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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Letters of "Norah" on her Tour Through
+Ireland, by Margaret Dixon McDougall
+
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+Title: The Letters of "Norah" on her Tour Through Ireland
+
+Author: Margaret Dixon McDougall
+
+Release Date: September, 2004 [EBook #6599]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on December 30, 2002]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NORAH ON HER TOUR THROUGH IRELAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tonya Allen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+This file was produced from images generously made available by the
+Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LETTERS OF "NORAH" ON HER TOUR THROUGH IRELAND,
+
+BEING A SERIES OF LETTERS TO THE MONTREAL "WITNESS"
+
+AS SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT TO IRELAND
+
+
+
+
+COMPLETE LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS TO THE PUBLICATION
+OF MRS. McDOUGAL'S LETTERS FROM IRELAND.
+
+
+Monsignore Farrelly. Belleville, Ont. $ 5.00
+Wm. Wilson, Montreal                   10.00
+Edward Murphy, Montreal                 5.00
+Joseph Cloran,   "                      5.00
+Timothy Fogarty, "                      5.00
+Robert McCready, "                      5.00
+James Stewart,   "                      5.00
+T.J. Potter,     "                      5.00
+John Mahan, Paris (France)              5.00
+Henry Hogan, Montreal                   5.00
+Bernard Tansey,  "                      2.00
+B. Connaughton,  "                      2.00
+F.G. Gormely,    "                      2.00
+J.C. Fleming, Toronto                   2.00
+C.D. Hanson, Montreal                   2.00
+D. McEntyre Jr., "                      2.00
+Ald. D. Tansey,  "                      4.00
+Wm. Farrell,     "                      2.00
+M. Avahill,      "                      2.00
+E.P. Ronavae     "                      2.00
+Michael Sullivan,"                      1.00
+James Guest      "                      2.00
+M.P. Ryan        "                      5.00
+Joseph Dunn, Cote St. Paul              4.00
+Owen McGarvey, Montreal                 5.00
+Daniel Murphy, Carillon, P.Q.           5.00
+John Kelly        "       "             5.00
+C.J. Doherty, Montreal                  5.00
+James McCready   "                      5.00
+Andrew Colquhoun, Winnepeg              5.00
+P. Cuddy, Montreal                      5.00
+W.S. Walker  "                          5.00
+M.J. Quinn   "                          5.00
+Rev. M.J. Stanton, Priest, Westport,
+    Ont.                                5.00
+E. Stanton, Ottawa                      5.00
+J. Fogarty, Montreal                    5.00
+P. McLaughlin, Montreal                 3.00
+P.J. Ronayne,      "                    5.00
+William Redmond,   "                    2.00
+J.J. Milloy,       "                    2.00
+C. Egan,           "                    2.00
+John Cox,          "                    2.00
+P.J. Durack,       "                    2.00
+John McElroy,      "                    2.00
+Michael Fern,      "                    2.00
+J.I. Hayes,        "                    2.00
+James Maguire,     "                    2.00
+J.J. Curran, M.P., "                    2.00
+Mrs. McCrank,      "                    2.00
+Dr. W.H. Hingston, "                    5.00
+John B. Murphy,    "                    5.00
+Tim. Kenna,        "                    2.00
+Matthew Hicks,     "                    5.00
+Patrick Wright,    "                    5.00
+Wm. S. Harper,     "                    2.00
+Richard Drake,     "                    1.00
+James O'Brien,     "                    5.00
+H. Hodgson,        "                    2.00
+P.A. Egleson, Ottawa, Ont.              5.00
+John Keane,       "                     2.00
+B.J. Coghlin, Montreal                  5.00
+Henry Stafford,    "                    2.00
+Mrs. P. McMahon    "                    2.00
+P. Cadigan, Pembroke, Ont.              5.00
+H. Heaton, Nebraska, U.S.                .50
+Thomas Simpson, Montreal                1.00
+Alexander Seath,   "                    2.00
+M.C. Mullarky,     "                    5.00
+John Fahey,        "                    5.00
+J.J. Arnton,       "                    5.00
+Richard McShane,   "                    2.00
+B. Emerson,        "                    2.00
+J.D. Purcell,      "                    2.00
+W. O'Brien         "                    5.00
+
+(Signed)
+
+W. Wilson
+
+_Treasurer "Norah's Letters" Fund._
+
+
+
+
+A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND
+
+
+
+
+I.
+
+OFF--EXPERIENCES IN A PULLMAN CAR--HOARDING THE "ONTARIO"--THE CAPTAIN--
+THE SEA AND SEA-SICKNESS--IMAGININGS IN THE STORM--LANDING AT
+BIRKENHEAD.
+
+
+On January 27th I bade good-bye to my friends and set my face resolutely
+towards the land whither I had desired to return. Knowing that sickness
+and unrest were before me, I formed an almost cast-iron resolution, as
+Samantha would say, to have one good night's rest on that Pulman car
+before setting out on the raging seas. Alas! a person would persist in
+floating about, coming occasionally to fumble in my belongings in the
+upper berth. Prepared to get nervous. Before it came to that, I sat up
+and enquired if the individual had lost anything, when he disappeared.
+Lay down and passed another resolution. Some who were sitting up began
+to smoke, and the fumes of tobacco floated in behind the curtains, clung
+there and filled all the space and murdered sleep. Watched the heavy
+dark shelf above, stared at the cool white snow outside, wished that all
+smokers were exiled to Virginia or Cuba, or that they were compelled to
+breathe up their own smoke, until the morning broke cold and foggy.
+
+Emerged from behind the curtains, and blessed the man who invented cold
+water. Too much disturbed by the last night's dose of second-hand smoke
+for breakfast at Island Pond. The moist-looking colored gentleman who
+was porter, turned back to Montreal before we reached Portland. I
+strongly suspect that a friend had privately presented him with a fee to
+make him attentive to one of the passengers, for he came twice with the
+most minute directions for finding the Dominion Line office, at
+Portland. Still his conscience was unsatisfied, for finally he came with
+the offer of a tumbler full of something he called pure apple juice.
+There are some proud Caucasians who would not have found it so difficult
+to square a small matter like that with their consciences.
+
+It was pleasant to look at the comfortable homes on the line as we
+passed along. Not one squalid looking homestead did we pass; every one
+such as a man might be proud to own. All honor to the State of Maine.
+
+The train was three hours late--it was afternoon when we arrived in
+Portland. Following the directions of my colored friend, I went up an
+extremely dirty stair into a very dirty office, found an innocent young
+man smoking a cigar. He did not know anything, you know, so sat grimly
+down to wait for the arrival of some one who did. Such a one soon
+appeared and took a comprehensive glance of the passenger as he took off
+his overshoes.
+
+"Passenger for the 'Ontario,'" explained the innocent young man.
+
+"Take the passenger over to the ship," said the energetic one,
+decidedly. "We will send luggage after you. How much have you?"
+
+Explained, handed him the checks, and meekly followed my innocent guide
+down the dirty stair, across a wide street, up some dirty-looking steps
+on to the wharf where the 'Ontario' lay, taking in her cargo. Large and
+strong-looking, dingy white was she, lying far below the wharf.
+
+My guide enquired for the captain, who appeared suddenly from somewhere--
+a tall man with a resolute face and keen eye, gray as to hair and
+whiskers, every inch a captain. I knew that his face--once a handsome
+face, I am sure--had got that look of determination carved into it by
+doing his duty by his ship and facing many a storm on God Almighty's
+sea. I trusted him at once.
+
+Did not sail through the night as I expected, but were still in Portland
+when morning came. We had fish for breakfast; found mine frozen beneath
+the crisp brown outside. After breakfast went up on deck. The sky was
+blue and bright, the air piercing cold. The town of Portland looked
+clean and beautiful in the fair sunlight. It is a place that goes
+climbing up hill. The floating ice and the liquid green water ruffled
+into white on the crest of the swells, are at play together. The ship
+moves out slowly, almost imperceptibly. Portland fades from a house-
+crowned hillside into a white line, darkness comes down. We are out at
+sea.
+
+The glass has gone down; the storm has come up; the sea tyrant has got
+hold of the solitary passenger and dandles her very roughly, singing
+"The Wreck of the 'Hesperus'" in a loud bass to some grand deep tune,
+alternating with the one hundred and third Psalm in Gaelic. The
+passenger holds on for dear life and wonders why the winds sing those
+words over and over again.
+
+Sabbath passes, day melts into night, night fades into day, the storm
+tosses the ship and sea-sickness tosses the passenger. The captain
+enquires, "Is that passenger no better yet?" Comes to see in his
+doctoral capacity, looks like a man not to be trifled with, feels the
+pulse, orders a mustard blister, brandy and ammonia, and scolds the
+patient for starving, like a wise captain and kind man as he is. All the
+ship stores are ransacked for something to tempt an appetite that is
+above temptation; but the captain is absolute, and we can testify that
+eating from a sense of duty is hard work. It was delightful to get rid
+of an occasional apple on the sly to one of the ship's boys and be
+rewarded with a surprised grin of delight.
+
+It is grand to lie on cushions on the companion-way and watch long
+rollers as they heave up and look in at the door-way. They rise rank
+upon rank, looking over one another's shoulders, hustling one another in
+their boisterous play, like overgrown schoolboys, who will have fun at
+whoever's expense. Sometimes one is pushed right in by his fellows, and
+falls down the companion-way in a little cataract, and then the door is
+shut and they batter at it in vain. Then there is a great mopping up of
+a small Atlantic.
+
+The storm roars without, and within the passenger lies day after day
+studying the poetry of motion. There is one motion that goes to the tune
+of "Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep," but this rocking is so violent
+that as one dashes from side to side, holding on to the bars above and
+the edge of the berth, one is led to pity a wakeful baby rocked wickedly
+by the big brother impatient to go to play. The tune changes, and it is
+"Ploughing the Raging Main," and the nose of the plough goes down too
+deep; then one is fastened to the walking beam of an engine and sways up
+and down with it. A gigantic churn is being churned by an ogre just
+under our head, and the awful dasher plunges and creaks. Above all the
+winds howl, and the waves roll, and sometimes slap the ship till she
+shivers and leaps, and then the "Wreck of the Hesperus" recommences.
+Things get gloomy, the variations of storm grow monotonous, nothing
+delights us, no wish arises for beef tea, nothing makes gruel palatable.
+Neither sun nor stars have been visible for some days; the only sunshine
+we see is the passing smile of the ship's boys, who are almost
+constantly employed baling out the Atlantic.
+
+It was the ninth night of storm. They say every ninth wave is larger
+than the rest; the ninth night the wind roared louder than ever, the
+Almighty's great guns going off. The ship staggered and reeled,
+struggling gallantly, answering nobly to the human will that held her to
+her duty, but shivering and leaping after every mighty slap of the mad
+waves. I got one glimpse at the waves through a cautiously opened door.
+I never thought they could climb upon one another's shoulders and reach
+up to heaven, a dark green wall of water ready to fall and overwhelm us,
+until I looked and saw the mountains of water all around.
+
+Land in sight on the 8th of February, the Fasnet rock, then the Irish
+coast; the great rollers drew back into the bosom of the Atlantic: the
+winged pilot boats appeared; the pilot climbed up the side out of the
+sea; we steamed over the harbor bar and stopped at Birkenhead on the
+Cheshire side to land our fellow-passengers the sheep and oxen.
+
+I might have gone up to Liverpool but was advised to remain another
+night on board and go direct to the Belfast packet from the ship. I
+considered this advice, found it good and took it.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+FROM LIVERPOOL TO BELFAST--IRELAND'S CONDITION DISCUSSED--EVICTIONS--A
+SUNDAY IN BELFAST.
+
+
+From Liverpool to Belfast, including a cup of tea, cost in all four
+dollars and fifty cents. It seems ridiculous to a stranger that the cars
+and cabs always stop at a little distance from the steamers, so as to
+employ a porter to lift a trunk for a few yards at each end of the short
+journey by cab.
+
+The kind steward of the "Ontario" came over to the packet to look after
+his passenger; had promised to see that passenger safely conveyed from
+one steamer to the other, but, detained at home by sickness in the
+family, came back to the ship a few minutes too late, and then came over
+to explain and say good-bye. There could not possibly be a more
+courteous set of men than the captain and officers of the steamship
+"Ontario."
+
+On the Belfast packet two ladies, one a very young bride on her way from
+her home in South Wales to her new home in Belfast, were talking of the
+danger of going to Ireland or living in it at the present disturbed
+time. A gentleman in a grey ulster and blue Tam o'Shanter of portentous
+dimensions broke into the conversation by assuring the handsome young
+bride that she would be as safe in green Erin as in the arms of her
+mother. Looking at the young lady it was easy to see that this speech
+was involuntary Irish blarney, a compliment to her handsome face. "You
+will meet the greatest kindness here, you will have the heartiest
+welcome on the face of the earth," he continued.
+
+"But there is a great deal of disturbance, is there not?" asked her
+companion.
+
+"Oh, the newspapers exaggerate dreadfully--shamefully, to get up a
+sensation in the interest of their own flimsy sheets. There is some
+disturbance, but nothing like what people are made believe by the
+newspaper reports."
+
+Old lady--"Why are Irish people so turbulent?"
+
+Tam O'Shanter--"My dear lady, Ireland contains the best people and the
+worst in the world, the kindest and the cruelest. They are so emotional,
+so impulsive, so impressible that their warm hearts are easily swayed by
+demagogues who are making capital out of influencing them."
+
+Old lady--"Making money by it, do you mean?"
+
+Tam O'Shanter, with a decided set of his bonnet--"Making money of it!
+Yes, by all means. They have got up the whole thing to make money. But
+here in Belfast, where you are going," with a bow to the bride, "all is
+tranquil, all is prosperous. In fact all over the north there is the
+same tranquillity, the same prosperity."
+
+Here, a new voice, that of an enthusiastic supporter of the Land League,
+joined in the conversation, and the controversy becoming personal the
+ladies disappeared into the ladies' cabin. There was an echo of drunken
+argument that was likely a continuation of the land question until the
+wind increased to a gale. The little boat tossed like a cork on the
+waves; there was such a rattle of glass, such a rolling and bumping of
+loose articles, such echoes of sickness, above all, the shock of waves
+and the shriek of winds, and the land question was for the time being
+swallowed up by the storm.
+
+Belfast, with its mud and mist, was a welcome sight. The dirty-faced
+porters who lined the quay and beckoned to us, and pointed to our
+luggage silently, seemed to be a deputation of welcome to _terra
+firma_. At a little distance from the line of porters the jaunting
+cars were stationed to convey passengers to the hotel. It did look
+ridiculous to see full-grown people take the long way round in this
+fashion.
+
+At noon Saturday, the 19th of February, I had the blissful feeling of
+rest connected with sitting in an easy chair before a coal fire, trying
+to wake up to the blissful fact of being off the sea and in Ireland.
+
+On Sunday it was raining a steady and persistent rain; went through it
+to the Duncairn Presbyterian Church because it was near, and because I
+was told that the minister was one skilled to preach the gospel to the
+poor. Found myself half an hour too early, so watched the congregation
+assemble. The Scottish face everywhere, an utter absence of anything
+like even a modified copy of a Milesian face. Presbyterianism in Ulster
+must have kept itself severely aloof from the natives; there could have
+been no proselytizing or there would have been a mixture of faces
+typical of the absorption of one creed in another.
+
+Judging from the sentiments I have heard expressed by the sturdy
+descendants of King Jamie's settlers, the sympathy that must precede any
+reasonably hopeful effort to win over the native population to an alien
+faith has never existed here. There is a great social gulf fixed between
+the two peoples, with prejudice guarding both sides. The history, the
+traditions of either side is guarded and nourished in secret by one,
+openly and triumphantly by the other, with a freshness of strength that
+is amazing to one who has been out of this atmosphere long enough to
+look kindly on and claim kindred with both sides. Still there is a
+perceptible difference between these Hiberno-Scotch and their cousins of
+Scotland. Their faces have lost some of the concentrated look of a
+really Scottish congregation. They are not so thoroughly "locked up;"
+the _cead mille failte_ has been working into their blood
+imperceptibly. The look of curiosity is kindly, and seems ready to melt
+into hearty welcome on short notice.
+
+It is not the minister of the Duncairn Church who preaches, but a
+returned missionary, who tells us by what logical hair-splitting in the
+regions of Irish metaphysics he confounds Hindoo enquirers after truth,
+and argues them into the Christian religion. Pity the poor Hindoos upon
+whom this man inflicts himself. In the afternoon I strayed into a small
+Sabbath-School where the Bible never was opened; heard a stirring Gospel
+sermon at night, and joined in a prayer-meeting and felt better.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+BELFAST--TEMPERANCE--"THE EVE OF A GREAT REBELLION"--THE POOR HOUSE--
+THE POLICE--COUNTY DOWN--MAKING ENDS MEET--WAITING FOR SOMETHING TO
+TURN UP.
+
+
+Belfast seems a busy town, bustle on her streets, merchandise on her
+quays. Did not meet one man on the streets with the hopeless look on his
+face of the poor fellow who carried my trunk in Liverpool. There must be
+distress however, for the mills are not running full time, and there are
+entertainments got up for the benefit of the deserving poor. I saw no
+signs of intoxication on the streets, yet the number of whiskey shops is
+appalling. Had a conversation with a prominent member of the Temperance
+League, who informed me that temperance was gaining ground in Belfast.
+"Half of the ministers are with us now; they used to, almost entirely,
+stand aloof." But where are the rest?
+
+The land question is the absorbing topic. Every one seems to admit that
+there is room for vast improvement in the land laws, that there has been
+glaring injustice in the past. They acknowledge that rents are too high
+to be paid, and leave anything behind to support the farmer's family in
+any semblance of comfort. There is a very strong feeling against Mr.
+Parnell among the Protestants of the north. In fact they talk of him
+exactly as they did of Daniel O'Connell when in the height of his power.
+Many whisper to me that we are on the eve of a great rebellion. One
+strong-minded lady who informed me that she had come of a Huguenot stock
+talked of the Land Leaguers as if they were responsible for the
+revocation of the Edict of Nantes: but she acknowledged that the land
+laws were very unjust and needed reform.
+
+Visited the Poor House, a very noble building in well-kept grounds. Went
+on purpose to see a sick person and did not go all over it. It was not
+the right day, or something. It was very distressing to see the number
+of able-bodied looking young men and rosy-cheeked women about the
+grounds who begged for a halfpenny, and so many loungers in hall and
+corridor--perhaps they were only visitors. If they were inmates there
+was plenty of cleaning to be done--the smell in some parts was dreadful.
+In the hospital part the floors were very clean, and the head nurse, a
+bright, cheery woman, seemed like sunshine among her patients. She
+showed us all her curiosities, the little baby born into an overcrowded
+world on the street, the little one, beautiful as an angel, found on the
+street in a basket. It was very touching to see the beggar mothers
+sparing from their own babies to nourish the little deserted waif. A
+poor house is a helpless, hopeless mass of human misery.
+
+One thing that impresses a stranger here is the number of policemen;
+they are literally swarming everywhere. Very dandified as to dress and
+bearing, very vigilant and watchful about the eyes, with a double
+portion of importance pervading them all over as men on whom the peace
+and safety of the country depend. These very dignified conservators of
+the peace are most obliging. Ask them any question of locality, or for
+direction anywhere, and their faces open out into human kindness and
+interest at once.
+
+Went out into County Down by rail about twenty miles. No words can do
+justice to the beauty of the country, the cleanness of the roads, the
+trimness of the hedges, and the garden-like appearance of the fields.
+The stations, as we passed along, looked so trim and neat. The houses of
+small farmers, or laborers I suppose they might be, were not very neat.
+Many of them stood out in great contrast as if here was the border over
+which any attempt at ornament should not pass.
+
+On the train bound for Dublin was a little old woman travelling third
+class like myself, who scraped an acquaintance at once in order to tell
+me of the disturbed state of the country. She emphasized everything with
+a wave of her poor worn gloves and a decided nod of her bonnet.
+
+"They are idle you know, they are lazy, they are improvident. They are
+not content in the station in which it has pleased God to place them. I
+know all about these people. They are turbulent, they are rebellious;
+they want to get their good, kind landlords out of the country, and to
+seize on their property. It is horrid you know, horrid!" and the little
+old lady waved her gloves in the air. "If they had a proper amount of
+religion they would be content to labor in their own station. I am
+content with mine, why not they with theirs? You understand that,"
+appealing to me.
+
+"Have you a small farm?" I enquired.
+
+"Indeed I have not," said the little old lady with the greatest disgust,
+"I live on my money."
+
+It was quite evident I had offended her, for she froze into silence. As
+I left the train at Tandragee she laid her faded glove on my arm and
+whispered, "It is their duty to be content in their own station, is it
+not?"
+
+"If they cannot do any better," I whispered back.
+
+"They cannot," said the little old lady sinking back on her seat
+triumphantly.
+
+It is rather unhandy, that the names of the stations are called out by a
+person on the platform outside the cars, instead of by a conductor
+inside.
+
+The manufacturing town of Gilford is a pretty, clean, neat, little place
+clustered round the mills and the big house, like the old feudal
+retainers round the castle. Here, as in Belfast, a certain amount of
+distress must exist, for the mills are not running full time.
+
+The wages of a common operative here is twelve shillings (or three
+dollars) per week. If they have a family grown up until they are able to
+work at the mills, of course it adds materially to the income. Girls are
+more precious than boys, I have heard, as being more docile and easier
+kept in clothing. They can earn about half wages, or six shillings (one
+dollar and a half) per week. Rents are about two shillings (or half a
+dollar) per week. It takes one and sixpence for fuel. A young family
+would keep the parents busy to make ends meet in the best of times. In
+case of the mill running short time I should think they would
+persistently refuse to meet. No signs of distress, not the least were
+apparent anywhere. The mill hands trooping past looked clean, rosy and
+cheerful, and were decently clad. The grounds around the factory were
+beautiful and very nicely kept, and beautiful also were the grounds
+about the great house. I felt sorry that there were no little garden
+plots about the tenement houses occupied by the operatives; so when hard
+times come they will have no potatoes or vegetables of their own to help
+them to tide over the times of scant wages. How I do wish that the
+large-hearted and generous proprietors of these works could take this
+matter into consideration.
+
+People waiting at the station talked among themselves of hard times, of
+farms that were run down, that would not yield the rent, not to speak of
+leaving anything for the tenants to live on. There was no complaint made
+of the landlords; the land was blamed for not producing enough. Of
+course, these people ought to know, but the fields everywhere looked
+like garden ground. The only symptoms of running down that I could see
+were in some of the houses, two-roomed, with leaky-looking roofs and a
+general air of neglect. I must own, however, that houses of this
+description were by far the fewest in number. At one station where we
+stopped, one respectable-looking man asked of another, "Have you got
+anything to do yet, Robert?" "Still waiting for something to turn up,"
+was the answer. This man was not at all of the Micawber type, but a
+well-brushed, decent-looking person with a keen peremptory face,
+evidently of Scottish descent. A group of such men came on the train,
+whose only talk was of emigrating if they only had the means.
+
+I have heard a great deal of talk of emigration among the people with
+whom I have travelled since I landed, but have not heard one mention of
+Canada as a desirable place to emigrate to. The Western States, the
+prairie lands, seem to be the promised land to everyone. One of these
+would-be emigrants took a flute out of his pocket and played the Exile
+of Erin. The talk of emigration stilled and a great silence fell on them
+all. There were some soldiers on the car, young men, boys in fact, who
+seemed by the heavy marching order of their get-up to be going to join
+their regiment. Some of them struggled mannishly with the tears they
+fain would hide. Truly the Irish are attached to the soil. I could not
+help wondering if these lads were ordered to foreign service, and on
+what soil they would lay down their heads to rest forever.
+
+Two persons near by, conversing in low tones on the state of the
+country, drew my attention to them. One was a sonsie good-wife with any
+amount of bundles, the other a little old man with a face of almost
+superhuman wisdom.
+
+"The country will be saved mem, now; when the Coercion Bill has passed
+the country will be saved," said the old man.
+
+"There's a great deal too much fuss made about everything," remarked the
+good-wife. "Look at that boy ten years old taken up, bless us all! for
+whistling at a man."
+
+"Did you take notice, mem, that the whistling was derisive, was
+derisive, it was derisive. That is where it is, you see," said the old
+man with a slow, sagacious roll of his head.
+
+"I would not care what a wee boy could put into a whistle: it was
+awfully childish for a man and a gentleman to take up just a wean for a
+whistle."
+
+"You see mem, they have to be strict and keep everything down. The
+Government have ways of finding out things; they know all though, they
+don't let on. There will be a bloody time, in my opinion."
+
+Oh, the wisdom with which the old man shook his head as he said this,
+adding in a penetrating whisper, "The times of '98 over again or worse."
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+LOYALTY IN THE "BLACK NORTH"--GENTLEMEN'S RESIDENCES--A MODEL IRISH
+ESTATE--A GOOD MAN AND HIS WIFE--VISITING THE POOR.
+
+
+Down in the North the loyalty is intense and loud. An opinion favorable
+to the principles of the Land League it would be hardly prudent to
+express. Any dissatisfaction with anything at all is seldom expressed
+for fear of being classed with these troublers of Ireland.
+
+The weather is very inclement, and has been ever since I landed. Snow,
+rain, hail, sleet, hard frost, mud, have alternated. Some days have been
+one continuous storm of either snow or sleet.
+
+The roads through Antrim are beautifully clean and neat, not only on the
+line of rail but along the country roads inland. The land is surely
+beautiful, exceedingly, and kept like a garden. The number of houses of
+some, nay of great, pretensions, is most astonishing. Houses set in
+spacious and well-kept grounds, with porter lodges, terraced lawns,
+conservatories, &c., abound. They succeed one another so constantly that
+one wonders how the land is able to bear them all, or by what means such
+universal grandeur is supported. There is an outcry of want, of very
+terrible hard times, but certainly the country shows no signs thereof.
+The great wonder to me is where the laborers who produce all this
+neatness and beauty live? Where are the small farmers on whom the high
+rent presses so heavily? Few houses, where such could by any possibility
+be housed, are to be seen from the roadside. There are so very few
+cottages and so very many gentlemen's houses that I am forced to believe
+that the peasantry have almost entirely disappeared. Yet I know there
+must be laborers somewhere to keep the place so beautiful,
+
+Ballymena, always a bustling place, has spread itself from a thriving
+little inland town into a large place of some 8,000 inhabitants.
+Notwithstanding the depression in the linen trade, this town presents a
+thriving, bustling appearance as it has always done. The number of
+whiskey shops is something dreadful. The consumption of that article
+must be steady and enormous to support them. There is squalor enough to
+be seen in the small streets of this town, but that is in every town.
+
+The public road from Ballymena to Grace Hill passes through the Galgorm
+estate which passed from the hands of its last lord, through the
+Encumbered Estates Court, into the hands of its present proprietor. On
+this estate a most wonderful change has been effected, and in a short
+space of time to effect so much. During the old _regime_, and the
+good old times of absentee landlordism, squalor and misery crept up to
+the castle gates. The wretchedness of the tenants could be seen by every
+passer-by. The peasantry tell of unspeakable orgies held at the castle
+even upon the Sabbath day. The change is something miraculous. The waste
+pasture-like demesne is reclaimed and planted. The worst cabins have
+entirely disappeared; the rest are improved till they hardly know
+themselves.
+
+They match the new cottages for which the proprietor took a prize. These
+little homes with their climbing plants, their trim little gardens, look
+as if any one might snuggle down in any of them and be content. The
+castle itself looks altered; it has lost its grim Norman look, and
+stands patriarchal and fatherly among the beautiful homes it has
+created.
+
+Not far from the castle gate is a pretty church and its companion, an
+equally pretty building for the National School. I enquired of several
+how this great improvement came about; the answer was always the same,
+"The estate passed into the hands of a good man who lived on it, and he
+had a godly wife." Passing the pretty little church I heard the sound of
+children's voices singing psalms, and was told that the daughter of the
+castle was teaching the children to sing; I noticed _In Memoriam_
+on a stone in the building, and found that this church was built in
+memory of the good lady of the castle, who has departed to a grander
+inheritance, leaving a name that lingers like a blessing in the country
+side. So the old landlord's loss of an estate has been great gain to
+this people.
+
+It is in the country parts, more remote from the public eye, that one
+sees the destitution wrought by the depression in the linen trade.
+People there are struggling with all their might to live and keep out of
+the workhouses. Hand-loom weaving seems doomed to follow hand-spinning
+and become a thing of the past. Weavers some time ago had a plot of
+ground which brought potatoes and kale to supplement the loom, and on it
+could earn twelve shillings a week. But alas! while the webs grew longer
+the price grew less and they are in a sad case.
+
+I called, with a friend, on some of these weavers: one, an intelligent
+man, with the prevailing Scotch type of face. We found him, accompanied
+by a sickly wife, sitting by a scanty fire, ragged enough. This man for
+his last web was paid at the rate of twopence a yard for weaving linen
+with twenty hundred threads to the inch, but out of this money he had to
+buy dressing and light, and have some one, the sickly wife I suppose, to
+wind the bobbins for him. He must then pay rent for the poor cabin he
+lived in, none too good for a stable, and supply all his wants on the
+remainder.
+
+Another weaver told me that all this dreary winter they had no bed-
+clothes. They think by combining together they will be able to obtain
+better prices; but they are so poor, the depression in the trade is such
+a fearful reality that I am afraid they cannot combine or co-operate to
+any purpose. However, people in such desperate circumstances grasp at
+any hope.
+
+It is wonderful with what disfavor some of these people receive a hint
+of emigration. It seems like transportation to them. Truly these Irish
+do cling to the soil.
+
+The weavers seem to blame the manufacturers for the reduction of wages.
+They complain that the trade is concentrated into a few hands; that
+therefore they cannot sell where they can sell dearest, but are obliged
+to take yarn from a manufacturer and return it to him in cloth. They
+complain that he still further reduces the poor wage by fines. As many
+of these have only a hut but no garden ground, they have nothing to fall
+back on. There are many suffering great want, and with inherited Scotch
+reticence suffering in silence. There may be some injustice and some
+oppression, for that is human nature, but the hand-loom weaving is
+doomed to disappear, I am afraid.
+
+There are some complaints of the high price of land here, and of the
+hard times for farmers, but there is no appearance of hard times.
+Laborers are cheap enough. One shilling a day and food, or ten shillings
+a week without food, seems to be the common wage. The people of Down and
+Antrim, as far as I have gone, are rampantly loyal to Queen and
+Government and to all in authority. If a few blame the manufacturers, or
+think the land is too dear, the large majority blame the improvidence of
+the poor. "They eat bacon and drink tea where potatoes and milk or
+porridge and milk used to be good enough for them." It is difficult to
+imagine the extravagance.
+
+I went through part of the poor-house in Ballymena. It is beautifully
+clean and sweet, and in such perfect order out and in that one is glad
+to think of the sick or suffering poor having such a refuge. What fine,
+patient, intelligent faces were among the sufferers in the infirmary.
+The children in the school-room looked rosy and well-fed, and the babies
+were nursed by the old women. So many of them--it was a sad sight
+indeed.
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+ONE RESULT OF THE COERCION ACT--THE AGRICULTURAL LABORERS IN DOWN AND
+ANTRIM--WHISKEY--RAIN IN IRELAND--A DISCUSSION ON ORANGEISM.
+
+
+It is the eighth of March. The weather remains frightfully inclement;
+the snow and sleet is succeeded by incessant rain storms. The Coercion
+bill has become law and even in the north there seems a difference in
+the people. There is a carefulness of expressing an opinion on any
+subject as if a reign of governmental terror had begun. The loyalty
+always so fervent is now intense and loud. The people here think that
+there is an epidemic of unreasonableness and causeless murmuring raging
+at the south and west.
+
+In all that I have seen in Down and Antrim, the agricultural laborers
+seem to be never at any time much above starvation; any exceptionally
+hard times bring it home to them. In cases of accident, disease, or old
+age, they have no refuge but the workhouse. There is a constant
+struggle, as heroic in God's sight as any struggle of their Scottish
+ancestors, to escape this dreaded fate. When it does overtake them,
+however, the beggar nurses wait upon the sick beggars with a tenderness
+that is inexpressibly touching.
+
+Emigration is impossible to the laborer or the hand-loom weaver. They
+have no money, they have nothing to sell to make money, and they are
+utterly unwilling to be torn from the places where they were born to be
+expatriated as beggars, and as beggars set down upon a foreign shore. I
+am literally giving utterance to the opinions expressed to me.
+
+I have heard these people loudly accused of extravagance; on enquiry was
+told that they bought American bacon and drank tea, whereas, if thrifty,
+they would be content with potatoes and buttermilk, or ditto and stir-
+about. As the cow has disappeared, and potatoes have been known to fail,
+I did not see the extravagance so clearly as I saw the parsimony that
+would grudge the hard-worked laborer or the pale over-worked weaver any
+nourishment at all.
+
+The charge of spending on whiskey seems more likely by the frightful
+amount of whiskey shops. Ireland's whiskey bill is going up into
+somewhere among the millions. It is a fearful pity that this tax on the
+industry and energy of the people could not be abolished. Truth compels
+me to add that faces liquor-painted abound most among the well-dressed
+and apparently well-to-do class whom one meets on the way.
+
+The tenant-farmers, in some cases, complain of their rents, and would
+complain more loudly but for fear of being classed with the Land League,
+for they in the north are intensely loyal. As for the mere laborer, no
+one seems to consider him or think of him at all.
+
+The weather has been so inclement, the days all so much alike, rain,
+hail, snow, sleet, high winds, and we were so busy coughing that the
+days slipped by almost unnoticed. Refusing the tempting offer of a free
+trip to see the beauties of Glengarriff, through the medium of a heavy
+rain we started for Derry by train. Ah! it does know how to rain in
+Ireland. Such a downpour, driven aslant by a fierce wind, so that,
+disregarding the thought of an umbrella, we held on to the rail of the
+jaunting car and were driven in the teeth of the tempest, smiling as if
+we enjoyed it, up to the station.
+
+Both sides of the road at the station were crowded with men in all sorts
+of picturesque habiliments. If it had been near the poor-house we would
+have thought that the population was applying for admittance _en
+masse_. As it was, seeing the station likewise crowded, the platform
+beyond crammed, all eager, expectant, waiting on something, we thought
+it was some renowned field preacher going to give a sermon, or a
+millionaire going to give largess. Not a bit of it. It was some person,
+idle and cruel, who was bringing a couple of poor captive deer to be
+hunted, and the hounds to hunt them, and the immense crowd represented
+the idle and cruel who had assembled to get a glimpse of this noble and
+elevating diversion. If it were possible for the deer and the man to
+change places the crowd would be still more delighted.
+
+Leaving Ballymena behind we panted through a completely sodden country.
+Everything was dripping. In many places the waters were out, and the
+low-lying lands were in a flood. Potatoes in pits linger in the fields,
+turnips and cabbages in the rows where they grew, bearing witness that
+even the last hard winter was many degrees behind the winters of Canada.
+The land on this road is not so good as what I left behind; therefore
+there were few gentlemen's houses, and the small farmhouses wore the
+usual poverty-stricken and neglected appearance. There were more waste
+hillsides devoted to whins, and flat fields tussocked with rushes as we
+swept on through the dripping country, under the sides of almost
+perpendicular rocks, down which little waterfalls, like spun silver,
+fell and broadened into bridal veils ere they reached the bottom. Then
+along the historical Foyle, "whose swelling waters," rather muddy at
+this season of the year, "roll northward to the main," and so following
+its windings and curvings we flashed into Derry.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+THE HILLS OF LOUGH SWILLY--TENANTS' IMPROVEMENTS--A MAN-OF-WAR AND MEN
+OF LOVE--THE PIG--RAMELTON--INTELLIGENT ROOKS--FROM POTATOES AND MILK
+TO CORNMEAL STIRABOUT AND NOTHING--MILFORD--THE LATE LORD LEITRIM'S
+INJUSTICE AND INHUMANITY--ACCOUNT OF HIS DEATH.
+
+
+On the 14th March we left Derry by train, crossing from the banks of the
+Foyle to Lough Swilly. Got on board a little steamer, marvellously like
+an American puffer, and panted and throbbed across the waters of the
+Lough. The sun shone pleasantly, the sky was blue, which deserves to be
+recorded, as this is the very first day since I arrived in Ireland on
+which the sun shone out in a vigorous and decided manner, determined to
+have his own way. We have had a few--a very few--watery blinks of sun
+before, but the rain and sleet always conquered. Sailed up among whin-
+covered mountains, with reclaimed patches creeping up their sides, and
+pretty spots here and there, with handsome houses, new and fresh
+looking, built upon them. It is an inducement to merchants and others to
+build their brand new houses here, that the air is fresh and pure, the
+scenery grand and beautiful and the salt water rolls up to the foot of
+the rocks.
+
+It was pointed out to me by a friend, that these mountain-side farms
+were reclaimed, by great labor I'm sure, by the tenants, trusting to the
+Ulster custom, but the landlords, knowing that custom was not law, then
+raised the rents upon them. If they could not, or were not willing to
+pay the increased rent, increased because of their own labor, they could
+leave; others would rent the places at the increased figure. "As for
+you, ye shiftless, miserable tillers of the soil, ye can go where you
+like; emigrate if you can; get you to the workhouse or the grave if you
+cannot." It is hard to believe that this could be done, or has been done
+lawfully again and again. If it is true it spoils the comfort of looking
+at the pleasant homes built upon reclaimed spots. We look more kindly on
+the cottage homes nestled among nooks of the hills.
+
+The sky did not cloud over again, it remained blue and bright and coaxed
+the waters of Lough Swilly to look blue and bright also. Flocks of white
+sea gulls dipped, darted and sailed about in an abandonment of
+enjoyment. Flights of ducks rose on the wing and whirled past.
+
+We sailed between two forts that frown at one another in a grim and
+desolate manner at Rathmullen. Was informed that a man-of-war ordinarily
+lay at anchor in this Lough to keep half an eye on things in general,
+and poteen, I suppose, in particular. It was complained that the blue
+jackets, finding these mountain girls sweet and pretty, and easy to
+keep--for since cows are become such a price, a good one, not one of the
+bovine aristocracy, but a commonly good one, being value for L20, the
+damsels of the hills are accustomed to "small rations of tea and
+potatoes"--the sailors marry them, "and that," said my informant, "makes
+servant girls scarce about here."
+
+I did not sympathize properly with this complaint. I was glad to hear
+that any form of humanity in this island is scarce. I hoped the blue
+jackets were happy with their Irish wives, for a Liverpool sailor
+lamented in my hearing that the girls of seaport towns did not often
+make good sailors' wives. Let us hope that they did better who chose
+among the wild hills of Lough Swilly.
+
+I am told that another cherished institution of Ireland is passing away--
+
+  "The pig that we meant
+   To drynurse in the parlor to pay off the rent."
+
+The pig is becoming an institution of the past. I was told by a
+gentleman of the first respectability in Derry, that sucking pigs are
+sold in that market for thirty shillings. These would be precious to the
+peasant if he had them, but he has not, nor means to get them. This
+great resource for paying the rent is gone.
+
+Up the Lough we sailed into beautiful Ramelton, an exceptionally pretty,
+clean little place, boasting of a very nicely kept hotel. The scenery
+all around is delightful. Across the Lannon River, on the banks of which
+is one of the principal streets, is a lofty ridge crowned with grand
+trees. The Lannon runs into Lough Swilly, and is affected by the ebb and
+flow of the tide. The trees on the ridge are tenanted by a thriving
+colony of rooks, very busy just now with their spring work. Two
+delightful roads, one above another, run along the brow of the hill
+under the shade of the trees.
+
+I discovered that rooks know a great deal; that there is infinite
+variety of meaning in their caw. The young couples who are starting
+housekeeping have not only to provide materials and build their homes,
+but to defend their property at every stage from the rapacity of their
+neighbors. They have also to build in such a manner as to satisfy the
+artistic taste of the community. I saw an instance of this during a
+morning walk. Five rooks were sitting in judgment on the work of a young
+and thoughtless pair of rooks, I suppose. The work was condemned, the
+young couple were evicted without mercy and the nest pulled to pieces by
+the five censors with grave caws of disapprobation, while the evicted
+ones flew round and showed fight and used bad language. The Coercion Act
+was not in favor among the black coated gentry of the air.
+
+It has fallen like a spell over Ireland though, and evictions are
+hurried through as if they thought their time was short. People are
+afraid to speak to a stranger.
+
+I have succeeded in obtaining introductions, which I hope will give me
+an entrance into society in Donegal.
+
+Was driven by my new friends over a part of Lord Leitrim's estate, and
+through his town of Milford. The murdered Earl has left a woeful memory
+of himself all over the country side. He must have had as many curses
+breathed against him as there are leaves on the trees, if what
+respectable people who dare speak of his doings say of him be true,
+which it undoubtedly is. Godly people of Scottish descent, Covenanters
+and Presbyterians, who would not have harmed a hair of his head for
+worlds, have again and again lifted their hands to heaven and cried.
+"How long, Lord, are we to endure the cruelty of this man?"
+
+One case (which is a sample case) I will notice. In the plantation of
+Scottish settlers in the North it seems that either for company or
+mutual protection against the dispossessed children of the soil, the
+farmhouses are built together in clachans or little groups. After a
+lapse of years these clachans in some cases expanded into small towns.
+The people built houses and made improvements on their holdings, paying
+their rent punctually, but holding the right to their own money's worth,
+the result of years of toil and stern economy under the Ulster custom.
+In this way the greater part of the town of Milford sprung into
+existence.
+
+One John Buchanan, a Presbyterian of Scottish descent, son of
+respectable people who had lived on this estate for generations, was
+employed in the land office of the Earl of Leitrim over twenty years.
+This man trusting to the Ulster custom, and the honest goodness of the
+old Earl, grandfather of the present Earl, a good landlord and a just
+man, by all accounts, invested his savings in building on the site of
+the old farmhouse in Milford a block of buildings--quarrying the stone
+for them--consisting of two large houses on Main street, and the rest
+tenement houses on Buchanan street. He improved his farm by reclaiming
+land, making nice fields out of bog.
+
+When the good Earl died and the late Earl came into possession, he
+immediately raised the rent to nearly double what was paid before,
+making John Buchanan pay dearly for his improvements. John Buchanan died
+rather suddenly, leaving a widow and five children. The widow in her
+overwhelming grief was visited by Lord Leitrim personally. He told her
+with great abuse and outrageous language, that she had no claim whatever
+to a particle of the property, "she did not own a stone of it." The
+widow, worn and nervous with the great trouble she had passed through,
+was unable to bear this new trouble; his Lordship's violence gave her a
+shock from which she never recovered. He then sent his bailiffs and put
+her and her children out; put out the fires, as taking possession, and
+re-let the place to her, again doubling the rent. Her eldest son, a
+young lad, boiling with wrath over the wrong done and the language used
+to his mother, went to his aunt, living at some distance, and besought
+her to send him out of the country, lest he should be tempted to take
+vengeance in his own hand. His aunt seeing this danger, fitted him out
+from her own pocket, and the poor lad, his mother consenting, was
+expatriated out of harm's way to far Australia.
+
+The widow never recovered the shock which Lord Leitrim had given her. It
+was aggravated by despair at seeing all the savings of her husband's
+lifetime appropriated by the strong hand, and her children left
+destitute. She was also in debt to the value of L600 for building
+material for an addition built to the house and some office houses,
+built later on, some time after the rest of the property. This debt of
+L600 wore on her. She had no means of payment; all her means were
+swallowed up in this property. The creditors could not collect it off
+the property, it was not held liable for the debt, neither was Lord
+Leitrim, who had seized the property. Her sense of honesty and the honor
+of her husband's name made her fret over this debt. The doctor had
+declared her illness heart disease brought on by a shock, and her death
+imminent. To soothe her mind her sister again came forward and out of
+her own pocket paid the money. The widow died and was buried. Their only
+relative tried what the law would do to redress the grievances of the
+orphans. The presiding judge, the chairman of the quarter sessions,
+lifted up his hands saying, "Must I issue a decree that will rob these
+helpless orphans." The decree was issued, and the children ejected
+without a farthing of compensation. To leave no stone unturned, the
+children went in a body to Lord Leitrim to ask, as justice had been
+powerless, for mercy from him. He ordered his servant to put them out.
+At the time these orphans were turned out of the house their father
+built, there was not a farthing of rent due, all had been paid up at the
+unjust Earl's own estimate.
+
+This case had been heard by the Royal Commissioners sent to enquire into
+these things, but it appears that there is no law to redress a tenant's
+wrong. This occurred under the tenant custom of Ulster.
+
+I drove round this fine property in Milford. It was pointed out to me
+that almost all the houses in the town were acquired by Lord Leitrim, by
+the strong hand, in the same way. Passed the house from which the
+Presbyterian minister, the Rev. Mr. White, was evicted. It was his own
+private property. It stands windowless and roofless, a monument to the
+dead earl. The priest of the parish had no house of his own; he was a
+boarder with one of his flock, who had built himself a house in the time
+of the good earl. When Lord Leitrim fancied that he had cause of quarrel
+with the priest he obliged his tenant to put him out, on pain of losing
+the house which he had built. After he had got rid of priest and
+minister, he built a little Episcopal Church, that the people might
+worship at his shrine. The little church stands empty now. The graveyard
+about this little church was a rocky corner with little soil. The
+minister ventured to request that the people might have leave to draw a
+little clay from a hill nearby, to cover the bodies interred there, as
+there was not soil enough. "I'll not give a spoonful; let their bones
+bleach there," said the earl.
+
+During the life-time of the good earl, the people being encouraged to
+improve their lands, crept up the mountain side, reclaiming whatever
+land they could. I have seen some of these portions, and noticed how
+they had got up close to the rocks, by using the spade where the plough
+would not go. They cleared off the whins of the mountain; they drained
+the bogs. They made kilns and burned lime for top-dressing. When the
+wicked lord came into possession he not only raised the rent on the
+tenants' improvements, but built a kiln of his own, and burned lime,
+forbidding them to use theirs, compelling them to buy from him at his
+price. He would not even allow them to make manure of the floating sea-
+weed that drifted in from the sea.
+
+Went to see the place where Lord Leitrim was done to death. Looked down
+on Milford Bay, dotted with little treeless and shrubless islands. Round
+it are round-shouldered hills, brown and bare now--purple with heather
+bells in summer time, I dare say. On a point stretching out into this
+bay stands his residence, Manor Vaughan. The road leading from Manor
+Vaughan to Milford is screened by a plantation of trees. On the opposite
+side of the bay the hills are really mountains. The murderers crossed
+the bay, tied their boat to a stone, and waited in the plantation. Lord
+Leitrim, with his clerk, was driven along on one car, followed by
+another containing his servants. His car, somewhat in advance, went
+slowly up a little hill. Those lying in wait fired; the driver fell
+dead. Lord Leitrim was wounded; he jumped off on one side, the clerk on
+the other. He had pistols but they were in the car; he retreated, trying
+to defend himself as they poured on him shot after shot. Those in the
+other car, instead of coming up, stopped in mortal terror. The clerk,
+only slightly wounded in the ear, ran to them, exclaiming, "They are
+killing Lord Leitrim, they have killed me," and dropped dead with
+nervous terror. The assassins had poured in all their shot, still the
+Earl was not dead. He might yet have been saved if there had been any
+one to help him. What must his thoughts have been in that supreme
+moment. They beat the life out of him, he defending himself to the last.
+They cut loose their boat, rowed across the bay, cast it adrift, took
+the mountains and escaped.
+
+The Earl fell, his head in a little pool of water. The country people
+coming in to Milford town passed by with white faces on the other side;
+no one lifted his head, no one looked to see if life was extinct. At
+length the constabulary came, and the remains of the dreaded lord were
+carried in a cart into Milford. There was a _post mortem_
+examination; part of his poor remains was buried in the graveyard of the
+little church which he built, and a load of the clay he refused to his
+tenants brought to cover it. His name will long linger in evil fame
+among the mountains and deserts.
+
+It is but just to the memory of this man to say, that some, who with
+good reason abhor his memory, do not believe that charges of gross
+immorality made against him were true. Others who think themselves
+equally well informed hold a contrary opinion. To think of mentioning
+all I have heard of his oppressive injustice would be impossible. I was
+told that when news of his death came into certain places, men clasped
+hands and drank one another's health as at a festival; that pious people
+thanked God for the deliverence, who abhorred the means by which it came
+about.
+
+I saw among the hills three nice farms, which a well-to-do farmer bought
+and improved, and finally bequeathed to his three sons. One died and the
+Ahab-like Earl took possession. Wishing to evict another for the purpose
+of throwing two farms into one, he offered the farm to the remaining
+brother in addition to his own. The man refused to ruin his brother. The
+Earl, to punish him, raised his rent from L35 to L70. Griffith's
+valuation of this farm is L29 5s. Another eviction from Milford was so
+pitiful in its cruelty that the compassion of the country was aroused,
+and a home bought by subscription for the old people. I saw the property
+from which these people were evicted in Milford, a valuable row of
+houses.
+
+The present Earl acknowledged the justice of the claim of John
+Buchanan's children, and spoke of restitution, but his agent, on whom
+the mantle of the late Earl had fallen, persuaded him against it, as
+nearly all the property in Milford town had been acquired in the same
+way. "Making restitution to one would open up the question of the
+others, and could not be afforded."
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+IRISH COLD AND CANADIAN COLD--EVIDENCES OF THE FAMINE--PREPARING FOR
+THE IRISH LAND BILL--THE BAD PEOPLE OF DONEGAL--INFLUENCE OF THE BALLOT
+ON LANDLORDS--A MOUNTAIN STORM--A "BETTER CLASS" FARMER'S HOME.
+
+
+To make excursions to a short distance from this pretty town of
+Ramelton and to return again has been my occupation for the last week.
+It was arranged that on Monday, March 21st, I was to go with some kind
+friends to see life up among the mountains of Donegal, but down came
+another storm. Snow, hail, sleet, rain, hail, sleet and rain again.
+Storms rule and reign among these hills this March, destroying all
+prospect of March dust I am afraid. Nothing could be done but wait till
+the storm was over, going to the windows once in a while to watch the
+snow driving past, or to notice that it had changed to sleet or rain.
+
+The mountain tops are white again, and look wild and wintry. To-day it
+rains with a will. The cold here at present is more chill and
+penetrating than Canadian cold. I have put on more, and yet more
+clothing, and I am cold. Many, very many, people during the past dreary
+winter have had no bed-clothes at all.
+
+I am afraid from what I see and hear that the famine was more dreadful
+here in Donegal than we in Canada imagined. Plenty of people even now
+are living on Indian meal stirabout, without milk or anything else to
+take with it. This, three times a day, and thankful to have enough of it
+to satisfy hunger. It was pitiful to see little children and aged women,
+with but thin clothes on, walking barefoot through the snowy slush of
+yesterday.
+
+My attention was drawn to a ballad singer, almost blind, "whose looped
+and windowed raggedness" was picturesque. His dreary attempts at singing
+with his teeth chattering, the rain and sleet searching out every corner
+of his rags, was pitiful. He was hardly able to stand against the
+cutting wind. I sent out and bought his ballad as an excuse to give him
+the Queen's picture. The songs were clever for local poetry. They were
+treasonous too, but then loyalty is the song of the well fed, well clad,
+well-to-do citizen. Treason and wretchedness fit well together, in a
+helpless, harmless way.
+
+Your London correspondent of February 11th remarks, "Even Ireland has
+nothing left but to settle down and attend to putting in the crops."
+This is an English and comfortable view--the remark of a man who was not
+there to see. It is far otherwise here in County Donegal. Evictions are
+flying about as thick as "the leaves of the forest when autumn hath
+flown." This wild second winter is the time selected for these
+evictions. Every local paper has notices of evictions here and there.
+
+They tell me that the reason of the great number of evictions at present
+is to prevent the wretched tenants from having any benefit under the
+promised Land Bill. If they are evicted now and readmitted as
+caretakers, they can be sent off again at a week's notice and have no
+claim under the Ulster custom for past improvements. I think any candid
+person can see that these people are not in a position to pay back rent,
+or even present rent at the high rate to which it is raised. In some
+instances they are not able to pay any rent at all. There had been some
+years of bad seasons ending in one of absolute famine.
+
+The report of the Relief Committee for northern Donegal was published on
+28th of October, 1880. I met with a member of that Committee, which was
+composed of sixteen Protestants and eleven Catholics, including the
+Catholic Bishop of Raphoe and the Presbyterian member of Parliament.
+This gentleman informed me that food was given in such quantities as to
+preserve life only. Seed was also given. Many people of respectable
+standing, whose need was urgent, applied for relief secretly, not
+wishing their want to be known. Helped in this careful way the amount
+given, exclusive of expenses, in North Donegal was L33,660.17.1, of
+which amount the New York _Herald_ gave L2,000, besides L203 to an
+emigration fund enabling 115 persons to leave the country. Surely we
+must think that before these people applied for public charity--and
+every case was examined into by some of the Committee or their agents--
+they had exhausted all their means, and sold all they had to sell. How,
+then, could they possibly be able to pay back rent in March, 1881?
+
+In the middle of my letter I got the long-waited-for opportunity to
+leave Ramelton behind and go up into the Donegal Hills.
+
+The environs of Ramelton are wonderfully beautiful, sudden hills, green
+vales, lovely nooks in unexpected places, waters that sparkle and dash,
+or that flow softly like the waters of Shiloh, great aristocratic trees
+in clumps, standing singly, grouped by the water's edge, as if they had
+sauntered down to look about them, or drawn up on the hill-side many
+deep, stretching far away like the ranks of a grand army. All that these
+can do to make Ramelton a place of beauty has been done. It is hemmed in
+by hills that lie up against the sky, marked off into fields by whin
+hedges, till they look like sloping chequer-boards. Beyond them, in
+places, tower up the mountain-tops of dark Donegal, crusted over with
+black heather, seamed by rift and ravine, bare in places where these
+rocks, those bones of the mountains, have pushed themselves through the
+heather, till it looks like a ragged cloak. The sun shines, the rooks
+flap busily about, as noisy as a parliament, the air is keen, and so we
+drive out of Ramelton.
+
+The sky was blue, although the wind was cold, and it was blowing quite a
+gale. We had not left the town far behind when the storm recommenced in
+all its fury. The hail beat in our faces until we were obliged to cover
+up our heads. Finally the pony refused to go a step farther, but turned
+his obstinate shoulder to the storm and stood there, where there was no
+shelter of any kind, and there he stood till the storm moderated a
+little, only to recommence again. Up one hill, down another, along a
+bleak road through a bog, past the waters of Lough Fern, up more hills,
+round other hills, across other bleak bogs, the little town of
+Kilmacrennan, up other hills, the storm meanwhile raging in all its fury
+until we drew up on the lee side of a little mountain chapel.
+
+The clergyman, who happened to be there, received us most courteously,
+and conducted us to his house. We were offered refreshments, and treated
+with the greatest kindness. Owing to this priest's courtesy and kindness
+I was provided with a room in the house of one of his parishioners, a
+mountain side farmer.
+
+I parted with my friends with great regret. They returned to Ramelton
+through the storm, which increased in fury every moment. I, in the safe
+shelter of the farmhouse, looked out of the window, hoping the storm
+would moderate, but it increased until every thing a few yards from the
+house, every mountain top and hill side were blotted out, and nothing
+could be seen but the flurrying snow driven past by the winds.
+
+I have now left the Presbyterians of the rich, low-lying lands behind,
+and am up among the Catholic people of the hills. I have felt quite at
+home with these kindly folk. They remind me of the kindliness of the
+Celtic population of another and far-off land. I like the sound of the
+Irish tongue, which is spoken all around me. I feel quite at home by the
+peat fire piled up on the hearth. The house where I am staying is that
+of a farmer of the better class. A low thatched house divided into a but
+and a ben. The kitchen end has the bare rafters, black and shining with
+concentrated smoke. The parlor end is floored above and has a board
+floor. Among the colored prints of the Saviour which adorn the wall are
+two engravings, in gilt frames, of Bright and Gladstone, bought when the
+Land Bill of 1870 was passed.
+
+This Bill, by the way, has been evaded with great ease, for the law
+breakers were the great who knew the law, and the wronged were the poor
+who were ignorant of it. The farmer's wife could not do enough to make
+me welcome. She had the kind and comely face and pleasant tongue that
+reminded me of Highland friends in the long ago. Their name of Murray,
+which is a prevalent name on these hills, had a Highland sound. Feeling
+welcome, and safe under the care that has led me thus far, I fell asleep
+in the best bed, with its ancient blue and white hangings, and slept
+soundly.
+
+These people are very thrifty. The blankets of the bed were homespun;
+the fine linen towel was the same. The mistress's dress was home-made,
+and so was the cloth of her husband's clothes. In noticing this I was
+told that where they could keep a few sheep the people were better off,
+but it was harder now to keep sheep than formerly.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+THE HILL COUNTRY OF DONEGAL--ON THE SQUARE--OFFICE RULES
+
+
+Left up among my country people in this hill country of Donegal, I set
+myself to see and to hear what they had to say for themselves or against
+their landlords. In the pauses of storm I walked up the mountains to see
+the people in their homes. I seem to have lost the power of description.
+I will never think of scenes I saw there without tears. I never, in
+Canada, saw pigs housed as I saw human beings here. Sickness, old age,
+childhood penned up in such places that one shuddered to go into them.
+Now, mark me! every hovel paid rent, or was under eviction for failing
+to pay.
+
+The landlord has no duties in the way of repairing a roof or making a
+house comfortable. Such a thing is utterly unknown here. To fix the
+rent, to collect the rent, to make office rules as whim or cupidity
+dictates, to enforce them, in many instances with great brutality, is
+the sole business of the landlord; and the whole power of the Executive
+of England is at his back. This is not a good school in which to learn
+loyalty. Submission to absolute decrees or eviction are the only
+alternative.
+
+The tenant has no voice in the bargain. He has no power to be one party
+to a contract. This irresponsible power of an autocrat over serfs of the
+soil is bad for both parties. I will try to tell these people's side of
+the question as nearly in their own words as I can.
+
+When the native population was driven off the good valley lands to the
+hills of Donegal during the confiscation times, they built their cabins
+in groups, like the Scotch _clachans_, for company, perhaps even
+for protection. Each man broke up, clearing off stones and rooting up
+whins, the best patch within his reach. He ditched and drained pieces of
+low-lying bog, and paid for what he cultivated, all the rest being
+common.
+
+By what title the Clemens of Leitrim got lordship over the wild hills as
+well as the fat lowlands I cannot tell; but all the country here, for
+miles and miles, up hill and down vale, is his. The people have
+absolutely no rights, far as the land is concerned.
+
+The first move towards this dreadful state of things was called
+"Squaring the farms." This was done to compel the people to pay for the
+wild as well as the cultivated lands. Under the old system a man might
+have a few goats or sheep, or a heifer, on the hills, and, if his crop
+was not good, or a hail storm threshed out his oats, he could sacrifice
+these to pay the rent. When the farms were squared each man drew lots
+for his new holding. I am speaking of Lord Leitrim's estate. This was a
+hard decree, but the tenant had no alternative but to submit. A man
+often found himself squared out of the best of his clearing, squared out
+of his cabin and all accommodation for his cow or horse, and squared on
+to a new place without any house on it at all.
+
+I made particular enquiry if Lord Leitrim had ever made any allowance or
+compensation to a man deprived of the house, which he or his fathers had
+built, after this summary fashion. No compensation. Every fixture put
+upon the land belonged to the landlord absolutely.
+
+"Was there ever any help allowed to a man in building a new house?"
+
+"In a very few instances a man got a door and a couple of window-sashes
+as a charitable assistance, not by any means as a compensation."
+
+After some time the wild mountains, where there was nothing but rocks
+and heather, were fenced off. Before this the goats and sheep grazed up
+there. A new office rule made the price for a sheep or goat picking a
+living among the heather. It was one shilling and sixpence for a sheep
+with a lamb at her foot, and other animals in proportion. Still the
+wretched men of the hills struggled to live on in the only homes they
+had, or had ever known. Then the rents were raised. In one instance from
+L3 11s 4d to L6 5s for 6 Irish acres, the increased value being the
+result of the man's own hard labor. In another instance from L1 9s 4d to
+L13. Another office rule charges five shillings for the privilege of
+cutting turf for fuel even if cut on the little holding for which he is
+paying rent.
+
+Now, when every nerve was strained to pay this rack rent, and cattle
+were high in price, if the unfortunate tenant failed, why, he was
+evicted. He might go where he liked, to the workhouse or the asylum, or
+the roadside, his little clearing would make pasture, and this, at the
+price of beef cattle, would be still more profitable. For any landlord
+in this part of Donegal to speak of freedom of contract is a fallacy. It
+does not exist.
+
+The oppression at present exercised by Captain Dopping on the Leitrim
+estate, which he can carry out safely under the protection of bayonets,
+would raise up Judge Lynch in America before three months. Lately, the
+people told me, he visited the farm-houses in person, pulled open the
+doors of the little room that the better class strive to have, without
+permission asked, and walked in to inspect if there were any signs of
+prosperity hidden from the eye that might warrant further extortion.
+This act was resented with a feeling that found no relief in words. I
+noticed that there was no word of complaint or denunciation anywhere.
+Facts were stated, and you understood by glance and tone that the time
+for mere complaint was past.
+
+I was taken to see a paralytic schoolmaster who had dared to build a
+room next to the school-house out of which he was helped into school
+every morning, for he could teach, though he had lost the use of his
+limbs. No sooner did Lord Leitrim know this than he had the paralytic
+carried out and laid on the road, and the room which he had built with
+his earnings and the help of his neighbors, was pulled down--not one
+stone was left upon another. He then lost his situation which was his
+living. I can hardly bear to describe this man's dwelling in which I
+found himself, his wife, four children and the cow. The winds of the
+mountain and the rains of heaven equally found their way in. His wife
+teaches sewing in the school at a salary of L8 per annum. This, with
+other help from the Rev. Mr. Martin, formerly Episcopal Rector of
+Kilmacrennan, who got the wife the post of schoolmistress, has kept
+these people alive. The father has not seen the sky since he was evicted
+in 1870. At present there is a writ of ejectment on the house for L9 of
+back rent, and he is sued for seed, got in the time of scarcity.
+
+The house is horrible--there are boards with some straw on them over the
+beds. The children are very pretty, and as hardy as mountain goats. The
+father was quite an educated man, to judge from his speech. I, who was
+well clothed, shivered at the hearth, but want and nakedness stayed
+there constantly. If this poor man were put in the poor-house, he would
+have to part from the faithful wife and sweet children; but that is the
+doom that stares him in the face.
+
+The longer I stayed among the hills the more I became convinced that the
+people had strained every nerve to pay what they considered unjust and
+extortionate rents. They worked hard; they farmed hard; they wore poor
+clothing; they left their hill and went over to Scotland or England, at
+harvest time, to earn money to pay the rent. "And we were not considered
+as kindly, or as much respected, as their hogs or dogs," said a farmer
+to me. There was nothing left after the rent for comfort, or to use in
+case of sickness; they always lived on the brink of starvation.
