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diff --git a/old/66234-0.txt b/old/66234-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b219794..0000000 --- a/old/66234-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1733 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Abergeldie Winter Book, by Eléonore -Riego de la Branchardière - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Abergeldie Winter Book - -Author: Eléonore Riego de la Branchardière - -Release Date: September 7, 2021 [eBook #66234] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK *** - - - - -[Illustration: - -THE ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK - -BY M^{LLE} RIEGO.] - - - - -THE - -ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK. - -BY - -MLLE. RIEGO DE LA BRANCHARDIERE. - -BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT ARTISTE IN NEEDLEWORK -TO H. R. H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES. - - -LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO.; -AND ALL THE BERLIN WAREHOUSES. - -1867. - -Price One Shilling. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: - -Prize Medal, 1851. - -Prize Medal, 1862. - -Prize Medal, 1862. - -Prize Medal, 1855. - -AWARDED - -“FOR THE SKILL DISPLAYED IN THE IMITATION OF OLD SPANISH - AND OTHER COSTLY LACES.” - - SEE JURORS’ REPORT, INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION.] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: - -CAPE MUFF CROSS-OVER - -VESTE PETTICOAT HOOD] - - * * * * * - - - - -THE -ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK. - - - - -OPERA HOOD. - -IN CROCHET, ORNAMENTED WITH TATTING. - -See the Frontispiece. - - - _Materials—16 skeins of Pink and the same of White single - Berlin Wool; 3 skeins of White Floss Silk. Walker’s Tricot - Needle No. 5 Bell gauge._ - - _The Tatting—A large Shuttle, and for the pearl loops a short - mesh, which measures 1¾ inches in circumference, and another 1¼ - round, are required._ - - -THE CROWN. - -Commence with the White wool and the Tricot needle; make a chain of 15 -stitches. The whole of the stitches should be worked very loosely. - -1st row—Miss the last 4 chain stitches, and work a plain crochet -stitch into the next stitch of the foundation chain; then (make 2 -chain, miss a stitch of the foundation and work 1 plain crochet stitch, -5 times); turn back. - -2nd row—Make 2 chain, miss 2, and work 1 plain stitch in the 2 chain -of the last row; repeat to the end, then to Increase work 2 chain and 1 -plain again in the last loop; turn back. - -Work 7 rows more, the same as the last, when it will be increased to 14 -loops. It should measure seven inches across without stretching. - -Work 9 rows of the same stitch, but omitting the increased loops at the -end of the rows. - -19th row—To decrease, miss the last stitch and work 1 plain in the -last loop of chain; then 2 chain and 1 plain as before, to the end. - -Work 8 rows more as the last. Then work a row of 1 chain and 1 plain in -each loop. - -Join on the Colored wool, and work a row of plain crochet all round, -working two stitches to the side of each of the white rows. - -For the second round—Work 4 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain. Repeat and -fasten off. - -Use the Floss Silk and an Embroidery Needle. Work an ordinary Cross -stitch over each of the plain stitches of the Crown, putting the needle -into the open spaces. - - -THE TATTING FLOWERS. - -1st CIRCLE—Wind the colored and White Wool together, and fill the -Shuttle with it, using the doubled wool as one thread. - -Commence a loop, work a double stitch; then using the largest mesh for -the pearl loops, work (1 pearl and 1 double alternately 16 times); draw -close; leaving a small circle in the centre about the size of the 2nd -mesh, and knotting the ends firmly together, cut them off. - -2nd CIRCLE—Use the colored wool doubled, and the second sized mesh. -Commence a loop, work 1 double, then (1 pearl and 1 double 12 times); -draw close and fasten off. - -3rd CIRCLE—Use the White Floss, and for the pearl loops the Tricot -needle can be used. Commence a loop; work 1 double, (1 pearl and 2 -double 8 times); draw close. Fasten off. - -Place the second circle over the first, and the silk one in the centre, -sewing them together with the silk, then attach them to the crown about -an inch from the edge of it. - -Make nine Flowers for the Crown and four for the Lappets. - - -THE LAPPETS. - -Work with the White wool and Tricot needle. Make a chain of 11 stitches. - -1st row—Raise 11 loops in the ordinary Tricot stitch, and work back, -see page 28. - -2nd row—Raise a loop, Increase a loop, raise 2 loops; then to -_decrease_, put the needle into the three next stitches, and bring the -wool through them all. Raise the 2 next loops as before. Increase -again, and raise the 2 last loops. There will be 11 loops on the -needle. Work back as before. Work 8 rows more as the last. - -11th row—Raise the 1st stitch and increase a loop as before; then -decrease the two next stitches, taking them together as one stitch; -take the next three loops together; then take the two next loops -together as one stitch, then Increase a loop as before, and raise the -two last loops. There will now be 9 loops. Work back. - -12th row—Raise a loop and increase as before; raise the next loop, -then take 3 together, raise a loop, increase, raise 2 loops. Work back. -Work 8 rows more as the last. - -21st row—Raise a loop and increase as before; then put the needle into -the next 5 loops, and bring the wool through them all as one stitch; -increase again and raise 2 loops: there will now be 7 loops. Work back. - -22nd row—Raise a loop and increase; then take the next 3 loops -together; increase and raise 2 loops. Work back. Work 20 rows more as -the last, or any length preferred. - -THE EDGE—With the colored wool, work loosely a row of plain crochet -all round the lappet, putting the needle into the spaces formed by the -increased stitches. 