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diff --git a/old/65981-0.txt b/old/65981-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1dec4cf..0000000 --- a/old/65981-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9119 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels through the states of North America, -and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, -and 1797 [Vol 2 of 2], by Isaac Weld - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces - of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 - [Vol 2 of 2] - -Author: Isaac Weld - -Release Date: August 2, 2021 [eBook #65981] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Tim Lindell, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS THROUGH THE STATES OF -NORTH AMERICA, AND THE PROVINCES OF UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, DURING THE -YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797 [VOL 2 OF 2] *** - - - - - Travels Through the States of North America, - and the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, - During the Years 1795, 1796, and 1797, Vol. II. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - _TRAVELS_ - - - THROUGH THE STATES - - OF - - _NORTH AMERICA_, - - AND THE - - PROVINCES OF - - UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, - - DURING - - THE YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797. - - ────────── - - BY _ISAAC WELD_, JUNIOR. - - ────────── - - SECOND EDITION. - - ILLUSTRATED AND EMBELLISHED WITH SIXTEEN PLATES. - - ────────── - - _IN TWO VOLUMES_. - - _VOL. II_ - - ════════════════════════════════════ - - _LONDON_: - - PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY. - - ═══ - - 1799. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _CONTENTS_ - - To _ VOLUME _ II. - - ───────── - - _LETTER _ XXVIII. - - _Leave Quebec.—Convenience of travelling page 1 - between that City and Montreal.—Post - Houses.—Calashes.—Drivers.—Canadian - Horses very serviceable.—Salutations - on arriving at different Post - Houses.—Beautiful Prospects from the - Road on the Top of the Banks of the - St. Lawrence.—Female Peasants.—Style - of Farming in Canada.—Considerably - improved of late.—Inactivity of - Canadians in not clearing more - Land.—Their Character contrasted with - that of the People of the - States.—Arrival at Trois - Rivieres.—Description of that Town and - its Vicinity.—Visit to the Convent of - St. Ursule.—Manufactures of Birch - Bark.—Birch Canoes, how formed.—Leave - Trois Rivieres, and reach Montreal._ - - - _LETTER _ XXIX. - - _The Party make the usual Preparations page 19 - for ascending the St. - Lawrence.—Buffalo Skins.—How used by - Travellers.—Difficulty of proceeding - to Lake Ontario otherwise than by - Water.—Rapids above Montreal.— Village - of La Chine.—King’s Stores - there.—Indian Village on the opposite - Side of the River.—Similitude between - French Canadians and Indians in Person - and Disposition of Mind.—Owing to this - the Power of the French over the - Indians.—Summary View of the Indians - in Lower Canada.—The Party embark in a - Bateau at La Chine.—Mode of conducting - Bateaux against a strong - Current.—Great Exertion - requisite—Canadians addicted to - smoking.—How they measure - Distances.—Description of Lake St. - Louis.—Clouds of Insects over Reed - Banks.—Party encamps on l’Isle - Perot.—Passage of Rapids called Les - Cascades—Their tremendous - Appearance.—Description of the Village - of the Hill of Cedars.—Rapids du - Coteau du Lac.—Wonderful Rapidity of - the Current.—Party encamps.—Lake St. - Francis.—Point au Baudet.—L’Isle aux - Raisins.—Island in the River still the - Property of the Indians.—Not - determined yet whether in the British - Territory or that of the States.—Party - encamps.—Storm.—Unpleasant Situation - of the Party.—Relieved.—Continue the - Voyage.—Account of more Rapids.—Canals - and Locks at different Places on the - River St. Lawrence.—Immense Flights of - Pigeons.—Emigration of Squirrels and - Bears.—Oswegatchee River and Fort la - Galette described.—Advantageous - Position of the latter.—Current above - this gentle.—Bateaux sail on all - Night.—Songs of the Canadians.—Good - Ear for Music.—Lake of a Thousand - Isles.—Arrival at Kingston on Lake - Ontario.—Observations on the - Navigation of the St. Lawrence.—The - St. Lawrence compared with the - Mississippi.—A View of the different - Rivers which open a Water - Communication between the Great Lakes - and the Atlantic.—Great Superiority of - the St. Lawrence over all the rest.—Of - the Lake Trade._ - - - _LETTER _ XXX. - - _Description of the Town of page 64 - Kingston.—Formerly called Fort - Cadaraqua.—Extensive Trade carried on - here.—Nature of it.—Inhabitants very - hospitable.—Harbours on Lake - Ontario.—Ships of War on that - Lake.—Merchant Vessels.—Naval - Officers.—Expence of building and - keeping up Vessels very great.—Why.—No - Iron Mines yet opened in the - Country.—Copper may be more easily - procured than Iron.—Found in great - Quantities on the Borders of Lake - Superior.—Embark in a Trading Vessel - on Lake Ontario.—Description of that - Lake.—A Septennial Change in the - Height of the Waters said to be - observable—also a Tide that ebbs and - flows every two Hours.—Observations on - these Phenomena.—Voyage across the - Lake similar to a Sea Voyage.—Come in - Sight of Niagara Fort.—Land at - Mississaguis Point.—Mississaguis - Indians.—One of their Chiefs killed, - in an Affray.—How treated by the - British Government.—Their revengeful - Disposition.—Mississaguis good - Hunters.—How they kill Salmon.—Variety - of Fish in the Lakes and Rivers of - Canada.—Sea Wolves.—Sea - Cows.—Description of the Town of - Niagara or Newark.—The present Seat of - Government.—Scheme of removing it - elsewhere.—Unhealthiness of the Town - of Niagara and adjacent Country.—Navy - Hall.—Fort of Niagara surrendered - pursuant to Treaty.—Description of - it.—Description of the other Forts - surrendered to the People of the - United States.—Shewn not to be so - advantageous to them as was - expected.—Superior Position of the new - British Posts pointed out_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXI. - - _Description of the River and Falls of page 108 - Niagara and the Country bordering upon - the navigable Part of the River below - the Falls_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXII. - - _Description of Fort Chippeway.—Plan in page 135 - meditation to cut a Canal to avoid the - Portage at the Falls of - Niagara.—Departure from - Chippeway.—Intense Heat of the - Weather.—Description of the Country - bordering on Niagara River above the - Falls.—Observations on the Climate of - Upper Canada.—Rattlesnakes common in - Upper Canada.—Fort Erie.—Miserable - Accommodation there.—Squirrel - hunting.—Seneka Indians.—Their - Expertness at the Use of the - Blow-gun.—Description of the - Blow-gun.—Excursion to the Village of - the Senekas.—Whole Nation - absent.—Passage of a dangerous Sand - Bar at the Mouth of Buffalo - Creek.—Sail from Fort Erie.—Driven - back by a Storm.—Anchor under Point - Abineau.—Description of the - Point.—Curious Sand Hills there.—Bear - hunting.—How carried on.—Dogs, what - Sort of, used.—Wind changes.—The - Vessel suffers from the Storm whilst - at Anchor.—Departure from Point - Abineau.—General Description of Lake - Erie.—Anecdote.—Reach the Islands at - the Western End of the Lake.—Anchor - there.—Description of the - Islands.—Serpents of various Kinds - found there.—Rattlesnakes.—Medicinal - Uses made of them.—Fabulous Accounts - of Serpents.—Departure from the - Islands.—Arrival at Malden.—Detroit - River_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXIII. - - _Description of the District of page 170 - Malden.—Establishment of a new British - Post there.—Island of Bois - Blanc.—Difference between the British - and Americans respecting the Right of - Possession.—Block Houses, how - constructed.—Captain E—’s - Farm.—Indians.—Description of Detroit - River, and the Country bordering upon - it.—Town of Detroit.—Head Quarters of - the American Army.—Officers of the - Western Army.—Unsuccessful Attempt of - the Americans to impress upon the - Minds of the Indians an Idea of their - Consequence.—Of the Country round - Detroit.—Doubts concerning our Route - back to Philadelphia.—Determine to go - by Presqu’ Isle.—Departure from - Detroit_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXIV. - - _Presents delivered to the Indians on page 192 - the Part of the British - Government.—Mode of distributing - them.—Reasons why given.—What is the - best Method of conciliating the good - Will of the Indians.—Little Pains - taken by the Americans to keep up a - good Understanding with the - Indians.—Consequences thereof.—War - between the Americans and Indians.—A - brief Account of it.—Peace concluded - by General Wayne.—Not likely to remain - permanent.—Why.—Indian Manner of - making Peace described_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXV. - - _A brief Account of the Persons, page 224 - Manners, Character, Qualifications, - mental and corporeal, of the Indians; - interspersed with Anecdotes_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXVI. - - _Departure from Malden.—Storm on Lake page 296 - Erie.—Driven back amongst the - Islands.—Shipwreck narrowly - avoided.—Voyage across the Lake.—Land - at Fort Erie.—Proceed to Buffalo - Creek.—Engage Indians to go through - the Woods.—Set out on Foot.—Journey - through the Woods.—Description of the - Country beyond Buffalo Creek.—Vast - Plains.—Grand Appearance of the Trees - here.—Indian Dogs.—Arrival at the - Settlements on Genesee River.—First - Settlers.—Their general - Character.—Description of the Country - bordering on Genesee River.—Fevers - common in Autumn.—Proceed on Foot to - Bath_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXVII. - - _Account of Bath.—Of the page 332 - Neighbourhood.—Singular Method taken - to improve - it.—Speculators.—Description of one, - in a Letter from an American - Farmer.—Conhorton Creek.—View of the - Navigation from Bath downwards.—Leave - Bath for Newtown.—Embark in - Canoes.—Stranded in the Night.—Seek - for Shelter in a neighbouring - House.—Difficulty of procuring - Provisions.—Resume our - Voyage.—Lochartsburgh.—Description of - the eastern Branch of the Susquehannah - River.—French Town.—French and - Americans ill suited to each - other.—Wilkes-barré.—Mountains in the - Neighbourhood.—Country thinly settled - towards Philadelphia.—Description of - the Wind-Gap in the Blue - Mountains.—Summary Account of the - Moravian Settlement at - Bethlehem.—Return to Philadelphia_ - - - _LETTER _ XXXVIII. - - _Leave Philadelphia.—Arrive at New page 367 - York.—Visit Long Island.—Dreadful - Havoc by the Yellow Fever.—Dutch - Inhabitants suspicious of - Strangers.—Excellent Farmers.—Number - of Inhabitants.—Culture of - Corn.—Immense Quantities of Grouse and - Deer.—Laws to protect them.—Increase - of the same.—Decrease of Beavers.—New - York agreeable to - Strangers.—Conclusion_ - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - _TRAVELS_, &c. - ────── - - - - - _LETTER _ XXVIII. - -_Leave Quebec.—Convenience of travelling between that City and - Montreal.—Post Houses.—Calashes.—Drivers.—Canadian Horses very - serviceable.—Salutations on arriving at different Post - Houses.—Beautiful Prospects from the Road on the top of the Banks of - the St. Lawrence.—Female Peasants.—Style of Farming in - Canada.—Considerably improved of late.—Inactivity of Canadians in not - clearing more Land.—Their Character contrasted with that of the People - of the States.—Arrival at Trois Rivieres.—Description of that town and - its Vicinity.—Visit to the Convent of St. Ursule.—Manufactures of - Birch Bark.—Birch Canoes, how formed.—Leave Trois Rivieres, and reach - Montreal._ - - - Montreal, August. - -HAVING remained in Quebec and the neighbourhood as long as we could, -consistently with the plan which we had formed of visiting the Falls of -Niagara, and returning again into the States before the commencement of -winter, we set out for Montreal by land. - -In no part of North America can a traveller proceed so commodiously as -along this road between Quebec and Montreal; a regular line of post -houses, at convenient distances from each other, being established upon -it, where calashes or carioles, according to the season, are always kept -in readiness. Each postmaster is obliged to have four calashes, and the -same number of carioles; and besides these, as many more are generally -kept at each stage by persons called aids-de-poste, for which the -postmaster calls when his own happen to be engaged. The postmaster has -the exclusive privilege of furnishing these carriages at every stage, -and, under a penalty, he must have them ready in a quarter of an hour -after they are demanded by a traveller, if it be day-light, and in half -an hour should it be in the night. The drivers are bound to take you on -at the rate of two leagues an hour. The charge for a calash with a -single horse is one shilling Halifax[1] currency per league; no gratuity -is expected by the driver. - -Footnote 1: - - According to Halifax currency, which is the established, currency of - Lower Canada, the dollar passes for five shillings. - - The silver coins current in Canada are dollars, halves, quarters, - eighths, and sixteenths of dollars, pistareens, Spanish coins somewhat - less valuable than quarter dollars, and French and English crowns and - half crowns. Gold coins pass only as bullion by weight. British and - Portugal gold coins are deemed the best; next to them those of Spain, - then those of France. - -[Sidenote: CANADIAN HORSES.] - -The post calashes are very clumsily built, but upon the whole we found -them easy and agreeable carriages; they are certainly far superior to -the American stage waggons, in which, if persons wish to travel with -comfort, they ought always to set out provided with cushions for their -hips and elbows, otherwise they cannot expect but to receive numberless -contusions before they get to the end of their journey. - -The horses in Canada are mostly small and heavy, but extremely -serviceable, as is evident from those employed for the post carriages -being in general fat and very brisk on the road, notwithstanding the -poor fare and ill usage they receive. They are seldom rubbed down; but -as soon as they have performed their journey are turned into a field, -and there left until the next traveller arrives, or till they are wanted -to perform the work of the farm. This is contrary to the regulations of -the post, according to which the horses should be kept in the stable, in -perfect readiness for travellers; however, I do not recollect that we -were at any place detained much beyond the quarter of an hour -prescribed, notwithstanding that the people had frequently to send for -their horses, more than a mile, to the fields where they were employed. -When the horses happened to be at a distance, they were always brought -home in a full gallop, in order to avoid complaints; they were yoked in -an instant, and the driver set off at the rate of nine or ten miles an -hour; a little money, indeed, generally induces them to exceed the -established rate; this, however, does not always answer, but play upon -their vanity and you may make them go on at what rate you please, for -they are the vainest people, perhaps, in the world. Commend their great -dexterity in driving, and the excellence of the Canadian horses, and it -seldom fails to quicken your pace at least two or three miles an hour; -but if you wish to go in a gallop, you need only observe to your -companion, so as to be overheard by the driver, that the Canadian -calashes are the vilest carriages on earth, and so heavy that you -believe the people are afraid the horses would fall down and break their -necks if they attempted to make them go as fast as in other countries; -above all, praise the carriages and drivers of the United States. A few -remarks of this sort at once discompose the tempers of the drivers, and -their passion is constantly vented in lashes on their horses. - -[Sidenote: CANADIAN DRIVERS] - -To hasten the speed of their horses they have three expressions, rising -above each other in a regular climax. The first, “Marche,” is pronounced -in the usual tone of voice; “Marche-donc,” the second, is pronounced -more hastily and louder; if the horse is dull enough not to comprehend -this, then the “Marche-donc,” accompanied with one of Sterne’s magical -words, comes out, in the third place, in a shrill piercing key, and a -smart lash of the whip follows. From the frequent use made by the -drivers of these words, the calashes have received the nick-name of -“marche-doncs.” - -The first post house is nine miles from Quebec, which our drivers, of -their own accord, managed to reach in one hour. No sooner were we in -sight of it, than the postmaster, his wife in her close French cap, and -all the family, came running out to receive us. The foremost driver, a -thin fellow of about six feet high, with a queue bound with eel skins -that reached the whole way down his back, immediately cracked his whip, -and having brought his calash to the door, with a great air he leapt -out, bowed respectfully at a distance to the hostess, then advancing -with his hat off, paid her a few compliments, and kissed both her cheeks -in turn, which she presented to him with no small condescension. Some -minutes are generally spent thus at every post house in mutual -congratulations on meeting, before the people ever think of getting a -fresh carriage ready. - -The road between Quebec and Montreal runs, for the most part, close upon -the banks of the River St. Lawrence, through those beautiful little -towns and villages seen to so much advantage from the water; and as the -traveller passes along, he is entertained with prospects, if possible, -superior to those which strike the attention in sailing down the river. - -For the first thirty or forty miles in the way from Quebec, the views -are in particular extremely grand. The immense River St. Lawrence, more -like a lake confined between ranges of mountains than a river, appears -at one side rolling under your feet, and as you look down upon it from -the top of the lofty banks, the largest merchant vessels scarcely seem -bigger than fishing boats; on the other side, deep mountains, skirted -with forests, present themselves to the view at a distance, whilst, in -the intermediate space, is seen a rich country, beautifully diversified -with whitened cottages and glittering spires, with groves of trees and -cultivated fields, watered by innumerable little streams: groups of the -peasantry, busied as we passed along in getting in the harvest, which -was not quite over, diffused an air of cheerfulness and gaiety over the -scene, and heightened all its charms. - -[Sidenote: FEMALE PEASANTS.] - -The female French peasants are in general, whilst young, very pretty, -and the neat simplicity of their dress in summer, which consists mostly -of a blue or scarlet bodice without sleeves, a petticoat of a different -colour, and a straw hat, makes them appear extremely interesting; like -the Indians, however, they lose their beauty very prematurely, and it is -to be attributed much to the same cause, namely, their laborious life, -and being so much exposed to the air, the indolent men suffering them to -take a very active part in the management of the farms. - -The style of farming amongst the generality of the French Canadians has -hitherto been very slovenly; manure has been but rarely used; the earth -just lightly turned up with a plough, and without any other preparation -the grain sown; more than one half of the fields also have been left -without any fences whatsoever, exposed to the ravages of cattle. The -people are beginning now, however, to be more industrious, and better -farmers, owing to the increased demand for grain for exportation, and to -the advice and encouragement given to them by the English merchants at -Quebec and Montreal, who send agents through the country to the farmers -to buy up all the corn they can spare. The farmers are bound to have -their corn ready by a certain day on the banks of the St. Lawrence, and -bateaux are then sent by the merchants to receive and convey it to the -port where it is to be shipped. - -[Sidenote: CHARACTERS.] - -All the settlements in Lower Canada lie contiguous to the River St. -Lawrence: in no place perhaps do they extend farther back than twelve -miles from it, except along the banks of the River St. Jean, the River -des Prairies, and some other navigable streams falling into the St. -Lawrence. This is owing to the disposition of the French Canadians, who, -like the Germans, are fond of living near each other; nay more, as long -as the farm of the father will admit of a division, a share of it is -given to the sons when they are grown up, and it is only when the farm -is exceedingly small, or the family numerous, that they ever think of -taking up a piece of fresh land from the seignior. In this respect a -wonderful difference appears between their conduct and that of the young -people of the United States, particularly of those of New England, who, -as soon as they are grown up, immediately emigrate, and bury themselves -in the woods, where, perhaps, they are five or six hundred miles distant -from every relation upon earth: yet a spirit of enterprize is not -wanting amongst the Canadians; they eagerly come forward, when called -upon, to traverse the immense lakes in the western regions; they laugh -at the dreadful storms on those prodigious bodies of water; they work -with indefatigable perseverance at the oar and the pole in stemming the -rapid currents of the rivers; nor do they complain, when, on these -expeditions, they happen to be exposed to the inclemency of the seasons, -or to the severest pangs of hunger. The spirit of the Canadian is -excited by vanity; he delights in talking to his friends and relatives -of the excursions he has made to those distant regions; and he glories -in the perils which he has encountered: his vanity would not be -gratified by chopping down trees and tilling the earth; he deems this -therefore merely a secondary pursuit, and he sets about it with -reluctance: self interest, on the contrary, it is that rouses the -citizen of the states into action, and accordingly he hastily emigrates -to a distant part of the country, where he thinks land is in the most -rising state, and where he hopes to be able the soonest to gratify a -passion to which he would readily make a sacrifice of every social tie, -and of all that another man would hold dear. - -On the second day of our journey from Quebec to Montreal we reached -Trois Rivieres, lying nearly midway between the two places. This town is -situated on the banks of the St. Lawrence, close to the mouth of the -River St. Maurice, the largest of upwards of thirty that fall into the -St. Lawrence, on the north-west side alone, between Quebec and Montreal. -This river, before it unites with the St. Lawrence, is divided into -three streams by two large islands, so that to a person sailing past its -mouth it appears as if three distinct rivers disembogued at the one -spot; from hence it is that the town of Trois Rivieres receives its -name. - -The St. Maurice is not navigable for large vessels, neither is it for -sloops more than a few miles above its mouth. In bateaus and canoes, -however, it may be ascended nearly to its source; from whence, if credit -is to be given to the accounts of the Indians, the distance is not very -great to the head of navigable rivers that fall into Hudson’s Bay; at a -future day, therefore, if ever the dreary and inhospitable waste through -which it passes shall put on a different aspect from what it now wears, -and become the abode of human beings instead of wild beasts, the St. -Maurice may be esteemed a river of the first importance in a commercial -point of view; at present there are a few scattered settlements on each -side of it, from its mouth as far as the iron works, which are about -nine miles distant from Trois Rivieres; beyond that the country is but -little known except to Indians. - -[Sidenote: TROIS RIVIERES.] - -Trois Rivieres contains about two hundred and fifty or three hundred -houses, and ranks as the third town, in point of size, in the provinces. -It is one of the oldest settlements in the country, and its founder, it -is said, calculated upon its becoming in a short time a city of great -extent. It has hitherto, however, increased but very slowly in size, and -there is no reason to imagine that it will increase more rapidly in -future, at least until the country bordering upon the St. Maurice -becomes settled, a period that may be very distant. The bank of iron ore -in the neighbourhood, by the manufacture of which it was expected that -the town would suddenly become opulent, is now nearly exhausted; nor do -we find that this bank has ever furnished more ore than was sufficient -to keep one small forge and one small foundry employed at intervals. The -fur trade also, from which so much benefit was expected, is now almost -wholly centered at Quebec and Montreal; it is merely the small quantity -of furs brought down the St. Maurice, and some of the northern rivers -that fall into the St. Lawrence, nearer to the town of Trois Rivieres -than to Quebec or Montreal, that is shipped there. These furs are laden -on board the Montreal ships, which stop opposite to the town as they go -down the river. - -The country in the vicinity of Trois Rivieres has been represented by -some French travellers as wonderfully fertile, and as one of the most -agreeable parts of Canada; but it is totally the reverse. It is a level -barren tract, and so sandy, that in walking along many of the streets of -the town, and the roads in the neighbourhood, you sink into the sand at -every step above the ankles. The sand is of a whitish colour, and very -loose. The air also swarms with musquitoes, a certain proof of the low -damp situation of the place. In none of the other inhabited parts of -Canada, except in the neighbourhood of Lake St. Charles, were we ever -annoyed with these troublesome insects. In Quebec, indeed, and Montreal, -they are scarcely ever seen. - -The streets in Trois Rivieres are narrow, and the houses in general -small and indifferent; many of them are built of wood. There are two -churches in the town, the one an English episcopalian, the other a large -Roman catholic parish church, formerly served by the Recollets, or -Franciscan friars, but the order is now extinct in Trois Rivieres. The -old monastery of the order, a large stone building, at present lies -quite deserted; and many of the houses in the neighbourhood being also -uninhabited, that part of the town wherein it is situated has a very -dull gloomy aspect. The college or monastery of the Jesuits, also a -large old building of stone in the same neighbourhood, has been -converted into a gaol. - -[Sidenote: ST. URSULE.] - -The only religious order at present existing in the town is that of St. -Ursule, the sisterhood of which is as numerous as the convent will well -permit. It was founded by M. de St. Vallier, bishop of Quebec, in the -year 1677. It is a spacious building, situated near that formerly -belonging to the Recollets; and annexed to it, under the same roof, -there is an hospital attended by the nuns. We were introduced to the -chaplain of the order, a poor French emigrant curé, an interesting and -apparently a most amiable man, and under his guidance we received -permission to visit the convent. - -The first part we entered was the chapel, the doors of which open to the -street under a porch. It is very lofty, but the area of it is small. The -altar, which is grand, and richly ornamented, stands nearly opposite to -the entrance, and on each side of it is a lattice, the one communicating -with an apartment allotted for sick nuns, the other with the cœur of the -chapel. On ringing a small bell, a curtain at the inside of this last -lattice was withdrawn, and an apartment discovered, somewhat larger than -the chapel, surrounded with pews, and furnished with an altar, at the -foot of which sat two of the sisterhood, with books in their hands, at -their meditations. The fair Ursuline, who came to the lattice, seemed to -be one of those unfortunate females that had at last begun to feel all -the horrors of confinement, and to lament the rashness of that vow which -had secluded her for ever from the world, and from the participation of -those innocent pleasures, which, for the best and wisest of purposes, -the beneficent Ruler of the universe meant that his creatures should -enjoy. As she withdrew the curtain, she cast a momentary glance through -the grating, that imparted more than could be expressed by the most -eloquent words; then retiring in silence, seated herself on a bench in a -distant part of the cœur. The melancholy and sorrow pourtrayed in the -features of her lovely countenance interested the heart in her behalf, -and it was impossible to behold her without partaking of that dejection -which hung over her soul, and without deprecating at the same time the -cruelty of the custom which allows, and the mistaken zeal of a religion -that encourages, an artless and inexperienced young creature to renounce -a world, of which she was destined, perhaps, to be a happy and useful -member, for an unprofitable life of solitude, and unremitted penance for -sins never committed! - -[Sidenote: URSULINES.] - -The hospital, which lies contiguous to the chapel, consists of two large -apartments, wherein are about twelve or fourteen beds. The apartments -are airy, and the beds neat and well appointed. Each bed is dedicated to -a particular saint, and over the foot of it is an invocation to the -tutelary saint, in large characters, as, “St. Jaques priez pour moi.” -“St. Jean priez pour moi,” &c. The patients are attended by a certain -number of the sisterhood appointed for that purpose. An old priest, who -appeared to be near his death, was the only person in the hospital when -we passed through it; he was seated in an easy chair by the bed-side, -and surrounded by a number of the sisters, who paid him the most -assiduous attention. - -The dress of the Ursulines consists of a black stuff gown; a -handkerchief of white linen tied by a running string close round the -throat, and hanging down over the breast and shoulders, being rounded at -the corners; a head-piece of white linen, which covers half the -forehead, the temples, and ears, and is fastened to the handkerchief; a -black gauze veil, which conceals half the face only when down, and flows -loosely over the shoulders; and a large plain silver cross suspended -from the breast. The dress is very unbecoming, the hair being totally -concealed, and the shape of the face completely disguised by the close -white head-piece. - -From the hospital we were conduced through a long passage to an -agreeable light parlour, the windows of which opened into the gardens of -the convent. This was the apartment of the “Superieure,” who soon made -her appearance, accompanied by a number of the lay sisters. The -conversation of the old lady and her protegées was lively and agreeable; -a thousand questions were asked us respecting the former part of our -tour, and our future destination; and they seemed by no means displeased -at having a few strangers of a different sex from their own within the -walls of the convent. Many apologies were made, because they could not -take us through the “interieure,” as there was an ordinance against -admitting any visiters into it without leave from the bishop; they -regretted exceedingly that we had not obtained this leave before we left -Quebec. After some time was spent in conversation, a great variety of -fancy works, the fabrication of the sisterhood, was brought down for our -inspection, some of which it is always expected that strangers will -purchase, for the order is but poor. We selected a few of the articles -which appeared most curious, and having received them packed up in the -neatest manner in little boxes kept for the purpose, and promised to -preserve them in memory of the fair Ursulines, that handed them to us, -we bade adieu to the superieure, and returned to our lodgings. - -[Sidenote: BARK CANOES.] - -It is for their very curious bark work that the sisters of this convent -are particularly distinguished. The bark of the birch tree is what they -use, and with it they make pocket-books, work-baskets, dressing-boxes, -&c. &c. which they embroider with elk hair died of the most brilliant -colours. They also make models of the Indian canoes, and various warlike -implements used by the Indians. - -Nearly all the birch bark canoes in use on the St. Lawrence and Utawa -Rivers, and on the nearer lakes, are manufactured at Three Rivers, and -in the neighbourhood, by Indians. The birch tree is found in great -plenty near the town; but it is from the more northern part of the -country, where the tree attains a very large size, that the principal -part of the bark is procured that canoes are made with. The bark -resembles in some degree that of the cork tree, but it is of a closer -grain, and also much more pliable, for it admits of being rolled up the -same as a piece of cloth. The Indians of this part of the country always -carry large rolls of it in their canoes when they go on a hunting party, -for the purpose of making temporary huts. The bark is spread on small -poles over their heads, and fastened with strips of elm bark, which is -remarkably tough, to stakes, so as to form walls on the sides. - -The canoes are made with birch bark, as follows: The ribs, consisting of -thick tough rods, are first bound together; then the birch bark is sowed -on in as large pieces as possible, and a thick coat of pitch is laid -over the seams between the different pieces. To prevent the bark being -injured by the cargo, and to make the canoe stronger, its inside is -lined with two layers of thin pieces of pine, laid in a contrary -direction to each other. A canoe made in this manner is so light that -two men could easily carry one on their shoulders capable of containing -six people. - -The birch canoes made at Three Rivers are put together with the utmost -neatness, and on the water they appear very beautiful. They are made -from a size sufficient to hold one man only, to a size large enough for -upwards of twenty. It is wonderful to see with what velocity a few -skilful men with paddles can take on of these canoes of a size suitable -to their number. In a few minutes they would leave the best moulded keel -boat, conducted by a similar number of men with oars, far behind. None -but experienced persons ought ever to attempt to navigate birch canoes, -for they are so light that they are apt to be overset by the least -improper movement of the persons in them. - -[Sidenote: VILLAGES.] - -The day after that on which we quitted Trois Rivieres, we reached -Montreal once more. The villages between the two places are very -numerous, and the face of the country around them is pleasing, so that -the eye of the traveller is constantly entertained as he passes on; but -there is nothing in this part of the country particularly deserving of -mention. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXIX. - -_The Party make the usual Preparations for ascending the St. - Lawrence.—Buffalo Skins.—How used by Travellers.—Difficulty of - proceeding to Lake Ontario otherwise than by Water.—Rapids above - Montreal.—Village of La Chine.—King’s Stores there.—Indian Village on - the opposite side of the River.—Similitude between French Canadians - and Indians in Person and Disposition of Mind.—Owing to this the Power - of the French over the Indians.—Summary View of the Indians in Lower - Canada.—The Party embark in a Bateau at La Chine.—Mode of conducing - Bateaux against a strong Current.—Great Exertion requisite.—Canadians - addicted to smoking.—How they measure Distances.—Description of Lake - St. Louis.—Clouds of Insects over Reed Banks.—Party encamps on l’Isle - Perot.—Passage of Rapids called Les Cascades.—Their tremendous - Appearance.—Description of the Village of the Hill of Cedars.—Rapids - du Coteau du Lac.—Wonderful Rapidity of the Current.—Party - encamps.—Lake St. Francis.—Point au Baudet.—L’Isle aux - Raisins.—Islands in the River still the Property of the Indians.—Not - determined yet whether in the British Territory or that of the - States.—Party encamps.—Storm.—Unpleasant Situation of the - Party.—Relieved.—Continue the Voyage.—Account of more Rapids.—Canals - and Locks at different Places on the River St. Lawrence.—Immense - Flights of Pigeons.—Emigration of Squirrels and Bears.—Oswegatchee - River and Fort la Galette described.—Advantageous Position of the - latter.—Current above this gentle.—Bateaux sail on all Night.—Songs of - the Canadians.—Good Ear for Music.—Lake of a Thousand Isles.—Arrival - at Kingston on Lake Ontario.—Observations on the Navigation of_ _the - St. Lawrence.—The St. Lawrence compared with the Mississippi.—A View - of the different Rivers which open a Water Communication between the - Great Lakes and the Atlantic.—Great Superiority of the St. Lawrence - over all the rest.—Of the Lake Trade._ - - - Kingston, September. - -[Sidenote: MONTREAL AND KINGSTON.] - - -ON arriving at Montreal, our first concern was to provide a large -travelling tent, and some camp equipage, buffalo skins[2], a store of -dried provisions, kegs of brandy and wine, &c. &c. and, in short, to -make every usual and necessary preparation for proceeding up the River -St. Lawrence. A few days afterwards, we took our passage for Kingston, -on board a bateau, which, together with twelve others, the commissary -was sending thither for the purpose of bringing down to Quebec the -cannon and ordnance stores that had been taken from the different -military posts on the lakes, preparatory to their being delivered up to -the United States. - -Footnote 2: - - In the western parts of Lower Canada, and throughout Upper Canada, - where it is customary for travellers to carry their own bedding with - them, these skins are very generally made use of for the purpose of - sleeping upon. For upwards of two months we scarcely ever had any - other bed than one of the skins spread on the floor and a blanket to - each person. The skins are dressed by the Indians with the hair on, - and they are rendered by a certain process as pliable as cloth. When - the buffalo is killed in the beginning of the winter, at which time he - is fenced against the cold, the hair resembles very much that of a - black bear; it is then long, straight, and of a blackish colour; but - when the animal is killed in the summer, the hair is short and curly, - and of a light brown colour, owing to its being scorched by the rays - of the sun. - -On the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, except for about fifty miles -or thereabouts, are roads, and also scattered settlements, at no great -distance from each other, the whole way between Montreal and Kingston, -which is situated at the eastern extremity of Lake Ontario; but no one -ever thinks of going thither by land, on account of the numberless -inconveniencies such a journey would be attended with; indeed, the -difficulty of getting horses across the many deep and rapid rivers -falling into the St. Lawrence, would in itself be sufficient to deter -travellers from proceeding by land to Kingston, supposing even that -there were none other to encounter. A water conveyance is by far the -most eligible, and except only between Quebec and Montreal, it is the -conveyance universally made use of in every part of the country, that -is, when people wish merely to follow the course of the rivers, in the -neighbourhood of which alone there are any settlements. - -The rapids in the St. Lawrence are so very strong just above Montreal, -that the bateaux are never laden at the town, but suffered to proceed -empty as far as the village of La Chine, which stands on the island of -Montreal, about nine miles higher up. The goods are sent, from Montreal, -thither in carts. - -[Sidenote: LA CHINE.] - -La Chine is built on a fine gravelly beach, at the head of a little bay -at the lower end of Lake St. Louis, which is a broad part of the river -St. Lawrence. A smart current sets down the lake, and owing to it there -is generally a considerable curl on the surface of the water, even close -to the shore, which, with the appearance of the boats and canoes upon it -in motion, gives the place a very lively air. The situation of the -village is indeed extremely agreeable, and from some of the storehouses -there are most charming views of the lake, and of the country at the -opposite side of it. There are very extensive storehouses belonging to -the King, and also to the merchants of Montreal. In the former the -presents for the Indians are deposited as soon as they arrive from -England; and prior to their being sent up the country they are inspected -by the commanding officer of the garrison of Montreal and a committee of -merchants, who are bound to make a faithful report to government, -whether the presents are agreeable to the contract, and as good as could -be obtained for the price that is paid for them. - -In sight of La Chine, on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, stands -the village of the Cachenonaga Indians, whom I have already had occasion -to mention. The village contains about fifty log houses and a Roman -catholic church, built in the Canadian style, and ornamented within with -pictures, lamps, &c. in such a manner as to attract the eye as forcibly -as possible. The outward shew, and numerous ceremonies of the Roman -catholic religion, are particularly suited to the capacities of the -Indians, and as but very little restraint is imposed upon them by the -missionaries, more of them become converts to that religion than to any -other. The worship of the Holy Virgin meets in a very peculiar manner -with the approbation of the squaws, and they sing her praises with the -most profound devotion. - -In this and all the other Indian villages situated in the improved parts -of Lower Canada, a great mixture of the blood of whites with that of the -aborigines is observable in the persons of the inhabitants; there are -also considerable numbers of the French Canadians living in these -villages, who have married Indian wives, and have been adopted into the -different nations with whom they reside. Many of the French Canadians -bear such a close resemblance to the Indians, owing to their dark -complexions, black eyes, and long black hair, that when attired in the -same habits it is only a person intimately acquainted with the features -of the Indians that could distinguish the one race of men from the -other. The dispositions of the two people also accord together in a very -striking manner; both are averse to a settled life, and to regular -habits of industry; both are fond of roving about, and procuring -sustenance by hunting rather than by cultivating the earth; nature seems -to have implanted in their hearts a reciprocal affection for each other; -they associate together, and live on the most amicable terms; and to -this one circumstance more than to any other cause is to be attributed -that wonderful ascendancy which the French were ever known to have over -the Indians, whilst they had possession of Canada. It is very remarkable -indeed, that in the upper country, notwithstanding that presents to such -a very large amount are distributed amongst the Indians through the -hands of the English inhabitants, and that their natural rights are as -much respected by them as they possibly can be, yet an Indian, even at -this day, will always go to the house of a poor French farmer in -preference to that of an Englishman. - -[Sidenote: CACHENONAGA INDIANS.] - -The numbers of the Cachenonaga nation, in the village near La Chine, are -estimated at one hundred and fifty persons. The other Indian villages, -in the civilized parts of Lower Canada, are, one of the Canasadogas, -situated near the mouth of the Utawas River; one of the Little -Algonquins, near Trois Rivieres; one of the Aberachies, near Trois -Rivieres, at the opposite side of the river; and one of the Hurons, near -Quebec; but none of these villages are as large as that of the -Cachenonagas. The numbers of the Indians in the lower province have -diminished very fast of late years, as they have done in every other -part of the continent, where those of the white inhabitants have -increased; in the whole lower province, at present, it is thought that -there are not more than twelve hundred of them. Many of these Indians -are continually loitering about the large towns, in expectation of -getting spirits or bread, which they are extremely fond of, from the -inhabitants. No less than two hundred, that had come a great distance in -canoes, from the lower parts of the river St. Lawrence, were encamped on -Point Levi when we visited Quebec. These Indians, squalid and filthy in -the extreme, and going about the streets every day in large parties, -begging, presented a most melancholy picture of human nature; and -indeed, if a traveller never saw any of the North American Indians, but -the most decent of those who are in the habit of frequenting the large -towns of Lower Canada, he would not be led to entertain an opinion -greatly in their favour. The farther you ascend up the country, and -consequently the nearer you see the Indians to what they were in their -original state, before their manners were corrupted by intercourse with -the whites, the more do you find in their character and conduct -deserving of admiration. - -[Sidenote: BRIGADE OF BATEAUX.] - -It was on the 28th day of August that we reached La Chine; the next day -the “brigade,” as it was called, of bateaux was ready, and in the -afternoon we set out on our voyage. Three men are found sufficient to -conduct an empty bateau of about two tons burthen up the St. Lawrence, -but if the bateau be laden more are generally allowed. They ascend the -stream by means of poles, oars, and sails. Where the current is very -strong, they make use of the former, keeping as close as possible to the -shore, in order to avoid the current, and to have the advantage of -shallow water to pole in. The men set their poles altogether at the same -moment, and all work at the same side of the bateau; the steersman, -however, shifts his pole occasionally from side to side, in order to -keep the vessel in an even direction. The poles commonly used are about -eight feet in length, extremely light, and headed with iron. On coming -to a deep bay or inlet, the men abandon the poles, take to their oars, -and strike if possible directly across the mouth of the bay; but in many -places the current proves so strong that it is absolutely impossible to -stem it by means of oars, and they are obliged to pole entirely round -the bays. Whenever the wind is favourable they set their sail; but it is -only at the upper end of the river, beyond the rapids, or on the lakes -or broad parts of it, where the current is not swift, that the sail by -itself is sufficient to impel them forward. - -The exertion it requires to counteract the force of the stream by means -of poles and oars is so great, that the men are obliged to stop very -frequently to take breath. The places at which they stop are regularly -ascertained; some of them, where the current is very rapid, are not more -than half a mile distant one from the other; others one or two, but none -of them more than four miles apart. Each of these places the boatmen, -who are almost all French Canadians, denominate “une pipe,” because they -are allowed to stop at it and fill their pipes. A French Canadian is -scarcely ever without a pipe in his mouth, whether working at the oar or -plough; whether on foot, or on horseback; indeed, so much addicted are -the people to smoking, that by the burning of the tobacco in their pipes -they commonly ascertain the distance from one place to another. Such a -place, they say, is three pipes off, that is, it is so far off that you -may smoke three pipes full of tobacco whilst you go thither. A pipe, in -the most general acceptation of the word, seemed to be about three -quarters of an English mile. - -[Sidenote: LAKE ST. LOUIS.] - -Lake St. Louis, commencing, or rather terminating, at La Chine, for that -village stands at the lower end of it, is about twelve miles in length -and four in breadth. At its uppermost extremity it receives a large -branch of the Utawas River, and also the south-west branch of the River -St. Lawrence, which by some geographers is called the River Cadaraqui, -and by others the River Iroquois; but in the country, generally -speaking, the whole of that river, running from Lake Ontario to the -Gulph of St. Lawrence, goes simply under the name of the St. Lawrence. - -At the upper end of Lake St. Louis the water is very shallow, owing to -the banks of mud and sand washed up by the two rivers. These very -extensive banks, are entirely covered with reeds, so that when a vessel -sails over them she appears at a little distance to be absolutely -sailing over dry land. As we passed along this part of the lake we were -enveloped with clouds of little insects, different from any I ever saw -before or afterwards in the country; but they are common, it is said, on -various parts of the River St. Lawrence. Their size was somewhat larger -than that of the gnat; their colour a pure white; and so delicately were -they formed, that by the slightest touch they were destroyed and reduced -to powder. They were particularly attracted by any white object, and -having once alighted were not to be driven away but by force. The leaves -of a book, which I happened to have in my hand, were in a few seconds so -thickly covered by them that it was impossible to discern a single -letter, and no sooner was one swarm of them brushed off than a fresh one -immediately alighted. These insects have very broad wings in proportion -to their size, and fly heavily, so that it is only when the air is -remarkably calm that they can venture to make their appearance. - -[Sidenote: ENCAMPMENT.] - -About sun-set on this, the first evening of our voyage, we reached the -island of Perot, situated at the mouth of the Utawas River. This island -is about fourteen miles in circumference; its soil is fertile, and it is -well cultivated. There are two considerable villages near its center, -but towards Point St. Claire, at its lower extremity, the settlements -are but very few. We landed at the point, and pitched our tent in a -meadow which stood bordering upon the water. Here the bateaux were drawn -up, and having been properly secured, the different crews, amounting in -all to upwards of fifty men, divided themselves into small parties, and -kindled fires along the shore, in order to cook their provisions for the -succeeding day, and to keep themselves warm during the night. These men, -who are engaged in conducting bateaux in Canada, are, as I have before -observed, a very hardy race: when the weather is fair, they sleep on the -grass at night, without any other covering than a short blanket, -scarcely reaching down to their knees; during wet weather a sail or a -blanket to the weather side, spread on poles stuck into the ground in an -inclined direction, is all the shelter they deem necessary. On setting -out each man is furnished with a certain allowance of salted pork, -biscuit, pease, and brandy; the pease and biscuit they boil with some of -the pork into porridge, and a large vessel full of it, is generally kept -at the head of the bateau, for the use of the crew when they stop in the -course of the day. This porridge, or else cold fat salted pork, with -cucumbers, constitutes the principal part of their food. The cucumber is -a fruit that the lower classes of the French Canadians are extremely -fond of; they use it however in a very indifferent state, as they never -pull it until it has attained a large size, and is become yellow and -seedy. Cucumbers thus mellow, chopped into small pieces without being -peeled, and afterwards mixed with sour cream, is one of their favourite -dishes. - -At day-break on the second morning of our voyage, we quitted the island -of Perot, and crossed the Utawas River, in order to gain the mouth of -the south-west branch of the St. Lawrence. A tremendous scene is here -presented to the view; each river comes rushing down into the lake, over -immense rocks, with an impetuosity which, seemingly, nothing can resist. -The waves are as high as what are commonly met with in the British -Channel during a smart breeze, and the breakers so numerous and -dangerous, that one would imagine a bateau could not possibly live in -the midst of them; and indeed, unless it were navigated by men -intimately acquainted with the place, and very expert at the same time, -there would be evident danger of its being filled with water. Several -times, as we passed through the breakers, the water dashed over the -sides of our bateau. Tremendous and dangerous, however, as the rapids -are at this spot, they are much less so than some of those met with -higher up the River St. Lawrence. - -The water of the Utawas River is remarkably clear, and of a bright -greenish colour; that of the St. Lawrence, on the contrary, is muddy, -owing to its passing over deep beds of marl for some miles before it -enters into Lake St. Louis. For a considerable way down the lake the -waters of the two rivers may be plainly distinguished from each other. - -[Sidenote: THE RAPIDS.] - -The Rapids immediately at the mouth of the south-west branch of the St. -Lawrence are called “Les Cascades,” or, “Le Saut de Trou.” In laden -bateaux it is no arduous task to shoot down them, but it is impossible -to mount against the stream even in such as are empty. In order to avoid -the laborious task therefore of carrying them along the shore past the -rapids, as used formerly to be done, a canal with a double lock has been -made here at a great expence. This canal extends but a very little way, -not more than fifty yards perhaps. Beyond this there is a succession of -other rapids, the first of which, called “Le Saut de Buisson” on account -of the closeness of the woods along the shores on each side, is so -strong, that in order to pass it, it is necessary to lighten the bateaux -very considerably. If the cargoes are large, they are wholly taken out -at once, and sent forward in carts to the distance of a mile and a half, -past all the rapids. The men are always obliged here to get out of the -bateaux, and haul them along with ropes, it being wholly impracticable -to counteract the force of the current by means of poles alone. - -The passage of these rapids is so very tedious, that we here quitted the -bateaux, took our guns in hand, and proceeded on foot to “Le Coteau des -Cedres,” the Hill of Cedars, about nine miles higher up the river. In -going thither you soon lose sight of the few straggling houses at the -cascades, and enter the recesses of a remarkably thick wood, whose -solemn gloom, together with the loud roaring of the waters at a -distance, and the wild appearance of every object around you, inspire -the mind with a sort of pleasing horror. As you approach “Le Coteau des -Cedres,” the country assumes a softer aspect; cultivated fields and neat -cottages once more appear in view, and the river, instead of being -agitated by tremendous rapids, is here seen gliding on with an even -current between its lofty banks. - -The village of the Hill of Cedars contains about thirty houses, amongst -which we were agreeably surprised to find a remarkably neat and -excellent tavern, kept by an English woman. We remained here until three -in the afternoon, when we again set off on foot, partly for the pleasure -of beholding, from the top of the steep banks, the many noble and -beautiful prospects laid open before us, and partly for the pleasure of -stopping occasionally to chat with the lively French girls, that, during -this delicious season of the year, sat spinning in groups at the doors -of the cottages. About five o’clock the bateaux overtook us; but after -proceeding in them for about two miles, we again landed to escape the -tedious process of ascending fresh rapids. These are called the rapids -“du Coteau du Lac St. François;” they are several miles in length, and -though not the most dangerous, are yet the most tremendous to appearance -of any in the whole river, the white breakers being distinctly visible -at the distance of four miles; some travellers have gone so far as to -represent them as even more terrible to the beholder than the falls of -Niagara, but this is a very exaggerated account. Boats are here carried -down with the stream at the rate of fourteen or fifteen miles an hour, -according to the best information I could procure on the subject, though -the Canadian boatmen and others declare that they are carried down at -the rate of twenty miles in the hour. At some of the rapids, higher up -the river, the current is considerably swifter than at this place. - -[Sidenote: THE RAPIDS.] - -In descending these rapids they pass through the breakers in the middle -of the river, but in going up they keep close in to the shore, on the -north-west side, and being here sheltered by a numerous cluster of -islands, which break the force of the current, and having the benefit of -a short canal and locks, they get past the rapids with less difficulty -even than they pass the cascades. One of the islands here, farther -removed from the shore than the rest, is called Prisoners Island, having -been allotted for the residence of some of the American prisoners during -the last war. There were some buildings on the island at that time, but -it has been quite deserted since, on account of the great difficulty of -getting to it through the strong rapids. During the war, an officer, who -had compelled some of the Canadians, notwithstanding their -remonstrances, to make an attempt to reach the island at an improper -season, perished, with a great number of men, in going thither. Of the -whole party one alone escaped with his life. The St. Lawrence is here -about two miles wide. - -This evening, the second of our voyage, the bateaux were drawn up for -the night at the bottom of “Le Coteau du Lac,” the Hill of the Lake, and -we pitched our tent on the margin of a wood, at a little distance from -the river. The next morning we proceeded again on foot for about two -miles, when we came to a tavern, where we waited the arrival of the -bateaux. The people of this house were English. From hence upwards there -are but few French to be met with. - -[Sidenote: LAKE ST. FRANCOIS.] - -We were detained here nearly half the day in endeavouring to procure a -fresh man, one of the conductor’s crew having been seized with an -intermittent fever. At last a man from a neighbouring settlement made -his appearance, and we proceeded on our voyage. We now entered Lake St. -François, which is about twenty-five miles in length, and five in -breadth; but the wind being unfavourable, we were prevented from -proceeding farther upon it than Point au Baudet, at which place the -boundary line commences, that separates the upper from the lower -province. When the wind comes from the south-west, the immense body of -water in the lake is impelled, directly towards this point, and a surge -breaks in upon the beach, as tremendous as is seen on the sea-shore. -There was one solitary house here, which proved to be a tavern, and -afforded us a well-drest supper of venison, and decent accommodation for -the night. - -The next day the wind was not more favourable; but as it was -considerably abated, we were enabled to prosecute our voyage, coasting -along the shores of the lake. This was a most laborious and tedious -business, on account of the numerous bays and inlets, which the wind was -not sufficiently abated to suffer us to cross at their mouths: -notwithstanding all the difficulties, however, we had to contend with, -we advanced nearly twenty-five miles in the course of the day. - -At the head of Lake St. François, we landed on a small island, called -“Isle aux Raisins,” on account of the number of wild vines growing upon -it. The bateaux men gathered great quantities of the grapes, wherewith -the trees were loaded, and also an abundance of plumbs, which they -devoured with great avidity. Neither of the fruits, however, were very -tempting to persons whose palates had been accustomed to the taste of -garden fruits. The grapes were sour, and not larger than peas; and as -for the plumbs, though much larger in size, yet their taste did not -differ materially from that of sloes. - -[Sidenote: ISLANDS.] - -Beyond L’Isle aux Raisins, in the narrow part of the river, there are -several other islands, the largest of which called L’isle St. Regis, is -near ten miles in length. All these islands still continue in the -possession of the Indians, and many of them, being situated as nearly as -possible in the middle of the river, which here divides the British -territory from that of the United States, it yet remains to be -determined of what territory they form a part. It is sincerely to be -desired that this matter may be adjusted amicably in due time. A serious -altercation has already taken place about an island similarly situated -in Detroit River, that will be more particularly mentioned hereafter. -The Indians not only retain possession of these different islands, but -likewise of the whole of the south-east shore, of the St. Lawrence, -situated within the bounds of the United States; they likewise have -considerable strips of land on the opposite shore, within the British -dominions, bordering upon the river; these they have reserved to -themselves for hunting. The Iroquois Indians have a village upon the -Isle of St. Regis, and another also upon the main land, on the -south-east shore; as we passed it, several of the inhabitants put off in -canoes, and exchanged unripe heads[3] of Indian corn with the men for -bread; they also brought with them some very fine wild ducks and fish, -which they disposed of to us on very moderate terms. - -Footnote 3: - - The heads of Indian corn, before they become hard, are esteemed a - great delicacy; the most approved method of dressing, is to parboil, - and afterwards roast them. - -On the fourth night of our voyage we encamped, as usual, on the main -land opposite the island of St. Regis; and the excellent viands we had -procured from the Indians having been cooked, we set down to supper -before a large fire, materials for which are never wanting in this woody -country. The night was uncommonly serene, and we were induced to remain -until a late hour in front of our tent, talking of the various -occurrences in the course of the day; but we had scarcely retired to -rest, when the sky became overcast, a dreadful storm arose, and by -day-break the next morning we found ourselves, and every thing belonging -to us, drenched with rain. Our situation now was by no means agreeable; -torrents still came pouring down; neither our tent nor the woods -afforded us any shelter, and the wind being very strong, and as adverse -as it could blow, there was no prospect of our being enabled speedily to -get into better quarters. In this state we had remained for a -considerable time, when one of the party, who had been rambling about in -order to discover what sort of a neighbourhood we were in, returned with -the pleasing intelligence that there was a house at no great distance, -and that the owner had politely invited us to it. It was the house of an -old provincial officer, who had received a grant of land in this part of -the country for his past services. We gladly proceeded to it, and met -with a most cordial welcome from the captain and his fair daughters, who -had provided a plenteous breakfast, and spared no pains to make their -habitation, during our stay, as pleasing to us as possible. We felt -great satisfaction at the idea, that it would be in our power to spend -the remainder of the day with these worthy and hospitable people; but -alas, we had all formed an erroneous opinion of the weather; the wind -suddenly veered about; the sun broke through the thick clouds; the -conductor gave the parting order; and in a few minutes we found -ourselves once more seated in our bateau. - -[Sidenote: THE LONG FALL.] - -From hence upwards, for the distance of forty miles, the current of the -river is extremely strong, and numberless rapids are to be encountered, -which, though not so tremendous to appearance as those at the Cascades, -and “Le Coteau du Lac,” are yet both more dangerous and more difficult -to pass. The great danger, however, consists in going down them; it -arises from the shallowness of the water and the great number of sharp -rocks, in the midst of which the vessels are hurried along with such -impetuosity, that if they unfortunately get into a wrong channel, -nothing can save