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margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c026 { text-align: right; } - .c027 { margin-top: 1em; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c028 { margin-top: .5em; } - body {width:80%; margin:auto; } - .tnbox {background-color:#E3E4FA;border:1px solid silver;padding: 0.5em; - margin:2em 10% 0 10%; } - .box1 {border-style: solid; border-width:normal; padding: 4em; - margin: 0 25% 0 25% } - .fn {font-size: 0.85em; line-height: 125%; } - h1 {font-size: 2em; text-align: left; } - h2 {font-size: 1.50em; } - .std-table {font-size: 0.85em; line-height: 1.5em; color: black; } - </style> - </head> - <body> - -<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of An Englishwoman in Angora, by Grace Mary Ellison</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: An Englishwoman in Angora</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0;'>With illus., reproduced from the author's own sketches and photographs, and with a cartoon by L. Raven Hill</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Grace Mary Ellison</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 3, 2021 [eBook #65749]</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Turgut Dincer,, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</div> - -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ENGLISHWOMAN IN ANGORA ***</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> -<div> - <h1 class='c001'>AN ENGLISHWOMAN IN ANGORA</h1> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c002' /> -</div> -<div id='frontis' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/frontis.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>MISS GRACE ELLISON.<br />The first British woman to visit Angora since the beginning of the Nationalist Movement. She has always stood for Anglo-Turkish friendship.<br /><i>Frontispiece</i></p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><i><span class='c004'>AN ENGLISHWOMAN</span></i></div> - <div><i><span class='c004'>IN ANGORA :: ::</span> <span class='c005'>By</span></i></div> - <div><i><span class='c005'>GRACE ELLISON :: :: ::</span></i></div> - <div>════════════════════════════════════════</div> - <div class='c006'><i>With 34 illustrations, reproduced from the Author’s</i></div> - <div><i>own sketches and photographs, and with a cartoon by</i></div> - <div><i>L. Raven Hill</i></div> - <div class='c006'><span class='c007'><em class='gesperrt'><i>LONDON: HUTCHINSON & CO.</i></em></span></div> - <div><span class='c007'><em class='gesperrt'><i>PATERNOSTER ROW</i></em></span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='c008'>TO</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='c005'>MY DEAR MOTHER</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='c007'>AND TO MY LATE FATHER,</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='c005'>CAPT. JOHN ELLISON,</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='c007'>IN LOVING MEMORY OF HIS BEAUTIFUL LIFE:</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='c007'>HIS EVER COURAGEOUS DEFENCE OF JUSTICE,</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='c007'>HONOUR, AND TRUTH.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c002' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_ix'>ix</span> - <h2 class='c009'>FOREWORD</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>AN ENGLISHWOMAN IN ANGORA</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>At</span> the time of writing I am the only Englishwoman who -has been in Angora since the Nationalist movement -began.</p> -<p class='c012'>Others, moved by curiosity, have sought permission -to visit the country under its new <i>régime</i>, but -Nationalist Turkey has bidden them wait—until she -is sure that her guests will write, or speak, the <i>truth</i> -about what they may see, and can be trusted to -forget the prejudices with which they would almost -certainly arrive.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For myself, I have three times been welcomed to -Turkey with open arms <i>on account</i> of my nationality. -On this occasion I was still welcome, but <i>in spite of</i> -my nationality—an ugly truth that my mind almost -refuses to accept.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To compare impressions from these visits one must -first ask: “How could such a change of attitude come -to pass?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Formerly Great Britain was <i>the</i> country of all -countries that “counted” in Turkey. To be a -“gentleman”—(they used the English word)—was -the Turks’ highest ambition. British stuffs were -chosen in preference to French, <i>not</i> because they were -finer or of greater value, but simply because they were -<i>British</i>. Our ideals, our policy, and, I must add, -our governesses, were almost regarded as sacred in -Turkish eyes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>And now I am advised, for greater safety, to travel -as an American! God forbid! I stand by the old -flag.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I would smile, could the tears be hidden, when I -<span class='pageno' id='Page_x'>x</span>recall the police officer who so solemnly enquired if -<i>I was sure</i> I was not an American.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Perfectly sure,” I replied.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“How then,” said he, “has that impossibility—an -Englishwoman in Angora—become possible?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Your Government,” I answered, “has made it -possible. As you have no one else here from my -country, I have given myself this mission.... An -old friend of the Turks, a woman who loves her own -country! Can she not do <i>something</i> for that peace -between us, which is a supreme necessity to both? -That is why I am here.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I do not forget that Turks were our “enemies” -in the war. But they came back, beaten to the dust—and -penitent. Then was the moment for us to have -made our own terms. In that mood Turkey would -have accepted—anything, but the <i>one thing</i> we imposed -on her—the Greeks at Smyrna! That policy -of sheer folly has transformed the veneration of her -people into fear and distrust, if not hate.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Unjustly and unreasonably as we have behaved -towards our old ally, we were not, indeed, alone in -this mischievous exalting of Greek aggressions. Dare -we not now own our mistake? We are great enough, -and strong enough, to be generous, to mend our ways!</p> - -<p class='c012'>To-day, surely, it is the duty of English patriots -to pour oil on the troubled waters, to explain to Turkey -what <i>can</i> be explained, and to paint our countrymen, -at least, less “black” than they have been made to -seem by our rivals’ pen!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Lausanne Palace Hotel,</p> -<p class='c014'>Lausanne,</p> -<p class='c015'><i>January, 1923</i>.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_xi'>xi</span> - <h2 class='c009'>CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>FOREWORD</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='std-table'> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'> </td> - <td class='c017'><span class='xsmall'>PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>An Englishwoman in Angora</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_ix'>ix</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>List of Illustrations</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#Page_xv'>xv</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER I</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>On Board the <i>Pierre Loti</i>—Turkey’s Debt to Loti’s Magic Pen</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch01'>17</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER II</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Turkey and Tolerance—A Friendship Wasted</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch02'>22</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER III</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Malta: the Name I was to Hear Throughout Anatolia</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch03'>29</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER IV</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Athens—“We Have Loved Helen; Must We Divorce Her?”</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch04'>36</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER V</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Smyrna: a Picture of Desolation</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch05'>43</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER VI</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>British Chivalry!—Brave Women a Nuisance!</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch06'>54</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER VII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Smyrna—God’s Work—The Exquisite Sunset—Man’s Work—War</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch07'>60</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER VIII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Emotions and Impressions—“On the Way”—Nowhere to House the Poor People</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch08'>71</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER IX</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>More Impressions-“Sitting Amidst an Army of Supposed Savage Fanatics, Debating the Greatness of God”</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch09'>79</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER X</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Journey on Foot—A Country Made by God, untouched by Man</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch10'>85</a></td> - </tr> -</table> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_xii'>xii</span> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XI</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Public Meeting at Ouchak—Hospitality—A Sacred Rite</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch11'>94</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Luggage Train—The Worst Stage of My Whole Journey</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch12'>104</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XIII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Third-Class Compartment—A Frenchman Amongst the Ruins</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch13'>114</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XIV</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>In the “Train de Luxe”—The Supreme Good Fellowship of English Laughter—Journeying Towards the Cradle of New Turkey</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch14'>122</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XV</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Angora I.—Entering a “Brotherhood”—An Atmosphere of Camaraderie</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch15'>132</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XVI</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Angora II.—At the Home of My Kind and Courteous Host</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch16'>141</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XVII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Angora III.—The Marvellous Atmosphere of a Great Birth</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch17'>147</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XVIII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Ghazi Mustapha Kemal Pasha—The Greatest Man in Turkey To-day</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch18'>159</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XIX</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>An Interview with the Ghazi Mustapha Kemal Pasha</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch19'>174</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XX</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Mustapha Kemal Pasha—The Man Who is Master of His Fate</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch20'>179</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXI</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Turkish Cabinet—The Three Best-Known Ministers—A Cabinet of Young Men</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch21'>192</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Turkish Cabinet—The Less-known Ministers of the Sovereign State</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch22'>198</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXIII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Foreign Colony in Angora—A Group of Foreign Personalities</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch23'>202</a></td> - </tr> -</table> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_xiii'>xiii</span> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXIV</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Halidé Edib Hanoum, Author and Patriot—A Woman Dowered with the All-Conquering Gifts of the Truly Brave</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch24'>205</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXV</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Hospitals—Schools—Education and the Nationalist Writers—The Days Pass, but There is Still Much to Be Done and Seen</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch25'>215</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXVI</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Last Days in Angora: Excursions, Conversations, Picnics—HAÏDAR Bey’s Party</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch26'>226</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXVII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Rome, the Eternal City—A Visit to the Catholics in Angora</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch27'>239</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXVIII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Three Diplomats at Rome—The Guardianship of the Holy Tomb</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch28'>249</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXIX</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'><i>En Route</i> for Constantinople—A Night at Bilidjik Under the Frost-Laden Skies</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch29'>254</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXX</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>From Bilidjik to Broussa by Yaili—After the day’s Roughening Experiences one can Sleep whatever the Accommodation</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch30'>259</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXXI</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Few Days in Broussa—The True Islam Atmosphere</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch31'>273</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXXII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Constantinople No Longer the Capital—The Heart and Spirit of Turkey are in Angora</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch32'>285</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXXIII</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Lausanne Palace Hotel—The Home of Turkey, France, and Japan—“Every Possible Phase of Complete Internationalism”</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch33'>298</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXXIV</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Turkey and the League of Nations—The Parliament of Nations Must Be Truly Impartial and International</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch34'>313</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>CHAPTER XXXV</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Future—Above All, a Lasting Peace</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#ch35'>318</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Index</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#idx'>321</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_xv'>xv</span> - <h2 id='ills' class='c009'>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -</div> -<div class='std-table'> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='86%' /> -<col width='13%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Miss Grace Ellison</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#frontis'><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Burnt Quarter in the French Part of Smyrna near the Quay</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i240'>48</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Lord Curzon: “Turkey for the Turks, indeed!”</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#tn01'>64</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>In an Ox Wagon</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i089'>89</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>From a Turk’s Back</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i104'>104</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>H.M. The Kaliph of Islam</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i112'>112</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Battle Royal with my Tangled, Dusty Hair</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i122'>122</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Bottle of Evian—Under the Table</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i123'>123</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>General Moueddine Pasha, Military Instructor of Mustapha Kemal Pasha</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i128'>128</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Market-place at Angora</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i136'>136</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>“The carriages swing from angle to angle”</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i137'>137</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Grand National Assembly at Angora</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i144'>144</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>“There is so much to sketch from our front door”</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i145'>145</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Ghazi Mustapha Kemal Pasha, President of the Grand National Assembly, Angora</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i160'>160</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>On the wall of Mustapha Kemal Pasha’s study the Sultan Osman looks down on Mustapha Kemal Pasha</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i164'>164</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Ante-room at Tchan-Kaya</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i165'>165</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Mustapha Kemal Pasha’s Sitting-room</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i168'>168</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Mustapha Kemal Pasha Walking in the Grounds of Tchan-Kaya</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i171'>171</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>General Ismet Pasha, Minister for Foreign Affairs</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i176'>176</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Rauf Bey, Prime Minister</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i192'>192</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Halidé Hanoum, the well-known writer, patriot, and feminist leader</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i208a'>208</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Dr. Adnan Bey, High Commissioner for Constantinople</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i208b'>208</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Agha Aglou Ahmed Bey, Director of the Angora Press</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i224'>224</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>A Luncheon Party at the Ottoman Bank, Angora</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i240a'>240</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Yaili with Drawn Curtains</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i255'>255</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Broussa</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i208'>256</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>“He has the right to say, ‘Look at me’”</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i261'>261</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>The Tomb of the Sultan Osman at Broussa</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i272'>272</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>General Refet Pasha and Colonel Mougin in Constantinople</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i288'>288</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c016'>Lausanne Palace Hotel</td> - <td class='c017'><a href='#i304'>304</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span><span class='xxlarge'>An Englishwoman in Angora</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 id='ch01' class='c009'>CHAPTER I</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>ON BOARD THE “PIERRE LOTI”—TURKEY’S DEBT TO LOTI’S MAGIC PEN</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Over</span> a sea as smooth as ice, the sun shining brightly -most of the way, the Messageries Maritimes steamer -<i>Pierre Loti</i> is carrying us to Smyrna. Ten years ago, -to a beaten Turkey (unable, it was supposed, to face -an enemy for years to come), I had taken the same trip. -And now, despite the prophets, I am returning to a -victorious people; doubly victorious, since all the -odds were against them.</p> -<p class='c012'>“That is the kind of story I love,” I remarked to -the sympathetic captain and his daughter, with whom I -generally lunched as guest in their own cabin. They, -indeed, were particularly interested in my adventure, -for they knew the Near East well, and this was to be -their last visit. Because he had just reached the age -limit of those who ‘go down to the sea in ships,’ though -it was only when you caught the word ‘papa’ upon -his daughter’s lips that anyone would suspect the fact.</p> - -<p class='c012'>So they are blessed who marry young!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It seems strange,” I told him one morning, “to -be here—on board the <i>Pierre Loti</i>, and surely a presage -of good luck, since his books have done so much to -increase and widen my inborn sympathies with the -East.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Still more strange it proved; since the captain -himself had named the ship for his admiration of the -great French writer and in memory of personal friendship -between them. A rare literary association for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>a steamer once in the service of the Czars. Wherefore, -also, I found the master’s works in the ship’s -library, and could renew acquaintance with many an -old favourite: “Ramuntcho,” “Matelot,” “Ispahan,” -“Les Pêcheurs d’Islande” and the “Désenchantées.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The captain told me of his visit to Rochefort, and -<i>I</i> told <i>him</i> how Antoine went to the same house for -final instructions upon the staging of “Ramuntcho,” -which, however, did not prove a success. How, indeed, -could anyone think of dramatising Pierre Loti, whether -in prose or verse? He gives us neither psychology -nor dramatic incident. I can only suppose that -Antoine permitted them to be produced—to show once -for all that the thing could not be done; a hard lesson -for the master!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Among Loti’s collection of priceless treasures, -rifled from every corner of the East, Antoine sought in -vain for somewhere to place his hat! Finally, he -hooked it on to an Eastern idol, and their talk began. -In a few moments, however, there was a pause, for -the astonished dramatist caught sight of the offending -headgear suspended, as he supposed, in mid-air. -However, a closer look revealed that it was resting -upon a thin stream of water. The Eastern idol was a -fountain!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The captain expressed his surprise that I should not -only be so familiar with Loti’s work, but that I could -really know anything intimately of his private life, -“seeing how the Frenchman disliked my own country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“My dear sir,” I replied, “if we are to find our -friends to-day only among those who love England, -we should be limited indeed. You and your charming -daughter, <i>par exemple</i>, are you precisely admirers of -the British Government?...</p> - -<p class='c012'>“To me, Art is first, and the rest—nowhere! I -care not whether the genius first saw daylight in Paris, -in New York, or in Timbuctoo. I have more friends -out of England than in England. Like Kipling’s -cat, ‘all places are alike to me.’ I only ask that your -land be warm; and with all peoples who do not rob -me I am ready and eager to be good friends. To -<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>‘guard the frontiers’ in Art would be to bring back -the Dark Ages. The most sincere love of one’s own -country should never teach one to be disdainful of <i>les -autres</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You are going to Nationalist Turkey,” he replied, -“you will find yourself right up against Chauvinism -all the time.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I don’t believe it. Forgive me, I really think -you exaggerate. And besides—with my strong sympathies -for the Turks!—I have always found Orientals -the most broad-minded men.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then I brought back the talk to Pierre Loti. “Why -do you say that he dislikes England so much?” I -asked. “He <i>does</i> object to golf near the Pyramids; -he <i>is</i> a little sarcastic about ‘Messrs. Thos. Cook & -Co., Egypt, Ltd.,’ forgetting what it means to travel -without them; he dislikes our Government for its -pro-Greek policy and its injustice towards the Turks. -As an Englishwoman I agree. And, like him, too, I -regard New York as the nearest earthly approach to -hell! We certainly do not hate America; only its -noise, its materialism, and its advertising.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I knew Pierre Loti best, perhaps, at his charming -Basque home in Hendaye—thanks to my friendship -with his heroines, Melek and Zeyneb. I know, at -one time, he resented what seemed to him our Edward -VII.’s ‘interference’ in French affairs. But that -master of diplomats never gave his advice unasked; -and, when he was told of the great Frenchman’s -hostility, Pierre Loti was promptly invited to Windsor, -and they became the best of friends. Would he were -with us now, that he might but talk with the Ministers -of both nations!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“After Windsor, Loti, I’m sure, would have -spared his sarcasm. ‘There is one thing left now,’ he -once declared. ‘We must appeal to H.M. Edward VII. -<i>He</i> only can do what he likes in France!’ The French -Admiralty had just refused him permission to carry -away from one of their ships the table on which he -had written the ‘Désenchantées.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The captain, it seemed, was ready to waive this point.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>“But I do not consider,” he resumed, “that -Loti’s books are a true picture of Turkey as she is.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They would not, indeed, suit his arch-enemy -Messrs. Cook,” I replied; “as Turner painted, he -wrote, for those who have eyes to see. Tell him you -never saw <i>his</i> Turkey, and he would reply: ‘Don’t -you wish you could?’...</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Had Loti himself been English, he would, naturally, -have reached a larger public among us. The warmth -of his colouring is too often lost in translation. As a -schoolgirl I learnt by heart the wonderful Preface to -his “Ispahan”: ‘<i>Qui vent venir avec moi voir les roses -d’Ispahan</i>,’ and I have dreamt of those roses ever -since.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The captain then spoke of the avenue at Constantinople -which bears his name.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“A charming remembrance,” I replied, “but he -needs no such ‘rosemary.’ Do we realise, I wonder, -what French influence in the Near East owes to his -supreme art. In England, except for a small minority, -the word Turkey only means a vision of fair houris, -veiled in the mysteries of the past, the great ‘Red’ -Sultan, and massacres in Armenia. To France it -means Aziadé, the Green Mosque at Brousse, Djénane, -and the Fantômes d’Orient. Public opinion, to-day, -can be ‘manufactured’ as easily as butter and cheese; -but the imaginations once stirred by the magician’s -pen will not yield so easily to the last Brew of Hate. -France is not going to lose her dream of the East woven -from Loti’s pen. A debt of gratitude neither she, nor -Turkey itself, can ever pay.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>To travel by this steamer, bearing the name of a -writer one loves so well, brings unceasing delight. -Your menu-card, the life-belts on deck, even the -towels, all bear a name to fill the mind with memory of -beautiful things. As my eyes fell on the <i>Pierre Loti’s</i> -lifeboat, swinging on its davits, I recalled the “Pêcheurs -d’Islande,” with its tragic close: “and he never -returned!” All the sorrow, the suffering, and the -heart-ache; the useless watching, waiting, and longing—this, -for the women, is War!</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>Are we, indeed, to begin <i>that</i> all over again? For a -“Greater Greece” than the Greeks themselves can -sustain?</p> - -<p class='c012'>If <i>all</i> women who have suffered (and who has not?) -would march to Westminster to protest, would any -hear and pause? Can we fight a Press in the service -of profiteers, bolstering up the Government, blocking -the public view?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Are we not, after all, mere “pawns” of a Destiny -that none can avert?</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Pierre Loti’s long and interesting life is now very -quickly drawing to its close. He has written his last -words—a defence of his beloved Turks.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span> - <h2 id='ch02' class='c009'>CHAPTER II</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>TURKEY AND TOLERANCE—A FRIENDSHIP WASTED</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>My</span> supreme interest in Turkey among the Moslem -nations, arose from influences, or instincts, I cannot now -with any certainty determine. I suspect, however, it -was in part reaction against the injustice of Gladstone—the -idol of my father’s youth, until the betrayal of his -hero Gordon—and in part indignation with those who -called the Koran an “accursed book.” <i>My</i> religion -is the universal tolerance I expect for my own, and I -can feel only the most profound admiration for the -Great Prophet of Islam, whose fine personality has -left so benign an influence throughout the East, and for -his “Bible,” with its noble study of our own Christ. -Carlyle, you will remember, pays glowing tribute to -this “Prophet Hero!”</p> -<p class='c012'>So I devoured every book that I could lay hands on -about these interesting peoples; fought for introductions -to anyone who could talk of them, from book-knowledge -or personal acquaintance; studied medicine—that -their women might suffer less.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was in 1906 that I first met Pierre Loti’s “disenchanted” -heroines, Zeyneb and Melek; and we soon -became the closest friends. The tale of their daring, -but unpractical, flight had stirred my imagination. -Their father was one of Abdul Hamid’s Ministers, -and two or three times during my visit they were almost -kidnapped by order of the Sultan. On one occasion -it was, indeed, only a miracle which disclosed the plot -that was to have carried them off (by motor from Nice -to Marseilles, thence back by boat to Constantinople) -to the punishment awaiting them.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>For hours they held me spellbound by their vivid -descriptions of harem life, particularly the Sultan’s, -and of the “Terror” under Abdul Hamid. With this -clever monster at the helm, the Turks suffered a hundred -times more than the Christians. Whole regiments of -Albanians ceased to exist; whole companies went off -to Yemen and were forgotten; Ministers died suddenly, -and private families disappeared wholesale. Yet they -must be thrown out of Europe, “bag and baggage,” -because, in a minor degree, Christian Armenians, too, -bled under Abdul Hamid!</p> - -<p class='c012'>After the departure of the two Hanoums (Turkish -ladies), their father died suddenly. And though, when -in Constantinople, I did my best to see and console -their widowed mother, she persisted in regarding me -as one of those <i>giaours</i> who had stolen away her -daughters! And would listen to no defence or explanation.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was then that I heard much of the coming -Revolution: when and where “meetings” had taken -place, who were members of the “secret societies,” -which of their friends in prison would be liberated. -In 1908, the Day of Deliverance suddenly came, -to the astonishment of the whole world, and I, too, -rejoiced, as though my own country were now set -free!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was, luckily, again in Constantinople for those -great days. I saw the hideous tyrant of a few years -ago driven through the streets of Pera; I was present -at the opening of Parliament; introduced to the Sultan -Abdul Hamid and his Grand Vizier Kiamil Pasha.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was the Vizier’s charming daughter who soon -became my dearest friend, and hostess for two subsequent -visits. Once she spoke of me to Abdul Hamid’s -successor, Mohammed V., as her “English sister” -(her favourite term of endearment), and the Sultan -replied: “I did not know Kiamil Pasha had any -English children.” Poor man, he had a Turkish family -of a score!</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was Hamid’s fall that first revealed to me how -much Turkey loved England, what she was ready to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>give for British friendship. I had witnessed the -arrival of our Ambassador, the late Sir G. Lowther, -and his triumphant entry to Constantinople, when the -horses were taken out of his carriage and he was drawn -by Turks to the Embassy. As Abdul Hamid had compromised -the nation by friendship with Germans, young -Turkey threw herself at the feet of Great Britain.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Why could we not respond? Alas, our Ambassador -and his French colleague, M. Constant, would openly -express their preference for the despotic Abdul Hamid. -And what was said, no doubt with no serious thought -of offence, reached the ears of the young Turks and -stung their pride: “People who visit Constantinople -may be divided into two classes: those who like dirt -and squalor” (of whom I was one), “and those who -do not!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was inevitable that the Germans should make -<i>their</i> profit from <i>our</i> discourtesy and blind contempt. -We ought, from the first, to have known that she would -send, as indeed she did, one of her finest diplomats to -Constantinople. Marshall von Bieberstein, and his -“retriever,” Dr. W—— of the <i>Frankfurter Zeitung</i> -lost no opportunity of conciliating the young -Turks, to what end we might, surely, have foreseen!</p> - -<p class='c012'>After the Balkan war, I paid a visit to vanquished -Turkey; this time as a guest of my “Turkish sister” in -Stamboul, whose father had been, meanwhile, banished -to Cyprus, where he died. Under the circumstances I -could not (for fear of further compromising my friends -with the Government) see much of our Ambassador, -Sir Louis Mallet, though I met him twice, and found -him a charming man.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To all my appeals, at the Embassy and elsewhere, -for British friendship and help to put Turkey on her -feet again, I met the same foolish, “parrot” reply: -“We cannot sacrifice Russia!” Nevertheless, when I -returned to London, and published “An Englishwoman -in a Turkish Harem” (the diary record of private friendships, -widely circulated in the East), we, the friends -of Turkey, determined to defy the Government, and -formed an Ottoman Society for that purpose.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>When the war broke out I had just reached Berlin, -once more <i>en route</i> for Turkey, Asia Minor, and afterwards -Persia and India.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is obvious that the world-tragedy had even a -sharper sting for those of us who were bidden to hate -our life-long “best friends” among the enemy peoples. -Often enough, moreover, the individual “foe” (as -was the case with my Turkish “sister”) could not -throw off the heart’s allegiance to England merely -because “it was war.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Can we, indeed, honestly blame the young Turks? -In the first place, they did not choose their own path. -One man, Enver Pasha, joined Germany <i>against</i> the -wishes of a whole nation. As <i>one</i> man, Mr. Lloyd George, -would once have drawn the most constitutional of -all peoples to fight the Turks, had not General Harington, -luckily for them and us, disobeyed his command!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Besides, we did <i>nothing</i> to preserve our friendship -with Turkey. Years of indifference, and most impolitic -scoffings at real reforming enthusiasm, were -followed, at the eleventh hour, by total neglect of any -conciliating diplomacy, which could even then have -kept Turkey out of the war, and shortened it by two -years.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For instance, on the outbreak of war with Germany, -“without notice, without the most banal of the forms -of courtesy, on the very day when the Turkish flag -should have been hoisted over the ships handed over -to the Ottoman Commission, which had come to England -to take charge of them, the dreadnoughts were -seized by Great Britain and no offer was made by the -British Government to refund, at least, the price of the -two ships....” So wrote the late Grand Vizier Hakki -Pasha; and one could mention many other, similar, -senseless pin-pricks, which may inflame such people -almost more than insults of greater import.</p> - -<p class='c012'>During the war my friendship for Turkey proved a -serious handicap in hospital work. Anyone jealous -of what privileges were by chance accorded to me would -hand over a few choice tit-bits—that grew in passing—to -the secret police. The French, unless in a fit of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>really inevitable war-depression, paid scant heed to -such reports. The Americans, however, easily took -alarm. One, I remember, actually spoke to me about -the matter with a terror only equalled, in my experience, -by that of the Cabinet Minister’s brother who -once asked me: “How I could do anything so foolish -as to live in a harem?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was a poor compliment to one of Turkey’s greatest -statesmen, and to my hostess, his distinguished -daughter.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But when I found that Roget’s “Thesaurus” gives -as synonym for a harem, “a house of ill fame,” I -understood!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Turkey, however, was crushed, defeated and, at -Sèvres, humiliated. Were we not courting disaster -by such unjust terms? If we remove the foot holding -them down—but ever so slightly—will they rebound -and strike?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I cannot understand,” I said to one of their -delegates, “how a Turk could be found to sign such a -Treaty.” For always, with all their faults, I had -known them proud.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Had we not signed,” he answered, “the Greeks -would have entered Constantinople, and God knows -when we could have driven them out. What does it -matter, the Treaty will not be ratified.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>To keep out the Greeks, to save bloodshed! Maybe -he was right.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“At least, we are set free from Germany,” they -said; and there is little we could not have asked then -for such security.</p> - -<p class='c012'>They would have allowed Great Britain any privileges, -any concessions, all sovereign rights, if only we -had not permitted the occupation of Smyrna! When -the Dutch <i>pasteur</i>, M. Lebouvier, sent the <i>Times</i> a -full description of all the hideous bloodshed, the -saturnalian orgies, and the riot with which the Greeks -celebrated their triumphal entry, it was <i>suppressed</i>—and -Englishmen do not know!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Consternation, despair, and anger were the order -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>of the day. Those hitherto most apologetic for the -part played by Turkey in the war, were now ready to -glory in what they had done. A million and a half -Turks enslaved by 300,000 “servant” Greeks! Can -such things be?</p> - -<p class='c012'>In Constantinople a mass meeting of 250,000 -people was held at the Byzantine Hippodrome, -flags and banners were draped in black, women sobbed -as at a funeral. They were <i>mourning</i>, indeed, for the -city they were afterwards accused of having burned!</p> - -<p class='c012'>By what deplorable influence were we thus moved -to attempt what would practically have meant the -extermination of Turkey? The magic name of Venizelos -is not enough! Again and again, the friends -of Turkey have asked why? But we do not know -whether British action was deliberate or the result of -an incredibly big blunder!</p> - -<p class='c012'>M. Kemal Pasha’s great victory changed the face -of affairs. Few in England had seemed to care what -happened to this band of “rebels”; only a month -before his victory, even our Intelligence Officers thought -he would easily be beaten by the Greeks. Few had -even heard of his three and a half years exile in the -mountains!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Meanwhile, at home, we paid little heed, and scant -courtesy, to the three Ambassadors from Angora, who -came to negotiate peace. Békir Sami Bey’s confidential -conversations with the ex-Prime Minister about the -Soviet Government were handed on to M. Krassine. -Youssouf Kemal Bey, indeed, obtained a hearing, but -nothing was done. Fethi Bey (the Minister of the -Interior, sent as a last resource) was told, and that was -true, that Lord Curzon was seriously ill, but that no -one “counted” in England except Mr. Lloyd George. -Naturally, he asked the Premier for an audience, which -was “promised,” but never given!</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>Incivility does not pay.</i> It is too expensive a -luxury for the greatest of nations. This level-headed -Turk, accepting such treatment with all the dignity of -his race, found many <i>other</i> things to praise in this -country. “The English,” he said, “understand only -<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span><i>one</i> form of propaganda—the sword!” But of our -institutions, our Parliament, our clubs, and the marvellous -acting of Miss Sybil Thorndike in “Jane Clegg,” -he said much, and nothing but praise, in Angora!</p> - -<p class='c012'>As a woman who has received the greatest kindness -and courtesy from the Turks, my resentment, on behalf -of Fethi Bey, was expressed with unmeasured indignation. -His mission was <i>not</i> taken seriously; the Government -dared to show him the cold shoulder!</p> - -<p class='c012'>For his part, most graciously he suggested that I -should come over to Angora myself, to the cradle of -the Nationalist movement, and see the hero of the -Nationalists.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But for his ever-ready assistance it would have -been useless to have made the attempt. When, in -Angora, he renewed his apologies for all the discomfort -I had endured, but I told him the journey itself had -been a privilege, for it enabled me to see with my own -eyes what his people had been driven to endure.</p> - -<p class='c012'>No, I could never have forgiven myself if, in a -moment of weakness, I had been discouraged by the -chivalry of the British officials and allowed them to -persuade me to stay at home.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span> - <h2 id='ch03' class='c009'>CHAPTER III</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>MALTA: THE NAME I WAS TO HEAR THROUGHOUT ANATOLIA</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Our</span> first stopping-place was Malta, the name I was -destined to hear from one end of Anatolia to the -other.</p> -<p class='c012'>Was it not of Malta that Angora was born; and -since “the trouble” in the East, Malta has been -turned into a universal dumping-ground for officers’ -wives and refugees. Whenever M. Kemal Pasha lifts -his little finger, or Rauf Bey opens his mouth, the women -and children are bundled off to Malta. They return, -indeed, on any excuse, at the first opportunity (as -why should they not?), until a panic-stricken Government -again sends them to exile. One lady with us -had done the trip in this way four times!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Constantinople, without our women, makes one -wonder if it were so wise as it appears, thus to play -for safety! After all, cannot the Englishwoman -endure what the Russian, Greek and Armenian are -left to put up with? If the husband is in danger, -should not his wife be with him? “We want to -‘protect’ our women,” I had been told, and there is -no finer ideal than chivalry. But, after Constantinople, -I would suggest that we women also “want to -protect our men!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Softening, perhaps, the frankness for which my -“French” education has been so often held responsible, -I would only say: “There are alluring distractions!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>And in marriage I pin my faith upon the Italian -proverb: “Keep to the women and cows of your own -country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>The utter destitution of so many members of the -old Russian aristocracy, has not deprived its women of -their temperamental charm. It has provided them -with an occasion (genuine enough, God knows) for -tears no British youth can resist, unmoved as he will -remain under the fiercest shell-fire.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet one Englishman told me his Russian wife had -taken every penny he possessed, and vanished—he knew -not where. Another “fears it is only a matter of time. -His ‘noble’ wife cannot be expected to put up with -Clapham, and when something better turns up, he will -be discarded.” One married “a sweet, soft voice” out -of sheer loneliness; and another, foolish and rich, -clothed in priceless ermine the lady he met “at a -bar!” There is no need to dwell on other, less -honourable, “consequences” of such “casual” -meetings.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At every corner in Constantinople the “bar” -invites the busy and the brave to cocktails or a -whisky, an example we have given the “despised” -Turk, who had the wisdom to make Angora “dry.” -Here, too, is the best of chances for pro-Greek propaganda, -as our men meet no “Turkish” women, who -are “really” safe in the bosom of their families. One -is tempted, almost, to hope that for them the day of -“freedom” may be postponed.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Facing this ugly side of what an “Army of Occupation” -must always entail, does the Englishwoman -who absolutely refused to “leave” need to stand on -her defence? “Vanity Fair,” moreover, may serve to -remind us that there were English women near Waterloo; -and do our present generation require such careful -wrapping in cotton-wool, while they are, nevertheless, -too often left unprotected in the drab, hum-drum life -of a modern “business” world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is remarkable, again, to reflect that every Turk -one meets, who really “counts for something” in -Angora, is a “Malta” man. If M. Kemal Pasha -believed in decorations, surely a special medal would -have been devised for those who had “visited” -Malta.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>As a prison, it is agreeable enough, though the -climate strikes one as enervating. The sun shines, -even brightly, for the greater part of the year, and -sunshine softens the captive’s lot! Had I never -visited the island I should have soon learnt to know -“the sights,” for in so many homes of Angora, Maltese -picture postcards are displayed, almost like holy -relics: Valetta, the “Chapel of Bones” (a barbaric -idea), the Mahommedan cemetery, the cathedral, and -the landing-stage. Everywhere, too, are the fair -ladies of Malta, whose head-dresses closely resemble -the Turkish tcharchaff.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Angelus had sounded as I first entered the -cathedral, to find myself amidst long rows of black-veiled -women, reverently kneeling on the cold inlaid-marble -floor, their heads bent in prayer, their fingers -counting the beads as they recited their rosaries. -The native type is dark-skinned, almost Mongolian, -but they all speak English. For are they not British -subjects, paid in British money, and entitled to our -protection? There was talk, indeed, of extending -the cover of “Nationalism” to them also; but, -personally, I still felt everywhere, and all the time, that -calming atmosphere of order, happiness, and prosperity -that is brought by the British flag.</p> - -<p class='c012'>How is it, then, that we have so consistently failed -to quiet the Turkish storms? Of course, every one -of the “powers” has been involved, each playing for -its own hand, striving to end or prolong the war in -its own interests.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is well known that the Turk himself has above -all committed one crime—he has kept Constantinople!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Bent on a policy of peace (!) we undertook to disarm -Turkey; but the mission despatched to Anatolia -for this purpose could, or would, not accomplish its -task. Then in May, 1919, despite the Mudros Armistice, -we allowed the Greeks to occupy Smyrna! In March -of the following year, came the English <i>coup d’état</i>!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The highest personalities—generals, important -officials, anyone suspected of sympathy with the -Nationalists—were arrested, placed in the hold of a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>man-of-war, for internment at Malta. All were taken -on mere suspicion, thrust into prison without trial!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet the <i>naïveté</i> of the whole proceeding is almost -<i>more</i> puzzling than its high-handed injustice! These -dangerous men (!), supposed to be plotting against -Great Britain, are all huddled together, and left to -their own devices, for two years—and then released! -Were we afraid? Did we repent? Will Government -never <i>pursue</i> one policy to its logical conclusion?</p> - -<p class='c012'>I could but “wonder about” these things as I -knelt in prayer. Clouds of incense have filled the -cathedral, the Blessed Sacrament is safely returned -to the tabernacle, the huge candles are extinguished, -and the veiled ladies are reverently leaving the dimly-lighted -church. Cannot faith bring peace?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There must be peace.” I, who have faith in -the spoken word, will declare it, everywhere and all -the time, and will count him traitor who utters a -word to the contrary. But I will tell them in Angora -that “I am sorry for” Malta!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Fethi Bey, Minister of the Interior, carries his comfortable -Turkish philosophy to the last extreme. -Whatever happens, he will say that “It might have -been worse.” In Malta, he acknowledged that he -would have preferred greater comfort, but, then, -“he <i>might</i> have been much more uncomfortable!” -In any case, he seized upon the chance to learn English, -and learnt it remarkably well. It is best, he believes, -to understand an enemy; and, to that end, you must -learn his language. Of Mr. Lloyd George, he declared -that “Turkey owes him a debt of gratitude we can -never repay.... But for the occupation of Smyrna, -and the Malta <i>coup d’état</i>, there would have been no -Nationalists. But for your Prime Minister we might -all of us have been vassals. Indeed, we owe him a -great deal.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I asked him what to expect in Angora, he -warned me that “I must not look for the luxuries of -the Savoy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>“Well, I can leave our jazz bands without one -pang,” I replied.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But you may find worse things in Angora than -Jazz bands.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Men like Fethi Bey, ready to meet all emergencies -without complaint, make the right material to face the -problem of Reconstruction, in a country ruined from -end to end; and what a comfort it is to meet a man -without a grievance!</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I attempted to sympathise with him for -having to ride, because no motor could take these -snow-blocked roads, he declared that “exercise would -do him good.” When his horse stumbled, “it might -have been worse.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet, on <i>my</i> account, he apologised again and again -for the condition of Angora; and I could only compare -his humorous comparison with the Savoy, to Dr. -Réchad’s strange attempt at consolation: “You -certainly won’t need any evening dresses.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is, no doubt, the gift for always making the best -of a bad bargain, that works for peace in the Turkish -home. Your husband is not perfect, but “he might -be worse”; the food is bad, but there might not be -any; if the rooms are not clean, “we have known dirtier.” -It is an “accommodating” point of view!</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is a story by Nasreddin Hodja, the great -Turkish wit, which happily illustrates this racial -characteristic. The Anatolian lived in constant terror -of a vociferous wife, though no doubt he often reflected -that there were worse women in the world. One day, -however, someone told him that she had fallen into -the river, and was being carried away by the tide. -“Don’t worry,” said he, with a stoic’s calm, “she -will go against it. She always does.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>On another occasion, this man of wit had carried a -basket of figs to the lame Timur, on an official visit -of respect. Timur amused himself by throwing the -fruit in the Hodja’s face; but at each blow he cried out: -“Allah is Great.” When asked why he so often praised -God, he answered: “My wife wanted me to bring -you apples.” Since Timur was privileged, if it pleased -<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>him, to strike the guest, he “thanked God” that he -had chosen <i>the smaller</i> and lighter fruit.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As for my own mission in Malta, I had really come -to buy a British flag!, as Messrs. Cook’s manager at -Naples had supplied “everything” but just that.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For years I have never travelled without a Union -Jack. The idea of undertaking so long and dangerous -a journey without it, filled me with strange foreboding. -Everywhere on the Front I had my “flag.” In a state -of coma at the military hospital, the nuns were in great -distress because I had expressed a wish to be buried in -the flag, which, being under my pillow, was nowhere to -be found! Naturally, in Paris I had foreseen my need. -But the registered trunk, booked to Rome, had fallen -on evil days, and there will be no luck for the “thief,” -who is probably polishing his boots with my sacred relic!</p> - -<p class='c012'>At first, I seemed unable to escape the lace-makers -of Malta; and when, following the direction of a naval -officer, I found myself at last in a real “Harrod’s -Store,” my luck, also, was still out. At the Army and -Navy, the managing director declared they had “no -sale for Union Jacks.”... Each man possessed his -own. He dared not sell me the firm’s flag, for an order -to hoist it might be given at any moment; and, if he -failed to obey, he would very likely be driven out of -the island!</p> - -<p class='c012'>As a last resource, I drove to a man said to have -“flags for hire.” By this time I was too frenzied -with disappointment to conceal my eagerness, and -they promised me one for £7! Luckily enough, excitement -prompted me to unfurl my treasure then and -there, to find myself gazing, in mute astonishment, -upon the Stars and Stripes! “Isn’t it the same thing?” -cried the impostor, as I flung myself out of the shop.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But time and tide wait for no woman, and I must -silence my superstitions, to join the <i>Pierre Loti</i> once -more. Taking a last look on the fortifications of -Malta, my thoughts turned to the imprisoned Turks, -and my heart was filled with shame.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One day, perhaps, the Turks may hold Malta -sacred, for assuredly the cream of her people were -<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>gathered there. One might almost have thought that -such men as Prince Said Halim (late Grand Vizier), -Rauf Bey, Fethi Bey, Hussein Djahid, and my admirable -Angora guide,) Vely-Nedjdat, had been carefully -selected to keep each other company.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mrs. Stan-Harding once said of her eight and a half -months in a Soviet prison: “At least I had this -advantage, I met the best people in Russia.” As her -hearers seemed puzzled by such a statement, she -added, “They were all, naturally, in prison!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I must tell them, in Angora, that England, at least, -has always honestly tried to put right her own wrong-doings, -and one day (may it be soon!) she will “redeem” -herself to them also.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mr. H. G. Wells somewhere describes the strange, -great love we often feel for those we have deeply -wronged—the wife, the friend, the enemy. May it -not, at the long last, be so “after the war?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Who knows if, indeed, this be not the dark hour -before the dawn, of our nation’s friendships—with those -we have been led to hate?</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span> - <h2 id='ch04' class='c009'>CHAPTER IV</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>ATHENS—“WE HAVE LOVED HELEN; MUST WE DIVORCE HER?”</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>If</span> only it were always calm, how delightful it would -be to travel by sea!</p> -<p class='c012'><span class='sc'>From</span> Malta to Athens, indeed, is not a long run; -but when every moment you are tossed from side to -side, at the mercy of all the winds in heaven, most -things have a disagreeable look. As we approached -the brown and arid coast of this historic peninsula, -I thought how unjust it seems to have driven the -Ottoman Greeks out of fertile Turkey to a fatherland -that cannot feed them. You cannot obtain blood from -a stone, nor fruitful crops from an unfertile soil. -What is Greece to do for these poor people, who -cannot all turn merchants or moneylenders?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Before landing at Piræus, with my Italian escort, -I took the precaution to investigate the rate of exchange—250 -drachmas to the £1 sterling.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is strange,” said I, “that we have none of this -inconvenience in Turkey. There one always gets a -fair ‘exchange,’ and no worry.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The steamer slows down to anchor, and on all -sides we are hustled by modern Shylocks. “Two -hundred and fifty drachmas for a pound,” I asked, -“how many for five shillings?” And the Greek -answered: “Fifteen.” “Come and listen to this -Greek arithmetic,” I called in Italian; but the man -understood me, and let out a hearty laugh. Though -I turned from him, without malice, he promptly raised -his price from fifteen to forty-five (!), and in the end I -<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>bought drachmas enough to take us ashore, hoping -for better terms on land.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I shall never forget that day at Piræus—heat and -dust, flies and refugees. Could a more terrible combination -be imagined? All along the quays lay these -wretched folk, many of them fast asleep, with armies -of flies crawling over them. If by chance one stumbled -over a dusky body, which it was not easy to distinguish -from the soil, a cloud of flies rose to smite -you in the face—the most fatal of disease-carriers! -The brown-faced women, dirtier even than the Neopolitans, -now crowded round us, offering cakes and -sweets from which they were every moment obliged -to brush off thick coatings of flies, that once more -struck one in the face or settled over my shoulders.</p> - -<p class='c012'>My Italian escort had, meanwhile, kindly procured -a newspaper to act as fan, and now, hurriedly brushing -away these horrible pests, he took a silk handkerchief -out of his pocket to cover my neck. “What a -magnificent husband you will make for someone,” I -said, smiling with gratitude; and he blushed with -all the charm of his twenty-one years.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In another moment my eye fell on the hard brown -faces and big “Jewish” noses of the moneylenders, -forcing a smile as they call on you to “buy.” They -have very much the same expression as Southern -Italians; keeping one eye, it would almost seem, to -make a pleasant impression on possible purchasers, -while the other betrays the keen and swift reckoning -of profits to the uttermost farthing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Seated behind little tables topped with boxes of -glass, they are eagerly displaying their filthy paper -money; haggling, arguing, smiling, and cheating you -in one breath! Surely no type of humanity could -carry us further from the heroes of our schoolday -imaginings!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Wearied with fly-dodging, in fact, I had scant -energy left for a “good bargain,” over this “paper -filth” for honest English sterling.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Sympathy now prompted me to ask the Italian -Whether his eyes were not in pain; and, by the power -<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>of auto-suggestion, the inquiry caused my own to ache -as they had never ached before. Before we landed the -captain had given me a solemn warning on no account -to rub my eyes, however tormented by the continual -glare of a bright sun on white houses, or I should be -certain to “catch an incurable eye-disease and go on -‘weeping’ to the end of my days.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Never, never speak of disease again,” I had -answered. “Misfortunes come quickly enough, without -our going to fetch them.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Fortunately even the flies could not make it a -<i>long</i> journey from Piræus to Athens; and we could -glance in passing at the quaint and not unattractive -bookstalls, now showing large photographs of modern -“Heroes”—the Greek generals! After all, they had -done their best. <i>They</i> were no more responsible for -the mistakes of <i>their</i> Government, than we are for ours.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Taking train for the last part of our route, we were -packed like sardines among the ugliest possible types -of human beings one could imagine; but, luckily, -soon alighted at a station whose magic name should -thrill the dullest heart.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We were in Athens! But the Italian could only -exclaim: “What women!” I reminded him that -they were, after all, descended from Helen of Troy, -for whose beauty the world in its youth made war. -Yet it seemed almost a heresy to name that name in -such surroundings.</p> - -<p class='c012'>If only one could show all men what a tragedy is -here.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There is something I long to do,” I told my companion. -“I would summon crowds of my countrymen -and my countrywomen to the Albert Hall and -borrow the magic tongue of Mr. Lloyd George, to draw -their tears for our dear Christian brethren at the mercy -of the brutal Turk! And then a deputation of -these money-changing Greeks should be brought in -to stand at the Welshman’s right hand and his left!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>How many, even then, would read, mark, and -digest the grim comment?</p> - -<p class='c012'>But the Italian laughed again and again at the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>picture my words suggested. I could only murmur: -“What is it, to be twenty-one!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I believe we went into every church in Athens; -for ever since I left home I have never passed a -church or a mosque without sparing a moment to -enter and pray for peace. “It will do no good,” said -my companion, and I replied: “It will do no harm.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>We saw many women also at prayer, kneeling before -their Ikons—not for victory, but in sad thoughts of -their own dead, and for help and strength to bear their -own terrible sorrows.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Once the Greek Pope came up and spoke to us, -supposing, to my young Italian’s honest confusion, -that we were man and wife. The spirit moved him to -denounce, in very broken French, the treachery of -England; and, whether or no it was from heat and -fatigue, or from the sight of those broken-hearted -women, something seemed to burst in my throat and -bitter tears streamed from my tired eyes. I could -not tell him <i>I</i> was English. I could not find words -or strength, such as came to me later in Anatolia, to -plead a little for England by putting some of the -blame on M. Venizelos.</p> - -<p class='c012'>While the Italian discreetly left me—to kneel before -an Ikon in silent prayer to the Man of Sorrows—I -could but stand and suffer the attack upon my beloved -country, choking with tears of humiliation.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Alas, the incident does not stand alone. When -taking tea in an hotel, I asked my companion to make -inquiries about the best place to buy a Union Jack, -and the proprietor seized the opportunity to give us -<i>his</i> opinion of British honour.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Now I never heard, throughout the whole of Anatolia, -a single Turk speak of Britain or Mr. Lloyd George -as these Greeks both spoke. It is a pity that some of -our pro-Greek politicians were not with me—to learn -the <i>real</i> value of all they have undertaken for their -Christian brethren.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In that church, maybe, I was so cruelly overcome -because the broken-hearted women had stirred in me a -glowing vision of the great Pericles. “For me,” was -<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>his proud boast, “shall no man wear mourning. I -have not shed one drop of human blood.” Could any -ruler leave this earth with a nobler record? Could -any conceive for himself so fine an epitaph?</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>Our</i> rulers, and Venizelos, have wasted the precious -blood of Europe to flatter their personal vanity and -nurse an idle imperialism for Greece; and when -everything goes wrong they have only to resign!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I had determined to ascend the Acropolis, whatever -the effort to reach the top, and refused even to be -discouraged when at the very entrance our driver pulled -up and informed us that “it was forbidden” to drive -within.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It did not occur to me to protest; but we had -scarcely walked twenty yards up the steep ascent when -a carriage (containing the captain and his daughter) and -then another carriage (!) drove by. Naturally indignant, -we returned to ask the man what he meant. To evade -argument, he disingenuously explained: “It would -need two horses to get up there, and I have only one.” -The subterfuge only infuriated me the more, and when -he had six times sturdily refused to obey orders, I -simply seized the miserable little being by the shoulders -and shook him like a rat. Violence proved the only -way, and we had no more trouble with him!</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is horrible, in such hallowed surroundings, to be -haggling about money; but, of course, we were -cheated over our change!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Never mind,” said the Italian, “let the creatures -rob us. Gentlemen cannot fight with grooms.” And -as I looked at the exquisite profile of this young Venetian -against the Athenian skies, I could fancy myself -accompanied by one of the old Patricians, amidst his -degenerate, money-changing descendants.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Almost in silence we wandered over the ruins of a -civilisation whence came the highest culture of the -world. I felt, indeed, as if I had been born too late; -for what have <i>I</i> in common with the century in which -I live?</p> - -<p class='c012'>To-day nations are not judged by their lyrics -that are the measure of their imagination, and without -<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>imagination the race must die. Our standards are -skill in commerce!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Had I the art, whether of pen or brush, to pay fit -homage to this immortal rock, who would look or -listen? Could I invent yet one more machine to -“save time”—for making more money—the world -would be at my feet.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Where shall <i>we</i> look for a Pericles, who hand our -laurels to the presiding genius of a “cash and carry” -<i>store</i>?</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is no finer view of Athens than one can gain -from the Acropolis, as the city lies at its feet, like some -plain of brown paper dotted with green palms and the -little white houses drawn in chalk.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Here,” said I, “is the Greece of Oxford—of -Homer and Plato, of Æschylus and of Sophocles! -The magnificent traditions of an immortal past.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It was in Oxford of classic memories, that I -first heard the Tales of Greece, first listened to her great -scholars telling of Andromache and Antigone in the -exquisite language of the finest literature in the world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Here, too, is the Greece of Byron—of Childe -Harold, and of the <i>Maid of Athens</i>!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>How the voice carries in this clear atmosphere! -No wonder these ancient people would crowd under -the blue skies to every play, tragic or comic, that their -great dramatists could produce.</p> - -<p class='c012'>And now, as the sunset colours—gold, scarlet, -violet, and purple—are glowing upon the immortal -rock, over the marble ruins, I marvel at “tiny” -Athens and her “vast” name.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Alas, for Hellas and modern Greece!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Had her own people been as faithful as Oxford -to the traditions of ancient Greece, what would have -been the Eastern Question to-day? And for some, -no doubt, it is this very honouring of Hellas that has -been responsible for our fatal pro-Greek enthusiasms. -If we recognise the superiority of the modern Turk, -loyalty to Plato, to Aristotle, and to Socrates must -forbid speech; gratitude to the lyrcis of Hellas must -tie the tongue. Orators and poets, artists and thinkers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>cannot forget. Hellas still lives and rules in the -Republic of Letters and Art.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We understand Oxford; but for those who have -been on the spot, facts tell another tale and speak -with another voice. Where, in Greece to-day, are her -men of intellect or imagination, even her aristocrats -or her warriors? The millions spent in propaganda -may serve to prolong the legend, they cannot alter -facts. To visit, with glowing anticipations, this land -of our dreams, means the awakening to bitter disillusion. -Those only are still blind who will not see.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In Angora I could but plead for England: “We -have loved Helen; must we divorce her?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>More than the eloquence of Venizelos, more than -the gold of Zakaroff, more than any pity for Christian -martyrs; it is our age-old loyalty to the civilisation -to which we owe our visions and our ideals—that has -led us so woefully and so wilfully astray. Is there not, -after all, some “merit” in British “fair play” to -a “lost cause?”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span> - <h2 id='ch05' class='c009'>CHAPTER V</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>SMYRNA: A PICTURE OF DESOLATION</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>For</span> Orientals, the sky is no less variable and uncertain -than the political horizon. In the space of an hour -the sea, calm as a lake, has been transformed to a -roaring torrent.</p> -<p class='c012'>Smyrna in the distance, and we are battling forward -through one of the worst storms of the season. The -steamer dances like a cork on the foam, while long -sheets of rain drench the decks, huge waves washing -into staterooms soak the carpet, thunder and lightning -rage overhead; as in the grim battle of life, we can -but hold on till the clouds pass.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Soon, indeed, are the waters about us again at -rest, and the town rises to our view. A city burnt to -the ground? Where are the ruins of which we have -heard so much? Of a sudden the heavens answer.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As the lightning begins to play over the land, the -“shells” of houses and their hollow interiors stand out -clear before us—a picture of horror and desolation -it would be hard to match. As we draw nearer it is -no longer necessary for us to gaze upon the devastation; -the blind could catch a strong smell of burning (not -in itself disagreeable) and, in a few moments, we see -that even the rains have not entirely quenched the -clouds of smoke still rising from the tobacco factories.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Turkey considers herself at war, and red tape still -prevails. But now one does not find many Turks who -can speak English, though, strange to relate, there are -quite a few English here still. We are not issuing -passports to Turks!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Seeing my Turkish letters (better these than a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>British passport), the passport officer sent his secretary -with me and my luggage to the Vali’s (<i>i.e.</i> -governor’s) house. The Angora Ambassador in Rome, -Djelalledine Arif Bey, had also telegraphed to the -Vali that I was on my way, and requested that, as some -acknowledgment of what I had done for Turkey, I -should be given all possible facilities and a right -royal welcome! The Vali, without doubt, did all he -could.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I inquired of the officer what kind of man was the -Vali, sure that the measure of his enthusiasm or his -indifference would clearly reveal whether the master -was liked by his men and thus provide me with a peep -into the unknown. The man’s eyes positively lit up as -he replied. It was clear that I should be well received -by a good man. “He was sent to Malta, you know,” -concluded the officer, as if that were enough. And, -though I was English, I understood. I believe that -the word “Malta” may soon be safely translated -“patriot.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I suppose it needed some courage to come to Turkey, -braving the Custom house and passport officers even -with special “protection”; but I met with no difficulties -whatever. My companion only seemed puzzled -by my name being the same as my father’s! A -Turkish woman, of course, would be, <i>e.g.</i>, Aïché Hanoun, -wife of Rechid Pasha, or daughter of Zia Pasha. -But have no foreign women, bearing their father’s -name, been through the Smyrna customs, or am -I not only the first British woman to visit Angora, but -the first British spinster to enter Turkey?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Something of all I owed to the Vali for his “speeding -up” of the customary formalities was forcibly -impressed on me when I went back for my Turkish -papers, to find one of my fellow-passengers, a Frenchman, -still struggling with his passport and the custom -duties.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Vali’s konak (or palace) which I had long known -from pictures, looks on to public gardens where the -band plays every afternoon a strange mixture of -Oriental and European music. It was delightful to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>hear Oriental tunes again, if indeed one can call -Oriental music <i>a tune</i>. Anything in the major key -seems out of focus with Turkey, its atmosphere, its -scenery, and surroundings. The more one hears and -understands the piercing melancholy of these refrains -the more one loves them; and I am particularly -grateful to all those Turks (M. Kemal Pasha included) -who entertained me with the true native work.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In front of the marble steps of the palace Greek -flags are used as mats—dishonoured and trampled -with Turkish mud! Such a symbol of conquest -struck me as neither generous nor happy; but I soon -found that it had been adopted without the knowledge -of the chivalrous Vali, who immediately put a stop to -the custom.</p> - -<p class='c012'>His palace is lavishly supplied with fine carpets, -always the chief item of furniture in the East, while -there are many chairs and a handsome desk in the -waiting room.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Welcome to our shores, dear miss,” said the Vali.</p> - -<p class='c012'>And that he might at once disassociate me from -English policy, I replied: “That is certainly a charming -welcome from a Malta man.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Malta to me,” said my host, as he took my hand -like an old friend, “is still incomprehensible. What -can have happened to England?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I understand it, dear Excellency, no better than -you can. The more I hear of what has taken place in -Turkey during the last few years, the more often I -repeat your own words. What, indeed? To an -Englishwoman who loves her country, it means great -sorrow; but this unreasoning hostility towards your -people must stop. That is why I am going to Angora. -After my visit, at any rate, the Turks shall see that -<i>one</i> Englishwoman can stand out against injustice.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Thank you a thousand times, dear miss,” was -his reply, as the attendant brought in coffee and -cigarettes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Like all the Nationalist leaders, the Vali is a young -man. He looks, in fact, about forty, and comes from -an Albanian family. Of medium height, slight and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>dark, good-looking despite his glasses, and intelligent; -he is, above all, an honest and kindly gentleman. -If all the “fanatics” of Angora are of this description, -I shall have nothing to fear. Abdul Halik Bey -is a great admirer of England.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Begging I should not hesitate to ask for anything, -assuring me that no service possible to render will be -neglected, he called up the head of the police and three -of his officers to make my acquaintance. The Vali -explains that as Smyrna is in ruins, I must go to the -only existing hotel—a temporary establishment under -the care of Naim Bey, who had been the proprietor -of the two best hotels in Smyrna, now burnt to the -ground. This “temporary establishment” was the -town residence of the Spartallis and a very fine -mansion indeed!</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I had said <i>au revoir</i> to the Vali, I paid my -return visit to the chief of the police, Zia Bey—a handsome -and very energetic young man of about thirty-two, -who speaks only Turkish.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Again we drank coffee. He pointed to the picture -of M. Kemal Pasha above his desk, and made a little -speech about him, which, alas, I could not understand. -As comment, however, I clapped my hands, -adding: “M. Kemal Pasha Chok Guzel” (<i>i.e.</i>, very -beautiful), which evidently pleased him. He could see -at least that my spirit was willing to pay tribute to his -national hero although the Turkish words failed me. -Throughout Anatolia, whenever at a loss for words, I -adopted this phrase; never once did it fail to convey -the meaning I intended—congratulations for his -magnificent victory.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Zia Bey has published some detective novels—from -his own personal experiences. Like the man himself, -they seem to have secured wide applause.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He, too, like the Vali, is a stern enemy to delay, -and often receives several people at once. He will -listen to all you have to say, while the business of an -earlier caller is still to be executed. Practical and -courteous though such a custom may be, it obviously -has its drawbacks. I wonder what would happen had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>I any advice to ask, or any suggestion to make, on -what to me at least might seem private and confidential -matters. Thanks to this system, however, it has been -my privilege to meet at the Vali’s, or at Zia Bey’s, -many notables of Smyrna, whom I might not have -found time or occasion to visit.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One day when drinking my daily coffee with Zia -Bey, he handed 20,000 Turkish pounds to a French -merchant. A policeman, he explained, “found this -in your rifled safe.” The merchant was so astonished -that he spoke to me about it, adding: “Would they -have been returned to me in any other land?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Every day, after calling upon the Vali, I used to -visit Zia Bey. To the Vali, of course, I could speak in -French, but to Zia Bey I seldom went further than a -repetition of praise for M. Kemal Pasha. It is not -words that count when the heart is following the -dictates of truth.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At the hotel I could only be accommodated by the -dismissal of another guest. Men were sleeping everywhere—in -the drawing-room, sitting-rooms, bedrooms, -three, four, and six in a room, grateful to find anywhere -to lay their heads. To my lot fell one of the best rooms -in the house, containing a sofa as well as a bed large -enough for four. I felt very guilty, but what could -I do? I was the only woman!</p> - -<p class='c012'>To this improvised hotel everyone in Smyrna comes -sooner or later, if not for accommodation, at least for -meals and “light” refreshment. The country, of -course, is dry, but the guests walk round the laws as -cleverly as they do in the U.S.A. Americans are, perhaps, -the chief offenders, and seem always able to bring in -with them whatever they require. If they are caught -Naim has to pay the damages! “Poor things,” he -remarked by way of comment, “they are so far from -their homes.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Most unfortunately, the Turk’s kindness and consideration -for his customers is not withheld from the -flies. The Nationalist motto, “A free and independent -Turkey,” has certainly been granted them—they -go wherever they like, do whatever they like. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>They sit in thick layers on the table-cloth, they drown -themselves in your glasses, you swallow them with -your food; “and to think,” said a Danish merchant, -“these creatures have been fattening on corpses!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Whatever their nationality, all my neighbours -made the most chivalrous endeavours to shield me from -these pests. I was advised to sacrifice my bread as -a cover to my glass when not drinking. I always -refused water, and Naim Bey defied the law to give -me German wine.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One day, exasperated beyond endurance, I procured -what the French call a “guillotine,” and successfully -slaughtered every fly that came within my reach. -The “Italian” gently inquired whether the corpses -were not more awful than the living insects.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“At least,” I said, “they cannot bite or carry -microbes,” and I pursued the slaughter with a zeal -that astonished even myself. I even aimed at those -I saw walking over the South American’s arm, and hit -his nose! Without a smile, he courteously declared -that he did not mind what I might do to his nose, -“but you <i>will</i> be careful of my glasses, won’t you?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Can’t you <i>do</i> something?” I asked Naim one -day.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They will go away when it is cold,” he replied -with the philosophy of the true Turk.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Cure or endure is also <i>my</i> motto,” I told him, -smiling, “but I never endure before I’ve made a fine -attempt to cure.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>On another occasion, my energies were not rewarded -with true <i>Christian</i> gratitude or tact. I was busy as -usual, when an orthodox lady who had given her -nationality as “Catholic,” and was staying in Smyrna -by special dispensation of the Turks, said to a Greek -neighbour: “Look at this lady slaughtering flies, as -her friends the Turks slaughter Christians.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Madame,” said I, “I have passed this morning -among the ruins to which your ‘Christians’ have -reduced this city.” I had yet to see the hideous -devastation in Anatolia!</p> - -<p class='c012'>There were about two or three hundred business -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>men in the hotel, waiting to learn their fate. They -divided themselves into three distinct groups, in three -different mess rooms. <i>First</i>, the silent, water-drinking, -go-to-bed-at-nine Turks, in the library. <i>Secondly</i>, -Americans, in the smoking-room, who left their allegiance -to prohibition on the other side of the Atlantic; -singing and dancing to the accompaniment of a banjo -till the small hours of the morning. <i>Thirdly</i>, at a -long table in the dining-room, sat the rest of us—principally -business men—Italian, Spanish, Dutch, -South American, Frenchmen, or Danes. My only -fellow-countryman informed me that among other -complications he had come to Smyrna to arrange, he -has somehow to explain away the disappearance of -50,000 gallons of pure alcohol, sent from Cuba to -Smyrna <i>via</i> New York. The officials in New York had -helped themselves to the precious nectar, and sent the -cargo on to Smyrna, refilled with water! Such are -the trials of prohibition!</p> - -<p class='c012'>One and all, these men have but three topics of -conversation: (1) the senseless policy of Mr. Lloyd -George in sending the Greeks to Smyrna; (2) the -criminal desire of the Turks to abolish capitulations; -(3) the “probabilities” of likely successors to the deported -Greeks and Armenians in the business world. -It is assumed that Turkey cannot survive without the -assistance of some European power. The Turk is a -producer, not a merchant. The Italians affirm that -trade would flourish in a happier world if they were -given the vacancy. The Americans, however, dispute -this honour, whilst the Dutchman, supported by -a Dutch clergyman (born of French parents, but a -British subject, in the service of Holland, speaking all -three languages without an accent), declares the only -power that is “going to count” in Turkey is Great -Britain.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“In spite of her deplorable and ill-advised policy, -her inexplicable treatment of the Turks, her protection -of the Greeks (which has made <i>them</i> more arrogant and -destestable than ever), there is <i>something</i> in the British -national character which still commands respect and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>admiration. In six or eight months we shall see England -back in Turkey, stronger than ever. England is -<i>not</i> her government.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I believe he is right. There was a more practical -reason for his convictions than his deep affection for -his English wife.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Holding no brief for Mr. Lloyd George, I still -scorn these men of finance as cowards for their unmeasured -abuse of the Premier.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If you foresaw disaster so plainly,” I asked, -“why did you not protest?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Every Chamber of Commerce sent a petition to -Mr. Lloyd George,” was the reply, “which he put -into his waste-basket.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Naturally. As practical men, is that your idea -of a <i>protest</i>?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“One of our biggest men, Mr. Patterson, went to -the Paris Conference on our behalf.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Did he make himself heard? I assure you, if I -had <i>one</i> hundred pounds invested in this country, -instead of the hundreds of thousands your Scotsman -holds, the world would have heard something of <i>my</i> -visit to Paris!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You saw financial disaster and ruin ahead, yet -allowed yourselves to be talked into silence by M. -Venizelos!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Somehow, <i>these</i> men could not excite my pity. -They were themselves more to blame than Mr. Lloyd -George. With their huge financial backing, and vast -interests in Smyrna, it was actually in their power, and -theirs alone, to have kept out the Greeks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is a quaint result of my sense of justice that, -in the French Secret Service, I am known as “a niece of -Mr. Lloyd George.” When the brilliant one-time -<i>chef de Cabinet</i> of Monsieur Briand published his violent -attacks on Lord Robert Cecil and our late Premier, he -also printed my replies. “He did not,” he kindly -explained, “consider there was a word of truth in -what I said, but he was unwilling to thwart an Englishwoman!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Shortly after the appearance of my “defence,” the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>correspondent of a big newspaper in Chicago spoke of -“my uncle,” Mr. Lloyd George. I protested, “not -because I should not be proud of the relationship, -but because I happen to have no such claim.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Dear lady,” he replied, “don’t think I shall ever -want to spoil your little game.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Such a remark did not merit a serious answer, and -I allowed the matter to slide. I knew very well Mr. -Lloyd George would never lift a finger to help “his -niece,” for have I not four times appealed to him in -vain on matters of the greatest national importance? -Yet “his niece” will continue to defend him against -“unjust” attacks, and criticise him also.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Smyrna capitalists also did not love me because -I wrote: “The day is past when financiers can obtain -‘concessions’ for 500 Turkish pounds backshish -and then complain of the Turks for being amenable -to bribes. The happy day will never return when the -foreigner lived in Turkey without taxation, with next -to nothing to pay in rent, was charged one and sixpence -for a shooting licence, and had full control of money -and trade.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Turkey is now for the Turks, and the Capitalists -will have to recognise this or leave.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Never again will Smyrna become the Aliens’ Paradise -it once was. Would anyone, for example, have -dared to offer the trams provided for Smyrna to any -other nation but Turkey? Why were there not -electric trams, instead of these wretched horse-boxes -drawn by underfed ponies? And the compartment -reserved for Turkish women was not even separated -by a partition, but by a sheet that once perhaps was -white!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There are men in this town,” I wrote, “who would -plunge Europe into war, to bring back the dear old -lazy-going Turk who made so charming a background -for our novels and plays. They would restore him for -no higher purpose than to fill their purses at his -expense.” At least, I said to these merchants: “If -you cannot ‘love’ my whip, you know, in your heart -of hearts, that I have spoken the truth. You should -<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>have a mighty respect for me, and I ask for nothing -more.” The South American answered: “Every -word you say <i>is</i> true, and we <i>all</i> admire you for it.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Towards nightfall, however, my mind was occupied -by certain more personal anxieties. The Italian had -not yet even come to the hotel, and I could hear nothing -of him. I began to reproach myself with not having -attempted to extend the protection of my papers to him, -although, like the gentleman he is, he had already -refused my suggestion to that effect.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I could only apply, as a last resource, to the Vali’s -secretary, who at once took me to the Caracol (<i>i.e.</i>, the -“lock-up”), where we found my friend in company -with the Frenchman we had already been pitying for -his struggles with passports. Neither of these young -men were known in Smyrna; neither of them had -secured permission from Angora to land; neither of -them were personally known to their Consuls; neither -of them were able to speak a word of Turkish. They -could not explain themselves, and were, therefore, to -be kept under arrest till further inquiries could be -made.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“After all, in war-time did we not do worse things -than this?” I asked the enraged Frenchman, who was -declaring such treatment would make a <i>casus belli</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“When I was serving your country and travelling -to San Remo with a special letter of recommendation -from the French Minister of War, I was detained for -forty-eight hours at Mentone, because they considered -my ‘Plato’s Republic’ a proof of sympathy with the -Bolshevists.” I was able, however, with the secretary’s -willing assistance, to liberate both my fellow-passengers -without further delay.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Naim Bey gave me many special privileges, no -doubt as the result of prompting from the same quarter. -He sent me up breakfast in the mornings, though his -servants were all “Catholics” (<i>i.e.</i>, Armenians, under -the Papal protection), and did not know their job. -I never could understand how he contrived to supply -me with milk, as the Greeks had killed most of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>cows; but I was no less heartily grateful for his permission -to use the Spartelli library, and for the reading-lamp -which he borrowed for me from an American.</p> - -<p class='c012'>All these acts of kindness, however, were done with -such an appearance of ease that I even ventured upon -one more request.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Could I use the piano to accompany my Italian -friend?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He did not hesitate to banish the six occupants of -“mattresses” in the drawing-room from their domain -until we finished “La Tosca” and “Madame Butterfly.” -Then an American begged me to play the “Swannee -River,” and nearly broke down before he had even got -to the chorus.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Did I not tell you,” said the sympathetic Naim, -“Poor things, they are so far away from home!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I suppose I should not be too severe upon these -merchants among the ruins of their past glory, and, -to do them justice, they are accepting defeat like good -sportsmen. The Dutchman is as merry as a cricket, -despite his £80,000 “gone west,” his thirty years’ work -undone for ever, his fine farm burnt to cinders.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I wish he would make a book out of all he has seen -and done in this land of romance. No one knows it -better, and, if my own sympathies are apt to be with -the brigands from whom he has twice suffered capture -(because they only rob the rich), I have enjoyed few -men’s tales of adventure more than his. Good and -strong men are rare enough, and I know this one would -never forget a friend. If danger threatened, it would -only reach you over his dead body.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span> - <h2 id='ch06' class='c009'>CHAPTER VI</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>BRITISH CHIVALRY!—BRAVE WOMEN A NUISANCE!</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>“Women</span> are so absurdly brave,” said a charming -British official, “that is why they are such a nuisance.”</p> -<p class='c012'>He was seated at a small, improvised and over-crowded -bureau in one of the few remaining houses on -the Smyrna Quay. He had just sufficient of a Scotch -accent to make one see that he would stand no nonsense—an -asset, surely, in his position. Yet the -obvious and zealous concern for his own countrywoman -proved that, however carefully the calm exterior of -the Scot may hide his feelings, his heart beats strong -and true. He is no less proud, too, of his “women” -than any citizen of the States!</p> - -<p class='c012'>But this able and active young man, master of any -emergency at a crisis, could not accept my point of -view about the Nationalist Turk. That, certainly, -was not <i>his</i> fault, for who is there to interpret this -“new” people to him? He only knows that, for the -first time, Turks have dared to express themselves, and—like -brave women—are becoming a great nuisance! -Under the good Hamid, these lazy people were easy -enough to manage. “Turkey for the Turks!” What -a monstrous notion! Yet one feels, nay knows, that -he has plenty of intelligence, will face facts, and learn -to accept the inevitable.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Meanwhile, I, for my part, am throwing a most -unwelcome additional weight upon his already over-burdened -shoulders. He is clearly annoyed at my -having come so far, and, in his place, who would not -have felt the same?</p> - -<p class='c012'>But, unfortunately for him, he knows very well -<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>that a woman who, despite difficulties well-nigh insurmountable, -has been able to reach Smyrna without -a British viza, means to get her way and will not be -lightly driven back.</p> - -<p class='c012'>If only the man had adopted the bullying and supercilious -tone that becomes a uniform! One can so easily -meet the “correct” officialism, counter its attacks, -stand up to its incivility, and go one’s own way with a -clear conscience. But it was not to be with my Scotch -friend.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I admire your courage immensely,” he said with -a courteous grace, “but, pardon my asking, what is -the sense of it all?