2 chain and an extra plain stitch should be made at -the two ends and centre of the first white row. - -Make sufficient of the Scallop Trimming, page 11, to go round the -Lappet, using the colored wool doubled, and the smaller mesh for the -pearl loops. For the crochet row the wool is to be single. - -THE JOINING—work with the Floss Silk, which had better be used double. -Commence at the colored row, round the Lappet, and work a plain crochet -stitch; then take out the needle and put it into the last stitch of the -Scallop Trimming, taking both edges of the plain row, bring the Floss -through; then work another plain stitch on the lappet, taking both -edges, continue joining and working a plain stitch alternately. - -Work a row of Cross stitches with the Floss silk up the centre. - -Make the other Lappet the same, sew them to the crown and attach two -flowers at each side. - - - - -MAZARIN CAPE. - - - _Materials—For the Cape, 4 ounces of single or double Wool, - and for the Trimmings 3 skeins of double Berlin Wool of a color - which contrasts; Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 7 Bell gauge, a - large Tatting Shuttle, and a round Mesh No. 1 Bell gauge._ - - -This Cape is worked in open Crochet ornamented with Tatting, see the -Frontispiece. - -It will be greatly improved if Floss Silk is introduced as described in -the Opera Hood. The centre should then be white with colored Trimming, -but any two colors that contrast will look well, as Pearl Grey with -Crimson, Mauve with Amber, or Violet with Grey. - - -THE DIVISIONS. - -Commence with the Wool for the centre, and make 15 chain stitches. - -1st row—Miss the last 4 chain and work a plain crochet stitch in the -next stitch; (then 2 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain, 5 times); turn back. It -should measure 3 inches in length without stretching. If single Wool is -used it should be worked loosely. - -2nd row—Work 3 chain, miss 1 and 1 treble in the last 2 chain; then 2 -chain, miss 2 and 1 plain in each loop of 2 chain to the end; turn back. - -3rd row—Work the same as the 2nd row. - -4th row—3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble in the last loop of chain; then 2 -chain, miss 2, and 1 plain as before to the end; and to Increase a loop -work 3 chain and 1 plain in the same loop as the last plain stitch; -turn back. - -5th row—Work the same as the 4th row. - -Repeat the last 4 rows 6 times more. As the work will increase two -loops every four rows there will now be 20 loops. It is intended that -the work should be longer at the sides than in the centre of the -division. - -30th row—3 chain, miss 1 and 1 treble; then 2 chain, miss 2 and 1 -plain as before, for 7 loops, then work 5 loops, making only 1 chain -instead of 2 chain; then work 7 loops with 2 chain, and increase in the -last loop. - -31st row—3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, then work 7 loops with 2 chain; 6 -loops with 1 chain, and 7 loops of 2 chain; then increase at the end. - -32nd row—Work 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain in each loop of chain to the -end; then 1 chain and 1 plain in the last loop. Work 2 rows more as the -last, and fasten off. - -Work five Divisions more the same, and sew the slanting sides of them -together. Three rounds of 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain, should be worked -along the neck, then commencing at the right point work a plain row up -the front, across the neck, and down the other side. - - -THE TRIMMING IN TATTING. - -THE ROSETTE—Fill the Shuttle with the Wool and using the mesh for the -pearl loops, commence a loop, work 1 double, (then make a pearl and -work a double stitch alternately for 7 loops); draw close. Keep the -Wool at the back and join it to the centre pearl. - -Work another Rosette the same, and join it to the same pearl of the -previous Rosette as before; then keep the Wool as the back and join to -the centre pearl of the last Rosette. Repeat the last Rosette until -sufficient is made for the sides and border, to which it is to be -attached by sewing it with the same colored Wool. - -The Rosettes down the Divisions are made in the same manner, but as -they are to be smaller, only 5 pearls instead of 7 pearls are to be -made for each Rosette. - -THE BALLS—Take a yard of the Wool the same color as the Tatting, split -it three times, and wind it round the tops of the first and second -fingers, take it off the fingers and wind a piece of fine thread about -three times very tightly round the middle of the wool, knotting the -ends together, also tie in a piece of the wool not split, to form the -thread to attach the Balls to the work; cut the wool at each end, -rounding it into the shape. - -Make sufficient of these Balls to go all round the Edge, placing them -about two inches apart. - - - - -RETICULE MUFF. - -IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS.—SEE FRONTISPIECE. - - - _Materials—4 skeins of Scarlet and 2 of Black double Berlin - Wool, or 4-ply Fleecy, Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 6 Bell gauge._ - - -Commence the Outside with the Black wool, and make a chain of 34 -stitches. See Instructions for this stitch page 28. - -1st row—Miss the last chain stitch. * Put the needle into the next -chain stitch, and bring the wool through it in a loop. Repeat from * -until there are 34 loops on the needle. Then join on the scarlet wool, -and “Work Back.” Join on the black wool. - -2nd row—Work with the Black wool, and raise all the loops of the last -row; then join on the scarlet wool and Work back. - -Repeat as the last row until 16 inches are worked; then, to shape the -Flap or part which falls over the pocket, work the same stitch, but -decreasing at the beginning and end of every row by taking two stitches -together until it is reduced to a point. - - -THE LINING. - -Work with the Scarlet wool and make a piece the same as the outside; -when finished it is to be made round by joining the foundation row to -the one before the flap is begun, so as to leave it on the outside. - -For the Pocket take a piece of merino or silk the length of the muff, -and about 8 inches deep double it, and sew the double part to the -Lining 4 inches below the joining; then sew one edge of the silk to the -joining. Wadding is to be placed between the lining and the outside, -which is now to be sewn at the sides and round the flap, but the -foundation row is to be joined to the other edge of the pocket. Finish -with