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diff --git a/old/66173-0.txt b/old/66173-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c39f669..0000000 --- a/old/66173-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6632 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Leaves from the Journal of our Life in the -Highlands, from 1848 to 1861, by Victoria, Queen of Great Britain - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Leaves from the Journal of our Life in the Highlands, from 1848 - to 1861 - -Author: Victoria, Queen of Great Britain - -Editor: Arthur Helps - -Release Date: August 29, 2021 [eBook #66173] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Tim Lindell, Fiona Holmes, and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/Canadian Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEAVES FROM THE JOURNAL OF OUR -LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, FROM 1848 TO 1861 *** - - -Transcriber’s Notes. - -Hyphenation has been standardised. - -Footnotes were moved to the ends of the text they pertain to - and numbered in one continuous sequence. - -The words ‘gillie’ and ‘ghillie’ have been left unchanged. - Both spellings appear to be acceptable. - -Other changes made are noted at the end of the book. - - - - -[Illustration: BALMORAL. - -_From a Photograph by Whitlock, Birmingham._] - - - - - LEAVES - - FROM THE JOURNAL - - OF - - OUR LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, - - FROM 1848 TO 1861. - - - TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED AND ADDED EXTRACTS FROM THE SAME - JOURNAL GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF - - EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND, - AND TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, - AND - YACHTING EXCURSIONS. - - - _EDITED BY ARTHUR HELPS._ - - - LONDON: - SMITH, ELDER AND CO. - 1868. - - - [THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.] - - - - - TO - - THE DEAR MEMORY OF HIM - - WHO MADE THE LIFE OF THE WRITER BRIGHT AND HAPPY, - - THESE SIMPLE RECORDS - - ARE LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY INSCRIBED. - - - - -EDITOR’S PREFACE. - - -The circumstances which have led to the publication of this Volume are, -briefly, these. - -During one of the Editor’s official visits to Balmoral, her Majesty -very kindly allowed him to see several extracts from her journal, -relating to excursions in the Highlands of Scotland. He was much -interested by them; and expressed the interest which he felt. It then -occurred to her Majesty that these extracts, referring, as they did, -to some of the happiest hours of her life, might be made into a book, -to be printed privately, for presentation to members of the Royal -Family and her Majesty’s intimate friends; especially to those who had -accompanied and attended her in these tours. - -It was then suggested to her Majesty by some persons, among them a near -and dear relative of the Queen, and afterwards by the Editor, that this -work, if made known to others, would be very interesting to them as -well as to the Royal Family and to her Majesty’s intimate friends. The -Queen, however, said, that she had no skill whatever in authorship; -that these were, for the most part, mere homely accounts of excursions -near home; and that she felt extremely reluctant to publish anything -written by herself. - -To this the Editor respectfully replied, that, if printed at all, -however limited the impression, and however careful the selection of -persons to whom copies might be given, some portions of the volume, or -quite as probably incorrect representations of its contents, might find -their way into the public journals. It would therefore, he thought, be -better at once to place the volume within the reach of her Majesty’s -subjects, who would, no doubt, derive from it pleasure similar to that -which it had afforded to the Editor himself. Moreover, it would be very -gratifying to her subjects, who had always shown a sincere and ready -sympathy with the personal joys and sorrows of their Sovereign,--to -be allowed to know how her rare moments of leisure were passed in -her Highland home, when every joy was heightened, and every care and -sorrow diminished, by the loving companionship of the Prince Consort. -With his memory the scenes to which this volume refers would always be -associated. - -Upon these considerations her Majesty eventually consented to its -publication. - -While the book was being printed, the Editor suggested that it would -gain in interest if other extracts were added to it, describing her -Majesty’s progresses in England, Ireland, and the Channel Islands. - -The Queen was pleased to assent; and the additions were accordingly -made. - - * * * * * - -It will easily be seen that this little work does not make any -pretension to be more than such a record of the impressions received by -the Royal Author in the course of these journeys, as might hereafter -serve to recall to her own mind the scenes and circumstances which -had been the source of so much pleasure. All references to political -questions, or to the affairs of Government, have, for obvious reasons, -been studiously omitted. The book is mainly confined to the natural -expressions of a mind rejoicing in the beauties of nature, and -throwing itself, with a delight rendered keener by the rarity of its -opportunities, into the enjoyment of a life removed, for the moment, -from the pressure of public cares. - - * * * * * - -It would not be becoming in the Editor to dwell largely upon the merits -of this work. He may, however, allude to the picturesque descriptions -of scenery in which the work abounds; to the simplicity of diction -throughout it; and to the perfect faithfulness of narration which -is one of its chief characteristics; for in every page the writer -describes what she thinks and feels, rather than what she might be -expected to think and feel. - -Moreover, he may point out the willingness to be pleased, upon which -so much of the enjoyment of any tour depends: and also the exceeding -kindliness of feeling--the gratitude even--with which the Royal -Tourists recognize any attention paid to them, or any manifestation -of the cordial attachment felt towards them, by any of her Majesty’s -subjects, from the highest to the humblest, whom they happen to meet -with in the course of their journeys. - - * * * * * - -The Editor thinks that he should not be doing justice to the Royal -Author’s book--not doing what, if it were any other person’s work which -was entrusted to his editing, he should do--if he were to forbear -giving utterance to the thoughts which occurred to him in reference to -the notes to the Volume. - -These notes, besides indicating that peculiar memory for persons, -and that recognition of personal attachment, which have been very -noticeable in our Sovereigns, illustrate, in a striking manner, the -Patriarchal feeling (if one may apply such a word as “patriarchal” to a -lady) which is so strong in the present occupant of the Throne. Perhaps -there is no person in these realms who takes a more deep and abiding -interest in the welfare of the household committed to his charge than -our gracious Queen does in hers, or who feels more keenly what are the -reciprocal duties of masters and servants. - -Nor does any one wish more ardently than her Majesty, that there should -be no abrupt severance of class from class, but rather a gradual -blending together of all classes,--caused by a full community of -interests, a constant interchange of good offices, and a kindly respect -felt and expressed by each class to all its brethren in the great -brotherhood that forms a nation. - -Those whose duty it has been to attend upon the Queen in matters of -business, must have noticed that her Majesty, as a person well versed -in the conduct of affairs, is wont to keep closely to the point at -issue, and to speak of nothing but what is directly connected with -the matter before her. But whenever there is an exception to this -rule, it arises from her Majesty’s anxious desire to make some inquiry -about the welfare of her subjects--to express her sympathy with this -man’s sorrow, or on that man’s bereavement--to ask what is the latest -intelligence about this disaster, or that suffering, and what can be -done to remedy or assuage it--thus showing, unconsciously, that she is, -indeed, the Mother of her People, taking the deepest interest in all -that concerns them, without respect of persons, from the highest to the -lowest. - - * * * * * - -The Editor thinks that one point of interest which will incidentally -be disclosed by this publication, is the aspect of the Court in these -our times. What would not the historian give to have similar materials -within his reach, when writing about the reigns of the great Queen -Elizabeth or the good Queen Anne? There is always something in the -present which has the appearance of being trivial and prosaic; but the -future historian will delight in having details before him furnished by -this book and by the _Life of the Prince Consort_[1], which will enable -him fully to describe the reign of Victoria, and justly to appreciate -the private life of a Sovereign whose public life will enter so largely -into the annals of the nineteenth century. - -[1] A work which has met with a very cordial reception from the -public, and which, from what the Editor has seen, will not by any means -diminish in interest as it proceeds to describe the full and busy life -of the Prince as a man. - -One more remark the Editor cannot refrain from making; namely, that -it is evident that her Majesty never takes for granted the services -and attentions which are rendered to her, and which we all know would -be rendered to her from dutiful respect and regard, but views them as -especial kindnesses shown to herself, and to which she makes no claim -whatever from her exalted position as a Sovereign. - -This latter trait, very characteristic of the Royal Author, gives, -throughout, an additional charm to the book, which, on that account -alone, and apart even from its many other merits, will, the Editor -doubts not, be gratefully and affectionately welcomed by the public. - - LONDON, - _January, 1868_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND. - - DATE PAGE - - First Visit to Scotland 29 Aug. 1842 1 - - Visit to Blair Athole 9 Sept. 1844 29 - - Tour round the West Coast of Scotland and - Visit to Ardverikie 11 Aug. 1847 43 - - -LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, 1848-1861. - - First Impressions of Balmoral 8 Sept. 1848 65 - - First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar 16 Sept. 1848 67 - - A “Drive” in the Balloch Buie 18 Sept. 1848 71 - - The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach 30 Aug. 1849 73 - - A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods 3 Sept. 1849 76 - - Visit to the Dhu Loch, &c. 11 Sept. 1849 78 - - Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd 6 Sept. 1850 81 - - The Gathering 12 Sept. 1850 83 - - Salmon Leistering 13 Sept. 1850 85 - - Loch Muich 16 Sept. 1850 87 - - Torch-light Ball at Corriemulzie 10 Sept. 1852 89 - - Account of the News of the Duke of - Wellington’s Death 16 Sept. 1852 91 - - Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, &c. 11 Oct. 1852 95 - - Laying the Foundation Stone of our New - House 28 Sept. 1853 99 - - The Kirk 29 Oct. 1854 102 - - Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral 7 Sept. 1855 103 - - Impressions of the New Castle 8 Sept. 1855 104 - - News of the Fall of Sevastopol 10 Sept. 1855 105 - - The Betrothal of the Princess Royal 29 Sept. 1855 107 - - The Kirk 14 Oct. 1855 108 - - Finding the Old Castle Gone 30 Aug. 1856 109 - - Gardens, &c. round the New Castle 31 Aug. 1856 110 - - Love for Balmoral 13 Oct. 1856 111 - - Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of - Dee 8 Sept. 1857 112 - - Visits to the Old Women 26 Sept. 1857 113 - - Visit to the Prince’s Encampment at Feithort 6 Oct. 1857 115 - - A Fall of Snow 18 Sept. 1858 117 - - Ascent of Morven 14 Sept. 1859 121 - - The Prince’s Return from Aberdeen 15 Sept. 1859 123 - - Fête to the Members of the British Association 22 Sept. 1859 124 - - Expedition to Inchrory 30 Sept. 1859 127 - - Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui 7 Oct. 1859 130 - - First Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie and - Grantown 4 Sept. 1860 134 - - Second Great Expedition:--To Invermark - and Fettercairn 20 Sept. 1861 144 - - Expedition to Loch Avon 28 Sept. 1861 153 - - Third Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie, - Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole 8 Oct. 1861 156 - - Last Expedition 16 Oct. 1861 167 - - -TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, AND YACHTING EXCURSIONS. - - First Visit to Ireland 2 Aug. 1849 175 - - Yachting Excursion 20 Aug. 1846 195 - - Second Yachting Excursion 2 Sept. 1846 203 - - Visit to the Lakes of Killarney 27 Aug. 1861 216 - - -_Directions to the Binder._ - - Balmoral FRONTISPIECE. - - Balmoral--The old Castle TO FACE PAGE 65 - - The Shiel of Alt-na-Giuthasach ” 73 - - Balmoral Castle from the North-West ” 111 - - Fording the Poll Tarf ” 164 - - Luncheon at Cairn Lochan ” 169 - - - - -_EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND._ - - - - -FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND. - - - _On Board the Royal George Yacht, - Monday, August 29, 1842._ - -At five o’clock in the morning we left _Windsor_ for the railroad, -the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget, General Wemyss, Colonel -Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton, -and Sir James Clark, who also accompany us, had already gone on to -_Woolwich_. - -We reached _London_ at a quarter to six, got into our carriages, and -arrived at _Woolwich_ before seven. Albert and I immediately stepped -into our barge. There was a large crowd to see us embark. The Duke -of Cambridge, Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord Bloomfield, and Sir -George Cockburn were present in full uniform. Sir George handed me into -the barge. It was raining very hard when we got on board, and therefore -we remained in our sitting-room. - -I annex a list of our squadron:— - - 1. The ship “Pique,” 36 guns. - - 2. The sloop “Daphne,” 18 guns--(both of which join us at the _Nore_). - - 3. The steam-vessel “Salamander” (with the carriages on board). - - 4. The steam-vessel “Rhadamanthus” (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton on - board). - - 5. The steam-vessel “Monkey” Tender, which has towed us till nine - o’clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board). - - 6. The steam-vessel “Shearwater,” which is now towing us (Sir James - Clark on board). - - 7. The steam-vessel “Black Eagle” (which has the ladies on board, and - which tows us in front of the “Shearwater”). - - 8. The steam-vessel “Lightning” (with the Jäger Benda, and our two - dogs, “Eôs” and “Cairnach,” on board) in front, which has gone to take - our barge on board from the “Pique.” - - 9. The steam-vessel “Fearless” (for survey). - -This composes our squadron, besides which the Trinity-House steamer -goes with us, and, also, a packet. Innumerable little pleasure -steamboats have been following us covered with people. - - - _Tuesday, August 30._ - -We heard, to our great distress, that we had only gone 58 miles since -eight o’clock last night. How annoying and provoking this is! We -remained on deck all day lying on sofas; the sea was very rough towards -evening, and I was very ill. We reached _Flamborough Head_ on the -Yorkshire coast by half-past five. - - - _Wednesday, August 31._ - -At five o’clock in the morning we heard, to our great vexation, that we -had only been going three knots an hour in the night, and were 50 miles -from _St. Abb’s Head_. - -We passed _Coquet Island_ and _Bamborough Castle_ on the Northumberland -coast, which I was unfortunately unable to see; but from my cabin -I saw _Ferne Island_, with Grace Darling’s lighthouse on it; also -_Rocky Islands_ and _Holy Island_. At half-past five I went on deck, -and immediately lay down. We then came in sight of the Scotch coast, -which is very beautiful, so dark, rocky, bold, and wild, totally unlike -our coast. We passed _St. Abb’s Head_ at half-past six. Numbers of -fishing-boats (in one of which was a piper playing) and steamers full -of people came out to meet us, and on board of one large steamer they -danced a reel to a band. It was a beautiful evening, calm, with a fine -sunset, and the air so pure. - -One cannot help noticing how much longer the days are here than they -were in _England_. It was not really dark till past eight o’clock, -and on Monday and Tuesday evening at _Windsor_ it was nearly dark by -half-past seven, quite so before eight. The men begged leave to dance, -which they did to the sound of a violin played by a little sailor-boy; -they also sang. - -We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine, and saw many -bonfires on the Scotch coast--at _Dunbar_--Lord Haddington’s place, -_Tyninghame_, and at other points on the coast. We let off four -rockets, and burned two blue lights. It is surprising to see the -sailors climb on the bowsprit and up to the top of the mast-head--this -too at all times of the day and night. The man who carried the lantern -to the main-top ran up with it in his mouth to the top. They are so -handy and so well conducted. - -We felt most thankful and happy that we were near our journey’s end. - - - _Thursday, September 1._ - -At a quarter to one o’clock, we heard the anchor let down--a welcome -sound. At seven we went on deck, where we breakfasted. Close on one -side were _Leith_ and the high hills towering over _Edinburgh_, which -was in fog; and on the other side was to be seen the _Isle of May_ -(where it is said Macduff held out against Macbeth), the _Bass Rock_ -being behind us. At ten minutes past eight we arrived at _Granton -Pier_, where we were met by the Duke of Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel and -others. They came on board to see us, and Sir Robert told us that the -people were all in the highest good-humour, though naturally a little -disappointed at having waited for us yesterday. We then stepped over a -gangway on to the pier, the people cheering, and the Duke saying that -he begged to be allowed to welcome us. Our ladies and gentlemen had -landed before us, safe and well, and we two got into a barouche, the -ladies and gentlemen following. The Duke, the equerries, and Mr. Anson -rode. - -There were, however, not nearly so many people in _Edinburgh_, though -the crowd and crush were such that one was really continually in fear -of accidents. More regularity and order would have been preserved had -there not been some mistake on the part of the Provost about giving -due notice of our approach. The impression _Edinburgh_ has made upon -us is very great; it is quite beautiful, totally unlike anything else -I have seen; and what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says -it is unlike anything _he_ ever saw; it is so regular, everything built -of massive stone, there is not a brick to be seen anywhere. The _High -Street_, which is pretty steep, is very fine. Then the Castle, situated -on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On the -other side the _Calton Hill_, with the _National Monument_, a building -in the Grecian style; _Nelson’s Monument_; _Burns’ Monument_; the -_Gaol_; the _National School_, &c.; all magnificent buildings, and -with _Arthur’s Seat_ in the background, over-topping the whole, form -altogether a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and -the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body Guard[2] met -us and walked with us the whole way through the town. It is composed -entirely of noblemen and gentlemen, and they all walked close by the -carriage; but were dreadfully pushed about. Amongst them were the Duke -of Roxburgh and Lord Elcho on my side; and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s -side. Lord Elcho[3] (whom I did not know at the time) pointed out the -various monuments and places to me as we came along. When we were out -of the town, we went faster. Every cottage is built of stone, and so -are all the walls that are used as fences. - -[2] The Duke of Buccleuch told me the other day, that the Archers Guard -was established by James I., and was composed of men who were mounted -and armed from head to foot, and who were bound always to be near the -Sovereign’s person. At Flodden Field, King James IV.’s body, it is -said, was found covered and surrounded by the bodies of the Archers -Guard. - -[3] Now Earl of Wemyss. - -The country and people have quite a different character from _England_ -and the English. The old women wear close caps, and all the children -and girls are bare-footed. I saw several handsome girls and children -with long hair; indeed all the poor girls from sixteen and seventeen -down to two or three years old, have loose flowing hair; a great deal -of it red. - -As we came along we saw _Craigmillar Castle_, a ruin, where Mary, Queen -of Scots, used to live. We reached _Dalkeith_ at eleven; a large house, -constructed of reddish stone, the greater part built by the Duchess -of Monmouth, and the park is very fine and large. The house has three -fronts, with the entrance on the left as you drive up. The - -Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us, and we were shown up a -very handsome staircase to our rooms, which are very comfortable. We -both felt dreadfully tired and giddy. - -We drove out together. The park is very extensive, with a beautiful -view of _Arthur’s Seat_ and the _Pentland Hills_; and there is a pretty -drive overhanging a deep valley. At eight we dined--a large party. -Everybody was very kind and civil, and full of inquiries as to our -voyage. - - - _Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2._ - -At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I think very good, -and also some of the “Finnan haddies.” We then walked out. The -pleasure-grounds seem very extensive and beautiful, wild and hilly. We -walked down along the stream (the river _Esk_), up a steep bank to a -little cottage, and came home by the upper part of the walk. At four -o’clock we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duchess of -Norfolk--the Duke and equerries riding--the others in another carriage. -We drove through _Dalkeith_, which was full of people, all running and -cheering. - -Albert says that many of the people look like Germans. The old women -with that kind of cap which they call a “mutch,” and the young girls -and children with flowing hair, and many of them pretty, are very -picturesque; you hardly see any women with bonnets. - -Such a thick “Scotch mist” came on that we were obliged to drive home -through the village of _Lasswade_, and through Lord Melville’s Park, -which is very fine. - - - _Saturday, September 3._ - -At ten o’clock we set off--we two in the barouche--all the others -following, for _Edinburgh_. We drove in under _Arthur’s Seat_, where -the crowd began to be very great, and here the Guard of Royal Archers -met us; Lord Elcho walking near me, and the Duke of Roxburgh and Sir -J. Hope on Albert’s side. We passed by _Holyrood Chapel_, which is -very old and full of interest, and _Holyrood Palace_, a royal-looking -old place. The procession moved through the _Old Town_ up the _High -Street_, which is a most extraordinary street from the immense height -of the houses, most of them being eleven stories high, and different -families living in each story. Every window was crammed full of people. -They showed us _Knox’s House_, a curious old building, as is also the -_Regent Murray’s House_, which is in perfect preservation. In the _Old -Town_ the _High Church_, and _St. Paul’s_ in the _New Town_, are very -fine buildings. At the barrier, the Provost presented us with the keys. - -The girls of the _Orphan Asylum_, and the Trades in old costumes, were -on a platform. Further on was the _New Church_, to which--strange to -say, as the church is nearly finished--they were going to lay the -foundation stone. We at length reached the Castle, to the top of which -we walked. - -The view from both batteries is splendid, like a panorama in extent. We -saw from them _Heriot’s Hospital_, a beautiful old building, founded, -in the time of James, by a goldsmith and jeweller, whom Sir Walter -Scott has made famous in his _Fortunes of Nigel_. After this, we got -again into the carriages and proceeded in the same way as before, the -pressure of the crowd being really quite alarming; and both I and -Albert were quite terrified for the Archers Guard, who had very hard -work of it; but were of the greatest use. They all carry a bow in one -hand, and have their arrows stuck through their belts. - -Unfortunately, as soon as we were out of _Edinburgh_, it began to -rain, and continued raining the whole afternoon without interruption. -We reached _Dalmeny_, Lord Roseberry’s, at two o’clock. The park is -beautiful, with the trees growing down to the sea. It commands a very -fine view of the _Forth_, the _Isle of May_, the _Bass Rock_, and -of _Edinburgh_; but the mist rendered it almost impossible to see -anything. The grounds are very extensive, being hill and dale and -wood. The house is quite modern: Lord Roseberry built it, and it is -very pretty and comfortable. We lunched there. The Roseberrys were -all civility and attention. We left them about half-past three, and -proceeded home through _Leith_. - -The view of _Edinburgh_ from the road before you enter _Leith_ is quite -enchanting; it is, as Albert said, “fairy-like,” and what you would -only imagine as a thing to dream of, or to see in a picture. There -was that beautiful large town, all of stone (no mingled colours of -brick to mar it), with the bold Castle on one side, and the _Calton -Hill_ on the other, with those high sharp hills of _Arthur’s Seat_ and -_Salisbury Crags_ towering above all, and making the finest, boldest -background imaginable. Albert said he felt sure the _Acropolis_ could -not be finer; and I hear they sometimes call _Edinburgh_ “the modern -_Athens_.” The Archers Guard met us again at _Leith_, which is not a -pretty town. - -The people were most enthusiastic, and the crowd very great. The -Porters all mounted, with curious Scotch caps, and their horses -decorated with flowers, had a very singular effect; but the fishwomen -are the most striking-looking people, and are generally young and -pretty women--very clean and very Dutch-looking, with their white caps -and bright-coloured petticoats. They never marry out of their class. - -At six we returned well tired. - - - _Sunday, September 4._ - -We walked to see the new garden which is being made, and saw Mackintosh -there, who was formerly gardener at _Claremont_. The view of _Dalkeith_ -(the village, or rather town) from thence is extremely picturesque, -and Albert says very German-looking. We returned over a rough sort of -bridge, made only of planks, which crosses the _Esk_, and which, with -the wooded banks on each side, is excessively pretty. Received from -Lady Lyttelton good accounts of our little children. At twelve o’clock -there were prayers in the house, read by Mr. Ramsay, who also preached. - -At half-past four the Duchess drove me out in her own phaeton, with -a very pretty pair of chestnut ponies, Albert riding with the Duke -and Colonel Bouverie. We drove through parts of the park, through an -old wood, and along the banks of the _South Esk_ and the _North Esk_, -which meet at a point from which there is such a beautiful view of the -_Pentland Hills_. Then we drove, by a private road, to _Newbattle_, -Lord Lothian’s place. The park is very fine, and the house seems large; -we got out to look at a most magnificent beech-tree. The _South Esk_ -runs close before the house, by a richly wooded bank. - -From thence we went to _Dalhousie_, Lord Dalhousie’s. The house is a -real old Scotch castle, of reddish stone. We got out for a moment, and -the Dalhousies showed us the drawing-room. From the window you see a -beautiful wooded valley, and a peep of the distant hills. - -Lord Dalhousie said there had been no British sovereign there since -Henry IV. We drove home by the same way that we came. The evening -was--as the whole day had been--clear, bright, and frosty, and the -_Moorfoot Hills_ (another range) looked beautiful as we were returning. -It was past seven when we got home. - - - _Monday, September 5._ - -I held a Drawing-room at _Dalkeith_ to-day, in the gallery. The -Ministers and Scotch Officers of State were in the room, and the Royal -Archers were in attendance in the room and outside of it, like the -Gentlemen at Arms in _London_. Before the Drawing-room I received three -addresses--from the Lord Provost and Magistrates, from the Scotch -Church, and from the Universities of _St. Andrews_, _Glasgow_, and -_Edinburgh_--to which I read answers. Albert received his just after I -did mine, and read his answers beautifully. - - - _Tuesday, September 6._ - -At nine o’clock we left _Dalkeith_ as we came. It was a bright, clear, -cold, frosty morning. As we drove along we saw the _Pentlands_, which -looked beautiful, as did also _Arthur’s Seat_, which we passed quite -close by. The _Salisbury Crags_, too, are very high, bold, and sharp. -Before this we saw _Craigmillar_. We passed through a back part of the -town (which is most solidly built), close by _Heriot’s Hospital_, and -had a very fine view of the Castle. - -I forgot to say that, when we visited the Castle, we saw the Regalia, -which are very old and curious (they were lost for one hundred years); -also the room in which James VI. of Scotland and the First of England -was born--such a very, very small room, with an old prayer written on -the wall. We had a beautiful view of _Edinburgh_ and the _Forth_. At -_Craigleith_ (only a half-way house, nine miles) we changed horses. -The Duke rode with us all the way as Lord-Lieutenant of the county, -until we arrived at _Dalmeny_, where Lord Hopetoun met us and rode with -us. At eleven we reached the _South Queensferry_, where we got out of -our carriage and embarked in a little steamer; the ladies and gentlemen -and our carriages going in another. We went a little way up the -_Forth_, to see _Hopetoun House_, Lord Hopetoun’s, which is beautifully -situated between _Hopetoun_ and _Dalmeny_. We also saw _Dundas Castle_, -belonging to Dundas of Dundas, and further on, beyond _Hopetoun_, -_Blackness Castle_, famous in history. On the opposite side you see -a square tower, close to the water, called _Rosyth_, where Oliver -Cromwell’s mother was said to have been born, and in the distance -_Dunfermline_, where Robert Bruce is buried. We passed close by a -very pretty island in the _Forth_, with an old castle on it, called -_Inchgarvie_; and we could see the Forth winding beautifully, and had -a distant glimpse of _Edinburgh_ and its fine Castle. We landed safely -on the other side, at _North Queensferry_, and got into our carriages. -Captain Wemyss, elder brother to General Wemyss, rode with us all the -way beyond _Cowdenbeath_ (eight miles). The first village we passed -through on leaving the _Queensferry_, was _Inverkeithing_. We passed by -Sir P. Durham’s property. - -We changed horses at _Cowdenbeath_. At a quarter-past one we entered -_Kinross-shire_. Soon after, the country grew prettier, and the hills -appeared again, partly wooded. We passed _Loch Leven_, and saw the -castle on the lake from which poor Queen Mary escaped. There the -country is rather flat, and the hills are only on one side. We changed -horses next at _Kinross_. Soon after this, the mountains, which are -rather barren, began to appear. Then we passed the valley of _Glen -Farg_; the hills are very high on each side, and completely wooded down -to the bottom of the valley, where a small stream runs on one side of -the road--it is really lovely. - -On leaving this valley you come upon a beautiful view of _Strathearn_ -and _Moncrieffe Hill_. We were then in _Perthshire_. We changed horses -next at the _Bridge of Earn_ (12 miles). At half-past three we reached -_Dupplin_, Lord Kinnoull’s. All the time the views of the hills, and -dales, and streams were lovely. The last part of the road very bad -travelling, up and down hill. _Dupplin_ is a very fine modern house, -with a very pretty view of the hills on one side, and a small waterfall -close in front of the house. A battalion of the 42nd Highlanders was -drawn up before the house, and the men looked very handsome in their -kilts. We each received an address from the nobility and gentry of the -county, read by Lord Kinnoull; and from the Provost and Magistrates -of _Perth_. We then lunched. The Willoughbys, Kinnairds, Ruthvens, -and Lord Mansfield, and one of his sisters, with others, were there. -After luncheon, we walked a little way in the grounds, and then at -five o’clock we set off again. We very soon came upon _Perth_, the -situation of which is quite lovely; it is on the _Tay_, with wooded -hills skirting it entirely on one side, and hills are seen again in the -distance, the river winding beautifully. - -Albert was charmed, and said it put him in mind of the situation of -_Basle_. The town itself (which is very pretty) was immensely crowded, -and the people very enthusiastic; triumphal arches had been erected -in various places. The Provost presented me with the keys, and Albert -with the freedom of the city. Two miles beyond is _Scone_ (Lord -Mansfield’s), a fine-looking house of reddish stone. - -Lord Mansfield and the Dowager Lady Mansfield received us at the door, -and took us to our rooms, which were very nice. - - - _Wednesday, September 7._ - -We walked out, and saw the mound on which the ancient Scotch kings were -always crowned; also the old arch with James VI.’s arms, and the old -cross, which is very interesting. - -Before our windows stands a sycamore-tree planted by James VI. A -curious old book was brought to us from _Perth_, in which the last -signatures are those of James I. (of England) and of Charles I., and -we were asked to write our names in it, and we did so. Lord Mansfield -told me yesterday that there were some people in the town who wore the -identical dresses that had been worn in Charles I.’s time. At eleven -o’clock we set off as before. We drove through part of _Perth_, and -had a very fine view of _Scone_. A few miles on, we passed the field -of battle of _Luncarty_, where tradition says the Danes were beaten by -Lord Erroll’s ancestor. We also passed Lord Lynedoch’s property. We -then changed horses at the “New Inn” at _Auchtergaven_. The _Grampians_ -came now distinctly into view; they are indeed a grand range of -mountains. - -To the left we saw _Tullybelton_, where it is said the Druids used to -sacrifice to Bel; there are a few trees on the top of the mountain. - -To the left; but more immediately before us, we saw _Birnam_, where -once stood _Birnam Wood_, so renowned in _Macbeth_. We passed a pretty -shooting place of Sir W. Stewart’s, called _Rohallion_, nearly at the -foot of _Birnam_. To the right we saw the _Stormont_ and _Strathtay_. -Albert said, as we came along between the mountains, that to the -right, where they were wooded, it was very like _Thüringen_, and on the -left more like _Switzerland_. _Murthly_, to the right, which belongs -to Sir W. Stewart, is in a very fine situation, with the _Tay_ winding -under the hill. This lovely scenery continues all along to _Dunkeld_. -Lord Mansfield rode with us the whole way. - -Just outside _Dunkeld_, before a triumphal arch, Lord Glenlyon’s -Highlanders, with halberds, met us, and formed our guard--a piper -playing before us. _Dunkeld_ is beautifully situated in a narrow -valley, on the banks of the _Tay_. We drove in to where the Highlanders -were all drawn up, in the midst of their encampments, and where a tent -was prepared for us to lunch in. Poor Lord Glenlyon[4] received us; but -he had suddenly become totally blind, which is dreadful for him. He was -led about by his wife; it was very melancholy. His blindness was caused -by over-fatigue. The Dowager Lady Glenlyon, the Mansfields, Kinnoulls, -Buccleuchs, and many others were there. We walked down the ranks of the -Highlanders, and then partook of luncheon, the piper played, and one of -the Highlanders[5] danced the “sword dance.” (Two swords crossed are -laid upon the ground, and the dancer has to dance across them without -touching them.) Some of the others danced a reel. - -[4] The late Duke of Athole. - -[5] Charles Christie, now steward to the present Dowager Duchess of -Athole. - -At a quarter to four we left _Dunkeld_ as we came, the Highland Guard -marching with us till we reached the outside of the town. The drive -was quite beautiful all the way to _Taymouth_.[6] The two highest -hills of the range on each side are (to the right, as you go on after -leaving _Dunkeld_) _Craig-y-Barns_ and (to the left, immediately above -_Dunkeld_) _Craigvinean_. The _Tay_ winds along beautifully, and the -hills are richly wooded. We changed horses first at _Balanagard_ (nine -miles), to which place Captain Murray, Lord Glenlyon’s brother, rode -with us. The hills grew higher and higher, and Albert said it was very -Swiss-looking in some parts. High ribbed mountains appeared in the -distance, higher than any we have yet seen. This was near _Aberfeldy_ -(nine miles), which is charmingly situated and the mountains very -lofty. At a quarter to six we reached _Taymouth_. At the gate a guard -of Highlanders, Lord Breadalbane’s men, met us. _Taymouth_ lies in a -valley surrounded by very high, wooded hills; it is most beautiful. -The house is a kind of castle, built of granite. The _coup-d’œil_ was -indescribable. There were a number of Lord Breadalbane’s Highlanders, -all in the Campbell tartan, drawn up in front of the house, with Lord -Breadalbane himself in a Highland dress at their head, a few of Sir -Neil Menzies’ men (in the Menzies red and white tartan), a number -of pipers playing, and a company of the 92nd Highlanders, also in -kilts. The firing of the guns, the cheering of the great crowd, the -picturesqueness of the dresses, the beauty of the surrounding country, -with its rich background of wooded hills, altogether formed one of the -finest scenes imaginable. It seemed as if a great chieftain in olden -feudal times was receiving his sovereign. It was princely and romantic. -Lord and Lady Breadalbane took us upstairs, the hall and stairs being -lined with Highlanders. - -[6] I revisited Taymouth last autumn, on the 3rd of October, from -Dunkeld (incognita), with Louise, the Dowager Duchess of Athole, and -Miss MacGregor. As we could not have driven through the grounds without -asking permission, and we did not wish to be known, we decided upon -not attempting to do so, and contented ourselves with getting out at a -gate close to a small fort, into which we were led by a woman from the -gardener’s house, near to which we had stopped, and who had no idea who -we were. - -We got out, and looked from this height down upon the house below, the -mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us everything; and then, -unknown, quite in private, I gazed--not without deep emotion--on the -scene of our reception twenty-four years ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane, -in a princely style, not to be equalled in grandeur and poetic effect. - -Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and happy. How many are -gone that were with us then! - -I was very thankful to have seen it again. - -It seemed unaltered.--1866. - -The Gothic staircase is of stone and very fine; the whole of the house -is newly and exquisitely furnished. The drawing-room, especially, is -splendid. Thence you go into a passage and a library, which adjoins our -private apartments. They showed us two sets of apartments, and we chose -those which are on the right hand of the corridor or ante-room to the -library. At eight we dined. Staying in the house, besides ourselves, -are the Buccleuchs and the two Ministers, the Duchess of Sutherland and -Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower,[7] the Abercorns, Roxburghs, Kinnoulls, -Lord Lauderdale, Sir Anthony Maitland, Lord Lorne,[8] the Fox Maules, -Belhavens, Mr. and Mrs. William Russell, Sir J. and Lady Elizabeth, -and the Misses Pringle, and two Messrs. Baillie, brothers of Lady -Breadalbane. The dining-room is a fine room in Gothic style, and has -never been dined in till this day. Our apartments also are inhabited -for the first time. After dinner the grounds were most splendidly -illuminated,--a whole chain of lamps along the railings, and on the -ground was written in lamps, “Welcome Victoria--Albert.” - -[7] Now Duchess of Argyll. - -[8] The present Duke of Argyll. - -A small fort, which is up in the woods, was illuminated, and bonfires -were burning on the tops of the hills. I never saw anything so -fairy-like. There were some pretty fireworks, and the whole ended by -the Highlanders dancing reels, which they do to perfection, to the -sound of the pipes, by torch-light, in front of the house. It had a -wild and very gay effect. - - - _Taymouth, Thursday, September 8._ - -Albert went off at half-past nine o’clock to shoot with Lord -Breadalbane. