ammunition.</p> - -<p><i>Camp Furniture.</i>—1 sepoy’s rowtie; 1 small (gable-shaped) -tent of two sails joined, to cover and shelter -property in this land of perpetual rains; 1 table and -chair; 1 tin Crimean canteen, with knives and forks, -kettle, cooking-pots, &c.; bedding, painted tarpaulin cover, -2 large cotton pillows for stuffing birds, 1 air pillow, 2 -waterproof blankets (most useful), 1 Maltese blanket -(remarkably good), and 2 other blankets; 1 cork bed, -with 2 pillows, 3 blankets, and mosquito net. The -Goanese have thick cotton padded mattresses, pillows, -and blankets, and all the servants have some kind of bedding. -3 solid leather portmanteaus for clothes and -books; 1 box, like an Indian petarah, for books; 1 -patent leather bag for books, washing materials, diaries, -drawing-books, &c.; 1 small couriers’ bag, for instruments, -&c.; 5 canvas bags for kit generally; 3 mats, -used as carpets.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-153">[153]</span></p> - -<p><i>Instruments.</i>—1 lever watch; 2 chronometers; 2 -prismatic compasses, slings, and stands; 1 ship’s azimuth -compass; 2 pocket compasses; 1 pocket thermometer; -1 portable sun-dial; 1 rain gauge; 1 evaporating -dish; 2 sextants and boxes, with canvas bags -to be slung over porters’ shoulders; 2 artificial horizons -(with a little extra mercury, to be followed by more); -1 pocket lens; 1 mountain barometer lent by Bombay -Geographical Society (very delicate); 3 thermometers; -1 measuring tape (100 ft.); 1 sounding lead; 2 boiling -thermometers; 1 box of mathematical instruments; -1 glass; 1 telescope; 2 ft. rule with brass slide; 1 -pocket pedometer by Dixie; 1 parallel ruler.</p> - -<p><i>Stationery.</i>—Foolscap paper; 1 ream common paper; -6 blank books; 3 Letts’ diaries; 2 dozen pencils; 6 -pieces caoutchouc; 6 metallic note books; 3 memorandum -ditto; 1 box wafers and sealing wax; 2 field -books; steel pens; quill ditto; ink powder which makes -up well without acid; 3 bottles ink; 1 bottle native -ink; 2 sets meteorological tables, blank; 4 tin cylinders -for papers (very bad, everything rusts in them); -Nautical Almanacs for 1857 and 1858; charts, Mr. -Cooley’s maps; “Mombas mission map”; skeleton maps; -table of stars; account book; portfolio; wooden and tin -cylinders for pens, &c.</p> - -<p><i>Tools.</i>—1 large turnscrew; 1 hand saw; 1 hammer; -20 lbs. nails; 1 hand vice; 1 hone; 9 hatchets (as a -rule every porter carries an axe); 2 files; 9 Jembe or -native hoe; 9 Mas’ha or native dibbles; 1 cold chisel; -1 heavy hammer; 1 pair pincers. To be followed by -1 bench vice; 1 hand ditto; 12 gimlets of sizes; 1 -18-inch stone grinder, with spindle and handle; 6 splitting -axes; 12 augers of sizes; 2 sets centre-bits, with -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-154">[154]</span> -stock; 12 chisels; 4 mortise chisels; 2 sets drills; 24 -saw files; 6 files of sorts; 4 gouges of sizes; 50 lbs. -iron nails; 2 planes, with 2 spare irons; 3 hand saws; -screws. These things were expected to be useful at the -lakes, where carpenters are in demand.</p> - -<p><i>Clothing, Bedding, and Shoes.</i>—Shirts, flannel and -cotton; turbans and thick felt caps for the head. (N.B. -not looking forward to so long a journey, we left Zanzibar -without a new outfit; consequently we were in tatters -before the end, and in a climate where flannel fights half -the battle of life against death, my companion was compelled -to invest himself in overalls of American domestics, -and I was forced to cut up blankets into coats -and wrappers. The Goanese also had laden themselves -with rags which would have been refused by a Jew; -they required to be re-clothed in Kaniki, or blue -cotton. African travel is no favourable opportunity for -wearing out old clothes; the thorny jungles, and the -practice of packing up clothes wet render a double outfit -necessary for long journeys. The second should be -carried packed up in tin—flannel-shirts, trousers and -stocks, at least six of each,—not to be opened till required.</p> - -<p>The best bedding in this country would be a small -horsehair mattrass with two blankets, one thick the -other thin, and mosquito curtains that would pack into -the pillow. A simple carpet-bag without leathern or -other adjuncts, should contain the travelling clothes, -and all the bedding should roll up into a single bundle, -covered with a piece of waterproof canvass, and tightly -bound with stout straps.</p> - -<p>As regards shoes, the best would be ammunition -boots for walking and jack boots for riding. They -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-155">[155]</span> -must be of light colour, and at least one size too large -in England; they should be carefully protected from -external air which is ruinous to leather, and they must -be greased from time to time,—with fat not with oil—otherwise -they will soon become so hard and dry, that -it is impossible to draw them on unless treated after the -Indian plan, viz. dipped in hot water and stretched -with a stuffing of straw.)</p> - -<p><i>Books and Drawing Materials.</i>—Norie; Bowdich; -Thompson’s ‘Lunar Tables;’ Gordon’s ‘Time Tables;’ -Galton’s ‘Art of Travel;’ Buist’s ‘Manual of Observation;’ -Jackson’s ‘What to Observe;’ Jackson’s ‘Military -Surveying;’ ‘Admiralty Manual;’ Cuvier’s ‘Animal -Life;’ Prichard’s ‘History of Man;’ Keith’s ‘Trigonometry;’ -Krapf’s ‘Kisuaheli Grammar;’ Krapf’s -‘Kinika Testament;’ Amharic Grammar (Isenberg’s); -Belcher’s ‘Mast Head Angles;’ Cooley’s ‘Geography of -N’yassi;’ and other miscellaneous works; 1 paint-box -complete, soft water colours; 1 small ditto, with Chinese -ink, sepia and Prussian blue; 2 drawing books; 1 large -drawing book; 1 camera lucida.</p> - -<p><i>Portable domestic Medicine Chest.</i>—Vilely made. -Some medicines for natives in packages. Application -was made to Zanzibar for more quinine, some morphia, -Warburg’s drops, citric acid, and chiretta root.</p> - -<p><i>Miscellaneous.</i>—10 pieces scarlet broad-cloth for presents -(3 expended); 3 knives for servants; 4 umbrellas; -1 hank salmon gut; 1 dozen twisted gut; 1 lb. bees’ -wax; courier’s box with brass clasps to carry sundries -on the road; 2 dozen penknives; 2000 fishing hooks; -42 bundles fishing line; 2 lanterns (policeman’s bull’s -eye and common horn); 2 iron ladles for casting lead; -1 housewife, with buttons, needles, thread, silk, pins, &c.; -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-156">[156]</span> -12 needles (sailor’s) and palms; 2 pair scissors; 2 razors; -1 hone; 2 pipes; 1 tobacco pouch; 1 cigar case; 7 -canisters of snuff; 1 filter; 1 pocket filter; 1 looking-glass; -1 small tin dressing-case, with soap, nail-brush -and tooth-brush (very useful); brushes and combs; -1 union jack; arsenical paste for specimens; 10 steels -and flints.</p> - -<p>Life at Zungomero I have said was the acme of discomfort. -The weather was, as usual at the base of the -mountains, execrable; pelting showers descended in a -succession, interrupted only by an occasional burst of fiery -sunshine which extracted steam from the thick covert -of grass, bush, and tree. The party dispersing throughout -the surrounding villages, in which it was said about -1000 travellers were delayed by the inundations, drank -beer, smoked bhang, quarrelled amongst themselves, and -by their insolence and violence caused continual complaints -on the part of the villagers. Both the Goanese -being prostrated with mild modifications of “yellow -jack,” I was obliged to admit them into the hut, which -was already sufficiently populated with pigeons, rats, and -flies by day, and with mosquitos, bugs, and fleas, by -night. At length weary of waiting the arrival of the -twenty-two promised porters, we prepared our papers, -which I committed to the confidential slave of a coast -Diwan, here dwelling as caravan-touter, for his uncle -Ukwere of Kaole. His name was somewhat peculiar, -Chomwi la Mtu Mku Wambele, or the “Headman Great -Man of Precedence;”—these little Jugurthas have all -the titles of emperors, with the actual power of country -squires;—he never allowed himself to appear in public -sober, and to judge from the list of stations with which -he obliged me—of eighteen not one was correct—I hesitated -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-157">[157]</span> -to entrust his slave with reports and specimens. -But the Headman Great Man of Precedence did as he -promised to do, and as his charge arrived safely, I here -make to him the “amende honorable.”</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoi-9"> - -<img src="images/i_illo183.jpg" alt="" /> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption">A village in K’hutu.</p> -</div> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption">The Silk Cotton Tree.</p> -</div> - -<p class="thinline allclear"> </p> - -</div><!--split5050--> - -</div><!--container--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-158">[158]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoi-10"> -<img src="images/i_illo184.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Sycomore in the Dhun of Ugogi.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. VI.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">WE CROSS THE EAST AFRICAN GHAUTS.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">On the 7th August, 1857, the Expedition left Zungomero. -We were martyred by miasma; my companion and I -were so feeble, that we could scarcely sit our asses, and -weakness had almost deprived us of the sense of hearing. -It was a day of severe toil. We loaded with -difficulty, for the slaves and porters did not assemble -till past 8 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, and instead of applying for their loads -to Said bin Salim, every man ran off with the lightest -burden or the easiest ass.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Illoi-5"> -<img src="images/i_illo185.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE EAST AFRICAN GHAUTS.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-159">[159]</span></p> - -<p>From Central Zungomero to the nearest ascent of the -Usagara Mountains is a march of five hours. The route, -emerging from the cultivated districts, leaves to the -right the Wigo Hills, so called, probably, from the fishing -weirs in the stagnant waters below, and in the -Mgeta River, which flows through the plain. On the -left, and distant four or five miles, is a straggling line -of low cones: at the foot of one, somewhat larger than -its neighbours, rises the thermal spring known to the -people as the Maji ya W’heta, the Geyser, jetting-water, -or <i>fontaine qui bouille</i>. Its position is a gentle slope -between the hill-base and a dwarf Savannah which is -surrounded by high walls of jungly forest, and the water-shed -is from south to north. The hot water boils and -bubbles out of a white sand, here and there stained and -encrusted with oxide of iron. Upon the surface lie -caked and scaly sheets of calcareous tufa, expressed by -the spring, and around it are erratic boulders blackened -probably by the thermal fumes. The earth is dark, -sometimes sandy, and sprinkled over with fragments of -quartzite and sandstone; in other places a screen of brab-tree -backs a bold expanse of ground, treacherous, boggy, -and unstable as water. The area is about 200 feet in -diameter, and the centre of ebullition is unapproachable, -owing to the heat and the instability of the soil. According -to the guides, it is subject to occasional eruptions, -when the water bursts out with violence, and -fragments of lime are flung high in the air. Animals -are said to refuse it, and tales are told of wild beasts -having been bogged in the seething mire.</p> - -<p>With the Mgeta thrown on the left hand, we passed -by a path almost invisible, through dense grass and -trees, and presently we entered the luxuriant cultivation -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-160">[160]</span> -surrounding the westernmost villages of K’hutu. -As the land beyond this point, for three long marches, -lies barren, the slaves and porters had comfortably -housed themselves. The prospect of another night in -the plains made me desperate; I dislodged them, and -persuaded them to advance once more. The settlements -were of the most miserable description; many -were composed of a few sticks lashed together at the top, -and loosely covered with a few armfuls of holcus-cane. -Here we sighted the cocoa-tree for the last time. The -rats were busy in the fields, and the plundered peasants -were digging them out for food. At almost every -corner of the deeply-pitted path stood a mtego, or trap -for small birds, a cage of rush or split bamboo planted -in the ground near some corn, where a boy lies waiting -till the prey nibbles at the bait, and then creeping up, bars -with his hand the little doorway left in one of the sides. -Beyond the villages the path forded six times the sandy -bed of the Mgeta, whose steep and slippery banks supported -dense screens of shrub and grass. Beyond the -sixth passage, the road falls into the gravelly river-shoals, -with the stream flowing in the other half of the -course, under well-wooded masses of primitive hill. -After again thrice fording the cold and muddy water, -which even in the dry season is here ankle, there foot-deep, -the road passed some clearings where porcupines -and the African red squirrel, a sturdy little animal, -with a long thick fur of dark brown, shot with green -on the back, and a bright red waistcoat, muzzle, and -points, were observed. About noon we diverged a few -yards from the Mgeta, and ascended the incline of the -first gradient in Usagara, rising about 300 feet from -the plain below. This, the frontier of the second region, -or ghauts, and the debris encumbering the lowest -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-161">[161]</span> -escarpment, is called Mzizi Mdogo, or the “Little Tamarind,” -to distinguish it from the “Great Tamarind” -station which lies beyond. There was no vestige of -building upon the spot—no sight nor sound of man—the -blood-feud and the infernal slave-trade had made a -howling desert of the land. We found, however, a -tattered kraal erected by the last passing caravan, and, -spent with fatigue, we threw ourselves on the short grass -to rest. The porters and the asses did not appear till -the evening, when it became apparent that two of the -latter had been lost by their drivers, Hayja and Khamisi, -sons of Ramji, who preferred sitting in the -shade, and chatting with passing caravans, to the sore -task of doing their duty. The animals were recovered -on the morrow, by sundry parties sent in search. During -the fordings of the Mgeta, however, they had not been unpacked; -our salt and sugar, therefore, had melted away; -soap, cigars, mustard, and arsenical paste, were in pulp; -the tea was spoiled, the compressed vegetables presently -became musty, and the gunpowder in a fire-proof copper -magazine was caked like stale bread.</p> - -<p>There was a wondrous change of climate at Mzizi -Mdogo; strength and health returned as if by magic; -even the Goanese shook off the obstinate bilious remittents -of Zungomero. Truly delicious was the escape -from the nebulous skies, the fog-driving gusts, the pelting -rain, the clammy mists veiling a gross growth of -fetor, the damp raw cold, rising as it were from the -earth, and the alternations of fiery and oppressive -heat; in fact, from the cruel climate of the river-valley, -to the pure sweet mountain-air, alternately soft and -balmy, cool and reviving, and to the aspect of clear -blue skies, which lent their tints to highland ridges -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-162">[162]</span> -well wooded with various greens. Dull mangrove, dismal -jungle, and monotonous grass, were supplanted by -tall solitary trees, amongst which the lofty tamarind -rose conspicuously graceful, and a card-table-like -swamp, cut by a network of streams, nullahs, and stagnant -pools, gave way to dry healthy slopes, with short -steep pitches, and gently shelving hills. The beams of -the large sun of the equator—and nowhere have I seen -the rulers of night and day so large—danced gaily upon -blocks and pebbles of red, yellow, and dazzling snowy -quartz, and the bright sea-breeze waved the summits -of the trees, from which depended graceful llianas, and -wood-apples large as melons, whilst creepers, like vine -tendrils, rising from large bulbs of brown-grey wood, -clung closely to their stalwart trunks. Monkeys played at -hide-and-seek, chattering behind the bolls, as the iguana, -with its painted scale-armour, issued forth to bask upon -the sunny bank; white-breasted ravens cawed when disturbed -from their perching-places; doves cooed on the -well-clothed boughs, and hawks soared high in the transparent -sky. The field-cricket chirped like the Italian -cigala in the shady bush, and everywhere, from air, -from earth, from the hill slopes above, and from the -marshes below, the hum, the buzz, and the loud continuous -voice of insect life, through the length of the -day, spoke out its natural joy. Our gipsy encampment -lay</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“By shallow rivers, to whose falls<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Melodious birds sing madrigals.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p>By night, the soothing murmurs of the stream at the -hill’s base rose mingled with the faint rustling of the -breeze, which at times broken by the scream of the night-heron, -the bellow of the bull-frog in his swampy home, the -cynhyæna’s whimper, and the fox’s whining bark, sounded -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-163">[163]</span> -through the silence most musical, most melancholy. Instead -of the cold night rain, and the soughing of the blast, -the view disclosed a peaceful scene, the moonbeams lying -like sheets of snow upon the ruddy highlands, and the -stars hanging like lamps of gold from the dome of infinite -blue. I never wearied with contemplating the -scene, for, contrasting with the splendours around me, -still stretched in sight the Slough of Despond, unhappy -Zungomero, lead-coloured above, mud-coloured below, -wind-swept, fog-veiled, and deluged by clouds that -dared not approach these Delectable Mountains.</p> - -<p>During a day’s halt at this sanitarium fresh diversions -agitated the party. The Baloch, weary of worrying one -another, began to try their ’prentice hands upon the -sons of Ramji, and these fortified by the sturdy attitude -of Muinyi Kidogo, manfully resolved to hold their own. -The asses fought throughout the livelong night, and, -contrary to the custom of their genus, strayed from one -another by day. And as,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“When sorrows come, they come not single spies,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">But in battalions,”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">Said bin Salim, who hated and was hated by the Baloch, -on account of their divided interests, began to hate -and to be hated by the sons of Ramji. His four -children, the most ignoble of their ignoble race, were -to him as the apples of his eyes. He had entered -their names as public porters, yet, with characteristic -egotism and self-tenderness, he was resolved that they -should work for none but their master, and that even in -this their labour should as much as possible fall upon -the shoulders of others. His tent was always the first -pitched and his fire the first built; his slaves were rewarded -with such luxuries as ghee, honey, and turmeric, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-164">[164]</span> -when no one in camp, ourselves included, could procure -them. When all wanted clothes he clad his children -out of the outfit as if it had been his own, and, till -strong remonstrances were made, large necklaces of -beads decked their sooty necks. On the return-march -he preferred to pay hire for three porters rather than to -allow the fat lazy knaves to carry a bed or a few gourds. -They became of course insolent and unmanageable—more -than once they gave trouble by pointing their muskets -at the Baloch and the porters, and they would draw -their knives and stab at a man who refused to give up his -firewood or his hearth-stones, without incurring a word of -blame from their master. Encouraged by impunity they -robbed us impudently; curry-stuff was soon exhausted, -the salt-bottles showed great gaps, and cigar-ends were -occasionally seen upon the road-side. The Goanese accused -the slaves, and the slaves the Goanese; probably -both parties for once spoke the truth.</p> - -<p>Said bin Salim’s silly favouritism naturally aroused -the haughty Kidogo’s bile; the sons of Ramji, consequently, -worked less than before. The two worthies, -Arab and African, never, however, quarrelled, no harsh -word passed between them; with smiles upon their faces, -and a bitter hate at heart, they confined themselves to all -manner of backbiting and talebearing. Said bin Salim -sternly declared to me that he would never rest satisfied -until Kidogo’s sword was broken and his back was scarified -at the flagstaff of Zanzibar; but I guessed that -this “wrathful mouse and most magnanimous dove” -would, long before his journey’s end, have forgotten all -his vengeance. Kidogo asserted that the Muarabu or -Arab was a green-horn, and frequently suggested the -propriety of “planting” him. At last this continual harping -upon the same chord became so offensive, that B’ana -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-165">[165]</span> -Saidi was forbidden to pronounce the name of Muinyi -Kidogo, and Muinyi Kidogo was ordered never to utter -the words B’ana Saidi before the exasperated leader of -the Expedition, who could not, like these squabblers, complain, -resent, forget and forgive, in the short space of a -single hour.</p> - -<p>We left Mzizi Mdogo on the 9th August, much -cheered by the well-omened appearance of a bird with -red bill, white breast, and long tail-feathers. The path -ran over a succession of short steep hills with a rufous-brown -soil, dotted with blocks and stones, thinly veiled -with grass, and already displaying signs of aridity in -the growth of aloetic and thorny plants, the Cactus and -the larger Asclepias, the Euphorbia or Spurge-wort, and -the stunted Mimosa. The Calabash, however, still rose -a stately tree, and there was a sprinkling of the fine -Tamarinds which have lent their name to the district. -The Tamarind, called by the Arabs of Zanzibar -“Subar,” extends from the coast to the Lake Regions: -with its lofty stem, its feathery leaflets, and its branches -spreading dark cool shade, it is a beautiful feature in -African landscape. The acidulated fruit is doubtless a -palliative and a corrective to bilious affections. The -people of the country merely peel and press it into bark -baskets, consequently it soon becomes viscid, and is -spoiled by mildew; they ignore the art of extracting -from it an intoxicating liquor. The Arabs, who use -it extensively in cooking, steam, sun-dry, and knead -it, with a little salt and oil to prevent the effects of -damp, into balls: thus prepared and preserved from the -air, it will keep for years.</p> - -<p>On the way we were saddened by the sight of the -clean-picked skeletons, and here and there the swollen -corpses, of porters who had perished in this place of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-166">[166]</span> -starvation. A single large body which had lost fifty of -its number by small-pox, had passed us but yesterday on -the road, and the sight of their deceased comrades recalled -to our minds terrible spectacles; men staggering on -blinded by disease, and mothers carrying on their backs -infants as loathsome objects as themselves. The wretches -would not leave the path, every step in their state of -failing strength was precious; he who once fell would -never rise again; no village would admit death into its -precincts, no relation nor friend would return for them, -and they would lie till their agony was ended by the -raven and vulture, the Fisi and the fox. Near every -Khambi or Kraal I remarked detached tents which, -according to the guides, were set apart for those seized -with the fell disease. Under these circumstances, as -might be expected, several of our party caught the infection; -they lagged behind and probably threw themselves -into some jungle, for the path when revisited -showed no signs of them.</p> - -<p>We spent 4 hrs. 30′ in weary marching, occasionally -halting to reload the asses that threw their -packs. Near the Mgeta River, which was again -forded six times, the vegetation became tall and thick, -grasses obstructed the path, and in the dense jungle on -the banks of the stream, the Cowhage (<i>Dolichos pruriens</i>,) -and stiff reeds known as the “wild sugar-cane,” annoyed -the half-naked porters. Thus bounded and approached -by muddy and slippery, or by steep and stony -inclines, the stream shrank to a mountain torrent, in -places hardly fifty feet broad; the flow was swift, the -waters were dyed by the soil a ruddy brown, and the -bed was sandy and sometimes rocky with boulders of -primitive formation, streaked with lines of snow-white -quartz. Near the end of the marsh we ascended a short -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-167">[167]</span> -steep staircase of rock and root, with a dwarf precipice -overhanging the river on the right, which was dangerous -for the laden beasts as they crawled like beetles up the -path. At 3 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> we arrived at a kraal called Cha -K’henge—of the iguana, from the number of these animals -found near the stream. It was a delightful spot, -equal to Mzizi Mdogo in purity of air, and commanding -a fair prospect of the now distant Dut’humi Highlands.</p> - -<p>The next day was a forced halt at Cha K’henge. Of -two asses that had been left behind one was recovered, -the other was abandoned to its fate. The animals purchased -at Zanzibar were falling off visibly in condition. -Accustomed to a kind of grass which nowhere grows -upon these sunburnt hills, they had regular feeds of -holcus, but that, as Said bin Salim expressed himself, was -only coffee to them. The Wanyamwezi asses, however, -managed to pick a sustenance from the rushes and from -the half-burned stubbles, when fortunate enough to find -any. Sickness again declared itself. Shahdad the -Baloch bellowed like a bull with fever pains, Gaetano complained -that he was suffering tortures generally, two of -the Wanyamwezi were incapacitated by the symptoms -preliminary to small-pox from carrying their packs, -and a third was prostrated by ague. We started, however, -on the next day for a long march which concluded, -the passage of the “Tamarind Hills.” Crossing a -country broken by dry nullahs, or rather ditches, we -traversed a seam of forest with a deep woody ravine on -the right, and twice unpacked and reloaded the asses, -who lay down instead of breasting the difficulties: a -muddy swamp full of water-courses, and the high earth-banks -of the Rufuta a Fiumara, here dry during the -hot season. Thence, winding along a hill-flank, to avoid -a bend in the bed, the path plunged into the sole of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-168">[168]</span> -Rufuta. This main-drain of the lower gradients carries -off, according to the guides, the waters of the high -ground around it into the Mgeta. The bed, which -varies from three to sixteen feet in breadth, serpentines -abruptly through the hills: its surface is either deep -sand or clay, sopped with water, which near the head -becomes a thin fillet, ankle-deep, now sweet, then salt: the -mud is tinged in places with a solution of iron, showing, -when stagnant, prismatic and iridescent tints. Where -narrowest, the tall grasses of the banks meet across the -gut, which, after a few yards of short, sharp winding, -opens out again. The walls are in some parts earth, in -others blocks of gray syenite, which here and there encumber -the bed: on the right, near the end of the stage, -the hills above seem to overhang the Fuimara in almost -perpendicular masses of sandstone, from whose chinks -spring the gnarled roots of tall trees corded with creepers, -overgrown with parasites; and hung with fruits like footballs, -dangling from twines sometimes thirty feet long. -The lower banks, where not choked with rush, are overgrown -with the brightest verdure, and with the feathery -bamboo rising and falling before the wind. The corpses -of porters were even more numerous than on the yester: -our Muslems passed them with averted faces and with -the low “la haul!” of disgust, and a decrepid old -Mnyamwezi porter gazed at them and wept for himself. -About 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, turning abruptly from the bed, we crawled -up a short stony steep strewed with our asses and their -loads; and reaching the summit of a dwarf cone near -the foot of the “Goma Pass,” we found the usual outlying -huts for porters dying of small-pox, and an old -kraal, which we made comfortable for the night. In the -extensive prospect around, the little beehive villages of -the Wakaguru and the Wakwivi, sub-tribes of the Wasagara, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-169">[169]</span> -peeped from afar out of the forest nooks on the -distant hill-folds. The people are rich in flocks and -grain, but a sad experience has taught them to shun -intercourse with all strangers, Arabs and Wasawahili, -Wamrima and Wanyamwezi. In happier days the road -was lined with large villages, of which now not a trace -remains.</p> - -<p>A Boiling Point Thermometer by Cox, the gift of -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, and left with him by Captain, -now Admiral Smyth, F. R. G. S., who had used it in measuring -the Andes, had been accidentally broken by my -companion at Cha K’henge. Arrived at Rufuta, I found -that a second B. P. by Newman, and a Bath-Thermometer -by the same maker, had been torn so violently -from their box that even the well-soldered handles were -wrenched off. But a few days afterwards our third -B. P. was rendered useless by the carelessness of Gaetano. -Thus, of the only three really accurate hypsometrical -instruments which we possessed,—the Barometer -had come to grief, and no aneroid had been sent -from Bombay—not one was spared to reach the Lake. -We saved, however, two Bath-Thermometers marked -Newman, and Johnson and Co., Bombay, which did good -service, and one of which was afterwards corrected by -being boiled at sea-level. I may here observe that on -such journeys, where triangulation is impossible, and -where the delicate aneroid and the Mountain Barometer -can scarcely be carried without accident, the thermometer -is at present the traveller’s stand-by. It abounds, however, -in elements of error. The elasticity of the glass, -especially in a new instrument, causes the mercury to -subside below the graduated scale. The difference of -level in a covered “shaving-pot” and in an open pan -exposed to the wind, will sometimes amount to 1° F. = -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-170">[170]</span> -500 feet: they therefore are in error who declare that -any vessel suffices for the purpose of boiling. Finally, -in all but the best instruments the air is not thoroughly -expelled from the tube: indeed some writers, -Dr. Buist, for instance, actually advise the error.</p> - -<p>Another ass was left at Rufuta unable to stand, and -anxiously eyeing its stomach, whereby the Baloch conjectured -that it was dying of a poisonous grass. Having -to ascend on the 12th August the Goma Pass of the -Rufuta, or the Eastern Range, I had arranged with -Kidogo and the Kirangozi, or guide, that the porters -should proceed with their packs, and after topping the -hill, should return, for a consideration, to assist the asses. -None, however, reappearing, when the sun had risen a -spear’s length we set out, hugging the hill-flanks, with -deep ravines yawning on the right. Presently after passing -through a clear forest of tall scattered trees, between -whose trunks were visible on both sides in perspective, -far below, long rolling tracts of well-wooded land broken -by ravines and cut by water-courses, we arrived at the -foot of a steep hill. The ascent was a kind of ramp, -composed of earth-steps, clods bound by strong tenacious -roots, and thickly strewn with blocks of schiste, -micacious grit, and a sandstone showing the presence -of iron. The summit of this “kloof” was ascertained -to rise 2,235 feet above sea-level. It led to an easy -descent along the flank of a hill commanding on the -left hand, below a precipitous foreground, a fine bird’s-eye -view of scattered cone and wavy ridge rising and -falling in a long roll, and on a scale decreasing till they -settled into a line of hazy-blue horizon, which had all -the effect of a circumambient ocean. We reached -the remains of a kraal on the summit of a dwarf hill -called Mfu’uni, from the abundance of the Mfu’u tree, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-171">[171]</span> -which bears an edible apple externally like the smallest -“crab,” but containing a stone of inordinate proportions: -below the encamping ground the Pagazi found -a runnel of pure water, which derived its name from -the station. In former times Mfu’uni was a populous -settlement; the kidnapping parties from the coast, and -especially the filibusters of Whinde, have restored it to -the fox and the cynhyæna, its “old inhabitants.” I -spent a sleepless night in watching each star as it sank -and set in its turn, piercing with a last twinkle the thin -silhouette of tall trees that fringed the hilly rim of the -horizon, and in admiring the hardness of the bull-headed -Mabruki, as he lay half-roasted by the fire and -half-frozen by the cold southern gale.</p> - -<p>Rations had been issued at K’hutu to all hands for -three days, the time in which they expected to make the -principal provisioning-place, “Muhama.” They had -consumed, as usual, their stores with the utmost possible -quickness; it was our fifth day, and Muhama was still -a long march distant. On the 13th August, therefore, -in that hot haste which promises cold speed, we loaded -at dawn, and ascended the last step of the pass by an -easy path. The summit was thickly wooded; the hills -were crowned with trees; the ravines were a mass of -tangled verdure; and from the Dub (<i>Cynodon dactylon</i>, a -nutritive and favourite food for cattle in India) and other -grasses arose a sickening odour of decay. A Scotch mist, -thick and raw, hung over the hill-tops, and about 10 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> -a fiery outburst of sunshine told severely upon hungry -and fever-stricken men. From the level table-summit of -the range the route descended rapidly at first, but presently -stretching out into gentle slopes, totally unlike -the abrupt eastern or seaward face of the mountains: I -counted twelve distinct rises and fifteen falls, separated -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-172">[172]</span> -by tree-clad lines of half-dried nullahs, which were -choked with ill-savoured weeds. We halted every -quarter of an hour to raise and reload the asses; -when on the ground, they were invariably abandoned -by the donkey-men. My companion’s bedding was -found near the path, where it had been left by its -porter, a slave given at Zungomero to Muinyi Wazira -by his drunken brother. The fellow had been sworn -by his mganga, or medicine-man, not to desert, and -he had respected his oath for the long length of a week. -A dispute with another man, however, had irritated -him: he quietly threw his burden, and ran down the -nearest steep, probably to fall into the hands of the Wakwivi. -As the rain-catching peaks were left behind, the -slopes of dry soil began to show sunburnt herbage and -tufty grass. Signs of lions appeared numerous, and -the cactaceous and aloetic plants that live on arid soil -again met the eye. About noon we forded the little -Zonhwe River, a stream of sweet water here flowing -westward, in a bed of mire and grass, under high banks -bearing a dense bush. Two hours afterwards I suddenly -came upon the advance-guard, halted, and the -asses unloaded, in a dry water-course, called in the map, -from our misadventure, “Overshot Nullah.” A caravan -of Wanyamwezi had misdirected them, Muinyi Wazira -had in vain warned them of their error, he was overruled -by Kidogo, and the Baloch had insisted upon -camping at the first place where they expected to find a -spring. Like all soft men, they were most impatient of -thirst, and nothing caused so much grumbling and discontent -as the cry of “Maji mb’hali!” (water is far!) -That night, therefore, after a long march of fifteen miles, -they again slept supperless.</p> - -<p>On the 14th of August we loaded early, and through -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-173">[173]</span> -spitting rains from the south-east hills we marched back -for two hours from the Overshot Nullah to Zonhwe, the -small and newly-built settlement which we had missed -on the preceding day. Several of the porters had disappeared -during the night. Men were sent in all directions -for provisions, which came in, however, slowly and -scantily; and the noise made by the slaves—they -were pulling down Said bin Salim’s hut, which had -accidentally caught fire—frightened away the country-people. -We were, therefore, detained in this unwholesome -spot for two days.</p> - -<p>Zonhwe was the turning-point of the Expedition’s -difficulties. Another ass had died, reducing the number -to twenty-three, and the Baloch, at first contented with -two, doubled their requirements, and on the 14th August -took a fifth, besides placing all their powder -upon our hard-worked animals. I therefore proposed to -the Jemadar that the cloth, the beads, and the other -similar luggage of his men, should be packed, sealed up, -and inserted into the porters’ loads, of which several had -shrunk to half-weight. He probably thought the suggestion -a ruse on my part to discover the means by which -their property had almost trebled its quantity; his men, -moreover, had become thoroughly weary of a journey -where provisions were not always obtainable, and they -had persuaded themselves that Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s -decease had left me without support from the government -of Zanzibar. After a priming with opium, the monocular -returned and reported that his men refused to -open their baggage, declaring their property to be “on -their own heads.” Whilst I was explaining the object -of the measure, the escort appeared in mass, and, with -noise sufficient for a general action, ostentatiously -strewed their old clothes upon the ground, declaring -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-174">[174]</span> -that at Zanzibar they were honourable men, and boasting -that the Baloch were entrusted with lacs of dollars by -the Sayyid Said. Again I offered reasons, which, as is -the wont of the world in such cases, served only to make -them more hopelessly unreasonable. The Jemadar accused -me of starving the party. I told him not to eat -abominations, upon which, clapping hand to hilt, he -theatrically forbade me to repeat the words. Being -prostrated at the time by fever, I could only show him -how little dangerous he was by using the same phrase -half a dozen times. He then turned fiercely upon the -timid Said bin Salim, and having safely vented the excess -of his wrath, he departed to hold a colloquy with his men.</p> - -<p>The debate was purposely conducted in so loud a tone -that every word reached my ears. Khudabakhsh, from -first to last my evil genius and the mainspring of all -mischief, threatened to take “that man’s life,” at the -risk of chains for the remainder of his days. Another -opined, that “in all Nazarenes there is no good.” All -complained that they had no “hishmat” (respect!), no -food, and, above everything, no meat.</p> - -<p>Presently Said bin Salim was deputed by them to -state that for the future they would require one sheep -per diem—men who, when at Zanzibar, saw flesh probably -once a year on the Eed. This being inadmissible, -they demanded three cloths daily instead of one. I -would willingly have given them two, as long as provisions -continued scarce and dear, but the shade of concession -made them raise the number to four. They -declared that in case of refusal they would sleep at the -village, and on the next day would return to Zanzibar. -Receiving a contemptuous answer, they marched away in -a body, noisily declaring that they were going to make -instant preparation for departure.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-175">[175]</span></p> - -<p>Such a proceeding on the part of several of these -mercenaries was inexcusable. They had been treated -with kindness, and even indulgence. They had hitherto -never complained, simply because they had no cause for -complaint. One man, Ismail, who suffered from dysentery, -had been regularly supplied with food cooked -by the Goanese; and even while we dragged along our -fevered frames on foot, he was allowed to ride an ass. -Yet the recreant never attempted a word of dissuasion, -and deserted with the rest.</p> - -<p>After the disappearance of the Baloch, the Sons of -Ramji were summoned. I had privily ascertained -from Said bin Salim the opinions of these men concerning -their leader: they said but little evil, complaining -principally of the Englishman’s “heat,” and that he was -not wholly ruled by their rascalities, whereas the Baloch -in their private confabs never failed to indulge in the -choicest of Oriental Billingsgate. The slaves, when -they heard the state of the case, cheerfully promised to -stand by us, but on the same evening, assembled by -Kidogo, they agreed to follow the example of the escort -on the first justifiable occasion. I did not learn this till -some days afterwards, and even if I had been told it on -the spot, it would have mattered little. My companion -and I had made up our minds, in case of the escort and -the slaves deserting, to bury our baggage, and to trust -ourselves in the hands of the Wanyamwezi porters. The -storm, however,—a <i>brutum fulmen</i>—blew over with -only noise.</p> - -<p>A march was ordered for the next day—the 17th -August. As the asses were being loaded, appeared the -one-eyed Jemadar, with Greybeard Musa and Darwaysh, -looking more crestfallen and foolish than they had ever -looked before. They took my hand with a polite -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-176">[176]</span> -violence, begged suppliantly for a paper of dismissal to -“cover their shame,” and declared that, so far from deserting -me, I was deserting them. As this required no -reply, I mounted and rode on.</p> - -<p>The path fell easily westwards down a long grassy -and jungly incline, cut by several water-courses. About -noon, I lay down half-fainting in the sandy bed of the -Muhama Nullah—the “Palmetto,” or “Fan-palm;” and -retaining Wazira and Mabruki, I urged the caravan -forwards, that my companion might send me back a -hammock from the halting-place. Suddenly appeared -the whole body of deserters shouldering—as porters and -asses had been taken from them—their luggage, which -outwardly consisted of cloth, dirty rags, green skins, old -earthen pots, and greasy gourds and calabashes. They -led me to a part of the nullah where stagnant water -was found, and showing abundant penitence, they ever -and anon attempted excuses, which were reserved for -consideration. At 3 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, no hammock appearing, I -remounted, and pursued a path over rolling ground, -with masses of dwarf-hill flanking a low bottom, which -renewed the scenery of the “Slough of Despond”—Zungomero. -Again the land, matted with putrid grass, -displayed the calabash and the hyphæna, the papaw -and the palmetto; the holcus and maize were of luxuriant -dimensions, and deep rat-holes, enlarged by the -boy-hunters, broke the grassy path. I found two little -villages, inhabitated by Wangindo and Mandandu immigrants -from the vicinity of Kilwa. Then appeared on -a hill-side the Kraal in which the caravan had halted; -the party had lost the road, and had been dispersed by a -swarm of wild bees, an accident even more frequent in -East Africa than in India.</p> - -<p>Next morning the Baloch were harangued; they professed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-177">[177]</span> -themselves profoundly penitent, and attributing -their unsoldier-like conduct to opium, and to the Wiswas, -the temptations of Sathanas, they promised to reform. -The promise was kept till we reached Ugogi. They -were, however, always an encumbrance; they did no -good beyond creating an impression, and “making the -careless Æthiopians afraid.” I saw them, it is true, in -their worst colours. They held themselves to be servants -of their prince, and as no Eastern man can or will -serve two masters, they forfeited all claim to their -sole good quality—manageability. As men, they had no -stamina; after a few severe marches they murmured that</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Famine, despair, thirst, cold, and heat,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Had done their work on them by turns.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">Their constitutions, sapped by long residence at Zanzibar, -were subject to many ailments, and in sickness they were -softer than Indian Pariahs. Under the slightest attack -of fever, they threw themselves moaning upon the ground; -they were soon deterred by the sun from bringing up -the rear, and by night they would not keep watch or -ward even when in actual danger of robbery. Notwithstanding -their affectation of military carriage their -bravery was more than problematical; they were disciplined -only by their fears. As men at arms, one and -all deserved to wear the wooden spoon: I saw the whole -garrison of Kaole firing for an hour, without effect, at a -shell, stuck on a stick, distant about a dozen paces: -our party expended thirty pounds of gunpowder without -bagging a pair of antelope, and it was impossible to -trust them with ammunition; when unable to sell it, -they wasted it upon small birds. Ever claiming for -themselves “hishmat,” or respect, they forgot their own -proverb that “courtesy hath two heads;” they complained -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-178">[178]</span> -that they were not seated half the day in our tents, and -the being “told to depart,” when their terribly long -visits rendered the measure necessary, was a standing -grievance. Like the lower races of Orientals, they -were ever attempting to intrude, to thrust themselves -forwards, to take an ell when an inch was offered; they -considered all but themselves fools, ready to be imposed -upon by the flimsiest lie, by the shallowest artifices. -Gratitude they ignored; with them a favour granted was -but an earnest of favours to come, and one refusal obliterated -the trace of a hundred largesses. Their objects -in life seemed to be eating, and buying slaves; their -pleasures, drinking and intrigue. Insatiable beggars -were they; noisy, boisterous, foul-mouthed knaves, -swearers “with voices like cannons;” rude and forward -in manner, low and abusive in language, so slanderous -that for want of other subjects they would calumniate -one another, and requiring a periodical check to their -presumption. I might have spent the whole of my day -in superintending the food of these thirteen “great -eaters and little runners.” Repeatedly warned, both by -myself and by my companion, that their insubordination -would prevent our recommending them for recompense -at the end of the journey, they could not check repeated -ebullitions of temper. Before arrival at the coast they -seemed to have made up their minds that they had not -fulfilled the conditions of reward. After my departure -from Zanzibar, however, they persuaded Lieut.-Col. -Hamerton’s successor to report officially to the Government -of Bombay “the claims of these men, the hardships -they endured, and the fidelity and perseverance -they showed!”</p> - -<p>At Muhama I halted three days, a delay which generally -occurred before long desert marches for which -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-179">[179]</span> -provisions are required. On the first, Kidogo would bring -about sixty pounds of grain; on the second, he would -disperse his men throughout the villages, and procure the -300 pounds required for five marches; and on the third, -he would cause it to be husked and pounded, so as to be -ready for the morrow. Three up-caravans, containing a -total of about 150 men, suffering severely from small-pox, -here passed us. One was commanded by Khalfan bin -Muallim Salim and his brother Id, coast Arabs, whom -we afterwards met at two places. He told me several -deliberate falsehoods about the twenty-two porters -that were to follow us, for instance, that he had left -them, halted by disease, at Kidunda, in the maritime -region, under the command of one Abdullah bin -Jumah, and thus he led me to expect them at a time -when they had not even been engaged. He and his men -also spread reports in Ugogo and other places where -the people are peculiarly suspicious concerning the -magical and malignant powers of the “whites;” in fact, -he showed all the bad spirit of his bastard blood. At -Muhama, the furthest point westward to which the -vuli or autumnal rains extend, the climate was still -that of the Rufuta Range, foggy, misty mornings, white -rags of cloudbank from the table-cloths outspread upon -the heights, clear days, with hot suns and chilling south -winds, and raw dewy nights. I again suffered from fever; -the attack, after lasting seven days, disappeared, leaving, -however, hepatic complications, which having lasted uninterruptedly -ten months, either wore themselves out, -or yielded to the action of acids, narcotics, and stimulants -tardily forwarded from Zanzibar. Here also over-fatigue, -in a fruitless shooting-excursion, combined with -the mephitic air of stagnant, weedy waters, caused a -return of my companion’s fever.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-180">[180]</span></p> - -<p>Two other Wanyamwezi porters were laid up with -small-pox. One ass died of fatigue, whilst a second -torn by a hyæna, and a third too weak to walk, were left, -together with the animal that had been stung by bees, in -charge of Mpambe, headman of the Wangindo. Being -now reduced to the number of nineteen beasts, I submitted -to Said bin Salim the advisability of leaving -behind wire and ammunition, either cached in the jungle, -as is the custom of these lands, or entrusted to the -headman. The Arab approved; Kidogo, however, dissented. -I took the opinion of the latter, he was positive -that the effects once abandoned would never be recovered, -and that the headman, who appeared a kind of -cunning idiot, was not to be trusted. Some months -afterwards I commissioned an Arab merchant, who was -marching towards the coast, to recover the asses left in -the charge of Mpambe; the latter refused to give them -up, thus proving the soundness of Kidogo’s judgment.</p> - -<p>Having collected with difficulty—the land was sun-cracked, -and the harvest-store had been concealed by -the people—some supplies, but scarcely sufficient for -the long desert tract, we began, on the 21st of August, -to cross the longitudinal plain that gently shelving westward -separates the Rufuta from the second, or Mukondokwa -Range. The plain was enclosed on all sides -by low lines of distant hill, and cut by deep nullahs, -which gave more than the usual amount of trouble. -The tall Palmyra (<i>Borassus Flabelliformis</i>), whose majestic -bulging column renders it so difficult to climb, -was a novel feature in the scenery. This tree, the -Mvumo of East Africa, and the Deleb-palm of the -Upper Nile, is scattered through the interior, extending -to the far south. On this line it is more common in -Western Unyamwezi, where, and where only, an intoxicating -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-181">[181]</span> -toddy is drawn from the cut frond, than elsewhere. -The country abounded in game, but we were -both too weak to work—my companion, indeed, was compelled -to lag behind—and the Baloch, to whom the guns -were lent, returned empty-handed. Sign of the Mbogo -(<i>Bos Caffer</i>) here appeared; it is general in East Africa, -especially upon the river plains where water abounds. -These wild cattle are fine animals, somewhat larger than -the common-sized English bullock, with uniform dun -skins, never parti-coloured like the tame herds, and with -thick black-brown horns, from twelve to thirteen inches -broad at the base, diverging outwards, and incurved at -the points, which in large specimens are distant about -three feet from each other; they are separated by a -narrow channel, and this in age becomes a solid mass of -bone. The Mbogo is as dull of comprehension as it is -fierce and powerful; affecting particular spots, it will -often afford several chances of a successful shot to the -Fundi—Shikari, or Chasseur—of a caravan: the Africans -kill it with arrows. The flesh, though considered heating -and bilious, is eaten, and the hide is preferred for -thongs and reins to that of the tame animal.</p> - -<p>The approach to the kraal was denoted by a dead -level of dry, caked, and cracked mud, showing the subsidence -of an extensive inundation. We passed a large -camping-ground, affected by down-caravans, on the near -side of the Makata, a long river-like “tank,” whose lay -is E. by N. The oozy banks of this water, which is -said to flow after rains into the Mukondokwa River, are -fringed with liliaceous and other large aquatic plants; -the water, though dark, is potable. After fording the -tank, which was then breast-deep, we found on the further -side the kraal used by porters of up-caravans, who -sensibly avoid commencing the day with hard labour, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-182">[182]</span> -who fear that a sudden fall of rain might compel them -to intempestive halts. In such places, throughout the -country, there are two distinct khambi, one on each -side of the obstacle, whether this be a river, a pass, or -a populous clearing; in the latter case, caravans unload -at the farther end of the cultivation, prepared to escape -from a fray into the jungle, without running the gauntlet -of the villages. That evening I tried to reduce the -ever-increasing baggage of the sons of Ramji, who -added to the heaps piled upon the wretched asses, now -burdened with rations for several days, their drums and -sleeping-hides, and their cocks and hens, whilst they left -the beds and the cooking-utensils of the Goanese upon -the ground. They informed me that if our animals -could not carry their property, they could not drive -our animals. The reply was significant. With some -exertion of the “rascally virtue”—Prudence—I -retired.</p> - -<p>The night was disturbed only by mosquitoes. These -piping pests, however, are less troublesome in this part of -East Africa than might be expected from the nature and -the position of the country, and the bite has little venom -compared with those of the Mozambique, or even of -Western India. The common culex is a large variety, of -brownish or dun colour; its favourite breeding-places -are the backwaters on the banks of rivers, and the margins -of muddy pools, and upon the creeks of the maritime -regions, and the Central Lakes.</p> - -<p>Pursuing our march on the next day, I witnessed a -curious contrast in this strange African nature, which -is ever in extremes, and where extremes ever meet, -where grace and beauty are seldom seen without a sudden -change to a hideous grotesqueness. A splendid -view charmed me in the morning. Above lay a sky of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-183">[183]</span> -purest azure, flaked with fleecy opal-tinted vapours -floating high in the empyrean, and catching the first -roseate smiles of the unrisen sun. Long lines, one -bluer than the other, broken by castellated crags and -towers of most picturesque form, girdled the far horizon; -the nearer heights were of a purplish-brown, and -snowy mists hung like glaciers about their folds. The -plain was a park in autumn, burnt tawny by the sun, -patched with a darker hue where the people were firing -the grass—a party was at work merrily, as if preparing -for an English harvest-home—to start the animals, -to promote the growth of a young crop, and, such -is the popular belief, to attract rain. Calabashes, Palmyras, -Tamarinds, and clumps of evergreen trees were scattered -over the scene, each stretching its lordly arms over -subject circlets of deep dew-fed verdure. Here the dove -cooed loudly, and the guinea-fowl rang its wild cry, -whilst the peewit chattered in the open stubble, and a -little martin, the prettiest of its kind, contrasted by its -nimble dartings along the ground with the condor -wheeling slowly through the upper air. The most -graceful of animals, the zebra and the antelope, browsed -in the distance: now they stood to gaze upon the long -line of porters, then, after leisurely pacing, with retrospective -glances, in an opposite direction, they halted -motionless for a moment, faced about once more to -satiate curiosity, and lastly, terrified by their own -fancy, they bounded in ricochets over the plain.</p> - -<p>About noon the fair scene vanished as if by enchantment. -We suddenly turned northwards into a tangled -mass of tall fetid reeds, rank jungle and forest, with its -decaying trunks encroaching upon the hole-pierced goat-track -that zigzaged towards the Myombo River. This -perennial stream rises, according to the guides, in an -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-184">[184]</span> -elevation opposite to the highlands of Dut’humi. It is -about fifty feet broad at the ford, breast-deep, and the -swift brown waters swirl under a canopy of the trees -whose name it bears. The “Myombo” is a fine specimen -of African timber, apparently unknown to the -people of Zanzibar, but extending almost from the coast -to the Lake Regions. The flower is greenish, with the -overpowering smell of the Indian jasmines; the fruit is -a large pod, containing ten or twelve long hard acorns, -of a brown-black colour, set in cups which resemble -red sealing-wax. The coarse bark is used for building -huts and kraals, the inner fibre for “bast” and ropes, -and the wood makes what Easterns call a hot fire, lasting -long, and burning well out. After the fiery sun -and the dry atmosphere of the plains, the sudden effect -of the dank and clammy chill, the result of exceeding -evaporation, under the impervious shades that line the -river banks, was overpowering. In such places one -feels as if poisoned by miasma; a shudder runs -through the frame; and a cold perspiration, like -the prelude for a fainting-fit, breaks from the brow. -Unloading the asses, and fording the stream, we -ascended the left bank, and occupied a kraal, with -fires still smoking, on its summit. Though another -porter was left behind with small-pox, I had -little difficulty with the luggage on this march: the -more I worked the men, the harder they worked. -Besides, they seldom fell sick on the road, though often -prostrated when halting, a phenomenon which my companion -explained by their hard eating and little exercise -when stationary, and which Said bin Salim more -mercifully attributed to the fatigue and exposure of the -journey taking effect when the excitement had passed -away.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-185">[185]</span></p> - -<p>At dawn on the 23rd of August we resumed our -journey, and in 4<sup>hrs</sup> 30′ concluded the transit of the -lateral plain, which separates the Rufuta from the -Mukondokwa Range. The path wound over a wintry -land, green with vegetation only in the vicinity -of water. After struggling through a forest of canes, -we heard a ngoma, or large drum, which astonished -us, as we had not expected to find a village. Presently, -falling into a network of paths, we lost our way. After -long wandering we came upon a tobacco-field which the -Baloch and the sons of Ramji had finished stripping, -and conducted by some Wanyamwezi who had delayed -returning to guide us, in order to indulge their love for -drumming and plundering, we arrived at the débris of a -once flourishing village of Wasagara, called Mbumi from -its headman. A pitiable scene here presented itself. -The huts were torn and half-burnt, and the ground was -strewed with nets and drums, pestles and mortars, cots -and fragments of rude furniture; and though no traces -of blood were observed, it was evident that a Commando -had lately taken place there. Said bin Salim opined this -ruin to be the work of Khalfan bin Salim, the youth who -had preceded us from Muhama; ever suspicious, he saw -in it a plan adopted by the coast-Arab in order to raise -against us the people of the mountains. Kidogo, observing -that the damage was at least ten days’ old, -more acutely attributed it to the Moslem kidnappers -of Whinde, who, aided by the terrible Kisabengo, the -robber-chief of Ukami, near K’hutu, harry the country -with four or five hundred guns. Two of the wretched -villagers were seen lurking in the jungle, not daring to -revisit the wreck of their homes. Here again the Demon -of Slavery will reign over a solitude of his own creation. -Can it be that, by some inexplicable law, where Nature -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-186">[186]</span> -has done her best for the happiness of mankind, man, -doomed to misery, must work out his own unhappiness? -That night was spent at the deserted village by our men -in drumming, singing, and gleaning all that Khalfan’s -gang had left; they were, moreover, kept awake by fear -lest they might be surprised by the remnants of the -villagers.</p> - -<p>Late in the morning of the 24th of August, after -losing another ass, torn by a cynhyæna, we followed the -path that leads from Mbumi along the right bank of the -Mukondokwa River to its ford. The marcescent vegetation, -and the tall, stiff, and thick-stalked grass, dripped -with dew, which struck cold as a freezing-mixture. The -path was slippery with mud, and man and beast were rendered -wild by the cruel stings of a small red ant and a -huge black pismire. The former cross the road in dense -masses like the close columns of an army. They are -large-headed, showing probably that they are the defenders -of the republic, and that they perform the duties -of soldiers in their excursions. Though they cannot -spring, they show great quickness in fastening themselves -to the foot or ankle as it brushes over them. The -pismire, known to the people as the “chungu-fundo,” or -“siyafu” from the Arabic “siyaf,” is a horse-ant, about -an inch in length, whose bulldog-like head and powerful -mandibles enable it to destroy rats and mice, lizards -and snakes. It loves damp places upon the banks of -rivers and stagnant waters; it burrows but never raises -hills, and it appears scattered for miles over the paths. -Like the other species, it knows neither fear nor sense of -fatigue; it rushes to annihilation without hesitating, -and it cannot be expelled from a hut except by fire or -boiling water. Its bite, which is the preamble to its -meal, burns like a pinch with a red-hot needle; and when -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-187">[187]</span> -it sets to work, twisting itself round and “accroupi” in -its eagerness for food, it may be pulled in two without -relaxing its hold. The favourite food of this pismire is -the termite: its mortal enemy is a large ginger-coloured -ant, called from its painful wound “maji m’oto,” or “hot-water.” -In this foul jungle our men also suffered severely -from the tzetze. This fly, the torment of Cape -travellers, was limited, by Dr. Livingstone, to the regions -south of the Zambezi river. A specimen, brought home -by me and submitted to Mr. Adam White, of the British -Museum, was pronounced by him to be a true Glossina -morsitans, and Mr. Petherick has fixed its limits about -eight degrees north of the equator. On the line followed -by the Expedition, the tzetze was found extending from -Usagara westward as far as the Central Lakes; its usual -habitat is the jungle-strip which encloses each patch -of cultivated ground, and in the latter it is rarely -seen. It has more persistency of purpose even than the -Egyptian fly, and when beaten off it will return half a -dozen times to the charge; it cannot be killed except by -a smart blow, and its long sharp proboscis draws blood -even through a canvas hammock. It is not feared by -the naked traveller; the sting is as painful as that of an -English horsefly, and leaves a lasting trace, but this hard-skinned -people expect no evil consequences from it. In -the vicinity of Kilwa it was heard of under the name of -“kipanga,” the “little sword.” It is difficult to conceive -the purpose for which this plague was placed in a land -so eminently fitted for breeding cattle and for agriculture, -which without animals cannot be greatly extended, -except as an exercise for human ingenuity to remove. -Possibly at some future day, when the country becomes -valuable, the tzetze may be exterminated by the introduction -of some insectivorous bird, which will -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-188">[188]</span> -be the greatest benefactor that Central Africa ever -knew.</p> - -<p>After about an hour’s march, the narrow tunnel in the -jungle—it was so close that only one ass could be led -up and unloaded at a time—debouched upon the Mukondokwa -ford. The view was not unpleasing. The -swift brown stream was broadened by a branch-islet -in its upper bed to nearly a hundred yards, and its -margins were fringed with rushes backed by a -screen of dense verdure and tall trees which occupied -the narrow space between the water and the -hills. The descent and the landing-place were -equally bad. Slipping down the steep miry bank -the porters sank into the river breast-deep, causing -not a little damage to their loads: the ford now wetted -the waist then the knee, and the landing-place was a -kind of hippopotamus-run of thick slushy mud, floored -with roots and branches, snags and sawyers, and backed -by a quagmire rendered passable only by its matwork -of tough grass-canes laid by their own weight. Having -crossed over on our men’s backs, we ascended a little -rise and lay down somewhat in the condition of travelling -Manes fresh from the transit of the Styx. I -ordered back Kidogo with a gang of porters to assist -Said bin Salim who was bringing up the rear: he promised -to go but he went the wrong way—forwards. -Resuming our march along the river’s left or northern -bank, we wound along the shoulders and the bases of -hills, sometimes ascending the spurs of stony and jungly -eminences, where the paths were unusually rough and -precipitous, at other times descending into the stagnant -lagoons, the reedy and rushy swamps, and the deep -bogs which margin the stream. After a total of six -hours we reached a kraal situated upon the sloping -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-189">[189]</span> -ground at the foot of the northern walls which limit -the grassy river basin: through this the Mukondokwa -flows in a dark turbid stream now narrowed to about -forty feet. The district of “Kadetamare” was formerly -a provisioning station where even cattle were purchaseable, -a rare exception to the rule in the smaller settlements -of Usagara. I at once sent men to collect rations, -none, however, were procurable: meeting a small party -that were bringing grain from Rumuma, they learned -that there was a famine in the land.</p> - -<p>At Kadetamare the only pedometer, a patent watch-shaped -instrument, broke down, probably from the -effects of the climate. Whilst carried by my companion -it gave a steady exaggerative rate, but being set to the -usual military pace of 30 inches, when transferred to -the person of “Seedy Bombay” and others, it became -worse than useless, sometimes showing 25 for 13 miles. -I would suggest to future explorers in these regions, as -the best and the most lasting means of measuring -distances, two of the small wheelbarrow perambulators—it -is vain to put trust in a single instrument—which can -each be rolled on by one man. And when these are spoilt -or stolen, timing with the watch, and a correct estimate -of the walking rate combined with compass-bearings, the -mean of the oscillations being taken when on the march, -would give a “dead-reckoning,” which checked by latitudes, -as often as the cloudy skies permit, and by a -few longitudes at crucial stations, would afford materials -for a map approximating as nearly to correctness -as could be desired in a country where a “handful of -miles” little matters. The other instruments, though -carefully protected from the air, fared not better than -the pedometer: with three pocket-chronometers and a -valuable lever-watch, we were at last reduced to find -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-190">[190]</span> -time by a sixpenny sun-dial. Before the first fortnight -after our second landing in Africa had elapsed, all these -instruments, notwithstanding the time and trouble devoted -to them by my companion, at Zanzibar, failed in -their ratings and became useless for chronometric longitudes. -Two of them (Ed. Baker, London, No. 863, -and Barraud, London, No. 2/537), stopped without apparent -reason. A third, a first-rate article (Parkinson -and Frodsham, No. 2955), issued to me from the Royal -Observatory Greenwich, at the kind suggestion of Capt. -Belcher, of the Admiralty, had its glass broken and its -second-hand lost by the blunderer Gaetano: we remedied -that evil by counting the ticks without other -trouble than that caused by the odd number,—5 to 2 -seconds. This instrument also summarily struck work -on the 9th November, 1858, the day before we intended -to have “made a night of it” at Jiwe la Mkoa. This may -serve as a warning for future travellers to avoid instruments -so delicate that a jolt will disorder them—the -hair-spring of the lever watch was broken by my companion -in jumping out of a canoe—and which no one but -a professional can attempt to repair. A box chronometer -carried in a “petarah” by a pole swung between -two men so as to preserve its horizontality, might outlast -the pocket-instruments, yet we read in Capt. Owens -celebrated survey of the African coasts, that out of -nine not one kept rate without fluctuations. The best -plan would be to purchase half-a-dozen sound second-hand -watches, carefully inspected and cleaned, and to -use one at a time; if gold-mounted, they would form -acceptable presents to the Arabs, and ultimately would -prove economical by obviating the necessity of parting -with more valuable articles.</p> - -<p>The break-down of the last chronometer disheartened -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-191">[191]</span> -us for a time. Presently when our brains, addled by -sun and sickness, had recovered tone by a return to the -Usagara sanitarium, we remembered a rough and ready -succedaneum for instruments. I need scarcely tell -the reader that, unhappily for travellers, the only means -of ascertaining the longitude of a place is by finding -the difference between the local and Greenwich times, -and that this difference of time with certain corrections -is converted into distance of space. We split a 4 oz. -rifle-ball, inserted into it a string measuring 39 inches -from the point of suspension to the centre of the -weight, and fixed it by hammering the halves together. -The loose end of the cord was attached to a three-edged -file as a pivot, and this was lashed firmly to -the branch of a tree sheltered as much as possible -from the wind. Local time was ascertained with a -sextant by taking the altitude of a star or a planet; -Greenwich time by a distance between the star or -planet and the moon, and the vibrations of our rude -pendulum did all that a watch could do, by registering -the seconds that elapsed between the several observations.</p> - -<p>I am somewhat presuming upon the subject, but perhaps -it may here be better to chronicle the accidents -which happened to the rest of our instruments. We -had two Schmalcalder’s compasses (H. Barron & Co., -26, Oxenden Street), which, when the paste-board -faces had been acclimatized and no longer curled up -against their glasses, did good service; one of them was -trodden upon by my companion, the other by a sailor -during a cruise on the lake. We returned with a -single instrument, the gift of my old friend Lieut.-General -Monteith; it had surveyed Persia, and outlasting -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-192">[192]</span> -two long excursions into Eastern Africa, it still -outlives and probably will outlive many of the showy -articles now supplied by the trade. Finally, a ship’s -compass, mounted in gimbals for boat-work and indented -for upon the Engineer’s Stores, Bombay, soon -became lumber, its oscillations were too sluggish to be -useful.</p> - -<p>We left Kadetamare on the 25th August, to ascend -the fluviatile valley of the Mukondokwa. According -to the guides this stream is the upper course of the -Kingani River, with which it anastomoses in Uzaramo(?) -It cuts its way through the chain to which it -gives a name, by a transversal valley perpendicular to -the lay, and so conveniently disposed that the mountains -seem rather to be made for their drain than the -drain for its mountains. The fluviatile valley is apparently -girt on all sides by high peaks, with homesteads -smoking and cattle grazing on all sides. Crippled by -the night-cold that rose from the river-bed, and then -wet through with the dew that dripped from the tall -grass, we traversed, within ear-shot of the frightened -villagers who hailed one another from the heights, -some fields of grain and tobacco that had been lately -reaped. After an hour and a-half of marching -we arrived at the second ford of the Mukondokwa. -Receiving less drainage than in the lower bed, the -stream was narrower and only knee-deep; the landing-place -of sloppy mud caused, however, many accidents -to the asses, and on inspecting our stores a few -days afterwards we found them all soft and mildewed. -The reader will wonder that on these occasions -we did not personally inspect the proceedings of our -careless followers. The fact is we were physically and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-193">[193]</span> -morally incapacitated for any exertion beyond balancing -ourselves upon the donkeys; at Kadetamare I had -laid in another stock of fever, and my companion had not -recovered from his second severe attack. After fording -the Mukondokwa we followed the right bank through -cultivation, grass, and trees, up a gradually broadening -valley peculiarly rich in field-rats. The path then crossing -sundry swamps and nullahs, hill-spurs and “neat’s -tongues,” equally rough thorny and precipitous, presently -fell into a river-reach where pools of water, -breast deep, and hedged in by impassable jungle and long -runs of slushy mire festering in a furious sun, severely -tried the porters and asses. Thence the road wound -under the high hills to the South, whose flanks were -smoking with extensive conflagrations, whilst on the opposite -or left bank of the river, the opening valley displayed -a forest of palms and tall trees. About 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> -I reached the ground, a hutless circle of thorns, -called by our people Muinyi: the rear-guard, however, -did not straggle in before 6 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, and the exhaustion of -the asses—seventeen now remained—rendered a day’s -halt necessary.</p> - -<p>During the last two marches the Baloch had been, -they declared, without grain; the sons of Ramji and -the porters, more provident, had reserved a small store, -moreover they managed to procure a sheep from the next -station. On the morrow a party, headed by Muinyi -Wazira, set out to forage among the mountain settlements, -bearing no arms in token of peace. About noon -they returned, and reported that at the sight of -strangers the people had taken to flight, after informing -the party that they were in the habit of putting to -death all Murungwana or freemen found trespassing off -the road; however, that on this occasion the lives of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-194">[194]</span> -strangers should be spared. But Ambari, a slave belonging -to Said bin Salim, presently tattled the true tale. -The gallant foragers had not dared to enter the village; -when the war-cry flew from hamlet to hamlet, and all -the Wasagara, even the women and children, seized their -spears and stood to arms, they at once threw themselves -into the jungle and descended the hill with such unseemly -haste that most of them bore the wounds of -thorns and stones. Two of Baloch, Riza and Belok, -lit their matches and set out proudly to provide themselves -by their prowess; they were derided by Kidogo: -“Verily, O my brethren! ye go forth to meet men and -not women!” and after a hundred yards’ walk they -took second thoughts and returned. The Mukondokwa -Mountains, once a garden, have become a field for fray -and foray; cruelty and violence have brutalised the -souls of the inhabitants, and they have learned, as -several atrocities committed since our passage through -the country prove, to wreak their vengeance upon all -weaker than themselves.</p> - -<p>On the 27th August we resumed our way under fresh -difficulties. The last march had cost us another ass. -Muhinna, a donkey-driver, complaining of fever, had -been mounted by Kidogo without my permission, and -had summarily departed, thus depriving us of the services -of a second, whilst all were in a state of weakness -which compelled them to walk at their slowest pace. On -the other hand, the men of the caravan, hungry and -suffering from raw south-east wind and the chilly cold, -the result not of low temperature but of humidity and -extensive evaporation, were for pushing forward as fast -as possible. The path was painful, winding along the -shoulders of stony and bushy hills, with rough re-entering -angles, and sometimes dipping down into the valley of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-195">[195]</span> -the Mukondokwa, which, hard on the right, spread out -in swamps, nearly two miles broad, temporary where they -depended upon rain, and permanent where their low -levels admitted of free infiltration. On the steep eminences -to the left of the path rose tall and thick the thorny -aloetic and cactaceous growth of arid Somaliland; the -other side was a miniature of the marine lagoons, the -creeks, and the bayous of green Zanzibar. After three -hours of hard marching, the labour came to its crisis, -where the path, breaking off at a right angle from the river, -wound up an insecure ladder of loose earth and stones, -which caused several porters and one ass to lose their -footing, and to roll with their loads through the thorny -bushes of the steep slope, near the off side, into the bed -of rushes below. Then leaving the river-valley on the -right, we fell into a Fiumara of deep loose sand, about a -hundred yards broad, and occupying the centre of a -widening table-land. The view now changed, and the -“wady” afforded pleasant glimpses of scenery. Its -broad, smooth and glistening bed, dinted by the footprints -of cattle, was bounded by low perpendicular -banks of stiff red clay, margined by mighty masses of -brilliant green tamarinds, calabashes, and sycomores, -which stood sharply out against the yellow stubbles beyond -them. The Mkuyu or sycomore in Eastern -Africa is a magnificent tree; the bole, composed of -a pillared mass, averages from eight to ten feet in -height, and the huge branches, thatched with thick cool -foliage, extend laterally, overshadowing a circle whose -perimeter, when the sun is vertical, sometimes attains -five hundred feet. The fruit, though eaten by travellers, -is a poor berry, all rind and seeds, with a slender title -to the name of fig. There are apparently two varieties -of this tree, resembling each other in general appearance, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-196">[196]</span> -but differing in details. The Mtamba has a large, heavy, -and fleshy leaf; its fruit is not smooth like that of the -Mkuyu, but knobbed with green excrescences, and the -bole is loftier than the common sycomore’s trunk. The -roots of the older trees, rising above the earth, draw up -a quantity of mould which, when the wood is decayed -or destroyed, forms the dwarf mounds that in many parts -encumber the surface of the country. Traces of extensive -cultivation—fields of bajri or panicum, the staple -cereal which here supplants the normal African holcus, -or Kafir corn, and plantations of luxuriant maize, of -beans, of the vetch known as the voiandzeia subterranea, -of tobacco, and other plants—showed that this district is -beyond the reach of the coast-kidnappers. From the rising -ground on the left hand we heard the loud tattoo of the -drum. The Baloch, choosing to be alarmed, fired several -shots, much to the annoyance of the irascible Kidogo, who -had laid down as a law that waste of powder in this region -was more likely to invite than to prevent an attack. As -we ascended the Fiumara it narrowed rapidly, and its -head was encumbered with heaps of boulders from which -sprang a runnel of the sweetest water. The camping-ground -was upon the left bank of the bed. The guide -called it Ndábi, probably from a small gnarled tree here -abundant, bearing a fruit like a pale red currant, which -tastes like sweetened gum dissolved in dirty water. I -lost no time in sending for provisions, which were scarce -and dear. Bombay failed in procuring a sheep, though the -Baloch, by paying six cloths, were more fortunate. One -of Kidogo’s principles of action, in which he was abetted -by Said bin Salim, was to prevent our buying provisions, -however necessary, at high prices, fearing lest the tariff -thus established might become an “ada,” a precedent or -custom for future travellers, himself and others. We -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-197">[197]</span> -were, therefore, fain to content ourselves and our servants -with a little bajri and two eggs.</p> - -<p>After a day’s halt at Ndabi we resumed the journey -on the 29th August. The path crossed a high and -stony hill-shoulder, where the bleak raw air caused one -of the porters to lie down torpid like a frozen man. It -then stretched over gradually rising and falling ground -to a dense bush of cactaceæ and milk-bush, aloetic plants -and thorns, based upon a surface of brickdust-red. Beyond -this point lay another plateau of wavy surface, -producing dwarfed and wind-wrung calabashes, and -showing grain-fields carefully and laboriously ridged with -the hoe. Flocks and herds now appeared in all directions. -The ground was in some places rust-coloured, in -others dazzlingly white with a detritus of granite; mica -glittered like silver-filings in the sun, and a fine silky -grass waved in the wind, bleached clean of colour by the -glowing rays. This plateau ended in a descent with -rapid slopes, over falls and steps of rock and boulder -into the basin of the Rumuma River. It is a southern -influent, or a bifurcation of the Mukondokwa, and -it drains the hills to the south-west of the Rumuma -district, whereas the main stream, arising in the highlands -of the Wahumba or Wamusai, carries off the -waters of the lands on the west. Losing our way, -we came upon this mountain-torrent, which swirls -through blocks and boulders under stiff banks of red -earth densely grown with brush and reeds; and to -find the kraal we were obliged to travel up the bed-side, -through well-hoed fields irrigated by raised water-courses. -The khambi was badly situated in the dwarf hollow between -the river and the hills, and having lately been -tenanted, as the smoking embers showed, it was uncleanly -in the extreme. It was heart-breaking to see the asses -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-198">[198]</span> -that day. I left them to Said bin Salim, who, with -many others, did not appear till eventide.