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I want to study ‘the movement’ at Angora, and -to see the national hero, M. Kemal Pasha.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Is it worth risking your life for that? Forgive -me, it does seem rather a wicked waste.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Outside his windows, on the calm waters of the -bay, rode warships of many nations. The bright sun -looked down, unkindly it almost seemed, upon the ruin -and desolation around us. The arms of England, France -and America were all there. Holland, he told me, -had begged in terror for the protection of a warship.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Terror of what?” I asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Have you not heard, can you not see, we are on -the brink of war? To-morrow you will be going home -with the others. Our Government has given orders -for the immediate evacuation of all our people. Later -you will receive final instructions, and be told the -meeting-place. This time it is war. There is no help -for it. It has to come.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He showed me a flashlight, well hidden in a corner -of that dilapidated office, which would send out its -news of “safety” when every Englishman had left -the town, and he, my friend, had followed them in a -boat with its oars muffled—if he were able to get away. -If not, well, he had done his duty!</p> - -<p class='c012'>But I remained unmoved. “Do not worry about -me. I have made all my plans, and shall start to-morrow -for Angora. I know the risks, and I know, -too, that all will be well for me.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>At first, evidently, his official mind suspected that -I was playing with his nerves, idly boasting of what -no one would seriously attempt. When convinced, -however, that I really meant what I said, he banged his -fist on the table and just shouted:</p> - -<p class='c012'>“By Jove, if you belonged to me, you should -<i>not go</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>How I hoped he had lost his temper! But no, -in another moment he was again all quiet concern, -courteously persuasive.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But,” said I, “I have reached here against long -odds. I have come entirely on my own responsibility, -and at my own expense. The Turks who met me here -will take care of me, not my family nor my Government. -Even war will not stop me.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And when there is war,” he replied, with a note -of almost despairing entreaty, “for as there is a God -above, it will come this time. Think of it! A woman -absolutely alone among the Turks; not a European to -help her. Six months, at least, in a concentration -camp, illness, perhaps torture. God knows what will -happen to you!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I shall not be put into a concentration camp, for -there will be no war. I am going to stop it!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was smiling now, which only added to his distress.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“My dear young lady,” he cried, “keep your -courage for some wiser, finer cause. Britain needs -you.... Seriously, you are not going, are you?—And -the war!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I shall nurse the British soldiers, or else return——”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You speak of the Turks as if you trusted them. -Is this wise?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Indeed, yes. I know them. The only way to -treat a Turk <i>is</i> to trust him. He has never yet let me -down. Why should he now? Even at this crisis -you will find there is no other way but trust with the -Moslem.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Of course he was not convinced.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Charming theories, but dangerous in practice; -above all, dangerous for you. Go home. You can -see your friends again when things are more settled. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>Don’t think I don’t admire your pluck; I do. In all -my experience I never met a woman ready for greater -risk; but we value you too much to let you go.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was a wearisome line of attack. I could so -much more easily have dealt with violence from a -would-be dictator. I tried again, hoping to silence a -busy man.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Please imagine you are an American,” I suggested, -“and that time is money.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Time is <i>not</i> money when a woman’s life is at -stake. Forgive me, your courage—which I shall never -forget—is immense, but you are not a sportsman!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What do you mean?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is not fair to us—Englishmen! What will -the Turks think of us, allowing it? They will have -a mighty poor opinion of British chivalry. And we -do not deserve it! Would they let one of <i>their</i> women -do such a thing? We, too, protect our women!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was losing ground, at least <i>that</i> appeal hurt; but -I could not yield.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You need not worry,” I replied, with more unconcern -than I could really feel at the moment. “I -will see that they understand. They <i>do</i> know how -England cares for her women; but they know me, -what a determined customer I am. They will not -blame you.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He played his last card, bashfully indeed, but with -a grim resolve that won my respect.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Dear lady, I have no wish to be personal, but -you have driven me to it. You are not—ugly enough -to undertake this journey.... Go and see the -British Navy you love so much. We will look after -the Turks, and you too. Come and see them when we -have finished with them.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I saw that I must not only be firm, but I must -speak, and speak plainly. “If any harm comes of it,” -I said, seriously enough, God knows, “it will be my -own fault. The Turk respects women who respect -themselves. Ten years ago I went to Asia Minor, -with a military escort, the only woman; but I was -absolutely safe all the time, everywhere.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>There was no more to be said. Discomfited, indeed, -by so much chivalry, I left him, intending, after all, to -wait and see if war were declared. But, fortunately, I -had given no promise, for to the Scotchman I knew -truth and honour were sacred things.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In justice to the official attitude, it should be clearly -said that no one could be expected to understand what -I should have given up had I returned to England, -under orders, with the rest of my compatriots.</p> - -<p class='c012'>What, after all, were the difficulties that I had overcome -in comparison with my real object—to reach -Angora? What matter if the family coffers, the purses -of my friends, and even editorial generosity, were one -and all closed against me? None should have on their -conscience that they had sent me to my death!</p> - -<p class='c012'>My contract with the newspaper! It was “deliver -the goods and your reward shall be handsome.” -The goods, indeed, are delivered and, in a fashion, -made public. They have not, however, been acknowledged -as “woman’s work,” and the reward seems -still far to seek!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I had not supposed that in journalism “the sex” -must suffer the double loss of justice and credit. The -articles were certainly not stamped with any plain -mark of a <i>feminine</i> special correspondent.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Unfortunately, we are not in Turkey! where -women’s achievements have still the “novelty” -that can command a fine flourish of trumpets, where -no cry has been needed of “equal work—equal pay!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Had I foreseen, should I then have returned to -punish ingratitude? I think not. At such a moment -I could not forego the most thrilling chapter of the -story that has held me for so many years; ever since, -indeed, I used to climb on the knee of the dear being -whose name I bear, to hear him tell of his journeyings -to those Eastern lands—Japan and China, India and -Moslem Turkey.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Many curious interpretations have been put upon -my interest in these peoples. The Turks themselves -have wondered how it came about.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is because they had been my friends long years -<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>before I ever set foot on their now familiar land. Its -colours, its beauty, its glorious summers and sunsets, -the fine thought and philosophy of its high-minded, -sober people, were known to me in the nursery, as -only a child can live in the imaginations stirred by -those it loves. They were always brothers to me, -the Orientals of India and Persia, Egypt, Arabia, and -Turkey. I would give much, indeed, to secure for -them the happiness they deserve for what they have -given to the culture and to the civilisation of the world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The stupidity of treating the Asiatic as an “inferior” -I could never understand. It is no less impolitic than -unjust. What a delight, in our century of semi-tones -and of commercialism, to talk with men like Tagore!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span> - <h2 id='ch07' class='c009'>CHAPTER VII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>SMYRNA—GOD’S WORK—THE EXQUISITE SUNSET—MAN’S WORK—WAR</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>I take</span> daily walks in Smyrna, with one of the Vali’s -officers, chiefly among the ruins. The European part -of the town (save for a few houses on the quay and a -few hospitals, schools, and churches) has simply ceased -to exist. The empty “shells” of what were once fine -streets are a great danger to passers-by and must all -be blasted.</p> -<p class='c012'>When I told my guide that from the deck of the -<i>Pierre Loti</i> the town showed scarcely a sign of fire, he -promptly led me—for eight hours—through the most -horrible <i>débris</i>! Instructed to treat me with great -respect, he marched steadily ahead with all the gravity -of a funeral mute. He had been told, moreover, to -reconstruct, as it were, the whole city for my information, -and he was obviously determined to overlook no -detail. He pointed out exactly how the fire had been -planned, and why it had broken out too soon. Passing -the Stores, he laid a finger upon the very spots marked -by grenades that Greeks and Armenians had thrown. -There was a grim disgust and disdain in his last comment: -“And all this <i>funniness</i> is supposed to have -been done <i>by us</i>!”—a strange use of the word funniness.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On another occasion, resting a moment among the -ruins of what had once been an altar, watching the poor -Turkish natives as they raked the <i>débris</i> for firewood, -we were suddenly surrounded by a most dismal procession -of limping cats and dogs, thin as boards, crying -with hunger and pain, homeless, maimed, and with -none to claim them or cherish their shrunken limbs. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>I suggested that we should buy a little ether and send -them to their long sleep. My companion was shocked -beyond words.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Poor beasts,” he exclaimed, “have not they as -much right to be on God’s earth as we? Who are -we that we should dare to cut short their existence?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Naturally I did what I could to express all the -sympathy his words aroused; determining, nevertheless, -in my own mind, that I would beg the Englishman or -the Italian to accomplish this errand of mercy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At the same time, the incident only further excited -my deep interest in the strange mentality of a people -who claim the full rights of existence even for maimed -cats and dogs, and are yet held guilty by the whole -world of massacring millions of Christians for mere -sport.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Later that day I was for the moment extremely -puzzled by the strange behaviour of all the inhabitants -within sight, which certainly seemed most <i>un</i>-Turkish. -“I have known your people for fifteen years,” I said -(only intending a mild joke), “and this is the first time -I have ever seen a Turk hurry! What is the matter?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They are going to blast the ruins,” was my -companion’s calm reply.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To my thinking it was, indeed, time to be off; -and I hopped away like the others, in and out among -the charred ruins, at one moment catching my heel, -at another tearing my skirt and coat. When, panting -and breathless, we at last reached comparative safety, -I laughingly asked my guide why he had given me no -warning. “You could have no idea whether I could -run like this at the last moment.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“His Excellency told me that you were to be -treated with the utmost respect,” was the solemn -reply!</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was true that the day before I had been informed -that it was forbidden to take photographs among the -ruins, and I at once closed my Kodak. But in the -evening an apology arrived from the Chief of Police.:—“I -might photograph, when and where I pleased.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I can only suppose my guide believed that “Allah -<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>would guard me” when the blasting began; at least, -whatever was to be my fate, he was ready to share it!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>We have been wandering about the muddy streets -of the bazaar, immortalised by Pierre Loti. It is -here, in these little Turkish booths—the tinker’s, -tailor’s, and shoemaker’s, the meat-man’s, the baker’s, -and the sweet-seller’s—that the inhabitants of Smyrna -must do their shopping to-day. How can we think -of Frank Street and its vast European “emporium,” -now no more than a smouldering heap of crumbling -ruins?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Town-planning is as yet unknown in Turkey. Here, -as elsewhere, the houses seem to be straggling upon the -hillside, forming an architectural patchwork far more -picturesque than the most correct symmetry.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We are now to ascend Mont Pegasus, and though I -hate climbing, the sunset panorama of an Eastern city -will reward a greater effort than this. To look on the -fading sunlight in all its glorious magnificence of purple -and scarlet and mauve, is to know we are in the presence -of God; and if ever the world needed His guidance, -it surely must seek Him now.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That,” I murmured, “is how God meant us to -find His world—a life of sunshine, a death of beauty. -No fear, no shrinking before what must come to all; -but His glory reflected about us, as the sun’s beauty is -reborn for us in the infinite, waiting sea.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Look up, and then turn your eyes down to -man’s work below our feet—black war, grey ruin and -desolation!”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>An English lady, Mrs. de C——, the widow of a distinguished -British Minister in Teheran and Bucharest, -has just given me a more level-headed and <i>fair</i> description -of the Smyrna fire than I have yet heard from -any other eye-witness. Her husband was manager of -the Aidin Railway, and had the luck to unearth a -unique collection of priceless antiques along the route. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>Tea was served in the entrance hall of their house in -the European quarter, one of the few still erect, which -reminded me of the British Museum. One could fancy -oneself among the treasures of the Parthenon, which -it has fallen to British hands to preserve.</p> - -<p class='c012'>She told me she owed her home to the wind’s -kindness. “We were on the roof all night, watching -its varying directions, although it did not come our -way until about 2.30 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> As the abandoned Greek -ammunition was all stored behind us, we could no -longer risk staying in the face of the wind. At the -same moment a flashlight from H.M.S. <i>Iron Duke</i> -began to play on the pier, and we realised that Admiral -de Brock was signalling for us to leave the town. -Pushing our way through a howling mob of men and -animals, we at last reached the waiting boat; but no -sooner were we on board than, to our relief, the wind -once more veered. There was a chance for one side -of the Smyrna Quay, on which stood the Aidin station.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In her judgment, the Turks acted throughout with -the greatest moderation. Everywhere in Anatolia -I found clear evidence that Greeks had indulged in -the worst type of barbarianism, amply sufficient to -justify any slight Turkish excesses that may have -occurred in Smyrna.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Since her Greek household had all departed, Mrs. -de C—— was very busy “about many things”—dusting, -sweeping, and cooking. Nor were her sympathies -very keen with the Greek refugees, to many of whom -she had extended hospitality. They had accepted a -night’s lodging, and then decamped with sheets, -blankets, pillows, towels, and clothes!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Lunch, however, had been served for her by a -“Catholic,” who cooked Turkish dishes to perfection. -“Catholic” is now the last word in “Nationality,” -covering a multitude of “pasts,” and saving -the “Christian” from having to answer awkward -questions.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The “Catholic” who waits on me at the hotel was -an upholsterer in quite a large way of business. The -sewing-woman, whom I have occasionally employed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>for odd jobs, though a Greek, is also “Catholic.” In -Angora these derelicts are self-styled “Catholic -Turks.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I have boarded the warship, despite the captain’s -fear of a woman’s pen. What would he find to say -about my <i>real</i> intentions? Most of us, happily, can -look on sailors of all nations, as I do, absolutely without -prejudice. For here, at least, none can capture -our laurels, and all the world loves a British sailor.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Amidst the beautiful fittings of his luxurious cabin, -I was received by the captain with every mark of the -courtesy that is second nature to the real English -gentleman. He was a naval man to his finger-tips, -stamped all over with Nelson’s magic call to “Duty.” -For his magnificent achievements in the war, his V.C. -was indeed richly deserved; and yet, I wondered, is -it the wisest policy to expose this <i>real</i> “personage” -to the kind of actually trivial irregularities which in a -town like Smyrna a too formal officialism may so -easily mistake for grave affronts to our national -prestige?</p> - -<p class='c012'>While in Smyrna I saw an example of such real -dangers—a mere nothing that might suddenly have -developed into a <i>casus belli</i>, though in this case any -serious disaster was, luckily, averted.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turks had given the sailors from different -warships special permission to land on the quay without -the formality of going through the Custom House. -Unfortunately, certain Armenian girls saw their chance -to coax the sailormen into helping them to escape. I -am told that the British were adamant to tales of woe -that turned Americans, French, and Italians to putty; -but I will not believe it, for I prefer to think our men -had their share in defying the law to help women.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turkish authorities, however, were, naturally -and properly, indignant at the deception, and gave -orders that in future everyone should land at the -Custom House. Most unfortunately, the order was -immediately carried out, without a warning to the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>captain. When that personage came ashore next -morning, therefore, he found himself confronted by an -Anatolian peasant, rifle in hand, who actually slipped -in an extra cartridge under the great man’s eye.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our consul, of course, intervened, and the captain, -with his sword drawn, was permitted to land, ample -apologies being tendered in due course by a repentant -Vali.</p> - -<p class='c012'>No more was heard of this incident; but with some -“big” men it would not have been allowed to end there.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I admit that a warning should have reached the -captain; but Turks are proverbially careless about -official details. It was just bad luck, too, that some -petty officer was not the first to land, who could have -borne the indignity without loss of prestige, and -“arranged” matters for his chief; but if we must -appoint our “best” men to such a post, someone -smaller should be sent in advance to spy out the land. -Friction is bound to occur between our experienced -officers, statesmen, or diplomats (above all, if their -sense of humour is not very keen) and the primitive -Anatolians of young Turkey. We should, surely, -have been well advised in this matter to follow the -French way of employing “middle men” for a time.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I love the casual freedom of Turkish customs, which -will suffer a train to be kept waiting for my private -comfort; but the characteristic may be extremely -trying on another occasion. Every virtue has its -pet vice!</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I visited Turkey after the Balkan war our -steamer somehow “missed” the mouth of the bay, -and no one remembered the exact position of the -mines! As a matter of fact, the <i>Senegal</i> was blown to -atoms only a few days ahead, and our own escape was -pure luck. There was considerable alarm on board, -and I was once more filled with gratitude for my own -small share of the fatalism of the Turk!</p> - -<p class='c012'>On this occasion, for my own private benefit, I -could also have wished that our captain had been a -“smaller” man, or one less scrupulously compact of -duty. When I admitted that I had really come on -<span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>board in search of a British flag, no matter how torn -and tattered, he only looked at me as though I were -mad.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You don’t seem to know much about the inner -workings of the navy,” was all he <i>said</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“One does not bother about the ‘inner workings’ -of anything one loves,” I answered.</p> - -<p class='c012'>So with the gravest courtesy he explained to me -that a new flag could not possibly be obtained until the -“tattered” one had been handed over to H.Q. Nevertheless -I believe that a French, Italian, or even an -American, captain would have contrived some means of -acceding to my request.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As it happens, I once saw the man off his guard. He -was playing the host to a beautiful Englishwoman and -her French husband, his neighbours on their own yacht, -and no one could have seemed more naturally genial -and light-hearted, with his really delightful sense of -humour. Is it <i>necessary</i> for a uniform to conceal all -traces of humanity? Why could not the world see -the man’s best side in the officer? The strictest sense -of “fair play,” combined with great patience, will -work even better with the Turks when added to a -generous supply of smiles and wit.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>When the Vali sent word that all was ready for me -to proceed on my way to Angora, I could not hesitate. -Whatever my compatriots may have said, and would, -no doubt, have now repeated with greater emphasis, -I could not think of having allowed him to take so -much trouble on my account for nothing!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Above all, particularly towards a Moslem, the last -thing that any lady could think of doing would be to -betray the slightest lack of trust. What matter if we -were on the brink of war? It simply never entered -my head that I could really come to any harm from -the Turks!</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is of interest, nevertheless, to put on record the -various, not altogether unreasonable, warnings that -I received at the hotel in Smyrna from my fellow-guests. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>One and all were quite convinced that I had taken leave -of my senses. Only a mad woman would think of -going to Angora at this season and on the brink of -war!</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The Spaniard</i> had spent his life in the Near East -and knew the Turks! “Your own friends,” he said, -“the Ministers who know you, may show you the -greatest respect; but you are English and cannot -speak the language. The <i>people</i> are mere fanatics!” -However, he gave me a box of insect powder, a bottle -of iodine, and—most welcome of all to me—a yard of -flannel to make an abdominal belt!</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>One Italian</i> implored me to “come back and enjoy -the Italian skies.... You will freeze in Angora.” -He gave me a packet of chocolate and half a bottle of -cognac.</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>A Second Italian</i> could only endeavour to “face -the fact” that I was determined to have my way. As -he knew something of where I was going, he brought me -quinine, asperin, mosquito-cream, and calomel.</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The Dane</i> was horrified to learn that I had no gold. -“Gold is essential in war-time. Gold saved my life -in Russia;” and he handed me in exchange for paper -fifty gold Turkish pounds, which, however, proved more -weighty than useful.</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The Dutch Parson</i> gave me his blessing. Though -generally optimistic and pro-Turk, he admitted that -things looked unusually black at the moment, and -advised me to “wait and see.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>A British Naval Officer</i> would not admit the sarcasm -of his comment that it was “very interesting” of me -to “go to Angora!” He considered “the Turks -the finest race on the face of the earth.... My God, -they know what I mean!” And, personally, I believe -they knew very well.</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>One American</i> could only repeat that “it was a mad -idea.... We are not safe even here. There is -plenty of oil there, certainly, but—heroics <i>is</i> heroics!”</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>A Second American</i> wanted to know “what they -were giving me for this stunt,” and guessed “it was a -pretty high figure.” That I was going on my own -<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>responsibility and paying my own way he “simply -would not believe.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The South American</i> was the first of them all to -express any confidence that the Turks would be kind. -What <i>he</i> dreaded for me was the discomfort. “Above -all,” he said, “avoid the Red Army.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The Englishman</i> characteristically pinned his faith on -the courage of our race. “It has brought you here,” -said he, “and I believe it will bring you back.... Here -is my woollen jacket, a tin of milk, and this -letter to an American friend of mine. Promise me, if -<i>ever</i> you are in difficulty, you will seek his help.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I afterwards made inquiries about this invaluable -ally, though I was, fortunately, in no danger. I found -that, after all, he never reached Angora, though he -had applied to go there last March!</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>A Third Italian</i> told me that he had just found a -little silver St. Antoine de Padou among the ruins.... “My -prayers for you will go with it always. After the -snows of Angora, our Italian sunshine, its songs and -its laughter, will await you.” Besides the St. Anthony, -he gave me a book of Italian proverbs, a box of insect-powder, -cough-drops, and chocolate.</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The Frenchman</i> only exclaimed: “No Angora for -me, <i>merci</i>! I am counting the hours until the boat -arrives to take me away from all this.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The Englishwoman</i> (Mrs. de C——) felt proud to -think of the “feather in a woman’s cap,” that such an -adventure would surely prove.</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>The Dutchman</i> declared that he would trust even -his own daughter on such a journey, if “the Vali had -pledged his word for her safe conduct.... I know this -country inside out—its language, its dangers, its -possibilities, its virtues and faults.... You may trust -the Vali.... If war breaks out, they will take you, -with all possible politeness, to the nearest frontier.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He gave me all kinds of useful information, and -much-needed boxes of matches and cigarettes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Truly a wonderful budget of advice and a most -original collection of gifts! Did ever a woman thus -start such a quest?</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>Yet they had made me sad! Some were born here, -others had lived in the country all their lives, and how -few of them would trust the Turk, to whom, after all, -they owed, at least, their material existence.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I will show you,” I said, as we were all assembled -for farewell, “that I am right, and you are <i>all</i> wrong. -Though my country may turn on Turkey, she will be -good to me.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>It was nearly seven o’clock next morning before -the officer came for me. It was so late that our horses -had to be whipped up to a smart pace over the bumpy -road to the station. My conductor had been so anxious -about all arrangements, that he had packed the food -for our five or seven days’ trip, and entrusted it to a -chauffeur, who was perverse enough not to wake up -in time.</p> - -<p class='c012'>This certainly might be regarded as an omen of ill-luck, -and even as I got into the train, between the -officer and a cheik (who had been professor of Arabic -at Oxford), the South American stepped forward to -ask whether, after all, I had not better return with -him.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And show the Turks I do not trust them.... Never. -Besides, this gentleman has lived in Oxford, -and is therefore almost a compatriot. Tell my friends -in Smyrna that I am perfectly well and happy, and -that I am going to have a lovely time.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I saw that both my conductors were greatly pleased -by my expressions of trust, which they well knew how -to appreciate.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Nevertheless, when we had been driving along the -quay and my eyes had fallen on our own man-of-war -flying the Union Jack without which, for the first -time in my life, I was embarking upon my perilous -way, I was not far from tears.</p> - -<p class='c012'>My thoughts were crowded with all that England -has ever meant to me, from the quiet corner in the -churchyard where my father is sleeping, to the little -face, seldom innocent of jam, that looks up so -<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>eagerly to tell his “Auntie” he has been a naughty -boy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Shall I, indeed, soon find myself in an “enemy” -country, which surely should be, as I have always -known it, the land of my England’s dearest friends?</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span> - <h2 id='ch08' class='c009'>CHAPTER VIII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>EMOTIONS AND IMPRESSIONS—“ON THE WAY.”—NOWHERE TO HOUSE THE POOR PEOPLE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>It</span> was, indeed, a kindly Providence that led the -cheik to accompany us upon this stage of my tour. -No one could have been more polite and thoughtful, -more ready to gratify my every wish at great personal -sacrifice, than the officer from Smyrna. But he had -not been at Oxford; he could not speak our language -with the distinguished accent of that University; -above all, he had not the vast culture of this man of -God. His information would have been conveyed in -German, a language I speak with <i>no</i> pleasure.</p> -<p class='c012'>The cheik has large brown eyes, a dusky skin, -and a face which, though stamped with suffering, is -kindness itself. He wore a long grey coat and turban, -and appeared to me at that moment years older than -his actual age. Maybe my inborn veneration for -Oxford professors misled me; and no doubt I was also -influenced by the obvious respect of the many hoary-headed -disciples who came to the station to bid their -“Master” farewell, bending to kiss his hand and -receive his blessing. Great erudition, again, must -always add to a man’s appearance of age, and his -allusions to varied experiences in many a Moslem land -did certainly suggest the passing of years.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Like myself, however, he was going to Angora for -the first time, venturing behind the long line of -bayonets which still separates that troubled land from -the rest of the world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In complete sympathy with my admiration for -these men who had suffered and been victorious, he was -<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>eager to learn a little of the tribulation through which -they had fought their way to liberty and freedom.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It seems to me,” I began, “that were I the British -High Commissioner, I should have found some means -of, at least, paying a visit to Angora. What do our -legislators yet know about this land under their charge, -for which they have been made responsible? They -can have no idea of the people’s aims, their faults and -their virtues. You might as well take charge of some -province in heaven of which you only know that it -exists.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There is not a Turk to-day who would not welcome -you as British High Commissioner,” was the -gallant reply. “We are, indeed, deeply grateful for -your trust. You have found the key to unlock Moslem -hearts—to <i>trust</i> us.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Surely it is with nations as with individuals, the -man who trusts and is deceived will yet prevail over -his deceiver, whatever temporary profits that traitor -may grasp. There can be no final conquest over -truth. That was my late father’s teaching, and if -it has sometimes left me an easy prey to liars and -thieves, it has not killed my faith in human nature or -hurt my pride. Self-respect will always compel me -to treat every man as my friend.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As we proceeded on our journey, one felt hourly -more conscious of the barrier that has been so -unwisely set up between the Allies and Angora. As -railway and telegraphic communications had been cut -off, news was not only delayed, but distorted beyond -recognition. One only marvels that some grave -disaster has not arisen from such confused reports, -apparent contradictions, stern threats, and frequent -misunderstandings. It would seem as if the Allied -Commissioners had no desire to keep in touch with this -“little Republic of the Mountains.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In all my wanderings I have never experienced -such an overpowering sense of isolation. For me there -have been no “personal” communications from Europe -since October. That “English letters are not accepted -in Anatolia,” that all my friends’ news will be returned -<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>to them marked “Service suspended” or “cannot be -reached,” may explain the facts but does not make -them easier to bear. When homeless dogs howl and -whine outside my bedroom window, superstitions will -intrude—dread of disaster to distant friends.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is, however, another and far more cheering -side to our experiences on the road. The “stranger -within the gates” is still a sacred person to these -peasants, even although from an “enemy” land. There -was absolutely no sign of hostility all along the line, -but everywhere the greatest kindness. One and all -gave me the gracious Eastern welcome, in picturesque -phrases, commending me to the care of Allah; these -“fanatics” from whom mere murder was the smallest -evil I had been told to expect!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Though we had started, through no fault of our -own, without any provision for food, I did not anticipate -any serious inconvenience on this account. In -these hospitable countries I knew we had only to name -our need. The cheik, indeed, had been presented -with two large baskets of food by his disciples, and -also carried a picturesque terra-cotta water-pot, which -he could refill whenever we stopped to alight.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Eat, my children,” said he, “and when all is -finished, the Lord will provide.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What a feast from the Song of Solomon,” I -exclaimed, as the contents of his basket were disclosed—pomegranates, -spices, nuts, helva (i.e., honey -and nut-cheese), raisins, and bread!</p> - -<p class='c012'>One is grateful for these slow trains that afford such -ample opportunity for seeing the country, with its -fig-trees, olives, and palms, and the bright sun bringing -a climate that recalls the South of France. Yet -everywhere, long before we reached the actual devastations, -one felt that despair and sadness were hovering -over the land. At first, we sought in vain for the reason -of our impressions. Then suddenly I knew: There -were no cattle.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Of course, Mrs. de. C—— had told me, they had all -been brought into Smyrna by the Greeks. Outside her -house mules were being sold for fourpence or sixpence -<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>apiece, and if no purchaser could be found even at that -figure, the wretched creatures were left mutilated on -the wayside, their eyes burnt out, their legs broken -by hatchets!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our first halt was at Manissa, once a flourishing -town of about ninety thousand inhabitants, standing -some sixty-five kilometres above sea-level. The -Governor and all the “notables” were on the platform -to welcome the travellers, and had arranged -that the “train should wait,” for us to be shown -round.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Some kind of most primitive carriage had been -produced from somewhere, and we were driven through -more “ruins” to the “temporary” town hall for -the inevitable coffee and cigarettes. In the best -English, the governor told us of Greek atrocities and -the victory of M. Kemal Pasha, introducing us also to -his whole staff.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I asked whether it would be possible for me to -obtain precise figures of the devastations, and he -promised they should be prepared for my use at once. -When I reminded him of the “waiting” train, he -merely waived such difficulties aside as a “secondary -consideration,” begging me “not to mention it.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Naturally, I found one ruined town very like another. -There was, in a sense, little to see beyond “parts of” -the mosques, badly scorched or half-burnt minarets, -and, at Manissa, no more than one thousand houses -standing out of fourteen! Also, the statistics reveal -a heartrending loss of life!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The women and children, I learnt, had been -driven into the mosques, which were surrounded by -machine-guns to ensure against any possibility of -escape, and <i>then</i> set on fire. As the full realisation -of such hideous barbarity took hold of my imagination, -it was as if all my senses were paralysed. That -cold perspiration which so often precedes a faint, -seized my limbs. I was powerless either to speak or -move. How would our twentieth century appear to -the old cave-dwellers it has pleased us to call savage? -Mrs. de C—— was right, indeed, to say that the Turks -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>were “moderate.” Such scenes must compel revenge -and let loose the worst passions of men.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On our return the cheik tactfully endeavoured to -distract our thoughts by hospitable preparations for -lunch. However little one felt disposed to eat, he -could have devised no kinder or more wise expression -of sympathy and understanding. Unfortunately, we -had not yet escaped the company of swarming flies, -which afterwards vanished, however, with startling -completeness, when the train climbed into colder -altitudes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our next halt was at Kassaba, where the “notables” -again paid us a visit, offering <i>both</i> coffee and tea, one -after the other. When the cheik mentioned the loss -of our food, <i>and</i> my partiality for fruit, a messenger was -at once sent into the town for bread and the most -luscious melons, which reach to the highest possible -perfection in Anatolia. I have always been grateful -for Turkish fruit!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Governor told me “he had simply <i>nowhere</i> to -house the poor people.” He “dare not think” of -how they could pass the winter! I <i>saw</i> them, sitting -in holes among the ruins, cooking whatever they had -been able to scrape together for a meal; the women -huddled together in the “beds” of fountains which -were covered with straw and carpets, after the water -had been drained out. This arrangement permitted -the slight protection of an awning, only too badly -needed for their threadbare clothes!</p> - -<p class='c012'>There seems no way of coping with the emergency, -since they had no tools for even the most primitive -building. Except for those lucky enough to secure one -of the few booths in the town, the shopkeepers had to -set out their stock upon the cobblestones!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I dare not ask how many babies had died of cold. -Anatolia has been bled white through twelve years of -war! Whatever the nation’s quarrel, it was from -hence were taken father, or brother, or son. Yet still, -beside these shivering women, you see long train-loads -of more soldiers, cattle-trucks full of human beings, -called to some new “front.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>How is it these women can, even now, tenderly hush -“the cry of the children,” and give their men? Theirs -is a “willing” sacrifice for an ideal, the freedom and -independence of the Fatherland.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I had been “protected” in advance, I found, by -the authorities, who had announced by telegram the -arrival of “an American lady.” It was, perhaps, -perverse, even ungrateful, but I persisted in contradicting -the news at every stage. I would far sooner -take all risks under my own flag than falsely accept -shelter beneath the “Stars and Stripes.” “I have no -dislike for America,” I assured those who assumed that -explanation of my obstinacy, “it simply does not -happen to be my country, any more than India is -yours.... I have nothing but good to say of individual -Americans; the most charming people on the -face of the earth.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Nevertheless “I keenly resent the clamour of -Mr. Morgenthau for ‘an ideal republic of his own -making on the banks of the Bosphorus, to be backed -by all that “Tammany” means in the U.S.A.’ I am -for asking him, then, to start by making an ‘ideal’ -republic on the banks of the Hudson.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>American oil-hunters are always boasting that <i>they</i> -never declared war on Turkey. “You did not,” I -have admitted, “but you urged, nay begged and -almost ordered, us to do it for you.... Your <i>Literary -Digest</i> printed at least one eloquent appeal to Great -Britain for a ‘holy’ war against the ‘unspeakable -Turk’!” And if they resent my protest at being -called “an American,” I am convinced they would -have done the same in my place. They, too, have the -virtue of national pride.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The train was held up once more for a little excursion -to what had been the prosperous town of -Alaşehir, a well-wooded district with abundance of -fresh water. Here out of four thousand eight hundred -<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>houses only one hundred remain, and the women and -children have been simply wiped out! Unfortunately, -we had not time to visit the Hodja, who had found a -quite comfortable lodging in the trunk of an oak tree—a -philosopher and a man of letters. “I cannot live -in a tub, like Diogenes, because I do not possess a tub; -but there is nothing wrong with this oak, which -I suspect will prove even warmer.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Everywhere, at Manissa and Kassaba—even at -Salihli, with its houses reduced to four!—we were -invited to stay and “put up for the night!” Here -were about two hundred inhabitants surviving from -two thousand five hundred, and from fifteen to twenty -families sleeping in the mosque. Yet, they would -“certainly arrange something,” and it needed all my -tact to refuse any more extended hospitality than tea -and coffee, served on the roof of one of their four houses, -from which we could look down upon the skeleton -town. Apparently, these stricken people found some -sort of comfort in the mere idea of my having <i>seen</i> -their suffering, though often enough I could not even -find <i>words</i> for the sympathy no one could fail to feel.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Once more lunch in the train. Pomegranate seeds -should be eaten one by one, a slow process, but as the -cheik says “it passes the hours!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He apologised for the number of times I had been -reminded of what in Turkey they call “the work of -the British ex-Premier.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I had to expect that,” I replied, “when I came -to Anatolia; and it gives me the chance of reminding -the Turks what part was played by M. Venizelos!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He tactfully turned the conversation to Oxford, -paying a very high tribute to Mr. Asquith’s brilliant -son: “A noble character, highly intelligent and broad-minded. -A victim of war we could ill afford to lose!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Association inevitably led to the question I must -have been asked a hundred times during my journey, -“Why does Lloyd George hate us so bitterly? How -can he admire the Greeks?”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>“He knows little of either,” I replied, “nothing, at -any rate, from personal observation of them in their -own lands. We have first-class Near-East specialists, -no doubt; but his chief informants have been nonconformist -preachers, even more biassed than he. -Nonconformity is the traditional foe of the Turks. -Their boasted ‘freedom of thought and conscience’ -does not extend to the Servants of the Prophet, -and as they once echoed Gladstone, to-day they echo -Lloyd George.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And in America?” asked the cheik.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Their church is an advertising agency. They -have transformed ‘dissent’ to a ‘trust.’ Go to the -States with an idea, and, if it pleases them, they will -‘put it across’ like any other commodity, as a ‘cute’ -business proposition. With a colony of two million -Greeks, and, maybe, as many Armenians (whose -exaggerated and unchecked ‘lamentations’ have full -Free-Church support), America will never give Turkey -even a fair hearing. You have read their ‘Press’?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Alas,” he answered, “I fear the East is losing -its faith in the West.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do not say that,” I answered. “Men like you, -who have known us at our best, must declare that -to-day’s madness is but a phase. Tell us these things -should never have been and shall not continue. Write -as you <i>can</i> write, and teach the people of Europe to be -once more themselves.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“When East and West shake hands again, there -will be peace, and peace we <i>must have!</i>”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span> - <h2 id='ch09' class='c009'>CHAPTER IX</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>MORE IMPRESSIONS—“SITTING AMIDST AN ARMY OF SUPPOSED SAVAGE FANATICS, DEBATING THE GREATNESS OF GOD”</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>The</span> train is slowly crawling up the heights, the air -grows colder and colder, we put on wrap after wrap, -and, all of a sudden, not a fly to be seen!</p> -<p class='c012'>The scenery, meanwhile, seems more desolate at -every mile we pass. The horribly systematic destruction -has overlooked nothing, and every village is in -ruins. The corn, so carefully hidden in pits, has been -burned; the water, on which life itself depends, -has been polluted; the peasants are vainly digging in -search of the hard-earned paper money, savings which -they had buried beneath the soil, only to turn up a -few black cinders! Even the trees have been nearly all -razed to the ground.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is nothing you can tell me about the “devastated -areas” in France, for I have visited every inch -of the ground; but there the people could move on -to the next villages, and were not imprisoned among the -ruins. I would not minimise German atrocities, but -they did not fill the churches with women and children -before firing them! The wholesale destruction of -villages and of cattle is not “legitimate warfare,” -but this butchering of women has put the Greek outside -the pale of civilisation.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They have left us the sunset,” I could only -murmur, “this marvellous panorama of which one -never tires.” The desolation, indeed, lends it a double -wonder. Why cannot men, too, die in glory?</p> - -<p class='c012'>The railway line has been cut at Gunhani. Here, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>no doubt, the Governor has been instructed not only -to welcome us with every comfort—tea, coffee, and -statistics—but to find us beds which do not exist!</p> - -<p class='c012'>We are travelling in the dark, since the sun has -deserted us. Every now and again the officer flashes -out his little electric lamp to see that all is well. The -feelings of my fellow-passengers must be murderous, -for have I not kept the train waiting all along the line, -so that we are even later than normal Turkish management -would have made us? But I can detect no -black looks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In the pitchy darkness, as the train slows down for -the last time, before its immediate “return” journey, -ragged figures are seen crowding the station. Their -turbans are brightly coloured, despite the dirt and rain -to which they have been exposed; their clothes are -mere “shreds and patches”; they have fashioned -themselves picturesque slippers of straw. Like the -grotesque figures of some stage chorus from no man’s -land, they dart about us on every side, each man seizing -upon some one article of luggage. If I express anxiety -about my possessions, the cheik bids me “fear not. -God is with us. All is well, and in a short while we -shall remember this discomfort but as a page of history.” -It was a lesson against worry I never forgot—the -secret of Islam’s suffering in silence!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Stumbling over a stony and dangerous roadway, -we at last reach a tent on the side of the mountains, -which has been prepared for us by the reserve officers. -We must sit on the cheik’s trunks and prayer-carpets, -for the ground is damp and mists enfold us. My chivalrous -friend insists on wrapping about me his shawl, -his scarf, finally his long coat. “I do not feel the cold -as you do,” he declares as I try to protest; but the -touch of his hand contradicts the kind words.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In the distance we could see a few hill-fires and -the torches of night-wanderers as we enjoyed our -evening meal. But no sooner had I begun to wonder -how many hours must pass before our experience -became history, than, behold, a gust of wind tore up -the prop of our tent and buried us in confused <i>débris</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>There was nothing for it but to extract ourselves -and sit <i>upon</i> instead of <i>beneath</i> the shelter that had been -found for us. The cheik bravely proceeded to delight -me with all the wisdom of his religious philosophy -while the officer went in search of help. I have done -strange things in strange lands, but I wonder what -would British “authority” say to this? An unarmed, -but fearless, Englishwoman in the damp, cold mists, -waiting through the dark night for her “discomfort to -become history,” amidst an army of supposed savage -fanatics, and debating the greatness of God! Truly, -the Unknown bears strange offspring.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Little darts of light, no bigger than glowworms, -are now everywhere moving up and down the steep -paths through the black mist.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is not easy for the swiftest of native messengers -to track the “hidden” official of the mountains. Yet -they seem to slip over the dark ways like birds, carrying -their message and returning while you are wondering if -they have yet started upon the road. Men have been -despatched, like carrier-pigeons, in all directions, and -we soon hear that the commandant, two hours away, -has set out to find us, and we are to walk as far as we -can to meet him.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Once more the long procession, carrying its shawls -and cushions, bags and water-pots, is marching in -hope of a night’s repose. In a little, however, from -somewhere, “orders” come in to “halt, and prepare -the lady a bed.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Behold, it is done. Two boxes are found to support a -wooden plank, <i>beneath</i> which the cheik will find some -measure of rest for his weary limbs, though he has -given me his prayer-mat for mattress, his attaché-case -for a pillow and, against my express command, -nearly all the wraps in his possession. Under such -conditions one does not “undress” for the night; -but rather contrives every possible addition to the -number of thick woollen garments normally required -in these climes. The officer has not even a rug to -protect him from the damp earth, and I find words -strong enough to resist the loan of his coat.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>Alas! I am not, after all, a true Eastern. My -philosophy will not bring sleep. Never since the days -when the awful stream of gassed men were being carried -into the hospital, have I listened to such a terrible -chorus of coughs. There is little enough “quiet in -sleep” on these saturated clay mounds, although I -no longer hear the Nationalist Anthem and other -patriotic strains, to the accompaniment of a piping flute, -which had been rising about me in the evening air.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Probably the cold that seemed almost beyond -endurance, did not really master me for long, as all -these numbing horrors were lost in unconsciousness -before the dawn.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I am awakened at last by the officer who ventures -to “shake the sleeper,” being seriously alarmed, he -tells me, by my pale looks. There is a most welcome -glass of hot tea, and a fire! A mingling of German -and Turkish assail my ears, while from the distance -I hear a silver voice calling the “faithful” to prayer. -Here is a free translation from the cheik, of the -muezzin’s words: “Get up, you lazy fellows, rise, -make your ablutions, and praise God for His goodness.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I can only repeat “praise God,” though in face of -what we have seen even these words seem almost -mockery.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“God is great,” said the holy man, “but man will -not understand His greatness. God loves the East, -whence came thought, philosophy, and faith. The -Christ we, too, venerate, came from the East. Yet -the West has given us nought but injustice. You -who love the East, pray for tolerance and understanding -between all peoples.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The muezzin has awakened all the soldiers in the -mountains. One could fancy a scurry of rabbits from -the hidden tents. They are fetching water for the -ablutions, and I, too, must wash me—in eau de Cologne. -The blood flowing into my numbed limbs forces a cry -I cannot stifle. “That is what happens when a -woman goes out to war,” I said with a laugh, for the -officer confessed that I had given him some anxious -moments.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>Yet another cup of tea outside the now stifling tent, -over the exquisite violet-tinted fumes of a charcoal -fire—deadly poison, maybe, but harmless so long as you -do not <i>know</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The ablutions, a religious rite, are performed here -in couples—one pouring the water into the other’s -hands, that he may wash his face three times, carefully -going over the ears, eyes, nose, and mouth. When he, -in his turn, pours the water for his companion.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The cheik tells me Moslem custom demands the -body <i>must</i> be clean, though the clothes may not -be free from dirt. If only the morning “ablutions” -were part of our Christian creed, what a difference -they would make to the comfort, <i>par exemple</i>, of -Naples!</p> - -<p class='c012'>All now lay down their “carpets,” and proceed to -prayer. To-day, indeed, many must manage with the -bare earth. What an inspiring picture it is—the -absolutely unselfconscious absorption of the humble -and prostrate Turk before his God! There is, surely, a -sense of shame to the true Christian for some of his own -brethren in the sight of reverence so natural and so -devout.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>My enthusiasm, unfortunately, does not extend to -the steaming dish of most sustaining breakfast-soup, -compounded of flour and vinegar and egg. One or two -sips of the tonic are enough a send me to dry bread -and a glass of tea—about my tenth since dawn!</p> - -<p class='c012'>All around us, though not yet in their uniforms, -are scattered the future soldiers of the new Citizen -State, ready and eager, poor fellows, for their fifty -miles march a day, on coffee and bread, or even on -bread and water!</p> - -<p class='c012'>By what right do we ask such things from the -sons of women? That, cut off from every pleasure, -all joy in God’s world, they should spend their days in -war and prayer! They seem happier, somehow, -than those of us who have travelled and seen the world, -who must think and judge for ourselves, wondering -<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>at last what is Truth or Justice, where are the profits of -self-sacrifice? Love and joy are, after all, but the -“negatives” of grief and hate. Abolish the dark -couple, and you will gain the light.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For the moment, however, the soldiers of to-morrow -are content. They have never tasted alcohol; miserably -clad, without proper clothing or shelter, they sit -about us expressionless and resigned—singing hymns -of joy that sound far more like a funeral dirge. There -is no need for thought, since they are ready to die -for their fatherland, their leader, their faith.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet, though they know I come from an “enemy” -country, there is no kindness and consideration they -will not extend to a woman who trusts them. Where is -the Bolshevism of those who have lifted me over every -step of mud, and are even now girding their loins to -carry me onwards for forty miles? Will <i>they</i> massacre, -who, at my bidding, would lay them down for me to -walk over were I to make such an idle request? -Fear belongs to those <i>responsible</i> for England’s injustice. -They, indeed, among these people, <i>would</i> be torn -limb from limb and trampled on unto death.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We have no horses or anything on four legs to -draw the loaded wagonette, that must now carry the -cheik and myself, in addition to its usual cargo of -food and varied wrappings. I have, certainly, had -“smarter” escorts than the men now drawing our -“equipage,” but never any with kinder hearts.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is no thought here of payment for service. -Money is firmly refused; and from those who have, -and seek, absolutely nothing for themselves, such a -welcome could not fail to touch the most callous of -human beings. How is it that all Europe declares -no one can “manage” these simple folk? My own -receipt for life with the Moslem—of mere courteous -consideration and unquestioning trust—has been repaid -with compound interest a thousand times!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span> - <h2 id='ch10' class='c009'>CHAPTER X</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>A JOURNEY ON FOOT—A COUNTRY MADE BY GOD, UNTOUCHED BY MAN</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>It</span> is not given to many in this enlightened twentieth -century to travel in a country as God made it, almost -untouched by man. Upon the road from Gunhani -I saw no signs of man’s handiwork, save a few miles of -Deacoville, a tunnel, and the primitive carts of Anatolia. -These are made from a few logs nailed together, and -fastened to two wheels, cut solidly out of a block of -wood. Their continuous squeak does not seem out of -keeping with the primitive surroundings, and may be regarded -as an “accompaniment” to the peasant’s songs.</p> -<p class='c012'>The story is told of a “benevolent” American -whose imagination was fired by the project of turning -this land into a “new America.” He would subject -the fertile soil to “intensive” cultivation and smother -it with sky-scrapers. So he persuaded a Turk to come -over to “God’s own country” (as man has made it) -and study the United States.</p> - -<p class='c012'>His guest, however, refused to admire, took passage -for home at the earliest possible opportunity, and -informed his friends that, “having now seen man’s -‘best’ country, he would never again leave God’s.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Nevertheless, in the Western mind these wide -stretches of waste land among the beautiful mountains, -beneath a cloudless sky, cannot fail to rouse a -longing to break the silence by a “little emptying of -our crowded towns.” The women and old men <i>are</i> -digging, sowing, and cultivating, with but slight return -for their heavy labour; now that the young are all -“wanted” for defence.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>“One day we <i>shall</i> have peace,” said I to our carriers, -and they murmured “<i>Inch Allah!</i>” Turning my wish -to prayer, I could only repeat, “We <i>shall</i> have peace.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As often as I can persuade them to rest, I seize the -chance of telling them about England. When I -mention our great Moslem King George they naturally -confuse him with Lloyd George. And, later, “if your -King loves his Moslem subjects, as you say he does, -why does he permit his Minister to remain?” I assure -them that he will not, and their faces brighten as -they cry: “There will be peace, then.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As we plunge into the tunnel, about a kilometre -long, our men raise strange howls which echo around -us with the most weird effect; but we are in darkness -that can be felt, and anyone coming unwarned in an -opposite direction, which is <i>downhill</i>, could scarcely -avoid a crash. As it happens, there is an engineer on -the line. Our men lift off his wagonette and replace -it, further down, than ours.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I marvelled that they had sufficient strength for -the job, living on coffee and bread. Meanwhile, our -flashlight revealed Turkish ladies walking along the -tunnel without a glimmer of light to guide them, who -made their way by a continuous beating of sticks upon -the wall.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In this strange land, one is not afraid! I think of -all the alarm my journey excited in Smyrna, and am -more than ever convinced that I <i>only</i> need an interpreter. -If I knew the language, I would go alone and -without fear! Primitive people in Turkey have a -high code of honour. They would not steal a penny, -they will not even accept what I offer to pay. Though -he would tear to pieces an enemy of his country, the -Turk would stand between me and danger, for he -knows I am a friend.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At last we are out of the tunnel, stretching our legs -with relief in the open air. Suddenly a strange sound -breaks on our ears from the mountains. As we stop to -listen, we hear someone calling upon us to “Halt! -You must go no further!” I remember—this day, -they had told me, there would be “war”! A strange -<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>figure seems to be hopping down the mountains, about -800 metres in height, which proves to be the <i>Commandant -de la Place</i>. He had arrived at our tent very late -the night before, and left me a “message of welcome.” -Is he now bringing the terrible news the war has -begun? No. Only offering us hospitality.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He had not expected us to start so early, and -apologised for “calling in his nightgown”—the only -alternative to letting us pass his “inhospitable doors.” -I begged that I might take a photograph, and, leaving -all our belongings upon the wayside, we readily set out -to climb the mountain, while he shouted the news of -our approach to hasten the preparations of his wife. -As a matter of fact, the difficulties of the ascent were -quite sufficient to give her ample time; and when we -reached the house at last, the pure, fresh air (that -struck cold in spite of the brilliant sunshine) inspired -a hearty welcome to “rest” after so stiff a climb!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The commandant (who is richly bronzed by outdoor -life in the sun) seemed quite content with his two-roomed -cabin among the hills, though one could sense -the tragic experiences he would never obtrude. Three -of his children had perished from cold and hardship, and -I caught anxious glances towards the two remaining, -fine, sturdy-looking little creatures as they were. His -mother-in-law, busily intent on grinding the corn, -bore further witness to their hidden struggles.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was immediately given a chair; a mattress was -found for the cheik, and once more we learned that in -this country you are expected to have some coffee -<i>before</i> a glass of tea, and then roasted almonds and -melon-seeds. I like to think it was the children who -decorated their little cat’s ears with pink tassels in our -honour, much to the animal’s annoyance. While the -pig had been also “decorated,” to <i>his</i> intense delight!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Madame retired immediately on our arrival; but -when “tea” was finished, I begged that she might -join us. Though veiled and shy, she came. Then she -and her husband brought their outes (a Turkish guitar -played with a feather) and sang to us without any -restraint.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>We stayed with them so many hours that, at last, -I began to fear I was expected to make the first move. -At three o’clock I asked the cheik when we were going -to continue our journey, and he quickly answered: -“When you please”—confirming my suspicions.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was now informed that we should probably be -too late for the one train in the day, and have to face -a journey of many hours in bullock-wagons, drawn perhaps -by mules. No one even hinted that I was to blame; -yet no one would have dreamt of being so rude as to -tell me that it was <i>my</i> place to break up the party!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The line from Smyrna to Angora had been cut -at Gunhani, as had the line from Haïdar Pasha at -Bilidjik and Kara-Keuy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>From Gunhani we had to reach Afioun-Karahissar as -we best could, partly by Deacoville, then by ox-wagon -and luggage trains to Ouchak and on to Afioun. The -railway bridge destroyed at Gunhani was a fine example -of French engineering, which went right over the -mountains, from eight hundred to a thousand feet -high. It will take years to rebuild. The Turks do not -complain, and have cheerfully accepted the terrible -discomfort to passengers and goods traffic, with their -usual philosophy. “The destruction of an important -railway,” as they calmly remark, “is legitimate warfare -and first-class strategy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>We could realise, however, what the disaster really -<i>meant</i>, as we climbed down, without the help -of any kind of pathway, from the commandant’s little -house on the steep hills. Once on the road we took an -ox-wagon, drawn by mules, for what was still little -better than a mountain track, to the nearest point of -the railway that was in order, in the direction of Afioun-Karahissar. -Unable, like the cheik or any Oriental, to -sit on my legs, I had to let them hang over the side -of our wagon.</p> - -<p class='c012'>This scurrying down from the commandant’s house -was not “a picnic!” Our fearless drivers and their -marvellously sure-footed beasts, could not prevent our -being flung from side to side of the springless cart, -holding on for dear life. Sometimes the officer had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>to spring out and push from behind to save us from -falling backwards.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The telegraph wires, of course, were also cut; -but the rapidity with which messengers are able to run -and leap over these ragged mountain ways enabled them -to bring news <i>back</i> to us, of the quickest way to find a -train, in an incredibly short time.</p> - -<div id='i089' class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i089.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='sc'>In an Ox Wagon.</span><br />“Unable to sit on my legs, I have to let them hang over the side of our wagon.”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>I had found it a herculean task to reach, and -return, from our resting place on the hill-top. The -bullock-cart seemed to find it scarcely <i>less</i> difficult to -manipulate the narrow and broken roadway. Yet the -Turkish soldiers had <i>somehow</i> found means and strength -to heave their heavy artillery over these awe-inspiring -passes, from which one slip of the foot meant instant -death.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There was, naturally, “nothing doing” at the -station till very late that night, when we should have -to pass the dark hours in a luggage train. Just before -<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>it was due to start, however, the Governor arrived with -sardines, fruit, and bread, of which we managed to make -a good dinner “on board,” actually our first meal -that day, except for the commandant’s almonds.</p> - -<p class='c012'>A chair was found for me in the empty carriage, but -others had to sit on the floor. We had candles and, -by some means, word was sent in advance of our -approach. They tell me it is quite a short journey, -but I cannot help wishing that we had been able to -stay in the bullock-carts.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Through that strange night—not so cold, indeed, as -yesterday—we seemed to crawl on one mile and then -shunt back two, to an awful accompaniment of clanging -metal that made it impossible to sleep. I had only -to close my eyes for a moment and our train was -certain to be violently thrown back. Really, I thought -my head would be shaken off my body.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As always, the cheik made heroic efforts to wile -away the dark hours and distract my mind. There was -no question I could ask him about Islam in vain. Here -is the best I can reproduce of that fascinating lesson -in faith and philosophy delivered in a luggage train -by night:</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The very word <i>Obedience</i> (<i>i.e.</i> Islam) is contrary to -all Bolshevist ideas, just as Bolshevism itself is contradicted -by the Reign of Terror in Russia. Islam teaches -the ‘preservation of property,’ Bolshevism destroys it. -Verily, the Turks must have passed through sorrow -and tribulation before they could ever have felt any -temptation to ally themselves with the Russia of -to-day. Yet the Soviet has helped us in our time of -need, and we owe our fidelity to the alliance.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I spoke of the vast sums paid out by Russia to -Abdul Hamid to maintain enmity between the Turks -and Great Britain.... “That you have made friends -with your hereditary enemy surely means grave peril -to India.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“So we all feel,” answered the cheik. “But we -can never forget the shock to the Moslem world of -the ‘rumour’ that Constantinople (the seat of Caliphat) -would be handed over to Russia. England had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>gone back on her word and lost our respect for ever. -Henceforth we could be deceived no longer. We were -cyphers, mere pawns, on the political chess-board of -the Powers. The principles of Islam were distorted -without hesitation to prove that no Christian peoples -could live unmolested under Turkish rule. How could -Great Britain be so blind to the unbounded respect she -had earned from Islam by her fine tolerance of <i>all</i> -religions in India? Now she has ‘changed all that,’ and -the war in the Near East was a <i>religious</i> war.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I attempted to frame some excuses for the -pro-Greek attitude of the British Government, he -reminded me of our “old pride in Moslem allegiance. -You have more Moslem than Christian subjects.... -Is not your Prime Minister, Mr. Lloyd George, a democrat? -Where can he find more perfect democracies -than in the East, under Moslem rule? It is a ‘new’ -ideal in the West. When President Wilson began to -preach it, he was derided as a Utopian, because he was -three centuries ahead of his time! Every Moslem -has <i>always</i> been equal before the law—the Sultan stands -<i>with</i> his subjects.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That does not quite ‘explain’ Abdul Hamid,” I -said.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He was the exception we shall never repeat. -You cannot argue from exceptions.... It is the -English who have ceased to value the precepts of Islam. -The Koran bids us obey those in authority. Rather -than rebel, we leave the country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And M. Kemal Pasha? Has he not rebelled?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No, indeed. He simply defended his country, -deposed the vassal-traitor-Sultan.... M. Kemal -Pasha rules direct from the Koran. He will have -strength to set aside the heresies of the Byzantines -that have been grafted on to our Government. It is -nonsense to say that the Koran has been found unfitted -for the requirements of the twentieth century.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There, I fear, I must plead guilty.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You will see, when you have stayed among us a -little longer, that it can be honestly interpreted to meet -man’s present needs.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>“The freedom of women——?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The ‘seclusion’ comes from Byzantium. M. -Kemal will change that, if only he does not himself -make a foolish marriage.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“How do you mean—foolish?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“A princess. We attribute Enver’s downfall to -his having married a princess. He then required -money to maintain his ‘royal’ position; we do -not inquire from whence it came! If M. Kemal -Pasha follows his example we shall lose faith in his -democracy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And a foreigner?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That is almost as bad. The helpmeet of <i>our</i> -choice for him should be one who would help the -country to progress along Eastern lines, not Western. -Rather a peasant than a foreigner or a princess.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I hope he may find one with the intelligence of -Halidé Hanoum, and with her womanly charm. To me -she seems wholly delightful. She can advance, and -remain a woman, as our Anglo-Saxon reformers have -seldom done.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We shall see; but you must make no mistake. -You imagine that women ‘do not count’ in the East, -yet I assure you a foolish marriage for M. Kemal Pasha -would be a national disaster.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I wish you were not so much against British rule.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I must face facts. You have been doing strange -things here for the last twenty-three years. We do -not object to you because you are rulers, but to the -way in which you now rule. In Islam all the faiths -co-operate. Israel has its place, and we venerate -Christ no less than our Prophet. It is the same in -England itself, yet the very men whom you receive -in your London drawing-rooms are spoken of in -Egypt and India as ‘natives.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Neither can I understand that.” I agreed.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No, <i>you</i> would not; but, if you really want to -know the truth, we are discouraged and hurt. How -can your Empire accept your ex-Premier’s pro-Greek -campaign after his <i>glorious</i> speeches in support of -democracy?”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>“The more I think about it,” said I, “the less I -understand.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Well, the consequences for us are black. We -were so long content to pass our days in confidence -that all was well with British at the helm. Now we -are watching with anxious eyes; only we pray that -the ‘to-morrow’ which all good Moslems desire, may -yet come with M. Kemal Pasha. I have sons, who -must all be soldiers, since we no longer trust the West.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Will they be educated in England, at Oxford?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No, alas! They are in Germany. They must -learn to put the responsibilities of citizenship before -sport. They must not associate with men who might -afterwards settle in Egypt and call them ‘niggers.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>These were bitter truths for my pride in England.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The cheik, by the way, was born in Egypt, and -regarded as a dangerous Moslem foe! I wonder if that -can in any sense justify his exile from his native land?</p> - -<p class='c012'>As he tells me: The victory of M. Kemal is the -direct result of an attempt to express the spirit of -nationalism, which will not be kept down. For the -first time Moslems have adopted the Nationalist appeal. -If that fail, you will be confronted by a Pan-Islam -uprising. The eyes of all Moslem are on Turkey. -Strike her, who is Islam’s head, and every limb will -rise in protest against the blow.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As a man of God,” I protested, “you have no -right to speak of war. There must <i>not</i> be war.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“When responsible British Ministers refer to Salonika -as the Gate of Christendom, we can no longer -stand aside.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The Governor and all the “notables” of Ouchak -were on the platform as our luggage train arrived -“in state.” When they invited us to stay the night, -I accepted at once, without giving anyone else the -chance to refuse. After three days and two nights on -the road, I could not forego the luxury of a wash and -a change of clothes, or the chance to brush and comb -out my hair!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span> - <h2 id='ch11' class='c009'>CHAPTER XI</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>A PUBLIC MEETING AT OUCHAK—HOSPITALITY—A SACRED RITE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>At</span> Ouchak, I frankly declined to spend another night -in a luggage train. I admired the Turks’ resourcefulness -in coping with the extremely limited service of -trains—the women inside a luggage-van and the men -on the roof. I do not regret the fact that I have -probably endured even more discomfort than other -European visitors to Angora, since I have attempted -and achieved more. But for the moment it seemed -really essential to pause and rest.</p> -<p class='c012'>We were told they had only one private train car -on <i>this</i> side of the break in the line, which had been -reserved for the Minister of Finance, whom we should -probably soon meet. Engines were terribly “short,” -and most of the trains had been burnt by Greeks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Governor drove us to the house of one of the -wealthiest men in the town, once the headquarters of -King Constantine. Our host proved to be a mere lad -of twenty, who was nevertheless directing a large -carpet factory which had partially escaped destruction, -with considerable efficiency and skill.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Thanking us with graceful dignity for the honour of -our visit, he gave immediate direction for our reception -in his noble guest-chamber. He apologised for the -bareness of rooms, rifled by Greeks; but, in my judgment, -the rich and wonderful carpets were furniture -enough.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As M. Kemal Pasha had taken over the house from -King Constantine, our host asked me, in joke, whose -“bed” I would choose! I naturally at once replied -<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>M. Kemal’s. “Ah no,” said he, “you must not decide -without seeing both.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Being always afraid of air-raids, the Greek sovereign -had taken an underground suite, certainly arranged -with great taste and every attention to creature -comfort. Lit and heated by electricity, the arrangements -closely resembled a German trench. M. Kemal -Pasha had slept on the first, or top, floor, and as I like -to think, under my white satin covering, worked with -irises. It was a proud moment for our host—that <i>I</i> -should occupy a bed already honoured by M. Kemal!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told him how at Gerbervilliers Sœur Julie once -let me sleep in a bed previously occupied by Cardinal -X., and even conferred on me the supreme honour of -using his Eminence’s sheet! That “last touch,” said -my host, he, “unfortunately, could not repeat. The -Pasha’s sheets!—well, they were not <i>here</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>We soon sat down with the Governor, the Mayor, -and other “notables,” to a well-cooked meal of Turkish -delicacies, supervised by our host himself. My only -criticism of Turkish dishes is based on their “fattening” -qualities, and the pleasure in flavours which tempt one -to over-eat.</p> - -<p class='c012'>More “notables” appeared for an afternoon reception, -in strange and picturesque costumes: Deputies, -hodjas, and judges. How I longed to borrow that -judge’s saxe-blue silk robe for a dressing-gown; -but, knowing that he would “give” me anything -for which I expressed a fancy, my honour sternly -forbade the request! Everyone had left their shoes -on the mat, and sat in their stockinged feet. My muddy -boots were a disgrace.</p> - -<p class='c012'>They all talked Nationalism, overjoyed by the recent -victories and, I cannot deny, bitter against Great -Britain.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was invited to a big “Nationalist” meeting, to be -held that night at the Young Men’s Club, and was only -too glad to have the chance of answering the questions -I knew they would want to put. It is always wise to -encourage our critics to air their grievances.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We were conducted up a rickety staircase to a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>large room thick with smoke. The men were all wearing -kalpaks, and evidently puzzled at first by the “Englishwoman -in their midst.” Some of them smiled, others -plainly showed their surprise, and others just stared.</p> - -<p class='c012'>After the cheik had opened the meeting in a very -few words, our host rose to explain my presence. He -told them that I had come to Angora entirely on my -own responsibility, because, though our authorities -called it “brink of war,” I wanted to convince the -Turks that we should not <i>have</i> war.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then, with the Governor as my interpreter, I -begged them “to believe that Mr. Lloyd George’s -policy was <i>not</i> the policy of the English people. He -had only followed Gladstone in <i>this</i> matter, and he -had been led astray by M. Venizelos. No other -Englishman would make war on Turkey, and we, the -people, were therefore determined upon his fall.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“<i>Inch Allah</i>,” cried the people.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then I said that “whether our Conservatives or -Labour men followed Mr. Lloyd George, it would make -no difference to them. Both parties are all for peace. -I was not Turkey’s only friend in Great Britain. We -who knew were all hard at work for peace.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was a strange meeting! Did the Governor really -translate what the men actually said? Some were -obviously filled with anger, though “<i>saura-saura</i> and -Mr. Lloyd George” was all I could catch. The Governor -interpreted, “The speaker does not approve of Mr. -Lloyd George’s policy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Nor do I,” I replied, which made them all laugh -heartily.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“In any case,” I concluded, “there is not going to -be war. It is contrary to all reason, and we have been -enemies long enough! We are going to be great -friends now.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I answered a host of questions, which, however, -the Governor had softened in his interpretation to -avoid hurting my feelings.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Finally my host invited the audience to express -their appreciation of the visit from an Englishwoman, -who had persisted, against such terrible odds, in coming -<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>to give them so much “news” from Great Britain; -and the old wooden roofs echoed to their cheers and -clapping.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Maybe the British Government would scarcely have -approved our meeting; but there are many people in -England who take a different view; and as I told the -people, “I had been seven years on the French front -(a real slice out of one’s life) and I knew what war meant. -I will not believe our men are going to be led to war -again. However our politicians may talk, whatever -hysteria may be printed in the Press, we have sound, -practical reasons for friendship. There is nothing in -the Nationalist Pact to which Great Britain can -seriously object; nothing, certainly, to justify the -shedding of blood on either side.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>After the meeting we drove back to our comfortable -quarters, and talked long into the night over tea -and cigarettes. Too tired to sleep, I told my host if -once I dozed off there would be no waking me “this -side of anytime,” so I “let myself go” upon the glories -of old England and the fine traditions of our race—a -subject my present companions were still perfectly -ready to applaud.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We passed on to America and her big Press. To -their taste, British journalism is “just dry bones—without -a breath of life.” They must have something -picturesque, unrestrained by any considerations -of taste or possible hurt to the feelings of those -concerned.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told them of the strange pride with which an -American dared to boast of an “interview” with -King Constantine. “His Majesty,” as the reporter -had written, “without asking me even to sit down, -drew from his pocket a handsome case and helped himself -to a cigarette. He naturally did not offer one to me.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Constantine was, naturally, infuriated by the -sarcastic implication, and denied the “interview” -altogether. The “man from the States” promptly -started an “action” against him, and withdrew it, once -he had thus secured far more publicity (which means -dollars) than all the “interviews” he might have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>secured with deposed royalties, would ever have brought -his way.</p> - -<p class='c012'>A lady compatriot of his, in the same spirit, once -claimed to have secured an “interview” with M. Kemal -Pasha, and wrote that “he smoked Player’s cigarettes.” -When I told her friend that this was certainly untrue, -he said: “What matters! It was good copy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was not, however, altogether surprised to learn -that this “impression” of Constantine was, most -probably, quite true. All kinds of similar stories were -in circulation about the dead monarch, but the Turkish -officers were of opinion that, though as commander-in-chief -he certainly appeared to live underground, there -was little he could be expected to achieve with the -army at his command. To be <i>fearless</i> is a commandant’s -first duty, and for that quality they were as -ready to praise the fallen Djémal and Enver as M. -Kemal Pasha himself. With all his faults and -mistakes, none could accuse Enver of fear.</p> - -<p class='c012'>My “lady’s maid” on this occasion proved to be -a picturesque young woman, dressed in very bright -colours, wearing her hair in two long plaits enclosed -in a gay scarf. With the pleasant zeal of her race, she -squandered the whole contents of a beautiful Eastern -water-jug in “pouring them over my hands,” a process -which used up all the water long before I felt clean! -And not even grease and eau-de-Cologne would drive -off half the effects of these terrible days from my face. -It was a case for Turkish baths. And Nazafer, my -little maid, proved so timid and gentle a hairdresser -that I had to use some English “force” in this direction -when she had left me for the night.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet words cannot express the delight of this -welcome change to all the luxuries of civilisation. A -blazing wood fire, a hot bottle, and the generous supply -of white satin cushions worked in a lovely iris design -on my vast, picturesque bed!</p> - -<p class='c012'>If the dogs outside could only accept their grievances -with the silent dignity of the East! As I peep through -my lattice windows over the half-ruined city, now bathed -in the silver light of the new moon, I can only marvel -<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>again that we hear scarcely a murmur from these -suffering people in their terrible distress. What do we -want with this mutilated country for which they are -ready to die?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here is the tale of a patriot that outstrips the -wildest imagination to have conceived. A certain -woman, so poor that she had but one miserable garment -to protect her starving babe, catches sight of some -“munitions” that are lying near her, <i>exposed</i> to the -cold! She does not hesitate a moment, but lifting her -poor child’s only covering, carefully wraps it round -the “instruments of war.” Maybe the good God -will send me another child,” she whispered; “at all -costs, my country must be saved!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>How dare we attempt to hamper these people’s -freedom, bought at so dear a price? Surely the future -is <i>theirs</i> to shape as they will.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When the morning is well advanced, and the sun is -streaming upon me through scarlet lace curtains, I am -at last awakened from dreams of burning cities to the -alarms of war. Downstairs, sad and bewildered faces -almost convince me that actual hostilities have begun. -But I am now fully awake, and still refuse to believe.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is absolute nonsense,” I insist on telling them. -“<i>My</i> country is <i>your</i> friend.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>But even the optimism of our host had been shaken -by the pessimist newspaper reports. They all knew, -however, that, if it <i>was</i> war, I should stay with them, -and they would allow me to nurse our own “men.”... -It was not the “men” who would make war; and -I gladly repeated their high tributes to the fine soldierly -qualities of the Turk, in startling contrast to most -Germans!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Our host himself superintended the preparation of -my breakfast tray—eggs and butter, honey and jam, -fruits and cheese.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You have sent me a grocer’s shop,” I exclaimed -to him later, but he waived aside my gratitude with a -casual, “Don’t mention it.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>I reminded him that he had promised I should see -“madame” and the baby. “Could not she share our -meal?” He said she was tired and really preferred -to rest. Was the excuse diplomatic?</p> - -<p class='c012'>He told me that almost immediately after their -marriage (about a year and a half ago, when she was -only seventeen), they had “escaped” to Rhodes, -and it was only too likely their brief experience of -home—such as war had left them—would be once more -cruelly interrupted. She, unfortunately, did not -speak French, but I could easily read in her large, -pathetic, dark eyes the excuses she strove to offer for -what would never have struck me as “inadequate” -hospitality.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I tried to convey my deep sympathy to her husband. -“You seem like a couple of dear children,” I said, -“just eager to make us all happy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Every Turk,” he replied gravely, “must marry -young. The country needs children.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>M. Kemal Pasha entirely confirmed the curious -impressions that this household could not fail to produce -on any visitor from Europe. It almost made one think -of Turkey as the social Antipodes. In England so -many women are now doing men’s work, in addition -to their own. Here we see men working for both -sexes. I have no doubt the sweet little lady had -“prepared” everything in advance, but when we -arrived, she felt it becoming to disappear! It was our -host, again, whom I had surprised in the midst of his -ministrations for a most excellent lunch!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The afternoon was spent in driving about the -pillaged city, visiting our host’s carpet-factory and a -number of weaving-looms in private houses. It is a -privilege, indeed, to see all these treasures of beauty -shaping before one’s eyes. It must, I think, be a great -relief for the “tired in mind” to “get busy” about -mechanical work. One’s fingers soon turn into machines, -weaving the wool in and out of the frame, cutting -the pile, the whole process of creating those -wonderful Eastern “floorings” we all admire. The -making of even “high art” goods must rest the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>nerves, like the “perpetual motion” of my Scotch -mother’s knitting needles!</p> - -<p class='c012'>In the distance the cemetery looked like a large -field, glaring with poppies and cornflowers that it was -puzzling to find so late in this cold climate. As we -approached, however, the picturesque scene proved -to come from dyed wool left to dry on the tombstones, -which were, themselves, of a turban-like shape.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In the market we were astonished to find how -quickly trade had recovered, almost to pre-war activity, -since my last visit. Somehow they have discovered -tools and wood to patch up booths for the old business.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told my companions I “hoped the people would -soon be given material to rebuild the whole town, that -Europe would send money in admiring recognition of -their ‘already proven’ ability to help themselves.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It seemed almost a “confessional” for me, as -the officers and municipal authorities, the deputies -and the hodjas, plied me with question after question, -because they knew I would tell them all I could, and -speak the truth!</p> - -<p class='c012'>They brought me photographs—of cities in ruins, -of mutilated and disfigured human beings!—unfortunately -too primitive for reproduction, but no less -invaluable as documentary evidence, almost too ghastly -for man to “look on and live”!</p> - -<p class='c012'>We drove also to the aviation ground and were shown -what the officer in charge had contrived to make of -the cannon left by Greeks. Though everything was -systematically hacked to pieces, it had been all “put -together again” by the Turks with astonishing patience -and perseverance.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Naturally proud of his work, and delighted to tell -us how it had all been managed, the officer, fortunately, -quite forgot I was English. He was telling us that -he found a few French 75’s, but that most of the guns -were howitzers. Suddenly realising the need for -caution, or rather courtesy, he burst out: “Cannon, -Lloyd George,” and won from us all the most grateful -and laughing applause.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was further especially pleased with his outspoken -<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>pride in the Turkish women aviators, of whom his own -wife had been one. All honour to them—from that -Jeanne d’Arc of Turkey, Halidé Hanoum, to every -woman who had unloaded munitions from the boats -and “done her bit” in the factories!</p> - -<p class='c012'>He told us how women had watched for ships bringing -munitions as for angels of deliverance. How they -toiled at the unloading and bore their burdens with -uncomplaining zeal. No man must lift a finger for -work that could possibly be undertaken by women. -As M. Kemal Pasha says: “The women have <i>done</i> -their part in saving the country, they must <i>have</i> their -share in governing it.