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk along a path -overlooking the _Tay_, which is very clear, and ripples and foams along -over the stones, the high mountains forming such a rich background. We -got up to the dairy, which is a kind of Swiss cottage, built of quartz, -very clean and nice. From the top of it there is a very pretty view of -_Loch Tay_. - -We returned home by the way we came. It rained the whole time, and very -hard for a little while. Albert returned at half-past three. He had -had excellent sport, and the trophies of it were spread out before the -house--nineteen roe-deer, several hares and pheasants, and three brace -of grouse; there was also a capercailzie that had been wounded, and -which I saw afterwards, a magnificent large bird. - -Albert had been near _Aberfeldy_, and had to shoot and walk the whole -way back, Lord Breadalbane himself beating, and 300 Highlanders out. We -went out at five, with Lady Breadalbane and the Duchess of Sutherland; -we saw part of _Loch Tay_, and drove along the banks of the _Tay_ under -fine trees, and saw Lord Breadalbane’s American buffaloes. - - - _Friday, September 9._ - -Albert off again after nine o’clock, to shoot. Soon after he left I -walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk across the iron bridge, and -along a grass walk overhanging the _Tay_. - -Two of the Highland Guard (they were stationed at almost every gate in -the park) followed us, and it looked like olden times to see them with -their swords drawn. - -We then walked to a lodge on the same road. A fat, good-humoured little -woman, about forty years old, cut some flowers for each of us, and -the Duchess gave her some money, saying, “From Her Majesty.” I never -saw any one more surprised than she was; she, however, came up to -me and said very warmly, that my people were delighted to see me in -_Scotland_. It came on to rain very heavily soon afterwards, but we -walked on. We saw a woman in the river, with her dress tucked up almost -to her knees, washing potatoes. - -The rain ceased just as we came home, but it went on pouring -frequently. Albert returned at twenty minutes to three, having had -very hard work on the moors, wading up to his knees in bogs every -now and then, and had killed nine brace of grouse. We lunched; then -we went to the drawing-room, and saw from the window the Highlanders -dancing reels; but unfortunately it rained the whole time. There were -nine pipers at the castle; sometimes one, and sometimes three played. -They always played about breakfast-time, again during the morning, at -luncheon, and also whenever we went in and out; again before dinner, -and during most of dinnertime. We both have become quite fond of the -bagpipes. - -At a quarter-past five we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch -and the Duchess of Sutherland (poor Lady Breadalbane not being very -well), Lord Breadalbane riding the whole time before us. We took a most -beautiful drive, first of all along part of the lake and between the -hills--such thorough mountain scenery,--and with little huts, so low, -so full of peat smoke, that one could hardly see anything for smoke. We -saw _Ben Lawers_, which is said to be 4,000 feet high, very well, and -further on, quite in the distance, _Ben More_--also the _Glenlyon_, and -the river _Lyon_, and many fine glens. It was quite dark when we came -home at half-past seven. At eight we dined; Lord and Lady Ruthven and -Lord and Lady Duncan dined here. After dinner came a number of people, -about ninety, and there was a ball. It opened with a quadrille, which I -danced with Lord Breadalbane, and Albert with the Duchess of Buccleuch. -A number of reels were danced, which it was very amusing and pretty to -see. - - - _Saturday, September 10._ - -We walked to the dairy and back--a fine bright morning; the weather the -two preceding days had been very unfortunate. I drove a little way with -Lady Breadalbane, the others walking, and then got out, and each of us -planted two trees, a fir and an oak. We got in again, and drove with -the whole party down to the lake, where we embarked. Lady Breadalbane, -the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth went by land, but all the -others went in boats. With us were Lord Breadalbane and the Duchess of -Norfolk and Duchess of Buccleuch; and two pipers sat on the bow and -played very often. I have since been reading in _The Lady of the Lake_, -and this passage reminds me of our voyage:— - - “See the proud pipers on the bow, - And mark the gaudy streamers flow - From their loud chanters down, and sweep - The furrow’d bosom of the deep, - As, rushing through the lake amain, - They plied the ancient Highland strain.” - -Our row of 16 miles up _Loch Tay_ to _Auchmore_, a cottage of Lord -Breadalbane’s, near the end of the lake, was the prettiest thing -imaginable. We saw the splendid scenery to such great advantage on -both sides: _Ben Lawers_, with small waterfalls descending its sides, -amid other high mountains wooded here and there; with _Kenmore_ in -the distance; the view, looking back, as the loch winds, was most -beautiful. The boatmen sang two Gaelic boat-songs, very wild and -singular; the language so guttural and yet so soft. Captain McDougall, -who steered, and who is the head of the McDougalls, showed us the -real “brooch of Lorn,” which was taken by his ancestor from Robert -Bruce in a battle. The situation of _Auchmore_ is exquisite; the trees -growing so beautifully down from the top of the mountains, quite into -the water, and the mountains all round, make it an enchanting spot. -We landed and lunched in the cottage, which is a very nice little -place. The day was very fine; the Highlanders were there again. We -left _Auchmore_ at twenty minutes past three, having arrived there at -a quarter before three. The kindness and attention to us of Lord and -of Lady Breadalbane (who is very delicate) were unbounded. We passed -_Killin_, where there is a mountain stream running over large stones, -and forming waterfalls. - -The country we came to now was very wild, beginning at _Glen Dochart_, -through which the _Dochart_ flows; nothing but moors and very high -rocky mountains. We came to a small lake called, I think, _Laragilly_, -amidst the wildest and finest scenery we had yet seen. _Glen Ogle_, -which is a sort of long pass, putting one in mind of the prints of -the _Kyber Pass_, the road going for some way down hill and up hill, -through these very high mountains, and the escort in front looking like -mere specks from the great height. We also saw _Ben Voirlich_. At _Loch -Earn Head_ we changed horses. Lord Breadalbane rode with us the whole -way up to this point, and then he put his Factor (in Highland dress) up -behind our carriage. It came on to rain, and rained almost the whole -of the rest of the time. We passed along _Loch Earn_, which is a very -beautiful long lake skirted by high mountains; but is not so long or -so large as _Loch Tay_. Just as we turned and went by _St. Fillans_, -the view of the lake was very fine. There is a large detached rock with -rich verdure on it, which is very striking. - -We also saw _Glenartney_, the mountain on which Lord Willoughby has -his deer forest. We passed by Sir D. Dundas’s place, _Dunira_, before -we changed horses at _Comrie_, for the last time, and then by Mr. -Williamson’s, and by _Ochtertyre_, Sir W. Keith Murray’s. - -Triumphal arches were erected in many places. We passed through -_Crieff_, and a little past seven reached _Drummond Castle_, by a very -steep ascent. Lord Willoughby received us at the door, and showed us to -our rooms, which are small but nice. Besides Lord and Lady Willoughby -and the two Misses Willoughby, and our own people, the dinner-party was -composed of the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth L. Gower, Lord -and Lady Carington, Mr. and Mrs. Heathcote, the Duke de Richelieu, Lord -Ossulston, Mr. Drummond, and the officers of the Guard. - - - _Drummond Castle, Sunday, September 11._ - -We walked in the garden, which is really very fine, with terraces, like -an old French garden. Part of the old castle and the archway remains. - -At twelve o’clock we had prayers in the drawing-room, which were read -by a young clergyman, who preached a good sermon. - -It poured the whole afternoon, and, after writing, I read to Albert -the three first cantos of _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_, which -delighted us both; and then we looked over some curious, fine old -prints by Ridinger. At eight we dined. The Duchess of Sutherland and -Lady Elizabeth had gone; but Lord and Lady Abercorn and Lord and Lady -Kinnoull and their daughter added to the party. - - - _Monday, September 12._ - -Albert got up at five o’clock to go out deer-stalking. I walked out -with the Duchess of Norfolk. - -All the Highlanders (Lord Willoughby’s people, 110 in number), were -drawn up in the court, young Mr. Willoughby and Major Drummond being -at their head, and I walked round with Lady Willoughby. All the arms -they wore belonged to Lord Willoughby; and there was one double-hilted -sword, which had been at the battle of _Bannockburn_. I hear that at -_Dunkeld_ there were nearly 900 Highlanders, 500 being _Athole_ men; -and, altogether, with the various Highlanders who were on guard, there -were 1,000 men. - -At length--a little before three--to my joy, Albert returned, -dreadfully sunburnt, and a good deal tired; he had shot a stag. He -said the exertion and difficulty were very great. He had changed his -dress at a small farm-house. _Glenartney_ is ten miles from _Drummond -Castle_; he drove there. Campbell of Monzie (pronounced “Monie”), a -young gentleman who has a place near here, went with him and was, -Albert said, extremely active. To give some description of this curious -sport, I will copy an extract from a letter Albert has written to -Charles,[9] giving a short account of it:— - -“Without doubt deer-stalking is one of the most fatiguing, but it is -also one of the most interesting of pursuits. There is not a tree, or a -bush behind which you can hide yourself.... One has, therefore, to be -constantly on the alert in order to circumvent them; and to keep under -the hill out of their wind, crawling on hands and knees, and dressed -entirely in grey.” - -[9] My half-brother, Prince Leiningen, who died in 1856. - -At half-past four we drove out with Lady Willoughby and the Duchess -of Buccleuch. We drove through _Fern Tower_ (belonging to the widow -of the first Sir D. Baird), where we stopped the carriage; then to -_Abercairny_, Major Moray’s. We got out there a moment to look at the -very fine house he is building, then drove home by _Monzie_ (Campbell -of Monzie’s), and Sir W. Murray’s, and had a very good view of the -Highland hills--a very fine day. At eight we dined. The Belhavens, -Seftons, Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and various others composed the -party. After dinner more people came--several in kilts; and many reels -were danced; Campbell of Monzie is an exceedingly good dancer. We -danced one country dance--I with Lord Willoughby--and Albert with Lady -Carington. - - - _Tuesday, September 13._ - -We had to start early, and therefore got up soon after seven o’clock; -breakfast before eight. At nine we set off. The morning was very foggy -and hazy. We passed near Lord Strathallan’s place and stopped for a -moment where old Lady Strathallan was seated. Lord Willoughby rode with -us the whole way till we arrived here. Soon after this we came to a -very extraordinary Roman encampment at _Ardoch_, called the “Lindrum.” -Albert got out; but I remained in the carriage, and Major Moray showed -it to him. They say it is one of the most perfect in existence. - -We changed horses at _Greenloaning_, and passed through _Dunblane_. -At twelve o’clock we reached _Stirling_, where the crowd was quite -fearful, and the streets so narrow, that it was most alarming; and -order was not very well kept. Up to the Castle, the road or street is -dreadfully steep; we had a foot procession before us the whole way, and -the heat was intense. The situation of the Castle is extremely grand; -but I prefer that of _Edinburgh Castle_. Old Sir Archibald Christie -explained everything to us very well. We were shown the room where -James II. killed Douglas, and the window out of which he was thrown. -The ceiling is most curious. A skeleton was found in the garden only -twenty-five years ago, and there appears to be little doubt it was -Douglas’s. From the terrace the view is very extensive; but it was so -thick and hazy, that we could not see the Highland hills well. Sir A. -Christie showed us the field of the battle of _Bannockburn_; and the -“Knoll,” close under the walls of the Castle, from which the ladies -used to watch the tournaments; all the embankments yet remain. We also -saw Knox’s pulpit. - -We next passed through _Falkirk_, and changed horses at _Callander -Park_, Mr. Forbes’s; both he and Sir Michael Bruce having ridden with -us from beyond _Stirling_. We passed Lord Zetland on the road, and -shortly before reaching _Linlithgow_, where we changed horses, Lord -Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see the Palace, which, I am -told, is well worth seeing. The Duke of Buccleuch met us soon after -this, and, accompanied by a large number of his tenants, rode with us -on horseback to _Dalkeith_. We changed horses at _Kirkliston_, and -lastly at the outskirts of _Edinburgh_. There were a good many people -assembled at _Edinburgh_; but we were unable to stop. We reached -_Dalkeith_ at half-past five. - -The journey was 65 miles, and I was very tired, and felt most happy -that we had safely arrived here. - - - _Dalkeith, Wednesday, September 14._ - -This is our last day in _Scotland_; it is really a delightful country, -and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out and saw the fine -greenhouse the Duke has built, all in stone, in the Renaissance style. -At half-past three o’clock we went out with the Duchess of Buccleuch, -only Colonel Bouverie riding with us. We drove through _Melville Park_, -and through one of the little collier villages (of which there are a -great many about _Dalkeith_), called _Loanhead_, to _Rosslyn_. - -We got out at the chapel, which is in excellent preservation; it was -built in the fifteenth century, and the architecture is exceedingly -rich. It is the burying place of the family of Lord Rosslyn, who keeps -it in repair. Twenty Barons of Rosslyn are buried there in armour. A -great crowd had collected about the chapel when we came out of it. - -From _Rosslyn_ we then drove to _Hawthornden_, which is also -beautifully situated at a great height above the river. To our great -surprise we found an immense crowd of people there, who must have run -over from _Rosslyn_ to meet us. - -We got out, and went down into some of the very curious caves in -the solid rock, where Sir Alexander Ramsay and his brave followers -concealed themselves, and held out for so long a time. The Duchess told -us there were many of these caves all along the river to _Rosslyn_. - -We came home through _Bonnyrigg_, another collier village, and through -_Dalkeith_. - - - _Thursday, September 15._ - -We breakfasted at half-past seven o’clock, and at eight we set off, -with the Duchess of Buccleuch, Lord Liverpool, and Lord Hardwicke -following. The ladies and equerries had embarked earlier. The day was -very bright and fine. The arrangements in _Edinburgh_, through which we -had to pass, were extremely well managed, and excellent order was kept. -We got out of the carriage on the pier, and went at once on board the -“Trident,” a large steamboat belonging to the General Steam Navigation -Company. The Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, Lady J. Scott, the Emlyns, -Lord Cawdor, and Lady M. Campbell, came on board with us, and we then -took leave of them. We both thanked the Duke and Duchess for their -extreme kindness, attention, and hospitality to us, which really were -very great--indeed we had felt ourselves quite at home at _Dalkeith_. - -As the fair shores of _Scotland_ receded more and more from our view, -we felt quite sad that this very pleasant and interesting tour was -over; but we shall never forget it. - -On board the “Trident” (where the accommodation for us was much -larger and better than on board the “Royal George,” and which was -beautifully fitted up,) were Admiral Sir E. Brace, a pleasant old man, -Commander Bullock, and three other officers. The “Rhadamanthus,” -with some servants and carriages, set off last night, as well as the -“Shearwater,” with Lord Liverpool and Lord Hardwicke on board. - -The “Salamander” (with Mr. and Mrs. Anson on board), the “Fearless,” -and the “Royal George” yacht set off at the same time with us, but the -wind being against us, we soon lost sight of the yacht, and, not very -long after, of all our steamers, except the “Monarch,” which belongs -to the General Steam Navigation Company, and had some of our horses on -board. It started nearly at the same time, and was the only one which -could keep up with us. We passed _Tantallon Castle_, a grand old ruin -on the coast, and quite close to the _Bass Rock_, which is very fine, -and nearly opposite _Tantallon_. It was entirely covered with sea-gulls -and island geese, which swarm in thousands and thousands, quite -whitening its sides, and hovering above and around it. - -At two o’clock we passed the famed _St. Abb’s Head_, which we had so -longed to see on our first voyage to _Scotland_. I read a few stanzas -out of _Marmion_, giving an account of the voyage of the nuns to _Holy -Island_, and saw the ruins of the convent on it; then _Bamborough -Castle_, and a little further on the _Ferne Islands_. We were very -sorry to hear that poor Grace Darling had died the night before we -passed the first time. - - - _Friday, September 16._ - -We heard that we had passed _Flamborough Head_ at half-past five in the -morning. The “Black Eagle” we passed at half-past eight last night, -and we could only just see her smoke by the time we came on deck. -At half-past nine I followed Albert on deck; it was a fine, bright -morning. We had some coffee, and walked about; we were then quite -in the open sea; it was very fine all day. At five we were close to -the “Rhadamanthus,” which had been in sight all day. We had a very -pleasant little dinner on deck, in a small tent made of flags, at -half-past five. We passed _Yarmouth_ at about a quarter to six--very -flat--and looking, Albert said, like a Flemish town. We walked up and -down on deck, admiring the splendid moonlight, which was reflected so -beautifully on the sea. - -We went below at half-past seven, and I read the fourth and fifth -cantos of _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_ to Albert, and then we played -on the piano. - - - _Saturday, September 17._ - -At three o’clock in the morning we were awakened by loud guns, -which, however, were welcome sounds to us, as we knew that we were -at the _Nore_, the entrance of the river. About six we heard the -“Rhadamanthus” had just passed us, and they said we were lying off -_Southend_, in order to let the “Black Eagle” come up. It was a very -bright day, though a little hazy. - -The shipping in the river looked very pretty as we passed along. At -ten minutes past ten we got into the barge and landed. The Duchess of -Norfolk and Miss Matilda Paget and the equerries were all there, but -the others we knew nothing of. Sir James Clark had been on board the -“Trident” with us. We drove off at once to the railway terminus, and -reached _Windsor Castle_ at half-past twelve o’clock. - - - - -VISIT TO BLAIR ATHOLE. - - - _Monday, September 9, 1844._ - -We got up at a quarter to six o’clock. We breakfasted. Mama came to -take leave of us; Alice and the baby[10] were brought in, poor little -things, to wish us “good-by.” Then good Bertie[11] came down to see -us, and Vicky[12] appeared as “voyageuse,” and was all impatience to -go. At seven we set off with her for the railroad, Viscountess Canning -and Lady Caroline Cocks[13] in our carriage. A very wet morning. -We got into the carriage again at _Paddington_, and proceeded to -_Woolwich_, which we reached at nine. Vicky was safely put into the -boat, and then carefully carried on deck of the yacht by Renwick,[14] -the sergeant-footman, whom we took with us in the boat on purpose. Lord -Liverpool, Lord Aberdeen, and Sir James Clark met us on board. Sir -Robert Peel was to have gone with us, but could not, in consequence of -his little girl being very ill. - -[10] Prince Alfred, then only five weeks old. - -[11] Name by which the Prince of Wales is always called in his family. - -[12] Victoria, Princess Royal. - -[13] Now Lady C. Courtenay. - -[14] Now pensioned: promoted to Gentleman Porter in 1854. A very good -servant; and a native of Galashiels. - - - _Blair Athole, Wednesday, September 11._ - -At six o’clock we inquired and heard that we were in the port of -_Dundee_. Albert saw our other gentlemen, who had had a very bad -passage. Tuesday night they had a dreadful storm. _Dundee_ is a very -large place, and the port is large and open; the situation of the -town is very fine, but the town itself is not so. The Provost and -people had come on board, and wanted us to land later, but we got this -satisfactorily arranged. At half-past eight we got into our barge with -Vicky, and our ladies and gentlemen. The sea was bright and blue; the -boat danced along beautifully. We had about a quarter of a mile to row. - -A staircase, covered with red cloth, was arranged for us to land upon, -and there were a great many people; but everything was so well managed -that all crowding was avoided, and only the Magistrates were below the -platform where the people were. Albert walked up the steps with me, -I holding his arm and Vicky his hand, amidst the loud cheers of the -people, all the way to the carriage, our dear Vicky behaving like a -grown-up person--not put out, nor frightened, nor nervous. We got into -our postchaise, and at the same time Renwick took Vicky up in his arms, -and put her in the next carriage with her governess and nurse. - -There was a great crowd in _Dundee_, but everything was very well -managed, and there would have been no crowding at all, had not, as -usual, about twenty people begun to run along with the carriage, and -thus forced a number of others to follow. About three miles beyond -_Dundee_ we stopped at the gate of Lord Camperdown’s place: here a -triumphal arch had been erected, and Lady Camperdown and Lady Duncan -and her little boy, with others, were all waiting to welcome us, and -were very civil and kind. The little boy, beautifully dressed in the -Highland dress, was carried to Vicky, and gave her a basket with fruit -and flowers. I said to Albert I could hardly believe that our child -was travelling with us--it put me so in mind of myself when I was -the “little Princess.” Albert observed that it was always said that -parents lived their lives over again in their children, which is a very -pleasant feeling. - -The country from here to _Cupar Angus_ is very well cultivated, and you -see hills in the distance. The harvest is only now being got in, but -is very good; and everything much greener than in _England_. Nothing -could be quieter than our journey, and the scenery is so beautiful! -It is very different from _England_: all the houses built of stone; -the people so different,--sandy hair, high cheekbones; children with -long shaggy hair and bare legs and feet; little boys in kilts. Near -_Dunkeld_, and also as you get more into the _Highlands_, there are -prettier faces. Those jackets which the girls wear are so pretty; all -the men and women, as well as the children, look very healthy. - -_Cupar Angus_ is a small place--a village--14 miles from _Dundee_. -There you enter _Perthshire_. We crossed the river _Isla_, which made -me think of my poor little dog “Isla.” For about five or six miles we -went along a very pretty but rough cross-road, with the _Grampians_ in -the distance. We saw _Birnam Wood_ and Sir W. Stewart’s place in that -fine valley on the opposite side of the river. All along such splendid -scenery, and Albert enjoyed it so much--rejoicing in the beauties of -nature, the sight of mountains, and the pure air. - -The peeps of _Dunkeld_, with the river _Tay_ deep in the bottom, and -the view of the bridge and cathedral, surrounded by the high wooded -hills, as you approached it, were lovely in the extreme. We got out at -an inn (which was small, but very clean) at _Dunkeld_, and stopped to -let Vicky have some broth. Such a charming view from the window! Vicky -stood and bowed to the people out of the window. There never was such a -good traveller as she is, sleeping in the carriage at her usual times, -not put out, not frightened at noise or crowds; but pleased and amused. -She never heard the anchor go at night on board ship; but slept as -sound as a top. - -Shortly after leaving _Dunkeld_, which is 20 miles from _Blair_, and 15 -from _Cupar Angus_, we met Lord Glenlyon in a carriage; he jumped out -and rode with us the whole way to _Blair_,--and a most beautiful road -it is. Six miles on, in the woods to the left, we could see _Kinnaird -House_, where the late Lady Glenlyon (Lord Glenlyon’s mother, who died -about two or three months ago) used to live. Then we passed the point -of _Logierait_, where there are the remains of an ancient castle,--the -old Regality Court of the Dukes of Athole. At _Moulinearn_ we tasted -some of the “_Athole_ brose,” which was brought to the carriage. - -We passed _Pitlochrie_, a small village, _Faskally_, a very pretty -place of Mr. Butter’s, to the left, and then came to the _Pass of -Killiecrankie_, which is quite magnificent; the road winds along -it, and you look down a great height, all wooded on both sides; the -_Garry_ rolling below it. I cannot describe how beautiful it is. -Albert was in perfect ecstasies. _Lude_, Mr. Mc Inroy’s, to the right, -is very pretty. _Blair Athole_ is only four or five miles from the -_Killiecrankie Pass_. Lord Glenlyon has had a new approach made. The -house is a large plain white building, surrounded by high hills, which -one can see from the windows. Lord and Lady Glenlyon, with their little -boy, received us at the door, and showed us to our rooms, and then left -us. - - - _Blair Castle, Blair Athole, - Thursday, September 12._ - -We took a delightful walk of two hours. Immediately near the house the -scenery is very wild, which is most enjoyable. The moment you step -out of the house you see those splendid hills all round. We went to -the left through some neglected pleasure-grounds, and then through -the wood, along a steep winding path overhanging the rapid stream. -These Scotch streams, full of stones, and clear as glass, are most -beautiful; the peeps between the trees, the depth of the shadows, the -mossy stones, mixed with slate, &c., which cover the banks, are lovely; -at every turn you have a picture. We were up high, but could not get -to the top; Albert in such delight; it is a happiness to see him, he -is in such spirits. We came back by a higher drive, and then went to -the Factor’s house, still higher up, where Lord and Lady Glenlyon are -living, having given _Blair_ up to us. We walked on, to a cornfield -where a number of women were cutting and reaping the oats (“shearing” -as they call it in _Scotland_), with a splendid view of the hills -before us, so rural and romantic, so unlike our daily _Windsor_ walk -(delightful as that is); and this change does such good: as Albert -observes, it refreshes one for a long time. We then went into the -kitchen-garden, and to a walk from which there is a magnificent view. -This mixture of great wildness and art is perfection. - -At a little before four o’clock Albert drove me out in the pony phaeton -till nearly six--such a drive! Really to be able to sit in one’s pony -carriage, and to see such wild, beautiful scenery as we did, the -farthest point being only five miles from the house, is an immense -delight. We drove along _Glen Tilt_, through a wood overhanging the -river _Tilt_, which joins the _Garry_, and as we left the wood we -came upon such a lovely view--_Ben-y-Ghlo_ straight before us--and -under these high hills the river _Tilt_ gushing and winding over stones -and slates, and the hills and mountains skirted at the bottom with -beautiful trees; the whole lit up by the sun; and the air so pure and -fine; but no description can at all do it justice, or give an idea of -what this drive was. - -Oh! what can equal the beauties of nature! What enjoyment there is -in them! Albert enjoys it so much; he is in ecstasies here. He has -inherited this love for nature from his dear father. - -We went as far as the _Marble Lodge_, a keeper’s cottage, and came back -the same way. - - - _Monday, September 16._ - -After our luncheon at half-past three, Albert drove me (Lord Glenlyon -riding with us) to the _Falls of the Bruar_. We got out at the road, -and walked to the upper falls, and down again by the path on the -opposite side. It is a walk of three miles round, and a very steep -ascent; at every turn the view of the rushing falls is extremely fine, -and looking back on the hills, which were so clear and so beautifully -lit up, with the rapid stream below, was most exquisite. We threw -stones down to see the effect in the water. The trees which surround -the falls were planted by the late Duke of Athole in compliance with -Burns’s “_Petition_.”[15] - -[15] _The Humble Petition of Bruar Water to the Noble Duke of Athole._ - -The evening was beautiful, and we feasted our eyes on the -ever-changing, splendid views of the hills and vales as we drove back. -Albert said that the chief beauty of mountain scenery consisted in its -frequent changes. We came home at six o’clock. - - - _Tuesday, September 17._ - -At a quarter to four o’clock we drove out, Albert driving me, and the -ladies and Lord Glenlyon following in another carriage. We drove to -the _Pass of Killiecrankie_, which looked in its greatest beauty and -splendour, and appeared quite closed, so that one could not imagine how -one was to get out of it. We drove over a bridge to the right, where -the view of the pass both ways, with the _Garry_ below, is beautiful. -We got out a little way beyond this and walked on a mile to the _Falls -of the Tummel_, the stream of which is famous for salmon; these falls, -however, are not so fine, or nearly so high, as those of the _Bruar_. -We got home at half-past six; the day was fast fading, and the lights -were lovely. - -We watched two stags fighting just under our window; they are in an -enclosure, and roar incessantly. - - - _Wednesday, September 18._ - -At nine o’clock we set off on ponies, to go up one of the hills, Albert -riding the dun pony and I the grey, attended only by Lord Glenlyon’s -excellent servant, Sandy McAra, in his Highland dress. We went out by -the back way across the road, and to the left through the ford, Sandy -leading my pony and Albert following closely, the water reaching up -above Sandy’s knees. We then went up the hill of _Tulloch_, first -straight up a very steep cabbage-field, and then in a zigzag manner -round, till we got up to the top; the ponies scrambling up over stones -and everything, and never making a false step; and the view all round -being splendid and most beautifully lit up. We went up to the very -highest top, which cannot be seen from the house or from below; and -from here the view is like a panorama: you see the _Falls of the -Bruar_, _Ben-y-Chat_, _Ben Vrackie_, _Ben-y-Ghlo_, the _Killiecrankie -Pass_, and a whole range of distant hills on the other side, which -one cannot at all see from below. In the direction of _Taymouth_ you -also see _Dalnacardoch_, the first stage from _Blair_. _Blair_ itself -and the houses in the village looked like little toys from the great -height we were on. It was quite romantic. Here we were with only this -Highlander behind us holding the ponies (for we got off twice and -walked about)--not a house, not a creature near us, but the pretty -Highland sheep, with their horns and black faces,--up at the top of -_Tulloch_, surrounded by beautiful mountains. - -We came back the same way that we went, and stopped at the ford to let -the ponies drink before we rode through. We walked from inside the -gate, and came home at half-past eleven,--the most delightful, most -romantic ride and walk I ever had. I had never been up such a mountain, -and then the day was so fine. The hill of _Tulloch_ is covered with -grass, and is so delightfully soft to walk upon. - - - _Thursday, September 19._ - -Albert set off, immediately after luncheon, deer-stalking, and I was -to follow and wait below in order to see the deer driven down. At four -o’clock I set off with Lady Glenlyon and Lady Canning, Mr. Oswald -and Lord Charles Wellesley riding, by the lower _Glen Tilt_ drive. -We stopped at the end; but were still in the wood; Sandy was looking -out and watching. After waiting we were allowed to come out of the -carriage, and came upon the road, where we saw some deer on the brow -of the hill. We sat down on the ground, Lady Canning and I sketching, -and Sandy and Mr. Oswald, both in Highland costume, (the same that -they all wear here, viz. a grey cloth jacket and waistcoat, with a -kilt and a Highland bonnet,) lying on the grass and looking through -glasses. After waiting again some time, we were told in a mysterious -whisper that “they were coming,” and indeed a great herd _did_ appear -on the brow of the hill, and came running down a good way, when most -provokingly two men who were walking on the road--which they had no -business to have done--suddenly came in sight, and then the herd all -ran back again and the sport was spoilt. After waiting some little -while we observed Albert, Lord Glenlyon, and the keepers on the brow of -the hill, and we got into the carriage, drove a little way, went over -the bridge, where there is a shepherd’s “shiel,” and got out and waited -for them to join us, which they did almost immediately,--looking very -picturesque with their rifles. My poor Albert had not even fired one -shot for fear of spoiling the whole thing, but had been running about a -good deal. The group of keepers and dogs was very pretty. After talking -and waiting a little while, we walked some way on, and then Albert -drove home with us. - - - _Saturday, September 21._ - -After breakfast Albert saw Lord Glenlyon, who proposed that he should -go deer-stalking and that I should follow him. At twenty minutes to -eleven we drove off with Lady Canning for _Glen Tilt_. The day was -glorious and it would have been a pity to lose it, but it was a long -hard day’s work, though extremely delightful and enjoyable, and unlike -anything I had ever done before. I should have enjoyed it still more -had I been able to be with Albert the whole time. - -We drove nearly to Peter Fraser’s house, which is between the _Marble -Lodge_ and _Forest Lodge_. Here Albert and I walked about a little, -and then Lady Canning and we mounted our ponies and set off on our -journey, Lord Glenlyon leading my pony the whole way, Peter Fraser, -the head-keeper (a wonderfully active man) leading the way; Sandy and -six other Highlanders carrying rifles and leading dogs, and the rear -brought up by two ponies with our luncheon-box. Lawley,[16] Albert’s -Jäger, was also there, carrying one of Albert’s rifles; the other -Albert slung over his right shoulder, to relieve Lawley. So we set off -and wound round and round the hill, which had the most picturesque -effect imaginable. Such a splendid view all round, finer and more -extensive the higher we went! The day was delightful; but the sun very -hot. We saw the highest point of _Ben-y-Ghlo_, which one cannot see -from below, and the distant range of hills we had seen from _Tulloch_ -was beautifully softened by the slightest haze. We saw _Loch Vach_. The -road was very good, and as we ascended we had to speak in a whisper, as -indeed we did almost all day, for fear of coming upon deer unawares. -The wind was, however, right, which is everything here for the deer. I -wish we could have had Landseer with us to sketch our party, with the -background, it was so pretty, as were also the various “halts,” &c. If -I only had had time to sketch them! - -[16] A very good man. His health obliged him to give up being a Jäger -in 1848; he was then appointed a Page, in which position he continued -till he died, in November, 1865. - -We stopped at the top of the _Ghrianan_, whence you look down an -immense height. It is here that the eagles sometimes sit. Albert got -off and looked about in great admiration, and walked on a little, and -then remounted his pony. We then went nearly to the top of _Cairn -Chlamain_, and here we separated, Albert going off with Peter, Lawley, -and two other keepers, to get a “quiet shot” as they call it; and Lady -Canning, Lord Glenlyon, and I went up quite to the top, which is deep -in moss. - -Here we sat down and stayed some time sketching the ponies below; Lord -Glenlyon and Sandy remaining near us. The view was quite beautiful, -nothing but mountains all around us, and the solitude, the complete -solitude, very impressive. We saw the range of _Mar Forest_, and the -inner range to the left, receding from us, as we sat facing the hill, -called _Scarsach_, where the counties of _Perth_, _Aberdeen_, and -_Inverness_ join. My pony was brought up for me, and we then descended -this highest pinnacle, and proceeded on a level to meet Albert, whom I -descried coming towards us. We met him shortly after; he had had bad -luck, I am sorry to say. We then sat down on the grass and had some -luncheon; then I walked a little with Albert and we got on our ponies. -As we went on towards home some deer were seen in _Glen Chroine_, -which is called the “Sanctum;” where it is supposed that there are a -great many. Albert went off soon after this, and we remained on _Sron -a Chro_, for an hour, I am sure, as Lord Glenlyon said by so doing we -should turn the deer to Albert, whereas if we went on we should disturb -and spoil the whole thing. So we submitted. Albert looked like a little -speck creeping about on an opposite hill. We saw four herds of deer, -two of them close to us. It was a beautiful sight. - -Meanwhile I saw the sun sinking gradually, and I got quite alarmed lest -we should be benighted, and we called anxiously for Sandy, who had gone -away for a moment, to give a signal to come back. We then began our -descent, “squinting” the hill, the ponies going as safely and securely -as possible. As the sun went down the scenery became more and more -beautiful, the sky crimson, golden-red and blue, and the hills looking -purple and lilac, most exquisite, till at length it set, and the hues -grew softer in the sky and the outlines of the hills sharper. I never -saw anything so fine. It soon, however, grew very dark. - -At length Albert met us, and he told me he had waited all the time -for us, as he knew how anxious I should be. He had been very unlucky, -and had lost his sport, for the rifle would not go off just when he -could have shot some fine harts; yet he was as merry and cheerful as -if nothing had happened to disappoint him. We got down quite safely to -the bridge; our ponies going most surely, though it was quite dusk when -we were at the bottom of the hill. We walked to the _Marble Lodge_, -and then got into the pony carriage and drove home by very bright -moonlight, which made everything look very lovely; but the road made -one a little nervous. - -We saw a flight of ptarmigan, with their white wings, on the top of -_Sron a Chro_, also plovers, grouse, and pheasants. We were safely home -by a quarter to eight. - - - _Tuesday, October 1._ - -At a quarter-past eight o’clock we started, and were very very sorry -to leave _Blair_ and the dear _Highlands_! Every little trifle and -every spot I had become attached to; our life of quiet and liberty, -everything was so pleasant, and all the Highlanders and people who went -with us I had got to like so much. Oh! the dear hills, it made me very -sad to leave them behind! - -Lord Glenlyon rode with us, and we went back exactly the same road -we came; through _Killiecrankie_, _Pitlochrie_, saw _Logierait_, &c. -The battle of _Killiecrankie_ was fought in a field to your left, -as you come from _Blair_ and before you come to the pass; and Lord -Dundee was shot in a garden immediately above the field at _Urrard_ -(formerly called _Rinrory_) which belongs to Mr. Stewart of _Urrard_; -the Stewarts of _Urrard_ used formerly to live on _Craig Urrard_. We -reached _Dunkeld_ at half-past eleven. Mr. Oswald and Mr. Patrick Small -Keir, with a detachment of Highlanders, were there. We drove up to the -door of the cottage at _Dunkeld_ and got out there. It is beautifully -situated and the cottage is very pretty, with a good view of the river -from the windows. _Craig-y-Barns_ is a fine rocky hill to the left as -you drive from _Blair_. - -We walked to look at the beginning of the new house which the late -Duke of Athole commenced, but which has been left unfinished, and also -at a beautiful larch-tree, the first that was brought to _Scotland_. -I rode back on “Arghait Bhean”[17] for the last time, and took a sad -leave of him and of faithful Sandy McAra. We walked into the ruins of -the old cathedral and into that part which the late Duke fitted up for -service, and where there is a fine monument of him. I should never have -recognized the grounds of _Dunkeld_, so different did they look without -the encampment.