diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/65744-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/65744-0.txt | 4903 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 4903 deletions
diff --git a/old/65744-0.txt b/old/65744-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2cf72d9..0000000 --- a/old/65744-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4903 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Jayhawker in Europe, by W. Y. (William -Yoast) Morgan - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: A Jayhawker in Europe - - -Author: W. Y. (William Yoast) Morgan - - - -Release Date: July 2, 2021 [eBook #65744] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JAYHAWKER IN EUROPE*** - - -E-text prepared by Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 65744-h.htm or 65744-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/65744/65744-h/65744-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/65744/65744-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/jayhawkerineurop00morg - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Changes made are noted at the end of the book. - - - - - -A JAYHAWKER IN EUROPE - -by - -W. Y. MORGAN - -Author of “A Journey of a Jayhawker” - - -[Illustration] - - - - - - -Monotyped and Printed by -Crane & Company -Topeka -1911 - -Copyright 1911, -by Crane & Company - - - - -Preface - - -These letters were printed in the Hutchinson _Daily News_ during the -summer of 1911. There was no ulterior motive, no lofty purpose, just -the reporter’s idea of telling what he saw. - -They are now put in book form without revision or editing, because the -writer would probably make them worse if he tried to make them better. - - W. Y. MORGAN. - - HUTCHINSON, KANSAS, November 1, 1911. - - - - - To the Jayhawkers - - who stay at home and take their European trips - in their minds and in the books, this - volume is respectfully dedicated - by one of the - gadders - - - - -Table of Contents - - - _Page_ - - NEW YORK IN THE HOT TIME, 1 - - BREAKING AWAY, 7 - - ON THE POTSDAM, 12 - - THE LIONS OF THE SHIP, 18 - - OCEAN CURRENTS, 25 - - THE DUTCH FOLKS, 30 - - IN OLD DORDRECHT, 37 - - THE DUTCHESSES, 44 - - THE PILGRIMS’ START, 50 - - AMSTERDAM, AND OTHERS, 56 - - CHEESES AND BULBSES, 63 - - HISTORIC LEYDEN, 72 - - THE DUTCH CAPITAL, 80 - - “THE DUTCH COMPANY,” 88 - - THE GREAT RIVER, 96 - - ALONG THE RHINE, 104 - - IN GERMAN TOWNS, 112 - - ARRIVING IN PARIS, 120 - - THE FRENCH CHARACTER, 127 - - THE LATIN QUARTER, 135 - - THE BOULEVARDS OF PARIS, 144 - - SOME FRENCH WAYS, 154 - - IN DOVER TOWN, 162 - - OLD CANTERBURY TODAY, 169 - - THE ENGLISH STRIKE, 178 - - ENGLISHMAN THE GREAT, 187 - - THE NORTH OF IRELAND, 198 - - SCOTLAND AND THE SCOTCH, 211 - - THE LAND OF BURNS, 220 - - THE JOURNEY’S END. 228 - - - - -Table of Illustrations - - The scrubbing-brush the national emblem of Holland _Facing page_ 41 - - No place for a man from Kansas " 74 - - The poet Byron building castles " 100 - - The handsome knight she met in Elmdale Park " 111 - - The plain Quadrille at the Moulin Rouge " 148 - - Seeing London from the old English bus " 188 - - Introducing a joke to our British cousins " 234 - - - - -A Jayhawker _in_ Europe - - - - -New York in the Hot Time - - - NEW YORK, July 10, 1911. - -The last day on American soil before starting on a trip to other lands -should be marked with a proper spirit of seriousness, and I would -certainly live up to the propriety of the occasion if it were not for -two things,--the baggage and the weather. But how can a man heave a -sigh of regret at departing from home, when he is chasing over Jersey -City and Hoboken after a stray trunk, and the thermometer is breaking -records for highness and the barometer for humidity? I have known some -tolerably warm zephyrs from the south which were excitedly called “hot -winds,” but they were balmy and pleasant to the touch in comparison -with the New York hot wave which wilts collar, shirt and backbone -into one mass. The prospect of tomorrow being out on the big water -with a sea breeze and a northeast course does not seem bad, even if -you are leaving the Stars and Stripes and home and friends. There is -nothing like hot, humid weather to destroy patriotism, love, affection, -and common civility. I speak in mild terms, but I have returned from -Hoboken, the station just the other side of the place whose existence -is denied by the Universalists. This is the place the ship starts from, -and not from New York, as it is advertised to do. - - * * * * * - -Speaking of weather reminds me that the West is far ahead of New York -in the emancipation of men. The custom here is for men to wear coats -regardless of the temperature, whereas in the more intelligent West -a man is considered dressed up in the evening if he takes off his -gallusses along with his coat. Last night we went to a “roof garden” -and expected that it would be a jolly Bohemian affair, but every man -sat with his coat on and perspired until he couldn’t tell whether the -young ladies of the stage were kicking high or not, and worse than -that, he did not care. - -I have been again impressed with the fact that there are no flies in -New York City. There are no screens on the windows, not even of the -dining-rooms, and yet I have not seen a fly. I wish Dr. Crumbine would -tell us why it is that flies swarm out in Kansas and leave without a -friendly visit such a rich pasture-ground as they would find on the -millions of humans on Manhattan island. If I were a fly I would leave -the swatters and the hostile board of health of Kansas, and take the -limited train for New York and one perpetual picnic for myself and -family. - - * * * * * - -This afternoon I went to the ball game, of course. Some people would -have gone to the art exhibit or the beautiful public library. But New -York and Chicago were to play and Matthewson was to pitch, and the -call of duty prevailed over the artistic yearnings which would have -taken me elsewhere. Coming home from the game I had an idea--which is -a dangerous thing to do in hot weather. There has been a good deal -of talk in the newspapers about the Republicans not agreeing on a -candidate, and the question as to whether Taft can be reëlected or -not is being vigorously debated. Put ’em all out and nominate Christy -Matthewson. This would insure the electoral vote of New York, for if -the Republicans put “Matty” on the ticket the election returns would be -so many millions for Matthewson and perhaps a few scattering. - -There were about as many errors and boneheads in the game between -Chicago and New York as there would be in a Kansas State League game, -and more than would come to pass in the match between the barbers -and the laundrymen of Hutchinson. The players did not indulge in -that brilliant repartee with the umpire which is a feature of the -Kansas circuit, and the audience, while expressing its opinion of -the judgments, had no such wealth of phrases as pours over the boxes -from the grandstand at home. The language used could have come from -the ministerial alliance, and sometimes the game seemed more like a -moving-picture show than a real live game of baseball. Chicago won, -3 to 2 in ten innings, and I feel that my European trip is a decided -success so far. - -This morning I took a little walk down Wall street and saw the place in -which the Great Red Dragon lives. These New York bankers and brokers -are not so dangerous as I have been led to believe by reading some -of the speeches in Congress. There was no blood around the Standard -Oil building, and the office of J. Pierpont was filled with men who -looked as uncomfortable and unhappy as I felt with the heat. Sometimes -I think the men of Wall street, New York, are just like the men at -home,--getting all they can under the rules of the game and only -missing the bases when the umpire looks the other way. The few with -whom I talked were really concerned about the crops and the welfare of -the people of Kansas, perhaps because they have some of their money -invested in our State, and I got the idea that Wall street and all it -represents is interested in the prosperity of the country and knows -that hard times anywhere mean corresponding trouble for some of them in -New York. - - * * * * * - -New York is a growing city. In many respects it is like Hutchinson. The -street paving is full of holes and new buildings are going up in every -direction. Every few months “the highest skyscraper” is erected, and -now one is being constructed that will have fifty or sixty stories--it -doesn’t matter which. The buildings are faced with brick or stone, but -really built of iron. I saw one today on which the bricklaying had been -begun at the seventh story and was proceeding in both directions. That -was the interesting feature of the building to me. That and the absence -of flies and the baseball game are the general results of my efforts -today to see something of the greatest city in America. - -We sail tomorrow morning. Then it will be ten days on the ship for us. -One thing about an ocean voyage is reasonably sure: If you don’t like -it you can’t get off and walk. A really attractive feature is that -there is no dust and you don’t watch the clouds and wish it would rain -so you will not have to water the lawn. - - - - -Breaking Away - - - STEAMSHIP POTSDAM, July 11. - -The sailing of an ocean steamer is always a scene of delightful -confusion and excitement. Thousands of people throng the pier and -the ship, saying goodbyes to the hundreds who are about to leave. -The journey across the ocean, though no longer a matter of danger or -hardship, is yet enough of an event to start the emotions and make the -emoters forget everything but the watery way and the long absence. - -The crowd is anxious, expectant, sad, and unrestrained. Men who rarely -show personal feeling look with glistening eyes on the friends to be -left behind. Women, who are always seeing disaster to their loved ones, -strive with pats, caresses and fond phrases to say the consoling words -or to express the terror in their hearts. The timid girl, off for a -year’s study, wishes she had not been so venturesome. The father rubs -his eyes and talks loudly about the baggage. The mother clings to her -son’s arm and whispers to him how she will pray for him every night, -and hopes he will change his underclothes when the days are cool. Young -folks hold hands and tell each other of the constant remembrance that -they will have. Big bouquets of flowers are brought on by stewards, -the trunks go sliding up the plank and into the ship, the officers -strut up and down, conscious of the admiring glances of the curious, -orders are shouted, sailors go about tying and untying ropes, the rich -family parades on with servants and boxes, the whistle blows for the -visitors to leave, and the final goodbyes and “write me” and “lock the -back door” and “tell Aunt Mary” and such phrases fill the air while -handkerchiefs alternately wipe and wave. - -Slowly the big boat backs into the stream amid a fog of cheers and -sobs, then goes ahead down the harbor, past the pier still alive with -fluttering handkerchiefs, the voices no longer to be heard, and the -passengers feel that sinking of the heart that comes from the knowledge -of the separation by time and distance coming to them for weeks and -months, perhaps forever. Sorrowfully they strain for a last look at -the crowd, now too far away to distinguish the wanted face, and then -they turn around, look at their watches, and wonder how long it will be -before lunch. Of course the Dutch band played the Star-Spangled Banner -as the boat trembled and started; of course the last passenger arrived -just a minute late and was prevented from making an effort to jump -the twenty feet of water which then separated the ship from the pier. -Of course the boys sold American flags and souvenir post cards. Of -course the tourists wondered if they would be seasick and their friends -rather hoped they would be, though they did not say so. The steamboats -whistled salutes, and the band changed its tune to a Dutch version of -“The Girl I Left Behind Me,” and with flags flying the Potsdam moved -past the big skyscrapers, past the Battery, alongside the Statue of -Liberty, and out toward the Atlantic like a swan in Riverside Park. The -voyage has begun. The traveler has to look after his baggage, which is -miraculously on board, find his deck chairs and his dining-room seats, -and between times rush out occasionally to get one more glimpse of -the New Jersey coast, which is never very pretty except when you are -homeward bound, when even Oklahoma would look good. - - * * * * * - -This boat, the Potsdam, of the Holland-American line, is not one of the -big and magnificent floating hotels which take travelers across the -Atlantic so rapidly that they do not get acquainted with each other and -in such style that they think they are at a summer resort. But it is a -good-sized, easy-sailing, slow-going ship that will take about ten days -across and has every comfort which the Dutch can think of, and they are -long on having things comfortable. It has a reputation for steadiness -and good meals which makes it popular with people who have traveled -the Atlantic and who enjoy the ocean voyage as the best part of a trip -abroad. It lands at Rotterdam, one of the best ports of Europe and -right in the center of the most interesting part of the Old World. - - * * * * * - -The pilot left us at Sandy Hook, and now the Potsdam is sailing right -out into the big water. A cool breeze has taken the place of the hot -air of New York. The ocean is smooth; there is neither roll nor heave -to the ship. Everybody is congratulating himself that this is to be -a smooth voyage. A substantial luncheon is still staying where it -belongs, and we are looking over the other passengers and being looked -over by them. There is no chance to get off and go back if we wanted to -do so. And we don’t want to--not yet. - - - - -On the Potsdam - - - STEAMSHIP POTSDAM, July 14. - -The daily life on shipboard might be considered monotonous if one were -being paid for it, but under the present circumstances and surroundings -the time goes rapidly. Everybody has noticed that the things he is -obliged to do are dull and uninteresting. Any ordinary American would -demand about $10 a day for fastening himself in a boat and remaining -there for ten days. He would get tired of the society, sick of the -meals and sore on his job. But call it “fun” and he pays $10 a day -for the pleasure of the ride. The Potsdam is 560 feet long, sixty-two -feet wide, and seven stories high,--four above the water-line and -three below. On this trip its first-class accommodations are filled, -about 260 people; but the second class is not crowded, and less than a -hundred steerage passengers occupy that part of the ship which often -carries 2,100 people. The steerage is crowded on the trip to America, -filled with men and women who are leaving home and fatherland in order -to do better for themselves and their children. They go back in later -years, for a visit, but they do not travel in the steerage. They carry -little American flags and scatter thoughts of freedom and free men in -the older lands. - - * * * * * - -This is a Dutch ship and the language of the officers and crew is -Dutch. While a few of them speak some English and most of them know a -little, the general effect is that of getting into an entirely foreign -environment. The Dutch language is a peculiar blend. It seems to be -partly derived from the German, partly from the English, and partly -from the Choctaw. The pronunciation is difficult because it is unlike -the German, the English or the Latin tongues. An ordinary word spelled -out looks like a freight train of box cars with several cabooses. As -one of my Dutch fellow-passengers said when he was instructing me how -to pronounce the name of the capital of Holland, “Don’t try to say it; -sneeze it.” A great deal of interest is added to the smallest bits of -conversation by the doubt as to whether the Dutch speaker is telling -you that it is dinner-time or whether he has swallowed his store teeth. - -Which reminds me of a little story Ben Nusbaum told me of the Dutchman -who came into the Oxford café, sat up to the counter and in proper -Dutch etiquette greeted the waiter with the salutation, “Wie gehts?” -Turning toward the kitchen the waiter sang out, “wheat cakes!” “Nein! -nein!” shouted the Dutchman. “Nine,” said the waiter, scornfully; -“you’ll be dam lucky if you get three!” - - * * * * * - -The principal occupation on board a Dutch ship is eating, and the next -most important is drinking. The eats begin with a hearty breakfast from -8 to 10 o’clock. At 11 o’clock, beef soup, sandwiches and crackers. -At 12:30, an elaborate luncheon. At 4 o’clock, afternoon tea, with -sandwiches and fancy cakes. At 7 o’clock, a great dinner. At 9 o’clock, -coffee, sandwiches, etc. Any time between these meals you can get -something to eat, anything from beef to buns, and the table in the -smoking-room is always loaded with cheese, sausage, ham, cakes and all -the little knick-knacks that tempt you to take one as you go by. And -yet there is surprise that some people are seasick. - -You can get anything you want to drink except water, which is scarce, -and apparently only used for scrubbing and bathing. Of course the -steward will find you a little water, if you are from Kansas, but he -thinks you are sick, wants to add a hot-water bag, and suggests that -the ship doctor might help you some. - - * * * * * - -I have spoken before of the Dutch band. It is a good one, and loves to -play. The first concert is at 10 in the morning. There is orchestra -music during luncheon and dinner, and band concerts afternoon and -evening. I like a German band, or a Dutch band, so long as it sticks -to its proper répertoire. But there never was a German band that could -play “My Old Kentucky Home” and “Swanee River,” and every German band -persists in doing so in honor of the Americans. I suppose this desire -to do something you can’t do is not confined to Dutch musicians. I -know a man who can whistle like a bird, but he insists that he is a -violinist, and plays second fiddle. I know a singer with a really great -voice who persists in the theory that he can recite, which he can’t. -Therefore he is a great bore, and nobody thinks he can even sing. -Nearly all of us are afflicted some along this line, and the Dutch band -on the Potsdam is merely accenting the characteristic in brass. - - * * * * * - -Today I saw a whale. Every time I am on the ocean I see a whale. -At first nobody else could see it, but soon a large number could. -There was a good deal of excitement, and the passengers divided -into two factions, those who saw the whale and those who didn’t and -who evidently thought we didn’t. The argument lasted nearly all the -morning, and would be going on yet if a ship had not appeared in the -distance, and our passengers divided promptly as to whether it was -a Cunarder, a French liner, or a Norwegian tramp freighter. This -discussion will take our valuable time all the afternoon. Friends will -become enemies, and some of those who rallied around the whale story -are almost glaring at each other over the nationality of that distant -vessel. I am trying to keep out of this debate, as I am something of -a Hero because I saw the whale. I have already told of my nautical -experience on Cow creek, so while I feel I would be considered an -authority, it is better to let some of the other ambitious travelers -get a reputation. - - - - -The Lions of the Ship - - - STEAMSHIP POTSDAM, July 19. - -There are always "lions" on a ship, not the kind that roar and shake -their manes, but those the other passengers point at and afterward -recall with pride. I often speak carelessly of the time I crossed with -Willie Vandergould, although he never left his room during the voyage -and was probably sleeping off the effects of a long spree. Once I was -a fellow-passenger with Julia Marlowe, a fact Julia never seemed to -recognize. There are always a few counts and capitalists on an ocean -steamer, and a ship without a lion is unfortunate. Our largest and -finest specimen is Booth Tarkington, the head of the Indiana school of -fiction, an author whose books have brought him fame and money, and a -playwright whose dramatizations have won success. He is the tamest lion -I ever crossed with. He is delightfully democratic, not a bit chesty, -but rather modest, and as friendly to a traveling Jayhawker as he is to -the distinguished members of the company. In fact, he understands and -speaks the Kansas language like a native. His ideal of life is to have -a home on an island in the track of the ocean steamers so he can sit on -the porch and watch the ships come and go. Not for me. It is too much -like living in a Kansas town where No. 3 and No. 4 do not stop, and -every day the locomotives snort and go by without even hesitating. - - * * * * * - -Tarkington is an honest man, so he says, and he tells good sea stories. -His favorite true story is of Toboga Bill, a big shark which followed -ships up and down the South-American coast, foraging off the scraps -the cooks threw overboard. Tarkington’s friend, Captain Harvey, -got to noticing that on every trip his boat was escorted by Toboga -Bill, whose bald spot on top and a wart on the nose made him easily -recognizable. Harvey got to feeding him regularly with the spoiled meat -and vegetables, and Toboga Bill would come to the surface, flop his -fin at the captain and thank him as plainly as a shark could do. After -several years of this mutual acquaintance the captain happened to be -in a small-boat going out to his ship at a Central-American port. The -boat upset, and the captain and sailors were immediately surrounded by -a herd of man-eating sharks. The shore was a mile away and the captain -swam that distance, the only one who escaped; and all the way he could -see Toboga Bill with his fin standing up straight, keeping the other -sharks from his old friend. Occasionally Toboga would give the captain -a gentle shove, and finally pushed him onto the beach. - -This story Tarkington admitted sounded like a fish story, but he has a -motor-boat named Toboga Bill, which verifies the tale. - - * * * * * - -That reminded me of a Kansas fish story which I introduced to the -audience. Everybody in Kansas knows of the herd of hornless catfish -which has been bred near the Bowersock dam at Lawrence. Some years ago -Mr. Bowersock, who owns the dam that furnishes power for the mill and -other factories, conceived the idea that big Kaw river catfish going -through the mill-race and onto the water-wheel added much to the power -generated. Then he read that fish are very sensitive to music. So he -hired a man with an accordion to stand over the mill-race and play. -The catfish came from up and down stream to hear the music, and almost -inevitably drifted through the race, onto the wheel, and increased -the power. The fishes’ horns used to get entangled in the wheel and -injure the fish; so Mr. Bowersock, who is a kind-hearted man and very -persistent, had a lot of the fish caught and dehorned, and in a year or -two he had a large herd of hornless catfish. These fish not only turn -out to hear the music, but they have learned to enjoy the trip through -the mill-race and over the wheel, so that every Sunday or oftener whole -families of catfish--and they have large families--come to Bowersock’s -dam to shoot the chutes something as people go out to ride on the -scenic railway. Whenever the water in the river gets low Mr. Bowersock -has the band play: the catfish gather and go round and round over the -wheel, furnishing power for the Bowersock mill when every other wheel -on the river is idle from lack of water. - -There were some skeptical folks who heard my simple story and affected -to disbelieve. But I assured them that it could be easily proven, and -if they would go to Lawrence I would show them the Bowersock dam and -the catfish. It is always a good idea to have the proofs for a fish -story. - - * * * * * - -The next “lion” on board is Gov. Fook, returning from the Dutch West -Indies, where he has been governing the islands and Dutch Guiana. -The governor is a well-informed gentleman, and a splendid player of -pinochle. The Dutch have the thrifty habit of making their colonies -pay. They are not a “world power” and do not have to be experimenting -with efforts to lift the white man’s burden. Their idea is that the -West-Indian and the East-Indian who live under the Dutch flag shall -work. The American idea is to educate and convert the heathen and -pension them from labor. Our theory sounds all right, but it results -in unhappy Filipinos and increased expense for Americans. The Dutch -colonials pay their way whether they get an education or not. - -One unfamiliar with modern steamship travel would think that the -captain and his first and second officers were the important officials -on board. They are not. The officers rank about as follows: 1st, the -cook; 2nd, the engineer; 3rd, the barber, and after that the rest. The -cook on an ocean steamer gets more pay than the captain, and is now -ranked as an officer. The managing director of a big German company was -accustomed on visiting any ship of their line, to first shake hands -with the cook and then with the captain. When one of the officers -suggested that he was not following etiquette he answered that there -was no trouble getting captains and lieutenants but it was a darned -hard job to find a cook. The cook has to buy, plan meals, supervise the -kitchen and run it economically for the company and satisfactorily for -the passengers, for over 2,000 people. - -The barber is the man on the ship who knows everything for sure. Ask -the captain when we will get to Rotterdam and he will qualify and trim -his answer by referring to possible winds and tides, and he won’t say -exactly. Ask the barber and he will tell you we will get there at 10 -o’clock on Friday night. He knows everything going on in the boat, from -the kind of freight carried in the hold to the meaning of the colors -painted on the smokestack. During this voyage I have had more numerous -and interesting facts than anybody, because I have not fooled with -talking to the captain or the purser or the steward, but gotten my -information straight from the fountain of knowledge, the barber shop. -However, this is not peculiar to ships. The same principle applies at -Hutchinson and every other town. - - - - -Ocean Currents - - - STEAMSHIP POTSDAM, July 21. - -This is the eleventh day of the voyage from New York, and if the -Potsdam does not have a puncture or bust a singletree she will arrive -at Rotterdam late tonight. The Potsdam is a most comfortable boat, but -it is in no hurry. It keeps below the Hutchinson speed limit of fifteen -miles an hour. But a steamship never stops for water or oil, or to -sidetrack or to wait for connections. This steady pounding of fourteen -miles an hour makes an easy speed for the passenger, and the verdict of -this ship’s company is that the Potsdam is a bully ship and the captain -and the cook are all right. - - * * * * * - -Nearly