+
+"Why did you not refuse to pay these increased rents when they were put
+upon you first? You should have refused in a body, and stood out," I
+said to one man. "Some could do that, my lady, but most could not. At
+first I had the old people depending on me, and I could not see them on
+the hillside; now I have little children, and the wife is weakly. And
+there were many like me, or even worse."
+
+Now consider some of the office rules. My lord had a pound of his own:
+for a stray beast, so much; for a beast caught up the mountain without
+leave, eviction; for burning the limestone on your own place instead of
+buying it at the lord's kiln, eviction; for burning some parings of the
+peat land, the ashes of which made the potatoes grow bigger and drier,
+eviction. Not only did the man who did not doff his hat to the landlord
+stand in danger, but the man who did not uncover to his lowest under-
+bailiff. One exaction after another, one tyranny after another has dug a
+gulf between landlord and tenant that will be hard to bridge. I saw a
+stone house used as a barn. Lord Leitrim made the man who built it, who
+had got permission to build from the good Earl, tear down the chimney
+and make an office-house of it, on pain of eviction. He must continue to
+live himself in the hovel. Another widow woman, evicted for not being
+able to pay her rent, had the roof torn off her house, but has a place
+like a goose pen among the ruins, and here she stays. Every day rides
+out Capt. Dopping with his escort of police, paid for by the county, and
+evicts without mercy. Since the eyes of the world have been drawn to
+Ireland by the proceedings of the Land League none have been left to die
+outside. The tenants are admitted as caretakers by the week, but the
+eviction, I am told, extinguishes any claim the poor people might have
+under the Ulster Custom.
+
+I have seen nothing yet to make me think I was in a disturbed country
+except meeting Captain Dopping and his escort, and seeing white police
+barracks and dandy policemen, who literally overrun the country. It
+carries one's mind back to the days of bloody Claverhouse or wicked
+Judge Jeffries to hear and see the feelings which the country people--
+Catholic as well as Protestant--have towards the memory of the late
+Earl. "Dear, the cup of his iniquity was full, the day of vengeance was
+come, and the earth could hold him no longer," said a Protestant to me.
+
+"It was bad for the people, whoever they were, that took vengeance out
+of the hands of the Almighty, but many a poor creature he had sent out
+of the world before he lay helpless at the mercy of his enemies," said
+many an orthodox person to me. One poor girl on that dreadful day
+thanked God that the oppressor was laid low. Her mother evicted, had
+died on the roadside exposed to the weather of the hills, her brother
+went mad at the sight of misery he would almost have died to relieve but
+could not, and is now in the asylum at Letterkenny. One can imagine with
+what feeling this desolate girl lifted her hands when she heard of the
+murder, and said, "I thank Thee, O Lord."
+
+What kind of a system is it that produces such scenes, and such
+feelings? It is a noticeable fact how many there are in the asylum in
+Letterkenny whose madness they blame on the horrors of these evictions.
+Wise legislation may find a remedy for these evils, but the memory of
+them will never die out. It is graven on the mountains, it is stamped on
+the valleys, it is recorded on the rocks forever.
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+ALONG A MOUNTAIN ROAD--WHY THE RENT WAS RAISED--TURNING FARMS INTO
+PASTURES--ST. COLOMBKILL--IRISH HOSPITALITY--A NOTABLE BALLAD.
+
+
+The twenty-sixth of March rose sunny and cold, and I decided to hire a
+horse and guide to go to Derryveigh, made memorable by Mr. John George
+Adair. The road lay through wild mountain scenery. Patches of cultivated
+fields lay on the slopes; hungry whin-covered hills rose all round them,
+steep mountains rank upon rank behind; deep bog lands, full of
+treacherous holes, lay along at the foot of the mountain here and there.
+The scenery is wild beyond description, not a tree for miles in all the
+landscape.
+
+On some of the lower hills men were ploughing with wretched-looking
+horses. Men were delving with spades where horses could not keep their
+footing. The houses were wretched, some only partly roofed, some with
+the roof altogether gone and a shed erected inside, but for the most
+wretched of all the hovels rent is exacted.
+
+Every bit of clearing was well and carefully labored. The high, broad
+stone fences round hillside fields were all gathered from the soil.
+
+At one place, I was told that the brother of the occupant had sent him,
+from America, money to make the house a little more comfortable. He
+roofed it with slate. The rent was raised from L2 9s 4d to L13 10s. I
+may remark here that the tenants complain that the present Earl, through
+his agent, Capt. Dopping, is even more oppressive in a steady, cruel
+manner than the late Earl.
+
+The late hard times--the cruel famine--has led to the sacrifice of all
+stock, so that some of these people have not a four-footed beast on
+their holding.
+
+As we wound along among the hills my guide spoke of getting another man
+to accompany us, who was well acquainted with the way to Derryveigh, and
+we stopped at his place accordingly. He came to the car to explain that
+he was busy fanning up corn, or he would be only too glad to come. In a
+subdued whisper he told my guide of Capt. Dopping having been at his
+house, with his bailiffs and body-guard of police--threatening the wife,
+he said. He then told of the sacrifices he had made of one thing and
+another to gather up one year's rent. He had to pay five shillings for
+cutting turf on his own land, and one shilling for a notice served on
+him. Poor little man, he had a face that was cut for mirthfulness, and
+his woefulness was both touching and amusing. So we left him and went
+our way.
+
+Along the road, winding up and down among the hills, by sudden bogs and
+rocky crags still more desolate and lonely looking, we came upon a
+cultured spot, now and then, where a solitary man would be digging round
+the edges of the rocks. Again we were among wild mountains heaving up
+their round heads to the sky and looking down at us over one another's
+shoulders. It brought to my mind the Atlantic billows during the last
+stormy February. It is as if the awful rolling billows mounting to the
+sky were turned into stone and fixed there, and the white foam changed
+into dark heather. After driving some time the landscape softened down
+into rolling hills beautifully cultivated, and sprinkled here and there
+with grazing cattle.
+
+We are coming to Gartan Lake, and where there is a belt of trees by the
+lake shore stands the residence of Mr. Stewart, another landlord. He,
+when cattle became high-priced, thought that cattle were much preferable
+to human beings, so he evicted gradually the dwellers who had broken in
+the hills, and entered into possession, without compensation, of the
+fields, the produce of others' toil and sweat. His dwelling is in a
+lonely, lovely spot, and it stands alone, for no cottage home is at all
+near. He has wiped out from the hill sides every trace of the homes of
+those who labored on these pleasant fields and brought them under
+cultivation. Since the Land League agitation began he has given a
+reduction of rents, and the whole country side feel grateful and
+thankful.
+
+There is no solitude so great that we do not meet bailiffs at their
+duty, or policemen on the prowl.
+
+We are now nearing Derryveigh. There are two lakes lying along the
+valley connected with a small stream. My guide informed me that both
+lakes once abounded with salmon. The celebrated St. Colombkill was born
+on the shores of the Gartan Lake. Being along the lake one day he asked
+some fishermen on the lower lake to share with him of the salmon they
+had caught. They churlishly refused, and the saint laid a spell on the
+waters, and no salmon come there from that day to this. They are
+plentiful in Upper Gartan Lake, and come along the stream to the
+dividing line, where the stream is spanned by a little rustic bridge;
+here they meet an invisible barrier, which they cannot pass. I told my
+guide in return the story of the Well of St. Keyne, but he thought it
+unlikely. So there is a limit to belief.
+
+Since Mr. Adair depopulated Derryveigh, and gave it over to silence, the
+roads have been neglected, and have become rather difficult for a car.
+The relief works in famine time have been mainly road-making, and there
+are smooth hard roads through the hills in all directions, so the people
+complain of roads that would not be counted so very bad in the Canadian
+backwoods. However, the difficulty being of a rocky nature, we left the
+car at the house of a dumb man, the only one of the inhabitants spared
+by Adair. He and his sister, also dumb, lived together on the mountain
+solitudes. She is dead, and a relative, the daughter of one of the
+evicted people, has come to keep house for him. He made us very welcome,
+seeing to it that the horse was put up and fed with sheaf oats. I and my
+guides, for we were now joined by the man who had had the oats to fan--
+he had got his brother to take his place and came a short cut across the
+hills to meet us--so we all three set out to walk over Derryveigh.
+
+It was a trying walk, a walk to be measured by ups and downs, for the
+Derryveigh hamlets were widely scattered. There they were--roofless
+homes, levelled walls, desolation and silence. And it is a desolation,
+indeed. Broken down walls here and there, singly and in groups, mark the
+place where there was a contented population when Mr. Adair bought the
+estate. He had made plans for turning his purchase into a veritable El
+Dorado. The barren mountains are fenced off, surely at a great expense,
+that no sheep or lamb might bite a heather bell without pay. It was to
+be a great pasture for black-faced sheep. The sides of the mountains,
+which are bog in many places, are scored with drains to dry up the bog
+holes and give the sheep a sure footing. I did not see many sheep on the
+hill or many cattle on the deserted farms. It is an awfully lonesome
+place; desolation sits brooding among the broken-down walls. My guide, a
+lonesome-looking man, enlivened our way by remarks like these: "This was
+a widdy's house. She was a well-doin' body." "Here was a snug place.
+See, there's the remains of a stone porch that they built to break off
+the wind." "That was Jamie Doherty's, he that died on the road-side
+after he was evicted. You see, nobody dare lift the latch or open the
+door to any of the poor creatures that were put out."
+
+And this has been done; human beings have died outside under the sky for
+no crime, and this under the protection of English law. Many of these
+people lost their reason, and are in the asylum at Letterkenny. Some are
+still _coshering_ here and there among their charitable neighbors,
+while many are bitter hearted exiles across the sea. After walking up
+and down amid this pitiful desolation, and hearing many a heart-rending
+incident connected with the eviction, a sudden squall of hail came on,
+and we were obliged to take shelter on the lee side of a ruined wall
+till it blew over. To while away the time one of the guides told me of a
+local song made on the eviction, the refrain being, "Five hundred
+thousand curses on cruel John Adair."
+
+Across the Gartan Lake we could see from our partial shelter the point
+to which Mr. Stewart wasted the people off his estate. Mr. Stewart's is
+a handsome lonely place, but when one hears all these tales of
+spoliation it prevents one from admiring a fine prospect. "He is dealing
+kindly with the people now," said my guides, "whatever changed his heart
+God knows."
+
+The shower being over we returned to the house of the dummy. In our
+absence dinner had been prepared for us. She had no plates, but the
+table on which she laid oat cakes was as white as snow. She gave us a
+little butter, which, by the signs and tokens, I knew to be all she had,
+boiled eggs, made tea of fearful strength, and told us to eat. My guides
+enjoyed the mountain fare with mountain appetites. I tried to eat, but
+somehow my throat was full of feelings. I had great difficulty to make
+this mountain maid accept of a two shilling piece for her trouble. We
+returned by the way we came to a point where we had a view of a rectory
+which was pointed out to me as the abode of another good rector. These
+people do seem to feel kindness very much. Here we took another road to
+visit Glenveigh and see Adair's castle. On the way we were informed by a
+woman, speaking in Irish, that a process-server near Creeslach was fired
+at through the window of his house. He had been out serving processes,
+and was at home sitting with his head resting on his hand. Three shots
+were fired, two going over his head and one going through the hand on
+which his head was resting. Two men are taken up to-day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I have secured a copy of the ballad referred to by our guide, which
+records the desolation of Derryveigh. All such actions are celebrated in
+local poetry; but this is one of the fiercest; you can publish it if you
+think best:--
+
+DERRYVEIGH.
+
+  "The cold snow rests on levelled walls, where was a happy home,
+   The wintry sky looks down upon a desolate hearthstone.
+   The hearth by which the cradle song has lulled our infant's sleep,
+   Is open to the pitying skies that nightly o'er it weep.
+   There is rippling in the waters, there is rustling through the air,
+   Five hundred thousand curses upon cruel John Adair.
+
+  "It is not we that curse him, though in woe our sad heart bleeds,
+   The curse that's on him is the curse that follows wicked deeds.
+   He suspected and he punished, he judged, and then he drew
+   The besom of destruction our quiet homesteads through;
+   So it's rippling in the waters, it is rustling through the air,
+   Five hundred thousand curses upon cruel John Adair.
+
+  "We little dreamed upon our hills destruction's hour was nigh,
+   Woe! Woe the day our quiet glens first met his cruel eye!
+   He coveted our mountains all in an evil hour,
+   We have tasted of his mercy, and felt his grasp of power;
+   Through years to come of summer sun, of wintry sleet and snow,
+   His name shall live in Derryveigh as Campbell's in Glencoe.
+
+  "A tear is on each heather bell where heaven's dew distils,
+   And weeping down the mountain side flows on a thousand rills;
+   The winds rush down the empty glens with many a sigh and moan,
+   Where little children played and sang is desolate and lone.
+   The scattered stones of many homes have witnessed our despair,
+   And every stone's a monument to cruel John Adair.
+
+  "Where are the hapless people, doomed by John Adair's decree?
+   Some linger in the drear poor-house--some are beyond the sea;
+   One died behind the cold ditch--back beneath the open sky,
+   And every star in heaven was a witness from on high.
+   None dared to ope a friendly door, or lift a neighbor's latch,
+   Or shelter by a warm hearthstone beneath the homely thatch.
+
+  "Beside the lake in sweet Glenveigh, his tall white castle stands,
+   With battlement and tower high, fresh from the mason's hands;
+   It's built of ruined hearth stones, its cement is bitter tears,
+   It's a monument of infamy to all the future years,
+   He is written childless, for of his blood no heir
+   Shall inherit land or lordship from cruel John Adair.
+
+  "His cognizance the bloody hand has a wild meaning now,
+   It is pointing up for vengeance to Cain-like mark his brow,
+   It speaks of frantic hands that clasped the side posts of the door;
+   Pale lips that kissed the threshold they would cross, oh, never more.
+   The scattered stones of many homes, the desolated farms,
+   Shall mark with deeper red the hand upon his coat of arms.
+   The silver birches of Glenveigh when stirred by summer air
+   Shall whisper of the curse that hangs o'er cruel John Adair."
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+WHY THE RENT IS RAISED--THE HISTORY OF AN EVICTION FROM ONE OF THE
+EVICTED--A DONEGAL CONGREGATION--A CLIMB TO THE TOP OF DOONHILL--DOON
+HOLY WELL--MAKING THE BEST OF A STRANGER.
+
+
+In the silence of the night when sleep would not come, and when my
+imagination rehearsed over and over again sights I had seen and tales I
+had heard, I made an almost cast-iron resolution to escape to the estate
+of Stewart of Ards and have one letter filled up with the good deeds of
+a landlord. Alas for me! another storm, a rain storm, and a touch of
+neuralgia conspired to keep me "ben the house" in the little room upon
+the mountain side. One can weather snow or hail easier than a mountain
+rain storm. The rain is laden with half-melted snow, and the wind that
+drives it is terribly in earnest.
+
+It is one queer feature of this mountain scenery, the entire absence of
+trees. The hills look as if the face of the country had been shaved. Up
+the hill sides the little fields are divided off by high, broad stone
+fences, the result of gathering the stones out of the fields. The bog
+land to be reclaimed requires drains three feet deep every six feet of
+land.
+
+To trench up a little field into ridges six feet apart, to gather stones
+out of a little field sufficient to surround it with a four feet high
+stone fence, to grub out and burn whins, to make all the improvements
+with your own labor, and then to have your landlord come along with his
+valuator and say, "Your farm is worth double what you pay for it; I can
+get thirty shillings an acre for it," and to raise the rent to its full
+value, which you must pay or go out. This sort of thing is repeated, and
+repeated, in every variation of circumstances and of hardship, and the
+people submit and are, as a whole, quiet and law-abiding.
+
+I was called out of my little den to see a woman, one of the evicted
+tenants of Mr. Adair. She was on her way to Letterkenny to see her son,
+who is in the asylum since the eviction. It was hard enough to wander
+through the ruins and hear of the eviction scenes from others, but to
+sit by the turf fire and listen to one who had suffered and was
+suffering from this dreadful act, to see the recollection of it
+expressed in look and tone was different. This woman--husband dead, son
+in the asylum--was a decent-looking body in cloak and cap, with a
+bleached face and quiet voice.
+
+"We were all under sentence of eviction, but it was told to us that it
+was for squaring the farms. Then we were warned to pay in the half-
+year's rent. It was not due till May, and we had never been asked to pay
+the rent ahead of us before. But the landlord was a new one, and if he
+made a rule, why, we must obey him; so we scraped up and sold this and
+that and paid it. If we had known what was coming we might have kept it,
+and had a penny to turn to when we were out under the sky. It was to get
+the rent before he turned us out that he made that plan. We were put out
+in the beginning of April; our rent was paid up to May. Oh, I wish, I
+wish that he had driven us into the lake the day he put us out. A few
+minutes would have ended our trouble, but now when will it end! I have
+been through the country, my lady, and my boy in the asylum ever since."
+
+Went to the Catholic chapel up here in the mountains. It was quite
+convenient to my lodging. It is a very nice building with a new look. I
+was surprised to see such a fine building in the mountains, for, owing
+to the poverty of the people, there were no chapels at all in some
+places a little time ago. Mass was celebrated in _scalans_, a kind
+of open sheds, covered over head to protect the officiating priest from
+the weather, while the people clustered round in the open air. When I
+spoke of the nice appearance of the chapel I was told that the children
+of these hills scattered through the United States, Canada, New Zealand
+and Australia, had helped in its building. There were between seven and
+eight hundred people present. There were no seats on the floor of the
+chapel. I could not help admiring the patient, untiring devotion of
+these people, and the endurance that enabled them to kneel so long. The
+prevailing type of face is eminently Scottish, so is the tone of voice,
+and the names, Murrays, Andersons, and the like.
+
+Were it not for the altar and the absence of seats I could have imagined
+myself in a Glenelg Presbyterian congregation. The Irish spoken here,
+and it is spoken universally, has a good deal of resemblance to Glenelg
+Gaelic. I was surprised at how much I understood of the conversations
+carried on around me. The women, too, in their white caps, with their
+serious, devotional comely faces, reminded me of faces I have seen in
+dear old Glengarry.
+
+There were not half a dozen bonnets in the whole congregation--snow-
+white caps covered with a handkerchief for the matrons. They wore cloaks
+and shawls, and looked comfortable enough. I saw some decent blue cloth
+cloaks of a fashion that made me think they had served four generations
+at least. The lasses wore their own shining hair "streeling" down their
+backs or neatly braided up; abundant locks they had, brown color
+prevailing. Fresher, rosier, comelier girls than these mountain maidens
+it would be hard to find.
+
+The men's clothing, though poor, and in some instances patched in an
+artistic fashion, was scrupulously clean. In the congregation were some
+young men well dressed, bold and upright, whose bearing, cut of
+whiskers, and watch chains, showed that they had lived among our trans-
+Atlantic cousins of the great Republic.
+
+The priest of the hills is the one man whom these people trust. The
+prevailing type of landlord has been their enemy and oppressor. The
+priest has been friend, counsellor, sympathizer, helper, as well as
+clergyman, and so he is _soggarth aroon_.
+
+The storm continues at intervals. I get one clear, cold bit of fair
+weather to climb to the top of Doune hill, where the Ulster kings used
+to be crowned, a sugar-loaf shaped hill with the top broken off, rising
+in isolated grandeur up high enough to give one a breather to get to the
+top.
+
+The weather returned to its normal condition of storm, and I was shut up
+again. I became a little homesick, had the priest to tea, and enjoyed
+his conversation very much, but he had to go off in the storm on a sick
+call. A priest in these mountains has not the easiest kind of life in
+the world.
+
+Illusions took possession of my brain. I fancied myself a great queen,
+to say the least of it. A whisper got among the hills that a great
+American lady with unlimited power had come seeking the welfare of the
+country, and so any amount of deputations wafted on me. I will give a
+few specimens.
+
+Two men to see my lady in reference to a small still that had been
+misfortunately found on the place of an old man upward of eighty. He was
+fined L12, and would my lady do anything?
+
+Two women under sentence of eviction, my lady (I saw the place of one of
+these, the roof was on the floor, and a little shelter was in one corner
+like the lair of a wild beast, and here she kept possession in spite of
+the dreadful Captain Dopping; the agent). Would my lady send out their
+two daughters to America and place them in decent places?
+
+And here was old Roseen, old and miserable, without chick or child, or
+drop's blood belonging to her in the wide world, and would my lady
+remember her?
+
+Here's the crature of a widow from the mountain with four small
+children, and no man body to help her with the place, and not a four-
+footed beast on it belonging to her; all went in the scarcity; would my
+lady look to her a little, sure she was the neediest of all?
+
+And here was the poor cripple boy that his reverence was so good to,
+&c., &c., &c., in endless file.
+
+Nothing kept this over-dose of "my lady" from going to my head like
+Innishowen poteen, but the slenderness of my purse. Determined at last,
+warned by my fast-collapsing _portmonnaie_, to refuse to see any
+more deputations and keep ben-the-house strictly. A cry arose that
+Captain Dopping and his body-guard, on evictions bent, were coming up
+the hill. I rushed out, mounted a ditch of sods for one more look at the
+little tyrant of their fields. As I stood shading my eyes with my hand
+and looked across at the dreaded agent, a plaintive "my lady," bleated
+out at my side, drew my eyes down. It was a woman; she did not speak any
+more, but looked, and that look drew out my fast collapsing purse. I
+walked slowly into the house, determined to escape from the hills while
+I had the means left of escaping.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+THE JAUNTING CAR--SCENERY IN DONEGAL--MOUNTAIN PASTURES--A VISIT TO
+GLENVEIGH CASTLE.
+
+
+I have returned to pleasant Ramelton, and will write my visit to
+Glenveigh Castle from here. This town will always be a place of
+remembrance to me on account of the Christian kindness, sympathy,
+encouragement and counsel which I have received in it.
+
+It was my great good fortune to get an introduction to Mr. and Miss
+McConnell, a brother and sister, who are merchants in this place. They
+are of the stock of the Covenanters, a people who have left the stamp of
+their individuality on the piety of the North of Ireland. Sufferers
+themselves from Lord Leitrim's tyranny and greed, they sympathize with
+other sufferers, and sympathize with me in my work to a greater extent
+than any others since I left home. I can say with feeling, I was a
+stranger and they took me in.
+
+I have been driven in many directions sight-seeing in their cosy little
+pony carriage. It is a nice little two-wheeled affair. I believe the
+orthodox name of it is a croydon. It carries four, who sit back to back,
+while the back seat turns up when not wanted. It was in quite a
+different trap that I rode in on my visit to Glenveigh. During my
+journey there we talked, my guide and I, of what constitutes a good
+landlord. It was a negative sort of goodness which he expected from the
+good landlord--"that he would not harry the tenants with vexatious
+office rules; that he would let them alone on their places so long as
+they paid their rent; that he would not raise the rent so that all grown
+on the land would be insufficient to pay it." Since the Land League
+agitation some landlords have granted a reduction of rents, and some
+have even given a bag of potatoes for seed as a gift to the poorer
+tenants.
+
+The road to the new castle leads through scenery of grand mountain
+solitudes, treeless, houseless and silent. Our road wound in a
+serpentine fashion among the mountains. The drains that regularly score
+the foggy mountain sides produce a queer effect on the landscape.
+
+As we wound along the serpentine road nearing the castle, the hills
+seemed to get wilder and more solemn. No trace of human habitations, no
+sound of human life, treeless, bare, silent mountains, wastes of black
+bog, rocks rising up till their solemn heads brushed the sky,--Irish
+giants in ragged cloaks of heather.
+
+At last we came in sight of Loughveigh lying cradled among the rocks,
+and got a glimpse of the white tower of Glenveigh Castle. There is a
+small skirting of wood near the castle where the silver barked birch
+prevails from which the glen takes its name, interspersed with holly
+trees, which grow here in profusion, and some dark yews, prim and
+stately, drawn up like sentinels to guard the demesne.
+
+No place could be imagined more utterly alone than Glenveigh Castle. The
+utter silence which Mr. Adair has created seems to wrap the place in an
+invisible cloak of awfulness that can be felt. Except a speculative rook
+or a solitary crane sailing solemnly toward the mountain top, I saw no
+sign of life in all the glen. Owing to the windings of the road it
+seemed quite a while after we sighted the top of the tower before we
+entered the avenue which sweeps round the edge of the lake shore, and
+finally brought us to the castle. The castle stands on a point
+stretching out into the lake. Opposite, on the other side of the lake, a
+steep, bare, dark rock rises up to the dizzy height. It is the kind of
+rock that makes one think of fortified castles, and cities built for
+defence, that ought to be perched on a summit, but Glenveigh Castle
+should be a lady's bower, instead of a fortalice. Behind the castle the
+mountain slopes are clothed with young trees. The castle itself is a
+very imposing building from the outside; grand, strong, rather
+repellant; inside it has a comfortless; ill-planned, unfinished
+appearance. The mantel-piece of white marble with the Adair arms carved
+on it--the bloody hand, the motto _valor au mort_, the supporters
+two angels--lies in the hall cracked in two. A very respectable
+Scotchman, a keeper, I suppose, showed me over the building. He must
+enjoy a very retired life there, for in all the country for miles there
+is not a human habitation except the police barrack that looms up like a
+tall ghost at the other end of the lake.
+
+As we drove home through the mountains I noticed that Mukish wrapped
+herself in the misty folds of her veil. Soon after the storm rolled down
+the mountain sides and chased us home.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+GOOD-BYE TO RAMELTON--ON LOUGH SWILLY--A RUINED LANDLORD--FARM STOCK VS.
+WAGES--A GOOD LANDLORD--A REMINDER OF CANADA--MOVILLE--PORT-A-DORUS
+ROCKS--ON GOOD TERMS WITH THE LANDLORD.
+
+
+Left Ramelton at seven o'clock Monday morning, April 4th, the hoar-
+frost lying white on the deck of the little steamer. The cabin was black
+with smoke that would not consent to go in the way it should go, so one
+had to be content with the chill morning, the hoar frost and the deck.
+
+We steamed up past the town of Rathmullen with the two deserted forts
+grinning at one another.
+
+Two women of the small farming class were, like myself, sitting close to
+the machinery to get warm. They were gravely discussing the value of a
+wonderful goose owned by one of them. I do not think the owner of a fast
+horse could go into greater raptures or more minute description of his
+good points than these two ladies did about the goose. One declared that
+she had been offered eight shillings ($2) for the goose and had refused
+it. This is one proof of the high figure at which all animals, birds and
+beasts, common to a farm are held. Although this goose was exceptionally
+valuable, yet a goose is worth five shillings or $1.25.
+
+A laborer's wages is two shillings, without food, so it would take him
+two and a half days' work to earn a goose, a day's work to earn a hen or
+a duck, fifteen days' work to earn a suckling pig, nearly four months to
+buy the cheapest cow; always considering that he has food to support him
+while so earning. I have heard poor men blamed for not raising stock.
+When the price of stock is considered, and that a small field for
+grazing purposes is rented at L8, I confess I wonder that any poor man
+has a cow. If he has, butter is now thirty cents per pound in this
+locality, and a cow is therefore very valuable.
+
+Before I leave bonnie Ramelton behind altogether, I must say that it has
+been in the past fortunate in a landlord. Old Sir Annesly Stewart, lord
+of this fair domain at one time, invariably advised his tenants who
+purposed to build houses, to secure titles first, saying, "Do not trust
+to me, I am an old man and will soon pass away: who knows what manner of
+man may succeed me? I will give a free farm grant, equivalent to
+guarantee deed, I am told, to anyone wanting to build." So the owners of
+houses in Ramelton pay ground rent, while at Milford, Kilmacrennan and
+Creaslach the strong hand has seized the tenants' houses without
+compensation. It is said that the present owner of old Sir Annesly's
+estate, who is not a lineal descendant, however, feels as Bunyan
+describes the two giants to feel, who can grin and gnash their teeth,
+but can do no more.
+
+All this and more I hear, as the sun comes up and the frost disappears,
+and we sail over bright waters. One might enjoy sailing over Lough
+Swilly, the whole of a long summer day. Everything pleasant comes to an
+end, and we land at Fahan, and while waiting for the train my attention
+is drawn to the fair island of Inch, with its fields running up the
+mountain side, and the damp black rocks through which the railway has
+cut its way at Fahan. The train comes along, and we go whirling on past
+Inch, Burnfoot Bridge, and into Derry. A Presbyterian doctor of divinity
+is in our compartment, and some well-to-do farmers' wives, and again and
+yet again the talk is of the land and the landlords. Instance after
+instance of oppression and wrong is gone over.
+
+But Derry reached, I must say good-bye to some agreeable travelling
+companions, and take the mail car to Moville for a tour round
+Innishowen; Innishowen, celebrated for its poteen; Innishowen, sung
+about in song, told about in story.
+
+  "God bless the dark mountains of brave Donegal,
+   God bless royal Aielich, the pride of them all--
+   She sitteth for ever a queen on her throne,
+   And smiles on the valleys of green Innishowen.
+   A race that no traitor or tyrant has known
+   Inhabits the valleys of green Innishowen."
+
+From Derry to Moville is, as usual, lovely--lovely with a loveliness of
+its own. Fine old trees, singly, in groups, in thick plantations;
+beautiful fields; level clipped hedges; flowers springing everywhere,
+under the hedges, in little front gardens, up the banks. The land is
+dreadfully overrun with gentry's residences fair enough to the eye, some
+of them very beautiful, but one gets to wonder, if the land is so poor
+that it is spueing out its inhabitants, what supports all these?
+
+The wide Lough Foyle is in sight of the road most of the way, and a sea-
+bound steamer carries me away in thought to Canada. The air is nipping
+enough to choke sentiment in the bud. It is bitter cold, and I have the
+windward side of the car, and shiver at the nodding daffodils in
+blooming clumps at every cottage as we pass along. There are some waste
+unreclaimed fields, and the tide is out as we drive along, so that long
+stretches of bare blue mud, spotted with eruptions of sea weed, fit well
+with the cold wind that is enjoying a cutting sweep at us. Then we come
+again to trim gardens and ivy garnished walls. The road follows the
+curves of the Lough, and we watch the black steamers ploughing along,
+and the brown-sailed little boats scudding before the breeze.
+
+The Lough is on one side, and a remarkable, high steep ridge on the
+other, yellow with budded whins, green with creeping ivy, and up on the
+utmost ridge a row of plumed pines. When I noticed their tufted tops
+standing out against the sky, I felt like saying, "Hurrah! hurrah for
+Canada!" the pines did look so Canadian looking. I soon was recalled to
+realize that I was in my own green Erin, and certainly it is with a cold
+breath she welcomes her child back again.
+
+We knew we were nearing Moville: we saw it on a distant point stretching
+out into the Lough. I forgot to mention that the land began to be full
+of castles as we drove along the road. We passed Red Castle and White
+Castle and when we reached Moville, Green Castle was before us a few
+miles further down. Further down I wished to go, for a very distant
+relative was expecting me there--Mr. Samuel Sloan, formerly of the Royal
+Artillery, who had charge of Green Castle Fort for years; but now has
+retired, and lives on his own property. I like people to claim kindred
+with me; I like a hearty welcome, the _Cead mille faille ghud_,
+that takes you out of hotel life and makes you feel at home. I was so
+welcomed by my distant kinsman and his excellent wife that I felt very
+reluctant to turn out again to hotel life.
+
+Next day after my arrival we got a car and made an excursion down along
+the coast to Port-a-dorus. I thought I had seen rocks before, but these
+rocks are a new variety to me. They occur so suddenly that they are a
+continual surprise. Along the coast, out in the water, they push up
+their backs in isolated heaps like immense hippopotami lying in the
+water, or petrified sharks with only a tall serrated back fin visible.
+There would occur a strip of bare brown sand, and outside of that row
+upon row of sharp, thin, jagged rocks like the jaw teeth of pre-Adamite
+monsters. In other places they were piled on one another in such a
+sudden way, grass growing in the crevices, ivy creeping over them, the
+likeness of broken towers and ruined battlements, that one could hardly
+believe but that they were piled there by some giant race.
+
+When we had driven as far as the car could go we left car and driver,
+and scrambled over the rocks like goats. Rocks frowned above us, between
+us and the sky, rocks all round in black confusion. As we climbed from
+slippery rock to slippery rock, over long leathery coils of thick sea
+weed, like serpents, on, on through the _Dorus_ to the open sea,
+noticing the dark passages, the gloomy caves, the recesses among the
+cliffs, the narrow passes, where one could turn to bay and keep off
+many, it was natural to think of rebels skulking here, with a price on
+their heads, after the '98, or of lawless people stilling illicit
+_poteen_ to hide it from the gaugers. Sheltered by the rocks of
+Port-a-dorus, I could enjoy the sea air flavored with essence of sea
+weed. We watched for a while the waves playing about the rocks and
+washing through the door in innocent gambols. This sportfulness did not
+impose upon me nor the rocks either, for the marks of the Atlantic in a
+rage were graven on their brows in baldness and in wrinkles.
+
+Along the road as we drove back I noticed the white cottages of coast
+guardsmen who have married the maidens of the hills. They were there in
+their patches of ground, delving with the spade, scattering sea weed
+manure, the landlords here allowing them to gather all the sea weed that
+drifts to their shores. Decent looking men these, in their blue uniforms
+and thoughtful sea-beaten faces, with hardy little children around them,
+playing or helping. The rocks rise among the fields with the same
+startling abruptness as they do along the shore, looking still more like
+ruins of old castles. Round these rocks and among them, in every nook
+and cranny where there is a spadeful of earth, is delved carefully by
+these mountain husbandmen.
+
+As I looked at the rocks and crags, and the workers among them, I could
+hardly help thinking they dearly earned all that grew upon them,
+although there would be no half-yearly rent hanging over them. In one
+little clearing some children were scattering manure. One, a sturdy
+little maiden, but a mere baby of about seven years of age, had a fork
+cut down to suit her size, and was handling it with infantile vigor,
+laying about her with great vim. It was such a comical sight that we
+stopped the car to watch her. As soon as she saw she was watched, she
+dropped the fork and scampered off to hide. A pretty little child, hardy
+and healthy and nimble as a goat.
+
+Of course on this coast there are tall, white light houses, two of them
+keeping guard over the rocks. Here and there are coast guard stations,
+white and barrack-like, only holding blue jackets instead of red or
+green.
+
+The tenants along here praised their landlords. One of them, the Marquis
+of Donegal, was spoken of as a merciful lord all through the hard years.
+He had forgiven them rent which they could not pay, and lowered the rent
+when they did pay, returning them some of the money, and the poor people
+spoke of him with warm gratitude.
+
+I notice that the people here have a good many sheep. They are not so
+very wretched as the mountaineers I saw in northern Donegal. Poor they
+must be, to dig out a living from among these rocks and keep up a lord
+besides, but their lord has had a more human heart toward them than
+other lords over whose lands I have been.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+GREEN CASTLE--A LOOK INTO THE FORT--THE OLD AND THE NEW--MARS IN
+WAITING--A KIND WORD FOR THE LANDLORDS--IN TIME FOR AN EVICTION--FEMALE
+LAND LEAGUERS--THE "STUPID" IRISH--THE POLICE.
+
+
+Went on an exploring expedition to the ruins of Green Castle. One
+authority told me it had been the castle of the chief of the clan
+Doherty, once ruling lord here in the clannish times. Another equally
+good authority told me it was built by De Burgo in the sixteenth century
+to hold the natives in awe. Whoever built it, the pride of its strength
+and the dread of its power have passed away forever. It is a very
+extensive ruin and covers a large tract of ground. It looks as if three
+solid, high, square buildings were set, not very regularly, end to end,
+the outer wall of one built in a semi-circle, and towers raised at every
+corner and every irregularity of the wall. Of course the roof was on the
+floor, turrets and towers have lost part of their height and stand, rent
+and ragged, tottering to their fall.
+
+A good deal is said about the Norman style of arch and the Saxon style
+of arch found in old buildings. I am convinced that the arches of Green
+Castle, and its architecture generally, had been formed on the pattern
+of the rocks at Port-a-dorus and the other heaps along the coast. The
+same massiveness, the same wedge-like stones piled together to form
+arches prevail in both.
+
+Seaward the castle sits on a steep rock, like the rock on which Quebec
+sits for height, but cleaner scarped, and more inaccessible I should
+think. To stand on the shore and look up, the castle seems perched on a
+dizzy height, its ruined battlements and broken towers rising up into
+the sky. The pretty green ivy forms a kindly hap and a garment of
+beauty, both for rock and ruin. Long live the ivy green.
+
+There is a clean, smooth new fort standing beside the ruined old castle
+like a prosperous, solid, closely-shaven, modern gentleman beside
+dilapidated nobility. Its fat, broad tower looks strong enough and solid
+enough and grim enough for anything. Inside of the fort everything is
+clean, regular and orderly, as becomes a place under the care of British
+soldiers. The house, or quarters I suppose they should be called, are
+clean and bright, whitewashed (I almost said pipe-clayed), to the
+highest point of perfection. There are fortifications above
+fortifications here, and plenty of cannon pointed at an imaginary foe.
+There are cannon balls in scientific heaps waiting to be despatched on
+errands of destruction. Long may they wait.
+
+I saw the outside of the magazine, cased over with so many feet--oh, a
+great number--of solid masonry, padded over that with a great many feet
+of earth, containing a fabulous amount of powder--tons and tons of it.
+Saw also the slippers which the worshippers of Mars put upon their
+martial feet when they enter into his temple--slippers without a
+suspicion of shod, hob nail or sparable, with which the heels of the
+worshippers of Ceres in this country are armed. If any one of these
+intruded on this domain sacred to Mars, he would in his indignation gift
+them with the feathered heels of Mercury and send them off with an
+abrupt message for the stars.
+
+Had a great desire to go up to the top of the great tower and see what
+could be seen from it. I was informed, delicately, that in these
+disturbed times it was not thought best to admit strangers. The lonely
+martello tower on the opposite sands was pointed out to me, sitting
+mistress of desolations in the shadow of the rocks of MacGilligan. I was
+informed of the money's worth of pile work, thousands upon thousands of
+pounds sterling, on which this ugly and useless tower is sitting. As I
+walked around the outside of the fort landward and seaward, I think it
+quite possible to take it. I make this spiteful remark because I did not
+get into the tower.
+
+On the opposite shores of the lough at the inland end of the range that
+rose above and behind the martello tower where it slopes down, I saw the
+rocky figure of a woman, gigantic, solemn, sitting with her hands on her
+knees looking southward. Looking for what--for the slowly approaching
+time of peace, plenty and prosperity, of tardy justice and kindly
+appreciation? The cost of tower and fort would give Innishowen a peasant
+proprietary, loyal, grateful and loving, that would bulwark the lough
+with their breasts. Burns is true--a patriotic, virtuous populace forms
+the best "wall of fire around our much-loved isle."
+
+It is not easy to get up and leave Green Castle, and the friends there
+who made me feel so pleasantly at home; but hearing of evictions that
+were to take place away in the interior of Innishowen, I bid a reluctant
+good-bye to Mr. and Mrs. Sloan at Green Castle, and hiring a special car
+set off in the direction of Carndonagh. The road lies between mountains.
+The valley through which the road threads its way is varied enough; in
+parts bog of the wildest, and barren-looking fields sloping up to as
+barren, rocky mountains in their tattered covering of heather, black in
+its wintry aspect as yet--mountain behind mountain looking over one
+another's shoulders ever so many deep with knitted brows, wrinkled into
+deep gullies. One of these mountains (Sliabh Sneach, snow mountain)
+deserves its name; snowy is its cap, and snow lingers in the scarred
+recesses running down its shoulders. We passed fair, carefully cultured
+farms and farm houses, spotlessly white under the shade of trees. Other
+farms meeting these ran up far on the mountain side. The white houses,
+with which the mountain sides are plentifully dotted over, show very
+plainly, and are rather bare-looking and unsheltered among the dark
+heather. There are more dwellings on the same space in Innishowen among
+the hills than in the parts of the Donegal mountains where I have been.
+The people seem better off and more contented. Many of them have a kind
+word for their landlords.
+
+In no part of Innishowen that I saw is the same wretchedness and misery
+apparent as I saw in "northern Donegal." There is, there must be a less
+crushing set of office rules. As an instance of this, the car driver
+informed me that the high, utterly heath-clad mountains were allowed to
+the people for pasturage, with very little if anything to pay. This
+accounts for the number of sheep I saw trotting about with lambs at
+their feet, twins being the rule and even triplets far from uncommon. My
+informant told me that lambs in early autumn were worth from thirty-five
+shillings to two pounds when fit to kill. I thought this a fabulous
+price, but it was confirmed to me by a cattle dealer on the train from
+Derry to Limavady. If a small farmer had many lambs to sell, he would
+have material help in making up the rent. My driver had three acres of
+land; he told me if he owned it out and out, after he got it paid for,
+he could lived comfortably. He had two horses and a car, and let out his
+car for hire. I considered that if he got much call for his car he might
+do that--a special car for four or five miles costing $1.25, and if the
+driver is a hired man he often depends on his chance, so there must be
+25 cents for him also.
+
+It is very necessary, if one wants to see anything of the country to get
+off regular routes at regular times, so posting becomes a necessity.
+
+Suddenly we became aware of a great crowd assembled at a group of small
+houses a little off the public road, and turned our horse's head in that
+direction. There were a great many cars--well there might be, for there
+were seventy police on the ground, under the command of a police officer
+named McLeod. There was an immense crowd of people, who were entirely
+unarmed, not even a shillelagh among them; but if knitted brows and
+flashing eyes mean anything, there were men there capable, if any
+incident set pent-up rage free, to imitate the men of Harlech, who, with
+plaided breasts, encountered mail clad men. A large proportion of the
+crowd were women and girls, for there is a flourishing branch of the
+Ladies' Land League here.
+
+The tenants to be evicted were, some of them, tenants of the Rev.
+William Crawford. I was told by what seemed good authority that the
+tenants did not owe much rent, but were pressed just now to punish them
+for joining the Land League. It was believed that the tenants were able
+to pay, but there was a strike against what they believed exorbitant
+rent. The evictions were to demonstrate the landlord's power to compel
+them to pay. There was a great crowd.
+
+The policemen were formed in fours, and the crowd howled and hooted as
+they proceeded to the first house, McCallion's. The policemen took up a
+position convenient to the house, and a few were stationed at the door.
+The under sheriff was on the spot.
+
+The little cottage was neat and tidy, white-washed of course. I was not
+inside; I did not like to go; those who were said it was very clean and
+neat. A room with a few ornaments, a table and some chairs, and a
+kitchen with its dresser and table, and a few chairs and stools. The
+rent was L14 6s. The tenant stated that he objected to pay the rent on
+account of it being too high. The family were sad-looking, but were very
+quiet. A paper was presented to him to sign, acknowledging himself a
+tenant at will, and promising to give up the holding on demand; on
+signing the paper, he got a respite of six months.
+
+The crowd then went to the house of James McCauley, when the same form
+was gone through and the same respite granted.
+
+The next house was John Carruthers'. Here the crowd were very much
+excited, the women screeched, the men howled, and the poor constabulary
+came in for unlimited hooting.
+
+The next place was the joint residence of Owen and Denis Quigley, joint
+tenants of a little patch. The cottage is in a gulley on the mountain
+side, about a mile of crooks and turns from John Carruthers' house. The
+crowd was very large that was gathered round the door. As the police
+came up how they did howl! How they did shout, "Down with Harvey (the
+agent), and the Land League for ever." Some of the women declared
+themselves willing to die for their country.
+
+Another man was evicted, a tenant of Mr. Hector McNeil. The rent here
+was L22 3s and the valuation L18 10s. Like the rest he said he could not
+pay it because it was too high.
+
+At the next place a young lady Land Leaguer delivered a speech--Mary
+McConigle, a rather pretty young girl. Her speech was a good deal of
+fiery invective, withering sarcasm and chaff for the police, who winced
+under it, poor fellows, and would have preferred something they could
+defend themselves from--bayonets, for instance--to the forked lightning
+that shot from the tongue and eyes of this female agitator. Whatever
+would be the opinion of critics about it, Mary McConigle voiced the
+sentiments of the people and was cheered by the men and kissed by the
+women. There were a good many speeches made at different times.
+
+Father Bradley, a tall, sallow young priest with a German jaw, square
+and strong and firm, spoke very well, swaying his hearers like oats
+before the wind. He praised them, he sympathized with them, he
+encouraged them, putting golden hopes for the future just a little way
+ahead of them, but through it all ran a thread of good advice to them to
+be self-restrained and law-abiding. I think I rather admired Father
+Bradley and his speech. I had a little conversation with him afterward.
+He said the lands were really rented too high, too high to leave for the
+cultivator of the soil anything but bare subsistence in the best of
+years; and when bad years followed one another, or in cases of sickness
+coming to the head of the family, want sat down with them at once.
+
+Mr. Cox, the representative of the Land League, was also there, and made
+a speech. He and some gentlemen of the press arrived in a car with
+tandem horses. Such grandeur impressed upon the people the belief that
+they were connected with law and landlords, so, in enquiring the way,
+they found the people very simple and ignorant. When they came where
+roads met they were at a loss to know how to proceed, and a countryman
+whom they interrogated was both lame and stupid; when he knew, however,
+who Mr. Cox was, he recovered the use of his limbs and brightened up in
+his intellect in a truly miraculous manner. There were other speeches
+during the forenoon of the evictions from Father O'Kane, the gentle
+little priest of Moville, Mr. McClinchy, the Poor Law Guardian, and
+others.
+
+The greatest success of the day as to speech-making was, after all, the
+speech of Mary McConigle, to judge of its present effect--no one else
+was kissed. The gist of most of the speeches which I heard, or heard of,
+was, advising to hope, to firmness, to stand shoulder to shoulder, and a
+counsel to be law-abiding, wrapped up in a little discreet blarney.
+
+As we drove away in the direction of Carndonagh we passed on the way a
+wing of the Ladies' Land League, marching home in procession two and
+two. A goodly number of bareheaded sonsie lasses, wrapped in the
+inevitable shawl; rather good-looking, healthy and rosy-cheeked were
+they, with their hair snooded back, and gathered into braids sleek and
+shining. Brown is the prevailing color of hair among the Irish girls in
+the four counties I have partly passed through. These Land League
+maidens reminded me of other processions of ladies which I have seen
+marching in the temperance cause. They were half shame-faced, half
+laughing, clinging to one another as if gathering their courage from
+numbers.
+
+Carndonagh, which we reached at last, is another clean, excessively
+whitewashed little town, straggling up a side hill, with any amount of
+mountains looming up in the near distance.
+
+A little after we arrived the Carndonagh contingent of the police on
+duty at the evictions came driving in, horses and men both having a
+wilted look. The drivers came in for some abuse as they took their
+horses out of the cars on the street. One old man could not at all
+express what he felt, though he tried hard to do so, and screeched
+himself hoarse in the attempt.
+
+The police, as they alighted down off the cars, made for their barracks--
+a tall white house standing sentry at a corner. As one entered, a
+little child toddled out to meet him with outstretched arms. He stopped
+to kiss and pet the child, looking fatherly and human. I am sure the
+little kiss was sweet and welcome after the howls and hoots of the crowd
+and the sarcastic eloquence of Miss McConigle. I pity the police; they
+are under orders which they have to obey. I have never heard that they
+have delighted in doing their odious duty harshly, and the bitter
+contempt of the people is, I am sure, hard to bear.
+
+
+
+
+XIV.
+
+THE PEASANTRY--DEARTH OF CAR DRIVERS--A PRESBYTERIAN MINISTER'S OPINION
+OF THE LAND LAWS--PADDY'S LAZINESS--ILLICIT WHISKEY.
+
+
+After dinner at Cardonagh, went down to the establishment of Mrs. Binns,
+an outlying branch of the great factory of Mr. Tillie, of Derry. Saw the
+indoor workers, many in number and as busy as bees. Some of them were
+very, very young. Mrs. Binns informed me that the times were harder in
+this part of the country than a mere passer-by would ever suspect; that
+the clothing to be worn when going out was so carefully kept, from the
+ambition to look decent, that they appeared respectable, while at the
+same time sorely pinched for food. The employment given in this factory
+is all that stands between many households and actual want. The machines
+here are not run by steam, but by foot power. I noticed weary limbs that
+were beating time to work! work! work! Mrs. Binns, a kind motherly
+woman, spoke earnestly of the industry, trustworthiness, self-denial,
+loyal affection for parents, and general kindliness that characterized
+the Irish peasantry.
+
+This testimony to the qualities of the Roman Catholic peasantry has been
+the universal testimony of every employer who spoke to me on the
+subject. I have met with those who spoke of the native Irish, as they
+spoke of the poor of every persuasion, as lazy, shiftless and
+extravagant. These people talked from an outside view, and looked down
+from a certain height upon their poorer neighbors. Invariably I found
+the most favorable testimony from those who came into nearest contact
+with these people. As far as personal danger is concerned, having
+neither power nor inclination to oppress the poor of my people, I feel
+free to walk through the most disturbed districts as safely as in the
+days of Brian Boru.
+
+To come back from that stately king down the centuries to the present
+time, I had intended to go from Carndonagh to Malin, and afterward to
+Buncrana, and from thence to Derry, having nearly gone round Innishowen.
+But this was not to be. Regular mail cars did not run on the days or in
+the direction in which I wished to go. I deliberated with myself a
+little, heard the comments of the people on the events of the day--the
+regrets that a greater force had not gathered and a greater
+demonstration been made. The women especially who had been forced to
+remain at home on the occasion of to-day regretted it very much. My car-
+man must return home to plough on the morrow; could not by any means go
+any further with his car just at present. I do think he is afraid.
+Another car in this little place is not to be had in the present state
+of police demand, for they are going out for further evictions on the
+morrow.
+
+I retained the car and driver I had brought with me, and returned to
+Moville. My driver, a rather timid lad, told me he would not like to
+drive the police to these evictions and then return after dark the same
+way; he would be afraid. He would not drive the police, he said, on any
+account; he thought it wrong to do so. I noticed that, on pretence of
+showing me more of the country, he brought me back to Moville another
+way. Whether he thought I was likely to be taken for Mrs. Doherty, of
+Redcastle, who was one of the evicting landholders at the present time,
+or only for a suspicious character, I cannot say.
+
+I was very glad afterward that I had not been able to carry out my
+original intention of going to Malin, for some of the evictions there
+were of a most painful character. It was better that I was spared the
+sight. In the case of a Mr. Whittington, whose residence, once the
+finest in that locality, is now sorely dilapidated, his wife, with a new
+born babe in her arms, and a large family of little children around her,
+were evicted. Is there not something very wrong when such things can be?
+Of course, when the bailiff carried out the furniture to the the
+roadside he was jeered and hooted at.
+
+All the sympathy of the press is on the side of the landlords, and none
+but the very poor, who have suffered themselves, have pity, except of a
+very languid kind, for scenes such as this.
+
+There are evictions and harassments flying about, as thick as a flight
+of sparrows through Innishowen at present.
+
+At Moville I had the pleasure of an interview with the Rev. Mr. Bell,
+the Presbyterian minister of that place. He has studied the subject of
+the land laws in general and as they affected his own people in
+particular. Mr. Bell admits that there is great injustice perpetrated
+under the Land Law as it stands; that the Land Law of 1870 gave relief
+in many instances, and was intended to give more, but that numerous
+clauses in the bill made it possible to evade it, and it was evaded by
+unscrupulous men in many cases. "The necessity of a large measure of
+land reform, we admit," he says; "we must get this by constitutional
+means. Real wrongs must be redressed by agitating lawfully,
+persistently, continually and patiently, till they are redressed
+constitutionally. We must remain steadfast and never give in, but never
+transgress the law in any case or take it into our own hands. The
+Parnell agitation goes beyond this, and when they travel out of the safe
+path of using constitutional means, into something that leads to
+confiscation of property and robbery of landlords, and a concealed
+purpose, or only half concealed, of separation from England, we cannot
+follow them there."
+
+Mr. Bell instanced many cases of gradual prosperity and attainment of
+wealth among his flock, but they were exceptional cases, and there were
+better farms in the case for one thing, and leasehold tenure for
+another, combining with their industry and thrift to account for the
+success.
+
+I had conversation with another gentleman of this congregation, who,
+like many others, believed firmly in Paddy's laziness and carelessness
+at home. I am very tired of these statements, for any one can see the
+thrifty way mountain sides, scraps amid rocks, strips of land inside the
+railway fences, and every spade breadth is cultivated. It is not fair
+for a man who has means to judge a poorer man from the outside view of
+his case. There was a strange inconsistency in this gentleman's
+opinions, for while he declared laziness to be the cause of poverty and
+not the oppression of rent raised above value, yet when peasant
+proprietorship was mentioned as a remedy, he declared he would not take
+the farms as a gift and try to raise a living out of them.
+
+I heard some lament the prevalence of stilling illicit whiskey in
+Innishowen. The excuse for doing so was to raise money for help in the
+prevailing poverty. They said the manufacture on the hills, whiskey
+being so easy to be had, nourished drinking customs among men and women
+alike, and what was made one way was lost one hundred-fold in another. A
+priest, recently deceased, a certain Father Elliott, had devoted talents
+of no mean order and great loving-kindness to the work of stemming this
+great evil. At his funeral there were between three and four thousand
+members of the temperance bands, which were the fruit of his labors. He
+died of typhus fever, and I heard his name mentioned with respectful
+regret by all creeds and classes.
+
+
+
+
+XV.
+
+A GLIMPSE INTO THE PAST--THE DERRY OF TO-DAY--PURCHASING TENANT
+RIGHTS--NIBBLING AT THE TENANT RIGHT--INSTANCES OF HARDSHIP--"LIBERTY OF
+CONTRACT."
+
+
+At Moville I heard that there were some who had become peasant
+proprietors by purchasing out and out their holdings, and that they had
+bitterly repented of so doing; for they had tied a millstone about their
+necks. I was advised to go to Limavady and see the Rev. Mr. Brown, who
+had made the purchase for these people, and knew how the bargain was
+turning out.
+
+I was still at Moville. I was to return to Derry by boat, a much
+preferable mode of travelling to the post car. I mistook the wharf.
+There are two, one hid away behind some houses, one at the Coast Guard
+Station standing out boldly into the water. I walked over to the most
+conspicuous wharf and had the pleasure of hearing the starting bell ring
+behind me, and seeing the Derry boat glide from behind the sheltering
+houses and sail peacefully away up the Foyle like a black swan. Why do
+they paint all the steamers black in this green Erin of ours? Well, as
+my belongings were on board, there was no help for it but to take a
+special car and go after my luggage, a long, cold drive to Derry. So
+much for being stupid.
+
+I have been in Derry for some time. At different times I have tried to
+admire it, and it is worthy of admiration; but some way it is a little
+difficult to think up thoughts as one ought to think them. Thoughts will
+not come to order. Besides, Derry "is an old tale and often told."
+
+Still, it is an event in one's life to go round the old Derry walls.
+Owing to the kindness of Mr. Black, I have had that sensation. The
+gateways, without gates now of course, look like the arches of a bridge,
+and the walls like streets hung up out of the way. When one looks
+through a loop hole or over a parapet, there does a faint remembrance
+come up, like a ghost, of the stirring times that have wrapped
+themselves in the mist of years, and slid back into the past. I stood
+over the gates--this one and that one--trying to look down the Foyle
+toward the point where the ships lay beyond the boom, and to fancy the
+feelings of the stout-hearted defenders of Derry, as they watched with
+hungry eyes, and waited with sinking hearts but unflinching courage on
+the relief that the infamous Colonel Kirk kept lying, a tantalizing
+spectacle, inactive, making no effort of succor. But the houses are
+thick outside the walls, and shut up the view and choke sentiment. Of
+course I was in the cathedral, and looked at the rich memorial windows
+that let in subdued light into the religious gloom. Saw the shell which
+was thrown over with terms of capitulation, sitting in a socket on a
+pillar in the cathedral like a dove on its nest. It might tell a tale of
+what it saw in its flight through the air from one grim bank to the
+other, but it maintains a blank silence.
+
+Of course I looked up at Walker on his monument, and went home to read
+Professor Witherow's book on the siege, which was kindly presented to me
+by Mr. Black, and to listen to people who scruple not to say that the
+monument, like the London monument of the great fire as described by
+Pope,
+
+  "Like a tall bully lifts its head and lies."
+
+The moderns are plucking some of the feathers of glory from the wings
+fame gave to Walker. That is the way the fame of one generation is
+served by another.
+
+Derry seems a very prosperous old maid, proud of her past, proud of her
+present. The great industry of Derry is shirt making. Was over the
+largest factory, that of Mr. Tillie, whose branch factory I saw at
+Carndonagh. This factory employs about twelve hundred hands. These work
+people were more respectably dressed than any operatives I have seen in
+Ireland. They all wore bonnets or hats; the mill people at Gilford and
+Ballymena went bareheaded or with a shawl thrown over the head. In the
+present woeful depression of the linen trade, it is cheering to look at
+this busy hive of industry. The shirts are cut out by machinery, the
+button holes are machine made and the machines are run by steam, a great
+relief to the operatives. This industry has prospered in Mr. Tillie's
+hands. He is also a landed proprietor. His own residence, Duncreggan, is
+very beautiful, and the grounds about it are laid out in fine taste.
+
+There are now many other factories in Derry, but this is the largest.
+There was an effort to begin ship-building here, but it was defeated by
+the parsimony of the London companies, which are extensive landlords in
+Derry, and would not give a secure title to the necessary land; so
+Belfast is the gainer and Derry the loser by so much.
+
+Was a Sunday in Derry. She has got faithful watchmen on her spiritual
+walls. Visited a large living Sabbath-school in connection with Mr.
+Rodgers' church. Had the privilege of a class, and found that the little
+maidens had an appreciative knowledge of their Bibles. I hear that there
+is considerable religious earnestness in Derry, especially among the
+young men.
+
+From Derry I ran down to Limavady to have an interview with the Rev. Mr.
+Brown anent the purchases made by tenants and how they were getting
+along afterward. Went down in the evening train. Behold, there was no
+room for me in the inn, and there was no other hotel in the little town.
+This was not so pleasant. Had a letter of introduction to a person in
+the town; made a voyage of discovery; found out his residence, and he
+was not at home. Obtained a guide and went to the Rev. Mr. Brown's--a
+good _bittie_ out in the environs; found him just stepping on a car
+to leave for a tenant right meeting. Got a recommendation from him to a
+private house where I might, could, would or should get accommodation
+for the night, and made an appointment with Mr. Brown for the morrow.
+
+I may here remark that the residence of the Rev. Mr. Brown is both
+commodious and elegant. As a rule the ministry are comfortably and even
+stylishly housed in the North.
+
+The next day had an interview with Mr. Brown, a frank, able and
+communicative man. Under his agency the people had bargained for a part
+of the Waterford property from the Marquis of that ilk. "The Marquis was
+a good and generous landlord; all his family, the Beresfords, were good
+landlords." I had heard that said before. There were reasons why the
+Marquis was willing to sell, and the tenants were eager to buy. It was a
+hard pull for some of them to raise the one-third of the purchase money.
+They paid at the rate of thirty years' rent as purchase money. They are
+paying now a rent and a half yearly, but hope is in the distance and
+cheers them on. So if they have a millstone about their necks, as my
+Moville friend insinuated, it will drop off some day and leave them free
+for ever. Some of them have already paid the principal.
+
+The Marquis got such a high price for his land that he only sold two-
+thirds of the estate, retaining the rest in his own hands, and raising
+the rents. Some two or three of the purchasers had a good deal of
+difficulty in raising their payments, but Mr. Brown has no doubt they
+will eventually pull through.
+
+I heard again and again, before I met with Mr. Brown, of Limavady, that
+it was about thirty years since the tenants of the rich lands of the
+Ulster settlement began to feel the landlords nibbling at their tenant
+right. The needy or greedy class of landlords discovered a way to evade
+the Ulster custom, by raising the rents in such a way as to extinguish
+the tenant right in many places. For instance, a tenant wished to sell
+his interest in a certain place. The agent attended the sale to notify
+parties wishing to buy that rent would be doubled to any new tenant and
+there was no sale, for the place was not worth so much. The tenant's
+right was more than swallowed up by the increase of rent. This was done
+so successfully that were it not for the Act of 1870, there would be no
+trace of the Ulster custom left.
+
+It has been the custom from the plantation times to let the tenants
+build, clear, fence, improve, drain, on lands let low because they were
+bare of improvement. The difference between what the land was worth when
+the tenant got it, and what generations of thrifty outlay of time and
+the means made it was the tenant's property, and the Ulster custom
+allowed him to sell his right to his improvements to the highest bidder.
+On some lands the tenant right was much more than the rent, as it should
+be when it was made valuable by years and years of outlay; but
+landlords, pinched for money, or greedy for money, naturally grudged
+that this should be, and set themselves by office rules to nip and pick
+the tenant right all away.
+
+One great difference between the men of the lowland farms and the
+Donegal Celt of the hills is that they have felt and treasured up the
+remembrance of injustice since the settlement. Their lowland neighbors
+never began to sympathize with them until they knew how it felt
+themselves. In speaking of injustice and cruelty toward the hill
+tenants, I was often told, "Oh, these things are of the past," they
+occurred thirty years ago. How philosophically people can endure the
+miseries they do not feel. The sponge has not been created that will
+wipe off the Donegal mountains the record of deeds that are graven
+there.
+
+To come back to tenant right, an office rule was made giving the out-
+going tenant three years' rent, in some cases five years' rent for his
+claim on the farm, and "out you go." Mr. McCausland, whose estate joins
+Limavady, gave three years' rent. Since the Land Act of 1870, and since
+the eyes of the world have been turned on the doings of Ireland, he has
+allowed something more for unexhausted manuring. He has also advanced
+money to some extent for improvements, adding five per cent, not to the
+loan, but to the rent, thus making the interest a perpetual charge on
+the property. Landlords in Donegal did the same with the money they got
+from Government to lend to the people--got it at one and a half per cent
+from Government, re-lent it at five per cent, making the interest a
+perpetual rent charge.
+
+  "When self the wavering balance shakes
+  'Tis rarely right adjusted."
+
+The tenants, I think, are naturally averse to borrowing money which
+brings interest in perpetuity over them, and enables the landlord to
+say, "I made the improvements myself." Into these improvements enters
+the tenant's labor, as well as the perpetual interest.
+
+A good man, a minister, not Mr. Brown, reasoned with me that the
+landlord was sleeping partner with the tenant, that he gave the land,
+the tenant the labor, and both should share the profit of improvement.
+If the land was rent free I could see that partnership just, but as long
+as a man paid the rent value of the land as he got it, the improvement
+made by his labor and means through the slow years should be his own. I
+might think differently if I had an estate with daughters to portion,
+sons to establish in life, a castle to build, a fine demesne to create,
+or even a gambling wife or horse-racing sons tugging at my purse
+strings.