</p> - -<p>Rumuma is a favourite resting-place with caravans, -on account of the comparative abundance of its supplies. -I halted here two whole days, to rest and feed -the starving porters, and to repair the sacks, the pack-saddles, -and the other appointments of the asses. Here, -for the first time, the country people descended in -crowds from the hills, bringing fowls, hauling along -small but beautifully formed goats, lank sheep, and fine -bullocks—the latter worth twelve cloths—and carrying -on their heads basket-platters full of the Voandzeia, -bajri, beans, and the <i>Arachis Hypogæa</i>. The latter is -called by the Arabs Sumbul el Sibal, or “Monkey’s -Spikenard;” on the coast, Njugu ya Nyassa; in Unyamwezi, -Karanga or K’haranga, and further west, Mayowwa -or Mwanza. It is the Bhuiphali, or “earth-fruit” -of India, and the Bik’han of Maharatta land, -where it is used by cheap confectioners in the place of -almonds, whose taste it simulates. Our older Cape travellers -term it the pig-nut. The plant extends itself -along the surface of the ground, and puts forth its fruit -at intervals below. It is sown before the rains, and -ripens after six months,—in the interior about June. -The Arabs fry it with cream that has been slightly -salted, and employ it in a variety of rich dishes; it -affords them also a favourite oil. The Africans use it -principally on journeys. The price greatly varies according -to the abundance of the article; when moderate, -about two pounds may be purchased for a “khete” of -coral beads.</p> - -<p>The Wasagara of Rumuma are short, black, beardless -men. They wear their hair combed off the forehead, -and twisted into a fringe of little pig-tails, which -extend to the nape of the neck. Few boast of cloth, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-199">[199]</span> -the general body contenting themselves with a goat-skin -flap somewhat like a cobbler’s apron tied over -one shoulder, as we sling a game-bag. Their ornaments -are zinc and brass earrings in rolls, which -distend the ear-lobe, bangles, or armlets of similar -metal, and iron chains with oblong links as anklets. -Their arms are bows and arrows, assegais with long -lanceated heads, and bull-hide shields, three feet -long by one broad, painted black and red in perpendicular -stripes. I was visited by their Sultan -Njasa, a small grizzled old man, with eyes reddened by -liquor, a wide mouth, a very thin beard, a sooty skin, -and long straggling hair, “<i>à la malcontent</i>.” He was -attired in an antiquated Barsati, or blue and red Indian -cotton, tucked in at the waist, with another -thrown over his shoulders, and his neck was decked -with many strings of beads. He insisted upon making -“sare” or brotherhood with Said bin Salim, who being -forbidden by his law to taste blood, made the unconscientious -Muinyi Wazira his proxy. The two brothers -being seated on the ground opposite each other, with -legs well to the fore, one man held over their heads a -drawn sword, whilst another addressed to them alternately -a little sermon, denouncing death or slavery as -the penalty for proving false to the vow. Then each -brother licked a little of the other’s blood, taken with -the finger from a knife-cut above the heart, or rather -where the heart is popularly supposed to be. The Sultan -then presented to the Muinyi, <i>in memoriam</i>, a neat -iron chain-anklet, and the Muinyi presented to the Sultan -a little of our cloth.</p> - -<p>The climate of Rumuma was new to me, after the incessant -rains of the maritime valley, and the fogs and -mists of the Rufuta Range. It was, however, in extremes. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-200">[200]</span> -At night the thermometer, under the influence -of dewy gusts, sank in the tent to 48° F., a killing temperature -in these latitudes to half-naked and houseless -men. During the day the mercury ranged between 80° -and 90° F.; the sun was fiery, whilst a furious south -wind coursed through skies purer and bluer than I had -ever seen in Greece or Italy. At times, according to -the people, the hill-tops are veiled, especially in the -mornings and evenings, with thick nimbus, vapours, -and spitting clouds, which sometimes extend to the -plain, and discharge heavy showers that invariably -cause sickness. Here my companion once more suffered -from an attack of “liver,” brought on, he supposed, -from over-devotion to a fat bullock’s hump. Two of -the Wanyamwezi porters were seized with preliminary -symptoms of small-pox, euphuistically termed by Said -bin Salim “shurua,” or chicken-pox. Several of the -slaves, including the charming Halimah, were laid up; -the worst of all, however, was Valentine, who complained -of an unceasing racking headache, whilst his puffed -cheeks and dull-yellow skin gave him the look of one -newly deceased. At length, divining his complaint, he -was cupped by a Mnyamwezi porter, and he recovered -after the operation strength and appetite.</p> - -<p>The 2nd of September saw us <i>en route</i> to Márengá -Mk’hali, or the “brackish water.” Fording the Rumuma -above the spot where it receives the thin supplies -of the Márengá Mk’hali, we marched over stony hills -and thorny bushes, dotted with calabash and mimosa, -the castor-shrub and the wild egg-plant, and gradually -rising, we passed into scattered fields of holcus and -bajri, pulse and beans. Here, for the first time, bee-hives, -called by the coast-people Mazinga, or cannons, from -their shape, hollowed cylindrical logs, closed with grass -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-201">[201]</span> -and puddle at both ends, and provided with an oval -opening in the centre, were seen hanging to the branches -of the foliaged trees. Cucumbers, water-melons, and -pumpkins grew apparently without cultivation. The -water-melon, called by the Arabs Johh, and by the -Wasawahili Tikiti, flourishes throughout the interior, -where it is a favourite with the people. It is sown before -the rainy season, gathered after six months, and -placed to ripen upon the flat roofs of the villages. Like -the produce of Kafir-land, it is hard, insipid, fleshy, -and full of seeds, having nothing but the name in common -with the delicious fruit of Egypt and Afghanistan. -The Junsal, or Boga, the pumpkin, is, if possible, worse -than the water-melon. Its red meat, simply boiled, is -nauseously sweet; it is, however, considered wholesome, -and the people enjoy the seeds toasted, pounded, and -mixed with the “Mboga,” or wild vegetables, with -which a veritable African can, in these regions, keep -soul and body together for six months. About 10 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, -I found Khalfan’s caravan halted in a large kraal -amongst the villages, on the eastern hill above the -“brackish water.” They were loading for the march, -and my men looked wistfully at the comfortable huts; -but their halt had been occasioned by small-pox, I therefore -hurried forwards across the streamlet to a wind-swept -summit of an opposite hill. The place was far from -pleasant, the gusts were furious; by night the thermometer -showed 54° F., by day there was but scanty -shelter from the fiery sun, and the “Márengá Mk’hali,” -which afforded the only supplies of water, was at a considerable -distance. Moreover our umbrellas and bedding -suffered severely from a destructive host of white -ants, that here became troublesome for the first time. -The “Chunga Mchwa,” or termite, abounds throughout -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-202">[202]</span> -the sweet red clay soils, and cool damp places, avoiding -heat, sand, and stone, and it acts like a clearer and -scavenger; without it, indeed, some parts of the country -would be impassable, and it is endowed with extraordinary -powers of destruction. A hard clay-bench has -been drilled and pierced like a sieve by these insects in a -single night, and bundles of reeds placed under bedding, -have in a few hours been converted into a mass of mud; -straps were consumed, cloths and umbrellas were reduced -to rags, and the mats used for covering the servants’ -sleeping-gear were, in the shortest possible time, -so tattered as to be unserviceable. Man revenges himself -upon the white ant, and satisfies his craving for -animal food, which in these regions becomes a principle -of action,—a passion,—by boiling the largest and fattest -kind, and eating it as a relish with his insipid ugali, or -porridge. The termite appears to be a mass of live -water. Even in the driest places it finds no difficulty -in making a clay-paste for the mud-galleries, like hollow -tree-twigs, with which it disguises its approach to -its prey. The phenomenon has been explained by the -conjecture that it combines by vital force the atmospheric -oxygen with the hydrogen evolved by its food. -When arrived at the adult state, the little peoples rise -ready-winged, like thin curls of pipe-smoke, generally -about even-tide, from the ground. After a flight of a -few yards, the fine membranes, which apparently serve -to disperse the insects into colonies, drop off. In East -Africa there is also a semi-transparent brown ant, resembling -the termite in form, but differing in habits, -and even exceeding it in destructiveness. It does not, -like its congener, run galleries up to the point of attack. -Each individual works for itself in the open air, tears -the prey with its strong mandibles, and carries it away -to its hole. The cellular hills of the termites in this -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-203">[203]</span> -country rarely rise to the height of three feet, whereas -in Somali-land they become dwarf towers, forming a -conspicuous feature in the view.</p> - -<p>No watch was kept by the Baloch at Márengá Mk’hali, -though we were then in the vicinity of the bandit Wahumba. -On the next day we were harangued by Kidogo, -who proceeded to expound the principles that -must guide us through the unsafe regions ahead. The -caravan must no longer straggle on in its usual disorder, -the van must stop short when separated from -the main body, and the rear must advance at the -double when summoned by the sound of the Barghumi, -or the koodoo-horn, which acts as bugle in Eastern -Africa. I thought, at the time, that Kidogo might -as well address his admonitions to the wind, and I -thought rightly.</p> - -<p>The route lay through the lateral plain which separates -the Mukondokwa or second, from the Rubeho or -third parallel range of the Usagara Mountains. At -Márengá, Mk’hali, situated as it is under the lee of the -two eastern walls, upon which the humid N. E. and -S. E. trade-winds impinge, the eye no longer falls, as -before, upon a sheet of monotonous green, and the nose -is not offended by the death-like exhalations of a pestilent -vegetation. The dew diminishes, the morning-cloud -is rare upon the hill-top, and the stratus is not -often seen in the valley; rain, moreover, seldom falls -heavily, except during its single appointed season. The -climate is said to be salubrious, and the medium elevation -of the land, 2500 feet, raises it high above the -fatal fever-level, without attaining the altitudes where -dysentery and pleurisy afflict the inhabitants. For -many miles beyond Márengá Mk’hali water is rarely -found. Caravans, therefore, resort to what is technically -called a “Tirikeza,” or afternoon march. In the Kisawahili, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-204">[204]</span> -or coast-language, “ku Tirikeza,” or “Tilikeza,” and -in Kinyamwezi, “ku Witekezea,” is the infinitive of a neuter -verb signifying “to march after noon-day”; by the -Arabs it is corrupted into a substantive. Similarly the -verb ku honga, to pay “dash”, tribute, passage-money, or -blackmail, becomes in the mouths of the stranger, ku -honga, or Honga. The tirikeza is one of the severest -inflictions that African travelling knows. At 11 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> -everything is thrown into confusion, although two or -three hours must elapse before departure; loads are -bound up, kitchen-batteries are washed and packed, -tents are thrown, and stools are carried off by fidgeting -porters and excited slaves. Having drunk for the last -time, and filled their gourds for the night, the wayfarers -set out when the midday ends. The sun is far more -severely felt after the sudden change from shade, than -during the morning marches, when its increase of heat is -slow and gradual. They trudge under the fireball in the -firmament, over ground seething with glow and reek, -through an air which seems to parch the eyeballs, and -they endure this affliction till their shadows lengthen -out upon the ground. The tirikeza is almost invariably -a lengthy stage, as the porters wish to abridge -the next morning’s march, which leads to water. It is -often bright moonlight before they arrive at the ground, -with faces torn by the thorns projecting across the -jungly path, with feet lacerated by stone and stub, -and occasionally a leg lamed by stumbling into deep -and narrow holes, the work of field-rats and of various -insects.</p> - -<p>We left Márengá Mk’hali at 1 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, on the 3rd September, -and in order to impressionise a large and well-armed -band of the country people that had gathered to -stare at, to criticise, and to deride us, we indulged in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-205">[205]</span> -a little harmless sword-play, with a vast show of ferocity -and readiness for fight. The road lay over several rough, -steep, and bushy ridges, where the wretched asses, -rushing away to take advantage of a yard of shade, -caused constant delays. The Wanyamwezi animals -having a great persistency of character, could scarcely -be dislodged; and when they were, they threw their -loads in pure spite. After topping a little “col” or -pass, we came in sight of an extensive basin, bounded -by distant blue hills, to which the porters pointed with -a certain awe, declaring them to be the haunts of the -fierce Wahumba. A descent of the western flank led -us to a space partially cleared by burning, when the cry -arose that men were lurking about. We then plunged -into a thick bush of thorny trees, based upon a red -clayey soil caked into the semblance of a rock. Contrary -to expectation, when crossing a deep nullah trending -northwards, we found a little rusty, ochreish water, -in one of the cups and holes that dented the sandstone -of the soles. Thence the path, gradually descending, -fell into a coarse scrub, varied with small open savannahs, -and broken, like the rest of the road, by deep, -narrow watercourses, which carry off the waters of the -southern hills to the northern lowlands. About 6 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, -we came upon a cleared space in a thick thorn-jungle, -where we established ourselves for the night. The -near whine of the hyæna, and the alarm of the asses, -made sleep a difficulty. The impatience and selfishness -of thirst showed strongly in the Baloch. Belok -had five large gourds full of water, perhaps three gallons, -yet he would not part with a palmful to the sick -Ismail. That day I was compelled to dismiss my usual -ass-leader Shahdad, the zeze-player and fracturer of female -hearts, who preferring the conversation of his -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-206">[206]</span> -fellows, dragged the animal through thorns and alongside -of trees so artistically, that my nether garments -were soon in strips. I substituted for him Musa the -Greybeard, who, after a few days, begged, with bitter -tears, to be excused. It was his habit to hurry on -towards the kraal and shade, and the slow hobble of the -ass detained him a whole hour in sore discomfort. The -task was then committed to the tailor-youth Hudul, who -lost no time in declaring that I had abused him—that -he was a Baloch—that he was not an asinego. Then I -tried Abdullah,—the good young man. I dismissed him -because every day brought with it a fresh demand for -cloth or beads, gourds or sandals, for a “chit” to the -Balyuz—the Consul, or a general good character as regards -honesty, virtue, and the <i>et ceteras</i>. Finally the ass -was entrusted to the bull-headed slave Mabruki, who -thinking of nothing but chat with his “brother,” Seedy -Bombay, and having that curious mania for command -which seems part of every servile nature, hurried my -monture so recklessly, that earth-cracks and rat-holes -caused us twain many a severe fall. My companion -had entrusted himself to Bombay, who, though he did -nothing well rarely did anything very badly.</p> - -<p>The 4th September began with an hour’s toil through -the dense bush, to a rapid descent over red soil and -rocks, which necessitated frequent dismounting,—no -pleasant exercise after a sleepless night. Below, lay a -wide basin of rolling ground, surrounded in front by a -rim of hills. It was one of the many views which -“catching the reflex of heaven,” and losing by indistinctness -the harshness of defined outline and the deformity -of individual feature, assume, viewed from afar, -a peculiar picturesqueness. Traces of extensive cultivation, -flocks and herds, were descried in the lower -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-207">[207]</span> -levels, which were a network of sandy nullahs; and -upon the rises, the regular and irregular square or -oblong habitations, called “Tembe,” were seen for the first -time. Early September is, in this region, the depth of -winter. Under the burning, glaring sun, the grass -becomes white as the ground; the fields, stubbles stiff as -harrows, are stained only by the shadow of passing -clouds; the trees, except upon the nullah-banks, are -gaunt and bare, the animals are walking skeletons, and -nothing seems to flourish but flies and white ants, -caltrops and grapple-plants. After crossing deep water-cuts -trending N.E. and N.N.E., we descended a sharp -incline and a rough ladder of boulders, and found a -dirty and confined kraal, on the side of a rocky khad<a id="FNanchor8"></a><a href="#Footnote8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> or -ravine, which drains off the surplus moisture of the -westerly crags and highlands, and which affords sweet -springs, that cover the soil as far as they extend with a -nutritious and succulent grass. As this was to be a -halting-place, a more than usually violent rush was -made by the Baloch, the sons of Ramji, and the -porters, to secure the best quarters. The Jemadar -remaining behind with three of the Wanyamwezi, who -were unable to walk, did not arrive till after noon, and -my companion, suffering from a paroxysm of bilious -fever, came in even later. Valentine was weaker than -usual, and Gaetano groaned more frequently, “ang -duk’hta”—body pains! To add other troubles, an ass -had been lost, and “Khamsin,”—No. 50—my riding-animal, -had by breaking a tooth in fighting incapacitated -itself for food or drink: its feebleness compelled me -to transfer the saddle to the last of the Zanzibar riding-asses, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-208">[208]</span> -Siringe,—the Quarter-dollar—and Siringe, sadly -back-sore, cowering in the hams, and slipping from -under me every few minutes, showed present signs of -giving in.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote8"></a><a href="#FNanchor8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> -The Indian “khad” is the deep rocky drain in hilly countries, thus -differing from the popular idea of a “ravine,” and from the nullah, which is -a formation in more level lands.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>The basin of Inenge lies at the foot of the Rubeho -or “Windy Pass,” the third and westernmost range of -the Usagara Mountains. The climate, like that of -Rumuma, is ever in extremes—during the day a furnace, -and at night a refrigerator—the position is a funnel, -which alternately collects the fiery sunbeams and the -chilly winds that pour down from the misty highlands. -The villagers of the settlements overlooking the ravine, -flocked down to barter their animals and grain. Here, -for the first time since our departure from the coast, -honey, clarified butter, and, greatest boon of all, milk, -fresh and sour, were procurable. The man who has -been restricted to a diet so unwholesome as holcus -and bajri, with an occasional treat of kennel-food,—broth -and beans,—will understand that the first unexpected -appearance of milk, butter, and honey formed -an epoch in our journey.</p> - -<p>The halt was celebrated with abundant drumming and -droning, which lasted half the night; it served to cheer the -spirits of the men, who had talked of nothing the whole -day but the danger of being attacked by the Wahumba. -On the next morning arrived a caravan of about 400 -Wanyamwezi porters marching to the coast, under the -command of Isa bin Hijji and three other Arab merchants. -An interchange of civilities took place. The -Arabs lacking cloth could not feed their slaves and -porters, who deserted daily, imperilling a valuable -investment in ivory. The Europeans could afford a -small contribution of three Gorah or pieces of -domestics: they received a present of fine white -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-209">[209]</span> -rice, a few pounds of salt, and a goat, in exchange -for a little perfumed snuff and assafœtida, which after -a peculiar infusion is applied to wounds, and which, administered -internally, is considered a remedy for many -complaints. I was allured to buy a few yards of rope, -indispensable for packing the animals. The number of -our asses being reduced from thirty to fifteen, and the -porters from thirty-six to thirty, it was necessary to -recruit. The Arabs sold two Wanyamwezi animals for -ten dollars each, payable at Zanzibar. One proved -valuable as a riding ass, and carried me to the Central -Lake, and back to Unyanyembe: the other, though caponized -and blind on the off-side, had become by bad treatment -so obstinate and so cleverly vicious, that the Baloch -called him “Shaytan yek-cham,” or the “one-eyed -fiend:” he carried, besides sundries, four boxes of ammunition, -weighing together 160 pounds, and even under -these he danced like a deer. Nothing was against him -but his character: after a few days he was cast adrift in -the wilderness of Mgunda M’khali, because no man -dared to load and lead him. Knowing that the Arab -merchants upon this line hold it a point of honour to -discourage, by refusing a new engagement, the down-porters -in their proclivity to desert, and believing that -it was a stranger’s duty to be even stricter than they -are, I gave most stringent orders that any fugitive -porter detected in my caravan should be sent back a -prisoner to his employers. But the Coast-Arabs and -the Wasawahili ignore this commercial chivalry, and -shamelessly offer a premium to “levanters:” moreover, -in these lands it is hard to make men understand the -<i>rapport</i> between sayings and doings. Seven or eight -fellows, who secretly left the party, were sent back; -one, however, was taken on without my knowledge. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-210">[210]</span> -Said bin Salim persuaded the merchants to lend us the -services of three Wanyamwezi, who for sums varying from -eight Shukkah to two cloths, and a coil large enough -to make three wire bracelets, undertook to carry packs -as far as Unyanyembe. Our Ras Kafilah had increased -in Uzaramo his suite by the addition of “Zawada,”—the -“nice gift,” a parting present of the headman -Kizaya. She was a woman about thirty, with a black -skin shining like a patent-leather boot, a bulging brow, -little red eyes, a wide mouth which displayed a few long, -strong, scattered teeth, and a figure considerably too -bulky for her thin legs, which were unpleasantly straight, -like ninepins. Her <i>morale</i> was superior to her <i>physique</i>; -she was a patient and hard-working woman, and respectable -in the African acceptation of the term. She was at -once married off to old Musangesi, one of the donkey-men, -whose nose and chin made him a caricature of our -dear old friend Punch. After detecting her in a lengthy -walk, perhaps not solitary, through the jungle, he was -palpably guilty of such cruelty that I felt compelled to -decree a dissolution of the marriage. After passing -through sundry adventures she returned safely to Zanzibar, -where, for aught I know, she may still grace -the harem of Said bin Salim. At Inenge another female -slave was added to the troop, in the person of the lady -Sikujui, “Don’t know,” a “mulier nigris dignissima -barris,” whose herculean person and virago manner -raised her value to six cloths and a large coil of brass -wire. The channel of her upper lip had been pierced to -admit a disk of bone; her Arab master had attempted -to correct the disfigurement by scarification and the use -of rock-salt, yet the distended muscles insisted upon projecting -sharply from her countenance, like a duck’s bill, -or the beak of an ornithorhyncus. This truly African -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-211">[211]</span> -ornamentation would have supplied another instance to -the ingenious author of “Anthropometamorphosis.”<a id="FNanchor9"></a><a href="#Footnote9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> -“Don’t know’s” morals were frightful. She was duly -espoused—as the forlorn hope of making her an “honest -woman”—to Goha, the sturdiest of the Wak’hutu porters; -after a week she treated him with a sublime contempt. -She gave him first one, then a dozen rivals; -she disordered the caravan by her irregularities; she -broke every article entrusted to her charge, as the -readiest way of lightening her burden, and—“le moindre -défaut d’une femme galante est de l’être”—she deserted -so shamelessly that at last Said bin Salim disposed of -her, at Unyanyembe, for a few measures of rice, to a -travelling trader, who came the next morning to complain -of a broken head.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote9"></a><a href="#FNanchor9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> -Anthropometamorphosis: Man-transformed: or the Artificial Changeling, -historically presented, In the mad and cruel Gallantry, foolish Bravery, -Ridiculous Beauty, filthy Finenesse, and loathsome Loveliness of most -NATIONS, fashioning and attiring their Bodies from the mould intended -by NATURE; with figures of these Transfigurations. To which artificial -and affected Deformations are added, all the Native and National -Monstrosities that have appeared to disfigure the Humane Fabrick. With -a VINDICATION of the Regular Beauty and Honesty of NATURE. -With an Appendix of the Pedigree of the ENGLISH GALLANT. -Scripsit J. B. Cognomento Chirosophus, M.D “In nova fert animus, -mutatas dicere formas.” London: Printed by William Hunt, Anno. Dom. -1653.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>Isa bin Hijji did us various good services. He and -his companions kindly waited some days to superintend -our preparations for crossing the Rubeho Range. They -supplied useful hints for keeping the caravan together -at different places infamous for desertion. They gave -me valuable information about Ugogo and Ujiji, and -they placed at my disposal their house at Unyanyembe. -They “wigged” the Kirangozi, or guide, for carelessness -in not building a kraal-fence every night, and for -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-212">[212]</span> -not bringing in, as the custom is, wood and water. -Kidogo was reproved for allowing his men to load our -asses with their luggage, and the Baloch for their continual -complaints about food. The latter had long forgotten -the promises made at Muhama; they returned -at every opportunity to their old tactic, that of obtaining, -by all manner of pretexts, as much cloth and beads as -possible, ostensibly for provisions, really for trading and -buying slaves. At Rumuma they declared that one -cloth per diem starved them. Said bin Salim sent -them its value, about fifty pounds of beans, and they -had abundant rations of beef and mutton, but they -could not eat beans. At Inenge they wanted flour, and -as the country people sold only grain, they gave themselves -up to despair. I sent for the Jemadar and told -him, in presence of the merchants, that, as a fitting -opportunity had presented itself, I was willing to weed -the party, by giving official dismissal to Khudabakhsh -and Belok, to the invalid Ismail and his musical -“brother” Shahdad. All four, when consulted, declared -that they would die rather than blacken their faces by -abandoning the “Haji Abdullah;” that same evening, -however, as I afterwards learned, they wrote, by means -of the Arabs, a heartrending complaint to their chief -Jemadar at Zanzibar, declaring that he had thrown -them into the fire (of affliction), and that their blood -was upon his hands. My companion prepared official -papers and maps for the Secretary of the Royal Geographical -Society, and I again indented upon the Consul -and the Collector of Customs for drugs, medical comforts, -and an extra supply of cloth and beads, to the -extent of 400 dollars, for which a cheque upon my -agents in Bombay was enclosed. The Arabs took leave -of us on the 2nd September. I charged them repeatedly -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-213">[213]</span> -not to spread reports of our illness, and I saw them -depart with regret. It had really been a relief to hear -once more the voice of civility and sympathy.</p> - -<p>The great labour still remained. Trembling with -ague, with swimming heads, ears deafened by weakness, -and limbs that would hardly support us, we contemplated -with a dogged despair the apparently perpendicular -path that ignored a zigzag, and the ladders of -root and boulder, hemmed in with tangled vegetation, up -which we and our starving drooping asses were about to -toil. On the 10th September we hardened our hearts, and -began to breast the Pass Terrible. My companion was -so weak that he required the aid of two or three supporters; -I, much less unnerved, managed with one. After -rounding in two places wall-like sheets of rock—at their -bases green grass and fresh water were standing close to -camp, and yet no one had driven the donkeys to feed—and -crossing a bushy jungly step, we faced a long steep of -loose white soil and rolling stones, up which we could see -the Wanyamwezi porters swarming, more like baboons -scaling a precipice than human beings, and the asses falling -after every few yards. As we moved slowly and -painfully forwards, compelled to lie down by cough, -thirst, and fatigue, the “sayhah” or war-cry rang loud -from hill to hill, and Indian files of archers and spearmen -streamed like lines of black ants in all directions -down the paths. The predatory Wahumba, awaiting the -caravan’s departure, had seized the opportunity of driving -the cattle and plundering the villages of Inenge. Two -passing parties of men, armed to the teeth, gave us this -information; whereupon the negro “Jelai” proposed, -fear-maddened—a <i>sauve qui peut</i>—leaving to their fate -his employers, who, bearing the mark of Abel in this land -of Cain, were ever held to be the head and front of all -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-214">[214]</span> -offence. Khudabakhsh, the brave of braves, being attacked -by a slight fever, lay down, declaring himself -unable to proceed, moaned like a bereaved mother, and -cried for drink like a sick girl. The rest of the Baloch, -headed by the Jemadar, were in the rear; they had -levelled their matchlocks at one of the armed parties -as it approached them, and, but for the interference of -Kidogo, blood would have been shed.</p> - -<p>By resting after every few yards, and by clinging to our -supporters, we reached, after about six hours, the summit -of the Pass Terrible, and there we sat down amongst the -aromatic flowers and bright shrubs—the gift of mountain -dews—to recover strength and breath. My companion -could hardly return an answer; he had advanced -mechanically and almost in a state of coma. The view -from the summit appeared eminently suggestive, perhaps -unusually so, because disclosing a retrospect of -severe hardships, now past and gone. Below the foreground -of giant fractures, huge rocks, and detached -boulders, emerging from a shaggy growth of mountain -vegetation, with forest glens and hanging woods, black -with shade gathering in the steeper folds, appeared, -distant yet near, the tawny basin of Inenge, dotted with -large square villages, streaked with lines of tender green, -that denoted the water-courses, mottled by the shadows -of flying clouds, and patched with black where the grass -had been freshly fired. A glowing sun gilded the canopy -of dense smoke which curtained the nearer plain, and -in the background the hazy atmosphere painted with -its azure the broken wall of hill which we had traversed -on the previous day.</p> - -<p>Somewhat revived by the <i>tramontana</i> which rolled -like an ice-brook down the Pass, we advanced over an -easy step of rolling ground, decked with cactus and the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-215">[215]</span> -flat-topped mimosa, with green grass and bright shrubs, -to a small and dirty khambi, in a hollow flanked by -heights, upon which several settlements appeared. At -this place, called the “Great Rubeho,” in distinction -from its western neighbour, I was compelled to halt. -My invalid sub. had been seized with a fever-fit that -induced a dangerous delirium during two successive -nights; he became so violent that it was necessary to -remove his weapons, and, to judge from certain symptoms, -the attack had a permanent cerebral effect. Death -appeared stamped upon his features, yet the Baloch and -the sons of Ramji clamoured to advance, declaring that -the cold disagreed with them.</p> - -<p>On the 12th September the invalid, who, restored -by a cool night, at first proposed to advance, and then -doubted his ability to do so, was yet hesitating when -the drum-signal for departure sounded without my -order. The Wanyamwezi porters instantly set out. I -sent to recal them, but they replied that it was the -custom of their race never to return; a well-sounding -principle against which they never offended except to -serve their own ends. At length a hammock was rigged -up for my companion, and the whole caravan broke -ground.</p> - -<p>The path ran along the flank of an eminence, and, -ascending a second step, as steep but shorter than the -Pass Terrible, placed us at the Little Rubeho, or -Windy Pass, the summit of the third and westernmost -range of the Usagara Mountains, raised 5,700 feet above -the sea-level. It is the main water-parting of this ghaut-region. -At Inenge the trend is still to the S.E.; beyond -Rubeho the direction is S.W. Eventually, however, -the drainage of both slope and counter-slope finds -its way to the Indian Ocean, the former through the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-216">[216]</span> -Mukondokwa and the Kingani, the latter through the -Rwaha and the Rufiji Rivers.</p> - -<p>A lively scene awaited my arrival at the “Little -Rubeho.” From a struggling mass of black humanity, -which I presently determined to be our porters, proceeded -a furious shouting and yelling. Spears and -daggers flashed in the sun, and cudgels played with a -threshing movement which promised many a broken -head. At the distance of a few yards, with fierce faces and -in motionless martial attitudes, the right hand upon the -axe-handle stuck in the waist-belt, and the left grasping -the bow and two or three polished assegais, stood a -few strong fellows, the forlorn hope of the fray. In -the midst of the crowd, like Norman Ramsay’s troop -begirt by French cavalry—to compare small things with -great—rose and fell the chubby, thickset forms of Muinyi -Wazira and his four Wak’hutu, who, undaunted by numbers, -were dealing death to nose and scalp. Charge! -Mavi ya Gnombe (“Bois de Vache”) charge! On! -Mashuzi (“Fish Fry-soup”) on! Bite, Kuffan Kwema -(“To die is good”) bite, Smite, Na daka Mali (“I want -wealth”) smite! At length, when</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Blood (t’was from the nose) began to flow,”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">a little active interference rescued the five “enfans -perdus.” The porters had been fighting upon the -question whether the men with small-pox should, or -should not, be admitted into the kraal, and Muinyi -Wazira and his followers, under the influence of potations -which prevented their distinguishing friend from -foe, had proved themselves, somewhat unnecessarily -heroes. It is usually better to let these quarrels work -themselves out; if prematurely cut short, the serpent, -wrath, is scotched, not slain. A little “punishment” -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-217">[217]</span> -always cools the blood, and secures peace and quiet -for the future. Moreover, the busy peacemaker here -often shares the fate of M. Porceaugnac, and earns -the reward of those who, according to the proverb, -in quarrels interpose. It is vain to investigate, -where all is lie, the origin of the squabble. Nothing -easier, as the Welsh justice was fond of declaring, than -to pronounce judgment after listening to one side of the -question; but an impartial hearing of both would strike -the inquiring mind with a sense of impotence. Perhaps -it is not unadvisable to treat the matter after the fashion -adopted by a “police-officer,” a certain captain in the -<i>X. Y. Z.</i> army, who deemed it his duty to discourage -litigiousness and official complaints amongst the -quarrelsome Sindhi population of Hyderabad. The -story is somewhat out of place; though so being, I will -here recount it.</p> - -<p>Would enter, for instance, two individuals in an -oriental costume considerably damaged; one has a -cloth carefully tied round his head, the other has artificially -painted his eye and his ear with a few drops -of blood from the nose. They express their emotions -by a loud drumming of the tom-tom accompanying -the high-sounding Cri de Haro—Faryad! Faryad! -<span class="nowrap">Faryad!—</span></p> - -<p>“I’ll ‘Faryad’ yer, <span class="nowrap">ye”——</span></p> - -<p>After these, the usual appellatives with which the -“native” was in those days, on such occasions received, -the plaintiff is thus <span class="nowrap">addressed:—</span></p> - -<p>“Well, you—fellow! your complaint, what is it?”</p> - -<p>“Oh, Sahib! Oh, cherisher of the poor! this man who -is, the same hath broken into my house, and made me -eat a beating, and called my ma and sister naughty -names, and hath stolen my brass pot, and—”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-218">[218]</span></p> - -<p>“Bas! bas! enough!” cries the beak; “tie him”—the -defendant—“up, and give him three dozen with -thine own hand.”</p> - -<p>The wrathful plaintiff, as may be imagined, is -nothing loath. After being vigorously performed upon -by the plaintiff aforesaid, the defendant is cast loose, -and is in turn addressed as <span class="nowrap">follows:—</span></p> - -<p>“Well, now, you fellow! what say you?”</p> - -<p>“Oh, my lord and master! Oh, dispenser of justice! -what lies hath not this man told? What abominations -hath he not devoured? Behold (pointing to his war-paint) -the sight! He hath met me in the street; he -hath thrown me down; he hath kicked and trampled -upon me; he hath—”</p> - -<p>“Bas! enough!” again cries the beak: “tie him—the -plaintiff—up, and see if you can give <i>him</i> a good -three dozen.”</p> - -<p>Again it may be imagined that the three dozen -are well applied by the revengeful defendant, and that -neither that plaintiff nor that defendant ever troubled -that excellent “police-officer” again.</p> - -<p>On Rubeho’s summit we found a single village of -villanous Wasagara; afterwards “made clean”—as the -mild Hindu expresses the extermination of his fellow-men—by -a caravan in revenge for the murder of a porter. -We were delayed on the hill-top a whole day, despite -the extreme discomfort of all hands. Water had to be -fetched from a runnel that issued from a rusty pool -shaded by tilted-up strata of sandstone, at least a -mile distant from camp. Rain fell daily, alternating -with eruptions of sun; a stream of thick mist rolled -down the ravines and hollows, and at night the howling -winds made Rubeho their meeting-place. Yet neither -would the sons of Ramji carry my companion’s hammock, -nor would Said bin Salim allow his children -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-219">[219]</span> -to be so burdened; moreover, whatever measures one -attempted with the porters, the other did his best to -thwart. “Men,” say the Persians, “kiss an ass for an object.” -I attempted with Kidogo that sweet speech which, -according to Orientals, is stronger than chains, and administered -“goose’s oil” in such quantities that I was -graciously permitted to make an arrangement for the -transport of my companion with the Kirangozi.</p> - -<p>On the 14th September, our tempers being sensibly -cooled by the weather, we left the hill-top and broke -ground upon the counterslope or landward descent of -the Usagara Mountains. Following a narrow footpath -that wound along the hill-flanks, on red earth growing -thick clumps of cactus and feathery mimosa, after -forty-five minutes’ march we found a kraal in a swampy -green gap, bisected by a sluggish rivulet that irrigated -scanty fields of grain, gourds, and water-melons, the -property of distant villagers. For the first time since -many days I had strength enough to muster the porters -and to inspect their loads. The outfit, which was expected -to last a year, had been half exhausted in three -months. I summoned Said bin Salim, and passed on to -him my anxiety. Like a veritable Arab, he declared, -without the least emotion, that we had enough to reach -Unyanyembe, where we certainly should be joined by the -escort of twenty-two porters. “But how do you know -that?” I inquired. “Allah is all-knowing,” replied -Said; “but the caravan <i>will</i> come.” Such fatalism is -infectious. I ceased to think upon the subject.</p> - -<p>On the 15th September, after sending forward the -luggage, and waiting as agreed upon for the return of -the porters to carry my companion, I set out about -noon, through hot sunshine tempered by the cool hill-breeze. -Emerging from the grassy hollow, the path -skirted a well-wooded hill and traversed a small savannah, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-220">[220]</span> -overgrown with stunted straw and hedged in by a -bushy forest. At this point massive trees, here single, -there in holts and clumps, foliaged more gloomily than -churchyard yews, and studded with delicate pink-flowers, -rose from the tawny sun-burned expanse around, -and defended from the fiery glare braky rings of emerald -shrubbery, sharply defined as if by the forester’s -hand. The savannah extended to the edge of a step -which, falling deep and steep, suddenly disclosed to -view, below and far beyond the shaggy ribs and the dark -ravines and folds of the foreground, the plateau of -Ugogo and its Eastern desert. The spectacle was -truly impressive. The vault above seemed “an ample -æther,” raised by its exceeding transparency higher -than it is wont to be. Up to the curved rim of the -western horizon, lay, burnished by the rays of a burning -sun, plains rippled like a yellow sea by the wavy -reek of the dancing air, broken towards the north by -a few detached cones rising island-like from the surface, -and zebra’d with long black lines, where bush and scrub -and strip of thorn jungle, supplanted upon the watercourses, -trending in mazy network southwards to the -Rwaha River, the scorched grass and withered canes-stubbles, -which seemed to be the staple growth of the -land. There was nothing of effeminate or luxuriant -beauty, nothing of the flush and fulness characterising -tropical Nature, in this first aspect of Ugogo. It appeared -what it is, stern and wild,—the rough nurse -of rugged men,—and perhaps the anticipation of dangers -and difficulties ever present to the minds of those -preparing to endure the waywardness of its children, -contributed not a little to the fascination of the scene. -After lingering for a few minutes upon the crest of the -step, with feelings which they will understand who -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-221">[221]</span> -after some pleasant months—oases in the grim deserts -of Anglo-Indian life—spent among the tree-clad heights, -the breezy lakes, and the turfy valleys of the Himalayas -and the Neilgherries, sight from their last vantage-ground -the jaundiced and fevered plains below, we -scrambled down an irregular incline of glaring red clay -and dazzling white chalk, plentifully besprinkled with -dark-olive silex in its cherty crust. Below the descent -was a level space upon a long ridge, where some small -villages of Wasagara had surrounded themselves with -dwarf fields of holcus, bajri, and maize. A little beyond -this spot, called the “Third Rubeho,” we found a comfortless -kraal on uneven ground, a sloping ledge sinking -towards a deep ravine.</p> - -<p>At the third Rubeho we were delayed for a day—as -is customary before a “Tirikeza”—by the necessity of -laying in supplies for a jungle march, and by the -quarrels of the men. The Baloch were cross as naughty -children, ever their case when cold and hungry: warm -and full, they become merry as crickets. The Kirangozi -in hot wrath brought his flag to Said bin -Salim, and threatened to resign, because he had been -preceded on the last stage by two of the Baloch: his -complaints of this highly irregular proceeding were -with difficulty silenced by force of beads. I remarked, -however, a few days afterwards, when travelling through -Ugogo, that the Kirangozi, considering himself in -danger, applied to me for a vanguard of matchlockmen. -The sons of Ramji combined with the porters in refusing -to carry my companion, and had Bombay and -Mabruki not shown good-will, we might have remained -a week in the acme of discomfort. The asses, -frightened by wild beasts, broke loose at night, and one -was lost. The atmosphere was ever in excesses of heat -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-222">[222]</span> -and cold: in the morning, a mist so thick that it displayed -a fog-rainbow—a segment of an arch, composed -of faint prismatic tints—rolled like a torrent down the -ravine in front: the sun, at noon, made us cower -under the thin canvas, and throughout the twenty-four -hours a gale like a “vent de bise,” attracted by the -heat of the western plains, swept the encamping ground.</p> - -<p>Sending forward my invalid companion in his hammock, -I brought up the rear: Said bin Salim, who had -waxed unusually selfish and surly, furtively left to us -the task; he wore only sandals—he could not travel by -night. Some of the Baloch wept at the necessity of -carrying their gourds and skins.</p> - -<p>On the 17th September, about 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, we resumed the -descent of the rugged mountains. The path wound -to the N.W. down the stony and bushy crest of a ridge -with a deep woody gap on the right hand: presently after -alternations of steep and step, and platforms patched -with odoriferous plants, it fell into the upper channel -of the Mandama or the Dungomaro, the “Devil’s Glen.” -Dungomaro in Kisawahili is the proper name of an evil -spirit, not in the European but in the African sense,—some -unblessed ghost who has made himself unpopular -to the general;—perhaps the term was a facetiousness -on the part of the sons of Ramji.</p> - -<p>It was a “via mala” down this great surface-drain of -the western slopes, over boulders and water-rolled stones -reposing upon deep sand, and with branches of thorny -trees in places canopying the bed. After a march of -five hours, I found the porters bivouacking upon a -softer spot, and with difficulty persuaded four of the -sons of Ramji to return and to assist the weary -stragglers: horns were sounded, and shots were fired -to guide the Baloch, who did not, however, arrive before -10 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-223">[223]</span></p> - -<p>On the 18th September, a final march of four hours -placed us in the plains of Ugogo. Leaving the place of -the last night’s bivouac, we pursued the line of the Dungomaro, -occasionally quitting it where boulders obstructed -progress, and presently we came to its lower -bed, where perennial rills, exuding from its earth-walls -and trickling down its side, veiled the bottom with a green -and shrubby perfumed vegetation. As the plain was -neared, the difficulties increased, and the scenery became -curious. The Dungomaro appeared a large crevasse in -lofty rocks of pink and gray granite, streaked with -white quartz, and pudding’d with greenstone and black -horneblend; the sole, strewed with a rugged layer of -blocks, was side-lined with narrow ledges and terraces -of brown humus, supporting dwarf cactus and stunted -thorny trees; whilst high above towered stony wooded -peaks, closing in the view on all sides. Farther down the -bed huge boulders, sunburnt, and stained by the courses -of rain-torrents, rose, perpendicularly as walls, to the -height of one hundred and one hundred and twenty feet, -and there the flooring was a sheet or slide of shiny and -shelving rock, with broad fissures, and steep drops, and -cups, “potholes,” baths, and basins, filed and cut by the -friction of the gravelly torrents, regularly as if turned -with the lathe. Where water lay, deep mud and thick -clumps of grass and reed forced the path to run along -the ledges at the sides of the base. Gradually, as the -angle of inclination became more obtuse, the bed -widened out, the tall stone-walls gave way to low earth-banks -clad with gum-trees; pits, serving as wells, appeared -in the deep loose sand, and the Dungomaro, becoming a -broad, smooth Fiumara, swept away verging southwards -into the plain. Before noon, I sighted from a sharp turn -in the bed our tent pitched under a huge sycomore, on a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-224">[224]</span> -level step that bounded the Fiumara to the right. It -was a pretty spot in a barren scene, grassy, and grown -with green mimosas, spreading out their feathery heads -like parachutes, and shedding upon the ground a filmy -shade that fluttered and flickered in the draughty -breeze.</p> - -<p>The only losses experienced during the scrambling -descent, were a gun-case, containing my companion’s -store of boots, and a chair and table. The latter, being -indispensable on a journey where calculations, composition, -and sketching were expected, I sent, during the -evening halts, a detachment consisting of Muinyi Wazira, -the Baloch, Greybeard Musa, and a party of slaves, to -bring up the articles, which had been cache’d on the -torrent bank. They returned with the horripilatory tale -of the dangers lately incurred by the Expedition, which -it appeared from them had been dogged by an army of -Wasagara, thirsting for blood and furious for booty:—under -such circumstances, how could they recover the -chair and table? Some months afterwards an up-caravan -commanded by a Msawahili found the articles lying -where we had left them, and delivered them, for a consideration, -to us at Unyanyembe. The party sent from -Ugogo doubtless had passed a quiet, pleasant day, dozing -in the shade at the nearest well.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-225">[225]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoi-11"> -<img src="images/i_illo253.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Maji ya W’heta, or the Jetting Fountain in K’hutu.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. VII.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE SECOND REGION.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The second or mountain region extends from the western -frontier of K’hutu, at the head of the alluvial valley, -in E. long. 37° 28′, to the province of Ugogi, the eastern -portion of the flat table-land of Ugogo, in E. long. 36° -14′. Its diagonal breadth is 85 geographical and rectilinear -miles; and native caravans, if lightly laden, generally -traverse it in three weeks, including three or four -halts. Its length cannot be estimated. According to the -guides, Usagara is a prolongation of the mountains of -Nguru, or Ngu, extending southwards, with a gap forming -the fluviatile valley of the Rwaha or Rufiji River, to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-226">[226]</span> -the line of highlands of which Njesa in Uhiao is supposed -to be the culminating apex: thus the feature would -correspond with the Eastern Ghauts of the Indian Peninsula. -The general law of the range is north and -south; in the region now under consideration, the trend -is from north by west to south by east, forming an angle -of 10° 12′ with the meridian. The Usagara chain is -of the first order in East Africa; it is indeed the -only important elevation in a direct line from the coast -to western Unyamwezi; it would hold, however, but -a low grade in the general system of the earth’s mountains. -The highest point above sea-level, observed by B. -P. Therm., was 5,700 feet; there are, however, peaks -which may rise to 6,000 and even to 7,000 feet, thus rivalling -the inhabited portion of the Neilgherries. As has -appeared, the chain, where crossed, was divided into -three parallel ridges by longitudinal plains.</p> - -<p>Owing to the lowness of the basal regions at the seaward -slope, there is no general prospect of the mountains -from the East, where, after bounding the plains -of K’hutu on the north, by irregular bulging lines of rolling -hill, the first gradient of insignificant height springs -suddenly from the plain. Viewed from the west, the -counterslope appears a long crescent, with the gibbus to -the front, and the cusps vanishing into distance; the -summit is in the centre of the half-moon, whose profile -is somewhat mural and regular. The flanks are -rounded lumpy cones, and their shape denotes an igneous -and primary origin, intersected by plains and basins, the -fractures of the rocky system. Internally the lay, as -in granitic formations generally, is irregular; the ridges, -preserving no general direction, appear to cross one -another confusedly. The slope and the counterslope -are not equally inclined. Here, as usual in chains fringing -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-227">[227]</span> -a peninsula, the seaward declivities are the more -abrupt; the landward faces are not only more elongated, -but they are also shortened in proportion as the plateau -into which they fall is higher than the mountain-plains -from which they rise. To enter, therefore, is more toilsome -than to return.</p> - -<p>From the mingling of lively colours, Usagara is delightful -to the eye, after the monotonous tracts of verdure -which pall upon the sight at Zanzibar and in the -river valleys. The subsoil, displayed in the deeper cuts -and ravines, is either of granite, greenstone, schiste, or a -coarse incipient sandstone, brown or green, and outcropping -from the ground with strata steeply tilted up. In -the higher elevations, the soil varies in depth from a -few inches to thirty feet; it is often streaked with long -layers of pebbles, apparently water-rolled. The colour -is either an ochreish brick-red, sometimes micaceous, and -often tinted with oxide of iron; or it is a dull grey, -the debris of comminuted felspar, which, like a mixture of -all the colours, appears dazzlingly white under the sun’s -rays. The plains and depressions are of black earth, -which after a few showers becomes a grass-grown sheet -of mire, and in the dry season a deeply-cracked, stubbly -savannah. Where the elevations are veiled from base -to summit with a thin forest, the crops of the greenstone -and sandstone strata appear through a brown coat -of fertile humus, the decay of vegetable matter. A fossil -Bulimus was found about 3,000 feet above sea-level, -and large Achatinæ, locally called Khowa, are scattered -over the surface. On the hill-sides, especially in the -lower slopes, are strewed and scattered erratic blocks and -boulders, and diminutive pieces of white, dingy-red, rusty-pink, -and yellow quartz, with large irregularly-shaped -fragments and small nodules of calcareous kunkur. Where -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-228">[228]</span> -water lies deep below the surface, the hills and hill-plains -are clothed with a thin shrubbery of mimosas and other -thorny gums. Throughout Eastern Africa these forests -are the only spots in which travelling is enjoyable: great -indeed is their contrast with the normal features—bald -glaring fields, fetid bush and grass, and monotonous -expanses of dull dead herbage, concealing swamps and -water-courses, hedged in by vegetation whose only -varieties are green, greener, and greenest. In these favoured -places the traveller appears surrounded by a thick -wood which he never reaches, the trees thinning out as -he advances. On clear and sunny days the scenery is -strange and imposing. The dark-red earth is prolonged -half-way up the tree-trunks by the ascending -and descending galleries of the termite: contrasting -with this peculiarly African tint, the foliage, mostly -confined to the upper branches, is of a tender and -lively green, whose open fret-work admits from above the -vivid blue or the golden yellow of an unclouded sky. -In the basins where water is nearer the surface, and -upon the banks of water-courses and rivulets, the sweet -and fertile earth produces a rich vegetation, and a -gigantic growth of timber, which distinguishes this -region from others further west. Usagara is peculiarly -the land of jungle-flowers, and fruits, whose characteristic -is a pleasant acidity, a provision of nature -in climates where antiseptics and correctives to bile -are almost necessaries of life. They are abundant, -but, being uncultivated, the fleshy parts are undeveloped. -In the plains, the air, heavy with the delicious -perfume of the jasmine (<i>Jasminum Abyssinicum?</i>), -with the strong odour of a kind of sage (<i>Salvia Africana</i>, -or <i>Abyssinica</i>?), and with the fragrant exhalations -of the mimosa-flowers, which hang like golden balls from -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-229">[229]</span> -the green clad boughs, forms a most enjoyable contrast -to the fetid exhalations of the Great Dismal Swamps -of the lowlands. The tamarind, everywhere growing -wild, is a gigantic tree. The Myombo, the Mfu’u, the -Ndábi, and the Mayágeá, a spreading tree with a large -fleshy red flower, and gourds about eighteen inches long -and hanging by slender cords, are of unusual dimensions; -the calabash is converted into a hut; and the sycomore, -whose favourite habitat is the lower counterslope of Usagara, -is capable of shading a regiment. On the steep -hill-sides, which here and there display signs of cultivation -and clearings of green or sunburnt grass, grow parachute-shaped -mimosas, with tall and slender trunks, and -crowned by domes of verdure, rising in tiers one above -the other, like umbrellas in a crowd.</p> - -<p>The plains, basins, and steps, or facets of table-land -found at every elevation, are fertilised by a stripe-work -of streams, runnels, and burns, which anastomosing in -a single channel, flow off into the main drain of the -country. Cultivation is found in patches isolated by -thick belts of thorny jungle, and the villages are few -and rarely visited. As usual in hilly countries, they -are built upon high ridges and the slopes of cones, for -rapid drainage after rain, a purer air and fewer mosquitoes, -and, perhaps, protection from kidnappers. The -country people bring down their supplies of grain and -pulse for caravans. There is some delay and difficulty -on the first day of arrival at a station, and provisions -for a party exceeding a hundred men are not to be -depended upon after the third or fourth marketing, -when the people have exhausted their stores. Fearing -the thievish disposition of the Wasagara, who will -attempt even to snatch away a cloth from a sleeping -man, travellers rarely lodge near the settlements. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-230">[230]</span> -Kraals of thorn, capacious circles enclosing straw -boothies, are found at every march, and, when burned -or destroyed by accident, they are rebuilt before -the bivouac. The roads, as usual in East Africa, are -tracks trodden down by caravans and cattle, and the -water-course is ever the favourite Pass. Many of the -ascents and descents are so proclivitous that donkeys -must be relieved of their loads; and in fording the sluggish -streams, where no grass forms a causeway over the -soft, viscid mire, the animals sink almost to the knees. -The steepest paths are those in the upper regions; in the -lower, though the inclines are often severe, they are -generally longer, and consequently easier. At the foot -of each hill there is either a mud or a water-course -dividing it from its neighbour. These obstacles greatly -reduce the direct distance of the day’s march.</p> - -<p>The mountains are well supplied with water, which tastes -sweet after the brackish produce of the maritime valley, -and good when not rendered soft and slimy by lying -long on rushy beds. Upon the middle inclines the -burns and runnels of the upper heights form terraces -of considerable extent, and of a picturesque aspect. -The wide and open sole, filled with the whitest and -cleanest sand, and retaining pools of fresh clear water, -or shallow wells, is edged by low steep ledges of -a dull red clay, lined with glorious patriarchs of the -forest, and often in the bed is a thickly wooded branch -or shoal-islet, at whose upper extremity heavy driftwood, -arrested by the gnarled mimosa-clumps, and the -wall of shrubs, attests the violence of the rufous-tinted -bore of waves with which a few showers fill the broadest -courses. Lower down the channels which convey to -the plains the surplus drainage of the mountains are -heaps and sheets of granite, with long reaches of rough -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-231">[231]</span> -gravel; their stony walls, overrun with vegetation, -tower high on either hand, and the excess of inclination -produces after heavy rains torrents like avalanches, -which cut their way deep into the lower plains. During -the dry season, water is drawn from pits sunk from a -few inches to 20 feet in the re-entering angles of the -beds. Fed by the percolations of the soil, they unite -the purity of springs with the abundance of rain-supplies,—a -comfort fully appreciated by down-caravans -after the frequent tirikeza, or droughty afternoon-marches -in the western regions.</p> - -<p>The versant of the mountains varies. In the seaward -and the central sections streams flow eastward, -and swell the Kingani and other rivers. The southern -hills discharge their waters south and south-west through -the Maroro River, and various smaller tributaries, into the -“Rwaha,” which is the proper name for the upper course -of the Rufiji. In the lateral plains between the ridges, -and in the hill-girt basins, stagnant pools, which even -during the Masika, or rainy season, inundate, but will -not flow, repose upon beds of porous black earth, and -engendering, by their profuse herbage of reeds and -rush-like grass, with the luxuriant crops produced by -artificial irrigation, a malarious atmosphere, cause a -degradation in the people.</p> - -<p>The climate of Usagara is cold and damp. It has -two distinct varieties, the upper regions being salubrious, -as the lower are unwholesome. In the sub-ranges -heavy exhalations are emitted by the decayed -vegetation, the nights are raw, the mornings chilly and -misty, and the days are bright and hot. In the higher -levels, near the sources of the Mukondokwa River, the -climate suggests the idea of the Mahabaleshwar and the -Neilgherry Hills in Western India. Compared with -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-232">[232]</span> -Uzaramo or Unyamwezi, these mountains are a sanatorium, -and should Europeans ever settle in Eastern Africa -as merchants or missionaries, here they might reside -until acclimatised for the interior. The east wind, a -local deflection of the south-east trade, laden with the -moisture of the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans, and -collecting the evaporation of the valley, impinges upon -the seaward slope, where, ascending, and relieved from -atmospheric pressure, it is condensed by a colder temperature; -hence the frequent precipitations of heavy rain, -and the banks and sheets of morning-cloud which veil -the tree-clad peaks of the highest gradients. As the -sun waxes hot, the atmosphere acquires a greater -capacity for carrying water; and the results are a milky -mist in the basins, and in the upper hills a wonderful -clearness broken only by the thin cirri of the higher -atmosphere. After sunset, again, the gradual cooling -of the air causes the deposit of a copious dew, which -renders the nights peculiarly pleasant to a European. -The diurnal sea-breeze, felt in the slope, is unknown -in the counterslope of the mountains, where, indeed, -the climate is much inferior to that of the central -and eastern heights. As in the Sawalik Hills, and -the sub-ranges of the Himalayas, the sun is burning hot -during the dry season, and in the rains there is either a -storm of thunder and lightning, wind and rain, or a -stillness deep and depressing, with occasional gusts whose -distinct moaning shows the highly electrical state of the -atmosphere. The Masika, here commencing in early -January, lasts three months, when the normal easterly -winds shift to the north and the north-west. The Vuli, -confined to the eastern slopes, occurs in August, and, as -on the plains, frequent showers fall between the vernal -and the autumnal rains.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-233">[233]</span></p> - -<p>The people of Usagara suffer in the lower regions from -severe ulcerations, from cutaneous disorders, and from -other ailments of the plain. Higher up they are healthier, -though by no means free from pleurisy, pneumonia, and -dysentery. Fever is common; it is more acute in the -range of swamps and decomposed herbage, and is milder -in the well-ventilated cols and on the hill-sides. The type -is rather a violent bilious attack, accompanied by remittent -febrile symptoms, than a regular fever. It begins -with cold and hot fits, followed by a copious perspiration, -and sometimes inducing delirium; it lasts as a -quotidian or a tertian from four to seven days; and -though the attacks are slight, they are followed by great -debility, want of appetite, of sleep, and of energy. This -fever is greatly exacerbated by exposure and fatigue, -and it seldom fails to leave behind it a legacy of cerebral -or visceral disease.</p> - -<p>The mountains of Usagara are traversed from east to -west by two main lines; the Mukondokwa on the northern -and the Kiringawana on the southern line. The -former was closed until 1856 by a chronic famine, the -result of such a neighbourhood as the Wazegura and the -people of Whinde on the east, the Wahumba and the -Wamasai northwards, and the Warori on the south-west. -In 1858 the mountaineers, after murdering by the vilest -treachery a young Arab trader, Salim bin Nasir, of the -Bu Saidi, or the royal family of Zanzibar, attempted to -plunder a large mixed caravan of Wanyamwezi and -Wasawahili, numbering 700 or 800 guns, commanded -by a stout fellow, Abdullah bin Nasib, called by the -Africans “Kisesa,” who carried off the cattle, burned the -villages, and laid waste the whole of the Rubeho or -western chain.</p> - -<p>The clans now tenanting these East African ghauts are -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-234">[234]</span> -the Wasagara,—with their chief sub-tribe the Wakwivi,—and -the Wahehe; the latter a small body inhabiting -the south-western corner, and extending into the plains -below.</p> - -<p>The limits of the Wasagara have already been laid -down by the names of the plundering tribes that surround -them. These mountaineers, though a noisy and -riotous race, are not overblessed with courage: they -will lurk in the jungle with bows and arrows to surprise -a stray porter; but they seem ever to be awaiting an -attack—the best receipt for inviting it. In the higher -slopes they are fine, tall and sturdy men; in the low -lands they appear as degraded as the Wak’hutu. They -are a more bearded race than any other upon this line -of East Africa, and, probably from extensive intercourse -with the Wamrima, most of them understand -the language of the coast. The women are remarkable -for a splendid development of limb, whilst the bosom is -lax and pendent.</p> - -<p>The Wasagara display great varieties of complexion, -some being almost black, whilst the others are chocolate-coloured. -This difference cannot be accounted for by the -mere effects of climate—level and temperature. Some -shave the head; others wear the Arab’s shushah, a kind of -skull-cap growth, extending more or less from the poll. -Amongst them is seen, for the first time on this line, the -classical coiffure of ancient Egypt. The hair, allowed to -attain its fullest length, is twisted into a multitude of -the thinnest ringlets, each composed of two thin lengths -wound together; the wiry stiffness of the curls keeps -them distinct and in position. Behind, a curtain of -pigtails hangs down to the nape; in front the hair is -either combed off the forehead, or it is brought over -the brow and trimmed short. No head-dress has a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-235">[235]</span> -wilder nor a more characteristically African appearance -than this, especially when, smeared with a pomatum of -micaceous ochre, and decorated with beads, brass balls, -and similar ornaments, it waves and rattles with every -motion of the head. Young men and warriors adorn -their locks with the feathers of vultures, ostriches, and -a variety of bright-plumed jays, and some tribes twist -each ringlet with a string of reddish fibre. It is seldom -combed out, the operation requiring for a head of thick -hair the hard work of a whole day; it is not, therefore, -surprising that the pediculus swarms through the land. -None but the chiefs wear caps. Both sexes distend the -ear-lobe; a hole is bored with a needle or a thorn, it -is enlarged by inserting bits of cane, wood, or quills, -increasing the latter to the number of twenty, and it is -kept open by a disk of brass, ivory, wood, or gum, a -roll of leaf or a betel-nut; thus deformed it serves for a -variety of purposes apparently foreign to the member; -it often carries a cane snuff-box, sometimes a goat’s-horn -pierced for a fife, and other small valuables. -When empty, especially in old age, it depends in a deformed -loop to the shoulders. The peculiar mark of -the tribe is a number of confused little cuts between the -ears and the eyebrows. Some men, especially in the -eastern parts of the mountains, chip the teeth to -points.</p> - -<p>The dress of the Wasagara is a shukkah or loin-cloth, -6 feet long, passed round the waist in a single fold,—otherwise -walking would be difficult—drawn tight -behind, and with the fore extremities gathered up, and -tucked in over the stomach, where it is sometimes supported -by a girdle of cord, leather, or brass wire: it is, -in fact, the Arab’s “uzár.” On journeys it is purposely -made short and scanty for convenience of running. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-236">[236]</span> -The material is sometimes indigo-dyed, at other -times unbleached cotton, which the Wasagara stain a -dull yellow. Cloth, however, is the clothing of the -wealthy. The poor content themselves with the calabash-“campestre” -or kilt, and with the softened skins of sheep -and goats. It is curious that in East Africa, where -these articles have from time immemorial been the -national dress, and where amongst some tribes hides -form the house, that the people have neither invented -nor borrowed the principles of rude tanning, even with -mimosa-bark, an art so well known to most tribes of -barbarians. Immediately after flaying, the stretched -skin is pegged, to prevent shrinking, inside upwards, in -the sun, and it is not removed till thoroughly cleansed -and dried. The many little holes in the margin give it -the semblance of ornamentation, and sometimes the hair -is scraped off, leaving a fringe two or three inches broad -around the edge: the legs and tail of the animal are -favourite appendages with “dressy gentlemen.” These -skins are afterwards softened by trampling, and they -are vigorously pounded with clubs: after a few days’ -wear, dirt and grease have almost done the duty of -tanning. The garb is tied over either shoulder by a bit -of cord or simply by knotting the corners; it therefore -leaves one side of the body bare, and, being loose and -ungirt, it is at the mercy of every wind. On journeys -it is doffed during rain, and placed between the burden -and the shoulder, so that, arrived at the encamping -ground, the delicate traveller may have a “dry shirt.”</p> - -<p>Women of the wealthier classes wear a tobe, or -double-length shukkah, tightly drawn under the arms, -so as to depress whilst it veils the bosom, and tucked in -at either side. Dark stuffs, indigo-dyed and Arab checks, -are preferred to plain white for the usual reasons. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-237">[237]</span> -dress of the general is a short but decorous jupe of -greasy skin, and a similar covering for the bosom, open -behind, and extending in front from the neck to the -middle of the body: the child is carried in another -skin upon the back. The poorest classes of both sexes -are indifferently attired in the narrow kilt of bark-fibre, -usually made in the maritime countries from -the ukhindu or brab tree; in the interior from -the calabash. The children wear an apron of thin -twine, like the Nubian thong-garments. Where beads -abound, the shagele, a small square napkin of these -ornaments strung upon thread, is fastened round -the waist by a string or a line of beads. There are -many fanciful modifications of it: some children wear -a screen of tin plates, each the size of a man’s finger: -most of the very juniors, however, are simply attired in -a cord, with or without beads, round the waist.</p> - -<p>The ornaments of the Wasagara are the normal beads -and wire, and their weight is the test of wealth and respectability. -A fillet of blue and white beads is bound -round the head, and beads,—more beads,—appear -upon the neck, the arms, and the ankles. The kitindi, -or coil of thick brass wire, extends from the elbow to -the wrist; others wear little chains or thick bangles of -copper, brass, or zinc, and those who can afford it twist -a few circles of brass wire under the knee. The arms of -the men are bows and arrows, the latter unpoisoned, but -armed with cruelly-barbed heads, and spines like fish-bones, -cut out in the long iron shaft which projects -from the wood. Their spears and assegais are made -from the old hoes which are brought down by the -Wanyamwezi caravans; the ferule is thin, and it is -attached to the shaft by a cylinder of leather from a -cow’s tail, drawn over the iron, and allowed to shrink -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-238">[238]</span> -at its junction with the wood: some assegais have a -central swell in the shaft, probably to admit of their -being used in striking like the rungu or knobstick. Men -seldom leave the house without a billhook of peculiar -shape—a narrow sharp blade, ending in a right angle, and -fixed in a wooden handle, with a projection rising above -the blade. The shield is rarely found on this line of East -Africa. In Usagara it is from three to four feet in -length by one to two feet in breadth, composed of two -parallel belts of hardened skin. The material is pegged -out to stretch and dry, carefully cleaned, sometimes -doubled, sewn together with a thin thong longitudinally, -and stained black down one side, and red down the -other. A stout lath is fastened lengthwise as a stiffener -to the shield, and a central bulge is made in the -hide, enabling the hand to grasp the wood. The favourite -materials are the spoils of the elephant, the -rhinoceros, and the giraffe; the common shields are of -bull’s-hide, and the hair is generally left upon the outside -as an ornament, with attachments of zebra and -cows’ tails. It is a flimsy article, little better than a -“wisp of fern or a herring-net” against an English -“clothyard:” it suffices, however, for defence against -the puny cane-arrows of the African archer.</p> - -<p>As a rule, each of these villages has its headman, who -owns, however, an imperfect allegiance to the Mutwa or -district chief, whom the Arabs call “sultan.” The Mgosi -is his wazir, or favourite councillor, and the elders or -headmen of settlements collectively are Wabáhá. Their -principal distinction is the right to wear a fez, or a -Surat cap, and the kizbáo, a sleeveless waistcoat. They -derive a certain amount of revenue by trafficking in -slaves: consequently many of the Wasagara find their -way into the market of Zanzibar. Moreover, the game-laws -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-239">[239]</span> -as regards elephants are here strictly in favour of -the Sultan. An animal found dead in his district, -though wounded in another, becomes his property on -condition of his satisfying his officials with small presents -of cloth and beads: the flesh is feasted upon by the -tribe, and the ivory is sold to travelling traders.</p> - -<p>The Wahehe, situated between the Wasagara and -Wagogo, partake a little of the appearance of both. -They are a plain race, but stout and well grown. Though -to appearance hearty and good-humoured, they are determined -pilferers: they have more than once attacked -caravans, and only the Warori have prevented them from -cutting off the road to Ugogo. During the return -of the Expedition in 1858 they took occasion to -drive off unseen a flock of goats; and at night no -man, unless encamped in a strong kraal, was safe from -their attempts to snatch his goods. On one occasion, -being caught in flagrant delict, they were compelled to -restore their plunder, with an equivalent as an indemnity. -They are on bad terms with all their neighbours, -and they unite under their chief Sultan Bumbumu.</p> - -<p>The Wahehe enlarge their ears like the Wagogo, they -chip the two upper incisors, and they burn beauty-spots -in their forearms. Some men extract three or four of -the lower incisors: whenever an individual without these -teeth is seen in Ugogo he is at once known as a Mhehe. -For distinctive mark they make two cicatrised incisions -on both cheeks from the zygomata to the angles of -the mouth. They dress like the Wagogo, but they -have less cloth than skins. The married women usually -wear a jupe, in shape recalling the old swallow-tailed -coat of Europe, with kitindi, or coil armlets of brass or -iron wire on both forearms and above the elbows. Unmarried -girls amongst the Wahehe are known by their -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-240">[240]</span> -peculiar attire, a long strip of cloth, like the Indian -“languti or T-bandage,” but descending to the knees, -and attached to waistbelts of large white or yellow porcelain -or blue glass beads. Over this is tied a kilt of -calabash fibre, a few inches deep. The men wear thick -girdles of brass wire, neatly wound round a small cord. -Besides the arms described amongst the Wasagara, the -Wahehe carry “sime,” or double-edged knives, from -one to two feet long, broadening out from the haft, and -rounded off to a blunt point at the end. The handle -is cut into raised rings for security of grip, and, when -in sheath, half the blade appears outside its rude -leathern scabbard. The Tembe, or villages of the -Wahehe, are small, ragged, and low, probably to facilitate -escape from attack. They do business in slaves, -and have large flocks and herds, which are, however, -often thinned by the Warori, whom the Wahehe dare -not resist in the field.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-241">[241]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoi-12"> -<img src="images/i_illo269.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Ugogo.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. VIII.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">WE SUCCEED IN TRAVERSING UGOGO.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">Ugogo, the reader may remember, was the ultimate -period applied to the prospects of the Exploration -by the worthy Mr. Rush Ramji, in conversation with -the respectable Ladha Damha, Collector of Customs, -Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>I halted three days at Ugogi to recruit the party and -to lay in rations for four long desert marches. Apparently -there was an abundance of provisions, but the -people at first declined to part with their grain and cattle -even at exorbitant prices, and the Baloch complained -of “cleanness of teeth.” I was visited by Ngoma Mroma, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-242">[242]</span> -<i>alias</i> Sultan Makande, a diwan or headman, from Ugogo, -here settled as chief, and well known on the eastern seaboard: -he came to offer his good services. But he talked -like an idiot, he begged for every article that met his -eye: and he wished me—palpably for his own benefit—to -follow the most northerly of the three routes leading -to Unyamwezi, upon which there were not less than eight -“sultans” described by Kidogo as being “one hungrier -than the other.” At last, an elephant having been found -dead within his limits, he disappeared, much to my -relief, for the purpose of enjoying a gorge of elephant-beef.</p> - -<p>Ugogi is the half-way district between the coast and -Unyanyembe, and it is usually made by up-caravans -at the end of the second month. The people of this -“no man’s land” are a mongrel race: the Wasagara -claim the ground, but they have admitted as settlers -many Wahehe and Wagogo, the latter for the most part -men who have left their country for their country’s good. -The plains are rich in grain, and the hills in cattle, when -not harried, as they had been, a little before our arrival, -by the Warori. The inhabitants sometimes offer for sale -milk and honey, eggs and ghee, but—only the civilised -rogue can improve by adulteration—the milk falls like -water off the finger, the honey is in the red stage of fermentation, -of the eggs there are few without the rude beginnings -of a chicken, and the ghee, from long keeping, -is sweet above and bitter below. The country still contains -game, kanga, or guinea-fowls, in abundance, the -ocelot, a hyrax like the coney of the Somali country, -and the beautiful “silver jackal.” The elephant and -the giraffe are frequently killed on the plains. The giraffe -is called by the Arabs Jamal el Wahshí, a translation of -the Kisawahili Ngamia ya Muytu, “Camel of the Wild,” -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-243">[243]</span> -and throughout the interior Tiga or Twiga. Their sign -is often seen in the uncultivated parts of the country; -but they wander far, and they are rarely found except by -accident; the hides are converted into shields and -saddle-bags, the long tufty tails into “chauri,” or fly-flappers, -and the flesh is a favourite food. At Ugogi, -however, game has suffered from the frequent haltings -of caravans, and from the carnivorous propensities of the -people, who, huntsmen all, leave their prey no chance -against their nets and arrows, their pitfalls and their -packs of yelping curs.</p> - -<p>Ugogi stands 2760 feet above sea level, and its climate, -immediately after the raw cold of Usagara, pleases by its -elasticity and by its dry healthy warmth. The nights -are fresh and dewless, and the rays of a tropical sun are -cooled by the gusts and raffales which, regularly as the -land and sea-breezes of the coast, sweep down the sinuosities -of Dungomaro. As our “gnawing stomachs” testified, -the air of Usagara had braced our systems. My -companion so far recovered health that he was able to bring -home many a brace of fine partridge, and of the fat guinea-fowl -that, clustering upon the tall trees, awoke the echoes -of the rocks as they called for their young. The Baloch, -the sons of Ramji, and the porters began to throw off the -effects of the pleurisies and the other complaints, which -they attributed to hardship and exposure on the mountain-tops. -The only obstinate invalids were the two Goanese. -Gaetano had another attack of the Mukunguru, or seasoning -fever, which, instead of acclimatising his constitution, -seemed by ever increasing weakness and depression, -to pave the way for a fresh visitation. Valentine, -with flowing eyes, pathetically pointed to two indurations -in his gastric region, and bewailed his hard fate in thus -being torn from the dearly-loved shades of Panjim -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-244">[244]</span> -and Margão, to fatten the inhospitable soil of Central -Africa.