a Fur Trimming or Border, as given in the Winter Book, 1862, round -the end and flap, which must be secured with a loop and button. - - - - -CROSSOVER SHAWL. - -IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS, WITH TATTING BORDER. - -See the Frontispiece. - - - _Materials—For the Tricot, 6 ounces of Mauve, Blue, or Magenta - 4-ply Fleecy, Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 3 Bell gauge. Berlin - Wool 8-ply can be used, or 3-ply Fleecy._ - - _For the Border, a skein of Black and two of White double - Berlin Wool, a large Shuttle, and a Mesh No. 1 Bell gauge._ - - -THE BACK. - -Commence with the Colored Fleecy, and the Tricot Needle. Make a chain -of 7 stitches. - -1st row—Miss the last chain stitch. * Put the needle into the next -stitch, and bring the wool through in a loop. Repeat from * until there -are 7 loops on the needle. Work back. See Instructions, page 28, at the -end of the book. - -2nd row—Raise the 7 loops of the 1st row, and work back. - -3rd row—Raise a loop, then Increase a loop by putting the needle -between the upright stitches; Raise 3 loops as usual; then Increase -another loop; raise the 2 last loops. Work back. - -4th row—Raise a loop, Increase, raise 5 loops, increase again, raise 2 -loops. Work back. - -5th Row—Raise a loop, increase, raise 7 loops, increase again, raise 2 -loops. Work back. - -6th row—Raise a loop, increase, then raise all the loops to within two -of the end; increase again, and raise the two last loops. Work back. -The work should be loose. As a guide for the size of the stitch, the -last row should measure 4 inches across, and these 6 rows 2½ inches in -depth. - -Work 5 rows more the same as the 6th row. - -12th row—Raise all the loops without increasing, and work back. - -Work 4 rows as the 6th row, that is increasing 2 stitches each row, and -then work every 5th row without increasing until 37 rows in all are -worked, when there will be 65 stitches. - -Work 4 rows without shaping. If for an extra size a few more rows -may be added here, and also at the plain rows on each shoulder. This -finishes the back. - -TO SHAPE THE RIGHT FRONT—1st row—Raise all the loops of the last row -until there are 28 on the needle. Work back. - -2nd and 3rd rows—Raise all the loops to the two last, then decrease by -taking these loops together as one stitch. Work back. - -4th row—Raise a loop, then decrease as before, raise the rest to the -end. Work back. - -Then work 4 rows plain without shaping. - -Repeat as the 4th row, and the 4 rows plain after it, 5 times more; -that is decreasing a stitch at the beginning of every 5th row; the left -selvedge should be quite straight. - -Then to shape the end, decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of -every 3rd row, until it is reduced to a point. - -TO SHAPE THE LEFT FRONT—1st row—Commence at the stitches left at the -back, and leaving 9 for the neck, raise the remaining 28 loops as -usual. Work back. - -2nd and 3rd rows—Work 2 rows, decreasing a loop at the beginning of -each row. All the rows must now be kept straight at the beginning. - -Work 4 rows plain, and at the end of every 5th row decrease a stitch, -in all 6 times. Then decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of -every 3rd row until it is reduced to a point. - - -THE TATTING BORDER. - -THE DOT—Fill the Shuttle with the White Wool, and use the Tricot Needle -for the pearl loops. Commence a loop, work 3 double stitches, then (1 -pearl loop and 3 double stitches twice); draw quite close and reverse -the work. - -Commence the next Dot close to the last and repeat the dot, reversing -them after each is made. Work sufficient to go all round the Tricot. - -THE EDGE—Work with the Black Wool, and commencing at the last pearl of -the Dots, crochet a plain stitch in it; then work another plain stitch -in the next pearl of the same Dot, and missing the Dot which turns -down, work a plain stitch in the 1st pearl of the next dot but one. -Repeat working a plain stitch in the two pearls of every other dot. - -THE JOINING—Work with the Black wool, and commencing at the left corner -of the Tricot, work a plain crochet stitch between the rows of it; -then, to join the Tatting, take out the needle, put it into a pearl of -a Dot, and bringing the loop through work a plain stitch on the Tricot, -and continue the same until the Tatting is joined. To round the corners -so that the Border may lie flat, the needle should be put into the -last pearl of one dot and the 1st pearl of the next, and worked as one -stitch. This should be done five or six times. With the same colored -wool as the Tricot, make sufficient of the Scalloped Trimming to go all -round, and join it to the black row of the Border with the black wool, -always putting the needle into both edges of the plain rows. - - - - -TATTING SCALLOP TRIMMING. - - - _Materials—The edging being used to ornament more than one of - the patterns in this book, the materials are given with each - article._ - -THE SCALLOPS—Fill the Shuttle with the Wool, and commencing a loop work -2 double stitches, then with the Mesh or pin (make a pearl loop and -work a double stitch alternately, until 6 loops are made); then work -another double stitch and draw the loop nearly close, leaving a space -in the centre the size of the Mesh. - -Leave three-quarters of an inch of Wool before commencing the next -Scallop. Continue them until the length is made. - -Work with the Tricot Needle; take the Tatting and, keeping the straight -edge at the top, work a plain Crochet stitch in the last pearl of the -Scallop; then work 2 plain in the space in the centre of the Scallop -and 1 plain in the last pearl. The thread which connects the Scallops -is to be worked under these stitches. Continue working 4 plain stitches -to each Scallop. - - - - -GENTLEMAN’S SOCK OR HALF-HOSE. - -RIBBED KNITTING. - - - _Materials—4 ounces of plain or speckled Fingering Yarn, and 1 - ounce of a contrasting color for the top and toe. 5 Knitting - Needles No. 17 Bell gauge_. - - -The following directions will make a full-sized Stocking, viz—12 inches -round the top of the leg, 12 inches in length from the top to the heel, -and 11 inches long in the foot. By using Needles Nos. 16 or 18 it will -make a size larger or smaller. - -THE LEG—Use the color for the top—Cast on 24 stitches on each of four -needles, keeping the fifth to make it round. - -1st round—Pearl 3 stitches and knit 3 stitches alternately all round; -in all 96 stitches. - -Work 30 rounds or two inches more the same, always knitting or pearling -the same stitches throughout the leg.