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diff --git a/old/66096-0.txt b/old/66096-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 67ce942..0000000 --- a/old/66096-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10857 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels through the states of North America, -and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, -and 1797 [Vol. 1 of 2], by Isaac Weld - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces - of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 - [Vol. 1 of 2] - -Author: Isaac Weld - -Release Date: August 20, 2021 [eBook #66096] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Tim Lindell, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS THROUGH THE STATES OF -NORTH AMERICA, AND THE PROVINCES OF UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, DURING THE -YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797 [VOL. 1 OF 2] *** - - - - - Travels Through the States of North America, - and the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, - During the Years 1795, 1796, and 1797, Vol. I. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - +TRAVELS+ - - - THROUGH THE STATES - - OF - - +NORTH AMERICA+, - - AND THE - - PROVINCES OF - - UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, - - DURING - - THE YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797. - - ────────── - - BY +ISAAC WELD+, JUNIOR. - - ────────── - - SECOND EDITION. - - ILLUSTRATED AND EMBELLISHED WITH SIXTEEN PLATES. - - ────────── - - +IN TWO VOLUMES+. - - +VOL. I+ - - ════════════════════════════════════ - - +LONDON+: - - PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY. - - ═══ - - 1799. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +PREFACE+. - - -AT a period when war was spreading desolation over the fairest parts of -Europe, when anarchy seemed to be extending its frightful progress from -nation to nation, and when the storms that were gathering over his -native country[1] in particular, rendered it impossible to say how soon -any one of its inhabitants might be forced to seek for refuge in a -foreign land; the Author of the following pages was induced to cross the -Atlantic, for the purpose of examining with his own eyes into the - -Footnote 1: - - Ireland. - -truth of the various accounts which had been given of the flourishing -and happy condition of the United States of America, and of ascertaining -whether, in case of future emergency, any part of those territories -might be looked forward to, as an eligible and agreeable place of abode. -Arrived in America, he travelled pretty generally through the states of -Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, New Jersey, and New York; he -afterwards passed into the Canadas, desirous of obtaining equal -information as to the state of those provinces, and of determining from -his own immediate observations, how far the present condition of the -inhabitants of the British dominions in America might be inferior, or -otherwise, to that of the people of the States, who had now indeed -thrown off the yoke, but were formerly common members of the same -extensive empire. - -WHEN abroad, he had not the most distant intention of publishing his -travels; but finding on his return home, that much of the matter -contained in the following letters was quite new to his friends, and -being induced to think that it might prove equally new, and not wholly -unacceptable to the Public, he came to the resolution of committing them -to print: accordingly the present volume[2] is now offered to the world, -in an humble hope, that if not entertaining to all readers, it will at -least be so to some, as well as useful to future travellers. - -Footnote 2: - - The first edition was printed in one quarto volume. - -IF it shall appear to any one, that he has spoken with too much asperity -of American men and American manners, the Author begs that such language -may not be ascribed to hasty prejudice, and a blind partiality for every -thing that is European. He crossed the Atlantic strongly prepossessed in -favour of the people and the country, which he was about to visit; and -if he returned with sentiments of a different tendency, they resulted -solely from a cool and dispassionate observation of what chance -presented to his view when abroad. - -AN enthusiastic admirer of the beauties of nature, the scenery of the -countries through which he passed did not fail to attract a great part -of his attention; and interspersed through the book will be found views -of what he thought would be most interesting to his readers: they are -what he himself sketched upon the spot, that of Mount Vernon, the Seat -of General Washington, indeed, excepted, for which he is indebted to an -ingenious friend that he met in America, and the View of Bethlehem. He -has many more views in his possession; but he thought it better to -furnish his Publisher with a few only, in hopes that the engraving from -them would be well executed, rather than with a great many, which, had -they been given, must either have been in a style unworthy of the public -eye, or else have swelled the price of the volume beyond the reach of -many that may now read it. Of the resemblance which these views bear to -their respective archetypes, those alone can be judges who have been -spectators of the original scenes. With regard to the Cataract of -Niagara, however, it must be observed, that in views on so small a scale -no one must expect to find a lively representation of its wonderful and -terrific vastness, even were they executed by artists of far superior -merit; the inserting of the three in the present work is done merely in -the hope that they may help, together with the ground plan of the -precipice, if it may be so called, to give a general idea of the -position and appearance of that stupendous Cataract. Those who are -desirous of becoming more intimately acquainted with it, will soon be -gratified, at least so he has been given to understand by the artist in -whose hands they at present are, with a set of views from the masterly -pencil of Captain Fisher, of the Royal British Artillery, which are -allowed by all those who have visited the Falls of Niagara, to convey a -more perfect idea of that wonderful natural curiosity, than any -paintings or engravings that are extant. - -FINALLY, before the Reader proceeds to the perusal of the ensuing pages, -the Author will just beg leave to apprize him, that they are the -production of a very youthful pen, unaccustomed to write a great deal, -far less to write for the press. It is now for the first time that one -of its productions is ventured to be laid before the public eye. As a -first attempt, therefore, it is humbly hoped that the present work may -meet with a generous indulgence, and not be too severely criticised on -account of its numerous imperfections. - - - - Dublin, - 20th December 1798. - - - ------------------------------------------- - - - +ERRATA+.[3] - - - +VOL+. I. - - Page 205 line 10, for 60° read 6°. - Page 381 line 7, dele there. - - +VOL+. II. - - Page 18 line 28, for take, read take on. - Page 23 line 14, for houses, read storehouses. - Page 171 line 4 of the note, dele not. - -Footnote 3: - - These corrections have been applied to these two volumes. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +CONTENTS+ - - To +VOLUME + I. - - ───────── - - +LETTER + I. - - _Arrival on the Coast of America.—Trees page 1 - the first Object visible.—Description - of the Bay and River of - Delaware.—Passengers bound for - Philadelphia not suffered to land till - examined by the Health - Officers.—Arrival at - Philadelphia.—Poor Appearance of the - City from the Water.—Plan of the - City.—Wharfs.—Public and private - Buildings.—Some Account of the - Hospital, and of the Gaol_ - - - +LETTER + II. - - _Population of Philadelphia.—Some page 20 - Account of the Inhabitants, their - Character and Manners.—Private - Amusements.—Americans lose their Teeth - prematurely.—Theatrical Amusements - only permitted of - late.—Quakers.—President’s Levee and - Drawing Room.—Places of public - Worship.—Carriages, what Sort of, used - in Philadelphia.—Taverns, how - conducted in America.—Difficulty of - procuring Servants.—Character of the - lower Classes of People in America_ - - - +LETTER + III. - - _Journey to Baltimore.—Description of page 31 - the Country about - Philadelphia.—Floating Bridges over - the Schuylkill, how constructed.—Mills - in Brandy-wine Creek.—Improvement in - the Machinery of Flour Mills in - America.—Town of Wilmington.—Log - Houses.—Bad Roads.—Fine Prospects.—How - relished by - Americans.—Taverns.—Susquehannah - River.—Town of Baltimore.—Plan of the - Town.—Harbour.—Public and private - Buildings.—Inhabitants.—Country - between Baltimore and - Washington.—Execrable Roads_ - - - +LETTER + IV. - - _Foundation of the City of page 49 - Washington.—Not readily agreed to by - different States.—Choice of the Ground - left to General - Washington.—Circumstances to be - considered in chusing the Ground.—The - Spot fixed upon central to all the - States.—Also remarkably advantageously - situated for Trade.—Nature of the Back - Country Trade.—Summary View of the - principal Trading Towns in the United - States.—Their Prosperity shewn to - depend on the Back Country - Trade.—Description of the Patowmac - River.—Its Connection with other - Rivers pointed out.—Prodigious Extent - of the Water Communication from - Washington City in all - Directions.—Country likely to trade - immediately with Washington.—Situation - of Washington.—Plan of the - City.—Public Buildings.—Some begun, - others projected.—Capital President’s - House.—Hotel.—Stone and other building - Materials found in the - Neighbourhood.—Private Houses and - Inhabitants at present in the - City.—Different Opinions respecting - the future Greatness of the - City.—Impediments thrown in the Way of - its Improvement.—What has given rise - to this_ - - - +LETTER + V. - - _Some Account of Alexandria.—Mount page 90 - Vernon, the Seat of General - Washington.—Difficulty of finding the - Way thither through the - Woods.—Description of the Mount, and - of the Views from it.—Description of - the House and Grounds.—Slaves at Mount - Vernon.—Thoughts thereon.—A Person at - Mount Vernon to attend to - Strangers.—Return to Washington_ - - - +LETTER + VI. - - _Arrival at Philadelphia.—Some page 96 - Observations on the Climate of the - Middle States.—Public Carriages - prevented from plying between - Baltimore and Philadelphia by the - Badness of the Roads.—Left Baltimore - during Frost.—Met with American - Travellers on the Road.—Their - Behaviour preparatory to setting off - from an Inn.—Arrival on the Banks of - the Susquehannah.—Passage of that - River when frozen over.—Dangerous - Situation of the Passengers.—American - Travellers at the Tavern on the - opposite Side of the River.—Their - noisy Disputations_ - - - +LETTER + VII. - - _Philadelphia gayer in the Winter than page 104 - at any other Season.—Celebration in - that City of General Washington’s - Birth Day.—Some Account of General - Washington’s Person and of his - Character.—Americans dissatisfied with - his Conduct as President.—A Spirit of - Dissatisfaction common amongst them_ - - - +LETTER + VIII. - - _Singular Mildness of the Winter of page 109 - 1795-6.—Set out for - Lancaster.—Turnpike Road between that - Place and Philadelphia.—Summary View - of the State of - Pennsylvania.—Description of the Farms - between Lancaster and - Philadelphia.—The Farmers live in a - penurious Style.—Greatly inferior to - English Farmers.—Bad Taverns on this - Road.—Waggons and Waggoners.—Customs - of the latter.—Description of - Lancaster.—Lately made the Seat of the - State Government.—Manufactures carried - on there.—Rifle Guns.—Great Dexterity - with which the Americans use - them.—Anecdote of Two Virginian - Soldiers belonging to a Rifle - Regiment_ - - - +LETTER + IX. - - _Number of Germans in the Neighbourhood page 120 - of York and Lancaster.—How brought - over.—White Slave Trade.—Cruelty - frequently practised in the carrying - it on.—Character of the German - Settlers contrasted with that of the - Americans.—Passage of the Susquehannah - between York and Lancaster.—Great - Beauty of the Prospects along the - River.—Description of York.—Courts of - Justice there.—Of the Pennsylvanian - System of Judicature_ - - - +LETTER + X. - - _Of the Country near York.—Of the Soil page 131 - of the Country on each Side of the - Blue Mountains.—Frederic-town.—Change - in the Inhabitants and in the Country - as you proceed towards the - Sea.—Numbers of Slaves.—Tobacco - chiefly cultivated.—Inquisitiveness of - the People at the - Taverns.—Observations - thereon.—Description of the Great - Falls of the Patowmac River.—George - Town.—Of the Country between that - Place and Hoe’s Ferry.—Poisonous - Vines.—Port Tobacco.—Wretched - Appearance of the Country bordering - upon the Ferry.—Slaves - neglected.—Passage of the Patowmac - very dangerous.—Fresh Water - Oysters.—Landed on a deserted Part of - the Virginian Shore.—Great Hospitality - of the Virginians_ - - - +LETTER + XI. - - _Of the Northern Neck of Virginia.—First page 145 - settled by the English.—Houses built - by them remaining.—Disparity of - Condition amongst the - Inhabitants.—Estates worked by - Negroes.—Condition of the - Slaves.—Worse in the Carolinas.—Lands - worn out by Cultivation of - Tobacco.—Mode of cultivating and - curing Tobacco.—Houses in - Virginia.—Those of Wood - preferred.—Lower Classes of People in - Virginia.—Their unhealthy Appearance_ - - - +LETTER + XII. - - _Town of Tappahannock.—Rappahannock page 158 - River.—Sharks found in it.—Country - bordering upon Urbanna.—Fires common - in the Woods.—Manner of stopping their - dreadful Progress.—Mode of getting - Turpentine from - Trees.—Gloucester.—York Town.—Remains - of the Fortifications erected here - during the American War.—Houses - shattered by Balls still - remaining.—Cave in the Bank of the - River.—Williamsburgh.—State House in - Ruins.—Statue of Lord - Bottetourt.—College of William and - Mary.—Condition of the Students_ - - - +LETTER + XIII. - - _Hampton.—Ferry to Norfolk.—Danger in page 169 - crossing the numerous Ferries in - Virginia.—Norfolk.—Laws of Virginia - injurious to the Trading - Interest.—Streets narrow and dirty in - Norfolk.—Yellow Fever - there.—Observations on this - Disorder.—Violent Party Spirit amongst - the Inhabitants.—Few Churches in - Virginia.—Several in Ruins.—Private - Grave Yards_ - - - +LETTER + XIV. - - _Description of Dismal Swamp.—Wild Men page 178 - found in it.—Bears, Wolves, - &c.—Country between Swamp and - Richmond.—Mode of making Tar and - Pitch.—Poor Soil.—Wretched - Taverns.—Corn Bread.—Difficulty of - getting Food for - Horses.—Petersburgh.—Horse Races - there.—Description of Virginian - Horses.—Style of Riding in - America.—Description of Richmond, - Capital of Virginia.—Singular Bridge - across James River.—State House.—Falls - of James River.—Gambling common in - Richmond.—Lower Classes of People very - quarrelsome.—Their Mode of - Fighting.—Gouging_ - - - +LETTER + XV. - - _Description of Virginia between page 193 - Richmond and the Mountains.—Fragrance - of Flowers and Shrubs in the - Woods.—Melody of the Birds.—Of the - Birds of Virginia.—Mocking Bird.—Blue - Bird.—Red Bird, &c.—Singular Noises of - the Frogs.—Columbia.—Magazine - there.—Fire Flies in the Woods.—Green - Springs.—Wretchedness of the - Accommodation there.—Difficulty of - finding the Way through the - Woods.—Serpents.—Rattle-Snake.—Copper-Snake.—Black - Snake.—South-west, or Green - Mountains.—Soil of them.—Mountain - Torrents do great Damage.—Salubrity of - the Climate.—Great Beauty of the - Peasantry.—Many Gentlemen of Property - living here.—Monticello, the Seat of - Mr. Jefferson.—Vineyards.—Observations - on the Culture of the Grape, and the - Manufacture of Wine_ - - - +LETTER + XVI. - - _Of the Country between the South-west page 209 - and Blue Mountains.—Copper and Iron - Mines.—Lynchburgh.—New London.—Armoury - here.—Description of the Road over the - Blue Mountains.—Peaks of Otter, - highest of the Mountains.—Supposed - Height.—Much over-rated.—German - Settlers numerous beyond the Blue - Mountains.—Singular Contrast between - the Country and the Inhabitants on - each Side of the Mountains.—Of the - Weevil.—Of the Hessian Fly.—Bottetourt - County.—Its Soil.—Salubrity of the - Climate.—Medicinal Springs here.—Much - frequented_ - - - +LETTER + XVII. - - _Description of the celebrated Rock page 220 - Bridge, and of an immense - Cavern.—Description of the Shenandoa - Valley.—Inhabitants mostly - Germans.—Soil and - Climate.—Observations on American - Landscapes.—Mode of cutting down - Trees.—High Road to Kentucky, behind - Blue Mountains.—Much - frequented.—Uncouth, inquisitive - People.—Lexington.—Staunton.—Military - Titles very common in America.—Causes - thereof.—Winchester_ - - - +LETTER + XVIII. - - _Description of the Passage of Patowmac page 239 - and Shenandoah Rivers through a Break - in the Blue Mountains.—Some - Observations on Mr. Jefferson’s - Account of the Scene.—Summary Account - of Maryland.—Arrival at - Philadelphia.—Remarks on the Climate - of the United States.—State of the - City of Philadelphia during the Heat - of Summer.—Difficulty of preserving - Butter, Milk, Meat, Fish, &c.—General - Use of Ice.—Of the Winds.—State of - Weather in America depends greatly - upon them_ - - - +LETTER + XIX. - - _Travelling in America without a page 256 - Companion not pleasant.—Meet two - English Gentlemen.—Set out together - for Canada.—Description of the Country - between Philadelphia and New - York.—Bristol.—Trenton.—Princeton.—College - there.—Some Account of - it.—Brunswick.—Posaik - Water-fall.—Copper Mine.—Singular - Discovery thereof.—New - York.—Description of the - City.—Character and Manners of the - Inhabitants.—Leave it abruptly on - Account of the Fevers.—Passage up - North River from New York to - Albany.—Great Beauty of the North - River.—West Point.—Highlands.—Gusts of - Wind common in passing - them.—Albany.—Description of the City - and Inhabitants.—Celebration of the - 4th of July.—Anniversary of American - Independence_ - - - +LETTER + XX. - - _Departure from Albany.—Difficulty of page 274 - hiring a Carriage.—Arrival at - Cohoz.—Description of the curious Fall - there of the Mohawk - River.—Still-water.—Saratoga.—Few of - the Works remaining there.—Singular - Mineral Springs near Saratoga.—Fort - Edward.—Miss M‘Crea cruelly murdered - there by Indians.—Fort Ann, wretched - Road thither.—Some Observations on the - American Woods.—Horses - jaded.—Difficulty of getting - forward.—Arrive at - Skenesborough.—Dreadfully infested by - Musquitoes.—Particular Description of - that Insect.—Great Danger ensues - sometimes from their Bite.—Best - Remedy_ - - - +LETTER + XXI. - - _Embark on Lake Champlain.—Difficulty of page 288 - procuring Provisions at Farms - bordering upon it.—Ticonderoga.—Crown - Point.—Great Beauty of the - Scenery.—General Description of Lake - Champlain and the adjacent - Country.—Captain Thomas and his - Indians arrive at Crown - Point.—Character of Thomas.—Reach St. - John’s.—Description of that - Place.—Great Difference observable in - the Face of the Country, Inhabitants, - &c. in Canada and in the - States.—Chambly Castle.—Calashes.—Bons - Dieux.—Town of La Prarie.—Great - Rapidity of the River Saint - Lawrence.—Cross it to - Montreal.—Astonishment on seeing large - Ships at Montreal.—Great Depth of the - River_ - - - +LETTER + XXII. - - _Description of the Town of Montreal.—Of page 309 - the public - Buildings.—Churches.—Funeral - Ceremonies.—Convents.—Barracks.—Fortifications.—Inhabitants - mostly French.—Their Character and - Manners.—Charming Prospects in the - Neighbourhood of the Town.—Amusements - during Summer.—Parties of Pleasure up - the Mountain.—Of the Fur Trade.—The - Manner in which it is carried - on.—Great Enterprise of the North West - Company of Merchants.—Sketch of Mr. - M’Kenzie’s Expeditions over Land to - the Pacific Ocean.—Differences between - the North West and Hudson’s Bay - Companies_ - - - +LETTER + XXIII. - - _Voyage to Quebec down the St. page 331 - Lawrence.—A Bateau preferable to a - Keel Boat.—Town of - Sorelle.—Ship-building - there.—Description of Lake St. - Pierre.—Batiscon.—Charming Scenery - along the Banks of St. Lawrence.—In - what respects it differs from the - Scenery along any other River in - America.—Canadian Houses.—Sketch of - the Character and Manners of the lower - Classes of Canadians.—Their - Superstition.—Anecdote.—St. Augustin - Calvaire.—Arrive at Quebec_ - - - +LETTER + XXIV. - - _Situation of the City of page 341 - Quebec.—Divided into Upper and Lower - Town.—Description of each.—Great - Strength of the Upper Town.—Some - Observations on the Capture of Quebec - by the English Army under General - Wolfe.—Observations on Montgomery’s - and Arnold’s Attack during the - American War.—Census of Inhabitants of - Quebec.—The Chateau.—The Residence of - the Governor.—Monastery of the - Recollects.—College of the - Jesuits.—One Jesuit remaining of great - Age.—His great Wealth.—His Character. - —Nunneries.—Engineer’s Drawing - Room.—State - House.—Armoury.—Barracks.—Market-place.—Dogs - used in Carts.—Grandeur of the - Prospects from Parts of the Upper - Town.—Charming Scenery of the - Environs.—Description of Montmorenci - Water Fall.—Of La Chaudiere Water - Fall_ - - - +LETTER + XXV. - - _Of the Constitution, Government, Laws, page 361 - and Religion of the Provinces of Upper - and Lower Canada.—Estimate of the - Expences of the Civil List, of the - Military Establishment, and the - Presents to the Indians.—Salaries of - certain Officers of the Crown.—Imports - and Exports.—Taxes._ - - - +LETTER + XXVI. - - _Of the Soil and Productions of Lower page 379 - Canada—Observations on the Manufacture - of Sugar from the Maple-tree.—Of the - Climate of Lower Canada.—Amusements of - People of all Descriptions during - Winter.—Carioles.—Manner of guarding - against the Cold.—Great Hardiness of - the Horses.—State of the River St. - Lawrence on the Dissolution of - Winter.—Rapid Progress of Vegetation - during Spring.—Agreeableness of the - Summer and Autumn Seasons_ - - - +LETTER + XXVII. - - _Inhabitants of Lower Canada.—Of the page 399 - Tenures by which Lands are held.—Not - favourable to the Improvement of the - Country.—Some Observations - thereon.—Advantages of settling in - Canada and the United States - compared.—Why Emigrations to the - latter Country are more - general.—Description of a Journey to - Stoneham Township near - Quebec.—Description of the River St. - Charles.—Of Lake St. Charles.—Of - Stoneham Township_ - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LIST + OF + PLATES. + - - ────── - VOL. I. - - - Map of the NORTHERN STATES of America _Page_ 1 - - Plan of the CITY of WASHINGTON 81 - - View of MOUNT VERNON, the Seat of 92 - General Washington - - American STAGE WAGGON 27 - - View of the Natural ROCK BRIDGE in 221 - Virginia - - View on the HUDSON RIVER[_N.B._] 268 - - View of the COHOZ FALL 275 - - Map of UPPER and LOWER CANADA 305 - - Plan of the CITY of QUEBEC 342 - - View of CAPE DIAMOND, from Wolfe’s Cove, 346 - near Quebec - - CANADIAN CALASH or MARCHE-DONC 306 - -_N.B._: In some of the Impressions, by mistake, called “View of the -Patowmac River from Mount Vernon.” - - - VOL. II. - - - An Eye Sketch of the FALLS of NIAGARA 118 - View of the HORSE-SHOE FALL of NIAGARA 118 - ── Lesser FALLS of NIAGARA 118 - General View of the FALLS of NIAGARA 121 - View of BETHLEHEM, a MORAVIAN Settlement 355 - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -[Illustration: - - _PART_ of the - UNITED STATES _of_ NORTH AMERICA. - - Click on the map for a higher resolution version. -] - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - +TRAVELS+ - - THROUGH THE STATES OF - - +NORTH AMERICA+. - - --------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + I. - -_Arrival on the Coast of America.—Trees the first Object - visible.—Description of the Bay and River of Delaware.—Passengers - bound for Philadelphia not suffered to land till examined by the - Health Officers.—Arrival at Philadelphia.—Poor Appearance of the City - from the Water.—Plan of the City.—Wharfs.—Public and private - Buildings.—Some Account of the Hospital, and of the Gaol._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, November, 1795. - -OUR passage across the Atlantic was disagreeable in the extreme. The -weather for the most part was bad, and calms and heavy adverse gales so -frequently retarded our progress to the westward, that it was not until -the fifty-ninth day from that on which we left Ireland, that we -discovered the American coast. I shall not attempt to describe the joy -which the sight of land, a sight that at once relieved the eye from the -uninteresting and wearisome view of sky and water, and that afforded to -each individual a speedy prospect of delivery from the narrow confines -of a small trading vessel, diffused amongst the passengers. You, who -have yourself made a long voyage, can best imagine what it must have -been. - -The first objects which meet the eye on approaching the American coast, -south of New York, are the tops of trees, with which the shore is -thickly covered to the very edge of the water. These, at a distance, -have the appearance of small islands; but as you draw nearer they are -seen to unite; and the tall forest rising gradually out of the ocean, at -last presents itself in all its majesty to your view. The land which we -made was situated very near to the bay of Delaware, and before noon we -passed between the capes Henlopen and May, which guard the entrance of -the bay. The capes are only eighteen miles apart, but within them the -bay expands to the breadth of thirty miles. It afterwards becomes -gradually narrower, until it is lost in the river of the same name, at -Bombay Hook, seven leagues distant from the Atlantic. The river -Delaware, at this place, is about six miles wide; at Reedy Island, -twenty miles higher up, it is three miles wide; and at Philadelphia, one -hundred and twenty miles from the sea, one mile wide. - -[Sidenote: SHORES OF THE DELAWARE.] - -The shores of the bay and of the river Delaware, for a very considerable -distance upwards, are low; and they are covered, like the coast, with -one vast forest, excepting merely in a few places, where extensive -marshes intervene. Nothing, however, could be more pleasing than the -views with which we were entertained as we sailed up to Philadelphia. -The trees had not yet quite lost their foliage, and the rich red and -yellow tints which autumn had suffused over the leaves of the oaks and -poplars appeared beautifully blended with the sombre green of the lofty -pines; whilst the river, winding slowly and smoothly along under the -banks, reflected in its glassy surface the varied colours of the objects -on shore, as well as the images of multitudes of vessels of various -sizes, which, as far as the eye could reach, were seen gliding silently -along with the tide. As you approach towards Philadelphia, the banks of -the river become more elevated; and on the left hand side, where they -are much cleared, they are interspersed with numberless neat farm -houses, with villages and towns; and are in some parts cultivated down -to the very edge of the water. The New Jersey shore, on the right hand -side, remains thickly wooded, even as far as the city. - -Vessels very commonly ascend to Philadelphia, when the wind is -favourable, in twenty-four hours; but unfortunately, as our ship entered -the river, the wind died away, and she had to depend solely upon the -tide, which flows at the rate of about three miles only in the hour. -Finding that the passage up to the city was likely therefore to become -tedious, I would fain have gone on shore far below it; but this the -captain would not permit me to do. By the laws of Pennsylvania, enacted -in consequence of the dreadful pestilence which raged in the capital in -the year 1793, the master of any vessel bound for that port is made -subject to a very heavy fine, if he suffers any person from on board -her, whether mariner or passenger, to go on shore in any part of the -state, before his vessel is examined by the health officer: and any -person that goes on shore, contrary to the will of the master of the -vessel, is liable to be imprisoned for a considerable length of time. In -case the existence of this law should not be known on board a vessel -bound for a port in Pennsylvania, it is the business of the pilot to -furnish the matter and the passengers on board with copies of it, with -which he always comes provided. The health officer, who is a regular -bred physician, resides at Mifflin Fort, four miles below the city, -where there is a small garrison kept. A boat is always sent on shore for -him from the ship. After having been tossed about on the ocean for nine -weeks nearly, nothing could be more tantalizing than to be kept thus -close to the shore without being permitted to land. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -Philadelphia, as you approach by the river, is not seen farther off than -three miles, a point of land covered with trees concealing it from the -view. On weathering this point it suddenly opens upon you, and at that -distance it looks extremely well; but on a nearer approach, the city -makes a poor appearance, as nothing is visible from the water but -confused heaps of wooden storehouses, crowded upon each other, the chief -of which are built upon platforms of artificial ground, and wharfs which -project a considerable way into the river. The wharfs are of a -rectangular form, and built of wood; they jut out in every direction, -and are well adapted for the accommodation of shipping, the largest -merchant vessels being able to lie close alongside them. Behind these -wharfs, and parallel to the river, runs Water-street. This is the first -street which you usually enter after landing, and it does not serve to -give a stranger a very favourable opinion either of the neatness or -commodiousness of the public ways of Philadelphia. It is no more than -thirty feet wide; and immediately behind the houses, which stand on the -side farthest from the water, a high bank, supposed to be the old bank -of the river, rises, which renders the air very confined. Added to this, -such stenches at times prevail in it, owing in part to the quantity of -filth and dirt that is suffered to remain on the pavement, and in part -to what is deposited in waste houses, of which there are several in the -street, that it is really dreadful to pass through it. It was here that -the malignant yellow fever broke out in the year 1793, which made such -terrible ravages; and in the summer season, in general, the street is -found extremely unhealthy. That the inhabitants, after suffering so much -from the sickness that originated in it, should remain thus inattentive -to the cleanliness of Water-street is truly surprising; more especially -so, when it is considered, that the streets in the other parts of the -town are as much distinguished for the neatness that prevails throughout -them, as this one is for its dirty condition. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -On the level plot of ground on the top of the bank which rises behind -Water-street, the city of Philadelphia was originally laid out, and it -was intended by the founder that no houses should have been erected at -the bottom of it; however, as there was no positive law to this effect, -the convenience of the situation soon tempted numbers to build there, -and they are now encroaching, annually, on the river, by throwing wharfs -farther out into the stream. In another respect also the original plan -of the city was not adhered to. The ground allotted for it was in the -form of an oblong square, two miles in length, reaching from the river -Schuylkill to the Delaware, and one mile in breadth. Pursuant to this -scheme, the houses were begun on the Delaware side; but instead of -having been carried on towards the Schuylkill, the current of building -has kept entirely on one side. The houses extend for two miles nearly -along the Delaware, but, on an average, not more than half a mile -towards the Schuylkill: this is to be attributed to the great -superiority of the one river over the other. All the houses built beyond -the boundary line of the oblong square are said to be in the -“Liberties,” as the jurisdiction of the corporation does not extend to -that part of the town. Here the streets are very irregularly built, but -in the city they all intersect each other at right angles, according to -the original plan. The principal street is one hundred feet wide; the -others vary from eighty to fifty. They are all tolerably well paved with -pebble stones in the middle; and on each side, for the convenience of -passengers, there is a footway paved with red brick. - -The houses within the limits of the city are for the most part built of -brick; a few, and a few only, are of wood. - -In the old parts of the town they are in general small, heavy, and -inconvenient; but amongst those which have been lately erected, many are -to be found that are light, airy, and commodious. In the whole city, -however, there are only two or three houses that particularly attract -the attention, on account of their size and architecture, and but little -beauty is observable in the designs of any of these. The most spacious -and the most remarkable one amongst them stands in Chesnut-street, but -it is not yet quite finished. At present it appears a huge mass of red -brick and pale blue marble, which bids defiance to simplicity and -elegance. This superb mansion, according to report, has already cost -upwards of fifty thousand guineas, and stands as a monument of the -increasing luxury of the city of Philadelphia. - -As for the public buildings, they are all heavy tasteless piles of red -brick, ornamented with the same sort of blue marble as that already -mentioned, and which but ill accord together, unless indeed we except -the new Bank of the United States, and the presbyterian church in -High-street. The latter building is ornamented with a handsome portico -in front, supported by six pillars in the Corinthian order; but it is -seen to great disadvantage on account of the market house, which -occupies the center of the street before it. The buildings next to -these, that are most deserving of notice, are the State House, the -President’s House, the Hospital, the Bettering House, and the Gaol. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -The State House is situated in Chesnut-street; and, considering that no -more than fifty-three years elapsed from the time the first cabin was -built on the spot marked out for the city, until it was erected, the -architecture calls forth both our surprise and admiration. The State -House is appropriated to the use of the legislative bodies of the state. -Attached to this edifice are the congress and the city-halls. In the -former, the congress of the United States meets to transact business. -The room allotted to the representatives of the lower house is about -sixty feet in length, and fitted up in the plainest manner. At one end -of it is a gallery, open to every person that chuses to enter it; the -stair-case leading to which runs directly from the public street. The -senate chamber is in the story above this, and it is furnished and -fitted up in a much superior style to that of the lower house. In the -city hall the courts of justice are held, the supreme court of the -United States, as well as that of the state of Pennsylvania, and those -of the city. - -The president’s house, as it is called, was erected for the residence of -the president, before the removal of the seat of the federal government -from Philadelphia was agitated. The original plan of this building was -drawn by a private gentleman, resident in the neighbourhood of -Philadelphia, and was possessed, it is said, of no small share of merit; -but the committee of citizens, that was appointed to take the plan into -consideration, and to direct the building, conceiving that it could be -improved upon, reversed the positions of the upper and lower stories, -placing the latter at top, so that the pilasters, with which it is -ornamented, appear suspended in the air. The committee also contrived, -that the windows of the principal apartments, instead of opening into a -spacious area in front of the house, as was designed at first, should -face towards the confined back yards of the adjoining houses. This -building is not yet finished, and as the removal of the seat of -government to the federal city of Washington is so shortly to take -place, it is most probable that it will never be occupied by the -president. To what purpose it will be now applied is yet undetermined. -Some imagine, that it will be converted into a city hotel; others, that -it will be destined for the residence of the governor of the state. For -the latter purpose, it would be unfit in the extreme, the salary of the -governor being so inconsiderable, that it would not enable him to keep -up an establishment suitable to a dwelling of one-fourth part the size -of it. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -The hospital, for its airiness, for its convenient accommodation for the -sick and infirm, and for the neatness exhibited throughout every part of -it, cannot be surpassed by any institution of the kind in the world. The -plan of the building is in the form of the letter H. At present but one -wing and a part of the center are finished; but the rest of the building -is in a state of forwardness. It is two stories high, and underneath the -whole are cells for lunatics. Persons labouring under any disorder of -body or mind are received into this hospital, excepting such as have -diseases that are contagious, and of a malignant nature; such patients, -however, have the advice of the attending physicians gratis, and are -supplied with medicine from the hospital dispensary. - -The productive stock of this hospital, in the year 1793, was estimated -£.17,065 currency; besides which there are estates belonging to it that -as yet produce nothing. The same year, the legislature granted £.10,000 -for enlarging the building, and adding thereto a Lying-in and Foundling -hospital. The annual private donations are very considerable. Those that -contribute a certain sum have the power of electing the directors, who -are twelve in number, and chosen yearly. The directors appoint six of -the most skilful surgeons and physicians in the city to attend; there is -also a surgeon and apothecary resident in the home. From the year 1756, -when it was built, to the year 1793 inclusive, nearly 9,000 patients -were admitted into this hospital, upwards of 6,000 of whom were relieved -or cured. The hospital stands within the limits of the city, but it is -more than a quarter of a mile removed from any of the other buildings. -There are spacious walks within the inclosure for such of the patients -as are in a state of convalescence. - -The Bettering House, which is under the care of the overseers of the -poor, stands in the same neighbourhood, somewhat farther removed from -the houses of the city. It is a spacious building of brick, with -extensive walks and gardens. The poor of the city and neighbourhood are -here furnished with employment, and comfortably lodged and dieted. -During the severity of the winter season, many aged and reduced persons -seek refuge in this place, and leave it again on the return of spring. -Whilst they stay there, they are under very little restraint, and go in -and out when they please; they must, however, behave orderly. This -institution is supported by a tax on the town. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -The gaol is a spacious building of common stone, one hundred feet in -front. It is fitted up with solitary cells, on the new plan, and the -apartments are all arched, to prevent the communication of fire. Behind -the building are extensive yards, which are secured by lofty walls. This -gaol is better regulated, perhaps, than any other on the face of the -globe. By the new penal laws of Pennsylvania, lately enacted, no crime -is punishable with death, excepting murder of the first degree, by which -is meant, murder that is perpetrated by wilful premeditated intention, -or in attempts to commit rape, robbery, or the like. Every other -offence, according to its enormity, is punished by solitary imprisonment -of a determined duration. Objections may be made to this mode of -punishment, as not being sufficiently severe on the individual to atone -for an atrocious crime; nor capable, because not inflicted in public, of -deterring evil-minded persons in the community from the commission of -offences which incur the rigour of the law; but on a close examination, -it will be found to be very severe; and as far as an opinion can be -formed from the trial that has been hitherto made by the state of -Pennsylvania, it seems better calculated to restrain the excesses of the -people than any other. If any public punishment could strike terror into -the lawless part of the multitude, it is as likely that the infliction -of death would do it as any whatsoever: but death is divested of many of -his terrors, after being often presented to our view; so that we find in -countries, for instance in England, where it occurs often as punishment, -the salutary effects that might be expected from it are in a great -measure lost. The unfortunate wretch, who is doomed to forfeit his life -in expiation of the crimes he has committed, in numberless instances, -looks forward with apparent unconcern to the moment in which he is to be -launched into eternity; his companions around him only condole with him, -because his career of iniquity has so suddenly been impeded by the -course of justice: or, if he is not too much hardened in the paths of -vice, but falls a prey to remorse, and sees all the horrors of his -impending fate, they endeavour to rally his broken spirits by the -consoling remembrance, that the pangs he has to endure are but the pangs -of a moment, which they illustrate by the speedy exit of one whose death -he was perhaps himself witness to but a few weeks before. A month does -not pass over in England without repeated executions; and there is -scarcely a vagabond to be met with in the country, who has seen a fellow -creature suspended from the gallows. We all know what little good effect -such spectacles produce. But immured in darkness and solitude, the -prisoner suffers pangs worse than death a hundred times in the day: he -is left to his own bitter reflections; there is no one thing to divert -his attention, and he endeavours in vain to escape from the horrors -which continually haunt his imagination. In such a situation the most -hardened offender is soon reduced to a state of repentance. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -But punishment by imprisonment, according to the laws of Pennsylvania, -is imposed, not only as an expiation of past offences, and an example to -the guilty part of society, but for another purpose, regarded by few -penal codes in the world, the reform of the criminal. The regulations of -the gaol, are calculated to promote this effect as soon as possible, so -that the building, indeed, deserves the name of a penitentiary house -more than that of a gaol. As soon as a criminal is committed to the -prison he is made to wash; his hair is shorn, and if not decently -clothed, he is furnished with clean apparel; then he is thrown into a -solitary cell, about nine feet long and four wide, where he remains -debarred from the sight of every living being excepting his gaoler, -whose duty it is to attend to the bare necessities of his nature, but -who is forbidden, on any account, to speak to him without there is -absolute occasion. If a prisoner is at all refractory, or if the offence -for which he is imprisoned is of a very atrocious nature, he is then -confined in a cell secluded even from the light of heaven. This is the -worst that can be inflicted upon him. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -The gaol is inspected twice every week by twelve persons appointed for -that purpose, who are chosen annually from amongst the citizens of -Philadelphia. Nor is it a difficult matter to procure these men, who -readily and voluntarily take it upon them to go through the troublesome -functions of the office without any fee or emolument whatever. They -divide themselves into committees; each of these takes it in turn, for a -stated period, to visit every part of the prison; and a report is made -to the inspectors at large, who meet together at times regularly -appointed. From the report of the committee an opinion is formed by the -inspectors, who, with the consent of the judges, regulate the treatment -of each individual prisoner during his confinement. This is varied -according to his crime, and according to his subsequent repentance. -Solitary confinement in a dark cell is looked upon as the severest -usage; next, solitary confinement in a cell with the admission of light; -next, confinement in a cell where the prisoner is allowed to do some -sort of work; lastly, labour in company with others. The prisoners are -obliged to bathe twice every week, proper conveniencies for that purpose -being provided within the walls of the prison, and also to change their -linen, with which they are regularly provided. Those in solitary -confinement are kept upon bread and water; but those who labour are -allowed broth, porridge, puddings, and the like: meat is dispensed only -in small quantities, twice in the week. Their drink is water; on no -pretence is any other beverage suffered to be brought into the prison. -This diet is found, by experience, to afford the prisoners strength -sufficient to perform the labour that is imposed upon them; whereas a -more generous one would only serve to render their minds less humble and -submissive. Those who labour, are employed in the particular trade to -which they have been accustomed, provided it can be carried on in the -prison; if not acquainted with any, something is soon found that they -can do. One room is set apart for shoemakers, another for taylors, a -third for carpenters, and so on; and in the yards are stone-cutters, -smiths, nailers, &c. &c. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -Excepting the cells, which are at a remote part of the building, the -prison has the appearance of a large manufactory. Good order and decency -prevail throughout, and the eye of a spectator is never assailed by the -sight of such ghastly and squalid figures as are continually to be met -with in our prisons; so far, also, is a visitor from being insulted, -that he is scarcely noticed as he passes through the different wards. -The prisoners are forbidden to speak to each other without there is -necessity; they are also forbidden to laugh, or to sing, or to make the -smallest disturbance. An overseer attends continually to see that every -one performs his work diligently; and in case of the smallest resistance -to any of the regulations, the offender is immediately cast into a -solitary cell, to subsist on bread and water till he returns to a proper -sense of his behaviour; but the dread all those have of this treatment, -who have once experienced it, is such, that it is seldom found necessary -to repeat it. The women are kept totally apart from the men, and are -employed in a manner suitable to their sex. The labourers all eat -together in one large apartment; and regularly, every Sunday, there is -divine service, at which all attend. It is the duty of the chaplain to -converse at times with the prisoners, and endeavour to reform their -minds and principles. The inspectors, when they visit the prison, also -do the same; so that when a prisoner is liberated, he goes out, as it -were, a new man; he has been habituated to employment, and has received -good instructions. The greatest care is also taken to find him -employment the moment he quits the place of his confinement. According -to the regulations, no person is allowed to visit the prison without -permission of the inspectors. The greatest care is also taken to -preserve the health of the prisoners, and for those who are sick there -are proper apartments and good advice provided. The longest period of -confinement is for a rape, which is not to be less than ten years, but -not to exceed twenty-one. For high treason, the length of confinement is -not to be less than six nor more than twelve years. There are prisons in -every county throughout Pennsylvania, but none as yet are established on -the same plan as that which has been described. Criminals are frequently -sent from other parts of the state to receive punishment in the prison -of Philadelphia. - -So well is this gaol conducted, that instead of being an expense, it now -annually produces a considerable revenue to the state. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + II. - -_Population of Philadelphia.—Some Account of the Inhabitants, their - Character and Manners.—Private Amusements.—Americans lose their - Teeth prematurely.—Theatrical Amusements only permitted of - late.—Quakers.—President’s Levee and Drawing Room.—Places of public - Worship.— Carriages, what sort of, used in Philadelphia.—Taverns, how - conducted in America.—Difficulty of procuring Servants.—Character of - the lower Classes of People in America._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, November. - -PHILADELPHIA, according to the census taken in the Year 1790, contained -42,000 people. From the natural increase, however, of population, and -the influx of strangers, the number is supposed now to be near 50,000, -notwithstanding the ravages of the yellow fever in 1793, which swept off -4,000 people. The inhabitants consist of English, Irish, Scotch, -Germans, French, and of American born citizens, descended from people of -these different nations, who are of course by far the most numerous -class. The inhabitants are for the most part engaged in some sort of -business; a few, and a few only, live without any ostensible -professions, on the fortunes which they themselves have raised; but -these men are not idle or inattentive to the increase of their property, -being ever on the watch to profit by the sale of lands, which they have -purchased, and to buy more on advantageous terms. It would be a -difficult matter to find a man of any property in the country, who is -not concerned in the buying or selling of land, which may be considered -in America as an article of trade. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -In a large city, like Philadelphia, where people are assembled together -from so many different quarters, there cannot fail to be a great -diversity in the manners of the inhabitants. It is a remark, however, -very generally made, not only by foreigners, but also by persons from -other parts of the United States, that the Philadelphians are extremely -deficient in hospitality and politeness towards strangers. Amongst the -uppermost circles in Philadelphia, pride, haughtiness, and ostentation -are conspicuous; and it seems as if nothing could make them happier than -that an order of nobility should be established, by which they might be -exalted above their fellow citizens, as much as they are in their own -conceit. In the manners of the people in general there is a coldness and -reserve, as if they were suspicious of some designs against them, which -chills to the very heart those who come to visit them. In their private -societies a _tristesse_ is apparent, near which mirth and gaiety can -never approach. It is no unusual thing, in the genteelest houses, to see -a large party of from twenty to thirty persons assembled, and seated -round a room, without partaking of any other amusement than what arises -from the conversation, most frequently in whispers, that passes between -the two persons who are seated next to each other. The party meets -between six and seven in the evening; tea is served with much form; and -at ten, by which time most of the company are wearied with having -remained so long stationary, they return to their own homes. Still, -however, they are not strangers to music, cards, or dancing; their -knowledge of music, indeed, is at a very low ebb; but in dancing, which -appears to be their most favourite amusement, they certainly excel. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -The women, in general, whilst young, are very pretty, but by the time -they become mothers of a little family they lose all their beauty, their -complexions fade away, their teeth begin to decay, and they hardly -appear like the same creatures. In a few instances only it would be -possible to find a fine woman of the age of forty, who has had a large -family. The sudden decay of the teeth is a circumstance which has -engaged the attention of the faculty; both men and women, American born, -losing them very generally at an early age. Some ascribe it to the great -and sudden changes in the weather, from heat to cold; but negroes, who -are exposed to the same transition of climate, are distinguished for the -whiteness and beauty of their teeth; and the Indians also, who are more -exposed than either, preserve their teeth in good order. Others -attribute it to the immoderate use of confectionary. Of confectionary, -the Americans in the towns certainly make an inordinate use; but in the -country, where the people have not an opportunity of getting such -things, the men, but more generally the women, also lose their teeth -very prematurely. Most probably it is owing to the very general use they -make of salted provisions. In the country parts of America in -particular, the people live upon salted pork and salted fish nearly the -whole year round. - -It is only within a few years past, since 1779, that any public -amusements have been suffered in this city; the old corporation, which -consisted mostly of the Quakers, and not of the most liberal minded -people in the city, having always opposed the establishment of any place -for the purpose. Now, however, there are two theatres and an -amphitheatre. Little or no use is made of the old theatre, which is of -wood, and a very indifferent building. The new one is built of brick, -and neatly fitted up within; but it is hardly large enough for the town. -A shocking custom obtains here, of smoking tobacco in the house, which -at times is carried to such an excess, that those to whom it is -disagreeable are under the necessity of going away. To the people in the -pit, wine and porter is brought between the acts, precisely as if they -were in a tavern. The actors are procured, with a very few exceptions, -from Great Britain and Ireland; none of them are very eminent -performers, but they are equal to what are usually met with in the -country towns of England. The amphitheatre is built of wood; equestrian -and other exercises are performed there, similar to those at Astley’s. -Dancing assemblies are held regularly every fortnight through the -winter, and occasionally there are public concerts. - -During summer, the people that can make it convenient retire to country -houses in the neighbourhood of the town, and all public and private -amusements cease; winter is the season for them, the Congress being then -assembled, and trade not being so closely attended to, as the navigation -of the river is then commonly impeded by ice. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -The president finds it necessary, in general, to come to Philadelphia -preparatory to the meeting of congress, and resides there during the -whole of the session. Once in the week, during his stay in the city, he -has levees, between the hours of three and four in the afternoon. At -these he always appears himself in a court dress, and it is expected -that the foreign ministers should always attend in the same style; this -they constantly do, excepting the French minister, who makes a point of -going in dishabille, not to say worse of it. Other persons are at -liberty to go as they think proper. Mrs. Washington, also, has a drawing -room once every week. On this occasion the ladies are seated in great -form round the apartment, and tea, coffee, &c. served[4]. - -Footnote 4: - - Whether the levee is kept up by the present president, or not, I have - not heard. Many objections were made to it by the democratic party - during the administration of General Washington, as being inconsistent - with the spirit of a republican government, and destructive of that - equality which ought to reign amongst the citizens of every class. - -Philadelphia is the grand residence of the Quakers in America, but their -number does not bear the same proportion now to that of the other -citizens which it did formerly. At present they form about one fourth -only of the inhabitants. This does not arise from any diminution of the -number of Quakers, on the contrary they have considerably increased, but -from the great influx into the city of persons of a different -persuasion. Belonging to the Quakers there are five places for public -worship; to the Presbyterians and Seceders six; to the English -Episcopalians three; to German Lutherans two; to the Roman Catholics -four; and one respectively to the Swedish Lutherans, Moravians, -Baptists, Universal Baptists, Methodists, and Jews. On a Sunday every -citizen appears well dressed; the lower classes of the people in -particular are remarkably well clothed. This is a great day also for -little excursions into the country. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -The carriages made use of in Philadelphia consist of coaches, chariots, -chaises, coachees, and light waggons, the greater part of which are -built in Philadelphia. The equipages of a few individuals are extremely -ostentatious; nor does there appear in any that neatness and elegance -which might be expected amongst a set of people that are desirous of -imitating the fashions of England, and that are continually getting -models over from that country. The coachee is a carriage peculiar, I -believe, to America; the body of it is rather longer than that of a -coach, but of the same shape. In the front it is left quite open down to -the bottom, and the driver sits on a bench under the roof of the -carriage. There are two seats in it for the passengers, who sit with -their faces towards the horses. The roof is supported by small props, -which are placed at the corners. On each side of the doors, above the -pannels, it is quite open, and to guard against bad weather there are -curtains, which are made to let down from the roof, and fasten to -buttons placed for the purpose on the outside. There is also a leathern -curtain to hang occasionally between the driver and passengers. - -The light waggons are on the same construction, and are calculated to -accommodate from four to twelve people. The only difference between a -small waggon and a coachee is, that the latter is better finished, has -varnished pannels, and doors at the side. The former has no doors, but -the passengers scramble in the best way they can, over the seat of the -driver. The waggons are used universally for stage carriages. - -[Illustration: - - AMERICAN STAGE WAGGON. - _Published Dec. 21. 1798, by J. Stockdale, Piccadilly._ -] - -The accommodations at the taverns, by which name they call all inns, &c. -are very indifferent in Philadelphia, as indeed they are, with a very -few exceptions, throughout the country. The mode of conducting them is -nearly the same every where. The traveller is shewn, on arrival, into a -room which is common to every person in the house, and which is -generally the one set apart for breakfast, dinner, and supper. All the -strangers that happen to be in the house sit down to these meals -promiscuously, and, excepting in the large towns, the family of the -house also forms a part of the company. It is seldom that a private -parlour or drawing room can be procured at any of the taverns, even in -the towns; and it is always with reluctance that breakfast or dinner is -served up separately to any individual. If a single bed room can be -procured, more ought not to be looked for; but it is not always that -even this is to be had, and those who travel through the country must -often submit to be crammed into rooms where there is scarcely sufficient -space to walk between the beds.[5] Strangers who remain for any length -of time in the large towns most usually go to private boarding houses, -of which great numbers are to be met with. It is always a difficult -matter to procure furnished lodgings without paying for board. - -Footnote 5: - - Having stopped one night at Elkton, on my journey to Baltimore in the - public carriage, my first enquiries from the landlord, on alighting, - as there were many passengers in the stage, were to know what - accommodation his house afforded. He seemed much surprized that any - enquiries should be made on such a subject, and with much consequence - told me, I need not give myself any trouble about the extent of his - accommodations, as he had no less than _eleven_ beds in _one_ of his - rooms. - -[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.] - -At all the taverns, both in town and country, but particularly in the -latter, the attendance is very bad; indeed, excepting in the southern -states, where there are such great numbers of negroes, it is a matter of -the utmost difficulty to procure domestic servants of any description. -The generality of servants that are met with in Philadelphia are -emigrant Europeans; they, however, for the most part, only remain in -service until they can save a little money, when they constantly quit -their masters, being led to do so by that desire for independence which -is so natural to the mind of man, and which every person in America may -enjoy that will be industrious. The few that remain steady to those who -have hired them are retained at most exorbitant wages. As for the -Americans, none but those of the most indifferent characters ever enter -into service, which they consider as suitable only to negroes; the -negroes again, in Pennsylvania and in the other states where steps have -been taken for the gradual abolition of slavery, are taught by the -Quakers to look upon themselves in every respect as equal to their white -brethren, and they endeavour to imitate them by being saucy. It is the -same both with males and females. I must here observe, that amongst the -generality of the lower sort of people in the United States, and -particularly amongst those of Philadelphia, there is a want of good -manners which excites the surprize of almost every foreigner; I wish -also that it may not be thought that this remark has been made, merely -because the same deference and the same respectful attention, which we -see so commonly paid by the lower orders of people in Great Britain and -Ireland to those who are in a situation somewhat superior to themselves, -is not also paid in America to persons in the same station; it is the -want of common civility I complain of, which it is always desirable to -behold between man and man, let their situations in life be what they -may, and which is not contrary to the dictates of nature, or to the -spirit of genuine liberty, as it is observable in the behaviour of the -wild Indians that wander through the forests of this vast continent, the -most free and independent of all human beings. In the United States, -however, the lower classes of people will return rude and impertinent -answers to questions couched in the most civil terms, and will insult a -person that bears the appearance of a gentleman, on purpose to shew how -much they consider themselves upon an equality with him. Civility cannot -be purchased from them on any terms; they seem to think that it is -incompatible with freedom, and that there is no other way of convincing -a stranger that he is really in a land of liberty, but by being surly -and ill mannered in his presence. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + III. - -_Journey to Baltimore.—Description of the Country about - Philadelphia.—Floating Bridges over the Schuylkill, how - constructed.—Mills in Brandy-wine Creek.—Improvement in - the Machinery of Flour Mills in America.—Town of Wilmington.—Log - Houses.—Bad Roads.—Fine Prospects.—How relished by - Americans.—Taverns.—Susquehannah River.—Town of Baltimore.—Plan of the - Town.—Harbour.—Public and private Buildings.—Inhabitants.—Country - between Baltimore and Washington.—Execrable Roads._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Washington, November. - -[Sidenote: JOURNEY TO BALTIMORE.] - - -ON the 16th of November I left Philadelphia for Baltimore. The only mode -of conveyance which offers for a traveller, who is not provided with his -own horses or carriage, is the public stage waggon; it is possible, -indeed, to procure a private carriage at Philadelphia to go on to -Baltimore, for which a great price is always demanded; but there is no -such thing as hiring a carriage or horses from stage to stage. The -country about Philadelphia is well cultivated, and it abounds with neat -country houses; but it has a bare appearance, being almost totally -stripped of the trees, which have been cut down without mercy for -firing, and to make way for the plough; neither are there any hedges, an -idea prevailing that they impoverish the land wherever they are planted. -The fences are all of the common post and rail, or of the angular kind. -These last are made of rails about eight or nine feet long, roughly -split out of trees, and placed horizontally above one another, as the -bars of a gate; but each tier of rails, or gate as it were, instead of -being on a straight line with the one next to it, is put in a different -direction, so as to form an angle sufficient to permit the ends of the -rails of one tier to rest steadily on those of the next. As these -fences, from their serpentine course, occupy at least six times as much -ground as a common post and rail fence, and require also a great deal -more wood, they are mostly laid aside whenever land and timber become -objects of importance, as they soon do in the neighbourhood of large -towns. - -[Sidenote: FLOATING BRIDGES.] - -The road to Baltimore is over the lowest of three floating bridges, -which have been thrown across the river Schuylkill, in the neighbourhood -of Philadelphia. The view on passing this river, which is about two -hundred and fifty yards wide, is beautiful. The banks on each side are -high, and for many miles above afford the most delightful situations for -villas. A very elegant one, laid out in the English taste, is seen on -passing the river just above the bridge. Adjoining to it are public -gardens, and a house of entertainment, with several good rooms, to which -the citizens of Philadelphia resort in great numbers during the summer -season. - -The floating bridges are formed of large trees, which are placed in the -water transversely, and chained together; beams are then laid lengthways -upon these, and the whole boarded over, to render the way convenient for -passengers. On each side there is a railing. When very heavy carriages -go across these bridges, they sink a few inches below the surface of the -water; but the passage is by no means dangerous. They are kept in an -even direction across the river, by means of chains and anchors in -different parts, and are also strongly secured on both shores. Over that -part of the river where the channel lies, they are so contrived that a -piece can be removed to allow vessels to pass through. These bridges are -frequently damaged, and sometimes entirely carried away, during floods, -at the breaking up of winter, especially if there happens to be much ice -floating in the river. To guard against this, when danger is apprehended -and the flood does not come on too rapidly, they unfasten all the chains -by which the bridge is confined in its proper place, and then let the -whole float down with the stream to a convenient part of the shore, -where it can be hauled up and secured. - -The country, after passing the Schuylkill, is pleasingly diversified -with rising grounds and woods, and appears to be in a good state of -cultivation. The first town of any note which you come to is Chester, -fifteen miles from Philadelphia; this town contains about sixty -dwellings, and is remarkable for being the place where the first -colonian assembly sat. From the neighbourhood of this town there is a -very grand view of the river Delaware. - -[Sidenote: FLOUR MILLS.] - -About half a mile before you come to Wilmington is Brandy-wine River, -remarkable for its mills, no less than thirteen being built almost close -to each other upon it. The water, just above the bridge which is thrown -over it, comes tumbling down with great violence over a bed of rocks; -and seats, at a very trifling expense, could be made for three times the -number of mills already built. Vessels carrying 1,000 bushels of wheat -can come close up to them, and by means of machinery their cargoes are -received from, or delivered to them in a very expeditious manner. Among -the mills, some are for flour, some for sawing of wood, and others for -stone. The improvements which have been made in the machinery of the -flour mills in America are very great. The chief of these consist in a -new application of the screw, and the introduction of what are called -elevators, the idea of which was evidently borrowed from the chain pump. -The screw is made by sticking small thin pieces of board, about three -inches long and two wide, into a cylinder, so as to form the spiral -line. This screw is placed in a horizontal position, and by turning on -its axis it forces wheat or flour from one end of a trough to the other. -For instance, in the trough which receives the meal immediately coming -from the stones, a screw of this kind is placed, by which the meal is -forced on, to the distance of six or eight feet perhaps, into a -reservoir; from thence, without any manual labour, it is conveyed to the -very top of the mill by the elevators, which consist of a number of -small buckets of the size of tea-cups, attached to a long band that goes -round a wheel at the top, and another at the bottom of the mill. As the -band revolves round the wheels, these buckets dip into the reservoir of -wheat or flour below, and take their loads up to the top, where they -empty themselves as they turn round the upper wheel. The elevators are -inclosed in square wooden tubes, to prevent them from catching in any -thing, and also to prevent dust. By means of these two simple -contrivances no manual labour is required from the moment the wheat is -taken to the mill till it is converted into flour, and ready to be -packed, during the various processes of screening, grinding, sifting, -&c. - -[Sidenote: MARYLAND.] - -Wilmington is the capital of the state of Delaware, and contains about -six hundred houses, which are chiefly of brick. The streets are laid out -on a plan somewhat similar to that of Philadelphia. There is nothing -very interesting in this town, and the country round about it is flat -and insipid. Elkton, twenty-one miles distant from Wilmington, and the -first town in Maryland, contains about ninety indifferent houses, which -are built without any regularity; it is a dirty disagreeable place. In -this neighbourhood I first took notice of log-houses; those which I had -hitherto seen having been built either of brick or stone, or else -constructed with wooden frames, sheathed on the outside with boards. The -log-houses are cheaper than any others in a country where there is -abundance of wood, and generally are the first that are erected on a new -settlement in America. The sides consist of trees just squared, and -placed horizontally one upon the other; the ends of the logs of one side -resting alternately on the ends of those of the adjoining sides, in -notches; the interstices between the logs are stopped with clay; and the -roof is covered with boards or with shingles, which are small pieces of -wood in the shape of slates or tiles, and which are used for that -purpose, with a few exceptions, throughout America. These habitations -are not very sightly, but when well built they are warm and comfortable, -and last for a long time. - -A considerable quantity of wheat and Indian corn is raised in this -neighbourhood, to the production of which the soil is favourable; but -the best cultivated parts of the country are not seen from the road, -which passes chiefly over barren and hilly tracts, called “ridges.” The -reason for carrying the road over these is, because it is found to last -longer than if carried over the flat part of the country, where the soil -is deep, a circumstance which the people of Maryland always take into -consideration; for after a road is once cut, they never take pains to -keep it in good repair. The roads in this state are worse than in any -one in the union; indeed so very bad are they, that on going from Elkton -to the Susquehannah ferry, the driver frequently had to call to the -passengers in the stage, to lean out of the carriage first at one side, -then at the other, to prevent it from oversetting in the deep ruts with -which the road abounds: “Now, gentlemen, to the right;” upon which the -passengers all stretched their bodies half way out of the carriage to -balance it on that side: “Now, gentlemen, to the left,” and so on. This -was found absolutely necessary at least a dozen times in half the number -of miles. Whenever they attempt to mend these roads, it is always by -filling the ruts with saplings or bushes, and covering them over with -earth. This, however, is done only when there are fields on each side of -the road. If the road runs contiguous to a wood, then, instead of -mending it where it is bad, they open a new passage through the trees, -which they call making a road. It is very common in Maryland to see six -or seven different roads branching out from one, which all lead to the -same place. A stranger, before he is acquainted with this circumstance, -is frequently puzzled to know which he ought to take. The dexterity with -which the drivers of the stages guide their horses along these new -roads, which are full of stumps of trees, is astonishing, yet to -appearance they are the most awkward drivers possible; it is more by the -different noises which they make, than by their reins, that they manage -their horses. - -[Sidenote: ROADS.] - -Charleston stands at a few miles distance from Elkton; there are about -twenty houses only in it, which are inhabited chiefly by people who -carry on a herring fishery. Beyond it the country is much diversified -with hill and dale, and the soil being but of an indifferent quality, -the lands are so little cleared, that in many parts the road winds -through uninterrupted woods for four or five miles together. The scenery -in this neighbourhood is extremely interesting. From the top of the -hills you meet with numberless bold and extensive prospects of the -Chesapeak Bay and of the river Susquehannah; and scarcely do you cross a -valley without beholding in the depths of the wood the waters of some -little creek or rivulet rushing over ledges of rock in a beautiful -cascade. The generality of Americans stare with astonishment at a person -who can feel any delight at passing through such a country as this. To -them the sight of a wheat field or a cabbage garden would convey -pleasure far greater than that of the most romantic woodland views. They -have an unconquerable aversion to trees; and whenever a settlement is -made, they cut away all before them without mercy; not one is spared; -all share the same fate, and are involved in the general havoc. It -appears strange, that in a country where the rays of the sun act with -such prodigious power, some few trees near the habitations should not be -spared, whose foliage might afford a cooling shade during the parching -heats of summer; and I have oftentimes expressed my astonishment that -none were ever left for that purpose. In answer I have generally been -told, that they could not be left standing near a house without danger. -The trees it seems in the American forests have but a very slender hold -in the ground, considering their immense height, so that when two or -three fully grown are deprived of shelter in consequence of the others -which stood around them being cut down, they are very apt to be levelled -by the first storm that chances to blow. This, however, would not be the -case with trees of a small growth, which might safely be spared, and -which would soon afford an agreeable shade if the Americans thought -proper to leave them standing: but the fact of the matter is, that from -the face of the country being entirely overspread with trees, the eyes -of the people become satiated with the sight of them. The ground cannot -be tilled, nor can the inhabitants support themselves, till they are -removed; they are looked upon as a nuisance, and the man that can cut -down the largest number, and have the fields about his house most clear -of them, is looked upon as the most industrious citizen, and the one -that is making the greatest improvements[6] in the country. - -Footnote 6: - - I have heard of Americans landing on barren parts of the north west - coast of Ireland, and evincing the greatest surprise and pleasure at - the beauty and improved state of the country, “so clear of trees!!” - -[Sidenote: TAVERNS.] - -Every ten or twelve miles upon this road there are taverns, which are -all built of wood, and much in the same stile, with a porch in front the -entire length of the house. Few of these taverns have any signs, and -they are only to be distinguished from the other houses by the number of -handbills pasted up on the walls near the door. They take their name, -not from the sign, but from the person who keeps them, as Jones’s, -Brown’s, &c. &c. All of them are kept nearly in the same manner. At each -house there are regular hours for breakfast, dinner, and supper, and if -a traveller arrives somewhat before the time appointed for any one of -these, it is in vain to call for a separate meal for himself; he must -wait patiently till the appointed hour, and then sit down with the other -guests that may happen to be in the house. Breakfasts are generally -plentifully served; there is tea, coffee, and different sorts of bread, -cold salt meat, and, very commonly besides, beef steaks, fried fish, &c. -&c.