[18] Beautiful as _Dunkeld_ is, it does not approach the -beauty and wildness of _Blair_. - -[17] This pony was given to me by the Duke of Athole in 1847, and is -now alive at Osborne. - -[18] _Vide_ page 14. - -After twelve o’clock we set off again, and to our astonishment Lord -Glenlyon insisted upon riding on with us to _Dundee_, which is 50 miles -from _Blair_! Captain J. Murray also rode with us from _Dunkeld_. It -made me feel sad to see the country becoming flatter and flatter. There -was a great crowd at _Cupar Angus_, and at _Dundee_ a still larger one, -and on the pier the crush was very great. - -We took leave of Lord Glenlyon with real regret, and he seemed quite -unhappy at our going. No one could be more zealous or kinder than he -was. - -There was a fearful swell when we went in the barge to the yacht. - - - _Thursday, October 3._ - -The English coast appeared terribly flat. Lord Aberdeen was quite -touched when I told him I was so attached to the dear, dear _Highlands_ -and missed the fine hills so much. There is a great peculiarity about -the _Highlands_ and Highlanders; and they are such a chivalrous, fine, -active people. Our stay among them was so delightful. Independently of -the beautiful scenery, there was a quiet, a retirement, a wildness, a -liberty, and a solitude that had such a charm for us. - -The day had cleared up and was bright, but the air very heavy and -thick, quite different from the mountain air, which was so pure, light, -and brisk. At two o’clock we reached _Woolwich_, and shortly after -disembarked. We proceeded straight to the railroad, and arrived at -_Windsor Castle_ at a few minutes past four. - - - - -TOUR ROUND THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND, AND VISIT TO ARDVERIKIE. - - - _Wednesday, August 11, 1847._ - -We proceeded from the _Osborne Pier_ on board the yacht. Our two eldest -children, my brother Charles, the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk, Lord -Grey (Secretary of State), Lady Jocelyn, General Wemyss, Sir James -Clark, and Miss Hildyard, accompanied us. - -We have with us the following steamers:--The “Black Eagle,” “Garland,” -“Undine,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge” (war-steamers). The two equerries are -on board the “Black Eagle.” - -We were soon under weigh, and as _Osborne_ vanished from our sight, I -thought of our poor children left behind. - - - _On Board the Victoria and Albert, - in Dartmouth Harbour, - Thursday, August 12._ - -I have not much to relate. Our voyage has not been what we intended, -_mais l’homme propose et Dieu dispose_; for instead of being at -_Falmouth_ we are only at _Dartmouth_! We started at five o’clock, and -soon after felt the vessel stop, and on inquiring, heard that the fog -was so thick it was impossible to proceed. At last Captain Smithett -was sent out in the “Garland” to report on the state of the weather; -and he soon returned, saying that all was clear enough to proceed -outside _The Needles_ (we were in _Alum Bay_). So we started again, -and, after breakfast, we came on deck, where I remained working and -talking; feeling quite well; but towards one o’clock the ground swell -had increased, and we decided to run into the harbour we now are in. - - - _On Board the Victoria and Albert, - Milford Haven, South Wales, - Saturday, August 14._ - -Arrived here this afternoon at five. I will give an account of what has -passed since leaving _Dartmouth_. Thursday evening, after dining with -Charles, we went on deck, and found the whole town illuminated, and the -effect of its curious high houses running down quite into the still -sea, which reflected the illumination, was lovely,--the night being so -fine and calm. - - - _Friday, August 13._ - -We started at four and reached the _Scilly Islands_ at three in the -afternoon; it had been very rough. The numerous little rocky islands, -in the midst of which we are lying, are very curious. - -[Illustration] - -_St. Mary’s_, the principal island, has a little town, a church, and -a small harbour. Exactly opposite, on the isle of _Tresco_, is Mr. -Smith’s house; he has the lease of all the islands from the Duchy of -Cornwall. Farther to the left is _St. Agnes_, with a lighthouse and -innumerable rocks. - -Albert (who, as well as Charles, has not been unwell, while I suffered -very much) went with Charles and Bertie to see one of the islands. The -children recover from their sea-sickness directly. When Albert and the -others returned, soon after five, we went with our ladies and gentlemen -in the barge across the harbour,--where, blue as the sea was, it was -still rather rough,--and landed at a little pier at _St. Mary’s_. The -harbour, surmounted by the old fort of the _Star Castle_, reminded -me of the harbour of _St. Heliers_. We got into a pony carriage -belonging to Mr. Smith, with Charles and Lady Jocelyn, and drove -through the place, which looks like a small fishing town, and then -round the fortifications of the castle, where there is a very pretty -walk overhanging the sea; the rock being covered with fern, and heath, -and furze. The extensive view of the islands and rocks around is very -beautiful. The town is built upon a very narrow strip of land, with a -small bay on either side. We got out at the old castle, which bears the -date of one of the Edwards. The view from the battlements is very fine. -We returned the same way we went, a little before seven. - - - _Saturday, August 14._ - -We started at five o’clock, and the yacht then began to roll and pitch -dreadfully, and I felt again very unwell; but I came on deck at three -in the afternoon, the sea then was like glass, and we were close to the -Welsh coast. - -This harbour, _Milford Haven_, is magnificent; the largest we have; a -fleet might lie here. We are anchored just off _Milford_. _Pembroke_ in -front, in the distance. The cliffs, which are reddish brown, are not -very high. Albert and Charles went in the “Fairy” to _Pembroke_, and I -sketched. Numbers of boats came out, with Welshwomen in their curious -high-crowned men’s hats; and Bertie was much cheered, for the people -seemed greatly pleased to see the “Prince of Wales.” Albert returned at -a quarter to eight. - -[Illustration] - -A very pretty dairymaid, in complete Welsh costume, was brought on -board for me to see. We found _Milford_ illuminated when we went on -deck, and bonfires burning everywhere. - - - _Sunday, August 15._ - -We started again at four o’clock, but this time had a beautiful day, -with the sea smooth the whole way. About eleven we saw the mountainous -coast of _Caernarvonshire_; the hills, which are in fact high -mountains, are bold and finely shaped, and, Albert said, reminded him -much of _Ischia_, with the beautiful deep blue sea and bright sky. - -Having arrived at the entrance of the _Menai Straits_, we all left the -“Victoria and Albert,” and went on board the “Fairy.” The “Victoria -and Albert” with the “Black Eagle” (the two equerries having joined -us), the “Undine” and “Scourge,” proceeded round the _Isle of Anglesea_ -by _Holyhead_, and, in the “Fairy,” accompanied by the “Garland,” we -went into the _Straits_. As we entered, the view of the fine mountains -with their rich verdure--_Snowdon_ rising splendidly in the midst--and -of the fields and woods below, was really glorious. To the left the -country is extremely flat. Then _Caernarvon_ came in sight, with its -grand old Castle so finely situated. We stopped for a few moments off -here, but did not land. The mountains disappeared for a while, and -then re-appeared more beautiful than ever. We passed close to _Plas -Newydd_, where we had spent six weeks fifteen years ago. I felt as if I -remembered it all very well; but admired the scenery even more than I -had expected from my previous recollection. - -We passed the famous _Swilly Rocks_, and saw the works they are -making for the tube for the railroad, and then went under the _Menai -Bridge_ and stopped immediately on the other side. There were crowds -of loyal people in steamers and boats, playing “God save the Queen,” -and cheering tremendously. Albert and Charles landed and walked over -the bridge. When they returned we went on again, and stopped in a most -beautiful spot, with almost Swiss scenery, opposite _Penrhyn Castle_, -Colonel Douglas Pennant’s (which I saw in the late possessor’s time -unfinished), and near _Bangor_, with its wooded banks, through which -one can see the high-road to _Beaumaris_. The purple hills, with the -verdure below, and the blue sea, were extremely picturesque. - -Albert and Charles went to see _Penrhyn_. As soon as they returned we -dined below in the “Fairy,” and at eight we returned, with the children -and all our people, to the “Victoria and Albert.” The evening was -beautiful and the day very successful. - - - _Monday, August 16._ - -We woke soon after four o’clock, when getting under weigh, and were -surprised to feel the yacht stop not an hour after. Something had gone -wrong with the paddle-wheel--just as happened last year--and it took -full two hours to set it right. Then at seven we started afresh. A -beautiful morning with a very smooth sea. By half-past ten we were in -sight of the _Isle of Man_, which is a fine island with bold hills -and cliffs. A little before twelve we reached the point of the bay, -on which is the town of _Douglas_, very prettily situated, with a -picturesque castle near the lighthouse, on the extreme point of the -bay. We stopped off here for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour,--the -rocks were covered with people. From _Douglas_ to _Ramsay Bay_ the -hills and cliffs are high and bold; though _Ramsay_ itself is low. - -For about two hours we were out of sight of land, and I was below -writing. When I came on deck at three o’clock the Scotch coast was -quite close; the _Mull of Galloway_, and then _Wigtownshire_. Albert -declared he saw the Irish coast, but I could not descry it. At five -we came in sight of _Loch Ryan_, and saw, to the left, _Ailsa Craig_ -rising more than 1,000 feet perpendicularly from the sea. _Loch Ryan_ -is very fine, and the hills and glens are lovely, particularly little -_Glen Finnart_. The loch is very large, and the hills here are very -high and wooded. The little town is called _Stranraer_. - - - _Tuesday, August 17._ - -At six o’clock we began to move. A beautiful morning. At about -eight we were close to the _Ailsa Rock_ or _Craig_, the formation -of which is very curious. There were thousands and thousands of -birds,--gannets,--on the rock, and we fired a gun off three times in -order to bring them in reach of a shot--Albert and Charles tried, but -in vain. We next came in sight of the beautiful _Isle of Arran_. The -finest point is when you are before the _Holy Island_, and in sight of -the _Goatfell_ range of mountains. The highest is about 2,800 feet; -they are peculiarly fine from their bold pointed outlines. Before them -is _Lamlash_. After passing _Holy Island_ we came to _Brodick Bay_, -which is beautiful, with high hills and a glen; in front of which, and -surrounded by wood, is the castle which Lord Douglas is building. Not -long after this we came in sight of the _Isle of Bute_, and entered the -_Clyde_, the view of which from Mr. Stuart’s and Lord Bute’s property -is beautiful: high wooded banks, the river opening out and widening, -surrounded by the distant mountains. A small place to the right called -_Largs_ is very prettily situated. - -At half-past twelve we reached _Greenock_, the port of _Glasgow_. The -shore and the ships were crowded with people, there being no less (as -I since learnt) than thirty-nine steamers, over-filled with people, -which almost all followed us! Such a thing never was seen. Add to these -steamers boats and ships of all descriptions, moving in all directions; -but not getting out of the way! We, however, got safe on board the -“Fairy,” and steamed up the _Clyde_; it was hazy, and we could not -see the distance well. We passed the small town of _Port Glasgow_, -and about one o’clock were at _Dumbarton Castle_. Its situation is -very fine, the rock rising straight out of the river, the mountains -all round, and the town of _Dumbarton_ behind it, making it very -picturesque. We landed just below the Castle, and went with Charles and -the children in a carriage to the fort. There was a great crowd, but -excellent order kept. We went to the battery, but had to mount many -steps to get to it. Wallace was confined here; and it was one of the -last castles which held out for Mary Queen of Scots. From the battery -there is a very extensive view of the _Clyde_ and _Dumbarton_, and we -ought to have been able to see _Ben Lomond_; but it was in mist. - -We got back to the “Fairy” by half-past two, and returned to -_Greenock_, escorted by nineteen steamers. Steamed past _Greenock_, and -went on towards _Loch Long_, passing _Roseneath_ to the right, where -the present Duke and Duchess of Argyll live. _Loch Long_ is indeed -splendid, 15 miles in length, surrounded by grand hills, with such -beautiful outlines, and very green--all so different from the eastern -part of _Scotland_--the loch winding along most beautifully, so as to -seem closed at times. Charles said it reminded him of _Switzerland_ and -the _Tyrol_. The finest point of _Loch Long_ is looking towards _Loch -Goil_. We had a very good sight of the mountain called _The Cobbler_; -the top of which resembles a man sitting and mending his shoe! At the -end of the loch we got a glimpse of _Ben Lomond_, and were, in fact, -very near _Loch Lomond_. - -We returned as we came. There was no sun, and once or twice a little -mist; but still it was beautiful. We went on to _Rothsay_, which we -reached at eight o’clock, and immediately went on board the “Victoria -and Albert,” greatly tired but much amused and interested. - -The children enjoy everything extremely, and bear the novelty and -excitement wonderfully. The people cheered the “Duke of Rothsay”[19] -very much, and also called for a cheer for the “Princess of Great -Britain.” Everywhere the good Highlanders are very enthusiastic. -_Rothsay_ is a pretty little town, built round a fine bay, with hills -in the distance, and a fine harbour. When we went on deck after dinner, -we found the whole town brilliantly illuminated, with every window lit -up, which had a very pretty effect. - -[19] A title belonging to the eldest son of the Sovereign of Scotland, -and therefore held by the Prince of Wales as eldest son of the Queen, -the representative of the ancient Kings of Scotland. - - - _Wednesday, August 18._ - -A bright fresh morning, the hills slightly tipped with clouds. At eight -o’clock we all went on board the “Fairy,” and went up the _Kyles of -Bute_, which, as you advance, become very fine, the hills lying so -curiously one behind the other, sometimes apparently closing up all -outlet. - -[Illustration] - -We saw _Arran_ to the left, looking very grand in the distance. We have -been turning about a good deal since yesterday, for we went by _Arran_ -and _Holy Island_, and then left _Little_ and _Great Cumbray_ to our -left, and went up to _Dumbarton_ and back, and on to _Loch Long_, and -then to _Rothsay_, leaving _Arran_ to our left; then, after passing -_Arran_, we entered _Loch Fyne_. I, however, had a headache, and was -obliged to lie down below, and only came on deck again when we were -within an hour of _Inverary_; where the lake widens, and the hills on -either side are very green and undulating, but not very high. - -The approach to _Inverary_ is splendid; the loch is very wide; straight -before you a fine range of mountains splendidly lit up,--green, pink, -and lilac; to the left the little town of _Inverary_; and above it, -surrounded by pine woods, stands the Castle of _Inverary_, square, with -turrets at the corners. - -Our reception was in the true Highland fashion. The Duke and Duchess of -Argyll (dear Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower), the Duchess of Sutherland, -Lord Stafford, Lady Caroline Leveson Gower, and the Blantyres received -us at the landing-place, which was all ornamented with heather. The -Celtic Society, including Campbell of Islay, his two sons (one grown -up and the other a very pretty little boy), with a number of his men, -and several other Campbells, were all drawn up near to the carriage. We -got into a carriage with the two Duchesses, Charles and the Duke being -on the box (we had left the children on board the “Fairy”), and took a -beautiful drive amongst magnificent trees, and along a glen where we -saw _Ben Sheerar_, &c. The weather was particularly fine, and we were -much struck by the extreme beauty of _Inverary_--presenting as it does -such a combination of magnificent timber, with high mountains, and a -noble lake. - -The pipers walked before the carriage, and the Highlanders on either -side, as we approached the house. Outside stood the Marquis of Lorn, -just two years old, a dear, white, fat, fair little fellow with reddish -hair, but very delicate features, like both his father and mother: he -is such a merry, independent little child. He had a black velvet dress -and jacket, with a “sporran,” scarf, and Highland bonnet. We lunched at -two with our hosts; the Highland gentlemen standing with halberds in -the room. We sent for our children, who arrived during luncheon time. -We left _Inverary_ before three, and took the children with us in the -carriage. The Argylls, the Duchess of Sutherland, and the others, -accompanied us on board the “Fairy,” where we took leave of them. - -The light on the hills was beautiful as we steamed down _Loch Fyne_. At -five we reached _Lochgilp_, and all landed at _Lochgilphead_, a small -village where there were numbers of people, and, amongst others, Sir -John P. Orde, who lent his carriage and was extremely civil. We and our -people drove through the little village to the _Crinan Canal_, where we -entered a most magnificently decorated barge, drawn by three horses, -ridden by postilions in scarlet. We glided along very smoothly, and the -views of the hills--the range of _Cruachan_--were very fine indeed; -but the eleven locks we had to go through--(a very curious process, -first passing several by rising, and then others by going down)--were -tedious, and instead of the passage lasting one hour-and-a-half, it -lasted upwards of two hours and a half, therefore it was nearly eight -o’clock before we reached _Loch Crinan_. We instantly went on board -the “Victoria and Albert,” but it was too late to proceed to _Oban_; -we had, therefore, to lengthen our voyage by a day, and spent the -night at _Crinan_. It is a very fine spot, hills all round, and, in -the distance, those of the island of _Jura_. The yacht had had a good -passage round the _Mull of Cantire_. We dined with Charles, and went on -deck; and the blaze of the numerous bonfires--the half moon, the stars, -and the extreme stillness of the night--had a charming effect. - - - _Thursday, August 19._ - -A beautiful day. At nine o’clock we left _Crinan_, proceeding to the -right, up splendid passes, with myriads of islands, and such enchanting -views, that I cannot enumerate them. We passed first up the _Sound -of Jura_, where numbers of people met us in small boats, decorated -with little flags; then up the _Pass of Kerrera_ to _Oban_, one of -the finest spots we have seen, with the ruins of the old _Castle of -Dunolly_ and a range of high mountains in the distance. To the left, -after leaving _Oban_, we saw the _Isle of Kerrera_, and to the right -_Dunstaffnage Castle_, whence came the famous stone which supports the -“Coronation Chair,” in which the sovereigns are crowned at _Westminster -Abbey_. Alexander II. is said to be buried here. We passed close by the -flat rock, called _The Lady’s Rock_, on which a McLean left his wife, -hoping she would be washed away--she was saved however. - -We then came into the _Sound of Mull_ by _Tobermory_, a small place -prettily situated, and from thence the views continued beautiful. At -one o’clock we were in sight of the _Isles of Rum_, _Eig_ and _Muck_ -(rather large islands, which Lord Salisbury bought a few years ago). -Next we passed the long, flat, curious islands of _Coll_ and _Tiree_. -The inhabitants of these islands have, unhappily, been terrible -sufferers during the last winter from famine. A little further on we -saw, to our right, the _Treshinish Isles_, very curiously-shaped rocks: -one is called _The Dutchman’s Cap_, and has the most strange shape, -thus-- - -[Illustration] - -At three we anchored close before _Staffa_, and immediately got into -the barge with Charles, the children, and the rest of our people, -and rowed towards the cave. As we rounded the point, the wonderful -basaltic formation came in sight. The appearance it presents is most -extraordinary; and when we turned the corner to go into the renowned -_Fingal’s Cave_, the effect was splendid, like a great entrance into -a vaulted hall: it looked almost awful as we entered, and the barge -heaved up and down on the swell of the sea. It is very high, but not -longer than 227 feet, and narrower than I expected, being only 40 feet -wide. The sea is immensely deep in the cave. The rocks, under water, -were all colours--pink, blue, and green--which had a most beautiful -and varied effect. It was the first time the British standard with a -Queen of Great Britain, and her husband and children, had ever entered -_Fingal’s Cave_, and the men gave three cheers, which sounded very -impressive there. We backed out, and then went on a little further to -look at the other cave, not of basaltic formation, and at the point -called _The Herdsman_. The swell was beginning to get up, and perhaps -an hour later we could not have gone in. - -We returned to the yacht, but Albert and Charles landed again at -_Staffa_. They returned in three-quarters of an hour, and we then went -on to _Iona_; here Albert and Charles landed, and were absent an hour. -I and the ladies sketched. We saw from the yacht the ruins of the old -cathedral of _St. Oran_. When Albert and Charles returned, they said -the ruins were very curious, there had been two monasteries there, and -fine old crosses and tombs of ancient kings were still to be seen. I -must see it some other time. On Albert’s return we went on again, and -reached _Tobermory_ at nine. The place was all illuminated. - - - _Friday, August 20._ - -A wet morning when we rose at half-past seven, and it was pouring with -rain when we left _Tobermory_ at half-past eight. I went down, and drew -and painted. It cleared up about half-past ten, and I came on deck. -The scenery in _Loch Linnhe_ was magnificent--such beautiful mountains. -From _Loch Linnhe_ we entered _Loch Eil_, and passed the entrance -of _Loch Leven_ to the right, at the end of which is _Glencoe_, so -famous for its beautiful scenery and for the horrible massacre of the -Macdonalds, in William III.’s time. - -A little before one we arrived at _Fort William_, a very small place. -The afternoon was very bright, and the scenery fine. After luncheon -Albert and Charles set off in the “Fairy” to see _Glencoe_. They -returned at twenty minutes past seven, and Albert thought _Glencoe_ was -very fine, though not quite as much so as he had expected. They had -driven in an extraordinary carriage, with seats for thirty. The people, -who recognized Albert, were so loyal that they took the horses out and -insisted on drawing the carriage. - -The evening was excessively cold and showery. - -I am quite sorry we shall have to leave our yacht to-morrow, in which -we have been so comfortably housed, and that this delightful voyage -and tour among the Western Lochs and Isles is at an end--they are -so beautiful,--and so full of poetry and romance, traditions, and -historical associations. - - - _Ardverikie, Loch Laggan, Saturday, August 21._ - -Alas! a very wet morning. We were ready long before nine o’clock, but -had to wait, as our carriages were not ready. At last we all landed -at _Fort William_, where there was a great gathering of Highlanders, -in their different tartans, with Lord Lovat and Mr. Stuart Mackenzie -at their head. We got into our carriage with Charles and the two -children; there was a great crowd to see us off. We went by a very -wild and lonely road, the latter part extremely fine, with mountains -and streams that reminded us of _Glen Tilt_. We changed horses only -once, and came at length in sight of _Loch Laggan_. It is a beautiful -lake (small in comparison to what we have seen) surrounded by very -fine mountains: the road by its side is extremely pretty. We saw Lord -Abercorn’s house of _Ardverikie_ long before we came to it. At _Laggan_ -there is only a small inn, and at the end of the lake, a ferry. Here, -in spite of the pouring rain, were assembled a number of Highlanders, -with Macpherson of Cluny (always called Cluny Macpherson) and three -dear little boys of his, Davidson of Tulloch, and others, with Lord -Abercorn, in full Highland dress. We stepped out of our carriage and -stood upon the floating bridge, and so crossed over in two or three -minutes. We then drove on, in our pony carriages, to _Ardverikie_, and -arrived there in about twenty minutes. It is quite close to the lake, -and the view from the windows, as I now write, though obscured by -rain, is very beautiful, and extremely wild. There is not a village, -house, or cottage within four or five miles: one can only get to it by -the ferry, or by rowing across the lake. The house is a comfortable -shooting-lodge, built of stone, with many nice rooms in it. Stags’ -horns are placed along the outside and in the passages; and the walls -of the drawing-room and ante-room are ornamented with beautiful -drawings of stags, by Landseer. - -There is little to say of our stay at _Ardverikie_; the country is very -fine, but the weather was most dreadful. - -On the 28th, about five o’clock, Albert drove me out across the ferry, -along the _Kingussie_ road, and from here the scenery was splendid: -high bold hills, with a good deal of wood; glens, with the _Pattock_, -and a small waterfall; the meadows here and there, with people making -hay, and cottages sprinkled sparingly about, reminded us much of -_Thüringen_. We drove to the small farm, where Colonel Macpherson now -lives, called _Strathmashie_, and back again, 16 miles in all. We were -delighted with the scenery, which is singularly beautiful, wild and -romantic,--with so much fine wood about it, which greatly enhances the -beauty of a landscape. - - - _Thursday, September 16._ - -Albert left at six this morning to go to _Inverness_ and see the -_Caledonian Canal_. - - - _Friday, September 17._ - -At two o’clock I left _Ardverikie_ with the children, and reached _Fort -William_ at half-past six, where I had the happiness of finding Albert -on board the yacht. All had gone off well; but the weather had been -very bad. Albert said _Dochfour_ beautiful; the house new and very -elegant, with a fine garden, and Mr. and Lady Georgiana Baillie very -pleasant people. - -Albert had to go to _Inverness_, and to stay for a ball that was held -there; and he was everywhere extremely well received. This morning he -saw the _Falls of Foyers_, which, he tells me, are very grand indeed; -and of a great height; and he says that the _Caledonian Canal_ is a -most remarkable work. - - - _Loch Ryan, Saturday, September 18._ - -At five o’clock we left _Fort William_. Rather a fine morning; but -very squally, and the sea rough, even where we were. When we came on -deck, we were close to the _Isle of Jura_, which has such a fine, bold -outline. We went on to _Loch Crinan_, where we got into the barge: -here it was very rough and pouring with rain, so unlike the beautiful -evening when we were here a month ago. We landed at _Crinan_. Mr. -Malcolm, whose castle is just opposite, received us there, and we -entered the canal boat at ten. We proceeded more quickly than the last -time; the people kept running along as before, and there was a piper at -each lock. It rained almost the whole time. We reached _Lochgilphead_ -at twelve, in pouring rain, and embarked on board the “Black Eagle.” -The yacht had again to go round the _Mull of Cantire_ and meet us at -_Campbeltown_. What a contrast to the weather we had when we came! - -We got under weigh, and proceeded by _Kilbrannan Sound_ and _Arran_. -We went on deck for a little while, but were driven below by the -rain; later, however, it was possible to keep on deck. We reached -_Campbeltown_, a small and not pretty place, at the foot of _Cantire_, -at twenty minutes to five. About half an hour after we arrived the -yacht came in, with the “Garland,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge,” and we -immediately went on board. They had had a very bad passage, and -Captain Crispin said he was very glad that we had not been on board -the “Victoria and Albert.” This rather alarmed us for the next day’s -voyage, the more so as the evening was squally and the sky very -unpromising. There was a long consultation as to what was to be done, -and at last it was decided that we should start at four in the morning, -and if it were very rough, we should either run into _Loch Ryan_, the -_Mull of Galloway_, the _Bay of Ramsay_, or into _Douglas_ in the _Isle -of Man_. - - - _Loch Ryan, Sunday, September 19._ - -We set off at four o’clock, the yacht rolling considerably; but it -was quite bearable; however, at seven they came to shut down the -port-holes, expecting a heavy sea, and Lord Adolphus saw Albert, -who had just got up, and said it would be very rough; upon which it -was decided to put back a little way, and to go into _Loch Ryan_; we -accordingly did so, and anchored there at half-past eight;--such a -dreary rainy day--one could hardly recognize what was so fine when we -were last in here. - -Both now, and the time before when we were in _Loch Ryan_, Lord Orkney -very civilly sent us game and all sorts of things. - -At twelve o’clock Lord Adolphus read the short sea-service. We -then talked over our voyage, and what could be done;--the day was -very wretched,--pouring with rain and blowing hard. It was at last -decided to start again at three, and get this evening to the _Mull -of Galloway_, which would only take us three hours, though it would -probably be rough. As soon as we were out of the loch the yacht began -to pitch, and the sea was dreadfully rough. I was very ill. Albert, -however, stood it perfectly, and the children very tolerably. Presently -we came in sight of the _Mull of Galloway_, a great rock with a -lighthouse on it;--and this was our last glimpse of dear _Scotland_. - - - _Monday, September 20._ - -At six o’clock we got under weigh, and after considerable “rockings,” -which lasted for nearly two hours, we were near the _Isle of Man_, in -smooth water, and at half-past eight anchored in _Ramsay Bay_. - -Albert went on shore, and meantime the Bishop of Sodor and Man, with -others, came on board. Albert returned at twelve. At one o’clock we -started again. We had to go slowly at first, as our paddle-wheel again -got wrong, and because we should otherwise have arrived before we were -expected. - -We anchored at seven in _Fleetwood Harbour_; the entrance was extremely -narrow and difficult. We were lashed close to the pier, to prevent our -being turned by the tide; and when I went on deck there was a great -commotion, such running and calling, and pulling of ropes, &c. It was a -cheerless evening, blowing hard. - - - _Tuesday, September 21._ - -At ten o’clock we landed, and proceeded by rail to _London_. - - - - -_LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS_, - -1848 TO 1861. - - - Land of brown heath and shaggy wood, - Land of the mountain and the flood, - Land of my sires! what mortal hand - Can e’er untie the filial band - That knits me to thy rugged strand! - Still, as I view each well-known scene, - Think what is now, and what hath been, - Seems as, to me, of all bereft, - Sole friends thy woods and streams are left; - And thus I love them better still, - Even in extremity of ill. - - _The Lay of the Last Minstrel._ - -[Illustration: BALMORAL.--THE OLD CASTLE. - -_After a Sketch by Wild._] - - - - -FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BALMORAL. - - - _Balmoral, Friday, September 8, 1848._ - -We arrived at _Balmoral_ at a quarter to three. It is a pretty little -castle in the old Scottish style. There is a picturesque tower and -garden in front, with a high wooded hill; at the back there is wood -down to the _Dee_; and the hills rise all around. - -There is a nice little hall, with a billiard-room; next to it is the -dining-room. Upstairs (ascending by a good broad staircase) immediately -to the right, and above the dining-room, is our sitting-room (formerly -the drawing-room), a fine large room--next to which is our bed-room, -opening into a little dressing-room which is Albert’s. Opposite, down -a few steps, are the children’s and Miss Hildyard’s three rooms. The -ladies live below, and the gentlemen upstairs. - -We lunched almost immediately, and at half-past four we walked out, -and went up to the top of the wooded hill opposite our windows, where -there is a cairn, and up which there is a pretty winding path. The -view from here, looking down upon the house, is charming. To the left -you look towards the beautiful hills surrounding _Loch-na-Gar_, and -to the right, towards _Ballater_, to the glen (or valley) along which -the _Dee_ winds, with beautiful wooded hills, which reminded us very -much of the _Thüringerwald_. It was so calm, and so solitary, it did -one good as one gazed around; and the pure mountain air was most -refreshing. All seemed to breathe freedom and peace, and to make one -forget the world and its sad turmoils. - -The scenery is wild, and yet not desolate; and everything looks much -more prosperous and cultivated than at _Laggan_. Then the soil is -delightfully dry. We walked beside the _Dee_, a beautiful, rapid -stream, which is close behind the house. The view of the hills towards -_Invercauld_ is exceedingly fine. - -When I came in at half-past six, Albert went out to try his luck with -some stags which lay quite close in the woods, but he was unsuccessful. -They come down of an evening quite near to the house. - - - - -FIRST ASCENT OF LOCH-NA-GAR. - - - _Saturday, September 16, 1848._ - -At half-past nine o’clock Albert and I set off in a postchaise, -and drove to the bridge in the wood of _Balloch Buie_, about five -miles from _Balmoral_, where our ponies and people were. Here we -mounted, and were attended by a keeper of Mr. Farquharson’s as guide, -Macdonald[20]--who, with his shooting-jacket, and in his kilt, looked -a picture--Grant[21] on a pony, with our luncheon in two baskets, -and Batterbury[22] on another pony. We went through that beautiful -wood for about a mile, and then turned and began to ascend gradually, -the view getting finer and finer; no road, but not bad ground--moss, -heather, and stones. Albert saw some deer when we had been out about -three-quarters of an hour, and ran off to stalk them, while I rested; -but he arrived just a minute too late. He waited for me on the other -side of a stony little burn, which I crossed on my pony, after our -faithful Highlanders had moved some stones and made it easier. We then -went on a little way, and I got off and walked a bit, and afterwards -remounted; Macdonald leading my pony. The view of _Ben-na-Bhourd_, and -indeed of all around, was very beautiful; but as we rose higher we saw -mist over _Loch-na-Gar_. Albert left me to go after ptarmigan, and went -on with Grant, while the others remained with me, taking the greatest -care of me. Macdonald is a good honest man, and was indefatigable, and -poor Batterbury was very anxious also. - -[20] A Jäger of the Prince’s, who came from Fort Augustus in the west: -he was remarkably tall and handsome. The poor man died of consumption -at Windsor, in May, 1860. His eldest son was Attaché to the British -Legation in Japan. He died in 1866. The third son, Archie, is Jäger to -the Prince of Wales, and was for a year with the beloved Prince. - -[21] Head-keeper. He had been nearly twenty years with Sir Robert -Gordon, nine as keeper; he was born in Braemar, in the year 1810. He -is an excellent man, most trustworthy, of singular shrewdness and -discretion, and most devotedly attached to the Prince and myself. -He has a fine intelligent countenance. The Prince was very fond of -him. He has six sons,--the second, Alick, is wardrobe-man to our son -Leopold: all are good, well-disposed lads, and getting on well in their -different occupations. His mother, a fine, hale, old woman of eighty -years, “stops” in a small cottage which the Prince built for her in our -village. He, himself, lives in a pretty Lodge called Croft, a mile from -Balmoral, which the Prince built for him. - -[22] A groom (now dead some years) who followed me in his ordinary -dress, with thin boots and gaiters, and seemed anything but happy. He -hardly ever attended me after this. - -I saw ptarmigan get up, and Albert fire--he then disappeared from -my sight, and I rode on. It became cold and misty when we were on -_Loch-na-Gar_. In half an hour, or rather less, Albert rejoined me with -two ptarmigan, having come up by a shorter way. Here it was quite soft, -easy walking, and we looked down on two small lochs called _Na Nian_, -which were very striking, being so high up in the hills. Albert was -tired, and remounted his pony; I had also been walking a little way. -The ascent commenced, and with it a very thick fog, and when we had -nearly reached the top of _Loch-na-Gar_, the mist drifted in thick -clouds so as to hide everything not within one hundred yards of us. -Near the peak (the fine point of the mountain which is seen so well -from above Grant’s house) we got off and walked, and climbed up some -steep stones, to a place where we found a seat in a little nook, and -had some luncheon. It was just two o’clock, so we had taken four hours -going up. - -But, alas! nothing whatever to be seen; and it was cold, and wet, and -cheerless. At about twenty minutes after two we set off on our way -downwards, the wind blowing a hurricane, and the mist being like rain, -and everything quite dark with it. Bowman (Mr. Farquharson’s keeper) -and Macdonald, who preceded us, looked like ghosts. We walked some way -till I was quite breathless, and remounted my pony, well wrapped up -in plaids; and we came down by the same path that Albert had come up, -which is shorter, but steeper; the pony went delightfully; but the mist -made me feel cheerless. - -Albert kept ahead a little while for ptarmigan, but he gave it up -again. When we had gone on about an hour and a quarter, or an-hour-and- -a-half, the fog disappeared like magic, and all was sunshine below, -about one thousand feet from the top I should say. Most provoking!