—With the other color, knit 8 -inches more the same. - -TO SHAPE THE HEEL—Knit 23 stitches plain off the 1st needle which -leaves a stitch, and putting it on the 2nd needle turn back, so as to -work on the 23 stitches. Slip the 1st stitch and pearl the 22 stitches, -then, using the same needle, pearl 20 stitches off the next needle, -which leaves 4 stitches; put them on the next needle and turn back. The -53 stitches on the other needles are left for the Instep. - -1st row—Slip the 1st stitch, knit 20, pearl 1, knit 21; turn back. - -2nd row—Slip 1, pearl 42 stitches; turn back. - -Repeat the 2 last rows 22 times more. - -TO ROUND THE HEEL. 47th row—Slip 1, knit 15, knit 2 together, knit 6, -knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back, leaving 16 stitches on the other -needle. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: - -MUFFATEE. GENTLEMAN’S SOCK. BABY’S BOOT. - -LADY’S STOCKING. SLEEPING SOCK.] - - * * * * * - -48th row—Slip 1, pearl 10, turn back, leaving 14 stitches—slip 1, knit -2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back; † slip 1, -pearl 12, that is, 2 stitches on those left unworked, turn back—slip -1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back. Repeat -from † 6 times more, always knitting or pearling 2 stitches more each -time, so as every row to use two of the stitches left unworked; when -finished, there will be 25 stitches on the needle. - -THE INSTEP—Commence at the end of the 53 stitches left unworked, and -with another needle raise 23 stitches from the selvedge formed by the -rows at the right side of the heel. - -Take another needle, and knit the 25 stitches left from the heel. - -Then with the 5th needle, raise 23 stitches down the selvedge of the -left side of the heel, and with the same needle knit off the first -plain stitch of the 53. Put 51 of these instep stitches on one needle, -and place the remaining stitch on the next needle to the left. It will -now be 124 stitches round. - -1st round—Work across the instep. (Pearl 3 and knit 3, alternately -as before, 8 times) then pearl 3; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 67 -_plain_; then knit 2 together, knit 1 plain. - -2nd round—(Pearl 3 and knit 3, 8 times), pearl 3, knit the rest of the -round all plain. - -Repeat these two rounds 16 times more, knitting 2 stitches less at the -stitches marked in italics each time. - -Then knit 50 rounds the same as the 2nd round; when finished knit 20 -rounds all plain. - -THE TOE—Join on the other color and decrease thus— - -1st round—Knit 2 together, knit 37 plain, knit 2 together, knit 4 -plain. Repeat once more to finish the round. - -2nd round—All plain. - -Repeat the 2 last rounds 16 times more, knitting 2 plain less each time -instead of 37. - -Place the remaining stitches together so as to double the work, and -knitting a stitch off each needle together, cast off the remaining -stitches. - - - - -A SLEEPING SOCK. - -KNITTING.—SEE PAGE 13. - - - _Materials—For a Lady, 2 skeins of white 3-ply Fleecy, and a - pair of knitting pins, No. 12 Bell gauge; for a Gentleman the - pins must be No. 10._ - -Commence at the sole. Cast on 28 stitches. - -1st row—Slip 1, then increase a stitch by knitting the next stitch, but -before taking it off the left pin, put the needle into the back of the -same stitch and knit it off the pin; knit the rest of the row plain. -Work 9 rows more the same. - -Then work 18 rows, increasing in the same way at the beginning of every -alternate row only, which will make one side slant more than the other; -there will now be 47 stitches. - -Knit 6 rows plain, always slipping the 1st stitch. - -TO FORM THE INSTEP—Slip 1, knit 29, turn back, leaving 17 stitches on -the pin: and on the 30 stitches knit 26 rows plain. The wool will be at -the side nearest the stitches left, and with it cast 17 stitches on the -pin with the 30 stitches, in all 47 stitches; and for the other side of -the sole, knit 6 rows plain. - -Next row—Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. Then knit a row -plain. Work the last two rows 8 times more. Then 10 rows, decreasing -every row, and cast off. - -THE LEG—Return to the stitches left, and with the same pin raise 14 -stitches from the selvedge formed by the rows across the instep, thus: -put the pin into the nearest stitch at the edge, and bring the wool -through in a loop on it; then in the same manner raise 17 stitches from -the stitches cast on; there will now be 48 stitches. - -1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, then (pearl 2 and knit 2 alternately to the -end). - -Knit 29 rows more the same, then 6 rows plain, and cast off. - -Sew the sides together, then the 1st and last rows of the sole, and the -slanting sides, drawing the straight rows at the toe together. - - - - -BABY’S CROCHET BOOT. - - - _Materials—8 skeins of white and 16 of colored Single Berlin - Wool; Walker’s Penelope Crochet Needle, No. 1._ See page 13. - -Commence at the Toe, and with the colored wool make 16 chain. The work -should be tight. - -1st row—Miss 1, 7 plain, 3 plain in one stitch, 7 plain, then 1 chain -to form the selvedge, turn back. Now work in raised crochet, that is, -putting the needle into the lower edge of the stitch of the previous -row, and working a plain stitch, which will leave the upper edge in the -front. - -2nd row—Miss the 1 chain, work 8 plain always raised, then 3 stitches -in one, 8 plain as before, 1 chain, turn back. - -3rd row—Miss the 1 chain, then the rest plain; 1 chain at the end. - -Repeat the last 2 rows, 9 times more, working a stitch more before and -after the centre stitches each repeat. Then, to form the side of the -boot, - -22nd row—Miss the 1 chain, then 18 plain, still raised, 1 chain, turn -back. - -Work 37 rows more as the last, and when finished, crochet the last row -to the other half of the front. - -THE LEG—With the Colored wool