all the way across the Atlantic we have been in the Gulf stream. -I have read of this phenomenal current which originates in the Gulf of -Mexico and comes up the eastern coast of the United States so warm that -it affects the climate wherever it touches. Then nearly opposite New -England it turns and crosses the Atlantic, a river of warm water many -miles wide, flowing through the ocean, which is comparatively cold. -This stream is a help to the boats going in its direction, although it -has the bad feature of frequent fogs caused by the condensation which -comes when the warm and cold air currents meet. The Gulf stream is -believed to be responsible for the green of Ireland and for the winter -resorts of southern England. It goes all the way across the Atlantic -and into the English Channel, with a branch off to Ireland. What causes -the Gulf stream? I forget the scientific terms, but this is the way it -is, according to my friend Mr. Vischer, formerly of the German navy. -The water in the Gulf of Mexico is naturally warm. The motion of the -earth, from west to east, and other currents coming into the gulf, -crowd the warm water out and send the big wide stream into the Atlantic -with a whirl which starts it in a northerly and easterly direction. -The same Providence that makes the grass grow makes the course of the -current, and it flows for thousands of miles, gradually dissipating at -the edges, but still a warm-water river until it breaks on the coast of -the British Isles and into the North Sea. Perhaps Mr. Vischer would not -recognize this explanation, but I have translated it into a vernacular -which I can understand. - - * * * * * - -The Gulf stream reminds me of the Mediterranean. Not having much else -to worry about, I have gone to worrying over the Mediterranean Sea. -The ocean always flows into the sea. The current through the strait -of Gibraltar is always inward. Many great rivers contribute to the -blue waters of the great sea. There is no known outlet. Why does -not the Mediterranean run over and fill the Sahara desert, which is -considerably below the sea-level? Scientists have tried to figure -this out, and the only tangible theory is that the bottom of the -Mediterranean leaks badly in some places, and that the water finds its -way by subterranean channels back to the ocean. What would happen if an -eruption of Vesuvius should stop up the drain-pipe? Now worry. - -Tonight we saw another phenomenon, the aurora borealis. It looked to -me like a beautiful sunset in the north. We are sailing in the North -Sea along the coast of Belgium, and the water reaches northward to the -pole. The aurora borealis is another phenomenon not easily explained, -but Mr. Vischer says it is probably the reflection of the sun from the -ice mirror of the Arctic. And it does make you feel peculiar to see -what is apparently the light of the sunset flare up toward the “Dipper” -and the North Star. - - * * * * * - -Some of our passengers disembarked today at Boulogne. This was the -first time the Potsdam had paused since she left New York a week ago -last Tuesday. This was the stop for the passengers who go direct to -Paris. The Dutch who are homeward bound and those of us who think it -best to fool around a little before encountering the dangers of Paris, -continue to Rotterdam. We should be spending the evening with maps and -guide books preparing ourselves for the art galleries, cathedrals, -canals and windmills. As a matter of fact, we are wondering what is -going on at home. There is a balance-wheel in the human heart that -makes the ordinary citizen who is far afield or afloat turn to the -thoughts of the home which he left, seeking a change. - - * * * * * - -A smoking-room story: An American in a European art gallery was heading -an aggregation of family and friends for a study of art. His assurance -was more pronounced than his knowledge. “See this beautiful Titian,” he -said. “What glorious color, and mark the beauty of the small lines. -Isn’t it a jim dandy? And next to it is a Rubens by the same artist!” - - - - -The Dutch Folks - - - ROTTERDAM, HOLLAND, July 23. - -It seemed to me unnecessary, but I had to explain to some friends why -I was going especially to Holland. It is the biggest little country -in the world. In art it rivals Italy, in business it competes with -England, historically it has had more thrills to the mile than France, -and in appearance it is the oddest, queerest, and most different from -our own country, of all the nations of central Europe. Holland gives -you more for your money and your time than any other, and that’s why I -am back here to renew the hurried acquaintance with the Dutch made a -few years ago. - -Landing in Rotterdam was an experiment. The guide books and the tourist -authorities pass Rotterdam over with brief mention. Baedeker, the -tripper’s friend, suggests that you can see Rotterdam in a half-day. -That is because Rotterdam is short on picture galleries and cathedrals. -It is a great, busy city of a half-million people, and one of the -most active commercially in the world. It is the port where the boats -from the Rhine meet the ships of the sea. It is the greatest freight -shipping and receiving port of northern Europe. It is the coming city -of the north, because of its natural advantages in cheap freight rates. -After looking it over hurriedly it seems to me to be one of the most -interesting of cities. I am not going to run away from cathedrals and -galleries. I am not intending to dodge when I see a beautiful landscape -coming. But I have done my duty in the past and have seen the great -cathedrals and the exhibitions of art. No one can come to Europe and -not see these things once, for if he did he would not be able to lift -up his head in the presence of other travelers. But he does not have -to do them a second time. If I want to see pictures of Dutch ladies -labeled “Madonna,” I will see them. If I don’t want to, I do not have -to. In other words, if I go to the “tourist delights” it will be my own -fault. - -I would rather see the people themselves than the pictures of them. -I want to observe how they work, what they work for, what their -prospects are, and wherein they differ from the great Americans. - - * * * * * - -Man made most of Holland. Nearly all of the country is below the level -of the sea, much of it many feet below. All that keeps the tide of the -North Sea from flooding the country with from ten to a hundred feet of -water every day are the dikes which man has built. Behind these huge -embankments lies a country as flat as the flattest prairie in Kansas. -A few sandhills and an occasional little rise of ground might stick -out of the water if the dikes broke, but I doubt it. This “made” land -has been fertilized and built up by the silt of the rivers, added to -by the labor and science of man, until it is a vast market garden. -The water of the rivers is diverted in every direction into canals. -There is no current to the rivers; the surface is too flat, and the -fresh water is backed up twice a day by the ocean tides at the mouths. -There are practically no locks and the movement of the water is hardly -perceptible, except near the coast, where it responds to the advance -and retreat of the sea. These canals are an absolute necessity for -drainage, otherwise the country would be a swamp. Then they are used -as roads, and practically all the freight is carried to market cheaply -in canal-boats. The canals also serve as fences. The drainage water is -pumped by windmills, which are then used to furnish power for every -imaginable manufacturing purpose, from sawing lumber to grinding wheat. -The cheap wind-power enabled the people to clear the land of water. So -you see why there are dikes, canals and windmills in Holland: because -they were the only available instruments in the hand of man to beat -back the sea and build a productive soil. They were not inserted in the -Holland landscape for beauty or for art’s sake, but because they were -necessities; and yet great artists come to Holland to paint pictures -of these practical things, and when they want to add more beauty they -insert Dutch cattle and wooden shoes. All of which shows that the plain -everyday things around us are really picturesque; and they are, whether -you look at the sandhills along the Arkansas or the dunes along the -North Sea. - - * * * * * - -In this little country, containing 12,500 square miles of land and -water, smaller than the seventh congressional district of Kansas, live -almost 6,000,000 of the busiest people on earth. Their character may be -drawn from their history. They first beat the ocean out of the arena -and then made the soil. They met and overcame more obstacles than any -other people in getting their land. And then for several centuries they -had to fight all the rest of Europe to keep from being absorbed by one -or the other of the great powers. They drove out the Spaniards at a -time when Spain was considered invincible. They licked England on the -sea, and the Dutch Admiral Tromp sailed up and down the Channel with a -broom at the mast of his ship. They drove Napoleon’s soldiers and his -king out of the country. They never willingly knuckled down to anybody, -and they never stayed down long when they were hit. - -The Dutch have for centuries been considered the best traders in -Europe. They have the ports for commerce and they have the money. -They own 706,000 square miles of colonies, with a population six -times as large as their own. From the beginning they have been ruled -by merchants and business men, rather than by kings and princes, by -men who knew how to buy and sell and fight. They have been saving and -thrifty, and can dig up more cash than any other bunch of inhabitants -on the globe. They have sunk some money in American railroads, but they -have made it back, and they always take interest. Market-gardening and -manufacturing and trade have been their resources, and nothing can beat -that three of a kind for piling up profits and providing a way to keep -the money working. - -Of course these characteristics and this environment have made the -Dutch peculiar in some ways, and they are generally counted a little -close or “near.” They habitually use their small coin, the value of -two-fifths of an American cent, and they want and give all that is -coming. They have good horses, fat stomachs, and lots of children. They -are pleasant but not effusive, and they are as proud of their country -as are the inhabitants of any place on earth. They believe in everybody -working, including the women and the dogs. Their struggle with the sea -never ends, and they follow the same persistent course in every line of -development. They are so clean it is a wonder they are comfortable, and -they believe in eating and drinking and having a good time, just so it -doesn’t cost too much. They are a great people, and here’s looking at -them. - - - - -In Old Dordrecht - - - DORDRECHT, July 23. - -This is the oldest town in Holland, and once upon a time was the -great commercial city. It is about fifteen miles from Rotterdam, and -remember that fifteen miles is a long distance in this country. It is -built upon an island; two rivers and any number of canals run around -it and through it whenever the tide ebbs or flows. Good-sized ocean -steamers come to its wharves, and until other cities developed deeper -harbors Dordrecht was the Hutchinson of southwest Holland. And now let -me explain that the people of this country do not call it Holland, but -The Netherland. Originally Holland was the western part of the present -Netherland. Dordrecht is in old South Holland. About nine hundred years -ago the Count of Holland, who then ruled in this precinct, decided to -levy a tax or a tariff on all goods shipped on this route, the main -traveled road from England to the Orient. The other counts and kings -and bishops kicked, but after a fight the right of the Count of -Holland was vindicated, and he built the city of Dordrecht as a sort of -customs house. This was in 1008. For several hundred years Dordrecht -prospered and was known as a great commercial city. Then Antwerp, -Rotterdam and Amsterdam came forward with better harbors, and Dordrecht -took a back seat. But it has always been one of the important places -in The Netherland. When William of Orange took hold of the revolution -against Spain, the first conference of the representatives of the Dutch -states was held in Dordrecht, and it was always loyal to the cause of -Dutch freedom. The best hotel and restaurant in the city today is The -Orange, named for the royal house which has so long been at the head of -the Dutch government. My idea of a really important statesman is one -for whom hotels and cigars are named centuries after he has passed away. - - * * * * * - -This is Sunday, and I am forced to believe that the Dutch are not good -churchgoers. We went to the evening service in the great cathedral. In -fact, we went to the cathedral and suddenly the service began without -our having time to retire gracefully. So we decided to stay, and in a -prominent place was a list of the prices of seats. Some cost ten cents, -some five cents, and some were marked free. I handed ten cents to the -lady in charge, and we took two seats in the rear, which I afterward -discovered were free. The women seem to run the church much as they -do at home. The Dutch hymns were not so bad, but the Dutch sermon was -not interesting to me. During the closing song, we thought we would -slip out quietly, but when we reached the door we found it locked. The -custom is to lock the door and allow no one to enter or leave during -the service, but as a special favor to Americans, who evidently did not -know what they were doing, the guardian of the door unlocked it, and -out we went amid general interest of the congregation. - - * * * * * - -We came from Rotterdam on a little steam-boat, which scooted along the -rivers and canals like a street car. Very often the canal was built -higher than the adjoining land, and it gave the peculiar feeling of -boating in the air. There is no waste ground. Every foot of it not -occupied by a house or a chicken-yard, is pasture or under cultivation. -Every farmer has a herd of those black-and-white cattle. Some of the -herds are as many as six or seven cows. But every cow acted as if -she were doing her full duty toward making Holland the wealthiest of -nations. - - * * * * * - -The streets of Dordrecht are generally narrow, like those of all old -towns. Many of the buildings are very old, and a favorite style of -architecture is to have the front project several feet forward over the -street. The tops of opposite buildings often almost meet. I don’t see -why they do not meet and come down kerwhack, but they don’t. Imagine -these quaint streets with old Dutch houses, white and blue, with red -tiled roofs, and green and yellow thrown in to give them color, with -angles and dormers and curious corners, the tops projecting toward -one another, and you can see how interesting a Dutch street can be if -it tries, as it does in Dordrecht. Of course in the outer and newer -parts of the town are larger streets and more modern houses, with -beautiful gardens and flower beds that would baffle a painter for -color, but old Dordrecht is the most interesting. Add to the street -picture a canal down the middle, and you get a frequent variation. Put -odd Dutch boats in the water, fill them with freight and children, and -you have another. If this were not picturesque it would be grotesque to -American eyes, but it is the actual development of Dutch civilization, -and it is the thing you pay money for when some artist catches the -inspiration which he can get here if anywhere. - -[Illustration: THE SCRUBBING-BRUSH THE NATIONAL EMBLEM OF HOLLAND] - - * * * * * - -Of course the streets are paved, and they are as clean as the floor of -an ordinary American dwelling. Everyone knows that the Dutch are clean -and that their national emblem ought to be a scrubbing-brush. They -are so clean that it almost hurts. Very often there are no sidewalks, -and when there are they are not level, and are generally fenced in. -They belong to the abutting property, and are not to be walked on -by the public. The people walk in the street, and that custom is a -little hard to get used to. Before the front window of nearly every -house is a mirror, so fastened that those within the house can see -up and down the street, observe who is coming and who is going, and -where. This custom, if introduced at home, would save a good deal of -neck-stretching. But at first one is overly conscious of the many eyes -which are observing his walk and the many minds which are undoubtedly -trying to guess just where and why and who. But this mirror custom does -not bother the Dutch young folks, not much. It is also the custom for -the young man and his sweetheart to parade along the street hand in -hand, arm in arm, or catch-as-catch-can, if they want to,--and they -want to a great deal. At first this looked like a rude demonstration of -affection, but after you have observed it some, say for an hour or so, -it doesn’t seem half bad,--if you were only Dutch. - - * * * * * - -Dordrecht has about 40,000 people, and all of them are on the street -or at the window on Sunday. The saloons are open, but nothing is sold -stronger than gin. The Dutch in a quiet, gentlemanly and ladylike way, -are evidently trying to consume all the beer that can be made in -Holland or imported. Of course they can’t succeed, but, as the story -goes, they can probably make the breweries work nights. There is really -a need for a temperance organization in this country, and I should say -it would have work enough to last it several thousand years. - - - - -The Dutchesses - - - ROTTERDAM, July 24. - -The secret of the success of the Dutch is no secret at all. Everybody -works, not excepting father, grandfather and grandmother. I suppose -this habit began with the unceasing fight against the sea, the building -of the dikes, the pumping out of the water, and the construction of a -soil. It has continued until there is no other people more persistently -industrious. They rise early and get busy. The women cook and scrub -and work on the canal-boats, in the shops and in the fields. The -children go to school eleven months in the year. The men are stout, -quick, and work from early to late. Even the dogs work in Holland. -At first it seemed rather hard to see the dogs hitched to the little -carts and pulling heavy loads, sometimes a man riding on the cart. This -is a serious country for the canine, and must be the place where the -phrase “worked like a dog” got its start. In most places the dog is -the companion and pet of man, but in Holland he has to do his part in -making a living, and he soon learns to draw the load, pulling hard and -conscientiously on the traces. He has little time to fight and frolic, -but he has the great pleasure of the rest that comes from hard labor. -However, if I were a dog and were picking out a country for a location, -I would stay far away from Holland. It is no uncommon sight to see a -woman with a strap over her shoulders dragging a canal-boat or pulling -a little wagon. In fact, the women of The Netherland have rights which -they are not even asking in the United States, and no one disputes -their prerogative of hard work. There are no “Suffragettes” in Holland, -but a woman can do nearly anything she wants to unless it is vote, -which she apparently does not care for. There are many rich Hollanders; -in fact, there are few that are poor. But they do not constitute a -leisure class. The wealthy Dutch gent merely works the harder and the -wealthy Dutch “vrouw” scrubs and manages the household or runs the -store just as she did in the earlier years of struggle. - -Speaking of the Dutch women, I think they are good-looking. They are -almost invariably strong and well in appearance, with good complexions, -clever eyes and capable expression. They may weigh a little strong for -some, but that is a matter of taste. The old Dutch peasant costumes are -still worn in places, but as a rule their clothes come from the same -models as those for the American women. The Dutchess has been reared -to work, to manage, and to advise with her man. She is intelligent in -appearance and quick in action. She is educated and companionable. -What if her waist line disappears? What if she has no ankles, only -feet and legs? Perhaps it will be thought that I am going too far in -my investigation, but the Dutch ladies ride bicycles so generally that -even a man from America can see a few things, no matter how hard he -tries to look the other way and comes near getting run over. - - * * * * * - -The Queen of Holland is a woman. This is not a startling statement, -for so far as I know a man has never been a queen in any country. But -there is no king. Queen Wilhelmina’s husband, Prince Henry, is not a -king. If there is any ruling to do in Holland it is done by Wilhelmina. -Henry can’t even appoint a notary public. No one pays any attention -to him, and I understand Wilhelmina has given it out that what Henry -says does not go with her. I am trying to investigate the status of -affairs in the royal family, because I had entertained the idea that -Wilhelmina was an unfortunate young queen with a bad husband. That may -have been so a few years ago, but now I understand she bats poor Henry -around scandalously, pays no heed to his wishes, and pointedly calls -his attention about three times a day to the fact that he is nothing -but a one-horse prince while she is the boss of the family and the -kingdom. This pleases the Dutch immensely, for Henry is a German and -the Dutch don’t like the Germans. They think the Germans are conceited -and arrogant, and that Emperor William is planning to eventually annex -The Netherland to Germany. So every time Wilhelmina turns down the -German prince all the Dutch people think it is fine, and her popularity -is immense. Henry gets a good salary, but his job would be a hard one -for a self-respecting American. I understand he is much dissatisfied, -but he was not raised to a trade, and if Wilhelmina should stop his pay -he would go hungry and thirsty, two conditions which would make life -intolerable for a German prince. - - * * * * * - -Wilhelmina has a daughter, two years old, named Juliana. I suppose -Henry is related to Juliana, but he gets no credit for it. Everywhere -you go you see pictures of Wilhelmina and Juliana, but not of Henry. A -princess is really what the Dutch want, for their monarch has actually -no power, and the government is entirely managed by the representatives -of the people. But a prince would likely be wild, and might want to mix -into public affairs. A princess makes a better figurehead of the state. -She will be satisfied with a new dress and a hand-decorated crown, and -not be wanting an army and battleships as a prince might do. Wilhelmina -represents to the Dutch people the ruling family of Orange, which -brought them through many crises, and Juliana is another Orange. Henry -is only a lemon which the Germans handed to them. - -The royal family are off on a visit to Brussels, and I have not met any -of them. This information I have gleaned from the hotel porters, the -boat captains, the chambermaids, and the clerks who speak English. I -imagine I have come nearer getting the facts than if I had sent in my -card at the royal palace. - - - - -The Pilgrims’ Start - -DELFTSHAVEN, July 25. - - -This is the town from which the Pilgrims sailed on the trip which was -to make Plymouth Rock famous. Nearly a hundred of the congregation of -Rev. John Robinson at Leyden came to this little suburb of Rotterdam, -and embarked on the Speedwell. The night before the start was spent by -the congregation in exhortation and prayer in a little church which -still stands, and has the fact recorded on a big tablet. The Pilgrims -went to Southampton, discovered the Speedwell was not seaworthy, and -transferred to the Mayflower. - - * * * * * - -Those English Puritans who had emigrated from their own country to -Holland were considered “religious cranks” even in those days when -fighting and killing for religion was regarded the proper occupation of -a Christian. The Puritans in England were strong in numbers, and while -Queen Elizabeth had frowned upon them as dissenters from the church -of which she was the head, she was politician enough to restrain the -persecution of them, for they were useful citizens and loved to die -fighting Spaniards. But a few extremists who persisted in preaching -in public places were sentenced to jail, and some of these skipped to -Holland. Queen Elizabeth died and James became the King of England, -and he was a pinhead. He hated non-conformists as much as Catholics. -So, more of the Puritans who could not pretend to conform went to -Holland, and in Leyden and Amsterdam they founded little settlements. -Holland was a land of liberty, and the Puritans wanted the right to -disagree, non-conform, argue and debate over disputed questions. There -were several congregations of them, and they did not agree on important -doctrines, such as whether John the Baptist’s hair was parted on the -side or in the middle. Public debates were held and great enjoyment -therefrom resulted, although there is no record of anyone having his -opinion changed by the arguments, and the side whose story you are -reading always overcame the other. - -The Puritans did not mix much with the Dutch, and naturally grew -lonesome in their exile. They conceived the plan of emigrating to the -New World and there establishing the right to worship God in accord -with their own conscience. Influential Puritans in England who had not -been so cranky as to leave home, helped with the king, and finally -they secured permission from James to settle in America and to own the -land they should develop. James remarked at the time he would prefer -that they go to Hell, where they belonged, but he was needing a loan -from the English Puritans, so he gave the permit. The Puritans in old -England also provided a good part of the money with which to fit out -the expedition. At the time there was a general movement among the -Puritans in England for a big migration to the New World. This was -to be a sort of experiment station. At the time, James was king, and -Charles, a dissolute prince, was to follow. The Puritans were sick -at heart and ready to leave their native land. But soon after the -Pilgrims had made their settlement in New England, the Puritans at -home developed leaders who put them into the fight for Old England. -Then along came Cromwell, and for many years English Puritans were -running the government, and the necessity for a safe place across the -sea and an asylum for religious liberty disappeared so far as they -were concerned, though their interest in the Colonists was maintained. -The sons of these Puritans who crossed the ocean rather than go to the -established church, refused to pay a tax on tea, about 150 years later, -and formed a new country with a new flag. That was part of the result -of the sailing of the little company from Rev. Mr. Robinson’s flock -after a night spent in prayer in this