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It has always been supposed that France supplied -most of these munitions. But the Turks paid <i>us</i> -£5,000 sterling (at the present rate of exchange) for a -load of their own munitions that we had “picked -up,” and they bought arms from the English officers -in Constantinople. Further supplies, of course, were -obtained from Frenchmen, Italians, Russians, and, -incredible as it may seem, from the Greeks themselves. -Turkey bought arms wherever she could, and set -herself the grim task of readjustment.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Meanwhile, the Governor had been telegraphing -for us in all directions all day, for news of a train to -take us on our way. All the services, of course, were -disorganised, and the line cut—a message from Smyrna -to Kassaba might take twelve days! We would not -worry, or hope!</p> - -<p class='c012'>At about 9.30, we hear of another luggage -train! It is not a long journey from Ouchak to -Afioun-Karahissar. We are now well supplied with food -and candles, a dilapidated deck-chair has been dug out -for me, and the cheik’s brilliant conversation will -“make history” of the night.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I had managed to have a few words with our host’s -wife before we left the house. Her husband translating, -she thanked me again and again for my visit, -and then, asking me to excuse her going to see an ailing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>brother, she sailed away with her little babe in her -arms. As she turned smiling on us from the big -gateway, I could not resist blowing a kiss to the child-like -and pathetic figure she made—for all the world like -a schoolgirl and her doll!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Towards evening, as we were preparing to leave our -host, I caught sight of a few tears rolling down his -cheeks. Like an Englishman, he quickly brushed them -aside, and turned to me with a smile.</p> - -<p class='c012'>What had I said, or done? We had been skating -on thin ice all the time. I would never deliberately -hurt anyone’s feelings, but I cannot resist a joke, -and, in a foreign language, there is danger of misunderstanding.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I found a chance of asking the cheik to tell me -frankly if I had unwittingly given any offence, for -which I would be only too eager to tender my sincere -regret and apology. But he explained: Our host’s -brother-in-law had died during the night, and, not -wishing to disturb our entertainment, his wife had -bravely set out alone to attend the funeral.</p> - -<p class='c012'>So even the most intimate domestic sorrow was not -permitted to interrupt our enjoyment; the intrusion, -as it <i>must</i> be felt, of an unknown woman from an -enemy land!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have never met, even in Turkey, such a fine spirit -of hospitality. <i>My</i> tears could not be kept back. -Here was a mere lad heaping coals of fire on my head. -Again and again the words sternly echoed in my brain: -“These things should never have been.”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span> - <h2 id='ch12' class='c009'>CHAPTER XII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>A LUGGAGE TRAIN—THE WORST STAGE OF MY WHOLE JOURNEY</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>We</span> are an hour late, the rain is pouring in torrents as -I mount from a Turk’s back to my now familiar “van”; -the station is full of friends crowding to witness our -start and say farewell.</p> -<div id='i104' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i104.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>From a Turk’s Back.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>After no more than an hour of what proved to be -much the worst stage of my whole journey, I was determined -against any further dependence upon “goods -<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>traffic.” I should infinitely prefer to walk. Our compartment, -I know, had not been chosen for comfort—there -was no other to be had. But the roof leaked, -the doors would not shut, it was impossible to keep -our candles alight.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At every few kilometres there is a halt. After an -hour and a half the cheik and the officer are beyond -words. Wrapped in rugs on the cold, hard floor, -they are soon fast asleep, and now peacefully snoring. -I should have thought myself that our continual -joltings were enough to wake the dead, but my friends, -fortunately, seem able to sleep on, pitched as they are -every moment from side to side like long, shapeless -bundles of woollen stuff. I put my umbrella up and -donned a mackintosh, while our fellow-traveller, the -Inspector of Forests, is no more able to sleep than I, -but does his best to relieve the monotony by smiling at -me (since we have no common language) whenever a -candle is blown out and he patiently relights it.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was, perhaps, no more than subdued hysteria -which suddenly drove me to break the long silence with -strange sounds of laughter that awakened and clearly -startled the cheik. After a little, I managed, somehow, -to explain my unseemly outburst.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The day before leaving Paris I had written to -Lord Robert Cecil in earnest endeavour to persuade -that fine enthusiast for the League of Nations that an -international “Mother of Parliaments” could never -maintain its authority under suspicion of antagonism -to Islam. Therefore, I begged him to remove the stigma -once and for all by going to Angora himself. And now -the picture had flashed into my mind of Lord Robert, -having responded to my suggestion, only to find himself -being rattled about beside me, under an open -umbrella, on the floor of a crawling luggage train in -the black darkness of a wet night.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was a relief just then for all of us to join in a -good laugh; but the policy of the League has not been -helpful to Islam, and, in this matter, its unnecessary mistakes—as -I have again and again pointed out—will prove -a serious hamper to its otherwise splendid activities.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>Meanwhile, our merriment is soon checked. Sudden -shrieks from the engine and an exceptionally generous -supply of jolts and bangs conjure up to my mind -awful visions of a collision in the gruesome loneliness -of the night. The cheik, however, does not share my -alarm, but calmly answers: “Methinks we do but -unrail!” To me, however, the prospect suggested -of ending my days in an Anatolian ditch, without -even the covering of my Union Jack, offers but poor -consolation.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Come, wake up,” I almost shouted, “it is too -terrible! Someone <i>must</i> talk to me about Islam.” -And when I realised my own selfishness in not leaving -the poor man to sleep, I could only put forth the plea: -“I am so interested in your religion.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I am flattered indeed,” was the immediate -response. “Religion in the East is truly a real and -living force.” At his grave words I saw again that -long line of weary soldiers among the mountains at -their prayers.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I shall wound your feelings,” I went on, “if I -persist in questioning you about the grievances of -your people, though God knows my curiosity is not -idle.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is far better to wound my feelings and publish -the truth than to suffer the slightest risk of your -misjudging us. You may help to see us righted, for -Great Britain may have indeed ‘sinned in ignorance.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>But my allusion to Lord Robert Cecil had raised -the problem of Christianity in the East. I had to -admit that he was accused of working for “union” -between the Anglican and the Greek Churches. “He -<i>is</i> a devout, loyal and energetic Anglican, but I refuse -to believe that he would ever encourage such criminal -folly.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He is, indeed, too honourable,” replied the cheik. -“That is only another example of bringing politics -into religion, which must kill faith.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But does not Islam teach us that politics and -religion are one?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No, indeed; that is a false, Western, interpretation -<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>of the Koran. It is our work to-day to set free -religion from the canker of all statecraft.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I could not resist interposing at this point with my -conviction that no <i>established</i> Church can pursue wisdom; -while the insecurity of our Free Churches to-day must -always “put brakes” on their power against the -Government, and “muzzle” the <i>real</i> freedom of -thought or truth.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When we got back to Greece, the cheik gave me -chapter and verse for his conviction that “if the Turks -should allow the Greek Patriarch to remain in Constantinople, -their tolerance would have degenerated -to mere weakness.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It was a golden dream for the Greeks, nearly -realised; but it is not for us to substantiate it.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They were to drive us back into the depths of -Asia Minor, to rule over the peoples who had been their -masters for five centuries, to recapture the great -‘Bible’ towns for the Cross; to settle on the shores of -Marmora and Constantinople, that they might drive -on to Rome!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Their vision, assuredly, did not lack grandeur.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It even seemed for a little that realisation might -be achieved by zeal and ardour, until King Constantine’s -return provoked M. Briand’s famous ‘Note’ of -November, 1920, and put an end to the dream.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here I uttered a word of regret that we had not -then followed the policy of the French “surely a -course that might have saved us from all the jealousy -and suspicion we have so perversely incurred.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The cheik replied indirectly by reminding me that -M. Venizelos was not to be quite so easily, or immediately, -defeated: “A great, some say a subtle and -profound, personality, who had the <i>entrée</i> to all the -Courts of Europe. He formed in himself a strong link -between the Greek Colonies and all the Powers, particularly -England and America. He made British -friendship the pivot of ‘Greek Expansion.’ He -was not a man to bow before any discouragement or -difficulty.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Now he conceived the idea, attributed to Lord -<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>Robert Cecil, of union between the two Churches, -which at once enlisted the strong support of another -Cretan, Monseigneur Metaxatis, no longer Metropolitan -of Athens after King Constantine’s return.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Metaxatis was received with open arms in -America, where he devised the formation of an ‘American -Orthodox Church.’ Your Archbishop of Canterbury -was his next convert, and, thus supported, he was -able to flout Ottoman protests and to appoint himself -(or see that he was appointed) a ‘Patriarch’ at Constantinople, -under the title of Metelios IV.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I scarcely see how any real union could be -established between the Protestant-Anglican—or is it -Catholic?—Church and the Greek, if we realise the -superstitions that Greece has never thrown off. The -Greeks, whatever their faults, have always been -faithful to their old, classic religion. The superstitions, -if not the glories, of Hellas are, one and all, -upheld to-day.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I said that I thought the hand of Providence could -be seen in M. Kemal’s victory, which had saved us -from this preposterous idea.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I learned later, in Angora, of the Patriarch’s -criminal disloyalty on behalf of the Greeks, I almost -wondered if Turkish religious tolerance had not been -carried too far. This wily Churchman actually dared -to make collections, <i>in Turkey</i>, for the Greek army -designed for the capture of Constantinople; openly -preached treason and rebellion. Yet he was sheltered -behind his sacred office from the captivity of General -Trécroupis at Eski-Chéir!</p> - -<p class='c012'>What can we say of this Cretan, who thus dared to -tamper with our national Church? What shall we -say of his spiritual fathers who approved the plan? -What can we say for Greece?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Surely the Churches, whatever their creed, should -uphold honour between all men. If the power a priest -inevitably exerts over the penitent is once abused for -political ends, religion becomes no better than treason. -We look up to those in positions of trust and -responsibility: priests, lawyers, or doctors. When -<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>they betray their trust our sentence is doubly -severe.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The train now seems to have “put up for the night,” -but it is shaking like an earthquake; and as the rain -lashes upon us in torrents, its engine shrieks in unison -with others in the dark distance. Every moment I -expected the whole construction to collapse. It was -the old impression of the “cellars” during an air-raid, -the horrible suffocation of claustro-mania, or the -terror of being buried alive.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I must get out.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You cannot. Where will you go?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I shall walk.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You will be blown away or killed on the line.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I cannot help it. I must get out. The train is -choking me.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But it may start off again any moment, and you -would be left stranded on the line.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The officer, poor man, said nothing. He knew his -duty. Whatever I might choose to do, he must accompany -me and share my fate.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The inspector at last jumps out, and the cheik, -exclaiming, “If you must go, you must,” throws me -down into the arms of that sturdy and solid being, -as you might fling a cat out into the rain. Now fully -exposed to the “four winds of heaven,” the drenching -storm seemed to be tearing my hair off my head, and -I was soon ankle-deep in the thick mud; but the air -was good, and merely to be out of the train banished -all fear of being crushed to death in the darkness by -some passing steam monster.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I <i>ought</i> to have braced my nerves with the thought -that Turkish women have to endure these things; -but for some reason the train terrified me. As I can -justly boast, I was terrified by nothing else in this -country.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Three times they coaxed me back into that choking -van (as now and again the train shifted along for a few -miles), and three times I insisted on being tossed into -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>the storm. It was about two o’clock in the morning -when, to the intense relief of all, we actually arrived -at our destination.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We disembark for “positively the last” time at -Afioun-Karahissar, where the deluge adds its gloom to -the now familiar woefulness of a town in ruins. Yet -many of the inhabitants are actually sleeping in the -mud of that awful night.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We are driven some way beyond the town, to the -one primitive and tumble-down roof that can possibly -offer us shelter. Like most Eastern hans (<i>i.e.</i>, -inns), it is built round a courtyard, the living-rooms -next to the stable; but horses are warm and agreeable -neighbours. Once at the front, on a particularly cold -and bitter day, the French, who shrugged their shoulders -and refused none of my mad requests, politely allowed -me to travel with the horses!</p> - -<p class='c012'>We climb rickety stairs and cross a wooden veranda -to examine the rooms—one with three beds, the other -with two. Alas, the former is too much for even the -cheik’s philosophy, and he decides for the courtyard. -Neither of the beds in the double room is clean, certainly, -but a marked advance on the alternative; -and, after placing the cheik’s quilt and prayer-mat -<i>between</i> myself and the “men in possession,” and -wrapping myself up in two thick rugs, I am glad -enough to “go to bed in my boots,” with at least the -prospect of “keeping still” for a few hours. If a -fire <i>has</i> brought out more “visitors” than were obvious -at our first inspection, it is still better than traffic -“by goods.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The officer is compelled literally to “sit up” all -night, as there is no room for him to stretch his -limbs.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On such a night I could have wished for a “smaller” -hole in the floor, and that the “mud” walls had not -been quite so badly in need of repair; yet the shabby -and threadbare costume of the “man with our morning -tea,” was not sordid, but only picturesque.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The cheik, like so many men, is an excellent housewife, -and when he laid a clean handkerchief upon a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>large volume for tray, our breakfast of bread and -helva, nuts and fruit, looked quite appetising.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is not the “indolence of the East” that is -leaving these people in destitution among the ruins. -One day, what remains standing will have to be pulled -or burnt down, and a complete rebuilding undertaken. -But nothing can be done under a threat of war.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At every inn on our return journey the whole of -the “service” was entrusted to men. This, no doubt, -largely explains the usual discomfort. Women must -not remain entirely anonymous.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The cheik told me he hoped the new generation, -largely educated in Europe, might welcome such -innovations, but “it would be difficult for the old. -My wife, for instance, complained at having to ‘receive’ -men visitors in Berlin. She considered it ‘cheap’ -and ‘lowering’ to her prestige.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I can only hope the women of Turkey, when they -achieve progress, will advance on the right lines—more -determined on tact than pace.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One must, of course, discard conventions at need, -as I was doing all the time on this journey, but one -can, at the same time, respect the feelings of others.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I could not, for convention, allow my present companions -to keep up the full Eastern “separation of the -sexes”; and, as the cheik remarked, London ballrooms -would be no less offensive to Turkish ladies of -the old school than the comparatively “close quarters” -which common humanity forbade us to avoid.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There are often, of course, directly opposed conventions -in different climates. In the Eastern mosques -men keep on hats and take off boots; Europeans -reverse the custom. Eastern women object to “low” -frocks and “strange” partners “for the dance”; -and, as one who had joined in them once told me, it is -better to dance alone; for, if the music suddenly stops, -a “couple” feel so embarrassed!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>We were driven to the station for a train due to leave -<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>at 10 in the morning, which actually started about -5 <span class='fss'>P.M.</span>! We had first attempted to find room in a -third-class compartment with a French colonel, a -Turkish officer, and two servants. But Europeans, -even in Asia Minor, are seldom inclined to be accommodating, -and my “ally” (!) diplomatically expressed -his desire to be left alone in his glory. “You will be -much more comfortable, my dear madam, in a less -crowded carriage. I fear you could not even find a -seat among all these officers, and, at least, fifty -boxes.” We were not slow to take the hint.</p> - -<p class='c012'>However, there is no sign of being able to leave the -station for some hours, and the sun is shining for a -change. Everyone, naturally, prefers the platform; -and having learnt, it appears, that I am <i>not</i> married to -either the cheik or the Turkish officer, the colonel -approaches me with renewed curiosity. When I -explain that I am English, he simply answers: “You -mean American?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The one Frenchman and the one Englishwoman -in Anatolia,” was my retort, “have met by chance at -a wayside railway station, and you will not even allow -me to enter your carriage. Are <i>you</i> really French?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I should be delighted and honoured if you will -come and talk to me,” was the would-be gallant reply, -“but I have twenty boxes” (he has quickly disposed -of thirty). “I thought at first you were a lady of -sixty.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And numbered your boxes to match my years! -I see; after all, you <i>must</i> be French!”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<div id='i112' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i112.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>H.M. THE KALIPH OF ISLAM.<br />A charming gentleman and a distinguished artist.<br />p. 112</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>The cheik told me that Afioun means “opium,” -and Karahissar is the centre of that trade, completely -paralysed for the moment. When I had tea with Dame -Rachel Crowday at the League of Nations in Geneva, -I heard that Turkey desired to join the Opium Convention, -a striking instance of public spirit in a country -that needs all the money it can possibly lay hands on; -but the moral welfare of her people counts for more -than “profit” to the State. M. Kemal Pasha, indeed, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>has shown equal wisdom by prohibiting the sale of -alcohol. In Constantinople it was said, with a truly -“Western” hauteur: “How can the Turks imagine -that they will succeed where the United States have -made such a failure?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Is that a sound argument” I replied, “for giving -them a chance of becoming what the States were -<i>before</i> prohibition? Americans do not know ‘how to -drink’; and I am afraid the Turks also might learn to -use alcohol, <i>not</i> as a beverage or a pick-me-up, but -just to get drunk.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The strength and endurance of Turkish children, -nourished on bread and water, must prove of the -strongest possible support to prohibition. “And -remember how quickly the Arab’s wounds were healed -at the front, while alcohol was so effective an antidote -for septic-poisoning, because it had never before -even entered their systems.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Constantinople had proved a sore affront to my -national pride; but there was an occasion in Naples -when its humiliation was even more complete.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was passing a crowd of happy children on the quay, -rolling and tumbling about in some strangely ridiculous -fashion. Always keenly interested in children’s games -(and prayers), I went up to them and asked what they -were doing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was a game entitled “The drunken Englishman”!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span> - <h2 id='ch13' class='c009'>CHAPTER XIII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>A THIRD-CLASS COMPARTMENT—A FRENCHMAN AMONGST THE RUINS</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>After</span> a few miles of such travelling as had now become -familiar, I determined that I would change my carriage -and pay a visit to the French colonel—which proved far -more lengthy than I had intended.</p> -<p class='c012'>When I had manipulated the climb, I found plenty -of room in spite of boxes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What on earth are you doing here?” was his -first question, to which I gave him a <i>tu quoque</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I am looking after the French interests in Syria,” -he replied, an answer that could not fail to provoke -a laugh.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That is well worth noting,” I said, “a parallel -to my journey from London to Edinburgh, <i>via</i> Paris! -It will make ‘good news’ for the British Foreign -Office.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And in what way can it concern them?” was -the stiff reply. “Their own record in these parts is -not entirely <i>sans reproche</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Don’t forget I am an Englishwoman and not, -as you insist on saying, an American.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Is it not practically the same? You speak -one language.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I started up, almost in anger. “Never dare to -say such a thing again. I might as well ask whether -you were a Senegali. The language is the same. -Individual Americans, some parts of their country, I -consider, are magnificent, but their Government!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Will any Government bear close inspection?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Perhaps not.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>“You regard the States precisely as I should -expect from an Englishwoman. But, after all, what -has Great Britain done in Turkey, after ‘letting us -down’ over ‘reparations’—perfidious Albion!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I may be dense,” I returned (somewhat evasively, -I admit), “but what exactly is the connection between -Syria and M. Kemal Pasha?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Everything and nothing,” was the characteristically -enigmatic reply.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I take that as courteous French for ‘mind your -business,’ as charming a phrase as your <i>Pourquoi-parceque</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He supposed that “I had been sent to Angora by -the British Government,” and I promised to send him -notes on my conversation with “the authorities” at -Smyrna.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Naturally,” the colonel persisted, “they would -<i>pretend</i> they had nothing to do with your undertaking; -but do they not pay your expenses?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I never heard of our Government having <i>paid</i> -a woman; I never heard of their even consulting a -woman—except Miss Bell—and, according to Colonel -Laurence, her great charm is that everyone takes her -for a man!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The colonel laughed.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I am absolutely independent; nor shall I send a -word to the Press unless I want to do so.... -The Government may exile me or send me to prison; -so may the Turks. But I <i>shall</i> describe <i>what I see as -I see it</i>; and if anyone can prove me in error, I will -correct my statements and apologise.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“So few of us have the courage to write either -articles or books in the spirit of true independence -that truth demands. We writers should not be at the -beck and call of newspaper editors. We ought not -to respect their policy if it offend our conscience or -the truth. <i>They</i> should follow our lead. Had we only -had more <i>esprit de corps</i> this terribly false position of -Great Britain in Anatolia to-day could never have come -about.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If the articles in which I have told the truth -<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>are <i>not</i> published you will know the reason. The -editor has his opinions, and I refuse to change mine.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What about the British propaganda?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There is no British propaganda.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The colonel laughed, loud and long. “No country,” -he said, “has spent so much on ‘intelligence’ as -Great Britain. Gold has been poured from her coffers. -That is why she has been so badly served.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I entirely agree. We <i>have</i> squandered millions -in the Near East—in Palestine, Mesopotamia, and everywhere -else. But towards women no Government has -been so mean. It is our own fault; ‘cheap labour’ -is considered patriotic; and, after all, the Government -could not find the money to squander unless -someone was willing to take their pittance.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“My dear young lady, the British are rolling in -money.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“M. Briand told the same tale till I cornered him -one day, and then he said: ‘Your country is so rich -that she can even afford to give ‘golden’ hair to her -women!’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Well,” he replied, “I can but admire you—to -have undertaken such a journey, at such a time, without -the backing of your Government or the Press—and -all for no purpose!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You are frank,” I said with a smile. “Do you -think I could have accomplished more with the financial -backing that your women can always command from -your Government?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I cannot understand your Government.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Neither can I.... That’s why I am here.... Do -you remember the Bible story of a city offered -salvation if but <i>one</i> righteous and upright man could -be found within her gates? So, God willing, may I, as -<i>one</i> Englishwoman and a friend, preserve for my country -some last shred of respect and faith in our honour -among the Moslems of Turkey and India, Egypt, Persia, -and Palestine.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Courtesy, I suppose, kept him silent, and we were -soon busy with preparations for dinner. He produced -a towel for serviette, a piece of newspaper for table-cloth, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>and—luxury of luxuries—a knife, a fork, and a -mug in which to enjoy some good French wine! -The menu, too, was a change: <i>foie gras</i> and sardines, -almonds and figs, apples and jam.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I shall come and dine with you again,” said I, -lest he should be too shy to invite me.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I found that the colonel and his staff could fully -sympathise, from their own experience, with my -anathemas upon luggage traffic. I told him “no -doubt it was he and his friends who were making those -awful ‘night noises’ that so alarmed me”; and though, -of course, he denied it, my story received the tribute -of a polite and good-natured laugh.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I admire your courage,” he said again.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Reserve your judgment. You will have time -enough to see later what a combative person I -can be.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“<i>Nous verrons.</i>”</p> - -<p class='c012'>We reached Eski-Chéir at about nine o’clock, and a -telegram announced to the colonel that a special -private car was on its way to meet him.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Now,” said he, “I can offer hospitality, not only -to you, but to your friends as well.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>We went to a café for tea, where numbers of Turks, -wearing kalpaks, were singing patriotic songs. Directly -they had finished, I clapped my hands, crying: “M. -Kemal Pasha, <i>Chok Guzel</i>,” and their delight was -obvious.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Poor fellows,” said the colonel, whom I began to -find sympathetic, “it needs such a tiny effort; they -will respond to the least hint of real sympathy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is nothing sordid about this little tumble-down -café, though its floors are thick with mud and the -attendants are charmingly shabby. “At least,” I -said, “this dirt and discomfort is artistic.... What -artist would dream of painting an American sky-scraper, -luxurious and comfortable though it be? Yet here -one could cover the walls of an exhibition from one -day’s experience. The picturesque water-pots, the -quaint trays, the artistic tea-glasses and coffee-cups, -the colouring of the costumes.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>“If Mr. Chester of the U.S. has come here to sweep -away all this he is an enemy of Art.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I love creature comforts—warmth, baths, and -perfumes, but I sincerely trust no fever of reform -will ever induce the Turks to spoil their surroundings; -and, above all, that they will never call in American -specialists to teach them building achievements. -By all means let them adopt American hygiene; but -American architecture, God forbid!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I will pay honour where honour is due. To all -who have so nobly perpetuated the work of Florence -Nightingale I bow the knee. But what will American -innovations do for Turkey?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“In the East End of New York, America’s melting-pot, -I once saw a picturesque old Jew reading Spinoza -in the original, as he sat absorbed on the sidewalk. -His velvet cap was old and shabby, the long grizzly -beard maybe none too clean; but in the primitive -robes of his ancient race he looked a true Oriental.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Then appeared his ‘American son’—a ‘Bowery’ -accent, many smart rings, a costly gold watchchain -across his brightly-coloured waistcoat, spats and -patents, and a ‘time is money’ expression on his -alert face. Which of the generations would you -prefer?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If the Turk ever asks our advice, I sincerely -hope no ‘counsels from Europe’ will ever replace the -artistic traditions of the East.... Europeanised -Turks are not the ‘best’ Turks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You have already, alas, in the Hippodrome at -Constantinople, that cheap, ‘made in Germany’ -monstrosity of a fountain, which the once-mighty -Emperor William bequeathed to you as the ‘souvenir’ -of a visit to ‘his brother,’ Abdul Hamid! Why has -war left it untouched?”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>It was a strange comfort to compare the happy -faces of these men with those one knew under the late -Sultans. In those days, two or three meeting together -in a café were always in fear of arrest as “suspects.” -<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>I remember what songs broke forth on the Night of the -Constitution—funereal, indeed, they sounded to our -thinking, but such <i>are</i> their songs of joy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then they sang for joy, since “freedom” was too -new a thing for serious contentment; oppression had -only just been lifted, the sense of security had not -arrived. Now, in the sure knowledge of freedom from -the Greeks and from Imperial rule, they sit, calm and -confident and well satisfied, no longer an Emperor’s -slaves, but citizens of a Free State. Can one wonder -that every one of them would die rather than lose one -inch of the liberty so bravely won?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Please tell them,” I asked the officer, “that I -have been in Turkey for every crisis of progress in -recent history, and that none has filled me with such -proud delight as the victory of M. Kemal Pasha. I -am here to-day to offer him my congratulations.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The colonel politely remarked that it would have -been only “prudent” speculation for the British -Government to have despatched me upon the mission -I had undertaken for myself.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I thought how well it would be for many of my -compatriots to do similar work in other lands. It may -be against all our traditions, but “propaganda” could -now do much for England. Here, on the brink of -war, where all men were filled with righteous indignation -against us, I have at least been able to leave a -“better impression” of my country in wayside -cafés and many Turkish homes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet, as official language would express it, I have not -“licked the boots of the Turks,” and everywhere I -have been treated with the true courtesy of the chivalrous. -May the experience not prove to have laid the -foundation of a new and interesting career for women? -To explain in all lands, and to all envious or hostile -peoples, the true greatness of the British Empire, will -not be work in vain.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Since my return I have been frequently asked to -explain the rôle of the French colonel in Angora. I -cannot feel that his presence implied any disloyalty to -Great Britain. Again and again we have been asked -<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>by France to modify our policy in the Near East. -But as neither threats nor coaxing has availed to save -us from being the tools of designing Greece, France -was driven to “make her own arrangements.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I do not say that she abandoned Cilicia simply for -conscience’ sake, or that she gave back that rich cotton -district to Turkey from a pure love of justice. But I -am ready to congratulate her on the wisdom of retiring -before she was driven out. We must obviously own -that Angora is not on the direct road back to Syria, -and that the colonel has lingered some months by -the way. That, however, is really his own business; -and I do not forget that I, too, once went to Turkey -for six weeks and stayed six months! No doubt he -is no less welcome to M. Kemal Pasha than I was to -the Grand Vizier’s daughter.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He certainly proved an invaluable source of -information. As I told him, “he must have telegraphed -to his Government every time he heard the -Pasha sneeze”; and, emphatically, he has done -good work. Honest, upright, and sincere, he can -“explain many things” to the Turks, and assist them -with tactful advice. At the worst, he has harmed no -one, which cannot be said of all diplomatists in -Constantinople!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I, personally, can respect those with whom I do not -agree, even those who, on behalf of their own country, -dislike mine. It would surely have been more prudent -to <i>follow</i> the French example, by having a representative -in Angora, than to criticise them. Suspicion leads -nowhere, and such a man as General Harington “on -the spot” could have done a great deal to hasten -peace.</p> - -<p class='c012'>France has no desire, or, at least, no considered -campaign, to undermine our influence in the East; -and the colonel, at any rate, was quite aware that, -whatever the gratitude Turkey may owe and feel to her, -it is England who will soon (once more) hold the first -place in Turkey’s affections. The terrible and tragic -bunglings of these last years will then be forgotten.</p> - -<p class='c012'>They have told me themselves that M. Franklin-Bouillon -<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>did all he could to advise them to preserve -good relations with England.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The car arrived about eleven o’clock, and though -we were driven to spend the night in the station (a -junction between HAÏDAR Pasha, Angora and Smyrna); -though the wind howled over the beating rain, and the -train shrieked in the distance, the contrast of so much -comfort (on the luxurious couch of a roomy car) with -the experience of the previous night, made one feel -that the discomfort itself had been worth while.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As the colonel, the cheik and the officers in turn -brought me a glass of tea by way of nightcap, I said -to each: “How good it is to be here!”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span> - <h2 id='ch14' class='c009'>CHAPTER XIV</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>IN THE “TRAIN DE LUXE”—THE SUPREME GOOD FELLOWSHIP OF ENGLISH LAUGHTER—JOURNEYING TOWARDS THE CRADLE OF NEW TURKEY</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>It</span> was well past ten when I woke next morning. -Though the sun was blazing through the uncurtained -windows, I had slept undisturbed.</p> -<div id='i122' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i122.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A Battle Royal with my Tangled, Dusty Hair.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>There had, of course, been no chance of “undressing -for the night.” But I had been able to take off my -boots, and having a whole compartment to myself, -I was only too glad to take out my wire brush for the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>luxury of a “battle royal” with my tangled and dusty -hair.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was still only half awake and far too tired to think -of <i>les convenances</i>, when a smiling crowd of excited -and gesticulating Turks suddenly appeared on the -platform. Truth to tell, the six-days-and-five-nights’ -journey seemed like an eternity. I had forgotten -Smyrna—almost forgotten the war. Were these happy -children the “enemies” of my country?</p> - -<p class='c012'>A tactful little bird now reminded me that Turks -are not used to the vision of ladies “at the toilette,” -and it was, perhaps, a somewhat perverse form of -gratitude that tempted me to fill my rubber basin -from my host’s bottle of Evian in order to wash my -hands “under the table.”</p> - -<div id='i123' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i123.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A Bottle of Evian—Under the Table.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Despite haste and discretion, however, I experienced -an unusual sense of being dressed and clean, as I -eventually stepped out into the daylight to make the -acquaintance of Eski-Chéir.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I found the colonel on the platform talking with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>animation to a nice-looking Turkish general, who also, -it appeared, had a saloon, to which we all three soon -adjourned for coffee and talk. He, too, will scarcely -believe that I am English.... “I did not think Englishwomen -could laugh so heartily,” was his excuse for -scepticism.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“My dear sir,” I replied, “I was born laughing, -and shall keep it up to the bitter end. God has -given me a few gifts—not many—and that for which -I give most thanks is a keen sense of humour.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>So I trotted out all the experiences of my journey -one by one, not forgetting the Greek I had to “shake” -at Athens, and the Frenchman in the “Caracole.” -Convulsed with laughter, they one and all shouted: -“She is <i>not</i> English!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>This strange impression of our race prevails, I -know, also in France and America. They forget -Shakespeare’s Falstaff and the supreme “good fellowship -of English laughter.” French wit, no doubt, -reveals the swift play of a keener and more subtle -intellect; ours is a “midsummer madness” of warm -hearts in the Forests of Arden.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For my part, when the “literature” mistress -challenged her class to “hunt for humour” in “Julius -Cæsar,” I put my finger upon the Stage Direction—“Enter -Cæsar in his nightgown!” I could not then, -nor can I now, agree that Brutus’s wife’s distracted -hurrying away, and then recalling, the page for -news of his master is anything but tragic pathos.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Few nations, again, will enjoy as we do a joke against -themselves. When I published a “Turkish Woman’s -Impressions of Europe,” about ten years ago, in which -she so happily hit off the weakness of our Western -civilisations, the Continent was up in arms. It was -an <i>English</i> critic who gaily expressed his “most sincere -thanks” for so “thorough a dressing-down.” No -publisher in the States would take the following book, -with Americans as “victims,” for fear of his “sensitive” -and “patriotic” (!) readers.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At a half-ruined restaurant near the station, over -<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>the most excellent meal I ever tasted in such miserable -surroundings, we had a long talk with General Mouedine -Pasha and his two sons about politics and some -curious stories they had heard somewhere about -England. It is natural that these men should not -be interested in any other subject. The general, he -told us, had been in and out of prison for the last -fifteen years—exiled by Abdul Hamid, escaping, and -caught again. After the Armistice he left Constantinople, -at great personal risk, to join M. Kemal -Pasha; was, for a time, Governor of Adana, and is -now taking up his post as Ambassador at Teheran. -Most of the leading soldier Nationalists—M. Kemal -Pasha and Fethi Bey among the rest—seem to have -been his grateful pupils, and, naturally, he is a proud -man to-day.</p> - -<p class='c012'>If only the authorities at Lausanne had known or -could imagine anything about life in Angora during -the last three years! All the best men exiled, persecuted, -and imprisoned. What wonder that Nationalism -had grown into a religion!</p> - -<p class='c012'>He was indignant at the suggestion that French -officers, or a British strategist, were “wanted” in -the Turkish Army. “My pupils,” he said, “are more -fitted to <i>give</i> instruction than to receive it....</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The buying and selling of munitions, the haggling -and bargaining introduced in the army—all that ought -<i>not</i> to be—came from Germany.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He was not the <i>only</i> “big man” in Turkey to lose -faith in their war-ally, or to recognise some compensation -for their terrible defeat in the freedom from Teuton -rule that it involved; but they are not, therefore, -any more kindly disposed to the yoke of “the -Allies.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Eski-Chéir had been one of the most flourishing -towns in Anatolia, and was destined from its position -as a junction between two big railway lines—Angora -and Baghdad—to become more prosperous year by -year. Every town, of course, has its own story of -looting, “violation of women,” and fire; but to the -spectator all now seem very much alike, and what -<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>chiefly impressed one here was the amazing rapidity -with which it had started to recover.</p> - -<p class='c012'>If the produce be only lifted from the backs of -patient and sure-footed donkeys on to the Mother Earth, -it is, after all, extraordinary that there should -yet be any produce left. Peasants ready to walk -miles along muddy roads to sell their goods in such small -quantities for so little profit will scarcely welcome the -cost of transport by modern methods. For them, time -is <i>not</i> money, and four weeks’ tramp beside a donkey is -far cheaper than a few hours by train.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It surprised me to find the curio-merchants already -again supplied with their tempting wares: mother-o’-pearl -ikons and other relics, old coffee-mills, coral -seals, cameos, etc. Trade was fairly brisk, being run -on the sound basis of quick profits and small returns, -fair prices and honest dealing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The attractions, of course, come nowhere near those -of the famous bazaar at Constantinople; but I was -grateful to find so little haggling over the price. I -remember two types of merchants at Constantinople. -One kindly-looking old man with a long white beard -was sitting cross-legged over his charcoal fire, making -himself a cup of coffee. When I inquired about a -fine Persian dressing-gown that took my fancy, he -simply answered: “Much too dear for you,” and so -dismissed me. The other always asked for three times -what he was prepared to accept—a most irritating -habit. When I visited the bazaar in Turkish dress, -my Turkish sister, of course a real Turk, asked if -he really found he <i>could</i> rob people in this way. “I -never rob Turks,” was the naïve reply, “only the English -and the Americans.” The temptation to disclose -my nationality was strong, but in those less liberal -days it might have meant “trouble” for my friend.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here I soon saw it would be waste of time to visit -<i>any</i> bazaar after the French colonel. He counts it a -day wasted if he has not found some treasures, which -are all sent for him to Paris.... “Poor man,” as -my friend the innkeeper would have remarked, “he is -so far from home!”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>In Eski-Chéir before the fire, however, art had been -altogether put away for munitions. The factories -worked day and night, cannons and lorries in readiness -all the time. One day we shall learn something at -least of the ceaseless efforts by which victory was -snatched out of nothing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We left the town at about ten o’clock in the evening. -At last we are actually <i>en route</i> for Angora. “I -cannot even yet quite believe,” said I, “that I am really -starting, that I shall really arrive.” I heard that -some American women (more enterprising, or less -expensive, than their confrères) have reached Ismidt, -but can get no further.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was, indeed, “hard-going,” and I believe that -the colonel’s “salon” only just came in time. I was -told, four years ago, by the eminent Jean Louis -Faure, that <i>if</i> I survived at all it would be as a permanent -and complete invalid. Yet I have faced more -since then than most “strong” people would care to -attempt.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turks, remember, who could not obtain or -afford a yaili (the native carriage) were driven to -“walk” the eight hundred miles to Angora in a climate -that more than doubles the strain on one’s physique.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>As soon as we meet new faces, the questions about -Lloyd George all begin over again.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told the story of <i>Les Misérables</i>. How the -ambitious Welsh lad and his uncle, the village cobbler, -“worked at the French” together in the old days, one -looking out “what a word meant” in the dictionary, -the other discovering how to pronounce it. Mr. Lloyd -George had often declared that the policy of his whole -career came straight from his first study of that immortal -classic—“to devote his life to helping the -‘under dog.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Perhaps he has lost the copy of <i>Les Misérables</i> he -used always to carry with him, and so missed the road -to that magnificent goal; so, at least, it seemed to -my Turkish audience. “That is the man, a democrat -<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>who could understand and appreciate our fight for -freedom; what has driven him to hate us?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I could only repeat such “explanation” as I had -been able to offer before to their compatriots of the -mountains.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The colonel was kind enough to suggest how much -I might have saved England had I been here a year -ago.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is very doubtful,” I answered, “whether I -could have done much, even then. Our Government -makes up its own mind without listening to outside -information. As a matter of fact, Colonel Aubrey -Herbert, a <i>recognised</i> authority on the Near East, called -twice at 10, Downing Street, to urge that very scheme -upon the Premier’s private secretary, Mr. Philip Kerr, -but they preferred to keep me in England.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But why is your ‘intelligence’ so badly -managed?” he asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What evidence can you produce for such an -assumption?” was my retort.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There could surely be no other explanation of -your leaving the Greeks without support ... unless, -indeed, they are right who whisper that Mr. Lloyd -George actually wanted the opposing armies to exterminate -each other. His conduct, certainly, lent -colour to the charge.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>But I refused to be drawn.... “‘Intelligence’ is -not my province,” I answered, “although I <i>can</i> say -that the Turks were not served much better in that -respect.... They won by ‘faith’; what we of the -West call ‘superstition.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was able to more or less look after the son of an -eminent Turkish lady writer during his studies in -Paris, just after the Treaty of Sèvres. His father, -one of the leading Governors under the last administration, -had given up all to follow M. Kemal Pasha. -When I asked the boy whether they had any hope of -success, he just flashed out: “They <i>must</i> succeed. -His stars are ‘right.’ He <i>could</i> not fail!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>On the other hand, Turkish diplomats, one and all, -declared he would fail.</p> - -<div id='i128' class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span> -<img src='images/i128.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>GENERAL MOUEDDINE PASHA.<br /><span class='sc'>Military Instructor of Mustapha Kemal Pasha.<br />Turkish Ambassador at Teheran (Persia).</span><br />p. 128</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>“Must such splendid efforts be thrown away?” I -sadly answered; “are there <i>no</i> circumstances that -<i>might</i> arise to justify at least some hope?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“My dear lady,” was the courteous and grave -reply, “we <i>wish</i> him success, as you do; but you -have too much good sense to believe in fairy tales. -The Pasha has neither money nor munitions. He -has the Greeks (well supported by the Allies and the -Sultan) against him on the north, the Armenians on -the east, the French on the south. He will put up a -brave fight and perish in the attempt. The days of -miracles are past.” But the miracle happened!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>And now, as the train followed the line of the -victorious army, our young men took out their maps -and eagerly pointed out to us these, now almost sacred, -landmarks. Their father, at the same time, explained -many technical details—why such and such a position -could not be maintained, where the Greek strategy -had failed, how General Trécoupis (now thankful, no -doubt, to be in the Turks’ hands at Eski-Chéir) had -surrendered to a mere lieutenant.</p> - -<p class='c012'>By way of return for all this interesting information, -I told a few simple stories about the Royal Family -of Great Britain, which I have always found interest -these people far more than my “grander,” or more -romantic, reminiscences from the Courts of Europe.</p> - -<p class='c012'>They are never tired of hearing that our Edward -VII. only required <i>one</i> “gentleman in waiting” at a -time at Marienbad; whereas the Czar (Ferdinand) -of Bulgaria was always accompanied by a suite of -eight or nine. Sir Edward Goschen was instructed to -dress, like his royal master, in a green Tyrolese hat -with its little shooting feather. He was sent to sit on -“the king’s bench” until the crowd had satisfied -their natural desires for “a good view,” and gone home -to breakfast. <i>Then</i> Edward VII. himself arrived.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I went on to tell of a Wagner concert, so crowded -that a certain little American lady of about seventy -quietly settled into the only empty seat that the King’s -<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>attendant just happened to have vacated. She simply -“refused to believe” the scandalised authorities -when they told her that she was sitting beside the -King of England. Edward enjoyed the joke, would -not allow “his friend,” to be disturbed, and chattered -merrily to her between the music to the end of the -programme.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Her countrywomen, in Ascot gowns, driving their -four-horse carriages up to the golf-course at Marienbad, -<i>in search of</i> an introduction, did not find His -Majesty so easy to approach. The most determined -of them all (up against something that “money” could -not buy) was driven to use her scissors to cut off a -few hairs from his dog’s tail. “At least,” she said, -“if I have no souvenir of the King of England, I have -a bit of his dog,” and she mounted the hairs in a -locket and wore it until she died.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You see,” I concluded, “how much these ‘democrats’ -admire a king. Will the fever, I wonder, ever -take root in the East?”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>When we reached the Sakharia, the eyes of the -general were filled with tears, and it was some time -before he managed to speak of what <i>had been</i>. It -seemed, indeed, too good to be true. The Greeks -had penetrated to Sakharia; and now they were -driven out of the whole country!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Without our Pasha,” said he, “we should still -be slaves. To-day, none dare fail in duty to our -Fatherland!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>They were all this man’s pupils, these Nationalist -leaders. To his fine, upright character they owe an -example they are proud to acknowledge. His sons -told me that he was in exile for six years, and they had -no idea where he was! It was easy to see how they -admired him and how devoted he was to them; and -now his work at Teheran will not be easy; such men -give their whole lives to service!</p> - -<p class='c012'>We have travelled quickly and comfortably over -this desolate country; the little engine, <i>stoked with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>wood</i>, is tugging its long burden up the long heights.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Look,” said the colonel, “there is Angora.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That little village perched on a hill?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is not a village,” he corrected, “it is a town.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet somehow I felt this was not what I had -expected ... “such a tiny speck of a place to bear -so great a name!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Well, I had my first peep at that which I had come -so far to see—the cradle of the New Turkey. Soon -I shall meet the hero of the Nationalists!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span> - <h2 id='ch15' class='c009'>CHAPTER XV</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>ANGORA I.—ENTERING A “BROTHERHOOD”—AN ATMOSPHERE OF CAMARADERIE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>“Well</span>, what did you expect to see?” asked the -colonel.</p> -<p class='c012'>“Really, I don’t know exactly,” said I, “but -something different.... I suppose I am foolish -enough to look for some sort of likeness to our Western -towns.... There is a certain resemblance in parts -to a town in the Rhondda Valley, except that the Welsh -mining districts are sordid and this is picturesque.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Why not leave it as it is,” said the colonel—“unique -and impossible to classify? Begin your -explorations at my house, where you can enjoy another -glass of warm tea.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>This, in fact, was the first house I entered, and the -last I left, in Angora.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On a crowded platform—for the arrival of a train -is an event—stood a Chef de Cabinet of the Ministry -of Foreign Affairs and other officials. The Prime -Minister embraced his old friend the cheik, and carried -him off to his simple two-roomed dwelling.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I met Fethi Bey in London, it seemed incredible -that he should have been treated as an enemy -and exiled to Malta. Now that I came to know Rauf -Bey, it was impossible not to feel the same. Away -in these distant mountains, he speaks the most excellent -English, without even an accent.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I remember a merchant of Smyrna, who complained -to me that “these horrible people expect us to learn -their language, to speak and write it.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>“And why not?” I answered. “They learn -ours.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Oh, that’s quite different. Besides, Turkish is -much too difficult.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I reminded him of Mrs. John Burns. When her -husband became a Cabinet Minister, a certain fine -lady decided to amuse herself by inviting “the man’s -wife” to tea. Her note ran: “Do excuse my not -having called on you. It is so far for me to come from -Mayfair to Battersea.” Mrs. Burns replied: “It is -exactly the same distance from Battersea to Mayfair.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That is a charming story, but it will not persuade -me to learn Turkish.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Prime Minister, for some reason wearing a fez -in place of the picturesque kalpak, brought me -apologies for Fethi Bey’s absence. “It is Friday, and -he has not been to the office all day.” We had all -forgotten that it was the Moslem Sunday.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Now we are going to be friends,” I said later to -Rauf Bey, “we must arrange ‘the same day’ for -our prayers of thanksgiving for peace.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is you who will have to change,” he replied, -smiling; “you must learn to go our ways now.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here, indeed, at this far-away little station, one -seemed to be entering some kindly “brotherhood.” -Everyone was wringing the colonel’s hand, embracing -the general and the cheik. I felt, too, that my fellow-passengers -were telling them about “a new member” -they wanted to introduce, saying heartily: “She will -soon know all about the rules of our club.” Everyone -here plainly “stood for” the same ideals. We are -talking like friends already, without the formality of -an introduction. We are all working for a definite and -well-defined goal. Houses are scarcely needed for hospitality -in a town with this atmosphere of <i>camaraderie</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I found myself chatting with the Prime Minister as -though we were old members of the same club. When, a -few minutes later, I described the unconscious influence -to the colonel, he only said to his friends: “See how -quickly she catches the atmosphere of this delightful -place!”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>Here it is sympathy with Turkey in her bid for -freedom that gives one the <i>entré</i> to the society, as -in London one gains admission to the club, in my case -for example, as a writer of books. There is no sense -of suspicion. You feel you have a right to be here -all the time. If you were not <i>trusted</i> you would not -be allowed over the threshold.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Soldiers and refugees, officers and deputies, they are -all on the platform. Everybody has seen us, everybody -has greeted us; next morning the kindest little paragraph -of welcome appears in the newspapers. I have -completely forgotten the war!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The colonel lives on the first floor of what was in -the “beginning of days” the Station Hotel. M. -Kemal Pasha himself lived there for a time, and now -it is the “French Embassy.” Fortunately, the colonel -has schooled himself into <i>imagining</i> a house is warm, -whatever the temperature; and I found him very comfortably -installed, with plenty of fresh air and a fine -open view. Within, however, there were, except in -the bureau, no rugs or carpets on the bare boards.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To secure the luxury of a European wash, I decided -to spend the night in the station, where the young -secretary gladly gave up his room to me, making a -bedroom of the bureau for himself and the colonel’s -aide-de-camp, Captain Hikmet Bey, after we had all -enjoyed a very appetising little meal.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The “Catholic” servant, however, was frankly -annoyed at having to wait on an Englishwoman—“that -hateful intriguing race that killed my husband!” -He was killed, as a matter of fact, by the Greeks, but -we are, not unnaturally, held responsible, and once -more I realised how little “brotherhood” there exists -between Christians. I confess it is always with an -effort that I remember Armenians <i>are</i> Christians. In -the end, however, Marie decided that I was not really -English, and we became the best of friends. When I -left Angora she shed many tears, kissing my hand, -placing it against her forehead in the picturesque custom -of her race, and begging me to come back soon.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I handed her my rubber hot-bottle, she -<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>apparently supposed I did not care to use the jug which -already stood on the table, and filled it with <i>cold</i> -water! When she understood that the water must be -hot, she brought it back to me to wait and watch what -I would do with it. The idea of putting it in my bed -made her laugh heartily; and then she decided to sit -down and see whatever would happen next!</p> - -<p class='c012'>But I was tired, and, with none to interpret, began -to wonder how I could send her away. My phrase-book, -as usual, did not provide the clue, so I merely -pointed to the door, saying <i>kapou</i> (a door), which -luckily had the desired effect. But she was back again -as soon as she dared in the morning, to enjoy more -laughter at the sight of the hot-bottle by my side.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The principal road from the station to “Holy -Angora” is wide enough for three or four carts to pass.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here are two-horse carriages, their primitive harness -decorated with turquoise beads, driven by picturesque, -shabby Arabaje (<i>i.e.</i>, coachmen) in turbans of many -colours. Also the yaili, so called from their springs, -and the famous Anatolian log-carriages, drawn by -bullocks. By the <i>side</i> of the road, sunk in the snow or -mud, are the heavy carts drawn by buffaloes and driven -by women, who wear the large, baggy, Anatolian -trousers, and conceal their hair beneath a scarf. Their -clothes, poor souls, are so nearly covered with patches -that some of them seem “all patch.” The men all -wear kalpaks, and we see the peasants (men and -women) riding their laden donkeys or trudging along -beside beasts as patient as themselves. They look as -though they had walked straight out of the Bible.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The main road passes the Grand National Assembly -on the way to the few shops. The restaurants make a -fair show of Turkish delicacies, like your ekmek-kadaïf, -and kébab. We pass two hans (<i>i.e.</i>, inns) as -primitive in comfort as appearance, built of mud in -which large holes can be seen, and full of danger to the -unwary on their rickety staircases. The “commercials” -in their yailis, on camels or donkeys, -however, can find no other or better accommodation. -There are pictures of Ghazi Pasha all over the town, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>and in one or two bookshops you can also buy his -principal colleagues, patriotic postcards, and other -“Nationalist” pictures in gaudy colours.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At quaint little booths in the market-place we find -a tempting array of fruit, vegetables, and meat, bread -and cheese, raisins, nuts, and boots!</p> - -<p class='c012'>And, finally, we reach a few dwelling-houses of wood, -stone, or mud that do not seem to have been built on -any plan, and now look more irregular than ever -because of the huge “gap” on the hillside caused, of -course, by the usual fire!</p> - -<div id='i136' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i136.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>The Market-place at Angora.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>The weatherbeaten mud and thatch dwellings are -whitewashed inside, and have plain wooden doors -with handsome knockers and quaint, huge locks. They -are mostly heated by mangals of burning charcoal -that give out poisonous fumes. However, the wood-stoves -are not much better, as they quickly produce -an intense heat and then die down as quickly, besides -the danger of setting the whole place on fire.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is difficult to find one’s way in Angora, but the -coachmen are wonderful. They “take” anything in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>their headlong course, so that one is constantly jolted -out of one’s seat as the carriages swing from angle -to angle, up and down the steep slopes. To start from -the Ottoman Bank on a wet day requires a double dose -of fatalism.</p> - -<div id='i137' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i137.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>“The carriages swing from angle to angle.”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Ismet Pasha was much amused when I told him that -I always said my prayers before starting out for a -drive, and uttered some “holy ejaculation” every -five minutes of the way. Even a handsome car like -M. Kemal Pasha’s can be seen dancing about like -Shakespeare’s elf—“over hill, over dale, through bush, -through briar!” A chauffeur who can pilot you -through Angora could negotiate any country under -the sun.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was as well, perhaps, that my host, Feszi Bey, -had arranged for me to be driven to his house under the -cover of darkness, when pitfalls were not so obvious. -He is Minister of Public Works, and was at the moment -attending the debate on the dethronement of the -Sultan. As none of his family speak French, Osman -Noury Bey, of the Ottoman Bank, had been instructed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>to act as my escort, and we found them all in the -sitting-room, with its lattice windows at each end, -round as large a fire as it was safe to have. The heat -was almost overpowering after our brisk drive in the -night air.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Osman Noury Bey was obliged to leave me on the -threshold, as he could not enter the women’s apartments. -While the <i>harīm</i> and sex-separation are -not now rigidly enforced by the most educated Turks, -they have not by any means yet disappeared. I found -that the whole “woman” question was really on much -the same footing in Anatolia as in other countries; -that is, “liberty” varies with education, upbringing, -and surroundings. In this house the women were -closely veiled and dependent upon their own sex for -all their pleasures and companionships. Osman Bey -himself is thoroughly liberal-minded and would have -allowed his wife full freedom, provided only her hair -was covered, but she goes out very little and clearly -prefers the old ways.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On the other hand, the wife of Djavid Bey, ex-Minister -of Finance, goes to private dances; while -Halidé Hanoum goes everywhere and has mixed freely -with men for many years. Yet I, a woman, have -never seen her hair unveiled.</p> - -<p class='c012'>While we were waiting for my host’s return, I did -my best to “make conversation” by signs and gestures, -and was really surprised at my success. You can -convey far more than one would suppose when you -seriously endeavour to <i>make</i> your company understand. -I had my book, too, of “conversations in Turkish,” -and so managed to remark: “The house is large—the -fire is warm—I like a warm fire.” Had I depended -upon the women in Turkey, I might soon have learned -something of their language.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our host arrives, and he is kindness and courtesy -itself.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At about half-past nine, his Excellency asked me -when I would like to dine.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Whenever you are ready,” I replied.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Oh, no,” was the courteous reply, “it is when <i>you</i> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>are ready. <i>Vous maître maison, moi votre service.</i>” -Too charming a thought for one to examine the -accuracy of the language!</p> - -<p class='c012'>He was always amused to see me “hunting” in -the dictionary; and as I could <i>never</i> get used to “beginning -at the end and reading backwards,” my most -painstaking researches often produced strange results.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Like most of the Nationalist ministers, Feszi -Bey is a man of about forty, tall, well-built, dark, with -large dark eyes. He is one of the richest men in -Asia Minor, owning about eighteen villages in Diarbékir, -and is immensely proud of his sons. His house -in Constantinople was “requisitioned” for English -officers and left almost in ruins; but he has large -estates and many houses in his native land. Here, in -Angora, he was paying what seemed to be a heavy rent -for somewhere to live, considering the scanty furniture -and lack of comforts in this house.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The ground-floor was occupied by kitchens and -another room which the merciful man had given up to -his horses, leaving his carriage outside in the rain and -snow. Though not in any way like a stable, the animals -were clearly well-cared-for here. A very steep wooden -staircase, certainly <i>not</i> built for ladies’ high heels, -leads to a central room—almost a “lounge”—which -opens into four others. It was dimly lit by candles, -a survival from war-days when petrol was worth its -weight in gold—literally two hundred francs a litre.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Feszi Bey has been in Angora ever since the movement -began, and has acquired that striking expression -of a set, firm resolve which I notice on the faces of all -his colleagues. I asked him whether he did not “sometimes -tire of living in this bare and rough Asiatic fortress, -so far from all means of culture or distraction.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We have our work,” he replied; “too absorbing -and too important to leave us time for complaint. We -do not even ‘miss’ our comforts, or need more than -an hour or two’s sleep. There is so much to plan for -our new country, the day, and most of the night, are not -long enough.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here one naturally feels far more in “New Turkey” -<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>than at Smyrna; the impression grows on one day by -day. At Lausanne I tried to make them understand -that they were still busying themselves over a Turkey -that is dead.... “You can’t talk to these people as -you were accustomed to speak under the Sultans, -they would not understand you.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>They only smiled at a woman carried away by her -emotions. But they were wrong; this is no question -of sex. The very ramparts, clear-cut in the distance -like gigantic razor-blades, the very remains of the -Roman, even the Seldjoucide and Osman, civilisations -which halted among these hills, will bear witness to the -birth of a new nation!</p> - -<p class='c012'>As I gaze out over the mountain-tomb of Timourlin -a voice seems to cut through the chill air: “Here is -a glory that will not perish. Here, where the civilisations -of the world’s childhood have flourished; -here, on the ruins of the great Empire of the Ancients; -here beginneth a new Turkey, the democrat -of democracies!”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span> - <h2 id='ch16' class='c009'>CHAPTER XVI</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>ANGORA II.—AT THE HOME OF MY KIND AND COURTEOUS HOST</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>The</span> next morning we breakfast, “when I am ready,” -which is 8.30. My host’s face beams with delight, -and the generous <i>menu</i> could hardly fail to put -“the guest” in good spirits—toast and boiled eggs -(my allowance being half a dozen a day), biscuits and -cheese, olives, and glasses of tea.</p> -<p class='c012'>In Nationalist houses “reading the papers” and -discussing foreign telegrams have become almost a -religious rite. This morning, clearly, there is “good -news”! The very air we breathe seems lighter, -faces look less anxious, men are greeting each other in -hopeful tones! What can it be?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Of course, I am not kept long in suspense—“Mr. -Lloyd George is a fallen angel!” Well, certainly, I -shall not go into mourning; but, at the same time, the -animosity thus so sharply revealed makes one sad -for one’s own country.</p> - -<p class='c012'>With their inborn tact, my friends suggest that we -all go to the Pasha’s to celebrate, <i>not</i> the fall of a “Lost -Leader,” but the prospect of the Conservatives’ -return to power.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To them, as in England, the change is welcome for -the long vista of possibilities it opens up. Shall we -resume the Beaconsfield traditions without Gladstone’s -sentimentality? Will Mr. Bonar Law find -means to justify our faith? It is obviously early days -yet for any assurance in prophecy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet, if the exit of Mr. Lloyd George delighted the -Continent and the Near East—as if a modern Nero had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>been assassinated—I, for one, could only think with -sorrow upon the “splendour of opportunity” which -he has missed and lost. No man, since the world began, -ever held in his hands such a power for good in England -and among all nations. He could have raised the -prestige of Empire to even greater heights and led the -councils for peace.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Almost the contrary has come to pass. To-day, -certainly, our faith, our good word, our justice, and our -fair play (without which England is <i>not</i> England) are -almost everywhere subjected to suspicion and distrust.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When Turks tell me it is as easy “to buy” one of -our officers as those of other nations, that they have -done so over and over again in Constantinople, I try -to say that it cannot be. When my host tells me they -paid £6,000 sterling for our men’s assistance to charter -a boat and escape from Malta, I can only admit, in -silence, that they did—somehow—escape. When I -learn that at least <i>one</i> correspondent in Constantinople -is subsidised by the Greeks, I can bear no more. -Whence have bribery and corruption invaded our -country against the traditions of centuries? I told -them I used to feel that “I was sitting on a rock amidst -howling and roaring seas; now even the rock itself is -sinking.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>To pay honour where honour is due, I compliment -the Minister on the splendid “foreign” news of both -his papers—the <i>Tanine</i> and the <i>Vakit</i>. I wish to-day -that I knew the language and could read the articles by -Hussein Djahid and Ahmet Emine. Even translated, -I find them full of sound commonsense and beautifully -written. If at times they are bitter, there is none -of that sensationalism which our Press has lately -borrowed from the States.</p> - -<p class='c012'>My host is due at his office at 9.30, but, though -he has ventured to glance at his watch, the talk -continues. At about 10.30, I casually ask: “Are you -not going to your office to-day?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“When you allow it,” was the startling answer.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Now, surely, time is of importance at least to a -responsible Minister? Yet he will cheerfully give up -<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>an hour of his sleep (for that is what it will mean) to -my entertainment, because I have forgotten <i>my</i> duty.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do not hesitate,” he went on, “to tell me of -anyone you would specially like to meet, man or woman. -It shall be arranged.... Fethi Bey will lunch with -you to-day. Whom else shall I invite?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I said that I should, one day, like to see Younous -Nadi Bey, the editor of <i>Yeni Gun</i> and President of -Commission for Foreign Affairs in the Grand National -Assembly. “He must be interesting, since our Press -describe him as a ‘man who ought to be shot’!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I found this gentleman, as I expected, well worth -going out of one’s way to meet. Without the exquisite -manners of Hussein Djahid Bey, he is one of those men -who, having made up his own mind about right and -wrong, never hesitates to act.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At any rate, until he <i>is</i> shot, he will not allow the -Government to sleep, nor to trust Europe without -sufficient guarantees. He graciously wrote in <i>Yeni -Gun</i> that I had given him some very valuable information -about our policy. I certainly did my best to -explain Lord Curzon’s position. Neither he nor Fethi -Bey, however, could understand how he could stay in -the new Cabinet. I scarcely expected that they, or -any foreigner, could realise the full measure of England’s -folly in putting the whole machinery of government -into one man’s undisputed control. Like everyone -else nominally in power, the Foreign Minister -became a mere cypher.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Why did he stand it?” they asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“For the moment, no protests would have had -any effect. His resignation might easily have brought -in a far more complete collapse, and, meanwhile, he -probably felt that the interests of Conservatism were, -to a large extent, in his hands. Lord Curzon knows -the East, and he knows what <i>ought</i> to be done. As -Goethe says: ‘Between the knave and the fool, one -should always choose the knave.’... <i>Gegen die -Dumheit, kämpfen die Götte selbst vergebens.</i> (Even -the gods fight in vain against stupidity.)”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Again and again I try to assure them that our -<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>policy in Turkey is going to “come right.” When -they politely retorted that we “did not seem in any -great hurry to start turning,” I could only suggest -that “Empires, like whales, could not quickly change -their direction.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Younous Nadi Bey is a most interesting talker. -Like so many of the Nationalists, he “comes from” -Malta; like them all, he loves his country sincerely, -and is eager to protect her. Can we expect these men -to trust the Power that, only three months ago, was -doing its best to destroy them? For myself, I could -only hope that we should soon give them sound reason -to change their opinions.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I afterwards paid a visit to Younous Nadi at the -offices of the <i>Yeni Gun</i>. After coffee in his primitive -“editorial sanctum,” I was shown over all the “works.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The illustrations are prepared with a hand machine, -which reminded me of our school magazine activities; -but the “results” are, if anything, rather better than -our own “dailies” achieve.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The operator had built his bed over the solitary -press, in part, no doubt, to save time, but possibly also -with the idea of protecting his “treasure.” The -editor apologised for the lack of all our modern processes -of production. I was the more inclined to -compliment him upon his conquest of difficulties.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is surely a <i>tour de force</i> to “get the news” from -this Anatolian machinery, and there are sixty papers -in Anatolia!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>We were staying in the Hadji Baïram quarter of Angora, -so called from the mosque and turbé erected in -memory of that sainted man. My host’s house stands -on the edge of a hillock, exposed on all sides to the -rain or wind or snow. No carriage can drive up to -the doors, and, too often, that last hundred yards’ -walk means being soaked to the skin. Any number of -stray dogs and cats find shelter in its many doorways, -howling and whining all through the night.</p> - -<div id='i144' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i144.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>GRAND NATIONAL ASSEMBLY AT ANGORA.<br />p. 141</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>My guide is supposed to call for me at ten o’clock -<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>in the morning, but I have often enough rejoiced at -his indifference to the clock. There is so much to -sketch from our front door: an unused cemetery, -with moss-covered stèles (tombstones) lying in picturesque -confusion; a tumble-down shepherd’s hut; -a crumbling mosque; mud houses in need of repair; and -for background, a steep hill crowned by Timourlin’s -tomb.</p> - -<div id='i145' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i145.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>“There is so much to sketch from our front door.”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>While painting, I have counted just four passers-by—two -men leading their fruit-laden donkeys, and two -women taking their asses to drink. No artist can -resist Oriental landscapes; and genius, I suppose, -would hardly remember to share my longing for nice -warm “Western” baths in an atmosphere that -means “microbes” in summer and in winter all kinds -of discomfort.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The “sights” for tourists do not delay one many -days. There are excellent “Red Cross” hospitals, -a military hospital, an école normale for girls, a military -school, the Ministries, town gardens, the Armenian -<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>Orphanage, the “Embassies,” and the Ottoman Bank. -One can also enjoy long drives through miles of -uncultivated land.</p> - -<p class='c012'>These various “institutions,” particularly the -educational, are full of interest if one had time to -thoroughly investigate the whole system, since probably -no civilisation in the world differs so radically from our -own.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Explorations, however extensive, must all be over -before five o’clock. For as the eastern sun sets in its -glory, we all go home—ministers and deputies to plan -and work, the rest of the population to talk and wonder -what the “great folk” are doing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I never understood how all the people managed to -hide themselves in so few houses. Turks, we all know, -can perform miracles with mattresses and divans; but -even their ingenuity can seldom have overcome so -“tough a problem” as the inhabitants, official and -civil, of Angora.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There <i>is</i>, admittedly, a housing “problem,” and -building has not yet begun. As Angora is to be the -permanent seat of Government, they cannot much -longer delay the important consideration of providing -for Foreign Embassies.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have already driven many times past the Assembly -(which closely resembles one of our county clubs); -I have seen the admirably-arranged flower-gardens -and heard the band. To-morrow, for the first time, -I am to <i>enter</i> the Nationalist Parliament!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span> - <h2 id='ch17' class='c009'>CHAPTER XVII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>ANGORA III.—THE MARVELLOUS ATMOSPHERE OF A GREAT BIRTH</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>In</span> all my wanderings, East and West, over Europe and -America, I have nowhere been so much thrilled by a -dominating sense of “real effort” as at Angora. -Against a background of prehistoric civilisations, -the human bees swarm in and out of their Parliament, -buzzing away night and day, a <i>free and independent -Turkey</i>.</p> -<p class='c012'>What will their “delegation” accomplish at -Lausanne? Is the war only postponed, or will there -be peace? “At one moment our spirits rise to the most -daring hopes; we see ourselves marching into Constantinople. -At the next, Younous Nadi Bey reports -‘grave news’ from abroad, and preparations for war -are resumed.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The colonel persists in “doubt” towards England. -“Do you know,” said I, “I am astonished at my own -superiority?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He was not convinced, but demanded chapter and -verse.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We both love Turkey; but I also love your -country and you dislike mine. Therefore, am I not -immensely your superior?”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>In a sense, no doubt, we exaggerate things away -here in Angora. If Europe could ever realise what -“a free and independent Turkey” really means to her -own people, the miracle would still seem no more -than one tiny step forward in the interests of the world. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>Yet sometimes I wonder over the words of Cardinal -Gasparri: “Turkey has not only dictated to England, -but to France and Italy as well.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>And now, here in Angora, I see them coming along -their one wide road. All mingled without a thought -of social distinctions; all intent upon the same goal—their -country’s freedom; all alike proud of the price -they have paid—officers and deputies, ministers and -civil servants, soldiers, peasants, and caravan-drivers. -Are not these, then, the one true democracy of the -world?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If I resent being called American,” I told my -friends here, “it certainly is <i>not</i> because I dislike -democracy. In Western practice, alas, it has been -like ‘freedom for women’—so imperfectly carried -out.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>From its original bungalow design, the building of -the Grand Nationalist Assembly still retains a certain -resemblance to the club-pavilion. But considerable -extensions are being put forward as rapidly as a climate -that only varies from ten to fifteen degrees below -zero will permit; while its commanding position, and -the care bestowed upon the entrance and grounds, are -admirably calculated to uphold the honour and dignity -of the Nationalist flag overhead.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is a large ante-room on the left as you enter, -where I generally spent a good part of the day, after -my first visit to the Assembly, occasionally finding my -way into the actual Debate. There were always coffee -and cigarettes in the ante-room; and it was there I -met practically all the ministers and deputies, who must, -at last, have grown weary of my endless questions -on every conceivable aspect of their ideals and their -activities. “You must accept me,” I said, in half-serious -apology, “as a self-constituted Father Confessor” -to the new nation he loves and admires so -much.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Across the corridor, too, I was allowed sometimes -to say “good afternoon” over a cup of coffee to “the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>Pasha” (as M. Kemal is here known to all) in his -Presidential Bureau.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Honestly, I believe the men “understood” all -my questions, however indiscreet, and did not take -offence. They seemed so eager for me to meet <i>everyone</i> -and learn <i>everything</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was, indeed, a very pleasant and most human -pursuit of knowledge—a continual succession of brilliant -and zealous men, interpreting themselves and their -dreams to an eager listener.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Among other matters, I was particularly anxious -to know whether Constantinople or Angora was to be the -<i>permanent</i> capital of the new State, and to understand -all the reasons that would determine their choice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I love every inch of Constantinople. There are -obvious and important religious-historical associations -with its mosques and its public buildings; comfort -and dignity, space and beauty, are, as it were, -already at hand. Yet, paradoxical as it may seem, -to me it lacks, and will always lack, the marvellous -atmosphere of a Great Birth that so impresses one -in Angora.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turks, I found, were unanimous in having a -similar preference and, naturally, put forward more -precise and practical reasons for their choice. There -may be occasion for a <i>temporary</i> sojourn in Constantinople.</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>But</i> they want an “Asiatic” capital; they want -to govern their own country beyond the reach of -possible interference from dreadnoughts; they want -to maintain an intimate continuity of association with -the cradle of the movement that begot the State.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is, moreover, a primitive and Asiatic charm -in Angora, which should serve, as it were, to “keep -them holy” from the materialisms and the intrigues -of Western commerce-Empires.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here we are all brothers, fellow-labourers in a -common cause. All have suffered—at Malta, in Egypt, -or from corrupt Ottoman Imperial Government. -Could such union and natural intimacy exist elsewhere?</p> - -<p class='c012'>The “Brotherhood” of the East does not mean -<span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>anything like our various forms of socialism. The -“democracy” or almost complete ignoring of class -distinctions, does not destroy, or even modify, the -inherited respectful submission of illiterate peasants -to their “superiors” in intellect, authority, or military -power. Their religion teaches them to obey.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It <i>does</i> mean a universal recognition of identity of -interest; that the “good of all” is every man’s good -and every man’s responsibility; that all have <i>equal</i> -rights to know what can be done for them by the State, -to give their opinions, to express their wishes or their -complaints, and to be heard with courteous attention. -You feel that literally the whole nation is being busy -about its welfare and its hopes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>With us, of course, the submerged proletariat -could not practise (and would not be <i>allowed</i> to practise) -such <i>real</i> equality without perpetual self-assertion and -loud outcries against the “slavery” of the past.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Every Turk, in his degree, has always been content -with so little. His personal nature is uncomplaining, -from a combination of fine feeling and what -in us would mean lack of courage. Herein lies at once -their great weakness and their great strength.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Even the “new,” <i>soi-disant</i> “arrogant” Turk -does not complain. He may intend to, he may assure -us that he will. Western friends, no doubt, are often -tempted to wish him the master of a little more push -and noise. Longer intimacy and a more sympathetic -understanding, however, will cure us of this mistake. -Were he not so supersensitive all the time, did he -attempt our rush methods of progress, he would -soon cease to be himself and lose the fine mystic -idealism for which no sacrifice has been too great, no -passion of waiting and working too prolonged.</p> - -<p class='c012'>They will not yet set up a Republic, as we understand -the word. No nation on earth has less capacity -or inclination for Bolshevism. There could never be -any common chord between their faith and the -principles of Lenin and Trotsky. One hears so much -of the Red influence behind Nationalist demands -that it is well to meet these men in their own houses -<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>(truly “in labour” for a Nation’s birth) to see and -know that such accusations are absolutely false. -Soviet Russia has been a “friend in need” to the -Turks, and may befriend them again; but—<i>nothing -more</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The overpowering magnificence of the Bolshevik -Embassy may be a measure of their designs, but carries -no proof of achievement. When personages like -Fethi Bey and Rauf Bey are working in tiny offices -no better than glorified barns, one does not, of course, -like to see the Soviets in possession of the only large -and well-appointed building in the town. There is a -staff of seventy, including an army of typists. The -attachés are well supplied with cars, carriages, and -other Western luxuries, paying their bills with gold -Russian roubles.</p> - -<p class='c012'>They are allowed to distribute Red literature, -though no one in Turkey thinks of reading it. When -the Russians once sent a few Turks to Angora to preach -Bolshevism, they were promptly shot by the Nationalist -Government, <i>pour encourager les autres</i>! That was -the end of Bolshevist propaganda!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I asked one of the deputies what Turkey thought -she had gained from the Bolshevists. “When any -foreign representative visits a country as friendless as -Turkey,” he replied, “and says: ‘We thoroughly -approve of all your ideas and principles; we want to -show the world that we believe in the doctrines of -freedom and independence that you are preaching,’ -should we turn away from the only sympathy we -received?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Besides, we had many frontiers to defend; -at least by shaking hands with the Soviet we secured -<i>one</i> frontier. I know that this simple act of grateful -friendship has been much discussed and severely -criticised in Europe. It may have done us great harm; -but beggars cannot be choosers. Who else stretched -out a hand of friendship?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And gold and arms?” I inquired. “Forgive -my indiscretion.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“A very little gold,” he replied, “not a penny more -<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>than two million Turkish pounds. We had arms -from all nations, no more from Russia than from -Czecho-Slovakia. It will surprise you to know that -most of them were bought from England and Greece.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But where could you get the money?” I next -inquired.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“From our Anatolian population. In no other -country, would the people have accepted such -heavy taxation upon their lands, their cattle, and their -corn. No other country has been driven to resist the -whole world in defence of her very existence. Our -taxes must have reached 75 per cent. So you see -that if Europe does not care to help us, we can manage -for ourselves, and waste no tears over her in difference.