commence at the centre stitch of the -front of the boot, and round the ribs formed by the side, worked thus— - -1st round—4 chain, miss a rib, 1 plain in the side of the next rib. -Repeat all round. - -2nd round—Work in the 4 chain, (1 plain, then 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 -chain, 1 plain, all in the same 4 chain). Repeat all round, and fasten -off. - -3rd round—With white wool commence at the top of the 10th rib of the 38 -rows, and keeping the little Scallops formed by the last 2 rounds down -in the front, work 1 chain, miss a rib, 1 treble in the top of the rib -not used in the 1st round. Repeat all round. - -4th round—All plain crochet. - -5th round—Work in double crochet, that is, putting the needle into both -edges of the previous round, and working a plain stitch. - -Work 14 rounds more as the last. - -20th round—4 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain. Repeat. - -21st round—5 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the 4 chain. Repeat. Join on the -colored wool. - -22nd and 23rd rounds—Work as the 21st round. Join on the white wool. - -24th and 25th rounds—Work as the 21st round. - -26th round—1 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the 5 chain. Repeat, and fasten -off. - - -THE SOLE. - -With the Colored wool make a chain of 9 stitches. - -1st row—Miss 1, 2 plain in one stitch, 7 plain, turn back. - -Now work the rest of the sole in double crochet, which being worked -backwards and forwards, will have a different effect from the leg. - -2nd row—2 plain in the first stitch, the rest plain. Work 8 rows more -the same as the last. There will now be 18 stitches. - -11th and 12th rows—Plain. - -13th row—Miss 1, the rest plain. Work 5 rows more as the last. Then 4 -rows plain. - -23rd row—2 plain in one, the rest plain. Work 7 rows more as the last. - -31st and 32nd rows—Plain. - -33rd row—Miss 1, the rest plain. Work 5 rows more the same. - -39th row—Miss 1, the rest plain to the last 2 stitches, then miss 1, 1 -plain. - -Work 3 rows more the same, and fasten off. Sew the sole to the front, -and finish with a bow and ribbon run into the open row at the leg. - - - - -LADY’S STOCKING. - -IN RIBBED KNITTING. - - - _Materials—5 ounces of Andalusian, Eider, or Welsh Yarn, 5 - Knitting Needles No. 18 Bell gauge. The following directions - will make a full size stocking, viz., 15 inches round the top - of the leg, 26 inches from the top to the heel, and 10½ inches - long in the foot. By using Nos. 19 or 17 Needles a size smaller - or larger can be made._ See Page 13. - -Commence at the top of the leg, and to make the foundation strong, -the wool should be used double in casting on the stitches. Cast on 42 -stitches on each of two needles, and 36 on the other two; keeping the -fifth for making it round. - -1st round—Pearl 3 stitches and knit 3 stitches plain alternately all -round, in all 156 stitches. Continue the same until it is 13 inches in -length. - -Always pearl or knit the same stitches throughout the leg. - -TO SHAPE THE LEG—1st round—Pearl the 3 first stitches; then to -decrease, slip 1, knit 1, and turn the slipped stitch over; knit -1 plain; pearl 3 and knit 3, to within 2 stitches of the end, and -decrease again by knitting them together. - -Knit 8 rounds without decreasing. - -Repeat the same, decreasing 2 stitches every 9th round, until it is -reduced to 120 stitches. - -In these rounds the 3 first stitches are always to be pearled; but -the few stitches immediately following will vary, on account of the -decreased stitches altering the number to be knitted or pearled. After -the decreasing is worked three times, the stitches will require to be -pearled together until the rib is decreased. - -When the work is reduced to 120 stitches, sufficient rounds are to be -worked without shaping to make it 23 inches in length from the top. - -TO FORM THE HEEL—1st row—Knit 1, pearl 1, knit 28; turn back, so as to -work on the 30 stitches, leaving the rest of the stitches unworked. - -2nd row—Slip 1, pearl 29; then pearl 27 off the next needle; in all 57 -stitches; turn back, leaving 63 stitches on the other needles for the -Instep. - -3rd row—Slip the 1st stitch, knit, 27, pearl 1, knit 28; turn back. - -4th row—Slip 1, pearl 56 stitches; turn back. Repeat the 2 last rows 25 -times more. - -TO ROUND THE HEEL—47th row—Slip 1, knit 21, knit 2 together, knit 8, -knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back, leaving 22 stitches on the other -needle. - -48th row—Slip 1, pearl 12, turn back, leaving 20 stitches—slip 1, knit -2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back; † slip 1, pearl -14—that is, 2 stitches on those left unworked, turn back—slip 1, knit 2 -together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back. Repeat from † 9 -times more, always knitting or pearling 2 stitches more each time, so -as every row to use two of the stitches left; when finished, there will -be 33 stitches. - -THE INSTEP—Take another needle and raise 26 stitches from the selvedge -formed by the rows of the left side of the Heel; then with a second -needle work across the Instep (pearling 3 and knitting 3 as before, 10 -times); then pearl 3; and with a third needle raise 26 stitches from -the right selvedge of the Heel; and with a fourth needle knit the 33 -stitches of the Heel. It will now be 148 stitches round. - -1st round—Work across the instep. (Pearl 3 and knit 3, alternately as -before, 10 times) then pearl 3; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 79 plain; -then knit 2 together, knit 1 plain. - -2nd round—(Pearl 3 and knit 3, 10 times), pearl 3, knit the rest of the -round all plain. - -Repeat these two rounds 16 times more, knitting two stitches less at -the stitches marked in italics each time. Then knit four inches the -same as the 2nd round. - -THE TOE—1st round—Knit 2 together, knit 49 plain, knit 2 together, knit -4 plain. Repeat once more to finish the round. 2nd round—All plain. - -Repeat the last 2 rounds, knitting 2 plain less each time instead of -49, until it is reduced to a few stitches. Then double the work, and -knitting a stitch off each needle together, cast them off. - - - - -ZOUAVE VESTE. - -IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS, WITH TATTING EDGE.