town of Delftshaven, just about -this time of the year in 1620. - - * * * * * - -The stay of the Puritans in Holland had no effect on the Dutch. They -let the Puritans shoot their mouths any way they pleased, and the -Puritan only prospers and proselytes on opposition. But the Dutch of -the present day are getting good returns for that investment of long -ago. There are a dozen places in Holland, here and at Amsterdam and -Leyden, visited by Americans every year because they are historic -spots in connection with the Pilgrims. At each and every place the -contribution-box is in sight, and the Dutch church or town which -owns the property gets a handsome revenue. New England churches give -liberally to the fixing up of the Dutch churches which can show a -record of having been just once the place where some Puritan preached. - - * * * * * - -Wooden shoes have not gone out of style in Holland. They are still -worn generally in the country, and by the poorer children and men -in the cities. They are cheap, which is a big recommendation to the -Dutch. They are warm, said to be much warmer than leather. It does not -hurt them to be wet, a very desirable feature in this water-soaked -country. These are all good reasons, and as soon as you get used to the -clatter and the apparent awkwardness you appreciate the fact that the -“klompen,” as the Dutch call them, are a reasonable style for Holland. -They are not worn in the house but dropped in the entryway, and house -shoes or stocking feet go within. The Dutch farmer is proud of his -clogs, paints them, carves them, and scrubs them. A man with idle time, -like a fisherman, will often spend months decorating a pair of wooden -shoes. They are considered a proper present from a young husband to -his bride, and she will use them when scrubbing, which is a good part -of the time. The shoes are generally made of poplar, and to the size -of the foot. When the foot grows you can hollow out a little more -shoe. Wooden shoes are as common here as overalls in America, and they -will not grow less popular unless Holland goes dry--of which I see no -indication. - - * * * * * - -The farm-houses are usually built in connection with the barns, the -family living in front and the stock and feed occupying the rear. -This is rather customary in cold climates, and you must remember that -Holland is farther north than Quebec. The winters get very cold and the -canals and rivers freeze over. Skating is the great national sport. -There does not seem to be much summer sport except scrubbing. All -through the summer the people dig and weed and fertilize and prepare -for market. The dikes and canals must be maintained and the best -made of a short season. In the winter they can live with the pretty -black-and-white cattle, the sheep and the horses, and have a good time. - - - - -Amsterdam, and Others - -AMSTERDAM, July 27 - - -This is the largest and most important city of Holland. It has about -as much commerce as Rotterdam, and is longer on history, manufactures, -art, and society. It was the first large city built up on a canal -system, and its 600,000 population is a proof that something can be -built out of nothing. Along about 1300 and 1400 it was a small town -in a swamp. When the war for independence from Spain began, in 1656, -Amsterdam profited by its location on the Zuyder Zee. The Spaniards -ruined most of the rival towns and put an end to the commerce of -Antwerp for a while, and Amsterdam received the mechanics and merchants -fleeing from the soldiers of Alva. The name means a “dam,” or dike, on -the Amstel river. The swamp was reclaimed from the water by dikes and -drainage canals, but even now every house in the city must have its -foundation on piles. The word dam, or its inclusion in a name, means -just about what it does in English, provided you refer to the proper -dam, not the improper damn. As nearly all of the Dutch towns are built -on dam sites a great many of them are some-kind-of-a-dam. Amsterdam -is built below the level of the sea, which is just beside it, and the -water in the canals is pumped out by big engines and forced over the -dike into the sea. If this were not done the water would come over the -town site and Amsterdam would go back to swamp and not be worth a dam -site. - - * * * * * - -Amsterdam is the chief money market of Holland, and one of the -financial capitals of the world. It is the place an American promoter -makes for when he is out after the stuff with which to make the female -horse travel. A large part of its business men are Jews, and their -ability and wealth have maintained the credit of Dutch interests in -all parts of the globe. At a time when the Jews were being persecuted -nearly everywhere they were given liberty in Holland, and much of the -country’s progress is due to that fact and to the religious toleration -of all kinds of sects. - -The canals run along nearly all the streets, and are filled with -freight-boats from the country and from other cities. Thousands of -these canal boats lie in the canals of Amsterdam and are the homes -of the boatmen, who are the commerce carriers of Holland. Under our -window is tied up a canal-boat which could carry as much freight as a -dozen American box cars. The power is a sail or a pole or a man or a -woman, whichever is most convenient. The boatman and his wife and ten -or fifteen children, with a dog and a cat, live comfortably in one end, -and we can watch them at their work and play. A dozen more such boats -are lying in this block, some with steam engines and some with gasoline -engines. The Standard Oil Company does a great business in Holland, and -as usual is a great help to the people. It is introducing cheap power -for canal-boats by means of proper engines, and in a short time will -probably free the boatman and his wife from the pull-and-push system -received from the good old days. - -The canals are lined with big buildings, business and residence, mostly -from four to six stories high, with the narrow, peaked and picturesque -architecture made familiar to us by the pictures. All kinds of color -are used and ornamented fronts are common. Imagine a street such as -I describe and you have this one that is under our hotel window and -which is the universal street scene of Amsterdam. Some one called this -the Venice of the North, but to my mind it is prettier than Venice, -although it lacks some of the oriental architecture and smell. - - * * * * * - -Last night we went to the Rembrandt theatre to see “The Mikado,” in -Dutch. Of course we could follow the music of the old-time friend, and -the language made the play funnier than ever. The Dutch are not near so -strong on music as are their German or French neighbors. They utilize -compositions of other nations, and American airs are very common. The -window of a large fine music store is playing up “Has Anybody Here Seen -Kelly?” A few Americans were at the big garden Krasnapolsky, listening -to a really fine orchestra with an Austrian leader. We sent up a -request for the American national air and it came promptly: “Whistling -Rufus.” The Europeans think the cake-walk is something like a national -dance in our country, and whenever they try to please us they turn -loose one of our rag-time melodies. They do not mind chucking the -“Georgia Campmeeting” or “Rings on My Fingers and Bells on My Toes,” -into a program of Wagner and Tschudi and other composers whom we are -taught at home to consider sacred. - - * * * * * - -The most entertaining feature of the Amsterdam landscape that I have -seen is a Dutch lady in a hobble skirt. The fashion is here all right, -and it would make an American hobble appear tame and common. In the -first place, the Dutch lady is not of the proper architecture, and in -the second place, she still wears a lot more underskirts, or whatever -they are, than are considered necessary in Paris or Hutchinson. But she -does not expand the hobble. The shopping street of Amsterdam is filled -with fashionably dressed Dutch ladies who look like tops, and who are -worth coming a long ways to see. Far be it from me to criticize the -freaks of female fashion. I never know what they are until after they -are past due. But if the Dutch hobble ever reaches the American side -of the Atlantic it will be time for the mere men to organize. - - * * * * * - -The greatest art gallery in Europe is here, The Rijks Museum. I went to -see it--once. I do not get the proper thrills from seeing a thousand -pictures in thirty minutes. They make me tired. But Rembrandt’s Night -Watch, or nearly anything a good Dutch artist has painted, is a real -pleasure. The Dutch are recognizing their own modern art, and in that -way they are going to distance the Italians. The Dutch artists are -good at portraying people and common things, such as cats and dogs and -ships. They are not strong in allegory or imaginative work, and you do -not have to be educated up to enjoy them. And they run a little fun -into their work occasionally, which would shock a Dago artist out of -his temperament. - - * * * * * - -Wages are higher in Holland than elsewhere in Europe. A street car -conductor gets a dollar a day. Ordinary labor is paid sixty to eighty -cents a day. Farm laborer about $15 per month, but boards himself. A -good all-around hired girl is a dollar a week. Mechanics receive from -one dollar to two dollars a day. The necessaries of life are not so -high as with us. Vegetables are cheaper. Tobacco is much less. Meats -are about as high. Clothing is cheaper, but our people wouldn’t wear -it. Beer is two cents a glass and lemonade is five cents. The ordinary -workingman lives on soup, vegetables, and very little meat; gets a new -suit of clothes about once in five years, and takes his family to a -garden for amusement, where they get all they want for ten cents. The -Dutch citizen on foot is plain, honest, a little rude, but of good -heart and very accommodating. I have not met the citizens in carriages -and on horseback, who make up a very small part of the procession in -Holland. - - - - -Cheeses and Bulbses - - - ALKMAAR, July 28. - -Of course Holland is the greatest cheese country on earth, and Alkmaar -is the biggest cheese market in Holland. Every Friday the cheesemakers -of the district bring their product to the public market, and buyers, -local and foreign, bargain for and purchase the cheeses. That is -why we came to Alkmaar on Friday. The cheese market is certainly an -interesting and novel sight. All over the big public square are piled -little mounds of cheeses, shaped like large grape-fruit and colored in -various shades of red and yellow. Each wholesaler has his carriers in -uniform of white, and a straw hat and ribbons colored as a livery. When -a sale is made, two carriers take a barrow which they carry suspended -from their shoulders and with a sort of two-step and many cries to get -out of the way they bring their load to the public weigh-house, where -it is officially weighed. Then off the cheeses go to the store-rooms -or to the canal-boats which line one side of the square, waiting to -take their freight to the cities or to the sea. The farmers look over -each other’s cheeses as they do hogs at the Kansas State Fair, with -comments of praise or criticism. There is much chaffing and chaffering -between them and the buyers. In about two hours the cheeses are gone, -the square is empty and the beer-houses are full. The women-folks do -not take an active part in the market, but they are present and looking -things over, and I suspect they had been permitted to milk the cows and -make the cheese. - -About $3,000,000 worth of cheese is sold annually in the Alkmaar -market. The country round about, North Holland, is all small farms, -with gardens and pastures and little herds of the black-and-white -cattle. The cheese wholesales at about 60 cents a cheese, and in -America we pay about twice that much for the same, or for the Edam, -which is like it. The farmers look prosperous, drive good horses and -very substantial gaily painted wagons. - -Alkmaar has 18,000 population, and is therefore about the size of -Hutchinson. But it is a good deal older. Back in 1573 it successfully -defended itself against the Spaniards. The name means “all sea,” -because the country was originally covered with water. The land is -kept above the water now by pumping and pouring into canals which -are higher than the farms through which they flow. This is done very -systematically and by windmills. A district thus maintained is called -a “polder,” something like our irrigation district, and on one of them -near Alkmaar, about the size of a Kansas township, six miles square, -there are 51 windmills working all the time, pumping the water. These -are not little windmills like those in a Kansas pasture, but great -fellows with big arms fifty feet long, and they stand out over the -polder like so many giants. The picture of these mills in a most -fertile garden-spot, with canal streaks here and there and boats on the -canals looming up above the land, is certainly a striking one. And it -shows clearly what energy can do when properly applied. - -The soil is as sandy as in South Hutchinson. But dirt and fertilizer -are brought from the back country and the soil is kept constantly -renewed. It seems to me that with comparatively little work the sandy -soil of the Arkansas valley can be made into a market garden, producing -many times its present value, whenever our people take it into their -heads to manufacture their own soil and apply water when needed and not -just when it rains. That time will come, but probably not until a dense -population forces a great increase in production. - - * * * * * - -I have another idea. Along the coast of Holland are the “sand dunes,” -which are exactly like our sand hills. What we should do is to change -the name from sand hills to “dunes,” brag about them and charge -people for visiting them. The city of Amsterdam gets its supply of -drinking-water from the dunes. This was important news to me, for it -confirmed my theory as to the similarity of the dunes and the sand -hills, and also suggested that somebody in Amsterdam used water for -drinking purposes, a fact I had not noticed while there. - - * * * * * - -We spent part of a day in Haarlem, where the tulips come from. The -soil conditions are like those at Alkmaar, but the country is a mass -of nurseries, flower gardens, and beautiful growing plants. We are -out of season for tulips, but this is the time when the bulbs are -being collected and dried to be shipped in all directions. Not only -tulips but crocuses, hyacinths, lilies, anemones, etc., are raised -for the market,--cut flowers to the cities, bulbs to all parts of the -world. Just now the gardens are filled with phlox, dahlias, larkspurs, -nasturtiums,--by the acre. The flowers are about the same as at -home. Out of this thin, scraggly, sandy soil the gardeners of North -Holland are taking money for flowers and bulbs faster than miners in -gold-fields. With flowers and cheeses these Dutch catch about all kinds -of people. - - * * * * * - -Haarlem is the capital of the province of North Holland, and is full -of quaint houses of ancient architecture. It was one of the hot towns -for independence when the war with Spain began. The Spaniards besieged -it, and after a seven months gallant defense, in which even the women -fought as soldiers, the town surrendered under promise of clemency. -The Spaniards broke their promise and put to death the entire garrison -and nearly all the townspeople. This outrage so incensed the Dutch in -other places that the war was fought more bitterly than before, and -the crime--for such it was--really aided in the final expulsion of the -Spaniards. - - * * * * * - -Along in the seventeenth century was the big boom in Haarlem. The tulip -mania developed and bulbs sold for thousands of dollars. Capitalists -engaged in the speculation and the trade went into big figures. -Millions of dollars were spent for the bulbs, and so long as the -demand and the market continued every tulip-raiser was rich. Finally -the reaction came, as it always does to a boom, and everybody went -broke. A bulb which sold for $5,000 one year was not worth 50 cents -the next. The government added to the confusion by decreeing that all -contracts for future deliveries were illegal. The usual phenomenon of -a panic followed, everybody losing and nobody gaining. A hundred years -later there was about the same kind of a boom in hyacinths, and the -same result. It will be observed that the Dutch are not so much unlike -Americans when it comes to booms, only it takes longer for them to -forget and calls for more experience. - - * * * * * - -Frans Hals, a great Dutch painter, almost next to Rembrandt, was born -in Haarlem, and a number of his pictures are in the city building. It -was customary in those days for the mayor and city council to have a -group picture painted and hung in the town hall. This was the way most -of the Dutch artists got their start, for the officials were always -wealthy citizens who were willing to pay more for their own pictures -than for studies of nature or allegory. I wonder if the officials paid -their own money or did they voucher it through the city treasury and -charge it to sprinkling or street work? - -Both Alkmaar and Haarlem are interesting because they are intensely -Dutch. Their principal occupations, cheesemaking and flower-raising, -have been their principal occupations for centuries. They had nothing -to start with and had to fight for that. Now they are loaning money to -the world. If the people of Kansas worked as hard as do the Dutch and -were as economical and saving, in one generation they would have all -the money in the world. But they wouldn’t have much fun. - -The American way of economizing may be illustrated by a story. Once -upon a time in a certain town--which I want to say was not in Kansas, -for I have no desire to be summoned before the attorney-general to tell -all about it--a man and his wife were in the habit of sending out every -night and getting a quart of beer for 10 cents. They drank this before -retiring, and were reasonably comfortable. Prosperity came to them, -and the man bought a keg of beer. That night he drew off a quart, and -as he sat in his stocking-feet he philosophized to his wife and said: -“See how we are saving money. By buying a keg of beer at a time this -quart we are drinking costs only 6 cents. So we are saving 4 cents.” -She looked at him with admiration, and replied: “How fine! Let’s have -another quart and save 4 cents more.” - - - - -Historic Leyden - - - LEYDEN, July 31. - -We came to Leyden to spend the night, and have stayed three days. This -was partly because it is necessary to sometimes rest your neck and -feet, and partly because the Hotel Levedag is one of those delightful -places where the beds are soft, the eats good and the help around the -hotel does its best to make you comfortable. Leyden itself is worth -while, but ordinarily it would be disposed of in two walks and a -carriage-ride. It is a college town, and this is vacation; so everybody -in the place has had the time to wait on wandering Americans and make -the process of extracting their money as sweet and as long drawn out as -possible. - - * * * * * - -Leyden is a good deal like Lawrence, Kansas. It is full of historic -spots, and is very quiet in the summer-time. In Leyden they refer to -the siege by the Spaniards in 1573 just as the Lawrence people speak -of the Quantrill raid. The Dutch were in their war for independence, -and the Duke of Alva’s army besieged Leyden. They began in October, and -as the town was well fortified it resisted bravely. Early in the year -the neighboring town of Haarlem had surrendered and the Spaniards had -tied the citizens back to back and chucked them into the river. The -Leydenites preferred to die fighting rather than surrender and die. -They had just about come to starvation in March of the next year, when -they decided to break down the dikes and let the sea take the country. -The sea brought in a relief fleet sent by William the Silent, Prince -of Orange, and the Spaniards retreated before the water. Then the wind -changed, drove back the waves, and William fixed the dikes. This siege -of Leyden was really one of the great events in history, and the story -goes that out of gratitude to the people of the town William offered to -exempt them from taxes for a term of years or to establish a University -in their city. Leyden took the University, which is hard to believe of -the Dutch, unless they were farseeing enough to know that the students -would be a never-ending source of income and that the taxes would come -back. The university thus established by William of Orange in 1575 -has been one of the best of the educational institutions in Europe, -and has produced many great scholars. It now has 1700 students and a -strong faculty. Some of the boys must be making up flunks by attending -summer school, for last night at an hour when all good Dutchmen should -be in bed, the sweet strains came through the odor of the canal, same -old tune but Dutch words: “I don’t care what becomes of me, while I am -singing this sweet melody, yip de yaddy aye yea, aye yea, yip-de yaddy, -aye yea.” - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: NO PLACE FOR A MAN FROM KANSAS] - -The river Rhine filters through Leyden and to the sea. It never would -get there, for Leyden is several feet below the sea-level, but by the -use of big locks the Dutch raise the river to the proper height and -pour it in. These are the dikes the Dutch opened to drive out the -Spaniards. It is so easy I wonder they did not do it earlier. At any -rate, the Spaniards never got much of a hold in this part of Holland -again. The sandhills along the beach make an ideal bathing-place. I -took a canal-boat and in three hours time covered the six miles from -Leyden to Katryk. The Dutch ladies and gentlemen were playing in the -water and on the sand, and it was no place for a man from Kansas. I -have no criticism of these big bathing-beaches and we have some in our -own fair land where the scenery is just as startling. But the Dutch -ladies consider a skirt which does not touch the ground the same as -immodest. And no Dutch gentleman will appear in public without his vest -as well as his coat. On the beach the reaction is great, so great that -I don’t blame the Spaniards for running away. - - * * * * * - -It was in Leyden that the congregation of Puritans resided which sent -the delegation of Pilgrim Fathers across the Atlantic in 1620. In St. -Peter’s church John Robinson, the pastor, lies buried, and there he -is said to have preached. A tablet tells of the house across the way -which occupies the site of the little church in which Robinson held -forth for years. The present house was not built until 1683, but -that is close enough to make it interesting. The Puritans had several -congregations in Leyden, but the Robinson church is the only one that -made history. When the civil war broke out in England and Cromwell was -leading the cause of liberty, all of the Puritans in Leyden who had -not gone to America and who could raise the fare, returned to England -and disappeared from the Dutch records. They were fine people in many -ways, but the Dutch did not try to get them to stay. They dearly loved -to argue, and when it was necessary to promote religious freedom by -punching the heads of those who did not believe as they did, the -Puritans were there with the punch. - - * * * * * - -Rembrandt, the great Dutch painter, was born in Leyden, in 1606. A -stable now marks the spot where he first saw the light. It is a little -difficult to get up a thrill in a livery stable, but we did our best. -Rembrandt’s father was a miller, and operated one of these big Dutch -windmills. When Rembrandt was about 25 years old he married and moved -to Amsterdam, but he did not settle down. While he became popular -and made a good deal of money, he was no manager and he spent like -a true sport. When his wife died he went broke, and lived the last -years of his life in a modest way. About 550 paintings are now known -and attributed to him, together with about 250 etchings and more than -a thousand drawings. His portrayals of expression and of lights and -shadows are the great points of excellence in his work, but he was a -master of every detail of the art. His pictures command more money than -those of any other artist, and to my notion he is the greatest of all -the great painters. Most of the other old fellows have left but few -masterpieces, while Rembrandt never did anything but great work. The -Dutch worship God, Rembrandt and William of Orange, and I never can -tell which comes first with them. - - * * * * * - -There is a hill in Leyden, eighty feet high and several hundred yards -around the base. It is well covered with trees, and was topped with a -fort in the good old days. Unfortunately, the buildings around it--for -it is in the middle of town--keep it from being seen at a distance. -People come from far and near to see the hill. It is as much of a -novelty in this part of Holland as a Niagara would be in Kansas. - - * * * * * - -The public market is a feature in every Dutch town, as it is in most -European countries. A large square is devoted to the purpose, and here -the fish, the vegetables and everything from livestock to second-hand -books is offered for sale. The square and the sidewalks are covered -with the market displays, the farmers, the fishermen, the buyers, and -the curious. There is only one small newspaper in this city of 60,000 -inhabitants, but I suppose everybody hears the news at the market. -It is better than a show, or an art gallery, or a cathedral, to see -the dickering, hear the talk and watch the people. The housewives -or their representatives are there with baskets and comments, and -the men of the town have some excuse to be around. Peasant costumes, -peculiar headdresses, large fat ladies, wooden shoes, and all the odd -and picturesque things that you can put into a landscape surrounded -by quaint buildings and a canal, are mixed in confusion and yet in -order. The colors which the painters put into their Holland pictures -are present, and the sturdy, thrifty, trafficking Dutch people are -there with the petticoats or the tobacco-smoke, which their sex calls -for under such circumstances. Here in Leyden, where a house less -than a hundred years old is a curiosity and where Dutch traditions -are held as sacred, we have enjoyed the wonderful nature-picture of -this moving market. And I might add that we have contributed greatly -to the hilarity of the occasion by our own peculiar appearance and -ways--peculiar from the view-point of the other fellow. - - - - -The Dutch Capital - - - THE HAGUE, Aug. 2. - -This is the capital of Holland and soon will be, in a way, of the -civilized world. The first international peace conference was held -here, followed by the establishment of an international tribunal to -decide disputes between nations, and now, thanks to President Taft’s -statesmanship, the nations are agreeing to arbitrate all differences, -and this Hague tribunal will doubtless be the court of last resort -for the