--and -yet one felt happy to see sunshine and daylight again. - -The view, as one descends, overlooking _Invercauld_ and the wood which -is called _Balloch Buie_, is most lovely. We saw some deer in the wood -below. We rode on till after we passed the burn, and had nearly got to -the wood. We came another way down, by a much rougher path; and then, -from the road in the wood, we walked up to the _Falls of the Garbhalt_, -which are beautiful. The rocks are very grand, and the view from the -little bridge, and also from a seat a little lower down, is extremely -pretty. We found our carriages in the road, and drove home by six -o’clock. - -We met Captain Gordon, and then Lord John Russell and Sir James Clark. -They had come to look after us, and when we got home we found the two -ladies at the door waiting most anxiously for us. - - - - -A “DRIVE” IN THE BALLOCH BUIE. - - - _September 18, 1848._ - -At a quarter-past ten o’clock we set off in a postchaise with Bertie, -and drove beyond the house of Mr. Farquharson’s keeper in the _Balloch -Buie_. We then mounted our ponies, Bertie riding Grant’s pony on the -deer-saddle, and being led by a gillie, Grant walking by his side. -Macdonald and several gillies were with us, and we were preceded by -Bowman and old Arthur Farquharson, a deer-stalker of Invercauld’s. -They took us up a beautiful path winding through the trees and heather -in the _Balloch Buie_; but when we had got about a mile or more they -discovered deer. A “council of war” was held in a whisper, and we -turned back and went the whole way down again, and rode along to the -keeper’s lodge, where we turned up the glen immediately below _Craig -Daign_, through a beautiful part of the wood, and went on along the -track, till we came to the foot of the craig, where we all dismounted. - -We scrambled up an almost perpendicular place to where there was a -little _box_, made of hurdles and interwoven with branches of fir and -heather, about five feet in height. There we seated ourselves with -Bertie, Macdonald lying in the heather near us, watching and quite -concealed; some had gone round to beat, and others again were at a -little distance. We sat quite still, and sketched a little; I doing -the landscape and some trees, Albert drawing Macdonald as he lay -there. This lasted for nearly an hour, when Albert fancied he heard a -distant sound, and, in a few minutes, Macdonald whispered that he saw -stags, and that Albert should wait and take a steady aim. We then heard -them coming past. Albert did not look over the box, but through it, -and fired through the branches, and then again over the box. The deer -retreated; but Albert felt certain he had hit a stag. He ran up to the -keepers, and at that moment they called from below that they “had got -him,” and Albert ran on to see. I waited for a bit; but soon scrambled -on with Bertie and Macdonald’s help; and Albert joined me directly, -and we all went down and saw a magnificent stag, “a royal,” which had -dropped, soon after Albert had hit him, at one of the men’s feet. The -sport was successful, and every one was delighted,--Macdonald and the -keepers in particular;--the former saying, “that it was her Majesty’s -coming out that had brought the good luck.” I was supposed to have “a -lucky foot,” of which the Highlanders “think a great deal.” We walked -down to the place we last came up, got into the carriage, and were home -by half-past two o’clock. - - - - -The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach. - - - _August 30, 1849._ - -After writing our letters, we set off on our ponies, with Miss -Dawson,[23] Macdonald, Grant, Batterbury, and Hamis Coutts; Hamis -is Gaelic for James, and is pronounced “Hamish.” The road has been -improved since last year, and though it is still very rough, there are -no fords to pass, nor real difficulties any longer. We rode the whole -way, and Albert only walked the last two miles. He took a Gaelic lesson -during our ride, asking Macdonald, who speaks it with great purity, -many words, and making him talk to Jemmie Coutts. Albert has already -picked up many words: but it is a very difficult language, for it is -pronounced in a totally different way from that in which it is written. - -[23] Now Hon. Mrs. Parnell. - -[Illustration: THE SHIEL OF ALT-NA-GIUTHASACH. - -_After a Sketch by the Queen._] - -We arrived at our little “bothie” at two o’clock, and were amazed at -the transformation. There are two huts, and to the one in which we live -a wooden addition has been made. We have a charming little dining-room, -sitting-room, bed-room, and dressing-room, all _en suite_; and there -is a little room where Caroline Dawson (the Maid of Honour) sleeps, -one for her maid, and a little pantry. In the other house, which is -only a few yards distant, is the kitchen, where the people generally -sit, a small room where the servants dine, and another, which is a -sort of store-room, and a loft above in which the men sleep. Margaret -French (my maid), Caroline’s maid, Löhlein[24] (Albert’s valet), a -cook, Shackle[25] (a footman), and Macdonald, are the only people with -us in the house, old John Gordon and his wife excepted. Our rooms are -delightfully papered, the ceilings as well as walls, and very nicely -furnished. We lunched as soon as we arrived, and at three walked down -(about twenty minutes’ walk) to the loch called “Muich;” which some say -means “darkness” or “sorrow.” Here we found a large boat, into which -we all got, and Macdonald, Duncan, Grant, and Coutts rowed; old John -Gordon and two others going in another boat with the net. They rowed up -to the head of the loch, to where the _Muich_ runs down out of the _Dhu -Loch_, which is on the other side. - -[24] This faithful and trusty valet nursed his dear master most -devotedly through his sad illness in December, 1861, and is now always -with me as my personal groom of the chambers or valet. I gave him a -house near Windsor Castle, where he resides when the Court are there. -He is a native of Coburg. His father has been for fifty years Förster -at Fülbach, close to Coburg. - -[25] Who was very active and efficient. He is now a Page. - -The scenery is beautiful here, so wild and grand,--real severe Highland -scenery, with trees in the hollow. We had various scrambles in and -out of the boat and along the shore, and saw three hawks, and caught -seventy trout. I wish an artist could have been there to sketch the -scene; it was so picturesque--the boat, the net, and the people in -their kilts in the water, and on the shore. In going back, Albert rowed -and Macdonald steered; and the lights were beautiful. - -We came home at a quarter-past seven. At eight we dined; Löhlein, -Macdonald, and Shackle waiting on us. - -After dinner we played with Caroline Dawson at whist with dummy, and -afterwards walked round the little garden. The silence and solitude, -only interrupted by the waving of the fir-trees, were very solemn and -striking. - - - - -A BEAT IN THE ABERGELDIE WOODS. - - - _September 3, 1849._ - -At a quarter-past eleven we drove (the three gentlemen going in another -carriage) to the road along which we went with Lord Portman the other -day, and up to a small path, where I mounted my pony, Albert and the -others walking. We came to _Geannachoil_, and Albert was much pleased -with the splendid view. The lights were most beautiful, but the heat -was overpowering, and the sun burning - -We turned to the right when out on the moors, where I got off and -walked; and we seated ourselves behind a large stone, no one but -Macdonald with us, who loaded the guns, and gave notice when anything -was to be seen, as he lay upon the ground. The gentlemen were below -in the road; the wood was beat, but nothing came, so we walked on and -came down a beautiful thickly-wooded glen; and after a good deal of -scrambling to get there, and to get up one side of the glen, we sat -down again. We then scrambled over to the opposite side, where we again -concealed ourselves; in this beat Albert shot a roe, and I think would -have shot more had they not been turned back by the sudden appearance -of an old woman who, looking like a witch, came along through the wood -with two immense crutches, and disturbed the whole thing. Albert killed -the roe just as she was coming along, and the shot startled her very -much; she was told to come down, which she did, and sat below in the -glen, motionless, having covered her head with her handkerchief. When -two of the beaters came down and were told to take up the roe, they -first saw the old woman, and started, and stared with horror--which -was very amusing to see. I rode a little way afterwards, and then we -seated ourselves behind a bush, in the rear of the wood, close to the -distillery; but this beat brought nothing. Albert killed a young black -cock before we came to the second beat. We were home at a quarter-past -three o’clock. - - - - -VISIT TO THE DHU LOCH, &c. - - - _September 11, 1849._ - -The morning was very fine. I heard the children repeat some poetry in -German, and then at ten o’clock we set off with Lady Douro[26] in our -carriage, and drove on beyond _Inch Bobbard_, changing horses near -_Birkhall_, and stopping for a moment at the _Linn of Muich_; here we -found the ponies, which we mounted, forded the river, and were almost -immediately at the hut. We stopped there only for an instant, and -remounted our ponies directly; Grant, Macdonald (who led my pony the -whole time, and was extremely useful and attentive), Jemmie Coutts -(leading Lady Douro’s pony), Charlie Coutts, and John Brown going with -us: old John Gordon leading the way. It was half-past twelve when we -began ascending the hill immediately behind the house, and proceeded -along over the hills, to a great height, whence the view was very fine, -quite overhanging the loch, and commanding an extensive view of _Glen -Muich_ beyond on the opposite side. The road got worse and worse. It -was particularly bad when we had to pass the _Burn of the Glassalt_, -which falls into the loch, and was very full. There had been so much -rain, that the burns and rivers were very full, and the ground quite -soft. We rode over the _Strone_ _Hill_, the wind blowing dreadfully -hard when we came to the top. Albert walked almost from the first, and -shot a hare and a grouse; he put up a good many of them. We walked to a -little hollow immediately above the _Dhu Loch_, and at half-past three -seated ourselves there, and had some very welcome luncheon. The loch is -only a mile in length, and very wild; the hills, which are very rocky -and precipitous, rising perpendicularly from it. - -[26] Now Duchess of Wellington. - -In about half an hour we began our journey homewards. We came straight -down beside the _Muich_, which falls in the most beautiful way over the -rocks and stones in the glen. We rode down, and only had to get off -to cross the _Glassalt_, which was an awkward ford to scramble over. -The road was rough, but certainly far less soft and disagreeable than -the one we came by. I rode “Lochnagar” at first, but changed him for -Colonel Gordon’s pony, as I thought he took fright at the bogs; but -Colonel Gordon’s was broken-winded, and struggled very much in the soft -ground, which was very disagreeable. - -We were only an hour coming down to the boat. The evening was very -fine, but it blew very hard on the lake and the men could not pull, -and I got so alarmed that I begged to land, and Lady Douro was of my -opinion that it was much better to get out. We accordingly landed, and -rode home along a sort of sheep-path on the side of the lake, which -took us three-quarters of an hour. It was very rough and very narrow, -for the hill rises abruptly from the lake; we had seven hundred feet -above us, and I suppose one hundred feet below. However, we arrived -at the hut quite safely at twenty minutes to seven, thankful to have -got through all our difficulties and adventures, which are always very -pleasant to look back upon. - -We dined a little before eight with Lady Douro, and played two rubbers -of whist with her. - -Old John Gordon amused Albert by saying, in speaking of the bad road we -had gone, “It’s something steep and something rough,” and “this is the -only best,” meaning that it was _very_ bad,--which was a characteristic -reply. - - - - -ASCENT OF BEN-NA-BHOURD. - - - _September 6, 1850._ - -At half-past ten o’clock we set off with Lady Douro and Ernest -Leiningen,[27] and drove to _Invercauld_, about three-quarters of a -mile beyond the house, where we found our people and ponies, together -with Arthur Farquharson, Shewin, and others. We then walked a little -way, after which we mounted our ponies and began the ascent towards -_Ben-na-Bhourd_; Macdonald leading my pony, good little “Lochnagar,” -and James Coutts Lady Douro’s. There is an excellent path, almost a -narrow road, made up to within the last two miles and a half, which -are very steep and rocky. The scenery is beautiful. We first rode up -a glen (where a stone of the house in which Finla, the first of the -Farquharsons, was born, is still shown,) through which the _Glassalt_ -runs. Further on comes a very narrow, rocky, and precipitous glen, -called the _Sluggan_, said to mean the “swallow,” or “swallowing.” -Some little distance after this the country opens widely before you, -with _Ben-na-Bhourd_ rising towards the left; and then you enter the -_Forest of Mar_, which the Duke of Leeds rents from Lord Fife. There -is a very pretty little shooting-box, called _Sluggan Cottage_, which -is half way from _Invercauld_ to the top of _Ben-na-Bhourd_. Below -this is the _Quoich_, which we forded. The last bit of the real road -is a long steep ascent on the brow of a hill, the name of which means -the “Tooth’s craig.” (Macdonald translated all the names for us.) The -ascent, after the path ceases, is very stony; in fact, nothing but bare -granite. Albert had walked a great deal, and we ladies got off after -it became more uneven, and when we were no longer very far from the -top. We came upon a number of “cairngorms,” which we all began picking -up, and found some very pretty ones. At the top, which is perfectly -flat, the ground is entirely composed of stones or wet swampy moss, -and the granite seems to have stopped just a few feet below. We sat -down at a cairn and had our luncheon. The wind was extremely cold, but -whenever we got out of it, the air was very hot. The view from the -top was magnificent and most extensive: _Ben-na-Bhourd_ is 3,940 feet -high. We saw _Ben-y-Ghlo_ very clearly, _Cairngorm_ and _Ben Muich -Dhui_ quite close but in another direction; the _Moray Firth_, and, -through the glass, ships even could be seen; and on the other side rose -_Loch-na-Gar_, still the jewel of all the mountains here. - -[27] Our nephew. - -After luncheon we began our downward progress, and walked the whole of -the steep part till we reached the path; we came down very quickly, -my pony making great haste, though he had half a mind to kick. Albert -found some beautiful little rock crystals in the _Sluggan_, and walked -the remainder of the way; we ladies left our horses about a quarter of -a mile before we met the carriage. The whole distance from _Invercauld_ -to the top of _Ben-na-Bhourd_ is nine miles, so we must have been at -least 18 miles riding and walking. It has been a delightful expedition. -It was six o’clock when we reached the carriage, and we were home at a -little past seven. - - - - -THE GATHERING. - - - _September 12, 1850._ - -We lunched early, and then went at half-past two o’clock, with the -children and all our party, except Lady Douro, to the Gathering at the -_Castle of Braemar_, as we did last year. The Duffs, Farquharsons, the -Leeds’s, and those staying with them, and Captain Forbes[28] and forty -of his men who had come over from _Strath Don_, were there.[29] Some -of our people were there also. There were the usual games of “putting -the stone,” “throwing the hammer” and “caber,” and racing up the hill -of _Craig Cheunnich_, which was accomplished in less than six minutes -and a half; and we were all much pleased to see our gillie Duncan,[30] -who is an active, good-looking, young man, win. He was far before -the others the whole way. It is a fearful exertion. Mr. Farquharson -brought him up to me afterwards. Eighteen or nineteen started, and it -looked very pretty to see them run off in their different coloured -kilts, with their white shirts (the jackets or doublets they take -off for all the games), and scramble up through the wood, emerging -gradually at the edge of it, and climbing the hill. - -[28] Now Sir Charles Forbes, of Castle Newe. - -[29] A work shortly to be published, entitled _Highlanders of -Scotland_, by Kenneth Macleay, Esq., R.S.A., contains excellent -portraits of some of the men of these and other of the principal -Highland clans, as well as of the Retainers of the Royal Household. - -[30] One of the keepers since 1851: an excellent, intelligent man, much -liked by the Prince. He, like many others, spit blood after running -the race up that steep hill in this short space of time, and he has -never been so strong since. The running up hill has in consequence -been discontinued. He lives in a cottage at the back of Craig Gowan -(commanding a beautiful view) called Robrech, which the Prince built -for him. - -After this we went into the castle, and saw some dancing; the prettiest -was a reel by Mr. Farquharson’s children and some other children, and -the “Ghillie Callum” beautifully danced by John Athole Farquharson, the -fourth son. The twelve children were all there, including the baby, who -is two years old. - -Mama, Charles, and Ernest joined us at _Braemar_. Mama enjoys it all -very much: it is her first visit to _Scotland_. We left after the -dancing. - - - - -SALMON LEISTERING. - - - _September 13, 1850._ - -We walked with Charles, the boys, and Vicky to the river side above the -bridge, where all our tenants were assembled with poles and spears, or -rather “leisters” for catching salmon. They all went into the river, -walking up it, and then back again, poking about under all the stones -to bring fish up to where the men stood with the net. It had a very -pretty effect; about one hundred men wading through the river, some in -kilts with poles and spears, all very much excited. Not succeeding the -first time, we went higher up, and moved to three or four different -places, but did not get any salmon; one or two escaping. Albert stood -on a stone, and Colonel Gordon and Lord James Murray waded about the -whole time. Duncan, in spite of all his exertions yesterday, and having -besides walked to and from the Gathering, was the whole time in the -water. Not far from the laundry there was another trial, and here we -had a great fright. In one place there was a very deep pool, into which -two men very foolishly went, and one could not swim; we suddenly saw -them sink, and in one moment they seemed drowning, though surrounded by -people. There was a cry for help, and a general rush, including Albert, -towards the spot, which frightened me so much, that I grasped Lord -Carlisle’s arm in great agony. However, Dr. Robertson[31] swam in and -pulled the man out, and all was safely over; but it was a horrid moment. - -[31] The gentleman who has had from the beginning the entire management -of our property at Balmoral, &c. He is highly esteemed, and is a -most amiable man, who has carried out all the Prince’s and my wishes -admirably. - -A salmon was speared here by one of the men; after which we walked to -the ford, or quarry, where we were very successful, seven salmon being -caught, some in the net, and some speared. Though Albert stood in the -water some time he caught nothing: but the scene at this beautiful spot -was exciting and picturesque in the extreme. I wished for Landseer’s -pencil. The sun was intensely hot. We did not get back till after three -o’clock, and then took luncheon. The Duchess of Gordon came to see us -afterwards; and while she was still with us, Captain Forbes (who had -asked permission to do so) marched through the grounds with his men, -the pipers going in front. They stopped, and cheered three-times-three, -throwing up their bonnets. They then marched off; and we listened with -pleasure to the distant shouts and the sound of the pibroch. - -We heard afterwards that our men had carried all Captain Forbes’s men -on their backs through the river. They saw the fishing going on, and -came to the water’s edge on the opposite side; and on being greeted by -our people, said they would come over, on which ours went across in one -moment and carried them over--Macdonald at their head carrying Captain -Forbes on his back. This was very courteous, and worthy of chivalrous -times. - - - - -LOCH MUICH. - - - _September 16, 1850._ - -We reached the hut at three o’clock. At half-past four we walked -down to the loch, and got into the boat with our people: Duncan, J. -Brown,[32] P. Coutts,[33] and Leys rowing. They rowed mostly towards -the opposite side, which is very fine indeed, and deeply furrowed by -the torrents, which form glens and corries where birch and alder trees -grow close to the water’s edge. We landed on a sandy spot below a fine -glen, through which flows the _Black Burn_. It was very dry here; but -still very picturesque, with alder-trees and mountain-ash in full fruit -overhanging it. We afterwards landed at our usual place at the head -of the loch, which is magnificent; and rode back. A new road has been -made, and an excellent one it is, winding along above the lake. - -[32] The same who, in 1858, became my regular attendant out of doors -everywhere in the Highlands; who commenced as gillie in 1849, and was -selected by Albert and me to go with my carriage. In 1851 he entered -our service permanently, and began in that year leading my pony, -and advanced step by step by his good conduct and intelligence. His -attention, care, and faithfulness cannot be exceeded; and the state -of my health, which of late years has been sorely tried and weakened, -renders such qualifications most valuable, and indeed, most needful in -a constant attendant upon all occasions. He has since (in December, -1865), most deservedly, been promoted to be an upper servant, and -my permanent personal attendant. He has all the independence and -elevated feelings peculiar to the Highland race, and is singularly -straightforward, simple-minded, kind-hearted, and disinterested; -always ready to oblige; and of a discretion rarely to be met with. -He is now in his fortieth year. His father was a small farmer, who -lived at the Bush on the opposite side to Balmoral. He is the second -of nine brothers,--three of whom have died--two are in Australia and -New Zealand, two are living in the neighbourhood of Balmoral; and the -youngest, Archie (Archiebald) is valet to our son Leopold, and is an -excellent, trustworthy young man. - -[33] Now, since some years, piper to Farquharson of Invercauld. - -The moon rose, and was beautifully reflected on the lake, which, with -its steep green hills, looked lovely. To add to the beauty, poetry, and -wildness of the scene, Coutts played in the boat; the men, who row very -quickly and well now, giving an occasional shout when he played a reel. -It reminded me of Sir Walter Scott’s lines in _The Lady of the Lake_:— - - “Ever, as on they bore, more loud - And louder rung the pibroch proud. - At first the sound, by distance tame, - Mellow’d along the waters came, - And, lingering long by cape and bay, - Wail’d every harsher note away.” - -We were home at a little past seven; and it was so still and pretty -as we entered the wood, and saw the light flickering from our humble -little abode. - - - - -TORCH-LIGHT BALL AT CORRIEMULZIE. - - - _September 10, 1852._ - -We dined at a quarter-past six o’clock in morning gowns, (not ordinary -ones, but such as are worn at a “breakfast,”) and at seven started for -_Corriemulzie_, for a _torch-light ball_ in the open air. I wore a -white bonnet, a grey watered silk, and (according to Highland fashion) -my plaid scarf over my shoulder; and Albert his Highland dress which he -wears every evening. We drove in the postchaise; the two ladies, Lord -Derby and Colonel Gordon following in the other carriage. - -It was a mild though threatening evening, but fortunately it kept fine. -We arrived there at half-past eight, by which time, of course, it was -quite dark. Mr. and Lady Agnes Duff[34] received us at the door, and -then took us at once through the house to the open space where the ball -was, which was hid from our view till the curtains were drawn asunder. -It was really a beautiful and most unusual sight. All the company were -assembled there. A space about one hundred feet in length and sixty -feet in width was boarded, and entirely surrounded by Highlanders -bearing torches, which were placed in sockets, and constantly -replenished. There were seven pipers playing together, Mackay[35] -leading--and they received us with the usual salute and three cheers, -and “Nis! nis! nis!” (pronounced: “Neesh! “neesh! neesh!” the Highland -“Hip! hip! hip!”) and again cheers; after which came a most animated -reel. There were about sixty people, exclusive of the Highlanders, of -whom there were also sixty; all the Highland gentlemen, and any who -were at all Scotch, were in kilts, the ladies in evening dresses. The -company and the Highlanders danced pretty nearly alternately. There -were two or three sword dances. We were upon a _haut pas_, over which -there was a canopy. The whole thing was admirably done, and very well -worth seeing. Albert was delighted with it. I must not omit to mention -a reel danced by eight Highlanders holding torches in their hands. - -[34] Now Earl and Countess of Fife. - -[35] My Piper from the year 1843, considered almost the first in -Scotland, who was recommended by the Marquis of Breadalbane; he -unfortunately went out of his mind in the year 1854, and died in 1855. -A brother of his was Piper to the Duke of Sussex. - -We left at half-past nine o’clock, and were home by a little past -eleven. A long way certainly (14 miles I believe). - - - - -ACCOUNT OF THE NEWS OF THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON’S DEATH. - - - _Alt-na-Giuthasach, Thursday, September 16, 1852._ - -We were startled this morning, at seven o’clock, by a letter from -Colonel Phipps, enclosing a telegraphic despatch with the report, from -the sixth edition of the _Sun_, of the Duke of Wellington’s death the -day before yesterday, which report, however, we did not at all believe. -Would to God that we had been right; and that this day had not been -cruelly saddened in the afternoon. - -We breakfasted with Miss Seymour;[36] and, after writing and reading, -we started at a quarter to eleven with her and our Highland party. -The day was not cold, and would, in fact, have been very fine, if it -had not been for a constant succession of very slight showers, or -clouds coming down. We walked along the loch, the road up to which -is excellent. It has been widened and would admit of a carriage. We -arrived at the _Alt-na-Dearg_, a small burn and fall, which is very -fine and rapid. Up this a winding path has been made, upon which we -rode; though some parts are rather steep for riding. The burn falls -over red granite; and in the ravine grow birch, mountain-ash, and -alder. We got off and walked a good long way on the top of the very -steep hills overhanging the loch, to the _Stron_, and the _Moss of Mon -Elpie_, whence you overlook all the country belonging to Lord Panmure, -_Mount Keen_, the _Ogilvie Hills_, &c. We stopped to rest a little -while--though the walking is excellent, so hard and dry--on a point -overlooking the _Shiel of the Glassalt_, and the head of the loch. Here -I suddenly missed my watch, which the dear old Duke had given me; and, -not being certain whether I had put it on or not, I asked Mackenzie[37] -to go back and inquire. We walked on until we reached the higher part -of the _Glassalt_, which we stepped across. We had passed over the tops -of these hills on that expedition to the _Dhu Loch_ three years ago, -when the ground was so soft, that ponies could scarcely get along, the -roads were so very bad. - -[36] Now Hon. Lady Biddulph. - -[37] One of our keepers and a very good man; he lives at -Alt-na-Giuthasach. - -Then we began the descent of the _Glassalt_, along which another path -has been admirably made. From here it is quite beautiful, so wild and -grand. The falls are equal to those of the _Bruar_ at _Blair_, and are -150 feet in height; the whole height to the foot of the loch being 500 -feet. It looked very picturesque to see the ponies and Highlanders -winding along. We came, down to the _Shiel of the Glassalt_, lately -built, where there is a charming room for us, commanding a most lovely -view. Here we took the cold luncheon, which we had brought with us; and -after that we mounted our ponies, and rode to the _Dhu Loch_, along -a beautiful path which keeps well above the burn, that rushes along -over flat great slabs of stone. The scenery is exquisite. We passed a -small fall called the _Burn of the Spullan_ (“spout”). In half or three -quarters of an hour we were at the wild and picturesque _Dhu Loch_. - -We got off our ponies, and I had just sat down to sketch, when -Mackenzie returned, saying my watch was safe at home, and bringing -letters: amongst them there was one from Lord Derby, which I tore -open, and alas! it contained the confirmation of the fatal news: that -_England’s_, or rather _Britain’s_ pride, her glory, her hero, the -greatest man she ever had produced, was no more! Sad day! Great and -irreparable national loss! - -Lord Derby enclosed a few lines from Lord Charles Wellesley, saying -that his dear great father had died on Tuesday at three o’clock, after -a few hours’ illness and no suffering. God’s will be done! The day must -have come: the Duke was eighty-three. It is well for him that he has -been taken when still in the possession of his great mind, and without -a long illness,--but what a _loss_! One cannot think of this country -without “the Duke,”--our immortal hero! - -In him centered almost every earthly honour a subject could possess. -His position was the highest a subject ever had,--above party,--looked -up to by all,--revered by the whole nation,--the friend of the -Sovereign;--and _how_ simply he carried these honours! With what -singleness of purpose, what straightforwardness, what courage, were -all the motives of his actions guided. The Crown never possessed,--and -I fear never _will_--so _devoted_, loyal, and faithful a subject, so -staunch a supporter! To _us_ (who alas! have lost, now, so many of -our valued and experienced friends,) his loss is _irreparable_, for -his readiness to aid and advise, if it could be of use to us, and to -overcome any and every difficulty, was unequalled. To Albert he showed -the greatest kindness and the utmost confidence. His experience and his -knowledge of the past were so great too; he was a link which connected -us with bygone times, with the last century. Not an eye will be dry in -the whole country. - -We hastened down on foot to the head of _Loch Muich_; and then rode -home, in a heavy shower, to _Alt-na-Giuthasach_. Our whole enjoyment -was spoilt; a gloom overhung all of us. - -We wrote to Lord Derby and Lord Charles Wellesley. - - - - -BUILDING THE CAIRN ON CRAIG GOWAN, &c. - - - _Monday, October 11, 1852._ - -This day has been a very happy, lucky, and memorable one--our last! A -fine morning. - -Albert had to see Mr. Walpole, and therefore it was nearly eleven -o’clock before we could go up to the top of _Craig Gowan_, to see the -cairn built, which was to commemorate our taking possession of this -dear place; the old cairn having been pulled down. We set off with all -the children, ladies, gentlemen, and a few of the servants, including -Macdonald and Grant, who had not already gone up; and at the _Moss -House_, which is half way, Mackay met us, and preceded us, playing, -Duncan and Donald Stewart[38] going before him, to the highest point of -_Craig Gowan_; where were assembled all the servants and tenants, with -their wives and children and old relations. All our little friends were -there: Mary Symons and Lizzie Stewart, the four Grants, and several -others. - -[38] One of the keepers, whom we found here in 1848. He is an excellent -man, and was much liked by the Prince; he always led the dogs when -the Prince went out stalking. He lives in the Western Lodge, close to -Grant’s house, which was built for him by the Prince. - -I then placed the first stone, after which Albert laid one, then the -children, according to their ages. All the ladies and gentlemen placed -one; and then every one came forward at once, each person carrying a -stone and placing it on the cairn. Mr. and Mrs. Anderson were there; -Mackay played; and whisky was given to all. It took, I am sure, an -hour building; and whilst it was going on, some merry reels were -danced on a stone opposite. All the old people (even the gardener’s -wife from _Corbie Hall_, near _Abergeldie_,) danced; and many of the -children, Mary Symons and Lizzie Stewart especially, danced so nicely; -the latter with her hair all hanging down. Poor dear old “Monk,” Sir -Robert Gordon’s faithful old dog, was sitting there amongst us all. -At last, when the cairn, which is, I think, seven or eight feet high, -was nearly completed, Albert climbed up to the top of it, and placed -the last stone; after which three cheers were given. It was a gay, -pretty, and touching sight; and I felt almost inclined to cry. The view -was so beautiful over the dear hills; the day so fine; the whole so -_gemüthlich_. May God bless this place, and allow us yet to see it and -enjoy it many a long year! - -[Illustration] - -After luncheon, Albert decided to walk through the wood for the last -time, to have a last chance, and allowed Vicky and me to go with him. -At half-past three o’clock we started, got out at Grant’s, and walked -up part of _Carrop_, intending to go along the upper path, when a stag -was heard to roar, and we all turned into the wood. We crept along, -and got into the middle path. Albert soon left us to go lower, and we -sat down to wait for him; presently we heard a shot--then complete -silence--and, after another pause of some little time, three more -shots. This was again succeeded by complete silence. We sent some one -to look, who shortly after returned, saying the stag had been twice hit -and they were after him. Macdonald next went, and in about five minutes -we heard “Solomon” give tongue, and knew he had the stag at bay. We -listened a little while, and then began moving down hoping to arrive -in time; but the barking had ceased, and Albert had already killed the -stag; and on the road he lay, a little way beyond _Invergelder_--the -beauty that we had admired yesterday evening. He was a magnificent -animal, and I sat down and scratched a little sketch of him on a bit of -paper that Macdonald had in his pocket, which I put on a stone--while -Albert and Vicky, with the others, built a little cairn to mark the -spot. We heard, after I had finished my little scrawl, and the carriage -had joined us, that another stag had been seen near the road; and we -had not gone as far as the “Irons,”[39] before we saw one below the -road, looking so handsome. Albert jumped out and fired--the animal -fell, but rose again, and went on a little way, and Albert followed. -Very shortly after, however, we heard a cry, and ran down and found -Grant and Donald Stewart pulling up a stag with a very pretty head. -Albert had gone on, Grant went after him, and I and Vicky remained with -Donald Stewart, the stag, and the dogs. I sat down to sketch, and poor -Vicky, unfortunately, seated herself on a wasp’s nest, and was much -stung. Donald Stewart rescued her, for I could not, being myself too -much alarmed. Albert joined us in twenty minutes, unaware of having -killed the stag. What a delightful day! But sad that it should be -the last day! Home by half-past six. We found our beautiful stag had -arrived, and admired him much. - -[39] These “Irons” are the levers of an old saw-mill which was pulled -down, and they were left there to be sold--between thirty and forty -years ago--and have remained there ever since, not being considered -worth selling, on account of the immense trouble of transporting them. - - - - -LAYING THE FOUNDATION STONE OF OUR NEW HOUSE. - - - _September 28, 1853._ - -A fine morning early, but when we walked out at half-past ten -o’clock it began raining, and soon poured down without ceasing. Most -fortunately it cleared up before two, and the sun shone brightly for -the ceremony of laying the foundation stone of the new house. Mama and -all her party arrived from _Abergeldie_ a little before three. I annex -the Programme of the Ceremony, which was strictly adhered to, and was -really very interesting:— - - -PROGRAMME. - - The stone being prepared and suspended over that upon which it is - to rest, (in which will be a cavity for the bottle containing the - parchment and the coins): - - The workmen will be placed in a semicircle at a little distance from - the stone, and the women and home servants in an inner semicircle. - - Her Majesty the Queen, and His Royal Highness the Prince, accompanied - by the Royal Children, Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent, and - attended by Her Majesty’s guests and suite, will proceed from the - house. - - Her Majesty, the Prince, and the Royal Family, will stand on the South - side of the stone, the suite being behind and on each side of the - Royal party. - - The Rev. Mr. Anderson will then pray for a blessing on the work. Her - Majesty will affix her signature to the parchment, recording the day - upon which the foundation stone was laid. Her Majesty’s signature - will be followed by that of the Prince and the Royal Children, the - Duchess of Kent, and any others that Her Majesty may command, and the - parchment will be placed in the bottle. - - One of each of the current coins of the present reign will also be - placed in the bottle, and the bottle having been sealed up, will be - placed in the cavity. The trowel will then be delivered to Her Majesty - by Mr. Smith of Aberdeen, the architect, and the mortar having been - spread, the stone will be lowered. - - The level and square will then be applied, and their correctness - having been ascertained, the mallet will be delivered to Her Majesty - by Mr. Stuart (the clerk of the works), when Her Majesty will strike - the stone and declare it to be laid. The cornucopia will be placed - upon the stone, and the oil and wine poured out by Her Majesty. - - The pipes will play, and Her Majesty, with the Royal Family, will - retire. - - As soon after as it can be got ready, the workmen will proceed to - their dinner. After dinner, the following toasts will be given by Mr. - Smith:— - - “The Queen.” - - “The Prince and the Royal Family.” - - “Prosperity to the house, and happiness to the inmates of Balmoral.” - - The workmen will then leave the dinner-room, and amuse themselves upon - the green with Highland games till seven o’clock, when a dance will - take place in the ball-room. - -We walked round to the spot, preceded by Mackay. Mr. Anderson[40] made -a very appropriate prayer. The wind was very high; but else everything -went off as well as could possibly be desired. - -[40] The Minister of Crathie: he died November, 1866. - -The workmen and people all gave a cheer when the whole was concluded. -In about three-quarters of an hour’s time we went in to see the people -at their dinner; and after this walked over to _Craig Gowan_ for Albert -to get a chance for black game. - -We dressed early, and went for twenty minutes before dinner to see -the people dancing in the ball-room, which they did with the greatest -spirit. - - - - -THE KIRK. - - - _October 29, 1854._ - -We went to Kirk, as usual, at twelve o’clock. The service was performed -by the Rev. Norman McLeod, of _Glasgow_, son of Dr. McLeod, and -anything finer I never heard. The sermon, entirely extempore, was -quite admirable; so simple, and yet so eloquent, and so beautifully -argued and put. The text was from the account of the coming of -Nicodemus to Christ by night; St. John, chapter 3. Mr. McLeod showed -in the sermon how we _all_ tried to please _self_, and live for -_that_, and in so doing found no rest. Christ had come not only to -die for us, but to show how we were to live. The second prayer was -very touching; his allusions to us were so simple, saying, after his -mention of us, “bless their children.” It gave me a lump in my throat, -as also when he prayed for “the dying, the wounded, the widow, and -the orphans.” Every one came back delighted; and how satisfactory it -is to come back from church with such feelings! The servants and the -Highlanders--_all_--were equally delighted. - - - - -ARRIVAL AT THE NEW CASTLE AT BALMORAL. - - - _September 7, 1855._ - -At a quarter-past seven o’clock we arrived at dear _Balmoral_. Strange, -very strange, it seemed to me to drive past, indeed _through_, the old -house; the connecting part between it and the offices being broken -through. The new house looks beautiful. The tower and the rooms in -the connecting part are, however, only half finished, and the offices -are still unbuilt: therefore the gentlemen (except the Minister[41]) -live in the old house, and so do most of the servants; there is a long -wooden passage which connects the new house with the offices. An old -shoe was thrown after us into the house, for good luck, when we entered -the hall. The house is charming: the rooms delightful; the furniture, -papers, everything perfection. - -[41] A Cabinet Minister is always in attendance upon the Queen at -Balmoral. - - - - -IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW CASTLE. - - - _September 8, 1855._ - -The view from the windows of our rooms, and from the library, -drawing-room, &c. below them, of the valley of the _Dee_, with the -mountains in the background,--which one never could see from the old -house, is quite beautiful. We walked about, and alongside the river, -and looked at all that has been done, and considered all that has to -be done; and afterwards we went over to the poor dear old house, and -to our rooms, which it was quite melancholy to see so deserted; and -settled about things being brought over. - - - - -NEWS OF THE FALL OF SEVASTOPOL. - - - _September 10, 1855._ - -Mama, and her lady and gentleman, to dinner. - -All were in constant expectation of more telegraphic despatches. -At half-past ten o’clock two arrived--one for me, and one for Lord -Granville. I began reading mine, which was from Lord Clarendon, with -details from Marshal Pélissier of the further destruction of the -Russian ships; and Lord Granville said, “I have still better news;” -on which he read, “From General Simpson--_Sevastopol is in the hands -of the Allies_.” God be praised for it! Our delight was great; but -we could hardly believe the good news, and from having so long, so -anxiously expected it, one could not realize the actual fact. - -Albert said they should go at once and light the bonfire which had -been prepared when the false report of the fall of the town arrived -last year, and had remained ever since, waiting to be lit. On the 5th -of November, the day of the battle of _Inkermann_, the wind upset it, -strange to say; and now again, most strangely, it only seemed to _wait_ -for our return to be lit. - -The new house seems to be lucky, indeed; for, from the first moment -of our arrival, we have had good news. In a few minutes, Albert -and all the gentlemen, in every species of attire, sallied forth, -followed by all the servants, and gradually by all the population of -the village--keepers, gillies, workmen--up to the top of the cairn. -We waited, and saw them light the bonfire; accompanied by general -cheering. It blazed forth brilliantly, and we could see the numerous -figures surrounding it--some dancing, all shouting;--Ross[42] playing -his pipes, and Grant and Macdonald firing off guns continually; while -poor old François d’Albertançon[43] lighted a number of squibs below, -the greater part of which would not go off. About three-quarters of -an hour after, Albert came down, and said the scene had been wild -and exciting beyond everything. The people had been drinking healths -in whisky, and were in great ecstasy. The whole house seemed in a -wonderful state of excitement. The boys were with difficulty awakened, -and when at last this was the case, they begged leave to go up to the -top of the cairn. - -[42] My Piper since 1854; he had served seventeen years in the 42nd -Highlanders--a very respectable, good man. - -[43] An old servant of Sir R. Gordon’s, who had charge of the house, -and was a native of Alsace; he died in 1858. - -We remained till a quarter to twelve; and, just as I was undressing, -all the people came down under the windows, the pipes playing, the -people singing, firing off guns, and cheering--first for me, then for -Albert, the Emperor of the French, and the “downfall of _Sevastopol_.” - - - - -THE BETROTHAL OF THE PRINCESS ROYAL. - - - _September 29, 1855._ - -Our dear Victoria was this day engaged to Prince Frederick William of -Prussia, who had been on a visit to us since the 14th. He had already -spoken to us, on the 20th, of his wishes; but we were uncertain, on -account of her extreme youth, whether he should speak to her himself, -or wait till he came back again. However, we felt it was better he -should do so; and during our ride up _Craig-na-Ban_ this afternoon, he -picked a piece of white heather, (the emblem of “good luck,”) which -he gave to her; and this enabled him to make an allusion to his hopes -and wishes, as they rode down _Glen Girnoch_, which led to this happy -conclusion. - - - - -THE KIRK. - - - _October 14, 1855._ - -To Kirk at twelve o’clock. The Rev. J. Caird, one of the most -celebrated preachers in _Scotland_, performed the service, and -electrified all present by a most admirable and beautiful sermon, which -lasted nearly an hour, but which kept one’s attention riveted. The -text was from the twelfth chapter of Romans, and the eleventh verse: -“_Not slothful in business; fervent in spirit; serving the Lord._” He -explained, in the most beautiful and simple manner, what real religion -is; how it ought to pervade every action of our lives; not a thing only -for Sundays, or for our closet; not a thing to drive us from the world; -not “a perpetual moping over ‘good’ books,” but “being and doing good;” -“letting everything be done in a Christian spirit.” It was as fine as -Mr. McLeod’s sermon last year, and sent us home much edified. - - - - -FINDING THE OLD CASTLE GONE. - - - _August 30, 1856._ - -On arriving at _Balmoral_ at seven o’clock in the evening, we found the -tower finished as well as the offices, and the poor old house gone! The -effect of the whole is very fine. - - - - -GARDENS, &c. ROUND THE NEW CASTLE. - - - _August 31, 1856._ - -We walked along the river and outside the house. The new offices and -the yard are excellent; and the little garden on the west side, with -the eagle fountain which the King of Prussia gave me, and which used to -be in the greenhouse at _Windsor_, is extremely pretty; as are also the -flower-beds under the walls of the side which faces the _Dee_. There -are sculptured arms on the different shields, gilt, which has a very -good effect; and a bas-relief under our windows--not gilt--representing -St. Hubert, with St. Andrew on one side and St. George on the other -side: all done by Mr. Thomas.