</p> - -<p>Immediately before departure, when almost in despair -at the rapid failure of our carriage—the asses were now -reduced to nine—I fortunately secured, for the sum of -four cloths per man, the services of fifteen Wanyamwezi -porters. In all a score, they had left at Ugogi their -Mtongi, or employer, in consequence of a quarrel concerning -<i>the</i> sex. They dreaded forcible seizure and sale -if found without protection travelling homewards -through Ugogo; and thus they willingly agreed to carry -our goods as far as their own country, Unyanyembe. -Truly is travelling like campaigning,—a pennyweight -of luck is better than a talent of all the -talents! And if marriages, as our fathers used to say, -are made in the heavens, the next-door manufactory -must be devoted to the fabrication of African explorations. -Notwithstanding, however, the large increase of -conveyance, every man appeared on the next march -more heavily laden than before:—they carried grain -for six days, and water for one night.</p> - -<p>From Ugogi to the Ziwa or Pond, the eastern limits -of Ugogo, are four marches, which, as they do not supply -provisions, and as throughout the dry season water is -found only in one spot, are generally accomplished in -four days. The lesser desert, between Ugogi and Ugogo, -is called Marenga M’khali, or the Brackish Water: it -must not be confounded with the district of Usagara -bearing the same name.</p> - -<p>We left Ugogi on the 22nd September, at 3 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, instead -of at noon. As all the caravan hurried recklessly -forward, I brought up the rear accompanied by Said bin -Salim, the Jemadar, and several of the sons of Ramji, -who insisted upon driving the asses for greater speed at -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-245">[245]</span> -a long trot, which, after lasting a hundred yards, led to -an inevitable fall of the load. Before emerging from -Ugogi, the road wound over a grassy country, thickly -speckled with calabashes. Square Tembe appeared on -both sides, and there was no want of flocks and herds. -As the villages and fields were left behind, the land became -a dense thorny jungle, based upon a sandy red soil. -The horizon was bounded on both sides by gradually-thinning -lines of lumpy outlying hill, the spurs of the -Rubeho Range, that extended, like a scorpion’s claws, -westward; and the plain, gently falling in the same -direction, was broken only by a single hill-shoulder -and by some dwarf descents. As we advanced through -the shades—a heavy cloud-bank had shut out the -crescent moon—our difficulties increased; thorns and -spiky twigs threatened the eyes; the rough and rugged -road led to many a stumble, and the frequent whine of -the cynhyæna made the asses wild with fear. None but -Bombay came out to meet us; the porters were overpowered -by their long march under the fiery sun. About -8 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, directed by loud shouts and flaring fires, we -reached a kraal, a patch of yellow grass, offering clear -room in the thorny thicket. That night was the perfection -of a bivouac, cool from the vicinity of the hills, -genial from their shelter, and sweet as forest-air in -these regions ever is.</p> - -<p>On the next day we resumed our labour betimes: -for a dreary and thirsty stage lay before us. Toiling -through the sunshine of the hot waste I could not but -remark the strange painting of the land around. At -a distance the plain was bright-yellow with stubble, -and brown-black with patches of leafless wintry jungle -based upon a brick-dust soil. A closer approach disclosed -colours more vivid and distinct. Over the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-246">[246]</span> -ruddy plain lay scattered untidy heaps of grey granite -boulders, surrounded and capped by tufts of bleached -white grass. The copse showed all manner of strange -hues, calabashes purpled and burnished by sun and rain, -thorns of a greenish coppery bronze, dead trees with -trunks of ghastly white, and gums (the blue-gum tree -of the Cape?) of an unnatural sky-blue, the effect of the -yellow outer pellicle being peeled off by the burning -rays, whilst almost all were reddened up to a man’s -height, by the double galleries, ascending and descending, -of the white ants. Here too, I began to appreciate the -extent of the nuisance, thorns. Some were soft and green, -others a finger long, fine, straight and woody—they serve -as needles in many parts of the country—one, a “corking -pin,” bore at its base a filbert-like bulge, another was -curved like a cock’s spur; the double thorns, placed dos-à-dos, -described by travellers in Abyssinia and in the Cape -Karroos, were numerous, the “wait-a-bit,” a dwarf -sharply bent spine with acute point and stout foundation, -and a smaller variety, short and deeply crooked, -numerous and tenacious as fish-hooks, tore without -difficulty the strongest clothing, even our woollen -Arab “Abas,” and our bed-covers of painted canvas.</p> - -<p>Travelling through this broom-jungle and crossing -grassy plains, over paths where the slides of elephants’ -feet upon the last year’s muddy clay showed that the -land was not always dry, we halted after 11 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> for about -an hour at the base of a steep incline, apparently an offset -from the now distant Rubeho Range. The porters -would have nighted at the mouth of a small drain -which, too steep for ascent, exposed in its rocky bed -occasional sand-patches and deep pools; Kidogo, however, -forced them forwards, declaring that if the asses -drank of this “brackish water,” they would sicken and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-247">[247]</span> -die. His assertion, suspected of being a “traveller’s -tale,” was subsequently confirmed by the Arabs of -Unyanyembe, who declared that the country people -never water their flocks and herds below the hill; there -may be poisonous vegetation in the few yards between -the upper and the lower pools, but no one offered any -explanation of the phenomenon.</p> - -<p>Ascending with difficulty the eastern face of the -step, which presented two ladders of loose stones and -fixed boulders of grey syenite, hornblende, and greenstone, -with coloured quartzes, micacious schistes, and layers of -talcose slate glittering like mother-o’-pearl upon the -surface, we found a half-way platform some 150 feet of -extreme breadth. Upon its sloping and irregular floor, -black-green pools, sadly offensive to more senses than -one, spring-fed, and forming the residue of the rain-water -which fills the torrent, lay in muddy holes broadly fringed -with silky grass. Travellers drink without fear this -upper Marenga Mk’hali, which, despite its name, is -rather soft and slimy, than brackish, and sign of wild-beasts—antelope -and buffalo, giraffe and rhinoceros—appear -upon its brink. It sometimes dries up in the -heart of the hot season, and then deaths from thirst -occur amongst the porters who, mostly Wanyanwezi, are -not wont to practise abstinence in this particular. -“Sucking-places” are unknown to them, water-bearing -bulbs might here be discovered by the South African -traveller; as a rule, however, the East African is so -plentifully supplied with the necessary that he does not -care to provide for a dry day by unusual means. Ascending -another steep incline we encamped upon a small -step, the half-way gradient of a higher level.</p> - -<p>The 24th Sept. was to be a tirikeza: the Baloch and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-248">[248]</span> -the sons of Ramji spent the earlier half in blowing -away gunpowder at antelope, partridge and parrot, -guinea-fowl and floriken, but not a head of game found -its way into camp. The men were hot, tired and testy, -those who had wives beat them, those who had not “let -off the steam” by quarreling with one another. Said -bin Salim, sick and surly, had words concerning a water-gourd -with the brave Khudabakhsh, and the monocular -Jemadar, who made a point of overloading his porters, -bitterly complained because they would not serve him. -At 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> we climbed up the last ladder of the rough -and stony incline, which placed us a few hundred feet -above the eastern half of the Lesser Desert. We took -a pleasant leave of the last of the rises; on this line -of road, between Marenga Mk’hali and Western Unyamwezi, -the land, though rolling, has no steep ascents nor -descents.</p> - -<p>From the summit of the Marenga Mk’hali step we -travelled till sunset—the orb of day glaring like a fireball -in our faces,—through dense thorny jungle and over -grassy plains of black, cracked earth, in places covered -with pebbles and showing extensive traces of shallow inundations -during the rains; in the lower lands huge -blocks of weathered granite stood out abruptly from the -surface, and on both sides, but higher on the right hand, -rose blue cones, some single, others in pairs like -“brothers.” The caravan once rested in a thorny coppice, -based upon rich red and yellow clay whence it was -hurriedly dislodged by a swarm of wild bees. As the sun -sank below the horizon the porters called a halt on a -calabash-grown plain, near a block of stony hill veiled -with cactus and mimosa, below whose northern base ran -a tree-lined Nullah where, they declared, from the presence -of antelope and other game, that water might be -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-249">[249]</span> -found by digging. Vainly Kidogo urged them forwards -declaring that they would fail to reach the Ziwa -or Pond in a single march; they preferred “crowing” and -scooping up sand till midnight to advancing a few -miles, and some gourdsfull of dirty liquid rewarded -their industry.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 26th of September, I learned -that we had sustained an apparently irreparable loss. -When the caravan was dispersed by bees, a porter took -the opportunity of deserting. This man, who represented -himself as desirous of rejoining at Unyamyembe, -his patron Abdullah bin Musa, the son of the well-known -Indian merchant, had been engaged for four cloths by Said -bin Salim at Ugogi. The Arab with his usual after-wit -found out, when the mishap was announced, that he had -from the first doubted and disliked the man so much -that he had paid down only half the hire. Yet to the -new porter had been committed the most valuable of -our packages, a portmanteau containing the Nautical -Almanac for 1858, the surveying books, and most of -our paper, pens and ink. Said bin Salim, however, was -hardly to be blamed, his continual quarrels with the Baloch -and the sons of Ramji absorbed all his thoughts. -Although the men were unanimous in declaring that -the box never could be recovered, I sent back Bombay -Mabruki and the slave Ambari with particular directions -to search the place where we had been attacked by bees; -it was within three miles, but, as the road was deemed -dangerous, the three worthies preferred passing a few -quiet hours in some snug neighbouring spot.</p> - -<p>At 1.30 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> much saddened by the disaster, we resumed -our road and after stretching over a monotonous -grassy plain variegated with dry thorny jungle, we -arrived about sunset at a waterless kraal where we determined -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-250">[250]</span> -to pass the night. Our supplies of liquid ran -low, the Wanyamwezi porters, who carried our pots and -gourds, had drained them on the way, and without drink -an afternoon-march in this droughthy land destroys all -appetite for supper. Some of the porters presently set -out to fill their gourds with the waters of the Ziwa, -thence distant but a few miles; they returned after a four -hours’ absence with supplies which restored comfort and -good humour to the camp.</p> - -<p>Before settling for the night Kidogo stood up, and to -loud cries of “Maneno! maneno!”—words! words!—equivalent -to our parliamentary hear! hear! delivered -himself of the following <span class="nowrap">speech:—</span></p> - -<p>“Listen, O ye whites! and ye children of Sayyidi -Majidi! and ye sons of Ramji! hearken to my words, -O ye offspring of the night! The journey entereth -Ugogo—Ugogo (the orator threw out his arm westward). -Beware, and again beware (he made violent -gesticulations). You don’t know the Wagogo, they are -——s and ——s! (he stamped.) Speak not to those -Washenzi pagans; enter not into their houses (he -pointed grimly to the ground). Have no dealings with -them, show no cloth, wire, nor beads (speaking with increasing -excitement). Eat not with them, drink not -with them, and make not love to their women (here the -speech became a scream). Kirangozi of the Wanyamwezi, -restrain your sons! Suffer them not to stray into -the villages, to buy salt out of camp, to rob provisions, -to debauch with beer, or to sit by the wells!” And -thus, for nearly half an hour, now violently, then composedly, -he poured forth the words of wisdom, till the -hubbub and chatter of voices which at first had been -silenced by surprise, brought his eloquence to an end.</p> - -<p>We left the jungle-kraal early on the 26th September, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-251">[251]</span> -and after hurrying through thick bush we debouched -upon an open stubbly plain, with herds of gracefully -bounding antelopes and giraffes, who stood for a moment -with long outstretched necks to gaze, and presently -broke away at a rapid, striding, camel’s-trot, their heads -shaking as if they would jerk off, their limbs loose, -and their joints apparently dislocated. About 9 -<span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> we sighted the much-talked of Ziwa. The Arabs, -fond of “showing a green garden,” had described to me -at Inenge a piece of water fit to float a man-of-war. -But Kidogo, when consulted, had replied simply with -the Kisawahili proverb, “Khabari ya mb’hali;” <i>i. e.</i>, -“news from afar;”—<i>a beau mentir qui vient de loin</i>. I -was not therefore surprised to find a shallow pool, which -in India would barely merit the name of tank.</p> - -<p>The Ziwa, which lies 3,100 feet above the sea, occupies -the lowest western level of Marenga Mk’háli, and -is the deepest of the many inundated grounds lying to -its north, north-east, and north-west. The extent -greatly varies: in September, 1857, it was a slaty sheet -of water, with granite projections on one side, and about -300 yards in diameter; the centre only could not be -forded. The bottom and the banks were of retentive clay: -a clear ring, whence the waters had subsided, margined -the pool, and beyond it lay a thick thorny jungle. In -early December, 1858, nothing remained but a surface -of dry, crumbling, and deeply-cracked mud, and, according -to travellers, it had long, in consequence of the -scanty rains, been in that state. Caravans always encamp -at the Ziwa when they find water there. The country -around is full of large game, especially elephants, giraffes, -and zebras, who come to drink at night; a few widgeon -are seen breasting the little waves; “kata” (sand-grouse), -of peculiarly large size and dark plumage, flock there with -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-252">[252]</span> -loud cries; and at eventide the pool is visited by guinea-fowl, -floriken, curlews, peewits, wild pigeons, doves, and -hosts of small birds. When the Ziwa is desiccated, travellers -usually encamp in a thick bush, near a scanty clearing, -about one mile to the north-west, where a few scattered -villages of Wagogo have found dirty white water, hard and -bad, in pits varying from twenty to thirty feet in depth. -Here, as elsewhere in eastern Africa, the only trough is -a small ring sunk in the retentive clayey soil, and surrounded -by a little raised dam of mud and loose stones. -A demand is always made for according permission to -draw water—a venerable custom, dating from the days -of Moses. “Ye shall buy meat of them (the Edomites) -for money, that ye may eat; and ye shall also buy water -of them for money, that ye may drink.”—Deut. ii. 6. -Yet as thirsty, like hungry men, are not to be trifled with, -fatal collisions have resulted from this inhospitable -practice. Some years ago a large caravan of Wanyamwezi -was annihilated in consequence of a quarrel about -water, and lately several deaths occurred in a caravan -led by an Arab merchant, Sallum bin Hamid, because -the wells were visited before the rate of payment was -settled. In several places we were followed upon the -march lest a gourd might be furtively filled. To prevent -exhaustion the people throw euphorbia, asclepias, -and solanaceous plants into the well after a certain hour, -and when not wanted it is bushed over, to keep off -animals, and to check evaporation.</p> - -<p>At the Ziwa the regular system of kuhonga, or blackmail, -so much dreaded by travellers, begins in force. Up -to this point all the chiefs are contented with little presents; -but in Ugogo tribute is taken by force, if necessary. -None can evade payment; the porters, fearing -lest the road be cut off to them in future, would refuse -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-253">[253]</span> -to travel unless each chief is satisfied; and when a -quarrel arises they throw down their packs and run -away. Ugogo, since the closing of the northern line -through the Wahumba and the Wamasai tribes, and the -devastation of the southern regions by the Warori, is the -only open line, and the sultans have presumed upon -their power of stopping the way. There is no regular -tariff of taxes: the sum is fixed by the traveller’s -dignity and outfit, which, by means of his slaves, are as -well known to every sultan as to himself. Properly -speaking, the exaction should be confined to the up-caravans; -from those returning a head or two of cattle, -a few hoes, or some similar trifle, are considered ample. -Such, however, was not the experience of the Expedition. -When first travelling through the country the -“Wazungu” were sometimes mulcted to the extent of -fifty cloths by a single chief, and the Arabs congratulated -them upon having escaped so easily. On their downward -march they pleaded against a second demand as -exorbitant as the first, adducing the custom of caravans, -who are seldom mulcted in more than two cows or a pair -of jembe, or iron hoes; the chiefs, however, replied that -as they never expected to see white faces again, it was -their painful duty to make the most from them.</p> - -<p>The kuhonga, however, is not unjust. In these regions -it forms the customs-dues of the government: the sultan -receives it nominally, but he must distribute the greater -part amongst his family and councillors, his elders and -attendants. It takes the place of the fees expected by -the Balderabba of the Abyssinians, the Mogasa of the -Gallas, the Abban of the Somal, and the Ghafir and -Rafik amongst the Bedouin Arabs, which are virtually -assertions of supremacy upon their own ground. These -people have not the idea which seems prevalent in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-254">[254]</span> -south, namely, that any man has a right to tread God’s -earth gratis as long as he does not interfere with property. -If any hesitation about the kuhonga be made, the -first question put to the objector will be, “Is this your -ground or my ground?” The practice, which is sanctioned -by the customs of civilised nations, is, however, -vitiated in East Africa by the slave-trade: it becomes -the means of intrusion and extortion, of insolence and -violence. The Wagogo are an importing people, and -they see with envy long strings of what they covet -passing through their territory from the interior to the -coast. They are strong enough to plunder any caravan; -but violence they know would injure them by cutting -off communication with the markets for their ivory. -Thus they have settled into a silent compromise, and their -nice sense of self-interest prevents any transgression -beyond the bounds of reason. The sultans receive -their kuhonga, and the subjects entice away slaves from -every caravan, but the enormous interest upon capital -laid out in the trade still leaves a balance in favour of -the merchants. The Arabs, however, declaring that -the evil is on the increase, propose many remedies—such -as large armed caravans, sent by their government, -and heavy dues to be exacted from those Wagogo who -may visit the coast. But they are wise enough to murmur -without taking steps which would inevitably exacerbate -the evil. Should it pass a certain point, a -new road will be opened, or the old road will be reopened, -to restore the balance of interests.</p> - -<p>At the Ziwa we had many troubles. One Marema, -the sultan of a new settlement situated a few hundred -yards to the north-west visited us on the day of our -arrival and reproving us for “sitting in the jungle,” -pointed out the way to his village. On our replying -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-255">[255]</span> -that we were about to traverse Ugogo by another route, -he demanded his Ada or customs, which being newly-imposed -were at once refused by Kidogo. The sultan, -a small man, a “mere thief,”—as a poor noble is graphically -described in these lands,—threatened violence, -whereupon the asses were brought in from grazing and -were ostentatiously loaded before his eyes: when he -changed his tone from threats to beggary. Kidogo -relenting gave him two cloths with a few strings of -beads, preferring this slender disbursement to the -chance of a flight of arrows during the night. His -good judgment was evidenced by the speedy appearance -of the country-people, who brought with them bullocks, -sheep, goats and poultry, water-melons and pumpkins, -honey, butter-milk, whey and curded-milk, an abundance -of holcus and calabash-flour. The latter is made from -the hard dry pulp surrounding the bean-like seed contained -in the ripe gourd: the taste is a not unpleasant -agro-dolce, and the people declare it to be strengthening -food, especially for children; they convert it into porridge -and rude cakes.</p> - -<p>This abundance of provaunt caused a halt of four -days at the Ziwa, and it was spent in disputes between -the great Said and the greater Kidogo. The ostensible -“bone of contention,” was cloth advanced by the former -to the porters—who claimed as their perquisite a bullock -before entering Ugogo—without consulting the -hard-headed slave, who wounded in his tenderest place -of pride, had influence enough to halt the caravan. The -real cause of the dispute was kept from my ears till -some months afterwards, but secrets in this land are as -the Arabs say, “Like musk, murder, and Basrah-garlic,” -they must out, and Bombay, who could never help blurting -forth the tacenda with the dicenda, at last accidentally -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-256">[256]</span> -unveiled the mystery. Said had deferred taking -overcharge of the outfit from Kidogo till our arrival at -the Ziwa, and the latter felt aggrieved by the sudden -yet tardy demand, which deprived him of the dignity -and the profits of stewardship. Sickness became rife -in camp, the effect of the cold night-winds and the -burning suns, and as usual when men are uncomfortable -violent quarrels ensued. Again the officious Wazira, -shook the torch of discord by ordering Khamisi, an exceedingly -drunken and debauched son of Ramji, to -carry certain bundles which usually graced the shoulders -of Goha, one of the Wak’hutu porters. When words -were exhausted Khamisi drew his blade upon Goha and -was tackled by Wazira, whilst Goha brought the muzzle -of my elephant-gun to bear upon Khamisi and was instantly -collared by Bombay. Being thus “in chancery” -both heroes waxed so “exceedingly brave—particular,” -that I was compelled to cool their noble bile with a long -pole. At length it became necessary to make Kidogo raise -his veto against the advance of the caravan. He did not -appear before me till summoned half-a-dozen times: when -he at last vouchsafed so to do I dragged rather than led him -to the mat, where sat in surly pride Said bin Salim, with -the monocular Jemadar, and I ordered the trio to quench -with the waters of explanation the fire of anger. After an -apparently satisfactory arrangement Kidogo started up -and disappeared in the huts of his men; it presently -proved that he had so done for the purpose of proposing -to his party, who were now the sole interpreters, that -to Said bin Salim, an ignoramus in such matters, should -be committed the weighty task of settling the amount -of our blackmail and presents with the greedy chiefs of -Ugogo. Had the mischievous project been carried into -execution, we should have been sufferers to some extent: -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-257">[257]</span> -lack of unanimity however caused the measure to be -thrown out. A march was fixed for the next day, when -the bullock, on this occasion the scape-grace, broke its -tether and plunged into the bush: it was followed by -the Baloch and the porters, whose puny arrows, when -they alighted upon the beast’s stern, only goaded it forwards, -and at least threescore matchlock balls were discharged -before one bullet found its billet in the fugitive. -The camp of course then demanded another holiday to -eat beef.</p> - -<p>The reader must not imagine that I am making a -“great cry,” about a little matter. Four days are not -easily spent when snowed-up in a country inn, and that -is a feeble comparison for the halt in East Africa, where -outfit is leaking away, the valuable travelling-time is -perhaps drawing to a close, health is palpably failing, -and nothing but black faces made blacker still by -ill-humour and loud squabbles, meet the eye and -ear. Insignificant things they afterwards appear viewed -through the medium of memory, these petty annoyances -of travel; yet at the moment they are severely felt, and -they must be resented accordingly. The African traveller’s -fitness for the task of exploration depends more -upon his faculty of chafing under delays and kicking -against the pricks, than upon his power of displaying -the patience of a Griselda or a Job.</p> - -<p>On the 30th September, the last day of our detention -at the Jiwa, appeared a large caravan headed by Said -bin Mohammed of Mbuamaji, with Khalfan bin Khamis, -and several other Coast-Arabs. They brought news -from the sea-board, and,—wondrous good fortune!—the -portmanteau containing books which the porter, profiting -by the confusion caused by the swarm of bees, had deposited -in the long grass, at the place where I had -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-258">[258]</span> -directed the slaves to seek it. Some difficulty was at -first made about restitution: the Arab law of “lakit,” -or things trove, being variable, complicated, and altogether -opposed to our ideas. However, two cloths were -given to the man who had charge of it, and the -Jemadar and Said bin Salim were sent to recover it -by any or all means. The merchants were not offended. -They consented to sell for the sum of thirty-five dollars -a strong and serviceable but an old and obstinate -African ass, which after carrying my companion for -many a mile, at last broke its heart when toiling up -the steeps from whose summit the fair waters of the -Central Lake were first sighted. Moreover, they proposed -that for safety and economy the two caravans should -travel together under a single flag, and thus combine to -form a total of 190 men. These Coast-Arabs travelled -in comfort. The brother of Said Mohammed had married -the daughter of Fundikira, Sultan of Unyanyembe, -and thus the family had a double home, on the coast -and in the interior. All the chiefs of the caravan carried -with them wives and female slaves, negroid beauties, -tall, bulky and “plenty of them,” attired in tulip-hues, -cochineal and gamboge, who walked the whole way, and -who when we passed them displayed an exotic modesty -by drawing their head-cloths over cheeks which we were -little ambitious to profane. They had a multitude of -Fundi, or managing men, and male slaves, who bore their -personal bag and baggage, scrip and scrippage, drugs -and comforts, stores and provisions, and who were always -early at the ground to pitch, to surround with a -“pai,” or dwarf drain, and to bush for privacy, with -green boughs, their neat and light ridge-tents of American -domestics. Their bedding was as heavy as ours, -and even their poultry travelled in wicker cages. This -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-259">[259]</span> -caravan was useful to us in dealing with the Wagogo: -it always managed, however, to precede us on the march, -and to monopolise the best kraals. The Baloch and the -sons of Ramji, when asked on these occasions why -they did not build a palisade, would reply theatrically, -“Our hearts are our fortification!”—methought a -sorry defence.</p> - -<p>By Kidogo’s suggestion I had preferred the middle -line through the hundred miles of dreaded Ugogo: it -was the beaten path, and infested only by four Sultans, -namely: 1. Myandozi of Kifukuru. 2. Magomba of -Kanyenye. 3. Maguru-Mafupi of K’hok’ho; and 4. Kibuya -of Mdaburu. On the 1st October, 1857, we left -the Ziwa late in the morning, and after passing through -the savannahs and the brown jungles of the lower levels, -where giraffe again appeared, the path crested a wave -of ground and debouched upon the table-land of Ugogo. -The aspect was peculiar and unprepossessing. Behind still -towered in sight the Delectable Mountains of Usagara, -mist-crowned and robed in the lightest azure, with -streaks of a deep plum-colour, fronting the hot low land -of Marenga Mk’hali, whose tawny face was wrinkled -with lines of dark jungle. On the north was a tabular -range of rough and rugged hill, above which rose -three distant cones pointed out as the haunts of the -robber Wahumba: at its base was a deep depression, a -tract of brown brush patched with yellow grass, inhabited -only by the elephant, and broken by small outlying -hillocks. Southwards scattered eminences of tree-crowned -rock rose a few yards from the plain which -extended to the front, a clearing of deep red or white -soil, decayed vegetation based upon rocky or sandy -ground, here and there thinly veiled with brown brush -and golden stubbles: its length, about four miles, was -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-260">[260]</span> -studded with square villages, and with the stately but -grotesque calabash. This giant is to the vegetable what -the elephant is to the animal world:—the Persians call -it the “practice-work of nature”—its disproportionate -conical bole rests upon huge legs exposed to view by -the washing away of the soil, and displays excrescences -which in pious India would merit a coat of vermilion. -From the neck extend gigantic gnarled arms, each one -a tree, whose thinnest twig is thick as a man’s finger, -and their weight causes them to droop earthwards, giving -to the outline the shape of a huge dome. In many parts -the unloveliness of its general appearance is varied by -the wrinkles and puckerings which, forming by granulation -upon the oblongs where the bark has been removed -for fibre, give the base the appearance of being chamfered -and fluted; and often a small family of trunks, -four or five in number, springs from the same -root. At that season all were leafless; at other times -they are densely foliaged, and contrasting with their -large timber and with their coarse fleshy leaf, they are -adorned with the delicatest flowers of a pure virgin-white, -which, opening at early dawn, fade and fall before -eventide. The babe-tree issues from the ground about -one foot in diameter: in Ugogo, however, all those observed -were of middle age. The young are probably -grubbed up to prevent their encumbering the ground, -and when decayed enough to be easily felled, they are -converted into firewood. By the side of these dry and -leafless masses of dull dead hue, here and there a mimosa -or a thorn was beginning to bear the buds of promise -green as emeralds. The sun burned like the breath of -a bonfire, a painful glare—the reflection of the terrible -crystal above,—arose from the hot earth; warm Siroccos -raised clouds of dust, and in front the horizon was so -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-261">[261]</span> -distant, that, as the Arabs expressed themselves, “a man -might be seen three marches off.”</p> - -<p>We were received with the drumming and the ringing -of bells attached to the ivories, with the yells and -frantic shouts of two caravans halted at Kifukuru: one -was that of Said Mohammed, who awaited our escort, -the other a return “Safari,” composed of about 1,000 -Wanyamwezi porters, headed by four slaves of Salim bin -Rashid, an Arab merchant settled at Unyanyembe. The -country people also flocked to stare at the phenomenon; -they showed that excitement which some few years ago -might have been witnessed in more polished regions -when a “horrible murder” roused every soul from -Tweed banks to Land’s End; when, to gratify a morbid -destructiveness, artists sketched, literati described, tourists -visited, and curio-hunters met to bid for the -rope and the murderer’s whiskers. Yet I judged favourably -of the Wagogo by their curiosity, which stood out in -strong relief against the apathy and the uncommunicativeness -of the races lately visited. Such inquisitiveness -is amongst barbarians generally a proof of improvability,—of -power to progress. One man who had visited -Zanzibar could actually speak a few words of Hindostani, -and in Ugogo, and there only, I was questioned by the -chiefs concerning Uzungu “White-land,” the mysterious -end of the world in which beads are found under ground, -and where the women weave such cottons. From the -day of our entering to that of our leaving the country, -every settlement turned out its swarm of gazers, men -and women, boys and girls, some of whom would follow -us for miles with explosions of Hi!—i!—i! screams of -laughter and cries of excitement, at a long high trot,—most -ungraceful of motion!—and with a scantiness of -toilette which displayed truly unseemly spectacles. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-262">[262]</span> -matrons, especially the aged matrons, realised Madame -Pernelle’s description of an unpleasant <span class="nowrap">female—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Un peu trop forte en gueule et fort impertinente;”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">and of their sex the old men were ever the most pertinacious -and intrusive, the most surly and quarrelsome. -Vainly the escort attempted to arrest the course of this -moving multitude of semi-nude barbarity. I afterwards -learned that the two half-caste Arabs who had passed -us at Muhama, Khalfan and Id, the sons of Muallim -Salim of Zanzibar, had, whilst preceding us, spread -through Ugogo malevolent reports concerning the Wazungu. -They had one eye each and four arms; they -were full of “knowledge,” which in these lands means -magic; they caused rain to fall in advance and left -droughts in their rear; they cooked water melons and -threw away the seeds, thereby generating small-pox; -they heated and hardened milk, thus breeding a murrain -amongst cattle; and their wire, cloth, and beads caused -a variety of misfortunes; they were kings of the sea, and -therefore white-skinned and straight-haired—a standing -mystery to these curly-pated people—as are all men -who live in salt water; and next year they would return -and seize the country. Suspicion of our intentions -touching “territorial aggrandisement” was a fixed idea: -everywhere the value attached by barbarians to their -homes is in inverse ratio to the real worth of the article. -Hence mountaineers are proverbially patriotic. Thus -the lean Bedouins of Arabia and the lank Somal, though -they own that they are starving, never sight a stranger -without suspecting that he is spying out the wealth of -the land. “What will happen to us?” asked the -Wagogo; “we never yet saw this manner of man!” -But the tribe cannot now forfeit intercourse with the -coast: they annoyed us to the utmost, they made the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-263">[263]</span> -use of their wells a daily source of trouble, they charged -us double prices, and when they brought us provisions -for sale, they insisted upon receiving the price of even -the rejected articles; yet they did not proceed to open -outrage. Our timid Arab, the Baloch, the sons of -Ramji, and the porters humoured them in every whim. -Kidogo would not allow observations to be taken with -a bright sextant in presence of the mobility. He declined -to clear the space before the tent, as the excited -starers, some of whom had come from considerable distances, -were apt under disappointment to wax violent; -and though he once or twice closed the tent-flaps, -he would not remove the lines of men, women, and -children, who stretched themselves for the greater convenience -of peeping and peering, lengthways upon the -ground. Whenever a Mnyamwezi porter interfered, he -was arrogantly told to begone, and he slunk away, praying -us to remember that these men are “Wagogo.” -Caravan after caravan had thus taught them to become -bullies, whereas a little manliness would soon have -reduced them to their proper level. They are neither -brave nor well-armed, and their prestige rests solely -upon their feat in destroying about one generation ago -a caravan of Wanyamwezi—an event embalmed in a -hundred songs and traditions. They seemed to take a -fancy to the Baloch, who received from the fair sex -many a little souvenir in the shape of a kid or a water-melon. -Whenever the Goanese Valentine was sent to a -village he was politely and hospitably welcomed, and -seated upon a three-legged stool by the headman; and -generally the people agreed in finding fault with their -principal Sultans, declaring that they unwisely made the -country hateful to “Wakonongo,” or travellers. Fortunately -for the Expedition several scions of the race saw -the light safely during our transit of Ugogo: had an -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-264">[264]</span> -accident occurred to a few babies or calves, our return -through the country would have been difficult and dangerous. -All received the name of “Muzungu,” and -thus there must now be a small colony of black “white -men” in this part of the African interior.</p> - -<p>At Kifukuru I was delayed a day whilst settling the -blackmail of its Sultan Miyandozi. Said bin Salim, the -Jemadar, and Kidogo called upon him in the morning and -were received in the gateway of a neat “Tembe,” the -great man disdaining to appear on so trivial an occasion. -This Sultan is the least powerful of the four; he is -plundered by the Warori tribes living to the south-west, -and by his western neighbour, Magomba; his subjects -are poorly clad, and are little ornamented compared with -those occupying the central regions, where they have the -power to detain travellers and to charge them exorbitantly -for grain and water. Yet Miyandozi demanded -four white and six blue shukkahs; besides which I was -compelled to purchase for him from the sons of Ramji, -who of course charged treble its value, a “Sohari” or -handsome silk and cotton loin-cloth. In return he sent—it -appeared to be in irony—one kayla, or four small measures -of grain. The slaves of Salim bin Rashid obliged -me with a few pounds of rice, for which I gave them a -return in gunpowder, and they undertook to convey to -Zanzibar a package of reports, indents, and letters, -which was punctually delivered. An ugly accident had -nearly happened that night; the Wanyamwezi porters -managed to fire the grass round a calabash tree, against -which they had stretched their loads, and a powder-magazine—fortunately -fire-proof—was blackened and charred -by the flames. A traveller cannot be too careful about his -ammunition in these lands. I have seen a slave smoking -a water pipe, tied for convenience of carriage to a leaky -keg of powder; and another in the caravan of Salim bin -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-265">[265]</span> -Sayf of Dut’humi, resting the muzzle of his musket -against a barrel of ammunition, fired it to try its strength, -and blew himself up with several of his comrades.</p> - -<p>On the 3rd October we quitted Kifukuru in the -afternoon, and having marched nearly six hours we -encamped in one of the strips of waterless brown -jungles which throughout Ugogo divide the cultivated -districts from one another, and occupy about half the -superficies of the land. The low grounds, inundated -during the rains, were deeply cracked, and my weak ass, -led by the purblind Shahdad, fell with violence upon my -knee, leaving a mixture of pain and numbness which -lasted for some months. On the next day we resumed -our journey betimes through a thick rugged jungle and -over a rolling grassy plain, which extended to the -frontier of Kanyenye, where Sultan Magomba rules. -The 5th October saw us in the centre of Kanyenye, -a clearing about ten miles in diameter. The surface is -a red tamped clayey soil, dotted with small villages, huge -calabashes, and stunted mimosas; water is found in -wells or rather pits sunk from ten to twelve feet in the -lower lands, or in the sandy beds of the several Fiumaras. -Flocks and herds abound, and the country is as cultivated -and populous as the saline nitrous earth, and the scarceness -of the potable element, which often tarnishes silver -like sulphur-fumes, permits.</p> - -<p>At Kanyenye I was delayed four days to settle blackmail -with Magomba, the most powerful of the Wagogo -chiefs. He was on this, as on a subsequent occasion, -engaged in settling a cause arising from Uchawi or -Black Magic; yet all agree that in Ugogo, where, to -quote the “Royal Martyr’s” words,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Plunder and murder are the kingdom’s laws,”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">there is perhaps less of wizardhood and witchcraft, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-266">[266]</span> -and consequently less of its normal consequences, fiscs -and massacres, than in any other region between the -Atlantic and the Indian Ocean. “Arrow-heads” employed -every art of wild diplomacy to relieve me of as -much cloth as possible. I received, when encamped at -the Ziwa, a polite message declaring his desire to see -white men; but—“the favour of the winds produces -dust”—I was obliged to acknowledge the compliment -with two cottons. On arrival at his head-quarters I was -waited upon by an oily cabinet of Wazirs and elders, -who would not depart without their “respects”—four -cottons. The next demand was made by his favourite -wife, a peculiarly hideous old princess with more -wrinkles than hairs, with no hair black and no tooth -white, and attended by ladies in waiting as unprepossessing -as herself: she was not to be dismissed without -a fee of six cottons. At last, accompanied by a mob -of courtiers, who crowded in like an African House -of Commons, appeared in person the magnifico. He -was the only Sultan that ever entered my tent in Ugogo—pride -and a propensity for strong drink prevented -other visits. He was much too great a man to call -upon the Arab merchants, but in our case curiosity -had mastered state considerations. Magomba was a -black and wrinkled elder, drivelling and decrepid, with -a half-bald head from whose back and sides depended -a few straggling corkscrews of iron gray: he wore a -coat of castor-oil and a “Barsati” loin-cloth, which -grease and use had changed from blue to black. A few -bead strings decorated his neck, large flexible anklets -of brass wire adorned his legs, solid brass rings, single -and in coils, which had distended his earlobes almost to -splitting, were tied by a string over his cranium, -and his horny soles were defended by single-soled -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-267">[267]</span> -sandals, old, dirty, and tattered. He chewed his quid -and he expectorated without mercy; he asked many a -silly question, yet he had ever an eye to the main -chance. He demanded and received five “cloths with -names,” which I was again compelled to purchase at an -exorbitant price from the Baloch and slaves, one coil of -brass wire, four blue cottons, and ten “domestics;” the -total amounted to fifty shukkahs, here worth at least -fifty dollars, and exhausting nearly two-thirds of a -porter’s load. His return present was the leanest of -calves; when it was driven into camp with much parade, -his son, who had long been looking out for a fit opportunity, -put in a claim for three cottons.</p> - -<p>Magomba before our departure exacted from Kidogo -an oath that his Wazungu would not smite the land -with drought or with fatal disease, declaring that all -we had was in his hands. He boasted, and with truth, -of his generosity. It was indeed my firm conviction -from first to last, that in case of attack or surprise I -had not a soul except my companion to stand by me: -all those who accompanied us could, and consequently -would, have saved their lives;—<i>we</i> must have perished. -We should have been as safe with six as with sixty -guns; but I would by no means apply to these regions -Mr. Galton’s opinion, “that the last fatal expedition -of Mungo Park is full of warning to travellers who -propose exploring with a large body of men.” For -though sixty guns do not suffice to prevent attack in -Ugogo, 600 stout fellows armed with the “hot-mouthed -weapon” might march through the length and breadth -of Central Africa.</p> - -<p>During our four days’ detention at Kanyenye, I was -compelled to waste string after string of beads in persuading -the people to water the porters and asses. Yet their -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-268">[268]</span> -style of proceeding proved that it was greed of gain, -not scarcity of the element, which was uppermost in -their minds; they would agree to supply us with an -unlimited quantity, and then would suddenly gather -round the well and push away the Wanyamwezi, bidding -them go and fetch more beads. All the caravan -took the opportunity of loading itself with salt. Whilst -the halt lasted, my companion brought in a fine-flavoured -pallah and other antelopes, with floriken, guinea-fowl, and -partridge. Neither he nor I, however, had strength -enough, nor had we time, to attack the herds of elephants -that roam over the valley whose deep purple -line separates the table-land of Ugogo from the blue -hills of the Wahumba to the north. And here, perhaps, -a few words concerning the prospects of sportsmen -in this part of Africa, may save future travellers from -the mistake into which I fell. I expected great things, -and returned without realising a single hope. This -portion of the peninsula is a remarkable contrast to -the line traversed by Dr. Livingstone, where the animals -standing within bow-shot were so numerous and fearless, -that the burden of provisions was often unnecessary. -In the more populous parts game has melted away -before the woodman’s axe and the hunters’ arrows: -even where large tracks of jungle abound with water -and forage, the note of a bird rarely strikes the ear, and -during a long day’s march not a single large animal will -be seen from the beaten track. It is true that in -some places, there is</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent14">“—— enough<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Of beastes that be chaseable.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">The park lands of Dut’humi, the jungles and forests -of Ugogi and Mgunda Mk’hali, the barrens of Usukuma, -and the tangled thickets of Ujiji, are full of noble -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-269">[269]</span> -game,—lions and leopards, elephants and rhinoceroses, -wild cattle, giraffes, gnus, zebras, quaggas, and ostriches. -But these are dangerous regions where the sportsman -often cannot linger for a day. Setting aside the minor -considerations of miasma and malaria,—the real or -fancied perils of the place, and the want of food, or the -difficulty of procuring water, would infallibly cause the -porters to desert. Here are no Cape-waggons, at once -house, store, and transport; no “Ships of the Desert,” -never known to run away; in fact there is no vehicle -but man, and he is so impatient and headstrong, so suspicious -and timorous, that he must be humoured in every -whim. As sportsmen know, it is difficult to combine surveying -operations and collection of specimens with a pursuit -which requires all a man’s time; in these countries, -moreover, no merely hunting-expedition would pay, -owing to the extraordinary expense of provisions and -carriage. Thus Venator will be reduced to use his -“shooting-iron” on halting days, and at the several -periods of his journey, and his only consolation will be -the prospect of wreaking vengeance upon the hippopotamus -and the crocodile of the coast, if his return there -be entered in the book of Time. Finally, East Africa -wants the vast variety of animals, especially the beautiful -antelopes, which enrich the lists of the Cape Fauna. -The tale of those observed in short: the horns of the -oryx were seen, the hartebeest and steinbok, the saltiana -and the pallah,—the latter affording excellent -venison,—were shot. The country generally produces -the “Suiya,” a little antelope with reddish coat and -diminutive horns, about the size of an English hare, -the swangura, or sungula, an animal somewhat larger -than the saltiana, and of which, according to the people, -the hind only has horns; and at K’hutu my companion -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-270">[270]</span> -saw a double-horned antelope which he thought -resembled the “Chouka-singa,” (<i>Tetraceros Quadricornis</i>) -of Nepaul. The species of birds, also, are scarcely -more numerous than the beasts; the feathered tribe -is characterised by sombreness of plumage, and their -song is noisy but not harmonious, unpleasant, perhaps -because strange, to the European ear.</p> - -<p>On the 8th October appeared at Kanyenye a large down-caravan -headed by Abdullah bin Nasib, a Msawahili of -Zanzibar, whose African name is Kisesa. This good -man began with the usual token of hospitality, the gift -of a goat, and some measures of the fine Unyanyembe rice, -of which return-parties carry an ample store: he called -upon me at once with several companions,—one of them -surprised me not a little by an English “good morning,”—and -he kindly volunteered to halt a day whilst we wrote -reports and letters, life-certificates, and duplicate-indents -upon Zanzibar for extra supplies of drugs and -medical comforts, cloth and beads. The asses were now -reduced to five, and as Magomba refused to part with -any of his few animals, at any price,—on the coast -I had been assured that asses were as numerous as dogs -in Ugogo—Abdullah gave me one of his riding-animals, -and would take nothing for it except a little -medicine, and a paper acknowledging his civility. -Several of the slaves and porters had been persuaded -by the Wagogo to desert, and Abdullah busied -himself to recover them. One man, who had suddenly -deposited his pack upon the path and had disappeared -in the jungle during the noonday halt, was -pointed out by a woman to Kidogo, and was found -lurking in a neighbouring village, where the people -refused to give him up. Abdullah sent for Magomba’s -four chief “ministers,” and persuaded them to render -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-271">[271]</span> -active aid: they seized the fellow, took from him his -wire and his nine cloths, appropriated four, and left -me five wherewith to engage another porter. The deserter -was of course dismissed, but the severity of the -treatment did not prevent three desertions on the next -day.</p> - -<p>The 10th October ushered in an ugly march. Emerging -betimes from the glaring white and red plains of -Kanyenye, dotted with fields, villages, and calabashes, -we unloaded in a thin jungle of mimosa and grass-bunches, -near sundry pools, then almost dried up, but -still surrounded by a straggling growth of chamærops -and verdurous thorns. The bush gave every opportunity -to the porters, who had dispersed in the halt, to -desert with impunity. In our hurried morning tramp, -want of carriage had caused considerable confusion, and -at 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, when again the word “load” was given for -a tirikeza, everything seemed to go wrong. Said bin -Salim and the Jemadar hurried forwards, leaving me to -manage the departure with Kidogo, who, whilst my -companion lay under a calabash almost unable to move, -substituted for his strong Mnyamwezi ass a wretched -animal unable to bear the lightest load. The Baloch -Belok was asked to carry our only gourd full of water; -he pleaded sickness as an excuse. And, when the rear -of the caravan was about to march, Kidogo, who alone -knew the way, hastened on so fast that he left us to -wander through a labyrinth of elephants’ tracks, hedged -in by thorns and brambly trees, which did considerable -damage to clothes and cutis.</p> - -<p>Having at length found the way, we advanced over a -broad, open, and grassy plain, striped with southwards-trending -sandy water-courses of easy ascent and descent, -and lined with a green aromatic vegetation, in which the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-272">[272]</span> -tall palm suggested a resemblance to the valley-plains of -the Usagara Mountains. As night fell upon us like a -pall, we entered the broken red ground that limits the flat -westwards, and, ascending a dark ridge of broken, stony, -ground, and a dense thorn-bush, we found ourselves upon -a higher level. The asses stumbled, the men grumbled, -and the want of water severely tried the general -temper.</p> - -<p>From this cold jungle—the thermometer showed a -minimum of 54° F.—we emerged at dawn on the -11th October, and after three hours’ driving through -a dense bush of various thorns, with calabashes reddened -by the intense heat, and tripping upon the narrow -broken path that ran over rolling ground, we found the -porters halted at some pits full of sweet clear water. -Here the caravan preserved a remarkable dead silence. -I inquired the cause. The Coast-Arabs who accompanied -us were trying an experiment, which, had it -failed, would have caused trouble, expense, and waste of -time; they were attempting to pass without blackmail -the little clearing of Usek’he, which lay to the south of -the desert-road, and they knew that its Sultan, Ganza -Mikono, usually posted a party upon the low masses of -bristling hill hard by, to prevent caravans evading his -dues. As no provisions were procurable in the jungle, -it was judged better to proceed, and the sun was in the -zenith before we reached the district of K’hok’ho. We -halted under a spreading tree, near the head-quarter -village of its villanous Sultan, in an open plain of -millet and panicum-stubbles. Presently Kidogo, disliking -the appearance of things—the men, rushing with -yells of excitement from their villages, were forming a -dense ring around us; the even more unmanageable old -women stared like <i>sages femmes</i>, and already a Mnyamwezi -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-273">[273]</span> -porter had been beaten at the well—stirred us up -and led the way to an open jungle about a mile distant. -There we were safe; no assailant would place himself -upon the plain, the Coast-Arabs were close at hand, and -in the bush we should have been more than a match -for the Wagogo.</p> - -<p>The Baloch, fatigued by the tedious marches of the -last two days, had surlily refused their escort to our -luggage, as well as to ourselves. When the camp was -pitched, I ordered a goat to be killed; and, serving out -rations to the sons of Ramji and the porters, I gave -them none, a cruel punishment to men whose souls -centered in their ingesta. The earlier part of the -evening was spent by them in enumerating their -grievances—they were careful to speak in four dialects, -so that all around might understand them, in discussing -their plans of desertion, and in silencing the contradiction -of their commander, the monocular Jemadar, -who, having forsworn opium, now headed the party in -opposition to the mutineers. They complained that they -were faint for want of meat—the fellows were driving a -bullock and half a dozen goats, which they had purchased -with cloth, certainly not their own. I had, they grumbled, -given them no ghee or honey, consequently they were -obliged to “eat dry”—they knew this to be false, as they -had received both at Kanyenye. We had made them -march ten “Cos” in our eagerness to obtain milk—they -were the first to propose reaching a place where provisions -were procurable. The unmanageables, Khudabakhsh, -Shahdad, and Belok, proposed an immediate departure, -but a small majority carried the day in favour of desertion -next morning. Kidogo and the sons of Ramji -ridiculed, as was their wont, the silly boasters with, “Of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-274">[274]</span> -a truth, brethren! the coast is far off, and ye are hungry -men!” On the ensuing day, when a night’s reflection -had cooled down their noble bile, they swallowed their -words like buttered parsnips. I heard no more of their -plans, and in their demeanour they became cringing as -before.</p> - -<p>The transit of the K’hok’ho clearing, which is also -called the Nyika, or wilderness, is considered the nucleus -of travellers’ troubles in Ugogo. The difficulty is caused -by its Sultan, M’ana Miaha, popularly known as Maguru -Mafupi, or Short-shanks. This petty tyrant, the most -powerful, however, of the Wagogo chiefs, is a toothache -to strangers, who complain that he cannot even -plunder <i>à l’aimable</i>. He was described to me as a short -elderly man, nearly bald, chocolate-coloured, and remarkable -for the duck-like conformation which gave origin to -his nickname. His dress was an Arab check round his -loins, and another thrown over his shoulders. He becomes -man, idiot, and beast with clockwork-regularity -every day; when not disguised in liquor he is surly -and unreasonable, and when made merry by his cups he -refuses to do business. He is in the habit of detaining -Wanyamwezi caravans to hoe his fields, and he often -applies them to a <i>corvée</i> of five or six days during the -spring-time, before he will consent to receive his blackmail.</p> - -<p>We were delayed five days at K’hok’ho to lay in provisions -for four marches, and by the usual African pretexts, -various and peculiar. On the afternoon of arrival -it would have been held indecent haste to trouble His -Highness. On the first morning His Highness’s spouse -was unwell, and during the day he was “sitting upon -Pombe,” in other words, drinking beer. On the second -he received, somewhat scurvily, a deputation headed by -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-275">[275]</span> -Said bin Salim, the Coast-Arab merchants, and the -Jemadar. Two Wazagira, or chief-councillors, did the -palaver, which was conducted, for dignity, outside the -royal hovel. He declared that the two caravans must compound -separately, and that in my case he would be satisfied -with nothing under six porters’ loads. As about one-twelfth -of his demand was offered to him, he dismissed -them with ignominy, affirming that he held me equal to -the Sayyid of Zanzibar, and accordingly that he should -demand half the outfit. The third day was spent by the -Coast-Arabs in haggling with the courtiers before His -Highness, who maintained a solemn silence, certainly the -easiest plan; and the present was paraded, as is customary -on such occasions, in separate heaps, each intended -for a particular person, but Her Highness, justly offended -by the flimsiness of a bit of chintz, seized a huge wooden -ladle and hooted and hunted the offenders out of doors. -After high words the Arabs returned, and informed me -that things were looking desperate. I promised assistance -in case of violence being offered to them,—a civility which -they acknowledged by sending a shoulder of beef. The -fourth day was one of dignified idleness. We received -a message that the court was again sitting upon -Pombe, and we too well understood that His Highness, -with his spouse and cabinet, were drunk as drunk could -be. On the morning of the fifth day, a similar delaying -process was attempted; but as the testy Kidogo, who -had taken the place of the tame Said, declared that -the morrow should see us march in the afternoon, the -present was accepted, and the two or three musket shots -usual on such occasions sounded the joyful tidings that -we were at liberty to proceed. The unconscionable extortioner -had received one coil of brass wire, four -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-276">[276]</span> -“cloths with names,” eight domestics, eight blue cottons, -and thirty strings of coral beads. Not contented with -this, he demanded two Arab checks, and these failing, a -double quantity of beads, and another domestic. I -compromised the affair with six feet of crimson broadcloth, -an article which I had not produced, as the Coast-Arabs, -who owned none, declared that such an offering -would cause difficulties in their case. But as they -charged me double and treble prices for the expensive -cloths which the Sultan required, and which, as they -had been omitted in our outfit, it was necessary to purchase -from them, I at length thought myself justified in -economising by the only means in my power. The -fiery-tempered Coast-Arabs left K’hok’ho with rage in -their hearts and curses under their tongues. These -men usually think outside their heads, but they know -that in Ugogo the merest pretext—the loosing a hot -word, touching a woman, offending a boy, or taking in -vain the name of the Sultan—infallibly leads to being -mulcted in cloth.</p> - -<p>I was delighted to escape from the foul strip of crowded -jungle in which we had halted. A down-caravan of -Wanyamwezi had added its quotum of discomfort to -the place. Throughout the fiery day we were stung by -the Tzetze, and annoyed by swarms of bees and pertinacious -gadflies. On one occasion an army of large -poisonous siyafu, or black pismire, drove us out of the -tent by the wounds which it inflicted between the -fingers and on other tender parts of the body, before a -kettle of boiling water persuaded them to abandon us. -These ant-fiends made the thin-skinned asses mad with -torture. The nights were cold and raw, and when we -awoke in the morning we found some valuable article -rendered unserviceable by the termites. K’hok’ho was -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-277">[277]</span> -an ill-omened spot. There my ass “Seringe,” sole survoice -of the riding animals brought from Zanzibar, -was so torn by a hyæna that I was compelled to leave -it behind. I was afterwards informed that it had -soon died of its wounds. The next mishap was the desertion -of the fifteen Wanyamwezi porters who had been -hired and paid at Ugogi. These men had slept in the -same kraal with the somnolent sons of Ramji, and -had stealthily disappeared during the night. As usual, -though they carried off their own, they had left our loads -behind, that they might reach their homes with greater -speed. They would choose a jungle road, to avoid the -danger of slavery, and living the while upon roots and -edible grasses, would traverse the desert separating them -from their country in three or four days. This desertion -of fifteen men first suggested to me that my weary -efforts and wearing anxiety about carriage were to a -certain extent self-inflictions. Expecting to see half the -outfit left upon the ground, I was surprised by the readiness -with which it disappeared. The men seemed to -behave best whenever things were palpably at the worst; -besides which, as easily as the baggage of 50 porters -was distributed amongst 100, so easily were the loads -of 100 men placed upon the shoulders of 50. Indeed, the -original Wanyamwezi gang, who claimed by right extra -pay for carrying extra weight, though fiercely opposed to -lifting up an empty gourd gratis, were ever docile when -a heavier pack brought with it an increase of cloth and -beads.</p> - -<p>However, the march on the 17th October had its trifling -hardships. My companion rode forward on the ass lately -given to us by Abdullah bin Nasib, whilst I, remaining -behind and finding that no carriage could be procured for -two bags of clothes and shoes, placed them upon my animal -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-278">[278]</span> -the Mnyamwezi bought at Inenge, inasmuch as it appeared -somewhat stronger than the half-dozen wretched -brutes that flung themselves upon the ground apparently -too fagged to move. I had, however, overrated its -powers: it soon became evident that I must walk, or that -the valuable cargo must be left behind. Trembling -with weakness, I set out to traverse the length of the -Mdáburu Jungle. The memory of that march is not -pleasant: the burning sun and the fiery reflected heat -arising from the parched ground—here a rough, thorny, -and waterless jungle, where the jasmine flowered and the -frankincense was used for fuel; there a grassy plain of -black and sun-cracked earth—compelled me to lie down -every half-hour. The watergourds were soon drained -by my attendant Baloch; and the sons of Ramji, -who, after reaching the resting-place, had returned with -ample stores for their comrades, hid their vessels on my -approach. Sarmalla, a donkey-driver, the model of a -surly negro, whose crumpled brow, tightened eyes and -thick lips which shot-out on the least occasion of excitement, -showed what was going on within his head, openly -refused me the use of his gourd, and—thirst is even -less to be trifled with than hunger—found ample reason -to repent himself of the proceeding. Near the end -of the jungle I came upon a party of the Baloch, who, -having seized upon a porter belonging to a large caravan -of Wanyamwezi that had passed us on that march, -were persuading him, half by promises and half by -threats, to carry their sleeping mats and their empty -gourds. The strict and positive orders as regards enticing -away deserters which I had issued at Inenge, were -looked upon by them, in their all-engrossing egotism, as a -mere string of empty words. I could do nothing beyond -threatening to report their conduct to their master, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-279">[279]</span> -dismissing the man, who obviously stood in fear of death, -with his tobacco and hoes duly counted back to him. Towards -the end of that long march I saw with pleasure the -kindly face of Seedy Bombay, who was returning to me -in hot haste, leading an ass, and carrying a few scones -and hard-boiled eggs. Mounting, I resumed my way, -and presently arrived at the confines of Mdáburu, -where, under a huge calabash, stood our tent, amidst a -kraal of grass boothies, surrounded by a heaped-up ridge -of thorns.</p> - -<p>Mdáburu is the first important district in the land -of Uyanzi, which, beginning from Western K’hok’ho, extends -as far as Tura, the eastern frontier of Unyamwezi-land. -It is a fertile depression of brick-red earth, -bisected by a broad, deep, and sandy Fiumara, which, trending -southwards, supplies from five pits water in plenty -even during the driest season. It is belted on all sides -by a dense jungle, over whose dark brown line appeared -the summits of low blue cones, and beyond them long -streaks of azure ridge, beautified by distance into the semblance -of a sea. We were delayed two days at this, the -fourth and westernmost district of Ugogo. It was necessary -to lay in a week’s provision for the party—ever -a tedious task in these regions, but more especially in the -dead of winter—moreover, the Sultan Kibuya expected -the settlement of his blackmail. From this man we experienced -less than the usual incivility: by birth a Mkimbu -foreigner, and fearing at that time wars and rumours -of wars on the part of his villanous neighbour, Maguru -Mafupi, he contented himself with a present which may -be estimated at nineteen cloths, whereas the others had -murmured at forty and fifty. However, he abated nothing -of his country’s pretentious pride. A black, elderly man, -dressed in a grimy cloth, without other ornament but -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-280">[280]</span> -a broad ivory bracelet covering several inches of his -right wrist, he at first refused to receive the deputation -because his “ministers” were absent; and during the -discourse about the amount of blackmail, he sat preserving -an apathetic silence, outside his dirty lodging in the -huge kraal which forms his capital. The demand concluded -with a fine silk-cotton cloth, on the part of his -wife; and when “ma femme” appears on such occasions -in these regions, as in others further west, it is a sure -sign that the stranger is to be taken in. As usual -with the East African chiefs, Kibuya was anxious to -detain me, not only in order that his people might profitably -dispose of their surplus stores, but also because -the presence of so many guns would go far to modify -the plans of his enemies. His attempts at delay, however, -were skilfully out-manœuvred by Said bin Salim, -who broke through all difficulties with the hardihood -of fear. The little man’s vain terrors made him put the -ragged kraal which surrounded us into a condition of -defence, and every night he might be seen stalking like -a troubled spirit amongst the forms of sleeping men.</p> - -<p>At Mdáburu I hired two porters from the caravan -that accompanied us; and Said bin Salim began somewhat -tardily to take the usual precautions against desertion. -He was ordered, before the disappearance of the porters -that levanted at K’hok’ho, to pack their hire in our loads, -and every evening to chain up the luggage heaped in -front of our tent. The accident caused by his neglect -rendered him now quasi-obedient. Moreover, two or -three Baloch were told off to precede the line, and as -many to bring up the rear. The porters, as I have -said, hold it a point of honour not to steal their packs; -but if allowed to straggle forwards, or to loiter behind, -they will readily attempt the recovery of their goods by -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-281">[281]</span> -opening their burdens, which they afterwards abandon -upon the road. The Coast-Arabs, in return for some -small shot, which is here highly prized, assisted me by -carrying some surplus luggage. Amongst other articles, -two kegs of gunpowder were committed to them: both -were punctually returned at Unyanyembe, where gunpowder -sells at two cloths, or half a Frasilah (17·5 lbs.) -of ivory per lb; but the bungs had been stove in, and a -quarter of the contents had evaporated. The evening -of the second day’s halt closed on us before the -rations for the caravan were collected, and seventeen -shukkah, with about a hundred strings of beads, barely -produced a sufficiency of grain.</p> - -<p>From the Red Vale of Mdáburu three main lines traverse -the desert between Ugogo and Unyamwezi. -The northernmost, called Njia T’humbi, leads in a west-north-westerly -direction to Usukuma. Upon this track -are two sultans and several villages. The central “Karangásá,” -or “Mdáburu,” is that which will be described -in the following pages. The southernmost, termed -Uyánzi, sets out from K’hok’ho, and passes through the -settlements known by the name of Jiwe lá Singá. It -is avoided by the porters, dreading to incur the wrath -of Sultan Kibuyá, who would resent their omitting -to visit his settlement, M’dáburu.</p> - -<p>These three routes pass through the heart of the -great desert and elephant-ground “Mgunda Mk’hali”—explained -by the Arabs to mean in Kinyamwezi, the Fiery -“Shamba” or Field. Like Marenga Mk’hali, it is a desert, -because it contains no running water nor wells, except -after rain. The name is still infamous, but its ill-fame -rests rather upon tradition than actuality; in fact, its -dimensions are rapidly shrinking before the torch and -axe. About fifteen years ago it contained twelve long -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-282">[282]</span> -stages, and several tirikeza; now it is spanned in eight -marches. The wildest part is the first half from -Mdáburu to Jiwe lá Mkoa, and even here, it is reported, -villages of Wakimbu are rising rapidly on the north and -south of the road. The traveller, though invariably -threatened with drought and the death of cattle, will -undergo little hardship beyond the fatigue of the first -three forced marches through the “Fiery Field;” in fact, -he will be agreeably surprised by its contrast with the -desert of Marenga Mk’hali.</p> - -<p>From east to west the diagonal breadth of Mgunda -Mk’hali is 140 miles. The general aspect is a dull uniform -bush, emerald-coloured during the rains, and in the -heats a network of dry and broom-like twigs. Except -upon the banks of nullahs—“rivers” that are not rivers—the -trees, as in Ugogo, wanting nutriment, never afford -timber, and even the calabash appears stunted. The -trackless waste of scrub, called the “bush” in Southern -Africa, is found in places alternating with thin gum-forest; -the change may be accounted for by the different -depths of water below the level of the ground. It is a -hardy vegetation of mimosas and gums mixed with evergreen -succulent plants, cactaceæ, aloes, and euphorbias: -the grass, sometimes tufty, at other times equally spread, -is hard and stiff; when green it feeds cattle, and when dry -it is burned in places by passing caravans to promote the -growth of another crop.</p> - -<p>The groundwork of Mgunda Mk’hali is a detritus of -yellowish quartz, in places white with powdered felspar, -and, where vegetation decays, brown-black with humus. -Water-worn pebbles are sprinkled over the earth, and -the vicinity of Fiumaras abounds in a coarse and modern -sandstone-conglomerate. Upon the rolling surface, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-283">[283]</span> -towering high above the tallest trees, are based the -huge granitic and syenitic outcrops before alluded to. -The contrast between the masses and the dwarf rises -which support them at once attracts the eye. Here and -there the long waves that diversify the land appear in -the far distance like blue lines bounding the nearer -superficies of brown or green. Throughout this rolling -table-land the watershed is to the south. In rare places -the rains stagnate in shallow pools, which become -systems of mud-cakes during the drought. At this -season water is often unprocurable in the Fiumaras, -causing unaccustomed hardships to caravans, and death -to those beasts which, like the elephant and the buffalo, -cannot long exist without drinking.</p> - -<p>On the 20th October we began the transit of the -“Fiery Field,” whose long broad line of brown jungle, -painted blue by the intervening air, had, since leaving -K’hok’ho, formed our western horizon. The waste -here appeared in its most horrid phase. The narrow -goat-path serpentined in and out of a growth of -poisonous thorny jungle, with thin, hard grass-straw, -growing on a glaring white and rolling ground; the -view was limited by bush and brake, as in the alluvial -valleys of the maritime region, and in weary sameness -the spectacle surpassed everything that we had endured -in Marenga Mk’hali. We halted through the heat -of the day at some water-pits in a broken course; and -resuming our tedious march early in the afternoon, we -arrived about sunset at the bed of a shallow nullah, -where the pure element was found in sand-holes about -five feet deep.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd day we reached the large Mabunguru -Fiumara, a deep and tortuous gash of fine yellow quartzoze -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-284">[284]</span> -sand and sunburnt blocks of syenite: at times it -must form an impassable torrent, even at this season of -severe drought it afforded long pools of infiltrated rain-water, -green with weeds and abounding with shell-fish, -and with the usual description of Silurus. In the -earlier morning the path passed through a forest already -beautified by the sprouting of tender green leaves and -by the blooming of flowers, amongst which was a large -and strongly perfumed species of jasmine, whilst young -grass sprouted from the fire-blackened remnants of the -last year’s crop. Far upon the southern horizon rose -distant hills and lines, blue, as if composed of solidified -air, and mocking us by their mirage-likeness to the -ocean. Nearer, the ground was diversified by those -curious evidences of igneous action, which extend westward -through eastern Unyamwezi, and northwards to -the shores of the Nyanza Lake. These outcrops of -gray granite and syenite are principally of two -different shapes, the hog’s back and the turret. The -former usually appears as a low lumpy dome of various -dimensions; here a few feet long, there extending a mile -and a half in diameter: the outer coat scales off under -the action of the atmosphere, and in places it is worn -away by a network of paths. The turret is a more -picturesque and changing feature. Tall rounded -blocks and conical or cylindrical boulders, here single, -there in piles or ridges, some straight and stiff as giant -ninepins, others split as if an alley or a gateway passed -between them, rise abruptly and perpendicularly almost -without foundationary elevation, cleaving the mould of -a dead plain, or—like gypseous formations, in which -the highest boulders are planted upon the lowest and -broadest bases—they bristle upon a wave of dwarfish -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-285">[285]</span> -rocky hill. One when struck was observed to give -forth a metallic clink, and not a few, balanced upon -points, reminded me of the tradition-bearing rocking -stones. At a distance in the forest, the larger masses -might be mistaken for Cyclopean walls, towers, steeples, -minarets, loggans, dwelling houses, and ruined castles. -They are often overgrown with a soft grass, which -decaying, forms with the degradation of the granite a -thin cap of soil; their summits are crowned with tufty -cactus, a stomatiferous plant which imbibes nourishment -from the oxygen of the air; whilst huge creepers, -imitating trees, project gnarled trunks from the deeper -crevices in their flanks. Seen through the forest these -rocks are an effective feature in the landscape, especially -when the sunbeams fall warm and bright upon -their rounded summits and their smooth sides, here -clothed with a mildew-like lichen of the tenderest leek-green, -there yellowed like Italian marbles by the burning -rays, and there streaked with a shining black as if -glazed by the rain, which, collecting in cupfuls upon the -steps and slopes, at times overflows, coursing in mimic -cataracts down the heights.</p> - -<p>That march was a severe trial; we had started at dawn, -we did not, however, arrive at the Mabunguru Fiumara -before noon, and our people straggled in about eveningtide. -All our bullet-moulds, and three boxes of ammunition, -were lost. Said bin Salim, the Jemadar, and -three other men had followed in the rear, driving on the -“One-Eyed Fiend,” which, after many a prank, lay down -upon the ground, and positively declined to move. The -escort, disliking the sun, abandoned it at once to its fate, -and want of provisions, and the inordinate length of -the marches, rendered a halt or a return for the valuable -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-286">[286]</span> -load—four boxes of ammunition—out of the question. -An article once abandoned in these deserts is rarely -if ever recovered; the caravan-porters will not halt, -and a small party dares not return to recover it.</p> - -<p>The 22nd October saw us at Jiwe la Mkoa, the half-way-house -of Mgunda Mk’hali. The track, crossing the -rough Mabunguru Fiumara, passed over rolling ground -through a thorny jungle that gradually thinned out into -a forest; about 8 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> a halt was called at a water in -the wilderness. My companion being no longer able to -advance on foot, an ass was unloaded, and its burden -of ammunition was divided, for facility of porterage, -amongst the sons of Ramji. After noon we resumed -our march, and the Kirangozi, derided by the rival -guide of the Coast-Arabs’ caravan, and urged forward -by Kidogo, who was burning to see his wife and children -in Unyamwezi, determined to “put himself at the head -of himself.” The jungle seemed interminable. The -shadows of the hills lengthened out upon the plains, the -sun sank in the glory of purple, crimson, and gold, and -the crescent-moon rained a flood of silvery light upon -the topmost twig-work of the trees; we passed a dwarf -clearing, where lodging and perhaps provisions were to -be obtained, and we sped by water near the road where -the frogs were chanting their vesper-hymn; still far,—far -ahead we heard the horns and the faint march-cries of -the porters. At length, towards the end of the march, -we wound round a fantastic mass of cactus-clad -boulders, and crossing a low ridge we found at its base -a single Tembe or square village of emigrant Wakimbu, -who refused to admit us. The little basin beyond it -displayed, by “black jacks” and felled tree-trunks, -evidences of modern industry, and it extended to the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-287">[287]</span> -Jiwe or Rock, which gives its name to the clearing. We -were cheered by the sight of the red fires glaring in the -Kraal, but my companion’s ass, probably frightened by -some wild beast to us invisible, reared high in the air, -bucked like a deer, broke his frail Arab girths, and -threw his invalid rider heavily upon the hard earth. -Arrived at the Kraal, I found every boothy occupied by -the porters, who refused shelter until dragged out like -slaughtered sheep. Said bin Salim’s awning was as -usual snugly pitched; ours still lay on the ground. -The little Arab’s “duty to himself” appeared to attain -a higher limit every stage; once comfortably housed, he -never thought of offering cover to another, and his -children knew him too well even to volunteer such -a service to any one but himself. On a late occasion, -when our tent had not appeared, Said bin Salim, to -whom a message had been sent, refused to lend us one -half of the awning committed to him, a piece of canvas -cut out to serve as a tent and lug-sail. Bombay then -distinguished himself by the memorable words,—“If -you are not ashamed of your master, be ashamed of his -servant!” which had the effect of bringing the awning -and of making Said bin Salim testily refuse the half -returned to him.</p> - -<p>Jiwe la Mkoa, or the Round Rock, is the largest -of the many hogs’-backs of grey syenite that stud -this waste. It measures about two miles in extreme -diameter, and the dome rises with a gentle slope -to the height of 200 or 300 feet above the dead level of -the plain. Tolerable water is found in pits upon a -swamp at its southern base, and well covered Mtego or -elephant traps, deep grave-like excavations, like the -Indian “Ogi,” prove dangerous to travellers; in one of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-288">[288]</span> -these the Jemadar disappeared suddenly, as if by magic. -The smooth and rounded surface of the rock displays -deep hoof-shaped holes, which in a Moslem land would -at once be recognised as the Asr, or the footprints of -those holy quadrupeds, Duldul or Zu’l Jenah. In places -the Jiwe, overgrown with scattered tufts of white grass, -and based upon a dusty surface blackened by torrent -rains, forcibly suggested to the Baloch the idea of an -elderly negro’s purbald poll.