[7] The charge made for breakfast is nearly the same as that for -dinner. - -Footnote 7: - - The landlady always presides at the head of the table to make the tea, - or a female servant attends for that purpose at breakfast and in the - evening; and at many taverns in the country the whole of the family - sit down to dinner with the guests. - -This part of Maryland abounds with iron ore, which is of a quality -particularly well adapted for casting. The ore is found in banks so near -the surface of the earth that there is never occasion to sink a shaft to -get at it. Near Charleston there is a small foundery for cannon. The -cannon are bored by water. As I passed by, they were making twenty-four -pounders, two of which I was informed they finished every week. The iron -is extremely tough; very few of the guns burst on being proved. - -The Susquehannah river is crossed, on the way to Baltimore, at a ferry -five miles above its entrance into the Chesapeak. The river is here -about a mile and quarter wide, and deep enough for any vessels; the -banks are high and thickly wooded, and the scenery is grand and -picturesque. A small town called Havre de Grace, which contains about -forty houses, stands on this river at the ferry. A petition was -presented to congress the last year to have it made a port of entry; but -at present there is very little trade carried on there. A few ships are -annually built in the neighbourhood. From hence to Baltimore the country -is extremely poor; the soil is of a yellow gravel mixed with clay, and -the roads execrable. - -[Sidenote: BALTIMORE.] - -Baltimore is supposed to contain about sixteen thousand inhabitants, and -though not the capital of the state, is the largest town in Maryland, -and the most considerable place of trade in North America, after -Philadelphia and New York. The plan of the town is somewhat similar to -that of Philadelphia, most of the streets crossing each other at right -angles. The main street, which runs east and west nearly, is about -eighty feet wide; the others are from forty to sixty feet. The streets -are not all paved, so that when it rains heavily they are rendered -almost impassable, the soil being a stiff yellow clay, which retains the -water a long time. On the south side of the town is a harbour commonly -called the Bason, which affords about nine feet water, and is large -enough to contain two thousand sail of merchant vessels. There are -wharfs and stores along it, the whole length of the town; but as a -particular wind is necessary to enable ships to get out of this bason, -by far the greater number of those which enter the port of Baltimore -stop at a harbour which is formed by a neck of land near the mouth of -the bason, called Fell’s Point. Here also wharfs have been built, -alongside which vessels of six hundred tons burthen can lie with perfect -safety. Numbers of persons have been induced to settle on this Point, in -order to be contiguous to the shipping. Upwards of seven hundred houses -have already been built there, and regular streets laid out, with a -large market place. These houses, generally speaking, are considered as -a part of Baltimore, but to all appearance they form a separate town, -being upwards of a mile distant from the other part of the town. In the -neighbourhood, Fell’s Point and Baltimore are spoken of as distinct and -separate places. Fell’s Point is chiefly the residence of seafaring -people, and of the younger partners of mercantile houses, who are -stationed there to attend to the shipping. - -[Sidenote: BALTIMORE.] - -The greater number of private houses in Baltimore are of brick, but -many, particularly in the skirts of the town, are of wood. In some of -the new streets a few appear to be well built, but in general the houses -are small, heavy, and inconvenient. As for the public buildings, there -are none worthy of being mentioned. The churches and places for public -worship are ten in number; one respectively for Episcopalians, -Presbyterians, German Lutherans, German Calvinists, Reformed Germans, -Nicolites or New Quakers, Baptists, Roman Catholics, and two for -Methodists. The Presbyterian church, which has lately been erected, is -the best building among them, and indeed the handsomest building in -town. It is of brick, with a portico in front supported by six pillars -of stone. - -They have no less than three incorporated banks in this town, and the -number of notes issued from them is so great, as almost to preclude the -circulation of specie. Some of the notes are for as small a sum as a -single dollar, and being much more portable than silver, are generally -preferred. As for gold, it is very scarce; I hardly ever met with it -during two months that I remained in Maryland. - -Amongst the inhabitants of Baltimore are to be found English, Irish, -Scotch, and French. The Irish appear to be most numerous; and many of -the principal merchants in town are in the number. Since the war, a -great many French have arrived both from France and from the West India -Islands. With a few exceptions the inhabitants are all engaged in trade, -which is closely attended to. They are mostly plain people, sociable -however amongst themselves, and very friendly and hospitable towards -strangers. Cards and dancing are favourite amusements, both in private -and at public assemblies, which are held every fortnight. There are two -theatres here, in which there are performances occasionally. The oldest -of them, which stands in the road to Fell’s Point, is most wretched, and -appears little better than a heap of loose boards; for a long time it -lay quite neglected, but has lately been fitted up for a company of -French actors, the only one I ever heard of in the country. Baltimore, -like Philadelphia, has differed from the ravages of the yellow fever. -During the autumn it is generally unhealthy, and those who can afford it -retire to country seats in the neighbourhood, of which some are most -delightfully situated. - -[Sidenote: ROAD, AND BRIDGES.] - -From Baltimore to Washington, which is forty miles distant, the country -wears but a poor appearance. The soil in some parts consists of a yellow -clay mixed with gravel; in other parts it is very sandy. In the -neighbourhood of the creeks and between the hills are patches of rich -black earth, called Bottoms, the trees upon which grow to a large size; -but where there is gravel they are very small. The roads passing over -these bottoms are worse than any I ever met with elsewhere. In driving -over one of them, near the head waters of a branch of Patuxent river, a -few days after a heavy fall of rain, the wheels of a sulky which I was -in sunk up to the very boxes. For a moment I despaired of being able to -get out without assistance, when my horse, which was very powerful, -finding himself impeded, threw himself upon his haunches, and -disengaging his fore-feet, made a vigorous plunge forwards, which -luckily disengaged both himself and the sulky, and freed me from my -embarrassment. I was afterwards informed that General Washington, as he -was going to meet congress a short time before, was stopped in the very -same place, his carriage sinking so deep in the mud that it was found -necessary to send to a neighbouring house for ropes and poles to -extricate it. Over some of the bottoms, which were absolutely impassable -in their natural slate, causeways have been thrown, which are made with -large trees laid side by side across the road. For a time these -causeways afford a commodious passage; but they do not last long, as -many of the trees sink into the soft soil, and others, exposed to the -continual attrition of waggon wheels in a particular part, breaking -asunder. In this state, full of unseen obstacles, it is absolutely a -matter of danger for a person unacquainted with the road to attempt to -drive a carriage along it. The bridges over the creeks, covered with -loose boards, are as bad as the causeways, and totter as a carriage -passes over. That the legislature of Maryland can be so inactive, and -not take some steps to repair this, which is one of the principal roads -in the state, the great road from north to south, and the high road to -the City of Washington, is most wonderful! - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + IV. - -_Foundation of the City of Washington.—Not readily agreed to by - different States.—Choice of the Ground left to General - Washington.—Circumstances to be considered in chusing the Ground.—The - Spot fixed upon central to all the States.—Also remarkably - advantageously situated for Trade.—Nature of the Back Country - Trade.—Summary View of the principal Trading Towns in the United - States.—Their Prosperity shewn to depend on the Back Country - Trade.—Description of the Patowmac River.—Its Connection with other - Rivers pointed out.—Prodigious Extent of the Water Communication from - Washington City in all Directions.—Country likely to trade immediately - with Washington.—Situation of Washington.—Plan of the City.—Public - Buildings.—Some begun, others projected.—Capital President’s - House.—Hotel.—Stone and other building Materials found in the - Neighbourhood.—Private Houses and Inhabitants at present in the - City.—Different Opinions respecting the future Greatness of the - City.—Impediments thrown in the Way of its Improvement.—What has given - rise to this._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Washington, November. - -THE City of Washington, or the Federal City, as it is indiscriminately -called, was laid out in the year 1792, and is expressly designed for -being the metropolis of the United States, and the seat of the federal -government. In the year 1800 the congress is to meet there for the first -time. As the foundation of this city has attracted the attention of so -many people in Europe, and as such very different opinions are -entertained about it, I shall, in the following pages, give you a brief -account of its rise and progress. - -[Sidenote: CITY OF WASHINGTON.] - -Shortly after the close of the American war, considerable numbers of the -Pennsylvanian line, or of the militia, with arms in their hands, -surrounded the hall in which the congress was assembled at Philadelphia, -and with vehement menaces insisted upon immediate appropriations of -money being made to discharge the large arrears due to them for their -past services. The members, alarmed at such an outrage, resolved to quit -a state in which they met with insult instead of protection, and quickly -adjourned to New York, where the session was terminated. A short time -afterwards, the propriety was strongly urged in congress, of fixing upon -some place for the meeting of the legislature, and for the seat of the -general government, which should be subject to the laws and regulations -of the congress alone, in order that the members, in future, might not -have to depend for their personal safety, and for their freedom of -deliberation, upon the good or bad police of any individual state. This -idea of making the place, which should be chosen for the meeting of the -legislature, independent of the particular state to which it might -belong, was further corroborated by the following argument: That as the -several states in the union were in some measure rivals to each other, -although connected together by certain ties, if any one of them, was -fixed upon for the seat of the general government in preference, and -thus raised to a state of pre-eminence, it might perhaps be the occasion -of great jealousy amongst the others. Every person was convinced of the -expediency of preserving the union of the states entire; it was -apparent, therefore, that the greatest precautions ought to be taken to -remove every source of jealousy from amongst them, which might tend, -though remotely, to produce a separation. In fine, it was absolutely -necessary that the seat of government should be made permanent, as the -removal of the public offices and the archives from place to place could -not but be attended with many and very great inconveniences. - -However, notwithstanding this measure appeared to be beneficial to the -interest of the union at large, it was not until after the revolution, -by which the present federal constitution was established, that it was -acceded to on the part of all the states. Pennsylvania in particular, -conscious of her being a principal and central state, and therefore -likely to be made the seat of government if this new project was not -carried into execution, was foremost in the opposition. At last she -complied; but it was only on condition that the congress should meet at -Philadelphia until the new city was ready for its reception, flattering -herself that there would be so many objections afterwards to the removal -of the seat of government, and so many difficulties in putting the -project into execution, that it would finally be relinquished. To the -discriminating judgment of General Washington, then president, it was -left to determine upon the spot best calculated for the federal city. -After mature deliberation he fixed upon a situation on the banks of the -Patowmac River, a situation which seems to be marked out by nature, not -only for a large city, but expressly for the seat of the metropolis of -the United States. - -In the choice of the spot there were two principal considerations: -First, that it should be as central as possible in respect to every -state in the union; secondly, that it should be advantageously situated -for commerce, without which it could not be expected that the city would -ever be distinguished for size or for splendour; and it was to be -supposed, that the people of the United States would be desirous of -having the metropolis of the country as magnificent as it possibly could -be. These two essential points are most happily combined in the spot -which has been chosen. - -[Sidenote: VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS.] - -The northern and southern extremities of the United States are in 46° -and 31° north latitude. The latitude of the new city is 38° 53´ north; -so that it is within twenty-three minutes of being exactly between the -two extremities. In no part of North America either is there a port -situated so far up the country to the westward, excepting what belongs -to Great Britain on the river St. Lawrence, its distance from the ocean -being no less than two hundred and eighty miles. A more central -situation could certainly have been fixed upon, by going further to the -westward; but had this been done, it must have been an inland one, which -would have been very unfavourable for trade. The size of all towns in -America has hitherto been proportionate to their trade, and particularly -to that carried on with the back settlements. This trade consists in -supplying the people of the western parts of the United States, or the -back settlements, with certain articles of foreign manufacture, which -they do not find any interest in fabricating for themselves at present; -nor is it to be supposed that they will, for many years to come, while -land remains cheap, and these articles can be imported and sent to them -on reasonable terms. The articles chiefly in demand consist of hardware, -woollen cloths, figured cottons, hosiery, haberdashery, earthen ware, -&c. &c. from England; coffee, rum, sugar[8], from the West Indies; tea, -coarse muslins, and calicoes, from the East Indies. In return for these -articles the people of the back settlements send down for exportation -the various kinds of produce which the country affords: wheat and flour, -furs, skins, rice, indigo, tobacco, pitch, tar, &c. &c. It is very -evident, therefore, that the best situation for a trading town must be -upon a long navigable river, so that the town may be open to the sea, -and thus enabled to carry on a foreign trade, and at the same time be -enabled, by means of an extensive water communication in an opposite -direction, to trade with the distant parts of the country. None of the -inland towns have as yet increased to a great size. Lancaster, which is -the largest in all America, contains only nine hundred houses, and it is -nearly double the size of any other inland one. Neither do the sea-port -towns flourish, which are not well situated for carrying on an inland -trade at the same time. The truth of this position must appear obvious -on taking survey of the principal towns in the United States. - -Footnote 8: - - Sugar is not sent very far back into the country, as it is procured at - much less expence from the maple-tree. - -[Sidenote: VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS.] - -To begin with Boston, the largest town north of New York, and one of the -oldest in the United States. Though it has a most excellent harbour, and -has always been inhabited by an enterprizing industrious set of people, -yet it is now inferior, both in size and commerce, to Baltimore, which -was little more than the residence of a few fishermen thirty years ago; -and this, because there is no river in the neighbourhood navigable for -more than seven miles, and the western parts of the state of -Massachusets, of which it is the capital, can be supplied with -commodities carried up the North River on much better terms than if the -same commodities were sent by land carriage from Boston. Neither does -Boston increase by any means in the same proportion as the other towns, -which have an extensive trade with the people of the back settlements. -For the same cause we do not find that any of the sea-port or other -towns in Rhode Island and Connecticut are increasing very fast; on the -contrary, Newport, the capital of the state of Rhode Island, and which -has a harbour that is boasted of as being one of the best throughout the -United States, is now falling to decay. Newport contains about one -thousand houses; none of the other towns between Boston and New York -contain more than five hundred. - -[Sidenote: VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS.] - -We now come to New York, which enjoys the double advantages of an -excellent harbour and a large navigable river, which opens a -communication with the interior parts of the country; and here we find a -flourishing city, containing forty thousand[9] inhabitants, and -increasing beyond every calculation. The North or Hudson River, at the -mouth of which New York stands, is navigable from thence for one hundred -and thirty miles in large vessels, and in sloops of eighty tons burthen -as far as Albany; smaller ones go still higher. About nine miles above -Albany, the Mohawk River falls into the Hudson, by means of which, Wood -Creek, Lake Oneida, and Oswego River, a communication is opened with -Lake Ontario. In this route there are several portages, but it is a -route which is much frequented, and numbers of boats are kept employed -upon it in carrying goods whenever the season is not too dry. In long -droughts the waters fall so much that oftentimes there is not sufficient -to float an empty boat. All these obstructions however may, and will one -day or other, be remedied by the hand of art. Oswego river, before it -falls into Lake Ontario, communicates with the Seneka river, which -affords in succession an entrance into the lakes Cayuga, Seneka, and -Canadaqua. Lake Seneka, the largest, is about forty miles in length; -upon it there is a schooner-rigged vessel of seventy tons burthen -constantly employed. The shores of these lakes are more thickly settled -than the other part of the adjacent country, but the population of the -whole track lying between the rivers Genesee and Hudson, which are about -two hundred and fifty miles apart, is rapidly increasing. All this -country west of the Hudson River, together with that to the east, -comprehending the back parts of the states of Massachusetts and -Connecticut, and also the entire of the state of Vermont, are supplied -with European manufactures and West Indian produce, &c. &c. by way of -New York; not directly from that city, but from Albany, Hudson, and -other towns on the North River, which trade with New York, and which are -intermediate places for the deposit of goods passing to, and coming from -the back country. Albany, indeed, is now beginning herself to import -goods from the West Indies; but still the bulk of her trade is with New -York. Nothing can serve more to shew the advantages which accrue to any -town from an intercourse with the back country, than the sudden progress -of these secondary places of trade upon the North River. At Albany, the -number of houses is increasing as fast as at New York; at present there -are upwards of eleven hundred; and in Hudson city which was only laid -out in the year 1783, there are now more than three hundred and twenty -dwellings. This city is on the east side of the North River, one hundred -and thirty miles above its mouth. By means also of the North River and -Lake Champlain a trade is carried on with Montreal in Canada. - -Footnote 9: - - Six inhabitants may be reckoned for every house in the United States. - -But to go on with the survey of the towns to the southward. In New -Jersey, we find Amboy, situated at the head of Raritan Bay, a bay not -inferior to any throughout the United States. The greatest -encouragements also have been held out by the state legislature to -merchants who would settle there; but the town, notwithstanding, remains -nearly in the state it was in at the time of the revolution: sixty -houses are all that it contains. New Brunswick, which is built on -Raritan River, about fifteen miles above its entrance into the bay, -carries on a small inland trade with the adjacent country; but the -principal part of New Jersey is naturally supplied with foreign -manufactures by New York on the one side, and by Philadelphia on the -other, the towns most happily situated for the purpose. There are about -two hundred houses in New Brunswick, and about the same number in -Trenton on Delaware, the capital of the state. - -[Sidenote: VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS.] - -Philadelphia, the largest town in the union, has evidently been raised -to that state of pre-eminence by her extensive inland commerce. On one -side is the river Delaware, which is navigable in sloops for thirty-five -miles above the town, and in boats carrying eight or nine tons one -hundred miles further. On the other side is the Schuylkill, navigable, -excepting at the falls, for ninety miles. But the country bordering upon -these rivers is but a trifling part of that which Philadelphia trades -with. Goods are forwarded to Harrisburgh, a town situated on the -Susquehannah, and from thence sent up that river, and dispersed -throughout the adjoining country. The eastern branch of Susquehannah is -navigable for two hundred and fifty miles above Harrisburgh. This place, -which in 1786 scarcely deserved the name of a village, now contains -upwards of three hundred houses. By land carriage Philadelphia also -trades with the western parts of Pennsylvania, as far as Pittsburg -itself, which is on the Ohio, with the back of Virginia, and, strange to -tell, with Kentucky, seven hundred miles distant. - -Philadelphia, however, does not enjoy the exclusive trade to Virginia -and Kentucky; Baltimore, which lies more to the south, comes in for a -considerable share, if not for the greatest part of it, and to that is -indebted for her sudden rise, and her great superiority over Annapolis, -the capital of Maryland. Annapolis, although it has a good harbour, and -was made a port of entry as long ago as the year 1694, has scarcely any -trade now. Baltimore, situated more in the heart of the country, has -gradually drawn it all away from her. From Baltimore nearly the entire -of Maryland is furnished with European manufactures. The very -flourishing state of this place has already been mentioned. - -[Sidenote: VIEW OF TRADING TOWNS.] - -As the Patowmac river, and the towns upon it, are to come more -particularly under notice afterwards, we may from hence pass on to the -other towns in Virginia. With regard to Virginia, however, it is to be -observed, that the impolitic laws[10] which have been enacted in that -state have thrown a great damp upon trade; the Virginians too have -always been more disposed towards agriculture than trade, so that the -towns in that state, some of which are most advantageously situated, -have never increased as they would have done had the county been -inhabited by a different kind of people, and had different laws -consequently existed; still however we shall find that the most -flourishing towns in the state are those which are open to the sea, and -situated most conveniently at the same time for trading with the people -of the back country. On Rappahannock River, for instance, Tappahannock -or Hobb’s Hole was laid out at the same time that Philadelphia was. -Fredericksburgh was built many years afterwards on the same river, but -thirty miles higher up, and at the head of that part of it which was -navigable for sea vessels; the consequence of this has been, that -Fredericksburgh, from being situated more in the heart of the country, -is now four times as large a town as Hobb’s Hole. - -Footnote 10: - - For some account of them see Letter XIII. - -York River, from running so closely to James River on the one side, and -the Rappahannock on the other, does not afford a good situation for a -large town. The largest town upon it, which is York, only contains -seventy houses. - -Williamsburgh was formerly the capital of the state, and contains about -four hundred houses; but instead of increasing, this town is going to -ruin, and numbers of the houses at present are uninhabited, which is -evidently on account of its inland situation. There is no navigable -stream nearer to it than one mile and a half, and this is only a small -creek, which runs into James River. Richmond, on the contrary, which is -the present capital of the state, has increased very fast, because it -stands on a large navigable river; yet Richmond is no more than an -intermediate place for the deposit of goods passing to and from the back -country, vessels drawing more than seven feet water being unable to come -up to the town. - -[Sidenote: VIEW OF TRADING TOWNS.] - -The principal place of trade in Virginia is Norfolk. This town has a -good harbour, and is enabled to trade with the upper parts of the -country, by means of James River, near the mouth of which it stands. By -land also a brisk trade is carried on with the back parts of North -Carolina, for in that state there are no towns of any importance. The -entrance from the sea into the rivers in that state are all impeded by -shoals and sand banks, none of which afford more than eleven feet water, -and the passage over some of them is very dangerous from the sand -shifting. Wilmington, which is the greatest place of trade in it, -contains only two hundred and fifty houses. In order to carry on their -trade to North Carolina to more advantage, a canal is now cutting across -the Dismal Swamp, from Norfolk into Albemarle Sound, by means of the -rivers that empty into which, a water communication will be opened to -the remote parts of that state. Added to this, Norfolk, from its -contiguity to the Dismal Swamp, is enabled to supply the West Indian -market with lumber on better terms than any other town in the United -States. It is in consequence increasing with wonderful rapidity, -notwithstanding the disadvantages it labours under from the laws, which -are so inimical to commerce. At present it contains upwards of five -hundred houses, which have all been built within the last twenty years, -for in the year 1776 the town was totally destroyed by orders of Lord -Dunmore, then regal governor of Virginia. - -Most of the rivers in South Carolina are obstructed at their mouths, -much in the same manner as those in North Carolina; at Charleston, -however, there is a safe and commodious harbour. From having such an -advantage, this town commands nearly the entire trade of the state in -which it is situated, as well as a considerable portion of that of North -Carolina. The consequence is, that Charleston ranks as the fourth -commercial town in the union. There are two rivers which disembogue on -each side of the town, Cooper and Ashley; these are navigable, but not -for a very great distance; however, from Cooper River a canal is to be -cut to the Santee, a large navigable river which runs a considerable way -up the country. Charleston has unfortunately been almost totally -destroyed by fire of late, but it is rebuilding very fast, and will most -probably in a few years be larger than ever. - -The view that has been taken so far is sufficient to demonstrate, that -the prosperity of the towns in the United States is dependant upon their -trade, and principally upon that which is carried on with the interior -parts of the country; and also, that those towns which are most -conveniently situated for the purpose of carrying on this inland trade, -are those which enjoy the greatest share of it. It is now time to -examine more particularly how far the situation of the federal city is -favourable, or otherwise, for commerce: to do so, it will be necessary, -in the first place, to trace the course of the Patowmac River, on which -it stands, and also that of the rivers with which it is connected. - -[Sidenote: PATOWMAC RIVER.] - -The Patowmac takes its rise on the north-west side of Alleghany -Mountains, and after running in a meandering, direction for upwards of -four hundred miles, falls into the Chesapeak Bay. At its confluence with -the bay it is seven miles and a half wide; about thirty miles higher, at -Nominy Bay, four and a half; at Aquia, three; at Hallowing Point, one -and a half; and at Alexandria, and from thence to the federal city, it -is one mile and quarter wide. The depth of water at its mouth is seven -fathoms; at St. George’s Island, five; at Alexandria, four; and from -thence to Washington, seven miles distant, three fathoms. The navigation -of the Patowmac, from the Chesapeak Bay to the city, one hundred and -forty miles distant, is remarkable safe, and so plain that any navigator -of common abilities, that has once sailed up the river, might venture to -take up a vessel drawing twelve feet water without a pilot. This could -not be said of any other river on the continent, from the St. Lawrence -to the Mississippi. In its course it receives several large streams, the -principal one of which falls in at the federal city. This river is -called the Eastern Branch of the Patowmac; but it scarcely deserves that -name, as it extends no more than thirty miles up the country. At its -mouth it is nearly as wide as the main branch of the river, and close to -the city the water is in many places thirty feet deep. Thousands of -vessels might lie here, and sheltered from all danger, arising either -from freshes, or from ice upon the breaking up of a severe winter. Thus -it appears that the federal city is possessed of one essential -qualification for making it a place of importance, namely, a good -harbour, from which there is a ready passage to the ocean; it will also -appear that it is well situated for trading with the interior parts of -the country. - -[Sidenote: WATER COMMUNICATIONS.] - -The water in the Patowmac continues nearly the same depth that it is -opposite to the city for one mile higher, where a large rock rises up in -the middle of the river, on each side of which there are sand-banks. It -is said that there is a deep channel between this rock and the shore, -but it is so intricate that it would be dangerous to attempt to take a -large vessel through it. The navigation, however, is safe to the little -falls for river craft, five miles further on; here a canal, which -extends two miles and a half, the length of these falls or rapids, has -been cut and perfected, which opens a free passage for boats as far as -the great falls, which are seven miles from the others. The descent of -the river at these is seventy-six feet in a mile and quarter; but it is -intended to make another canal here also; a part of it is already cut, -and every exertion is making to have the whole completed with -expedition[11]. From hence to Fort Cumberland, one hundred and -ninety-one miles above the federal city, there is a free navigation, and -boats are continually passing up and down. Beyond this, the passage in -the river is obstructed in numerous places; but there is a possibility -of opening it, and as soon as the company formed for the purpose have -sufficient funds, it will certainly be done. From the place up to which -it is asserted the passage of the Patowmac can be opened, the distance -across land to Cheat River is only thirty-seven miles. This last river -is not at present navigable for more than fifty miles above its mouth; -but it can be rendered so for boats, and so far up that there will only -be the short portage that I have mentioned between the navigable waters -of the two rivers. Things are only great or small by comparison, and a -portage of thirty-seven miles will be thought a very short one, when -found to be the only interruption to an inland navigation of upwards of -two thousand seven hundred miles, of which two thousand one hundred and -eighty-three are down stream. Cheat River is two hundred yards wide at -its mouth, and falls into the Monongahela, which runs on to Pittsburgh, -and there receives the Alleghany River, united they form the Ohio, which -after a course of one thousand one hundred and eighty-three miles, -during which it receives twenty-four other considerable rivers, some of -them six hundred yards wide at the mouth, and navigable for hundreds of -miles up the country, empties itself into the Mississippi. - -Footnote 11: - - For a further description of these Falls see Letter XXXI in Volume II. - -If we trace the water communication in an opposite direction, its -prodigious extent will be a still greater subject of astonishment. By -ascending the Alleghany River from Pittsburgh as far as French Creek, -and afterwards this latter stream, you come to Fort le Bœuf. This place -is within fifteen miles of Presqu’ Isle, a town situated upon Lake Erie, -which has a harbour capable of admitting vessels drawing nine feet -water. Or you may get upon the lake by ascending the Great Miami River, -which falls into the Ohio five hundred and fifty miles below Pittsburgh. -From the Great Miami there is a portage of nine miles only to Sandusky -River, which runs into Lake Erie. It is most probable, however, that -whatever intercourse there may be between the lakes and the federal -city, it will be kept up by means of the Alleghany River and French -Creek, rather than by the Miami, as in the last case it would be -necessary to combat against the stream of the Ohio for five hundred and -fifty miles, a very serious object of consideration. - -[Sidenote: RIVERS AND LAKES.] - -Lake Erie is three hundred miles in length, and ninety in breadth, and -there is a free communication between it, Lake Huron, and Lake Michigan. -Lake Huron is upwards of one thousand miles in circumference; Michigan -is somewhat smaller. Numbers of large rivers fall into these lakes, -after having watered immense tracts of country in various directions. -Some of these rivers too are connected in a most singular manner with -others, which run in a course totally different. For instance, after -passing over the Lakes Erie, St. Clair, and Michigan, to the head of -Puan’s Bay, you come to Fox River; from hence there is a portage of -three miles only to Ouisconsing River, which empties itself into the -Mississippi; and in the fall of the year, when the waters are high, and -the rivers overflow, it is oftentimes possible to pass from Fox River to -Ouisconsing River without ever getting out of a canoe. Thus, excepting a -portage of three miles only at the most, it is possible to go the whole -way by water from Presqu’ Isle, on Lake Erie, to New Orleans, at the -mouth of the Mississippi, a distance of near four thousand miles. It -would be an endless talk to trace the water communication in every -direction. By a portage of nine miles at the Falls of Niagara, the -navigation of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence is opened on one side, -and at the other that of Lake Superior, by a still shorter portage at -the Falls of St. Mary. This last lake, which is at least fifteen hundred -miles in circumference, is supplied by no less than forty rivers; and -beyond it the water communication extends for hundreds of miles farther -on, through the Lake of the Woods to Lake Winnipeg, which is still -larger than that of Superior. - -But supposing that the immense regions bordering upon these lakes and -rivers were already peopled, it is not to be concluded, that because -they are connected by water with the Patowmac, the federal city must -necessarily be the mart for the various productions of the whole -country. There are different sea-ports to which the inhabitants will -trade, according to the situation of each particular part of the -country. Quebec, on the river St. Lawrence, will be one; New York, -connected as has been shewn with Lake Ontario, another; and New Orleans -at the mouth of the Mississippi, which by the late treaty with Spain has -been made a free port, a third. The federal city will come in also for -its share, and what this share will be it now remains to ascertain. - -[Sidenote: NATIONAL BANK.] - -Situated upon the banks of the Patowmac, there are already two towns, -and both in the vicinity of the federal city. George Town, which -contains about two hundred and fifty houses; and Alexandria, with double -the number. The former of these stands about one mile above the city, -nearly opposite the large rock in the river, which has been spoken of; -the latter, seven miles below it. Considerable quantities of produce are -already sent down the Patowmac to each of these towns, and the people in -the country are beginning to look thither in return for a part of their -supply of foreign manufactures. It has been maintained, therefore, that -these two places, already in the practice of trading with the back -settlers, will draw the greater part of the country trade to themselves, -to the prejudice of the federal city. Both these towns have as great -advantages in point of situation as the city; the interests of the three -places therefore must unquestionably for a time clash together. It can -hardly be doubted, however, but that the federal city will in a few -years completely eclipse the other two. George Town can furnish the -people of the back country with foreign manufactures, at second hand -only, from Baltimore and Philadelphia; Alexandria imports directly from -Europe, but on a very contracted scale: more than two thirds of the -goods which are sent from thence to the back country are procured in the -same manner as at George Town. In neither place are there merchants with -large capitals; nor have the banks, of which there is one in each town, -sufficient funds to afford them much assistance; but merchants with -large capitals are preparing to move to the city. As soon also as the -seat of government is fixed there, the national bank, or at least a -large branch of it, will be established at the same time; this -circumstance alone will afford the people of the city a decided -advantage over those of Alexandria and George Town. Added to all, both -these towns are in the territory of Columbia, that is, in the district -of ten miles round the city which is to be subject to the laws and -regulations of congress alone; it may be, therefore, that encouragements -will be held out by congress to those who settle in the city, which will -be refused to such as go to any other part of the territory. Although -Alexandria and George Town, then, may rival the city while it is in its -infancy, yet it cannot be imagined that either of them will be able to -cope with it in the end. The probable trade of the city may for this -reason be spoken of as if neither of the other places existed. - -[Sidenote: PROBABLE TRADE OF WASHINGTON.] - -It may be taken for granted, in the first place, that the whole of the -country bordering upon the Patowmac river, and upon those rivers which -fall into it, will trade with the city of Washington. In tracing the -course of the Patowmac all these rivers were not enumerated; a better -idea of them may be had from an inspection of the map. Shenandoah, which -is the longest, is not navigable at present; but it has been surveyed, -and the company for improving the navigation of the Patowmac have stated -that it can be made so for one hundred miles. This would be coming very -near to Staunton, behind the Blue Mountains, and which is on the high -road from Kentucky, and from the new state of Tennessee, to the city of -Philadelphia. Frankfort, the capital of the former of these states, is -nearly eight hundred miles from Philadelphia; Knoxville, that of the -other, seven hundred and twenty-eight. Both these towns draw their -supplies of foreign manufactures from Philadelphia, and by landcarriage. -Supposing then that the navigation of the Shenandoah should be -perfected, there would be a saving of four hundred and thirty-six miles -of land carriage from going to Washington by the Shenandoah and Patowmac -instead of going to Philadelphia; such a saving, it might be imagined, -would draw the whole of this trade to Washington. Whether the two -western states, Kentucky and Tennessee, will trade to New Orleans or -not, at a future day, in preference to any of these places, will be -investigated presently. - -[Sidenote: WATER CARRIAGE.] - -By means of Cheat and Monongahela rivers it has been shewn, that an -opening may be obtained to Pittsburgh. This will be a route of about -four hundred and fifty miles from Washington, and in it there will be -one portage, from the Patowmac to Cheat River, of thirty-seven miles, -and perhaps two or three others; but these will be all very small. It -has been ascertained beyond doubt, that the Pittsburgh merchant can have -his goods conveyed from New York, by means of the Hudson and Mohawk -rivers, to Oswego, and from thence by the lakes Ontario and Erie, and -the Alleghany River, to Pittsburgh, for one third of the sum which it -costs him to transport them by land from Philadelphia. He prefers -getting them by land, because the route from New York, is uncertain; his -goods may be lost, or damaged, or delayed months beyond the time he -expects them. From Hudson River to the Mohawk is a portage of ten miles, -or thereabouts; and before they can get to Oswego are two or three more. -At Oswego the goods must be shipped on board a vessel suitable for -navigating the lakes, where they are exposed to tempests and contrary -winds. At the Falls of Niagara is a portage of nine miles more; the -goods must here be shipped again on board a vessel on Lake Erie, and -after arriving at Presqu’ Isle must be conveyed over another portage -preparatory to their being laden in a boat upon the Alleghany River. The -whole of this route, from New York to Pittsburgh, is about eight hundred -miles; that from the federal city not much more than half the distance; -if therefore the merchant at Pittsburgh can get his goods conveyed from -New York for one third of what he pays for the carriage of them by land -from Philadelphia, he ought not to pay more than one sixth of the sum -for their carriage from the federal city; it is to be concluded, -therefore, that he will avail himself of the latter route, as there will -be no objection to it on account of any uncertainty in the mode of -conveyance, arising from storms and contrary winds. - -The people in Pittsburgh, and the western country along the waters of -the Ohio, draw their supplies from Philadelphia and Baltimore; but they -send the productions of the country, which would be too bulky for land -carriage, down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans. From Pittsburgh -to New Orleans the distance is two thousand one hundred and eighty-three -miles. On an average it takes about twenty-eight days to go down there -with the stream; but to return by water it takes from sixty days to -three months. The passage back is very laborious as well as tedious; on -which account they seldom think of bringing back boats which are sent -down from Pittsburgh, but on arriving at New Orleans they are broken up, -and the plank sold. These boats are built on the cheapest construction, -and expressly for the purpose of going down stream. The men get back the -best way they can, generally in ships bound from New Orleans to the -southern states, and from thence home by land. Now, if the passage from -the Ohio to the Patowmac is opened, it cannot be supposed that the -people in Pittsburgh and the vicinity will continue thus to send the -produce down to Orleans, from whence they cannot bring any thing in -return; they will naturally send to the federal city, from whence they -can draw the supplies they are in want of, and which is so much nearer -to them, that when the navigation is perfected it will be possible to go -there and back again in the same time that it requires merely to go down -to New Orleans. - -[Sidenote: FLOODS AND EDDIES.] - -But although the people of that country which borders upon the Ohio and -its waters, in the vicinage of Pittsburgh, may have an interest in -trading to the federal city, yet those who live towards the mouth of -that river will find an interest equally great in trading to New -Orleans, for the Ohio River is no less than eleven hundred and -eighty-three miles in length. How far down upon the Ohio a commercial -intercourse will be kept up with the city, will most probably be -determined by other circumstances than that of distance alone; it may -depend upon the demand there may be at one or other port for particular -articles, &c. &c.; it may also depend upon the season; for at regular -periods there are floods in the Mississippi, and also in the Ohio, which -make a great difference in the time of ascending and descending these -rivers. The floods in the Mississippi are occasioned by the dissolution -of the immense bodies of snow and ice accumulated during winter in those -northern regions through which the river passes; they are also very -regular, beginning in the month of March and subsiding in July. Those in -the Ohio take place between Christmas and May; but they are not regular -and steady like those of the Mississippi, for the water rises and falls -many times in the course of the season. These floods are occasioned by -heavy falls of rain in the beginning of winter, as well as by the -thawing of the ice. - -The Mississippi has a very winding course[12], and at every bend there -is an eddy in the water. These eddies are always strongest during the -inundations, consequently it is then a much less difficult task to -ascend the river. With the Ohio, however, it is directly the reverse; -there are no eddies in the river; wherefore floods are found to -facilitate the passage downwards; but to render that against the stream -difficult. - -Footnote 12: - - In the year 1722, as a party of Canadians were going down the river, - they found at one place such a bend in it, that although the distance - across land, from one part of the river to the other, was not more - perhaps than two hundred yards, yet by water it was no less than forty - miles—The Canadians cut a trench across the land for curiosity—The - soil bordering upon the Mississippi is remarkably rich and soft, and - the current being strong, the river in a short time forced a new - passage for itself, and the Canadians took their boat through it. This - place is called Pointe Coupée. There are many similar bends in the - river at present, but none so great. - -[Sidenote: NAVIGATIONS.] - -Supposing, however, the season favourable for the navigation of the -Mississippi, and also for the navigation of the Ohio, which it might -well be at the same time, then Louisville, in Kentucky, is the place -through which the line may be drawn that will separate as nearly as -possible the country naturally connected with Washington from that -appertaining to New Orleans. It takes twenty days, on an average, at the -most favourable season, to go from Louisville to New Orleans, and to -return, forty; which in the whole makes sixty days. From the rapids in -the Ohio, close to which Louisville is situated, to Pittsburgh, the -distance is seven hundred and three miles; so that at the rate of thirty -miles a day, which is a moderate computation, it would require -twenty-four days to go there. From Pittsburgh to the Patowmac the -distance is one hundred and sixty miles against the stream, which at the -same rate, and allowing time for the portages, would take seven days -more, and two hundred and ninety miles down the Patowmac, at sixty miles -per day, would require five days: this is allowing thirty-five days for -going, and computing the time for returning at the same rate, that is -thirty miles against the stream, and sixty miles with the stream, each -day, it would amount to twenty-five days, which, added to the time of -going, makes in the whole fifty-nine days; if the odd day be allowed for -contingencies, the passage to and from the two places would then be -exactly alike. It is fair then to conclude, that if the demand at the -federal city for country produce be equally great as at New Orleans, and -there is no reason to say why it should not, the whole of the produce of -that country, which lies contiguous to the Ohio, and the rivers falling -into it, as far down as Louisville in Kentucky, will be sent to the -former of these places. This tract is seven hundred miles in length, and -from one hundred to two hundred miles in breadth. Added to this, the -whole of that country lying near the Alleghany River, and the streams -that run into it, must naturally be supplied from the city; a great part -of the country bordering upon Lake Erie, near Presqu’ Isle, may likewise -be included. - -Considering the vastness of the territory, which is thus opened to the -federal city by means of a water communication; considering that it is -capable, from the fertility of its soil, of maintaining three times the -number of inhabitants that are to be found at present in all the United -States; and that it is advancing at the present time more rapidly in -population than any other part of the whole continent; there is a good -foundation for thinking that the federal city, as soon as the navigation -is perfected, will increase most rapidly; and that at a future day, if -the affairs of the United States go on as prosperously as they have -done, it will become the grand emporium of the west, and rival in -magnitude and splendor the cities of the old world. - -[Illustration: - - _Plan of the_ CITY _of_ WASHINGTON -] - -[Sidenote: CITY OF WASHINGTON.] - -The city is laid out on a neck of land between the forks formed by the -eastern and western or main branch of Patowmac River. This neck of land, -together with an adjacent territory, which is in the whole ten miles -square, was ceded to congress by the states of Maryland and Virginia. -The ground on which the city immediately stands was the property of -private individuals, who readily relinquished their claim to one half of -it in favour of congress, conscious that the value of what was left to -them would increase, and amply compensate them for their loss. The -profits arising from the sale that part of which has thus been ceded to -congress will be sufficient, it is expected, to pay for the public -buildings, for the watering of the city, and also for paving and -lighting of the streets. The plan of the city was drawn by a Frenchman -of the name of L’Enfant, and is on a scale well suited to the extent of -the country, one thousand two hundred miles in length, and one thousand -in breadth, of which it is to be the metropolis; for the ground already -marked out for it is no less than fourteen miles in circumference. The -streets run north, south, east, and west; but to prevent that sameness -necessarily ensuing from the streets all crossing each other at right -angles, a number of avenues are laid out in different parts of the city, -which run transversely; and in several places, where these avenues -intersect each other, are to be hollow squares. The streets, which cross -each other at right angles, are from ninety to one hundred feet wide, -the avenues one hundred and sixty feet. One of these is named after each -state, and a hollow square also allotted to each, as a suitable place -for statues, columns, &c. which, at a future period, the people of any -one of these states may wish to erect to the memory of great men that -may appear in the country. On a small eminence, due west of the capitol, -is to be an equestrian statue of General Washington. - -The capitol is now building upon the most elevated spot of ground in the -city, which happens to be in a very central situation. From this spot -there is a complete view of every part of the city, and also of the -adjacent country. In the capitol are to be spacious apartments for the -accommodation of congress; in it also are to be the principal public -offices in the executive department of the government, together with the -courts of justice. The plan on which this building is begun is grand and -extensive; the expense of building it is estimated at a million of -dollars, equal to two hundred and twenty-five thousand pounds sterling. - -[Sidenote: ERECTIONS.] - -The house for the residence of the president stands north-west of the -capitol, at the distance of about one mile and a half. It is situated -upon a rising ground not far from the Patowmac, and commands a most -beautiful prospect of the river, and of the rich country beyond it. One -hundred acres of ground, towards the river, are left adjoining to the -house for pleasure grounds. South of this there is to be a large park or -mall, which is to run in an easterly direction from the river to the -capitol. The buildings on either side of this mall are all to be elegant -in their kind; amongst the number it is proposed to have houses built at -the public expense for the accommodation of the foreign ministers, &c. -On the eastern branch a large spot is laid out for a marine hospital and -gardens. Various other parts are appointed for churches, theatres, -colleges, &c. The ground in general, within the limits of the city, is -agreeably undulated; but none of the risings are so great as to become -objects of inconvenience in a town. The soil is chiefly of a yellowish -clay mixed with gravel. There are numbers of excellent springs in the -city, and water is readily had in most places by digging wells. Here are -two streams likewise, which run through the city, Reedy Branch and Tiber -Creek.[13] The perpendicular height of the source of the latter, above -the level of the tide, is two hundred and thirty-six feet. - -Footnote 13: - - Upon the granting possession of waste lands to any person, commonly - called the _location_ of lands, it is usual to give particular names - to different spots, and also to the creeks and rivers. On the original - location of the ground now allotted for the seat of the federal city, - this creek received the name of Tiber Creek, and the identical spot of - ground on which the capitol now stands was called Rome. This anecdote - is related by many as a certain prognostic of the future magnificence - of this city, which is to be, as it were, a second Rome. - -By the regulations published, it was settled that all the houses should -be built of brick or stone; the walls to be thirty feet high, and to be -built parallel to the line of the street, but either upon it or -withdrawn from it, as suited the taste of the builder. However, numbers -of wooden habitations have been built; but the different owners have all -been cautioned against considering them as permanent. They are to be -allowed for a certain term only, and then destroyed. Three -commissioners, who reside on the spot, are appointed by the president, -with a salary, for the purpose of superintending the public and other -buildings, and regulating every thing pertaining to the city. - -The only public buildings carrying on as yet, are the president’s house, -the capitol, and a large hotel. The president’s house, which is nearly -completed on the outside, is two stories high, and built of free stone. -The principal room in it is of an oval form. This is undoubtedly the -handsomest building in the country, and the architecture cf it is much -extolled by the people, who have never seen any thing superior; but it -will not bear a critical examination. Many persons find fault with it, -as being too large and too splendid for the residence of any one person -in a republican country; and certainly it is a ridiculous habitation for -a man who receives a salary that amounts to no more than £.5,625 -sterling per annum, and in a country where the expences of living are -far greater than they are even in London. - -[Sidenote: BUILDINGS.] - -The hotel is a large building of brick, ornamented with stone; it stands -between the president’s house and the capitol. In the beginning of the -year 1796, when I last saw it, it was roofed in, and every exertion -making to have it finished with the utmost expedition. It is any thing -but beautiful. The capitol, at the same period, was raised only a very -little way above the foundation. - -The stone, which the president’s house is built with, and such as will -be used for all the public buildings, is very similar in appearance to -that found at Portland in England; but I was informed by one of the -sculptors, who had frequently worked the Portland stone in England, that -it is of a much superior quality, as it will bear to be cut as fine as -marble, and is not liable to be injured by rain or frost. On the banks -of the Patowmac they have inexhaustible quarries of this stone; good -specimens of common marble have also been found; and there is in various -parts of the river abundance of excellent slate, paving stone, and lime -stone. Good coal may also be had. - -The private houses are all plain buildings; most of them have been built -on speculation, and still remain empty. The greatest number, at any one -place, is at Green Leafs Point, on the main river, just above the -entrance of the eastern branch. This spot has been looked upon by many -as the most convenient one for trade; but others prefer the shore of the -eastern branch, on account of the superiority of the harbour, and the -great depth of the water near the shore. There are several other -favourite situations, the choice of any one of which is a mere matter of -speculation at present. Some build near the capitol, as the most -convenient place for the residence of members of congress, some near the -president’s house; others again prefer the west end of the city, in the -neighbourhood of George Town, thinking that as trade is already -established in that place, it must be from thence that it will extend -into the city. Were the houses that have been built situated in one -place all together, they would make a very respectable appearance, but -scattered about as they are, a spectator can scarcely perceive any thing -like a town. Excepting the streets and avenues, and a small part of the -ground adjoining the public buildings, the whole place is covered with -trees. To be under the necessity of going through a deep wood for one or -two miles, perhaps, in order to see a next door neighbour, and in the -same city, is a curious, and, I believe, a novel circumstance. The -number of inhabitants in the city, in the spring of 1796, amounted to -about five thousand, including artificers, who formed by far the largest -part of that number. Numbers of strangers are continually passing and -repassing through a place which affords such an extensive field for -speculation. - -[Sidenote: CITY OF WASHINGTON.] - -[Sidenote: DISCONTENTS.] - -In addition to what has already been said upon the subject, I have only -to observe, that notwithstanding all that has been done at the city, and -the large sums of money which have been expended, there are numbers of -people in the United States, living to the north of the Patowmac, -particularly in Philadelphia, who are still very adverse to the removal -of the seat of government thither, and are doing all in their power to -check the progress of the buildings in the city, and to prevent the -congress from meeting there at the appointed time. In the spring of -1796, when I was last on the spot, the building of the capitol was -absolutely at a stand for want of money; the public lots were at a very -low price, and the commissioners were unwilling to dispose of them; in -consequence they made an application to congress, praying the house to -guaranty a loan of three hundred thousand dollars, without which they -could not go on with the public buildings, except they disposed of the -lots to great disadvantage, and to the ultimate injury of the city; so -strong, however, was the opposition, that the petition was suffered to -lie on the table unattended to for many weeks; nor was the prayer of it -complied with until a number of gentlemen, that were very deeply -interested in the improvement of the city, went round to the different -members, and made interest with them in person to give their assent to -the measure. These people, who are opposed to the building of the city -of Washington maintain, that it can never become a town of any -importance, and that all such as think to the contrary have been led -astray by the representations of a few enthusiastic persons; they go so -far even as to assert, that the people to the eastward will never submit -to see the seat of government removed so far from them, and the congress -assembled in a place little better than a forest, where it will be -impossible to procure information upon commercial points; finally, they -insist, that if the removal from Philadelphia should take place, a -separation of the states will inevitably follow. This is the language -held forth; but their opposition in reality arises from that jealousy -which narrow minded people in trade are but too apt to entertain of each -other when their interests clash together. These people wish to crush -the city of Washington while it is yet in its infancy, because they -know, that if the seat of government is transferred thither, the place -will thrive, and enjoy a considerable portion of that trade which is -centered at present in Philadelphia, Baltimore, and New York. It is -idle, however, to imagine that this will injure their different towns; -on the contrary, although a portion of that trade which they enjoy at -present should be drawn from them, yet the increase of population in -that part of the country, which they must naturally supply, will be -such, that their trade on the whole will, in all probability, be found -far more extensive after the federal city is established than it ever -was before. - -A large majority, however, of the people in the United States is -desirous that the removal of the seat of government should take place; -and there is little doubt that it will take place at the appointed time. -The discontents indeed, which an opposite measure would give rise to in -the south could not but be alarming, and if they did not occasion a -total separation of the southern from the northern states, yet they -would certainly materially destroy that harmony which has hitherto -existed between them. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + V. - -_Some Account of Alexandria.—Mount Vernon, the Seat of General - Washington.—Difficulty of finding the Way thither through the - Woods.—Description of the Mount, and of the Views from it.—Description - of the House and Grounds.—Slaves at Mount Vernon.—Thoughts thereon.—A - Person at Mount Vernon to attend to Strangers.—Return to Washington._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Washington, December. - -FROM Washington I proceeded to Alexandria, seven miles lower down the -river, which is one of the neatest towns in the United States. The -houses are mostly brick, and many of them are extremely well built. The -streets intersect each other at right angles; they are commodious and -well paved. Nine miles below this place, on the banks of the Patowmac, -stands Mount Vernon, the seat of General Washington; the way to it, -however, from Alexandria, by land, is considerably farther, on account -of the numerous creeks which fall into the Patowmac, and the mouths of -which it is impossible to pass near to. - -[Sidenote: MOUNT VERNON.] - -Very thick woods remain standing within four or five miles of the place; -the roads through them are very bad, and so many of them cross one -another in different directions, that it is a matter of very great -difficulty to find out the right one. I set out from Alexandria with a -gentleman who thought himself perfectly well acquainted with the way; -had he been so, there was ample time to have reached Mount Vernon before -the close of the day, but night overtook us wandering about in the -woods. We did not perceive the vestige of a human being to set us right, -and we were preparing to pass the night in the carriage, when luckily a -light appeared at some distance through the trees; it was from a small -farm house, the only one in the way for several miles; and having made -our way to it, partly in the carriage, partly on foot, we hired a negro -for a guide, who conducted us to the place of our destination in about -an hour. The next morning I heard of a gentleman, who, a day or two -preceding, had been from ten o’clock in the morning till four in the -afternoon on horseback, unable to find out the place, although within -three or four miles of it the whole time. - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _of_ MOUNT VERNON _the seat of_ GEN. WASHINGTON - _Published Dec. 21. 