+
+Whatever good and sufficient reasons may be found for skinning eels
+alive, nothing will ever reconcile the eels to it.
+
+The companies of Derry, who are great landlords there, the Fishmonger's
+company, the Mercers, &c., are following suit with the rest in evading
+the Ulster Custom. It is thought, as these companies never observed the
+conditions upon which these grants were made to them, but held them
+merely to make money of them, they should be compelled to sell to the
+tenants. I agree with this. Still, if the same rule of non-fulfilment of
+obligation were laid to private landlords there would be compulsion of
+sale there too. The companies on the whole get the name of being better
+landlords than private individuals, and are more liberal to their
+tenants. In cases of hardship the managers for the companies, not the
+companies themselves, get the blame.
+
+The great complaint is the landlord's power to raise the rents as often
+as he pleases. When a landlord appoints a valuator, the latter
+understands what he is to do and why he was appointed. The tenant has no
+say in this matter. Where is the freedom of contract of which so much is
+said? This arbitrary power of raising the rent at will irresponsibly and
+thus confiscating the tenant's rights, the people who are affected by
+the wrong with one voice declare must cease to exist.
+
+Instances were given me by Mr. Brown, who, by the way, had just come
+home from giving his testimony before the Bessborough Commission. A man
+named Hamilton Stewart was put out of his place, receiving three years'
+rent as compensation. His predecessors had bought the tenant right of
+the place; he had improved it after it fell into his hands. All his
+rights, including the purchase money paid, except the three years' rent,
+were confiscated.
+
+Another case he mentioned as happening on the estate of one Major Scott.
+A tenant, one John Loughrey, was lost in the river. His widow died in a
+few months afterward, leaving two little boys absolutely orphans. Their
+uncle, who lived near, offered to manage the place for the boys and to
+pay the rent till one of them came of age. Answer--"No, we cannot allow
+minors to hold land on our estate." Very much against the wishes of the
+uncle he was obliged to fall in with this landlord's arrangement, and
+five years' rent were laid down as a settlement of the case by Mr. King,
+the agent. The boys' uncle thought it a great hardship to have to give
+up the place the boys' father had improved, for he was a thrifty man,
+had some money, and was able to improve. When the five years' rent was
+counted out on the table, Mr. King said to the boys' uncle, "That is the
+money coming to the boys, count it." He counted it and said, "This is
+five years' rent certainly." "Now," said Mr. King, "there is a bad house
+upon the farm; it is not in as good repair as I would like and I would
+like a good house upon it. I will take L100 of this money and with it I
+will build a house upon the place." He took L100 of the five years' rent
+and built a house that was never inhabited. The children never got this
+money back. This case was referred to again and again in public meetings
+and other places till Mr. King was obliged to make an effort to explain
+it away. The children's uncle was rich, and they thought that,
+therefore, the orphans need not get all the money. Mr. Brown knew this
+case intimately, as the drowned man, his widow, and orphans were members
+of his congregation. This is liberty of contract.
+
+The argument that the children had relatives comparatively rich was the
+same argument as Captain Dopping used as a reason for not restoring what
+was robbed from the Buchanan children--their relatives were rich and
+therefore they did not need it. Now, what person who was touched with a
+trial like this would not consider this freedom of contract absolute
+robbery. In the case of the Loughrey children there had been no
+agreement or shadow of an agreement with the drowned man to keep up the
+house, and the house was as good as any of the neighboring houses--a
+good substantial farm house. This case was brought before the
+Bessborough Commission.
+
+
+
+
+XVI.
+
+REMEMBRANCES OF "THE LONG AGO"--A SOAP AND WATER REMEDY NEEDED--SPOILING
+FOR A FIGHT.
+
+
+After I had seen Mr. Brown, and heard how well his new proprietors were
+getting along, and had given attention to the complaints of those who
+were not yet peasant proprietors, I made a sudden determination to run
+over to Grace Hill for Easter and rest among my ain folk. Was not very
+well and as home-sick for Canada as an enthusiastic Irishwoman could
+afford to be.
+
+Found a package of letters and papers from home awaiting me and felt
+better after reading them. Made an effort for old times' sake to be at
+all the meetings on Easter Sunday and enjoyed them all, seasoned with
+early recollections. The quaint Litany held heartfelt petitions for me.
+The love feast with its tea and buns so noiselessly served, brought back
+many a pleasant memory. Even the minister's face, son of parents much
+beloved, had a special power of recalling other days. I felt as if in a
+dream when I sat in Grace Hill church among the people, in the place to
+which I have so often desired to return. I have felt as if, were I to
+turn my head as I used naughtily to do when a child, I should see the
+dear Miss Borg, sitting on the foot-board--a raised seat running along
+the front wall of the church when it had an earthen floor--her sweet
+face tinted with autumn red, bearing sweetly and graciously the burden
+of consecrated years. What a spot of memories is the "God's Acre" on the
+hill to me, surrounded by solemn firs, shaded by spreading sycamores.
+
+Rose up in the morning and left Grace Hill behind me once more. Passed
+into Derry and found that veteran maiden lady quite well, with a small
+stir on her streets caused by the Land League meeting. Heard no one
+speak of it at all, no more than if it had not been, while I waited some
+hours for the Omagh train.
+
+This train, like all third-class trains, which I have yet seen,
+including one second-class train, by which I travelled a little way, was
+extremely filthy. One would think a little paint or even soap and water
+were contraband of war as far as these cars are concerned. After
+steaming a short distance the solitary lamp went out for want of oil.
+When the cars were stopped at the next station we were told to go into
+another compartment that had a lamp--they never seemed to think for a
+moment of replenishing with oil the lamp in the compartment where we
+were. The compartment into which we were moved was pretty full already.
+A good many were smoking strong tobacco, some were far gone in the tipsy
+direction, one of whom was indulging very liberally in profanity. I was
+the only woman in the compartment; but my countrymen, as always, were
+polite, inconveniencing themselves for my accommodation. Even the
+profane person made a violent effort to curb his profanity when he
+noticed me.
+
+A good many of these persons were going to the Land League meeting. One
+respectable man spoke to me of the high rate of land and the miseries of
+the poor, but acknowledged that there were wealthy farmers in Tyrone. He
+recommended me to a nice quiet hotel near the railway, but it being late
+and I feeling a little strange, went to the best hotel in the town, the
+"White Hart," where I was received with uncommon kindness and attention,
+and allotted a quiet, comfortable bedroom away from the noise of the
+street.
+
+In preparation for the Land League meeting the next day the following
+lively placard was posted in Omagh:
+
+"A general public meeting, with bands and banners, of the Tyrone Orange
+Leaguers against the murderous, blood-stained, seditious Popish League,
+commonly called the Irish National Land League, will be held in Omagh on
+Thursday, April the 21st, 1881, to consider the terms of the Land Bill,
+and transact other necessary business. A protest will be made at this
+meeting against the introduction of the principle among the Protestant
+people of Tyrone that it is good to murder Protestants under the guise
+of a Land Reform cry. The Land Leaguers have proved themselves murderers
+and robbers! Why allow the system to be introduced into Tyrone? They are
+boasted rebels. The swindler Parnell stated in his speech in Cincinnati,
+'We will not be satisfied till we have destroyed the last link which
+keeps Ireland bound to England.' It is now sought to have this disloyal
+society and association of murderers established in Omagh. They tried in
+Dungannon first, but the Orangemen frustrated the design. The Orangemen
+of Omagh and neighborhood know well how to shoulder their rifles. Let
+them be ready. Trust in God and keep your powder dry! No peace with
+Rome. No surrender. By order of the Committee."
+
+This proclamation was pulled down by the police, but people seemed to
+expect a faction fight. There was a great force of constabulary in town,
+and military also. It was pointed out to me how skilfully they were
+posted, the military entirely out of sight, but in readiness. There were
+twos and threes here and there, lounging about apparently, but with eyes
+alert and watchful.
+
+
+
+
+XVII.
+
+HONORED AS MISS PARNELL--A LAND LEAGUE MEETING--AN EXPENSIVE DOCUMENT--
+THE LAND LAW DISCUSSED.
+
+
+In the morning a good many police were scattered about the corners, but
+no massing of them. All the fiery placards had completely disappeared. I
+was a little astonished at the scrupulous courtesy with which I was
+treated, a guide volunteering to show me the place of meeting. Found out
+afterward that when I arrived at the hotel I was mistaken for Miss
+Parnell, and felt highly flattered. Omagh was quiet enough; no more stir
+than would be likely for a fair or market day. No sign or sight of a
+counter Orange demonstration. The meeting was held in a field on the
+outskirts of the town, on the property of a gentleman, whose name I
+forget, but who was described as a very good, kind and considerate
+landlord.
+
+On the highest ground in the field a rather slenderly put up platform
+was erected, while farther back and lower down a large tent was pitched
+for the banquet which was to follow the speechifying. The platform,
+slightly railed in and protected by a primitive gate, was furnished with
+two tables and a number of chairs. As soon as I came near the platform a
+gentleman opened the little gate which admitted into the sacred
+enclosure and invited me to a seat on the platform. I accepted gladly,
+for I was very tired. Not knowing the mistake under which the people
+labored, I wondered at the respectful attention that was directed to me.
+Groups of people came and stared at me through the board enclosure, to
+go away and be succeeded by other groups, mostly ladies of the country-
+bred kind. Finally I drew my chair to the back of the platform to be
+more out of the way, and sat there watching the crowd gather.
+
+The crowd was assembling slowly in dozens and half dozens straggling
+along, no great enthusiasm apparent at all. The great majority wore
+corduroys of a great many varieties of color and states of preservation
+or dilapidation. The irrepressible small boys were clustering over the
+slight fence that surrounded the platform, crawling under it, roosting
+on top of it, squatting round my chair and smiling up at me as if they
+expected a universal pat on the head.
+
+The time for the meeting arrived, and with it a squad of reporters, who
+monopolised one table, all the chairs but one, and proceeded to make
+themselves at home, producing their pencils and note books in a
+business-like manner. The crowd clustered at the back of the platform
+began to fling jokes from one to the other about penny-a-liners. Two
+policemen, one tall, blonde, pleasant featured, one short, dark and
+rosy-cheeked, arrived next with their note books and pencils. There were
+a few more policemen at the entrance gate into the field, one soldier
+standing carelessly on the road, an unconcerned spectator to all
+appearance.
+
+Presently the straggling crowd began to concentrate round the platform.
+The women who were peeping into the tent and the men who were helping
+them forsook that pleasing occupation and made for the platform at a
+double quick trot. Many voices said, "yon's them." Looking along the
+road toward the town black with the coming crowd, I saw a waggonette
+drawn by four horses, gallant greys, coming along at a spanking pace.
+
+The crowd around me disputed whether the driver was able to bring his
+four in hand safely through the rather narrow gate, which involved a
+sharp turn, but he did, and drew up inside with a flourish, to the great
+admiration of all. The gentlemen came on the platform, Mr. Dillon, a
+half dozen or so of priests and some other gentlemen. There was a goodly
+number of people assembled; still not as many as I expected to see.
+There were not many thousands at all. The faces of the crowd were not by
+any means so fine as the faces of the Donegal peasantry. They were mixed
+faces, all but a few seemed simple country people, some of the heavy,
+low English type, some keen and Scotch, some low Irish. The women were
+not so fair skinned and rosy as the mountain lasses. There were a good
+many ladies and gentlemen present. I do not think all who were present
+were in favor of the Land League, by the remarks which reached me, but
+the large majority were. As none of the gentlemen speakers spoke to me
+when they came on the platform, I lost my prestige at once.
+
+The first speakers, not accustomed to pitch their voices so as to be
+heard by a crowd, were quite inaudible where I sat. On the contrary,
+every word Mr. Dillon said was distinct and clearly audible. He has a
+clear voice, pleasant to listen to after those who preceded him. He is
+tall, slim, rather good-looking, very black hair, which he wears long,
+and which was so smooth and shining that it made him look like an
+Indian, and truly he is as well made, lithe and nervous-looking as one.
+His manner is cold and clear and self-repressed; not a word but tells.
+His speech was exactly the same as he gave in Derry. He did not approve
+of the Land Bill--and I had thought it so good--but he pointed out a
+great many defects in it. Faults I never should have suspected to be
+there, were picked out and brought to view.
+
+A very telling speech was made by a dark, thin, wiry man named O'Neil.
+His speech dealt with the hardships which they had passed through owing
+to excessive rents and hard years of poor crops. He spoke what the
+people felt, for many a voice chorused, "True for you; we know that
+well." In the middle of the speeches the platform prepared to break
+down, but only collapsed in the middle and fell half way and stopped.
+Two of the priests spoke also, and spoke well to judge by the people's
+applause. No one spoke in favor of the Bill.
+
+I thought as I sat there of the remark made to me by a Catholic
+gentleman of Innishowen, who said: "The Irish people have hoped in vain
+so long, have been deceived so often, that it is hard now to win their
+confidence." The more I move through the country the more I believe
+this. Mr. Dillon was the idol of the assembly, that was easy to be seen.
+A few words with him, a touch of his hand, was an honor. He apologized
+for Mr. Parnell's absence, who being elsewhere could not possibly be at
+Omagh that day. I left before the meeting was over.
+
+As far as I hear from the Common people themselves, they think the law
+and the administrators of it sympathize with the landlords only, and let
+that sympathy influence their decisions. They are, therefore, very
+averse to go to law to obtain what they consider justice from a
+landlord.
+
+Another great complaint that I hear again and again is the expense
+attendant on a transfer of property. As an instance, a little property
+of the value of a hundred pounds changed hands when I was in Ramelton.
+The deed of transfer was a parchment as big as a table-cloth, and cost
+L10.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII.
+
+IRISH HUSBANDRY--A DESCRIPTION OF LORD LEITRIM--ABOVE AND BELOW THE
+SALT--LANDLORD AND TENANT
+
+
+The valley through which the railway passes from Derry to Omagh is one
+long stretch of beauty, fertility and careful tillage. Every field,
+whatever its shape, is cultivated up to the fence and into the corners
+with a mathematical nicety. The regular fields, the green separating
+ditches with their grassy covering, the hills cultivated to the very
+tops, and the trees growing here and there all over made a landscape
+that should delight the heart of a farmer. Whenever I come to careless
+husbandry, I will be sure to record it. I have seen nothing of the kind
+yet on mountain side or valley. I do not wish to fling a rose-colored
+veil over everything because it is Irish.
+
+The country is simply beautiful--no works can do justice to it. Still
+there are some things one could find fault with freely. Between Omagh
+and Strabane I took a third-class car. It was dirty, of course, horribly
+dirty, but, as Mrs. McClarty said, "the dirt was well dried on," and it
+was almost empty, so I entered. At a way station a great crowd, great
+compared to the size of the compartment, came surging in. Every man had
+a clay pipe, every man had a supply of the most villanous tobacco. I do
+not wonder the Government taxes such tobacco, that it has to be sold by
+license--some would not grieve if the duty were prohibitory.
+
+Soon matches were struck, a tiny flash and a fusilade of reports like
+toy pistols--all matches here go off like that. Every man began to smoke
+for dear life, and smoked furiously with great smacks and puffs. And the
+floor! when the mud of many days that had hardened and dried there was
+moistened again by tobacco juice! Soon the compartment was filled with
+smoke, there was literally nothing else to breathe. The car began to
+heave about like a ship at sea. Fortunately we stopped at a station and
+some on board got out, so that there was an opportunity of getting close
+to the door and letting down the glass and a faint was prevented.
+
+It was not pleasant to sit there craning one's neck round to breathe at
+the window, for the seats ran lengthways of the carriage, and keeping
+all crushed up to keep out of the way of a cross fire of tobacco juice
+from the opposite benches. Made a vow there and then against third-class
+carriages.
+
+When the train stopped at Strabane was quite dizzy and sick and took
+refuge in the first 'bus, which 'bus belonged to that superfine
+establishment, the "Abercorn Arms." Was informed that the late Lord
+Leitrim had stopped there a day or two before his death on his way to
+Manorvaughan. "Stopped in this very room," said my informant. "He left
+here on the Sabbath day in his own carriage for Manorvaughan; he had not
+much reverence for the day. He was a very old man, walked lame with one
+leg, had a fiery face and very white hair. I did think they might have
+respected his gray hair. He had not long to live anyway, they might have
+spared him." He rested one day at Manorvaughan, the next day he set out
+for Milford and was killed.
+
+"Why did they murder him?"
+
+"They said he was a cruel landlord. Yes, a very bad landlord they said
+he was. He was very impatient to get away from here that morning. He
+little thought he was hurrying to his death."
+
+From Strabane took the Finn Valley Railway, and went off on a voyage of
+discovery to Rusky.
+
+From Killiegordon took a first class ticket, as the distance was short,
+to see what first-class passengers enjoyed. There is a great difference
+indeed between first and third. Third-class is a penny a mile, first is
+two pence half-penny; third is simply horrible with filth, first is as
+luxurious as carpets, curtains, cushions, spring seats and easy chairs
+can make it. There is not nearly so much difference in price, as
+difference in style. As a first-class passenger I was assisted in and
+out, and the door held open for me; as third or second-class one can get
+in or out as they please for all the officials care. There is a very
+wide difference in every respect between those above and those below the
+line which separates "gentry from commonality." Of course I am using
+local words. Gentry are expected to have a well-filled and an open hand.
+If they have not both, what business have they to set up for gentry?
+Popular opinion thinks of them as Carleton's hedge scholar expressed
+himself, "You a gentleman? No, nor one of your breed, seed or generation
+ever was, you proctoring thafe you!"
+
+Now the line of demarcation between the people trained by ages to stand
+with open hand expecting a gift, and those to whom a gift is an insult
+is hard to find sometimes. A young lad, a sharp boy, had been my guide
+to two or three places and carried my bag for me. I offered him pay, for
+pay had been expected from me by every one with whom I came in contact
+from the moment I landed. Tears came into the poor lad's eyes with
+mortified anger. One feels bad to hurt anyone's feelings, and between
+those who have a desire for a gift and are hurt if they do not get one,
+and those to whom offering a gift is the worst form of insult, one is
+sometimes puzzled to know what to do.
+
+I find a very strong feeling in some places where I have been in
+connection with the contempt which some owners of the soil feel for the
+cultivators of it. A landlord--lately an attorney in a country town--
+who has succeeded, most unexpectedly, to a great estate, takes no pains
+to conceal the contempt in which he holds his tenants. He sauntered into
+a shop, also the post-office of the town, and in the course of
+conversation informed them that his tenantry were a lazy lot of
+blackguards. Two of his tenants were present standing in the shop. He
+did not know them, but they knew him. To the eyes of an outsider like
+myself the tenants seemed the more gentlemanly of the two parties. This
+gentleman, it was explained to me by his tenants, was not a specimen of
+the usual landlord, who, whatever the fault of the land law might be
+which they believed in and ruled their conduct by, they were gentlemen
+who would not degrade themselves by such an utterance.
+
+The idea is brought forward to me again and again that the best landlord
+clings to the power to oppress, absolute unquestioned power to do as he
+likes with his tenantry though he might never exercise it. The
+Protestants of Derry, Donegal, Tyrone, farmers with whom I have had the
+opportunity to converse, all refer to this fact. The good landlord
+considers it an infringement of his rights as a landlord, to take away a
+power he is too kind to use, although he will admit that some have used
+it unmercifully.
+
+A recent speech of Lord Lifford's complains that things are now claimed
+as a right that used to be regarded as a favor on the part of the
+landlords. There is a strong, deep feeling among the best of the tenants
+against such utterances as these and the spirit behind them.
+
+
+
+
+XIX.
+
+LANDLORD AND TENANT--THE LAND QUESTION FROM BOTH SIDES.
+
+
+As far as I have travelled yet, in the mountains of Donegal, through
+Derry, Antrim, Tyrone and Down, I have seen no trace of what Dr.
+Hepworth lays to the charge of the Irish--laziness, never cultivating a
+holding up to the line or into the corners. What excited my wonder again
+and again, is the fact that up to the boundary ditch or hedge, into the
+corners, up to the very edge of the rocks the tillage extended. I saw
+men dig up little fields entirely with the spade among the sudden rocks
+of Port-a-dorus. Some of the patches a horse with a plough attached
+could not turn in, yet they were tilled; there was not a spade's breadth
+left in any corner. And they paid high rent for this ground, rocks and
+all. They fell behind in famine time--not so very far--and humbly
+grateful were they for the help that came from outside in that time, and
+a mercy that forgave a little of the rent. I saw men digging on the
+mountain-side on the Leitrim estate, and wondered how they could keep
+their footing. As far as I have seen, it is a slander on the people to
+say they are averse to labor. On the contrary, they are very laborious,
+and singularly uncareful for their personal comfort. I heard a fellow-
+countryman at Moville talk of Paddy's laziness. I pointed out to him how
+carefully mountain-side and rough bog were cultivated. He admitted it,
+but spoke of want of rotation of crops and absence in many instances of
+fall-ploughing. This, I humbly consider, is want of skill, or maybe want
+of means--not laziness.
+
+Every one says that the country depends almost solely on agriculture;
+agriculture rests on farm labor; farm labor pays rents high enough to
+produce periodical famine. The L90,000 rental of one estate, the L40,000
+of another, is all produced by these lazy people. If there were any spot
+so rocky, so wild, that it was under no rent, one might think them lazy
+if they failed to make a living out of it, but they make a living and
+help to support a landlord, too, out of these rocks and morasses. I hope
+to see life farther south, and see if these lazy people exist there.
+They do not exist in the north so far as I have seen.
+
+It seems to me that the tenant-farmers have been out of sight
+altogether. Now they have waked up, and there is no power to put them to
+sleep again. I am more than astonished to find not one intelligent
+person to defend the Land laws. There is no possibility of understanding
+previous apathy from an American standpoint unless we think of the
+thoughtlessness with which the Indians have been treated. The
+thoughtless landlord has looked upon his own needs according to the
+requirements of his station, not thinking whether the tenant could pay
+so much or not, and, whether, if the rent was raised, it left the means
+of existence behind. I met with very estimable people, who were taking a
+very high rent; higher than any man could honestly pay, and at the same
+time laughing at the poverty-stricken devices of their tenants. They did
+not think.
+
+It must be borne in mind that there was a famine in the land but a short
+time ago, that these thousands and thousands of people who are under
+eviction now have no money and no place to go to but the ditch-back, or
+the workhouse. The workhouse means the parting with wife and children.
+These things must be taken into consideration, to understand the
+exasperation of mind which is seething through the whole country.
+
+I do not think the people here, generally speaking, have any idea of the
+amount or intensity of hidden feeling. I confess it frightens me. I
+stayed in a country place for a week. I boarded with a family who were
+much better off than their neighbors. They were favorites at the office
+of the landlord, and paid him their rent punctually. I often sat at the
+kitchen hearth as neighbor after neighbor came in in the evening and
+told in Irish the tale of some hard occurrence that had taken place. I
+understood enough to guess the drift of the story. I understood well the
+language of eye and clinched hand with which my host listened. The
+people who suffered were his people; their woe was his; he felt for them
+a sympathy of which the landlord never dreamed; but he never said a
+word. I thought as I sat there--silent too--that I would not like to be
+that landlord and, in any time of upheaval, lie at the mercy of this
+favorite tenant of his.
+
+They talk of agitators moving the people! Agitators could not move them
+were it not that they gave voice to what is in the universal heart of
+the tenantry.
+
+A gentleman connected with the press said to me to-day: "The fact is
+that any outrage, no matter how heart-rending, committed by a landlord
+upon his tenantry is taken little notice of--none by Government--but
+when a tenant commits an outrage, no matter how great the provocation,
+then the whole power of the Government is up to punish."
+
+One great trouble among the people is, they cannot read much, and they
+feel intensely; reading matter is too dear, and they are too poor to
+educate themselves by reading. What they read is passed from hand to
+hand; it is all one-sided, and "who peppers the highest is surest to
+please."
+
+The ignorance of one class, consequent upon their poverty, the
+insensibility of another class, are the two most dangerous elements that
+I notice. It is easy to see how public sympathy runs, in the most
+educated classes. There is great sympathy, publicly expressed, for
+Captain Boycott and his potatoes; for Miss Bence-Jones, driven to the
+degrading necessity of milking the cows; but I have watched the papers
+in vain for one word of sympathy with that pale mother of a family, with
+her new-born infant in her arms, set upon the roadside the day I was at
+Carndonagh. Policemen have been known to shed tears executing the law;
+bailiffs have been known to refuse to do their duty, because the
+mother's milk was too strong in them; but the public prints express no
+word of sympathy.
+
+In the papers where sympathy with the people is conspicuous by its
+absence, there will be paragraph after paragraph about prevention of
+cruelty to animals. I had the honor of a conversation with a lady of
+high birth and long descent, and, as I happen to know, of great kindness
+of heart, a landlady much beloved by a grateful and cared-for tenantry.
+I remarked to her that justice seemed to me to be rather one-sided:
+"There is much difference unavoidably between one class and another, but
+there are three places where all classes should stand on an equality--
+on a school room floor, in a court of justice, in the house of God." "I
+would agree with you so far," said the lady, "that they should be on a
+level when they come before God." I am sure there would be no agitation
+nor need of coercion if all the landladies and landlords were like this
+kind-hearted lady in practice.
+
+Another instance of kindly thought on the part of another landlady. The
+famine left many a poor tenant without any stock at all; every creature
+was sacrificed to keep in life. This lady bought cows for her tenants
+who were in this sad plight. She left the cows with them until a calf
+grew up into a milking cow; then the cow was sold to pay the landlady
+the money invested. If the cow sold for more than was paid for it the
+balance was the tenant's, and he had the cow besides. "Thus," said the
+lady to me, "I benefitted them materially at no expense of money, only a
+little." This lady, who claims and receives the homage of her tenants
+for the ould blood and the ould name, has by these acts of inexpensive
+kindness, chained her tenants to her by their hearts. "It's easy to
+see," said one to me, "that the ould kindly blood is in her."
+
+There have been many humble petitions for reduction of rent; many have
+been granted, more have been refused. The reasons given in one case
+were, a ground-rent, a heavy mortgage, an annuity, and legacies. The
+question whether one set of tenants was able to meet all these burdens,
+not laid on by themselves mind, and live, never was taken into
+consideration for a moment.
+
+When I arrived in Ireland, I met with an English gentleman who took a
+lively interest in the purpose for which I crossed the sea, namely, to
+see what I could see for myself and to hear what I could hear for myself
+on the Land Question. He volunteered a piece of advice. "There are two
+different parties connected with the Land Question, the landlords and
+the tenants. They are widely separated, you cannot pass from one to the
+other and receive confidence from both. If you wait upon the landlords
+you will get their side of the story; but, then, the tenants will
+distrust you and shut their thoughts up from you. If you go among the
+tenants you will not find much favor with the landlords. You must choose
+which side you will investigate."
+
+Considering this advice good, I determined to go among the people and
+from that standpoint to write my opinions of what I saw and heard. I
+made up my mind to tell all I could gather of the opinions and
+grievances of the poor, knowing that the great are able to defend
+themselves if wrongfully accused, and can lay the land question, as they
+see it, before the world's readers.
+
+I hear many take the part of the landlords in this manner: "You are
+sorry for the tenants, who certainly have some cause of complaint; can
+you not spare some sympathy for the landlords who bought these lands at
+a high figure, often borrowing the money to buy them and are getting no
+return for the money invested?"
+
+Land hunger is a disease that does not attack the tenants alone. The
+poor man hungers for land to have the means of living; the rich man
+hungers for land because it confers rank, power and position. As soon as
+men have realized fortunes in trade they hasten to invest in land. That
+is the door by which they hope to enter into the privileged classes. Men
+accustomed to "cut things fine," in a mercantile way, are not likely to
+except a land purchase from the list of things which are to pay cent.
+per cent. The tenant has created a certain amount of prosperity, the new
+landlord looks at the present letting value of the land and raises the
+rent. This proceeding extinguishes or rather appropriates the Tenant
+Right. The landlord thinks he is doing no wrong, for, is he not actually
+charging less than Lord So-and-so, or Sir Somebody or other? which is
+perhaps very true. All this time the tenant knows he has been robbed of
+the result of years, perhaps of generations of hard and continuous
+labor. It is impossible to make such a landlord and such a tenant see
+eye to eye.
+
+A gentleman asked a lady of Donegal if she would shut out the landlord
+from all participation in profits arising from improvements and
+consequent increase in the value of the land. I listened for the answer.
+"I would give the landlord the profits of all improvements he actually
+made by his own outlay; I would not give him the profits arising from
+the tenant's labor and means." Now I thought this fair, but the
+gentleman did not. He thought that all profit arising from improvements
+made by the tenant, should revert to the landlord after a certain time.
+I could not think that just.
+
+As a case in point, a brother of Sir Augustus Stewart said to a Ramelton
+tenant:
+
+"My brother does not get much profit from the town of Ramelton."
+
+"He gets all he is entitled to, his ground rent, we built the houses
+ourselves," was the answer.
+
+These people are safe, having a secure title, not trusting to the Ulster
+Custom or the landlords' sense of justice.
+
+I have not been much among landlords. I did sit in the library of a
+landlord, and his lady told me of the excessively picturesque poverty
+prevailing in some parts, citing as an instance that a baby was nursed
+on potatoes bruised in water, the mother having hired out as wet-nurse
+to help to pay the rent. There was no cow and no milk. I had a graphic
+description of this family, their cabin, their manner of eating. The
+mother cannot earn the rent any longer and they are to be evicted. I was
+told they were quite able to pay, but trusting to the Land League had
+refused.
+
+Naturally what I have seen and heard among the poor of my people, has
+influenced my mind. I could not see what I did see and hear what I did
+hear of the tyranny wrought by the late Earl of Leitrim, and the present
+Captain Dobbing, or walk through the desolation created by Mr. Adair,
+without feeling sad, sorry and indignant.
+
+
+
+
+XX.
+
+LORD LIFFORD--THE DUKE OF ABERCORN--WHOLESALE EVICTIONS--GOING SOUTH--
+ENNISKILLEN--ASSES IN PLENTY--IN A GRAVEYARD.
+
+
+On the banks of the Finn, near Strabane, was born the celebrated hero
+Finn ma Coul. I think this just means Finlay McDougall, and, therefore,
+claim the champion as a relative. Strabane lies in a valley, with round
+cultivated hills, fair and pleasant to the eye, swelling up round it.
+Near it is the residence of Lord Lifford. I have heard townspeople
+praise him as a landlord, and country people censure him, so I leave it
+there. His recent speech, in which he complains of the new Land Bill,
+that, if it passes into law, it will give tenants as a right what they
+used to get as a favor from their landlords, has the effect of
+explaining him to many minds.
+
+Leaving Strabane behind, went down or up, I know not which, to Newtown-
+Stewart, in the parish of Ardstraw (_ard strahe_, high bank of the
+river). In this neighborhood is the residence of the Duke of Abercorn,
+spoken of as a model landlord.
+
+The Glenelly water mingles with the Struell and is joined by the Derg,
+which forms the Mourne. After the Mourne receives the Finn at Lifford it
+assumes the name of the Foyle and flows into history past Derry's walls.
+
+At the bridge, as you enter the town of Newtown-Stewart, stands the
+gable wall of a ruined castle, built by Sir Robert Newcomen, 1619,
+burned by Sir Phelim Roe O'Neil along with the town, rebuilt by Lord
+Mountjoy, burnt again by King James.
+
+Upon a high hill above the town, commanding a beautiful view of the
+country far and wide, stand the ruins of the castle of Harry Awry O'Neil
+(contentious or cross Harry), an arch between two ruined towers being
+the only distinct feature left of what was once a great castle. This
+castle commanded a view of two other castles, owned and inhabited by two
+sons or two brothers of this Harry Awry O'Neil. These three castles were
+separate each from each by a river. Here these three lords of the O'Neil
+slept, lived and agreed, or quarrelled as the case might be, ruling over
+a fair domain of this fair country. I do not think the present
+generation need feel more than a sentimental regret after the days of
+strong castles and many of them, and hands red with unlimited warfare.
+
+Towering up beyond Harry Awry's castle is the high mountain of Baissie
+Baal, interpreted to me altar of Baal. I should think it would mean
+death of Baal. (Was Baal ever the same as Tommuz, the Adonis of
+Scripture?) In the valley beyond is a village still named Beltane (Baal
+teine--Baal's fire), so that the mountain must have been used at one
+time for the worship of Baal. The name of the mountain is now corrupted
+into Bessie Bell.
+
+In the valley at the foot of the mountain is the grand plantation that
+stretches miles and miles away, embosoming Baronscourt, the seat of the
+Duke of Abercorn, and the way to it in the shade of young forests. There
+are nodding firs and feathery larches over the hills, glassing
+themselves in the still waters of beautiful lakes. Lonely grandeur and
+stately desolation reign and brood over a scene instinct with peasant
+life and peasant labor some years ago. The Duke of Abercorn was counted
+a model landlord. His published utterances were genial, such as a good
+landlord, father and protector of his people would utter. Some one who
+thought His Grace of Abercorn was sailing under false colors, that his
+public utterances and private course of action were far apart, published
+an article in a Dublin paper. This article stated that the Duke had
+evicted over 123 families, numbering over 1,000 souls, not for non-
+payment of rent, but to create the lordly loneliness about Baronscourt.
+His Grace did not like tenantry so near his residence. Those tenants who
+submitted quietly got five years' rent--not as a right, but as a favor
+given out of his goodness of heart. They tell here that these evictions
+involved accidentally the priest of the parish and an old woman over
+ninety, who lay on her death-bed. He had called upon the priest
+personally and offered ground for a parochial house; he forgot his
+purpose and the priest continued to live in lodgings from which he was
+evicted along with the farmer with whom he lodged. Of the evicted
+families 87 were Catholics and 36 Protestants. If they had been allowed
+to sell their tenant right they might have got farms elsewhere. Of those
+cleared off seventeen who were Protestants and six who were Catholics
+got farms elsewhere from His Grace. Some sank into day laborers, some
+vanished, no one knows where.
+
+People here say that the reason why there are Fenians in America and
+people inclined to Fenianism at home is owing to these large evictions--
+clearances that make farmers into day laborers at the will of the lord
+of the land. The people feel more bitterly about these things when they
+consider injustice is perpetrated with a semblance of generosity.
+Nothing--no lapse of time nor change of place or circumstances--ever
+causes anyone to forget an eviction. Now they say that the Duke of
+Abercorn holds this immense tract of country on the condition of rooting
+the people in the soil by long leases, not on condition of evicting them
+out; therefore, he has forfeited his claim to the lands over and over
+again. This article, published in a Dublin paper, was taken no public
+notice of for a time, but when sharply contested elections came round,
+the Duke and four others, sons and relations, were rejected at the polls
+because of the feeling stirred up by these revelations. Such is the
+popular report of the popular Duke of Abercorn.
+
+Omagh is a pretty, behind-the-age country town. The most splendid
+buildings are the poor-house, the prison, and the new barracks. The
+hotels are very dear everywhere; they seem to depend for existence on
+commercial travellers and tourists. Tourists are expected to be prepared
+to drop money as the child of the fairy tale dropped pearls and
+diamonds, on every possible occasion, and unless one is able to assert
+themselves they are liable to be let severely alone as far as comfort is
+concerned, or attendance; but when the _douceur_ is expected plenty
+are on hand and smile serenely.
+
+Left Omagh behind and took passage for Fermanagh's capital, Enniskillen
+of dragoon celebrity. The road from Omagh to Enniskillen showed some, I
+would say a good deal, of waste, unproductive land. Land tufted with
+rushes, and bare and barren looking--still the fields tilled were
+scrupulously tilled. The houses were the worst I had yet seen on the
+line of rail, as bad as in the mountains of Donegal, worse than any I
+saw in Innishowen. I wonder why the fields are so trim and the homes in
+many cases so horrible. Not many, I may say not any, fine houses on this
+stretch of country.
+
+Arrived at Enniskillen on market day, towards the close of April. The
+number of asses on the market is something marvellous. Asses in small
+carts driven by old women in mutch caps, asses with panniers, the
+harness entirely made of straw, asses with burdens on their backs laid
+over a sort of pillion of straw. I thought asses flourished at Cairo and
+Dover, but certainly Enniskillen has its own share of them. The faces of
+the people are changed, the tongues are changed. The people do not seem
+of the same race as they that peopled the mountains of Donegal.
+
+A little while after my arrival, taking a walk, I wandered into an old
+graveyard round an old church which opened off the main street.
+Underneath this church is the vault or place of burial of the Cole
+family, lords of Enniskillen--a dreary place, closed in by a gloomy
+iron gate. A very ancient man was digging a grave in this old graveyard,
+sacred, I could see by the inscriptions, to the memory of many of the
+stout-hearted men planted in Enniskillen, who held the land they had
+settled on against all odds in a brave, stout-hearted manner. None of
+the dust of the ancient race has mouldered here side by side with their
+conquerors. There was a dragoonist flavor about the dust; a military
+flourish about the tombstones. A., of His Majesty's regiment; B.,
+officer of such a battalion of His Majesty's so-and-so regiment; C., D.,
+and all the rest of the alphabet, once grand officers in His Majesty's
+service, now dust here as the royal majesties they served are dust
+elsewhere. Went over to the ancient grave-digger, who was shovelling out
+in a weakly manner decayed coffin, skull, ribs, bones, fat earth--so fat
+and greasy-looking, so alive with horrible worms. He was so very old and
+infirm that, after a shovelful or two, he leaned against the grave side
+and _peched_ like a horse with the heaves.
+
+"How much did he get for digging a grave?"
+
+"Sometimes a shilling, sometimes one and six, or two shillings,
+accordin' as the people were poor or better off."
+
+"How were wages going?"
+
+"Wages were not so high as they had been in the good times before the
+famine. A man sometimes got three-and-six or four shillings then; now he
+got two shillings."
+
+"And board himself?"
+
+"Oh, yes, always board himself."
+
+"Some people now want a man to work for a shilling and board himself,
+but how could a man do that? It takes two pence to buy Indian meal
+enough for one meal. You see there would be nothing left to feed a
+family on."
+
+A stout, bare-legged hizzie appeared now, and kindly offered the old man
+a pinch of snuff out of a little paper to overcome the effects of the
+smell, and keep it from striking into his heart. This was one errand; to
+find out who was talking to him was another. She did not; we gave the
+poor old fellow a sixpence and moved away.
+
+
+
+
+XXI.
+
+ENNISKILLEN MILITARY PRIDE--THE BOYS CALLED SOLDIERS--REMNANTS OF BY-
+GONE POWER--ISLAND OF DEVENISH--A ROUND TOWER--AN ANCIENT CROSS--THE
+COLE FAMILY
+
+
+Owing to the very great kindness of Mr. Trimble, editor of the
+Fermanagh Reporter, we have seen some of the fair town of Enniskillen.
+Knowing that Innis or Ennis always means island, I was not surprised to
+find that Enniskillen sits on an island, and is connected with the
+mainland by a bridge at either end of the town. Of course, the town has
+boiled over and spread beyond the bridges, as Derry has done over and
+beyond her walls. There is a military flavor all over Enniskillen, a
+kind of dashing frank manner and proud steps as if the dragoon had got
+into the blood. There is also nourished a pride in the exploits of
+Enniskillen men from the early times when they struggled to keep their
+feet and their lives in the new land. They feel pride in the fame of the
+Enniskillen dragoon, in the deeds of daring and valor of the 27th
+Enniskilleners all over the world. Enniskillen military pride is closely
+connected with the Cole family, lords of Enniskillen.
+
+The town is not old, only dating back to the reign of the sapient James
+the First. Remembrance of the sept of Maguires who ruled here before
+that time, still lingers among the country people.
+
+Had a sail on Lough Erne at the last of April; tried to find words
+sufficiently strong to express the beauty of the lake and found none. It
+is as lovely as the Allumette up at Pembroke. I can not say more than
+that. The banks are so richly green, the hills so fertile up to their
+round tops, checked off by green hedges into fields of all shapes and
+sizes; the trees lift up their proud heads and fling out their great
+arms as if laden with blessing; the primroses, like baby moons, more in
+number than the stars of heaven, glow under every hedge and gem every
+bank, so that though the Lake Allumette is as lovely as Lough Erne, yet
+the banks that sit round Lough Erne are more lovely by far than the
+borders of Lake Allumette. They are as fair as any spot under heaven in
+their brightness of green.
+
+Sailing up the lake or down, I do not know which, we passed the ruins of
+Portora old castle; ruined towers and battered walls, roofless and
+lonely. Kind is the ivy green to the old remnants of by-gone power or
+monuments of by-gone oppression, happing up the cold stones, and draping
+gracefully the bare ruins.
+
+The Island of Devenish, or of the ox, is famed for the good quality of
+its grass. Here we saw the ruins of an abbey. It has been a very large
+building, said to have been built as far back as 563. The ruins show it
+to have been built by very much better workmen than built the more
+modern Green Castle in Innishowen. The arches are of hewn stone and are
+very beautifully done without the appearance of cement or mortar. The
+round tower, the first I ever saw, was a wonderful sight to me. It is 76
+feet high, and 41 in circumference. The walls, three feet thick, built
+with scarcely any mortar, are of hewn stone, and I wondered at the skill
+that rounded the tower so perfectly. The conical roof is (or was)
+finished with one large stone shaped like a bell; four windows near the
+top opposite the cardinal points. There is a belt of ribbed stone round
+the top below the roof, with four faces carved on it over the four
+windows. Advocates of the theory that the round towers were built for
+Christian purposes have decided that there are three masculine, and one
+feminine face, being the faces of St. Molaisse, the founder of the
+abbey; St. Patrick, St. Colombkill and St. Bridget.
+
+Near the round tower is the ruins of what was once a beautiful church.
+The stone work which remains is wonderfully fine. The remaining window,
+framed of hewn stone wrought into a rich, deep moulding, seems never to
+have been intended for glass. It is but a narrow slit on the outside,
+though wide in the inside. There are the remains of two cloistered
+cells, one above another, very small, roofed and floored with stone,
+belonging to a building adjoining the church. Climbed up the little
+triangular steps of stone that led into the belfry tower, and looked
+forth from the tower windows over woodland hill, green carpet and blue
+waters, with a blessing in my heart for the fair land, and an earnest
+wish for the good of its people.
+
+There is in the old churchyard one of the fair, skilfully carved,
+ancient crosses to be found in Ireland. It was shattered and cast down,
+but has been restored through the care of the Government. It is very
+high and massive, yet light-looking, it is so well proportioned. There
+are pictures of scriptural subjects, Adam and Eve, David and Goliath,
+&c., carved in relief over it. Two I saw at Ennishowen had no
+inscription or carving at all.
+
+The Government has built a wall around these fine ruins for their
+protection from wanton destruction. It takes proof of the kind afforded
+by these ruins to convince this unbelieving generation that the ancient
+Irish were skilled carvers on stone, and architects of no mean order. I
+have looked into some of what has been said as to the uses for which the
+round towers were built with the result of confusing my mind hopelessly,
+and convincing myself that I do not know any more than when I began,
+which was nothing. I am glad, however, that I saw the outside of this
+round tower. I saw not the inside, as the door is nine feet from the
+ground and ladders are not handy to carry about with one.
+
+
+
+
+XXII.
+
+THE EARL OF ENNISKILLEN AND HIS TENANTS--CAUSES OF DISSATISFACTION--
+SPREAD OF THE LAND LEAGUE AMONGST ENNISKILLEN ORANGEMEN--A SAMPLE
+GRIEVANCE--THE AGENTS' COMMISSION--A LINK THAT NEEDS STRENGTHENING--THE
+LANDLORD'S SIDE.
+
+
+It seems a great pity that the attachment between the Earl of
+Enniskillen and his tenants should suffer interruption or be in danger
+of passing away. The Earl, now an old man, was much loved by his people,
+until, in a day evil alike for him and for his tenants, he got a new
+agent from the County Sligo. Of course, I am telling the tale as it was
+told to me. Since this agent came on the property, re-valuation, rent
+raising, vexatious office rules, have been the order of things on the
+estate. The result of this new state of things, has been that the Land
+League has spread among the tenants like wildfire. I did not feel
+inclined to take these statements without a grain of salt. To hear of
+the Land League spreading among Enniskillen Orangemen, among the Earl's
+tenants, of dissatisfaction creeping in between these people
+historically loyal and attached to a family who had been their chiefs
+and landlords for centuries, was surprising to me.
+
+To convince me that such was the case, I was requested to listen to one
+of the Earl's tenants reciting the story of his grievances at the hands
+of the Earl's agent. It was a sample case, I was told, and would explain
+why the people joined the Land League. It was pleasant enough to have an
+opportunity of going into the country and to have an opportunity of
+seeing the farms and the style of living of the Fermanagh farmers, as
+compared with the Donegal highlands.
+
+The country out of Enniskillen is very pretty. May has now opened, the
+hedges have leafed out and the trees are beginning lazily to unfold
+their leaves. The roads are not near so good as the roads in Donegal,
+which are a legacy from the dreary famine time, being made then. The
+hedges are not by any means so trim and well kept as the hedges by the
+wayside in Down or Antrim. The roads up to the farm houses are lanes,
+such as I remember when I was a child. The nuisances of dunghills near
+the doors of the farmhouses have been utterly abolished for sanitary
+reasons, also whitewashing is an obligation imposed by the Government.
+For these improvements I have heard the authorities both praised and
+thanked. In these times of discontent, it is well to see the Government
+thanked for anything. The country is hilly and the hills have a uniform
+round topped appearance, marked off into fields that run up to the hill
+tops and over them and down the other side. There are, of course,
+mountains in the distance, wrapped in a thick veil of blue haze.
+
+The house to which I was bound was, like most of the farm houses, long,
+narrow, whitewashed, a room at each end and the kitchen in the middle. I
+will now let the farmer tell his grievances in his own words. He is
+about sixty years of age, a professor of religion of the Methodist
+persuasion, an Orangeman, and a hereditary tenant of Lord Enniskillen,
+and now an enthusiastic adherent of the Land League. "In 1844 I bought
+this farm--two years before I was married. There is 17-1/2 acres. I paid
+L184 as tenant right--that is, for the goodwill of it. The rent was L19
+7s 4d. I should have gone to America then; it would have been better for
+me. I have often rued that I did not go, but, you see, I was attached to
+the place. My forbears kindled the first fire that ever was kindled on
+the land I live on. I held my farm on a lease for three lives; two were
+gone when I bought it. I have been a hard-working man, and a sober man.
+There is not a man in the country has been a greater slave to work than
+I have been. I drained this place (fetches down a map of the little
+holding to show the drains). It is seamed with drains; 11 acres out of
+17-1/2 acres are drained, the drains twenty-one feet apart and three
+feet deep. Drew stone for the drains two miles, L100 would not at all
+pay me for the drainage I have done. I built a parlor end to my house,
+and a kitchen; also, a dairy, barn, byre, stable and pig house. Every
+year I have bought and drawn in from Enniskillen from sixty to one
+hundred loads of manure for my farm; this calculation is inside of the
+amount. I have toiled here year after year, and raised a family in
+credit and decency. When the last life in my lease died, my rent was
+immediately raised to L27 10s. I paid this for a few years, and then the
+seasons were bad, and I fell behind. It was not a fair rent, that was
+the reason I was unable to pay it. I complained of the rent. I wanted it
+fixed by arbitration; that was refused. I asked for arbitration to
+decide what compensation I had a right to, and I would leave; that was
+refused too. I was served with a writ of ejectment. The rent was lowered
+a pound at two different times, but the law expenses connected with the
+writ came to more than the reduction given. I had the privilege, along
+with others, of cutting turf on a bog attached to the place at the time
+I held the lease; that was taken from us. We had then to pay a special
+rate for cutting turf, called turbary, in addition to our rent. So that
+really I am struggling under a higher rent than before, while I have the
+name of having my rent lowered: I once was able to lay by a little money
+during the good times; that is all gone now. I am getting up in years.
+If I am evicted for a rent I cannot pay, I cannot sell my tenant right;
+I will be set on the world at my age without anything. I joined the Land
+League. At the time of an election it was cast up to Lord Enniskillen
+about taking from us the bog. It was promised to us that we should have
+it back, in these words: 'If there is a turf there you will get it.'
+After the election we petitioned for the bog, and were refused. We were
+told our petition had a lie on the face of it. It is the present agent,
+Mr. Smith, that has done all this. He is the cause of all the ill-
+feeling between the Earl of Enniskillen and his tenants. He has raised
+the rents L3,000 on the estate, I am told. He gets one shilling in the
+pound off the rent; that is the way in which he is paid; so it is little
+wonder that he raises the rents; it is his interest to do so."
+
+I listened to this man tell his story with many strong expressions of
+feeling, many a hand clench, and saw he was moved to tears; saw the
+hereditary Enniskillen blood rise, the heart that once throbbed
+responsive to the loyalty felt for the Enniskillen family now surging up
+against them passionately. I thought sadly that the loss was more than
+the gain. Gain L3,000--loss, the hearts that would have bucklered the
+Earl of Enniskillen, and followed him, as their fathers followed his
+fathers, to danger and to death. I decided in my own mind that Mr.
+Smith's agency had been a dear bargain to the Enniskillen family. "The
+beginning of strife is like the letting out of water; therefore, leave
+off contention before it be meddled with."
+
+After I had listened to the farmer's wrongs and heard of others who also
+had a complaint to make, I was obliged to think that their case was not
+yet so hard as the case of those who suffered from the
+_eccentricities_ of Lord Leitrim. Still, it is a hard case when we
+consider that the man's whole life and so much money also sunk in rent,
+purchase, improvements, and when unable to pay a rent raised beyond the
+possibility of paying, to lose all and begin life again without money or
+youth and hope, at sixty years of age. People with exasperated minds are
+driven to join the Land League, in hope that union will be strength, and
+that ears deaf to petition of right will grant concessions to agitation.
+
+I began to feel afraid that I was hearing too much on one side and too
+little on the other, and I requested to be introduced to some who had
+ranged themselves on the side of the landlords. I was, as a consequence,
+introduced to several gentlemen at different times, but I got no light
+on the subject from any of them. They were so very sure that everything
+was just as it should be, and nothing short of treason would induce any
+one to find fault. Still when the question was asked squarely, "Are
+there no reasons for wishing for reform of the land laws?" the answer
+was, "We would not go quite so far as that?" There was a vague
+acknowledgment that, generally speaking, some reform was needed, and yet
+every particular thing was defended as all right on the whole, or not
+very far wrong.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII.
+
+A MODEL LANDLORD--ERIN'S SONS IN OTHER LANDS.
+
+
+I have, at last, heard of a model landlord; not that I have not heard
+of good landlords before, as Mr. Humphreys and Mr. Stewart, of Ards, in
+Donegal. I have seen also the effects of good landlordism. When passing
+through the Galgorm estate I saw the beneficial changes wrought on that
+place by Mr. Young; but I have heard of many hard landlords, seen much
+misery as the result of the present land tenure, and I did feel glad to
+hear men praising a landlord without measure. It was a pleasant change.
+This landlord who has won such golden opinions is Lord Belmore, of
+Castle Coole. "The Land League has gained no adherents on his estate,"
+says one to me, "because he is such a just man. He is a man who will
+decide for what he thinks right though he should decide to his own hurt.
+Eviction has never occurred on his place; there is no rack rent, no
+vexatious office rules."
+
+As I have listened to story after story of tyranny on the Leitrim
+estate, so here I listened to story after story of the strict justice
+and mercy of Lord Belmore. His residence of Castle Coole is outside of
+Enniskillen a little, and is counted very beautiful. Of course I went to
+get a peep at it, because he is a lord whom all men praise. "His
+tenants," said one, "not only do not blame him but they glory in him.
+Why should they join the Land League? They get all it promises without
+doing so." As we drove along I heard his justice, his sense of right,
+his praise, in short, repeated in every way possible. I have noticed
+about this lord that to mention his name to any one who knows him is
+quite enough to set them off in praise of him. As he is not an immensely
+wealthy peer, but has been obliged to part with some of his property, it
+is the more glorious the enthusiastic good name he has won for himself.
+
+We drove across a long stretch of gravel drive through scenery like
+fairyland. A fair sheet of water lay below the house, bordered by trees
+that seemed conscious of their owner's renown by the way they tossed
+their heads upward and spread their branches downward, as saying, "Look
+at us: everything here bears examination and demands admiration." Swans
+ruffled their snowy plumage and sailed with stately bendings of their
+white necks across the lake. Wild geese with the lameness of perfect
+confidence grouped themselves on the shore or played in the water. Coots
+swam about in their peculiar bobbing way, as if they were up to fun in
+some sly manner of their own. Across the lake were sloping hills rising
+gently from the water arrayed in the brightest of green. Grand stately
+trees stood with the regal repose of a grand dame, every fold of their
+leafy dress arranged with the skilful touch of that superb artist, Dame
+Nature.
+
+My driver, with a becoming awe upon him of the magnificent grounds, the
+stately house and the high-souled lord, drove along the most
+unfrequented paths, and we came, in the rear of the great house, to a
+quaint little saw-mill in a hollow, a toy affair that did not mean
+business, but such as a great lord might have as a proper appanage to
+wide land and as a convenience to retainers.
+
+After some whispered consultation with the man in charge, it was
+certified that we might drive round, quite round the castle, and,
+favored by fortune, might chance to see the housekeeper and get
+permission to see the inside of the house. I knew the house was very
+nice by intuition; it was very extensive, and I was sure held any
+quantity of pleasant and magnificent rooms; but someway I did not desire
+to go through it. I should have liked to have seen its lord, this modern
+Aristides, whom I was not tired of hearing called the just. The lord
+with the cold stately manner, but the heart that decided matters, like
+Hugh Miller's uncle Sandy, giving the poor man the "cast of the bauk,"
+even to his own hurt.
+
+We drove down the broad walk just out of sight of the extensive gardens
+and conservatories, between trees of every style of magnificence down to
+the lodge gate which was opened to us promptly and graciously. You can
+always judge of a lord by the courtesy or the want of it in his
+retainers. Indeed I believe that even dogs and horses are influenced by
+those that own them, and become like them in a measure. I waft thee my
+heart's homage, lord of Castle Coole! Thy good name, thy place in the
+hearts of thy countrymen, could not be bought for three thousand pounds
+sterling wrung "by ways that are dark," from an exasperated tenantry.
+The drive back to Enniskillen with another suggestive peep at the lake
+was delicious and enjoyable.
+
+In Enniskillen I wandered into the Catholic church, the only church I
+could wander into without a fuss about getting the key. It is grand, and
+severely plain in the absence of pictures and ornaments.
+
+I am told there was a good deal of distress in the County Fermanagh, and
+that they obtained relief from the Mansion House Fund and from the
+Johnston Committee Fund. This Johnston was a Fermanagh man, and has
+risen to wealth in the new world under the Stars and Stripes. The sons
+and daughters of Ireland do not forget, in their prosperity on far-off
+shores, the land of their birth and of their childhood's dreams.
+
+  Like the daisies on the sod,
+  With their faces turned to God,
+  Their hearts' roots are in the island green
+    that nursed them on her lap.
+
+Suffering from want in those hard times must have been comparatively
+slight in Enniskillen, as the local charity was strong enough to relieve
+it, I was informed by an Episcopal clergyman.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV.
+
+SELLING CATTLE FOR RENT--THE SHADOW OF MR. SMITH--GENERATIONS OF
+WAITING--UNDER THE WING OF THE CLERGY--A SAFE MEDIUM COURSE--THE
+CONSTABULARY--EXERTIONS OF THE PRIESTS--A TERMAGANT.
+
+
+Hearing that there was a great disturbance apprehended at Manor
+Hamilton, in the County Leitrim, and that the military were ordered out,
+I determined to go there. I wanted to see for myself. I put on my best
+bib and tucker, knowing how important these things are in the eyes of
+imaginative people. Arrived at the station in the dewy morning, and
+found the lads whom I had seen carrying their dinners at the Redoubt
+drawn up on the platform under arms. How, boyish, slight and under-sized
+they did look, but clean, smart and bright looking, of course. Applied
+at the wicket for my ticket, as the 'bus man was eager to get paid and
+see me safely off. The ticket man told me curtly I was in no hurry, and
+shut the wicket in my face. The idea prevails here, except in the cases
+of the local gentry who are privileged, and to whom the obsequiousness
+is remarkable, that the general public, besides paying for their
+accommodation, ought to accept their tickets as a favor done them by the
+Company. This stately official at last consented to issue tickets; as I
+had not change enough to pay I gave him a sovereign, and, not having
+time to count the change, I stuffed it into my portmonnaie and made a
+rush for the cars as they snorted on the start.
+
+In spite of my determination, made amid the smoke and filth of the
+third-class cars between Omagh and Strabane, I took a third-class car,
+and to my agreeable surprise it was clean, and I had it to myself. We
+steamed out of Enniskillen, all the workers in the fields and the people
+in the houses dropping their work to stare at the cars, crowded with
+soldiers, that were passing. I had a letter of introduction to an
+inhabitant of Manor Hamilton, as a precaution. We passed one of the
+entrances to Florence Court, the residence of the once-loved Earl of
+Enniskillen. When I understood that this nobleman was up in years, his
+magnificent figure beginning to show the burden of age, and that he was
+blind, I felt a respectful sympathy for him, and wished that the shadow
+of Mr. Smith and his three thousand of increase of rent had never fallen
+across his path. After passing the road to Florence Court, when the
+train was not plunging through a deep cut, I noticed that the land did
+not, all over, look so green or so fertile as in the farther down North.
+There was much land tufted with rushes, much that had the peculiar shade
+of greenish brown familiar to Canadian eyes. There were many roofless
+cottages standing here and there in the wide clearings. There were bleak
+bogs of the light colored kind that produce a very worthless turf, that
+makes poor fuel.
+
+At one of the way stations, a decent-looking woman came into the
+compartment where I sat. Divining at once that I had crossed the water,
+she spoke pretty freely. Their farm was on a mountain side. It had to be
+dug with a spade; horses could not plough it. The seasons had been
+against the crops for some years. Yes, their rent had been raised,
+raised at different times until it was now three times was it was ten
+years ago. She was going to the office to try to get some favor about
+the rent. They could not pay it and live at all, and that was God's
+truth. Had no hope of succeeding. Did not believe a better state of
+things would come without the shedding of blood. "Oh, yes, it is true
+for you, they have no arms and no drill, but they look to America to do
+for them what they cannot do for themselves. Oh, of course it should be
+the last thing tried, but generations of waiting was in it already, and
+every hope was disappointed some way." The laws got harder and the crops
+shorter, that was the way of it.
+
+Arrived at Manor Hamilton, every male creature about congregated with
+looks of wonder to watch the military arrive. They were a totally
+unexpected arrival, and caused the more sensation in consequence. There
+were none to answer a question until these boyish soldiers had been
+paraded, counted, put through some manoeuvres of drill, and then "'bout
+face and march" off. They seemed so alive, so eager for fun, so
+different from the stolid-faced veteran soldier that I hoped inwardly
+that to-day's exploits would not deepen into anything worse than fun.
+
+When they tramped off, carrying their young faces and conscious smiles
+away from the station, I found a porter to inform me that Manor Hamilton
+was a good bit away. As there was no car I must walk, and a passing
+peasant undertook to pilot me to the town. Passed a large Roman Catholic
+church in process of erection. It will be a fine and extensive building
+when finished. They were laying courses of fine light gray hewn stone
+rounded, marking where the basement ended and the building proper began.
+Such a building, at such a time, is one of the contradictions one sees
+in this country.
+
+Stopped at a hotel and was waited on by the person to whom my letter of
+introduction was directed, who introduced me to some other persons,
+including some priests. It was ostensibly an introduction, really an
+inspection. Only for this introduction I should not have got admittance
+into the hotel. People were arriving from every quarter. I stood at an
+upper window watching the people arrive in town. The first band,
+preceded by a solemn and solitary horseman, consisted of a big drum
+beaten by no unwilling hand, and some fifes. They played, "Tramp, Tramp,
+the Boys are Marching," with great vim. The next detachment had a banner
+carried by two men, the corners steadied by cords held by two more. It
+was got up fancy, in green and gold, a picture of Mr. Parnell on one
+side, and some mottoes on the other. "Live and let live," was one. The
+band of this company, some half-dozen fifers, were dressed in jackets of
+green damask rimmed with yellow braid, and had caps made of green and
+yellow, or green and white, of the same shape as those worn by the
+police. The operator on the big drum had a white jacket and green cap.
+He held his head so high, his back was so straight, his cap set so
+knowingly on one side, he rattled away with such abandon, and looked as
+if he calculated that he was a free and independent citizen, that I
+guessed he had learned those airs and that bearing in classic New York.
+The next detachment had a brass band and some green favors and a green
+scarf among them.
+
+One of the clergy to whom I was introduced, volunteered to show me to a
+position from which I would safely see the whole performance, which was
+the auction of cattle for rent--I was quite glad to have the kind
+offices of this gentleman, as without them I would have seen very little
+indeed. As I passed down the street under the wing of the clergy, I was
+amused at the innocent manner in which a half-dozen or so would get
+between his reverence and me, blocking the way, until they understood I
+was in his care, when a lane opened before us most miraculously, and
+closed behind us as the human waves surged on.
+
+The police officers and men were patient and polite to high perfection.
+We made our way to the Court House, where the soldiers were drawn up
+inside, crowding the entrance hall and standing on the stairs. It was
+thought the sale would be in the Court House yard, in which case the
+official offered me a seat on the gallery. As the building was low, the
+long windows serving for both stories, it would be only a good position
+if the cattle were auctioned in the Court yard. This had been done
+before, and would be prevented if possible this time, as it was too
+private a proceeding. Meanwhile I sat in the official room, the kitchen
+in short, and waited looking at the peat fire in the little grate, the
+flitches of bacon hanging above the chimney, the canary that twittered
+in a subdued manner in its cage, as if it felt instinctively the
+expectant hush that was in the air.
+
+It was decided to hold the sale on the bridge, so I was piloted through
+the military, through a living lane of police, through the surging
+crowd, to a house that was supposed to command the situation, and found
+a position at an upper window by the great kindness of the clergyman who
+had taken me in charge.
+
+It is something awful to see a vast mass of human beings, packed as
+closely as there is standing room, swayed by some keen emotion, like the
+wind among the pines. It is wonderful, too, to see the effects of
+perfect discipline. The constabulary, a particularly fine body of men,
+with faces as stolid as if they were so many statues, bent on doing
+their duty faithfully and kindly. They formed a living wall across the
+road on each side of an open space on the bridge, backs to the space,
+faces to the crowd, vigilant, patient, unheeding of any uncomplimentary
+remarks.
+
+The cause of all this excitement was the seizure of cattle which were to
+be sold for rent due to Cecil White, Esq., by his tenants, at the manor
+of Newtown.