</p> - -<p>We encamped close to the Jiwe, and in so doing we did -wrong: however pleasant may be the shadow of a tall -rock in a thirsty land by day, way-wise travellers avoid -the vicinity of stones which, by diminished radiation, -retain their heat throughout the night. All caravans -passing through this clearing clamour to be supplied -with provisions; our porters, who, having received -rations for eight days, which they consumed in four, -were no exceptions to the rule. As the single little -village of Jiwe la Mkoa could afford but one goatskin -of grain and a few fowls, the cattle not being for -sale, and no calves having been born to the herds, the -porters proposed to send a party with cloth and beads -to collect provaunt from the neighbouring settlements. -But the notable Khalfan bin Khamis, the most energetic -of the Coast-Arabs in whose company we were travelling, -would brook no delay: he had issued as usual -three days’ rations for a long week’s march, and thus -by driving his porters beyond their speed, he practised a -style of economy usually categorised by us at home as -“penny-wise and pound-foolish.” His marching was -conducted upon the same principle; determining to save -time, he pushed on till his men began to flag, presently -broke down, and finally deserted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-289">[289]</span></p> - -<p>At Jiwe la Mkoa the neck of the desert is broken: -the western portion of Mgunda Mk’hali has already -thinned out. On the 23rd October, despite the long -march of the preceding day, Khalfan proposed a Tirikeza, -declaring that the heavy nimbus from the west, -accompanied by a pleasant cold, portended rain, and -that this rain, like the “Choti Barsat” of India, announces -the approach of the great Masika, or vernal wet -season. Yielding to his reasons, we crossed the “Round -Rock,” and passing through an open forest of tall trees, -with here and there an undulating break, now yellow -with quartz, then black with humus, we reached, after -about three hours, another clearing like Jiwe la Mkoa, -which owes its origin to the requirements of commerce. -“Kirurumo” boasted of several newly built Tembe -of Wakimbu, who supplied caravans at an exorbitant -rate. The blackness of the ground, and the vivid -green of vegetation, evidenced the proximity of water. -The potable element was found in pits, sunk in a narrow -nullah running northwards across the clearing; it was -muddy and abundant. On the next day the road led -through a thin forest of thorns and gums, which, bare -of bush and underwood, afforded a broad path and -pleasant, easy travelling. Sign of elephant and rhinoceros, -giraffe and antelope, crossed the path, and as -usual in such places, the asses were tormented by the -Tzetze. After travelling four hours and thirty minutes, -we reached a new settlement upon the western frontier -of Uganzi, called “Jiweni,” “near the stones,” from -the heaps of block and boulder scattered round pits of -good water, sunk about three feet in the ground. The -Mongo Nullah, a deep surface-drain, bisects this clearing, -which is palpably modern. Many of the trees are -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-290">[290]</span> -barked previous to felling, and others have fallen prostrate, -apparently from the depredations of the white -ant. On the 25th, after another desert march of -2 hrs. 20′ through a flat country, where the forest -was somewhat deformed by bush and brake, which -in places narrowed the path to a mere goat-track, -we arrived at the third quarter of Mgunda Mk’hali. -“Mgongo T’hembo,” or the Elephant’s Back, derives -its name from a long narrow ridge of chocolate-coloured -syenite, outcropping from the low forest lands around -it; the crest of the chain is composed of loose rocks -and large detached boulders. Like the other inhabited -portions of Mgunda Mk’hali, it is a recent clearing; -numerous “black-jacks,” felled trees, and pollarded -stumps still cumber the fields. The “Elephant’s Back” -is, however, more extensive and better cultivated than -any of its neighbours,—Mdáburu alone excepted,—and -water being abundant and near the surface, -it supports an increasing population of mixed Wakimbu -and Wataturu, who dwell in large substantial -Tembe, and live by selling their surplus holcus, maize, and -fowls to travellers. They do not, like the Wakimbu of -Jiwe la Mkoa, refuse entrance to their villages, but they -receive the stranger with the usual niggard guest-rites of -the slave-path, and African-like, they think only of what -is to be gained by hospitality. Here I halted for a day to -recruit and to lay in rations. The length of the stages -had told upon the men; Bombay had stumped himself, -several of the sons of Ramji, and two of Said bin -Salim’s children were unable to walk; the asses, throwing -themselves upon the ground, required to be raised with -the stick, and all preferred rest even to food. Mboni, -one of the sons of Ramji, carried off a slave girl from -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-291">[291]</span> -the camp of the Coast-Arabs; her proprietor came armed -to recover her, swords were drawn, a prodigious clash -and clatter of tongue arose, friends interfered, and -blades were sheathed. Khalfan bin Khamis, losing all -patience at this delay, bade us adieu, promising to announce -our approach at Unyanyembe; about a week -afterwards, however, we found him in most melancholy -plight, halted half-way, because his over-worked porters -had taken “French leave.”</p> - -<p>We resumed our march on the 27th October, and -after a slow and painful progress for seven hours over -a rolling country, whose soil was now yellow with argile, -then white with felspar, then black-brown with humus, -through thorny bush, and forest here opening out, -there densely closing in, we arrived at the “Tura Nullah,” -the deepest of the many surface drains winding -tortuously to the S. W. The trees lining the margin -were of the noblest dimensions; the tall thick grass that -hedged them in showed signs of extensive conflagration, -and water was found in shallow pools and in deep pits -beneath the banks, on the side to which the stream, -which must be furious during the rainy season, swings. -When halted in a clear place in the jungle, we were -passed by a down caravan of Wanyamwezi; our porters -shouted and rushed up to greet their friends, the men -raised their right hands about a dozen times, and then -clapped palm to palm, and the women indulged in -“vigelegele,” the African “lulliloo,” which rang like -breech-loaders in our ears.</p> - -<p>On the next day we set out betimes through the -forest, which, as usual when nearing populous settlements, -spread out, and which began at this season to -show a preponderance of green over brown. Presently -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-292">[292]</span> -we reached a large expanse of yellow stover where the -van had halted, in order that the caravan might make -its first appearance with dignity. Ensued a clearing, -studded with large stockaded villages, peering over tall -hedges of dark green milk-bush, fields of maize and millet, -manioc, gourds, and water-melons, and showing numerous -flocks and herds, clustering around the shallow pits. -The people swarmed from their abodes, young and old -hustling one another for a better stare; the man forsook -his loom and the girl her hoe, and for the remainder -of the march we were escorted by a tail of screaming -boys and shouting adults; the males almost nude, the -women, bare to the waist and clothed only knee-deep in -kilts, accompanied us, puffing pipes the while, with -wallets of withered or flabby flesh flapping the air, -striking their hoes with stones, crying “Beads! beads!” -and ejaculating their wonder in strident explosions of -“Hi! hi!—Hui! ih!” and “Ha!—a!—a!” It was a -spectacle to make an anchorite of a man,—it was at -once ludicrous and disgusting.</p> - -<p>At length the Kirangozi fluttered his red flag in the -wind, and the drums, horns, and larynxes of his followers -began the fearful uproar which introduces a -caravan to the admiring “natives.” Leading the way, -our guide, much to my surprise,—I knew not then that -such was the immemorial custom of Unyamwezi,—entered -uninvited and sans ceremony the nearest large -village; the long string of porters flocked in with bag and -baggage, and we followed their example. The guests -at once dispersed themselves through the several courts -and compounds into which the interior hollow was divided, -and lodged themselves with as much regard for -self and disregard for their grumbling hosts as possible. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-293">[293]</span> -We were placed under a wall-less roof, bounded on one -side by the bars of the village palisade, and the mob of -starers that relieved one another from morning till night -made me feel like the denizen of a menagerie.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-294">[294]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoi-13"> -<img src="images/i_illo322.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Usagara Mountains, seen from Ugogo.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. IX.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOGRAPHY OF UGOGO,—THE THIRD REGION.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The third division of the country visited is a flat table-land -extending from the Ugogi “Dhun,” or valley, at the -western base of the Wasagara Mountains, in E. long. -36° 14′, to Tura, the eastern district of Unyamwezi, in E. -long. 33° 57′; occupying a diagonal breadth of 155 geographical -rectilinear miles. The length from north to -south is not so easily estimated. The Wahumba and -the Wataturu in the former, and the Wahehe and -Warori in the latter direction, are migratory tribes that -spurn a civilised frontier; according to the Arabs, however, -the Wagogo extend three long marches on an -average to the north and four or five southwards. This, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-295">[295]</span> -assuming the march at 15 miles, would give a total of -120. The average of the heights observed is 3,650 feet, -with a gradual rise westwards to Jiwe la Mkoa, which -attains an altitude of 4,200 feet(?).</p> - -<p>The third region, situated to leeward of a range -whose height compels the south-east trades to part with -their load of vapours, and distant from the succession -of inland seas, which, stationed near the centre of the -African continent, act as reservoirs to restore the -balance of humidity, is an arid, sterile land, a counterpart, -in many places, of the Kalahari and the Karroo, -or South African desert-plains. The general aspect is -a glaring yellow flat, darkened by long growths of -acrid, saline, and succulent plants, thorny bush, and -stunted trees, and the colouring is monotonous in the -extreme. It is sprinkled with isolated dwarf cones -bristling with rocks and boulders, from whose interstices -springs a thin forest of gums, thorns, and mimosas. -The power of igneous agency is displayed in protruding -masses of granitic formation, which rise from the dead -level with little foundationary elevation; and the masses -of sandstone, superincumbent upon the primitive base -in other parts of the country, here disappear. On the -north rises the long tabular range of the Wahumba -Hills, separated by a line of lower ground from the plateau. -Southwards, a plain, imperceptibly shelving, trends -towards the Rwaha River. There are no rivers in Ugogo: -the periodical rains are carried off by large nullahs, -whose clay banks are split and cut during the season of -potent heat into polygonal figures like piles of columnar -basalt. On the sparkling nitrous salinas and the dull-yellow -or dun-coloured plains the mirage faintly resembles -the effects of refraction in desert Arabia. The roads -are mere foot-tracks worn through the fields and bushes. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-296">[296]</span> -The kraals are small dirty circles enclosing a calabash -or other tree, against which goods are stacked. The -boothies are made of dried canes and stubble, surrounded -by a most efficient <i>chevaux de frise</i> of thorn-boughs. -At the end of the dry season they are burnt down by -inevitable accident. The want of wood prevents their -being made solidly, and for the same reason “bois de -vache” is the usual fuel of the country.</p> - -<p>The formation of the subsoil is mostly sandstone -bearing a ruddy sand. The surface is in rare places a -brown vegetable humus, extending but a few inches in -depth, or more generally a hard yellow-reddish ferruginous -clay covered with quartz nodules of many colours, -and lumps of carbonate of lime, or white and siliceous -sand, rather resembling a well-metalled road or an -“untidy expanse of gravel-walk” than the rich moulds -which belong to the fertile African belt. In many parts -are conical anthills of pale red earth; in others ironstone -crops out of the plain; and everywhere fine and -coarse grits abound. The land is in parts condemned -to perpetual drought, and nowhere is water either good -or plentiful. It is found in the serpentine beds of nullahs, -and after rain in ziwa, vleys, tanks, pools, or ponds, -filled by a gentle gravitation, and retained by a strong -clay, in deep pits excavated by the people, or in shallow -holes “crowed” in the ground. The supplies of this -necessary divide the country into three great districts. -On the east is Marenga Mk’hali, a thick bush, where a -few villages, avoided by travellers, are scattered north -and south of the road. The heart of the region is -Ugogo, the most populous and the best cultivated -country, divided into a number of small and carefully -cultivated clearings by tracts of dense bush and timberless -woods, a wall of verdure during the rains, and in -the hot season a system of thorns and broomwork which -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-297">[297]</span> -serves merely to impede a free circulation of the air. -These seams of waste land appear strange in a country -populated of old; the Arabs, however, declare that the land -is more thinly inhabited than it used to be. Mgunda -Mk’hali, the western division, is a thin forest and a heap -of brakey jungle. The few hills are thickly clothed -with vegetation, probably because they retain more -moisture than the plains.</p> - -<p>The climate of Ugogo is markedly arid. During the -transit of the Expedition in September and October, -the best water-colours faded and hardened in their pans; -India-rubber, especially the prepared article in squares, -became viscid, like half-dried birdlime; “Macintosh” -was sticking plaister, and the best vulcanized elastic-bands -tore like brown paper. During almost the whole -year a violent east-wind sweeps from the mountains. -There are great changes in the temperature, whilst the -weather apparently remains the same, and alternate -currents of hot and cold air were observed. In the long -summer the climate much resembles that of Sindh; -there are the same fiery suns playing upon the naked -surface with a painful dazzle, cool crisp nights, and -clouds of dust. The succulent vegetation is shrivelled -up and carbonised by heat, and the crackling covering -of clayey earth and thin sand, whose particles are unbound -by dew or rain, rises in lofty whirling columns -like water-spouts when the north wind from the Wahumba -Hills meets the gusts of Usagara, which are -soon heated to a furnace-breath by the glowing surface. -These “p’hepo” or “devils” scour the plain with the -rapidity of horsemen, and, charged with coarse grain -and small pebbles, strike with the violence of heavy -hail. The siccity and repercussion of heat produce an -atmosphere of peculiar brilliancy in Ugogo: the milky -haze of the coast-climate is here unknown. The sowing -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-298">[298]</span> -season, at which time also trees begin to bud and birds -to breed, is about the period of the sun’s greatest -southern declination, and the diminution of temperature -displays in these regions the effects of the tepid -winds and the warm vernal showers of the European -continent. There is no Vuli, and thus the -climate is unrefreshed by the copious tropical rains. -About the middle of November the country is visited -by a few preliminary showers, accompanied by a violent -tramontana, and the vital principle which appears -extinct starts once more into sudden and excessive -activity. Towards the end of December the Masika, or -rainy season, commences with the wind shifting from -the east to the north and north-east, blowing steadily -from the high grounds eastward and westward of the -Nyanza Lake, which have been saturated by heavy falls -beginning in September. The “winter” seldom exceeds -the third month, and the downfall is desultory -and uncertain, causing frequent droughts and famine. -For this reason the land is much inferior in fertility to -the other regions, and the cotton and tobacco, which -flourish from the coast to the Tanganyika Lake, are -deficient in Ugogo, whilst rice is supplanted by the -rugged sorghum and maize.</p> - -<p>Arab and other travellers unaccustomed to the -country at first suffer from the climate, which must -not, however, be condemned. They complain of the -tourbillons, the swarms of flies, and the violent changes -from burning heat to piercing cold, which is always experienced -in that region when the thermometer sinks -below 60°-55° F. Their thin tents, pitched under a -ragged calabash, cannot mitigate the ardour of an unclouded -sun; the salt-bitter water, whose nitrous and saline -deposits sometimes tarnish a silver ring like the -fumes of sulphur, affects their health; whilst the appetite, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-299">[299]</span> -stimulated by a purer atmosphere and the coolness of the -night air, is kept within due bounds only by deficiency -in the means of satisfying it. Those who have -seen Africa further west, are profuse in their praises of -the climate on their return-march from the interior. -The mukunguru, or seasoning fever, however, rarely -fails to attack strangers. It is, like that of the second -region, a violent bilious attack, whose consequences are -sleeplessness, debility, and severe headaches: the hot fit -compared with the algid stage is unusually long and rigorous. -In some districts the parexia is rarely followed -by the relieving perspiration; and when natural diaphoresis -appears, it by no means denotes the termination -of the paroxysm. Other diseases are rare, and the terrible -ulcerations of K’hutu and Eastern Usagara are almost -unknown in Ugogo. There is little doubt that the land, -if it afforded good shelter, purified water, and regular -diet, would be eminently wholesome.</p> - -<p>In the uninviting landscape a tufty, straggling grass, -like living hay, often raised on little mounds, with bald -places between, thinly strewed with bits of quartz and -sandstone, replaces the tall luxuriant herbage of the -maritime plain, and the arboraceous and frutescent -produce of the mountains. The dryness of the climate, -and the poverty of the soil, are displayed in the larger -vegetation. The only tree of considerable growth is -the calabash, and it is scattered over the country widely -apart. A variety of frankincense overspreads the -ground; the bark is a deep burnished bronze, whitened -above with an incrustation, probably nitrous, that resembles -hoar-frost; and the long woody twigs are -bleached by the falling off of the outer integuments. -The mukl or bdellium tree rises like a dwarf calabash -from a low copse. The Arabs declare this produce of -Ugogo (<i>Balsamodendron Africanum?</i>), to be of good -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-300">[300]</span> -quality. Rubbed upon a stone and mixed with water -it is applied with a pledget of cotton to sluggish and -purulent sores; and women use it for fumigation. -The Africans ignore its qualities, and the Baloch, -though well acquainted with the bdellium, gugal, or -guggur, in their own country, did not observe it in -Ugogo. The succulent plants, cactus, aloe, and -euphorbia, will not burn; the air within them expands -with heat, and the juices gushing out extinguish the -flame. Amongst various salsolæ, or saltworts, the shrub -called by the Arabs arak, the Capparis Sodata of Sindh -and Arabia, with its currant-like bunches of fruit, -is conspicuous for its evergreen verdure; the ragged -and stunted mtungulu rains its apples upon the ground; -and the mbembu, in places sheltered from the sun, bears -a kind of medlar which is eagerly sought by the hungry -traveller. The euphorbiæ here rise to the height of -35 or 40 feet, and the hard woody stem throws out a -mass of naked arms, in the shape of a huge cap, impervious -to the midday sun.</p> - -<p>Wild animals abound through these jungles, and the -spoor lasts long upon the crisp gravelly soil. In some -districts they visit by night the raised clay water-troughs -of the cultivators. The elephant prefers the thick jungle, -where he can wallow in the pools and feed delicately -upon succulent roots and fruits, bark, and leaves. The -rhinoceros loves the dark clumps of trees, which guard -him from the noonday sun, and whence he can sally out -all unexpected upon the assailant. The mbogo, or Bos -Caffer, driven from his favourite spots, low grassy plains -bordering on streams, wanders, like the giraffe, through -the thinner forests. As in Unyamwezi, the roar of the -lion strikes the ear by night, and the cry of the ostrich by -day. The lion upon this line of Eastern Africa is often -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-301">[301]</span> -heard, but rarely seen; on only two occasions its footprints -appeared upon the road. The king of beasts, -according to the Arabs, is of moderate stature: it -seldom attains its maximum of strength, stature, and -courage, except in plain countries where game abounds, as -in the lands north of the Cape, or in hills and mountains, -where cattle can be lifted at discretion, as in Northern -Africa. In Unyamwezi its spoils, which are yellow, -like those of the Arab lion, with a long mane, said to -hang over the eyes, and with a whitish tinge under the -jaws, become the property of the Sultan. The animal is -more common in the high lands of Karagwah than in the -low countries; it has, however, attacked the mbogo, or -wild bull, and has destroyed cattle within sight of the -Arabs at Kazeh in Unyanyembe. The lion is rarely a -man-eater; this peculiarity, according to some writers, -being confined to old beasts, whose worn teeth are unfit -for fight.</p> - -<p>The “polygamous bird” was first observed on the -Ugogo plateau; it extends through Unyamwezi and -Usukuma to Ujiji. The eggs are sold, sometimes fresh, -but more generally stale. Emptied and dried, they -form the principal circulating-medium between the -Arab merchants and the coffee-growing races near the -Nyanza Lake, who cut them up and grind them into -ornamental disks and crescents. The young birds are -caught, but are rarely tamed. In Usukuma the bright -and glossy feathers of the old male are much esteemed -for adorning the hair; yet, curious to say, the bird is -seldom hunted. Moreover, these East Africans have -never attempted to export the feathers, which, when -white and uninjured, are sold, even by the Somal, for 8 -dollars per lb. The birds are at once wild and stupid, -timid and headstrong: their lengthened strides and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-302">[302]</span> -backward glances announce terror at the sight of man, -and it is impossible to stalk them in the open grounds, -which they prefer. The leopard and the cynhyæna, the -koodoo and the different species of antelope, are more -frequently killed in these deserts than in any other part -of the line. Hog of reddish colour, and hares with -rufous fur, are sometimes started by caravans. The -hyrax of the Somali country basks upon the rocks and -boulders, and the carapace of a small land-turtle, called -khasa, fastened to a branch, serves as a road-sign. The -k’hwalu, a small green parrot, with yellow shoulders, -the upupa or hoopoe, a great variety of fly-catchers, -larks with jet-black heads and yellow bodies, small -bustards, hornbills, nightjars, muscicapæ, green pigeons, -sparrow-hawks, and small doves, are seen in every -jungle. Near the settlements the white-necked raven -and the common chíl of India (Falco cheela), attest the -presence of man, as the monkey does the proximity of -water. The nest of the loxia swings to and fro in the -fierce simoom; the black Bataleur eagle of Somaliland, a -splendid bird, towering shily in the air, with his light -under-plume gleaming like a silver plate, and large vultures -(condors?) flocking from afar, denote the position -of a dead or dying animal.</p> - -<p>Until late years the Wagogo, being more numerous -than they are now, deterred travellers from traversing -their country: in those early days the road to Unyamwezi, -running along the left or northern bank of the -Rwaha, through the Warori tribe, struck off near -Usanga and Usenga. It is related, when the first caravan, -led by Jumah Mfumbi, the late Diwan of Saadani, -entered Ugogo, that the people, penetrated with admiration -of his corpulence, after many experiments to -find out whether it was real or not, determined that he -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-303">[303]</span> -was and must be the Deity. Moreover, after coming to -this satisfactory conclusion, they resolved that, being -the Deity, he could improve their country by heavy -rains; and when he protested against both these resolutions, -they proposed to put him to death. A succession -of opportune showers, however, released him. By degrees -the ever-increasing insolence and violence of the Warori -drove travellers to this northern line, and the Wagogo -learned to see strangers without displaying this Lybian -mania for sacrificing them.</p> - -<p>Three main roads, leading from Western Usagara -westward, cross the Desert of Marenga Mk’hali. The -most northern is called Yá Nyiká—of the wilderness—a -misnomer, if the assertion of the guides be correct that -it is well watered, and peopled by the subjects of eight -sultans. The central line, described in the preceding -pages, is called, from its middle station, Marenga -Mk’hali: it is invariably preferred when water is scarce. -The southern road is termed Nyá Ngáhá, a continuation -of the Kiringwana route, previously alluded to: it has -provisions, but the people cause much trouble.</p> - -<p>The superiority of climate, and probably the absence -of that luxuriant vegetation which distinguishes the -eastern region, have proved favourable to the physical -development of the races living in and about Ugogo. -The Wagogo, and their northern neighbours the Wahumba, -are at once distinguishable from the wretched -population of the alluvial valleys, and of the mountains -of Usagara; though living in lower altitudes, they are a -fairer race—and therefore show better blood—than the -Wanyamwezi. These two tribes, whose distinctness -is established by difference of dialect, will be described -in order.</p> - -<p>The Wagogo extend from the landward base of Usagara -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-304">[304]</span> -in direct distance to Mdáburu a five days’ march: -on the north they are bounded by the Watáturu, on the -south by the Wabena tribes; the breadth of their country -is computed at about eight stages. In the north, -however, they are mingled with the Wahumba, in the -south-east with the Wahehe, and in the south with the -Warori.</p> - -<p>The Wagogo display the variety of complexion usually -seen amongst slave-purchasing races: many of them are -fair as Abyssinians; some are black as negroes. In the -eastern and northern settlements they are a fine, stout, -and light-complexioned race. Their main peculiarity -is the smallness of the cranium compared with the -broad circumference of the face at and below the -zygomata: seen from behind the appearance is that of a -small half-bowl fitted upon one of considerably larger -bias; and this, with the widely-extended ears, gives -a remarkable expression to the face. Nowhere in -Eastern Africa is the lobe so distended. Pieces of cane -an inch or two in length, and nearly double the girth -of a man’s finger, are so disposed that they appear like -handles to the owner’s head. The distinctive mark of -the tribe is the absence of the two lower incisors; but -they are more generally recognised by the unnatural -enlargement of their ears—in Eastern Africa the “aures -perforatæ” are the signs, not of slavery, but of freedom. -There is no regular tattoo, though some of the women -have two parallel lines running from below the bosom -down the abdomen, and the men often extract only a -single lower incisor. The hair is sometimes shaved clean, -at others grown in mop-shape—more generally it is -dressed in a mass of tresses, as amongst the Egyptians, -and the skin, as well as the large bunch of corkscrews, -freely stained with ochre and micaceous earths, drips -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-305">[305]</span> -with ghee, the pride of rank and beauty. The Wagogo -are not an uncomely race: some of the younger women -might even lay claim to prettiness. The upper part of -the face is often fine, but the lips are ever thick, and -the mouth coarse; similarly the body is well formed to -the haunches, but the lean calf is placed peculiarly -high up the leg. The expression of the countenance, -even in the women, is wild and angry; and the round -eyes are often reddened and bleared by drink. The -voice is strong, strident, and commanding.</p> - -<p>Their superiority of clothing gives the Wagogo, when -compared with the Wasagara or the Wanyamwezi, an -aspect of civilisation; a skin garment is here as rare as -a cotton farther west. Even the children are generally -clad. The attire of the men is usually some Arab -check or dyed Indian cotton: many also wear sandals -of single hide. Married women are clothed in “cloths -with names,” when wealthy, and in domestics when poor. -The dress of the maidens under puberty is the languti -of Hindostan, a kind of T-bandage, with the front ends -depending to the knees; it is supported by a single or -double string of the large blue glass-beads called Sungomaji. -A piece of coarse cotton cloth two yards long, -and a few inches broad, is fastened to the girdle -behind, and passing under the fork, is drawn tightly -through the waistbelt in front; from the zone the lappet -hangs mid-down to the shins, and when the wearer -is in rapid motion it has a most peculiar appearance. -The ornaments of both sexes are kitindi, and -bracelets and anklets of thick iron and brass-wires, -necklaces of brass chains, disks and armlets of fine -ivory, the principal source of their wealth, and bands -of hide-strip with long hair, bound round the wrists, -above the elbows, and below the knees: they value -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-306">[306]</span> -only the highest priced beads, coral and pink porcelains. -As usual the males appear armed. Some import -from Unyamwezi and the westward regions the -long double-edged knife called sime, a “serviceable -dudgeon” used in combat or in peaceful avocations, -like the snick-an-snee of the ancient Dutch. Shields -are unknown. The bow is long: the handle and the -horns are often adorned with plates of tin and zinc, and -the string is whipped round the extremities for strength. -The spear resembles that used by the Wanyamwezi in the -elephant-hunt: it is about four feet long, and the head is -connected with a stout wooden handle by an iron neck -measuring half the length of the weapon. In eastern -Ugogo, where the Masai are near, the Wagogo have -adopted their huge shovel-headed spears and daggers, -like those of the Somal. It is the fashion for men to -appear in public with the peculiar bill-hook used in -Usagara; and in the fields the women work with the -large hoe of Unyamwezi.</p> - -<p>The villages of the Wagogo are square Tembe, low -and mean-looking for want of timber. The outer walls -are thin poles, planted in the ground and puddled with -mud. The huts, partitioned off like ships’ bunks, are -exceedingly dirty, being shared by the domestic animals, -dogs, and goats. They are scantily furnished with a -small stool, a cot of cow’s hide stretched to a small -framework, a mortar for grain, and sundry gourds -and bark corn-bins. About sunset all the population -retires, and the doors are carefully barricaded for fear -of the plundering Wahumba. At night it is dangerous -to approach the villages.</p> - -<p>The language of Ugogo is harsher than the dialects -spoken by their eastern and western neighbours. In the -eastern parts the people understand the Masai tongue. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-307">[307]</span> -Many can converse fluently in the Kisawahili, or coast-tongue. -The people, however, despise all strangers -except the Warori and the Wahumba, and distinguish -the Wanyamwezi by the name of Wakonongo, which -they also apply to travellers in general. Within the -memory of man one Kafuke, of Unyamwezi, a great -merchant, and a Mtongi or caravan leader, when traversing -Ugogo with some thousands of followers, became -involved in a quarrel about paying for water. After -fifteen days of skirmishing, the leader was slain and the -party was dispersed. The effect on both tribes has -lasted to the present day. After the death of Kafuke -no rain fell for some years—a phenomenon attributed -by the Wagogo to his powers of magic; and the land -was almost depopulated. The Wanyamwezi, on the -other hand, have never from that time crossed the -country without fear and trembling. In the many wars -between the two tribes the Wagogo have generally -proved themselves the better men. This superiority -has induced a brawling and bullying manner. They -call themselves Wáná Wádege, or sons of birds—that -is to say, semper parati. The Wanyamwezi studiously -avoid offending them; and the porters will obey the -command of a boy rather than risk an encounter. “He -is a Mgogo,” said before the Bobadil’s face, makes him -feel himself forty times a man; yet he will fly in terror -before one of the Warori or the Wahumba.</p> - -<p>The strength of the Wagogo lies in their comparative -numbers. As the people seldom travel to the coast, -their scattered villages are full of fighting men. Moreover, -Uchawi or black magic here numbers few believers, -consequently those drones of the social hive, -the Waganga, or medicine-men, are not numerous. -The Wagogo seldom sell their children and relations, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-308">[308]</span> -yet there is no order against the practice. They barter -for slaves their salt and ivory, the principal produce of -the country. No caravan ever passes through the -country without investing capital in the salt-bitter substance -which is gathered in flakes efflorescing; from the -dried mud upon the surface of the Mbuga, or swampy -hollows; the best and the cheapest is found in the -district of Kanyenye. It is washed to clear it of dirt, -boiled till it crystallises, spread upon clean and smoothed -ground, and moulded with the hands into rude cones -about half a foot in length, which are bought at -the rate of 7-10 for a Shukkah, and are sold at a -high premium after a few days’ march. Ugogo supplies -western Usagara and the eastern regions of Unyamwezi -with this article. It is, however, far inferior to -the produce of the Rusugi pits, in Uvinza, which, on -account of its “sweetness,” finds its way throughout -the centre of Africa. Elephants are numerous in the -country: every forest is filled with deep traps, and -during droughthy seasons many are found dead in the -jungle. The country is divided into districts; the -tusks become the property of the Sultan within whose -boundaries the animal falls, and the meat is divided -amongst his subjects. Ivory is given in barter for slaves: -this practice assures to caravans a hold upon the people, -who, having an active commerce with the coast, cannot -afford to be shut out from it. The Wagogo are so greedy -of serviles that every gang leaves among them some of its -live stock—the principal want of the listless and indolent -cultivator. The wild captives bought in the interior, -wayworn and fond of change, are persuaded by a word to -desert; they take the first opportunity of slipping away -from their masters, generally stealing a weapon and a -little cloth or rations for immediate use. Their new -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-309">[309]</span> -masters send them off the road lest they should be -recognised and claimed: after a time a large hoe is -placed in their hands, and the fools feel, when too late, -that they have exchanged an easy for a hard life. The -Wagogo sell their fellow tribe-men only when convicted of -magic; though sometimes parents, when in distress, part -with their children. The same is the case amongst -their northern neighbours, the Wamasai, the Wahumba, -and the Wakwafi, who, however, are rarely in the -market, and who, when there, though remarkable for -strength and intelligence, are little prized, in consequence -of their obstinate and untameable characters;—many -of them would rather die under the stick -than level themselves with women by using a hoe.</p> - -<p>The Wagogo are celebrated as thieves who will, like -the Wahehe, rob even during the day. They are importunate -beggars, who specify their long list of wants -without stint or shame; their principal demand is tobacco, -which does not grow in the land; and they resemble the -Somal, who never sight a stranger without stretching -out the hand for “Bori.” The men are idle and debauched, -spending their days in unbroken crapulence -and drunkenness, whilst the girls and women hoe the -fields, and the boys tend the flocks and herds. They -mix honey with their pombe, or beer, and each man -provides entertainment for his neighbours in turn. -After midday it would be difficult throughout the -country to find a chief without the thick voice, fiery -eyes, and moidered manners, which prove that he is -either drinking or drunk.</p> - -<p>The Arabs declaim against the Wagogo as a “curst,” -ill-conditioned and boisterous, a violent and extortionate -race. They have certainly no idea of manners: they -flock into a stranger’s tent, squat before him, staring -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-310">[310]</span> -till their curiosity is satisfied, and unmercifully quizzing -his peculiarities. Upon the road a mob of both sexes will -press and follow a caravan for miles. The women, carrying -their babes in leopard-skins bound behind the back, -and with unveiled bosoms, stand or run, fiercely shouting -with the excitement of delight, and the girls laugh and -deride the stranger as impudently as boys would in more -modest lands. Yet, as has been said, this curiosity argues -to a certain extent improvability; the most degraded -tribes are too apathetic to be roused by strange sights. -Moreover, the Wagogo are not deficient in rude hospitality. -A stranger is always greeted with the “Yambo” -salutation. He is not driven from their doors, as -amongst the Wazaramo and Wasagara; and he is readily -taken into brotherhood. The host places the stool for -his guests, seating himself on the ground: he prepares -a meal of milk and porridge, and on parting presents, -if he can afford it, a goat or a cow. The African -“Fundi” or “Fattori” of caravans are rarely sober in -Ugogo. The women are well disposed towards strangers -of fair complexion, apparently with the permission of -their husbands. According to the Arabs, the husband -of the daughter is also <i>de jure</i> the lover of her mother.</p> - -<p>The Sultan amongst the Wagogo is called Mtemi, a -high title. He exercises great authority, and is held in -such esteem by his people, that a stranger daring to -possess the same name would be liable to chastisement. -The ministers, who are generally brothers or blood-relations, -are known as Wázágíra (in the singular Mzágírá), -and the councillors, who are the elders and the -honourables of the tribe, take the Kinyamwezi title -“Wányápárá.”</p> - -<p>The necessaries of life are dear in Ugogo. The people -will rarely barter their sheep, goats, and cows for plain -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-311">[311]</span> -white or blue cottons, and even in exchange for milk -they demand coral, pink, or blue glass beads. A moderate -sized caravan will expend from six to ten shukkah -per diem. The Wanyamwezi travelling-parties -live by their old iron hoes, for which grain is returned -by the people, who hold the metal in request.</p> - -<p>The Wahumba, by some called Wahumpa, is one of -the terrible pastoral nations “beyond the rivers of -Æthiopia.” To judge from their dialect they are, like -the Wakwafi, a tribe or a subtribe of the great Masai -race, who speak a language partly South-African and -partly Semitico-African, like that of the Somal. The -habitat of the Wahumba extends from the north of -Usagara to the eastern shores of the Nyanza or Ukerewe -Lake; it has been remarked that a branch of the Mukondokwa -River rises in their mountains. The blue -highlands occupied by this pastoral race, clearly visible, -on the right hand, to the traveller passing from Ugogo -westwards, show where the ancient route from Pangani-town -used to fall into the main trunk-road of Unyamwezi. -Having but little ivory, they are seldom visited by -travellers: their country, however, was explored some -years ago by an Arab merchant, Hamid bin Salim, for -the purpose of buying asses. He set out from Tura, in -eastern Unyamwezi, and, traversing the country of the -wild Watatúru, arrived on the eighth day at the frontier -district I´ramba, where there is a river which separates -the tribes. He was received with civility; but -none have since followed his example.</p> - -<p>The Wahumba are a fair and comely race, with the -appearance of mountaineers, long-legged, and lightly -made. They have repeatedly ravaged the lands of -Usagara and Ugogo: in the latter country, near -Usek’he, there are several settlements of this people, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-312">[312]</span> -who have exchanged the hide-tent for the hut, and the -skin for the cotton-cloth. They stain their garments -with ochreish earth, and their women are distinguished -by wearing Kitindi of full and half-size above and below -the elbows. The ear lobes are pierced and distended -by both sexes, as amongst the Wagogo. In their own -land they are purely pastoral; they grow no grain, -despise vegetable food, and subsist entirely upon meat -or milk according to the season. Their habitations -are hemispheres of boughs lashed together and roofed -with a cow’s hide; it is the primitive dwelling-place, -and the legs of the occupant protrude beyond the -shelter. Their arms, which are ever hung up close at -hand, are broad-headed spears of soft iron, long “Sine,” -or double-edged daggers, with ribbed wooden handles -fastened to the blade by a strip of cow’s tail shrunk on, -and “Rungu,” or wooden knob-kerries, with double -bulges that weight the weapon as it whirls through the -air. They ignore and apparently despise the bow and -arrows, but in battle they carry the Pavoise, or large -hide-shield, affected by the Kafirs of the Cape. The -Arabs, when in force, do not fear their attacks.</p> - -<p>The Wahumba, like their congeners the Wakwafi, -bandage the infant’s leg from ankle to knee, and the -ligature is not removed till the child can stand upright. -Its object is to prevent the development of the calf, -which, according to their physiology, diminishes the -speed and endurance of the runner. The specimens of -Wahumba seen in different parts of Ugogo showed the -soleus and gastrocnemeius muscles remarkably shrunken, -and the projection of the leg rising close below the knee.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoi-6"> -<img src="images/i_illo342.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VIEW IN UNYAMWEZI.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-313">[313]</span></p> - -<div class="container w30em" id="Illoi-14"> -<img src="images/i_illo343.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Ladies’ Smoking Party.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. X.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">WE ENTER UNYAMWEZI, THE FAR-FAMED LAND OF THE MOON.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The district of Tura, though now held, like Jiwe la -Mkoa and Mgongo T’hembo, by Wakimbu, is considered -the eastern frontier of Unyamwezi proper, which claims -superiority over the minor neighbouring tribes. Some, -however, extend the “land of the moon” eastward as -far as Jiwe la Mkoa, and the porters when entering the -“Fiery Field,” declare that they are setting foot upon -their own ground. The word “Tura,” pronounced by -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-314">[314]</span> -the Wanyamwezi “Tula” or “Itula,” means “put -down!” (scil. your pack): as the traveller, whether -from the east or from the west, will inevitably be delayed -for some days at this border settlement. Tula is -situated in S. lat. 5° 2′ and E. long. 33° 57′, and -the country rises 4,000 feet above sea level. After the -gloomy and monotonous brown jungles and thorn -forests of Mgunda Mk’hali, whose sinuous line of thick -jungle still girds the northern horizon, the fair champaign, -bounded on either hand by low rolling and -rounded hills of primary formation, with a succession of -villages and many a field of holcus and sesamum, maize, -millet, and other cereals, of manioc and gourds, water -melons and various pulses, delights the sight, and -appears to the African traveller a Land of Promise.</p> - -<p>The pertinacious Kidogo pressed me to advance, declaring -the Wakimbu of Tura to be a dangerous race: -they appeared however a timid and ignoble people, -dripping with castor and sesamum oil, and scantily -attired in shreds of unclean cotton or greasy goat-skins. -At Tura the last of the thirty asses bought at -Zanzibar paid the debt of nature, leaving us, besides -the one belonging to the Jemadar, but three African -animals purchased on the road. A few extra porters -were therefore engaged. Our people, after the -discomforts of the bivouac, found the unsavoury village -a perfect paradise; they began somewhat prematurely -to beg for Bakhshish, and Muinyi Wazira requested -dismissal on the plea that a slave sent by him on a -trading-expedition into the interior had, by dying, endangered -the safety of the venture. On the morning of -the 30th October Kidogo led us over the plain through -cultivation and villages to another large settlement on -the western outskirt of the Tura district. As I disappointed -him in his hopes of a Tirikeza, he passed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-315">[315]</span> -the night in another Tembe, which was occupied by the -caravans of Coast-Arabs and their slave girls, to one of -whom, said Scan. Mag., he had lost his heart, and he -punished me by halting through the next day. As we -neared the end of the journey the sons of Ramji -became more restive under their light loads; their dignity -was hurt by shouldering a pack, and day after day, -till I felt weary of life, they left their burdens upon -the ground. However, on the 1st November, they so -far recovered temper that the caravan was able to -cross the thin jungle, based upon a glaring white soil, -which divides the Tura from the Rubuga District. -After a march of 6 hrs. and 30′, we halted on the -banks of the Kwale or “Partridge” Nullah, where, -though late in the season, we found several long pools -of water. The porters collected edible bivalves and -caught a quantity of mud-fish by the “rough and ready” -African process, a waist-cloth tied to a pair of sticks, -and used by two men as a drag-net. At Rubuga, -which we reached in 5 hrs. and 45′, marching over -a plain of black earth, thinly garnished with grass -and thorn-trees, and then through clearings overgrown -with stubble, I was visited by an Arab merchant, -Abdullah bin Jumah, who, with a flying-caravan, had -left Konduchi on the coast 2 months and 20 days -after our departure. According to him his caravan had -lately marched thirty miles in the twenty-four hours: -it was the greatest distance accomplished in these regions; -but the Arabs are fond of exaggeration, the -party was small and composed of lightly laden men, -and moreover it required two days’ rest after so unusual -an exertion. This merchant unwittingly explained a -something which had puzzled me; whenever an advance -beyond Unyanyembe had been made the theme of conversation, -Said bin Salim’s countenance fell, and he -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-316">[316]</span> -dropped dark hints touching patience and the power of -Allah to make things easy. Abdullah rendered the expression -intelligible by asking me if I considered the -caravan strong enough to dare the dangers of the road—which -he grossly exaggerated—between Unyamwezi-Land -and Ujiji. I replied that I did, and that even if -I did not, such bugbears should not cause delay; Abdullah -smiled, but was too polite to tell me that he did -not believe me.</p> - -<p>A “doux marcher” of 2 hrs. 40′ on the 3rd -November, led us to the western limit of the Rubuga -District. During the usual morning-halt under -a clump of shady milk-bush, I was addressed by -Maura or Maula, the Sultan of a large neighbouring -village of Wanyamwezi: being a civilised man and a -coast-traveller, he could not allow the caravan of the -“Wazungu” to pass his quarters without presenting to -him a bullock, and extracting from him a little cloth. -Like most chiefs in the “Land of the Moon,” he was a -large-limbed, gaunt, angular, tall old man, with a black -oily skin, seamed with wrinkles; and long wiry pigtails -thickened with grease, melted butter, and castor-oil, depending -from the sides of his purbald head. His dress—an -old Barsati round the loins, and a grimy Subai -loosely thrown over the shoulders—was redolent of -boiled frankincense; his ankles were concealed by a -foot depth of brass and copper “Sambo,” thin wires -twisted round a little bundle of elephant’s, buffalo’s, -or zebra’s hair; and he wore single-soled sandals, -decorated with four disks of white shell, about the size -of a crown-piece, bound to the thongs that passed between -the toes and girt the heel. He recognised the -Baloch, greeted all kindly, led the way to his village, -ordered lodgings to be cleared and cleaned, caused the -cartels or bedsteads,—the first seen by us for many -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-317">[317]</span> -months,—to be vacated, and left us to look for a bullock. -At the village door I had remarked a rude attempt at -fashioning a block of wood into what was palpably intended -for a form human and feminine; the Moslems of -course pronounced it to be an idol, but the people declared -that they paid no respect to it. They said the -same concerning the crosses and the serpent-like ornaments -of white ashes—in this land lime is unknown—with -which the brown walls of their houses were decorated.</p> - -<p>We made bonne chère at Rubuga, which is celebrated -for its milk and meat, ghee and honey. On the wayside -were numerous hives, the Mazinga or “cannons,” -before described; here however they were raised out of -the reach of the ants, white and black, upon a pair of -short forked supports, instead of being suspended from -the branches of a tall tree. My companion brought -from a neighbouring swamp a fine Egyptian, or ruddy -goose, and a brace of crane-like water-fowl: these the -Wanyamwezi porters, expecting beef, disdained, because -rejected by the Baloch, yet at Inenge they had picked -the carcase of a way-spent ass. Presently we were -presented by the Sultan with one of the fattest of his -fine bulls; it was indeed</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“A grazier’s without and a butcher’s within;”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">withal, so violent and unmanageable that no man could -approach, much less secure it: it rushed about the village -like a wild buffalo, scattering the people, who all -fled except the Sultan, till it was stopped dead in a -most determined charge, with a couple of rifle-bullets, -by my companion. In return, Maula received a crimson -cloth and two domestics, after which he begged for -everything, including percussion caps, for which he had -no gun. He appeared most anxious to detain the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-318">[318]</span> -caravan, and in the evening his carefully concealed -reasons leaked out—he wanted me to cure his son of -fever, and to “put the colophon” upon a neighbouring -hostile chief. At 8 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, I was aroused by my gun-carrier, -Mabruki, who handed to me my Ferrara, and -by the Baloch Riza, who reported that the palisade -was surrounded by a host of raging blacks. I went -out into the village, where the guard was running about -in a state of excitement which robbed them of their -wits, and I saw a long dark line of men sitting silently -and peaceably, though armed for fight, outside the -strong stockade. Having caused our cloth to be safely -housed, and given orders to be awakened if work began, -I returned to the hut, determined to take leave of Sultan -Maura and his quarrels on the next day.</p> - -<p>The porters were all gorged with beef, and three -were “stale-drunk” with the consequences of pombe; -yet so anxious were they rendered by the gathering -clouds, and the spitting showers to reach their homes -before the setting in of the “sowing rains,” that my task -was now rather to restrain than to stimulate their ardour: -the moon was resplendent, and had I wished it, they -would have set out at midnight. On the 4th November -we passed through another jungle-patch, to a village in -the fertile slopes of Ukona, where the Cannabis and the -Datura, with its large fetid flowers, disputed the ground -with brinjalls and castor-plants, holcus and panicum: -tobacco grew luxuriantly, and cotton-plots, carefully -hedged round against the cattle, afforded material for -the loom, which now appeared in every village.</p> - -<p>On the next day, we passed out of the fertile slopes -of Ukona, and traversed an open wavy country, -streaked with a thin forest of Mimosa, the Mtogwe or -wood-apple, and a large quadrangular cactus. Beyond -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-319">[319]</span> -this point, a tract of swampy low level led to the -third district of Eastern Unyamwezi, called Kigwa, or -Mkigwa. We found quarters in a Tembe which was -half-burned and partly pulled down, to be re-erected.</p> - -<p>The 6th November saw us betimes in the ill-omened -Forest, that divided us from the Unyanyembe district; -it is a thin growth of gum-trees, mimosas, and bauhinias, -with tiers, earth-waves, and long rolling lines of tawny-yellow -hill—mantled with umbrella-shaped trees, and -sometimes capped with blocks and boulders—extending -to a considerable distance on both sides. The Sultan -of Kigwa, one Manwa, has taken an active part in the -many robberies and murders which have rendered this -forest a place of terror, and the Arabs have hitherto -confined themselves to threats, though a single merchant -complains that his slave-caravans have at different -times lost fifty loads of cloth. Manwa is aided -and counselled by Mansur, a Coast-Arab, who, horse-whipped -out of the society of his countrymen at Kazeh, -for drunken and disorderly conduct, has become a -notorious traitor. Here also Msimbira, a Sultan of -the Wasukuma, or Northern Wanyamwezi, who has an -old and burning hatred against the Arabs, sends his -plundering parties. On the 6th November the Baloch -set out at 1 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, we followed at 2.15 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>: they had been -prevented from obtaining beads on false pretences, consequently -they showed temper, and determined to deny -their escort. Their beards were now in my hand, they could -neither desert nor refuse to proceed, but they desired -to do me a harm, and they did it. During the transit -of the forest, an old porter having imprudently lagged -behind, was clubbed and cruelly bruised by three black -Mohawks, who relieved him of his load, a leathern portmanteau, -containing clothes, umbrellas, books, ink, journals, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-320">[320]</span> -and botanical collections. I afterwards heard that -the highwaymen had divided their spoils in the forest, and -that separating into two parties, they had taken the route -homewards. On the way, however, they were seized by -a plundering expedition sent by Kitambi, the Sultan of -Uyuwwi, a district half a day’s march <span class="smcapall">N.E.</span> from Kazeh. -The delict was flagrant; the head of one robber at once -decorated the main entrance of Kitambi’s village, but the -other two escaped Jeddart-justice with their share of the -plunder to his mortal enemy Msimbira. A present of a -scarlet waistcoat and four domestics recovered our clothes -from Kitambi; but Msimbira, threatening all the penalties -of sorcery, abused, plundered, and expelled Masud -ibn Musallam el Wardi, an old Arab merchant, sent to -him from Unyanyembe for the purpose of recovering -the books, journals, and collections. The perpetual -risk of loss discourages the traveller in these lands; -he never knows at what moment papers which have -cost him months of toil may be scattered to the winds. -As regards collections, future explorers are advised -to abandon the hope of making them on the march upwards, -reserving their labour for the more leisurely -return. The precautions with which I prefaced our -down-march may not be useless as suggestions. My -field and sketch-books were entrusted to an Arab merchant, -who preceded me to Zanzibar; they ran no -other danger except from the carelesness of the Consul -who, unfortunately for me, succeeded Lieut.-Col. -Hamerton. My companion’s maps, papers, and instruments, -were committed to a heavy “petarah,” a deal-box -with pent-lid and hide-bound as a defence against -rain, to be carried “Mziga-ziga,” as the phrase is—suspended -on a pole between the two porters least likely -to desert. I loaded one of the sons of Ramji with -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-321">[321]</span> -an enamelled leathern bag, converted from a dressing-case -into a protection for writing and sketching materials; -and a shooting-bag, hung during the march over -the shoulders of Nasiri, a Coast-Arab youth engaged as -ass-leader at Unyanyembe, contained my vocabularies, -ephemeris, and drawing-books.</p> - -<p>Considering the conduct of the escort, I congratulated -myself upon having passed through the Kigwa forest -without other accident. Two or three days after our -arrival at Kazeh several loads of beads were plundered -from a caravan belonging to Abdullah bin Salih. -Shortly afterwards Msimbira sent a large foraging -party with a view to cutting off the road: they allowed -themselves to be surprised during sleep by Mpagamo’s -men, who slew twenty-five of their number and dispersed -the rest. This accident, however, did not cure -their propensity for pillage; on our return-march, when -halted at a village west of the Kigwa forest, a body of -slaves passed us in hot haste and sore tribulation: they -had that day been relieved by bandits of all their packs.</p> - -<p>Passing from the Kigwa forest and entering the rice-lands -of the Unyanyembe district we found quarters—a -vile cow-house—in a large dirty village called Hanga. -The aspect of the land became prepossessing: the route -lay along a valley bisected by a little rivulet of sweet -water, whose course was marked by a vivid leek-green -line; the slopes were bright with golden stubble upon a -surface of well-hoed field, while to the north and south -ran low and broken cones of granite blocks and slabs, -here naked, there clothed from base to brow with dwarf -parasol-shaped trees, and cactaceæ of gigantic size.</p> - -<p>From this foul village I was urged by Kidogo to conclude -by a tirikeza the last stage that separated the -caravan from Kazeh in Unyanyembe, the place which he -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-322">[322]</span> -and all around him had apparently fixed as the final -bourne of the exploration. But the firmament seemed on -fire, the porters were fagged, and we felt feverish, -briefly, an afternoon’s march was not judged advisable. -To temper, however, the wind of refusal, I served out -to each of the sons of Ramji five rounds of powder -for blowing away on entering the Arab head-quarters. -All of course had that private store which the Arabs -call “El Akibah”—the ending; it is generally stolen -from the master and concealed for emergencies with -cunning care. They had declared their horns to be -empty, and said Kidogo, “Every pedlar fires guns here—shall -a great man creep into his Tembe without a soul -knowing it?”</p> - -<p>On the 7th November, 1857,—the 134th day from -the date of our leaving the coast—after marching at -least 600 miles, we prepared to enter Kazeh, the principal -Bandari of Eastern Unyamwezi, and the capital village -of the Omani merchants. We left Hanga at dawn. -The Baloch were clothed in that one fine suit without -which the Eastern man rarely travels: after a few displays -the dress will be repacked, and finally disposed of -in barter for slaves. About 8 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, we halted for stragglers -at a little village, and when the line of porters becoming -compact began to wriggle, snake-like, its long -length over the plain, with floating flags, booming horns, -muskets ringing like saluting mortars, and an uproar of -voice which nearly drowned the other noises, we made -a truly splendid and majestic first appearance. The -road was lined with people who attempted to vie with -us in volume and variety of sound: all had donned -their best attire, and with such luxury my eyes had -been long unfamiliar. Advancing I saw several Arabs -standing by the wayside, they gave the Moslem salutation -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-323">[323]</span> -and courteously accompanied me for some distance. -Amongst them were the principal merchants, Snay bin -Amir, Said bin Majid, a young and handsome Omani of -noble tribe, Muhinna bin Sulayman, who, despite elephantiasis, -marched every year into Central Africa, and -Said bin Ali el Hinawi, whose short, spare, but well-knit -frame, pale face, small features, snowy beard, and bald -head, surmounted by a red fez, made him the type of -an Arab old man.</p> - -<p>I had directed Said bin Salim to march the caravan -to the Tembe kindly placed at my disposal by Isá bin -Hijji, and the Arabs met at Inenge. The Kirangozi -and the porters, however, led us on by mistake (?) to the -house of “Musa Mzuri”—handsome Moses—an Indian -merchant settled at Unyanyembe for whom I bore an introductory -letter, graciously given by H. H. the Sayyid -Majid of Zanzibar. As Musa was then absent on a -trading-journey to Karagwah, his agent, Snay bin Amir, -a Harisi Arab, came forward to perform the guest-rites, -and led me to the vacant house of Abayd bin Sulayman -who had lately returned to Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>After allowing me, as is the custom, a day to rest and -to dismiss the porters, who at once separated to their -homes, all the Arab merchants, then about a dozen, -made the first ceremonious call, and to them was officially -submitted the circular addressed by the Prince -of Zanzibar to his subjects resident in the African -interior. Contrary to the predictions of others, nothing -could be more encouraging than the reception experienced -from the Omani Arabs; striking, indeed, was -the contrast between the open-handed hospitality and -the hearty good-will of this truly noble race, and the -niggardness of the savage and selfish African—it was -heart of flesh after heart of stone. A goat and a load -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-324">[324]</span> -of the fine white rice grown in the country were the -normal prelude to a visit and to offers of service which -proved something more than a mere <i>vox et præterea nihil</i>. -Whatever I alluded to, onions, plantains, limes, vegetables, -tamarind-cakes, coffee from Karagwah, and -similar articles, only to be found amongst the Arabs, -were sent at once, and the very name of payment would -have been an insult. Snay bin Amir, determining to -surpass all others in generosity, sent two goats to us -and two bullocks to the Baloch and the sons of Ramji: -sixteen years before, he had begun life a confectioner -at Maskat, and now he had risen to be one of the -wealthiest ivory and slave-dealers in Eastern Africa. -As his health forbade him to travel he had become a -general agent at Kazeh, where he had built a village -containing his store-houses and his depôts of cloth -and beads, slaves and ivory. I have to acknowledge -many an obligation to him. Having received a “wakalat-namah,” -or “power of attorney” he enlisted -porters for the caravan to Ujiji. He warehoused my -goods, he disposed of my extra stores, and, finally, he -superintended my preparations for the down-march. -During two long halts at Kazeh he never failed, except -through sickness, to pass the evening with me, and from -his instructive and varied conversation was derived not -a little of the information contained in the following -pages. He had travelled three times between Unyamwezi -and the coast, besides navigating the great Lake -Tanganyika and visiting the northern kingdoms of Karagwah -and Uganda. He first entered the country about -fifteen years ago, when the line of traffic ended at -Usanga and Usenga, and he was as familiar with the -languages, the religion, the manners, and the ethnology -of the African, as with those of his natal Oman. He -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-325">[325]</span> -was a middle-aged man with somewhat of the Quixotic -appearance, high-featured, sharp and sunken-eyed, -almost beardless, light-coloured, tall, gaunt, and large-limbed. -He had read much, and, like an oriental, for -improvement, not only for amusement: he had a wonderful -memory, fine perceptions and passing power of -language. Finally, he was the stuff of which friends -are made; brave as all his race, prudent withal, ready -to perish for the “Pundonor,” and,—such is not often -the case in the East,—he was as honest as he was -honourable.</p> - -<p>Before proceeding with the thread of my narrative, -the reader is requested to bear with the following few -lines upon the subject of Unyanyembe.</p> - -<p>Unyanyembe, the central and principal province of -Unyamwezi, is, like Zungomero in Khutu, the great -Bandari or meeting-place of merchants, and the point of -departure for caravans which thence radiate into the -interior of Central Intertropical Africa. Here the Arab -merchant from Zanzibar meets his compatriot returning -from the Tanganyika Lake and from Uruwwa. Northwards -well-travelled lines diverge to the Nyanza Lake, -and the powerful kingdoms of Karagwah, Uganda, and -Unyoro; from the south Urori and Ubena, Usanga and -Usenga, send their ivory and slaves; and from the south-west -the Rukwa Water, K’hokoro, Ufipa, and Marungu -must barter their valuables for cottons, wires, and beads. -The central position and the comparative safety of Unyanyembe -have made it the head-quarters of the Omani -or pure Arabs, who, in many cases, settle here for years, -remaining in charge of their depôts, whilst their factors -and slaves travel about the country and collect the -items of traffic. At Unyanyembe the merchants expect -some delay. The porters, whether hired upon -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-326">[326]</span> -the coast or at the Tanganyika Lake, here disperse, and -a fresh gang must be collected—no easy task when the -sowing season draws nigh.</p> - -<p>Unyanyembe, which rises about 3480 feet above sea-level, -and lies 356 miles in rectilinear distance from the -eastern coast of Africa, resembles in its physical features -the lands about Tura. The plain or basin of Ihárá, or -Kwihárá, a word synonymous with the “Bondei” or -low-land of the coast, is bounded on the north and -south by low, rolling hills, which converge towards the -west, where, with the characteristically irregular lay of -primitive formations, they are crossed almost at right -angles by the Mfuto chain. The position has been imprudently -chosen by the Arabs; the land suffers from -alternate drought and floods, which render the climate -markedly malarious. The soil is aluminous in the low -levels—a fertile plain of brown earth, with a subsoil of -sand and sandstone, from eight to twelve feet below the -surface; the water is often impregnated with iron, and -the higher grounds are uninhabited tracts covered with -bulky granite-boulders, bushy trees, and thorny shrubs.</p> - -<p>Contrary to what might be expected this “Bandari-district” -contains villages and hamlets, but nothing that -can properly be termed a town. The Mtemi or Sultan -Fundikira, the most powerful of the Wanyamwezi chiefs, -inhabits a Tembe, or square settlement, called “Ititenya,” -on the western slope of the southern hills. A little -colony of Arab merchants has four large houses at a -neighbouring place, “Mawiti.” In the centre of the -plain lies “Kazeh,” another scattered collection of six -large hollow oblongs, with central courts, garden-plots, -store-rooms, and outhouses for the slaves. Around these -nuclei cluster native villages—masses of Wanyamwezi -hovels, which bear the names of their founders.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-327">[327]</span></p> - -<p>This part of Unyanyembe was first colonised about -1852, when the Arabs who had been settled nearly ten -years at Kigandu of P’huge, a district of Usukuma, -one long day’s march north of Kazeh, were induced by -Mpagamo, to aid them against Msimbira, a rival chief, -who defeated and drove them from their former seats. -The details of this event were supplied by an actor in -the scenes; they well illustrate the futility of the -people. The Arabs, after five or six days of skirmishing, -were upon the point of carrying the boma or -palisade of Msimbira, their enemy, when suddenly at -night their slaves, tired of eating beef and raw ground-nuts, -secretly deserted to a man. The masters awaking -in the morning found themselves alone, and made up -their minds for annihilation. Fortunately for them, -the enemy, suspecting an ambuscade, remained behind -their walls, and allowed the merchants to retire without -an attempt to cut them off. Their employer, Mpagamo, -then professed himself unable to defend them; when, -deeming themselves insecure, they abandoned his territory. -Snay bin Amir and Musa Mzuri, the Indian, -settled at Kazeh, then a desert, built houses, sunk wells, -and converted it into a populous place.</p> - -<p>It is difficult to average the present number of Arab -merchants at Unyanyembe who, like the British in -India, visit but do not colonise; they rarely, however, -exceed twenty-five in number; and during the travelling -season, or when a campaign is necessary, they -are sometimes reduced to three or four; they are too -strong to yield without fighting, and are not strong -enough to fight with success. Whenever the people -have mustered courage to try a fall with the strangers, -they have been encouraged to try again. Hitherto -the merchants have been on friendly terms with Fundikira, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-328">[328]</span> -the chief. Their position, however, though -partly held by force of prestige, is precarious. They -are all Arabs from Oman, with one solitary exception, -Musa Mzuri, an Indian Kojah, who is perhaps -in these days the earliest explorer of Unyamwezi. In -July, 1858, an Arab merchant, Silim bin Masud, returning -from Kazeh to his home at Msene, with a slave-porter -carrying a load of cloth, was, though well armed -and feared as a good shot, attacked at a water in a strip -of jungle westward of Mfuto, and speared in the back -by five men, who were afterwards proved to be subjects -of the Sultan Kasanyare, a Mvinza. The Arabs organised -a small expedition to revenge the murder, -marched out with 200 or 300 slave-musketeers, devoured -all the grain and poultry in the country, and -returned to their homes without striking a blow, because -each merchant-militant wished his fellows to -guarantee his goods or his life for the usual diyat, or -blood-money, 800 dollars. This impunity of crime will -probably lead to other outrages.</p> - -<p>The Arabs live comfortably, and even splendidly, at -Unyanyembe. The houses, though single-storied, are -large, substantial, and capable of defence. Their gardens -are extensive and well planted; they receive regular -supplies of merchandise, comforts, and luxuries from -the coast; they are surrounded by troops of concubines -and slaves, whom they train to divers crafts and callings: -rich men have riding-asses from Zanzibar, and -even the poorest keep flocks and herds. At Unyanyembe, -as at Msene, and sometimes at Ujiji, there are -itinerant fundi, or slave-artisans—blacksmiths, tinkers, -masons, carpenters, tailors, potters, and rope-makers,—who -come up from the coast with Arab caravans. -These men demand exorbitant wages. A broken -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-329">[329]</span> -matchlock can be repaired, and even bullets cast; -good cord is purchaseable; and for tinning a set of -seventeen pots and plates five shukkah merkani are -charged. A pair of Arab stirrups are made up for one -shukkah besides the material, and chains for animals at -about double the price. Fetters and padlocks, however, -are usually imported by caravans. Pack-saddles are -brought from Zanzibar: in caravans a man may sometimes -be found to make them. There is, moreover, -generally a pauper Arab who for cloth will make up -a ridge-tent; and as most civilised Orientals can use -a needle, professional tailors are little required. Provisions -are cheap and plentiful; the profits are large; -and the Arab, when wealthy, is disposed to be hospitable -and convivial. Many of the more prosperous merchants -support their brethren who have been ruined by the -chances and accidents of trade. When a stranger appears -amongst them, he receives the “hishmat l’il -gharíb,” or the guest-welcome, in the shape of a goat -and a load of white rice; he is provided with lodgings, -and is introduced by the host to the rest of the society -at a general banquet. The Arabs’ great deficiency is -the want of some man to take the lead. About fifteen -years ago Abdullah bin Salim, a merchant from Zanzibar, -with his body of 200 armed slaves, kept the -whole community in subjection: since his death, in -1852, the society has suffered from all the effects of disunion -where union is most required. The Arab, however, -is even in Africa a Pantisocrat, and his familiarity -with the inferior races around him leads to the proverbial -consequences.</p> - -<p>The houses of the Arabs are Moslem modifications -of the African Tembe, somewhat superior in strength -and finish. The deep and shady outside-verandah, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-330">[330]</span> -supported by stout uprights, shelters a broad bench of -raised earthwork, where men sit to enjoy the morning -cool and the evening serenity, and where they pray, -converse, and transact their various avocations. A -portcullis-like door, composed of two massive planks, -with chains thick as a ship’s cable—a precaution rendered -necessary by the presence of wild slaves—leads -into the barzah, or vestibule. The only furniture is a -pair of clay benches extending along the right and left -sides, with pillow-shaped terminations of the same -material; over these, when visitors are expected, rush -mats and rugs are spread. From this barzah a passage, -built at the angle proper to baffle the stranger’s curiosity, -leads into the interior, a hollow square or oblong, -with the several rooms opening upon a courtyard, -which, when not built round, is completely closed by a -“liwan”—a fence of small tree-trunks or reeds. The -apartments have neither outward doors nor windows: -small bull’s-eyes admit the air, and act as loop-holes in -case of need. The principal room on the master’s side -of the house has a bench of clay, and leads into a dark -closet where stores and merchandise are placed. There -are separate lodgings for the harem, and the domestic -slaves live in barracoons or in their own outhouses. -This form of Tembe is perhaps the dullest habitation -ever invented by man. The exterior view is carefully -removed from sight, and the dull, dirty courtyard, often -swamped during the rains, is ever before the tenant’s -eyes; the darkness caused by want of windows painfully -contrasts with the flood of sunshine pouring in through -the doors, and at night no number of candles will light -up its gloomy walls of grey or reddish mud. The -breeze is either excluded by careless frontage, or the -high and chilling winds pour in like torrents; the roof -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-331">[331]</span> -is never water-tight, and the walls and rafters harbour -hosts of scorpions and spiders, wasps and cockroaches. -The Arabs, however, will expend their time and trouble -in building rather than trust their goods in African -huts, exposed to thieves and to the frequent fires which -result from barbarous carelessness: everywhere, when a -long halt is in prospect, they send their slaves for wood -to the jungle, and superintend the building of a spacious -Tembe. They neglect, however, an important precaution, -a sleeping-room raised above the mean level of malaria.</p> - -<p>Another drawback to the Arab’s happiness is the -failure of his constitution: a man who escapes illness -for two successive months boasts of the immunity; and, -as in Egypt, no one enjoys robust health. The older -residents have learned to moderate their appetites. -They eat but twice a-day—after sunrise, and at noon—the -midday meal concluded, they confine themselves to -chewing tobacco or the dried coffee of Karagwah. They -avoid strong meats, especially beef and game, which are -considered heating and bilious, remaining satisfied with -light dishes, omelets and pillaus, harísah, firni, and -curded milk, and the less they eat the more likely they -are to escape fever. Harisáh, in Kisawahili “boko-boko,” -is the roast beef—the <i>plat de résistance</i>—of the -Eastern and African Arab. It is a kind of pudding -made with finely shredded meat, boiled with flour of -wheat, rice, or holcus, to the consistence of a thick -paste, and eaten with honey or sugar. Firni, an Indian -word, is synonymous with the muhallibah of Egypt, a -thin jelly of milk-and-water, honey, rice-flour, and spices, -which takes the place of our substantial northern rice-pudding. -The general health has been improved by the -importation from the coast of wheat, and a fine white -rice, instead of the red aborigen of the country, of various -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-332">[332]</span> -fruits, plantains, limes, and papaws; and of vegetables, -brinjalls, cucumbers, and tomatos, which relieve -the indigenous holcus and maize, manioc and sweet-potato, -millet and phaseoli, sesamum and ground-nuts. -They declare to having derived great benefit from the -introduction of onions,—an antifebral, which flourishes -better in Central than in Maritime Africa. The onion, -so thriving in South Africa, rapidly degenerates upon -the island of Zanzibar into a kind of houseleek. In -Unyamwezi it is of tolerable size and flavour. It enters -into a variety of dishes, the most nauseous being probably -the sugared onion-omelet. In consequence of general -demand, onions are expensive in the interior; an indigo-dyed -shukkah will purchase little more than a pound. -When the bulbs fail, the leaves chopped into thin circles -and fried in clarified butter with salt, are eaten as -a relish with meat. They are also inserted into marak -or soups, to disguise the bitter and rancid taste of -stale ghee. Onions may be sown at all seasons except -during the wet monsoon, when they are liable to decay. -The Washenzi have not yet borrowed this excellent -and healthy vegetable from the Arabs. Garlic has -also been tried in Unyanyembe, but with less success; -moreover, it is considered too heating for daily -use. As might be expected, however, amongst a floating -population with many slaves, foreign fruits and -vegetables are sometimes allowed to die out. Thus -some enterprising merchant introduced into Unyanyembe -the date and the mkungu, bidam, or almond-tree -of the coast: the former, watered once every third -day, promised to bear fruit, when, in the absence of -the master, the Wanyamwezi cut up the young shoots -into walking-sticks. Sugar is imported: the water-wanting -cane will not thrive in arid Unyanyembe, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-333">[333]</span> -honey must be used as a succedaneum. Black pepper, -universally considered cooling by Orientals, is much -eaten with curry-stuffs and other highly-seasoned -dishes, whereas the excellent chillies and bird-pepper, -which here grow wild, are shunned for their heating -properties. Butter and ghee are made by the wealthy; -humbler houses buy the article, which is plentiful and -good, from the Wanyamwezi. Water is the usual -beverage. Some Arabs drink togwa, a sweet preparation -of holcus; and others, debauchees, indulge in the -sour and intoxicating pombe, or small-beer.</p> - -<p>The market at Unyanyembe varies greatly according -to the quantity of the rains. As usual in barbarous -societies, a dry season, or a few unexpected -caravans, will raise the prices, even to trebling; and -the difference of value in grain before and after the -harvest will be double or half of what it is at par. The -price of provisions in Unyamwezi has increased inordinately -since the Arabs have settled in the land. Formerly -a slave-boy could be purchased for five fundo, or -fifty strings of beads: the same article would now fetch -three hundred. A fundo of cheap white porcelain-beads -would procure a milch cow; and a goat, or ten hens its -equivalent, was to be bought for one khete. In plentiful -years Unyanyembe is, however, still the cheapest country -in East Africa, and, as usual in cheap countries, it -induces the merchant to spend more than in the dearest. -Paddy of good quality, when not in demand, sells at -twenty kayla (120lbs.) for one shukkah of American domestics; -maize, at twenty-five; and sorghum, here the -staff of life, when in large stock, at sixty. A fat bullock -may be bought for four domestics, a cow costs from -six to twelve, a sheep or a goat from one to two. -A hen, or its equivalent, four or five eggs, is worth -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-334">[334]</span> -one khete of coral or pink porcelain beads. One fundo -of the same will purchase a large bunch of plantains, -with which máwá or plantain-wine, and siki or vinegar -are made; and the Wanyamwezi will supply about a -pint of milk every morning at the rate of one shukkah -per mensem. A kind of mud-fish is caught by the -slaves in the frequent pools which, during the cold -season, dot the course of the Gombe Nullah, lying three -miles north of Kazeh; and return-caravans often bring -with them stores of the small fry, called Kashwá or -Daga’a, from the Tanganyika Lake.</p> - -<p>From Unyanyembe twenty marches, which are seldom -accomplished under twenty-five days, conduct the traveller -to Ujiji, upon the Tanganyika. Of these the -fifth station is Msene, the great Bandari of Western -Unyamwezi. It is usually reached in eight days; and -the twelfth is the Malagarazi River, the western limit -of the fourth region.</p> - -<p>The traveller, by means of introductory letters to the -Doyen of the Arab merchants at Kazeh, can always -recruit his stock of country currency,—cloth, beads, and -wire,—his requirements of powder and ball, and his supply -of spices, comforts, and drugs, without which travel -in these lands usually ends fatally. He will pay, it is -true, about five times their market-value at Zanzibar: -sugar, for instance, sells at its weight in ivory, or nearly -one-third more than its weight in beads. But though -the prices are exorbitant they preserve the buyer from -greater evils, the expense of porterage, the risk of loss, -and the trouble and annoyance of personally superintending -large stores in a land where “vir” and “fur” -are synonymous terms.