1798, by J. Stockdale, Piccadilly._ -] - -[Sidenote: MOUNT VERNON.] - -The Mount is a high part of the bank of the river, which rises very -abruptly about two hundred feet above the level of the water. The river -before it is three miles wide, and on the opposite side it forms a bay -about the same breadth, which extends for a considerable distance up the -country. This, at first light, appears to be a continuation of the -river; but the Patowmac takes a very sudden turn to the left, two or -three miles above the house, and is quickly lost to the view. Downwards, -to the right, there is a prospect of it for twelve miles. The Maryland -shore, on the opposite side, is beautifully diversified with hills, -which are mostly covered with wood; in many places, however, little -patches of cultivated ground appear, ornamented with houses. The scenery -altogether is most delightful. The house, which stands about sixty yards -from the edge of the Mount, is of wood, cut and painted so as to -resemble hewn stone. The rear is towards the river, at which side is a -portico of ninety-six feet in length, supported by eight pillars. The -front is uniform, and at a distance looks tolerably well. The dwelling -house is in the center, and communicates with the wings on either side, -by means of covered ways, running in a curved direction. Behind these -wings, on the one side, are the different offices belonging to the -house, and also to the farm, and on the other, the cabins for the -SLAVES[14]. In front, the breadth of the whole building, is a lawn with -a gravel walk round it, planted with trees, and separated by hedges on -either side from the farm yard and garden. As for the garden, it wears -exactly the appearance of a nursery, and with every thing about the -place indicates that more attention is paid to profit than to pleasure. -The ground in the rear of the house is also laid out in a lawn, and the -declivity of the Mount, towards the water, in a deer park. - -Footnote 14: - - These are amongst the first of the buildings which are seen on coming - to Mount Vernon; and it is not without astonishment and regret they - are surveyed by the stranger, whose mind has dwelt with admiration - upon the inestimable blessings of liberty, whilst approaching the - residence of that man who has distinguished himself so gloriously in - its cause. Happy would it have been, if the man who stood forth the - champion of a nation contending for its freedom, and whose declaration - to the whole world was, “That all men were created equal, and that - they were endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights, - amongst the first of which were life, liberty, and the pursuit of - happiness;” happy would it have been, if this man could have been the - first to wave all interested views, to liberate his own slaves, and - thus convince the people he had fought for, that it was their duty, - when they had established their own independence, to give freedom to - those whom they had themselves held in bondage!! - - But material objections, we must suppose, appeared against such a - measure, otherwise, doubtless, General Washington would have shewn the - glorious example. Perhaps he thought it more for the general good, - that the first step for the emancipation of slaves should be taken by - the legislative assembly; or perhaps there was reason to apprehend, - that the enfranchisement of his own slaves might be the cause of - insurrections amongst others who were not liberated, a matter which - could not but be attended with evil consequences in a country where - the number of slaves exceeded that of freemen; however, it does not - appear that any measures have been pursued, either by private - individuals or by the legislature in Virginia, for the abolition of - slavery; neither have any steps been taken for the purpose in - Maryland, much less in the more southern states; but in Pennsylvania - and the rest, laws have passed for its gradual abolition. In these - states the number of slaves, it is true, was very small, and the - measure was therefore easily carried into effect; in the others then - it will require more consideration. The plan, however, which has been - adopted for the liberation of the few has succeeded well; why then not - try it with a larger number? If it does not answer, still I cannot but - suppose that it might be so modified as to be rendered applicable to - the enfranchisement of the number of ill-fated beings who are enslaved - in the southern parts of the country, let it be ever so large. - However, that there will be an end to slavery in the United States, on - some day or other, cannot be doubted; negroes will not remain deaf to - the inviting call of liberty for ever; and if their avaricious - oppressors do not free them from the galling yoke, they will liberate - themselves with a vengeance. - -[Sidenote: MOUNT VERNON.] - -The rooms in the house are very small, excepting one, which has been -built since the close of the war for the purpose of entertainments. All -of these are very plainly furnished, and in many of them the furniture -is dropping to pieces. Indeed, the close attention which General -Washington has ever paid to public affairs having obliged him to reside -principally at Philadelphia, Mount Vernon has consequently suffered very -materially. The house and offices, with every other part of the place, -are out of repair, and the old part of the building is in such a -perishable state, that I have been told he wishes he had pulled it -entirely down at first, and built a new house, instead of making any -addition to the old one. The grounds in the neighbourhood are -cultivated, but the principal farms are at the distance of two or three -miles. - -As almost every stranger going through the country makes a point of -visiting Mount Vernon, a person is kept at the house during General -Washington’s absence, whose sole business it is to attend to strangers. -Immediately on our arrival every care was taken of our horses, beds were -prepared, and an excellent supper provided for us, with claret and other -wine, &c. - -As the season was now too far advanced to see the country to advantage, -I proceeded no farther in Virginia than Mount Vernon, but returned again -to the city of Washington. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + VI. - -_Arrival at Philadelphia.—Some Observations on the Climate of the Middle - States.—Public Carriages prevented from plying between Baltimore and - Philadelphia by the Badness of the Roads.—Left Baltimore during - Frost.—Met with American Travellers on the Road.—Their Behaviour - preparatory to setting off from an Inn.—Arrival on the Banks of the - Susquehannah.—Passage of that River when frozen over.—Dangerous - Situation of the Passengers.—American Travellers at the Tavern on the - opposite Side of the River.—Their noisy Disputations._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, February. - -AFTER having spent some weeks in Washington, George Town, and Baltimore, -I set out for this city, where I arrived four days ago. - -The months of October and November are the most agreeable, in the middle -and southern states, of any in the year; the changes in the weather are -then less frequent, and for the most part the air is temperate and the -sky serene. During this year the air was so mild, that when I was at -George Town, even as late as the second week in December, it was found -pleasant to keep the windows up during dinner time. This, however, was -an unusual circumstance. - -[Sidenote: WINDS.] - -In Maryland, before December was over, there were a few cold days, and -during January we had two or three different falls of snow; but for the -most part the weather remained very mild until the latter end of -January, when a sharp north-west wind set in. The keenness of this wind -in winter is prodigious, and surpasses every thing of the kind which we -have an idea of in England. Whenever it blows, during the winter months, -a frost immediately takes place. In the course of three days, in the -present instance, the Susquehannah and Delaware rivers were frozen over; -a fall of snow took place, which remained on the ground about two feet -deep, and there was every appearance of a severe and tedious winter. -Before five days, however, were over, the wind again changed, and so -sudden was the thaw that the snow disappeared entirely on the second -day, and not a vestige of the frost was to be seen, excepting in the -rivers, where large pieces of ice remained floating about. - -It was about the middle of December when I reached Baltimore; but I was -deterred from going on to Philadelphia until the frosty weather should -set in, by the badness of the roads; for they were in such a state, that -even the public stages were prevented from plying for the space of ten -or twelve days. The frost soon dried them, and rendered them as good as -in summer. I set out when it was most severe. At day-break, the morning -after I left Baltimore, the thermometer, according to Fahrenheit, stood -at 7°. I never observed it so low during any other part of the winter. - -[Sidenote: INTENSE COLD.] - -Several travellers had stopped at the same house that I did the first -night I was on the road, and we all breakfasted together preparatory to -setting out the next morning. The American travellers, before they -pursued their journey, took a hearty draught each, according to custom, -of egg-nog, a mixture composed of new milk, eggs, rum, and sugar, beat -up together; they appeared to be at no small pains also in fortifying -themselves against the severity of the weather with great coats and -wrappers over each other, woollen socks and trowsers over their boots, -woollen mittens over their gloves, and silk handkerchiefs tied over -their ears and mouths, &c. so that nothing could be seen excepting their -noses and their eyes. It was absolutely a subject of diversion to me, -and to a young gentleman just arrived from the West Indies, who -accompanied me from Baltimore, to see the great care with which they -wrapped themselves up, for we both found ourselves sufficiently warm in -common clothing. It seems, however, to be a matter generally allowed, -that strangers, even from the West Indies, unaccustomed to intense cold, -do not suffer so much from the severity of the winter, the first year of -their arrival in America, as the white people who have been born in the -country. Every person that we met upon the road was wrapped up much in -the same manner as the travellers who breakfasted with us, and had silk -handkerchiefs tied round their heads, so as to cover their mouths and -ears. - -About the middle of the day we arrived at the Susquehannah, and, as we -expected to find it, the river was frozen entirely over. In what manner -we were to get across was now the question. The people at the -ferry-house were of opinion that the ice was not sufficiently strong to -bear in every part of the river; at the same time they said, it was so -very thick near the shores, that it would be impracticable to cut a -passage through it before the day was over; however, as a great number -of travellers desirous of getting across was collected together, and as -all of them were much averse to remaining at the ferry-house till the -next morning, by which time it was supposed that the ice would be strong -enough to bear in every part, the people were at last over-ruled, and -every thing was prepared for cutting a way across the river. - -[Sidenote: THE SUSQUEHANNAH.] - -The passengers were about twelve in number, with four horses; the boat’s -crew consisted of seven blacks; three of whom, with large clubs, stood -upon the bow of the boat, and broke the ice, whilst the others, with -iron-headed poles, pushed the boat forwards. So very laborious was the -task which the men at the bow had to perform, that it was necessary for -the others to relieve them every ten minutes. At the end of half an hour -their hands, arms, faces, and hats, were glazed entirely over with a -thick coat of ice, formed from the water which was dashed up by the -reiterated strokes of their clubs. Two hours elapsed before one half of -the way was broken; the ice was found much thicker than had been -imagined; the clubs were shivered to pieces; the men were quite -exhausted; and having suffered the boat to remain stationary for a -minute or two in a part where the ice was remarkably thick, it was -frozen up, so that the utmost exertions of the crew and passengers -united were unable to extricate it. In this predicament a council was -held; it was impossible to move either backward or forward; the boat was -half a mile from the shore; no one would attempt to walk there on the -ice; to remain all night in the boat would be death. Luckily I had a -pair of pistols in my holsters, and having fired a few signals, the -attention of the people on shore was attracted towards us, and a small -batteau, which is a light boat with a flat bottom, was dispatched for -our relief. This was not sent, however, for the purpose of bringing a -single person back again, but to assist us in getting to the opposite -shore. It was slipped along a-head of the large boat, and two or three -men having stepped into it, rocked it about from side to side until the -ice was sufficiently broken for the large boat to follow. The batteau -was now in the water, and the men seating themselves as much as possible -towards the stern, by so doing raised the bow of it considerably above -the ice; by means of boat hooks it was then pulled on the ice again, and -by rocking it about as before a passage was as easily opened. In this -manner we got on, and at the end of three hours and ten minutes found -ourselves again upon dry land, fully prepared for enjoying the pleasures -of a bright fireside and a good dinner. The people at the tavern had -seen us coming across, and had accordingly prepared for our reception; -and as each individual thought he had travelled quite far enough that -day, the passengers remained together till the next morning. - -[Sidenote: DISPUTATIONS.] - -At the American taverns, as I before mentioned, all sorts of people, -just as they happen to arrive, are crammed together into the one room, -where they must reconcile themselves to each other the best way they -can. On the present occasion, the company consisted of about thirteen -people, amongst whom were some eminent lawyers from Virginia and the -southward, together with a judge of the supreme court, who were going to -Philadelphia against the approaching sessions: it was not, however, till -after I quitted their company that I heard who they were; for these kind -of gentlemen in America are so very plain, both in their appearance and -manners, that a stranger would not suspect that they were persons of the -consequence which they really are in the country. There were also in the -company two or three of the neighbouring farmers, boorish, ignorant, and -obtrusive fellows. It is scarcely possible for a dozen Americans to sit -together without quarrelling about politics, and the British treaty, -which had just been ratified, now gave rise to a long and acrimonious -debate. The farmers were of one opinion, and gabbled away for a long -time; the lawyers and the judge were of another, and in turns they rose -to answer their opponents with all the power of rhetoric which they -possessed. Neither party could say any thing to change the sentiments of -the other one; the noisy contest lasted till late at night, when getting -heartily tired they withdrew, not to their respective chambers, but to -the general one that held five or six beds, and in which they laid down -in pairs. Here the conversation was again revived, and pursued with as -much noise as below, till at last sleep closed their eyes, and happily -their mouths at the same time; for could they have talked in their -sleep, I verily believe they would have prated on until morning. Thanks -to our stars! my friend and I got the only two-bedded room in the house -to ourselves. The next morning I left the banks of the Susquehannah, and -the succeeding day reached Philadelphia. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + VII. - -_Philadelphia gayer in the Winter than at any other Season.—Celebration - in that City of General Washington’s Birth Day.—Some Account of - General Washington’s Person and of his Character.—Americans - dissatisfied with his Conduct as President.—A Spirit of - Dissatisfaction common amongst them._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, February. - -[Sidenote: GENERAL WASHINGTON.] - - -PHILADELPHIA now wears a very different aspect to what it did when I -landed there in the month of November. Both congress and the state -assembly are sitting, as well as the supreme federal court. The city is -full of strangers; the theatres are open; and a variety of public and -private amusements are going forward. On General Washington’s birth day, -which was a few days ago, this city was unusually gay[15]; every person -of consequence in it, Quakers alone excepted, made it a point to visit -the General on this day. As early as eleven o’clock in the morning he -was prepared to receive them, and the audience lasted till three in the -afternoon. The society of the Cincinnati, the clergy, the officers of -the militia, and several others, who formed a distinct body of citizens, -came by themselves separately. The foreign ministers attended in their -richest dresses and most splendid equipages. Two large parlours were -open for the reception of the gentlemen, the windows of one of which -towards the street were crowded with spectators on the outside. The -sideboard was furnished with cake and wines, whereof the visitors -partook. I never observed so much cheerfulness before in the countenance -of General Washington; but it was impossible for him to remain -insensible to the attention and the compliments paid to him on this -occasion. - -Footnote 15: - - On this day General Washington terminated his sixty-fourth year; but - though not an unhealthy man, he seemed considerably older. The - innumerable vexations he has met with in his different public - capacities have very sensibly impaired the vigour of his constitution, - and given him an aged appearance. There is a very material difference, - however, in his looks when seen in private and when he appears in - public full drest; in the latter case the hand of art makes up for the - ravages of time, and he seems many years younger. - - Few persons find themselves for the first time in the presence of - General Washington, a man so renowned in the present day for his - wisdom and moderation, and whose name will be transmitted with such - honour to posterity, without being impressed with a certain degree of - veneration and awe; nor do these emotions subside on a closer - acquaintance; on the contrary, his person and deportment are such as - rather tend to augment them. There is something very austere in his - countenance, and in his manners he is uncommonly reserved. I have - heard some officers, that served immediately under his command during - the American war, say, that they never saw him smile during all the - time that they were with him. No man has ever yet been connected with - him by the reciprocal and unconstrained ties of friendship; and but a - few can boast even of having been on an easy and familiar footing with - him. - - The height of his person is about five feet eleven; his chest is full; - and his limbs, though rather slender, well shaped and muscular. His - head is small, in which respect he resembles the make of a great - number of his countrymen. His eyes are of a light grey colour; and, in - proportion to the length of his face, his nose is long. Mr. Stewart, - the eminent portrait painter, told me, that there are features in his - face totally different from what he ever observed in that of any other - human being; the sockets for the eyes, for instance, are larger than - what he ever met with before, and the upper part of the nose broader. - All his features, he observed, were indicative of the strongest and - most ungovernable passions, and had he been born in the forests, it - was his opinion that he would have been the fiercest man amongst the - savage tribes. In this Mr. Stewart has given a proof of his great - discernment and intimate knowledge of the human countenance; for - although General Washington has been extolled for his great moderation - and calmness, during the very trying situations in which he has so - often been placed, yet those who have been acquainted with him the - longest and most intimately say, that he is by nature a man of a - fierce and irritable disposition, but that, like Socrates, his - judgment and great self-command have always made him appear a man of a - different cast in the eyes of the world. He speaks with great - diffidence, and sometimes hesitates for a word; but it is always to - find one particularly well adapted to his meaning. His language is - manly and expressive. At levee, his discourse with strangers turns - principally upon the subject of America; and if they have been through - any remarkable places, his conversation is free and particularly - interesting, as he is intimately acquainted with every part of the - country. He is much more open and free in his behaviour at levee than - in private, and in the company of ladies still more so than when - solely with men. - - General Washington gives no public dinners or other entertainments, - except to those who are in diplomatic capacities, and to a few - families on terms of intimacy with Mrs. Washington. Strangers, with - whom he wishes to have some conversation about agriculture, or any - such subject, are sometimes invited to tea. This by many is attributed - to his saving disposition; but it is more just to ascribe it to his - prudence and foresight; for as the salary of the president, as I have - before observed, is very small, and totally inadequate by itself to - support an expensive style of life, were he to give numerous and - splendid entertainments, the same might possibly be expected from - subsequent presidents, who, if their private fortunes were not - considerable, would be unable to live in the same style, and might be - exposed to many ill-natured observations, from the relinquishment of - what the people had been accustomed to; it is most likely also that - General Washington has been actuated by these motives, because in his - private capacity at Mount Vernon every stranger meets with a - hospitable reception from him. - - General Washington’s self-moderation is well known to the world - already. It is a remarkable circumstance, which redounds to his - eternal honour, that while president of the United States he never - appointed one of his own relations to any office of trust or - emolument, although he has several that are men of abilities, and well - qualified to fill the most important stations in the government. - -The ladies of the city, equally attentive, paid their respects to Mrs. -Washington, who received them in the drawing room up stairs. After -having visited the General, most of the gentlemen also waited upon her. -A public ball and supper terminated the rejoicings of the day. - -Not one town of any importance was there in the whole union, where some -meeting did not take place in honour of this day; yet singular as it may -appear, there are people in the country, Americans too, foremost in -boasting to other nations of that constitution which has been raised for -them by his valour and wisdom, who are either so insensible to his -merit, or so totally devoid of every generous sentiment, that they can -refuse to join in commendations of those talents to which they are so -much indebted; indeed to such a length has this perverse spirit been -carried, that I have myself seen numbers of men, in all other points men -of respectability, that have peremptorily refused even to pay him the -small compliment of drinking to his health after dinner; it is true -indeed, that they qualify their conduct partly by asserting, that it is -only as president of the United States, and not as General Washington, -that they have a dislike to him; but this is only a mean subterfuge, -which they are forced to have recourse to, lest their conduct should -appear too strongly marked with ingratitude. During the war there were -many, and not loyalists either, who were doing all in their power to -remove him from that command whereby he so eminently distinguished -himself. It is the spirit of dissatisfaction which forms a leading trait -in the character of the Americans as a people, which produces this -malevolence at present, just as it did formerly; and if their public -affairs were regulated by a person sent from heaven, I firmly believe -his acts, instead of meeting with universal approbation, would by many -be considered as deceitful and flagitious. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + VIII. - -_Singular Mildness of the Winter of 1795-6.—Set out for - Lancaster.—Turnpike Road between that Place and Philadelphia.—Summary - View of the State of Pennsylvania.—Description of the Farms between - Lancaster and Philadelphia.—The Farmers live in a penurious - Style.—Greatly inferior to English Farmers.—Bad Taverns on this - Road.—Waggons and Waggoners.—Customs of the latter.—Description of - Lancaster.—Lately made the Seat of the State Government.—Manufactures - carried on there.—Rifle Guns.—Great Dexterity with which the Americans - use them.—Anecdote of Two Virginian Soldiers belonging to a Rifle - Regiment._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Lancaster, March. - -THIS winter has proved one of the mildest that has ever been experienced -in the country. During the last month there were two or three slight -falls of snow, but in no one instance did it remain two days on the -ground. A smart frost sat in the first week of this month, and snow fell -to the depth of six or seven inches; but on the third day a sudden thaw -came on, and it quickly disappeared: since then the weather has remained -uncommonly mild. The season being so fine, and so favourable for -travelling, I was unwilling to stay at Philadelphia; accordingly I set -out for this place on horseback, and arrived here last night, at the end -of the second day’s journey. From hence I intend to proceed towards the -south, to meet the approaching spring. - -The road between Philadelphia and Lancaster has lately undergone a -thorough repair, and tolls are levied upon it, to keep it in order, -under the direction of a company. Whenever these tolls afford a profit -of more than fifteen per cent. on the stock originally subscribed for -making the road, the company is bound, by an act of assembly, to lessen -them. This is the first attempt to have a turnpike road in Pennsylvania, -and it is by no means relished by the people at large, particularly by -the waggoners, who go in great numbers by this route to Philadelphia -from the back parts of the state. - -[Sidenote: ROADS.] - -The state of Pennsylvania lies nearly in the form of a parallelogram, -whose greatest length is from east to west. This parallelogram is -crossed diagonally from the north-east to the south-west by several -different ridges of mountains, which are about one hundred miles in -breadth. The valleys between these ridges contain a rich black soil, and -in the south-west and north-east angles also, at the outside of the -mountains, the soil is very good. The northern parts of this state are -but very thinly inhabited as yet, but towards the south, the whole way -from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, it is well settled. The most populous -part of it is the south-east corner, which lies between the mountains -and the river Delaware; through this part the turnpike road passes which -leads to Lancaster. The country on each side of the road is pleasingly -diversified with hill and dale. Cultivation is chiefly confined to the -low lands, which are the richest; the hills are all left covered with -wood, and afford a pleasing variety to the eye. The further you go from -Philadelphia the more fertile is the country, and the more picturesque -at the same time. - -[Sidenote: FARMS.] - -On the whole road from Philadelphia to Lancaster there are not any two -dwellings standing together, excepting at a small place called Downing’s -Town, which lies about midway; numbers of farm houses, however, are -scattered over the country as far as the eye can reach. These houses are -mostly built of stone, and are about as good as those usually met with -on an arable farm of fifty acres in a well cultivated part of England. -The farms attached to these houses contain about two hundred acres each, -and are, with a few exceptions only, the property of the persons who -cultivate them. In the cultivated parts of Pennsylvania the farms rarely -exceed three hundred acres; towards the north, however, where the -settlements are but few, large tracts of land are in the hands of -individuals, who are speculators and land jobbers. Adjoining to the -houses there is generally a peach or an apple orchard. With the fruit -they make cyder and brandy; the people have a method also of drying the -peaches and apples, after having sliced them, in the sun, and thus cured -they last all the year round. They are used for pies and puddings, but -they have a very acrid taste, and scarcely any of the original flavour -of the fruit. The peaches in their best state are but indifferent, being -small and dry; I never eat any that were good, excepting such as were -raised with care in gardens. It is said that the climate is so much -altered that they will not grow now as they formerly did. In April and -May nightly frosts are very common, which were totally unknown formerly, -and frequently the peaches are entirely blighted. Gardens are very rare -in the country parts of Pennsylvania, for the farmers think the labour -which they require does not afford sufficient profit; in the -neighbourhood of towns, however, they are common, and the culinary -vegetables raised in them are equal to any of their respective kinds in -the world, _potatoes_ excepted, which generally have an earthy -unpleasant taste. - -Though the south-east part of the state of Pennsylvania is better -cultivated than any other part of America, yet the style of farming is -on the whole very slovenly. I venture, indeed, to assert, that the -farmers do not raise more on their two hundred acres than a skilful -farmer in Norfolk, Suffolk, or Essex, or in any well cultivated part of -England, would do on fifty acres of good land there. The farmer also, -who rents fifty acres of arable land in England, lives far more -comfortably in every respect than the farmer in Pennsylvania, or in any -other of the middle states, who owns two hundred acres of land, his -house will be found better furnished, and his table more plentifully -covered. That the farmers do not live better in America, I hardly know -whether to ascribe to their love of making money, or to their real -indifference about better fare; perhaps it may be owing, in some -measure, to both; certain it is however, that their mode of living is -most wretched. - -[Sidenote: WAGGONS.] - -The taverns throughout this part of the country are kept by farmers, and -they are all very indifferent. If the traveller can procure a few eggs -with a little bacon he ought to rest satisfied; it is twenty to one that -a bit of fresh meat is to be had, or any salted meat except pork. -Vegetables, seem also to be very scarce, and when you do get any, they -generally consist of turnips, or turnip tops boiled by way of greens. -The bread is heavy and sour, though they have as fine flour as any in -the world; this is owing to their method of making of it; they raise it -with what they call _sots_; hops and water boiled together. No -dependance is to be placed upon getting a man at these taverns to rub -down your horse, or even to give him his food, frequently therefore you -will have to do every thing of the kind for yourself if you do not -travel with a servant; and indeed, even where men are kept for the -purpose of attending to travellers, which at some of the taverns is the -case, they are so sullen and disobliging that you feel inclined to do -every thing with your own hands rather than be indebted to them for -their assistance: they always appear doubtful whether they should do any -thing for you or not, and to be reasoning within themselves, whether it -is not too great a departure from the rules of equality to take the -horse of another man, and whether it would not be a pleasing sight to -see a gentleman strip off his coat, and go to work for himself; nor will -money make them alter their conduct; civility, as I before said, is not -to be purchased at any expence in America; nevertheless the people will -pocket your money with the utmost readiness, though without thanking you -for it. Of all beings on the earth, Americans are the most interested -and covetous. - -It is scarcely possible to go one mile on this road without meeting -numbers of waggons passing and repassing between the back parts of the -state and Philadelphia. These waggons are commonly drawn by four or five -horses, four of which are yoked in pairs. The waggons are heavy, the -horses small, and the driver unmerciful; the consequence of which is, -that in every team, nearly, there is a horse either lame or blind. The -Pennsylvanians are notorious for the bad care which they take of their -horses. Excepting the night be tempestuous, the waggoners never put -their horses under shelter, and then it is only under a shed; each -tavern is usually provided with a large one for the purpose. Market or -High-street, in Philadelphia, the street by which these people come into -the town, is always crowded with waggons and horses, that are left -standing there all night. This is to save money; the expence of putting -them into a stable would be too great, in the opinion of these people. -Food for the horses is always carried in the waggon, and the moment they -stop they are unyoked, and fed whilst they are warm. By this treatment -half the poor animals are foundered. The horses are fed out of a large -trough carried for the purpose, and fixed on the pole of the waggon by -means of iron pins. - -Lancaster is the largest inland town in North America, and contains -about nine hundred houses, built chiefly of brick and stone, together -with six churches, a court-house, and gaol. Of the churches, there is -one respectively for German Lutherans, German Calvinists, Moravians, -English Episcopalians, and Roman Catholics. The streets are laid out -regularly, and cross each other at right angles. - -[Sidenote: RIFLE GUNS.] - -An act of assembly has been passed, for making this town the seat of the -state government instead of Philadelphia, and the assembly was to meet -in the year 1797. This circumstance is much in favour of the improvement -of the town. The Philadelphians, inimical to the measure, talked of it -much in the same style that they do now of the removal of the seat of -the federal government, saying, that it must be again changed to -Philadelphia; but the necessity of having the seat of the legislature as -central as possible in each state is obvious, and if a change does take -place again, it is most likely that it will only be to remove the seat -still farther from Philadelphia. On the same principle, the assembly of -Virginia meets now at Richmond instead of Williamsburgh, and that of New -York state at Albany instead of the city of New York. - -Several different kinds of articles are manufactured at Lancaster by -German mechanics, individually, principally for the people of the town -and the neighbourhood. Rifled barrel guns however are to be excepted, -which, although not as handsome as those imported from England, are more -esteemed by the hunters, and are sent to every part of the country. - -[Sidenote: RIFLE GUNS.] - -The rifled barrel guns, commonly used in America, are nearly of the -length of a musket, and carry leaden balls from the size of thirty to -sixty in the pound. Some hunters prefer those of a small bore, because -they require but little ammunition; others prefer such as have a wide -bore, because the wound which they inflict is more certainly attended -with death; the wound, however, made by a ball discharged from one of -these guns is always very dangerous. The inside of the barrel is fluted, -and the grooves run in a spiral direction from one end of the barrel to -the other, consequently when the ball comes out it has a whirling motion -round its own axis, at the same time that it moves forward, and when it -enters into the body of an animal, it tears up the flesh in a dreadful -manner. The best of powder is chosen for a rifled barrel gun, and after -a proper portion of it is put down the barrel, the ball is inclosed in a -small bit of linen rag, well greased at the outside, and then forced -down with a thick ramrod. The grease and the bits of rag, which are -called patches, are carried in a little box at the but-end of the gun. -The best rifles are furnished with two triggers, one of which being -first pulled sets the other, that is, alters the spring, so that it will -yield even to the slight touch of a feather. They are also furnished -with double sights along the barrel, as fine as those of a surveying -instrument. An experienced marksman, with one of these guns, will hit an -object not larger than a crown piece, to a certainty, at the distance of -one hundred yards. Two men belonging to the Virginia rifle regiment, a -large division of which was quartered in this town during the war, had -such a dependance on each other’s dexterity, that the one would hold a -piece of board, not more than nine inches square, between his knees, -whilst the other shot at it with a ball at the distance of one hundred -paces. This they used to do alternately, for the amusement of the town’s -people, as often as they were called upon. Numbers of people in -Lancaster can vouch for the truth of this fact. Were I, however, to tell -you all the stories I have heard of the performances of riflemen, you -would think the people were most abominably addicted to lying. A rifle -gun will not carry shot, nor will it carry a ball much farther than one -hundred yards with certainty. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + IX. - -_Number of Germans in the Neighbourhood of York and Lancaster.—How - brought over.—White Slave Trade.—Cruelty frequently practised in the - carrying it on.—Character of the German Settlers contrasted with that - of the Americans.—Passage of the Susquehannah between York and - Lancaster.—Great Beauty of the Prospects along the River.—Description - of York.—Courts of Justice there.—Of the Pennsylvanian System of - Judicature._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, York, March. - -[Sidenote: WHITE SLAVE TRADE.] - - -I Arrived at this place, which is about twenty miles distant from -Lancaster, yesterday. The inhabitants of this town, as well as those of -Lancaster and of the adjoining country, consist principally of Dutch and -German emigrants, and their descendants. Great numbers of these people -emigrate to America every year, and the importation of them forms a very -considerable branch of commerce. They are for the most part brought from -the Hanse Towns and from Rotterdam. The vessels sail thither from -America, laden with different kinds of produce, and the masters of them, -on arriving there, entice on board as many of these people as they can -persuade to leave their native country, without demanding any money for -their passage. When the vessel arrives in America, an advertisement is -put into the paper, mentioning the different kinds of men on board, -whether smiths, taylors, carpenters, labourers, or the like, and the -people that are in want of such men flock down to the vessel; these poor -Germans are then sold to the highest bidder, and the captain of the -vessel, or the ship holder, puts the money into his pocket[16]. - -Footnote 16: - - Thousands of people were brought from the north of Ireland in the same - way before the war with France. - -There have been many very shocking instances of cruelty in the carrying -on of this trade, vulgarly called “The white slave trade.” I shall tell -you but of one. While the yellow fever was raging in Philadelphia in the -year 1793, at which time few vessels would venture to approach nearer to -the city than Fort Mifflin, four miles below it, a captain in the trade -arrived in the river, and hearing that such was the fatal nature of the -infection, that a sufficient number of nurses could not be procured to -attend the sick for any sum whatever, he conceived the philanthropic -idea of supplying this deficiency from amongst his passengers; -accordingly he boldly sailed up to the city, and advertised his cargo -for sale: - -“A few healthy servants, generally between seventeen and eighteen years -of age, are just arrived in the brig ——, their times will be disposed of -by applying on board.” The cargo, as you may suppose, did not remain -long unsold. This anecdote was communicated to me by a gentleman who has -the original advertisement in his possession. - -When I tell you that people are sold in this manner, it is not to be -understood that they are sold for ever, but only for a certain number of -years; for two, three, four, or five years, according to their -respective merits. A good mechanic, that understands a particular kind -of trade, for which men are much wanted in America, has to serve a -shorter time than a mere labourer, as more money will be given for his -time, and the expence of his passage does not exceed that of any other -man. During their servitude, these people are liable to be resold at the -caprice of their masters; they are as much under dominion as negro -slaves, and if they attempt to run away, they may be imprisoned like -felons. The laws respecting “redemptioners,” so are the men called that -are brought over in this manner, were grounded on those formed for the -English convicts before the revolution, and they are very severe. - -[Sidenote: GERMAN SETTLERS.] - -The Germans are a quiet, sober, and industrious set of people, and are -most valuable citizens. They generally settle a good many together in -one place, and, as may be supposed, in consequence keep up many of the -customs of their native country as well as their own language. In -Lancaster and the neighbourhood German is the prevailing language, and -numbers of people living there are ignorant of any other. The Germans -are some of the best farmers in the United States, and they seldom are -to be found but where the land is particularly good; wherever they -settle they build churches, and are wonderfully attentive to the duties -of religion. In these and many other respects the Germans and their -descendants differ widely from the Americans, that is, from the -descendants of the English, Scotch, Irish, and other nations, who, from -having lived in the country for many generations, and from having -mingled together, now form one people, whose manners and habits are very -much the same. - -The Germans are a plodding race of men, wholly intent upon their own -business, and indifferent about that of others: a stranger is never -molested as he passes through their settlements with inquisitive and -idle questions. On arriving amongst the Americans[17], however, a -stranger must tell where he came from, where he is going, what his name -is, what his business is; and until he gratifies their curiosity on -these points, and many others of equal importance, he is never suffered -to remain quiet for a moment. In a tavern he must satisfy every fresh -set that comes in, in the same manner, or involve himself in a quarrel, -especially if it is found out that he is not a native, which it does not -require much sagacity to discover. - -Footnote 17: - - In speaking of the Americans here, and in the following lines, it is - those of the lower and middling classes of the people which I allude - to, such as are met with in the country parts of Pennsylvania. - -[Sidenote: GERMAN SETTLERS.] - -The Germans give themselves but little trouble about politics; they -elect their representatives to serve in congress and the state -assemblies; and satisfied that deserving men have been chosen by the -people at large, they trust that these men do what is best for the -public good, and therefore abide patiently by their decisions: they -revere the constitution, conscious that they live happily under it, and -express no wishes to have it altered. The Americans, however, are for -ever cavilling at some of the public measures; something or other is -always wrong, and they never appear perfectly satisfied. If any great -measure is before congress for discussion, seemingly distrustful of the -abilities or the integrity of the men they have elected, they meet -together in their towns or districts, canvass the matter themselves, and -then send forward instructions to their representatives how to act. They -never consider that any important question is more likely to meet with a -fair discussion in an assembly where able men are collected together -from all parts of the states than in an obscure corner, where a few -individuals are assembled, who have no opportunity of getting general -information on the subject. Party spirit is for ever creating -dissentions amongst them, and one man is continually endeavouring to -obtrude his political creed upon another. If it is found out that a -stranger is from Great Britain or Ireland, they immediately begin to -boast of their own constitution and freedom, and give him to understand, -that they think every Englishman a slave, because he submits to be -called a subject. Their opinions are for the most part crude and -dogmatical, and principally borrowed from newspapers, which are -wretchedly compiled from the pamphlets of the day, having read a few of -which, they think themselves arrived at the summit of intellectual -excellence, and qualified for making the deepest political researches. - -[Sidenote: THE SUSQUEHANNAH.] - -The Germans, as I have said, are fond of settling near each other: when -the young men of a family are grown up, they generally endeavour to get -a piece of land in the neighbourhood of their relations, and by their -industry soon make it valuable; the American, on the contrary, is of a -roving disposition, and wholly regardless of the ties of consanguinity; -he takes his wife with him, goes to a distant part of the country, and -buries himself in the woods, hundreds of miles distant from the rest of -his family, never perhaps to see them again. In the back parts of the -country you always meet numbers of men prowling about to try and buy -cheap land; having found what they like, they immediately remove; nor -having once removed, are these people satisfied; restless and -discontented with what they possess, they are for ever changing. It is -scarcely possible in any part of the continent to find a man, amongst -the middling and lower classes of Americans, who has not changed his -farm and his residence many different times. Thus it is, that though -there are not more than four millions of people in the United States, -yet they are scattered from the confines of Canada to the farthest -extremity of Georgia, and from the Atlantic to the banks of the -Mississippi. Thousands of acres of waste land are annually taken up in -unhealthy and unfruitful parts of the country, notwithstanding that the -best settled and healthy parts of the middle states would maintain five -times the number of inhabitants that they do at present. The American, -however, does not change about from place to place in this manner merely -to gratify a wandering disposition; in every change he hopes to make -money. By the desire of making money, both the Germans and Americans of -every class and description are actuated in all their movements; -self-interest is always uppermost in their thoughts; it is the idol -which they worship, and at its shrine thousands and thousands would be -found, in all parts of the country, ready to make a sacrifice of every -noble and generous sentiment that can adorn the human mind. - -In coming to this place from Lancaster I crossed the Susquehannah River, -which runs nearly midway between the two towns, at the small village of -Columbia, as better boats are kept there than at either of the ferries -higher up or lower down the river. The Susquehannah is here somewhat -more than a quarter of a mile wide, and for a considerable distance, -both above and below the ferry, it abounds with islands and large rocks, -over which last the water runs with prodigious velocity: the roaring -noise that it makes is heard a great way off. The banks rise very boldly -on each side, and are thickly wooded; the islands also are covered with -small trees, which, interspersed with the rocks, produce a very fine -effect. The scenery in every point of view is wild and romantic. In -crossing the river it is necessary to row up against the stream under -the shore, and then to strike over to the opposite side, under the -shelter of some of the largest islands. As these rapids continue for -many miles, they totally impede the navigation, excepting when there are -floods in the river, at which time large rafts may be conducted down the -dream, carrying several hundred barrels of flour. It is said that the -river could be rendered navigable in this neighbourhood, but the expence -of such an undertaking would be enormous, and there is little likelihood -indeed that it will ever be attempted, as the Pennsylvanians are already -engaged in cutting a canal below Harrisburgh, which will connect the -navigable part of the river with the Schuylkill, and also another canal -from the Schuylkill to the Delaware, by means of which a vent will be -opened for the produce of the country bordering upon the Susquehannah at -Philadelphia. These canals would have been finished by this time if the -subscribers had all paid their respective shares, but at present they -are almost at a stand for want of money. - -[Sidenote: LAWYERS.] - -The quantity of wild fowl that is seen on every part of the Susquehannah -is immense. Throughout America the wild fowl is excellent and plentiful; -but there is one duck in particular found on this river, and also on -Patowmac and James rivers, which surpasses all others: it is called the -white or canvass-back duck, from the feathers between the wings being -somewhat of the colour of canvass. This duck is held in such estimation -in America, that it is sent frequently as a present for hundreds of -miles—indeed it would be a dainty morsel for the greatest epicure in any -country. - -York contains about five hundred houses and six churches, and is much -such another town as Lancaster. It is inhabited by Germans, by whom the -same manufactures are carried on as at Lancaster. - -The courts of common pleas, and those of general quarter sessions, were -holding when I reached this place; I found it difficult, therefore, at -first, to procure accommodation, but at last I got admission in a house -principally taken up by lawyers. To behold the strange assemblage of -persons that was brought together this morning in the one poor apartment -which was allotted to all the lodgers, was really a subject of -diversion. Here one lawyer had his clients in a corner of the room; -there another had his; a third was shaving; a fourth powdering his own -hair; a fifth noting his brief; and the table standing in the middle of -the room, between a clamorous set of old men on one side, and three or -four women in tears on the other; I and the rest of the company, who -were not lawyers, were left to eat our breakfast. - -[Sidenote: PENNSYLVANIA COURTS.] - -On entering into the courts a stranger is apt to smile at the grotesque -appearance of the judges who preside in them, and at their manners on -the bench; but this smile must be suppressed when it is recollected, -that there is no country, perhaps, in the world, where justice is more -impartially administered, or more easily obtained by those who have been -injured. The judges in the country parts of Pennsylvania are no more -than plain farmers, who from their infancy have been accustomed to -little else than following the plough. The laws expressly declare that -there must be, at least, three judges resident in every county; now as -the salary allowed is but a mere trifle, no lawyer would accept of the -office, which of course must be filled from amongst the inhabitants[18], -who are all in a happy state of mediocrity, and on a perfect equality -with each other. The district judge, however, who presides in the -district or circuit, has a larger salary, and is a man of a different -cast. The district or circuit consists of at least three, but not more -than six counties. The county judges, which I have mentioned, are -“judges of the court of common pleas, and by virtue of their offices -also justices of oyer and terminer, and general gaol delivery, for the -trial of capital and other offenders therein.” Any two judges compose -the court of quarter sessions. Under certain regulations, established by -law, the accused party has the power of removing the proceedings into -the supreme court, which has jurisdiction over every part of the state. -This short account of the courts relates only to Pennsylvania: every -state in the union has a separate code of laws for itself, and a -distinct judicature. - -Footnote 18: - - This is also the case in Philadelphia, where we find practising - physicians and surgeons sitting on the bench as judges in a court of - justice. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + X. - -_Of the Country near York.—Of the Soil of the Country on each Side of - the Blue Mountains.—Frederic-town.—Change in the Inhabitants and in - the Country as you proceed towards the Sea.—Numbers of Slaves.—Tobacco - chiefly cultivated.—Inquisitiveness of the People at the - Taverns.—Observations thereon.—Description of the Great Falls of the - Patowmac River.—George Town.—Of the Country between that Place and - Hoe’s Ferry.—Poisonous Vines.—Port Tobacco.—Wretched Appearance of the - Country bordering upon the Ferry.—Slaves neglected.—Passage_ _of the - Patowmac very dangerous.—Fresh Water Oysters.—Landed on a deserted - Part of the Virginian Shore.—Great Hospitality of the Virginians._ - - - Stratford, March. - -IN the neighbourhood of York and Lancaster, the soil consists of a rich, -brown, loamy earth; and if you proceed in a south westerly course, -parallel to the Blue Mountains, you meet with the same kind of soil as -far as Frederic in Maryland. Here it changes gradually to a deep reddish -colour, and continues much the same along the eastern side of the -mountains, all the way down to North Carolina. On crossing over the -mountains, however, directly from Frederic, the same fertile brown soil, -which is common in the neighbourhood of York and Lancaster, is again met -with, and it is found throughout the Shenandoah Valley, and as far down -as the Carolinas, on the west side of the mountains. - -[Sidenote: FACE OF THE COUNTRY.] - -Between York and Frederic in Maryland there are two or three small -towns; viz. Hanover, Petersburgh, and Woodsburg, but there is nothing -worthy of mention in any of them. Frederic contains about seven hundred -houses and five churches, two of which are for German Lutherans, one for -Presbyterians, one for Calvinists, and one for Baptists. It is a -flourishing town, and carries on a brisk inland trade. The arsenal of -the state of Maryland is placed here, the situation being secure and -central. - -From Frederic I proceeded in a southerly course through Montgomery -county in Maryland. In this direction the soil changes to a yellowish -sort of clay mixed with gravel, and continues much the same until you -come to the federal city, beyond which, as I have before mentioned, it -becomes more and more sandy as you approach the sea coast. The change in -the face of the country after leaving Frederic is gradual, but at the -end of a day’s journey a striking difference is perceptible. Instead of -well cultivated fields, green with wheat, such as are met with along -that rich track which runs contiguous to the mountains, large pieces of -land, which have been worn out with the culture of tobacco, are here -seen lying waste, with scarcely an herb to cover them. Instead of the -furrows of the plough, the marks of the hoe appear on the ground; the -fields are overspread with little hillocks for the reception of tobacco -plants, and the eye is assailed in every direction with the unpleasant -sight of gangs of male and female slaves toiling under the harsh -commands of the overseer. The difference in the manners of the -inhabitants is also great. Instead of being amongst the phlegmatic -Germans, a traveller finds himself again in the midst of an inquisitive -and prying set of Americans, to gratify whose curiosity it is always -necessary to devote a certain portion of time after alighting at a -tavern. - -[Sidenote: FALLS OF THE PATOWMAC.] - -A traveller on arriving in America may possibly imagine, that it is the -desire of obtaining useful information which leads the people, wherever -he stops, to accost him; and that the particular enquiries respecting -the object of his pursuits, the place of his abode, and that of his -destination, &c. are made to prepare the way for questions of a more -general nature, and for conversation that may be attended with some -amusement to him; he therefore readily answers them, hoping in return to -gain information about the country through which he passes; but when it -is found that these questions are asked merely through an idle and -impertinent curiosity, and that by far the greater part of the people -who ask them are ignorant, boorish fellows; when it is found that those -who can keep up some little conversation immediately begin to talk upon -politics, and to abuse every country excepting their own; when, lastly, -it is found that the people scarcely ever give satisfactory answers at -first to the enquiries which are made by a stranger respecting their -country, but always hesitate, as if suspicious that he was asking these -questions to procure some local information, in order to enable him to -overreach them in a bargain, or to make some speculation in land to -their injury; the traveller then loses all patience at this disagreeable -and prying disposition, and feels disposed to turn from them with -disgust; still, however, if he wishes to go through the country -peaceably, and without quarrelling at every place where he stops, it is -absolutely necessary to answer some few of their questions. - -Having followed the high way as far as Montgomery court-house, which is -about thirty miles from Frederic, I turned off along a bye road running -through the woods, in order to see the great falls of Patowmac River. -The view of them from the Maryland shore is very pleasing, but not so -much so as that from the opposite side. Having reached the river -therefore close to the falls, I rode along through the woods, with which -its banks are covered, for some distance higher up, to a place where -there was a ferry, and where I crossed into Virginia. From the place -where I landed to the Falls, which is a distance of about three miles, -there is a wild romantic path running along the margin of the river, and -winding at the same time round the base of a high hill covered with -lofty trees and rocks. Near to the shore, almost the whole way, there -are clusters of small islands covered with trees, which suddenly -opposing the rapid course of the stream, form very dangerous eddies, in -which boats are frequently lost when navigated by men who are not active -and careful. On the shore prodigious heaps of white sand are washed up -by the waves, and in many places the path is rendered almost impassable -by piles of large trees, which have been brought down from the upper -country by floods, and drifted together. - -[Sidenote: PORT TOBACCO.] - -The river, at the ferry which I mentioned, is about one mile and a -quarter wide, and it continues much the same breadth as far as the -falls, where it is considerably contracted and confined in its channel -by immense rocks on either side. There also its course is very suddenly -altered, so much so indeed, that below the falls for a short distance it -runs in an opposite direction from what it did above, but soon after it -resumes its former course. The water does not descend perpendicularly, -excepting in one part close to the Virginian shore, where the height is -about thirty feet, but comes rushing down with tremendous impetuosity -over a ledge of rocks in several different falls. The best view of the -cataract is from the top of a pile of rocks about sixty feet above the -level of the water, and which, owing to the bend in the river, is -situated nearly opposite to the falls. The river comes from the right, -then gradually turning, precipitates itself down the falls, and winds -along at the foot of the rocks on which you stand with, great velocity. -The rocks are of a slate colour, and lie in strata; the surface of them -in many places is glossy and sparkling. - -From hence I followed the course of the river downwards as far as George -Town, where I again crossed it; and after passing through the federal -city, proceeded along the Maryland shore of the river to Piscatoway, and -afterwards to Port Tobacco, two small towns situated on creeks of their -own name, which run into the Patowmac. In the neighbourhood of -Piscatoway there are several very fine views of the Virginian shore; -Mount Vernon in particular appears to great advantage. - -I observed here great numbers of the poisonous vines which grow about -the large trees, and are extremely like the common grape vines. If -handled in the morning, when the branches are moist with the dew, they -infallibly raise blisters on the hands, which it is sometimes difficult -to get rid of. - -Port Tobacco contains about eighty houses, most of which are of wood, -and very poor. There is a large English episcopalian church on the -border of the town, built of stone, which formerly was an ornament to -the place, but it is now entirely out of repair; the windows are all -broken, and the road is carried through the church-yard over the graves, -the paling that surrounded it having been torn down. Near the town is -Mount Misery, towards the top of which is a medicinal spring, remarkable -in summer for the coldness of the water. - -[Sidenote: HOE’S FERRY.] - -From Port Tobacco to Hoe’s Ferry, on the Patowmac River, the country is -flat and sandy, and wears a most dreary aspect. Nothing is to be seen -here for miles together but extensive plains, that have been worn out by -the culture of tobacco, overgrown with yellow sedge,[19] and -interspersed with groves of pine and cedar trees, the dark green colour -of which forms a curious contrast with the yellow of the sedge. In the -midst of these plains are the remains of several good houses, which shew -that the country was once very different to what it is now. These were -the houses, most probably, of people who originally settled in Maryland -with Lord Baltimore, to go to decay, as the land around them is worn -out, and the people find it more to their interest to remove to another -part of the country, and clear a piece of rich land, than to attempt to -reclaim these exhausted plains. In consequence of this, the country in -many of the lower parts of Maryland appears as if it had been deserted -by one half of its inhabitants, but which have now been suffered - -Footnote 19: - - This sedge, as it is called, is a sort of coarse grass, so hard that - cattle will not eat it, which springs up spontaneously, in this part - of the country, on the ground that has been left waste; it commonly - grows about two feet high; towards winter it turns yellow, and remains - standing until the ensuing summer, when a new growth displaces that of - the former year. At its first springing up it is of a bright green - colour. - -Such a number of roads in different directions cross over these flats, -upon none of which there is any thing like a direction post, and the -face of a human being is so rarely met with, that it is scarcely -possible for a traveller to find out the direct way at once. Instead of -twelve miles, the distance by the straight road from Port Tobacco to the -ferry, my horse had certainly travelled twice the number before we got -there. The ferry-house was one of those old dilapidated mansions that -formerly was the residence perhaps of some wealthy planter, and at the -time when the fields yielded their rich crops of tobacco would have -afforded some refreshment to the weary traveller; but in the state I -found it, it was the picture of wretchedness and poverty. After having -waited for two hours and a half for my breakfast, the most I could -procure was two eggs, a pint of milk, and a bit of cake bread, scarcely -as big as my hand, and but little better than dough. This I had also to -divide with my servant, who came to inform me, that there was absolutely -nothing to eat in the house but what had been brought to me. I could not -but mention this circumstance to several persons when I got into -Virginia, and many of them informed me, that they had experienced the -same treatment themselves at this house; yet this house had the name of -a tavern. What the white people who inhabited it lived upon I could not -discover, but it was evident that they took care of themselves. As for -the poor slaves, however, of which there were many in the huts adjoining -the tavern, they had a most wretched appearance, and seemed to be half -starved. The men and women were covered with rags, and the children were -running about stark naked. - -[Sidenote: EXCELLENT FISH.] - -After having got into the ferry boat, the man of the house, as if -conscious that he had given me very bad fare, told me that there was a -bank of oysters in the river, close to which it was necessary to pass, -and that if I chose to stop the men would procure abundance of them for -me. The curiosity of getting oysters in fresh water tempted me to stop, -and the men got near a bushel of them in a very few minutes. These -oysters are extremely good when cooked, but very disagreeable eaten raw; -indeed all the oysters found in America, not excepting what are taken at -New York, so close to the ocean, are, in the opinion of most Europeans, -very indifferent and tasteless when raw. The Americans, on their part, -find still greater fault with our oysters, which they say are not fit to -be eat in any shape, because they taste of copper. The Patowmac, as well -as the rest of the rivers in Virginia, abounds with excellent fish of -many different kinds, as sturgeon, shad, roach, herrings, &c. which form -a very principal part of the food of the people living in the -neighbourhood of them. - -The river at the ferry is about three miles wide, and with particular -winds the waves rise very high; in these cases they always tie the -horses, for fear of accidents, before they set out; indeed, with the -small open boats which they make use of, it is what ought always to be -done, for in this country gusts of wind rise suddenly, and frequently -when they are not at all expected: having omitted to take this -precaution, the boat was on the point of being overset two or three -different times as I crossed over. - -On the Virginian shore, opposite to the ferry-house from whence I -sailed, there are several large creeks, which fall into the Patowmac, -and it is impossible to cross these on horseback, without riding thirty -or forty miles up a sandy uninteresting part of the country to the fords -or bridges. As I wished to go beyond these creeks, I therefore hired the -boatmen to carry me ten miles down the Patowmac River in the ferry boat, -past the mouths of them all; this they accordingly did, and in the -afternoon I landed on the beach, not a little pleased at finding that I -had reached the shore without having been under the necessity of -swimming any part of the way, for during the last hour the horses had -not remained quiet for two minutes together, and on one or two -occasions, having got both to the same side of the boat, the trim of it -was very nearly destroyed, and it was with the utmost difficulty that we -prevented it from being overset. - -[Sidenote: VIRGINIANS.] - -The part of the country where I landed appeared to be a perfect -wilderness; no traces of a road or pathway were visible on the loose -white sand, and the cedar and pine trees grew so closely together on all -sides, that it was scarcely possible to see farther forward in any -direction than one hundred yards. Taking a course, however, as nearly as -I could guess, in a direct line from the river up the country, at the -end of an hour I came upon a narrow road, which led to a large old brick -house, somewhat similar to those I had met with on the Maryland shore. -On enquiring here, from two blacks, for a tavern, I was told there was -no such thing in this part of the country; that in the house before me -no part of the family was at home; but that if I rode on a little -farther, I should come to some other gentlemen’s houses, where I could -readily get accommodation. In the course of five or six miles I saw -several more of the same sort of old brick houses, and the evening now -drawing towards a close, I began to feel the necessity of going to some -one of them. I had seen no person for several miles to tell me who any -of the owners were, and I was considering within myself which house I -should visit, when a lively old negro, mounted on a little horse, came -galloping after me. On applying to him for information on the subject, -he took great pains to assure me, that I should be well received at any -one of the houses I might stop at; he said there were no taverns in this -part of the country, and strongly recommended me to proceed under his -guidance to his master’s house, which was but a mile farther on; “Masser -will be so glad to see to you,” added he, “nothing can be like.” Having -been apprized beforehand, that it was customary in Virginia for a -traveller to go without ceremony to a gentleman’s house, when there was -no tavern at hand, I accordingly took the Negro’s advice, and rode to -the dwelling of his master, made him acquainted with my situation, and -begged I might be allowed to put my horses in his stable for the night. -The reception, however, which this gentleman gave me, differed so -materially from what I had been led to expect, that I was happy at -hearing from him, that there was a _good_ tavern at the distance cf two -miles. I apologised for the liberty I had taken, and made the best of my -way to it. Instead of two miles, however, this tavern proved to be about -three times as far off, and when I came to it, I found it to be a most -wretched hovel; but any place was preferable to the house of a man so -thoroughly devoid of hospitality. - -[Sidenote: VIRGINIA.] - -The next day I arrived at this place, the residence of a gentleman, who, -when at Philadelphia, had invited me to pass some time with him whenever -I visited Virginia. Some of the neighbouring gentlemen yesterday dined -here together, and having related to them my adventures on arriving in -Virginia, the whole company expressed the greatest astonishment, and -assured me that it was never known before, in that part of Virginia, -that a stranger had been suffered to go away from a gentleman’s house, -where he stopped, to a tavern, although it was close by. Every one -seemed eager to know the name of the person who had given me such a -reception, and begged me to tell it. I did so, and the Virginians were -satisfied, for the person was a—Scotchman, and had, it seems, removed -from some town or other to the plantation on which I found him but a -short time before. The Virginians in the lower parts of the state are -celebrated for their politeness and hospitality towards strangers; -beyond the mountains there is a great difference in the manners of the -inhabitants. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XI. - -_Of the Northern Neck of Virginia.—First settled by the English.—Houses - built by them remaining.—Disparity of Condition amongst the - Inhabitants.—Estates worked by Negroes.—Condition of the Slaves.—Worse - in the Carolinas.—Lands worn out by Cultivation of Tobacco.—Mode of - cultivating and curing Tobacco.—Houses in Virginia.—Those of Wood - preferred.—Lower Classes of People in Virginia.