+
+The crowd here was far greater than at Omagh the day of the Land League
+meeting. The first roll of the drum had summoned people from near and
+far in the early morning. I am not a good judge of the number in a
+crowd, but I should say there were some thousands, a totally unarmed
+crowd; very few had even a stick. There were few young men in the crowd--
+elderly men and striplings, elderly women and young girls, and a good
+many children, and, of course the irrepressible small boy who did the
+heavy part of the hissing and hooting. These young lads roosted on the
+Court House wall, on the range wall of the bridge so thickly that the
+wonder was how they could keep their position. The crowd heaved and
+swayed at the other end of the bridge, a tossing tide of heads. The
+excitement was there.
+
+I could not see what was going on, but a person deputed by the clergyman
+before mentioned, came to bring me to a better station for seeing what
+was going on at the other end of the bridge. The crowd made way, the
+police passed us through, and we got a station at a window overlooking
+the scene. Out of the pound, through the swaying mass of people, was
+brought a very frightened animal. If she had had no horns to grip her
+by, if she had had the least bit of vantage ground to gather herself up
+for a jump, she would have taken a flying leap over the heads of some
+and left debtor and creditor, and all the sympathizers on both sides
+behind her, and fled to the pasture. She was held there and bid for in
+the most ridiculous way. All that were brought up this way were bought
+in and the rent was paid, and there the sale ended
+
+There might have been serious rioting but for the exertions of the
+Catholic clergy. Members of the Emergency Committee were particularly
+liable to a hustling at least. The least accidental irritation owing to
+the temper of the crowd would have made them face the bayonets with
+their bare breasts. The police were patient, the clergy determined on
+keeping the excitement down, and all passed off quietly enough. There
+were a few uncomplimentary remarks, such as addressing the police as
+"thim bucks" which remark might as well have been addressed to the court
+house for any effect it had. There were a few hard expressions slung at
+Mr. White which informed all who heard them that Mr. White was cashiered
+from the army for flogging a man to death, that he had well earned his
+name of Jack the flogger, &c.
+
+The crowd dispersed from the bridge. The youthful military passed on the
+march for the train to return to their barracks, the crowd, now good-
+natured, giving them a few jokes of a pleasant kind as they passed; the
+soldiers looking straight ahead in the most soldierly manner they could
+assume, but smiling all the same, poor boys, for surely compliments are
+better than hisses and hoots.
+
+I never heard a sound so dreadful as the universal groan or hoot of this
+great crowd. There was some speaking, a good deal of speaking, from the
+window of the hotel, praising the crowd for their self-control, and
+advising them to go home quietly for the honor of the country and the
+good cause.
+
+After the sale, the three bands and the great crowd, paraded the
+streets. The cattle were brought round in the procession, their heads
+snooded up for the occasion with green ribbon. I do not think the cattle
+liked it a bit; they had had a full share of excitement in the first
+part of the day.
+
+The most active partisan of the Land League was an elderly girl. She was
+the inventor and issuer of the most aggravating epithets that were put
+into circulation during the whole proceedings. Her hair was dark and
+gray (dhu glas), every hair curling by itself in the most defiant
+manner. The heat of her patriotism had worn off some of the hair, for
+she was getting a little bald through her curls--such an assertive
+upturned little nose, such a firm mouth, such a determined protruding
+chin. This patriot had a short jacket of blue cloth, and could step as
+light and give a jump as if she had feathered heels. She reminded me of
+certain citizenesses in Dickens' "Tale of Two Cities." May God of His
+great mercy give wisdom and firmness to the rulers of this land.
+
+
+
+
+XXV.
+
+THE LABORING CLASSES IN MANOR HAMILTON--THEIR HOMES--LOOKING FOR HER
+SHARE--CHARGES AGAINST AN UNPOPULAR LANDLORD.
+
+
+I called upon a clergyman in Manor Hamilton in pursuit of information
+as to the condition of the laboring class. Manor Hamilton is a small
+inland town, depending solely on agriculture. Want of work is the
+complaint. Out of work is the chronic state of things among the laboring
+population. A few laborers are employed on the Catholic church in
+process of erection. The railway is newly finished between Enniskillen
+and Manor Hamilton. While it was being made it supplied work to a great
+many. Rail communication with the rest of the country must be a benefit
+to the town and the surrounding country.
+
+The hopes nourished by the Land League prevent the people from sinking
+into despair or rousing to desperation. "Have the laboring class any
+garden ground to their homes?" I asked. "No. You would not like to see
+their homes. They are not fit for anyone to go into," was the answer. It
+is good sometimes to look at what others are obliged to endure.
+
+Having provided myself with infinitesimal parcels of tea and sugar for
+the very aged or the helplessly sick, I set out with the clergyman and
+went up unexpected lanes and twisted round unlikely corners, dived into
+low tenements and climbed up unreliable stairs into high ones. One home,
+without a window, no floor but the ground, not a chair or table, dark
+with smoke, and so small that we, standing on the floor, took up all the
+available room, paid a rent of $16 per year, paid weekly. The husband
+was out of work, the wife kept a stall on market days, and sold sweets
+and cakes on commission.
+
+Another hovel, divided into two apartments like stalls in a horse
+stable, a ladder leading up to a loft where an old gate and some
+indescribably filthy boards separated it into another two apartments,
+accommodated four families. The rent of the whole was $52 per year, paid
+weekly. One of the inmates of this tenement, an old, old man, whose
+clothing was shreds and patches, excused himself from going into the
+workhouse by declaring that there were bad car-ack-ters in there, while
+he and his father before him were ever particular about their company.
+
+Children, like the field daisy, abound everywhere. In one hovel a brand
+new baby lay in a box, and another scarcely able to walk toddled about,
+and a lot more, like a flock of chickens, were scattered here and there.
+In one of these homes a small child was making a vigorous attempt to
+sweep the floor. On asking for her mother, the little mite said, "She is
+away looking for her share." This is the popular way of putting a name
+on begging.
+
+One inhabitant made heather brooms, or besoms, as they are called here.
+He goes to the mountain, cuts heather, draws it home on his back, makes
+the besoms, and sells them for a halfpenny apiece.
+
+In one hovel a little boy lay dying of consumption--another name for
+cold and hunger--his bed a few rags, a bit of sacking and a tattered
+coat the only bed-clothes. "I am very bad entirely, father," was the
+little fellow's complaint. I stood back while the father talked to him,
+and it was easy to see that he had well practised how to be a son of
+consolation. It was a cold windy day, and the wind blew in freely
+through the broken door. Surely, I thought, the workhouse would be
+comparative comfort to this child; but it seems that the whole family
+must go in if he went. The saddest consideration of all is the want of
+work--excitement like what is in the country now must be bad for idle
+and hungry men.
+
+Mr. Corscadden and Mr. Tottenham, the contractor for the railway, are
+the two landlords who are most unpopular. Mr. White, one of those who
+had the cattle seized for rent, is also unpopular, very. Mr. Corscadden
+is a new landlord, comparatively speaking; was an agent before he became
+a proprietor. He is at open war with his tenantry. He requires an escort
+of police. His son has been shot at and missed by a narrow enough shave,
+one ball going through his hat, another grazing his forehead. This is
+coming quite nigh enough. Some buildings on his property in which hay
+was stored were burned--by the tenants, thinks Mr. Corscadden; by the
+Lord, say the people. I hope to see Mr. Corscadden personally, so I have
+made particular enquiries as to what he has done to deserve the ill-
+feeling that rages against him.
+
+The chief charges against Mr. Corscadden are wasting away the people off
+the land to make room for cattle and black-faced sheep; taking from the
+people the mountain attached to their farms which they used for pasture,
+and then doubling the rent on what remained after they had lost part.
+
+The land out by Glenade (the long glen) is very poor in parts. The
+amount of cultivated fields does not seem enough to supply the
+inhabitants with food. The country has in a large degree gone to grass.
+There is also a suspicion of grass on the mountain sides which are bare
+of heather and whins. They say the grass is sweet and good, and that
+cattle flourish on it, but the improved quality of stock and milch cows
+require additional tub feed to keep them in a thriving condition. There
+are some rich-looking fields, but the most of the land has a poverty-
+stricken look and the large majority of the houses are simply
+abominable.
+
+It is spring weather and spring work is going on. Men are putting out
+manure, carrying it in creels on their backs. Asses are the prevailing
+beasts of burden, carrying about turf in creels or drawing hay--a big
+load to a small ass. Men and women and children are out planting
+potatoes in patches of reclaimed bog. Very few cattle are to be seen
+compared to the extent of the grazing lands.
+
+The formation of rock here in the mountain tops has a resemblance to the
+fortification-looking rocks at McGilligan, but they are neither so lofty
+nor so abrupt. In one place there was a mighty cleft in the rock, as if
+some giant had attempted to cut a slice off the front of the rock and
+had not quite succeeded. I was told by my driver that an old man lived
+in the cleft behind the rock; it was said also that a ghost haunted it.
+I wonder if the ghost makes poteen.
+
+Apart from the condition of the country and the poverty of the people a
+drive through the long glen of Glenade on a pleasant day is delightful.
+The hills swell into every shape, the houses--if they were only good
+houses--nestle in such romantic nooks, and the eternal mountains rising
+up to the clouds bound the glen on each side. I saw one house made of
+sods, thatched with rushes, that was not much bigger or roomier than a
+charcoal heap. I would have thought it was something of that kind only
+for the hole that served for a chimney.
+
+The people are very civil, and if they only knew what would please you,
+would say it whether they thought it or not. If they do not know what
+side you belong to, no people could be more reticent.
+
+The Land League is very popular. Since the Land League spread and the
+agitation forced public attention to the extreme need of the people many
+landlords have reduced their rents. Lord Massey is a popular landlord;
+anything unpopular done on his estate, Mr. LaTouche, his agent, has laid
+to his door.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI.
+
+TENANTS VOLUNTARILY RAISING THE RENT TO ASSIST THEIR LANDLORDS--
+BEAUTIFUL IRISH LANDSCAPES--CANADIAN EYES--RENTS IN LEITRIM--THE
+POTATO.
+
+
+Determined, if possible, to hear something of the landlord's view of
+the land question, I wrote to Mr. Corscadden, the so unpopular landlord,
+asking for an interview. This gentleman, some time ago, moved the
+authorities to erect an iron hut for the police at Cleighragh, among the
+mountains that garrison Glenade. There had been an encounter there, a
+kind of local shindy, between him and his tenants, when they prevented
+him from removing hay in August last. The police came in large numbers
+to erect the hut, but it could not be got to the place, for no one would
+draw it out to Glenade.
+
+Mr. Corscadden bought this small parcel of land at Glenade from a Mr.
+Tottenham; not the unpopular Tottenham, but another, much beloved by his
+people. He lived above his income, and was embarrassed in consequence.
+His tenants voluntarily raised the rents on themselves for fear he would
+be obliged to sell the land, and they might pass into the hands of a bad
+landlord. They raised the rent twice on themselves, and after all he was
+obliged to sell, and the fate they dreaded came upon them; they passed
+into Mr. Corscadden's hands.
+
+During the famine this part of Leitrim got relief from the Mansion House
+Fund. Mr. Corscadden never gave a penny; never answered a letter
+addressed to him on the subject.
+
+Having posted my letter I went out among the people who were, or were to
+be, evicted in the country around Kiltyclogher, (church of the stone
+house, or among the stones). We left the bright green fields that belt
+around Manor Hamilton and the grand trees that overshade the same green
+fields, and drove up among the hills, in a contrary direction from
+Glenade. A beautiful day, warm and pleasant, shone upon us; the round-
+headed sycamores are leafed out, and the larch has shaken out her
+tassels, the ditch backs are blazing with primroses and the black thorns
+are white with bloom, and there are millions of daisies in the grass. We
+passed over some good land at the roadside, some green fields in the
+valleys, but there is a very great deal of waste and also of barren
+land. A great deal of the tilled land is bog, a good deal of the waste
+land is shallow earth overlying rocks, some is cumbered with great
+boulders, and rough with heather and whins.
+
+My companion, a lady active in the Ladies' Land League, thought it good
+land and worth reclaiming if let at a low rent. I, looking at it with
+Canadian eyes, would not have taken a gift of it and be bound to reclaim
+it. If I rented a few acres of those wild hills, and rooted out the
+whins and raised and removed the stones, I would think it unjust to
+raise the rent on me because of my labor.
+
+It is admitted by all who know anything of the matter, that the tenants
+have reclaimed what land is reclaimed. Rent in County Leitrim has been
+raised from L24,990 to L170,670 within the last eighty years, and is
+L34,144 above the Government valuation.
+
+We called at the house of a tenant farmer who had been evicted for non-
+payment of rent, and was back as a weekly tenant. He was putting in some
+crop, working alone in the field. He came to speak to my companion. He
+had got no word from the landlord as to whether he would put in any crop
+or not. He was in sore anxiety between his fear of offending the
+landlord, and the fear of doing anything against the rules of the Land
+League. His little boys were putting out manure in creels, carrying it
+on their shoulders. He had no means of paying rent. If he were forgiven
+the rent due and a year's rent to come, he might then be in a position
+to resume paying rent. This is my own opinion. The poor man himself was
+sorely perplexed and cast down. A thin, white, helpless-looking man. The
+terrors of the eviction had taken hold of his wife, who was sickly. The
+only hope they had was that God would bless the potato crop, for they
+had secured Champion potatoes for seed.
+
+The potatoes that used to flourish in Ireland forty years ago, have
+entirely passed away. Even the Champion potato is not very good. The
+skin is thick and has a diseased appearance and the potato has black
+spots on the outside. I think the land is suffering from an overdose of
+such manure as they apply here, and the leaf mould is entirely
+exhausted. Of course this is the opinion of one who knows nothing of
+farming.
+
+Passed another house, a widow's, who has been evicted. The family had
+been put out and the official went to get some water to quench the fire;
+all the little household belongings were scattered about. Putting out
+the fire and fastening up the door were the last acts of the eviction.
+While the official's back was turned, the widow slipped in again, and
+was fastened up in the house, the children being outside. Her sons are a
+little silly. The children camp outside and she holds the garrison
+inside. She thinks the Land Bill or the Land League, or something
+miraculous will turn up to help her if she keeps possession for a while.
+Fear that she has done wrong and laid herself open to some greater
+punishment, and excitement have blanched her face. In the dim evening
+she sits at the window inside; the children have a gipsy fire and sit
+under the window outside. When the gloaming has passed and dark night
+settled down, the police come over from the barracks to see if any of
+the children have gone in beside the mother. This would be taking
+forcible possession, and some other process of law would be possible. To
+make assurance sure, the policeman puts his head close to the window,
+sees the widow's white face and wild eyes sitting in the dark alone, and
+the children sitting under the window, and then the party, with
+something like tears in their eyes, something very like pity in their
+hearts, go back to the barracks.
+
+I wonder how these things will end. It is not stubbornness, but
+helplessness and despair that makes them cling so to their homes,
+combined with an utter dread of the disgrace and separation involved in
+going to the workhouse. I listened to one tale after another of
+harassment, misery and thoughtless oppression in Kiltyclogher till my
+heart was sick, and I felt one desire--to run away that I might hear no
+more. I applied the traditional grain of salt to what I heard, but could
+not manage to add it to what I saw.
+
+Mr. Tottenham rules part of Kiltyclogher. This man has a very evil name
+among the tenants. Reclamation of land by very poor people is a very
+serious matter. Not only do the bogs require drains twenty-one feet
+apart and three deep (I have seen the people in the act of making such
+drains again and again); not only do the surface stones require to be
+gathered off, but great stones and immense boulders that obstruct the
+formation of the drains, have to be removed, and as they have no powder
+for blasting, they take the primitive method of kindling great fires
+over the rock and splitting it up that way, so that their husbandry is
+farming under difficulties. As the Fermanagh farmer said, they put their
+lives into it.
+
+In the long ago the landlords of Ireland, though extravagant, were not,
+as a class, unkindly, but their waste involved the land, and their
+absenteeism prevented any thoughts for the benefit of the country ever
+occurring to them.
+
+The commercial spirit has invaded the aristocracy and men have begun to
+see visions of redeeming their lands from encumbrances and to dream
+dreams of still greater aggrandizement, all to be realized by commercial
+tact in raising the rents and abolishing the long-suffering people who
+could not be squeezed any farther. It was then that the beginning of the
+present desperate state of things was inaugurated. I do not think the
+landlords deliberately meant to oppress. I think they looked to the one
+thing, raising their rental, increasing their income, and went over
+everything, through everything to the desired end. They have succeeded
+in making a wide separation between the land-holding and land-tilling
+classes. It will be a difficult matter to bring them together again.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII.
+
+A HARD LANDLORD INTERVIEWED--CONFLICTING STATEMENTS--COLD STEEL.
+
+
+The morning after our return to Manor Hamilton, Mr. Corscadden called
+on me in response to my note asking for an interview. I had formed a
+mental picture of what this gentleman would be like from the description
+I had heard of his actions. I found him very different. An elderly man,
+tall, gray-haired, soft-spoken, with a certain hesitation of manner,
+dressed like a better class-farmer, eyes that looked you square in the
+face without flinching, and yet had a kindly expression. This was Mr.
+Corscadden. I need not say he was not the man I expected him to be.
+
+He, very kindly indeed, entered into an explanation of his management of
+this property since it fell into his hands. He mentioned, by the way,
+that he was a man of the people; had risen to his present position by
+industry and stern thrift; what he had he owed, under the blessing of
+God, to his own exertions and economy. He declared that he ruled his
+conduct to his tenants by what he should wish to be done to himself if
+in their place.
+
+He then took up the case of one tenant, James Gilray, who waited on him
+to enquire, "What are you going to do with me?" This man, according to
+Mr. Corscadden's statement, owed three years' rent, amounting to L30;
+owed L15 additional money paid into the bank for him; owed L6 for a
+field, "for which I used to get L11 to L12." "Now," said Mr. Corscadden
+to him, "what do you want?" "I want," said the man, "to have my place at
+the former rent." "Do you," said Mr. Corscadden, "want your land at what
+it was 118 years ago? Land has raised in value five times since then."
+There is here a wide discrepancy between this statement of Mr.
+Corscadden's and the statement of another gentleman--not a tenant--who
+professed himself well acquainted with the subject. He said that before
+Mr. Corscadden bought the land the tenants had voluntarily increased the
+rent on themselves twice, for fear of passing out of the hands of the
+man they knew into the hands of a stranger; so that it was under a rack
+rent when Mr. Corscadden bought it.
+
+Another case referred to by Mr. Corscadden was that of a man to whom he
+had rented a farm of 20 acres at L16. He got one year's rent; two and a
+half years were due, when he served a writ of ejectment. Mr. Corscadden
+said to this man; "You are a bad farmer and you know it. You have about
+L150 worth of stock; I will give you L40; leave my place and go to
+America. He took the money," said the old gentleman pathetically, "and
+did not go to America, but rented another farm. The woman at Glenade
+whom you went to see I have kept--supported--for years. Her husband did
+not pay his rent, and I gave him L10 to pay his passage to America. He
+is a bad man. It is rumored that he has married another woman; his wife
+never hears from him."
+
+"It is wonderful, Mr. Corscadden," I remarked, "when you are so kind
+that you have such a bad name as a landlord. Mr. Tottenham and you are
+the most unpopular landlords in Leitrim."
+
+"I do not know why; I act as I would wish others to do to me. I do not
+forget that I have to give an account to the Holy One."
+
+"You are accused of wasting away the tenants, because cattle and sheep
+are more profitable than people."
+
+"I transferred two to places down near the sea and gave them better land
+than I took from them. I have been speaking about the others whom I paid
+to remove."
+
+"People complain that you took the mountain pasture from the tenants and
+then raised the rent of the remainder to double of what they had paid
+for all."
+
+"Not double, nearly double. As to the mountain, I called them together
+and proposed taking the mountain, as they had nothing to put on it; they
+had not a beast. They consented, at least they made no objections. I
+wanted the mountains for Scotch sheep. I put on about a hundred; there
+are few to be seen now; they have disappeared."
+
+He then mentioned the shooting at his son, the burning of the office
+houses with hay and potatoes stored there, the trouble he had had about
+the police hut which the constabulary had drawn to Glenade that morning.
+
+"That will cost the country as much as L500," said Mr. Corscadden. "They
+are unthrifty in this country, they eat all the large potatoes, plant
+all the little runts, till they have run out the seed." (Alas, what will
+not hunger do!) "They come into market with their butter in small
+quantities, wasting a day and sacrificing the butter." (Need again: time
+is wasted here, for labor is so plentiful and men are so cheap that time
+has no value in their eyes.)
+
+I asked Mr. Corscadden what he thought would be a remedy for this
+dreadful state of things. He did not see a remedy except emigration. Mr.
+Corscadden took his leave politely, wishing me a pleasant tour through
+my own country. I have as faithfully as possible recorded Mr.
+Corscadden's side of the story. The tenant's side I have softened
+considerably, and omitted some things altogether to be inside of the
+mark. One thing I forgot to mention: Mr. Corscadden said that the
+tenants might raise a couple of pigs or a heifer and pay the rent and
+have all the rest to themselves.
+
+I said, "When these bad years ending in one of positive famine have
+stripped the poorer tenants bare, and pigs are so dear, where could a
+poor man get thirty shillings to buy a sucking pig or buy provender to
+feed it?" This is true, the first step is the difficulty. They might do
+this, or this, or this, and it would be profitable, but where are the
+means to take the first step? It is easy to stand afar off and say, be
+economical, be industrious, and you will prosper. In the meantime pay up
+the back rent or get out of this and give place to better men. They tell
+me that Mr. LaTouche charges the poor creatures interest on all the back
+rent. Some who have paid their rent here did not--could not--raise it on
+their farms, but got it from friends in America.
+
+Mr. Corscadden asked me in the course of our conversation what I would
+consider a fair rent. I said I would consider the rent fair that was
+raised on the land for which rent was paid, leaving behind enough to
+live on, and something to spare, so that one bad season or two would not
+reduce the tenant to beggary.
+
+The fact of the matter is, and I would be false to my own conscience if
+I hesitated to say it, these people have been kept drained bare; the
+hard years reduced them to helpless poverty, and now the only remedy is
+to get rid of them altogether. The price of these military and police,
+the price of these special services rendered to unpopular landlords to
+aid them in grinding down these wretched people, spent to help them
+would go far to make prosperity possible to them once more. If they had
+a rent they could pay and live, the millstone of arrears taken from
+about their necks, I believe they would become both loyal and contented.
+Empty stomachs, bare clothing, lying hard and cold at night through
+poverty is trying to loyalty.
+
+The turbary nuisance is the great oppression of all. Want of food is
+bad, but want of fuel added to it! Forty years ago renting land meant
+getting a bit of bog in with the land. When there is a special charge
+for the privilege of cutting turf and the times so hard there is much
+additional suffering.
+
+In the famine time people getting relief had to travel for the ticket,
+travel to get the meal, and then go to gather whins or heather on the
+hills to cook it, and the hungry children waiting all the time. A
+respectable person said to me the famine was worst on respectable
+people, for looking for the red ticket and carrying it to get meal by it
+was like the pains of death.
+
+Wherever I went through Leitrim I saw people, scattered here and there,
+gathering twigs for fuel or coming toward home with their burden of
+twigs on their backs. I declare I thought often of the Israelites
+scattered through the fields of Egypt gathering stubble instead of
+straw. A tenant who objects to anything, who is not properly obedient
+and respectful, can have the screw turned upon him about the turf as
+well as about the rent.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII.
+
+THE MANOR HAMILTON WORKHOUSE--TO THE SOUTH AND WESTWARD--A CHANGE OF
+SCENERY--LORD PALMERSTON.
+
+
+Before leaving Manor Hamilton, I determined to see the poor-house, the
+last shelter for the evicted people. I was informed that it was
+conducted in a very economical manner. It is on the outskirts of the
+town. On my way there I went up a little hill to look at a picturesque
+Episcopalian church perched up there amid the trees, surrounded by a
+pretty, well-kept burying-ground. The church walls were ornamented with
+memorial slabs set in the wall commemorating people whose remains were
+not buried there. A pretty cottage stood by the gate, at the door of
+which a decent-looking woman sat sewing. I addressed a few questions to
+her as to the name of the pastor, the size of his flock, &c. Her answers
+were guarded--very.
+
+I made my way down the hill, and over to the workhouse. The grounds
+before the entrance were not laid out with the taste observable at
+Enniskillen. Perhaps they had not a professional gardener among their
+inmates. At the entrance a person was leaning against the door in an
+easy attitude. I enquired if I might be allowed to see through the
+workhouse. He answered by asking what my business was. I informed him
+that I was correspondent for a Canadian newspaper. He then enquired if
+the paper I wrote for was a Conservative paper. I replied that I would
+not describe it as a Conservative paper, but as a religious paper. He
+then said the matron was not at home, and I prepared to leave. I
+enquired first if he was the master. He replied in the affirmative, and
+then said he would get the porter to show me round. "You will show her
+through," he said, to a stout, heavy person sitting in the entry.
+
+This gentleman, who brought to my mind the estimable Jeremiah
+Flintwinch, accordingly showed me through the building. We passed the
+closed doors of the casual ward, where intending inmates were examined
+for admittance, and casuals were lodged for the night. Every door was
+unlocked to admit us and carefully locked behind us, conveying an idea
+of very prison-like administration. The able-bodied were at work, I
+suppose, for few were visible except women who were nursing children.
+There was a large number of patients in the infirmary wards. One man
+whose bed was on the floor was evidently very near the gate we all must
+enter. He never opened his eyes or seemed conscious of the presence of a
+stranger. I noticed a little boy lift the poor head to place it easier.
+I saw no one whom I could imagine was a nurse. The kindness and
+tenderness of the beggar nurses in the sick wards of the workhouse at
+Ballymena struck me forcibly. The absence of anything of the kind struck
+me forcibly in Manor Hamilton.
+
+The children in this workhouse were pretty numerous. They demanded
+something from me with the air of little footpads. The women were little
+better. I was told, pretty imperatively, to look in my pockets. One
+woman rushed after me half way up stairs as if she would compel a gift.
+Coming back with my throat full of feelings, I was directed to a little
+desk behind the door, where lay the book for visitors: I was shown the
+place where remarks were to be entered. I wrote my name standing, as
+there was no other way provided. I was hardly fit to write cool remarks.
+The locked doors, the nurses conspicuous by their absence, the
+importunate beggars, the absent matron, the whole establishment was far
+below anything of the kind I had yet seen in Ireland. One woman had made
+her appearance from some unexpected place, and explained to me with
+floury hands, that if she were not baking she would herself show me
+through the house.
+
+I think it is hard for struggling poverty to go down so far as to take
+shelter in the workhouse. It must be like the bitterness of death. I
+cannot imagine the feeling of any human beings when the big door clashes
+on them, the key turns, and they find themselves an inmate of the
+workhouse at Manor Hamilton. I do not wonder that the creatures starving
+outside preferred to suffer rather than go in. When I returned to the
+entrance the master had been joined by some others who were helping him
+to do nothing. He asked me over his shoulder what I thought of the
+house. I answered that it was a fine building, and walked down the
+avenue, wishing I was able to speak in a cool manner and to tell him
+what I thought of the house and of his management of the same.
+
+Left Manor Hamilton on the long car for Sligo. The long car is the
+unworthy successor of the defunct mail coach of blessed memory. It is an
+exaggerated jaunting car arranged on the wheels and axles of a lumber
+waggon and it is drawn by a span sometimes; in this case, by four
+horses. A female was waving her hands and shouting incoherent blessings
+after us as we started. It might be for me or it might be for the land
+agent, who sat on the same side. I smiled by way of willingness to
+accept it, for it is better to have a blessing slung after one than a
+curse or a big stone.
+
+Our road skirted Benbo (the hill of cattle), sacred now to rabbits and
+hares and any other small game that can shelter on its bald sides. Up
+hill and down hill, between hills and around hills, mountains of every
+shape and degree of bareness and baldness looking down at us over one
+another's shoulders as we drove along. An ambitious little peasant clung
+on behind with his hands, his little bare feet thudding on the smooth
+road and over the loose layer of sharp stones that lay edge upwards in
+places. He thought he was taking a ride. We passed small fields of
+reclaimed bog, where ragged men were planting potatoes in narrow ridges.
+We passed the brown fields where nothing will be planted; passed the
+small donkeys with their big loads; passed green meadows on a small
+scale; in places here and there, passed the houses, dark, damp and
+unwholesome, where these people live.
+
+After we had rumbled on for some miles, enjoying blinks of cold
+sunshine, enduring heavy scudding showers, the landscape began to soften
+considerably. The grass grew green instead of olive, and trees clustered
+along the road. Umbrageous sycamores, claiming kindred with our maples,
+began to stand along the road singly and in clusters. We were still in a
+valley bounded by mountains, but the hill-sides waved with dark green
+and light green foliage, where the fir stretched upward tall plumes and
+the larch shook downward tasseled streamers. The green of the fields
+became greener and richer, the dark sterile moss-covered mountains
+retreated and frowned at us from the distance; we were leaving the
+hungry hills of north Leitrim for the pleasant valleys that lie smiling
+around Sligo.
+
+The trees grew larger, the sycamores massed together in their full
+leafiness, bringing visions of a sugar bush in the time of leaves; they
+were mingled with the delicious green of the newly-leaved beech. The
+round-headed chestnuts, with their clustered leaves, were covered with
+tall spikes of blossom like the tapers on an overgrown Christmas tree.
+The ash and oak are shaking out their leaves tardily; the orchards are
+white with the bridal bloom of May. The fields are flocked with myriads
+of happy eyed daisies, the ditch backs glowing with golden blossoms. My
+eyes make me wealthy with looking at beauty.
+
+We are nearing the town, for the woodland wealth is enclosed behind high
+walls. Grand houses peep from among the branches; trim lodges, ivy-
+garnished, sit at the gates, glimpses of gardens are seen, all the
+wealth of leafage and blossoming that fertility spreads over the land
+when spring breathes is here. In a glow of sunshine after the rain--
+smiles after tears--we enter Sligo.
+
+We draw up in the open street, everyone alights from our elevation as
+they can. No one takes notice of any other by way of help. Each gets off
+and goes his several way. The land agent, who has sat in high-bred
+silence all the way, pays his fare and goes off on the car that awaits
+him. The rest disperse. I pay my fare. The driver asks to be remembered.
+I mentally wonder what for. I paid a porter to place my bag on the car.
+I got up as I could, I scramble down as I may. I will pay another porter
+to take me to a hotel. The driver's whip takes as much notice of me as
+he does. Why in the world should I remember him? It is part of a system
+of imposition and it would be rank communism to find fault, so I
+remember him; he thanks me, and this little game of give and take ends.
+
+Installed in the Imperial Hotel I send off my one letter of
+introduction, which remains. Discover the post office, find no letters,
+return and sit down to write across the water. The lady proprietor of
+the Imperial Hotel has been across the Atlantic and has a warm feeling
+toward the inhabitants of the great republic; she shares the benefit of
+this feeling with the wandering Canadian and takes us out to see Sligo.
+
+Gladly do we lay down the pen to look Sligo straight in the face. Sligo
+looks nice and clean. Belfast is large, prosperous, beautiful; but many
+of her fine buildings and public monuments look as if they required to
+have their faces washed, but Sligo buildings are fair and clean. We pass
+a rather nice building, suppose it a school, but we are informed it is
+the rent-office of the late Lord Palmerston. That astute nobleman showed
+his usual good sense, if it was his choice, to own lands in the sunny
+vales of Sligo instead of the hungry hills of Leitrim. If some have
+greatness thrust upon them, some in the same way inherit lands. Out of
+the town we went, and climbed up a grassy eminence; with some difficulty
+got upon the "topmost tow'ring height" of an old earthwork--blamed on
+the Danes of course; everything unknown is laid on them. The square
+shape, the remains of the ditch that surrounds it look too much like
+modern modes of fortification not to have a suspiciously British look.
+Of course we are both delightfully ignorant on the subject.
+
+The scenery from our elevated position is glorious. At our feet Sligo,
+all her buildings, churches and convents white in the sunshine, around
+her the fairest of green fields; the blue waters of Lough Gill sparkling
+and glancing from among trees of every variety that in spring put on a
+mantle of leaves. On every side but the gate of the west through which
+we see a misty glance of the far Atlantic, Sligo has mountains standing
+sentry around her. One, Knock-na-rea, is seen from a great distance, a
+long mountain with a little mountain on her breast. The bells were
+chiming musically, the sound floating up to where we stood. Below us, on
+the other side of the old earthwork, a little apart from one another,
+stood two great buildings, that are so necessary here, the poor-house
+and the lunatic asylum. These magnificent and extensive buildings must
+have cost an immense sum. The asylum has been enlarged recently, as the
+freshly-cut stone and white mortar of one wing testified.
+
+As I looked, a band struck up familiar airs. We saw them standing in a
+field beside the asylum. I was told that the band was composed of
+patients. This made the music more thrilling. When they struck up "Auld
+Lang Syne," or "There Is no Luck About the House," there was a wail in
+it to my ears, after home, happiness and reason. We got down from our
+high position and came home by another way, passing through some of the
+poorer streets of Sligo, which are kept scrupulously clean. Even here
+women and girls were gathering sticks to cook the handful of meal. The
+poor are very poor on the bare hills of Leitrim, or in this green valley
+of Sligo.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX.
+
+ON LOUGH GILL--TWO MEN--STAMPEDE FROM SLIGO--THE ANCIENT AND THE
+MODERN.
+
+
+I was a little disappointed that I was getting no information on any
+side of the question of the day, and my letters which were to be sent to
+Sligo not coming to hand, I was advised to go down the beautiful Lough
+Gill to Drumahaire to see the ruins of Brefni Castle, the place from
+which the fair wife of the O'Ruarke, Prince of Brefni, fled with
+McMurrough, which was the cause of the Saxon first gripping green Erin.
+I thought I might as well, and set out to walk to the boat landing, a
+good _billie_ out of Sligo, along the street, past small tenement
+houses inhabited by laborers, who do not always obtain work, past the
+big gloomy gaol, past the dead wall and the high bank on the top of
+which goats are browsing, down to the landing beside the closely-locked
+iron gate, and the little lodge sitting among the trees behind it,
+belonging to the property of a Captain Wood Martin. Had the felicity,
+while yet some way off, of seeing the shabby little boat cast off the
+rope and puff herself and paddle herself slowly off down the lake.
+
+Coming back a very pretty girl electrified me by informing me that I was
+from America. She advised me to take a small boat and have a sail on
+Lough Gill, for I would always regret it if I did not see its beauty
+when I had the opportunity. In her excessive kindness she introduced me
+to a river maiden, strong and comely, who would row me about with all
+kindness for a small consideration. Prudently discovered what the
+consideration was to be, and then gave in to the arrangement.
+
+The water nymph had been away gathering sticks; she had to empty her
+boat and I waited a little impatiently, a little ruefully. The boat was
+big, clumsy and leaky, but the girl was eloquent and eager to persuade
+me it was a fast and comfortable boat. She produced an ancient cushion
+from somewhere; there was a clumsy getting on board, and she pushed off.
+We went sailing down among the swans, the coots and the rushes, and
+passed little tree-laden islands, hooped with stone wall for fear they
+might be washed away. The sun shone pleasantly, the swans floated on
+majestically, or solemnly dived for our pleasure, the coots skimmed
+about knowing well we had not often enjoyed the pleasure of watching
+them. The grand woods that encompass the residence of Wynne of Hazelwood
+spread out over many, many acres, caught the sunlight on one side. The
+broad green meadows of Captain Wood Martin lying among the trees looked
+like visions of Eden on the other. My river maiden discovered to me a
+swan's nest among the reeds; told me stories of the fierceness of
+brooding swans, and offered to get me a swan's egg for a curiosity,
+nevertheless.
+
+Remarking to her that Captain Wood Martin kept his grounds locked up
+very carefully; enquired what should happen if we drew ashore and landed
+on his tabooed domain. The water maiden said one of his men would turn
+us out. Enquired if he was a good landlord. "Oh, sure he has ne'er a
+tenant at all at all on his whole place; it does be all grazing land. He
+takes cattle to graze. He charges L2 a year for a yearling and L5 a year
+for a four-year-old, and he has cattle of his own on it." How do you
+know the price? "Sure I read it on the handbills posted up."
+
+Looking at the other side of the glorious lake, at the long thicket of
+trees that shades the demesne that Wynne of Hazelwood keeps for his home
+and glory, stretching over miles of country; saw the little grey
+rabbits, more precious than men in my native land, that were hopping
+along, after their manner, quite a little procession of them, at the
+edge of the bush; and said, "What kind of a landlord does Wynne of
+Hazelwood make?" "Is it Mr. Wynne, ma'am? Oh, then, sure it's him that
+is the good landlord and the good man out and out. He is a good man, a
+very good man, and no mistake." "Why, what makes you think him such a
+good man?" "Because he never does a mane or durty action; he's a
+gentleman entirely." "Come now, you tell me what he does not do; if you
+want me to believe in your Mr. Wynne, tell me some good thing he has
+done." "I can soon do that, ma'am," said my water maiden. "Last winter
+was a hard winter; the work was scarce, and the poor people would have
+starved for want of fire but for Mr. Wynne of Hazelwood." "He let you
+gather sticks in his woods, then?" "He did more than that; he cut down
+trees on purpose for the people, and we drew them over the ice, for the
+lough was frozen over. We had no fire in our house all last winter, and
+it was a cold one, but what we got that way from Mr. Wynne." Mr. Wynne's
+eloquent advocate rowed along the lake close in shore, for fear of any
+doubt resting on my mind, and showed the stumps of the trees, cut very
+close to the ground, a great many of them indeed, as a proof of Mr.
+Wynne's thoughtful generosity.
+
+We rowed along over the laughing waters among the pretty islands, and
+finally pulled ashore on the Hazelwood demesne and landed. We walked
+round a little bit, filling our eyes with beauty; feloniously abstracted
+a few wild flowers and a fir cone or two, and reluctantly left
+Hazelwood. Now this gentleman was not a perceptible whit the poorer for
+all the cottage homes that were warmed by his bounty--yes, and hearts
+were warmed, too, through the dreary winter. "Blessed is he that
+considereth the poor." There is riches for you--oh master of Hazelwood!
+
+The emigration from Sligo amounts to a stampede now. How many more would
+leave the island that has no place for them, if they only had the means?
+
+I missed that Drumahaire boat no less than three times--that is, she
+was either gone before the time when she was said to go, or was lying
+quietly at the wharf, having made up her mind not to stir that day. She
+seemed to have no stated time for going or coming, or if she had, to
+keep it as secret as an eviction, for no one could be found to speak
+with certainty of her movements. When disappointed for the third time,
+my very kind friend, Mrs. O'Donell, of the Imperial Hotel, took me on
+her own car to Drumahaire. We drove completely round lovely Lough Gill,
+seeing it from many points of view. Sligo is not altogether a garden of
+Eden, for we passed a great deal of poor stony barren land here and
+there during this journey. Like all hilly land, there are pretty vales
+among the hills and fair, broad fields here and there, but there is much
+barren and almost worthless soil.
+
+Now, there is one thing that has struck me forcibly since I came to
+Ireland. I saw it in Down, Antrim, Derry, Donegal, wherever I have been
+as well as in Sligo. The poorer and more worthless the land, there were
+the tenants' houses the thickest. The good land has been monopolized to
+an immense extent for lands laid out for grandeur and glory--and they
+are grand and gloriously beautiful. Then pride and fashion demand that
+the mountain commons be reserved for game, that is, rabbits. A man must
+have extensive wilds to shoot over, so the poor laborers are huddled
+into houses--awful hutches without gardens, and the poor farmers are
+clustered on barren soil, trying to force nature to allow them to live
+after paying the rent.
+
+We got to Drumahaire, stopped at a dandy iron gate beyond which the
+turrets of Brefni Castle were waving funereal banners of ivy, entered
+and found ourselves in a private domain. Here in the shadow of the old
+castle was the handsome modern cottage, extensive and stylish, inhabited
+by Mr. Latouche, the agent so much dreaded, so much hated in Northern
+Leitrim. This is the gentleman who is accused of charging the tenants
+10s. 6d. for potatoes which the landlord sent down to be given to the
+tenants at five. If racking the tenantry is the condition on which he
+gets this lovely home, it is a temptation certainly. We felt as if we
+were in the wrong place, as, after glancing at the handsome cottage, the
+trim lawn fringed with shrubbery and then at the ruins we took the lower
+walk hoping to get round under the shelter of some trees to the ruins. A
+small river brawled over the stones below--far below where we were
+walking. A detached portion of the ruins sitting on a rock overlooked
+both us and the river. Was it in any part of this building that the
+naughty lady watched for her lover?
+
+A little further on we looked down some steps into gardens stretching
+along beside the river--gardens blazing with flowers and sweet with
+blossomed fruit trees. It was so unexpected, so splendidly beautiful, it
+surpassed a dream of fairy-land. We passed on, saw a shadowy lady among
+the flowers on the lawn, knew it was the wraith of the unhappy and
+guilty Dearvorgill. Stole out of the farther gate--at least I did--
+feeling naughty and intrusive. Found ourselves in the clean little town
+of Drumahaire, a pretty little village, straggled over a hillside among
+the trees.
+
+Went into a shop to enquire for the veritable Brefni Castle. A sad and
+hungry-looking man scenting a possible sixpence started forward as
+guide. He piloted us back by the way we came into the ruins we had
+passed. Was determined to see visions and dream dreams amid these
+historical ruins. Alas, it was a disgraceful failure. Not only was the
+back of the modern tyrannical cottage laid up against the tyrannical
+castle of history, but the ancient and modern were dovetailed into one
+another, trying to bewilder you as to where ancient history and legend
+ended, and modern anecdote began. We looked into the great hall with its
+deep fire-place at the side, and upwards where another stately apartment
+had once been, a lofty presence room over the great hall, but the week's
+wash of the La Touches was flapping in the wind that moaned through the
+deserted halls of the O'Ruarke. Looked into a tower to find a peat
+stack, climbed over a load of coal to see the withdrawing room of the
+departed, but not forgotten great lady, or the kitchen that cooked for
+the men-at-arms, who waited on the lord's behest. Peeped into a turret
+and was insolently asked what we meant by a splendid but ill-tongued
+peacock; admired the ivy green that happed the bare walls and noticed
+that the chickens roosted there in its shelter.
+
+We drove home by another way, among gay, green woods under the shelter
+of mighty rocks, passed more ruins. We stopped to examine these older
+ruins of the ancient O'Ruarkes. A Milesian gentleman showed us through
+them. It is the correct thing to have a ruin on your place; it is a kind
+of patent of gentility. If a banshee could be thrown in along with a
+ruin, a new man would give a great price for an old place. But banshees
+are getting scarce and decline to be caught. This ruin has been patched
+over, clumsily but earnestly, so that hardly a speck of the original
+ruin is left. It was delightful to listen to our Milesian guide. My
+companion was bound to get some information out of him. He was cautious,
+not knowing who we were or what design we might have to entangle him in
+his talk; he was determined that he would not give the desired
+information. He conquered. The ruins were not worth sixpence altogether
+to look at, but I gave him sixpence as a tribute to genius. And so in
+the dim evening we drove back to Sligo.
+
+
+
+
+XXX.
+
+SLIGO'S GOOD LANDLORDS--THE POLICE AND THEIR DUTIES--A DOUBTFUL
+COMPLIMENT--AN AMAZON.
+
+
+It has been something wonderful to me that when I left Leitrim, I
+seemed to have left all bad landlords behind me. Every one I came in
+contact with in Sligo, rich or poor, had something to say about a good
+landlord. Some were thoughtfully kind and considerate, of which they
+gave me numerous instances; others if the kind actions were unknown,
+positively unkind ones were unknown also, so their portraits came out in
+neutral tints. I conversed with high Tories and admirers of the Land
+League, but heard only praise of Sligo's lords of the soil. I thought I
+should leave Sligo, believing it an exceptional place, but just before I
+left I heard two persons speak of one bad landlord of Sligo.
+
+On May 18th I left the green valleys of Sligo behind and took passage on
+the long car for Ballina. I found that the long car was to be shared
+with a contingent of police, who were returning to their several
+stations after lawfully prowling round the country protecting bailiffs
+and process-servers in their unpopular work. I cannot believe that these
+quiet, repressed conservators of the peace can possibly feel proud of
+their duties. These duties must often--and very often--be repugnant to
+the heart of any man who has a heart, and I suppose the majority of them
+have hearts behind their trim jackets. I liked to look at these men,
+they are so trim, clean, self-respectful. They have also a well-fed
+appearance, which is comfortable to notice after looking at the hungry-
+looking, tattered people, from whom they protect the bailiffs.
+
+We passed Balasodare--I did not stop, for I felt that it was better to
+get this disagreeable journey over at once.
+
+We stopped at a place called Dromore west, to change horses and to
+change cars. We had dropped the police, a few at a time, as we came
+along, so that now the car was not by any means crowded. We all stood on
+the road while the change of horses was being made. It was slow work,
+and I went into a shop near to ask for a glass of water. The mistress of
+the shop enquired if I would take milk. I assented, and was served with
+a brimming tumbler of excellent milk. Payment was refused, and as I
+turned to leave, I was favored with a subdued groan from the women
+assembled in the shop. Evidently they thought I was some tyrant who
+required the protection of the police. It would not flatter me--not
+much--to be taken for some landholders here.
+
+When my police fellow-voyagers were dropped at their comfortable white
+barracks here and there, and only one was left, we fell into
+conversation to beguile the time. He had been at one time on duty in
+Donegal and knew how matters were there, from his point of view, better
+than I did. We spoke of Captain Dopping, and his opinion of him was if
+anything lower than mine. He expressed great thankfulness that guarding
+the Captain had never been his duty. Whether he disliked it from moral
+causes, or for fear of intercepting in his own person a stray bullet
+intended for the gallant captain, he did not say.
+
+Arrived at Ballina after a long, tiresome journey, yet like everything
+else in this world it had its compensations. Ballina is a kind of
+seaport town, in the Rip Van Winkle way. An inlet from Killala Bay
+called the Moy runs up to the town. There is no stir on the water, no
+perceptible merchandise on the quay. One dull steamboat painted black,
+in mourning for the traffic and bustle of life that ought to be there,
+slides out on its way to Liverpool and creeps back again cannily. Unless
+you see this steamboat I can testify that you might put up quite a while
+at Ballina and never hear its existence mentioned, so it cannot be of
+much account. The streets are thronged with barefoot women and ragged
+lads with their threepenny loads of turf. The patient ass, with his
+straw harness and creels, is the prevailing beast of burden everywhere I
+have travelled since I entered Enniskillen with the exception of Sligo.
+
+Sligo town, like Belfast in a lesser degree, has the appearance of
+having something to do and of paying the people something who do it. The
+traders who come to Ballina market seem to trade in a small way as at
+Manor Hamilton. Still, the town is handsome and clean, a large part of
+the population, prosperous-looking, in an easy going way, the ladies
+fine-looking and well dressed. One wonders what supports all this, for
+the business of the town seems of little account.
+
+Spent a Sunday here and after church became aware that the too, too
+celebrated Miss Gardiner, with her friend Miss Pringle, had arrived at
+the hotel on their way to Dublin, on evictions bent. The police had
+marched out in the evening to her place to protect her in. I was eager
+to see this lady, who enjoys a world-wide fame, so sent her my card
+requesting an interview, which she declined. I caught a glimpse of her
+in the hall as she passed out with her friend and guard. She is a very
+stout, loud-voiced lady, not pretty. The bulge made by the pistols she
+carries was quite noticeable. "Arrah, why do you want to see either of
+them," said a maiden to me. "Sure they both of thim drink like dragons"--
+dragoons she meant, I suppose--"an' swear like troopers, an' fight like
+cats." This was a queer bit of news to me. I did not take any notice of
+it at that time; but, dear me, it is as common news as the paving
+stories on the street.
+
+Miss Gardiner is almost constantly at law with her tenants, lives in a
+state of siege, maintains, at the cost of the country, an armed body
+guard, and is doing her very best to embroil the country in her efforts
+to clear the tenants off her property. At the Ballycastle petty sessions
+a woman summoned by this lady for overholding, as they call it, appeared
+by her son and pleaded that she had been illegally evicted. Miss
+Gardiner told them they might do what they liked, but she must get her
+house. Now this house never cost Miss Gardiner a farthing for repairs
+nor for erection, and it is all the house the wretched creatures have,
+and, of course, they hold to it as long as they are able. The priest
+attempted to put in a word for the woman, and was unmercifully snubbed
+by the bench. In Miss Gardiner's next case, the bench decided that the
+service was illegal. Miss Gardiner then called out, "I now demand
+possession of you in the presence of the court." The bench would not
+accept this notice as legal. She had a great many cases and gained them
+all but this one. This particular Sunday when I had the honor of seeing
+her she was bound for Dublin on eviction business.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI.
+
+KILLALA--THE CANADIAN GRANT TO THE FAMINE FUND AND WHAT IT HAS DONE--
+BALLYSAKEERY--THREE LANDLORDS--A LANDLORD'S INTERESTING STATEMENT.
+
+
+I had the very great pleasure of a drive to the ancient town of
+Killala, accompanied by the wife of the Rev. Mr. Armstrong, who
+superintends the orphanage and the mission schools in connection with
+the Presbyterian Church of Ballina. Killala is an old town with a gentle
+flavor of decay about it. It has a round tower in good preservation, and
+an ancient church. I was shown the point where the French landed at the
+stirring time of war and rebellion.
+
+It makes my heart glad to hear in so many places of the benefit the
+Canadian grant has been to this suffering country. I heard with great
+pleasure of fishing boats along the coast named Montreal, Toronto and
+other Canadian names in affectionate remembrance of the Canadian dollars
+that paid for them. This grant has been a means of convincing the people
+that there is such a place as Canada. The peasant mind had a sort of
+belief that America consisted of two large towns, New York and
+Philadelphia. In one instance the Canadian paid nets arrived on
+Thursday; they were in the water on Saturday, and many boats returned
+laden with mackerel. So great a capture had not been remembered for many
+years. In one locality where the nets given were valued for less than
+L200, it was proved that the boats had brought in during four weeks over
+L1,200 worth of mackerel.
+
+After we had taken a view of Killala we had a pleasant interview with
+the good minister at Ballysakeery. Here we received one of those
+welcomes that cheer the travellers' way and leave a warm remembrance
+behind. The famine pressed hard upon Mayo. Many respectable people were
+obliged to accept relief in the form of necessary food, seed potatoes
+and seed oats. It is a noticeable fact that here, as in Leitrim--that
+part at least of Leitrim in which I made investigations--the landlords
+in a body held back from giving any help to the starving people on their
+lands. Sir Roger Palmer gave potatoes to his tenants and sold them meal
+at the lowest possible figure, thus saving them from having the
+millstone of Gombeen tied round their neck. Sir Charles Gore, a resident
+landlord, has the name of generosity at this time of want, and justice
+at all times, which is better to be chosen than great riches. The Earl
+of Arran, who has drawn a large income, he and his ancestors, from this
+part of Mayo for which they paid nothing, not only gave nothing but gave
+no reply whatever to letters asking for help.
+
+The land belonging to the Earl of Arran here--I cannot undertake to
+write the name of the locality by the sound--was a common waste and was
+let by the Earl at two shillings and sixpence per acre to Presbyterian
+tenants, who came here from the North I believe. Of course they had to
+reclaim, fence, drain, cultivate for years. They built dwellings and
+office houses, built their lives into the place. After they had spent
+the toil of years on improvement, their rents were raised to seven and
+sixpence per acre, five shillings at one rise; then it was raised to ten
+shillings; the next rise was to fifteen shillings and then to twenty.
+The land is not now able to bear more than fourteen shillings an acre
+rent and support the people who till it. These people have been paying a
+rack rent for years to this nobleman, the Earl of Arran, yet when
+starvation overtook them, he had neither helping hand nor feeling heart
+for them.
+
+The distress of this last famine was so great in this corner of Mayo
+that people on holdings of thirty acres were starving--would have died
+but for the relief afforded. It takes some time--and more than one good
+harvest--for people who have got to starvation to recover themselves
+far enough to pay arrears of rent.
+
+We visited the ruins of Moyne Abbey, which are in good preservation yet.
+One of the present lords of the soil had a part of it made habitable and
+lived there some time, but it is again unroofed and left to desolation.
+It has been a very extensive building, stretching over a great extent of
+land now cleared of ruins. What remains is still imposing.
+
+We had a pleasant interview with the Rev. Mr. Nolan, the kind and
+patriotic priest of this neighborhood, and we returned to Ballina as
+gratified and as tired as children after a holiday excursion.
+
+I was introduced at Ballina to a landlord, a fine, clever-looking man,
+with that particularly well-kept and well-fed appearance which is as
+characteristic of the upper classes in Ireland as a hunger-bitten,
+hunted look is characteristic of the poor. I would not like to employ as
+strong language in speaking of the wrongs of the tenantry as this
+gentleman used to me. He is both landlord and agent. He condemned all
+the policy of the Government toward Ireland in no measured terms. Spoke
+of the emigration that is going on now, as well as the emigration that
+had taken place after the last famine, as men going out to be educated
+for and to watch for the time of retribution. Retribution for the
+accumulated wrongs which mis-government had heaped upon Ireland he
+looked upon as inevitable, as coming down the years slowly but surely to
+the place of meeting and of paying to the uttermost farthing. Well, now,
+these are queer sentiments for a landlord to hold and to utter publicly.
+He acknowledged freely that a great part--a very great part--of the
+excessive rents extorted on pain of eviction, the eviction taking place
+when the unfortunate fell behind, were really premiums paid on their own
+labor. Furthermore, he acknowledged that he himself had raised the
+tenants' rents on the estates for which he was agent, compelling them to
+pay smartly for the work of their own hands. He spoke highly of the
+people as a whole, of their patience, their kindliness to one another,
+and their piety. He spoke of the case of one man, a peasant, who could
+only speak broken English, who came under his notice by coming to him to
+sell rye-grass to make up his rent. This man with the imperfect English
+was a tenant of the gentleman's brother. He held three acres, two roods
+of land in one place at a rent of L7 5s, where his house stood; one
+acre, at L1 4s. Of course he or his ancestors built the house. His poor
+rate and county cess is 16s, or $46.25 yearly for four acres, two roods
+of land. If they got it for nothing they could not live on it, say some.
+The best manure that can be put upon land is to salt it well with rent,
+say Mr. Tottenham and Mr. Corscadden. Well, this man since the famine,
+has no stock but one ass and a few hens. He cut and saved his rye-grass
+himself, sold it for L3 10s, sold his oats for L3 4s 6d; had nothing
+more to sell; had remaining for his wife and two little ones a little
+meal and potatoes. He is a year and a half behind in his rent, and
+likely, after all his toil and struggle, to be set on the roadside with
+the rest. He has no bog near, there is none nearer than over five miles,
+except some belonging to Miss Gardiner. Of course that mild and sober
+spinster that will not oblige her own tenants has nothing in the way of
+favor for outsiders. It took him twelve days last year to make
+sufficient turf to keep the hearth warm. He went to the bog in the
+morning on his breakfast of dry stirabout, with a bit of cold stirabout
+in his pocket to keep off the hungry grass, as the peasant calls
+famished pains, and walked home to his dry stirabout at night, having
+walked going and coming eleven Irish miles over and above his day's
+work. He drew home seventy ass loads of turf at the rate of two loads
+per day--twenty-two Irish miles of a walk. Let Christians imagine this
+man at his toil in his thin clothing, poor diet and bed of straw with
+scanty coverlet, toiling early and late to pay an unjust rent. Often
+after his hard day's work he has gone out at night with the fishers and
+toiled all night in hopes of adding something to his scanty stores. Said
+the landlord, "The vilest criminal could not have a harder life than
+this God-fearing uncomplaining peasant. What I tell you I drew from him,
+for he made no complaint." "You have a hard life of it, my man," said
+the landlord to him. He was not his tenant. "Well, sir, sure God is good
+and knows best," was the man's answer.
+
+I was very much astonished at this gentleman's narrative and his other
+admissions, and I ventured to enquire for my own satisfaction had he
+made restitution to the tenants. "Have you, sir, restored what you have
+robbed?" I did not suggest the four-fold which is the rule of that Book
+which we acknowledge as a guide and law-giver. "I am doing so," he
+replied, and he handed me a printed address to the tenants, offering
+twenty-five percent reduction on arrears, if paid within a certain time.
+Now, I was very much interested in this gentleman and in his opinions,
+but I could not bring myself to agree with him that this was
+restitution. However, I state the matter and leave it to that
+enlightened jury, the readers of the _Witness_, "too large to pack
+at any rate," and let them give their decision. I think myself that a
+little of the Sermon on the Mount, applied conscientiously, would be
+good for those who hold the happiness of Ireland in their hands. When
+justice becomes loud-voiced and likely to pass into vengeance, they talk
+of giving a little as charity.
+
+
+
+
+XXXII.
+
+THE STORY OF AN EVICTION.
+
+
+On the 20th of May I received a whisper of an eviction that was to
+occur up in the neighborhood of the Ox Mountains. Great opposition was
+expected, and therefore a large force of police was to be there. I
+procured a car, and in company with the local editor went to see. The
+landlord of this property is an absentee; the agent--a Mr. Irwin--lived
+in a pleasant residence which we passed on our way. We noticed that it
+was sheepshearing time at his place, and many sheep were in the act of
+losing their winter covering.
+
+After we left Ballina behind, and followed in the wake of the police for
+some time, we seemed to have got into the "stony streak." Such land!
+Small fields--pocket handkerchiefs of fields--the stones gathered off
+them built into perfect ramparts around them! I enquired of one
+gentleman what was the rent exacted for this land so weighted down with
+stones--for in addition to the high, broad fences surrounding the little
+fields some of them had cairns of stones built up in the middle of them.
+He said thirty shillings an acre ($7.50); asked another who said fifteen
+($3.75). I fancy one would need to see the office receipts to know
+correctly.
+
+There is little cultivation in this part of the country. Hopeless-
+looking ragged men, and barefoot ragged women, were at work in the
+fields; little ragged children peeped from the wretched houses at the
+police as they passed. And indeed they were a fine squad of broad-
+shouldered, good-looking men, heavily-armed, marching along, square and
+soldier-like, with a long, swinging step that goes over the ground
+quickly.
+
+We followed them up a stone-fenced lane just wide enough for the car to
+pass. As we went along, men working at building a stone wall, looked at
+the procession with a cowed frightened look. Our carman gave them the
+"God save you" in Irish, and in answering they turned on us surely the
+weariest faces that ever sat on mortal man. The lane becoming narrower,
+we soon had to leave the car and follow the police on foot through a
+pasture sprinkled with daisies.
+
+Suddenly we saw the police scatter, sit down on the ditch and light
+their pipes, throw themselves on the grass, group themselves in two's
+and three's here and there. The end of the journey was reached.
+
+We looked round for the wild men of Mayo from whom the bailiff, sub-
+sheriff, and agent were to be protected, who were, I was told, to shed
+rivers of blood that day. They were conspicuous by their absence. There
+were three or four dejected-looking men standing humbly a bit off, three
+women sitting among the bushes up the slope, that was all. The house
+where the eviction was to be held was a miserable hovel, whose roof did
+not amount to much, sitting among untilled fields, with a small dung
+heap before the door. It was shut up, silent and deserted.
+
+The bailiff, a gentleman who, if ever he is accused of crime, will not
+find his face plead for him much, broke open the door and began to throw
+out the furniture on the heap before the door. Here are the items: One
+iron pot, one rusty tin pail, two delf bowls,--I noticed them
+particularly, for they rolled down the dungheap on the side where I
+stood,--one rheumatic chest, one rickety table, one armful of
+disreputable straw, and one ragged coverlet. This was supposed to be the
+bed, for I saw no bedstead; there was no chair, no stool, or seat of any
+kind. The sub-sheriff with the bailiff's assistance fastened the door
+with a padlock. He handed the agent a tuft of grass as giving him
+possession, and the eviction was over.
+
+The agent--a large-featured man--seemed undecided as to whether he would
+view the transaction in a humorous light or as a scene where he was
+chief sufferer. He came forward and offered some rambling remarks
+addressed to nobody in particular. He drew our attention to the
+condition of the roof which needed renewing, to the fields that were
+uncropped. This was certainly shiftless, but when he mentioned that the
+man had gone to England "in the scarcity" to look for work, and was
+lying sick in an English hospital, we did not see how he could help it.
+He told us how bad the man was; how he pitied his wife, who was, he
+said, worse than himself. She was not present, being from home when her
+poor furniture was pitched out. He lamented over the fact that this man
+had sent him nothing of his wages, while another man had sent him as
+much as thirty pounds. He then went into details of these evicted
+tenant's married life; how his wife and he lived, and how they agreed;
+and rambled off into general philosophic remarks rather disagreeable and
+nasty.
+
+No one seemed to pay any attention, although he looked from one to
+another for an answering smile of appreciation to his funny attempts to
+justify himself and amuse his hearers. Some one asked him how much rent
+was due; he said ten or eleven years. Two years were due, as we found by
+the law papers on returning to Ballina. He then made an attack on the
+poor men standing there, asking why they were not at home working, and
+telling them what they should be doing. While he lectured these men in a
+joking voice, he turned his eye from one to another of those present as
+if he were seeking for applause.
+
+These men, not heeding the agent, were presenting a petition to the sub-
+sheriff. I drew near to learn what it was. They were thin, listless
+looking witted men. One could not help wondering when they had last
+eaten a square meal. Half-starved in look, wretched in clothing, stood
+like criminals awaiting sentence, with dreadfully eager eyes and parched
+lips that would not draw together over their teeth, before the plump
+rosy sub-sheriff. They asked for some meal on credit which the sub-
+sheriff refused. I asked them if they owed any rent. No, they did not
+owe a penny of rent, they said. Remember there was only one harvest
+between them and the famine year. They had also put in the crops in
+their little holdings, they said, "but as God lives we have neither bite
+nor sup to keep us till harvest time." The sub-sheriff asked why they
+did not go to a certain dealer. They said the terms were so hard that
+they could never pay him. "How much would keep you till the crops come
+in," he asked. Two hundred of Indian meal for each they said. Finally he
+promised them one hundred each on credit, even if he had to pay it out
+of his own pocket. "That is what you will have to do," said the agent.
+
+We left and drove home. We saw the police, hot and tired, march past to
+their barracks after our return. These men had a long march, loaded down
+with arms to protect the bailiff, the stalwart agent, the rosy sub-
+sheriff from a crowd of five hunger-bitten peaceable men and three
+ragged women. The whole crowd might have been put to flight by any one
+of the three with one hand tied behind him.
+
+I forgot to mention that the agent offered to one of the women there all
+the tenant's poor things that were thrown out, which was an honest and
+honorable proceeding on his part, and very generous.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII.