</p> - -<p>And now comfortably housed within a stone-throw of -my new friend Shaykh Snay bin Amir, I bade adieu for -a time to the march, the camp, and the bivouac. Perhaps -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-335">[335]</span> -the reader may not be unwilling to hear certain details -concerning the “road and the inn” in Eastern Africa; -he is familiar from infancy with the Arab Kafilah and -its host of litters and camels, horses, mules, and asses, -but the porter-journeys in Eastern Africa have as yet -escaped the penman’s pen.</p> - -<p>Throughout Eastern Africa made roads, the first test -of progress in a people, are unknown. The most frequented -routes are foot-tracks like goat-walks, one to -two spans broad, trodden down during the travelling -season by man and beast, and during the rains the path -in African parlance “dies,” that is to say, it is overgrown -with vegetation. In open and desert places four -or five lines often run parallel for short distances. In -jungly countries they are mere tunnels in thorns and -under branchy trees, which fatigue the porter by catching -his load. Where fields and villages abound they -are closed with rough hedges, horizontal tree-trunks, and -even rude stockades, to prevent trespassing and pilferage. -Where the land is open, an allowance of one-fifth -must be made for winding: in closer countries -this must be increased to two-fifths or to one-half, and -the traveller must exercise his judgment in distributing -the marches between these two extremes. In Uzaramo -and K’hutu the tracks run through tall grasses, which -are laid by their own weight after rains, and are burned -down during the hot seasons: they often skirt cultivated -lands, which they are not allowed to enter, miry swamps -are spanned, rivers breast-deep, with muddy bottoms and -steep slippery banks, are forded, whilst deep holes, the -work of rodents and insects, render them perilous to -ridden cattle. In Usagara the gradients are surmounted -either by beds of mountain torrents or by breasting -steep and stony hills, mere ladders of tree-root and -loose stones: laden animals frequently cannot ascend -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-336">[336]</span> -or descend them. The worst paths in this region are -those which run along the banks of the many streams -and rivulets, and which traverse the broken and thorny -ground at the base of the hills. The former are -“thieves’ roads,” choked with long succulent grass -springing from slushy mud; the latter are continued -rises and falls, with a small but ragged and awkward -watercourse at every bottom. From Usagara to Western -Unyamwezi the roads lead through thick thorn-jungle, -and thin forests of trees blazed or barked along the -track, without hill, but interrupted during the rains by -swamps and bogs. They are studded with sign-posts, -broken pots and gourds, horns and skulls of game and -cattle, imitations of bows and arrows pointing towards -water, and heads of holcus. Sometimes a young tree -is bent across the path and provided with a cross-bar; -here is a rush gateway like the yoke of the ancients, or -a platform of sleepers supported by upright trunks; there -a small tree felled and replanted, is tipped with a crescent -of grass twisted round with bark, and capped with huge -snail shells, and whatever barbarous imagination may -suggest. Where many roads meet, those to be avoided -are barred with a twig or crossed by a line drawn with -the foot. In Western Uvinza and near Ujiji, the paths -are truly vile, combining all the disadvantages of bog -and swamp, river and rivulet, thorn-bush and jungle, -towering grasses, steep inclines, riddled surface, and -broken ground. The fords on the whole line are temporary -as to season, but permanent in place: they are rarely -more than breast-deep; and they average in dry weather -a cubit and a half, the fordable medium. There are -but two streams, the Mgeta and the Ruguvu, which are -bridged over by trees; both could be forded higher up -the bed; and on the whole route there is but one river, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-337">[337]</span> -the Malagarazi, which requires a ferry during the dry -season. Cross roads abound in the populous regions. -Where they exist not, the jungle is often impassable, -except to the elephant and the rhinoceros: a company -of pioneers would in some places require a week to cut -their way for a single march through the network -of thorns and the stockade of rough tree-trunks. The -directions issued to travellers about drawing off their -parties for safety at night to rising grounds, will not -apply to Eastern Africa; it would be far easier to dig -for themselves abodes under the surface.</p> - -<p>It is commonly asserted in the island of Zanzibar -that there are no caravans in these regions. The dictum -is true if the term be limited to the hosts of -camels and mules that traverse the deserts and the -mountains of Arabia and Persia. It is erroneous if -applied to a body of men travelling for commercial -purposes. From time immemorial the Wanyamwezi -have visited the road to the coast, and though wars and -blood-feuds may have temporarily closed one line, -another necessarily opened itself. Amongst a race so -dependent for comfort and pleasure upon trade, commerce, -like steam, cannot be compressed beyond a certain -point. Until a few years ago, when the extension -of traffic induced the country people to enlist as porters, -all merchants traversed these regions with servile gangs -hired on the coast or island of Zanzibar, a custom still -prevailing on the northern and southern routes from -the sea-board to the lakes of Nyanza and Nyassa. Porterage, -on the long and toilsome journey, is now considered -by the Wanyamwezi a test of manliness, as the -Englishman deems a pursuit or a profession necessary -to clear him from the charge of effeminacy. The -children imbibe the desire with their milk, and at six -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-338">[338]</span> -or seven years old they carry a little tusk on their -shoulders—instinctive porters, as pointer-pups are -hereditary pointers. By premature toil their shinbones -are sometimes bowed to the front like those of -animals too early ridden. “He sits in hut egg-hatching,” -is their proverbial phrase to express one more -<span class="nowrap">elegant—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Home-keeping youth have ever homely wits.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">And they are ever quoting the adage that men who -travel not are void of understanding—the African -equivalent of what was said by the European sage: -“The world is a great book, of which those who never -leave home read but a page.” Against this traditional -tendency reasons of mere hire and rations, though apparently -weighty, are found wanting. The porter will -bargain over his engagement to the utmost bead, saying -that all men are bound to make the best conditions for -themselves: yet, after two or three months of hard -labour, if he chance upon a caravan returning to his -home, a word from a friend, acting upon his innate debility -of purpose, will prevail upon him to sacrifice by -desertion all the fruits of his toil. On these occasions -the porters are carefully watched; open desertion would, -it is true, be condemned by the general voice, yet no -merchant can so win the affections of his men that some -will not at times disappear. Until the gangs have left -their homes far behind, their presence seems to hang by -a thread; at the least pretext they pack up their goods -and vanish in a mass. When approaching their settlements—at -the frontier districts of Tura and Mfuto, for -instance—their cloth and hire are taken from them, -packed in the employer’s bales, and guarded by armed -slaves, especially at night, and on the line of march. -Yet these precautions frequently fail, and, once beyond -the camp limits, it is vain to seek the fugitive. In the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-339">[339]</span> -act of desertion they show intelligence: they seldom -run away when caravans first meet, lest their employer -should halt and recover them by main force, and, except -where thieves and wild beasts are unknown, they -will not fly by night. The porter, however, has one -point of honour; he leaves his pack behind him. The -slave, on the other hand, certainly robs his employer -when he runs away, and this, together with his unwillingness -to work and the trouble and annoyance which -he causes to his owner, counterbalances his superior -dexterity and intelligence.</p> - -<p>Caravans, called in Kisawahili safári (from the Arab -safar, a journey) and by the African rugendo or lugendo, -“a going,” are rarely wanting on the main trunk-lines. -The favourite seasons for the upward-bound are the -months in which the greater and the lesser Masika or -tropical rains conclude—in June and September, for -instance, on the coast—when water and provisions are -plentiful. Those who delay till the dry weather has -set in must expect hardships on the march; the expense -of rations will be doubled and trebled, and the -porters will frequently desert. The down-caravans set -out in all seasons except the rainy; it is difficult to -persuade the people of Unyanyembe to leave their fields -between the months of October and May. They will -abandon cultivation to the women and children, and -merrily take the footpath way if laden with their own -ivory, but from the merchant they will demand exorbitant -wages, and even then they will hesitate to engage -themselves.</p> - -<p>Porterage varies with every year and in every caravan. -It knows but two limits: the interest of the -employer to disburse as little as possible by taking -every advantage of the necessities of his employé, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-340">[340]</span> -the desire of the employé to extract as much as he -can by presuming upon the wants of his employer. -In some years there is a glut of porters on the coast; -when they are rare quarrels take place between the -several settlements, each attempting a monopoly of -enlistment to the detriment of its neighbours, and a -little blood is sometimes let. When the Wanyamwezi -began to carry, they demanded for a journey from -the coast to their own country six to nine dollars’ -worth of domestics, coloured cloths, brass-wires, and -the pigeon’s-egg bead called sungomaji. The rate of -porterage then declined; the increase of traffic, however, -has of late years greatly increased it. In 1857 it -was 10 dollars, and it afterwards rose to 12 dollars per -porter. In this sum rations are not included; the -value of these—which by ancient custom are fixed at 1 -kubabah (about 1·5 lbs.) of grain per diem, or, that -failing, of manioc, sweet potatoes, and similar articles, -with the present of a bullock at the frontier—is subject -to greater variations, and is even less reducible to an -average than the porter’s pay. It is needless to say -that the down-journey is less expensive than the up-march, -as the carriers rely upon a fresh engagement on -the coast. The usual hire from Unyanyembe would be -nine cloths, payable on arrival at the sea-port, where -each is worth 25 cents, or about 1 shilling. The Arabs -roughly calculate—the errors balancing one another—that, -rations included, the hire of a porter from the -coast to the Tanganyika Lake and back amounts to a -total of 20 dollars = 4<i>l.</i> 3<i>s.</i> From the coast, Wanyamwezi -porters will not engage themselves for a -journey westward of their own country; at Unyanyembe -they break up, and a fresh gang must be enlisted -for a march to the Tanganyika or to the Nyanza Lake. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-341">[341]</span> -It is impossible to average the numbers of an East -African caravan, which varies from half a dozen to 200 -porters, under a single Mundewa or merchant. In -dangerous places travellers halt till they form an -imposing force; 500 is a frequent figure, and even -bodies of 1000 men are not rare. The only limit to -the gathering is the incapability of the country to fill -more than a certain number of mouths. The larger -caravans, however, are slow and cumbrous, and in places -they exhaust the provision of water.</p> - -<p>Caravans in East Africa are of three kinds. The -most novel and characteristic are those composed only -of Wanyamwezi; secondly, are the caravans directed -and escorted by Wasawahili freemen or fundi (slave -fattori), commissioned by their patrons; and, lastly, -those commanded by Arabs.</p> - -<p>The porter, called pagazi or fagazi—the former is -the African, the latter the ridiculous Arabised form of -the word—corresponds with the carregador of West -Africa. The Wanyamwezi make up large parties of -men, some carrying their own goods, others hired by -petty proprietors, who for union and strength elect a -head Mtongi, Ras Kafilah, or leader. The average -number of these parties that annually visit the coast is -far greater than those commanded by stranger-merchants. -In the Unyamwezi caravan there is no desertion, -no discontent, and, except in certain spots, little -delay. The porters trudge from sunrise to 10 or 11 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, -and sometimes, though rarely, they will travel twice a -day, resting only during the hours of heat. They work -with a will, carrying uncomplainingly huge tusks, some -so heavy that they must be lashed to a pole between -two men—a contrivance technically called mziga-ziga. -Their shoulders are often raw with the weight, their -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-342">[342]</span> -feet are sore, and they walk half or wholly naked to -save their cloth for displays at home. They ignore -tent or covering, and sleep on the ground; their only -supplies are their country’s produce, a few worn-down -hoes, intended at times to purchase a little grain or to -be given as blackmail for sultans, and small herds of -bullocks and heifers that serve for similar purposes if -not lost, with characteristic African futility, upon the -road. Those who most consult comfort carry, besides -their loads and arms, a hide for bedding, an earthen -cooking pot, a stool, a kilindo or bark-box containing -cloth and beads, and perhaps a small gourd full of ghee. -They sometimes suffer severely from exposure to a -climate which forbids long and hard work upon short -and hard fare. Malignant epidemics, especially small-pox, -often attack caravans as they approach the coast; -generally, however, though somewhat lean and haggard, -the porters appear in better condition than might be -expected. The European traveller will repent accompanying -these caravans: as was said of a similar race, -the Indians of Guiana, “they will not deviate three -steps from the regular path.”</p> - -<p>Porters engaged by Arab Mtajiri or Mundewa—the -former is the Kisawahili, the latter is the Inner African -term for a merchant or travelling trader—are known by -their superior condition; they eat much more, work much -less, and give far greater trouble to their commanders. -They expend part of the cloth and beads which they -have received as hire to procure for themselves occasional -comforts; and on the down-journey they take with -them a few worn-down hoes to retain the power of -desertion without starving. The self-willed wretches -demean themselves with the coolest impudence; reply imperiously, -lord it over their leaders, regulate the marches -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-343">[343]</span> -and the halts, and though they work they never work -without loud complaints and open discontent. Rations -are a perpetual source of heart-burning: stinted at -home to a daily mess of grain-porridge, the porters on -the line of march devote, in places where they can presume, -all their ingenuity to extort as much food as -possible from their employers. At times they are -seized with a furore for meat. When a bullock is -slaughtered, the Kirangozi or guide claims the head, -leaving the breast and loin to the Mtongi or principal -proprietor, and the remainder is equally portioned -amongst the khambi or messes into which the gang -divides itself. As has been remarked, the Arab merchant, -next to the Persian, is the most luxurious -traveller in the East; a veteran of the way, he well -knows the effects of protracted hardship and scarcity -upon a wayfarer’s health. The European traveller, -however, will not enjoy the companionship of the Arab -caravan, which marches by instinct rather than by -reason. It begins by dawdling over the preliminaries; -it then pushes hurriedly onwards till arrested by epidemic -or desertion; and finally it lingers over the end -of the journey, thus loosing time twice. This style of -progress is fatal to observation; moreover, none but a -special caravan, consisting of slaves hired for the purpose -in the island of Zanzibar or on the coast, and -accompanied by their own Ahbab or patron—without -whom they will obey no employer, however generous -or energetic—will enable the explorer to strike into an -unbeaten path, or to progress a few miles beyond the -terminus of a main trunk-road. The most enterprising -of porters will desert, leaving the caravan-leader like -a water-logged ship.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-344">[344]</span></p> - -<p>Between these two extremes are the trading parties -directed by the Wasawahili, the Wamrima, and the slave -Fundi—the Pombeiros of West Africa—kindred souls -with the Pagazi, understanding their languages and -familiar with their habits, manners, and customs. -These “Safari” are neither starved like those composed -of Wanyamwezi, nor pampered like those headed by -the Arabs. There is less fatigue during the march, -and more comfort at the halting-place, consequently -there are fewer cases of disease and death. These semi-African -Mtongi, hating and jealousing Arabs and all -strangers, throw every obstacle in their way, spread -reports concerning their magical and malevolent powers -which are dangerous amongst the more superstitious -barbarians, they offer a premium for desertion, and in -fine, they labour hard though fruitlessly, to retain their -ancient monopoly of the profits derived from the interior.</p> - -<p>I will now describe the day’s march and the halt of -the East African caravan.</p> - -<p>At 3 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, all is silent as the tomb, even the Mnyamwezi -watchman nods over his fire. About an hour -later the red-faced apoplectic chanticleer—there are -sometimes half-a-dozen of them—the alarum of the -caravan, and a prime favourite with the slaves and -porter, who carry him on their banghy-poles by turns, -and who drench him with water when his beak opens -under the sun,—flaps his wings and crows a loud -salutation to the dawn: he is answered by every cock and -cockerel within ear-shot. I have been lying awake for -some time, longing for the light, and when in health, -for an early breakfast. At the first paling of the East, -the torpid Goanese are called up to build a fire, they -tremble with the cold—thermometrically averaging -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-345">[345]</span> -60° F.—and they hurry to bring food. Appetite somewhat -difficult at this hour, demands a frequent change -of diet, we drink tea or coffee when procurable, or we eat -rice-milk and cakes raised with whey, or a porridge not -unlike water-gruel. Whilst we are so engaged, the -Baloch chanting the spiritual songs which follow -prayers, squat round a cauldron placed upon a roaring -fire, and fortify the inner man with boiled meat and -grain, with toasted pulse and tobacco.</p> - -<p>About such time, 5 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, the camp is fairly roused, -and a little low chatting becomes audible. This is a -critical moment. The porters have promised overnight, -to start early, and to make a long wholesome march. -But, “uncertain, coy, and hard to please,” they change -their minds like the fair sex, the cold morning makes -them unlike the men of the warm evening, and perhaps -one of them has fever. Moreover, in every caravan -there is some lazy, loud-lunged, contradictory and unmanageable -fellow, whose sole delight is to give trouble. -If no march be in prospect, they sit obstinately before -the fire warming their hands and feet, inhaling the -smoke with everted heads, and casting quizzical looks -at their fuming and fidgety employer. If all be unanimous, -it is vain to attempt them, even soft sawder is -but “throwing comfits to cows.” We return to our -tent. If, however, there be a division, a little active -stimulating will cause a march. Then a louder conversation -leads to cries of Kwecha! Kwecha! Pakia! -Pakia! Hopa! Hopa! Collect! pack! set out! Safari! -Safari leo! a journey, a journey to-day! and some -peculiarly African boasts, P’hunda! Ngami! I am an -ass! a camel! accompanied by a roar of bawling voices, -drumming, whistling, piping, and the braying of Barghumi, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-346">[346]</span> -or horns. The sons of Ramji come in a body -to throw our tents, and to receive small burdens, which, -if possible, they shirk; sometimes Kidogo does me the -honour to inquire the programme of the day. The -porters, however, hug the fire till driven from it, when -they unstack the loads piled before our tents and pour -out of the camp or village. My companion and I, -when well enough to ride, mount our asses, led by the -gunbearers, who carry all necessaries for offence and defence; -when unfit for exercise, we are borne in hammocks, -slung to long poles, and carried by two men at a time. -The Baloch tending their slaves hasten off in a straggling -body, thinking only of escaping an hour’s sun. -The Jemadar, however, is ordered to bring up the rear -with Said bin Salim, who is cold and surly, abusive -and ready with his rattan. Four or five packs have -been left upon the ground by deserters, or shirkers, who -have started empty-handed, consequently our Arab -either double-loads more willing men, or persuades the -sons of Ramji to carry a small parcel each, or that -failing, he hires from some near village a few porters -by the day. This, however, is not easy, the beads have -been carried off, and the most tempting promises without -pre-payment, have no effect upon the African mind.</p> - -<p>When all is ready, the Kirangozi or Mnyamwezi -guide rises and shoulders his load, which is ever one of -the lightest. He deliberately raises his furled flag, a -plain blood-red, the sign of a caravan from Zanzibar, -much tattered by the thorns, and he is followed by a -privileged Pagazi, tom-toming upon a kettle-drum -much resembling a European hour-glass. The dignitary -is robed in the splendour of scarlet broadcloth, a -narrow piece about six feet long, with a central aperture -for the neck, and with streamers dangling before and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-347">[347]</span> -behind; he also wears some wonderful head-dress, the -spoils of a white and black “tippet-monkey,” or the -barred skin of a wild cat, crowning the head, bound -round the throat, hanging over the shoulders, and -capped with a tall cup-shaped bunch of owl’s feathers, -or the gorgeous plumes of the crested crane. His insignia -of office are the kipungo or fly-flapper, the tail of some -beast which he affixes to his person as if it were a -natural growth, the kome, or hooked iron spit, decorated -with a central sausage of parti-coloured beads, and -a variety of oily little gourds containing snuff, simples, -and “medicine,” for the road, strapped round his waist. -He leads the caravan, and the better to secure the obedience -of his followers he has paid them in a sheep or a -goat, the value of which he will recover by fees and superiority -of rations—the head of every animal slaughtered -in camp and the presents at the end of the journey are -exclusively his. A man guilty of preceding the Kirangozi -is liable to fine, and an arrow is extracted from his -quiver to substantiate his identity at the end of the -march. Pouring out of the kraal in a disorderly mob, -the porters stack their goods at some tree distant but a -few hundred yards, and allow the late, the lazy, and the -invalids to join the main body. Generally at this conjuncture -the huts are fired by neglect or mischievousness. -The khambi, especially in winter, burns like tinder, and -the next caravan will find a heap of hot ashes and a -few charred sticks still standing. Yet by way of contrast -the Pagazi will often take the trouble to denote -by the usual signposts to those following them that -water is at hand. Here and there a little facetiousness -appears in these erections, a mouth is cut in the tree-trunk -to admit a bit of wood, simulating a pipe, with -other representations still more waggish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-348">[348]</span></p> - -<p>After the preliminary halt, the caravan, forming into -the order of march, winds, like a monstrous land-serpent, -over hill, dale, and plain. The Kirangozi is followed -by an Indian file, those nearest to him, the grandees -of the gang, are heavily laden with ivories: when the -weight of the tusk is inordinate, it is tied to a pole and -is carried palanquin-fashion by two men. A large cowbell, -whose music rarely ceases on the march, is attached -to the point which is to the fore; to the bamboo behind -is lashed the porter’s private baggage,—his earthen -cooking-pot, his water-gourd, his sleeping-mat, and his -other necessaries. The ivory-carriers are succeeded by -the bearers of cloth and beads, each man, poising upon -either shoulder, and sometimes raising upon the head -for rest, packs that resemble huge bolsters, six feet long -by two in diameter, cradled in sticks, which generally -have a forked projection for facility of stacking and -reshouldering the load. The sturdiest fellows are -usually the lightest loaded: in Eastern Africa, as elsewhere, -the weakest go to the wall. The maximum of -burden may be two farasilah, or seventy pounds, avoirdupois. -Behind the cloth bearers straggles a long line -of porters and slaves, laden with the lighter stuff, -rhinoceros-teeth, hides, salt-cones, tobacco, brass wire, -iron hoes, boxes and bags, beds and tents, pots and -water-gourds, mats and private stores. With the Pagazi, -but in separate parties, march the armed slaves, -who are never seen to quit their muskets, the women, -and the little toddling children, who rarely fail to carry -something, be it only of a pound weight, and the asses -neatly laden with saddle-bags of giraffe or buffalo-hide. -A “Mganga” almost universally accompanies the caravan, -not disdaining to act as a common porter. The -“parson” not only claims, in virtue of his sacred calling, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-349">[349]</span> -the lightest load; he is also a stout, smooth, and sleek-headed -man, because, as usual with his class, he eats much -and he works little. The rear is brought up by the -master or the masters of the caravan, who often remains -far behind for the convenience of walking and to -prevent desertion.</p> - -<p>All the caravan is habited in its worst attire, the -East African derides those who wear upon a journey -the cloth which should be reserved for display at -home. If rain fall they will doff the single goat-skin -hung round their sooty limbs, and, folding it up, -place it between the shoulder and the load. When -grain is served out for some days’ march, each porter -bears his posho or rations fastened like a large “bussel” -to the small of his back. Upon this again, he -sometimes binds, with its legs projecting outwards, -the three-legged stool, which he deems necessary to -preserve him from the danger of sitting upon the -damp ground. As may be imagined, the barbarians -have more ornament than dress. Some wear the -ngala, a strip of zebra’s mane bound round the head -with the bristly parti-coloured, hair standing out like a -saint’s “gloria:” others prefer a long bit of stiffened -ox-tail, rising like a unicorn’s horn, at least a foot -above the forehead. Other ornaments are the skins of -monkeys and ocelots, rouleaus and fillets of white, blue, -or scarlet cloth, and huge bunches of ostrich, crane, -and jay’s feathers, crowning the head like the tufts of -certain fowls. Their arms are decorated with massive -ivory bracelets, heavy bangles of brass or copper, and -thin circlets of the same metal, beads in strings and -bands, adorn their necks, and small iron bells, a -“knobby” decoration, whose incessant tinkling harmonises, -in African ears, with the regular chime-like “Ti-ti! -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-350">[350]</span> -Ti-ti! tang!” of the tusk-bells, and the loud broken -“Wa-ta-ta!” of the horns, are strapped below the knee -or round the ankle by the more aristocratic. All carry -some weapon; the heaviest armed have a bow and a -bark-quiver full of arrows, two or three long spears -and assegais, a little battle-axe borne on the shoulder, -and the sime or dudgeon.</p> - -<p>The normal recreations of a march are, whistling, -singing, shouting, hooting, horning, drumming, imitating -the cries of birds and beasts, repeating words which -are never used except on journeys—a “chough’s language, -gabble enough and good enough”—and abundant -squabbling; in fact perpetual noise which the ear -however, soon learns to distinguish for the hubbub of a -halt. The uproar redoubles near a village, where the -flag is unfurled and where the line lags to display -itself. All give vent to loud shouts, “Hopa! hopa!—go -on! go on! Mgogolo!—a stoppage! Food! food! -Don’t be tired! The kraal is here—home is near! -Hasten, kirangozi—Oh! We see our mothers! We go -to eat!” On the road it is considered prudent as well as -pleasurable to be as loud as possible, in order to impress -upon plunderers an exaggerated idea of the caravan’s -strength; for equally good reasons silence is recommended -in the kraal. When threatened with attack -and no ready escape suggests itself, the porters ground -their loads and prepare for action. It is only self-interest -that makes them brave; I have seen a small cow, -trotting up with tail erect, break a line of 150 men -carrying goods not their own. If a hapless hare or -antelope cross the path, every man casts his pack, -brandishes his spear, and starts in pursuit; the animal -never running straight is soon killed, and torn limb -from limb, each negroid helluo devouring his morsel -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-351">[351]</span> -raw. Sometimes a sturdy fellow “renowns it” by -carrying his huge burden round and round, like a horse -being ringed, and starts off at full speed. When two bodies -meet, that commanded by an Arab claims the road. If -both are Wanyamwezi, violent quarrels ensue, but fatal -weapons, which are too ready at hand, are turned to -more harmless purposes, the bow and spear being used -as whip and cudgel. These affrays are not rancorous -till blood is shed. Few tribesmen are less friendly for so -trifling an affair as a broken head; even a slight cut or -a shallow stab is little thought of; but, if returned with -interest, great loss of life may arise from the slenderest -cause. When friendly caravans meet, the two Kirangozis -sidle up with a stage pace, a stride, and a stand, -and with sidelong looks prance till arrived within distance; -then suddenly and simultaneously “ducking,” -like boys “giving a back,” they come to logger-heads -and exchange a butt violently as fighting rams. Their -example is followed by all with a rush and a crush, -which might be mistaken for the beginning of a faction, -but it ends, if there be no bad blood, in shouts of -laughter. The weaker body, however, must yield precedence -and offer a small present as blackmail.</p> - -<p>About 8 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, when the fiery sun has topped the trees -and a pool of water, or a shady place appears, the -planting of the red flag, the braying of a Barghumi, or -koodoo’s horn, which, heard at a distance in the deep -forests, has something of the charm which endears the -“Cor de Chasse” to every woodman’s ear, and sometimes -a musket-shot or two, announces a short halt. The -porters stack their loads, and lie or loiter about for a -few minutes, chatting, drinking, and smoking tobacco -and bhang, with the usual whooping, screaming cough, -and disputing eagerly about the resting-place for the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-352">[352]</span> -day. On long marches we then take the opportunity -of stopping to discuss the contents of two baskets which -are carried by a slave under the eye of the Goanese.</p> - -<p>If the stage be prolonged towards noon, the caravan -lags, straggles, and suffers sorely. The heat of the -ground, against which the horniest sole never becomes -proof, tries the feet like polished-leather boots on -a quarter-deck in the dog-days near the Line, and -some tribulation is caused by the cry M’iba hapa!—thorns -here! The Arabs and the Baloch must often halt -to rest. The slaves ensconce themselves in snug places; -the porters, propping their burdens against trees, curl -up, dog-like, under the shade; some malinger; and this, -the opportunity preferred for desertion, is an anxious -hour to the proprietor; who, if he would do his work -“deedily,” must be the last in the kraal. Still the men -rarely break down. As in Indian marching, the African -caravan prefers to end the day, rather than to begin it, -with a difficulty—the ascent of a hill, or the fording of -a stream. They prefer the strip of jungle at the further -end of a district or a plantation, for safety as well as -for the comfort of shade. They avoid the vicinity of -rocks; and on desert plains they occupy some slightly -rising ground, where the night-cold is less severe than -in the lower levels.</p> - -<p>At length an increased hubbub of voices, blended -with bells, drums, fifes, and horns, and sometimes a few -musket-shots, announce that the van is lodged, and the -hubbub of the halt confirms the pleasing intelligence -that the journey is shortened by a stage. Each selfish -body then hurries forward to secure the best boothy -in the kraal, or the most comfortable hut in the -village, and quarrels seem serious. Again, however, -the knife returns home guiltless of gore, and the -spear is used only as an instrument for sound belabouring. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-353">[353]</span> -The more energetic at once apply themselves -to “making all snug” for the long hot afternoon and the -nipping night; some hew down young trees, others -collect heaps of leafy boughs; one acts architect, and -many bring in huge loads of firewood. The East African -is so much accustomed to house-life, that the bivouac in -the open appears to him a hardship; he prefers even -to cut out the interior of a bush and to squat in it, the -portrait of a comfortable cynocephalus. We usually -spread our donkey-saddles and carpets in some shade, -awaiting the arrival of our tents, and its erection by the -grumbling sons of Ramji; if we want a hut, we draw -out the man in possession like a badger,—he will never -have the decency to offer it. As a rule, the villagers are -more willing to receive the upward-bound caravans, than -those who, returning, carry wealth out of instead of into -the country. Merchants, on account of their valuable -outfits, affect, except in the safest localities, the khambi -rather than the village; the latter, however, is not only -healthier, despite its uncleanliness in miasmatic lands, -but is also more comfortable, plenty and variety of provisions -being more readily procured inside than outside. -The Arab’s khaymah is a thin pole or ridge-tent of -flimsy domestics, admitting sun and rain, and, like an -Irish cabin, permitting at night the occupant to tell -time by the stars; yet he prefers it, probably for -dignity, to the boothy which, in this land of verdure -and cool winds, is a far more comfortable lodging.</p> - -<p>The Wamrima willingly admit strangers into their -villages; the Wazaramo would do the same, but they -are constantly at feud with the Wanyamwezi, who -therefore care not to avail themselves of the dangerous -hospitality. In K’hutu caravans seize by force the best -lodgings. Throughout Eastern Usagara travellers pitch -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-354">[354]</span> -tents in the dear central spaces, surrounded by the round -huts of the peasantry, under whose low and drooping -eaves the pagazi find shelter. In the western regions, -where the Tembe or square village prevails, kraals form -the nighting-place. In Ugogo strangers rarely enter the -hamlets, the hovels being foul, and the people dangerous. -Throughout Eastern and Central Unyamwezi caravans -defile into the villages without hesitation. Some parties -take possession of the Iwanza or public-house; others -build for themselves tabernacles of leafy boughs, which -they are expected to clear away before departure, and -the headman provides lodgings for the Mtongi. In -Western Unyamwezi the doors are often closed against -strangers, and in Eastern Uvinza the people will admit -travellers to bivouac, but they will not vacate their -huts. In Western Uvinza, a desert like Marenga and -Mgunda Mk’hali, substantial khambi occur at short -intervals. At Ujiji, the Sultan, after offering the preliminary -magubiko or presents, provides his guests with -lodgings, which, after a time sufficient for enabling -them to build huts, they must vacate in favour of -new comers. In the other Lake Regions the reception -depends mainly upon the number of muskets in a -caravan, and the character of the headman and his -people.</p> - -<p>The khambi or kraal everywhere varies in shape and -material. In the eastern regions, where trees are scarce, -wattle frames of rough sticks, compacted with bark-fibre, -are disposed in a circle; the forked uprights, made -higher behind and lower in front, to form a sloping -roof, support horizontal or cross poles, which are overlaid -with a rough thatch of grass or grain-cane. The -central space upon which the boothies open is occupied -by one or more huts for the chiefs of the party; and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-355">[355]</span> -the outer circle is a loose fence of thorn branches, flimsy, -yet impassable to breech-less legs, unshod feet, and -thin loose body-garments. When a kraal must be built, -rations are not served out till enclosures made round -the camp secure the cattle; if the leader be dilatory, or -unwilling to take strong measures, he may be a serious -loser. The stationary kraals become offensive, if not -burnt down after a few months. The Masika-kraal, as -it is called, is that occupied only during the rainy -monsoon, when water is everywhere found. The vicinity -and the abundance of that necessary are the main -considerations in selecting the situation of encampments. -The bark-kraals commence in Uvinza, where -trees abound, and extend to the Tanganyika Lake; some -are substantial, as the temporary villages, and may be -a quarter of a mile in circumference. The Lakist -population carry with them, when travelling, Karagwah -or stiff mats of reed and rush; these they spread over -and fasten to a firmly-planted framework of flexible -boughs, not unlike a bird’s nest inverted, or they -build a cone of strong canes, in the shape of piled -muskets, with the ends lashed together. It is curious -to see the small compass in which the native African -traveller can contract himself: two, and even three, will -dispose their heads and part of their bodies—leaving -their lower limbs to the mercy of the elements—under -a matting little more than a yard square.</p> - -<p>When lodgings in the kraal have been distributed, -and the animals have been off-packed, and water has -been brought from the pit or stream, all apply themselves -to the pleasant toil of refection. Merrily then -sounds the breathless chant of the woman pounding or -rubbing down grain, the song of the cook, and the tinkle-tinkle -of the slave’s pestle, as he bends over the iron -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-356">[356]</span> -mortar from which he stealthily abstracts the coffee. -The fireplaces are three stones or clods, placed trivet-wise -upon the ground, so that a draught may feed the -flame, they are far superior to the holes and trenches -of our camps and pic-nics. The tripod supports a small -black earthen pot, round which the khambi or little -knot of messmates perseveringly squat despite the -stinging sun. At home where they eat their own provisions -they content themselves with a slender meal of -flour and water once a day. But like Spaniards, Arabs, -and all abstemious races, they must “make up for lost -time.” When provisions are supplied to them, they -are cooking and consuming as long as the material -remains; the pot is in perpetual requisition, now filled -to be emptied, then refilled to be re-emptied. They will -devour in three days the rations provided for eight, -and then complain loudly that they are starved. To -leave a favourable impression upon their brains, I had a -measure nearly double that generally used, yet the perverse -wretches pleading hunger, though they looked -like aldermen by the side of the lean bony anatomies -whom they met on the road, would desert whenever -met by a caravan. After a time there will, doubtless, -be a re-action; when their beards whiten they will -indulge in the garrulity of age; they will recount to -wondering youth the prodigality of the Muzungu, in -filling them with grain, even during the longest marches, -and they will compare his loads of cloth and beads with -the half dozen “shaggy” cows and the worn-out hoes, -the sole outfit for presents and provisions carried by -caravans of “Young Africa.” If there be any delay in -serving out provisions, loud cries of Posho! p’hamba!—rations! -food!—resound through the camp; yet -when fatigued, the porters will waste hours in apathetic -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-357">[357]</span> -idleness rather than walk a few hundred yards to buy -grain. Between their dozen meals they puff clouds of -pungent tobacco, cough and scream over their jungle-bhang, -and chew ashes, quids, and pinches of red earth, -probably the graves of white ants. If meat be served -out to them, it is eaten as a relish; it never, however, -interferes with the consumption of porridge. A sudden -glut of food appears to have the effect of intoxicating -them. The Arabs, however, avoiding steady rations, -alternately gorge and starve their porters, knowing by -experience that such extremes are ever most grateful to -the barbarian stomach. The day must be spent in very -idleness; a man will complain bitterly if told to bring -up his pack for opening; and general discontent, with -hints concerning desertion, will arise from the mortification -of a muster. On such occasions he and his fellows -will raise their voices,—when not half-choked by food—and -declare that they will not be called about like servants, -and crouch obstinately round the smoky fire, the -pictures of unutterable disgust; and presently enjoy -the sweet savour of stick-jaw dough and pearl-holcus -like small shot, rat stews, and boiled weeds, which they -devour till their “bulge” appears like the crop of a -stuffed turkey. Sometimes when their improvidence -has threatened them with a Banyan-day, they sit in a -melancholy plight, spitefully smoking and wickedly eyeing -our cooking-pots; on these occasions they have -generally a goat or a bullock in store, and, if not, they -finesse to obtain one of ours. I always avoid issuing -an order to them direct, having been warned by experience -that Kidogo or the Kirangozi is the proper channel; -which sorely vexes Valentine and Seedy Bombay, whose -sole enjoyment in life is command. I observed that -when wanted for extra-work, to remove thorns or -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-358">[358]</span> -to dig for water, that the false alarm of Posho! (rations) -summons them with a wonderful alacrity. -Moreover, I remarked that when approaching their country -and leaving ours—the coast—they became almost -unmanageable and <i>vice versâ</i> as conditions changed.</p> - -<p>My companion and I pass our day as we best can, -sometimes in a bower of leafy branches, often under -a spreading tree, rarely in the flimsy tent. The usual -occupations are the diary and the sketch-book, added to -a little business. The cloth must be doled out, and the -porters must be persuaded, when rested, to search the -country for rations, otherwise—the morrow will be a -blank. When a bullock is killed one of us must be present. -The porters receive about a quarter of the meat, over -which they sit wrangling and screaming like hyænas, -till a fair division according to messes is arrived at. -Then, unless watched, some strong and daring hand will -suddenly break through the ring, snatch up half a dozen -portions and disappear at a speed defying pursuit; -others will follow his example, with the clatter and -gesture of a troop of baboons, and the remainder will -retire as might be expected, grumbling and discontented. -Dinner at 4 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> breaks the neck of the day. -Provisions of some kind are mostly procurable, our diet, -however, varies from such common doings as the hard -holcus-scone, the tasteless bean-broth and the leathery -goat-steak, to fixings of delicate venison, fatted capon, -and young guinea-fowl or partridge, with “bread -sauce,” composed of bruised rice and milk. At first -the Goanese declined to cook “pretty food,” as pasties -and rissoles, on the plea that such things were impossible -upon the march; they changed their minds when -warned that persistence in such theory might lead to a -ceremonious fustigation. Moreover, they used to serve -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-359">[359]</span> -us after their fashion, with a kind of “portion” on -plates; the best part, of course, remained in the pots -and digesters; these, therefore, were ordered to do duty -as dishes. When tea or coffee is required in a drinkable -state, we must superintend the process of preparing it, -the notions of the Goanese upon such subjects being -abominable to the civilised palate. When we have -eaten our servants take their turn; they squat opposite -each other over a private “cooking-pot” to which they -have paid unremitting attention; they stretch forth their -talons and eat till weary, not satiated, pecking, nodding, -and cramming like two lank black pigeons. Being -“Christians,” that is to say, Roman Catholics, they -will not feed with the heathenry, moreover a sort of -semi-European dignity forbids. Consequently Bombay -messes with his “brother” Mabruki, and the other -slaves eat by themselves.</p> - -<p>When the wells ahead are dry the porters will scarcely -march in the morning; their nervous impatience of thirst -is such that they would exhaust all their gourds, if they -expected a scarcity in front, and then they would suffer -severely through the long hot day. They persist, moreover, -upon eating before the march, under the false -impression that it gives them strength and bottom. In -fact, whenever difficulties as regards grain or drink -suggest themselves, the African requires the direction -of some head-piece made of better stuff than his own. -The hardships of the tirikeza have already been described: -they must be endured to be realised.</p> - -<p>Night is ushered in by penning and pounding the -cows, and by tethering the asses—these “careless -Æthiopians” lose them every second day,—and by collecting -and numbering the loads, a task of difficulty -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-360">[360]</span> -where every man shirks the least trouble. When there -has been no tirikeza, when provisions have been -plentiful, and when there is a bright moonshine, which -seems to enliven these people like jackals, a furious -drumming, a loud clapping of hands, and a general -droning song, summon the lads and the lasses of the -neighbouring villages to come out and dance and “make -love.” The performance is laborious, but these Africans, -like most men of little game, soon become too tired to work, -but not too tired to play and amuse themselves. Their -style of salutation is remarkable only for the excessive -gravity which it induces; at no other time does the -East African look so serious, so full of earnest purpose. -Sometimes a single dancer, the village buffoon, foots -a <i>pas seul</i>, featly, with head, arms, and legs, bearing -strips of hair-garnished cow-skin, which are waved, -jerked, and contorted, as if dislocation had occurred to -his members. At other times, a line or a circle of boys -and men is formed near the fire, and one standing in -the centre, intones the song solo, the rest humming a -chorus in an undertone. The dancers plumbing and -tramping to the measure with alternate feet, simultaneously -perform a treadmill exercise with a heavier -stamp at the end of every period: they are such timists, -that a hundred pair of heels sound like one. At first -the bodies are slowly swayed from side to side, presently -as excitement increases, the exercise waxes severe: -they “cower down and lay out their buttocks,” to use -pedantic Ascham’s words, “as though they would shoot -at crows;” they bend and recover themselves, and they -stoop and rise to the redoubled sound of the song and -the heel-music, till the assembly, with arms waving -like windmills, assumes the frantic semblance of a -ring of Egyptian Darwayshes. The performance often -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-361">[361]</span> -closes with a grand promenade; all the dancers being -jammed in a rushing mass, a <i>galop infernale</i>, with the -features of satyrs, and gestures resembling aught but -the human. When the fun threatens to become too -fast and furious, the song dies, and the performers, with -loud shouts of laughter, throw themselves on the -ground, to recover strength and breath. The greybeards -look on with admiration and sentiment, remembering -the days when they were capable of similar feats. -Instead of “bravo,” they ejaculate “Nice! nice! very -nice!” and they wonder what makes the white men -laugh. The ladies prefer to perform by themselves, -and perhaps in the East, ours would do the same, if a -literal translation of the remarks to which a ball always -gives rise amongst Orientals, happened by misfortune to -reach their refined ears.</p> - -<p>When there is no dancing, and the porters can no -longer eat, drink, and smoke, they sit by their fires, -chatting, squabbling, talking and singing some such -“pure nectar” as the following. The song was composed, -I believe, in honour of me, and I frequently heard -it when the singers knew that it was understood. The -Cosmopolitan reader will not be startled by the epithet -“Mbaya,” or wicked, therein applied to the Muzungu. -A “good white man,” would indeed, in these lands, have -been held an easy-going soul, a natural, an innocent, -like the “buona famiglia,” of the Italian cook, who ever -holds the highest quality of human nature to be a -certain facility for being “plucked without ’plaining,” -and being “flayed without flinching.” Moreover, -despite my “wickedness,” they used invariably to come -to me for justice and redress, especially when proximity -to the coast encouraged the guide and guards to “bully” -them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-362">[362]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent6">“Muzungu mbaya” (the wicked white man) goes from the shore,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">(<i>Chorus</i>)<span class="padl5">Puti!</span> Puti! (I can only translate it by “grub! grub!”)<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent10">We will follow “Muzungu mbaya.”<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent12">Puti! Puti!<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent10">As long as he gives us good food!<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent12">Puti! Puti!<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent10">We will traverse the hill and the stream,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent12">Puti! Puti!<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent10">With the caravan of this great mundewa (merchant).<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent12">Puti! Puti! &c., &c.<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p>The Baloch and the sons of Ramji quarrel, yell, -roar, and talk of eating—the popular subject of converse -in these lands, as is beer in England, politics in -France, law in Normandy, “pasta” at Naples, and to -say no more, money everywhere—till a late hour. -About 8 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, the small hours of the country, sounds -the cry lala! lala!—sleep! It is willingly obeyed by -all except the women, who must sometimes awake to -confabulate even at midnight. One by one the caravan -sinks into torpid slumber. At this time, especially -when in the jungle-bivouac, the scene often becomes -truly impressive. The dull red fires flickering and -forming a circle of ruddy light in the depths of the -black forest, flaming against the tall trunks and defining -the foliage of the nearer trees, illuminate lurid groups -of savage men, in every variety of shape and posture. -Above, the dark purple sky, studded with golden points, -domes the earth with bounds narrowed by the gloom -of night. And, behold! in the western horizon, a resplendent -crescent, with a dim, ash-coloured globe in -its arms, and crowned by Hesperus, sparkling like -a diamond, sinks through the vast of space, in all the -glory and gorgeousness of Eternal Nature’s sublimest -works. From such a night, methinks, the Byzantine -man took his device, the Crescent and the Star.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-363">[363]</span></p> - -<p>The rate of caravan-marching in East Africa greatly -varies. In cool moonlit mornings, over an open path, the -Pagazi will measure perhaps four miles an hour. This -speed is reduced by a quarter after a short “spurt,” and -under normal, perhaps favourable, circumstances, three -statute miles will be the highest average. Throughout -the journey it is safe to reckon for an Indian file -of moderate length—say 150 men—2·25 English miles, -or what is much the same, 1·75 geographical miles per -hour, measured by compass from point to point. In a -clear country an allowance of 20 per cent, must be -made for winding: in closer regions 40-50 per cent., -and the traveller must exercise his judgment in distributing -his various courses between these extremes. Mr. -Cooley (Inner Africa Laid Open, p. 6) a “resolute,” and -I may add a most successful “reducer of itinerary distances,” -estimates that the ordinary day’s journey of the -Portuguese missionaries in West Africa never exceeded -six geographical miles projected in a straight line, and -that on rare occasions, and with effort only, it may -have extended to 10 miles. Dr. Lacerda’s porters in -East Africa were terrified at the thought of marching -ordinarily 2·50 Portuguese leagues, or about 9·33 statute -miles per day. Dr. Livingstone gives the exceedingly -high maximum of 2·50 to 3 miles an hour in a straight -line, but his porters were lightly laden, and the -Makololo are apparently a far “gamer” race, more -sober and industrious, than the East Africans. Mr. -Petherick, H. M.’s Consul at Khartum, estimates his -gangs to have marched 3·50 miles per hour, and -the ordinary day’s march at 8 hours. It is undoubted -that the negro races north of the equator far -surpass in pedestrian powers their southern brethren; -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-364">[364]</span> -moreover the porters in question were marching only -for a single day; but as no instruments were used, the -average may fairly be suspected of exaggeration. Finally -Mr. Galton’s observation concerning Cape travelling -applies equally well to this part of Africa, namely, that -10 statute or 6 rectilinear geographical miles per diem -is a fair average of progress, and that he does well who -conducts the same caravan 1,000 geographical miles -across a wild country in six months.</p> - -<p>I will conclude this chapter with a succinct account -of the inn, that is to say the village in East Africa.</p> - -<p>The habitations of races form a curious study and no -valueless guide to the nature of the climate and the -physical conditions to which men are subject.</p> - -<p>Upon the East African coast the villages, as has been -mentioned, are composed of large tenements, oblongs or -squares of wattle and dab, with eaves projecting to form -a deep verandah and a thatched pent-roof, approaching -in magnitude that of Madagascar.</p> - -<p>Beyond the line of maritime land the “Nyumba” or -dwelling-house assumes the normal African form, the -circular hut described by every traveller in the interior: -Dr. Livingstone appears to judge rightly that its circularity -is the result of a barbarous deficiency in inventiveness. -It has, however, several varieties. The -simplest is a loose thatch thrown upon a cone of sticks -based upon the ground, and lashed together at the -apex: it ignores windows, and the door is a low hole -in the side. A superior kind is made after the manner -of our ancient bee hives; it is cup-shaped with bulging -sides, and covered with neat thatch, cut in circles -which overlap one another tile-fashion: at a distance -it resembles an inverted bird’s nest. The common -shape is a cylindrical framework of tall staves, or the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-365">[365]</span> -rough trunks of young trees planted in the earth, -neatly interwoven with parallel and concentric rings -of flexible twigs and withies: this is plastered inside -and outside with a hard coat of red or grey mud; -in the poorer tenements the surface is rough and -chinked, in the better order it is carefully smoothed -and sometimes adorned with rude imitations of life. -The diameter averages from 20 to 25, and the height -from 7 to 15 feet in the centre, which is supported -by a strong roof-tree, to which all the stacked rafters -and poles converge. The roof is subsequently added, -it is a structure similar to the walls, interwoven -with sticks, upon which thick grass or palm-fronds are -thrown, and the whole is covered with thatch tied on -by strips of tree-bark. It has eaves which projecting from -two to six feet—under them the inhabitants love to sit -or sun shade themselves—rest upon horizontal bars, which -are here and there supported by forked uprights, trees -rudely barked. Near the coast the eaves are broad and -high: in the interior they are purposely made so low -that a man must creep in on all fours. The door-way -resembles the entrance to an English pig-sty, it serves, -however, to keep out heat in the hot season, and to -keep in smoke and warmth during the rains and the -cold weather: the threshold is garnished with a horizontal -log or board that defends the interior from inundation. -The door is a square of reeds fastened together -by bark or cord, and planted upright at night between -the wall and two dwarf posts at each side of the entrance: -there is generally a smaller and a secret door -opposite that in use, and jealously closed up except -when flight is necessary. In the colder and damper -regions there is a second wall and roof outside the first, -forming in fact one house within the other.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-366">[366]</span></p> - -<p>About Central Usagara the normal African haystack-hut -makes place for the “Tembe” which extends westward, -a little beyond Unyanyembe. The Tembe, though -of Hamitic origin, resembles the Utum of the ancients, -and the Hishan of the modern Hejaz, those hollow -squares of building which have extended through Spain -to France and even to Ireland: it was, probably, suggested -to Africa and to Arabia by the necessity of -defence to, as well as lodging for, man and beast. It is -to a certain extent, a proof of civilisation in Eastern -Africa: the wildest tribes have not progressed beyond -the mushroom or circular hut, a style of architecture -which seems borrowed from the indigenous mimosa tree.</p> - -<p>Westward of Unyamwezi in Uvinza and about the -Tanganyika Lake the round hovel again finds favour -with the people; but even there the Arabs prefer to -build for themselves the more solid and comfortable -Tembe.</p> - -<p>The haystack-hut has been described by a multitude -of travellers: the “Tembe,” or hollow village, yet -awaits that honour.</p> - -<p>The “Tembe” wants but the addition of white-wash -to make it an effective feature in African scenery: as it -is, it appears from afar like a short line of raised earth. -Provided with a block-house at each angle to sweep -dead ground where fire, the only mode of attack practised -in these regions, can be applied, it would become a -fort impregnable to the Eastern African. The form is -a hollow square or oblong, generally irregular, with -curves, projections, and semicircles; in the East -African Ghauts, the shape is sometimes round or oval -to suit the exigencies of the hill-sides and the dwarf -cones upon which it is built. On the mountains and in -Ugogo, where timber is scarce, the houses form the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-367">[367]</span> -continued frontage of the building, which, composed of -mimosa-trunks, stout stakes, and wattle and dab, rarely -exceeds seven feet in height. In the southern regions -of Usagara where the Tembe is poorest, the walls are of -clods loosely put together and roofed over with a little -straw. About Msene where fine trees abound, the Tembe -is surrounded by a separate boma or palisade of young -unbarked trunks, short or tall, and capped here and -there with cattle-skulls, blocks of wood, grass-wisps, -and similar talismans; this stockade, in damper places, -is hedged with a high thick fence, sometimes doubled -and trebled, of peagreen milk-bush, which looks pretty -and refreshing, and is ditched outside with a deep -trench serving as a drain. The cleared space in front -of the main passage through the hedges is often decorated -with a dozen poles, placed in a wide semicircle to -support human skulls, the mortal remains of ill-conducted -boors. In some villages the principal entrance -is approached by long, dark and narrow lanes of palisading. -When the settlement is built purely for defence, -it is called “Kaya,” and its headman “Muinyi Kaya,” -the word, however, is sometimes used for “Boma” or -“Mji,” a palisaded village in general. In some parts -of Unyamwezi there is a Bandani or exterior boothy, -where the men work at the forge, or sit in the shade, -and where the women husk, pound, and cook their grain.</p> - -<p>The general roof of the Tembe is composed of mud -and clay heaped upon grass thickly strewed over a -framework of rafters supported by the long walls. It -has, usually, an obtuse slope to the front and another -to the rear, that rain may not lie; it is, however, flat -enough to support the bark-bins of grain, gourds, old -pots, firewood, water-melons, pumpkins, manioc, mushrooms, -and other articles placed there to ripen or dry -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-368">[368]</span> -in the sun. It has no projecting eaves, and it is ascended -from the inside by the primitive ladder, the -inclined trunk of a tree, with steps formed by the -stumps of lopped boughs, acting rings. The roof, -during the rains, is a small plot of bright green grass: -I often regretted not having brought with me a little -store of mustard and cress. In each external side of -the square, one or two door-ways are pierced; they -are large enough to admit a cow, and though public -they often pass through private domiciles. They are -jealously closed at sunset, after which hour not a villager -dares to stir from his home till morning. The outer -doors are sometimes solid planks, more often they are -three or four heavy beams suspended to a cross-bar -passing through their tops. When the way is to be -opened they are raised from below and are kept up by -being planted in a forked tree-trunk inside the palisade: -they are let down when the entrance is to be closed, -and are barred across with strong poles.</p> - -<p>The tenements are divided from one another by party-walls -of the same material as the exterior. Each -house has, usually, two rooms, a “but” and a “ben,” -which vary in length from 20 to 50 feet, and in depth -from 12 to 15: they are partitioned by a screen of corn-canes -supported by stakes, with a small passage left -open for light. The “but,” used as parlour, kitchen, and -dormitory, opens upon the common central square; the -“ben” receives a glimmer from the doors and chinks, -which have not yet suggested the idea of windows: it -serves for a sleeping and a store room; it is a favourite -place with hens and pigeons that aspire to be mothers, -and the lambs and kids in early infancy are allowed to -pass the night there. The inner walls are smeared with -mud: lime is not procurable in Eastern Africa, and the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-369">[369]</span> -people have apparently no predilection for the Indian -“Gobar:” floor is of tamped earth, rough, uneven, -and unclean. The prism-shaped ceiling is composed of -rafters and thin poles gently rising from the long-walls -to the centre, where they are supported by strong horizontals, -which run the whole length of the house, and -these again rest upon a proportionate number of pillars, -solid forked uprights, planted in the floor. The ceiling -is polished to a shiny black with smoke, which winds its -way slowly through the door—smoke and grease are -the African’s coat and small clothes, they contribute so -much to his health and comfort that he is by no means -anxious to get rid of them—and sooty lines depend -from it like negro-stalactites.</p> - -<p>The common enceinte formed by the houses is often -divided into various courts, intended for different -families, by the walls of the tenements, or by stout -screens, and connected by long wynds and dark alleys -of palisade-work. The largest and cleanest square -usually belongs to the headman. In these spaces cattle -are milked and penned; the ground is covered with a -thick coat of the animals’ earths, dust in the hot weather -and deep viscid mud during the rains: the impurity -must be an efficacious fomite of cutaneous and pectoral -disease. The villagers are fond of planting in the central -courts trees, under whose grateful shade the loom -is plied, the children play, the men smoke, and the -women work. Here, also, stands the little Mzimu, or -Fetiss-hut, to receive the oblations of the pious. Places -are partitioned off from the public ground, near the -houses, by horizontal trunks of trees, resting on forks, -forming pens to keep the calves from the cows at -night. In some villages huge bolsters of surplus grain, -neatly packed in bark and corded round, are raised on -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-370">[370]</span> -tall poles near the interior doors of the tenements. -Often, too, the insides of the settlements boast of pigeon-houses, -which in this country are made to resemble, in -miniature, those of the people. In Unyamwezi the -centre is sometimes occupied by the Iwanza, or village -“public-house,” which will be described in a future -chapter.</p> - -<p>In some regions, as in Ugogo, these lodgings become -peculiarly offensive if not burnt after the first year. -The tramping of the owners upon the roof shakes mud -and soot from the ceiling, and the rains wash down -masses of earthwork heavy enough to do injury. The -interior is a menagerie of hens, pigeons, and rats, of -peculiar impudence. Scorpions and earwigs fall from -their nests in the warm or shady rafters. The former, -locally termed “Nge,” is a small yellow variety, and -though it stings spitefully the pain seldom lasts through -the day; as many as three have dropped upon my couch -in the course of the week. In Ugogo there is a green -scorpion from four to five inches long, which inflicts a -torturing wound. According to the Arabs the scorpion -in Eastern Africa dies after inflicting five consecutive -stings, and commits suicide if a bit of stick be applied to -the middle of its back. The earwig is common in all damp -places, and it haunts the huts on account of the shade. -The insect apparently casts its coat before the rainy -season, and the Africans ignore the superstition which -in most European countries has given origin to its -trivial name. A small xylophagus with a large black -head rains a yellow dust like pollen from the riddled -woodwork; house-crickets chirp from evening to dawn; -cockroaches are plentiful as in an Indian steamer; and -a solitary mason-wasp, the “Kumbharni,” or “potter’s -wife” of western India—a large hymenopter of several -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-371">[371]</span> -varieties, tender-green, or black and yellow, or dark -metallic blue—burrows holes in the wall, or raises -plastered nests, and buzzes about the inmates’ ears; -lizards, often tailless after the duello, tumble from the -ceilings; in the darker corners spiders of frightful -hideousness weave their solid webs; and the rest of the -population is represented by tenacious ticks of many -kinds, flies of sorts, bugs, fleas, mosquitoes, and small -ants, which are, perhaps, the worst plagues of all. The -Riciniæ in Eastern Africa are locally called Papazi, -which probably explains the “Pazi bug,” made by Dr. -Krapf a rival in venom to the Argas Persicus, or fatal -“bug of Miana.” In Eastern Africa these parasites are -found of many shapes, round and oval, flat and swollen; -after suction they vary in size from microscopic dimensions -to three-quarters of an inch; the bite cannot -poison, but the constant irritation caused by it may -induce fever and its consequences. A hut infested with -Papazi must be sprinkled with boiling water, and swept -clean for many weeks, before they will disappear. In -the Tembe there is no draught to disturb the smaller -occupants, consequently they are more numerous than -in the circular cottage. Moreover, the people, having -an aversion to sleeping in the open air, thus supply -their co-inhabitants with nightly rations, which account -for their fecundity.</p> - -<p>The abodes, as might be expected, are poorly furnished. -In Unyamwezi, they contain invariably one or more -“Kitanda.” This cartel, or bedstead, is a rude contrivance. -Two parallel lines of peeled tree-branches, planted at -wide intervals, support in their forks horizontal poles: -upon these is spread crosswise a layer of thick sticks, -which forms the frame. The bedding consists of a -bull-hide or two, and perhaps a long, coarse, rush-mat. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-372">[372]</span> -It is impossible for any one but an African to sleep -upon these Kitanda, on account of their shortness, the -hardness of the material, and the rapid slope which -supplies the want of pillows, and serves for another -purpose which will not be described. When removed, -a fractured pole will pour forth a small shower of the -foul cimex: this people of hard skins considers its -bite an agreeable titillation, and, what may somewhat -startle a European, esteems its odour a perfume. -Around the walls depend from pegs neatly-plaited -slings of fibrous cord, supporting gourds and “vilindo”—neat -cylinders, like small band-boxes, of tree bark, -made to contain cloth, butter, grain, or other provisions. -In the store-room, propped upon stones, and plastered -over with clay for preservation, are Lindo, huge corn-bins -of the same material; grain is ground upon a -coarse granite slab, raised at an angle of 25°, about -one foot above the floor, and embedded in a rim of -hard clay. The hearth is formed of three “Mafiga,” -or truncated cones of red or grey mud, sometimes two -feet high, and ten inches in diameter at the base: they -are disposed triangularly, with the apex to the wall, -and open to the front when the fire is made. The pot -rests upon the tripod. The broom, a wisp of grass, a -bunch of bamboo splints, or a split fibrous root, usually -sticks in the ceiling; its work is left to the ants. From -the rafters hang drums and kettle-drums, skins and -hides in every process, and hooked twigs dangling -from strings support the bows and arrows, the spears -and assegais. An arrow is always thrust into the inner -thatch for good luck: ivory is stored between the -rafters, hence its dark ruddy colour, which must be -removed by ablution with warm blood; and the ceiling -is a favourite place for small articles that require -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-373">[373]</span> -seasoning—bows, quivers, bird-bolts, knob-sticks, walking-canes, -reed-nozzles for bellows, and mi’iko or ladles, -two feet long, used to stir porridge. The large and heavy -water-pots, of black clay, which are filled every morning -and evening by the women at the well, lie during -the day empty or half empty about the room. The -principal article of luxury is the “Kiti,” or dwarf -stool, cut out of a solid block, measuring one foot in -height by six inches in diameter, with a concave surface -for convenience of sitting: it has usually three carved -legs or elbows; some, however, are provided with a -fourth, and with a base like the seat, to steady them. -They are invariably used by the Sultan and the -Mganga, who disdain to sit upon the ground: and the -Wamrima ornament them with plates of tin let into the -upper concaves. The woods generally used for the Kiti, -are the Mninga and the Mpingu. The former is a tall -and stately tree, which supplies wood of a dark mahogany -colour, exuding in life a red gum, like dragon’s -blood: the trunk is converted into bowls and platters, -the boughs into rafters, which are, however, weak -and subject to the xylophagus, whilst of the heart -are made spears, which, when old and well-greased, -resemble teak-wood. The Mpingu is the Sisam of India, -(Dalbergia Sissoo) here erroneously called by the Arabs -Abnus—ebony. The tree is found throughout Eastern -Africa. The wood is of fine quality, and dark at the -core: the people divide it into male and female; the -former is internally a dark brick-dust red, whilst the -latter verges upon black: they make from it spears -and axe-handles, which soon, however, when exposed -to the air, unless regularly greased, become brittle. -The massive mortar, for husking grain, called by the -people “Mchi,” is shaped exactly like those portrayed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-374">[374]</span> -in the interior-scenes of ancient Egypt: it is hewn out -of the trunk of the close-grained Mkora tree. The -huge pestle, like a capstan-bar, is made of the -Mkorongo, a large tree with a fine-grained wood, which -is also preferred to others for rafters, as it best resists -the attacks of insects.</p> - -<p>Such, gentle reader, is the Tembe of Central Africa. -Concerning village life, I shall have something to say -in a future page. The scene is more patent to the -stranger’s eye in these lands than in the semi-civilised -regions of Asia, where men rarely admit him into their -society.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-375">[375]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoi-15"> -<img src="images/i_illo405.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">African House Building.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XI.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">WE CONCLUDE THE TRANSIT OF UNYAMWEZI.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">I was detained at Kazeh from the 8th November to -the 14th December, 1857, and the delay was one long -trial of patience.</p> - -<p>It is customary for stranger-caravans proceeding towards -Ujiji to remain six weeks or two months at -Unyanyembe for repose and recovery from the labours -which they have, or are supposed to have, endured: -moreover, they are expected to enjoy the pleasures of -civilised society, and to accept the hospitality offered to -them by the resident Arabs. In Eastern Africa, I may -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-376">[376]</span> -again suggest, six weeks is as the three days’ visit in -England.</p> - -<p>On the morning after our arrival at Kazeh, the gang -of Wanyamwezi porters that had accompanied us from -the coast withdrew their hire from our cloth-bales; -and not demanding, because they did not expect, -bakhshish, departed, without a sign of farewell, to -their homes in Western Unyamwezi. The Kirangozi -or guide received a small present of domestics: his -family being at Msene, distant five marches ahead, he -fixed, after long haggling, the term of fifteen days as -his leave of absence, after which he promised to join me -with a fresh gang for the journey to Ujiji.</p> - -<p>The rest of the party apparently considered Unyanyembe, -not Ujiji, the end of the exploration; it proved -in effect a second point of departure, easier than Kaole -only because I had now gained some experience.</p> - -<p>Two days after our arrival, the Baloch, headed by -their Jemadar, appeared in full toilette to demand a -“Hakk el Salamah,” or reward for safe-conduct. I informed -them that this would be given when they -had reached the end of the up-march. The pragmatical -Darwaysh declared that without bakhshish there -would be no advance; he withdrew his words, however, -when my companion was called in to witness their being -committed to paper—a proceeding always unpalatable -to the Oriental. The Baloch then subsided -into begging for salt and spices, and having received -more than they had probably ever possessed in their -lives, they privily complained of my parsimony to Said -bin Salim. They then sent for tobacco, a goat, gunpowder, -bullets—all which they obtained. Their -next manœuvre was to extract four cloths for tinning -their single copper pot and for repairing the matchdogs -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-377">[377]</span> -and stocks of two old matchlocks. They then sold a -keg of gunpowder committed to their charge. They -had experienced every kindness from Snay bin Amir, -from Sallum bin Hamid, in fact, from all the Arab merchants -of Kazeh. They lodged comfortably in Musa -Mzuri’s house, and their allowance, one Shukkah of -domestics per diem, enabled them to buy goats, sheep, -and fowls—luxuries unknown in their starving huts at -Zanzibar. Yet they did not fail, with their foul tongues, -ever ready, as the Persians say, for “spitting at Heaven,” -to charge their kind hosts with the worst crime that -the Arab knows—niggardness.</p> - -<p>On the 8th November, I had arranged with Kidogo, as -well as with the Kirangozi, to resume the march at the -end of a fortnight. Ten days afterwards I again sent -for him to conclude the plans concerning the journey: -evidently something lay deep within his breast, but the -difficulty was to extract it. He began by requiring a -present for his excellent behaviour—he received, to his -astonishment, four cloths. He next demanded leave to -visit his Unyamwezi home for a week, and was unpleasantly -surprised when it was granted. He then “hit the -right nail on the head.” The sons of Ramji, declaring that -I had promised them a bullock on arrival at Kazeh, -had seized, hamstrung, and cut up a fine fat animal sent -to me by Sallum bin Hamid; yet Kidogo averred that -the alleged promise must be fulfilled to them. When I -refused, he bluntly informed me that I was quite equal -to the task of collecting porters for myself; I replied -that this was his work and not mine. He left the house -abruptly, swearing that he would not trouble himself -any longer, and, moreover, for the future that his men -should not carry the lightest load, nor assist us even in -threading beads. At last, on the 27th November, I sent -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-378">[378]</span> -for Kidogo, and told him that the march was positively -fixed for the next week. After sitting for a time -“<i>cupo concentrato</i>,” in profound silence, the angry -slave arose, delivered a volley of rattling words with -the most theatrical fierceness, and rushed from the room, -leaving the terrified Said bin Salim gazing upon vacancy -like an idiot. Accompanied by his followers, who were -shouting and laughing, he left the house, when—I afterwards -heard—they drew their sabres, and waving them -round their heads, they shouted, for the benefit of -Arabs, “Tume-shinda Wazungu”—“We have conquered -the Whites!” I held a consultation with my -hosts concerning the advisability of disarming the recreant -sons of Ramji. But Sallum bin Hamid, the “papa” -of the colony, took up the word, and, as usual with such -deliberative bodies, the council of war advised peace. -They informed me that in Unyamwezi slaves and muskets -are the stranger’s sole protection, and as they were -unanimous in persuading me to temporise, to “swallow -anger” till after return, I felt bound, after applying -for it, to be guided by their advice. At the consultation, -however, the real object which delayed the sons -of Ramji at Kazeh oozed out: their patroon, Mr. -Rush Ramji, had written to them that his and their -trading outfit was on its way from the coast; consequently, -they had determined to await, and to make us -await, its arrival before marching upon Ujiji.</p> - -<p>On the 14th November, the Masika or wet season, -which had announced its approach by premonitory -showers and by a final burst of dry heat, set in over -the Land of the Moon with torrents of rain and “rain-stones,” -as hail is here called, and with storms of thunder -and lightning, which made it more resemble the first -breaking of an Indian than the desultory fall of a Zanzibar -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-379">[379]</span> -wet-monsoon. I was still under the impression -that we were encountering the Choti Barsat or Little -Rains of Bengal and Bombay; and curious to say, the -Arabs of Unyanyembe one and all declared, even after the -wet-monsoon had reached its height, that the Masika -in Unyamwezi is synchronous with that of the island -and the coast, namely, in early April.</p> - -<p>The Rains in Eastern Africa are, like the summer in -England, the only healthy and enjoyable season: the -contrast between the freshness of the air and the verdure -of the scenery after the heat, dust, and desolation -that preceded the first showers, was truly luxurious. -Yet the Masika has many disadvantages for travellers. -The Wanyamwezi, who were sowing their fields, declined -to act porters, and several Arab merchants, who -could not afford the expenditure required to hire unwilling -men, were halted perforce in and near Unyanyembe. -The peasants would come in numbers; offer to -accompany the caravan; stand, stare, and laugh their -vacant laughs; lift and balance their packs; chaffer -about hire; promise to return next morning, and definitively -disappear. With the utmost exertion Snay -bin Amir could collect only ten men, and they were all -ready to desert. Moreover, the opening of the Masika is -ever unhealthy; strangers suffer severely from all sudden -changes of temperature; Unyamwezi speedily became</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“As full of agues as the sun in March.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">Another cause of delay became imminent; my companion -was comparatively strong, but the others were -prostrated by sickness. Valentine first gave in; he was -nearly insensible for three days and nights, the usual -period of the Mukunguru or “Seasoning” of Unyamwezi—a -malignant bilious remittent—which left him -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-380">[380]</span> -weaker and thinner than he had ever been before. When -he recovered, Gaetano fell ill, and was soon in the happy -state of unconsciousness which distinguished all his -fevers. The bull-headed slave Mabruki also retired into -private life, and Bombay was laid up by a shaking ague, -whilst the Baloch and the sons of Ramji, who had -led a life so irregular that the Arabs had frequently -threatened them with punishment, also began to pay the -penalty of excess.</p> - -<p>Snay bin Amir was our principal doctor. An adept -in the treatment, called by his countrymen “camel-physic,” -namely, cautery and similar counter-irritants, -he tried his art upon me when I followed the example -of the party. At length, when the Hummah, or hot fit, -refused to yield to its supposed specific, a coating of -powdered ginger, he insisted upon my seeing a Mganga, -or witch, celebrated for her cures throughout the country-side. -She came, a wrinkled old beldame, with a -greasy skin, black as soot, set off by a mass of tin-coloured -pigtails: her arms were adorned with copper -bangles like manacles, and the implement of her craft -was, as usual, a girdle of small gourds dyed red-black -with oil and use.