—Their unhealthy - Appearance._ - - - Stratford, April. - -THIS part of Virginia, situated between the Patowmac and Rappahannock -rivers, is called the Northern Neck, and is remarkable for having been -the birth place of many of the principal characters, which distinguished -themselves in America, during the war, by their great talents, General -Washington at their head. It was here that numbers of English gentlemen, -who migrated when Virginia was a young colony, fixed their residence; -and several of the houses which they built, exactly similar to the old -manor houses in England, are still remaining, particularly in the -counties of Richmond and Westmoreland. Some of these, like the houses in -Maryland, are quite in ruins; others are kept in good repair by the -present occupiers, who live in a style which approaches nearer to that -of English country gentlemen than what is to be met with any where else -on the continent, some other parts of Virginia alone excepted. - -[Sidenote: MANUFACTURES.] - -Amongst the inhabitants here and in the lower parts of Virginia there is -a disparity unknown elsewhere in America, excepting in the large towns. -Instead of the lands being equally divided, immense estates are held by -a few individuals, who derive large incomes from them, whilst the -generality of the people are but in a state of mediocrity. Most of the -men also, who possess these large estates, having received liberal -educations, which the others have not, the distinction between them is -still more observable. I met with several in this neighbourhood, who had -been brought up at the public schools and universities in England, -where, until the unfortunate war which separated the colonies from her, -the young men were very generally educated; and even still a few are -sent there, as the veneration for that country from whence their -ancestors came, and with which they were themselves for a long time -afterwards connected, is by no means yet extinguished. - -There is by no means so great a disparity now, however, amongst the -inhabitants of the Northern Neck, as was formerly, and it is becoming -less and less perceptible every year, many of the large estates having -been divided in consequence of the removal of the proprietors to other -parts of the country that were more healthy, and many more on account of -the present laws of Virginia, which do not permit any one son to inherit -the landed estates of the father to the exclusion of his brothers. - -The principal planters in Virginia have nearly every thing they can want -on their own estates. Amongst their slaves are found taylors, -shoemakers, carpenters, smiths, turners, wheelwrights, weavers, tanners, -&c. I have seen patterns of excellent coarse woollen cloth made in the -country by slaves, and a variety of cotton manufactures, amongst the -rest good nankeen. Cotton grows here extremely well; the plants are -often killed by frost in winter, but they always produce abundantly the -first year in which they are sown. The cotton from which nankeen is made -is of a particular kind, naturally of a yellowish colour. - -[Sidenote: SLAVES.] - -The large estates are managed by stewards and overseers, the proprietors -just amusing themselves with seeing what is going forward. The work is -done wholly by slaves, whose numbers are in this part of the country -more than double that of white persons. The slaves on the large -plantations are in general very well provided for, and treated with -mildness. During three months nearly, that I was in Virginia, but two or -three instances of ill treatment towards them came under my observation. -Their quarters, the name whereby their habitations are called, are -usually situated one or two hundred yards from the dwelling house, which -gives the appearance of a village to the residence of every planter in -Virginia; when the estate, however, is so large as to be divided into -several farms, then separate quarters are attached to the house of the -overseer on each farm. Adjoining their little habitations, the slaves -commonly have small gardens and yards for poultry, which are all their -own property; they have ample time to attend to their own concerns, and -their gardens are generally found well stocked, and their flocks of -poultry numerous. Besides the food they raise for themselves, they are -allowed liberal rations of salted pork and Indian corn. Many of their -little huts are comfortably furnished, and they are themselves, in -general, extremely well clothed. In short, their condition is by no -means so wretched as might be imagined. They are forced to work certain -hours in the day; but in return they are clothed, dieted, and lodged -comfortably, and saved all anxiety about provision for their offspring. -Still, however, let the condition of a slave be made ever so -comfortable, as long as he is conscious of being the property of another -man, who has it in his power to dispose of him according to the dictates -of caprice; as long as he hears people around him talking of the -blessings of liberty, and considers that he is in a state of bondage, it -is not to be supposed that he can feel equally happy with the freeman. -It is immaterial under what form slavery presents itself, whenever it -appears there is ample cause for humanity to weep at the sight, and to -lament that men can be found so forgetful of their own situations, as to -live regardless of the feelings of their fellow creatures. - -With respect to the policy of holding slaves in any country, on account -of the depravity of morals which it necessarily occasions, besides the -many other evil consequences attendant upon it, so much has already been -said by others, that it is needless here to make any comments on the -subject. - -The number of the slaves increases most rapidly, so that there is -scarcely any estate but what is overstocked. This is a circumstance -complained of by every planter, as the maintenance of more than are -requisite for the culture of the estate is attended with great expence. -Motives of humanity deter them from selling the poor creatures, or -turning them adrift from the spot where they have been born and brought -up, in the midst of friends and relations. - -[Sidenote: CULTIVATION.] - -What I have here said, respecting the condition and treatment of slaves, -appertains, it must be remembered, to those only who are upon the large -plantations in Virginia; the lot of such as are unfortunate enough to -fall into the hands of the lower class of white people, and of hard -task-masters in the towns, is very different. In the Carolinas and -Georgia again, slavery presents itself in very different colours from -what it does even in its worst form in Virginia. I am told, that it is -no uncommon thing there, to see gangs of negroes staked at a horse race, -and to see these unfortunate beings bandied about from one set of -drunken gamblers to another for days together. How much to be deprecated -are the laws which suffer such abuses to exist! yet these are the laws -enacted by people who boast of their love of liberty and independence, -and who presume to say, that it is in the breasts of Americans alone -that the blessings of freedom are held in just estimation. - -The Northern Neck, with the exception of some few spots only, is flat -and sandy, and abounds with pine and cedar trees. Some parts of it are -well cultivated, and afford good crops; but these are so intermixed with -extensive tracts of waste land, worn out by the culture of tobacco, and -which are almost destitute of verdure, that on the whole the country has -the appearance of barrenness. - -This is the case wherever tobacco has been made the principal object of -cultivation. It is not, however, so much owing to the great share of -nutriment which the tobacco plant requires, that the land is -impoverished, as to the particular mode of cultivating it, which renders -it necessary for people to be continually walking between the plants -from the moment they are set out, so that the ground about each plant is -left exposed to the burning rays of the sun all the summer, and becomes -at the end of the season a hard beaten pathway. A ruinous system has -prevailed also of working the same piece of land year after year, till -it was totally exhausted; after this it was left neglected, and a fresh -piece of land was cleared, that always produced good crops for one or -two seasons; but this in its turn was worn out and afterwards left -waste. Many of the planters are at length beginning to see the absurdity -of wearing out their lands in this manner, and now raise only one crop -of tobacco upon a piece of new land, then they sow wheat for two years, -and afterwards clover. They put on from twelve to fifteen hundred -bushels of manure per acre at first, which is found to be sufficient -both for the tobacco and wheat; the latter is produced at the rate of -about twenty bushels per acre. - -In some parts of Virginia, the lands left waste in this manner throw up, -in a very short time, a spontaneous growth of pines and cedars; in which -case, being shaded from the powerful influence of the sun, they recover -their former fertility at the end of fifteen or twenty years; but in -other parts many years elapse before any verdure appears upon them. The -trees springing up in this spontaneous manner usually grow very close to -each other; they attain the height of fifteen or twenty feet, perhaps, -in the same number of years; there is, however, but very little sap in -them, and in a short time after they are cut down they decay. - -[Sidenote: TOBACCO PLANTATIONS.] - -Tobacco is raised and manufactured in the following manner: When the -spring is so far advanced that every apprehension of the return of frost -is banished, a convenient spot of ground is chosen, from twenty to one -hundred feet square, whereon they burn prodigious piles of wood, in -order to destroy the weeds and insects. The warm ashes are then dug in -with the earth, and the seed, which is black, and remarkably small, -sown. The whole is next covered over with bushes, to prevent birds and -flies, if possible, from getting to it; but this, in general, proves -very ineffectual; for the plant scarcely appears above ground, when it -is attacked by a large black fly of the beetle kind, which destroys the -leaves. Persons are repeatedly sent to pick off these flies; but -sometimes, notwithstanding all their attention, so much mischief is done -that very few plants are left alive. As I passed through Virginia, I -heard universal complaints of the depredations they had committed; the -beds were almost wholly destroyed. - -As soon as the young plants are sufficiently grown, which is generally -in the beginning of May, they are transplanted into fields, and set out -in hillocks, at the distance of three or four feet from each other. Here -again they have other enemies to contend with; the roots are attacked by -worms, and between the leaves and stem different flies deposit their -eggs, to the infallible ruin of the plant if not quickly removed; it is -absolutely necessary, therefore, as I have said, for persons to be -continually walking between the plants in order to watch, and also to -trim them at the proper periods. The tops are broken off at a certain -height, and the suckers, which spring out between the leaves, are -removed as soon as discovered. According also to the particular kind of -tobacco which the planter wishes to have, the lower, the middle, or the -upper leaves are suffered to remain. The lower leaves grow the largest; -they are also milder, and more inclined to a yellow colour than those -growing towards the top of the plant. - -[Sidenote: TOBACCO WAREHOUSES.] - -When arrived at maturity, which is generally about the month of August, -the plants are cut down, pegs are driven into the stems, and they are -hung up in large houses, built for the purpose, to dry. If the weather -is not favourable for drying the leaves, fires are then lighted, and the -smoke is suffered to circulate between the plants; this is also -sometimes done to give the leaves a browner colour than what they have -naturally. After this they are tied up in bundles of six or seven leaves -each, and thrown in heaps to sweat; then they are again dried. When -sufficiently cured, the bundles are packed, by means of presses, in -hogsheads capable of containing eight hundred or one thousand pounds -weight. The planters send the tobacco thus packed to the nearest -shipping town, where, before exportation, it is examined by an inspector -appointed for the purpose, who gives a certificate to warrant the -shipping of it if it is sound and merchantable, if not, he sends it back -to the owner. Some of the warehouses to which the tobacco is sent for -inspection are very extensive, and skilful merchants can accurately tell -the quality of the tobacco from knowing the warehouse at which it has -been inspected[20]. Where the roads are good and dry, tobacco is sent to -the warehouses in a singular manner: Two large pins of wood are driven -into either end of the hogshead by way of axles; a pair of shafts, made -for the purpose, are attached to these, and the hogshead is thus drawn -along by one or two horses; when this is done great care is taken to -have the hoops very strong. - -Footnote 20: - - By the laws of America, no produce which has undergone any sort of - manufacture, as flour, potash, tobacco, rice, &c. can be exported - without inspection, nor even put into a boat to be conveyed down a - river to a sea-port. The inspectors are all sworn, are paid by the - states, and not suffered to take fees from any individual. This is a - most politic measure; for as none but the best of each article can be - sent out of the country, it enhances the price of American produce in - foreign markets, and increases the demand. - -Tobacco is not near so much cultivated now as it was formerly, the great -demand for wheat having induced most of the planters to raise that grain -in preference. Those who raise tobacco and Indian corn are called -planters, and those who cultivate small grain, farmers. - -Though many of the houses in the Northern Neck are built, as I have -said, of brick and stone, in the style of the old English manor houses, -yet the greater number there, and throughout Virginia, are of wood; -amongst which are all those that have been built of late years. This is -chiefly owing to a prevailing, though absurd opinion, that wooden houses -are the healthiest, because the inside walls never appear damp, like -those of brick and stone, in rainy weather. In front of every house is a -porch or pent-house, commonly extending the whole length of the -building; very often there is one also in the rear, and sometimes all -round. These porches afford an agreeable shade from the sun during -summer. The hall, or saloon as it is called, is always a favourite -apartment, during the hot weather, in a Virginian house, on account of -the draught of air through it, and it is usually furnished similar to a -parlour, with sofas, &c. - -[Sidenote: VIRGINIAN WOMEN.] - -The common people in the lower parts of Virginia have very sallow -complexions, owing to the burning rays of the sun in summer, and the -bilious complaints to which they are subject in the fall of the year. -The women are far from being comely, and the dresses, which they wear -out of doors to guard them from the sun, make them appear still more -ugly than nature has formed them. There is a kind of bonnet very -commonly worn, which, in particular, disfigures them amazingly; it is -made with a caul, fitting close on the back part of the head, and a -front stiffened with small pieces of cane, which projects nearly two -feet from the head in a horizontal direction. To look at a person at one -side, it is necessary for a woman wearing a bonnet of this kind to turn -her whole body round. - -In the upper parts of the country, towards the mountains, the women are -totally different, having a healthy comely appearance. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XII. - -_Town of Tappahannock.—Rappahannock River.—Sharks found in it.—Country - bordering upon Urbanna.—Fires common in the Woods.—Manner of stopping - their dreadful Progress.—Mode of getting Turpentine from - Trees.—Gloucester.—York Town.—Remains of the Fortifications erected - here during the American War.—Houses shattered by Balls still - remaining.—Cave in the Bank of the River.—Williamsburgh.—State House - in Ruins.—Statue of Lord Bottetourt.—College of William and - Mary.—Condition of the Students._ - - - Williamsburgh, April. - -[Sidenote: SNIPES.] - - -SINCE I last wrote, the greater part of my time has been spent at the -houses of different gentlemen in the Northern Neck. Four days ago I -crossed the Rappahannock River, which bounds the Northern Neck on one -side, to a small town called Tappahannock, or Hobb’s Hole, containing -about one hundred houses. Before the war this town was in a much more -flourishing state than at present; that unfortunate contest ruined the -trade of this little place, as it did that of most of the sea-port towns -in Virginia. The Rappahannock is about three quarters of a mile wide -opposite the town, which is seventy miles above its mouth. Sharks are -very often seen in this river. What is very remarkable, the fish are all -found on the side of the river next to the town. - -From Tappahannock to Urbanna, another small town on the Rappahannock -River, situated about twenty-five miles lower down, the country wears -but a poor aspect. - -The road, which is level and very sandy, runs through woods for miles -together. The habitations that are seen from it are but few, and they -are of the poorest description. The woods chiefly consist of black oak, -pine, and cedar trees, which grow on land of the worst quality only. - -On this road there are many creeks to be crossed, which empty themselves -into the Rappahannock River, in the neighbourhood of which there are -extensive marshes, that render the adjacent country, as may be supposed, -very unhealthy. Such a quantity of snipes are seen in these marshes -continually, that it would be hardly possible to fire a gun in a -horizontal direction, and not kill many at one shot. - -[Sidenote: FIRES.] - -As I passed through this part of the country, I observed many traces of -fires in the woods, which are frequent, it seems, in the spring of the -year. They usually proceed from the negligence of people who are burning -brushwood to clear the lands, and considering how often they happen, it -is wonderful that they are not attended with more serious consequences -than commonly follow. I was a witness myself to one of these fires, that -happened in the Northern Neck. The day had been remarkably serene, and -appearing favourable for the purpose, large quantities of brushwood had -been fired in different places; in the afternoon, however, it became -sultry, and streams of hot air were perceptible now and then, the usual -tokens of a gust. About five o’clock, the horizon towards the north -became dark, and a terrible whirlwind arose. I was standing with some -gentlemen on an eminence at the time, and perceived it gradually -advancing. It carried with it a cloud of dust, dried leaves, and pieces -of rotten wood, and in many places, as it came along, it levelled the -fence rails and unroofed the sheds for the cattle. We made every -endeavour, but in vain, to get to a place of shelter; in the course of -two minutes the whirlwind overtook us; the shock was violent; it was -hardly possible to stand, and difficult to breathe; the whirlwind passed -over in about three minutes, but a storm, accompanied by heavy thunder -and lightning, succeeded, which lasted for more than half an hour. On -looking round immediately after the whirlwind had passed, a prodigious -column of fire now appeared in a part of the wood where some brushwood -had been burning; in many places the flames rose considerably above the -summit of the trees, which were of a large growth. It was a tremendous, -and at the same time sublime sight. The negroes on the surrounding -plantations were all assembled with their hoes, and watches were -stationed at every corner to give the alarm if the fire appeared -elsewhere, lest the conflagration should become general. To one -plantation a spark was carried by the wind more than half a mile; -happily, however, a torrent of rain in a short time afterwards came -pouring down, and enabled the people to extinguish the flames in every -quarter. - -When these fires do not receive a timely check, they sometimes increase -to a most alarming height; and if the grass and dead leaves happen to be -very dry, and the wind brisk, proceed with so great velocity that the -swiftest runners are often overtaken in endeavouring to escape from the -flames. Indeed I have met with people, on whose veracity the greatest -dependance might be placed, that have assured me they have found it a -difficult task, at times, to get out of the reach of them, though -mounted on good horses. - -There is but one mode of stopping a fire of this kind, which makes such -a rapid progress along the ground. A number of other fires are kindled -at some distance a head of that which they wish to extinguish, so as to -form a line across the course, which, from the direction of the wind, it -is likely to take. These are carefully watched by a sufficient number of -men furnished with hoes and rakes, and they are prevented from -spreading, except on that side which is towards the large fire, a matter -easily accomplished when attended to in the beginning. Thus the fires in -a few minutes meet, and of consequence they must cease, as there is -nothing left to feed them, the grass and leaves being burnt on all -sides. In general there is but very little brushwood in the woods of -America, so that these fires chiefly run along the ground; the trees, -however, are often scorched, but it is very rare for any of them to be -entirely consumed. - -[Sidenote: GLOUCESTER AND YORK.] - -The country between Urbanna and Gloucester, a town situated upon York -River, is neither so sandy nor so flat as that bordering upon the -Rappahannock. The trees, chiefly pines, are of a very large size, and -afford abundance of turpentine, which is extracted from them in great -quantities by the inhabitants, principally, however, for home -consumption. The turpentine is got by cutting a large gash in the tree, -and setting a trough underneath to receive the resinous matter distilled -from the wound. The trees thus drained last but a short time after they -are cut down. In this neighbourhood there are numbers of ponds or small -lakes, surrounded by woods, along some of which the views are very -pleasing. From most of them are falls of water into some creek or river, -which afford excellent seats for mills. - -Gloucester contains only ten or twelve houses; it is situated on a neck -of land nearly opposite to the town of York, which is at the other side -of the river. There are remains here of one or two redoubts thrown up -during the war. The river between the two places is about one mile and a -half wide, and affords four fathom and a half of water. - -The town of York consists of about seventy houses, an episcopalian -church, and a gaol. It is not now more than one third of the size it was -before the war, and it does not appear likely soon to recover its former -flourishing state. Great quantities of tobacco were formerly inspected -here; very little, however, is now raised in the neighbourhood, the -people having got into a habit of cultivating wheat in preference. The -little that is sent for inspection is reckoned to be of the very best -quality, and is all engaged for the London market. - -York is remarkable for having been the place where Lord Cornwallis -surrendered his army to the combined forces of the Americans and French. -A few of the redoubts, which were erected by each army, are still -remaining, but the principal fortifications are almost quite -obliterated; the plough has passed over some of them, and groves of pine -trees sprung up about others, though, during the siege, every tree near -the town was destroyed. The first and second parallels can just be -traced, when pointed out by a person acquainted with them in a more -perfect state. - -[Sidenote: YORK TOWN.] - -In the town the houses bear evident marks of the siege, and the -inhabitants will not, on any account, suffer the holes perforated by the -cannon balls to be repaired on the outside. There is one house in -particular, which stands in the skirt of the town, that is in a most -shattered condition. It was the habitation of a Mr. Neilson, a secretary -under the regal government, and was made the head quarters of Lord -Cornwallis when he first came to the town; but it stood so much exposed, -and afforded so good a mark to the enemy, that he was soon forced to -quit it. Neilson, however, it seems, was determined to stay there till -the last, and absolutely remained till his negro servant, the only -person that would live with him in such a house, had his brains dashed -out by a cannon shot while he stood by his side; he then thought it time -to retire, but the house was still continually fired at, as if it had -been head quarters. The walls and roof are pierced in innumerable -places, and at one corner a large piece of the wall is torn away; in -this state, however, it is still inhabited in one room by some person or -other equally fanciful as the old secretary. There are trenches thrown -up round it, and on every side are deep hollows made by the bombs that -fell near it. Till within a year or two the broken shells themselves -remained; but the New England men that traded to York finding they would -sell well as old iron, dug them up, and carried them away in their -ships. - -The banks of the river, where the town stands, are high and -inaccessible, excepting in a few places; the principal part of the town -is built on the top of them; a few fishing huts and storehouses merely -stand at the bottom. A cave is shewn here in the banks, described by the -people as having been the place of head quarters during the siege, after -the cannonade of the enemy became warm; but in reality it was formed and -hung with green baize for a lady, either the wife or acquaintance of an -officer, who was terrified with the idea of remaining in the town, and -died of fright after her removal down to the cave. - -Twelve miles from York, to the westward, stands Williamsburgh, formerly -the seat of government in Virginia. Richmond was fixed upon during the -war as a more secure place, being farther removed from the sea coast, -and not so much exposed to depredations if an enemy were to land -unexpectedly. Richmond also had the advantage of being situated at the -head of a navigable river, and was therefore likely to increase to a -size which the other never could attain. It is wonderful, indeed, what -could have induced people to fix upon the spot where Williamsburgh -stands for a town, in the middle of a plain, and one mile and a half -removed from any navigable stream, when there were so many noble rivers -in the neighbourhood. - -[Sidenote: WILLIAMSBURGH COLLEGE.] - -The town consists of one principal street, and two others which run -parallel to it. At one end of the main street stands the college, and at -the other end the old capitol or state house, a capacious building of -brick, now crumbling to pieces from negligence. The houses around it are -mostly uninhabited, and present a melancholy picture. In the hall of the -capitol stands a maimed statue of lord Botetourt, one of the regal -governors of Virginia, erected at the public expence, in memory of his -lordship’s equitable and popular administration. During the war, when -party rage was at its highest pitch, and every thing pertaining to -royalty obnoxious, the head and one arm of the statue were knocked off; -it now remains quite exposed, and is more and more defaced every day. -Whether the motto, “_Resurgo rege favente_,” inscribed under the coat of -arms, did or did not help to bring upon it its present fate, I cannot -pretend to say; as it is, it certainly remains a monument of the -extinction of monarchical power in America. - -The college of William and Mary, as it is still called, stands at the -opposite end of the main street; it is a heavy pile, which bears, as Mr. -Jefferson, I think, says, “a very close resemblance to a large brick -kiln, excepting that it has a roof.” The students were about thirty in -number when I was there: from their appearance one would imagine that -the seminary ought rather to be termed a grammar school than a college; -yet I understand the visitors, since the present revolution, finding it -full of young boys just learning the rudiments of Greek and Latin, a -circumstance which consequently deterred others more advanced from going -there, dropped the professorships for these two languages, and -established others in their place. The professorships, as they now -stand, are for law, medicine, natural and moral philosophy, mathematics, -and modern languages. The bishop of Virginia is president of the -college, and has apartments in the buildings. Half a dozen or more of -the students, the eldest about twelve years old, dined at his table one -day that I was there; some were without shoes or stockings, others -without coats. During dinner they constantly rose to help themselves at -the side board. A couple of dishes of salted meat, and some oyster soup, -formed the whole of the dinner. I only mention this, as it may convey -some little idea of American colleges and American dignitaries. - -The episcopalian church, the only one in the place, stands in the middle -of the main street; it is much out of repair. On either side of it is an -extensive green, surrounded with neat looking houses, which bring to -mind an English village. - -The town contains about twelve hundred inhabitants, and the society in -it is thought to be more extensive and more genteel at the same time -than what is to be met with in any other place of its size in America. -No manufactures are carried on here, and scarcely any trade. - -There is an hospital here for lunatics, but it does not appear to be -well regulated. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XIII. - -_Hampton.—Ferry to Norfolk.—Danger in crossing the numerous Ferries in - Virginia.—Norfolk.—Laws of Virginia injurious to the Trading - Interest.—Streets narrow and dirty in Norfolk.—Yellow Fever - there.—Observations on this Disorder.—Violent Party Spirit amongst the - Inhabitants.—Few Churches in Virginia.—Several in Ruins.—Private Grave - Yards._ - - - Norfolk, April. - -FROM Williamsburgh to Hampton the country is flat and uninteresting. -Hampton is a small town, situated at the head of a bay, near the mouth -of James River, which contains about thirty houses and an episcopalian -church. A few sea boats are annually built here; and corn and lumber are -exported annually to the value of about forty-two thousand dollars. It -is a dirty disagreeable place, always infested by a shocking stench from -a muddy shore when the tide is out. - -From this town there is a regular ferry to Norfolk, across Hampton -roads, eighteen miles over. I was forced to leave my horses here behind -me for several days, as all the flats belonging to the place had been -sent up a creek some miles for staves, &c. and they had no other method -of getting horses into the ferry boats, which were too large to come -close into shore, excepting by carrying them out in these flats, and -then making them leap on board. It is a most irksome piece of business -to cross the ferries in Virginia; there is not one in six where the -boats are good and well manned, and it is necessary to employ great -circumspection in order to guard against accidents, which are but too -common. As I passed along I heard of numberless recent instances of -horses being drowned, killed, and having their legs broken, by getting -in and out of the boats. - -Norfolk stands nearly at the mouth of the eastern branch of Elizabeth -River, the most southern of those which empty themselves into the -Chesapeak Bay. It is the largest commercial town in Virginia, and -carries on a flourishing trade to the West Indies. The exports consist -principally of tobacco, flour, and corn, and various kinds of lumber; of -the latter it derives an inexhaustible supply from the Dismal Swamp, -immediately in the neighbourhood. - -[Sidenote: NORFOLK.] - -Norfolk would be a place of much greater trade than it is at present, -were it not for the impolicy of some laws which have existed in the -state of Virginia. One of these laws, so injurious to commerce, was -passed during the war. By this law it was enacted, that all merchants -and planters in Virginia, who owed money to British merchants, should be -exonerated from their debts if they paid the money due into the public -treasury instead of sending it to Great Britain; and all such as stood -indebted were invited to come forward, and give their money in this -manner, towards the support of the contest in which America was then -engaged. - -The treasury at first did not become much richer in consequence of this -law; for the Virginian debtor, individually, could gain nothing by -paying the money that he owed into the treasury, as he had to pay the -full sum which was due to the British merchant; on the contrary, he -might lose considerably: his credit would be ruined in the eyes of the -British merchant by such a measure, and it would be a great impediment -to the renewal of a commercial intercourse between them after the -conclusion of the war. - -However, when the continental paper money became so much depreciated, -that one hundred paper dollars were not worth one in silver, many of the -people, who stood deeply indebted to the merchants in Great Britain, -began to look upon the measure in a different point of view; they now -saw a positive advantage in paying their debts into the treasury in -these paper dollars, which were a legal tender; accordingly they did so, -and in consequence were exonerated of their debts by the laws of their -country, though in reality they had not paid more than one hundredth -part of them. In vain did the British merchant sue for his money when -hostilities were terminated; he could obtain no redress in any court of -justice in Virginia. Thus juggled out of his property he naturally -became distrustful of the Virginians; he refused to trade with them on -the same terms as with the people of the other states, and the -Virginians have consequently reaped the fruits of their very -dishonourable conduct[21]. - -Footnote 21: - - In February 1796, this nefarious business was at last brought before - the supreme court of the United States in Philadelphia, by the agents - of the British merchants, and the decision of the judges was such as - redounded to their honour; for, they declared that these debts should - all be paid over again, bona fide, to the British merchant. - -[Sidenote: IMPOLITIC LAWS.] - -Another law, baneful in the highest degree to the trading interest, is -one which renders all landed property inviolable. This law has induced -numbers to run into debt; and as long as it exists foreigners will be -cautious of giving credit to a large amount to men who, if they chuse to -purchase a tract of land with the goods or money entrusted to their -care, may sit down upon it securely, out of the reach of all their -creditors, under protection of the laws of the country. Owing to this -law they have not yet been enabled to get a bank established in Norfolk, -though it would be of the utmost importance to the traders. The -directors of the bank of the United States have always peremptorily -refused to let a branch of it be fixed in any part of Virginia whilst -this law remains. In Boston, New York, Baltimore, Charleston, &c. there -are branches of the bank of the United States, besides other banks, -established under the sanction of the state legislature. - -Repeated attempts have been made in the state assembly to get this last -mentioned law repealed, but they have all proved ineffectual. The -debates have been very warm on the business, and the names of the -majority, who voted for the continuation of it, have been published, to -expose them if possible to infamy; but so many have sheltered themselves -under its sanction, and so many still find an interest in its -continuance, that it is not likely to be speedily repealed. - -The houses in Norfolk are about five hundred in number; by far the -greater part of them are of wood, and but meanly built. These have all -been erected since the year 1776, when the town was totally destroyed by -fire, by the order of Lord Dunmore, then regal governor of Virginia. The -losses sustained on that occasion were estimated at £.300,000 sterling. -Towards the harbour the streets are narrow and irregular; in the other -parts of the town they are tolerably wide; none of them are paved, and -all are filthy; indeed, in the hot months of summer, the stench that -proceeds from some of them is horrid. That people can be thus -inattentive to cleanliness, which is so conducive to health, and in a -town where a sixth part of the people died in one year of a pestilential -disorder, is most wonderful!![22] - -Footnote 22: - - The yellow fever, which has committed such dreadful ravages of late - years in America, is certainly to be considered as a sort of plague. - It first appeared at Philadelphia in the year 1793; in 1794 it - appeared at Baltimore; in 1795, at New York and Norfolk; and in 1796, - though the matter was hushed up as much as possible, in order to - prevent an alarm, similar to that which had injured the city so much - the preceding year, yet in New York a far greater number of deaths - than usual were heard of during the summer and autumn, strongly - supposed to have been occasioned by the same malignant disorder. - - The accounts given of the calamitous consequences attendant upon it, - in these different places, are all much alike, and nearly similar to - those given of the plague:—The people dying suddenly, and under the - most shocking circumstances—such as were well flying away—the sick - abandoned, and perishing for want of common necessaries—the dead - buried in heaps together without any ceremony—charity at an end—the - ties of friendship and consanguinity disregarded by many—others, on - the contrary, nobly coming forward, and at the hazard of their own - lives doing all in their power to relieve their fellow citizens, and - avert the general woe.——At Philadelphia, in the space of about three - months, no less than four thousand inhabitants were swept off by this - dreadful malady, a number, at that time, amounting to about one tenth - of the whole. Baltimore and New York did not suffer so severely; but - at Norfolk, which is computed to contain about three thousand people, - no less than five hundred fell victims to it. - - The disorder has been treated very differently by different - physicians, and as some few have survived under each system that has - been tried, no general one has yet been adopted. I was told, however, - by several people in Norfolk, who resided in the most sickly part of - the town during the whole time the fever lasted, that as a - preventative medicine, a strong mercurial purge was very generally - administered, and afterwards Peruvian bark; and that few of those who - had taken this medicine were attacked by the fever. All however that - can be done by medicine to stop the progress of the disorder, when it - has broke out in a town, seems to be of no very great effect; for as - long as the excessive hot weather lasts the fever rages, but it - regularly disappears on the approach of cold weather. With regard to - its origin there have been also various opinions; some have contended - that it was imported into every place where it appeared from the West - Indies; others, that it was generated in the country. These opinions - have been ably supported on either side of the question by medical - men, who resided at the different places where the fever has appeared. - There are a few notorious circumstances, however, which lead me, as an - individual, to think that the fever has been generated on the American - continent. In the first place, the fever has always broken out in - those parts of towns which were most closely built, and where the - streets have been suffered through negligence to remain foul and - nasty; in the second place, it has regularly broken out during the - hottest time of the year, in the months of July and August, when the - air on the American coast is for the most part stagnant and sultry, - and when vegetable and animal matter becomes putrid in an incredible - short space of time; thirdly, numbers of people died of the disorder - in New York, in the year 1796, notwithstanding that every West Indian - vessel which entered the port that season was examined by the health - officer, a regular bred physician, and that every one suspected was - obliged to perform quarantine. The people in New York are so fully - persuaded that the fever originates in America from putrid matter, - that they have stopped up one or two docks, which were receptacles for - the filth of the neighbourhood, and which contaminated the air when - the tide was out. - -[Sidenote: YELLOW FEVER.] - -Amongst the inhabitants are great numbers of Scotch and French. The -latter are almost entirely from the West Indies, and principally from -St. Domingo. In such prodigious numbers did they flock over after the -British forces had got footing in the French islands, that between two -and three thousand were in Norfolk at one time; most of them, however, -afterwards dispersed themselves throughout different parts of the -country; those who staid in the town opened little shops of different -kinds, and amongst them I found many who had been in affluent -circumstances before they were driven from their homes. - -[Sidenote: GRAVE YARDS.] - -A strong party spirit has always been prevalent amongst the American -inhabitants of this town; so much so that a few years ago, when some -English and French vessels of war were lying in Hampton roads, and the -sailors, from each, on shore, the whole people were up and ready to join -them, on the one side or the other, in open contest; but the mayor drew -out the militia, and sent them to their respective homes. - -Here are two churches, one for episcopalians, the other for methodists. -In the former, service is not performed more than once in two or three -weeks, and very little regard is paid by the people in general to -Sunday. Indeed, throughout the lower parts of Virginia, that is, between -the mountains and the sea, the people have scarcely any sense of -religion, and in the country parts the churches are all falling into -decay. As I rode along, I scarcely observed one that was not in a -ruinous condition, with the windows broken, and doors dropping off the -hinges, and lying open to the pigs and cattle wandering about the woods; -yet many of these were not past repair. The churches in Virginia, -excepting such as are in towns, stand for the most part in the woods, -retired from any houses, and it does not appear that any persons are -appointed to pay the smallest attention to them. - -A custom prevails in Norfolk, of private individuals holding grave -yards, which are looked upon as a very lucrative kind of property, the -owners receiving considerable fees annually for giving permission to -people to bury their dead in them. It is very common also to see, in the -large plantations in Virginia, and not far from the dwelling house, -cemeteries walled in, where the people of the family are all buried. -These cemeteries are generally built adjoining the garden. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XIV. - -_Description of Dismal Swamp.—Wild Men found in it.—Bears, Wolves, - &c.—Country between Swamp and Richmond.—Mode of making Tar and - Pitch.—Poor Soil.—Wretched Taverns.—Corn Bread.—Difficulty of getting - Food for Horses.—Petersburgh.—Horse Races there.—Description of - Virginian Horses.—Stile of Riding in America.—Description of Richmond, - Capital of Virginia.—Singular Bridge across James River.—State - House.—Falls of James River.—Gambling common in Richmond.—Lower - Classes of People very quarrelsome.—Their Mode of Fighting.—Gouging._ - - - Richmond, May. - -[Sidenote: GREAT SWAMP.] - - -FROM Norfolk I went to look at the great Dismal Swamp, which commences -at the distance of nine miles from the town, and extends into North -Carolina, occupying in the whole, about one hundred and fifty thousand -acres. This great tract is entirely covered with trees; juniper and -cypress trees grow where there is most moisture, and on the dry parts, -white and red oaks and a variety of pines. - -These trees grow to a most enormous size, and between them the brushwood -springs up so thick that the swamp in many parts is absolutely -impervious. In this respect it differs totally from the common woods in -the country. It abounds also with cane reeds, and with long rich grass, -upon which cattle feed with great avidity, and become fat in a very -short space of time; the canes, indeed, are considered to be the very -best green food that can be given to them. The people who live on the -borders of the swamp drive all their cattle into it to feed; care -however is taken to train them to come back regularly to the farms every -night by themselves, otherwise it would be impossible to find them. This -is effected by turning into the swamp with them, for the first few weeks -they are sent thither to feed, two or three old milch cows accustomed to -the place, round whose necks are fastened small bells. The cows come -back every evening to be milked; the rest of the cattle herd with these, -following the noise of the bells, and when they return to the farm a -handful of salt, or something of which they are equally fond, is given -to each as an inducement for them to return again. In a short time the -cattle become familiar with the place, and having been accustomed from -the first day to return, they regularly walk to the farms every evening. - -In the interior parts of the swamp large herds of wild cattle are found, -most probably originally lost on being turned in to feed. Bears, wolves, -deer, and other wild indigenous animals are also met with there. Stories -are common in the neighbourhood of wild men having been found in it, who -were lost, it is supposed, in the swamp when children. - -[Sidenote: CANAL.] - -The swamp varies very much in different parts; in some the surface of it -is quite dry, and firm enough to bear a horse; in others it is -overflowed with water; and elsewhere so miry that a man would sink up to -his neck if he attempted to walk upon it; in the driest part, if a -trench is cut only a few feet deep, the water gushes in, and it is -filled immediately. Where the canal to connect the water of Albemarle -Sound with Norfolk is cut, the water in many places flows in from the -sides, at the depth of three feet from the surface, in large streams, -without intermission; in its colour it exactly resembles brandy, which -is supposed to be occasioned by the roots of the juniper trees; it is -perfectly clear however, and by no means unpalatable; it is said to -possess a diuretic quality, and the people in the neighbourhood, who -think it very wholesome, prefer it to any other. Certainly there is -something very uncommon in the nature of this swamp, for the people -living upon the borders of it do not suffer by fever and ague, or -bilious complaints, as is generally the case with those resident in the -neighbourhood of other swamps and marshes. Whether it is the medicinal -quality of the water, however, which keeps them in better health or not, -I do not pretend to determine. - -As the Dismal Swamp lies so very near to Norfolk, where there is a -constant demand for shingles, staves, &c. for exportation, and as the -very best of these different articles are made from the trees growing -upon the swamp, it of course becomes a very valuable species of -property. The canal which is now cutting through it will also enhance -its value, as when it is completed, lumber can then be readily sent from -the remotest parts. The more southern parts of it, when cleared, answer -uncommonly well for the culture of rice; but in the neighbourhood of -Norfolk, as far as ten feet deep from the surface, there seems to be -nothing but roots and fibres of different herbs mixed with a whitish -sand, which would not answer for the purpose, as rice requires a very -rich soil. The trees, however, that grow upon it, are a most profitable -crop, and instead of cutting them all down promiscuously, as commonly is -done, they only fell such as have attained a large size, by which means -they have a continued succession for the manufacture of those articles I -mentioned. Eighty thousand acres of the swamp are the property of a -company incorporated under the title of “The Dismal Swamp Company.” -Before the war broke out a large number of negroes was constantly -employed by the company in cutting and manufacturing staves, &c. and -their affairs were going on very prosperously; but at the time that -Norfolk was burnt they lost all their negroes, and very little has been -done by them since. The lumber that is now sent to Norfolk is taken -principally off those parts of the swamp which are private property. - -[Sidenote: ACCOMMODATION.] - -From the Dismal Swamp to Richmond, a distance of about one hundred and -forty miles, along the south side of James River, the country is flat -and sandy, and for miles together entirely covered with pine trees. In -Nansemonde county, bordering on the Swamp, the soil is so poor that but -very little corn or grain is raised; it answers well however for peach -orchards, which are found to be very profitable. From the peaches they -make brandy, and when properly matured it is an excellent liquor, and -much esteemed; they give it a very delicious flavour in this part of the -country by infusing dried pears in it. Spirit and water is the universal -beverage throughout Virginia. They also make considerable quantities of -tar and pitch from the pine trees. For this purpose a sort of pit is -dug, in which they burn large piles of the trees. The tar runs out, and -is deposited at the bottom of the pit, from whence it is taken, cleared -of the bits of charcoal that may be mixed with it and put into barrels. -The tar, inspissated by boiling, makes pitch. - -The accommodation at the taverns along this road I found most wretched; -nothing was to be had but rancid fish, fat salt pork, and bread made of -Indian corn. For this indifferent fare also I had to wait oftentimes an -hour or two. Indian corn bread, if well made, is tolerably good, but -very few people can relish it on the first trial; it is a coarse, strong -kind of bread, which has something of the taste of that made from oats. -The best way of preparing it is in cakes; the large loaves made of it -are always like dough in the middle. There is a dish also which they -make of Indian corn, very common in Virginia and Maryland, called -“hominy.” It consists of pounded Indian corn and beans boiled together -with milk till the whole mass becomes firm. This is eat, either hot or -cold, with bacon, or with other meat. - -As for my horses, they were almost starved. Hay is scarcely ever made -use of in this part of the country, but in place of it they feed their -cattle upon fodder, that is, the leaves of the Indian corn plant. Not a -bit of fodder, however, was to be had on the whole road from Norfolk to -Richmond, excepting at two places; and the season having been remarkably -dry, the little grass that had sprung up had been eat down every where -by the cattle in the country. Oats were not to be had on any terms; and -Indian corn was so scarce, that I had frequently to send to one or two -different houses before I could get even sufficient to give one feed -each to my horses. The people in the country endeavoured to account for -this scarcity from the badness of the harvest the preceding year; but -the fact, I believe, was, that corn for exportation having been in great -demand, and a most enormous price offered for it, the people had been -tempted to dispose of a great deal more than they could well spare. Each -person was eager to sell his own corn to such advantage, and depended -upon getting supplied by his neighbour, so that they were all reduced to -want. - -[Sidenote: HORSE RACING.] - -Petersburgh stands at the head of the navigable part of Appamatox River, -and is the only place of consequence south of James River, between -Norfolk and Richmond. The rest of the towns, which are but very small, -seem to be fast on the decline, and present a miserable and melancholy -appearance. The houses in Petersburgh amount to about three hundred; -they are built without any regularity. The people who inhabit them are -mostly foreigners; ten families are not to be found in the town that -have been born in it. A very flourishing trade is carried on in this -place. About two thousand four hundred hogsheads of tobacco are -inspected annually at the warehouses; and at the falls of the Appamatox -River, at the upper end of the town, are some of the best flour mills in -the state. - -Great crowds were assembled at this place, as I passed through, -attracted to it by the horse races, which take place four or five times -in the year. Horse racing is a favourite amusement in Virginia; and it -is carried on with spirit in different parts of the state. The best bred -horses which they have are imported from England; but still some of -those raised at home are very good. They usually run for purses made up -by subscription. The only particular circumstance in their mode of -carrying on their races in Virginia is, that they always run to the -left; the horses are commonly rode by negro boys, some of whom are -really good jockies. - -[Sidenote: RICHMOND.] - -The horses in common use in Virginia are all of a light description, -chiefly adapted for the saddle; some of them are handsome, but they are -for the most part spoiled by the false gaits which they are taught. The -Virginians are wretched horsemen, as indeed are all the Americans I ever -met with, excepting some few in the neighbourhood of New York. They sit -with their toes just under the horse’s nose, their stirrups being left -extremely long, and the saddle put about three or four inches forward on -the mane. As for the management of the reins, it is what they have no -conception of. A trot is odious to them, and they express the utmost -astonishment at a person who can like that uneasy gait, as they call it. -The favourite gaits which all their horses are taught, are a pace and a -_wrack_. In the first, the animal moves his two feet on one side at the -same time, and gets on with a sort of shuffling motion, being unable to -spring from the ground on these two feet as in a trot. We should call -this an unnatural gait, as none of our horses would ever move in that -manner without a rider; but the Americans insist upon it that it is -otherwise, because many of their foals pace as soon as born. These kind -of horses are called “natural pacers,” and it is a matter of the utmost -difficulty to make them move in any other manner but it is not one horse -in five hundred that would pace without being taught. In the wrack, the -horse gallops with his fore feet, and trots with those behind. This is a -gait equally devoid of grace with the other, and equally contrary to -nature; it is very fatiguing also to the horse; but the Virginian finds -it more conducive to his ease than a fair gallop, and this circumstance -banishes every other consideration. - -The people in this part of the country, bordering upon James River, are -extremely fond of an entertainment which they call a barbacue. It -consists in a large party meeting together, either under some trees, or -in a house, to partake of a sturgeon or pig roasted in the open air, on -a sort of hurdle, over a slow fire; this, however, is an entertainment -chiefly confined to the lower ranks, and, like most others of the same -nature, it generally ends in intoxication. - -Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is situated immediately below the -falls of James River, on the north side. The river opposite to the town -is about four hundred yards wide, and is crossed by means of two -bridges, which are separated by an island that lies nearly in the middle -of the river. The bridge, leading from the south shore to the island, is -built upon fifteen large flat bottomed boats, kept stationary in the -river by strong chains and anchors. The bows of them, which are very -sharp, are put against the stream, and fore and aft there is a strong -beam, upon which the piers of the bridge rest. Between the island and -the town, the water being shallower, the bridge is built upon piers -formed of square casements of logs filled with stones. To this there is -no railing, and the boards with which it is covered are so loose, that -it is dangerous to ride a horse across it that is not accustomed to it. -The bridges thrown across this river, opposite the town, have repeatedly -been carried away; it is thought idle, therefore, to go to the expence -of a better one than what exists at present. The strongest stone bridge -could hardly resist the bodies of ice that are hurried down the falls by -the floods on the breaking up of a severe winter. - -[Sidenote: STATEHOUSE.] - -Though the houses in Richmond are not more than seven hundred in number, -yet they extend nearly one mile and a half along the banks of the river. -The lower part of the town, according to the course of the river, is -built close to the water, and opposite to it lies the shipping; this is -connected with the upper town by a long street, which runs parallel to -the course of the river, about fifty yards removed from the banks. The -situation of the upper town is very pleasing; it stands on an elevated -spot, and commands a fine prospect of the falls of the river, and of the -adjacent country on the opposite side. The best houses stand here, and -also the capitol or state house. From the opposite side of the river -this building appears extremely well, as its defects cannot be observed -at that distance, but on a closer inspection it proves to be a clumsy -ill shapen pile. The original plan was sent over from France by Mr. -Jefferson, and had great merit; but his ingenious countrymen thought -they could improve it, and to do so placed what was intended for the -attic story, in the plan, at the bottom, and put the columns on the top -of it. In many other respects, likewise, the plan was inverted. This -building is finished entirely with red brick; even the columns -themselves are formed of brick; but to make them appear like stone, they -have been partially whitened with common whitewash. The inside of the -building is but very little better than its exterior part. The principal -room is for the house of representatives; this is used also for divine -service, as there is no such thing as a church in the town. The -vestibule is circular, and very dark; it is to be ornamented with a -statue of General Washington, executed by an eminent artist in France, -which arrived while I was in the town. Ugly and ill contrived as this -building is, a stranger must not attempt to find fault with any part of -it, for it is looked upon by the inhabitants as a most elegant fabric. - -The falls in the river, or the rapids, as they should be called, extend -six miles above the city, in the course of which there is a descent of -about eighty feet. The river is here full of large rocks, and the water -rushes over them in some places with great impetuosity. A canal is -completed at the north side of these falls, which renders the navigation -complete from Richmond to the Blue Mountains, and at particular times of -the year, boats with light burthens can proceed still higher up. In the -river, opposite the town, are no more than seven feet water, but ten -miles lower down about twelve feet. Most of the vessels trading to -Richmond unlade the greater part of their cargoes at this place into -river craft, and then proceed up to the town. Trade is carried on here -chiefly by foreigners, as the Virginians have but little inclination for -it, and are too fond of amusement to pursue it with much success. - -[Sidenote: GAMBLING.] - -Richmond contains about four thousand inhabitants, one half of whom are -slaves. Amongst the freemen are numbers of lawyers, who, with the -officers of the state government, and several that live retired on their -fortunes, reside in the upper town; the other part is inhabited -principally by the traders. - -Perhaps in no place of the same size in the world is there more gambling -going forward than in Richmond. I had scarcely alighted from my horse at -the tavern, when the landlord came to ask what game I was most partial -to, as in such a room there was a faro table, in another a hazard table, -in a third a billiard table, to any one of which he was ready to conduct -me. Not the smallest secrecy is employed in keeping these tables; they -are always crowded with people, and the doors of the apartment are only -shut to prevent the rabble from coming in. Indeed, throughout the lower -parts of the country in Virginia, and also in that part of Maryland next -to it, there is scarcely a petty tavern without a billiard room, and -this is always full of a set of idle low-lived fellows, drinking spirits -or playing cards, if not engaged at the table. Cockfighting is also -another favourite diversion. It is chiefly, however, the lower class of -people that partake of these amusements at the taverns; in private there -is, perhaps, as little gambling in Virginia as in any other part of -America. The circumstance of having the taverns thus infested by such a -set of people renders travelling extremely unpleasant. Many times I have -been forced to proceed much farther in a day than I have wished, in -order to avoid the scenes of rioting and quarrelling that I have met -with at the taverns, which it is impossible to escape as long as you -remain in the same house where they are carried on, for every apartment -is considered as common, and that room in which a stranger sits down is -sure to be the most frequented. - -Whenever these people come to blows, they fight just like wild beasts, -biting, kicking, and endeavouring to tear each other’s eyes out with -their nails. It is by no means uncommon to meet with those who have lost -an eye in a combat, and there are men who pride themselves upon the -dexterity with which they can scoop one out. This is called _gouging_. -To perform the horrid operation, the combatant twills his forefingers in -the side locks of his adversary’s hair, and then applies his thumbs to -the bottom of the eye, to force it out of the socket. If ever there is a -battle, in which neither of those engaged loses an eye, their faces are -however generally cut in a shocking manner with the thumb nails, in the -many attempts which are made at gouging. But what is worse than all, -these wretches in their combat endeavour to their utmost to tear out -each other’s testicles. Four or five instances came within my own -observation, as I passed through Maryland and Virginia, of men being -confined in their beds from the injuries which they had received of this -nature in a fight. In the Carolinas and Georgia, I have been credibly -assured, that the people are still more depraved in this respect than in -Virginia, and that in some particular parts of these states, every third -or fourth man appears with one eye. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XV. - -_Description of Virginia between Richmond and the Mountains.—Fragrance - of Flowers and Shrubs in the Woods.—Melody of the Birds.—Of the - Birds of Virginia.—Mocking Bird.—Blue Bird.—Red Bird, - &c.—Singular Noises of the Frogs.—Columbia.—Magazine there.—Fire - Flies in the Woods.—Green Springs.—Wretchedness of the - Accommodation there.—Difficulty of finding the Way through the - Woods.—Serpents.—Rattle-Snake.—Copper-Snake.—Black Snake.—South-west, - or Green Mountains.—Soil of them.—Mountain Torrents do great - Damage.—Salubrity of the Climate.—Great Beauty of the Peasantry.—Many - Gentlemen of Property living here.— Monticello, the Seat of Mr. - Jefferson.—Vineyards.—Observations on the Culture of the Grape, and - the Manufacture of Wine._ - - - Monticello, May. - -HAVING staid at Richmond somewhat longer than a week, which I found -absolutely necessary, if it had only been to recruit the strength of my -horses, that had been half starved in coming from Norfolk, I proceeded -in a north-westerly direction towards the South-west or Green Mountains. - -[Sidenote: VIRGINIAN BIRDS.] - -The country about Richmond is sandy, but not so much so, nor as flat as -on the south side of James River towards the sea. It now wore a most -pleasing aspect. The first week in May had arrived; the trees had -obtained a considerable part of their foliage, and the air in the woods -was perfumed with the fragrant smell of numberless flowers and flowering -shrubs, which sprang up on all sides. The music of the birds was also -delightful. It is thought that in Virginia the singing birds are finer -than what are to be met with on any other part of the continent, as the -climate is more congenial to them, being neither so intensely hot in -summer as that of the Carolinas, nor so cold in winter as that of the -more northern states. The notes of the mocking bird or Virginian -nightingale are in particular most melodious. This bird is of the colour -and about the size of a thrush, but more slender; it imitates the song -of every other bird, but with increased strength and sweetness. The bird -whose song it mocks generally flies away, as if conscious of being -excelled by the other, and dissatisfied with its own powers. It is a -remark, however, made by Catesby, and which appears to be a very just -one, that the birds in America are much inferior to those in Europe in -the melody of their notes, but that they are superior in point of -plumage. I know of no American bird that has the rich mellow note of our -black-bird, the sprightly note of the skylark, or the sweet and -plaintive one of the nightingale. - -After having listened to the mocking bird, there is no novelty in -hearing the song of any other bird in the country; and indeed their -songs are for the most part but very simple in themselves, though -combined they are pleasing. - -The most remarkable for their plumage of those commonly met with are, -the blue bird and the red bird. The first is about the size of a linnet; -its back, head, and wings are of dark yet bright blue; when flying the -plumage appears to the greatest advantage. The red bird is larger than a -sky lark, though smaller than a thrush; it is of a vermilion colour, and -has a small tuft on its head. A few humming birds make their appearance -in summer, but their plumage is not so beautiful as those found more to -the southward. - -[Sidenote: COLUMBIA.] - -Of the other common birds there are but few worth notice. Doves and -quails, or partridges as they are sometimes called, afford good -diversion for the sportsman. These last birds in their habits are -exactly similar to European partridges, excepting that they alight -sometimes upon trees; their size is that of the quail, but they are -neither the same as the English quail or the English partridge. It is -the same with many other birds, as jays, robins, larks, pheasants, &c. -which were called by the English settlers after the birds of the same -name in England, because they bore some resemblance to them, though in -fact they are materially different. In the lower parts of Virginia, and -to the southward, are great numbers of large birds, called turkey -buzzards, which, when mounted aloft on the wing, look like eagles. In -Carolina there is a law prohibiting the killing of these birds, as they -feed upon putrid carcases, and therefore contribute to keep the air -wholesome. There is only one bird more which I shall mention, the -whipperwill, or whip-poor-will, as it is sometimes called, from the -plaintive noise that it makes; to my ear it sounded wȳp-ŏ-īl. It begins -to make this noise, which is heard a great way off, about dusk, and -continues it through the greater part of the night. This bird is so very -wary, and so few instances have occurred of its being seen, much less -taken, that many have imagined the noise does not proceed from a bird, -but from a frog, especially as it is heard most frequently in the -neighbourhood of low grounds. - -The frogs in America, it must here be observed, make a most singular -noise, some of them absolutely whistling, whilst others croak so loudly, -that it is difficult at times to tell whether the sound proceeds from a -calf or a frog: I have more than once been deceived by the noise when -walking in a meadow. These last frogs are called bull frogs; they mostly -keep in pairs, and are never found but where there is good water; their -bodies are from four to seven inches long, and their legs are in -proportion; they are extremely active, and take prodigious leaps. - -The first town I reached on going towards the mountains was Columbia, or -Point of Fork, as it is called in the neighbourhood. It is situated -about sixty miles above Richmond, at the confluence of Rivanna and -Fluvanna rivers, which united form James River. This is a flourishing -little place, containing about forty houses, and a warehouse for the -inspection of tobacco. On the neck of land between the two rivers, just -opposite to the town, is the magazine of the state, in which are kept -twelve thousand stand of arms, and about thirty tons of powder. The low -lands bordering upon the river in this neighbourhood are extremely -valuable. - -From Columbia to the Green Springs, about twenty miles farther on, the -road runs almost wholly through a pine forest, and is very lonely. Night -came on before I got to the end of it, and, as very commonly happens -with travellers in this part of the world, I soon lost my way. A light, -however, seen through the trees, seemed to indicate that a house was not -far off; my servant eagerly rode up to it, but the poor fellow’s -consternation was great indeed when he observed it moving from him, -presently coming back, and then with swiftness departing again into the -woods. I was at a loss for a time myself to account for the appearance, -but after proceeding a little farther, I observed the same sort of light -in many other places, and dismounting from my horse to examine a bush -where one of these sparks appeared to have fallen, I found it proceeded -from the fire fly. As the summer came on, these flies appeared every -night: after a light shower in the afternoon, I have seen the woods -sparkling with them in every quarter. The light is emitted from the -tail, and the animal has the power of emitting it or not at pleasure. - -[Sidenote: GREEN SPRINGS.] - -After wandering about till it was near eleven o’clock, a plantation at -last appeared, and having got fresh information respecting the road from -the negroes in the quarter, who generally sit up half the night, and -over a fire in all seasons, I again set out for the Green Springs. With -some difficulty I at last found the way, and arrived there about -midnight. The hour was so unseasonable, that the people at the tavern -were very unwilling to open their doors; and it was not till I had -related the history of my adventures from the last stage two or three -times that they could be prevailed upon to let me in. At last a tall -fellow in his shirt came grumbling to the door, and told me I might come -in if I would. I had now a parley for another quarter of an hour to -persuade him to give me some corn for my horses, which he was very -unwilling to do; but at last he complied, though much against his -inclination, and unlocked the stable door. Returning to the house, I was -shewn into a room about ten feet square, in which were two filthy beds -swarming with bugs; the ceiling had mouldered away, and the walls -admitted light in various places; it was a happy circumstance, however, -that these apertures were in the wall, for the window of the apartment -was insufficient in itself to admit either light or fresh air. Here I -would fain have got something to eat, if possible, but not even so much -as a piece of bread was to be had; indeed, in this part of the country -they seldom think of keeping bread ready made, but just prepare -sufficient for the meal about half an hour before it is wanted, and then -serve it hot. Unable therefore to procure any food, and fatigued with a -long journey during a parching day, I threw myself down on one of the -beds in my clothes, and enjoyed a profound repose, notwithstanding the -repeated onsets of the bugs and other vermin with which I was molested. - -Besides the tavern and the quarters of the slaves, there is but one more -building at this place. This is a large farm house, where people that -resort to the springs are accommodated with lodgings, about as good as -those at the tavern. These habitations stand in the center of a cleared -spot of land of about fifty acres, surrounded entirely with wood. The -springs are just on the margin of the wood, at the bottom of a slope, -which begins at the houses, and are covered with a few boards, merely to -keep the leaves from falling in. The waters are chalybeate, and are -drank chiefly by persons from the low country, whose constitutions have -been relaxed by the heats of summer. - -[Sidenote: SNAKES.] - - -[Sidenote: MOUNTAINS.] - -Having breakfasted in the morning at this miserable little place, I -proceeded on my journey up the South-west Mountain. In the course of -this day’s ride I observed a great number of snakes, which were now -beginning to come forth from their holes. I killed a black one, that I -found sleeping, stretched across the road; it was five feet in length. -The black snake is more commonly met with than any other in this part of -America, and is usually from four to six feet in length. In proportion -to the length it is extremely slender; the back is perfectly black, the -belly lead colour, inclining to white towards the throat. The bite of -this snake is not poisonous, and the people in that country are not -generally inclined to kill it, from its great utility in destroying rats -and mice. It is wonderfully fond of milk, and is frequently found in the -dairies, which in Virginia are for the most part in low situations, like -cellars, as the milk could not otherwise be kept sweet for two hours -together in summer time. The black snake, at the time of copulation, -immediately pursues any person who comes in sight, and with such -swiftness, that the best runner cannot escape from him upon even ground. -Many other sorts of harmless snakes are found here, some of which are -beautifully variegated, as the garter, the ribbon, the blueish green -snake, &c. &c. Of the venomous kind, the most common are the rattle -snake, and the copper or moccassin snake. The former is found chiefly on -the mountains; but although frequently met with, it is very rarely that -people are bitten by it; scarcely a summer, however, passes over without -several being bit by the copper snake. The poison of the latter is not -so subtile as that of the rattle snake, but it is very injurious, and if -not attended to in time, death will certainly ensue. The rattle snake is -very dull, and never attacks a person that does not molest him; but, at -the same time, he will not turn out of the way to avoid any one; before -he bites, he always gives notice by shaking his rattles, so that a -person that hears them can readily get out of his way. The copper snake, -on the contrary, is more active and treacherous, and, it is said, will -absolutely put himself in the way of a person to bite him. Snakes are -neither so numerous nor so venomous in the northern as in the southern -states. Horses, cows, dogs, and fowl seem to have an innate sense of the -danger they are exposed to from these poisonous reptiles, and will shew -evident symptoms of fear on approaching near them, although they are -dead; but what is remarkable, hogs, so far from being afraid of them, -pursue and devour them with the greatest avidity, totally regardless of -their bites. It is supposed that the great quantity of fat, with which -they are furnished, prevents the poison from operating on their bodies -as on those of other animals. Hog’s lard, it might therefore reasonably -be conjectured, would be a good remedy for the bite of a snake: however, -I never heard cf its being tried; the people generally apply herbs to -the wound, the specific qualities of which are well known. It is a -remarkable instance of the bounty of providence, that in all those parts -of the country where these venomous reptiles abound, those herbs which -are the most certain antidote to the poison are found in the greatest -plenty. - -The South-west Mountains run nearly parallel to the Blue Ridge, and are -the first which you come to on going up the country from the sea coast -in Virginia. These mountains are not lofty, and ought indeed rather to -be called hills than mountains; they are not seen till you come within a -very few miles of them, and the ascent is so gradual, that you get upon -their top almost without perceiving it. - -The soil here changes to a deep argilaceous earth, particularly well -suited to the culture of small grain and clover, and produces abundant -crops. As this earth, however, does not absorb the water very quickly, -the farmer is exposed to great losses from heavy falls of rain; the seed -is liable to be washed out of the ground, so that sometimes it is found -necessary to sow a field two or three different times before it becomes -green; and if great care be not taken to guard such fields as lie on a -declivity by proper trenches, the crops are sometimes entirely -destroyed, even after they arrive at maturity; indeed, very often, -notwithstanding the utmost precautions, the water departs from its usual -channel, and sweeps away all before it. After heavy torrents of rain I -have frequently seen all the negroes in a farm dispatched with hoes and -spades to different fields, to be ready to turn the course of the water, -in case it should take an improper direction. On the sides of the -mountain, where the ground has been worn out with the culture of -tobacco, and left waste, and the water has been suffered to run in the -same channel for a length of time, it is surprising to see the depth of -the ravines or gullies, as they are called, which it has formed. They -are just like so many precipices, and are insurmountable barriers to the -passage from one side of the mountain to the other. - -[Sidenote: CLIMATE.] - -Notwithstanding such disadvantages, however, the country in the -neighbourhood of these mountains is far more populous than that which -lies towards Richmond; and there are many persons that even consider it -to be the garden of the United States. All the productions of the lower -part of Virginia may be had here, at the same time that the heat is -never found to be so oppressive; for in the hottest months in the year -there is a freshness and elasticity in the air unknown in the low -country. The extremes of heat and cold are found to be 90° and 6° above -cipher, but it is not often that the thermometer rises above 84°, and -the winters are so mild in general, that it is a very rare circumstance -for the snow to lie for three days together upon the ground. - -The salubrity of the climate is equal also to that of any part of the -United States; and the inhabitants have in consequence a healthy ruddy -appearance. The female part of the peasantry in particular is totally -different from that in the low country. Instead of the pale, sickly, -debilitated beings, whom you meet with there, you find amongst these -mountains many a one that would be a fit subject to be painted for a -Lavinia. It is really delightful to behold the groups of females, -assembled here, at times, to gather the cherries and other fruits which -grow in the greatest abundance in the neighbourhood of almost every -habitation. Their shapes and complexions are charming; and the -carelessness of their dresses, which consist of little more, in common, -than a simple bodice and petticoat, makes them appear even still more -engaging. - -The common people in this neighbourhood appeared to me to be of a more -frank and open disposition, more inclined to hospitality, and to live -more contentedly on what they possessed, than the people of the same -class in any other part of the United States I passed through. From -being able, however, to procure the necessaries of life upon very easy -terms, they are rather of an indolent habit, and inclined to -dissipation. Intoxication is very prevalent, and it is scarcely possible -to meet with a man who does not begin the day with taking one, two, or -more drams as soon as he rises. Brandy is the liquor which they -principally use, and having the greatest abundance of peaches, they make -it at a very trifling expence. There is hardly a house to be found with -two rooms in it, but where the inhabitants have a still. The females do -not fall into the habit of intoxication like the men, but in other -respects they are equally disposed to pleasure, and their morals are in -like manner relaxed. - -[Sidenote: MONTICELLO.] - -Along these mountains live several gentlemen of large landed property, -who farm their own estates, as in the lower parts of Virginia; among the -number is Mr. Jefferson[23], from whose seat I date this letter. His -house is about three miles distant from Charlottesville and two from -Milton, which is on the head waters of Rivanna River. It is most -singularly situated, being built upon the top of a small mountain, the -apex of which has been cut off, so as to leave an area of about an acre -and half. At present it is in an unfinished state; but if carried on -according to the plan laid down, it will be one of the most elegant -private habitations in the United States. A large apartment is laid out -for a library and museum, meant to extend the entire breadth of the -house, the windows of which are to open into an extensive green house -and aviary. In the center is another very spacious apartment, of an -octagon form, reaching from the front to the rear of the house, the -large folding glass doors of which, at each end, open under a portico. -An apartment like this, extending from front to back, is very common in -a Virginian house; it is called the saloon, and during summer is the one -generally preferred by the family, on account of its being more airy and -spacious than any other. The house commands a magnificent prospect on -one side of the blue ridge of mountains for nearly forty miles, and on -the - -Footnote 23: - - Vice-president of the United States. - -opposite one, of the low country, in appearance like an extended heath -covered with trees, the tops alone of which are visible. The mists and -vapours arising from the low grounds give a continual variety to the -scene. The mountain whereon the house stands is thickly wooded on one -side, and walks are carried round it, with different degrees of -obliquity, running into each other. On the south side is the garden and -a large vineyard, that produces abundance of fine fruit. - -[Sidenote: VINES.] - -Several attempts have been made in this neighbourhood to bring the -manufacture of wine to perfection; none of them however have succeeded -to the wish of the parties. A set of gentlemen once went to the expence -even of getting six Italians over for the purpose, but the vines which -the Italians found growing here were different, as well as the soil, -from what they had been in the habit of cultivating, and they were not -much more successful in the business than the people of the country. We -must not, however, from hence conclude that good wine can never be -manufactured upon these mountains. It is well known that the vines, and -the mode of cultivating them, vary as much in different parts of Europe -as the soil in one country differs from that in another. It will require -some time, therefore, and different experiments, to ascertain the -particular kind of vine, and the mode of cultivating it, best adapted to -the soil of these mountains. This, however, having been once -ascertained, there is every reason to suppose that the grape may be -cultivated to the greatest perfection, as the climate is as favourable -for the purpose as that of any country in Europe. By experiments also it -is by no means improbable, that they will in process of time learn the -best method of converting the juice of the fruit into wine. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XVI. - -_Of the Country between the South-west and Blue Mountains.—Copper and - Iron Mines.—Lynchburgh.—New London.—Armoury here.—Description of the - Road over the Blue Mountains.—Peaks of Otter, highest of the - Mountains.—Supposed Height.—Much over-rated.—German Settlers numerous - beyond the Blue Mountains.—Singular Contrast between the Country and - the Inhabitants on each Side of the Mountains.—Of the Weevil.—Of the - Hessian Fly.—Bottetourt County.—Its Soil.—Salubrity of the - Climate.—Medicinal Springs here.—Much frequented._ - - - Fincastle, May. - -THE country between the South-west Mountains and the Blue Ridge is very -fertile, and it is much more thickly inhabited than the lower parts of -Virginia. The climate is good, and the people have a healthy and robust -appearance. Several valuable mines of iron and copper have been -discovered here, for the working of some of which works have been -established; but till the country becomes more populous it cannot be -expected that they will be carried on with much spirit. - -[Sidenote: BLUE MOUNTAINS.] - -Having crossed the South-west Mountains, I passed along through this -county to Lynchburgh, a town situated on the south side of Fluvanna -River, one hundred and fifty miles above Richmond. This town contains -about one hundred houses, and a warehouse for the inspection of tobacco, -where about two thousand hogsheads are annually inspected. It has been -built entirely within the last fifteen years, and is rapidly increasing, -from its advantageous situation for carrying on trade with the adjacent -country. The boats, in which the produce is conveyed down the river, are -from forty-eight to fifty-four feet long, but very narrow in proportion -to their breadth. Three men are sufficient to navigate one of these -boats, and they can go to Richmond and back again in ten days. They fall -down with the stream, but work their way back again with poles. The -cargo carried in these boats is always proportionate to the depth of -water in the river, which varies very much. When I passed it to -Lynchburgh, there was no difficulty in riding across, yet when I got -upon the opposite banks I observed great quantities of weeds hanging -upon the trees, considerably above my head though on horseback, -evidently left there by a flood. This flood happened in the preceding -September, when the waters rose fifteen feet above their usual level. - -A few miles from Lynchburgh, towards the Blue Mountains, is a small town -called New London, in which there is a magazine, and also an armoury, -erected during the war. About fifteen men were here employed, as I -passed through, repairing old arms and furbishing up others; and indeed, -from the slovenly manner in which they keep their arms, I should imagine -that the same number must be constantly employed all the year round. At -one end of the room lay the musquets, to the amount of about five -thousand, all together in a large heap, and at the opposite end lay a -pile of leathern accoutrements, absolutely rotting for want of common -attention. All the armouries throughout the United States are kept much -in the same style. - -Between this place and the Blue Mountains the country is rough and -hilly, and but very thinly inhabited. The few inhabitants, however, met -with here are, uncommonly robust and tall; it is rare to see a man -amongst them who is not six feet high. These people entertain a high -opinion of their own superiority in point of bodily strength over the -inhabitants of the low country. A similar race of men is found all along -the Blue Mountains. - -The Blue Ridge is thickly covered with large trees to the very summit; -some of the mountains are rugged and extremely stony, others are not so, -and on these last the soil is found to be rich and fertile. It is only -in particular places that this ridge of mountains can be crossed, and at -some of the gaps the ascent is steep and difficult; but at the place -where I crossed it, which was near the Peak of Otter, on the south side, -instead of one great mountain to pass over, as might be imagined from an -inspection of the map, there is a succession of small hills, rising -imperceptibly one above the other, so that you get upon the top of the -ridge before you are aware of it. - -[Sidenote: PEAKS OF OTTER.] - -The Peaks of Otter are the highest mountains in the Blue Ridge, and, -measured from their bases, are supposed to be more lofty than any others -in North America. According to Mr. Jefferson, whose authority has been -quoted nearly by every person that has written on the subject since the -publication of his Notes on Virginia, the principal peak is about four -thousand feet in perpendicular height; but it must be observed, that Mr. -Jefferson does not say that he measured the height himself; on the -contrary, he acknowledges that the height of the mountains in America -has never yet been ascertained with any degree of exactness; it is only -from certain data, from which he says a tolerable conjecture may be -formed, that he supposes this to be the height of the loftiest peak. -Positively to assert that this peak is not so high, without having -measured it in any manner, would be absurd; as I did not measure it, I -do not therefore pretend to contradict Mr. Jefferson; I have only to -say, that the most elevated of the peaks of Otter appeared to me but a -very insignificant mountain in companion with Snowden, in Wales; and -every person that I conversed with that had seen both, and I conversed -with many, made the same remark. Now the highest peak of Snowden is -found by triangular admeasurement to be no more than three thousand five -hundred and sixty-eight feet high, reckoning from the quay at Carnarvon. -None of the other mountains in the Blue Ridge are supposed, from the -same data, to be more than two thousand feet in perpendicular height. - -[Sidenote: COTTON.] - -Beyond the Blue Ridge, after crossing by this route near the Peaks of -Otter, I met with but very few settlements till I drew near to -Fincastle, in Bottetourt County. This town stands about twenty miles -distant from the mountain, and about fifteen south of Fluvanna River. It -was only begun about the year 1790, yet it already contains sixty -houses, and is most rapidly increasing. The improvement of the adjacent -country has likewise been very rapid, and land now bears nearly the same -price that it does in the neighbourhood of York and Lancaster, in -Pennsylvania. The inhabitants consist principally of Germans, who have -extended their settlements from Pennsylvania along the whole of that -rich track of land which runs through the upper part of Maryland, and -from thence behind the Blue Mountains to the most southern parts of -Virginia. These people, as I before mentioned, keep very much together, -and are never to be found but where the land is remarkably good. It is -singular, that although they form three fourths of the inhabitants on -the western side of the Blue Ridge, yet not one of them is to be met -with on the eastern side, notwithstanding that land is to be purchased -in the neighbourhood of the South-west Mountains for one fourth of what -is paid for it in Bottetourt County. They have many times, I am told, -crossed the Blue Ridge to examine the land, but the red soil which they -found there was different from what they had been accustomed to, and the -injury it was exposed to from the mountain torrents always appeared to -them an insuperable objection to settling in that part of the country. -The difference indeed between the country on the eastern and on the -western side of the Blue Ridge, in Bottetourt County, is astonishing, -when it is considered that both are under the same latitude, and that -this difference is perceptible within the short distance of thirty -miles. - -On the eastern side of the ridge cotton grows extremely well; and in -winter the snow scarcely ever remains more than a day or two upon the -ground. On the other side cotton never comes to perfection, the winters -are severe, and the fields covered with snow for weeks together. In -every farm yard you see sleighs or sledges, carriages used to run upon -the snow. Wherever these carriages are met with, it may be taken for -granted that the winter lasts in that part of the country for a -considerable length of time, for the people would never go to the -expence of building them, without being tolerably certain that they -would be useful. On the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, in Virginia, not -one of these carriages is to be met with. - -It has already been mentioned, that the predominant soil to the eastward -of the Blue Ridge is a red earth, and that it is always a matter of some -difficulty to lay down a piece of land in grass, on account of the -rains, which are apt to wash away the seeds, together with the mould on -the surface. In Bottetourt County, on the contrary, the soil consists -chiefly of a rich brown mould, and throws up white clover spontaneously. -To have a rich meadow, it is only necessary to leave a piece of ground -to the hand of nature for one year. Again, on the eastern side of the -Blue Mountains, scarcely any limestone is to be met with; on the -opposite one, a bed of it runs entirely through the country, so that by -some it is emphatically called the limestone county. In sinking wells, -they have always to dig fifteen or twenty feet through a solid rock to -get at the water. - -[Sidenote: INSECTS.] - -Another circumstance may also be mentioned, as making a material -difference between the country on one side of the Blue Ridge and that on -the other, namely, that behind the mountains the weevil is unknown. The -weevil is a small insect of the moth kind, which deposits its eggs in -the cavity of the grain, and particularly in that of wheat; and if the -crops are stacked or laid up in the barn in sheaves, these eggs are -there hatched, and the grain is in consequence totally destroyed. To -guard against this in the lower parts of Virginia, and the other states -where the weevil is common, they always thresh out the grain as soon as -the crops are brought in, and leave it in the chaff, which creates a -degree of heat sufficient to destroy the insect, at the same time that -it does not injure the wheat. This insect has been known in America but -a very few years; according to the general opinion, it originated on the -eastern shore of Maryland, where a person, in expectation of a great -rise in the price of wheat, kept over all his crops for the space of six -years, when they were found full of these insects; from thence they have -spread gradually over different parts of the country. For a considerable -time the Patowmac River formed a barrier to their progress, and while -the crops were entirely destroyed in Maryland, they remained secure in -Virginia; but these insects at last found their way across the river. -The Blue Mountains at present serve as a barrier, and secure the country -to the westward from their depredations[24]. - -Footnote 24: - - There is another insect, which in a similar manner made its - appearance, and afterwards spread through a great part of the country, - very injurious also to the crops. It is called the Hessian fly, from - having been brought over, as is supposed, in some forage belonging to - the Hessian troops, during the war. This insect lodges itself in - different parts of the stalk, while green, and makes such rapid - devastations, that a crop which appears in the best possible state - will, perhaps, be totally destroyed in the course of two or three - days. In Maryland, they say, that if the land is very highly manured, - the Hessian fly never attacks the grain; they also say, that crops - raised upon land that has been worked for a long time are much less - exposed to injury from these insects than the crops raised upon new - land. If this is really the case, the appearance of the Hessian fly - should be considered as a circumstance rather beneficial than - otherwise to the country, as it will induce the inhabitants to - relinquish that ruinous practice of working the same piece of ground - year after year till it is entirely worn out, and then leaving it - waste, instead of taking some pains to improve it by manure. This fly - is not known at present south of the Patowmac River, nor behind the - Blue Ridge. - -[Sidenote: MEDICINAL SPRINGS.] - -Bottetourt County is entirely surrounded by mountains; it is also -crossed by various ridges of mountains in different directions, a -circumstance which renders the climate particularly agreeable. It -appears to me, that there is no part of America where the climate would -be more congenial to the constitution of a native of Great Britain or -Ireland. The frost in winter is more regular, but not severer than -commonly takes place in those islands. In summer the heat is, perhaps, -somewhat greater; but there is not a night in the year that a blanket is -not found very comfortable. Before ten o’clock in the morning the heat -is greatest; at that hour a breeze generally springs up from the -mountains, and renders the air agreeable the whole day. Fever and ague -are disorders unknown here, and the air is so salubrious, that persons -who come hither afflicted with it from the low country, towards the sea, -get rid of it in a very short time. - -In the western part of the county are several medicinal springs, whereto -numbers of people resort towards the latter end of summer, as much for -the sake of escaping the heat in the low country, as for drinking the -waters. Those most frequented are called the Sweet Springs, and are -situated at the foot of the Alleghany Mountains. During the last season -upwards of two hundred persons resorted to them with servants and -horses. The accommodations at the springs are most wretched at present; -but a set of gentlemen from South Carolina have, I understand, since I -was there, purchased the place, and are going to erect several -commodious dwellings in the neighbourhood, for the reception of company. -Besides these springs there are others in Jackson’s Mountains, a ridge -which runs between the Blue Mountains and the Alleghany. One of the -springs here is warm, and another quite hot; a few paces from the latter -a spring of common water issues from the earth, but which, from the -contrast, is generally thought to be as remarkable for its coldness as -the water of the adjoining one is for its heat: there is also a sulphur -spring near these; leaves of trees falling into it become thickly -incrusted with sulphur in a very short time, and silver is turned black -almost immediately. At a future period the medicinal qualities of all -these springs will probably be accurately ascertained; at present they -are but very little known. As for the relief obtained by those persons -that frequent the Sweet Springs in particular, it is strongly -conjectured that they are more indebted for it to the change of the -climate than to the rare qualities of the water. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XVII. - -_Description of the celebrated Rock Bridge, and of an immense - Cavern.—Description of the Shenandoa Valley.—Inhabitants - mostly Germans.—Soil and Climate.—Observations on American - Landscapes.—Mode of cutting down Trees.—High Road to Kentucky, behind - Blue Mountains. — Much frequented.—Uncouth, inquisitive - People.—Lexington.—Staunton.—Military Titles very common in - America.—Causes thereof.—Winchester._ - - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _of the_ ROCK BRIDGE. -] - - Winchester, May. - -[Sidenote: ROCK BRIDGE.] - - -AFTER remaining a considerable time in Bottetourt County, I again -crossed Fluvanna River into the county of Rockbridge, so called from the -remarkable natural bridge of rock that is in it. This bridge stands -about ten miles from Fluvanna River, and nearly the same distance from -the Blue Ridge. It extends across a deep cleft in a mountain, which, by -some great convulsion of nature, has been split asunder from top to -bottom, and it seems to have been left there purposely to afford a -passage from one side of the chasm to the other. The cleft or chasm is -about two miles long, and is in some places upwards of three hundred -feet deep; the depth varies according to the height of the mountain, -being deepest where the mountain is most lofty. The breadth of the chasm -also varies in different places; but in every part it is uniformly wider -at top than towards the bottom. That the two sides of the chasm were -once united appears very evident, not only from projecting rocks on the -one side corresponding with suitable cavities on the other, but also -from the different strata of earth, sand, clay, &c. being exactly -similar from top to bottom on both sides; but by what great agent they -were separated, whether by fire or by water, remains hidden amongst -those arcana of nature which we vainly endeavour to develope. - -[Sidenote: ROCK BRIDGE.] - -The arch consists of a solid mass of stone, or of several stones -cemented so strongly together, that they appear but as one. This mass, -it is to be supposed, at the time that the hill was rent asunder, was -drawn across the fissure from adhering closely to one side, and being -loosened from its bed of earth at the opposite one. It seems as -probable, I think, that the mass of stone forming the arch was thus -forcibly plucked from one side, and drawn across the fissure, as that -the hill should have remained disunited at this one spot from top to -bottom, and that a passage should afterwards have been forced through it -by water. The road leading to the bridge runs through a thick wood, and -up a hill, having ascended which, nearly to the top, you pause for a -moment at finding a sudden discontinuance of the trees at one side; but -the amazement which fills the mind is great indeed, when, on going a few -paces towards the part which appears thus open, you find yourself on the -brink of a tremendous precipice. You involuntarily draw back, stare -around, then again come forward to satisfy yourself that what you have -seen is real, and not the illusions of fancy. You now perceive, that you -are upon the top of the bridge, to the very edge of which, on one side, -you may approach with safety, and look down into the abyss, being -protected from falling by a parapet of fixed rocks. The walls, as it -were, of the bridge at this side are so perpendicular, that a person -leaning over the parapet of rock might let fall a plummet from the hand -to the very bottom of the chasm. On the opposite side this is not the -case, nor is there any parapet; but from the edge of the road, which -runs over the bridge, is a gradual slope to the brink of the chasm, upon -which it is somewhat dangerous to venture. This slope is thickly covered -with large trees, principally cedars and pines. The opposite side was -also well furnished with trees formerly, but all those that grew near -the edge of the bridge have been cut down by different people, for the -sake of seeing them tumble to the bottom. Before the trees were -destroyed in this manner, you might have passed over the bridge without -having had any idea of being upon it; for the breadth of it is no less -than eighty feet. The road runs nearly in the middle, and is frequented -daily by waggons. - -At the distance of a few yards from the bridge, a narrow path appears, -winding along the sides of the fissure, amidst immense rocks and trees, -down to the bottom of the bridge. Here the stupendous arch appears in -all its glory, and seems to touch the very skies. To behold it without -rapture, indeed, is impossible; and the more critically it is examined, -the more beautiful and the more surprising does it appear. The height of -the bridge to the top of the parapet is two hundred and thirteen feet by -admeasurement with a line, the thickness of the arch forty feet, the -span of the arch at top ninety feet, and the distance between the -abutments at bottom fifty feet. The abutments consist of a solid mass of -limestone on either side, and, together with the arch, seem as if they -had been chiseled out by the hand of art. A small stream, called Cedar -Creek, running at the bottom of the fissure, over bed of rocks, adds -much to the beauty of the scene. - -The fissure takes a very sudden turn just above the bridge, according to -the course of the stream, so that when you stand below, and look under -the arch, the view is intercepted at the distance of about fifty yards -from the bridge. Mr. Jefferson’s statement, in his Notes, that the -fissure continues strait, terminating with a pleasing view of the North -Mountains, is quite erroneous. The sides of the chasm are thickly -covered in every part with trees, excepting where the huge rocks of -limestone appear. - -[Sidenote: MADDISON’S CAVE.] - -Besides this view from below, the bridge is seen to very great advantage -from a pinnacle of rocks, about fifty feet below the top of the fissure; -for here not only the arch is seen in all its beauty, but the spectator -is impressed in the most forcible manner with ideas of its grandeur, -from being enabled at the same time to look down into the profound gulph -over which it passes. - -About fifty miles to the northward of the Rock Bridge, and also behind -the Blue Mountains, there is another very remarkable natural curiosity; -this is a large cavern, known in the neighbourhood by the name of -Maddison’s Cave. It is in the heart of a mountain, about two hundred -feet high, and which is so deep on one side, that a person standing on -the top of it, might easily throw a pebble into the river, which flows -round the base; the opposite side of it is, however, very easy of -ascent, and on this side the path leading to the cavern runs, excepting -for the last twenty yards, when it suddenly turns along the steep part -of the mountain, which is extremely rugged, and covered with immense -rocks and trees from top to bottom. The mouth of the cavern, on this -steep side, about two thirds of the way up, is guarded by a huge pendent -stone, which seems ready to drop every instant, and it is hardly -possible to stoop under it, without reflecting with a certain degree of -awe, that were it to drop, nothing could save you from perishing within -the dreary walls of that mansion to which it affords an entrance. - -Preparatory to entering, the guide, whom I had procured from a -neighbouring house, lighted the ends of three or four splinters of pitch -pine, a large bundle of which he had brought with him: they burn out -very fast, but while they last are most excellent torches. The fire he -brought along with him, by means of a bit of green hiccory wood, which, -when once lighted, will burn slowly without any blaze till the whole is -consumed. - -[Sidenote: MADDISON’S CAVE.] - -The first apartment you enter is about twenty-five feet high, and -fifteen broad, and extends a considerable way to the right and left, the -floor ascending towards the former; here it is very moist, from the -quantity of water continually trickling from the roof. Fahrenheit’s -thermometer, which stood at 67° in the air, fell to 61° in this room. A -few yards to the left, on the side opposite to you on entering, a -passage presents itself, which leads to a sort of anti-chamber as it -were, from whence you proceed into the sound room, so named from the -prodigious reverberation of the sound of a voice or musical instrument -at the inside. This room is about twenty feet square; it is arched at -top, and the sides of it, as well as of that apartment which you first -enter, are beautifully ornamented with stalactites. Returning from hence -into the antichamber, and afterwards taking two or three turns to the -right and left, you enter a long passage about thirteen feet wide, and -perhaps about fifteen in height perpendicularly; but if it was measured -from the floor to the highest part of the roof obliquely, the distance -would be found much greater, as the walls on both sides slope very -considerably, and finally meet at top. This passage descends very -rapidly, and is, I should suppose, about sixty yards long. Towards the -end it narrows considerably, and terminates in a pool of clear water, -about three or four feet deep. How far this pool extends it is -impossible to say. A canoe was once brought down by a party, for the -purpose of examination, but they said, that after proceeding a little -way upon the water the canoe would not float, and they were forced to -return. Their fears, most probably, led them to fancy it was so. I fired -a pistol with a ball over the water, but the report was echoed from the -after part of the cavern, and not from that part beyond the water, so -that I should not suppose the passage extended much farther than could -be traced with the eye. The walls of this passage consist of a solid -rock of limestone on each side, which appears to have been separated by -some convulsion. The floor is of a deep sandy earth, and it has -repeatedly been dug up for the purpose of getting saltpetre, with which -the earth is strongly impregnated. The earth, after being dug up, is -mixed with water, and when the grosser particles fall to the bottom, the -water is drawn off and evaporated; from the residue the saltpetre is -procured. There are many other caverns in this neighbourhood, and also -farther to the westward, in Virginia; from all of them great quantities -of saltpetre are thus obtained. The gunpowder made with it, in the back -country, forms a principal article of commerce, and is sent to -Philadelphia in exchange for European manufactures. - -[Sidenote: MADDISON’S CAVE.] - -About two thirds of the way down this long passage, just described, is a -large aperture in the wall on the right, leading to another apartment, -the bottom of which is about ten feet below the floor of the passage, -and it is no easy matter to get down into it, as the sides are very -steep and extremely slippery. This is the largest and most beautiful -room in the whole cavern; it is somewhat of an oval form, about sixty -feet in length, thirty in breadth, and in some parts nearly fifty feet -high. The petrifactions formed by the water dropping from above are most -beautiful, and hang down from the ceiling in the form of elegant -drapery, the folds of which are similar to what those of large blankets -or carpets would be if suspended by one corner in a lofty room. If -struck with a stick a deep hollow sound is produced, which echoes -through the vaults of the cavern. In other parts of this room the -petrifactions have commenced at the bottom, and formed in pillars of -different heights; some of them reach nearly to the roof. If you go to a -remote part of this apartment, and leave a person with a lighted torch -moving about amidst these pillars, a thousand imaginary forms present -themselves, and you might almost fancy yourself in the infernal regions, -with spectres and monsters on every side. The floor of this room slopes -down gradually from one end to the other, and terminates in a pool of -water, which appears to be on a level with that at the end of the long -passage; from their situation it is most probable that they communicate -together. The thermometer which I had with me stood, in the remotest -part of this chamber, at 55°. From hence we returned to the mouth of the -cavern, and on coming into the light it appeared as if we really had -been in the infernal regions, for our faces, hands, and clothes were -smutted all over, every part of the cave being covered with soot from -the smoke of the pine torches which are so often carried in. The smoke -from the pitch pine is particularly thick and heavy. Before this cave -was much visited, and the walls blackened by the smoke, its beauty, I -was told by some of the old inhabitants, was great indeed, for the -petrifactions on the roof and walls are all of the dead white kind. - -The country immediately behind the Blue Mountains, between Bottetourt -County and the Patowmac River, is agreeably diversified with hill and -dale, and abounds with extensive tracts of rich land. The low grounds, -bordering upon the Shenandoah River, which runs contiguous to the Blue -Ridge for upwards of one hundred miles, are in particular distinguished -for their fertility. These low grounds are those which, strictly -speaking, constitute the Shenandoah Valley, though in general the -country lying for several miles distant from the river, and in some -parts very hilly, goes under that name. The natural herbage is not so -fine here as in Bottetourt County, but when clover is once sown it grows -most luxuriantly; wheat also is produced in as plentiful crops as in any -part of the United States. Tobacco is not raised excepting for private -use, and but little Indian corn is sown, as it is liable to be injured -by the nightly frosts, which are common in the spring. - -[Sidenote: LANDSCAPES.] - -The climate here is not so warm as in the lower parts of the country, on -the eastern side of the mountains; but it is by no means so temperate as -in Bottetourt County, which, from being environed with ridges of -mountains, is constantly refreshed with cooling breezes during summer, -and in the winter is sheltered from the keen blasts from the north west. - -The whole of this country, to the west of the mountains, is increasing -most rapidly in, population. In the neighbourhood of Winchester it is so -thickly settled, and consequently so much cleared, that wood is now -beginning to be thought valuable; the farmers are obliged frequently to -send ten or fifteen miles even for their fence rails. It is only, -however, in this particular neighbourhood that the country is so much -improved; in other places there are immense tracts of woodlands still -remaining, and in general the hills are all left uncleared. The hills -being thus left covered with trees is a circumstance which adds much to -the beauty of the country, and intermixed with extensive fields clothed -with the richest verdure, and watered by the numerous branches of the -Shenandoah River, a variety of pleasing landscapes are presented to the -eye in almost every part of the route from Bottetourt to the Patowmac, -many of which are considerably heightened by the appearance of the Blue -Mountains in the back ground. - -With regard to these landscapes however, and to American landscapes in -general, it is to be observed, that their beauty is much impaired by the -unpicturesque appearance of the angular fences, and of the stiff wooden -houses, which have at a little distance a heavy, dull, and gloomy -aspect. The stumps of the trees also, on land newly cleared, are most -disagreeable objects, wherewith the eye is continually assailed. When -trees are felled in America, they are never cut down close to the -ground, but the trunks are left standing two or three feet high; for it -is found that a woodman can cut down many more in a day, standing with a -gentle inclination of the body, than if he were to stoop so as to apply -his axe to the bottom of the tree; it does not make any difference -either to the farmer, whether the stump is left two or three feet high, -or whether it is cut down level with the ground, as in each case it -would equally be a hindrance to the plough. These stumps usually decay -in the course of seven or eight years; sometimes however sooner, -sometimes later, according to the quality of the timber. They never -throw up suckers, as stumps of trees would do in England if left in that -manner. - -[Sidenote: TOWNS.] - -The cultivated lands in this country are mostly parcelled out in small -portions; there are no persons here, as on the other side of the -mountains, possessing large farms; nor are there any eminently -distinguished by their education or knowledge from the rest of their -fellow citizens. Poverty also is as much unknown in this country as -great wealth. Each man owns the house he lives in and the land which he -cultivates, and every one appears to be in a happy state of mediocrity, -and unambitious of a more elevated situation than what he himself -enjoys. - -The free inhabitants consist for the most part of Germans, who here -maintain the same character as in Pennsylvania and the other states -where they have settled. About one sixth of the people, on an average, -are slaves, but in some of the counties the proportion is much less; in -Rockbridge the slaves do not amount to more than an eleventh, and in -Shenandoah County not to more than a twentieth part of the whole. - -Between Fincastle and the Patowmac there are several towns, as -Lexington, Staunton, Newmarket, Woodstock, Winchester, Strasburgh, and -some others. These towns all stand on the great road, running north and -south behind the Blue Mountains, and which is the high road from the -northern states to Kentucky. - -[Sidenote: LEXINGTON.] - -As I passed along it, I met with great numbers of people from Kentucky -and the new state of Tennessee going towards Philadelphia and Baltimore, -and with many others going in a contrary direction, “to explore,” as -they call it, that is, to search for lands conveniently situated for new -settlements in the western country. These people all travel on -horseback, with pistols or swords, and a large blanket folded up under -their saddle, which last they use for sleeping in when obliged to pass -the night in the woods. There is but little occasion for arms now that -peace has been made with the Indians; but formerly it used to be a very -serious undertaking to go by this route to Kentucky, and travellers were -always obliged to go forty or fifty in a party, and well prepared for -defence. It would be still dangerous for any person to venture singly; -but if five or six travel together, they are perfectly secure. There are -houses now scattered along nearly the whole way from Fincastle to -Lexington in Kentucky, so that it is not necessary to sleep more than -two or three nights in the woods in going there. Of all the uncouth -human beings I met with in America, these people from the western -country were the most so; their curiosity was boundless. Frequently have -I been stopped abruptly by one of them in a solitary part of the road, -and in such a manner, that had it been in another country, I should have -imagined it was a highwayman that was going to demand my purse, and -without any further preface, asked where I came from? if I was -acquainted with any news? where bound to? and finally, my name?—“Stop, -Mister! why I guess now you be coming from the new state.” “No, -Sir,”—“Why then I guess as how you be coming from Kentuc[25].” “No, -Sir.”—“Oh! why then, pray now where might you be coming from?” “From the -low country.”—“Why you must have heard all the news then; pray now, -Mister, what might the price of bacon be in those parts?” “Upon my word, -my friend, I can’t inform you.”—“Aye, aye; I see, Mister, you be’n’t one -of us; pray now, Mister, what might your name be?”—A stranger going the -same way is sure of having the company of these worthy people, so -desirous of information, as far as the next tavern, where he is seldom -suffered to remain for five minutes, till he is again assailed by a -fresh set with the same questions. - -Footnote 25: - - Kentucky. - -The first town you come to, going northward from Bottetourt County, is -Lexington, a neat little place, that did contain about one hundred -houses, a court-house, and gaol; but the greater part of it was -destroyed by fire just before I got there. Great numbers of Irish are -settled in this place. Thirty miles farther on stands Staunton. This -town carries on a considerable trade with the back country, and contains -nearly two hundred dwellings, mostly built of stone, together with a -church. This was the first place on the entire road from Lynchburgh, one -hundred and fifty miles distant, and which I was about ten days in -travelling, where I was not able to get a bit of fresh meat, excepting -indeed on passing the Blue Mountains, where they brought me some venison -that had been just killed. I went on fifty miles further, from Staunton, -before I got any again. Salted pork, boiled with turnip tops by way of -greens, or fried bacon, or fried salted fish, with warm sallad, dressed -with vinegar and the melted fat which remains in the frying-pan after -dressing the bacon, is the only food to be got at most of the taverns in -this country; in spring it is the constant food of the people in the -country; and indeed, throughout the whole year, I am told, salted meat -is what they most generally use. - -In every part of America a European is surprised at finding so many men -with military titles, and still more so at seeing such numbers of them -employed in capacities apparently so inconsistent with their rank; for -it is nothing uncommon to see a captain in the shape of a waggoner, a -colonel the driver of a stage coach, or a general dealing out penny -ribbon behind his counter; but no where, I believe, is there such a -superfluity of these military personages as in the little town of -Staunton; there is hardly a decent person in it, excepting lawyers and -medical men, but what is a colonel, a major, or a captain. This is to be -accounted for as follows: in America, every freeman from the age of -sixteen to fifty years, whose occupation does not absolutely forbid it, -must enrol himself in the militia. In Virginia alone, the militia -amounts to about sixty-two thousand men, and it is divided into four -divisions and seventeen brigades, to each of which there is a general -and other officers. Were there no officers therefore, excepting those -actually belonging to the militia, the number must be very great; but -independent of the militia, there are also volunteer corps in most of -the towns, which have likewise their respective officers. In Staunton -there are two of these corps, one of cavalry, the other of artillery. -These are formed chiefly of men who find a certain degree of amusement -in exercising as soldiers, and who are also induced to associate, by the -vanity of appearing in regimentals. The militia is not assembled oftener -than once in two or three months, and as it rests with every individual -to provide himself with arms and accoutrements, and no stress being laid -upon coming in uniform, the appearance of the men is not very military. -Numbers also of the officers of these volunteer corps, and of the -militia, are resigning every day; and if a man has been a captain or a -colonel but one day either in the one body or the other, it seems to be -an established rule that he is to have nominal rank the rest of his -life. Added to all, there are several officers of the old continental -army neither in the militia nor in the volunteer corps. - -Winchester stands one hundred miles to the northward of Staunton, and is -the largest town in the United States on the western side of the Blue -Mountains. The houses are estimated at three hundred and fifty, and the -inhabitants at two thousand. There are four churches in this town, -which, as well as the houses, are plainly built. The streets are -regular, but very narrow. There is nothing particularly deserving of -attention in this place, nor indeed in any of the other small towns -which have been mentioned, none of them containing more than seventy -houses each. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XVIII. - -_Description of the Passage of Patowmac and Shenandoah Rivers through a - Break in the Blue Mountains.—Some Observations on Mr. Jefferson’s - Account of the Scene.—Summary Account of Maryland.—Arrival at - Philadelphia.—Remarks on the Climate of the United States.—State of - the City of Philadelphia during the Heat of Summer.—Difficulty of - preserving Butter, Milk, Meat, Fish, &c.—General Use of Ice.—Of the - Winds.—State of Weather in America depends greatly upon them._ - - - Philadelphia, June. - -HAVING traversed, in various directions, the country to the west of the -Blue Mountains in Virginia, I came to the Patowmac, at the place where -that river passes through the Blue Ridge, which Mr. Jefferson, in his -Notes upon Virginia, has represented as one of the soft “stupendous -scenes in nature, and worth a voyage across the Atlantic.” The approach -towards the place is wild and romantic. After crossing a number of small -hills, which rise one above the other in succession, you at last -perceive the break in the Blue Ridge; at the same time the road suddenly -turning, winds down a long and deep hill, shaded with lofty trees, whose -branches unite over your head. On one side of the road there are large -heaps of rocks above you, which seem to threaten destruction to any one -that passes under them; on the other, a deep precipice presents itself, -at the bottom of which is heard the roaring of the waters, that are -concealed from the eye by the thickness of the foliage. Towards the end -of this hill, about sixty feet above the level of the water, stands a -tavern and a few houses, and from some fields in the rear of them the -passage of the river through the mountain is, I think, seen to the best -advantage. - -[Sidenote: PASSAGE OF RIVERS.] - -The Patowmac on the left comes winding along through a fertile country -towards the mountain; on the right flows the Shenandoah: uniting -together at the foot of the mountain, they roll on through the gap; then -suddenly expanding to the breadth of about four hundred yards, they pass -on towards the sea, and are finally lost to the view amidst surrounding -hills. The rugged appearance of the sides of the mountain towards the -river, and the large rocks that lie scattered about at the bottom, many -of which have evidently been split asunder by some great convulsion, -“are monuments,” as Mr. Jefferson observes, of the “war that has taken -place at this spot between rivers and mountains; and at first sight they -lead us into an opinion that mountains were created before rivers began -to flow; that the waters of the Patowmac and Shenandoah were dammed up -for a time by the Blue Ridge, but continuing to rise, that they at -length broke through at this spot, and tore the mountain asunder from -its summit to its base.” Certain it is, that if the Blue Ridge could be -again made entire, an immense body of water would be formed on the -western side of it, by the Shenandoah and Patowmac rivers, and this body -of water would be deepest, and consequently would act with more force in -sapping a passage for itself through the mountain, at the identical spot -where the gap now is than at any other, for this is the lowest spot in a -very extended tract of country. A glance at the map will be sufficient -to satisfy any person on this point; it will at once be seen, that all -the rivers of the adjacent country bend their courses hitherwards. -Whether the ridge, however, was left originally entire, or whether a -break was left in it for the passage of the rivers, it is impossible at -this day to ascertain; but it is very evident that the sides of the gap -have been reduced to their present rugged state by some great -inundation. Indeed, supposing that the Patowmac and Shenandoah ever rose -during a flood, a common circumstance in spring and autumn, only equally -high with what James River did in 1795, that is fifteen feet above their -usual level, such a circumstance might have occasioned a very material -alteration in the appearance of the gap. - -[Sidenote: ROCKS LOOSENED.] - -The Blue Ridge, on each side of the Patowmac, is formed, from the -foundation to the summit, of large rocks deposited in beds of rich soft -earth. This earth is very readily washed away, and in that case the -rocks consequently become loose; indeed, they are frequently loosened -even by heavy showers of rain. A proof of this came within my own -observation, which I shall never forget. It had been raining excessively -hard the whole morning of that day on which I arrived at this place; the -evening however was very fine, and being anxious to behold the scene in -every point of view, I crossed the river, and attended the mountain at a -steep part on the opposite side, where there was no path, and many large -projecting rocks. I had walked up about fifty yards, when a large stone -that I set my foot upon, and which appeared to me perfectly firm, all at -once gave way; it had been loosened by the rain, and brought down such a -heap of others with it in its fall, with such a tremendous noise at the -same time, that I thought the whole mountain was coming upon me, and -expected every moment to be dashed to pieces. I slid down about twenty -feet, and then luckily caught hold of the branch of a tree, by which I -clung; but the stones still continued to roll down heap after heap; -several times, likewise, after all had been still for a minute or two, -they again began to fall with increased violence. In this state of -suspense I was kept for a considerable time, not knowing but that some -stone larger than the rest might give way, and carry down with it even -the tree by which I held. Unacquainted also with the paths of the -mountain, there seemed to me to be no other way of getting down, -excepting over the fallen stones, a way which I contemplated with -horror. Night however was coming on very fast; it was absolutely -necessary to quit the situation I was in, and fortunately I got to the -bottom without receiving any further injury than two or three slight -contusions on my hips and elbows. The people congratulated me when I -came back on my escape, and informed me, that the stones very commonly -gave way in this manner after heavy falls of rain; but on the -dissolution of a large body of snow, immense rocks, they said, would -sometimes roll down with a crash that might be heard for miles. The -consequences then of a large rock towards the bottom of the mountain -being undermined by a flood, and giving way, may be very readily -imagined: the rock above it, robbed of its support, would also fall; -this would bring down with it numbers of others with which it was -connected, and thus a disruption would be produced from the base to the -very summit of the mountain. - -[Sidenote: IRON.] - -The passage of the rivers through the ridge at this place is certainly a -curious scene, and deserving of attention; but I am far from thinking -with Mr. Jefferson, that it is “one of the most stupendous scenes in -nature, and worth a voyage across the Atlantic;” nor has it been my lot -to meet with any person that had been a spectator of the scene, after -reading his description of it, but what also differed with him very -materially in opinion. To find numberless scenes more stupendous, it -would be needless to go farther than Wales. A river, it is true, is not -to be met with in that country, equal in size to the Patowmac; but many -are to be seen there rushing over their stony beds with much more -turbulence and impetuosity than either the Patowmac or Shenandoah: the -rocks, the precipices, and the mountains of the Blue Ridge at this place -are diminutive and uninteresting also, compared with those which abound -in that country. Indeed, from every part of Mr. Jefferson’s description, -it appears as if he had beheld the scene, not in its present state, but -at the very moment when the disruption happened, and when every thing -was in a state of tumult and confusion. - -After crossing the Patowmac, I passed on to Frederic in Maryland, which -has already been mentioned, and from thence to Baltimore. The country -between Frederic and Baltimore is by no means so rich as that west of -the Blue Ridge, but it is tolerably well cultivated. Iron and copper are -found here in many places. No works of any consequence have as yet been -established for the manufacture of copper, but there are several -extensive iron works. The iron is of a remarkably tough quality; indeed, -throughout the states of Maryland, Virginia, and Pennsylvania, it is -generally so; and the utensils made of it, as pots, kettles, &c. though -cast much thinner than usual in England, will admit of being pitched -into the carts, and thrown about, without any danger of being broken. -The forges and furnaces are all worked by negroes, who seem to be -particularly suited to such an occupation, not only on account of their -sable complexions, but because they can sustain a much greater degree of -heat than white persons without any inconvenience. In the hottest days -in summer they are never without fires in their huts. - -The farms and plantations in Maryland consist, in general, of from one -hundred to one thousand acres. In the upper parts of the state, towards -the mountains, the land is divided into small portions. Grain is what is -principally cultivated, and there are few slaves. In the lower parts of -the state, and in this part of the country between Frederic and -Baltimore, the plantations are extensive; large quantities of tobacco -are raised, and the labour is performed almost entirely by negroes. The -persons residing upon these large plantations live very similar to the -planters in Virginia: all of them have their stewards and overseers, and -they give themselves but little trouble about the management of the -lands. As in Virginia, the clothing for the slaves, and most of the -implements for husbandry, are manufactured on each estate. The quarters -of the slaves are situated in the neighbourhood of the principal -dwelling house, which gives the residence of every planter the -appearance of a little village, just the same as in Virginia. The houses -are for the most part built of wood, and painted with Spanish brown; and -in front there is generally a long porch, painted white. - -[Sidenote: WEATHER.] - -[Sidenote: CLIMATE.] - -From Baltimore I returned to Philadelphia, where I arrived on the -fourteenth day of June, after having been absent about three months. -During the whole of that period the weather had been extremely variable, -scarcely ever remaining alike four days together. As early as the -fourteenth of March, in Pennsylvania, Fahrenheit’s thermometer stood at -65° at noon day, though not more than a week before it had been so low -as 14°. At the latter end of the month, in Maryland, I scarcely ever -observed it higher than 50° at noon: the evenings were always cold, and -the weather was squally and wet. In the northern neck of Virginia, for -two or three days together, during the second week in April, it rose -from 80° to 84°, in the middle of the day; but on the wind suddenly -shifting, it fell again, and remained below 70° for some days. As I -passed along through the lower parts of Virginia, I frequently -afterwards observed it as high as 80° during the month of April; but on -no day in the month of May, previous to the fourteenth, did it again -rise to the same height; indeed, so far from it, many of the days were -too cold to be without fires; and on the night of the ninth instant, -when I was in the neighbourhood of the South-west Mountains, so sharp a -frost took place, that it destroyed all the cherries, and also most of -the early wheat, and of the young shoots of Indian corn; in some -particular places, for miles together, the young leaves of the forest -trees even were all withered, and the country had exactly the appearance -of November. On the tenth instant, the day after the frost, the -thermometer was as low as 46° in the middle of the day; yet four days -afterwards it stood at 81°. During the remainder of the month, and -during June, until I reached Philadelphia, it fluctuated between 60° and -80°; the weather was on the whole fine, but frequently for a day or two -together the air felt extremely raw and disagreeable. The changes in the -state of the atmosphere were also sometimes very sudden. On the sixth -day of June, when on my way to Frederic-town, after passing the Patowmac -River, the most remarkable change of this nature took place which I ever -witnessed. The morning had been oppressively hot; the thermometer at -81°, and the wind S. S. W. About one o’clock in the afternoon, a black -cloud appeared in the horizon, and a tremendous gust came on, -accompanied by thunder and lightning; several large trees were torn up -by the roots by the wind; hailstones, about three times the size of an -ordinary pea, fell for a few minutes, and afterwards a torrent of rain -came pouring down, nearly as if a water-spout had broken over head. Just -before the gust came on, I had suspended my thermometer from a window -with a northern aspect, when it stood at 81°; but on looking at it at -the end of twenty-three minutes, by which time the gust was completely -over, I found it down to 59°, a change of 22°. A north-west wind now set -in, the evening was most delightful, and the thermometer again rose to -65°. In Pennsylvania the thermometer has been known to vary fifty -degrees in the space of twenty-six hours. - -The climate of the middle and southern states is extremely variable; the -seasons of two succeeding years are seldom alike; and it scarcely ever -happens that a month passes over without very great vicissitudes in the -weather taking place. Doctor Rittenhouse remarked, that whilst he -resided in Pennsylvania, he discovered nightly frosts in every month of -the year excepting July, and even in that month, during which the heat -is always greater than at any other time of the year, a cold day or two -sometimes intervene, when a fire is found very agreeable. - -The climate of the state of New York is very similar to that of -Pennsylvania, excepting that in the northern parts of that state, -bordering upon Canada, the winters are always severe and long. The -climate of New Jersey, Delaware, and the upper parts of Maryland, is -also much the same with that of Pennsylvania; in the lower parts of -Maryland the climate does not differ materially from that of Virginia to -the eastward of the Blue Ridge, where it very rarely happens that the -thermometer is as low as 6° above cipher. - -In Pennsylvania, the range of the mercury in Fahrenheit’s thermometer -has been observed to be from 24° below cipher to 105° above it; but it -is an unusual occurrence for the mercury to stand at either of these -extreme points; in its approach towards them it commonly draws much -nearer to the extreme of heat than to that of cold. During the winter of -1795, and the three preceding years, it did not sink lower than 10° -above cipher; a summer however seldom passes over that it does not rise -to 96°. It was mentioned as a singular circumstance, that in 1789 the -thermometer never rose higher than 90°. - -[Sidenote: CLIMATE.] - -Of the oppression that is felt from the summer heats in America, no -accurate idea can be formed without knowing the exact state of the -hygrometer as well as the height of the thermometer. The moisture of the -air varies very much in different parts of the country; it also varies -in all parts with the winds; and it is surprising to find what a much -greater degree of heat can be borne without inconvenience when the air -is dry than when it is moist. In New England, in a remarkably dry air, -the heat is not found more insupportable when the thermometer stands at -100°, than it is in the lower parts of the southern states, where the -air is moist, when the thermometer stands perhaps at 90°, that is, -supposing the wind to be in the same quarter in both places. In speaking -of Virginia I have taken notice of the great difference that is found -between the climate of the mountains and the climate of the low country -in that state. The case is the same in every other part of the country. -From the mountains in New England, along the different ridges which run -through New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and the southern -states, even to the extremity of Georgia, the heat is never found very -oppressive; whilst as far north as Pennsylvania and New York, the heat -in the low parts of the country, between the mountains and the ocean, is -frequently intolerable. - -[Sidenote: WEATHER.] - -In the course of the few days that I have spent in Philadelphia during -this month, the thermometer has risen repeatedly to 86° and for two or -three days it stood at 93°. During these days no one stirred out of -doors that was not compelled to do so; those that could make it -convenient with their business always walked with umbrellas to shade -them from the sun; light white hats were universally worn, and the young -men appeared dressed in cotton or linen jackets and trowsers; every -gleam of sunshine seemed to be considered as baneful and destructive; -the window shutters of each house were closed early in the morning, so -as to admit no more light than what was absolutely necessary for -domestic business; many of the houses, indeed, were kept so dark, that -on going into them from the street, it was impossible at first entrance -to perceive who was present. The best houses in the city are furnished -with Venetian blinds, at the outside, to the windows and hall doors, -which are made to fold together like common window shutters. Where they -had these they constantly kept them closed, and the windows and doors -were left open behind them to admit air. A very different scene was -presented in the city as soon as the sun was set; every house was then -thrown open, and the inhabitants all crowded into the streets to take -their evening walks, and visit their acquaintance. It appeared every -night as if some grand spectacle was to be exhibited, for not a street -or alley was there but what was in a state of commotion. This varied -scene usually lasted till about ten o’clock; at eleven there is no city -in the world, perhaps, so quiet all the year round; at that hour you may -walk over half the town without seeing the face of a human being, except -the watchmen. Very heavy dews sometimes fall after these hot days, as -soon as the sun is down, and the nights are then found very cold; at -other times there are no dews, and the air remains hot all the night -through. For days together in Philadelphia, the thermometer has been -observed never to be lower than 80° during any part of the twenty-four -hours. - -I observe now that meat can never be kept, but in an ice house or a -remarkable cold cellar, for one day, without being tainted. Milk -generally turns sour in the course of one or two hours after it comes -from the cow. Fish is never brought to market without being covered with -lumps of ice, and notwithstanding that care, it frequently happens that -it is not fit to be eat. Butter is brought to market likewise in ice, -which they generally have in great plenty at every farm house; indeed it -is almost considered as a necessary of life in these low parts of the -country. Poultry intended for dinner is never killed till about four -hours before the time it is wanted, and then it is kept immersed in -water, without which precaution it would be tainted. Notwithstanding all -this, I have been told, that were I to stay in Philadelphia till the -latter end of July or beginning of August, I should find the heat much -more intolerable than it has been hitherto. Most of the other large -sea-port towns, south of Philadelphia, are equally hot and disagreeable -in summer; and Baltimore, Norfolk, and some others, even more so. - -The winds in every part of the country make a prodigious difference in -the temperature of the air. When the north-west wind blows, the heat is -always found more tolerable than with any other, although the -thermometer should be at the same height. This wind is uncommonly dry, -and brings with it fresh animation and vigour to every living thing. -Although this wind is so very piercing in winter, yet I think the people -never complain so much of cold as when the north-east wind blows; for my -own part I never found the air so agreeable, let the season of the year -be what it would, as with the north-west wind. The north-east wind is -also cold, but it renders the air raw and damp. That from the south-east -is damp but warm. Rain or snow usually falls when the wind comes from -any point towards the east. The south-west wind, like the north-west, is -dry; but it is attended generally with warm weather. When in a southerly -point, gusts, as they are called, that is, storms attended with thunder, -lightning, hail, and rain, are common. - -[Sidenote: WINDS.] - -It is a matter of no difficulty to account for these various effects of -the winds in America. The north-west wind, from coming over such an -immense tract of land, must necessarily be dry; and coming from regions -eternally covered with mounds of snow and ice, it must also be cold. The -north-east wind, from traversing the frozen seas, must be cold likewise; -but from passing over such a large portion of the watry main afterwards, -it brings damps and moistures with it. All those from the east are damp, -and loaded with vapours, from the same cause. Southerly winds, from -crossing the warm regions between the tropics, are attended with heat; -and the south-west wind, from passing, like the north-west, over a great -extent of land, is dry at the same time; none however is so dry as that -from the north-west. It is said, but with what truth I cannot take upon -me to say, that west of the Alleghany and Appalachian mountains, which -are all in the same range, the south-west winds are cold and attended -with rain. Those great extremes of heat and cold, observable on the -eastern side of the mountains, are unknown to the westward of them. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XIX. - -_Travelling in America without a Companion not pleasant.—Meet - two English Gentlemen.—Set out together for Canada.—Description - of the Country between Philadelphia and New - York.—Bristol.—Trenton.—Princeton.—College there.—Some Account of - it.—Brunswick.—Posaik Water-fall.—Copper Mine.—Singular Discovery - thereof.—New York.—Description of the City.—Character and Manners of - the Inhabitants.—Leave it abruptly on Account of the Fevers.—Passage - up North River from New York to Albany.—Great Beauty of the North - River.—West Point.—Highlands.—Gusts of Wind common in passing - them.—Albany.—Description of the City and Inhabitants.—Celebration of - the 4th of July.