+
+A SEVERE CRITICISM JUSTIFIED--PROCESS SERVING BY THE AID OF THE POLICE--
+THE WHITE HORSE OF MAYO--PEASANT PROPRIETORSHIP.
+
+
+I am glad to see by the papers that the state of the workhouse at Manor
+Hamilton has been censured by the doctors, and deliberated about at a
+meeting of guardians. It is certainly the worst conducted workhouse I
+have seen as yet in Ireland, and it says with a loud voice, woe to the
+poor who enter here. It was told me on this twenty-seventh day of May
+that if I really wanted to see a disturbance a serious collision was
+apprehended between the constabulary and the people, at some distance
+from Ballina. I have been led to distrust the accounts of disturbances
+that appear in the papers, or at least to admit them with caution. I was
+assured that now at least I should see the wild men of Mayo, for they
+had assaulted the process server and stripped him of his clothing,
+taking his processes from him, some days before, and they would be out
+in thousands this day to oppose the serving of the processes.
+
+Got a car, as travelling companion the local editor, and driven by a
+knowledgable man, followed in the wake of the police, seventy of them,
+toward the scene of the disturbance to be. The police had one hour the
+start of us. It was a dim day of clouds and watery blinks of sunshine.
+As we drove along all historical spots were pointed out to me, being a
+stranger, with great politeness. A place on the road where the French
+had surged up from Killala and met and fought with the English, was
+pointed out to me. "Here they were defeated, thim French."
+
+We passed the place where lived from colthood to glory the celebrated
+white horse of Mayo, the "Girraun Bawn." This horse, a racer, "bate" all
+Ireland in his day, and was ridden without a saddle or bridle. Mayo was
+very proud of this racing steed, so much so that when horses were seized
+and impounded for the county cess, a farmer who had received his mare
+back again, considering that it would be a disgrace if the king of
+horses were left in the pound, returned to Castle Connor to the pound,
+left his own horse there and released "Rie Girraun."
+
+This celebrated horse was stolen it appears. After some time a troop of
+dragoons were quartered in Mayo, whose commanding officer rode a horse
+suspiciously like "Rie Girraun." The servant man who had ridden and
+cared for the white horse of Mayo recognized the horse and drew
+inconveniently near to the soldiers on parade to make sure whether it
+was "Rie Girraun" or not. The officer, annoyed at the man intruding
+where he was not wanted, asked him what business he had there. He said,
+"The horse your honor rides was stolen from this place, and I was
+looking at him to be sure. He is the famous white horse of Mayo." He was
+asked to prove it, which he undertook to do if the officer would alight,
+which he did. The peasant, then, hidden behind a stone ditch, called to
+the horse in Irish, asking him if he would have a glass of whiskey. The
+horse had been accustomed to get this when he had won a race, and knew
+the taste of poteen. He pricked up his ears and galloped round, looking
+for the voice. On the words being repeated two or three times, he
+vaulted over the stone wall and came to his old friend hidden behind.
+The officer would not part with the horse, but he paid liberally for
+him--so it seems the white horse of Mayo ended his days in the service
+of royalty.
+
+The grandson of the possessor of the white horse was the other day fined
+L6 for possessing poteen, and was unable to pay it.
+
+Listening to these stories we came up with the police, who had alighted
+from their cars and were going through their exercise preliminary to a
+march. We made our way through the cars, our driver chaffing a little
+with the drivers of the other cars. Just opposite where the police left
+the cars was the most utterly wretched house that I had yet seen. A
+large family of ragged people gathered at the door, looking to be in
+anything but fighting trim. We drove slowly, the police marched quickly,
+until we saw them take to the fields, when we alighted per force and
+followed them.
+
+A slim, fair-haired woman, with her arms bare and her feet and legs in
+the same classic condition under her short dilapidated skirts, began to
+make some eloquent remarks. If there had been a thousand or two like her
+I do think the seventy police would have had hard work to protect the
+bailiff. One of our company, a gentleman, remarked to her that she had a
+fine arm of her own. "Troth, sir," said she, "If I was as well fed as
+yourself it's finer it would be." We agreed with this gentleman that if
+this woman was fed and clothed like other people she would certainly be
+a fine-looking person. She drew near to enquire if we were in any way
+connected with the police. Her enquiries were especially directed to
+myself. She was told that I was an American lady, and a few faces that
+scowled were smoothed into smiles immediately.
+
+There were by this time four women and half a dozen boys present. No one
+spoke above their breath but our woman of bare arms. In answer to
+something addressed to her by our party, she said, "Sure they could not
+take a better time than seed time to droive us out of our senses. Sure
+God above has an eye and an ear for it. Look here," she said, throwing
+out her handsome bare arm, "look at the bare fields lying waste because
+the seed cannot be got to put in the ground; they're cryin' up to God
+against it. The cratures here have not enough yellow male to keep the
+hunger off. If they had waited till harvest there would be a color of
+justice to it." This woman had all the talking to herself, no one else
+had anything to say. She herself was not among those against whom the
+processes were served.
+
+We saw the process server leave the ranks of the police and walk down to
+a wretched little cabin and return in a few moments. The order to march
+was given, and the police tramped along to the next house, a bit off the
+road. Two or three little children were in the field, apparently herding
+cattle. The least one said to his brother in an accent of terror,
+"Jimsey, Jimsey, the war is come at last."
+
+Along the road, tramp, tramp, off the road through the bogs, every house
+called at seeming worse than the last. A rumor had been running along
+before us--ever before us--of an Amazonian army with pitchforks, tongs
+and the hooks used for drawing the sea weed ashore, armed and ready,
+some three hundred strong, waiting for the police. We never came up to
+this army or caught a sight of their rags. Crossing a field we were told
+of a merciful lady, a Mrs. Major Jones, who gave them seed potatoes and
+trusted them with meal when they had nothing to eat. As the police
+halted before some houses we heard the muttered exclamations of the few
+women near, "Eagh! eagh! oh, Lord, and them in need of charity!"
+
+Well, we never came up with the army of women. The processes were not
+all served, for some of the houses were empty, and there was no one on
+whom to serve them; we turned our steps, or our horses rather, homeward
+to Ballina, the boys calling out in compliment to America, "Three cheers
+for the noble lady," as we drove off.
+
+The threatened rain came on and came down heavily and we got our share
+of it before we got under shelter. An elderly gentleman was introduced
+to me at Ballina who had had a very great opportunity of noticing the
+working of the law and the struggles of the people. He admitted to me
+that some might possibly have paid some rent before the agitation began,
+but kept it back hoping for a permanent reduction, and then when they
+had it by them had used it for living, and now had nothing to meet the
+rent with. He said, however, that the most part had not recovered from
+the effects of the scarcity sufficiently to be able to pay up arrears--
+or, indeed, to pay anything on arrears.
+
+We conversed a little about peasant proprietorship. He instanced the
+case of two persons who had become owners of church land, one of eight
+acres, another of sixteen. He spoke of the prosperity that had crowned
+their labors ever since hope came to them and they had something to
+struggle for. He said they came now decently clad to church and market.
+He had been in their houses and noticed as much as two flitches of bacon
+hanging in the chimney. One of them owned a team of horses. A man with a
+team of horses on his farm is in a different position from a man with
+only an ass and creels. Absolutely, said he, the man has devoted a
+portion of his land to apple trees.
+
+It was a touching thing to see the earnestness with which this man spoke
+of these great evidences of prosperity--horses to work the farm, two
+flitches of bacon and planting apple trees. In Mayo, in two instances, I
+have seen a corner left untilled in a field. As there was an ass in one,
+and a goat browsing in the other, I do not know but what it was the best
+thing they could do to leave them untilled.
+
+I may as well mention that the wretched people on whom the processes
+were served lived in Sligo, and the landlords who were pursuing them, as
+it were between the hay and the grass, were Sligo landlords, of those
+whom I heard praised so highly in Sligo town. Round Ballina, as round
+Sligo, there are few tenants on the land near the town; it has gone to
+grass and has cows instead of tenants. Sir Charles Gore's demesne and
+residence is very fine, and, as he seems to have a blessing with it,
+long may he enjoy his good things.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIV.
+
+THE LAND OF FLAMES--A RELIC WITH A HISTORY--CATTLE VS. MEN--THE MEETING
+OF EXTREMES--"PUT YOURSELF IN HIS PLACE."
+
+
+Was invited by a friend to visit Rappa Castle to see a celebrated
+vessel which once belonged to Saint Tighernain, the saint who belongs
+more especially to the west and the clock which was removed from Moyne
+Abbey when it was dismantled. This vessel, belonging to the saint called
+Mias Tighernain--which I would freely translate as meaning Tighernain's
+own--has been used until of late years, when the clergy interposed and
+forbid it, for the discovery of stolen goods. Any one swearing falsely
+on the Mias Tighernain was sure to come to grief. People swearing
+falsely on the Bible have been known to escape visible consequences. Our
+car driver, a not very old man at all, told us he was present himself
+when a numerous household were brought together to be sworn on the Mias
+Tighernain for the discovery of a large sum of money which had been
+stolen. The thief was discovered but money was not.
+
+It is very pleasant to drive along through the fair but tenantless lands
+that surround Ballina. The county of Mayo is beautifully diversified by
+mountain and valley, wood and water, glen and stream. The tall hedges of
+white thorn in their bridal white perfume the air. Myriads of primroses
+smile at the passer-by from sunny banks. Small golden blossoms, like
+whin blossoms, cluster thickly here and there, and the starry-eyed
+daisies, white and sweet with blushes edged, lift their modest faces to
+the sky. Even the bog waste is nodding all over with a cotton flower,
+white as a snowflake; they call it _ceanabhan_ in Irish, and the
+peasantry use it as a comparison when praising the white arms and bosoms
+of the Mayo maidens. Surely one might say this bright May morning with
+Tim, "Glory be to God, but it is a purty world!"
+
+When we crossed the boundaries, passed the lodge gates into the demesne
+lying around Rappa Castle, the residence of Captain Knox, there was a
+change to still greater beauty. Money will build a grand and stately
+home in the fair proportions of a castle, but money has to run in the
+blood for centuries to produce a scene like this. Broad lands swelling
+and sinking like an emerald sea, trees that stand out singly wrap
+themselves in aristocratic leafiness, spreading their magnificent arms
+toward you, saying, "Look at me! I am not of yesterday; the dews of
+heaven, the fatness of the earth, the leisure of centuries, fanned by
+breezes, tended by culture, have made me what I am, a 'thing of beauty'
+to gladden your eyes." They stand in groups upon the slopes and whisper
+this to one another; they open their ranks to give you delicious
+glimpses into further away "spots of delight:" they are drawn up in
+ranks shading mysterious walks that lead away into the grand dim woods.
+They distract you and bother you with their loveliness till you wish
+that the English language had a bushel more adjectives.
+
+Rappa Castle where we arrived with a beggarly feeling of having
+exhausted our adjectives is a large comfortable building not very much
+like one's idea of a castle. We drove up to the rear entrance--it is
+always prudent to take the lowest room--and waited on the car while a
+messenger was despatched with our request. Presently the messenger came
+back with directions to us to drive round to the hall door. We were
+received by a respectable servant in plain dark clothes, who looked like
+a minister or a mild edition of a churchwarden. He ushered us from the
+entrance hall--a comfortably furnished apartment--across a second, into
+the crowning glories of a third, where we were requested to wait till
+Captain Knox made his appearance, which was not a long time.
+
+The owner of Rappa Castle, a landlord against whom nothing in the way of
+blame is said, was assuredly of as much interest to us as the relics
+which his house possessed. A tall, fine looking, kindly faced man, rosy
+with health, courteous and pleasant, came into the room. We told our
+errand and the Captain went for the Mias Tighernain and placed it in our
+hands. It is evidently only part of the original dish, the socket where
+the upper part rested being still there. It is very heavy, formed of
+three layers of thin bronze bound at the edge with brass--evidently a
+later thought, and done for preservation. There are three bands of
+silver across it, which show the remains of rich figuring. There was
+originally a setting of three stones, one of which still remains and
+looks as if it might be amber. It is as large as a soup plate. Something
+is among the layers of metal which rattles when shaken. It is one of the
+oldest relics in the country. Whoever made it had no mean skill in the
+art of working metals. According to a certain Father Walsh it was used
+to wash the saint's hands in at mass. This dish, after lying at the
+bottom of Lough Conn for a hundred years, came up to the surface and
+revealed itself. It has been used as a revealer of secrets ever since it
+came into the hands of the Knox family. We requested afterwards to see
+the clock of Moyne Abbey, and were taken by the courteous captain across
+other rooms to the flagged kitchen, where the clock ticked as it has
+done for three hundred years--or since the Abbey was dismantled, how
+long before history hath not recorded. The case is of some dark wood
+beautifully carved. I thought it was bog oak; Captain Knox said
+mahogany, which would make the case to be much younger than the clock.
+The Captain assured us that it was the best time-keeper in the world. It
+only requires winding once a month; used to show the day of the month,
+but some meddler disarranged that part of the machinery. The dial plate
+is of some white metal, brilliant and silvery. Captain Knox said it was
+brass, but I have seen things look more brazen that were not so old.
+
+Nothing could exceed the courtesy of Captain Knox. He made some
+enquiries about Canada, and deplored the rush of cattle across, which
+was injurious to the interests of graziers, of whom he was one. It would
+have been discourteous to express the wish that lay in my mind, that
+they might come in such numbers as to lower the price of cows and
+grazing also till the poor man might be able to have a cow oftener and
+milk to his "yellow male" stir-about till it might be not quite so
+impossible to replace the cow seized for the rent and the County cess.
+
+I saw a trial in the papers lately of a woman who was in bed, in her
+shake-down, when she became aware that the cow--the only cow--was taking
+a lawful departure. Up she got, in the same trim as that in which Nannie
+danced in Kirk Alloway, and by the might of her arm rescued the cow. She
+was condemned to jail, but one's sympathies go with the law breakers
+here often. At least mine do. I did sympathize with this woman of one
+cow and a large family. Why should any one have power lawfully, to
+"lift" the only cow from half-starved children. The defence for this
+woman was that through trouble she did not know what she was doing. It
+was a mean, paltry defence; she did know that she wanted to keep her
+cow, and the law should be altered to enable her to do so. The law that
+enables men of means to strip these poor wretches of everything that
+stands between them and their little children and starvation, is a
+monstrous law for Christians to devise and execute, and is worse for the
+rich and for the executive of the law than even for the sufferers. All
+these things flashed through my mind as we conversed with Captain Knox.
+
+On leaving Rappa Castle we paused a little on the doorsteps to take one
+more look at the beauty of the grounds. I wish I had words to convey to
+others a little of the delight which the scene gave to me. The trees,
+branched down almost to the ground, have gotten themselves into so many
+graceful attitudes. The bending thick-leaved branches look like green
+drapery, the larch flings its tassels down in long pendants fluttering
+in the breeze, the spruce and balsam--they are a little unlike ours of
+the same name, but I do not know any other names for them--rise in
+pyramids of dark green tipped with sunny light green, the cedars fling
+their great arms about cloaked with rich foliage, the laburnums shake
+out their golden ringlets and tremble under the weight of their beauty,
+the copper beeches stand proudly on an eminence where every graceful
+spray shows against a background of blue sky. There are vistas opening
+among the trees giving glimpses of the brightest green and dashes of
+waters like bits of captured sky.
+
+I gave a glance at the owner, tall and stately, with ruddy, pleasant
+face and kind blue eye, and acknowledged that he looked every inch an
+English squire.
+
+With many thanks for his kindness we took our departure. Were glad to
+hear from both friend and car driver that nothing of cruelty and
+oppression could be laid to the charge of this man. As I stood beside
+him at his own door, drawing all of the beauty I could into my soul
+through my eyes to carry away with me, I thought if I were born into
+that place with its associations, could I, would I mar any corner of it
+to make a homestead for starving Thady, ragged Biddy, and the too
+numerous children? Who knows what transformation might lie in the pride
+and power of possession!
+
+There was a single laborer working before the castle raking up the
+gravel walk, I think. "I would he were fatter!" If he were only in as
+good condition as the beautiful dogs of superior breed which we saw in
+the castle yard; but the dogs are fed at the expense of the proprietor
+of this fair domain, the thin laborer at his own. We returned by another
+way. After we left the grounds we noticed with sad eyes the miserable
+cabins and barren fields at his gates. People of the upper, middle and
+comfortable classes are so used to horrible cabins, thin laborers, old
+women, barefoot, toothless, ragged and wretched, begging by the wayside
+to keep out of the dreaded workhouse, that the sight makes not the
+slightest impression. People tell me over and over again that they
+deserve their poverty, for it is the result of extravagance and
+drunkenness. This assertion makes one stare and then consider whose
+faces show the greater evidence of the action of different liquors. It
+would be an easy matter in a national gathering to pick out the class
+and the strata of society that is the support of the liquor traffic in
+Ireland.
+
+
+
+
+XXXV.
+
+WORKHOUSES--THE POOR LAW--A REASONABLE SUSPECT.
+
+
+Returning from Rappa Castle we must pass the Ballina workhouse. My
+friend had business there. As it was Board day, and I had about an hour
+to spare, I thought I would look in and see what I thought of it in the
+light of a possible refuge for many evicted ones. There were some
+wretched looking people, applicants for out-door relief, waiting about
+the entrance when we went in. I have been informed and have seen it
+confirmed in newspaper reports of the proceedings of Boards of
+Guardians, that it is a rule of universal application by every means
+possible to discourage out-door relief in every form. "Let the poor come
+into the union altogether," is the spirit that actuates the Boards of
+Guardians, so it was pointed out to me that these applicants for out-
+door relief had small chance of success.
+
+It was a Board day, and the master of the house, a polite little man,
+apologized profusely for not accompanying me over the building. He
+deputed the schoolmaster of the establishment to show me through in his
+place. I followed the Ballina Schoolmaster of the Union from the
+entrance along the gravel walk bordered with flowers to the house
+proper, and into the refectory or eating room. One does not want in
+every workhouse to look at the same things, when they see they are the
+same as in the last. I noticed the set of printed rules hung up on a
+card and lifting it down sat down to read the rules contained on it.
+They were very strict, and conceived in such a spirit that a naturally
+tyrannical man could make a pauper's life a very miserable burden to
+him.
+
+After I read these rules I questioned the schoolmaster, a very nice
+person, as to the administration of this workhouse. He casually
+mentioned that able-bodied paupers only got two meals in the day. This
+was such a surprising statement to me that I said, "Your workhouse then
+is harder to the poor inmates than the workhouses elsewhere. I have made
+enquiry in several places as to the diet given, and they invariably told
+me of three meals, mentioning also that they had meat allowed them three
+times per week."--They have given you "the infirmary diet," said the
+schoolmaster, gravely. We conversed a little while on this subject, and
+as I was to go by train to Castlebar, fearing my time was too short, I
+did not penetrate into the workhouse any further.
+
+Coming out we encountered the doctor, a very courteous person. Hoping to
+get further information, confirmatory or contradictory of this most
+astounding piece of news respecting the food allowance, I referred to it
+before the doctor, who qualified the statement by informing me that if
+actually engaged at work for the house they were allowed a third meal. I
+was thoroughly surprised at this. The conviction forced itself upon me,
+that the poor having taken refuge in the house from actual starvation,
+the house considered itself justified in keeping them on short commons
+ever after.
+
+As I left the building feeling very sad over this information, I could
+not help wishing that these creatures, guilty of the crime of poverty,
+had the nourishing fare given to the criminals in our common gaol at
+Pembroke on the Ottawa. Now the workhouses are by no means crowded; the
+Ballina workhouse, for instance is empty enough to afford a wing as a
+temporary barracks for some military. I have been told by what I
+consider good authority, that for every shilling levied of the
+distressingly great poor rate eightpence is needed to pay the
+administrative officials. While thinking of these things, I take up the
+Castlebar local paper and notice in the report of the proceedings of the
+Board of Guardians, that a doctor not attending to his duty through
+being "in a state of health not compatible with much exposure to rough
+weather or country professional work," was to be allowed for a still
+greater length of time a substitute at three guineas per week. During
+the debate on this motion a member reminded the Board that last year
+they paid L54 for substitute work for one official on the plea of ill-
+health; another complained that sums of L50 were voted to officials,
+while paupers were denied shillings of out-door relief. Still another
+complained that the auditors would disallow the relief given to cases
+which require relief, while they never disallow sums paid incurred by
+leave of absence of officials.
+
+The whole administration of the poor law is complained of pretty
+universally in this style. The poor rate is excessively high, the
+administration very expensive, and the economy is practised where it is
+least needed, is the complaint I hear again and yet again.
+
+At the station a great crowd and a rather excited one was assembled. A
+Mr. Moffany had been arrested as a reasonable suspect, and was to be
+taken to Kilmainham. The man who was arrested was a small, sickly-
+looking, by no means interesting specimen of humanity, slightly lame. He
+was in some sort of shop-keeping business. The crowd on the platform was
+dense and composed mostly of the poorer class, who were enthusiastic
+enough for anything. The policemen in charge, civilly and politely, with
+no fuss or force, got their suspect into a second class carriage and got
+in beside him. The suspect put his head out of the window and addressed
+the crowd, expressing his willingness to suffer for the good cause, and
+said he was not likely to come out of the prison alive owing to his
+state of health. He advised them to be law-abiding and to go home
+quietly.
+
+Oh, the cheering there was; the endeavors to get near enough to shake
+him by the hand; the surging to and fro of the crowd, the half-crying
+hurrahs of the women; the waving of handkerchiefs and caps was something
+to be remembered. As the train moved off slowly the people ran alongside
+cheering themselves hoarse, shouting words of encouragement and
+blessing, of hope and farewell till the train quickened its speed and
+left them behind.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVI.
+
+DEPARTURE OF EMIGRANTS--TURLOUGH--THE FITZGERALDS--FISH--THE ROYAL
+IRISH WATCHDOGS.
+
+
+The day on which I had to return to Sligo from Castlebar an immense
+crowd was gathered at the station, and I wondered what was the matter.
+It was a gathering to see emigrants start for America. The emigrants
+took the parting hard. If they had been going to instant execution they
+could not have felt worse. Three young girls of the party had cried
+until their faces were swollen out of shape. The crowd outside wept and
+wailed; some clasped their hands over their heads with an upward look to
+heaven, some pressed them on their hearts, some rocked and moaned, some
+prayed aloud--not set prayers, but impromptu utterances wrung out by
+grief. The agony was so infectious that before I knew what I was about I
+was crying for sympathy.
+
+I was not to say sorry for them, for I knew the fine, healthy, strong
+girls were likely to have a better chance to help their parents from the
+other side of the water than here, and the young men might make their
+mark in the new world and make something of themselves over there. Still
+it was hard to witness the agony of their parting without tears.
+
+When the carriage moved off, the cry "O Lord!" with which the passengers
+started to their feet and the relatives outside flung up their hands,
+was the most affecting sound I ever heard. It was a wail as if every
+heart-string was torn. A countryman explained to me that the Irish were
+a people that wept tears out of their hearts till they wept their hearts
+away. By the conversation of the emigrants, I found that one girl had
+turned back. "She failed on us, my lady," said her comrade. "Her heart
+gave up when she saw the mother of her in a dead faint and she turned
+back. One has but the one mother and it is hard to kill her with the
+bitter grief of parting before the time."
+
+People who have travelled much, and are loosely tied to any spot on
+earth, ridicule the affection of these mountain people for their cabin
+among the hills, but love of home is a glorious instinct, and if the
+country of these people could afford them a little bit of the soil for a
+home--liberty to live and toil--they would be both loving and loyal. All
+the poor want is permission to live in a corner of their own country.
+
+Castlebar is reached by rail. The station is a little out of town.
+Castlebar is the first town where my few belongings were fought for. The
+victor in the strife was a most determined old man. I thought he had a
+car, but he had only his sturdy old legs. He shouldered my big bag,
+little bag and bandbox and trudged off. I ventured to ask him had he not
+a car. "Sorra a car, miss. After all your sitting in the cars sure it
+will do you all the good in life to walk a bit." They think to flatter
+elderly women by calling them Miss individually.
+
+I had an introduction to a member of the Royal Irish Constabulary in
+Castlebar. He was son to a gentleman who was kind enough to claim
+kindred with me in Antrim. When I alighted from the cars I noticed a
+sub-constable with quiet face taking note of all arrivals, and saw that
+he was good enough looking to be an Antrim man. Found I was right and
+entered Castlebar protected by a member of the force. Paid the
+victorious old heathen who had walked off with my luggage the price of a
+car, partly for his bravery and partly for his impudence. The approach
+to Castlebar from the station, about a mile, is bounded on one side by
+Lord Lucan's demesne, shut in behind a high wall, over which the tall
+trees wave their arms at you. Another domain, Spencer Park, I think, is
+on the other side, and as it is only shut in by a hedge, one gets
+delicious peeps at it as one goes along.
+
+Went, with my new acquaintance, who got leave and put on plain clothes
+for the occasion, to the small Presbyterian Church in Castlebar. There
+were about a dozen present. Presbyterianism does not, as a rule,
+flourish in Mayo, though there are a good many small congregations and
+many mission schools.
+
+My friend of "the force" got leave of absence for a day and having got
+into plain clothes drove with me to Pontoon Bridge between Lough Conn
+and Lough Cullin. As we passed the poor-house he told me of the awful
+crush that took place round its doors, where the relief was served
+during the scarcity. The press and struggle of the hungry creatures were
+so dreadful that no serving could be attempted for some days. I could
+not help pitying the force standing in mud ankle-deep trying to beat
+back the frantic people, to make serving the relief possible. But, oh!
+the despair of the people who had to go and come again because the press
+was so great. It seemed to a civilian like me that the matter was badly
+planned and by heartless people, or two or even three places would have
+been appointed for the distribution of the relief and not send them home
+without. I often wonder if I am too tender-hearted, too easily moved.
+The want of feeling toward the very poor strikes me forcibly wherever I
+turn. I think that it was not so to such a perceptible degree before the
+poor-houses were built. I solemnly think the Poor Law system educates
+people into hardness of heart.
+
+The road out from Castlebar was very beautiful but thinly populated. All
+gone to grass near the town, hardly any cottages at all. Our first visit
+was to Turlough where there is a round tower with an iron gate quite
+close to the ground. The other two which I had seen before at Devinish
+and at Killala had their doors about eleven feet from the ground. The
+top of this round tower was broken and it had been mended by the
+Government. There is a story among the peasantry to the effect that it
+never had been finished at all. They say it was the work of the
+celebrated _Gobhan saer_, an architect who seems to have had a hand
+in every ancient building almost. The finishing of the rounded top of
+this tower was done by an apprentice who was likely to rival his great
+master. He, in a sudden fit of jealousy, before it was quite finished
+pulled away the scaffolding and the too clever apprentice was killed.
+
+There is a ruined abbey adjoining the round tower. It is roofless and
+open, yet still an iron gate opens from one part to another. Here in
+this abbey has been the burying-place of many of the sept of the
+Fitzgeralds, and it was interesting to pass from tablet to tablet and
+read of the greatness that had returned to dust. The most remarkable
+dust which moulders here is the celebrated George Robert Fitzgerald, a
+man who was handsome, well educated, who had spent much of his time at
+the French Court. In Ireland he felt himself as absolute as King Louis
+(le petit grand). In pursuance of a private feud he arrested his enemy,
+and with a slight color of law murdered him. The act was too glaring, he
+was tried and to his great surprise hung. The rope broke twice, and the
+country people believe that the breaking of the rope gave him a right to
+a pardon. They tell me that the sheriff, a personal enemy, in spite of
+the signs and tokens of the breaking ropes, hung him while he had a
+reprieve in his pocket. There is a kind of Rob Royish flavor about the
+memory of this man in the country side.
+
+Continued our drive to Pontoon. As soon as the land became rugged, boggy
+and comparatively worthless the tenant houses became more plentiful. Saw
+some sheep about, which is always a cheering sign amid the utter poverty
+of the people. On the way to Pontoon, on the top of a rock stands one of
+the famous rocking stones of the Druidical time in Ireland. A party of
+soldiers in their boisterous play determined to roll it down from the
+rock. This they were unable to do, easy as the matter looked, but they
+destroyed the delicate poise of it, and it rocks no more.
+
+The rocks become bolder and the scenery wilder as you come to the shores
+of Lough Conn. Lough Cullen, or lower Lough Conn, has bare round-
+shouldered rocks sleeping round it, reminding one of the rocks on the
+Ottawa about the Oiseau. The Neiphin Mountain towers up among the rocks
+far above them all, looking over their heads into the lake. Lough Conn
+is three miles long, and in its widest place three miles wide. Where the
+upper and lower lakes meet it is narrow as a river, and over this the
+bridge is placed. The marvel here is that a strong current sets in from
+Lough Conn to Lough Cullen half the time, and then turns and sets from
+Lough Cullen to Lough Conn. The bridge is called Pontoon because a
+bridge of boats was made here at the time of the French invasion.
+
+Saw some fishermen fishing in the lakes. There were many boats here and
+there lying on the sandy shore, or anchored out in the lake. These
+fishermen had no boats; they had waded out waist-deep, and stood fishing
+in the water dressed in their shirts. As the fishing is strictly
+monopolized, I should not wonder if these breekless, boatless fishermen
+were poaching.
+
+The quantum of fish in the waters, the scarcity of fish on the shore is
+often referred to as a proof of the people's laziness. The fishing is so
+severely monopolized that fish diet and fishing are to the people almost
+lost arts. I heard of the delicious oysters found on the coast, but one
+would require to go to England or Dublin to test their flavor. Lobsters
+could be purchased in their season at Montreal, but not at the seaports
+in Mayo. I asked for a bit of fish at Castlebar, where I remained some
+time, and once succeeded in buying a small herring, for which I paid 2
+1/2 pence.
+
+To return to Pontoon; we stood on the bridge in the sunlight and drank
+in the scene--broad blue waters, spotted with islands, guarded by the
+munitions of rocks, watched over by the eternal mountains, bald and
+wrinkled, every wrinkle scored deep on their brows, heather on the
+cliffs, ivy creeping some places, ferns waving their delicate fronds in
+another; bare, desolate grandeur here, tree-crowned hill tops waving
+their magnificence before you there. This was the scene spread out on
+either hand.
+
+We came back over the bridge to the police barracks, sitting on a rock
+with its back to a grove of trees, and reached by a flight of stone
+steps. I was introduced to the sergeant in charge, a fine specimen of
+the Donegal men. Tall and straight, strong and kindly are the men of
+Donegal. The sergeant took us to a hill back of the barracks where was a
+very lonely vale surrounded by steep hills wooded to the top. Down the
+perpendicular sides of this hill a waterfall dashes in the rainy
+seasons, but it was only a tinkling splash at this time. The sergeant
+and I had some conversation about Donegal, and of course Lord Leitrim.
+This noblemen has graven his name with an iron pen and lead on the rocks
+for ever.
+
+We bade adieu to the kindly sergeant and drove back to Castlebar in the
+quiet evening. Opposite the Turlough round tower is the charming
+residence of a Fitzgerald, one of the race whose dust moulders in an
+aristocratic manner in the ruined abbey of Turlough. This gentleman, not
+thinking himself safe even under protection, has left the country. Only
+fancy a squad of police marching from their barracks in the dusk, five
+or ten miles as the case may be, pacing round a gentleman's house in
+rain or snow, sleet or hail, no shelter for their coercion heads, no
+fire at which to warm their protecting fingers; pace about from dusk
+till dawning, march back to barracks and to a few hours' rest. I was
+silly enough to suppose that the protected family would provide a bowl
+of hot coffee for their protectors through the silent watches of the
+night, or a glass of the handier and very popular whiskey, but dear, oh
+no! the most of them would not acknowledge the existence of the Royal
+Irish protectors with a word or a nod no more than if they were watch
+dogs.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVII.
+
+CASTLEBAR--WASTING THE LAND--CASTLE BOURKE--BALLINTUBBER ABBEY.
+
+
+Castlebar is not a large town at all. It is, like all other towns which
+I have yet seen in Ireland, swarming with houses licensed to sell
+liquors of different kinds to be drunk on the premises. In one street I
+noticed on the side of the car on which I sat every house for quite a
+little distance was a licensed whiskey shop.
+
+The country people bring in ass-loads of what they have to sell. Very
+few horses are to be seen in the hands of country people. Their trading
+is on a decidedly small scale. The number of women who attend market
+barefoot is the large majority. The ancient blue cloth cloak is the
+prevailing hap. Upon a day my friend and I went out to see the glories
+of Ballintubber Abbey. It was not possible for him to go in plain
+clothes so soon again; so I had the appearance of an obnoxious lady of
+the land, protected by a member of the force.
+
+We drove out of Castlebar some seven or eight miles in the opposite
+direction from where Pontoon Bridge lies. Our road lay for miles through
+the country wasted of inhabitants by the Marquis of Sligo after the
+great famine. Here and there a ruin where a cabin has been speaks that
+it was once inhabited. The people tell that Lord Sligo's people were
+rented the land in common by the settlement. All but two of one
+settlement had paid; as those two could not pay, the whole were evicted.
+My informant thought the settlement deserved eviction when they did not
+subscribe and pay for the two who could not pay. He never seemed to
+think they might not be able to do so, nor that it was cruel to evict
+all for the sake of two.
+
+Lord Lucan made a great wasting also at that time. Between the land near
+the town devoted to private demesnes, laid out for glory and beauty, and
+the lands wasted of inhabitants, you can travel miles and miles on more
+than one side of Castlebar and see scarcely a tenant; a herd's cabin, a
+police station, being the only houses. As soon as we come to barren land
+over-run with stones, tenant houses become thicker.
+
+We passed a cabin of indescribable wretchedness; a woman who might have
+sat for a picture of famine stood at the door looking at us as we
+passed. She had a number of little children, of the raggedest they were,
+around her. Some time ago the father of these scarecrows was suspected
+of having stolen some money, and a posse of the much enduring police
+were sent out to search in the dead of the night. The family were in
+bed. The bed was a few boards laid on stones, on which was spread a
+little green hay, and among the loose hay they slept. The terror of the
+little creatures pulled out of bed, while the wretched lair was searched
+and they stood on the floor naked and shivering, was described to me by
+one who assisted at the search. The bed was overturned, but the money
+was not found. We drove on through the "stony streak" out to a clearer
+grass country to Castle Bourke, a lonely looking ruin sitting among her
+own desolations. It once covered a great deal of land, and there is
+evidence of additions having been made to it at different times. This
+Castle Bourke was one of the castles of the Queen of the West, the
+celebrated Grace O'Malley. This castle is one of those given to Grace by
+her husband of a year, Sir Richard Bourke.
+
+There are still the remains of three buildings; one, said to be the
+prison, was loopholed through the solid stone, some loopholes being
+quite close to the ground, some straight through, some slanting, so as
+to cover a man come from what direction he might, or what height soever,
+even if he crept on the ground. Most of the castle, as well as these
+buildings attached, had their roof on the floor, but in the square tower
+of the castle proper still remains a stone staircase of the circular
+kind.
+
+As you go up this stair lit by narrow slits in the wall formed in hewn
+stone you find an arched door at three different places admitting to
+three arched galleries roofed and floored with stone. These have their
+loophole slits to peep out of, or fire out of, stone spouts through
+which molten lead or boiling water could be poured on the besiegers. In
+one gallery a trap door let down to an underground passage which came
+out at the lake some distance off. By this they could send a messenger
+to raise the O'Malley clans, or by it could escape if necessary.
+
+The goats of Mayo are inquisitive, and would persist in climbing the
+circular stair and exploring the galleries. Whenever they found this
+secret passage, for pure mischief they fell down and were killed, to the
+great loss of their owners; so the secret passage is filled up, for
+which I was very sorry.
+
+We must take our car again and rattle back over the road to Ballintubber
+Abbey. Ballintobar (town of the well) near this was one of the sacred
+wells of St. Patrick. The abbey gates were locked, and it was some time
+before the key was forthcoming. The church part of the abbey is entire
+except the roof and the lofty bell tower. The arch that supported the
+tower was forty-five feet in height, but I do not know how high the
+tower was which it supported. At last the key was found and we were
+admitted into the church. The chancel is still roofed, and here in these
+solemn ruins, watched over by the crows and the jackdaws, the few
+inhabitants still left assemble for mass. There is a rude wooden altar
+and a few pine benches; the ivy waves from the walls; the jackdaws caw
+querulously or derisively; the dead of the old race for centuries sleep
+underneath, and now in a chancel the remnant gather on a Sabbath. I
+cannot describe it as an architect or antiquarian, and these classes
+know all about it better than I do, but I want to convey as far as I can
+the impression it made upon me to others as delightfully ignorant on the
+subject. The roof is made in the same way as all arched roofs of old
+castles which I have yet seen, of thin stones laid edge-wise to form the
+arch and cemented together. The country people tell me that a frame of
+wood was made over which they formed the arch and then poured among the
+stones thin mortar boiling hot. On the inside of the arch run along ribs
+of hewn stone cemented into their places, running up to meet in a carved
+point at the extreme top. These groinings spring from short pillars of
+hewn stone that only reach part way down the wall to the floor and run
+to a point. These consoles are highly ornamented with sculpture. The
+mouldings round the doors, and the stone window frames and sashes, are
+wonderfully well done, and would highly ornament a church of the
+nineteenth century.
+
+I think we undervalue the civilization of the far past of Connaught.
+Those who erected such churches, such abbeys and such castles were both
+intelligent and possessed of wealth in no small degree. The ingenuity of
+the cut stone hinge on the stone that closes the tomb in the chancel,
+the carving on the tomb of the Prince of the O'Connor line, the staunch
+solidness of every wall, the immense strength of every arched roof, show
+skilled builders, whether they worked under the direction, of the Gobhan
+Saer or another man. The plans of the castles, for offence, defence or
+escape, show them to have been built by men of skill for men of large
+means and great power.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVIII.
+
+OVER-POPULATION OF THE WEST--HOW PEOPLE FORM THEIR OPINIONS--MR.
+SMITHWICK AND JONATHAN PYM--A DEARTH OF FISH.
+
+
+Left Castlebar with regret and went down to Westport. I find at every
+step since I landed the information that in going round Ireland I should
+have begun at Dublin. In Dublin I could have procured a guide book. I
+have sought for one in every considerable town from Belfast round to the
+edge of Galway without obtaining it. If I had started from Dublin I
+should have taken a tourist's ticket there. Well, I am not sorry for
+that, for it is rather hard on me when I get into the beaten track where
+I encounter tourists--some of them are trying specimens of humanity.
+However, I am made to feel as if I was patting the wrong foot, instead
+of the best foot foremost.
+
+I got into Westport in the fair sunlight in the early part of June.
+Between Castlebar and Westport the land is part stony, part bog, part
+better land under grass. Mountains with hard names, that one makes haste
+to forget, are to be seen all round from whatever side of the car you
+look. They are all over--a good deal over--one thousand feet high. A few
+lakes are spread out here and there also. I am as ignorant of their
+names as of those of the lakes I saw crossing Maine. Westport, like
+Castlebar, has a mall. Castlebar mall is a square of grass with some
+trees drawn up on one side. It is fenced in with chains looped up on
+posts--a fence that nobody minds except to step over and they track the
+grass with paths running in every direction. Westport's mall is a long
+space with trees standing sentry by a river, walled in as if it were a
+canal.
+
+I had a wish to meet with a Mr. Smithwick, a land agent, from whom I
+might receive a good deal of information. I had information from himself
+that he should be at Newport upon the day after I arrived at Westport. I
+fought successfully against myself, and got up at an uncomfortably early
+hour and went to Newport by mail car. Newport, Mayo, is six Irish--seven
+and a half English--miles from Westport and is at the head of Clew Bay.
+The road lies through a nice rolling country, entirely desolate and
+empty.
+
+The only passenger by the car besides myself, was a gentleman, English I
+presume, who, after he became tired of silence, began a conversation
+with me, taking for his subject the over-population of the West. I
+looked to the side of the car where we sat--it was a country of fine
+grassy hills with not one wreath of smoke curling up from a solitary
+chimney as far as the eye could reach. I leaned over the well of the car
+and looked to the other side--to the limit of the horizon, behold, the
+land was empty of house or home or human being. I looked over the
+horses' ears--there was the same scene of utter desolation. I turned
+round with difficulty and looked behind us--saw the same grassy hills
+swelling up in green silence without man or beast. I said softly, "Lift
+up thine eyes, sir stranger, and look northward and southward, eastward
+and westward. Is not the land desolate without inhabitant, where then is
+the over-population?" The strange gentleman looked, not at the empty
+hills and the silent green valleys, but at his fellow-traveller with
+emotions of fear. To doubt that this fair and desolate Mayo is over-
+populated is to show signs of lunacy or worse. Fenianism, Communism, or
+even Nihilism, is possible if there is no lunacy to account for such
+strange ideas.
+
+Mildly, but with resolution like Samantha's, I urged on the gentleman to
+look at the prospect, and he was like one awakening from a dream, for
+the country from Newport to Westport, seven and a half miles, is without
+inhabitants. I believe Lord Lucan was chief exterminator over this
+stretch of country. Brought up at the little inn at Newport, and the
+stranger and I had breakfast together. We conversed about over-
+population. He had travelled much, and when he recollected what his eyes
+saw instead of what his ears heard of a false cry, he admitted that a
+loneliness had fallen upon this part of the west.
+
+After breakfast he went his way, with a new subject for thought, and I,
+deserted in a wilderness of a commercial room, took out some paper and
+began to write. There was no sound but the steel scratch of a pen that
+grew monotonous. After a long time--some hours--of solitude, the door
+opened and a gentleman entered with some luggage and a young woman
+followed him. I gathered up my scribblings and put them away. The
+gentleman took off his overcoat, and shining out of the breast pocket
+was a bright revolver. I grew afraid, though, generally speaking, I am
+too busy to think of being afraid. There was a trans-Atlantic look about
+the gentleman, a Mississippi appearance about the too conspicuous
+revolver, and, I admit, I thought of some Fenian leader and wondered
+what Stephens was like. I heard the gentleman order lunch and afterward
+he left the room.
+
+When he returned he introduced himself as Mr. Smithwick. He was not at
+all the kind of gentleman I had expected to see. By some perversity he
+had become fixed in my imagination as a very tall gentleman with fair
+curled hair. Now this was sheer foolishness, but it had a disastrous
+effect on the interview. My mind, instead of gathering itself up into an
+attitude for receiving information about the land question, would go off
+wool-gathering in speculation whether this was the very Mr. Smithwick or
+not. The gentleman said with all politeness that he was willing to give
+me all the information in his power on any subject on which I wanted
+information.
+
+There is something not canny in the west. I had felt it before, but
+never as I did then. I could not possibly disentangle my ideas enough to
+be clear as to what information I did want. I was under some spell. I
+could only look at Mr. Smithwick, wondering if he was he, and smile at
+my own stupidity. Time passes quickly; the gentleman remained but about
+an hour and a half at most, and he had to have luncheon out of that and
+attend to some little business in town besides. Before I got to be
+myself he was gone. We did talk a little about reclaiming bog land. He
+put the cost per acre for trenching, laying stones in the drains, sand
+and manure, at L21 per acre. Reclaiming bog land has been done by tenant
+farmers all over the country, who were evicted afterward when they fell
+behind in rent in the bad years, and did not get any compensation for
+the land so reclaimed. Mr. Smithwick did not think the relief money in
+all cases reached those for whom it was intended; believed it was partly
+intercepted on the way. Did not have a high opinion of his countrymen of
+the poorer class. Thought them a useless set who did not do the work of
+their farms properly; did not even make a drain properly if done for
+themselves; made it in a proper manner if made on another man's land,
+because there he was overseen, and if he slighted his work he would not
+get paid for it. In short, "Paddy anywhere but at home is a splendid
+man, but at home he is worthless."
+
+Mr. Smithwick deplored the present agitation among the people; deplored
+it as an agitation got up, not for people's benefit, but to feather the
+nests and fill the pockets of agitators. He informed me that he himself
+had to carry a pistol wherever he went. In speaking of rents Mr.
+Smithwick informed me that the lands were really rented low; that the
+people could pay, and were quite able to pay, were it not for the advice
+of agitators; said he was getting no rent at all these years. The total
+cessation of rent coming in was a great deprivation to landlords, who
+depended on their rents for the means of living.
+
+Mr. Smithwick thought emigration was the remedy for the undeniable
+poverty of the country, for if the people got their farms for nothing
+they could not make a living out of them, owing to their shiftless
+method of farming. I objected that it would be scarcely fair to send
+their people, who were so useless and helpless, over to be a burden on
+us, but Mr. Smithwick thought that they would soon come in to our ways,
+and help themselves, and be not a burden but a help to the community. I
+found out in conversation with this gentleman that to reach Ballycroy,
+where he lives, I should have come from Ballina. I seem perversely to
+take the long way round. Mr. Smithwick kindly explained to me the way I
+should go to reach Ballycroy by private car. He thought there was so
+little of interest in that direction that it would hardly repay me for a
+long tiresome journey, and that Connemara direction was much more full
+of interest. After his croydon had driven off I began to remember
+various points on which I should have liked to obtain his opinion that I
+had never thought of once when I had the opportunity. Perhaps it was the
+very early drive that had wearied me, but I was dreadfully stupid all
+through the interview. I had counted a great deal on seeing this man,
+and I seemed to myself to have gained nothing of facts to which one
+could refer triumphantly in support of an opinion in consequence of it.
+
+To wake myself up I enquired of the civil landlady if there were any
+wonderful sights to be seen in the neighborhood within an easy drive.
+Yes, there was Borrishoole Monastery (the place of owls) and Carrig a
+Owlagh (rock of the fleet) Castle, one of the strongholds of Granna
+Uisle Well, got a car and driver and drove off to see these ruins. I was
+told that no tourist ever visited Newport without going to see them.
+
+As we rattled and jolted over the roughest bit of road which I have yet
+seen in Ireland, the driver, a dark, keen-eyed man, began to talk of
+landlords, of the wasting and exterminating Lords Lucan and Sligo. I
+asked him whom did he think a good landlord. He answered immediately,
+"Jonathan Pym." "If you think him so good you might say Mr. Pym." "When
+a man is the best in any way he's too big for Mr.," said the man
+readily. "I dare say," I remarked, "that this Jonathan Pym is very
+little better than the rest." "But I say he is," retorted the man
+fiercely. "Where inside of the four seas of Ireland will you get his
+aiquil? He bought the land, coming among us a stranger, and he did not
+raise the rents. The people live under the rents their fathers paid."
+"Well, that's not much?" "If you were a tenant you would think
+differently. He took off the thatch of the cabins and put on slates at
+his own expense: There is not a broken roof on the land that he owns.
+Every tenant he has owns a decent house, with byre and barn, shed and
+stable, and he done it all out of the money he had, that never was
+lifted out of the land, and after all left them in at the ould rents.
+There has never been wan eviction on his place yet." "Has he been shot
+at yet?" I enquired innocently. "Arrah, what would he be shot for?"
+demanded the man, turning his swarthy face and black eyes full on me. "I
+thought maybe some one might shoot him for fun," I explained, feebly.
+"Fun!" growled the car-man, "quare fun! If a man is shot or shot at he
+deserves it richly. He's not a rale gentleman, word and deed, like
+Jonathan Pym."
+
+The driver continued to praise the wonderful landlord, Jonathan Pym, in
+a growling kind of tone as if, were I his spouse, he would thwack me
+well to cure my unbelief, as we jolted over the stones to the ruins of
+the monastery of owls.
+
+There is a lake, the lake of owls, near this ruin, and in it, it is
+said, gentlemen anglers can readily obtain leave to fish. I have heard
+that amateur anglers give the fish they catch to the person who gives
+the permit, retaining the sport of catching as their share; or if they
+want the fish paying for them at market price. I think this unlikely,
+but it may be so nevertheless.
+
+The monastery was once a splendid place, to judge by the remains of the
+carving on window and arched door. One of the skulls of Grace O'Malley
+used to be kept here as a precious relic. There was another at Clare
+Island and I think I also heard of another. It seems some speculative
+and sacrilegious Scotchman brought a ship round the west coast of
+Ireland to gather up the bones lying in the abbeys to crush them for
+manure, and they took the brave sea queen's bones and skull with the
+rest.
+
+Returned to Newport in a very undecided frame of mind whether to go to
+Ballycroy or not. There was a Land League meeting to be held there, and
+I might see that; but then I had been at two Land League meetings, and
+they are pretty much alike. Of course it is well to see a great
+assemblage of people, for they always are of interest as showing what
+condition the people are in, and what sentiments find an echo in their
+hearts. But the length of the way, the uncertainty of a place to stop at
+had some weight, and I found myself unable to decide. To clear up my
+brain I asked for a bit of fish for dinner, but such a thing could not
+be obtained at Newport. The fish caught there are exported. They might
+get a fish by going down to the boat for it, and paying dearer for it
+than the Dublin price. I asked for fish at Westport with the same
+result. If you mention salmon they will say, "Oh, yes," and if not
+stopped, rush off and buy a can of American salmon for you. I got
+something to eat--not fish, and not very eatable--and wrote a little
+while, with the same stupid sensation bothering me that I had felt
+during my interview with Mr. Smithwick, and decided to put off all
+decision and go to bed, which I did.
+
+In the morning, having found that Newport was the nearest point by which
+to reach Achill Island, I determined to go there, and if I thought I
+could endure the journey to diverge at Mulrany and drive to Ballycroy on
+my return from Achill Island.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIX.
+
+BY THE SHORE OF CLEW BAY--ACROSS ACHILL ISLAND--A LONELY LOVELY
+RETREAT.
+
+
+The drive from Newport, Mayo, to Mulrany was very pleasant. The roads
+winds along Clew Bay, that bay of many islands, for quite a distance.
+Clew Bay was resting, calm as a mirror, blue and bright, not a lap of
+the wave washed up on the shore of Green island or Rocky Point the day
+we drove past. No fisher's boat divided the water with hopeful keel. The
+intense solitude of bays and inlets as well as the loughs looks like
+enchantment. It reminds one of the drowsy do-nothingness of "Thompson's
+Castle of Indolence," only here the indolence is not the indolence of
+luxurious ease but of hunger and rags. If the knight of arts and
+industry will ever destroy monopoly, and these silent waters will be
+alive with enterprise:
+
+  "When many fishing barks put out to fish along the coast."
+
+there will be a happy change in the comfortless cabins that dot the
+shores of Clew Bay.
+
+The islands of Clew Bay, being treeless and green, have a new look, as
+if they had just heaved up their backs above the waters and were waiting
+for the fiat that shall pronounce them good. I looked with longing eyes
+in the direction of Clare Island, that has one side to the bay and one
+side to the broad Atlantic which lies between me and home. On Clare
+Island is the remains of Doona Castle, the principal stronghold, of the
+heroic Grace, where she held the heir of Howth captive till ransomed,
+and till his father learned to understand what _Cead mille failte_
+means at dinner time.
+
+Here, by Tulloghan Bay, I was told to look across the bay, where the
+heather-clad mountains rise above the broad heather-clad bog, where the
+road to Ballycroy winds along between the bay and the mountains, past
+houses of mortarless stone, hard to be distinguished from the heath; for
+over there in a certain spot occurred the shooting affray which has made
+young Mr. Smith, the son of the then agent for the Marquis of Sligo, a
+man of renown.
+
+The hard feeling between the exterminating Marquis, the agent who
+executed his will and the tenantry was intense. Four men were lying in
+wait here with the intention of shooting Mr. Smith, who was expected to
+pass that way. He drove along accompanied by his son. The would-be
+assassins fired; they were concealed above the road; the shots passed
+harmlessly over the heads of the two Smiths. Young Mr. Smith, who is an
+exceptionally good shot--can hit a small coin at an immense distance--
+saw the men run and fired after them, killing one, fired again, wounding
+another, and would have fired again, but was prevented by his father.
+
+Young Mr. Smith is quite a hero among the people on this account. There
+is an expressed regret that Mr. Smith the elder interfered to prevent
+the young marksman from shooting them all; very few would blame him if
+he did, as the men, though too nervous to do harm, lay in wait for the
+purpose of murder. Still it is revolting to hear people in cold blood
+regret so heartily that there was not more bloodshed.
+
+The scenery--as scenery--was as grand as bare heathery mountains and
+wide desolate waters could make an almost treeless solitude, but viewed
+as a home for human beings, viewed as land that has rent and taxes and
+existence to be carved out of it, it has a hopeless look.
+
+The houses are something dreadful, to consider them in the light of
+human habitations. Limestone does not abound here, and therefore the
+houses of the poorer sort are built like a cairn or a fence of loose
+stones without mortar. When the Atlantic winds sweep in here in winter
+time, the crevices in these houses will be so many chinks to whistle
+through. God pity the poor!
+
+The people along the road here had a thrifty look; the men wore homespun
+coats; the pinned-up dresses of the women showed petticoats which were
+homespun of warm madder red, well dyed, good and comfortable looking. Of
+course the majority of the women were barefoot, but they were used to
+it.
+
+At Molraney we stopped to deliver mails. In these cases the passengers
+sit on the car in the street, while the driver hands in the mail,
+gossips awhile, goes into the convenient "licensed to sell" for a taste
+of something, and the police saunter down for the mail and look you
+over, judiciously but not offensively, and at last you make another
+start.
+
+Arrived at the Sound, you find a nice-looking hotel for such a remote
+place. There is any amount of liquor to be got: you can also get the
+never-varying chop or steak served up with another variety of miserable
+cooking, but you cannot get a bit of fish any more than if the sea were
+five hundred miles off instead of lapping on the rocks less than a perch
+away. Was pulled across the Sound by two young girls, who handled the
+big oars as if they were used to them, and urged the boat with its load
+of men across the green waters very swiftly with their strong white
+arms. As we neared the island of Achill trees were conspicuous by their
+absence, and purple heather was plentiful.
+
+Achill island is a treeless place. There are mountains beyond mountains
+lying against the sky, heather clad or mossgrown; there are small lakes
+lying at the foot of mountains or between mountains; there are dreary
+expanses of bog stretching for miles on each side of the road between us
+and the mountains, and rising out of the bog are wee bits of fields and
+most horrible habitations. We passed the plantation, noticeable because
+there is not another, that Mr. Pike has coaled to flourish round his
+fine house. There are dark green firs, feathery light green larches,
+birches, and other trees that dress in green only when summer comes;
+great clumps of laurel and rhododendron, the latter one mass of blossoms
+that almost hide the leaves beneath their rosy purple. Mr. Pike has
+already made for himself a delicious looking home amid this barren
+waste. It enriched our eyes to look at it.
+
+Mr. Pike and Mr. Stoney, of the castellated new building down at the
+edge of Clew Bay, have the distinction of being the most unpopular
+landlords in this part of the country. After we passed Mr. Pike's place
+there were no more trees. The houses are very bad indeed; the cattle in
+the pasture are of the small native breed, and have little appearance of
+milk; the sheep are very miserable and scraggy. I have often heard of
+Cook's recipes saying, "Take the scrag end of a piece of mutton." These
+recipes must have emanated from Achill Island, where the mutton must be
+pretty much all scrag.
+
+After we drove a long way--what appeared a long way--I do not believe
+they measure all the crooks and turns this most serpentine of roads into
+the miles--we passed establishment of lay brothers called the Monastery.
+There is quite a block of white buildings, and a good many reclaimed
+fields, green with the young crops, lie in the valley below them. There
+is a bell in a cupola that will call to work and worship, and a chapel
+where they meet to pray. The valley where their fields lie stretches to
+the sea, and in the bay lay a smack of some kind by which they trade to
+Westport. They labor with their own hands, so have not the name of
+employing any laborers, but have the name of dispensing charity. I
+should have liked to see the buildings and the brethren, but did not
+make the attempt.
+
+At length we came to Dugart, the Missionary settlement. A little row of
+white-washed houses on one side of a street that ran up hill, another
+row of whitewashed houses that ran along the brow of the hill at a right
+angle. Slieve Mor behind towering up between the village and the sea;
+below the hill at the foot of another mountain is the rectory, beside it
+the church, both having a trimming of young trees; some good fields, the
+best I have seen in Achill, and a pretty garden lie round both rectory
+and church. This is the mission village of Dugart.
+
+At the corner where the two rows of whitewashed houses meet is the Post
+Office. As we drove up there was a gentleman with a northern kindliness
+in his face, a long brown beard, an unmistakable air of authority, whom
+we found out was the rector of Achill. After introduction and some
+conversation, he kindly invited me to the rectory after I had brushed
+off some of the dust of travel.
+
+The Dugart hotel possesses a large collection of stuffed sea birds, the
+proprietor having taste and skill in that direction, and I was enabled
+to take a nearer view of specimens of the birds that sail and scream
+round the Achill mountains, eagles and gulls, puffins and cormorants,
+than I would otherwise have done. After a little rest and refreshment I
+walked down the hill to the lonely, lovely rectory in the valley below.
+
+There is a solidity about a stone house, stone porch and stone wall in
+every part of Ireland; a strength that makes one think how easily a
+house could be turned into a fortalice at a short notice.
+
+I confess I liked this rector, so tall and stately, with his long beard,
+grave, kindly face, northern speech, penetrating look, with a certain
+air of authority as became a pastor in charge. When he asked me
+pleasantly if I had come as a friend, I thought at once of the Bethlehem
+elders to Samuel, "Comest thou peaceably?" I think I almost envied this
+man his position, the power which he holds as a leader to be a patriot
+worker for the good of his countrymen and countrywomen on the barren
+isle of Achill.
+
+We walked upon the shady path that leads from rectory to church, under
+green arches of leafage, in the real dim religious light which grand
+cathedrals only imitate. There is a nice useful garden on one side of
+the path, stocked with things good for food and pleasant to the eye.
+Along one side is a hedge eight feet high of fuschia growing thus in the
+open air, proving that it is possible to turn sheltered spots of barren
+Achill into nooks suggestive of Eden.
+
+The little church to which this romantic path brought us was such a
+church as one might snuggle down in to learn the way to Zion, and enjoy
+the comfort of the old, old story. This mission was begun by the Rev.
+Edward Naugh, I believe, in the famine time. It invaded the island with
+bread and the Bible. I hear that it has done much good, chiefly, I
+believe, in educating and emigrating the people.
+
+The village of the mission opposite the rectory has two schools, an inn
+or hotel, a co-operative store, a post-office, some dwellings of
+coastguard's men and other official and semi-official people, the agent
+over the mission property for one. A little further away on the sea
+sands is a miserable collection of cabins inhabited by the people. There
+were some poor-looking farmhouses dotting the mountain side.
+
+As far as I could learn there was no industry on Achill Island but
+tilling their miserable crofts. The fishing was monopolized by one man,
+a Mr. Hector, a Scotchman. The people as far as I could learn had no
+boats fitted for deep sea fishing and the coast fishing was monopolized.
+They are said to be lazy, unthrifty, unenergetic. I enquired a little
+about this and it seemed to me as if there was a door locked and barred
+between them and any field for the display of energy with hope--without
+an atmosphere of hope, energy is a plant that will not thrive. It is
+hope, and nothing but hope, that nerves the backwoods settler of Canada
+to do battle with summer heat and winter snow, with the inexorable logic
+of circumstances, and he conquers because he has hope. Over every
+peasant holding in Ireland of the western part there is written, "Here
+is no hope." The superior mind looks upon the peasantry as minors who
+are not able to judge for themselves, who need to be tied down with
+office rules, and held in by proprietory bit and bridle. They admit,
+that they do well in the free air of Canada, but they contend that
+thrift, forethought, frugality is produced in them by desperation. I see
+desperation all round here producing a recklessness and despair. I know
+that hope is the star that shines for the backwoods Canadian to light
+him to competence.
+
+I did not see any of the mission tenants in Achill. I saw nothing but
+what lay on the surface. I have no doubt that the mission has done good
+in many ways, great good. I am sorry, however, that they lost the
+opportunity of testing the capabilities of the islanders to flourish as
+peasant proprietors; it is not always well for the church to have
+vineyards and oliveyards, manservants and maidservants. It is well
+sometimes for the church to come down like her Master and to be
+alongside of the discouraged mortal who has toiled through a lifetime
+and caught nothing but hunger and rags, to share with them the toil and
+want.
+
+
+
+
+XL.
+
+REMEMBRANCES OF THE GREAT FAMINE--THE "PLANTED" SCOTCH FARMERS--A
+BEAUTIFUL EDIFICE.
+
+
+On my return from Achill Island I decided that I would not take another
+post car drive to Ballycroy, and returned to Mulraney again along the
+same road in the shadow of the mountains. On to Newport we drove, back
+over the road winding along the side of Clew Bay, and across the head of
+the bay through the lonely country leading back to Westport.
+
+The driver, a weather-beaten man in a weather-worn drab coat,
+entertained me with tales of the clearances made in the famine time that
+left the country side so empty. It is hard to believe that ever human
+beings were so cruel to other human beings in this Christian land, and
+that it passed unknown, or comparatively unknown, to the rest of the
+world.
+
+This man told, with a certain grim satisfaction, of what he called God's
+judgments which had fallen on "exterminators." The common people of the
+West have a firm belief that God is on their side, no matter what
+trouble he allows to come over them. "Sure I do feel my heart afire,
+when gintlemen sit on my car driving through this loneliness an' talk of
+over-population. Over-population! and the country empty!" I wish I could
+remember all this old man said, but I can only recall snatches here and
+there.
+
+It is most amazing to think that, when the world at large was sending
+help to save the Irish people alive in the awful visitation, so many
+were throwing their tenants out on the road to die. And these people had
+by hard toil won a living here and paid rent. Every rood of this land,
+every cabin had helped to swell princely revenues, until the finger of
+God came down in famine, and then, when the revenue stopped, there was
+no pity, and it seemed to these poor people that there was no one that
+regarded them. I do not wish to ever come to that time of life when I
+can hear of the scenes that wasted this country without feeling a
+passion of sorrow and regret.
+
+I spoke of these things to a worthy gentleman resident in another part
+of the country and he brushed it aside as if it were a fly, saying, "Oh,
+that is long past, thirty years and more." Memory is very strong among
+people who seem to have little to look forward to--the past seems the
+principal outlook. Every incident of the French landing here so far back
+as '98 is told to me in the West here with a freshness of detail as if
+it happened a few years ago; one can imagine, therefore, how the cruel
+evictions of the famine time fit themselves into the memory of the
+people, especially as the rush of fresh evictions are awaking all the
+horrors of the past.
+
+It seemed a gloomy satisfaction to this man to tell over what he
+considered God's judgments which had fallen on exterminators. He pointed
+out to me many who seemed doomed to be the last of their race.
+
+At last we passed the long, dead wall which encloses the magnificent
+demesne of the Marquis of Sligo and drew up at Westport once more. The
+local papers which await me are full of Miss Gardner and her war with
+her tenants--more evictions, emergency men from Dublin to hold
+possession--and all the rest. I was introduced by a Protestant clergyman
+to a gentleman connected with the executive of the law for a quarter of
+a century. He knows the heartrending inner history of legal eviction.