</p> - -<p>After demanding and receiving her fee in cloth, she -proceeded to search my mouth, and to inquire anxiously -concerning poison. The question showed the prevalence -of the practice in the country, and indeed the -people, to judge from their general use of “Mithridates,” -seem ever to expect it. She then drew from -a gourd a greenish powder, which was apparently bhang, -and having mixed it with water, she administered it -like snuff, causing a convulsion of sneezing, which she -hailed with shouts and various tokens of joy. Presently -she rubbed my head with powder of another kind, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-381">[381]</span> -promising to return the next day, she left me to rest, -declaring that sleep would cause a cure. The prediction, -however, was not fulfilled, nor was the promise. -Having become wealthy, she absconded to indulge -in unlimited pombe for a week. The usual consequences -of this “seasoning,” distressing weakness, hepatic -derangements, burning palms, and tingling soles, -aching eyes, and alternate thrills of heat and cold, -lasted, in my case, a whole month.</p> - -<p>Our departure from Kazeh had now been repeatedly -deferred. The fortnight originally fixed for the halt -had soon passed in the vain search for porters. Sickness -then delayed the journey till the 1st December, and -Snay bin Amir still opined that want of carriage would -detain me till the 19th of that month; he would not -name the 18th, which was an unlucky day. When they -recovered from their ailments, the Jemadar and the -Baloch again began to be troublesome. All declared -that a whole year, the term for which they had been -sent by their Prince, had elapsed, and therefore that -they had now a right to return. The period was wholly -one of their own, based perhaps upon an answer which -they had received from Lieut.-Col. Hamerton touching -the probable duration of the Expedition, “a year or -so.” Even of that time it still wanted five months, -but nothing from myself or from Said bin Salim could -convince men who would not be convinced, of that -simple fact. Ismail, the Baloch, who was dying of dysentery, -reported himself unable to proceed: arrangements -were made to leave him and his “brother” -Shahdad—the fearful tinkling of whose sleepless guitar -argued that the sweet youth was in love—under the -charge of Snay bin Amir, at Kazeh. Greybeard Mohammed -was sulking with his fellows. He sat apart from -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-382">[382]</span> -them; and complaining that he had not received his portion -of food, came to me for dismissal, which was granted, -but not accepted. The Jemadar required for himself -and the escort a porter per man. When this was -refused, he changed his tactics, and began to lament -bitterly the unavoidable delay. He annoyed me with -ceaseless visits, which were spent in harping upon the -one string, “When do we march?” At last I forbade -all allusion to the subject. In wrath he demanded leave, -declaring that he had not come to settle in Africa, and -much “excessiveness” to the same effect. He was at -last brought to his senses by being summarily turned -out of the house for grossly insulting my companion. -A reaction then ensued; the Baloch professed penitence, -and all declared themselves ready to march or to halt -as I pleased. Yet, simulating impatience to depart, they -clung to the pleasures of Kazeh; they secretly caused -the desertion of the porters, and they never ceased to -spread idle reports, vainly hoping that I might be induced -to return to the coast.</p> - -<p>Finally, Said bin Salim fulfilled at Kazeh Lieut.-Col. -Hamerton’s acute prophecy. The Bukini blood of his -mother—a Malagash slave—got the better of his Omani -descent. I had long reformed my opinion concerning -his generosity and kindheartedness, hastily concluded -during a short cruise along the coast. “Man’s heart,” -say the Arabs, “is known only in the fray, and man’s -head is known only on the way.” But though high-flown -sentiment and studied courtesy had disappeared -with the first days of hardship and fatigue, he preserved -for a time the semblance of respectability and respect. -Presently, like the viler orders of Orientals, he presumed -upon his usefulness, and his ability to forward -the Expedition; the farther we progressed from our -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-383">[383]</span> -“<i>point d’appui</i>” the coast, the more independent became -his manner,—of course it afterwards subsided -into its former civility,—and an overpowering egotism -formed the motive of his every action. I had imprudently -allowed him to be accompanied by the charming -Halimah. True to his servile origin, he never seemed -happy except in servile society, where he was “king of -his company.” At Kazeh, jealous of my regard for -Snay bin Amir, and wearied by long evening conversations, -where a little “ilm” or knowledge in the shape -of history and divinity used to appear,—his ignorance -and apathy concerning all things but A. bin B., and B. -bin C., who married his son D. to the daughter of E., prevented -his taking part in them,—he became first sulky, -and then “contrarious.” Formerly he was wont, on -the usual occasions, to address a word of salutation to -my companion: this ceased, and presently he would pass -him as if he had been a bale of cloth. He affected in -society the indecorous posture of a European woman -stretched upon a sofa, after crouching for months upon -his shins,—in fact he was, as the phrase is, “trailing -his jacket” for a quarrel.</p> - -<p>Through timidity he had been profuse in expending -the goods entrusted to his charge, and he had been repeatedly -reproved for serving out, without permission, -cloth and beads to his children. Yet, before reaching -Unyanyembe,I never had reason to suspect him of dishonesty -or deceit. At Kazeh, however, he was ordered -to sell a keg of gunpowder, before his slaves could purloin -the whole. He reported that he had passed on -the commission to Snay bin Amir. I also forbade him -to issue hire to porters for a return-march from the -Lake, having been informed that such was the best way -to secure their desertion; and the information proved -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-384">[384]</span> -true enough, as twenty-five disappeared in a single -night. He repeatedly affirmed that he had engaged -and paid them for the up-march only. When he stood -convicted of a double falsehood, he had <i>not</i> spoken -about the gunpowder, and he <i>had</i> issued whole hire to -several of the porters, I improved the occasion with a -mild reproach. The little creature became vicious as -a weasel, screamed like a hyæna, declared himself no -tallab or “asker,” but an official under his government, -and poured forth a torrent of justification. I -cut the same short by leaving the room—a confirmed -slight in these lands—and left him to rough language -on the part of Snay bin Amir. Some hours subsequently -he recovered his temper, and observed that -“even husband and wife must occasionally have a gird -at each other.” Not caring, however, for a repetition -of such puerilities, I changed the tone of kindness in -which he had invariably been addressed, for one of -routine command, and this was preserved till the day -of our final parting on the coast.</p> - -<p>The good Snay bin Amir redoubled his attentions. -His slaves strung in proper lengths, upon the usual -palm-fibre, the beads sent up loose from Zanzibar; and -he distributed the bales in due proportions for carriage. -Our lights being almost exhausted, he made for us -“dips,” by ladling over wicks of unravelled “domestics” -the contents of a cauldron filled with equal -parts of hot wax and tallow. My servant, Valentine, -who, evincing uncommon aptitude for cooking, had as -yet acquired only that wretched art of burlesquing -coarse English dishes which renders the table in Western -India a standing mortification to man’s palate, was -apprenticed to Mama Khamisi, a buxom housekeeper -in Snay’s establishment. There, in addition to his -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-385">[385]</span> -various Goanese accomplishments—making curds and -whey, butter, cheese, and ghee; potting fish, pickling -onions and limes, and preparing jams and jelly -from the pleasant and cooling rosel,—he learned the -art of yeasting bread with whey or sour bean-flour -(his leathery scones of coarse meal were an abomination -to us); of straining honey, of preparing the favourite -“Kawurmeh,” jerked or smoked meat chipped up and -soused in ghee; of making Firni, rice-jelly, and Halwa, -confectionery, in the shape of “Kazi’s luggage,” and -“hand-works:” he was taught to make ink from -burnt grain; and last, not least, the trick of boiling -rice as it should be boiled. We, in turn, taught him -the various sciences of bird-stuffing, of boiling down -isinglass and ghee, of doctoring tobacco with plantain, -heeart, and tea leaves, and of making milk-punch, cigars, -and guraku for the hookah. Snay bin Amir also sent into -the country for plantains and tamarinds, then unprocurable -at Kazeh, and he brewed a quantity of beer and -mawa or plantain-wine. He admonished the Baloch -and the sons of Ramji to be more careful, as regards -conduct and expenditure. He lent me valuable -assistance in sketching the outlines of the Kinyamwezi, -or language of Unyamwezi, and by his distances and -directions we were enabled to lay down the Southern -limits, and the general shape of the Nyanza or Northern -Lake, as correctly—and the maps forwarded from Kazeh -to the Royal Geographical Society will establish this fact—as -they were subsequently determined, after actual -exploration, by my companion. He took charge of our -letters and papers intended for home, and he undertook -to forward the lagging gang still expected from the -Coast: as the future will prove, his energy enabled me to -receive the much wanted reserve in the “nick of time.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-386">[386]</span></p> - -<p>At length, it became apparent that no other porters -were procurable at Kazeh, and that the restiff Baloch -and the sons of Ramji disdaining Cæsar’s “ite,” required -his “venite.” I therefore resolved to lead them, instead -of expending time and trouble in driving them, trusting -that old habit, and that the difficulties attending their -remaining behind would induce them to follow me. -After much murmuring, my companion preceded me on -the 5th December, and “made a Khambi,” at Zimbili, -a lumpy hill, with a north and south lay, and conspicuous -as a landmark from the Arab settlements, -which are separated from it by a march of two hours. -On the third day I followed him, in truth, more dead -than alive,—the wing of Azrael seemed waving over my -head,—even the movement of the Manchila was almost -unendurable. I found cold and comfortless quarters in a -large village at the base of Zimbili, no cartel was procurable, -the roof leaked, and every night brought with it -a furious storm of lightning, wind, and rain. By slow -degrees, the Baloch began to drop in, a few of the -sons of Ramji, and the donkey-men followed, half-a-dozen -additional porters were engaged, and I was -recovering strength to advance once more, when the -report that our long-expected caravan was halted at -Rubuga, in consequence of desertion, rendered a -further delay necessary. My companion returned to -Kazeh, to await the arrival of the reserve-supplies, and -I proceeded onwards to collect a gang for the journey -westwards.</p> - -<p>At 10 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, on the 15th December, I mounted the -Manchila, carried by six slaves, hired by Snay bin -Amir, from Khamis bin Salim at the rate of three -pounds of white beads each, for the journey to Msene. -After my long imprisonment, I was charmed with the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-387">[387]</span> -prospect, a fine open country, with well-wooded hills -rolling into blue distance on either hand. A two -hours’ ride placed me at Yombo, a new and picturesque -village of circular tents, surrounded by plantains and -wild fruit-trees. The Mkuba bears an edible red plum, -which, though scanty of flesh, as usual, where man’s -care is wanting, was found by no means unpalatable. -The Metrongoma produces a chocolate-coloured fruit, -about the size of a cherry: it is eaten, but it lacks the -grateful acid of the Mkuba. The gigantic Palmyra or -Borassus, which failed in the barren platform of Ugogo, -here re-appears, and hence extends to the Tanganyika -Lake.</p> - -<p>I halted two days at Yombo: the situation was low -and unhealthy, and provisions were procurable in -homœopathic quantities. My only amusement there -was to watch the softer part of the population. At -eventide, when the labours of the day were past and -done, the villagers came home in a body, laden with -their implements of cultivation, and singing a kind of -“dulce domum,” in a simple and pleasing recitative. -The sunset hour, in the “Land of the Moon,” is -replete with enjoyments. The sweet and balmy breeze -floats in waves, like the draught of a fan; the sky is -softly and serenely blue; the fleecy clouds, stationary in -the upper firmament, are robed in purple and gold, and -the beautiful blush, crimsoning the west, is reflected -by all the features of earth. At this time, all is life. -The vulture soars with silent flight, high in the blue -expanse; the small birds preen themselves for the night, -and sing their evening hymns; the antelopes prepare to -couch in the bush; the cattle and flocks frisk and -gamble, whilst driven from their pastures; and the -people busy themselves with the simple pleasures that -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-388">[388]</span> -end the day. Every evening there is a smoking party, -which particularly attracts my attention. All the feminine -part of the population, from wrinkled grandmother -to the maiden scarcely in her teens, assemble together, -and sitting in a circle upon dwarf stools and logs of -wood, apply themselves to their long black-bowl’d pipes.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Sæpe illæ long-cut vel short-cut flare tobacco<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Sunt solitæ pipos.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">They smoke with an intense enjoyment, slowly and -deeply inhaling the glorious weed, and exhaling clouds -from their nostrils; at times they stop to cool the -mouth with slices of raw manioc, or cobs of green -maize roasted in the ashes; and often some earnest matter -of local importance causes the pipes to be removed -for a few minutes, and a clamour of tongues breaks the -usual silence. The pipe also requires remark: the bowl -is of imperfect material—the clay being half-baked—but -the shape is perfect. The African tapering cone is -far superior to the European bowl: the former gives as -much smoke as possible whilst the tobacco is fresh and -untainted, and as little when it becomes hot and unpleasant; -the latter acts on the contrary principle. -Amongst the fair of Yombo, there were no less than -three beauties—women who would be deemed beautiful -in any part of the world. Their faces were purely -Grecian; they had laughing eyes, their figures were -models for an artist, <span class="nowrap">with—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Turgide, brune e ritondette mamme,”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">like the “bending statue that delights the world” -cast in bronze. The dress—a short kilt of calabash -fibre,—rather set off than concealed their charms, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-389">[389]</span> -though destitute of petticoat or crinoline they were -wholly unconscious of indecorum. It is a question that -by no means can be positively answered in the affirmative, -that real modesty is less in proportion to the absence -of toilette. These “beautiful domestic animals” -graciously smiled when in my best Kinyamwezi I did -my devoir to the sex; and the present of a little -tobacco always secured for me a seat in the undress -circle.</p> - -<p>After hiring twenty porters—five lost no time in -deserting—and mustering the Baloch, of whom eleven -now were present, I left Yombo on the 18th December, -and passing through a thick green jungle, with low, -wooded, and stony hills rising on the left hand, to about -4000 feet above sea-level, I entered the little settlement -of Pano. The next day brought us to the -clearing of Mfuto, a broad, populous, and fertile rolling -plain, where the stately tamarind flourished to perfection. -A third short march, through alternate patches -of thin wood and field, studded with granite blocks, led -to Irora, a village in Western Mfuto, belonging to Salim -bin Salih, an Arab from Mbuamaji, and a cousin of -Said bin Mohammed, my former travelling companion, -who had remained behind at Kazeh. This individual, -a fat, pulpy, and dingy-coloured mulatto, appeared -naked to the waist, and armed with bow and arrows: he -received me surlily, and when I objected to a wretched -cow-shed outside his palisade, he suddenly waxed -furious: he raved like a madman, shook his silly bow, and -declared that he ignored the name of the Sayyid Majid, -being himself as good a “Sultan” as any other. He -became pacified on perceiving that his wrath excited -nothing but the ridicule of the Baloch, found a better -lodging, sent a bowl of fresh milk wherein to drown -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-390">[390]</span> -differences, and behaved on this and a subsequent occasion -more like an Arab Shaykh, than an African -headman.</p> - -<p>On the 22nd December my companion rejoined me, -bringing four loads of cloth, three of beads, and seven -of brass wire: they formed part of the burden of the -twenty-two porters who were to join the Expedition ten -days after its departure from the coast. The Hindus, -Ladha Damha and Mr. Rush Ramji, after the decease of -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, had behaved with culpable -neglect. The cloth was of the worst and flimsiest description; -the beads were the cheap white and the useless -black—the latter I was obliged to throw away; and -as they sent up the supply without other guard than two -armed slaves, “Mshindo” and “Kirikhota,” the consequence -was that the pair had plundered <i>ad libitum</i>. No -letters had been forwarded, and no attention had been -paid to my repeated requests for drugs and other stores. -My companion’s new gang, levied at Kazeh, affected the -greatest impatience. They refused to halt for a day,—even -Christmas day. They proposed double marches, and -they resolved to proceed by the straight road to Msene. -It was deemed best to humour them. They arrived, -however, at their destination only one day before my -party, who travelled leisurely, and who followed the -longer and the more cultivated route.</p> - -<p>We left Irora on the 23rd December, and marched from -sunrise till noon to the district of Eastern Wilyankuru. -There we again separated. On the next day I passed -alone through the settlement called Muinyi Chandi, -where certain Arabs from Oman had built large Tembe, -to serve as barracoons and warehouses. This district -supplies the adjoining countries with turmeric, of which -very little grows in Unyanyembe. After this march disappeared -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-391">[391]</span> -the last of the six hammals who had been hired -to carry the hammocks. They were as unmanageable -as wild asses, ever grumbling and begging for “kitoweyo,”—“kitchen;”—constitutionally -unfitted to obey -an order; disposed, as the noble savage generally is, to be -insolent; and, like all porters in this part of the world, -unable to carry a palanquin. Two men, instead of four, -insisted upon bearing the hammock; thus overburdened -and wishing to get over the work, they hurried -themselves till out of breath. When one was fagged, -the man that should have relieved him was rarely to be -found, consequently two or three stiff trudges knocked -them up and made them desert. Said bin Salim, the -Jemadar, and the Baloch, doubtlessly impressed with -the belief that my days were numbered, passed me on -the last march without a word—the sun was hot, and -they were hastening to shade—and left me with only -two men to carry the hammock, in a dangerous strip of -jungle where, shortly afterwards, Salim bin Masud, an -Arab merchant of Msene, was murdered.</p> - -<p>On Christmas day I again mounted ass, and passing -through the western third of the Wilyankuru district, -was hospitably received by a wealthy proprietor, Salim -bin Said, surnamed, probably on account of his stature, -Simba, or the Lion, who had obtained from the Sultan -Mrorwa permission to build a large Tembe. The worthy -and kind-hearted Arab exerted himself strenuously to -promote the comfort of his guest. He led me to a comfortable -lodging, placed a new cartel in the coolest room, -supplied meat, milk, and honey, and spent the evening -in conversation with me. He was a large middle-aged -man, with simple, kindly manners, and an honesty of -look and words which rendered his presence exceedingly -prepossessing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-392">[392]</span></p> - -<p>After a short and eventless march, on the 26th December, -to Masenge, I reached on the following day the -little clearing of Kirira. I was unexpectedly welcomed -by two Arabs, Masud ibn Musallam el Wardi, and Hamid -bin Ibrahim el Amuri. The former, an old man of the -Beni Bu Ali clan, and personally familiar with Sir Lionel -Smith’s exploits, led me into the settlement, which was -heaped round with a tall green growth of milkbush, and -placed me upon a cartel in the cool and spacious barzah -or vestibule of the Tembe. From my vantage-ground I -enjoyed the pleasant prospect of those many little miseries -which Orientals—perhaps not only Orientals—create -for themselves by “ceremony” and “politeness.” Weary -and fagged by sun and dust, the Baloch were kept standing -for nearly half an hour before the preliminaries to -sitting down could be arranged and the party could be -marshalled in proper order,—the most honourable man -on the left hand of the host, and the “lower class” off -the dais or raised step;—and, when they commenced to -squat, they reposed upon their shins, and could not remove -their arms or accoutrements till especially invited -to hang them up. Hungry and thirsty, they dared not -commit the solecism of asking for food or drink; they -waited from 9 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> till noon, sometimes eyeing the door -with wistful looks, but generally affecting an extreme -indifference as to feeding. At length came the meal, a -mountain of rice, capped with little boulders of mutton. -It was allowed to cool long before precedence round the -tray was settled, and ere the grace, “Bismillah,”—the -signal to “set to,”—was reverentially asked by Said bin -Salim. Followed a preparation of curdled milk, for which -spoons being requisite, a wooden ladle did the necessary. -There was much bustling and not a little importance about -Hamid, the younger host, a bilious subject twenty-four or -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-393">[393]</span> -twenty-five years old, who for reasons best known to himself -assumed the style and title of Sarkal,—Government servant. -The meal concluded with becoming haste, and was -followed by that agreeable appearance of repletion which -is so pleasing to the Oriental Amphitryon. The Baloch -returned to squat upon their shins, and they must have -suffered agonies till 5 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, when the appearance of a -second and a more ceremonious repast enabled them once -more to perch upon their heels. It was hard eating -this time; the shorwa, or mutton broth, thickened with -melted butter, attracted admiration; the guests, however, -could only hint at its excellences, because in the East -if you praise a man’s meat you intend to slight his society. -The <i>plat de résistance</i> was, as usual, the pillaw, -or, as it is here called, pulao,—not the conventional mess -of rice and fowl, almonds and raisins, onion-shreds, cardomoms, -and other abominations, which goes by that -name amongst Anglo-Indians, but a solid heap of rice, -boiled after being greased with a handful of <span class="nowrap">ghee—</span></p> - -<p>(I must here indulge in a little digression. For the past -century, which concluded with reducing India to the -rank of a British province, the proud invader has eaten -her rice after a fashion which has secured for him the contempt -of the East. He deliberately boils it, and after -drawing off the nutritious starch or gluten called “conjee,” -which forms the perquisite of his Portuguese or his -Pariah cook, he is fain to fill himself with that which has -become little more nutritious than the prodigal’s husks. -Great, indeed, is the invader’s ignorance upon that point. -Peace be to the manes of Lord Macaulay, but listen to and -wonder at his eloquent words!—“The Sepoys came to -Clive, not to complain of their scanty fare, but to propose -that all the grain should be given to the Europeans, who -required more nourishment than the natives of Asia. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-394">[394]</span> -thin gruel, they said, which was strained away from the -rice would suffice for themselves. History contains no -more touching instance of military fidelity, or of the -influence of a commanding mind.” Indians never fail -to drink the “conjee.” The Arab, on the other hand, -mingles with his rice a sufficiency of ghee to prevent -the extraction of the “thin gruel,” and thus makes the -grain as palatable and as nutritious as Nature intended -it to be.)</p> - -<p>—and dotted over with morsels of fowl, so boiled that -they shredded like yarn under the teeth. This repast -again concluded with a bowl of sweetened milk, and -other entremets, for which both hosts amply apologised; -the house had lately been burned down, and -honey had been used instead of sugar. The day concluded -with prayers, with a seance in the verandah -and with drinking fresh milk out of gourds—a state of -things which again demanded excuses. A multitude of -“Washenzi” thronged into the house, especially during -the afternoon, to gaze at the Muzungu. I was formally -presented to the Sultan Kafrira, a tall and wrinkled elder, -celebrated for ready wits and spear. The sons of -Ramji had often looked in at the door whilst preparations -for feeding were going on, but they were not asked -to sit down: the haughty host had provided them with -a lean goat, in return for which they privily expressed -an opinion that he was a “dog.” Masud, boasting of -his intimacy with the Sultan Msimbira, whose subjects -had plundered our portmanteau, offered on return to -Unyanyembe his personal services in ransoming it. -I accepted with joy; but the Shaykh Masud, as afterwards -proved, nearly “left his skin” in the undertaking.</p> - -<p>The climate of Kíríra is called by the Arabs a medicine. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-395">[395]</span> -They vaunt its virtues, which become apparent -after the unhealthy air of Kazeh, and after a delicious -night spent in the cool barzah, I had no reason to question -its reputation. I arose in the morning wonderfully -refreshed, and Valentine, who had been prostrated -with fever throughout the day, became another man. Yet -the situation was apparently unpropitious; the Gombe -Nullah, the main drain of this region, a line of stagnant -pools, belted with almost impassable vegetation, lies -hard by, and the background is an expanse of densest -jungle.</p> - -<p>Three short and eventless marches through thick -jungle, with scattered clearings, led me, on the 30th -December, to the district of Msene, where the dense -wild growth lately traversed suddenly opens out and -discloses to the west a broad view of admirable fertility. -Before entering the settlements, the caravan halted, as -usual, to form up. We then progressed with the usual -pomp and circumstance; the noise was terrific, and the -streets, or rather the spaces between the houses, were -lined with Negroid spectators. I was led to the Tembe -of one Saadullah, a low-caste Msawahili, and there -found my companion looking but poorly. Gaetano, his -“boy,” was so excited by the scene, that he fell down -in a fit closely resembling epilepsy.</p> - -<p>Msene, the chief Bandari of Western Unyamwezi, may -be called the capital of the Coast Arabs and the Wasawahili, -who, having a natural antipathy to their brethren -of Oman, have abandoned to them Unyanyembe and its -vicinity. Of late years, however, the Omani merchants, -having been driven from the neighbouring districts by -sundry murders into Msene, may at times be met there -to the number of four or five. The inhabitants are -chiefly Wasumbwá, a subtribe of the Wanyamwezi race. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-396">[396]</span> -There is, however, besides Arabs and Wasawahili, a -large floating population of the pastoral clan called -Watosi, and fugitives from Uhha. In 1858 the chief of -Msene was the Sultan Masanza. Both he and Funza, his -brother, were hospitable and friendly to travellers, especially -to the Arabs, who but a few years ago beat off -with their armed slaves a large plundering party of the -ferocious Watuta. This chief has considerable power, and -the heads of many criminals elevated upon poles in front -of his several villages show that he rules with a firm -hand. He is never approached by a subject without -the clapping of hands and the kneeling which in these -lands are the honours paid to royalty. He was a large-limbed, -gaunt, and sinewy old man, dressed in a dirty -Subai or Arab check, over a coating of rancid butter, with -a broad brass disk, neatly arabesqued, round his neck, -with a multitude of little pigtails where his head was -not bald, and with some thirty sambo or flexible wire -rings deforming, as if by elephantiasis, his ankles. Like -the generality of sultans, he despises beads as an article -of decoration, preferring coils of brass or copper. He -called several times at the house occupied by the Expedition, -and on more than one occasion brought with him -a bevy of wives, whose deportment was, I regret to say, -rather naïve than decorous.</p> - -<p>Msene, like Unyanyembe, is not a town, but a mass -of detached settlements, which are unconscious of a regular -street. To the northwards lie the villages of the -Sultan—Kwihángá and Yovu. These are surrounded -with a strong stockade, a deep moat, and a thick milk-bush -hedge, intended for defence. The interior is occupied -by thatched circular huts, divided by open -squarelike spaces, and wynds and alleys are formed by -milk-bush hedges and palisades. There are distinct -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-397">[397]</span> -places for the several wives, families, and slaves. The -other settlements—Mbugání (“in the wild”) and Mji Mpia -(“new town”), the latter being the place affected by the -Wasawahili—cluster in a circle, separated by short cross-roads, -which after rain are ankle-deep in mud, from -Chyámbo, the favourite locale of the Coast Arabs. This -settlement, which contained in 1858 nine large Tembe -and about 150 huts, boasts of an African attempt at a -soko or bazar, a clear space between the houses, where, -in fine weather, bullocks are daily slaughtered for food, -and where grain, vegetables, and milk are exposed for -sale. At Msene a fresh outfit of cloth, beads, and wire -can be procured for a price somewhat higher than at -Unyanyembe. The merchants have small stores of -drugs and spices, and sometimes a few comforts, as -coffee, tea, and sugar. The latter is generally made of -granulated honey, and therefore called sukárí zá ásalí. -The climate of Msene is damp, the neighbouring hills -and the thickly-vegetated country attracting an abundance -of rain. It is exceedingly unhealthy, the result -doubtless of filth in the villages and stagnant waters -spread over the land. The Gombe Nullah, which runs -through the district, about six hours’ march from -the settlements, discharges after rain its superfluous -contents into the many lakelets, ponds, and swamps of -the lowlands. Fertilised by a wet monsoon, whose floods -from the middle of October to May are interrupted only -by bursts of fervent heat, the fat, black soil manured by -the decay of centuries, reproduces abundantly anything -committed to it. Flowers bloom spontaneously over -the flats, and trees put forth their richest raiment. Rice -of the red quality—the white is rare and dear—grows -with a density and a rapidity unknown in Eastern Unyamwezi. -Holcus and millet, maize and manioc, are -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-398">[398]</span> -plentiful enough to be exported. Magnificent palmyras, -bauhinias and sycomores, plantains, and papaws, and a -host of wild fruit-trees, especially the tamarind, which -is extensively used, adorn the land. The other productions -are onions, sweet potatoes, and egg-plants, which -are cultivated; turmeric, brought from the vicinity; -tomatos and bird-pepper, which grow wild; pulse, -beans, pumpkins, water-melons, excellent mushrooms, -and edible fungi. Milk, poultry, honey, and tobacco -are cheap and plentiful. The currency at Msene in -1858—the date is specified, as the medium is liable to -perpetual and sudden change, often causing severe losses -to merchants, who, after laying in a large outfit of -certain beads, find them suddenly unfashionable, and -therefore useless—was the “pipe-stem,” white and blue -porcelain-beads, called sofi in the string, and individually -msaro. Of these ten were sufficient to purchase -a pound of beef. The other beads in demand were the -sungomaji, or pigeon-egg, the red-coral, the pink-porcelain, -and the shell-decorations called kiwangwa. The -cheaper varieties may be exchanged for grain and -vegetables, but they will not purchase fowls, milk, and -eggs. At this place only, the palmyra is tapped for -toddy; in other parts of East Africa the people are unable -to climb it. The market at Msene is usually somewhat -cheaper than that of Unyanyembe, but at times -the prices become very exorbitant.</p> - -<p>The industry of Msene is confined to manufacturing -a few cotton cloths, coarse mats, clay pipeheads, and -ironmongery. As might be expected from the constitution -of its society, Msene is a place of gross debauchery, -most grateful to the African mind. All, from -sultan to slave, are intoxicated whenever the material -is forthcoming, and the relations between the sexes are -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-399">[399]</span> -of the loosest description. The drum is never silent, -and the dance fills up the spare intervals of carouse, -till exhausted nature can no more. The consequence -is, that caravans invariably lose numbers by desertion -when passing through Msene. Even household slaves, -born and bred upon the coast, cannot tear themselves -from its Circean charms.</p> - -<p>There was “cold comfort” at Msene, where I was -delayed twelve days. The clay roof of the Tembe -was weed-grown like a deserted grave, and in the foul -patio or central court-yard only dirty puddles set in -black mud met the eye. The weather was what only -they can realise who are familiar with a “Rainy -Monsoon.” The temptations of the town rendered it -almost impossible to keep a servant or a slave within -doors; the sons of Ramji vigorously engaged themselves -in trading, and Muinyi Wazira in a debauch, which -ended in his dismissal. Gaetano had repeated epileptic -fits, and Valentine rushed into the room half-crying to -show a white animalcule—in this country called Funza—which -had lately issued from his “buff.” None of -the half-caste Arabs, except I’d and Khalfan, sons of -Muallim Salim, the youths who had spread evil reports -concerning us in Ugogo and elsewhere, called or showed -any civility, and the only Arab at that time resident at -Msene was the old Salim bin Masud. I received several -visits from the Sultan Masanza. His first greeting -was, “White man, what pretty thing hast thou brought -up from the shore for me?” He presented a bullock, and -received in return several cloths and strings of beads, and -he introduced to us a variety of princesses, who returned -the salutes of the Baloch and others with a wild effusion. -As Christmas-day had been spent in marching, I -hailed the opportunity of celebrating the advent of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-400">[400]</span> -New Year. Said bin Salim, the Jemadar, and several -of the guard, were invited to an English dinner on a -fair sirloin of beef, and a curious succedaneum for a -plum-pudding, where neither flour nor currants were to -be found. A characteristic trait manifested itself on -this occasion. Amongst Arabs, the remnants of a feast -must always be distributed to the servants and slaves of -the guests;—a “brass knocker” would lose a man’s -reputation. Knowing this, I had ordered the Goanese -to do in Rome as the Romans do; and being acquainted -with their peculiarities, I paid them an unexpected visit, -where they were found so absorbed in the task of hiding, -under pots and pans, every better morsel from a crowd -of hungry peerers that the interruption of a stick was -deemed necessary.</p> - -<p>At length, on the 10th January, 1858, I left Msene -with considerable difficulty. The Kirangozi, or guide, -who had promised to accompany me, had sent an incompetent -substitute, his brother, a raw young lad, who -had no power to collect porters. The sons of Ramji -positively refused to lend their aid in strengthening -the gang. One of Said bin Salim’s children, the boy -Faraj, had fled to Kazeh. The bull-headed Mabruki -was brought back from flight only by the persuasion of -his brother “Bombay,” and even “Bombay,” under -the influence of some negroid Neæra, at the time of departure -hid himself in his hut. All feared the march -westwards. A long strip of blue hill lying northwards -ever keeps the traveller in mind of the robber Watuta, -and in places where the clans are mixed, all are -equally hostile to strangers. Villages are less frequented -and more meanly built, and caravans are not admitted -beyond the faubourgs—the miserable huts outlying the -fences. The land also is most unhealthy. After the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-401">[401]</span> -rain, the rich dark loam becomes, like the black soils of -Guzerat and the Deccan, a coat of viscid mire. Above is -a canopy of cumulus and purple nimbus, that discharge -their loads in copious day-long floods. The vegetation -is excessive, and where there is no cultivation a dense -matting of coarse grass, laid by wind and water and decayed -by mud, veils the earth, and from below rises a -clammy chill, like the thaw-cold of England, the effect of -extreme humidity. And, finally, the paths are mere -lines, pitted with deep holes, and worn by cattle -through the jungle.</p> - -<p>After an hour and thirty minutes’ march I entered -Mb’hali, the normal cultivator’s village in Western Unyamwezi;—a -heap of dwarf huts like inverted birds’ nests -surrounding a central space, and surrounded by giant -heaps of euphorbia or milk-bush. Tall grasses were -growing almost up to the door-ways, and about the settlement -were scattered papaws and plantains; the -Mwongo, with its damson-like fruit, the Mtogwe or wood-apple -tree, and the tall solitary Palmyra, whose high -columnar stem, with its graceful central swell, was eminently -attractive. We did not delay at Mb’hali, whence -provisions had been exhausted by the markets of Msene. -The 11th January led us through a dense jungle upon -a dead flat, succeeded by rolling ground bordered with -low hills and covered with alternate bush and cultivation, -to Sengati, another similar verdure-clad village of -peasantry, where rice and other supplies were procurable. -On the 12th January, after passing over a dead -flat of fields and of the rankest grass, we entered rolling -ground in the vicinity of the Gombe Nullah, with scattered -huts upon the rises, and villages built close to the -dense vegetation bordering upon the stream. Sorora or -Solola is one of the deadliest spots in Unyamwezi; we -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-402">[402]</span> -were delayed there, however, three long days, by the -necessity of collecting a two months’ supply of rice, -which is rarely to be obtained further west.</p> - -<p>The non-appearance of the sons of Ramji rendered -it necessary to take a strong step. I could ill afford the -loss of twelve guns, but Kidogo and his men had become -insufferable: moreover, they had openly boasted -that they intended to prevent my embarking upon the -“Sea of Ujiji.” Despite therefore the persuasions of -the Jemadar and Said bin Salim, who looked as if -they had heard their death-warrants, I summoned the -slaves, who first condescended to appear on the 13th -January—three days after my departure,—informed -them that the six months for which they were engaged -and paid had expired, and that they had better -return and transact their proprietor’s business at Kazeh. -They changed, it is true, their tone and manner, pathetically -pleaded, as an excuse for their ill conduct, that -they were slaves, and promised in future to be the most -obedient of servants. But they had deceived me too -often, and I feared that, if led forwards, they might -compromise the success of the exploration. They were -therefore formally dismissed, with a supply of cloth and -beads sufficient to reach Kazeh, a letter to their master, -and another paper to Snay bin Amir, authorising him -to frank them to their homes. Kidogo departed, declaring -that he would carry off perforce, if necessary, -the four donkey-drivers who had been engaged and -paid for the journey to the “Sea of Ujiji” and back: -as two of these men, Nasibu and Hassani, openly threatened -to desert, they were at once put in irons and -entrusted to the Baloch. They took oaths on the -Koran, and, by strong swearing, persuaded Said bin -Salim and their guard to obtain my permission for -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-403">[403]</span> -their release. I gave it unwillingly, and on the next -march they “levanted,” carrying off, as runaway slaves -are wont to do, a knife, some cloth, and other necessaries -belonging to Sangora, a brother donkey-driver. Sangora -returning without leave, to recover his goods, was seized, -tied up, and severely fustigated by the inexorable Kidogo, -for daring to be retained whilst he himself was -dismissed.</p> - -<p>The Kirangozi and Bombay having rejoined at Sorora, -the Expedition left it on the 16th January. Traversing -a fetid marsh, the road plunged into a forest, -and crossed a sharp elbow of the Gombe Nullah, upon -whose grassy and reedy banks lay a few dilapidated -“baumrinden” canoes, showing that at times the bed -becomes unfordable. Having passed that night at -Ukungwe, and the next at Panda, dirty little villages, -where the main of the people’s diet seemed to be -mushrooms resembling ours and a large white fungus -growing over the grassy rises, on the 18th January we -entered Kajjanjeri.</p> - -<p>Kajjanjeri appeared in the shape of a circle of round -huts. Its climate is ever the terror of travellers: to -judge from the mud and vegetation covering the floors, -the cultivators of the fields around usually retire to -another place during the rainy season. Here a formidable -obstacle to progress presented itself. I had been -suffering for some days: the miasmatic air of Sorora -had sown the seeds of fresh illness. About 3 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, I -was obliged to lay aside the ephemeris by an unusual -sensation of nervous irritability, which was followed by -a general shudder as in the cold paroxysm of fevers. -Presently the extremities began to weigh and to burn -as if exposed to a glowing fire, and a pair of jack-boots, -the companions of many a day and night, became too -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-404">[404]</span> -tight and heavy to wear. At sunset, the attack had -reached its height. I saw yawning wide to receive me</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent4">“those dark gates across the wild<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">That no man knows.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">The whole body was palsied, powerless, motionless, -and the limbs appeared to wither and die; the feet had -lost all sensation, except a throbbing and tingling, as if -pricked by a number of needle points; the arms refused -to be directed by will, and to the hands the touch of -cloth and stone was the same. Gradually the attack -seemed to spread upwards till it compressed the ribs; -there, however, it stopped short.</p> - -<p>This, at a distance of two months from medical aid, -and with the principal labour of the Expedition still in -prospect! However, I was easily consoled. Hope, says -the Arab, is woman, Despair is man. If one of us was -lost, the other might survive to carry home the results -of the exploration. I had undertaken the journey in the -“nothing-like-leather” state of mind, with the resolve -either to do or die. I had done my best, and now -nothing appeared to remain for me but to die as well.</p> - -<p>Said bin Salim, when sent for, declared, by a “la -haul!” the case beyond his skill; it was one of partial -paralysis brought on by malaria, with which the -faculty in India are familiar. The Arab consulted -a Msawahili Fundi, or caravan-guard, who had joined -us on the road, and this man declared that a similar -accident had once occurred to himself and his little party -in consequence of eating poisoned mushrooms. I tried -the usual remedies without effect, and the duration of -the attack presently revealed what it was. The contraction -of the muscles, which were tightened like ligatures -above and below the knees, and those λυτα γουνατα, -a pathological symptom which the old Greek loves to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-405">[405]</span> -specify, prevented me from walking to any distance for -nearly a year; the numbness of the hands and feet -disappeared even more slowly. The Fundi, however, -successfully predicted that I should be able to move in -ten days—on the tenth I again mounted my ass.</p> - -<p>This unforeseen misfortune detained the caravan -at Kajjanjeri till porters could be procured for the -hammock. On the 21st January four men were with -difficulty persuaded to carry me over the first march to -Usagozi. This gang was afterwards increased to six -men, who severally received six cloths for the journey -to Ujiji; they all “bolted” eight days after their engagement, -and before completing half the journey. These -men were sturdier than the former set of Hammals, -but being related to the Sultan of Usagozi, they were -even more boisterous, troublesome, and insolent. One -of them narrowly escaped a pistol bullet; he ceased, -however, stabbing with his dagger at the slave Mabruki -before the extreme measure became necessary.</p> - -<p>Usagozi was of old the capital province of Unyamwezi, -and is still one of its principal and most civilised divisions. -Some authorities make Usagozi the western -frontier of Unyamwezi, others place the boundary at -Mukozimo, a few miles to the westward; it is certain, -however, that beyond Usagozi the Wanyamwezi are -but part-proprietors of the soil. The country is laid -out in alternate seams of grassy plains, dense jungle, -and fertile field. The soil is a dark vegetable humus, -which bears luxuriant crops of grain, vegetables, and -tobacco; honey-logs hang upon every large tree, cattle -are sold to travellers, and the people are deterred by the -aspect of a dozen discoloured skulls capping tall poles, -planted in a semicircle at the main entrance of each -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-406">[406]</span> -settlement, from doing violence to caravans. When I -visited Usagozi it was governed by “Sultan Ryombo,” -an old chief “adorned with much Christian courtesy.” -His subjects are Wakalaganza, the noble tribe of the -Wanyamwezi, mixed, however with the Watosi, a fine-looking -race, markedly superior to their neighbours, but -satisfied with leaky, ragged, and filthy huts, and large -but unfenced villages. The general dress of the Wakalaganza -is bark-cloth, stained a dull black.</p> - -<p>We halted three days on the western extremity of -the Usagozi district, detained by another unpleasant -phenomenon. My companion, whose blood had been -impoverished, and whose system had been reduced by -many fevers, now began to suffer from “an inflammation -of a low type, affecting the whole of the interior -tunic of the eyes, particularly the iris, the choroid coat, -and the retina;” he describes it as “an almost total -blindness, rendering every object enclouded as by a -misty veil.” The Goanese Valentine became similarly -afflicted, almost on the same day; he complained of a -“drop serene” in the shape of an inky blot—probably -some of the black pigment of the iris deposited on the -front of the lens—which completely excluded the light -of day; yet the pupils contracted with regularity when -covered with the hand, and as regularly dilated when it -was removed. I suffered in a minor degree; for a few -days webs of flitting muscæ obscured smaller objects and -rendered distant vision impossible. My companion and -servant, however, subsequently, at Ujiji, were tormented -by inflammatory ophthalmia, which I escaped by the free -use of “camel-medicine.”</p> - -<p>Quitting Usagozi on the 26th January, we marched -through grain fields, thick jungle-strips, and low grassy -and muddy savannahs to Masenza, a large and comfortable -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-407">[407]</span> -village of stray Wagara or Wagala, an extensive -tribe, limiting Unyamwezi on the S. and S.E., at the -distance of about a week’s march from the road. On -the 27th January, after traversing cultivation, thick -jungles, and low muddy bottoms of tall grass chequered -with lofty tamarinds, we made the large well-palisadoed -villages of the Mukozimo district, inhabited by a mixture -of Wanyamwezi, with Wagara from the S.E. and -Wawende from the S.W. The headman of one of these -inhospitable “Kaya,” or fenced hamlets, would not -house “men who ride asses.” The next station was -Uganza, a populous settlement of Wawende, who admitted -us into their faubourg, but refused to supply provisions. -The 29th January saw us at the populous and -fertile clearing of Usenye, where the mixed races lying -between the Land of the Moon eastward, and Uvinza -westward, give way to pure Wavinza, who are considered -by travellers even more dangerous than their -neighbours.</p> - -<p>Beyond Usenye we traversed a deep jungle where -still lingered remains of villages which had been plundered -and burned down by the Wawende and the Watuta, -whose hills rose clearly defined on the right hand. -Having passed the night at Rukunda, or Lukunda, on -the 31st January we sighted the plain of the Malagarazi -River. Northwards of the road ran the stream, -and the low level of the country adjoining it had converted -the bottoms into permanent beds of soft, deep, -and slippery mire. The rest of the march was the -usual country—jungle, fields, and grasses—and after a -toilsome stretch, we unpacked at the settlement of -Wanyika.</p> - -<p>At Wanyika we were delayed for a day by the necessity -of settling Kuhonga, or blackmail, with the envoys -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-408">[408]</span> -of Mzogera. This great man, the principal Sultan of -Uvinza, is also the Lord of the Malagarazi River. As -he can enforce his claims by forbidding the ferrymen -to assist strangers, he must be carefully humoured. He -received about forty cloths, white and blue, six Kitindi -or coil bracelets, and ten Fundo (or 100 necklaces) of -coral beads. It is equivalent in these lands to 50<i>l.</i> in -England. When all the items had been duly palavered -over, we resumed our march on the 2nd February. -The road, following an incline towards the valley of the -river, in which bush and field alternated with shallow -pools, black mud, and putrid grass, led to Unyanguruwwe, -a miserable settlement, producing, however, millet in -abundance, sweet potatoes, and the finest manioc. On -the 3rd February we set out betimes. Spanning cultivation -and undulating grassy ground, and passing over -hill-opens to avoid the deeper swamps, we debouched -from a jungle upon the river-plain, with the swift brown -stream, then about fifty yards broad, swirling through -the tall wet grasses of its banks on our right hand, hard -by the road. Upon the off side a herd of elephants, -forming Indian file, slowly broke through the reed-fence -in front of them: our purblind eyes mistook them for -buffaloes. Northwards lay an expanse of card-table -plain, over which the stream, when in flood, debords to the -distance of two miles, cutting it with deep creeks and -inlets. The flat is bounded in the far offing by a sinuous -line of faint blue hills, the haunts of the Watuta; whilst, -westward and southward, rises the wall-shaped ridge, -stony and wooded, which buttresses the left bank of the -river for some days’ journey down the stream. We -found lodgings for the night in a little village, called -from its district Ugaga; we obtained provisions, and -we lost no time in opening the question of ferryage. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-409">[409]</span> -The Sultan Mzogera had sold his permission to cross -the river. The Mutware, or Mutwale, the Lord of the -Ferry, now required payment for his canoes.</p> - -<p>Whilst delayed at Ugaga by the scabrous question of -how much was to be extracted from me, I will enter into -a few geographical details concerning the Malagarazi -River.</p> - -<p>The Malagarazi, corrupted by speculative geographers -to Mdjigidgi,—the uneuphonious terminology of the -“Mombas Mission Map,”—to “Magrassie” and to “Magozi,” -has been wrongly represented to issue from the -Sea of Ujiji. According to all travellers in these regions, -it arises in the mountains of Urundi, at no great -distance from the Kitangure, or River of Karagwah; but -whilst the latter, springing from the upper counterslope, -feeds the Nyanza or Northern Lake, the Malagarazi, -rising in the lower slope of the equatorial range, trends -to the south-east, till it becomes entangled in the decline -of the Great Central African Depression—the hydrographical -basin first indicated in his Address of 1852 by -Sir Roderick I. Murchison, President of the Royal Geographical -Society of London.<a id="FNanchor10"></a><a href="#Footnote10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> Thence it sweeps round -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-410">[410]</span> -the southern base of Urundi, and, deflected westwards, it -disembogues itself into the Tanganyika. Its mouth is -in the land of Ukaranga, and the long promontory behind -which it discharges its waters, is distinctly visible from -Kawele, the head-quarters of caravans in Ujiji. The -Malagarazi is not navigable; as in primary and transition -countries generally, the bed is broken by rapids. -Beyond the ferry, the slope becomes more pronounced, -branch and channel-islets of sand and verdure divide the -stream, and as every village near the banks appears to -possess one or more canoes, it is probably unfordable. -The main obstacle to crossing it on foot, over the -broken and shallower parts near the rock-bars, would -be the number and the daring of the crocodiles.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote10"></a><a href="#FNanchor10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> -The following notice concerning a discovery which must ever be remembered -as a triumph of geological hypothesis, was kindly forwarded to -me by the <span class="nowrap">discoverer:—</span></p> - -<p>“My speculations as to the whole African interior being a vast watery -plateau-land of some elevation above the sea, but subtended on the east and -west by much higher grounds, were based on the following <span class="nowrap">data:—</span></p> - -<p>“The discovery in the central portion of the Cape colony, by Mr. Bain, -of fossil remains in a lacustrine deposit of secondary age, and the well-known -existence on the coast of loftier mountains known to be of a Palæozoic -or primary epoch and circling round the younger deposits, being followed by -the exploration of the Ngami Lake, justified me in believing that Africa had -been raised from beneath the ocean at a very early geological period; and -that ever since that time the same conditions had prevailed. I thence inferred -that an interior network of lakes and rivers would be found prolonged -northwards from Lake Ngami, though at that time no map was known to -me showing the existence of such central reservoirs. Looking to the -west as well as to the east, I saw no possibility of explaining how the great -rivers could escape from the central plateau-lands and enter the ocean -except through deep lateral gorges, formed at some ancient period of elevation, -when the lateral chains were subjected to transverse fractures. Knowing -that the Niger and the Zaire, or Congo, escaped by such gorges on the -west, I was confident that the same phenomenon must occur upon the eastern -coast, when properly examined. This hypothesis, as sketched out in my -‘Presidential Address’ of 1852, was afterwards received by Dr. Livingstone -just as he was exploring the transverse gorges by which the Zambesi -escapes to the east, and the great traveller has publicly expressed the surprise -he then felt that his discovery should have been thus previously suggested.”</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>The Lord of the Ferry delayed us at Ugaga by -removing the canoes till he had extracted fourteen -cloths and one coil-bracelet,—half his original demand. -Moreover, for each trip the ferryman received from one -to five khete of beads, according to the bulk, weight, -and value of the freight. He was as exorbitant when -we returned; then he would not be satisfied with -less than seven cloths, a large jar of palm oil, and at -least three hundred khete. On the 4th February we -crossed to Mpete, the district on the right or off bank of -the stream. After riding over the river plain, which at -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-411">[411]</span> -that time, when the rains had not supersaturated the -soil, was hard and dry, we came upon the “Ghaut,” a -muddy run or clearing in the thicket of stiff grass which -crossed the stream. There we found a scene of confusion. -The Arabs of Kazeh had described the canoes as fine -barges, capable of accommodating fifty or sixty passengers. -I was not, however, surprised to find wretched -“baumrinden”—tree-rind—canoes, two strips of “myombo” -bark, from five to seven feet in length, sown -together like a doubled wedge with fibres of the same -material. The keel was sharp, the bow and stern were -elevated, and the craft was prevented from collapsing by -cross-bars—rough sticks about eighteen inches long, -jammed ladder-wise between the sides. When high and -dry upon the bank, they look not unlike castaway shoes of -an unusual size. We entered “gingerly.” The craft is -crankier than the Turkish caïque, and we held on “like -grim death” to the gunwale with wetted fingers. The -weight of two men causes these canoes to sink within -three or four inches of water-level. An extra sheet of -stiff bark was placed as a seat in the stern; but the interior -was ankle-deep in water, and baling was necessary -after each trip. The ferryman, standing amidships or -in the fore, poled or paddled according to the depth of -the stream. He managed skilfully enough, and on the -return-march I had reason to admire the dexterity with -which he threaded the narrow, grass-grown and winding -veins of deep water, that ramified from the main -trunk over the swampy and rushy plains on both sides. -Our riding asses were thrown into the river, and they -swam across without accident. Much to my surprise, -none of the bales were lost or injured. The ferrymen -showed decision in maintaining, and ingenuity in increasing, -their claims. On the appearance of opposition -<span class="pagenum" id="Pagei-412">[412]</span> -they poled off to a distance, and squatted, quietly awaiting -the effect of their decisive manœuvre. When the waters -are out, it is not safe to step from the canoe before -it arrives at its destination. The boatman will attempt -to land his passenger upon some dry mound emerging -from deep water, and will then demand a second fee for -salvage.</p> - -<p class="center highline8 fsize90">END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.</p> - -<p class="center highline2 blankbefore4 fsize60">LONDON<br /> -<span class="gesp2">PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO</span>.<br /> -NEW-STREET SQUARE</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="chapno gesp2">INDEX.</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<ul class="index"> - -<li class="newletter">Abad bin Sulayman, rest of the party at the house of, at Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>.</li> - -<li>Abdullah, the Baloch, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-136">i. 136</a>.</li> - -<li>Abdullah bin Nasib, of Zanzibar, his kindness, <a href="#Pagei-270">i. 270</a>.</li> - -<li>Abdullah bin Jumah, and his flying caravan, <a href="#Pagei-315">i. 315</a>.</li> - -<li>Abdullah bin Salim of Kazeh, his authority there, <a href="#Pagei-329">i. 329</a>.</li> - -<li>Abdullah, son of Musa Mzuri, ii. 225, 226.</li> - -<li>Ablactation, period of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-117">i. 117</a>.</li> - -<li>Abrus precatorius used as an ornament in Karagwah, ii. 181.</li> - -<li>Adansonia digitata, or monkey-bread of East Africa, peculiarity of, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>.</li> - -<li>Africa, Central, great depression of, <a href="#Pagei-409">i. 409</a>; ii. 8.</li> - -<li>African proverbs, <a href="#Pagei-131">i. 131</a>.</li> - -<li>Africans, a weak-brained people, <a href="#Pagei-33">i. 33</a>.</li> - -<li>Africans, East, their character and religion, ii. 324.</li> - -<li>Albinos, frequency of, amongst the Wazaramo tribes, <a href="#Pagei-109">i. 109</a>. -Description of them, <a href="#Pagei-109">109</a>.</li> - -<li>Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, calls on Capt. Burton, ii. 228. -His adventures, 228.</li> - -<li>Ammunition, danger of, in African travelling, <a href="#Pagei-264">i. 264</a>.</li> - -<li>Androgyne, the, ii. 159.</li> - -<li>Animals, wild, of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>. -Of Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">87</a>. -Of Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-95">95</a>. -Of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-103">103</a>, <a href="#Pagei-104">104</a>. -Of K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-160">160</a>. -Of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">162</a>. -Of the plains beyond the Rufuta, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>, <a href="#Pagei-183">183</a>. -Of Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>. -Of the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-247">247</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -Of Unyamwezi, ii. 15. -Of Ujiji, 60.</li> - -<li>Antelopes in the Doab of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-81">i. 81</a>. -In the Rufuta plains, <a href="#Pagei-183">183</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-268">268</a>, <a href="#Pagei-269">269</a>. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>. -Of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">i. 300</a>.</li> - -<li>Ant-hills of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-202">i. 202</a>, <a href="#Pagei-203">203</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 19. -Clay of, chewed in Unyamwezi, 28.</li> - -<li>Anthropophagi of Murivumba, ii. 114.</li> - -<li>Ants in the Doab of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>. -Red, of the banks of rivers in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-186">186</a>. -Maji m’oto, or “hot water” ants, <a href="#Pagei-187">187</a>. -Near the Marenga Mk’hali river, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>. -Account of them, <a href="#Pagei-202">202</a>. -Annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-276">276</a>. -Of Rubuga, <a href="#Pagei-317">317</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-371">371</a>. -Of Unyamwezi, ii. 19. -Of Ujiji, 64.</li> - -<li>Apples’ wood, at Mb’hali, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>.</li> - -<li>Arab caravans, description of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-342">i. 342</a>.</li> - -<li>Arab proverbs, <a href="#Pagei-50">i. 50</a>, <a href="#Pagei-86">86</a>, <a href="#Pagei-133">133</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-135">135</a>.</li> - -<li>Arabs of the East coast of Africa, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>. -The half-castes described, <a href="#Pagei-32">32</a>. -Those settled in Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pagei-323">323</a>. -History and description of their settlements, <a href="#Pagei-327">327</a>. -Tents of, on their march, <a href="#Pagei-353">353</a>.</li> - -<li>Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, <a href="#Pagei-198">i. 198</a>.</li> - -<li>Arak tree in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">i. 300</a>.</li> - -<li>Archery in East Africa, ii. 301.</li> - -<li>Armanika, Sultan of Karagwah, account of, ii. 183. -His government, 183, 184. -Besieged by his brother, ii. 224.</li> - -<li>Arms of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-110">i. 110</a>. -Of the Wadoe, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>. -Of the Baloch mercenaries, <a href="#Pagei-133">133</a>. -Of the “Sons of Ramji,” <a href="#Pagei-140">140</a>. -Required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-152">152</a>. -Of the Wasagara tribe, <a href="#Pagei-199">199</a>, <a href="#Pagei-237">237</a>. -Of the Wahehe, <a href="#Pagei-240">240</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Of the Wahamba, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -Of the porters of caravans, <a href="#Pagei-350">350</a>. -Of the Wakimbu, ii. 20. -Of the Wanzamwezi, 30. -Of the Wajiji, 66. -Of the Wavinza, 75. -Of the Watuta, 77. -Of the people of Karagwah, 182.</li> - -<li>Army of Uganda, ii. 189.</li> - -<li>Artémise frigate, <a href="#Pagei-1">i. 1</a>.</li> - -<li>Atmosphere, brilliancy of the, in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-297">i. 297</a>.</li> - -<li>Asclepias in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-165">i. 165</a>.</li> - -<li>Ashmed bin Nuuman, the Wajhayn or “two faces,” <a href="#Pagei-3">i. 3</a>.</li> - -<li>Assegais of the Wasagara tribe, <a href="#Pagei-237">i. 237</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. -Of East Africa generally, 301.</li> - -<li>Ass, the African, described, <a href="#Pagei-85">i. 85</a>. -Those of the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-151">151</a>. -Loss of, <a href="#Pagei-180">180</a>. -Fresh asses purchased from a down caravan, <a href="#Pagei-209">209</a>.</li> - -<li>Asthma, or zik el nafas, remedy in East Africa for, <a href="#Pagei-96">i. 96</a>.</li> - -<li>Atheism, aboriginal, ii. 342.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Bakera, village of, <a href="#Pagei-92">i. 92</a>.</li> - -<li>Bakshshish, in the East, ii. 84, 85. -The propriety of rewarding bad conduct, 85. -Influence of, ii. 172.</li> - -<li>Balochs, the, of Zanzibar, described, <a href="#Pagei-14">i. 14</a>. -Their knavery, <a href="#Pagei-85">85</a>. -Their behaviour on the march, <a href="#Pagei-127">127</a>. -Sketch of their character, <a href="#Pagei-132">132</a>. -Their quarrels with the “Sons of Ramji,” <a href="#Pagei-163">163</a>. -Their desertion and return, <a href="#Pagei-173">173</a>. -Their penitence, <a href="#Pagei-177">177</a>. -Their character, <a href="#Pagei-177">177</a>, <a href="#Pagei-178">178</a>. -Their discontent and complaints about food, <a href="#Pagei-212">212</a>, <a href="#Pagei-221">221</a>. -And proposed desertion, <a href="#Pagei-273">273</a>, <a href="#Pagei-278">278</a>. -Their bile cooled, <a href="#Pagei-274">274</a>. -Their injury to the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-319">319</a>. -Their breakfast on the march, <a href="#Pagei-345">345</a>. -Their manœuvres at Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-376">376</a>. -Their desertion, ii. 111. -Influenced by bakhshish, 217. -Their quarrel with the porters, 253. -Doing “Zam,” ii. 276. -Sent home, 277.</li> - -<li>Bana Dirungá, village of, <a href="#Pagei-71">i. 71</a>.</li> - -<li>Banadir, Barr el, or harbour-land, geography of, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>.</li> - -<li>Bangwe, islet of, in Lake Tanganyika, ii. 53. -Described, 99.</li> - -<li>Banyans, the, of the East Coast of Africa, <a href="#Pagei-19">i. 19</a>.</li> - -<li>Baobab Tree of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>.</li> - -<li>Barghash, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, a state prisoner at Bombay, <a href="#Pagei-3">i. 3</a>.</li> - -<li>Barghumi, the, of East Africa, ii. 294.</li> - -<li>Bark-cloth, price of, at Uvira, ii. 121.</li> - -<li>Basket making in East Africa, ii. 316.</li> - -<li>Basts of East Africa, ii. 317.</li> - -<li>Battle-axes of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 23. -Of the East Africans, 307.</li> - -<li>Bazar-gup, or tittle-tattle in the East, <a href="#Pagei-12">i. 12</a>.</li> - -<li>Bdellium Tree, or Mukl, of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-299">i. 299</a>. -Uses of, among the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>.</li> - -<li>Beads, mode of carrying, in the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-145">i. 145</a>. -Account of African beads of commerce, <a href="#Pagei-146">146</a>. -Currency at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>. -Those most highly valued in Ujiji, ii. 72. -Bead trade of Zanzibar, 390.</li> - -<li>Bedding required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-154">i. 154</a>.</li> - -<li>Beds and bedding of the East Africans, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li>Beef, roast, and plum-pudding at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-400">i. 400</a>.</li> - -<li>Bee-hives, seen for the first time at Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-200">i. 200</a>. -Their shape, <a href="#Pagei-200">200</a>. -Of Rubuga, <a href="#Pagei-317">317</a>.</li> - -<li>Beer in East Africa, ii. 285. -Mode of making it, 286.</li> - -<li>Bees in K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">i. 120</a>. -But no bee-hives, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Wild, attack the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-176">i. 176</a>, <a href="#Pagei-248">248</a>, <a href="#Pagei-249">249</a>. -Annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-276">276</a>. -Of East Africa, ii. 287.</li> - -<li>Beetles in houses at Ujiji, ii. 91, <i>note</i>. -One in the ear of Captain Speke, 91, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Belok, the Baloch, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-135">i. 135</a>.</li> - -<li>Bérard, M., his kindness, <a href="#Pagei-22">i. 22</a>.</li> - -<li>Berberah, disaster at, referred to, <a href="#Pagei-68">i. 68</a>.</li> - -<li>Bhang plant, the, in Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-95">i. 95</a>. -Smoked throughout East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-96">96</a>. -Effects produced by, <a href="#Pagei-96">96</a>. -Used in Ujiji, ii. 70.</li> - -<li>Billhooks carried by the Wasagara tribe, <a href="#Pagei-238">i. 238</a>.</li> - -<li>Birds, mode of catching them, <a href="#Pagei-160">i. 160</a>. -Scarcity of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-270">270</a>. -Of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -Period of nidification and incubation of, ii. 13. -Of Unyamwezi, 16. -Of Ujiji, 60.</li> - -<li>Births and deaths amongst the Wazaramo, customs at, <a href="#Pagei-115">i. 115</a>, <a href="#Pagei-116">116</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-118">118</a>, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>.</li> - -<li>Bivouac, a pleasant, <a href="#Pagei-245">i. 245</a>.</li> - -<li>Black Magic. See <a href="#IndRef1">Uchawi</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef2">Blackmail of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-70">i. 70</a>, <a href="#Pagei-113">113</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>. -Of the Wazegura, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>. -At Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-252">252</a>. -Account of the blackmail of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-253">253</a>. -At Kirufuru, <a href="#Pagei-264">264</a>. -At Kanyenye, <a href="#Pagei-265">265</a>. -In K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-274">274</a>. -At Mdaburu, <a href="#Pagei-279">279</a>. -At Wanyika, <a href="#Pagei-407">407</a>. -At Ubwari island, ii. 114.</li> - -<li>Blood of cattle, drunk in East Africa, ii. 282.</li> - -<li>Boats of the Tanganyika Lake, described, ii. 94.</li> - -<li>Boatmen of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 101.</li> - -<li>Bomani, “the stockade,” village of, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>. -Halt at, <a href="#Pagei-47">47</a>. -Vegetation of, <a href="#Pagei-47">47</a>, <a href="#Pagei-48">48</a>. -Departure from, <a href="#Pagei-51">51</a>.</li> - -<li>Bombax, or silk cotton tree, of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-60">i. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Bonye fiumara, accident to a caravan in the, ii. 270.</li> - -<li>Books required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-155">i. 155</a>.</li> - -<li>Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra tree, in the plains, <a href="#Pagei-180">i. 180</a>. -Toddy drawn from, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>.</li> - -<li>Bos Caffer, or Mbogo, in the plains of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-181">i. 181</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>.</li> - -<li>Botanical collection stolen, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>. -Difficulty of taking care of the collection on the upward march, <a href="#Pagei-320">320</a>. -Destroyed by damp at Ujiji, ii. 81.</li> - -<li>Boulders of granite on the Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-284">i. 284</a>. -Picturesque effects of the, <a href="#Pagei-285">285</a>, <a href="#Pagei-286">286</a>.</li> - -<li>Bows and arrows of the Wagogo, i. 504. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. -Of the East Africans, 301. -Poisoned arrows, 305.</li> - -<li>Brab tree, or Ukhindu, of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Breakfast in the caravan described, <a href="#Pagei-345">i. 345</a>. -An Arab’s, at Kazeh, ii. 167.</li> - -<li>Buffaloes on the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-247">i. 247</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. -On the Rusugi river, ii. 40.</li> - -<li>Bumbumu, Sultan, of the Wahehe, <a href="#Pagei-239">i. 239</a>.</li> - -<li>Burial ceremonies of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 25.</li> - -<li>Burkene, route to, ii. 179.</li> - -<li>Burton, Captain, quits Zanzibar Island, <a href="#Pagei-1">i. 1</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The personnel and materiel of the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-3">i. 3</a>, <a href="#Pagei-10">10</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-11">11</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Smallness of the grant allowed by government, <a href="#Pagei-4">i. 4</a>, <i>note</i>.</li> -<li class="level1">The author’s proposal to the Royal Geographical Society, <a href="#Pagei-5">i. 5</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Anchors off Wale Point, <a href="#Pagei-8">i. 8</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">His difficulties, <a href="#Pagei-19">i. 19</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">His MS. lost, <a href="#Pagei-21">i. 21</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Melancholy parting with Col. Hamerton, <a href="#Pagei-22">i. 22</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Lands at Kaole, <a href="#Pagei-22">i. 22</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Melancholy reflections, <a href="#Pagei-24">i. 24</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Transit of the valley of the Kingani and the Mgeta rivers, <a href="#Pagei-41">i. 41</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The first departure, <a href="#Pagei-43">i. 43</a>, <a href="#Pagei-46">46</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Tents pitched at Bomani, <a href="#Pagei-51">i. 51</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Delay the second, <a href="#Pagei-49">i. 49</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Departure from Bomani, <a href="#Pagei-51">i. 51</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the village of Mkwaju la Mvuani, <a href="#Pagei-52">i. 52</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The third departure, <a href="#Pagei-53">i. 53</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halt at Nzasa, in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Start again, <a href="#Pagei-57">i. 57</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">First dangerous station, <a href="#Pagei-59">i. 59</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Second one, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Adventure at Makutaniro, <a href="#Pagei-70">i. 70</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Author attacked by fever, <a href="#Pagei-71">i. 71</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Third dangerous station, <a href="#Pagei-73">i. 73</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Encamps at Madege Madogo, <a href="#Pagei-79">i. 79</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And at Kidunda, <a href="#Pagei-79">i. 79</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Loses his elephant-gun, <a href="#Pagei-80">i. 80</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at a place of safety, <a href="#Pagei-81">i. 81</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Has a hammam, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Thoroughly prostrated, <a href="#Pagei-84">i. 84</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">His troubles, <a href="#Pagei-86">i. 86</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Prepares a report for the Royal Geographical Society, <a href="#Pagei-89">i. 89</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Advances from Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-91">i. 91</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-127">i. 127</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-158">i. 158</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at Mzizi Mdogo, <a href="#Pagei-161">i. 161</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Recovery of health at, <a href="#Pagei-161">i. 161</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Mzizi Mdogo, <a href="#Pagei-165">i. 165</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Cha K’henge, <a href="#Pagei-167">i. 167</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertion of the Baloch, <a href="#Pagei-173">i. 173</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Their return, <a href="#Pagei-174">i. 174</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Muhama, <a href="#Pagei-178">i. 178</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Again attacked by fever, <a href="#Pagei-179">i. 179</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the march, <a href="#Pagei-180">i. 180</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Contrasts in the scenery, <a href="#Pagei-184">i. 184</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Fords the Mukondokwa river, <a href="#Pagei-188">i. 188</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Kadetamare, <a href="#Pagei-189">i. 189</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Loss of instruments, <a href="#Pagei-189">i. 189</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Muinyi, <a href="#Pagei-193">i. 193</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the journey, <a href="#Pagei-194">i. 194</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Ndábi, <a href="#Pagei-196">i. 196</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the march and rests at Rumuma, <a href="#Pagei-198">i. 198</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Abundance of its supplies, <a href="#Pagei-198">i. 198</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-203">i. 203</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Approaches the bandit Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-203">i. 203</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-204">i. 204</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at the basin of Inenge, <a href="#Pagei-208">i. 208</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Wholesome food obtained there, <a href="#Pagei-208">i. 208</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Exchange of civilities with a down caravan, <a href="#Pagei-208">i. 208</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Painful ascent of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, <a href="#Pagei-213">i. 213</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halt at the Great Rubeho, <a href="#Pagei-215">i. 215</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ascent of the Little Rubeho, <a href="#Pagei-215">i. 215</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Descent of the counterslope of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-219">i. 219</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">First view of the Ugogo mountains, <a href="#Pagei-220">i. 220</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at the third Rubeho, <a href="#Pagei-221">i. 221</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches on the banks of the Dungomaro, <a href="#Pagei-222">i. 222</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the plains of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-223">i. 223</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Losses during the descent, <a href="#Pagei-224">i. 224</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-241">i. 241</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Engages the services of fifteen Wanyamwezi porters, <a href="#Pagei-244">i. 244</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-244">i. 244</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The caravan dislodged by wild bees, <a href="#Pagei-248">i. 248</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Loses a valuable portmanteau, <a href="#Pagei-249">i. 249</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts on the road for the night, <a href="#Pagei-250">i. 250</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves the jungle-kraal, <a href="#Pagei-250">i. 250</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sights the Ziwa, or Pond, <a href="#Pagei-251">i. 251</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Provisions obtained there, <a href="#Pagei-255">i. 255</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Recovery of the lost portmanteau, <a href="#Pagei-257">i. 257</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Joins another up-caravan, <a href="#Pagei-257">i. 257</a>, <a href="#Pagei-258">258</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-259">i. 259</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Astonishment of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-263">i. 263</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Delayed at Kifukuru for blackmail, <a href="#Pagei-264">i. 264</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Kifukuru, <a href="#Pagei-265">i. 265</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Accident in the jungle, <a href="#Pagei-265">i. 265</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Interview with Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, <a href="#Pagei-266">i. 266</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Hurried march from Kanyenye, <a href="#Pagei-271">i. 271</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at Usek’he and K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-272">i. 272</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Difficulties of blackmail at K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-274">i. 274</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Departs from K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-275">i. 275</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertion of fifteen porters, <a href="#Pagei-275">i. 275</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Trying march in the Mdáburu jungle, <a href="#Pagei-277">i. 277</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Uyanzi, <a href="#Pagei-279">i. 279</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Traverses the Fiery Field, <a href="#Pagei-283">i. 283</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the Mabunguru fiumara, <a href="#Pagei-285">i. 285</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Losses on the march, <a href="#Pagei-285">i. 285</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Jiwe la Mkoa, <a href="#Pagei-286">i. 286</a>, <a href="#Pagei-288">288</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And Kirurumo and Jiweni, <a href="#Pagei-289">i. 289</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Mgono T’hembo, <a href="#Pagei-290">i. 290</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the Tura Nullah, <a href="#Pagei-291">i. 291</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And at the village of Tura, the frontier of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-292">i. 292</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-313">313</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Proceeds into Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-314">i. 314</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at the Kwale nullah, <a href="#Pagei-315">i. 315</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Visited by Abdullah bin Jumah and his flying caravan, <a href="#Pagei-315">i. 315</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And by Sultan Maura, <a href="#Pagei-316">i. 316</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Ukona, <a href="#Pagei-318">i. 318</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Ukona and halts at Kigwa or Mkigwa, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters the dangerous Kigwa forest, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Loss of papers there, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the rice-lands of the Unyamyembe district, <a href="#Pagei-321">i. 321</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters Kazeh in grand style, <a href="#Pagei-322">i. 322</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Hospitality of the Arabs there, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Difficulties of the preparations for recommencing the journey, <a href="#Pagei-377">i. 377</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sickness of the servants, <a href="#Pagei-379">i. 379</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Author attacked by fever, <a href="#Pagei-380">i. 380</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Kazeh and proceeds to Zimbili, <a href="#Pagei-386">i. 386</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Proceeds and halts at Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-386">i. 386</a>, <a href="#Pagei-387">387</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Yombo and reaches Pano and Mfuto, <a href="#Pagei-389">i. 389</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Irora, <a href="#Pagei-389">i. 389</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Wilyankuru, <a href="#Pagei-390">i. 390</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Hospitality of Salim bin Said, <a href="#Pagei-391">i. 391</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And of Masid ibn Musallam el Wardi, at Kirira, <a href="#Pagei-392">i. 392</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Kirira, and marches to Msene, <a href="#Pagei-395">i. 395</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Delayed there, <a href="#Pagei-399">i. 399</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to the village of Mb’hali, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And to Sengati and the deadly Sorora, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertions and dismissals at Sorora, <a href="#Pagei-402">i. 402</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Kajjanjeri, <a href="#Pagei-403">i. 403</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Detained there by dangerous illness, <a href="#Pagei-403">i. 403</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Proceeds and halts at Usagozi, <a href="#Pagei-406">i. 406</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Some of the party afflicted by ophthalmia, <a href="#Pagei-406">i. 406</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Quits Usagozi, and marches to Masenza, <a href="#Pagei-406">i. 406</a>, <a href="#Pagei-407">407</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the Mukozimo district, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Spends a night at Rukunda, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sights the plain of the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Wanyika, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Settlement of blackmail at, <a href="#Pagei-408">i. 408</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the march, <a href="#Pagei-408">i. 408</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the bank of the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pagei-408">i. 408</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Crosses over to Mpete, <a href="#Pagei-410">i. 410</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Kinawani, ii. 35.