world. The propriety of the selection of The Hague is not -questioned. Holland is a small nation, with practically no forts or -standing army or navy. It is not a factor in international politics, -and its own independence and integrity are guaranteed by the various -treaties between the nations. Its importance is commercial and not -political, it has no alliances, and occupies a unique position among -the countries of Europe. Paris or London or Berlin would not do for -the location of an international tribunal, because each would be -subject to local influence and force, but all nations can come to The -Hague, the capital of the country whose territory they have promised to -protect. As the arbitration treaties increase in number the practice of -referring disputes to The Hague will become almost universal, and it -seems to me that this will make the beautiful Dutch city the capital of -the world. Other cities will strive for commercial supremacy, but The -Hague will be the center for statesmanship and government. - - * * * * * - -The Dutch have abbreviated the old name S’Gravenhage to Den Haag, and -they pronounce the name of the capital just as we do the word hog. The -old word meant “The Count’s Hedge” or wood, because there was a small -forest here belonging to the Counts of Holland. The forest is still -here, a beautiful piece of natural woods about a mile and a half long -and half as wide. At the farther end of this forest is “The House in -the Wood,” which is in fact a beautiful little palace built in 1645 -by Princess Amalia, the widow of Prince Frederick Henry of Orange. -Amalia had a new idea in memorials, for the principal room of the -palace, the orange room, is decorated by pictures from the brushes of -pupils of Rubens, and while they portray scenes in the life of the -Prince they are full of fat cherubs, scantily dressed ladies and very -racy suggestion. I am told Amalia was that way, but I have no personal -knowledge. All this happened nearly 300 years ago, and in any event -she had a most charming palace. Several rooms are filled with gifts -from the Emperors of China and Japan to Wilhelmina, and they add to the -general hilarity of the memorial. - - * * * * * - -Although The Hague was the center of the Dutch government practically -all the time from 1584, when the representatives of the Dutch provinces -met here to form a League against Spain, it had no representation in -the government until the last century. The original cities in the -federation refused to admit The Hague, and it was a sort of District -of Columbia until Napoleon took possession of Holland on the theory -that it was formed from the deposits of dirt made by French rivers. -Napoleon gave The Hague a local government, which it has since -retained. It has grown much in late years, and is a beautiful city with -good architecture, many wide streets, fine public buildings, handsome -private homes, pretty canals, and shaded avenues. It is a custom in -Holland and the Dutch colonies for men of wealth to come to The Hague, -put up fine houses and spend some of their money, just as the “town -farmers” do in Hutchinson. - - * * * * * - -We went to see the Gevangenpoort, an ancient tower in which prisoners -were confined, tortured and executed. They still keep some of the -interesting machines with which justice was dealt out in the good old -days. A prisoner whom the authorities desired to convict would be -allowed to prove his innocence by the ordeal of fire. He was permitted -to walk with bare feet on a red hot gridiron. If he was innocent the -heat would not affect his naked soles, if guilty it would. But that is -nothing. Our own dear old Pilgrim fathers used to take a woman charged -with witchcraft and toss her into a pond. If she were a witch, the evil -spirit would keep her from drowning and the Puritans would put her to -death. If she drowned, her innocence of the charge was proven--and -they buried her in the churchyard. - -The Dutch got their early ideas of prison reform from the Spaniards. -There is a machine in the Gevangenpoort which dropped water onto a -man’s head for hours. If he lived he was crazy. Then they had a 1611 -model of a rack which would break the bones in the arms and legs and -not kill the prisoner, and he could be tortured later. Pincers to pull -out finger-nails, branding-irons, and stocks that kept a man or a -woman standing on the toes for hours, were light punishments for petty -thievery. A very popular form of punishment was to hang the prisoner by -his feet, head down, and let the populace come in and enjoy the sight. -Of course these old instruments are mere relics now, but just remember -they were the real thing only 300 years ago, and 300 years is not long -in the history of the world. We never think that it was just as long -between 1311 and 1611 as it has been from 1611 to now. We confusedly -jumble all the events of about 500 years into “Middle Ages,” and can’t -remember which was in which century. The last 300 years seem long and -full of events, while the three centuries before are remembered as all -of one time. I wonder if the people on earth in 2211 will look over -some Gevangenpoort of ours and shudder at the savagery of 1911? - - * * * * * - -Incidentally I want to report that the people of Europe are looking on -President Taft as the great man of the age--I mean the great common -people are. His successful advocacy of international arbitration is -hailed as the coming of an era of peace. You don’t know what that means -to Europe, where nearly every man has to give years of his life to army -service, where heavy taxes for forts and ships bear down on the people, -and where there is always a possibility of war with a neighboring -nation, which would mean great loss of life. Nearly all of this war -sacrifice falls upon the people, and while they patriotically sustain -their governments they hail Taft’s policy of peace as the greatest -help that has come to them in countless years, the advance step that -will relieve the burden that bends the back of what Mr. Bryan calls -“the plain common people.” No wonder these people are for Taft but of -course they can’t vote for him in 1912. - - * * * * * - -The government of Holland is a sort of aristocratic republic with -a monarch for ornament. There is a lower house of congress elected -by popular vote, with some restrictions as to property on the right -of suffrage. There is an upper house selected with still more -restrictions. The upper house only can introduce bills. The lower -house only can enact them into laws. The queen signs when the Dutch -congress, or states-general, tells her to sign. She gets a salary of -about $400,000 a year and is rich in her own right. The business men -complain that she is stingy and the women say she is slouchy. Taxes are -high, and in all the forms imaginable. They tax theatre tickets, bank -checks, receipts, all documents, incomes and lands, and in some places -the number of windows in a house. Taxes are “high” everywhere I go. I -thought perhaps when I got where I could not understand the language I -would no longer be bored by the man who complains about taxes. But I -have not yet found that place. I suppose when I quit traveling on this -earthly sphere the first thing I will hear will be a kick on the cost -of paving the golden streets, or a complaint that the tax on sulphur is -going to kill the prosperity of the country. - - - - -“The Dutch Company.” - - - ARNHEM, August 5th. - -This is the “last chance” station in Holland. About ten miles more and -we cross the line into Germany. This is also the only hilly part of -Holland, and it really is a surprise to find that somewhere in this -little country there are neither canals nor dikes. The river Rhine -flows here with some current, and the official documents say that at -Arnhem it is 35 feet above the level of the sea. Right sharp little -hills, as big as those about Strong City, rise from the river bank, and -are covered with woods and handsome homes. Queen Wilhelmina has her -summer residence near here, and Dutch colonials, who have made their -fortunes and returned to the native land, are fond of this small and -elevated piece of Netherland. The Dutch make a great deal of money out -of their East India colonies, one of which is Java. They are not so -much interested in preparing the Javanese or the Mochans for the work -of self-government as our folks are the Filipinos. The Dutch theory -is to treat the natives kindly but make them work as the dogs do in -Holland. And the Javanese or the Javans, or whatever you call them, -are too busy to get dissatisfied and plan revolutions. This question -of what to do with the white man’s burden is a hard one to settle -offhand. The brown people do not understand the American motives, and -the Americans are probably the most detested people in the Orient. -And yet the Americans are the only conquering nation which does not -regard colonies as personal property and which tries to elevate the -citizenship it finds. The English hold India by fear, but some day the -English are going to be chased out of that part of Asia by the Indians -they try to keep down. The other European nations make no bones of the -fact that they own and operate their foreign possessions for what they -can get out of them. - - * * * * * - -A Hollander makes a very strong American when he is caught young. On -shipboard I made the acquaintance of a young man about 25 years old who -had been in America nine years, and was now going to his birthplace, -The Hague, on business for the Chicago firm with which he is connected. -I met him in The Hague this week. He wore a western cowboy hat, had a -small American flag in his button-hole, and wore no vest. The stories -he was telling about the United States to his Dutch friends showed that -he would have made a success as a real-estate man if he had settled -in western Kansas. And the manner in which he did not take off his -hat when he met a doctor or a lawyer or a duke or a notary public was -shocking to his family, but was sweet American patriotism to him. He -was still loyal to Holland, but he would not trade his new home with -its opportunities for all the comforts of canals and clean streets. -“You see,” he said, “in Holland every man has to take off his hat to -those above him--and there are always those above him.” Of course we -have classes, in a way, in our country, but a man never has to take -off his hat or pay homage to another man, and the real American, -home-grown or imported, can’t get that feeling of equality out of his -system. I think the Europeans must grow very tired of us Americans, our -blustering ways and bragging talk, but they are kind enough not to -mention it so long as our money holds out. - - * * * * * - -Passenger fares on trains are cheaper in Holland than with us. But of -course their railroad business is really like an interurban street-car -system. Freight rates are higher than with us. The wages paid railway -employés run from 60 cents a day to section hands up to $2 a day for an -engineer--just about one-third to one-half our schedule. The service -is good, the stations and tracks are better, every little country -road-crossing is protected by a flagman or a flagwoman. Of course the -canals and rivers do so much of the carrying business, and distances -are so small, that comparisons are hard to make. There is no such thing -in Holland as a sandwich or a piece of pie, and yet there are very -successful and excellent lunch-rooms in every station. The first-and -second-class passengers usually have a lunch-room with upholstered -furniture, while the third-class travelers are compelled to use wooden -benches or stand up, a la Americaner. The first-class railroad cars are -fitted out with plush, and there are sometimes toilet accommodations -on the cars. The second-class cars are comfortably upholstered; the -third-class have plain seats like our street cars. But remember you can -go clear across Holland in a couple of hours, and do not need some of -the comforts which are considered necessities in America. - - * * * * * - -The Dutch are great on fixing things comfortably and neatly. If the -beautiful Cow Creek which winds its way through Hutchinson were -transferred to a Dutch town it would be diked, the banks graded and -covered with grass and flowers and trees. The government would do this, -and would put seats along the little park, and a band-stand from which -music would be heard, and swings for the children, and almost every -block there would be a “garden” with tables and all the beer you could -drink--if you were Dutch--for two cents. And the Government would make -a nice profit out of the restaurant business and go ahead and dike -another stream. - - * * * * * - -The Dutchman is a great business man. He works and saves and then -he is not afraid to spend--if he has a sure thing. I have seen a -business man smoking a cigarette, take out of his vest pocket a pair -of scissors, snip off the burning end and put the unconsumed half of -a cigarette back in his case. No Dutchman is afraid to demand cheap -prices while traveling at home. The average American who goes through -Europe with the theory of spending his money like a sport must fill -the Dutchman with disgust. You don’t impress the Hollanders that way. -On the other hand, these Dutchmen will investigate and spend barrels -of money on dikes, drains, railroads, buildings and large investments -in all parts of the world. I suppose the almost penurious saving comes -from the fight with the sea, in which everything had to be watched and -worked for, while the ability to handle big affairs results from the -consciousness of having wrested a lot of land from the ocean and having -made good with it. - - * * * * * - -The Dutch are proverbially honest. Of course I have been over-charged -some, but I have never been anywhere on either side of the Atlantic -where the rule was not observed, “he was a stranger and I took him -in.” They hold a visitor up much more in Kansas City than in Amsterdam, -and a man from Kansas who goes to New York is not even given the -protection of the game laws. In fact, a stranger who does not know -the language is treated much better in Europe than in America. I have -often had a man walk half a block to show me the way when I could not -understand his words. I say “walk a block,” but there is no such phrase -in Dutch. There are no regular sized blocks, so a direction is given -as “five minutes” or “two minutes, then to the right three minutes.” -That is supposed to mean an average walk; but as legs differ in size -and rapidity it is often confusing. I am told in the rural districts -a distance is given as so many smokes, meaning the number of pipefuls -of tobacco that a Dutchman would consume in going that far. But I have -discovered that in Holland a pipe is a rarity. The men smoke cigars and -smoke them incessantly. They are cheap. I get a good cigar, equivalent -to a Tom Moore, for two cents American money. When I buy cigars I want -to stay in Holland. But practically everything except cigars, beer and -wooden shoes costs as much here as in the United States. Yes, there is -one thing that costs less, and that is labor. Therefore hand-carved -wood, hand-crocheted lace, hand-made shoes, tailored clothes, and -houses are less expensive than with us. The more I see of a country -where everything labor produces is cheap, the more I am in favor of -high prices and good wages. Holland is probably the best country in -Europe for a laboring man, but I don’t see how one can get ahead, -unless he does without meat and wears the same suit for years, and his -family economize the same way. Here in the land of cheese and butter, -both articles are out of reach and the workingman uses “margarine.” - -But now it is goodby to the land of the dikes, the canals, the -windmills and the wooden shoes. They are all here as advertised, and -they color the lives of the people as they do the landscape of the -country. To the eye they are artistic and beautiful, but in practice -they are common, plain necessities, and in these signs the Dutch have -conquered. - - - - -The Great River - - - KOENIGSWINTER, GERMANY, August 7. - -The river Rhine is in many respects the greatest river in the world. -It is greatest in commercial importance, historical interest and -artistic development. It has been the line of battle in Europe for -centuries, since Cæsar first crossed the stream and met the original -Germans. After that time it was the frontier of the Roman empire until -Rome fell, and then it became the object for which Europe fought. -The Germans and the French met on the Rhine, the other “civilized -countries” got in the game, and the valley was filled with feudal -counts and princes who sometimes took one side and sometimes the other, -whichever seemed to offer them the best pickings. The broad and deep -stream was a highway of commerce, and the old champions of chivalry, -with whom robbery and murder were the principal business, built -castles on the hills, and whenever they saw a merchant with a rich -caravan of goods, down they would swoop on him, grab his valuables -and kill the defenders. These adventures and wars were what the world -called history, and during the Middle Ages the place where hell was -continually breaking out was along this beautiful valley. The use of -gunpowder finally put an end to knights in armor, and the Germans and -the French struggled for the Rhine. Napoleon conquered the valley, -organized it into a republic, and finally annexed it to France. The -Allies conquered Napoleon and restored the Prussian king and the petty -princes to their possessions. The war of 1870 between Germany and -France pushed the boundary a considerable distance west, and made the -Rhine valley all German, under the newly organized empire. - - * * * * * - -Most rivers begin in a small way, from springs, creeks and little -streams. The Rhine is the outlet of Lake Constance, and rushes out of -that inland sea a great river ready-made, and begins with a magnificent -waterfall second only to Niagara. It is a wide, deep river, and as -soon as it emerges from the Swiss mountains becomes the great highway -through Germany and Holland to the ocean. Along its banks are timber, -coal and iron, great cities with factories, and fertile lands tilled -to the utmost point. The freight rate is the lowest possible, and the -productive value of the country is increased by the ease and cheapness -with which the markets of the world are reached. Steamboats and barges -go up and down in much greater numbers than do the freight trains of -America’s greatest railroad. For much of its length the banks are -walled, and the cities, towns and villages are almost continuous. In -width the river is from 500 to 1500 feet, and it is about 550 miles -long. The last 360 miles, from Manheim to the German ocean, has a -channel of not less than thirty feet in depth, and in that 360 miles -the fall is only 280 feet, the last hundred miles only 33 feet. - - * * * * * - -So much for the Rhine from a business viewpoint. This little town -of Koenigswinter is on “the picturesque Rhine,” at the foot of the -Drachenfels, the last of the big hills or mountains by which the Rhine -flows in its course from Manheim to Cologne. We stopped at the little -city of Bonn, seat of a good university, and an old town. Beethoven -was born in Bonn, and we visited the little house he selected for that -event in his life. It was most interesting to see the things used by -the great composer, among them the original drafts of many of his great -works. Beethoven’s folks were poor, and when only a boy he played the -pipe organ at the church and was in the Bonn string band. When 22 years -of age he went to Vienna, where he was taken care of financially by the -Austrian emperor. He never married. He and a countess fell in love with -each other, but her folks did not approve of her marrying a musician. -Beethoven’s father sang tenor and his grandfather had led the Bonn -brass band, and Beethoven himself was giving lessons. So they could not -marry, though I don’t see why the countess did not arrange it later -when Beethoven became famous. But he was very deaf and probably very -cranky, for he was a great musician, and perhaps the Lady Amelia backed -out herself. - - * * * * * - -This is what is called the picturesque Rhine, for here the river runs -through some German mountains, which rise almost abruptly from the -banks. The mountain-sides are cultivated as we do first-bottom land. -The principal product is the grape, which gets just the proper sunlight -on these mountain-sides to make its juice command more money than the -wine from the back country. There are also many truck farms, small -pastures, patches of alfalfa and wheat, all tilted up from the river -at an angle of 45 to 90 degrees. The roads are good and white, the -fields just now are green, the sky is a blue like the sky in Italy and -Kansas. The little towns with their white-washed houses and red-tiled -roofs cluster every mile or so along the river, and the view from the -mountains or from the river is one that makes the tickle come around -the heart. In this beautiful spot where nature and man have both been -busy for so many hundred years we are spending a few days for rest. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: THE POET BYRON BUILDING CASTLES] - -Of course I climbed the Drachenfels, the mountain which looms up like a -sentinel and has on its top a ruined castle with a view and a legend. -Byron told of the great view, and every tourist who stops has to climb -the mountain. So we climbed. Mr. Byron was right this time, for the -view is grand. Ordinarily I take little stock in Byron’s fits over -scenery. He traveled through Europe and had thrills over some very -ordinary things. Byron could take a few drinks and then reel off some -verses which gave an old ruin or a tumble-down castle a reputation -which it will use forever as a bait for tourists. But this time Byron -was right, for the panorama of the Rhine valley, made up of the river, -the hills, the sky, the shades of growing green, the white-and-red -towns, and the boats as noiseless as birds, is one worth more than the -twenty-five American cents it takes to make the climb on a cog-wheel -railroad. - - * * * * * - -The ruined castle, which stands about 1,000 feet above the Rhine and -yet so near it seems that one could throw a stone from the parapet -into the river, was occupied by a line of the fiercest gentlemen that -ever robbed an innocent traveler. For several hundred years no one was -safe to go this way unless he paid the robber barons, who had a sort -of confederacy or union, in which the Count of Drachenfels was one of -the main guys. The name means the dragon’s rock, and comes from the -fact that a Dragon once resided in a cave near the top. The legend says -that it was customary among the old heathen to feed prisoners to the -Dragon, so he would look pleasant and not roar at night. Returning from -a trip into the west they brought a number of captives, among them a -beautiful Christian maiden. The heathen young men all wanted the girl, -so the wise chief decided that she should be given to the Dragon, thus -preventing a scrap among the brethren and paying special tribute to the -Drag. They formed a procession and marched to the big rock where they -were accustomed to lay out provisions for his nibs. The beautiful girl -was bound hand and foot, covered with flowers, and then the crowd got -back to see the Dragon do the rest. The Dragon came out roaring like a -stuck pig, but when the girl held out a crucifix toward him he bolted, -ran and jumped from the rock into the river. The best-looking young man -among the heathen then rushed forward and released the lady, married -her, and they lived happily ever afterward,--so the legend says. And -there is no reason to doubt the legend, for there is the rock, there is -the river into which the Dragon leaped, and he never did come back. - - - - -Along the Rhine - - - KOENIGSWINTER, August 8. - -Next to riding on a Dutch canal comes a trip on the Rhine. The -passenger steamers and motor-boats go up and down this part of the -Rhine like street cars. Every boat is comfortably equipped with -refreshment parlors and restaurants, and the waiters keep trying -to please the thirsty traveler by offering him wine and beer. It -is hard on a Kansan. What these Germans need is a governor and an -attorney-general and a row over the joint question. Poor Germans! they -do not know it, and they keep right on drinking beer and growing fat -and looking happy. Aside from this unfortunate habit, which does not -seem to hurt them as it ought to, the Germans are a fine lot of folks. -They are immensely proud of their country, which is a trifle hard on us -modest Americans. They really believe Germany can lick the world, and -they have a notion that there is no nation so progressive as theirs. -In some respects they are right, and in many phases of business and -scientific advancement the Germans lead the world. - -I am inclined to attribute this to their public-school system, which -is superior to ours in some respects. Without going into an extended -argument on the subject, I will explain my reason for this opinion. -The German system of education is very rigid for the boys and girls. -The discipline in the common schools is military. The children go to -school more months in the year and they are compelled to learn. There -is no foolishness, no excuses from fond parents, no late parties, no -indifference, no any-thing-to-get-through. The German teachers are not -content with getting the children to pass, but they insist they shall -_know_ their studies. This severe training is kept up until the boy -or girl goes to the university, and then discipline is relaxed and -he or she can do about as they please so far as personal conduct is -concerned. In America the parents and the government let the little -folks do as they please outside of short school hours, and then tighten -up the in high school and university. Our scheme doesn’t work well. -Our grade schools turn out indifferent scholars and boys and girls -who have not been trained to study. Our course of study is fixed to -make it easy, when every one knows that hard work is needed to develop -character. If the Germans go ahead of the Americans in the next -generation it will be because their school system is better than ours, -because it trains the children better for the work to come. The Germans -think just as much of their children as do the Americans of theirs, -but they do not spoil them,--which is a great American fault and which -counts against the children ever afterward. - - * * * * * - -We rode on the boat to Godesberg, and Rolandseck and Heisterbach, -and Johannisberg, and Niersteiner, and all the other places which -are recorded on the wine-card at a Kansas City hotel. The very names -are enough to make a Kansas man file an information with the county -attorney. Each town has its brand of wine, its old castles, its -flourishing business, its comfortable hotels, and its legends of olden -times. Most of the legends tell of the triumph of True Love, but here -is an exception: - - * * * * * - -An old knight