—SEE FRONTISPIECE. - - - _Materials—6 ounces of Crimson, Mauve, Grey, or Violet 4-ply - fleecy, and Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 4 Bell gauge. For the - Border 2 skeins of White Berlin Wool, a large Shuttle, and - round mesh No. 1 Bell gauge._ - - -THE BACK. - -Commence with 7 chain and work as directed for the Back of the -Crossover, page 9, ending with the 4 plain rows. - - -TO SHAPE THE RIGHT SIDE. - -1st row—Continue working from the last row of the back. Raise 28 loops, -leaving the rest unworked for the other side. Work Back on these 28 -loops. - -2nd row—Raise all the loops of the last row to within 3 loops of the -end, then to decrease take 2 loops together as one stitch, raise the -last loop. Work back. - -3rd row—Same as 2nd row. - -4th row—Raise all the loops of the last row. Work back to within 4 -loops, of the end, keep the 5th loop on the needle, and instead of -finishing the row, put the needle into the next stitch to the _left_, -and raise a loop so as to commence the next row. - -5th row—Continue raising all the stitches of the last row. Work back -all the loops on the needle. - -6th row—Raise 4 loops, but in raising the 5th loop, put the needle into -the next stitch of the lower row, which is under the one ordinarily -used. This will prevent any space showing where the last row was -turned. Raise the rest of the row as usual. Work back. - -7th row—Raise all the loops without shaping. Work back. - -Repeat the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th rows, 5 times more. - -28th row—Raise a loop, increase a loop, then raise all the loops to -within 4 loops of the end, decrease by taking 2 loops together, and -raise the last two loops. Work back. - -29th row—Raise all the loops to within 4 of the end, then decrease, and -raise the last two loops. Work back. - -Repeat the last two rows 10 times more. Then work 5 rows, leaving 2 -loops unworked at the right end of the needle each time; which finishes -the right side. The last row is to be attached to the right side of the -first 10 rows of the back after the Border is worked. - - -THE LEFT SIDE. - -1st row—Commence at the stitches of the Back, and, leaving 9 stitches -for the neck, raise the rest of the row—in all 28 loops. Work back. - -2nd and 3rd rows—Work as usual, decreasing at the beginning of each row. - -4th row—Raise all the loops to within 4 stitches of the end of the last -row, and, leaving them unfinished. Work back. - -5th row—Raise all the loops of the last row, then raise the 4 loops of -the lower row. Work back. - -6th and 7th rows—Work the rows without shaping. - -Repeat as the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th rows, 5 times more. - -28th row—Raise a loop, then decrease. Raise all the loops to within 2 -of the end. Increase a loop, and raise the 2 loops. Work back. - -29th row—Raise a loop, decrease, then raise all the loops to the end. - -Repeat the last two rows 10 times more; then work 5 rows, leaving 2 -stitches at the left side of each row, and fasten off. After the Border -is worked, sew it to the left side of the back. - - -THE SASH. - -Work as the Lappets of the Hood, page 4, commencing with the same color -as the Veste, and using the white wool for the Edge. - -Make the Scallop Trimming with the white wool, and for the Joining use -the same color as the Veste. - - -THE BORDER. - -For the Outside, commence with the white wool at the last stitch of -the left side of the Veste, so as to work on the selvedge formed by -the end of the rows, putting the needle sufficiently deep in the work -to correspond with the edge row of the Sash: work 3 plain crochet -stitches; * then 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 -chain, and 1 treble again; these 3 treble stitches are all to be worked -in the same stitch of the Veste, then work 7 plain; and repeat again -from *, continuing the same all round to the opposite end at the right -side of the Veste. As the 3 treble stitches should come at the centre -of the back, it will be necessary to increase in rounding the point. - -Make sufficient of the Scallop Trimming to go along this row, and join -it the same as the Sash. For the inner Border, commence at the last -stitch of the right side of the Veste, and work as the outer border. -The last row of each of the sides is then to be sewn to the back under -the Border, and the Sash ends attached on the wrong side. The Veste -should be fastened with buttons down the front. - - - - -KNITTED MUFFATEE. - -FOR A GENTLEMAN. - - - _Materials—1 ounce of White and 6 skeins of colored Single - Berlin Wool; pair of Walker’s knitting pins No. 12 Bell gauge._ - See page 13. - -Commence with the Colored wool, and cast on 48 stitches. - -1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, then (pearl 2 stitches and knit 2 alternately -to the end). - -Knit 5 rows more the same. - -Join on the white, and knit 6 rows. Then 3 rows of the colored. - -For the Centre, knit 36 rows of white—then 3 rows of coloured—6 rows of -white, and 6 rows of coloured. - -For the Lining, knit 60 rows of white. Cast off. Sew the sides -together, then double the cuff and sew the first and last rows together. - - - - -ROUND SHETLAND VEIL. - -KNITTING. - - - _Materials—One ounce of Shetland Wool and a pair of Knitting - Pins No. 14 Bell gauge._ - -THE CENTRE.