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Certain European papers have published a report -that Camerad Areloff has been admitted to the Cabinet -Councils of New Turkey. When an Ambassador from -Angora was asked why her Government did not contradict -the obvious falsehood, he retorted: “If any paper, -in any country, announced that your British Ambassador -was taking part in the Councils of the French -Cabinet, would your Government protest?” It was -readily acknowledged that we should consider such a -statement to be entirely beneath our notice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Of course you would,” said the Turk; “and we -take precisely the same view.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>When I arrived at the Assembly one afternoon -the band was playing in the gardens—a strange accompaniment, -I thought, to the serious business of Parliament. -I asked one of the deputies whether this -was a national holiday, or a day of thanksgiving for -the arrival of the ex-Khalif at Malta? It was lucky -for me that the rather dangerous little joke only raised -a smile, while he explained that, as the Imperial Band -had fled from Constantinople with the Nationalists, -its loyalty must be acknowledged and its services -utilised. It did, in fact, play here for a short time -<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>every day. Now I remembered that I had heard bands -also in Smyrna and Constantinople.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was graciously suggested that I should choose -something myself for the band to play, and I asked that -we might have some Turkish music. One of the -deputies, it appeared, had written an opera; and -after listening with great pleasure to some selections -from his work, I was introduced to the composer. -The opera, naturally written round the cause, is full -of a pathos that brings tears to the eyes of an -understanding audience. They also gave me a patriotic -love song—the reunion of two lovers (Anatolia and -Roumelia) after long years of separation—which I -should like to have heard again and brought away with -me. Its beauty was haunting, though not quite easy -to follow at a first hearing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For Roumelia, we know, her share in the horrors of -war is over. Now it is Anatolia who must suffer. -Trouble was even fomented among the tribes. First, -the rebellion of the Roums, who were encouraged to -stand for private independence; then the hostility of -the Alewites, and the rebellion of Armenians in Cilicia; -finally a rising of Circassian tribes—Durdje, Khandeke, -Adabazar. Naturally again, the men to whom Abdul -Medjid had given the villayet of Sivas, after the horrible -massacres of 1864, were loyal to the Khalif’s successor -and furious at any idea of Nationalist interference.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The course of true love between these two nations -had not run smoothly. No wonder their reunion -should be celebrated with such appealing remorse!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The President of the Assembly, Mustapha Kemal -Pasha, was talking to me one day of the French -Revolution, and compared what he called his own “very -elegant” beginning with the poor little Assembly in -which Michelet had to work, with its single table and -just a couple of chairs!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here, in addition to the large ante-room and M. -Kemal’s bureau, the Vice-President, Adnan Bey, -husband of Halidé Edib Hanoum—has his bureau; -<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>and the actual Assembly Hall (built for concerts) is a -fine room, with its Strangers’ and Press Galleries, its -platform, and Speaker’s desk.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Speaker (in this case the Vice-President) -appeared to me to be ringing his bell for order all -the time; but the whole scene recalls the French -Chamber of Deputies, and here, too, they all talk at -once and interrupt each other without ceremony.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I mentioned to “the Pasha” how strange it -seemed to me that a Parliament should be so noisy, -Fethi Bey explained by describing to his chief the -dignity of our proceedings at Westminster.<a id='r1' /><a href='#f1' class='c018'><sup>[1]</sup></a> He proved, -once more, to be a keen observer, quick to decide and -act, though a man of few words. His cold reception -in London did not diminish his keen interest in -our civilisation, which appeals to him immensely, and -which he was always ready to praise. He told me he -wanted to go back to England, this time incognito, -and really master all the institutions, activities, and -policies of the country, in order to explain us to his -own people.</p> - -<div class='fn'> - -<div class='footnote' id='f1'> -<p class='c019'><span class='label'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. </span>Fortunately he saw us on our best behaviour at Westminster.</p> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c012'>I only wish that he could make time for such a -mission. The interfering propaganda of Europe has -made Turkish nationalism very touchy. One -certainly cannot blame them for any suspicion or -readiness to take offence, nor wonder at the reception -they might accord to offers of help from even the -best foreign specialists whom they had not themselves -elected to invite or consult. The fight for freedom -has been single-handed, and the price too heavy for -them to endure a thought of taking the slightest risk.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I noticed one more evidence of Democracy in this -Hall of Assembly. There is absolutely no formal -division, either by rank or office, in the seating accommodation. -The deputies sit anywhere, each at a sort -of school-desk, and when the President comes in to hear -<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>a debate, he simply looks round for the first vacant -seat.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is, however, a tribune for speeches in front -of the Speaker’s table, from which I enjoyed much -fluent and animated oratory. The Turks speak mostly -without notes and their constant gestures recall the -French. Others, however, no doubt partly from my -not knowing the language, produced a similar impression -to that of prayers in a Jewish synagogue.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Assembly is never closed, each member, -however, being entitled to three months’ holiday. -At this time about two hundred were in attendance -and crowded the hall to overflowing. The total -membership is three hundred and forty.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I am not allowed to forget that it was England who -really created the Nationalist Assembly—May 16, -1920, is the historic date—when we took possession of -the Turkish Parliament in Constantinople, and the -patriots (a hundred and fifty of the most enlightened -Turks) were imprisoned at Malta. Then it was that -Nationalism demanded, and set up, its own Assembly.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Men from Malta and the other deputies who escaped -from Constantinople form two-thirds of the present -Parliament; the remaining third have been elected -in the country itself.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Its composition is, indeed, unique, representing -all sorts and conditions of men, as varied in age, social -position, and dress as they are in ideas.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As I looked down from the gallery on this strange, -eager group, my eye was caught by the picturesque -figure of that “ancient of days,” the Deputy for -Dersim. Diab is a Kurd, ninety years old, who speaks -Turkish with difficulty. A tall, erect old man, with a -long white beard and large piercing blue eyes that need -no aid from glasses; he wears the tribal head-dress and -robes, carrying an amber chaplet. Though the only -deputy who can neither read nor write, he is a great -personage in his own country, the chief of an important -tribe. As, however, he has only twice spoken in the -Assembly, we may suppose that the mountain population -are generally able to settle their own grievances -<span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>outside Angora. He tells me that, like most of his -constituents, he lives almost entirely upon goats’ milk -and bread, and that, as many of them have reached -their hundred and twentieth year, he himself is reckoned -a young man!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Curiously enough, however, it is the Dancing Dervishes -who have sent up one of the most progressive -spirits to the Assembly. The “Grand Tchelebi,” too, -is a picturesque figure in his long brown cylinder felt -hat and ecclesiastical robes. Descended from an -even older family than Osman’s, he yet voted with the -Hodjas for the dethronement of the ex-Khalif.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The hostility of many deputies towards the Hodjas -is rather puzzling; but the journalist who said, “These -men cannot think as we think,” may be right. He -added: “Every big nation except the English has recognised -the wisdom of separating Church and State. -Yet when we advocate the same policy we are severely -censured.” It is also stated that the Hodjas themselves -cannot keep pace with the most progressive -among the leaders, and are, therefore, quite willing to -stand outside the Councils of the State. The Assembly -no doubt would not suffer any religious element to -hamper progress or interfere with its newly acquired -freedom and independence.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The predominance of military uniforms will strike -any Western observer; but one should remember the -country is still at war. A few still wear the fez; -but the very great majority have adopted the more -picturesque kalpak, that varies in colour from grey -and brown to black, and must be comfortable and warm -in winter.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There are, naturally, many of the special difficulties -in this Assembly that are inseparable from all -beginnings of progress, in a country with no experience -of self-government. The more illiterate -deputies, for example, know nothing of Europe, and -regard everything Western with bitter hostility and -distrust. On the other hand, I met one day a brilliant -Socialist munition-worker who, having studied Karl -Marx and Arthur Henderson, wants to establish a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>precise replica of English trade unionism in Turkey—which -God forbid!</p> - -<p class='c012'>There are some simple farm labourers, shopkeepers, -lawyers, doctors who have studied in Paris, -newspaper editors, University professors, and Valis.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The most enlightened speak practically every -language in Europe, and are thoroughly well acquainted -with public life on the Continent. They stand for the -Freedom of Women, and did their best to make -Halidé Hanoum a member of the Assembly. They -would be perfectly at home in our most exclusive -drawing-rooms; yet they work well, in the Cabinet -itself, with men absolutely ignorant of any country -except their own. “Social, or class, differences,” I -am told, “have no place in any Parliament. They -are created by Society women outside!”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>During the Conference at Lausanne, the papers -published a scandalous statement that “a deputy -could purchase a seat in the Assembly for ten gold -Turkish pounds!” As a matter of fact, all Turkish -elections are very carefully controlled by inspectors -and the municipal authorities. No one who knows -anything of M. Kemal and his colleagues would dream -of imagining that this form of bribery or purchase -could be allowed.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Smarting under the policy of Malta (not unlike -that of Daudet’s hero, who locked his goat in a room -but forgot to close the window), the Grand “<i>National</i>” -Assembly lives up to its name, and is, above all, anti-everything -that could interfere with real freedom. For -three and a half years of untold hardship and self-sacrifice -the gospel of Nationalism has schooled the -people. It is their religion to-day, from the “Pasha” -himself to the humblest shepherd of the hills.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At Angora we read the papers and talk politics -all day; at night we dream of the National Pact. -Everyone watches for foreign telegrams; we all -<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>attend the Assembly; the statesmen work without -ceasing through the twenty-four hours. The genius -of M. Kemal as military chief and civil organiser is -unequalled.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Why, then, do the nations doubt? Turks to-day -are fully determined to run their own country; -they will find the necessary ability and will suffer no -interference. Europe has so far condemned them -unheard and refused them a square deal. We must -change all that and see to it that the East may have -her chance!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The more closely I have studied the National -Assembly the greater confidence I feel.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span> - <h2 id='ch18' class='c009'>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>THE GHAZI MUSTAPHA KEMAL PASHA—THE GREATEST MAN IN TURKEY TO-DAY</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Now</span> that I know Angora, I must know also its -Nationalist hero.</p> -<p class='c012'>Fethi Bey has invited me this afternoon to meet -the President at the Assembly. The Lausanne Conference -is beginning—perhaps he will give me his -impressions.</p> - -<p class='c012'>From the window of the antechamber I saw the -Pasha arrive, attended only by one aide-de-camp. -There is, of course, absolutely no foundation for the -stories that he is even more strictly guarded than -Lenin, among a people who trust and love him!</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is not necessary to see M. Kemal Pasha to realise -that he is the greatest man in Turkey to-day, quite -apart from his actual achievements. He has, indeed, -accomplished miracles; but it is rather the universal -attitude of the people by which one measures the man. -I feel that my host’s regard for me was definitely -increased when I had had lunch with Mustapha Kemal. -The servants announce the “Pasha, Pasha”—no need -for a more precise name.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Should one hold him greater as statesman, soldier, -or orator? since he is past-master in all three aspects. -Personally, I am more grateful to him who prevents -war than to the conqueror. It is as a statesman that I -met him, and I will therefore first consider his political -ideals and work.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Great events create great men, and it is but once -in the life of a nation that situations so grave as that -which found Mustapha Kemal are ever likely to arise. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>He rose out of the terror of the Hamidian régime, the -years that followed, and the humiliation of <i>occupied</i> -Smyrna. It needed, however, the suffering and sorrow -to which all reformers must serve their apprenticeship -to mould his character and to bring him where he -now stands. It was the long-suffering martyrdom one -saw in the face of his late mother that forced him to -realise what he must do, and he has never faltered -from the goal.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Only here, beside them, can one understand all the -Government has had to do in Angora, and see for oneself -how the whole flock still look to this one man for -courage and inspiration. Had <i>he</i> lost faith in the goal -or in his capacity to reach it, all would have been lost. -“Freedom for Turkey or death for the Turks” has -been his motto throughout the years.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I suppose that, however often one may proclaim -it, they will not believe who have not seen, a new -Turkey is born into the world. It is, indeed, idle to -weep over the days that are dead and gone, when the -Turk counted for nothing in his own land; when the -foreigner ruled the roost, and ambassadors were -princes! The new Turk has arrived; the member -of a new nation. No important demand was made -at Lausanne by Turkey that any self-respecting people -could be asked to forgo.</p> - -<p class='c012'>And yet the Powers are still attempting to treat -with “old” Turkey! We have no longer to maintain -our officious, if well-meant, interference on behalf -of disloyal minorities; to insist, <i>par exemple</i>, that -Christians shall be exempted from military service, -as America never exempted her negro -population.</p> - -<div id='i160' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i160.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>THE GHAZI MUSTAPHA KEMAL PASHA.<br /><span class='sc'>President of the Grand National Assembly, Angora.</span><br />(Signed portrait presented to the Author).<br />p. 160</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>No wonder, again, M. Kemal has been more than -tempted to wish (what, for no other reason, he could -desire) to abolish religion altogether, after the imposition -upon Constantinople of that arch-intriguer -the Greek Patriarch! When France and Italy -recognised the “State” Church for the parasite that -may, at any moment, suck up its life-blood, they cast -the Church aside. Confronted at the very outset by -<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>a precisely similar danger, Mustapha Kemal at once -cut off the Khalifat from the Assembly and considerably -limited the power of the Hodjas, a far more difficult -operation than French disestablishment. Yet we -expect him a second time to expose himself to the -intrigues of a Greek Patriarch!</p> - -<p class='c012'>He is, as a fact, far more leniently inclined towards -the Greeks and Armenians than any other Turkish -statesman. He sees even their wanton destruction of -Anatolia as no more than the outburst of a misguided -people, the victims of bigger, intriguing Powers. He -would rather welcome their return to loyalty than -give their place in commerce to the Jews, from the -humane conviction that they have no homes outside -Turkey.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The home life of Mustapha Kemal, literally given -to his country, involves severe daily self-sacrifice. -From month to month he allows himself no recreation, -no change of scene, no intercourse with the world’s -culture. Among these lonely mountains he cannot -break the monotony by going to a play or to a concert; -he does not hunt or follow any kind of sport; and even -Nature, at least in winter, is scarcely kind.</p> - -<p class='c012'>His life is one of continual mental and physical -effort: reading, studying, and planning, seeing -everyone, for they all want to see “The Pasha” and -not the second in command. To me he seems like -a professor, who must be forever explaining to his -people what their Nationalism really means. Perhaps -the nearest historical parallel to his abounding -personality is that of Julius Cæsar; and one is -tempted to hope that he, too, may find time to -leave us the “Commentaries.” The world would -know how to value what the Turks need put on -record, the thought of this keen and alert mind -which is able to interpret, if not supplement, the -Koran for modern conditions and aspirations. They -have, as it were, many centuries of progress to catch -up; and, fortunately, he is no blind respecter of -<i>tyrannical</i> religious or historic traditions that hamper -<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>advance to freedom. A commentary of great value -could be compiled from his thoughtful and stirring -speeches.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It may be that, as in art the highest form is simplest, -we shall, after all, see the perfect Democracy in the -East. The ideals of President Wilson have been discarded -as impossible; Russia has signally failed -to carry out the teachings of Karl Marx. Mustapha -Kemal Pasha, at least, has put <i>his</i> doctrine in practice -to the acknowledged advantage of a country in the -“Slough of Despond.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Turkish statesmen maintain to-day that any form -of a Second Chamber remains only the unfit survival -of decadent Monarchies and Empires, that the -Single Chamber is the most perfect machine for -Government, avoiding friction and delay.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Time alone can prove!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At my first interview with “The Pasha” he was wearing -a big astrakhan kalpak, pushed well down over his -forehead, and smoking cigarette after cigarette. -Though busy receiving ministers and deputies in the -Presidential Bureau, he was at the same time waiting, -as it were, for the right moment to sum up the -whole situation in one final and decisive reply that -could not fail to end all discussion. This power to -drive right through a subject, to find the way out -and take it, is one of the chief sources of his unique -authority.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He was ready, however, for a sociable cup of coffee, -and immediately asked for news of England. Fethi -Bey reminded him of a few scenes from life to which -I had introduced him in London, including dinner at -a Ladies’ Club. Most women would admire the -picturesquely weatherbeaten tint of the Pasha’s -complexion, though the piercing, almost stern, glance -of the eye should remind you that you will do well to -say clearly and quietly what you have to say—and go! -Though so businesslike and energetic, he has a beautifully -modulated voice. His French is well-chosen; in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>Turkish he is an orator. Here, then, are the face and -the expression of a conqueror, but the voice is the voice -of a cultured man of the world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Next morning Mustapha Kemal sent his car (a -present from the people of Smyrna) that I might be -driven to his villa at Tchan-Kaya, almost twenty -minutes’ ride from Angora. This is the best road in the -district; the others are just rows of holes and bumps -on which someone has thrown some cobbles and, incidentally, -some houses! Though Tchan-Kaya was given -to him by the people, he has handed over this property -to the army, and lives there as their guest—surely an -unusual, but charming, example of brotherly love. I -wonder whether the Pasha will do the same in the -house I saw, also presented to him, at Broussa, which an -historian and architect came over from Constantinople -to redecorate.</p> - -<p class='c012'>From Tchan-Kaya one obtains an excellent bird’s-eye -view of Angora; whether at midday or at sunset, -sprinkled with, or buried in, snow, always picturesque. -We get a few hours of sunshine every morning until -quite late in the year; enough to welcome the beautiful -white minarets, so marked a feature in every Eastern -scene, whence the muezzin calls the faithful to -prayer five times a day. Dotted over the hills of -Tchan-Kaya we see the Pasha’s special guard—the -Lasz—wearing a uniform our ladies would be -delighted, I think, to copy in velvet or satin. The -fashion, however, would only suit those who, like these -soldiers from Trébizonde, are tall, slight, and well-built.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At the door one gladly accepts the vociferous greeting -of a fine brown retriever. Then comes the aide-de-camp, -Mahmoud Bey, always ready with a gay smile -for his chief’s guests, who leads one straight into the -house.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The kiosk is large and well-built. In the -combination of hall and ante-room a white marble -fountain is always playing. One of the two pianos in -Angora stands in a corner; these are both, alas, -more ornamental than useful, made, one could guess, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>somewhere about 55 <span class='fss'>B.C.</span>! A large desk, some fine -plants, and the usual Turkish or Persian rugs complete -the furniture. One door leads into the Pasha’s mother’s -apartments, the other to his own sitting-room.</p> - -<div id='i164' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i164.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>On the wall of Mustapha Kemal Pasha’s study the Sultan Osman, first of the House of Osman, looks down on Mustapha Kemal Pasha, who has ended the dynasty.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>I could scarcely believe that I was speaking to the -legislator, as my host rose to greet me from his Western -red-leather sofa. Without his kalpak, his fair -hair, well brushed back, his close-cropped moustache, -his well-tailored clothes with the correct crease, would -surely carry him through a London drawing-room -without a guess that he was not English, or, at any -rate, not from the North. Again, his keen sense of -humour is not common among the Turks, and it was a -delight to find how heartily he joined in the laugh which -his delightful stories provoked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I am told that the Pasha’s type and colouring are not -uncommon in his native Roumelia—as ever, the -North is fair!</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>Noticing some “Napoleon” literature on one of -the writing-tables, I regretted that “I had not thought -of bringing a book about the ‘little Corsican,’ instead -of merely offering my congratulations on a magnificent -victory.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Please never think of such a thing,” he replied. -“He interests me as a great general, but——”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I understood your interest amounted almost to -veneration, or so it is said.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What a strange rumour! I naturally study all the -great strategists; but to compare the Sakharia with -Austerlitz is surely no great compliment.”</p> - -<div id='i165' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i165.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>The Ante-room at Tchan-Kaya.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Though I confess to being considerably startled -by this emphatic declaration, it reminded me of a -conversation with Monsieur Clemenceau some years -before the war.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He told me,” I said, “that he considered Lord -Rosebery’s enthusiastic admiration of Napoleon had -been almost a blot on his own political career.... -<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>‘Where is the greatness of that vain egoist?’ asked -the outspoken Frenchman. ‘I consider myself a -hundred times greater, for this simple reason: -When Napoleon came down he fell for ever. When I, -or my country, are down, then I am at my greatest -and best.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Though M. Kemal could smile at the Gallic boasting, -while honouring the boaster, his own criticism was more -quietly expressed:</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Napoleon put ambition first. He fought for -himself, <i>not</i> for ‘the Cause’—with the inevitable -<i>débâcle</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As I listen to Mustapha Kemal, taking advantage -the while of his gracious invitation to thaw my frozen -toes and hands at the wood fire, I wonder what a “keen -soldier” would not have given to be in my place, -with the chance of hearing a private lecture from one -of the world’s great generals, a man not more than -forty.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Were you ever in doubt of success?” I asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No, never,” he replied. “I saw the whole scheme -from the first (even when we had no munitions), just -as it finally worked out. We delayed—to save bloodshed -and devastation. Fethi Bey went to London as -a last resource, because we wanted a treaty—in ink, -not in blood.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Is not that last effort for peace, perhaps, this great -man’s finest gesture to a war-ridden generation? -Knowing the glory he could win for himself, in the -certainty of strength for conquest, he yet made three -separate attempts to persuade the Powers to enforce -a peaceful retirement upon the Greeks. Preparation -is not relaxed; no detail has been forgotten; the -peasant armies are ready in Anatolia, wondering -why, since peace lingers, the Great Chief does not -fight!</p> - -<p class='c012'>One of his generals told me later: “You cannot -judge “The Pasha” until you have seen him commanding -his army. No man could be more fearless, more hard -on himself, or kinder to his men. He simply ignores -pain, though a rib be driven into his lungs; and when -<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>he leads them, the soldiers know all is well. ‘His -star is good,’ they say, and they have no use for -generals in the East for whom the stars are known to -predict ill. His mind works rapidly to clear decisions. -Above all, he never loses his head, and his judgment is -sound.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Without this universal, unstinting affection and -esteem from both officers and men, Mustapha Kemal -could never have established the Assembly and created -a new Turkey. When he had thus realised the vision -of his ardent youth, that never left him through years of -exile, revolt, and disgrace; when, at any moment now, -he could declare himself Dictator, he will not steal -responsibility from the people’s representatives. -“The Assembly,” he says, “is not one man; I am only -its President.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He dislikes hearing the word “Kemalist.” “It -does not carry with it the spirit of the movement, -which will go on, whether I am dead or alive.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>If one speaks to him about his own work, he either -answers: “I did my duty,” or refers all honour to -the Assembly.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have talked with many of Europe’s great statesmen, -but found none more modest than he. Yet who -among them has snatched such triumph from odds -as opposing?</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The furniture of this little room is, of course, all -“native.” The dinner-service comes from Kutahia, -the carpets and rugs are Anatolian. On the walls -hang jewelled swords and other trophies or souvenirs, -sent in homage from Moslem rulers to the conqueror -they all acknowledge. He may endeavour to efface -himself, to glory in his simplicity and set up a real -democracy; but the stamp of his personality is -on the whole Moslem world; he holds in his hand the -keys of Islam. Nationalism has now acquired a -deep religious significance; the Pact is a “decalogue” -none may deny.</p> - -<p class='c012'>A well-known Turkish writer has boldly compared -<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>the movement with Christianity; humbly born, bringing -suffering to all, death and martyrdom to many—for -an Ideal of the Spirit no human enemy can -crush.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Who touches Turkey, with Right behind her, will -set all Islam on fire to put down Might.</p> - -<div id='i168' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i168.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>Mustapha Kemal Pasha’s Sitting-room.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>In Egypt they speak of “Holy Angora,” and, -wherever future assemblies may meet, she will be always -sacred. An Egyptian princess, I notice, uses capitals -when referring to the Ghazi Pasha as “He” or -“Him.” If only the delegates at Lausanne could have -managed to peep behind the scenes at Angora! -If they still considered the Nationalist demands -unreasonable, they could scarcely have failed to -pause before the deep-rooted fanaticism they have -inspired.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The Pasha is nothing if not frank. He has no -time for bluff, though his pride was stung by the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>idle boasting of our ex-Premier: “You’ve got to -speak to these people with guns.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>No charge could be more ridiculous or untrue than -to say that Mustapha Kemal is ever influenced by -Camerad Areloff. Bolshevism and Nationalism are -poles apart. Yet the Pasha could scarcely refuse -invitations to conversation with any credited representative -from a country like Russia; though no -words of his are likely to change M. Kemal’s -invariable habit of using his <i>own</i> judgment and -making up his <i>own</i> mind.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Though he seldom speaks without a practical -purpose, I was honoured by an intimacy that nearly -approached that of an old school friend. There were -changes, however, to rather puzzling reserve, almost -frigid politeness, in his case probably not caused by any -reminder of my nationality. He knows not only -whom, but when, to trust, and I suppose I had unwittingly -opened some dangerous topic.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>One almost wishes at times that he need not live -so perpetually in the heat of the fray. Driven, -perhaps, by greater intelligence or stricter integrity, -to some unpopular action, he might lose his halo, -or at least dim its lustre, while the new country -was still too unstable for any weakening of his guiding -hand. There are fanatical members of the Assembly -who, <i>bien entendu</i>, are far more extreme than he, -whose unchecked counsels might spell disaster. I -sought, indeed, for the opposition within of which -we have heard so much, and found only a very small -group of rather small-minded men, at present with little -power.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Nevertheless, foolish measures, that might prove -a real menace, and were certainly false to true freedom, -have been put forward and discussed. The schemes -for excluding Albanians and Arabs from the Assembly, -and for requiring five years’ residence in one place, hit -“The Pasha” himself. Telegrams of angry protest came -in from all quarters, and he soon stopped the mischief. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>Others, however, may prove more difficult. The opposition -seem to me seeking in Nationalism—“<i>midi à 14 -heures</i>,” as the French say.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At present he is not only adored by those who trust -him and gave up all to follow him, but respected and -admired by those recently serving the Sultan, who had -not the courage to believe that right must triumph -and truth prevail.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I believe that his personality could always dominate -the Assembly at Angora, and there is unquestionably -no possible foundation for the reported rivalry of -Kiazim Kara Békir. They are the best of friends, each -conspicuously loyal to the other, and Kiazim Kara -Békir is far too proud of his leader to want his -place.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I foresee, however, that even his clearest instructions -may sometimes be badly interpreted, and thus -bring blame for what he has not done and never -intended. There will be difficulties again in certain -foreign relations, because the most loyal Nationalists, -for whom justice and gratitude alike demand reward, -will not all be so well fitted as the existing diplomats -for the embassies of Europe.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Though no one could have suspected it from his -manner, I learnt that my Angora host had been seriously -alarmed at the prospect of receiving an Englishwoman -into his household. His first impressions, -however, were unexpectedly in my favour. And the -ladies agreed: “You are just like our Pasha—fair -hair and blue eyes. You might be his sister.” It was -the highest possible compliment, the best possible -passport.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mustapha Kemal found time to be no less hospitable, -and often treated me to a concert of Anatolian -songs with the oute (or stringed guitar) accompaniment. -It was at his house I first tasted the most delicious of -Turkish confections, “<i>poulet à la Circassienne</i>,” that is -chicken with nut sauce. It was frequently offered to me -after that; but, alas, like all things Turkish, even -<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>their “light” pastry <i>Bereks</i>, it is as fattening as it is -appetising.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One afternoon “the Pasha” joined us to pay visits -to the houses surrounding his kiosk. We made -a strange party: the Ghazi Pasha and his aide-de-camp, -the Englishwoman, and a big white ram! -The magnificent goats of Anatolia follow one about -and welcome caresses such as we lavish on a pet -dog. The Armenians weave handsome shawls from -their silky hair. Angora is also famous for its cats -and its rabbits.</p> - -<div id='i171' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i171.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>Mustapha Kemal Pasha Walking in the Grounds of Tchan-Kaya.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Naturally, the “veiled” tenants stood in too great -awe of their Pasha to say much, so we first walked on -to inspect the new family of a favourite dog, then -visited another happy family of geese and chickens -and the horses! Like many Orientals, M. Kemal is -over-merciful to his beasts, who are apt to grow fat and -lazy from insufficient exercise.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>Mustapha Kemal always says, and means, that -everyone has a right to come and see him. He -enjoys talking with peasants, and pays a generous -tribute to their sterling worth. But in Turkey, -some mysterious inborn tact prevents the uncultured -from awkward attempts at intrusion upon his -superior, however brotherly the hand of friendship -between them. It is, however, almost impossible -to compare the two countries, for, despite the Moslem’s -respect for authority in every shape or form, rank -and family do <i>not</i> count with him as with us, and the -feudal habits, of which no so-called democracy can -cure us, must appear strange indeed to these simple -folk.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I have been privileged to hear “the Pasha” explaining -the new Turkey he has created, expressing -all his ideas, hopes, fears and anxieties; and this, -at what is perhaps the very summit of his career, when -his nation has just entered upon her existence of -freedom and independence.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet I hesitate before the attempt to analyse or to -describe the character and political achievement of -this man; to convey all the subtlety and the strength -of his mind. The complexities, and the apparent -contradictions, of the Oriental are always baffling -to the West; while, though far superior to vanity, the -Pasha knows his own value and takes himself, as it -were, too much for granted, to encourage or assist -others in the dissection of his character. I can but -rest on the tolerance all great men extend to our -judgments, if prompted by sincerity and justice and -a love of truth. As it is written in the proverbs of old -Japan: “If your judgments are tempered by the -dictates of truth, the gods will protect you, even though -you offer no prayers to them.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>We are naturally enthusiastic before a New -Turkey, built out of nothing. Surely these people are -<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>capable of carrying on? If some ask: “Will -this man lose his head?” we answer: “He has not -done so under the strongest temptation. Why should -we fear?... He has not made himself Dictator; -he has refused wealth and honour; he has abolished -‘decorations!’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>When the work of reconstruction begins in real -earnest, when the country, so rich in minerals and with -so fertile a soil, can be developed in peace to the best -advantage; then I, for one—now I know him—believe -“The Pasha” will prove to us that he can unite his -people no less wisely in the building up of their -fatherland than in saving it from tyranny and -interference.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Nationalists have had their warning from -mistakes made by the Committee of Union and -Progress, against the only real danger one can reasonably -foresee, that of teaching the people to run before -they have learnt to walk.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To all who would see the vision realised of an established, -strong, and well-governed new Turkey, I only -say: “Take care of your Pasha, for ‘his value is -above rubies.’”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span> - <h2 id='ch19' class='c009'>CHAPTER XIX</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>AN INTERVIEW WITH THE GHAZI MUSTAPHA KEMAL PASHA</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>The</span> Ghazi M. Kemal Pasha granted me the following -interview just after the conference at Lausanne had -assembled.</p> -<p class='c012'>“To what extent, if any, has the attitude of the -Grand National Assembly been responsible for setting -public opinion against the Turks?” I asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Our attitude has never changed. All reports -of inconsistency are false, and circulated by the clever -propaganda of our enemies. The Government has to -render account of itself not only to a Chamber of -Deputies, but to History; and no responsible or -self-respecting Ministry could act with such disloyalty -to its own principles, the very spirit of its being, as the -Press has accused it of revealing. All these false -reports come from those Englishmen, some of them -official, who are working to prolong the war, a crime -no one can lay on our shoulders. You know of the -untiring efforts we made for peace, and you know the -result. In any case, though personally accused, I am -not responsible. I am only President of the Assembly. -The Assembly is not one man.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do you think that a really <i>sincere entente</i> can -be established between Turkey and Great Britain?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I do not think, I am <i>certain</i>, that we shall eventually -return to the old traditional friendship. There are -no reasons against, and so many in favour of, that -course. We make no demands beyond respect and -honour for our independence. We have sent away our -Sultan to secure greater freedom, and to prevent all -risk of danger to our independence.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>“Do you think that the Conference will produce -good results?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Eventually there can be no doubt that, however -heated and however prolonged the discussions, it will -bring peace. Unfortunately, we cannot wait for ever: -The Powers should recognise now, what they must -ultimately admit, that we could not accept terms -which would deny us that liberty for which we have -sacrificed so much and fought with such stern resolve.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“For every reason, we desire peace; a settlement -that will enable us to get on with the vital work of -reconstruction. Details must take time, but the -essential question should have been arranged before -this.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The papers accuse Angora of arrogance and -zenophobia,” I reminded him.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The charge is invented for propaganda. Is -it <i>arrogant</i> to stand out for our just and logical rights ? -Of ‘zenophobia’ I know nothing! My whole life, -in every action, is proof that I do <i>not</i> hate Europe. I -never fought for hate, but to save the truth. The -same inspiration guides and controls our politics.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I could never myself keep on hating a nation -for the mistakes of its Government. I fought -against the Bulgarians, who are my greatest friends -to-day.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And towards the Greeks I feel the same. I am -confident that we shall soon be great friends, friends -as we were before the Powers intervened. As they -were led away by false flatterers, they will be the first -to see their mistake and repent.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Have you banished the Christians, or are they -leaving Anatolia in mere panic?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We have taken no steps in this matter, but left -them absolutely free, to go or stay. They have -been terrified by propaganda, largely American, directed -by religious animosities. While they followed the -Greek army in thousands, and are still flying, many -others are coming back. To-day you can see two long -streams of refugees among us, one leaving, the other -returning. They know that all Christians, whether -<span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>our own subjects or foreigners, will always enjoy, as -they <i>have</i> always enjoyed, the full liberties accorded -them in every civilised country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Are you satisfied with the situation in Constantinople?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We shall keep faith to the promise we made at -Moudania. Meanwhile it is unnatural to see -foreign troops in Constantinople, and they should -be taken away as soon as possible. Their presence -involves abnormal conditions, which have made it -necessary for us to administer that villayet from the -Assembly at Angora—an indignity which should -not be prolonged.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“While conversations are maintained in Lausanne, -and since everyone knows we must keep Constantinople, -the Powers should not insist on the armed -guarantee.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do you congratulate us on having secured a -Conservative Government?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is early days, surely, to speak! If they will -help us to friendly relations with England and -the other Powers, that is all we ask. Your parties -are not our business. We are, generally speaking, -against all policies of expansion, because they lead -nations into the abyss; and, in our judgment, such -policies are impolitic.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What are your views on the Freedom of the -Straits?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Like the delegates at Lausanne, we want <i>real</i> -freedom, not freedom in the hands of one Power. -We are ready to discuss the problem with all who have -any interests in that quarter. There can be no freedom -till Constantinople and the Sea of Marmora are -secure.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We must have national frontiers; that is, all -territories peopled by Turks. We accept for boundaries -or limit the enemy-lines as they were when the -Armistice was signed. Is that an unreasonable claim -in return for all we have given up from the old -Ottoman Empire?</p> - -<div id='i176' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i176.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>GENERAL ISMET PASHA.<br /><span class='sc'>Minister for Foreign Affairs.</span><br /><span class='sc'>First Turkish Delegate at the Lausanne Peace Conference.</span><br />p. 176</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>“Towards ‘minorities’ we stand by the National -<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>Pact, confirmed by the recent Treaty with France, -signed at Angora. We are fully prepared, nay anxious, -to recognise all such rights as have been given to -minorities in the different treaties between the -Powers—since the war. It must, however, be clearly -understood that foreign control, inconsistent with the -absolute independence we demand, is <i>impossible</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Nor can we grant any special privileges for Capitulations -to the subjects of foreign nations who may -choose to live in Turkey. They are welcome to -<i>precisely the same rights</i> as our own subjects enjoy, -but we will never recognise any such privileges to -foreigners as are unknown, for instance, in France, -England, or America. Those who would still challenge -our claim to the complete independence that we are -determined to secure will have to find means to -exterminate all Turks now inspired by that ideal. -But I am confident that such a slaughter would not -be permitted by the civilised world. Civilisation, on -the contrary, will soon learn that our Turkey has -her place in the future. She will help, and not -hinder, civilisation. Civilisation must, therefore, be -interested in, and support, her independence.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>On December 22nd, the <i>Morning Post</i> printed the -following leading article about this interview:</p> - -<p class='c020'>The interview which Mustapha Kemal Pasha has given our -Correspondent emphasises the one supreme result so far -reached at Lausanne, namely, that the new rulers of Turkey are -willing and indeed anxious to resume friendly relations with this -country. The compromise which is apparently on the point of -being reached at Lausanne concerning the Straits and the demilitarised -zones may not survive the touch of reality and the sharp -breath of war. But that is no reason why we should deplore or -despise such a settlement, for it is at least a sign of goodwill, an -offer on the part of Turkey to come to an agreement with the -Western Powers, who, by the strange irony of fate, are the real -friends of Turkey and yet were forced in the Great War to call -themselves her enemies. The Lausanne Conference has dealt -with and perhaps settled the Thracian boundaries, the protection -of minorities, and the guardianship of the Straits, and there remains -for it now to secure an agreement regarding the capitulations, the -Patriarchate, and the future of Mosul. But the real importance of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>Lausanne lies in the fact that the world now realises that Kemalist -Turkey is not the cat’s-paw of Bolshevist Russia, that the Turkish -Nationalists did not defeat one invader in order to put themselves -at the mercy of another, and that the ambitious plan of Moscow -for using Turkey as a pawn in the great game of destroying British -dominion in the East is in all probability doomed to failure. It is -too early yet to say that the Bolshevicks have been outwitted, but -both in their silences and their speeches there are evidences of -chagrin. They have found out that Lausanne is not Genoa and -that, if we may thus describe him, Curzon <i>libre</i> is a very different -person from Curzon <i>enchaîné</i>. Chicherin had his Rapallo. Perhaps -it was his final triumph.</p> - -<p class='c021'>Kemal, in his interview, said: “I am certain we shall eventually -return to the traditional friendship between Turkey and Britain. -I can see no obstacle thereto.” With the fall of the Coalition -Government, the last obstacle has gone. Lord Curzon has been -firm with the Turks, but not venomous, frank but not insulting. -He can afford to leave rude harangues and offensive imprecations -to the congress of fallen angels now assembling at Algeciras. Indeed, -all the declarations of the Foreign Secretary go to show that -he is sincerely anxious to reach a durable and friendly settlement -with the emissaries of Angora, and that if he is determined to -uphold the rights of the British, he is equally ready to acknowledge -the independence of the Turkish Empire. We are glad to see that -Kemal is anxious to reciprocate, and therein he shows himself to be -not only a soldier but a statesman. For his task is not yet ended; -indeed it is only beginning. He has saved his country from the -Greek; he must now save it from the moth and rust of economic -decay. In that great task he will find Great Britain his best friend. -Fethi Bey has doubtless made it clear to him how much Europe -can contribute to the economic reconstruction of Turkey, and a -recent statement of Mr. Morgenthau should convince him that the -United States will be a reluctant and difficult lender. In the long -run he has to choose between free co-operation with Great Britain -and an enslavement at the mercy of Bolshevist Russia. He seems -already to have chosen the better course; for the sake of his country, -and ours, we hope and believe that he will persist in it.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span> - <h2 id='ch20' class='c009'>CHAPTER XX</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>MUSTAPHA KEMAL PASHA—THE MAN WHO IS MASTER OF HIS FATE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>My</span> eye fell on the portrait of a handsome Turkish -lady, which was hanging over the Pasha’s writing-desk.</p> -<p class='c012'>“What a lovely face!” I exclaimed.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“My mother,” said the Pasha, with obvious pride.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Would it be very indiscreet,” said I, “to ask if -I might have the great pleasure of seeing her?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“She is very ill. The doctors are with her day and -night. Alas, I fear she can never recover.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>We afterwards went up the staircase to the invalid’s -apartments. To my surprise, we found her seated on -a wide divan, supported by cushions. It was difficult -at first to believe that she was so near the end.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Alas!” said Mustapha Kemal, “her suffering -has come through me. She is paying back now the tears -and anguish she spent for me in exile.” There was -sorrow in his voice, too heart-broken for many words.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Now you can take part in his victory,” I said. -“How proud you must be of your son. His is a -wonderful story. I am proud only to have spoken with -him and seen his work.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>She thanked me with great feeling, and said she -believed “God had sent her this son to save the -Fatherland—but my son is always kind to me.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Whilst giving me a beautiful silk handkerchief, -scented with her favourite perfume, she asked whether -she had not seen me before, ten years ago, in Constantinople.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“She has a marvellous memory,” the Pasha -murmured.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>In a few days there were to be no more opportunities -for any of us to see this dear lady!</p> - -<p class='c012'>When, later, in Constantinople, I ventured upon -some allusion to the great devotion he always evinced -to his mother, a Turk said: “That is only natural—Oriental, -if you will. The man whose hands are -steeped in blood, whose soul is black with crime, yet -bows in respect to his mother. You might as well -be surprised that the sun shines.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The story of M. Kemal’s youth and of his brilliant -career is, of course, well known in Anatolia. He was -born in Salonica in 1880, and there are legends that -many who saw the boy, “fair as the corn,” at his games, -would say: “Look well at that little fellow. He will -one day be the saviour of his country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>St. Jeanne d’Arc’s “Life,” you remember, begins -with a description of the countryside on the night of -her birth—“all the animals seemed strangely excited. -There was a chorus of approval from the chickens, the -geese, and the pigs.” “Very possibly,” as a friend -once commented on this passage, “it all happened -again on the night each of us was born, but no one -noticed it.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>So I will speak only of facts. A year ago, how -few had even heard his name! How often the Unknown -Personality has appeared, just when hope -seemed dead, to save his country!</p> - -<p class='c012'>M. Kemal’s father died when he was quite a child, -though already attending the school of Chemsi Effendi. -Then, for a few years, his mother took him to stay -with an uncle in the country, and life became one -glorious game in the sunny fields, shooting at rooks, -stealing Nature’s secrets, and flourishing on all the -delights of being naughty with no one to interfere.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Although his mother seems to have felt, however, -that young minds cannot safely be left long undisciplined, -and, therefore, brought him back to school -at Salonica, the experiment did not prove a success. -Like other unusual boys, he was always in hot water -<span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>and, in the end, was allowed to come home and play -at soldiers.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was Edison’s unsympathetic schoolmistress who -told <i>his</i> mother: “This boy’s brain is addled, we can -do nothing with him.” He had given one of his companions -a seidlitz powder to find out whether the gas -would lift up his patient into the air! Mrs. Edison -was wise enough to take the boy’s education into her -own hands, proving herself “the loveliest and most -wonderful teacher on God’s earth,” as he afterwards -declared.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As the Pasha’s mother did not approve of soldiering, -the boy simply took himself off to a military -college, passed the examinations with distinction, and -then proudly confronted her with all his certificates! -He was both hard-working and intelligent, devoted to -French and mathematics.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But even as a schoolboy his country’s suffering -must have eaten into his ardent imagination. I was -told that he would spend hours of recreation in -making speeches and organising a committee, -to protest against the tyranny of Abdul Hamid. -Already he felt that an army was not enough to save -his country, and persuaded some of his schoolfellows -to study politics, sowing the seed of all he has since -given to the world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>From the beginning he determined, above all, to -make himself master of every detail concerning the -French Revolution; to understand, by understanding -“the people,” why it happened and how it happened, -what mistakes were made, the real ideals -that inspired its passion of sacrifice, and the permanent -gains it brought to France and to mankind.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Long after all his companions were fast asleep, the -young Mustapha dived into every possible book he -could lay hands on, to clear up this fascinating -subject. Next morning he would hold forth to all -and sundry upon his discoveries, and finally issued -a paper with exemplary regularity, which was widely -circulated in manuscript.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Meanwhile military studies had not been neglected; -<span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>He was promoted Staff Captain, and—through under-hand -channels—“recommended” to the notice of -Abdul Hamid, who promptly exiled him to Syria.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In Damascus, Beyrout, and Jaffa, his more -revolutionary plans matured. At last the Constitution -was proclaimed, and he was able to join his -mother in Salonica!—not yet, however, for the quiet -of a restored home life.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At the time when the troops marched to deliver Constantinople -from the reactionaries, he was appointed -Chief of Staff to Mahmoud Chefket Pasha. During the -Tripolitain War he was first at Syrenaique, and -afterwards at Benghazi.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When the Great War broke out, he was military -attaché at Sofia, but was immediately despatched to -the command of a Division in the Dardanelles, and, -when this had been formed and organised, marched -to Gallipoli. It was he who defeated the English -forces, not only in Gallipoli, but at Anafarta.</p> - -<p class='c012'>After we had been driven out of the Dardanelles, -he went to the Caucasus in command of the 15th -Army Corps, and recovered Bitlis and Mouche from -the Russians. For a time he led the 6th Army Corps, -under the German General Falkenhayn; but nothing -could reconcile him to his chief’s methods and the -reckless loss of life they involved. He therefore -resigned and went back to Constantinople.</p> - -<p class='c012'>After accompanying the present Khalif on a visit -to Hindenberg and Ludendorff, he tells me that, when -he thus first clearly saw into the real issue of the -war; he also saw, even more clearly, the need for making -his own plans in Turkey.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He was in Syria when the Armistice was signed; -and returning with high hopes to Constantinople, sank -broken-hearted before the treachery of Mudros! But -not for long.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Never the man to nurse despair, he quickly rose -again to his country’s call. Offered the post of -Inspector of the East (that is, High Functionary of the -Eastern Villayets), he accepted at once, and hurried -into Anatolia to prepare for resistance.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>From the moment he stepped out at Samsoun, <i>the -movement began</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>What shall we say of the “Man at the Helm—the -Hero and the Genius?” Were his “Destinies,” -indeed, “written on the tablets of heaven”; or may -he not rather claim:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c022'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“I am Master of my Fate</div> - <div class='line in1'>I am Captain of my Soul”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class='c023' /> - -<p class='c012'>Every detail of the work had to be built up, as it -were, stone by stone, entirely afresh—an army to be -found anywhere and everywhere from nothing. -Yet it was trained and organised to become, what -Colonel Mougin tells me, is “the best-disciplined and -best-officered army in the world.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Perhaps the Battle of the Sakharia, lasting fifteen -days without interruption, may be quoted as the -Great Victory. It was certainly one of the battles -of this century. When one of the majors asked for -instructions about “the line provided for retreat,” he -was told: “There will be no retreat. Advance, or -die in your trenches!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>On the anniversary of the Battle of the In-Enus, -Ismet Pasha told me a little about his victory, and -what it meant. What victory <i>must</i> mean when you -have nothing with which to conquer.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Already the military experts have written pages -about the advance and the victory. One day, we hope, -“The Pasha” will give us his own version.</p> - -<p class='c012'>How, again, shall we tell the endurance of the -people, suffering through long years in silence and -alone? To us who could but look on them, pitying -and admiring from a distance, it seemed as if someone -<i>must</i> get through somehow to offer the hand of friendship -and give, at least, heartfelt sympathy. I tried, -but it could not be done. Even now, I cannot say -all it has cost me to reach Angora!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mustapha Kemal must put on record “The Birth of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>a Nation”; and from Halidé Hanoum we want the -thousand and one pictures of the agony of simple folk—desolate -village homes, women who weep <i>and</i> -work, the little ones crying, “What is it, mother?”; -all that war means to men, all that men can endure -for liberty and the right.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What does it matter,” she has written, “though -the world call us pariah? We will die with honour. -What does it matter if food be denied us by all our -neighbours? Our own soil will keep us alive, -sheltered in sackcloth!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>At Lausanne the patriot-passion is taunted for its -arrogance. It is forgotten that self-made nations, -like men, if made with honour, have certain -rights and duties, which the most illustrious -and ancient lineage cannot bestow. Moreover, we -carry with ease what has come down to us through -the centuries; what we have suffered and fought for, -we grasp, crying maybe somewhat loudly: “Hands -off!” To be in Turkey, and to learn of the heroism -of her people, is to understand her moderation.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I was naturally keenly interested in the Pasha’s -views on women; I have been still more interested to -hear that, since I was at Angora, he has put his theories -into practice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have never spoken in England or the United -States without having to answer the most absurd -questions on life in a harem. This time, in London, the -old nonsense was trotted out, and my replies either -invented or distorted.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was interviewed during our own Suffrage -agitation, and expressed my conviction that “women -<i>must</i> either have full liberty to earn their livelihoods -in any profession, <i>or</i> be sheltered and protected as -Turkish women are sheltered and protected.” Next -morning a large poster appeared with the legend, <i>under -my portrait</i>, “English writer urges polygamy!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The paper inserted my prompt denial, but, of -course, that never was read by thousands who had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>swallowed the poster. A Glasgow paper, indeed, -was considerate enough to remark that, “knowing -my people were Presbyterians, the kindest interpretation -was—insanity!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>American pressmen were particularly furious with -me for asserting that polygamy does not exist in -Turkey, and that no Turkish women would put up -with the European system of “establishments.” -When they persisted that “Turks had more than -one wife,” I asked, “why many men, who lacked the -means or courage to ever marry, yet supposed the -men of the East could each have four?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In my judgment, “Progress for Women” has <i>begun</i> -on far sounder lines in Turkey than elsewhere. The -occasion has come to help them, and I believe they -are ready to meet it. There is to-day so much to be -done for their country that few, surely, will hesitate -to come forward and stand beside the men in the great -work. Temptations to rivalry or competition scarcely -exist.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Ten years ago, that eloquent and graceful speaker, -Hamdoullah Soubhi, was urging the women to freedom, -bidding them cast off their veils and help to -govern the country. To-day it is Mustapha Kemal -himself who, in season and out of season, is calling -on them to break for ever with the harem, and learn to -be helpmates to their husbands.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have said and written, over and over again, that -women should not, and need not, compete with men. -That is not the real road to freedom. Liberty -dwelleth among comrades, and shuns a rival.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“This time next year,” said Mustapha Kemal, -“woman must be free. She must uncover her face -and mix with men.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“How will the men like it?” I asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It matters little what they like or dislike. Freedom -must come.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He has no more patience with tradition in -men’s dress. “When summer comes and our kalpaks -are too hot, we shall wear hats with ‘brims,’ to -protect us from the sun. The time is past for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>‘dress’ to reveal the ‘race’. We should dress for -comfort.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Hamid Bey and other delegates at Lausanne are of -the same opinion. They say the old conventional way -of dressing “stamps the Turk in Europe as a member -of an inferior race.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Taking my courage in both hands, I ventured to -mention the fear his friends had expressed to me, of -his marrying a princess.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That will never happen,” he replied. “I have -already chosen an educated woman of my own people, -with character enough to be ‘equal partner’ in all -my work. There can be no happiness in union for -only <i>half</i> one’s character and one’s life. But I stand -for democracy, and was never attracted by rank.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Everyone now is talking of Mustapha Kemal’s -future wife. The ring was bought for him at -Lausanne by the delegates, who were as excited about -the business as any school-children. His neighbours, -sweet little Mme. Ruchène Echref and her talented -husband are beside themselves with delighted anticipation -of having so charming a <i>châtelaine</i> at Tchan-Kaya.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mme. Ruchène told me that the Pasha was staying -with his future father-in-law during the Moudania -Conference, and that Latifée Hanoum proved herself -most helpful over all his despatches, as she speaks -and writes excellent English and French.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The wife to be could have no better sponsor -than Mme. Echref! She and her husband, like Adnan -Bey and Halidé Hanoum, gave up everything to follow -the Pasha. They would not, however, allow me ever -to speak of their sacrifices, or tell the tale of their many -tragic sufferings in all parts of Turkey. Now, indeed, -their dear little two-roomed cabin, so tastefully furnished -with its beautiful pictures, may well stand for -“love in a cottage.” She does a great deal of Red Crescent -work among the women who are still so active -in helping the refugees of Anatolia.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>One only wishes that the other social reforms, -splendidly started in Constantinople, had not been so -long interrupted. But like education, and all other real -progress, they cannot survive long wars. What criminal -waste that means for mankind!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have talked with many Turkish brides, received -many confidences, and the whole question of marriage -in Turkey has always interested me immensely.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The first Turkish bride I ever met, long years ago, -had never seen her husband before marriage, and -detested him from the first. “There is nothing the -matter with him,” she admitted, “<i>except</i> that I don’t -like him.” Ultimately she managed to escape, married -a man of her own choice, and was twenty times more -unhappy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Another bride told me that, as a great favour, she -was allowed to see her future husband, and has regretted -it ever since. “The dreadful imprudence -seems to have robbed life of all its romance!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet one more confession! “I peeped through the -lattice-window to look at him as he walked past. -Quite an uninteresting little man, but he was ‘my -fate’ and I might have ‘been given’ something -worse.” But, at her wedding, I found a tall and -handsome bridegroom. “What does this mean?” -I asked. “What has happened?” And she answered -quite calmly: “I must have looked out at the wrong -man.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Tewfik Rushdi Bey declares that it is “easy -divorce” in Turkey which makes their marriages so -happy <i>and</i> lasting. I gladly pass on the paradox -to all English advocates for “marriage reform”; -only bidding them remember that Turkish husbands -accept big risks at the start. They never hesitate -about trusting their mothers to “pick a winner in -life’s handicap”; and, since young Western people, -one and all, prefer their own way to their parents’, -all the “wisdom of the East” may leave them cold.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>European bridegrooms must always experience a -sense of being “outsiders” at their own weddings; -but at least we expect them to be there! In Turkey, -the signatures of bride and bridegroom are not affixed -to the contract in each other’s presence, and often not -even on the same day. It is scarcely necessary to -add that the guests belong to the bride’s party, and -are entertained at <i>her</i> house. To us it certainly is -strange to hear the solemn questions addressed to the -bride by the Imam that pledge her life to an “absentee” -partner, whom she has never set eyes on. I can still -remember a beautiful wedding-dress of white satin -brocade, embroidered with silver stars, over which -sparkled a large diadem of diamonds. All brides, too, -wear a shower of silver threads round the neck, from -which they pull out threads to give their friends for -“good luck.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Good luck” at a wedding naturally means a good -husband, and from the number of threads I have -received, there should be at least fifty “eligible partners” -somewhere in waiting for me.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We, in our turn, wish happiness to the bride on her -bridal throne, as we pass before her in solemn procession. -Last of all comes the feast, for women -only, after which the happy couple are, at last, -“introduced.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>At this charming and strange ceremony I also -witnessed a fine example of true democracy as practised -in the East. Among the guests in their elaborate -ball-dresses, trimmed with orange blossom, I noticed -the Grand Vizier’s wife; and then, catching sight of a -very differently attired group of women, wearing faded -and worn tcharchaffs and feradjés, I realised that -the “bath-women” of the family had come uninvited -to the feast! And the door of the harem was wide -open, that <i>all</i> might enter in to see the presents, -admire the dresses, and all the other delightful feminine -intimacies of such an occasion.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As a matter of fact, I was told by Zeyneb, <i>any</i> -woman can go to a Turkish wedding without having -been invited. “<i>You</i>, in England, only ask your -<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>intimate friends, and yet you have to employ detectives -to watch the presents.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>When my attendant, Cadem Haïr (whose colour -led me to call her Miss Chocolate) became engaged to -a coffee-coloured railway official, she was treated like -one of the family by the Pasha’s household. Fatma -and I bought her trousseau, we arranged for her to be -photographed, and secured a Kara Kheuz (or Punch -and Judy show) for the wedding festivities.</p> - -<p class='c012'>So many confidences, so many romances and love-stories -inside the Imperial harem, and outside! They -would fill a volume.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have never met an “old maid” in Turkey, and -I doubt whether one could be found. I well remember -the distress and anxieties of a certain matron whose -daughter was still unmarried at twenty-eight. The -girl had resolutely refused all offers, and her poor -mother could only suppose she had been bewitched. -Then one day <i>he</i> appeared, and that story had a -happy ending.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Whether the reforms Mustapha Kemal is so determined -to promote will substantially diminish the -number of early marriages, one cannot, of course, -foresee. At present, fortunately, the most brilliant, -practical, and advanced Turkish women have found -<i>their own</i> sphere, and do not enter into open competition -with men. If they are tempted to follow our -Western feminists, to steal, not only men’s prestige, -but their bread and butter, domestic chaos and anarchy -may spread to the East.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For the moment, one does not expect advance -beyond “The Pasha’s” own striking example. He has -not only chosen his own bride, but dispensed with the -Imam—a parallel to the first Englishman who dared to -marry in a registry office!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I always said this man would scatter many <i>coupés -d’état</i>, once peace was signed; but he has not waited for -the signature!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The originality of his gifts to the bride recalls the -Prophet of Islam. Mahomet gave his daughter a -Koran, a prayer-carpet, and a coffee-mill; Mustapha -<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>Kemal has given his wife-to-be General Trécoupis’ -revolver and an Arab horse! She is an excellent -rider, sitting astride, with the veil only confining her -hair.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I much regret that I was never able to find an -opportunity of meeting this lady, partly because she -was educated at Chislehurst, almost next door to -my own school—Rochester.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Inevitably the Pasha’s liberal attitude towards -marriage has been criticised, and described as -“in direct opposition to the principles of Islam.” He, -however, will not admit the charge.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is true that, at the very door of Europe, women -have been content to live through the centuries in a -comfortable material security, that means being cut -out of all the realities of life, and all the serious -joys or sorrows of existence. It is not unnatural that -isolation should have kept them down so long.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But the harem was <i>not</i> invented by the Turks, and -has nothing in common with the nomad existence of -the Great Preacher of the Deserts. Polygamy and -the harem were first introduced when the Turks -entered Byzantium as conquerors. They served, in -those troublous times, as the best means available -for the protection of women, and proved a fine school -of instruction for Georgian Circassian slaves.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is false to say that Eastern women have -blamed their religion for the evils, so many now recognise, -of seclusion. The most ignorant are quite -familiar with the great names of women who have been -the glory of Islam. Mahomet’s own daughter, the “Lady -of Paradise,” spoke to large audiences of dusky-skinned -Arabs, her face unveiled. Neither did Zeyneb, the -famous and beautiful professor at the University of -Bagdad, wear the veil. Khadidja sang in public, -her own beautiful songs, still known and admired all -over the East. Rhadyah, one of the first great travellers -among these lands, was also an eloquent lecturer, -applauded by the most learned men of Islam.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Therefore are not the women themselves to blame -<span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>for their prolonged isolation? or was it the régime of -Abdul Hamed?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mustapha Kemal has not only offered his wife the -privileges Mahomet accorded to his daughter, but he -has swept from the path of Islam the retrograde -heresies that Byzantium grafted on to the Faith.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span> - <h2 id='ch21' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXI</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>A TURKISH CABINET—THE THREE BEST-KNOWN MINISTERS—A CABINET OF YOUNG MEN</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Unlike</span> the European type to which we are accustomed, -the Cabinet of the Assembly is almost exclusively -composed of very young men, possessed, however, of -the strong determination to serve their country.</p> -<p class='c012'>Mustapha Kemal Pasha has great faith in youth, -and his oldest minister is probably no more than forty-two. -“Youth,” he said, “makes mistakes that can -be corrected; age and experience make the mistakes -of routine.” Fethi Bey, who is the chief’s right hand, -also believes in youth, and was himself a minister at -thirty-two.</p> - -<div id='i192' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i192.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>RAUF BEY—PRIME MINISTER.<br /><span class='sc'>Ex-Naval Officer.</span><br />He speaks perfect English and knows England better than any other Turk.<br />p. 192</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Here, again, the Prime Minister and his Cabinet are -independent, the one of the other. One may fall, while -the other remains. I am inclined to think, on closer -examination, that the Ministers are seldom entrusted -with the initiative and responsibility which <i>our</i> Ministers, -in theory at least, enjoy; although for them all criticism -and supervision comes, as it were, from below. -They might, perhaps, be best described as Heads of -Departments, whose every action is open to all eyes -in the Assembly, submitted to the keenest scrutiny, -and freely discussed. Sometimes they seem able to -keep their position after heated discussions and interpolations, -but, on the other hand, they may fall in -consequence of some detail which, with us, would pass -unnoticed—such as the nomination of an unsatisfactory -functionary. They are all, certainly, very able men; -with extraordinary energy, enthusiasm, and devotion. -Although not constituted as a formal Cabinet, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>they meet to consider the most important questions -that will come before the Assembly. Mustapha -Kemal Pasha is entitled to preside at these meetings -whenever he desires to be present; but, as a rule, -the Chair is taken by Rauf Bey, Prime Minister without -a Portfolio. They are not appointed by the President -or the Prime Minister, but <i>elected</i> by the whole Assembly.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have discussed this system with many of our -European statesmen, who, one and all—including Lord -Curzon—do not consider that it could permanently work -well or be successfully applied to any stable, important -State.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turks, however, maintain that a Minister should -only be elected to watch, as it were, the special interests -and concerns of his Department, and that the -<i>People</i> themselves should be <i>responsible</i>, through their -representatives in Parliament, for <i>all</i> legislation. The -Assembly controls both law-making and administration.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For them, of course, we of the West cannot decide, -or, perhaps, judge. We have scarcely of late years -earned the right to criticise!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Rauf Bey is a man of about forty, a gentleman -as we understand the word, who has travelled among -the best intellects of Europe, and had the courage and -energy to adapt many ideals thus acquired to the needs -of his own country. His brilliance and his devotion -are universally acknowledged.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Formerly a Naval officer, he distinguished himself -in all the wars of the last twenty-five years; and his -command of the <i>Hamidieh</i> in the Balkan War, against -the whole of the Greek Fleet, is not yet forgotten. -As Marine Minister in Izzet Pasha’s Cabinet he accompanied -General Townshend and Admiral Calthorpe to -Mudros, and signed the Armistice with the Allies. -In the Chamber of Deputies at Constantinople he did -not hesitate to avow his allegiance to Mustapha Kemal, -and was consequently one of the first to be arrested by -the English and sent to Malta. Handsome, intelligent, -a hard worker, subtle and liberal-minded, he very -soon came to the front. He was the first Vice-President -of the Assembly, and became Prime Minister last -<span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>May. During the absence of Ismet Pasha at Lausanne, -he also acted as Minister of Foreign Affairs.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I heard him several times during my stay in Angora, -and his fearless speeches were not only a political -event, but always caused something of a sensation outside -the capital.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He has never disguised his love for England, nor -what he owes to her education. The disillusion after -Mudros and at Malta was hard to bear. He had not -only to mourn for a shattered idol, but to suffer abuse -from his fellow-countrymen for a trust of which he had -been so proud.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He is, however, far too intelligent to quarrel with a -whole nation for the errors of its Government. “The -future depends on England,” he said; “we can do -nothing to improve relations until peace is signed; -but there will be abundant opportunities in the future, -and, if England is willing, she can come to us then.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“In six months,” I replied, “we shall be as great -friends as ever we were.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That, again, depends entirely upon you.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I asked him whether large concessions had been made -to France in return for her political support.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As the first to understand the Nationalist movement,” -he replied, “we owe her a great moral debt; -which I have myself acknowledged and called on the -world to witness. But for concessions, the field is open -to all. We shall, naturally, accept the most advantageous -offer.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Rauf Bey has strong theories about education; -and has determined that it shall be made to develop -the new Ideal. He closed a school at Adalia because -the children had been taught that Smyrna is Greek and -the Eastern villayets are Armenian. “Every Turk -should learn that Smyrna has never been Greek; an -alien minority, protected by foreign powers, has been -the cause of all our troubles.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is, obviously, of the first importance that Turkish -children should be inspired, from the beginning, with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>loyalty to the Fatherland by knowing the fine story -of its growth. “We need schools, and good foreign -schools,” said Rauf Bey, “but until they will work -under our supervision and control we show no favour -to any offender, French, American or Italian—we close -all.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I hear that in the American College at Broussa a -Turkish woman has been appointed to teach geography -and history, a concession one hopes will soon be generally -adopted.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Rauf Bey had told me, on board the <i>Agamemnon</i>, -what had been said to Admiral Calthorpe when the Armistice -was signed: “We are here to end the terrible -bloodshed of so many years. We accept these terms -because we know that the great English nation and the -Allies will keep their words.” Then, to his own -officers: “Is it not true, gentlemen, England always -keeps her word?” and they all answered, “Yes.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>But we know what happened!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>So much has been written about his unfortunate -reception in London in 1922, that Fethi Bey, the -Minister of the Interior, is well known to us. Seeing -that everyone is given a courteous hearing in Turkish -Ministries, one feels this unnecessary discourtesy the -more. And Fethi Bey, like Mustapha Kemal Pasha -and Rauf Bey, was an ardent admirer of England, -cured for ever by the war of any affection for Germany.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As an Army officer, for two years military attaché -in Paris, secretary to the Committee of Union and Progress -in Sofia, and Minister of the Interior in Izzet -Pasha’s Cabinet, Fethi Bey has had a varied and useful -career. During his stay in Sofia, Mustapha Kemal -was his military attaché, and they were both -staff captains at Salonika. It was as a prisoner in -Malta that he learnt the fluent English he had so little -occasion to speak in London.</p> -<p class='c024'> </p> -<div class='box1'> - -<p class='c024'><span class='sc'>Fethi Bey, Minister of the Interior of New Turkey.</span></p> - -<p class='c012'>No picture of Angora could be complete without a photo of Fethi Bey. -As this has not arrived in time, we leave his place empty, as one leaves the -place of the absent friend at the festive board—unfilled.</p> - -</div> -<p class='c025'>He is very observant and far-seeing, undemonstrative, -and, despite his charming smile, bitingly sarcastic; -<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span>not, perhaps, quite so daring as Rauf Bey, but more -level-headed. In a country devastated from end to -end, and lacking in every necessity, he has shown marvellous -skill as an organiser. Very early each morning -he leaves his simple villa at Tchan-Kaya for the tiny -primitive office in which he “handles” a constant -stream of callers, busy about every variety of concerns, -with an almost American speed. After a hasty -lunch he goes to the Assembly, and finally rides home, -often through many inches of snow, in which no car -or carriage could make its way.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The last of the “three great men” of the Assembly, -Ismet Pasha, is well known and respected in Europe -for his titanic duel with Lord Curzon.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Though now only thirty-eight, it was he who created, -out of nothing, the fine army which chased the Greeks -out of Asia Minor. Victor at the two In Eunus, -it was he who won back all the enemy-occupied territory -as far as the Mediterranean. As victor also at Moudania, -it was he who, with a dignified courtesy that -astonished the whole Conference, defended the -“Nationalist” interests at Lausanne.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Of the other personalities in the Cabinet one could -write much. To understand, and sum up, the strength -and importance of the Assembly, one must meet and -know them all.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span> - <h2 id='ch22' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>TURKISH CABINET—THE LESS-KNOWN MINISTERS OF THE SOVEREIGN STATE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>In</span> judging the members of the Cabinet one must realise -that some of them do not speak any European languages, -and know little, or nothing, of Western ways. In some -cases, for example that of Hassan Fehmi Bey, the -Minister of Finance, this is due no doubt to their -humble origin. They tell me, however, he “knows -the requirements of New Turkey.”</p> -<p class='c012'>The Minister of Education, Sefa Bey, represents -Adana and is somewhat the same type of man, reserved -and timid to exaggeration.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>There are many Deputies in the Assembly of wider -knowledge and better understanding outside their own -country who would seem, at least to us, more suitable -men for these important Ministries. But we cannot -expect to understand all the influences which determine -the election of a Turkish Cabinet; only hoping that, -as the years pass and the Assembly becomes concerned -with wider issues, it may be led by men, assuredly no -less loyal to their own nation, who yet desire rather to -understand our civilisation, to live in closer contact -with Europe, than merely to turn away from us as -the object of their eternal hate.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The host who has so graciously welcomed me to -his home in Angora is Feszi Bey, Minister of Public -Works. He learnt something of Europe, and a little -of the French language, when exiled to Malta. I have -already recorded evidence of his kindness and generosity, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>which is certainly not confined to the horses he -shelters with so much care in preference to any thought -of damage his carriage must suffer by exposure. -Simple in tastes and manner, he yet gives one the impression -of great power and activity; while the remarkable -agricultural schemes inaugurated on his vast -estates have been carried out with prudence and success.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Kiazim Pasha, the Minister of National Defence, is -a young man on fire with energy. He was in command -of an army and corps at Sakharia and largely responsible -for the supplies and the organisations which led -the army of Ismet Pasha to victory. Like many impulsive -natures, he is subject to frequent attacks of -pessimism, from which I have striven to rouse him by -the assurance that we <i>will not have</i> war.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Minister of Economics, Mahmoud Essad Bey, -is, of course, responsible for agriculture, commerce, and -industry. Having studied these subjects in Switzerland, -his practical activities are guided by sound -theoretical knowledge.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Ali Fouad Pasha was the distinguished general who -fought against the Greeks in September, 1921, and -has succeeded M. Kemal as President of the group -formed to uphold the “Rights of Roumelia and Anatolia.” -The Assembly itself developed, or grew out -of, this little band of patriots, who are still its leading -spirits, the chief inspirers of its policy. At present, -the opposition which <i>does</i> exist has very little -power or influence; a drawback, as we know to our -cost, in any Parliament; which, however, may very -well be of temporary advantage to the Assembly until -the Turks are really secure from external interference.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I was again impressed, almost startled, by the -change that is in progress in the conditions of life in -Turkey, as I looked down upon the present Cheik-ul-Islam, -called in, “as a mere form,” to depose the -Khalif, with no more ceremony than one directs the -dentist to extract a tooth.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In the old days I well remember the odour of incense -and sandalwood in the sanctuary of Abdul -<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>Hamid’s Cheik-ul-Islam, as the great man sat cross-legged -under his enormous pumpkin-hat, amidst the -picturesque surroundings of historic, ancient, religious -ceremony. To him it seemed that for a cheik to -dethrone a Sultan, as he foresaw must soon be the -command, would be a solemn and awful thing. I -could not imagine <i>him</i> modestly waiting for orders, -as his successor is waiting to-day. How are the -mighty fallen!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Though propaganda has busied itself already, -in the attempt to find flaws in the power and popularity -of Mustapha Kemal Pasha, his supremacy remains -unquestioned. So far, when his party says go, -the Assembly goeth, and when he says come, it -cometh.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is certain, nevertheless, that, as the new order -settles in its stride, the Government will be confronted -with many difficulties of which we cannot -as yet foresee the precise nature. M. Kemal is at least -two centuries ahead of some of his own Ministers, four -hundred years in advance of the peasants, now -suddenly, without preparation, made citizens of a -Republic—a sovereign people. I have seen the -peasants in their homes—those charming little pictures -out of the sixteenth century. Without the least knowledge -of, or interest in, what <i>we</i> have come to call -civilisation, these simple folk have been vegetating -through the centuries, free from the noise of great -cities and the anxieties of progress. Though always -ready to fight and die, as we say “for King and -Country,” the symbol of their faith and inherited -traditions, they had, and still have, no idea whatever -of any government system, or who makes the laws. -Naturally sober and religious—not poor, since they -had always enough bread—these children of the soil -have known no ambition to improve their quiet -and happy lives.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>It may be Kemal Pasha could do more with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>only his big Ministers and no Assembly. On the -other hand, quicker progress might prove unsettling, -and the founders of New Turkey need no advice from -us. They have chosen what seems to them the -better way; we can but pray for their success. -No doubt, as France floundered through revolution, -they will be driven to face a thousand bitter disappointments -and delays. In times that have well-nigh -submerged the land of the Mother of Parliaments, -the Assembly must face rocks ahead.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Now that New and Independent Turkey has her -chance, she should take it. Rome was not built in -a day; and when difficulties come, as come they must, -let none scoff with a cheap “I told you so.” Only -leave Turkey to the Turks, and, like other nations, -they will try and try again, until, at last, they succeed.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span> - <h2 id='ch23' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXIII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>THE FOREIGN COLONY IN ANGORA—A GROUP OF FOREIGN PERSONALITIES</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>We</span> cannot complete our record of “Personalities” -in Angora without some mention of the foreigners in -residence. Whatever has been asserted, there are no -Germans there.</p> -<p class='c012'>Quite apart from the Turkish officers’ personal -antipathy, the Germans have no money for concessions; -their educational methods would never take -root in Anatolia; they have lost the legend of military -superiority which was the only <i>raison d’être</i> of their -influence in the past. Before the military genius of -the Turks, their great generals have been compelled -to <i>baisser pavillon</i>. Even during the war Turkey saw -through German bluff, and the taste of army -arrogance was amply efficient to kill the unnatural -alliance for ever. I can definitely assert, by way of -checking the prominence given to false statements of -Teuton influence, that <i>there are no Germans in Angora</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On the other hand, it is true that a subtle form of -propaganda is still at work in Germany itself. There -a Turk can obtain, by merely showing a passport, a -document that entitles him to all the “special” terms -given to “natives” at hotels, theatres, and shops.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have already described the glories of the Soviet -Embassy, and that distinguished economist, Camarade -Areloff.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Azerbaijan Ambassador, M. Abiloff, represents -the four states of the Caucasian Confederation; -whose rather commercial policy is not very popular.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Sultan Ahmed Khan has been representing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span>Afghanistan in Angora for two years. He tells me that -any communications with his Government seem almost -as difficult as with Persia, whose Ambassador has now -returned to his own country.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The personality of Colonel Mougin has done much -for the important commercial interests of his country, -but he is far too wise to imagine that France is the -Power on whom M. Kemal ultimately counts to save -Constantinople from the Russians.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mr. Imbrie, the American commercial attaché, has -been entrusted with the double duty of protecting -concession-hunters from the States and organising -the “American Near East Relief Workers in Anatolia,” -administered in Angora by Mr. Compton and his -charming wife, who must have stepped out of the frame -of a dainty miniature. Mr. Imbrie, by the way, lives -in a railway <i>salon</i>, and when his wife arrives we hope -that her rugs and cushions and curtains may be as -pretty as Mrs. Compton’s.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is very unfortunate that all relief work -has been so wickedly hampered by friends of Armenia -in the States. Their ridiculously unjust, anti-Turkish, -propaganda must have been inspired by the American -version of <i>Ally Sloper’s Half-Holiday</i>!