+This gentleman has a wonderful tenderness in his heart for Miss Gardner.
+"Sure she grew up among us. The other one (Miss Pringle) found her as
+kindly a woman as was on God's earth and has made an ogre of her."
+
+I will give an extract or two out of the softest part of the statement
+he has drawn up for me.
+
+He tells of a landlord who evicted whole townlands in 1847. He hated the
+people because the famine swept over them. He became possessed with the
+same ideas as other landlords of the period, whose income had diminished
+through the visitation of God, that if the present possessors were
+rooted out and depopulated lands planted with Scotchmen, their skill and
+capital would prevent a recurrence of famine.
+
+Now it is a fact freely attested to me by clergymen of different
+denominations that the planted people of Mayo required help, and help to
+a very large amount to keep them from starvation during the last
+scarcity. On many estates in Mayo and the adjoining parts of Sligo the
+Protestant population would have died of hunger but for the large help
+given both denominationally, and otherwise. They could not have seeded
+their grounds but for seed freely given them. Fields in Mayo this season
+are lying bare because the wretched people are not able to get seed to
+put in the ground. Some of the planted people complained to me that
+though when they settled on their present lands they got them cheap, two
+shillings and sixpence an acre for wild land, yet as they improved their
+land the rent was raised to five, to seven and six, to fourteen, and now
+to over a pound an acre. These men also complained that they could not
+possibly exist at all during these last seasons and pay the rent which
+was laid on them in consequence of the improvements done by their own
+labor. I find by the most conclusive proof that a difference of
+religious belief did not enable the settlers any more than the natives
+to pay a rent that could not be produced from the soil. The desire to
+change the nationality and religion of his tenants was so strong in one
+landlord that, in the words of my informant, "A scene of ruthless havoc
+began among his tenantry. To stimulate the slowness of the crowbar
+brigade he was known to tear down human habitations with his own hands."
+I remember these poor people standing in the market in those dark days
+of famine, having their bits of furniture for sale on the streets, and
+there were none to buy. I have heard the wailing of men, women and
+children on the coach-top day after day, when these fortunate
+unfortunates were escaping from their native land forever. I saw those
+who could not go in the agonies of death in the fever sheds. These
+scenes happened over thirty years ago, but they will never be forgotten.
+Four large townlands, on which eighty homes had been, became a
+wilderness of grass and rank weeds. No Scotch were forthcoming for the
+wrecked farms. There was a Nemesis in store for him. His day of eviction
+came about, and in his trouble his tenants saw retribution. As charity
+kept some of his tenants alive, so he also was indebted to the charity
+of friends, and passed away to meet his tenants at a bar where high
+blood or aristocratic connections do not sway the Judge who sits on the
+throne of justice, nor does party prejudice blind his eyes.
+
+When Miss Gardner came of age it took all the property of her father to
+pay the money secured to her by her mother's settlement, and she entered
+into possession in his stead. Like Queen Elizabeth, whom Miss Gardner
+greatly resembles, she had in her youth known troubles; sympathy for
+these trials, so well known to the peasantry, made them receive her with
+open arms and open hearts. In the interval between Miss Gardner entering
+into possession and her coming under the influence of Miss Pringle she
+set herself to repair the havoc made by her predecessor, and was the
+idol of her tenantry. She was near neighbor to the model farm and
+orphanage presided over by the Scotch ladies. Philanthropy collected the
+vast sums which bought and stocked the model farm at Ballinglen. When
+their mode of managing matters there could be no longer hidden from the
+Presbyterian Church which they misrepresented, the mission came out
+largely indebted to these ladies. It took all the stock to pay off its
+indebtedness to one lady, and the farm itself to pay the other. It is
+the lady who got the farm as her share, that lives with Miss Gardner,
+and gets the credit of her every unpopular act. She has divided between
+her and her only friend in the dark days. This Scotch hag found her a
+kind-hearted woman, and has made her into an ogre. Some of this
+communication, the hardest of it, I shall reserve, also several
+confirmatory anecdotes given me at Westport.
+
+In mercy to the readers, I will only say that Miss Gardner has intense
+courage and an intellect of masculine strength, and resembles Queen
+Elizabeth in more ways than one. It is a great pity that she has not
+Queen Bess's popularity or her care for her people.
+
+Westport, when I have time to look at it, is a very pretty town. Its
+buildings, its hotels and the warehouses on the quay look as if it once
+had an extensive and flourishing trade, or was prepared for and
+expecting it. There was, I am told, once a flourishing linen trade here,
+but it has gone to decay. The town is in a little hollow, with pleasant
+tree-crowned green hills rising all round it; at one side is the demesne
+of the Marquis of Sligo, which is open to the public. These grounds
+extend for miles, and are as beautiful as gorgeous trees, green grass,
+dark woods, waters that leap and flash, spanned by rustic bridges, can
+make them. There are winding walks leading through the green fields,
+under trees, into woods, up hill and down, into shady glens, where you
+might wander for miles and lose yourself in green-wood solitudes. Crowds
+of Westport folk, in the calm evening, saunter through the grounds and
+enjoy their beauty.
+
+The little town has a subdued expression of prosperity. You feel
+conscious that some business is going on that enables the inhabitants of
+the town to live comfortably and to dress respectably. You hear of the
+mills of the Messrs. Livingstone, of their business in trading and land-
+owning, until you are convinced that they are the centre round which
+this little world revolves.
+
+I had a lady pointed out to me here as being in such embarrassed
+circumstances, owing to the non-payment of rent, that her son was
+obliged to join the police force to earn a living. I heard also great
+sympathy expressed for another gentleman in Dublin who has many sons,
+whom he has brought up to do nothing, and who has been reduced by the
+strike against rent to absolute poverty. I am told that banks in Dublin
+are glutted with family silver left as security for loans. These people
+are to be pitied, for poverty is poverty in purple or in rags; but when
+poverty comes to actual want, it is still more pitiful.
+
+
+
+
+XLI.
+
+GOING TO ENGLAND FOR WORK--CANADA AND AMERICA.
+
+
+I have been going against the stream on my travels. I am reminded,
+incessantly that I should have begun at Dublin. Going backward, as I am
+doing, the orthodox route is to Leenane, passing Erriff and the Devil's
+Mother, but the regular cars were not yet running, I was told, nor were
+they likely to run this summer, as, owing to the exaggerated reports of
+outrage, tourists are not expected in any numbers. Was persuaded to take
+a special car to go by Leenane round the coast. Would have liked to do
+so, but not to bear all the expense myself. The further west the more
+expensive the car, I find. Instead, I returned to Castlebar, and on to
+Balla. Balla is the small town where the Land League was born.
+
+In the compartment to which I was consigned there were some gentlemen,
+for gentlemen and ladies of very great apparent respectability do travel
+in the cars devoted to the humbler people; there were also some
+respectable looking laborers who were going over to England to look for
+work. A discussion arose in our compartment as to what constituted
+politeness. One gentleman defined it as ceremonious manners, the result
+of early training; while another objected that that was only the veneer
+of manners, as all true politeness arose from the heart. I listened
+awhile and then spoke across the seat to a decent, dejected looking man
+with a little bundle beside him tied up in a blue and white check
+handkerchief. "Yes, he was going to England to look for work; many had
+to go for the work was not to be had at home." "The rents were so high,
+and the taxes, what with one thing and another, there was a new cut
+always coming heavier than the last." "The people are being crushed out
+of the country very fast, and that was God's truth." "And you are from
+America? It is a fine country they say. I would be there long ago but
+for the heavy care I have here that I can neither take with me nor leave
+behind." "Yes, I go over to England every year. For a good many years
+past I have always worked for the same man, ever since I went there
+first." "It grows harder to live in Ireland every year."
+
+I told this man amid the craned necks and open mouths of his companions,
+some of the advantages of Canada as a home. I do not know why it is that
+the people know so little of Canada. I was listened to with exclamations
+of "Well, well!" "Boys a boys!" "Dear O dear!" "Hear that, now! A man
+might live there!"
+
+Getting at last across the Mayo plains to Claremorris, I parted from my
+acquaintances with many a "God bless you," while many hands lifted out
+my travelling bags. At Claremorris a car man asked if I was a pilgrim
+for Knock which was the first intimation that I had that I was in the
+vicinity of Knock. Hired this car man, who was also owner of the car, to
+drive me there. I have always heard that those born on Christmas Day are
+privileged to see apparitions. I have not yet come into that part of my
+inheritance, but do not know how soon I may.
+
+On the way, which led through a well-cultivated, fertile country, waving
+with trees, and showing glimpses of great houses peeping out among them,
+the driver asked me if I had ever heard of Captain Boycott. I said there
+were few who had not. "He used to live in that house up there; he was
+agent in this part of the country, but he left us, thank God." "What
+made people dislike him so?" "Because he was the height of a great
+tyrant." "Come now, what did he do?" "Everything he could do to oppress
+the creatures who were in his power. I have known a man come home to his
+little family with three shillings for his week's wages, all the rest
+scratched off him in fines. If you have a family yourself you will
+understand what their living would be when they paid the rent of the
+cabin. A man dazed with hunger would not have all his wits about him and
+there would be more fines. In that way the mane hound got his work done
+for half price, and ground the life out of the people. There was no word
+of an emergency man to pity or help them. God help us; how true it is
+that the help does not go where the want is."
+
+We got to Knock, a country church in a country place. Alighted, and
+while the carman tied his horse I looked round me. There was an
+enclosure round the chapel. At one side was a row of wooden booths,
+where relics, beads and trinkets were sold. On the other side of the
+enclosure was a school for girls. It was at the end of the church where
+the apparition is said to have appeared that we entered. All the plaster
+on this end was removed by devotees. In the spot where the apparition
+was said to have been seen, there was a life-size statue of the Virgin
+in plaster. All over the gable were strips of wood cleated on, behind
+which were ranged walking-sticks and crutches in regular order till the
+whole gable was covered. There was a long frame-work of wood about
+twelve feet long and three broad, also filled with crutches and walking-
+sticks.
+
+As I stood looking, the car man came in after tying his horse, and knelt
+down on the damp earth before the Virgin's shrine and repeated a prayer.
+He was not ashamed to practice what he believed before the world and in
+the sight of the sun. When his prayer was over he joined me, and drew my
+attention to the number of crutches and sticks left behind by those who
+were benefited. I pointed out to him a very handsome black-thorn stick
+among the votive offerings, and asked him would it be a sin to steal it,
+as black-thorns were in demand over the water. He told me if I did that
+whatever disease was laid down there by the owner of the stick would
+cleave to me. I thought of Gehazi and restrained my hands from stealing
+the black-thorn. There is one nice characteristic of a genuine Irishman,
+he can take a joke.
+
+There were many masons working at an enlargement of the church. We went
+in. It had an earthen floor, and there were many people kneeling on it
+at their prayers. Some were silently making the stations of the cross,
+others, a large number, were reciting the rosary aloud under the
+leadership of a young woman, who repeated one part, when they all
+answered in concert. The windows were darkened by the scaffolding and
+building outside, and as I sat there seeing and hearing, looking toward
+the altar, in the shadow of a pillar I saw a hand steal out. I own I was
+startled; but when my eyes got accustomed to the gloom, I saw it was a
+man at the top of a ladder quietly painting away as if the church were
+empty.
+
+After a while I came out and went over to the school. There were 78
+children present, all girls, all clean and decent. There was one
+teacher, a pleasant-faced young woman, who had two monitor assistants.
+The order kept was very good, the school furniture neat, a good many
+maps on the wall, and the children seemed busy and interested. The
+teacher told me that the income of the school, owing to results fees--a
+sum paid by Government according to the progress of the pupils, was
+sometimes as high as L80 per annum.
+
+After leaving the school, went over to the booths to buy some trifle as
+a memorial of Knock. The man in the booth told me I had come from
+America. There was another man with his arm in a sling, who had come
+from America also. He had come to visit Knock. I asked him if his arm
+was better. He said it was, but not entirely well. I asked the man in
+the booth if he had ever seen anything. He said that he did not come
+there to see anything, but to make a living. He and the American had
+both bits of the original plaster, which they showed to me.
+
+The priest of the place was not at home. He lives in a cottage down the
+hill a bit, in sight of the church. I had seen all there was to be seen,
+so I made my purchase and bid good-bye to Knock, and drove back to
+Claremorris.
+
+Claremorris is a nice enough little town, very quiet, as if not much of
+any great work was going on. Where there are factories I notice the
+people step quickly and look straight ahead. Over towns which depend on
+the trading of the country round there is an air of repose and leisure.
+I did not see much of Claremorris, for I soon left it behind in going to
+Ballinrobe by car.
+
+The land here seems very rich. I remarked this to my travelling
+companions, who told me that I was on the rich plains of Mayo. The
+fields are large and well cultivated. There were no signs of the abject
+poverty, wee, stony fields, horrible rookeries of houses that exist in
+the shadow of the Ox hills. Not that the houses of the laborers here
+were good; for that, a good, decent laborer's house, I have not yet seen
+in Ireland, except on Mr. Young's Galgorm estate. They may exist on
+other estates, I dare say they do, but I have not seen them. This
+country over which we were travelling was as rich with round-headed
+trees and wide meadows as a gentleman's park. The road, a particularly
+meandering one, passed through Hollymount--a lovely place--and through
+Carrowmore, my companions telling me of the landlords and the tenants as
+we drove along. The rent was high and hard to make up, the turf far to
+draw, that was all. There was no account of vexatious office rules or
+special acts of tyranny related to me at all.
+
+Ballinrobe, on the river Robe, is near Lough Mask, and is another quiet,
+pretty, leisurely little town. I was troubled with neuralgia and did not
+see much of it. Opposite the hotel was the minister's residence, amid
+gardens, all shut in behind a stone wall high enough for a rampart.
+Through an archway from the street was the church where he ministered,
+sitting meditating among the tombs. I wandered into this place one day
+on my way to the post-office. Noticed the great number of the name of
+Cuffe who were buried there. Cuffe is the family name of Lord Tyrawley.
+
+The Catholic church sits back from the street a good way and the ground
+before it is laid out in flowers. There are some images of saints
+through the grounds, which are set in arches of rock work, over which
+climbing plants are trained. There is also a community of Christian
+Brothers, who have a school here. Their building had so much glass in
+front, with so many geraniums in flower, a perfect blaze of them behind
+the glass, that it looked like a conservatory.
+
+Left Ballinrobe behind and drove to Lough Mask Castle, where the
+celebrated Captain Boycott managed to kick up such a fuss. We passed a
+couple of iron huts occupied by policemen, who came out to look at us. I
+may as well mention that after I left Ballinrobe I found that the driver
+was more "than three-quarters over the bay." He had a way of talking to
+himself on the land question, of Captain Boycott, Lord Mountmorris and
+Lord Ardilaun, that was not pleasant to listen to, especially as he
+spiced his monologue with many words that savored strongly of brimstone.
+I was not without hope that the fresh air might dissipate the fumes of
+liquor from his brain as we drove along. I had the more hope of this as
+I could see that he was a habitual drinker, poor man, as his face but
+too plainly testified. Drink is universal here, as medicine a universal
+remedy, as a daily, almost hourly, stimulant for young, and old, rich
+and poor, man and woman. They tell me that Scotland is worse; if so,
+Scotland should be prayed for. I confess that I have not seen much
+drunkenness. I saw very few that I could call drunk, but it is constant,
+steady, universal, or almost so, sipping and tippling.
+
+
+
+
+XLII.
+
+LOUGH MASK CASTLE--CAPTAIN BOYCOTT AND HIS POLICY--LORD MOUNTMORRIS.
+
+
+Well, my Jehu did sober up considerably before we halted at the
+entrance gates of Lough Mask Castle. The sharp hi! hi! of the driver
+brought out the gate keeper, a poor looking and sour looking woman, who
+admitted us into the drive which lay through some fields and beside some
+young plantations. In one place the driver pulled up, our way lay
+through a large field divided by the road into two unequal parts.
+
+He told me to look round me, which I did. "On one side here, were the
+dragoons; their horses were picketed here; on the other side was the
+infantry. It was awful weather. What them men and their horses stood of
+hardships and misery no tongue could tell. The dragoons marched down
+here, looking fine and bowld, their horses were sleek and fat and
+shining, when they marched away they wor staggering with the wakeness
+and the men wor purty wilted looking. He made them believe he needed
+protection." This with a growl that had depths of meaning in it.
+
+"He's coming back here again. Out among nagurs or anywhere else he could
+not find them to put up with him like ourselves." Of course I omit the
+strong words that were used as garnishing. I must own that this was the
+first time that any carman had used profane language before me--and it
+wasn't himself was in it at all at all but the whiskey. "The soldiers,
+whin they wor here," continued the old man, "cut down the trees of the
+plantation for firing. That went to his heart, it did. How could they
+help themselves, I'd like to know? Sure they would have perished with
+the cowld and the wet among the pelting of the snow and the sleet.
+Wherever they are this blessed day they don't admire the memory of
+Captain Boycott. What I like is behaviour in aither man or baste, and
+Captain Boycott had no behaviour. They killed a sheep to ate, or maybe
+two, and sorra a blame to them. It was ate or die wid them; but ye see
+the gallant Captain didn't like it." About this time a volley of
+anathemas was poured out against the absent Captain.
+
+During all this we were sitting on the car viewing the field where the
+bivouac had been. A policeman with a questioning look on a pleasant face
+came along from the great house with a tin pail in his hand. "What have
+you got in the can!" asks this inquisitive car driver. "Milk," responded
+the policeman. "You would have got no milk at the big house in Captain
+Boycott's time."
+
+"Oh; yes, I would," said the other, "when I paid for it." I did not like
+to question this man, for he did swear so, but I ventured to ask if Mrs.
+Boycott were equally as much disliked as her husband. "Never heard a
+word against her in my life. The people had no reason but to like her.
+Hard word or hard deed she left no memory of behind her."
+
+We drove past the residence where Captain Boycott lived, a fine spacious
+house finished in plaster to imitate stone. The grounds near the house
+were nicely laid out, but that is the universal rule in Ireland. Drove
+through a gateway into the yard. In a stable loft in the yard some
+policemen were lodged. The driver hallooed at them, and one came down
+the stone steps to see what protective duty was asked of him. I asked
+him to show me the ruins, and he complied in the kindest manner. Across
+the barnyard and through a shed we made our way into the castle ruins.
+There are many nooks and crannies, as is the case in these ancient ruins
+generally, but the main body of the castle was divided into two large
+apartments, with the roof on the floor of course. I noticed the track of
+recent fire along the old walls. He said it was made by the officers who
+were down there on protective service for Capt. Boycott. They had one
+apartment and cooked there, and the police the other. These quarters
+open to the sky, and having stones on the floor, did not look
+comfortable.
+
+We went up the circular stairs to the ramparts at the top. There is a
+walk round the top behind the battlements. Looking down at the remains
+of a fireplace in what was a lofty second story, my guide told me there
+was a name and a date there. The name Fitzgerald, I forget the date; so
+this must have been one of the Geraldine castles.
+
+There is a fine view from the battlements. Lough Mask, which is very
+shallow here, a little water and a great many stones overtopping it in
+profusion, lies before us, and an extensive country, partly fertile, in
+round hills and green valleys, partly crusted over with stones.
+
+A policeman, not my guide on this occasion, told me, illustrative of the
+disposition of Captain Boycott, that the hut in which the police were
+sheltered was very damp--water, in fact, was running on the floor under
+their bed. They had a small coal stove, and on the coal becoming
+exhausted before they got a further supply, one of the men being down
+sick, they ventured to ask Captain Boycott for the loan of a lump or two
+of coal to keep their stove going till their supplies were received, and
+he refused them. They were obliged to protect his ass and water cart
+down into the lake to draw water from out beyond the edge where the
+water was deep, and, therefore, could be dipped up clean. He would not
+allow them to get any of the water for their own use after it was drawn,
+or lend them the ass to draw for themselves. They had either to wade out
+in the lake or dip up as they could at the edge. I made a slight mistake
+in saying that the castle was entirely roofless; there was part of an
+arched roof where the fire had been. I asked the policeman if they had
+any night patrol duty now. Oh, yes, he said, we patrol every night,
+although we never see anything worse than ourselves.
+
+Left Lough Mask, its castled ruins and modern mansion behind us, and
+drove through the gates again. I felt convinced that the people were not
+filled with an unreasoning hate against Captain Boycott. They thought
+they had reason, deep reason, and they scrupulously excepted Mrs.
+Boycott from any censure bestowed on him.
+
+Along the road we drove, until from an eminence we could see Lough Mask
+in its beauty, with its bays and islands spread out beneath us. This
+view gave us a part of the Lough where the water covers the stones. This
+particular evening the water was as calm as a mirror and as blue as the
+sky above it, and the trees on the hills and bays around it in their
+greenness and leafiness, round-headed and massive, were all bathed in
+sunlight. We came to fields a little more barren-looking, where bare
+stone fences took the place of the rich hedgerows, turned up a road that
+lay between these stony ramparts, and drove along for a little time.
+
+I was wondering in my own mind about Captain Boycott. Did he, in his own
+consciousness, think he was doing right in his system of fines? He knew
+how small and miserable the wages were: he knew of the poor, comfortless
+homes and the "smidrie o' wee duddy weans" that depended on the poor
+pennies the father brought home; he knew that he came out well fed and
+leisurely to find fault with a peasant who was working with a sense of
+goneness about the stomach. Did he think that increasing the hunger pain
+would make him more thoughtful, more orderly? Would he have done better
+if he had been suddenly brought to change places with his serf? If he
+could not help fining the people until he fined off the most of their
+wages, were they to blame for refusing to work for him? Was the
+Government right in taking his part when it had neither eye nor ear for
+his people's complaint? I was questioning with myself in this helpless
+fashion, when I heard my driver inquire in Irish of a bare-footed
+country girl if we were near the spot where Lord Mountmorris was
+murdered.
+
+This question, and the surprise with which I became aware that I
+understood it, made me forget Captain Boycott for the time being and
+wake up to the present time. We had stopped our car and were waiting on
+the girl's answer, which she seemed in no hurry to give. At length
+lifting a small stone she threw it on the road a car's length behind us,
+answering in Irish that there was the spot where he was found. The
+murderer was hidden in the field opposite. The road was bare of the
+shelter of hedge or ditch, bush or tree. It was late; he was coming home
+alone, his police escort for some reason were not with him that
+particular night. Lord Mountmorris was murdered, and some one has a mark
+on his hand that all the water of the Lough will not wash off.
+
+We drove along the road, a bleak and bare road, with a hill on one side
+of it and a steep slope down on the other, until we came to a small
+plantation, a lodge gate, and drove up an avenue with small plantations
+of young trees here and there, some grass lands, a few beasts grazing
+about, some signs of where flower beds and flower borders had been
+better cared for once on a time than now, and came to a comfortable,
+roomy square house finished in plaster. This was castle something, the
+residence of the late Lord Mountmorris. With a blessing, content and
+three hundred a year one could fancy that person sung of by Moore, "With
+the heart that is humble," being able to make out life nicely here. When
+a man has a title to his name with all the requirements which it implies
+and demands, one could imagine a constant and wearing struggle going on.
+
+I have earnestly and constantly sought to find a reason that could
+possibly irritate an ignorant and exasperated peasant to the point of
+taking the life of this man, I have found none. He was unhappily
+addicted to drink, it is said, but he must have had a large majority of
+the inhabitants of Ireland of all creeds and classes on the same side
+with him in this, to judge by the number of houses licensed to sell
+liquor to be drunk on the premises which are required for the drouthy
+part of the population. He is accused of having warped justice to favor
+his friends in his capacity of magistrate. I have heard that accusation
+brought against other magistrates again and again, who were not
+molested. He is said to have boasted when _fou_ that he was a spy
+for the castle authorities, and could have any of them he chose to point
+at taken up. This was mere bluster, I suppose. There does seem no reason
+why the poor man should be cut off in the midst of his days by a guilty
+hand, for there is no record of any tangible injury which he had done to
+any man. Here on the spot where he fell, among the common people, I did
+not hear anything that seemed to give a reason for any hatred that would
+lead to murder being entertained against the deceased nobleman.
+
+We turned away from the house and grounds, and I felt sad enough when we
+passed the place where he lay in the dark night amid bare, barren
+loneliness until the alarm was given. Heath in full blossom of purple
+clung to the ditch back, foxglove in stately array nodded at us from
+above, flowers that creep and flowers that wave were springing
+everywhere, the rains of heaven had washed off the red stain, but I
+could not shut my eyes to it. I saw the human body, dignified into
+something awful by the presence of death, lying there waiting for the
+hands that were to take it up reverently, and bear it away for
+investigation and burial. I saw the dyed stones of the road that will
+never lose the mark of guilt that colored them with the blood shed
+there.
+
+Lord Mountmorris' residence was a nice, roomy house. All these houses
+are called castles, and castles they are compared with the cabins. The
+land around it did not seem very good. There was something pathetic in
+the evident attempt to keep up lordly state on a poor income and off
+poor soil. Happy America, whose people are not compelled by the
+inexorable logic of circumstances to be lords, but can be plain farmers.
+It is really a hard thing to be a lord sometimes, when a place is sunk
+with mortgages, and burdened with legacies and annuities, and no means
+of redemption but the rents and these stopped.
+
+We drove back the way we came. Ascending the hill we met a little beast,
+so small, so black and shaggy, that I thought at first it was one of our
+Canadian black bears. I asked what it was, and--laughing at my
+ignorance--the man told me that it was a Highland Kyloe, one of the
+famous black cattle that I have heard so much about, but had never seen
+a specimen of the breed before. It would have been big for a bear, but
+certainly was small for a cow, while a goat has the appearance of giving
+as much milk.
+
+
+
+
+XLIII.
+
+CONG
+
+
+The land as we neared Cong, between Cong and Lough Mask, as seen from
+the rather roundabout road we travelled, has a very peculiar appearance.
+It is stony with a very different stoniness from any part of Ireland
+which I had seen before. In some places the earth, as far as the eye
+could reach, was literally crusted with stone. The stone was worn into
+rounded tops and channelled hollows, as if it was once molten, like red
+hot potash, and every bubbling swell had become suddenly petrified, or
+as if it had once been an uptilted hillside over which a rapid river had
+fallen, wearing little hollows, and sparing rounded heights as it dashed
+over in boiling fury for ages, accomplishing which result it deserted
+this channel; and through some internal movement the bed of the torrent
+was levelled into a plain. Some agency or other has worn this solid rock
+into a truffle pattern that is very wonderful to see. Over all this part
+the stony formation recurs again and again. A person remarked to me that
+it looked like the bottom of a former ocean. Judging by the marks worn
+into the stone I should say it was not a pacific ocean.
+
+We came to a blacksmith's shop with the arch of the door formed into a
+perfect horse-shoe; this, I was told, was the boundary line between Mayo
+and Galway. In a few minutes we stopped before the "Carlisle Arms," in
+the little village of Cong. Cong village is not very large, and has not
+a wealthy appearance. There is a look generally spread over the people
+who come in to trade as if their fortune was as stoney as their fields.
+
+I had not been long in the "Carlisle Arms" before my attention was
+called to certain framed mementos that hung round the room. By some of
+these mementos hung the tale as to how Cong hotel came to be named the
+"Carlisle Arms." On a certain occasion, when the then Lord Lieutenant of
+Ireland, the Earl of Carlisle, was making some sort of progress through
+Ireland, he proposed stopping at the hotel at Maam, a hotel under the
+thumb of the late Lord Leitrim, who had some pique at the Lord
+Lieutenant, which determined him to order under pain of the usual
+penalty that there be no admittance to the Viceroy of Ireland at this
+hotel. His Lordship for once felt the power of a text of Scripture, and
+sent orders that from the highways and hedges they should be compelled
+to come in; that his house should be filled to the entire exclusion of
+Her Majesty's representative. Lord Carlisle did not, like Mr. Goddard
+the other day at Charleville, proffer money, or take any steps to try
+the lawfulness or unlawfulness of this proceeding, but, having sent a
+courier to precede him, hurried on to Cong, and conferred the
+distinction of his presence on that hotel. That the proprietors did
+their best to entertain him I have no doubt, speaking from experience.
+That he appreciated their efforts he has left on record in a neat
+acknowledgement, which hangs above the mantlepiece framed and glazed, as
+Uncle Tom desired to do with his letter from Massa George. The Lord
+Lieutenant's photo hangs there too, in a nice frame, as a memento of his
+having been received at Cong when refused at Maam. Also he consented
+that the hotel should be known as the "Carlisle Arms" henceforth. I
+wonder very much that there was not at least as much public indignation
+felt against Lord Leitrim or the innkeeper whom he influenced when he
+refused shelter to Her Majesty's representative here, the head of the
+executive, as is now expressed against this hotel-keeper, who refused to
+receive Mr. Goddard. I suppose the cases are different someway.
+
+During the famine time a large sum of money was voted, partly by
+Government, partly from the county taxes, for Relief Works. It was
+determined to make a canal to connect Lough Corrib and Lough Mask. The
+canal was made at the expense of much blasting, much building of strong
+and costly stone work. If they could only have resurrected the famous
+Irish architect _Gobhan Saer_, he would have advised making a well-
+cemented bottom for the canal considering that a subterraneous river
+runs from one lake to the other under it. They did not do this, however,
+and when the grand canal was finished and the water let on the bottom
+fell out in places and the waters fell through to their kindred waters.
+The next famine they will require to dig and blast downward and still
+downward till they find the underground river and the runaway water.
+Coming past the costly and well-built bridge which spans the almost dry
+stream that pours into the leaky canal somewhere, I saw some women round
+a hollow in the stream that retained a little water. They were rinsing
+out some woollen stuffs after dying them blue. They had warm petticoats
+of madder red, and I was glad to see them look so comfortably clad and
+thrifty.
+
+After returning to the hotel I was waited on by an elderly lady of the
+peasant class, a woman over eighty years of age. She had for sale some
+pillow lace edging of her own manufacture, which she offered at
+threepence per yard. This was the way she made her living, paid her rent
+and kept herself out of the workhouse. The lace was pretty and very
+strong. She generally succeeds in disposing of it to lady tourists.
+
+There were some lady tourists as well as gentlemen staying at Cong. They
+were on pleasure bent, and had been dreadfully annoyed and disgusted in
+Galway at the heartbreaking scene attending the departure of some poor
+Irish emigrants. They are unreasonable in their grief, and take parting
+as if it were death; but it is as death to many of the aged relatives
+who will see these faces whom they love no more. I could not help
+thinking how differently people are constituted. When I saw the
+streaming eyes, the faces swollen with weeping, and heard the agonized
+exclamations, the calls upon God for help to bear the parting, for a
+blessing on the departing, I had to weep with them. These people were
+all indignation where they were not amused. The old women's cries were
+ill-bred howlings to their ears, their grief a thing to laugh at. They
+made fun of their dress--how they were got up--as if their dress was a
+matter of choice; grew indignant in describing their disgust at the
+scene. Ah, well, these poor mountain peasants were not their neighbors,
+they were people to be looked at, laughed at, sneered at, and passed by
+on the other side; but I--these people are my people and their sorrow
+moveth me.
+
+
+
+
+XLIV.
+
+THE ASHFORD DEMESNE--LORD ARDILAUN--LOUGH CORRIB.
+
+
+The Ashford demesne affords walks or drives for miles. Everything that
+woods and waters, nature and art can do to make Ashford delightful has
+been done. I got a companion, a pretty girl, a permit from some official
+who lived in a cottage at Cong, and set out by way of the Pigeon Hole to
+see at least part of the place.
+
+I may as well mention here how surprised we were to hear the Antrim
+tongue from the recesses of the cave, and to find a group of strangers
+exploring on their own account. They were working men who had come from
+Belfast to work for Lord Ardilaun, and were making the most of a holiday
+before they began. I was very much surprised to see men from Antrim,
+where the wages are much higher than here, come down to work in the west
+where labor is so cheap, and want of work the complaint.
+
+To show how cheaply men work here, I may mention that being at a village
+which lies outside of Lord Ardilaun's demesne, but on his estate, I was
+standing on the road and a clergyman was talking in Irish to a man who
+was employed at mason work in repairing the wall, a small quiet looking
+man who did not stop work as he talked. Of course I could not understand
+more than the scope of their discourse, but I understood distinctly one
+question asked; "How much do you get for a day's work?" "One shilling
+and two pence a day." "Without food of course?" "Of course." I had
+heard in the North that casual laborers get two shillings a day there,
+but they do not get two shillings when employed constantly. The laborers
+on one well-managed estate which I have been over in Antrim are paid ten
+shillings a week, and pay one shilling a week out of that for their
+cottages, which are kept in good repair at the expense of their
+employer. Of course these men must have been workmen skilled in some
+particular work, or they would not have come from the wages of the North
+to the West to work at the common rate of wage going here, which I am
+told is at the highest seven shillings a week and rent to pay out of
+that. Of course, when masons are paid one and twopence, laborers will be
+paid much less.
+
+The avenue along which we travelled was a causeway made at great expense
+along the brow of a steep hill or rather ridge, one side being supported
+by a stone wall. This work, undertaken for the benefit of travellers to
+Ashford, must have afforded constant employment for a good many men for
+a long time. Arriving at a modern archway in the ancient style protected
+by an iron gate, we sought admittance, showing our permit from the
+office. The keeper's wife examined it and passed it over to the keeper,
+who examined it also, asked some prudent, cautious questions, and we
+were admitted to a part of the grounds.
+
+This gate keeper, a remarkably gentlemanly old man, in his respectable
+blue broadcloth, his comely sagacious, weather-beaten face, his guarded
+manner of speaking, and his name, Grant, made me quite sure that he was
+a Highlandman, which he was not, but a Western Irishman. He informed us
+as we went along that only part of the grounds could be seen on account
+of the troubled state of the country. Whether there was any part of the
+demesne that an elderly woman and a pretty girl were likely to run away
+with became a subject of thought to me. Conscientiously this delightful
+old man kept us off tabooed walks and shunted us into permissible
+places. Where all was beautiful and new, and time having a limit, we
+were quite willing when brought to order, to follow on the allowed path.
+
+I was admiring a tree of the regally magnificent kind, leaf-draped
+branches like green robes sweeping down to the emerald sward, that
+always remind me of the glorious trees which sunlight loves to gild in
+the grounds at Castle Coole; I remarked on its exceeding beauty to our
+guide, who said it would bear a nearer view, and we followed him on a
+path through the grass till we stood beside it. Parting the foliage we
+found ourselves at a natural grotto of light-colored stone, where a
+stream of "the purest of crystal" came from under the rock at one end,
+and glancing in the stray beams of sunlight that found their way in
+through the arch of leaves, flashed down a tiny cascade in a shower of
+diamonds, and with a little gurgling laugh hid under the rock again,
+racing on to join the subterranean waters that laugh together over the
+failure of the great canal.
+
+The new tower is built after the fashion of the ancient towers with the
+spiral staircase, that was common to all castles and abbeys of the west.
+The mason work was much coarser and more roughly done, but the imitation
+of the ancient tower was very good other ways. I do not believe that
+modern masons could produce so perfect a specimen of workmanship as the
+tower of Moyne Abbey, with its spiral staircase of black marble. The
+view from the top of the tower at Ashford repaid well the expenditure of
+breath to climb up to it.
+
+The house is a castle and made after the pattern of ancient castles; it
+is large and must contain any amount of lofty and spacious rooms, which
+it is to be supposed are furnished as luxuriously and magnificently as
+possible. It is certainly a very fine building, and looks as nice and
+new as stone and mortar can make it, but the ivy green will soon cover
+it all up with its green mantle. We were not able to walk over even the
+allowed portion of the grounds, as they extended for miles. We parted
+from our gentlemanly conductor at a certain gate. He was so nice that we
+felt almost ashamed to offer the expected gratuity which was, however,
+thankfully received.
+
+I pondered a little way over the man's remarks who had been our guide
+through the demesne. He always kept repeating that we might have been
+shown the gardens and the house, but for the disturbance in the country.
+I wondered to hear hints of trouble on this estate, for no man, woman or
+child, with whom I conversed, but spoke highly of the generosity,
+magnanimity and kindliness of Lord Ardilaun, and his father before him.
+I have seen in his lordship's own writing and over his signature the
+statement that, during prosperous years, even, the rent has not been
+raised, that he had for years spent on his property more than double the
+rental in improvements and for labor. When I read this I thought of the
+causeway raised along the brow of a hill over which I walked in the
+demesne, I thought at the time what an amount of labor was expended to
+place it there. There has also been made an addition to the castle,
+which must have given a great deal of employment. Some, or rather a
+great deal of the property was bought from the late Earl of Leitrim, who
+had raised the rents, it is asserted, to the "highest top sparkle"
+before selling, to enhance the value.
+
+I do not know anything of the value of land here; it is very stony land.
+I was pointed out a field which was not very stony, comparatively
+speaking, but still had more stones, or stony crust rather, than a good
+farmer would desire. I was told it paid L2 per acre. I wonder how it is
+possible to raise rent and taxes off these fields, never to mention
+support for the farmers. The land requires very stimulating manure to
+produce a crop. When bad years come, and render the tenant farmers
+unable to purchase guano, the crops are worthless almost. The necessity
+of buying artificial manure is a terrible necessity that American
+farmers know nothing of.
+
+I dare say the tenants expect too much in many instances, for they are
+accustomed to be treated as children in leading strings. The amount of
+dependence on this one and that one in superior stations is very
+wonderful, but their utter helplessness to take the first step toward
+better times is also wonderful. I have heard of men, by the last bad
+seasons unable to buy guano, having to strip the roofs off their houses
+that the rain may wash off the soot into the land to fructify it. On
+account of shelter for game, it is not permissible to cut heather for
+bedding, for stock, or covering for houses. Breaking this prohibition
+even on land for which they pay rent and taxes is, they complain,
+punished with fines of from two and sixpence to seven and sixpence for
+as much as could be carried on the back.
+
+For a farmer to get on here he must be able to buy manure. The crop on a
+farm has to pay rent, which is high, and taxes, which are heavy, even if
+no guard for somebody has to be paid for, or no malicious outrage is
+levied for on the county in compensation, and manure, which, if got
+before paying, is charged, I am told, twenty-five percent additional for
+waiting; all this must be met before the support of the family can be
+thought of beyond merely existing. The more one looks at the want of the
+people, the more one becomes bewildered with the perplexities of the
+situation, and the more hopeless about the setting of things right by
+the Land Bill or anything else.
+
+It is pleasant to hear on all sides praises of Lord Ardilaun as a high-
+spirited, generous man. The slight difference of opinion between him and
+his people is blamed on the fact of his not being able to understand how
+poor the tenants are, or how what is little in his eyes may be life or
+death to them. There was some trouble, I believe, about the building of
+a causeway across to some sacred island, which was built by the people
+without leave asked, or in spite of prohibition given; but in the main I
+think that Lord Ardilaun is very much loved.
+
+How it does rain in this green land. I think it rained every day of the
+days I remained at Cong except the blink of sunshine that shone on the
+castle and grounds the day that I went over part of the Ashford
+_demesne_.
+
+At Cong, for the first time in my life, I heard the Irish lament or
+caoine for the dead. Some one was brought in from the country to be
+buried in the Abbey of Cong. It was a simple country funeral. The dead
+was borne on one of the carts of the country, followed by the neighbors,
+and accompanied by the parish priest of Cong. The day was very wet even
+for Ireland. After the burial service was over the women, kneeling by
+the new made grave, among the rank wet grass, and the dripping ivy,
+raised the caoine. It was a most unearthly sound, sweet like singing,
+sad like crying, rising up among the ruined towers, and clinging ivy and
+floating up heavenwards. I believe the stories of banshees must have
+arisen from the sound of the caoine. These mourning women were very
+skilful, I was told, and were relations of the dead whom they mourned,
+and whose good qualities mingled with their love and grief rose in
+wailing cry and floated weirdly over the ruins and up to the clouds.
+
+I had at this time an invitation from Mr. Sydney Bellingham to come over
+to Castle Bellingham to see life from another standpoint. I was standing
+at the window debating with myself. I did not like to leave the West
+before seeing a little more of it, and I do want, in the interests of
+truth, to look at things from every available standpoint. If I go to
+Castle Bellingham I must go now, I reasoned, for after this they go to
+England. As I stood there thinking, a handsome car dashed past with a
+gentleman and lady on it, followed by another with a guard of policemen.
+I enquired who this guarded gentleman was, and was told it was that Mr.
+Bourke who went into the Catholic church armed to the teeth.
+
+I have been nearly five months in Ireland, travelling about almost
+constantly, and as yet have only seen three persons who were protected
+by police, two men and one woman. I decided to leave Cong, and after
+studying on the map the nearest way to Castle Bellingham, determined to
+take that way.
+
+Left Cong in the early morning to sail down Lough Corrib to Galway. For
+some reason the landing place has been altered, and is now some distance
+from Cong, at which it used to be. This change is a drawback to Cong.
+There are mills at Cong that used to grind indian corn, but they are not
+used now for some reason or other, and are falling into ruin. The
+shifting of the landing place was done by Lord Ardilaun, the stoppage of
+the mills by him also. The landing place where the little steamer waited
+for freight and passengers had a little crowd, who seemed to have more
+to do than just to look on, and there was a little hum of traffic that
+sounded cheerful.
+
+It was a very windy day; Lough Corrib's waves had white caps on. The sun
+came out fitfully, and the clouds swept great shadows over the mountain
+sides. There were patches of green oats bathed in sunshine, and
+plantations of larch and fir standing close and locked in shadow. The
+wind was so strong that the little steamer seemed to plough her way with
+a bobbing motion like the coots on Lough Gill. We had a fine view from
+the lake of Ashford _demesne_, and the castle looking still grander
+and newer in the distance, all its towers and pinnacles bathed in the
+cold sunshine.
+
+There are many islands in Lough Corrib besides the islands that the
+priest and people of Clonbur built the causeway to. It is strange that
+two lords take their titles from islands in this lake, Lord Inchiquin
+and Lord Ardilaun. Some of the peasantry felt hurt because Lord Ardilaun
+took his title from an island instead of from some part of the mainland.
+I was pointed out in the distance from the lake, Moytura house, the home
+of Sir William Wilde; it stands where was fought the battle of Moytura
+in ancient times.
+
+From the steamer we saw the ruined fortress, Annabreen Castle, said to
+be six hundred years old. The masonry is very curious, being all done
+within and without, quoins, doorways, window frames, of undressed stone,
+and yet most admirably done.
+
+I stood on the deck of the little steamer while the wind blew in the
+teeth of the little boat and made her shiver and rock, and I endured
+sharp neuralgiac pain, and lost my veil, which was blown off and went
+sailing off into the lake because I would not miss seeing all Lough
+Corrib had to show. I saw the ivy plaided walls of Caislean na
+Cailliach, and on a little island the remains of an old uncemented stone
+fort, so old that antiquity has forgotten it. The scenery was very
+grand, the islands grassy and round, or waving with trees, the lake
+covered with white horses riding with tossing manes to the shore; the
+little boat with its broad breast holding its own against the swells,
+the shores with green mountains checked off into fields, with higher
+mountains blue in the distance rising behind them. All under
+
+  "The skies of dear Erin, our mother
+   Where sunshine and shadow are chasing each other."
+
+The little steamer steamed up to the wharf and backed and stopped, in
+most American fashion, at a lonely backwoods-looking wharf, but the
+pillars for the snubbing rope were pillars of stone, and near were the
+ruins of a tall square castle in good preservation. There are also the
+walls of the bishop's residence here, with the bells of St. Brendan;
+they told me this was the saint who discovered the happy land flowing
+with milk and honey, the key to which lies hidden in Cuneen Miaul's tomb
+and the ruins of an extensive abbey, a monastery and a nunnery and other
+buildings.
+
+Truly the banks and islands of Lough Corrib are made classic by ruins.
+They say the carved mouldings and stone work on these ruins are
+considered the most beautiful and most perfect in Ireland. We passed,
+farther on, the ruins of Armaghdown, the castle fort of the bog. After
+this the land got low and flat, and we saw Menlough Castle, where a
+baronet of the name of Blake resides, when he's at home. It is counted
+the most beautiful of all the ancient castles which are still inhabited.
+All I can say is, it looked well from the lake. Lough Corrib is
+calculated to cover 44,000 acres, and is well supplied with fish.
+
+
+
+
+XLV.
+
+THE EASTERN COAST--THE LAND QUESTION FROM A LANDLORD'S STANDPOINT.
+
+
+Went through Galway to the station as fast as a jaunting car could take
+me, and took the train for Dublin.
+
+Crossing Ireland thus from Galway to Dublin, I noticed that the land got
+to be more uniformly fertile as we neared the eastern coast. From Dublin
+the road ran down the coast, in sight of the sea for most part. Through
+counties Dublin, Meath and Louth, the land looked like the garden of
+Eden. It was all like one demesne heavy with trees, interspersed with
+large fields having rich crops and great meadows waving with grass; the
+cultivation, so weedless, so regular, every ridge and furrow as straight
+as a rule could make it, every corner cultivated most scrupulously. It
+was a great pleasure to look at the farms. Truly this is a rich and
+fertile land. And yet in no place which I have seen so far have I
+noticed any laborers' cottages, fit to live in, except on a few places
+in Antrim.
+
+This east coast was beautiful exceedingly, and yet I saw on this good
+land mud huts which were not fit to be kennels for dogs inhabited by
+human beings. I heard a shilling a week spoken of as rent for these
+abominable pigsties, collected every Saturday night. Twenty-five cents
+looks small, but it is taken out of a small wage. The country railway
+stations are very nice to look at.
+
+Arrived at Castle Bellingham, received a very kindly welcome indeed.
+Felt inclined to snuggle down into enjoyment here, to the neglect of my
+work. The country is so fertile, so beautiful, the large fields waving
+with luxuriant crops. The roses are in bloom climbing over the fronts of
+the houses, clinging round the second-story windows and on to the roof.
+It is a feast to look at them, hanging their heads heavy with beauty in
+clusters of three, creamy-white or red of every shade, from the faintest
+pink to the velvet leaf of deepest crimson. I suppose that they flourish
+best amid frequent rains, for this has been a remarkably rainy season,
+and the wealth of roses is wonderful to see, the air is sweet with their
+breath.
+
+South Gate House, Castle Bellingham, is one of the houses that tempts
+one to the breach of the tenth commandment. I have stood in the front
+garden and looked at it trying to learn it off by heart. It is draped
+with a wonderful variety of roses climbing over it, wreathing round it,
+heavy with bloom. Every inch of land in the front garden is utilized
+with the taste that creates beauty. Inside the house is a constant
+surprise; the comfort and cosiness, the space to be comfortable in, room
+after room appearing as a new revelation, made it appear a very
+desirable residence to me.
+
+At the end of the house, from the conservatory, can be seen the tree
+under which His Majesty, of glorious, pious and immortal memory, eat his
+luncheon on his way to fight for a kingdom at the Boyne. The Bellinghams
+were an old family then. Some say proudly, "We came over with good King
+William." Others can say, "He found us here when he came."
+
+The evening after my arrival was taken up looking at the house, looking
+at the grounds, wondering over the ferns and flowers, and deciding that
+it was rather nice to be an Irish country gentleman. The next morning
+found me through the gardens wondering over the abundance of fruit and
+the perfect management that made the most of every corner.
+
+Mr. Bellingham drove me over to Dunany Castle, where Sir Allan
+Bellingham resides at present. The road lay through the usual beautiful
+country that spreads along this east coast, plantations of fine trees,
+large fields of grain, great meadows and bean fields that perfumed the
+air. We passed a large mill; I took particular notice of it, because
+mills do not often occur as a feature in the landscape on the western
+coast. There were mills at Westport belonging to the Messrs.
+Livingstone, but they were not as obtrusive as American mills are. One
+became aware of them by the prosperity they created. In Cong, the corn
+mill standing idle and falling to ruin, was the last mill which I had
+observed. This was one reason of my noticing this mill, which was busily
+working.
+
+When we came where the road lay along the shore, Mr. Bellingham stopped
+the carriage that I might see the salmon fishers hauling in their nets.
+This salmon fishery is very valuable. In 1845 the right to fish here was
+paid for at the rate of L10 per annum; in 1881 the right to fish brings
+L130. Still, I am told, the man who has the fishing makes a great deal.
+The fish are exported. This salmon fishery belongs to Sir Allan
+Bellingham. It was a strange sight to me to see so many men and boys
+walking unconcernedly waist deep in the sea. I wondered over the number
+of men and boys which were required to haul in one net. Truly, fishing
+is a laborious business, but still, how pleasant to see the busy fisher
+folk, and to know that work brings meat. I remembered the silent waters
+on long stretches of the western shores. I remembered the rejoicing at
+Dromore west, over the Canadian given boats. God bless, and prosper, and
+multiply the fisher folk. In from the sea, through the pleasant land, we
+drove a little farther into the solemn woods that surround Dunany
+Castle. As we neared the castle the woods became broken into a lawn and
+pleasure ground, and at a sudden turn we found ourselves before the
+castle. I am not yet tired of looking at castles, whether in ruins, as
+relics of the past, or inhabited as the "stately houses where the
+wealthy people dwell."
+
+Dunany, with its court-yard, where wines, climbing roses and Virginia
+creepers grew luxuriantly over the battlemented walls, reminded me of
+descriptions I had read of Moorish houses in sunny Spain. Every house
+has a history, and it is no wonder if these great houses tell a story of
+other times and other scenes that has a powerful influence on the minds
+of the descendants of those who founded these houses and carved out
+these fortunes. There were little children playing before the castle,
+happy and free, that ran to meet their uncle.
+
+We were received by Sir Thomas Butler, Sir Allan's son-in-law, whom I
+had met with before on the evening of my arrival at Castle Bellingham.
+My errand to Dunany Castle was, strictly speaking, to gather the
+opinions of these gentlemen on the land question, but the quaint,
+foreign look of the castle, and the historic names of Butler and
+Bellingham, sent my mind off into the past, to the battle of the Boyne,
+and into the dimness beyond, when the war cry of "A Butler" was a
+rallying cry that had power in the green vales of Erin.
+
+In the cold Celtic times when men held by the strong hand, the numerical
+fighting power of the clan was of the utmost importance, a chieftain
+being valued by the number of men who would follow him to the field. As
+a consequence, men were precious. In these more peaceful times, when the
+lords of the soil are rated by their many acres, lands, and not likely
+lads, are the symbol of greatness.
+
+Sir Allan Bellingham is such a fresh-looking active gentleman that I
+could hardly bring myself to think that he had reached, by reason of
+strength, the scriptural fourscore. I was almost too much taken up
+admiring to think of the Land Question, but, after the fashionable five
+o'clock tea, had some conversation with Sir Allan and Sir Thomas on the
+subject.
+
+Sir Allan thought the Land League much to blame for the present
+miserable state of affairs. Men well able to pay their rents, and
+supposed to be willing to pay their rents, were prevented from paying
+from a system of terrorism inaugurated by the Land League. Some
+instances were given. One was of the man who had the mill which we
+passed on the road, who being behind in his rent, was willing to pay but
+dare not do it. Certainly by the busy appearance of the mill and by the
+style of his dwelling-house it did not seem to be inability that kept
+him from paying. Another instance was that of a man holding a large
+farm, on which he had erected a fine house, which I saw in passing, a
+very nice residence indeed, with plate glass windows, and carpeted
+throughout with Brussels carpets, I am told. The large fields were
+waving with a fine crop; there were some grand fields of wheat, the
+stack yard had many stacks of last year's grain and hay. This man had
+given his son lately L2500 to settle himself on a farm. It certainly
+would not be poverty that prevented him paying his rent, for there was
+every evidence of wealth around him. I heard of men, who, having paid
+their rent, could not get their horses shod at the blacksmith's shop.
+For breaking the rules of the Land League they were set apart from their
+fellows.
+
+I can well imagine that serious embarrassments must arise to landlords
+when their rents, their only income, are kept back from them. How I
+would rejoice to know that landlord and tenant were reconciled once
+more, that lordship and leadership were united in one person.
+
+Sir Thomas Butler informed me that, "when a landlord dies and his son
+succeeds him the Government do not charge him succession duty on his
+rental but on Griffith's (or the Poor Law) valuation of his estate, plus
+30 per cent. If his estate is rented at only 10 per cent over the
+valuation, he has to pay Government all the same, and is consequently
+over charged 20 per cent because in the opinion of the Government
+authorities, the fair letting value of land is from 25 to 30 per cent
+over Griffiths valuation, and they charge accordingly." (I suppose it is
+founded upon this law of succession duty that when a tenant dies the
+widow has the rent raised upon her.) "Under the Bright clauses of the
+Land Act of 1870 the Government is authorized to advance to the tenant
+two-thirds of the purchase money for his holding. At first the Treasury
+fixed 24 years' purchase of the valuation as the scale they would adopt,
+and under that they lent 16 years' purchase to the tenant, who at once
+remonstrated that their interest was a great deal more. After numerous
+enquiries, &c., the treasury changed the 24 years into 30 years, and
+consequently let the tenants 20 years value of their valuation, they
+finding the other ten years, clearly showing that in the opinion of the
+tenants themselves and the Government land was worth 30 years' purchase
+of its valuation. What is the proposal now by the tenants and agitators?
+That they should clearly only pay at the rate of Griffith's valuation,
+which, a few years ago, they themselves asserted was fifty percent below
+the selling value, and which valuation was taken when wheat, oats,
+barley, butter, beef, mutton and pork were much below the present value.
+Landlords have not raised their rents in proportion. My own estate in
+1843 had 116 tenants, in 1880 it had 105 tenants on 5,760 statute acres.
+The difference in the rent paid in 1880 over that paid in 1843 is L270,
+barely six percent on the whole rental, which is almost 16 percent over
+valuation. Over L2,000 was forgiven in the bad years after potato
+famine, and over L1,000 has been lost by nonpaying tenants, and a
+considerable sum has been expended in improvements without charging the
+tenant interest; in some cases the cost has been divided between
+landlord and tenant. It is a very common practice in Ireland to fix a
+rent for a tenant and to reduce that rent on the tenant executing
+certain improvements. No improving tenant, or one who pays his rent, is
+ever disturbed in possession of his farm--it is only the insolvent one
+that is put out, and by the time the landlord can obtain possession of
+the farm it is always in a most delapidated condition. An ejectment for
+non-payment of rent cannot be brought till a clear year's rent is due,
+and usually the tenant owes more before it is brought, and he has always
+from date of decree to redeem the farm by paying what is due on the
+decree with costs. The landlord has, in case of redemption by the
+tenant, to account for the profits he has made out of the land during
+the six months. When dilapidation and waste have taken place no
+compensation for the loss can be obtained by the landlord from the the
+tenant. In cases of leases, the landlord finds it quite impossible to
+enforce the covenants for good tillage and preservation of fences,
+buildings, &c. Poor rates, sanitary, medical charities, election
+expenses, cattle diseases and sundry other charges are paid by the poor
+rate, which is levied on the valuation of house or farm property,
+consequently the funded property-holder, banks, commercial
+establishments pay far less in proportion to business done than the
+landholder, who cannot make as much out of a L50 holding as a banker or
+publican ought to do out of a house valued at L50. The present agitation
+against rents is political, and the rent question has been brought
+prominently forward by the leaders with the view of getting the farmers
+on their side as the great voting power. It would have been quite
+useless their endeavoring to enlist the farmers without promising them
+something to their own advantage; but the interest in the land is only a
+veil under which the advances for total separation from England can be
+made, and will be thrown aside when no further use can be made of it."
+
+These are Sir Thomas Butler's sentiments and opinions. His opinions,
+formed from his standpoint, are worthy of consideration. With a
+lingering look at bonnie Dunany, we bade adieu to Lady Butler and the
+two baronets, and were driven back to South Gate over another and more
+inland road.
+
+
+
+
+XLVI.
+
+THE EAST AND THE WEST--LANDLORDS AND LANDLORDS.
+
+
+For good and sufficient reasons the railway carriage whisked through
+the rich country, carrying me from Castle Bellingham to Rath Cottage by
+the Moat of Dunfane. There is one beautiful difference between the North
+and the West; the North is full of people, the hill sides are dotted
+thickly with white dwellings--so much for the Ulster Custom. It pleases
+the people to tell them that the superior prosperity of their northern
+fields is due to their religious faith. Some parts of Lord Mount
+Cashel's estate, when sold in the Encumbered Estates Court, did not pass
+into hands governed by the same opinions as to the rights and duties
+which property confers as are held by Mr. Young, of Galgorm Castle.
+Their tenants complain of rack rents as bitterly as if they lived in the
+west. They are looking eagerly to the new law for redress. In fact when
+they find their tenant-right eaten up by a vast increase of rent they
+consider their faith powerless in the face of their landlord's works.
+
+I do not think any one can pass through this country without noticing a
+vast difference which is not a religious difference, between one
+property as to management and another, between one part of the country
+and another. In some parts the tenants build the houses, whatever sort
+of houses they are able to build; they repair them as they are able, and
+the landlords get the rent of them. If by any means they can improve
+them, the landlord improves the rent to a higher figure.
+
+I was over one property in the County Antrim, the property of a man who
+combines landholding as a middleman, with trade in linen fabrics and
+manufacturing or bleaching, or both. I cannot say that this gentleman is
+excessively popular, but he is exceedingly prosperous. His private
+residence, as far as taste goes, a taste that can be gratified
+regardless of expense, is as perfectly beautiful within its limits as
+the property of any lord of the soil which I have come across. Indeed,
+the arrangements made at such cost, kept up to such perfection, spoke of
+one who owed his income to trade and not to his land alone. His hot-
+houses, heavy with grapes, rich with peaches and nectarines, and
+fragrant with rare flowers, were verily on a lordly scale. It was his
+tenement houses that attracted my attention chiefly. They were well-
+roofed, slated in almost every instance; not a roof was broken that he
+owned. The cottages were rough cast and washed over with drab; they were
+covered with roses that were in as rich bloom as if they were blooming
+for gentry. Truly the tenants planted them, but a tenant who plants
+roses is not living in a state of desperation as to the means of
+existence. When he sent men to wash over the tenement houses, and the
+good wives trembled for the roses. "The gardener shall come and arrange
+them again and see that they are not harmed in the least," he said.
+
+They tell me that this gentleman, being a trader with a commercial mind,
+takes for his tenements the utmost they will bring. If so, when he
+builds the houses, and keeps them in thorough repair, it is surely doing
+what he will with his own. Others who do not build, who never repair,
+surely raise the rent on what is, strictly and honestly speaking, not
+their own.
+
+There is a difference between this gentleman, whose tenants say, "He
+will send his own gardener to fix up the roses again after the white, or
+rather gray washing," and the lord in the West whose tenants say, "If he
+saw a patch of flowers at the door, he would compel us to grub it up as
+something beyond our station."
+
+The agent on the Galgorm estate told me that during twenty-five years,
+when he was in Lord Mount Cashel's land office, there was but one
+eviction, and that man got four hundred pounds for his tenant right
+before he left the yard. This is one man's testimony of one landlord.
+
+Ulster, as a whole, has had more evictions, pending the Land Bill, than
+any other of the provinces. It is true that she has more people to
+evict. Her rent-roll during the last-eighty years has risen from
+L124,481 to L1,440,072. One million, three hundred and fifteen thousand
+five hundred and ninety one pounds of a rise.
+
+
+
+
+XLVII.
+
+THE CENTRAL COUNTIES--SOME SLEEPY TOWNS.
+
+
+Away from the North once more, this time direct southwards; paused on
+the Sabbath-day in the neighborhood of Tandragee, and went to a field-
+meeting at a place called Balnabeck--I wonder if I spell it right? This
+gathering in a church-yard for preaching is held yearly as a
+commemoration service because John Wesley preached in this same
+graveyard when he made an evangelistic tour in Ireland. Although this is
+only a yearly service, and a commemoration service of one whom the
+people delight to honor, they made it pretty much a penitential service.
+There were no seats but what the damp earth afforded, no stand for the
+officiating minister but a grave; it was not, therefore, a very
+attentive congregation which he addressed. The speaker, a Mr. Pepper,
+had emigrated from thence when a lad to America. He now returned to the
+people who had known him in earlier days. It was certainly listening
+under difficulties, and we were obliged to leave, by limb-weariness,
+before the service was over.
+
+I had an opportunity on the morrow of seeing the handsome weaving of
+damask. The looms are very complicated and expensive affairs, and do not
+belong to the weaver but to the manufacturer. The pattern is traced on
+stiff paper in holes. Was very much interested in watching the process
+of weaving; of course did not understand it, and therefore wondered over
+it. The web was two and a half yards wide, was double damask of a fern
+pattern. The weaver, a young and nice-looking man, with the assured
+manner of a skilled worker, informed me proudly that he could earn three
+shillings a day--75 cents. Out of this magnificent income he paid the
+rent of his house--which was not a palace either--and supported his
+wife and family. His wife, a pretty and rather refined looking young
+woman, had a baby, teething sick, in the cradle. It must wail, and
+mother could only look her love and coo to it in softest tones, for if
+she took the little feverish sufferer up the pirns would be unwound and
+the husband's three shillings would have a hole in it, so both wife and
+baby had a share in the earning of that three shillings--baby's share
+the hardest of all.
+
+Called in to see another weaver of damask to-day; he could earn fifteen
+pence a day. He was a melancholy little man, of a pugnacious turn of
+mind, I am afraid. He said that fifteen pence a day was but little out
+of which to pay rent and support a wife and family. Thinking of the wife
+and baby at the other house, we said that seeing the wife wound the
+bobbins, cooked, kept house, nursed and washed for her family that she
+earned her full share of the fifteen pence. Would not be surprised to
+hear that there had been a controversy raging on this very subject
+before we came in, the man's face became so glum and the woman's so
+triumphant. It was an enthusiastic blessing she threw after us when we
+left.
+
+Visited a great thread factory, where the yarn is made ready that is
+woven into double damask, and thread for all purposes supplied to all
+parts. In whatever part of Ireland the tall factory chimney rises up
+into the air the people have not the look of starvation that is stamped
+on the poor elsewhere. Still, if we consider a wage of seven to twelve
+shillings a week--twelve in this factory was the general wages--and
+subtract from that two shillings a week for the house and three
+shillings a week for fuel the operators are not likely to lay up large
+fortunes. As they have no gardens to the houses owned by the factory,
+nor backyard accommodation of any kind, the cleanliness and tidy
+appearance of houses and workpeople are a credit to them. But when times
+grow hard, and the mills run half time, and not even a potato to fall
+back upon, there must be great suffering behind these walls.
+
+There are large schools, national schools, in this village, and the
+children over ten years of age, who work in the factory, go to school
+half time. They are paid at the rate of two-pence halfpenny a day for
+the work of the other half of the day--that is equivalent to five cents.
+The teachers of the schools informed me that, when the little ones came
+in the morning, as they did on alternate weeks, that they learned well,
+but when they came in the afternoon they were sleepy and listless. On
+that morning they had to rise at five o'clock.