whose castle at Schoenberg was an important place in the -feudal system of tax collection, had seven beautiful daughters. He -died; these seven girls ruled in the castle, and all they cared for -was a good time. They went hunting, gave late supper parties, and were -much talked about; but their beauty and the castle of their inheritance -kept them popular with the men. Many knights asked them to marry, -but each and every suitor was given the merry ha-ha by the maiden he -sought. Knights even fought and killed each other, disputing as to the -merits of the sisters, and the ladies made such funerals the scenes of -great enjoyment. Finally the knights had a mass meeting, and resolved -that the seven sisters be required to select husbands. When this news -was conveyed to the sisters they said this was just what they wanted. -They proposed that they would give a picnic, to which all the would-be -husbands should be invited, and after lunch they would announce the -knights of their choice. The picnic day came, and it rained in the -morning as it always does on picnic days. The knights came with their -swords and their lunch-baskets and stood around throwing balls for the -cigars and shaking for the lemonade, until the skies cleared and it -was announced that the seven sisters would be in at once or as soon as -they had finished dressing. Then came another hour’s wait. Suddenly a -boat appeared around the bend, and in it were the Seven, all decked out -with big hats and rhinestone buckles. The eldest sister stood up in the -boat, screaming as it rocked, and said: “We don’t care to marry any of -you country jakes. We are going to Cologne to visit a cousin, and there -we propose to have a good time without being obliged to throw down some -knight who wants a bride and a meal ticket every so often.” The other -sisters joined in singing the old-time version of “Goodby, my lover, -goodby,” and the boat sailed for Cologne. The knights cussed, and laid -the blame onto each other; but suddenly a storm arose, and the boat -began to bob around in the waves. The seven sisters screamed, but it -did them no good. The boat upset, and all on board were drowned. - -This legend teaches flirtatious young ladies not to trifle with the -home boys. - -On the spot where the boat went under, seven pointed rocks appear above -the surface of the water even up to today. I saw them, and I guess that -proves the legend. - - * * * * * - -I have always believed that Kansas people make a mistake in neglecting -the legend crop. For example, a good legend about Elmdale Park in -Hutchinson would cause thousands of people to visit it and pay 10 cents -apiece, besides buying post-cards and printed copies of the beautiful -story, which might go something like this: - -Once upon a time there lived in the First Ward a man and his wife who -had an only daughter. They were the only father and mother she had, -so honors were about even on that point. They loved this Daughter so -much that when she grew up she was not taught to sew or to cook, but -to play the piano and to sing “Love Me and the World is Mine.” She was -very beautiful as she sat on the front porch reading the latest novel, -“The Soul of My Soul,” while her mother fried the beefsteak for supper. -Suitors came from far and near, one of them a brakeman on the Missouri -Pacific, and another an assistant chief clerk in a hash foundry. But -her choice fell upon a handsome young knight she met at Elmdale Park, -who wore an open-faced vest and a Brazilian diamond on his shirt front, -but who had quit school in order to go to work and then forgot about -it. He saw the clean home and he smelled the fried steak and thought -the young lady did it all, when in fact the young lady could not boil -an egg. They were married, and he at once came to live with his wife’s -folks. The old Father developed an unexpected trait, and insisted -that the Bridegroom should pay board, which he proudly refused to do, -took his bride and went to Wichita. There he was offered a position -as chamber-maid in a livery stable and the Girl found it necessary at -odd times to do the laundry work for a small boarding-house. Thus they -lived for nearly two years, when she borrowed a postage stamp and wrote -home: “I have a Divorce and two children.” The father and mother -promptly sent her enough money to pay her fare, and she returned to -the castle of her childhood. But she had learned a lesson. The next -time she got married she did not pick up a friend in Elmdale Park, but -made him show her his bank book and his receipt for dues in the Modern -Woodmen. At the place in Elmdale Park where she met her first soul-mate -she planted a cottonwood tree, which is there yet, and under its shade -lovers now meet, remember this legend and buy post-cards which tell the -story. - -[Illustration: THE HANDSOME KNIGHT SHE MET IN ELMDALE PARK] - - - - -In German Towns - - - COLOGNE, GERMANY, August 9. - -This is the big town of the lower Rhine country in Germany, though it -has rivals which may sometime take the title away. It is also the old -town, and there have been many hot times in its history. It was started -in the first century of the Christian era as a colony by Aggripina, -the mother of Nero, and a lot of Roman soldiers were given extra -rights for settling in the new town. A couple of hundred years later -a bridge was built across the Rhine, and Cologne became of commercial -importance. When Christianity was extended to this section it was made -the seat of a bishop and then of an archbishop. It grew rapidly and -was independent in its tendencies, so when the break-up came of the -old Roman empire it became a free city, and with some bossing by the -archbishop the people ruled, that is, the wealthier and more important, -a sort of aristocracy. Napoleon annexed Cologne to France, but when he -was overthrown the city was handed over to the king of Prussia, and -it has been Prussian ever since. In the last hundred years Cologne has -developed as the great jobbing and commercial city of this section. It -is full of quaint old houses, narrow streets, medieval architecture, -and has the best cathedral in Europe. Dutch and German cathedrals are -generally Protestant, but the Cologne cathedral is Catholic. When -the Reformation came the Lutherans especially enjoyed capturing a -cathedral, tearing down the images and statues, destroying all the -artistic beauty they could, and making the house of God as plain and -uncomfortable as possible. On the other hand, the Catholics believed in -beautifying and adorning their churches. The present-day Protestants -doubtless wish their predecessors had been less zealous and that the -beautiful decorations and paintings had not been defaced by whitewash. -The Cologne cathedral is the finest specimen of Gothic architecture in -the world. Of course it is in the shape of a cross, and is 157 yards -long, 94 yards wide, 201 feet to the roof, 357 feet to the tower over -the center, and the towers are 515 feet high. These figures give no -idea of the impressive and imposing interior; and the exterior, which -is a profusion of turrets, gargoyles, cornices, galleries and other -decorations, makes the visitor catch his breath as he looks at this -great structure. The foundation of this cathedral was laid in 1248 and -the work was completed thirty years ago; so there was no rush about the -job. - - * * * * * - -Twenty-five miles below Cologne is Düsseldorf, also on the Rhine, -and the place where the iron and coal development of Germany seeks -its market. You know what iron and coal did for Pittsburg, and it is -the same with Düsseldorf. It is the growing city of the section, and -threatens to pass Cologne. As Düsseldorf is largely modern, having -developed since the days of railroads and steel bridges, it has wide -streets, beautiful buildings, and its architecture is of the present -generation. Düsseldorf is noted for its municipal ownership, and is -often called a model city. The town owns the street cars, the light -system, the docks on the river, the water plant, a pawn-shop and a lot -of other things, including a couple of breweries. Municipal ownership -comes easier in the Old World than in the New. It was formerly the -custom of the government to own everything, and to lay out parks -and provide utilities for the people, who were then too poor to do -much themselves. So the modern European government, which is largely -popular, succeeds to the power of the ancient monarchical rule, and -provides the big things for the people. A strong-handed ruler who -can condemn private property, and wisely put the good of the entire -community above the property and welfare of individuals, does these -public works much better than our own municipal governments, which have -restricted powers and which have to do what the people want rather than -tell the people what they ought to do. Generally speaking the public -ownership of utilities is a good thing, provided the government has -the power and the integrity to do the business right. Düsseldorf has a -mayor and twelve salaried aldermen, a common council of 56 members, and -over 5,000 city employés. - - * * * * * - -One great difference between Germans and Americans is the regard in -which they hold the law. Unfortunately, our new civilization has -brought about a general feeling that the law is meant for the other -fellows and we obey it if we have to. For that reason it is easier -for a German municipality to manage business than it is for an -American--and especially for a Kansan. Imagine what would happen in -Hutchinson if the city owned a couple of breweries like the city of -Düsseldorf. The next spring election the candidates would be running on -the beer issue, and there would be all kinds of opinions. In Düsseldorf -they hire expert brewers, sell the product, and the city takes a good -profit. In Hutchinson the First Ward would be kicking because they -didn’t like the head brewer, the Sixth Ward would demand a reduction -in the price of beer, and the Third Ward would make the candidates -pledge themselves to another beer garden in the south part of town, -where it would be poor business. The final result would be that Mayor -Vincent and Dr. Winans and the rest of the commission would be charged -with favoritism and defeated for reëlection, and their successors -would make beer at a loss and nobody would be satisfied. The curse of -American municipal affairs is this playing of politics with every petty -question. The Germans take the wiser method of cutting out politics, -selecting their best men for public office, giving great respect to -them personally, and accepting the laws they enact. When the mayor of -Düsseldorf comes out for a walk everybody he meets takes off his hat -and salutes. In our country everybody the mayor meets has a kick about -something, and as for taking off his hat to the mayor--the American -citizen would see him in Halifax first. - - * * * * * - -A Kansas man, Clarence Price, of Pittsburg, stirred up all kinds of -trouble in the German empire recently. Price has a moving-picture show, -travel scenes and such, and is in Europe to get some of the best and -see the local color. He thought it would be a fine thing to compliment -the German army with a picture; so he had his machine at one of the -forts of Berlin taking views of the drill of an artillery squad. The -police saw him, and he nearly spent the night in the Hotel de Jail. It -was all the American Consul and the Associated Press could do to save -him, for the police believed he was a French spy, and as they could -not understand the Pittsburg language and Price could not talk their -German, it was only with difficulty that he got word to his friends and -was finally released. A German jail is not fitted up for pleasure and -comfort, but to make people sorry they get there, and as the picture -machine had been confiscated there was not even the consolation for -the Kansas showman of being able to present to the American public the -sight of German justice administered on the spot. - - * * * * * - -Everywhere in Germany the load the people are carrying is militarism. -The young men of the country lose several of the best years of their -life in their army service, and heavy taxes burden business and -industry. The people are patriotic, and this army is necessary, for -there is always the prospect of a war, and of course they want to lick -the other fellow. But the newspapers are praising Taft and urging that -arbitration and disarmament are practicable if the course marked out by -the United States is followed. It makes an American really proud of his -country and his President when he hears the praise that is everywhere -bestowed on both for taking the lead in the most important movement -of the times. There has been a marked change in sentiment toward -Americans among the educated and upper classes the last few years. -The poor people always were strong for us. But the business men and -the newspapers, as well as the brass collars, sneered at Americans as -mere money-makers. McKinley brought the change when the United States -jumped into a war with Spain to help Cuba. Dewey at Manila pounded -it into their heads with language the Europeans could understand. -Roosevelt’s dashing policies and his stand for peace between Japan and -Russia impressed them wonderfully. And now Taft’s policy of arbitration -instead of war is receiving the commendation of uppers and lowers, -and they recognize the statesmanship in the treaties. To use one of -Roosevelt’s favorite words, it is bully to be an American and travel -in Europe, just to see how much better it is at home and to feel the -respect paid to our great nation and its leaders. - - - - -Arriving in Paris - - - PARIS, August 11. - -Paris is a good deal like a circus, a three-ringed one which strains -the rubber in your neck trying to see all you can before the acts -change. Even the arrival is theatrical. As the train pulled into the -Gare du Nord, after making the last forty-five miles in fifty-five -minutes, I passed our hand baggage out through the open car window to -a porter, and, going out the door myself, told him in a confident tone -“voiture,” which is the foolish French word for cab. He understood, -piloted us through the big station and called a little victoria with -a seat for two. The driver wears a white celluloid plug hat and a red -face. He drives a horse which probably fought with Napoleon. He nods -assent to the name of the hotel as I mispronounce it, takes our three -grips on his seat, and away we go down the street, the Lord and the -cabby only knowing where. On the sidewalks are busy people talking -French, walking French, and gesturing French. The stores and shops -are attractive, for the French shopkeeper puts his best stuff in the -front window, whether he is selling hats or sausages. Big busses, with -people on top as well as inside, motor cars and motor busses with horns -and honks, loaded wagons drawn by heavy Norman horses, street sweepers -with brooms, policemen in red-and-blue uniforms, maids in cap and gown, -porters with their work shirts outside their trousers, restaurants and -little cafés with tables and chairs on the sidewalk and French men -sipping absinthe or cold coffee, buildings almost uniformly six stories -high, built with courts in the center which are often seen through -open doors, and everybody talking, gesticulating and screaming in a -language you cannot understand,--that is the confusion through which we -drive for two miles and for which journey the cabman takes off his hat -when I pay him 35 cents, which includes a 4-cent tip for himself. The -hotel porter, or chief clerk, the head waiter, the pages, the manager -and several assistants meet us at the hotel door, and in response to -inquiries assure us that there is a bath-room in the hotel and that -they have a “very nice” room. As an additional and decisive argument -why we should stop there the chief clerk asserts that they have -ice-water, and the entire company falls back in an ecstatic gesture -which evidently means “What do you think of that?” We examine the room, -agree upon a price, and then and not till then do we dismiss the cabman -and proceed to get settled. We are in Paris, the dirtiest and prettiest -city in the world. - - * * * * * - -Of course the first thing to do is to get out and see the sights, but -of course it is not. The first thing is to get the mail and the next -is to clean up. After traveling eight hours on a fast train through a -country which has had no rain for two months, one really does not care -for the wonderful things which the world talks about. Then comes the -French dinner, which is something of an affair. A dinner in France goes -like this: Soup, fish or eggs, veal, beef or mutton, and a vegetable -and salad, cakes or tarts, fruit or ice. No coffee is served with the -meal, but it is usually taken later and is an additional charge. Any -attempt to vary this bill of fare is regarded as insane. I tried my -best to get string beans served with my veal course, but I couldn’t. -The waiter said “Oui,” then went and called the other waiters, and I -could see them looking at the crazy American. That made me persistent, -and I sent for the head waiter and told him I wanted beans--and I knew -they had them ready. The head waiter said “Oui” and disappeared, and -soon the clerks from the office strolled by and looked in. By this -time the veal was cold, and I realized that any further attempt might -result in calling the police, so I gave it up. No one refused to get -my beans, but each time I was told “oui,” which means “yes” and is -pronounced “we,” and each time nothing further happened except the -sympathizing and curious mob. Once I traveled in Europe with a friend -named McGregor, who wanted his coffee served with his meal, as it is in -Illinois. He was willing to pay any price and he would put in his order -hours ahead of mealtime. Did he get it? Certainly not. Coffee is not -served with the dinner in France, and that is all there is to it. - -American travelers have won on one point--ice. Every hotel and -restaurant which caters to American trade advertises ice-water. No -Frenchman will drink it, but in some way the managers found that -ice could be procured in the summer-time, and as a special favor to -Americans, at a small increase in rates, the hotels give us ice-water. - -No real French hotel has a bath-room, to say nothing of a room with -bath. I suppose the French, who look clean, either go to the creek or -swim in the washbowl. Again the American influence is felt. First-class -hotels now have bath-rooms, or a bath-room, and when it is used the -charge appears on the bill, so much for a “grand bath.” - - * * * * * - -After dinner we went for a walk on the boulevards, just as every -Frenchman who can, does every evening. The boulevards are the wide -streets which run through the city in different directions, and were -constructed at first for military purposes. In the little narrow -streets of old Paris it was easy to start a revolution by merely -throwing a barricade across a “rue,” prying up cobblestones for -weapons and stationing a few old women on the housetops with pots of -scalding water, which are harder on soldiers than leaden bullets. -The revolution habit got so strong in Paris that the boulevards were -constructed so the soldiers could march through the city without being -stopped by barricades and mobs. They are likely to be used for that -purpose again sometime, but just now the boulevards are largely for -parades in which French millinery and hosiery are placed on exhibition -every afternoon and evening. The sidewalks are occupied by cafés, miles -of them it seems to me, and for the price of a drink, from one cent up, -and in substance from coffee down, a Frenchman can occupy a comfortable -seat and observe the wonders of art and glimpses of nature which pass -by. An American can do the same, only a real American can never put in -a whole evening consuming one small cup of coffee or whatever other -beverage he can call for in the French language. - -So when I say we “went for a stroll,” we did so in the Parisian sense. -We went for a sit, and let the promenaders do the strolling. Here -and there an orchestra was playing some frivolous air, the street -lights flashed from the lamp-posts, old ladies sold newspapers and -post-cards, and the chattering but musical French language filled the -air with a suggestive touch of the bohemian accent. The later the hour -the larger the crowd, until midnight came, and then the Parisians went -to the dances and parties and the American visitors to the hotels. - - - - -The French Character - - - PARIS, August 13. - -It is a little hard to take Paris seriously, because Paris refuses to -take herself that way. There is a cheerfulness and a playfulness about -the French folks that is hard to appreciate from the calm viewpoint of -an Englishman or American. Our standards are different along so many -lines that comparisons are unfair without explanations; and who cares -for long-winded explanations? According to all the rules that are laid -down in the books of American etiquette, the people of this city should -be behind the rest of the world in all the serious and necessary works -of life. And yet French generals have fought and defeated larger armies -with their French soldiers, French engineers have performed marvelous -feats, French scientists are authority, French musicians command the -highest prices, French business men do great things, the French people -are wealthy, and when it comes to literature and art we in America are -really small potatoes. The fact seems to be that the Frenchman who -promenades the boulevard and the French lady who startles the Puritan -in us, are accomplishing just as much with somewhat limited resources, -as we do, and we are the greatest people on earth as we admit ourselves. - - * * * * * - -The show place in Paris is the parallelogram along the Seine, -consisting of the Champs-Élysées, the Place de la Concorde, the -Tuileries gardens, and the Louvre art gallery. This district is about -three miles long and averages a quarter of a mile wide. It contains the -Champs with beautiful gardens and woods intersected by wide avenues, -then the Place de la Concorde, one of the most beautiful squares in -the world, the Tuileries’ commodious public playgrounds, with ponds -and fountains; palaces with pictures, statues and monuments historical -and allegorical; and the end is in the Louvre, which is said to be the -greatest collection of art in existence. There is not a chord in the -human mind and heart which is not touched beautifully and effectively -by some part of this magnificent public place, which belongs to the -people and is used by them. The more one thinks over this feature, the -more he must realize that although the French do not conform to our -methods they are certainly able to reach many of our best ideals, and -whether they go around or cross-lots to get there depends upon the -viewpoint of the critic. - - * * * * * - -The old Bourbon kings of France understood their people. While they -made it hard for the common people to get a living they made it easy -for them to have a good time. Whenever the public kicked on taxes, -the king laid out a new park and gave a fête with free drinks and -fireworks. The Bourbons would probably be reigning yet if Louis -the Sixteenth and his wife, Marie Antoinette, had had any sense. -Antoinette was German and did not understand the French ways, Louis -was a poor politician, and when a storm came they lost their heads -figuratively and then lost them actually. The republic lasted a few -years and then Napoleon, who was as great a player to the grandstand -as he was a general, became emperor, and only his foolish desire to -conquer everybody lost him his job. The Bourbons came back as kings, -but they had no sense. The French people want to be fooled, and these -kings couldn’t fool anybody. So there was another republic, and then -Napoleon the Third came to the front on the reputation of his uncle, -the great Napoleon. He worked the French people to a finish, built -palaces, boulevards and playgrounds until he had everybody for him, -and then got captured by the Germans, lost his reputation and throne, -and France became a republic for the third time. This was in 1871, and -the republic has lasted forty years, much longer than expected, but -in fact the government has been wisely conducted and has understood -the French character well. There is another Napoleon, by the name of -Victor, who is likely to come back, and sometime when the government -does an imprudent thing the people will remember the good old times of -Napoleon and return to a monarchy. Victor married the daughter of the -old Emperor of Belgium, and has a big campaign fund. - - * * * * * - -Of course everybody knows these facts, and I have recited them to -illustrate the French national character. The French are not false, -but they are fickle. They like a change, a novelty, an excitement. A -revolution, or a new government, appeals to their sense of enjoyment -just as does a new picture, a new hat, or a new coiffure. In spite -of this trait they have done great things in all the great lines of -advancement and progress. Theoretically they should be failures, but in -fact they are successful. They consider Paris the greatest city of the -world, and the way the people of other countries come here and add to -the circulating medium seems to prove they are right. They practically -refuse to learn any other language, but all other countries study -French. Thousands of English and American Puritans come to Paris every -year, but the Frenchman who travels for pleasure is unknown. Why is it? -I give it up, unless we have some French tastes along with our English -standards. - - * * * * * - -The French people are the most temperate, most economical and most -saving of any of the peoples of Europe--or America. With all their -fun they love money, and never forget the necessity of having some -in their old age. Get off the Parisian boulevards, which are spoiled -by visitors, and you see the French, pure and simple, though not so -very pure and not at all simple. They will bargain and figure down to -the “sou,” the popular coin, worth two American cents. Every French -family figures on spending less than it makes, and does it. There are -practically no savings banks and no one much has a bank account, but as -soon as a little money is saved it is invested in government bonds or -municipal or railroad bonds, which bear four per cent interest. Every -family has government bonds, and this habit of investing in securities -is the reason which makes France so great and strong financially. The -people pile their savings into the government treasury, the only bank -they know. The family, which is always small in France, must save for -the daughter’s dot, or she will never be married, and for the last -years of the parents’ lives. There are practically no abjectly poor -people in France. It is not fashionable to be poor, and French men and -French women must be fashionable. - -The Place de la Concorde is a wonderful square, larger than a couple of -our city blocks. In the center is an