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Moreover, Americans never give relief which they -cannot themselves administer. Maybe the implied -affront to Turkish competency is unintentional, but -Kiazim Kara Békir Pasha (who looks after five hundred -orphans without a penny from the State, and has -established many “professional” schools) has a right -to resent it. His compatriots are often tempted to -exclaim, “Keep your dollars,” for American charities -are always administered with a business manner -that scarcely conciliates the recipient; and one must -wonder, for example, how the Armenian priest can -provide for his flock of seventy on four hundred liras -(3,000 francs) a month. They do not evangelise -with much tact, and Turkey can hardly be expected -not to sense the Armenian behind the missionary.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Nevertheless, America has done a great deal for -education, and one sincerely hopes that her colleges -<span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>will keep out of propaganda. Every Turk will -acknowledge the supreme value of the institutions -that have produced brilliant pupils like Halidé Edib -Hanoum, and they will know very well how much the -women of Turkey can gain from them, <i>not</i> to be gained -from their own system of education. I admire -Turkish women very much, and have enjoyed their -company in their own homes, but I am none the less -ready to honour the work of their American teachers -that has already given them so splendid a start towards -real progress and complete freedom.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One must not forget the Imperial Ottoman -Bank, now destined, by decree of the Assembly, to -become the Bank of Turkey. The fact will, I hope, be -freely advertised, so that all over Anatolia its origin may -not be forgotten, whilst its increased power becomes well -known, and the people may learn to regard it as what -the French call a real <i>Maison du bon Dieu</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Already to-day, even in remote places like Angora, -you can “inquire within for everything” at its -well-organised branches. Whether with or without -directions from headquarters, the Bank of Angora is -always ready to supplement one’s stores, and supply -extra beds or special information, and any traveller -in the heart of Asia Minor will know the value of such -little courtesies! Of course, its financial backing -of Anglo-French capital forms the surest possible -passport for universal confidence.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We may hope, too, that its official position in the -State may soon have the indirect result of diminishing -our foolish jealousies of French influence. France -asks, and deserves, some gratitude for her courage in -admitting the error of her ways at Sèvres, but she -has no ambition to undermine British interests.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Turkey needs capital, and American help involves -interference from men too far away for understanding. -Anglo-French capital, the more the better, means -good terms in the East between us, and real friendship -towards Turkey, for “where their treasure is, there -is the heart also.”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span> - <h2 id='ch24' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXIV</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>HALIDÉ EDIB HANOUM, AUTHOR AND PATRIOT—A WOMAN DOWERED WITH THE ALL-CONQUERING GIFTS OF THE TRULY BRAVE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>There</span> can scarcely be a worse misinterpretation of -the Turks to-day than the common assumption that -they do not value their women. As an example to -prove this we turn to the charming writer and patriot, -Halidé Edib Hanoum. Not only well known for her work -in England and America, she is respected and honoured -throughout the length and breadth of her own country, -trusted with positions of responsibility, consulted and, -above all, listened to, by those at the helm of affairs.</p> -<p class='c012'>As one of their brilliant journalists once said in the -ante-room of the Assembly: “We gave her a place -in the army. She would have gone with the delegates -to Lausanne had her health permitted. She was -elected a Member of the Assembly, and now we realise -the Constitution does not yet admit women, we shall -remove all such restrictions.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Strong evidence of eager homage to a brilliant -woman emphatically expressed! I had met this -famous lady in the old days, when we were friends -with Turkey, and am naturally anxious to renew the -acquaintance, if only to talk over the terrible happenings -that have transformed her, alas! into one of the -bitterest of England’s enemies. I am sure that, like -Mustapha Kemal, she will be rejoiced to come back -to us when we both change.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Her little farmhouse, most charming of rustic homes, -stands on a rough road, at this time of year inches -deep in mud, about an hour’s drive from Angora. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>A clear stream runs by the way, and all around is -silent and calm, save for the very occasional noise of a -passing carriage. In summer, with the sun shining on -the grazing cows, it would seem an ideal spot for this -untiring worker.</p> - -<p class='c012'>A voracious reader of the Continental Press, Halidé -Hanoum has told me of her great amusement at the -report that her flight into Anatolia had been “promoted -by a desire to flee from harems and veils.” It is, of -course, in Constantinople that the women have so -largely cast off the old customs, whereas in far-away -Anatolia most are still rigorously kept in seclusion. -“People in Europe simply cannot grasp what our -civilisation means,” she said; “that is what makes it so -difficult for us to come to an understanding.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>She and her husband, Dr. Adnan Bey, now Angora -High Commissioner in Constantinople, would have -been imprisoned with the other Nationalists three -years ago had they not managed to escape to these -mountains. Clad in the picturesque costumes of the -villagers, with clogs on their feet, and a few possessions -crowded into a bullock-wagon, they made their -way slowly into Angora, dependent for food and -shelter upon the picturesque, but uncomfortable, -little inns on the way.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Since the victory of the Nationalists, she is free, of -course, to seek her equally picturesque home in -the heart of Stamboul; but, “How I love my Angora -farmstead!” she cried, as her quaint peasant waiting-woman -brought in coffee and cigarettes. There was -proof, at least, in the countless books, papers and -souvenirs from England around us that she has not -forgotten her education in the American College; -and, whatever her judgment of us to-day, she speaks -our language without a fault.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As the eye travels over the delicately-cut features -of Halidé Hanoum, the expression of sensitiveness -stands out as the greatest charm of her beauty. Yet -the quiet reserved manner cannot hide the force of -her mind and her compelling personality. Charm, -intelligence, great talent and courage, are all in her -<span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span>dower. What is it one admires the most? For me, -certainly, the all-conquering gift of the <i>truly brave</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As my father used to say of General Gordon: -“In the service of God and humanity, he was the bravest -of men; and in his sorest need or his greatest loneliness, -his courage rose all the time. To have known -Gordon is to say with certainty, ‘God is courage!’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>This fragile and thoroughly feminine little lady -was first in the field against Abdul Hamid, one of -the first to understand Angora, to leave all for the -Pasha, to work without ceasing for Nationalism and -the new Turkey. She tells me that a true account -of the Greek atrocities, as <i>she</i> saw them, will be -an important feature of her memoirs, though I -shall be, personally, more eager to read the story of -her own courageous achievements.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is only one of her judgments upon things -as they are which I regret, and believe to be mistaken. -Trained in an American college, and honoured as -she is all over the States, it is but natural -that she should blame England for leading America -astray on the subject of Christian minorities. Here -neither nation assuredly can plead not guilty; but the -exaggeration and the fervour of the false appeal -have come, I honestly believe, from across the Atlantic, -and not to them from us.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Halidé’s first literary achievement, for which she -was decorated by the Sultan, was to translate “The -Mother in the Home,” by an American pedagogue of -the sixties; just the kind of book one would expect -an intelligent young girl to choose!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I first met Halidé Hanoum just after she had succeeded -in ending her first marriage. The union was -not a happy one—she was then only seventeen—but -it brought her two fine sons, who are naturally very -proud of their mother. Education and training -among American-taught students had made it impossible -for her to lead the old harem existence, -but she was able to give herself up to deep study, -absorbing from her husband’s extensive library the -many original ideas she is now giving to the world. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>My friends have told me, and I can well believe, how -much one loses of beauty in her exquisite style of -writing from ignorance of the language. One envies -her the rare combination of a first-class Eastern and -Western culture.</p> - -<p class='c012'>During the reign of Abdul Hamid she was condemned -to death, and her “Memoirs” will, one day, -reveal to us the terrible suffering of those years. Now, -however, the pendulum has swung back, and she is -reaping the reward of her courageous work for young -Turkey by the high esteem and consideration she -universally receives. She was frequently consulted by -the late Talaat Pasha and the late Djémal Pasha, owing -to her exceptional knowledge of Western institutions. -It was at her house, too, I met the able and charming -editor of the <i>Tanine</i>, Hussein Djahid, afterwards with -us at Lausanne. All Turkey’s great men have visited -her, and visit her still; and, without doubt, much of -the destiny of her country has come to birth, if not -maturity, in her home.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Under the shadow of renewed war, this citizen in -the Great Republic of Letters could not refrain from -the sad topics of Greek atrocities and Lausanne, -but soon turned our talk to more congenial thoughts.</p> - -<p class='c012'>She asked after John Masefield, and I told her -that he had been a stretcher-bearer during the war, -and recently I sent him a laurel leaf from Rome -with an enclosed note: “Coming events cast their -shadows before!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I believe in frankly telling an author how much -one enjoys his work, and have myself often appreciated -the pleasures of such spontaneous flattery. Was I not -myself grateful to receive from Australian mothers -letters thanking me for “having written the truth -about the Turks.” Their sons were prisoners in -Turkey.</p> - -<div id='i208' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i208.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>BROUSSA.<br />General view of this charming Asiatic city.<br />p. 256</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div id='i208a' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i208a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>HALIDÉ HANOUM.<br /><span class='sc'>The Well-known Writer, Patriot, and Feminist Leader.</span><br />She has ridden all over Anatolia, making official reports for the Turkish Government concerning Greek atrocities.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div id='i208b' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i208b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='sc'>Dr.</span> ADNAN BEY.<br /><span class='sc'>High Commissioner for Constantinople.</span><br />Husband of Halidé Hanoum.<br />p. 208</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Sarojini Naidu, also a friend of Halidé Hanoum, -sent me an exquisite poem during the world’s despair. -As the words went perfectly to the tune of “Rose in -the Bud,” I have sung them again and again for conquest -in sorrow, and rejoiced in their magic power. To -<span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span>those yearning for higher things, to whom words of -faith bring comfort amidst the cold angles of life, the -little poem may have its message:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c022'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Nay, do not weep tho’ life be full of sadness;</div> - <div class='line'>Dawn will not veil her splendour for your grief,</div> - <div class='line'>Nor spring withhold that bright appointed beauty</div> - <div class='line'>From lily’s blossom or Ashaka leaf.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Nay, do not pine tho’ life be full of trouble;</div> - <div class='line'>Time will not pause nor tarry on his way.</div> - <div class='line'>To-day that seems so long, so strange, so bitter,</div> - <div class='line'>Will soon be some forgotten yesterday.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Nay, do not weep—new hopes—new dreams—new faces,</div> - <div class='line'>The unspent joy of all the unborn years,</div> - <div class='line'>Will prove your heart a traitor to its sorrow</div> - <div class='line'>And make your eyes unfaithful to their tears.</div> - <div class='c026'><span class='sc'>Sarojini Naidu.</span></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c027'>After the Constitution of 1918 had been proclaimed, -“Freedom for Women” became one of the -burning questions of the day. Here, Halidé Hanoum -was almost immediately the acknowledged leader, -and has ever since been urging her sisters, with noble -eloquence, to take the position so long denied them -in the life of the country. With her solid backing -from Talaat and Djémal, Djavid and H. Djahid, she -achieved wonders of awakening. In those old days I -had myself contributed to some of the excellent -women’s papers, which were brought out for the -discussion of educational and social problems, among -which I regret to have seen no more of that most -promising sheet, the <i>Kadinlar Dunyassi</i>. At the request -of the Department of Public Instruction, Halidé -Hanoum drew up a programme of Education for -Women and was herself appointed Chief Inspector -of Schools.</p> - -<p class='c012'>By the letter of the law at least, Turkish women -are in a much better position than women have yet -secured among us—to the disgrace of Western liberty. -They have always administered their own property, -signed all documents relating to their own affairs, -have the full privileges of a witness in the courts, and -are allowed to plead their own cases—we have not.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span>They were, unfortunately, kept back socially during -the retrograde régime of the ruthless Hamid; but their -fine work on the battle-fields of the Balkan wars, -side by side in the ranks with their men, and their -able organisation of the Red Crescent Society, carried -them forward <i>a hundred years</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There has been a certain amount of agitation for -the abolition of the veil, but the tradition withstands -reform, though it is now no more than a sort of toque, -or turban, such as we also frequently wear. However, -Halidé Hanoum—most advanced of feminists—has -never herself abandoned the veil, probably seeing in it -a Nationalist, if not a religious, symbolic significance.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I wish I could reproduce at least some of the finest -passages from some of her lectures. The noble spirit -of her inspiration yet speaks, even to those unable -to follow her words. No one can marvel that she set -her hearers on fire to save “all that remained of the -Turkish Empire—Anatolia.” As she has written, -“It is the love of race which first made the Turks a -mighty people. Whatever may come, rest assured -our race cannot die. It hath immortal life. Though -we stand alone against the world, our love of race -will give us courage. Till we can once more stand -proudly beside the nations, we will fear no obstacle and -shrink from no self-sacrifice!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>She gave to Mustapha Kemal Pasha, before -his full powers were proven to all, the words found -on the stone of an old Turkish Padishah:</p> - -<p class='c012'>“God appointed me ruler, that the name and fame -of the Turkish race might not be extinguished. I was -not appointed to rule over a rich, but over a poor, -people, scantily supplied with food and clothing. For -the Turkish race I slept not at night, I rested not by -day, I worked for my people till death.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Her work in Syria, interrupted, alas! by the war, -has established her remarkable powers of organisation; -and though she denies that she was ever actually in -the Cabinet, no one can doubt that she would make a -splendid Minister of Education. The deputies themselves -are so eager for her admission to the Assembly, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span>that we may easily soon hear that the department -has been placed in her able hands.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At Beyrout she converted the big building of the -Dames de Nazareth into a fine school, where, faithful -to her Western training, she gave special prominence -to Swedish drill, and where, as in the American -colleges, Moslem and Christian sit side by side. When -the English advanced in Syria she handed over her -schools, and her Armenian and Turkish orphans, to -the Americans, with the womanly entreaty that they -would “care for them and, above all, make them good -boys and girls.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turkey of her dreams and ambitions stands -for peace and territorial integrity, for progress in -education and equal rights to Moslems and Christians. -She knows when peace comes that England, with -no thoughts of intrusion, will yet be only too glad -to help. England is generous and hospitable. Turkish -students, in medicine and other faculties, have long -been with us (at Bedford College and elsewhere), -conquering all difficulties of language, climate, and -social customs, taking their degrees, etc, beside British -women. Our schools, our hospitals and clubs will -always welcome all who wish to come to us: as Halidé -Hanoum knew well, before I reminded her.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Despite their limited heritage, often from mothers -who cannot read or write, Turkish women are brilliant -students. I well remember trying to interest the -public in a friend of mine who, after specialising in -Gynæcology at Dublin, secured a London M.D. -But the paper which could not find space for this -interesting achievement gaily printed long columns -of “Arabian Nights” nonsense about the strange -ways of Turkey which belonged, in fact, to the period -of the woad-stained ancient Britons. If the public -really must have cheap romance, they would not -complain of an approximately correct date!</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is fortunate, indeed, for Turkey that their leading -feminist will work for progress on sound lines, and is -far too wise to see no farther for women than a junior -partnership with men.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>There are, at present, but few feminine stars -in the Turkish firmament. But all are loyally united -in one common cause—to gain their freedom and save -the Fatherland. It is too soon for us to indulge in -prophecy on what their final self-organisation may -achieve.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Halidé Hanoum, like so many others, is trying to -regain the health she spent so generously during the -war. Attached to the army as a sergeant, she followed -the troops without a thought of danger and fatigue; -and since the recent hostilities she has ridden from town -to town throughout Anatolia, collecting and arranging -her report of the Greek destruction and atrocities. -This report, controlled by experts and neutral commissions, -was sent to the Lausanne Conference. Halidé -Hanoum’s expression is sad. “How can I help loving -my Anatolian home?” she said. “It has cost us such a -terrible price in lives and suffering to save our land, -we naturally would all die now rather than live in -slavery again.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I am horrified to hear,” she went on, “that anyone -can still attribute the fire in Smyrna to the Turks. -Why do they not accuse them, too, of burning Asia -Minor? Will it always have to be so? Although the -Greek atrocities committed in our land are too horrible -even to talk or write about, excuses are always found -for the Greeks, while anything done by the Turks is -grossly, unjustly exaggerated. If one Christian dies, -the whole Christian world is concerned, as it should be. -But, on the other hand, when a whole community of -Moslems is wiped out, no one cares.... It is this -spirit of injustice that exasperates Moslems. Now, -however, our recent victory gives us the right to demand -equal consideration with Europeans, no more, no less.” -But, “speaking of Greek atrocities,” she continues, -“the world has simply <i>got to know</i> what they were -during this war. Dr. Nansen, of the League of -Nations, is busy lecturing on the Greeks’ suffering, but -what of the Turks’? All the terrible devastation to -which you can testify, all the number of women and -children burnt and violated; the world must have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span>these figures to pass judgment on the Greeks. This -eternal and unjust fault-finding with the Turk not -only breaks his spirit (remember he is an Asiatic), but -incites him to do things he never otherwise would -think of doing. It is a most dangerous policy.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>With regard to the Conference, Halidé Hanoum -seems to have lost her usual optimism. “Are we right to -have faith?” she asked. “We all of us welcomed -a change in the British Government, and hoped that -our interests would be impartially discussed at -Lausanne, but what is happening?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The two actions which Halidé Hanoum considers -<i>most</i> unjust to Turkey are the endeavours to exempt -Christians from military service and the retention of -the Greek Patriarch. “After the effort we have made -to be free, we must have our country to ourselves, -and if the Greeks expect equal rights with the Moslems, -they must fight for those citizen rights. As to the -Patriarch, imagine asking us to keep a man who had -taken advantage of his sacred calling to turn his -flock against us.... Will the Western Powers always -interfere? All our history goes to prove that Turks -and Christians have lived together in perfect harmony. -When the Powers began to interfere, however, the -Christians showed the basest ingratitude. They invented -the most wicked stories, knowing there was no -justice for us, and that whatever they said would be -believed. Now the Powers who turned the Christians -against us cannot keep their promises. The -Christians want to come back to us. But we will have -<i>no more</i> interference.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If the Conference is only to be an excuse to wear -the Turks out, why should we wait, only to fight in -the end? A policy of slow death is intolerable. We -do not seek war, though we are ready to fight, -because we want to build up our country, take care -of and educate our people, and give them a little of -the comfort and happiness they deserve. Rather -than have an unjust vassal-peace,” she concluded, -“let us perish altogether.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>The picture of Halidé Hanoum confronts us on -all sides throughout Anatolia. Among the heroes -of the revolutions, the Turks reverence her as their -Joan of Arc. No history of the Nationalist movement -can ever be attempted or thought of without a full -record of her courageous loyalty and untiring patriotism.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I was once asked to suggest the best way of helping -forward the cause of women in Turkey. I naturally -answered that I would give them England’s <i>best</i>: -her social and nursing service, but, above all, her -literature. M. Henri Taine wrote of us: “The -English are a horrible race, but they have done all -there is to be done in literature.” It has always -made me ashamed to find so few English books in -Turkish schools. Of course, at present, our language -is not widely known among these people; but, as the -nations of the world grow closer in thought and faith, -one hopes that they, too, may share the inspiration -and moral uplifting so many have found in our best -classics.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We should surely endeavour to remove the reproach -implied by the words of Professor E. J. Browne: -“French influence has played too large a part, both -in the political and literary field, in the evolution of -New Turkey, and French ideas have too long dominated -Turkish reformers.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The life of Florence Nightingale and her precepts, -our science and the writings of George Eliot, these -few names and ideas may serve to indicate the treasure -we have for all men. Our literature is a gold mine, -which I, for one, long to see given its full honour -and pre-eminence in the education and development -of the women of Turkey.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span> - <h2 id='ch25' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXV</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>HOSPITALS—SCHOOLS—EDUCATION AND THE NATIONALIST WRITERS—THE DAYS PASS, BUT THERE IS STILL MUCH TO BE DONE AND SEEN</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>One’s</span> first impression of Angora would lead one to -imagine that everything could be seen in a very -short time; but the days pass, and there is still much -to be done. I have visited the Governor, and congratulated -him on the progress of the town’s development, -which has advanced steadily, even since my -arrival. If there were only peace, one could soon -hope for completion.</p> -<p class='c012'>My guide, Vely Nedjdat Bey, understands what -will interest me most; and the efforts of the Red -Crescent, disclosed on our round of the hospitals, -have given me a most agreeable surprise. The -sanitation leaves much to be desired from -our Western standards, but progressive Turks have -now learnt the importance of such matters, and are -determined to change their old ways, after the peace. -It would be a formidable undertaking, at the moment -impossible, to carry out the drastic alterations that -are essential in these primitive buildings, with no -modern heating apparatus, and so few well-trained -professional nurses. Under such conditions they have -done marvels with serum, and have actually kept -down cholera, typhus, typhoid, and small-pox with -extraordinary success. It is only unfortunate that -they have adopted the French method of typhoid-inoculation -right into the breast, which, though often -effective, is certainly dangerous for women.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The military hospital at Broussa—formerly the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>Splendid Hotel, overlooking a magnificent stretch of -landscape—is excellently organised; and though asked -for criticism by Dr. Nazoum, head of the Army Medical -Service, I could not think of any improvement to -suggest.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We spent a morning at the Lycée for Girls, which -was interesting, though I could not, of course, follow -any of the classes in detail. Here, again, one can -obtain the most charming views of the town of Angora, -and I told the headmistress how I longed to carry -away their wonderful front door. She was, -evidently, pleased by the sincerity of my compliment, -and had no fear lest I should follow the example of -the Ambassador at Constantinople. His wife had so -greatly admired a superb Byzantine fountain in our -garden, that my host promptly gave orders for it to -be dug up and sent to the Embassy, where it still -remains!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Young as she seemed, the headmistress clearly -recognised the responsibilities of her position, which -were—at once so hampered and so increased—in a -state of war. At many of the Lycées in Anatolia -there was a man as headmaster, his wife being the headmistress; -during the war the men, of course, had all -gone! Education, after all, can do nothing if there is -no Fatherland—no one to educate!</p> - -<p class='c012'>One class was being instructed by a hodja on the -meaning of their prayers and the general principles -of the Faith; and I also heard classes in history and -geography, literature and hygiene. I was told that, -in hygiene, the subject that morning was the evils of -alcohol as a beverage. They were taught, however, -in what ways alcohol <i>can</i> be used actually to benefit -mankind. All honour to those who teach their children, -from the first, the terrible curse of drink!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The girls recited patriotic poems for my benefit -which sounded very beautiful to the foreign ear. It is, -I suppose, the sequence of even and uneven syllables -which produce this musical effect. They were taught, -apparently, in all subjects to stand up and answer -questions in a short speech: surely an admirable -<span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span>training, likely to ensure their knowing how to -use the language in writing and speaking with far -more correctness, elegance, and effect than most of -our young people ever attempt.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I peeped into the dormitories, which, like the class-rooms, -seemed in excellent order. Coffee and tea -were laid out for us in the recreation-room; and before -we left the head-girl expressed their pleasure and -thanks in what was—evidently—a neat and charming -little speech.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I felt, however, that, like the headmistress of Broussa -College, my hostess no doubt regretted that there were -now neither Greeks nor Armenians at the school. -There had been no more difficulty in the class-rooms -than elsewhere through life, as to maintaining perfect -harmony between Moslem and Christian. I was told -that, though the latter were generally supposed to -be the cleverer, Turkish girls were, in a way, more -keen and quick to learn. They had, at any rate, a -quite friendly desire not to be beaten, and now -they miss the valuable competition.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In olden days, though women even attained to -fame in politics and literature, the general standard -for education was elementary, and no public provision -for it had been made.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Primary schools were started about sixty years -ago; secondary and professional schools soon followed. -There are now girls’ schools wherever one for boys has -been established; in most towns also a Lycée for -Girls, and Normal Colleges in many counties of Asia -Minor. There is a Training College at Constantinople, -from which the senior students also attend lectures at -the Women’s University, which shares laboratories -and lectures—in science and medicine—with the -University for men. I suspect, sometimes, Mustapha -Kemal Pasha may introduce co-education throughout!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>So much interesting literature has been produced by -the Nationalist movement, that one must hope Professor -E. G. Browne may, one day, pursue his splendid -<span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>defence of Turkey by giving us extensive extracts from -these writers in English. The greatest of all our -living scholars in Turkish, Persian, and Arabic, he -has devoted his whole life to the fascinating subject; -and Prince Samad Khan has told me that he lectures -in Persian without the trace of an accent.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Graciously writing a Preface to my “Englishwoman -in a Turkish Harem,” he said that as “a friend and -admirer of the Turks, as well as a student of their -language and literature, it is always a satisfaction to -me to find a fresh opportunity of testifying to my belief -in the virtues of this much-maligned and ill-used -race.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Recent events, however, seem to have paralysed his -enthusiasm, bringing depression that killed his zeal -for the task he now felt it would be of no avail to -pursue.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Nationalist victory, let us hope, will encourage -him to resume work with a revived, and ever greater, -enthusiasm. I had intended, indeed, to ask him for -a summary of the “Nationalist Literary Revival,” -by way of a chapter in this book. But there was not -time to presume so far on the kindness he has never -refused to show.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have, therefore, reproduced, to the best of my -ability, a few notes put together for me by that distinguished -Professor, Hussein Raghib Bey, formerly -Director of the Angora Press, and now Charge d’Affaires -at the Paris Embassy. He is an exceptionally well-informed -critic in the education, literature and politics -of his own country, which travel also enables him to -compare with the educational systems of Europe. -He told me that, while he admired the thoroughness -of German methods, he could not tolerate their unjust -administration of corporal punishment, which, in -his judgment, vitiated the whole system. Turkish -schools have all adopted French methods; and, -myself a proud pupil of the École Normale Supérieure -de Sèvres, I do not believe there is any finer instruction -in the world. But in the fullest sense of real and -complete education, the best work is being done in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>England. The ideal would seem to be a combination -of the two.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Hussein Raghib took me right back to the “Divans,” -a collection, or portfolio, of more or less national -poems, celebrating the virtues of God and the Prophet. -Love-poetry does not begin before Fouzouli, in the reign -of Suliman the Magnificent. Any ghazals (<i>i.e.</i>, love -songs) that I have heard sung here do not seem to -express our conception of love. The music sounds -more tender and mournful than passionate, and the -song itself is often addressed to the Unknown, to Love -in the Abstract, and not to the individual Beloved. -Again and again I caught the word “pity,” suggesting -ideas and moods we should not expect to find.</p> - -<p class='c012'>After the “Divans,” we notice the strong influence of -Persian literature in Turkey, even the introduction -of Persian words—a consequence, no doubt, of wars -in Persia and Arabia. Moreover, the Koran was then -a predominating influence in all literature, as well as in -science; and Arabic was the language of religion.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was Selim, to whom the King of Egypt handed -over the Holy Relics—the standard, the coat, and -the wooden sculptured shoes—with the solemn injunction, -“They are yours—to hold; for you are qualified -to be Khalife.” From that day and for ever, any -Khalife who shall desert his guardianship of the Relics -is, by that sin, self-deposed. And Great Britain, the -largest Moslem Power in the whole world, revealed her -ignorance, or her indifference, by calling Wahid-Eddin, -“The Khalife,” long after his escape to Malta!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>We see, then, that in the days of Sultan Mahmoud -(that is, in our eighteenth century), the Turkish language -was largely composed of Arabic and Persian, -through the influence of religion. Then, precisely as -our people in the old days could not read or speak -the scholar’s Latin of our great literature, the people -of Turkey could not understand their own writers.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span>It was about 1339 (in our nineteenth century) that -the cultured and intelligent Schinassi Effendi was -sent to France. As other scholars and men of letters -began to study Western culture in England, in her -turn, Turkey was following European progress, towards -desertion of any scholastic influences and -academic style. Windows, that looked Westwards, -were opening at last, to religion and literature alike.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Schinassi Effendi was inspired by a fine, broad-minded -enthusiasm. He secured introductions to -Lamartine and other great French writers; and, -when he returned to Constantinople, immediately set -to work upon a complete revolution of style and outlook -in Turkish literature. With an ideal of most -admirable and direct simplicity, he succeeded in -modelling the language upon the best French, clear -and logical way of construction.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Perhaps the most distinguished of his pupils were -Namik Kemal Bey and Adbul Hak-Hamid; but there -were many who helped to extend, and establish, his -literary revolution. They did not, of course, cut -away the whole traditional influence of the Arabs -and the Persians; but, with orderly methods that were -Western, produced almost a new Turkish language -(which their own people could read and appreciate) -that was perfectly adapted for the artistic and imaginative -expression of modern thought and contemporary -life. The European style and intellect, in its purely -native setting, was, naturally, most apparent in their -fiction.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Namik Kemal Bey was among those who died in -exile for their ideals, leaving behind him some most -touching pages in honour of the English character -and constitution. When Zeyneb came to England she -read some of his work to me, just at the time when -some of our Liberal statesmen, to their eternal shame, -had begun to declare their admiration for the Russia -of the Czars. We arranged open-air meetings outside -Sloane Square Station and at a big Opera House—to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>protest against the British M.P.’s visit to -Russia. Zeyneb’s comment was simple: “What -would our great Kemal say?” Constitutional England -allied to Czarist Russia!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The acknowledged leader of the New literature -was Abdul Hak-Hamid, for some time a member -of the Turkish Embassy in London. Schinassi and -Kemal stood half-way between the past and this great -modern writer, representing, also, patriotism in -literature, as it dominated prose, at the declaration of -the Constitution.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At this time, of course, “patriotism” meant “the -Revolution of 1908,” a united attack on the tyranny -of Abdul Hamid, who had persecuted Turks, Greeks, -and Armenians alike.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Once the Constitution had been proclaimed, however, -the Armenians turned to Russia for help to -establish their own independence; the Greeks sought -to revive an “Empire” from Athens.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turks, who had never hesitated to appoint a -Greek or an Armenian among their Viziers and Foreign -Ministers, who always sent Christian Ambassadors to -England, and who had chosen the Armenian, Gabriel -Effendi Nouradunghian, for their Minister of Foreign -Affairs, were now driven to concentrate their betrayed -enthusiasm upon building up a Turkish nation <i>of their -own</i>—for themselves alone.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Their scholars, therefore, devoted themselves to -scientific research; social institutions were founded; -they studied philosophy, national economy, and -sociology; they prepared their own ethnography, -history, and geography, and the reformed Turkish -language.</p> - -<p class='c012'>They had, as it were, to build up a complete -learning; almost a universal knowledge; a true -world-culture for Eastern peoples; that, by its -“National” inspiration, should create for Turkey a -spirit and a soul.</p> - -<p class='c012'>That great <i>savant</i>, Zia Gueuk Alp, one of the Malta -victims, and afterwards Professor of Sociology at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span>Constantinople, has done more for the New literature -than any other one writer; as Mehmet Emin Bey, -who lives at Adalia, is their leading poet. They have -others, of course, who produced fine work; among -whom Yahia Kemal would probably prove the outstanding -genius, had he the energy to maintain his -highest gifts. The pangs of a Nation’s Birth, out of -Sacrifice, have found voice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There are two women of genius in this group. -To Halidé Hanoum we have already devoted a chapter, -in honour of a wise and passionate personality that -has impressed itself on the whole history of a generation. -We in England, I hope, are shortly to have a -translation of her remarkable “Nouveau Touran.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mufidé Hanoum (Mme. Ferid Bey) also approaches, -though she has not reached, the outstanding genius -of Halidé Hanoum. She is a younger woman, a less -experienced writer, and, maybe, she lacks the inspiration -that comes from long strain and suffering.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There are others,” concluded Hussein Raghib, -“whom you <i>ought</i> to know, though they are not equally -great.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But I’ve stayed too long already,” I replied, -“interrupting your work.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>And busy men, even in the East, must not neglect -the State for courtesies too prolonged.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Hussein Raghib himself has published a very -delightful “Story of Nationalism,” dating from the -Closing of the Turkish Parliament. “As a matter -of fact,” he writes, “the <i>Turc Odjagui</i> was the beginning -of Nationalism.” This was a club founded by Hamdoullah -Soubhi Bey as a protest against “Union and -Progress,” and to place the movement on a national, -as opposed to a party, basis. Halidé Hanoum and -other prominent women were admitted; and its three -thousand members included professional men like -officers, lawyers, doctors, professors and writers; and -men of all nationalities—Greeks and Armenians, -Persians and Arabs. It was closed by the English, but -has recently been re-assembled.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mustapha Kemal Pasha contributed handsomely -<span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>to the funds, and Hamdoullah Soubhi came from -Angora for the re-opening. “As our territory has -become smaller, our intellectual empire must become -wider,” said Hussein Raghib. “That is the spirit -behind the club.” I had, unfortunately, to leave for -Lausanne before the opening ceremony.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I have just been to the famous Hadgi Bairam -Mosque, and found its chief charm, as I expected, in -the exquisite colouring of the carpets and antique -faïences. These glowing scarlets and blues, mauves -and terra-cottas, surely compensate, in some -measure, for all the grey that overshadows life. -Europe would not seem so sordid if we imported more -bright colours from the East—for our <i>East</i> Ends! -Nothing fascinates me so much as the atmosphere -of a mosque; the un-selfconsciousness and natural -reverence of the men at prayers; out of the world, -in Allah’s home.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Surely faith is the same for all men, making all -men equal!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The gods,” said my guide, “are three—Goodness, -Beauty, and Truth.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“To which I would add Courage,” was my response.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As you please,” he answered.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He told me that “The Pasha” and the first Deputies -all came to visit the Mosque before the opening -of the Grand National Assembly, joined by everyone -in Angora—even sceptics—“to lift our hands to Heaven -in prayer, confident that victory must be ours.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>We went on to the tomb of the Sainted Man, -robed in shawl and turban, after the picturesque -Eastern manner. The guardian of the tomb was -seated before it on his crossed legs, reading the -Koran; and around him were many women, weeping -over their prayers.... “Is it for peace, or for their -dead?” I wondered!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>That afternoon I determined to try and find out -<span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>all I could about the army from some of my friends -at the Assembly.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You are very indiscreet,” said the officer, whose -attention I had managed to secure.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I know that,” was my reply; “it is a little like -asking St. Peter for just a peep into Heaven. -But you <i>can</i> tell me something?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What do you wish to know? Our normal -military service is for three years. We naturally -have to adopt conscription for an indefinite period -in times of war.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What was the meaning of the large crowd at the -Town Hall to-day?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They were enlisting. We cannot let go -now. The sovereign rights of the people must be -maintained.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You were beaten to the dust in the Great War,” I -suggested.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We <i>were</i> defeated in Palestine. But most of -our troops went to Cilicia; we were victorious in the -Dardanelles and the Caucasus. Few of the Powers -were forced to scatter their forces along so many -frontiers.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The English were nowhere near Mosul,” he went -on, “and they never really broke up our army; -they just took possession of Constantinople and, -through the Greeks, of Smyrna. They taught us -the <i>fait accompli</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It was necessary for us, of course, after the rupture -with Constantinople, to reorganise the whole -army. The Pasha was forced to call in officers to -train companies, even irregulars. Ali Fuad commanded -in the North; Refet Pasha in the South. At the -first battle we had two big guns only!</p> - -<div id='i224' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i224.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>AGHA AGLOU AHMED BEY.<br /><span class='sc'>Director of the Angora Press.</span><br />He sent a charming message to the author of this book complimenting her on her courage.<br />p. 224</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>“The work went on day and night: collecting -and training men, making or repairing arms and -munitions, gathering metal—often from railway lines. -No one thought of rest till all was ready in numbers -and construction. We had ten thousand men in July, -1920, we are four hundred thousand to-day! We -obtained four hundred and fifty big guns, and a fleet -<span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>of aeroplanes from the Greeks; a thousand machine-guns, -besides clothing, tents, horses and mules, -from the English.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Now we have no grounds for fear, though you -in England will not attempt to realise our Mosul -figures: <i>Turks</i>, 150,000; <i>Kurds</i>, 450,000; <i>Arabs</i>, -30,000; <i>Nestorians</i>, 30,000. The <i>Kurds</i> wish to -unite with us. The <i>Nestorians</i> will fight, either as -independent allies or under Turkish officers.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Colonel Mougin says that your army is the best -officered in the world,” I said.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Our Staff is composed of picked men with great -experience and knowledge; the officers have been -chosen with great care. We are young, energetic, -well-trained, and, above all, fired with enthusiasm -for the cause.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There is no calling more honoured than that of -the army. None may marry without the consent of -his superior officer.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Can he marry a Christian?” I asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He hesitated a moment, and then replied: “It -isn’t done.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Ah!” I smiled, “you have stolen our English -<i>credo</i>.”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span> - <h2 id='ch26' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXVI</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>LAST DAYS IN ANGORA: EXCURSIONS, CONVERSATIONS, PICNICS—HAÏDAR BEY’S PARTY</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Angora</span>, certainly, carries one back to the centuries -before Christ; although we now realise that life was -by no means without its luxury in those bygone days. -As the houses of Pompeii were warmed by hot air -behind the walls, and the baths were not only hygienic -but luxurious, it would puzzle one to find what now -remains in Angora from the comfortable period of -Augustus. There is also a prehistoric atmosphere about -Smyrna, or as it was once wittily expressed: -“Since its deliverance from Greeks and Armenians, -it has the charm of Sodom and Gomorrah after the -fire.”</p> -<p class='c012'>But every day I am more at a loss to imagine -where the thirty thousand inhabitants of Angora are -living to-day. I have seen some of them in their -charmingly improvised houses, made homelike by the -marvellous carpets of the East; but, as one always -goes back to one’s first love, I give up the problem, -and return to talk with the “élite” at the Assembly.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One day I found the Director of the Angora Press, -Aga Aglou Ahmed Bey, in his tasteful little ante-room, -and learnt that he, too, found it hard to forgive -the recent policy of Great Britain. He repeated, also, -the note of despair I hear so often: “Whatever we -do is wrong.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Yet,” he added, “had our movement originated -in America, we should have had the whole world at -our feet. All growing nations have been allowed to -separate Church and State. We have, indeed, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span>troubles within and without, but they have only -strengthened the spirit of Nationalism, which the -Pasha himself could not now destroy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Alas, poor Turkey! Abdul Hamid disposed of -Turks with amazing dexterity: he lost them, killed -them, or forgot them; and who cared? They were -not Christians!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Look what it cost us to depose the ‘Red’ -Sultan, and then we had the ‘Black’ Sultan. When -we got rid of him, Europe was not pleased. See how -the English are defending him; though one of your -charming countrymen told me they would not give -him ‘house-room’ in your own country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I suggested, and Halidé Hanoum agreed, we could -not refuse to find a safe home for our vassal; although, -certainly, his visit to Mecca could not be justified -by our refusal to go on paying his board in Malta.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Ahmed Bey expressed his enthusiasm for Lord -Curzon’s books on the East. As a young student, -he told me, he had written glowing appreciations of -this brilliant statesman, in whom all the Moslems had -once put their trust. From Malta, he wrote to Lord -Curzon: “One of your greatest admirers, who has often -expressed his eulogies in public, is now in prison, a -prisoner of peace, taken out of his bed....”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The names of Calthorpe and Milne will go down -through the history of Turkey; but not to the credit -of England.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here is the charming message sent to me by Aga -Aglou Ahmed Bey, Director of the Press of Angora:—</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I am, indeed, sorry that illness prevents my coming -to tell you personally what your visit means to us, -and the feelings of gratitude and respect that you -inspire in the hearts of all the Turks by your <i>courage</i> -and <i>love of the truth</i>....”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was particularly glad to hear that although, like -most of his compatriots, Ahmed Bey holds that all -propaganda is foreign to the character of the Turks, -he has determined to open a “Bureau of Information” -as soon as Peace is signed. I cannot doubt that this -will be a great benefit to all Islam.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>“<i>My</i> propaganda,” I told him, “would be inspired -by the determination to blazon abroad the marvellous -kindness of all your race. Few people have any idea -how hospitable and generous the Turks have been.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Dear Mademoiselle,” he replied, “you are right. -We have not the sky-scrapers of New York; but -we have big hearts. Yet we have given you so little -comfort....”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You have given me your best, and I appreciate -it. Hygiene and luxury are not everything; though -I have a pet theory of my own as to the holding of -hands between East and West in the realm of hygiene: -‘First, I wash myself <i>à la West</i>, or, as you call it, -in dirty water; then I perfect the ceremony <i>à la East</i>, -that is, in running water. On the other hand, for a -bath, I like to start with the Turkish and end with -the English. You see I am already half-Oriental.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Though rather exceptionally sympathetic and broad-minded, -I gathered from the Director that he, and -others, were not quite so enthusiastic about the French, -as they, certainly, had been quite recently. Much -was expected of France at Lausanne, and they were -disappointed in proportion.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The <i>Athenaeum</i> published a strange comment on -my last book about Turkey, from a writer who claimed -to know the East: “When a race becomes disciplined -and energetic, the number of blonde women becomes -greater!” I should not myself call many Turkish -men I met blonde; but I have a certain impression -of noticing a number of surprisingly fair men in -Angora; and, maybe, the energy of the Nationalists -is thus evidenced in the lighter colouring of their hair. -If there be even a grain of truth in the theory, it seems -a pity that women of all nations should resort to -peroxide and henna, when a little hard work would -have a better, and more lasting, effect.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>To-day, one feels the Grand National Assembly has -achieved success, and is permanently established. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>This sense of security is, no doubt, partly derived from -remembering what earlier parliaments, with scarcely -less loyal enthusiasm, attempted, and failed to achieve. -I remember my first visit to Adbul Hamid’s Parliament, -and the big hopes by which we were all then -inspired. It had been no easy matter to overthrow -that hideous tyrant, and we have no reason to blame -that Government for not realising our full expectations. -Other governments in other countries have failed again -and again on their road to ultimate success. On that -opening day, too, I remember seeing, with pity and -respect, a pale and lonely figure, seated silent among -the general rejoicings, unnoticed and forgotten. It -was the son of the great Midhat, who had established -a still earlier parliament. All honour to the pioneers.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>On another occasion Djellal Noury Bey, deputy -for Gallipoli and editor of the Constantinople -<i>Illeri</i> (or “Forwards”), gave me some further -impressions of the “Pasha” and of many interesting -Anatolian problems. However closely the leaders -agree on general principles, it is always helpful to compare -as many individual points of view as one can -obtain. Djellal Noury has been to England and the -States, and speaks perfect English and French. We -have mutual friends in London.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I asked whether I might go over the National -Pact with him, clause by clause; as although, -or rather because, I am so keen a friend to Nationalism, -I want to be <i>sure</i> whether there are any points in their -scheme, or their aims and attitude, that I <i>do</i> find -fault with, or should like to criticise.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He seemed only too delighted that anyone should -care so much for a full discussion of their important -work, and put everything before me as clearly and -thoroughly as I could possibly wish.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But I could find nothing unreasonable in a single -clause, if the Turkish nation is to achieve <i>real</i> -nationality.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As business men, for example, can the foreigners -<span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>justly wish to maintain exemption from taxes? As -Djellal Noury explained it: “The European and the -Turk buy goods, say at five francs. The European -pays no taxes and can sell for six francs. As the Turk -pays a tax, he has to charge seven francs, and, being -cut out in price, is naturally left with a large stock -in hand. These are conditions which, obviously, -cannot be maintained. Capitulations have strangled -the commerce of the country and its progress.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It may happen that one Power takes out a Concession -for the railways, but cannot, or will not, -fulfil ifs contract. We have to go without railways. -We cannot go elsewhere when a Concession has been -granted.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I complimented Djellal Noury upon the excellence -of his French. “I used to edit a French paper,” he -replied, as he looked round the ante-room in search -of anyone to whom I might especially like to be introduced. -For my part, my attention had just been -caught by one of the hodjas.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“These people do not think as we do,” he said, -catching the direction of my glance.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Then you are anti-Islam?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Not at all; I am strongly <i>pro</i>-Islam. The -broad-minded dogmas of our religion can meet all -modern requirements, moral or spiritual. But the -Koran is not properly interpreted by the hodjas. -The will of the people is our religion; service is -worship!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I remember a story of Mahomet I heard in Turkey. -“The prophet was one day walking with his disciples, -and passed a group of workmen on the river’s bank who -did not stop their task, even to salute him. When his -disciples inquired whether these men should not be -called to order, he replied: ‘Work and service are the -greatest homage that the faithful can pay to their -prophet.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I had already conceived the idea that Nationalism -is a religion. One sees the National Pact beside -the bedside, as we have our prayer-books. Colonel -Tewfik has a copy, bound like a small almanac, in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>his waistcoat pocket. The principles of Angora are -their “Holy Gospel.” To be a Nationalist is to stand -for your country’s most vital interests.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We spoke of the Press—Turkish as well as British. -The whole Turkish Press stands for Nationalism, irrespective -of any opposed local opinions or interests. -With us, the fine independence of other days has departed—one -hopes not for ever. In the hands of a -few party-peers one could, perhaps, expect nothing -better. Were it not anti-Islam, one would name the -<i>Manchester Guardian</i> as the most honest newspaper -to-day.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Djellal Noury had given up so many afternoons to -explaining to me the whole policy of Nationalism, that -I was grieved to hear of his having called to see me one -afternoon when a party had been arranged for me by -the colonel to join one of their shooting expeditions. -I wish he could have been persuaded to join us.</p> - -<p class='c012'>A special carriage and two of the finest horses in -Angora had been requisitioned for the occasion; and -though the colonel was prevented, at the last moment, -from being with us, we made up four guns, and every -man had two rows of cartridges round his waist.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I had visions of our coming Sunday lunch; but, alas! -it was bitterly cold (in spite of rugs and shawls) on -these lovely and picturesque roads, white with frost; -and when we had waited a whole afternoon for the -shooters to shoot, someone at last bagged a magpie.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Passing a flock of geese, by which the old woman -of a tiny roadside farm was standing sentinel, I asked -one of the party to hand me a gun with which to shoot -one of the geese by mistake. I remembered in -time, however, that the only time I had ever aimed -at a rabbit, I killed a fox; and I was afraid that by -aiming at the goose I should probably shoot the lady.</p> - -<p class='c012'>So they toiled on for another hour with no better -result, and we began to hesitate about facing the colonel -and the director of the Ottoman Bank, where we had all -been invited to Sunday lunch. But on the way back we -were lucky enough to buy a fine, plump hare from two -peasant women we passed on the road; and the colonel -<span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>was boldly informed that it had fallen to Osman Noury. -“Madame Noury must cook him,” cried the colonel, -with a laugh that struck one as rather suspicious. -The colonel supplied champagne; Mme. Noury superintended -the hare and the pilaw; Boghetti brought -some fruit; Oeillet was responsible for the cigarettes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When behold, to the manifest discomfort of -Osman Noury, the colonel began asking awkward -questions about the “where’s and when’s.” “Be careful,” -I said, “the colonel is going to wire to his Government -about it.” When the laughter subsided, Osman -Noury blushingly explained that it had cost him two -Turkish pounds! I am sure neither the fact nor the -confession diminished our enjoyment of the merry feast.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have been very ill to-day, on the point of slipping -out of this world altogether. Not realising the danger -of close proximity to a mangal, I carried the precious -warmth into my bedroom, to feast on its exquisite -purple flames, which I just remember comparing to a -sunset. Fortunately, my faithful maid was in the room -when I lost consciousness, and I was carried out of the -poisonous air.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The colonel told me afterwards that before they -knew whether I should recover, he was possessed of a -horrible panic that he could never persuade his Government -I had died by accident.... Everyone will -say “the Turks poisoned you and the Frenchman let -them do it.” Well, I am still here, and the papers -have lost an excellent opportunity for lying copy. -M. Louis Steeg declares: “You surely will never die!”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The Pasha has graciously lent me his car for a visit -to Halidé Hanoum. It is a pretty little machine, -lined with blue velvet, which hops and bumps and -plunges along the roads like a kangaroo, swimming -across the river for more miles of twisting acrobatics. -I have always admired the carriage-drivers: before (or -rather behind) M. Kemal’s chauffeur I am dumb. -But, apparently, the cars “don’t mind”!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was imprudent enough to dismiss my conductor -<span class='pageno' id='Page_233'>233</span>at the nearest point to my host’s house, which even -he could not reach, and walked on to find the servants -had all disappeared, no doubt to the Mosque, and the -family were not at home! Being in Turkey I did -not hesitate to step down the road and knock at the -first door I came to, which was of plain deal, with the -usual huge lock (quite a foot long) and picturesque -knocker. A thin-faced woman appeared to welcome -me, and, without thinking, I fell back on my stock -greeting: “Mustapha Kemal Pasha, <i>Chok Guzel</i>!” -Accepting my muddy boots without demur, she -smilingly led me into her little two-roomed cabin: -on one side, the sleeping-room with its bed and well-cushioned -divan; on the other, her simple kitchen. -When she had tucked me up on the Divan, and given me -coffee and cigarettes, I did my best at conversation, -and by friendly signs tried to convey my gratitude. -“England is a big country ... M. Kemal’s victory -splendid ... cold weather outside,” my eyes and -hands said.</p> - -<p class='c012'>If she did not exactly understand what was in my -mind, she was polite enough to seem thoroughly interested. -I sat on till I could hear the servants arriving -at my host’s house, and with another supply of coffee, -she smiled me farewell, without the slightest appearance -of having resented my lengthy intrusion. They -are hospitable in Anatolia!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Another person I met with pleasure at the Assembly -was Hamdoullah Soubhi Bey. He is a distinguished -writer and orator of about thirty-five, whose white hair -offers a striking contrast to the alert youthfulness of -his face and expression. He has spoken “cultured” -French from the cradle; as, indeed, so many women -of the upper classes know that language far better -than Turkish. Zeyneb uses French in writing to -Halidé Hanoum, being, no doubt, unwilling to trust -her Turkish to so brilliant a writer.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It must have been Hamdoullah Soubhi whom I -heard, about ten years ago, plead so eloquently for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_234'>234</span>the abolition of the harem. When he showed us what -polygamy so often <i>meant</i> to the children, few of his -large audience could keep back their tears. The -colonel had introduced him, and said that he had been -the Minister of Education. “Why did he give -up the post?” I asked. “Ah, <i>pourquoi</i>!” shrugged -my friend, “it is a delight to talk with him. You, -who love French, will indeed enjoy the exquisite -language in which he clothes his thoughtful opinions. -Such men are an ornament to any parliament.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Hamdoullah Soubhi does not seem to feel so leniently -towards the Greeks as M. Kemal, and is less optimistic -about their return. It had been supposed, he told -me, that the marked differences between the two -races would balance each other; but it has not proved -so, and, in his judgment, they would always clash. -“Our Anatolians, so long neglected and forgotten, -are as they were three thousand years ago: honourable, -firmly resisting all tempest, faithful to the traditions -of their race, loyal to their chosen leader in the -hour of danger.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told him it should be a lesson for us in Europe, -to find a map of Asia Minor in all the humble homes; -while my host, the Minister of Public Works, always -brings <i>his</i> map on to our breakfast table, to familiarise -me with all the geography of these wide lands. We -are now studying Diarbékir and Kurdistan, not only -the wonderful old towns, but the character of their -cultured inhabitants. No wonder our Lausanne delegates -have so affronted Turkey by their lofty allusions -to the “illiterate” Kurd!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“How can our younger civilisations, however advanced -in science and commerce, ever have been so -self-satisfied as to suppose that we could keep down such -people for ever?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Our forty millions,” answered Hamdoullah -Soubhi, “will not be so easily suppressed. Remember, -our language is spoken beyond the borders of China, -and our civilisation can be traced all over the world.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I afterwards met Hamdoullah Soubhi, in -a little restaurant adjoining the Assembly buildings, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_235'>235</span>he was accompanied by a brother of the late Djémal -Pasha. I was glad of the opportunity to tell him -that, “whatever the political mistakes of their former -leader, I felt that the Turks had lost a great man.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The proprietor of this little restaurant is also a -professor. He determined that, while cooks, and -indeed all servants, were almost impossible to obtain, -the deputies should suffer no inconvenience. Now -they all either drop in at the professor’s, or ask him -to send them a snack to one of the rooms of the -Assembly. The ready courtesy with which he offered -to contrive a meal <i>à l’anglaise</i>, for my special benefit, -clearly showed he is always willing to do his best.</p> - -<p class='c012'>H. Soubhi Bey’s tastes are very simple, and he -detests show or bluff. “We discard superstitions, -alike in life and religion,” he said; “only the solid -foundations of truth can resist the storm. Our -National Pact, like our faith, is solid, positive, and -true.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>On one occasion I met Haïdar Bey, <i>député</i> for -Vannes, the colonel’s adviser on rugs and carpets, -whom he calls “the old brigand.” He told me, -however, “the fellow was not dangerous;” and -I surprised him by declaring that I had fallen in -love, at the age of eight, with Hadji Stavros, Edmund -About’s “King of the Mountains,” and, in consequence, -was perfectly at home with brigands.</p> - -<p class='c012'>HAÏDAR Bey does not carry the chaplet, which so -many Orientals are always counting, in order to check -the temptation to smoke, but I noticed he was -clenching a piece of wax. “He’s training his muscles,” -laughed the colonel. “Brigands, you know, have to -keep themselves very fit!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He seemed to me, as a matter of fact, to have -suffered more, physically, from the allied occupation -than anyone else I met, except Essad Pasha, the -celebrated oculist, obviously destined for constant pain -to the end of his days.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_236'>236</span>HAÏDAR Bey had sworn he would never again speak -to an Englishman on account of our officers’ treatment -of his mother. I could only assure him, with all the -earnestness at my command, that the people of -England abominated every form of personal cruelty; -and that one day, when the facts were known, we -should officially apologise, as I now privately expressed -my horror and shame.</p> - -<p class='c012'>His response was characteristic of these generous -people! He arranged for me a really charming little -supper-party; making graceful allusions to England -as she was before the war; and as, since my visit, he -had decided to think of her ... “I will only remember -the occupation as a hideous nightmare!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I could sincerely say I had enjoyed every minute of -the evening, from the Circassian chicken specially -prepared for me, to the Oriental music and Abdul -Hamid’s own cigarettes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our host himself had graciously come for us an -hour before the appointed time; a prudent gallantry, -to ensure the arrival of his guests in the crowded -quarter described as “near the pump, which is perhaps -near the Mosque”! with neither street-name nor -number to assist the traveller.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Aided by sticks and lanterns, we accordingly -prepared to face the dangers of the way. It was impossible -to hear oneself speak in the biting wind; and -our host, with his “lantern under thy feet,” as the -Bible calls it, was fully occupied in guiding us away -from big stones and wide holes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We were glad to reach his dimly-lighted room; -over-heated, indeed, to Western ideas; and sink into -the cushioned divans covered with his priceless rugs. -The <i>mézé</i>, or meal of hors d’œuvres, was served the -moment we arrived, with dainty dishes of fruit, cheese -and olives.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The choirmaster of the Christian church had been -specially invited to bring his band for our benefit. -I found that, like so many of the Christians, even -the priests, he had scarcely any Armenian. Indeed, -they all wear the fez and speak of “our” -<span class='pageno' id='Page_237'>237</span>country, “our” victories, and “our” ghazi Pasha! -It was in a Christian church that I once heard the -following prayer: “May the all powerful God bless -our beloved nation Turkey, and all the heroic sons and -children of this nation to which we are so proud to -belong. Give grace and health to our commander, -Mustapha Kemal Pasha the ghazi, and to all the -Ministers of the National Assembly, and all those who -have sacrificed their life and comfort for our welfare.” -The priest assured me that no one had “asked” him -to offer up any such prayer, which was the spontaneous -expression of his own feelings!</p> - -<p class='c012'>All Armenians consider themselves “at home” in -Turkey; as the Welsh are “at home” in England. -About the same proportion know the language, the -national songs, history and literature, as we find in -Wales. The priest preaches in Turkish because he -desires the congregation to understand him; though, -if he knows Armenian, part of the Mass is said -in that language, for the sake of sentiment.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In these days, of course, the races have been -provoked to mutual jealousies and suspicions. I -overheard greetings that certainly <i>sounded</i> like the -happy reunion of long-parted friends, and were, indeed, -accompanied by all the outward and visible signs -of affection, which the dignity of the European -must always suppress.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We have missed you,” cried the affectionate -Turk; “life is not what it used to be. None of us can -take your place.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>And the Armenian replied at once: “It was cruel -to turn us against you. Those horrible English—that -Lloyd George!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>They spoke of the happy days when the Armenians -took care of Turkish children, whose parents had gone -on pilgrimage to Mecca. Now they have come back -the best of friends; and I believe, as they do, that -not even the English could ever separate them again.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One of the guests, the Italian director of the Ottoman -Bank, was very anxious that Colonel Mougin -and I should not miss these signs of a permanent -<span class='pageno' id='Page_238'>238</span>reconciliation. “You see,” he said, “it is only the -Turks themselves who can protect ‘minorities.’ It is -easy enough for any Armenian to get on with them. -The supposed antipathies are made in the States.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Governor-General of the Ottoman Bank, M. -Louis Steeg, also begged me to do all in my power -to stop this useless propaganda. The Armenians are -begging to be ‘left alone.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is manifest again that Mustapha Kemal includes -Christian minorities in the “New Turkey” he has -determined to save from veils, harems, and lattices; -the crumbling remains of Byzantium, anti-progressive -Hodjas, and the Byzantian Patriarch imposed on -Constantinople!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Certainly these Christian musicians gave us -only Turkish music and songs: love songs, military -airs, the Moslem ‘Hymn of Independence’ (known to -every child in the land), Anatolian folk-songs, and, -most interesting and incomprehensible of all, the weird, -piping solo that accompanies the dancing dervishes, -a combination of sacred mystery, sentiment and -melancholy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Unfortunately, no European can expect to enter -fully into Turkish music without a good deal of study.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>And yet, deeply as I feel the charm of Eastern landscapes, -the glorious sunsets or brilliant sunshine -revealing white minarets against the black cypress, -I still hold dearer memories of the old talks with my -Turkish sister, beside the roseate mangal, as she -revealed to me the fascinating mysteries of the life -of the sons and daughters of her land.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is the same to-day in the more strenuous and, -in some respects, more Western atmosphere of the -proud National Assembly. Even if I have done but -little to convey the admiration their splendid resistance -demands, which I so strongly feel, the effort to -understand has brought me the greatest pleasure. And -whether or not I have earned, or merited, the joy, none -can take it from me.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_239'>239</span> - <h2 id='ch27' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXVII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY—A VISIT TO THE CATHOLICS IN ANGORA</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>There</span> is so often compensation for disappointment. -Had I been able to reach Angora through Constantinople, -had I not been held up six weeks by strikes on -sea, I should have missed the chance of another visit -to Rome—above all, of having an audience with Pope -Pius XI.</p> -<p class='c012'>His Holiness could not know, for I did not myself -then imagine, the precious gift he thus entrusted to -me for his children in Anatolia. He certainly would -not feel the time wasted, could I convey to him the -heartfelt joy and reverence with which they listened -for my answers to their eager questions. “What is -he like, our Holy Father? Is it true that he always -prays for us?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>No one could fail, indeed, to have been impressed -by the deep sincerity with which the Pope takes -man’s sorrows to heart; the great anxiety that overwhelms -him, not only for his own flock but for all -humanity; and his great desire for peace.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Towards Turkey, I believe the Christian world will -follow the lead of Great Britain; as in their attitude -towards the Christian Powers, Islam will follow the -lead of Turkey. Now that Mustapha Kemal Pasha -has raised Turkey again to be the true head of Islam, -should not our whole policy in the East rest on her -friendship?</p> - -<p class='c012'>As in politics, so in religion. Dare we listen to the -appeal of American Nonconformity for a “Holy War” -<i>against</i> Islam; dare we follow the Anglican into -<span class='pageno' id='Page_240'>240</span>union with the Greek Church <i>against</i> the followers of -the Prophet? Only the Roman Church has lived in -perfect harmony in Turkey? The only Christians to -praise and honour the Moslem faith!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>One must come from an audience in the Vatican -with sealed lips.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But when humanity is waiting for understanding -and kindness; when, above all, the East is asking: -“Can we trust the West?” it is impossible to remain -altogether silent concerning the Holy Father of Rome.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Turkey has been insulted, despised, and deceived -by Christendom. Despite her utmost tolerance to -every faith, she has been betrayed by those to whom -she was most indulgent. Missionaries she welcomed -in Christ’s name, as messengers of His love to all men, -have used their sacred privileges to organise enemy -propaganda.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Therefore will I bear witness: there is a father’s -heart on Peter’s throne; a father anxious for all his -children, suffering; and <i>with no crusade to urge against -Islam</i>, also sons of God and brothers of Christ! -For him there is one “enemy,” and only one: the -“Materialism” that is poisoning our civilisations; -nourishing our pride, our jealousy, and our hate; -threatening our faith.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Is this “indiscretion”? Yet how is it possible to -express one’s personal impressions of an audience with -the Sovereign Pontif! All the literatures of the -world have dedicated immortal pages to the Father -of Christendom. They have paid homage to him, -if not as spiritual head, at least as a great and -picturesque personality; and, above all, a personality -backed by the traditions of ages.</p> - -<div id='i240' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i240.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>BURNT QUARTER IN THE FRENCH PART OF SMYRNA NEAR THE QUAY.<br />p. 48</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Dumas, in his beautifully written interview with -Pope Gregory XVI., describes his terror at the thought -of meeting the Pope. To-day such a sentiment is no -longer possible. Awe and reverence have taken the -place of terror. Excommunication has lost all the -meaning it had in the Middle Ages. And yet, deprived -<span class='pageno' id='Page_241'>241</span>as he is of all temporal power, the Pope is expected, -by virtue of the age of his sacred office, to express himself -in all moments of crisis. As spiritual head of the -Christian Church, he is to-day in a difficult position. -The Greeks and Armenians, it is true, are not for the -most part his children. They belong, however, to -branches of the Christian Church; and no Pope, however -much the poor misguided peoples are responsible -for their own misfortunes, can look with indifference -on what is happening to them, and may still happen.</p> - -<div id='i240a' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i240a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A LUNCHEON PARTY AT THE OTTOMAN BANK, ANGORA.<br /><br /><span class='sc'>Boghetti.</span><br />(Director of the Ottoman Bank.)<br /><br /><span class='sc'>Oeillet.</span><br />(Secretary to Colonel Mougin.)<br /><br /><span class='sc'>Miss Grace Ellison.</span><br /><br /><span class='sc'>HAÏDAR Bey.</span><br />(Deputé for Vannes.)<br /><br /><span class='sc'>Colonel Mougin.</span><br />p. 240</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>On the other hand, no Pope can forget what the -Vatican owes to Turkey. In that hospitable land, the -Roman Catholic orders, expelled from France, sought -refuge. Throughout the length and breadth of the -country, Catholic missions thrive and prosper. Though -they rarely, if ever, make converts, they give care in -sickness; comforts, education, and instruction to the -Turks. And who is responsible for the cultural French -language spoken in the Near East, if not the Jesuit -Fathers?</p> - -<p class='c012'>This extraordinary religious tolerance on the part -of the Turks has always been incomprehensible. -Disraeli’s protection of the Turk was born of his gratitude -for the religious tolerance they extended to the -Jew. Jews, who could escape massacre in Russia, -found then, as they find now, a comfortable home -where they are free to practice their religion and make -money. What more can they want?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Naturally, then, seeing what the Vatican owes to -Turkey, and Turkey to the Vatican, the Pope is interested -in the personality of M. Kemal Pasha, and -proved very willing to hear what a Western woman, -with opportunities in the past of studying Turkish -home life, knows of this great Nationalist hero.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Anyone who has seen the ceremonies at the Vatican -must be impressed by their great spectacular beauty. -The Church of Rome has given the world some of its -finest art, literature and music. And at the Vatican -itself, wherever the eye wanders, there is beauty—beauty -of architecture, beauty of colouring. On the -one side there is the gaudy costume of the Swiss Guard, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_242'>242</span>with their scarlet and gold, in striking contrast to the -grey courtyard and the black dresses or mantillas of -the lady visitors; there are the frescoes, the statues: -and over all a veil of mystery and the charm of history.</p> - -<p class='c012'>From the time one’s carriage rumbles over the -stones of the great unshaded courtyard to the side -where the Pope’s apartments are situated, one has the -sensation of walking over a book of sacred history. -It is true all Rome is history. The Vatican, however, -is the history of the Catholic Church from the -beginning, and as you go up the marble steps you instinctively -lower your voice, walking slowly and -silently. For have not all the greatest figures in the -world’s history passed up that staircase?</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is everywhere a delightful odour of books; -but where are the books? Uniformed diplomatists, -high officials, generals, cardinals in their scarlet splendour, -priests in black and scarlet and purple, attendants -in red damask court breeches, walk noiselessly in and -out. All the chairs seem so big, and the consoles and -vases so huge and so valuable, that a portrait of the -kindly face of Pope Pius X. is a welcome change. -Seeing me looking at the peaceful, saintly face, my -neighbour whispers: “C’était un vrai père.” One -notices also a beautiful bust of Pope Benedict XV. -Why do the photographers never do justice to his fine -intelligent face?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Monsignor X. has come to fetch me. He, too, is -keenly interested in Angora. Now I am taken to the -Throne Room; the Holy Father comes forward to -greet me. He stands whilst talking to me, with one -hand resting on a large piece of antique furniture. -Beginning to speak in English, he continues in French.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Pope speaks most modern languages; and, -as he receives every day, keeps himself in personal -touch not only with the best-known Catholics, but with -all the important personalities who come to Rome. He -has travelled extensively, is well-read in many languages, -and has written books of the highest value. As a -younger man, Monsignor Ceretti—the Paris Papal -Nonce—has told us, the Pope used often to read and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_243'>243</span>write the whole night through, and he has an inexhaustible -fund of most valuable information. And -what does he not know of Islam? He has studied it -in all its phases; hence his great tolerance.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Clad in a white cloth soutane, with a wide white -cape over his broad shoulders, a white cloth sash -hanging in wide ends on the left side, white buttons -and a white calotte and red shoes, the Holy Father -stands out as a contrast in simplicity to his surroundings. -His thick gold chain and handsomely chiselled -cross, with its large diamonds, are his only ornaments -besides the pastoral ring.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Of medium height and pale, his powerful face is -young for his years, and his large wide forehead quite -unlined. His features are clear cut; his eyes seem small, -perhaps because of the thick glass of the spectacles, -which he frequently adjusts.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One is particularly struck, however, by the power -of his features and his frank expression. It is a -face of much intelligence, but, above all, one of the -greatest human kindness. This can be seen more from -the mouth than the eyes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told the Pope why I was going to Angora, where, -as the people knew me and trusted me, I hoped, at any -rate, to achieve some good. An expression of infinite -sadness passed over his face as I continued: “All -this awful bloodshed, this useless suffering. Surely -these things should never have come upon us.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>There was, indeed, little his Holiness could say. -He knows how useless it is now, to question on whose -shoulders History will place the responsibility for the -diplomatic bungling in the Near East.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It should be remembered, however, that he had -written to M. Kemal, begging him to do all in his -power to prevent bloodshed as the army advanced. -The Pasha’s reply was dignified, wise, and sympathetic: -surely a key to his fine personality, as all can recognise -it to-day.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I said to the Pope: “Mustapha Kemal appears -to me a man of great understanding, who would be -capable of a <i>beau geste</i> towards Christianity. His -<span class='pageno' id='Page_244'>244</span>speeches are democratic, full of kindness and consideration -for his people, revealing a real desire and -determination to lead them along the road to that -prosperity which should be the heritage of a people -dowered with a soil so fertile in precious minerals.... -Yet, of course, other men in other countries have made -great speeches and done nothing!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In paying tribute to the personality of M. Kemal -Pasha, so far as I could then judge it, I said that he -seemed to me a man of moderation, who would always -use his great influence to prevent bloodshed. Yet -one trembles at the thought of the moment when the -army goes into Constantinople! The slightest friction, -through no fault of the great general himself, -might have appalling results. Yet I have sufficient -confidence in the Turks to know they would not -willingly harm one religious order. It could only -be by accident ... yet it would be terrible, and must -not happen....</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Nothing will happen, your Holiness,” I went on, -“unless the Greeks begin it. In their tragic and -hasty exodus from Thrace were they not reminded, -in terror of what might be, of their own conduct in -Asia Minor?” Yet the Pope’s face was very anxious. -There was great pathos in his voice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In what almost tragic situations a Pope thus often -finds himself! The spiritual father of both sides; -nevertheless neutral, or, if not neutral, criticised by -both ... always expected to dispense generosity and -mercy—and receiving none; no wonder the strain of -the war killed both Benedict XV. and Pius X.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In Angora I told M. Kemal Pasha of the Pope’s -great desire for peace. What was to be the Pasha’s -<i>beau geste</i> towards Christianity. I suggested he might, -as S. Sophia was a Christian Church, give it back to the -Pope, as spiritual head of Christendom.</p> - -<p class='c012'>M. Kemal Pasha replied: “Had there been only -one branch of the Christian Church, although S. -Sophia has now become part of our Moslem traditions, -it might have been possible. As the Christian Church -is so much divided, it is impossible. We should only -<span class='pageno' id='Page_245'>245</span>excite the Russians, the Greeks, and the Anglicans, -to come and fight each other on our soil for S. Sophia; -and the <i>beau geste</i> you suggest for peace would lead -to eternal conflict and strife. Nevertheless, we are so -anxious to do all in our power to honour Christianity -in the eyes of the world that if, by our retaining S. -Sophia as a mosque, we are really giving offence to -the Catholic Church, we would either turn it into a -museum, or close it forever. None must ever be able -to say that we have intentionally injured the Christian -Church.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I complimented the Pasha on his fine sentiments -toward the Christian religion.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is natural,” he replied. “I am only carrying on -our traditional tolerance to all religions. The Roman -Catholics and all Christians, as well as the Jews, have -always had full religious freedom in our country.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As to the <i>beau geste</i>, what can I say? You are free -to go anywhere you like in Anatolia; talk to the -Greeks, talk to the Armenians. If there is any cause -of complaint, we will see that it is removed -at once. We want the Christians to be happy -in our country. We have given them full religious -liberty, and equal rights with Moslems: can we do -more? I feel sure that, in spite of all the devastation -and atrocities committed by the Greeks in our -country, in a very short time they will be back -amongst us: the great friends they were before the -Powers interfered.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Rauf Bey, the Prime Minister, echoed the sentiments -of the Pasha. “Tell the Pope,” he said, “to -rest assured we are doing all in our power to make his -people happy and contented. Can there be a finer -<i>beau geste</i> than this?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As the Pasha had suggested, I went everywhere, -saw and questioned everyone. The Greek prisoners -were bitter in their criticism of England, who -betrayed them and left them unaided to fight the -Turkish army. Surely the least intelligent of our -military attachés would have seen the cruelty of such -a move.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_246'>246</span>Contrary to what most people suppose, there is a -Christian colony left in Angora. It is mostly Armenian, -though there are still many Greeks. The community -nevertheless calls itself, and always gives as its legal -nationality, “Catholic”; a delicate way of avoiding -difficult questions.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mass is said on Sunday three times, partly in Armenian, -which many of the Armenians do not understand, -and the rest in Turkish. All the Armenians -wear fezes, and prayers are said for Turkey. The -little chapel is primitive and picturesque; never, -however, has one heard such strange <i>Ave Marias</i> or -<i>Glorias</i> or <i>Agnus Deis</i> as those sung in their Turkish -setting.</p> - -<p class='c012'>During my Christmas visit to the head of the -Armenian Church at Angora, I asked him what message -he wished me to give the Pope on his behalf. I told -him the Pope was anxious about the Christians; and -he might tell me, in confidence, if he was not happy -in Turkey.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For my visit the Armenian orphans had put their -home in <i>festere altere</i>. They had made cakes and -sweets to be served with coffee and tea.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then it was that I had the pleasure of speaking -to them about the wonderful personality of the Pope -as I had seen him in Rome; and of telling them that, -above all, their Father in Christ stood for loyalty to -their State. The Turks had never hampered their -loyalty to their Church, and the Pope would never -hamper the loyalty and obedience they owed to the -Sovereign State.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then the dusky-skinned orphans, boys and girls -together, were marched before me, each taking my -hand, kissing it and raising it to their forehead.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As I said afterwards to Colonel Mougin: “I wish -it were possible to supplement the meagre funds with -which Father Babadjanian is maintaining this little -colony of poor children.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Tell the Holy Father,” said Father Babadjanian, -“that we are <i>perfectly</i> happy with the Turks. They are -trying to send us away from Angora for economical -<span class='pageno' id='Page_247'>247</span>reasons, but we do not want to go. We have been -told by the Grand National Assembly that we shall -have exactly the same rights as the Moslems—no -more, no less. What more can we expect or -desire?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Tell His Holiness to inform Europe and America,” -he concluded, “that it is useless to try and protect -<i>disloyal</i> Christian minorities here. It cannot be done -by any Church, or any League of Nations. We know -very well, and events have proved it, that so long as -we remain <i>loyal</i> to the Turkish Government, all will -be well. All the trouble that has come to us has -arisen from the disloyalty and political intrigues of -the Orthodox Armenians and Greeks, and, above -all, from outside propaganda. So much has been -said and written about an “Armenian Home”; let -America offer Armenians that national home. Let -the Powers, since it is they who are the cause of all -the trouble, only recognise that they must provide -homes elsewhere for every Christian who wants to go, -or else leave us alone....</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If you only knew how we tremble before this -useless propaganda, how we pray to be delivered from -our European friends. <i>Turkey is our home.</i> We have -to live with the Turks on friendly terms; and will -gladly do so, if <i>only</i> this political propaganda can -cease.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Colonel Mougin, who accompanied me on this -visit, can vouch for these statements, which he considered -so important that he communicated them to -his Government.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have delivered the message of M. Kemal Pasha -and Father Babadjanian to the Holy Father. He -will receive, also, fuller impressions of my interesting -trip through Anatolia; and fuller descriptions of -this country and those people who have made so -splendid a fight for freedom and independence.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Throughout the length and breadth of Anatolia, -prayers for peace have been echoed and re-echoed. -There must be peace; but not at the expense of the -sovereign rights of the people.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_248'>248</span>It is a comfort to the Turks, nevertheless, to know -that the head of the Catholic Church stretches out -the hand of friendship towards them, and prays for -their peace and prosperity through the brotherhood -of Moslems and Christians in the East.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_249'>249</span> - <h2 id='ch28' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXVIII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>THREE DIPLOMATS AT ROME—THE GUARDIANSHIP OF THE HOLY TOMB</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>In</span> Rome I met three diplomats; as different from each -other as night from day, as the Pope of Rome from the -Khalif of Islam—a false comparison often made in -New Turkey to-day.</p> -<p class='c012'>We have described the Pope; the sanctity of his -office, the odour of piety in which he dwells. The Pope -is not of the world; he is above the world-elected, -not born. The Khalif, like an hereditary king, inherits -his position as Head of Islam; which means -that he owes his position to the hazard of fortune, not -to personality or virtue.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have met all the Khalifs from Abdul Hamid to -his present descendant, who was, when I saw him, the -third in succession. He appeared to me a kindly, -cultured gentleman and a talented artist. My host -at that time, Prince Youssouff Zeddine, heir to the -then Sultan, had frequently invited me to the Palace, -and always spoke highly of his younger brother. The -Prince had a touching affection for England, and, with -Djémal Pasha (then Minister of Marine) for interpreter, -would gladly listen to endless stories of olden and -modern days. Passing from Alfred and the cakes; -through Drake, Gordon, and Princess Mary; to his -favourite tale of the Suffragettes chained to the grille -at Westminster, I sought to inspire this unhappy man -with memories of the greatness of the England he -loved so well.