+
+The schools which I have seen in Ireland, for so far, are conducted on
+the old plan; children learn their lessons at home, repeat them to the
+teachers in school, who never travel out of record, are trained in
+obedience, respect to superiors, and in order, more or less, according
+to the nature of the teacher. They still adhere to the broad sound of A,
+which has been so universally abandoned on the other side of the water.
+
+The factories at Gilford are very remunerative; great fortunes, allowing
+of the purchase of landed estates and the building of more than one
+castlelike mansion have been made in them. From Tandragee to Portadown,
+in Armagh, which we travelled in a special car, took us through the same
+green country waving with crops, and in some places shaded heavily with
+trees. In the environs of Gilford--as if that very clean manufacturing
+town set an example that was universally followed--all the houses are
+clean and white as to the outside, further away the dreadful-looking
+homes abound. Portadown, all we saw of it, just passing through, is a
+clean and thrifty little town.
+
+We would have liked to linger in Armagh a little while, but we must
+hurry down to the South. Got a glimpse of Armagh Catholic cathedral--a
+very fine building, not so grand, however, as the Cathedral at Sligo.
+Took notice of a very fine memorial window, with the name of Archbishop
+Crolly on it. I remember him very well, saw him frequently, got a pat on
+the head from him occasionally. He seemed partial to the little folks,
+when we played in the chapel yard--a nice place to play in was the
+chapel yard in Donegal street. He was then Bishop Crolly, and I was a
+very small heretic, who loved to play on forbidden ground. Walked about
+a little in Armagh between the trains, saw that there were many fine
+churches and other nice buildings from the outside view of them, and
+passed on to Clones. The land as seen from the railway is good in some
+places, poor in others, but in all parts plenty of houses not fit to be
+human habitations are to be seen.
+
+Clones is a little town on a hill, with a history that stretches back
+into the dim ages. It has a round tower that threatens to fall, and
+will, too, some windy night; an abbey almost gone, but whose age and
+weakness is propped up by modern repairs, as, they say, the tenure of
+some land depends on the old gable of the abbey standing; a three-story
+fort, that, as Clones is built on a hill and the fort is built on
+Clones, affords a wide view of the surrounding country. Clones has a
+population of over two thousand, has no manufactory, depends entirely on
+the surrounding farming population, does not publish a newspaper, and is
+quietly behind the age a century or two. The loyal people who monopolize
+the loyalty are in their own way very loyal. It is delightfully sleepy,
+swarming with little shops with some little things to sell; but where
+are the buyers? If a real rush of business were to come to Clones I
+would tremble for the consequences, for it is not used to it.
+
+I was quartered in the most loyal corner of all the loyal places in
+Clones. Every wall on which my eyes rested proclaimed that fact. Here
+was framed all the mysterious symbols of Orangeism, which are very like
+the mysterious symbols of masonry to ignorant eyes. There was King
+William in scarlet, holding out his arm to some one in crimson, who
+informed the world that "a bullet from the Irish came that grazed King
+William's arm." On the next wall is the battle of the Boyne, with some
+pithy lines under.
+
+  "And now the well-contested strand successive columns gain,
+   While backward James' yielding band is borne across the plain;
+   In vain the sword that Erin draws and life away doth fling,
+   O worthy of a better cause and of a nobler king!
+   But many a gallant spirit there retreats across the plain,
+   Who, change but kings, would gladly dare that battlefield again."
+
+I read that verse, like it, transcribe it, and turn to study the
+handsome face of Johnston of Ballykillbeg, who is elevated into the
+saint's place alongside of King William on many, many cottage walls,
+when the hostess appears. Noting the direction of my glance, she informs
+me of the martyrdom which Mr. Johnston has suffered from Government. She
+has a confused idea that Mr. Johnston is at present returning good for
+evil by holding our gracious Queen upon the throne in some indirect way.
+
+After carefully finding out what my religious opinions are, she informs
+me of evangelistic services that are held in a tent at the foot of the
+hill on which Clones sits. These services are not, she says, in
+connection with the "Hallelujahs" or the "Salvations," but are
+authorized by the Government, and are under the wing of the Episcopal
+Church. Of course tent services under the wing of the Episcopal Church
+are worth going to, so we attend.
+
+The service is quite as evangelical as if it were preached by
+"Hallelujahs." There is a very large audience, and the people seem very
+attentive. My hostess is much affected. She tells me that if she can
+work hard and manage well and be content with her station, reverencing
+her betters as she ought to do, she hopes to get to heaven at last.
+Almost in the same breath she informs me that all the people of Mayo
+will go to hell, if any one goes, for that is their _desarvings_.
+Yes. The Mayo people are sure to be damned. "God forgive me for saying
+so," adds my hostess, as a saving clause. I am afraid the evangelistic
+services have failed as yet as far as my hostess is concerned; and Mayo,
+beautiful and desolate Mayo, may be glad that the keys of that
+inconveniently warm climate are not kept by a Clones woman whom I know.
+
+There are few who have not something to be proud of. My woman of Clones
+is proud of the fact that she entertained and lodged for a night the
+potato pilgrims--thirty-five of them--who went to Captain Boycott's
+relief down to Lough Mask. After she had mentioned this circumstance a
+few times, and did seem to take much spiritual comfort from the face, I
+ventured to inquire if she were paid for it. Oh, yes, she was; but if
+she had not been--she was all on the right side, she was that; and if
+she had the power would sweep every Papist off the face of the earth.
+She was wicked, she said, on this subject.
+
+I did not believe this woman; her talk was mere party blow. The whole
+street about her was full of Papists, small and great. I do not think
+she would sweep the smallest child off the face of the earth, except by
+a figure of speech. There are those who really know what language means
+who are responsible for this bloodthirsty kind of talk. It means little,
+but it keeps up party spirit.
+
+I thought of speeches which I heard on the 12th of July by ministers of
+the Gospel, with all the Scripture quotations from Judges, and Samuel,
+telling an inflamable people--only they were too busy with their drums
+and fifes to listen--that "God took the side of fighting men--Gideon
+meant battle--an angel was at the head of the Lord's host--Scotland was
+especially blest because it was composed of fighting men." Does the
+Gospel mean brother to war against brother for the possession of his
+field? How much need there is for our loving Lord to rebuke His
+disciples by telling them again, "Ye know not what manner of spirit ye
+are of, for the leaders of my people cause them to err."
+
+Clones takes its name from a word that may signify the meadow of Eois,
+or high meadow. It has a history that goes back to grope about Ararat
+for the potsherds thrown out of the ark. It has a very old and famous
+round tower, used at some time as a place of sepulchre, for a great
+quantity of human bones have been found in it. In one stone of this
+tower is the mark of two toes printed into the stone, or the mark of
+some fossil remains dislodged by a geological hammer.
+
+As Clones sits upon a hill, and the fort sits on the highest part, it
+commands an extensive view. There is also an ancient cross in the market
+square, once elaborately carved in relief, but the figures are worn
+indistinct. There are the remains of an old castle built in among the
+modern walls and hidden out of sight. There are stories of an
+underground passage between the abbey and the castle. In fact, they came
+on this underground way when levelling the market space, but did not
+explore it. There is such a romance about mystery that it is as well, I
+suppose, not to let too much daylight shine in upon it.
+
+Clones, with its abbey, was burned by De Lacy in the thirteenth century,
+which was, perhaps, its last burning.
+
+I was glad on the evening on which I climbed to the top of the fort to
+find little gardens lying up the slope at the back of the poorer houses.
+Clones is better off in this respect by being behind the age. In Antrim
+and Down, in too many instances, the farmers have taken the cotter's
+gardens into their fields. I wished to be sure if the gardens belonged
+to the people who lived in the thatched cottages, and I spoke across the
+hedge to a man who was digging potatoes in one of them, a man with a
+leather apron, marking him out as a shoemaker, and a merry, contented
+face. Yes, the gardens belonged to the cottages at the foot of the hill.
+All the cottages had gardens in Clones. The people had all gardens in
+Clones. They were not any of them in want. They had enough, thank God.
+There was every prospect of a good harvest and a good harvest brought
+plenty to every home.
+
+A few words often change the world to us. I climbed the three-storey
+fort at Clones feeling sad and hopeless in the grey evening, everything
+seemed chill and dreary like the damp wind, and this man's cheery words
+of rejoicing over the prospect of good crops, over the yield of the
+little gardens, touched me as if sunset splendor had fallen over the
+world, and I came down comforted with the thought that our Father who
+gives fruitful seasons will also find a way for Ireland to emerge from
+the thick darkness of her present misery.
+
+I was referred to the Presbyterian minister of Clones for information on
+the antiquities of Clones, and from his lecture, which he with great
+kindness read to me, I gathered what historical hints I have inserted
+here. At the minister's I met with a pleasant-faced, motherly looking
+lady who talked to me of the Land question, the prevailing topic. From
+remarks she made I gathered that she was an enthusiastic church member,
+but on the Land question she had no ideas of either justice or mercy
+that could possibly extend beyond the privileged classes. I referred to
+the excessive rents, she gave a mild shake of her motherly chin and
+spoke of the freedom of contract. I spoke of new landlords making new
+and oppressive office rules and raising the rents above the power to pay
+of the tenants he found there when coming into possession. She said they
+might suffer justly if they had no written guarantee. She actually
+considered that a gentleman was not bound by his word of promise, nor
+did he inherit any _verbal_ agreement entered into by the man from
+whom he inherited his property. I spoke of the hardship of a long life
+of toil and penury ending in the workhouse. She said when they knew they
+must go into the workhouse eventually why did they not go in at once
+without giving so much trouble. I asked her if she, who seemed to know
+what it was to be a mother, would not if it were her own case put off
+going into the workhouse, which meant parting with her children, to the
+very last. The idea of mentioning her name in the one breath with these
+people precluded the possibility of answering. She threw down her
+knitting and left the room.
+
+Was it not sad to think that this Christian lady had yet to learn the
+embracing first two words of the Lord's prayer, Our Father. Looking at
+the strength of this caste prejudice, as strong here as in India, I
+often feel sad, but Our Father reigns. Protestant ministers belonging
+_ex-officio_ to this upper caste, and being, so to speak, a few
+flights of stairs above their people, cannot speak with the power of
+knowledge which our Lord had by His companionship with the poor of His
+people.
+
+I was more astonished than I can describe at the sentiments that met me
+in this red hot corner of Monaghan. "The people were armed," they said,
+"the people had revolvers and pikes, they would rise and murder them if
+they were let up at all." They did not exactly know what this let up
+meant, and I am sure I did not either. I heard a great deal about '98;
+surely '98 ought to get away into the past and not remain as a present
+date forever. I cannot for the life of me see what '98 has to do with
+allowing a man to live by his labor in his own country. The land
+question affects all and is outside of these old remembrances.
+
+I must acknowledge that I have heard no Roman Catholic mix the land
+question with religion; they keep it by itself. I was informed that when
+I passed Clones I was in Ireland, as if Clones was an outpost of some
+other country.
+
+The Episcopal Church in Clones is built on an eminence and is reached by
+a serious flight of steps; it looks down on the ancient cross which
+stands in the market place. This church is being repaired and was
+therefore open, so I climbed the long flight of steps and went in to see
+it. It certainly is being greatly improved. A grand ceiling has replaced
+the old one, a fine organ and stained glass windows add to the glory of
+the house. I had an opportunity of speaking with the rector, and his
+curate, I imagine. They pointed out the improvements in the church,
+which I admired, of course, and they told me some news which was of more
+interest to me than either organ tone or dim religious light streaming
+through stained glass.
+
+They said that the temperance cause was flourishing in connection with
+their congregation. Both these clergymen were strict teetotalers, they
+said, and workers in the total abstinence field. The number of pledged
+adherents to the temperance cause had increased some hundreds within a
+given time. There was every encouragement to go on in the fight with all
+boldness. Truly these gentlemen had good cheer for me in what they said
+on this subject, for the drinking customs are a great curse to the
+people of the land wherever I have been.
+
+From Clones to Belturbet Junction, where there were no cars, and there
+was the alternative of waiting at the station from two to seven p.m., or
+getting a special car. Waiting was not to be thought of for a moment, so
+got a car and a remarkably easy-going driver. He informed me that the
+rate of wages about that part of the country was one shilling a day with
+food. He thought the people were not very poor. The crops were good, the
+wages not bad, and he thought the people were very contented. Belturbet
+is another quiet little town, larger than Clones I should say. Like
+Clones it has no newspaper, no specific industry, but depends on the
+farmers round.
+
+Procured a car and drove out to the village of Drumalee. The land is
+middling good as far as the eye can judge. This neighborhood abounds
+with small lakes. Here for the first time I saw lads going to fish with
+the primitive fishing rods peculiar to country boys. The country round
+here is full of people and there is no appearance of extreme poverty.
+The houses are rather respectable looking, comparatively speaking.
+
+There is a fine Catholic chapel in Drumalee built of stone in place of
+the mud wall of seventy odd years ago. Saw no old people about and found
+that almost the recollection of Father Peter Smith, the blessed priest
+who wrought miracles, had faded away from the place, also that of his
+friend the loyal Orangeman who always got Orange as a prefix to his
+name.
+
+The police in these midland counties are not so alert and vigilant, like
+people in an enemy's country, as they are in the west. They do not seem
+to have "reasonable suspects" on their minds. The asses of Belturbet,
+although some of them appear dressed in straw harness, and with creels,
+are well fed and sleek and do not bray in a melancholy, gasping manner
+as if they were squealing with hunger as the Leitrim asses do. It rained
+pretty steadily during the time I was in Belturbet, and the principal
+trading to be seen from my window was the sale of heather besoms. A
+woman and a young girl, barefooted and bareheaded, arrived at the corner
+with an ass-load of this merchandise. They were sold at one half-penny
+each. They were neatly made, and the heather of which they were composed
+being in bloom they looked very pretty. How it did rain on these
+dripping creatures! Being shut up by the weather I took an interest in
+the besom merchants and their load, which was such a heavy one that a
+good-natured bystander had to help to lift the load off the ass's back.
+It was a long while before a customer appeared. At length a stout woman,
+with the skirt of her dress over her head, ran across the street to buy
+a broom. She bargained closely, getting the broom and a scrubber for one
+half-penny, but as she was the first purchaser she spat upon the half-
+penny for luck. Then came some more little girl buyers, who inspected
+and turned over the brooms with an important commercial air, with intent
+to get the worth of their half-penny and show to their mothers at home
+that they were fit to be trusted to invest a half-penny wisely. They
+bought and others came and bought until the stock began to diminish
+sensibly.
+
+A little man who had arrived with his load of besoms somewhat later sold
+none. I saw him glance from his load to the stock of mother and
+daughter, fast selling off, and become aware that his stock as compared
+with theirs was rather heathery, and he began to trim off roughnesses
+with his knife. I hope he succeeded in selling.
+
+Drove out to Drumlane, where are the ruins of a large church and abbey
+and round tower. The driver, a Catholic, talked a little, guardedly, of
+the high rents. A broken-down looking man, who opened the iron gates for
+us into the ruins, complained heavily of the rents. He was only a
+laborer himself, the farmer he worked for was paying fifty-five
+shillings an acre for part of his farm and L3 for the rest. The land on
+which I looked was rented at L3. My only wonder is that the lands thus
+rented pay the rent alone without supporting in any manner the tillers
+of the soil. It was all pasture at this particular place. The ruins here
+of the church are very extensive, of the abbey only the fragment of a
+wall is standing. My guides informed me that there was an underground
+passage in old days between the abbey and the church, so that the bishop
+was not seen from the time he left the abbey until he appeared on the
+high altar.
+
+They remarked that a story handed down from father to son as a true
+record of a place should be believed before a written account. They made
+no allowance for the coloring given to a story as it passed through the
+imaginations of successive generations. I assured them that I accepted
+all legends as historical facts to a certain extent. They were made
+happy, and were in a fit state of mind to _insinse_ me into the
+facts of the case about the round tower. It is of great thickness, the
+area enclosed would make a good sized room. The stone work is remarkably
+solid and good, and every stone smoothly fitted into the next with no
+appearance of mortar. It is wonderful to see how the projection of one
+stone is neatly fitted into a cavity made to correspond in its fellow.
+On one stone a bird is cut in relief, another nearly the same in the
+attitude of following is cut on another stone. There is also a
+representation of a coffin. The beautiful stone work goes up a great
+way, and suddenly stops, the remainder of the building being done in a
+much rougher manner.
+
+Seeing that I was of a reasonable turn of mind, they informed me that
+the lower portion of this round tower was built by a woman, but she
+being jeered at and tormented by the men masons, jealous of her work,
+disappeared in the night, leaving the masons to finish it, which they
+did, but not nearly so well, as we could see.
+
+On the way from Drumlane to Ballyconnell the driver began to talk of the
+bitter feeling that was kept up in the country on party subjects. He
+said that religion forbid it, for if we noticed in the Lord's prayer it
+was a prayer to forgive us as we forgave others. He thought Ireland
+could not prosper or have God's blessing until the bitterness of party
+spirit went down.
+
+Found Ballyconnell just such another sleepy little town as Clones and
+Belturbet. Here I had the comfort of meeting a friend who had puzzled a
+little over the land question in a misty sort of way, and was willing to
+give the benefit of his observations and conclusions.
+
+From Clones to Belturbet and on to Ballyconnell, as I have mentioned
+before, I believe, is pretty much the same sort of country, good fields,
+middling and good pastures alternating with stretches of bog and many
+small lakes dotted about here and there. Every appearance of thrifty,
+contented poverty among the people as far as met the eye. They were
+better clad, the little asses shod, and sleek and fat, so different from
+other places. Still, the best of the common people all along here is not
+very good to trans-Atlantic eyes, and the houses one sees as they pass
+along are dreadfully bad.
+
+I spoke of this to my friend in Ballyconnell, who informed me that the
+people were harassed with ever-increasing rent, that as soon as they
+could not meet it they were dealt with without mercy. A man who had
+toiled to create a clearing--put a life's labor into it--was often not
+able to pay the increased rent and then he was put out, while another
+man paid the increased rent on his neighbor's lost labor.
+
+This friend of mine held the opinion that landlords of the old stock
+never did wrong, never were rapacious or cruel; it was the new
+landlords, traders who bought out in the Encumbered Estates Court, who
+had no mercy, and the agents. Here again was brought up the story denied
+before that the agents had a percentage on the rents collected.
+
+One cannot agree with the fact of all landlords of the old stock being
+considerate and kind and all new landlords rapacious; for Lord Leitrim
+was of the old stock, and who would wish to succeed to the inheritance
+of hatred he left behind him, and Lord Ardilaun, a new landlord, is well
+spoken of by all his people. Every one with whom I spoke of him,
+including the parish priest, acknowledged him to be a high-toned,
+grandly benevolent man, who, if he differed from his tenants, differed
+as one on a height of grandeur may misjudge the ability of the poor.
+
+
+
+
+XLVIII.
+
+IN THE COUNTY CAVAN--THE ANNALS OF THE POOR--BURYING THE PAST.
+
+
+As an instance of hardships of which the poor had to complain, my
+informant mentioned the case of one very old man, whose children had
+scattered away over the world, which meant that they had emigrated. He
+held a small place on a property close beside another property managed
+by my informant's brother. This old man had paid his rent for sixty-nine
+years; he and his people before him had lived, toiled and paid rent on
+this little place. He was behind in his rent, for the first time, and
+had not within a certain amount the sum required. He besought the
+intercession of my friend's brother, who, having Scotch caution in his
+veins, did not, though pitying, feel called upon to interfere. The old
+man tendered what money he had at the office and humbly asked that he
+might have time given him to make up the rest. It was refused with
+contempt.
+
+"Sir," faltered the old man, "I have paid my rent every year for sixty-
+nine years. I have lived here under three landlords without reproach. I
+am a very old man. I might get a little indulgence of time."
+
+"All that is nothing to me," said the agent.
+
+"Sir," said the old man, "if my landlord himself were here, or the
+General his father, or my Lord Belmore who sold the land to him, I would
+not be treated in this way after all."
+
+"Get out of this instantly," said the agent, stamping his foot, "How
+dare you give such insolence to me."
+
+"You see," explained my friend, "he was very old, it was not likely that
+any more could be got out of him even if he got time, for he was past
+his labor. Besides there was a man beside him who held a large farm, and
+he wanted this old man's little holding to square off his farm, so the
+old man had to go to the wall, but I was sorry for him."
+
+There is a good deal of this unproductive sorrow scattered over Ireland
+among the comfortable classes. There are a good many also who feel like
+that motherly Christian lady in Clones who said to me, "When they have
+to go into the poor-house at the last, and they know it will come to
+that, why not go in at once?"
+
+I am convinced more and more every day of the widespread need there is
+that some evangelistic effort should be made to bring a practical Gospel
+to bear on the dominant classes in Ireland.
+
+My friend and I walked up to the church to search for some graves in the
+churchyard that lies around it. He drew my attention to the socket where
+a monument had been erected but which was gone, and mentioned the
+circumstances under which it had disappeared. A gentleman of the
+country, an Episcopalian, had fallen in love with and married a Catholic
+lady. The usual bargain had been made, the daughters to follow the
+mother's faith, the sons to go with the father. There was one son who
+was a member of the Episcopalian church. It seemed that the son loved
+and reverenced his Catholic mother, and that she was also loved and
+reverenced by her Catholic coreligionists. When she died she was buried
+in the family burying plot of ground in the Episcopalian churchyard. Her
+son erected there a white marble cross to his mother's memory. At this
+cross, on their way home from mass, sundry old women used to turn in,
+and, kneeling down there, say a prayer. This proceeding, visible from
+the church windows, used to annoy and exasperate the officiating
+clergyman very much. At the time of the disestablishment of the Church a
+committee was being formed to make some arrangements consequent upon
+this event. The Episcopal son of this Catholic mother was named on the
+Committee, and a great opposition was got up to his nomination on
+account of his being only Protestant by half blood. There was no
+objection to him personally, his faith or belief was thought sound,
+except that part of it which was hereditary. My friend considered this
+very wrong, and ranged himself on the side of the gentleman who was the
+cause of the dispute. The dispute waxed so hot that the parties almost
+came to blows in the vestry room.
+
+During the time this war raged some bright genius, on one of the days of
+Orange procession, had a happy thought of putting an orange arch over
+the churchyard gate, in such a manner that the praying women should have
+to pass under it if they entered. I am not quite sure whether the arch
+was destroyed or not; as far as my memory serves I think it was.
+Something happened to it anyway. Something also happened to the
+monumental cross, which was torn down, broken up and strewed round in
+marble fragments. The gentleman prosecuted several Orangemen whom he
+suspected of this outrage. There was not evidence to convict them. An
+increased ill-feeling got up against the gentleman for a prosecution
+that threw a slur on the Orange organization. The Orange society offered
+a reward of L60 for the discovery and conviction of the offenders, but
+nothing came of it. My friend thought it was done by parties unknown to
+bring reproach on the Orange cause. The gentleman of the half-blood had
+not been so much thought of by his fellow church members since this
+transaction.
+
+I spoke to my friend upon the unchristian nature of this party spirit,
+which he agreed with me in lamenting, but excused by telling me outrages
+by the Catholic party which made me shudder. All these outrages were
+confirmed by the ancient woman who kept the key of the church, and who
+stood listening and helping with the story, emphasizing with the key. I
+asked when these outrages had taken place, and was relieved considerably
+to hear that they happened about 1798 and 1641. Asked my friend if the
+other side had not any tales of suffered atrocities to tell? He supposed
+they had, thought it altogether likely. Why then, I asked him, do you
+not bury this past and live like Christians for the future.
+
+I am often asked this question about burying the past, said my friend.
+My answer is, let them bury first and afterwards we will. Let them bury
+their Ribbonism, their Land Leagueism, their Communism and their
+Nihilism (making the motion of digging with his hands as he spoke) and
+after that ask us to bury our Orangeism, our Black Chapter, our Free
+Masonry, and we will do it then.
+
+As we came down the hill from the church, I said to my friend, "You
+acknowledge that there are wrongs connected with land tenure that should
+be set right. You say that you see things of doubtful justice and scant
+mercy take place here, that you see oppression toward the poor of your
+country; why, then, not join with them to have what is wrong redressed,
+fight side by side on the Land Question and leave religious differences
+aside for the time being?" "I would be willing to do this," said my
+friend, "I do not believe in secret societies, although I belong to
+three of them, but a man must go with his party if he means to live
+here. There are many Orangemen who have become what we call 'rotten,'
+about Fermanagh, over one hundred have been expelled for joining the
+Land League."
+
+Party spirit is nourished, and called patriotism; it is fostered and
+called religion, but it is slowly dying out, Ireland is being
+regenerated and taught by suffering. In all suffering there is hope.
+This thought comforted me when I shook hands with my friend and turned
+my back to Ballyconnell and to Belturbet and took the car for Cavan,
+passing through the same scenery of field and bog and miserable houses
+that prevail all over.
+
+The only manufacture of any kind which I noticed from Clones to Cavan, a
+large thriving town bustling with trade, was the making of brick, which
+I saw in several places. These inland towns seem to depend almost
+entirely on the agricultural population around them.
+
+From Cavan down through the County Cavan, is swarming with Land Leaguers
+they say, although I met with none to know them as such. Poor land is in
+many places, a great deal of bog, many small lakes and miserable mud
+wall cabins abounding. In every part of Ireland, and almost at every
+house, you see flocks of ducks and geese; raising them is profitable,
+because they do not require to be fed, but forage for themselves, the
+ducks in the water courses and ponds, while the geese graze, and they
+only get a little extra feed when being prepared for market. Ducks can
+be seen gravely following the spade of a laborer, with heads to one side
+watching for worms. Neither ducks nor geese, nor both together, are as
+numerous as the crows; they seem to be under protection, and they
+increase while population decreases.
+
+As one journeys south the change in the countenance of the people is
+quite remarkable. In Down, Antrim, Donegal, the faces are almost all
+different varieties of the Scottish face--Lowland, Highland, Border or
+Isle--but as you come southward an entirely different type prevails. I
+noticed it first at Omagh. It is the prevailing face in Cavan; large,
+loose features, strong jaws, heavy cheeks and florid complexion,
+combined mostly with a bulky frame. You hear these people tracing back
+their ancestors to English troopers that came over with Cromwell or
+William the Third. They have a decided look of Hengist and Horsa about
+them.
+
+The feeling against the Land League among the Conservative classes in
+the north is comparatively languid to the deeper and more intense
+feeling that prevails southward. The gulf between the two peoples that
+inhabit the country widens. After leaving Cavan we crossed a small point
+of Longford and thence into Westmeath, passing quite close to
+Derryvaragh Lake, and then to Lake Owel after passing Mulingar, getting
+a glimpse of yet another, Westmeath Lake.
+
+After passing Athlone and getting into Roscommon we got a view of that
+widening of the Shannon called Lough Ree, sixteen miles long and in some
+parts three miles wide. A woman on the train told me of that island on
+this lough, Hare island, with Lord Castlemaine's beautiful plantation,
+of the castle he has built there, decorated with all that taste can
+devise, heart can desire or riches buy. A happy man must be my Lord
+Castlemaine. Lough Ree is another silent water, like the waters of the
+west unbroken by the keel of any boat, undarkened by the smoke of any
+steamer, the breeze flying over it fills no sail.
+
+I have mentioned before how completely the County Mayo has gone to
+grass. The same thing is apparent in a lesser degree elsewhere. There is
+not a breadth of tillage sufficient to raise food for the people. Cattle
+have been so high that hay and pasturage were more remunerative, and the
+laborers depend for food on the imported Indian meal. The grassy
+condition of every place strikes one while passing along; but Roscommon
+seems to be given up to meadow and pasture land almost altogether. The
+hay crop seems light in some places. The rain has been so constant that
+saving it has been difficult in some places. I saw some hay looking
+rather black, which is an unbecoming color for hay. Roscommon is a very
+level country as far as I saw of it, and very thinly populated.
+
+The town of Roscommon has a quiet inland look, with a good deal of
+trading done in a subdued manner. There is the extensive ruin of an old
+castle in it; the old gaol is very castle-like also. I drove over to
+Athleague as soon as I arrived, a small squalid village some four Irish
+miles away. The land is so level that one can see far on every side as
+we drive along, and the country is really empty. The people left in the
+little hamlets have one universal complaint, the rent is too high to be
+paid and leave the people anything to live on. It was raised to the
+highest during prosperous years; when the bad years came it became
+impossible.
+
+I enquired at this village of Athleague what had become of all the
+people that used to live here in Roscommon. They were evicted for they
+could not pay their rents. Where are they? Friends in America sent
+passage tickets for many, some, out of the sale of all, made out what
+took them away; some were in the poor house; some dead and gone. The
+land is very empty of inhabitants.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XLIX
+
+AN EMPTY COUNTRY--RAPACIOUS LANDLORDS.
+
+
+From Roscommon I drove to Lanesborough where Longford and Roscommon
+meet at a bridge across the Shannon, and where a large Catholic church
+stands on each side of the river. The bridge at Lanesborough, a swing
+bridge, substantial and elegant, the solid stone piers--all the stone
+work on bridge and wharves is of hewn stone--speak of preparations for a
+great traffic which is not there, like the warehouses of Westport.
+Seeing all facilities for trade and all conveniences for trade prepared,
+and the utter silence over all, makes one think of enchanted places
+where there must come a touch of some kind to break the charm before the
+bustle of life awakes and "leaps forward like a cataract."
+
+One man stood idle and solitary on the wharf at Lanesborough as if he
+were waiting for the sudden termination of this spell-bound still life.
+
+My glimpse of Longford from the neighborhood of Lanesborough showed a
+place of wooded hills and valleys covered with crops, and with this
+glimpse we turned back over the plain of Roscommon. The road lay through
+peat bog for a good part of the way, and the mud-wall cabins were a sad
+sight indeed.
+
+Empty as the country is, eviction is still going on. Many have occurred
+lately, and more are hanging over the people. From Roscommon to Boyle,
+across more than one-half the length of this long county, from Roscommon
+to French Park, the country is so completely emptied of inhabitants that
+one can drive a distance of five miles at once without seeing a human
+habitation except a herd's hut. The country is as empty as if William
+the Conqueror had marched through it.
+
+Several persons called upon me to give me some information on the state
+of things in general. I also received some casual information. One
+gentleman of large experience from his position, a person of great
+intelligence and cultivation, while utterly condemning the Land League,
+admitted that some change in the Land Law was absolutely necessary. He
+instanced one case where a gentleman acquired a property by marriage and
+immediately set about raising the rent. Rent on one little holding was
+raised from L2 to L10 at one jump. In no case was it less than doubled.
+This landlord complains bitterly that the people under the influence of
+the Land League have turned against him. They used to bow and smile, and
+it was, "What you will, sir," and, "As you please." Now they are surly
+and sullen and will not salute him.
+
+The farmer who holds a good-sized farm always wishes to extend its
+borders and is ready and eager to add the poor man's fields to his own.
+Concentration of lands into few hands, reducing small farmers into
+laborers, is the idea that prevails largely.
+
+My Athleague friend, a very interesting old gentleman, after mentioning
+the great depopulation of Roscommon, spoke of good landlords, such as
+Lord Dufresne, Mr. Charles French, the O'Connor Don, Mr. Mapother; but
+he paused before mentioning any oppressive ones. "Would his name
+appear?" No. His name should not appear. "Well, for fear of getting into
+any trouble I will mention no names, but we find that they who purchased
+in the Encumbered Estates Court are the most rapacious landlords."
+
+One gentleman, who was representing to me the discouragement given to
+improvement, mentioned a case where a person of means who held a little
+place for comfort and beauty, but lived by another pursuit than farming,
+sought the agent to know if he could obtain any compensation for
+improvements which he had made, and which had made his place one of the
+most beautiful in Roscommon. He wanted to be sure that he was not
+throwing his money away. When he sought the agent on this subject he
+found him on his car preparing to drive away somewhere. He listened to
+his tenant's question as to compensation for outlay, and then whipped up
+the horse and drove away without answering.
+
+I had a call from an elderly gentleman, before I left Roscommon, who
+gave me his views on the question very clearly. He thought as God had
+ordained some to be rich and others to be poor, any agitation to better
+the condition of the poor was sheer flying in the face of the Almighty.
+Under cover of helping the poor the Land League were plotting to
+dismember the British Empire. There never had been peace in the country
+since the confiscation, and there never would be until the Roman
+Catholic population were removed by emigration and replaced by
+Protestants. The blame of the present disturbed condition of the country
+he laid upon four parties: First, the Government, who administered the
+country in a fitful manner, now petting, now coercing, while they should
+keep the country steadily under coercion, for alternately petting and
+coercing sets parties against one another more than ever. Second,
+landlords and agents, who rented land too high and raised the rent on
+the tenant's own invested improvements. Third, the priests, who could
+repress outrage and reveal crime if they chose to do so. Fourth,
+Catholic tenants who took the law into their own hands instead of
+patiently waiting for redress by law.
+
+According to this gentleman, the only innocent persons in Ireland were
+the Protestant tenantry; so to root out the Catholics and replace them
+by Protestants was the only possible way to have peace in the country.
+Boycotting he referred to especially as a dangerous thing, which
+paralyzed all industry and turned the country into a place governed by
+the worst kind of mob law.
+
+Another gentleman of position and experience said that a strike against
+paying rent led easily into a strike against paying anything at all;
+that society had really become disorganized. Many held back their rents,
+which they were well able to pay--had the money by them. The Land League
+had done a great deal of harm. At the same time this gentleman confirmed
+the Athleague gentleman's statement that rents were raised past the
+possibility of the tenant's paying, that eviction was cruel and
+persistent, the belief being that large grass farms were the only paying
+form of letting land. In fact, he said, he himself had evicted the
+tenants on his property on pain of being evicted himself. He held land,
+but at such a rent that if living by farming alone he would not be able
+to pay it.
+
+He gave some instances of boycotting. One was that travelling in the
+neighboring county of Longford he had occasion to get a smith to look at
+his horse's shoes, and was asked for his Land League ticket. On saying
+he had none, the smith refused to attend to the horse's shoes. Roscommon
+had boycotted a Longford man who had taken willow rods to sell because
+he had not a Land League ticket, and a Longford smith in reprisal would
+not set the shoe on the horse of a Roscommon man unless he had a Land
+League ticket. When the gentleman explained that he had bought five
+hundred of those same rods from that same man the smith attended to the
+horse, and the boycotting was over.
+
+I heard of other cases of boycotting. It is not by any means a new
+device, although it has come so prominently before the public lately.
+
+From Roscommon I crossed country past Clara and Tullamore, across King's
+county into Portarlington on the borders of Queen's county.
+Portarlington is the centre of a beautiful country full of cultivated
+farms as well as shut-up and walled-in gentlemen's seats.
+
+Walking down the principal street, I noticed a large placard fastened to
+a board hanging on a wall; thought it was a proclamation and stopped to
+read it. It was an exposition of the errors of the Catholic Church in
+such large type that he that runs may read it. I have some doubts
+whether this is the best way of convincing people of an opposite belief
+of their errors. I went into the shop thinking I might perhaps buy a
+newspaper. I fear me the mistress of the establishment, a timid, elderly
+woman, imagined me to be a belligerent member of the attacked church
+come to call her to account, for she retreated at a fast run to the
+kitchen from which she called an answer in the negative to my enquiry.
+
+Returning to my abiding place, I asked the hostess if the town contained
+many Catholics. "Oh, dear no," she replied, "there are few Catholics.
+The people are nearly all Protestants." In this neighborhood the
+celebrated John George Adair, of Derryveigh celebrity, has a magnificent
+residence called Belgrove Park. He has the name of being a very wealthy
+man. He is not praised here, but has the reputation of being hard-
+hearted, exacting and merciless. I doubted a little whether it was
+really the same man, as they called him, irreverently enough, Jack
+Adair, but to convince me they immediately began repeating the verses
+with their burden of five hundred thousand curses on cruel John Adair,
+which they could repeat readily with variations.
+
+The railway facilities are very slow and conservative in their motions.
+I could not get on to Limerick the same day, but had to remain over
+night in Portarlington.
+
+At Limerick Junction there was another wait of two hours, and at last we
+steamed into Limerick. It is a large city of tall houses, large churches
+and high monuments. The inhabitants say it was celebrated for its tall
+houses five or six hundred years ago.
+
+
+
+
+L.
+
+THE CITY ON THE SHANNON.
+
+
+The Shannon is a mighty river running here between low green banks. The
+tide comes up to Limerick and rises sometimes to the top of the sea
+wall. A fine flourishing busy town is Limerick with its shipping. I have
+discovered the post-office, found out the magnificent Redemptorist
+Church. Noticing this church and the swarm of other grand churches with
+the same emblems and the five convents as well as other buildings for
+different fraternities, noticing also the queer by-places where
+dissenting places of worship are hidden away, one concludes that they
+are in a Catholic city, and so they are. On Sunday found out a little
+Presbyterian Church hid away behind some houses and joined its handful
+of worshippers.
+
+In the afternoon walked along the streets for some way and found myself
+all at once in what is called the English part of the town, but which
+looked more foreign than any place I have yet seen on my own green isle.
+The houses were tall, and had been grand in King Donagh O'Brien's time,
+I suppose. The streets were very narrow. The last week's wash, that
+looked as if the Shannon was further away than it is, fluttered from the
+broken windows of the fifth story. All the shops were open; there did
+not seem to be any buyers, but if there were, they might get supplied.
+The very old huckster women sat by their baskets of very small and very
+wizened apples, and infinitesimal pears that had forgotten to grow. Two
+women, one in a third-story window and one on the street, were
+exchanging strong compliments. In fact, as our cousins would say, "there
+was no Sunday in that English quarter worth a cent." I made my escape
+with a sick longing for some one to carry a gospel of good tidings of
+great joy in there.
+
+Next morning I found out the English Cathedral, which is at the very
+border, so to speak, of that forgotten place. It stands in pretty
+grounds. The elderly gentleman who has the care of it, and who shows it
+off like a pet child, happened to be there, and took charge of me. He
+was determined I should conscientiously see and hear all about that
+church. This church was built in 1194 by Donagh O'Brien, King of
+Munster. It was not new even then, for King Donagh made his new church
+out of an old palace of his.
+
+I followed that old man while he pointed out the relics of the old and
+the glories of the new, the magnificent painted windows, the velvet of
+the costliest that covered the altar, the carvings of price, the
+cushions and the carpets, and, a few steps away, the fluttering rags,
+the horrible poverty, the hopeless lives of the English quarter. Truly
+the fat and the wool are in one place, and the flock on the dark
+mountains in another. Outside are various stone cupboards, called
+vaults, where highbred dust moulders in state free from any beggarly
+admixture.
+
+That old man wished to delude me up unknown steps to the battlements and
+up to other battlements on the top of the church tower--it was raining
+heavily, and the gray clouds lying on the house tops, you could hardly
+have seen across two streets--to see the view forsooth; then he
+volunteered to set the bells ringing in my honor, but I declined. He
+then told me of the bells--it was new to me; it may not be new to
+others. They were--well--taken without leave from Italy. The Italian
+who cast them pilgrimed over the world in search of them. Sailing up the
+Shannon he heard his long-lost bells, and it killed him, the joy did.
+
+The puritan soldiers destroyed the profusion of statues that decorated
+this church. Noticed one simple monument to one Dan Hayes, an honest man
+and a lover of his country. Near this cathedral is the house where
+Ireton died, tall and smoky, battered and fallen into age, but very
+high. Its broken windows showed several poverty-stricken faces looking
+down on the cathedral grounds, which, of course, are kept locked. King
+John's castle, very strong, very tall, very grim, seems mostly composed
+of three great towers, but there are really seven. Inside the walls is a
+barrack that could lodge 400 men. Limerick is full of old memorials of
+present magnificence and of past and present need. The inhabitants
+proudly tell you that it never was conquered, not considering
+capitulation conquest. The city raised the first monument to O'Connell.
+Of course I saw it, and thought it a good likeness. There is a square of
+grass and trees near it, where is a monument of Spring Rice, he who,
+when O'Connell was sick once, a political sickness, was said to be in
+despair:
+
+  "Poor Spring Rice, with his phiz all gloom,
+   Kept noiselessly creeping about the room;
+   His innocent nose in anguish blowing,
+   Murmuring forth, 'He's going, going.'"
+
+I did not hear the sweet bells that charmed the life out of the poor
+wandering Italian, still I think I have perhaps told enough about the
+ancient city of Limerick on the Shannon.
+
+From Limerick up through Clare, the railway passes along by the river
+Fergus, a big tributary of the Shannon. A Clare man informed me that
+Clare returned Dan O'Connell to Parliament. He sank his voice into an
+emphatic whisper to inform us that Dan was the first Catholic who ever
+got into Parliament.
+
+I have been taken for this one and that one since I came to Ireland, and
+have been amused or annoyed, as the case may be, but I am totally at a
+loss to know whom I resembled or was taken for in the County Clare. A
+decent-looking countrywoman shook hands with me, telling me she had seen
+me in some part of Clare a month ago, and I had never set foot into the
+county until to-day. "You remember me, my lady, I saw you when you
+stopped at ----" some whispered name with an O to it. The woman's face
+was strangely familiar, but I was on entirely new ground.
+
+There is enchantment in this western country. I was completely
+bewildered when a frieze-coated farmer told me, "That was a grand speech
+you made at Tuam, and true every word of it." It was a little confusing,
+seeing that I have never been in Tuam, or very near it at all. This old
+gentleman enquired coaxingly if I were going to speak at Ennis, and
+assured me of a grand welcome to be got up in a hurry. Then he and the
+farmer's wife exchanged thoughts--that "I did not want anybody to know I
+was in it"--in aggravating whispers as I looked steadily out of the
+windows to assure myself that I was I. My friend in frieze then began to
+draw my attention to certain landmarks, the ruins of this abbey and that
+castle, and the other graveyard as points of interest with which I was
+supposed to be familiar.
+
+Truly this part of Clare seemed to have any amount of square castles in
+ruined grandeur scattered along the line of rail. We stopped at a
+station and saw Ennis lying below us, and O'Connell's statue rising up
+between us and the sky. My two friends parted from me here to my immense
+relief. I felt as if I were obtaining admiration on false pretences. The
+woman took my hand, and, with a long fond look, began to bless me in
+English, but her feelings compelled her to slide off into fervent Irish.
+The frieze-coated gentleman stood, hat in hand, and bowed and bowed, and
+"his life was at my service, and if I wished to pass unnoticed sure he
+could whisht, and good-by and God bless you." and away they went. For
+whom did they take me?
+
+Clare is pretty stony. Again I saw fields from which stones had been
+gathered to form fences like ramparts. Again I saw fields crusted with
+stone like the fields of Cong, with the same waterworn appearance, but
+not so extensive. The little, pretty station of Cusheen seemed an oasis
+in a stony wilderness.
+
+Past many a little field hemmed in with stony barricades, past many an
+ancient ruin, sitting in desolation, into Athenry, the ancient Ath-an-
+righ, the fortress of kings. It was pouring rain, it often is pouring
+rain. I took shelter in the hotel whose steps rise from the railway
+station. There, in a quaint little corner room with a broad strip of
+window, I settled myself to write with the light of a poor candle, and
+the rain fell outside. Athenry bristles with ruins.
+
+King John has another castle here all in ruins. There is a part of a
+wall here and there, and the arch of a gate which has been patched up
+and has some fearful hovels leaning up against it. It has the ruins of
+an abbey and of a priory. The names of Clanricarde and De Birmingham
+linger among these ruins; the modern cabins, without window pane or any
+chimney at all, but a hole in the roof, are mixed up with the ruins
+also.
+
+The well-fed maid at the hotel informed me that they were very poor.
+There is no work and no tillage, the land being in grass for sheep. "I
+do not believe any of them know what a full meal means. No one knows how
+they manage to live, the creatures," said the maid, comfortably. So the
+night and the morning passed at Athenry, and we passed on to the village
+of Oranmore.
+
+
+
+
+LI.
+
+GALWAY AND THE MEN OF GALWAY.
+
+
+From Athenry and its ruins went to Oranmore and its ruins. The poverty
+of Athenry deepens into still greater poverty in Oranmore. The country
+is under grass, hay is the staple crop, so there being little tillage,
+little labor is required. They depend on chance employment to procure
+the foreign meal on which they live. Some depend for help to a great
+extent on the friends in America.
+
+There is a new pier being built here, for an arm of the sea runs up to
+Oranmore. They told me that this pier was being built by the Canadian
+money. It will be a harbor of refuge for fishing craft and better days
+of work and food may yet dawn upon the West.
+
+Behind the pier are the ruins of a large castle which belonged to the
+Blakes, one of the Galway tribes. It was inhabited by the last Blake who
+held any of the broad acres of his ancestors within the memory of the
+old people. I stood in the roofless upper room which had been the
+dancing saloon, penetrated into galleries built for defence lit only by
+loop holes, went down the little dark stair into the dungeon, tried to
+peer into the underground passage that connected with the seashore,
+ascended to the battlements and looked over the lonely land and explored
+multitudes of small rooms reached by many different flights of stone
+steps.
+
+These people are largely of the Norman blood. Oh, for the time when
+peace and plenty, law and order shall reign here; when the peasant shall
+not consider law as an oppressor to be defied or evaded, an engine of
+oppression in the hands of the rich, but an impartial and inflexible
+protector of the rights of rich and poor alike!
+
+A young priest told me here that the clergy about this place were
+opposed to the teachings of the Land League--did not countenance it
+among their people. A Catholic gentleman in Roscommon told me the same
+concerning the bishop and clergy of his own locality.
+
+The tillage about Galway is careful and good, what there is of it. I saw
+great fields of wheat that had been cleared of stones, by generations of
+labor I should say. I had this fact brought to my mind by some peasants
+in the neighborhood of Athenry, in this way: "A man works and his family
+works on a bit of ground fencing it, improving it, gathering off the
+stones; as he improves his rent is raised; he clings to the little home;
+he gets evicted and disappears into the grave or the workhouse, and
+another takes the land at the higher rent; improves from that point; has
+the rent raised, till he too falls behind and is evicted; and so it goes
+on till the lands are fit for meadowing and grass, and the holdings are
+run together and the homes blotted out." Of course I do not give the
+man's words exactly, but I give his thoughts exactly.
+
+Galway was something of a disappointment to me at first, it had not such
+a foreign look as I expected. It is a very busy town, has every
+appearance of being a thriving town, every one you meet walks with
+purpose as of one who has business to attend to. It is refreshing to see
+this after looking at the hopeless faces and lounging gait of the people
+of many places in the west. Wherever the tall chimneys rise the people
+have a quick step and an all-alive look.
+
+I wandered about Galway, and to my great delight had a guide to point
+out what was most worth looking at. Of course I heard of the bravery of
+the thirteen tribes of Galway, who snapped up Galway from the
+O'Flaherties and assimilated themselves to the natives as more Irish
+than themselves. After walking about a little I did notice the arched
+gateways and the highly ornamented entrance doors which they concealed.
+
+The first place of interest pointed out to me was Lynch castle. From one
+of the windows of this castle Warder Lynch, in 1493, hung his own son.
+It is said from this act the name Lynch Law arose. The Lynch family,
+originally Lintz, came from Lintz in Austria.
+
+This mayor or Warder Lynch was a wealthy merchant trading with Spain. He
+trusted his son to go thither and purchase a cargo of wine. The young
+man fell into dissipation, and spent the money, buying the cargo on
+credit. The nephew of the Spanish merchant accompanied the ship to
+obtain the money, and arrange for further business. The devil tempted
+the young Lynch to hide his folly by committing crime. Near the Galway
+coast the young Spaniard was thrown overboard. All the friends of the
+family and his father received the young merchant after his successful
+voyage with great joy. The father consented to his son's marriage with
+his early love, the daughter of a neighbor, who gladly consented to
+accept the successful young merchant for his son-in-law. All went merry
+as a marriage bell. Just before the marriage a confessor was sent for to
+a sick seaman, who revealed young Lynch's crime. The Warder of Galway
+stood at the bed of this dying man, and heard of the villany of his
+beloved son. Young Lynch was arrested, tried, found guilty, and
+sentenced. The mother of young Lynch, having exhausted all efforts to
+obtain mercy for her son, flew in distraction to the Blake tribe--she
+was a Blake--and raised the whole clan for a rescue. When the hour of
+execution dawned, the castle was surrounded by the armed clan of the
+Blakes, demanding that the prisoner be spared for the honor of the
+family. The Warder addressed the crowd, entreating them to submit to the
+majesty of the law, but in vain. He led his son--who, when he had borne
+the shame, and came to feel the guilt of his deeds, had no desire to
+live--up the winding stair in the building to that very arched window
+that overlooks the street, and there, to that iron staple that is fixed
+in the wall, he hung him with his own hands, after embracing him, in
+sight of all the people. The father expected to die by the hands of the
+angry crowd below, but they, awed, went home at a dead march. The mother
+died of the shock, and the sternly just old man lived on. I looked at
+his house in Lombard street. Over the entrance is a skull and cross
+bones in relief on black marble, with this motto, which I copied,
+
+  "REMEMBER DEATH
+     Vanitie of vanities, and all is but vanitie."
+
+There is a fine museum in Queen's College, Galway, which I did not see.
+Of course there are many things I did not see, although my eyes were on
+hard duty while there. I did see specimens of that most beautiful marble
+of Connemara. It is worked up into ornaments, in some cases mounted with
+silver. As soon as any one enquires for it they are known to be from
+America. A book shaped specimen that I coveted was priced at twelve and
+sixpence. It is there yet for me. It is of every shade and tint of
+green, and is really very lovely. I saw many specimens of it
+manufactured into harps stringed and set in silver, with a silver
+scroll, and the name of Davitt or Parnell on them in green enamel. There
+were brooches and scarf pins of this kind. I did not notice the name of
+the great Liberator among these ornaments.
+
+The Claddagh was a great disappointment to me. I heard that it was not
+safe to venture into it alone. I got up early and had sunshine with me
+when I strolled through the Claddagh. I saw no extreme poverty there.
+Most of the houses were neatly whitewashed; all were superior to the
+huts among the ruins at Athenry. The people were very busy, very
+comfortably clothed, and, in a way, well-to-do looking. Some of the
+houses were small and windowless, something the shape of a beehive, but
+not at all forlornly squalid. They make celebrated fleecy flannel here
+in Claddagh. They make and mend nets. They fish. I saw some swarthy men
+of foreign look, in seamen's clothes, standing about. You will see
+beauty here of the swarthy type, accompanied by flashing black eyes and
+blue black hair, but I saw lasses with lint white locks also in the
+Claddagh. The testimony of all here is that the Claddagh people are a
+quiet, industrious, temperate and honest race of people. I am inclined
+to believe that myself. It is a pretty large district and I wandered
+through it without hearing one loud or one profane word. I was agreeably
+disappointed in the Claddagh. Claddagh has a church and large school of
+its own.
+
+They told me that the Galway coast has the same flowers as the coast of
+Spain. I can testify that flowers abound in little front gardens, and
+window panes, and in boxes on every window ledge. I did not go to see
+the iodine works, where this substance is manufactured from sea weed. I
+saw people burning kelp--and smelled them too--on the Larne and
+Carnlough coast and in Mayo. They burn the dried sea weed in long narrow
+places built of stone. They are not kilns, but are more like them than
+anything else I know of. You see stacks and ropes of the sea weed put up
+to dry. Kelp burning is not a fragrant occupation, and its manufacture
+is not specially attractive.
+
+I think Galway is a very prosperous thriving town. I went to the bathing
+place of Salt Hill, a long suburb of pretty cottages, mostly to be let
+furnished to sea bathers. I should have gone on to Cushla Bay and to the
+islands of Arran, but I did not. I looked round me and returned to
+Galway.
+
+There is difference perceptible to me, but hardly describable between
+the Galway men and the rest of the West. The expression of face among
+the Donegal peasantry is a patience that waits. The Mayo men seem
+dispirited as the Leitrim men also do, but are capable of flashing up
+into desperation. The Galway men seem never to have been tamed. The
+ferocious O'Flaherties, the fierce tribes of Galway, the dark Spanish
+blood, have all left their marks on and bequeathed their spirit to the
+men of Galway. I met one or two who, like some of the Puritans, believed
+that killing was not murder, who urged that if the law would not deter
+great men from wrong-doing it should not protect them.
+
+When trade revives and prosperity dawns upon the West the fierce blood,
+like the Norman blood elsewhere, will go out in enterprise and spend
+itself in improvements.
+
+Land was pointed out to me in Galway for which L4 an acre was paid by
+village people to plant potatoes in. This is called conacre. In going
+through Galway City, even in the suburbs, I did not see great appealing
+poverty such as I saw elsewhere. There was the bustle of work and the
+independence of work everywhere, but in the country, there seems poverty
+mixed with the fierce impatience of seeing no better way to mend
+matters. I heard of evictions having taken place here and there, but saw
+none.
+
+
+
+
+LII.
+
+THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
+
+
+There is a good deal of disturbance about Limerick, according to the
+papers. A traveller would never discover it. It does not appear on the
+surface. I have been a little here and there in the environs of
+Limerick, and have seen no sign of any mob or any disturbance. Police go
+out unexpectedly to do eviction service and it is only known when the
+report comes in the papers.
+
+I did not hear in Limerick town or county, in any place where I happened
+to be, of any landlord who had got renown for any special hardness.
+There was a person boycotted quite near to the city who was getting help
+from neighboring landowners to gather in his crops. What his offence was
+I did not learn.
+
+In Limerick I met with an old and very dear friend who gave me a few
+facts about boycotting as seen in personal experience. An outlying farm
+was taken by my friend from which a widow lady had been evicted before
+the present agitation commenced. A premium of L100 was paid for
+possession. My friends had congratulated themselves on this transaction
+having occurred before the organization of the Land League; but one
+night an armed and masked party took the widow lady and reinstated her
+in her place. My friends were startled a little by a visit from this
+party, who informed them that they were returning from reinstating the
+lady in her place. Had they any objection? No, they had no objection.
+Would they disturb her in possession? No, they would not disturb her in
+possession. If they had only the L100 which they had invested they were
+quite willing to surrender the farm. Three cheers were given for my
+friends, three cheers for the widow lady, a gun was fired off, there was
+a wild cheer for Rory of the Hills, and they disappeared. The widow lady
+after some time quietly left the place of her own accord, and everything
+was as it had been before. They, the armed party, found out that they
+were not doing the lady a kindness by reinstating her, and so the matter
+ended.
+
+Limerick, though an old city, is not a very large one. Going down the
+principal street--George's street--you can look down any of the cross
+streets beyond the masts on Shannon and see on the other side of the
+river oats, waving yellow and in stocks, up the slope. Standing on the
+Wellesley Bridge, where young Fitzgibbon in bronze stands on a granite
+pedestal, perpetually endeavoring to draw his sword--which he succeeded
+in drawing to some purpose at Alma and Inkerman, if we are to credit the
+pedestal, which we do--you can look down the Shannon, over the boats and
+among the steamboat chimneys and the ships' masts, and see the green
+banks of the Shannon, broad and wide, with cattle standing ankle deep in
+the rich pasture. You can see them as they extend far away, widening as
+they go, till the horizon shuts out any farther view. The constant rain
+of these two last months, I am afraid, will damage the ripening crop. It
+is near the close of August and there is hay yet uncut, there is hay
+lying out in every form of bleached windrow, or lap, or spread, under
+the rain. Some of it looks quite spoiled.
+
+No one, I suppose, leaves Limerick without gazing at and perhaps wishing
+for some of the beautiful specimens of Limerick lace that are displayed
+in the shop-windows.
+
+From Limerick to Killarney in the rain through a country gradually
+growing poorer. At the junction there was a detention which enabled me
+to walk about a little. There was a detachment of police that filled a
+couple of car passing on their way to eviction in one direction; a large
+detachment returning from eviction got out of the cars here. Eviction in
+this part of Ireland is feverishly active, and on every hand you hear of
+Mr. Clifford Lloyd. A person with whom I had some conversation told me I
+could have no idea of the state of the country without penetrating
+through it away from the line of rail. Of course this is so.
+
+As we neared Killarney the waters were out over the low lying lands and
+the hay looked pitiful. In a pelting rain we steamed into Killarney,
+passed through the army of cabmen and their allies and were whirled away
+to Lakeview House on the banks of the lower Killarney lake, a pretty
+place standing in its own grounds. Killarney is a nice little town with
+some astonishing buildings. I have heard it styled as a dirty town; it
+struck me as both clean and rather stylish in its general appearance. It
+seems to depend almost entirely on tourists. Unlike Limerick, unlike
+Galway, but very like other western towns the number of people standing
+idly at the corners, or leaning against a tree to shelter from the rain,
+strikes a stranger painfully. The lounging gait and alert eyes mark
+people who have no settled industry, but are watching their chance.
+
+We were allured to Lakeview Hotel by a printed card of terms and found
+it delightfully situated. Did not intend to linger here any time, did
+not seem to care much for the lakes now when I had got to see them. It
+was a damp evening, the mountains, that loom up on every hand, were
+wrapped in their gray cloaks, the lake whipped up by the squally winds
+had risen in swells and everything looked dismal. I shall see some one
+convenient sight and look round me and leave in the morning, I said.
+
+The only available sight to be seen that night was Torc Cascade--well, I
+will be content with that. I must take a car; bargained for that, and
+drove through the walled-up country. Every place here is walled up,
+enclosed, fenced in. I noticed some cottages that were pictures of
+rustic beauty, others that were dirty hovels. The pretty cottages were
+occupied by laborers on the estates that border on the lake. Passed a
+handsome, little Episcopalian church in a sheltered place; near it were
+two monumental crosses of the ancient Irish pattern, erected by the
+tenants to the memory of Mr. Herbert, who was their landlord and who is
+spoken of by the people as one who deserved that they should devote some
+of their scant earnings to raise a cross to his memory.
+
+In due time we arrived at a little door in the wall, where a man stood
+in Mr. Herbert's interest, who gave a small ticket for sixpence,
+unlocked the little arched door and admitted the stranger into this
+temple of nature and art. A board hung on a tree was the first object,
+warning visitors not to pluck ferns or flowers, the man at the gate
+having notice to deprive marauding visitors of anything so gathered.
+There is a winding gravel walk leading up the height almost alongside of
+the brawling stream that leaps from rock to rock. I did not see any
+flowers at all, but the common heather bell in two varieties and the
+large coarse fern so common in our Canadian woods. There are many
+cascades unnamed and unnoticed in our Canadian forests as handsome as
+Torc Cascade. When you get up a good way you come to a black fence that
+bars the way. You are above the tall firs, and the solemn Torc Mountain
+rises far above you. I would have been lost in admiration had I never
+seen the upper Ottawa or the River aux Lievres. Feeling no inclination
+to commit petty larceny on the ferns, I descended slowly and returned.
+
+The ruined abbey of Muckross is another of the sights of Killarney.
+Every visitor pays a shilling to Mr. Herbert for permission to enter
+here. I did not go to see it, but some of the party at the hotel did.
+They described the cloisters as being in a good state of preservation--
+cloisters are a kind of arched piazza running round a court yard, in
+this case having in its centre a magnificent yew tree. These ruins are
+taken great care of, therefore parts of the abbey are in a pretty good
+state of preservation. They tell of a certain man named John Drake, who
+took possession of the abbey kitchen about one hundred years ago, lived
+there as a hermit for about eleven years in the odor of sanctity.
+
+There was quite a party going through the gap of Dunloe, which reduced
+the price of the trip to very little, comparatively speaking, and I was
+persuaded to join it. Every available spot about here has a lordly
+tower, a lady's bower, an old ruin or a new castle. The Workhouse is
+fine enough and extensive enough for a castle, and the Lunatic Asylum
+might be a palace for a crowned head. There are the ruins of Aghadon
+Castle on one ridge and the shrunk remains of a round tower. A brother
+of the great O'Connell lives here in a white house bearing the same name
+as the hotel, Lakeview House. We look with some interest at Dunloe
+Castle. once the residence of O'Sullivan Mor, and listen to the car-man
+who tells us of the glories of the three great families that owned
+Kerry, O'Sullivan Mor, O'Sullivan Bear and great O'Donoghoe.
+
+Of course we hear legend after legend of the threadbare tales of the
+Lakes. We heard much of the cave of Dunloe which has many records, in
+the Ogham character, of Ireland in the days of the Druids. All this time
+we were driving along a road with bare mountains, and tree-covered
+mountains rising on every hand. It reminded me in some places of the
+long glen in Leitrim, in others of Canadian scenes among the mountains.
+We began to be beset by mounted men on scrubby ponies. They gathered
+round us, riding along as our escort, behind and before and alongside
+urging on us the necessity of a pony to cross the road through the gap.
+Their pertinacity was something wonderful.
+
+The carman stopped at a miserable cabin said to have been the residence
+of the Kate Kearney of Lady Morgan's song. That heroine's modern
+representative expects everyone to take a dose of goat's milk in poteen
+from her, and leave some gratuity in return. The whole population turned
+out to beg under some pretext or another. One very handsome girl,
+bareheaded and barefooted, and got up light and airy as to costume,
+begged unblushingly without any excuse. She gathered up her light
+drapery with one hand, and kept up with the horse, skelping along
+through mud and mire as if she liked it. I noticed that she was set on
+by her parents who were the occupiers of a little farm.
+
+Suddenly our car stopped at a house where all sorts of lake curiosities
+were exposed for sale. From this point it was four miles, Irish miles,
+through the gap to the lake to the point where we took the boat. This
+was one circumstance of which we were not aware when we started; it was
+therefore a surprize. I am sorry to say that this gap was a
+disappointment to me. It was a difficult path among bare mountains, but
+nothing startling or uncommon.
+
+What was uncommon was the relays of indefatigable women that lay in wait
+for us at every turn. Goats' milk and poteen, photographs, knitted
+socks, carved knick-nacks in bog oak; everything is offered for sale;
+denial will not be taken. You pass one detachment to come upon another
+lurking in ambush at a corner. There are men with small cannons who will
+wake the echoes for a consideration; there are men with key bugles who
+will wake the echoes more musically for a consideration; there is the
+blind fiddler of the gap who fiddles away in hopes of intercepting some
+stray pennies from the shower. One impudent woman followed us for quite
+a way to sell us her photograph, as the photograph of Eily O'Connor,
+murdered here by her lover many years ago--murdered not at the gap but
+in the lake. There was a large party of us and these followers, horse,
+foot and artillery, I may say were a persistent nuisance all the way.
+The ponies, crowds of them, followed us to the entrance of the Gap,
+where they disappeared, but the women and girls never faltered for the
+five miles. The reiterated and re-reiterated offer of goat's milk and
+poteen became exasperating; the bodyguard of these pertinacious women
+that could not be shaken off was most annoying. The tourists are to the
+inhabitants of Killarney what a wreck used to be to the coast people of
+Cornwall, a God-send.