[44] - -[44] He died in March, 1862. The Prince had a high opinion of his -taste. - -[Illustration: BALMORAL CASTLE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.] - - - - -LOVE FOR BALMORAL. - - - _October 13, 1856._ - -Every year my heart becomes more fixed in this dear Paradise, and -so much more so now, that _all_ has become my dear Albert’s _own_ -creation, own work, own building, own laying out, as at _Osborne_; and -his great taste, and the impress of his dear hand, have been stamped -everywhere. He was very busy to-day, settling and arranging many things -for next year. - - - - -OPENING OF THE NEW BRIDGE OVER THE LINN OF DEE. - - - _September 8, 1857._ - -At half-past one o’clock we started in “Highland state,”--Albert in a -royal Stuart plaid, and I and the girls in skirts of the same,--with -the ladies (who had only returned at five in the morning from the ball -at _Mar Lodge_) and gentlemen, for the _Linn of Dee_, to open the -new bridge there. The valley looked beautiful. A triumphal arch was -erected, at which Lord Fife and Mr. Brooke received us, and walked near -the carriage, pipers playing--the road lined with Duff men. On the -bridge Lady Fife received us, and we all drank in whisky “prosperity to -the bridge.” The view of the Linn is very fine from it. - -All the company and a band were outside a tent on the bank overlooking -the bridge. Here we took some tea, talked with the company, and then -drove back by _Mar Lodge_,--the Fifes preceding us to the end of -the grounds. The same people were there as at the Gatherings,--the -Campdens, Errolls, Airlies, old Lady Duff, and Mr. and Lady L. Brooke, -and others. We were home at half-past five, not without having some -rain by the way. - - - - -VISITS TO THE OLD WOMEN. - - - _Saturday, September 26, 1857._ - -Albert went out with Alfred for the day, and I walked out with the two -girls and Lady Churchill, stopped at the shop and made some purchases -for poor people and others; drove a little way, got out and walked up -the hill to _Balnacroft_, Mrs. P. Farquharson’s, and she walked round -with us to some of the cottages to show me where the poor people lived, -and to tell them who I was. Before we went into any we met an old -woman, who, Mrs. Farquharson said, was very poor, eighty-eight years -old, and mother to the former distiller. I gave her a warm petticoat, -and the tears rolled down her old cheeks, and she shook my hands, and -prayed God to bless me: it was very touching. - -I went into a small cabin of old Kitty Kear’s, who is eighty-six years -old--quite erect, and who welcomed us with a great air of dignity. She -sat down and spun. I gave her, also, a warm petticoat; she said, “May -the Lord ever attend ye and yours, here and hereafter; and may the Lord -be a guide to ye, and keep ye from all harm.” She was quite surprised -at Vicky’s height; great interest is taken in her. We went on to a -cottage (formerly Jean Gordon’s), to visit old widow Symons, who is -“past fourscore,” with a nice rosy face, but was bent quite double; she -was most friendly, shaking hands with us all, asking which was I, and -repeating many kind blessings: “May the Lord attend ye with mirth and -with joy; may He ever be with ye in this world, and when ye leave it.” -To Vicky, when told she was going to be married, she said, “May the -Lord be a guide to ye in your future, and may every happiness attend -ye.” She was very talkative; and when I said I hoped to see her again, -she expressed an expectation that “she should be called any day,” and -so did Kitty Kear.[45] - -[45] She died in Jan. 1865. - -We went into three other cottages: to Mrs. Symons’s (daughter-in-law to -the old widow living next door), who had an “unwell boy;” then across -a little burn to another old woman’s; and afterwards peeped into Blair -the fiddler’s. We drove back, and got out again to visit old Mrs. Grant -(Grant’s mother), who is so tidy and clean, and to whom I gave a dress -and handkerchief, and she said, “You’re too kind to me, you’re over -kind to me, ye give me more every year, and I get older every year.” -After talking some time with her, she said, “I am happy to see ye -looking so nice.” She had tears in her eyes, and speaking of Vicky’s -going, said, “I’m very sorry, and I think she is sorry hersel’;” and, -having said she feared she would not see her (the Princess) again, -said: “I am very sorry I said that, but I meant no harm; I always say -just what I think, not what is fut” (fit). Dear old lady; she is such a -pleasant person. - -Really the affection of these good people, who are so hearty and so -happy to see you, taking interest in everything, is very touching and -gratifying. - - - - -VISIT TO THE PRINCE’S ENCAMPMENT AT FEITHORT. - - - _Tuesday, October 6, 1857._ - - -At twelve o’clock I drove off with the two girls to the “Irons,” where -we mounted our ponies, and rode up (Brown and Robertson attending on -foot) through the _Corrie Buie_, along the pretty new path through -_Feithluie_ to the foot of the very steep ascent to _Feithort_, where -we got off and walked up--and suddenly, when nearly at the top of the -path, came upon Albert’s little encampment, which was just at the edge -of the winding path. - -[Illustration] - -Albert was still absent, having gone out at six o’clock, but Löhlein -and some of the gillies were there. The little house, with shelves -for keeping a few boxes (no seat), and a little stove, was not at -all uncomfortable; but the wind was dreadfully high, and blew in. We -waited for about a quarter of an hour, and then Albert arrived; he had -been out since six o’clock, shot three stags, but only got one bad -one. The fine one, yesterday evening, had cost him much trouble. The -night had been bitterly cold and windy; but he had slept. We lunched -in the little “housie” at the open door. There was a second hut for -the people. Luncheon over, we walked down and across the greater part -of the _Balloch Buie_, mounting our ponies wherever it was wet. We saw -deer as we came lower down, and all of a sudden a stag was seen quite -close by the path; Albert shot him, and he fell at once. He had very -fine horns, a royal on one side. - -Then they beat up to the _Craig Daign_. Poor Albert was much tired, -and had to walk all the time, as he had no pony; we rode part of the -way. Then the lower part of the road was driven. As we were sitting by -a tree close to Albert a stag came out, and Albert killed him at one -shot. A fine day, though at times it has been very cold. We got home at -half-past six. - - - - -A FALL OF SNOW. - - - _September 18, 1858._ - -Alas! the last day! When we got up the weather seemed very hopeless. -Everything was white with snow, which lay, at least, an inch on the -ground, and it continued snowing heavily, as it had done since five -this morning. I wished we might be snowed up, and unable to move. How -happy I should have been could it have been so! It continued snowing -till half-past ten or eleven, and then it began to clear up. The hills -appeared quite white; the sun came out, and it became splendidly -bright. Albert was going to have the woods driven--which are not -properly called _Carrop Woods_, but _Garmaddie Woods_--but had first to -ride round _Craig Gowan_ with Dr. Robertson to see _Robrech_, the place -where Duncan’s new house is to be built, which is above the village, -opposite _Craig Luraghain_, with a most splendid view; and at Grant’s -house I was to meet him. - -At one o’clock I left with Alice and Lenchen[46] for Grant’s, where we -met Albert, who joined us in the carriage: the day was truly splendid. -We got out at the river, and were going down to _Nelly’s Bush_, when -a stag was heard roaring very near; so we had to stop, and, with our -plaids and cloaks to sit upon, really avoided getting very wet. We -waited till Albert was near to the stag, saw it move, heard Albert -fire twice, and the stag turn, stop, and then disappear. Albert fired -again, but the stag had crossed the _Dee_; so we turned up on to the -road, and went into the dear old _Corrie Buie_; Albert turning off to -see if there were any deer near, while we waited for him. We then came -to a place which is always wet, but which was particularly bad after -the late rain and snow. There was no pony for me to get on; and as I -wished not to get my feet wet by walking through the long grass, Albert -proposed I should be carried over in a plaid; and Lenchen was first -carried over; but it was held too low, and her feet dangled; so Albert -suggested the plaid should be put round the men’s shoulders, and that I -should sit upon it; Brown and Duncan, the two strongest and handiest, -were the two who undertook it, and I sat safely enough with an arm -on each man’s shoulder, and was carried successfully over. All the -Highlanders are so amusing, and really pleasant and instructive to talk -to--women as well as men--and the latter so gentlemanlike.[47] Albert’s -shots were heard close by whilst we were at luncheon; and there was -a general rush of all the people. Albert joined us soon after; he had -had a great deal of trouble in stalking his stag, which he had been -after several days, but had killed him at one shot. He was brought -for us to see: a very light-coloured one, with fine straight horns, -of extraordinary thickness. After this we walked on for a beat quite -round _Carrop_; and the view was glorious! A little shower of snow had -fallen, but was succeeded by brilliant sunshine. The hills covered with -snow, the golden birch-trees on the lower brown hills, and the bright -afternoon sky, were indescribably beautiful. - -[46] Princess Helena. - -[47] A similar view to that given in the text is admirably expressed -by the Reverend Frederick W. Robertson in his _Lectures on Literary -and Social Topics_, and his description of a Tyrolese is even more -applicable to a Highlander. - - “My companion was a Tyrolese chamois-hunter, a man who, in point of - social position, might rank with an English labourer. I fear there - would be a difficulty in England in making such a companionship - pleasurable and easy to both parties; there would be a painful - obsequiousness, or else an insolent familiarity on the one side, - constraint on the other. In this case there was nothing of that sort. - We walked together, and ate together. He had all the independence of a - man, but he knew the courtesy which was due to a stranger; and when we - parted for the night, he took his leave with a politeness and dignity - which would have done no discredit to the most finished gentleman. The - reason, as it seemed to me, was that his character had been moulded - by the sublimities of the forms of the outward nature amidst which - he lived. It was impossible to see the clouds wreathing themselves - in that strange wild way of theirs round the mountain crests, till - the hills seemed to become awful things, instinct with life--it - was impossible to walk, as we did sometimes, an hour or two before - sunrise, and see the morning’s beams gilding with their pure light the - grand old peaks on the opposite side of the valley, while we ourselves - were still in deepest shade, and look on that man, his very exterior - in harmony with all around him, and his calm eye resting on all that - wondrous spectacle, without a feeling that these things had had their - part in making him what he was, and that you were in a country in - which men were bound to be polished, bound to be more refined, almost - bound to be better men than elsewhere.” - - -The following lines[48] admirably pourtray what I then saw:— - - “The gorgeous bright October, - Then when brackens are changed, and heather blooms are faded, - And amid russet of heather and fern, green trees are bonnie; - Alders are green, and oaks; the rowan scarlet and yellow; - One great glory of broad gold pieces appears the aspen, - And the jewels of gold that were hung in the hair of the birch-tree, - Pendulous, here and there, her coronet, necklace, and earrings, - Cover her now, o’er and o’er; she is weary and scatters them from her.” - -Oh! how I gazed and gazed on God’s glorious works with a sad heart, -from its being for the last time, and tried to carry the scene away, -well implanted and fixed in my mind, for this effect with the snow we -shall not often see again. We saw it like this in 1852; but we have not -seen it so since, though we have often had snow-storms and showers with -a little snow lying on the highest hills. - -[48] _The Bothie of Tober-na-Vuolich._ By Arthur Hugh Clough. - - - - -ASCENT OF MORVEN. - - - _September 14, 1859._ - -I felt very low-spirited at my dearest Albert having to leave at one -o’clock for _Aberdeen_, to preside at the meeting of the British -Association. - -I with Alice, the two ladies, Lord Charles Fitzroy, and Brown, left -shortly before for _Morven_. We took post-horses at the foot of -_Gairn_, and drove by the right side of the glen, along a new good -road, avoiding the ford, and by half-past two we were at the foot of -_Morven_, not far from the shooting-lodge there. Here we mounted our -ponies, and our caravan started with the gillies--Jemmie Coutts, an -old acquaintance, now keeper of the lodge, leading the way. About -half-way, at a burn-side, we stopped, seated ourselves on plaids on -the fine springy turf, and took luncheon; then walked about, sketched, -mounted our ponies, and rode up to the top, which was rather steep and -soft,—“foggy,” as Brown called it, which is the Highland expression -for mossy,--my little pony, being so fat, panted dreadfully. _Morven_ -is 2,700 feet high, and the view from it more magnificent than can -be described, so large and yet so near everything seemed, and such -seas of mountains with blue lights, and the colour so wonderfully -beautiful. We looked down upon the Duke of Richmond’s property, and -saw the mountain called the _Buck of Cabrach_, and still further on -the _Slate Hills_; to the east, _Aberdeen_ and the blue sea, and we -could even see the ships with the naked eye: the table-land between -_Tarland_ and _Ballater_; and stretching out below, due south, _Mount -Keen_. To the south-west, _Loch-na-Gar_; to the west, _Ben A’an_ and -_Ben-na-Bhourd_,—“the land of _Gairn_,” as they call it, and _Muich_; -and _Deeside_ in the foreground. It was enchanting! We walked down to -where we had lunched, and rode to the bottom. Here we found a fire, -also tea with cakes, &c., which had been very kindly prepared for us -by a lady and gentleman, the daughter and son of Sir J. G. Ratcliff, -living in the shooting-lodge. We drank the tea, and left in the -carriage at half-past six o’clock, reaching _Balmoral_ at half-past -seven. So sad not to find my darling Husband at home. - - - - -THE PRINCE’S RETURN FROM ABERDEEN. - - - _September 15, 1859._ - -I heard by telegram last night that Albert’s reception was admirable, -and that all was going off as well as possible. Thank God. I ascended -_Loch-na-Gar_ with Alice, Helena, Bertie, Lady Churchill, Colonel -Bruce, and our usual attendants, and returned after six o’clock. At -ten minutes past seven arrived my beloved Albert. All had gone off -most admirably; he had seen many learned people; all were delighted -with his speech; the reception most gratifying. _Banchory House_ (Mr. -Thomson’s) where he lodged (four miles from _Aberdeen_) was, he said, -very comfortable. - - - - -FÊTE TO THE MEMBERS OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. - - - _September 22, 1859._ - -The morning dawned brightly. Suddenly a very high wind arose which -alarmed us, but yet it looked bright, and we hoped the wind would keep -off the rain; but after breakfast, while watching the preparations, -showers began, and from half-past eleven a fearful down-pour, with that -white curtain-like appearance which is so alarming; and this lasted -till half-past twelve. I was in despair; but at length it began to -clear, just as the neighbours with their families, and some of the -farmers opposite (the Herrons, Duncans, Brown’s father and brothers) -arrived, and then came the huge omnibuses and carriages laden with -“philosophers.” At two o’clock we were all ready. Albert and the boys -were in their kilts, and I and the girls in royal Stuart skirts and -shawls over black velvet bodies. - -It was a beautiful sight in spite of the frequent slight showers -which at first tormented us, and the very high cold wind. There were -gleams of sunshine, which, with the Highlanders in their brilliant and -picturesque dresses, the wild notes of the pipes, the band, and the -beautiful background of mountains rendered the scene wild and striking -in the extreme. The Farquharson’s men headed by Colonel Farquharson, -the Duff’s by Lord Fife, and the Forbes’s men by Sir Charles Forbes, -had all marched on the ground before we came out, and were drawn up -just opposite to us, and the spectators (the people of the country) -behind them. We stood on the terrace, the company near us, and the -“savants,” also, on either side of us, and along the slopes, on the -grounds. The games began about three o’clock: - - 1. “Throwing the Hammer.” - 2. “Tossing the Caber.” - 3. “Putting the Stone.” - -We gave prizes to the three best in each of the games. We walked along -the terrace to the large marquee, talking to the people, to where the -men were “putting the stone.” After this returned to the upper terrace, -to see the race, a pretty wild sight; but the men looked very cold, -with nothing but their shirts and kilts on; they ran beautifully. They -wrapped plaids round themselves, and then came to receive the prizes -from me. Last of all came the dancing--reels and “Ghillie Callum.” The -latter the judges could not make up their minds about; it was danced -over and over again; and at last they left out the best dancer of all! -They said he danced “too well!” The dancing over, we left amid the loud -cheers of the people. It was then about half-past five. We watched from -the window the Highlanders marching away, the different people walking -off, and four weighty omnibuses filling with the scientific men. We -saw, and talked to, Professor Owen, Sir David Brewster, Sir John -Bowring, Mr. J. Roscoe, and Sir John Ross.[49] - -[49] During the Fête, we heard from Sir R. Murchison and others that -news had been received this morning of the finding of poor Sir John -Franklin’s remains--or, rather, of the things belonging to him and his -party. - -When almost all were gone, we took a short walk to warm ourselves. -Much pleased at everything having gone off well. The Duke of Richmond, -Sir R. Murchison, General Sabine, Mr. Thomson of _Banchory House_, and -Professor Phillipps, Secretary of the Association, all of whom slept -here, were additions to the dinner-party. I sat between our cousin -Philip (Count of Flanders) and the Duke of Richmond. All the gentlemen -spoke in very high terms of my beloved Albert’s admirable speech, the -good it had done, and the general satisfaction it had caused. - -We could see the fire of the Forbes’s encampment on the opposite side. - - - - -EXPEDITION TO INCHRORY. - - - _September 30, 1859._ - -At twenty minutes past eleven we started with Helena and Louise in -the sociable, Grant on the box, for _Loch Bulig_, passing the farms -of _Blairglass_ and of _Dall Dounie_, and the shooting-lodge of -_Corndavon_, ten miles distant. Here we found our ponies (mine being -“Victoria”), and rode along the edge of the lake, up a beautiful glen -by a path winding through the valley, which appeared frequently closed. -We then rode along a small river or burn, of which no one knew the -name; none of our party having ever been there before. The hills were -sprinkled with birch-trees, and there was grass below in the valley; -we saw deer. As we approached _Inchrory_ (a shooting-lodge of Lord H. -Bentinck’s) the scenery became finer and finer, reminding us of _Glen -Tilt_, and was most beautiful at _Inchrory_, with the fine broad water -of the _Avon_ flowing down from the mountains. - -We inquired of the people at _Inchrory_ whether there was any way of -getting round over the hills by _Gairn Shiel_, and they said there -was; but that the distance was about 11 miles. Neither Grant nor Brown -had been that way. However we accepted it at once, and I was delighted -to go on _à l’improviste_, travelling about in these enchanting hills -in this solitude, with only our good Highlanders with us, who never -make difficulties, but are cheerful, and happy, and merry, and ready -to walk, and run, and do anything. So on we went, turning up above -_Inchrory_ by a winding road between hillocks and commanding a glorious -view towards _Laganaul_. Here, on a little grassy knoll, we lunched in -a splendid position. - -After our luncheon, and walking a little way, we remounted, and -proceeded by the so-called “Brown Cow” (on the other side of which -we had driven), over a moor, meeting a shepherd, out of whom Grant -could get little information. Soon we came to corn-fields in the -valley; passed _Favanché_ and _Inchmore_, and got on to a good road, -on which Brown and Grant “travelled” at a _wonderful_ pace, upwards -of five miles an hour without stopping; and the former with that -vigorous, light, elastic tread which is quite astonishing. We passed -_Dal-na-Damph Shiel_ (a shooting-lodge of Sir Charles Forbes); and went -along the old “Military Road,” leaving _Cockbridge_, a small straggling -“toun,” which is on the road to _Inverness_, to our left, and the old -_Castle of Corgarf_ to our right. We looked over into _Donside_. The -road was soon left for a mountain one in the hills, above one of the -tributary streams of the _Don_, and was wild and desolate; we passed -_Dal Choupar_ and _Dal Vown_, and, as we ascended, we saw _Tornahoish_, -at a distance to the left. After going along this hill-track, over some -poor and tottering bridges, we joined the road by which we had driven -to _Tornahoish_. It was fast getting dark, but was very fine. I and -the girls got off and walked sharply some little distance. Albert had -walked further on, Grant riding his pony meantime. P. Robertson and -Kennedy, besides those I have named, carried the basket alternately. - -We remounted our ponies, and Brown led mine on at an amazing pace -up the _Glaschoil Hill_, and we finally reached _Gairn Shiel_ after -seven, quite in the dark. There, at the small public-house, we found -the carriage, and drove off as soon as we could; the ponies were to -be given half a feed, and then to come on. We had to drive home very -slowly, as the road is not good, and very steep in parts. - -A mild night. Home by ten minutes past eight, enchanted with our day. -How I wish we could travel about in this way, and see _all_ the wild -spots in the _Highlands_! We had gone 35 miles, having ridden 19 and a -half! The little girls were in great glee the whole time. - - - - -ASCENT OF BEN MUICH DHUI. - - - _Friday, October 7, 1859._ - -Breakfast at half-past eight. At ten minutes to nine we started, in the -sociable, with Bertie and Alice and our usual attendants. Drove along -the opposite side of the river. The day very mild and promising to be -fine, though a little heavy over the hills, which we anxiously watched. -At _Castleton_ we took four post-horses, and drove to the _Shiel of -the Derry_, that beautiful spot where we were last year--which Albert -had never seen--and arrived there just before eleven. Our ponies were -there with Kennedy, Robertson, and Jemmie Smith. One pony carried the -luncheon-baskets. After all the cloaks, &c. had been placed on the -ponies, or carried by the men, we mounted and began our “journey.” -I was on “Victoria,” Alice on “Dobbins.” George McHardy, an elderly -man who knew the country (and acts as a guide, carrying luggage for -people across the hills “on beasts” which he keeps for that purpose), -led the way. We rode (my pony being led by Brown most of the time both -going up and down) at least four miles up _Glen Derry_, which is very -fine, with the remnants of a splendid forest, _Cairn Derry_ being to -the right, and the _Derry Water_ running below. The track was very bad -and stony, and broken up by cattle coming down for the “Tryst.” At the -end of the glen we crossed a ford, passed some softish ground, and -turned up to the left by a very rough, steep, but yet gradual ascent to -_Corrie Etchan_, which is in a very wild rugged spot, with magnificent -precipices, a high mountain to the right called _Ben Main_, while to -the left was _Cairngorm of Derry_. When we reached the top of this very -steep ascent (we had been rising, though almost imperceptibly, from the -_Derry Shiel_,) we came upon a loch of the same name, which reminded us -of _Loch-na-Gar_ and of _Loch-na-Nian_. You look from here on to other -wild hills and corries--on _Ben A’an_, &c. We ascended very gradually, -but became so enveloped in mist that we could see nothing--hardly those -just before us! Albert had walked a good deal; and it was very cold. -The mist got worse; and as we rode along the stony, but almost flat -ridge of _Ben Muich Dhui_, we hardly knew whether we were on level -ground or the top of the mountain. However, I and Alice rode to the -very top, which we reached a few minutes past two; and here, at a cairn -of stones, we lunched, in a piercing cold wind. - -Just as we sat down, a gust of wind came and dispersed the mist, which -had a most wonderful effect, like a dissolving view--and exhibited the -grandest, wildest scenery imaginable! We sat on a ridge of the cairn to -take our luncheon,--our good people being grouped with the ponies near -us. Luncheon over, Albert ran off with Alice to the ridge to look at -the splendid view, and sent for me to follow. I did so; but not without -Grant’s help, for there were quantities of large loose stones heaped up -together to walk upon. The wind was fearfully high, but the view was -well worth seeing. I cannot describe all, but we saw where the _Dee_ -rises between the mountains called the _Well of Dee_—_Ben-y-Ghlo_--and -the adjacent mountains, _Ben Vrackie_--then _Ben-na-Bhourd_--_Ben -A’an_, &c.--and such magnificent wild rocks, precipices, and corries. -It had a sublime and solemn effect; so wild, so solitary--no one but -ourselves and our little party there. - -Albert went on further with the children, but I returned with Grant to -my seat on the cairn, as I could not scramble about well. Soon after, -we all began walking and looking for “cairngorms,” and found some -small ones. The mist had entirely cleared away below, so that we saw -all the beautiful views. _Ben Muich Dhui_ is 4,297 feet high, one of -the highest mountains in _Scotland_. I and Alice rode part of the way, -walking wherever it was very steep. Albert and Bertie walked the whole -time. I had a little whisky and water, as the people declared pure -water would be too chilling. We then rode on without getting off again, -Albert talking so gaily with Grant. Upon which Brown observed to me in -simple Highland phrase, “It’s very pleasant to walk with a person who -is always ’content.’” Yesterday, in speaking of dearest Albert’s sport, -when I observed he never was cross after bad luck, Brown said, “Every -one on the estate says there never was so kind a master; I am sure our -only wish is to give satisfaction.” I said, they certainly did.[50] - -[50] We were always in the habit of conversing with the -Highlanders--with whom one comes so much in contact in the Highlands. -The Prince highly appreciated the good-breeding, simplicity, and -intelligence, which make it so pleasant and even instructive to talk to -them. - -By a quarter-past six o’clock we got down to the _Shiel of the Derry_, -where we found some tea, which we took in the “shiel,”[51] and started -again by moonlight at about half-past six. We reached _Castleton_ at -half-past seven--and after this it became cloudy. At a quarter-past -eight precisely we were at _Balmoral_, much delighted and not at all -tired; everything had been so well arranged, and so quietly, without -any fuss. _Never_ shall I forget this day, or the impression this very -grand scene made upon me; truly sublime and impressive; such solitude. - -[51] “Shiel” means a small shooting-lodge. - - - - -FIRST GREAT EXPEDITION:--TO GLEN FISHIE AND GRANTOWN. - - - _Hotel Grantown, Tuesday, September 4, 1860._ - -Arrived this evening after a most interesting tour; I will recount -the events of the day. Breakfasted at _Balmoral_ in our own room at -half-past seven o’clock, and started at eight or a little past, with -Lady Churchill and General Grey, in the sociable (Grant and Brown on -the box as usual), for _Castleton_, where we changed horses. We went -on five miles beyond the _Linn of Dee_, to the _Shepherd’s Shiel of -Geldie_, or, properly speaking, _Giuly_, where we found our ponies and -a guide, Charlie Stewart. We mounted at once, and rode up along the -_Geldie_, which we had to ford frequently to avoid the bogs, and rode -on for two hours up _Glen Geldie_, over a moor which was so soft and -boggy in places, that we had to get off several times. The hills were -wild, but not very high, bare of trees, and even of heather to a great -extent, and not picturesque till we approached the _Fishie_, and turned -to the right up to the glen which we could see in the distance. The -_Fishie_ and _Geldie_ rise almost on a level, with very little distance -between them. The _Fishie_ is a fine rapid stream, full of stones. -As you approach the glen, which is very narrow, the scenery becomes -very fine--particularly after fording the _Etchart_, a very deep ford. -Grant, on his pony, led me through: our men on foot took off their -shoes and stockings to get across. From this point the narrow path -winds along the base of the hills of _Craig-na-Go’ar_--the rocks of the -“Goat Craig;”—_Craig-na-Caillach_; and _Stron-na-Barin_--the nose of -the queen.” The rapid river is overhung by rocks, with trees, birch and -fir; the hills, as you advance, rise very steeply on both sides, with -rich rocks and corries, and occasional streamlets falling from very -high--while the path winds along, rising gradually higher and higher. -It is quite magnificent! - -We stopped when we came to a level spot amongst the trees. The native -firs are particularly fine; and the whole is grand in the extreme. We -lunched here--a charming spot--at two o’clock; and then pursued our -journey. We walked on a little way to where the valley and glen widen -out, and where there is what they call here a green “hard.” We got on -our ponies again and crossed the _Fishie_ (a stream we forded many -times in the course of the day) to a place where the finest fir-trees -are, amidst some of the most beautiful scenery possible. - -Then we came upon a most lovely spot--the scene of all Landseer’s -glory--and where there is a little encampment of wooden and turf huts, -built by the late Duchess of Bedford; now no longer belonging to the -family, and, alas! all falling into decay--among splendid fir-trees, -the mountains rising abruptly from the sides of the valley. We were -quite enchanted with the beauty of the view. This place is about seven -miles from the mouth of the _Fishie_. Emerging from the wood we came -upon a good road, with low hills, beautifully heather-coloured, to -the left; those to the right, high and wooded, with noble corries and -waterfalls. - -We met Lord and Lady Alexander Russell at a small farm-house, just -as we rode out of the wood, and had some talk with them. They feel -deeply the ruin of the place where they formerly lived, as it no longer -belongs to them. We rode on for a good long distance, 12 miles, till -we came to the ferry of the _Spey_. Deer were being driven in the -woods, and we heard several shots. We saw fine ranges of hills on the -_Speyside_, or _Strathspey_, and opening to our left, those near _Loch -Laggan_. We came to a wood of larch; from that, upon cultivated land, -with _Kinrara_ towards our right, where the monument to the late Duke -of Gordon is conspicuously seen on a hill, which was perfectly crimson -with heather. - -Before entering the larch wood, Lord Alexander Russell caught us up -again in a little pony carriage, having to go the same way, and he -was so good as to explain everything to us. He showed us “The Duke of -Argyll’s Stone”--a cairn on the top of a hill to our right, celebrated, -as seems most probable, from the Marquis of Argyll having halted there -with his army. We came to another larch wood, when I and Lady Churchill -got off our ponies, as we were very stiff from riding so long; and at -the end of this wood we came upon _Loch Inch_, which is lovely, and -of which I should have liked exceedingly to have taken a sketch, but -we were pressed for time and hurried. The light was lovely; and some -cattle were crossing a narrow strip of grass across the end of the loch -nearest to us, which really made a charming picture. It is not a wild -lake, quite the contrary; no high rocks, but woods and blue hills as a -background. About a mile from this was the ferry. There we parted from -our ponies, only Grant and Brown coming on with us. Walker, the police -inspector, met us, but did not keep with us. He had been sent to order -everything in a quiet way, without letting people suspect who we were: -in this he entirely succeeded. The ferry was a very rude affair; it -was like a boat or coble, but we could only stand on it, and it was -moved at one end by two long oars, plied by the ferryman and Brown, and -at the other end by a long sort of beam, which Grant took in hand. A -few seconds brought us over to the road, where there were two shabby -vehicles, one a kind of barouche, into which Albert and I got, Lady -Churchill and General Grey into the other--a break; each with a pair -of small and rather miserable horses, driven by a man from the box. -Grant was on our carriage, and Brown on the other. We had gone so far -40 miles, at least 20 on horseback. We had decided to call ourselves -_Lord and Lady Churchill and party_, Lady Churchill passing as _Miss -Spencer_, and General Grey as _Dr. Grey_! Brown once forgot this, and -called me “Your Majesty” as I was getting into the carriage; and Grant -on the box once called Albert “Your Royal Highness;” which set us off -laughing, but no one observed it. - -[Illustration] - -We had a long three hours’ drive; it was six o’clock when we got -into the carriage. We were soon out of the wood, and came upon the -_Badenoch_ road--passing close by _Kinrara_, but unfortunately not -through it, which we ought to have done. It was very beautiful--fine -wooded hills--the high _Cairngorm_ range, and _Ben Muich Dhui_, -unfortunately much obscured by the mist on the top--and the broad -_Spey_ flowing in the valley, with cultivated fields and fine trees -below. Most striking, however, on our whole long journey was the utter, -and to me very refreshing, solitude. Hardly a habitation! and hardly -meeting a soul! It gradually grew dark. We stopped at a small half-way -house for the horses to take some water; and the few people about -stared vacantly at the two simple vehicles. - -The mountains gradually disappeared,--the evening was mild, with a -few drops of rain. On and on we went, till at length we saw lights, -and drove through a long and straggling “toun,” and turned down a -small court to the door of the inn. Here we got out quickly--Lady -Churchill and General Grey not waiting for us. We went up a small -staircase, and were shown to our bed-room at the top of it--very small, -but clean--with a large four-post bed which nearly filled the whole -room. Opposite was the drawing and dining-room in one--very tidy and -well-sized. Then came the room where Albert dressed, which was very -small. The two maids (Jane Shackle[52] was with me) had driven over by -another road in the waggonette, Stewart driving them. Made ourselves -“clean and tidy,” and then sat down to our dinner. Grant and Brown were -to have waited on us, but were “bashful” and did not. A ringletted -woman did everything; and, when dinner was over, removed the cloth -and placed the bottle of wine (our own which we had brought) on the -table with the glasses, which was the old English fashion. The dinner -was very fair, and all very clean:--soup, “hodge-podge,” mutton-broth -with vegetables, which I did not much relish, fowl with white sauce, -good roast lamb, very good potatoes, besides one or two other dishes, -which I did not taste, ending with a good tart of cranberries. After -dinner, I tried to write part of this account (but the talking round -me confused me), while Albert played at “patience.” Then went away, to -begin undressing, and it was about half-past eleven when we got to bed. - -[52] One of my wardrobe-maids, and daughter to the Page mentioned -earlier. - - - _Wednesday, September 5._ - -A misty, rainy morning. Had not slept very soundly. We got up rather -early, and sat working and reading in the drawing-room till the -breakfast was ready, for which we had to wait some little time. Good -tea and bread and butter, and some excellent porridge. Jane Shackle -(who was very useful and attentive) said that they had all supped -together, namely, the two maids, and Grant, Brown, Stewart, and Walker -(who was still there), and were very merry in the “commercial room.” -The people were very amusing about us. The woman came in while they -were at their dinner, and said to Grant, “Dr. Grey wants you,” which -nearly upset the gravity of all the others: then they told Jane, “Your -lady gives no trouble;” and Grant in the morning called up to Jane, -“Does his lordship want me?” One could look on the street, which is -a very long wide one, with detached houses, from our window. It was -perfectly quiet, no one stirring, except here and there a man driving a -cart, or a boy going along on his errand. General Grey bought himself a -watch in a shop for 2_l._! - -At length, at about ten minutes to ten o’clock, we started in the -same carriages and the same way as yesterday, and drove up to _Castle -Grant_, Lord Seafield’s place,--a fine (not Highland-looking) park, -with a very plain-looking house, like a factory, about two miles from -the town. It was drizzling almost the whole time. We did not get -out, but drove back, having to pass through _Grantown_ again; where -evidently “the murder was out,” for all the people were in the street, -and the landlady waved her pocket-handkerchief, and the ringletted maid -(who had curl-papers in the morning) waved a flag from the window. Our -coachman evidently did not observe or guess anything. As we drove out -of the town, turning to our right through a wood, we met many people -coming into the town, which the coachman said was for a funeral. -We passed over the _Spey_, by the _Bridge of Spey_. It continued -provokingly rainy, the mist hanging very low on the hills, which, -however, did not seem to be very high, but were pink with heather. We -stopped to have the cover of leather put over our carriage, which is -the fashion of all the flys here. It keeps out the rain, however, very -well. - -The first striking feature in this country is the _Pass of Dal Dhu_, -above which the road winds,--a steep corrie, with green hills. We -stopped at a small inn, with only one other house near it; and here -the poor wretchedly-jaded horses got a little water, and waited for -about ten minutes. Further on we came to a very steep hill, also to -a sort of pass, called _Glen Bruin_, with green hills, evidently of -slate formation. Here we got out, and walked down the hill, and over -the _Bridge of Bruin_, and partly up another hill, the road winding -amazingly after this--up and down hill. We then came in sight of the -_Avon_, winding below the hills; and again got out at a little wood, -before the _Bridge of Avon_; the river is fine and clear here. We -re-entered our carriages (Lady Churchill and I for this short time -together), and drove about a mile further up a hill to _Tomintoul_; our -poor horses being hardly able to drag themselves any longer, the man -whipping them and whistling to them to go on, which they could not, -and I thought every instant that they would stop in the village. We -took four hours to drive these 14 miles; for it was two o’clock when -we were outside the town, and got out to mount our ponies. _Tomintoul_ -is the most tumble-down, poor-looking place I ever saw--a long street -with three inns, miserable dirty-looking houses and people, and a sad -look of wretchedness about it. Grant told me that it was the dirtiest, -poorest village in the whole of the _Highlands_. - -We mounted our ponies a short way out of the town, but only rode for a -few minutes as it was past two o’clock. We came upon a beautiful view, -looking down upon the _Avon_ and up a fine glen. There we rested and -took luncheon. While Brown was unpacking and arranging our things, I -spoke to him and to Grant, who was helping, about not having waited on -us, as they ought to have done, at dinner last night and at breakfast, -as we had wished; and Brown answered, he was afraid he should not do it -rightly; I replied we did not wish to have a stranger in the room, and -they must do so another time. - -Luncheon (provisions for which we had taken with us from home -yesterday) finished, we started again, walked a little way, till we -were overtaken by the men and ponies, and then rode along _Avonside_, -the road winding at the bottom of the glen, which is in part tolerably -wide; but narrows as it turns, and winds round towards _Inchrory_, -where it is called _Glen Avon_. The hills, sloping down to the river -side, are beautifully green. It was very muggy--quite oppressive, -and the greater part of the road deep and sloppy, till we came upon -the granite formation again. In order to get on, as it was late, and -we had eight miles to ride, our men,--at least Brown and two of the -others,--walked before us at a fearful pace, so that we had to trot -to keep up at all. Grant rode frequently on the deer pony; the others -seemed, however, a good deal tired with the two long days’ journey, -and were glad to get on Albert’s or the General’s pony to give -themselves a lift; but their willingness, readiness, cheerfulness, -indefatigableness, are very admirable, and make them most delightful -servants. As for Grant and Brown they are perfect--discreet, careful, -intelligent, attentive, ever ready to do what is wanted; and the -latter, particularly, is handy and willing to do everything and -anything, and to overcome every difficulty, which makes him one of my -best servants anywhere. - -We passed by _Inchrory_--seeing, as we approached, two eagles towering -splendidly above, and alighting on the top of the hills. From -_Inchrory_, we rode to _Loch Bulig_, which was beautifully lit up by -the setting sun. From _Tomintoul_ we escaped all real rain, having -only a slight sprinkling every now and then. At _Loch Bulig_ we found -our carriage and four ponies, and drove back just as we left yesterday -morning, reaching _Balmoral_ safely at half-past seven. - -What a delightful, successful expedition! Dear Lady Churchill was, as -usual, thoroughly amiable, cheerful, and ready to do everything. Both -she and the General seemed entirely to enjoy it, and enter into it, -and so I am sure did our people. To my dear Albert do we owe it, for -he always thought it would be delightful, having gone on many similar -expeditions in former days himself. He enjoyed it very much. We heard -since that the secret came out through a man recognizing Albert in the -street yesterday morning; then the crown on the dog-cart made them -think that it was some one from _Balmoral_, though they never suspected -that it could be ourselves! “The lady must be terrible rich,” the -woman observed, as I had so many gold rings on my fingers!