</p> - -<p class='c012'>If, by any chance, I varied a phrase or omitted the -slightest detail, he would beg Djémal “to respectfully -<span class='pageno' id='Page_250'>250</span>remind Mademoiselle that she is going too fast!” -It is difficult, indeed, to believe that the man who -laughed so heartily at the words “Votes for Women,” -could have ended his own existence. He dared to -say to the Turkish Parliament, “On no account must -we be on the wrong side with England”; and the next -day he was dead!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Not only in Turkey, but throughout Islam, which -includes India, there is no institution so sacred as the -Khalifate, yet the term is meaningless if the Khalif -loses Arabia. Next in sanctity to Mecca, in Moslem -eyes, comes Jerusalem, for all the prophets of that -Holy City are sacred to Islam, though her prophets -have no honour in Judea or among Christians. Should -we not tremble when Christian Powers attempt to -tamper with lands of pilgrimage like Hedjaz, and when -they trample upon the traditions of the Khalifate?</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At Rome, Osman Nyzami Pasha represented Constantinople, -while Djelaleddine Arif Bey was Minister -for Angora. The former did not, indeed, go into exile -with the Nationalists; but his varied experience as -soldier, statesman, and ambassador has given him a -rare knowledge of Europe that makes him popular -and useful in diplomacy. Alas, now, however, his -career ends.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Ten years ago in Constantinople he greeted me -with, “Dear child, what for did you do this dreadful -thing,” as I was returning from the Persian Mouharrem, -the anniversary of the assassination of Hussein, -son of the Prophet. The Spanish Minister, who was -with us, had fainted outright, although familiar with -bull-fights. His wife, Mme. M., a Swede, had more -courage than either of us; but I almost fell into the -Ambassador’s arms as I reached my hotel.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In a ring formed round a centre of blazing torches, -white-robed men wail and mourn for the holy martyr, -slashing their heads with swords. They dip their -hands in the flowing blood, and sprinkle it all over -their faces. I was haunted for weeks by the ghastly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_251'>251</span>spectacle, which I shall never be able to forget, of -those stained robes and faces, amidst the wild fanatical -shrieks. When, as often happens, a man thus kills himself -in the fury of exaltation, he is acclaimed a martyr, -and his family are pensioned for life.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I asked why such awful ceremonies were -permitted, I was reminded of Turkey’s “non-interference” -with every creed and all the “pieties” of all -peoples.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At Rome, I lodged in a quiet convent, which closed -at 7.30. But the Ambassador called at eight and was -followed by a succession of Turkish friends, until -Mihrinour and her husband arrived at 10.30. I -apologised next morning to the Mother Superior for -such unseemly interruptions of her ordered life; -explaining, in a fifteen minutes’ lecture, how anxious -a Turk would always feel for the comfort of any friend. -“You are perfectly right,” she said, “I know them -well. I lived eighteen years on the shores of the -Bosphorus!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Djelaleddine Arif Bey gave me a right royal welcome -to Rome, and allowed me to trouble him with all -sorts of questions. In Constantinople he had been -what we call Dean of the Faculty of Law, and one day, -on an official visit to the Sultan, wearing a frock-coat -and patent-leather shoes, <i>he had just time to escape to -Angora</i>, dressed as he was. His knowledge of both the -Cheriat and European Laws was invaluable to the -Assembly, and it is a delight to hear from his own lips -that Turkey is going to establish her <i>own</i> Constitution, -not a poor imitation of ours.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Our justice has been paralysed by capitulations,” -he said; and told me of an Italian murderer who had -found sanctuary in his Consulate, because the Kavass -would not give him up. “We have been bound and -fettered all these years, but it cannot go on.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>His admirable organisation of Justice in Angora -developed from one colleague to twenty-five assistants, -for work which occupied three hundred men in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_252'>252</span>Constantinople! Yet he very soon established complete -order, though after the peace he hopes for still greater -perfection.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He was interested in the personality of Cardinal -Gasparri, whom I had met for the first time. I found -him a great contrast to Cardinal Merry de Val, with -whom I had long discussions about Islam ten years ago.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Shrewdest of diplomats, keenest of observers, is -there one move of the world’s political chess-board -he has not penetrated? Seeing, knowing, judging -everything, could he make a mistake? In a State -Church he would be a grave danger; but the days of -State Churches are almost no more. As the Turkish -minister remarked: “A Church needs more than anything -a level-headed diplomatist having no connection -with politics.” The Cardinal, then, is far too clever -a man to undervalue Islam.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He has studied the greatest living authorities, in -translations when he cannot read the originals, upon -all the wonderful books of the East, and listens to men -learned in the Koran. In theology, as in politics, -none could catch him napping. One may, perhaps, -guess something of his opinions by listening carefully -to such questions as he may put to you; for he tells -you nothing and seems to gather up all you know -almost before you are conscious of having spoken. I -<i>do</i> remember, however, that he asked me what the -Turks proposed to do about the Holy Tomb?</p> - -<p class='c012'>To this I answered that Djelaleddini Arif Bey had -said: “There could be no decision taken about Palestine -without consulting the Turks. This astute lawyer -had always bidden the Catholic authorities to remember -that Christ, according to the Koran, is of miraculous -birth, is one of Islam’s most venerated prophets. -For the Moslem to blaspheme the Virgin Mary would -be a heinous offence. To hand over the guardianship -of the Holy Tomb to the Israelites is, therefore, a -direct insult to Islam.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Fethi Bey also said: “We have all our work cut -out looking after our own frontiers, yet we have always -faithfully guarded the tomb of Christ, our prophet. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_253'>253</span>What can we think, if the Powers now prefer to entrust -it to the Jews who crucified Him and still deny Him?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Even as Mecca is to the Moslem, should Calvary be -to us. Shall we who are called Christians suffer the -Tomb we do not guard ourselves, to be taken from -those who have faith in Christ?</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_254'>254</span> - <h2 id='ch29' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXIX</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>EN ROUTE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE—A NIGHT AT BILIDJIK UNDER THE FROST-LADEN SKIES</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>One</span> does not expect comfort in an unheated railway -carriage, with snow a foot and a half deep, and the -temperature 15° below zero. As we left Angora we -also noticed that one of the carriage windows was -missing, and a courteous official kept back the train -to insert one from another compartment! We were -grateful, indeed, for even then the cold was hard to -bear.</p> -<p class='c012'>The little engine is now ploughing its way <i>downhill</i> -but still slowly, since halts are needed to renew its -strength for the double task of “traction” and sweeping -away the snow.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We are well supplied with food for a five-days’ -journey, so that over a cheerful meal we can almost -forget to feel frozen, and soon find we have covered -the thirty-five hours to Eski-Chéir.</p> - -<p class='c012'>From Eski-Chéir to Kada-Keuy, where the lines -have been cut, is a short distance; but, mercifully, it is -not so cold as in the mountains. From there we travel -in a yaili (native carriage) which has evidently seen -better days and, let us hope, better springs. They -have been removed altogether from one side, and we -should have been easier without the worn remnants -on the other! As there are no seats, one -has to be propped up by any available rugs or -cushions, unless you prefer lying down at full length. -But the little cart is lined with red-cotton brocade, -while green curtains, looking-glasses, and tassels complete -the “decoration”! It must be delightful to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_255'>255</span>saunter along on a summer’s day; and draw your -curtains for a night in the open; but even the straw, -the mattress, and many rugs cannot transform the -yaili to a <i>train de luxe</i> in winter.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To catch “the express” at Bilidjik we have to -drive in two and a half hours a distance that requires a -much longer time. So, with good horses and a -fearless driver, we rattle away, up hill and down, over -bumps and stones. The luggage is thrown out, my -thermos is shaken to pieces, and we are flung violently -against the roof! Bruised and bleeding, we hold on -in grim silence; since time, too, flies.</p> - -<div id='i255' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i255.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>The Yaili, or Native Carriage, with Drawn Curtains.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>Even at this pace we cannot escape the oppression -of desolation. On every side lie smashed engines, -burnt railway carriages, and villages in cinders. -As dusk falls, only a fatalist, in a country of fatalists, -could venture the rush down sharp descents cut -through a precipice of 800 feet!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Fate, indeed, preserved us, only to prove its irony; -for when we reached the once prosperous Bilidjik, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_256'>256</span>still beautiful in its ruins, we hear that a landslip on -the line has made traffic impossible for some days to -come. In Anatolia, one must be ready to do as the -Anatolians; and we are faced with the prospect of a -night under the frost-laden skies. There is not even -a chair to be found, though “kindness” quickly -contrives a seat for me from a pile of logs. Here I -can rest awhile; and by brisk walks at short intervals -probably keep up my circulation until the -welcome dawn....</p> - -<p class='c012'>Someone, however, suggested that we should beg -for shelter in one of the luggage-vans already crowded -with men and women—naturally, in separate compartments. -One thought of the poor villagers we had seen -huddled together in their holes on the mountains; -and realised that even the floor of a luggage-van may -be a “luxury.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here turban-headed men are sitting on their -prayer-carpets, some sound asleep in that uncomfortable -attitude, others eating, and others praying, -but none uttering a word of complaint.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Looking around for a seat amidst the wilderness -of food and bed-clothes, I suddenly hear a few cheery -words in English, to my amazement and delight. -Here is one of the American Relief Workers, prepared -and thankful to spend the night among the strange -crowd. With the resourcefulness of his nation, he -is provided with a large hat-box that will serve as seat -or table, and contains both food and bed-clothes. From -his “seat,” therefore, he quickly extracts some sandwiches -of most delicious pea-nut butter, making a cup -of tea for me on his “table.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>All eyes are drawn to the neat dispatch of these -preparations and the marvellous ingenuity of his -packing. From that veritable box of Pandora came -solid alcohol, tins, kettles, goblets and card-board -plates. The food itself was kept in clean, little linen -bags.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was, indeed, a strange lesson in efficiency and -practical hygiene, delivered in the wilderness! His -unpractical, Eastern neighbour is meanwhile struggling -<span class='pageno' id='Page_257'>257</span>with a bit of old newspaper, from which a most unappetising -collection of honey and eggs and nuts and -bread are tumbling in dirty confusion, as the broken -eggs and printer’s ink trickle in a discoloured stream -on the floor.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If only you would send out a good company of -missionaries in hygiene,” I cried out, in my excitement, -“the other gospels would follow as a matter of -course. The world will be a far better place -when America comes to the East and preaches the -need for exterminating the house-fly and other insects -with the fine zeal she is now devoting to the extermination -of the Turk.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>My new friend—I had almost said compatriot—laughs -good-naturedly at my enthusiasm; and in a -few moments, despite my sympathy with Anatolia, -I am again compelled to recognise that I am, after all, -a woman of the West.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When someone brought in a blazing mangal and -carefully closed every door of the crowded luggage-van, -the American soon found a polite excuse to jump -out. Five minutes later I, too, ventured to open the -door and call out to ask him for a helping hand. -Both of us knew it was far better for us to die of cold -in the fresh air than to choke in those thick charcoal -fumes. I will hold a light while he digs out a hole, -for sleep on the bosom of Mother Earth.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But now two charming Turkish boys, the sons of -Moueddine Pasha, in our party, are telling me that they -are terribly distressed at my discomfort. It is in vain for -me to assure them that no one could blame <i>them</i>. Somehow, -they find the <i>Commandant de la place</i>; and, at -his direction, gallantly tramp back for two and a half -hours, to bring me a mattress from the Governor’s -house which, placed on three standard oil-boxes, forms -my bed. Meanwhile, the Commandant, who is familiar -with Europe and speaks fluent German, earnestly begs -me to excuse this terrible reception. “It is the -work of Lloyd George,” he adds, as for every disaster -in Anatolia the same cause is proclaimed. Ask a -peasant who killed his sons, and he will reply without -<span class='pageno' id='Page_258'>258</span>hesitation, “Lloyd George.” Our late Premier has -now become super-bogeyman of the Near East for -Moslems and Christians alike.</p> - -<p class='c012'>All through the night strains break on my ears of the -Anatolian folk-songs; the expression of that strangely -resigned happiness of a long-suffering people which we of -the West must half-envy and, at the same time, half-despise. -Average human nature is only too apt to -neglect those who never complain; and if others -appeal for them, to say—as even America has said—“It -is too big a problem for us to tackle.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>With so much goodwill around me, the night passed -far more quickly than even my natural optimism -could have foretold. And before stepping into the -yaili that will carry us on to Broussa, I try to express -to the kindly peasants a little of the gratitude and -admiration in my heart.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We do not lack anything,” they assure me. -“All we want is to save our Fatherland. It would be -wrong of us to use up the wood and material for building -houses that may be required in the war.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then, for farewell, the old Bible-greeting of -“God be with you.”... “And bring us peace,” is -all I can find voice to reply.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_259'>259</span> - <h2 id='ch30' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXX</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>FROM BILIDJIK TO BROUSSA BY YAILI—AFTER THE DAY’S ROUGHENING EXPERIENCES ONE CAN SLEEP WHATEVER THE ACCOMMODATION.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Our</span> adieux to Bilidjik did not delay us long. As -there were no trains to Constantinople, we had to take -the road to Broussa and Moudania, whence the -boat runs to Constantinople. I now joined the -American in one carriage, the two Turkish boys following -in a second. Although <i>yaili</i> means “a carriage -with springs,” neither of ours justified their name, for -they had none. An American, however, is nothing if -not resourceful, and my companion performed -wonders with straw, rugs, and boxes.</p> -<p class='c012'>It was about nine o’clock when we started along -the muddy roadway, in charge of one of the most -happy-go-lucky coachmen it has ever been my good -fortune to employ. He had ten animals of his own -before the war, and, now the Greeks have taken them -all, he is making a fresh start with the best he can -hire from others. He <i>said</i> that these were steady and -sound, but I could not believe we should have known -the difference, over these ploughed fields on the edge -of the mountains, so caked with mud that our carriages -frequently stuck fast. It was a wearisome business -enough, the constant alighting to be dug out for -fresh starts; but I was altogether beyond sharing the -American’s alarm lest we should sink for ever in a bog! -I was far more concerned about the difficulty of getting -really comfortable, among my disordered rugs and -shawls.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As our coachman provides us with many evidences -<span class='pageno' id='Page_260'>260</span>of Greek barbarity from the ruins of every village we -pass, my companion’s indignation shows rapid signs -of approach to fever heat. “We’ve not played -‘straight,’” he cried, “I am not pro-Greek nor pro-Turk, -and, at the moment, I haven’t much use for -Christians; but I don’t see myself keeping quiet -about all this. You and I have to get quick and -publish a little truth for a change.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told him that I had been trying in vain to get -something done, or at least known, about Angora; -but that if ever an article of mine included a word -about Greek atrocities, the editorial scissors promptly -got busy, and the truth remained untold.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Obviously the American belonged to that fine type, -which abounds in young countries, who put all their -dollars into the acquisition of knowledge, and who -delight in using the knowledge they have acquired, -backed by their own wealth, in the service of mankind. -His keen inquiries about <i>my</i> impressions of the sad -people he had come so far to understand, were proof -enough that no kind of vanity, or pursuit of self-glorification, -lay behind his insatiable curiosity.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was much interested to find that he agreed with -me in having noticed how strongly the “personal” -element enters into all one’s relations with any Turk. -If they do not like one, you might as well stay in England. -If your personality attracts them, it will -make no difference where you happen to have been born.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They are called ignorant and fanatical; but I -find that even the most illiterate understand enough -of our civilisation to make any honest Englishwoman -heartily ashamed of our ignorance and insularity.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Remember,” he said, “how little we Americans -really know of you, or you of us.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I <i>do</i> remember how I shocked one of your compatriots -by confessing that I had the most shaky idea -of the occasion for your ‘Thanksgiving,’ but he afterwards -admitted he had imagined till quite recently, -that ‘Boxing Day’ was the annual event of our -national sport!”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_261'>261</span>There was little to break the monotony of our -lonely journey except a large number of caravans, -and, every now and again, one of those tiny little donkeys, -used to lead a troop of from nine to fifteen camels!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Now you see,” said the ‘man from the States,’ -“why we sometimes speak of a ‘conceited ass!’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Only,” I answered, “this little fellow has something -to be conceited about. He has the right to -say ‘look at me,’ as he trots along with the double row -of turquoise beads round his neck, leading these great -big chaps behind him. When he chooses to push -ahead, they must hurry after him; and when he condescends -to turn round and ‘look over’ them, for all -the world as an officer might ‘eye’ his men, you -could not discover a more striking example of personality -in the East. I declare I have fallen in love with -that charming ass!”</p> - -<div id='i261' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i261.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>“He has the right to say, ‘Look at me.’”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>“Very well,” he replied with a laugh, “the next -time anyone calls me an ‘ass,’ I shall be proud to accept -the compliment.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_262'>262</span>“But, seriously,” I replied, “asses are seldom as -black as they’re painted. After all, to be stubborn -is one form of personality. I remember staying in a -French chateau during the war, where one donkey -had taken over the duties and responsibilities of the -eighteen horses, which had been requisitioned by the -State. On Sundays, tied up to a tree in the churchyard, -while the family was inside the church, he always -waited to hear the Sanctus bell, and then brayed his -loudest. He must take part in the Mass!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>One rarely sees any driver astride his camel. -He may be “considering his beast,” but, on the other -hand, he may not. For of every variety of sickness -(of the sea, the home, or love itself) is not camel-sickness -the worst?</p> - -<p class='c012'>My companion agreed that he had not found the -Turks either stubborn or unreasonable. “Everyone -I met in Anatolia made an honest attempt to understand -my point of view, even when I endeavoured to -explain or at least to excuse, English policy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Turks are ‘stubborn,’ if you insist on the phrase, -about the future of their country; but they have given -a great deal of thought to the subject, and they speak -from experience that has been bought at a big price. -I have never encountered that uncomfortable type of -mind we know so well among ourselves, and in a more -aggressive, if less dangerous, form in the States, which -nothing will move from its ‘pet’ hatred or chosen -love, <i>in spite of</i> great culture and general understanding.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I will not quote President Wilson, because we have -an even better illustration in the late Lord Bryce. Few -men could claim wider culture, few have been so -universally acknowledged a great statesman, yet the -Turk to him was no better than a red rag to a bull! -And when he said that these people were ‘unspeakable,’ -the world believed it.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I once attended a debate on whether ‘the Turks -should, or should not, be forced to abandon Constantinople.’ -A judge from Constantinople had been -called to open the discussion, who said, among other -<span class='pageno' id='Page_263'>263</span>things, that ‘this eternal reference to India as an -excuse for backing Turkey was mere nonsense; <i>because -Lord Bryce had said that India was indifferent to Turkey’s -fate</i>!’</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Seyed Hossain, a member of the Khaliphat Delegation, -then rose to contradict this assertion. He -said that he had come all the way from India with the -Khaliphat Delegation, for the express purpose of protesting -against the attitude of the Allies towards <i>his</i> -Khaliph (the Sultan of Turkey).”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“‘My dear Sir,’ answered the judge, ‘I have -absolutely full confidence in any statement made by -Lord Bryce.’</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The poor Indian was staggered for a moment, -but soon found courage to reply: ‘Has a man like -Lord Bryce the <i>right</i> to defy commonsense, statistics, -and accurate, official information. My presence here -is a clear proof that my statement is correct.’</p> - -<p class='c012'>“‘Your presence means nothing to me,’ was the -‘polite’ retort, which concluded the debate!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There is, of course, a very stupid kind of loyalty -in such an attitude, but it tempts one to almost despair -of ever hoping to fight against its criminal injustice -to Turkey.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is a heavy responsibility for great men if -they give rein to an obstinate and unreasonable prejudice. -It is so hard to resist those we respect.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>“What do you really think about the Americans -in Turkey? I am so anxious to do my utmost for -these poor people, asked my friend.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I, who love them, will honestly say I fear that -the influence of your people is very dangerous. For -<i>one</i> who does good, as I am sure you have done, there -are fifty who only make mischief, even undoing much -of what you have achieved.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The supreme merit of the Nationalist movement -comes from the fact that Turks are beginning to be -<i>themselves</i>. All must be well in the end if they are -content to ‘swallow’ Europe in small doses. Already -we have with us that dangerous anomaly the European -<span class='pageno' id='Page_264'>264</span>Turk. The big capitals kill his sincerity and capture -his affections by their vices. His mysterious dark eyes -(an everyday commonplace in his own country) too -often prove ‘false lights’ leading him on to the rocks. -It is a test of character to ask the European Turk if -he is not ‘longing to get back to Turkey?’ When I -put the question to Hussein Raghib, he said ‘if I must -stay here for my country, I will stay, but I am never -happy for long so far away from Angora and all it -means to me.’ Certainly a healthy view!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is surely better to let the Turks work out their -own salvation, only helping when they ask for help; -and even then we should be careful to give them what -they desire and not what <i>we</i> may think best for them. -It is really cruel to tamper with other people’s ideas, -particularly their religion, and it does no good in -Turkey. The gospel of Islam has made them the -fine race they will always remain at heart.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You can do good in practical, material affairs -and for the diminution of physical suffering. I wish -every American would preach the gospel of the Rockefeller -Institute all over the world: the creed of the -open window, a crusade against vermin and microbes. -That would bring us a ‘new’ world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I would like to see a closer union between the -Red Cross and the Red Crescent. The Turks have -not your organising ability; but they have many -sound ideas already operating in their hospitals.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We must be quite sure that our civilisation is -perfect before we force it on others. It is ‘mine,’ -and I owe much to it; but I, for one, can see much -to criticise.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I, too, believe we have no right to offer more -than material assistance, and such an example as our -own efforts, towards the best we know, may afford.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is a great deal, if given in the right spirit. My -own idea of ‘service’ is to try and understand the -East, to prevent such terrible blunders as our ignorance -of them have brought about, which may even involve -us in the horrors of another war.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Why should we ask Orientals to accept our -<span class='pageno' id='Page_265'>265</span>civilisation and ‘look at life’ through our eyes. It is -no wiser or juster than asking a woman to see nothing -except through a man’s eyes; and to work in his way. -She cannot do that, and has suffered in the attempt. -Your work is even a great peril. It is only too probable -that you will be ‘starting’ them on the wrong -road, and you must soon leave them to find their -own way.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If I am wrong, at least I speak in all sincerity; -and I have studied the question for many years. As -I see it, our Western civilisations have much to learn -from the East in pity and humanity.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Osman Nyzami Pasha said to me once, in Rome, -‘you must not judge a nation by its Government -but by the gods it creates for itself in its own image.’ -The ancient Greeks peopled Olympus with gods of -revolting immorality; but you in Oxford forget that -chapter of the story. The God of the North——”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He paused, and I took up the challenge.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The cold, harsh, and unforgiving Deity; the -bogeyman of my childhood, always ready with some -awful punishment for the least shortcoming.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Why are our Puritan countries, whose God is -love, so unjust to women, keeping them down under -cruel and illogical laws. It is idle for men to say that -no laws can diminish the deep respect they accord -to women, which, in fact, is seldom shown to any of -us except their wives, certainly not to woman as a -woman.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I certainly hold no brief for ‘irregularity,’ but -there is something wrong with a conception of God -which has produced the immeasurable gulf between -the married and the unmarried mother. Humanity -is not of our making; the ‘imperfect’ man has no -right to demand ‘perfection’ from all women. Has he -not made and tolerated <i>War</i> that has overthrown -every standard of morality, changed all our ‘values,’ -shattered every ideal, leaving religion nowhere, and -two million women without a mate?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Such is the civilisation that dares to point a -finger of scorn at the unmarried mother; and, by -<span class='pageno' id='Page_266'>266</span>dismissing her, characterless and unpensioned, from -every respectable avenue of support, dares to brand -a child as unwanted, and push the innocent young -life into secret and shameful surroundings. Those -who should help, with all the power of their sheltered -purity, prefer to keep themselves ‘too respectable for -any knowledge of these uncomfortable problems,’ -since they are good and faithful servants of One who -said, ‘Let him who is without sin amongst you cast the -first stone!’</p> - -<p class='c012'>“All maternity is sacred to the Turk, and every -child enjoys full legal status. The super-cowardice -of declaring a child as born of ‘parents unknown’ -(as you may in France) could never be allowed. If -marriage be not the high sacrament it is, theoretically, -regarded in Europe, the life of <i>every babe</i> -whom God sends us is held to be a sacred charge. Do -our missionaries in Turkey really preach the Gospel of -Christ?”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>“Do you approve, or admire, the resignation of -the East, the Turk’s ideal of being content with so -little?” asked the energetic American.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We are <i>both</i> wrong. Their resignation too often -leaves life stagnant, our race for dollars drenches the -world in blood.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Is it not horrible for us to have to confess that -all this appalling Battle of the Cross against the -Crescent, sprang out of greed for oil.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“One cannot realise what the world would be like -were all nations governed by your and my ideals. -Would there ever have been a British Empire? We -can scarcely justify, on grounds of high morality, the -conquest of America; and, surely, the States could -by such ruling have, indeed, become ‘God’s own -country.’”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>When the road became rather more European, -our Turkish boy friends sought to relieve the monotony -<span class='pageno' id='Page_267'>267</span>by a furious race between the two yailis, and we -were tossed about beyond all possibility of further -talk. When, however, the boys had won the first -heat, I begged to be excused from trying to secure -our revenge, as the carriages did not seem solid -enough for racing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Then behold, at the word, one of our wheels flew -off! And, though we were mercifully taking a saunter -“between rounds” at the moment, we had to follow -our belongings into the mud and do what we could -to help the wheelwright.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The American, I found, had been teaching himself -the language, and claims to have read <i>Nasreddin Hodja</i> -in the original. Now he hastened to improve the -occasion by the most voluble congratulations to our -unmoved drivers. “This wheel evidently knew how -to choose the ‘psychological moment’ for its detachment,” -he exclaimed. “On the edge of a mountain, -we should all have been pitched into the depths; -crossing a river, our lady passenger, who cannot swim, -would have been drowned; during the race, we could -not have avoided a fatal collision. If it had to happen, -it could not have happened more wisely!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The job is finished at last; maybe hastened by -such lively chatter; but I confess we did not feel -really secure. In fact, the prudent suggestion that -one of us should hold the reins while our driver “kept -an eye on” the wheel was soon justified by a second -flying away of that “offending member.” It was this -time discovered that something must be found to -enlarge the circumference of the axle to keep it fixed, -and I immediately offered my pocket-handkerchief. -Our driver, however, would not hear of “depriving me” -and so I begged the American “not to disturb him, -but to see how he would contrive.” Though obviously -puzzled for a few minutes, he soon justified my confidence -by cutting off a good handful of hair from -the horse’s mane, and thus “fixing” the wheel once -more.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That’s all very ingenious,” laughed my companion, -“but ‘hair’ won’t ‘wear.’”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_268'>268</span>“Then he’ll find something just as original,” was -my triumphant retort.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Nevertheless it was growing dark, and there were -rivers ahead that would seem to demand rather better -security than we possessed. My anxieties, however, -were soon scattered to the four winds by the most -astonishing tirade of unjust contempt for all things -English, in which my companion now proceeded to -indulge. My anger lasted just long enough for us -to cross the river; for once we were over, the good -man explained that he’d done it to make me -furious, the only way he knew to cure a brave woman’s -fit of nerves.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At last the welcome smoke, rising from peat -cottage-fires, brings the comforting knowledge that -we have almost reached Enichéir; and we are soon -happily searching for some sort of a resting place that -may call itself “an inn.” We are offered the choice -of four beds in a room with five others already occupied, -or an empty, partially wrecked, sleeping apartment -containing two!—one for me, one for the boys, and -the American on the floor.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We naturally accept the latter, and immediately -get busy about some cooking and a wash. After -the day’s roughening experiences one can sleep -whatever the details of the accommodation!</p> - -<p class='c012'>At about 9.30 that evening we are awakened -by the police, who, however, explain that I am -only “wanted” by the Commandant, who has called -to wish me <i>bon voyage</i>, and inquire if there is anything -he can do for my comfort or to speed me on the way.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It is not now the Pasha and four wives,” said I, -as our visitor soon discreetly left us, “but the Englishwoman -and three husbands!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Next morning after a pleasant hour of mutual -assistance in heating the water and holding a -looking-glass for each other, with, as I told them, -“the most courtly assistants any woman could desire,” -the American goes out in order to fix that wheel -<span class='pageno' id='Page_269'>269</span>to his own satisfaction and, by inference, to mine. -We have two more days in the yailis and cannot afford -to lose time.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our next halting-place is still more primitive, with -its four houses, the tiny inn, a large stable, and a -poultry yard. Here, however, the Mayor is ready to -join us, in his long Persian shawl, robe, and turban, his -documents wrapped in a case of flannel. Like the driver, -I notice that, as he steps into his seat, he is careful -to take off his muddy shoes. Indeed, the godly cleanliness -of Islam, if it does not quite follow our Western -traditions, is a very real and honest ideal. The body, -as the cheik had assured me, is clean if the clothes -be dirty; and I am beginning to think that those -“little visitors” in the hotel beds must really be -“suffered in kindness.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I well remember the shock with which one of my -friends met the suggestion that he might drown some -of the kittens who were arriving, just then, with most -alarming rapidity. He said, “the Koran would not -permit it!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Another weary day, amidst so much mud and so -many ruins, naturally stirs my companion to thoughts -of what might be done by a few dollars.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I do not mind your having any concessions,” I -said, “if you will keep your hands off the architecture. -I was hearing the other day about a scheme for -building a railway in co-operation with the Turks: -one rail to be laid by them and the other by the Americans! -I should feel far more safe in a yaili with <i>one</i> -wheel!</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is a delightful pastime to work out big schemes -for smashing up Europe, Asia, and America; in order -to rebuild the world tastefully and according to -hygiene, like a couple of happy children with their -bricks; but we have at last reached the conclusion -of the whole matter. East is East and West is West. -If they attempt to “take turns” building railways, -the trains will certainly “go off the line.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have never been able to understand why anyone -should be so afraid of the Cheriat Laws. With all -<span class='pageno' id='Page_270'>270</span>respect for my present company, I say, what I afterwards -repeated to Sir William Tyrell, “I would rather -trust myself in a Turkish court than appeal to -American justice.” In the first case, you may -find yourself in the hands of a kind-hearted judge; -the second adventure depends entirely on cash. -English justice has no equal; but our laws -for women are themselves unjust, and the best -workman can do little with poor material. Trials, -like marriages in foreign countries, should be illegal -unless the Consul, or someone equally expert, is -present to “watch for” his fellow-countryman. What -crimes have not we committed in the name of -Justice through ignorance of foreign customs!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Those who face the choice of trusting themselves -to the Cheriat or keeping away from Turkey, may find -that these laws are not so terrible after all,” -answered the American.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Zeyneb once said that the great merit of Moslem -“Commandments” was the absence of mystery. -“The i’s are all carefully dotted. We are not told, for -instance, that we should give to the poor; we -<i>are</i> told the precise percentage of income that must -be allotted to charity. Though our laws come from -the great Prophet of Allah they are not ecclesiastical.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In Moslem countries the Head of the State must be -elected by the people; he has full executive and -legislative power, but he is also personally responsible -to the nation. We cannot deny that Mustapha Kemal -Pasha has rigidly adhered to this theory of government -in his daily practice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>This is the true Democracy. Born without any -advantages of caste or family, Fethi Bey laughs at -all my allusions to “old ancestors.” The attitude does -seem peculiar to Western minds, and may often lead -to confusion between us, but it is not without charm.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“How do these very intelligent, modern Turks -attempt to reconcile their zeal for liberal reform with -their firm loyalty to Islam? How do they account -for the decline in prestige and power that none -can deny has been their fate?”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_271'>271</span>“My friends at the Assembly attribute the temporary -fall of Turkey to the strong, non-progressive, -influence of the hodjas, who have converted themselves -into a powerful priestly class, as forbidden -by the Prophet. Others attribute it to ignorance of -economics; others to Western remoulding of Islam, -and foreign oppression; others still, to a perpetual -state of war.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What is the Pasha’s personal opinion?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No man,” he says, “can live without complete -liberty and full freedom; nor can any nation. So long -as the interests of my own country permit it, I will -be the friend of all nations and all humanity; but -when any nation begins to tamper with our freedom and -our independence, as Germany did in the war, then -we can only resist and fight to the bitter end. I -sought to discover my people’s will, and I found they -were ready for any sacrifice to defend their country. -I had faith in the sons of Turkey, and my faith has -justified itself to the utmost.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There has, indeed, been no finer movement -among the ‘despised and rejected’ since the world -began.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>“Here comes my friend the sun,” I exclaimed; -“a snow-capped Olympus, the cypress beneath the -azure! Why is our driver using his whip with such -unusual success, just when we want to linger and -admire—— Do you know, my friend, should I paint -this soil, in all its varied tones from ruby to terra-cotta, -all men would cry out, ‘that woman always -sees her Turkey <i>en coleur de rose</i>!’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I will bear witness,” laughed my friend.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But, seriously,” I went on, “does it not mean -iron; rich veins of iron that it would <i>pay</i> someone -to produce?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In this district of lonely marshland, one can at -least rejoice in the cold for one reason. It has driven -away the flies and mosquitoes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Why does not your country find the capital -<span class='pageno' id='Page_272'>272</span>and send over our unemployed ex-service men to help -the Turks drain and cultivate these waste lands?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I afterwards spoke of the possibility at -Lausanne, I was told that “something might be done!”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Now we have reached Broussa, and our young -Turks hurry forward to announce our arrival to the -Governor.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is more trying than ever to lack springs, as -we jolt over the loose cobbles of these primitive and -neglected town streets. But I could cheerfully have -put up with far greater discomfort to reach, at last, -the “luxurious” (in comparison) Hotel Brotte, its -glowing fire, can after can of water, clean sheets, and -the blessed chance of changing one’s clothes and really -<i>brushing</i> one’s hair.</p> - -<div id='i272' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i272.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>THE TOMB OF THE SULTAN OSMAN AT BROUSSA.<br />p. 272</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>This is <i>not</i> the Savoy, but, surely, something better!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_273'>273</span> - <h2 id='ch31' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXXI</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>A FEW DAYS IN BROUSSA—THE TRUE ISLAM ATMOSPHERE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>The</span> Governor who, once more, “comes from Malta,” -has detailed a police officer to look after me during -the five-days’ visit unexpectedly imposed upon us, -since there is no boat leaving before then. My journey -from Angora to Constantinople will, therefore, occupy -ten days instead of the regulation two or three.</p> -<p class='c012'>We start out the first thing in the morning and do -not return till dusk. I have never visited so many -mosques, and their colouring seems even more exquisite -than I have found it elsewhere.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Naturally, however, we first went to pay our respects -to the Governor, who promised to give me certain -special information next day. His konak, however, -happened to catch fire soon after we left, and in -less than an hour it was reduced to cinders. There was, -fortunately, little wind, though, as we watched the -flames from our hotel, one could feel no security that -it might not spread all over the town and render us, -too, homeless.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was, as it happens, a brigand, descending by -chance from the mountains, who had saved the whole -town from destruction when the Greeks left it in flames, -after demolishing their church and setting fire to their -houses. Fifteen surrounding villages were, actually, -burnt to the ground. The French proprietress of -the hotel told me the town was not ravaged by -Ottoman Greeks, but by the Hellenes. Their own -Greeks cried bitterly at being compelled to leave, -but were terrified into flight, many of them dying at -Moudania or on the road.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_274'>274</span>I heard an amusing story from my Dutch friend -in Smyrna which illustrates in what “great respect” -the Turkish army has always been held by Greeks. -One of their officers, reconnoitring on the hillside, -was seen to run back to his men, shouting: “They -are coming! They are coming! There are fezes -everywhere!” He had caught sight of a field of poppies!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Madame herself is “desolated” by the departure of -her Greek servants, and puts no real reliance on the Jews -by whom she has been obliged to replace them. Although -getting on in years, she is eighty-six, she never dare go -to bed before any of her guests, lest someone should -ring and obtain no answer. I enjoyed examining, in -her visiting book, the signatures and humorous comments -of English prisoners, who were with her during -hostilities.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Everywhere the Jews are stirring themselves, in -and out of their quarters, eager to take on anything -abandoned by the Greeks, as shoemakers, -plumbers, tradesmen, and labourers of all kinds. Nowhere -else, I imagine, could one hear them boasting -“I am an Israelite.” Our guests include many Jews, -and they are quickly finding their way more than ever -into the good graces of the Turks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I hope they will soon organise the splendid “bathing” -one could enjoy at Broussa if only some comfortable -rest-place were set up for recovery from the bracing -effects of such strong waters. Surely the Baths of -Broussa might be promoted into a gold mine!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I wonder if the town is really as old as Angora? -In parts it is more dilapidated, as one can see from -walking about its deserted streets, so sorely in need of -repair, and glancing up at the broken windows on -every side. Nevertheless I, personally, delight in -the delicate charm of this famous Asiatic city, free -from a “Levantine” population and the relics of -Byzantium that rather spoil Constantinople.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The celebrated silk factories are not, of course, so -picturesque; and the depressing mixture of steam -<span class='pageno' id='Page_275'>275</span>heat, and smell is certainly calculated to make one -long for the very latest kind of progressive machinery -to replace such unhealthy “human” labour. Here, -again, we find Jews and the so-called “Catholics,” -have replaced the Greeks; and the proprietors (who -are so often Jews) only complain that there are -not more hands available.</p> - -<p class='c012'>This means, of course, not enough competition; -and wages have risen from thirty to sixty piastres a -day. For this reason they miss the Greeks and -Armenians, although the new men are equally good -workers.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We have also to employ Turkish women,” they -say.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Are they good?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No, very bad. They <i>can</i> work, but have never -done so, and have no experience. Yet we must pay -sixty piastres for their unskilled labour.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Then you are running the factories at a loss, -with these high wages?” I asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Oh, no! We ‘make up’ for that by paying the -peasants half their old price for the raw silk.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do they complain?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No. We tell them that times are bad; which -they understand, and accept.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is an excellent example of the ease with which -almost anyone can make his profit out of the Turk. -He is satisfied with so little, and seldom, or never, -protests. For years Greeks and Armenians have filled -their pockets at his expense. Now we have driven -them out of their homes and Jews are quickly filling -their place. No wonder they turn on their Christian -“protectors,” and resent our “interference.” To -them money is the breath of life, and money is more -easily made in Turkey than anywhere else in the world.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Whatever prosperity these districts have managed -to retain largely depends on the silk-making and the -tobacco factories. All the Europeans are, naturally, -against any attempts to abolish capitulations. “They -are not likely to leave us,” say the Turks, “where else -would they be granted ‘capitulations’?”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_276'>276</span>The bazaar at Broussa has lost none of its Eastern -charm, but prices have gone up by leaps and bounds -since I was here ten years ago. They will, probably, -soon rise still higher when hand-embroidery dies -out before the machine-made imitations.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Central Mosque has been rather disfigured by -the over-zealous multiplication of mural texts; but -the beautiful fountain preserves the most marked -characteristic of all mosques, on which their “appeal” -so largely depends. It also contains some very fine -specimens of the curious old clocks, which only show -Turkish hours.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In the courtyard there are more fountains and -many pigeons, and the public letter-writer. Just -now he is hard at work for a profitable customer who, -one might think, surely knew how to conduct his own -correspondence. From my experience as an amateur, -doing my best for the <i>Poilus</i>, I should never imagine -that letter-writing could be an easy profession.</p> - -<p class='c012'>How well I remember the poor boy (a particularly -serious “case”) who asked me to “tell Jeanne” that ... -“he was well and happy and enjoying himself. -But that some friends had written and told him she -had not been faithful, and ‘he didn’t care.’ All the -girls were running after him, and the grand ladies, -too. He hadn’t any time to think about <i>her</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He afterwards gave me careful instructions about -a P.S. “But I do think of her sometimes.” In -another few minutes it was, “I often think of her.” -And, finally, “you can tell her that I forgive her, and -love her as much as ever.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Every corner of Broussa reveals the true “Islam” -atmosphere; whether you look down on it from the -surrounding heights, or wander along its quaint streets -and alleys. Everywhere you see latticed windows, -mosques, and dervishes’ Tekké. It stands on a wide -stretch of marshland, seemingly going on for ever, with -its countless rows of skeleton-poplars, that stand out -in the blue-grey mist like ghostly sentinels.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_277'>277</span>I decided there could be no better opportunity to -indulge in an adventure I had often contemplated: -climb up the highest of all the minarets to reach “the -top of the top!” The narrow and winding staircase -was sadly in need of repair; but at the long last I -found myself on the tiny balcony from which the -muezzin daily summons “the faithful” to prayer.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do you think I might sing?” I asked. “It -would be interesting to know how far the voice carries -at this height.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As you please,” he answered; but as it was clear -that he was decidedly embarrassed, if not shocked, I -contented myself with quietly humming <i>Gloria in -Excelsis</i>. When I told him the words—“On earth -peace, to men of goodwill,” he answered, reverently, -“<i>Inch Allah</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You see,” I explained, “the muezzin calls the -faithful to prayer, I call them to peace.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>As, perhaps, I ought to have foreseen, it proved a -far more difficult business to get <i>down</i> those steps than -it had been to climb <i>up</i>. Somehow the walls seemed -closing in upon me, and the mere idea of starting upon -the descent brought on a fit of unmanageable giddiness. -My guide promptly offered to carry me, but I did not -believe it could be done; and, in any case, I should -not wish him to make the attempt. When I have -plucked up courage to trust my own feet, they are -constantly slipping over the worn stones, and often -we find three or four missing altogether; still it would -not be possible to jump.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I am only just in front of you,” said my guide, -“if you fall, you will fall on me.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I <i>ought</i> to have been thoroughly ashamed of myself, -but I could only say, “You must let me manage my -own way and slide down as best I can.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I am perfectly comfortable in an aeroplane at an -altitude of 10,000 feet; and to this day I have never -been able to understand why that minaret made me -so giddy.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_278'>278</span>We visited the tombs of Osman and many of the -other Sultans buried in Broussa, the ancient capital -of Turkey. The idea of the continual watching of -the tomb, and, indeed, the whole attitude of Islam -towards death, is full of beauty. One does not wish -to believe that the Greeks marched up to this Holy -Place with drawn swords, cursing the founder of the -Osman Dynasty.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We also drove to the famous Green Mosque, immortalised -by Pierre Loti. The actual colour of this fine -building is a most wonderful turquoise blue; but, -like those jewels, it may, indeed, one day grow green -with age. Here Pierre Loti used to write his books, reclining -on the magnificent carpets, of which the -quality and beauty have defied time itself. On one -side stands the large door (replacing the altar) of exquisitely -blended green porcelain and delicate gold -lettering; on the other, the cool and sparkling fountain. -All day long he worked in this hallowed atmosphere; -where the invisible mouths of the fountain send out a -gorgeous mass of rainbow-hued spray into the sun’s -white rays.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The guardian of the mosque, who used to serve -coffee and bring Loti’s narghili and arrange the -cushions, has been laid to rest near by; and now -Loti’s long life is drawing to its close. His best work -was done in the mosque at Broussa, as his countless -admirers should not forget—the shrine of one of -Turkey’s truest friends.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Here, in the East, all may enter God’s House; and -it is here that every day, all day long, you see (as, -indeed, you may in France) men and women of every -sort and condition, unburdening their hearts of -joys or sorrows, some carrying a homely parcel, a -loaf of bread, or their goods to market; others carrying -their little children. No doubt, the mosque—or -the church—offers warmth and shelter; but its quiet -solemnity must turn our thoughts from all the pettiness -of existence, the false pride, and the ugly sin. Nor do -those who are, as it were, so thoroughly “at home” in -God’s House, pray with any less earnestness or sincerity.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_279'>279</span>What a contrast to the cathedral at Geneva I -visited with a French ex-Ambassadress. We had to -send for the caretaker, who <i>unlocked</i> the door for us -and <i>locked it up again</i> as we left. Yet this was once a -church; holy men had dedicated their genius to make -it beautiful, because it was the House of God. It is -not God’s House now; only a building where men meet -and speak. “Have we, indeed, lost faith in anything,” -said my companion, as the door was closed behind us -“which of us would God Himself lock out? Are there -none left who would pray to Him? To what vain -and untrusting materialism will mankind yet lower -drift?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>One morning, unable to hold in the interest awakened -by a handsome, young Turkish woman with veiled -hair, who was sitting near me in the hotel, I, at last, -ventured to ask her if she would “excuse my staring,” -but “she so much reminds me” of an old friend, Dr. -Nihat Réchad.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He is my brother,” she replied in excellent -English, obviously delighted. It appears she had -lost touch with him for many years; only knowing -that he had been in prison and escaped to join Mustapha -Kemal. Now she hoped he must be coming into -his own again.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was glad to tell her how greatly we appreciated -Dr. Réchad in London.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our acquaintance brought me many new pleasures -in Broussa, in addition to her own delightful society -and her most friendly baby. She introduced me -to many of the nicest people in the hotel, and -arranged for us to visit the admirable hospitals of Dr. -Nazoum, head of the Army Medical Service, who was -a friend of her husband’s.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There were two Turkish gentlemen, however (General -Kemallidine Pasha and Nourredine Pasha), whom -I had been warned <i>not to see</i>, because they were “such -bears and hated England”; naturally, having thus had -my combative curiosity excited, I eagerly sought for -introductions to them. And I could not admit the -justice of their condemnation.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_280'>280</span>General Kemallidine Pasha is about thirty-five, -with an honest, open face and merry eyes, that strongly -reminded me of my brother; who—though not wounded -<i>eighteen times</i> like the Pasha—has been so frequently -sewn up as to present to the world, so I tell him, no -more than a figure of “threads and patches.” He -apologised for offering his left hand, obviously pleased -when I said, “it did not matter which of a hero’s -hands one is privileged to shake.” When I said that -I was sorry to hear he disliked my country, he gave -the only explanation I ever obtained from a Turk: -“It is because I once loved her so well!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>And for that I have only one answer, provided for -me by Mr. D——, who was in Constantinople all -through the war, and is convinced that the English -were, throughout, entirely misled by Greek and Armenian -dragomen. He, himself, would never trust these -men to translate any newspaper article for him. -“Their work may be, and frequently is, quite correct, -but they are clever enough to impart an entirely different -<i>meaning</i> from one language to the other; for -example, with the word “iltehoc,” how can that word -be translated with all its shades of meaning?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The most dangerous Englishmen,” he said, “were -irresponsible young colonels of twenty-five, the familiar -“temporary gentlemen,” whose sudden access to -power and responsibility has, on other occasions, led -Great Britain into adventures she cannot, afterwards, -disown. One must regret, but can scarcely in -fairness condemn, some of these brave boys from -the “edge of beyond” in Canada or Australia, who, -of course, are absolutely ignorant of Moslem customs, -and, by training, rather aggressively impatient of the -slow ways of old England herself.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There were Turks of a very inferior type to be -found to help them, as it would be dishonest to -deny. Those who made themselves <i>personna grata</i> to -the Allies, and enemies to the Nationalists, because -they would sink to any calumny or blackmail to -secure a “job,” or to keep one.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is, indeed, high testimony to the personality of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_281'>281</span>General Harington that, despite all the crimes committed -“in his name,” General Kemallidine, Ismet -Pasha and Nourredine Pasha are unanimous in their -high tribute.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Our empire is built on confidence in the “Man on -the Spot.” It has given us our unrivalled position -and a reputation for justice and generosity none can -rival. But, with the wrong men, it may have most -disastrous results; and, in Turkey, we still want to -know <i>who sent Turkey’s élite to Malta</i>?</p> - -<p class='c012'>Kemallidine Pasha gallantly summed up his acceptance -of my explanations.... “Now I see the -difference between an English lady and an English -‘temporary gentleman’!”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Dr. Nazoum has taken us to his office and showed -us his delightful sketches. He also removed some -ordinary picture postcards from their frame to show -us his wife’s picture hidden behind them.... “Twelve -years of a life that might have been given to one’s -family stolen from me for the rough and wandering -life of war. Only a photograph. That is my married -life.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>We also visited Nourredine Pasha’s father-in-law, -a dervish living in a Tekké, and revived all my enthusiasm -for their wonderful dancing to the weird -piping flute; although these dervishes are, I believe, -“contemplative.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was invited, when at the Assembly, by the Grand -Tchelebi to visit Konia, the chief city of the dancing -dervishes, and was much tempted to accept. I have -never fully <i>understood</i> the “mystic dancing,” derived, -as I was told, from our Psalmist’s command to “praise -the Lord with dance and song”; but no one could -fail to recognise the fascination of the weird rhythm -to which the outspread skirts move with a haunting -grace that is all their own; like gigantic mauve and -brown poppies over the polished oak floor.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_282'>282</span>We were unfortunately too late to see much of -Nourredine Pasha—the General was starting on his -Inspection. My guide had been too polite to tell -me my watch was slow. The General, however, found -time to entrust me with greetings to General -Harington, and to express more hopeful confidence in -the future relations of our two countries. I am certainly -glad I did not accept anyone else’s judgment of -this kind and distinguished man. He is, however, a -good ten years older than the other generals of the -Pasha’s new army whom I have met. I am now quite -accustomed to statesmen and generals of forty.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I think I must really have seen <i>everything</i> in Broussa, -including the burnt hamlets of the countryside. I -remember a school-house in this district, where the -master had been paid in corn, and in which four generations -of women, who gave us sweet goat’s milk, were -now all living in one room, tastefully arranged with -cushions. They had been swept off the face of the -earth with the village in which they dwelt, by the Greeks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But I must not forget the hospital, full of poor -women—victims of the Greeks. If there <i>were</i> such -sights at the French Front, I mercifully escaped -seeing them; and here, for the first time, I realised -what some of my sisters have had to endure since the -spirit of war has come over us. Greek hatchets had been -at work on Mme. Roufy Bey’s patients; and, whether -in face or hip, back or leg, too many of these terrible -wounds were festering, because it had been impossible -to attend to them in time.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I remember the mother who once answered her -little girl’s natural questions by telling her: “You -just grew on my heart.” “How lovely,” cried the -child, “is that why mothers all carry the babies so -near their hearts?” “Yes, it is where we keep them.” -Here was a poor Turkish mother whose little one had -been shot as it lay in her arms!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Through this devastated area, and having seen the -utter destitution of these people, I should have -expected to find far greater bitterness towards the -Greeks. But they are well treated in all the prison-camps, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_283'>283</span>and never handled with brutality as they work -on the roads. Yet they look rough and desperate, -showing none of the resignation with which the Turk -faces captivity, however ragged and tattered. These -Greeks even seem afraid if a Christian woman -speaks to them, although they own that their alarm -does not come from either a guilty conscience or from -terror of their enemies, but only reveals the broken -spirit of men betrayed and alone. I feel, however, -that to be always surrounded by the useless and horrible -devastation you have yourself inflicted, must unnerve -the most callous of human beings.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At about six o’clock on our last morning, an officer -arrives to conduct us to the station. The train starts -at 7-30, reaching Moudania at nine o’clock, where the -boat <i>may</i> leave at 9-30, or any time it likes. It is a -short and uneventful train journey, only relieved by a -brisk trade in tea at our two stopping-places.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We find a high wind and rough seas at Moudania, -and the boat has not yet <i>arrived</i>! There is plenty of -time to drive to a unit of headquarters, where the -officer’s mother (whom he had “smuggled” through -from Constantinople) gives me coffee and cigarettes -beside a welcome fire. We pass the historic house -in which Peace was signed; one of the many -examples in Anatolia of great achievements from -small beginnings.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Moudania is, on the whole, more depressing than -any of the miserable towns I have been over; and the -officer is, certainly, to be congratulated on having -secured the company of his mother.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was about half-past six in the evening when we -were summoned to embark; and there was no sign of the -“special cabin” that had been promised me in this -little cockle-shell of a boat, on which passengers, nevertheless, -are divided according to class. For my -part, I chose to travel second, as there was far -more air; and, as we opened the door, the “poultry -yard” gave us a hearty welcome! The women had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_284'>284</span>taken their chickens and rabbits into their berths; -the floor was strewn with corn and lettuce-leaves! As -I disliked sharing my bed with poultry, I should be -happier in the cold outside.</p> - -<p class='c012'>However, the first officer graciously gives up his -cabin. It is tiny, by no means immaculate, and papered -with cheerful postcards. But, in the place of honour, -Queen of Beauty among the ladies of the Levant, -hangs Gladys Cooper! I have never so much admired -that lovely actress as when now she seemed smiling -down at my mighty efforts to sleep in this tiniest of -bunks that had been built for someone of half my -length and width.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The little tub ultimately started at midnight, -dancing over the waves to Constantinople, where -Turkish passports are no protection, and I must now -learn to depend on my credentials from England.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>What is going to happen to me? Very possibly -my passport will be taken from me, or endorsed with -the grim words “not to return to England.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>My mission, indeed, was harmless, if not sanctioned. -I have, honestly, endeavoured to see that England may -be “a little better” understood by the Nationalists -in Anatolia. But in fighting Prussianism, we have -been slightly infected by that disease. It has -crept into our legislation and our administration. In -free England, Cæsar reigns. We can say, as the Turks -say, “We have <i>Prussia</i> to thank for our distress.”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_285'>285</span> - <h2 id='ch32' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXXII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>CONSTANTINOPLE NO LONGER THE CAPITAL—THE HEART AND SPIRIT OF TURKEY ARE IN ANGORA</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>As</span> our little cockle-shell reaches the busy quay at -Constantinople, the veiled women collect their animals -and carry them through the Custom house. I am the -only Britisher, yet the tall, well-built official rapidly -scans my passport and signs it without moving a -muscle, or showing the faintest surprise at my arrival -by <i>that boat</i>, not even opening his lips in reply to my -good-morning. Is this army etiquette? His kind -face has been taught not to unbend. It seems a foolish -way of encouraging foreigners to understand us. -“You are not English,” everyone declares, “dear -lady, you have too much heart to be English.”</p> -<p class='c012'>“We English have hearts,” is my reply, “but, for -some reason, we must pretend we have none.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Someone wearing a fez, perhaps a Moslem, insists -on taking me to the hotel, though I assure him that -I am quite capable of carrying my little bag, and a -few rugs over my arm. But he has seen Fethi -Bey’s letter, and nothing, clearly, will prevent him -from mounting beside the driver and burdening himself -with my belongings.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At Tokatlians’ Hotel, however, the Armenian porter -handed him the truly magnificent tip of two Turkish -pounds. He assured me that others pay double that -sum for the little trip from the boat to the hotel!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I see, at once, that there is a difference between -Angora and Constantinople. In Anatolia no one -would dream of thrusting his services upon his country’s -friend, or of accepting a two pound tip for so short a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_286'>286</span>ride. My Angora host’s servants could not even be -induced to accept a tip when I left. At Angora there -was none of the Levantine haggling over the price -of a cab. In Constantinople I decided always to -leave such matters to the porter, who was a kindly -man and did his best. Nevertheless, I should seriously -advise the Nationalists, when they are back here, to -fix a tariff for luggage and cabs, as the traveller is now -intolerably imposed on.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is compensation, of course, in the return to -Western comforts, if not luxuries; above all, of the -hot bath. I have already taken three; and they tell -me that, if I still don’t feel clean, it is only because the -water is always brown. One can, further, obtain the -services of a manicurist, a hairdresser, and a chiropodist, -all worthy men; and how I enjoy these hot-house -sitting-rooms, and sheets like satin on the bed! A -touch of fever and full permission to stay tired, are -quite enough to make me perfectly content with my -one “weary” hat—until my luggage condescends to -get <i>un</i>-lost.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>General Harington invited me to the Harbié -(British Headquarters); chiefly, no doubt, to hear -about the big men I have seen in Angora. There -are few Englishmen more keenly interested than he -in the personalities of the Nationalist leaders, particularly, -of course, “the Pasha.” He speaks affectionately -of “that nice, honest, fine soldier,” Ismet -Pasha; and describes Refet Pasha as “a very clever -man, one from whom I have never had an unkind -or discourteous word. We are the best of friends.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I asked him whether “he was <i>altogether</i> in sympathy -with the Turks.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You must remember,” he answered, “that I was -with General Wilson. No one could have had a finer -chief; and no man, I dare to say, could have followed -more closely in his chief’s footsteps than I.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Could not our troops be withdrawn, while such -an act might still seem <i>le beau geste</i>?”</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_287'>287</span>“We ought never to have been here,” he replied.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It hurts my national pride to see you fine men -doing police work.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I told him all I had learned about “the Pasha’s” -opinion of the situation, and asked him when he -intended to retire.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As soon as I feel really confident that Peace will -be ratified.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And Lausanne?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We shall have storms, but the result must be peace.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“When?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As soon as we dare hope....”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I congratulated him on the rôle he had played at -Moudania.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I am glad,” he said, “to have rendered service -to my country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Can you see any motive for this disastrous policy -in Constantinople?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I can only suppose that, for some reason, Mr. -Lloyd George simply refused to listen to the advice of -everyone who knew Turkey, in favour of friends -entirely ignorant of the whole subject. I am almost -disposed to think he did not even consult his own -Foreign Minister.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Why did you not go to Lausanne?” I asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Well, I was not invited. Lord Curzon and Ismet -Pasha appear to understand each other; and they -have clever experts at the Conference.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do you not feel, however, that a “prejudiced” -expert may do even more harm than the Premier’s -‘men,’ who knew nothing?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If you can prove they are prejudiced, yes.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“In my view, when the Turks mistrust them, it is -enough.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That, surely, is not for me to say.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I much fear it was “mistaken” modesty, which led -General Harington to think that his presence would -“make no difference” at Lausanne.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>On the other hand, his praise of Refet Pasha is well-deserved. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_288'>288</span>It would, indeed, require an exceedingly -smart diplomatist to get over a man no one can -bluff, for all his courtesy and kindness. The -“wonderful little general” is always busy, but never -<i>too</i> busy to see the friends of his country, who all -delight in his wit.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“There is nothing he would not dare,” said Colonel -Mougin. “I can imagine him smoking a cigarette on -the edge of Vesuvius! With a mere handful of men -he held his own against regiments of Allies all along -the line.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>When I first met Refet Pasha we spoke of Colonel -Mougin, with whom he had been photographed. I -told him that I had been fighting the colonel ever -since we met.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Fighting with that charming man?” he exclaimed.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The charm of friendship is to fight in peace,” I -replied, “or <i>Discuter sans disputer</i>, as the French say.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He laughed heartily, and then spoke with the -deepest respect of General Harington.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You have yourself given me an example,” said I. -“‘Love your enemies’, as it is written.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Colonel Mougin used to say that Refet Pasha had -the glorious spirit of a pioneer, and that his country -made good use of the quality. When he had cut his -way through the wilderness of Anatolia, they sent him -to take possession of Constantinople, though the -Allies were still there! At the same time, he was to -prepare the way for the axe that was once more -to chop with severity, speaking metaphorically, of -course, in the departure of the Sultan. When the -Government machine at Constantinople was running -smoothly, he was sent off to tackle Thrace!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Refet Pasha spoke warmly of Colonel and Mrs. -Samson, not forgetting their charming little girl.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He rendered great service to Turkey during the -Siege of Adrianople. He likes the Turks.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Like all British <i>gentlemen</i>,” I interposed, to his -amusement.</p> - -<div id='i288' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i288.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>GENERAL REFET PASHA AND COLONEL MOUGIN IN CONSTANTINOPLE.<br />p. 288</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>“Enemies, or not enemies,” he said, “in spite of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_289'>289</span>all the terrible things your compatriots have done, they -are fine and intelligent men. I ventured to say to them: -‘Perhaps, by bringing every man you can obtain from -the four corners of the earth, you may crush our forces, -but <i>never</i> our spirit. And remember, in crushing us -you will mutilate yourselves for ever!’ General -Harington knows that. He perfectly understands.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The General spoke of his twenty-eight years’ service: -the terrible hardship of these last years, when -they had to fight, not only the enemy without, but -those Turks who had thrown in their lot with the -Allies.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They say,” he went on, “soldiers love war. It -is not true. They hate it, because they know what -it means. Politicians want war and make war; we -only have to obey.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>He has a very high opinion of the present Khalif, -whom I myself met ten years ago, in the days of -Mahmoud II.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Everybody has the greatest respect for him,” he -went on, “and rightly; a fine gentleman and a great -artist.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“How does he like not being a Sultan?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He is the Khalif,” he replied. “In his place, -however, I might prefer the lesser honour and the -smaller responsibilities.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do you approve of my going to Lausanne?” I -asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“You have worked hard, and honestly, at studying -the country and striven very sincerely to understand -my people. It will be well for your delegates to be told -the truth. Nevertheless, Lord Curzon himself knows the -subject inside out. He has made up his mind, and -knows exactly what he intends to do. Above all, he -thoroughly understands what effect his policy will -produce.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I believe every word. This time the Prime Minister -will have nothing to say; Lord Curzon has <i>full powers</i>. -His responsibilities are heavy indeed. With the terrible -heritage of “ugly debts” incurred in the name of -England, of which he will personally be held guilty for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_290'>290</span>years to come! For him, the <i>right</i> way is not the -<i>easy</i> way.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>The British officials of Constantinople have been -most kind to me; as the only Englishwoman who -knows the story of Angora, and has been near to the -“heart” of the Turks; they hope I shall go to Lausanne.</p> - -<p class='c012'>But who will listen? From the beginning of time, -has an Englishman ever asked a woman for her opinion, -or listened to her if she expressed one, even after being -consulted! Often, of course, a personality like Lady -Hamilton’s, may exert great influence; but men do -not come to us for information or advice on policy -however much we may know, however deeply and -clearly we may think. I am still uncertain of how much -our women may ever be allowed to effect in politics and -diplomacy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I once heard a story from a witty Frenchman, -which “hits off” our <i>men</i> to a miracle! Their stubborn -tenacity, which has never <i>conceded</i> an inch to -women that was not dragged out of them by main -force! A celebrated French Minister once came to -London in hopes of securing a certain concession. -When he had spent an hour explaining his case, -our great personages briefly replied: “You might as well -have asked us for a part of Hyde Park!” He tried -again, for another hour, with precisely the same result. -His reasons, any mutual advantages that might, or -might not, accrue, were absolutely ignored. They -only answered, “You might as well have asked us for -Hyde Park!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>At Lausanne, unfortunately, there is every reason -to fear that the English and the Turks are <i>both</i> adopting -the method of not listening. It works, of course -(so far as getting your own way), if <i>one</i> party is firmly -in possession; but when the claim to control is -in dispute, and neither can be induced to yield, one -<i>must</i> feel that a little conciliation might be prudent.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Thinking it most unlikely that I shall have another -<span class='pageno' id='Page_291'>291</span>opportunity of talking so freely to any British officials, -I have spoken with great frankness of what has been -in my heart for years, but what I now see can never -be changed.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Lord Curzon spoke courteously of my self-imposed -mission “to serve my country abroad,” but England -will never entrust such tasks to women, or even lend -them any <i>official</i> sanction.</p> - -<p class='c012'>This, then, is my swan song of the work which I -have proved that a woman <i>can</i> do. Before leaving -the stage, I may say what I think.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If you suppose that we are going to let any Tom, -Dick or Harry run our Embassies, as they do in -America, you are very much mistaken.” I was once -“officially” informed: “We may be accused of being -socially exclusive, but everyone knows to which Embassy -they should appeal when anything <i>has to be done</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“That does not touch my complaint,” I answered. -“I shall continue to resent the fact that <i>we</i> are not -allowed the same footing as women in other countries. -We have at last secured the vote, and, theoretically, -the right of entry to all professions; but, proud as we -are of Lady Astor and Mrs. Wintringham, their -presence in Parliament has, rather unfortunately, -produced an impression of far more ‘freedom’ and -‘equality’ than we have actually achieved. Some -are indeed safely on the heights, but most women have -not yet even planted their feet on the lowest rung of -the ladder.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Everyone knows that the Englishman is chivalrous -to women, and is their surest anchor in distress. -He will willingly die for them, but he maintains his -rooted objection to being asked to help them to live.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The French Government sent a <i>woman</i> to Angora -with the fullest official backing in finance and prestige. -Their Ambassador provided a plan for her journey, and -has made public acknowledgment of her service to -France.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We do not require women for this work,” was the -dogmatic reply; which also, of course, ignored the -<i>principle</i> involved in such official rigidity.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_292'>292</span>But with the unfailing courtesy which the best -Englishman never denies to the women whose “interference” -he most resents, “I hope you made our -position clear to your friends the Turks. Those who -serve our Government have always done so of their -own free-will. <i>That is why we are served so well!</i>”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I approached this question from another angle at -Lausanne. As I have already pointed out, and illustrated -from experience in an earlier chapter, it is -most advisable, if not essential, that the Ambassador, -like other great “Personages,” should employ agents to -“try out” the petty “first steps” of any change in -policy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was told by way of reply, that “the first qualification -for ‘entering diplomacy’ is to be twenty-one!” -This, of course, excludes a woman over thirty; a fact -that may serve for answer to many bitter attacks upon -my “Disadvantage of Being a Woman.” A man of -threescore is seldom considered too old for diplomacy; -a woman of thirty-five is fourteen years beyond the -limit.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What would you do with the old men?” I was -asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Teach them golf,” was my prompt retort.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At the Front in a French uniform, speaking French -to my own compatriots, I was always unwilling to -confess my nationality. So long as they thought I was -French, they forgot the lady, and made a friend of the -woman! Shedding their “own” uniform, as it were, -they “let go” in homage and devotion; giving, -being, and appealing for <i>themselves</i>. But the moment -it came out that I was English, the open oyster -closed down and hid its pearl. From these spruce, -upright, and tightly-buttoned uniforms I could never -get through the politeness.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As an interpreter in the Guards once explained it: -“When one of your Generals asks me to buy him a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_293'>293</span><i>Vie Parisienne</i>, he never forgets to add, ‘but don’t -give it to me in front of my officers.’” It must be the -same with women. The Englishman will allow a <i>French</i> -woman to “have a peep” at his soul. To his compatriot -he offers his dignity and his prestige—which are no -better than a bag of bones!</p> - -<p class='c012'>What I have always known, has been brought home -more forcibly than ever during this trip. In matrimony, -at his office, and in the home, the Englishman -must be master. We can, if we must, accept a <i>good</i> -master. Who will help us against the <i>bad</i>? Do the -<i>Laws</i> of England?</p> - -<p class='c012'>It sometimes seems indiscreet for an Englishwoman -to visit the British Embassies in foreign capitals, but I -rarely omit to call on the French; and there are, of -course, certain advantages, under some circumstances, -in a twin-nationality. I have been invited to their -Christmas lunch by General and Madame Pellé.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mr. Neville Henderson, the British <i>chargé d’affaires</i> -at Constantinople, though certainly not pro-Turk, does -not hesitate to criticise the Greeks. An ideal sense of -balance for a diplomat.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Turks like Mr. Henderson; and when I remarked -on the apparent anomaly that “one can be -popular in Turkey without being pro-Turk,” I was met -by the astounding retort that “he succeeds because -he knows how to talk”—a strong argument against -“silent” diplomacy!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I can only hope that he may long remain at his -post. Although he may not like to hear his beloved -Foreign Office called a “mausoleum,” or the burial-ground -for twentieth-century ideals. Of him, one can -repeat what a Cabinet Minister once said of France: that -“he is one of the few ready to give a criminal, or a -genius, <i>his chance</i>.” Though not an enthusiast for any -“Asiatic Revival,” he will accept the inevitable, and -cheer the winner. May he stay at his post <i>at least</i> -till danger is past.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I have just made my first, and I hope my last, stay -<span class='pageno' id='Page_294'>294</span>in Pera. The sister-in-law of my little Turkish -sister is dying, so I cannot accept her hospitality, -though she has begged me to come to her.</p> - -<p class='c012'>What a terrible warning one can take from Pera! -I had not realised the danger of losing oneself in -the ambition to be truly cosmopolitan. These people -belong to all nations and have the souls of none. Their -faces have only one common feature—the lack of the -spirit behind all racial types, the entire absence of any -ideal. In Anatolia I found two forms of inborn -honour: the “nationalist” and the “primitive -peasant.” In Pera I stepped from Tokatlian’s Hotel -to the Embassy with the feeling that someone is -going to stab me in the back.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>This is the fourth Christmas I have spent in Turkey. -On the first occasion the Germans invited me to their -Christmas Tree; outside some Armenians sang -their exquisite native carols; which, like their folk-songs, -make one wish their characters were equally -fine. The concert, however, was interrupted by the -master-scavengers of Constantinople, the innumerable -dogs, against whose furious barking the Christians at -first bravely held on. But the “enemy” trotted away -to collect his forces from every quarter of the city and, -in the end, I won a wager for the dogs <i>versus</i> the Christians. -Our entertainers went home, amidst a never-to-be-forgotten -chorus of canine howling.</p> - -<p class='c012'>In Constantinople the dogs certainly had their -own nationality. Divided against each other by street -feuds, the biggest troop coming from the “station -beat,” where cans of rubbish are emptied from the -Orient express, they yet <i>united</i> to drive out the -“alien” Christians from the fatherland of “Dogdom!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>And so it is with the Moslems. If Albania and -Syria have left their fatherland, it is not wise for a -foreigner to utter a word against Turkey in their -presence.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Mustapha Kemal Pasha will find no difficulty about -proving his confidence in Nationalism. “If Europe -<span class='pageno' id='Page_295'>295</span>deny us justice, we shall obtain justice from Asia -The brotherhood of Islam stands solidly for us.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>This Christmas, after a pleasant dinner at the -hotel with Mr. D——, I asked him to take me to -church. “Can you hold on to Faith after what you -have seen?” he asks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I have sometimes nearly lost hold. But when I -realise that ‘war’ has taken away everything else from -us, I just <i>hang on</i>, hard.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>So I go to church alone, leaving the hideous -jazz-band and the noisy dancers; who drink and step -out like kangaroos by way of enjoyment!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The eternal beauty of the midnight Mass carries -one right away from the dreadful tragedy of life, -handing us, too, spiritual food for the heart’s strengthening. -On the way home I was humming the Christmas -hymn, “Come and Adore Him,” when a clash of discord -struck at me from the approaching hotel-mob; -for <i>their</i> part, humming “<i>j’en ai marre</i>” (“I am fed up”) -the most contagious refrain ever uttered.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I, very unreasonably, poured out my wrath on -Mr. D—— next morning. “Is it impossible to make -them realise what their song <i>means</i>? Nero fiddled -while Rome was burning; they are dancing to the -tune of a poor woman’s broken heart. Someone will -soon find a gay air for “the Song of the Shirt,” and -men will be hopping and braying to it.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>At last I am, fortunately, able to drive quietly -away from Pera. “You haven’t changed a bit, you -always disliked Pera,” my little Turkish sister had said. -“I remember that when we used to go to the Ottoman -Bank to fetch your letters you would have the horses -whipped up so as to ride to Pera and back as quickly -as possible.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Again I am gazing upon the “Sublime Porte.” It -is still “sublime” and the sunset has not changed. Yet -no longer can it command my love; and woman does -not reason!</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_296'>296</span>The old buildings are as magnificent as ever; the -sun is still sparkling on the gold; the picturesque -beggars are still there; the blue sky, the Bosphorus, -and the cypress trees!</p> - -<p class='c012'>Only the heart and spirit of Turkey have gone to -Angora. This is no longer the Turkey of the Turks; -and so I am a stranger here, and there are no friendly -faces of the Anatolians to give me greeting.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Along the road the same houses are tumbling down, -at exactly the same stage of decrepitude. “Nothing -has changed, my child,” I say, “except my heart.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As we pass the old Tekké, however, I miss the -kindly face that used to smile on me from behind the -green grilled window; and we laugh over the curious -souvenirs I managed to obtain from that holy man.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I was walking with Colonel Z., ten years ago, the -first day I noticed him at the window; the big, -lovely, dark eyes; the green swathed turban; the -Persian robe; and on his face the look of the “peace -that passeth understanding.” He must be the “Sower -that went forth to sow,” I said, “please take me in -to him.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But I cannot,” said the colonel; and so, before -he realised what I was doing, I just walked in myself -and told the holy man that “I had come to look at his -‘beautiful face.’” After that I paid him many visits, -sharing his coffee, making signs to the women, and -watching his strange worship, that had not even any -accompaniment of the piping flute.</p> - -<p class='c012'>He told me that no Christian had ever before been -admitted into the Tekké.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Do you consider me a heathen?” I -asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“No, we are all children of God. How can one -of His children be a heathen?”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>“What has become of the old man?” I asked my -Turkish sister.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“They ordered his son—you remember that fine -<span class='pageno' id='Page_297'>297</span>lad—to say <i>Vive la Grèce, Vive Venizelos</i>, and when he -refused, they shot him.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“But what of the old man?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It broke his heart. One day he just fell asleep -and did not wake again.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The harem door is still open. The little daughter, -now thirteen, still calls me Tezajim (dear Aunt), and -we find seats on the marble veranda to wait for the -sun to set over the shores of the Marmora.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“How often I think of you,” murmured my little -sister, “trying and trying, day after day, to paint our -sunset.” And when I repeated that to the late Sir -Alfred East he laughed heartily, saying, “Dear child, -Turner could not have done it?”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>And who has taken the place of my attendant, Miss -Chocolate? The slim figure of a coal-black negress -appears to answer my question, robed in brown velvet, -with a brown velvet toque. I must call her Miss Ink, -though her name is Mary.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I lunch with my Turkish sister as often as the poor -sick woman can spare her, and she is generous. Yet -eighteen of her friends are there already. This time -my friend wears a fur coat and a black veil with -lace over it. “Fancy calling <i>that</i> a veil, I teased her. -Yet I can count the steps taken in the progress of -Turkish women by our lunches. The first time I came -to Turkey, you wanted to go up in a lift, and though -your father said neither ‘yea’ nor ‘nay,’ you did not go. -The second time you often used the lift. The third -time, we lunched at Tokatlian’s restaurant, ‘for ladies -only.’ Now you lunch unveiled (I don’t call <i>that</i> a -veil) in a <i>mixed</i> restaurant.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And yet, now you have won the privilege for -which you have been waiting so many years, you prefer -to lunch ‘with the ladies.’ How like a woman!”