—Cast on 49 stitches loosely with two pins. - -1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3 plain, make 1, knit 3 -all together. Repeat from * to the last 5 stitches, then make 1, knit -3, make 1, knit 2 plain. - -2nd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, * make 1, 2 together, knit 1, 2 -together, make 1, knit 1; repeat from *, and at the end knit 2 plain -instead of 1. - -3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 plain; * make 1, 2 together, make 1, 3 together, -make 1, knit 1. Repeat from * to within 5 stitches of the end, then -make 1, knit only 2 together, make 1 and knit 3 plain. - -4th row—Make 1, 2 together; * make 1, knit 1, make 1, 2 together, knit -1, 2 together. Repeat from * to the last 3 stitches, then make 1, knit -1, make 1, knit 2 plain. - -The work will now be increased 6 stitches. Commence again at the 1st -row and repeat these four rows until it is the required size; then knit -three rows plain and cast off. - -Make sufficient of the Diamond Border to edge it. - - -DIAMOND EDGING. - -Commence by casting on 12 stitches. - -1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit -the rest plain. The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows are -all worked as the 1st row, and are therefore not given. - -2nd row—Make 1, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 4, make 1, 2 together, -knit 1. - -4th row—Make 1, knit 5, make 1, 2 together, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, -knit 1. - -6th row—Make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, 2 -together, make 1, 2 together, knit 2, make 1, 2 together, knit 1. - -8th row—Make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 3 (make 1, 2 together -and knit 1, three times). - -10th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, 3 together, make 1 -knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 1. - -12th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, (2 together twice), make 1, -knit 4, make 1, 2 together, knit 1. - -[Illustration] - -14th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, then 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make -1, 2 together, knit 1. - -16th row—Make 1, 3 together, make 1, knit 6, make 1, 2 together, knit -1. Commence again at the 1st row. When sufficient is made it is to be -sewn to the Veil. - - - - -THE “EMPIRE” PETTICOAT. - -TRICOT ECOSSAIS.—SEE FRONTISPIECE. - - - _Materials—1lb. of Scarlet or Mauve 4-ply Fleecy; also 2 ounces - of Black and 1 ounce of White Wool. Walker’s Tricot Needle No. - 5 Bell gauge._ - - -FIRST STRIPE. - -Commence with the Scarlet Wool, and make a chain of 33 stitches. - -Work 2 rows of Tricot Ecossais as described at page 28, then join on -the Black Wool to finish the last stitch. - -3rd row—Black—Raise the 1st loop, then increase a loop, raise 13 loops; -then decrease by taking 3 loops on the needle and working as one -stitch. Raise 13 loops, increase again, and raise the two last loops. -Work back. All the rows are worked in this manner, that is, increasing -at the beginning and end, and decreasing in the centre. - -4th row—Work as the last row. - -Then with the White Wool work a row as the last. - -Black 2 rows. - -Scarlet 10 rows. - -18th row—Raise the 1st loop and increase as before. Raise 11 loops, -then decrease by taking 2 loops together; decrease again, taking 3 -loops together as usual; then decrease a third time, taking 2 together. -Raise 11 loops. Increase and raise 2 loops. There will now be only 31 -loops. Work back. - -Work 10 rows more as the 3rd row, but raising 12 loops instead of 13 on -each side of the centre decreased stitches. - -29th row—Work as the 18th row, but raising 10 loops instead of 11 loops -on each side the decreased stitches. - -Continue working 10 rows as the 3rd row, and then a row decreasing 3 -times in the same manner as the 18th row, until the work is reduced to -23 stitches, when it will be about 30 inches in length. - -As the number of stitches decreases each time the 18th row is worked, a -less number of stitches must be raised on each side of the centre. - -To finish the Stripe work 3 rows, decreasing in the centre and leaving -2 stitches unworked at each side; then work back to the right side, and -end with a row of single crochet. - -For an ordinary sized Petticoat 10 stripes will be required. The last -stripes should not be joined to the top. - -THE EDGE—With the Black Wool commence at the top of the left side of a -Stripe, and work down the selvedge a row of plain Crochet, putting the -needle into the open spaces formed by the increased stitches. This row -should be worked loosely. Continue this row across the foundation, and -up the right side of the Stripe. Work the other Stripes the same. - -THE JOINING ROW—With the White Wool commence at the black stitch even -with the white row of the stripe; work a single stitch on the stripe. -Take a second stripe, put the needle into the corresponding stitch -of it, work another single stitch. Continue working a single stitch -alternately on each stripe, until they are joined; the needle should be -put in both edges of the black row. The first four rows of the stripes -are to be sewn together with Scarlet and Black Wool. - -THE BORDER—With the White Wool commence at the black row of the -foundation, and work a row of 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain; putting the -needle in the same scarlet stitches as the black row, so as to cover -the alternate stitches of it. Repeat all round. - -With the Scarlet Wool work 3 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain in each chain -stitch of the white row. - - - - -TRICOT ECOSSAIS. - -A CHAIN ROW is always made for the foundation of the work, the same as -in Crochet, and after the number of chain stitches are made, as given -in each direction, the last loop is to be kept on the needle. - -[Illustration: SECTION.] - -1st row—still keeping the loop on the needle—miss the 1st chain stitch, -put the needle into the next chain stitch, take up the wool on the -needle and draw it through in a loop; * keep the two loops on the -needle, put the needle into the next chain stitch and repeat from * to -the end of the chain. This is termed “raising” loops or stitches, and -there should be as many loops on the needle as the foundation chain. - -To “Work back”—Take up the wool on the needle and bring it through the -last loop on it, * then take up the wool again and bring it through the -two next loops, as shown at the left side of the Section. Repeat from * -to the end. - -In raising the loops for the 2nd row the needle is to be put into the -upright loops of the previous row, as shown in the two first loops at -the right side of the section. - -To “Increase”—The third loop on the needle is an increased stitch, -which is made by putting the needle between two upright loops and -bringing the wool through as usual. - -In counting the loops always reckon the number on the needle, including -the one at the edge. - - * * * * * - - To insure correctness in the size of the Needles used in Mdlle. - Riego’s publications, a drawing of