--I told -Lady Churchill she had on many more than I had. When they heard who it -was, they were ready to drop with astonishment and fright. I fear I -have but poorly recounted this very amusing and never to be forgotten -expedition, which will always be remembered with delight. - -I must pay a tribute to our ponies. Dear “Fyvie” is perfection, and -Albert’s equally excellent. - - - - -SECOND GREAT EXPEDITION:--TO INVERMARK AND FETTERCAIRN. - - - _Friday, September 20, 1861._ - -Looked anxiously at the weather at seven o’clock--there had been -a little rain, there was still mist on the hills, and it looked -doubtful. However, Albert said it would be best to keep to the original -arrangements, and so we got up early, and by eight the sun shone, and -the mist began to lift everywhere. We breakfasted at half-past eight, -and at half-past nine we started in two sociables--Alice and Louis[53] -with us in the first, and Grant on the box; Lady Churchill and General -Grey in the second, and Brown on the box. We drove to the _Bridge of -Muich_, where we found our six ponies, and five gillies (J. Smith, J. -Morgan, Kennedy, C. Stewart, and S. Campbell). We rode up the peat-road -over the hill of _Polach_ and down it again for about four miles, and -then came to a very soft bit; but still with careful management we -avoided getting into any of the bogs, and I remained on my pony all the -time. Albert and Louis had to get off and walk for about two hundred -yards. The hills of _Loch-na-Gar_ were very hazy, but _Mount Keen_ was -in great beauty before us, and as we came down to the _Glen of Corrie -Vruach_, and looked down _Glen Tanar_, the scenery was grand and wild. -_Mount Keen_ is a curious conical-shaped hill, with a deep corrie in -it. It is nearly 3,200 feet high, and we had a very steep rough ascent -over the shoulder, after crossing the _Tanar Water_. It was six and a -half miles from the _Bridge of Muich_ to _Corrie Vruach_. - -[53] Prince Louis of Hesse. - -When we were on the level ground again, where it was hard and dry, -we all got off and walked on over the shoulder of the hill. We had -not gone far when we descried Lord Dalhousie (whom General Grey had -in confidence informed of our coming) on a pony. He welcomed us on -the border of his “March,” got off his pony and walked with us. After -walking some little time Alice and I remounted our ponies, (Albert -riding some part of the time,) and turned to the left, when we came in -sight of a new country, and looked down a very fine glen--_Glen Mark_. -We descended by a very steep but winding path, called _The Ladder_, -very grand and wild: the water running through it is called _The Ladder -Burn_. It is very fine indeed, and very striking. There is a small -forester’s lodge at the very foot of it. The pass is quite a narrow -one; you wind along a very steep and rough path, but still it was quite -easy to ride on it, as it zigzags along. We crossed the burn at the -bottom, where a picturesque group of “shearers” were seated, chiefly -women, the older ones smoking. They were returning from the south to -the north, whence they came. We rode up to the little cottage; and in a -little room of a regular Highland cabin, with its usual “press bed,” we -had luncheon. This place is called _Invermark_, and is four and a half -miles from _Corrie Vruach_. After luncheon I sketched the fine view. -The steep hill we came down immediately opposite the keeper’s lodge is -called _Craig Boestock_, and a very fine isolated craggy hill which -rises to the left--over-topping a small and wild glen--is called the -_Hill of Doun_. - -We mounted our ponies a little after three, and rode down _Glen -Mark_, stopping to drink some water out of a very pure well, called -_The White Well_; and crossing the _Mark_ several times. As we -approached the _Manse of Loch Lee_, the glen widened, and the old -_Castle of Invermark_ came out extremely well; and, surrounded by -woods and corn-fields, in which the people were “shearing,” looked -most picturesque. We turned to the right, and rode up to the old -ruined castle, which is half covered with ivy. We then rode up to Lord -Dalhousie’s shooting-lodge, where we dismounted. It is a new and very -pretty house, built of granite, in a very fine position overlooking -the glen, with wild hills at the back. Miss Maule (now Lady C. Maule) -was there. We passed through the drawing-room, and went on a few yards -to the end of a walk whence you see _Loch Lee_, a wild, but not large, -lake closed in by mountains--with a farm-house and a few cottages at -its edge. The hall and dining-room are very prettily fitted up with -trophies of sport, and the walls panelled with light wood. We had a few -of the very short showers which hung about the hills. We then got into -our carriages. The carriage we were in was a sort of double dog-cart -which could carry eight--but was very narrow inside. We drove along -the glen--down by the _Northesk_ (the _Ey_ and _Mark_ meeting become -the _Northesk_), passing to the right another very pretty glen--_Glen -Effach_, much wooded, and the whole landscape beautifully lit up. -Before us all was light and bright, and behind the mist and rain seemed -to come down heavily over the mountains. - -Further on we passed _Poul Skeinnie Bridge_ and _Tarf Bridge_, both -regular steep Highland bridges. To the right of the latter there is a -new Free Kirk--further on _Captain Wemyss’s Retreat_, a strange-looking -place,--to the left _Mill Dane_--and, on a small eminence, the _Castle -of Auch Mill_, which now resembles an old farm-house, but has traces -of a terrace garden remaining. The hills round it and near the road to -the left were like small mounds. A little further on again we came to -a wood, where we got out and walked along _The Burn_, Major McInroy’s. -The path winds along through the wood just above this most curious -narrow gorge, which is unlike any of the other lynns; the rocks are -very peculiar, and the burn very narrow, with deep pools completely -overhung by wood. It extends some way. The woods and grounds might be -in _Wales_, or even in _Hawthornden_. We walked through the wood and -a little way along the road, till the carriages overtook us. We had -three miles further to drive to _Fettercairn_, in all 40 miles from -_Balmoral_. We came upon a flat country, evidently much cultivated, but -it was too dark to see anything. - -At a quarter-past seven o’clock we reached the small quiet town, -or rather village, of _Fettercairn_, for it was very small--not a -creature stirring, and we got out at the quiet little inn, “Ramsay -Arms,” quite unobserved, and went at once upstairs. There was a very -nice drawing-room, and next to it, a dining-room, both very clean and -tidy--then to the left our bed-room, which was excessively small, but -also very clean and neat, and much better furnished than at _Grantown_. -Alice had a nice room, the same size as ours; then came a mere morsel -of one, (with a “press bed,”) in which Albert dressed; and then came -Lady Churchill’s bed-room just beyond. Louis and General Grey had rooms -in an hotel, called “The Temperance Hotel,” opposite. We dined at -eight, a very nice, clean, good dinner. Grant and Brown waited. They -were rather nervous, but General Grey and Lady Churchill carved, and -they had only to change the plates, which Brown soon got into the way -of doing. A little girl of the house came in to help--but Grant turned -her round to prevent her looking at us! The landlord and landlady knew -who we were, but _no one else_ except the coachman, and they kept the -secret admirably. - -The evening being bright and moonlight and very still, we all went -out, and walked through the whole village, where not a creature -moved;--through the principal little square, in the middle of which -was a sort of pillar or Town Cross on steps, and Louis read, by the -light of the moon, a proclamation for collections of charities which -was stuck on it. We walked on along a lane a short way, hearing nothing -whatever--not a leaf moving--but the distant barking of a dog! Suddenly -we heard a drum and fifes! We were greatly alarmed, fearing we had been -recognized; but Louis and General Grey, who went back, saw nothing -whatever. Still, as we walked slowly back, we heard the noise from time -to time,--and when we reached the inn door we stopped, and saw six men -march up with fifes and a drum (not a creature taking any notice of -them), go down the street, and back again. Grant and Brown were out; -but had no idea what it could be. Albert asked the little maid, and -the answer was, “It’s just a band,” and that it walked about in this -way twice a week. How odd! It went on playing some time after we got -home. We sat till half-past ten working, and Albert reading,--and then -retired to rest. - - - _Saturday, September 21._ - -Got to sleep after two or three o’clock. The morning was dull and -close, and misty with a little rain; hardly any one stirring; but a -few people at their work. A traveller had arrived at night, and wanted -to come up into the dining-room, which is the “commercial travellers’ -room;” and they had difficulty in telling him he could _not_ stop -there. He joined Grant and Brown at their tea, and on his asking, -“What’s the matter here?” Grant answered, “It’s a wedding party from -_Aberdeen_.” At “The Temperance Hotel” they were very anxious to know -whom they had got. All, except General Grey, breakfasted a little -before nine. Brown acted as my servant, brushing my skirt and boots, -and taking any message, and Grant as Albert’s valet. - -At a quarter to ten we started the same way as before, except that -we were in the carriage which Lady Churchill and the General had -yesterday. It was unfortunately misty, and we could see no distance. -The people had just discovered who we were, and a few cheered us as we -went along. We passed close to _Fettercairn_, Sir J. Forbes’s house; -then further on to the left, _Fasque_, belonging to Sir T. Gladstone, -who has evidently done a great deal for the country, having built -many good cottages. We then came to a very long hill, at least four -miles in length, called the _Cairnie Month_, whence there is a very -fine view; but which was entirely obscured by a heavy driving mist. -We walked up part of it, and then for a little while Alice and I sat -alone in the carriage. We next came to the _Spittal Bridge_, a curious -high bridge with the _Dye Water_ to the left, and the _Spittal Burn_ to -the right. Sir T. Gladstone’s shooting-place is close to the _Bridge -of Dye_--where we changed carriages again, re-entering the double -dog-cart--Albert and I inside, and Louis sitting behind. We went -up a hill again and saw _Mount Battock_ to the north-west, close to -Sir T. Gladstone’s shooting-lodge. You then come to an open country, -with an extensive view towards _Aberdeen_, and to a very deep, rough -ford, where you pass the _Feugh_, at a place called _White Stones_. -It is very pretty and a fine glen with wood. About two miles further -to the north-west, on the left, is _Finzean_; and, a little beyond, -is “King Durdun’s Stone,” as they call it, by the roadside--a large, -heavy, ancient stone,--the history of which, however, we have not yet -discovered. Then we passed _Mary’s Well_, to the left of which is -_Ballogie House_, a fine property belonging to Mr. Dyce Nicol. The -harvest and everything seemed prosperous, and the country was very -pretty. We got out at a very small village, (where the horses had some -water, for it was a terribly long stage,) and walked a little way -along the road. Alice, Lady Churchill, and I, went into the house of a -tailor, which was very tidy, and the woman in it most friendly, asking -us to rest there; but not dreaming who we were. - -We drove on again, watching ominous-looking clouds, which, however, -cleared off afterwards. We saw the woods of Lord Huntly’s forest, and -the hills which one sees from the road to _Aboyne_. Instead of going -on to _Aboyne_ we turned to the left, leaving the _Bridge of Aboyne_ -(which we had not seen before) to the right. A little beyond this, out -of sight of all habitations, we found the postmaster, with another -carriage for us. This was 22 miles from _Fettercairn_. We crossed -the _Tanar Water_, and drove to the left up _Glen Tanar_--a really -beautiful and richly-wooded glen, between high hills--part of Lord -Huntly’s forest. We drove on about six miles, and then stopped, as it -was past two, to get our luncheon. The day kept quite fair in spite of -threatening clouds and gathering mist. The spot where we lunched was -very pretty. This over, we walked on a little, and then got into the -carriages again, and drove to the end of the glen--out of the trees to -_Eatnoch_, on to a keeper’s house in the glen--a very lonely place, -where our ponies were. It was about four when we arrived. A wretched -idiot girl was here by herself, as tall as Lady Churchill; but a good -deal bent, and dressed like a child, with a pinafore and short-cut -hair. She sat on the ground with her hands round her knees, rocking -herself to and fro and laughing; she then got up and walked towards us. -General Grey put himself before me, and she went up to him, and began -taking hold of his coat, and putting her hand into his pockets, which -set us all off laughing, sad as it was. An old man walked up hastily -soon after, and on Lady Churchill asking him if he knew that poor girl, -he said, “Yes, she belongs to me, she has a weakness in her mind;” and -led her off hurriedly. - -We walked on a few hundred yards, and then mounted our ponies a little -higher up, and then proceeded across the other shoulder of the hill -we had come down yesterday--crossed the boggy part, and came over the -_Polach_ just as in going. The mist on the distant hills, _Mount Keen_, -&c., made it feel chilly. Coming down the peat-road[54] to the _Bridge -of Muich_, the view of the valleys of _Muich_, _Gairn_, and _Ballater_ -was beautiful. As we went along I talked frequently with good Grant. - -[54] Grant told me in May, 1862, that, when the Prince stopped behind -with him, looking at the Choils which he intended as a deer-forest for -the Prince of Wales, and giving his directions as to the planting in -Glen Muich, he said to Grant,—“You and I may be dead and gone before -that.” In less than three months, alas! his words were verified as -regards himself! He was ever cheerful, but ever ready and prepared. - -We found my dearest Mother’s sociable, a fine large one, which she -has left to Albert, waiting to take us back. It made me very sad, and -filled my eyes with tears. Oh, in the midst of cheerfulness, I feel so -sad! But being out a great deal here--and seeing new and fine scenery, -does me good. - -We got back to _Balmoral_, much pleased with our expedition, at seven -o’clock. We had gone 42 miles to-day, and 40 yesterday, in all 82. - - - - -EXPEDITION TO LOCH AVON. - - - _Saturday, September 28, 1861._ - -Looked out very anxiously. A doubtful morning; still gleams of -sunshine burst through the mist, and it seemed improving all round. -We breakfasted at a quarter to eight, with Alice and Louis, in our -sitting-room; and started at half-past eight. Louis and Alice with us, -Grant and Brown on the box, as usual. The morning greatly improved. - -We drove along the north side of the river, the day clearing very much, -and becoming really fine. We took post-horses at _Castleton_, and drove -up to the _Derry_ (the road up _Glen Luie_ very bad indeed); and here -we mounted our ponies, and proceeded the usual way up _Glen Derry_, -as far as where the path turns up to _Loch Etchan_. Instead of going -that way, we proceeded straight on--a dreadfully rough, stony road, -though not steep, but rougher than anything we ever rode upon before, -and terrible for the poor horses’ feet. We passed by two little lakes -called the _Dhoolochans_, opposite to where the glen runs down to -_Inchrory_, and after crossing them, there was a short boggy bit, where -I got off and walked some way on the opposite side, along the “brae” -of the hill, on the other side of which the loch lies, and then got -on again. It was so saturated with water, that the moss and grass and -everything were soaked,--not very pleasant riding, particularly as it -was along the slope of the hill. We went on and on, nearly two miles -from the foot of this hill, expecting to see the loch, but another low -hill hid it from us, till at length we came in sight of it; and nothing -could be grander and wilder--the rocks are so grand and precipitous, -and the snow on _Ben Muich Dhui_ had such a fine effect. - -We saw the spot at the foot of _Loch Etchan_ to which we scrambled last -year, and looked down upon _Loch Avon_. It was very cold and windy. -At length, at a quarter-past two, we sat down behind a large stone a -little above the loch (unfortunately, we could not go to the extreme -end, where the water rushes into it). We lunched as quickly as we -could, and then began walking back, and crossed the hill higher up than -in coming. I walked for some time, but it was not easy, from the great -wet and the very uneven ground. Good Louis helped me often; Albert -and Alice running along without assistance. Remounted my pony, which, -as well as Albert’s, went beautifully, carefully led by that most -attentive of servants, Brown. I had again to get off before we crossed -by the _Dhoolochans_; but after that we rode back the whole way. - -We had the same guide, Charlie Stewart, who took us to _Glen Fishie_ -last year, and who walks wonderfully. We had two slight showers going -down, and saw that there had been much more rain below. We found the -_Ford of the Derry_ very deep, nearly up to the ponies’ girths; and -the roughness and stoniness of the road is beyond everything, but the -ponies picked their way like cats. We were down at the _Derry_ by -nearly six o’clock; the distance to _Loch Avon_ being ten miles. Found -our carriages there: it was already getting darkish, but still it was -quite light enough to enable the post-boys to see their way. - -At the bridge at _Mar Lodge_, Brown lit the lanterns. We gave him and -Grant our plaids to put on, as we always do when they have walked -a long way with us and drive afterwards. We took our own horses at -_Castleton_, and reached _Balmoral_ at ten minutes past eight, much -pleased with the success of our expedition, and really _not_ tired. We -dined _en famille_. - - - - -THIRD GREAT EXPEDITION:--TO GLEN FISHIE, DALWHINNIE, AND BLAIR ATHOLE. - - - _Tuesday, October 8, 1861._ - -The morning was dull and rather overcast; however, we decided to go. -General Grey had gone on before. We three ladies drove in the sociable: -Albert and Louis in a carriage from _Castleton_. The clouds looked -heavy and dark, though not like mist hanging on the mountains. Down -came a heavy shower; but before we reached _Castleton_ it cleared; blue -sky appeared; and, as there was much wind, Grant thought all would -be well, and the day very fine. Changed horses at _Castleton_, and -drove beyond the _Linn of Dee_ to the _Giuly_ or _Geldie Water_--just -where last year we mounted our ponies, 18 miles from _Balmoral_. Here -we found our ponies--“Inchrory” for me, and a new pony for Alice--a -tall grey one, ugly but safe. The others rode their usual ones. The -same guide, Charlie Stewart, was there, and a pony for the luncheon -panniers, and a spare one for Grant and others to ride in turn. - -We started about ten minutes past eleven, and proceeded exactly as last -year, fording the _Geldie_ at first very frequently. The ground was -wet, but not worse than last year. We had gone on very well for about -an hour, when the mist thickened all round, and down came heavy, or -at least beating, rain with wind. With the help of an umbrella, and -waterproofs and a plaid, I kept quite dry. Dearest Albert, who walked -from the time the ground became boggy, got very wet, but was none -the worse for it, and we got through it much better than before; we -ladies never having to get off our ponies. At length at two o’clock, -just as we were entering that beautiful _Glen Fishie_, which at its -commencement reminds one of _The Burn_ (McInroy’s), it cleared and -became quite fine and very mild. Brown waded through the _Etchart_ -leading my pony; and then two of the others, who were riding together -on another pony, dropped the whole bundle of cloaks into the water! - -The falls of the _Stron-na-Barin_, with that narrow steep glen, which -you ride up, crossing at the bottom, were in great beauty. We stopped -before we entered the wood, and lunched on the bank overhanging the -river, where General Grey joined us, and gave us an account of his -arrangements. We lunched rather hurriedly, remounted our ponies and -rode a short way--till we came near to a very steep place, not very -pleasant to ride. So fine! numberless little burns running down in -cascades. We walked a short way, and then remounted our ponies; but as -we were to keep on the other side of the river, not by the _Invereshie_ -huts, we had to get off for a few hundred yards, the path being so -narrow as to make it utterly unsafe to ride. Alice’s pony already -began to slip. The huts, surrounded by magnificent fir-trees, and by -quantities of juniper-bushes, looked lovelier than ever; and we gazed -with sorrow at their utter ruin. I felt what a delightful little -encampment it must have been, and how enchanting to live in such a spot -as this beautiful solitary wood in a glen surrounded by the high hills. -We got off, and went into one of the huts to look at a fresco of stags -of Landseer’s, over a chimney-piece. Grant, on a pony, led me through -the _Fishie_ (all the fords are deep) at the foot of the farm-houses, -where we met Lord and Lady Alexander Russell last year--and where we -this time found two carriages. We dismounted and entered them, and were -off at five o’clock--we were to have started at four. - -We four drove together by the same way as we rode last year (and -nothing could be rougher for driving), quite to the second wood, which -led us past _Loch Inch_; but we turned short of the loch to the left -along the high road. Unfortunately by this time it was nearly dark, -and we therefore lost a great deal of the fine scenery. We had ridden -15 miles. We drove along the road over several bridges--the _Bridge of -Carr_, close below the ruined _Castle of Ruthven_, which we could just -descry in the dusk--and on a long wooden bridge over the _Spey_ to an -inn at _Kingussie_, a very straggling place with very few cottages. -Already, before we arrived there, we were struck by people standing -at their cottage doors, and evidently looking out, which made us -believe we were expected. At _Kingussie_ there was a small, curious, -chattering crowd of people--who, however, did not really make us out, -but evidently suspected who we were. Grant and Brown kept them off -the carriages, and gave them evasive answers, directing them to the -wrong carriage, which was most amusing. One old gentleman, with a high -wide-awake, was especially inquisitive. - -We started again, and went on and on, passing through the village of -_Newtonmoore_, where the footman McDonald[55] comes from. Here the -_Spey_ is crossed at its junction with the _Truim_, and then the road -ascends for ten miles more to _Dalwhinnie_. It became cold and windy -with occasional rain. At length, and not till a quarter to nine, we -reached the inn of _Dalwhinnie_,--29 miles from where we had left our -ponies,--which stands by itself, away from any village. Here, again, -there were a few people assembled, and I thought they knew us; but it -seems they did not, and it was only when we arrived that one of the -maids recognized me. She had seen me at _Aberdeen_ and _Edinburgh_. -We went upstairs: the inn was much larger than at _Fettercairn_, -but not nearly so nice and cheerful; there was a drawing-room and -a dining-room; and we had a very good-sized bed-room. Albert had a -dressing-room of equal size. Mary Andrews[56] (who was very useful and -efficient) and Lady Churchill’s maid had a room together, every one -being in the house; but unfortunately there was hardly anything to eat, -and there was only tea, and two miserable starved Highland chickens, -without any potatoes! No pudding, and no _fun_; no little maid (the two -there not wishing to come in), nor our two people--who were wet and -drying our and their things--to wait on us! It was not a nice supper; -and the evening was wet. As it was late we soon retired to rest. Mary -and Maxted (Lady Churchill’s maid) had been dining below with Grant, -Brown, and Stewart (who came, the same as last time, with the maids) -in the “commercial room” at the foot of the stairs. They had only the -remnants of our two starved chickens! - -[55] He died at Abergeldie last year of consumption; and his widow, an -excellent person, daughter of Mitchell the blacksmith at Balmoral, is -now my wardrobe-maid. - -[56] One of my wardrobe-maids--now dresser to Princess Helena -(Princess Christian). Her father was thirty-eight years with my dear -uncle the King of the Belgians. - - - _Wednesday, October 9._ - -A bright morning, which was very charming. Albert found, on getting up, -that Cluny Macpherson, with his piper and two ladies, had arrived quite -early in the morning; and, while we were dressing, we heard a drum and -fife--and discovered that the newly-formed volunteers had arrived--all -indicating that we were discovered. However, there was scarcely any -population, and it did not signify. The fat old landlady had put on -a black satin dress, with white ribbons and orange flowers! We had -breakfast at a quarter to nine o’clock; at half-past nine we started. -Cluny was at the door with his wife and daughters with nosegays, -and the volunteers were drawn up in front of the inn. They had all -assembled since Saturday afternoon! - -We drove as we did yesterday. Fine and very wild scenery, high wild -hills, and no habitations. We went by the _Pass of Drumouchter_, with -fine hills on both sides and in front of us; passed between two, the -one on our left called _The Boar of Badenoch_, and that on the right, -_The Athole Sow_. The _Pass of Drumouchter_ separates _Perthshire_ from -_Inverness-shire_. - -Again, a little farther on, we came to _Loch Garry_, which is very -beautiful--but the mist covered the furthest hills, and the extreme -distance was clouded. There is a small shooting-lodge, or farm, -charmingly situated, looking up the glen on both sides, and with the -loch in front; we did not hear to whom it belonged. We passed many -drovers, without their herds and flocks, returning, Grant told us, from -_Falkirk_. We had one very heavy shower after _Loch Garry_ and before -we came to _Dalnacardoch Inn_, 13 miles from _Dalwhinnie_. The road -goes beside the _Garry_. The country for a time became flatter; but was -a good deal cultivated. At _Dalnacardoch Inn_ there was a suspicion -and expectation of our arrival. Four horses with smart postilions were -in waiting; but, on General Grey’s saying that this was _not_ the -party, but the one for whom only two horses had been ordered, a shabby -pair of horses were put in; a shabby driver driving from the box (as -throughout this journey), and off we started. - -The _Garry_ is very fine, rolling along over large stones--like the -_Quoich_ and the _Fishie_, and forming perpetual falls, with birch -and mountain-ash growing down to the water’s edge. We had some more -heavy showers. A few miles from _Dalnacardoch_ the Duke of Athole (in -his kilt and shooting-jacket, as usual) met us on a pretty little -chestnut pony, and rode the whole time near the carriage. He said, -there were vague suspicions and rumours of our coming, but he had told -no one anything. There was again a shower, but it cleared when we came -in sight of _Ben-y-Ghlo_, and the splendid _Pass of Killiekrankie_, -which, with the birch all golden,--not, as on _Deeside_, bereft of -leaves,--looked very beautiful. - -We passed by the _Bruar_, and the road to the _Falls of the Bruar_, -but could not stop. The Duke took us through a new approach, which -is extremely pretty; but near which, I cannot help regretting, the -railroad will come, as well as along the road by which we drove through -the _Pass of Drumouchter_. The Duke has made great improvements, -and the path looked beautiful, surrounded as it is by hills; and -the foliage still full, though in all its autumn tints--the whole -being lit up with bright sunshine. We drove through an avenue, and -in a few minutes more were at the door of the old castle. A thousand -recollections of seventeen years ago crowded upon me--all seemed so -familiar again! No one there except the dear Duchess, who stood at the -door, and whom I warmly embraced; and Miss Mac Gregor. How well I -recognized the hall with all the sporting trophies; and the staircase, -which we went up at once. The Duchess took us to a room which I -recognized immediately as the one where Lady Canning lived. There we -took off our things--then went to look at the old and really very -handsome rooms in which we had lived--the one in which Vicky had slept -in two chairs, then not four years old! In the dining-room we took some -coffee, which was most welcome; and then we looked at all the stags’ -horns put up in one of the corridors below; saw the Duke’s pet dog, a -smooth-haired black terrier, very fat; and then got into the carriage, -a very peculiar one, viz., a _boat_--a mere boat (which is very light), -put on four wheels, drawn by a pair of horses with a postilion. -Into this we four got, with the Duke and Duchess and the dog;--Lady -Churchill, General Grey, and Miss Mac Gregor going in another carriage; -with our two servants on the box, to whom all this was quite new and -a great treat. The morning was beautiful. It was half-past twelve--we -drove up by the avenue and about a favourite walk of ours in ’44, -passed through the gate, and came on to _Glen Tilt_--which is most -striking, the road winding along, first on one side of the _Tilt_, and -then on the other; the fine high hills rising very abruptly from each -side of the rapid, rocky, stony river _Tilt_--the trees, chiefly birch -and alder, overhanging the water. - -We passed the _Marble Lodge_, in which one of the keepers lives, and -came to _Forest Lodge_, where the road for carriages ends, and the -glen widens. There were our ponies, which had passed the night at the -_Bainoch_ or _Beynoch_ (a shooting “shiel” of Lord Fife’s). They came -over this morning; but, poor beasts, without having had any corn! -_Forest Lodge_ is eight miles from _Blair_. There we took leave of the -dear Duchess; and saw old Peter Frazer, the former head-keeper there, -now walking with the aid of two sticks! The Duke’s keepers were there, -his pipers, and a gentleman staying on a visit with him. - -It was barely two o’clock when we started. We on our ponies, the Duke -and his men (twelve altogether) on foot--Sandy McAra, now head-keeper, -grown old and grey, and two pipers, preceded us; the two latter playing -alternately the whole time, which had a most cheerful effect. The wild -strains sounded so softly amid those noble hills; and our caravan -winding along--our people and the Duke’s all in kilts, and the ponies, -made altogether a most picturesque scene. - -One of the Duke’s keepers, Donald Macbeath, is a guardsman, and was in -the _Crimea_. He is a celebrated marksman, and a fine-looking man, as -all the Duke’s men are. For some little time it was easy riding, but -soon we came to a rougher path, more on the “brae” of the hill, where -the pony required to be led, which I always have done, either when it -is at all rough or bad, or when the pony has to be got on faster. - -The Duke walked near me the greater part of the time; amusingly saying, -in reference to former times, that he did not offer to lead me, as he -knew I had no confidence in him. I replied, laughingly, “Oh, no, only I -like best being led by the person I am accustomed to.” - -At length, at about three, we stopped, and lunched at a place called -_Dalcronachie_, looking up a glen towards _Loch Loch_--on a high bank -overhanging the _Tilt_. Looking back the view was very fine; so, while -the things were being unpacked for lunch, we sketched. We brought our -own luncheon, and the remainder was as usual given to the men, but -this time there were a great many to feed. After luncheon we set off -again. I walked a few paces; but as it was very wet, and the road very -rough, by Albert’s desire I got on again. A very few minutes brought -us to the celebrated ford of the _Tarff_, (_Poll Tarff_ it is called,) -which is very deep--and after heavy rain almost impassable. The Duke -offered to lead the pony on one side, and talked of Sandy for the other -side, but I asked for Brown (whom I have far the most confidence in) -to lead the pony, the Duke taking hold of it (as he did frequently) on -the other side. Sandy McAra, the guide, and the two pipers went first, -playing all the time. To all appearance the ford of the _Tarff_ was not -deeper than the other fords, but once in it the men were above their -knees--and suddenly in the middle, where the current, from the fine, -high, full falls, is very strong, it was nearly up to the men’s waists. -Here Sandy returned, and I said to the Duke (which he afterwards -joked with Sandy about) that I thought he (Sandy) had better take the -Duke’s place; he did so, and we came very well through, all the others -following, the men chiefly wading--Albert (close behind me) and the -others riding through--and some of our people coming over double on the -ponies. General Grey had little Peter Robertson up behind him. - -The road after this became almost precipitous, and indeed made riding -very unpleasant; but being wet, and difficult to walk, we ladies rode, -Albert walking the greater part of the time. Only once, for a very few -steps, I had to get off, as the pony could hardly keep its footing. As -it was, Brown constantly could not walk next to the pony, but had to -scramble below, or pull it after him. The Duke was indefatigable. - -[Illustration: FORDING THE POLL TARF. - -_After a Drawing by Carl Haag._] - -The _Tilt_ becomes narrower and narrower, till its first source is -almost invisible. The _Tarff_ flows into the _Tilt_, about two miles -or more beyond the falls. We emerged from the pass upon an open -valley--with less high hills and with the hills of _Braemar_ before us. -We crossed the _Bainoch_ or _Bynack_, quite a small stream, and when -we came to the “County March”--where _Perth_ and _Aberdeen_ join--we -halted. The Duke gave Albert and me some whisky to drink, out of an -old silver flask of his own, and then made a short speech proposing my -health, expressing the pleasure with which he and all had received me -at _Blair_, and hoping that I would return as often as I liked, and -that I should have a safe return home; ending by the true Highland -“Nis! nis! nis! Sit air a-nis! A-ris! a-ris! a-ris!” (pronounced: -“Neesh! neesh! neesh! Sheet eir, a-neesh! A-rees! a-rees! a-rees!”) -which means: “Now! now! now! That to him, now! Again! again! again!” -which was responded to by cheering from all. Grant then proposed “three -cheers for the Duke of Athole,” which was also very warmly responded -to;--my pony (good “Inchrory”), which went admirably, rather resenting -the vehemence of Brown’s cheering. - -We then went on again for about three miles to the _Bainoch_, which we -reached at ten minutes to six, when it was already nearly dark. As we -approached the “shiel,” the pipers struck up, and played. The ponies -went so well with the pipes, and altogether it was very pleasant to -ride and walk with them. They played “the Athole Highlanders” when we -started, and again in coming in. - -Lady Fife had very kindly come down to the _Bainoch_ herself, where she -gave us tea, which was very welcome. We then got into our carriages, -wishing the good Duke of Athole good-by. He was going back the whole -way--which was certainly rather a hazardous proceeding, at least an -adventurous one, considering the night, and that there was no moon--and -what the road was! We got home safely at a quarter-past eight. The -night was quite warm, though slightly showery--but became very clear -and starlight later. - -We had travelled 69 miles to-day, and 60 yesterday. This was the -pleasantest and most enjoyable expedition I _ever_ made; and the -recollection of it will always be most agreeable to me, and increase my -wish to make more! Was so glad dear Louis (who is a charming companion) -was with us. Have enjoyed nothing as much, or indeed felt so much -cheered by anything, since my great sorrow.