obelisk, presented by Mohammed Ali -when he was viceroy of Egypt and before the bargain sale of obelisks -took place. It is a block of red granite, 75 feet high and covered -with hieroglyphics which tell the deeds of an Egyptian gentleman named -Rameses. The obelisk is surrounded by large fountains with mermaids -and Tritons and dolphins spouting water into lower basins. Around the -square are statues representing the eight principal cities of France. -Since the monuments were erected one of these cities, Strassburg, has -been taken by the Germans. This was forty years ago, but the monument -still stands, and it is draped in mourning. In any other country the -statue would have been quietly removed, but the French are not built -that way. They hang their wreaths around Strassburg, swear vengeance on -the Germans, and have a good time. - - * * * * * - -This mourning habit is very popular in Paris. The ladies who are called -upon to mourn do so with proper regard for appearances. As near as -I can figure it out the death of a second cousin puts all the female -members of a family into deep black. A mourning-gown with a very hobble -skirt, with the hoisery and millinery to match and with plumes and -décolleté neck to strengthen the effect,--well, it does not detract -from the human interest one naturally takes at such a time. - - - - -The Latin Quarter - - - PARIS, August 15. - -As everyone knows, the city of Paris is cut into two parts by the river -Seine, which runs through it from east to west and with its curves is -about seven miles in length within the town. The river is crossed by -many bridges, all stone and substantial, many ornamented by statues. -Little steamboats run up and down like street cars, and the banks are -covered with massive stone walls. About half-way through the city are -two islands, one called the Cité and the other the Isle of St. Louis. -The Cité is the most ancient part of Paris, and was a town in the time -of Cæsar. The coming of Christianity was marked by the erection of a -church, and about the 12th century by the present cathedral Notre-Dame, -one of the famous buildings in Europe, but not one of the finest -cathedrals. By this time the city had spread out on the banks, and -the organization of France into a kingdom with Paris as the capital -was followed by a removal of the royal residence and of most of the -activities to the sides of the stream. On the south side developed -the university, the artists’ studios, and eventually the military -establishments. Big business, the large residences and industrial -enterprises went to the north bank. The Latin Quarter, as the -educational and artistic section is known, on the south, while equipped -with large stores, palaces and public buildings, is a most interesting -and quaint place, and though still Bohemian is very respectable, from a -Parisian viewpoint. - - * * * * * - -The University of Paris, the original part of which was the Sorbonne, -now an immense structure, has about 15,000 students. It differs from -American universities in many respects. There are no recitations. -The instruction is given by lectures, and a famous authority on law, -or philosophy or science, can lecture to hundreds as easily as to a -small class. There are no dormitories, no fraternities, no football -clubs, no spring parties, no classes, no sports, no colors, no badges, -none of the essential parts of American higher education. Students -of any age or previous training may enroll and become members of the -University, go to the lectures they desire, or not go at all if they -prefer. The public can attend the lectures and the University is open -to women, though the proportion of women students is not large. The -most efficient instruction and the greatest sources of information are -open to the students--if they desire. The Sorbonne was erected in 1629 -by Cardinal Richelieu, and named for Robert de Sorbonne, who started a -school for the education of poor boys in theology about 1250. It has -been rebuilt and enlarged until it is a vast pile 800 feet long and 300 -feet wide. This building houses the schools in literature and science, -the schools of law and medicine occupying buildings near by. - - * * * * * - -Although the students at the University of Paris do not have the fun -in athletics and society that the students do in the University of -Kansas, they have a good time in the French way. The quarter is filled -with cafés, large and small, where students and artists congregate and -eat, drink and make merry. The back room of the café is something of -a club, and discussions on art and science mingle with the perfume of -tobacco and fermented grape-juice. While there is a lack of co-eds -there is no scarcity of ladies, who constitute a part of the course -taken by many of the students, not leading to a degree, not even -to matrimony. All of this, which would be regarded with horror in -Lawrence, is quite the thing in Paris and seems to work out most -satisfactorily to the University authorities, for even the professors -do not hesitate to mingle with their students at the evening sessions -in the joints of the Latin Quarter. The men take examinations and -degrees and go their way to promote the advancement of learning, while -the ladies stay and aid in the instruction of the next generation of -students. The original of the old college story took place in the -Sorbonne. A father who had graduated many years before came for a -visit with his son, who had matriculated as a student. The son had -gone to the same lodging-place which his father had occupied in the -years gone by. The old man was recalling his student days, looking over -the familiar place, noticing the changes and the old scenes. “The -same old beamed ceiling, where I carved my name, and here it is,” he -exclaimed with delight. “The same old view from the window. The same -old furniture--” and just then the back door opened and a dashing lady -appeared. “Same old girl,” he cried with rapture. The boy tried to -explain that she was a friend of a friend. “Same old story,” was the -happy comment, “Same old game.” - - * * * * * - -Near the Sorbonne is the Pantheon, originally built for a church, in -the shape of a Greek cross, located on a hill which is the highest -place on the south side of the river, and with a noble dome that can be -seen for many miles. This is a new building, having been constructed -in the eighteenth century. It was dedicated to Saint Genevieve, the -patron saint of Paris. The revolution converted it into a memorial -temple and named it the Pantheon. It has been a church a couple of -times since then, but is now not used for religious purposes. It is -the burying-place of great Frenchmen. Here are buried Victor Hugo, -Mirabeau, Rousseau, Carnot, and others distinguished in literature -and statecraft. You can see the last resting-place of these great men -by securing an order from the Government or by tipping the custodian: -the latter way I always find the easiest and best. The Pantheon is -beautifully decorated, and the interior with Corinthian columns and -mural paintings is most effective. If it makes any difference to these -men where they are buried they should be glad, for it is the finest -memorial building in Europe. - - * * * * * - -That leads me to a rather grave subject. As a matter of fact, funerals -are very important events in France. Three or four directors in black -clothes and three-cornered hats march ahead, and the hearse is heavily -draped. If the departed was a man of prominence there are a number of -orations delivered, the crowd goes away excited over the condition -of the republic, and is likely to break windows and show its feeling -toward the political opponents of the deceased. When Zola was buried a -hundred thousand people marched in the procession, and there were a -number of street fights and duels as a climax. - - * * * * * - -But the biggest thing in the Latin Quarter so far as American tourists -are concerned is the Bon Marché, I suppose the largest retail general -store in the world. In most ways it is like our department stores, and -announces that it has made its success by reason of faithful dealings -with the public and by advertising. It has been running about fifty -years; the original proprietor is dead, but the business moves on -smoothly. The corporation has a method of division of profits among -employés who have been with the store more than ten years. It also -pensions its old employés, provides lectures and amusements for its -workers, and has a paternal and cöoperative side that is interesting, -although the corporation is in fact controlled by a few heavy -stockholders. - -Somehow I had the idea that our own country was the leader in the big -department store business. But the Bon Marché and others in Paris took -the idea out of me. It has many clerks who speak foreign languages, and -it is said that a native of Timbuctoo or Arkansas could slip into the -store and find some one who could speak his language. - -The clerks in the Bon Marché get from $3 to $6 a week, with the -exception of a few who have special qualifications. So I guess the -old-age pension business is necessary. That is the ordinary wage paid -store clerks in Paris. - -It was at the Bon Marché that the ancient joke happened to me. I was -looking at a price-mark, and, not understanding the figure, inquired in -my pigeon French, “Est sees [6] auter set? [7].” The clerk answered “It -is six.” - -My French is a joke. From necessity I have learned enough French words -to order a meal, buy a ticket and ask how much. I have found that a -good bluff, plenty of signs and the throwing in of French and German -words on the subject generally get about what I want. But often I fall -down. The word for potatoes in French is “pommes.” I told a waiter I -wanted “fried pommes,” and as the word for cold is “froid,” I got cold -potatoes. - -I went for a ride in the underground tube. Bought my tickets and got -onto a train I knew was in the right direction. It stopped, everybody -got out, and the porter insisted that I go too. I knew something was -wrong, and I tackled the platform boss with good English. He couldn’t -understand a word, so he waved his hands and clawed the air and talked -French for a couple of minutes. Then he tried to walk off, but I hung -on. I was away down below the surface of the ground and didn’t even -know straight up. “Correspond” he kept saying, and I assured him I -would be glad to do so if he would give me his address, but first I -wanted to know where I was “at.” I knew he was swearing, but it was -French swear and I didn’t mind. Finally he took me by the arm and -walked me through a couple of passages and pointed to another platform. -A light broke in on me, and I took the train which soon came. I learned -afterward that “correspond” is French for “transfer.” - - - - -The Boulevards of Paris - - - PARIS, August 18. - -The boulevards of Paris are one of the wonders of the world. Strictly -speaking there are a number of broad avenues which are called -boulevards, but usually “the boulevards” is a phrase which means -the one long wide boulevard extending for several miles, from near -the Place de la Concorde to the Place de la Bastille, built in a -semi-circle on the north of the old city and on the fortifications -which defended the city in the Middle Ages. Of course later walls and -fortifications were built farther out, and the “grand boulevards” are -through the heart of the present Paris. The boulevard--for it is one -continuous highway--changes its name every few blocks, a fact that is -characteristically French and somewhat confusing to the stranger. The -beginning is a short distance from the Place de la Concorde at the -church of the Madeleine, the fashionable church of Paris. The building -is in the style of a Roman temple, and has an imposing colonnade of -Corinthian columns. The interior decorations are very good, and include -a large fresco above the altar in which Christ, Napoleon and Pope Pius -the Seventh are classified more or less together. The boulevard is -called The Madeleine for about 200 yards, when the name changes to the -Capucines and sticks for a couple of blocks until the grand opera house -is reached. Along this short stretch are some of the wildest music -halls and the greatest cafés of the world. The greatest is the Café de -la Paix, where everybody who visits Paris goes for at least one drink -of ginger ale or cold coffee. - -The Opera is the largest theatre in the world, covering about three -acres. The site alone cost $2,000,000 and the building over $7,000,000. -The materials are marble and costly stone, and there are statues -of Poetry, Music, Drama, Dance, with other figures, medallions and -allegorical statuary until your head swims. The front of the roof is -sculptured with gilded masks and with collossal groups representing -Music and Poetry attended by the Muses and Goddesses of Fame. Apollo -with a golden lyre and two Pegasuses occupy the dome. The interior -has a grand staircase of marble with a rail of onyx, and the rest of -the interior is be-columned and be-frescoed to match. It is the most -beautiful building in Paris, and could hardly be surpassed if the -attempt were made regardless of expense. I would not try a detailed -description, for it would not convey the real effect, best described by -the word gorgeous. - -From the Opera a street runs southerly called the Avenue de l’Opera, -the great shopping street of Paris, and at another angle goes the -Street de la Paix, where the most expensive jewelry stores and -millinery establishments are located. The name of this street is -properly pronounced de la Pay. - -But the Boulevard continues, no longer the Capucines, but the Italiens. -Some years ago this was the great shopping-place, and it is not bad -now. As the ladies promenade past the Opera and into the Italiens, -the skirts unconsciously go a little higher. The boulevard proceeds, -the next section being called the Montmartre. This part interested me -a great deal. On the rue Montmartre, a side street to the right, is -the Y. M. C. A., and on Mt. Montmartre, a little to the left, is the -Moulin Rouge. - -The Y. M. C. A. in Paris is one of the best things in the city, but -it does not get much newspaper notoriety. It is an English-speaking -organization, with convenient quarters, parlor, reception, billiard, -smoking-and dining-rooms. It is one place in Paris where there is no -café or bar, and it is a great help to young men from America who are -in this city by reason of their business or to study or to visit the -historic places. A great many use the Y. M. C. A. facilities, and a -membership card from Hutchinson or any other association in the world -is good for these privileges in the heart of Paris. I would recommend -to every American that when he goes to Paris he make his headquarters -at the Y. M. C. A., but I am not going to count on many of them doing -it. The Paris atmosphere has the same effect on a Y. M. C. A. that a -nice, warm August sun has on a cake of ice left on the sidewalk in -Hutchinson. I am not telling what I would like to, but I setting down -the facts as they appear to me. The man who goes to Paris and sticks to -the Y. M. C. A. as his loafing-place should have his halo ordered at -once. He has a cinch. - -In the other direction, on Mt. Montmartre, is the Moulin Rouge. I do -not recommend it to nervous men, but it is one of the sights of this -city. When I was a boy I read somewhere about a “gilded palace of -sin,” and now I know what that means. The cowboys out west used to -have what they called “free-and-easies,” but the Moulin Rouge is not -free. I shut my eyes as the dancers loped by until a friend said the -next dance would be a quadrille. I once danced quadrilles myself, and -I thought there would be a breathing-place. The young people arranged -themselves as if they were going to dance a Virginia Reel, and I could -feel consciousness returning. The music struck up and the quadrille -began. At first it went as smooth as if it were at the Country Club. -Then each young lady passed the toe of her right foot over the head -of her partner. Then she turned and pointed the toe of her left foot -at the chandelier which hung from the ceiling. And then came the most -wonderful display of things that are put in the store windows at -home and marked “white goods sale,” or “lingerie.” - -[Illustration: THE PLAIN QUADRILLE AT THE MOULIN ROUGE] - -It was dreadfully embarrassing to me, as it must have been to any other -Kansas man present, but I braced myself, for I knew the worst was yet -to come. I felt like getting right up on my chair and saying, “Ladies, -there are gentlemen present.” But I didn’t, and I have been glad ever -since, for they might not have understood English and thought I wanted -a partner for the next quadrille. - -Afterwards the proceedings became almost immodest. - -So I do not recommend the Moulin Rouge, though I fear that this failure -on my part will not detract from the rush of strangers who are visiting -in Paris and who might go to the Y. M. C. A. But I will say in passing -that it is no place for a man unless his wife is with him, and it is -somewhat distracting even then. - - * * * * * - -Returning to the boulevard. It changes its name to the Poissoniere, and -on this part is the office of the _Matin_, the great newspaper, which -has 750,000 circulation, prints only six pages, and pretends not to -care for advertising. The _Matin_ differs from most Parisian newspapers -in really printing news. The general run of papers here are purely -political, and put their editorials on the front page. They are very -abusive, and the editor has to fight frequent duels. The fighting is -done with pistols at a safe distance, and after an exchange of shots -with nobody hurt, the principals rush together and clinch, but it is -to kiss each other on both cheeks and rejoice that Honor has been -Satisfied. I wouldn’t mind the dueling, but I positively would not kiss -these Frenchmen, and so far as I can learn the society editresses do -not duel. - - * * * * * - -The _Matin_ is the paper that cleared Dreyfus after his trial and -conviction a few years ago. The story is interesting. Dreyfus was made -the victim of a conspiracy, and a document showing details of the -French army was attributed to him as a German spy. Everybody remembers -the trial and the fuss at the time. It became a contest between the -Honor of the French Army and Dreyfus. The _Matin_ took little part, -but, like most of the French, sided with the army. One evening at a -dinner an officer of the court exhibited the original of the document -which Dreyfus had been convicted of writing. Mr. Bueno-Varilla, editor -of the _Matin_, was present, and as the paper was passed around he -looked at it carelessly. That night when he reached home he remembered -that a few years before this same Dreyfus had written him a letter -about some engineering, and he dug up the letter. The handwriting was -not at all what he had seen that evening. He rushed to the telephone -and got the official who had shown the document, who promised to bring -it to him in the morning. They compared the spy information and the -Dreyfus letter which Bueno-Varilla had, and they were utterly unlike. -Next day the _Matin_ printed a photograph copy of the document, and -appealed to anyone who knew the handwriting to advise the _Matin_. -In a day or two a gentleman wrote and said it was the writing of a -drunken bankrupt army officer, named Esterhazey, inclosing letters from -the latter which proved it. Dreyfus was brought back from prison and -pardoned, Esterhazey skipped the country, and the honor of the French -army was flyspecked. All of this because Bueno-Varilla happened to keep -an old letter, and because he owned the _Matin_. - -The boulevard next becomes the Bonne-Nouvelle, and then St. Denis and -then St. Martin, and has several other names before it reaches its end -in the Place de la Bastille. - -This place is even more important in French history than Independence -Hall in ours. The 14th of July is celebrated every year, just as we -do the 4th of July as Independence Day, because on that date in 1789 -the Bastille prison was destroyed by an uprising of the people which -became the French Revolution. The Bastille was especially odious -because political prisoners were confined there, and it only took an -order from the police to send a man or woman to its dungeons. Its use -for this purpose was so flagrant and so despotic that the first fury -of the revolution was directed against its walls, and it was entirely -destroyed, and the jailers and soldiers defending it were killed. -The place is now a large square surrounded by business houses and -ornamented by a statue of Liberty on a column 150 feet high. From the -beginning to the end of this great boulevard with the many names, -are places made historic by great men and hard fights. Now it is a -peaceful, broad avenue, with shops and cafés and handsome buildings, -the promenade-ground for the Parisian and of tourists from all -countries. - - - - -Some French Ways - - - PARIS, August 20. - -There are practically no athletic sports in France, none at all in and -around Paris. In America the men put in a lot of time talking baseball, -football, boating and such-like. In France the men talk only politics -or gossip. There are no lodges and no clubs in France. This ought to -be applauded by the women, but as a matter of fact they probably wish -the men would do a little something in that line. There is a secret -order or two, but they are not strong and not recognized by the orders -in other countries. Frenchmen do not seem to care for athletics of any -kind. The nearest approach to it is fencing, and the young Frenchman -learns to use the sword so he can fight duels. The popular Hero is not -a ball-player nor a prize-fighter, but a man who has invented something -new or who has run off with the wife of a friend. They are venturesome -and personally brave, but they can’t stand for team work. The attempt -has been made to introduce a mild form of football, but every man on -the team wanted to be the star. I suppose if the French should organize -a baseball club every one of them would insist on being pitcher. They -will go up in balloons or airships with dashing recklessness and are -brave enough, if that trait is not merely the absence of caution and -calculation. French aviators are numerous and successful, though the -fatalities are still many. They have shown themselves good fighters -but not good losers. They will quarrel over a trifle and then forgive -and kiss each other in a manner that makes an American seasick. They -are polite in a veneer, for they will lift their hats and make goo-goo -eyes at every pretty woman, and they will let an old woman stand up in -a street car. They are industrious, thrifty, temperate, and cheerful. -Just because they look at some things from a different viewpoint is no -reason why we should criticize them, and yet they are so different from -the neighbors that I can’t help mentioning a few things that are very -noticeable. - - * * * * * - -The French Government has a president, whose name few people know, and -a senate which has little power, and therefore the main factor is -the lower house. This kind of government is a mistake, for the large -legislative body rushes from one extreme to another; whenever its -majority changes, the cabinet resigns, and the result is inconstancy -and instability. Public sentiment is the controlling factor, and -it takes an acrobat to be a statesman in France. Sometimes the -flippety-flop is popular in America, but on the long run he loses. In -France he is succeeded by another just as good. - - * * * * * - -The French are great lovers of art, and in the Louvre they claim the -largest collection of pictures in the world. They looted Italy to get -them, but they have them. No living artist has a picture in the Louvre. -The fellows now on earth have to hang their pictures in the Salon or -the Luxembourg or some other gallery, a sort of artistic tryout, with -the judging done after they are no longer able to exert any personal -influence. I think modern art is as good as ancient art, or better, -except that every modern picture is not art. And I may add that in the -Paris Salon the pictures painted by the artists of today have just as -good color, better drawing and just as few clothes as the works of the -old masters in the Louvre. I get along right well with the old masters -until they paint Mary de Medici and Mary the mother of Christ sitting -and talking together, and then I want to go outside and say a few -things. - - * * * * * - -But while Paris is important in the world, politically, historically, -and artistically, its great distinction nowadays is in millinery and -dressmaking. The women go to Paris to shop, and the men go on account -of the women. The men of Paris are about the worst dressers in the -world. The women are the best. The Parisienne has the natural ability -to take a hat and stick a feather in it so the effect is brilliant. She -can wear a dress that costs much less than the gown of an English woman -or an American woman, and she can look stylish when the other women -have hard work to look decent. The American woman is second, and in a -few respects, like shoes and gloves, she can beat the French; but take -it all around, and the world removes its hat to the French milliner. -Of course the milliner is often a man, but he has to have his Parisian -model or he would fail. Let M. Worth or any of the other Monsieurs -who dictate styles in feminine attire go to London and he would be a -second-rater at once. This is true, whether you want to believe it or -not, and the doubter need only spend a few days on the Paris boulevards -to be convinced. - - * * * * * - -There may be some who think that the latest development in costumes, -the hobble skirt, has reached America. They are mistaken. No real -French hobble skirt could go down the street of an American city -without starting a riot. When one does get to the territory of the -Stars and Stripes the railroads will run excursion trains. The first -day or two in Paris I was nervous about this style of gown. When I saw -a saucy French lady in a dress which looked as if it was put on by a -glove-fitter, I felt that I ought to blush and look at the statuary. I -was told by the best feminine authority with me that in order to wear -one of those skirts it was necessary to discard any wearing apparel -which is usually beneath the female skirt. The poor, pretty things -would go along the street like boys in a sack-race trying to walk, and -by a slit up one side which was not buttoned for several feet from the -bottom, a little motion was secured. But when the lady crossed the -street, or when she climbed to the top of a bus or even stepped into -a cab, it was necessary in order that she maintain appearances that -there be not even a hole in her stocking above the knee. Of course I do -not speak from personal observation. Far be it from me to watch a lady -cross the street or climb into a vehicle. But I knew how it must be -from a careless study of the environment, and my theory was confirmed -by the evidence of all