</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_298'>298</span> - <h2 id='ch33' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXXIII</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>LAUSANNE PALACE HOTEL—THE HOME OF TURKEY, FRANCE, AND JAPAN—“EVERY POSSIBLE PHASE OF COMPLETE INTERNATIONALISM”</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>“Please</span> reserve comfortable room for Englishwoman -coming from Angora,” so ran the telegram despatched -by an American friend of mine, who had gallantly -determined that I should be well looked after. It was -both comfortable and warm; and, to complete the -welcome, my waking eyes next morning are caught by -the two flags I have learnt to love so well, the Turkish -and the French—the “standards” of two brave -peoples, with the fine spirit that nothing can subdue, -who would choose rather to be annihilated than to live -in servitude.</p> -<p class='c012'>Then I notice the flag of Japan! “What has -Japan to do with it?” I ask Ismet Pasha.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Ah, Miss d’Angora,” he answers with a laugh, -“it is fine sport to watch the poor little bird as they -pluck out his feathers and clip his wings.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Indeed, Lausanne has been “revolutionised” by -this Conference of Peace! It is a golden harvest for -the hotels, which have not a room unoccupied. Every -day luncheons, dinners, and banquets! Everywhere -representatives of the world’s Press! I feel strange, -somehow, in a “neutral” country. Ever since 1914 -I have been living, or travelling, over “seats of war,” -in lands fighting to defend, or attack, an Ideal.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One can respect any sort of an “opinion” from some -point of view; but “neutrality” and “anonymity” -do not sound to me like attributes in which a free -and independent people should feel much pride. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_299'>299</span>Yet the “neutrality” of Switzerland means the <i>International -Red Cross</i> and the <i>League of Nations</i>; and -it has surely earned by its hospitality to the world’s -statesmen, a right to play <i>its</i> part in the historical -peace, for which “the God who Forgives” is waiting.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Orient express is bringing the peoples together; -Lord Curzon from London, Ismet Pasha from -Angora. May their political discussion travel under -one company to our home of peace! This Hotel of -the Strange Tongues is fast become a very Tower of -Babel, for it reveals every possible phase of complete -internationalism, from fox-trots and cocktails to the -folk-songs of Anatolia, sung by the Pasha’s Guards when -off duty. Here, too, are thronging a host of new -nationalities—Georgians, Bolsheviks, Syrians, Sons of -Palestine, and Armenians; each fired by their own -ideals, each proud of their independence; all sighing -for the (political) moon.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For the moment, of course, the Conference has resolved -itself into a duel between Lord Curzon and -Ismet Pasha. Mme. B., indeed, is indignant because, -she says, “our English representative has so bullied -the French delegate that he has been obliged to take -to his bed,” though one can hardly believe that -proud and mighty Republic would choose a man whom -anyone could really bully to bed!</p> - -<p class='c012'>I tried to imagine the Conferences of the future! -“We should appoint a bear for our delegate,” I said, -“send him round to all the other delegations in turn, -to grunt! When his confrères had all taken to their -beds, he could dictate his own term.... After the -senile sensitiveness of M. Barrère, the youthful -‘insolence’ of Riza Nour is most refreshing.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>This is the first occasion of big diplomacy in which -Turkey has ever dared to assert herself. “A free and -independent Turkey” is so unheard of; one sadly fears -it may even now be dismissed as “mere bluff.” Do -they realise, or will they ever believe, that a vast, well-trained -army (who <i>may</i> be called fanatics) are <i>ready</i> and -<i>thoroughly prepared</i> (by military experts) to come out -at a word from their great leader, and once more -<span class='pageno' id='Page_300'>300</span>save their Fatherland? It is sad to feel that the -“Hymn of Independence” I heard on all sides at -Angora, should sound as much “out of harmony” with -the tone of the Conference, as “Anatolian” folk-songs -with a Jazz Band!</p> - -<p class='c012'>America has sent “representatives,” whose chief -is called <i>An Observer</i> and rejoices in the name of <i>Child</i>—“The -Child Observer” or, as it is whispered, “The -Boy Scout.” To point the humour of the situation, I -naturally expected to meet a hoary-headed old gentleman -with a long white beard, like his predecessor at -Rome, Ambassador Robert Underwood Johnson. But -though I was not aware of it at the time, he is the very -young man I reduced to silence, by inquiring the -way in what he called voluble French, who simply -led me to the place without comment, rang the bell, -and went away!</p> - -<p class='c012'>At the Conference one still sees the Powers in turn -calling Turkey “to order,” when their own arrogance -has reduced her delegate to a condition of what the -Press calls his “more than usual insolence.” Then -the “Boy Scout” or “Child Observer” would “try -a little kindness,” to Ismet Pasha. “Don’t you see -the whole world is against you,” to which came the -dignified rejoinder, “We have become accustomed to -that.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As it was in Angora, everyone here talks politics all -day. But I am told that, while they only enjoyed themselves -at Genoa, they do work at Lausanne. I quite -believe in this “work”; certainly the Turkish delegates -are hard at it till two or three every morning. But they -do not forget enjoyment altogether. The younger -members from the commissions have treated themselves -to a <i>thê dansant</i>. “It warms your feet,” said -Hussein Djahid, who takes his dancing very -seriously. “Surely Turks don’t suffer from cold feet,” -I exclaimed, “and I don’t believe you really like it, -you only dance to show us that you can <i>dance</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Press is luxuriously installed in a miniature -palace of its own, at the Palace Hotel; a bar, of course, -a gramophone, a perfect dancing-floor, roulette, and, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_301'>301</span>incidentally, “plenty of room to write.” Mr. Ward -Price politely regrets that “etiquette” will not permit -him to ask me for an interview. Why should newspaper -etiquette be allowed to hamper his “duty” as a -good sportsman?</p> - -<p class='c012'>To the one journalist who really counts at -Lausanne (though his articles were not always printed), -I ventured to bring grave charges against the Press. -“How is it men of talent and education have allowed -themselves to sink to the level of mere machines, that -any ‘big’ proprietor can use to manipulate public -opinion? The ‘Power of the Press’ is a fraud. -You never give us the benefit of your knowledge and -judgment; whether we take a ‘pennyworth of news,’ -or let ‘bang go saxpence.’ ‘Alas,’ said Shakespeare, -‘to choose love by another’s eyes!’ Is it not a hundred -times worse ‘to write by another’s ears?’”</p> - -<p class='c012'>You write only what Mr. MacClure deigns to approve; -and, though doubtless honest and unbiassed, he is not -himself really “free.” He feeds you daily, like the -animals in Regent’s Park, and, after a good night, -you may digest the food. It would be far more honest -to issue an “official” Report, without the “false” -impression of personal judgments formed on the spot, -which a “special correspondent” is meant to produce. -The public is taught to laugh at Ismet’s pleasantries, -via Mr. MacClure! Now I have heard the Pasha rehearsing, -and Lord Curzon preparing his “part”; -but I still want to witness the duel upon the public -platform, <i>for myself</i>.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Could one ever forget the most dramatic moments -of the Second Conference at the Hague! Can such -incidents be reported unless one has actually seen -them! I remember Mr. Choate was down one -afternoon to speak on Disarmament. As he rose, -Baron Marshall von Bieberstein deliberately closed his -ears, and opened a sheet of paper and began to write. -Drawing himself up to his commanding height, with a -stern air of dignity, Mr. Joseph Choate began—“I -have prepared my speech with great care for the express -benefit of Baron Marshall. If the <i>noble</i> gentleman is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_302'>302</span>too busy to “listen” this afternoon, he would, perhaps, -be good enough to make another appointment!” -Surely the fine picture of this grand American calling -the “noble” Baron to order upon a question of good -breeding is one which each correspondent must see, -hear, and describe for himself.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is, no doubt, largely due to the great difficulty -of obtaining first hand news, that most people are -anti-Turk. We were told, for example, that Riza Nour -was “insolent”; whereas he had patiently listened for -hours to nonsense about the “National Armenian -Home,” <i>before</i> he left the Conference room in despair of -being permitted to tell the truth.</p> - -<p class='c012'>And, partly no doubt because they may not comment -upon anything of real importance, the papers are -always ready to enlarge upon some trivial detail that -is calculated to fan the flames of hate, or point the -finger of scorn, towards any Turk. Someone asserted -that the Turkish military expert had made a little mistake -in preparing a map. He himself did not admit -that he was wrong; but in any case, no one pretended -that the matter was in the least important; and it -could, ultimately, be rectified without the slightest -effect on policy. Remember, too, that the poor man -was working from surveys prepared on different systems, -and in a language that describes everything for -us backwards. It would not be remarkable if some -slight error <i>were</i> made in transposing the details to -European measures and methods. Yet the papers all -give columns exposing the “little mistake,” which, -most probably, was never made. Vital questions, -meanwhile, were almost entirely ignored in the Press; -and the “insolent” Asiatics are filled with bitter resentment. -It is idle for Mr. MacClure to say that -“they must expect criticism.” What they complain -of is not “criticism,” but the entire “ignoring” of -their point of view—a very different thing.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The journalist whom I thus attacked admitted that -they deserved all I said. “The public,” he added, “<i>has</i> -been misled, one might say ‘cheated.’ I <i>could</i> myself -have supplied a good deal of first-class information, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_303'>303</span>sufficiently dramatic and interesting to ‘raise -circulations’; had I refused my signature to the -‘official’ news so sparingly doled out for me to put into -shape. I can promise you that, on me at least, your -words have not been wasted.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Let us hope he may substantiate his pledge. At -present the Press is neither a critic, a check on intrigue, -nor an inspiration. It echoes the Governments, good -or bad. In Constantinople, for instance, the American -and English “special correspondents” frankly confessed -that they employ a few “scouts” to collect -copy, and merely “hash up” what comes in from -these “scavengers” of rumour and gossip.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Propaganda in the Turkish Press is under the direction -of Kemal Bey (the poet) and Ruchène Echref. -Men of such literary distinction, alas, are no better fitted -for such work than a watchmaker would be to heave -coal. In Turkey they do not understand how heavy -are the hands that can mange propaganda: that posts -are created for the men who can fill them, and men are -not made for any post that may happen to be vacant.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>It was always a pleasure, <i>and</i> a surprise, to meet -Lord Curzon socially at Lausanne; and if only his -traditional respect for British prestige would have -allowed him to be “himself” with Ismet Pasha and -the Turkish delegates, to approach discussions with all -the charm and wit that he knows so well how to exert, -I am convinced that the <i>practical</i> gain to both countries -would be enormous.</p> - -<p class='c012'>For though in debate his “official” manner is -bound to emphasise the impression of a determined -man, so clearly knowing his own mind that argument -or even discussion is waste of time; I found him sincerely -interested in all the personal details of my trip; -and his penetrating questions were proof enough that -he is quite ready to hear all sides, and really anxious -to understand the country, the people, and their point -<span class='pageno' id='Page_304'>304</span>of view, from anyone who knows them, irrespective of -what “heresies” they may uphold. To me personally, -he was not only courteous, but respectfully attentive; -the only Englishman whose compliments and -praise <i>meant</i> a real gratitude, a serious acknowledgment -of my fifteen years’ study and adventure, as “worthy -service to my country.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Ismet Pasha asked me if I had succeeded in making -Lord Curzon understand the grave importance of their -movement.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I may have helped a little,” I answered, “I -believe I have. But he has always understood nearly -the whole truth. What I fear <i>you</i> and your friends -must find it almost impossible to understand is the -“public opinion” in the West, which he cannot ignore.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Does he know how foolish it is to talk of a “home” -for Armenia?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He knows it would be as useless as to tie ‘a -swarm of bees under a donkey’s nose.’ But, though—as -you justly say—it is not their business, England -cannot ignore America and the Powers. It would not -bring you peace, or justice, to affront them. I do -not wonder that you and Riza Nour grow impatient -with the wasteful methods of traditional diplomacy; -but that is <i>our</i> way of democracy, to conciliate public -opinion by a pose of far greater obstinacy and intolerance -than we feel, or intend to act on.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>We in England, however, should realise that, however -wise and sincere Lord Curzon’s own sympathy -may be, the general attitude—in England and the -Continent—is still based on our interpretation of the -“old” Turkey. Our experts, for example, in Constantinople, -still approach the Nationalists as they -were accustomed to order about Abdul Hamid’s Turks. -They are, naturally and inevitably, “touchy” in -Angora, but we shall not help matters by any offensive -allusions to the “Moslem with his tail up, no -thank you!”</p> - -<div id='i304' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i304.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>LAUSANNE PALACE HOTEL.<br /><span class='sc'>The Home of Turkey, France, and Japan.</span><br />p. 304</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>It would be not only wiser and fairer, but more -<span class='pageno' id='Page_305'>305</span>dignified, to congratulate these people on the achievements -of the Grand National Assembly, which the -“Mother of Parliaments” should surely welcome with -honour and respect.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>I found Ismet Pasha often depressed by the immensity -of his task; harassed, too, lest his own people -should not feel that he had done enough. “They -have sent me, a soldier, to fight a Bismarck, one of -your greatest statesmen,” he said one day.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I repeated what Lord Curzon had told me, with -obvious sincerity, “You know, I <i>like</i> the little man.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“And I respect <i>him</i>,” was the prompt reply, as -his bright eyes lit up with renewed hope and courage.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Another day he was again in despair. “Well, it -will just <i>have</i> to be war.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>But I would not hear the word. To all the Turks, -Riza Nour, Tewfik, Hikmet, I say the same. “We are -both in the wood. We must walk round and round, -until we have found a way out.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>It may sound paradoxical, but, while there is absolutely -no offence to British prestige in the National -Pact that is worth shedding one drop of human blood -to remove, it yet stands for such vital ideals, means -so much, and has been achieved with such grand courage -and self-sacrifice, that the Nationalists must uphold -and defend it to the bitter end. That is the “problem” -of Lausanne.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is, however, no reason why, if foreigners are -afraid to trust themselves, and the capital, in a Turkey -governed by Turks (without “protection,” which -means “interference”) they should not leave the -people to find their own way towards commercial and -political stability.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Lord Curzon, naturally, <i>told</i> me nothing; but his -questions enabled me to guess at what he wished -and intended to achieve. Perhaps I have guessed -wrongly.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_306'>306</span>Is he not anxious to keep Mosul, from fear of Russia. -We could buy the oil, and the Turks would gladly -sell it. Also a promise to Arabs has been broken -before now; and if our bungling has led Turkey into -a temporary alliance with Russia, no one knows what -will come of the German-Jew Soviets. Maybe, we -have far more need to protect India from them, than -to stand on our dignity with “new” Turkey.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The British Empire was founded, and can only -survive, on Trust. It is a poor policy that dare not -act for fear of backing “the wrong horse.” It is a -criminal policy, when hesitation means war and the -loss of millions of lives.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Lord Curzon’s association with the Coalition -has sadly shaken his high repute for “good faith”; -and unless he can see his way to come forward frankly -for a “free and independent” Turkey, the Nationalists -will fight in their own defence.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There seem to me too many “Commissions” at -Lausanne. Closer contact between Lord Curzon -himself and those able men, Djavid and Hamid Bey, -as well as Ismet Pasha, would surely not only go far -to restore their confidence in his good faith, but -enormously “speed up” decisions on the <i>essential</i> -problems that need to be promptly settled.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As I listened to the public speeches of Lord Curzon -I was haunted by all the fateful memories of the ruin -I had seen in Angora. The doubt <i>would</i> come; does -he really realise the supreme necessity to wipe out for -ever that awful page of history, to <i>establish</i> peace, and -to <i>help</i>, with all the tactful sympathy at his command, -the new nation to stand on its own feet. Maybe we -should even be comforted by hope, if our Government -would only take us more fully into its confidence. The -people of England are, after all, deeply concerned. -They have faith, they would gladly be loyal; but -why are they kept in the dark? When I am speaking -with the Turkish delegates, I sometimes fancy I -catch a look on their faces of “deep anguish” as we name -Lord Curzon, and my heart sinks. How am I to convince -them, certain as I am he is right, that he is not -<span class='pageno' id='Page_307'>307</span>drifting towards the false “sentiment” that has been -broadcasted to uphold the Greeks?</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>On the anniversary of the In-Eunus, I dined with -Ismet Pasha. When he refused dates I told him -that, “so long as he kept the ‘dates’ of his victories, -he needed no others.” “I left Constantinople with -nothing,” he answered. “I returned the head of the -Army.” Turkey gives every man his chance.</p> - -<p class='c012'>So far as possible, I am dividing my time between -British and Turks; and no one can say that either -gives more time or “hard labour” to their responsibilities, -than the other. It is not possible, certainly, -for any visitor to interrupt Lord Curzon, he seems to -be working all the time.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>There is one figure we all watch carefully at the -Conference. I once compared the face of M. Venizelos -to an Apostle! Now he hovers round the British -Delegation like a bird of ill-omen, for some inexplicable -reason still mesmerising our diplomatists, carrying -trouble wherever he goes. Djavid Bey laughs to -remind me of how proud I had once been to pour out -tea for them both!</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>One naturally feels great interest in Melle Stanciof, -as the first woman diplomatist, and her personality -repays study. Tall and thin, with the large eyes of -the Oriental, she is very able, speaks English without -an accent, and loves her work. I repeated to her the -dogma that to be twenty-one is an essential qualification -for a diplomat; but she is twenty-seven, and only -laughed at the idea.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Sir Wm. Tyrell, Permanent Head of the British -Foreign Office, with all his Irish charm and wit, is as -clever as Machievelli. He delights in calling himself -“Chief of the Underlings”; but men like Mr. Forbes -Adam and Mr. Harold Nicholson were experienced -<span class='pageno' id='Page_308'>308</span>diplomats when their Turkish colleagues were in their -cradles; which, as Ismet Pasha sometimes complains, -“gives them no chance for a fair fight.” But when I -dined with them as his guests, there was no fighting; -and our host, I felt, was very well qualified to promote -friendly relations, by the cultured ease of his -hospitality.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To my thinking, British “underlings” are very -able men, and not pro-Russian as the Turks are disposed -to fear. They were all anxious for peace, -and quite sincerely eager to understand the -nationalist point of view.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>During the conference both M. Poincaré and M. -Mussolini visited Lausanne and dined with Lord Curzon.</p> - -<p class='c012'>I have had many talks about the Patriarch, whom -Mustapha Kemal declares must be removed: “He -must be got rid of, with the other relics of Byzantium!” -The problem is especially hard on Turkey, -because it arose from what ought to have been considered -the great strength of the nation, though—in -this case—it has been exaggerated into weakness, -her immense tolerance for other people’s religion.</p> - -<p class='c012'>When the Byzantians conquered the Turkish tribes -who had emigrated into Asia Minor, they compelled -the tribesmen to be converted, and join the Orthodox -Church. The Bible, and all their prayers, were translated -into Turkish; whence, without design, the Turkish -Orthodox Church came into being. When, later, under -the Seldjoucides and Osmanli, Anatolia passed into -Moslem hands, no attempt was made to interfere with -the Orthodox religion of the people.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was only when the Ottomans ruled in Constantinople -and the Sultans used their growing power to -support the Greek Patriarch, that the Anatolians began -to see they were being manœuvred into the power of -the Helenes. During the war, the Patriarch’s intrigues -became more daring and more obvious; until Papas -Eftim Effendi proposed in the Assembly that Fanar -should be separated from the Orthodox Church, and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_309'>309</span>that the Orthodox Church of Anatolia should rule in -Thrace and Constantinople.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Yet when Ismet Pasha spoke of the religious “tolerance” -of Turkey, Lord Curzon replied: “How can -you claim to be tolerant. All your past record will -be destroyed if you dismiss the Patriarch.” And -rather than risk such a charge against the Nationalists, -he gave way.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It seems to me, I confess, that this concession is a -grave risk. The interference, thus permitted, may -prove to be more disastrous than that of a few foreign -judges against which they so resolutely protest. As -Mr. Nicholson said he hoped that I had told Lord -Curzon how much the Turks were giving up.... “I -think,” he said, “their tolerance is very fine.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>Ismet Pasha often worked all night with his hench-men, -Colonel Tewfik and Hikmet Kiamil, a grandson -of Kiamil Pasha, who has inherited his grandfather’s -political talents. They felt that the slightest failure -to meet the immense demands made on the delegation -would stamp them as an inferior race, and they determined -it should not be.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was actually after one of their most arduous -sittings, up to three o’clock in the morning, that I -obtained from Ismet Pasha the comprehensive exposition -of his point of view, that I have put together -in the following pages.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Ismet Pasha, like Mr. Edison, is deaf; and possibly -feels with that great inventor that, “though it is -uncomfortable when people insist on making a spitoon -of your ear, for the rest <i>it is all advantage</i>.” For example, -at dinner one can “get on with one’s thinking,” -instead of listening to the conversation. Ismet Pasha -only “hears what he wants to hear,” often a great -advantage in diplomacy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>As to being content with the “working of the Conference,” -he said, “we are doing all in our power to -make peace, but it is difficult for one nation against -all the other powers. Willingly or unwillingly, they -<span class='pageno' id='Page_310'>310</span>cannot see what our National Pact means to us; and -that, as a proud people, we cannot accept terms of -peace which they would not think of offering the -Greeks and Bulgars. It is said that the Great Powers -must conciliate public opinion which hates and distrusts -us as ‘barbarians,’ but we feel certain that the -Powers could deal with ‘public opinion’ if they so -desired, and convince the whole world that we are now -working by civilised methods to become a free and -independent nation. Instead of facing the vital question -of a ‘right to exist’ as a State, we feel that much -time has been wasted over details that do not need any -discussion. It is known, for example, that we are -offering, what we have always offered, <i>equal</i> rights to -Moslems and Christians; yet we are asked to establish -<i>in</i>equality by exempting Christians from military -service.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“If ever the Powers consent to accept our point of -view, it is considered a great concession, and when we -point out that our <i>whole</i> demands have been reduced -by us to the lowest minimum, they laugh; imagining -it is a ‘concession’ to give us back <i>one room</i> in our own -house.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“For three years, Turkey has given proof that none -can dispute of her organising capacity, her great -vitality, and her deep longing to regenerate her -country. We came here hoping and believing that -the plenipotentiaries would bear this in mind. They -do not. They beg us to ‘trust’ them; but they -treat us with the same caution, the same <i>dis</i>trust, as -they have always shown towards the old ‘decayed’ -Turkey, towards which, maybe, there <i>used to be</i> some -slight justification. Such an attitude cannot produce -satisfactory progress.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“What are the chief obstacles to Peace?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“Mosul—Finance—Judicial Capitulations—Reparations.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“We are only asking four milliard gold francs for -reparations. That is a small figure for a country that -has been completely devastated, and it takes no count -of loss of life.</p> - -<p class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_311'>311</span>“Mosul was never captured by Great Britain, -though they claim the right of conquest. Their -troops were a long way from Mosul when ours were -demobilised at the end of the war. They ‘captured’ -it by ‘violating the terms of the Armistice’; as they -did at Constantinople, and as the French did in Cilicia.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“The population of Mosul is Kurd and Turkish, -with only a small Arab minority. It must, therefore, -belong to Turkey on all the principles by which the -Powers have determined the frontiers of Europe. -This was recognised, indeed, in the Sykes-Picot agreement, -which admitted that Mosul is <i>not</i> a part of -Mesopotamia.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“It was finally handed to England by the French -Foreign Office; but M. Clemenceau afterwards -apologised that he had not previously ‘<i>known of the -oil there</i>.’ The Kurds of Mosul have nothing in -common with the Arabs; and naturally want to be -united with their ‘brothers’ in Anatolia. Why are we -the only nation to whom the principle of racial -frontiers has been denied? By what kind of justice -does an Arab minority, probably smaller than one -quarter of the population, give England the right to -annex Mosul!</p> - -<p class='c012'>“To insist upon our accepting ‘foreign judges,’ is -an humiliating insult to our Government that is altogether -incompatible with National Sovereignty. Such -interference, and such an affront to the authority of -the State would be no less injurious to the interests of -foreigners in Turkey than to our own. It could not -fail to provoke continual clashing of interests, confusion, -and friction between Turkish and foreign administration -of law, that would be fatal to commercial -security <i>for all alike</i>. Here again the Powers are still -‘building on sand.’</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As to finance, it is a serious difficulty for us; -but no question of mere money will ever separate us -from England.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“I firmly believe that, when once the Powers can -get rid of their old prejudices, the traditional friendship -will revive. England and Turkey, surely, need -<span class='pageno' id='Page_312'>312</span>each other; we need England and England needs us, -if only to pacify those Moslem people whom <i>England’s -injustice to us</i> has roused to righteous anger against her.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“A strong Anglo-Turkish alliance would mean not -only peace in the Near East and for Islam; it means -peace for the whole world.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>People have asked me “Why did Lausanne fail?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>I answer: “It did <i>not</i> fail. It <i>would</i> have been -failure had Ismet Pasha signed, at the pistol’s point, -a treaty that could not be ratified. He knew that -the Assembly would never sign the terms offered by -the Powers; and, as I told Lord Curzon, he had to -consult his colleagues in Angora. It would hinder -peace, not promote it, to sign with no security for -ratification.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>As Ismet said, “We have purchased our Anatolia -with the blood and money of her peasants. We can -die, but we cannot betray them.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_313'>313</span> - <h2 id='ch34' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXXIV</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>TURKEY AND THE LEAGUE OF NATIONS—THE PARLIAMENT OF NATIONS MUST BE TRULY IMPARTIAL AND INTERNATIONAL</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>For</span> those of us who pinned their faith on the League -of Nations, it is a matter of the deepest regret that -Turkey has lost her trust in the great Parliament of -All Nations, especially now that it could have played -so important a part in settling our differences at the -Lausanne Conference. It is not entirely the Turks’ -fault; indeed, considering all things, one can scarcely -urge them to any other attitude.</p> -<p class='c012'>To them, at least, the League must seem definitely -anti-Islam, and (as founder of the Lyceum Club -‘League of Nations Circle,’ of which Lady Gladstone -is president) I have continually endeavoured to impress -upon Lord Robert Cecil the danger of allowing such an -idea to remain uncontradicted, that it may spread -more widely and be more firmly held.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Turkey never interfered with British property -during the war, and British merchants continued their -business in Smyrna throughout the hostilities. Yet -we not only confiscated, but sold enemy property. -In one case, for example, the business of a man, brought -up in England and a pronounced Anglophil, was sold -to a Greek for a quarter of its value, and the money -sequestered by the Government. Had the Bey even -been a traitor he should have been given the full value -of his business, and then expelled, instead of being -driven to exist on money borrowed at an exorbitant -rate of interest. On the other hand, Ottoman “Christian” -property was freed from sequestration; a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_314'>314</span>distinction between “neighbours,” hardly consistent -with the teaching of our faith.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The “pick-pocketing” habit of confiscating enemy -property—Turkish, German, or Austrian—is surely -beneath an Empire with our reputation; and the -plea from France and Italy’s example does not strike -one as a dignified defence. As a matter of fact, France -emphatically denies ever having taken a penny from -the Turks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Is not such flagrant injustice an obvious case for -the League’s authority to intervene? When visiting -the “League of Nations” headquarters in Geneva the -other day, Sir Eric Drummond asked me why Turkey -should be so suspicious of the League? I could only -refer him to the public speeches of our most responsible -statesmen. When Mr. Lloyd George hurled insults -at Islam, it only meant one more item in the big bill -of Moslem grievances against England; when Lord -Balfour and Lord Robert Cecil speak in similar strains, -Islam listens. While <i>they</i> refuse justice and mercy, -Turkey mistrusts the League.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Because the League stood aside, and left the Greeks -in Smyrna, as Britain refused discussion with Turkish -emissaries, Mustapha Kemal was driven to arms, which -gave Turkey, indeed, the victory, but spread ruin -throughout Anatolia.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Should not a careful consideration for the <i>feelings</i> of -all nations be an outstanding characteristic of the -League, which is the expression of the world-brotherhood? -Yet it suggested that a man, a Mr. Pitt, -should be allowed to search the harems for enslaved -Greeks and Armenians! An incomprehensible insult -that, if Turkey ever forgives, she cannot forget. The -Turks are a proud and aristocratic race, with venerable -traditions, which, if we will not understand, we should, -at least, respect. To them, home-life is a sealed and -sacred book.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Why, again, was the preparation of a full report on -“harems” entrusted to a Roumanian poetess, rather -than to such a woman as Halidé Hanoum, of tried -experience and world-wide reputation for liberal broadmindedness? -<span class='pageno' id='Page_315'>315</span>We have depended, in the past, chiefly -on nursery governesses whose exaggerations and misconceptions -on this subject are invaluable to sensational -writers. Hence the sordid colouring for Western -eyes thrown on a system of delicate lights and shades -and very complicated nuances.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Greek and Armenian servants in Turkish -harems would be themselves the first to resent interference. -For they are treated in Moslem homes with -an equality, consideration, and leniency no Christian -mistress would dream of permitting. They, often, -practically control the household, and are, indeed, -sometimes given an unwise preference in the Pasha’s -affections. They hold the purse-strings, direct, advise, -and administer domestic affairs, as they also, so largely, -manage the commercial life of the country. In return, -naturally, the Turk expects absolute loyalty; and woe -to those who refuse, or betray, it.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It is true, of course, that backstairs propaganda—from -American Relief Workers, among others—has -been at work to misinform the League; and had reliable -information been available, those unfortunate -mistakes would never have been made.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Indeed, the honestly impartial head of its own -Press department now reports: “We have tested the -real value of Greek and Armenian propaganda, and -sympathise with the Turk in consequence.” Such -repentance comes rather late in the day, but may even -yet produce a wiser policy.</p> - -<p class='c012'>It was one of the Fethi Bey’s many humiliating -experiences, on his visit to London, to see the harem -misjudged by an ex-governess, and to read the assertion -of a lady from Boston that “beautiful Greek girls -had to disfigure themselves to prevent the Turks from -stealing them!” Statements that might have been -treated with the contempt they deserve, had they not -been accorded such prominence by the Press.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On the other hand, one must acknowledge that the -Turk’s attitude towards his detractors is more lofty -than practical. Pride forbids him to answer accusations, -or disseminate the truth; which he, as a fatalist, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_316'>316</span>firmly believes “must out”! They will, certainly, -never hoist the propagandist “on his own petard,” -since, to their thinking, the man who accepts money -to defend a cause is no better than a “political -prostitute.” They argue that “he who works for -me, must believe in me, as a true friend, eager to -help.” And for the moment, Europe has made them -feel that “facts” would avail them nothing—“whatever -we do is wrong.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In the East news spreads with accurate rapidity -without the assistance of newspapers; but the foreigner -who needs chapter and verse for every statement may -be, to some extent, excused for suspecting their obstinate -reticence about statistics and exact figures. I should, -myself, have welcomed more information about a -story I quite believe, but cannot substantiate, that -came from an Italian lady at Broussa. She said that -the Greeks burnt a Turkish prison, <i>with all the prisoners -in it</i>, and, “to her dying day she would never forget -their awful screams,” but no one will give me the least -idea of how many prisoners were slaughtered. I called -on a Vali whose palace was burned to cinders before -I had the information. And I could discover no precise -details, despite inquiry at Angora, Constantinople, and -Lausanne!</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Norwegian head of the Minorities Committee, -a man given to wise and just decisions, has said: -“It is no use expecting Asiatics to be Europeans. -They have as much right to do things in their Asiatic -way, as we have to act like Europeans. There are -standards of right and wrong, against which neither -may transgress, but for the rest, nothing can be done.” -He also agreed that to secure protection from a minority, -you must enforce loyalty to the majority. I told him -the head of the Armenian community had begged the -Pope to see that they “were left to the mercy” of the -Turks, which <i>is</i> merciful.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The League can really help Christians in Turkey by -putting a stop to pro-Christian propaganda, for which -Armenians in Anatolia will have to suffer.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There is so much that the League of one’s dream -<span class='pageno' id='Page_317'>317</span>could do for Turkey, as for all the peoples; and we -criticise only from hope and desire of some hastening -in its approach to perfection, and the establishing -of its supreme authority. As Sir Eric Drummond -pointed out, the high-handed and retrograde attitude -towards Eastern problems would not be possible were -Turkey represented on the council: as others have -seen, that while the so-called “enemy” peoples are -unrepresented, the League cannot be truly either impartial -or international.</p> - -<p class='c012'>To secure equal justice for all, it must stand outside, -and above, divisions of race, creed or prejudice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Nevertheless, we hope that Turkey will trust the -“imperfect” League. Maybe, after all, in dealing -with Mosul, it would grant the plebiscite which Lord -Curzon declares is “impossible.”</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>It is not generally known why Colonel House chose -Geneva, in preference to Lausanne, as the seat of the -League of Nations.... After long and careful deliberation, -which yet produced only indecision, I am told -that he asked his valet’s advice.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Joseph replied: “Geneva would be much better -for your rheumatism!”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Once installed, however, Colonel House discovered -another reason. At Geneva, lived Josephine!</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_318'>318</span> - <h2 id='ch35' class='c009'>CHAPTER XXXV</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c010'> - <div>THE FUTURE—ABOVE ALL, A LASTING PEACE</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Will</span> the future bring us peace; above all, a lasting -peace? Though nothing less is worth having, <i>we -cannot have war</i>.</p> -<p class='c012'>I saw M. Franklin-Bouillon in Paris and, though -not perhaps in agreement with all he did in Syria, I -maintain that his work in Moudania deserved -thanks rather than criticism. He knows the Turks -well, and affirms that he would have made peace at -Lausanne. He possibly might have done so, but -would it have been <i>lasting</i> peace?</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>On my way back to London we cross the channel -in a Handley-Page Aeroplane. There is just time to -prepare a conclusive answer to all questions about the -harem; for no matter how eager we are to proceed, -after six months’ study of the Angora movement, -to more important impressions, every newspaper -correspondent asks about the harem.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Just as for those who, in the States; held me -personally responsible for our policy in Ireland, I -stole from <i>Life</i> a witty answer, compressed into this -dramatic “tabloid,” that “turned away American -wrath”:</p> - -<p class='c012'>“<i>Pat</i>: Wouldn’t it be awful if England now gave -us all we wanted?”</p> - -<p class='c012'>“<i>Mike</i>: Sure, and ’twould be like her to play us the -dirty trick.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>In like manner, I prepared two shots to kill “harem” -inquiries:—</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>One</i>: “Why has the Turk only one wife, to-day?</p> - -<p class='c012'>“When four wives meant four tillers of the ground, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_319'>319</span>there was ‘sense’ in polygamy. It is ‘folly’ now -they buy their dresses in Paris.”</p> - -<p class='c012'><i>Two</i>: “Why are you always so early at the -Mosque?” a pious man was asked.</p> - -<p class='c012'>“As I have two wives, I leave home as soon as -possible.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>The result was as I expected.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c012'>But what about the peace for which we all wait so -anxiously?</p> - -<p class='c012'>What has the future in store for us? We must -turn over a new page, and find our way with great -care, both sides first uttering their <i>mea culpas</i>, with -honest courage to learn the lesson of their mistakes.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Above all, may Lausanne learn the lesson of Versailles.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Which of the Big Four dared face <i>the real problems</i> -of Versailles? They decided nothing, but, leading -us into the pestilent zone of neutrality, imposed a -“Government by Committees” upon the world, which -could not work. Nature abhors neutrality, as she -abhors a vacuum. And so it is in politics.</p> - -<p class='c012'>On the other hand, however, we ask ourselves what -nation was as badly beaten as Turkey? Yet which -of our late enemies has dared such open defiance to -the Allies? Not, however, in consequence of their -victory over the Greeks; but because she knows that, -however much we may pretend, none wants to fight; -and no one can win the prize of “Constantinople” -save by conquest.</p> - -<p class='c012'>We had foolish visions of a new Byzantium, and -thought that Greece would reward our support by a -“place on the Bosphorus.” But had the Powers -accepted this monstrous idea of a Greek Bosphorus, -we should have found it necessary to punish the arrogance -of our <i>soi-disant</i> fellow-burglars. The <i>timeo -Danaos</i>, etc., of ancient Greece has still its place in -modern politics.</p> - -<p class='c012'>The Allies, however, knew they could not create a -“neutral” Constantinople, and had intended, before -the Bolshevik regime, to present the prize to Russia. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_320'>320</span>A “committee” government of France, Italy and -England would mean English rule; and our blundering -had been too patent.</p> - -<p class='c012'>There remained no choice. Constantinople had to -be given back to Turkey. Though she was beaten in -the Great War, which she has now forgotten, we could -not conquer her (single-handed, as we should find ourselves -to-day); and, therefore, “she has to have her -own way.” The endeavour to curb New Turkey by -“neutral zones” would prove as useless as an attempt -to check the tides. It is only by an honest peace, carefully -thought out in every detail and planned for permanent -security, that we can regain our prestige in -the Near East.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Perhaps, however, the greatest lesson we have still -to learn from Turkey’s victory was spoken in Gœthe’s -lines:—</p> - -<p class='c012'>“He who would be just must have consideration -for <i>all</i> men.”</p> - -<p class='c012'>Or again, as it is written in the Turkish lines quoted -by Professor Browne:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c022'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Kam máta gawm un wa ma mátat makárimee pum</div> - <div class='line in2'>Wa asha gawm un was hum fi ’n—nase amwátu!</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c022'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Many a people’s virtues survive when themselves are sped,</div> - <div class='line'>And many a people linger, who are counted by man as dead!</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c027'>Turkey is not dead, but born again out of the -ruins of a Great Civilisation. May there be peace again -between East and West, that shall bring peace to a -world so greatly needing what it so little deserves!</p> - -<p class='c012'>My final words are of sincere congratulations to New -Turkey, of warmest thanks to all the friends who gave -unending interest to my visit, of pious hopes for peace.</p> - -<p class='c012'>At Lausanne, Ismet Pasha always gave the toast -of “The British Empire and King George,” and I responded -with “Turkey and Mustapha Kemal Pasha”; -then we touched glasses, coupling the names. May -“coming events cast their shadows before.” <i>Inch -Allah!</i> and again, <i>Inch Allah!</i></p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>THE END</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c003' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_321'>321</span> - <h2 id='idx' class='c009'>INDEX</h2> -</div> -<ul class='index c003'> - <li class='c028'>Abdul Halik Bey, the Vali of Smyrna, 44 <i>et seq</i>.</li> - <li class='c028'>Abdul Hamid, an exception, who reversed Turkish ideals, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a> - <ul> - <li>his terrible régime, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>the ruthless, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>clever at “losing” Turks and forgetting them, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li>vain hopes for his “Parliament,” <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - <li>his excellent cigarettes, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - <li>his Turks used to be ordered about, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>-<a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Abdul Medjid, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Abiloff, M., Azerbaijan, Ambassador for Caucasians, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ablutions, a religious rite, described, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Acropolis, at Athens, difficulties of its ascent, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Adabazar, a Circassian tribe, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Adalia, school closed, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Adam, Mr. Adam, of British delegates, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Adana, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Abdul Hak, Hamid, Turkish writer, for the people, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a> - <ul> - <li>acknowledged leader of the “New” literature, reconstructs learning and creates the soul of Turkey, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Adnan Bey, Dr., Vice-President of the Assembly, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a> - <ul> - <li>Angora High Commissioner in Constantinople, husband of Halidé Hanoum, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Adrianople, the Siege of, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Æschylus, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Afghanistan, Ambassador, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Afioum-Karahissar, where they finally leave train, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Aga Aglou Ahmed Bey, Director of Angora Press, repeats that “whatever we do is wrong,” <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, - <ul> - <li>admits the value of propaganda, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>views on the Press, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><i>Agamemnon</i>, on board the, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ahmet Emine, brilliant journalist, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_322'>322</span>Aidin Railway, antiques found in laying the route, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Alascheir, once prosperous, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Albania, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Albanians, wiped out, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a> - <ul> - <li>scheme to exclude, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Albert Hall, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Alcohol, its use and abuse, taught in schools, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Alewites, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Alfred and the cakes, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Algeciras, and its assembly of fallen angels, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ali Fouad Pasha, general, President of “Rights of Roumelia and Anatolia,” largely the inspiration of the Assembly, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a> - <ul> - <li>commanding in the North, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>America and her churches as advertisers, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a> - <ul> - <li>anecdotes of her journalistic enterprise, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li>her two generations of Jews, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li>approved as a “democracy,” <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li>should spread gospel of Rockefeller Institute against vermin and microbes, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>American, author will <i>not</i> pretend to be, ix - <ul> - <li>“nerves” in the war, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>author supposed to be American, but objects, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, 76 <i>et passim</i></li> - <li>sings “Swannee River,” <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li>the first at Smyrna, his advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li>the second at Smyrna, his advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li>scheme to rebuild Turkey <i>à la</i> “States,” <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> - <li>unwise propaganda for Christians <a href='#Page_175'>175</a></li> - <li>Nonconformity and the Holy War, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li>idle talk of a new “home” for Armenians, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>their mischievous propaganda, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>characteristic, of arrogant obstinacy, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - <li>diplomacy not wanted in English Embassies, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - <li>Near East relief workers in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li>who are, unfortunately, too pro-Armenian, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_323'>323</span>American Relief Worker to the rescue, 256 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>his marvellous efficiency as a traveller, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>-<a href='#Page_258'>258</a>, 259 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>joins author on journey to Constantinople, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - <li>views on Greek barbarity, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - <li>recognises “personal” element in all relations with Turks, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - <li>eager to know author’s view of American work in Turkey, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>-<a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>his idea of service in “understanding,” <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - <li>linguist and jack-of-all-trades, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> - <li>rudeness, a tactful cure for women’s nerves, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> - <li>back-stair influence on the League, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Americans, do not know how to drink, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a> - <ul> - <li>delightful, <i>in spite</i> of their Government, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> - <li>done fine work in education, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>in Turkey, with the best intentions, interfere too much, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>-<a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>may have “concessions,” if they keep their hands off architecture, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Anafarta, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Anatolia, Greek atrocities in, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a> - <ul> - <li>sense of isolation, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> - <li>great hospitality, 72 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>general condition of country, 74 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>nowhere to house the poor people, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> - <li>children and soldiers of, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> - <li>people comforted by being <i>seen</i>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li>wonderful recovery of trade, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li>a typical <i>han</i> (inn), <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li>similarity of devastated towns, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - <li>bazaars and curio-merchants reviving their trade, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - <li>the carriages and drivers of the country, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - <li>people seem to have “walked out of the Bible,” <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - <li>excellent newspapers, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li>primitive machinery, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li>must be in at 5 o’clock sunset, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li>accepted heavy taxation, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - <li>song of her love for Roumelia, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li>carpets and rugs from, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_324'>324</span>the native music, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li>refugees of, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li>unfortunate influence of American relief workers against Turkey on behalf of Armenians, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>but they have done fine work in education, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>advantages of Anglo-French capital, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>retains old customs largely abandoned in Constantinople, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li>true hospitality in a two-roomed cabin, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - <li>character of the people, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>everywhere maps of Asia Minor, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>their folk-songs, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>cared for by Pope, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> - <li>must not grumble in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a></li> - <li>need lessons in hygiene, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>-<a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>peasants declare they do <i>not</i> lack anything, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>a “casual” driver, 259 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>strange method of caravan-driving, where one donkey leads a troop of camels, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> - <li>colour of soil suggests rich veins of iron, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> - <li>peasants accept low prices when told that times are bad, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li>her folk-songs heard in Lausanne, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>when it first became Moslem, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li>being manœuvred into power of Helenes, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li>purchased by blood of peasants, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li><i>See</i> <a href='#Angora'>“Angora”</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Andromache, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Anglican scheme for union with Greek Church, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li class='c028'><a id='Angora'></a>Angora, “the little Republic of the Mountains,” <a href='#Page_ix'>ix</a> - <ul> - <li>discourtesy to ambassadors from, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li>no luxuries in, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - <li>unknown to British, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> - <li>misunderstood in Angora, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li>at last near at hand, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li>first view of, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li>somehow disappointing, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li>atmosphere of brotherhood, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> - <li>the town described, 134–<a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - <li>high rents, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_325'>325</span>everyone reads the papers, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> - <li>the real “New Turkey,” <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li>a primitive printing works, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li>the Hadji Baïram “quarter,” <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li>not many “sights,” except hospitals, schools and gardens, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li>serious housing problem, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li>how we exaggerate here, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li>all men proud of their country, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li>will Angora or Constantinople be capital of the new State, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li>Holy Angora, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> - <li>Treaty signed here with France, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li>its foreign personalities, 202 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>Germans have no influence, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - <li>but are conciliating Turks in Germany, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - <li>surprising progress, especially in hospitals, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - <li>former “Director of its Press,” <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>present “Director of its Press,” <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li>its famous Mosque of Hadgi Baïram, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li>carries one back to centuries before Christ, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li>where do all the people live? <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li>dangers of the bad roads, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li>a “difficult” house to find—“near the pump,” <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - <li>the Christian Colony, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>-<a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>representative in Rome, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>admirable organisation of Justice by Djelaleddine Arif Bey, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - <li>no tips, no haggling over prices, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li>a <i>woman</i> sent out to Angora by French Government, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - <li>has taken from Constantinople the heart and spirit of Turkey, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - <li>naturally touching, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>-<a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>-<a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, 273 <i>et passim</i></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Antigone, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Antoine, who staged some of Pierre Loti’s tales, anecdote of, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Arabia, words from the Turkish literature, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Arabs, scheme to exclude, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a> - <ul> - <li>minority in Mosul, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_326'>326</span>Arden, Forest of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Aristotle, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Armenian choir regret their old “good times” with Turks, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a> - <ul> - <li>orphans and Father Babadjanian <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>servants in harems, well treated and contented, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Armenians, “under Papal protection,” <a href='#Page_52'>52</a> - <ul> - <li>attempt of girls to escape, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - <li>in America, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - <li>hard to realise they are Christians, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> - <li>in Cilicia, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li>shawls, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> - <li>orphans, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li>turn to Russia, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li>feel “at home” in Turkey, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> - <li>want to be left alone, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>call Turkey their “home,” <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>have long filled their pockets out of the Turks, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li>at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Armistice, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Army of Occupation,” what it means, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Army of Nationalists, described, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a> - <ul> - <li>increased from 10,000 men to 400,000, with 250 big guns, etc., <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - <li>detailed statistics and character of Staff, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Asia Minor, quite safe, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a> - <ul> - <li>and Orthodox Church, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li>map to be seen everywhere in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Asiatics, not inferiors, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Asquith, Mr., and his son, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Astor, Lady, effect on other women, of her success in Parliament, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Athens, visited, 36 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>its churches, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><i>Athenæum</i>, on blonde Turks, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Augustus, his “comfortable” period, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Austerlitz, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Australian mothers, their gratitude for “the truth” about Turkey, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Aviation ground, reorganised, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a> - <ul> - <li>women aviators, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Azerbaijan, ambassador, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Babadjanian, in charge of Armenian orphans, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_327'>327</span>Bagdad, and her woman Professor, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Balfour, Lord, unfortunate scorn of Turkey, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Balkan War, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Barrère, M., <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Beaconsfield, Lord, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bedford College open to Turkish women medical students, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Békir Sami Bey, Ambassador from Angora and the Soviets, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Benedict XV., Pope, beautiful bust of, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a> - <ul> - <li>killed by strain of war, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Benghazi, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Berlin, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Beyrout, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bieberstein, Marshall von, German diplomat at Constantinople, and his “human” retriever, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bilidjik, station for “the express,” <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bismarck, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bitlis, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Black” Sultan, the, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Boghetti, who brought fruit, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bolshevism, compared with Moslem, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a> - <ul> - <li>has “no” influence in Turkey, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - <li>in spite of their magnificent Embassy, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - <li>and their genuine friendship, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - <li>at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Bosphorus, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Boston lady, her insulting lies about life in harem, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Briand, M., attack on Lloyd George, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a> - <ul> - <li>his famous Note, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - <li>his pleasant compliment, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>British Museum, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a> - <ul> - <li>naval officer at Smyrna, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li>propaganda, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Broussa, ancient capital of Turkey, fine hospital at, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a> - <ul> - <li>headmistress at College of, misses the “Christian” pupils, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - <li>and the comfort of its Hotel Brotte, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> - <li>unexpected visit to, 273 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>governor’s house burnt to cinders, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> - <li>town had been saved by a brigand, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> - <li>influx of Jews, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - <li>splendid bathing, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - <li>silk and tobacco factories, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li>its bazaar, its Mosque, and the letter-writer, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - <li>true atmosphere of Islam, 276 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_328'>328</span>a minaret and the famous Green Mosque, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>-<a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - <li>school-house and hospital, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Browne, Prof. E. G., hope that he will translate some of the Turkish books on Nationalism, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a> - <ul> - <li>his perfect knowledge of language, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>his praise of the author, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>quoted, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Brutus, his wife, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bryce, Lord, his opinion enough to crush all argument, a tale of Western arrogance, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bucharest, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Bulgarians, now friends again, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a> - <ul> - <li>more respected than Turks, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Burns, Mrs. John, anecdote of her dignity, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Byron, Lord, <i>his</i> Greece and his <i>Maid of Athens</i>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Byzantine Hippodrome in Constantinople, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Cadem Haïr, a maid, whose mistress buys her trousseau, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Caliphat, the sacred office, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Calthorpe, Admiral, and the Armistice <a href='#Page_193'>193</a> - <ul> - <li>hears tribute to English honour, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Calthorpe, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Camerad Areloff, Soviet Ambassador in Angora, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a> - <ul> - <li>no influence over Pasha, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Canada, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Capitulations, unjudicial, incompatible with national sovereignty, would be also injurious to foreigners, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a> - <ul> - <li>naturally “desired” by foreigners, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Caracol, the (or lock-up), of Smyrna, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Caravan, in charge of a donkey, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Carl Marx, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Carlyle on Mahomet, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Carpet-factory visited, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Catholic, what the word now means in Turkey, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a> - <ul> - <li>happy in Turkey, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Caucasian Confederation, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Cecil, Lord Robert; quaint thoughts of him in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a> - <ul> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_329'>329</span>impossible scheme to unite Anglicans and Greek Church, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> - <li>should see that “League” does not appear anti-Islam, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Cemetery, like a field of poppies, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ceretti, Monsignor, Paris Papal Nonce, memories of Pope as a young man, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Chamber of Deputies, the French, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Chapel of Bones” in Malta, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Cheik (once Professor of Arabic at Oxford) joins author in her journey, 69 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>a delightful travelling companion 71 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>his appearance described, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - <li>his generous kindness, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - <li>his philosophy, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - <li>talks on politics, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li>must educate his sons in Germany, not England, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Cheik, the; our “troubles” will make history, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a> - <ul> - <li>talk on religion and the Koran, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - <li>an excellent housewife, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - <li>claims that Turks are “clean,” <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Cheik-ul-Islam, called in to formally depose Khalif, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a> - <ul> - <li>compared to Abdul Hamid’s “Cheik,” <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Chemsi Effendi, schoolmaster in Salonika, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Cheriat laws are not run on a “cash basis,” <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Chester, Mr., of the U.S., and sky-scrapers, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Child Observer, the, or Boy Scout, from America, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a> - <ul> - <li>his “little kindness” to Ismet Pasha, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>China, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Chislehurst, where Kemal Pasha’s future wife was educated, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Chivalry, fine, but inconvenient sometimes, 56 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li class='c028'>Choate, Joseph, stern rebuke of Baron Marshall von Bieberstein, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Christ in Koran, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a> - <ul> - <li>venerated by Turks, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Christian minorities to be looked after by M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a> - <ul> - <li>must be loyal, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_330'>330</span>only Turks can “protect,” <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Christian prayer for Turkey and the Pasha, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Christians claim exemption from military service, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a> - <ul> - <li>why they have left Anatolia, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>happy at school with the Moslems, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li>to be exempt from military service, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li>have always lived in harmony with the Turks, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Churches, the; their proper function, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Cilicia, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Circassian tribes, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Clapham, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Clemenceau, Mons., bigger man than Napoleon, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a> - <ul> - <li>did not know of oil in Mosul, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Committee of Union and Progress, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a> - <ul> - <li>its mistakes, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Compton, Mr., administers relief in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Conceited ass” a leader of camels, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Constant, Mons., French Ambassador at Constantinople, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Constantine, of Greece, afraid of air-raids, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a> - <ul> - <li>tale of an “interview” with, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Constantinople, its avenue of Pierre Loti, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a> - <ul> - <li>mass meeting in the Byzantine Hippodrome, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li>its “dangerous” distractions, 29 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>fear of its being handed to Russia, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li>will not tolerate a “Greek” Patriarch, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> - <li>the Hippodrome made in Germany, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li>some impressions of its bazaar, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - <li>will it be capital of new State? <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li>Parliament seized by English, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> - <li>present position and prospects, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>reforms interrupted by the war, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> - <li>the newspaper called <i>Illeri</i>, or <i>Forwards</i>, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - <li>representative in Rome, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>ceremony of the Mouharrem, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_331'>331</span>its relics of Byzantium, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - <li>eager for tips, sharp contrast to the Anatolians, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li>fixed tariff required for tips and cabs, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li>compensations in luxury, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li>Armenian concert interrupted by dogs, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>street-feuds among dogs, who unite against “alien” Christians, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>still the sublime but no longer the Turkey of the Turks, which is Angora, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - <li>the holy man of the Tekka, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li>how correspondents “hash up” their news, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>Ottoman rule in, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li>cannot be neutral, and so intended for Russia, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - <li>government by committee would mean English rule, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li>must be given back to Turkey, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, 193. <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Conversation without words, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Cook, Messrs. Thomas, & Co., Egypt, Ltd., <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Crowday, Dame Rachel, at the League, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Cuba, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Curzon, Lord, knows the East, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a> - <ul> - <li>firm, but not insulting, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>views on the Assembly, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - <li>books on the East, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li>understands Ismet Pasha, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - <li>knows the subject, and his own mind; has full powers, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li>for him the right way is not the easy way, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - <li>compliments the author, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - <li>his duel with Ismet Pasha, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li>preparing his “part,” <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li>a pleasure to meet, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>unfortunate severity and stiffness of manner in public, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>really interested in Turks and understands them, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>might be more himself with Ismet Pasha, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>cannot ignore “public opinion” in the West, still based on our conception of old Turkey, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>said of Ismet Pasha, “I like the little man,” <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_332'>332</span>naturally told nothing, but asked questions, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li>guesses at his policy, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>hampered by association with the Coalition, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>pity he cannot deal more directly with Turks, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>his public speeches, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>refuses to recognise religious tolerance of Turks, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li>try to force on Turkey what they would not offer to Greeks or Bulgars, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>could deal with “public opinion” if he really wished to, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>always seems to distrust Turks, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Cyprus, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Czar Ferdinand, of Bulgaria, at Marienbad, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Damascus, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dames de Nazareth, the, at Beyrout, converted to school, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dane at Smyrna, his advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dardanelles, the, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Daudet, his hero and his goal, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Deacoville, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li class='c028'>de Brock, Admiral, stationed outside Smyrna, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li class='c028'>de C——, Mrs., widow of Minister in Teheran, 62 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>her advice, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li>account of fire in Smyrna, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Democracy may be “perfect” in the East, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dervishes, the “contemplative” and the “dancing”: fascination of their rhythms, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a> - <ul> - <li>their “progressive” representative, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Dersim, its aged Deputy, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Diab, Deputy for Dersim, ninety years old, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Diarbékir, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Diogenes, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Diplomacy must be taken up when you are twenty-one, not later, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Disraeli, grateful protector of Turks, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Divans, early Turkish poems, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Djavid Bey, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Djelaleddine Arif Bey, represents Angora in Rome, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a> - <ul> - <li>his escape to Angora, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li>strongly against Capitulations, and his admirable organisation of justice, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - <li>on Palestine, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_333'>333</span>Djellal Noury Bey, editor of the <i>Illeri</i>, and the National Pact, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>-<a href='#Page_231'>231</a> - <ul> - <li>used to edit a French paper, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Djémal Pasha, former Minister of Marines, as interpreter, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a> - <ul> - <li>the late, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Dogs lack the dignity of the East, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Drake, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Drummond, Sir Eric, asks why Turks suspect the League, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a> - <ul> - <li>wants Turkey to be on Council of League, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>“Drunken Englishman, The,” a popular game in Naples, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dublin, degree given to Turkish woman medical student, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dumas, and his interview with Gregory XVI., <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Durdje, a Circassian tribe, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dutch parson at Smyrna, his advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Dutchman who ought to write a book, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a> - <ul> - <li>trusts Turks, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li>tale of how Greeks respect Turkish army, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c003'>East, Sir Alfred, on painting an Eastern sunset, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - <li class='c028'>École Normale Supérieure de Sèvres, school attended by author, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Edison, a tale of his youth, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a> - <ul> - <li>on being deaf, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Edward VII. and Pierre Loti, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a> - <ul> - <li>at Marienbad, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Egypt, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Eliot, George, her words are part of the treasure England has for mankind, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ellison, Grace, her mission for peace, ix, x - <ul> - <li>her friendship with Pierre Loti, 17 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>early admiration of Gladstone, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li>first personal impressions of the Revolution, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - <li>her “Turkish sister,” <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>-<a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>at Stamboul, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li>her “An Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem,” <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li>risks of friendship for Turkey, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>invited to Angora, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - <li>some of her views on women, 29 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>her search for Union Jack, 34 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>her “defence” of England, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_334'>334</span>her impressions of Athens, 36 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>on the “modern” Greek financier, 36 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>and the Hellenes, 38 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>on imperialism for Greece, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li>on Smyrna, 43 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>her first impressions of devastations, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - <li>the first “spinster” to enter Turkey, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - <li>her battles with the flies, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - <li>distrust of financiers who exploit Turkey, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li>known as “niece” of Lloyd George, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li>refuses “control” from English chivalry, 54 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>could meet bullying better than kindness, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li>always “trusts” Turks, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li>entirely unsupported by Government or the Press, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> - <li>“childhood” beginnings of her keen interest in the East, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - <li>nearly blown up among ruins of Smyrna, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> - <li>actually ready to start for Angora, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - <li>farewell gifts and advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>-<a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li>advice and gifts from men of all nations at Smyrna, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>-<a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li>her “answer” to them all, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li>her delightful companion, the learned Cheik, 69 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>memories of England, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li>her eventful journey to Angora, 71 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>first impressions of Anatolia, 72 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>once more called an “American,” but objects, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> - <li>experience of life in trains, 77 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>a night in the open, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - <li>not a true Eastern, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - <li>a journey on foot, 85 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>addresses public meeting at Ouchak, 94 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>does not regret discomfort, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> - <li>reasons for visit to Angora explained, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li>must not have war, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li>demands “friendship” between Turkey and Great Britain, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - <li>strange ways of her Turkish lady’s-maid, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li>the terror of travelling in a luggage train, 104 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>refuses to stay in train <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li>once more taken for American, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_335'>335</span>her aims and work, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li>making her toilette in the train <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - <li>her “Turkish Woman’s Impressions of Europe,” <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li>disappointed at <i>first</i> impressions of Angora, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li>visits newspaper office and printing works, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li>her “guide” in Angora, 144 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>what to sketch in Angora, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li>once more “why” an American, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li>sort of “father confessor” to beloved new nation, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li>impressions of Assembly, 148 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>talks with Mustapha Kemal, 159 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>at the Pasha’s own house, 163 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>curiously like M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li>her interview with M. Kemal, 174 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>what it cost her to reach Angora, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> - <li>views and anecdotes of harem life, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>-<a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>views on “women,” <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - <li>makes friends with Ministers of the Assembly, 192 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>hopes they will be ready to learn from Europe, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - <li>renews her friendship with Halidé Hanoum, 205 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>messages to John Masefield and from Australian mothers, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li>her own “best way” of helping national Turkey, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li>still “more to do” in Angora, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - <li>visits a Lycée for Girls, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - <li>interesting Preface to her “Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem,” by Prof. Browne, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>proud pupil of École Normale Supérieure de Sèvres, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>organised meetings against help to Czarist Russia, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li>faith the same for all men, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li>indiscreet questions about the army, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - <li>final impressions of Angora, 226 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>her ideas of propaganda, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>she is half-East, half-West, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>prefers hard work to peroxide and henna, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>approves the National Pact, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>-<a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li>enjoys a picnic and a good dinner, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_336'>336</span>a poor shot, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li>nearly suffocated by fumes from mangal, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li>visits a wayside cabin, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - <li>studying the map, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>talk at a “supper-party” given by an Anglophobian, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>her Turkish sister again, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>impressions of Rome and the Pope, 239 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>describes the Pasha to the Pope, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - <li>visits Armenian orphans, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>on diplomats in Rome, 249 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>impressions of several Khalifs, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>tale of Alfred and the cakes, <i>and</i> of the Suffragettes to Prince Youssouff Zeddine, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>sees a celebration of the Mouharrem, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li>leaves Angora in the snow, 254 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>dangerous drives in a yaili, 254 <i>et seq.</i>, 259 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>a night “in the open” saved by American efficiency, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>-<a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>tale of mutual ignorance between English and Americans, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - <li>“falls in love” with an ass! <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> - <li>thinks, on the whole, Americans do more harm than good in Turkey, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>-<a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>judge a nation by its “gods” and learn “humanity” from Islam, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>attack on Puritanism towards women, whom all Turks honour and respect, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>Turks too resigned while our dollar-race drenches the world in blood, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>life in primitive times, 268 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>by all means let us play at schemes for rebuilding the world, but leave all the “old bits,” <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>Broussa, and the first chance of brushing one’s hair, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> - <li>tale of letter-writing for a <i>Poilu</i>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - <li>climbing a minaret, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> - <li>visiting Loti’s Green Mosque, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - <li>on board a cockle-shell of a boat, cheered by photograph of Gladys Cooper <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> - <li>her “harmless” mission to make England a little better understood, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_337'>337</span>impressions of Constantinople, 285 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>too much heart to be English, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> - <li>her Swan-Song of what she has proved women can do, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>-<a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - <li>defence of her “Disadvantages of Being a Woman,” <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - <li>only trusted at the Front, when men thought she was French, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - <li>more at home in French Embassies than English, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - <li>four Christmas Days in Turkey, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>-<a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>danger of being too cosmopolitan, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - <li>holds on to Faith, because War has taken away everything else, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>anger with jazz bands, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>first woman admitted in Tekké at Constantinople, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - <li>at Lausanne, 298 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>strange feeling of being in a neutral country, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>severe criticism of journalists at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>-<a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>helps to make Lord Curzon understand, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>haunted at Lausanne by memories of Angora, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>tries to divide time between Turks and British, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>obtains full explanation of Turkish policy at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>-<a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>views on the League of Nations, 313 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>could never obtain statistics about Greek atrocities, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li>hopes for the future, 318 to the end</li> - <li>over the Channel in an aeroplane, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li>held responsible in the States for Irish policy, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li>witty answers that turn away wrath, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li>congratulations and thanks to New Turkey, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>England, memories of, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li class='c028'>English, the; once welcomed, now distrusted, ix - <ul> - <li>idle policy in Turkey, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>hated by Greeks, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>will be soon welcomed again in Turkey, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li>ignorance of Young Turkey, of Angora, and of the Nationalists, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> - <li>humour unlike the French, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li>will now take bribes, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a></li> - <li>our policy will “come right,” <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_338'>338</span>seized Turkish parliament in Constantinople, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> - <li>will again be friends with Turks, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>generous welcome to Turks in England, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li>Taine’s judgment of them quoted, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li>the best real “education,” <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>stupid ignorance of the Khalif’s supreme duty towards Holy Relics, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li>shameful admiration for Russia of the Czars, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li>close a “Nationalist” club, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li>whole “Press” is anti-Islam, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li>must lead attitude of the world towards Turkey, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> - <li>why should we interfere? 