—Anniversary of American Independence._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, Albany, July. - -[Sidenote: PLEASURES OF A COMPANION.] - - -I Was on the point of leaving Philadelphia for New York, intending from -thence to proceed to Canada, when chance brought me into the company of -two young gentlemen from England, each of whom was separately preparing -to set off on a similar excursion. A rational and agreeable companion, -to whom you might communicate the result of your observations, and with -whom you might interchange sentiments on all occasions, could not but be -deemed a pleasing acquisition, I should imagine, by a person on a -journey through a foreign land. Were any one to be found, however, of a -different opinion, I should venture to affirm, that ere he travelled far -through the United States of America, where there are so few inhabitants -in proportion to the extent of the country; where, in going from one -town to another, it is frequently necessary to pass for many miles -together through dreary woods; and where, even in the towns, a few of -those sea-ports indeed excepted which are open to the Atlantic, there is -such sameness in the customs, manners, and conversation of the -inhabitants, and so little amongst them that interests either the head -or the heart; he would not only be induced to think that a companion -must add to the pleasure of a journey, but were absolutely necessary to -prevent its appearing insipid, and at times highly irksome to him. - -For my own part, I had fully determined in my own mind, upon returning -from my tour beyond the Blue Mountains, never again to set out on a -journey alone through any part of America, if I could possibly procure -an agreeable companion. The gentlemen I met with had, as well as myself, -travelled widely through different parts of the United States, and -formed nearly the same resolution; we accordingly agreed to go forward -to Canada together, and having engaged a carriage for ourselves as far -as New York, we quitted the close and disagreeable city of Philadelphia -on the twentieth of June. - -The road, for the first twenty-five miles, runs very near the River -Delaware, which appears to great advantage through openings in the woods -that are scattered along its shores. From the town of Bristol in -particular, which stands on an elevated part of the banks, twenty miles -above Philadelphia, it is seen in a most pleasing point of view. The -river, here about one mile wide, winds majestically round the point -whereon the town is built, and for many miles, both upwards and -downwards, it may be traced through a rich country, flowing gently -along: in general it is covered with innumerable little sloops and -schooners. Opposite to Bristol stands the city of Burlington, one of the -largest in New Jersey, built partly upon an island and partly on the -main shore. It makes a good appearance, and adds considerably to the -beauty of the prospect from Bristol. - -Ten miles farther on, opposite to Trenton, which stands at the head of -the sloop navigation, you cross the river. The falls or rapids, that -prevent boats from ascending any higher, appear in full view as you -pass, but their prospect is in no way pleasing; beyond them, the -navigation may be pursued for upwards of one hundred miles in small -boats. Trenton is the capital of New Jersey, and contains about two -hundred houses, together with four churches. The streets are commodious, -and the houses neatly built. The state house, in which congress met for -some time during the war, is a heavy clumsy edifice. - -[Sidenote: PRINCETON.] - -Twelve miles from Trenton, stands Princeton, a neat town, containing -about eighty dwellings in one long street. Here is a large college, held -in much repute by the neighbouring states. The number of students -amounts to upwards of seventy; from their appearance, however, and the -course of studies they seem to be engaged in, like all the other -American colleges I ever saw, it better deserves the title of a grammar -school than a college. The library, which we were shewn, is most -wretched, consisting, for the most part, of old theological books, not -even arranged with any regularity. An orrery, contrived by Mr. -Rittenhouse, whose talents are so much boasted of by his countrymen, -stands at one end of the apartment, but it is quite out of repair, as -well as a few detached parts of a philosophical apparatus, enclosed in -the same glass case. At the opposite end of the room are two small -cupboards, which are shewn as the museum. These contain a couple of -small stuffed alligators, and a few singular fishes, in a miserable -state of preservation, the skins of them being tattered in innumerable -places, from their being repeatedly tossed about. The building is very -plain, and of stone; it is one hundred and eighty feet in front, and -four stories high. - -[Sidenote: NEW JERSEY.] - -The next stage from Princeton is Brunswick, containing about two hundred -houses; there is nothing very deserving of attention in it, excepting it -be the very neat and commodious wooden bridge that has been thrown -across the Raritan River, which is about two hundred paces over. The -part over the channel is contrived to draw up, and on each side is a -footway guarded by rails, and ornamented with lamps. Elizabeth Town and -Newark, which you afterwards pass through in succession, are both of -them cheerful lively looking places: neither of them is paved. Newark is -built in a straggling manner, and has very much the appearance of a -large English village: there is agreeable society in this town. These -two towns are only eight miles apart, and each of them has one or two -excellent churches, whose tall spires appear very beautiful as you -approach at a distance, peeping up above the woods by which they are -encircled. - -The state of New Jersey, measured from north to south, is about one -hundred and sixty miles in length; it varies in breadth from forty to -eighty miles. The northern part of it is crossed by the blue ridge of -mountains, running through Pennsylvania; and shooting off in different -directions from this ridge, there are several other small mountains in -the neighbourhood. The southern part of the state, on the contrary, -which lies towards the sea, is extremely flat and sandy; it is covered -for miles together with pine trees alone, usually called pine barrens, -and is very little cultivated. The middle part, which is crossed in -going from Philadelphia to New York, abounds with extensive traits of -good land; the soil varies, however, considerably, in some places being -sandy, in others stoney, and in others consisting of a rich brown mould. -This part of the state, as far as Newark, is on the whole well -cultivated, and scattered about in different places are some excellent -farm houses; a good deal of uncleared land, however, still remains. -Beyond Newark the country is extremely flat and marshy. Between the town -and the Posaick River there is one marsh, which alone extends upwards of -twenty miles, and is about two miles wide where you pass over it. The -road is here formed with large logs of wood laid close together, and on -each side are ditches to keep it dry. This was the first place where we -met with musquitoes, and they annoyed us not a little in passing. -Towards the latter end of the summer Philadelphia is much infested with -them; but they had not made their appearance when we left that city. The -Posaik River runs close upon the borders of this marsh, and there is an -excellent wooden bridge across it, somewhat similar to that at New -Brunswick over the Raritan River. About fifteen miles above it there is -a very remarkable fall in the river. The river, at the fall, is about -forty yards wide, and flows with a gentle current till it comes within a -few perches of the edge of the fall, when it suddenly precipitates -itself, in one entire sheet, over a ledge of rocks of nearly eighty feet -in perpendicular height; below, it runs on through a chasm, formed of -immense rocks on each side; they are higher than the fall, and seem to -have been once united together. - -[Sidenote: COPPER MINE.] - -In this neighbourhood there is a very rich copper mine: repeated -attempts have been made to work it; but whether the price of labour be -too great for such an undertaking, or the proprietors have not proceeded -with judgment, certain it is, that they have always miscarried, and -sustained very considerable losses thereby. This mine was first -discovered in 1751, by a person who, passing along about three o’clock -in the morning, observed a blue flame, about the size of a man, issuing -from the earth, which afterwards soon died away: he marked the place -with a stake, and when the hill was opened, several large lumps of -virgin copper were found. The vein of copper in the mine is said to be -much richer now than when first opened. - -From the Posaik to the North River the country is hilly, barren, and -uninteresting, till you come very near the latter, when a noble view -opens all at once of the city of New York on the opposite shore, of the -harbour, and shipping. The river, which is very grand, can be traced for -several miles above the city; the banks are very steep on the Jersey -side, and beautifully wooded, the trees almost dipping into the water: -numbers of vessels plying about in every part render the scene extremely -sprightly and interesting. - -[Sidenote: NEW YORK.] - -New York is built on an island of its own name, formed by the North and -the East Rivers, and a creek or inlet connecting both of these together. -The island is fourteen miles long, and, on an average, about one mile in -breadth; at its southern extremity stands the city, which extends from -one river to the other. The North, or Hudson River, is nearly two miles -wide; the East, or the North-east one, as it should rather be called, is -not quite so broad. The depth of water in each, close to the city, is -sufficient for the largest merchant vessels. The principal seat of -trade, however, is on the East River, and most of the vessels lie there, -as during winter the navigation of that river is not so soon impeded by -the ice. At this side of the town the houses and stores are built as -closely as possible. The streets are narrow and inconvenient, and, as -but too commonly is the case in sea-port towns, very dirty, and, -consequently, during the summer season, dreadfully unhealthy. It was in -this part of the town that the yellow fever raged with such violence in -1795; and during 1796, many persons that remained very constantly there -also fell victims to a fever, which, if not the yellow fever, was very -like it. The streets near the North River are much more airy; but the -most agreeable part of the town is in the neighbourhood of the battery, -on the southern point of the island, at the confluence of the two -rivers. When New York was in possession of the English, this battery -consisted of two or more tiers of guns, one above the other; but it is -now cut down, and affords a most charming walk, and, on a summer’s -evening, is crowded with people, as it is open to the breezes from the -sea, which render it particularly agreeable at that season. There is a -fine view from it of the roads, Long and Staten Islands, and Jersey -shore. At the time of high water the scene is always interesting on -account of the number of vessels sailing in and out of port; such as go -into the East River pass within a few yards of the walls of the battery. - -From the battery a handsome street, about seventy feet wide, called -Broadway, runs due north through the town; between it and the North -River run several streets at right angles, as you pass which you catch a -view of the water, and boats plying up and down; the distant shore of -the river also is seen to great advantage. Had the streets on the -opposite side of Broadway been also carried down to the East River, the -effect would have been beautiful, for Broadway runs along a ridge or -high ground between the two rivers; it would have contributed also very -much to the health of the place; if, added to this, a spacious quay had -been formed the entire length of the city, on either side, instead of -having the borders of the rivers crowded with confused heaps of wooden -store houses, built upon wharfs projecting one beyond another in every -direction, New York would have been one of the most beautiful sea-ports -in the world. All the sea-ports in America appear to great disadvantage -from the water, when you approach near to them, from the shores being -crowded in this manner with irregular masses of wooden houses, standing -as it were in the water. The federal city, where they have already begun -to erect the same kind of wooden wharfs and storehouses without any -regularity, will be just the same. It is astonishing, that in laying out -that city a grand quay was not thought of in the plan; it would -certainly have afforded equal, if not greater accommodation for the -shipping, and it would have added wonderfully to the embellishment of -the city. - -Many of the private houses in New York are very good, particularly those -in Broadway. Of the public buildings there are none which are very -striking. The churches and houses for public worship amount to no less -than twenty-two; four of them are for Presbyterians, three for -Episcopalians of the church of England, three for Dutch Reformists, two -for German Lutherans and Calvinists, two for Quakers, two for Baptists, -two for Methodists, one for French Protestants, one for Moravians, one -for Roman Catholics, and one for Jews. - -[Sidenote: INHABITANTS.] - -According to the census in 1790, the number of inhabitants in New York -was found to be thirty thousand one hundred and forty-eight free -persons, and two thousand one hundred and eighty slaves; but at present -the number is supposed to amount at least to forty thousand. The -inhabitants have long been distinguished above those of all the other -towns in the United States, except it be the people of Charleston, for -their politeness, gaiety, and hospitality; and, indeed, in these points -they are most strikingly superior to the inhabitants of the other large -towns. Their public amusements consist in dancing and card assemblies, -and theatrical exhibitions; for the former a spacious suite of rooms has -lately been, erected. The theatre is of wood, and a most miserable -edifice it is; but a new one is now building on a grand scale, which, it -is thought, will be as much too large for the town as the other is too -small. - -[Sidenote: PASSAGE TO ALBANY.] - -Being anxious to proceed on our journey before the season was too far -advanced, and also particularly desirous of quitting New York on account -of the fevers, which, it was rumoured, were increasing very fast, we -took our passage for Albany in one of the sloops trading constantly on -the North River, between New York and that place, and embarked on the -second day of July, about two o’clock in the afternoon. Scarcely a -breath of air was stirring at the time; but the tide carried us up at -the rate of about two miles and a half an hour. The sky remained all day -as serene as possible, and as the water was perfectly smooth, it -reflected in a most beautiful manner the images of the various objects -on the shore, and of the numerous vessels dispersed along the river at -different distances, and which seemed to glide along, as it were, by the -power of magic, for the sails, all hung down loose and motionless. The -sun, setting in all his glory, added fresh beauties to this calm and -peaceable scene, and permitted us for the last time to behold the -distant spires of New York, illumined by his parting rays. To describe -all the grand and beautiful prospects presented to the view on passing -along this noble river, would be an endless talk; all the various -effects that can be supposed to arise from a happy combination of wood -and water, of hill and dale, are here seen in the greatest perfection. -In some places the river expands to the breadth of five or six miles, in -others it narrows to that of a few hundred yards, and in various parts -it is interspersed with islands; in some places again its course can be -traced as far as the eye can reach, whilst in others it is suddenly lost -to the view, as it winds between its lofty banks; here mountains covered -with rocks and trees rise almost perpendicularly out of the water; there -a fine champaign country presents itself, cultivated to the very margin -of the river, whilst neat farm houses and distant towns embellish the -charming landscapes. - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _on the_ HUDSON RIVER -] - -After sunset, a brisk wind sprang up, which carried us on at the rate of -six or seven miles an hour for a considerable part of the night; but for -some hours we had to lie at anchor at a place where the navigation of -the river was too difficult to proceed in the dark. Our sloop was no -more than seventy tons burthen by register; but the accommodations she -afforded were most excellent, and far superior to what might be expected -on board so small a vessel; the cabin was equally large with that in a -common merchant vessel of three hundred tons, built for crossing the -ocean. This was owing to the great breadth of her beam, which was no -less than twenty-two feet and a half although her length was only -fifty-five feet. All the sloops engaged in this trade are built nearly -on the same construction; short, broad, and very shallow, few of them -draw more than five or six feet water, so that they are only calculated -for sailing upon smooth water. - -Early the next morning we found ourselves opposite to West Point, a -place rendered remarkable in history by the desertion of General Arnold, -during the American war, and the consequent death of the unfortunate -Major André. The fort stands about one hundred and fifty feet above the -level of the water, on the side of a barren hill; no human creature -appearing in it except the solitary sentinel, who marched backwards and -forwards on the ramparts overgrown with long grass, it had a most -melancholy aspect that perhaps was heightened by the gloominess of the -morning, and the recollection of all the circumstances attending the -unhappy fate of poor André. - -Near West Point there is also another post, called Fort Putnam, which, -since the peace, has been suffered to get very much out of repair; -however, steps are now taking to have it put in good order. Supposing -that a rupture should ever unfortunately again take place between Great -Britain and the United States of America, these posts would be of the -greatest consequence, as they form a link in that chain of posts which -extend the whole way along the navigable waters that connect the British -settlements with New York. - -[Sidenote: ALBANY.] - -In this neighbourhood the highlands, as they are called, commence, and -extend along the river on each side for several miles. The breadth of -the river is here considerably contracted, and such sudden gusts of -wind, coming from between the mountains, sometimes blow through the -narrow passes, that vessels frequently have their topmasts carried away. -The captain of the sloop we were in, said, that his mainsail was once -blown into tatters in an instant, and a part of it carried on shore. -When the sky is lowering, they usually take in sail going along this -part of the river. - -About four o’clock in the morning of the fourth of July we reached -Albany, the place of our destination, one hundred and sixty miles -distant from New York. - -Albany is a city, and contains about eleven hundred houses; the number -however is increasing fast, particularly since the removal of the state -government from New York. In the old part of the town the streets are -very narrow and the houses are frightful; they are all built in the old -Dutch taste, with the gable end towards the street, and ornamented on -the top with large iron weather cocks; but in that part which has been -lately erected, the streets are commodious, and many of the houses are -handsome. Great pains have been taken to have the streets well paved and -lighted. Here are four places for public worship, and an hospital. -Albany is in summer time a very disagreeable place; it stands in a low -situation, just on the margin of the river, which runs very slowly here, -and towards the evening often exhales clouds of vapours; immediately -behind the town, likewise, is a large sand bank, that prevents a free -circulation of air, while at the same time it powerfully reflects the -rays of the sun, which shines in full force upon it the whole day. -Notwithstanding all this, however, the climate is deemed very -salubrious. - -The inhabitants of this place, a few years ago, were almost entirely of -Dutch extraction; but now strangers are flocking to it from all -quarters, as there are few places in America more advantageously -situated for commerce. The flourishing state of its trade has already -been mentioned; it bids fair to rival that of New York in process of -time. - -[Sidenote: ALBANY.] - -The fourth of July, the day of our arrival at Albany, was the -anniversary of the declaration of American independence, and on our -arrival we were told that great preparations were making for its -celebration[26]. A drum and trumpet, towards the middle of the day, gave -notice of the commencement of the rejoicings, and on walking to a hill -about a quarter of a mile from the town, we saw sixty men drawn up, -partly militia, partly volunteers, partly infantry, partly cavalry; the -latter were clothed in scarlet, and mounted on horses of various -descriptions. About three hundred spectators attended. A few rounds were -fired from a three pounder, and some volleys of small arms. The firing -was finished before one hour was expired, and then the troops returned -to town, a party of militia officers in uniform marching in the rear, -under the shade of umbrellas, as the day was excessively hot. Having -reached town, the whole body immediately dispersed. The volunteers and -militia officers afterwards dined together, and so ended the rejoicings -of the day; no public ball, no general entertainment was there of any -description. A day still fresh in the memory of every American, and -which appears so glorious in the annals of their country, would, it -might be expected, have called forth more brilliant and more general -rejoicings; but the downright phlegmatic people in this neighbourhood, -intent upon making money, and enjoying the solid advantages of the -revolution, are but little disposed to waste their time in what they -consider idle demonstrations of joy. - -Footnote 26: - - Our landlord, as soon as he found out who we were, immediately came to - us, to request that we would excuse the confused state in which his - house was, as this was the anniversary day of “American Independence,” - or, as some, indeed, more properly called it, of “American - Repentance.” We were all of us not a little surprised at this address, - and from such a person; instances, however, are not wanting of people - openly declaring, that they have never enjoyed so much quiet and - happiness in their own homes since the revolution as they did when the - states were the colonies of Great Britain. Amongst the planters in - Virginia I heard language of this sort more than once. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XX. - -_Departure from Albany.—Difficulty of hiring a Carriage.—Arrival - at Cohoz.—Description of the curious Fall there of the - Mohawk River.—Still-water.—Saratoga.—Few of the Works - remaining there.—Singular Mineral Springs near Saratoga.—Fort - Edward.—Miss M‘Crea cruelly murdered there by Indians.—Fort Ann, - wretched Road thither.—Some Observations on the American - Woods.—Horses jaded.—Difficulty of getting forward.—Arrive at - Skenesborough.—Dreadfully infested by Musquitoes.—Particular - Description of that Insect.—Great Danger ensues sometimes from their - Bite.—Best Remedy._ - - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _of the_ COHOZ FALL. -] - - MY DEAR SIR, Skenesborough, July. - -[Sidenote: COHOZ FALL.] - - -WE remained in Albany for a few days, and then set off for -Skenesborough, upon Lake Champlain, in a carriage hired for the purpose. -The hiring of this vehicle was a matter attended with some trouble, and -detained us longer in the town than we wished to stay. There were only -two carriages to be had in the whole place, and the owners having an -understanding with each other, and thinking that we should be forced to -give whatever price they asked, positively refused to let us have either -of them for less than seventy dollars, equal to fifteen guineas. We on -our part as positively refused to comply with a demand which we knew to -be exorbitant, and resolved to wait patiently in Albany for some other -conveyance, rather than submit to such an imposition. The fellows held -out for two days, but at the end of that time one of them came to tell -us we might have his carriage for half the price, and accordingly we -took it. - -Early the next morning we set off, and in about two hours arrived at the -small village of Cohoz, close to which is the remarkable fall in the -Mohawk River. This river takes its rise to the north-east of Lake -Oneida, and after a course of one hundred and forty miles, disembogues -into the Hudson or North River, about ten miles above Albany. The Cohoz -Fall is about three miles distant from its mouth. The breadth of the -river is three hundred yards; a ledge of rocks extends quite across, and -from the top of them the water falls about fifty feet perpendicular; the -line of the fall from one side of the river to the other is nearly -straight. The appearance of this fall varies very much, according to the -quantity of water; when the river is full, the water descends in an -unbroken sheet from one bank to the other, whilst at other times the -greater part of the rocks are left uncovered. The rocks are of a -remarkable dark colour, and so also is the earth in the banks, which -rise to a great height on either side. There is a very pleasing view of -this cataract as you pass over the bridge across the river, about three -quarters of a mile lower down. - -From hence we proceeded along the banks of the Hudson River, through the -town of Still-water, which receives its name from the uncommon stillness -of the river opposite to it, and late in the evening reached Saratoga, -thirty-five miles from Albany. This place contains about forty houses, -and a Dutch reformed church, but they are so scattered about that it has -not the smallest appearance of a town. - -[Sidenote: SARATOGA.] - -In this neighbourhood, upon the borders of a marsh, are several very -remarkable mineral springs; one of them, in the crater of a rock, of a -pyramidical form, about five feet in height, is particularly curious. -This rock seems to have been formed by the petrifaction of the water: -all the other springs are likewise surrounded with petrifactions of the -same kind. The water in the principal spring, except at the beginning of -the summer, when it regularly overflows, remains about eight inches -below the rim of the crater, and bubbles up as if boiling. The crater is -nine inches in diameter. The various properties of the water have not -been yet ascertained with any great accuracy; but it is said to be -impregnated with a fossile acid and some saline substance; there is also -a great portion of fixed air in it. An opportunity is here afforded for -making some curious experiments. - -If animals be put down into the crater, they will be immediately -suffocated; but if not kept there too long they recover again upon being -brought into the open air. - -If a lighted candle be put down, the flame will be extinguished in an -instant, and not even the smallest spark left in the wick. - -If the water immediately taken from the spring be put into a bottle, -closely corked, and then shaken, either the cork will be forced out with -an explosion, or the bottle will be broken; but if lest in an open -vessel it becomes vapid in less than half an hour. The water is very -pungent to the taste, and acts as a cathartic on some people, as an -emetic on others. - -Of the works thrown up at Saratoga by the British and American armies -during the war, there are now scarcely any remains. The country round -about is well cultivated, and the trenches have been mostly levelled by -the plough. We here crossed the Hudson River, and proceeded along its -eastern shore as far as Fort Edward, where it is lost to the view, for -the road still runs on towards the north, whilst the river takes a -sudden bend to the west. - -[Sidenote: FORT EDWARD.] - -Fort Edward was dismantled prior to the late American war; but the -opposite armies, during that unhappy contest, were both in the -neighbourhood. Many of the people, whom we found living here, had served -as soldiers in the army, and told us a number of interesting particulars -relative to several events which happened in this quarter. The landlord -of the tavern where we stopped, for one, related all the circumstances -attending Miss M‘Crea’s death, and pointed out on a hill, not far from -the house, the very spot where she was murdered by the Indians, and the -place of her interment. This beautiful young lady had been engaged to an -officer in General Burgoyne’s army, who, anxious for her safety, as -there were several marauding parties going about in the neighbourhood -where she lived, sent a party of trusty Indians to escort her to the -camp. These Indians had partly executed their commission, and were -approaching with their charge in sight of the British camp, when they -were met by another set of Indians belonging to a different tribe, that -was also attending the British army at this time. In a few minutes it -became a matter of dispute between them which should have the honour of -conducting her to the camp; from words they came to blows, and blood was -on the point of being drawn, when one of their chiefs, to settle the -matter without farther mischief, went up to Miss M‘Crea, and killed her -on the spot with a blow of his tomahawk. The object of contention being -thus removed, the Indians returned quietly to the camp. The enormity of -the crime, however, was too great not to attract public notice, and it -turned the minds of every person against the Indians, who had not before -witnessed their ferocity on occasions equally shocking to humanity. The -impolicy of employing such barbarians was now strongly reprobated, and -in a short time afterwards most of them were dismissed from our army. - -[Sidenote: WOODS.] - -Fort Edward stands near the river. The town of the same name, is at the -distance of one or two hundred yards from it, and contains about twenty -houses. Thus far we had got on tolerably well; but from hence to Fort -Anne, which was also dismantled prior to the late war, the road is most -wretched, particularly over a long causeway between the two forts, -formed originally for the transporting of cannon, the soil here being -extremely moist and heavy. The causeway consists of large trees laid -side by side transversely, some of which having decayed, great intervals -are left, wherein the wheels of the carriage were sometimes locked so -fast that the horses alone could not possibly extricate them. To have -remained in the carriage over this part of the road would really have -been a severe punishment; for although boasted of as being the very best -in Albany, it had no sort of springs, and was in fact little better than -a common waggon; we therefore alighted, took our guns, and amused -ourselves with shooting as we walked along through the woods. The woods -here had a much more majestic appearance than any that we had before met -with on our way from Philadelphia; this, however, was owing more to the -great height than to the thickness of the trees, for I could not see one -that appeared more than thirty inches in diameter; indeed, in general, -the girt of the trees in the woods of America is but very small in -proportion to their height, and trifling in comparison of that of the -forest trees in Great Britain. The thickest tree I ever saw in the -country was a sycamore, which grew upon the banks of the Shenandoah -River, just at its junction with the Patowmac, in a bed of rich earth, -close to the water; yet this tree was no more than about four feet four -inches in diameter. On the low grounds in Kentucky, and on some of the -bottoms in the western territory, it is said that trees are commonly to -be met with seven and eight feet in diameter. Where this is the case, -the trees must certainly grow much farther apart than they do in the -woods in the middle states, towards the Atlantic, for there they spring -up so very close to each other, that it is absolutely impossible for -them to attain to a great diameter. - -The woods here were composed chiefly of oaks[27], hiccory, hemlock, and -beech trees, intermixed with which, appeared great numbers of the smooth -bark or Weymouth pines, as they are called, that seem almost peculiar to -this part of the country. A profusion of wild raspberries were growing -in the woods here, really of a very good flavour: they are commonly -found in the woods to the northward of this; in Canada they abound every -where. - -Footnote 27: - - There are upwards of twenty different kinds of oaks in America. - -[Sidenote: SKENESBOROUGH.] - -Beyond Fort Anne, which is situated at the distance of eight miles from -Fort Edward, the roads being better, we once more mounted into our -vehicle; but the miserable horses, quite jaded, now made a dead stop; in -vain the driver bawled, and stamped, and swore; his whip had been -previously worn out some hours, owing to the frequent use he had made of -it, and the animals no longer feeling its heavy lash, seemed as -determined as the mules of the abbess of Andouillets to go no farther. -In this situation we could not help bantering the fellow upon the -excellence of his cattle, which he had boasted so much of at setting -out, and he was ready to cry with vexation at what we said; but having -accidentally mentioned the sum we had paid for the carriage, his passion -could no longer be restrained, and it broke forth in all its fury. It -appeared that he was the owner of two of the horses, and for the use of -them, and for driving the carriage, was to have had one half of the -hire; but the man whom we had agreed with, and paid at Albany, had given -him only ten dollars as his moiety, assuring him, at the same time, that -it was exactly the half of what we had given, although in reality it -fell short of the sum by seven dollars and a half. Thus cheated by his -companion, and left in the lurch by his horses, he vowed vengeance -against him on his return; but as protestations of this nature would not -bring us any sooner to our journey’s end, and as it was necessary that -something should be immediately done, if we did not wish to remain all -night in the woods, we suggested the idea, in the mean time, of his -conducting the foremost horses as postillion, whilst one of our servants -should drive the pair next to the wheel. This plan was not started with -any degree of seriousness, for we could not have supposed that a tall -meagre fellow, upwards of six feet high, and clad in a pair of thin -nankeen breeches, would very readily bestride the raw boned back of a -horse, covered with the profuse exudations which the intense heat of the -weather, and the labour the animal had gone through, necessarily -excited. As much tired, however, of our pleasantries as we were of his -vehicle, and thinking of nothing, I believe, but how he could best get -rid of us, he eagerly embraced the proposal, and accordingly, having -furnished himself with a switch from the adjoining thicket, he mounted -his harnessed Rosinante. In this style we proceeded; but more than once -did our gigantic postillion turn round to bemoan the sorry choice he had -made; as often did we urge the necessity of getting out of the woods; he -could make no answer; so jogging slowly along, we at last reached the -little town of Skenesborough, much to the amusement of every one who -beheld our equipage, and much to our own satisfaction; for, owing to the -various accidents we had met with, such as traces breaking, bridles -slipping off the heads of the horses, and the noble horses themselves -sometimes slipping down, &c. &c. we had been no less than five hours in -travelling the last twelve miles. - -[Sidenote: MUSQUITOES.] - -Skenesborough stands just above the junction of Wood Creek with South -River, as it is called in the best maps, but which, by the people in the -neighbourhood, is considered as a part of Lake Champlain. At present -there are only about twelve houses in the place; but if the navigation -of Wood Creek is ever opened, so as to connect Lake Champlain with the -North River, a scheme which has already been seriously thought of, it -will, doubtless, soon become a trading town of considerable importance, -as all the various productions of the shores of the lake will then be -collected there for the New York and Albany markets. Notwithstanding all -the disadvantages of a land carriage of forty miles to the North River, -a small portion of flour and potash, the staple commodities of the state -of New York, is already sent to Skenesborough from different parts of -the lake, to be forwarded to Albany. A considerable trade also is -carried on through this place, and over Lake Champlain, between New York -and Canada. Furs and horses principally are sent from Canada, and in -return they get East Indian goods and various manufactures. Lake -Champlain opens a very ready communication between New York and the -country bordering on the St. Lawrence; it is emphatically called by the -Indians, Caniad—Eri Guarunte, the mouth or door of the country. - -[Sidenote: MUSQUITOES.] - -Skenesborough is most dreadfully infested with musquitoes; so many of -them attacked us the first night of our sleeping there, that when we -arose in the morning our faces and hands were covered all over with -large pustules, precisely like those of a person in the small pox. This -happened too notwithstanding that the people of the house, before we -went to bed, had taken all the pains possible to clear the room of them, -by fumigating it with the smoke of green wood, and afterwards securing -the windows with gauze blinds; and even on the second night, although we -destroyed many dozens of them on the walls, after a similar fumigation -had been made, yet we suffered nearly as much. These insects were of a -much larger size than any I ever saw elsewhere, and their bite was -uncommonly venomous. General Washington told me, that he never was so -much annoyed by musquitoes in any part of America as in Skenesborough, -for that they used to bite through the thickest boot. The situation of -the place is indeed peculiarly favourable for them, being just on the -margin of a piece of water, almost stagnant, and shaded with thick -woods. The musquito is of the same species with the common gnat in -England, and resembles it very closely both in size and shape. Like the -gnat it lays its eggs on the surface of the water, where they are -hatched in the course of a few days, unless the water is agitated, in -which last case they are all destroyed. From the egg is produced a grub, -which changes to a chrysalis, and afterwards to a musquito; this last -change takes place on the surface of the water, and if at the moment -that the insect first spreads its wings the water is not perfectly still -and the air calm, it will be inevitably destroyed; at those parts of the -lake, therefore, which are most exposed, and where the water is often -agitated, no such thing as a musquito is ever seen; neither are they -ever found along a large and rapid river, where the shores are lofty and -dry; but in the neighbourhood of marshes, low grounds, and stagnant -waters, they always abound. Musquitoes appear to be particularly fond of -the fresh blood of Europeans, who always suffer much more the first year -of their arrival in America than they do afterwards. The people of the -country seem quite to disregard their attacks. Wherever they fix their -sting, a little tumor or pustule usually arises, supposed to be -occasioned by the fermentation, when mixed with the blood, of a small -quantity of liquor which the insect always injects into the wound it -makes with its spicula, as may be seen through a microscope, and which -it probably does to render the blood more fluid. The disagreeable -itching this excites is most effectually allayed by the application of -volatile alkali; or if the part newly stung be scratched and immediately -bathed in cold water, that also affords considerable relief; but after -the venom has been lodged for any time, scratching only increases the -itching, and it may be attended with great danger. Repeated instances -have occurred of people having been laid up for months, and narrowly -escaping the loss of a limb, from imprudently rubbing a part which had -been bitten for a long time. Great ease is also derived from opening the -pustules on the second day with a lancet, and letting out the blood and -watery matter. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XXI. - -_Embark on Lake Champlain.—Difficulty of procuring Provisions at Farms - bordering upon it.—Ticonderoga.—Crown Point.—Great Beauty of the - Scenery.—General Description of Lake Champlain and the adjacent - Country. Captain Thomas and his Indians arrive at Crown - Point.—Character of Thomas.—Reach St. John’s.—Description of that - Place.—Great Difference observable in the Face of the Country, - Inhabitants, &c. in Canada and in the States.—Chambly - Castle.—Calashes.—Bons Dieux.—Town of La Prarie.—Great Rapidity of the - River Saint Lawrence.—Cross it to Montreal.—Astonishment on seeing - large Ships at Montreal.—Great Depth of the River._ - - - Montreal, July. - -[Sidenote: LAKE CHAMPLAIN.] - - -SHORTLY after our arrival in Skenesborough, we hired a small boat of -about ten tons for the purpose of crossing Lake Champlain. It was our -wish to proceed on the voyage immediately; but the owner of the boat -asserting that it was impossible to go out with the wind then blowing, -we were for three days detained in Skenesborough, a delicious feast for -the hungry musquitoes. The wind shifted again and again, still it was -not fair in the opinion of our boatman. At last, being most heartily -tired of our quarters, and suspecting that he did not understand his -business as well as he ought to have done, we resolved not to abide by -his opinion any longer, but to make an attempt at beating out; and we -had great reason to be pleased with having done so, as we arrived in -Canada three days before any of the other boats, that did not venture to -move till the wind was quite aft. - -We set off about one o’clock; but from the channel being very narrow, it -was impossible to make much way by tacking. We got no farther than six -miles before sun-set. We then stopped, and having landed, walked up to -some farm houses, which appeared at a distance, on the Vermont shore, to -procure provisions; for the boatman had told us it was quite unnecessary -to take in any at Skenesborough, as there were excellent houses close to -the shore the whole way, where we could get whatever we wished. At the -first we went to, which was a comfortable log-house, neither bread, nor -meat, nor milk, nor eggs, were to be had; the house was crowded with -children of all ages, and the people, I suppose, thought they had but -little enough for themselves. At a second house, we found a venerable -old man at the door, reading a news-paper, who civilly offered it to us -for our perusal, and began to talk upon the politics of the day; we -thanked him for his offer, and gave him to understand, at the same time, -that a loaf would be much more acceptable. Bread there was none; we got -a new Vermont cheese, however. A third house now remained in sight, and -we made a third attempt at procuring something to eat. This one was -nearly half a mile off, but alas! it afforded still less than the last; -the people had nothing to dispose of but a little milk. With the milk -and the cheese, therefore, we returned to our boat, and adding thereto -some biscuits and wine, which we had luckily on board, the whole -afforded us a frugal repast. - -[Sidenote: LAKE CHAMPLAIN.] - -The people at the American farm houses will cheerfully lie three in a -bed, rather than suffer a stranger to go away who comes to seek for a -lodging. As all these houses, however, which we had visited, were -crowded with inhabitants, we felt no great inclination to ask for -accommodation at any of them, but determined to sleep on board our -little vessel. We accordingly moored her at a convenient part of the -shore, and each of us having wrapped himself up in a blanket, which we -had been warned to provide on leaving New York, we laid ourselves down -to sleep. The boat was decked two thirds of her length forward, and had -a commodious hold; we gave the preference, however, because more airy, -to the cabin or after part, fitted up with benches, and covered with a -wooden awning, under which a man could just sit upright, provided he was -not very tall. The benches, which went lengthwise, accommodated two of -us; and the third was obliged to put up with the cabin floor; but a -blanket and a bare board, out of the way of musquitoes, were luxuries -after our accommodations at Skenesborough; our ears were not assailed by -the noise even of a single one the whole night, and we enjoyed sounder -repose than we had done for many nights preceding. - -The wind remained nearly in the same point the next morning, but the -lake being wider, we were enabled to proceed faster. We stopped at one -house to breakfast, and at another to dine. At neither of these, -although they bore the name of taverns, were we able to procure much -more than at the houses where we had stopped the preceding evening. At -the first we got a little milk, and about two pounds of bread, -absolutely the whole of what was in the house; and at the second, a few -eggs, and some cold salted fat pork; but not a morsel of bread was to be -had. The wretched appearance also of this last habitation was very -striking; it consisted of a wooden frame, merely with a few boards -nailed against it, the crevices between which were the only apertures -for the admission of light, except the door; and the roof was so leaky, -that we were sprinkled with the rain even as we sat at the fire side. -That people can live in such a manner, who have the necessaries and -conveniencies of life within their reach, as much as any others in the -world, is really most astonishing! It is, however, to be accounted for, -by that desire of making money, which is the predominant feature in the -character of the Americans in general, and leads the petty farmer in -particular to suffer numberless inconveniencies, when he can gain by so -doing. If he can sell the produce of his land to advantage, he keeps as -small a part of it as possible for himself, and lives the whole year -round upon salt provisions, bad bread, and the fish he can catch in the -rivers or lakes in the neighbourhood; if he has built a comfortable -house for himself, he readily quits it, as soon as finished, for money, -and goes to live in a mere hovel in the woods till he gets time to build -another. Money is his idol, and to procure it he gladly foregoes every -self-gratification. - -[Sidenote: TICONDEROGA.] - -From this miserable habitation, just mentioned, we departed as soon as -the rain was over, and the wind coming round in our favour, we got as -far as Ticonderoga that night. The only dwelling here is the tavern, -which is a large house built of stone. On entering it we were shewn into -a spacious apartment, crowded with boatmen and people that had just -arrived from St. John’s, in Canada. Seeing such a number of guests in -the house, we expected nothing less than to be kept an hour or two till -sufficient supper was prepared for the whole company, so that all might -sit down at once together, which, as I have before said, is the custom -in the country parts of the United States. Our surprise therefore was -great at perceiving a neat table and a comfortable little supper -speedily laid out for us, and no attempts made at serving the rest of -the company till we had quite finished. This was departing from the -system of equality in a manner which we had never witnessed before, and -we were at a loss for some time to account for it; but we presently -heard that the woman of the house had kept a tavern for the greater part -of her life at Quebec, which resolved the knotty point. The wife is -generally the active person in managing a country tavern, and the -husband attends to his farm, or has some independent occupation. The man -of this house was a judge, a sullen demure old gentleman, who sat by the -fire[28], with tattered clothes and dishevelled locks, reading a book, -totally regardless of every person in the room. - -Footnote 28: - - Though this was the 14th day of July, the weather was so cold that we - found a fire extremely agreeable. - -The old fort and barracks of Ticonderoga are on the top of a rising -ground, just behind the tavern; they are quite in ruins, and it is not -likely that they will ever be rebuilt, for the situation is very -insecure, being commanded by a lofty hill called Mount Defiance. The -British got possession of the place the last war by dragging cannon and -mortars up the hill, and firing down upon the fort. - -Early the next morning we left Ticonderoga, and pursued our voyage to -Crown Point, where we landed to look at the old fort. Nothing is to be -seen there, however, but a heap of ruins; for shortly before it was -given up by the British, the powder magazine blew up, by which accident -a great part of the works was destroyed; since the evacuation of it -also, the people in the neighbourhood have been continually digging in -different parts, in hopes of procuring lead and iron shot; a -considerable quantity was in one instance got out of the stores that had -been buried by the explosion. The vaults, which were bomb proof, have -been demolished for the sake of the bricks for building chimneys. At the -south side alone the ditches remain perfect; they are wide and deep, and -cut through immense rocks of limestone; and from being overgrown towards -the top with different kinds of shrubs, have a grand and picturesque -appearance. The view from this spot of the fort, and the old buildings -in it overgrown with ivy, of the lake, and of the distant mountains -beyond it, is indeed altogether very fine. The fort, and seven hundred -acres of good cleared land adjoining to it, are the property of the -state of New York, and are leased out at the rate of one hundred and -fifty dollars, equal to £. 33. 10 _s._ sterling per annum, which is -appropriated for the use of a college. The farmer who rented it told us, -he principally made use of the land for grazing cattle; these, in the -winter season, when the lake was frozen, he drove over the ice to -Albany, and there disposed of. - -[Sidenote: CROWN POINT.] - -Crown Point is the most advantageous spot on the shores of Lake -Champlain for a military post, not being commanded by any rising grounds -in the neighbourhood, as Ticonderoga is, and as the lake is so narrow -here, owing to another point running out on the opposite side, that it -would be absolutely impossible for a vessel to pass, without being -exposed to the fire of the fort. The Indians call this place -Tek-ya-dough-nigarigee, that is, the two points immediately opposite to -each other: the one opposite to Crown Point is called Chimney Point; -upon it are a few houses, one of which is a tavern. While we staid there -we were very agreeably surprised, for the first time, with the sight of -a large birch canoe upon the lake, navigated by two or three Indians in -the dresses of their nation. They made for the shore and soon landed; -and shortly after another party, amounting to six or seven, arrived, -that had come by land. - -On board our little vessel we had a poor Canadian, whom we took in at -Skenesborough. Tempted by the accounts he had heard of the United -States, he quitted his own home in Canada, where he lived under one of -the seigniors, and had gone as far as Albany, in the neighbourhood of -which place he had worked for some time with a farmer; but finding, that -although he got higher wages, he had to pay much more for his provisions -than in Canada, and that he was also most egregiously cheated by the -people, and particularly by his employer, from whom he could not get -even the money he had earned; finding likewise that he was unable to -procure any redress, from being ignorant of the English language, the -poor fellow determined to return to Canada, and on his way thither we -met him, without a shilling in his pocket. - -Having asked this little fellow, as we sailed along, some questions -about the Indians, he immediately gave us a long account of a Captain -Thomas, a chief of the Cachenonaga nation, in the neighbourhood of whose -village he said he lived. Thomas, he told us, was a very rich man, and -had a most excellent house, in which he said he lived as well as a -seignior, and he was sure we should be well received if we went to see -him; he told us also that he had built a church, and was a christian; -that he was very charitable, and that if he were acquainted with his -present distress he would certainly make him a present of four or five -dollars. “Oh je vous assure, messieurs, que c’est un bon sauvage.” It -was impossible not to smile at the little Canadian, who, half naked -himself, and nearly as dark as a mulatto, concluded his panegyric upon -Thomas, by assuring us, “he was a good savage;” at the same time we felt -a strong desire to behold this chief, of whom we had heard so much. It -was not long before we were gratified, for the party of Indians that -arrived whilst we were at Chimney Point were from the Cachenonaga -village, and at their head was Captain Thomas. - -[Sidenote: CAPTAIN THOMAS.] - -Thomas appeared to be about forty-five years of age; he was nearly six -feet high, and very bulky in proportion: this is a sort of make uncommon -among the Indians, who are generally slender. He was dressed like a -white man, in boots; his hair untied, but cut short; the people who -attended him were all in the Indian habit. Not one of his followers -could speak a word of English or French; Thomas, however, could himself -speak both languages. English he spoke with some little hesitation, and -not correctly; but French seemed as familiar to him as his native -tongue. His principal attention seemed to be directed towards trade, -which he had pursued with great success, so much so, indeed, that, as we -afterwards heard, he could get credit in any store in Montreal for five -hundred pounds. He had along with him at Chimney Point thirty horses and -a quantity of furs in the canoe, which he was taking for sale to Albany. -His people, he told us, had but very few wants; he took care to have -these always supplied; in return they brought him furs, taken in -hunting; they attended his horses, and voluntarily accompanied him when -he went on a trading expedition: his profits therefore must be immense. -During the course of conversation he told us, that if we came to see him -he would make us very happy; that there were some very handsome -squaws[29] in his village, and that each of us should have a wife: we -promised to visit him if it was in our power, and parted very good -friends. Thomas, as we afterwards found, is not a man respected among -the Indians in general, who think much more of a chief that is a good -warrior and hunter, and that retains the - -Footnote 29: - - Female Indians. - -habits of his nation, than of one that becomes a trader, and assimilates -his manners to those of the whites. - -[Sidenote: LAKE CHAMPLAIN.] - -Lake Champlain is about one hundred and twenty miles in length, and is -of various breadths; for the first thirty miles, that is, from South -River to Crown Point, it is in no place more than two miles wide; beyond -this, for the distance of twelve miles, it is five or six miles across, -but then again it narrows, and again at the end of a few miles expands. -That part called the Broad Lake, because broader than any other, -commences about twenty-five miles north of Crown Point, and is eighteen -miles across in the widest part. Here the lake is interspersed with a -great number of islands, the largest of which, formerly called Grande -Isle, now South Hero, is fifteen miles in length, and, on an average, -about four in breadth. The soil of this island is fertile, and it is -said that five hundred people are settled upon it. The Broad Lake is -nearly fifty miles in length, and gradually narrows till it terminates -in a large river called Chambly, Richlieu, or Sorelle, which runs into -the St. Lawrence. - -The soundings of Lake Champlain, except at the narrow parts at either -end, are in general very deep; in many places sixty and seventy, and in -some even one hundred fathoms. In proportion to its breadth and depth, -the water is more or less clear; in the broad part it is as pure and -transparent as possible. On the west side, as far as Cumberland Bay, the -lake is bounded for the most part by steep mountains close to the edge -of the water; at Cumberland Bay the ridge of mountains runs off to the -north west, and the shore farther on is low and swampy. The East or -Vermont shore is not much elevated, except in a few particular places; -at the distance of twelve miles, however, from the lake is a -considerable mountain. The shores on both sides are very rocky; where -there are mountains these rocks jut out very boldly; but at the east -side, where the land is low, they appear but a little above the water. -The islands also, for the most part, are surrounded with rocks, in some -parts, shelving down into the lake, so that it is dangerous to approach -within one or two miles of them at particular sides. From some parts of -the eastern shore the rocks also run out in the same manner for a -considerable distance. Sailing along the shore when a breeze is blowing, -a hollow murmuring noise is always heard from the waters splashing into -the crannies of these rocks. There are many streams which fall into the -lake: the mouths of all those on the western side are obstructed by -falls, so that none of them are navigable. Of those on the eastern or -Vermont side, a few only are navigable for small boats, and that for a -short distance. - -[Sidenote: SCENERY.] - -The scenery along various parts of the lake is extremely grand and -picturesque, particularly beyond Crown Point; the shores are there -beautifully ornamented with hanging woods and rocks, and the mountains -on the western side rise up in ranges one behind the other in the most -magnificent manner. It was on one of the finest evenings possible that -we passed along this part of the lake, and the sun setting in all his -glory behind the mountains, spread the richest tints over every part of -the prospect; the moon also appearing nearly in the full, shortly after -the day had closed, afforded us an opportunity of beholding the -surrounding scenery in fresh though less brilliant colours. Our little -bark was now gliding smoothly along, whilst every one of us remained -wrapt up in silent contemplation of the solemn scene, when suddenly she -struck upon one of the shelving rocks: nothing but hurry and confusion -was now visible on board, every one lending his assistance; however, at -last, with some difficulty, we got her off; but in a minute she struck a -second time, and after we had again extricated her, even a third and a -fourth time; at last she stuck so fast that for a short time we -despaired of being able to move her. At the end of a quarter of an hour, -however, we again fortunately got her into deep water. We had before -suspected that our boatman did not know a great deal about the -navigation of the lake, and on questioning him now, it came out, that he -had been a cobler all his life, till within the last nine months, when -he thought proper to change his business, and turn sailor. All the -knowledge he had of the shores of the lake, was what he had picked up -during that time, as he sailed straight backward and forward between St. -John’s and Skenesborough. On the present occasion he had mistaken one -bay for another, and had the waves been as high as they sometimes are, -the boat would inevitably have been dashed to pieces. - -The humble roof of another judge, a plain Scotch labourer, afforded us -shelter for this night. It was near eleven o’clock, however, when we got -there, and the family having retired to rest we had to remain rapping -and calling at the door for half an hour at least; before we could get -admittance. The people at last being roused, opened their doors, -cheerfully got us some supper, and prepared their best beds for us. In -the morning, having paid our reckoning to the judge, he returned to his -plough, and we to our boat to prosecute our voyage. - -[Sidenote: BOUNDARY.] - -We set off this day with a remarkable fine breeze, and being desirous of -terminating our voyage as soon as possible, of which we began now to be -somewhat tired, we stopped but once in the course of the day, and -determined to sail on all night. A short time after sun set we passed -the boundary between the British dominions and the United States. Here -we were brought to by an armed brig of twenty guns, under English -colours, stationed for the purpose of examining all boats passing up and -down the lake: the answers which we gave to the several questions asked -being satisfactory, we were accordingly suffered to proceed. Since the -surrender of the ports, pursuant to the late treaty with the United -States, this brig has been removed, and laid up at St. John’s. When -night came on, we wrapped ourselves up in our blankets, as we had done -on the first night of our voyage, and laid down upon the cabin floor, -where we might possibly have slept until we got to St. John’s, had we -not been awakened at midnight by the loud hollas of the sentinel at the -British fort on Isle aux Noix. On examining into the matter, it appeared -that the boat had been driven on shore, while our sleepy pilot enjoyed -his nap at the helm; and the sentinel, unable to imagine what we were -about, seeing the boat run up close under the fort, and suspicious of -some attack, I suppose, had turned out the whole guard; by whom, after -being examined and re-examined, we were finally dismissed. We now took -the command of the boat upon ourselves, for the boatman, although he was -more anxious to get to St. John’s than any one of us, and though he had -himself in some-measure induced us to go on, was so sleepy that he could -not keep his eyes open. Relieving each other at the helm, we reached St. -John’s by day-break; one hundred and fifty miles distant from -Skenesborough. - -Immediately on our landing we were conducted to the guard house, where -we had to deliver to the serjeant on duty, to be by him forwarded to the -commanding officer, an account of our names, occupation, and place of -abode, the strictest orders having been issued by the governor not to -suffer any Frenchmen or other foreigners, or any people who could not -give an exact account of their business in Canada, to enter into the -country. - -[Illustration: - - _A NEW MAP_ OF UPPER & LOWER CANADA 1798. - _Published Nov^r. 20^{th}. 1798 by_ J.Stockdale _Piccadilly_. -] - -St. John’s is a garrison town; it contains about fifty miserable wooden -dwellings, and barracks, in which a whole regiment is generally -quartered. The fortifications are entirely out of order, so much so that -it would be cheaper to erect fresh works than to attempt to repair them. -There is a king’s dock yard here, well stored with timber, at least, -when we saw it; but in the course of the summer, after the armed brig -which I mentioned was laid up, all the timber was sold off. The old -hulks of several vessels of force were lying opposite the yard. In -proportion to the increase of trade between New York and Lower Canada -this town must improve, as it is the British port of entry on Lake -Champlain. - -[Sidenote: CHAMBLY.] - -The country about St. John’s is flat, and very bare of trees, a dreadful -fire in the year 1788 having done great mischief, and destroyed all the -woods for several miles: in some parts of the neighbourhood the people -suffer extremely during winter from the want of fuel. - -At St. John’s we hired a light waggon, similar to those made use of in -the United States, and set off about noon for La Prarie, on the banks of -the river St. Lawrence. By the direct road, this is only eighteen miles -distant; but the most agreeable way of going thither is by Chambly, -which is a few miles farther, on account of seeing the old castle built -there by the French. The castle stands close to the rapids in Chambly or -Sorelle River, and at a little distance has a grand appearance; the -adjacent country also being very beautiful, the whole together forms a -most interesting scene. The castle is in tolerably good repair, and a -garrison is constantly kept in it. - -As you travel along this road to La Prarie, after having just arrived -from the United States over Lake Champlain, a variety of objects -forcibly remind you of your having got into a new country. The British -flag, the soldiers on duty, the French inhabitants running about in -their red nightcaps, the children coming to the doors to salute you as -you pass, a thing unknown in any part of the United States; the compact -and neat exterior appearance of the houses, the calashes, the bons -dieux, the large Roman Catholic churches and chapels, the convents, the -priests in their robes, the nuns, the friars; all serve to convince you -that you are no longer in any part of the United States: the language -also differs, French being here universally spoken. - -[Illustration: - - CANADIAN CALASH _or_ MARCHE-DONC. - _Published Dec. 22 1798, by J Stockdale, Piccadilly._ -] - -[Sidenote: MONTREAL.] - -The calash is a carriage very generally used in Lower Canada; there is -scarcely a farmer indeed in the country who does not possess one: it is -a sort of one horse chaise, capable of holding two people besides the -driver, who sits on a kind of box placed over the foot board expressly -for his accommodation. The body of the calash is hung upon broad straps -of leather, round iron rollers that are placed behind, by means of which -they are shortened or lengthened. On each side of the carriage is a -little door about two feet high, whereby you enter it, and which is -useful when shut, in preventing any thing from slipping out. The harness -for the horse is always made in the old French taste, extremely heavy; -it is studded with brass nails, and to particular parts of it are -attached small bells, of no use that I could ever discover but to annoy -the passenger. - -The bons dieux are large wooden crucifixes, sometimes upwards of twenty -feet in height, placed on the highway; some of them are highly -ornamented and painted: as the people pass they pull off their hats, or -in some other way make obeisance to them. - -La Prarie de la Madelene contains about one hundred houses: after -stopping an hour or two there we embarked in a bateau for Montreal. - -Montreal is situated on an island of the same name, on the opposite side -of the River St. Lawrence to that on which la Prarie stands, but -somewhat lower down. The two towns are nine miles apart, and the river -is about two miles and a quarter wide. The current here is prodigiously -strong, and in particular places as you cross, the boats are hurried -down the stream, in the midst of large rocks, with such impetuosity that -it seems as if nothing could save them from being dashed to pieces; -indeed this would certainly be the case if the men were not uncommonly -expert; but the Canadians are the most dexterous people perhaps in the -world at the management of bateaux in rapid rivers. After such a -prospect of the River St. Lawrence, it was not without astonishment that -on approaching the town of Montreal we beheld ships of upwards of four -hundred tons burthen lying close to the shore. The difficulties which -vessels have to encounter in getting to Montreal are immense; I have -myself seen them with all their sails set, and with a smart and -favourable breeze, stationary for an hour together in the stream, unable -to stem it, between the island of St. Helene and the main land, just -below the town: to stem the current at this place it is almost necessary -that the vessel should be aided by a storm. The ascent is equally -difficult in several other parts of the river. Owing to this it is, that -the passage from Quebec to Montreal is generally more tedious than that -across the Atlantic; those ships, therefore, which trade between Europe -and Montreal, never attempt to make more than one voyage during the -year. Notwithstanding the rapidity of the stream, the channel of the -river is very deep, and in particular just opposite to the town. The -largest merchant vessels can there lie so close to the banks, which are -in their natural state, that you may nearly touch them with your hand as -you stand on the shore. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XXII. - -_Description of the Town of Montreal.—Of the public - Buildings.—Churches.—Funeral - Ceremonies.—Convents.—Barracks.—Fortifications.—Inhabitants mostly - French.—Their Character and Manners.—Charming Prospects in the - Neighbourhood of the Town.—Amusements during Summer.—Parties of - Pleasure up the Mountain.—Of the Fur Trade.—The Manner in which it is - carried on.—Great Enterprise of the North West Company of - Merchants.—Sketch of Mr. M‘Kenzie’s Expeditions over Land to the - Pacific Ocean.