</li> -<li class="level1">And to Jambeho, ii. 36.</li> -<li class="level1">Fords the Rusugi river, ii. 37.</li> -<li class="level1">Fresh desertions, ii. 38.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts on the Ungwwe river, ii. 40.</li> -<li class="level1">First view of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 42.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at Ukaranga, ii. 44.</li> -<li class="level1">And at Ujiji, ii. 46.</li> -<li class="level1">Visits the headman Kannena, ii. 81.</li> -<li class="level1">Incurs his animosity, ii. 82, 84.</li> -<li class="level1">Ill effects of the climate and food of Ujiji, ii. 85.</li> -<li class="level1">Captain Speke sent up the Lake, ii. 87.</li> -<li class="level1">Mode of spending the day at Ujiji, ii. 87.</li> -<li class="level1">Failure of Capt. Speke’s expedition, ii. 90.</li> -<li class="level1">The author prepares for a cruise, ii. 93.</li> -<li class="level1">The voyage, ii. 99.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts and encamps at Kigari, ii. 101.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters the region of Urundi, ii. 101.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches and halts at Wafanya, ii. 106.</li> -<li class="level1">Sails for the island of Ubwari, ii. 112.</li> -<li class="level1">Anchors there, ii. 113.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves there and arrives at Murivumba, ii. 114.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the southern frontier of Uvira, ii. 115.</li> -<li class="level1">Further progress stopped, ii. 117, 119.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns, ii. 121.</li> -<li class="level1">Storm on the Lake, ii. 123.</li> -<li class="level1">Passes the night at Wafanya, ii. 123.</li> -<li class="level1">A slave accidentally shot there, -ii. 124.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Kawele, ii. 124.</li> -<li class="level1">Improvement in health, ii. 129.</li> -<li class="level1">The outfit reduced to a minimum, ii. 130.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrival of supplies, but inadequate, ii. 132.</li> -<li class="level1">Preparations for the return to Unyanyembe, ii. 155.</li> -<li class="level1">The departure, ii. 157.</li> -<li class="level1">The return-march, ii. 160.</li> -<li class="level1">Pitches tents at Uyonwa, ii. 161.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertions, ii. 161.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to the ferry of the Malagarazi, ii. 164.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches back to Unyanyembe, ii. 165.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Yombo, ii. 166.</li> -<li class="level1">Re-enters Kazeh, ii. 167.</li> -<li class="level1">Sends his companion on an expedition to the north, ii. 173.</li> -<li class="level1">His mode of passing time at Kazeh, ii. 173, 198.</li> -<li class="level1">Preparations for journeying, ii. 200.</li> -<li class="level1">Shortness of funds, ii. 221.</li> -<li class="level1">Outfit for the return, ii. 229.</li> -<li class="level1">Departs from Kazeh, ii. 231.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Hanga, ii. 232.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Hanga, ii. 240.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns through Ugogo, ii. 244.</li> -<li class="level1">The letters with the official “wigging,” ii. 247.</li> -<li class="level1">Takes the Kiringawana route, ii. 249.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at a den of thieves, ii. 252.</li> -<li class="level1">And at Maroro, ii. 255.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Kiperepeta, ii. 256.</li> -<li class="level1">Fords the Yovu, ii. 258.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Ruhembe rivulet, ii. 261.</li> -<li class="level1">And on the Makata plain, ii. 262.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Uziraha, ii. 263.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Zungomero, ii. 264.</li> -<li class="level1">Proposes a march to Kilwa, ii. 265.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertion of the porters, ii. 266.</li> -<li class="level1">Engages fresh ones, ii. 267.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Zungomero, and resumes the march, ii. 276.</li> -<li class="level1">Re-enters Uzaramo, ii. 277.</li> -<li class="level1">And Konduchi, ii. 278.</li> -<li class="level1">Sights the sea, ii. 278.</li> -<li class="level1">Sets out for Kilwa, ii. 372.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Zanzibar, ii. 379.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Zanzibar for Aden, ii. 384.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Europe, ii. 384.</li> - -<li>Butter in East Africa, ii. 284.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Cacti in the Usagara Mountains, <a href="#Pagei-165">i. 165</a>. -Of Mgunda M’Khali, <a href="#Pagei-286">286</a>.</li> - -<li>Calabash-tree of East Africa, described, <a href="#Pagei-147">i. 147</a>. -In the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-164">i. 164</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>. -Magnificence of, at Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-260">260</a>. -The only large tree in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-299">299</a>.</li> - -<li>Camp furniture required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-152">i. 152</a>.</li> - -<li>Cannibalism of the Wadoe tribe, <a href="#Pagei-123">i. 123</a>. -Of the people of Murivumba, ii. 114.</li> - -<li>Cannabis Indica in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-318">i. 318</a>.</li> - -<li>Canoes built of mvule trees, ii. 147. -Mode of making them, 147.</li> - -<li>Canoes on the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pagei-409">i. 409</a>. -On the “Ghaut,” <a href="#Pagei-411">411</a>.</li> - -<li>Capparis sodata, verdure of the, in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">i. 300</a>.</li> - -<li>Carriage, cost of, in East Africa, ii. 414.</li> - -<li>Caravans of ivory, <a href="#Pagei-17">i. 17</a>. -Slave caravans, <a href="#Pagei-17">17</a>, <a href="#Pagei-62">62</a>. -Mode of collecting a caravan in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-143">143</a>. -Attacked by wild bees, <a href="#Pagei-4">4</a>, <a href="#Pagei-176">176</a>. -And by small-pox, <a href="#Pagei-179">179</a>. -In East Africa, description of, <a href="#Pagei-337">337</a>. -Porters, <a href="#Pagei-337">337-339</a>. -Seasons for travelling, <a href="#Pagei-339">339</a>. -The three kinds of caravan, <a href="#Pagei-341">341</a>. -That of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-341">341</a>. -Those made up by the Arab merchants, <a href="#Pagei-342">342</a>. -Those of the Wasawahili, &c., <a href="#Pagei-344">344</a>. -Sketch of a day’s march of an East African caravan, <a href="#Pagei-344">344</a>. -Mode of forming a caravan, <a href="#Pagei-348">348</a>. -Dress of the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-349">349</a>. -Ornaments and arms worn by the porters, <a href="#Pagei-349">349</a>. -Recreations of the march, <a href="#Pagei-350">350</a>. -Meeting of two caravans, <a href="#Pagei-351">351</a>. -Halt of a caravan, <a href="#Pagei-351">351</a>. -Lodgings on the march, <a href="#Pagei-353">353</a>. -Cooking, <a href="#Pagei-355">355</a>, <a href="#Pagei-356">356</a>. -Greediness of the porters, <a href="#Pagei-356">356</a>, <a href="#Pagei-357">357</a>. -Water, <a href="#Pagei-359">359</a>. -Night, <a href="#Pagei-359">359</a>. -Dances of the porters, <a href="#Pagei-360">360</a>. -Their caravan, <a href="#Pagei-361">361</a>, <a href="#Pagei-362">362</a>. -Rate of caravan travelling, <a href="#Pagei-362">362</a>. -Custom respecting caravans in Central Africa, ii. 54. -Those on the Uruwwa route, 148. -Accident to a, 270.</li> - -<li>Carissa Carandas, the Corinda bush in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-60">i. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Carpentering in East Africa, ii. 309.</li> - -<li>Carvings, rude, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26.</li> - -<li>Castor plants of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>. -Mode of extracting the oil, <a href="#Pagei-48">48</a>.</li> - -<li>Cats, wild, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Cattle, horned, of Ujiji, ii. 59. -Of Karagwah, 181.</li> - -<li>Cattle trade of East Africa, ii. 413.</li> - -<li>Cereals of East Africa, ii. 414.</li> - -<li>Ceremoniousness of the Wajiji, ii. 69.</li> - -<li>Ceremony and politeness, miseries of, in the East, <a href="#Pagei-392">i. 392</a>.</li> - -<li>Cha K’henge, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-167">i. 167</a>.</li> - -<li>Chamærops humilis, or Nyara tree, of the Mrima, f. <a href="#Pagei-48">48</a>.</li> - -<li>Chawambi, Sultan of Unyoro, ii. 198.</li> - -<li>Chhaga, ii. 179.</li> - -<li>Chiefs of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-113">i. 113</a>.</li> - -<li>Chikichi, or palm oil, trade in, at Wafanya, -ii. 107.</li> - -<li>Childbirth, ceremonies of, in Unyamwezi ii. 23. -Twins, 23.</li> - -<li>Children, mode of carrying, in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-110">i. 110</a>.</li> - -<li>Children, Wasagara mode of carrying, <a href="#Pagei-237">i. 237</a>.</li> - -<li>Children, mode of carrying amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22.</li> - -<li>Children, education of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 23, 24.</li> - -<li>Chomwi, or headman, of the Wamrima, <a href="#Pagei-16">i. 16</a>. -His privileges, <a href="#Pagei-16">16</a>, <a href="#Pagei-17">17</a>.</li> - -<li>Chumbi, isle of, <a href="#Pagei-1">i. 1</a>.</li> - -<li>Chunga Mchwa, or ant, of the sweet red clay of East Africa, described, <a href="#Pagei-201">i. 201</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-202">202</a>.</li> - -<li>Chungo-fundo or siyafu, or pismires of the river banks of East Africa, described, <a href="#Pagei-186">i. 186</a>.</li> - -<li>Chyámbo, the locale of the coast Arabs, <a href="#Pagei-397">i. 397</a>.</li> - -<li>Circumcision, not practised by the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-108">i. 108</a>. -Nor in the Unyamwezi, ii. 23.</li> - -<li>Clay chewed, when tobacco fails, in Unyamwezi, ii. 28.</li> - -<li>Climate of—</li> -<li class="level1">Bomani, <a href="#Pagei-49">i. 49</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-89">i. 89</a>, <a href="#Pagei-92">92</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">East Africa, during the wet season, <a href="#Pagei-379">i. 379</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Inenge, <a href="#Pagei-208">i. 208</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kajjanjeri, ii. 403.</li> -<li class="level1">Karagwah, ii. 180.</li> -<li class="level1">Kawele, ii. 130.</li> -<li class="level1">Kirira, <a href="#Pagei-394">i. 394</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kuingani, <a href="#Pagei-44">i. 44</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-203">i. 203</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-102">i. 102</a>, <a href="#Pagei-104">104</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Msene, <a href="#Pagei-400">i. 400</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mohama, <a href="#Pagei-179">i. 179</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mzizi Mdogo, <a href="#Pagei-161">i. 161</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rumuma, <a href="#Pagei-199">i. 199</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sorora, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pagei-142">i. 142</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-243">i. 243</a>, <a href="#Pagei-259">259</a>, <a href="#Pagei-297">297</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ujiji, ii. 81.</li> -<li class="level1">Unyamwezi, ii. 8-14.</li> -<li class="level1">Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-221">i. 221</a>, <a href="#Pagei-222">222</a>, <a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Wafanya, ii. 107.</li> -<li class="level1">Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-94">i. 94</a>, 127, 156, -161, 163.</li> - -<li>Cloth, mode of carrying, in the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-145">i. 145</a>. -As an article of commerce, <a href="#Pagei-148">148</a>.</li> - -<li>Clothing required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-154">i. 154</a>. -Of travellers in East Africa, ii. 201.</li> - -<li>Clouds in Unyamwezi, ii. 12.</li> - -<li>Cockroaches in houses in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li>Cocoa-nut, use of the, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-36">i. 36</a>.</li> - -<li>Cocoa-tree, its limits inland, <a href="#Pagei-160">i. 160</a>.</li> - -<li>Coffee, wild, or mwami, of Karagwah, ii. 180, 181, -187.</li> - -<li>Commando, pitiable scene presented after one, <a href="#Pagei-185">i. 185</a>.</li> - -<li>Commerce of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-39">i. 39</a>. -Of Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-95">95</a>. -Of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>. -Of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-308">308</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. -Of the Nyanza Lake, 215. -African, 224. -Of Ubena, 270. -Of Uvira, ii. 120. -Of East Africa, 387.</li> - -<li>Conversation, specimen of, in East Africa, ii. 243, 244.</li> - -<li>Copal tree, or Msandarusi, of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>.</li> - -<li>Copal trade of East Africa, ii. 403.</li> - -<li>Copper in Katata, ii. 148. -In East Africa, 312.</li> - -<li>Cotton in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-318">i. 318</a>. -In Ujiji, <a href="#Pagei-57">i. 57</a>. -In East Africa, 417.</li> - -<li>Cowhage on the banks of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-166">i. 166</a>.</li> - -<li>Cowries of Karagwah, ii. 185. -Of East Africa, 416.</li> - -<li>Crickets of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>. -House, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li>Crocodiles of the Kingani river, <a href="#Pagei-56">i. 56</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. -In the Sea of Ujiji, 60. -Of the Ruche River, 158.</li> - -<li>Crops of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-102">i. 102</a>, <i>et seq</i>.</li> - -<li>Cucumbers at Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-201">i. 201</a>. -Wild, of Unyanyembe, ii. 285.</li> - -<li>Cultivation in the Mukondokwa hills, <a href="#Pagei-196">i. 196</a>, <a href="#Pagei-197">197</a>. -In the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>.</li> - -<li>Currency of East Africa, stock may be recruited at Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-334">i. 334</a>. -Of Msene, <a href="#Pagei-398">i. 398</a>. -Of Ujiji, ii. 73. -Of Karagwah, 185. -Of Ubena, 270. -Cynhyænas of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-302">i. 302</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Cynocephalus, the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. -The terror of the country, 15.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Dancing of the Wazaramo women, <a href="#Pagei-55">i. 55</a>. -African, described, <a href="#Pagei-360">360</a>; ii. 291, 298.</li> - -<li>Darwayash, the Baloch, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-137">i. 137</a>.</li> - -<li>“Dash,” <a href="#Pagei-58">i. 58</a>. -<i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef2">Blackmail</a>.</li> - -<li>Datura plant of Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-95">i. 95</a>. -Smoked in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-96">96</a>. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-318">318</a>.</li> - -<li>Day, an African’s mode of passing the, ii. 289, 290.</li> - -<li>Death, African fear of, ii. 331.</li> - -<li>Defences of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-111">i. 111</a>, <a href="#Pagei-117">117</a>.</li> - -<li>Dege la Mhora, “the large jungle bird,” village of, <a href="#Pagei-72">i. 72</a>. -Fate of M. Maizan at, <a href="#Pagei-73">73</a>.</li> - -<li>Det’he, or Kidete of East Africa, ii. 293.</li> - -<li>Devil’s trees of East Africa, ii. 353.</li> - -<li>Dialects of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-107">i. 107</a>. -The Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-306">306</a>. -The Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -The Wanyamwezi, ii. 5. -The Wakimbu, 20. -The Wanyamwezi, 30.</li> - -<li>Diseases of the maritime region of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-105">i. 105</a>. -Of the people of Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-233">233</a>. -Of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-299">299</a>. -Of caravans in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-342">342</a>. -Of Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 13, 14. -Of East Africa, 318. -Remedies, 321. -Mystical remedies, 352, 353.</li> - -<li>Dishdasheh, El, or turban of the coast Arabs, <a href="#Pagei-32">i. 32</a>.</li> - -<li>Divorce amongst the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-118">i. 118</a>. -Amongst the East Africans generally, ii. 333.</li> - -<li>Drawing materials required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-155">i. 155</a>.</li> - -<li>Dress, articles of, of the East Africans, <a href="#Pagei-148">i. 148</a>. -Of the Wamrima, <a href="#Pagei-33">33</a>, <a href="#Pagei-34">34</a>. -Of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-109">109</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Of the Wasagara, <a href="#Pagei-253">253</a>. -Of the Wahete, <a href="#Pagei-239">239</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-305">305</a>. -Of the Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -Of the Wakalaganza, <a href="#Pagei-406">406</a>. -Of the Wakimbu, ii. 20. -Of the Wanyamwezi, 21. -Of the Wajiji, 64. -Of the Warundi, 146. -Of the Wavinza, 75. -Of the Watuta, 77. -Of the Wabuta, 78. -Of the people of Karagwah, 182. -Of the Wahinda, 220. -Of the Warori, 271.</li> - -<li>Dodges of the ferrymen, ii. 164, 165.</li> - -<li>Dragon-flies in Unyamwezi, ii. 18.</li> - -<li>Drinking-bouts in East Africa, ii. 295, 335.</li> - -<li>Drinking-cups in East Africa, ii. 295.</li> - -<li>Drums and drumming of East Africa, ii. 295.</li> - -<li>Drunkenness of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-118">i. 118</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -And debauchery of the people of Msene, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>. -Prevalence of, near the Lake Tanganyika, ii. 59. -Of the Wajiji, 69.</li> - -<li>Dogs, wild, in Unyamwezi, ii. 16. -Pariah, in the villages of Ujiji, 60. -Rarely heard to bark, 60.</li> - -<li>Dolicos pruriens on the banks of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-166">i. 166</a>.</li> - -<li>Donkey-men of the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-143">i. 143</a>.</li> - -<li>Dub-grass in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-171">i. 171</a>.</li> - -<li>Dunda, or “the Hill,” district of, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>.</li> - -<li>Dunda Nguru, or “Seer fish-bill” <a href="#Pagei-69">i. 69</a>.</li> - -<li>Dungomaro, or Mandama, river, arrival of the caravan at the, <a href="#Pagei-222">i. 222</a>. -Description of the bed of the, <a href="#Pagei-223">223</a>.</li> - -<li>Dut’humi, mountain crags of, <a href="#Pagei-65">i. 65</a>, <a href="#Pagei-83">83</a>, <a href="#Pagei-86">86</a>. -Illness of the chiefs of the expedition at, <a href="#Pagei-84">84</a>. -Description of the plains of, <a href="#Pagei-86">86</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Eagles, fish, of Ujiji, ii. 60.</li> - -<li>Ear-lobes distended by the Wasagara, <a href="#Pagei-235">i. 235</a>. -And by the Wahehe, <a href="#Pagei-239">239</a>. -By the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -And by the Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -Enlarged by the Wanyamwezi, ii. 21.</li> - -<li>Earth-fruit of India, <a href="#Pagei-198">i. 198</a>.</li> - -<li>Earthquakes in Unyamwezi, ii. 13.</li> - -<li>Earwigs in East African houses, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li>Ebb and flow of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 143. -Causes of, 143, 144.</li> - -<li>Education of children in Unyamwezi, ii. 23, 24.</li> - -<li>Eels of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68.</li> - -<li>Eggs not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. -Nor by the people of Ujiji, 59.</li> - -<li>Elæis Guiniensis, or Mehikichi tree, in Ujiji, ii. 58.</li> - -<li>Elephants at Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>. -In Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>. -At Ziwa, or the Pond, <a href="#Pagei-251">251</a>. -On the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-247">247</a>. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-287">287</a>, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -On the banks of the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pagei-408">408</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. -Near the sea of Ujiji, 60. -In East Africa, 297.</li> - -<li>Elephant hunting in East Africa, ii. 298.</li> - -<li>English, the, bow regarded in Africa, <a href="#Pagei-31">i. 31</a>.</li> - -<li>Erhardt, M., his proposed expedition to East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-3">i. 3</a>.</li> - -<li>Ethnology of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-106">i. 106</a>. -Of the second region, <a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>, <i>et seq.</i></li> - -<li>Euphorbiæ at Mb’hali, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -In the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-165">i. 165</a>.</li> - -<li>Evil eye unknown to the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-116">i. 116</a>.</li> - -<li>Exorcism in East Africa, ii. 352.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Falsehood of the coast clans of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-37">i. 37</a>. -General in East Africa, ii. 328.</li> - -<li>Faraj, sketch of him and his wife, the lady Halimah, <a href="#Pagei-129">i. 129</a>.</li> - -<li>Fauna of Ujiji, ii. 60.</li> - -<li>Fetiss-huts of the Wazaramo described, <a href="#Pagei-57">i. 57</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-369">369</a>; ii. 346.</li> - -<li>Fetissism of East Africa, ii. 341, <i>et seq.</i></li> - -<li>Fever, marsh, cure in Central Asia for, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>. -The author prostrated by, <a href="#Pagei-84">84</a>. -Delirium of, <a href="#Pagei-84">84</a>. -Of East Africa generally described, <a href="#Pagei-105">105</a>. -The author and his companion again attacked by, at Muhama, <a href="#Pagei-179">179</a>. -Common in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-233">233</a>. -Seasoning fever of East Africa, generally, <a href="#Pagei-379">379</a>. -Miasmatic, described, <a href="#Pagei-403">403</a>. -Low type, <a href="#Pagei-406">406</a>. -Seasoning fever at Unyamwezi described, ii. 14.</li> - -<li>Fire-arms and Gunpowder in East Africa, ii. 308.</li> - -<li>Fires in Africa, ii. 259.</li> - -<li>Fish of the Kingani river, <a href="#Pagei-56">i. 56</a>. -Of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 59. -Varieties of, 67. -Narcotised in Uzaramo, 67. -At Wafanya, 108. -Considered as an article of diet in East Africa, 280.</li> - -<li>Fishing in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 66.</li> - -<li>Fisi, or cynhyæna, of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>. -The scavenger of the country, <a href="#Pagei-64">i. 64</a>.</li> - -<li>Flies in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. -Fatal bite of one in, 19.</li> - -<li>Flowers of Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-328">i. 328</a>. -At Msene, <a href="#Pagei-397">397</a>.</li> - -<li>Fly, a stinging, the tzetze, <a href="#Pagei-187">i. 187</a>.</li> - -<li>Fog-rainbow in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-222">i. 222</a>.</li> - -<li>Food of the Wamrima, <a href="#Pagei-35">i. 35</a>. -Of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-56">56</a>. -Of the people of Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-95">95</a>, <a href="#Pagei-96">96</a>, <a href="#Pagei-97">97</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Of the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-151">151</a>, <a href="#Pagei-198">198</a>. -Of the people of Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-310">310</a>, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Of Rubuga, <a href="#Pagei-317">317</a>. -Of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-329">329</a>. -Of Arabs of, <a href="#Pagei-331">331-334</a>. -Of Wilyanhuru, <a href="#Pagei-392">392-394</a>. -Of Unyamwezi, ii. 28, 29. -Of Ujiji, 70, <a href="#Pagei-88">88</a>. -Of Karagwah, 180, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>. -Of Uganda, 196, <a href="#Pagei-197">197</a>. -Of the Warori tribe, 273. -East Africa generally, 280.</li> - -<li>Fords in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-336">i. 336</a>.</li> - -<li>Fowls not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. -Nor by the people of Ujiji, 59.</li> - -<li>Frankincense of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-299">i. 299</a>.</li> - -<li>Frogs in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. -Night concerts of, 17. -Of the sea of Ujiji, 61.</li> - -<li>Frost, Mr., of the Zanzibar consulate, <a href="#Pagei-3">i. 3</a>, <a href="#Pagei-21">21</a>.</li> - -<li>Fruits of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>. -Of Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-228">228</a>. -Of Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-337">337</a>. -Of Mb’hali, <a href="#Pagei-401">401</a>. -Of Ujiji, ii. 58.</li> - -<li>Fundi, or itinerant slave-artizans of Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pagei-328">i. 328</a>. -Caravans of the, <a href="#Pagei-344">344</a>.</li> - -<li>Fundikira, Sultan of Unyamwezi, notice of him, ii. 31.</li> - -<li>Fundikira, Sultan of Ititenza, <a href="#Pagei-326">i. 326</a>.</li> - -<li>Funerals of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-119">i. 119</a>. Of the Wadoe, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>.</li> - -<li>Funza, brother of Sultan Matanza of Msene, <a href="#Pagei-396">i. 396</a>.</li> - -<li>Furniture of East African houses, <a href="#Pagei-371">i. 371</a>. -Kitanda, or bedstead, <a href="#Pagei-371">371</a>. -Bedding, <a href="#Pagei-371">371</a>. -Of the houses of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Gadflies, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-276">i. 276</a>.</li> - -<li>Gaetano, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, <a href="#Pagei-131">i. 131</a>. -Taken ill, <a href="#Pagei-380">380</a>. -His epileptic fits at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-395">395</a>, <a href="#Pagei-399">399</a>.</li> - -<li>Gama river, <a href="#Pagei-123">i. 123</a>.</li> - -<li>Gambling in East Africa, ii. 279.</li> - -<li>Game in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-59">i. 59</a>, <a href="#Pagei-71">71</a>. -In the Doab of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-81">81</a>. -In K’huta, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -In the plains between the Rufuta and the Mukondokwa mountains, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>. -In Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>. -At Ziwa, or the Pond, <a href="#Pagei-251">251</a>. -At Kanyenye, <a href="#Pagei-268">268</a>. -Scarcity of, in East Africa generally, <a href="#Pagei-268">268</a>.</li> - -<li>Ganza Mikono, sultan of Usek’he, <a href="#Pagei-272">i. 272</a>.</li> - -<li>Geography of the second region, <a href="#Pagei-225">i. 225</a>, <i>et seq</i>. -Of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-295">295</a>. -Arab oral, ii. 144-154.</li> - -<li>Geology of the maritime region of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-102">i. 102</a>. -Of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-227">227</a>. -Of the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-247">247</a>. -Of Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-282">i. 282-284</a>. -Of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-295">i. 295</a>. -Of Unyamwezi, ii. 6.</li> - -<li>Ghost-faith of the Africans, ii. 344.</li> - -<li>Gingerbread tree, described, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>.</li> - -<li>Ginyindo, march to, ii. 253. -Quarrel of the Baloch and porters at, 253.</li> - -<li>Giraffes in Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-242">i. 242</a>. -Native names of the, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>, <a href="#Pagei-243">243</a>. -Use made of them, <a href="#Pagei-243">243</a>. -At Ziwa, or the Pond, <a href="#Pagei-251">251</a>. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Girls of the Wanyamwezi, strange custom of the, ii. 24.</li> - -<li>Gnus in the Doab of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-81">i. 81</a>. -At Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">87</a>.</li> - -<li>Goats of Ujiji, ii. 59.</li> - -<li>Goma pass, the, <a href="#Pagei-168">i. 168</a>, <a href="#Pagei-170">170</a>.</li> - -<li>Gombe, mud-fish in the nullah of, <a href="#Pagei-334">i. 334</a>.</li> - -<li>Gombe Nullah, <a href="#Pagei-395">i. 395</a>, <a href="#Pagei-397">397</a>, <a href="#Pagei-401">401</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-403">403</a>, ii. 8.</li> - -<li>Goose, ruddy, Egyptian, <a href="#Pagei-317">i. 317</a>.</li> - -<li>Gourd, the, a musical instrument in East Africa, ii. 294.</li> - -<li>Gourds of the Myombo tree in Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-229">i. 229</a>.</li> - -<li>Government of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-113">i. 113</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 31. -Of the Wajiji, 71. -Of the northern kingdoms of Africa, 174. -Mode of, in Uganda, 192. -Forms of, in East Africa, 360.</li> - -<li>Grain, mode of grinding, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-111">i. 111</a>, <a href="#Pagei-372">372</a>. -That of Msene, <a href="#Pagei-397">397</a>, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>. -Of Ujiji, ii. 57.</li> - -<li>Grapes, wild, seen for the first time, ii. 41.</li> - -<li>Grasses of the swamps and marshes of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-103">i. 103</a>, <a href="#Pagei-104">104</a>. -The dub of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-171">171</a>.</li> - -<li>Graveyards, absence of, in East Africa, ii. 25.</li> - -<li>Ground-fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68.</li> - -<li>Ground-nut oil in East Africa, ii. 285.</li> - -<li>Grouse, sand, at Ziwa, <a href="#Pagei-251">i. 251</a>.</li> - -<li>Guest welcome, or hishmat l’il gharib, of the Arabs of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-329">i. 329</a>.</li> - -<li>Gugu-mbua, or wild sugar-cane, <a href="#Pagei-71">i. 71</a>.</li> - -<li>Guinea-fowls in the Doab of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-81">i. 81</a>. -Of the Rufuta plains, <a href="#Pagei-183">183</a>. -Of Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>.</li> - -<li>Guinea-palm of Ujiji, ii. 58.</li> - -<li>Gul Mohammed, a Baloch of the party, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-139">i. 139</a>. -His conversation with Muzungu Mbaya, ii. 244.</li> - -<li>Gulls, sea, of the sea of Ujiji, ii. 60.</li> - -<li>Gungu, district of, in Ujiji, ii. 53. -Its former and present chiefs, 53. -Plundered by the Watuta tribe, 76.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Hail-storms in Unyamwezi, ii. 10.</li> - -<li>Hair, mode of dressing the, amongst the -Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-108">i. 108</a>. -And the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Wasagara fashions of dressing the, <a href="#Pagei-234">234</a>. -Wagogo mode, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. -Wabuha mode of dressing the, 78. -And in Uganda, 189.</li> - -<li>Halimah, the lady, sketch of, <a href="#Pagei-129">i. 129</a>. -Taken ill, <a href="#Pagei-200">200</a>. -Returns home, ii. 277.</li> - -<li>Hamdan, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death, <a href="#Pagei-2">i. 2</a>.</li> - -<li>Hamerton, Lieut.-Col., his friendship with the late Sultan of Zanzibar, <a href="#Pagei-2">i. 2</a>. -Interest taken by him in the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-3">3</a>. -His objections to an expedition into the interior <i>viâ</i> Kilwa, <a href="#Pagei-5">5</a>. -His death, <a href="#Pagei-66">66</a>. -His character, <a href="#Pagei-69">69</a>.</li> - -<li>Hamid bin Salim, his journey to the Wahumba tribe, <a href="#Pagei-311">i. 311</a>.</li> - -<li>Hammals of the Wanyamwezi, character of the, ii. 162.</li> - -<li>Hammam, or primitive form of the lamp-bath, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>.</li> - -<li>Hanga, journey to, ii. 232. -Difficulties with the porters there, 232.</li> - -<li>Hartebeest in the Doab of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-81">i. 81</a>.</li> - -<li>Hawks of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>.</li> - -<li>Hembe, or “the wild buffalo’s horn,” his village, <a href="#Pagei-72">i. 72</a>.</li> - -<li>Hides, African mode of dressing, <a href="#Pagei-236">i. 236</a>.</li> - -<li>Hilal bin Nasur, his information respecting the southern provinces, ii. 228.</li> - -<li>Hippopotami on the east coast of Africa, <a href="#Pagei-9">i. 9</a>, <a href="#Pagei-12">12</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-24">24</a>, <a href="#Pagei-56">56</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. -In the Ruche river, 52, 158. -In the sea of Ujiji, 60.</li> - -<li>Hishmat l’il gharib, or guest welcome of the Arabs of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-329">329</a>.</li> - -<li>Hogs of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">i. 300</a>.</li> - -<li>Home, African attachment for, ii. 333.</li> - -<li>Honey in Ujiji, ii. 59. -Abundance of, in East Africa, 287. -Two kinds of, 288.</li> - -<li>Houses of Kuingani, <a href="#Pagei-43">i. 43</a>. -The wayside, or kraals, <a href="#Pagei-53">53</a>, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>, <a href="#Pagei-230">230</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-97">97</a>, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>. -Of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-110">110</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-306">306</a>. -Of the Arabs in Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pagei-328">328</a>, <a href="#Pagei-329">329</a>. -Of stone, ignored by Inner Africa, <a href="#Pagei-93">93</a>. -Of the country beyond Marenga Mk’hali, called “Tembe,” <a href="#Pagei-207">207</a>. -The Tembe of the Wahete, <a href="#Pagei-240">240</a>. -The Khambi or, Kraal, <a href="#Pagei-354">354</a>. -The Tembe of the Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-366">366</a>. -Houses of East Africa generally described, <a href="#Pagei-364">364</a>, ii. 334. -Pests of the houses, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>. -Furniture, <a href="#Pagei-371">371</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. -Of Karagwah, 182, 183.</li> - -<li>Hullak, the buffoon, <a href="#Pagei-46">i. 46</a>.</li> - -<li>Hunting season in East Africa, ii. 296.</li> - -<li>Hyænas in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-276">i. 276</a>. -In Ujiji, ii. 60.</li> - -<li>Hyderabad, story of the police officer of, <a href="#Pagei-217">i. 217</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Ibanda, second sultan of Ukerewe, ii. 214.</li> - -<li>Id, son of Muallim Salim, his civility at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-399">i. 399</a>.</li> - -<li>Iguanas of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>.</li> - -<li>Ihara or Kwihara, physical features of the plain of, <a href="#Pagei-326">i. 326</a>.</li> - -<li>Ikuka of Uhehe, march to, ii. 252.</li> - -<li>Illness of the whole party at Ujiji, ii. 85, 86.</li> - -<li>Immigration in Central Africa, ii. 19.</li> - -<li>Imports and exports in East Africa, ii. 387.</li> - -<li>Indian Ocean, evening on the, <a href="#Pagei-1">i. 1</a>. -View of the Mrima from the, <a href="#Pagei-8">8</a>.</li> - -<li>Industry, commercial, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29.</li> - -<li>Inenge, basin of, <a href="#Pagei-208">i. 208</a>. -Halt at the, <a href="#Pagei-208">208</a>.</li> - -<li>Influenza, the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 13.</li> - -<li>Influenza, remedy in East Africa for, <a href="#Pagei-96">i. 96</a>.</li> - -<li>Inhospitality of Africans, ii. 131, 327.</li> - -<li>Inhumanity of the Africans, ii. 329.</li> - -<li>Insects in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-186">i. 186</a>, <a href="#Pagei-187">187</a>, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-202">202</a>. -In houses in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-370">370</a>. -In Ujiji, ii. 61.</li> - -<li>Instruments required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-153">i. 153</a>. -Breakage of, on the road, <a href="#Pagei-169">169</a>. -Accidents to which they are liable in East African travels, <a href="#Pagei-189">189</a>, <a href="#Pagei-191">191</a>.</li> - -<li>Intellect of the East African, ii. 337.</li> - -<li>Iron in Karagwah, ii. 185. -In Urori, 27. -And in Ubena, 27. -Of East Africa generally, 311.</li> - -<li>Ironga, sultan of U’ungu, defeats the Warori, ii. 75.</li> - -<li>Ironware of Uvira, ii. 121.</li> - -<li>Irora, village of, <a href="#Pagei-389">i. 389</a>. -Halt at, <a href="#Pagei-389">389</a>. -Sultan of, <a href="#Pagei-389">389</a>. -Return to, ii. 166.</li> - -<li>Irrigation, artificial, in K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-86">i. 86</a>.</li> - -<li>Isa bin Hijji, the Arab merchant, exchange of civilities with, <a href="#Pagei-208">i. 208</a>, <a href="#Pagei-211">211</a>. -Places a tembe at Kazeh at the disposal of the party, <a href="#Pagei-323">323</a>.</li> - -<li>Isa bin Hosayn, the favourite of the Sultan of Uganda, ii. 193.</li> - -<li>Ismail, the Baloch, illness of, <a href="#Pagei-381">i. 381</a>.</li> - -<li>Ititenya, settlement of, <a href="#Pagei-326">i. 326</a>.</li> - -<li>Ivory, caravan of, <a href="#Pagei-17">i. 17</a>. -Frauds perpetrated on the owners of tusks, <a href="#Pagei-17">17</a>. -Mode of buying and selling in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-39">39</a>. -Touters of Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-97">97</a>. -Mode of carrying large tusks of, <a href="#Pagei-341">341</a>, <a href="#Pagei-348">348</a>. -Price of, at Uvira, ii. 120, 121. -Ivory of Ubena, 270. -Trade in Ivory, 408.</li> - -<li>Iwanza, or public-houses, in Unyamwezi, ii. 1, 27. -Described, 27, 279, 285.</li> - -<li>Iwemba, province of, ii. 153.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Jackal, silver, of Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-242">i. 242</a>.</li> - -<li>Jambeho, arrival of the party at the settlements of, ii. 36. -Cultivation of, 36. -Scarcity of food in, 36. -Revisited, 163.</li> - -<li>Jami of Harar, Shaykh, of the Somal, <a href="#Pagei-33">i. 33</a>.</li> - -<li>Jamshid, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death, <a href="#Pagei-2">i. 2</a>.</li> - -<li>Jasmine, the, in Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-228">i. 228</a>.</li> - -<li>Jealousy of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-61">i. 61</a>.</li> - -<li>Jelai, Seedy, the Baloch, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-137">i. 137</a>.</li> - -<li>Jezirah, island of, ii. 212.</li> - -<li>Jiwe la Mkoa, or the round rock, arrival of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-286">i. 286</a>. -Description of it, <a href="#Pagei-287">287</a>; ii. 242. -Halt at, 242.</li> - -<li>Jiweni, arrival of the expedition at, <a href="#Pagei-289">i. 289</a>. -Water at, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>.</li> - -<li>Jongo, or millepedes, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18.</li> - -<li>Jua, Dar el, or home of hunger, <a href="#Pagei-69">i. 69</a>.</li> - -<li>Juma Mfumbi, Diwan of Saadani, his exaction of tribute from the Wadoe, <a href="#Pagei-123">i. 123</a>.</li> - -<li>Jungle, insect pests of the, <a href="#Pagei-186">i. 186</a>. -Fire in the jungle in summer, ii. 163.</li> - -<li>Jungle-thorn, on the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-246">i. 246</a>. -Near Kanyenye, <a href="#Pagei-271">271</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Kadetamare, arrival of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-189">i. 189</a>. -Loss of instruments at, <a href="#Pagei-189">189</a>, <a href="#Pagei-190">190</a>.</li> - -<li>Kaffirs of the Cape, date of their migration to the banks of the Kei, ii. 5.</li> - -<li>Kafuro, district of, in Karagwah, ii. 177.</li> - -<li>Kajjanjeri, village of, arrival of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-403">i. 403</a>. -Deadly climate of, <a href="#Pagei-403">403</a>.</li> - -<li>Kannena, headman of Kawele, visit to, ii. 81. -Description of him, 81. -His mode of opening trade, 82. -His ill-will, 83, 84. -Agrees to take the party to the northern extremity of the lake, 93. -His surly and drunken conduct, 97. -Starts on the voyage, 98. -His covetousness, 109. -His extravagance, 120. -His drunkenness and fate, 156.</li> - -<li>Kanoni, sultan of the Wahha tribe, ii. 79.</li> - -<li>Kanoni, minor chief of Wafanya, visit from, ii. 107. -His blackmail, 107. -Outrage committed by his people, 124.</li> - -<li>Kanyenye, country of, described, <a href="#Pagei-265">i. 265</a>. -Blackmail at, <a href="#Pagei-265">265</a>. -Sultan Magomba of, <a href="#Pagei-265">265</a>.</li> - -<li>Kaole, settlement of, described, <a href="#Pagei-12">i. 12</a>, <a href="#Pagei-13">13</a>. -The landing place of the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-22">22</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef5">Karagwah, kingdom of, ii. 177. -Extent of, 177. -Boundaries of, 178. -Climate of, 180. -People of, 181. -Dress of, 182. -Weapons of, 182. -Houses of, 182. -Sultan of, 183. -Government of, 183.</li> - -<li>Karagwah, mountains of, ii. 48, 144, 177.</li> - -<li>Kariba, river, ii. 146.</li> - -<li>Karindira, river, ii. 146.</li> - -<li>Karungu, province of, ii. 149.</li> - -<li>Kasangare, a Mvinza sultan, his subjects, <a href="#Pagei-328">i. 328</a>.</li> - -<li>Kaskazi, or N. E. monsoon, <a href="#Pagei-83">i. 83</a>.</li> - -<li>Kata, or sand-grouse, at Ziwa, <a href="#Pagei-251">i. 251</a>.</li> - -<li>Katata, or Katanga, copper in, ii. 148.</li> - -<li>Katonga, river, ii. 187.</li> - -<li>Kawele, principal village of Ujiji, ii. 53. -Attacked by the Watuta tribe, ii. 76. -Return of the expedition to, 126.</li> - -<li>Kaya, or fenced hamlets, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> - -<li>Kazeh, arrival at, <a href="#Pagei-321">i. 321</a>, <a href="#Pagei-322">322</a>. -Abdullah bin Salih’s caravan plundered at, <a href="#Pagei-321">321</a>. -Hospitality of the Arabs there, <a href="#Pagei-323">323</a>. -Revisited, ii. 167.</li> - -<li>Kazembe, sultan of Usenda, ii. 148. -Account of him, 148.</li> - -<li>Khalfan bin Muallim Salim, commands an up caravan, <a href="#Pagei-179">i. 179</a>. -His caravan attacked by small-pox, <a href="#Pagei-179">179</a>, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>. -His falsehoods, <a href="#Pagei-179">179</a>. -Spreads malevolent reports at Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-262">262</a>.</li> - -<li>Khalfan bin Khamis, his penny wise economy, <a href="#Pagei-288">i. 288</a>. -Bids adieu to the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-291">291</a>. -Overtaken half-way to Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pagei-221">221</a>. -His civility at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-399">399</a>.</li> - -<li>Khambi, or substantial kraals, of the wayside described, <a href="#Pagei-53">i. 53</a>, <a href="#Pagei-134">134</a>.</li> - -<li>Khamisi, Muinyi, and the lost furniture, ii. 168.</li> - -<li>K’hok’ho, in Ugogo, dangers of, <a href="#Pagei-272">i. 272</a>, <a href="#Pagei-274">274</a>. -Its tyrant sultan, <a href="#Pagei-274">274</a>. -Insect annoyances at, <a href="#Pagei-276">276</a>.</li> - -<li>Khudabakhsh, the Baloch, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-138">i. 138</a>. -His threats to murder the author, <a href="#Pagei-174">174</a>. -His illness in the Windy Pass, <a href="#Pagei-214">214</a>. -His conduct at Wafanya, ii. 110. -Reaches Kawele by land, 111.</li> - -<li>K’hutu, expedition enters the country of, <a href="#Pagei-86">i. 86</a>. -Irrigation in, <a href="#Pagei-86">86</a>. -Hideous and grotesque vegetation of, <a href="#Pagei-91">91</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pagei-92">92</a>. -Salt-pits of, <a href="#Pagei-92">92</a>. -Country of, described, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>. -Roads in, <a href="#Pagei-335">335</a>. -Return to, ii. 264. -Desolation of, 264.</li> - -<li>K’hutu, river <a href="#Pagei-86">i. 86</a>.</li> - -<li>Kibaiba river, ii. 146.</li> - -<li>Kibuga, in Uganda, distance from the Kitangure river to, ii. 186. -Road to, 186, 187. -Described, 188.</li> - -<li>Kibuya, sultan of Mdabura, blackmail of, <a href="#Pagei-279">i. 279</a>. -Description of him, <a href="#Pagei-279">279</a>.</li> - -<li>Kichyoma-chyoma, “the little irons,” Captain Speke afflicted with, ii. 234. -The disease described, 320.</li> - -<li>Kidogo, Muinyi, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-140">i. 140</a>. -His hatred of Said bin Salim, <a href="#Pagei-164">164</a>. -His advice to the party at Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-203">203</a>. -His words of wisdom on the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-250">250</a>. -His management, <a href="#Pagei-254">254</a>. -His quarrel with Said bin Salim, <a href="#Pagei-255">255</a>. -Makes oath at Kanyenye, that the white man would not smite the land, <a href="#Pagei-267">267</a>. -Loses his heart to a slave girl, <a href="#Pagei-314">314</a>. -His demands at Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-377">377</a>. -Dismissed at Sorora, <a href="#Pagei-402">402</a>. -Flogs Sangora, <a href="#Pagei-403">403</a>. -Sent home, ii. 277.</li> - -<li>Kidunda, or the “little hill,” camping ground of, -<a href="#Pagei-79">i. 79</a>. -Scenery of, <a href="#Pagei-79">79</a>.</li> - -<li>Kifukuru, delay of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-264">i. 264</a>. -Question of blackmail at, <a href="#Pagei-264">264</a>. -Sultan of, <a href="#Pagei-264">264</a>.</li> - -<li>Kigari, on the Tanganyika Lake, halt of the party at, ii. 101.</li> - -<li>Kigwa, or Mkigwa, halt of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>. -The ill-omened forest of, <a href="#Pagei-319">319</a>. -Sultan Manwa, <a href="#Pagei-319">319</a>.</li> - -<li>Kikoboga, basin of, traversed, ii. 262.</li> - -<li>Kikoboga river, ii. 263.</li> - -<li>Kilwa, dangers of, as an ingress point, <a href="#Pagei-4">i. 4</a>, <a href="#Pagei-5">5</a>.</li> - -<li>Kimanu, the sultan of Ubena, ii. 270.</li> - -<li>Kinanda, or harp, of East Africa, ii. 298.</li> - -<li>Kinawani, village of, arrival of the caravan at, ii. 35.</li> - -<li>Kindunda, “the hillock,” <a href="#Pagei-64">i. 64</a>.</li> - -<li>Kinganguku, march to, ii. 251.</li> - -<li>Kingani river described, <a href="#Pagei-56">i. 56</a>. -Valley of the, <a href="#Pagei-56">56</a>. -Hippopotami and crocodiles of the, <a href="#Pagei-56">56</a>. -Fish of the, <a href="#Pagei-56">56</a>. -Its malarious plain, <a href="#Pagei-69">69</a>. -Rise of the, <a href="#Pagei-87">87</a>.</li> - -<li>Kingfishers on the lake of Tanganyika, ii. 61.</li> - -<li>Kipango, or tzetze fly, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-187">i. 187</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiperepeta, march to, ii. 256.</li> - -<li>Kiranga-Ranga, the first dangerous station in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-59">i. 59</a>.</li> - -<li>Kirangozi, guide or guardian, carried by mothers in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-116">i. 116</a>.</li> - -<li>Kirangozi, or guide of the caravan, his wrath, <a href="#Pagei-221">i. 221</a>. -Description of one, <a href="#Pagei-346">346</a>. -Meeting of two, <a href="#Pagei-351">351</a>. -His treatment of his slave girl, ii. 161. -His fear of travelling northward, 172.</li> - -<li>Kiringawana mountains, <a href="#Pagei-233">i. 233</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiringawana route in the Usagara mountains described, ii. 249.</li> - -<li>Kiringawana, sultan, ii. 258.</li> - -<li>Kirira, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-392">i. 392</a>. -Hospitality of an Arab merchant at, <a href="#Pagei-392">392-394</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pagei-394">394</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiruru, or “palm leaves,” village of, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>.</li> - -<li>Kirurumo, on the Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-289">i. 289</a>. -Water obtained at, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>.</li> - -<li>Kisanga, basin of, described, ii. 257.</li> - -<li>Kisabengo, the chief headman of Inland Magogoni, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>. -Account of his depredations, <a href="#Pagei-88">88</a>.</li> - -<li>Kisawahili language, remarks on the, <a href="#Pagei-15">i. 15</a>, <i>note</i>; ii. 198.</li> - -<li>Kisesa, sultan, his blackmail, ii. 114.</li> - -<li>Kitambi, sultan of Uyuwwi, recovers part of the stolen papers, <a href="#Pagei-320">i. 320</a>.</li> - -<li>Kitangure, or river of Karagwah, <a href="#Pagei-409">i. 409</a>; ii. 144, -177, 186.</li> - -<li>Kiti, or stool, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-373">i. 373</a>.</li> - -<li>Kittara, in Kingoro, road to, ii. 187. -Wild coffee of, 187.</li> - -<li>Kivira river, ii. 197.</li> - -<li>Kiyombo, sultan of Urawwa, ii. 147.</li> - -<li>Kizaya, the P’hazi, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>. -Accompanies the expedition a part of their way, <a href="#Pagei-55">55</a>.</li> - -<li>Knobkerries of Africa, ii. 306.</li> - -<li>Kombe la Simba, the P’hazi, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>.</li> - -<li>Konduchi, march to, ii. 274. -Revisited, 276.</li> - -<li>Koodoo, the, at Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>.</li> - -<li>Koodoo horn, the bugle of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-203">i. 203</a>.</li> - -<li>Kraals of thorn, in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-230">i. 230</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-354">354</a>.</li> - -<li>Krapf, Dr., result of his mission, <a href="#Pagei-6">i. 6</a>. -His information, <a href="#Pagei-7">7</a>. -His etymological errors, <a href="#Pagei-36">36</a>, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Kuhonga, or blackmail, at Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-252">i. 252</a>. -Account of the blackmail of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-253">253</a>.</li> - -<li>Kuingani, “the cocoa-nut plantation near the sea,” <a href="#Pagei-42">i. 42</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pagei-43">43</a>. -Houses of, <a href="#Pagei-43">43</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pagei-44">44</a>.</li> - -<li>Kumbeni, isles of, <a href="#Pagei-1">i. 1</a>.</li> - -<li>Kuryamavenge river, ii. 146.</li> - -<li>Kwale, halt at the nullah of, <a href="#Pagei-315">i. 315</a>.</li> - -<li>Kwihanga, village of, described, <a href="#Pagei-396">i. 396</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Ladha Damha, pushes the expedition forward, <a href="#Pagei-11">i. 11</a>. -His conversation with Ramji, <a href="#Pagei-23">23</a>.</li> - -<li>Lakes,—Nyanza, or Ukerewe, <a href="#Pagei-311">i. 311</a>, <a href="#Pagei-409">409</a>, -ii. 175, 176, 179, -195. -Tanganyika, ii. 42, <i>et seq.</i>; <a href="#Pagei-134">134</a>, <i>et seq.</i> -Mukiziwa, ii. 147.</li> - -<li>Lakit, Arab law of, <a href="#Pagei-258">i. 258</a>.</li> - -<li>Lamp-bath of Central Asia, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>.</li> - -<li>Land-crabs in the Doab of the Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-81">i. 81</a>.</li> - -<li>Language of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-306">i. 306</a>. -Of the Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 5. -Of the Wakimbu, 20. -Of the Wanyamwezi, 30. -Specimens of the various dialects collected, 198. -Of the East Africans, 336.</li> - -<li>Leeches in Unyamwezi, ii. 18.</li> - -<li>Leopards in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-302">i. 302</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Leucæthiops amongst the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-109">i. 109</a>.</li> - -<li>Libellulæ in Unyamwezi, ii. 18.</li> - -<li>Lions in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>. -Signs of, on the road, <a href="#Pagei-172">172</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>, <a href="#Pagei-301">301</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Lizards in the houses in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-371">i. 371</a>.</li> - -<li>Locusts, or nzige, flights of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. -Varieties of, 18. -Some considered edible, 18.</li> - -<li>Lodgings on the march in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-353">i. 353</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-354">354</a>. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-354">354</a>. -In Uvinza, <a href="#Pagei-354">354</a>. -At Ujiji, <a href="#Pagei-351">351</a>.</li> - -<li>Looms in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-318">i. 318</a>; ii. 1.</li> - -<li>Lues in East Africa, ii. 321.</li> - -<li>Lunar Mountains, ii. 48, 144.</li> - -<li>Lurinda, chief of Gungu, ii. 53. -Supplies a boat on the Tanganyika lake, 87. -Enters into brotherhood with Said bin Salim, ii. 125.</li> - -<li>Lying, habit of, of the African, ii. 328.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Mabruki, Muinyi, henchman in the expedition, sketch of the character of, <a href="#Pagei-130">i. 130</a>. -His slave boy, ii. 162. -His bad behaviour, 173.</li> - -<li>Mabruki Pass, descent of the, ii. 263.</li> - -<li>Mabunguru fiumara, <a href="#Pagei-283">i. 283</a>. -Shell-fish and Silurus of the, <a href="#Pagei-284">284</a>. -Arrival of the party at the, <a href="#Pagei-285">285</a>.</li> - -<li>Macaulay, Lord, quoted, <a href="#Pagei-393">i. 393</a>.</li> - -<li>Machunda, chief sultan of Ukerewe, ii. 214.</li> - -<li>Madege Madogo, the “little birds,” district of, <a href="#Pagei-79">i. 79</a>.</li> - -<li>Madege Mkuba, “the great birds,” district of, <a href="#Pagei-79">i. 79</a>.</li> - -<li>Magic, black, or Ucháwi, how punished by the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-113">i. 113</a>, <a href="#Pagei-265">265</a>. -Mode of proceeding for ascertaining the existence of, ii. 32. -<i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef3">Mganga</a>.</li> - -<li>Magogoni, inland, country of, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>.</li> - -<li>Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, <a href="#Pagei-265">i. 265</a>. -Blackmail levied by, <a href="#Pagei-265">265</a>. -Interview with him and his court, <a href="#Pagei-266">266</a>. -Description of him, <a href="#Pagei-266">266</a>.</li> - -<li>Magugi, in Karagwah, ii. 177.</li> - -<li>Maizan, M., his death, <a href="#Pagei-6">i. 6</a>. -Sketch of his career, <a href="#Pagei-73">73</a>.</li> - -<li>Maji m’ote, or “hot water” ant, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-187">i. 187</a>.</li> - -<li>Maji ya W’heta, or jetting water, the thermal spring of, <a href="#Pagei-159">i. 159</a>. -Return to, ii. 264.</li> - -<li>Majid, Sayyid, sultan of Zanzibar, <a href="#Pagei-2">i. 2</a>. -Gives letters of introduction to the author, <a href="#Pagei-3">3</a>.</li> - -<li>Makata tank, <a href="#Pagei-181">i. 181</a>. -Forded by the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>. -Return to, ii. 262.</li> - -<li>Makata plain, march over the, ii. 261.</li> - -<li>Makimoni, on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 126.</li> - -<li>Makutaniro, adventures at, <a href="#Pagei-69">i. 69</a>.</li> - -<li>Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pagei-334">i. 334</a>, <a href="#Pagei-337">337</a>. ii. 36, -39, 47, 49. -First sighted by the party, 407. -Described, 408, 409. -Courses of the, 409. -Crossed, 410. -Return of the party to the, 164.</li> - -<li>Mallok, the Jemadar, sketch of his character and personal appearance, <a href="#Pagei-133">i. 133</a>. -His desertion, and return, <a href="#Pagei-173">173</a>. -Becomes troublesome, <a href="#Pagei-381">381</a>, <a href="#Pagei-382">382</a>. -His refusal to -go northwards, ii. 172. -Influence of bakhshish, 172. -Sent home, ii. 277.</li> - -<li>Mamaletua, on the Tanganyika lake, halt of the party at, ii. 115. -Civility of the people of, 115.</li> - -<li>M’ana Miaha, sultan of K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-272">i. 272</a>. -Description of him, <a href="#Pagei-274">274</a>. -His extortionate blackmail, <a href="#Pagei-274">274</a>.</li> - -<li>Mananzi, or pine-apple, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-66">i. 66</a>.</li> - -<li>Manda, the petty chief at Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-89">i. 89</a>. -Expedition sent against him, <a href="#Pagei-89">89</a>.</li> - -<li>Mandama, or Dungomaro, river, arrival of the caravan at the, <a href="#Pagei-222">i. 222</a>. -Description of the bed of the, <a href="#Pagei-223">223</a>.</li> - -<li>Mangrove forest on the east coast of Africa, <a href="#Pagei-9">i. 9</a>. -Of the Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-62">62</a>.</li> - -<li>Manners and customs of the Wamrima, <a href="#Pagei-35">i. 35</a>, <a href="#Pagei-37">37</a>. -Of the Wasawahili, <a href="#Pagei-37">37</a>. -Of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-108">108</a> <i>et seq.</i> -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Of the Wadoe, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>. -Of the Wasagara, <a href="#Pagei-235">235</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>, <a href="#Pagei-310">310</a>. -Of the Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -Of the Wanyamwesi, ii. 23. -Of the Wambozwa, 152.</li> - -<li>Mansanza, sultan of Msene, <a href="#Pagei-396">i. 396</a>. -His hospital, <a href="#Pagei-396">396</a>. -His firm rule, <a href="#Pagei-396">396</a>. -His wives, <a href="#Pagei-396">396</a>, <a href="#Pagei-399">399</a>. -His visits to the author, <a href="#Pagei-399">399</a>.</li> - -<li>Manufactures of Msene, <a href="#Pagei-398">i. 398</a>.</li> - -<li>Manyora, fiumara of, <a href="#Pagei-80">i. 80</a>.</li> - -<li>Manwa, Sultan of Kigwa, his murders and robberies, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>. -His adviser, Mansur, <a href="#Pagei-319">319</a>.</li> - -<li>Maraim, Abd, or Washhenzi, the, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>.</li> - -<li>Mariki, sultan of Uyonwa, ii. 78.</li> - -<li>Marema, sultan, at the Ziwa, <a href="#Pagei-254">i. 254</a>.</li> - -<li>Marenga Mk’hali, or “brackish water,” river, <a href="#Pagei-200">i. 200</a>, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-259">259</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pagei-203">203</a>. -Upper, water of the, <a href="#Pagei-247">247</a>, <a href="#Pagei-271">271</a>.</li> - -<li>Maroro, basin of, its fertility, ii. 254. -The place described, 255.</li> - -<li>Maroro river, <a href="#Pagei-231">i. 231</a>.</li> - -<li>Marriage amongst the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-118">i. 118</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 24. -In East Africa generally, 332.</li> - -<li>Marsh fever, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>, <a href="#Pagei-84">84</a>. -Delirium of, <a href="#Pagei-84">84</a>.</li> - -<li>Martins in the Rufuta plains, <a href="#Pagei-183">i. 183</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 17.</li> - -<li>“Marts,” custom of, in South Africa, ii. 54.</li> - -<li>Marungu, land of, ii. 149. -Provinces of, 149. -Roads in, 149. -Description of the country, 150. -History of an Arab caravan in, 151. -People of, 152.</li> - -<li>Maruta, sultan of Uvira, ii. 116. -Visit from his sons, 117. -Description of them, 117. -His blackmail, 120.</li> - -<li>Masenza, arrival of the party at the village of, <a href="#Pagei-406">i. 406</a>, <a href="#Pagei-407">407</a>.</li> - -<li>Masika, or rainy season, in the second region, <a href="#Pagei-231">i. 231</a>, <a href="#Pagei-232">232</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-378">378</a>.</li> - -<li>Mason-wasps of the houses in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li>Masud ibn Musallam el Wardi, sent to Msimbira to recover the stolen papers, <a href="#Pagei-325">i. 325</a>. -His hospitality, <a href="#Pagei-392">392</a>.</li> - -<li>Masui, village of, ii. 229, 231.</li> - -<li>Masury, M. Sam., his kindness to the author, <a href="#Pagei-22">i. 22</a>.</li> - -<li>Mat-weaving in East Africa, ii. 316.</li> - -<li>Maunga Tafuna, province of, ii. 153.</li> - -<li>Maura, or Maula, a sultan of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-316">i. 316</a>. -Visits the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-316">316</a>. -His hospitality, <a href="#Pagei-316">316</a>. -Description of him, <a href="#Pagei-316">316</a>.</li> - -<li>Mauta, Wady el, or Valley of Death, <a href="#Pagei-69">i. 69</a>.</li> - -<li>Mawa, or plantain wine, ii. 180, 197. -Mode of making, 287.</li> - -<li>Mawiti, colony of Arabs at, <a href="#Pagei-326">i. 326</a>.</li> - -<li>Mazinga, or cannons, bee-hives so called in the interior, <a href="#Pagei-200">i. 200</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pagei-200">200</a>.</li> - -<li>Mazita, account of, ii. 212.</li> - -<li>Mazungera, P’hazi of Dege la Mhora, <a href="#Pagei-75">i. 75</a>. -Murders his guest, M. Maizan, <a href="#Pagei-75">75</a>, <a href="#Pagei-76">76</a>. -Haunted by the P’hepo, or spirit of his guest, <a href="#Pagei-76">76</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbarika tree, or Palma Christi, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbega, or tippet-monkey, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Mb’hali, village of, described, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbembu, a kind of medlar, in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">i. 300</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbogo, or Bos Caffer, in the plains of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-181">i. 181</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -On the Rusugi river, ii. 40.</li> - -<li>Mboni, son of Ramji, carries off a slave girl, <a href="#Pagei-290">i. 290</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbono tree of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbugani, “in the wild,” settlement of, described, <a href="#Pagei-397">i. 397</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbugu, or tree-bark, used for clothing in Ujiji, ii. 64. -Mode of preparing it, 64.</li> - -<li>Mbumi, the deserted village, <a href="#Pagei-185">i. 185</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbungo-bungo tree, a kind of nux vomica, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbuyu, or calabash tree, of East Africa, described, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>.</li> - -<li>Mchikichi tree of Ujiji, ii. 58.</li> - -<li>Mdaburu, trying march in the jungle of, <a href="#Pagei-277">i. 277</a>, <a href="#Pagei-278">278</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pagei-279">279</a>.</li> - -<li>Mdimu nullah, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>.</li> - -<li>Meals at Ujiji, ii. 89. -In East Africa, 280, 334.</li> - -<li>Measures of length in East Africa, ii. 388.</li> - -<li>Medicine chest required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-155">i. 155</a>.</li> - -<li>Melancholy, inexplicable, of travellers in tropical countries, ii. 130.</li> - -<li>Metrongoma, a wild fruit of Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-387">i. 387</a>.</li> - -<li>Mfu’uni, hill of, <a href="#Pagei-170">i. 170</a>. -Its former importance, <a href="#Pagei-171">171</a>.</li> - -<li>Mfuto mountains, <a href="#Pagei-326">i. 326</a>.</li> - -<li>Mfuto, clearing of, <a href="#Pagei-389">i. 389</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef3">Mganga, or medicine-man of East Africa, described, <a href="#Pagei-38">i. 38</a>. -His modus operandi, <a href="#Pagei-44">44</a>; ii. 358. -His office as a priest, 350. -As a physician, 352. -As a detector of sorcery, 356. -As a rain-maker, 357. -As a prophet, 358. -His minor duties, 359.</li> - -<li>Mganga, or witch of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-380">i. 380</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgazi river, <a href="#Pagei-86">i. 86</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgege fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67.</li> - -<li>Mgeta river, the, <a href="#Pagei-80">i. 80</a>, <a href="#Pagei-159">159</a>, <a href="#Pagei-160">160</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-166">166</a>; ii. 268. -Head of the, <a href="#Pagei-80">80</a>. -Mode of crossing the swollen river, <a href="#Pagei-80">80</a>. -Pestilence of the banks of the, <a href="#Pagei-127">i. 127</a>. -Fords of the, <a href="#Pagei-336">i. 336</a>; ii. 268.</li> - -<li>Mgongo T’hembo, the Elephant’s Back, arrival of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-290">i. 290</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pagei-290">290</a>. -Inhabitants of, <a href="#Pagei-290">290</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgude, or Mparamusi, tree, described, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>, <a href="#Pagei-60">60</a>, <a href="#Pagei-83">83</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgute fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67.</li> - -<li>Mgunda Mk’hali, or “the Fiery Field,” <a href="#Pagei-281">i. 281</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pagei-281">281</a>, <a href="#Pagei-282">282</a>. -Stunted vegetation of, <a href="#Pagei-282">282</a>. -Geology of, <a href="#Pagei-282">282</a>. -Scarcity of water in, <a href="#Pagei-283">283</a>. -Traversed by the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-283">283</a>. -Features of the, <a href="#Pagei-283">283</a>, <a href="#Pagei-292">292</a>.</li> - -<li>Miasma of Sorora and Kajjanjeri, <a href="#Pagei-403">i. 403</a>.</li> - -<li>Mikiziwa Lake, in Uguhha, ii. 147.</li> - -<li>Milk of cows in Ujiji, ii. 60. -As food in East Africa, 283. -Preparations of, 283.</li> - -<li>Millepedes, or jongo, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18.</li> - -<li>Mimosa trees, <a href="#Pagei-83">i. 83</a>. -Flowers of the, in Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-228">228</a>. -Trees in Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-318">318</a>. -Of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-165">165</a>.</li> - -<li>Miyandozi, sultan of Kifukaru, <a href="#Pagei-264">i. 264</a>. -Levies blackmail on the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-264">264</a>.</li> - -<li>Mji Mpia, “new town,” settlement of, described, <a href="#Pagei-397">i. 397</a>. -Bazar of, <a href="#Pagei-397">397</a>.</li> - -<li>Mkora tree, uses of the wood of the, <a href="#Pagei-374">i. 374</a>.</li> - -<li>Mkorongo tree, uses of the, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-374">i. 374</a>.</li> - -<li>Mkuba, or wild edible plum of Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-387">i. 387</a>.</li> - -<li>Mkuyu, or sycamore tree, its magnificence in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-195">i. 195</a>. -Its two varieties, <a href="#Pagei-195">195</a>, <a href="#Pagei-196">196</a>.</li> - -<li>Mkwaju la Mouani, the “Tamarind in the rains,” the village of, described, <a href="#Pagei-52">i. 52</a>.</li> - -<li>Mninga tree, wood of the, <a href="#Pagei-373">i. 373</a>. -Use of the wood, <a href="#Pagei-373">373</a>.</li> - -<li>Mnya Mtaza, headman of Ukaranga, ii. 45.</li> - -<li>Mohammed bin Khamis, sailing-master of the Artemise, <a href="#Pagei-8">i. 8</a>.</li> - -<li>Mohammed, the Baloch, the Rish Safid, or greybeard, sketch of him, -<a href="#Pagei-134">i. 134</a>. -At Kazeh, 381.</li> - -<li>Molongwe river, ii. 146.</li> - -<li>Money in East Africa, ii. 388.</li> - -<li>Mombas Mission, the, <a href="#Pagei-6">i. 6</a>, <a href="#Pagei-7">7</a>.</li> - -<li>Mongo Nullah, the, <a href="#Pagei-289">i. 289</a>. -Water obtained at the, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>.</li> - -<li>Mongoose, the, at Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>.</li> - -<li>Monkeys of Muhinyera, <a href="#Pagei-64">i. 64</a>. -Of Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">162</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Monkey-bread, ii. 221.</li> - -<li>Monsoon, the N. E., or Kaskazi, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-83">i. 83</a>, <a href="#Pagei-102">102</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 9. -Origin of the S. W. monsoon, 50. -Failure of the opportunity for comparing the hygrometry of the African and Indian monsoons, 93.</li> - -<li>Moon, Land of the. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef4">Unyamwezi</a>.</li> - -<li>Moon, her splendour at the equator, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>. -Halo or corona round the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 12.</li> - -<li>Morality, deficiency of, of the East Africans, ii. 335.</li> - -<li>Morus alba, the, in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-60">i. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Mosquitoes of East Africa described, <a href="#Pagei-182">i. 182</a>. -On the Ruche river, ii. 52, 158.</li> - -<li>Mouma islands, ii. 153.</li> - -<li>Moumo tree (Borassus flabelliformis), of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>, <a href="#Pagei-180">180</a>. -Toddy drawn from, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>.</li> - -<li>Mountains:—</li> -<li class="level1">Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-65">i. 65</a>, <a href="#Pagei-83">83</a>, <a href="#Pagei-86">86</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Jiwe la Mkoa, <a href="#Pagei-286">i. 286</a>, <a href="#Pagei-287">287</a>, <a href="#Pagei-295">295</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Karagwah, ii. 48, <a href="#Pagei-144">144</a>, <a href="#Pagei-177">177</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kilima Ngao, ii. 179.</li> -<li class="level1">Kiringawana, <a href="#Pagei-233">i. 233</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Lunar, ii. 144, <a href="#Pagei-178">178</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mfuto, <a href="#Pagei-326">i. 326</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mukondokwa, <a href="#Pagei-180">i. 180</a>, <a href="#Pagei-185">185</a>, <a href="#Pagei-194">194</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-203">203</a>, <a href="#Pagei-233">233</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ngu, or Nguru, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>, <a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Njesa, <a href="#Pagei-226">i. 226</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rubeho, <a href="#Pagei-203">i. 203</a>, <a href="#Pagei-211">211</a>, <a href="#Pagei-214">214</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-218">218</a>, <a href="#Pagei-245">245</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufuta, <a href="#Pagei-167">i. 167</a>, <a href="#Pagei-170">170</a>, <a href="#Pagei-180">180</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Uhha, ii. 160.</li> -<li class="level1">Urundi, i. 409; ii. 48.</li> -<li class="level1">Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-101">i. 101</a>, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>, <a href="#Pagei-159">159</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-160">160</a>, <a href="#Pagei-215">215</a>, <a href="#Pagei-219">219</a>, <a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-297">297</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-295">i. 295</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Wigo, <a href="#Pagei-159">i. 159</a>.</li> - -<li>Mountains, none in Unyamwezi, ii. 6.</li> - -<li>Mpagamo of Kigandu, defeated by Msimbira, <a href="#Pagei-327">i. 327</a>.</li> - -<li>Mparamusi, or Mgude, tree, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>, <a href="#Pagei-60">60</a>, <a href="#Pagei-83">83</a>.</li> - -<li>Mpete, on the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pagei-410">i. 410</a>.</li> - -<li>Mpingu tree, <a href="#Pagei-373">i. 373</a>. -Uses of the wood of the, <a href="#Pagei-373">373</a>.</li> - -<li>Mporota, a den of thieves, halt at, ii. 252.</li> - -<li>Mrima, or “hill-land,” of the East African -coast, described, <a href="#Pagei-8">i. 8</a>, <a href="#Pagei-30">30</a>. -Inhabitants of, <a href="#Pagei-30">30</a>. -Their mode of life, <a href="#Pagei-35">35</a>. -Mode of doing business in, <a href="#Pagei-39">39</a>. -Vegetation of the, <a href="#Pagei-47">47</a>. -Geography of the, <a href="#Pagei-100">100</a>. -Climate of the, <a href="#Pagei-102">102</a>, <a href="#Pagei-104">104</a>. -Diseases of the, <a href="#Pagei-105">105</a>. -Roads of the, <a href="#Pagei-105">105</a>, <a href="#Pagei-106">106</a>. -Ethnology of the, <a href="#Pagei-106">106</a>.</li> - -<li>Mororwa, sultan of Wilyankuru, <a href="#Pagei-391">i. 391</a>.</li> - -<li>Msandarusi, or copal-tree, of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>.</li> - -<li>Msene, settlement of, arrival of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-395">i. 395</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pagei-395">395</a>, <a href="#Pagei-396">396</a>. -Sultan Masawza of, <a href="#Pagei-396">396</a>. -Prices at, <a href="#Pagei-397">397</a>. -Productions of, <a href="#Pagei-397">397</a>, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>. -Currency of, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>. -Industry of, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>. -Habits of the people of, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pagei-399">399</a>.</li> - -<li>Msimbira, sultan of the Wasukuma, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>. -Papers of the party stolen and carried to him, <a href="#Pagei-320">320</a>. -Refuses to restore them, <a href="#Pagei-320">320</a>. -Send a party to cut off the road, <a href="#Pagei-321">321</a>. -Defeats Sultan Mpagamo, <a href="#Pagei-327">327</a>.</li> - -<li>Msopora, Sultan, restores the stolen goods, ii. 166.</li> - -<li>Msufi, a silk-cotton tree, in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-60">i. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Msukulio tree of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-61">i. 61</a>, <a href="#Pagei-83">83</a>.</li> - -<li>Mtanda, date of the establishment of the kingdom of, ii. 5.</li> - -<li>Mtego, or elephant traps, <a href="#Pagei-287">i. 287</a>. -Disappearance of the Jemadar in one, <a href="#Pagei-288">288</a>.</li> - -<li>Mt’hipit’hipi, or Abras precatorius, seeds of, used as an ornament, ii. 181.</li> - -<li>Mtogwe tree, a variety of Nux vomica, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-318">318</a>, <a href="#Pagei-401">401</a>.</li> - -<li>Mtumbara, Sultan, and his quarrel, ii. 157.</li> - -<li>Mtunguja tree of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Mtungulu apples in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">i. 300</a>.</li> - -<li>Mtuwwa, in Ubwari island, halt of the party at, ii. 114. -Blackmail at, 112.</li> - -<li>Mud-fish, African mode of catching, <a href="#Pagei-315">i. 315</a>.</li> - -<li>Mud-fish in the Gombe nullah, <a href="#Pagei-334">i. 334</a>.</li> - -<li>Mud, Yegea, <a href="#Pagei-83">i. 83</a>.</li> - -<li>Muhama, halt at the nullah of, <a href="#Pagei-176">i. 176</a>, <a href="#Pagei-178">178</a>.</li> - -<li>Muhinna bin Sulayman of Kazeh, his arrival at Kawele, ii. 133. -His extortion, 133.</li> - -<li>Muhinna bin Sulayman, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>.</li> - -<li>Muhiyy-el-Din, Shafehi Hazi of Zanzibar, <a href="#Pagei-7">i. 7</a>.</li> - -<li>Muhiyy-el-Din, Kazi, of the Wasawahili, <a href="#Pagei-33">i. 33</a>.</li> - -<li>Muhonge, settlement of, described, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>.</li> - -<li>Muhonyera, district of, described, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>. -Wild animals, <a href="#Pagei-63">63</a>.</li> - -<li>Mui’ Gumbi, Sultan of the Warori, ii. 271. -Defeated by Sultan Ironga, 75. -Description of him, 271.</li> - -<li>Muikamba, on the Tanganyika Lake, night spent at, ii. 115.</li> - -<li>Muingwira river, ii. 211.</li> - -<li>Muinyi Wazira, engaged to travel with the -expedition, <a href="#Pagei-52">i. 52</a>. -Sketch of his character, 129. -Requests to be allowed to depart, 314. -His debauch and dismissal, 399. -Reappears at Kazeh, ii. 168. -Ejected, 168.</li> - -<li>Muinyi, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-193">i. 193</a>. -Determined attitude of the people of, <a href="#Pagei-194">194</a>.</li> - -<li>Muinyi Chandi, passed through, <a href="#Pagei-390">i. 390</a>.</li> - -<li>Mukondokwa mountains, <a href="#Pagei-180">i. 180</a>, <a href="#Pagei-185">185</a>, <a href="#Pagei-196">196</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-197">197</a>, <a href="#Pagei-203">203</a>, <a href="#Pagei-233">233</a>. -Bleak raw air of the, <a href="#Pagei-197">197</a>.</li> - -<li>Mukondokwa river, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>, <a href="#Pagei-188">188</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-192">192</a>, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Ford of, <a href="#Pagei-188">188</a>. -Valley of the, <a href="#Pagei-192">192</a>.