them from being dashed to pieces; but so intimately are -the people usually employed on this river acquainted with the different -channels, that an accident of the sort is scarcely ever heard of. “Le -Long Saut,” the Long Fall or Rapid, situated about thirty miles above -Lake St. Francis, is the most dangerous of any one in the river, and so -difficult a matter is it to pass it, that it requires no less than six -men on shore to haul a single bateau against the current. There is a -third canal with locks at this place, in order to avoid a point, which -it would be wholly impracticable to weather in the ordinary way. These -different canals and locks have been made at the expence of government, -and the profits arising from the tolls paid by every bateau that passes -through them are placed in the public treasury. At these rapids, and at -several of the others, there are very extensive flour and saw mills. - -On the fifth night we arrived at a small farm house, at the top of the -“Long Saut,” wet from head to foot, in consequence of our having been -obliged to walk past the rapids through woods and bushes still dripping -after the heavy rain that had fallen in the morning. The woods in this -neighbourhood are far more majestic than on any other part of the St. -Lawrence; the pines in particular are uncommonly tall, and seem to wave -their tops in the very clouds. In Canada, pines grow on the richest -soils; but in the United States they grow mostly on poor ground: a tract -of land covered solely with pines is there generally denominated “a pine -barren,” on account of its great poverty. - -[Sidenote: WILD PIGEONS.] - -During a considerable part of the next day, we also proceeded on foot, -in order to escape the tedious passage up the “Rapide Plat,” and some of -the other dangerous rapids in this part of the river. As we passed -along, we had excellent diversion in shooting pigeons, several large -flights of which we met with in the woods. The wild pigeons of Canada -are not unlike the common English wood pigeons, except that they are of -a much smaller size: their flesh is very well flavoured. During -particular years, these birds come down from the northern regions in -flights that it is marvellous to tell of. A gentleman of the town of -Niagara assured me, that once as he was embarking there on board ship -for Toronto, a flight of them was observed coming from that quarter; -that as he sailed over Lake Ontario to Toronto, forty miles distant from -Niagara, pigeons were seen flying over head the whole way in a contrary -direction to that in which the ship proceeded; and that on arriving at -the place of his destination, the birds were still observed coming down -from the north in as large bodies as had been noticed at any one time -during the whole voyage; supposing, therefore, that the pigeons moved no -faster than the vessel, the flight, according to this gentleman’s -account, must at least have extended eighty miles. Many persons may -think this story surpassing belief; for my own part, however, I do not -hesitate to give credit to it, knowing, as I do, the respectability of -the gentleman who related it, and the accuracy of his observation. When -these birds appear in such great numbers, they often light on the -borders of rivers and lakes, and in the neighbourhood of farm houses, at -which time they are so unwary that a man with a short stick might easily -knock them down by hundreds. It is not oftener than once in seven or -eight years, perhaps, that such large flocks of these birds are seen in -the country. The years in which they appear are denominated “pigeon -years.” - -There are also “bear years” and “squirrel years.” This was both a bear -and a squirrel year. The former, like the pigeons, came down from the -northern regions, and were most numerous in the neighbourhood of lakes -Ontario and Erie, and along the upper parts of the River St. Lawrence. -On arriving at the borders of these lakes, or of the river, if the -opposite shore was in sight, they generally took to the water, and -endeavoured to reach it by swimming. Prodigious numbers of them were -killed in crossing the St. Lawrence by the Indians, who had hunting -encampments, at short distances from each other, the whole way along the -banks of the river, from the island of St. Regis to Lake Ontario. One -bear, of a very large size, boldly entered the river in the face of our -bateaux, and was killed by some of our men whilst swimming from the main -land to one of the islands. In the woods it is very rare that bears will -venture to attack a man; but several instances that had recently -occurred were mentioned to us, where they had attacked a single man in a -canoe whilst swimming, and so very strong are they in the water, that -the men thus set upon, being unarmed, escape narrowly with their lives. - -[Sidenote: BEARS AND SQUIRRELS.] - -The squirrels, this year, contrary to the bears, migrated from the -south, from the territory of the United States. Like the bears, they -took to the water on arriving at it, but as if conscious of their -inability to cross a very wide piece of water, they bent their course -towards Niagara River, above the falls, and at its narrowest and most -tranquil part crossed over into the British territory. It was -calculated, that upwards of fifty thousand of them crossed the river in -the course of two or three days, and such great depredations did they -commit on arriving at the settlements on the opposite side, that in one -part of the country the farmers deemed themselves very fortunate where -they got in as much as one third of their crops of corn. These squirrels -were all of the black kind, said to be peculiar to the continent of -America; they are in shape similar to the common grey squirrel, and -weigh from about one to two pounds and a half each. Some writers have -asserted, that these animals cannot swim, but that when they come to a -river, in migrating, each one provides itself with a piece of wood or -bark, upon which, when a favourable wind offers, they embark, spread -their bushy tails to catch the wind, and are thus wafted over to the -opposite side. Whether these animals do or do not cross in this manner -sometimes, I cannot take upon me to say; but I can safely affirm, that -they do not always cross so, as I have frequently shot them in the water -whilst swimming: no animals swim better, and when pursued, I have seen -them eagerly take to the water. Whilst swimming, their tail is useful to -them by way of rudder, and they use it with great dexterity; owing to -its being so light and bushy, the greater part of it floats upon the -water, and thus helps to support the animal. The migration of any of -these animals in such large numbers is said to be an infallible sign of -a severe winter[4]. - -Footnote 4: - - In the present instance it certainly was so, for the ensuing winter - proved to be the severest that had been known in North America for - several years. - -On the sixth evening of our voyage we stopped nearly opposite to Point -aux Iroquois, so named from a French family having been cruelly -massacred there by the Iroquois Indians in the early ages of the colony. -The ground being still extremely wet here, in consequence of the heavy -rain of the preceding day, we did not much relish the thoughts of -passing the night in our tent; yet there seemed to be no alternative, as -the only house in sight was crowded with people, and not capable of -affording us any accommodations. Luckily, however, as we were searching -about for the driest spot to pitch our tent upon, one of the party -espied a barn at a little distance, belonging to the man of the -adjoining house, of whom we procured the key; it was well stored with -straw, and having mounted to the top of the mow, we laid ourselves down -to rest, and slept soundly there till awakened in the morning by the -crowing of some cocks, that were perched on the beams above our head. - -[Sidenote: OSWEGATCHEE RIVER.] - -At an early hour we pursued our voyage, and before noon passed the last -rapid, about three miles below the mouth of Oswegatchee River, the most -considerable of those within the territory of the United States, which -fall into the St. Lawrence. It consists of three branches, that unite -together about fifteen miles above its mouth, the most western of which -issues from a lake twenty miles in length and eight in breadth. Another -of the branches issues from a small lake or pond, only about four miles -distant from the western branch of Hudson’s River, that flows past New -York. Both the Hudson and Oswegatchee are said to be capable of being -made navigable for light bateaux as far as this spot, where they -approach within so short a distance of each other, except only at a few -places, so that the portages will be but very trifling. This however is -a mere conjecture, for Oswegatchee River is but very imperfectly known, -the country it passes through being quite uninhabited; but should it be -found, at a future period, that these rivers are indeed capable of being -rendered navigable so far up the country, it will probably be through -this channel that the chief part of the trade that there may happen to -be between New York and the country bordering upon Lake Ontario will be -carried on. It is at present carried on between that city and the lake -by means of Hudson River, as far as Albany, and from thence by means of -the Mohawks River, Wood Creek, Lake Oneida, and Oswego River, which -falls into Lake Ontario. The harbour at the mouth of Oswego River is -very bad on account of the sand banks; none but flat bottomed vessels -can approach with safety nearer to it than two miles; nor is there any -good harbour on the south side of Lake Ontario in the neighbourhood of -any large rivers. Sharp built vessels, however, of a considerable size, -can approach with safety to the mouth of Oswegatchee River. The Seneca, -a British vessel of war of twenty-six guns, used formerly to ply -constantly between Fort de la Galette, situated at the mouth of that -river, and the fort at Niagara; and the British fur ships on the lakes -used also, at that time, to discharge the cargoes there, brought down -from the upper country. As therefore the harbour at the mouth of -Oswegatchee is so much better than that at the mouth of Oswego River, -and as they are nearly an equal distance from New York, there is reason -to suppose, that if the river navigation should prove equally good, the -trade between the lakes and New York will be for the most part, if not -wholly, carried on by means of Oswegatchee rather than of Oswego River. -With a fair wind, the passage from Oswegatchee River to Niagara is -accomplished in two days; a voyage only one day longer than that from -Oswego to Niagara with a fair wind. - -[Sidenote: FORT GALETTE.] - -Fort de la Galette was erected by the French, and though not built till -long after Fort Cataraguis or Frontignac, now Kingston, yet they -esteemed it by far the most important military post on the St. Lawrence, -in the upper country, as it was impossible for any boat or vessel to -pass up or down that river without being observed, whereas they might -easily escape unseen behind the many islands opposite to Kingston. Since -the close of the American war, Fort de la Galette has been dismantled, -as it was within the territory of the United States: nor would any -advantage have arisen from its retention; for it was never of any -importance to us but as a trading post, and as such Kingston, which is -within our own territory, is far more eligibly situated in every point -of view; it has a more safe and commodious harbour, and the fur ships -coming down from Niagara, by stopping there, are saved a voyage of sixty -miles up and down the St. Lawrence, which was oftentimes found to be -more tedious than the voyage from Niagara to Kingston. - -In the neighbourhood of La Galette, on the Oswegatchee River, there is a -village of the Oswegatchee Indians, whose numbers are estimated at one -hundred warriors. - -The current of the St. Lawrence, from Oswegatchee upwards, is much more -gentle than in any other part between Montreal and Lake Ontario, except -only where the river is considerably dilated, as at lakes St. Louis and -St. François; however, notwithstanding its being so gentle, we did not -advance more than twenty-five miles in the course of the day, owing to -the numerous stops that we made, more from motives of pleasure than -necessity. The evening was uncommonly fine, and towards sun-set a brisk -gale springing up, the conductor judged it advisable to take advantage -of it, and to continue the voyage all night, in order to make up for the -time we had lost during the day. We accordingly proceeded, but towards -midnight the wind died away; this circumstance, however, did not alter -the determination of the conductor. The men were ordered to the oars, -and notwithstanding that they had laboured hard during the preceding -day, and had had no rest, yet they were kept closely at work until -day-break, except for one hour, during which they were allowed to stop -to cook their provisions. Where there is a gentle current, as in this -part of the river, the Canadians will work at the oar for many hours -without intermission; they seemed to think it no hardship to be kept -employed in this instance the whole night; on the contrary, they plied -as vigorously as if they had but just set out, singing merrily the whole -time. The French Canadians have in general a good ear for music, and -sing duets with tolerable accuracy. They have one very favourite duet -amongst them, called the “rowing duet,” which as they sing they mark -time to with each stroke of the oar; indeed, when rowing in smooth -water, they mark the time of most of the airs they sing in the same -manner. - -[Sidenote: ISLANDS.] - -About eight o’clock the next, and eighth morning of our voyage, we -entered the last lake before you come to that of Ontario, called the -Lake of a Thousand Islands, on account of the multiplicity of them which -it contains. Many of these islands are scarcely larger than a bateau, -and none of them, except such as are situated at the upper and lower -extremities of the lake, appeared to me to contain more than fifteen -English acres each. They are all covered with wood, even to the very -smallest. The trees on these last are stunted in their growth, but the -larger islands produce as fine timber as is to be found on the main -shores of the lake. Many of these islands are situated so closely -together, that it would be easy to throw a pebble from one to the other, -notwithstanding which circumstance, the passage between them is -perfectly safe and commodious for bateaux, and between some of them that -are even thus close to each other, is water sufficient for a frigate. -The water is uncommonly clear, as it is in every part of the river, from -Lake St. Francis upwards: between that lake and the Utawas River -downwards it is discoloured, as I have before observed, by passing over -beds of marl. The shores of all these islands under our notice are -rocky; most of them rise very boldly, and some exhibit perpendicular -masses of rock towards the water upwards of twenty feet high. The -scenery presented to view in sailing between these islands is beautiful -in the highest degree. Sometimes, after passing through a narrow strait, -you find yourself in a bason, land locked on every side, that appears to -have no communication with the lake, except by the passage through which -you entered; you are looking about, perhaps, for an outlet to enable you -to proceed, thinking at last to see some little channel which will just -admit your bateau, when on a sudden an expanded sheet of water opens -upon you, whose boundary is the horizon alone; again in a few minutes -you find yourself land locked, and again a spacious passage as suddenly -presents itself; at other times, when in the middle of one of these -basons, between a cluster of islands, a dozen different channels, like -so many noble rivers, meet the eye, perhaps equally unexpectedly, and on -each side the islands appear regularly retiring till they sink from the -sight in the distance. Every minute, during the passage of this lake, -the prospect varies. The numerous Indian hunting encampments on the -different islands, with the smoke of their fires rising up between the -trees, added considerably to the beauty of the scenery as we passed it. -The Lake of a Thousand Islands is twenty-five miles in length, and about -six in breadth. From its upper end to Kingston, at which place we -arrived early in the evening, the distance is fifteen miles. - -The length of time required to ascend the River St. Lawrence, from -Montreal to Kingston, is commonly found to be about seven days, if the -wind should be strong and very favourable, the passage may be performed -in a less time; but should it, on the contrary, be adverse, and blow -very strong, the passage will be protracted somewhat longer; an adverse -or favourable wind, however, seldom makes a difference of more than -three days in the length of the passage upwards, as in each case it is -necessary to work the bateaux along by means of poles for the greater -part of the way. The passage downwards is performed in two or three -days, according to the wind. The current is so strong, that a contrary -wind seldom lengthens the passage in that direction more than a day. - -[Sidenote: THE MISSISSIPPI.] - -The Mississippi is the only river in North America, which, for grandeur -and commodiousness of navigation, comes in competition with the St. -Lawrence, or with that river which runs from Lake Ontario to the ocean. -If, however, we consider that immense body of water that flows from Lake -Winnipeg through the Lake of the Woods, Lake Superior, &c. down to the -sea, as one entire stream, and of course as a continuation of the St. -Lawrence, it must be allowed to be a very superior river to the -Mississippi in every point of view; and we may certainly consider it as -one stream, with as much reason as we look upon that as one river which -flows from Lake Ontario to the sea; for before it meets the ocean it -passes through four large lakes, not indeed to be compared with those of -Erie or Superior, in size, but they are independent lakes -notwithstanding, as much as any of the others. The Mississippi is -principally to be admired for the evenness of its current, and the -prodigious length of way it is navigable, without any interruption, for -bateaux of a very large burthen; but in many respects it is a very -inferior river to the St. Lawrence, properly so called. The Mississippi -at its mouth is not twenty miles broad, and the navigation is there so -obstructed by banks or bars, that a vessel drawing more than twelve feet -water cannot ascend it without very imminent danger. These bars at its -mouth or mouths, for it is divided by several islands, are formed by -large quantities of trees that come drifting down from the upper -country, and when once stopped by any obstacle, are quickly cemented -together by the mud, deposited between the branches by the waters of the -river, which are uncommonly foul and muddy. Fresh bars are formed, or -the old bars are enlarged every year, and it is said, that unless some -steps are taken to prevent the lodgments of the trees annually brought -down at the time of the inundation, the navigation may in a few years be -still more obstructed than it is at present. It is notorious, that since -the river was first discovered, several islands and points have been -formed near its mouth, and the different channels have undergone very -material alterations for the worse, as to their courses and depths. The -River St. Lawrence, however, on the contrary, is no less than ninety -miles wide at its mouth, and it is navigable for ships of the line as -far as Quebec, a distance of four hundred miles from the sea. The -channel also, instead of having been impaired by time, is found to be -considerably better now than when the river was first discovered; and -there is reason to imagine that it will improve still more in process of -time, as the clear water that flows from Lake Ontario comes down with -such impetuosity, during the floods in the spring of the year, as -frequently to remove banks of gravel and loose stones in the river, and -thus to deepen its bed. The channel on the north side of the island of -Orleans, immediately below Quebec, which, according to the account of Le -P. de Charlevoix, was not sufficiently deep in the year 1720 to admit a -shallop of a small size, except at the time of high tides, is at present -found to be deep enough for the largest vessels, and is the channel most -generally used. - -[Sidenote: NAVIGATION.] - -The following table shews for what vessels the St. Lawrence is navigable -in different places; and also points out the various breadths of the -river from its mouth upwards: - - Distances Breadth in - Names of Places. in miles miles. - ascending. - - ─── ─── ─── - - At its mouth 90 - - At Cape Cat 140 30 - - At Saguenay River 120 18 - - At the lower extremity of the 110 15[5] - Isle of Orleans - - At the bason between the Isle 30 5[6] - of Orleans and Quebec - - From Quebec to Lake St. Pierre 90 - - Lake St. Pierre 30 14 - - To La Valterie 10 1 - - To Montreal 30 2 to 4[7] - - To Lake St. Louis 6 –¾ - - Lake St. Louis 12 4 - - To Lake St. Francis 25 ½ to 2 - - Lake St. Francis 20 5 - - To the Lake of a Thousand 90 ¼ to 1 - Isles - - Lake of a Thousand Isles 25 6 - - To Kingston, on Lake Ontario 15 2½ to 6 - - ─── - - 743 - - ═══ - -Footnote 5: - - This island is 25 miles in length and 6 in breadth, the river on each - side is about 2 miles wide. - -Footnote 6: - - Thus far, 400 miles from its mouth, it is navigable for ships of the - line with safety - -Footnote 7: - - To this place, 560 miles, it is navigable with perfect safety for - ships drawing 14 feet water. Vessels of a much larger draught have - proceeded many miles above Quebec, but the channel is very intricate - and dangerous. - -During the whole of its course the St. Lawrence is navigable for bateaux -of two tons burthen, except merely at the rapids above Montreal, at the -Fall of the Thicket, and at the Long Fall, where, as has been already -pointed out, it is necessary to lighten the bateaux, if heavily laden. -At each of these places, however, it is possible to construct canals, so -as to prevent the trouble of unlading any part of the cargoes of the -bateaux, and at a future day, when the country becomes rich, such canals -no doubt will be made. - -[Sidenote: THE ST. LAWRENCE.] - -Although the lakes are not immediately connected with the Atlantic Ocean -by any other river than the St. Lawrence, yet there are several streams -that fall into the Atlantic, so nearly connected with others flowing -into the lakes, that by their means trade may be carried on between the -ocean and the lakes. The principal channels for trade between the ocean -and the lakes are four in number; the first, along the Mississippi and -the Ohio, and thence up the Wabash, Miami, Mushingun, or the Alleghany -rivers, from the head of which there are portages of from one to -eighteen miles to rivers that fall into Lake Erie; secondly, along the -Patowmac River, which flows past Washington, and from thence along Cheat -River, the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers and French Creek to Presqu’ -Isle on Lake Erie; thirdly, along Hudson’s River, which falls into the -Atlantic at New York, and afterwards along the Mohawk River, Wood Creek, -Lake Oneida, and Oswego River, which last falls into Lake Ontario; -fourthly, along the St. Lawrence. - -The following is a statement of the entire length of each of these -channels or routes, and of the lengths of the portages in each, -reckoning from the highest seaport on each river that will receive -vessels of a suitable size for crossing the Atlantic to Lake Erie, which -is the most central of the lakes to the four ports: - - Length Length - of Way of the - in Portages. - Miles. - - ─── ─── - - From Montreal 440 22 - - From Washington 450 80[8] - - From New York 500 30 - - From New Orleans 1,800 1 to - 18[9] - -Footnote 8: - - When the navigation is opened, this will be reduced, it is said, to 50 - miles. - -Footnote 9: - - According to the route followed from the Ohio to the Lake. - -[Sidenote: THE ST. LAWRENCE.] - -From this statement it not only appears evident that the St. Lawrence -opens a shorter passage to the lakes than any of the other rivers, but -also that the portages are shorter than in any of the other routes; the -portages are also fewer, and goods may be transported in the same boats -the whole way from Montreal to the lakes; whereas in conveying goods -thither either from Washington or New York, it is necessary to employ -different boats and men on each different river, or else to transport -the boats themselves on carriages over the portages from one river to -another. It is always an object of importance to avoid a portage, as by -every change in the mode of conveyance the expence of carriage is -increased, and there is an additional risk of pillage from the goods -passing through the hands of a greater number of people. Independent of -these considerations, the St. Lawrence will, on another account, be -found a more commodious channel than any other for the carrying on of -trade between the ocean and the lakes. Constantly supplied from that -immense reservoir of water, Lake Ontario, it is never so low, even in -the driest season, as not to be sufficiently deep to float laden -bateaux. The small streams, on the contrary, which connect Hudson’s -River, the Patowmac, and the Mississippi with the lakes, are frequently -so dried up in summer time, that it is scarcely possible to pass along -them in canoes. For upwards of four months in the summer of 1796, the -Mohawk River was so low, that it was totally impracticable to transport -merchandize along it during the greater part of its course, and the -traders in the back country, after waiting for a length of time for the -goods they wanted, were under the necessity at last of having them -forwarded by land carriage. The navigation of this river, it is said, -becomes worse every year, and unless several long canals are cut, there -will be an end to the water communication between New York and Lake -Ontario by that route. The Alleghany River and French Creek, which -connect the Patowmac with Lake Erie, are equally affected by droughts; -indeed it is only during floods, occasioned by the melting of the snow, -or by heavy falls of rain, that goods can be transported with ease -either by the one route or the other. - -By far the greater part of the trade to the lakes is at present centered -at Montreal; for the British merchants not only can convey their goods -from thence to the lakes for one third less than what it costs to convey -the same goods thither from New York, but they can likewise afford to -sell them, in the first instance, considerably cheaper than the -merchants of the United States. The duties paid on the importation into -Canada of refined sugar, spirits, wine, and coffee, are considerably -less than those paid on the importation of the same commodities into the -United States; and all British hardware, and dry goods in general, are -admitted duty free into Canada, whereas, in the United States, they are -chargeable, on importation from Europe, with a duty of fifteen per cent. -on the value. To attempt to levy duties on foreign manufactures sent -into the states from Canada would be an idle attempt, as from the great -extent of their frontier, and its contiguity to Canada, it would at all -times be an easy matter to send the goods clandestinely into them, in -order to avoid the duties. - -The trade carried on from Montreal to the lakes is at present very -considerable, and increasing every year. Already are there extensive -settlements on the British side of Lake Ontario, at Niagara, at Toronto, -at the Bay of Canti, and at Kingston, which contain nearly twenty -thousand inhabitants; and on the opposite shore, the people of the -states are pushing forward their settlements with the utmost vigour. On -Lake Erie, and along Detroit River also, the settlements are increasing -with astonishing rapidity, both on the British and on the opposite side. - -[Sidenote: MONTREAL.] - -The importance of the back country trade, and the trade to the lakes is -in fact the back country trade, has already been demonstrated; and it -has been shewn, that every seaport town in the United States has -increased in size in proportion to the quantum it enjoyed of this trade; -and that those towns most conveniently situated for carrying it on, were -those that had the greatest share of it; as, therefore, the shores of -the lake increase in population, and of course as the demand for -European manufactures increases amongst the inhabitants, we may expect -to see Montreal, which of all the sea-ports in North America is the most -conveniently situated for supplying them with such manufactures, -increase proportionably in size; and as the extent of back country it is -connected with, by means of water, is as great, and also as fertile as -that with which any of the large towns of the United States are -connected, it is not improbable but that Montreal at a future day will -rival in wealth and in size the greatest of the cities on the continent -of North America. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXX. - -_Description of the Town of Kingston.—Formerly called Fort - Cadaraqua.—Extensive Trade carried on here.—Nature of it.—Inhabitants - very hospitable.—Harbours on Lake Ontario.—Ships of War on that - Lake.—Merchant Vessels.—Naval Officers.—Expence of building and - keeping up Vessels very great.—Why.—No Iron Mines yet opened in the - Country.—Copper may be more easily procured than Iron.—Found in great - Quantities on the Borders of Lake Superior.—Embark in a Trading Vessel - on Lake Ontario.—Description of that Lake.—A Septennial Change in the - Height of the Waters said to be observable—also a Tide that ebbs and - flows every Two Hours.—Observations on these Phenomena.—Voyage across - the Lake similar to a Sea Voyage.—Come in Sight of Niagara Fort.—Land - at Mississaguis Point.—Mississaguis Indians.—One of their Chiefs - killed in_ _an Affray.—How treated by the British Government.—Their - revengeful Disposition.—Mississaguis good Hunters.—How they kill - Salmon.—Variety of Fish in the Lakes and Rivers of Canada.—Sea - Wolves.—Sea Cows.—Description of the Town of Niagara or - Newark.—The present Seat of Government.—Scheme of removing it - elsewhere.—Unhealthiness of the Town of Niagara and adjacent - Country.—Navy Hats.—Fort of Niagara surrendered pursuant to - Treaty.—Description of it.—Description of the other Forts surrendered - to the People of the United States.—Shewn not to be so advantageous to - them as was expected.—Superior Position of the new British Posts - pointed out._ - - - Niagara, September. - -[Sidenote: KINGSTON.] - - -KINGSTON is situated at the mouth of a deep bay, at the north eastern -extremity of Lake Ontario. It contains a fort and barracks, an English -episcopalian church, and about one hundred houses, the most of which, -last were built, and are now inhabited by persons who emigrated from the -United States at the close of the American war. Some few of the houses -are built of stone and brick, but by far the greater part of them are of -wood. The fort is of stone, and consists of a square with four bastions. -It was erected by M. le Comte de Frontinac, as early as the year 1672, -and was for a time called after him; but insensibly it lost his name, -and received instead of it that of Cadaraqui, the name of a creek which -falls into the bay. This name remained common to the fort and to the -town until a few years ago, when it was changed to that of Kingston. -From sixty to one hundred men are usually quartered in the barracks. - -Kingston is a place of very considerable trade, and it is consequently -increasing most rapidly in size. All the goods brought up the St. -Lawrence for the supply of the upper country are here deposited in -stores, preparatory to their being shipped on board vessels suitable to -the navigation of the lake; and the furs from the various posts on the -nearer lakes are here likewise collected together, in order to be laden -on board bateaux, and sent down the St. Lawrence. Some furs are brought -in immediately to the town by the Indians, who hunt in the neighbouring -country, and along the upper parts of the St. Lawrence, but the quantity -is not large. The principal merchants resident at Kingston are partners -of old established houses at Montreal and Quebec. A stranger, especially -if a British subject, is sure to meet with a most hospitable and -friendly reception from them, as he passes through the place. - -During the autumn the inhabitants of Kingston suffer very much from -intermittent fevers, owing to the town being situated on a low spot of -ground, contiguous to an extensive morass. - -[Sidenote: KINGSTON BAY.] - -The bay adjoining to Kingston affords good anchorage, and is the safest -and most commodious harbour on all Lake Ontario. The bay of Great Sodus, -on the south side of the lake, and that of Toronto, situated on the -north side of the lake, nearly in the same meridian with Niagara, are -said to be the next best to that of Kingston; but the entrance into each -of them is obstructed by sand banks, which in rough weather cannot be -crossed without imminent danger in vessels drawing more than five or six -feet water. On the borders of the bay at Kingston there is a King’s dock -yard, and another which is private property. Most of the British vessels -of burthen on Lake Ontario have been built at these yards. Belonging to -his Majesty there were on Lake Ontario, when we crossed it, three -vessels of about two hundred tons each, carrying from eight to twelve -guns, besides several gun boats; the last, however, were not in -commission, but laid up in Niagara River; and in consequence of the -ratification of the treaty of amity and commerce between the United -States and his Britannic Majesty, orders were issued, shortly after we -left Kingston, for laying up the other vessels of war, one alone -excepted[10]. For one King’s ship there would be ample employment on the -lake, in conveying to the upper country the presents for the Indians and -the stores for the troops, and in transporting the troops across the -lake when they changed quarters. Every military officer at the outposts -enjoys the privilege of having a certain bulk, according to his rank, -carried for him in the King’s vessels, free of all charges. The naval -officers, if their vessels be not otherwise engaged, are allowed to -carry a cargo of merchandize when they sail from one port to another, -the freight of which is their perquisite; they likewise have the -liberty, and are constantly in the practice, of carrying passengers -across the lake at an established price. The commodore of the King’s -vessels on Lake Ontario is a French Canadian, and so likewise are most -of the officers under him. Their uniform is blue and white, with large -yellow buttons, stamped with the figure of a beaver, over which is -inscribed the word, “Canada.” The naval officers are under the controul -of the military officer commandant, at every post where their vessels -happen to touch; and they cannot leave their vessels to go up into the -country at any time without his permission. - -Footnote 10: - - Subsequent orders, it was said, were issued, during the summer of - 1797, to have one or more of these vessels put again in commission. - -[Sidenote: MERCHANT VESSELS.] - -Several decked merchant vessels, schooners, and sloops, of from fifty to -two hundred tons each, and also numberless large sailing bateaux, are -kept employed on Lake Ontario. No vessels are deemed proper for the -navigation of these lakes but complete sea boats, or else flat bottomed -vessels, such as canoes and bateaux, that can safely run ashore on an -emergency. At present the people of the United States have no other -vessels than bateaux on the lake, and whether they will deem it proper -to have larger vessels, as their harbours are all so indifferent, -remains yet to be determined. The large British vessels ply mostly -between Kingston and Niagara, and but very rarely touch at any other -place. - -The expence of building, and equipping vessels on Lake Ontario, is very -considerable; and it is still greater on the more distant lakes, as the -larger part of the iron implements, and all the cordage wanted for that -purpose, are imported from Great Britain, through the medium of the -lower province. There can be no doubt, however, but that when the -country is become more populous, an ample supply of these necessary -articles will be readily procured on the spot; for the soil of the upper -province is well adapted to the growth of hemp, and iron ore has been -discovered in many parts of the country. Hemp already begins to be -cultivated in small quantities; but it has hitherto been the policy of -government to direct the attention of the people to agriculture, rather -than to any other pursuit, so that none of the iron mines, which, -together with all other mines that are, or that may hereafter be -discovered, are the exclusive property of the crown, have yet been -opened. The people of the United States, however, alive to every -prospect of gain, have already sent persons to look for iron ore in that -part of their territory situated conveniently to the lakes. These -persons have been very successful in their searches; and as works will -undoubtedly be established speedily by them in this quarter for the -manufacture of iron, and as they will be able to afford it on much -better terms than that which is brought all the way from Lower Canada, -it is probable that government will encourage the opening of mines in -our own dominions, rather than suffer the people of the States to enjoy -such a very lucrative branch of trade as they must necessarily have, if -the same policy is persisted in which has hitherto been pursued. - -[Sidenote: COPPER ORES.] - -Copper, in the more remote parts of Upper Canada, is found in much -greater abundance than iron, and as it may be extracted from the earth -with considerably less trouble than any of the iron ore that has yet -been discovered, there is reason to imagine, that at a future day it -will be much more used than iron for every purpose to which it can be -applied. On the borders of a river, which falls into the south-west side -of Lake Superior, virgin copper is found in the greatest abundance; and -on most of the islands on the eastern side it is also found. In the -possession of a gentleman at Niagara I saw a lump of virgin copper of -several ounces weight, apparently as pure as if it had passed through -fire, which I was informed had been struck off with a chisel from a -piece equally pure, growing on one of these islands, which must at least -have weighed forty pounds. Rich veins of copper are visible in almost -all the rocks on these islands towards the shore; and copper ore, -resembling copperas, is likewise found in deep beds near the water: in a -few hours bateaux might here be filled with ore, and in less than three -days conveyed to the Straits of St. Mary, after passing which the ore -might be laden on board large vessels, and conveyed by water without any -further interruption as far as Niagara River. The portage at the Straits -of St. Mary may be passed in a few hours, and with a fair wind large -vessels, proper for traversing Lakes Huron and Erie, may come down to -the eastern extremity of the latter lake in six days. - -Not only the building and fitting out of vessels on the lakes is -attended with considerable expence, but the cost of keeping them up is -likewise found to be very great, for they wear out much sooner than -vessels employed commonly on the ocean; which circumstance, according to -the opinion of the naval gentlemen on the lakes, is owing to the -freshness of the water; added to this, no sailors are to be hired but at -very high wages, and it is found necessary to retain them at full pay -during the five months of the year that the vessels are laid up on -account of the ice, as men cannot be procured at a moment’s notice. The -sailors, with a few exceptions only, are procured from sea-ports, as it -is absolutely necessary on these lakes, the navigation of which is more -dangerous than that of the ocean, to have able and experienced seamen. -Lake Ontario itself is never frozen out of sight of land, but its rivers -and harbours are regularly blocked up by the ice. - -The day after that on which we reached Kingston, we took our passage for -Niagara on board a schooner of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, -which was waiting at the merchant’s wharf for a fair wind. The -established price of the passage across the lake in the cabin is two -guineas, and in the steerage one guinea, for each person: this is by no -means dear, considering that the captain, for the money, keeps a table -for each respective set of passengers. The cabin table on board this -vessel was really well served, and there was abundance of port and -sherry wine, and of every sort of spirits, for the use of the cabin -passengers. The freight of goods across the lake is dearer in -proportion, being thirty-six shillings British per ton, which is nearly -as much as was paid for the transportation of a ton of goods across the -Atlantic previous to the present war; it cannot, however, be deemed -exorbitant, when the expence of building and keeping the vessels in -repair, and the high wages of the sailors, &c. are taken into -consideration. - -[Sidenote: FREIGHTAGE.] - -On the 7th of September, in the afternoon, the wind became favourable -for crossing the lake; notice was in consequence immediately sent round -to the passengers, who were dispersed in different parts of the town, to -get ready; all of them hurried on board; the vessel was unmoored, and in -a few minutes she was wafted out into the lake by a light breeze. For -the first mile and a half, in going from Kingston, the prospect is much -confined, on account of the many large islands on the left hand side; -but on weathering a point on one of the islands, at the end of that -distance, an extensive view of the lake suddenly opens, which on a still -clear evening, when the sun is sinking behind the lofty woods that adorn -the shores, is extremely grand and beautiful. - -[Sidenote: LAKE ONTARIO.] - -Lake Ontario is the most easterly of the four large lakes through which -the boundary line passes, that separates the United States from the -province of Upper Canada. It is two hundred and twenty miles in length, -from east to west, and seventy miles wide in the broadest part, and, -according to calculation, contains about 2,390,000 acres. This lake is -less subject to storms than any of the others, and its waters in -general, considering their great expanse, are wonderfully tranquil. -During the first evening of our voyage there was not the least curl even -on their surface, they were merely agitated by a gentle swell; and -during the subsequent part of the voyage, the waves were at no time so -high as to occasion the slightest sickness amongst any of the -passengers. The depth of the water in the lake is very great; in some -parts it is unfathomable. On looking over the side of a vessel, the -water, owing to its great depth, appears to be of a blackish colour, but -it is nevertheless very clear, and any white substance thrown overboard -may be discerned at the depth of several fathoms from the surface; it -is, however, by no means so clear and transparent as the water of some -of the other lakes. Mr. Carver, speaking of Lake Superior, says, “When -it was calm, and the sun shone bright, I could sit in my canoe, where -the depth was upwards of six fathoms, and plainly see huge piles of -stone at the bottom, of different shapes, some of which appeared as if -they had been hewn; the water was at this time as pure and transparent -as air, and my canoe seemed as if it hung suspended in that element. It -was impossible to look attentively through this limpid medium, at the -rocks below, without finding, before many minutes were elapsed, your -head swim, and your eyes no longer able to behold the dazzling scene.” - -The water of Lake Ontario is very well tasted, and is that which is -constantly used on board the vessels that traverse it. - -[Sidenote: RISING OF THE WATER.] - -It is very confidently asserted, not only by the Indians, but also by -great numbers of the white people who live on the shores of Lake -Ontario, that the waters of this lake rise and fall alternately every -seventh year; others, on the contrary, deny that such a fluctuation does -take place; and indeed it differs so materially from any that has been -observed in large bodies of water in other parts of the globe, that for -my own part I am somewhat tempted to believe it is merely an imaginary -change; nevertheless, when it is considered, that according to the -belief of the older inhabitants of the country, such a periodical ebbing -and flowing of the waters of the lake takes place, and that it has never -been clearly proved to the contrary, we are bound to suspend our -opinions on the subject. A gentleman, whole habitation was situated -close upon the borders of the lake, not far from Kingston, and who, from -the nature of his profession, had more time to attend to such subjects -than the generality of the people of the country, told me, that he had -observed the state of the lake attentively for nearly fourteen years -that he had resided on the borders of it, and that he was of opinion the -waters did not ebb and flow periodically; yet he acknowledged this very -remarkable fact, that several of the oldest white inhabitants in his -neighbourhood declared, previously to the rising of the lake, that the -year 1795 would be the high year; and that in the summer of that year, -the lake actually did rise to a very uncommon height. He said, however, -that he had reason to think the rising of the lake on this occasion was -wholly owing to fortuitous circumstances, and not to any regular -established law of nature; and he conceived, that if the lake had not -risen as it had done, yet the people would have fancied, nevertheless, -that it was in reality higher than usual, as he supposed they had -fancied it to be on former occasions. He was induced to form this -opinion, he said, from the following circumstance: When the lake had -risen to such an unusual height in the year 1795, he examined several of -the oldest people on the subject, and questioned them particularly as to -the comparative height of the waters on this and former occasions. They -all declared that the waters were not higher than they usually were at -the time of their periodical rising; and they affirmed, that they had -themselves seen them equally high before. Now a grove of trees, which -stood adjoining to this gentleman’s garden, and must at least have been -of thirty years growth, was entirely destroyed this year by the waters -of the lake, that flowed amongst the trees; had the lake, therefore, -ever risen so high before, this grove would have been then destroyed. -This circumstance certainly militated strongly against the evidence -which the people gave as to the height of the waters; but it only proved -that the waters had risen on this occasion higher than they had done for -thirty years preceding; it did not prove that they had not, during that -term, risen periodically above their ordinary level. - -What Mr. Carver relates concerning this subject, rather tends to confirm -the opinion that the waters of the lake do rise. “I had like,” he says, -“to have omitted a very extraordinary circumstance relative to these -straits;” the Straits of Michillimakinac, between lakes Michigan and -Huron. “According to observations made by the French, whilst they were -in possession of the fort there, although there is no diurnal flood or -ebb to be perceived in these waters, yet from an exact attention to -their state, a periodical alteration in them has been discovered. It was -observed, that they arose by gradual but almost imperceptible degrees, -till they had reached the height of three feet; this was accomplished in -seven years and a half; and in the same space of time they as gently -decreased, till they had reached their former situation; so that in -fifteen years they had completed this inexplicable revolution. At the -time I was there, the truth of these observations could not be confirmed -by the English, as they had then been only a few years in possession of -the fort; but they all agreed that some alterations in the limits of the -straits was apparent.” It is to be lamented that succeeding years have -not thrown more light on the subject; for since the fort has been in our -possession, persons competent to determine the truth of observations of -such a nature, have never staid a sufficient length of time there to -have had it in their power to do so. - -[Sidenote: LAKE ONTARIO.] - -A long series of minute observations are necessary to determine -positively whether the waters of the lake do or do not rise and fall -periodically. It is well known, for instance, that in wet seasons the -waters rise much above their ordinary level, and that in very dry -seasons they sink considerably below it; a close attention, therefore, -ought to be paid to the quantity of rain that falls, and to evaporation; -and it ought to be ascertained in what degree the height of the lake is -altered thereby; otherwise, if the lake happened to be higher or lower -than usual on the seventh year, it would be impossible to say with -accuracy whether it were owing to the state of the weather, or to -certain laws of nature that we are yet unacquainted with. At the same -time, great attention ought to be paid to the state of the winds, as -well in respect to their direction as to their velocity, for the height -of the waters of all the lakes is materially affected thereby. At Fort -Erie, situated at the eastern extremity of the lake of the same name, I -once observed the waters to fall full three feet in the course of a few -hours, upon a sudden change of the wind from the westward, in which -direction it had blown for many days, to the east-ward. Moreover, these -observations ought not only to be made at one place on the borders of -anyone of the lakes, but they ought to be made at several different -places at the same time; for the waters have encroached, owing to some -unknown causes, considerably and gradually upon the shores in some -places, and receded in others. Between the stone house, in the fort at -Niagara, and the lake, for instance, there is not at present a greater -space than ten yards, or thereabouts; though when first built there was -an extensive garden between them. A water battery also, erected since -the commencement of the present war, at the bottom of the bank, beyond -the walls of the fort, was sapped away by the water in the course of two -seasons, and now scarcely any vestige of it remains. At a future day, -when the country becomes more populous and more wealthy, persons will no -doubt be found who will have leisure for making the observations -necessary for determining whether the lakes do or do not undergo a -periodical change, but at present the inhabitants on the borders of them -are too much engaged in commercial and agricultural pursuits to attend -to matters of mere speculation, which, however they might amuse the -philosopher, could be productive of no solid advantages to the -generality of the inhabitants of the country. - -[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.] - -It is believed by many persons that the waters of Lake Ontario not only -rise and fall periodically every seventh year, but that they are -likewise influenced by a tide, which ebbs and flows frequently in the -course of twenty-four hours. On board the vessel in which I crossed the -lake there were several gentlemen of the country, who confidently -assured me, that a regular tide was observable at the Bay of Canti; that -in order to satisfy themselves on the subject, they had stood for -several hours together, on more than one occasion, at a mill at the head -of the bay, and that they had observed the waters to ebb and flow -regularly every four hours, rising to the height of fourteen inches. -There can be no doubt, however, but that the frequent ebbing and flowing -of the water at this place must be caused by the wind; for no such -regular fluctuation is observable at Niagara, at Kingston, or on the -open shores of the lake; and owing to the formation of the Bay of Canti, -the height of the water must necessarily vary there with, every slight -change of the wind. The Bay of Canti is a long crooked inlet, that grows -narrower at the upper end, like a funnel; not only, therefore, a change -of wind up or down the bay would make a difference in the height of the -water at the uppermost extremity of it; but owing to the waters being -concentrated there at one point, they would be seen to rise or fall, if -impelled even in the same direction, whether up or down the bay, more or -less forcibly at one time of the day than at another. Now it is very -seldom that the wind, at any part of the day or night, would be found to -blow precisely with the same force, for a given space of two hours, that -it had blown for the preceding space of two hours; an appearance like a -tide must therefore be seen almost constantly at the head of this bay -whenever there was a breeze. I could not learn that the fluctuation had -ever been observed during a perfect calm: were the waters, however, -influenced by a regular tide, during a calm the tide would be most -readily seen. - -To return to the voyage. A few hours after we quitted Kingston, on the -7th of September, the wind died away, and during the whole night the -vessel made but little way; early on the morning of the 8th, however, a -fresh breeze sprang up, and before noon we lost sight of the land. Our -voyage now differed in no wise from one across the ocean; the vessel was -steered by the compass, the log regularly heaved, the way marked down in -the log book, and an exact account kept of the procedures on board. We -continued sailing, out of sight of land, until the evening of the 9th, -when we had a view of the blue hills in the neighbourhood of Toronto, on -the northern side of the lake, but they soon disappeared. Except at this -place, the shores of the lake are flat and sandy, owing to which -circumstance it is, that in traversing the lake you are generally -carried out of sight of land in a very few hours. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA.] - -At day-break on the 10th the fort and town of Niagara appeared under the -lee bow, and the wind being favourable, we had every prospect before us -of getting up to the town in a few hours; but scarcely had we reached -the bar, at the mouth of Niagara River, when the wind suddenly shifted, -and after endeavouring in vain to cross it by means of tacking, we were -under the necessity of casting anchor at the distance of about two miles -from the fort. The fort is seen to great advantage from the water; but -the town being built parallel to the river, and no part of it visible to -a spectator on the lake, except the few shabby houses at the nearest -end, it makes but a very poor appearance. Having breakfasted, and -exchanged our _habits de voyage_, for such as it was proper to appear in -at the capital of Upper Canada, and at the center of the beau monde of -the province, the schooner’s yawl was launched, and we were landed, -together with such of the passengers as were disposed to go on shore, at -Mississaguis Point, from whence there is an agreeable walk of one mile, -partly through woods, to the town of Niagara. - -[Sidenote: MISSISSAGUIS.] - -This point takes its name from the Mississaguis Indians, great numbers -of whom are generally encamped upon it. The Mississaguis tribe inhabits -the shores of Lake Ontario, and it is one of the most numerous of this -part of the country. The men are in general very stout, and they are -esteemed most excellent hunters and fishers; but less warlike, it is -said, than any of the neighbouring nations. They are of a much darker -complexion than any other Indians I ever met with; some of them being -nearly as black as negroes. They are extremely dirty and slovenly in -their appearance, and the women are still more so than the men; such -indeed is the odour exhaled in a warm day from the rancid grease and -fish oil with which the latter daub their hair, necks, and faces -profusely, that it is offensive in the highest degree to approach within -some yards of them. On arriving at Niagara, we found great numbers of -these Indians dispersed in knots, in different parts of the town, in -great concern for the loss of a favourite and experienced chief. This -man, whose name was Wompakanon, had been killed, it appeared, by a white -man, in a fray which happened at Toronto, near to which place is the -principal village of the Mississaguis nation. The remaining chiefs -immediately assembled their warriors, and marched down to Niagara, to -make a formal complaint to the British government. To appease their -resentment, the commanding officer of the garrison distributed presents -amongst them to a large amount, and amongst other things they were -allowed no small portion of rum and provisions, upon which the tribe -feasted, according to custom, the day before we reached the town; but -the rum being all consumed, they seemed to feel severely for the loss of -poor Wompakanon. Fear of exciting the anger of the British government -would prevent them from taking revenge openly on this occasion; but I -was informed by a gentleman in the Indian department, intimately -acquainted with the dispositions of the Indians, that as nothing but -blood is deemed sufficient in their opinion to atone for the death of a -favourite chief, they would certainly kill some white man, perhaps one -perfectly innocent, when a favourable and secret opportunity offered for -so doing, though it should be twenty years afterwards. - -The Mississaguis keep the inhabitants of Kingston, of Niagara, and of -the different towns on the lake, well supplied with fish and game, the -value of which is estimated by bottles of rum and loaves of bread. A -gentleman, with whom we dined at Kingston, entertained us with a most -excellent haunch of venison of a very large size, and a salmon weighing -at least fifteen pounds, which he had purchased from one of these -Indians for a bottle of rum and a loaf of bread[11], and upon enquiry I -found that the Indian thought himself extremely well paid, and was -highly pleased with having made such a good bargain. - -Footnote 11: - - Both together probably not worth more than half a dollar. - -The Indians catch salmon and other large fish in the following manner. -Two men go together in a canoe at night; the one sits in the stern and -paddles, and the other stands with a spear over a flambeau placed in the -head of the canoe. The fish, attracted by the light, come in numbers -around the canoe, and the spearsman then takes the opportunity of -striking them. They are very expert at this business, seldom missing -their aim. - -Lake Ontario, and all the rivers which fall into it, abound with -excellent salmon, and many different kinds of sea-fish, which come up -the River St. Lawrence; it also abounds with such a great variety of -fresh water fish, that it is supposed there are many sorts in it which -have never yet been named. In almost every part of the River St. -Lawrence, fish is found in the greatest abundance; and it is the opinion -of many persons, that if the fisheries were properly attended to, -particularly the salmon fishery, the country would be even more enriched -thereby than by the fur trade. Sea wolves and sea cows, amphibious -animals, weighing from one to two thousand pounds each, are said to have -been found in Lake Ontario: of the truth of this, however, there is some -doubt; but certain it is, that in sailing across that lake animals of an -immense size are frequently seen playing on the surface of the water. Of -the large fishes, the sturgeon is the one most commonly met with, and it -is not only found in Lake Ontario, but also in the other lakes that have -no immediate communication with the sea. The sturgeon caught in the -lakes is valuable for its oil, but it is not a well flavoured fish; -indeed, the sturgeon found north of James River in Virginia is in -general very indifferent, and seldom or never eaten. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA RIVER.] - -Niagara River runs nearly in a due south direction, and falls into Lake -Ontario on the southern shore, about thirty miles to the east-ward of -the western extremity of the lake. It is about three hundred yards wide -at its mouth, and is by far the largest body of water flowing into Lake -Ontario. On the eastern side of the river is situated the fort, now in -the possession of the people of the States, and on the opposite or -British side the town, most generally known by the name of Niagara, -notwithstanding that it has been named Newark by the legislature. The -original name of the town was Niagara, it was afterwards called Lenox, -then Nassau, and afterwards Newark. It is to be lamented that the Indian -names, so grand and sonorous, should ever have been changed for others. -Newark, Kingston, York, are poor substitutes for the original names of -these respective places, Niagara, Cataragui, Toronto. The town of -Niagara hitherto has been, and is still the capital of the province of -Upper Canada; orders, however, had been issued, before our arrival -there, for the removal of the seat of government from thence to Toronto, -which was deemed a more eligible spot for the meeting of the legislative -bodies, as being farther removed from the frontiers of the United -States. This projected change is by no means relished by the people at -large, as Niagara is a much more convenient place of resort to most of -them than Toronto; and as the governor who proposed the measure has been -removed, it is imagined that it will not be put in execution. The -removal of the seat of government from Niagara to Toronto, according to -the plan laid down, was only to have been a preparatory step to another -alteration: a new city, to have been named London, was to have been -built on the river formerly called La Trenche, but since called the -Thames, a river running into Lake St. Clair; and here the seat of -government was ultimately to have been fixed. The spot marked out for -the site of the city possesses many local advantages. It is situated in -a healthy fertile country, on a fine navigable river, in a central part -of the province, from whence the water communication is extensive in -every direction. A few settlements have already been made on the banks -of the river, and the tide of emigration is setting in strongly towards -that quarter; at a future day, therefore, it is by no means improbable -but that this spot may be deemed an eligible one for the capital of the -country; but to remove the seat of government immediately to a place -little better than a wilderness, and so far from the populous parts of -the province, would be a measure fraught with numberless inconveniencies -to the public, and productive apparently of no essential advantages -whatsoever. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA TOWN.] - -The town of Niagara contains about seventy houses, a court house, gaol, -and a building intended for the accommodation of the legislative bodies. -The houses, with a few exceptions, are built of wood; those next the -lake are rather poor, but at the upper end of the town there are several -very excellent dwellings, inhabited by the principal officers of -government. Most of the gentlemen in official stations in Upper Canada -are Englishmen of education, a circumstance which must render the -society of the capital agreeable, let it be fixed where it will. Few -places in North America can boast of a more rapid rise than the little -town of Niagara, nearly every one of its houses having been built within -the last five years: it is still advancing most rapidly in size, owing -to the increase of the back country trade along the shores of the upper -lakes, which is all carried on through the place, and also owing to the -wonderful emigrations, into the neighbourhood, of people from the -States. The motives which lead the citizens of the United States to -emigrate to the British dominions have already been explained. So sudden -and so great has the influx of people, into the town of Niagara and its -vicinity, been, that town lots, horses, provisions, and every necessary -of life have risen, within the last three years, nearly fifty per cent. -in value. - -[Sidenote: SICKNESS.] - -The banks of the River Niagara are steep and lofty, and on the top, at -each side of the river, are extensive plains. The town stands on the -summit of the western bank, about fifty yards from the water’s edge. It -commands a fine view of the lake and distant shores, and its situation -is in every respect pleasing to the eye. From its standing on a spot of -ground so much elevated above the level of the water, one would imagine -that it must also be a remarkably healthy place, but it is, in fact, -lamentably the reverse. On arriving at the town, we were obliged to call -at no less than four different taverns, before we could procure -accommodations, the people at the first places we stopped at being so -severely afflicted with the ague, that they could not receive us; and on -enquiring, it appeared that there was not a single house in the whole -town but where one or more of the inhabitants were labouring under this -perplexing disorder; in some of the houses entire families were laid up, -and at the fort on the opposite side of the river, the whole of the new -garrison, except a corporal and nine men, was disqualified for doing -duty. Each individual of our party could not but entertain very serious -apprehensions for his own health, on arriving at a place where sickness -was so general, but we were assured that the danger of catching the -disorder was now over; that all those who were ill at present, had been -confined many weeks before; and that for a fortnight past not a single -person had been attacked, who had not been ill in the preceding part of -the season. As a precaution, however, each one of the party took -fasting, in the morning, a glass of brandy, in which was infused a -teaspoonfull of Peruvian bark. This mixture is deemed, in the country, -one of the most certain preventatives against the disorder, and few that -take it, in time, regularly, and avoid the evening dews, suffer from it. - -Not only the town of Niagara and its vicinity are unhealthy places, but -almost every part of Upper Canada, and of the territory of the States -bordering upon the lakes, is likewise unhealthy. The sickly season -commences about the middle of July, and terminates about the first week -of September, as soon as the nights become cold. Intermittent fevers are -the most common disorders; but in some parts of the country the -inhabitants suffer from continual fevers, of which there are different -kinds, peculiar to certain districts. In the country, for instance, -bordering upon the Genesee River, which falls into Lake Ontario on the -southern side, a fever is common amongst the inhabitants of a malignant -nature, vulgarly called the Genesee fever, of which many die annually: -and in that bordering upon the Miami River, which falls into Lake Erie, -within the north-western territory of the United States, a fever of a -different kind, again, is common. It does not appear that the exact -nature of these different fevers has ever been accurately ascertained. -In the back parts of North America, in general, medical men are rarely -to be met with, and indeed if they were, the settlements are so far -removed from each other, that they could be of little service. - -[Sidenote: EMIGRATIONS.] - -It is very remarkable, that notwithstanding that medical assistance is -so rarely to be had in case of sickness in the back country, yet the -Americans, when they are about to change their place of abode, seldom or -ever consider whether the part of the country to which they are going is -healthy or otherwise, at least they are scarcely ever influenced in -their choice of a place of residence either by its healthiness or -unhealthiness. If the lands in one part of the country are superior to -those in another in fertility; if they are in the neighbourhood of a -navigable river, or situated conveniently to a good market; if they are -cheap, and rising in value, thither the American will gladly emigrate, -let the climate be ever so unfriendly to the human system. Not a year -passes over, but what numbers of people leave the beautiful and healthy -banks of the Susquehannah River for the Genesee country, where nine out -of every ten of the inhabitants are regularly seized, during the autumn, -with malignant fevers; but the lands bordering upon the Susquehannah are -in general poor, whereas those in the Genesee country are in many places -so rich, that until reduced by successive crops of Indian corn, wheat, -to use the common phrase, “will run wholly to straw:” where it has been -sown in the first instance, the stalks have frequently been found -fourteen or fifteen feet in length, two thirds of them lying on the -ground. - -On the margin of Niagara River, about three quarters of a mile from the -town, stands a building called Navy Hall, erected for the accommodation -of the naval officers on the lake during the winter season, when their -vessels are laid up. Opposite to it there is a spacious wharf to protect -the vessels from the ice during the winter, and also to facilitate the -landing of merchandize when the navigation is open. All cargoes brought -up the lake, that are destined for Niagara, are landed here. Adjoining -the wharf are very extensive stores belonging to the crown, and also to -private persons. Navy Hall is now occupied by the troops; the fort on -the opposite side of the river, where they were formerly stationed, -having been delivered up pursuant to the late treaty between his Majesty -and the United States. The troops, however, are only to remain at the -hall until a blockhouse is erected on the top of the banks for their -accommodation; this building is in a state of forwardness, and the -engineer hopes to have it finished in a few months. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FORT.] - -[Sidenote: FEDERAL ARMY.] - -The fort of Niagara stands immediately at the mouth of the river, on a -point of land, one side of which is washed by the river and the other by -the lake. Towards the water it is stockaded; and behind the stockade, on -the river side, a large mound of earth rises up, at the top of which are -embrasures for guns; on the land side it is secured by several batteries -and redoubts, and by parallel lines of fascines. At the gates, and in -various different parts, there are strong blockhouses; and facing the -lake, within the stockade, stands a large fortified stone house. The -fort and outworks occupy about five acres of ground; and a garrison of -five hundred men, and at least from thirty to forty pieces of ordnance, -would be necessary to defend it properly. The federal garrison, however, -consists only of fifty men; and the whole of the cannon in the place -amounts merely to four small field pieces, planted at the four corners -of the fort. This fort was founded by the French, and constituted one -link of that extensive chain of posts which they established along the -lakes and the western waters. It was begun by the building of the stone -house, after a solemn promise had been obtained from the Indians that -the artificers should not be interrupted whilst they were going on with -the work. The Indians readily made this promise, as, according to their -notion, it would have been inhospitable and unfriendly in the extreme -not to have permitted a few traders to build a house within their -territory to protect them against the inclemency of the seasons: but -they were greatly astonished when one so totally different from any that -they had ever seen before, and from any that they had an idea of, was -completed; they began to suspect that the strangers had plans in -meditation unfavourable to their interests, and they wished to -dispossess them of their new mansion, but it was too late. In the hall -of the house a well had been sunk to keep it supplied with water; the -house was plentifully stored with provisions in case of a siege; and the -doors being once closed, the tenants remained perfectly indifferent -about every hostile attack the Indians could make against it. -Fortifications to strengthen the house were gradually erected; and by -the year 1759 the place was so strong as to resist, for some time, the -forces under the command of Sir William Johnston. Great additions were -made to the works after the fort fell into the hands of the British. The -stone house is a very spacious building, and is now, as it was formerly, -appropriated for the accommodation of the principal officers of the -garrison. In the rear of the house is a large apartment, commanding a -magnificent view of the lake and of the distant hills at Toronto, which -formerly was the officers mess room, and a pattern of neatness. The -officers of the federal garrison, however, consider it more convenient -to mess in one of the kitchens, and this beautiful room has been -suffered to go to ruin; indeed every part of the fort now exhibits a -picture of slovenliness and neglect; and the appearance of the soldiers -is equally devoid of neatness with that of their quarters. Though it was -on Sunday morning that we visited the fort, on which day it is usual -even for the men of the garrisons in the States to appear better dressed -than on other days, yet the greater part of the men were as dirty as if -they had been at work in the trenches for a week without intermission: -their grisly beards demonstrated that a razor had not approached their -chins for many days; their hair, to appearance, had not been combed for -the same length of time; their linen was filthy, their guns rusty, and -their clothes ragged. That the clothes and accoutrements of the men -should not be better is not to be wondered at, considering how very -badly the western army of the States is appointed in every respect; but -it is strange that the officers should not attend more than they do to -the cleanliness of their men. Their garrisons on the frontiers have -uniformly suffered more from sickness than those of the British; and it -is to be attributed, I should imagine, in a great measure to their -filthiness; for the men are as stout and hardy, apparently, as any in -the world. The western army of the States has been most shamefully -appointed from the very outset. I heard General Wayne, then the -commander in chief, declare at Philadelphia, that a short time after -they had begun their march, more than one third of his men were attacked -in the woods, at the same period, with a dysentery; that the surgeons -had not even been furnished with a medicine chest; and that nothing -could have saved the greater part of the troops from death, had not one -of the young surgeons fortunately discovered, after many different -things had been tried in vain, that the bark of the root of a particular -sort of yellow poplar tree was a powerful antidote to the disorder. Many -times also, he said, his army had been on the point of suffering from -famine in their own country, owing to the carelessness of their -commissaries. So badly indeed had the army been supplied, even latterly, -with provisions, that when notice was sent to the federal general by the -British officers, that they had received orders to deliver up their -respective posts pursuant to the treaty, and that they were prepared to -do so whenever he was ready to take possession of them, an answer was -returned, that unless the British officers could supply his army with a -considerable quantity of provisions on arriving at the lakes, he could -not attempt to march for many weeks. The federal army was generously -supplied with fifty barrels of pork, as much as the British could -possibly spare; notwithstanding which, it did not make its appearance -till a considerable time after the day appointed for the delivery of the -posts. The federal army is composed almost wholly of Irishmen and -Germans, that were brought over as redemptioners, and enlisted as soon -as they landed, before they had an opportunity of learning what great -wages were given to labourers in the States. The natives of the country -are too fond of making money to rest satisfied with the pay of a common -soldier. - -The American prints, until the late treaty of amity was ratified, teemed -with the most gross abuse of the British government, for retaining -possession of Niagara Fort, and the other military posts on the lakes, -after the independence of the States had been acknowledged, and peace -concluded. It was never taken into consideration, that if the British -government had thought proper to have withdrawn its troops from the -posts at once, immediately after the definitive treaty was signed, the -works would in all probability have been destroyed by the Indians, -within whose territories they were situated, long before the people of -the States could have taken possession of them; for no part of their -army was within hundreds of miles of the posts, and the country through -which they must have past in getting to them was a mere wilderness; but -if the army had gained the posts, the states were in no condition, -immediately after the war, to have kept in them such large bodies of the -military as would have been absolutely necessary for their defence -whilst at enmity with the Indians, and it is by no means improbable, but -that the posts might have been soon abandoned. The retention of them, -therefore, to the present day, was, in fact, a circumstance highly -beneficial to the interests of the States, notwithstanding that such an -outcry was raised against the British on that account, inasmuch as the -Americans now find themselves possessed of extensive fortifications on -the frontiers, in perfect repair, without having been at the expence of -building them, or maintaining troops in them for the space of ten years, -during which period no equivalent advantages could have been derived -from their possession. It is not to be supposed, however, that the -British government meant to confer a favour on her late colonies by -retaining the posts; it was well known that the people of the new states -would be eager, sooner or later, to get possession or forts situated -within their boundary line, and occupied by strangers; and as there were -particular parts of the definitive treaty which some of the states did -not seem very ready to comply with, the posts were detained as a -security for its due ratification on the part of the States. In the late -treaty of amity and commerce, these differences were finally -accommodated to the satisfaction of Great Britain, and the posts were -consequently delivered up. On the surrender of them very handsome -compliments were paid, in the public papers throughout the States, to -the British officers, for the polite and friendly manner in which they -gave them up. The gardens of the officers were all left in full bearing, -and high preservation; and all the little conveniences were spared, -which could contribute to the comforts of the federal troops. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS] - -The generality of the people of the States were big with the idea, that -the possession of these places would be attended with the most important -and immediate advantages; and in particular they were fully persuaded, -that they would thereby at once become masters of the trade to the -lakes, and of three-fourths at least of the fur trade, which, they said, -had hitherto been so unjustly monopolized by the British merchants, to -their great prejudice. They have now got possession of them, and -perceive the futility of all these notions. - -The posts surrendered are four in number; namely, Fort Oswego, at the -mouth of Oswego River, which falls into Lake Ontario, on the south side; -Fort Niagara, at the mouth of Niagara River; Fort Detroit, on the -western bank of Detroit River; and Fort Michillimachinack, at the -straits of the same name, between Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. From -Oswego, the first of these, we derived no benefit whatever. The -neighbouring country, for miles round, was a mere forest; it was -inhabited by but few Indians, and these few carried their furs to -Cataragui or Kingston, where they got a better price for them than at -Oswego, as there were many traders there, and of course some competition -amongst them; at the same time, the river, at the mouth of which this -fort stands, was always open to the people of the States, and along it a -small trade was carried on by them between New York and Lake Ontario, -which was in no wise ever interrupted by the troops at the fort. By the -surrender of this place, therefore, they have gained nothing but what -they enjoyed before and the British government is saved the expence of -keeping up a useless garrison of fifty men. - -[Sidenote: SURRENDERED FORTS.] - -The quantity of furs collected at Niagara is considerable, and the -neighbourhood being populous, it is a place of no small trade; but the -town, in which this trade is carried on, being on the British side of -the line, the few merchants that lived within the limits of the fort -immediately crossed over to the other side, as soon as it was rumoured -that the fort was to be given up. By the possession of a solitary fort, -therefore, the people of the States have not gained the smallest portion -of this part of the lake trade; nor is it probable that any of them will -find it their interest to settle as merchants near the fort; for the -British merchants, on the opposite side, as has already been shewn, can -afford to sell their goods, brought up the St. Lawrence, on much lower -terms than what goods brought from New York can be sold at; and as for -the collecting of furs, it is not to be imagined that the Indians, who -bear such a rooted hatred to the people of the States, who are attached -to the British, and who are not a people ready to forsake their old -friends, will carry their furs over to their enemies, and give up their -connexions with the men with whom they have been in the habit of -dealing, and who can afford to pay them so much better than the traders -on the opposite side of the water. - -Detroit, of all the places which have been given up, is the most -important; for it is a town, containing at least twelve hundred -inhabitants. Since its surrender, however, a new town has been laid out -on the opposite bank of the river, eighteen miles lower down, and hither -many of the traders have removed. The majority of them stay at Detroit; -but few or none have become citizens of the States in consequence, nor -is it likely that they will, at least for some time. In the late treaty, -a particular provision for them was made; they were to be allowed to -remain there for one year, without being called on to declare their -sentiments, and if at the end of that period they chose to remain -British subjects, they were not to be molested[12] in any manner, but -suffered to carry on their trade as formerly in the fullest extent; the -portion of the fur trade, which we shall lose by the surrender of this -place, will therefore be very inconsiderable. - -Footnote 12: - - This part of the late treaty has by no means been strictly observed on - the part of the States. The officers of the federal army, without - asking permission, and contrary to the desire of several of the - remaining British inhabitants, appropriated to their own use several - of the houses and stores of those who had removed to the new town, and - declared their determination of not becoming citizens of the States; - and many of the inhabitants had been called on to serve in the - militia, and to perform duties, from which, as British subjects, they - were exempted by the articles in the treaty in their favour. When we - were at Detroit, the British inhabitants met together, and drew up a - memorial on the subject, reciting their grievances, which was - committed to our care, and accordingly presented to the British - minister at Philadelphia. - -The fourth post, Michillimachinack, is a small stockaded fort, situated -on an island. The agents of the North-west Company of merchants at -Montreal, and a few independent traders, resided within the limits of -the fort, and bartered goods there for furs brought in by different -tribes of Indians, who are the sole inhabitants of the neighbouring -country. On evacuating this place, another post was immediately -established, at no great distance, on the Island of St. Joseph, in the -Straits of St. Mary, between lakes Superior and Huron, and a small -garrison left there, which has since been augmented to upwards of fifty -men. Several traders, citizens of the States, have established -themselves at Michillimakinac but as the British traders have fixed -their new post so close to the old one, it is nearly certain that the -Indians will continue to trade with their old friends in preference, for -the reasons before mentioned. - -[Sidenote: LAKE TRADE.] - -From this statement it appears evident, that the people of the States -can only acquire by their new possession a small part of one branch of -the fur trade, namely, of that which is carried on on one of the nearer -lakes. The furs brought down from the distant regions in the north-west -to the grand portage, and from thence in canoes to Montreal along the -Utawa River, are what constitute by far the principal part, both as to -quantity and value, of those exported from Montreal; to talk, therefore, -of their acquiring possession of three-fourths of the fur trade by the -surrender of the posts on the lakes is absurd in the extreme; neither is -it likely that they will acquire any considerable share of the lake -trade in general, which, as I have already pointed out, can be carried -on by the British merchants from Montreal and Quebec, by means of the -St. Lawrence, with such superior advantage. - -It is worthy of remark, that as military posts, all those lately -established by the British are far superior, in point of situation, to -those delivered up. The ground on which the new block house is building, -on the British side of Niagara River, is nine feet higher than the top -of the stone house in the American fort, and it commands every part of -the fort. The chief strength of the old fort is on the land side; -towards the water the works are very weak, and the whole might be -battered down by a single twelve pounder judiciously planted on the -British side of the river. At present it is not proposed to erect any -other works on the British side of the river than the block house; but -should a fort be constructed hereafter, it will be placed on -Mississaguis Point, a still more advantageous situation than that on -which the block house stands, as it completely commands the entrance -into the river. - -The new post on Detroit River commands the channel much more effectually -than the old fort in the town of Detroit; vessels cannot go up or down -the river without passing within a very few yards of it. It is -remarkable, indeed, that the French, when they first penetrated into -this part of the country, fixed upon the spot chosen for this new fort, -in preference to that where Detroit stands, and they had absolutely -begun their fort and town, when the whole party was unhappily cut off by -the Indians. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -The island of St. Joseph, in the third place, is a more eligible -situation for a British military post than Michillimakinac, inasmuch as -it commands the entrance of Lake Superior, whereas Michillimakinac only -commands the entrance into Lake Michigan, which is wholly within the -territory of the United States. - -It is sincerely to be hoped, however, that Great Britain and the United -States may continue friends, and that we never may have occasion to view -those posts on the frontiers in any other light than as convenient -places for carrying on commerce. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXI. - -_Description of the River and Falls of Niagara and the Country bordering - upon the Navigable Part of the River below the Falls._ - - - Fort Chippeway, September. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - - -AT the distance of eighteen miles from the town of Niagara or Newark, -are those remarkable Falls in Niagara River, which may justly be ranked -amongst the greatest natural curiosities in the known world. The road -leading from Lake Ontario to Lake Erie runs within a few hundred yards -of them. This road, which is within the British dominions, is carried -along the top of the lofty steep banks of the river; for a considerable -way it runs close to their very edge, and in passing along it the eye of -the traveller is entertained with a variety of the most grand and -beautiful prospects. The river, instead of growing narrow as you proceed -upwards, widens considerably: at the end of nine or ten miles it expands -to the breadth of a mile, and here it assumes much the appearance of a -lake; it is enclosed, seemingly on all sides, by high hills, and the -current, owing to the great depth of the water, is so gentle as to be -scarcely perceptible from the top of the banks. It continues thus broad -for a mile or two, when on a sudden the waters are contracted between -the high hills on each side. From hence up to the falls the current is -exceedingly irregular and rapid. At the upper end of this broad part of -the river, and nearly at the foot of the banks, is situated a small -village, that has been called Queenstown, but which, in the adjacent -country, is best known by the name of “The Landing.” The lake merchant -vessels can proceed up to this village with perfect safety, and they -commonly do so, to deposit, in the stores there, such goods as are -intended to be sent higher up the country, and to receive in return the -furs, &c. that have been collected at the various ports on lakes Huron -and Erie, and sent thither to be conveyed down to Kingston, across Lake -Ontario. The portage from this place to the nearest navigable part of -Niagara River, above the Falls, is nine miles in length. - -About half way up the banks, at the distance of a few hundred yards from -Queenstown, there is a very extensive range of wooden barracks, which, -when viewed a little way off, appears to great advantage; these barracks -are now quite unoccupied, and it is not probable that they will ever be -used until the climate improves: the first troops that were lodged in -them sickened in a very few days after their arrival; many of the men -died, and had not those that remained alive been removed, pursuant to -the advice of the physicians, to other quarters, the whole regiment -might possibly have perished. - -From the town of Niagara to Queenstown, the country in the neighbourhood -of the river is very level; but here it puts on a different aspect; a -confused range of hills, covered with oaks of an immense size, suddenly -rises up before you, and the road that winds up the side of them is so -steep and rugged that it is absolutely necessary for the traveller to -leave his carriage, if he should be in one, and proceed to the top on -foot. Beyond these hills you again come to an unbroken level country; -but the soil here differs materially from that on the opposite side; it -consists of a rich dark earth intermixed with clay, and abounding with -stones; whereas, on the side next Lake Ontario, the soil is of a -yellowish cast, in some places inclining to gravel and in others to -sand. - -From the brow of one of the hills in this ridge, which overhangs the -little village of Queenstown, the eye of the traveller is gratified with -one of the finest prospects that can be imagined in nature: you stand -amidst a clump of large oaks, a little to the left of the road, and -looking downwards, perceive, through the branches of the trees with -which the hill is clothed from the summit to the base, the tops of the -houses of Queenstown, and in front of the village, the ships moored in -the river; the ships are at least two hundred feet below you, and their -masts appear like slender reeds peeping up amidst the thick foliage of -the trees. Carrying your eye forward, you may trace the river in all its -windings, and finally see it disembogue into Lake Ontario, between the -town and the fort: the lake itself terminates your view in this -direction, except merely at one part of the horizon, where you just get -a glimpse of the blue hills of Toronto. The shore of the river, on the -right hand, remains in its natural state, covered with one continued -forest; but on the opposite side the country is interspersed with -cultivated fields and neat farm houses down to the water’s edge. The -country beyond the hills is much less cleared than that which lies -towards the town of Niagara, on the navigable part of the river. - -[Sidenote: PROSPECTS.] - -From the sudden change of the face of the country in the neighbourhood -of Queenstown, and the equally sudden change in the river with respect -to its breadth, depth, and current, conjectures have been formed, that -the great falls of the river must originally have been situated at the -spot where the waters are so abruptly contracted between the hills; and -indeed it is highly probable that this was the case, for it is a fact -well ascertained, that the falls have receded very considerably since -they were first visited by Europeans, and that they are still receding -every year; but of this I shall have occasion to speak more particularly -presently. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - -It was at an early hour of the day that we left the town of Niagara or -Newark, accompanied by the attorney general and an officer of the -British engineers, in order to visit these stupendous Falls. Every step -that we advanced toward them, our expectations rose to a higher pitch; -our eyes were continually on the look out for the column of white mist -which hovers over them; and an hundred times, I believe, did we stop our -carriage in hopes of hearing their thundering sound: neither, however, -was the mist to be seen, nor the sound to be heard, when we came to the -foot of the hills; nor after having crossed over them, were our eyes or -ears more gratified. This occasioned no inconsiderable disappointment, -and we could not but express our doubts to each other, that the wondrous -accounts we had so frequently heard of the Falls were without -foundation, and calculated merely to impose on the minds of credulous -people that inhabited a distant part of the world. These doubts were -nearly confirmed, when we found that, after having approached within -half a mile of the place, the mist was but just discernible, and that -the sound even then was not to be heard; yet it is nevertheless strictly -true, that the tremendous noise of the Falls may be distinctly heard, at -times, at the distance of forty miles; and the cloud formed from the -spray may be even seen still farther off[13]; but it is only when the -air is very clear, and there is a fine blue sky, which however are very -common occurrences in this country, that the cloud can be seen at such a -great distance. The hearing of the sound of the falls afar off also -depends upon the state of the atmosphere; it is observed, that the sound -can be heard at the greatest distance, just before a heavy fall of rain, -and when the wind is in a favourable point to convey the sound toward -the listener: the day on which we first approached the falls was thick -and cloudy. - -Footnote 13: - - We ourselves, some time afterwards, beheld the cloud with the naked - eye, at no less a distance than fifty-four miles, when sailing on Lake - Erie, on board one of the king’s ships. The day on which we saw it was - uncommonly clear and calm, and we were seated on the poop of the - vessel, admiring the bold scenery of the southern shore of the lake, - when the commander, who had been aloft to make some observations, came - to us, and pointing to a small white cloud in the horizon, told us, - that that was the cloud overhanging Niagara. At first it appeared to - us that this must have been a mere conjecture, but on minute - observation it was evident that the commander’s information was just. - All the other light clouds in a few minutes, flitted away to another - part of the horizon, whereas this one remained steadily fixed in the - same spot; and on looking at it through a glass, it was plain to see - that the shape of the cloud varied every instant, owing to the - continued rising of the mist from the cataract beneath. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA RIVER.] - -On that part of the road leading to Lake Erie which draws nearest to the -falls, there is a small village, consisting of about half a dozen -straggling houses: here we alighted, and having disposed of our horses, -and made a slight repast, in order to prepare us for the fatigue we had -to go through, we crossed over some fields towards a deep hollow place -surrounded with large trees, from the bottom of which issued thick -volumes of whitish mist, that had much the appearance of smoke rising -from large heaps of burning weeds. Having come to the edge of this -hollow place, we descended a deep bank of about fifty yards, and then -walking for some distance over a wet marshy piece of ground, covered -with thick bushes, at last came to the Table Rock, so called from the -remarkable flatness of its surface, and its bearing some similitude to a -table. This rock is situated a little to the front of the great fall, -above the top of which it is elevated about forty feet. The view from it -is truly sublime; but before I attempt to give any idea of the nature of -this view, it will be necessary to take a more general survey of the -river and falls. - -Niagara River issues from the eastern extremity of Lake Erie, and after -a course of thirty-six miles discharges itself into Lake Ontario, as has -already been mentioned. For the first few miles from Lake Erie, the -breadth of the river is about three hundred yards, and it is deep enough -for vessels drawing nine or ten feet water; but the current is so -extremely rapid and irregular, and the channel so intricate, on account -of the numberless large rocks in different places, that no other vessels -than bateaux ever attempt to pass along it. As you proceed downward the -river widens, no rocks are to be seen either along the shores or in the -channel, and the waters glide smoothly along, though the current -continues very strong. The river runs thus evenly, and is navigable with -safety for bateaux as far as Fort Chippeway, which is about three miles -above the falls; but here the bed of it again becomes rocky, and the -waters are violently agitated by passing down successive rapids, so much -so indeed, that were a boat by any chance to be carried but a little way -beyond Chippeway, where people usually stop, nothing could save it from -being dashed to pieces long before it came to the falls. With such -astonishing impetuosity do the waves break on the rocks in these rapids, -that the mere sight of them from the top of the banks is sufficient to -make you shudder. I must in this place, however, observe, that it is -only on each side of the river that the waters are so much troubled; in -the middle of it, though the current is also there uncommonly swift, yet -the breakers are not so dangerous but boats may pass down, if -dexterously managed, to an island which divides the river at the very -falls. To go down to this island it is necessary to set off at some -distance above Chippeway, where the current is even, and to keep exactly -in the middle of the river the whole way thither; if the boats were -suffered to get out of their course ever so little, either to the right -or left, it would be impossible to stem the current, and bring them -again into it; they would be irresistibly carried towards the falls, and -destruction must inevitably follow. In returning from the island there -is still more difficulty and danger than in going to it. Notwithstanding -these circumstances, numbers of persons have the foolhardiness to -proceed to this island, merely for the sake of beholding the falls from -the opposite side of it, or for the sake of having in their power to say -that they had been upon it. - -[Illustration: - - _AN EYE SKETCH_ of the FALLS of NIAGARA - _I.Weld del. Neele sculp^t._ - _London Published by J. Stockdale Piccadilly 16^{th.} Nov^r. 1798._ - Click on the image to see a larger version. -] - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _of the_ HORSE-SHOE FALL _of_ NIAGARA - _I.Weld del. Neele Scupt._ - _Published by J. Stockdale Picadilly._ -] - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _of the Lesser_ FALL _of_ NIAGARA - _I.Weld del. J. Scott sculp^t._ - _Published Dec. 22, 1798, by J. Stockdale Picadilly._ -] - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - -The river forces its way amidst the rocks with redoubled impetuosity, as -it approaches towards the falls; at last coming to the brink of the -tremendous precipice, it tumbles headlong to the bottom, without meeting -with any interruption from rocks in its descent. Just at the precipice -the river takes a considerable bend to the right, and the line of the -falls, instead of extending from bank to bank in the shortest direction, -runs obliquely across. The width of the falls is considerably greater -than the width of the river, admeasured some way below the precipice; -but the annexed plan will enable you to form a better idea of their -position than any written description whatsoever. For its great accuracy -I cannot vouch, as it was done merely from the eye; such as it is, -however, I have sent it to you, conceiving it better that you should -have a plan somewhat imperfect than no plan at all. On looking it over -you will see that the river does not rush down the precipice in one -unbroken sheet, but that it is divided by islands into three distinct -collateral falls. The most stupendous of these is that on the north -western or British side of the river, commonly called the Great, or -Horse-shoe Fall, from its bearing some resemblance to the shape of a -horse shoe. The height of this is only one hundred and forty-two feet, -whereas the others are each one hundred and sixty feet high; but to its -inferior height it is indebted principally for its grandeur; the -precipice, and of course the bed of the river above it, being so much -lower at the one side than at the other, by far the greater part of the -water of the river finds its way to the low side, and rushes down with -greater velocity at that side than it does at the other, as the rapids -above the precipice are strongest there. It is from the center of the -Horse-shoe Fall that arises that prodigious cloud of mist which may be -seen so far off. The extent of the Horse-shoe Fall can only be -ascertained by the eye; the general opinion of those who have most -frequently viewed it is, that it is not less than six hundred yards in -circumference. The island which separates it from the next fall is -supposed to be about three hundred and fifty yards wide; the second fall -is about five yards wide; the next island about thirty yards; and the -third, commonly called the Fort Schloper Fall, from being situated -towards the side of the river on which that fort stands, is judged to -admeasure at least as much as the large island. The whole extent of the -precipice, therefore, including the islands, is, according to this -computation, thirteen hundred and thirty-five yards. This is certainly -not an exaggerated statement. Some have supposed, that the line of the -falls altogether exceeds an English mile. The quantity of water carried -down the falls is prodigious. It will be found to amount to 670,255 tons -per minute, though calculated simply from the following data, which -ought to be correct, as coming from an experienced commander of one of -the King’s ships on Lake Erie, well acquainted in every respect with -that body of water, viz. that where Lake Erie, towards its eastern -extremity, is two miles and a half wide, the water is six feet deep, and -the current runs at the rate of two knots in an hour; but Niagara River, -between this part of Lake Erie and the falls, receives the waters of -several large creeks, the quantity carried down the falls must therefore -be greater than the foregoing computation makes it to be; if we say that -six hundred and seventy-two thousand tons of water are precipitated down -the falls every minute, the quantity will not probably be much -overrated. - -[Sidenote: TABLE ROCK.] - -To return now to the Table Rock, situated on the British side of the -river, and on the verge of the Horse-shoe Fall. Here the spectator has -an unobstructed view of the tremendous rapids above the falls, and of -the circumjacent shores, covered with thick woods; of the Horse-shoe -Fall, some yards below him; of the Fort Schloper Fall, at a distance to -the left; and of the frightful gulph beneath, into which, if he has but -courage to approach to the exposed edge of the rock, he may look down -perpendicularly. The astonishment excited in the mind of the spectator -by the vastness of the different objects which he contemplates from -hence is great indeed, and few persons, on coming here for the first -time, can for some minutes collect themselves sufficiently to be able to -form any tolerable conception of the stupendous scene before them. It is -impossible for the eye to embrace the whole of it at once; it must -gradually make itself acquainted, in the first place, with the component -parts of the scene, each one of which is in itself an object of wonder; -and such a length of time does this operation require, that many of -those who have had an opportunity of contemplating the scene at their -leisure, for years together, have thought that every time they have -beheld it, each part has appeared more wonderful and more sublime, and -that it has only been at the time of their last visit that they have -been able to discover all the grandeur of the cataract. - -Having spent a considerable time on the Table Rock, we returned to the -fields the same way by which we had descended, pursuant to the direction -of the officer of engineers accompanying us, who was intimately -acquainted with every part of the cataract, and of the adjoining ground, -and was, perhaps, the best guide that could be procured in the whole -country. It would be possible to pursue your way along the edge of the -cliff, from the Table Rock, a considerable way downwards; but the bushes -are so exceedingly thick, and the ground so rugged, that the task would -be arduous in the extreme. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - -The next spot from which we surveyed the falls, was from the part of the -cliff nearly opposite to that end of the Fort Schloper Fall, which lies -next to the island. You stand here, on the edge of the cliff, behind -some bushes, the tops of which have been cut down in order to open the -view. From hence you have a better prospect of the whole cataract, and -are enabled to form a more correct idea of the position of the -precipice, than from any one other place. The prospect from hence is -more beautiful, but I think less grand than from any other spot. The -officer who so politely directed our movements on this occasion was so -struck with the view from this spot, that he once had a wooden house -constructed, and drawn down here by oxen, in which he lived until he had -finished several different drawings of the cataract: one of these we -were gratified with the sight of, which exhibited a view of the cataract -in the depth of winter, when in a most curious and wonderful state. The -ice at this season of the year accumulates at the bottom of the cataract -in immense mounds, and huge icicles, like the pillars of a massy -building, hang pendent in many places from the top of the precipice, -reaching nearly to the bottom. - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _of the_ FALLS _of_ NIAGARA - _J. Scott_ - _Published Dec.14 1798, by J. Stockdale_ -] - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - -Having left this place, we returned once more through the woods -bordering upon the precipice to the open fields, and then directed our -course by a circuitous path, about one mile in length, to a part of the -cliff where it is possible to descend to the bottom of the cataract. The -river, for many miles below the precipice, is bounded on each side by -steep, and in most parts perpendicular, cliffs, formed of earth and -rocks, and it is impossible to descend to the bottom of them, except at -two places, where large masses of earth and rocks have crumbled down, -and ladders have been placed from one break to another, for the -accommodation of passengers. The first of these places which you come to -in walking along the river, from the Horse-shoe Fall downwards, is -called the “Indian Ladder,” the ladders having been constructed there by -the Indians. These ladders, as they are called, of which there are -several, one below the other, consist simply of long pine trees, with -notches, cut in their sides, for the passenger to rest his feet on. The -trees, even when first placed there, would vibrate as you stepped upon -them, owing to their being so long and slender; age has rendered them -still less firm, and they now certainly cannot be deemed safe, though -many persons are still in the habit of descending by their means. We did -not attempt to get to the bottom of the cliff by this route, but -proceeded to the other place, which is lower down the river, called Mrs. -Simcoe’s Ladder, the ladders having been originally placed there for the -accommodation of the lady of the late governor. This route is much more -frequented than the other; the ladders, properly so called, are strong, -and firmly placed, and none of them, owing to the frequent breaks in the -cliff, are required to be of such a great length but what even a lady -might pass up or down them without fear of danger. To descend over the -rugged rocks, however, the whole way down to the bottom of the cliff, is -certainly no trifling undertaking, and few ladies, I believe, could be -found of sufficient strength of body to encounter the fatigue of such an -expedition. - -On arriving at the bottom of the cliff, you find yourself in the midst -of huge piles of mishapen rocks, with great masses of earth and rocks -projecting from the side of the cliff, and overgrown with pines and -cedars hanging over your head, apparently ready to crumble down and -crush you to atoms. Many of the large trees grow with their heads -downwards, being suspended by their roots, which had taken such a firm -hold in the ground at the top of the cliff, that when part of it gave -way the trees did not fall altogether. The river before you here is -somewhat more than a quarter of a mile wide; and on the opposite side of -it, a little to the right, the Fort Schloper Fall is seen to great -advantage; what you see of the Horse-shoe Fall also appears in a very -favourable point of view; the projecting cliff conceals nearly one half -of it. The Fort Schloper Fall is skirted at bottom by milk white foam, -which ascends in thick volumes from the rocks; but it is not seen to -rise above the fall like a cloud of smoke, as is the case at the -Horse-shoe Fall; never the less the spray is so considerable, that it -descends on the opposite side of the river, at the foot of Simcoe’s -Ladder, like rain. - -Having reached the margin of the river, we proceeded towards the Great -Fall, along the strand, which for a considerable part of the way thither -consists of horizontal beds of limestone rock, covered with gravel, -except, indeed, where great piles of stones have fallen from the sides -of the cliff. These horizontal beds of rock, in some places, extend very -far into the river, forming points which break the force of the current, -and occasion strong eddies along particular parts of the shore. Here -great numbers of the bodies of fishes, squirrels, foxes, and various -other animals, that, unable to stem the current of the river above the -falls, have been carried down them, and consequently killed, are washed -up. The shore is likewise found strewed with trees, and large pieces of -timber, that have been swept away from the saw mills above the falls, -and carried down the precipice. The timber is generally terribly -shattered, and the carcases of all the large animals, particularly of -the large fishes, are found very much bruised. A dreadful stench arises -from the quantity of putrid matter lying on the shore, and numberless -birds of prey, attracted by it, are always seen hovering about the -place. - -[Sidenote: FATE OF AN INDIAN.] - -Amongst the numerous stories current in the country, relating to this -wonderful cataract, there is one that records the hapless fate of a poor -Indian, which I select, as the truth of it is unquestionable. The -unfortunate hero of this tale, intoxicated, it seems, with spirits, had -laid himself down to sleep in the bottom of his canoe, which was -fastened to the beach at the distance of some miles above the falls. His -squaw sat on the shore to watch him. Whilst they were in this situation, -a sailor from one of the ships of war on the neighbouring lakes happened -to pass by; he was struck with the charms of the squaw, and instantly -determined upon enjoying them. The faithful creature, however, unwilling -to gratify his desires, hastened to the canoe to arouse her husband; but -before she could effect her purpose, the sailor cut the cord by which -the canoe was fastened, and set it adrift. It quickly floated away with -the stream from the fatal spot, and ere many minutes elapsed, was -carried down into the midst of the rapids. Here it was distinctly seen -by several persons that were standing on the adjacent shore, whose -attention had been caught by the singularity of the appearance of a -canoe in such a part of the river. The violent motion of the waves soon -awoke the Indian; he started up, looked wildly around, and perceiving -his danger, instantly seized his paddle, and made the most surprising -exertions to save himself; but finding in a little time that all his -efforts would be of no avail in stemming the impetuosity of the current, -he with great composure put aside his paddle, wrapt himself up in his -blanket, and again laid himself down in the bottom of the canoe. In a -few seconds he was hurried down the precipice; but neither he nor his -canoe were ever seen more. It is supposed that not more than one third -of the different things that happen to be carried down the falls -reappear at bottom. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - -From the foot of Simcoe’s Ladder you may walk along the strand for some -distance without inconvenience; but as you approach the Horse-shoe Fall, -the way becomes more and more rugged. In some places, where the cliff -has crumbled down, huge mounds of earth, rocks, and trees, reaching to -the water’s edge, oppose your course; it seems impossible to pass them; -and, indeed, without a guide, a stranger would never find his way to the -opposite side; for to get there it is necessary to mount nearly to their -top, and then to crawl on your hands and knees through long dark holes, -where passages are left open between the torn up rocks and trees. After -passing these mounds, you have to climb from rock to rock close under -the cliff, for there is but little space here between the cliff and the -river, and these rocks are so slippery, owing to the continual moisture -from the spray, which descends very heavily, that without the utmost -precaution it is scarcely possible to escape a fall. At the distance of -a quarter of a mile from the Great Fall we were as wet, owing to the -spray, as if each of us had been thrown into the river. - -There is nothing whatsoever to prevent you from passing to the very foot -of the Great Fall; and you might even proceed behind the prodigious -sheet of water that comes pouring down from the top of the precipice, -for the water falls from the edge of a projecting rock; and, moreover, -caverns of a very considerable size have been hollowed out of the rocks -at the bottom of the precipice, owing to the violent ebullition of the -water, which extend some way underneath the bed of the upper part of the -river. I advanced within about six yards of the edge of the sheet of -water, just far enough to peep into the caverns behind it; but here my -breath was nearly taken away by the violent whirlwind that always rages -at the bottom of the cataract, occasioned by the concussion of such a -vast body of water against the rocks. I confess I had no inclination at -the time to go farther; nor, indeed, any of us afterwards attempted to -explore the dreary confines of these caverns, where death seemed to -await him that should be daring enough to enter their threatening jaws. -No words can convey an adequate idea of the awful grandeur of the scene -at this place. Your senses are appalled by the sight of the immense body -of water that comes pouring down so closely to you from the top of the -stupendous precipice, and by the thundering sound of the billows dashing -against the rocky sides of the caverns below; you tremble with -reverential fear, when you consider that a blast of the whirlwind might -sweep you from off the slippery rocks on which you stand, and -precipitate you into the dreadful gulph beneath, from whence all the -power of man could not extricate you; you feel what an insignificant -being you are in the creation, and your mind is forcibly impressed with -an awful idea of the power of that mighty Being who commanded the waters -to flow. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - -Since the Falls of Niagara were first discovered they have receded very -considerably, owing to the disrupture of the rocks which form the -precipice. The rocks at bottom are first loosened by the constant action -of the water upon them; they are afterwards carried away, and those at -top being thus undermined, are soon broken by the weight of the water -rushing over them: even within the memory of many of the present -inhabitants of the country, the falls have receded several yards. The -commodore of the King’s vessels on Lake Erie, who had been employed on -that lake for upwards of thirty years, informed me, that when he first -came into the country it was a common practice for young men to go to -the island in the middle of the falls; that after dining there, they -used frequently to dare each other to walk into the river towards -certain large rocks in the midst of the rapids, not far from the edge of -the falls; and sometimes to proceed through the water, even beyond these -rocks. No such rocks are to be seen at present; and were a man to -advance two yards into the river from the island, he would be inevitably -swept away by the torrent. It has been conjectured, as I before -mentioned, that the Falls of Niagara were originally situated at -Queenstown; and indeed the more pains you take to examine the course of -the river from the present falls downward, the more reason is there to -imagine that such a conjecture is well founded. From the precipice -nearly down to Queenstown, the bed of the river is strewed with large -rocks, and the banks are broken and rugged; circumstances which plainly -denote that some great disruption has taken place along this part of the -river; and we need be at no loss to account for it, as there are evident -marks of the action of water upon the sides of the banks, and -considerably above their present bases. Now the river has never been -known to rise near these marks during the greatest floods; it is plain, -therefore, that its bed must have been once much more elevated than it -is at present. Below Queenstown, however, there are no traces on the -banks to lead us to imagine that the level of the water was ever much -higher there than it is now. The sudden increase of the depth of the -river just below the hills at Queenstown, and its sudden expansion there -at the same time, seem to indicate that the waters must for a great -length of time have fallen from the top of the hills, and thus have -formed that extensive deep basin below the village. In the river, a mile -or two above Queenstown, there is a tremendous whirlpool, owing to a -deep hole in the bed; this hole was probably also formed by the waters -falling for a great length of time on the same spot, in consequence of -the rocks which composed the then precipice having remained firmer than -those at any other place did. Tradition tells us, that the great fall, -instead of having been in the form of a horse shoe, once projected in -the middle. For a century past, however, it has remained nearly in the -present form; and as the ebullition of the water at the bottom of the -cataract is so much greater at the center of this fall than in any other -part, and as the water consequently acts with more force there in -undermining the precipice than at any other part, it is not unlikely -that it may remain nearly in the same form for ages to come. - -[Sidenote: NIAGARA FALLS.] - -At the bottom of the Horse-shoe Fall is found a kind of white concrete -substance, by the people of the country, called spray. Some persons have -supposed that it is formed from the earthy particles of the water, which -descending, owing to their great specific gravity, quicker than the -other particles, adhere to the rocks, and are there formed into a mass. -This concrete substance has precisely the appearance of petrified froth; -and it is remarkable, that it is found adhering to those rocks against -which the greatest quantities of the froth, that floats upon the water, -is washed by the eddies. - -We did not think of ascending the cliff till the evening was far -advanced, and had it been possible to have found our way up in the dark, -I verily believe we should have remained at the bottom of it until -midnight. Just as we left the foot of the great fall the sun broke -through the clouds, and one of the most beautiful and perfect rainbows -that ever I beheld was exhibited in the spray that arose from the fall. -It is only at evening and morning that the rainbow is seen in -perfection; for the banks of the river, and the steep precipice, shade -the sun from the spray at the bottom of the fall in the middle of the -day. - -At a great distance from the foot of the ladder we halted, and one of -the party was dispatched to fetch a bottle of brandy and a pair of -goblets, which had been deposited under some stones on the margin of the -river, in our way to the great fall, whither it would have been highly -inconvenient to have carried them. Wet from head to foot, and greatly -fatigued, there certainly was not one amongst us that appeared, at the -moment, desirous of getting the brandy, in order to pour out a libation -to the tutelary deities of the cataract; nor indeed was there much -reason to apprehend that our piety would have shone forth more -conspicuously afterwards; however it was not put to the test; for the -messenger returned in a few minutes with the woeful intelligence that -the brandy and goblets had been stolen. We were at no great loss in -guessing who the thieves were. Perched on the rocks, at a little -distance from us, sat a pair of the river nymphs, not “nymphs with -sedged crowns and ever harmless looks;” not “temperate nymphs,” but a -pair of squat sturdy old wenches, that with close bonnets and tucked up -petticoats had crawled down the cliff, and were busied with long rods in -angling for fish. Their noisy clack plainly indicated that they had been -well pleased with the brandy, and that we ought not to entertain any -hopes of recovering the spoil; we e’en slaked our thirst, therefore, -with a draught from the wholesome flood, and having done so, boldly -pushed forward, and before it was quite dark regained the habitations -from whence we had started. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -On returning we found a well-spread table laid out for us in the porch -of the house, and having gratified the keen appetite which the fatigue -we had encountered had excited, our friendly guides, having previously -given us instructions for examining the falls more particularly, set off -by moonlight for Niagara, and we repaired to Fort Chippeway, three miles -above the falls, which place we made our head-quarters while we remained -in the neighbourhood, because there was a tolerable tavern, and no house -in the village near the falls, where sickness was not prevalent. - -The Falls of Niagara are much less difficult of access now than they -were some years ago. Charlevoix, who visited them in the year 1720, -tells us, that they were only to be viewed from one spot; and that from -thence the spectator had only a side prospect of them. Had he been able -to have descended to the bottom, he would have had ocular demonstration -of the existence of caverns underneath the precipice, which he supposed -to be the case from the hollow sound of the falling of the waters; from -the number of carcases washed up there on different parts of the strand, -and would also have been convinced of the truth of a circumstance which -he totally disbelieved, namely, that fish were oftentimes unable to stem -the rapid current above the falls, and were consequently carried down -the precipice. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -The most favourable season for visiting the falls is about the middle of -September, the time when we saw them; for then the woods are seen in all -their glory, beautifully variegated with the rich tints of autumn; and -the spectator is not then annoyed with vermin. In the summer season you -meet with rattlesnakes at every step, and musquitoes swarm so thickly in -the air, that to use a common phrase of the country, “you might cut them -with a knife.” The cold nights in the beginning of September effectually -banish these noxious animals. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXII. - -_Description of Fort Chippeway.—Plan in meditation to cut a Canal to - avoid the Portage at the Falls of Niagara.—Departure from - Chippeway.—Intense Heat of the Weather.—Description of the Country - bordering on Niagara River above the Falls.—Observations on the - Climate of Upper Canada.—Rattlesnakes common in Upper Canada.—Fort - Erie.—Miserable Accommodation there.—Squirrel hunting.—Seneka - Indians.—Their Expertness at the Use of the Blow-gun.—Description of - the Blow-gun.—Excursion to the Village of the Senekas.—Whole Nation - absent.—Passage of a dangerous Sand Bar at the Mouth of Buffalo - Creek.—Sail from Fort Erie.—Driven back by a Storm.—Anchor under - Point Abineau.—Description of the Point.—Curious Sand Hills - there.—Bear hunting.—How carried on.—Dogs, what Sort of, used.—Wind_ - _changes.—The Vessel suffers from the Storm whilst at - Anchor.—Departure from Point Abineau.—General Description of Lake - Erie.—Anecdote.—Reach the Islands at the Western End of the - Lake.—Anchor there.—Description of the Islands.—Serpents of various - Kinds found there.—Rattlesnakes.—Medicinal Uses made of - them.—Fabulous Accounts of Serpents.—Departure from the - Islands.—Arrival at Malden.