[57] Did not feel tired. We -ladies did not dress, and dined _en famille_; looking at maps of the -_Highlands_ after dinner. - -[57] The death of the Duchess of Kent. - - - - -LAST EXPEDITION. - - - _Wednesday, October 16, 1861._ - -To our great satisfaction it was a most beautiful morning. Not a cloud -was on the bright blue sky, and it was perfectly calm. There had been -a sharp frost which lay on parts of the grass, and the mountains were -beautifully lit up, with those very blue shades upon them, like the -bloom on a plum. Up early, and breakfasted with Alice, Louis, and -Lenchen, in our room. At twenty minutes to nine o’clock we started, -with Alice, Lenchen, and Louis. The morning was beyond everything -splendid, and the country in such beauty, though the poor trees are -nearly leafless. - -Near _Castleton_, and indeed all along the road, in the shade, the -frost still lay, and the air was very sharp. We took post-horses at -_Castleton_, and proceeded up _Glen Clunie_ to _Glen Callater_, which -looked lovely, and which Albert admired much. In a little more than -two hours we were at _Loch Callater_--the road was very bad indeed as -we approached the loch, where our ponies were waiting for us. After -walking a few paces we remounted them, I on my good “Fyvie,” and Alice -on “Inchrory.” - -The day was glorious--and the whole expedition delightful, and very -easily performed. We ascended _Little Cairn Turc_, on the north side -of _Loch Callater_, up a sort of footpath very easy and even, upon -ground that was almost flat, rising very gradually, but imperceptibly; -and the view became wonderfully extensive. The top of _Cairn Turc_ is -quite flat--with moss and grass--so that you could drive upon it. It is -very high, for you see the high table-land behind the highest point of -_Loch-na-Gar_. On that side you have no view; but from the other it is -wonderfully extensive. It was so clear and bright, and so still there, -reminding us of the day on _Ben Muich Dhui_ last year. - -There rose immediately behind us _Ben Muich Dhui_, which you hardly -ever see, and the shape of which is not fine, with its surrounding -mountains of _Cairngorm_, _Brae Riach_, _Ben Avon_ or _A’an_, -_Ben-na-Bhourd_, &c. We saw _Ben-y-Ghlo_ quite clearly, and all that -range of hills; then, further west, _Shichallion_, near _Loch Tay_; the -mountains which are near the _Black Mount_; and, quite on the horizon, -we could discern _Ben Nevis_, which is above _Fort William_. - -Going up _Cairn Turc_ we looked down upon _Loch Canter_, a small loch -above _Loch Callater_, very wild and dark. We proceeded to _Cairn -Glaishie_, at the extreme point of which a cairn has been erected. We -got off to take a look at the wonderful panorama which lay stretched -out before us. We looked on _Fifeshire_, and the country between -_Perth_ and _Stirling_, the _Lomond Hills_, &c. It was beautifully -clear, and really it was most interesting to look over such an immense -extent of the _Highlands_. I give a very poor description of it; but -here follows a rough account of the places we saw:— - -To the North--_Ben Muich Dhui_, _Brae Riach_, _Cairngorm_, _Ben Avon_, -_Ben-na-Bhourd_. - -To the East--_Loch-na-Gar_, &c. - -To the South-West--_Ben-y-Ghlo_ or _Ben-y-Gloe_, and the surrounding -hills beyond _Shichallion_, and the mountains between _Dunkeld_ and the -_Black Mount_. - -Quite in the extreme West--_Ben Nevis_. - -To the South--the _Lomond Hills_; _Perth_ in the middle distance. - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON AT CAIRN LOCHAN. - -_After a Drawing by Carl Haag._] - -We walked on a little way, and then I got upon my pony. Another half -hour’s riding again over such singular flat table-land, brought us on -to the edge of the valley of _Cairn Lochan_, which is indeed “a bonnie -place.” It reminded me and Louis of _Clova_; only there one did not -see the immense extent of mountains behind. _Cairn Lochan_ is a narrow -valley, the river _Isla_ winding through it like a silver ribbon, with -trees at the bottom. The hills are green and steep, but towards the -head of the valley there are fine precipices. We had then to take a -somewhat circuitous route in order to avoid some bogs, and to come to -a spot where we looked right up the valley for an immense distance; to -the left, or rather more to the south, was _Glen Isla_, another glen, -but wider, and not with the same high mountains as _Cairn Lochan_. -Beyond _Glen Isla_ were seen the _Lomond Hills_ behind _Kinross_, at -the foot of which is _Loch Leven_. - -We sat on a very precipitous place, which made one dread any one’s -moving backwards; and here, at a little before two o’clock, we lunched. -The lights were charmingly soft, and, as I said before, like the bloom -on a plum. The luncheon was very acceptable, for the air was extremely -keen, and we found ice thicker than a shilling on the top of _Cairn -Turc_, which did not melt when Brown took it and kept it in his hand. - -Helena was so delighted, for this was _the only really great_ -expedition in which she had accompanied us. - -Duncan and the keeper at _Loch Callater_ (R. Stewart) went with us as -guides. - - -I made some hasty sketches; and then Albert wrote on a bit of paper -that we had lunched here, put it into the Selters-water bottle, and -buried it there, or rather stuck it into the ground. Grant had done -the same when we visited _Ben Muich Dhui_ the first time. This over, -we walked part of the way back which we had ridden to avoid the -bogs,--we ladies walking only a short way, and then riding. We altered -our course, and left _Cairn Glaishie_ to our right, and went in the -direction of the _Cairn Wall_. Looking back on the distant hills above -_Glen Isla_ and _Cairn Lochan_ (Lord Airlie’s “Country”), it was even -more beautiful; for, as the day advanced, the mountains became clearer -and clearer, of a lovely blue, while the valleys were in shadow. -_Shichallion_, and those further ranges, were also most perfectly to -be seen, and gave me such a longing for further Highland expeditions! -We went over _Garbchory_, looking down on the road to the _Spittal_; -and on the lower mountains, which are most curiously connected one with -another, and which, from the height we were, we could look down upon. - -Here follows the account of our route, with all the names as written -down by Duncan. I cannot “mind” the names, as they say here. - - From _Balmoral_ to-- - - _Loch Callater_, four miles, - Left _Loch Callater_ at 11 o’clock, A.M., - _Little Cairn Turc_, - _Big Cairn Turc_, - _Loch Canter_, - _Cairn Glaishie_, - _Cairn Lochan_, - _Ca-Ness_, six miles. - - Returning route:— - - _Cairn Lochan_, - _Cairn Glashie_, - _Garb Chory_, - _Month Eigie Road_, - _Glass Meall_, - _Fian Chory_, - _Aron Ghey_, - _Shean Spittal Bridge_, 4.30 P.M., - _Shean Spittal Bridge_ to _Balmoral_, 16 miles. - -This gave one a very good idea of the geography of the country, which -delighted dear Albert, as this expedition was quite in a different -direction from any that we had ever made before. But my head is so very -ungeographical, that I cannot describe it. We came down by the _Month -Eigie_, a steep hill covered with grass--down part of which I rode, -walking where it was steepest; but it was so wet and slippery that I -had two falls. We got down to the road to the _Spittal Bridge_, about -15 miles from _Castleton_, at nearly half-past four, and then down -along the new road, at least that part of it which is finished, and -which is to extend to the _Cairn Wall_. We went back on our side of -the river; and if we had been a little earlier, Albert might have got -a stag--but it was too late. The moon rose and shone most beautifully, -and we returned at twenty minutes to seven o’clock, much pleased and -interested with this delightful expedition. Alas! I fear our _last_ -great one! - - -(IT WAS OUR LAST ONE!--1867.) - - - - -_TOURS_ - -_in_ - -_ENGLAND AND IRELAND,_ - -_and_ - -_YACHTING EXCURSIONS._ - - - - -FIRST VISIT TO IRELAND. - - - _On Board the Victoria and Albert, - in the Cove of Cork, - Thursday, August 2, 1849._ - -Arrived here after a quick but not very pleasant passage. The day was -fine and bright, and the sea to all appearance very smooth; but there -was a dreadful swell, which made one incapable of reading or doing -anything. We passed the _Land’s End_ at nine o’clock in the morning. -When we went on deck after eight in the evening, we were close to -the _Cove of Cork_, and could see many bonfires on the hill, and the -rockets and lights that were sent off from the different steamers. The -harbour is immense, though the land is not very high, and entering by -twilight it had a very fine effect. Lady Jocelyn, Miss Dawson, Lord -Fortescue (Lord Steward), Sir George Grey (Secretary of State for the -Home Department), Miss Hildyard, Sir James Clark, and Mr. Birch are on -board with us. The equerries, Colonel Phipps and Colonel Gordon, are on -board the “Black Eagle.” - - - _Friday, August 3._ - -The day was grey and excessively “muggy,” which is the character of the -Irish climate. The ships saluted at eight o’clock, and the “Ganges” -(the flag-ship and a three-decker) and the “Hogue” (a three-decker cut -down, with very heavy guns, and with a screw put into her), which are -both very near us, made a great noise. The harbour is very extensive, -and there are several islands in it, one of which is very large. _Spike -Island_ is immediately opposite us, and has a convict prison; near it -another island with the depôt, &c. In a line with that is the town of -_Cove_, picturesquely built up a hill. The two war-steamers have only -just come in. The Admiral (Dixon) and the Captains of the vessels came -on board. Later, Lord Bandon (Lord-Lieutenant of the county), Lord -Thomond, General Turner, Commander of the Forces at Cork, presented -their respects, and Albert went on shore, and I occupied myself in -writing and sketching. Albert returned before our luncheon, and had -been walking about and visiting some of the cabins. - -We left the yacht at two with the ladies and gentlemen, and went on -board the “Fairy,” which was surrounded with rowing and sailing boats. -We first went round the harbour, all the ships saluting, as well as -numbers of steamers and yachts. We then went into _Cove_ and lay -alongside the landing-place, which was very prettily decorated; and -covered with people; and yachts, ships and boats crowding all round. -The two Members, Messrs. Roche and Power, as well as other gentlemen, -including the Roman Catholic and Protestant clergymen, and then the -members of the Yacht Club, presented addresses. After which, to give -the people the satisfaction of calling the place _Queenstown_, in -honour of its being the first spot on which I set foot upon Irish -ground, I stepped on shore amidst the roar of cannon (for the artillery -were placed so close as quite to shake the temporary room which we -entered); and the enthusiastic shouts of the people. We immediately -re-embarked and proceeded up the river _Lee_ towards _Cork_. It is -extremely pretty and richly wooded, and reminded me of the _Tamar_. -The first feature of interest we passed was a little bathing-place, -called _Monkstown_, and later _Blackrock Castle_, at which point we -stopped to receive a salmon, and a very pretty address from the poor -fishermen of _Blackrock_. - -As we approached the city we saw people streaming in, on foot, on -horseback, and many in jaunting-cars. When we reached _Cork_ the -“Fairy” again lay alongside, and we received all the addresses: first, -from the Mayor and Corporation (I knighted the Mayor immediately -afterwards), then from the Protestant Bishop and clergy; from the Roman -Catholic Bishop and clergy; from the Lord-Lieutenant of the county, -the Sheriffs, and others. The two Judges, who were holding their -courts, also came on board in their robes. After all this was over we -landed, and walked some few paces on to where Lord Bandon’s carriage -was ready to receive us. The ladies went with us, and Lord Bandon and -the General rode on each side of the carriage. The Mayor preceded us, -and many (Lord Listowel among the number,) followed on horseback or -in carriages. The 12th Lancers escorted us, and the Pensioners and -Infantry lined the streets. - -I cannot describe our route, but it will suffice to say that it took -two hours; that we drove through the principal streets; twice through -some of them; that they were densely crowded, decorated with flowers -and triumphal arches; that the heat and dust were great; that we passed -by the new College which is building--one of the four which are ordered -by Act of Parliament; that our reception was most enthusiastic; and -that everything went off to perfection, and was very well arranged. -_Cork_ is not at all like an English town, and looks rather foreign. - -The crowd is a noisy, excitable, but very good-humoured one, running -and pushing about, and laughing, talking, and shrieking. The beauty -of the women is very remarkable, and struck us much; such beautiful -dark eyes and hair, and such fine teeth; almost every third woman was -pretty, and some remarkably so. They wear no bonnets, and generally -long blue cloaks; the men are very poorly, often raggedly dressed; and -many wear blue coats and short breeches with blue stockings. - -We re-embarked at the same place and returned just as we came. - - - _Kingstown Harbour, Dublin Bay, - Sunday, August 5._ - -Safely arrived here: I now continue my account. For the first two hours -and a half the sea, though rough, was not disagreeable. We entered -_Waterford Harbour_ yesterday at twenty minutes to four o’clock. The -harbour is rocky on the right as one enters, and very flat to the left; -as one proceeds the land rises on either side. We passed a little fort -called _Duncannon Fort_, whence James II. embarked after the battle -of the _Boyne_, and from which they had not saluted for fifty years. -Further up, between two little villages, one on either side, each -with its little chapel, picturesquely situated on the top of the rock -or hill, we anchored. The little fishing place to our left is called -_Passage_, and is famous for salmon; we had an excellent specimen for -our dinner. Albert decided on going to _Waterford_, ten miles up the -river, in the “Fairy,” with the boys, but as I felt giddy and tired, I -preferred remaining quietly on board sketching. Albert returned after -seven o’clock; he had not landed. - - - _Viceregal Lodge, Phœnix Park, - Monday, August 6._ - -Here we are in this very pretty spot, with a lovely view of the -_Wicklow Hills_ from the window. But now to return to yesterday’s -proceedings. We got under weigh at half-past eight o’clock; for three -hours it was dreadfully rough, and I and the poor children were very -sea-sick. When we had passed the _Tuscan Rock_ in _Wexford_ the sea -became smoother, and shortly after, quite smooth, and the evening -beautiful. After we passed _Arklow Head_, the _Wicklow Hills_ came -in sight--they are beautiful. The _Sugarloaf_ and _Carrick Mountain_ -have finely pointed outlines, with low hills in front and much wood. -At half-past six we came in sight of _Dublin Bay_, and were met by the -“Sphynx” and “Stromboli” (which had been sent on to wait and to come -in with us), the “Trident,” and, quite close to the harbour, by the -“Dragon,” another war-steamer. With this large squadron we steamed -slowly and majestically into the harbour of _Kingstown_, which was -covered with thousands and thousands of spectators, cheering most -enthusiastically. It is a splendid harbour, and was full of ships -of every kind. The wharf, where the landing-place was prepared, was -densely crowded, and altogether it was a noble and stirring scene. It -was just seven when we entered, and the setting sun lit up the country, -the fine buildings, and the whole scene with a glowing light, which was -truly beautiful. We were soon surrounded by boats, and the enthusiasm -and excitement of the people were extreme. - -While we were at breakfast the yacht was brought close up to the wharf, -which was lined with troops. Lord and Lady Clarendon and George[58] -came on board; also Lords Lansdowne and Clanricarde, the Primate, the -Archbishop of Dublin, and many others. The address was presented by -the Sheriff and gentlemen of the county. As the clock struck ten we -disembarked, stepping on shore from the yacht, Albert leading me and -the children, and all the others following us. An immense multitude had -assembled, who cheered most enthusiastically, the ships saluting and -the bands playing, and it was really very striking. The space we had -to walk along to the railroad was covered in; and lined with ladies -and gentlemen strewing flowers. We entered the railway-carriages with -the children, the Clarendons, and the three ladies; and in a quarter -of an hour reached the Dublin station. Here we found our carriages -with the postilions in their Ascot liveries. The two eldest children -went with us, and the two younger ones with the three ladies. Sir -Edward Blakeney, Commander-in-Chief in Ireland, rode on one side of the -carriage and George on the other, followed by a brilliant staff, and -escorted by the 17th Lancers and the Carabiniers. - -[58] The Duke of Cambridge. - -It was a wonderful and striking scene, such masses of human beings, so -enthusiastic, so excited, yet such perfect order maintained; then the -numbers of troops, the different bands stationed at certain distances, -the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, the bursts of welcome which rent -the air,--all made it a never-to-be-forgotten scene; when one reflected -how lately the country had been in open revolt and under martial law. - -_Dublin_ is a very fine city; and _Sackville Street_ and _Merrion -Square_ are remarkably large and handsome; and the _Bank_, _Trinity -College_, &c. are noble buildings. There are no gates to the town, but -temporary ones were erected under an arch; and here we stopped, and -the Mayor presented me the keys with some appropriate words. At the -last triumphal arch a poor little dove was let down into my lap, with -an olive branch round its neck, alive and very tame. The heat and dust -were tremendous. We reached _Phœnix Park_, which is very extensive, at -twelve. Lord and Lady Clarendon and all the household received us at -the door. It is a nice comfortable house, reminding us of _Claremont_, -with a pretty terrace garden in front (laid out by Lady Normanby), -and has a very extensive view of the _Park_ and the fine range of the -_Wicklow Mountains_. We are most comfortably lodged, and have very nice -rooms. - - - _Tuesday, August 7._ - -We drove into _Dublin_--with our two ladies--in Lord Clarendon’s -carriage, the gentlemen following; and without any escort. The people -were very enthusiastic, and cheered a great deal. We went, first, -to the _Bank_, where the Directors received us, and then to the -printing-room, and from thence viewed the old Houses of Lords and -Commons, for what is now the _Bank_ was the old Parliament House. From -here we drove to the _Model-School_, where we were received by the -Archbishop of Dublin, the Roman Catholic Archbishop Murray (a fine -venerable-looking old man of eighty), and the other gentlemen connected -with the school. We saw the _Infant_, the _Girls’_, and the _Boys’ -Schools_; in the latter, one class of boys was examined in mental -arithmetic and in many very difficult things, and they all answered -wonderfully. Children of all creeds are admitted, and their different -doctrines are taught separately, if the parents wish it; but the _only_ -teaching enforced is that of the Gospel truths, and love and charity. -This is truly Christian and ought to be the case everywhere. About -1,000 children are educated here annually, of which 300 are trained as -schoolmasters and mistresses. From here we visited _Trinity College_, -the Irish University, which is not conducted upon so liberal a system, -but into which Roman Catholics are admitted. Dr. Todd, the secretary, -and a very learned man, well versed in the Irish language, showed us -some most interesting ancient manuscripts and relics, including St. -Columba’s Book (in which we wrote our names), and the original harp -of King O’Brian, supposed to be the one from which the Irish arms are -taken. The library is a very large handsome room, like that in _Trinity -College, Cambridge_. We then proceeded towards home, the crowd in the -streets immense, and so loyal. It rained a little at intervals. Home by -a little past one. Albert went into _Dublin_ again after luncheon, and -I wrote and read, and heard our children say some lessons. - -At five we proceeded to _Kilmainham Hospital_, very near here; Lord -Clarendon going in the carriage with the ladies and myself--Albert -and the other gentlemen riding. Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff, -and George, received us. We saw the old pensioners, the chapel, and -the hall, a fine large room (where all the pensioners dine, as at -_Chelsea_), and then Sir Edward’s private apartments. We afterwards -took a drive through all the principal parts of _Dublin_,—_College -Green_, where the celebrated statue of William the III. is to be seen; -_Stephens’ Green_, by _The Four Courts_, a very handsome building; -and, though we were not expected, the crowds were in many places very -great. We returned a little before seven. A large dinner. After dinner -above two or three hundred people arrived, including most of the Irish -nobility and many of the gentry; and afterwards there was a ball. - - - _Wednesday, August 8._ - -At twenty minutes to one o’clock we left for _Dublin_, I and all the -ladies in evening dresses, all the gentlemen in uniform. We drove -straight to the Castle. Everything here as at _St. James’s_ Levée. -The staircase and throne-room quite like a palace. I received (on -the throne) the addresses of the Lord Mayor and Corporation, the -University, the Archbishop and Bishops, both Roman Catholic and -Anglican, the Presbyterians, the non-subscribing Presbyterians, and the -Quakers. They also presented Albert with addresses.[59] Then followed a -very long Levée, which lasted without intermission till twenty minutes -to six o’clock! Two thousand people were presented! - -[59] Lord Breadalbane (Lord Chamberlain) was in attendance, having -joined us on our arrival in Dublin. - - _Thursday, August 9._ - -There was a great and brilliant review in the _Phœnix Park_--six -thousand one hundred and sixty men, including the constabulary. In the -evening we two dined alone, and at half-past eight o’clock drove into -_Dublin_ for the Drawing-room. It is always held here of an evening. I -should think between two and three thousand people passed before us, -and one thousand six hundred ladies were presented. After it was over -we walked through _St. Patrick’s Hall_ and the other rooms, and the -crowd was very great. We came back to the _Phœnix Park_ at half-past -twelve--the streets still densely crowded. The city was illuminated. - - - _Friday, August 10._ - -At a quarter to twelve o’clock we set out, with all our suite, for -_Carton_, the Duke of Leinster’s; Lord and Lady Clarendon in the -carriage with us. We went through _Woodlands_, a place belonging to -Mr. White, in which there are beautiful lime-trees; and we passed by -the “Preparatory College” for _Maynooth_; and not far from _Carton_ -we saw a number of the Maynooth students. The park of Carton is very -fine. We arrived there at a little past one, and were received by the -Duke and Duchess of Leinster, the Kildares, Mr. and Lady C. Repton, and -their two sons. We walked out into the garden, where all the company -were assembled, and the two bands playing; it is very pretty: a sort -of formal French garden with rows of Irish yews. We walked round the -garden twice, the Duke leading me, and Albert the Duchess. The Duke is -one of the kindest and best of men. - -After luncheon we walked out and saw some of the country people dance -jigs, which was very amusing. The Irish is quite different from the -Scotch reel; not so animated, and the steps different, but very droll. -The people were very poorly dressed in thick coats, and the women in -shawls. There was one man who was a regular specimen of an Irishman, -with his hat on one ear. Others in blue coats, with short breeches and -blue stockings. There were three old and tattered pipers playing. The -Irish pipe is very different from the Scotch; it is very weak, and -they don’t blow into it, but merely have small bellows which they move -with the arm. We walked round the pleasure-grounds, and after this got -into a carriage with the Duke and Duchess--our ladies and gentlemen -following in a large jaunting-car, and the people riding, running, and -driving with us, but extremely well-behaved; and the Duke is so kind to -them, that a word from him will make them do anything. It was very hot, -and yet the people kept running the whole way, and in the thick woollen -coats, which it seems they always wear here. We drove along the park -to a spot which commands an extensive view of the _Wicklow Hills_. -We then went down an entirely new road, cut out of the solid rock, -through a beautiful valley, full of the finest trees, growing among -rocks close to a piece of water. We got out and walked across a little -wooden bridge to a very pretty little cottage, entirely ornamented with -shells, &c. by the Duchess. We drove back in the jaunting-car, which is -a double one, with four wheels, and held a number of us--I sitting on -one side between Albert and the Duke; the Duchess, Lady Jocelyn, Lord -Clarendon, and Lady Waterford on the opposite side; George at the back, -and the equerries on either side of the coachman. - -As soon as we returned to the house we took leave of our hosts, and -went back to the _Phœnix Park_ a different way from the one we came, -along the banks of the _Liffey_, through Mr. Colson’s park, in which -there were the most splendid beeches I have ever seen--feathering down -quite to the ground; and farther along the road and river were some -lovely sycamore-trees. We drove through the village of _Lucan_, where -there were fine decorations and arches of bays and laurel. We passed -below _The Strawberry-beds_, which are really curious to see--quite -high banks of them--and numbers of people come from _Dublin_ to eat -these strawberries; and there are rooms at the bottom of these banks on -purpose. We were home a little after five. - - - _On Board the Victoria and Albert, - in Loch Ryan, Sunday, August 12._ - -We arrived after a dreadfully rough though very short passage, and have -taken refuge here. To return to Friday. We left the _Phœnix Park_, -where we had spent so pleasant a time, at six o’clock, Lord Clarendon -and the two elder children going in the carriage with us, and drove -with an escort to the Dublin Railway Station. The town was immensely -crowded, and the people most enthusiastic. George met us there, and -we took him, the Clarendons, and Lord Lansdowne and our ladies in the -carriage with us. We arrived speedily at _Kingstown_, where there -were just as many people and as much enthusiasm as on the occasion of -our disembarkation. We stood on the paddle-box as we slowly steamed -out of _Kingstown_, amidst the cheers of thousands and thousands, and -salutes from all the ships; and I waved my handkerchief as a parting -acknowledgment of their loyalty. We soon passed _Howth_ and _Ireland’s -Eye_. The ship was very steady, though the sea was not smooth, and the -night thick and rainy, and we feared a storm was coming on. - - - _Saturday, August 11._ - -We reached _Belfast Harbour_ at four o’clock. The wind had got up -amazingly, and the morning was a very bad and stormy one. - -We had not had a very quiet night for sleeping, though very smooth. The -weather got worse and worse, and blew a real gale; and it was quite -doubtful whether we could start as we had intended, on our return from -_Belfast_, for _Scotland_. - -We saw the Mayor and General (Bainbrigg), who had come on board after -breakfast. - -At a quarter-past one we started with the ladies and gentlemen for the -“Fairy.” Though we had only two minutes’ row in the barge, there was -such a swell that the getting in and out, and the rolling and tossing -in the boat, were very disagreeable. We had to keep in the little -pavilion, as the squalls were so violent as to cover the “Fairy” with -spray. We passed between _Holywood_ and _Carrickfergus_, celebrated for -the first landing of William III. We reached _Belfast_ in half an hour, -and fortunately the sun came out. - -We lay close alongside the wharf, where a very fine landing-place -was arranged, and where thousands were assembled. Lord Londonderry -came on board, and numerous deputations with addresses, including the -Mayor (whom I knighted), the Protestant Bishop of Down and clergy, -the Catholic Bishop Denvir (an excellent and modest man), the Sheriff -and Members for the county, with Lord Donegal (to whom the greater -part of _Belfast_ belongs), Dr. Henry, from the new College, and the -Presbyterians (of whom there are a great many here). Lady Londonderry -and her daughter also came on board. There was some delay in getting -the gang-board down, as they had made much too large a one. Some -planks on board were arranged, and we landed easily in this way. -The landing-place was covered in, and very tastefully decorated. -We got into Lord Londonderry’s carriage with the two ladies, and -Lord Londonderry himself got on the rumble behind with the two -sergeant-footmen, Renwick and Birbage, both very tall, large men; and -the three must have been far from comfortable. - -The town was beautifully decorated with flowers, hangings, and very -fine triumphal arches, the galleries full of people; and the reception -very hearty. The people are a mixture of nations, and the female beauty -had almost disappeared. - -I have all along forgotten to say that the favourite motto written -up on most of the arches, &c., and in every place, was: “Cead mile -failte,” which means “A hundred thousand welcomes” in Irish, which is -very like Gaelic; it is in fact _the_ language, and has existed in -books from the earliest period, whereas Gaelic has only been _written_ -since half a century, though it was always _spoken_. They often called -out, “Cead mile failte!” and it appears in every sort of shape. - -Lord Donegal rode on one side of the carriage and the General on the -other. We stopped at the _Linen Hall_ to see the exhibition of the -flax and linen manufacture. Lord Downshire and several other gentlemen -received us there, and conducted us through the different rooms, where -we saw the whole process in its different stages. First the plant, -then the flax after being steeped; then the spun flax; lastly, the -linen, cambric, and cloth of every sort and kind. It is really very -interesting to see, and it is wonderful to what a state of perfection -it has been brought. - -We got into our carriages again. This time Lord Londonderry did not -attempt to resume his uncomfortable position. - -We went along through the _Botanic Garden_, and stopped and got out -to look at the new College which is to be opened in October. It is -a handsome building. We passed through several of the streets and -returned to the place of embarkation. _Belfast_ is a fine town, with -some good buildings--for instance, the _Bank_ and _Exchange_,--and is -considered the _Liverpool_ and _Manchester_ of _Ireland_. - -I have forgotten to mention the Constabulary, who are a remarkably fine -body of men, 13,000 in number (altogether in _Ireland_), all Irish, and -chiefly Roman Catholics; and not one of whom, during the trying times -last year, fraternised with the rebels. - -We left amid immense cheering, and reached the “Victoria and Albert” at -half-past six. It was blowing as hard as ever, and the getting in and -out was as disagreeable as before. We decided on spending the night -where we were, unless the wind should drop by three or four o’clock in -the morning. Many bonfires were lighted on the surrounding hills and -coasts. - - - _Sunday, August 12._ - -The weather no better, and as there seemed no hope of its improvement, -we decided on starting at two o’clock, and proceeding either to _Loch -Ryan_ or _Lamlash_. Lord Adolphus read the service at half-past ten, at -which the two eldest children were also present. - -I intend to create Bertie “Earl of Dublin,” as a compliment to the town -and country; he has no Irish title, though he is _born_ with several -Scotch ones (belonging to the heirs to the Scotch throne, and which we -have inherited from James VI. of Scotland and I. of England); and this -was one of my father’s titles. - -The preparations on deck for the voyage were not encouraging; the boats -hoisted up, the accommodation ladders drawn quite close up, every piece -of carpet removed, and everything covered; and, indeed, my worst fears -were realized. We started at two, and I went below and lay down shortly -after, and directly we got out of the harbour the yacht began rolling -for the first three-quarters of an hour, in a way which was dreadful, -and there were two rolls, when the waves broke over the ship, which I -never shall forget. It got gradually better, and at five we entered -_Loch Ryan_, truly thankful to be at the end of our voyage. Albert came -down to me and then I went up on deck, and he told me how awful it had -been. The first great wave which came over the ship threw everybody -down in every direction. Poor little Affie[60] was thrown down and sent -rolling over the deck, and was drenched, for the deck was swimming with -water. Albert told me it was quite frightful to see the enormous waves -rising like a wall above the sides of the ship. We did not anchor so -high up in _Loch Ryan_ as we had done two years ago; but it was a very -safe quiet anchorage, and we were very glad to be there. Albert went on -shore. - -[60] Prince Alfred. - - - _Monday, August 13._ - -We started at four o’clock in the morning, and the yacht rolled a -little, but the motion was an easy one. We were in the _Clyde_ by -breakfast-time, but the day was very bad, constant squalls hiding the -scenery. We left _Greenock_ to our left, and proceeded a little way -up _Loch Goil_, which opens into _Loch Long_, and is very fine; it -seems extraordinary to have such deep water in a narrow loch and so -immediately below the mountains, which are very rocky. We turned back -and went up _Loch Long_, which I remembered so well, and which is so -beautiful. We let go the anchor at _Arrochar_, the head of the lake, -intending to land and proceed to _Loch Lomond_, where a steamer was -waiting for us; but it poured with rain most hopelessly. We waited an -hour in vain, and decided on stopping till after luncheon and making -the attempt at three o’clock. We lunched and stepped into the boat, -as it had cleared a little; but just then it began pouring again more -violently than before, and we put back much disappointed, but Albert -persevered, and he went off with Mr. Anson, Sir James Clark, and -Captain Robinson almost directly afterwards. Just then it cleared and I -felt so vexed that we had not gone; but there have been some terrible -showers since. We left _Arrochar_ a little before four, _Loch Long_ -looking beautiful as we returned. - - - _Perth, Tuesday, August 14._ - -We anchored yesterday in _Roseneath Bay_, close to _Roseneath_--a very -pretty spot--and looking towards the mountains which you see in _Loch -Goil_. One of them is called “The Duke of Argyll’s Bowling-green.” -Albert only returned soon after eight o’clock, having been able to see -a good deal of _Loch Lomond_, and even _Rob Roy’s Cave_, in spite of -heavy showers. Captain Beechey (who was with us during the whole voyage -in ’47, and again the whole of this one to pilot us), Captain Crispin, -and Captain Robinson (who met us this morning and piloted Albert in -_Loch Lomond_, and did the same for us in ’47), dined with us also, and -we had much interesting conversation about the formation of glaciers, -&c., in all of which Captain Beechey (who is a very intelligent man, -and has been all over the world) took part. He was with Sir Edward -Parry at the _North Pole_, and told us that they had not seen daylight -for four months. They heaped up snow over the ship and covered it in -with boards to keep the cold off. - - - _Balmoral, Wednesday, August 15._ - -It seems like a dream to be here in our dear Highland home again; it -certainly does not seem as if it were a year since we were here! Now I -must describe the doings of yesterday. We embarked on board the “Fairy” -at a quarter to nine o’clock, and proceeded up the _Clyde_ in pouring -rain and high wind, and it was very stormy till after we had passed -_Greenock_. We steamed past _Port Glasgow_, then came _Dumbarton_ -and _Erskine_. The river narrows and winds extraordinarily here, and -you do not see _Glasgow_ until you are quite close upon it. As we -approached, the banks were lined with people, either on estrades or on -the sea-shore, and it was amusing to see all those on the shore take -flight, often too late, as the water bounded up from the swell caused -by the steamer. - -The weather, which had been dreadful, cleared up, just as we reached -_Glasgow_, about eleven, and continued fine for the remainder of the -day. Several addresses were presented on board, first by the Lord -Provost, who was knighted, (Colonel Gordon’s sword being used,) then -one from the county, the clergy (Established Church and Free Kirk), -and from the Houses of Commerce. We landed immediately after this; -the landing-place was very handsomely decorated. We then entered our -carriage with the two eldest children, the two others following. Mr. -Alison (the celebrated historian, who is the Sheriff) rode on one side -of the carriage, and General Riddell (the Commander of the Forces in -Scotland) on the other. The crowds assembled were quite enormous, but -excellent order was kept and they were very enthusiastic. Mr. Alison -said that there were 500,000 people out. The town is a handsome one -with fine streets built in stone, and many fine buildings and churches. -We passed over a bridge commanding an extensive view down two quays, -which Albert said was very like _Paris_. There are many large shops and -warehouses, and the shipping is immense. - -We went up to the old cathedral, where Principal Mac Farlane, a very -old man, received us, and directed our attention, as we walked through -the church gates, to an immensely high chimney, the highest I believe -in existence, which belongs to one of the manufactories. The cathedral -is a very fine one, the choir of which is fitted up as a Presbyterian -church. We were shown the crypt and former burial-place of the bishops, -which is in a very high state of preservation. The architecture is -beautiful. It is in this crypt that the famous scene in _Rob Roy_ is -laid, where Rob Roy gives Frank Osbaldistone warning that he is in -danger. There is an old monument of St. Kentigern, commonly called St. -Mungo, the founder of the cathedral. We re-entered our carriages and -went to the _University_, an ancient building, and which has produced -many great and learned men. Here we got out and received an address. -We only stopped a few minutes, and then went on again towards the -_Exchange_, in front of which is Marochetti’s equestrian statue of the -Duke of Wellington, very like and beautifully executed. We got out at -the railway station and started almost immediately. - -We passed _Stirling_ in the distance, and a little before four we -reached _Perth_, where the people were very friendly. We took the four -children in our carriage and drove straight to the “George Inn,” where -we had the same rooms that we had last time. - -Albert went out immediately to see the prison, and at six we drove -together along the _London Road_ (as they rather strangely call it), -towards _Moncrieffe_. The view was perfectly beautiful, and is the -finest of _Perth_ and the grand bridge over the _Tay_. - - - _Wednesday, August 15._ - -At a quarter to eight o’clock we started. The two boys and Vicky were -in the carriage with us, Alice followed with the ladies. It was a long -journey, but through very beautiful scenery. We saw the _Grampians_ as -we left _Perth_. We first changed horses at _Blairgowrie_, 15 miles. -Then came a very long stage of 20 miles, to the _Spittal of Glenshee_. -We first passed the house of a Lieut.