263 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>much to learn from the East in pity and humanity, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>cruel Puritanism followed by bloodshed in race for dollars, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>their injustice to Turks entirely due to their being misled by Greek and Armenian dragomen, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> - <li>witty story to illustrate our national habit of not listening, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - <li>public opinion still based on conception of “old” Turkey, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>our Empire founded on trust, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>people in vain seek for confidence from the Government, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>captured Mosul by violating Armistice, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li>need friendship of Turks, as Turks need English friendship, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>should have been above pick-pocketing habit of confiscating enemy property, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>can only regain prestige by honest peace, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>“Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem, An,” by Grace Ellison, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a> - <ul> - <li>appreciation by Prof. Browne, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Envichéir, and its primitive inn, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Enver Pasha, evil influence, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Erki-Chéir, where General Trécoupis was in captivity, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a> - <ul> - <li>picturesque café, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li>flourishing town, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li>munition-making replaced art, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_339'>339</span>Europe, will she ever realise? <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Faith, the same for all men, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Falkenhayn, General, whose methods disgusted M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Falstaff, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Fanar to be separated from Orthodox Church, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Fatma, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ferid Bey, Mme.; <i>see</i> “Mufidé Hanoum”</li> - <li class='c028'>Feszi Bey, Minister of Public Works, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a> - <ul> - <li>author’s host at Angora, 137 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>his unfailing courtesy, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>-<a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li>appearance and business energy, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> - <li>alarmed at idea of receiving an Englishwoman, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li>his private business, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - <li>delight in map, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Fethi Bey, Minister of the Interior and Ambassador from Angora; his praise of England, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a> - <ul> - <li>his “philosophy,” <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - <li>memories of London, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - <li>a Minister at thirty-two, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li>his life and character, well known in England, Minister of Interior, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>-<a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - <li>claims Jerusalem for the Turks, who honour Christ, rather than for Jews, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> - <li>laughs at our English pride of family, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li>humiliated in London by hearing the harem life misrepresented, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Flies in Athens, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a> - <ul> - <li>have real “freedom” in Turkey, 47 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>the end of, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>France, why she gave up Cilicia, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a> - <ul> - <li>the Treaty with, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li>value of her political support, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - <li>not the Power to which Turkey looks for help, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li>ready to give a criminal, <i>or</i> a genius, his chance, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - <li>denies that she has taken a penny from Turks, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li><i>See also</i> <a href='#French'>“French”</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Frank Street in Smyrna, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Franklin-Bouillon, M., advises friendship with England, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a> - <ul> - <li>says he could have made peace at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_340'>340</span>Freedom of the Straits must be <i>real</i> freedom, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>-<a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li class='c028'><a id='French'></a>French influence in the Near East, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a> - <ul> - <li>unsuspicious, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>their interests in Syria, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - <li>Revolution studied by M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li>their influence has played “too large a part” in Turkey, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li>method of typhoid-inoculation, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - <li>losing the enthusiasm of the Turks, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>violated Armistice in Cilicia, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Frenchman at Smyrna, his advice, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Friendship between Turkey and Great Britain essential to both, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Fouzouli, earliest writer of love-poetry in Turkish, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Front, at the, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Gabriel Effendi Nouradunghian, an Armenian, chosen by Turks as Minister of Foreign Affairs, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ghazal, that is, a love song, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Gallipoli, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Gasparri Cardinal; his views on Turkey, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a> - <ul> - <li>his character, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Geneva and the League, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a> - <ul> - <li>cathedral locked, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Genoa, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li class='c028'>George V., the “Moslem” King, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Georgian Circassian slaves, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Georgians at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Gerbervilliers, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Gentleman: Turkish ambition to be one, ix, x</li> - <li class='c028'>Germans have no influence, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a> - <ul> - <li>but are conciliating Turks in Germany, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - <li>education vitiated by punishments, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>a trench, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li>Soviets, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Germany began to tamper with Nationalist independence and was thrown off, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Gladstone, reaction against influence of, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a> - <ul> - <li>Lady, and the Lyceum Club League Circle, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Gladys Cooper, her photograph in a ship’s cabin, Queen of Beauty among the ladies of the Levant, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Goethe quoted, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_341'>341</span>Gordon, General, author’s father’s praise of, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Goschen, Sir Edward, and Edward VII., <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Grand National Assembly, the parliament of Nationalist Turkey, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a> - <ul> - <li>description of building and position, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li>the band in gardens of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - <li>form of proceedings, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>-<a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> - <li>evidence of democracy, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li>different personalities, 155 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>predominance of military uniforms, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - <li>rather “difficult” variety of culture among Deputies, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li>false reports at Lausanne of its corruption, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li>is <i>really</i> national, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li>inspires confidence, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> - <li>one chamber the ideal form of government, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - <li>opposition at present has little weight, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li>its attitude explained by M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - <li>a Cabinet of young men, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li>its three great men, 192 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>Cabinet and Prime Minister independent, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li>Ministers are Heads of Departments, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li>real authority rests with the whole Assembly, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li>Lord Curzon does not think system would work for a stable State, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - <li>difference in knowledge and culture between Deputies, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - <li>Cabinet and less-known Ministers, 198 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>difficulties in the future foreseen, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - <li>has achieved permanent success, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - <li>the restaurant provided by a professor, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - <li>a Western atmosphere, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>deserves congratulations from the Mother of Parliaments, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Grand Tchelebi, progressive representative of Dancing Dervishes, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Great Britain breaks her faith with Turkey, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a> - <ul> - <li>bitterness against, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Greater Greece, greater than Greeks can sustain, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_342'>342</span>Greek Patriarch supported by Sultans, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Greek Pope, the, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Greek, moneylenders, 36 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>the business men of Turkey, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li>atrocities in Smyrna, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a></li> - <li>to enslave Turks, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li>hate Lloyd George, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>barbarism in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li>ungrateful conduct of refugees, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li>anecdote of cruelty, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li>other examples, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li>Greeks in America, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - <li>devastations worse than the “German,” <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - <li>burning of trains, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> - <li>their dream of Empire, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li>largely victims of Big Powers, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li>we cannot forget their atrocities, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li>report of them by Halidé Hanoum, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li>Church, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - <li>further evidence of devastations on return journey, danger of American relief worker, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - <li>Ottoman Greeks weep when their compatriots burn Broussa, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> - <li>run away from a field of poppies, which they mistake for Turkish soldiers, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - <li>have long filled their pockets out of the Turks, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li>have always misled the English about the Nationalists, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> - <li>their “victims” in hospital, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> - <li>more respected by the Powers than the Turks, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>servants in Turkish harems, well treated and contented, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>statements about, by an Italian lady at Broussa, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li>foolish vision of a place on the Bosphorus, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Green Mosque at Broussa made famous by Pierre Loti, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Gregory XVI. interviewed by Dumas, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Guests, how they should “direct” their hosts in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Gunhani, where railway line is cut, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a> - <ul> - <li>wonderful railway bridge, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c003'>Hadji Baïram, a “quarter” of Angora, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a> - <ul> - <li>its mosque, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_343'>343</span>Hague, Second Conference, a dramatic moment, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li class='c028'>HAÏDAR Bey from Vannes, the “old brigand” who buys rugs and carpets for Colonel Mougin, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a> - <ul> - <li>sworn never to speak to Englishman, but arranges supper-party for author, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Hakki Pasha, Grand Vizier, quoted, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Halidé Edib Hanoum, one of the finest women in Turkey, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a> - <ul> - <li>the Jeanne d’Arc of Turkey, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li>never unveils her hair, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - <li>wanted in “Assembly,” <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li>quoted, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - <li>character, life, and opinions, 205 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>respected everywhere, wanted in the Assembly, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>now an enemy to England but ready to love us again, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li>manner and appearance, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li>translates from the American, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li>her work and views on freedom for women, 209 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>Chief Inspector of Schools, an organiser of education programme, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li>retains the “veil” for its “Nationalist” significance, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>has prepared report of Greek devastations, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li>pessimistic about Conference, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li>peace but <i>not</i> dishonour, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li>Jeanne d’Arc of Turkey, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li>the greatest woman of the “New” literature, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li>her remarkable “Nouveau Touran,” <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li>member of the “Turc Odjagui,” <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li>should have been invited to report on harems, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Hamdoullah Soubhi Bey, eloquent speaker for women, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a> - <ul> - <li>character and opinions, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>eloquent against harem, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>not lenient to Greeks, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>can trace Turkish civilisation over the world, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>simple tastes, and not superstitious, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - <li>founder of the “Turc Odjagui,” <i>q.v.</i>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Hamid Bey, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_344'>344</span><i>Hamidieh</i>, the, in the Balkan War, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hamilton, Lady, <i>did</i> influence politics, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Harem, misunderstood, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a> - <ul> - <li>provides “real” safety, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li>discussed with M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>-<a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li>descriptions and anecdotes, his own choice, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>-<a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>not invented by Prophet, introduced in conquest of Byzantium, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>investigated by the League, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>formerly described by nursery governesses, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>Christian servants well treated and contented, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>a tabloid reply to criticism, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Harrington, General; his views on Turkey and Lausanne, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a> - <ul> - <li>his fine work at Moudania, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - <li>praise of Refet Pasha, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li>and other Turks, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Hassan Fehmi Bey, Minister of Finance, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hedjaz, sacred city, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Helen of Troy, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Henderson, Arthur, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Henderson, Neville, British Chargé d’Affaires at Constantinople, popular in Turkey, though not pro-Turk, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Herbert, Colonel Aubrey, authority on Near East, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hikmet Bey, Captain, aide-de-camp to the French colonel, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hindenberg, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hodja, living in oak tree, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hodjas, their reactionary influence, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a> - <ul> - <li>their powers limited, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li>responsible for Turkey’s long sleep, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - <li>misinterpret Koran, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Homer, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Horses, agreeable neighbours, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hospitals, greatly advanced in recent years, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - <li class='c028'>House, Colonel; why he chose Geneva for seat of the League <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Hussein Djahid, brilliant journalist, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a> - <ul> - <li>edits <i>Tanine</i>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li>dances to warm his feet, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Hussein Raghib Bey, Prof., Chargé d’Affaires in Paris; his account of Nationalist literary revival, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>-<a href='#Page_223'>223</a> - <ul> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_345'>345</span>his “Story of Nationalism,” directed against any “party” policy, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li>a true internationalist, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li>not happy in Europe, away from Angora, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Hygiene needed in Anatolia <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Hymn of Independence,” sung by all Moslems, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Idol that was a fountain, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Illeri</i> (or Forwards), a newspaper in Constantinople, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Imbrie, American commercial attaché, to protect “concessions” and organise relief, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a> - <ul> - <li>lives in railway salon, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Imperial Ottoman Bank now the Bank of Turkey, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a> - <ul> - <li>a bureau of general information, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>the Governor-General of, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>Italian director, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Incivility, does not “pay” in diplomacy, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li class='c028'>India, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, 59 <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - <li class='c028'>In-Enus, some impressions of the battle, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li class='c028'>International Red Cross, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Iron Duke</i>, H.M.S., outside Smyrna, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Islam, word means obedience, the reverse of Bolshevism, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ispahan, roses of, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Israel has its place in Islam, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ismet Pasha; his duel with Lord Curzon, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a> - <ul> - <li>understands Lord Curzon, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - <li>public taught to laugh at his pleasantries, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li>“official” treatment from Lord Curzon, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>depressed by fears he has not done enough for Turkey, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li>dread of war, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li>a soldier, sent to fight a Bismarck, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li>does he, or his Turkish confrères, really trust Lord Curzon, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>left Constantinople with nothing, returned the head of the Army, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>no chance of a fair fight with mature British diplomats, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li>makes dangerous concession about Greek Patriarch, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li>works into night, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_346'>346</span>explains his point of view, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>-<a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>advantages of being deaf for diplomacy, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li>doing his best for peace, but cannot give up the Pact, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>all agreements with us are held up as “great concessions,” <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>we are offered “one room in our own house,” <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>always met with distrust, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>chief obstacles to peace: Mosul, finance, judicial capitulations, reparations, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>we cannot betray Anatolia, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>toast of the British Empire and King George, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>-<a href='#Page_300'>300</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Italy, a bad example, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Italian, a wise proverb, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a> - <ul> - <li>guide to Miss Ellison in Athens 36 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>his inborn courtesy, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - <li>like a Greek Patrician, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li>sings “La Tosca,” <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li>the first at Smyrna; his advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li>the second at Smyrna; his advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li>the third at Smyrna; his advice, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Izzet Pasha; his Cabinet, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Jaffa, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Jane Clegg,” acted by Sybil Thorndike, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Japan, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Jeanne d’Arc, story from her life, 180 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li class='c028'>Jerusalem held sacred by Turks, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Jews eager to replace Greeks, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a> - <ul> - <li>beginning to “make their profit” out of simple Turks, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Johnson, Robert Underwood, formerly American Ambassador at Rome, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Judea, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Julius Cæsar, search for humour in, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a> - <ul> - <li>compared to M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c003'>Kada-Keuey, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Kadinlar Dunyassi</i>, a paper for women, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kaiser, the, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kara-Kuey, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kara Kheuz, <i>i.e.</i>, Punch-and-Judy show, at a wedding, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_347'>347</span>Karahissar, centre of opium trade, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kassaba, terrible condition of, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kemallidine Pasha, General, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a> - <ul> - <li>learns the difference between an English lady and an English “temporary gentleman,” <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Kemal Pasha, Mustapha; the victory of his “rebels,” <a href='#Page_27'>27</a> - <ul> - <li>when he “lifts his little finger,” <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>not a “rebel,” <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li>seeks to free Islam from Byzantine heresies, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li>great importance of his choosing the right type of wife, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li>takes over house from Constantine, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li>an American interviewer says he smokes “Players,” <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li>women must take their place in life, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li>wisdom to prohibit alcohol, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - <li>inspired people with almost superstitious confidence, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> - <li>and “the miracle happened,” <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - <li>his “dancing” car, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> - <li>on French Revolution, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li>great civil organiser, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> - <li>requires no “guard,” <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> - <li>his true greatness discussed, 159 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>inspired by his mother’s suffering, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a></li> - <li>difficulties with the Churches, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a></li> - <li>lenient towards Greeks, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li>hard-working and simple home-life, 161 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>compared to Julius Cæsar, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li>handsome and eloquent, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li>his home, his mother, his opinions, and his life, 163 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>would be at home in any drawing-room, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a></li> - <li>views on Napoleon, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - <li>secure in his people’s admiration, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - <li>disapproves of word “Kemalist” for a “national” movement, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - <li>not influenced by Bolshevists, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> - <li>more balanced than some of the Deputies, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> - <li>personality can dominate Assembly, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li>might be author’s brother <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li>visit to peasants, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - <li>not easy to understand, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - <li>an interview with, 174 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>the “Assembly” is not one man, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_348'>348</span>ultimate confidence in England, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>hopes that the Conference will bring peace, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a></li> - <li>sympathy with all Christians, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>views of Constantinople and on freedom of the Straits, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>must have “national” frontiers, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>attitude towards minorities, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li>must refuse “privileged” on capitulations, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li>not only soldier, but statesman, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>some account of his mother, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> - <li>facts of his life, 180 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>disgusted by brutal methods of General Falkenhayn, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li>appointed Inspector of the East or High Functionary of the Eastern Villayets, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li>opinions and desire for reform of the harem, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li>his own choice of a wife, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-<a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>advocate of “sensible” dress for men and women, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li>wedding-presents to his bride, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>educated in Rochester, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>will sweep away harem and other Byzantine heresies, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>great faith in youth, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li>his task will get harder as country settles to reconstruction, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - <li>two hundred years ahead of some of his own Ministers, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - <li>a “tribute” applied from an ancient inscription, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>supports the “Turc Odjagui,” <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li>visits the “Mosque,” with other Deputies, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li>against Byzantian heresies, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>concerned for Christian minorities, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>correspondence with the Pope, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - <li>regrets division between Christian Churches, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - <li>maintains that Turks have <i>always</i> practised religious tolerance, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - <li>a real democrat in practice, a reformer loyal to Islam; faith in full liberty and in his people, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - <li>driven to arms by Greek’s entry of Smyrna, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_349'>349</span>reference to, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Kerr, Philip, private secretary to Lloyd George, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Khadidja, poetess and public singer <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Khalif, the present, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a> - <ul> - <li>must guard the relics, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li>hereditary; the Pope, elected, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li>impressions of several Khalifs, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Khandeke, a Circassian tribe, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kiamil Pasha, Grand Vizier to Abdul Hamid, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a> - <ul> - <li>and his daughter, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>-<a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>his daughter spoken of as my Turkish sister, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> - <li>visits bazaar, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - <li>her sister-in-law at Pera, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>teased for growing more advanced but preferring the old ways, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Kiazim Pasha, Minister of National Defence; his character, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kipling, Rudyard, his cat, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Konia, chief city of Dancing Dervishes, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Koran, “an accursed book?” <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, - <ul> - <li>its precepts, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li>written in Persian, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li>misinterpreted by Hodjas, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Krassine M., told of Turkish views on Soviet Government, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kutahia, a dinner-service from, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kurd, population of Mosul, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Kurdistan, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Lady of Paradise, Mahomet’s daughter, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Lamartine, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Lasz, the, the President’s guard, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Latifée Hanoum, the Pasha’s future wife, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a> - <ul> - <li>educated at Chislehurst, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Lausanne, authorities there know nothing of life in Angora, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a> - <ul> - <li>still talk of Turkey that is dead, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a></li> - <li>what can Nationalists do there, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li>told the Assembly was corrupt, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li>ignorance, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> - <li>views of the Delegates, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>results of Conference, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>scorn for patriotism of the Turks, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_350'>350</span>duel between Lord Curzon and Ismet Pasha, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - <li>Halidé Hanoum elected Delegate, but too ill to go, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li>receives Halidé Hanoum’s report of Greek atrocities, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - <li>English Delegates’ foolish scorn of the Kurd, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>Conference must produce peace, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - <li>both sides adopt the method of not listening, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - <li>will they ever listen to a woman? <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - <li>under the flags of France, Turkey, and Japan, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>a gay and busy scene, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - <li>hotel a babel from folk-songs of Anatolia to fox-trots and cocktails, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li>a host of “new” nationalities, all sighing for the (political) moon, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li>French Delegate bullied to bed, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li>first word of a “new” and independent Turkey, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a> - <ul> - <li>can they ever understand? <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li>always called Turkey to order, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>politics all day, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>luxury for the Press, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>weakness of journalists, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>-<a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li>more work done than at Genoa, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>fight out details and ignore important questions, and the Turkish point of view, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li>wasteful methods of official diplomacy, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>the real problem of Lausanne, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li>too many Commissions, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>haunted by memories of Angora, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - <li>all watch Venizelos, the bird of ill-omen, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>the first woman diplomatist, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>British are not so pro-Russian as they have to appear, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li>talks about the Greek Patriarch, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li>Conference will not see what National Pact means to Turkey, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>everyone meets Turks with distrust, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>chief obstacles to peace: Mosul, finance, judicial capitulations, reparations, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>England and Turkey need each other, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_351'>351</span>Lausanne has <i>not</i> failed, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>may she learn from mistakes of Versailles, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Law, Mr. Bonar, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c028'>League of Nations must be impartial and international, 313 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>unfortunately appears to be anti-Islam, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a></li> - <li>by allowing Greeks to enter Smyrna it drove M. Kemal to arms, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>should consider the feelings of all nations, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>report on harems entrusted to Roumanian poetess, not to Halidé Hanoum, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>listened to back-stair propaganda of American relief workers, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>its own Press department distrusts Greek and Armenian propaganda, but sympathises with the Turk, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>can only help Christians by putting a stop to pro-Christian propaganda, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li>what a really international League could do for Turkey, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - <li>the only way is to put Turkey on Council of League, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Lebouvier, M., Dutch <i>pasteur</i>, reports Greek atrocities, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Lenin, theories opposed to the Turkish, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Life, a story from, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Literary Digest</i> quoted, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Lloyd George against Turks, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a> - <ul> - <li>his “indiscretions” towards Ambassadors for Angora, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li>what Turkey owes to him, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - <li>and “our dear Christian brethren,” <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - <li>hated by Greeks, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li>confused with King George, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li>is he not a democrat? <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li>his puzzling inconsistency, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li>his policy not the policy of English people, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li>and <i>Les Misérables</i>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li>why does this “democrat” hate Turks, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> - <li>the fallen angel, or modern Nero, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a></li> - <li>says you must speak to Turks “with guns,” <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> - <li>“that” Lloyd George, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_352'>352</span>super-bogeyman of the Near East, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>badly advised, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - <li>his insults to Turkey not taken seriously, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Loti, Pierre, his dream and interpretation of Turkey, 17 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>his stories, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li>his Melek and Zeyneb, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>his “Désenchantés,” <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>steamer so-called, 17 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>sympathy of her captain, 17 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>and the Bazaar at Smyrna, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li>his Green Mosque, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Lowther, Sir G., Ambassador at Constantinople, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ludendorff, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Luggage-train, a painful journey, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Lycée for Girls described, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - <li class='c003'>MacClure, Mr., tells journalists what to say, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>-<a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mahmoud Bey, smiling aide-de-camp of M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mahmoud Chefket Pasha, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mahmoud Essad Bey, Minister of Economics, studied in Switzerland, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mahmoud II., <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mahomet, Prophet of Islam, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a> - <ul> - <li>and his daughter the “Lady of Paradise,” <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>a story with a meaning, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - <li><i>See</i> <a href='#ProphetofIslam'>“Prophet of Islam”</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Mohammed V., anecdote of, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mallet, Sir Louis, Ambassador at Stamboul, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Malta, the home of exiles from Turkey, 29 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>as a prison, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li>Nationalism for (?), <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li>Turks arrested and sent to, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - <li>anecdotes of its shopkeepers, 34 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>means patriot, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>-<a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><i>Manchester Guardian</i>, unsound on Turkey, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mangal, or charcoal, stove; its dangers and discomforts, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Manissa, first halt in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Marie, author’s “Catholic” maid in Angora; her ideas about hot bottles, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Marienbad, tales of Royalty at, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_353'>353</span>Marriage and brides in Turkey, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>-<a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mary, Princess, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Masefield, John, memories of, at the Front, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mecca, visited by “Black” Sultan, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a> - <ul> - <li><i>not</i> honoured by Christians, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Mehmet Emin Bey, of Adalia, leading poet of the Nationalists, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Melek, heroine of Pierre Loti, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, 22 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li class='c028'>Melle Stanciof, first woman diplomatist, very able, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mentone, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Merry de Val, Cardinal, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mesopotamia, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Metaxatis, Monseigneur, a Cretan, once Metropolitan of Constantinople, as Metelios IV., <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Metelios IV., <i>see</i> “Metaxatis”</li> - <li class='c028'>Midhat, whose son was the pioneer parliament-maker, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Michelet, his “little Assembly,” <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Milne, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Minaret, ascent of and impressions produced, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Minorities can only secure protection by loyalty, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Minorities Committee; their Norwegian head says Asiatics will never become Europeans, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Missionaries and treacherous propaganda, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mihrinour and her husband in Rome, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Moudania, the most depressing town in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a> - <ul> - <li>the historic house in which Peace was signed, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Monsignor X. conducts author to Vatican, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mont Pegasus, ascent of, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Morgenthau, Mr., an American who wants to make an ideal republic <i>á la</i> Tammany on the Bosphorus, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a> - <ul> - <li>says States are not disposed to lend, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><i>Morning Post</i> quoted on interview with M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Moscow plans against India, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mosul, its future, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a> - <ul> - <li>never captured by British, but handed to them by the French, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li>population, Kurd and Turkish, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_354'>354</span>admitted by Sykes-Picot agreement, was not part of Mesopotamia, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>“Mother in the Home, The,” an American tale translated by Halidé Hanoum, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mouche, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Moudania Conference, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mouedine Pasha, General, who “taught” M. Kemal and Fethi Bey, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a> - <ul> - <li>his charming sons, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - <li>start dangerous race between two yailis, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Mougin, Colonel, earlier called the “French colonel”; his gallantry (?), <a href='#Page_112'>112</a> - <ul> - <li>friendship with, 114 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>gives an excellent dinner on the train, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li>his role in Angora, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li>his car very welcome, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li>his hospitality in Angora, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li>his Embassy, once the Station Hotel, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> - <li>persists in doubt, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li>praise of Kemal’s army, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - <li>represents French interests with skill and tact, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li>his awkward questions at dinner, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li>always “informs” his Government, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li>fears of responsibility for author’s life, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li>says only Turks can really protect Christian minorities, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>high praise of Refet Pasha, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Mouharrem, Persian ceremonial in memory of the martyr, Hussein, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mudros, the Armistice, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a> - <ul> - <li>treachery of, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Mufidé Hanoum (Mme. Ferid Bey) second great woman-writer of “New” literature, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Mussolini, M., visits Lausanne, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Naim Bey, courteous hotel-keeper in Smyrna, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a> - <ul> - <li>his pity for “poor Americans,” <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li>defies “law” for his guests, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - <li>guests from all countries, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Namik Kemal Bey, Turkish writer for the people, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a> - <ul> - <li>died in exile for his ideals, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_355'>355</span>Napoleon and M. Kemal, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nasreddin Hodja, Turkish wit, his stories from, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> - <li class='c028'>National Pact discussed, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>-<a href='#Page_231'>231</a> - <ul> - <li>of capitulations, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - <li>a religion, copies in every home, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Nationalist appeal for the first time adopted by Moslems, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nationalist Literary Revival, brief history of, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>-<a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nationalist Turkey, ix., <a href='#Page_19'>19</a> - <ul> - <li>result of Lloyd George’s policy, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - <li>misunderstood by British official, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - <li>a Nationalist meeting at Ouchak, 95 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>the Pact contains nothing unreasonable, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - <li>Nationalism, a religion, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li>fight for freedom single-handed, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li>what Nationalism means, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - <li>compared to Christianity, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> - <li>National Pact, a new “decalogue,” <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - <li>natural enthusiasm for new Turkey facing reconstruction, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - <li>not the cat’s-paw of Bolshevism, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>will not allow herself to be used against British influence in India, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li>the “Constitution” proclaimed, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li>founders need no advice from us, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> - <li>does not look to France for help, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li>the pioneer worker, Halidé Hanoum, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li>much literature has been already written about, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>brief history of Nationalist Literary Revival, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>-<a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> - <li>“Story of Nationalism,” by Hussein Raghib, how it grew out of the <i>Turc Odjagui</i>, a club founded to protest against “Union and Progress,” <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li>what was a “party” movement made National, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li>the army described, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - <li>grows from 10,000 men to 400,000 men with 450 big guns, etc., <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - <li>actual statistics and character of staff, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a></li> - <li>unwisely too proud to use propaganda, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>-<a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>discussion of the National Pact, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>-<a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_356'>356</span>Nationalism, a religion, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - <li>the “Hymn of Independence,” <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>will protect “loyal” minorities, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>wants peace, not surrender, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>her Constitution will <i>not</i> “imitate” from England, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li>Turks beginning to be <i>themselves</i>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - <li>still approached as we used to approach Abdul Hamid’s Turks, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>no offence to British prestige in the National Pact, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - <li>their policy at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>-<a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>cannot be curbed by neutral zones, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li>must have honest peace, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li>not dead, but born again, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li><i>See also</i> <a href='#Turks'>“Turks”</a>, <a href='#Turkey'>“Turkey,”</a> <a href='#YoungTurks'>“Young Turks”</a>,”</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Nansen, Dr., always talking of “Greek” suffering, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Naval man of the best type, but starched, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a> - <ul> - <li>his refusal to give up the flag, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - <li>off guard, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Nazoum, Dr., head of Army Medical Service; his hospitals, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nelson, call to “Duty,” <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Neutrality, cannot satisfy a country’s pride, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a> - <ul> - <li>though in Switzerland it has “made history,” <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>New York, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a> - <ul> - <li>near hell, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li>and sky-scrapers, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Nicholson, Mr. Harold, British Delegate, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nightingale, Florence, part of the treasures England has for mankind, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nihat Réchad, Dr., talk with his sister, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nonconformity, foe of the Turks, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Noury, Mme., who cooks the dinner, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Nourredine Pasha, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a> - <ul> - <li>his father-in-law, the Dervish, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - <li>does <i>not</i> hate England, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>“Nouveau Touron,” by Halidé Hanoum, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Oeillet supplies cigarettes, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Officer; the Turkish officer detailed to conduct author to Angora, 71 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_357'>357</span>his helpfulness, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Official dignity, its dangers in dealing with Young Turkey, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Official ignorance of Nationalist Turks, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a> - <ul> - <li>care for English women, 54 <i>et seq.</i></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Old maids, none in Turkey, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Oriental landscapes, glorious colours, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a> - <ul> - <li>music, its peculiar charm, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - <li>by a Christian choir, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Orientals, broad-minded, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a> - <ul> - <li>the most criminal respect their mothers, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - <li>our brothers, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Osman, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a> - <ul> - <li>his tomb, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Osman Noury Bey, of the “Ottoman Bank,” <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Osman Nyzami Pasha represents Constantinople in Rome, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a> - <ul> - <li>horror expressed at the Persian Mouharrem, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> - <li>claim for Turkey to be judged by the gods she has created; finer than the Olympians or the Puritan Deity, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Osmanli, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ottoman “Christian” property freed from sequestration, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ottoman Commission, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ottoman Empire, large slices relinquished, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ottoman Government, the old corrupt, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ottoman Greeks, Greece has no room for, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ottoman Society, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ouchak, hospitality of the governor, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a> - <ul> - <li>a public meeting at, 94 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Oxford, on Greece <a href='#Page_41'>41</a> - <ul> - <li>forgets the immorality of Olympus, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c003'>Palestine, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Pan-Islam rising to be feared, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Papas Eftim Effendi; his proposal about the Orthodox Church, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Paris, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Parliaments before the Assembly, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Parthenon, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Patriarch, the Greek; his disloyalty, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a> - <ul> - <li>discussed at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_358'>358</span>Pellé, General and Madame, invited author to Christmas lunch, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Pera always disliked by author; always feels someone is going to stab her in the back, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a> - <ul> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Pericles, boast for his own epitaph, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Peroxide and henna, less effective than a little hard work, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Persia, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Persian Ambassador, now left, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Persian literature, its influence on the Turkish, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Persians, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Pierre Loti</i>, the steamer, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Pirus, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-<a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Pius X., portrait of, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a> - <ul> - <li>killed by strain of war, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Pius XI., Pope, audience with, 239 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>friendship for Anatolia, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> - <li>a father’s heart on Peter’s throne, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li>debt to Turkey for tolerance and responsibility towards Christian peoples, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - <li>interested in personality of the Pasha, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> - <li>speaks many languages, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> - <li>his robes and appearance, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> - <li>his deep yearning for peace, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - <li>messages to Christians, and Turks in Anatolia, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Plato’s Republic and Bolshevism, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Poincaré, M., visits Lausanne, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Pompeii, and how its houses were warmed, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Pope, elected; the Khalif, hereditary, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Power of the Press, a farce, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Price, Ward, will not ask for interview, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Prince Said Halim, late Grand Vizier, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - <li class='c028'><a id='ProphetofIslam'></a>Prophet of Islam, the; his wedding-presents to his bride, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Prussianism in England, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Rauf Bey, Prime Minister without portfolio, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a> - <ul> - <li>his life, character, and opinions, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>-<a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li>admired by England, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li>reforms in education, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li>says Turkey wants to please Christians, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Réchad, Dr., on evening-dress, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_359'>359</span>Red Cross should work with Red Crescent, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Red” Sultan, the, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Refet Pasha, well-deserved praise from General Harrington, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>-<a href='#Page_288'>288</a> - <ul> - <li>also from Colonel Mougin, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li>speaks warmly of Colonel and Mrs. Samson, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li>did much pioneer work, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a></li> - <li>praise of English, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li>soldiers do <i>not</i> love war, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li>praise of the Khalif, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - <li>commanding in the south, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Regent’s Park, animals in, are fed like journalists, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Religion, a living force in the East, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Reparations, only asking four milliard gold francs, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Revolution, the, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Rhadyah, woman traveller and lecturer, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Rhodes, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Rhondda Valley compared with Angora, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Riza Nour, not really insolent, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a> - <ul> - <li>no wonder he is impatient with wasteful methods of official diplomacy, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Rochefort and Pierre Loti, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Rochester, where author went to school, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Roget, his “Thesaurus” and a harem, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Rose in the Bud,” tune to which a Turkish poem “goes perfectly,” <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Rosebery, Lord, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Roufy Bey, Mme., at the hospital in Broussa, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Roumanian poetess sent to report on harems, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Roumelia, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Ruchène Echref, Mme., and her husband, neighbours of M. Kemal, tell of his future wife, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Russia must not be sacrificed? <a href='#Page_24'>24</a> - <ul> - <li>the destitute aristocracy, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Russian Christians, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Sakharia, extreme point reached by Greeks, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a> - <ul> - <li>and Austerlitz, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - <li>fifteen days’ Battle of, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Salihli, town of four houses, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Salonika is <i>not</i> the gate of Christendom, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Samsoun, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_360'>360</span>San Remo, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sarojini Naidu, a poem by, quoted in full, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Savoy, the, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Schinassi Effendi studies culture in France, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a> - <ul> - <li>re-models Turkish language, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Scotch calmness hides feeling, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sea of Marmora, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sefa Bey, Minister of Education, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Seldjoucide, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Selim, first keeper of the Holy Relics, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Senegal</i>, H.M.S., blown to pieces by mine, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Senegali, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sèvres, Treaty of, and why Turkey signed, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a> - <ul> - <li>French repentance, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Seyed Hussein of the Khaliphat Delegation insolently snubbed by quotation from Lord Bryce, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Shakespeare, his humour, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a> - <ul> - <li>quoted, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Silver threads for good luck, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sloane Square Station, a meeting outside, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Smyrna, crime of sending Greeks to, <a href='#Page_x'>x</a> - <ul> - <li>occupied, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li>impressions of, 43 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>its hotels, 46 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>no longer the alien’s paradise, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li>the quay, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> - <li>among the ruins of, 60 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>remains of Frank Street, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li>details of fire, 62 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>anecdote of the Custom House, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - <li>last words from, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>-<a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li>certainly <i>not</i> burnt by Turks, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - <li>has charm of Sodom and Gomorrah, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Socrates, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sœur Julie, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sofia, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sophocles, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sons of Palestine at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li class='c028'>South American, the, one of guests at hotel in Smyrna, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, - <ul> - <li>final advice and effort, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Soviet helpful to Turkey, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a> - <ul> - <li>Embassy and Camerad Areloff, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Spaniard at Smyrna; his advice, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_361'>361</span>Spartelli Library in Smyrna, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li class='c028'>St. Sophia, Church of, cannot be restored to any <i>one</i> sect of Christians, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Stamboul, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Stan-Harding, Mrs., on the “best people” in Russia, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Stars and Stripes, not the Union Jack, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Steeg, M. Louis, says the author “will never die,” <a href='#Page_232'>232</a> - <ul> - <li>Governor-General of Ottoman Bank, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>“Story of Nationalism,” by Hussein Raghib, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Suffragettes chained to grille at Westminster, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Suliman, the Magnificent, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sultan Ahmed Khan, Ambassador from Afghanistan, difficult relations, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sultan Mahmoud, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sunset reveals God’s world in contrast to man’s, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Syrenaique, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Syria, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Syrians at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Sykes-Picot agreement on Mesopotamia, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Tagore, a delight to talk with, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Taine, M. Henri, on the English quoted, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Talaat Pasha, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Tanine</i>, newspaper of Angora, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Tchan-Kaya, home of M. Kemal, a few miles out of Angora, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Tcharhaff, Turkish head-dress, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Teheran, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Tewfik Rushi Bey says “easy divorce” makes happy marriages, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a> - <ul> - <li>his copy of the Pact, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>“Thesaurus,” by Roget, and a harem, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Thorndike, Sybil, in “Jane Clegg,” <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Thrace, her boundaries, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a> - <ul> - <li>tackled by Rafet Pasha, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Timbuctoo, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Times</i>, the, suppresses reports of Greek atrocities, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Timourlin, his mountain-tomb, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Timur, his ideas of pleasure, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Tokatlian’s Hotel in Constantinople, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Tokatlian’s Restaurant, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Town-planning unknown in Turkey, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_362'>362</span>Townshend, General, and the Armistice, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Tunnel, a journey through, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Turc Odjagui</i>, a club founded to protest against “Union and Progress,” from which sprang Nationalism, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c028'><a id='Turkey'></a>Turkey, meaning of word to different peoples, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a> - <ul> - <li>devotion to England, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li>the “philosophy” of her people, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li>few Turks now speak English, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> - <li>the “dead” Turkey still talked of in Lausanne, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li>here beginneth the New Turkey democrat of democracies, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li>English trade unionism not wanted, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li>birth of New Turkey, 160 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>risks of friendship with, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li>crushed and humiliated at Sèvres, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li>her real crime is to have kept Constantinople, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li>gives fair exchange, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li>no idea of town-planning, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li>an “enemy” country of dear friends, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li>strike her and all Islam will rise, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>social antipodes of England, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - <li>desire to join Opium Convention, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - <li>must have national frontiers, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>must have her place in future of civilisation, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li>harem life and tales of weddings, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>-<a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>the absentee bridegroom, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> - <li>no “old maids,” <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li>the famous women of, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>use and abuse of foreign schools, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li>great change in conditions of life, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - <li>Europe cannot grasp meaning of Turkish civilisation, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li>notes on early literature, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li>abstract character of Turkish love-poetry, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li>true head of Islam, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> - <li>can we trust the West? <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li>insulted by Christendom, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> - <li>her many services to the Vatican, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - <li>learnt French culture from Jesuit fathers, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> - <li>Allah compared with Jehovah, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>justice does <i>not</i> depend on cash, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_363'>363</span>the “Commandments” have no mystery, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li>real democracy, because Head of State is elected by, and responsible to, the people, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - <li>non-progressive centuries due to influence of Hodjas, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - <li>the Islamic atmosphere of Broussa, 276 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>Mosques always open for prayer, in contrast to cathedral at Geneva, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - <li>her heart and spirit is now in Angora, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - <li>her first appearance in “big” diplomacy, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - <li>charged with arrogance at Lausanne, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - <li>complains that her point of view is ignored, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li>still treated at Lausanne like old Turkey, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - <li>tolerance may be weakness, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - <li>has given three years proof of power to organise, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>and the League of Nations, 313 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>never interfered with British property during the war, but we have confiscated her property, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a></li> - <li>hope for the future, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>-<a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li>badly beaten but secured victory over Greeks, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Turkish courtesy has its inconvenience, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a> - <ul> - <li>religion contrary to Bolshevism, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li>food simple, but too fattening, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - <li>Anglo-Turkish alliance means peace for the world, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - <li>sister, <i>see</i> “Kiamil Pasha”</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>“Turkish Woman’s Impressions in Europe,” <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li class='c028'><a id='Turks'></a>Turks can only be dealt with by complete trust, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a> - <ul> - <li>always respect women, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - <li>anecdote of their tenderness to all animals, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> - <li>anecdote of rather inconvenient faith in Allah, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> - <li>anecdote of their proverbial carelessness about official details, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - <li>moderation in revenge, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> - <li>daily prayer, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - <li>kindness to enemy people, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - <li>their soldiers, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - <li>will not take money, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - <li>need very little food, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_364'>364</span>their high code of honour, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li>further example of their philosophy, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li>fearless riders, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li>every man equal before the law, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li>tolerance of all religions, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li>danger of our calling them “niggers” or “natives” in Egypt, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li>no longer trust the West, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li>tale of a woman patriot, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a></li> - <li>bought arms from England and other countries, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li>their almost embarrassing courtesy, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li>want an Asiatic capital, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li>their democracy not Socialism, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li>all desire peace, but cannot accept humiliation, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a></li> - <li>if they appear arrogant <i>are</i> moderate, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - <li>illustrations of democracy at weddings, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li>important to teach Nationalism to children, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li>an extreme example of fine hospitality, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> - <li>fit because they don’t drink, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - <li>beginning to lose faith in British honour, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> - <li>their new sense of confidence as citizens of a Free State, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li>dislike Germans, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li>their almost embarrassing courtesy, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> - <li>always merciful to their beasts, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> - <li>a brilliant woman medical student, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li>friendly rivalry with Christians in schools, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - <li>system of education too exact a copy of the French, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li>let us blazon their hospitality, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>their energy produces more blonde women, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - <li>the only race who can really protect Christian minorities, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> - <li>always tolerant alike to Catholics and Jews, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - <li>honour the Christian prophets and hold Jerusalem a sacred city, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - <li>claim that they would guard Jerusalem and the Holy Tomb more reverently than the Jews, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_365'>365</span>their friendship depends on the personal element, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - <li>not stubborn or unreasonable, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> - <li>anecdote of offensive arrogance from a judge towards a Turk, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - <li>spoilt by flattery in Europe and a taste of Western luxury, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> - <li>should keep their religion and their civilisation, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - <li>deep respect for maternity, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>resignation tends to stagnate, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>clean bodies, if dirty clothes and houses, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - <li>the Koran will not permit us to drown kittens, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> - <li>Asia will not deny justice to Turks, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - <li>asked to exempt Christians from military service, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>offered back “one room in their own house” as a great “concession,” <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - <li>a proud race who cannot forget even what they forgive, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - <li>sympathy from Press Department of the League, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - <li>foolishly too proud to use propaganda or answer their detractors, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li>refuse to support their claims by statistics, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li>will never become European, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - <li>hope they will trust the imperfect League, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - <li>must have Constantinople, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - <li><i>See</i> <a href='#YoungTurks'>“Young Turks”</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Turner and Pierre Loti, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a> - <ul> - <li>could not paint Eastern sunset, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Trécroupis, General; his captivity at Eski-Chéir, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a> - <ul> - <li>surrendered to Turkish lieutenant, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - <li>his revolver as a wedding-present, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Tripolitain War, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Trotsky, theories and ideas opposed to the Turkish, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Tyrell, Sir Wm., “Chief of the</li> - <li class='c028'>Underlings,” Irish Head of</li> - <li class='c028'>British Foreign Office, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li class='c003'>Union Jack sought in vain, 34 <i>et seq.</i>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a> - <ul> - <li>last sight of, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c003'>Vakit, newspaper of Angora, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Valetta, in Malta, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li class='c028'>“Vanity Fair,” <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li class='c028'><span class='pageno' id='Page_366'>366</span>Vatican ceremonials and library, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>-<a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Vely Nedjdat Bey, author’s guide in Angora, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Venizelos, his magic name, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a> - <ul> - <li>his responsibility, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li>his character, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> - <li>bird of ill-omen, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> - <li>reference to, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Versailles, a lesson for Lausanne, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a> - <ul> - <li>which of the Big Four faced <i>real</i> problems, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - <li>their pestilent neutrality and government by committees, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Von Bieberstein, Baron Marshall, rebuked by Joseph Choate, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - <li class='c003'>War means—“and he never returned,” <a href='#Page_20'>20</a> - <ul> - <li>has not yet come, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Waterloo, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Wells, H. G., on our love for those we have wronged, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Westminster, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Whahid Eddin, called the Khalif, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Wilson, General, a fine officer, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Wilson, President; his ideals derided, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Wintringham, Mrs.; effect on other women of her presence in Parliament, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Women may be protected away from their duty, 29 <i>et seq.</i> - <ul> - <li>and cows, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li>a great nuisance when they are brave, 54 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li>at a grave disadvantage as journalists, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> - <li>their seclusion comes from Byzantium, not from the Koran, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li>they “count” in the East;</li> - <li>their progress compared with the same in England, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li>leave much housework to men, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - <li>work in the war, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li>must remain anonymous, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - <li>Turkish women on English ballrooms, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - <li>never recognised by Government or by the Press, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> - <li>not now confined to harem by advanced Turks, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - <li>their freedom imperfect in England, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li>their real freedom desired by the enlightened, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> - <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_367'>367</span>the author and M. Kemal discuss the harem, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>-<a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li>lectures and friendships and weddings, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>-<a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li>women’s progress in Turkey started on right lines, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - <li>should not compete, but co-operate, with men, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - <li>their ways in Turkey, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li>harem in a Byzantine heresy, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>famous Turkish women who spoke or sang in public, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li>gained much from American colleges, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li>their freedom a burning question in Turkey, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li>their legal status, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>excellent women’s papers, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li>carried forward one hundred years by work for the Red Crescent in the Balkan Wars, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>may probably retain the veil for its Nationalist significance, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> - <li>brilliant students, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li>only a few feminine “stars” at present, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li>visit to a Lycée for Girls, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - <li>their schools and the University in Constantinople, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - <li>Soubhi, an eloquent opponent of the harem, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - <li>manifold injustice at the hands of the Puritans, who dare to scorn the unmarried mother, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>all Turks respect maternity, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - <li>their “unskilled” labour expensive, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - <li>never listened to by statesmen, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - <li>no place in Embassies, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - <li>more respected by French statesmen than English, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - <li>their unpaid and unrecognised service is gratefully received, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - <li>men more “natural” with Frenchwomen than English, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c003'><span class='pageno' id='Page_368'>368</span>Yahia Kemal, a poet who might do even finer work, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Yaili, or native carriage, dangerous driving, 254 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li class='c028'>Yemen, exiles to, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - <li class='c028'><i>Yeni Gun</i>, newspaper in Angora <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Younous Nadi Bey, who “ought to be shot,” editor of <i>Yeni Gun</i>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a> - <ul> - <li>a visit to his office and printing works, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li>his varying news of Lausanne, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'><a id='YoungTurks'></a>Young Turks not to blame for joining Germany, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a> - <ul> - <li>do not understand official diplomacy, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - <li>tremendous energy of the young nation-makers, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li>universal admiration for Halidé Hanoum, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li>hard work in “deposing” Sultans, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Youssouf Kemal Bey, Ambassador from Angora, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Youssouff Zeddine, Prince, listens to stories of England, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a> - <ul> - <li>his courage and his suicide, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c003'>Zakaroff, his gold, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Zeyneb, (i), beautiful lady-professor at Bagdad, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - <li class='c028'>Zeyneb (ii), heroine of Pierre Loti, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, 22 <i>et seq.</i></li> - <li class='c028'>Zeyneb (iii), says no fear of theft at weddings in Turkey, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a> - <ul> - <li>views on England and Russia, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li>modest about using her own language, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - <li>on Moslem Commandments, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Zia Bey, chief of Police in Smyrna, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a> - <ul> - <li>his novels and his business methods, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - </ul> - </li> - <li class='c028'>Zia Guenk Alp, Professor of Sociology, immense influence on “New” literature, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> -</ul> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div>PRINTED BY THE ANCHOR PRESS, LTD., TIPTREE, ESSEX, ENGLAND.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c002' /> -</div> -<p class='c012'> </p> -<div class='tnbox'> - - <ul class='ul_1 c003'> - <li>Transcriber’s Notes: - <ul class='ul_2'> - <li>In the <a href='#ills'>List of Illustrations</a>, the illustration “Burnt Quarter in the…” shows - 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