+
+One does feel inclined to lose all patience as they run the gauntlet
+here, and then one looks around at the miserable cabins built of loose
+stones, at the thatch held on by ropes weighted with stones, the same as
+are to be seen in Achil Island, among the Donegal hills, or the long
+glens of Leitrim, notices the patches of pale, sickly, stunted oats, the
+little corners of pinched potatoes--a girl passed us with a tin dish of
+potatoes for the dinner, they were little bigger than marbles--the
+little rickles of turf that the constant rain is spoiling, and one sees
+that as there is really no industry in the place, of loom or factory,
+that want and encouragement have combined to make them come down like
+the wolf on the fold to the attack of tourists. It spoiled the view, it
+destroyed any pleasure the scenery might have afforded, and yet under
+the circumstances it was natural enough on their part. "We depend on the
+tourists, this is our harvest," the carmen explained to us. From the
+hotel keeper to the beggar all depend on the tourist season.
+
+After all it was something to have passed through between the
+Macgillicuddy's Reeks and the purple mountain; something to see water
+like spun silver flinging itself from the mountain top in leaps to the
+valley below, to struggle up and up to the highest point of the gap and
+look back at the serpentine road winding in and out beside small still
+lakes through the valley far below. Of course we look into the Black
+Lough where St. Patrick imprisoned the last snake. Of course we had
+pointed out to us the top of Mangerton, and were told of the devil's
+punch bowl up there. Down through the Black Valley we came to the point
+where the boats waited for us, leaving the black rocks, the bare
+mountains, the poor little patches of tillage, the miserable huts and
+the multitudinous vendors of goat's milk and poteen behind. To our
+surprise the way to the boats was barred by a gate, and at the gate
+stood a man of Mr. Herbert's to receive a shilling for each passenger
+before they could pass to the boats. "He makes a good thing out of it,"
+remarked the boatmen. I do not know how many more fees are to be paid
+for a look about the lakes of Killarney, but this gate, Torc Cascade and
+Muckross Abbey cost each tourist two shillings and sixpence to look at
+them.
+
+The upper lake is beautiful, fenced around by mountains of every size
+and variety of appearance. Of course they are the same mountains you
+have been seeing all day, but seen from a different standpoint. The
+Eagle's Nest towers up like an attenuated pyramid, partly clothed with
+trees, and is grand enough and high enough for the eagles to build on
+its summit, which they do. Here were men stationed to wake the echoes
+with the bugle. As our boat swept round, recognizing that we had not
+employed them, they ceased the strain until we passed, but the echoes
+followed us and insisted on being heard.
+
+There are many, many spots on the Upper Ottawa as fair and as romantic
+as the Lakes of Killarney, and they are very lovely. The trees on the
+islands have a variety that do not grow in our Canada, principally the
+glossy-leaved arbutus. From the upper lake we slid down a baby rapid
+under an old bridge--built by the Danes of course, the arch formed as
+the arches of the castles in the west--into the middle lake.
+
+The day had been one of dim showers, but in the middle lake the sun
+streamed out and touched the peak of the purple mountain and all the
+mountain sides and woody islands with splendor, that streamed down in
+golden shafts along the rain that was falling on some, and chased for a
+moment the shadows that lay on others. We slid down a fainter rapid
+under another bridge into the last and largest lake. On every lake there
+are buildings of glory and beauty to be seen nestling on the banks among
+the trees, or towering on the heights, owned by the wealthy and titled
+people that own the land round the lakes. A cottage built for Her
+Majesty was pointed out to us, and we heard of a royal deer hunt held
+here. We heard rapturous accounts of stags hunted to the verge of death,
+and saved alive to repeat the ennobling sport. And we censure without
+measure the Spanish bull fight where the animals are killed once! How
+many deaths do these timid deer suffer? I am afraid we are not as noble
+and merciful a people as we think we are.
+
+There are sights to be seen and tales to be heard about these lakes of
+loveliness that would occupy weeks, but a glimpse and away must suffice
+for some, and our party all left Killarney on the next morning. I must
+say that the wealth and the poverty, the unblushing begging, the want of
+any remunerative industry, the idle listless people about the corners,
+made Killarney a sad place to me.
+
+
+
+
+LIII.
+
+CORK AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.
+
+
+After returning from the lakes the rain came down in such torrents as
+made us feel very thankful to be indoors again. We heard it raining all
+through the night as if the days of Noah were returned once more. Every
+one became anxious about the harvest in consequence of this steady rain.
+The bishop has recommended prayer in all the Catholic churches for
+seasonable weather to save the harvest. Murmurs of the appearance of
+rot in the potatoes reach me frequently. I have noticed disease in the
+potatoes appearing on the dinner table, a kind of dry rot, only to be
+noticed after cutting the potato.
+
+From Killarney to Cahirciveen is forty-five miles; beyond that is the
+island of Valentia. There are many wild views to be seen on this island,
+the property of the Knight of Kerry. The traveller here can notice how
+the Atlantic is wearing away the Kerry coast.
+
+The first part of this drive of forty-five miles is through a poor,
+poverty-stricken country, with such cabins of mud and misery as are an
+amusement to the tourist and a pain and a shame to the Irish lover of
+his country. There is nothing about these habitations to hint that any
+idea of comfort had ever penetrated here. For the reason of pelting rain
+and driving winds I was forced to give up my intention of going across
+by car to Kenmare, and from thence to Skibbereen, and took the train for
+Cork. The land seems to grow better the nearer we come to Cork.
+
+Arrived at Cork, the first object which attracted my attention was the
+monument to Father Mathew. The temperance cause to which he dedicated
+his life sadly needs another champion. Will another Father Mathew arise?
+
+As soon after my arrival in Cork as I was comfortably settled, I sallied
+out to discover the river Lee with an insane notion that I would hear
+"the bells of Shandon that sound so grand on" its pleasant waters. I
+discovered the river with tree-shaded, secluded dwellings on one bank
+and a wide green pasture on another. There was a bridge at the place
+where I first came in sight of the river, and a great crowd, so eager as
+to be silent, gazing up the stream. Thinking it was a boat race that
+drew their attention, I crossed the bridge to gain the green pasture at
+the other side. The pasture was reached by a little arched door through
+a boundary wall, where a policeman kept guard. There was a great crowd
+around this little door. There had been an accident, a boat had upset
+and all in it had been lost; they were searching for the bodies. I asked
+for admittance and the policeman unlocked the door and allowed me to
+pass. Followed the path along the water side, and came to the crowd
+round the four bodies laid upon the wet meadow grass. A father, so
+quiet, partially gray, trim and respectable looking, a young lad in blue
+boating costume, a young girl in black, farther on another in whom they
+thought there were signs of life, and about her two doctors were
+working, applying a galvanic battery. The mother had been restored and
+was conveyed into one of the houses.
+
+I never saw any attempts to recover a drowned person before. I wondered
+that they left the body lying on the damp earth in wet clothing. They
+told me that it might be fatal to move her before they succeeded in
+bringing her back to life. They tried a long time in vain, then they
+laid the four bodies all in a row for the coroner. The damp grass, the
+trampling and sympathetic crowd, the four bodies in their wet garments
+laid on the bank, will always rise in my memory along with my first
+sight of the river Lee.
+
+Cork seems a rich city, full of business, bustle on all the wharves,
+buying and selling on all the streets. The buildings are very grand.
+Alongside the river is a long ridge rising up to a tree-crowned summit.
+On that hillside is tier upon tier of grand houses, grand churches, fine
+convents and public buildings of one kind and another. You come upon
+fine churches through the town in corners where you do not expect them.
+
+The church of churches in Cork is the Protestant Cathedral, of St. Finn
+Barre--whoever he was. This church sits high up on a rocky foundation,
+its pointed spires of exquisite stone-work pierce the sky. It is not
+finished, scaffoldings are there, and skilled chisels and cunning
+hammers have been knapping and polishing there for many a day, and are
+likely to continue hammering and chiselling for many a day more. Inside,
+it is marble of Cork, marble of Connemara, marble of Italy, polished to
+the brightest. The gates which admit from one ecclesiastical division to
+another are wrought in flowers that blaze in gold. Before the altar,
+parables of our Lord are wrought in mosaic on the floor. On the wall the
+different noble families who belong here, or have money invested here,
+have their shields containing their coats of arms on the wall. Into this
+grand church have been wrought the religious ideas of the church people
+for years, at the cost of L100,000, and there is an immense golden angel
+on the point of a gable calling with two trumpets for L25,000 more to
+finish it.
+
+None but a rich city could afford the splendid buildings that are in
+Cork. The evening on which I arrived in Cork was signalized not only by
+the boat accident, but by a grand wedding, the wedding of a Sir George
+Colthurst in the splendid cathedral church just mentioned, and there was
+any amount of fashion, and high birth and young beauty gathered there.
+The bride was beautiful, the bride was "tall," and not yet, they say,
+out of her teens. She was dressed in white satin and silver cloth, Irish
+lace and orange blossoms, and wore no jewels. None but invited eyes were
+allowed to look at the grand ceremony which made the fair bride and the
+lord of Blarney castle one. Some tenants of the bridegroom got up a
+bonfire, had some barrels of beer given them to rejoice withal, and were
+dancing to the music produced by six fiddlers, when they were surrounded
+by a small army of disguised people, fired into, beaten and dispersed.
+The first accounts put the number of wounded at twenty, to-day they are
+reduced to five--perhaps that is the proportion of exaggeration in
+newspaper accounts of outrage generally. The newly-made bride and
+bridegroom went to see the wounded, leaving cordials and money at every
+house.
+
+One thing is observable in Cork, the determination to make an effort to
+restore native industry from its present languishing condition. Passing
+along the streets I notice clerks in the windows affixing labels on
+goods with the words, "Irish Manufactures," "Cork made goods," "Blarney
+tweeds," "Irish blankets," "Cork made furniture." There have been
+meetings held on the subject since I came here. No city in the world
+could appear to be more quiet and law-abiding than Cork to all
+appearance.
+
+As one instance of the exaggeration of reports concerning outrages, I
+see the disturbance in Cork that took place at the rejoicings about Sir
+George Colthurst's marriage advertised with the heading 20 men shot. The
+local report says five injured, one shot, but not fatally.
+
+Went down the river Lee to Queenstown. It did not rain except a few
+drops during the whole time. The sun shone, the clouds, some of them
+were billowy and white, and massed themselves on a deep, blue sky. The
+little steamer was crowded fore and aft with holiday passengers, and a
+large quantity of small babies. The river Lee, from Cork to Queenstown,
+wears a green color, as if it were akin to the ocean. Flocks of sea
+gulls flying about, or perching on the ooze where the tide is out, make
+one think of the sea, but the green banks of the river are there to
+testify against it.
+
+We expected to find that the scenery from Cork to Queenstown was
+beautiful, and so it is. There is no use in trying to praise it, for all
+praise seems flat compared with the reality. There are glorious, steep
+slopes leading up to fair, round hills, waving with golden grain, or
+green with aftermath, checked off into fields by gay, green hedges or
+files of stately trees. On the slope, half way up the slope, snuggling
+down at the foot of the slope, are residences of every degree of beauty.
+Houses, square and solid, with wide porticos; houses rising into many
+gabled peaks; houses that have swollen into all sorts of bay windows
+running up to the roof, or stopping with the first story. Houses that
+fling themselves up into the sky in towers and turrets, and assert
+themselves to be, indeed, castles.
+
+Queenstown comes at last, a town hung up on a steep hillside, and on the
+very brow of the hill is an immense cathedral, unfinished like St. Finn
+Barre's, of Cork. In these cathedrals two forms of religious belief are
+slowly and expensively trying to express themselves in stone, chiselled
+and cut into a thousand forms of beauty, in marbles, polished and
+carved, in painted windows, in gildings and draperies of the costliest.
+Looking at these costly fanes erected to be a local spot where Jehovah's
+presence shall dwell, one can scarcely believe that He will dwell in the
+heart of the poor who are willing to receive Him in the day of His
+power. Is the soul of the beggar more dear to God as a dwelling place
+than these lofty temples? Forever the world is saying "Lord, behold what
+manner of stones and what buildings are here?" And the Lord cares more
+for the toiling fisherman, the poor disheartened widow, and the laboring
+and heavy laden peasant than the grandest buildings. The cost of these
+churches would buy out Achil island and the appurtenances thereof, I
+think. It would maybe purchase the wildest tract of the Donegal
+mountains. I wonder if a hardy mountain people, who could live on their
+own soil, and begin to feel the stirrings of enterprise and energy,
+would be as acceptable to Him who came anointed to preach the gospel to
+the poor as these poems in stone. Who knows?
+
+We sat on a bench under the trees and looked at the harbor--its waters
+cut by many a flying keel, at Spike Island lying in the sun, all its
+fortifications as silent and lonely looking as if no convict nor any
+other living creature was there. Steamboats for "a' the airts the winds
+can blaw," were passing out and away, leaving a train of smoke behind
+them, and big sail vessels, three-masted and with sails packed up, are
+waiting to go, and revenue cutters and small passenger boats are flying
+about each on their way.
+
+A lady sits by me and is drawn to talk to the stranger of the greenness
+of the grass here winter and summer, of the beauty spread out all
+around. She tells of one who died away in another land brought home to
+lie under the daisies here, just twenty years ago to-day. Other people,
+she says, are proud of their country, are fond of their country, but
+none have the same love for their country as the Irish have for green
+Erin. Every inch of ground; every blade of grass in Ireland is holy,
+says this lady with tears in her eyes. She is thinking of the dust that
+Irish grass covers from her sight. It is on an anniversary we meet; she
+cannot help speaking on this day of sacred things. The steamboat is
+wading up to the wharf. We do not know one another's names, but we have
+drawn near to each other--we clasp hands and part with a mutual God
+bless you. The little boat swallows up all that are willing to come on
+board, and like a black swan she sails up over the calm river, under the
+bright sky, past the handsome houses and the lovely grounds, among the
+clustering masts back to the rich city of Cork.
+
+All the people injured in the attack on the rejoicing at Sir George
+Colthurst's marriage are pronounced recovered to-day, except the one who
+was wounded by a shot; he is still in the infirmary. A dignitary of the
+Catholic Church who preached at Millstreet, where the disturbance took
+place, introduced into his sermon remarks on the state of society there,
+when his hearers became affected with coughing to such a degree that the
+rev. gentleman had to stop for a time and speak directly to his hearers.
+After the sermon most of the congregation left the church before mass--
+few remaining.
+
+The sun has come out and the harvest will be greatly benefited by this
+tardy warmth, I am sure.
+
+There has been some marching of soldiers--dragoons--fine looking men on
+fine horses--through the streets to-day, to the blare of a military
+band, accompanied and escorted by all the loose population of Cork. I
+was much interested to see among the running crowd the good pace made by
+a man with a wooden leg, who really could hop along with the best of
+them. This is all the apology for a crowd which I have seen in Cork. I
+have not heard the roar of one belated drunkard; such sounds have broken
+slumber in other towns. Whatever excitement may be in the county, the
+city of Cork seems as quiet, as orderly and as thriving as any city in
+the kingdom.
+
+I have discovered that, though the lower part of the river Lee is
+crowded with masts and alive with traffic, the upper part, flowing along
+under the shadow of green trees and bordered by wide meadows, is as
+quiet as if it were flowing through the country miles from any city. I
+have discovered the magnificent promenade called the Mardyke, a wide,
+gravelled road overarched with trees, running along by the river. When
+the evening lamps are lit, the susceptibility of Cork wander here in
+pairs and "in couples agree." There are plenty of comfortable seats in
+which to rest, for the promenade is a very long one, and the shimmer of
+the many lamps among the green foliage has a pretty effect.
+
+
+
+
+LIV.
+
+CORK, TO BANDON, SKIBBEREEN AND SKULL.
+
+
+From Cork by the new railway to Skibbereen there is one rather
+noticeable feature by the way. All the way stations in small places are
+wooden houses built American fashion, either clapboarded or upright
+boards battened where they meet. The road is through a hilly country and
+therefore lies mostly through deep cuttings that shut out the scenery.
+There is one long tunnel not far from Cork that educates you into a
+sense of what utter darkness means. It is pleasant to look over rich
+pastures back to the city crowding its lofty hills, and to notice what a
+grand steeple-crowned city it is.
+
+The train crawls along through deep cuts, past these little wooden
+stations where everything is more primitive and backwoods looking than
+anything I have seen before in Ireland. The porters are civil and
+obliging, ready to answer the questions of the ignorant, even of those
+who travel third-class. The vast majority of the passengers are small
+traders, market-women and farmers' wives, who have been away making
+purchases.
+
+By the time we reach Dunmanway we had our allowance of light served out
+to us, a lamp being thrust through the ceiling of the car from the top,
+and by its light we steamed into Skibbereen. I expected Skibbereen to be
+a small assemblage of mud huts, but was surprised to find it a large
+town of tall houses. As the bus rattled along through one gaslight
+street after another, I kept asking myself, is this really Skibbereen.
+
+The little hotel where we stopped was very comfortable, very clean, and
+possesses a good cook. The next day in exploring the by streets and
+suburbs of the town I saw poverty enough, want enough. It was market day
+and the streets were crowded with country women in blue cloaks. These
+cloaks are all the same make, but some of them, owing to their material,
+were very stylish and shrouded as pretty black eyed, black-haired, rosy-
+cheeked women as I ever saw. Some of these cloaks are made of very fine
+material, the pleating about the shoulders very artistic, and the wide
+hoods lined with black satin when worn round the face make the wearers
+look like fancy pictures. Some of the women gather them round them in
+folds like drapery. I noticed at once that the artist who made the
+statues of O'Connell and Father Mathew had studied the drapery from the
+cloaks of some Claddagh or Skibbereen woman.
+
+Market day is used as a day for confession, and the clergy are on hard
+duty on that day. Skibbereen boasts of a bishop and numerous resident
+priests. The town is as quiet as if such a thing as a riot, an outrage
+or a mob was never known.
+
+In a little corner, squeezed in between houses, is a neat Methodist
+chapel and the parsonage beside it. Called on the minister, who received
+me graciously and was courteous and communicative. Having been by virtue
+of his office over a great part of Ireland he had seen a good deal of
+the oppression of the tenant, partly from the thoughtlessness of
+absentee landlords, partly from the want of any sympathy with the
+tenants. Had the Land League confined themselves to moderate efforts,
+and to the employment of constitutional means--means not tending to the
+dismemberment of the empire, he would have joined them with heart and
+soul, knowing the need there was of redress to the wrongs of the small
+farmer. He advised me to take a car and go on to Skull through
+Ballydehob if I wished to see poverty and misery.
+
+The road from Skibbereen to Ballydehob and Skull runs along the coast
+mostly. All that grand rocks and great stretches of water dotted with
+many islands can do to make this scenery grand, wild and romantic has
+been done by Dame Nature. It is not satisfying to merely pass along. One
+would like to tarry here and get acquainted with nature in these out-of-
+the-way haunts of hers. The cottages are most miserable, most ruinous.
+There is no limestone here. It resembles Achil Island in this respect.
+The houses are built of stones and daubed with clay. The clay soon
+filters away under the combined action of winter wind and winter frost,
+and the houses look like piles of stones tottering to fall.
+
+I heard of a pier being built somewhere here, with part of the Canadian
+money, which a priest assured me would be a great benefit to the poor
+people. I was very sorry to leave this part without seeing more of the
+country and the people. I left Skibbereen on a car for a journey by the
+coast the other way to meet the train at Bandon to return to Cork.
+
+The only industry of any kind which I saw between Skibbereen and Bandon
+was a slate quarry which they told me shipped a great quantity of slates
+besides supplying local demands. As we advanced eastward we left the
+heather-clad mountains behind us, the landscape softened down
+considerably, and became almost empty of inhabitants. That reminds me
+that about Skull was almost emptied of inhabitants also. About the time
+of the great famine the people fled away. The remains of houses are
+scattered all along on that road. Some cause has also emptied this part
+of the country of people. There is much unreclaimed land here, which is
+not to be wondered at, seeing that a fine for reclamation was exacted in
+the shape of increased rent.
+
+Clonakilty is another little town thronged with small traders and places
+"licensed to sell." As we passed east the long boundary walls that
+enclose gentlemen's plantations begin to prevail.
+
+A little way, maybe two miles, out of Clonakilty is the property of Mr.
+Bence Jones, who has created some stir in the world. One hears story
+after story of his grasping and overbearing disposition. The chief
+accusation is adding to a man's rent if his father dies. Case after case
+of this was spoken of by the passengers on the car with me. Whether
+these accusations against Mr. Bence Jones were true or false, here is
+his place, and a very fine place it is. The lodge is at one side of the
+road, the entrance to his residence at the other. The residence is very
+nice, very commodious, and is at some distance from the road. The
+property is extensive, but very poor land--mountain and bog. His walled-
+in plantation ran along the road for quite a great distance. When they
+spoke of him on the car the mere mention of his name caused the driver
+to lose himself in profanity.
+
+From Clonakilty to Bandon was a long, dreary drive, and the night had
+fallen for some time, sharp and chill, before we entered the second time
+into merry Bandon town. It is quite a large place, and, entered by
+another way than the railway, looks bright and pleasant. The houses are
+lofty on the principal streets, and the whole town has a scattered
+appearance. It was a welcome sight to us, weary of travelling by car,
+and visions of a warm fire and a good supper--for I had travelled from
+breakfast without waiting to eat--ran in my head; but it was Saturday
+night, a train was almost due for Cork, and, contenting myself with an
+after-night glimpse of merry Bandon town, I came to the ponderous
+station, and started in due time for Cork.
+
+At one of the first way stations, where is the little clapboarded
+waiting-room, two policemen entered our compartment with a prisoner.
+Whether he was a suspect or was charged with a specific crime we did not
+learn, but surely such a poor scare-crow never was arrested before. He
+was black with dirt, as if he had been taken out of the bog, or from a
+coal-pit. His clothes were thin and ragged, and he had such a fierce,
+desperate look. The policemen fraternized with their fellow-passengers
+and chatted merrily. The prisoner listened to their talk with a kind of
+dumb fierceness, shaking his head from side to side as I have seen an
+angry horse do. It was very chilly, and he was so miserably clad that he
+shivered, though he tried not to do so.
+
+The way was long by train, and he might have marched for many a weary
+mile before he got on the train. He lay down on the seat and tried to
+sleep but could not, so he started up and resumed the wild glancing from
+side to side and the fierce head shakes. I began to think he might be
+very hungry, and if he was, he was not likely to get anything in gaol
+till morning. I had some biscuits and cheese in my satchel, and they
+began to struggle to get out, and at last I consented and handed the
+little parcel silently to the prisoner. He did not thank me, except by
+falling to and eating like a famished creature.
+
+Arrived at Cork, the police took him away on a car, and the last glimpse
+I got of him he was eating as if he had not eaten before for a week.
+
+I was very thankful when Sabbath morning found me in Cork again and with
+power to rest. There is not much appearance of Sabbath in the streets of
+Cork; it looks like a vast crowd keeping holiday. A great many shops are
+open; the stall women are in their places and seem to drive a good
+trade. I even heard a woman crying her wares as on any other day. I do
+not think that a little more Sabbath would hurt this fair town in the
+very least. I rested this day.
+
+In the evening I had the pleasure of hearing "the bells of Shandon"
+ringing the people in to worship in the old Shandon Church. I heard them
+while walking by "the pleasant waters of the river Lee." I followed
+their chime and enjoyed it, sweetly solemn and grand it was, and thought
+of Father Prout who has made them so famous, and finally found myself at
+Shandon church.
+
+When the chimes ceased I went up the high steps into the old church. It
+is very old. It is high, long and narrow. The tower, in which are the
+famous bells, seems of better workmanship than the church. It is built
+in stories. The bells were chiming out, "Oh, that will be joyful!" as I
+entered. It is a nice, homely, comfortable church; but so plain that the
+tide of fashion has rolled past it into another quarter of the town. The
+pulpit and reading-desk were supplied by a gray-haired clergyman, who
+had power to read the service, so that it had a newness as if it had
+never been heard before and to preach to the heart. With the echo of his
+words and the echo of the bells of Shandon the Sabbath closed.
+
+
+
+
+LV.
+
+THE SOUTH--THE FEELING OF THE PEOPLE--EVICTIONS AND THE LAND LAW.
+
+
+In conversing with a very sensible gentleman in Cork, he mentioned the
+competition among the farmers themselves as one reason of the high
+rents. I have heard this brought forward again and again in every part
+of Ireland. It is difficult to get so far into the confidence of the
+southern people as to know what they really think or feel. Without an
+introduction from one whom they trust they are very reticent and non-
+committal. There is another party who will not be drawn into giving an
+opinion for fear of their names appearing in print in company with these
+opinions.
+
+Cork is such a brilliant city, such a sunshiny city, for the sun shone
+while I was there as it did not shine anywhere else where I have been
+for the last two months, such a brisk, busy city, that I felt some
+regret at leaving it. Cork is a busy town, but there are many idle hands
+and hungry mouths within its boundaries.
+
+The prevalence of drinking habits is deplored by many with whom I
+conversed here. Speaking of the movement, now so rife, for encouraging
+home manufacture, especially in the shoe trade, a lady remarked that if
+there were a revival in trade without a revival in temperance many
+shoemakers would only work three days a week as had been the case in
+good times before.
+
+It was a sunny day when I looked my last on the busy city on the river
+Lee, on the numerous basket women that squat in its streets, some
+knitting or crocheting for dear life, some sitting with arms crossed,
+fat and lazy, basking contentedly in the sun beside their baskets of
+miserable stunted apples that would be thrown to the pigs in Canada.
+
+Between Cork and Mallow my travelling companion was an elderly
+Scotchman, a cattle dealer, who deplored the disturbed state of the
+country very feelingly. He admitted that there was undeniable need of a
+revision of the land tenure but thought that the people went about
+securing it in a very wrong way. I ventured to suggest that there was
+likely to be an agitation in Scotland on the land question. "Aye, there
+will and must be that, but they will manage it differently," said the
+old gentleman. He censured my excitable country people pretty freely. I
+enquired why he did not return to Scotland to live in that tranquil
+country. "He had been long, out of Scotland, about forty years, and had
+got into the ways of the Irish, and truly they were a kind-hearted
+people and easily pleased."
+
+Another gentleman in this compartment pointed out to me Blarney Castle
+in the distance, and Blarney woollen mills nearer hand, where the
+celebrated Blarney tweed is manufactured, and whispered to me that
+Father ----, I did not catch the name with the noise of the cars, had
+appeared in a suit of Blarney tweed. There and then I wished that every
+reverend Father in Ireland was dressed in native manufacture.
+
+A little fiddler was playing in the car for halfpence, and the Irish
+gentleman paid him to play Scotch tunes in our honor, thinking we were
+both Scotch, I and the old Scotch gentleman. I asked the child to play
+"Harvey Duff," as I wanted to hear that most belligerent tune. The poor
+child looked as frightened as if I had asked him to commit high treason
+and shook his head. At Mallow the fine old Scotchman got off the train.
+We had had a long talk on country and country's needs, and his fervent
+"God bless you" at parting was a comfort and encouragement to me, indeed
+it was.
+
+At a station we took up some police who had been drinking--one sergeant
+was very drunk; then some soldiers who had been drinking, and some
+civilians who were in the same state. One fine looking young farmer of
+the better sort was fighting drunk. There were sober people and a good
+many women also on the car. It was one of those cars whose compartments
+are boxed up halfway. The sergeant spilled a box of wafers and felt that
+he did not wish to pick them up; another policeman in an overcoat set
+himself to gather them up. I heard the young farmer say to him, "You're
+a peeler," and in a moment every man in the car was on his feet. We had
+not yet left the station, and many women rushed out of the car. The
+official came and locked the doors, and we steamed out of the station
+with all the men on their feet in a crowd, gesticulating and shouting at
+one another at the top of their voices. As they swayed about with the
+motion of the carriage, every soldier and constable with his rifle in
+his hand, I found myself wondering if they were loaded or could possibly
+go off of themselves.
+
+As soon as I could distinguish words among the war of sounds I
+understood that the young farmer accused the soberest sergeant of being
+one of the party that shot young Hickey at Dr. Pomeroy's, and that he
+was burning for revenge. The constable was a Northman, I knew by his
+tongue, and he was at a northern white heat of anger. The young farmer
+was almost mad with rage and drink. The drunken sergeant seemed to sober
+in the congenial element of a probable row, and he and two sober
+civilians exerted themselves to keep the peace, and to pacify the farmer
+and get him to sit down.
+
+In one of the pauses in the storm the peace-making sergeant wanted a
+match; an old man behind me who had matches was appealed to for one and
+he declined, averring with much simplicity that he was afraid of being
+shot. His wife in a vigorous whisper advised him to keep his matches in
+his pocket. Everyone in that car, drunk or sober, peace-making or not,
+sympathised with that young farmer and were against the police.
+
+We reached Fermoy quite late. The next morning early I took a car and
+drove out to Mitchelstown, at the foot of the Galtees. Passed at a
+distance, half hidden among embowering woods, the castle residence of
+Lord Mount Cashel, who seems to be as much liked here as he was on the
+Galgorm estate, but there were whispered reminiscences of by-gone wicked
+agents.
+
+The country on the way to Mitchelstown is partly very rich-looking now
+waving with the harvest. There is a long valley in sight stretching away
+for many miles, yellow with ripened corn and dotted with farm houses,
+each with a few sheltering trees. Upon what is called mountain land I
+saw a fine little farm that had been reclaimed from the heather quite
+recently. The farmer and his sons were binding after the cradle. He
+holds this land at two shillings and sixpence an acre, and hopes under
+the new Land Law that it shall not be raised on him. Mitchelstown is
+quite a large place, and was as quiet as Indian summer. Had my worst
+experience of hotel life in Fermoy, and gladly left it behind for
+Cappoquin. The road lies alongside a lovely valley of the Blackwater,
+and one has glimpses of the most enchanting scenery as they steam along.
+Cappoquin is quite a nice town, and seems to have some trade by river as
+well as by rail.
+
+Walked out through the fair country to Mount Mellary Monastery, a
+property reclaimed out of the stony heathery mountain by the monks of La
+Trappe. They have succeeded in creating smiling fields among the waste
+of the mountain wilderness. They hold the land on a lease of 999 years.
+No woman is allowed into the precincts of the monastery proper, but
+there is a hospice attached where travellers are received and
+entertained without charge, but any gratuity is accepted. There is also
+a school among the buildings.
+
+The valley between Cappoquin and Mount Mellary is strikingly beautiful.
+There is tradition of a great battle having been fought here once in the
+dim past when a hundred fights was no uncommon allowance of battle to
+one warrior. All is quiet and peaceful here now. The crops are being
+gathered in in the sunshine, and everything is smiling and serene. I
+received very much kindness in Cappoquin for which there will always be
+sunshine over my memories of it.
+
+
+
+
+LVI.
+
+TIPPERARY--OVER THE KNOCK-ME-LE-DOWM MOUNTAINS--"NATE CLOGHEEN"--CAHIR--
+WATERFORD--DUBLIN.
+
+
+From Cappoquin I proposed to go to Cahir, across the pass, through the
+Knock-me-le-Down Mountains. Took a car for this journey which was driven
+by the only sullen and ill-tempered driver which I had seen on my
+journey through Ireland. The road passed through Lismore, a little town
+about four miles from Cappoquin, which is in a red hot state of
+excitement just now; the bitterest feelings rage about the land
+question. Evictions and boycottings are the order of the day. The
+feeling of exasperation against the police is so determined that
+supplies of any kind for their use could not be purchased for any money
+in Lismore. The police feel just as exasperated against Miss Parnell,
+who attends all evictions as a sympathizer with the tenants, and reports
+all the proceedings. The police made an effigy of her and stoned it to
+pieces to relieve their feelings.
+
+The road to Lismore lay along a fair valley; the town itself was a
+pleasant surprise. It looked as peaceful and peaceable as possible when
+I passed through it; there was neither sight nor sound to reveal the
+present state of things among the people. From the grand castle of
+Lismore the road wound along between low range walls, ivy-covered and
+moss-grown, that fenced in extensive woods, clothing bold hills and deep
+valleys with wild verdure. The wildness of these woods and their thick
+growth of underbrush reminded me of far off Canadian forests.
+
+We overtook a decent-looking country woman, who was toiling along the
+road with a big basket; the car man took her up; she seemed an old
+acquaintance. On one side of the road below the range wall a shallow
+little river ran brawling among the stones. I tried to find out its name
+from the woman with the basket but she could only tell its name in
+Irish, a very long name, and not to be got hold of hastily. "Her son was
+in America--God bless it for a home for the homeless!--and he had that
+day sent her L120, which she was carrying home in the bosom of her
+dress." "She had good boys who neither meddled with tobacco or drink,
+and not many mothers could say that for their sons." "Her boys were as
+good boys to their father and mother as ever wore shoes, thoughtful and
+quiet they were." "They had good learning and did not need to work as
+laborers." I asked her why she did not go out to America. "Ould trees
+don't take kindly to transplanting," she said, "I will see the hills I
+have looked at all my life around me as long as I see anything. I want
+the green grass that covers all my people to cover me at last."
+
+At a turn in the road the woman left us to climb a steep _boreen_
+that led to her home among the hills, with her heavy basket and her
+son's love gift of L120 in her bosom, and I sat in the car dreamily
+looking at the wooded hills and wondered how dear a hilly country is to
+its inhabitants.
+
+The most beautiful thing which I saw in Killarney was the feeling of
+proprietorship and kinship that all the people felt in and for the
+mountains and lakes. It takes a lifetime to get thoroughly acquainted
+with the eternal hills. They have ways of their own that they only
+display upon long acquaintance. You can see shadowy hands draw on the
+misty night cap or fold round massive shoulders the billowy gray drapery
+or inky cloak when passing rain squall or mountain tempest is brewing.
+They wrinkle their brows and draw near with austere familiarity; they
+retreat and let the sunshine and shadows play hide-and-seek round them,
+or lift their bald heads in still summer sunshine with calm joyfulness.
+The dwellers among them learn to love them through all their varying
+moods.
+
+As I dreamed dreams the car driver, the surliest of his class which I
+have met, was urging a tired horse up a gradual ascent higher and higher
+among the hills, until we left houses, holdings, roads--except the
+gamekeeper's or bog rangers' track--far below us. These wild places, he
+told me, had no deer, but unlimited grouse, hares and rabbits. I was
+inclined to think very slightly of rabbits, especially when told of land
+that had formerly supported inhabitants having been given over to small
+game of this kind; but a gentleman landholder told me of a nobleman's
+estate (I will not name him for fear I mistake the name) which averaged
+1,000 rabbits weekly, which were worth one shilling and sixpence a
+couple after all expenses were paid. I have respected rabbits as rivals
+of human beings ever since.
+
+We got up among the bleak mountains at last, high and bare, except where
+their rocky nakedness was covered with ragged heather. Silent and awful
+their huge bulk rose behind one another skyward. After we had long
+passed sight or sound of human habitation, we suddenly came to a
+whitewashed cosy police station in the shelter of the mountains, with a
+pretty garden in front, and a pleasant-faced constable came down for the
+mail. It was such a lovely place for a man to wear a cheerful face in,
+that I could not help saying, "You have a nice place here, sergeant."
+"Yes," he smilingly answered, "but lonely enough at times." The car man
+was very sullen, and seemed eager to pick a quarrel with the policeman,
+which the other evaded with dexterous good nature, while another
+policeman, pipe in mouth, hands in pockets, gloomed at the driver from
+behind him.
+
+I should not wonder if my driver resented me speaking to the policeman,
+for feeling runs high against them in these southern counties for a long
+time now; he was still more sullen, at all events, after we passed the
+station. I was told that from these Knock-me-le-Down Mountains, I could
+see a glimpse of the Galtees, but the mountains began to array
+themselves in, what the sullen driver called fog, cloaks of gray mists
+that fell in curling folds down their brown sides. Up and up we climbed,
+along a road that twisted itself among the solemn giants of the hills
+sitting in veiled awfulness. We passed a boundary ridge that separated
+the Duke of Devonshire's lands from the next landlord, and I thought we
+were at the highest point of the pass, and here the storm came down, and
+the mountain rain and mountain winds began to fight and struggle round
+every peak and through every glen. I have never ventured among the
+mountains yet without rousing the fury of the mountain spirits. The
+jaded horse got himself into a staggering gallop, and so, chased by the
+storm, we threaded our way about and around on the downward slope of the
+mountains. It grew very dark, and we jaunted along a bit in one
+direction, and then turned sharp and jaunted off in another, the driver
+informing me that this was the V of the mountains, and miles
+immeasurably spread seemed lengthening as we hurried on.
+
+We reached at length, at the foot of the hills, the "town of nate
+Clogheen, where Sergeant Snap met Paddy Carey." As far as the darkness
+permitted us to see, Clogheen is still neat Clogheen. A little further
+west is the classic little town of Ballyporeen, which has danced to
+music that was not wedding music more than once during late years.
+
+After we left Clogheen and struck through a wide plain for Cahir the
+moon came out and touched the dark mountains with silver and they folded
+away their gray robes until we should return. Those eight Irish miles
+from Clogheen to Cahir were the longest miles I have ever met with,
+exceeding in length the famous Rasharken miles. Here in a rambling,
+forsaken like assemblage of stairs and passages, called a hotel, we
+found a room and I rested for the remaining hours of the night. I never
+bestowed whip money so grudgingly as I did on the sullen driver who
+brought me through the Knock-me-le-down mountains. Under his care all my
+bags and parcels came to grief in the most innocently unaccountable way
+and were carried in in a wrecked condition.
+
+In the morning the melancholy waiter who set my little breakfast at one
+end of a desert of a table in a dusty wilderness of a room, commenced
+bemoaning over the poverty of the country. It was a market morning and
+there were many asses, creels and carts with fish drawn up in the market
+place. I ventured to suggest a fish for breakfast, which was an utter
+impossibility. Cahir has a handsome old castle standing close to its
+main street which is still inhabited.
+
+We dropped down by rail through Clonmel to Waterford, our companions by
+the way being all returning tourists, English and Welsh people over for
+a holiday to see the disturbances in Ireland, which they had always
+missed seeing some way. We amused ourselves in drawing comparisons
+between the lines of rail in Ireland and those in other countries to the
+total disparagement of Irish railways. They spoke of the railways in
+England and Wales, and I exalted Canadian railways.
+
+Waterford seemed a pretty, lively, bustling town. The river seemed alive
+with boats; there was a good deal of building going on near the depot,
+and the people had a step and an air as if they had something to do and
+were hurrying to do it. It looked very unlike its ancient name, which
+was, I am told, the Glen of Lamentation. Tales still linger here of the
+sack of Waterford by Strongbow and his marriage to Princess Eva, and of
+the landing here of Henry the Second when he came to take possession.
+
+From Waterford up through Kilkenny in the sunshine, wondering to see hay
+still being cut in September. Heard no word of Kilkenny black coal or
+Kilkenny marble and passed on to Bagenalstown in Carlow and up through
+Kildare to Dublin.
+
+The days were passing so swiftly away that there was but a little time
+to see Dublin sights; the question was, therefore, what to see and what
+not to see. Owing to the kindness of Miss Leitch, an art student, I had
+the privilege of half an hour in the Academy. Having so little time I
+spent it all before Maclise's picture of the marriage of Strongbow and
+Princess Eva and in a small way understood how a great painter can tell
+a story. The museum of Irish antiquities was the next place. I wanted to
+see the brooch of Tara and saw it, but I was not prepared to see so many
+reliques of gold and silver telling their own tale of the grandeur of
+the native rulers of the Ireland of long ago. The ingenuity shown in the
+broad collars of beaten gold which made them be alike fitted for collar
+or tiara was surprising. The shape of the brooches and cloak clasps are
+so like the Glenelg heirlooms which I saw in Glengarry families that the
+relationship between the clans of the Highlands and the Irish septs is
+quite apparent. There was quite a large room entirely devoted to gold
+and silver ornaments. One side was given up to gold collars, neck
+ornaments, bracelets, armlets and cloak clasps, all of gold. There was
+another cabinet of rings of various kinds. Some of the rings and
+bracelets are quite like modern ones. Saint Patrick's bell was another
+object of great interest to me. It was plain and common-looking,
+evidently for use, shaped a good deal like a common cow bell. I liked to
+think how often it had called the primitive people to hear God's message
+of mercy to them from the lips of his laborious messenger. Beside it
+stood the elaborate case which the piety of other ages manufactured for
+the bell. It is such an easy matter to deck shrines and garnish the
+sepulchres of the righteous when they are gone past the place where the
+echoes of man's praise can reach. It is easier than hearing and obeying
+the message which they carry. We were given a powerful magnifying glass
+to inspect the workmanship of the shrine that held the bell, but my
+thoughts would turn back to the plain common-looking bell itself. Still
+I did admire the exquisite workmanship of the shrine, which could only
+be fully appreciated when seen through the magnifying glass. It required
+the magnifying glass also to fully bring out the richness of the
+delicate tracery on the brooch of Tara. There were in another room quite
+a number of short swords of cast bronze similar to the one presented to
+me in Mayo. Some of them had been furbished up till they looked like
+gold. There were some specimens of the bronze chain mail used by the
+ancient Irish, and the foot covering, which they wore a good deal like
+Indian moccassins, answering exactly to the description given by Scott
+in the notes to the Lady of the Lake, of the kind of brogans of the dun
+deer's hide which shod the fleet-footed Malise, messenger of the fiery
+cross. There was also a woollen dress found in a bog, which was exactly
+shaped like a modern princess dress. I was sorry I had only one poor
+sixty minutes to carry off all my eyes could gather up in that time of
+these reliques of ancient Ireland. I would recommend any one who cares
+for the ancient history of Ireland to study these records of the past.
+What we see affects us more than what we hear.
+
+
+
+
+DUBLIN--HOME AGAIN.
+
+
+To my friend, Councillor Leitch, one of the many successful men who have
+migrated from the Moravian settlement of Grace Hill, I had expressed a
+wish to see the face of Jonathan Pim, the landlord of whose goodness I
+heard so much in the neighborhood of Clew Bay. Through Mr. Leitch's
+kindness I obtained a seat in the gallery of the round room of the
+Mansion House where the meeting was held to consider the advisability of
+holding an exhibition of Irish manufactures. It was expected that I
+should see Mr. Jonathan Pim at this meeting, but he was not there; he
+was represented by his son. It was something for my backwoods eyes to be
+privileged to see this grand room, built, I hear, for the reception of
+His Gracious Majesty King George the Fourth when he made his visit to
+Ireland, called the "Irish Avatar." At one side of the round room was a
+sort of dais, on which was a chair of state that, I suppose, represented
+a throne. Round the gallery were hung shields, containing the coats-of-
+arms of the worshipful the Lords Mayor of Dublin. The chair was occupied
+by the present Lord Mayor, a very fine-looking gentleman who became his
+gold chain of office well.
+
+The day before I had been taken by Mrs. Leitch to an academy of arts and
+industry. For some reason of alterations and repairs there was no
+admission beyond the vestibule. In this entrance hall were specimen
+slabs and pillars of all the Irish marbles, which were there in as great
+variety as in Shushan the palace. There was the marble of Connemara in
+every shade of green, black marble of Kilkenny, red marble of Cork, blue
+credited to Killarney, I think, and many, many others. I think there was
+hardly a county in Ireland unrepresented. I do think that among all this
+wealth of marbles the Irish people might gratify their most fastidious
+taste without sending to Italy. I saw a good many productions of Irish
+industry, but they seem always confined to the localities which produce
+them. You see things in shop windows ticketed Scotch and English, but,
+until this new movement began, nothing marked Irish. Yet Limerick laces
+might tempt any fine lady, as well as Antrim linens and Down damasks.
+There is also Blarney tweed of great cheapness and excellence, Balina
+blankets, and the excellent Claddagh flannel.
+
+If there were enterprise as well, and a desire to patronize home
+industries, I think the chimneys of factories now silent and idle might
+smoke again. I particularly noticed in every corner of Ireland where I
+have been that where I saw the tall chimneys of factories in operation I
+did not see barefoot women with barefoot asses selling ass loads of turf
+for threepence.
+
+I left Dublin--really, I may say, an almost unseen Dublin--behind me and
+turned my face Belfastwards.
+
+Drogheda is the last place of which I have taken any notes. I was a day
+or two there. In fact I was more than a few days, but was confined to my
+room by a severe neuralgia most of the time. There is a fine railway
+bridge here, lofty enough for schooners to sail under. The land on both
+sides of the river is like a garden, and is devoted to pleasure grounds
+in the usual proportion. I was wishful to see the very spot on the banks
+of the Boyne where James and William fought for a kingdom long ago. As I
+looked at the fair country checked off into large fields by green
+hedges, at the waving trees of enclosed pleasure-grounds, I recalled
+King William's words about Ireland, "This land is worth fighting for,"
+and I thought he was right.
+
+The Boyne is but a small river, no wider than the Muskrat at Pembroke,
+but deep enough to carry schooners a little way up. There is a canal
+beside it, and it was full of barges carrying coal and other things.
+Near to Drogheda town, in the suburbs, is a bridge over the Boyne. I
+crossed it looking for the locality of the battle. Meeting a clerical-
+looking gentleman, I enquired if he could point out to me where the
+battle of the Boyne was fought. This gentleman, who was a Franciscan
+friar, directed me to keep along the road by the river bank, when I
+would come to another bridge and the monument beside it. "It stands
+there a disgrace to Drogheda and a disgrace to all Ireland," he said. He
+showed me the new Franciscan church, a very grand cut stone building.
+There is also a Dominican church, and an Augustinian, besides two
+others, and there was the foundation stone of still another to the
+memory of that Oliver Plunket, Catholic archbishop and primate of
+Ireland, put to death in the time of Titus Oates. I was informed that
+the proportion of Catholics to Protestants in Drogheda is six to one.
+
+Walking through Drogheda on market day I did not see one barefoot woman
+in the crowd; all were pretty well dressed and well shod. The asses were
+sleek and fat, shod and attached to carts. How different from Ramelton,
+Donegal, Manor Hamilton, Leitrim, Castlebar or Mayo, where straw
+harness, lean asses and hungry, barefoot women abound. The land is good
+round Drogheda, and there is manufacturing going on. This makes the
+difference.
+
+I will never get up along the Boyne at this rate. I went along the south
+side and, hearing the cheery clack of a loom, went into a cottage to see
+the weaver, a woman. She was weaving canvas for stiffening for coats.
+Could make threepence a yard, which was better pay a good deal than the
+Antrim weavers of fine linen make. She was much exercised in her mind
+against Mr. Vere Forster, who helps young western girls to emigrate to
+America, confounding him with the infamous wretches who decoy girls to
+France and Belgium. I tried to set her right, to explain matters to her,
+but I am afraid that I did not succeed in convincing her.
+
+The land on both sides of the Boyne is dotted with houses and filled
+with people, so the country looks more cheerful than in empty Mayo or
+Roscommon. I spoke to a farmer who was looking hopefully at a large
+field of oats, and asked him what rent he paid. Owing to his nearness to
+Drogheda he paid L7 per acre. "How can you pay it?" I asked. "I can pay
+it in good years well enough," he said. "What have you left for
+yourself?" "I have the straw," he answered. I walked on and got weary
+enough before I came to the iron bridge and the monument. The monument
+has a very neglected, weather-stained appearance. Where Duke Schomberg
+was said to have fallen there was a growth of red poppies. I plucked
+some as a memorial of the place. I returned by the Meath side along a
+lovely tree-shaded road.
+
+Some work-people explained to me that the late severe winters had
+destroyed the song birds of Ireland. I did not hear one lark sing in all
+the summer since I came. These working people were all anxious to
+emigrate if they had some means, and listened eagerly to the advantages
+of Canada as a place for settlement.
+
+I was one Sabbath day in Drogheda, and attended service in the
+Presbyterian church there, which was opposite the spot where the great
+massacre of women and children took place in Cromwell's time. This was
+eagerly pointed out to me. The congregation was very small, not half
+filling the church.
+
+Between Dublin and Belfast I had as travelling companion a Manchester
+merchant, who had run over during his holidays to have a peep at the
+turbulent Irish. He had been in Ireland for a few weeks, and had visited
+some cabins and spoken to some laborers, and had settled the matter to
+his own satisfaction. "The ills of Ireland arise from the inordinate
+love of the soil in the Irish, and their lower civilization. For
+instance, an English farmer in renting a farm would consider how much
+would support his family first, and if the landlord would not accept as
+rent what was left the bargain would not be struck. The Irish farmer
+would think first how much he could give the landlord, and would
+calculate to live somehow, not as any human beings should live, but
+somehow on the balance."
+
+This was his theory. He denounced in no measured terms the union of
+Church and State, blaming this for the prevalent unbelief.
+
+In many parts of Ireland I have been taken for some one else. I have had
+secrets whispered to me under the mistake that I was somebody else, and
+words of warning given that were of no use to me, but the funniest of
+all was on my way from Dublin to Belfast. At a station in Down, I think,
+a gentleman got into our compartment who was in the good-natured stage
+of tipsyness. He seemed to labor under the impression that I had, in
+company with my brother, canvassed eagerly for Colonel Knox at the
+Tyrone election. He felt called upon to tell me some home truths, the
+bitterness of which he qualified with nods and smiles. "We bate your
+Colonel Knox, mem, in spite of you and your brother. Thank God for the
+ballot, mem, we can vote according to our own consciences, mem, not as
+we're told as it used to be, mem. You and your party think you have all
+the sense and learning and religion in Ireland, mem. All your religion
+is in your song, 'We'll kick the Pope before us.' All your learning,
+mem, is to hold up King William a decent man and abuse King James at the
+Orange meetings in Scrabba where your brother speaks. You and your kind
+need to know nothing but what happened in '98 and only one side of that.
+What happens in '81, mem, you hold your noses too high to notice." In
+this manner my tipsy friend ran on until the train stopped at Lisburn,
+when he left with a parting benediction. "God bless you, mem, you're
+better natured than I thought you were. May you go to heaven and that's
+where your brother won't go in a hurry."
+
+I had to go to Liverpool to catch the ship and so had to forego seeing
+many things in Belfast which I had hoped to see. It was with some
+gladness I saw the ship "Ontario" again. Having arrived before the other
+cabin passengers I took the opportunity of going over the steerage with
+Mr. Duffin, the excellent chief steward. The quarters for steerage
+passengers were on the same deck as the saloon, as lofty and as well
+ventilated. The berths were arranged in groups with an enclosed state
+room to each. Single men by themselves, families by themselves, single
+women by themselves and foreigners by themselves, every division having
+their own conveniences for cleanliness and comfort. I am sure the
+arrangements for steerage passengers on the "Ontario" would have
+gladdened the heart of Miss Charlotte O'Brien.
+
+I speak for myself, and I know I speak the sentiments of all the cabin
+passengers, when I say that nothing could exceed the provisions made for
+our comfort, or the courtesy and kindness shown by the captain and
+officers of the "Ontario" to us all, both in saloon and steerage. In
+conversation on board these sentiments came up often, and with
+enthusiasm, and captain and crew, and the stout ship met with no
+measured praise.
+
+Before retiring behind the curtain to shake hands with sea-sickness
+again, we had a long, fond look at the land we were leaving. Liverpool
+had receded into a long, low line of twinkling lamps. My thoughts went
+through the mist to the land of my own people now passing through the
+throes of a great change.
+
+  Erin, beloved and beautiful, once more
+  The time of parting comes to thee and me;
+  The sad delight of pilgrimage is o'er,
+  And voices call to me across the sea.
+
+  In Canada the magic summer shines,
+  A purple haze upon the mountain broods,
+  The soft warm breeze is whispering through the pines.
+  And leaping waters thunder through the woods.
+
+  September radiance tints the forest grand,
+  The maples are aflame upon the hills;
+  From bursting barns plenty smiles o'er the land,
+  Where the tall farmer owns the soil he tills.
+
+  Erin, thy robe of green is dewed with tears,
+  Fields outrage-stained, thy west wind thick with sighs,
+  Thou that hast walked with woe down through the years,
+  Weighted with all the wrongs of centuries.
+
+  Erin, beloved with love akin to pain,
+  Through woe and outrage, turbulence and strife,
+  Thou shalt arise and enter once again
+  Into a higher, freer, glorious life.
+
+
+
+
+A LAST WORD--THE CAUSE OF IRELAND'S TROUBLES.
+
+
+Because I have had the privilege of being Irish correspondent for the
+Montreal _Witness_ for a time, I think it right to explain to you
+the change which travelling through my native country has produced in my
+sentiments and the convictions forced upon me.
+
+Brought up in the North of Ireland in a purely Hiberno-Scotch
+neighborhood, I drank in with my native air all the ideas which reign in
+that part of Ireland. The people with whom I came in contact were
+Conservatives of the strongest type; from my youth up, therefore, I had
+the cause of Ireland's poverty and misery as an article of belief. I
+never dreamed that the tenure of land had anything to do with it.
+Landlords were lords and leaders, benefactors and protectors to their
+tenants in my imagination.
+
+I changed my opinion while in Ireland, and now I believe that the land
+tenure is the main cause of Ireland's miseries.
+
+English history is pretty much a history of struggles against monopolies
+of one kind and another. There is no monopoly, it seems to me, which
+bears such evil fruit as the monopoly of all the land of a country in
+the hands of a few. It is bad for the country, bad for the people, and
+bad for the landlords, whether the monopolists are honorable companies,
+a landed aristocracy, or an ecclesiastical corporation. God's-law, which
+is the law of our faith, shows plainly how the Great Lawgiver regards
+the monopoly of land by the care which He took to have a direct interest
+in the land of Canaan by personal inheritance for every Jew. To guard
+against the might of greed, to prevent the poor of the land, touched by
+misfortune or snared by debt, from sinking into farm laborers or serfs
+of the soil he instituted the year of jubilee when every man returned to
+his inheritance.
+
+I first thought over these things in connection with the land question
+in Ireland when travelling there and seeing the evils arising from the
+existing tenure of land. I met with testimony everywhere of how often
+and how fatally the will of a lord interfered to prevent prosperity.
+There might have been a seam of coal opened in Antrim but for one
+landlord. In the present depressed state of the linen trade what a boon
+that would have been to the country. There might have been ship-building
+on the Foyle, to the great benefit of Derry and her people, but for the
+absentee landlords, the London companies. Donegal might have had a coal
+mine opened, but the landlord would neither open it himself nor let
+anyone else do it, and yet the great want of Donegal is employment for
+her people.
+
+I did not think for a moment that the landlords of Ireland were, as a
+rule, naturally worse than other men, but they have too much power, and
+when "self the wavering balance shakes, it's rarely right adjusted."
+
+I blame the system, not the men. There were and are landlords in Ireland
+too noble to abuse their power, of which class the Earl of Belmore is an
+illustrious example; but these men are noble in spite of the system
+which afforded every facility for the enormities of Lord Leitrim.
+
+The evil of the Land Tenure is intensified by the fact that one class
+makes laws for another, and that the same class has all the executive of
+these laws under their control. There was no power in the law to protect
+the inhabitants of Milford when the earnings and savings of their whole
+lives, and the private property of their minister were confiscated by
+the strong hand, and some were reduced in consequence to beg their
+bread. The law, planned expressly to be an expensive luxury, was only
+for the rich, and was known to the poor, if they dared to contend with
+their landlord, as an engine of oppression. The judge who gave the award
+in Mrs. Auldjo's case knew better than anyone else the cost of Irish
+law, and that the award he gave her under the Act of 1870 was a
+defeating of the intentions of the law, as it was really less than the
+law costs. His award added insult to injury to a woman who was a widow,
+and wantonly ruined in fortune because she dared to contend with a lord.
+The same spirit of partisanship invented the infamous Grand Jury system.
+
+After I left Antrim, while travelling through the wilds of Donegal, the
+glens of Leitrim, and all through beautiful and desolate Mayo, I
+wondered over the absolute power which was left in the hands of the
+landholders and the great gulf which separated them from the land-
+tilling class. Public opinion, which they control, seems to have
+absolutely no sympathy with the common people when they were behind in
+their rents, although they were emerging from a period of agricultural
+distress, culminating in absolute famine. I watched the papers, I took
+good heed to the conversation that went on around me, and saw or heard
+no expression of sympathy when events took place which, I had thought,
+impossible under British law.
+
+When Mrs. Whittington, of Malin, was put out in the wild March weather,
+with a child three days old in her arms and a flock of six around her, I
+looked for some one to raise a voice of protest, but there was not a
+whisper. When a landlord's official forced his way past husband, doctor
+and nurse, to the bedside of Mrs. Stewart, to order her to get out of
+bed to go to the workhouse, bringing on fits that caused the death of
+her babe and nearly cost her her life, I watched eagerly for some voice
+to say this should not have been done, but there was none. I have heard
+of retreating armies stopping and hazarding battle, rather than forsake
+a childing woman in her extremity, in countries not boasting of so
+enlightened a government as our own. I had so gloried in the British
+Constitution, its justice, its mercy! I waited to see what the law would
+do in this case. All the facts were admitted in court, yet this man, who
+forgot that he, too, was born of a woman, was triumphantly acquitted and
+not one word of disapproval appeared in any public print that I saw.
+
+I have often come home after seeing that on the side of the oppressor
+was power--the power of bayonets--and that the poor had no helper, until
+I could not sleep for pain and could only cry to our Father--theirs and
+mine--How long, Lord, how long!
+
+A friend described to me quite gaily a scene at the Castlebar workhouse
+during the last famine, when the starving creatures coming for relief
+surged round the workhouse gate and pressed and hustled and trampled
+down one another, how the police standing ankle deep in mud had to lay
+about them with their batons, and the poor creatures were sent home
+again, and yet again, until they would learn to keep order--keep order--
+and they were starving!
+
+A lady in Clones, who was talking to me on Sabbath School work and
+missionary enterprise in a highly edifying manner, could only express
+her surprise about the poor of her own people who were doomed to the
+poor house, that they did not go in at once without struggle or fuss.
+And yet she had been a mother, and must have known what parting with
+children meant to a mother's heart. For my part I sympathized with that
+mother of whom I read in the papers, who was taken before a magistrate
+and sentenced for making a disturbance in the workhouse when she heard
+the master beating her child.
+
+I wondered much at a noble and high-minded Irish gentleman who feels
+strong sympathy with the Oka Indians, who, in speaking to me of a man
+caught in company with another fishing by night, thereby transgressing
+the law, and was deliberately shot down by the agent of the property,
+expressed his regret that the other had not been also shot. Hardening
+the heart I hold to be one of the very apparent effects of the land
+system.
+
+Another evil is the encouragement of unutterable meanness; a meanness
+that allows rich men to manage to extract under pressure gratuitous work
+out of these poor people. No one needs to be told that the Irish peasant
+is worse fed, worse clothed, worse housed than any peasant in Europe,
+yet gentlemen will take from these gratuitous work, and see so little to
+be ashamed of in the transaction as to write about it over their own
+signature, as Ernest Cochrane did in the columns of the _Witness_.
+I have heard of miles of separating fence being made, in this way, of
+walls being built and even of monuments being erected "in memoriam" in
+the same way. I was told of a noble lord having brought a gentle
+pressure to bear on his Irish tenants to cause them to subscribe over
+and above their rents for the benefit of those who were suffering from
+an accident in his English collieries.
+
+I have wondered to hear gentlemen, and even clergymen, in Ireland
+wishing that the people would rise in rebellion so that there might be
+an opportunity of laying the cold steel to them and putting them down
+effectually. I have also wondered at the refusal of the authorities to
+have the riots in Limerick investigated; surely that does not look like
+impartial justice. I have wondered again over the openly avowed purpose
+of rooting the people out of the country.
+
+I have looked with great concern and astonishment at the lands already
+wasted and almost without inhabitants. I have read with great pain the
+Lord Lieutenant's speech at Belfast, aspersing the country as disloyal
+and threatening them with greater tyranny. The people are disloyal, to a
+system of oppression and absolutism which neither they nor their fathers
+were able to bear; but I believe from my heart that they are more loyal
+to Her Majesty than their oppressors are, for the system has made them
+oppressors. Only notice, from Mr. Smith's evidence at the Land Court
+recently, concerning the Enniskillen estate, for which he is agent, it
+is proven that even in Protestant Ulster a landlord can abolish the
+Ulster custom--the root of Ulster's exceptional prosperity--at the
+motion of his own will. In the trials for turbary in the Kiltyclogher
+cases a rule made by a landlord in his office overrides even a lease,
+and is accepted as _de facto_ law in the court.
+
+These things have convinced me that the exterminating landlords are the
+parties who are guilty of high treason against the commonwealth of
+England. The loyalty of Irish Catholics to a country that had scant
+justice to give them has been proven on every battle field from far
+India to the Crimea. No history of England's wars in these later times
+can be written truly without acknowledging the Irish blood given like
+water for England's honor.
+
+Scotland has been more favored of late years, although the time is not
+so far distant when her language, her dress and ancient customs were
+also proscribed. Watching this, I have found myself wishing that some
+Irish Walter Scott would arise whose pen would make Ireland's lakes and
+glens, mountain passes and battlemented rocks, ruined castles and
+mouldering abbeys, famous and fashionable as Scotland's brown heath and
+shaggy wood, till the Queen would love to have a home there, and the
+nobles of the land would follow in her shadow.
+
+I have changed my opinion on this also. The nobles come to covet the
+homes of the people. The Highlands of Scotland seem destined to become a
+hunting ground. The hardy mountaineers, guilty of no crime, must give up
+their hamlets and shielings, the inheritance of their fathers, at the
+order of any trader who has coined the sweat of his fellow men
+successfully into guineas, or any idle lord who has money. If "a death
+grapple of the nations" should ever come to England will she miss the
+Connaught Rangers, the glorious 88th who won from stern Picton the
+cheer, "Well done 88th," or the Enniskillen dragoons so famed in song
+and story, or the North Cork that moved to battle as to a festival? Will
+she miss "the torrent of tartan and steel" that charged at the Alma, or
+the cry that "the hills of grey Caledon know the shout of McDonald,
+McLean and McKay, when they dash at the breast of the foe?" Will she
+miss the clansmen of Athol, Breadalbane and Mar? Will the exterminating
+lords who must have hunting grounds at all hazards come to the front
+with squadrons of deer or battalions of rabbits? Surely it is an aweful
+thing to sweep the inhabitants of a country for gain. If Britain ever
+has to call on these Varuses for her legions, or to repeat George II.'s
+cry at Fontenoy, will the enemy be able to countervail the Queen's
+damage?
+
+I would earnestly plead with the authorities, even yet, to try a little
+conciliation instead of such strong doses of coercion. History tells how
+cheaply the disturbed Highlands were pacified compared with the expense
+of coercing them, which was a failure. The tithe of the expense for
+bayonets would, I am convinced, make the West of Ireland contented and
+make future prosperity possible.
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Letters of "Norah" on her Tour
+Through Ireland, by Margaret Dixon McDougall
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NORAH ON HER TOUR THROUGH IRELAND ***
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+This file should be named 6599.txt or 6599.zip
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