-Colonel Clark Rattray, called -_Craig Hall_, overhanging a valley or glen above which we drove, -and after this we came into completely wild Highland scenery, with -barren rocky hills, through which the road winds to the _Spittal of -Glenshee_, which can scarcely be called a village, for it consists of -only an inn and two or three cottages. We got out at the inn, where -we found Mr. Farquharson and his son, and some of his men. Here we -had some luncheon, and then set off again. The next stage of 15 miles -to _Castleton_ is over a very bad, and at night, positively dangerous -road, through wild, grand scenery, with very abrupt turns and steep -ascents. One sharp turn is called _The Devil’s Elbow_. The Farquharson -men joined us again here, some having gone on before, and others having -followed from the inn, skipping over stones and rocks with the rapidity -and lightness peculiar to Highlanders. They remained with us till we -were able to trot on again. - -We drove through a very fine pass called _Cairn Wall_ and were -overtaken by a heavy shower. When we reached _Castleton_ the day had -cleared, and we were able to open the carriage again. Here we were -met by Sir Alexander Duff and the Duke of Leeds at the head of their -men. Lady Duff, Mr. and Lady Agnes Duff, Miss Farquharson, and several -of the children, and the Duchess of Leeds, came up to the carriage. -The drive from _Castleton_ to _Balmoral_, particularly the beautiful -part from the _Balloch Buie_, was well known to us; and it was a great -pleasure to see it all again in its beauty. Grant had met us at the -_Spittal of Glenshee_, and ridden the whole way with us. At the door at -_Balmoral_ were Mackay, who was playing, and Macdonald in full dress. -It was about four when we arrived. - - - - -YACHTING EXCURSION. - - - _On Board the Victoria and Albert, - Dartmouth, Thursday, August 20, 1846._ - -We steamed past the various places on the beautiful coast of -_Devonshire_ which we had passed three years ago--_Seaton_, _Sidmouth_, -off which we stopped for ten minutes, _Axmouth_, _Teignmouth_, -&c.;--till we came to _Babbicombe_, a small bay, where we remained -an hour. It is a beautiful spot, which before we had only passed at -a distance. Red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like _Italy_, and -reminding one of a ballet or play where nymphs are to appear--such -rocks and grottos, with the deepest sea, on which there was not a -ripple. We intended to disembark and walk up the hill; but it came on -to rain very much, and we could not do so. We tried to sketch the part -looking towards _Torbay_. I never saw our good children looking better, -or in higher spirits. I contrived to give Vicky a little lesson, by -making her read in her English history. - -We proceeded on our course again at half-past one o’clock, and saw -_Torquay_ very plainly, which is very fine. The sea looked so stormy -and the weather became so thick that it was thought best to give -up _Plymouth_ (for the third time), and to put into that beautiful -_Dartmouth_, and we accordingly did so, in pouring rain, the deck -swimming with water, and all of us with umbrellas; the children being -most anxious to see everything. Notwithstanding the rain, this place is -lovely, with its wooded rocks and church and castle at the entrance. -It puts me much in mind of the beautiful _Rhine_, and its fine ruined -castles, and the _Lurlei_. - -I am now below writing, and crowds of boats are surrounding us on all -sides. - - - _Plymouth Harbour, Friday, August 21._ - -We got under weigh by half-past six o’clock, and on looking out we -saw the sea so calm and blue and the sun so bright that we determined -to get up. It was a very fine day, but there was a great deal of -swell. At length at half-past nine we entered the splendid harbour of -_Plymouth_, and anchored again below _Mount Edgcumbe_; which, with its -beautiful trees, including pines, growing down into the sea, looks more -lovely than ever. I changed my dress and read innumerable letters and -despatches, and then went on deck and saw the authorities--the Admirals -and Generals. I did Vicky’s lessons and wrote; and at half-past one we -went on board the “Fairy,” (leaving the children on board the “Victoria -and Albert,”) with all our ladies and gentlemen, as well as Sir James -Clark, who has joined us here. We steamed up the _Tamar_, going first -a little way up the _St. Germans_ river, which has very prettily -wooded banks. _Trematon Castle_ to the right, which belongs to Bertie -as Duke of Cornwall, and _Jats_ to the left, are extremely pretty. -We stopped here and afterwards turned back and went up the _Tamar_, -which at first seemed flat; but as we proceeded the scenery became -quite beautiful--richly wooded hills, the trees growing down into the -water, and the river winding so much as to have the effect of a lake. -In this it reminded me so much of going up the _Rhine_,--though I -don’t think the river resembles the _Rhine_. Albert thought it like -the _Danube_. The finest parts begin about _Saltash_, which is a small -but prettily built town. To the right as you go up all is un-English -looking; a little further on is the mouth of the _Tavy_; here the -river becomes very beautiful. We passed numbers of mines at work. -Further on, to the left, we came to _Pentillie Castle_ situated on a -height most beautifully wooded down to the water’s edge, and the river -winding rapidly above and below it. Albert said it reminded him of the -situation of _Greinburg_ on the _Danube_. Not much further on we came -to the picturesque little village and landing-place of _Cothele_, at -the foot of a thickly-wooded bank, with a valley on one side. Here -the river is very narrow. We landed, and drove up a steep hill under -fine trees to the very curious old _House of Cothele_, where we got -out of the carriage. It is most curious in every way--as it stands in -the same state as it was in the time of Henry VII. and is in great -preservation--the old rooms hung with arras, &c. - -We drove down another way under beautiful trees and above the fine -valley; embarked and proceeded down the river. The evening was -beautiful, the sun bright, and the sky and sea so blue. We arrived -just too late for the launch of the frigate “Thetis.” It reminded -me so much of when we were here three years ago, as we approached -our yacht, surrounded by myriads of boats, and had to row through -them in our barge. We returned at half-past five. The evening was -delightful--clear, calm, and cloudless, but a good deal of noise in the -boats around us. Lord and Lady Mount Edgcumbe and Sir James Clark dined -with us. - - - _Plymouth, Saturday, August 22._ - -Albert was up at six o’clock, as he was to go to _Dartmoor Forest_. -At ten I went in the barge with the two children, the ladies, Baron -Stockmar, and Lord Alfred Paget, and landed at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where -we were received by Lady Mount Edgcumbe, her two boys, her sister and -nieces, and beyond the landing-place by Lord Mount Edgcumbe. There were -crowds where we landed, and I feel so shy and put out without Albert. -I got into a carriage with the children and Lady Mount Edgcumbe--Lord -Mount Edgcumbe going before us and the others following--and took a -lovely drive along the road which overhangs the bay, commanding such -beautiful views on all sides, and going under and by such fine trees. -We had been there three years ago; but it is always a pleasure to see -it again. The day very hot and a little hazy. We came to the house at -eleven. The children went with their governess and the other children -into the shade and had luncheon in the house, and I remained in the -gallery--a very pretty room, with some fine pictures, and with a door -opening on the garden, and commanding a lovely little bit of sea view, -which I tried to sketch. A little after twelve we returned to the -yacht, which had been beset with boats ever since six in the morning. -Albert returned safely to me at one o’clock, much pleased with his -trip; and said that _Dartmoor Forest_ was like _Scotland_. - -At two we went with our ladies and gentlemen, and without the children, -again to the landing-place at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where we were received -as before, and drove up to the house. There are some of the finest and -tallest chestnut-trees in existence here, and the beech-trees grow very -peculiarly--quite tall and straight--the branches growing upwards. -We walked about the gallery and looked into Lady Mount Edgcumbe’s -little room at one end of it, which is charming, and full of pretty -little things which she has collected, and then we took luncheon in -a room where there are some fine portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds. -They are all of the Mount Edgcumbe family, one of whom was his great -patron. Sir Joshua was born a few miles from _Plymouth_. There are in -the same room pictures by him when he first began to paint, which have -kept their colour; then when he made experiments--and these are quite -faded; and again of his works when he discovered his mistakes, and the -colour of his pictures is then beautiful. We walked about the garden -near the house, and then drove to the “Kiosk,” by beautiful stone pines -and pinasters, which interested Albert very much, and put me so much -in mind of Mr. Lear’s drawings. The view from this “Kiosk,” which is -very high over the sea and town, is most beautiful, and the sea was -like glass, not a ripple to be seen. We walked down a very pretty road -or path through the woods and trees till we met the carriage, and we -drove along that beautiful road, which is said to be a little like -the _Cornice_, overhanging the sea, down to the place of embarkation, -where we took leave of them all, and returned to our yacht by half-past -four. Poor Lord Mount Edgcumbe is in such a sad, helpless state; but so -patient and cheerful. We went on board just to fetch the children, and -then on to the “Fairy,” and steamed in her round the harbour, or rather -bay, in which there are such pretty spots; into the _Cat Water_, from -whence we rowed in one of the barges a little way up the river to look -at _Saltram_, Lord Morley’s; after that back to the “Fairy,” went in -her into _Mill Bay_, _Sutton Pool_, and _Stonehouse_, and returned to -the yacht by half-past six. - - - _In Guernsey Bay, off St. Pierre, Guernsey, - Sunday, August 23._ - -On waking, the morning was so lovely that we could not help regretting -that we could not delay our trip a little, by one day at least, as -the Council which was to have been on the 25th is now on the 29th. -We thought, however, we could do nothing but sail for _Torbay_, at -half-past nine, and for _Osborne_ on Monday. While dressing, I kept -thinking whether we could not manage to see _Falmouth_, or something -or other. Albert thought we might perhaps manage to see one of -the _Channel Islands_, and accordingly he sent for Lord Adolphus -Fitzclarence, and it was settled that we should go to _Guernsey_, which -delighted me, as I had so long wished to see it. The day splendid. The -General and Admiral came on board to take leave. Sir J. West is the -Admiral, and General Murray, the General; and at about half-past nine -we set off, and the sea the whole way was as calm as it was in ’43. -_Plymouth_ is beautiful, and we shall always be delighted to return -there. - -For two hours we were in expectation of seeing land; but it was very -hazy, and they did not know where we were--till about six, when land -was seen by the “Fairy,” who came to report it, and then all the other -vessels went on before us. As we approached we were struck by the -beauty of the _Guernsey_ coast, in which there are several rocky bays, -and the town of _St. Pierre_ is very picturesquely built, down to the -water’s edge. You see _Sark_ (or _Sercq_) as you enter the harbour to -the right, and further on, close opposite _St. Pierre_, two islands -close together--_Herm_ and _Jethou_. The bay with these fine islands is -really most curious. We anchored at seven, immediately opposite _St. -Pierre_, and with the two islands on the other side of us. We dined at -eight, and found on going on deck the whole town illuminated, which -had a very pretty effect, and must have been done very quickly, for -they had no idea of our coming. It is built like a foreign town. The -people speak mostly French amongst themselves. - - - _August 24._ - -_St. Pierre_ is very picturesque-looking--with very high, -bright-coloured houses built down almost into the sea. The College -and Church are very conspicuous buildings. This island with its bold -point, and the little one of _Cornet_ with a sort of castle on it -(close to which we were anchored), and the three islands of _Herm_, -_Jethou_, and _Sark_, with innumerable rocks, are really very fine -and peculiar,--especially as they then were in bright sunlight. We -both sketched, and at a quarter to nine got into our barge with our -ladies. The pier and shore were lined with crowds of people, and with -ladies dressed in white, singing “God save the Queen,” and strewing the -ground with flowers. We walked to our carriage, preceded by General -Napier, brother to Sir Charles (in _Scinde_), a very singular-looking -old man, tall and thin, with an aquiline nose, piercing eyes, and -white moustaches and hair. The people were extremely well-behaved and -friendly, and received us very warmly as we drove through the narrow -streets, which were decorated with flowers and flags, and lined with -the _Guernsey_ militia, 2,000 strong, with their several bands. Some of -the militia were mounted. - -The vegetation beyond the town is exceedingly fine; and the evergreens -and flowers most abundant. The streets and hills steep, and the view -from the fort, which is very high, (and where General Napier presented -me with the keys,) is extremely beautiful. You look over the bay of -_Guernsey_, and see opposite to you the islands of _Herm_, _Jethou_, -and _Sark_; with _Alderney_, and the coast of _France_, _Cape de la -Hague_, to the left in the distance, and to the right in the distance, -_Jersey_. The island appears very flourishing. In the town they speak -English, but in the country French, and this is the same in all the -islands. They belonged to the Duchy of Normandy, and have been in our -possession ever since William the Conqueror’s time. King John[61] was -the last of their sovereigns who visited them. We drove along the pier, -and then embarked amidst great cheering. It was all admirably managed; -the people are extremely loyal. - -[61] For King John’s visit, see Roger de Wendover, a contemporary -chronicler.--ED. - -We got under weigh a little before one and in about an hour-and-a-half -we came close to _Alderney_, seeing all the time the French coast, -_Cape de la Hague_, very plainly to our right, and leaving the -_Casquets Lights_ to our left. _Alderney_ is quite different from all -the other islands, excessively rocky and barren, and the rocks in and -under the sea are most frightful. - - - - -SECOND YACHTING EXCURSION. - - - _On Board the Victoria and Albert, - Off St. Heliers, Jersey, - Wednesday, September 2, 1846._ - -At a quarter-past seven o’clock we set off with Vicky, Bertie, Lady -Jocelyn, Miss Kerr, Mdlle. Gruner, Lord Spencer, Lord Palmerston, -and Sir James Clark (Mr. Anson and Colonel Grey being on board the -“Black Eagle”), and embarked at _Osborne Pier_. There was a good -deal of swell. It was fine, but very cold at first. At twelve we saw -_Alderney_, and between two and three got into the _Alderney Race_, -where there was a great deal of rolling, but not for long. We passed -between _Alderney_ and the French coast--_Cape de la Hague_--and saw -the other side of _Alderney_; and then, later, _Sark_, _Guernsey_, -and the other islands. After passing the _Alderney Race_, it became -quite smooth; and then Bertie put on his sailor’s dress, which was -beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our sailors. When he -appeared, the officers and sailors, who were all assembled on deck to -see him, cheered, and seemed delighted with him. - -The coast of _Jersey_ is very beautiful, and we had to go nearly all -round, in order to get to _St. Heliers_. We first passed the point -called _Rondnez_, then _Grosnez_ with a tower, _St. Ouen’s Bay_, _La -Rocca_, a curious old tower on a rock, and then _Brelade’s Bay_. The -red cliffs and rocks, with the setting sun gilding and lighting them -all up, were beautiful. At last, at a quarter to seven, we arrived in -this fine large bay of _St. Aubin_, in which lies _St. Heliers_; and -after dinner we went on deck to see the illumination and the bonfires. - - - _Off St. Heliers, - Thursday, September 3._ - -A splendid day. I never saw a more beautiful deep blue sea, quite like -_Naples_; and Albert said that this fine bay of _St. Aubin_, in which -we lie, really is like the _Bay of Naples_. _Noirmont Point_ terminates -in a low tower to our left, with _St. Aubin_ and a tower on a rock -in front of it; farther in, and to our right, _Elizabeth Castle_, a -picturesque fort on a rock, with the town of _St. Heliers_ behind it. - -The colouring and the effect of light were indescribably beautiful. -We got into our barge with our ladies and gentlemen, and then went on -board the “Fairy,” until we were close to the harbour, and then we -got into the barge again. We landed at the stairs of the _Victoria -Harbour_, amid the cheers of the numberless crowds, guns firing, and -bands playing; were received, as at _Guernsey_, by all the ladies -of the town, very gaily dressed, who, strewing flowers on our way, -conducted us to a canopy, where I received the address of the States -and of the militia. - -We then got into our carriage and drove along the pier; Colonel Le -Couteur, my militia aide-de-camp, riding by my side, with other -officers, and by Albert’s side Colonel Le Breton, commanding the -militia, who, 5,000 strong, lined the streets, and were stationed -along the pier. The States walking in front. The crowds were immense, -but everything in excellent order, and the people most enthusiastic, -though not more so than the good _Guernsey_ people; the town is much -larger, and they had much longer time for preparations; the decorations -and arches of flowers were really beautifully done, and there were -numberless kind inscriptions. All the country people here speak French, -and so did the police who walked near us. It was a very gratifying -reception. There was a seat in one of the streets filled by Frenchwomen -from _Granville_, curiously dressed with white handkerchiefs on their -heads. After passing through several streets we drove up to the -_Government House_, but did not get out. General Gibbs, the Governor, -is very infirm. - -We then proceeded at a quicker pace--the walking procession having -ceased--through the interior of the island, which is extremely pretty -and very green,--orchards without end, as at _Mayence_. We passed the -curious old tower of _La Hougue Bie_, of very ancient date, and went -to the _Castle of Mont Orgueil_, in _Grouville Bay_, very beautifully -situated, completely overhanging the sea, and where Robert, Duke of -Normandy, son of William the Conqueror, is said to have lived.[62] -We walked part of the way up, and from one of the batteries, where -no guns are now mounted, you command the bay, and the French coast -is distinctly seen, only 13 miles distant. The people are very proud -that _Mont Orgueil_ had never been taken; but I have since learnt it -was taken by surprise and held for a few days; _Guernsey_, however, -_never_ was taken.[63] - -[62] Mont Orgueil was also called Gouray Castle. Duke Robert the -Second, the Conqueror’s son, lived at Gouray Castle in Normandy: Duke -Robert the First, commonly called “Robert le Diable,” was in Jersey for -twelve days; and, during that time, probably occupied Gouray Castle in -that island. Hence may have arisen the tradition of Robert the Second -having lived there, of which there is no evidence.--ED. - -[63] The public Records certainly state that Guernsey was taken by the -French in 1339. But the same records show that it was again in the -possession of the English as early as January 1340. The tradition, -therefore, “that Guernsey never was taken,” may be true, as the -occupation by the French might only have been partial--viz., of Castle -Cornet and the vicinity; and this might have been magnified, by report -in England, into a conquest of the whole island. Popular traditions, -contradicted at first by documentary evidence, are often eventually -found to be true. Everything depends upon the meaning of the words -“taken” and “conquered.” It could hardly have been said that England -had been “conquered” by the Normans, while the gallant Hereward held -out in the Isle of Ely.--ED. - -We then returned to our carriage, and proceeded to the pier by a -shorter road, and through a different part of the town. There is a -peculiar elm-tree in the island, which is very pretty, and unlike any -other,--the leaf and the way it grows almost resembling the acacia. The -crowd was very great and the heat very intense in going back. - -We re-embarked in the barge, but had only to go a few yards to the -“Fairy.” The situation of the harbour is very fine,--and crowned with -the fort, and covered by numbers of people, was like an amphitheatre. -The heat of the sun, and the glare, had made me so ill and giddy that I -remained below the greater part of the afternoon, and Albert went out -for an hour on the “Fairy.” - - - _Falmouth Harbour, Friday, September 4._ - -A beautiful day again, with the same brilliantly blue sea. At a quarter -to eight o’clock we got under weigh. There was a great deal of motion -at first, and for the greater part of the day the ship pitched, but -getting up the sails steadied her. From five o’clock it became quite -smooth; at half-past five we saw land, and at seven we entered -_Falmouth Harbour_, where we were immediately surrounded by boats. The -evening was beautiful and the sea as smooth as glass, and without even -a ripple. The calmest night possible, with a beautiful moon, when we -went on deck; every now and then the splashing of oars and the hum of -voices were heard; but they were the only sounds, unlike the constant -dashing of the sea against the vessel, which we heard all the time we -were at _Jersey_. - - - _Mount’s Bay, Cornwall, Saturday, September 5._ - -At eight o’clock we left _Falmouth_ and proceeded along the coast of -_Cornwall_, which becomes bold and rugged beyond the _Lizard Point_ and -as one approaches _Land’s End_. At about twelve we passed _Land’s End_, -which is very fine and rocky, the view from thence opening beautifully. -We passed quite close by the _Longships_, some rocks on which stands a -lighthouse. The sea was unusually smooth for the _Land’s End_. We went -beyond a point with some rocks near it, called _The Brisons_, and then -steamed back; the famous Botallack mine lies here. A little before two -we landed in this beautiful _Mount’s Bay_, close below _St. Michael’s -Mount_, which is very fine. When the bay first opened to our view the -sun was lighting up this beautiful castle, so peculiarly built on a -lofty rock, and which forms an island at high water. - -[Illustration] - -In entering the bay we passed the small village of _Mousehole_ and the -town of _Penzance_, which is prettily situated, about one mile and a -half from _St. Michael’s Mount_. The day brightened just as we arrived, -and the sea again became so blue. - -Soon after our arrival we anchored; the crowd of boats was beyond -everything; numbers of Cornish pilchard fishermen, in their curious -large boats, kept going round and round, and then anchored, besides -many other boats full of people. They are a very noisy, talkative race, -and speak a kind of English hardly to be understood. - -During our voyage I was able to give Vicky her lessons. At three -o’clock we all got into the barge, including the children and Mdlle. -Gruner, their governess, and rowed through an avenue of boats of all -descriptions to the “Fairy,” where we went on board. The getting in -and out of the barge was no easy task. There was a good deal of swell, -and the “Fairy” herself rolled amazingly. We steamed round the bay -to look at _St. Michael’s Mount_ from the other side, which is even -more beautiful, and then went on to _Penzance_. Albert landed near -_Penzance_ with all the gentlemen, except Lord Spencer (who is most -agreeable, efficient, and useful at sea, being a Captain of the Navy) -and Colonel Grey, and went to see the smelting of copper and tin, -and the works in serpentine stone at _Penzance_. We remained here -a little while without going on, in order to sketch, and returned -to the “Victoria and Albert” by half-past four, the boats crowding -round us in all directions; and when Bertie showed himself the people -shouted:—“Three cheers for the Duke of Cornwall!” Albert returned a -little before seven, much gratified by what he had seen, and bringing -home specimens of the serpentine stone. - - - _Mount’s Bay, Sunday, September 6._ - -A hazy, dull-looking morning, but as calm as it possibly could be. -At half-past eight o’clock we got into our barge, with Miss Kerr and -Lord Spencer, and proceeded without any standard to the little harbour -below _St. Michael’s Mount_. Behind _St. Michael’s Mount_ is the little -town of _Marazion_, or “Market Jew,” which is supposed to have taken -its name from the Jews having in former times trafficked there. We -disembarked and walked up the _Mount_ by a circuitous rugged path over -rocks and turf, and entered the old castle, which is beautifully kept, -and must be a nice house to live in; as there are so many good rooms -in it. The dining-room, made out of the refectory, is very pretty; it -is surrounded by a frieze, representing ancient hunting. The chapel is -excessively curious. The organ is much famed; Albert played a little on -it, and it sounded very fine. Below the chapel is a dungeon, where some -years ago was discovered the skeleton of a large man without a coffin; -the entrance is in the floor of one of the pews. Albert went down -with Lord Spencer, and afterwards went with him and Sir James Clark -(who, with Lord Palmerston and Colonel Grey, had joined us,) up to the -tower, on the top of which is “St. Michael’s chair,” which, it is said, -betrothed couples run up to, and whoever gets first into the chair will -have at home the government of the house; and the old housekeeper--a -nice tidy old woman--said many a couple “does go there!” though Albert -and Lord Spencer said it was the awkwardest place possible to get at. -_St. Michael’s Mount_ belongs to Sir J. St. Aubyn. There were several -drawings there of _Mont St. Michel_ in _Normandy_, which is very like -this one; and was, I believe, inhabited by the same order of monks as -this was, _i.e._ Benedictines. We walked down again, had to step over -another boat in order to get into our barge, as the tide was so very -low, and returned on board the yacht before ten. - -The view from the top of _St. Michael’s_ is very beautiful and very -extensive, but unfortunately it was too thick and hazy to see it well. -A low ridge of sand separates _St. Michael’s Mount_ from _Marazion_ at -low water, and the sea at high water. From the sand to the summit of -the castle is about 250 feet. The chapel was originally erected, they -say, for the use of pilgrims who came here; and it owes its name to a -tradition of St. Michael the Archangel having rested on the rock. - -At half-past eleven Lord Spencer read on deck the short morning service -generally read at sea, which only lasted twenty or twenty-five minutes. -The awning was put up, and flags on the sides; and all the officers -and sailors were there, as well as ourselves. A flag was hoisted, as -is usual when the service is performed on board ship, and Lord Spencer -read extremely well. - -Albert made a most beautiful little sketch of _St. Michael’s Mount_. -Soon after two we left _Mount’s Bay_. About four we came opposite to -some very curious serpentine rocks, between _Mount’s Bay_ and _Lizard -Point_, and we stopped, that Albert might land. The gentlemen went with -him. Lord Spencer soon returned, saying that Albert was very anxious -I should see the beautiful little cave in these serpentine rocks; and -accordingly I got into the barge, with the children, and ladies, and -Lord Spencer, and we rowed to these rocks, with their caves and little -creeks. There were many cormorants and sea-gulls on the rocks. We -returned again, and were soon joined by Albert, who brought many fine -specimens which he had picked up. The stone is really beautifully -marked with red and green veins. - -We proceeded on our course, and reached _Falmouth_ before seven. The -fine afternoon was changed to a foggy, dull, cold evening. We have had -on board with us, since we left _Falmouth_, Mr. Taylor, mineral agent -to the Duchy of Cornwall, a very intelligent young man, married to a -niece of Sir Charles Lemon’s. - - - _Falmouth, Monday, September 7._ - -Immediately after breakfast, Albert left me to land and visit some -mines. The corporation of _Penryn_ were on board, and very anxious to -see “The Duke of Cornwall,” so I stepped out of the pavilion on deck -with Bertie, and Lord Palmerston told them that that was “The Duke of -Cornwall;” and the old mayor of _Penryn_ said that “he hoped he would -grow up a blessing to his parents and to his country.” - -A little before four o’clock, we all got into the barge, with the two -children, and rowed to the “Fairy.” We rowed through a literal _lane_ -of boats, full of people, who had surrounded the yacht ever since early -in the morning, and proceeded up the river by _St. Just’s Pool_, to the -left of which lies Sir C. Lemon’s place, and _Trefusis_ belonging to -Lord Clinton. We went up the _Truro_, which is beautiful,--something -like the _Tamar_, but almost finer, though not so bold as _Pentillie -Castle_ and _Cothele_,--winding between banks entirely wooded with -stunted oak, and full of numberless creeks. The prettiest are _King -Harry’s Ferry_ and a spot near _Tregothnan_ (Lord Falmouth’s), where -there is a beautiful little boat-house, quite in the woods, and on the -river, at the point where the _Tregony_ separates from the _Truro_. -Albert said the position of this boat-house put him in mind of Tell’s -Chapel in _Switzerland_. We went a little way up the _Tregony_, which -is most beautiful, with high sloping banks, thickly wooded down to the -water’s edge. Then we turned back and went up the _Truro_ to _Malpas_, -another bend of the river, from whence one can see _Truro_, the capital -of _Cornwall_. We stopped here awhile, as so many boats came out from a -little place called _Sunny Corner_, just below _Truro_, in order to see -us; indeed the whole population poured out on foot and in carts, &c. -along the banks; and cheered, and were enchanted when Bertie was held -up for them to see. It was a very pretty, gratifying sight. - -We went straight on to _Swan Pool_ outside _Pendennis Castle_, where we -got into the barge, and rowed near to the shore to see a net drawn. Mr. -Fox, a Quaker, who lives at _Falmouth_, and has sent us flowers, fruit, -and many other things, proposed to put in his net and draw, that we -might see all sorts of fish caught, but when it was drawn there was not -one fish! So we went back to the “Fairy.” The water near the shore in -_Swan Pool_ is so wonderfully clear that one could count the pebbles. - - - _Tuesday, September 8._ - -A wet morning when we rose and breakfasted with the children. At about -ten o’clock we entered _Fowey_, which is situated in a creek much like -_Dartmouth_, only not so beautiful, but still very pretty. We got -into the barge (leaving the children on board, and also Lord Spencer, -who was not quite well), and landed at _Fowey_ with our ladies and -gentlemen, and Mr. Taylor, whom we had brought with us from _Falmouth_. -We got into our carriage with the ladies, the gentlemen following in -others, and drove through some of the narrowest streets I ever saw in -_England_, and up perpendicular hills in the streets--it really quite -alarmed one; but we got up and through them quite safely. We then drove -on for a long way, on bad and narrow roads, higher and higher up, -commanding a fine and very extensive view of the very hilly country of -_Cornwall_, its hills covered with fields, and intersected by hedges. -At last we came to one field where there was no road whatever, but we -went down the hill quite safely, and got out of the carriage at the top -of another hill, where, surrounded by woods, stands a circular ruin, -covered with ivy, of the old castle of _Restormel_, belonging to the -Duchy of Cornwall, and in which the last Earl of Cornwall lived in the -thirteenth century. It was very picturesque from this point. - -We visited here the Restormel mine, belonging also to the Duchy of -Cornwall. It is an iron mine, and you go in on a level. Albert and I -got into one of the trucks and were dragged in by miners, Mr. Taylor -walking behind us. The miners wear a curious woollen dress, with a -cap like this: [Illustration] and the dress thus: [Illustration] and -they generally have a candle stuck in front of the cap. This time -candlesticks were stuck along the sides of the mine, and those who did -not drag or push the truck carried lights. Albert and the gentlemen -wore miners’ hats. There was no room for any one to pass between the -trucks and the rock, and only just room enough to hold up one’s head, -and not always that. It had a most curious effect, and there was -something unearthly about this lit-up cavern-like place. We got out and -scrambled a little way to see the veins of ore, and Albert knocked off -some pieces; but in general it is blown by gunpowder, being so hard. -The miners seemed so pleased at seeing us, and are intelligent, good -people. It was quite dazzling when we came into daylight again. - -We then got into our carriage and passed through the small town of -_Lostwithiel_, where an address was presented to us, and then we passed -through Mr. Agar Robarts’ Park, which reminded one of _Cothele_. We -returned by the same road till near _Fowey_, when we went through some -of the narrowest lanes I almost ever drove through, and so fearfully -stony. We drove along high above the river to _Place_, belonging to -Mr. Treffry, which has been restored according to drawings in his -possession, representing the house as it was in former times. A lady of -that name defended the house against the French during the absence of -her husband, in the fourteenth or fifteenth century. The old gentleman -showed us all over the house, and into an unfinished hall, lined with -marble and porphyry, all of which came from _Cornwall_. We then walked -down to the place of embarkation and proceeded at once to the yacht. -Mr. Taylor deserved the greatest credit for all the arrangements. He -and his father are what are called “Adventurers” of the mine. - - - _Osborne, Wednesday, September 9._ - -We got up about seven o’clock and found we had just passed _The -Needles_. - - - - -VISIT TO THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. - - - _Tuesday, August 27, 1861._ - -At eleven o’clock we all started in our own sociable, and another of -our carriages, and on ponies, for _Ross Castle_, the old ruin which -was a celebrated stronghold, and from which the Kenmare family take -their name. Here there was an immense crowd and a great many boats. -We got into a very handsome barge of eight oars--beautifully rowed. -Lord Castlerosse steering. The four children, and Lady Churchill, Lady -Castlerosse, and Lord Granville were with us. - -We rowed first round _Innisfallen Island_ and some way up the _Lower -Lake_. The view was magnificent. We had a slight shower, which alarmed -us all, from the mist which overhung the mountains; but it suddenly -cleared away and became very fine and very hot. At a quarter to one -we landed at the foot of the beautiful hill of _Glena_, where on a -small sloping lawn there is a very pretty little cottage. We walked -about, though it was overpoweringly hot, to see some of the splendid -views. The trees are beautiful,--oak, birch, arbutus, holly, yew,--all -growing down to the water’s edge, intermixed with heather. The hills, -rising abruptly from the lake, are completely wooded, which gives -them a different character from those in _Scotland_, though they -often reminded me of the dear _Highlands_. We returned to the little -cottage, where the quantity of midges and the smell of peat made us -think of _Alt-na-Giuthasach_. Upstairs, from Lady Castlerosse’s little -room, the view was towards a part of the _Lower Lake_, the outline of -which is rather low. We lunched, and afterwards re-embarked, and then -took that most beautiful row up the rapid, under the _Old Weir Bridge_, -through the channel which connects the two lakes, and which is very -intricate and narrow. Close to our right as we were going, we stopped -under the splendid hill of the _Eagle’s Nest_ to hear the _echo_ of -a bugle; the sound of which, though blown near by, was not heard. We -had to get out near the _Weir Bridge_ to let the empty boats be pulled -up by the men. The sun had come out and lit up the really magnificent -scenery splendidly; but it was most oppressively hot. We wound along -till we entered the _Upper Lake_, which opened upon us with all its -high hills--the highest, _The Reeks_, 3,400 feet high--and its islands -and points covered with splendid trees;--such arbutus (quite large -trees) with yews, making a beautiful foreground. We turned into a small -bay or creek, where we got out and walked a short way in the shade, -and up to where a tent was placed, just opposite a waterfall called -_Derricaunihy_, a lovely spot, but terribly infested by midges. In -this tent was tea, fruit, ice, cakes, and everything most tastefully -arranged. We just took some tea, which was very refreshing in the -great heat of this relaxing climate. The vegetation is quite that of -a jungle--ferns of all kinds and shrubs and trees,--all springing up -luxuriantly. We entered our boats and went back the same way we came, -admiring greatly the beauty of the scenery; and this time went down the -rapids in the boat. No boats, except our own, had followed us beyond -the rapids. But below them there were a great many, and the scene was -very animated and the people very noisy and enthusiastic. The Irish -always give that peculiar shrill shriek--unlike anything one ever hears -anywhere else. - - - _Wednesday, August 28._ - -At a quarter-past eleven we started on a most beautiful drive, of -which I annex the route. We drove with Mrs. Herbert and Bertie in -our sociable, driven from the box by Wagland;[64] and, though the -highest mountains were unfortunately occasionally enveloped in mist, -and we had slight showers, we were enchanted with the extreme beauty -of the scenery. The peeps of the lake; the splendid woods full of the -most magnificent arbutus, which in one place form, for a few yards, -an avenue under which you drive, with the rocks,--which are very -peculiar--all made it one of the finest drives we had ever taken. -Turning up by the village and going round, the _Torc_ mountain reminded -us of _Scotland_--of the woods above _Abergeldie_, of _Craig Daign_ and -_Craig Clunie_. It was _so_ fine. We got out at the top of the _Torc -Waterfall_ and walked down to the foot of it. We came home at half-past -one. At four we started for the boats, quite close by. The _Muckross -Lake_ is extremely beautiful; at the beginning of our expedition it -looked dark and severe in the mist and showers which kept coming on, -just as it does in the _Highlands_. Mr. Herbert steered. Our girls, -Mrs. Herbert, Lady Churchill, and Lord Granville were in the boat with -us. The two boys went in a boat rowed by gentlemen, and the rest in two -other boats. At Mr. and Mrs. Herbert’s request I christened one of the -points which runs into the lake with a bottle of wine, Albert holding -my arm when we came close by, so that it was most successfully smashed. - -[64] My coachman since 1857; and a good, zealous servant. He entered -the Royal service in 1831, and rode as postilion for seventeen years. -His father has been thirty-two years porter in the Royal Mews at -Windsor, and is now seventy-five years old; and has been sixty years -in the service. His grandfather was also in the Royal service, having -entered it in 1788; and his daughter is nursery-maid to the Prince of -Wales’s children. Four generations, therefore, have served the Royal -Family. - -When we emerged from under _Brickeen Bridge_ we had a fine view of the -_Lower Lake_ and of the scenery of yesterday, which rather puzzled me, -seeing it from another _point de vue_. At _Benson’s Point_ we stopped -for some time, merely rowing about backwards and forwards, or remaining -stationary, watching for the deer (all this is a deer forest as well -as at _Glena_), which we expected the dogs would find and bring down -into the water. But in vain: we waited till past six and no deer came. -The evening had completely cleared and became quite beautiful; and the -effect of the numbers of boats full of people, many with little flags, -rowing about in every direction and cheering and shouting, lit up by -the evening light, was charming. At _Darby’s Garden_ the shore was -densely crowded, and many of the women in their blue cloaks waded into -the water, holding their clothes up to their knees. - -We were home by seven o’clock, having again a slight sprinkling of -rain. - - - - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY SMITH, ELDER AND CO. - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Page 3 — Rocky Islanas changed to Rocky Islands. -Inconsistent hyphenation was made consistent only when a predominant - form was found in this book. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEAVES FROM THE JOURNAL OF OUR LIFE -IN THE HIGHLANDS, FROM 1848 TO 1861 *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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