the Gauge by which they - are numbered, is now given. All Knitting Needles are measured - in the circle close to the numbers. Tricot Needles the same, - gauging by the stem. - -[Illustration: UNCOTOPIC H. WALKER’S PATENT.] - - - - -H. WALKER, - - _Manufacturer to the Queen of Pins, Fish Hooks, Hooks & Eyes, - Hair Pins, Thimbles, &c._ - -WAREHOUSE—GRESHAM STREET, LONDON, E.C. MANUFACTORY—ALCESTER. - - -[Illustration: BELL GAUGE] - -H. WALKER’S NEEDLES have long enjoyed great popularity with those who -value really good Needles. They have been greatly altered by Patented -Improvements of a most important character. - -H. WALKER’S PATENT PENELOPE CROCHETS have had so many imitations, it is -necessary to repeat the request that all who wish for the true Needle -will see that the word “Penelope” is on the handle. - -The new Patent Uncotopic Handles to the Penelope Needles have the word -“Uncotopic” on each, and persons who would avoid disappointment will -please to observe these trade marks. The Uncotopic Handle keeps the -Needle at all times in the true position for work, and is invaluable -alike to a beginner, or to an accomplished worker. - -[Illustration: H. Walker Needles - -Fig. 1. - -Fig. 2.] - -The following is from “_The Engineer_,” of May 4, 1859:—“Difficult as -it may appear to entirely change the structure of so small an article, -the figures above show what may be done even with the eye of a Needle. - -“Fig. 1. A, is a ridge or slightly raised part before the eye; B, the -eye; C, a groove beyond the eye into which the thread falls. - -“Fig. 2 is a side view of the part A, B, C, showing the thread recessed -as in sewing, when the usual pressure of the thimble drives the Needle -with its thread at once through the cloth, affording relief of no -ordinary character to the tailor or seampstress, and saving much of -their time. We have submitted these Needles to a good judge of such -articles, who has declared them superior to all others, not only as -above stated, but particularly also with relation to facility of -threading.” - - - - -[Illustration: - - CHRISTMAS - PRESENTS - AND - NEW YEAR’S GIFTS - FOR ALL WHO COURT - THE GAY AND FESTIVE - SCENES.] - - -ROWLANDS’ MACASSAR OIL, - -IS A DELIGHTFULLY FRAGRANT AND TRANSPARENT PREPARATION FOR THE HAIR. - -And, as an invigorator and beautifier, beyond all precedent. It bestows -a permanent gloss, with a silky softness, and a strong tendency to -curl, and is the only known specific capable of effectually sustaining -the Hair in decorative charm during the exercise of dancing, or the -relaxing effects of crowded rooms. Prices 3s. 6d.; 7s. 10s. 6d.; equal -to four small, and double that size, 21s. per bottle. - - -ROWLANDS’ KALYDOR, - -FOR THE SKIN AND COMPLEXION. - -A balmy, odoriferous, creamy Liquid, as equally celebrated for safety -in application as - -UNEQUALLED FOR ITS RARE AND INESTIMABLE QUALITIES. - -The radiant bloom it imparts to the cheek, the softness and delicacy -which it induces of the hands and arms, its capability of soothing -irritation, and removing cutaneous defects, discolourations, and all -unsightly appearances render it - -INDISPENSABLE TO EVERY TOILET. - -Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 8d. per bottle. - - -ROWLANDS’ ODONTO, - -OR PEARL DENTIFRICE. - -A White Powder, compounded of the choicest and most _recherché_ -ingredients of the Oriental Herbal, and of inestimable value in - -PRESERVING AND IMPARTING - -A PEARL-LIKE WHITENESS TO THE TEETH; - -STRENGTHENING THE GUMS; AND IN GIVING A PLEASING FRAGRANCE TO THE -BREATH. - -Price 2s. 9d. per box. - - -Sold at 20, Hatton Garden, London, and by Chemists and Perfumers. - -☞ _Ask for_ “ROWLANDS’” _articles_. - - - - -WALTER EVANS & CO., - -BOAR’S-HEAD COTTON MANUFACTORY, - -DERBY, - -MANUFACTURE THE FOLLOWING:— - - -SUPERIOR SIX CORD CROCHET COTTON, on Spools and in Skeins, for Sewing, - Knitting, and Crochet Work. -SUPERIOR SIX CORD SEWINGS, on Spools, soft finish, for Sewing Machines, &c. -TATTING COTTON, on Spools. -PATENT GLACE THREAD, in White, Black, and Colors, on Spools and Cards. -TWO AND THREE CORD SEWINGS, on Spools, soft finish. -SEWINGS in Balls. -EMBROIDERING, KNITTING, MENDING, COTTON CORDS, AND SMALL CORDS. - -[Illustration: 1862. - -London Exhibition Prize Medal, Awarded “for very Strong & most superior -Thread.”] - -[Illustration: 1867. - -Paris Universal Exhibition Gold Medal.] - - - - -NOTICE. - - -_Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere begs most gratefully to thank her -correspondents for the kind letters she has received during sorrow and -illness, and trusts that any omissions on her part will be excused now -the cause is known._ - -_She has also to inform them that for the future all her registered and -copyright designs will be signed with her surname in full, she having -hitherto used only the first as more convenient for business; but as -she has reason to believe that there has been a recent infringement and -use of her name, it has become advisable for her to vary her signature, -otherwise she cannot so readily detect fraud._ - -_Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere must caution ladies against purchasing -any of her designs without the whole signature, as she is informed by -law it is against the purchaser only she must proceed in case it should -be necessary to assert her rights._ - -Mlle. Riego’s ONLY Establishment is at 2, Old Quebec Street, London. - - s. d. - -The Complete Tatting Book 1 0 -The Instruction Tatting Book 1 0 -The Exhibition Tatting Book 1 0 -The Royal Tatting Book 1 0 -The Lace Tatting Book 1 0 -The Etoile Tatting Book 1 0 -The Pearl Tatting Book 1 0 -The 6th Series Crochet Book 1 0 -The Simple Tatting Book 0 6 -The 18th Series Crochet Book 1 0 -The 10th and 17th Series 1 6 -The Useful Knitting Book 1 0 -Winter Book for 1862 1 0 -“Melange de Laine” 1 0 -“Tricot Ecossais” 1 0 -The Andalusian Knitting and Netting 1 0 -Coloured Antimacassars 1 0 -Tatting Edgings 0 6 -La Mode Winter 0 6 -The Book of Siberian Wool 0 6 -The Child’s Winter Knitting 0 6 - -Entered at Stationers’ Hall.] - - [The Author reserves the right of Translation. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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