—Detroit River._ - - - Malden, October. - -FORT CHIPPEWAY, from whence my last letter was dated, is a small -stockaded fort, situated on the borders of a creek of the same name, -about two hundred yards distant from Niagara River. Had it been built -immediately on the latter stream, its situation would have been much -more convenient; for the water of the creek is so bad that it cannot be -drank, and the garrison is obliged to draw water daily from the river. -The fort, which occupies about one rood of ground only, consists of a -small block house, inclosed by a stockade of cedar posts about twelve -feet high, which is merely sufficient to defend the garrison against -musquet shot. Adjoining to the fort there are about seven or eight farm -houses, and some large stone houses, where goods are deposited -preparatory to their being conveyed up the river in bateaux, or across -the portage in carts, to Queenstown. It is said that it would be -practicable to cut a canal from hence to Queenstown, by means of which -the troublesome and expensive process of unlading the bateaux and -transporting the goods in carts along the portage would be avoided. Such -a canal will in all probability be undertaken one day or other; but -whenever that shall be the case, there is reason to think that it will -be cut on the New York side of the river for two reasons; first, because -the ground on that side is much more favourable for such an undertaking; -and, secondly, because the state of New York is much more populous, and -far better enabled to advance the large sums of money that would be -requisite for cutting a canal through such rugged ground as borders upon -the river, than the province of Upper Canada either is at present, or -appears likely to be. - -[Sidenote: FORT CHIPPEWAY.] - -About fifteen men, under the command of a lieutenant, are usually -quartered at Fort Chippeway, who are mostly employed in conducting, in -bateaux from thence to Fort Erie, the stores for the troops in the upper -country, and the presents for the Indians. - -After we had gratified our curiosity in regard to the wonderous objects -in the neighbourhood, at least as far as our time would permit, we were -obligingly furnished with a bateau by the officer at Fort Chippeway, to -whom we carried letters, to convey us to Fort Erie. My companions -embarked in it with our baggage, when the morning appointed for our -departure arrived; but desirous of taking one more look at the Falls, I -staid behind, determining to follow them on foot in the course of the -day; I accordingly walked down to the falls from Fort Chippeway after -breakfast, spent an hour or two there, returned to the fort, and having -stopped a short time to rest myself after the fatigues of climbing the -steeps about the falls, I set out for Fort Erie, fifteen miles distant -from Chippeway, accompanied by my faithful servant Edward, who has -indeed been a treasure to me since I have been in America. The day was -by no means favourable for a pedestrian expedition; it was intensely -hot, and we had not proceeded far before we found the necessity of -taking off our jackets, waistcoats, and cravats, and carrying them in a -bundle on our backs. Several parties of Indians that I met going down -the river in canoes were stark naked. - -The banks of Niagara River, between Chippeway and Fort Erie, are very -low, and covered, for the most part, with shrubs, under whole shade, -upon the gravelly beach of the river, the weary traveller finds an -agreeable resting place. For the first few miles from Chippeway there -are scarcely any houses to be seen; but about half way between that -place and Fort Erie they are thickly scattered along the banks of the -river. The houses in this neighbourhood were remarkably well built, and -appeared to be kept in a state of great neatness; most of them were -sheathed with boards, and painted white. The lands adjoining them are -rich, and were well cultivated. The crops of Indian corn were still -standing here, which had a most luxuriant aspect; in many of the fields -there did not appear to be a stem less than eight feet in height. -Between the rows they sow gourds, squashes, and melons, of which last -every sort attains to a state of great perfection in the open air -throughout the inhabited parts of the two provinces. Peaches in this -part of the country likewise come to perfection in the open air, but in -Lower Canada, the summers are too short to permit them to ripen -sufficiently. The winters here are very severe whilst they last, but it -is seldom that the snow lies longer than three months on the ground. The -summers are intensely hot, Fahrenheit’s thermometer often rising to 96°, -and sometimes above 100°. - -[Sidenote: INTENSE HEAT.—SNAKES.] - -As I passed along to Fort Erie I killed a great many large snakes of -different sorts that I found basking in the sun. Amongst them I did not -find any rattlesnakes: these reptiles, however, are very commonly met -with here; and at the distance of twenty or thirty miles from the river, -up the country, it is said that they are so numerous as to render the -surveying of land a matter of very great danger. It is a circumstance -strongly in favour of Lower Canada, that the rattlesnake is not found -there; it is seldom found, indeed, to the northward of the forty-fifth -parallel of north latitude. - -Fort Erie stands at the eastern extremity of Lake Erie; it is a small -stockaded fort, somewhat similar to that at Chippeway; and adjoining it -are extensive stores as at Chippeway, and about half a dozen miserable -little dwellings. On arriving there I had no difficulty in discovering -my companions; I found them lodged in a small log-house, which contained -but the one room, and just sitting down to a supper, they had procured -through the assistance of a gentleman in the Indian department, who -accompanied them from Chippeway. This habitation was the property of an -old woman, who in her younger days had followed the drum, and now gained -her livelihood by accommodating, to the best of her power, such -travellers as passed by Fort Erie. A sorry habitation it was; the crazy -door was ready to drop off the hinges, and in all the three windows of -it not one pane of glass was there, a young gentleman from Detroit -having amused himself, whilst detained in the place by contrary winds, -some little time before our arrival, with shooting arrows through them. -It was not likely that these windows would be speedily repaired, for no -glazier was to be met with nearer than Newark, thirty-six miles distant. -Here, as we lay folded in our skins on the floor, the rain beat in upon -us, and the wind whistled about our ears; but this was not the worst. In -the morning we found it a difficult matter to get wherewith to satisfy -our hunger; dinner was more difficult to be had than breakfast, supper -than dinner; there seemed to be a greater scarcity of provisions also -the second day than there was on the first. At last, fearing that we -should be famished if we remained longer under the care of old mother -Palmer, we embarked at once on board the vessel of war in which we -intended to cross the lake, where although sometimes tossed about by the -raging contrary winds, yet we had comfortable births, and fared -plenteously every day. - -[Sidenote: FORT ERIE.] - -Ships lie opposite to Fort Erie, at the distance of about one hundred -yards from the shore; they are there exposed to all the violence of the -westerly winds, but the anchorage is excellent, and they ride in perfect -safety. Three vessels of war, of about two hundred tons, and carrying -from eight to twelve guns each, besides two or three merchant vessels, -lay wind bound whilst we remained here. The little fort, with the -surrounding houses built on the rocky shore, the vessels lying at anchor -before it, the rich woods, the distant hills on the opposite side of the -lake, and the vast lake itself, extending to the farthest part of the -horizon, altogether formed an interesting and beautiful scene. - -[Sidenote: SQUIRREL HUNTING.] - -Whilst we were detained here by contrary winds, we regularly went on -shore after breakfast to take a ramble in the woods; oftentimes also we -amused ourselves with the diversion of hunting squirrels with dogs, -amongst the shrubs and young trees on the borders of the lake, thousands -of which animals we found in the neighbourhood of the fort. The -squirrels, alarmed by the barking of the dogs, leap from tree to tree -with wonderful swiftness; you follow them closely, shaking the trees, -and striking against the branches with poles. Sometimes they will lead -you a chace of a quarter of a mile and more; but sooner or later, -terrified by your attentive pursuit, make a false leap, and come to the -ground; the dogs, ever on the watch, then seize the opportunity to lay -hold of them; frequently, however, the squirrels will elude their -repeated snaps, and mount another tree before you can look round you. I -have seldom known them to be hurt by their fall, notwithstanding that I -have many times seen them tumble from branches of trees upwards of -twenty feet from the ground. - -In our rambles we used frequently to fall in with parties of the Seneka -Indians, from the opposite side of the lake, that were amusing -themselves with hunting and shooting these animals. They shot them -principally with bows and blow-guns, at the use of which last the -Senekas are wonderfully expert. The blow-gun is a narrow tube, commonly -about six feet in length, made of a cane reed, or of some pithy wood, -through which they drive short slender arrows by the force of the -breath. The arrows are not much thicker than the lower string of a -violin; they are headed generally with little triangular bits of tin, -and round the opposite ends, for the length of two inches, a quantity of -the down of thistles, or something very like it, is bound, so as to -leave the arrows at this part of such a thickness that they may but -barely pass into the tube. The arrows are put in at the end of the tube -that is held next to the mouth, the down catches the breath, and with a -smart puff they will fly to the distance of fifty yards. I have followed -young Seneka Indians, whilst shooting with blow-guns, for hours -together, during which time I have never known them once to miss their -aim, at the distance of ten or fifteen yards, although they shot at the -little red squirrels, which are not half the size of a rat; and with -such wonderful force used they to blow forth the arrows, that they -frequently drove them up to the very thistle-down through the heads of -the largest black squirrels. The effect of these guns appears at first -like magic. The tube is put to the mouth, and in the twinkling of an eye -you see the squirrel that is aimed at fall lifeless to the ground; no -report, not the smallest noise even, is to be heard, nor is it possible -to see the arrow, so quickly does it fly, until it appears fastened in -the body of the animal. - -The Seneka is one of the six nations which formerly bore the general -name of the Iroquois Indians. Their principal village is situated on -Buffalo Creek, which falls into the eastern extremity of Lake Erie, on -the New York shore. We took the ship’s boat one morning, and went over -to visit it, but all the Indians, men, women, and children, amounting in -all to upwards of six hundred persons, had, at an early hour, gone down -to Fort Niagara, to partake of a feast which was there prepared for -them. We walked about in the neighbourhood of the village, dined on the -grass on some cold provisions that we had taken with us, and in the -evening, returned. - -[Sidenote: BUFFALO CREEK.] - -Opposite to the mouth of Buffalo Creek there is a very dangerous sand -bar, which at times it is totally impossible to pass in any other -vessels than bateaux; we found it no easy matter to get over it in the -ship’s long boat with four oars on going into the creek; and in -returning the passage was really tremendous. The wind, which was -westerly, and of course impelled the vast body of water in the lake -towards the mouth of the creek, had increased considerably whilst we had -been on shore, and the waves had begun to break with such fury over the -bar, that it was not without a considerable share of terror that we -contemplated the prospect of passing through them: the commodore of the -King’s ships on the lake, who was at the helm, was determined, however, -to cross the bar that night, and accordingly, a strict silence having -been enjoined, that the crew might hear his orders, we boldly entered -into the midst of the breakers: the boat now rolled about in a most -alarming manner; sometimes it mounted into the air on the top of the -mighty billows, at other times it came thumping down with prodigious -force on the bar; at last it stuck quite fast in the sand; neither oars -nor rudder were any longer of use, and for a moment we gave ourselves -over for lost; the waves that rolled towards us broke on all sides with -a noise like that of thunder, and we were expecting that the boat would -be overwhelmed by some one or other of them every instant, when luckily -a large wave, that rolled on a little farther than the rest without -breaking into foam, let us again afloat, and the oarsmen making at that -moment the most vigorous exertions, we once more got into deep water; it -was not, however, until after many minutes that we were safely out of -the tremendous surf. A boat, with a pair of oars only, that attempted to -follow us, was overwhelmed in an instant by a wave which broke over her: -it was in vain to think of attempting to give any assistance to her -crew, and we were obliged for a time to endure the painful thought that -they might be struggling with death within a few yards of us; but before -we lost sight of the shore we had the satisfaction of beholding them all -standing in safety on the beach, which they had reached by swimming. - -After having been detained about seven days at Fort Erie, the wind -veered about in our favour, the signal gun was fired, the passengers -repaired on board, and at half an hour before sun-set we launched forth -into the lake. It was much such another evening as that on which we left -Kingston; the vast lake, bounded only by the horizon, glowed with the -rich warm tints that were reflected in its unruffled surface from the -western sky; and the top of the tall forest, adorning the shores, -appeared fringed with gold, as the sun sunk down behind it. There was -but little wind during the first part of the night; but afterwards a -fresh breeze sprang up, and by ten o’clock the next morning we found -ourselves forty miles distant from the fort: the prosperous gale, -however, did not long continue, the sky became overcast, the waves began -to roll with fury, and the captain judging it advisable to seek a place -of shelter against the impending storm, the ship was put about, and with -all possible expedition measured back the way which we had just made -with so much pleasure. We did not return, however, the whole way to Fort -Erie, but run into a small bay on the same side of the lake, about ten -miles distant, sheltered by Point Abineau: by three o’clock in the -afternoon the vessel was safely moored, and this business having been -accomplished, we proceeded in the long boat to the shore, which was -about two miles off. - -[Sidenote: POINT ABINEAU.] - -Point Abineau is a long narrow neck of land, which projects into the -lake nearly in a due south direction; on each side of it there is an -extensive bay, which affords good anchorage; the extremity of the point -is covered with rocks, lying horizontally in beds, and extending a -considerable way into the lake, nearly even with the surface of the -water, so that it is only in a few places that boats can approach the -shore. The rocks are of a slate colour, but spotted and streaked in -various directions with a dirty yellow; in many places they are -perforated with small holes, as if they had been exposed to the action -of fire. The shores of the bays, on the contrary, are covered with sand; -on digging to the depth of a few feet, however, I should imagine that in -most parts of the shore the same sort of rocks would be found as those -seen on the extremity of the point; for where the sandy part of the -shore commences, it is evident that the rocks have been covered by the -sand which has been washed up by the waves of the lake: the northern -shore of the lake abounds very generally with rocks of the same -description. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -On the western side of Point Abineau the strand differs in no wise, to -appearance, from that of the ocean: it is strewed with a variety of -shells of a large size; quantities of gulls are continually seen -hovering over it; and during a gale of wind from the west, a surge -breaks in upon it, as tremendous as is to be seen on any part of the -coast of England. The mounds of sand accumulated on Point Abineau are -truly astonishing; those next to the lake, that have been washed by the -storms of late years, are totally devoid of verdure; but others, -situated behind them, towards the center of the point, seem coeval with -the world itself, and are covered with oaks of the largest size from top -to bottom. In general these mounds are of an irregular form; but in some -places, of the greatest height, they are so even and straight that it -appears as if they had been thrown up by the hand of art, and you may -almost fancy them to be the old works of some vast fortification. These -regular mounds extend in all directions, but chiefly from north to -south, which demonstrates that westerly winds were as prevalent formerly -in this part of the country as they are at the present day. I should -suppose that some of these mounds are upwards of one hundred feet above -the level of the lake. - -The ground on the eastern side of the point is neither so much broken -nor so sandy as that on the opposite one, and there we found two farm -houses, adjoining to each of which were about thirty acres of cleared -land. At one of these we procured a couple of sheep, some fowls, and a -quantity of potatoes, to add to our store of provisions, as there was -reason to apprehend that our voyage would not be speedily terminated: -whilst the men were digging for the latter, the old woman of the house -spread her little table, and prepared for us the best viands which her -habitation afforded, namely, coarse cake bread, roasted potatoes, and -bear’s flesh salted, which last we found by no means unpalatable. The -haunch of a young cub is a dish much esteemed, and we frequently met -with it at table in the upper country; it is extremely rich and oily, -nevertheless they say it never cloys the stomach. - -Towards evening we returned to the vessel, and the storm being much -abated, passed, not an uncomfortable night. - -[Sidenote: BEAR HUNTING.] - -At day-break the next morning I took the boat, and went on shore to join -a party that, as I had been informed the preceding evening, was going a -bear hunting. On landing, I found the men and dogs ready, and having -loaded our guns we advanced into the woods. The people here, as in the -back parts of the United States, devote a very great part of their time -to hunting, and they are well skilled in the pursuit of game of every -description. They shoot almost universally with the rifle gun, and are -as dextrous at the use of it as any men can be. The guns used by them -are all imported from England. Those in most estimation carry balls of -the size of thirty to the pound; in the States the hunters very commonly -shoot with balls of a much smaller size, sixty of them not weighing more -than one pound; but the people in Canada are of opinion that it is -better to use the large balls, although more troublesome to carry -through the woods, as they inflict much more destructive wounds than the -others, and game seldom escapes after being wounded by them. Dogs of a -large size are chosen for bear hunting: those most generally preferred -seem to be of a breed between the blood hound and mastiff; they will -follow the scent of the bear, as indeed most field dogs will, but their -chief use is to keep the bear at bay when wounded, or to follow him if -he attempt to make off whilst the hunter is reloading his gun. Bears -will never attempt to attack a man or a dog while they can make their -escape, but once wounded or closely hemmed in they will fight most -furiously. The young ones, at sight of a dog, generally take to a tree; -but the old ones, as if conscious of their ability to fight a dog, and -at the same time that they cannot fail of becoming the prey of the -hunter if they ascend a tree, never do so, unless indeed they see a -hunter coming towards them on horseback, a sight which terrifies them -greatly. - -The Indians generally go in large parties to hunt bears, and on coming -to the place where they suppose these animals are lurking, they form -themselves into a large circle, and as they advance endeavour to rouse -them. It is seldom that the white hunters muster together in sufficient -numbers to pursue their game in this manner; but whenever they have men -enough to divide themselves so, they always do it. We proceeded in this -manner at Point Abineau, where three or four men are amply sufficient to -hem in a bear between the water and the main land. The point was a very -favourable place for hunting this year, for the bears, intent, as I -before mentioned, upon emigrating to the south, used, on coming down -from the upper country, to advance to the extreme end of the point, as -if desirous of getting as near as possible by land to the opposite side -of the lake, and scarcely a morning came but what one or two of them -were found upon it. An experienced hunter can at once discern the track -of a bear, deer, or any other large animal, in the woods, and can tell -with no small degree of precision how long a time before, it was, that -the animal passed that way. On coming to a long valley, between two of -the sand hills on the point, a place through which the bears generally -passed in going towards the water, the hunters whom I accompanied at -once told how many bears had come down from the upper country the -preceding night, and also how many of them were cubs. To the eye of a -common observer the track of these animals amongst the leaves is wholly -imperceptible; indeed, in many instances, even after the hunters had -pointed them out to me, I could but barely perceive the prints of their -feet on the closest inspection; yet the hunters, on coming up to the -place, saw these marks with a glance of the eye. - -[Sidenote: BEAR HUNTING.] - -After killing a bear, the first care of the hunters is to strip him of -his skin. This business is performed by them in a very few minutes, as -they always carry knives about them particularly suited for the purpose; -afterwards the carcase is cut up, an operation in which the tomahawk, an -instrument that they, mostly, carry with them also, is particularly -useful. The choicest parts of the animal are then selected and carried -home, and the rest left in the woods. The Indians hold the paws of the -bear in great estimation; stewed with young puppies, they are served up -at all their principal feasts. On killing the animal, the paws are -gashed with a knife, and, afterwards, hung over a fire, amidst the -smoke, to dry. The skins of the bears are applied to numberless uses, in -the country, by the farmers, who set no small value upon them. They are -commonly cured by being spread upon a wall or between two trees, before -the sun, and in that position scraped with a knife, or piece of iron, -daily, which brings out the grease or oil, a very considerable quantity -of which oozes from them. Racoon and deer skins, &c. are cured in a -similar manner. The Indians have a method of dressing these different -skins with the hair on, and of rendering them at the same time as -pliable as a piece of cloth; this is principally effected by rubbing the -skins, with the hand, in the smoke of a wood fire. - -Towards the middle of the day, the hunt being over, the party returned -to the habitation on the point. On arriving there I found my companions, -who had just come on shore, and after having strolled about the woods -for a time, we all went on board the ship to dine. - -[Sidenote: BIRDS.] - -The sky had been very gloomy the whole of this day; it became more and -more so as the evening approached, and the seamen foretold that before -morning there would be a dreadful storm. At no time a friend to the -watery element, I immediately formed the resolution of passing the night -on shore; accordingly having got the boat manned after dinner, I took -with me my servant, and landed at the head of the bay on the eastern -side of the point. Here being left to ourselves, we pitched our tent by -moonlight, under the shelter of one of the steep sand hills; and having -kindled a large fire in the front of it, laid down, and were soon lulled -to repose by the hollow roar of the wind amidst the tall trees of the -surrounding forest. Not so my companions, who visited me at an early -hour the next morning, and lamented sorely that they had not accompanied -me on shore. There had been a tremendous sea running in the lake all -night; the wind had shifted somewhat to the southward, and Point -Abineau, in consequence, affording but little protection to the vessel, -she had rolled about in a most alarming manner: one of the stancheons at -her bow started by her violent working; the water came pouring in as -from a pump; a scene of confusion ensued, and the sailors were kept -busily employed the greater part of the night in stopping the leak. The -vessel being old, crazy, and on her last voyage, serious apprehensions -were entertained lest some worse accident should befal her before -morning, and neither the crew nor the passengers felt themselves at all -easy until day-light appeared, when the gale abated. We amused ourselves -this morning in rambling through the woods, and along the shores of the -lake, with our fowling pieces. On the strand we found great numbers of -gulls, and different birds of prey, such as hawks, kites, &c.; here also -we met with large flocks of sand larks, as they are called by the people -of the country, in colour somewhat resembling the grey lapwing; their -walk and manner also are so very similar, that, when on the ground, they -might be taken for the same bird were they but of a larger size; they -are not much bigger than a sparrow. In the woods we fell in for the -first time with a large covey or flock of spruce partridges or -pheasants, as the people call them in this neighbourhood. In colour, -they are not much unlike the English partridge, but of a larger size, -and their flesh differs in flavour little from that of the English -pheasant. They are different in many respects both from the partridge -and pheasant found in Maryland and in the middle states, but in none -more so than in their wonderful tameness, or rather stupidity. Before -the flock took to flight I shot three birds singly from off one tree, -and had I but been acquainted with the proper method of proceeding at -the time, it is possible I might have shot them all in turn. It seems -you must always begin by shooting the bird that sits lowest on the tree, -and so proceed upwards, in which case the survivors are not at all -alarmed. Ignorant, however, of this secret, I shot at one of the -uppermost birds, and the disturbance that he made in falling through the -branches on which the others were perched put the flock to flight -immediately. - -On returning from our ramble in the woods to the margin of the lake, we -were agreeably surprised to find the wind quite favourable for -prosecuting our voyage, and in a few minutes afterwards heard the signal -gun, and saw the ship’s boat coming for the purpose of taking us from -shore. We got on board in time for dinner, but did not proceed on our -voyage until midnight; so high a sea still continued running in the -lake, that the captain thought it imprudent to venture out of the bay -before that time. In the morning we found ourselves under the rich bold -lands on the southern side of the lake; the water was smooth, the sky -serene, and every one felt pleased with the voyage. It was on this day -that we beheld the cloud over the Falls of Niagara, as I before -mentioned, at the great distance of fifty-four miles. - -[Sidenote: LAKE ERIE.] - -Lake Erie is of an elliptical form; in length about three hundred miles, -and in breadth, at the widest part, about ninety. The depth of water in -this lake is not more than twenty fathoms, and in calm weather vessels -may securely ride at anchor in any part of it; but when stormy, the -anchorage in an open part of the lake is not safe, the lands at bottom -not being firm, and the anchors apt therefore to lose their hold. -Whenever there is a gale of wind the waters immediately become turbid, -owing to the quantity of yellow sand that is washed up from the bottom -of the lake; in calm weather the water is clear, and of a deep greenish -colour. The northern shore of the lake is very rocky, as likewise are -the shores of the islands, of which there are several clusters towards -the western extremity of the lake; but along most parts of the southern -shore is a fine gravelly beach. The height of the land bordering on the -lake is very unequal; in some places long ranges of steep mountains rise -from the very edge of the water; in others the shores are so flat and so -low, that when the lake is raised a little above its usual level, in -consequence of a strong gale of wind setting in towards the shore, the -country is deluged for miles. - -[Sidenote: INUNDATION.] - -A young gentleman, who was sent in a bateau with dispatches across the -lake, not long before we passed through the country, perished, with -several of his party, owing to an inundation of this sort that took -place on a low part of the shore. I must here observe, that when you -navigate the lake in a bateau, it is customary to keep as close as -possible to the land; and whenever there is any danger of a storm, you -run the vessel on shore, which may be done with safety, as the bottom of -it is perfectly flat. I before mentioned the peculiar advantage of a -bateau over a keel boat in this respect. The young gentleman alluded to -was coasting along in this manner, when a violent storm suddenly arose. -The bateau was instantaneously turned towards the shore; unfortunately, -however, in running her upon the beach some mismanagement took place, -and she overset. The waves had already begun to break in on the shore -with prodigious impetuosity; each one of them rolled farther in than the -preceding one; the party took alarm, and instead of making as strenuous -exertions as it was supposed they might have made, to right the bateau, -they took a few necessaries out of her, and attempted to save themselves -by flight; but so rapidly did the water flow after them, in consequence -of the increasing storm, that before they could proceed far enough up -the country to gain a place of safety, they were all overwhelmed by it, -two alone excepted, who had the presence of mind and ability to climb a -lofty tree. To the very great irregularity of the height of the lands on -both sides of it, is attributed the frequency of storms on Lake Erie. -The shores of Lake Ontario are lower and more uniform than those of any -of the other lakes; and that lake is the most tranquil of any, as has -already been noticed. - -There is a great deficiency of good harbours along the shores of this -Lake. On its northern side there are but two places which afford shelter -to vessels drawing more than seven feet water, namely, Long Point and -Point Abineau; and these only afford a partial shelter. If the wind -should shift to the southward whilst vessels happen to be lying under -them, they are thereby exposed to all the dangers of a rocky lee shore. -On the southern shore, the first harbour you come to in going from Fort -Erie, is that of Presqu’ Isle. Vessels drawing eight feet water may -there ride in perfect safety; but it is a matter of no small difficulty -to get into the harbour, owing to a long sand bar which extends across -the mouth of it. Presqu’ Isle is situated at the distance of about sixty -miles from Fort Erie. Beyond this, nearly midway between the eastern and -western extremities of the lake, there is another harbour, capable of -containing small vessels, at the mouth of Cayahega River, and another at -the mouth of Sandusky River, which falls into the lake within the -north-western territory of the States. It is very seldom that any of -these harbours are made use of by the British ships; they, indeed, trade -almost solely between Fort Erie and Detroit River; and when in -prosecuting their voyages they chance to meet with contrary winds, -against which they cannot make head, they for the most part return to -Fort Erie, if bound to Detroit River; or to some of the bays amidst the -clusters of islands situated towards the western extremity of the lake, -if bound to Fort Erie. In going up the lake, it very often happens that -vessels, even after they have got close under these islands, the nearest -of which is not less than two hundred and forty miles from Fort Erie, -are driven back by storms the whole way to that fort. Just as we were -preparing to cast anchor under Middle Island, one of the nearest of -them, a squall suddenly arose, and it was not without very great -difficulty that we could keep our station: the captain told us -afterwards, that he really feared at one time, that we should have been -driven back to our old quarters. - -[Sidenote: ISLANDS.] - -It was about two o’clock on the third day from that of our quitting -Point Abineau, that we reached Middle Island. We lay at anchor until the -next morning, when the wind shifted a few points in our favour, and -enabled us to proceed some miles farther on, to a place of greater -safety, sheltered by islands on all sides; but beyond this the wind did -not permit us to advance for three days. It is very seldom that vessels -bound from Fort Erie to any place on Detroit River accomplish their -voyage without stopping amongst these islands; for the same wind -favourable for carrying them from the eastern to the western extremity -of the lake will not waft them up the river. The river runs nearly in a -south-west direction; its current is very strong; and unless the wind -blows fresh, and nearly in an opposite direction to it, you cannot -proceed. The navigation of Lake Erie, in general, is very uncertain; and -passengers that cross it in any of the King’s, or principal merchant -vessels, are not only called upon to pay double the sum for their -passage, demanded for that across Lake Ontario, but anchorage money -besides, that is, a certain sum per diem as long as the vessel remains -wind bound at anchor in any harbour. The anchorage money is about three -dollars per day for each cabin passenger. - -The islands at the western end of the lake, which are of various sizes, -lie very close to each other, and the scenery amongst them is very -pleasing. The largest of them are not more than fourteen miles in -circumference, and many would scarcely be found to admeasure as many -yards round. They are all covered with wood of some kind or other, even -to the very smallest. The larger islands produce a variety of fine -timber, amongst which are found oaks, hiccory trees, and red cedars; the -latter grow to a much larger size than in any part of the neighbouring -country, and they are sent for even from the British settlements on -Detroit River, forty miles distant. None of these islands are much -elevated above the lake, nor are they diversified with any rising -grounds; most of them, indeed, are as flat as if they had been -overflowed with water, and in the interior parts of some of the largest -of them there are extensive ponds and marshes. The fine timber, which -these islands produce, indicates that the soil must be uncommonly -fertile. Here are found in great numbers, amongst the woods, racoons, -and squirrels; bears are also at times found upon some of the islands -during the winter season, when the lake is frozen between the main land -and the islands; but they do not remain continually, as the other -animals do. All the islands are dreadfully infested with serpents, and -on some of them rattlesnakes are so numerous, that in the height of -summer it is really dangerous to land: it was now late in September; yet -we had not been three minutes on shore on Bass Island, before several of -these noxious reptiles were seen amongst the bushes, and a couple of -them, of a large size, were killed by the seamen. - -[Sidenote: RATTLESNAKES.] - -Two kinds of rattlesnakes are found in this part of the country; the one -is of a deep brown colour, clouded with yellow, and is seldom met with -more than thirty inches in length. It usually frequents marshes and low -meadows, where it does great mischief amongst cattle, which it bites -mostly in the lips as they are grazing. The other sort is of a greenish -yellow colour, clouded with brown, and attains nearly twice the size of -the other. It is most commonly found between three and four feet in -length, and as thick as the wrist of a large man. The rattlesnake is -much thicker in proportion to its length than any other snake, and it is -thickest in the middle of the body, which approaches somewhat to a -triangular form, the belly being flat, and the back bone rising higher -than any other part of the animal. The rattle, with which this serpent -is provided, is at the end of the tail; it is usually about half an inch -in breadth, one quarter of an inch in thickness, and each joint about -half an inch long. The joint consists of a number of little cases of a -dry horny substance, inclosed one within another, and not only the -outermost of these little cases articulates with the outermost case of -the contiguous joint, but each case, even to the smallest one of all, at -the inside, is connected by a sort of joint with the corresponding case -in the next joint of the rattle. The little cases or shells lie very -loosely within one another, and the noise proceeds from their dry and -hard coats striking one against the other. It is said that the animal -gains a fresh joint to its rattle every year; of this, however, I have -great doubts, for the largest snakes are frequently found to have the -fewest joints to their rattles. A medical gentleman in the neighbourhood -of Newmarket, behind the Blue Mountains, in Virginia, had a rattle in -his possession, which contained no less than thirty-two joints; yet the -snake from which it was taken scarcely admeasured five feet; -rattlesnakes, however, of the same kind, and in the same part of the -country, have been found of a greater length with not more than ten -rattles. One of the snakes, which we saw killed on Bass Island, in Lake -Erie, had no more than four joints in its rattle, and yet it was nearly -four feet long. - -The skin of the rattlesnake, when the animal is wounded, or otherwise -enraged, exhibits a variety of beautiful tints, never seen at any other -time. It is not with the teeth which the rattlesnake uses for ordinary -purposes that it strikes its enemy, but with two long crooked fangs in -the upper jaw, which point down the throat. When about to use these -fangs, it rears itself up as much as possible, throws back its head, -drops its under jaw, and springing forward upon its tail, endeavours to -hook itself as it were upon its enemy. In order to raise itself on its -tail it coils itself up previously in a spiral line, with the head in -the middle. It cannot spring farther forward than about half its own -length. - -The flesh of the rattlesnake is as white as the most delicate fish, and -is much esteemed by those who are not prevented from tasting it by -prejudice. The soup made from it is said to be delicious, and very -nourishing. - -In my rambles about the islands under which we lay at anchor, I found -many specimens of the exuviæ of these snakes, which, in the opinion of -the country people of Upper Canada, are very efficacious in the cure of -the rheumatism, when laid over the part afflicted, and fastened down -with a bandage. The body of the rattlesnake dried to a cinder over the -fire, and then finely pulverised, and infused in a certain portion of -brandy, is also said to be a never failing remedy against that disorder. -I conversed with many people who had made use of this medicine, and they -were firmly persuaded that they were indebted to it for a speedy cure. -The liquor is taken inwardly, in the quantity of a wine glass full at -once, about three times a day. No effect, more than from taking plain -brandy, is perceived from taking this medicine on the first day; but at -the end of the second day the body of the patient becomes suffused with -a cold sweat, every one of his joints grow painful, and his limbs become -feeble, and scarcely able to support him; he grows worse and worse for a -day or two; but persevering in the use of the medicine for a few days, -he gradually loses his pains, and recovers his wonted strength of body. - -[Sidenote: VARIOUS SERPENTS.] - -Many different kinds of serpents besides rattlesnakes are found on these -islands in Lake Erie. I killed several totally different from any that I -had ever met with in any other part of the country; amongst the number -was one which I was informed was venomous in the highest degree: it was -somewhat more than three feet in length; its back was perfectly black; -its belly a vivid orange. I found it amongst the rocks on Middle Island, -and on being wounded in the tail, it turned about to defend itself with -inconceivable fury. Mr. Carver tells of a serpent that is peculiar to -these islands, called the hissing snake: “It is,” says he, “of the small -speckled kind, and about eighteen inches long. When any thing approaches -it, it flattens itself in a moment, and its spots, which are of various -dyes, become visibly brighter through rage; at the same time it blows -from its mouth with great force a subtile wind that is reported to be of -a nauseous smell, and if drawn in with the breath of the unwary -traveller will infallibly bring on a decline, that in a few months must -prove mortal, there being no remedy yet discovered which can counteract -its baneful influence.” Mr. Carver does not inform us of his having -himself seen this snake; I am tempted, therefore, to imagine, that he -has been imposed upon, and that the whole account he has given of it is -fabulous. I made very particular enquiries respecting the existence of -such a snake, from those persons who were in the habit of touching at -these islands, and neither they nor any other person I met with in the -country had ever seen or heard of such a snake, except in Mr. Carver’s -Travels. Were a traveller to believe all the stories respecting snakes -that are current in the country, he must believe that there is such a -snake as the whip snake, which, as it is said, pursues cattle through -the woods and meadows, lashing them with its tail, till overcome with -the fatigue of running they drop breathless to the ground, when it preys -upon their flesh; he must also believe that there is such a snake as the -hoop snake, which has the power of fixing its tail firmly in a certain -cavity inside of its mouth, and then of rolling itself forward like a -hoop or wheel with such wonderful velocity that neither man nor beast -can possibly escape from its devouring jaws. - -The ponds and marshes in the interior parts of these islands abound with -ducks and other wild fowl, and the shores swarm with gulls. A few small -birds are found in the woods; but I saw none amongst them that were -remarkable either for their song or plumage. - -[Sidenote: DETROIT RIVER.] - -At sun-set, on the last day of September, we left the islands, and the -next morning entered Detroit River. The river, at its mouth, is about -five miles wide, and continues nearly the same breadth for a -considerable distance. The shores are of a moderate height, and thickly -wooded; but there was nothing particularly interesting in the prospect -till we arrived within four or five miles of the new British post. Here -the banks appeared diversified with Indian encampments and villages, and -beyond them the British settlements were seen to great advantage. The -river was crowded with Indian canoes and bateaux, and several pleasure -boats belonging to the officers of the garrison, and to the traders, -that had come out in expectation of meeting us, were seen cruizing about -backwards and forwards. The two other vessels of war, which we had left -behind us at Fort Erie, as well as the trading vessels, had overtaken us -just as we entered the river, and we all sailed up together with every -bit of canvass, that we could muster, full spread. The day was -uncommonly clear, and the scene altogether was pleasing and interesting. - -The other vessels proceeded up the river to the British post; but ours, -which was laden with presents for the Indians, cast anchor opposite to -the habitation of the gentleman in the Indian department, whom I before -mentioned, which was situated in the district of Malden. He gave us a -most cordial invitation to stay at his house whilst we should remain in -this part of the country; we gladly accepted of it, and accordingly went -with him on shore. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXIII. - -_Description of the District of Malden.—Establishment of a new British - Post there.—Island of Bois Blanc.—Difference between the British and - Americans respecting the Right of Possession.—Block Houses, how - constructed.—Captain E—’s Farm.—Indians.—Description of Detroit River, - and the Country bordering upon it.—Town of Detroit.—Head Quarters of - the American Army.—Officers of the Western Army.—Unsuccessful Attempt - of the Americans to impress upon the Minds of the Indians an Idea of - their Consequence.—Of the Country round Detroit.—Doubts concerning our - Route back to Philadelphia.—Determine to go by Presqu’ Isle.—Departure - from Detroit._ - - - Malden, October. - -MALDEN is a district of considerable extent, situated on the eastern -side of Detroit River, about eighteen miles below the town of Detroit. -At the lower end of the district there are but few houses, and these -stand very widely asunder; but at the upper end, bordering upon the -river, and adjoining to the new British post that has been established -since the evacuation of Detroit, a little town has been laid out, which -already contains more than twenty houses, and is rapidly increasing. -Hither several of the traders have removed who formerly resided at -Detroit. This little town has as yet received no particular name, -neither has the new post, but they merely go under the name of the new -British post and town near the island of Bois Blanc, an island in the -river near two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth, that lies -opposite to Malden. - -[Sidenote: DETROIT.] - -When the evacuation of Detroit was first talked of, the island was -looked to as an eligible situation for the new post, and orders were -sent to purchase it from the Indians, and to take possession of it in -the name of his Britannic Majesty. Accordingly a party of troops went -down for that purpose from Detroit; they erected a small block house on -the northern extremity of it, and left a serjeant’s guard there for its -defence. Preparations were afterwards making for building a fort on it; -but in the mean time a warm remonstrance against such proceedings came -from the government of the United States[14], who insisted upon it that -the island was not within the limits of the British dominions. The -point, it was found, would admit of some dispute, and as it could not be -determined immediately, the plan of building the fort was relinquished -for the time. The block house on the island, however, still remains -guarded, and possession will be kept of it until the matter in dispute -be adjudged by the commissioners appointed, pursuant to the late treaty, -for the purpose of determining the exact boundaries of the British -dominions in this part of the continent, which were by no means clearly -ascertained by the definitive treaty of peace between the States and -Great Britain. - -Footnote 14: - - Notwithstanding that the government of the United States has thought - it incumbent upon itself to remonstrate against our taking possession - of this island, and thus to dispute every inch of ground respecting - the right to which there could be the smallest doubt, yet the - generality of the people of the States affect to talk of every such - step as idle and unnecessary, inasmuch as they are fully persuaded, in - their own minds, that all the British dominions in North America must, - sooner or later, become a part of their empire. Thus Mr. Imlay, in his - account of the north-western territory: “It is certain, that as the - country has been more opened in America, and thereby the rays of the - sun have acted more powerfully upon the earth, these benefits have - tended greatly to soften the winter season; so that peopling Canada, - for which we are much obliged to you, is a double advantage to us. - First, it is settling and populating a country that must, sooner or - later, from the natural order of things, become a part of our empire; - and secondly, it is immediately meliorating the climate of the - northern states,” &c. - - The greatest empires that have ever appeared on the face of the globe - have dissolved in the course of time, and no one acquainted with - history will, I take it for granted, presume to say that the extended - empire of Britain, all powerful as it is at present, is so much more - closely knit together than any other empire ever was before it, that - it can never fall asunder; Canada, I therefore suppose, may, with - revolving years, be disjointed from the mother country, as well as her - other colonies; but whenever that period shall arrive, which I trust - is far distant, I am humbly of opinion that it will not form an - additional knot in that extensive union of states which at present - subsist on the continent of North America; indeed, were the British - dominions in North America to be dissevered from the other members of - the empire the ensuing year, I am still tempted to imagine that they - would not become linked with the present federal American states, and - for the following reasons: - - First, because the constitution of the federal states, which is the - bond that holds them together, is not calculated for such a large - territory as that which the present states, together with such an - addition, would constitute. - - The constitution of the states is that of the people, who, through - their respective representatives assembled together at some one place, - must decide upon every measure that is to be taken for the public - weal. This place, it is evident, ought in justice to be as central as - possible to every state; the necessity, indeed, of having the place so - situated has been manifested in the building of the new federal city. - Were it not for this step, many of the most enlightened characters in - the states have given it as their opinion, that the union could not - have remained many years entire, for the states so far removed from - the seat of the legislature, before the new city was founded, had - complained grievously of the distance which their delegates had to - travel to meet congress, and had begun to talk of the necessity of a - separation of the states: and now, on the other hand, that a central - spot has been fixed upon, those states to the northward, conveniently - situated to Philadelphia, the present seat of the federal government, - say that the new city will be so far removed from them, that the - sending of delegates thither will be highly inconvenient to them, and - so much so, as to call for a separation of the union on their part. In - a former letter I stated the various opinions that were entertained by - the people of the United States on this subject, and I endeavoured to - shew that the seat of congress would be removed to the new federal - city without endangering a partition of the states; but I am fully - persuaded, that were Canada to become an independent state, and a - place were to be fixed on central to all the states, supposing her to - be one, that neither she, nor the state at the remote opposite end, - would long continue, if they ever did submit, to send their delegates - to a place so far removed, that it would require more than a fourth - part of the year for them (the delegates) to travel, even with the - utmost possible expedition, backward and forward, between the district - which they represented and the seat of congress. - - Secondly, I think the two Canadas will never become connected with the - present states, because the people of these provinces, and those of - the adjoining states, are not formed for a close intimacy with each - other. - - The bulk of the people of Upper Canada are refugees, who were driven - from the states by the persecution of the republican party; and though - the thirteen years which have passed over have nearly extinguished - every spark of resentment against the Americans in the breasts of the - people of England, yet this is by no means the case in Upper Canada; - it is there common to hear, even from the children of the refugees, - the most gross invectives poured out against the people of the states; - and the people of the frontier states, in their turn, are as violent - against the refugees and their posterity; and, indeed, whilst Canada - forms a part of the British empire, I am inclined, from what I have - seen and heard in travelling through the country, to think that this - spirit will not die away. In Lower Canada the same acrimonious temper - of mind is not observable amongst the people, excepting indeed in - those few parts of the country where inhabited parts of the states - approach closely to these of the province; but here appears to be a - general disinclination amongst the inhabitants to have any political - connection with the people of the states, and the French Canadians - affect to hold them in the greatest contempt. Added to this, the - prevalent language of the lower province, which has remained the same - for almost forty years, notwithstanding the great pains that have been - taken to change it, and which is therefore likely to remain so still, - is another obstacle in the way of any close connection between the - people of the lower province and those of the states. Even in - conducting the affairs of the provincial legislative assembly, - notwithstanding that most of the English inhabitants are well - acquainted with the French language, yet a considerable degree of - difficulty is experienced from the generality of the French delegates - being totally ignorant of the English language, which, as I have - already mentioned, they have an unconquerable aversion against - learning. - - Thirdly, I think the British dominions in North America will never be - annexed to those of the states, because they are by nature formed for - constituting a separate independent territory. - - At present the boundary line between the British dominions and the - States runs along the river St. Croix, thence along the high lands - bordering upon New England till it meets the forty-fifth parallel of - north latitude, and afterwards along the said parallel until it - strikes the River St. Lawrence, or Cataragui, or Iroquois. Now the - dominions south of the St. Lawrence are evidently not separated from - the United States by any bold determinate boundary line; I therefore - suppose that they may, in some manner, be connected with them; but the - country to the northward, bounded on the north by Hudson’s Bay, on the - east by the ocean, on the south and west by the St. Lawrence, and that - vast chain of lakes which extends to the westward, is separated from - the United States by one of the most remarkable boundary lines that is - to be found on the face of the globe between any two countries on the - same continent; and from being bounded in such a remarkable manner, - and thus detached as it were by nature from the other parts of the - continent, it appears to me that it is calculated for forming a - distinct separate state, or distinct union of states, from the present - American federal states; that is, supposing, with the revolutions of - time, that this arm of the British empire should be some time or other - lopped off. I confess it appears strange to me, that any person should - suppose, after looking attentively over a map of North America, that - the British dominions, so extensive and so unconnected with them, - could ever become joined in a political union with the present federal - states on the continent. There is more reason to imagine that the - Floridas, and the Spanish possessions to the east of the Mississippi, - will be united therewith; for as the rivers which flow through the - Spanish dominions are the only channels whereby the people of some of - the western states can convey the produce of their own country to the - ocean with convenience, it is natural to suppose that the people of - these states will be anxious to gain possession of these rivers, for - which purpose they must possess themselves of the country through - which they pass. But there are certain bounds, beyond which a - representative government cannot extend, and the ocean on the east and - south, the St. Lawrence and the lakes on the north, and the - Mississippi on the west, certainly appear to set bounds to the - jurisdiction of the government of the United States, if indeed it can - extend even so far. - -In this particular instance the dispute arises respecting the true -meaning of certain words of the treaty. “The boundary line,” it says, -“is to run through the middle of Lake Erie until it arrive at the water -communication between that lake and Lake Huron; thence along the middle -of the said water communication.” The people of the States construe the -middle of the water communication to be the middle of the most approved -and most frequented channel of the river; we, on the contrary, construe -it to be the middle of the river, provided there is a tolerable channel -on each side. Now the island of Bois Blanc clearly lies between the -middle of the river and the British main; but then the deepest and most -approved channel for ships of burthen is between the island and the -British shore. In our acceptation of the word, therefore, the island -unquestionably belongs to us; in that of the people of the States, to -them. It appears to me, that our claim in this instance is certainly the -most just; for although the best and most commodious channel be on our -side, yet the channel on the opposite side of the island is sufficiently -deep to admit through it, with perfect safety, the largest of the -vessels at present on the lakes, and indeed as large vessels as are -deemed suitable for this navigation. - -Plans for a fort on the main land, and for one on the island of Bois -Blanc, have been drawn; but as only the one fort will be erected, the -building of it is postponed until it is determined to whom the island -belongs: if within the British dominions, the fort will be erected on -the island, as there is a still more advantageous position for one there -than on the main land; in the mean time a large block house, capable of -accommodating, in every respect comfortably, one hundred men and -officers, has been erected on the main land, around which about four -acres or more of ground have been reserved for his Majesty’s use, in -case the fort should not be built on the island. - -[Sidenote: BLOCK HOUSE.] - -A block house, which I have so frequently mentioned, is a building, -whose walls are formed of thick square pieces of timber. It is usually -built two stories high, in which case the upper story is made to project -about two or three feet beyond the walls of the lower one, and loop -holes are left in the floor round the edge of it, so that if an attempt -were made to storm the house, the garrison could fire directly down upon -the heads of the assailants. Loop holes are left also in various parts -of the walls, some of which are formed, as is the case at this new block -house at Malden, of a size sufficient to admit a small cannon to be -fired through them. The loop holes are furnished with large wooden -stoppers or wedges, which in the winter season, when there is no danger -of an attack, are put in, and the interstices closely caulked, to guard -against the cold; and indeed, to render the house warm, they are obliged -to take no small pains in caulking the seams between the timber in every -part. A block house, built on the most approved plan, is so constructed, -that if one half of it were shot away, the other half would stand firm. -Each piece of timber in the roof and walls is jointed in such a manner -as to be rendered independent of the next piece to it; one wall is -independent of the next wall, and the roof is in a great measure -independent of all of them, so that if a piece of artillery were played -upon the house, that bit of timber alone against which the ball struck -would be displaced, and every other one would remain uninjured. A block -house is proof against the heaviest fire of musquetry. As these houses -may be erected in a very short time, and as there is such an abundance -of timber in every part of the country, wherewith to build them, they -are met with in North America at almost every military out-post, and -indeed in almost every fortress throughout the country. There are -several in the upper town of Quebec. - -[Sidenote: FARMS.] - -Amongst the scattered houses at the lower end of the district of Malden, -there are several of a respectable appearance, and the farms adjoining -to them are very considerable. The farm belonging to our friend, Captain -E——, under whose roof we tarry, contains no less than two thousand -acres. A very large part of it is cleared, and it is cultivated in a -style which would not be thought meanly of even in England. His house, -which is the best in the whole district, is agreeably situated, at the -distance of about two hundred yards from the river; there is a full view -of the river, and of the island of Bois Blanc, from the parlour windows, -and the scene is continually enlivened by the number of Indian canoes -that pass and repass before it. In front of the house there is a neat -little lawn, paled in, and ornamented with clumps of trees, at the -bottom of which, not far from the water, stands a large Indian wigwam, -called the council house, in which the Indians are assembled whenever -there are any affairs of importance to be transacted between them and -the officers in the Indian department. Great numbers of these people -come from the island of Bois Blanc, where no less than five hundred -families of them are encamped, to visit us daily; and we in our turn go -frequently to the island, to have an opportunity of observing their -native manners and customs. - -Our friend has told them, that we have crossed the big lake, the -Atlantic, on purpose to come and see them. This circumstance has given -them a very favourable opinion of us; they approve highly of the -undertaking, and say that we have employed our time to a good purpose. -No people on earth have a higher opinion of their own consequence; -indeed, they esteem themselves superior to every other race of men. - -We remained for a short time in Malden, and then set off for Detroit in -a neat little pleasure boat, which one of the traders obligingly lent to -us. The river between the two places varies in breadth from two miles to -half a mile. The banks are mostly very low, and in some places large -marshes extend along the shores, and far up into the country. The shores -are adorned with rich timber of various kinds, and bordering upon the -marshes, where the trees have full scope to extend their branches, the -woodland scenery is very fine. Amidst the marshes, the river takes some -very considerable bends, and it is diversified at the same time with -several large islands, which occasion a great diversity of prospect. - -[Sidenote: FRUITS.] - -Beyond Malden no houses are to be seen on either side of the river, -except indeed the few miserable little huts in the Indian villages, -until you come within four miles or thereabouts of Detroit. Here the -settlements are very numerous on both sides, but particularly on that -belonging to the British. The country abounds with peach, apple, and -cherry orchards, the richest I ever beheld; in many of them the trees, -loaded with large apples of various dyes, appeared bent down into the -very water. They have many different sorts of excellent apples in this -part of the country, but there is one far superior to all the rest, and -which is held in great estimation, called the pomme caille. I do not -recollect to have seen it in any other part of the world, though -doubtless it is not peculiar to this neighbourhood. It is of an -extraordinary large size, and deep red colour; not confined merely to -the skin, but extending to the very core of the apple: if the skin be -taken off delicately, the fruit appears nearly as red as when entire. We -could not resist the temptation of stopping at the first of these -orchards we came to, and for a few pence we were allowed to lade our -boat with as much fruit as we could well carry away. The peaches were -nearly out of season now, but from the few I tasted, I should suppose -that they were of a good kind, far superior in flavour, size, and -juiciness to those commonly met with in the orchards of the middle -states. - -The houses in this part of the country are all built in a similar style -to those in Lower Canada; the lands are laid out and cultivated also -similarly to those in the lower province; the manners and persons of the -inhabitants are the same; French is the predominant language, and the -traveller may fancy for a moment, if he pleases, that he has been wafted -by enchantment back again into the neighbourhood of Montreal or Three -Rivers. All the principal posts throughout the western country, along -the lakes, the Ohio, the Illinois, &c. were established by the French; -but, except at Detroit and in the neighbourhood, and in the Illinois -country, the French settlers have become so blended with the greater -number who spoke English, that their language has every where died away. - -[Sidenote: DETROIT.] - -Detroit contains about three hundred houses, and is the largest town in -the western country. It stands contiguous to the river, on the top of -the banks, which are here about twenty feet high. At the bottom of them -there are very extensive wharfs for the accommodation of the shipping, -built of wood, similar to those in the Atlantic sea-ports. The town -consists of several streets that run parallel to the river, which are -intersected by others at right angles. They are all very narrow, and not -being paved, dirty in the extreme whenever it happens to rain: for the -accommodation of passengers, however, there are footways in most of -them, formed of square logs, laid transversely close to each other. The -town is surrounded by a strong stockade, through which there are four -gates; two of them open to the wharfs, and the two others to the north -and south side of the town respectively. The gates are defended by -strong block houses, and on the west side of the town is a small fort in -form of a square, with bastions at the angles. At each of the corners of -this fort is planted a small field-piece; and these constitute the whole -of the ordnance at present in the place. The British kept a considerable -train of artillery here, but the place was never capable of holding out -for any length of time against a regular force: the fortifications, -indeed, were constructed chiefly as a defence against the Indians. - -Detroit is at present the head-quarters of the western army of the -States; the garrison consists of three hundred men, who are quartered in -barracks. Very little attention is paid by the officers to the minutiæ -of discipline, so that however well the men may have acquitted -themselves in the field, they make but a poor appearance on parade. The -belles of the town are quite au desespoir at the late departure of the -British troops; though the American officers tell them they have no -reason to be so, as they will find them much more sensible agreeable men -than the British officers when they know them; a style of conversation, -which, strange as it may appear to us, is yet not at all uncommon -amongst them. Three months, however, have not altered the first opinion -of the ladies. I cannot better give you an idea of the unpolished, -coarse, discordant manners of the generality of the officers of the -western army of the States, than by telling you, that they cannot agree -sufficiently amongst themselves to form a regimental mess; repeated -attempts have been made since their arrival at Detroit to establish one, -but their frequent quarrels would never suffer it to remain permanent. A -duellist and an officer of the western army were nearly synonimous -terms, at one period, in the United States, owing to the very great -number of duels that took place amongst them when cantoned at Grenville. - -[Sidenote: DETROIT.] - -About two thirds of the inhabitants of Detroit are of French extraction, -and the greater part of the inhabitants of the settlements on the river, -both above and below the town, are of the same description. The former -are mostly engaged in trade, and they all appear to be much on an -equality. Detroit is a place of very considerable trade; there are no -less than twelve trading vessels belonging to it, brigs, sloops, and -schooners, of from fifty to one hundred tons burthen each. The inland -navigation in this quarter is indeed very extensive, Lake Erie, three -hundred miles in length, being open to vessels belonging to the port, on -the one side; and lakes Michigan and Huron, the first upwards of two -hundred miles in length, and sixty in breadth, and the second, no less -than one thousand miles in circumference, on the opposite side; not to -speak of Lake St. Clair and Detroit River, which connect these former -lakes together, or of the many large rivers which fall into them. The -stores and shops in the town are well furnished, and you may buy fine -cloth, linen, &c. and every article of wearing apparel, as good in their -kind, and nearly on as reasonable terms, as you can purchase them at New -York or Philadelphia. - -The inhabitants are well supplied with provisions of every description; -the fish in particular, caught in the river and neighbouring lakes, are -of a very superior quality. The fish held in most estimation is a sort -of large trout, called the Michillimakinac white fish, from its being -caught mostly in the straits of that name. The inhabitants of Detroit -and the neighbouring country, however, though they have provisions in -plenty, are frequently much distressed for one very necessary -concomitant, namely, salt. Until within a short time past they had no -salt but what was brought from Europe; but salt springs have been -discovered in various parts of the country, from which they are now -beginning to manufacture that article for themselves. The best and most -profitable of the springs are retained in the hands of government, and -the profits arising from the sale of the salt are to be paid into the -treasury of the province. Throughout the western country they procure -their salt from springs, some of which throw up sufficient water to -yield several hundred bushels in the course of one week. - -[Sidenote: DETROIT.] - -There is a large Roman catholic church in the town of Detroit, and -another on the opposite side, called the Huron church, from its having -been devoted to the use of the Huron Indians. The streets of Detroit are -generally crowded with Indians of one tribe or other, and amongst them -you see numberless old squaws leading about their daughters, ever ready -to dispose of them, pro tempore, to the highest bidder. At night all the -Indians, except such as get admittance into private houses, and remain -there quietly, are turned out of the town, and the gates shut upon them. - -The American officers here have endeavoured to their utmost to impress -upon the minds of the Indians an idea of their own superiority over the -British; but as they are very tardy in giving these people any presents, -they do not pay much attention to their words. General Wayne, from -continually promising them presents, but at the same time always -postponing the delivery when they come to ask for them, has -significantly been nicknamed by them, General Wabang, that is General -To-morrow. - -The country around Detroit is very much cleared, and so likewise is that -on the British side of the river for a considerable way above the town. -The settlements extend nearly as far as Lake Huron; but beyond the River -La Trenche, which falls into Lake St. Clair, they are scattered very -thinly along the shores. The banks of the River La Trenche, or Thames, -as it is now called, are increasing very fast in population, as I before -mentioned, owing to the great emigration thither of people from the -neighbourhood of Niagara, and of Detroit also since it has been -evacuated by the British. We made an excursion, one morning, in our -little boat as far as Lake St. Clair, but met with nothing, either -amongst the inhabitants, or in the face of the country, particularly -deserving of mention. The country round Detroit is uncommonly flat, and -in none of the rivers is there a fall sufficient to turn even a grist -mill. The current of Detroit River itself is stronger than that of any -others, and a floating mill was once invented by a Frenchman, which was -chained in the middle of that river, where it was thought the stream -would be sufficiently swift to turn the water wheel: the building of it -was attended with considerable expence to the inhabitants, but after it -was finished it by no means answered their expectations. They grind -their corn at present by wind mills, which I do not remember to have -seen in any other part of North America. - -The soil of the country bordering upon Detroit River is rich though -light, and it produces good crops both of Indian corn and wheat. The -climate is much more healthy than that of the country in the -neighbourhood of Niagara River; intermittent fevers however are by no -means uncommon disorders. The summers are intensely hot, Fahrenheit’s -thermometer often rising above 100; yet a winter seldom passes over but -what snow remains on the ground for two or three months. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -Whilst we remained at Detroit, we had to determine upon a point of some -moment to us travellers, namely, upon the route by which to return back -towards the Atlantic. None of us felt much inclined to cross the lake -again to Fort Erie, we at once therefore laid aside all thoughts of -returning that way. Two other routes then presented themselves for our -consideration; the one was to proceed by land from Detroit, through the -north-western territory of the United States, as far as the head waters -of some one of the rivers which fall into the Ohio, having reached -which, we might afterwards have proceeded upwards or downwards, as we -found most expedient: the other was to cross by water to Presqu’ Isle, -on the south side of Lake Erie, and thence go down French Creek and the -Alleghany River, as far as Pittsburgh on the Ohio, where being arrived -we should likewise have had the choice of descending the Ohio and -Mississippi, or of going on to Philadelphia, through Pennsylvania, -according as we should find circumstances most convenient. The first of -these routes was most suited to our inclination, but we soon found that -we must give over all thoughts of proceeding by it. The way to have -proceeded would have been to set out on horseback, taking with us -sufficient provisions to last for a journey through a forest of upwards -of two hundred miles in length, and trusting our horses to the food -which they could pick up for themselves amongst the bushes. There was no -possibility of procuring horses, however, for hire at Detroit or in the -neighbourhood, and had we purchased them, which could not have been done -but at a most exorbitant price, we should have found it a difficult -matter perhaps to have got rid of them when we had ended our land -journey, unless indeed we chose to turn them adrift in the woods, which -would not have been perfectly suitable to our finances. But independent -of this consideration there was another obstacle in our way, and that -was the difficulty of procuring guides. The Indians were all preparing -to set out on their hunting excursions, and had we even been able to -have procured a party of them for an escort, there would have been some -risk, we were told, of their deserting us before we reached our -journey’s end. If they fell in on their journey with a hunting party -that had been very successful; if they came to a place where there was -great abundance of game; or, in short, if we did not proceed just -according to their fancy, impatient of every restraint, and without -caring in the least for the hire we had promised them, they would, -perhaps, leave us in the whim of moment to shift for ourselves in the -woods, a situation we had no desire to see ourselves reduced to: we -determined therefore to proceed by Presqu’ Isle. But now another -difficulty arose, namely, how we were to get there: a small vessel, a -very unusual circumstance indeed, was just about to sail, but it was so -crowded with passengers, that there was not a single birth vacant, and -moreover, if there had been, we did not wish to depart so abruptly from -this part of the country. One of the principal traders, however, at -Detroit, to whom we had carried letters, soon accommodated matters to -our satisfaction, by promising to give orders to the master of one of -the lake vessels, of which he was in part owner, to land us at that -place. The vessel was to sail in a fortnight; we immediately therefore -secured a passage in her, and having settled with the master that he -should call for us at Malden, we set off once more for that place in our -little boat, and in a few hours, from the time we quitted Detroit, -arrived there. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXIV. - -_Presents delivered to the Indians on the Part of the British - Government.—Mode of distributing them.—Reasons why given.—What is the - best Method of conciliating the good Will of the Indians.—Little pains - taken by the Americans to keep up a good Understanding with the - Indians.—Consequences thereof.—War between the Americans and - Indians.—A brief Account of it.—Peace concluded by General Wayne.—Not - likely to remain permanent.—Why.—Indian Manner of making Peace - described._ - - - Malden, October. - -[Sidenote: PRESENTS.] - - -ADJOINING to our friend’s house at Malden stands an extensive range of -storehouses, for the reception of the presents yearly made by government -to the Indians in this part of the country, in which several clerks are -kept constantly employed. Before we had been long at Malden we had an -opportunity of seeing some of the presents delivered out. A number of -chiefs of different tribes had previously come to our friend, who is at -the head of the department in this quarter, and had given to him, each, -a bundle of little bits of cedar wood, about the thickness of a small -pocket book pencil, to remind him of the exact number of individuals in -each tribe that expected to share the bounty of their great father. The -sticks in these bundles were of different lengths, the longed denoted -the number of warriors in the tribe, the next in size the number of -women, and the smallest the number of children. Our friend on receiving -them handed them over to his clerks, who made a memorandum in their -books of the contents of each bundle, and of the persons that gave them, -in order to prepare the presents accordingly. The day fixed upon for the -delivery of the presents was bright and fair, and being in every respect -favourable for the purpose, the clerks began to make the necessary -arrangements accordingly. - -A number of large stakes were first fixed down in different parts of the -lawn, to each of which was attached a label, with the name of the tribe, -and the number of persons in it, who were to be provided for; then were -brought out from the stores several bales of thick blankets, of blue, -scarlet, and brown cloth, and of coarse figured cottons, together with -large rolls of tobacco, guns, flints, powder, balls, shot, case-knives, -ivory and horn combs, looking-glasses, pipe-tomahawks, hatchets, -scissars, needles, vermilion in bags, copper and iron pots and kettles, -the whole valued at about £. 500 sterling. The bales of goods being -opened, the blankets, cloths, and cottons were cut up into small pieces, -each sufficient to make for one person a wrapper, a shirt, a pair of -leggings, or whatever else it was intended for; and the portions of the -different articles intended for each tribe were thrown together in a -heap, at the bottom of the stake which bore its name. This business took -up several hours, as there were no less than four hundred and twenty -Indians to be served. No liquor, nor any silver ornaments, except to -favourite chiefs in private, are ever given on the part of government to -the Indians, notwithstanding they are so fond of both; and a trader who -attempts to give these articles to them in exchange for the presents -they have received from government, or, indeed, who takes from them on -any conditions, their presents, is liable to a very heavy penalty for -every such act, by the laws of the province. - -[Sidenote: PRESENTS.] - -The presents having been all prepared, the chiefs were ordered to -assemble their warriors, who were loitering about the grounds at the -outside of the lawn. In a few minutes they all came, and having been -drawn up in a large circle, our friend delivered a speech on the -occasion, without which ceremony no business, according to Indian -custom, is ever transacted. In this they were told, “That their great -and good Father, who lived on the opposite side of the big lake (meaning -thereby the king) was ever attentive to the happiness of all his -faithful people; and that, with his accustomed bounty, he had sent the -presents which now lay before them to his good children the Indians; -that he had sent the guns, the hatchets, and the ammunition for the -young men, and the clothing for the aged, women, and children; that he -hoped the young men would have no occasion to employ their weapons in -fighting against enemies, but merely in hunting; and that he recommended -it to them to be attentive to the old, and to share bountifully with -them what they gained by the chace; that he trusted the great spirit -would give them bright suns and clear skies, and a favourable season for -hunting; and that when another year should pass over, if he still -continued to find them good children, he would not fail to renew his -bounties, by sending them more presents from across the big lake.” - -This speech was delivered in English, but interpreters attended, who -repeated it to the different tribes in their respective languages, -paragraph by paragraph, at the end of every one of which the Indians -signified their satisfaction by a loud coarse exclamation of “Hoah! -Hoah!” The speech ended, the chiefs were called forward, and their -several heaps were shewn to them, and committed to their care. They -received them with thanks; and beckoning to their warriors, a number of -young men quickly started from the crowd, and in less than three minutes -the presents were conveyed from the lawn, and laden on board the canoes, -in waiting to convey them to the island and adjacent villages. The -utmost regularity and propriety was manifested on this occasion in the -behaviour of every Indian; there was not the smallest wrangling amongst -them about their presents; nor was the least spark of jealousy -observable in any one tribe about what the other had received; each one -took up the heap allotted to it, and departed without speaking a word. - -[Sidenote: PRESENTS.] - -Besides the presents, such as I have described, others of a different -nature again, namely, provisions, were dealt out this year amongst -certain tribes of the Indians that were encamped on the island of Bois -Blanc. These were some of the tribes that had been at war with the -people of the United States, whose villages, fields of corn, and stores -of provisions had been totally destroyed during the contest by General -Wayne, and who having been thereby bereft of every means of support, had -come, as soon as peace was concluded, to beg for subsistence from their -good friends the British. “Our enemies,” said they, have destroyed our -villages and stores of provisions; our women and children are left -without food; do you then, who call yourselves our friends, shew us now -that you really are so, and give them food to eat till the sun ripens -our corn, and the great spirit gives another prosperous season for -hunting.” Their request was at once complied with; a large storehouse -was erected on the island, and filled with provisions at the expence of -government for their use, and regularly twice a week, the clerks in the -Indian department went over to distribute them. About three barrels of -salted pork or beef, as many of flour, beans or peas, Indian corn, and -about two carcases of fresh beef, were generally given out each time. -These articles of provision the Indians received, not in the thankful -manner in which they did the other presents, but seemingly as if they -were due to them of right. One nation they think ought never to hesitate -about giving relief to another in distress, provided it was not at -enmity with it; and indeed, were their white brethren, the British, to -be reduced by any calamity to a similar state of distress, the Indians -would with the utmost cheerfulness share with them their provisions to -the very last. - -The presents delivered to the Indians, together with the salaries of the -officers in the Indian department, are computed to cost the crown, as I -before mentioned, about £.100,000 sterling, on an average, per annum. -When we first gained possession of Canada, the expence of the presents -was much greater, as the Indians were then more numerous, and as it was -also found necessary to bestow upon them, individually, much larger -presents than are now given, in order to overcome the violent prejudices -against us which had been instilled into their minds by the French. -These prejudices having happily been removed, and the utmost harmony -having been established between them and the people on our frontiers, -presents of a less value even than what are now distributed amongst them -would perhaps be found sufficient to keep up that good understanding -which now subsists between us; it could not, however, be deemed a very -advisable measure to curtail them, as long as a possibility remained -that the loss of their friendship might be incurred thereby: and, -indeed, when we consider what a happy and numerous people the Indians -were before Europeans intruded themselves into the territories allotted -to them by nature; when we consider how many thousands have perished in -battle, embroiled in our contests for power and dominion, and how many -thousands more have perished by the use of the poisonous beverages which -we have introduced amongst them; when we consider how many artificial -wants have been raised in the minds of the few nations of them that yet -remain, and how sadly the morals of these nations have been corrupted by -their intercourse with the whites; when we consider, finally, that in -the course of fifty years more no vestige even of these once virtuous -and amiable people will probably be found in the whole of that extensive -territory which lies between the Mississippi and the Atlantic, and was -formerly inhabited solely by them; instead of wishing to lessen the -value or the number of the few trifles that we find are acceptable to -them in their present state, we ought rather to be desirous of -contributing still more largely to their comfort and happiness. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -Acceptable presents are generally found very efficacious in conciliating -the affections of any uncivilized nation: they have very great influence -over the minds of the Indians; but to conciliate their affections to the -utmost, presents alone are not sufficient; you must appear to have their -interest at heart in every respect; you must associate with them; you -must treat them as men that are your equals, and, in some measure, even -adopt their native manners. It was by such steps as these that the -French, when they had possession of Canada, gained their favour in such -a very eminent manner, and acquired so wonderful an ascendency over -them. The old Indians still say, that they never were so happy as when -the French had possession of the country; and, indeed, it is a very -remarkable fact, which I before mentioned, that the Indians, if they are -sick, if they are hungry, if they want shelter from a storm, or the -like, will always go to the houses of the old French settlers in -preference to these of the British inhabitants. The necessity of -treating the Indians with respect and attention is strongly inculcated -on the minds of the English settlers, and they endeavour to act -accordingly; but still they cannot banish wholly from their minds, as -the French do, the idea that the Indians are an inferior race of people -to them, to which circumstance is to be attributed the predilection of -the Indians for the French rather than them; they all live together, -however, on very amicable terms, and many of the English on the -frontiers have indeed told me, that if they were but half as honest, and -half as well conducted towards one another, as the Indians are towards -them, the state of society in the country would be truly enviable. - -On the frontiers of the United States little pains have hitherto been -taken by the government, and no pains by the people, to gain the good -will of the Indians; and the latter, indeed, instead of respecting the -Indians as an independent neighbouring nation have in too many instances -violated their rights as men in the most flagrant manner. The -consequence has been, that the people on the frontiers have been -involved in all the calamities that they could have suffered from an -avengeful and cruel enemy. Nightly murders, robberies, massacres, and -conflagrations have been common. They have hardly ventured to stir, at -times, beyond the walls of their little habitations; and for whole -nights together have they been kept on the watch, in arms, to resist the -onset of the Indians. They have never dared to visit their neighbours -unarmed, nor to proceed alone, in open day, on a journey of a few miles. -The gazettes of the United States have daily teemed with the shocking -accounts of the barbarities committed by the Indians, and volumes would -scarcely suffice to tell the whole of the dreadful tales. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -It has been said by persons of the States, that the Indians were -countenanced in committing these enormities by people on the British -frontiers, and liberal abuse has been bestowed on the government for -having aided, by distributing amongst them guns, tomahawks, and other -hostile weapons. That the Indians were incited by presents, and other -means, to act against the people of the colonies, during the American -war, must be admitted; but that, after peace was concluded, the same -line of conduct was pursued towards them, is an aspersion equally false -and malicious. To the conduct of the people of the States themselves -alone, and to no other cause, is unquestionably to be attributed the -continuance of the warfare between them and the Indians, after the -definitive treaty of peace was signed. Instead of then taking the -opportunity to reconcile the Indians, as they might easily have done by -presents, and by treating them with kindness, they still continued -hostile towards them; they looked upon them, as indeed they still do, -merely as wild beasts, that ought to be banished from the face of the -earth; and actuated by that insatiable spirit of avarice, and that -restless and dissatisfied turn of mind, which I have so frequently -noticed, instead of keeping within their territories, where millions of -acres remained unoccupied, but no part, however, of which could be had -without being paid for, they crossed their boundary lines, and fixed -themselves in the territory of the Indians, without ever previously -gaining the consent of these people. The Indians, nice about their -boundary line beyond any other nations, perhaps, in the world, that have -such extensive dominions in proportion to their numbers, made no scruple -to attack, to plunder, and even to murder these intruders, when a fit -opportunity offered. The whites endeavoured to repel their attacks, and -shot them with as much unconcern as they would either a wolf or a bear. -In their expeditions against the white settlers, the Indians frequently -were driven back with loss; but their ill success only urged them to -return with redoubled fury, and their well-known revengeful disposition -leading them on all occasions to seek blood for blood, they were not -merely satisfied with murdering the whole families of the settlers who -had wounded or killed their chiefs or warriors, but oftentimes, in order -to appease the manes of their comrades, they crossed their boundary line -in turn, and committed most dreadful depredations amongst the peaceable -white inhabitants in the States, who were in no manner implicated in the -ill conduct of the men who had encroached upon the Indian territories. -Here also, if they happened to be repulsed, or to lose a friend, they -returned to seek fresh revenge; and as it seldom happened that they did -escape without loss, their excesses and barbarities, instead of -diminishing, were becoming greater every year. The attention of the -government was at last directed towards the melancholy situation of the -settlers on the frontiers, and the result was, that congress determined -that an army should be raised, at the expence of the States, to repel -the foe. - -An army was accordingly raised some time about the year 1790, which was -put under the command of General St. Clair. It consisted of about -fifteen hundred men; but these were not men that had been accustomed to -contend against Indians, nor was the General, although an experienced -officer, and well able to conduct an army against a regular force, at -all qualified, as many persons had foreseen, and the event proved, to -command on an expedition of such a nature as he was now about to be -engaged in. - -St. Clair advanced with his army into the Indian territory; occasional -skirmishes took place, but the Indians still kept retreating before him, -as if incapable of making any resistance against such a powerful force. -Forgetful of the stratagems of the artful enemy he had to contend with, -he boldly followed, till at last, having been drawn far into their -territory, and to a spot suitable to their purpose, the Indians attacked -him on all sides; his men were thrown into confusion; in vain he -attempted to rally them. The Indians, emboldened by the disorder they -saw in his ranks, came rushing down with their tomahawks and scalping -knives. A dreadful havoc ensued. The greater part of the army was left -dead on the fatal field; and of those that escaped the knife, the most -were taken prisoners. All the cannon, ammunition, baggage, and horses of -St. Clair’s army fell into the hands of the Indians on this occasion. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN WARFARE.] - -A great many young Canadians, and in particular many that were born of -Indian women, fought on the side of the Indians in this action, a -circumstance which confirmed the people of the States in the opinion -they had previously formed, that the Indians were encouraged and abetted -in their attacks upon them by the British. I can safely affirm, however, -from having conversed with many of these young men who fought against -St. Clair, that it was with the utmost secrecy they left their homes to -join the Indians, fearful lest the government should censure their -conduct; and that in espousing the quarrel of the Indians, they were -actuated by a desire to assist a people whom they conceived to be -injured, more than by an unextinguished spirit of resentment against -men, whom they had formerly viewed in the light of rebels. - -As the revenge of the Indians was completely glutted by this victory -over St. Clair, it is not improbable, but that if pains had been taken -immediately to negociate a peace with them, it might have been obtained -on easy terms; and had the boundary line then determinately agreed upon -been faithfully observed afterwards by the people of the States, there -is great reason to imagine that the peace would have been a permanent -one. As this, however, was a questionable measure, and the general -opinion was, that a peace could be made on better terms if preceded by a -victory on the part of the States, it was determined to raise another -army. Liberal supplies for that purpose were granted by congress, and -three thousand men were soon collected together. - -Great pains were taken to enlist for this new army men from Kentucky, -and other parts of the frontiers, who had been accustomed to the Indian -mode of fighting; and a sufficient number of rifle-men from the frontier -were collected, to form a very large regiment. The command of the new -army was given to the late General Wayne. Upon being appointed to it, -his first care was to introduce strict discipline amongst his troops; he -afterwards kept the army in motion on the frontier, but he did not -attempt to penetrate far into the Indian country, nor to take any -offensive measures against the enemy for some time. This delay the -General conceived would be attended with two great advantages; first, it -would serve to banish from the minds of his men all recollection of the -defeat of the late army; and secondly, it would afford him an -opportunity of training perfectly to the Indian mode of fighting such of -his men as were ignorant of it; for he saw no hopes of success but in -fighting the Indians in their own way. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN WARFARE.] - -When the men were sufficiently trained he advanced, but it was with the -utmost caution. He seldom proceeded farther than twelve miles in one -day; the march was always ended by noon, and the afternoon was regularly -employed in throwing up strong intrenchments round the camp, in order to -secure the army from any sudden attack; and the spot that had been thus -fortified on one day was never totally abandoned until a new encampment -had been made on the ensuing one. Moreover, strong posts were -established at the distance of forty miles, or thereabouts, from each -other, in which guards were left, in order to ensure a safe retreat to -the army in case it should not be successful. As he advanced, General -Wayne sent detachments of his army to destroy all the Indian villages -that were near him, and on these occasions the deepest stratagems were -made use of. In some instances his men threw off their clothes, and by -painting their bodies, disguised themselves so as to resemble Indians in -every respect, then approaching as friends, they committed dreadful -havoc. Skirmishes also frequently took place, on the march, with the -Indians who hovered round the army. These terminated with various -success, but mostly in favour of the Americans; as in their conduct, the -knowledge and discipline of regular troops were combined with all the -cunning and stratagem of their antagonists. - -All this time the Indians kept retreating, as they had done formerly -before St. Clair; and without being able to bring on a decisive -engagement, General Wayne proceeded even to the Miami of the Lakes, so -called in contra-distinction to another River Miami, which empties -itself into the Ohio. Here it was that that curious correspondence in -respect to Fort Miami took place, the substance of which was related in -most of the English and American prints, and by which General Wayne -exposed himself to the censure of many of his countrymen, and General, -then Colonel Campbell, who commanded in the fort, gained the public -thanks of the traders in London. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN WARFARE.] - -The Miami Fort, situated on the river of the same name, was built by the -English in the year 1793, at which time there was some reason to imagine -that the disputes existing between Great Britain and the United States -would not have been quite so amicably settled, perhaps, as they have -been; at least that doubtless must have been the opinion of government, -otherwise they would not have given orders for the construction of a -fort within the boundary line of the United States, a circumstance which -could not fail to excite the indignation of the people thereof. General -Wayne, it would appear, had received no positive orders from his -government to make himself master of it: could he have gained possession -of it, however, by a coup-de-main, without incurring any loss, he -thought that it could not but have been deemed an acceptable piece of -service by the public, from whom he should have received unbounded -applause. Vanity was his ruling passion, and actuated by it on this -occasion, he resolved to try what he could do to obtain possession of -the fort. Colonel Campbell, however, by his spirited and manly answer to -the summons that was sent him, to surrender the fort on account of its -being situated within the boundary line of the States, soon convinced -the American general that he was not to be shaken by his remonstrances -or intimidated by his menaces, and that his two hundred men, who -composed the garrison, had sufficient resolution to resist the attacks -of his army of three thousand, whenever he thought proper to march -against the fort. The main division of the American army, at this time, -lay at the distance of about four miles from the fort; a small -detachment from it, however, was concealed in the woods at a very little -distance from the fort, to be ready at the call of General Wayne, who, -strange to tell, when he found he was not likely to get possession of it -in consequence of the summons he sent, was so imprudent, and departed so -much from the dignity of the general and the character of the soldier, -as to ride up to the fort, and to use the most gross and illiberal -language to the British soldiers on duty in it. His object in doing so -was, I should suppose, to provoke the garrison to fire upon him, in -which case he would have had a pretext for storming the fort. - -Owing to the great prudence, however, of Colonel Campbell, who had -issued the strictest orders to his men and officers to remain silent, -notwithistanding any insults that were offered to them, and not to -attempt to fire, unless indeed an actual attack were made on the place, -Wayne’s plan was frustrated, much bloodshed certainly saved, and a -second war between Great Britain and America perhaps averted. - -General Wayne gained no great personal honour by his conduct on this -occasion; but the circumstance of his having appeared before the British -fort in the manner he did operated strongly in his favour in respect to -his proceedings against the Indians. These people had been taught to -believe by the young Canadians that were amongst them, that if any part -of the American army appeared before the fort, it would certainly be -fired upon; for they had no idea that the Americans would have come in -sight of it without taking offensive measures, in which case resistance -would certainly have been made. When, therefore, it was heard that -General Wayne had not been fired upon, the Indians complained grievously -of their having been deceived, and were greatly disheartened on finding -that they were to receive no assistance from the British. Their native -courage, however, did not altogether forsake them; they resolved -speedily to make a stand, and accordingly having chosen their ground, -awaited the arrival of General Wayne, who followed them closely. - -[Sidenote: PREPARATORY FAST.] - -Preparatory to the day on which they expected a general engagement, the -Indians, contrary to the usages of most nations, observe a strict fast; -nor does this abstinence from all sorts of food diminish their exertions -in the field, as from their early infancy they accustom themselves to -fasting for long periods together. The day before General Wayne was -expected, this ceremony was strictly attended to, and afterwards, having -placed themselves in ambush in the woods, they waited for his arrival. -He did not, however, come to the ground on the day that they had -imagined, from the reports given them by their scouts of his motions, he -would have done; but having reason to think he would come on the -subsequent day, they did not move from their ambush. The second day -passed over without his drawing nearer to them; but fully persuaded that -he would come up with them on the next, they still lay concealed in the -same place. The third day proved to be extremely rainy and tempestuous; -and the scouts having brought word, that from the movements General -Wayne had made there was no likelihood of his marching towards them that -day, the Indians, now hungry after having fasted for three entire days, -determined to rise from their ambush in order to take some refreshment. -They accordingly did so, and having no suspicion of an attack, began to -eat their food in security. - -Before they began to eat, the Indians had divided themselves, I must -observe, into three divisions, in order to march to another quarter, -where they hoped to surprise the army of the States. In this situation, -however, they were themselves surprised by General Wayne. He had -received intelligence from his scouts, now equally cunning with those of -the Indians, of their proceedings, and having made some motions as if he -intended to move to another part of the country, in order to put them -off their guard, he suddenly turned, and sent his light horse pouring -down on them when they least expected it. The Indians were thrown into -confusion, a circumstance which with them never fails to occasion a -defeat; they made but a faint resistance, and then fled with -precipitancy. - -[Sidenote: AMERICAN GENERAL.] - -On his arrival at Philadelphia, in the beginning of the year 1796, I was -introduced to General Wayne, and I had then an opportunity of seeing the -plan of all his Indian campaigns. A most pompous account was given of -this victory, and the plan of it excited, as indeed it well might, the -wonder and admiration of all the old officers who saw it. The Indians -were represented as drawn up in three lines, one behind the other, and -after receiving with firmness the charge of the American army, as -endeavouring with great skill and adroitness to turn its flanks, when, -by the hidden appearance of the Kentucky riflemen and the light cavalry, -they were put to flight. From the regularity with which the Indians -fought on this occasion, it was argued that they must doubtless have -been conducted by British officers of skill and experience. How absurd -this whole plan was, however, was plainly to be deduced from the -following circumstance, allowed both by the general and his aides de -camp, namely, that during the whole action the American army did not see -fifty Indians; and indeed every person who has read an account of the -Indians must know that they never come into the field in such regular -array, but always fight under covert, behind trees or bushes, in the -most irregular manner. Notwithstanding the great pains that were taken -formerly, both by the French and English, they never could be brought to -fight in any other manner. It was in this manner, and no other, as I -heard from several men who were in the action with them, that they -fought against General Wayne; each one, as soon as the American troops -were descried, instantly sheltered himself, and in retreating they still -kept under covert. It was by fighting them also in their own way, and by -sending parties of his light troops and cavalry to rout them from their -lurking places, that General Wayne defeated them; had he attempted to -have drawn up his army in the regular order described in the plan, he -could not but have met with the same fate as St. Clair, and general -Braddock did on a former occasion. - -Between thirty and forty Indians, who had been shot or bayoneted as they -attempted to run from one tree to another, were found dead on the field -by the American army. It is supposed that many more were killed, but the -fact of the matter could never be ascertained by them: a profound -silence was observed on the subject by the Indians, so that I never -could learn accurately how many of them had fallen; that however is an -immaterial circumstance; suffice it to say that the engagement soon -induced the Indians to sue for a peace. Commissioners were deputed by -the government of the United States to meet their chiefs; the -preliminaries were soon arranged, and a treaty was concluded, by which -the Indians relinquished a very considerable part of their territory, -bordering upon that of the United States. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN PEACE.] - -The last and principal ceremony observed by the Indians in concluding a -peace, is that of burying the hatchet. When this ceremony came to be -performed, one of the chiefs arose, and lamenting that the last peace -concluded between them and the people of the States had remained -unbroken for so short a time, and expressing his desire that this one -should be more lasting, he proposed the tearing up of a large oak that -grew before them, and the burying of the hatchet under it, where it -would for ever remain at rest. Another chief said, that trees were -liable to be levelled by the storms; that at any rate they would decay; -and that as they were desirous that a perpetual peace should be -established between them and their late enemies, he conceived it would -be better to bury the hatchet under the tall mountain which arose behind -the wood. A third chief in turn addressed the assembly: “As for me,” -said he, “I am but a man, and I have not the strength of the great -spirit to tear up the trees of the forest by the roots, or to remove -mountains, under which to bury the hatchet; but I propose that the -hatchet may be thrown into the deep lake, where no mortal can ever find -it, and where it will remain buried for ever.” This proposal was -joyfully accepted by the assembly, and the hatchet was in consequence -cast with great solemnity into the water. The Indians now tell you, in -their figurative language, that there must be peace for ever. “On former -times,” say they, “when the hatchet was buried, it was only slightly -covered with a little earth and a few leaves, and being always a very -troublesome restless creature, it soon contrived to find its way -aboveground, where it never failed to occasion great confusion between -us and our white brethren, and to knock a great many good people on the -head; but now that it has been thrown into the deep lake, it can never -do any more mischief amongst us; for it cannot rise of itself to the -surface of the lake, and no one can go to the bottom to look for it.” -And that there would be a permanent peace between them I have no doubt, -provided that the people of the States would observe the articles of the -treaty as punctually as the Indians; but it requires little sagacity to -predict that this will not be the case, and that ere long the hatchet -will be again resumed. Indeed, a little time before we reached Malden, -messengers from the southern Indians had arrived to sound the -disposition of those who lived near the lake, and try if they were ready -and willing to enter into a fresh war. Nor is this eagerness for war to -be wondered at, when from the report of the commissioners, who were sent -down by the federal government to the new state of Tenassee, in order to -put the treaty into effect, and to mark out the boundaries of that state -in particular, it appeared that upwards of five thousand people, -contrary to the stipulation of the treaty lately entered into with the -Indians, had encroached upon, and settled themselves down in Indian -territory, which people, the commissioners said, could not be persuaded -to return, and in their opinion could not be forced back again into the -States without very great difficulty[15]. - -Footnote 15: - - The substance of this report appeared in an extract of a letter from - Lexington, in Kentucky, which I myself saw, and which was published in - many of the newspapers in the United States. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -A large portion of the back settlers, living upon the Indian frontiers, -are, according to the best of my information, far greater savages than -the Indians themselves. It is nothing uncommon, I am told, to see hung -up in their chimney corners, or nailed against the door of their -habitations, similarly to the ears or brush of a fox, the scalps which -they have themselves torn from the heads of the Indians whom they have -shot; and in numberless publications in the United States I have read -accounts of their having flayed the Indians, and employed their skins as -they would have done those of a wild beast, for whatever purpose they -could be applied to. An Indian is considered by them as nothing better -than a destructive ravenous wild beast, without reason, without a soul, -that ought to be hunted down like a wolf wherever it makes its -appearance; and indeed, even amongst the bettermost sort of the -inhabitants of the western country, the most illiberal notions are -entertained respecting these unfortunate people, and arguments for their -banishment, or rather extirpation, are adopted, equally contrary to -justice and to humanity. “The Indian,” say they, “who has no idea, or at -least is unwilling to apply himself to agriculture, requires a thousand -acres of land for the support of his family; an hundred acres will be -enough for one of us and our children; why then should these heathens, -who have no notion of arts and manufactures, who never have made any -improvement in science, and have never been the inventors of any thing -new or useful to the human species, be suffered to encumber the soil?” -“The settlements making in the upper parts of Georgia, upon the fine -lands of the Oconec and Okemulgee rivers, will,” says Mr. Imlay, -speaking of the probable destination of the Indians of the south western -territory, “bid defiance to them in that quarter. The settlements of -French Broad, aided by Holston, have nothing to fear from them; and the -Cumberland is too puissant to apprehend any danger. The Spaniards are in -possession of the Floridas (how long they will remain so must depend -upon their moderation and good manners) and of the settlements at the -Natchez and above, which will soon extend to the southern boundaries of -Cumberland, so that they (the Indians) will be completely enveloped in a -few years. Our people (alluding to those of the United States) will -continue to _encroach_ upon them on three sides, and _compel_ them to -live more domestic lives, and assimilate them to our mode of living, or -cross to the western side of the Mississippi.” - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -O Americans! shall we praise your justice and your love of liberty, when -thus you talk of encroachments and compulsion? Shall we commend your -moderation, when we see ye eager to gain fresh possessions, whilst ye -have yet millions of acres within your own territories unoccupied? Shall -we reverence your regard for the rights of human nature, when we see ye -bent upon banishing the poor Indian from the land where rest the bones -of his ancestors, to him more precious than your cold hearts can -imagine, and when we see ye tyrannizing over the hapless African, -because nature has stamped upon him a complexion different from your -own? - -The conduct of the people of the States towards the Indians appears the -more unreasonable and the more iniquitous, when it is considered that -they are dwindling fast away of themselves; and that in the natural -order of things there will not probably be a single tribe of them found -in existence in the western territory by the time that the numbers of -the white inhabitants of the country become so numerous as to render -land one half as valuable there as it is at present within ten miles of -Philadelphia or New York. Even in Canada, where the Indians are treated -with so much kindness, they are disappearing faster, perhaps, than any -people were ever known to do before them, and are making room every year -for the whites; and it is by no means improbable, but that at the end of -fifty years there will not be a single Indian to be met with between -Quebec and Detroit, except the few perhaps that may be induced to lead -quiet domestic lives, as a small number now does in the village of -Lorette near Quebec, and at some other places in the lower province. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -It is well known, that before Europeans got any footing in North -America, the increase of population amongst the Indian nations was very -slow, as it is at this day amongst those who remain still unconnected -with the whites. Various reasons have been assigned for this. It has -been asserted, in the first place, that the Indian is of a much cooler -temperament than the white man, has less ardour in pursuit of the -female, and is furnished with less noble organs of generation. This -assertion is perhaps true in part: they are chaste to a proverb when -they come to Philadelphia, or any other of the large towns, though they -have a predilection in general for white women, and might there readily -indulge their inclination; and there has never been an instance that I -can recollect, of their offering violence to a female prisoner, though -oftentimes they have carried off from the settlements very beautiful -women; that, however, they should not have been gifted by the Creator -with ample powers to propagate their species would be contrary to every -thing we see either in the animal or the vegetable world; it seems to be -with more justice that their slow increase is ascribed to the conduct of -the women. The dreadful practice amongst them, of prostituting -themselves at a very early age, cannot fail, I should imagine, to -vitiate the humours, and must have a tendency to occasion sterility. -Added to this, they suckle the few children they have for several years, -during which time, at least amongst many of the tribes, they avoid all -connection with their husbands; moreover, finding great inconveniency -attendant upon a state of pregnancy, when they are following their -husbands, in the hunting season, from one camp to another, they have -been accused of making use of certain herbs, the specific virtues of -which they are well acquainted with, in order to procure abortion. - -If one or more of these causes operated against the rapid increase of -their numbers before the arrival of Europeans on the continent, the -subsequent introduction of spirituous liquors amongst them, of which -both men and women drink to the greatest excess whenever an opportunity -offers, was sufficient in itself not only to retard this slow increase, -but even to occasion a diminution of their numbers. Intermittent fevers -and various other disorders, whether arising from an alteration in the -climate, owing to the clearing of the woods, or from the use of the -poisonous beverages introduced amongst them by the whites, it is hard to -say, have likewise contributed much of late years to diminish their -numbers. The Shawnese, one of the most warlike tribes, has been lessened -nearly one half by sickness. Many other reasons could be adduced for -their decrease, but it is needless to enumerate them. That their numbers -have gradually lessened, as those of the whites have increased, for two -centuries past, is incontrovertible; and they are too much attached to -old habits to leave any room to imagine that they will vary their line -of conduct, in any material degree, during years to come, so that they -must of consequence still continue to decrease. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -In my next letter I intend to communicate to you a few observations that -I have made upon the character, manners, customs, and personal and -mental qualifications, &c. of the Indians. So much has already been -written on these subjects, that I fear I shall have little to offer to -your perusal but what you may have read before. I am induced to think, -however, that it will not be wholly unpleasing to you to hear the -observations of others confirmed by me, and if you should meet with any -thing new in what I have to say, it will have the charm of novelty at -least to recommend it to your notice. I am not going to give you a -regular detail of Indian manners, &c.; it would be absurd in me, who -have only been with them for a few weeks, to attempt to do so. If you -wish to have an account of Indian affairs at large, you must read Le P. -Charlevoix, Le P. Hennipin, Le Hontan, Carver, &c. &c. who have each -written volumes on the subject. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXV. - -_A brief Account of the Persons, Manners, Character, Qualifications, - mental and corporeal, of the Indians; interspersed with Anecdotes._ - - - Malden. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - - -WHAT I shall first take notice of in the persons of the Indians, is the -colour of their skins, which, in fact, constitutes the most striking -distinction between their persons and ours. In general their skin is of -a copper cast; but a most wonderful difference of colour is observable -amongst them; some, in whose veins there is no reason to think that any -other than Indian blood flows, not having darker complexions than -natives of the south of France or of Spain, whilst others, on the -contrary, are nearly as black as negroes. Many persons, and particularly -some of the most respectable of the French missionaries, whose long -residence amongst the Indians ought to have made them competent judges -of the matter, have been of opinion, that their natural colour does not -vary from ours; and that the darkness of their complexion arises wholly -from their anointing themselves so frequently with unctuous substances, -and from their exposing themselves so much to the smoke of wood fires, -and to the burning rays of the sun. But although it is certain that they -think a dark complexion very becoming; that they take great pains from -their earliest age to acquire such an one; and that many of them do, in -process of time, contrive to vary their original colour very -considerably; although it is certain likewise, that when first born -their colour differs but little from ours; yet it appears evident to me, -that the greater part of them are indebted for their different hues to -nature alone. I have been induced to form this opinion from the -following consideration, namely; that those children which are born of -parents of a dark colour are almost universally of the same dark cast as -those from whom they sprang. Nekig, that is, The Little Otter, an -Ottoway chief of great notoriety, whose village is on Detroit River, and -with whom we have become intimately acquainted, has a complexion that -differs but little from that of an African; and his little boys, who are -the very image of the father, are just as black as himself. With regard -to Indian children being white on their first coming into the world, it -ought by no means to be concluded from thence, that they would remain so -if their mothers did not bedaub them with grease, herbs, &c. as it is -well known that negro children are not perfectly black when born, nor -indeed for many months afterwards, but that they acquire their jetty hue -gradually, on being exposed to the air and sun, just as in the vegetable -world the tender blade, on first peeping above ground, turns from white -to a pale greenish colour, and afterwards to a deeper green. - -Though I remarked to you in a former letter, that the Mississaguis, who -live about Lake Ontario, were of a much darker cast than any other tribe -of Indians I met with, yet I do not think that the different shades of -complexion observable amongst the Indians are so much confined to -particular tribes as to particular families; for even amongst the -Mississaguis I saw several men that were comparatively of a very light -colour. Judging of the Creeks, Cherokees, and other southern Indians, -from what I have seen of them at Philadelphia, and at other towns in the -States, whither they often come in large parties, led either by business -or curiosity, it appears to me that their skin has a redder tinge, and -more warmth of colouring in it, if I may use the expression, than that -of the Indians in the neighbourhood of the lakes; it appears to me also, -that there is less difference of colour amongst them than amongst those -last mentioned. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - -Amongst the female Indians also, in general, there is a much greater -sameness of colour than amongst the men. I do not recollect to have seen -any of a deeper complexion than what might be termed a dirty copper -colour. - -The Indians universally have long, straight, black, coarse hair, and -black eyes, rather small than full sized; they have, in general, also, -high prominent cheek bones, and sharp small noses, rather inclining to -an aquiline shape; they have good teeth, and their breath, in general, -is as sweet as that of a human being can be. The men are for the most -part very well made; it is a most rare circumstance to meet with a -deformed person amongst them: they are remarkably straight; have full -open chests; their walk is firm and erect, and many amongst them have -really a dignified deportment. Very few of them are under the middle -stature, and none of them ever become very fat or corpulent. You may -occasionally see amongst them stout robust men, closely put together, -but in general they are but slightly made. Their legs, arms, and hands, -are for the most part extremely well shaped; and very many amongst them -would be deemed handsome men in any country in the world. - -The women, on the contrary, are mostly under the middle size; and have -higher cheek bones, and rounder faces than the men. They have very -ungraceful carriages; walk with their toes turned considerably inwards, -and with a shuffling gait; and as they advance in years they grow -remarkably fat and coarse. I never saw an Indian woman of the age of -thirty, but what her eyes were sunk, her forehead wrinkled, her skin -loose and shrivelled, and her whole person, in short, forbidding; yet, -when young, their faces and persons are really pleasing, not to say -sometimes very captivating. One could hardly imagine, without witnessing -it, that a few years could possibly make such an alteration as it does -in their persons This sudden change is chiefly owing to the drudgery -imposed on them by the men after a certain age; to their exposing -themselves so much to the burning rays of the sun; sitting so -continually in the smoke of wood fires; and, above all, to the general -custom of prostituting themselves at a very early age. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - -Though the Indians are profusely furnished with hair on their heads, yet -on none of the other parts of the body, usually covered with it amongst -us, is the smallest sign of hair visible, except, indeed, on the chins -of old men, where a few slender straggling hairs are sometimes seen, not -different from what may be occasionally seen on women of a certain age -in Europe. Many persons have supposed that the Indians have been created -without hair on those parts of the body where it appears wanting; -others, on the contrary, are of opinion, that nature has not been less -bountiful to them than to us; and that this apparent deficiency of hair -is wholly owing to their plucking it out themselves by the roots, as -soon as it appears above the skin. It is well known, indeed, that the -Indians have a great dislike to hair, and that such of the men as are -ambitious of appearing gayer than the rest, pluck it not only from their -eye-brows and eye-lashes, but also from every part of the head, except -one spot on the back part of the crown, where they leave a long lock. -For my own part, from every thing I have seen and heard, I am fully -persuaded, that if an Indian were to lay aside this custom of plucking -out the hair, he would not only have a beard, but likewise hair on the -same parts of the body as white people have; I think, however, at the -same time, that this hair would be much finer, and not grow as thickly -as upon our bodies, notwithstanding that the hair of their heads is so -much thicker than ours. The few hairs that are seen on the faces of old -men are to be attributed to the carelessness of old people about their -external appearance. - -To pluck out their hair, all such as have any connection with the -traders make use of a pliable worm, formed of flattened brass wire. This -instrument is closely applied, in its open state, to the surface of the -body where the hair grows; it is then compressed by the finger and -thumb; a great number of hairs are caught at once between the spiral -evolutions of the wire, and by a sudden twitch they are all drawn out by -the roots. An old squaw, with one of these instruments, would deprive -you of your beard in a very few minutes, and a slight application of the -worm two or three times in the year would be sufficient to keep your -chin smooth ever afterwards. A very great number of the white people, in -the neighbourhood of Malden and Detroit, from having submitted to this -operation, appear at first sight as little indebted to nature for beards -as the Indians. The operation is very painful, but it is soon over, and -when one considers how much time and trouble is saved and ease gained by -it in the end, it is only surprising that more people do not summon up -resolution, and patiently submit to it. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - -The long lock of hair on the top of the head, with the skin on which it -grows, constitutes the true scalp; and in scalping a person that has a -full head of hair, an experienced warrior never thinks of taking off -more of the skin than a bit of about the size of a crown piece, from the -part of the head where this lock is usually left. They ornament this -solitary lock of hair with beads, silver trinkets, &c. and on grand -occasions with feathers. The women do not pluck any of the hair from off -their heads, and pride themselves upon having it as long as possible. -They commonly wear it neatly platted up behind, and divided in front on -the middle of the forehead. When they wish to appear finer than usual, -they paint the small part of the skin, which appears on the separation -of the hair, with a streak of vermilion; when neatly done, it looks -extremely well, and forms a pleasing contrast to the jetty black of -their hair. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - -The Indians, who have any dealings with the English or American traders, -and all of them have that live in the neighbourhood, and to the east of -the Mississippi, and in the neighbourhood of the great lakes to the -north-west, have now totally laid aside the use of furs and skins in -their dress, except for their shoes or moccasins, and sometimes for -their leggings, as they find they can exchange them to advantage for -blankets and woollen cloths, &c. which they consider likewise as much -more agreeable and commodious materials for wearing apparel. The -moccasin is made of the skin of the deer, elk, or buffalo, which is -commonly dressed without the hair, and rendered of a deep brown colour -by being exposed to the smoke of a wood fire. It is formed of a single -piece of leather, with a seam from the toe to the instep, and another -behind, similar to that in a common shoe; by means of a thong, it is -fastened round the instep, just under the ankle-bone, and is thus made -to fit very close to the foot. Round that part where the foot is put in, -a flap of the depth of an inch or two is left, which hangs loosely down -over the string by which the moccasin is fastened; and this flap, as -also the seam, are tastefully ornamented with porcupine quills and -beads: the flap is edged with tin or copper tags filled with scarlet -hair, if the moccasin be intended for a man, and with ribands if for a -woman. An ornamented moccasin of this sort is only worn in dress, as the -ornaments are expensive, and the leather soon wears out; one of plain -leather answers for ordinary use. Many of the white people on the Indian -frontiers wear this kind of shoe; but a person not accustomed to walk in -it, or to walk barefoot, cannot wear it abroad, on a rough road, without -great inconvenience, as every unevenness of surface is felt through the -leather, which is soft and pliable: in a house it is the most agreeable -sort of shoe that can be imagined: the Indians wear it universally. -Above the moccasin all the Indians wear what are called leggings, which -reach from the instep to the middle of the thigh. They are commonly made -of blue or scarlet cloth, and are formed so as to fit close to the -limbs, like the modern pantaloons; but the edges of the cloth annexed to -the seam, instead of being turned in, are left on the outside, and are -ornamented with beads, ribands, &c. when the leggings are intended for -dress. Many of the young warriors are so desirous that their leggings -should fit them neatly, that they make the squaws, who are the tailors, -and really very good ones, sow them tight on their limbs, so that they -cannot be taken off, and they continue to wear them constantly till they -are reduced to rags. The leggings are kept up by means of two strings, -one on the outside of each thigh, which are fastened to a third, that is -tied round the waist. - -They also wear round the waist another string, from which are suspended -two little aprons, somewhat more than a foot square, one hanging down -before and the other behind, and under these a piece of cloth, drawn -close up to the body between the legs, forming a sort of truss. The -aprons and this piece of cloth, which are all fastened together, are -called the breech cloth. The utmost ingenuity of the squaws is exerted -in adorning the little aprons with beads, ribands, &c. - -The moccasins, leggings, and breech cloth constitute the whole of the -dress which they wear when they enter upon a campaign, except indeed it -be a girdle, from which hangs their tobacco pouch and scalping knife, -&c.; nor do they wear any thing more when the weather is very warm; but -when it is cool, or when they dress themselves to visit their friends, -they put on a short shirt, loose at the neck and wrists, generally made -of coarse figured cotton or callico of some gaudy pattern, not unlike -what would be used for window or bed curtains at a common inn in -England. Over the shirt they wear either a blanket, large piece of broad -cloth, or else a loose coat made somewhat similarly to a common riding -frock; a blanket is more commonly worn than any thing else. They tie one -end of it round their waist with a girdle, and then drawing it over -their shoulders, either fasten it across their breasts with a skewer, or -hold the corners of it together in the left hand. One would imagine that -this last mode of wearing it could not but be highly inconvenient to -them, as it must deprive them in a great measure of the use of one hand; -yet it is the mode in which it is commonly worn, even when they are -shooting in the woods; they generally, however, keep the right arm -disengaged when they carry a gun, and draw the blanket over the left -shoulder. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - -The dress of the women differs but very little from that of the men. -They wear moccasins, leggings, and loose short shirts, and like them -they throw over their shoulders, occasionally, a blanket or piece of -broad cloth, but most generally the latter; they do not tie it round -their waist, however, but suffer it to hang down so as to hide their -legs; instead also of the breech cloth, they wear a piece of cloth -folded closely round their middle, which reaches from the waist to the -knees. Dark blue or green cloths in general are preferred to those of -any other colour; a few of the men are fond of wearing scarlet. - -The women in warm weather appear in the villages without any other -covering above their waists than these shirts, or shifts if you please -so to call them, though they differ in no respect from the shirts of the -men; they usually, however, fasten them with a broach round the neck. In -full dress they also appear in these shirts, but then they are covered -entirely over with silver broaches, about the size of a sixpenny piece. -In full dress they likewise fasten pieces of ribands of various colours -to their hair behind, which are suffered to hang down to their very -heels. I have seen a young squaw, that has been a favourite with the -men, come forth at a dance with upwards of five guineas worth of ribands -streaming from her hair. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - -On their wrists the women wear silver bracelets when they can procure -them; they also wear silver ear-rings; the latter are in general of a -very small size; but it is not merely one pair which they wear, but -several. To admit them, they bore a number of holes in their ears, -sometimes entirely round the edges. The men wear ear-rings likewise, but -of a sort totally different from those worn by the women; they mostly -consist of round flat thin pieces of silver, about the size of a dollar, -perforated with holes in different patterns; others, however, equally -large, are made in a triangular form. Some of the tribes are very select -in the choice of the pattern, and will not wear any but the one sort of -pendants. Instead of boring their ears, the men slit them along the -outward edge from top to bottom, and as soon as the gash is healed hang -heavy weights to them in order to stretch the rim thus separated as low -down as possible; Some of them are so successful in this operation, that -they contrive to draw the rims of the ear in form of a bow, down to -their very shoulders, and their large ear-rings hang dangling on their -breasts. To prevent the rim thus extended from breaking, they bind it -with brass wire; however, I observed that there was not one in six that -had his ears perfect; the least touch, indeed, is sufficient to break -the skin, and it would be most wonderful if they were able to preserve -it entire, engaged so often as they are in drunken quarrels, and so -often liable to be entangled in thickets whilst pursuing their game. - -Some of the men wear pendants in their noses, but these are not so -common as ear-rings. The chiefs and principal warriors wear breast -plates, consisting of large pieces of silver, sea shells, or the like. -Silver gorgets, such as are usually worn by officers, please them -extremely, and to favourite chiefs they are given out, amongst other -presents, on the part of government. Another sort of ornament is -likewise worn by the men, consisting of a large silver clasp or -bracelet, to which is attached a bunch of hair dyed of a scarlet colour, -usually taken from the knee of the buffalo. This is worn on the narrow -part of the arm above the elbow, and it is deemed very ornamental, and -also a badge of honour, for no person wears it that has not -distinguished himself in the field. Silver ornaments are universally -preferred to those of any other metal. - -The Indians not only paint themselves when they go to war, but likewise -when they wish to appear full dressed. Red and black are their favourite -colours, and they daub themselves in the most fantastic manner. I have -seen some with their faces entirely covered with black, except a round -spot in the center, which included the upper lip and end of the nose, -which was painted red; others again I have seen with their heads -entirely black, except a large red round spot on each ear; others with -one eye black and the other red, &c.; but the most common style of -painting I observed, was to black their faces entirely over with -charcoal, and then wetting their nails, to draw parallel undulating -lines on their cheeks. They generally carry a little looking glass about -them to enable them to dispose of their colours judiciously. When they -go to war they rub in the paint with grease, and are much more -particular about their appearance, which they study to render as -horrible as possible; they then cover their whole body with red, white, -and black paint, and seem more like devils than human beings. Different -tribes have different methods of painting themselves. - -[Sidenote: OF THE INDIANS.] - -Though the Indians spend so much of their time in adorning their -persons, yet they take no pains to ornament their habitations, which for -the most part are wretched indeed. Some of them are formed of logs, in a -style somewhat similar to the common houses in the United States; but -the greater part of them are of a moveable nature, and formed of bark. -The bark of the birch tree is deemed preferable to every other sort, and -where it is to be had is always made use of; but in this part of the -country not being often met with, the bark of the elm tree is used in -its stead. The Indians are very expert in stripping it from a tree; and -frequently take the entire bark from off the trunk in one piece. The -skeletons of their huts consist of slender poles, and on them the bark -is fastened with strips of the tough rind of some young tree: this, if -sound, proves a very effectual defence against the weather. The huts are -built in various forms: some of them have walls on every side, doors, -and also a chimney in the middle of the roof; others are open on one -side, and are nothing better than sheds. When built in this last style, -four of them are commonly placed together, so as to form a quadrangle, -with the open parts towards the inside, and a fire common to them all is -kindled in the middle. In fine weather these huts are agreeable -dwellings; but in the depth of winter they must be dreadfully -uncomfortable. Others of their huts are built in a conical shape. The -Nandowessies, Mr. Carver tells us, live entirely in tents formed of -skins. A great many of the families that were encamped on the island of -Bois Blanc, I observed, lived in the canvas tents which they had taken -from St. Clair’s army. Many of the Indian nations have no permanent -place of residence, but move about from one spot to another, and in the -hunting season they all have moveable encampments, which last are in -general very rude, and insufficient to give them even tolerable shelter -from a fall of rain or snow. The hunting season commences on the fall of -the leaf, and continues till the snow dissolves. - -[Sidenote: SOAP STONE.] - -In the depth of winter, when the snow is frozen on the ground, they form -their hunting sheds of the snow itself; a few twigs platted together -being simply placed overhead to prevent the snow which forms the roof -from falling down. These snowy habitations are much more comfortable, -and warmer in winter time than any others that can be erected, as they -effectually screen you from the keen piercing blasts of the wind, and a -bed of snow is far from being uncomfortable. To accustom the troops to -encamp in this style, in case of a winter campaign, a party of them, -headed by some of the young officers, used regularly to be sent from -Quebec by the late governor, into the woods, there to shift for -themselves during the month of February. Care was always taken, however, -to send with them two or three experienced persons, to shew them how to -build the huts, otherwise death might have been the consequence to many. -In these encampments they always sleep with their feet to the fire; and -indeed in the Indian encampments in general, during cold weather, they -sleep on the ground with their feet to the fire; during mild weather, -many of them sleep on benches of bark in their huts, which are raised -from two to four feet from the ground. - -The utensils in an Indian hut are very few; one or two brass or iron -kettles procured from the traders, or, if they live removed from them, -pots formed of stone, together with a few wooden spoons and dishes made -by themselves constitute in general the whole of them. A stone of a very -soft texture, called the _soap stone_, is very commonly found in the -back parts of North America, particularly suited for Indian workmanship. -It receives its name from appearing to the touch as soft and smooth as a -bit of soap; and indeed it may be cut with a knife almost equally -easily. In Virginia they use it powdered for the boxes of their wheels -instead of grease. Soft, however, as is this stone, it will resist fire -equally with iron. The soap stone is of a dove colour; others nearly of -the same quality, are found in the country, of a black and red colour, -which are still commonly used by the Indians for the bowls of their -pipes. - -The bark canoes, which the Indians use in this part of the country, are -by no means so neatly formed as those made in the country upon, and to -the north of, the River St. Lawrence: they are commonly formed of one -entire piece of elm bark, taken from the trunk of the tree, which is -bound on ribs formed of slender rods of tough wood. There are no ribs, -however, at the ends of these canoes, but merely at the middle part, -where alone it is that passengers ever sit. It is only the center, -indeed, which rests upon the water; the ends are generally raised some -feet above the surface, the canoes being of a curved form. They bring -them into this shape by cutting, nearly midway between the stem and -stern, two deep slits, one on each side, in the back, and by lapping the -disjointed edges one over the other. No pains are taken to make the ends -of the canoes water tight, since they never touch the water. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN DEXTERITY.] - -On first inspection you would imagine, from its miserable appearance, -that an elm bark canoe, thus constructed, were not calculated to carry -even a single person safely across a smooth piece of water; it is -nevertheless a remarkably safe sort of boat, and the Indians will -resolutely embark in one of them during very rough weather. They are so -light that they ride securely over every wave, and the only precaution -necessary in navigating them is to sit steady. I have seen a dozen -people go securely in one, which might be easily carried by a single -able-bodied man. When an Indian takes his family to any distance in a -canoe, the women, the girls, and boys, are furnished each with a paddle, -and are kept busily at work; the father of the family gives himself no -trouble but in steering the vessel. - -The Indians that are connected with the traders have now, very -generally, laid aside bows and arrows, and seldom take them into their -hands, except it be to amuse themselves for a few hours, when they have -expended their powder and shot: their boys, however, still use them -universally, and some of them shoot with wonderful dexterity. I saw a -young Shawnese chief, apparently not more than ten years old, fix three -arrows running in the body of a small black squirrel, on the top of a -very tall tree, and during an hour or two that I followed him through -the woods, he scarcely missed his mark half a dozen times. It is -astonishing to see with what accuracy, and at the same time with what -readiness, they mark the spot where their arrows fall. They will shoot -away a dozen arrows or more, seemingly quite careless about what becomes -of them, and as inattentive to the spot where they fall as if they never -expected to find them again, yet afterwards they will run and pick them -every one up without hesitation. The southern Indians are much more -expert at the use of the bow than those near the lakes, as they make -much greater use of it. - -With the gun, it seems to be generally allowed, that the Indians are by -no means so good marksmen as the white people. I have often taken them -out shooting with me, and I always found them very slow in taking aim; -and though they generally hit an object that was still, yet they -scarcely ever touched a bird on the wing, or a squirrel that was leaping -about from tree to tree. - -The expertness of the Indians in throwing the tomahawk is well known. At -the distance of ten yards they will fix the sharp edge of it in an -object nearly to a certainty. I have been told, however, that they are -not fond of letting it out of their hands in action, and that they never -attempt to throw it but when they are on the point of overtaking a -flying foe, or are certain of recovering it. Some of them will fasten a -string of the length of a few feet to the handle of the tomahawk, and -will launch it forth, and draw it back again into their hand with great -dexterity; they will also parry the thrust or cuts of a sword with the -tomahawk very dexterously. - -[Sidenote: TOMAHAWKS.] - -The common tomahawk is nothing more than a light hatchet, but the most -approved sort has on the back part of the hatchet, and connected with it -in one piece, the bowl of a pipe, so that when the handle is perforated, -the tomahawk answers every purpose of a pipe: the Indians, indeed, are -fonder of smoking out of a tomahawk than out of any other sort of pipe. -That formerly given to the Indians by the French traders, instead of a -pipe, had a large spike on the back part of the hatchet; very few of -these instruments are now to be found amongst them; I never saw but one. -The tomahawk is commonly worn by the left side, stuck in a belt. - -For the favourite chiefs, very elegant pipe-tomahawks, inlaid with -silver, are manufactured by the armourers in the Indian department. -Captain E—— has given me one of this kind, which he had made for -himself; it is so much admired by the Indians, that when they have seen -it with me, they have frequently asked me to lend it to them for an hour -or so to smoke out of, just as children would ask for a pretty -plaything; they have never failed to return it very punctually. - -The armourers here alluded to are persons kept at the expence of -government to repair the arms of the Indians when they happen to break, -which is very commonly the case. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -An Indian child, soon after it is born, is swathed with cloths or skins, -and being then laid on its back, is bound down on a piece of thick -board, spread over with soft moss. The board is left somewhat longer and -broader than the child, and bent pieces of wood, like pieces of hoops, -are placed over its face to protect it, so that if the machine were -suffered to fall the child would not probably be injured. The women, -when they go abroad, carry their children thus tied down on their backs, -the board being suspended by a broad band, which they wear round their -foreheads. When they have any business to transact at home, they hang -the board on a tree, if there be one at hand, and set them a swinging -from side to side, like a pendulum, in order to exercise the children; -sometimes also, I observed, they unloosened the children from the -boards, and putting them each into a sort of little hammock, fastened -them between two trees, and there suffered them to swing about. As soon -as they are strong enough to crawl about on their hands and feet they -are liberated from all confinement, and suffered, like young puppies, to -run about, stark naked, into water, into mud, into snow, and, in short, -to go wheresoever their choice leads them; hence they derive that vigour -of constitution which enables them to support the greatest fatigue, and -that indifference to the changes of the weather which they possess in -common with the brute creation. The girls are covered with a loose -garment as soon as they have attained four or five years of age, but the -boys go naked till they are considerably older. - -The Indians, as I have already remarked, are for the most part very -slightly made, and from a survey of their persons one would imagine that -they were much better qualified for any pursuits that required great -agility than great bodily strength. This has been the general opinion of -most of those who have written on this subject. I am induced, however, -from what I have myself been witness to, and from what I have collected -from others, to think that the Indians are much more remarkable for -their muscular strength than for their agility. At different military -posts on the frontiers, where this subject has been agitated, races, for -the sake of experiment, have frequently been made between soldiers and -Indians, and provided the distance was not great, the Indians have -almost always been beaten; but in a long race, where strength of muscle -was required, they have without exception been victorious; in leaping -also the Indians have been infallibly beaten by such of the soldiers as -possessed common activity: but the strength of the Indians is most -conspicuous in the carrying of burthens on their backs; they esteem it -nothing to walk thirty miles a day for several days together under a -load of eight stone, and they will walk an entire day under a load -without taking any refreshment. In carrying burdens they make use of a -sort of frame, somewhat similar to what is commonly used by a glazier to -carry glass; this is fastened by cords, or strips of tough bark or -leather, round their shoulders, and when the load is fixed upon the -broad ledge at the bottom of the frame, two bands are thrown round the -whole, one of which is brought across the forehead, and the other across -the breast, and thus the load is supported. The length of way an Indian -will travel in the course of the day, when unencumbered with a load, is -astonishing. A young Wyandot, who, when peace was about to be made -between the Indians and General Wayne, was employed to carry a message -from his nation to the American officer, travelled but little short of -eighty miles on foot in one day; and I was informed by one of the -general’s aids-de-camp, who saw him when he arrived at the camp, that he -did not appear in the least degree fatigued. - -[Sidenote: MEMORY OF THE INDIANS.] - -Le P. Charlevoix observes, that the Indians seem to him to possess many -personal advantages over us; their senses, in particular, he thinks much -finer than ours; their sight is, indeed, quick and penetrating, and it -does not fail them till they are far advanced in years, notwithstanding -that their eyes are exposed so many months each winter to the dazzling -whiteness of the snow, and to the sharp irritating smoke of wood fires. -Disorders in the eyes are almost wholly unknown to them; nor is the -slightest blemish ever seen in their eyes, excepting it be a result from -some accident. Their hearing is very acute, and their sense of smelling -so nice, that they can tell when they are approaching a fire long before -it is in sight. - -The Indians have most retentive memories; they will preserve to their -deaths a recollection of any place they have once passed through; they -never forget a face that they have attentively observed but for a few -seconds; at the end of many years they will repeat every sentence of the -speeches that have been delivered by different individuals in a public -assembly; and has any speech been made in the council house of the -nation, particularly deserving of remembrance, it will be handed down -with the utmost accuracy from one generation to another, though -perfectly ignorant of the use of hieroglyphicks and letters; the only -memorials of which they avail themselves are small pieces of wood, such -as I told you were brought by them to Captain E——, preparatory to the -delivery of the presents, and belts of wampum; the former are only used -on trifling occasions, the latter never but on very grand and solemn -ones. Whenever a conference, or a talk as they term it, is about to be -held with any neighbouring tribe, or whenever any treaty or national -compact is about to be made, one of these belts, differing in some -respect from every other that has been made before, is immediately -constructed; each person in the assembly holds this belt in his band -whilst he delivers his speech, and when he has ended, he presents it to -the next person that rises, by which ceremony each individual is -reminded, that it behoves him to be cautious in his discourse, as all he -says will be faithfully recorded by the belt. The talk being over, the -belt is deposited in the hands of the principal chief. - -On the ratification of a treaty, very broad splendid belts are -reciprocally given by the contracting parties, which are deposited -amongst the other belts belonging to the nation. At stated intervals -they are all produced to the nation, and the occasions upon which they -were made are mentioned; if they relate to a talk, one of the chiefs -repeats the substance of what was said over them; if to a treaty, the -terms of it are recapitulated. Certain of the squaws, also, are -entrusted with the belts, whose business it is to relate the history of -each one of them to the younger branches of the tribe; this they do with -great accuracy, and thus it is that the remembrance of every important -transaction is kept up. - -[Sidenote: WAMPUM.] - -The wampum is formed of the inside of the clam shell, a large sea shell -bearing some similitude to that of a scallop, which is found on the -coasts of New England and Virginia. The shell is sent in its original -rough state to England, and there cut into small pieces, exactly similar -in shape and size to the modern glass bugles worn by ladies, which -little bits of shell constitute wampum. There are two sorts of wampum, -the white and the purple; the latter is most esteemed by the Indians, -who think a pound weight of it equally valuable with a pound of silver. -The wampum is strung upon bits of leather, and the belt is composed of -ten, twelve, or more strings, according to the importance of the -occasion on which it is made; sometimes also the wampum is sowed in -different patterns on broad belts of leather. - -The use of wampum appears to be very general amongst the Indian nations, -but how it became so, is a question that would require discussion, for -it is well known that they are a people obstinately attached to old -customs, and that would not therefore be apt to adopt, on the most grand -and solemn occasion, the use of an article that they had never seen -until brought to them by strangers; at the same time it seems wholly -impossible that they should ever have been able to have made wampum from -the clam shell for themselves; they fashion the bowls of tobacco pipes, -indeed, from stone, in a very curious manner, and with astonishing -accuracy, considering that they use no other instrument than a common -knife, but then the stone which they commonly carve thus is of a very -soft kind; the clam shell, however, is exceedingly hard, and to bore and -cut it into such small pieces as are necessary to form wampum, very fine -tools would be wanting. Probably they made some use of the clam shell, -and endeavoured to reduce it to as small bits as they could with their -rude instruments before we came amongst them, but on finding that we -could cut it so much more neatly than they could, laid aside the wampum -before in use for that of our manufacture. Mr. Carver tells us, that he -found sea shells very generally worn by the Indians who resided in the -most interior parts of the continent, who never could have visited a sea -shore themselves, and could only have procured them at the expence of -much trouble from other nations. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -The Indians are exceedingly sagacious and observant, and by dint of -minute attention, acquire many qualifications to which we are wholly -strangers. They will traverse a trackless forest, hundreds of miles in -extent, without deviating from the straight course, and will reach to a -certainty the spot whither they intended to go on setting out: with -equal skill they will cross one of the large lakes, and though out of -sight of the shores for days, will to a certainty make the land at once, -at the very place they desired. Some of the French missionaries have -supposed that the Indians are guided by instinct, and have pretended -that Indian children can find their way through a forest as easily as a -person of maturer years; but this is a most absurd notion. It is -unquestionably by a close attention to the growth of the trees, and -position of the sun, that they find their way. On the northern side of a -tree, there is generally the most moss, and the bark on that side in -general differs from that on the opposite one. The branches towards the -south are for the most part more luxuriant than those on the other sides -of trees, and several other distinctions also subsist between the -northern and southern sides, conspicuous to Indians, who are taught from -their infancy to attend to them, which a common observer would perhaps -never notice. Being accustomed from their childhood, likewise, to pay -great attention to the position of the sun, they learn to make the most -accurate allowance for its apparent motion from one part of the heavens -to another, and in any part of the day they will point to the part of -the heavens where it is, although the sky be obscured by clouds or -mists. - -[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] - -An instance of their dexterity in finding their way through an unknown -country came under my observation when I was at Staunton, situated -behind the Blue Mountains, Virginia. A number of the Creek nation had -arrived at that town in their way to Philadelphia, whither they were -going upon some affairs of importance, and had stopped there for the -night. In the morning some circumstance or another, what could not be -learned, induced one half of the Indians to set off without their -companions, who did not follow until some hours afterwards. When these -last were ready to pursue their journey, several of the towns-people -mounted their horses to escort them part of the way. They proceeded -along the high road for some miles, but all at once, hastily turning -aside into the woods, though there was no path, the Indians advanced -confidently forward; the people who accompanied them, surprised at this -movement, informed them that they were quitting the road to -Philadelphia, and expressed their fears lest they should miss their -companions, who had gone on before. They answered, that they knew -better; that the way through the woods was the shortest to Philadelphia; -and that they knew very well that their companions had entered the woods -at the very place they did. Curiosity led some of the horsemen to go on, -and to their astonishment, for there was apparently no track, they -overtook the other Indians in the thickest part of the wood; but what -appeared most singular was, that the route which they took was found, on -examining a map, to be as direct for Philadelphia as if they had taken -the bearings by a mariner’s compass. From others of their nation, who -had been at Philadelphia at a former period, they had probably learned -the exact direction of that city from their village, and had never lost -sight of it, although they had already travelled three hundred miles -through woods, and had upwards of four hundred miles more to go before -they could reach the place of their destination. - -Of the exactness with which they can find out a strange place that they -have been once directed to by their own people, a striking example is -furnished us, I think, by Mr. Jefferson, in his account of the Indian -graves in Virginia. These graves are nothing more than large mounds of -earth in the woods, which, on being opened, are found to contain -skeletons in an erect posture: the Indian mode of sepulture has been too -often described to remain unknown to you. But to come to my story. A -party of Indians that were passing on to some of the sea-ports on the -Atlantic, just as the Creeks above mentioned were going to Philadelphia, -were observed, all on a sudden, to quit the straight road by which they -were proceeding, and without asking any questions, to strike through the -woods in a direct line to one of these graves, which lay at the distance -of some miles from the road. Now very near a century must have passed -over since the part of Virginia, in which this grave was situated, had -been inhabited by Indians; and these Indian travellers, who went to -visit it by themselves, had, unquestionably, never been in that part of -the country before; they must have found their way to it simply from the -description of its situation that had been handed down to them by -tradition. - -[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] - -The Indians, for the most part, are admirably well acquainted with the -geography of their own country. Ask them any questions relative to the -situation of a particular place in it, and if there be a convenient spot -at hand, they will, with the utmost facility, trace upon the ground with -a stick a map, by no means inaccurate, of the place in question, and the -surrounding country; they will point out the course of the rivers, and -by directing your attention to the sun, make you acquainted with the -different bearings. I happened once to be sitting in a house at the -western extremity of Lake Erie, whilst we were detained there by -contrary winds, and was employed in looking over a pocket map of the -state of New York, when a young Seneka warrior entered. His attention -was attracted by the sight of the map, and he seemed at once to -comprehend the meaning of it; but never having before seen a general map -of the state of New York, and being wholly ignorant of the use of -letters, he could not discover to what part of the country it had a -reference; simply, however, by laying my finger upon the spot where we -then were, and by shewing to him the line that denoted Buffalo Creek, on -which his village was situated, I gave him the clue to the whole, and -having done so, he quickly ran over the map, and with the utmost -accuracy pointed out by name, every lake and river for upwards of two -hundred miles distant from his village. All the lakes and rivers in this -part of the country still retain the Indian names, so that had he named -them wrong, I could have at once detected him. His pleasure was so great -on beholding such a perfect map of the country, that he could not -refrain from calling some of his companions, who were loitering at the -door, to come and look at it. They made signs to me to lend it to them; -I did so, and having laid it on a table, they sat over it for more than -half an hour, during which time I observed they frequently testified -their pleasure to one another on finding particular places accurately -laid down, which they had been acquainted with. The older men also -seemed to have many stories to tell the others, probably respecting the -adventures they had met with at distant parts of the country, and which -they were now glad of having an opportunity of elucidating by the map -before them. - -Whenever a track of ground is about to be purchased by government from -the Indians, for no private individuals can purchase lands from them by -the laws of the province, a map of the country is drawn, and the part -about to be contracted for, is particularly marked out. If there be any -mistakes in these maps, the Indians will at once point them out; and -after the bargain is made, they will, from the maps, mark out the -boundaries of the lands they have ceded with the greatest accuracy, -notching the trees, if there be any, along the boundary line, and if -not, placing stakes or stones in the ground to denote where it runs. On -these occasions regular deeds of sale are drawn, with accurate maps of -the lands which have been purchased attached to them, and these deeds -are signed in form by the contracting parties. I saw several of them in -possession of our friend Captain E——, which were extremely curious on -account of the Indian signatures. The Indians, for the most part, take -upon them the name of some animal, as, The Blue Snake; The Little -Turkey; The Big Bear; The Mad Dog, &c. and their signatures consist of -the outline, drawn with a pen, of the different animals whose names they -bear. Some of the signatures at the bottom of these deeds were really -well executed, and were lively representations of the animals they were -intended for. - -[Sidenote: INGENUITY OF THE INDIANS.] - -The Indians in general possess no small share of ingenuity. Their -domestic wooden utensils, bows and arrows, and other weapons, &c. are -made with the utmost neatness; and indeed the workmanship of them is -frequently such as to excite astonishment, when it is considered that a -knife and a hatchet are the only instruments they make use of. On the -handles of their tomahawks, on their powder horns, on the bowls of their -pipes, &c. you oftentimes meet with figures extremely well designed, and -with specimens of carving far from contemptible. The embroidery upon -their moccasins and other garments shews that the females are not less -ingenious in their way than the men. Their porcupine quill work would -command admiration in any country in Europe. The soft young quills of -the porcupine are those which they use, and they dye them of the most -beautiful and brilliant colours imaginable. Some of their dyes have been -discovered, but many of them yet remain unknown, as do also many of the -medicines with which they perform sometimes most miraculous cures. Their -dyes and medicines are all procured from the vegetable world. - -But though the Indians prove by their performances, that they have some -relish for the works of art, yet they are by no means ready to bestow -commendations on every thing curious for its workmanship that is shewn -to them. Trinkets or ornaments for dress, though ever so gaudy, or ever -so neatly manufactured, they despise, unless somewhat similar in their -kind to what they themselves are accustomed to wear, and fashioned -exactly to their own taste, which has remained nearly the same since -Europeans first came amongst them; nor will they praise any curious or -wonderful piece of mechanism, unless they can see that it is intended to -answer some useful purpose. Nothing that I could shew them attracted -their attention, I observed, so much as a light double-barrelled gun, -which I commonly carried in my hand when walking about their -encampments. This was something in their own way; they at once perceived -the benefit that must accrue to the sportsman from having two barrels on -the one stock, and the contrivance pleased them; well acquainted also -with the qualities of good locks, and the advantages attending them, -they expressed great satisfaction at finding those upon my piece so -superior to what they perhaps had before seen. - -It is not every new scene either, which to them, one would imagine, -could not fail to appear wonderful, that will excite their admiration. - -[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] - -A French writer, I forget who, tells us of some Iroquois Indians that -walked through several of the finest streets of Paris, but without -expressing the least pleasure at any thing they saw, until they at last -came to a cook’s shop; this called forth their warmest praise; a shop -where a man was always sure of getting something to satisfy his hunger, -without the trouble and fatigue of hunting and fishing, was in their -opinion one of the most admirable institutions possible: had they been -told, however, that they must have paid for what they eat, they would -have expressed equal indignation perhaps at what they saw. In their own -villages they have no idea of refusing food to any person that enters -their habitation in quality of a friend. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -The Indians, whom curiosity or business leads to Philadelphia, or to any -other of the large towns in the States, find, in general, as little -deserving of notice in the streets and houses there as these Iroquois at -Paris; and there is not one of them but what would prefer his own wigwam -to the most splendid habitations they see in any of these places. The -shipping, however, at Philadelphia and the other sea-ports, seldom fails -to excite their admiration, because they at once see the utility and -advantage of large vessels over canoes, which are the only vessels they -have. The young Wyandot, whom I before mentioned, as having made such a -wonderful day’s journey on foot, happened to be at Philadelphia when I -was there, and he appeared highly delighted with the river, and the -great number of ships of all sizes upon it; but the tide attracted his -attention more than any thing else whatsoever. On coming to the river -the first day, he looked up at the sun, and made certain observations -upon the course of the stream, and general situation of the place, as -the Indians never fail to do on coming to any new or remarkable spot. -The second time, however, he went down to the water, he found to his -surprise that the river was running with equal rapidity in a contrary -direction to what he had seen it run the day before. For a moment he -imagined that by some mistake he must have got to the opposite side of -it; but soon recollecting himself, and being persuaded that he stood on -the very same spot from whence he had viewed it the day before, his -astonishment became great indeed. To obtain information upon such an -interesting point, he immediately sought out an aid-de-camp of General -Wayne, who had brought him to town. This gentleman, however, only -rendered the appearance still more mysterious to him, by telling him, -that the great spirit, for the convenience of the white men, who were -his particular favourites, had made the rivers in their country to run -two ways; but the poor Wyandot was satisfied with the answer, and -replied, “Ah, my friend, if the great spirit would make the Ohio to run -two ways for us, we should very often pay you a visit at -Pittsburgh[16].” During his stay at Philadelphia he never failed to -visit the river every day. - -Footnote 16: - - A town situated at the very head of the Ohio. - -Amongst the public exhibitions at Philadelphia, the performances of the -horse riders and tumblers at the amphitheatre appear to afford them the -greatest pleasure; they entertain the highest opinion of these people -who are so distinguished for their feats of activity, and rank them -amongst the ablest men in the nation. Nothing, indeed, gives more -delight to the Indians than to see a man that excels in any bodily -exercise; and tell them even of a person that is distinguished for his -great strength, for his swiftness in running, for his dexterous -management of the bow or the gun, for his cunning in hunting, for his -intrepid and firm conduct in war, or the like, they will listen to you -with the greatest pleasure, and readily join in praises of the hero. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -The Indians appear, on the first view, to be of a very cold and -phlegmatic disposition, and you must know them for some time before you -can be persuaded to the contrary. If you shew them any artificial -production which pleases them, they simply tell you, with seeming -indifference, “that it is pretty;” “that they like to look at it;” “that -it is a clever invention:” nor do they testify their satisfaction and -pleasure by emotions seemingly much warmer in their nature, on beholding -any new or surprising spectacle, or on hearing any happy piece of -intelligence. The performances at the amphitheatre at Philadelphia, -though unquestionably highly interesting to them, never drew forth from -them, I observed, more than a smile or a gentle laugh, followed by a -remark in a low voice to their friend sitting next to them. With equal -indifference do they behold any thing terrible, or listen to the -accounts of any dreadful catastrophe that has befallen their families or -their nation. This apathy, however, is only assumed, and certainly does -not proceed from a real want of feeling: no people on earth are more -alive to the calls of friendship; no people have a greater affection for -their offspring in their tender years; no people are more sensible of an -injury: a word in the slighted degree insulting will kindle a flame in -their breasts, that can only be extinguished by the blood of the -offending party; and they will traverse forests for hundreds of miles, -exposed to the inclemency of the severest weather, and to the pangs of -hunger, to gratify their revenge; they will not cease for years daily to -visit, and silently to mourn over the grave of a departed child; and -they will risk their lives, and sacrifice every thing they possess, to -assist a friend in distress; but at the same time, in their opinion, no -man can be esteemed a good warrior or a dignified character that openly -betrays any extravagant emotions of surprise, of joy, of sorrow, or of -fear, on any occasion whatsoever. The excellence of appearing thus -indifferent to what would excite the strongest emotions in the minds of -any other people, is forcibly inculcated on them from their earliest -youth; and such an astonishing command do they acquire over themselves, -that even at the stake, when suffering the severest tortures that can be -inflicted on the human body by the flames and the knife, they appear -unmoved, and laugh, as it is well known, at their tormentors. - -This affected apathy on the part of the Indians makes them appear -uncommonly grave and reserved in the presence of strangers; in their own -private circles, however, they frequently keep up gay and sprightly -conversations; and they are possessed, it is said, of a lively and ready -turn of wit. When at such a place as Philadelphia, notwithstanding their -appearing so indifferent to every thing before them whilst strangers are -present, yet, after having retired by themselves to an apartment for the -night, they will frequently lit up for hours together, laughing and -talking of what they have seen in the course of the day. I have been -told by persons acquainted with their language, that have overheard -their discourse on such occasions, that their remarks are most -pertinent, and that they sometimes turn what has passed before them into -such ludicrous points of view, that it is scarcely possible to refrain -from laughter. - -But though the Indians, in general, appear so reserved in the presence -of strangers, yet the firmness of their dispositions forbids them from -ever appearing embarrassed, and they would sit down to table in a -palace, before the first crowned head on the face of the earth, with as -much unconcern as they would sit down to a frugal meal in one of their -own cabins. They deem it highly becoming in a warrior, to accommodate -his manners to those of the people with whom he may happen to be, and as -they are wonderfully observant, you will seldom perceive any thing of -awkwardness or vulgarity in their behaviour in the company of strangers. -I have seen an Indian, that had lived in the woods from his infancy, -enter a drawing room in Philadelphia, full of ladies, with as much ease -and as much gentility as if he had always lived in the city, and merely -from having been told, preparatory to his entering, the form usually -observed on such occasions. But the following anecdote will put this -matter in a stronger point of view. - -[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] - -Our friend Nekig, the Little Otter, had been invited to dine with us at -the house of a gentleman at Detroit, and he came accordingly, -accompanied by his son, a little boy of about nine or ten years of age. -After dinner a variety of fruits were served up, and amongst the rest -some peaches, a dish of which was handed to the young Indian. He helped -himself to one with becoming propriety; but immediately afterwards he -put the fruit to his mouth, and bit a piece out of it. The father eyed -him with indignation, and spoke some words to him in a low voice, which -I could not understand, but which, on being interpreted by one of the -company, proved to be a warm reprimand for his having been so deficient -in observation as not to peel his peach, as he saw the gentleman -opposite to him had done. The little fellow was extremely ashamed of -himself; but he quickly retrieved his error, by drawing a plate towards -him, and pealing the fruit with the greatest neatness. - -Some port wine, which he was afterwards helped to, not being by any -means agreeable to his palate, the little fellow made a wry face, as a -child might naturally do, after drinking it. This called forth another -reprimand from the father, who told him, that he despaired of ever -seeing him a great man or a good warrior if he appeared then to dislike -what his host had kindly helped him to. The boy drank the rest of his -wine with seeming pleasure. - -The Indians scarcely ever lift their hands against their children; but -if they are unmindful of what is said to them, they sometimes throw a -little water in their faces, a species of reprimand of which the -children have the greatest dread, and which produces an instantaneous -good effect. One of the French missionaries tells us of his having seen -a girl of an advanced age so vexed at having some water thrown in her -face by her mother, as if she was still a child, that she instantly -retired, and put an end to her existence. As long as they remain -children, the young Indians are attentive in the extreme to the advice -of their parents; but arrived at the age of puberty, and able to provide -for themselves, they no longer have any respect for them, and they will -follow their own will and pleasure in spite of all their remonstrances, -unless, indeed, their parents be of an advanced age. Old age never fails -to command their most profound veneration. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -No people are possessed of a greater share of natural politeness than -the Indians: they will never interrupt you whilst you are speaking; nor, -if you have told them any thing which they think to be false, will they -bluntly contradict you; “We dare say brother,” they will answer, “that -you yourself believe what you tell us to be true; but it appears to us -so improbable that we cannot give our assent to it.” - -In their conduct towards one another nought but gentleness and harmony -is observable. You are never witness, amongst them, to such noisy broils -and clamorous contentions as are common amongst the lower classes of -people in Europe; nor do you perceive amongst them any traces of the -coarse vulgar manners of these latter people; they behave on all -occasions like gentlemen, and could not so many glaring proofs be -adduced to the contrary, you never could imagine that they were that -ferocious savage people in war which they are said to be. It must be -understood, however, that I only speak now of the Indians in their sober -state; when intoxicated with spirits, which is but too often the case, a -very different picture is presented to our view, and they appear more -like devils incarnate than human beings; they roar, they fight, they cut -each other, and commit every sort of outrage; indeed so sensible are -they of their own infirmities in this state, that when a number of them -are about to get drunk, they give up their knives and tomahawks, &c. to -one of the party, who is on honour to remain sober, and to prevent -mischief, and who generally does behave according to this promise. If -they happen to get drunk without having taken this precaution, their -squaws take the earliest opportunity to deprive them of their weapons. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -The Indians prefer whiskey and rum to all other spirituous liquors; but -they do not seem eager to obtain these liquors so much for the pleasure -of gratifying their palates as for the sake of intoxication. There is -not one in a hundred that can refrain from drinking to excess if he have -it in his power; and the generality of them having once got a taste of -any intoxicating liquor, will use every means to gain more; and to do so -they at once become mean, servile, deceitful, and depraved, in every -sense of the word. Nothing can make amends to these unfortunate people -for the introduction of spirituous liquors amongst them. Before their -acquaintance with them, they were distinguished beyond all other nations -for their temperance in eating and drinking; for their temperance in -eating, indeed, they are still remarkable; they esteem it indecorous in -the highest degree even to appear hungry; and on arriving at their -villages, after having fasted, perhaps, for several days preceding, they -will sit down quietly, and not ask for any food for a considerable time; -and having got wherewith to satisfy their appetite, they will eat with -moderation, as though the calls of hunger were not more pressing than if -they had feasted the hour before. They never eat on any occasion in a -hurry. - -The Indians are by nature of a very hospitable generous disposition, -where no particular circumstances operate to the contrary; and, indeed, -even when revenge would fain persuade them to behave differently, yet -having once professed a friendship for a stranger, and pledged -themselves for his safety, nothing can induce them to deviate from their -word. Of their generosity I had numberless proofs in the presents which -they gave me; and though it must be allowed, that when they make -presents they generally expect others in return, yet I am convinced, -from the manner in which they presented different trifles to me, that it -was not with an expectation of gaining more valuable presents in return -that they gave them to me, but merely through friendship. It is -notorious, that towards one another they are liberal in the extreme, and -for ever ready to supply the deficiencies of their neighbours with any -superfluities of their own. They have no idea of amassing wealth for -themselves individually; and they wonder that persons can be found in -any society, so destitute of every generous sentiment, as to enrich -themselves at the expence of others, and to live in ease and affluence, -regardless of the misery and wretchedness of members of the same -community to which they themselves belong. Their dresses, domestic -utensils, and weapons, are the only articles of property to which they -lay an exclusive claim; everything else is the common property of the -tribe, in promoting the general welfare in which every individual feels -himself deeply interested. The chiefs are actuated by the same laudable -spirit, and instead of being the richest, are, in many instances, the -poorest persons in the community; for whilst others have leisure to -hunt, &c. it frequently happens that the whole of their time is occupied -in settling the public affairs of the nation. - -[Sidenote: REMARKS.] - -The generality of the Indian nations appear to have two sorts of chiefs; -council chiefs, and war chiefs. The former are hereditary, and are -employed principally in the management of their civil affairs; but they -may be war chiefs at the same time: the latter are chosen from amongst -those who have distinguished themselves the most in battle, and are -solely employed in leading the warriors in the field. The chiefs have no -power of enforcing obedience to their commands, nor do they ever attempt -to give their orders in an imperious manner; they simply advise. Each -private individual conceives that he is born in a state of perfect -liberty, and he disdains all controul, but that which his own reason -subjects him to. As they all have one interest, however, at heart, which -is the general welfare of the nation, and as it is well known that the -chiefs are actuated by no other motives, whatever measures they -recommend are generally attended to, and at once adopted. Savages as -they are, yet in no civilized community, I fear, on earth, shall we find -the same public spirit, the same disinterestedness, and the same regard -to order, where order is not enforced by the severity of laws, as -amongst the Indians. - -The Indians have the most sovereign contempt for any set of people that -have tamely relinquished their liberty; and they consider such as have -lost it, even after a hard struggle, as unworthy any rank in society -above that of old women: to this cause, and not to the difference that -subsists between their persons, is to be attributed, I conceive, the -rooted aversion which the Indians universally have for negroes. You -could not possibly affront an Indian more readily, than by telling him -that you think he bears some resemblance to a negro; or that he has -negro blood in his veins: they look upon them as animals inferior to the -human species, and will kill them with as much unconcern as a dog or a -cat. - -[Sidenote: ANECDOTES.] - -An American officer, who, during the war with Great Britain, had been -sent to one of the Indian nations resident on the western frontier of -the States, to persuade them to remain neuter in the contest, informed -me, that whilst he remained amongst them some agents arrived in their -village to negociate, if possible, for the release of some negro slaves -whom they had carried off from the American settlements. One of these -negroes, a remarkably tall handsome fellow, had been given to an Indian -woman of some consequence in the nation, in the manner in which -prisoners are usually disposed of amongst them. Application was made to -her for his ransom. She listened quietly to what was said; resolved at -the same time, however, that the fellow should not have his liberty, she -stepped aside into her cabin, and having brought out a large knife, -walked up to her slave, and without more ado plunged it into his bowels: -“Now,” says she, addressing herself coolly to the agents; “now I give -you leave to take away your negro.” The poor creature that had been -stabbed fell to the ground, and lay writhing about in the greatest -agonies, until one of the warriors took compassion on him, and put an -end to his misery by a blow of a tomahawk. - -At Detroit, Niagara, and some other places in Upper Canada, a few -negroes are still held in bondage. Two of these hapless people -contrived, while we remained at Malden, to make their escape from -Detroit, by stealing a boat, and proceeding in the night down the river. -As the wind would not permit them to cross the lake, it was conjectured -that they would be induced to coast along the shore until they reached a -place of safety; in hopes, therefore, of being able to recover them, the -proprietor came down to Malden, and there procured two trusty Indians to -go in quest of them. The Indians, having received a description of their -persons, set out; but had scarcely proceeded an hundred yards, when one -of them, who could speak a few words of English, returned, to ask the -proprietor if he would give him permission to scalp the negroes if they -were at all refractory, or refused coming. His request was peremptorily -refused, for it was well known that, had it been granted, he would have -at once killed them to avoid the trouble of bringing them back. “Well,” -says he, “if you will not let me scalp both, you won’t be angry with me, -I hope, if I scalp one.” He was told in answer, that he must bring them -both back alive. This circumstance appeared to mortify him extremely, -and he was beginning to hesitate about going, when, sorry am I to say, -the proprietor, fearful lest the fellows should escape from him, gave -his assent to the Indian’s request, but at the same time he begged that -he would not destroy them if he could possibly avoid it. What the result -was I never learned; but from the apparent satisfaction with which the -Indian set out after he had obtained his dreadful permission, there was -every reason to imagine that one of the negroes at least would be -sacrificed. - -[Sidenote: JOSEPH BRANDT.] - -This indifference in the mind of the Indians about taking away the life -of a fellow creature, makes them appear, it must be confessed, in a very -unamiable point of view. I fear also, that in the opinion of many -people, all the good qualities which they possess, would but ill atone -for their revengeful disposition, and for the cruelties which, it is -well known, they sometimes inflict upon the prisoners who have fallen -into their power in battle. Great pains have been taken, both by the -French and English missionaries, to represent to them the infamy of -torturing their prisoners; nor have these pains been bestowed in vain; -for though in some recent instances it has appeared that they still -retain a fondness for this horrid practice, yet I will venture, from -what I have heard, to assert, that of late years not one prisoner has -been put to the torture, where twenty would have been a hundred years -ago. Of the prisoners that fell into their hands on St. Clair’s defeat, -I could not learn, although I made strict enquiries on the subject, that -a single man had been fastened to the stake. As soon as the defeat was -known, rewards were held out by the British officers, and others that -had influence over them, to bring in their prisoners alive, and the -greater part of them were delivered up unhurt; but to irradicate wholly -from their breasts the spirit of revenge has been found impossible. You -will be enabled to form a tolerable idea of the little good effect which -education has over their minds in this respect, from the following -anecdotes of Captain Joseph Brandt, a war chief of the Mohawk nation. - -This Brandt, at a very early age, was sent to a college in New England, -where, being possessed of a good capacity, he soon made very -considerable progress in the Greek and Latin languages. Uncommon pains -were taken to instil into his mind the truths of the gospel. He -professed himself to be a warm admirer of the principles of -christianity, and in hopes of being able to convert his nation on -returning to them, he absolutely translated the gospel of St. Matthew -into the Mohawk language; he also translated the established form of -prayer of the church of England. Before Brandt, however, had finished -his course of studies, the American war broke out, and fired with that -spirit of glory which seems to have been implanted by nature in the -breast of the Indian, he immediately quitted the college, repaired to -his native village, and shortly afterwards, with a considerable body of -his nation, joined some British troops under the command of Sir John -Johnston. Here he distinguished himself by his valour in many different -engagements, and was soon raised, not only to the rank of a war chief, -but also to that of a captain in his Majesty’s service. - -[Sidenote: BRANDT.] - -It was not long, however, before Brandt sullied his reputation in the -British army. A skirmish took place with a body of American troops; the -action was warm, and Brandt was shot by a musquet-ball in the heel; but -the Americans in the end were defeated, and an officer with about sixty -men taken prisoners. The officer, after having delivered up his sword, -had entered into conversation with Colonel Johnston, who commanded the -British troops, and they were talking together in the most friendly -manner, when Brandt, having stolen slily behind them, laid the American -officer lifeless on the ground with a blow of his tomahawk. The -indignation of Sir John Johnston, as may readily be supposed, was roused -by such an act of treachery, and he resented it in the warmest language. -Brandt listened to him unconcernedly, and when he had finished, told -him, that he was sorry what he had done had caused his displeasure, but -that indeed his heel was extremely painful at the moment, and he could -not help revenging himself on the only chief of the party that he saw -taken. Since he had killed the officer, his heel, he added, was much -less painful to him than it had been before. - -When the war broke out, the Mohawks resided on the Mohawk River, in the -state of New York, but on peace being made, they emigrated into Upper -Canada, and their principal village is now situated on the Grand River, -which falls into Lake Erie on