</li> - -<li>Mukozimo district, arrival of the party at the, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>. -Inhospitality of the chiefs of, <a href="#Pagei-407">407</a>.</li> - -<li>Mukunguru, or seasoning fever, of Unyamwezi, ii. 14.</li> - -<li>Mulberry, the whitish-green, of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-60">i. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Murchison, Sir R., his triumphant geological hypothesis, <a href="#Pagei-409">i. 409</a>. -His notice respecting the interior of Africa, <a href="#Pagei-409">409</a>, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Murunguru river, ii. 154.</li> - -<li>Murivumba, tents of the party pitched at, ii. 114. -Cannibal inhabitants of, 114.</li> - -<li>Murundusi, march to, ii. 250.</li> - -<li>Musa, the assistant Rish Safid of the party, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-138">i. 138</a>.</li> - -<li>Musa Mzuri, handsome Moses, of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>. -His return to Kazeh, ii. 223. -His history, 223. -His hospitality, 226. -Visits the expedition at Masui, 231. -His kindness, 231.</li> - -<li>Music and musical instruments in East Africa, described, ii. 291, 338. -Of the Wajiji, 98.</li> - -<li>Mutware, or Mutwale, the Lord of the Ferry of the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pagei-409">i. 409</a>.</li> - -<li>Muzungu, or white man, dangers of accompanying a, in Africa, <a href="#Pagei-10">i. 10</a>, <a href="#Pagei-11">11</a>.</li> - -<li>Muzunga Mbaya, the wicked white man, the plague of the party, ii. 239. -His civility near home, 240. -Sketch of his personal appearance, and specimen of his conversation, 244.</li> - -<li>Mvirama, a Mzaramo chief, demands rice, <a href="#Pagei-80">i. 80</a>.</li> - -<li>Mviraru, a Wazaramo chief, bars the road, <a href="#Pagei-58">i. 58</a>.</li> - -<li>Mvoro fish in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67.</li> - -<li>Mvule trees used for making canoes, ii. 147.</li> - -<li>Mwami, or wild coffee of Karagwah, ii. 180, 181, -187.</li> - -<li>Mwimbe, or mangrove trees, of the coast of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-9">i. 9</a>. -Those of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-62">62</a>.</li> - -<li>Mwimbi, bad camping ground of, ii. 262.</li> - -<li>Mwongo fruit tree, in Mb’hali, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgombi river, <a href="#Pagei-183">i. 183</a>.</li> - -<li>Myombo tree of East Africa described, <a href="#Pagei-184">i. 184</a>. -Of Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>.</li> - -<li>Mzimu, or Fetiss hut, of the Wazaramo, described, <a href="#Pagei-57">i. 57</a>. -In Ubwari Island, halt at, ii. 113. -Re-visited, 121.</li> - -<li>Mziga Mdogo, or “The Little Tamarind,” arrival of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-161">i. 161</a>.</li> - -<li>Mziga-ziga, a mode of carrying goods, <a href="#Pagei-341">i. 341</a>.</li> - -<li>Mzogera, Sultan of Uvinza, <a href="#Pagei-408">i. 408</a>. -His power, <a href="#Pagei-408">408</a>. -Settlement of blackmail with envoys of, <a href="#Pagei-408">408</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Names given to children by the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-116">i. 116</a>.</li> - -<li>Nakl, or first stage of departure, <a href="#Pagei-43">i. 43</a>.</li> - -<li>Nar, Beni, “sons of fire,” the English so called in Africa, <a href="#Pagei-31">i. 31</a>.</li> - -<li>Nautch at Kuingani described, <a href="#Pagei-45">i. 45</a>.</li> - -<li>Ndabi tree, <a href="#Pagei-196">i. 196</a>. -Fruit of the, <a href="#Pagei-196">196</a>.</li> - -<li>Ndabi, halt of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-196">i. 196</a>.</li> - -<li>Navigation of the Tanganyika Lake, antiquity of the mode of, ii. 96.</li> - -<li>Necklaces of shells worn in Ujiji, ii. 65.</li> - -<li>Nge, or scorpions, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li>Ngole, or Dendraspis, at Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>.</li> - -<li>Night in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>. -In the caravan, described, <a href="#Pagei-359">359</a>.</li> - -<li>Nile, White, Ptolemy’s notion of the origin of the, ii. 178. -Captain Speke’s supposed discovery of the sources of the, 204.</li> - -<li>Njasa, Sultan of the Wasagara, his visit to the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-199">i. 199</a>. -Description of him, <a href="#Pagei-199">199</a>. -Makes “sare” or brotherhood with Said bin Salim, <a href="#Pagei-199">199</a>.</li> - -<li>Njesa mountains, <a href="#Pagei-226">i. 226</a>.</li> - -<li>Njugu ya Nyassa, the Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, <a href="#Pagei-198">i. 198</a>.</li> - -<li>Northern kingdoms of Africa. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef5">Karagwah</a>, <a href="#IndRef6">Uganda</a>, and -<a href="#IndRef7">Unyoro</a>.</li> - -<li>Nose pincers of the Wajiji tribe, ii. 65.</li> - -<li>Nullahs, or watercourses of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-102">i. 102</a>.</li> - -<li>Nutmeg, wild, of Usui, ii. 176.</li> - -<li>Nyakahanga, in Karagwah, ii. 177.</li> - -<li>Nyanza, or Ukerewe, Lake, <a href="#Pagei-311">i. 311</a>, 439; -ii. 175, 176, 179. -Chances of exploration of the, 195. -Geography of the, 206, 210, <i>et seq.</i> -Size of the, 212. -Position of the, 211. -Commerce of the, 215. -Savage races of the, 215. -Reasons why it is not the head stream of the White Nile, 218. -Tribes dwelling near the, 219.</li> - -<li>Nyara, or Chamærops humilis, of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Nyasanga, fishing village on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 101.</li> - -<li>Nzasa, halt at the, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>.</li> - -<li>Nzige, or locusts, flights of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. -Varieties of, 18.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Oars not used on the Tanganyika Lake, -ii. 96.</li> - -<li>Ocelot, the, of Ugogi, <a href="#Pagei-242">i. 242</a>.</li> - -<li>Oil, common kind of, in East Africa, ii. 285. -Various kinds of, 285.</li> - -<li>Olive-tree unknown in East Africa, ii. 285.</li> - -<li>Olympus, the Æthiopian, ii. 179.</li> - -<li>Onions cultivated in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-330">i. 330</a>.</li> - -<li>Ophthalmia, several of the party suffer from, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-406">i. 406</a>.</li> - -<li>Ophidia in Unyamwezi, ii. 17.</li> - -<li>Ordeal for witchcraft, ii. 357. -Amongst the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-114">i. 114</a>.</li> - -<li>Ornaments worn by the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-110">i. 110</a>. -By the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Fondness of the Africans for, <a href="#Pagei-147">147</a>, <a href="#Pagei-148">148</a>, <a href="#Pagei-150">150</a>. -Of the Wasagara tribe, <a href="#Pagei-199">199</a>, <a href="#Pagei-237">237</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-305">305</a>. -Of the Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -Of the porters of caravans, <a href="#Pagei-349">349</a>. -Of sultans in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-396">396</a>. -Of the Wakimba, ii. 20. -Of the Wanyamwezi, 22. -Of the Wabuha, 78. -Of the Wabwari islanders, 113. -Of the people of Karagwah, 181.</li> - -<li>Ostriches in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-301">i. 301</a>. -Value of feathers in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-301">i. 301</a>.</li> - -<li>Outfit of the expedition, articles required for the, <a href="#Pagei-151">i. 151</a>.</li> - -<li>Oxen of Ujiji, ii. 59.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Paddles used on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 96. -Described, 96.</li> - -<li>Palm, Syphæna, <a href="#Pagei-82">i. 82</a>, <a href="#Pagei-83">83</a>.</li> - -<li>Palma Christi, or Mbarika, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Palm-oil, or mawezi, of the shores of the Lake Tanganyika, ii. 58. -Mode of extracting it, 58, 59. -Price at the lake, 59. -Uses to which it is applied, 59. -Trade in, at Wafanya, 107.</li> - -<li>Palmyra tree (Borassus flabelliformis), in the plains, <a href="#Pagei-180">i. 180</a>. -Toddy drawn from, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>. -At Yambo, <a href="#Pagei-387">387</a>. -And at Mb’hali, <a href="#Pagei-401">401</a>. -Tapped for toddy at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>.</li> - -<li>Pangani river, ii. 179.</li> - -<li>Papazi, pest of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-371">i. 371</a>.</li> - -<li>Papilionaceæ in Unyamwezi, ii. 18.</li> - -<li>Panda, village of, <a href="#Pagei-403">i. 403</a>.</li> - -<li>Pano, village of, <a href="#Pagei-389">i. 389</a>.</li> - -<li>Parugerero, district of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 37. -Salt manufacture of, 37.</li> - -<li>Partridges in the Doab of the Mgeta river <a href="#Pagei-81">i. 81</a>.</li> - -<li>Pazi bug, the, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-371">i. 371</a>.</li> - -<li>Peewit, the, in the Rufuta plains, <a href="#Pagei-183">i. 183</a>.</li> - -<li>Phantasmata in East Africa, ii. 352.</li> - -<li>P’hazi, or headmen of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>, <a href="#Pagei-113">113</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>.</li> - -<li>P’hepo, ghost or devil, African belief in, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>; ii. 352. -Exorcism, 352.</li> - -<li>Phlebotomy in East Africa, ii. 322.</li> - -<li>Pig-nuts of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-198">i. 198</a>.</li> - -<li>Pillaw in Africa, <a href="#Pagei-393">i. 393</a>. -How to boil rice, <a href="#Pagei-393">393</a>.</li> - -<li>Pine-apple, or Mananzi, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-66">i. 66</a>.</li> - -<li>Pipes in East Africa, ii. 315.</li> - -<li>Pismires, chungo-fundo or siyafu, of the banks of the rivers in East Africa, described, <a href="#Pagei-186">i. 186</a>. -Its enemy, the maji m’oto, <a href="#Pagei-187">187</a>.</li> - -<li>Pismires black, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-276">i. 276</a>.</li> - -<li>Plantain wine of Karagwah, ii. 180. -And of Uganda, 197. -Mode of making it, 287.</li> - -<li>Plantains near the Unguwwe river, ii. 41. -Of Ujiji, 58. -The staff of life in many places, 58. -Luxuriance of it, 58. -Varieties, 58. -Of Uganda, 196.</li> - -<li>Playfair, Captain R. L., his “History of Arabia Felix” quoted, <a href="#Pagei-68">i. 68</a>, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Plum, wild, of Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-387">i. 387</a>.</li> - -<li>Plundering expeditions of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-112">i. 112</a>.</li> - -<li>Poisons used for arrows in Africa, ii. 301.</li> - -<li>Polygamy amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 24.</li> - -<li>Pombe beer, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-95">i. 95</a>, <a href="#Pagei-116">116</a>, <a href="#Pagei-333">333</a>; -ii. 180, 285. -Universal use of, <a href="#Pagei-309">i. 309</a>; ii. 29. -Mode of making it, 286.</li> - -<li>Porcupines in K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-160">i. 160</a>.</li> - -<li>Porridge of the East Africans, <a href="#Pagei-35">i. 35</a>.</li> - -<li>Porridge flour, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29.</li> - -<li>Porters, or Pagazi, the Wanyamwezi, of the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-143">i. 143</a>. -Character of East African, <a href="#Pagei-144">144</a>. -In East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-337">337</a>. -Variations of porterage, <a href="#Pagei-339">339</a>. -Great weight carried sometimes by, <a href="#Pagei-341">341</a>. -Their discontent, <a href="#Pagei-343">343</a>. -Desertion of in Wilyankuru, <a href="#Pagei-391">391</a>. -Description of those hired in Ujiji, ii. 157. -Of the Warori, 271.</li> - -<li>Pottery, art of, in East Africa, ii. 313.</li> - -<li>Prices at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-397">i. 397</a>. -In the market at Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pagei-333">333</a>. -In Ujiji, ii. 72. -At Wafanya, 107. -At Uvira, 120, 121.</li> - -<li>Proverbs, Arab, <a href="#Pagei-50">i. 50</a>, <a href="#Pagei-86">86</a>, <a href="#Pagei-130">130</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-133">133</a>, <a href="#Pagei-135">135</a>, <a href="#Pagei-382">382</a>.</li> - -<li>—— African, <a href="#Pagei-31">i. 31</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Moslem, ii. 131.</li> - -<li>—— Persian, ii. 237.</li> - -<li>—— Sanscrit, <a href="#Pagei-133">i. 133</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-338">i. 338</a>.</li> - -<li>Pumpkins, junsal or boga, grown at Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-201">i. 201</a>.</li> - -<li>Punishments in Uganda, ii. 192.</li> - -<li>Punishments in East Africa, ii. 364.</li> - -<li>Punneeria coagulans of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Quaggas in Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Races of the Northern Kingdoms of Africa, ii. 174, 175.</li> - -<li>Rahmat, the Baloch, <a href="#Pagei-46">i. 46</a>.</li> - -<li>Rain at Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-156">i. 156</a>. -Autumnal, at Muhama, <a href="#Pagei-179">179</a>. -In the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-218">218</a>, <a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>, <a href="#Pagei-232">232</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-298">298</a>. -The Masika or wet season, <a href="#Pagei-378">378</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 8-10. -In the valley of the Malagarazi river, 49. -In Karagwah, 180.</li> - -<li>Rainbow, fog, in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-222">i. 222</a>.</li> - -<li>Ramji, the Banyan of Cutch, engaged to accompany the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-10">i. 10</a>. -His commercial speculation, <a href="#Pagei-20">20</a>. -His conversation with Ladha Damha, <a href="#Pagei-23">23</a>. -Visits the author at Kuingani, <a href="#Pagei-43">43</a>. -Account of him, <a href="#Pagei-43">43</a>, <a href="#Pagei-44">44</a>. -His advice, <a href="#Pagei-45">45</a>.</li> - -<li>Ramji, “sons” of, sketch of them, <a href="#Pagei-140">i. 140</a>. -Their ever-increasing baggage, <a href="#Pagei-182">182</a>. -Their quarrels with the Baloch soldiers, <a href="#Pagei-163">163</a>. -Their insolence, <a href="#Pagei-164">164</a>. -Reappear at Kazeh, ii. 168. -Allowed to take the places of porters, 227. -Return home, ii. 277.</li> - -<li>Ranæ of Unyamwezi, ii. 17. -Of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 61.</li> - -<li>Rats, field, <a href="#Pagei-160">i. 160</a>. -On the banks of the Mukondokwa river, <a href="#Pagei-193">193</a>. -House rats of Ujiji, ii. 60.</li> - -<li>Ravens of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>.</li> - -<li>Religion of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-115">i. 115</a>. -Of the East Africans, <i>ib.</i>; ii. 341. -An African’s notion of God, 348 <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Reptiles in Unyamwezi, ii. 17.</li> - -<li>Respect, tokens of, amongst the Wajiji, ii. 69.</li> - -<li>Revenge of the African, ii. 329.</li> - -<li>Revenue, sources of, in East Africa, ii. 365.</li> - -<li>Rhinoceroses at Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>. -On the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-247">247</a>. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. -The Rhinoceros horn trade of East Africa, 413.</li> - -<li>Rice, how to cook, <a href="#Pagei-393">i. 393</a>. -Red, density and rapidity of growth of, at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-397">397</a>. -Luxuriance of, in Ujiji, ii. 57. -Allowed to degenerate, 57. -Unknown in Karagwah, 180.</li> - -<li>Ricinæ of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-371">i. 371</a>.</li> - -<li>Rigby, Captain, at Zanzibar, ii. 382.</li> - -<li>Rivers:—</li> -<li class="level1">Dungomaro, or Mandama, <a href="#Pagei-222">i. 222</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Gama, <a href="#Pagei-123">i. 123</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kariba, ii. 146.</li> -<li class="level1">Karindire, ii. 146.</li> -<li class="level1">Katonga, ii. 187.</li> -<li class="level1">K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-86">i. 86</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kibaiba, ii. 146.</li> -<li class="level1">Kingani, <a href="#Pagei-56">i. 56</a>, <a href="#Pagei-69">69</a>, <a href="#Pagei-87">87</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-101">101</a>, <a href="#Pagei-123">123</a>, <a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kikoboga, ii. 263.</li> -<li class="level1">Kitangure, or Karagwah, <a href="#Pagei-409">i. 409</a>; ii. 144, -177, 186.</li> -<li class="level1">Kuryamavenge, ii. 146.</li> -<li class="level1">Malagarazi, <a href="#Pagei-334">i. 334</a>, <a href="#Pagei-337">337</a>, <a href="#Pagei-407">407</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-408">408</a>; ii. 36, 39, 47, -49, 164.</li> -<li class="level1">Mandama, or Dungomero, 222.</li> -<li class="level1">Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-200">i. 200</a>, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marenga Mk’hali, upper, <a href="#Pagei-247">i. 247</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Maroro, <a href="#Pagei-231">i. 231</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Molongwe, ii. 146.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgazi, <a href="#Pagei-86">i. 86</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgeta, <a href="#Pagei-80">i. 80</a>, <a href="#Pagei-86">86</a>, <a href="#Pagei-87">87</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-88">88</a>, <a href="#Pagei-101">101</a>, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>, <a href="#Pagei-127">127</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-159">159</a>, <a href="#Pagei-160">160</a>, <a href="#Pagei-336">336</a>; ii. 264, -268, 274.</li> -<li class="level1">Muingwira, ii. 187.</li> -<li class="level1">Mukondokwa, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>, <a href="#Pagei-181">181</a>, <a href="#Pagei-188">188</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-192">192</a>, <a href="#Pagei-216">216</a>, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Myombo, <a href="#Pagei-181">i. 181</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mwega, ii. 256.</li> -<li class="level1">Pangani, <a href="#Pagei-125">i. 125</a>; ii. 179.</li> -<li class="level1">Ruche, ii. 46, 52, 157, -158.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufiji, or Rwaha, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>, <a href="#Pagei-101">101</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>, <a href="#Pagei-216">216</a>, <a href="#Pagei-220">220</a>, <a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>; ii. 257, 270, 379.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufuta, <a href="#Pagei-167">i. 167</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ruguvu, or Luguvu, ii. 40, 52.</li> -<li class="level1">Rumangwa, ii. 149, 153.</li> -<li class="level1">Rumuma, <a href="#Pagei-197">i. 197</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rusizi, or Lusizi, ii. 117, 146.</li> -<li class="level1">Rusugi, ii. 37, 161.</li> -<li class="level1">Rwaha, or Rufiti, <a href="#Pagei-216">i. 216</a>, <a href="#Pagei-220">220</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>, <a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>, <a href="#Pagei-295">295</a>; ii. 8.</li> -<li class="level1">Tumbiri of Dr. Krapf, ii. 217.</li> -<li class="level1">Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, ii. 40, 52.</li> -<li class="level1">Yovu, ii. 257, 258.</li> -<li class="level1">Zohnwe, <a href="#Pagei-127">i. 127</a>.</li> - -<li>Riza, the Baloch, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-139">i. 139</a>.</li> - -<li>Roads in the maritime region of East Africa described, <a href="#Pagei-105">i. 105</a>, <a href="#Pagei-106">106</a>. -In the Usagara Mountains, <a href="#Pagei-230">230</a>. -From Ugogo to Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-281">281</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-302">302</a>. -In Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pagei-325">325</a>. -Description of the roads in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-335">335</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 19. -From the Malagarazi Ferry, 51.</li> - -<li>Rubeho Mountains, <a href="#Pagei-233">i. 233</a>, <a href="#Pagei-211">211</a>, <a href="#Pagei-245">245</a>.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, or “Windy Pass,” painful ascent of the, <a href="#Pagei-213">i. 213</a>. -Scenery from the summit, <a href="#Pagei-214">214</a>. -Village of Wasagara at the summit, <a href="#Pagei-218">218</a>.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, the Great, halt at the, <a href="#Pagei-215">i. 215</a>. -Dangerous illness of Capt. Speke at, <a href="#Pagei-215">215</a>. -His restoration, <a href="#Pagei-215">215</a>.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, the Little, ascent of the, <a href="#Pagei-215">i. 215</a>. -Fight between the porters and the four Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-216">216</a>.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, the Third, halt of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-221">i. 221</a>.</li> - -<li>Rubuga, arrival of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-315">i. 315</a>. -Visit from Abdullah bin Jumah and his flying caravan, <a href="#Pagei-315">315</a>. -Flood at, <a href="#Pagei-317">317</a>.</li> - -<li>Ruche river, ii. 52. -Mouth of the, 46, 157.</li> - -<li>Rudi, march to, ii. 251.</li> - -<li>Rufiji river, the, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>, <a href="#Pagei-216">216</a>, <a href="#Pagei-220">220</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>, <a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>; ii. 257, 379. -Races on the, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>.</li> - -<li>Rufita Pass in Umgara, ii. 259.</li> - -<li>Rufuta fiumara, the, <a href="#Pagei-167">i. 167</a>.</li> - -<li>Ruguvu, or Luguvu, river, ii. 40, 52. -Fords of the, <a href="#Pagei-336">i. 336</a>.</li> - -<li>Ruhembe rivulet, the, ii. 261. -Halt in the basin of the, 261.</li> - -<li>Ruhembe, Sultan, slain by the Watuta, ii. 76.</li> - -<li>Rukunda, or Lukunda, night spent at, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> - -<li>Rumanika of Karagwah, his rebellion and defeat, ii. 183. -Besieges his brother, 224.</li> - -<li>Rumuma river, described, <a href="#Pagei-197">i. 197</a>.</li> - -<li>Rumuma, halt of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-198">i. 198</a>. -Abundance of its supplies, <a href="#Pagei-198">198</a>. -Visit from the Sultan Njasa at, <a href="#Pagei-199">199</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pagei-199">199</a>.</li> - -<li>Rusimba, Sultan of Ujiji, ii. 70.</li> - -<li>Rusizi river, ii. 117, 146.</li> - -<li>Rusugi river, described, ii. 37. -Forded, 37.</li> - -<li>Ruwere, chief of Jambeho, levies “dash” on the party, ii. 36.</li> - -<li>Rwaha river, <a href="#Pagei-295">i. 295</a>, <a href="#Pagei-216">216</a>, <a href="#Pagei-220">220</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>, <a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>; ii. 257.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Sage, in Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-228">i. 228</a>.</li> - -<li>Sangale fish in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67.</li> - -<li>Said, Sayyid, Sultan of Zanzibar, the “Imaum of Muscat,” <a href="#Pagei-2">i. 2</a>. -His sons, <a href="#Pagei-2">2</a>.</li> - -<li>Salim bin Rashid, the Arab merchant, calls on Captain Burton, ii. 228.</li> - -<li>Said bin Salim, appointed Ras Kafilah, or caravan guide, to the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-9">i. 9</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-10">10</a>. -Attacked by fever, <a href="#Pagei-71">71</a>. -His terror of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-73">73</a>. -His generosity through fear, <a href="#Pagei-90">90</a>. -His character, <a href="#Pagei-129">129</a>. -His hatred of the Baloch, <a href="#Pagei-163">163</a>. -His covetousness, <a href="#Pagei-163">163</a>, <a href="#Pagei-164">164</a>. -Insolence of his slaves, <a href="#Pagei-164">164</a>. -His dispute with Kidogo, <a href="#Pagei-255">255</a>. -His fears, and neglect at Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-280">280</a>. -His inhospitality, <a href="#Pagei-287">287</a>. -His change of behaviour, <a href="#Pagei-382">382</a>. -His punishment, <a href="#Pagei-384">384</a>. -His selfishness, <a href="#Pagei-391">391</a>. -His fears, ii. 125. -Enters into brotherhood with Lurinda, 125. -And afterwards with Kannena, 126. -His carelessness of the supplies, 127. -His impertinence, 159, 160. -His attempts to thwart the expedition, 172. -Pitches tents outside Kazeh, 227. -Moves to the village of Masui, 229. -Dismissed from his stewardship, 237. -His news from Zanzibar, 261. -His terror in Uzaramo, 275. -Leaves for -home, 277. -Visits the author at Zanzibar, 382.</li> - -<li>Said bin Ali el Hinawi, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>.</li> - -<li>Said bin Majid, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>. -Return of the expedition with his caravan, ii. 157. -Separation from him, 165. -Treatment of his people at Ujiji, 84.</li> - -<li>Said bin Mohammed of Mbuamaji, and his caravan <a href="#Pagei-257">i. 257</a>. -Account of him and his family, <a href="#Pagei-258">258</a>.</li> - -<li>Said bin Mohammed, Sultan of Irora, <a href="#Pagei-389">i. 389</a>. -His surliness, <a href="#Pagei-389">389</a>. -Brought to his senses, <a href="#Pagei-389">389</a>, <a href="#Pagei-390">390</a>.</li> - -<li>Salim bin Said, the Arab merchant in Wilyankuru, <a href="#Pagei-391">i. 391</a>. -His hospitality, <a href="#Pagei-391">391</a>.</li> - -<li>Salim bin Masud, the Arab merchant, murdered, <a href="#Pagei-328">i. 328</a>, <a href="#Pagei-391">391</a>.</li> - -<li>Sanscrit proverb, <a href="#Pagei-133">i. 133</a>.</li> - -<li>Salt, demand for, in Ujiji, ii. 82. -Scarcity of, at Wafanya, 108. -Stock laid in, ii. 161.</li> - -<li>Salt-pits of K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-92">i. 92</a>.</li> - -<li>Salt-trade of Parugerero, ii. 37. -Quality of the salt, 37.</li> - -<li>Salsaparilla vine of Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-60">i. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Sare, or brother oath, of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-114">i. 114</a>. -Mode of performing the ceremony, <a href="#Pagei-114">114</a>. -Ceremony of, performed between Sultan Njasa and Said bin Salim, <a href="#Pagei-199">i. 199</a>.</li> - -<li>Sawahil, or “the shores,” geographical position of the, <a href="#Pagei-29">i. 29</a>, <a href="#Pagei-30">30</a>. -People of, described, <a href="#Pagei-30">30</a>.</li> - -<li>Sayf bin Salim, the Arab merchant, account of, <a href="#Pagei-83">i. 83</a>. -Returns to Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-128">128</a>. -His covetousness, <a href="#Pagei-128">128</a>. -Crushes a servile rebellion, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>.</li> - -<li>Scorpions of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>. -In the houses in Ujiji, ii. 61.</li> - -<li>Seasons, aspect of the, in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-298">i. 298</a>. -Eight in Zanzibar, ii. 8. -Two in Unyamwezi, 8.</li> - -<li>Seedy Mubarak Bombay, gun-carrier in the expedition, character of, <a href="#Pagei-130">i. 130</a>, <a href="#Pagei-279">279</a>. -His demand of bakhshish, ii. 173. -His peculiarities, 236. -Appointed steward, 237.</li> - -<li>Σεληνης ορος of the Greeks, locality of the, ii. 4.</li> - -<li>Servile war in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-125">i. 125</a>.</li> - -<li>Shahdad, the Baloch, sketch of him, <a href="#Pagei-135">i. 135</a>. -Left behind at Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-381">381</a>.</li> - -<li>Sharm, or shame, Oriental, <a href="#Pagei-23">i. 23</a>.</li> - -<li>Sheep of Ujiji, ii. 59.</li> - -<li>Shehe, son of Ramji, appointed Kirangozi, ii. 232. -Dismissed, 238.</li> - -<li>Shields of the Wasagara tribe, <a href="#Pagei-238">i. 238</a>. -Unknown to the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Carried by the Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 23.</li> - -<li>Shoes required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-154">i. 154</a>.</li> - -<li>Shoka, or battle-axes of the East Africans, ii. 307.</li> - -<li>Shukkah, or loin cloth, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-149">i. 149</a>. -Of the Wasagara, <a href="#Pagei-235">235</a>. -Materials of which it is made, <a href="#Pagei-236">236</a>.</li> - -<li>Siki, or vinegar of East Africa, ii. 288.</li> - -<li>Sikujui, the lady, added to the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-210">i. 210</a>. -Description of her, <a href="#Pagei-210">210</a>, <a href="#Pagei-221">221</a>.</li> - -<li>Silurus, the, of the Mabunguru fiumara, <a href="#Pagei-284">i. 284</a>.</li> - -<li>Sime, or double-edged knives, of the Wasagara, <a href="#Pagei-240">i. 240</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-306">306</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. -Of East Africa generally, 307.</li> - -<li>Singa fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68.</li> - -<li>Siroccos at Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-260">i. 260</a>.</li> - -<li>Siyafu, or black pismires, annoyances of, at K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-276">i. 276</a>.</li> - -<li>Skeletons on the road side, <a href="#Pagei-165">i. 165</a>, <a href="#Pagei-168">168</a>.</li> - -<li>Skin, colour of the, of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-108">i. 108</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Of the Wadoe, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Sebaceous odour of the, of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 20. -Warundi, 145. -Karagwah people, 181. -Skin diseases of East Africa, 320.</li> - -<li>Slave caravans of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-17">i. 17</a>. -At Tumba Ihere, <a href="#Pagei-62">62</a>. -At Zanzibar, <a href="#Pagei-50">50</a>.</li> - -<li>Slaves and slavery: kidnapping in Inland Magogoni, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>. -In Dat’humi, <a href="#Pagei-89">89</a>. -Slavery in K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-97">97</a>, <a href="#Pagei-98">98</a>, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>. -Kidnappings of the Wazegura, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>. -Pitiable scene presented by a village after a commando, <a href="#Pagei-185">185</a>. -In Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 23. -Of Ujiji, 61, 71. -Prices of slaves in, 62, 71. -Prices of Wahha slaves at Msene, 79. -Not trustworthy in Africa, 111. -Their modes of murdering their patrons, 111. -Prices of, in Uvira, 121. -In Karagwah, 184. -In Ubena, 270. -Degrading effects of the slave trade, 340, 366. -Origin of the slave trade of East Africa, 366. -Treatment of slaves, 367, 369. -Two kinds of slave trade, 368. -Kidnapping, 369. -Character of slaves, 371. -Revenge of slaves, 374, 375. -Female slaves, 375. -Prices of slaves, 375. -Number of slaves imported yearly into Zanzibar, 377. -Ease with which the slave-trade at Zanzibar could be abolished, 377.</li> - -<li>Small-pox in the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-166">i. 166</a>. -And in the up caravans, <a href="#Pagei-179">179</a>. -The porters of the party attacked by, <a href="#Pagei-180">180</a>, <a href="#Pagei-184">184</a>, <a href="#Pagei-190">190</a>. -In Khalfan’s caravan, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>. -In the caravans in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-342">342</a>. -In East Africa generally, ii. 318.</li> - -<li>Smoking parties of women at Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-388">i. 388</a>.</li> - -<li>Snay bin Amir, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-323">i. 323</a>. -Performs the guest rites there, <a href="#Pagei-323">323</a>, <a href="#Pagei-324">324</a>. -Sketch of his career, <a href="#Pagei-324">324</a>. -His visit to the Sultan of Ugunda, ii. 193. -His kindness, <a href="#Pagei-384">i. 384</a>; ii. 231.</li> - -<li>Snakes at Unyamwezi, ii. 17. -In the houses in Ujiji, 61.</li> - -<li>Snuff, Wajiji mode of taking, ii. 65.</li> - -<li>Soil, fertility of the, at Msene, <a href="#Pagei-397">i. 397</a>. -Character of the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 6. -Wondrous fertility of the, in the valley of the Malagarazi river, 49. -And of that of Ujiji, 57.</li> - -<li>Soma Giri, of the Hindus, locality of the, ii. 4.</li> - -<li>Songs of the porters of the caravan, ii. 361, 362. -Of East Africa, ii. 291.</li> - -<li>Sorghum cultivated in Ujiji, ii. 57.</li> - -<li>Sorora, or Solola, in Unyamwezi, arrival of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-401">i. 401</a>. -Its deadly climate, <a href="#Pagei-401">401</a>.</li> - -<li>Speke, Capt., his illness in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-62">i. 62</a>, <a href="#Pagei-65">65</a>, <a href="#Pagei-69">69</a>. -Shakes off his preliminary symptoms, <a href="#Pagei-71">71</a>. -Lays the foundation of a fever, <a href="#Pagei-82">82</a>. -Thoroughly prostrated, <a href="#Pagei-84">84</a>. -Recovers his health at Mzizi Mdogo, <a href="#Pagei-161">161</a>. -Again attacked at Muhama, <a href="#Pagei-179">179</a>. -And by “liver” at Rumuma, <a href="#Pagei-200">200</a>. -Dangerous illness at the Windy Pass, <a href="#Pagei-214">214</a>. -Restored, <a href="#Pagei-215">215</a>. -Unable to walk, <a href="#Pagei-286">286</a>. -Awaits reserve supplies at Kazeh, <a href="#Pagei-386">386</a>. -Rejoins the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-390">390</a>. -Tormented by ophthalmia, <a href="#Pagei-406">406</a>; ii. 86. -Starts on an expedition to explore the northern extremity of the Tanganyika Lake, 87. -Returns moist and mildewed, and nothing done, 90. -His “Journal” in “Blackwood” referred to, 90. -Quoted, 91 <i>note</i>. -A beetle in his ear, 91 <i>note</i>. -Joins the second expedition, 99. -Improvement in his health, 129. -Return journey, 157. -His deafness and dimness of vision, 169. -Leaves Kazeh for the north, 173. -Returns, 204. -His supposed discovery of the sources of the White Nile, 204. -Taken ill at Hanga, 233. -Convalescent, 240. -Sights the sea at Konduchi, 279. -Returns home, 384.</li> - -<li>Spears and assegais of the Wasagara tribe, <a href="#Pagei-237">i. 237</a>. -Of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-306">306</a>. -Of the Wahumba, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. -Of East Africa generally, 301.</li> - -<li>Spiders of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-371">i. 371</a>. -In the houses of Ujiji, ii. 61.</li> - -<li>Sport in East Africa, remarks on, <a href="#Pagei-268">i. 268</a>.</li> - -<li>Spring, hot, of Maji ya W’heta, <a href="#Pagei-159">i. 159</a>.</li> - -<li>Squirrels, red, in K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-160">i. 160</a>.</li> - -<li>Stars, their splendour at the equator, <a href="#Pagei-163">i. 163</a>.</li> - -<li>Stares, category of in Africa, ii. 129.</li> - -<li>Stationery required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-153">i. 153</a>.</li> - -<li>Steinhæuser, Dr., <a href="#Pagei-25">i. 25</a>.</li> - -<li>Storm in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pagei-69">i. 69</a>. -Those of the rainy monsoon in Unyamwezi, ii. 9. -On the Tanganyika Lake, description of a, 122.</li> - -<li>Succession and inheritance, in Unyamwezi, ii. 23.</li> - -<li>Sugar-cane, wild, or Gugu-mbua, <a href="#Pagei-71">i. 71</a>. -In Ujiji, ii. 58. -Chewed, 288.</li> - -<li>Sugar made of granulated honey, <a href="#Pagei-397">i. 397</a>.</li> - -<li>Suiya, antelope, <a href="#Pagei-269">i. 269</a>.</li> - -<li>Sulphur in Karagwah, ii. 185.</li> - -<li>Sultans, burial-places of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 26. -Power of the Sultan in this country, 31. -And in East Africa generally, ii. 362.</li> - -<li>Sun, his splendour at the equator, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>. -Ring-cloud tempering the rays of the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 12.</li> - -<li>Suna, Sultan of Uganda, ii. 188. -The Arabs’ description of him, 189. -His hundred sons, 192. -His chief officers, and mode of government, 192. -Account of a visit to him, 193.</li> - -<li>Sunset-hour on the Indian Ocean, <a href="#Pagei-1">i. 1</a>. -In the Land of the Moon, <a href="#Pagei-387">387</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 7. -In Ujiji, 89. -In East Africa generally, 289.</li> - -<li>Sunrise on the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 156.</li> - -<li>Superstitions of the Wamrima, <a href="#Pagei-38">i. 38</a>. -Of the Wagogoni, inland, <a href="#Pagei-88">88</a>. -Of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-112">112</a>, <a href="#Pagei-114">114</a>, <a href="#Pagei-115">115</a>.</li> - -<li>Supplies, shortness of, ii. 130. -Arrival of some, but inadequate for the purpose, 130.</li> - -<li>Surgery in East Africa, ii. 322.</li> - -<li>Suwarora, Sultan, his exorbitant black-mail, ii. 176.</li> - -<li>Swallows in Unyamwezi, ii. 17.</li> - -<li>Swords in East Africa, ii. 308.</li> - -<li>Sycomore tree of East Africa, the Mkuyu, its magnificence, <a href="#Pagei-195">i. 195</a>. -Its two varieties, <a href="#Pagei-195">195</a>, <a href="#Pagei-196">196</a>. -Its magnificence in Usagara, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Tailoring in Africa, ii. 201.</li> - -<li>Tamarind trees of the Usagara Mountains, <a href="#Pagei-165">i. 165</a>, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>. -Modes of preparing the fruit, <a href="#Pagei-165">165</a>. -At Mfuto, <a href="#Pagei-389">389</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef9">Tanganyika Lake, first view of the, described, ii. 42, 43. -A boat engaged on the, 45. -Seen from Ujiji, 47. -Hippopotami and crocodiles in, 60. -People of the shores of, 62, <i>et seq.</i> -Fishing in, 66. -Varieties of fish in, 67. -Failure of Captain Speke’s expedition for exploring the northern shores of, 90. -Preparations for another cruise, 93. -Description of the boats of the lake, 94. -Navigation of the, 94. -Voyage up the, 99. -Eastern shores of the, described, 100. -Fishing villages, 100. -Remarks on boating and voyaging -on the lake, 101. -Account of the island of Ubwari, 108. -Visit to the island, 113. -Further progress stopped, 117, 119. -Storm on the lake, 122. -History of the lake, ii. 134 <i>et seq.</i> -Meaning of the name, 137. -Extent and general direction of, 137. -Altitude of, 139. -Sweetness of its water, 139. -Its colour, 140. -Its depth, 140. -Its affluents, 140. -Its coasts, 141. -No effluents, 141. -Its temperature, 142. -Its ebb and flow, 143. -Physical and ethnological features of its periplus, 144. -Sunrise scenery on the lake, 156.</li> - -<li>Targes of the East Africans described, ii. 307.</li> - -<li>Tattoo, not general amongst the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-108">i. 108</a>. -Nor amongst the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Practised by the Wadoe, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 21. -Amongst the Wajiji, 63. -Of the Warundi, 145.</li> - -<li>Teeth, chipped to points by the Wasagara tribe, <a href="#Pagei-235">i. 235</a>.</li> - -<li>Tembe, the houses beyond Marenga Mk’hali so called, <a href="#Pagei-207">i. 207</a>. -Description of the Tembe of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-366">366</a>.</li> - -<li>Tembo, or palm-toddy, a favourite inebrient in Ujiji, ii. 70.</li> - -<li>Tenga, in Karagwah, ii. 177.</li> - -<li>Tent-making in Africa, ii. 201.</li> - -<li>Termites of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-201">i. 201</a>, <a href="#Pagei-202">202</a>. -In the houses of Ujiji, ii. 61.</li> - -<li>Tetemeka, or earthquakes in Unyamwezi, ii. 13.</li> - -<li>Thermometers in Africa, <a href="#Pagei-169">i. 169</a>.</li> - -<li>Thiri, or Ut’hiri, district of, ii. 215.</li> - -<li>Thirst, impatience and selfishness of, of the Baloch guard, <a href="#Pagei-205">i. 205</a>. -African impatience of, <a href="#Pagei-359">359</a>; ii. 334.</li> - -<li>Thorns, nuisance of, on the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-246">i. 246</a>.</li> - -<li>Thunder and lightning in Unyamwezi, ii. 9. -In the Malagarazi valley, 50. -In Karagwah, 180.</li> - -<li>Timber of East Africa, ii. 415.</li> - -<li>Time, difficulty of keeping, by chronometers in East African travel, <a href="#Pagei-189">i. 189</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-190">190</a>. -Second-hand watches to be preferred, <a href="#Pagei-190">190</a>.</li> - -<li>Tirikeza, or afternoon march of a caravan, <a href="#Pagei-203">i. 203</a>, <a href="#Pagei-221">221</a>. -Incidents of one, <a href="#Pagei-204">204</a>, <a href="#Pagei-205">205</a>.</li> - -<li>Tobacco, trade of, in East Africa, ii. 418.</li> - -<li>Tobacco, use of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-36">i. 36</a>. -Smoked by women in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-388">388</a>. -Chewed by Unyamwezi, ii. 28. -Tobacco of Uganda, 196. -Tobacco trade of East Africa, ii. 418.</li> - -<li>Tobacco-pipes of Eastern Africa, <a href="#Pagei-388">i. 388</a>; ii. 315.</li> - -<li>Toddy obtained from the palmyra of Msene only, <a href="#Pagei-398">i. 398</a>. -Extracted from -the Guinea-palm in Ujiji, ii. 59. -Prevalence of the use of, in Ujiji, 59, 70. -Of Zanzibar, 287.</li> - -<li>Togwa, a drink in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-333">i. 333</a>. -And in East Africa generally, ii. 286.</li> - -<li>Tombs of the Wamrima and Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-57">i. 57</a>.</li> - -<li>Tools required for the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-153">i. 153</a>.</li> - -<li>Tramontana of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, <a href="#Pagei-214">i. 214</a>.</li> - -<li>Travellers in Africa, advice to, ii. 82. -Melancholy of which travellers in tropical countries complain, 130.</li> - -<li>Travelling, characteristics of Arab, in Eastern Africa, ii. 157. -Expense of travelling in East Africa, 229.</li> - -<li>Trees in East Africa. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef8">Vegetation</a>.</li> - -<li>Tree-bark used for clothing in Ujiji, ii. 64. -Mode of preparing it, 64.</li> - -<li>Trove, treasure, Arab care of, <a href="#Pagei-258">i. 258</a>.</li> - -<li>Tumba Ihere, the P’hazi, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>. -His station, <a href="#Pagei-62">62</a>. -Slave caravans at, <a href="#Pagei-62">62</a>. -Accompanies the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-62">62</a>, <a href="#Pagei-65">65</a>.</li> - -<li>Tumbiri river of Dr. Krapf, ii. 217.</li> - -<li>Tunda, “the fruit,” malaria of the place, <a href="#Pagei-71">i. 71</a>.</li> - -<li>Tura, arrival of the caravan at the nullah of, <a href="#Pagei-291">i. 291</a>. -And at the village of, <a href="#Pagei-292">292</a>. -Astonishment of the inhabitants, <a href="#Pagei-292">292</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pagei-313">313</a>. -Return to, ii. 241.</li> - -<li>Turmeric at Muinyi Chandi, <a href="#Pagei-390">i. 390</a>.</li> - -<li>Twanigana, elected Kirangozi, ii. 239. -His conversation, 243.</li> - -<li>Twins amongst the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-116">i. 116</a>. -Treatment of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 23.</li> - -<li>Tzetze, a stinging jungle fly, <a href="#Pagei-187">i. 187</a>. -At K’hok’ho, <a href="#Pagei-276">276</a>. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Ubena, land of, described, ii. 269. -People of, 270. -Commerce and currency of, 270.</li> - -<li>Ubeyya, province of, ii. 153.</li> - -<li>Ubwari, island of, ii. 108. -De Barros’ account of, quoted, 108. -Size and position of, 108. -The expedition sails for, 112. -Inhabitants of, 113. -Halt at, 114. -Portuguese accounts of, 135.</li> - -<li id="IndRef1">Uchawi, or black magic, how punished by the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-113">i. 113</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pagei-265">265</a>. -Not generally believed in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-307">307</a>. -Mode of proceeding in cases of, ii. 32. -Belief of the East Africans generally in, 347. -Office of the mganga, 356.</li> - -<li>Ufipa, district of, on the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pagei-153">i. 153</a>. -Its fertility, <a href="#Pagei-135">135</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pagei-153">153</a>.</li> - -<li>Ufyoma, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6.</li> - -<li>Ugaga, delay at the village of, <a href="#Pagei-408">i. 408</a>, <a href="#Pagei-410">410</a>.</li> - -<li>Ugali, or flour porridge, the common food -of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-35">i. 35</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29.</li> - -<li id="IndRef6">Uganda, road to, ii. 187. -Sultan of, and his government, 188.</li> - -<li>Uganza, arrival of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> - -<li>Ugogi, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-241">i. 241</a>. -Abundance of provisions at, <a href="#Pagei-241">241</a>. -Geography of, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>. -Animals of, <a href="#Pagei-242">242</a>. -Pleasant position of, <a href="#Pagei-243">243</a>. -Its healthiness, <a href="#Pagei-243">243</a>.</li> - -<li>Ugogo, first view of, from the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-220">i. 220</a>. -The plains of, reached by the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-223">223</a>. -Scenery on the road near, <a href="#Pagei-245">245</a>. -Blackmail at, <a href="#Pagei-252">252</a>. -Entrance into, <a href="#Pagei-259">259</a>. -Description of the surrounding country, <a href="#Pagei-259">259</a>. -The calabash tree at, <a href="#Pagei-260">260</a>. -Siroccos at, <a href="#Pagei-260">260</a>. -Reception of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-261">261</a>. -Incidents of the march through, <a href="#Pagei-261">261-280</a>. -Roads from Ugogo to Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-281">281</a>. -Geography of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-294">294</a>. -Boundaries of, <a href="#Pagei-294">294</a>. -No rivers in, <a href="#Pagei-295">295</a>. -Igneous formation of, <a href="#Pagei-295">295</a>. -Houses of, <a href="#Pagei-296">296</a>. -Subsoil of, <a href="#Pagei-296">296</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pagei-297">297</a>. -Diseases of, <a href="#Pagei-299">299</a>. -Vegetation of, <a href="#Pagei-299">299</a>, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -Animals of, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>. -Roads of, <a href="#Pagei-302">302</a>. -Description of the tribes of, <a href="#Pagei-303">303</a>. -Lodging for caravans in, <a href="#Pagei-354">354</a>. -Return through, ii. 246.</li> - -<li>Ugoyye, district of, in Ujiji, ii. 53.</li> - -<li>Uhha, land of, now a desert, ii. 53. -Laid waste by the Watuta tribe, 76, 78.</li> - -<li>Uhehe, march through, ii. 250. -People of, 251.</li> - -<li>Ujiji, Sea of. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef9">Tanganyika, Lake of</a>.</li> - -<li>Ujiji, town of, lodgings for caravans in, <a href="#Pagei-354">i. 354</a>. -Arrival of the party at the, ii. 46. -Scene there, 47. -Climate of, 50, 51. -Boundaries of, 53. -Villages and districts of, 53. -Camping ground of caravans near, 54. -Distance of Ujiji from the coast, and number of stages, 55. -History of the country, 56. -Trade of, 57. -Fertility of the soil of, 57. -Bazar of, 59. -Fauna of, 60. -Slave trade of, 61. -Principal tribes in, 62. -Inconveniences of a halt at, and of a return journey from, 74. -Mode of spending the day at, 87.</li> - -<li>Ukami, depopulation of, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>.</li> - -<li>Ukaranga, or “land of ground-nuts,” on the Tanganyika Lake, arrival at, ii. 44. -Boundaries of, 52. -Wretched villages of, 52. -Apathy of the people, 52. -Etymology of the name, 52.</li> - -<li>Ukerewe, ii. 212. -Account of, 212, 213. -People of, 212. -Commerce of, 213.</li> - -<li>Ukhindu, or brab-tree, <a href="#Pagei-48">i. 48</a>.</li> - -<li>Ukona, reached by the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-318">i. 318</a>.</li> - -<li>Ukungwe, village of, <a href="#Pagei-403">i. 403</a>.</li> - -<li>Ukungwe, islands of, ii. 151.</li> - -<li>Umbilical region, protrusion of the, in the children of the Wazaramo, -ii. 117.</li> - -<li>Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, river, ii. 40, 52. -Forded, 40.</li> - -<li>Unyanguruwwe, settlement of, <a href="#Pagei-408">i. 408</a>.</li> - -<li>Unyangwira, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6.</li> - -<li>Unyanyembe district, rice lands of the, <a href="#Pagei-321">i. 321</a>. -Aspect of the land, <a href="#Pagei-321">321</a>. -Description of it, <a href="#Pagei-325">325</a>; ii. 5. -Roads in, <a href="#Pagei-325">i. 325</a>. -Its physical features, <a href="#Pagei-326">326</a>. -Its villages, <a href="#Pagei-326">326</a>. -History of the Arab settlements in, <a href="#Pagei-327">327</a>. -Food in, <a href="#Pagei-329">329</a>, <a href="#Pagei-331">331-334</a>. -Prices in, <a href="#Pagei-333">333</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef4">Unyamwezi, or the Land of the Moon, <a href="#Pagei-313">i. 313</a>. -Arrival of the caravan in the, <a href="#Pagei-314">314</a>. -Lodgings for caravans in, <a href="#Pagei-354">354</a>. -Geography of, ii. 1. -Boundaries and extent of, 2. -Altitude of, 2. -The country as known to the Portuguese, 2. -Corruptions of the name, 2, 3. -Etymology of the word, 3, 4. -Barbarous traditions of its having been a great empire, 4. -Portuguese accounts of its former greatness, 5. -Its present political condition, 5. -Its dialects, 5. -Provinces into which it is divided, 5. -General appearance of the country, 6. -Its geology, 6. -Peaceful rural beauty of the country, 7. -Water and rice fields, 7. -Versant of Unyamwezi, 8. -Its two seasons, 8. -Its rainy monsoon, 8-10. -The hot season, 11. -Diseases of the country, 11, 13, 14. -Whirlwinds and earthquakes, 11, 13. -Curious effects of the climate, 14. -Fauna of Unyamwezi, 15. -Roads in, 19. -Notice of the races of, 19.</li> - -<li>Unyoro, dependent, ii. 187.</li> - -<li id="IndRef7">Unyoro, independent, land of, ii. 197. -People of, 197.</li> - -<li>Urundi, mountains of, <a href="#Pagei-409">i. 409</a>; ii. 48. -Arrival of the expedition in the region of, 101. -People of, 107, 117. -Description of the kingdom of, 144. -Governments of, 145. -People of, 145. -Route to, 169.</li> - -<li>Uruwwa, the present terminus of trade, ii. 147. -People of, 147. -Prices at, 147.</li> - -<li>Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>, <a href="#Pagei-159">159</a>, <a href="#Pagei-215">215</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-297">297</a>, <a href="#Pagei-335">335</a>. -Ascent of the, <a href="#Pagei-160">160</a>. -Halt in the, <a href="#Pagei-161">161</a>. -Healthiness of the, <a href="#Pagei-161">161</a>. -Vegetation of the, <a href="#Pagei-162">162</a>, <a href="#Pagei-165">165</a>. -Water in the, <a href="#Pagei-218">218</a>. -Descent of the counterslope of the, <a href="#Pagei-219">219</a>. -View from the, <a href="#Pagei-220">220</a>. -Geography of the, <a href="#Pagei-225">225</a>, <i>et seq.</i> -Geology of the, <a href="#Pagei-227">227</a>. -Fruits and flowers of the, <a href="#Pagei-228">228</a>. -Magnificent trees of the, <a href="#Pagei-129">129</a>. -Water-channels and cultivation of the ground in the, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>. -Village of the, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>. -Supplies of food in the, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>. -Roads of the, <a href="#Pagei-230">230</a>. -Water -for drinking in the, <a href="#Pagei-230">230</a>. -Climate of the, <a href="#Pagei-231">231</a>. -Diseases of the, <a href="#Pagei-233">233</a>. -The tribes inhabiting the, <a href="#Pagei-233">233</a>.</li> - -<li>Usagozi, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. -March to, <a href="#Pagei-405">i. 405</a>. -Insolence of the men of, <a href="#Pagei-405">405</a>. -Description of the town of, and country around, <a href="#Pagei-405">405</a>. -Sultan and people of, <a href="#Pagei-406">406</a>.</li> - -<li>Usek’he, in Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-272">i. 272</a>.</li> - -<li>Usenda, capital of the Sultan Kazembe, ii. 148. -Trade of Usenda, 148.</li> - -<li>Usenge, arrival of the party at the clearing of, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> - -<li>Usoga, Land of, ii. 197. -People of, 197.</li> - -<li>Usui, road and route from Unyanyembe to, ii. 175. -Description of, 176. -People of, 176.</li> - -<li>Usukama, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 5.</li> - -<li>Usumbwa, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6.</li> - -<li>Utakama, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 5.</li> - -<li>Utambara, near Marungu, district of, ii. 151.</li> - -<li>Ut’hongwe, country of, ii. 52.</li> - -<li>Utumbara, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6, 176. -People of, 176.</li> - -<li>Uvinza, lodgings for caravans in, <a href="#Pagei-354">i. 354</a>. -Geography of, ii. 1, 48. -The two seasons of, 8.</li> - -<li>Uvira, southern frontier of, reached by the expedition, ii. 115, 116. -Sultan of, 116. -Blackmail at, 120. -Commerce of, 120.</li> - -<li>Uyanzi, land of, description of the, <a href="#Pagei-279">i. 279</a>.</li> - -<li>Uyonwa, principal village of Uvinza, ii. 78. -Sultan Mariki of, 78. -Tents pitched at, 161.</li> - -<li>Uyuwwi, Kitambi, sultan of, <a href="#Pagei-320">i. 320</a>.</li> - -<li>Uzaramo, the first district of, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>. -Fertility of, <a href="#Pagei-60">60</a>. -Wild animals of, <a href="#Pagei-63">63</a>. -Storm in, <a href="#Pagei-60">60</a>. -Boundaries of the territory of, <a href="#Pagei-107">107</a>. -Roads in, <a href="#Pagei-335">335</a>. -Art of narcotising fish in, ii. 67. -Re-entered, 275.</li> - -<li>Uzige, land of, described, ii. 146. -People of, 146. -Rivers of, 146.</li> - -<li>Uziraha, plain of, ii. 263.</li> - -<li>Uzungu, or White Land, African curiosity respecting, <a href="#Pagei-261">i. 261</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Valentine, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, <a href="#Pagei-131">i. 131</a>. -Taken ill, <a href="#Pagei-200">i. 200</a>, <a href="#Pagei-379">379</a>; ii. 169. -Cured by the tinctura Warburgii, 169. -His reception by the Wagogo, 263. -Sent to learn cooking, 384. -Suffers from ophthalmia, 406. -Mortally wounds a Wayfanya, ii. 124.</li> - -<li>Vegetables in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-201">i. 201</a>; ii. 283.</li> - -<li id="IndRef8">Vegetation of—</li> -<li class="level1">Bomani, road to, <a href="#Pagei-47">i. 47</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Dut’humi, <a href="#Pagei-87">i. 87</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Eastern Africa generally, <a href="#Pagei-228">i. 228</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Karagwah, ii. 180.</li> -<li class="level1">Katonga river, ii. 187.</li> -<li class="level1">K’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-91">i. 91</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kingani river, valley of the, <a href="#Pagei-56">i. 56</a>, <a href="#Pagei-69">69</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kiranga-Ranga, <a href="#Pagei-60">i. 60</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kirira, <a href="#Pagei-395">i. 395</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kiruru, <a href="#Pagei-83">i. 83</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kuingani, <a href="#Pagei-43">i. 43</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Makata tank, <a href="#Pagei-181">i. 181</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgeta river, <a href="#Pagei-166">i. 166</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-282">i. 282</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mrima, the, <a href="#Pagei-101">i. 101</a>, <a href="#Pagei-103">103</a>, <a href="#Pagei-104">104</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Msene, <a href="#Pagei-397">i. 397</a>, <i>note</i>.</li> -<li class="level1">Muhogwe, <a href="#Pagei-63">i. 63</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mukondokwa mountains, <a href="#Pagei-195">i. 195</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Murundusi, ii. 250.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufuta fiumara, <a href="#Pagei-168">i. 168</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">—— plains, <a href="#Pagei-180">i. 180</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Tanganyika Lake shores, ii. 141.</li> -<li class="level1">The road beyond Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-205">i. 205</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-246">i. 246</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Tumba Ihere, <a href="#Pagei-62">i. 62</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-275">i. 275</a>, <a href="#Pagei-299">299</a>, <a href="#Pagei-300">300</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ugoma, ii. 147.</li> -<li class="level1">Ujiji, ii. 57.</li> -<li class="level1">Unguwwe river, ii. 40.</li> -<li class="level1">Unyamwezi, ii. 6.</li> -<li class="level1">Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-162">i. 162</a>, <a href="#Pagei-165">165</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-220">220</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Uvinza in June, ii. 163.</li> -<li class="level1">Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-387">i. 387</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Zungomero, <a href="#Pagei-95">i. 95</a>.</li> - -<li>Veneration, African want of, ii. 336.</li> - -<li>Village life in East Africa, described, ii. 278.</li> - -<li>Villages of the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-102">i. 102</a>. -Of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>. -A deserted village described, <a href="#Pagei-185">185</a>. -Villages of the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>. -Of the Wahehe, <a href="#Pagei-240">240</a>. -Of East Africa generally, <a href="#Pagei-364">364</a>, <i>et seq.</i> -In Unyamwezi, ii. 7. -Of Ukaranga, <a href="#Pagei-52">52</a>.</li> - -<li>Vinegar of East Africa, ii. 288.</li> - -<li>Voandzeia subterranea, a kind of vetch, <a href="#Pagei-196">i. 196</a>, <a href="#Pagei-198">198</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Wabembe tribe, their cannibal practices, ii. 114, -146.</li> - -<li>Wabena tribes, <a href="#Pagei-304">i. 304</a>. -Described by the Arab merchants, ii. 270.</li> - -<li>Wabha tribe, their habitat, ii. 78. -Their chief village, 78. -Their personal appearance and dress, 78. -Their arms, 78. -Their women, 78.</li> - -<li>Wabisa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 150. -Their dress, 150. -Their manners and customs, 150.</li> - -<li>Wabwari, or people of Ubwari island, described, ii. 113. -Women of the, 113.</li> - -<li>Wadoe tribe, their habitat, <a href="#Pagei-123">i. 123</a>. -Their history, <a href="#Pagei-123">123</a>. -Their cannibalism, <a href="#Pagei-123">123</a>. -Their distinctive marks, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>. -Their -arms, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>. -Their customs, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>. -Subdivisions of the tribe, <a href="#Pagei-124">124</a>.</li> - -<li>Wafanya, halt at the village of, ii. 106. -Visit from the chief of, 107. -Blackmail at, 107. -Climate of, 107. -Prices at, 107.</li> - -<li>Wafipa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 153. -Their personal appearance, 153.</li> - -<li>Wafyoma race, described, ii. 176.</li> - -<li>Waganda races, described, ii. 196. -Their language, 196. -Their dress, 196.</li> - -<li>Waganga, or priests, of Urundi, their savage appearance, ii. 145. -<i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef3">Mganga</a>.</li> - -<li>Wagara, or Wagala, tribe, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>.</li> - -<li>Wagogo, their astonishment at the white man, <a href="#Pagei-263">i. 263</a>. -Habitat of the, <a href="#Pagei-303">303</a>, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Extent of the country of the, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Complexion of the, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -The ear-ornaments of the, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Distinctive mark of the, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Modes of wearing the hair, <a href="#Pagei-304">304</a>. -Women of the, <a href="#Pagei-305">305</a>. -Dress of the, <a href="#Pagei-305">305</a>. -Ornaments of the, <a href="#Pagei-305">305</a>. -Arms of the, <a href="#Pagei-306">306</a>. -Villages of the, <a href="#Pagei-306">306</a>. -Language of the, <a href="#Pagei-306">306</a>. -Their dislike of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-307">307</a>. -Their strength of numbers, <a href="#Pagei-307">307</a>. -Not much addicted to black magic, <a href="#Pagei-307">307</a>. -Their commerce, <a href="#Pagei-308">308</a>. -Their greediness, <a href="#Pagei-308">308</a>. -Their thievish propensities, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>. -Their idleness and debauchery, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>. -Their ill manners, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>. -Their rude hospitality, <a href="#Pagei-310">310</a>. -Authority of the Sultan of Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-310">310</a>. -Food in, <a href="#Pagei-310">310</a>, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>.</li> - -<li>Wagoma tribe, their habitat, ii. 147.</li> - -<li>Waguhha tribe, habitat of the, ii. 147. -Lake in their country, 147. -Roads, 147.</li> - -<li>Wahayya tribe, the, ii. 187.</li> - -<li>Wahehe tribe, their habitat, <a href="#Pagei-239">i. 239</a>. -Their thievish propensities, <a href="#Pagei-239">239</a>. -Their distension of their ear-lobes, <a href="#Pagei-239">239</a>. -Distinctive marks of the tribe, <a href="#Pagei-239">239</a>. -Their dress, <a href="#Pagei-239">239</a>. -Their arms, <a href="#Pagei-240">240</a>. -Their villages, flocks, and herds, <a href="#Pagei-240">240</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahha tribe, their country laid waste, ii. 76, 78. -Their present habitat, 79. -Wahha slaves, 79.</li> - -<li>Wahinda tribe, account of the, ii. 219. -Their habitat, 219. -Their dress, 220. -Their manners and customs, 220.</li> - -<li>Wahuma class of Karagwah, described, ii. 181, 182.</li> - -<li>Wahumba tribe, the bandit, <a href="#Pagei-203">i. 203</a>. -Haunts of the, seen in the distance, <a href="#Pagei-205">205</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahumba, or Wamasai, tribe, ii. 215. -Attack the villages of Inenge, <a href="#Pagei-213">i. 213</a>. -Haunts of, <a href="#Pagei-259">259</a>. -Slavery among the, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>. -Dialect of the, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Habitat of the, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Seldom visited by travellers, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Complexion of the, <a href="#Pagei-311">311</a>. -Dress, manners, and customs of the, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -Dwellings of the, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>. -Arms of the, <a href="#Pagei-312">312</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahumba Hills, <a href="#Pagei-295">i. 295</a>, <a href="#Pagei-297">297</a>.</li> - -<li>Wajiji tribe, the, described, ii. 62. -Rudeness and violence of, 62, 68. -Diseases of, 63. -Practice of tattooing amongst, 63. -Ornaments and dress of, 63, 64. -Cosmetics of, 63. -Mode of taking snuff of, 65. -Fishermen of the lake of Tanganyika, 66. -Ceremoniousness of the Wajiji, 69. -Absence of family affection amongst them, 69. -Their habits of intoxication, 69. -Power and rights of their sultan, 70. -Their government, 71. -Their commerce, 71. -Prices in Ujiji, 72. -Currency in, 73. -Musical instruments of the Wajiji, 98. -Inquisitive wonder of the people, 128. -Category of stares, 128.</li> - -<li>Wakaguru tribe, villages of the, <a href="#Pagei-168">i. 168</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakalaganza tribe, the, <a href="#Pagei-406">i. 406</a>. -Dress of the, <a href="#Pagei-406">406</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakamba, the, a sub-tribe of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-108">i. 108</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakarenga tribe, wretched villages of the, ii. 52. -Their want of energy and civilisation, 52, 74, 75.</li> - -<li>Wakatete tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149.</li> - -<li>Wakimbu race, account of the, ii. 19. -Villages of the, 19. -Dress and characteristic marks of the, 20. -Arms of the, 20. -Ornaments of the, 20. -Language of the, 20.</li> - -<li>Wakumbaku tribe, country of the, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>.</li> - -<li>Wak’hutu race, the, described, <a href="#Pagei-97">i. 97</a>. -The ivory touters of, <a href="#Pagei-97">97</a>. -Their territory, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>. -Their physical and mental qualities, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Their dress, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Their drunkenness, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Their food, <a href="#Pagei-120">120</a>. -Their government, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>. -Their dwellings, <a href="#Pagei-121">121</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakwafi tribe, slavery among the, <a href="#Pagei-309">i. 309</a>. -Their untameable character, <a href="#Pagei-309">309</a>.</li> - -<li>Wall point, <a href="#Pagei-8">i. 8</a>.</li> - -<li>Wamasai tribe, slavery among the, <a href="#Pagei-309">i. 309</a>.</li> - -<li>Wambele, Chomwi la Mtu Mku, or Headman Great Man of Precedence, <a href="#Pagei-156">i. 156</a>.</li> - -<li>Wambozwa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149. -Their government, 152. -Their personal appearance, 152. -Their manners and customs, 152.</li> - -<li>Wamrima, or “people of the Mrima,” described, <a href="#Pagei-16">i. 16</a>, <a href="#Pagei-30">30</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-32">32</a>. -Their chomwi, or headmen, <a href="#Pagei-16">16</a>. -Their dress, <a href="#Pagei-33">33</a>. -Their women, <a href="#Pagei-34">34</a>. -Their mode of life, <a href="#Pagei-35">35</a>. -Their national characteristics, <a href="#Pagei-36">36</a>. -Their habits and customs, <a href="#Pagei-37">37</a>. -Their tombs, <a href="#Pagei-57">57</a>. -Wamrima caravans, description of, <a href="#Pagei-344">344</a>. -Hospitality of the people, <a href="#Pagei-353">353</a>.</li> - -<li>Wanguru porters, desertion of the, <a href="#Pagei-52">i. 52</a>.</li> - -<li>Wanyambo, the poor class of Karagwah, described, ii. 182.</li> - -<li>Wanyamwezi porters of the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-143">i. 143</a>. -Account of the Wanyamwezi tribe, -ii. 20. -Colour of the skin of the, 20. -Effluvium from their skins, 20. -Mode of dressing the hair, 20. -Elongation of the mammæ of the women, 21. -Mark of the tribe, 21. -Dress of the, 21. -Ornaments of the, 22. -Arms of the, 22. -Manners and customs of the, 23. -Ceremonies of childbirth, 23. -Of marriage, 24. -Funerals, 25. -Houses of the Wanyamwezi, 24. -Iwanza, or public-house of the, 27. -Food of the people, 28. -Their commercial industry, 29. -Their language, 30. -Cultivation of the ground, 30, 31. -Slavery amongst them, 31, 33. -Government of the people, 31. -Notice of Sultan Fundikira, 31, 32. -Desertion of the porters, in Ugogo, 277. -Their fear of the Wagogo, 307. -Greeting of porters of the, on the road, 291.</li> - -<li>Wanyika, halt of the party at the settlement of, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>. -Blackmail at, <a href="#Pagei-407">407</a>.</li> - -<li>Wanyora race described, ii. 197.</li> - -<li>Wap’hangara, the, a subtribe of the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-108">i. 108</a>.</li> - -<li>Wapoka, country of the, ii. 153.</li> - -<li>Warburg’s tincture, an invaluable medicine, ii. 169.</li> - -<li>Warori, their meeting with the caravan, ii. 251. -The tribe described, 272. -Their raids, 272, 273. -Their personal appearance, 273. -Dress and weapons, 273. -Their food and habitations, 273.</li> - -<li>Warufiji, or people of the Rufiji river, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>.</li> - -<li>Warudi tribe, ii. 215, 219.</li> - -<li>Warugaru tribe, country of the, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>. -Their language, <a href="#Pagei-89">89</a>.</li> - -<li>Warundi tribe, noise and insolence of the, ii. 107. -Their inhospitality, 108, 117. -Their habitat, 144. -Their mode of government, 145. -Their complexion, 145. -Their personal appearance, 145. -Their dress, arms, and ornaments, 145. -Their women, 146.</li> - -<li>Wasagara tribe, thievish propensities of the, <a href="#Pagei-229">i. 229</a>. -Villages of the, <a href="#Pagei-168">168</a>. -Those of Rumuma described, <a href="#Pagei-198">198</a>. -Their ornaments and arms, <a href="#Pagei-199">199</a>. -Village of, on the summit of Rubeho, <a href="#Pagei-218">218</a>. -Villages of, on the slopes, <a href="#Pagei-221">221</a>. -Their habitat, <a href="#Pagei-234">234</a>. -Colour of their skins, <a href="#Pagei-234">234</a>. -Modes of wearing the hair, <a href="#Pagei-234">234</a>. -Distension of the ear-lobe, <a href="#Pagei-235">235</a>. -Distinctive marks of the tribe, <a href="#Pagei-235">235</a>. -Dress of the, <a href="#Pagei-235">235</a>. -Arms of the, <a href="#Pagei-237">237</a>. -Government of the, <a href="#Pagei-238">238</a>. -Houses of the, <a href="#Pagei-366">366</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasawahili, or people of the Sawahil, described, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>. -National characteristics of the, <a href="#Pagei-36">36</a>. -Their habits and customs, <a href="#Pagei-37">37</a>. -Caravans of, <a href="#Pagei-344">344</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasenze tribe, their habitat, ii. 147.</li> - -<li>Washaki tribe, the, ii. 215, -219.</li> - -<li>Washenzi, or barbarians from the interior, <a href="#Pagei-18">i. 18</a>. -Curiosity of, <a href="#Pagei-394">394</a>.</li> - -<li>Washenzi, “the conquered,” or Ahl Maraim, the, <a href="#Pagei-30">i. 30</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasps, mason, of the houses in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasui tribe, described, ii. 176.</li> - -<li>Wasukuma tribe, their thievery, <a href="#Pagei-319">i. 319</a>. -Punishment of some of them, <a href="#Pagei-320">320</a>, <a href="#Pagei-321">321</a>. -Their sultan, Msimbira, <a href="#Pagei-319">319-321</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasumbwa tribe, in Msene, <a href="#Pagei-395">i. 395</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasuop’hángá tribe, country of the, <a href="#Pagei-88">i. 88</a>.</li> - -<li>Watatura tribes, <a href="#Pagei-304">i. 304</a>; ii. 215, 220. -Their habitat, 220. -Recent history of them, 220, 221.</li> - -<li>Watches, a few second-hand, the best things for keeping time in East African travel, <a href="#Pagei-190">i. 190</a>.</li> - -<li>Water-courses, or nullahs, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-102">i. 102</a>. -In the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-229">229</a>, <a href="#Pagei-230">230</a>.</li> - -<li>Water, in the Mrima, <a href="#Pagei-102">i. 102</a>. -In the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-218">218</a>. -Scarcity of, near Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-203">203</a>. -Impatience and selfishness of thirst of the Baloch guard, <a href="#Pagei-205">205</a>. -In the Usagara mountains, <a href="#Pagei-230">230</a>. -On the road to Ugogo, <a href="#Pagei-247">247</a>. -Permission required for drawing, <a href="#Pagei-252">252</a>. -Scarcity of, at Kanyenye, <a href="#Pagei-265">265</a>. -Inhospitality of the people there, respecting, <a href="#Pagei-267">267</a>. -Scarcity of, in Mgunda Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-282">282</a>. -At the Jiwe la Mkoa, <a href="#Pagei-287">287</a>. -At Kirurumo, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>. -At Jiweni, <a href="#Pagei-289">289</a>. -On the march of the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-359">359</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 7. -Of the Tanganyika Lake, its sweetness, 139. -Want of, on the return journey, 239.</li> - -<li>Water-melons at Marenga Mk’hali, <a href="#Pagei-201">i. 201</a>. -Cultivation of, <a href="#Pagei-201">201</a>.</li> - -<li>Wat’hembe tribe, the, ii. 154.</li> - -<li>Wat’hembwe tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149.</li> - -<li>Wat’hongwe tribe, country of the, ii. 154.</li> - -<li>Wat’hongwe Kapana, Sultan, ii. 154.</li> - -<li>Watosi tribe in Msene, <a href="#Pagei-396">i. 396</a>. -Their present habitat, ii. 185. -Account of them and their manners and customs, 185.</li> - -<li>Watuta tribe, hills of the, <a href="#Pagei-408">i. 408</a>. -History of, ii. 75. -Their present habitat, 76. -Their wanderings and forays, 76, 77. -Their women, 77. -Their arms, 77. -Their tactics, 77. -Their fear of fire-arms, 77. -Their hospitality and strange traits, 77. -Their attack on the territory of Kannena, ii. 156.</li> - -<li>Wavinza tribe, <a href="#Pagei-407">i. 407</a>. -Personal appearance and character of the, ii. 75. -Arms of the, 75. -Inhospitality of the, 75. -Drunkenness of the, 75.</li> - -<li>Wavira tribe, civility of the, ii. 115.</li> - -<li>Wayfanya, return to, ii. 123. -A slave mortally wounded at, 124.</li> - -<li>Wazaramo tribe, the, <a href="#Pagei-19">i. 19</a>.</li> - -<li>Wazaramo, or Wazalamo, territory of the, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>. -Visit from the P’hazi, or headmen, <a href="#Pagei-54">i. 54</a>. -Women’s dance of ceremony, <a href="#Pagei-55">55</a>. -Tombs of the tribe, <a href="#Pagei-57">57</a>. -Stoppage of the guard of the expedition by the Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-70">70</a>. -Ethnology of the race, <a href="#Pagei-107">107</a>. -Their dialect, <a href="#Pagei-107">107</a>. -Subtribes of, <a href="#Pagei-108">108</a>. -Distinctive marks of the tribe, <a href="#Pagei-108">108</a>. -Albinos of the, <a href="#Pagei-109">109</a>. -Dress of the, <a href="#Pagei-109">109</a>. -Ornaments and arms of the, <a href="#Pagei-110">110</a>. -Houses of the, <a href="#Pagei-110">110</a>. -Character of the, <a href="#Pagei-112">112</a>. -Their government, <a href="#Pagei-113">113</a>. -The Sare, or brother oath, of the, <a href="#Pagei-114">114</a>. -Births and deaths, <a href="#Pagei-118">118</a>. -Funeral ceremonies, <a href="#Pagei-118">118</a>, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>. -“Industry” of the tribe, <a href="#Pagei-119">119</a>.</li> - -<li>Wazegura tribe, <a href="#Pagei-124">i. 124</a>. -Their habitat, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>. -Their arms, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>. -Their kidnapping practices, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>. -Their government, <a href="#Pagei-125">125</a>. -Their character, <a href="#Pagei-126">126</a>.</li> - -<li>Wazige tribe described, ii. 146.</li> - -<li>Waziraha, a subtribe of the Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-122">i. 122</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pagei-123">123</a>.</li> - -<li>Weights and measures in Zanzibar, ii. 389, 391.</li> - -<li>Weapons in East Africa, ii. 300.</li> - -<li>Weaving in East Africa, ii. 309.</li> - -<li>White land, African curiosity respecting, <a href="#Pagei-261">i. 261</a>.</li> - -<li>Whirlwinds in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 13.</li> - -<li>Wife of Sultan Magomba, <a href="#Pagei-266">i. 266</a>.</li> - -<li>Wigo hill, <a href="#Pagei-93">i. 93</a>, <a href="#Pagei-159">159</a>.</li> - -<li>Wilyankuru, Eastern, passed through, <a href="#Pagei-390">i. 390</a>.</li> - -<li>Winds in Unyamwezi, ii. 9, 10. -In Central Africa, 50. -Periodical of Lake Tanganyika, 143. -In Karagwah, ii. 180.</li> - -<li>Windy Pass, or Pass of Rubeho, painful ascent of, <a href="#Pagei-213">i. 213</a>. -Village of Wasagara at, <a href="#Pagei-218">218</a>.</li> - -<li>Wine, plantain, of Karagwah, ii. 180. -And of Uganda, 197.</li> - -<li>Wire, mode of carrying, in the expedition, <a href="#Pagei-145">i. 145</a>. -As an article of commerce, <a href="#Pagei-146">146</a>, <a href="#Pagei-150">150</a>.</li> - -<li>Witch, or mganga, of East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-380">i. 380</a>.</li> - -<li>Witchcraft, belief in, in East Africa, ii. 347. -Office of the mganga, 356.</li> - -<li>Women in East Africa, ii. 298, 330, 332, -334.</li> - -<li>—— of Karagwah, ii. 182.</li> - -<li>—— of the Wabuha, ii. 78.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wagogo, <a href="#Pagei-304">i. 304</a>, <a href="#Pagei-305">305</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-310">310</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wahehe, <a href="#Pagei-239">i. 239</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wajiji, ii. 62-64.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wak’hutu, <a href="#Pagei-120">i. 120</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wamrima, <a href="#Pagei-16">i. 16</a>, <a href="#Pagei-34">34</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-388">i. 388</a>, <a href="#Pagei-396">396</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-398">398</a>; ii. 21, 23, 24.</li> - -<li>—— —— Warundi, ii. 146.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wasagara, -<a href="#Pagei-234">i. 234</a>, <a href="#Pagei-236">236</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wataturu, ii. 221.</li> - -<li>—— —— Watuta, ii. 77.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wazaramo, <a href="#Pagei-55">i. 55</a>, <a href="#Pagei-61">61</a>, -<a href="#Pagei-63">63</a>, <a href="#Pagei-110">110</a>, <a href="#Pagei-116">116</a>, <a href="#Pagei-118">118</a>.</li> - -<li>—— “Lulliloo” of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-291">i. 291</a>.</li> - -<li>—— physicians in East Africa, ii. 323.</li> - -<li>—— Dance by themselves in East Africa, <a href="#Pagei-361">i. 361</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Handsome, at Yombo, <a href="#Pagei-388">i. 388</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Slave-girls of the coast Arabs on the march up country, <a href="#Pagei-314">i. 314</a>.</li> - -<li>—— The Iwanza, or public-houses of the women of Unyamwezi, ii. 27.</li> - -<li>—— Of the Wabwari islanders, ii. 113.</li> - -<li>Wood-apples in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pagei-318">i. 318</a>.</li> - -<li>Woodward, Mr. S. P., his description of shells brought from Tanganyika Lake, ii. 102, -<i>note</i>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Xylophagus, the, in East African houses, <a href="#Pagei-370">i. 370</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Yegea mud, <a href="#Pagei-83">i. 83</a>.</li> - -<li>Yombo, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pagei-387">i. 387</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pagei-387">387</a>. -The sunset hour at, <a href="#Pagei-387">387</a>. -Return to, ii. 166.</li> - -<li>Yovu, river, ii. 257, 258. -Forded, 258.</li> - -<li>Yovu, village of, described, <a href="#Pagei-396">i. 396</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Zanzibar, view of, from the sea, <a href="#Pagei-1">i. 1</a>. -What the island is not, <a href="#Pagei-2">2</a>. -Family, <a href="#Pagei-2">2</a>, <a href="#Pagei-3">3</a>. -History -of the word “Zanzibar,” <a href="#Pagei-28">28</a>. -Its geographical position, <a href="#Pagei-29">29</a>. -Weakness of the government of, in the interior of the continent, <a href="#Pagei-98">98</a>. -The eight seasons of, ii. 8. -Slave-trade of, 377. -Troubles in, 380. -General trade of, Appendix to vol. ii.</li> - -<li>Zawada, the lady, added to the caravan, <a href="#Pagei-210">i. 210</a>. -Her services to Capt. Speke, ii. 277.</li> - -<li>Zebras, in the Rufuta plains, <a href="#Pagei-183">i. 183</a>. -At Ziwa, <a href="#Pagei-251">251</a>. -In Unyamwezi, ii. 15.</li> - -<li>Zemzemiyah of East Africa, ii. 239.</li> - -<li>Zeze, or guitar, of East Africa, ii. 291.</li> - -<li>Zik el nafas, or asthma, remedy in East Africa for, <a href="#Pagei-96">i. 96</a>.</li> - -<li>Zimbili, halt of the caravan at, <a href="#Pagei-386">i. 386</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pagei-386">386</a>.</li> - -<li>Ziwa, or the Pond, <a href="#Pagei-244">i. 244</a>. -Water obtained from the, <a href="#Pagei-250">250</a>. -Description of the, <a href="#Pagei-251">251</a>. -Troubles of the expedition at, <a href="#Pagei-254">254</a>.</li> - -<li>Zohnwe river, <a href="#Pagei-172">i. 172</a>.</li> - -<li>Zohnwe settlement, <a href="#Pagei-173">i. 173</a>. -Adventures of the expedition at, <a href="#Pagei-173">173</a>.</li> - -<li>Zungomero, district of, described, <a href="#Pagei-93">i. 93</a>. -Commerce of, <a href="#Pagei-95">95</a>. -Attractions of, <a href="#Pagei-95">95</a>. -Food of, <a href="#Pagei-95">95-97</a>. -Cause of the ivory touters of, <a href="#Pagei-97">97</a>. -Halt of the expedition at, <a href="#Pagei-127">i. 127</a>. -Pestilence of, <a href="#Pagei-127">127</a>, <a href="#Pagei-163">163</a>. -Fresh porters engaged at, <a href="#Pagei-128">128</a>. -Life at, <a href="#Pagei-156">156</a>. -Return to, ii. 264. -Departure from, 276.</li> - -</ul><!--index--> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="tnbot" id="TN"> - -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - -<p>Spelling variants, inconsistent, archaic and unusual spelling, -hyphenation, capitalisation, use of accents, etc., also in proper and -geographical names and in non-English words, have been retained, -except as listed below. The names of peoples, tribes, other groups and -localities in particular occur in different variants. Factual and -textual errors, inconcistencies and contradictions have not been -corrected or standardised.</p> - -<p>Depending on the hard- and software used to read this text, not all elements may display as intended.</p> - -<p>Index: the deviations from the alphabetical order of the main entries have not been corrected.</p> - -<p>Page viii, ix and others: the map and Appendices may be found in Vol. 2.</p> - -<p>Page xii ff., tables: The totals given do not always correspond to the data given; this has not been corrected.</p> - -<p class="blankbefore75">Changes made:</p> - -<p>Footnotes and illustrations have been moved outside text paragraphs.</p> - -<p>Some obvious minor punctuation and printing errors have been corrected silently.</p> - -<p>In several tables and lists ditto characters („) have been replaced with the dittoed text.</p> - -<p>Page xvii: Entry Illustration “A village in K’hutu. The Silk Cotton Tree” added.</p> - -<p>In the Index, some spelling and page numbering errors have been corrected silently in order to conform to the text.</p> - -<p>Index: The Index was not included in the original Volume I, but has been copied from Volume II for the sake of -convenience and completeness.</p> - -</div><!--tnbot--> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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