—Differences between the North West and Hudson’s Bay - Companies._ - - - Montreal, July. - -THE town of Montreal was laid out pursuant to the orders of one of the -kings of France, which were, that a town should be built as high up on -the St. Lawrence as it were possible for vessels to go by sea. In fixing -upon the spot where it stands, his commands were complied with in the -strictest sense. The town at present contains about twelve hundred -houses, whereof five hundred only are within the walls; the rest are in -the suburbs, which commence from the north, east, and west gates. The -houses in the suburbs are mostly built of wood, but the others are all -of stone; none of them are elegant, but there are many very comfortable -habitations. In the lower part of the town, towards the river, where -most of the shops stand, they have a very gloomy appearance, and look -like so many prisons, being all furnished at the outside with sheet iron -shutters to the doors and windows, which are regularly closed towards -evening, in order to guard against fire. The town has suffered by fire -very materially at different times, and the inhabitants have such a -dread of it, that all who can afford it cover the roofs of their houses -with tin-plates instead of shingles. By law they are obliged to have one -or more ladders, in proportion to the size of the house, always ready on -the roofs. - -[Sidenote: MONTREAL.] - -The streets are all very narrow; three of them run parallel to the -river, and these are intersected by others at right angles, but not at -regular distances. On the side of the town farthest from the river, and -nearly between the northern and southern extremities, there is a small -square, called La Place d’Armes, which seems originally to have been -left open to the walls on one side, and to have been intended for the -military to exercise in; the troops, however, never make use of it now, -but parade on a long walk, behind the walls, nearer to the barracks. On -the opposite side of the town, towards the water, is another small -square, where the market is held. - -There are six churches in Montreal; one for English Episcopalians, one -for Presbyterians, and four for Roman Catholics. The cathedral church -belonging to the latter, which occupies one side of La Place d’Armes, is -a very spacious building, and contains five altars, all very richly -decorated. The doors of this cathedral are left open the greater part of -the day, and there are, generally, numbers of old people in it at their -prayers, even when no regular service is going on. On a fine Sunday in -the summer season such multitudes flock to it, that even the steps at -the outside are covered with people, who, unable to get in, remain there -kneeling with their hats off during the whole time of divine service. -Nearly all the christenings, marriages, and burials of the Roman -Catholic inhabitants of Montreal are performed in this church, on which -occasions, as well as before and during the masses, they always ring the -bells, to the great annoyance of every person that is not a lover of -discords; for instead of pulling the bells, which are five in number, -and really well toned, with regularity, they jingle them all at once, -without any sort of cadence whatever. Our lodgings happened to be in La -Place d’Armes; and during three weeks that we remained there, I verily -believe the bells were never suffered to remain still for two hours -together, at any one time, except in the night. - -[Sidenote: MONTREAL.] - -The funerals, as in other Roman Catholic countries, are conducted with -great ceremony; the corpse is always attended to the church by a number -of priests chanting prayers, and by little boys in white robes and black -caps carrying wax lights. A morning scarcely ever passed over that one -or more of these processions did not pass under our windows whilst we -were at breakfast; for on the opposite side of the square to that on -which the cathedral stood, was a sort of chapel, to which the bodies of -all those persons, whose friends could not afford to pay for an -expensive funeral, were brought, I suppose, in the night, for we could -never see any carried in there, and from thence conveyed in the morning -to the cathedral. If the priests are paid for it they go to the house of -the deceased, though it be ever so far distant, and escort the corpse to -the church. Until within a few years past it was customary to bury all -the bodies in the vaults underneath the cathedral; but now it is -prohibited, lest some putrid disorder should break out in the town in -consequence of such numbers being deposited there. The burying grounds -are all without the walls at present. - -There are in Montreal four convents, one of which is of the order of St. -Francis; the number of the friars, however, is reduced now to two or -three, and as by the laws of the province men can no longer enter into -any religious order, it will of course in a few years dwindle entirely -away. On the female orders there is no restriction, and they are still -well filled. The Hotel Dieu, founded as early as 1644, for the relief of -the sick poor, and which is the oldest of the convents, contains thirty -“religieuses”—nuns; La Congregation de Notre Dame, instituted for the -instruction of young girls, contains fifty-seven sœurs, another sort of -nuns; and L’Hospital Generale, for the accommodation of the infirm poor, -contains eighteen sœurs. - -The barracks are agreeably situated near the river, at the lower end of -the town; they are surrounded by a lofty wall, and calculated to contain -about three hundred men. - -The walls round the town are mouldering away very fast, and in some -places are totally in ruins; the gates, however, remain quite perfect. -The walls were built principally as a defence against the Indians, by -whom the country was thickly inhabited when Montreal was founded, and -they were found necessary, to repel the open attacks of these people as -late as the year 1736. When the large fairs used to be held in Montreal, -to which the Indians from all parts resorted with their furs, they were -also found extremely useful, as the inhabitants were thereby enabled to -shut out the Indians at night, who, had they been suffered to remain in -the town, addicted as they are to drinking, might have been tempted to -commit great outrages, and would have kept the inhabitants in a -continual state of alarm. In their best state the walls could not have -protected the town against cannon, not even against a six pounder; nor, -indeed, would the strongest walls be of any use in defending it against -artillery, as it is completely commanded by the eminences in the island -of St. Helene[30], in the River St. Lawrence. Montreal has always been -an easy conquest to regular troops. - -Footnote 30: - - This island was the last place which the French surrendered to the - British. - -[Sidenote: MONTREAL.] - -By far the greater number of the inhabitants of Montreal are of French -extraction; all the eminent merchants, however, and principal people in -the town, are either English, Scotch, Irish, or their descendants, all -of whom pass for English with the French inhabitants. The French retain, -in a great measure, the manners and customs of their ancestors, as well -as the language; they have an unconquerable aversion to learn English, -and it is very rare to meet with any person amongst them that can speak -it in any manner; but the English inhabitants are, for the most part, -well acquainted with the French language. - -The people of Montreal, in general, are remarkably hospitable and -attentive to strangers; they are sociable also amongst themselves, and -fond in the extreme of convivial amusements. In winter, they keep up -such a constant and friendly intercourse with each other, that it seems -then as if the town were inhabited but by one large family. During -summer they live somewhat more retired; but throughout that season a -club, formed of all the principal, inhabitants, both male and female, -meet every week or fortnight, for the purpose of dining at some -agreeable spot in the neighbourhood of the town. - -The island of Montreal is about twenty-eight miles in length and ten in -breadth; it is the largest of several islands which are situated in the -St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Utawa River. Its soil is luxuriant, -and in some parts much cultivated and thickly inhabited. It is agreeably -diversified with hill and dale, and towards its center, in the -neighbourhood of Montreal, there are two or three considerable -mountains. The largest of these stands at the distance of about one mile -from the town, which is named from it. The base of this mountain is -surrounded with neat country houses and gardens, and partial -improvements have been made about one third of the way up; the remainder -is entirely covered with lofty trees. On that side towards the river is -a large old monastery, with extensive inclosures walled in, round which -the ground has been cleared for some distance. This open part is covered -with a rich verdure, and the woods encircling it, instead of being -overrun with brushwood, are quite clear at bottom, so that you may here -roam about at pleasure for miles together, shaded, by the lofty trees, -from the rays of the sun. - -[Sidenote: FUR TRADE.] - -The view from hence is grand beyond description. A prodigious expanse of -country is laid open to the eye, with the noble river St. Lawrence -winding through it, which may be traced from the remotest part of the -horizon. The river comes from the right, and flows smoothly on after -passing down the tremendous rapids above the town, where it is hurried -over huge rocks with a noise that is heard even up the mountain. On the -left below you appears the town of Montreal, with its churches, -monasteries, glittering spires, and the shipping under its old walls; -several little islands in the river near the town, partly improved, -partly overgrown with wood, add greatly to the beauty of the scene. La -Prarie with its large church on the distant side of the river, is seen -to the greatest advantage, and beyond it is a range of lofty mountains -which terminates the prospect. Such an endless variety and such a -grandeur is there in the view from this part of the mountain, that even -those who are most habituated to the view always find it a fresh subject -of admiration whenever they contemplate it; and on this part of the -mountain it is that the club which I mentioned generally assembles. Two -stewards are appointed for the day, who always chuse some new spot where -there is a spring or rill of water, and an agreeable shade: each family -brings cold provisions, wine, &c.; the whole is put together, and the -company, often amounting to one hundred persons, sits down to dinner. - -The fur trade is what is chiefly carried on at Montreal, and it is there -that the greater part of the furs are shipped, which are sent from -Canada to England. - -This very lucrative trade is carried on, partly by what is called the -North West Company, and partly by private individuals on their own -account. The company does not possess any particular privileges by law, -but from its great capital merely it is enabled to trade to certain -remote parts of the continent, to the exclusion of those who do not hold -any shares in it. It was formed originally by the merchants of Montreal -themselves, who wisely considered that the trade could be carried on to -those distant parts of the continent, inhabited solely by Indians, with -more security and greater profit, if they joined together in a body, -than if they continued to trade separately. The stock of the company was -divided into forty shares, and as the number of merchants in the town at -that time was not very great, this arrangement afforded an opportunity -to every one of them to join in the company if he thought proper. At -present these shares have all fallen into the hands of a few persons. - -[Sidenote: CANOES.] - -The company principally carries on its trade by means of the Utawas or -Grand River, that falls into the St. Lawrence about thirty miles above -Montreal, and which forms, by its confluence with that river, “Le Lac de -Deux Montagnes et le Lac St. Louis,”—the lake of the Two Mountains and -the Lake of St. Louis, wherein are several large islands. To convey the -furs down this river, they make use of canoes, formed of the bark of the -birch tree, some of which are upon such a large scale that they are -capable of containing two tons, but they seldom put so much in them, -especially on this river, it being in many places shallow, rapid, and -full of rocks, and contains no less than thirty-two portages. - -The canoes are navigated by the French Canadians, who are particularly -fond of the employment, preferring it in general to that of cultivating -the ground. A fleet of them sets off from Montreal about the month of -May, laden with provisions, consisting chiefly of biscuit and salt pork, -sufficient to last the crews till their return, and also with the -articles given in barter to the Indians. At some of the shallow places -in the river, it is sufficient if the men merely get out of the canoes, -and push them on into the deep water; but at others, where there are -dangerous rapids and sharp rocks, is it necessary for the men to unlade -the canoes, and carry both them and the cargoes on their shoulders, till -they come again to a safe part of the river. At night they drag the -canoes upon shore, light a fire, cook their provisions for the following -day, and sleep upon the ground wrapped up in their blankets. If it -happens to rain very hard, they sometimes shelter themselves with boughs -of trees, but in general they remain under the canopy of heaven, without -any covering but their blankets: they copy exactly the Indian mode of -life on these occasions, and many of them even wear the Indian dresses, -which they find more convenient than their own. - -Having ascended the Utawas River for about two hundred and eighty miles, -which it takes them about eighteen days to perform, they then cross by a -portage into Lake Nispissing, and from this lake by another portage they -get upon French River, that falls into Lake Huron on the north-east -side; then coasting along this last lake they pass through the Straits -of St. Mary, where there is another portage into Lake Superior; and -coasting afterwards along the shores of Lake Superior, they come to the -Grand Portage on the north-west side of it; from hence by a chain of -small lakes and rivers they proceed on to the Rainy Lake, to the Lake of -the Woods, and for hundreds of miles beyond it, through Lake Winnipeg, -&c. - -[Sidenote: M‘KENZIE’S EXPEDITIONS.] - -The canoes, however, which go so far up the country, never return the -same year; those intended to bring back cargoes immediately, stop at the -Grand Portage, where the furs are collected ready for them by the agents -of the company. The furs are made up in packs of a certain weight, and a -particular number is put into each canoe. By knowing thus the exact -weight of every pack, there can be no embezzlement; and at the portages -there is no time wasted in allotting to each man his load, every one -being obliged to carry so many packs. - -At the Grand Portage, and along that immense chain of lakes and rivers, -which extend beyond Lake Superior, the company has regular posts, where -the agents reside; and with such astonishing enterprize and industry -have the affairs of this company been carried on, that trading posts are -now established within five hundred miles of the Pacific Ocean. One -gentleman, indeed, a partner in the house at Montreal, which now holds -the greatest part of the shares of the company, has even penetrated to -the Pacific Ocean itself. The journal kept by this gentleman upon the -expedition is, it is said, replete with information of the most -interesting nature. That it has not been laid before the public long -ago, together with an accurate map of his track, is to be imputed solely -to an unfortunate misunderstanding which took place between him and a -noble lord high in the confidence of government. - -In the first attempt which this adventurous gentleman, a Mr. M‘Kenzie, -made to penetrate to the ocean, he set out early in the spring from the -remotest of the posts belonging to the company. He took with him a -single canoe, and a party of chosen men; and after passing over -prodigious traits of land, never before traversed by any white person, -at last came to a large river. Here the canoe, which was carried by the -men on their shoulders, was launched, and having all embarked, they -proceeded down the stream. From the course this river took for a very -great distance, Mr. M‘Kenzie was led to imagine that it was one of those -rivers he was in quest of; namely, one which emptied itself into the -Pacific Ocean; but at the end of several weeks, during which they had -worked their way downward with great eagerness, he was convinced, from -the gradual inclination of the river towards another quarter, that he -must have been mistaken; and that it was one of those immense rivers, so -numerous on the continent of North America, that ran into Baffin’s Bay, -or the Arctic Ocean. - -[Sidenote: M‘KENZIE’S EXPEDITIONS.] - -The party was now in a very critical situation; the season was far -advanced, and the length of way which they had to return was prodigious. -If they attempted to go back, and were overtaken by winter, they must in -all probability perish for want of provisions in an uninhabited country; -if, on the contrary, they made up their minds to spend the winter where -they were, they had no time to lose in building huts, and going out to -hunt and fish, that they might have sufficient stores to support them -through that dreary season. Mr. M‘Kenzie represented the matter, in the -most open terms, to his men, and left it to themselves to determine the -part they would take. The men were for going back at all hazards; and -the result was, that they reached their friends in safety. The -difficulties they had to contend with, and the exertions they made in -returning, were almost surpassing belief. - -The second expedition entered upon by Mr. M‘Kenzie, and which succeeded -to his wishes, was undertaken about three years ago. He set out in the -same manner, but well provided with several different things, which he -found the want of in the first expedition. He was extremely well -furnished this time with astronomical instruments, and in particular -with a good time-piece, that he procured from London. He took a course -somewhat different from the first, and passed through many nations of -Indians who had never before seen the face of a white man, amongst some -of whom he was for a time in imminent danger; but he found means at last -to conciliate their good will. From some of these Indians he learned, -that there was a ridge of mountains at a little distance, beyond which -the rivers all ran in a western direction. Having engaged some of them -therefore for guides, he proceeded according to their directions until -he came to the mountains, and after ascending them with prodigious -labour, found, to his great satisfaction, that the account the Indians -had given was true, and that the rivers on the opposite side did indeed -all run to the west. He followed the course of one of them, and finally -came to the Pacific Ocean, not far from Nootka Sound. - -[Sidenote: HUDSON BAY.] - -Here he was given to understand by the natives, and their account was -confirmed by the sight of some little articles they had amongst them, -that an English vessel had quitted the coast only six weeks before. This -was a great mortification to Mr. M‘Kenzie; for had there been a ship on -the coast, he would most gladly have embarked in it rather than -encounter the same difficulties, and be exposed to the same perils, -which he had experienced in getting there; however there was no -alternative; he set out after a short time on his journey back again, -and having found his canoe quite safe under some bushes, near the head -of the river, where he had hid it, together with some provisions, left -on going down to the coast the natives might have proved unfriendly, and -have cut off his retreat by seizing upon it, he finally arrived at one -of the trading posts in security. When I was at Montreal Mr. M‘Kenzie -was not there, and I never had an opportunity of seeing him afterwards. -What I have here related respecting his two expeditions is the -substance, to the best of my recollection, of what I heard from his -partners. - -Many other individuals belonging to the North West Company, before Mr. -M‘Kenzie set out, penetrated far into the country in different -directions, and much beyond what any person had done before them, in -order to establish posts. In some of these excursions they fell in with -the agents of the Hudson Bay Company, who were also extending their -posts from another quarter: this unexpected meeting between the two -companies, at one time gave rise to some very unpleasant altercations, -and the Hudson Bay Company threatened the other with an immediate -prosecution for an infringement of its charter. - -By its charter, it seems, the Hudson Bay Company was allowed the -exclusive privilege of trading to the Bay, and along all the rivers and -waters connected with it. This charter, however, was granted at a time -when the northern parts of the continent were much less known than they -are now, for to have the exclusive trade along all the waters connected -with Hudson Bay was, literally speaking, to have the exclusive trade of -the greater part of the continent of North America. Hudson Bay by a -variety of rivers and lakes, is closely connected with Lake Superior, -and from that chain of lakes, of which Lake Superior is one, there is a -water communication throughout all Canada, and a very great part of the -United States; however, when the agents of the North-west Company were -fixing trading posts upon some rivers which ran immediately into -Hudson’s Bay, it undoubtedly appeared to be an infringement of the -charter, and so indeed it must strictly have been, had not the Hudson’s -Bay Company itself infringed its own charter in the first instance, or -at least neglected to comply with all the stipulations contained -therein. A clause seems to have been in the charter, which, at the same -time that it granted to the company the exclusive privilege of trading -to Hudson’s Bay, and along all the waters connected with it, bound it to -erect a new post twelve miles farther to the westward every year, -otherwise the charter was to become void. This had not been done; the -North-west Company therefore rested perfectly easy about the menaces of -a prosecution, satisfied that the other company did not in fact legally -possess those privileges to which it laid claim. - -[Sidenote: TRADING COMPANIES.] - -The Hudson’s Bay Company, though it threatened, never indeed attempted -to put its threats into execution, well knowing the weakness of its -cause, but continued nevertheless to watch the motions of its rival with -a most jealous eye; and as in extending their respective trades, the -posts of the two companies were approximating nearer and nearer to each -other every year, there was great reason to imagine that their -differences, instead of abating, would become still greater than they -were, and finally, perhaps, lead to consequences of the most serious -nature. A circumstance, however, unexpectedly took place, at a time when -the greatest enmity subsisted between the parties, which happily -reconciled them to each other, and terminated all their disputes. - -A very powerful nation of Indians, called the Assiniboins, who inhabit -an extended tract of country to the south-west of Lake Winnipeg, -conceiving that the Hudson’s Bay Company had encroached unreasonably -upon their territories, and had otherwise maltreated a part of their -tribe, formed the resolution of instantly destroying a post established -by that company in their neighbourhood. A large body of them soon -collected together, and breathing the fiercest spirit of revenge, -marched unperceived and unsuspected by the party against whom their -expedition was planned, till within a short distance of their post. Here -they halted according to custom, waiting only for a favourable moment to -pounce upon their prey. Some of the agents of the North-west Company, -however, who were scattered about this part of the country, fortunately -got intelligence of their design. They knew the weakness of the place -about to be attacked, and forgetting the rivalship subsisting between -them, and thinking only how to save their countrymen, they immediately -dispatched a messenger to give the party notice of the assault that was -meditated; they at the same time sent another messenger to one of their -own posts, desiring that instant succour might be sent to that belonging -to the Hudson Bay Company, which the Indians were about to plunder. The -detachment arrived before the attack commenced, and the Indians were -repulsed; but had it not been for the timely assistance their rivals had -afforded, the Hudson Bay people were fully persuaded that they must have -fallen victims to the fury of the Indians. - -This signal piece of service was not undervalued or forgotten by those -who had been saved; and as the North-west Company was so much stronger, -and on so much better terms with the Indians in this part of the country -than its rivals, it now evidently appeared to be the interest of the -latter to have the posts of the North-west Company established as near -its own as possible. This is accordingly done for their mutual safety, -and the two companies are now on the most friendly terms, and continue -to carry on their trade close to each other. - -[Sidenote: FUR TRADE.] - -About two thousand men are employed by the North-west Company in their -posts in the upper country. Those who are stationed at the remote -trading posts lead a very savage life, but little better indeed than -that of Indians: some of them remain far up in the country for four or -five years together. The head clerk or principal agent generally marries -an Indian girl, the daughter of some eminent chief, by which he gains in -a peculiar manner the affections of the whole tribe, a matter of great -importance. These marriages, as may be supposed, are not considered as -very binding by the husband; but that is nothing in the opinion of an -Indian chief, who readily brings his sister or daughter to you; at the -same time he can only be appeased by blood if a person attempts to take -any improper liberties with his wife. Amongst no people are the wives -more chaste, or more devoted to their husbands. - -Besides the furs and pelts conveyed down to Montreal from the -north-western parts of the continent, by means of the Utawas River, -there are large quantities also brought there across the lakes, and down -the River St. Lawrence. These are collected at the various towns and -posts along the Lakes Huron, Erie, and Ontario, where the trade is open -to all parties, the several posts being protected by regular troops, at -the expence of the government. Added likewise to what are thus collected -by the agents of the company, and of private merchants, there are -considerable quantities brought down to Montreal for sale by traders, on -their own account. Some of these traders come from parts as remote as -the Illinois Country, bordering on the Mississippi. They ascend the -Mississippi as far as Ouisconsing River, and from that by a portage of -three miles get upon Fox River, which falls into Lake Michigan. In the -fall of the year, as I have before mentioned, these two rivers overflow, -and it is then sometimes practicable to pass in a light canoe from one -river to the other, without any portage whatsoever. From Lake Michigan -they get upon Lake Huron, afterwards upon Lake Erie, and so on to the -St. Lawrence. Before the month of September is over, the furs are all -brought down to Montreal; as they arrive they are immediately shipped, -and the vessels dispatched in October, beyond which month it would be -dangerous for them to remain in the river on account of the setting in -of winter. - -Furs are also shipped in considerable quantities at Quebec, and at the -town of Trois Rivieres. These furs are brought down the rivers that fall -into the St. Lawrence, on the north side, by Indians. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XXIII. - -_Voyage to Quebec down the St. Lawrence.—A Bateau preferable to a Keel - Boat.—Town of Sorelle.—Ship-building there.—Description of Lake St. - Pierre.—Batiscon.—Charming Scenery along the Banks of St. Lawrence.—In - what respects it differs from the Scenery along any other River in - America.—Canadian Houses.—Sketch of the Character and manners of the - lower Classes of Canadians.—Their Superstition.—Anecdote.—St. Augustin - Calvaire.—Arrive at Quebec._ - - - Quebec, August. - -[Sidenote: SORELLE.] - - -WE remained in Montreal until the first day of August, when we set off -in a bateau for Quebec, about one hundred and sixty miles lower down the -St. Lawrence. A bateau is a particular kind of boat, very generally used -upon the large rivers and lakes in Canada. The bottom of it is perfectly -flat, and each end is built very sharp, and exactly alike. The sides are -about four feet high, and for the convenience of the rowers, four or -five benches are laid across, sometimes more, according to the length of -the bateau. It is a very heavy awkward sort of vessel, either for rowing -or sailing, but it is preferred to a boat with a keel for two very -obvious reasons; first, because it draws less water, at the same time -that it carries a larger burthen; and secondly, because it is much safer -on lakes or wide rivers, where storms are frequent: a proof of this came -under our observation the day of our leaving Montreal. We had reached a -wide part of the river, and were sailing along with a favourable wind, -when suddenly the horizon grew very dark, and a dreadful storm arose, -accompanied with loud peals of thunder and torrents of rain. Before the -sail could be taken in, the ropes which held it were snapped in pieces, -and the waves began to dash over the sides of the bateau, though the -water had been quite smooth five minutes before. It was impossible now -to counteract the force of the wind with oars, and the bateau was -consequently driven on shore, but the bottom of it being quite flat, it -was carried smoothly upon the beach without sustaining any injury, and -the men leaping out drew it up on dry land, where we remained out of all -danger till the storm was over. A keel boat, however, of the same size, -could not have approached nearer to the shore than thirty feet, and -there it would have stuck fast in the sand, and probably have been -filled with water. From being fitted up as it was, our bateau proved to -be a very pleasant conveyance: it was one of a large size, and over the -widest part of it an oilcloth awning was thrown, supported by hoops -similar to the roof of a waggon: thus a most excellent cabin was formed, -large enough, to contain half a dozen chairs and a table, and which, at -the same time that it afforded shelter from the inclemency of the -weather, was airy, and sufficiently open to let us see all the beauties -of the prospect on each shore to the greatest advantage. - -It was about eleven o’clock in the morning when we left Montreal, and at -five in the afternoon we reached the town of Sorelle, fifteen leagues -distant. The current is very strong the whole way between the two -places. Sorelle stands at the mouth of the river of the same name, which -runs from Lake Champlain into the St. Lawrence. It was laid out about -the year 1787, and on an extensive plan, with very wide streets and a -large square, but at present it contains only one hundred houses, are -all very indifferent, and standing widely asunder. This is the only town -on the St. Lawrence, between Montreal and Quebec, wherein English is the -predominant language. The inhabitants consist principally of loyalists -from the United States, who took refuge in Canada. The chief business -carried on here is that of ship-building; there are several vessels -annually launched from fifty to two hundred tons burthen; these are -floated down to Quebec, and there rigged. Ship-building is not carried -on to so much advantage in Canada as might be imagined, all the bolts -and other articles of iron, the blocks, and the cordage, being imported; -so that what is gained by having excellent timber on the spot is lost in -bringing over these different articles, which are so bulky, from Europe. -The river of Sorelle is deep at the mouth, and affords good shelter for -ships from the ice, at the breaking up of winter: it is not navigable -far beyond the town, even in boats, on account of the rapids. - -[Sidenote: SCENERY.] - -The next morning we left Sorelle, beyond which place the St. Lawrence -expands to a great breadth. Here it abounds with small islands, situated -so closely to each other, that it is impossible to think without -astonishment of large vessels, like those that go to Montreal, passing -between them: the channel through them is very intricate. This wide part -of the river is called Lac St. Pierre; the greatest breadth of it is -about four leagues and a half, and its length from the islands at the -head of the lake downwards about eight leagues. From hence to Quebec the -river is in no place more than two miles across, and in some parts it -narrows to the breadth of three quarters of a mile. The tide ebbs and -flows in the river within a few leagues of Lac St. Pierre; the great -expansion of the water at the lake, and the strong current which sets -out from it, prevents its action higher up. - -From Montreal as far as the town of Trois Rivieres, which stands about -four leagues below Lac St. Pierre, the shores on each side of the St. -Lawrence are very flat; the land then begins to rise, and on the -south-east side it continues lofty the whole way down to Quebec. On the -opposite side, however, below Trois Rivieres, the banks vary -considerably; in some places they are high, in others very low, until -you approach within a few leagues of Quebec, when they assume a bold and -grand appearance on each side. The scenery along various parts of the -river is very fine: it is impossible, indeed, but that there must be a -variety of pleasing views along a noble river like the St. Lawrence, -winding for hundreds of miles through a rich country, diversified with -rising grounds, woodlands, and cultivated plains. What particularly -attracts the attention, however, in going down this river, is, the -beautiful disposition of the towns and villages on its banks. Nearly all -the settlements in Lower Canada are situated close upon the borders of -the rivers, and from this circumstance the scenery along the St. -Lawrence and others differs materially from that along the rivers in the -United States. The banks of the Hudson river, which are more cultivated -than those of any of the other large rivers there, are wild and desolate -in comparison with those of the St. Lawrence. For several leagues below -Montreal the houses stand so closely together, that it appears as if it -were but one village, which extended the whole way. All the houses have -a remarkably neat appearance at a distance; and in each village, though -it be ever so small, there is a church. The churches are kept in the -neatest repair, and most of them have spires, covered, according to the -custom of the country, with tin, that, from being put on in a particular -manner, never becomes rusty[31]. It is pleasing beyond description to -behold one of these villages opening to the view, as you sail round a -point of land covered with trees, the houses in it overhanging the -river, and the spires of the churches sparkling through the groves with -which they are encircled, before the rays of the setting sun. - -Footnote 31: - - The square plates of tin are nailed on diagonally, and the corners are - carefully folded over the heads of the nails, so as to prevent any - moisture from getting to them. - -There is scarcely any part of the river, where you pass along, for more -than a league, without seeing a village and church. - -[Sidenote: BATISCON.] - -The second night of our voyage we landed at the village of Batiscon. It -stands on the north-west side of the river, about eighty miles below -Montreal. Here the shore is very flat and marshy, and for a considerable -distance from it the water is so shallow when the tide is out, that a -bateau even, cannot at that time come within one hundred yards of the -dry ground. Lower down the river the shore is in some places extremely -rocky. - -The first habitation we came to at Batiscon was a farm house, where we -readily got accommodation for the night. The people were extremely -civil, and did all in their power to serve us. A small table was quickly -set out, covered with a neat white table cloth, and bread, milk, eggs, -and butter, the best fare which the house afforded, were brought to us. -These things may always be had in abundance at every farm house; but it -is not often that you can procure meat of any sort; in going through -Canada, therefore, it is customary for travellers to carry a provision -basket with them. The houses in Lower Canada are in general well -furnished with beds, all in the French style, very large, and raised -four or five feet high, with a paillasse, a mattrass, and a feather bed. - -The houses for the most part are built of logs; but they are much more -compact and better built than those in the United States; the logs are -made to fit more closely together, and instead of being left rough and -uneven on the outside, are planed and white washed. At the inside also -the walls are generally lined with deal boards, whereas in the United -States the common log-houses are left as rough within as they are -without. One circumstance, however, renders the Canadian houses very -disagreeable, and that is the inattention of the inhabitants to air them -occasionally by opening the windows, in consequence of which they have a -close heavy smell within doors. As we travelled by land from Quebec to -Montreal, we scarcely observed ten houses the whole way with the windows -open, notwithstanding that the weather was very warm. If you ask the -people why they don’t let a little fresh air into their houses, their -constant answer is, as it is to all questions of a similar tendency, “Ce -n’est pas la maniere des habitans”—It is not the custom of the people of -the country. - -[Sidenote: SUPERSTITION.] - -Some of the lower classes of the French Canadians have all the gaiety -and vivacity of the people of France; they dance, they sing, and seem -determined not to give way to care; others, to appearance, have a great -deal of that sullenness and bluntness in their manners characteristic of -the people of the United States; vanity, however, is the ascendant -feature in the character of all of them, and by working upon that you -may make them do what you please. Few of the men can read or write; the -little learning there is amongst the inhabitants is confined to the -women: a Canadian never makes a bargain, or takes any step of -importance, without consulting his wife, whose opinion is generally -abided by. Both men and women are sunk in ignorance and superstition, -and blindly devoted to their priests. The following anecdote may serve -to shew how much they are so. - -On the evening before we reached Quebec, we stopped at the village of -St. Augustin Calvaire, and after having strolled about for some time, -returned to the farm house where we had taken up our quarters for the -night. The people had cooked some fish, that had been just caught, while -we had been walking about, and every thing being ready on our return, we -sat down to supper by the light of a lamp, which was suspended from the -ceiling. The glimmering light, however, that it afforded, scarcely -enabled us to see what was on the table; we complained of it to the man -of the house, and the lamp was in consequence trimmed; it was -replenished with oil; taken down and set on the table; still the light -was very bad. “Sacre Dieu!” exclaimed he, “but you shall not eat your -fish in the dark;” so saying, he stepped aside to a small cupboard, took -out a candle, and having lighted it, placed it beside us. All was now -going on well, when the wife, who had been absent for a few minutes, -suddenly returning, poured forth a volley of the most terrible -execrations against her poor husband for having presumed to have acted -as he had done. Unable to answer a single word, the fellow stood aghast, -ignorant of what he had done to offend her; we were quite at a loss also -to know what could have given rise to such a sudden storm; the wife, -however, snatching up the candle, and hastily extinguishing it, -addressed us in a plaintive tone of voice, and explained the whole -affair. It was the holy candle—“La chandelle benite,” which her giddy -husband had set on the table; it had been consecrated at a neighbouring -church, and supposing there should be a tempest at any time, with -thunder and lightning ever so terrible, yet if the candle were but kept -burning while it lasted, the house, the barn, and every thing else -belonging to it, were to be secured from all danger. If any of the -family happened to be sick, the candle was to be lighted, and they were -instantly to recover. It had been given to her that morning by the -priest of the village, with an assurance that it possessed the -miraculous power of preserving the family from harm, and she was -confident that what he told her was true.—To have contradicted the poor -woman would have been useless; for the sake of our ears, however, we -endeavoured to pacify her, and that being accomplished, we sat down to -supper, and e’en made the most of our fish in the dark. - -The village of St. Augustin Calvaire is about five leagues from Quebec, -at which last place we arrived early on the next morning, the fourth of -our voyage. When the wind is fair, and the tide favourable also, it does -not take more than two days to go from Montreal to Quebec. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XXIV. - -_Situation of the City of Quebec.—Divided into Upper and Lower - Town.—Description of each.—Great Strength of the Upper Town.—Some - Observations on the Capture of Quebec by the English Army under - General Wolfe.—Observations on Montgomery’s and Arnold’s Attack - during the American War.—Census of Inhabitants of Quebec.—The - Chateau, the Residence of the Governor.—Monastery of the - Recollets.—College of the Jesuits.—One Jesuit remaining of great - Age. —His great Wealth.—His Character.—Nunneries.—Engineer’s Drawing - Room.—State House.—Armoury.—Barracks.—Market-place.—Dogs used in - Carts.—Grandeur of the Prospects from Parts of the Upper - Town.—Charming Scenery of the Environs.—Description of Montmorenci - Water Fall.—Of La Chaudiere Water Fall._ - - - Quebec, August. - -THE city of Quebec is situated on a very lofty point of land, on the -north-west side of the River St. Lawrence. Nearly facing it, on the -opposite shore, there is another point, and between the two the river is -contracted to the breadth of three quarters of a mile, but after passing -through this strait it expands to the breadth of five or six miles, -taking a great sweep behind that point whereon Quebec stands. The city -derives its name from the word Quebec or Quebeio, which signifies in the -Algonquin tongue, a sudden contraction of a river. The wide part of the -river, immediately before the town, is called The Bason; and it is -sufficiently deep and spacious to float upwards of one hundred sail of -the line. - -[Illustration: - - _A PLAN of the CITY of QUEBEC_ -] - -[Sidenote: QUEBEC.] - -Quebec is divided into two parts; the upper town, situated on a rock of -limestone, on the top of the point; and the lower town, built round the -bottom of the point, close to the water. The rock whereon the upper town -stands, in some places towards the water rises nearly perpendicularly, -so as to be totally inaccessible; in other places it is not so steep but -that there is a communication between the two towns, by means of streets -winding up the side of it, though even here the ascent is so great, that -there are long flights of stairs at one side of the streets for the -accommodation of foot passengers. - -The lower town lies very much exposed to an enemy, being defended merely -by a small battery towards the bason, which at the time of high tides is -nearly on a level with the water, and by barriers towards the river, in -which guns may be planted when there is any danger of an attack. - -The upper town, however, is a place of immense strength. Towards the -water it is so strongly guarded by nature, that it is found unnecessary -to have more than very slight walls; and in some particular places, -where the rock is inaccessible, are no walls at all. There are several -redoubts and batteries however here. The principal battery, which points -towards the bason, consists of twenty-two twenty-four pounders, two -French thirty-six pounders, and two large iron mortars; this battery is -flanked by another of six guns, that commands the passes from the lower -town. - -On the land side, the town owes its strength solely to the hand of art, -and here the fortifications are stupendous. Considerable additions and -improvements have been made to them since the place has been in the -possession of Great Britain; but even at the time when it belonged to -France, the works were so strong, that had it not been for the conduct -of M. de Montcalm, the French general, it is almost doubtful whether the -genius of the immortal Wolfe himself would not have been baffled in -attempting to reduce it. - -[Sidenote: GENERAL WOLFE.] - -Had M. de Montcalm, when the first intelligence of the British army’s -having ascended the Heights of Abraham was carried to him, instead of -disbelieving the account, and laughing at it as a thing impossible, -marched immediately to the attack, without giving General Wolfe time to -form his men; or had he, when the account was confirmed of the enemy’s -procedure, and of their having formed on the plain, waited for a large -division of his troops, whose station was below the town, and who might -have joined him in two hours, instead of marching out to give General -Wolfe battle with the troops he had with him at the time, the fate of -the day might have turned out very differently; or had he, instead of -hazarding a battle at all, retired within the walls of the city and -defended it, the place was so strong that there is reason to think it -might have held out until the approach of winter, when the British ships -must have quitted the river, and General Wolfe would consequently have -been under the necessity of raising the siege. - -General Wolfe thought it a vain attempt to make an assault on the side -of the town which lies towards the water, where the rock is so steep, -and so easily defended; his object was to get behind it, and to carry on -the attack on the land side, where there is an extensive plain adjoining -the town, and not a great deal lower than the highest part of the point. -In order to do so, he first of all attempted to land his troops some -miles below the town, near the Falls of Montmorenci. Here the banks of -the river are by no means so difficult of ascent as above the town; but -they were defended by a large division of the French forces, which had -thrown up several strong redoubts, and, in attempting to land, Wolfe was -repulsed with loss. - -[Sidenote: GENERAL ARNOLD.] - -Above Quebec, the banks of the river are extremely high, and so steep at -the same time, that by the French they were deemed inaccessible. Foiled, -however, in his first attempt to get on shore, General Wolfe formed the -bold design of ascending to the top of these banks, commonly called the -Heights of Abraham. To prepare the way for it, possession was taken of -Point Levi, the point situated opposite to that on which Quebec stands, -and from thence a heavy bombardment was commenced on the town, in order -to deceive the enemy. In the mean time boats were prepared; the troops -embarked; they passed the town with muffled oars, in the night, -unobserved, and landed at a cove, about two miles above. The soldiers -clambered up the heights with great difficulty, and the guns were hauled -up by means of ropes and pullies fixed round the trees, with which the -banks are covered from top to bottom. At the top the plain commences, -and extends close under the walls of the city: here it was that the -memorable battle was fought, in which General Wolfe unhappily perished, -at the very moment when all his noble exertions were about to be crowned -with that success which they so eminently deserved. The spot where the -illustrious hero breathed his last is marked with a large stone, on -which a true meridional line is drawn. - -[Illustration: - - VIEW of CAPE DIAMOND - _J Weld del._ - _Published Dec. 18. 1798, by J. Stockdale, Piccadilly._ -] - -Notwithstanding that the great Wolfe found it such a very difficult task -to get possession of Quebec, and that it has been rendered so much -stronger since his time, yet the people of the United States confidently -imagine, at this day, that if there were a rupture with Great Britain, -they need only send an army thither, and the place must fall into their -hands immediately. Arnold, after his return from the expedition against -the place, under Montgomery, in the year 1775, used frequently to -declare, that if he had not been wounded he should certainly have -carried it. But however that expedition may be admired for its great -boldness, it was, in reality, far from being so nearly attended with -success as the vanity of Arnold has led his countrymen to imagine. - -All thoughts of taking the city by a regular siege were abandoned by the -Americans, when they came before it; it was only by attempting to storm -it at an unexpected hour that they saw any probability of wresting it -from the British. The night of the thirty-first of December was -accordingly fixed upon, and the city was attacked at the same moment in -three places. But although the garrison were completely surprised, and -the greater part of the rampart guns had been dismounted, and laid up -for the winter, during which season it was thought impossible for an -army to make an attack so vigorous that cannon would be wanting to repel -it, yet the Americans were at once baffled in their attempt. Arnold, in -endeavouring to force St. John’s Gate, which leads out on the back part -of the town, not far from the plains of Abraham, was wounded, and -repulsed with great loss. Montgomery surprised the guard of the first -barrier, at one end of the lower town, and passed it; but at the second -he was shot, and his men were driven back. The third division of the -Americans entered the lower town in another quarter, which, as I have -before said, lies very much exposed, by passing over the ice: they -remained there for a day or two, and during that time they set fire to -some buildings, amongst which was one of the religious houses; but they -were finally dislodged without much difficulty. The two divisions under -Montgomery and Arnold were repulsed with a mere handful of men: the -different detachments, sent down from the upper town against the former, -did not altogether amount, it is said, to two hundred men. Arnold’s -attack was the maddest possible; for St. John’s Gate, and the walls -adjoining, are stupendous, and a person need but see them to be -convinced that any attempt to storm them must be fruitless without the -aid of heavy artillery, which the Americans had not. - -[Sidenote: CITADEL.] - -Independent of what it owes to its fortifications, and situation on the -top of a rock, Quebec is indebted for much of its strength to the -severity and great length of the winter, as in that season it is wholly -impracticable for a besieging army either to carry on any works or -blockade the town. - -It requires about five thousand soldiers to man the works at Quebec -completely. A large garrison is always kept in it, and abundance of -stores of every description. The troops are lodged partly in barracks, -and partly in block houses near Cape Diamond, which is the most elevated -part of the point, and is reckoned to be upwards of one thousand feet -above the level of the river. The Cape is strongly fortified, and may be -considered as the citadel of Quebec; it commands the town in every -direction, and also the plains at the outside of the walls. The evening -and morning guns, and all salutes and signals, are fired from hence. -Notwithstanding the great height of the rock above the river, water may -readily be had even at the very top of it, by sinking wells of a -moderate depth, and in some particular places, at the sides of the rock, -it gushes out in large streams. The water is of a very good quality. - -No census has been lately taken of the number of houses and inhabitants -in Quebec; but it is supposed that, including the upper and lower towns -and suburbs, there are at least two thousand dwellings; at the rate of -six therefore to each house, the number of inhabitants would amount to -twelve thousand. About two thirds of the inhabitants are of French -extraction. The society in Quebec is agreeable, and very extensive for a -place of the size, owing to its being the capital of the lower province, -and therefore the residence of the governor, different civil officers, -principal lawyers, &c. &c. The large garrison constantly kept in it -makes the place appear very gay and lively. - -The lower town of Quebec is mostly inhibited by the traders who are -concerned with the shipping, and it is a very disagreeable place. The -streets are narrow and dirty, and owing to the great height of the -houses in most of them, the air is much confined; in the streets next to -the water also, there is oftentimes an intolerable stench from the shore -when the tide is out. The upper town, on the contrary, is extremely -agreeable: from its elevated situation the air is as pure as possible, -and the inhabitants are never oppressed with heat in summer; it is far, -however, from being well laid out, the streets being narrow and very -irregular. The houses are for the most part built of stone, and except a -few, erected of late years, small, ugly, and inconvenient. - -[Sidenote: GOVERNOR’S CHATEAU.] - -The chateau, wherein the governor resides, is a plain building of common -stone, situated in an open place, the houses round which, form three -sides of an oblong square. It consists of two parts. The old and the new -are separated from each other by a spacious court. The former stands -just on the verge of an inaccessible part of the rock; behind it, on the -outside, there is a long gallery, from whence, if a pebble were let -drop, it would fall at least sixty feet perpendicularly. This old part -is chiefly taken up with the public offices, and all the apartments in -it are small and ill contrived; but in the new part, which stands in -front of the other, facing the square, they are spacious, and tolerably -well finished, but none of them can be called elegant. This part is -inhabited by the governor’s family. The chateau is built with out any -regularity of design, neither the old nor the new part having even an -uniform front. It is not a place of strength, as commonly represented. -In the garden adjoining to it is merely a parapet wall along the edge of -the rock, with embrasures, in which a few small guns are planted, -commanding a part of the lower town. Every evening during summer, when -the weather is fine, one of the regiments of the garrison parades in the -open place before the chateau, and the band plays for an hour or two, at -which time the place becomes the resort of numbers of the most genteel -people of the town, and has a very gay appearance. - -Opposite to the chateau there is a monastery belonging to the Recollets -or Franciscan friars; a very few only of the order are now left. -Contiguous to this building is the college belonging to the Jesuits, -whose numbers have diminished even still faster than that of the -Recollets; one old man alone of the brotherhood is left, and in him are -centered the immense possessions of that once powerful body in Canada, -bringing in a yearly revenue of £. 10,000 sterling. This old man, whose -lot it has been to outlive all the rest of the order, is by birth a -Swiss: in his youth he was no more than a porter to the college, but -having some merit he was taken notice of, promoted to a higher -situation, and in the end created a lay brother. Though a very old man -he is extremely healthy; he possesses an amiable disposition, and is -much beloved on account of the excellent use he makes of his large -fortune, which is chiefly employed in charitable purposes. On his death -the property falls to the crown. - -The nunneries are three in number, and as there is no restriction upon -the female religious orders, they are all well filled. The largest of -them, called L’Hospital General, stands in the suburbs, outside of the -walls; another, of the order of St. Ursule, is not far distant from the -chateau. - -[Sidenote: QUEBEC MARKET.] - -The engineer’s drawing room, in which are kept a variety of models, -together with plans of the fortifications of Quebec and other fortresses -in Canada, is an old building, near the principal battery. Adjoining -thereto stands the house where the legislative council and assembly of -representatives meet, which is also an old building, that has been -plainly fitted up to accommodate the legislature. - -The armoury is situated near the artillery barrack, in another part of -the town. About ten thousand stand of arms are kept in it, arranged in a -similar manner with the arms in the Tower of London, but, if possible, -with greater neatness and more fancy. - -The artillery barracks are capable of containing about five hundred men, -but the principal barracks are calculated to contain a much larger -number; they stand in the market place, not far distant from the square -in which the chateau is situated, but more in the heart of the town. - -The market of Quebec is extremely well supplied with provisions every -kind, which may be purchased at a much more moderate price than in any -town I visited in the United States. It is a matter of curiosity to a -stranger to see the number of dogs yoked in little carts, that are -brought into this market by the people who attend it. The Canadian dogs -are found extremely useful in drawing burthens, and there is scarcely a -family in Quebec or Montreal, that does not keep one or more of them for -that purpose. They are somewhat similar to the Newfoundland breed, but -broader across the loins, and have shorter and thicker legs; in general -they are handsome, and wonderfully docile and sagacious; their strength -is prodigious; I have seen a single dog, in more than one instance, draw -a man for a considerable distance that could not weigh less than ten -stone. People, during the winter season, frequently perform long -journeys on the snow with half a dozen or more of these animals yoked in -a cariole or sledge. - -[Sidenote: SUBLIME VIEWS.] - -I must not conclude this letter without making mention of the scenery -that is exhibited to the view, from various parts of the upper town of -Quebec, which, for its grandeur, its beauty, and its diversity, -surpasses all that I have hitherto seen in America, or indeed in any -other part of the globe. In the variegated expanse that is laid open -before you, stupendous rocks, immense rivers, trackless forests and -cultivated plains, mountains, lakes, towns, and villages, in turn strike -the attention, and the senses are almost bewildered in contemplating the -vastness of the scene. Nature is here seen on the grandest scale; and it -is scarcely possible for the imagination to paint to itself any thing -more sublime than are the several prospects presented to the sight of -the delighted spectator. From Cape Diamond, situated one thousand feet -above the level of the river, and the loftiest part of the rock on which -the city is built, the prospect is considered by many as superior to -that from any other spot. A greater extent of country opens upon you, -and the eye is here enabled to take in more at once, than at any other -place; but to me it appears, that the view from the cape is by no means -so fine as that, for instance, from the battery; for in surveying the -different objects below you from such a stupendous height, their -magnitude is in a great measure lost, and it seems as if you were -looking at a draft of the country more than at the country itself. It is -the upper battery that I allude to, facing the bason, and is about three -hundred feet above the level of the water. Here, if you stand but a few -yards from the edge of the precipice, you may look down at once upon the -river, the vessels upon which, as they sail up to the wharfs before the -lower town, appear as if they were coming under your very feet. The -river itself, which is between five and six miles wide, and visible as -far as the distant end of the island of Orleans, where it loses itself -amidst the mountains that bound it on each side, is one of the most -beautiful objects in nature, and on a fine still summer’s evening it -often wears the appearance of a vast mirror, where the varied rich tints -of the sky, as well as the images of the different objects on the banks, -are seen reflected with inconceivable lustre. The southern bank of the -river, indented fancifully with bays and promontories, remains nearly in -a state of nature, clothed with lofty trees; but the opposite shore is -thickly covered with houses, extending as along other parts of the river -already mentioned, in one uninterrupted village, seemingly, as far as -the eye can reach. On this side the prospect is terminated by an -extensive range of mountains, the flat lands situated between and the -villages on the banks not being visible to a spectator at Quebec, it -seems as if the mountains rose directly out of the water, and the houses -were built on their steep and rugged sides. - -[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.] - -Beautiful as the environs of the city appear when seen at a distance, -they do not appear less so on a more close inspection; and in passing -through them the eye is entertained with a most pleasing variety of fine -landscapes, whilst the mind is equally gratified with the appearance of -content and happiness that reigns in the countenances of the -inhabitants. Indeed, if a country as fruitful as it is picturesque, a -genial and healthy climate, and a tolerable share of civil and religious -liberty, can make people happy, none ought to appear more so than the -Canadians, during this delightful season of the year. - -Before I dismiss this subject entirely, I must give you a brief account -of two scenes in the vicinity of Quebec, more particularly deserving of -attention than any others. The one is the Fall of the River Montmorenci; -the other, that of the Chaudiere. The former stream runs into the St. -Lawrence, about seven miles below Quebec; the latter joins the same -river nearly at an equal distance above the city. - -The Montmorenci River runs in a very irregular course, through a wild -and thickly wooded country, over a bed of broken rocks, till it comes to -the brink of a precipice, down which it descends in one uninterrupted -and nearly perpendicular fall of two hundred and forty feet. The stream -of water in this river, except at the time of floods, is but scanty, but -being broken into foam by rushing with such rapidity as it does over the -rocks at the top of the precipice, it is thereby much dilated, and in -its fall appears to be a sheet of water of no inconsiderable magnitude. -The breadth of the river at top, from bank to bank, is about fifty feet -only. In its fall, the water has the exact appearance of snow, as when -thrown in heaps from the roof of a house, and it seemingly descends with -a very slow motion. The spray at the bottom is considerable, and when -the sun happens to shine bright in the middle of the day, the prismatic -colours are exhibited in it in all their variety and lustre. At the -bottom of the precipice the water is confined in a sort of bason, as it -were, by a mass of rock, extending nearly across the fall, and out of -this it flows with a gentle current to the St. Lawrence, which is about -three hundred yards distant. The banks of the Montmorenci, below the -precipice, are nearly perpendicular on one side, and on both -inaccessible, so that if a person be desirous of getting to the bottom -of the fall, he must descend down the banks of the St. Lawrence, and -walk along the margin of that river till he comes to the chasm through -which the Montmorenci flows. To a person sailing along the St. Lawrence, -past the mouth of the chasm, the fall appears in great beauty. - -[Sidenote: GRAND FALLS.] - -General Haldimand, formerly governor of Canada, was so much delighted -with this cataract, that he built a dwelling house close to it, from the -parlour windows of which it is seen in a very advantageous point of -view. In front of the house is a neat lawn, that runs down the whole way -to the St. Lawrence, and in various parts of it little summer-houses -have been erected, each of which commands a view of the fall. There is -also a summer-house, situated nearly at the top of the fall, hanging -directly over the precipice, so that if a bullet were dropped from the -window, it would descend in a perpendicular line at least two hundred -feet. This house is supported by large beams of timber, fixed into the -sides of the chasm, and in order to get to it you have to pass over -several flights of steps, and one or two wooden galleries, which are -supported in the same manner. The view from hence is tremendously grand. -It is said, that the beams whereon this little edifice is erected are in -a state of decay, and many persons are fearful of entering into it, lest -they should give way; but being ignorant of the danger, if indeed there -was any, our whole party ventured into it at once, and staid there a -considerable time, notwithstanding its tremulous motion at every step we -trod. That the beams cannot last for ever is certain; it would be a wise -measure, therefore, to have them removed or repaired in proper time, for -as long as they remain standing, persons will be found that will venture -into the unsteady fabrick they support, and should they give way at a -moment when any persons are in it, the catastrophe must inevitably be -fatal. - -The fall in the River Chaudiere is not half the height of that of the -Montmorenci, but then it is no less than two hundred and fifty feet in -breadth. The scenery round this cataract is much superior in every -respect to that in the neighbourhood of the Montmorenci. Contiguous to -the latter there are few trees of any great magnitude, and nothing is -near it to relieve the eye; you have the fall, and nought but the fall, -to contemplate. The banks of La Chaudiere, on the contrary, are covered -with trees of the largest growth, and amidst the piles of broken rocks, -which lie scattered about the place, you have some of the wildest and -most romantic views imaginable. As for the fall itself, its grandeur -varies with the season. When the river is full, a body of water comes -rushing over the rocks of the precipice that astonishes the beholder; -but in dry weather, and indeed during the greater part of the summer, we -may say, the quantity of water is but trifling. At this season there are -few but what would prefer the falls of the Montmorenci River, and I am -tempted to imagine that, upon the whole, the generality of people would -give it the preference at all times. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XXV. - -_Of the Constitution, Government, Laws, and Religion of the Provinces of - Upper and Lower Canada.—Estimate of the Expenses of the Civil List, of - the Military Establishment, and the Presents to the Indians.—Salaries - of certain Officers of the Crown.—Imports and Exports.—Taxes._ - - - Quebec. - -FROM the time that Canada was ceded to Great Britain until the year -1774, the internal affairs of the province were regulated by the -ordinance of the governor alone. In pursuance of the Quebec Bill, which -was then passed, a legislative council was appointed by his Majesty in -the country; the number of members was limited to twenty-three. This -council had full power to make all such ordinances and regulations as -were thought expedient for the welfare of the province; but it was -prohibited from levying any taxes, except for the purpose of making -roads, repairing public buildings, or the like. Every ordinance was to -be laid before the governor, for his Majesty’s approbation, within six -months from the time it was passed, and no ordinance, imposing a greater -punishment on any person or persons than a fine, or imprisonment for -three months, was valid without his Majesty’s assent, signified to the -council by the governor. - -Thus were the affairs of the province regulated until the year 1791, -when an act was passed in the British parliament, repealing so much of -the Quebec Bill as related to the appointment of a council, and to the -powers that had been granted to it; and which established the present -form of government. - -The country, at the same time, was divided into two distinct provinces; -the province of Lower Canada, and the province of Upper Canada. The -former is the eastern part of the old province of Canada; the latter, -the western part, situated on the northern sides of the great lakes and -rivers through which the boundary line runs that separates the British -territories from those of the United States. The two provinces are -divided from each other by a line, which runs north, 24° west, -commencing at Point au Baudet, in that part of the river St. Lawrence -called Lake Francis, and continuing on from thence to the Utawas or -Grand River. The city of Quebec is the capital of the lower province, as -the town of Niagara is of the upper one. - -[Sidenote: CONSTITUTION OF CANADA.] - -The executive power in each province is vested in the governor, who has -for his advice an executive council appointed by his Majesty. The -legislative power of each province is vested in the governor, a -legislative council, and an assembly of the representatives of the -people. Their acts, however, are subject to the controul of his Majesty, -and in some particular cases to the controul of the British parliament. - -Bills are passed in the council and in the assembly in a form somewhat -similar to that in which bills are carried through the British houses of -parliament; they are then laid before the governor, who gives or -withholds his assent, or reserves them for his Majesty’s pleasure. - -Such bills as he assents to are put in force immediately; but he is -bound to transmit a true copy of them to the King, who in council may -declare his disallowance of them within two years from the time of their -being received, in which case they become void. - -Such as are reserved for his Majesty’s assent are not to be put in force -until that is received. - -Moreover, every act of the assembly and council, which goes to repeal or -vary the laws or regulations that were in existence at the time the -present constitution was established in the country respecting tithes; -the appropriation of land for the support of a protestant clergy; the -constituting and endowing of parsonages or rectories; the right of -presentation to the same, and the manner in which the incumbents shall -hold them; the enjoyment and exercise of any form or mode of worship; -the imposing of any burdens and disqualifications on account of the -same; the rights of the clergy to recover their accustomed dues; the -imposing or granting of any farther dues or emoluments to any -ecclesiastics; the establishment and discipline of the church of -England; the King’s prerogative, touching the granting of waste lands of -the crown within the province; every such act, before it receives the -royal assent, must be laid before both houses of parliament in Great -Britain, and the King must not give his assent thereto until thirty days -after the same has been laid before parliament; and in case either house -of parliament presents an address to the King to withhold his assent to -any such act or acts, it cannot be given. - -By an act passed in the eighteenth year of his present Majesty’s reign, -the British parliament has also the power of making any regulations -which may be found expedient, respecting the commerce and navigation of -the province, and also of imposing import and export duties; but all -such duties are to be applied solely to the use of the province, and in -such a manner only as the laws made in the council and assembly direct. - -[Sidenote: LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL.] - -The legislative council of Lower Canada consists of fifteen members; -that of Upper Canada of seven. The number of the members in each -province must never be less than this; but it may be increased whenever -his Majesty thinks fit. - -The counsellors are appointed for life, by an instrument under the great -seal of the province, signed by the governor, who is invested with -powers for that purpose by the King. No person can be a counsellor who -is not twenty-one years of age, nor any one who is not a natural born -subject, or who has not been naturalized according to act of parliament. - -Whenever his Majesty thinks proper, he may confer on any persons -hereditary titles of honour, with a right annexed to them of being -summoned to sit in this council, which right the heir may claim at the -age of twenty-one; the right, however, cannot be acknowledged if the -heir has been absent from the province without leave of his Majesty, -signified to the council by the governor, for four years together, -between the time of his succeeding to the right and the time of his -demanding it. The right is forfeited also, if the heir takes an oath of -allegiance to any foreign power before he demands it, unless his -Majesty, by an instrument under the great seal of the province, should -decree to the contrary. - -If a counsellor, after having taken his seat, absent himself from the -province for two years successively, without leave from his Majesty, -signified to the council by the governor, his seat is also thereby -vacated. - -All hereditary rights, however, of sitting in council, so forfeited, are -only to be suspended during the life of the defaulters, and on their -death they descend with the titles to the next heirs[32]. - -Footnote 32: - - No hereditary titles, with this right annexed, have yet been conferred - on any persons in Canada by his Britannic Majesty. - -In cases of treason, both the title and right of sitting in the council -are extinguished. - -All questions concerning the right of being summoned to the council are -to be determined by the council; but an appeal may be had from their -decision to his Majesty in his parliament of Great Britain. - -The governor has the power of appointing and removing the speaker of the -council. - -The assembly of Lower Canada consists of fifty members, and that of -Upper Canada of sixteen; neither assembly is ever to consist of a less -number. - -[Sidenote: THE ASSEMBLY.] - -The members for districts, circles, or counties, are chosen by a -majority of the votes of such persons as are possessed of lands or -tenements in freehold, in fief, in boture, or by certificate derived -under the authority of the governor and council of Quebec, of the yearly -value of forty shillings, clear of all rents, charges, &c. The members -for towns or townships are chosen by a majority of the votes of such -persons as possess houses and lands for their own use, of the yearly -value of five pounds sterling, or as have resided in the town or -township for one year, and paid a rent for a house during the time, at -the rate of ten pounds yearly. - -No person is eligible to serve as a member of the assembly, who is a -member of the legislative council, or a minister, priest, ecclesiastic, -or religious personage of the church of England, Rome, or of any other -church. - -No person is qualified to vote or serve, who is not twenty-one years of -age; nor any person, not a natural born subject, or who has not been -naturalized, either by law or conquest; nor any one who has been -attainted of treason in any court in his Majesty’s dominions, or who has -been disqualified by an act of assembly and council. - -Every voter, if called upon, must take an oath, either in French or -English, that he is of age; that he is qualified to vote according to -law; and that he has not voted before at that election. - -The governor has the power of appointing the place of session, and of -calling together, of proroguing, and of dissolving the assembly. - -The assembly is not to last longer than four years, but it may be -dissolved sooner. The governor is bound to call it at least once in each -year. - -The oath of a member, on taking his seat, is comprised in a few words: -he promises to bear true allegiance to the King, as lawful sovereign of -Great Britain, and the province of Canada dependant upon it; to defend -him against all traitorous conspiracies and attempts against his person; -and to make known to him all such conspiracies and attempts, which he -may at any time be acquainted with; all which he promises without mental -evasion, reservation, or equivocation, at the same time renouncing all -pardons and dispensations from any person or power whatsoever. - -The governors of the two provinces are totally independent of each other -in their civil capacity: in military affairs, the governor of the lower -province takes precedence, as he is usually created captain general of -his Majesty’s forces in North America. - -[Sidenote: QUEBEC BILL.] - -The present system of judicature in each province was established by the -Quebec bill of 1774. By this bill it was enacted, that all persons in -the country should be entitled to hold their lands or possessions in the -same manner as before the conquest, according to the laws and usages -then existing in Canada; and that all controversies relative to property -or civil rights should also be determined by the same laws and usages. -These old laws and usages, however, were not to extend to the lands -which might thereafter be granted by his Britannic Majesty in free and -common socage: here English laws were to be in full force; so that the -English inhabitants[33], who have settled for the most part on new -lands, are not subject to the controul of these old French laws, that -were existing in Canada when the country was conquered, except a dispute -concerning property or civil rights should arise between any of them and -the French inhabitants, in which case the matter is to be determined by -the French laws. Every friend to civil liberty would wish to see these -laws abolished, for they weigh very unequally in favour of the rich and -of the poor; but as long as the French inhabitants remain so wedded as -they are at present to old customs, and so very ignorant, there is -little hope of seeing any alteration of this nature take place. At the -same time that the French laws were suffered by the Quebec bill to -exist, in order to conciliate the affections of the French inhabitants, -who were attached to them, the criminal law of England was established -throughout every part of the country; “and this was one of the happiest -circumstances,” as the Abbé Raynal observes, “that Canada could -experience; as deliberate, rational, public trials took place of the -impenetrable mysterious transactions of a cruel inquisition; and as a -tribunal, that had theretofore been dreadful and sanguinary, was filled -with humane judges, more disposed to acknowledge innocence than to -suppose criminality.” - -Footnote 33: - - I must observe here once for all that by English inhabitants I mean - all those whose native language is English, in contradistinction to - the Canadians of French extraction, who universally speak the French - language, and no other. - -The governor, the lieutenant governor, or the person administering the -government, the members of the executive council, the chief justices of -the province, and the judges of the court of king’s bench, or any five -of them, form a court of appeal, the judges however excepted of that -district from whence the appeal is made. From the decision of this court -an appeal may be had in certain cases to the King in council. - -[Sidenote: TOLERATION.] - -Every religion is tolerated, in the fullest extent of the word, in both -provinces; and no disqualifications are imposed on any persons on -account of their religious opinions. The Roman Catholic religion is that -of a great majority of the inhabitants; and by the Quebec bill of 1774, -the ecclesiastics of that persuasion are empowered by law to recover all -the dues which, previous to that period, they were accustomed to -receive, as well as tithes, that is, from the Roman Catholic -inhabitants; but they cannot exact any dues or tithes from Protestants, -or off lands held by Protestants, although formerly such lands might -have been subjected to dues and tithes for the support of the Roman -Catholic church. The dues and tithes from off these lands are still, -however, to be paid; but they are to be paid to persons appointed by the -governor, and the amount of them is to be reserved, in the hands of his -Majesty’s receiver general, for the support of the Protestant clergy -actually residing in the province. - -By the act of the year 1791, also, it was ordained, that the governor -should allot out of all lands belonging to the crown, which, should be -granted after that period, one-seventh for the benefit of a Protestant -clergy, to be solely applicable to their use; and all such allotments -must be particularly specified in every grant of waste lands, otherwise -the grant is void. - -With the advice of the executive council, the governor is authorized to -constitute or erect parsonages or rectories, and to endow them out of -these appropriations, and to present incumbents to them, ordained -according to the rites of the church of England; which incumbents are to -perform the same duties, and to hold their parsonages or rectories in -the same manner as incumbents of the church of England do in that -country. - -The clergy of the church of England, in both provinces, consists at -present of twelve persons only, including the bishop of Quebec; that of -the church of Rome, however, consists of no less than one hundred and -twenty-six; viz. a bishop, who takes his title from Quebec, his -“coadjuteur élu,” who is bishop of Canathe, three vicars general, and -one hundred and sixteen curates and missionaries, all of whom are -resident in the lower province, except five curates and missionaries. - -The number of the dissenting clergy, in both provinces, is considerably -smaller than that of the clergy of the church of England. - -[Sidenote: PRESENTS AND SALARIES.] - -The expences of the civil list in Lower Canada are estimated at £.20,000 -sterling per annum, one half of which is defrayed by Great Britain, and -the remainder by the province, out of the duties paid on the importation -of certain articles. The expence of the civil list in Upper Canada is -considerably less; perhaps not so much as a fourth of that of the lower -province. - -The military establishment in both provinces, together with the repairs -of fortifications, &c. are computed to cost Great Britain annually -£.100,000 sterling. - -The presents distributed amongst the Indians, and the salaries paid to -the different officers in the Indian department, are estimated at -£.100,000 sterling more, annually. - -Amongst the officers in the Indian department are, superintendants -general, deputy superintendants, inspectors general, deputy inspectors -general, secretaries, assistant secretaries, storekeepers, clerks, -agents, interpreters, issuers of provisions, surgeons, gunsmiths, &c. -&c. &c. most of whom, in the lower province, have now sinecure places, -as there are but few Indians in the country; but in the upper province -they have active service to perform. Of the policy of issuing presents -to such a large amount amongst the Indians, more will be said in the -afterpart of this work. - -[Sidenote: IMPORT DUTIES.] - -The following is a statement of some of the salaries paid to the -officers of government in Lower Canada. - - £. - - Governor general 2,000 - - Lieutenant governor 1,500 - - Executive counsellors, each 100 - - Attorney general 300 - - Solicitor general 200 - - Secretary and register to the province 400 - - Clerk of the court of appeals, with 120 - firewood and stationary - - Secretary to the governor 200 - - French secretary to the governor, and 200 - translator to the council - - Chief justice of Quebec, who is chief 1,200 - justice of the province - - Chief justice of Montreal 900 - - Chief justice of Three Rivers 300 - - Receiver general 400 - - Surveyor general of lands 300 - - Deputy, and allowance for an office 150 - - Surveyor of woods 200 - - Grand voyer of Quebec 100 - - Grand voyer of Montreal 100 - - Grand voyer of Three Rivers 60 - - Superintendant of provincial post houses 100 - - Clerk of the terraro of the king’s 90 - domain - - Clerk of the crown 100 - - Inspector of police at Quebec 100 - - Inspector of police at Montreal 100 - - Four missionaries to Indians, each 50 - - One missionary to Indians 45 - - Schoolmaster at Quebec 100 - - Schoolmaster at Montreal 50 - - Schoolmaster at Carlisle, Bay de 25 - Chaleurs - - Overseers, to prevent fires at Quebec, 60 - and to sweep the chimneys of the - poor - - Salary of the bishop of Quebec, who is 2,000 - bishop of both provinces - -The pensions, between January 1794 and January 1795, amounted to -£.1,782. 