the north side, about sixty miles from the -town of Newark or Niagara; there Brandt at present resides. He has built -a comfortable habitation for himself, and any stranger that visits him -may rest assured of being well received, and of finding a plentiful -table well served every day. He has no less than thirty or forty -negroes, who attend to his horses, cultivate his grounds, &c. These poor -creatures are kept in the greatest subjection, and they dare not attempt -to make their escape, for he has assured them, that if they did so he -would follow them himself, though it were to the confines of Georgia, -and would tomahawk them wherever he met them. They know his disposition -too well not to think that he would adhere strictly to his word. - -[Sidenote: BRANDT.] - -Brandt receives from government half pay as a captain, besides annual -presents, &c. which in all amount, it is said, to £.500 per annum. We -had no small curiosity, as you may well imagine, to see this Brandt, and -we procured letters of introduction to him from the governor’s -secretary, and from different officers and gentlemen of his -acquaintance, with an intention of proceeding from Newark to his -village. Most unluckily, however, on the day before that of our reaching -the town of Newark or Niagara, he had embarked on board a vessel for -Kingston, at the opposite end of the lake. You may judge of Brandt’s -consequence, when I tell you, that a lawyer of Niagara, who crossed Lake -Ontario in the same vessel with us, from Kingston, where he had been -detained for some time by contrary winds, informed us, the day after our -arrival at Niagara, that by his not having reached that place in time to -transact some law business for Brandt, and which had consequently been -given to another person, he should be a loser of one hundred pounds at -least. - -Brandt’s sagacity led him, early in life, to discover that the Indians -had been made the dupe of every foreign power that had got footing in -America; and, indeed, could he have had any doubts on the subject, they -would have been removed when he saw the British, after having demanded -and received the assistance of the Indians in the American war, so -ungenerously and unjustly yield up the whole of the Indian territories, -east of the Mississippi and south of the lakes, to the people of the -United States; to the very enemies, in short, they had made to -themselves at the request of the British. He perceived with regret that -the Indians, by espousing the quarrels of the whites, and by espousing -different interests, were weakening themselves; whereas, if they -remained aloof, and were guided by the one policy, they would soon -become formidable, and be treated with more respect; he formed the bold -scheme, therefore, of uniting the Indians together in one grand -confederacy, and for this purpose sent messengers to different chiefs, -proposing that a general meeting should be held of the heads of every -tribe, to take the subject into consideration; but certain of the -tribes, suspicious of Brandt’s designs, and fearful that he was bent -upon acquiring power for himself by this measure, opposed it with all -their might. Brandt has in consequence become extremely obnoxious to -many of the most warlike, and with such a jealous eye do they now regard -him, that it would not be perfectly safe for him to venture to the upper -country. - -He has managed the affairs of his own people with great ability, and -leased out their superfluous lands for them, for long terms of years, by -which measure a certain annual revenue is ensured to the nation, -probably as long as it will remain a nation. He wisely judged, that it -was much better to do so than to suffer the Mohawks, as many other -tribes had done, to sell their possessions by piecemeal, the sums of -money they received for which, however great, would soon be dissipated -if paid to them at once. - -[Sidenote: BRANDT.] - -Whenever the affairs of his nation shall permit him to do so, Brandt -declares it to be his intention to sit down to the further study of the -Greek language, of which he professes himself to be a great admirer, and -to translate from the original, into the Mohawk language, more of the -New Testament; yet this same man, shortly before we arrived at Niagara, -killed his only son with his own hand. The son, it seems, was a drunken -good for nothing fellow, who had often avowed his intention of -destroying his father. One evening he absolutely entered the apartment -of his father, and had begun to grapple with him, perhaps with a view to -put his unnatural threats into execution, when Brandt drew a short -sword, and felled him to the ground. Brandt speaks of this affair with -regret, but at the same time without any of that emotion which another -person than an Indian might be supposed to feel. He consoles himself for -the act, by thinking that he has benefitted the nation, by ridding them -of a rascal. - -Brandt wears his hair in the Indian style, and also the Indian dress; -instead of the wrapper, or blanket, he wears a short coat, such as I -have described, similar to a hunting frock. - -Though infinite pains have been taken by the French Roman Catholics, and -other missionaries, to propagate the gospel amongst the Indians, and -though many different tribes have been induced thereby to submit to -baptism, yet it does not appear, except in very few instances, that any -material advantages have resulted from the introduction of the Christian -religion amongst them. They have learned to repeat certain forms of -prayer; they have learned to attend to certain outward ceremonies; but -they still continue to be swayed by the same violent passions as before, -and have imbibed nothing of the genuine spirit of christianity. - -[Sidenote: MISSIONARIES.] - -The Moravian missionaries have wrought a greater change in the minds of -the Indians than any others, and have succeeded so far as to induce some -of them to abandon their savage mode of life, to renounce war, and to -cultivate the earth. It is with the Munsies, a small tribe resident on -the east side of Lake St. Clair, that they have had the most success; -but the number that have been so converted is small indeed. The Roman -Catholics have the most adherents, as the outward forms and parade of -their religion are particularly calculated to strike the attention of -the Indians, and as but little restraint is laid on them by the -missionaries of that persuasion, in consequence of their profession of -the new faith. The Quakers, of all people, have had the least success -amongst them; the doctrine of non-resistance, which they set out with -preaching, but ill accords with the opinion of the Indian; and amongst -some tribes, where they have attempted to inculcate it, particularly -amongst the Shawnese, one of the most warlike tribes to the north of the -Ohio, they have been exposed to very imminent danger[17]. - -Footnote 17: - - The great difficulty of converting the Indians to christianity does - not arise from their attachment to their own religion, where they have - any, so much as from certain habits which they seem to have imbibed - with the very milk of their mothers. - - A French missionary relates, that he was once endeavouring to convert - an Indian, by describing to him the rewards that would attend the - good, and the dreadful punishment which must inevitably await the - wicked, in a future world, when the Indian, who had some time before - lost his dearest friend, suddenly interrupted him, by asking him, - whether he thought his departed friend was gone to heaven or to hell. - I sincerely trust, answered the missionary, that he is in heaven. Then - I will do as you bid me, added the Indian, and lead a sober life, for - I should like to go to the place where my friend is. Had he, on the - contrary, been told that his friend was in hell, all that the reverend - father could have said to him of fire and brimstone would have been of - little avail in persuading him to have led any other than the most - dissolute life, in hopes of meeting with his friend to sympathise with - him under his sufferings. - -The Indians, who yet remain ignorant of divine revelation, seem almost -universally to believe in the exigence of one supreme, beneficent, all -wise, and all powerful spirit, and likewise in the existence of -subordinate spirits, both good and bad. The former, having the good of -mankind at heart, they think it needless to pay homage to them, and it -is only to the evil ones, of whom they have an innate dread, that they -pay their devotions, in order to avert their ill intentions. Some -distant tribes, it is said, have priests amongst them, but it does not -appear that they have any regular forms of worship. Each individual -repeats a prayer, or makes an offering to the evil spirit, when his fear -and apprehensions suggest the necessity of his so doing. - -The belief of a future state, in which they are to enjoy the same -pleasures as they do in this world, but to be exempted from pain, and -from the trouble of procuring food, seems to be very general amongst -them. Some of the tribes have much less devotion than others; the -Shawnese, a warlike daring nation, have but very little fear of evil -spirits, and consequently have scarcely any religion amongst them. None -of this nation, that I could learn, have ever been converted to -Christianity. - -[Sidenote: LANGUAGE.] - -It is a very singular and remarkable circumstance, that notwithstanding -the striking similarity which we find in the persons, manners, customs, -dispositions, and religion of the different tribes of Indians from one -end of the continent of North America to the other, a similarity so -great as hardly to leave a doubt on the mind but that they must all have -had the same origin, the languages of the different tribes should yet be -so materially different. No two tribes speak exactly the same language; -and the languages of many of those, who live at no great distance -asunder, vary so much, that they cannot make themselves at all -understood to each other. I was informed that the Chippeway language was -by far the most general, and that a person intimately acquainted with it -would soon be able to acquire a tolerable knowledge of any other -language spoken between the Ohio and Lake Superior. Some persons, who -have made the Indian languages their study, assert, that all the -different languages spoken by those tribes, with which we have any -connection, are but dialects of three primitive tongues, viz. the Huron, -the Algonquin, and the Sioux; the two former of which, being well -understood, will enable a person to converse, at least slightly, with -the Indians of any tribe in Canada or the United States. All the nations -that speak a language derived from the Sioux, have, it is said, a -hissing pronunciation; those who speak one derived from the Huron, have -a guttural pronunciation; and such as speak any one derived from the -Algonquin, pronounce their words with greater softness and ease than any -of the others. Whether this be a just distinction or not I cannot -pretend to determine; I shall only observe, that all the Indian men I -ever met with, as well those whose language is said to be derived from -the Huron, as those whose language is derived from the Algonquin, appear -to me to have very few labial sounds in their language, and to pronounce -the words from the throat, but not so much from the upper as the lower -part of the throat towards the breast. A slight degree of hesitation is -observable in their speech, and they articulate seemingly with -difficulty, and in a manner somewhat similar to what a person, I should -suppose, would be apt to do if he had a great weight laid on his chest, -or had received a blow on his breast or back so violent as to affect his -breath. The women, on the contrary, speak with the utmost ease, and the -language, as pronounced by them, appears as soft as the Italian. They -have, without exception, the most delicate harmonious voices I ever -heard, and the most pleasing gentle laugh that it is possible to -conceive. I have oftentimes sat amongst a group of them for an hour or -two together, merely for the pleasure of listening to their -conversation, on account of its wonderful softness and delicacy. - -The Indians, both men and women, speak with great deliberation, and -never appear to be at a loss for words to express their sentiments. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN MUSIC.] - -The native music of the Indians is very rude and indifferent, and -equally devoid of melody and variety. Their famous war song is nothing -better than an insipid recitative. Singing and dancing with them go hand -in hand; and when a large number of them, collected together, join in -the one song, the few wild notes of which it consists, mingled with the -sound of their pipes and drums, sometimes produce, when heard at a -distance, a pleasing effect on the ear; but it is then and then only -that their music is tolerable. - -The first night of our arrival at Malden, just as we were retiring to -rest, near midnight, we were most agreeably entertained in this manner -with the sound of their music on the island of Bois Blanc. Eager to hear -more of it, and to be witness to their dancing, we procured a boat, and -immediately crossed the river to the spot where they were assembled. -Three elderly men, seated under a tree, were the principal musicians. -One of these beat a small drum, formed of a piece of a hollow tree -covered with a skin, and the two others marked time equally with the -drum, with rattles formed of dried squashes or gourds filled with pease. -At the same time these men sung, indeed they were the leaders of the -song, which the dancers joined in. The dancers consisted solely of a -party of squaws, to the number of twenty or thereabouts, who, standing -in a circle, with their faces inwards and their hands folded round each -other’s necks, moved, thus linked together, sideways, with close short -steps, round a small fire. The men and women never dance together, -unless indeed a pretty squaw be introduced by some young fellow into one -of the men’s dances, which is considered as a very great mark of favour. -This is of a piece with the general conduct of the Indians, who look -upon the women in a totally different light from what we do in Europe, -and condemn them as slaves to do all the drudgery. I have seen a young -chief with no less than three women attendant on him to run after his -arrows, when he was amusing himself with shooting squirrels; I have also -seen Indians, when moving for a few miles from one place to another, -mount their horses and canter away at their ease, whilst their women -were left not only to walk, but to carry very heavy loads on their backs -after them. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN DANCES.] - -After the women had danced for a time, a larger fire was kindled, and -the men assembled from different parts of the island, to the number of -fifty or sixty, to amuse themselves in their turn. There was little more -variety in their dancing than in that of the women. They first walked -round the fire in a large circle, closely, one after another, marking -time with short steps to the music; the best dancer was put at their -head, and gave the step; he was also the principal singer in the circle. -After having made one round, the step was altered to a wider one, and -they began to stamp with great vehemence upon the ground; and every -third or fourth round, making little leaps off the ground with both -feet, they turned their faces to the fire and bowed their heads, at the -same time going on sideways. At last, having made a dozen or two rounds, -towards the end of which each one of them had begun to stamp on the -ground with inconceivable fury, but more particularly the principal -dancer, they all gave a loud shout at once, and the dance ended. - -In two or three minutes another dance was begun, which ended as soon, -and nearly in the same way as the other. There was but little difference -in the figures of any of them, and the only material difference in the -songs was, that in some of them the dancers, instead of singing the -whole of the air, came in simply with responses to the airs sung by the -old men. They beckoned to us to join them in their dance, which we -immediately did, as it was likely to please them, and we remained on the -island with them till two or three o’clock in the morning. There is -something inconceivably terrible in the sight of a number of Indians -dancing thus round a fire in the depths of thick woods, and the loud -shrieks at the end of every dance adds greatly to the horror which their -first appearance inspires. - -Scarcely a night passed over but what there were dances, similar to -those I have described, on the island. They never think of dancing till -the night is considerably advanced, and they keep it up till day-break. -In the day time they lie sleeping in the sun, or sit smoking tobacco, -that is, when they have nothing particular to engage them. Though the -most diligent persevering people in the world when roused into action, -yet when at peace with their neighbours, and having got wherewith to -satisfy the calls of hunger, they are the most slothful and indolent -possible. - -The dances mentioned are such as the Indians amuse themselves with in -common. On grand occasions they have a variety of others much more -interesting to a spectator. The dances which you see in common amongst -the Shawnese, and certain other tribes, are also, it is said, much more -entertaining than those I have described. There were several families of -the Shawnese encamped on the island of Bois Blanc when we were there; -but as there was not a sufficient number to form a dance by themselves, -we were never gratified with a sight of their performances. - -[Sidenote: WAR DANCE.] - -Of their grand dances the war dance must undoubtedly, from every account -I have received of it, for I never had any opportunity of seeing it -myself, be the one most worthy the attention of a stranger. It is -performed both on setting out and returning from their war parties, and -likewise at other times, but never except on some very particular and -solemn occasion. The chiefs and warriors who are about to join in this -dance dress and paint themselves as if actually out on a warlike -expedition, and they carry in their hands their warlike weapons. Being -assembled, they seat themselves down on their hams, in a circle, round a -great fire, near to which is placed a large post; after remaining a -short time in this position, one of the principal chiefs rises, and -placing himself in the center, begins to rehearse, in a sort of -recitative, all the gallant actions which he has ever performed; he -dwells particularly on the number of enemies he has killed, and -describes the manner in which he scalped them, making gestures all the -time, and brandishing his weapons, as if actually engaged in performing -the horrid operation. At the end of every remarkable story he strikes -his war club on the post with great fury. Every chief and warrior tells -of his deeds in turn. The song of one warrior often occupies several -hours, and the dance itself sometimes lasts for three or four entire -days and nights. During this period no one is allowed to sleep, a person -who stands at the outside of the circle being appointed (whose business -it is) to rouse any warrior that appears in the least drowsy. A deer, a -bear, or some other large animal is put to roast at the fire as soon as -the dance begins, and while it lasts each warrior rises at will to help -himself to a piece of it. After each person in the circle has in turn -told of his exploits, they all rise, and join in a dance truly -terrifying; they throw themselves into a variety of postures, and -leaping about in the most frantic manner, brandish their knives and -other weapons; at the same time they set up the war hoop, and utter the -most dreadful yells imaginable. In this manner the dance terminates. - -[Sidenote: INDIAN FLUTE.] - -The Indian flute or pipe is formed of a thick cane, similar to what is -found on the banks of the Mississippi, and in the southern parts of the -United States. It is about two feet or more in length, and has eight or -nine holes in it, in one row. It is held in the same manner as the oboe -or clarinet, and the sound is produced by means of a mouth piece not -unlike that of a common whistle. The tones of the instrument are by no -means unharmonious, and they would admit of a pleasing modulation, but I -never met with an Indian that was able to play a regular air upon it, -not even any one of the airs which they commonly sing, although I saw -several that were extremely fond of amusing themselves with the -instrument, and that would sit for hours together over the embers of -their cabin fires, playing over a few wild melancholy notes. Every -Indian that can bring a sound out of the instrument, and stop the holes, -which any one may do, thinks himself master of it; and the notes which -they commonly produce are as unconnected and unmeaning as those which a -child would bring forth from a halfpenny whistle. - -In addition to what I have said on the subject of the Indians, I shall -only observe, that notwithstanding they are such a very friendly -hospitable people, yet few persons, who had ever tasted of the pleasures -and comforts of civilized life, would feel any inclination to reside -amongst them, on becoming acquainted with their manner of living. The -filthiness and wretchedness of their smoky habitations, the nauseousness -of their common food to a person not even of a delicate palate, and -their general uncleanliness, would be sufficient, I think, to deter any -one from going to live amongst them from choice, supposing even that no -other reasons operated against his doing so. For my own part, I had -fully determined in my own mind, when I first came to America, not to -leave the continent without spending a considerable time amongst them, -in the interior parts of the country, in order to have an opportunity of -observing their native manners and customs in their utmost purity; but -the samples I have seen of them during my stay in this part of the -country, although it has given me a most favourable opinion of the -Indians themselves, has induced me to relinquish my purpose. Content -therefore with what I have seen myself, and with what I have heard from -others, if chance should not bring me again into their way in -prosecuting my journey into the settled parts of the States, I shall -take no further pains to cultivate a more intimate acquaintance with -them. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXVI. - -_Departure from Malden.—Storm on Lake Erie.—Driven back amongst the - Islands.—Shipwreck narrowly avoided.—Voyage across the Lake.—Land at - Fort Erie.—Proceed to Buffalo Creek.—Engage Indians to go through the - Woods.—Set out on Foot.—Journey through the Woods.—Description of the - Country beyond Buffalo Creek.—Vast Plains.—Grand Appearance of the - Trees here.—Indian Dogs.—Arrival at the Settlements on Genesee - River.—First Settlers.—Their general Character.—Description of the - Country bordering on Genesee River.—Fevers common in Autumn.—Proceed - on Foot to Bath._ - - - Bath, November. - - -[Sidenote: DEPARTURE FROM MALDEN.] - - -TOWARDS the latter end of the month of October, the schooner in which we -had engaged a passage to Presqu’ Isle made her appearance before Malden, -where she was obliged to lay at anchor for three days, the wind not -being favourable for going farther down the river; at the end of that -time, however, it veered about, and we repaired on board, after having -taken a long farewel of our friend Captain E——, whose kindness to us had -been unbounded, and was doubly grateful, inasmuch as it was totally -unexpected by us young strangers, who had not the slighted acquaintance -with him previous to our coming into the country, and had not been -introduced to him even by letter. - -The wind, though favourable, was very light on the morning of our -embarkation, but the current being strong we were soon carried down to -the lake. In the afternoon we passed the islands, which had the most -beautiful appearance imaginable. The rich woods with which the shores -were adorned, now tinged with the hues of autumn, afforded in their -decline a still more pleasing variety to the eye than when they were -clothed in their fulled verdure; and their gaudy colours, intermingled -with the shadows of the rocks, were seen fancifully reflected in the -unruffled surface of the surrounding lake. At day-break the next morning -we found ourselves entirely clear of the land; but instead of the azure -sky and gentle breezes which had favoured us the preceding day, we had -thick hazy weather, and every appearance in the heavens indicated that -before many hours were over we should have to contend with some of those -dangerous storms that are so frequent on Lake Erie. It was not long -indeed ere the winds began to blow, and the waves to rise in a -tremendous manner, and we soon became spectators of a number of those -confused and disgusting scenes which a gale of wind never fails to -occasion in a small vessel crowded with passengers. A number of old -French ladies, who were going to see their grandchildren in Lower -Canada, and who now for the first time in their lives found themselves -on the water, occupied the cabin. The hold of the vessel, boarded from -end to end, and divided simply by a sail suspended from one of the -beams, was filled on one side with steerage passengers, amongst which -were several women and children; and on the opposite one with passengers -who had paid cabin price, but were unable to get any better -accommodation, amongst which number was our party. Not including either -the old ladies in the cabin, or the steerage passengers, we sat down to -dinner each day twenty-six in number, which circumstance, when I inform -you that the vessel was only seventy tons burthen, will best enable you -to conceive how much we must have been crowded. The greater part of the -passengers, drooping under sea-sickness, begged for heaven’s sake that -the captain would put back; but bent upon performing his voyage with -expedition, which was a matter of the utmost consequence indeed, now -that the season was so far advanced, and there was a possibility that he -might be blocked up by the ice on his return, he was deaf to their -entreaties. What the earnest entreaties, however, of the passengers -could not effect, the storm soon compelled him to. It was found -absolutely necessary to seek for a place of shelter to avoid its fury; -and accordingly the helm having been ordered up, we made the best of our -way back again to the islands, in a bay between two of which we cast -anchor. This bay, situated between the Bass Islands, which are among the -largest in the cluster, is called, from its being so frequently resorted -to by vessels that meet with contrary winds in going down the lake, -Put-in-Bay, vulgarly termed by the sailors Pudding Bay. - -[Sidenote: A STORM.] - -Here we lay securely sheltered by the land until four o’clock the next -morning, when the watch upon deck gave the alarm that the vessel was -driving from her anchor, and going fast towards the shore. The captain -started up, and perceiving that the wind had shifted, and the land no -longer afforded any protection to the vessel, he immediately gave orders -to slip the cable, and hoist the jib, in order to wear the vessel round, -and thus get free, if possible, of the shore. In the hurry and confusion -of the moment, however, the mainsail was hoisted at the same time with -the jib, the vessel was put aback, and nothing could have saved her from -going at once on shore but the letting fall of another anchor -instantaneously. I can only account for this unfortunate mistake by -supposing that the men were not sufficiently roused from their slumbers, -on coming upon deck, to hear distinctly the word of command. Only one -man had been left to keep the watch, as it was thought that the vessel -was riding in perfect safety, and from the time that the alarm was first -given until the anchor was dropped scarcely four minutes elapsed. - -The dawn of day only enabled us to see all the danger of our situation. -We were within one hundred yards of a rocky lee shore, and depending -upon one anchor, which, if the gale increased, the captain feared very -much would not hold. The day was wet and squally, and the appearance of -the sky gave us every reason to imagine that the weather, instead of -growing moderate, would become still more tempestuous than it either was -or had been; nevertheless, buoyed up by hope, and by a good share of -animal spirits, we eat our breakfasts regardless of the impending -danger, and afterwards sat down to a game of cards; but scarcely had we -played for one hour when the dismal cry was heard of, “All hands aloft,” -as the vessel was again drifting towards the shore. The day being very -cold, I had thrown a blanket over my shoulders, and had fastened it -round my waist with a girdle, in the Indian fashion; but being incapable -of managing it like an Indian, I stopped to disencumber myself of it -before I went on deck, so that, as it happened, I was the last man -below. The readiest way of going up was through the hatchway, and I had -just got my foot upon the ladder, in order to ascend, when the vessel -struck with great force upon the rocks. The women shrieking now flocked -round me, begging for God’s sake that I would stay by them; at the same -time my companions urged me from above to come up with all possible -speed. To my latest hour I shall never forget the emotions which I felt -at that moment; to have staid below would have been useless; I -endeavoured, therefore, to comfort the poor creatures that clung to me, -and then disengaging myself from them, forced my way upon deck, where I -was no sooner arrived than the hatches were instantly shut down upon the -wretched females, whose shrieks resounded through the vessel, -notwithstanding all the bustle of the seamen, and the tremendous roaring -of the breakers amongst the adjacent rocks. - -Before two minutes had passed over, the vessel struck a second time, but -with a still greater shock; and at the end of a quarter of an hour, -during which period she had gradually approached nearer towards the -shore, she began to strike with the fall of every wave. - -The general opinion now seemed to be in favour of cutting away the -masts, in order to lighten the vessel; and the axes were actually -upraised for that purpose, when one of my companions, who possessed a -considerable share of nautical knowledge from having been in the navy, -opposed the measure. It appeared to him, that as the pumps were still -free, and as the vessel had not yet made more water than could be easily -got under, the cutting away of the masts would only be to deprive -ourselves of the means of getting off the rock if the wind should veer -about; but he advised the captain to have the yards and topmasts cut -away. The masts were spared, and his advice was in every other respect -attended to. The wind unfortunately, however, still continued to blow -from the same point, and the only alteration observable in it was its -blowing with still greater force than ever. - -[Sidenote: A STORM.] - -As the storm increased, the waves began to roll with greater turbulence -than before; and with such impetuosity did they break over the bows of -the vessel, that it was with the very utmost difficulty that I, and half -a dozen more who had taken our station on the forecastle, could hold by -our hands fast enough to save ourselves from being carried overboard. -For upwards of four hours did we remain in this situation, expending -every instant that the vessel would go to pieces, and exposed every -three or four minutes to the shock of one of the tremendous breakers -which came rolling towards us. Many of the billows appeared to be half -as high as the foretop, and sometimes, when they burst over us, our -breath was nearly taken away by the violence of the shock. At last, -finding ourselves so benumbed with cold that it would be impossible for -us to make any exertions in the water to save ourselves if the vessel -was wrecked, we determined to go below, there to remain until we should -be again forced up by the waves. - -Some of the passengers now began to write their wills on scraps of -paper, and to inclose them in what they imagined would be most likely to -preserve them from the water; others had begun to take from their trunks -what they deemed most valuable; and one unfortunate thoughtless man, who -was moving with his family from the upper country, we discovered in the -very act of loading himself with dollars from head to foot, so that had -he fallen into the water in the state we found him, he must inevitably -have been carried to the bottom. - -Words can convey no idea of the wildness that reigned in the countenance -of almost every person as the night approached; and many, terrified with -the apprehensions of a nightly shipwreck, began to lament that the cable -had not been at once cut, so as to have let the vessel go on shore -whilst day-light remained: this indeed had been proposed a few hours -after the vessel began to strike; but it was over-ruled by the captain, -who very properly refused to adopt a measure tending to the immediate -and certain destruction of his vessel, whilst a possibility remained -that she might escape. - -Till nine o’clock at night the vessel kept striking every minute, during -which time we were kept in a state of the most dreadful suspence about -our fate; but then happily the wind shifted one or two points in our -favour, which occasioned the vessel to roll instead of striking. At -midnight the gale grew somewhat more moderate; and at three in the -morning it was so far abated, that the men were enabled to haul on the -anchor, and in a short time to bring the vessel once more into deep -water, and out of all danger. Great was the joy, as may well be -imagined, which this circumstance diffused amongst the passengers; and -well pleased was each one, after the fatigue and anxiety of the -preceding day, to think he might securely lay himself down to rest. - -The next morning the sun arose in all his majesty from behind one of the -distant islands. The azure sky was unobscured by a single cloud, the air -felt serenely mild, and the birds, as if equally delighted with man that -the storm was over, sweetly warbled forth their songs in the adjacent -woods; in short, had it not been for the disordered condition in which -we saw our vessel, and every thing belonging to us, the perils we had -gone through would have appeared like a dream. - -[Sidenote: DAMAGE DONE THE SHIP.] - -The first object of examination was the rudder. The tiller was broken to -atoms; and the sailors who went over the stern reported, that of the -four gudgeons or hooks on which the rudder was suspended, only one was -left entire, and that one was much bent. On being unshipped, the bottom -of it was found to be so much shivered that it actually resembled the -end of a broom. The keel, there was every reason to suppose, was in the -same shattered condition; nevertheless the vessel, to the great -astonishment of every person on board, did not make much water. Had she -been half as crazy as the King’s vessel in which we went up the lake, -nothing could have saved her from destruction. - -A consultation was now held upon what was best to be done. To proceed on -the voyage appeared totally out of the question; and it only remained to -determine which way was the easiest and readiest to get back to Malden. -All was at a stand, when an officer in the American service proposed the -beating out of an iron crow bar, and the manufacturing of new gudgeons. -This was thought to be impracticable; but necessity, the mother of -invention, having set all our heads to work, an anvil was formed of a -number of axes laid upon a block of wood; a large fire was kindled, and -a party of us acting as smiths in turns, by the end of three hours -contrived to hammer out one very respectable gudgeon. - -In the mean time others of the passengers were employed in making a new -tiller, and others undertook to fish for the cable and anchor that had -been slipped, whilst the sailors were kept busily employed at the -rigging. By nightfall the vessel was so far refitted that no -apprehensions were any longer entertained about our being able to reach -Malden in safety, and some began to think there would be no danger in -prosecuting the voyage down the lake. The captain said that his conduct -must be regulated entirely by the appearance of the weather on the -following day. - -[Sidenote: MEET TWO YOUNG TRAVELLERS.] - -Early the next morning, whilst we yet remained stretched in our births, -our party was much surprised at hearing the sound of strange voices upon -deck; but our surprise was still greater, when on a nearer approach we -recognized them to be the voices of two young friends of ours, who, like -ourselves, had crossed the Atlantic to make a tour of the continent of -North America, and whom, but a few days before we had quitted -Philadelphia, we had accompanied some miles from that city on their way -towards the south. They had travelled, it seemed, from Philadelphia to -Virginia, afterwards to Kentucky, and had found their way from the Ohio -to Detroit on horseback, after encountering numberless inconveniences. -There they had engaged a passage in a little sloop bound to Fort Erie, -the last vessel which was to quit that port during the present season. -They had embarked the preceding day, and in the night had run in to -Put-in-Bay, as the wind was not favourable for going down the lake. The -commander of the sloop offered to stay by our vessel, and to give her -every assistance in his power, if our captain chose to proceed down the -lake with him. The offer was gladly accepted, and it was agreed that the -two vessels should sail together as soon as the wind was favourable. - -After having breakfasted, we proceeded with our young friends, in the -ship’s boat, to that part of the island off which we had been exposed to -so much danger. Here we found the shore strewed with the oars, spars, -&c. which had been washed overboard, and from the dreadful manner in -which they were shattered, no doubt remained on our minds, but that if -the vessel had been wrecked, two thirds of the passengers at least must -have perished amidst the rocks and breakers. We spent the day rambling -about the woods, and recounting to each other our adventures since the -last separation, and in the evening returned to our respective ships. -About midnight the wind became fair, and whilst we lay wrapt in sleep -the vessels put to sea. - -All hopes of being able to get on shore at Presqu’ Isle were now over, -for the captain, as our vessel was in such a ticklish condition, was -fearful of venturing in there, lest he might lose sight of the sloop; we -made up our minds, therefore, for being carried once more to our old -quarters, Fort Erie; and after a most disagreeable passage of four days, -during which we encountered several squalls not a little alarming, -landed there in safety. - -[Sidenote: ENGAGE INDIAN GUIDES.] - -Our friends immediately set out for Newark, from whence, if the season -would admit of it, and a favourable opportunity offered, they proposed -to sail to Kingston, and proceed afterwards to Lower Canada; we, on the -contrary, desirous of returning by a different route from that by which -we had come up the country, crossed over to Buffalo Creek, in hopes of -being able to procure horses at the Indian village there, to carry us -through the Genesee country. To our disappointment we found, that all -the Indians of the village who had horses had already set out with them -on their hunting expedition; but the interpreters told us, that if we -would consent to walk through the woods, as far as the settlements of -the white people, the nearest of which was ninety miles from Buffalo -Creek, he did not doubt but that he could find Indians in the village -who would undertake to carry our baggage for us; and that once arrived -at the back settlements, we should find it no difficult matter to hire -horses. We readily agreed to his proposals, and he in consequence soon -picked out from the Indians five men, amongst which was a war chief, on -whom he told us we might place every reliance, as he was a man of an -excellent character. The Indians, it was settled, were to have five -dollars apiece for their services, and we were to furnish them with -provisions and liquor. The interpreter, who was a white man, put us on -our guard against giving them too much of the latter; but he advised us -always to give them some whenever we took any ourselves, and advised us -also to eat with them, and to behave towards them in every respect as if -they were our equals. We had already seen enough of the Indians, to know -that this advice was good, and indeed to have adopted of ourselves the -line of conduct which he recommended, even if he had said nothing on the -subject. - -Having arranged every thing to our satisfaction, we returned to Fort -Erie; there we disposed of all our superfluous baggage, and having made -some addition to the stores of dried provisions and biscuits which our -kind friend Captain E—— had furnished us with on leaving his hospitable -roof, we embarked, with all belonging to us, in the ship’s boat, for the -village on Buffalo Creek, where we had settled to pass the night, in -order to be ready to start early the next morning. - -[Sidenote: JOURNEY THROUGH THE WOODS.] - -The Indians were with us according to appointment at day-break; they -divided the baggage, fastened their loads each on their carrying frames, -and appeared perfectly ready to depart, when their chief requested, -through the interpreter, “that we would give them before they set out a -little of that precious water we possessed, to wash their eyes with, -which would dispel the mists of sleep that still hung over them, and -thus enable them to find out with certainty the intricate path through -the thick forest we were about to traverse;” in other words, that we -would give them some brandy. It is always in figurative language of this -kind that the Indians ask for spirits. We dispensed a glass full of the -precious liquor, according to their desire, to each of them, as well as -to their squaws and children, whom they brought along with them to share -our bounty, and then, the Indians having taken up their loads, we -penetrated into the woods, along a narrow path scarcely discernible, -owing to the quantities of withered leaves with which it was strewed. - -After proceeding a few miles, we stopped by the side of a little stream -of clear water to breakfast; on the banks of another stream we eat our -dinner; and at a third we stopped for the night. Having laid down their -loads, the Indians immediately began to erect poles, and cover them with -pieces of bark, which they found lying on the ground, and which had -evidently been left there by some travellers who had taken up their -quarters for the night at this same place some time before; but we put a -stop to their work, by shaking out from the bag in which it was -deposited, our travelling tent. They perceived now that they must employ -themselves in a different manner, and knowing perfectly well what was to -be done, they at once set to work with their tomahawks in cutting poles -and pegs. In less than five minutes, as we all bore a part, the poles -and pegs were cut, and the tent pitched. - -One of the Indians now made signs to us to lend him a bag, having -received which he ran into the woods, and was soon out of sight. We were -at a loss to guess what he was in pursuit of; but in a little time he -returned with the bag full of the finest cranberries I ever beheld. In -the mean time another of them, of his own accord, busied himself in -carrying heaps of dried leaves into the tent, which, with our buffalo -skins, afforded luxurious beds to men like us, that had slept on nothing -better than a board for upwards of a month past. In the upper country it -is so customary for travellers to carry their own bedding, that even at -our friend Captain E——’s house we had no other accommodation at night -than the floor of an empty room, on which we spread our skins. As for -themselves, the Indians thought of no covering whatsoever, but simply -stretched themselves on the ground beside the fire, where they lay like -dogs or cats till morning. At day-break we started, and stopped as on -the preceding day beside streams of water to eat our breakfasts and -dinners. - -[Sidenote: JOURNEY THROUGH THE WOODS.] - -From Buffalo Creek to the place where we encamped on the first night, -distant about twenty-five miles, the country being very flat, and the -trees growing so closely together that it was impossible to see farther -forward in any direction than fifty yards, our journey after a short -time became very uninteresting. Nothing in its kind, however, could -exceed the beauty of the scenery that we met with during our second -day’s journey. We found the country, as we passed along, interspersed -with open plains of great magnitude, some of them not less, I should -suppose, than fifteen or twenty miles in circumference. The trees on the -borders of these having ample room to spread, were luxuriant beyond -description, and shot forth their branches with all the grandeur and -variety which characterizes the English timber, particularly the oak. -The woods round the plains were indented in every direction with bays -and promontories, as Mr. Gilpin terms it, whilst rich clumps of trees, -interspersed here and there, appeared like so many clusters of beautiful -islands. The varied hues of the woods at this season of the year, in -America, can hardly be imagined by those who never have had an -opportunity of observing them; and indeed, as others have often remarked -before, were a painter to attempt to colour a picture from them, it -would be condemned in Europe as totally different from any thing that -ever existed in nature. - -These plains are covered with long coarse grass, which, at a future day, -will probably afford feeding to numerous herds of cattle; at present -they are totally unfrequented. Throughout the north-western territory of -the States, and even beyond the head waters of the Mississippi, the -country is interspersed with similar plains; and the farther you proceed -to the westward, the more extensive in general are they. Amidst those to -the westward are found numerous herds of buffaloes, elks, and other wild -graminivorous animals; and formerly animals of the same description were -found on these plains in the state of New York, but they have all -disappeared long since, owing to their having been so constantly pursued -both by the Indians and white people. - -Very different opinions have been entertained respecting the deficiency -of trees on these extended tracts of land, in the midst of a country -that abounds so generally with wood. Some have attributed it to the -poverty of the soil; whilst others have maintained, that the plains were -formerly covered with trees, as well as other parts of the country, but -that the trees have either been destroyed by fire, or by buffaloes, -beavers, and other animals. - -[Sidenote: JOURNEY THROUGH THE WOODS.] - -It is well known that buffaloes, in all those parts of the country where -they are found wild, commit great depredations amongst the trees, by -gnawing off the bark; they are also very fond of feeding upon the young -trees that spring up from seed, as well as upon the suckers of the old -ones; it may readily be imagined, therefore, that the entire of the -trees, on very extended tracts of land, might be thus killed by them; -and as the American timber, when left exposed to the weather, soon -decays, at the end of a few years no vestige of the woods would be found -on these tracts, any more than if they had been consumed by fire. - -It appears to me, however, that there is more weight in the opinion of -those, who ascribe the deficiency of trees on the plains to the -unfriendliness of the soil; for the earth towards the surface is -universally very light, and of a deep black colour, and on digging but a -few inches downwards you come to a cold stiff clay. On Long Island, in -the state of New York, plains are met with nearly similar to these in -the back country, and the Dutch farmers, who have made repeated trials -of the soil, find that it will not produce wheat or any other grain, -and, in short, nothing that is at all profitable except coarse grass. I -make no doubt but that whenever a similar trial comes to be made of the -soil of the plains to the westward, it will be found equally incapable -of producing any thing but what it does at present. - -[Sidenote: JOURNEY THROUGH THE WOODS.] - -After having passed over a great number of these plains of different -sizes, we entered once more into the thick woods; but the country here -appeared much more diversified with rising grounds than it was in any -part we had already traversed. As we were ascending to the top of a -small eminence in the thickest part of these woods, towards the close of -our second day’s journey, our Indian chief, _China-breast-plate_, who -received that name in consequence of his having worn in the American war -a thick china dish as an ornament on his breast, made a sign to us to -follow him to the left of the path. We did so, and having proceeded for -a few yards, suddenly found ourselves on the margin of a deep extensive -pit, not unlike an exhausted quarry, that had lain neglected for many -years. The area of it contained about two acres, and it approached to a -circular form; the sides were extremely steep, and seemed in no place to -be less than forty feet high; in some parts they were considerably -higher. Near the center of the place was a large pond, and round the -edges of it, as well as round the bottom of the precipice, grew several -very lofty pines. The walls of the precipice consisted of a whitish -substance not unlike lime-stone half calcined, and round the margin of -the pit, at top, lay several heaps of loose matter resembling -lime-rubbish. _China-breast-plate_, standing on the brink of the -precipice, began to tell us a long story, and pointing to a distant -place beyond it, frequently mentioned the word Niagara. Whether, -however, the story related to the pit, or whether it related to the -Falls of Niagara, the smoke arising from which it is by no means -improbable might be seen, at times, from the elevated spot where we -stood, or whether the story related to both, we could in no way learn, -as we were totally unacquainted with the Seneka language, and he was -nearly equally ignorant of the English. I never met with any person -afterwards who had seen this place, or who knew any thing relating to -it. Though we made repeated signs to _China-breast-plate_ that we did -not understand his story, he still went on with it for near a quarter of -an hour; the other Indians listened to it with great attention, and -seemed to take no small interest in what he said. - -I should have mentioned to you before, that both the Indians and the -white Americans pronounce the word Niagara differently from what we do. -The former lay the accent on the second syllable, and pronounce the word -full and broad as if written Nee-awg-ara. The Americans likewise lay the -accent on the second syllable; but pronounce it short, and give the same -sound to the letters I and A as we do. Niagara, in the language of the -neighbouring Indians, signifies a mighty rushing or fall of water. - -On the second evening of our expedition we encamped on a small hill, -from whose top there was a most pleasing romantic view, along a stream -of considerable size which wound round its base, and as far as our eyes -could reach, appeared tumbling in small falls over ledges of rocks. A -fire being kindled, and the tent pitched as usual, the Indians sat down -to cook some squirrels which we had killed on the borders of the plains. -These animals the Indians had observed, as we came along, on the top of -a large hollow tree; they immediately laid down their loads, and each -taking out his tomahawk, and setting to work at a different part of the -tree, it was felled down in less than five minutes, and such of the -squirrels as escaped their dogs we readily shot for them. - -The Indian dogs, in general, have short legs, long backs, large pricked -up ears, and long curly tails; they differ from the common English cur -dogs in no respect so much as in their barking but very seldom. They are -extremely sagacious, and seem to understand even what their masters say -to them in a low voice, without making any signs, either with the hand -or head. - -[Sidenote: JOURNEY THROUGH THE WOODS.] - -Whilst the squirrels were roasting on a forked stick stuck in the -ground, and bent over the fire, one of the Indians went into the woods, -and brought out several small boughs of a tree, apparently of the willow -tribe. Having carefully scraped the bark off from these, he made a sort -of frame with the twigs, in shape somewhat like a gridiron, and heaping -upon it the scraped bark, placed it over the fire to dry. When it was -tolerably crisp he rubbed it between his hands, and put it up in his -pouch for the purpose of smoking. - -The Indians smoke the bark of many different trees, and a great variety -of herbs and leaves besides tobacco. The most agreeable of any of the -substances which they smoke are the leaves of the sumach tree, -rhus-toxicodendron. This is a graceful shrub, which bears leaves -somewhat similar to those of the ash. Towards the latter end of autumn -they turn of a bright red colour, and when wanted for smoking are -plucked off and dried in the sun. Whilst burning they afford a very -agreeable perfume. These leaves are very commonly smoked, mixed with -tobacco, by the white people of the country; the smoke of them by -themselves alone, is said to be prejudicial to the lungs. The sumach -tree bears tufted bunches of crimson flowers. One of these bunches -dipped lightly, for a few times, into a bowl of punch, gives the liquor -a very agreeable acid, and in the southern states it is common to use -them for that purpose, but it is a dangerous custom, as the acid, though -extremely agreeable to the palate, is of a poisonous quality, and never -fails to produce a most alarming effect on the bowels if used too -freely. - -A sharp frost set in this night, and on the following morning, at -day-break, we recommenced our journey with crossing the river already -mentioned up to our waists in water, no very pleasing task. Both on this -and the subsequent day we had to wade through several other considerable -streams. - -A few squirrels were the only wild animals which we met with in our -journey through the woods, and the most solemn silence imaginable -reigned throughout, except where a woodpecker was heard now and then -tapping with its bill against a hollow tree. The birds in general flock -towards the settlements, and it is a very rare circumstance to meet with -them in the depth of the forest. - -[Sidenote: MISTAKEN SETTLERS.] - -The third evening we encamped as usual. No sooner had we come to our -resting place, than the Indians threw off their clothes, and rolled -themselves on the grass just as horses would do, to refresh themselves, -the day having proved very hot, notwithstanding the frost the preceding -night. We were joined this evening by another party of the Seneka -Indians, who were going to a village situated on the Genesee River, and -in the morning we all set out together. Early in the day we came to -several plains similar to those we had before met with, but not so -extended, on the borders of one of which we saw, for the first time, a -bark hut apparently inhabited. On going up to it, our surprise was not a -little to find two men, whose appearance and manners at once bespoke -them not to be Americans. After some conversation we discovered them to -be two Englishmen, who had formerly lived in London as _valets de -chambre_, and having scraped together a little money, had set out for -New York, where they expected at once to become great men; however they -soon found to their cost, that the expence of living in that city was -not suited to their pockets, and they determined to go and settle in the -back country. They were at no loss to find persons who had land to -dispose of, and happening to fall in with a jobber who owned some of -these plains, and who painted to them in lively colours the advantage -they would derive from settling on good land already cleared to their -hand, they immediately purchased a considerable track of this barren -ground at a round price, and set out to fix themselves upon it. From the -neighbouring settlements, which were about ten miles off, they procured -the assistance of two men, who after having built for them the bark hut -in which we found them left them with a promise of returning in a short -time to erect a log house. They had not, however, been punctual to their -word, and unable to wield an axe, or to do any one thing for themselves, -these unfortunate wretches sat moping in their hut, supporting -themselves on some salt provisions they had brought with them, but which -were now nearly exhausted. The people in the settlements, whom, on -arriving there, we asked some few questions respecting these poor -creatures, turned them into the greatest ridicule imaginable for being -so helpless; and indeed they did present a most striking picture of the -folly of any man’s attempting to settle in America without being well -acquainted with the country previously, and competent to do every sort -of country work for himself. - -[Sidenote: DRUNKEN INDIANS.] - -It was not without very great vexation that we perceived, shortly after -leaving this hut, evident symptoms of drunkenness in one of the Indians, -and on examining our brandy cask it was but too plain that it had been -pillaged. During the preceding part of our journey we had kept a -watchful eye upon it, but drawing towards the end of our expedition, and -having had every reason to be satisfied with the conduct of the Indians, -we had not paid sufficient attention to it this day; and though it could -not have been much more than five minutes out of our sight, yet in that -short space of time the screw had been forced, and the cask drained to -the last drop. The Indian, whom we discovered to be drunk, was advanced -a little before the others. He went on for some time staggering about -from side to side, but at last, stopping and laying hold of his scalping -knife, which they always carry with them by their sides, he began to -brandish it with a threatening air. There is but one line of conduct to -be pursued when you have to deal with Indians in such a situation, and -that is, to act with the most determined resolution. If you betray the -smallest symptoms of fear, or appear at all wavering in your conduct, it -only serves to render them more ungovernable and furious. I accordingly -took him by the shoulder, pushed him forward, and presenting my piece, -gave him to underhand that I would shoot him if he did not behave -himself properly. My companions, whilst I was taking care of him, went -back to see in what state the other Indians were. Luckily the liquor, -though there was reason to apprehend they had all had a share of it, had -not made the same impression upon them. One of them, indeed, was -beginning to be refractory, and absolutely threw down his load, and -refused to go farther; but a few words from _China-breast-plate_ induced -him to resume it, and to go on. On coming up to the first Indian, and -seeing the sad state he was in, they shook their heads, and crying, “No -good Indian,” “No good Indian,” endeavoured by signs to inform us that -it was he who had pillaged the cask, and drank all the brandy; but as it -was another Indian who carried the cask, no doubt remained but that they -must all have had a share of the plunder; that the first fellow, -however, had drank more than the rest was apparent; for in a few minutes -he dropped down speechless under his load; the others hastened to take -it off from his back, and having divided it amongst themselves, they -drew him aside from the path, and threw him under some bushes, where he -was left to sleep till he should come again to his senses. - -[Sidenote: GENESEE RIVER.] - -About noon we reached the Genesee River, at the opposite side of which -was situated the village where we expected to procure horses. We crossed -the river in canoes, and took up our quarters at a house at the -uppermost end of the village, where we were very glad to find our Indian -friends could get no accommodation, for we knew well that the first use -they would make of the money we were going to give them would be to buy -liquor, and intoxicate themselves, in which state they would not fail of -becoming very troublesome companions; it was scarcely dark indeed when -news was brought us from a house near the river, that they went to after -we had discharged them, that they were grown quite outrageous with the -quantity of spirits they had drank, and were fighting and cutting each -other in a most dreadful manner. They never resent the injuries they -receive from any person that is evidently intoxicated, but attribute -their wounds entirely to the liquor, on which they vent their -execrations for all the mischief it has committed. - -Before I dismiss the subject entirely, I must observe to you, that the -Indians did not seem to think the carrying of our baggage was in any -manner degrading to them; and after having received their due, they -shook hands with us, and parted from us, not as from employers who had -hired them, but as from friends whom they had been assisting, and were -now sorry to leave. - -The village where we stopped consisted of about eight or nine straggling -houses; the best built one among them was that in which we lodged. It -belonged to a family from New England, who about six years before had -penetrated to this spot, then covered with woods, and one hundred and -fifty miles distant from any other settlement. Settlements are now -scattered over the whole of the country which they had to pass through -in coming to it. The house was commodious and well built, and the people -decent, civil, and reputable. It is a very rare circumstance to meet -with such people amongst the first settlers on the frontiers; in general -they are men of a morose and savage disposition, and the very outcasts -of society, who bury themselves in the woods, as if desirous to shun the -face of their fellow creatures; there they build a rude habitation, and -clear perhaps three or four acres of land, just as much as they find -sufficient to provide their families with corn: for the greater part of -their food they depend on their rifle guns. These people, as the -settlements advance, are succeeded in general by a second set of men, -less savage than the first, who clear more land, and do not depend so -much upon hunting as upon agriculture for their subsistence. A third set -succeed these in turn, who build good houses, and bring the land into a -more improved state. The first settlers, as soon as they have disposed -of their miserable dwellings to advantage, immediately penetrate farther -back into the woods, in order to gain a place of abode suited to their -rude mode of life. These are the lawless people who encroach, as I have -before mentioned, on the Indian territory, and are the occasion of the -bitter animosities between the whites and the Indians. The second -settlers, likewise, when displaced, seek for similar places to what -those that they have left were when they first took them. I found, as I -proceeded through this part of the country, that there was scarcely a -man who had not changed his place of abode seven or eight different -times. - -As none but very miserable horses were to be procured at this village on -the Genesee River, and as our expedition through the woods had given us -a relish for walking, we determined to proceed on foot, and merely to -hire horses to carry our baggage; accordingly, having engaged a pair, -and a boy to conduct them, we set off early on the second morning from -that of our arrival at the village, for the town of Bath. - -[Sidenote: PICTURESQUE VIEWS.] - -The country between these two places is most agreeably diversified with -hill and dale, and as the traveller passes over the hills which overlook -the Genesee River and the flats bordering upon it, he is entertained -with a variety of noble and picturesque views. We were particularly -struck with the prospect from a large, and indeed very handsome house in -its kind, belonging to a Major Wadsworth, built on one of these hills. -The Genesee River, bordered with the richest woods imaginable, might be -seen from it for many miles, meandering through a fertile country; and -beyond the flats, on each side of the river, appeared several ranges of -blue hills rising up one behind another in a most fanciful manner, the -whole together forming a most beautiful landscape. Here, however, in the -true American taste, the greatest pains were taking to diminish, and, -indeed, to shut out all the beauties of the prospect; every tree in the -neighbourhood of the house was felled to the ground; instead of a neat -lawn, for which the ground seemed to be singularly well disposed, a -wheat field was laid down in front of it; and at the bottom of the -slope, at the distance of two hundred yards from the house, a town was -building by the major, which, when completed, would effectually screen -from the dwelling house every sight of the river and mountains. The -Americans, as I before observed, seem to be totally dead to the beauties -of nature, and only to admire a spot of ground as it appears to be more -or less calculated to enrich the occupier by its produce. - -The Genesee River takes its name from a lofty hill in the Indian -territory, near to which it passes, called by the Indians Genesee, a -word signifying, in their language, a grand extensive prospect. - -[Sidenote: GENESEE RIVER.] - -The flats bordering upon the Genesee River are amongst the richest lands -that are to be met with in North America, to the east of the Ohio. -Wheat, as I told you in a former letter, will not grow upon them; and it -is not found that the soil is impoverished by the successive crops of -Indian corn and hemp that are raised upon them year after year. The -great fertility of these flats is to be ascribed to the regular annual -overflowing of the Genesee River, whose waters are extremely muddy, and -leave no small quantity of slime behind them before they return to their -natural channel. That river empties itself into Lake Ontario: it is -somewhat more than one hundred miles in length, but only navigable for -the last forty miles of its course, except at the time of the -inundations; and even then the navigation is not uninterrupted the whole -way down to the lake, there being three considerable falls in the river -about ten miles above its mouth: the greatest of these falls is said to -be ninety feet in perpendicular height. The high lands in the -neighbourhood of the Genesee River are stony, and are not distinguished -for their fertility, but the valleys are all extremely fruitful, and -abound with rich timber. - -The summers in this part of the country are by no means so hot as -towards the Atlantic, and the winters are moderate; it is seldom, -indeed, that the snow lies on the ground much longer than six or seven -weeks; but notwithstanding this circumstance, and that the face of the -country is so much diversified with rising grounds, yet the whole of it -is dreadfully unhealthy; scarcely a family escapes the baneful effects -of the fevers that rage here during the autumn season. I was informed by -the inhabitants, that much fewer persons had been attacked by the fever -the last season than during former years, and of these few a very small -number died, the fever having proved much less malignant than it was -ever known to be before. This circumstance led the inhabitants to hope, -that as the country became more cleared it would become much more -healthy. It is well known, indeed, that many parts of the country, which -were extremely healthy while they remained covered with wood, and which -also proved healthy after they had been generally cleared and settled, -were very much otherwise when the trees were first cut down: this has -been imputed to the vapours arising from the newly cleared lands on -their being first exposed to the burning rays of the sun, and which, -whilst the newly cleared spots remain surrounded by woods, there is not -a sufficient circulation of air to dispel. The unhealthiness of the -country at present does not deter numbers of people from coming to -settle here every year, and few parts of North America can boast of a -more rapid improvement than the Genesee country during the last four -years. - -[Sidenote: SMALL TOWNS.] - -In our way to Bath we passed through several small towns that had been -lately begun, and in these the houses were comfortable and neatly built; -but the greater part of those of the farmers were wretched indeed; one -at which we stopped for the night, in the course of our journey, had not -even a chimney or window to it; a large hole at the end of the roof -supplied the deficiency of both; the door was of such a nature, also, as -to make up in some measure for the want of a window, as it admitted -light on all sides. A heavy fall of snow happened to take place whilst -we were at this house, and as we lay stretched on our skins beside the -fire, at night, the snow was blown, in no small quantities, through the -crevices of the door, under our very ears. - -At some of these houses we got plenty of venison, and good butter, milk, -and bread; but at others we could get nothing whatsoever to eat. At one -little village, consisting of three or four houses, the people told us, -that they had not even sufficient bread and milk for themselves; and, -indeed, the scantiness of the meal to which we saw them sitting down -confirmed the truth of what they said. We were under the necessity of -walking on for nine miles beyond this village before we could get any -thing to satisfy our appetites. - -The fall of snow, which I have mentioned, interrupted our progress -through the woods very considerably the subsequent morning; it all -disappeared, however, before the next night, and in the course of the -third day from that on which we left the banks of the Genesee River we -reached the place of our destination. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXVII. - -_Account of Bath.—Of the Neighbourhood.—Singular Method taken to improve - it.—Speculators.—Description of one, in a Letter from an - American Farmer.—Conhorton Creek.—View of the Navigation - from Bath downwards.—Leave Bath for Newtown.—Embark in - Canoes.—Stranded in the Night.—Seek for Shelter in a neighbouring - House.—Difficulty of procuring Provisions.—Resume our - Voyage.—Lochartsburgh.—Description of the eastern Branch of the - Susquehannah River.—French Town.—French and Americans ill suited to - each other.—Wilkes-barré.—Mountains in the Neighbourhood.—Country - thinly settled towards Philadelphia.—Description of the Wind-Gap in - the Blue Mountains.—Summary Account of the Moravian Settlement at - Bethlehem.—Return to Philadelphia._ - - - Philadelphia, November. - -[Sidenote: BATH.] - - -BATH is a post town, and the principal town in the western parts of the -state of New York. Though laid out only three years ago, yet it already -contains about thirty houses, and is increasing very fast. Amongst the -houses are several stores or shops well furnished with goods, and a -tavern that would not be thought meanly of in any part of America. This -town was founded by a gentleman who formerly bore the rank of captain in -his Majesty’s service; he has likewise been the founder of Williamsburgh -and Falkner’s Town; and indeed to his exertions, joined to those of a -few other individuals, may be ascribed the improvement of the whole of -this part of the country, best known in America by the name of the -Genesee Country, or the County of the Lakes, from its being watered by -that river, and a great number of small lakes. - -[Sidenote: LAND SPECULATION.] - -The landed property of which this gentleman, who founded Bath, &c. has -had the active management, is said to have amounted originally to no -less than six millions of acres, the greater part of which belonged to -an individual in England. The method he has taken to improve this -property has been, by granting land in small portions and on long -credits to individuals who would immediately improve it, and in larger -portions and on a shorter credit to others who purchased on speculation, -the lands in both cases being mortgaged for the payment of the purchase -money; thus, should the money not be paid at the appointed time, he -could not be a loser, as the lands were to be returned to him, and -should they happen to be at all improved, as was most likely to be the -case, he would be a considerable gainer even by having them returned on -his hands; moreover, if a poor man, willing to settle on his land, had -not money sufficient to build a house and to go on with the necessary -improvements, he has at once supplied him, having had a large capital -himself, with what money he wanted for that purpose, or sent his own -workmen, of whom he keeps a prodigious number employed, to build a house -for him, at the same time taking the man’s note at three, four, or five -years, for the cost of the house, &c. with interest. If the man should -be unable to pay at the appointed time, the house, mortgaged like the -lands, must revert to the original proprietor, and the money arising -from its sale, and that of the farm adjoining, partly improved, will in -all probability be found to amount to more than what the poor man had -promised to pay for it: but a man taking up land in America in this -manner, at a moderate price, cannot fail, if industrious, of making -money sufficient to pay for it, as well as for a house, at the appointed -time. - -The numbers that have been induced by these temptations, not to be met -with elsewhere in the States, to settle in the Genesee County, is -astonishing; and numbers are still flocking to it every year, as not one -third of the lands are yet disposed of. It was currently reported in the -county, as I passed through it, that this gentleman, of whom I have been -speaking, had, in the notes of the people to whom he had sold land -payable at the end of three, or four, or five years, the immense sum of -two millions of dollars. The original cost of the land was not more than -a few pence per acre; what therefore must be the profits! - -It may readily be imagined, that the granting of land on such very easy -terms could not fail to draw crowds of speculators (a sort of gentry -with which America abounds in every quarter) to this part of the -country; and indeed we found, as we passed along, that every little town -and village throughout the country abounded with them, and each place, -in consequence, exhibited a picture of idleness and dissipation. The -following letter, supposed to come from a farmer, though somewhat -ludicrous, does not give an inaccurate description of one of these young -speculators, and of what is going on in this neighbourhood. It appeared -in a news-paper published at Wilkes-barré, on the Susquehannah, and I -give it to you verbatim, because, being written by an American, it will -perhaps carry more weight with it than any thing I could say on the same -subject. - -[Sidenote: METHOD OF IMPROVING PROPERTY.] - - - - “To the Printers of the Wilkes-barré Gazette. - - “Gentlemen, - - “It is painful to reflect, that speculation has raged to such a - degree of late, that honest industry, and all the humble virtues - that walk in her train, are discouraged and rendered - unfashionable. - - “It is to be lamented too, that dissipation is sooner introduced - in new settlements than industry and economy. - - “I have been led to these reflections by conversing with my son, - who has just returned from the Lakes or Genesee, though he has - neither been to the one or the other;—in short, he has been to - Bath, the celebrated Bath, and has returned both a speculator - and a gentleman; having spent his money, swopped away my horse, - caught the fever and ague, and, what is infinitely worse, that - horrid disorder which some call the terra-phobia[18].” - -Footnote 18: - - Our farmer does not seem to have well understood the import of - this word, but we may readily guess at his meaning. - - “We can hear nothing from the poor creature now (in his ravings) - but of the captain and Billy—of ranges—townships— - numbers—thousands—hundreds—acres—Bath— - fairs—races—heats—bets—purses—silk - stockings—fortunes—fevers—agues, &c. &c. &c. My son has part of - a township for sale, and it is diverting enough to hear him - narrate its pedigree, qualities, and situation. In fine, it lies - near Bath, and the captain himself once owned, and for a long - time reserved it. It cost my son but five dollars per acre; he - was offered six in half a minute after his purchase; but he is - positively determined to have eight, besides some precious - reserves. One thing is very much in my boy’s favour—he has six - years credit. Another thing is still more so—he is not worth a - sous, nor ever will be at this rate. Previous to his late - excursion the lad worked well, and was contented at home on my - farm; but now work is out of the question with him. There is no - managing my boy at home; these golden dreams still beckon him - back to Bath, where, as he says, no one need either work or - starve; where, though a man may have the ague nine months in the - year, he may console himself in spending the other three - fashionably at the races. - - “_A Farmer._” - - “_Hanover, October 25th, 1796._” - -The town of Bath stands on a plain, surrounded on three sides by hills -of a moderate height. The plain is almost wholly divested of its trees; -but the hills are still uncleared, and have a very pleasing appearance -from the town. At the foot of the hills runs a stream of pure water, -over a bed of gravel, which is called Conhocton Creek. There is a very -considerable fall in this creek just above the town, which affords one -of the finest seats for mills possible. Extensive saw and flour mills -have already been erected upon it, the principal saw in the former of -which gave, when we visited the mill, one hundred and twenty strokes in -a minute, sufficient to cut, in the same space of time, seven square -feet, superficial measure, of oak timber; yet the miller informed us, -that when the water was high it would cut much faster. - -[Sidenote: CONHOCTON CREEK.] - -Conhocton Creek, about twenty miles below Bath, falls into Tyoga River, -which, after a course of about thirty miles, empties itself into the -eastern branch of the River Susquehannah. During floods you may go down -in light bateaux along the creek, Tyoga and Susquehannah rivers, the -whole way from Bath to the Chesapeak Bay, without interruption; and in -the fall of the year there is generally water sufficient for canoes from -Bath downwards; but owing to the great drought that prevailed through -every part of the country this year, the depth of water in the creek was -found insufficient to float even a canoe of the smallest size. Had it -been practicable, it was our intention to have proceeded from Bath by -water; but finding that it was not, we once more set off on foot, and -pursued our way along the banks of the river till we came to a small -village of eight or ten houses, called Newtown, about thirty miles -distant from Bath. Here we found the stream tolerably deep, and the -people informed us, that excepting at one or two narrow shoals, they -were certain that in every part of it, lower down, there was sufficient -water for canoes; accordingly, determined to be our own watermen, being -five in number including our servants, we purchased a couple of canoes -from two farmers, who lived on the banks of the river, and having lashed -them together, in order to render them more steady and safe, we put our -baggage on board, and boldly embarked. - -[Sidenote: CANOES STRANDED.] - -It was about three o’clock on a remarkably clear though cold afternoon -that we left the village, and the current being strong, we hoped to be -able to reach before night a tavern, situated, as we were told, on the -banks of the river, about six miles below Newtown. For the first two -miles we got on extremely well; but beyond this the river proving to be -much shallower than we had been led to believe, we found it a matter of -the utmost difficulty to proceed. Our canoes repeatedly struck upon the -shoals, and so much time was consumed in setting them again free, that -before we had accomplished more than two thirds of our voyage the day -closed. As night advanced a very sensible change was observable in the -weather; a heavy shower of hail came pouring down, and, involved in -thick darkness, whilst the moon was obscured by a cloud, our canoes were -drifted by the current, to which, being unable to see our way, we had -consigned them, on a bank in the middle of the river. In endeavouring to -extricate ourselves we unfortunately, owing to the darkness, took a -wrong direction, and at the end of a few minutes found our canoes so -firmly wedged in the gravel that it was impossible to move them. Nothing -now remained to be done but for every one of us to jump into the water, -and to put his shoulder to the canoes. This we accordingly did, and -having previously unlashed, in order to render them more manageable, we -in a short time contrived to haul one of them into deep water; here, -however, the rapidity of the current was so great, that notwithstanding -all our endeavours to the contrary, the canoe was forcibly swept away -from us, and in the attempt to hold it fast we had the misfortune to see -it nearly filled with water. - -Deprived thus of one of our canoes, and of a great part of our baggage -in it, which, for ought we knew, was irrecoverably lost, we determined -to proceed more cautiously with the remaining one; having returned, -therefore, to the bank, we carried every thing that was in the canoe on -our shoulders to the shore, which was about forty yards distant; no very -easy or agreeable task, as the water reached up to our waists, and the -current was so strong that it was with the utmost difficulty we could -keep our feet. The canoe being emptied, we brought it, as nearly as we -could guess, to the spot where the other one had been swept away from -us, and one of the party then getting into it with a paddle, we -committed it, pursuant to his desire, to the stream, hoping that it -would be carried down after the other, and that thus we should be able -to recover both it and the things which it contained. In a few seconds -the stream carried the canoe out of our sight, for the moon shone but -faintly through the clouds, and being all of us totally unacquainted -with the river, we could not but feel some concern for the personal -safety of our companion. Before many minutes, however, were elapsed, we -had the satisfaction of hearing his voice at a distance, and having made -the best of our way along the shore to the spot from whence the sound -proceeded, we had the satisfaction to find that he had been carried in -safety close beside the canoe which had been lost, we were not a little -pleased also at finding our portmanteaus at the bottom of the canoe, -though well soaked in water; but such of our clothes as we had taken off -preparatory to going into the water, together with several light -articles, were all lost. - -[Sidenote: SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS.] - -It froze so very hard now, that in a few minutes our portmanteaus, and -such of our garments as had been wetted, were covered with a coat of -ice, and our limbs were quite benumbed, in consequence of our having -waded so often through the river. Desirous, however, as we were to get -to a house, we determined, in the first instance, to dispose of our -baggage in a safe place, lest it might be pillaged. A deep hollow that -appeared under some fallen trees seemed well adapted for the purpose, -and having stowed it there, and covered it with leaves, we advanced -forward. There were no traces whatsoever of a path in the woods where we -landed, and for upwards of a mile we had to force our way through the -bushes along the banks of the river; but at the end of that distance, we -hit upon one, which in a short time brought us to a miserable little log -house. At this house no accommodation whatsoever was to be had, but we -were told, that if we followed the path through the woods for about a -mile farther, we should come to a waggon road, upon which we should find -another house, where probably we might gain admittance. We reached this -house according to the directions we had received; we readily gained -admittance into it, and the blaze of an immense wood fire, piled half -way up the chimney, soon made us amends for what we had suffered from -the inclemency of the weather. The coldness of the air, together with -the fatigue which we had gone through in the course of the day, had by -this time given a keen edge to our appetites; no sooner therefore had we -warmed ourselves than we began to make enquiries about what we could get -to satisfy the calls of hunger; but had we asked for a sheep or an ox -for supper at an inn in England, the man of the house could not, I -verily believe, have been more amazed than was our American landlord at -these enquiries: “The women were in bed”—“He knew not where to find the -keys”—“He did not believe there was any thing in the pantry”—“Provisions -were very scarce in the country”—“If he gave us any there would not be -enough for the family in the morning”—Such were his answers to us. -However we plied him so closely, and gave him such a pitiable -description of our sufferings, that at length he was moved; the keys -were found, the pantry opened, and to satisfy the hunger of five hungry -young men, two little flour cakes, scarcely as big as a man’s hand each, -and about a pint and a half of milk, were brought forth. He vowed he -could give us nothing more; his wife would never pardon him if he did -not leave enough for their breakfasts in the morning; obliged therefore -to remain satisfied, we eat our little pittance, and then laid ourselves -down to rest on our skins, which we had brought with us on our -shoulders. - -[Sidenote: SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS.] - -In the morning we found that the man had really made an accurate report -of the state of his pantry. There was barely enough in it for the -family, and unable to get a single morsel to eat, we set out for the -little house where we had first stopped the preceding night, which was -the only one within two or three miles, there hoping to find the -inhabitants better provided for: not a bit of bread however was to be -had here; but the woman of the house told us, that she had some Indian -corn meal, and that if we could wait for an hour or two she would bake a -loaf for us. This was most grateful intelligence: we only begged of her -to make it large enough, and then set off to search in the interim for -our canoes and baggage. At several other places, in going down the -Susquehannah, we afterwards found an equal scarcity of provisions with -what we did in this neighbourhood. One morning in particular, after -having proceeded for about four or five miles in our canoe, we stopped -to breakfast; but nothing eatable was there to be had at the first house -we went to, except a few potatoes that were roasting before the fire. -The people very cheerfully gave us two or three, and told us at the same -time, that if we went to some houses at the opposite side of the river -we should most probably find better fare: we did so; but here the -inhabitants were still more destitute. On asking them where we should be -likely to get any thing to eat, an old woman answered, that if we went -to a village about four miles lower down the river, we should find a -house, she believed, where “_they did keep victuals_,” an expression so -remarkable that I could not help noting it down immediately. We reached -this house, and finding it well stocked with provisions of every kind, -took care to provide ourselves, not only with what we wanted for -immediate use, but also with what we might want on a future occasion, in -case we came to any place equally destitute of provisions as those which -we had before stopped at; a precaution that was far from proving -unnecessary. - -But to return. We found our canoes and baggage just as we had left them, -and having embarked once more, we made the best of our way down to the -house where we had bespoke breakfast, which stood on the banks of the -river. The people here were extremely civil; they assisted us in making -fresh paddles in lieu of those which we had lost the night before; and -for the trifle which we gave them above what they asked us for our -breakfasts they were very thankful, a most unusual circumstance in the -United States. - -[Sidenote: SUSQUEHANNAH.] - -After breakfast we pursued our way for about seven miles down the river, -but in the course of this distance we were obliged to get into the water -more than a dozen different times, I believe, to drag the canoes over -the shoals; in short, by the time we arrived at a house in the -afternoon, we were so completely disgusted with our water conveyance, -that had we not been able to procure two men, as we did in the -neighbourhood, to conduct our canoes to the mouth of Tyoga River, where -there was reason to imagine that the water would be found deeper, we -should certainly have left them behind us. The men set out at an early -hour in the morning, and we proceeded some time afterwards on foot along -the banks, but so difficult was the navigation, that we reached Tyoga -Point or Lochartzburg, a small town built at the mouth of the river, -several hours before them. - -On arriving at this place, we heard to our disappointment, that the -Susquehannah, although generally at this season of the year navigable -for boats drawing four feet water, was now nearly as low as the Tyoga -River, so that in many places, particularly at the rapids, there was -scarcely sufficient water to float a canoe over the sharp rocks with -which the bed of the river abounds; in fine, we were informed that the -channel was now intricate and dangerous, and that no person unacquainted -with the river could attempt to proceed down it without great risk; we -found no difficulty, however, in hiring from amongst the watermen -accustomed to ply on the river, a man that was perfectly well acquainted -with it; and having exchanged our two canoes, pursuant to his advice, -for one of a very large size, capable of holding us all conveniently, we -renewed our voyage. - -[Sidenote: SUSQUEHANNAH.] - -From Lochartzburgh to Wilkes-barré, or Wyoming, situated on the -south-east side of the Susquehannah, the distance is about ninety miles, -and when the river is full, and the current of course strong, as is -usually the case in the fall and spring of the year, you may go down the -whole of this distance in one day; but owing to the lowness of the water -we were no less than four days performing the voyage, though we made the -utmost expedition possible. In many parts of the river, indeed, we found -the current very rapid; at the Falls of Wyalusing, for instance, we were -carried down three or four miles in about a quarter of an hour; but in -other places, where the river was deep, scarcely any current was -perceptible in it, and we were obliged to work our way with paddles. The -bed of the river abounds with rock and gravel, and the water is so -transparent, that in many parts, where it must have been at least twenty -feet deep, the smallest pebble was distinguishable at the bottom. The -width of the river varies from fifty to three hundred yards, and -scarcely any stream in America has a more irregular course; in some -places it runs in a direction diametrically opposite to what it does in -others. The country through which this (the eastern) branch of the -Susquehannah passes, is extremely uneven and rugged; indeed, from -Lochartzburgh till within a short distance of Wilkes-barré, it is -bounded the entire way by steep mountains either on the one side or the -other. The mountains are never to be met with at both sides of the same -part of the river, except it be at places where the river takes a very -sudden bend; but wherever you perceive a range of mountains on one side, -you are sure to find an extensive plain on the opposite one; scarcely in -any part do the mountains extend for more than one mile together on the -same side of the river, and in many instances, during the course of one -mile, you will perceive more than a dozen different changes of the -mountains from one side to the other. It may readily be imagined, from -this description of the eastern branch of the Susquehannah, that the -scenery along it must be very fine; and, indeed, I think there is no -river in America that abounds with such a variety and number of -picturesque views. At every bend the prospect varies, and there is -scarcely a spot between Lochartzburg and Wilkes-barré where the painter -would not find a subject well worthy of his pencil. The mountains, -covered with bold rocks and woods, afford the finest foreground -imaginable; the plains, adorned with cultivated fields and patches of -wood, and watered by the noble river, of which you catch a glimpse here -and there, fill up the middle part of the landscape; and the blue hills, -peeping up at a distance, terminate the view in the most pleasing -manner. - -The country bordering upon the Susquehannah abounds with deer, and as we -passed down we met with numberless parties of the country people engaged -in driving these animals. The deer, on being pursued in the neighbouring -country, immediately make for the river, where men being concealed in -bushes placed on the strand, at the part to which it is expected they -will come down, take the opportunity of shooting them as soon as they -enter the water. Should the deer not happen to come near these ambushes, -the hunters then follow them in canoes: it seldom happens that they -escape after having once taken to the water. - -Very fine fish are found in every part of the Susquehannah, and the -river is much frequented by wild fowl, particularly by the canvass back -duck. - -The whole way between Lochartzburg and Wilkes-barré are settlements on -each side of the river, at no great distance from each other; there are -also several small towns on the banks of the river. The principal one is -French Town, situated within a short distance of the Falls of Wyalusing, -on the western side of the river. This town was laid out at the expence -of several philanthropic persons in Pennsylvania, who entered into a -subscription for the purpose, as a place of retreat for the unfortunate -French emigrants who fled to America. The town contains about fifty log -houses; and for the use of the inhabitants a considerable track of land -has been purchased adjoining to it, which has been divided into farms. -The French settled here seem, however, to have no great inclination or -ability to cultivate the earth, and the greater part of them have let -their lands at a small yearly rent to Americans, and amuse themselves -with driving deer, fishing, and fowling; they live entirely to -themselves; they hate the Americans, and the Americans in the -neighbourhood hate, and accuse them of being an idle dissipated set. The -manners of the two people are so very different that it is impossible -they should ever agree. - -[Sidenote: WILKES-BARRÉ] - -Wilkes-barré, formerly Wyoming, is the chief town of Luzerne county. It -is situated on a plain, bounded on one side by the Susquehannah, and on -the other by a range of mountains, and contains about one hundred and -fifty wooden dwelling houses, a church, court house, and gaol. It was -here that the dreadful massacre was committed, during the American war, -by the Indians under the command of colonel Butler, which is recorded in -most of the histories of the war, and which will for ever remain a blot -on the English annals. Several of the houses in which the unfortunate -victims retired to defend themselves, on being refused all quarter, are -still standing, perforated in every part with balls; the remains of -others that were set on fire are also still to be seen, and the -inhabitants will on no account suffer them to be repaired. The Americans -are equally tenacious of the ruins in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia. - -It was our intention at first to have proceeded down the river from -hence as far as Sunburg, or Harrisburgh; but the weather being now so -cold as to render a water conveyance, especially a canoe, where you are -always obliged to sit very still, extremely disagreeable, we determined -to cross the Blue Mountains to Bethlehem in Pennsylvania, situated about -sixty-five miles to the south-east of Wilkes-barré; we accordingly hired -horses, as we had done on a former occasion, to carry our baggage, and -proceeded ourselves on foot. We set out in the afternoon, the day after -that on which we terminated our voyage, and before evening crossed the -ridge of mountains which bounds the plain of Wilkes-barré. These -mountains, which are extremely rugged and stony, abound with iron ore -and coal; for the manufacture of the former several forges have been -established, but no use is made of the coal, there being plenty of wood -as yet in the country, which is esteemed much more agreeable fuel. From -the top of them you have a very grand view of the plain below, on which -stands the town of Wilkes-barré, and of the river Susquehannah, which -may be traced above the town, winding amidst the hills for a great -number of miles. - -[Sidenote: WOODS.] - -The country beyond the mountains is extremely rough, and but very thinly -settled, of course still much wooded. The people, at the few houses -scattered through it, appeared to live much better than the inhabitants -of any other part of the States which I before passed through. At every -house where we stopped we found abundance of good bread, butter, tea, -coffee, chocolate, and venison; and indeed we fared sumptuously here, in -comparison to what we had done for many weeks preceding. - -The woods in many parts of this country consisted almost wholly of -hemlock trees, which are of the pine species, and grow only on poor -ground. Many of them were of an unusually large size, and their tops so -closely matted together, that after having entered into the depth of the -woods you could see the sky in but very few places. The brush wood under -these trees, different from what I ever saw elsewhere, consisted for the -most part of the oleander and of the kalmia laurel, whose deep green -served to render the gloom of the woods still more solemn; indeed they -seemed completely to answer the description given by the poets of the -sacred groves; and it were impossible to enter them without being struck -with awe. - -About twenty miles before you come to Bethlehem, in going thither from -Wilkes-barré, you cross the ridge of Blue Mountains at what is called -the Wind-Gap; how it received that name I never could learn. This gap is -nearly a mile wide, and it exhibits a tremendously wild and rugged -scene. The road does not run at the bottom of the gap, but along the -edge of the south mountain, about two thirds of the way up. Above you on -the right, nothing is to be seen but broken rocks and trees, and on the -left you look down a steep precipice. The rocks at the bottom of the -precipice have every appearance, it is said (for we did not descend into -it) of having been washed by water for ages; and from hence it has been -conjectured that this must have been the original channel of the River -Delaware, which now passes through the ridge, at a place about fifteen -miles to the north-west. Whether this were the case or not it is -impossible to determine at this day; but it is certain, from the -appearance of the country on each side of the Delaware, that a great -change has taken place in this quarter, in consequence of some vast -inundation. - -[Illustration: - - VIEW _of_ BETHLEHEM _a Moravian settlement_. - _I. Weld del. J. Dadley sculp^t._ - _Published Dec. 12 1798, by I. Stockdale, Picadilly._ -] - -On the Atlantic side of the mountains the country is much less rugged -than on the opposite one, and it is more cleared and much more thickly -settled: the inhabitants are for the most part of German extraction. - -[Sidenote: BETHLEHEM.] - -Bethlehem is the principal settlement, in North America, of the -Moravians, or United Brethren. It is most agreeably situated on a rising -ground, bounded on one side by the river Leheigh, which falls into the -Delaware, and on the other by a creek, which has a very rapid current, -and affords excellent seats for a great number of mills. The town is -regularly laid out, and contains about eighty strong built stone -dwelling houses and a large church. Three of the dwelling houses are -very spacious buildings, and are appropriated respectively to the -accommodation of the unmarried young men of the society, of the -unmarried females, and of the widows. In these houses different -manufactures are carried on, and the inmates of each are subject to a -discipline approaching somewhat to that of a monastic institution. They -eat together in a refectory; they sleep in dormitories; they attend -morning and evening prayers in the chapel of the house; they work for a -certain number of hours in the day; and they have stated intervals -allotted to them for recreation. They are not subjected, by the rules of -the society, to perpetual confinement; but they seldom, notwithstanding, -go beyond the bounds of their walks and gardens, except it be -occasionally to visit their friends in the town. - -[Sidenote: MORAVIANS.] - -The Moravians, though they do not enjoin celibacy, yet think it highly -meritorious, and the young persons of different sexes have but very -little intercourse with each other; they never enter each other’s -houses, and at church they are obliged to sit separate; it is only in -consequence of his having seen her at a distance, perhaps, that a -batchelor is induced to propose for a young woman in marriage, and he is -not permitted to offer his proposals in person to the object of his -choice, but merely through the medium of the superintendant of the -female house. If from the report of the elders and wardens of the -society it appears to the superintendant that he is able to maintain a -wife, she then acquaints her protegée with the offer, and should she -consent, they are married immediately, but if she do not, the -superintendant selects another female from the house, whom she imagines -would be suitable to the young man, and on his approval of her they are -as quickly married. Hasty as these marriages are, they are never known -to be attended with unhappiness; for being taught from their earliest -infancy to keep those passions under controul, which occasion so much -mischief amongst the mass of mankind; being inured to regular habits of -industry, and to a quiet sober life; and being in their peaceable and -retired settlements out of the reach of those temptations which persons -are exposed to who launch forth into the busy world, and who mingle with -the multitude, the parties meet with nought through life to interrupt -their domestic repose. - -Attached to the young men’s and to the young women’s houses there are -boarding schools for boys and girls, under the direction of proper -teachers, which are also inspected by the elders and wardens of the -society. These schools are in great repute, and not only the children of -Moravians are sent to them, but also those of many genteel persons of a -different persuasion, resident in Philadelphia, New York, and other -towns in the neighbouring States. The boys are instructed in the Latin, -German, French, and English languages; arithmetic, music, drawing, &c.: -the girls are likewise instructed in these different languages and -sciences, and, in short, in every thing that is usually taught at a -female boarding school, except dancing. When of a sufficient age to -provide for themselves, the young women of the society are admitted into -the house destined for their accommodation, where embroidery, fine -needle-work, carding, spinning, knitting, &c. &c. and other works -suitable to females, are carried on. A separate room is allotted for -every different business, and a female, somewhat older than the rest, -presides in it, to inspect the work, and preserve regularity. Persons -are appointed to dispose of the several articles manufactured in the -house, and the money which they produce is distributed amongst the -individuals engaged in manufacturing them, who, after paying a certain -sum towards the maintenance of the house, and a certain sum besides into -the public fund of the society, are allowed to keep the remainder for -themselves. - -After the boys have finished their school education, they are -apprenticed to the business which accords most with their inclination. -Should this be a business or trade that is carried on in the young men’s -house, they at once go there to learn it, but if at the house of an -individual in the town, they only board and lodge at the young men’s -house. If they are inclined to agricultural pursuits, they are then put -under the care of one of the farmers of the society. The young men -subscribe to the support of their house, and to the public fund, just as -the young women do; the widows do the same; and every individual in the -town likewise contributes a small sum weekly to the general fund of the -society. - -[Sidenote: MORAVIANS.] - -Situated upon the creek, which skirts the town, there is a flour mill, a -saw mill, an oil mill, a fulling mill, a mill for grinding bark and dye -stuff, a tan yard, a currier’s yard; and on the Leheigh River an -extensive brewery, at which very good malt liquor is manufactured. These -mills, &c. belong to the society at large, and the profits arising from -them, the persons severally employed in conducting them being first -handsomely rewarded for their services, are paid into the public fund. -The lands for some miles round the town, which are highly improved, -likewise belong to the society, as does also the tavern, and the profits -arising from them are disposed of in the same manner as those arising -from the mills, the persons employed in managing the farms, and -attending to the tavern, being nothing more than stewards or agents of -the society. The fund thus raised is employed in relieving the -distressed brethren of the society in other parts of the world, in -forming new settlements, and in defraying the expence of the missions -for the purpose of propagating the gospel amongst the heathens. - -The tavern at Bethlehem is very commodious, and it is the neatest and -best conducted one, without exception, that I ever met with in any part -of America. Having communicated to the landlord, on arriving at it, our -wish to see the town and public buildings, he immediately dispatched a -messenger for one of the elders, and in less than a quarter of an hour, -brother Thomas, a lively fresh coloured little man, of about fifty years -of age, entered the room: he was dressed in a plain blue coat and -waistcoat, brown corderoy breeches, and a large round hat; there was -goodness and innocence in his looks, and his manners were so open and -unconstrained, that it was impossible not to become familiar with him at -once. When we were ready to sally forth, he placed himself between two -of us, and leaning on our arms, and chatting without ceremony, he -conducted us first to the young women’s house. Here we were shewn into a -neat parlour, whilst brother Thomas went to ask permission for us to see -the house. In a few minutes the superintendant herself came; brother -Thomas introduced her to us, and accompanied by them both we visited the -different apartments. - -[Sidenote: MORAVIANS.] - -The house is extensive, and the passages and stair-cases are commodious -and airy, but the work rooms are small, and to such a pitch were they -heated by stoves, that on entering into them at first we could scarcely -breathe. The stoves, which they use, are built in the German style. The -fire is inclosed in a large box or case formed of glazed tiles, and the -warm air is thence conducted, through flues, into similar large cases -placed in different parts of the room, by which means every part is -rendered equally warm. About a dozen females or more, nearly of the same -age, were seated at work in each apartment. The entrance of strangers -did not interrupt them in the least; they went on with their work, and -except the inspectress, who never failed politely to rise and speak to -us, they did not even seem to take any notice of our being in the room. - -The dress of the sisterhood, though not quite uniform, is very nearly -so. They wear plain calico, linen, or stuff gowns, with aprons, and -close tight linen caps, made with a peak in front, and tied under the -chin with a piece of riband. Pink ribands are said to be worn as a badge -by those who are inclined to marry; however, I observed that all the -unmarried women wore them, not excepting those whose age and features -seemed to have excluded them from every chance of becoming the votaries -of Hymen. - -The dormitory of the female house is a very spacious apartment in the -upper story, which is aired by a large ventilator in the ceiling. It -contains about fifty boarded beds without testers, each calculated to -hold one person. They sleep here during winter time in the German style, -between two feather beds, to which the sheets and blankets are stitched -fast; in summer time the heat is too great here to admit even of a -single blanket. - -After having gone through the different apartments of the female house, -we were conducted by the superintendant into a sort of shop, where -different little articles of fancy work, manufactured by the sisterhood, -are laid out to the best advantage. It is always expected that strangers -visiting the house will lay out some trifling sum here; and this is the -only reward which any member of the society expects for the trouble of -conducting a stranger throughout every part of the town. - -The house of the sisterhood exhibits a picture of the utmost neatness -and regularity, as do likewise the young men’s and the widows houses; -and indeed the same may be said of every private house throughout the -town. The mills, brewery, &c. which are built on the most approved -plans, are also kept in the very neatest order. - -Brother Thomas, after having shewn us the different public buildings and -works, next introduced us into the houses of several of the married men, -that were most distinguished for their ingenuity, and in some of them, -particularly at the house of a cabinet maker, we were entertained with -very curious pieces of workmanship. This cabinet maker brought us a book -of Indian ink and tinted drawings, his own performances, which would -have been a credit to a person in his situation in any part of the -world. - -[Sidenote: MORAVIANS.] - -The manufactures in general carried on at Bethlehem consist of woollen -and linen cloths, hats, cotton and worsted caps and stockings, gloves, -shoes, carpenters, cabinet makers, and turners work, clocks, and a few -ether articles of hardware, &c. &c. - -The church is a plain building of stone, adorned with pictures from -sacred history. It is furnished with a tolerable organ, as likewise are -the chapels of the young men’s and young women’s houses; they accompany -their hymns, besides, with violoncellos, violins, flutes, &c. The whole -society attends the church on a Sunday, and when any one of the society -dies, all the remaining members attend his funeral, which is conducted -with great solemnity, though with little pomp: they never go into -mourning for their departed friends. - -Every house in the town is supplied with an abundance of excellent water -from a spring, which is forced through pipes by means of an hydraulic -machine worked by water, and which is situated on the banks of the -creek. Some of the houses are supplied with water in every room. The -machine is very simple, and would easily raise the water of the spring, -if necessary, several hundred feet. - -The spring from whence the houses are supplied with water stands nearly -in the center of the town, and over it, a large stone house with very -thick walls, is erected. Houses like this are very common in America; -they are called spring houses and are built for the purpose of -preserving meat, milk, butter, &c. during the heats of summer. This -spring house in Bethlehem is common to the whole town; a shelf or board -in it is allotted to each family, and though there is no watch placed -over it, and the door be only secured by a latch, yet every person is -certain of finding, when he comes for it, his plate of butter or bowl of -milk, &c. exactly in the same state as when he put it in. - -[Sidenote: MORAVIANS.] - -The Moravians study to render their conduct strictly conformable to the -principles of the Christian religion; but very different notions, -notwithstanding, are, and, no doubt, will be entertained respecting some -of their tenets. Every unprejudiced person, however, that has visited -their settlements must acknowledge, that their moral conduct is truly -excellent, and is such as would, if generally adopted, make men happy in -the extreme. They live together like members of one large family; the -most perfect harmony subsists between them, and they seem to have but -one with at heart, the propagation of the gospel, and the good of -mankind. They are in general of a grave turn of mind; but nothing of -that stiffness, or of that affected singularity, or pride, as I will -call it, prevalent amongst the Quakers, is observable in their manners. -Wherever their society has extended itself in America, the most happy -consequences have resulted from it; good order and regularity have -become conspicuous in the behaviour of the people of the neighbourhood, -and arts and manufactures have been introduced into the country. - -As the whole of the plot of ground, on which Bethlehem stands; belongs -to the society, as well as the lands for a considerable way round the -town, the Moravians here are not liable to be troubled by intruders, but -any person that will conform to their line of conduct will be received -into their society with readiness and cordiality. They appeared to take -the greatest delight in shewing us their town, and every thing belonging -to it, and at parting lamented much that we could not stay longer with -them, to see still more of the manners and habits of the society. - -They do not seem desirous of adding to the number of houses in -Bethlehem; but whenever there is an increase of people, they send them -off to another part of the country, there to form a new settlement. -Since Bethlehem was founded, they have established two other towns in -Pennsylvania, Nazareth and Letitz. The former of these stands at the -distance of about ten miles from Bethlehem, and in coming down from the -Blue Mountains you pass through it; it is about half the size of -Bethlehem, and built much on the same plan. Letitz is situated at a -distance of about ten miles from Lancaster. - -The country for many miles round Bethlehem is most pleasingly -diversified with rising grounds; the soil is rich, and better cultivated -than any part of America I before saw. Until within a few years past -this neighbourhood has been distinguished for the salubrity of its -climate, but fevers, chiefly bilious and intermittent, have increased to -a very great degree of late, and, indeed, not only here, but in many -other parts of Pennsylvania, which have been long settled. During the -last autumn, more people suffered from sickness in the well cultivated -parts of the country than had ever been remembered. Various reasons have -been assigned for this increase of fevers in Pennsylvania, but it -appears most probably to be owing to the unequal quantities of rain that -have fallen of late years, and to the unprecedented mildness of the -winters. - -Bethlehem is visited during summer time by great numbers of people from -the neighbouring large towns, who are led thither by curiosity or -pleasure; and regularly, twice a week throughout the year, a public -stage waggon runs between it and Philadelphia. We engaged this carriage -to ourselves, and early on the second day from that on which we quitted -Bethlehem, reached the capital, after an absence of, somewhat more than, -five months. - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - _LETTER _ XXXVIII. - -_Leave Philadelphia.—Arrive at New York.—Visit Long Island.—Dreadful - havoc by the Yellow Fever.—Dutch Inhabitants suspicious of - Strangers.—Excellent Farmers.—Number of Inhabitants.—Culture of - Corn.—Immense Quantities of Grouse and Deer.—Laws to protect - them.—Increase of the same.—Decrease of Beavers.—New York agreeable to - Strangers.—Conclusion._ - - - MY DEAR SIR, New York, January 1797. - -[Sidenote: LEAVE PHILADELPHIA.] - - -AFTER having remained a few days at Philadelphia, in order to arrange -some matters preparatory to my taking a final leave of that city, I set -out once more for New York. The month of December had now arrived; -considerable quantities of snow had fallen; and the keen winds from the -north-west had already spread a thick crust of ice over the Delaware, -whose majestic stream is always the last in this part of the country to -feel the chilly touch of the hand of winter. The ice however, was not -yet strong enough to sustain the weight of a stage carriage, neither was -it very readily to be broken; so that when we reached the falls of the -river, where it is usual to cross in going from Philadelphia to New -York, we had to remain for upwards of two hours, shivering before the -bitter blasts, until a passage was opened for the boat, which was to -convey us and our vehicle to the opposite side. The crossing of the -Delaware at this place with a wheel carriage, even when the river is -frozen over and the ice sufficiently thick to bear, is generally a -matter of considerable inconvenience and trouble to travellers, owing to -the large irregular masses of ice formed there, when the frost first -sets in, by the impetuosity of the current, which breaking away the -slender flakes of ice from the edges of the banks, gradually drifts them -up in layers over each other; it is only at this rugged part, that a -wheel carriage can safely pass down the banks of the river. - -When the ground is covered with snow, a sleigh or sledge is by far the -most commodious sort of carriage to travel in, as neither it nor the -passengers it contains are liable to receive any injury whatsoever from -an overturn, and as, added to this, you may proceed much faster and -easier in it than in a carriage on wheels; having said then that there -was snow on the ground, it will perhaps be a subject of wonder to you, -that we had not one of these safe and agreeable carriages to take us to -New York; if so, I must inform you, that no experienced traveller in the -middle states sets out on a long journey in a sleigh at the commencement -of winter, as unexpected thaws at this period now take place very -commonly, and so rapid are they, that in the course of one morning the -snow sometimes entirely disappears; a serious object of consideration in -this country, where, if you happen to be left in the lurch with your -sleigh, other carriages are not to be had at a moment’s warning. In the -present instance, notwithstanding the intense severity of the cold, and -the appearances there were of its long continuance, yet I had not been -eight and forty hours at New York when every vestige of frost was gone, -and the air became as mild as in the month of September. - -[Sidenote: LONG ISLAND.] - -This sudden change in the weather afforded me an opportunity of seeing, -to much greater advantage than might have been expected at this season -of the year, parts of New York and Long Islands, which the shortness of -my stay in this neighbourhood had not permitted me to visit in the -summer. After leaving the immediate vicinage of the city, which stands -at the southern extremity of the former of these two islands, but little -is to be met with that deserves attention; the soil, indeed, is fertile, -and the face of the country is not unpleasingly diversified with rising -grounds; but there is nothing grand in any of the views which it -affords, nor did I observe one of the numerous seats, with which it is -overspread, that was distinguished either for its elegant neatness or -the delightfulness of its situation; none of them will bear any -comparison with the charming little villas which adorn the banks of the -Schuylkill near Philadelphia. - -On Long Island much more will be found, in a picturesque point of view, -to interest the traveller. On the western side, in particular, bordering -upon the Narrows, or that contracted channel between the islands, -through which vessels pass in sailing to New York from the Atlantic, the -country is really romantic. The ground here is very much broken, and -numberless large masses of wood still remain standing, through the -vistas in which you occasionally catch the most delightful prospects of -the distant hills on Staten Island and the New Jersey shore, and of the -water, which is constantly enlivened by vessels sailing to and fro. - -[Sidenote: LONG ISLAND.] - -To an inhabitant of one of the large towns on the coast of America, a -country house is not merely desirable as a place of retirement from -noise and bustle, where the owner may indulge his fancy in the -contemplation of rural scenes, at a season when nature is attired in her -most pleasing garb, but also as a safe retreat from the dreadful -maladies which of late years have never failed to rage with more or less -virulence in these places during certain months. When at Philadelphia -the yellow fever committed such dreadful havoc, sparing neither the rich -nor the poor, the young nor the aged, who had the confidence to remain -in the city, or were unable to quit it, scarcely a single instance -occurred of any one of those falling a victim to its baneful influence, -who lived but one mile removed from town, where was a free circulation -of air, and who at the same time studiously avoided all communication -with the sick, or with those who had visited them; every person -therefore at Philadelphia, New York, Baltimore, &c. who is sufficiently -wealthy to afford it, has his country habitation in the neighbourhood of -these respective places, to which he may retire in the hot unhealthy -season of the year; but this delightful part of Long Island, of which I -have been speaking, though it affords such a number of charming -situations for little villas, is unfortunately too far removed from New -York to be a convenient place of retreat to men so deeply engaged in -commercial pursuits as are the greater number of the inhabitants of that -city, and it remains almost destitute of houses; whilst another part of -the island, more conveniently situated, is crowded with them, although -the face of the country is here flat and sandy, devoid of trees, and -wholly uninteresting. - -[Sidenote: LONG ISLAND.] - -The permanent residents on Long Island are chiefly of Dutch extraction, -and they seem to have inherited all the coldness, reserve, and -covetousness of their ancestors. It is a common saying in New York, that -a Long Island man will conceal himself in his house on the approach of a -stranger; and really the numberless instances of shyness I met with in -the inhabitants seemed to argue, that there was some truth in the -remark. If you do but ask any simple question relative to the -neighbouring country, they will eye you with suspicion, and evidently -drive to disengage themselves from you; widely different from the -Anglo-Americans, whose inquisitiveness in similar circumstances would -lead them to a thousand impertinent and troublesome enquiries, in order -to discover what your business was in that place, and how they could -possibly take any advantage of it. These Dutchmen are in general very -excellent farmers; and several of them have very extensive tracts of -land under cultivation, for the produce of which there is a convenient -and ready market at New York. Amongst them are to be found many very -wealthy men; but except a few individuals, they live in a mean, -penurious, and most uncomfortable manner. The population of the island -is estimated at about thirty-seven thousand souls, of which number near -five thousand are slaves. It is the western part of the island which is -the best inhabited; a circumstance to be ascribed, not so much to the -fertility of the soil as its contiguity to the city of New York. Here -are several considerable towns, as, Flatbush, Jamaica, Brooklynn, -Flushing, Utrecht; the three first-mentioned of which contain each -upwards of one hundred houses. Brooklynn, the largest of them, is -situated just opposite to New York, on the bank of the East River, and -forms an agreeable object from the city. - -The soil of Long Island is well adapted to the culture of small grain -and Indian corn; and the northern part, which is hilly, is said to be -peculiarly favourable to the production of fruit. The celebrated Newtown -pippin, though now to be met with in almost every part of the state of -New York, and good in its kind, is yet supposed by many persons to -attain a higher flavour here than in any other part of America. - -Of the peculiar soil of the plains that are situated towards the center -of this island, I have before had occasion to speak, when describing -those in the western parts of the state of New York. One plain here, -somewhat different from the rest, is profusely covered with stunted oaks -and pines; but no grain will grow upon it, though it has been cleared, -and experiments have been made for that purpose in many different -places. This one goes under the appellation of Brushy Plain. Immense -quantities of grouse and deer are found amidst the brushwood, with which -it is covered, and which is so well calculated to afford shelter to -these animals. Laws have been passed, not long since, to prevent the -wanton destruction of the deer; in consequence of which they are -beginning to increase most rapidly, notwithstanding such great numbers -are annually killed, as well for the New York market, as for the support -of the inhabitants of the island; indeed it is found that they are now -increasing in most of the settled parts of the states of New York, where -there is sufficient wood to harbour them; whereas in the Indian -territories, the deer, as well as most other wild animals, are becoming -scarcer every year, notwithstanding that the number of Indian hunters is -also decreasing; but these people pursue the same destructive system of -hunting, formerly practised on Long Island, killing every animal they -meet, whether young or full grown. Notwithstanding the strong -injunctions laid upon them by the Canadian traders, to spare some few -beavers at each dam, in order to perpetuate the breed, they still -continue to kill these animals wherever they find them, so that they are -now entirely banished from places which used to abound with, and which -are still in a state to harbour them, being far removed from the -cultivated parts of the country. An annual deficiency of fifteen -thousand has been observed in the number of beaver skins brought down to -Montreal, for the last few years. - -[Sidenote: RETURN TO NEW YORK.] - -From Long Island I returned to this city; which the hospitality and -friendly civilities I have experienced, in common with other strangers, -from its inhabitants, induce me to rank as the most agreeable place I -have visited in the United States: nor am I singular in this opinion, -there being scarcely any traveller I have conversed with, but what gives -it the same preference. Whilst I continue in America it shall be my -place of residence: but my thoughts are solely bent upon returning to my -native land, now dearer to me than ever; and provided that the ice, -which threatens at present to block up the harbour, does not cut off our -communication with the Atlantic, I shall speedily take my departure from -this Continent, well pleased at having seen as much of it as I have -done; but I shall leave it without a sigh, and without entertaining the -slightest wish to revisit it. - - - - - FINIS. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ● Transcriber’s Notes: - ○ There is a pagination error in the printed book——page 340 is - followed by page 441. There is no discontinuity in the text. - ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. - ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected. - ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only - when a predominant form was found in this book. - ○ Text that: - was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_);. - ○ The use of a caret (^) before a letter, or letters, shows that the - following letter or letters was intended to be a superscript, as - in S^t Bartholomew or 10^{th} Century. - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS THROUGH THE STATES OF NORTH -AMERICA, AND THE PROVINCES OF UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, DURING THE YEARS -1795, 1796, AND 1797 [VOL 2 OF 2] *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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