6_s._ 7_d._ - - * * * * * - -A STATEMENT of the Articles subject to Duty on Importation into Canada, -and of the Duties payable thereon. - - _s._ - _d._ - - Brandy and other spirits, the . 3 - manufacture of Great Britain, per - gallon - - Rum and other spirits, imported from the . 6 - colonies in the West Indies, per - gallon - - Brandy and spirits of foreign 1 0 - manufacture, imported from Great - Britain, per gallon - - Additional duty on the same, per gallon . 3 - - Rum or spirits manufactured in the 1 0 - United States, per gallon - - Molasses and Syrups imported in British . 3 - shipping, per gallon - - Additional duty, per gallon . 3 - - Molasses or Syrups legally imported in . 6 - other than British shipping, per - gallon - - Additional duty, per gallon . 3 - - Madeira wine, per gallon . 6 - - Other wine . 3 - -N.B. Wine can be imported directly from Madeira, or from any of the -African islands, into Canada; but no European wine or brandy can be -imported, except through England. - - Loaf or lump sugar, 1 - per lb. - - Muscovado or clayed ½ - sugar - - Coffee, per lb. 2 - - Leaf tobacco, per 2 - lb. - - Playing cards, per 2 - pack - - Salt, the minot 4 - -N.B. The minot is a measure commonly used in Canada, which is to the -Winchester bushel, as 100 is to 108,765. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: SOIL AND MANUFACTURES.] - -The imports into Canada consist of all the various articles which a -young country, that does not manufacture much for its own use, can be -supposed to stand in need of; such as earthen ware, hardware, and -household furniture, except of the coarser kinds; woollen and linen -cloths, haberdashery, hosiery, &c.; paper, stationary, leather and -manufactures of leather, groceries, wines, spirits, West Indian produce, -&c. &c.; cordage of every description, and even the coarser manufactures -of iron, are also imported. - -The soil of the country is well adapted to the growth of hemp, and great -pains have been taken to introduce the culture of it. Handbills, -explaining the manner in which it can be raised to the best advantage, -have been assiduously circulated amongst the farmers, and posted up at -all the public houses. It is a difficult matter, however, to put the -French Canadians out of their old ways, so that very little hemp has -been raised in consequence of the pains that have been thus taken; and -it is not probable that much will be raised for a considerable time to -come. - -Iron ore has been discovered in various parts of the country; but works -for the smelting and manufacturing of it have been erected at one place -only, in the neighbourhood of Trois Rivieres. These works were erected -by the king of France some time before the conquest: they are now the -property of the British government, and are rented out to the persons -who hold them at present. When the lease expires, which will be the case -about the year 1800, it is thought that no one will be found to carry on -the works, as the bank of ore, from whence they are supplied, is nearly -exhausted. The works consist of a forge and a foundry: iron stoves are -the principal articles manufactured in the latter; but they are not so -much esteemed as those from England. - -Domestic manufactures are carried on in most parts of Canada, consisting -of linen and of coarse woollen cloths; but by far the greater part of -these articles used in the country is imported from Great Britain. - -The experts from Canada consist of furs and pelts in immense quantities; -of wheat, flour, flax-seed, potash, timber, staves, and lumber of all -sorts; dried fish, oil, ginseng, and various medicinal drugs. - -The trade between Canada and Great Britain employs, it is said, about -seven thousand tons of shipping annually. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XXVI. - -_Of the Soil and Productions of Lower Canada.—Observations on the - Manufacture of Sugar from the Maple-tree.—Of the Climate of Lower - Canada.—Amusements of People of all Descriptions during - Winter.—Carioles.—Manner of guarding against the Cold.—Great Hardiness - of the Horses.—State of the River St. Lawrence on the Dissolution of - Winter.—Rapid Progress of Vegetation during Spring.—Agreeableness of - the Summer and Autumn Seasons._ - - - Quebec. - -THE eastern part of Lower Canada, between Quebec and the Gulph of St. -Lawrence, is mountainous; between Quebec and the mouth of the Utawas -River also a few scattered mountains are to be met with; but higher up -the River St. Lawrence the face of the country is flat. - -The soil, except where small tracts of stony and sandy land intervene, -consists principally of a loose dark coloured earth, and of the depth of -ten or twelve inches, below which there is a bed of cold clay. This -earth towards the surface is extremely fertile, of which there cannot be -a greater proof than that it continues to yield plentiful crops, -notwithstanding its being worked year after year by the French -Canadians, without ever being manured. It is only within a few years -back, indeed, that any of the Canadians have begun to manure their -lands, and many still continue, from father to son, to work the same -fields without intermission, and without ever putting any manure upon -them, yet the land is not exhausted, as it would be in the United States. -The manure principally made use of by those who are the best farmers is -marl, found in prodigious quantities in many places along the shores of -the River St. Lawrence. - -The soil of Lower Canada is particularly suited to the growth of small -grain. Tobacco also thrives well in it; it is only raised, however, in -small quantities for private use, more than one half of what is used in -the country being imported. The Canadian tobacco is of a much milder -quality than that grown in Maryland and Virginia: the snuff made from it -is held in great estimation. - -[Sidenote: VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS.] - -Culinary vegetables of every description come to the greatest perfection -in Canada, as well as most of the European fruits: the currants, -gooseberries, and raspberries are in particular very fine; the latter -are indigenous, and are found in profusion in the woods; the vine is -also indigenous, but the grapes which it produces in its uncultivated -state are very poor, sour, and but little larger than fine currants. - -The variety of trees found in the forests of Canada is prodigious, and -it is supposed that many kinds are still unknown: beech trees, oaks, -elms, ashes, pines, sycamores, chesnuts, walnuts, of each of which -several different species are commonly met with; the sugar maple tree is -also found in almost every part of the country, a tree never seen but -upon good ground. There are two kinds of this very valuable tree in -Canada; the one called the swamp maple, from its being generally found -upon low lands; the other, the mountain or curled maple, from growing -upon high dry ground, and from the grain of the wood being very -beautifully variegated with little stripes and curls. The former yields -a much greater quantity of sap, in proportion to its size, than the -other, but this sap does not afford so much sugar as that of the curled -maple. A pound of sugar is frequently procured from two or three gallons -of the sap of the curled maple, whereas no more than the same quantity -can be had from six or seven gallons of that of the swamp. - -The most approved method of getting the sap is by piercing a hole with -an auger in the side of the tree, of one inch or an inch and a half in -diameter, and two or three inches in depth, obliquely upwards; but the -most common mode of coming at it is by cutting a large gash in the tree -with an axe. In each case a small spout is fixed at the bottom of the -wound, and a vessel is placed underneath to receive the liquor as it -falls. - -A maple tree of the diameter of twenty inches will commonly yield -sufficient sap for making five pounds of sugar each year, and instances -have been known of trees yielding nearly this quantity annually for a -series of thirty years. Trees that have been gashed and mangled with an -axe will not last by any means so long as those which have been -carefully pierced with an auger; the axe, however, is generally used, -because the sap distils much faster from the wound made by it than from -that made by an auger, and it is always an object with the farmer, to -have the sap brought home, and boiled down as speedily as possible, in -order that the making of sugar may not interfere with his other -agricultural pursuits. The season for tapping the trees is when the sap -begins to rise, at the commencement of spring, which is just the time -that the farmer is most busied in making preparations for sowing his -grain. - -[Sidenote: MAPLE TREES.] - -It is a very remarkable fact, that these trees, after having been tapped -for six or seven successive years, always yield more sap than they do on -being first wounded; this sap, however, is not so rich as that which the -trees distil for the first time; but from its coming in an increased -portion, as much sugar is generally procured from a single tree on the -fifth or sixth year of its being tapped as on the first. - -The maple is the only sort of raw sugar made use of in the country parts -of Canada; it is very generally used also by the inhabitants of the -towns, whither it is brought for sale by the country people who attend -the markets, just the same as any other kind of country produce. The -most common form in which it is seen is in loaves or thick round cakes, -precisely as it comes out of the vessel where it is boiled down from the -sap. These cakes are of a very dark colour in general, and very hard; as -they are wanted they are scraped down with a knife, and when thus -reduced into powder, the sugar appears of a much lighter cast, and not -unlike West Indian muscovada or grained sugar. If the maple sugar be -carefully boiled with lime, whites of eggs, blood, or any of the other -articles usually employed for clarifying sugar, and properly granulated, -by the draining off of the molasses, it is by no means inferior, either -in point of strength, flavour, or appearance to the eye, to any West -Indian sugar whatsoever: simply boiled down into cakes with milk or -whites of eggs it is very agreeable to the taste. - -The ingenious Dr. Nooth, of Quebec, who is at the head of the general -hospital in Canada, has made a variety of experiments upon the -manufacture of maple sugar; he has granulated, and also refined it, so -as to render it equal to the best lump sugar that is made in England. To -convince the Canadians also, who are as incredulous on some points as -they are credulous on others, that it was really maple sugar which they -saw thus refined, he has contrived to leave large lumps, exhibiting the -sugar in its different stages towards refinement, the lower part of the -lumps being left hard, similar to the common cakes, the middle part -granulated, and the upper part refined. - -[Sidenote: MAPLE TREES.] - -Dr. Nooth has calculated, that the sale of the molasses alone would be -fully adequate to the expence of refining the maple sugar, if a -manufactory for that purpose were established. Some attempts have been -made to establish one of the kind at Quebec, but they have never -succeeded, as the persons by whom they were made were adventurers that -had not sufficient capitals for such an undertaking. It ought not, -however, to be concluded from this, that a manufactory of the sort would -not succeed if conducted by judicious persons that had ample funds for -the business; on the contrary, it is highly probable that it would -answer. - -There is great reason also to suppose, that a manufactory for making the -sugar from the beginning, as well as for refining it, might be -established with advantage. - -Several acres together are often met with in Canada, entirely covered -with maple trees alone; but the trees are most usually found growing -mixed with others, in the proportion of from thirty to fifty maple trees -to every acre. Thousands and thousands of acres might be procured, -within a very short distance of the River St. Lawrence, for less than -one shilling an acre, on each of which thirty maple trees would be -found; but supposing that only twenty-five trees were found on each -acre, then on a track of five thousand acres, supposing each tree to -produce five pounds of sugar, 5,580 cwt. 2 qrs. 12 lbs. of sugar might -be made annually. - -The maple tree attains a growth sufficient for yielding five pounds of -sugar annually in the space of twenty years; as the oaks and other kinds -of trees, therefore, were cut away for different purposes, maples might -be planted in their room, which would be ready to be tapped by the time -that the old maple trees failed. Moreover, if these trees were planted -out in rows regularly, the trouble of collecting the sap from them would -be much less than if they stood widely scattered, as they do in their -natural state, and of course the expence of making the sugar would be -considerably lessened. Added to this, if young maples were constantly -set out in place of the other trees, as they were cut down, the estate, -at the end of twenty years, would yield ten times as much sugar as it -did originally. - -[Sidenote: MAPLE SUGAR.] - -It has been asserted, that the difficulty of maintaining horses and men -in the woods at the season of the year proper for making the sugar would -be so great, as to render every plan for the manufactory of the sugar on -an extensive scale abortive. This might be very true, perhaps, in the -United States, where the subject has been principally discussed, and -where it is that this objection has been made; but it would not hold -good in Canada. Many tracks, containing five thousand acres each, of -sugar maple land, might be procured in various parts of the country, no -part of any of which would be more than six English miles distant from a -populous village. The whole labour of boiling in each year would be over -in the space of six weeks; the trouble therefore of carrying food during -that period, for the men and horses that were wanting for the -manufactory, from a village into the woods, would be trifling, and a few -huts might be built for their accommodation in the woods at a small -expence. - -The great labour requisite for conveying the sap from the trees, that -grow so far apart, to the boiling house, has been adduced as another -objection to the establishment of an extensive sugar manufactory in the -woods. - -The sap, as I have before observed, is collected by private families, by -setting a vessel, into which it drops, under each tree, and from thence -carried by hand to the place where it is to be boiled. If a regular -manufactory, however, were established, the sap might be conveyed to the -boiling house with far less labour; small wooden troughs might be placed -under the wounds in each trees, by which means the sap might easily be -conveyed to the distance of twenty yards, if it were thought necessary, -into reservoirs. Three or four of these reservoirs might be placed on an -acre, and avenues opened through the woods, so as to admit carts with -proper vessels to pass from one to the other, in order to convey the sap -to the boiling houses. Mere sheds would answer for boiling houses, and -these might be erected at various different places on the estate, in -order to save the trouble of carrying the sap a great way. - -The expence of cutting down a few trees, so as to clear an avenue for a -cart, would not be much; neither would that of making the spouts, and -common tubs for reservoirs, be great in a country abounding with wood; -the quantity of labour saved by such means would, however, be very -considerable. - -When then, it is considered, that private families, who have to carry -the sap by hand from each tree to their own houses, and often at a -considerable distance from the woods, in order to boil it, can, with all -this labour, afford to sell sugar, equally good with that which comes -from the West Indies, at a much lower price than what the latter is sold -at; when it is considered also, that by going to the small expence, on -the first year, of making a few wooden spouts and tubs, a very great -portion of labour would be saved, and of course the profits on the sale -of the sugar would be far greater; there is good foundation for -thinking, that if a manufactory were established on such a plan as I -have hinted at, it would answer extremely well, and that maple sugar -would in a short time become a principal article of foreign commerce in -Canada. - -[Sidenote: AIR AND CLIMATE.] - -The sap of the maple tree is not only useful in yielding sugar; most -excellent vinegar may likewise be made from it. In company with several -gentlemen I tasted vinegar made from it by Dr. Nooth, allowed by every -one present to be much superior to the best French white wine vinegar; -for at the same time that it possessed equal acidity, it had a more -delicious flavour. - -Good table beer may likewise be made from the sap, which many would -mistake for malt liquor. - -If distilled, the sap affords a very fine spirit. - -The air of Lower Canada is extremely pure, and the climate is deemed -uncommonly salubrious, except only in the western parts of the province, -high up the River St. Lawrence, where, as is the case in almost every -part of the United States south of New England, between the ocean and -the mountains, the inhabitants suffer to a great degree from -intermittent fevers. From Montreal downwards, the climate resembles very -much that of the states of New England; the people live to a good old -age, and intermittents are quite unknown. This great difference in the -healthiness of the two parts of the province must be attributed to the -different aspects of the country; to the east, Lower Canada, like New -England, is mountainous, but to the west it is an extended flat. - -The extremes of heat and cold in Canada are amazing; in the months of -July and August the thermometer, according to Fahrenheit, is often known -to rise to 96°, yet a winter scarcely passes over but even the mercury -itself freezes. Those very sudden transitions, however, from heat to -cold, so common in the United States, and so very injurious to the -constitution, are unknown in Canada; the seasons also are much more -regular. - -The snow generally begins to fall in November; but sometimes it comes -down as early as the latter end of October. This is the most -disagreeable part of the whole year; the air is then cold and raw, and -the sky dark and gloomy; two days seldom pass over together without a -fall either of snow or sleet. By the end of the first or second week, -however, in December, the clouds are generally dissolved, the frost sets -in, the sky assumes a bright and azure hue, and for weeks together it -continues the same, without being obscured by a single cloud. - -[Sidenote: WINTER AMUSEMENTS.] - -The greatest degree of cold which they experience in Canada, is in the -month of January, when for a few days it is sometimes so intense, that -it is impossible for a human being to remain out of doors for any -considerable time, without evident danger of being frost bitten. These -very cold days, however, do not come altogether, but intervene generally -at some little distance from each other; and between them, in the depth -of winter, the air is sometimes so warm that people in exercise, in the -middle of the day, feel disposed to lay aside the thick fur cloaks -usually worn out of doors. - -Those who have ever passed a winter in Canada, have by no means that -dread of its severity, which some would have who have never experienced -a greater degree of cold than what is commonly felt in Great Britain; -and as for the Canadians themselves, they prefer the winter to every -other season; indeed I never met with a Canadian, rich or poor, male or -female, but what was of that opinion; nor ought this to excite our -surprise, when it is considered that they pass the winter so very -differently from what we do. If a Canadian were doomed to spend but six -weeks only in the country parts of England, when the ground was covered -with snow, I dare venture to say that he would be as heartily tired of -the sameness which then pervaded the face of nature, and as desirous of -beholding a green field once more, as any one of us. - -Winter in Canada is the season of general amusement. The clear frosty -weather no sooner commences, than all thoughts about business are laid -aside, and every one devotes himself to pleasure. The inhabitants meet -in convivial parties at each other’s houses, and pass the day with -music, dancing, card-playing, and every social entertainment that can -beguile the time. At Montreal, in particular, such a constant and -friendly intercourse is kept up amongst the inhabitants, that, as I have -often heard it mentioned, it appears then as if the town were inhabited -but by one large family. - -[Sidenote: WINTER TRAVELLING.] - -By means of their carioles or sledges, the Canadians transport -themselves over the snow, from place to place, in the most agreeable -manner, and with a degree of swiftness that appears almost incredible; -for with the same horse it is possible to go eighty miles in a day, so -light is the draft of one of these carriages, and so favourable is the -snow to the feet of the horse. The Canadian cariole or sledge is -calculated to hold two persons and a driver; it is usually drawn by one -horse; if two horses are made use of, they are put one before the other, -as the track in the roads will not admit of their going abreast. The -shape of the carriage is varied according to fancy, and it is a matter -of emulation amongst the gentlemen, who shall have the handsomest one. -There are two distinct kinds, however, of carioles, the open and the -covered. The former is commonly somewhat like the body of a capriole, -put upon two iron runners or slides, similar in shape to the irons of a -pair of skates; the latter consists of the body of a chariot put on -runners in the same manner, and covered entirely over with furs, which -are found by experience to keep out the cold much better than any other -covering whatsoever. Covered carioles are not much liked, except for the -purpose of going to a party in the evening; for the great pleasure of -carioling consists in seeing and being seen, and the ladies always go -out in most superb dresses of furs. The carioles glide over the snow -with great smoothness, and so little noise do they make in sliding -along, that it is necessary to have a number of bells attached to the -harness, or a person continually sounding a horn to guard against -accidents. The rapidity of the motion, with the sound of these bells and -horns, appears to be very conducive to cheerfulness, for you seldom see -a dull face in a cariole. The Canadians always take advantage of the -winter season to visit their friends who live at a distance, as -travelling is then so very expeditious; and this is another circumstance -which contributes, probably not a little, to render the winter so -extremely agreeable in their eyes. - -Though the cold is so very intense in Canada, yet the inhabitants never -suffer from it, constant experience having taught them how to guard -against it effectually. - -[Sidenote: DOMESTIC ANIMALS.] - -In the first place, by means of stoves they keep their habitations as -warm and comfortable as can be desired. In large houses they generally -have four or five stoves placed in the hall, and in the apartments on -the ground floor, from whence flues pass in different directions through -the upper rooms. Besides these stoves, they likewise frequently have -open fires in the lower apartments; it is more, however, on account of -the cheerful appearance they give to the room, than for the sake of the -warmth they communicate, as by the stoves the rooms can be heated to any -degree. Lest any cold blasts should penetrate from without, they have -also double doors, and if the house stands exposed, even double windows, -about six inches apart. The windows are made to open lengthwise in the -middle, on hinges, like folding doors, and where they meet they lock -together in a deep groove; windows of this description, when closed, are -found to keep out the cold air much better than the common sashes, and -in warm weather they are more agreeable than any other sort, as they -admit more air when opened. Nor do the inhabitants suffer from cold when -they go abroad; for they never stir out without first wrapping -themselves up in furs from head to foot. Their caps entirely cover the -ears, the back of the neck, and the greatest part of the face, leaving -nothing exposed except the eyes and nose; and their large and thick -cloaks effectually secure the body; besides which they wear fur gloves, -muffs, and shoes. It is surprising to see how well the Canadian horses -support the cold; after standing for hours together in the open air at a -time when spirits will freeze, they set off as alertly as if it were -summer. The French Canadians make no scruple to leave their horses -standing at the door of a house, without any covering, in the coldest -weather, while they are themselves taking their pleasure. None of the -other domestic animals are as indifferent to the cold as the horses. -During winter all the domestic animals, not excepting the poultry, are -lodged together in one large stable, that they may keep each other warm; -but in order to avoid the expence of feeding many through the winter, as -soon as the frost sets in they generally kill cattle and poultry -sufficient to last them till the return of spring. The carcases are -buried in the ground, and covered with a heap of snow, and as they are -wanted they are dug up; vegetables are laid up in the same manner, and -they continue very good throughout the whole winter. The markets in the -towns are always supplied best at this season, and provisions are then -also the cheapest; for the farmers having nothing else to engage them, -and having a quantity of meat on hand, that is never injured from being -sent to market, flock to the towns in their carioles in great numbers, -and always well supplied. - -The winter generally continues till the latter end of April, and -sometimes even till May, when a thaw comes on very suddenly. The snow -soon disappears; but it is a long time before the immense bodies of ice -in the rivers are dissolved. The scene which presents itself on the St. -Lawrence at this season is most tremendous. The ice first begins to -crack from side to side, with a report as loud as that of a cannon. -Afterwards, as the waters become swollen by the melting of the snow, it -is broken into pieces, and hurried down the stream with prodigious -impetuosity; but its course is often interrupted by the islands and -shallow places in the river; one large piece is perhaps first stopped, -other pieces come drifting upon that, and at length prodigious heaps are -accumulated, in some places rising several yards above the level of the -water. Sometimes these mounds of ice are driven from the islands or -rocks, upon which they have accumulated, by the wind, and are floated -down to the sea in one entire body: if in going down they happen to -strike against any of the rocks along the shore, the crash is horrible: -at other times they remain in the same spot where they were first -formed, and continue to obstruct the navigation of the river for weeks -after every appearance of frost is banished on shore; so very widely -also do they frequently extend in particular parts of the river, and so -solid are they at the same time, that in crossing from shore to shore, -the people, instead of being at the trouble of going round them, make -directly for the ice, disembark upon it, drag their bateaux or canoes -across, and launch them again on the opposite side. As long as the ice -remains in the St. Lawrence, no ships attempt to pass up or down; for -one of these large bodies of ice is equally dangerous with a rock. - -[Sidenote: THAW.] - -The rapid progress of vegetation in Canada, as soon as the winter is -over, is most astonishing. Spring has scarcely appeared, when you find -it is summer. In a few days the fields are clothed with the richest -verdure, and the trees obtain their foliage. The various productions of -the garden come in after each other in quick succession, and the grain -sown in May affords a rich harvest by the latter end of July. This part -of the year, in which spring and summer are so happily blended together, -is delightful beyond description; nature then puts on her gayest attire; -at the same time the heat is never found oppressive; it is seldom that -the mercury in Fahrenheit’s thermometer then rises above 84°: in July -and August the weather becomes warmer, and a few days often intervene -when the heat is overcoming; during these months the mercury sometimes -rises to 96°. There is a great difference, however, in the weather at -this season in different years: during the whole of the time that I was -in the country, I never observed the thermometer higher than 88°; for -the greater part of the months of July and August it was not higher than -80°, and for many days together it did not rise beyond 65°, between -Quebec and Montreal. - -The fall of the year is a most agreeable season in Canada, as well as -the summer. - -It is observed, that there is in general a difference of about three -weeks in the length of the winter at Montreal and at Quebec, and of -course in the other seasons. When green peas, strawberries, &c. were -entirely gone at Montreal, we met with them in full season at Quebec. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - +LETTER + XXVII. - -_Inhabitants of Lower Canada.—Of the Tenures by which Lands are - held.—Not favourable to the Improvement of the Country.—Some - Observations thereon.—Advantages of settling in Canada and the United - States compared.—Why Emigrations to the latter Country are more - general.—Description of a journey to Stoneham Township near - Quebec—Description of the River St. Charles—Of Lake St. Charles—Of - Stoneham Township._ - - - Quebec. - -ABOUT five-sixths of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are of French -extraction, the bulk of whom are peasants, living upon the lands of the -seigniors. Amongst the English inhabitants devoted to agriculture, but -few, however, are to be found occupying land under seigniors, not -withstanding that several of the seigniories have fallen into the hands -of Englishmen; the great majority of them hold the lands which they -cultivate by virtue of certificates from the governor, and these people -for the most part reside in the western parts of the province, bordering -upon the upper parts of the river St. Lawrence. - -The seigniors, both French and English, live in a plain simple style; -for although the seigniories in general are extensive, but few of them -afford a very large income to the proprietors. - -The revenues of a seigniory arise from certain fines called lods and -vents, which are paid by the vassals on the alienation of property, as -when a farm, or any part of it, is divided by a vassal, during his -lifetime, amongst his sons, or when any other than the immediate issue -of a vassal succeeds to his estate, &c. &c. The revenues arise also from -certain fines paid on the granting of fresh lands to the vassals, and -from the profits of the mills of the seignior, to which the vassals are -bound to send all their corn to be ground. - -This last obligation is sometimes extremely irksome to the vassal, when, -for instance, on a large seigniory there is not more than one mill; for -although it should be ten miles distant from his habitation, and he -could get his corn ground on better terms close to his own door, yet he -cannot send it to any other mill than that belonging to the seignior, -under a heavy penalty. - -[Sidenote: SEIGNIORIES.] - -The extent of seigniorial rights in Canada, particularly in what relates -to the levying of the lods and vents, seems to be by no means clearly -ascertained, so that where the seignior happens to be a man of a -rapacious disposition, the vassal is sometimes compelled to pay fines, -which, in strict justice perhaps, ought not to be demanded. In the first -provincial assembly that was called, this business was brought forward, -and the equity and policy was strongly urged by some of the English -members that possessed considerable abilities, of having proper bounds -fixed to the power of the seigniors, and of having all the fines and -services due from their vassals accurately ascertained, and made -generally known: but the French members, a great number of whom were -themselves seigniors, being strongly attached to old habits, and -thinking that it was conducive to their interest that their authority -should still continue undefined, opposed the measure with great warmth; -and nothing was done. - -Nearly all those parts of Canada which were inhabited when the country -was under French government, as well as the unoccupied lands granted to -individuals during the same period, are comprized under different -seigniories, and these, with all the usages and customs thereto formerly -pertaining, were confirmed to the proprietaries by the Quebec bill, -which began to be in force in May 1775; these lands, therefore, are held -by unquestionable titles. All the waste lands, however, of the crown, -that have been allotted since the conquest, have been granted simply by -certificates of occupation, or licences, from the governor, giving -permission to persons who applied for these lands to settle upon them, -no patents, conveying a clear possession of them, have ever been made -out; it is merely by courtesy that they are held; and if a governor -thought proper to reclaim them on the part of the crown, he has only to -say the word, and the titles of the occupiers sink into air. Thus it is, -that although several persons have expended large sums of money in -procuring, and afterwards improving townships[34], none of them are yet -enabled to sell a single acre as an indemnification for these expences; -at least no title can be given with what is offered for sale, and it is -not therefore to be supposed, that purchasers of such property will -easily be found. It is true, indeed, that the different proprietaries of -these townships have been assured, on the part of government, that -patents shall be granted to every one of them, and they are fully -persuaded that these will be made out some time or other; but they have -in vain waited for them for three years, and they are anxiously waiting -for them still[35]. - -Footnote 34: - - Tracts of waste land, usually ten miles square. - -Footnote 35: - - I received a letter, dated early in the year 1796, from a gentleman in - Canada, who has taken up one of these townships, which contains the - following paragraph: “At present the matter remains in an unsettled - state, although every step has been taken on my part to accelerate the - completion of the business. Mr. D——’s patent, which was sent home as a - model, is not yet returned. I received a letter lately from Mr. - Secretary R——, in which he informs me, that Mr. G—— is again returned - to the surveyor’s office, and he assures me, that in conjunction with - him, he will do every thing in his power to expedite my obtaining a - patent. The governor, he says, means that the land business should go - forward.” - -[Sidenote: SPECULATIONS.] - -Different motives have been assigned for this conduct on the part of the -British government. In the first place it has been alledged, that the -titles are withheld, in order to prevent speculation and land-jobbing -from rising to the same height in Canada as they have done in the United -States. - -It is a notorious fact, that in the United States land-jobbing has led -to a series of the most nefarious practices, whereby numbers have -already suffered, and by which still greater numbers must suffer -hereafter. By the machinations of a few interested individuals, who have -contrived by various methods to get immense tracts[36] of waste land -into their possession, fictitious demands have been created in the -market for land, the price of it has consequently been enhanced much -beyond its intrinsic worth, and these persons have then taken the -opportunity of selling what they had on hand at an enormous profit. The -wealth that has been accumulated by particular persons in the United -States, in this manner, is prodigious; and numberless others, witnesses -to their prosperity, have been tempted to make purchases of land, in -hopes of realizing fortunes in a similar way, by selling out small -portions at an advanced price. Thus it is that the nominal value of -waste land has been raised so suddenly in the United States; for large -tracts, which ten years before were selling for a few pence per acre, -have sold in numberless instances, lately, for dollars per acre, an -augmentation in price which the increase of population alone would by no -means have occasioned. Estates, like articles of merchandize, have -passed, before they have ever been improved, through the hands of dozens -of people, who never perhaps were within five hundred miles of them, and -the consumer or farmer, in consequence of the profits laid on by these -people, to whom they have severally belonged, has had frequently to pay -a most exorbitant price for the little spot which he has purchased[37]. - -Footnote 36: - - There have been many instances in the United States of a single - individual’s holding upwards of three millions of acres at one time, - and some few individuals have been known to hold even twice that - quantity at once. - -Footnote 37: - - In the beginning of the year 1796, this traffic was at its highest - pitch, and at this time General Washington, so eminently distinguished - for his prudence and foresight, perceiving that land had risen beyond - its actual value, and persuaded that it could not rise higher for some - years to come, advertised for sale every acre of which he was - possessed, except the farms of Mount Vernon. The event shewed how - accurate his judgment was. In the close of the year, one of the great - land-jobbers, disappointed in his calculations, was obliged to - abscond; the land trade was shaken to its very foundation; - bankruptcies spread like wildfire from one great city to another, and - men that had begun to build palaces found themselves likely to have no - better habitation for a time than the common gaol. - -[Sidenote: LAND-JOBBING.] - -Speculation and land-jobbing carried to such a pitch cannot but be -deemed great evils in the community; and to prevent them from extending -into Canada appears to be an object well worthy the attention of -government; but it seems unnecessary to have recourse for that purpose -to the very exceptionable measure of withholding a good title to all -lands granted by the crown, a measure disabling the landholder from -taking the proper steps to improve his estate, which gives rise to -distrust and suspicion, and materially impedes the growing prosperity of -the country. - -It appears to me, that land-jobbing could never arrive at such a height -in Canada as to be productive of similar evils to those already sprung -up from it in the United States, or similar to those further ones with -which the country is threatened, if no more land were granted by the -crown, to any one individual, than a township of ten thousand acres; or -should it be thought that grants of such an extent even opened too wide -a field for speculation, certain restrictions might be laid upon the -grantee; he might be bound to improve his township by a clause in the -patent, invalidating the sale of more than a fourth or fifth of it -unless to actual settlers, until a certain number of people should be -resident thereon[38]. Such a clause would effectually prevent the evil; -for it is the granting of very extensive tracts of waste lands to -individuals, without binding them in any way to improve them, which -gives rise to speculation and land-jobbing. - -Footnote 38: - - The plan of binding every person that should take up a township to - improve it, by providing a certain number of settlers, has not wholly - escaped the notice of government; for in the licences of occupation, - by which each township is allotted, it is stipulated, that every - person shall provide forty settlers for his township; but as no given - time is mentioned for the procuring of these settlers, the stipulation - becomes nugatory. - -By others it is imagined, that the withholding of clear titles to the -lands is a measure adopted merely for the purpose of preventing a -diminution of the inhabitants from taking place by emigration. - -[Sidenote: EMIGRATION.] - -Not only townships have been granted by certificates of occupation, but -also numberless small portions of land, from one hundred acres upwards, -particularly in Upper Canada, to royalists and others, who have at -different periods emigrated from the United States. These people have -all of them improved their several allotments. By withholding any better -title, therefore, than that of a certificate, they are completely tied -down to their farms, unless, indeed, they think proper to abandon them, -together with the fruits of many years labour, without receiving any -compensation whatsoever for so doing. - -It is not probable, however, that these people, if they had a clear -title to their lands, would return back to the United States; the -royalists, who were driven out of the country by the ill treatment of -the other inhabitants, certainly would not; nor would the others, who -have voluntarily quitted the country, return, whilst self-interest, -which led them originally to come into Canada, operated in favour of -their remaining there. It was the prospect of getting land on -advantageous terms which induced them to emigrate; land is still a -cheaper article in Canada than in the United States; and as there is -much more waste land in the former, than in the latter country, in -proportion to the number of the inhabitants, it will probably continue -so for a length of time to come. In the United States, at present, it is -impossible to get land without paying for it; and in parts of the -country where the soil is rich, and where some settlements are already -made, a tract of land, sufficient for a moderate farm, is scarcely to be -procured under hundreds of dollars. In Canada, however, a man has only -to make application to government, and on his taking the oath of -allegiance, he immediately gets one hundred acres of excellent uncleared -land, in the neighbourhood of other settlements, gratis; and if able to -improve it directly, he can get even a larger quantity. But it is a fact -worthy of notice, which banishes every suspicion relative to a -diminution of the inhabitants taking place by emigrations into the -States, that great numbers of people from the States actually emigrate -into Canada annually, whilst none of the Canadians, who have it in their -power to dispose of their property, emigrate into the United States, -except, indeed, a very few of those who have resided in the towns. - -[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.] - -According to the opinion of others again, it is not for either of the -purposes already mentioned, that clear titles are withheld to the lands -granted by the crown, but for that of binding down to their good -behaviour the people of each province, more particularly the Americans -that have emigrated from the States lately, who are regarded by many -with an eye of suspicion, notwithstanding they have taken the oaths of -allegiance to the crown. It is very unfair, however, to imagine that -these people would be ready to revolt a second time from Great Britain, -if they were made still more independent than they are now, merely -because they did so on a former occasion, when their liberties and -rights as men and as subjects of the British empire were so shamefully -disregarded; on the contrary, were clear titles granted with the lands -bestowed by the crown on them, and the other subjects of the province, -instead of giving rise to disaffection, there is every reason to think -it would make them still more loyal, and more attached to the British -government, as no invidious distinction could then be drawn between the -condition of the landholders in the States and those in Canada. The -material rights and liberties of the people would then be full as -extensive in the one country as in the other; and as no positive -advantage could be gained by a revolt, it is not likely that Americans, -of all people in the world the most devoted to self-interest, would -expose their persons and properties in such an attempt. - -If, however, the Americans from the States are people that would abuse -such favours from the crown, why were they admitted into the province at -all? The government might easily have kept them out, by refusing to them -any grants of lands; but at any rate, were it thought expedient to admit -them, and were such measures necessary to keep them in due subjection, -it seems hard that the same measures should be adopted in regard to the -inhabitants of the province, who stood firm to the British government, -even at the time when the people in every other part of the continent -revolted. - -For whatever reason this system of not granting unexceptionable titles -with the land, which the crown voluntarily bestows on its faithful -subjects, has been adopted, one thing appears evident, namely, that it -has very considerably retarded the improvement of both the provinces; -and indeed, as long as it is continued, they must both remain very -backward countries, compared with any of the adjoining states. Were an -opposite system, however, pursued, and the lands granted merely with -such restrictions as were found absolutely necessary, in order to -prevent jobbing, the happy effects of a measure of that nature would -soon become visible; the face of the country would be quickly -meliorated, and it is probable that there would not be any part of North -America, where they would, after a short period, be able to boast that -improvement had taken place more rapidly. - -[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.] - -It is very certain, that were the lands granted in this manner, many -more people would annually emigrate into Canada from the United States -than at present; for there are numbers who come yearly into the country -to “explore it,” that return back solely because they cannot get lands -with an indisputable title; I have repeatedly met with these people -myself in Upper Canada, and have heard them express the utmost -disappointment at not being able to get lands on such terms even for -money; I have heard others in the States also speak to the same purport -after they had been in Canada; it is highly probable, moreover, that -many of the people, who leave Great Britain and Ireland for America, -would then be induced to settle in Canada instead of the United States, -and the British empire would not, in that case, lose, as it does now, -thousands of valuable citizens every year. - -What are the general inducements, may here be asked, to people to quit -Great Britain for the United States? They have been summed up by Mr. -Cooper[39], in his letters published in 1794, on the subject of -emigrating to America; and we cannot have recourse, _on the whole_, to -better authority. - -Footnote 39: - - Mr. Cooper, late of Manchester, who emigrated to America with all his - family, and whose authority has been very generally quoted by the - Americans who have since written on the subject of emigration. - -[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.] - -“In my mind,” he says, “the first and principal inducement to a person -to quit England for America is, _the total absence of anxiety respecting -the future success of a family_. There is little fault to find with the -government of America, that is, of the United States, either in -principle or practice. There are few taxes to pay, and those are of -acknowledged necessity, and moderate in amount. There are no animosities -about religion, and it is a subject about which few questions are asked; -there are few respecting political men or political measures; the -present irritation of men’s minds in Great Britain, and the discordant -state of society on political accounts, is not known there. The -government is the government of the people, and for the people. There -are no tythes nor game laws; and excise laws upon spirits only, and -similar to the British only in name. There are no great men of rank, nor -many of great riches; nor have the rich the power of oppressing the less -rich, for poverty is almost unknown; nor are the streets crowded with -beggars. You see no where the disgusting and melancholy contrast, so -common in Europe, of vice and filth, and rags and wretchedness, in the -immediate neighbourhood of the most wanton extravagance, and the most -useless and luxurious parade; nor are the common people so depraved as -in Great Britain. Quarrels are uncommon, and boxing matches unknown in -the streets. There are no military to keep the people in awe. Robberies -are very rare. All these are real advantages; but great as they are, -they do not weigh with me so much as the single consideration first -mentioned.” - -Any person that has travelled generally through the United States must -acknowledge, that Mr. Cooper has here spoken with great partiality; for -as to the morality and good order that prevails amongst the people, he -has applied to all of them what only holds true with respect to those -who live in the most improved parts of the country. - -He is extremely inaccurate also, in representing the people of the -States as free from all animosities about political measures; on the -contrary, there is no country on the face of the globe, perhaps, where -party spirit runs higher, where political subjects are more frequently -the topic of conversation amongst all classes, and where such subjects -are more frequently the cause of rancorous disputations and lasting -differences amongst the people. I have repeatedly been in towns where -one half of the inhabitants would scarcely deign to speak to the other -half, on account of the difference of their political opinions; and it -is scarcely possible, in any part of the country, to remain for a few -hours in a mixed company of men, without witnessing some acrimonious -dispute from the same cause. - -Let us, however, compare the inducements which he holds out to people in -England to leave that country for America, that is, for the United -States, with the inducements there would be to settle in Canada, under -the premised supposition, that the land was there granted in an -unexceptionable manner. - -From the land being plentiful in Canada, and consequently at a very low -price, but likely to increase in value, whilst in the States, on the -contrary, it has risen to an exorbitant value, beyond which it is not -likely to rise for some time to come, there can be no doubt but that a -man of moderate property could provide for his family with much more -ease in Canada than in the United States, as far as land were his -object. - -[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.] - -In Canada, also, there is a much greater opening for young men -acquainted with any business or profession that can be carried on in -America, than there is in the United States. The expence of settling in -Canada would be far less also than in any one of the States; for in the -former country the necessaries and conveniencies of life are remarkably -cheap, whilst, on the contrary, in the other they are far dearer than in -England; a man therefore would certainly have no greater anxiety about -the future success of a family in Canada than in the United States, and -the absence of this anxiety, according to Mr. Cooper, _is the great -inducement to settle in the States, which weighs with him more than all -other considerations put together_. - -The taxes of Lower Canada have already been enumerated; they are of -acknowledged necessity, and much lower in amount and number than those -paid in the States. - -There are no animosities in Canada about religion, and people of all -persuasions are on a perfect equality with each other, except, indeed, -it be the protestant dissenters, who may happen to live on lands that -were subject to tithes under the French government; they have to pay -tithes to the English episcopalian clergy; but there is not a dissenter -living on tithe lands, perhaps, in the whole province. The lands granted -since the conquest are not liable to tithes. The English episcopalian -clergy are provided for by the crown out of the waste lands; and all -dissenters have simply to pay their own clergy. - -There are no game laws in Canada, nor any excise laws whatsoever. - -As for the observation made by Mr. Cooper in respect to the military, it -is almost too futile to deserve notice. If a soldier, however, be an -object of terror, the timid man will not find himself at ease in the -United States any more than in England, as he will meet with soldiers in -New York, on Governor’s Island, at Mifflin Fort near Philadelphia, at -the forts on the North River, at Niagara, at Detroit, and at Oswego, &c. -on the lakes, and all through the western country, at the different -posts which were established by General Wayne. - -In every other respect, what Mr. Cooper has said of the United States -holds good with regard to Canada; nay more, it must certainly in -addition be allowed by every unprejudiced person that has been in both -countries, that morality and good order are much more conspicuous -amongst the Canadians of every description, than the people of the -States; drunkenness is undoubtedly much less common amongst them, as is -gambling, and also quarrels. - -[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.] - -But independent of these inducements to settle in Canada, there is still -another circumstance which ought to weigh greatly with every British -emigrant, according to the opinion even of Mr. Cooper himself. After -advising his friends “to go where land is cheap and fertile, and where -it is in a progress of improvement,” he recommends them “to go -somewhere, if possible, _in the neighbourhood of a few English_, whose -society, even in America, is interesting to an English settler, who -cannot entirely relinquish the _memoria temporis acti_;” that is, as he -particularly mentions in another passage, “he will find their manners -and conversation far more agreeable than those of the Americans,” and -from being chiefly in their company, he will not be so often tormented -with the painful reflection, that he has not only left, but absolutely -renounced his native country, and the men whom he once held dear above -all others, and united himself, in their stead, with people whose vain -boasts and ignorant assertions, however harsh and grating they may sound -to his ears, he must listen to without murmuring. - -Now in Canada, particularly in Lower Canada, in the neighbourhood of -Quebec and Montreal, an English settler would find himself surrounded by -his countrymen; and although his moderate circumstances should have -induced him to leave England, yet he would not be troubled with the -disagreeable reflection that he had totally renounced his native land, -and sworn allegiance to a foreign power; he would be able to consider -with heartfelt satisfaction, that he was living under the protection of -the country wherein he had drawn his first breath; that he was -contributing to her prosperity, and the welfare of many of his -countrymen, while he was ameliorating his own fortune. - -From a due consideration of every one of the before mentioned -circumstances, it appears evident to me, that there is no part of -America so suitable to an English or Irish settler as the vicinity of -Montreal or Quebec in Canada, and within twenty miles of each of these -places there is ample room for thousands of additional inhabitants. - -I must not omit here to give some account of a new settlement in the -neighbourhood of Quebec, which I and my fellow travellers visited in -company with some neighbouring gentlemen, as it may in some degree tend -to confirm the truth of what I have said respecting the impolicy of -withholding indisputable titles to the lands lately granted by the -crown, and as it may serve at the same time to shew how many eligible -spots for new settlements are to be found in the neighbourhood of this -city. - -We set off from Quebec in calashes, and following, with a little -deviation only, the course of the River St. Charles, arrived on the -margin of the lake of the same name, about twelve miles distant from -Quebec. - -[Sidenote: RIVER AND LAKE ST. CHARLES.] - -The River St. Charles flows from the lake into the bason, near Quebec; -at its mouth it is about thirty yards wide, but not navigable for boats, -except for a few miles up, owing to the numerous rocks and falls. In the -spring of the year, when it is much swollen by floods, rafts have been -conducted down the whole way from the lake, but this has not been -accomplished without great difficulty, some danger, and a considerable -loss of time in passing the different portages. The distance from the -lake to Quebec being so short, land carriage must always be preferred to -a water conveyance along this river, except it be for timber. - -The course of the St. Charles is very irregular; in some places it -appears almost stagnant, whilst in others it shoots with wonderful -impetuosity over deep beds of rocks. The views upon it are very -romantic, particularly in the neighbourhood of Lorette, a village of the -Huron Indians, where the river, after falling in a beautiful cascade -over a ledge of rocks, winds through a deep dell, shaded on each side -with tall trees. - -The face of the country between Quebec and the lake is extremely -pleasing, and in the neighbourhood of the city, where the settlements -are numerous, well cultivated; but as you retire from it the settlements -become fewer and fewer, and the country of course appears wilder. From -the top of a hill, about half a mile from the lake, which commands a -fine view of that and the adjacent country, not more than five or six -houses are to be seen, and beyond these there is no settlement beside -that on Stoneham township, the one under immediate notice. - -On arriving at the lake, we found two canoes in waiting for us, and -embarked on board. - -[Sidenote: STONEHAM TOWNSHIP.] - -Lake St. Charles is about four miles and a half in length, and its -breadth on an average about three quarters of a mile; It consists of two -bodies of water nearly of the same size; they communicate together by a -narrow pass, through which a smart current sets towards Quebec. The -scenery along the lower part of the lake is uninteresting, but along the -upper part of it the views are highly picturesque, particularly upon a -first entrance through the pass. The lake is here interspersed with -large rocks; and close to the water on one side, as far as the eye can -reach, rocks and trees appear blended together in the most beautiful -manner. The shores are bold, and richly ornamented with hanging woods; -and the head of the lake being concealed from the view by several little -promontories, you are led to imagine that the body of water is far more -extensive than in reality. Towards the upper end the view is terminated -by a range of blue hills, which appear at a distance, peeping over the -tops of the tall trees. When a few settlements come to be made here, -open to the lake, for the land bordering upon it is quite in its natural -state, this must indeed be a heavenly little spot. - -The depth of the water in the lake is about eight feet, in some places -more, in others less. The water is clear, and as several small streams -fall into it to supply what runs off by the River St. Charles, it is -kept constantly in a state of circulation; but it is not well tasted, -owing as is conceived to the bottom being in some parts overgrown with -weeds. Prodigious numbers of bull frogs, however, are found about the -shores, which shews that springs of good water abound near it, for these -creatures are never met with but where the water is of a good quality. - -At the upper part of the lake we landed, and having proceeded for about -half a mile over some low ground bare of trees, from being annually -flooded on the dissolution of the snow, we struck into the woods. Here a -road newly cut soon attracted our attention, and following the course of -it for a mile or two, we at last espied, through a sudden opening -between the trees, the charming little settlement. - -The dwelling house, a neat boarded little mansion painted white, -together with the offices, were situated on a small eminence; to the -right, at the bottom of the slope, stood the barn, the largest in all -Canada, with a farm yard exactly in the English style; behind the barn -was laid out a neat garden, at the bottom of which, over a bed of -gravel, ran a purling stream of the purest water, deep enough, except in -a very dry season, to float a large canoe. A small lawn laid down in -grass appeared in front of the house, ornamented with clumps of pines, -and in its neighbourhood were about sixty acres of cleared land. The -common method of clearing land in America is to grub up all the -brushwood and small trees merely, and to cut down the large trees about -two feet above the ground: the remaining slumps rot in from six to ten -years, according to the quality of the timber; in the mean time the -farmer ploughs between them the best way he can, and where they are very -numerous he is sometimes obliged to use even the spade or the hoe to -turn up the soil. The lands, however, at this settlement had been -cleared in a different manner, for the trees and roots had all been -grubbed up at once. This mode of proceeding is extremely expensive, so -that few of those destined to make new settlements could afford to adopt -it; and, moreover, it has not been accurately proved that it is the most -profitable one; but the appearance of lands so cleared is greatly -superior to those cleared in the common method. - -[Sidenote: NEAT FARM.] - -In another respect also the lands at this settlement had been cleared in -a superior manner to what is commonly to be met with in America; for -large clumps of trees were left adjoining to the house, and each field -was encircled with wood, whereby the crops were secured from the bad -effects of storms. The appearance of cultivated fields thus situated, as -it were, in the midst of a forest, was inconceivably beautiful. - -The economy of this little farm equalled its beauty, The fields, neatly -fenced in and furnished with handsome gates, were cultivated according -to the Norfolk system of husbandry, and had been brought to yield the -most plentiful crops of every different sort of grain; the farm yard was -filled with as fine cattle as could be seen in any country; and the -dairy afforded excellent butter, and abundance of good cheese. - -Besides the dwelling house before mentioned, there were several log -houses on different parts of this farm, inhabited by the people who were -engaged in clearing the land. All these appeared delighted with the -situation; nor were such of them as had come a short time before from -England at all displeased with the climate; they informed me, that they -had enjoyed perfect health from the moment of their landing, and found -no inconvenience from the intense cold of the winter season, which -appears such an insuperable objection to many against settling in -Canada. - -[Sidenote: REFLECTIONS.] - -This settlement, together with the township it is situated upon, are the -property of a clergyman formerly resident at Quebec. The township is ten -miles square, commencing where the most remote of the old seigniories -end, that is, within eighteen miles of the city of Quebec; but though -within this short distance of a large city, it was almost totally -unknown until about five or six years ago, when the present proprietor, -with a party of Indians and a few friends, set out himself to examine -the quality of the lands. They proved to be rich; the timber was -luxuriant; the face of the country agreeably diversified with hill and -dale, interspersed with beautiful lakes, and interspersed by rivers and -mill streams in every direction. Situated also within six miles of old -settlements, through which there were established roads, being -convenient to a market at the capital of Canada, and within the reach of -society at least as agreeable, if not more so, than is to be found in -all America, nothing seemed wanting to render it an eligible spot for a -new settlement; accordingly the proprietor made application to -government; the land was surveyed, the township marked out, and it was -allotted to him merely, however, by a certificate of occupation. - -Several other gentlemen, charmed with the excellent quality and -beautiful disposition of the lands in this part of the country, have -taken up adjoining townships; but at none of them have any settlements -been made, nor is it probable that any will be, until the proprietaries -get better titles: indeed, it has excited the surprise of a numerous set -of people in the province, to see even the little settlement I have -spoken of established on land held under such a tenure. - -[Sidenote: REFLECTIONS.] - -That unexceptionable titles may be speedily made out to these lands is -sincerely to be hoped; for may we not, whenever that measure shall take -place, expect to see these beautiful provinces, that have so long -remained almost unknown, rising into general notice? May we not then -expect to behold them increasing rapidly in population, and making hasty -strides towards the attainment of that degree of prosperity and -consequence, which their soil, climate, and many other natural -advantages have so eminently qualified them for enjoying? And surely the -empire at large would be greatly benefitted by such a change in the -state of Canada; for as the country increased in population, it would -increase in riches, and there would then be a proportionably greater -demand for English manufactures; a still greater trade would also be -carried on then between Canada and the West Indies than at present, to -the great advantage of both countries[40]; a circumstance that would -give employment to a greater number of British ships: as Canada also -increased in wealth, it would be enabled to defray the expences of its -own government, which at present falls so heavily upon the people of -Great Britain: neither is there reason to imagine that Canada, if -allowed to attain such a state of prosperity, would be ready to disunite -herself from Great Britain, supposing that Great Britain should remain -as powerful as at present, and that Canada continued to be governed with -mildness and wisdom; for she need but turn towards the United States to -be convinced that the great mass of her people were in the possession of -as much happiness and liberty as those of the neighbouring country; and -that whatever she might lose by exposing herself to the horrors of a -sanguinary war, she could gain no essential or immediate advantages -whatsoever, by asserting her own independence. - -Footnote 40: - - All those articles of American produce in demand in the West Indies - may be had on much better terms in Canada than in the United States; - and if the Canadian merchants had sufficient capitals to enable them - to trade thither largely, there can hardly be a doubt but that the - people of the British West Indian isles would draw their supplies from - Canada rather than from any other part of America. The few cargoes at - present sent from Quebec always command a preference in the West - Indian markets over those sent from any part of the United States. - - - - - END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ● Transcriber’s Notes: - ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. - ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected. - ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only - when a predominant form was found in this book. - ○ Text that: - was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_); - was in bold by is enclosed by “equal” signs (=bold=) - had extra character spacing by “plus” signs (+stretched+). - ○ The use of a caret (^) before a letter, or letters, shows that the - following letter or letters was intended to be a superscript, as - in S^t Bartholomew or 10^{th} Century. - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS THROUGH THE STATES OF NORTH -AMERICA, AND THE PROVINCES OF UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, DURING THE YEARS -1795, 1796, AND 1797 [VOL. 1 OF 2] *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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