those who did not hide their eyes or observe -the scenery. And I will add that it is extremely difficult to keep the -blinders on while seeing the sights. - -I only speak of these matters because they are much more in evidence in -Paris than are the Statue of Liberty, or the Column of Vendôme, or any -of the great places that the guide-books tell about. - - * * * * * - -The French are delightfully “natural” about many things. It is quite -the proper thing for a man and woman to hug and kiss each other in -public. At first this startled me and I felt that perhaps they were -excited. But no, it is just the proper way to manifest their feelings -at the time. Just imagine how it would be if the Frenchman across the -table from you put his arm around the lady next to him and she snuggled -up to him and patted his cheek with her unengaged hand. I felt like -getting right up and saying, “Excuse me. Am I intruding?” But I soon -learned that they didn’t mind us at all. Their idea of love is to let -go all holds and l-o-v-e. Their theory of matrimony is that it is -an arrangement based on family position, business and prospects. No -young woman can get a husband unless she has a dot, so much capital. -The parents arrange the matches, and usually do so carefully and -thoughtfully. The girl, who has not even been allowed to go to school -with the boys, has no idea of any other arrangement; and the man, who -has never thought of matrimony in another way, considers it a part of -his “career.” - -A man in France cannot marry without the consent of his parents until -he is 25 and a woman not till she is 21. This law is strictly obeyed, -and there is no running off to some other state where the rule is -different. I suppose French marriages arranged in this apparently -cold-blooded manner by the parents turn out on the average as well as -they would if they let the young people rush in and “marry for love.” -But it doesn’t seem right to us, any more than our ways seem good to -them. Of course a Frenchman does not insist that his “sweetheart” shall -have a “dot,” so that kind of an arrangement is made by the parties -themselves. All of which seems very wrong to English and Americans; and -yet the French prove it is the best way by using the divorce figures, -for divorce is practically unknown in France. The French woman is the -business partner of her husband, and necessity makes them pull together -just as they were taught to do from their youth up. She doesn’t belong -to clubs any more than her husband does. She has a great deal of -liberty, and in fact is often the head of the firm. - - - - -In Dover Town - - - DOVER, ENGLAND, August 22. - -One of the strange things in this old world is a boundary line. You -are on a railway in Germany, hearing no language but German. The train -crosses the imaginary line and you hear an entirely different language, -and if you try to use the words which were understood ten minutes -before, the people do not understand you. They are French, and they -not only speak a different language but they differ in custom, tastes -and looks. It would be just like a traveler from Hutchinson to Kansas -City being able to speak and understand what people said at Argentine, -but on arrival at the union depot in Kansas City finding a different -looking and different talking lot, who could not understand a word he -said. And arriving in the Kansas City depot neither understanding nor -being understood, would be something of an ordeal, especially if you -were trying to change trains and make a sharp connection. It is no -wonder that an ordinary Kansan traveling in this European land puts in -much of his time figuring out his route and a lot more doing it. - - * * * * * - -Of course it is a joy to arrive in England and be able to talk and -to understand everything that is said. Two hours after we left the -fish-smelly Boulogne I was quarreling in right fair English with a -railroad official because a train was late. In France we would have -had to stand around and look pleasant, for the official would not have -known whether we were cross about the train or the reciprocity treaty. -It often relieves your mind to tell a Frenchman or a German what you -think of him or his country in English, but it doesn’t cause him any -discomfort. - - * * * * * - -Dover is a most interesting town, with a castle, a harbor, a garrison, -and a history. It is the closest English port to France, and on a -clear day with good eyes and a vivid imagination you can see Calais -in France, 21 miles away. Ever since William the Conqueror came over -and did his conquering, the English have kept Dover fortified in such -a way that it would be difficult for another conqueror to follow his -example. The town lies along the shore and back into a small river -valley. The hills, about 300 feet high, begin at the water’s edge -and go up very rapidly. The biggest hill is on the east, and rises -straight up from the sea 375 feet. The face of the cliff is white, for -the rock formation is chalk, and, topped with green trees and a big -stone castle, makes a fine appearance from the water or from the beach. -There is not only this old castle, which is a fort with a regiment -of soldiers, but the cliff is mined and tunneled, and big cannon are -at the opening in the earth, ready to shoot the stuffing out of any -hostile fleet or army which comes this way. The only time the castle -was ever captured was when Cromwell worked some strategem and got it -away from the Royalists. After looking it all over I don’t see how -any army could possibly capture Dover castle so long as the defenders -stayed awake. - -The Romans first built a fort here, and the remains of the old Roman -walls are still a small part of the present fortifications. The Saxons -built some, then the Normans, and after that various generations of -English,--so that the castle contains specimens of a lot of different -styles of architecture. On the whole it is one of the most imposing -castles in Europe, both by location and by construction. - -This castle business is peculiar. Sometimes a little runt of a building -with a tower and a high fence is famous in history and story because of -a great fight, or a brilliant robber who lived there. To the tourist it -is a disappointment. I suppose every one gets his idea of what a castle -looks like from the reading done in his youth. When I was a boy I -thought a castle must be a good deal like the court-house at Cottonwood -Falls, which is 80 feet high, with a mansard roof and a jail with -barred windows in the rear. Then I got a larger idea, something like -the Reformatory at Hutchinson. And when I came to personally see these -ancient castles I have frequently had to back up to my early theories. -Now I am an expert in castles, and can talk of them without admitting -to myself it is all guess-work. When we started up the Rhine from Bonn -I occupied an unquestioned place as an authority, for I had been in -the great castle country before. But this time my trip was reversed. -To an admiring company of boat acquaintances I pointed out in the -distance a magnificent castle we were approaching. I started to tell -the legend of the castle, when it became apparent that the structure -was a cement plant. Then I was more careful, but soon located another, -a really splendid castle standing off a little from the river. I would -have gotten through all right if some smart aleck had not butted in -with the uncalled for information that the building was a brewery. But -that is what a real castle looks like, the Hutchinson Reformatory, a -cement plant, or a brewery, whichever comparison comes easiest for you -to understand. - - * * * * * - -Dover was one of the “Cinque Ports.” Five little towns along the coast -of the channel had a sort of organization which was given recognition -by the government under the early Norman kings. The towns were granted -privileges and relieved from burdens of taxation in consideration of -furnishing ships in time of war. The principal work of a navy at that -time was to capture merchant vessels, slug the crews and keep the -cargoes; so the towns prospered under the arrangement. It has been -only a couple of hundred years since there was a standing army or a -royal navy. When the king declared war he issued a call and the lords -and knights responded with their men, and the army was formed for the -campaign. If any of the nobles got sore on the king, they took their -troops and went home. A navy was raised in the same way, only by the -towns along the coast instead of by individuals. Such an army and navy -was not satisfactory, but the English parliament refused to furnish -money for a standing army until after the days of good Queen Anne, -about 200 years ago. Now the English army is not near as large as the -armies on the continent, but the English navy is kept twice the size -of any other navy in the world. Germany is the country that England -suspects as a possible enemy. Germany and France are crossways right -now over which shall get the most of Morocco, and England is bound -to stand by France in case of trouble. Morocco isn’t worth anything -to anybody, but it may cause a terrible war between the most highly -civilized nations of Europe. And yet some people are opposed to -arbitration because of “national honor.” The opponents of arbitration -ought to come over to these poor countries laboring under the weight of -big armies and navies, and see how people are suffering because of the -foolish feudal notion that the way to decide which is right is to fight -it out. - - * * * * * - -We ate our lunch today in a restaurant which proudly boasts that its -steps were the place where David Copperfield rested during his search -for his aunt, Betsey Trotwood. Little Dorrit lived at Dover, and the -men and women of Dickens land often visited or made their homes in -this quaint old seaport or in its vicinity. Shut your eyes to the big -cliff and its imposing fortress, forget the harbor with its ships and -men of war, quit observing the narrow streets and crooked lanes which -run up and down the side of the hill, and live with the people that -Dickens made so real that to most of us they surely existed. That is -Dover, a different Dover from the red-coated, fish-smelling, quaintly -architectured place in which people are buying and selling, and a Dover -which will live as long as the English language is read. - - - - -Old Canterbury Today - - - CANTERBURY, ENGLAND, August 24. - -This little city of 25,000 inhabitants is the ecclesiastical capital -of England, and has been for over a thousand years. Some time before -the year 600 Queen Bertha, wife of the Saxon king, became a Christian -and built a small church in Canterbury. Then when St. Augustine came -in 597 and took the king and all his army into the church at one big -baptizing, the king gave him the palace and the heathen church, and -they were converted into a cathedral and monastery. St. Augustine -and succeeding archbishops were the heads of the church in England, -and when the Normans came in 1066 they continued the rule. The first -Norman archbishop began the construction of the present cathedral, and -as money was plenty and labor cheap, it was built magnificently. The -Archbishop of Canterbury received the title of Primate of All England, -and he wears it to this day. The English Church is a government -institution, the archbishop is a member of the House of Lords, and the -position is easily the greatest in the Protestant world. - -The murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket, in 1170, was the greatest -thing that ever happened for Canterbury. He was in a controversy with -King Henry, and made life so uncomfortable for the king that Henry -remarked to some of his followers that if he had a few real friends -there would be no Thomas Becket to worry him. Henry was probably drunk -when he made this talk, although it doubtless was an expression of -his real feelings. Four of his knights took him at his word, hiked -to Canterbury, and killed the archbishop right in the cathedral. The -murder was a shock to Christendom. The dead archbishop was canonized as -a saint, and the people generally refused to believe Henry’s statement -that he didn’t mean what he said. Everything went wrong with Henry, and -the sacrilegious act was held responsible. Two years later the king -went to Canterbury and took a whipping on his bare back as a penance -for his remarks, and for years pilgrims came to Canterbury, miracles -were reported wrought by the relics, and the cathedral and Canterbury -got rich from the pilgrim business and the valuable gifts showered upon -the shrine of St. Thomas. - - * * * * * - -It is customary to consider Thomas Becket a martyr to the cause of -liberty and to indulge in great eulogy of him as a saint. But he was -really a plain man like the rest of us. His trouble with the king came -because Henry wanted to recognize some other bishops, and Thomas, who -was proud and stubborn, claimed that he alone had the power. It was -really a conflict of authority between the church and the state, and a -good deal to be said on both sides. Thomas abused the king viciously -and had several bishops excommunicated because they agreed with Henry. -He also threatened the king, and the disagreement was all over jobs -and money. Those were tough times, and the usual way to get rid of -an enemy was to kill him if you could. Unfortunately for Henry, his -self-appointed friends did a bungling job, Thomas became a saint, and -the king had to concede to the church all the privileges that had -been claimed. Three hundred years later King Henry the Eighth, in -order to secure a divorce and a new queen, overthrew the authority -of the church, made himself the head of it, and incidentally sent to -Canterbury, took all the valuables that had been placed on the shrine -of St. Thomas, and put them in the national treasury, that is, his own -pocket. - - * * * * * - -But during that 300 years the supremacy of Canterbury as the religious -head of the nation became fixed. The archbishops generally had to go -into politics, many of them achieved greatness, and some were executed -publicly. The cathedral was added to, “restored,” improved, and is -now one of the very finest cathedrals in Europe. To an Englishman or -an American it is more interesting than any other church in England, -except perhaps Westminster Abbey. It has specimens of all kinds of -architecture in its different parts, but they have been so harmoniously -put together that the edifice is imposing on the outside and most -impressive on the inside. - -Canterbury itself is a sleepy old town, very full of quaint houses and -with plenty of tradition to make things interesting. Chaucer, Dickens, -Thackeray and other English writers have woven Canterbury into their -stories, and on every side you are shown the places where heroes and -heroines of fiction made their homes. But this week Canterbury is busy. -The last game of the cricket season is being played, and Canterbury -is as crazy over cricket as Hutchinson was over baseball when in the -Western Association. The cricket association of England is made up of -the counties, and I had the opportunity of seeing the game between Kent -and Yorkshire. Fully ten thousand people attended, and I suppose they -enjoyed the game, though English cricket is as tame to an American -as the moo of a cow would seem to a roaring lion, or as spring-water -lemonade would taste to a colonel from Kentucky. The game began at -10 o’clock in the morning, with Yorkshire, the visiting team, at the -bat. At one o’clock the Yorks were put out after making 75 runs. Then -there was lunch, and the crowd stayed on the field and under the trees -for what looked to me like a harvest home picnic in Kansas. At 2 -o’clock play was resumed, and continued till 4 o’clock, when the game -stopped for the players and spectators to have tea. Yes, tea! Imagine -an American ball game suspended for a half-hour while the ball-players -enjoyed tea and sandwiches! It was too much for me. I saw the last -half of the first inning would not be ended in one day, so I quit the -cricketers and their tea and went off to look at an old church, which -was more exciting. - - * * * * * - -There are some peculiarities about cricket when viewed from an -American standpoint. The association or league corresponds very well -to our National or American League. A club of eleven men may be all -professionals, or, as is usually the case, some may be amateurs. -A professional is a player who is paid, and on the score his name -appears without prefix, just “Brown.” But if he is an amateur and plays -without pay, his name is on the score card “J. M. Brown, Esq.” He is -then called a “gentleman player.” The game usually lasts two days. The -side that is in stays in until ten men are put out. The pitcher or -bowler tries to hit the wicket, three little posts that stand like our -baseball home plate, and if he does, the batter is out. The batter, or -in English the batsman, defends the “wicket,” and when he hits the ball -far enough runs to the other wicket, which is located at the pitcher’s -box. If he knocks a fly and it is caught he is out, or if a fielder -gets the ball and hits the wicket while he is running, he is out. Two -batsmen are up at a time, and a man may make a lot of runs. I saw -Woolley, the pride of Kent, score 56 runs, and players often exceed the -hundred mark. If the game is not finished in three days it is declared -off. - - * * * * * - -The crowd was quiet and ladylike. Occasionally they would applaud and -say “Well bowled, sir,” but they did not tell the umpire he was rotten -and they never urged the visiting club to warm up another pitcher. Not -a word was said by the players, not a pop-bottle was thrown, nobody -was benched and there was never a thought of such a thing. The English -are better sportsmen than we are, and they applaud a good play by a -visitor. A man who tried to rattle the bowler by screaming that his arm -was glass, would be arrested and probably hung. - - * * * * * - -Besides the cathedral, the quaint buildings and the cricket, Canterbury -also offered an opportunity to see the moving pictures of the -Jeffries-Johnson prize fight in a theater next to the church. Of course -I did not go. I told several Englishmen that in America we considered -these pictures degrading, and as between the fight pictures and the -cathedral I preferred the cathedral. Besides, I had seen the fight -pictures before. - - * * * * * - -Another very interesting church in Canterbury is St. Martin’s, a little -one, but considered the mother church of England. It is said to be -the one erected for Queen Bertha before her Saxon husband, Ethelbert, -was converted. This was prior to 600. It is on a foundation which was -used for a Roman temple. Within the church is a big stone font said to -have been used for the baptizing of Ethelbert. There is little doubt -but that the history of St. Martin’s is clear and it is the oldest -Christian church in all England. - - * * * * * - -Associating with old cathedrals and Saxon churches makes one feel a few -thrills. Even the inn where Chaucer put up his pilgrims seems modern. -But cricket and the prize-fight pictures make up a sort of balance, and -second-hand shops with wonderful salesmen bring one back to the 20th -century. Canterbury has a famous brewery which is better patronized -locally than is the cathedral, and farmers are in town trying to get -hop-pickers just like Kansas farmers after hands in harvest-time. If -St. Thomas could come back and see the automobiles running around his -old monastery, notice the electric lights in the cathedral crypt, -observe the American tourists with their guide-books and their gall, he -would probably have some thrills himself. - - - - -The English Strike - - - LONDON, August 28. - -There was a great strike of railway men in England last week, the -news of which was sent over the world. As a subject of conversation -and discussion it has taken the place of ordinary sights and tourist -stunts. A very large per cent of the railway employés went out, there -was rioting in several places, the soldiers were called upon, there -was almost war in spots, and several people, innocent by-standers -usually, were killed. The government secured a cessation of the strike -by getting men and managers to agree to submit the differences to a -national commission and be bound by it--an agreement both sides will -break if it does not suit them. A railroad strike is a most serious -thing in England, for in London and the manufacturing centers the -people depend on the railroads to bring in their provisions, and as -ice is almost unknown very few shops have more than a day’s supply of -meats, fish and fresh eatables on hand. So the strike was pinching -millions of people who had no personal interest in its result. - -If I were a railroad employé in England I would strike, or at least -I’d strike out for America or some other land where a man has a show. -Railroad men are not well paid in England, rather worse than other -working-men. Engineers, or drivers as they are called, rarely get to -exceed 30 to 35 shillings a week (seven to nine dollars). Firemen, -switch-men, baggagemen, station-men, operators, conductors and brakemen -get from 20 shillings to 35 shillings a week (five to nine dollars). -And yet both passenger fares and freight charges are higher in England -than in Kansas. In discussing the subject with an educated Englishman -I complained that a man with a family could not live on these wages. -“Yes, but they do,” he said; “but the family doesn’t get meat every -day--and the family doesn’t need meat every day.” I argued on, that a -man can’t buy a home, or save anything for trouble or old age. “That’s -true,” he said, “and it is unfortunate. But his children won’t let -him starve, and there is some light job he can do to help out. The -government is now preparing a plan for the pensioning of old people. -When that law is working, a man won’t have to worry about the future.” - -Which is a rotten theory. It merely means that with the prospect of a -pension of less than two dollars a week an English laborer can be kept -working at the present low standard. I am for the old-age pension, but -I am for the proper payment of a workingman while he is at the age to -enjoy life. This beautiful England with its castles and palaces and -picture galleries and great history is far behind every other nation -in its treatment of the workingman, and consequently England is now -sitting on a keg of dynamite which is likely to explode. Once get it -out of the heads of the English workmen that they have to submit to -these things and these wages because their fathers did, and that it is -a great blessing to have a king and lords, and the English working-men -will raise Hades with the present political and social conditions in -merry England. It seems to me that the time is not far distant when the -explosion will take place. Only very skillful management on the part -of the English statesmen and the very conservative habits of thought of -the English people prevented most serious trouble last week. - -An English workman usually has a large family, and the only way they -can keep from going hungry or to the poorhouse is for the whole family -to work and mother and children earn money to put into the common -treasury. Meat, vegetables, fruit, everything to eat, costs more in -England than it does in Kansas. Rent is less, but our workmen wouldn’t -live as these have to. Clothing is cheaper in some respects and dearer -in others. But the item is small with an English workman. You can see -that after he pays rent and buys food he has very little left for -wearing apparel, so father wears his suit until it is worn out, mother -gets along on second-hand clothing, which is generally used, and the -children have a cheaper grade and little of it. - - * * * * * - -I am not knocking on the English. This condition which seems so -distressing to me is a product of their conditions and is not -the deliberate purpose of the people. I think it comes from the -conservatism of the English character, and also from the fact that the -English workman competes against the world. English manufactures and -commerce have been built up because in England labor is intelligent, -high-class, and cheap. I can have a tailor-made suit of clothes for -twelve dollars in London. That’s fine for me, but how is it for the -tailor? And it doesn’t help the other English workingman, for he does -not have the twelve. On the other hand, the ability of the American -workman to buy has brought it to pass that he can get just as good a -suit, better fitted and better looking, at a Hutchinson clothing store -for twelve to fifteen dollars,--and he has the money and buys! There -is going to be some discussion of clothing and the woolen schedule -in the United States, and I want to put in this testimony. Before -I left home I bought a suit in Hutchinson for fifteen dollars. No -English tailor-made suit for that price looks near so well, and the -way it fits and hangs is complimented by the English. The only kind -of stuff that is cheaper in England than with us is that in which -hand labor is employed. Women buy laces because they are made by -intelligent working-women who are paid 25 to 50 cents a day. Silk hats -are cheaper, but the same quality hat I buy at home cost me just as -much in London, and shirts, underwear, sox, etc., are as expensive here -as in Hutchinson. I am told the same rule applies to women’s clothes. -Americans who come to England and continue to live on the same standard -they do in America say that living is more expensive here. Of course -they can have three or four servants for the same price they paid the -one hired girl at home, and can pose as being “upper class.” - - * * * * * - -I went to a barber shop, a first-class one. I was shaved for a -“tuppence” (four American cents) and had my hair cut for a “trippence” -(six American cents). I gave the barber a tip of a penny, for which -he was very thankful, and then I went out of the shop growling at a -country where I could get shaved so cheaply and where a tailor-made -suit cost only $12. In this world of ours we are so dependent on one -another that you can’t cheapen one man without cheapening all the -rest. I asked the street-car conductor and he told me he was paid -five dollars a week--and he has a family of six. The chamber-maid at -the hotel works for a dollar a week and board. A good coachman or -a house-man gets one to two dollars a week and board. A clerk in a -store does well to beat five dollars a week. How do they live? I don’t -know, but they do; but they have all heard of America and Canada and -Australia, and would go there if they could raise the fare, or if it -were not for leaving family and home. - - * * * * * - -I am getting away from the strike subject. I make myself unpopular -with some of the English, the wealthier people and their foot-men, -by insisting that the railroad men ought to strike and ought to have -their wages doubled, when I have to pay more than two cents a mile for -a second-class fare, and about twice as much for shipping freight as I -would in Kansas. And I always compare with Kansas, a place most of them -never heard of, and I suppose they think I am describing a fictitious -land where the millennium has already arrived. - - * * * * * - -We spent an afternoon at Richmond, where high hills rise from the -valley of the Thames and the view of English farm and village, river -and forest, is one of the finest in the world. Far away in the distance -is Windsor Castle, the favorite royal dwelling-place, the Thames like -a silver streak dotted with boats and wooded islands, quaint towns -with old churches, and winding roads white with the macadam of chalky -stone, occasional tram-ways, busses with the passengers on top, gardens -and orchards, little strips of pasture with sheep and cows, fences of -hedges and ivy-covered walls,--all of these things are a panorama which -make the breath come fast, the heart beat more rapidly. The ground is -historic, for it has been the living-place and fighting-place of great -men from the time of the Saxons, and every town and hill is like a page -of English history. Beautiful homes adorn the hillside and comfortable -inns offer entertainment to the traveler and the visitor. It is a great -picture, and artists have copied it onto their canvases. Turner and -Gainsborough lived here, and their pictures of English scenery are -more beautiful than their conceptions of saints and their portraits -of sinners. Here is where good King Edward, the most popular monarch -England has had in many years, came for a view and a night out. In the -road-house on the height is the place where Lilly Langtry achieved fame -by slipping a chunk of ice down the back of Edward’s princely neck. - -We had lunch at The Boar’s Head and took tea at The Red Dog, two of the -many taverns which show the English taste in names is just the same now -as it was when Pickwick traveled and motor cars were unknown. - - - - -Englishman the Great - - - LONDON, August 31. - -London is easily the capital of the world. As much as every other large -nation might argue the question, there is general acceptance of the -fact that Great Britain is the greatest force politically. The English -navy, superior in size and quality to any other two navies, the English -commerce which goes under the English flag to the furthermost parts, -the great English colonies (almost independent states) Canada and -Australia, the rich English possessions like India and South Africa, -the English “spheres of influence” like Egypt and Persia, and the -supremacy of English capital and banking methods,--all of these and the -capable, self-possessed, educated English manhood and womanhood have -made the power of Great Britain foremost among the nations. And London -is not only the political capital of England and its dependencies, but -it is the capital in business, books, art, fashion, science, and money. -The wealth and the literature and the commerce of the world depend on -the judgment of London. The very thought of the power thus included -is impressive. I walked down Threadneedle street and Lombard street, -each about as large as an alley in Hutchinson, and thought of the -millions and millions of money and capital which those plain buildings -contained, and of the power which the men within them possessed. Then I -thought of the eight million people of London, moving around like ants -in a hill, and the size, the activity, and the never-ending motion, -brought most forcibly to mind how insignificant is one man, especially -if he is from Kansas and doesn’t know a soul in all that aggregation. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: SEEING LONDON FROM THE OLD ENGLISH BUS] - -But there is one part of London in which all English-speaking people -have a part--the London of history, of Dickens, Thackeray, Johnson, -Shakespeare and those men whose names are living long after the -money-lender and the broker are forgotten. A little way from the -Bank and the bankers is the old Curiosity Shop, the Cheshire Cheese, -the Cock, the Temple Courts, and hundreds of names familiar to -every reader of English literature, and instead of being lonesome -and oppressed by the weight of the millions of people and money, I -felt that I had met old friends, and that Little Dorrit, or David -Copperfield, or Samuel Johnson, or Pendennis, or Oliver Twist or some -other acquaintance whom I knew very well was expected every minute. -That is the great beauty of being an American in London, for all of the -history and literature that have centered here is ours as well as our -English cousins’. - - * * * * * - -The hansom cab and the old omnibus are disappearing before the taxi -and the motor-bus. It is a shame, but the world will move on. Every -Englishman or traveler remembers the London cab, with its two wheels -and hood-shaped carriage, and the driver up behind. There are still a -few, but the taxis are faster, and the London cab horse will soon be -freed. So it is with the old bus, drawn by two good horses and driven -by an expert driver who knew all of the history and romance of the -buildings along the route, and who would impart said information with -decorations and embellishments to the traveler with a sixpence. All -of this so-called progress, the motor cars and the wider streets, are -doubtless more efficient and more sanitary, but they are not near so -picturesque or interesting. The taxicabs go through the London crowds, -the jam of vehicles and the congestion of traffic at a speed that would -not be tolerated in a small town in Kansas. The policeman stands on the -corner and regulates the moving mass, but apparently there is no speed -limit, only punishment for bad driving. The motor-driver who runs over -a man is severely punished, and that makes him careful. The rule works -well, but not quite so well as the one in Paris, which punishes the -pedestrian who gets in the way of the motor car. - - * * * * * - -Next to the wages problem is the land problem in England. Three or four -men own half the real estate in London. Their ancestors got it in a -fairly legitimate way when it was outlying country, and now it is the -heart of a great city. The English law of heredity keeps the estate -together. The English land conditions are the worst I know of in any -nation in the world. The rich old dukes who own so much of London -cannot be pried loose from their holdings, and the actual residents -cannot buy their homes or their business houses. The proprietor usually -leases for 99 years, but every improvement goes to him eventually; he -will do nothing himself, and the renter pays the taxes. On Piccadilly -street, in the center of the fashionable residence and shop district, -the Marquis of Landsup, or some such title, has a park of twenty acres -which is surrounded by a high stone wall. It is a pretty park, but -the owner’s family is there only a couple of months in the year when -the weather is cold and the park is not usable. The rest of the time -no one but servants and caretakers occupy that beautiful tract, with -the city all around it. And thousands and tens of thousands of people -are walking the streets or living in miserable tenements. I suspect -I’d be a Socialist if I stayed long in London and thought much about -such things as this. With all their brain and intellect the English -statesmen have not solved the land problem in England, and they never -will solve it until they upset the table. - - * * * * * - -It is a great thing to be able to speak the language and not have to -rely so much on holding up your fingers and making faces. We have been -for so many weeks among the Dutch and the French that it is a positive -pleasure to just listen to the conversation around us and know that we -can understand. A little knowledge of a foreign tongue leads to many -mistakes. I heard a Frenchman in a London hotel giving an account of -his day’s experience to an English lady. Among other things he said he -went to a linen store and left an order for table linen, and added, -“and I will have my entrails on it.” Of course he meant his initials, -but he had been careless with his dictionary. And yet it is very hard -for us to understand the ordinary London cab-driver or workman. His -accent is so different that it is almost like another language. And -even an educated Englishman will give you a direction like this: “Go -to the next turning on the left, bear a bit to the right until you -get to the top of the street.” Which means in American go to the next -corner, turn to the left, then a little to the right to the end of the -street. I never can understand why the English people generally murder -their language as they do. But perhaps I am like the little American -girl I met in Germany. She had learned German at home, and I asked her -how she got along in Berlin. “Not very well,” she said, “they talk such -bad German.” - - * * * * * - -The transportation in the center of London is confined entirely to -busses and cabs. There is too much traffic and the streets are too -narrow for street railways. In the outer parts of the city a number -of street cars, or “trams” as they are called, are operated. Every -bus and every tram has seats on the roof, and they are the choice -seats on the vehicle. From one of these top seats is the place to see -London, and the traveler has the advantage of not only being able -to note the sights on the pavement and the walks, but he can look -in the second-story windows and see how people live. There are no -great skyscrapers in London, the business houses usually being six -stories or less in height. The residences are nearly always three -or four stories, and either built flush to the street, with a garden -or court in the rear, or back from the street and the yard inclosed -by a high stone wall. The Englishman goes on the old principle that -an Englishman’s house is his castle, and puts up high walls between -himself and his neighbors. A front porch, or an open lawn in front -of a private house, would be regarded as freakish or an evidence of -insanity. On the other hand, there are many public parks and pretty -green squares in London which are breathing-spots for the congestion of -humanity within this great city. - -The “City of London” which has a Lord Mayor is the little old city -which is the hub of the whole business. It is the section of the -banks and the great institutions of finance, and is about the size of -Hutchinson, but a solid mass of stone structures and narrow streets. -Only about 30,000 people reside there. The London of the present is -London County, covers about 900 square miles and is therefore about the -size of Reno county. That is the area in which 8,000,000 people live. -It is governed by a County Council, elected by the taxpayers, which is -a very active body and is doing much to improve the conditions. London -has fine water and visitors are even urged to drink it--something new -in Europe. Taxes, or “rates” as they are called, are high, and include -everything from real estate and personal to income tax and a stamp tax -on receipts and drafts. The great problem of improving a city is to get -the money without distressing the people. It requires large sums to -make and care for parks, streets, schools, paving, water-works, light, -and the other things that the city must have in order to be modern, -healthful, and comfortable. The citizens everywhere groan under the -weight of taxation, and yet they should not if the money is properly -spent. These streets, police, schools, fire departments and such are as -necessary as the walls of our homes, which also require money to build -and maintain. The certainty of death and taxes is proverbial. There is -no way to avoid the former and the only way to dodge taxes is to go -to an uninhabited island and live by yourself. And then if some other -individual comes along, the first thing the original tax-dodger will -do is to tax the other fellow. - - * * * * * - -The ordinary English home has the front room of the house for the -dining-room. The “drawing-room” is at the rear and the kitchen quite a -distance from the dining-room. The drawing-room is used only on special -occasions and the dining-room is the family living-room. The English -are great home-makers, and their houses are always well furnished and -look as if folks lived there. On the continent the fashion is to go out -for the evening meal to restaurant or café, but the Englishman comes -home and stays there. The table is spread with the family and intimate -friends around, and supper is served at 8 o’clock or later. You see the -Englishman has already had three meals--breakfast, luncheon, and tea; -so the evening meal is late. To me the most attractive part of English -life is that in the home. The Englishman gathers his family about him, -pulls down the blinds, reads his newspaper and is in his castle, which -no lord or duke can enter without his consent. This simple virtue of -home-living is rare in Europe, and in the family circle which gathers -at the table and at the altar the young Englishman gets the habit of -thought and manner which marks him wherever he goes, and which has made -his country the greatest of all the nations. - - - - -The North of Ireland - - - LONDONDERRY, IRELAND, September 8. - -Crossing the Irish Sea from Fishguard in southern Wales to Rosslare in -southern Ireland, I met a jolly Irishman from Cork. When I told him I -was going to the North of Ireland he remonstrated. “Don’t do it, mon. -Every Irishman up there is a Scotchman!” But I had seen the beautiful -South of Ireland and we had to come to Londonderry to take the ship -for home, so the warning of the Corker was in vain. I found that he -was right. Soon after we left Dublin we came upon linen factories and -distilleries and Presbyterian churches, people too busy to jolly a -stranger, and cannily seeking the surest way to a sixpence. In the -South of Ireland no one is too busy to talk with the stranger and to -tell him all the legendary lore of the country, while in the North one -shrinks from stopping the busy worker, even to ask him which way is -straight up. The people of both ends of Ireland are pleasant and the -American dollar is greatly admired, but the process of extracting it -is painless, even pleasant, in Cork, while it hurts enough to notice in -Belfast. The South is almost entirely agricultural and is social, while -the North is filled with factories and notices not to allow your heads -to stick out of the windows. The people of the South are poorer but -happier; the people of the North are busier and more worried in their -looks. The Irishman in the South smiles pleasantly without an apparent -thought of the money he is going to make, the Irishman in the North -smiles after he gets the money. - - * * * * * - -All of this Emerald isle is green, and picturesque scenery with lakes -and falls, glens and fields, rugged coasts and beautiful beaches is to -be found from Queenstown to Portrush. - - * * * * * - -We stopped a day in Dublin, which is an Irish city with a large tinge -of English. It was the capital of Ireland prior to the consolidation -of the Irish Parliament with that of Great Britain, and may still be -called so because the Lord-Lieutenant Governor lives here and has a -sort of a court. There are about 400,000 people, packed in too tightly -and with not enough work to keep many of them in decent living and -style. That is the trouble in Ireland--one of their troubles, the lack -of opportunity for work. There is not much for the energetic young -Irishman to do but to emigrate, and he goes to America or Canada or -Australia, or even to England, to get a job and a chance. The land is -nearly all owned by men who do not live in Ireland, and is rented to -farmers who find that when they improve their places it means a raise -in rent. The new land law which gives a man a sort of title to his -leased land, and makes a court of arbitration as to rent and purchase, -is improving conditions in Ireland and they are better off now in -respect to land than they are in England, except for the blight of -absentee landlordism, the system which takes the rent-money and spends -it in London or in Paris. - - * * * * * - -Dublin is perking up some on the prospect of home rule, which would -bring an Irish legislature to Dublin and make the city a real capital. -But the prospect for home rule is dubious. The Irish party holds the -balance of power in the English Parliament and has been allied with -the Liberals in their reforms and the dehorning of the House of Lords. -The Liberals have promised the Irish home rule, and the leaders will -try to fulfill the promise, but they may find it hard work to line up -their followers, and let it go until another general election. There -are so many other questions involved in English politics that home rule -may be lost in the shuffle, but as the Irish are the best politicians -in the world they are looking forward to success after a lovely fight. - - * * * * * - -The city of Belfast, a hundred miles north of Dublin, is the center of -the linen trade. The English Parliament a couple of hundred years ago -prohibited the manufacture of wool in Ireland because it competed with -English trade, but promoted the spinning of linen. The climate is just -right, labor is cheap, and Irish linen is the best in the world. We -visited a linen mill, and also a cottage where the hand looms were at -work. The wages paid to good hands are 50 to 75 cents a day. This would -be fair wages in Europe, but the work is not always steady and many -days are lost in setting the patterns and fixing the looms. The manager -of the factory said that most of his best men went to America--he -himself had two sons in New York. The wages here will keep soul and -body together if the body is willing to get along on fish and potatoes. -But there is no outcome, no prospect of a future which shall include -a beefsteak once a week. The manager had been in America and he knew -the difference. “Our workmen are all right because they don’t know the -luxuries the American workman has, except by hearsay. Of course if they -once get the appetite for meat and a new suit of clothes every year -they have to leave us. But a two-eyed beefsteak makes a good meal.” A -two-eyed beefsteak is an Irish name for a herring. - -Belfast has great ship-building yards, next to Glasgow the greatest -in the world. It also has large distilleries which supply England and -America. I am told that the consumption of liquor is on the decrease in -Ireland. I hope so. But the distilleries keep building additions and -enlarging their plants. - -Which recalls the old story of the Illinois statesman who was a great -drinker and was ruining the prospect of a useful life. His family -and friends tried to stop him, but the habit or disease could not be -overcome. One night a friend had him out for a walk, trying to sober -him up for important business the next day. They passed a distillery -and the friend said: “John, what a fool you are to try to drink all the -whisky that is made. You can’t do it. See that busy distillery with its -bright lights and throbbing engines. You can’t beat it.” John looked, -and then with drunken dignity replied: “Perhaps you’re right. But don -you shee I’m making ’em work nights?” - - * * * * * - -The drink problem is the hardest to solve in Great Britain, England, -Ireland and Scotland. It is worse than the wage problem or the land -problem. In no other countries that I have visited are the evils of -booze so plainly in evidence as in the British Isles. In Germany the -sight of the family in the beer garden with their mugs of creamy -liquid, their good-nature and their temperance, does not make an -unpleasant impression. In France and the southern countries, where -wine is the common beverage, one does not worry about this custom. -But in England, Ireland and Scotland, where you see men and women -drunk in the streets and in the gutters, where you see children ragged -and barefooted, homes cheerless and pauperism prevalent, all plainly -because of the drink, the sensibility of even the most seasoned is -shocked. Public-houses with women behind the bars, open seven days in -the week and handing out the whisky which temporarily exhilarates and -then stupefies and degrades, are one of the companion pictures to the -great buildings, wonderful achievements and artistic developments which -one sees in every British town. The temperance societies work hard, the -government would help if it dared, but the drinking, the suffering and -the pauperizing process goes on. The distilleries are enlarging, and -working nights. - - * * * * * - -I talked this matter over with an intelligent Irishman, and he agreed -with me that if the drinking of liquor could be abolished it would do -away with nine-tenths of the poverty. “But see these poor fellows and -how they work,” he said. “Saturday night comes, and who can blame them -for having a few pleasant hours even if it is all imagination, and even -if they do go to work on blue Monday with aching heads and a little -tremble.” - -Which is very poor argument, for it does not take in the dependent -wives and children. And the Saturday night drunk makes a poor workman -on Monday. - - * * * * * - -On the northern coast of Ireland, near Portrush and a number of -beautiful summer resorts, is the Giant’s Causeway. The origin of -this really wonderful freak of nature is said by archæologists to be -volcanic, and that the Causeway, the adjoining cliffs and several -islands are products that came from a volcano in the shape of burning -lava, and were then thrown into shape by later explosions as the molten -mass was cooling. The Causeway is a formation like a pier extending -into the ocean and made up of 40,000 pillars (by Irish count), each a -separate column and usually five-or six-sided. They are about twenty -feet long, twenty inches in diameter and jointed like mason-work, -or more like a bamboo rod. The theory is that as the lava cooled it -cracked and shrunk. Perhaps so. Nobody saw it. - -I prefer the Irish version, which is simpler and easy to understand. - - * * * * * - -Fin MacCoul, the giant, was the champion of Ireland. He had knocked -out all rivals and no one could stand in front of him for a second -round. He was as great a man in Ireland as John L. Sullivan used to be -in Boston. Over in Scotland a certain Caledonia giant boasted that he -could lick any man on earth, Irish preferred. He gave out an interview -to the newspapers, saying that if it were not for the wetting he would -cross over and take the Irish championship from Fin. After much of the -usual mouth-work between the champions, Fin got permission from the -king, constructed the Causeway from Ireland to Scotland, and dared the -Caledonian to come across. The Scot was game, and the match was pulled -off without police interference, resulting in a victory for Fin, who -kindly allowed his beaten rival to settle in Ireland and open a saloon. -Ireland was then, as it is now, the finest country in the world, so the -Scotchman lived happily ever afterward. The Causeway gradually sank -into the sea, and all that is now in sight is the Irish end and a few -islands between it and the Scottish coast. - - * * * * * - -The formation of the coast for several miles each side of the Causeway -is the same volcanic rock, and it rises abruptly hundreds of feet high -from the sea. Caves and caverns with arches and vaults and echoes, and -natural amphitheatres with the pipe organ Fin used to play and the -bathtub which he used, are visited by the visitors who go out upon -the Atlantic in a row-boat. I have seen Niagara and the Falls of the -Rhine, and the Garden of the Gods in Colorado, and a few hundred more -wonderful works of Nature or of giants, and the Causeway is not second -to any of them. - - * * * * * - -Our last stop in Ireland is this town of Londonderry, known in Ireland -as “Derry.” The London end of the name was put on by King James the -First, who was so devoted to his religion that he killed or exiled the -Catholic Irish in Ulster and Derry and gave their lands to Protestant -emigrants from England. A few years later Cromwell finished the job -and got the name of “Thorough,” because of his theory that the only -good Irishman was a dead Irishman. There were terrible religious wars -in Ireland for years, each side getting even for outrages committed by -the other. One great event in the series was the siege of Londonderry -by an Irish army under James the Second, who had been run out of -England by William of Orange. James was about to enter the city with -the consent of the governor, when thirteen apprentice boys banged down -the portcullis, closing the entrance. That started the fight, and the -people of Londonderry decided to stand the siege. They repulsed the -soldiers and James tried to starve ’em out. The siege, which began -with no preparation for defense, lasted seven months, and half the -population died of starvation. The people ate dogs and cats and rats, -a rat selling for three shillings. At last an English fleet broke -through the obstruction in the river, and the remnant of the people of -Londonderry was saved. - - * * * * * - -Those were “good old times.” The Protestants of Londonderry knew if -they surrendered they would meet the same fate that they had accorded -to the Catholics on the capture of Irish towns, and there is hardly -a town in Ireland which cannot duplicate the story of the siege of -Londonderry. Those days are gone, Irish and English have laid aside -their weapons, and except for St. Patrick’s Day or the 12th of July, -which is the anniversary of the battle of the Boyne in which William -defeated James, there is hardly a broken head in the country from -religious causes. - -The walls still stand in Londonderry, and some of the cannon of 1689 -are mounted at the old stand. But the walls are now a promenade and -the cannon are only relics. A Protestant cathedral and a Catholic -cathedral, a Presbyterian college and a Catholic college, are doing -business side by side, and all are doing good. Two steamship lines have -made Derry a regular stop on their way from Glasgow to America. The -principal business of the town is the manufacture of linen and whisky, -most of which is exported to the United States. And Irishmen from -the North of the isle, who want an opportunity and a chance, come to -Derry on their way to the best land of all, discovered by the Spanish, -developed by the English, and ruled generally by the Irish, known and -loved as home now by more Irish than are in Ireland, the U. S. A. - - - - -Scotland and the Scotch - - - GLASGOW, SCOTLAND, September 7. - -Scotland is one of the oldest countries of the civilized world. -Although it is now united with England and is a part of Great -Britain, up to two hundred years ago it had nothing to do with the -English except to fight them. The original inhabitants were Celts, -and came into history as Picts and Scots, who held possession of -the northern part of the country when the Romans conquered England. -After the Romans went away the Saxons arrived and practically wiped -out all the old Britons in England, but made no headway against the -Caledonians or “people of the hills,” as they called the residents -of the north. About the ninth century the various tribes were gotten -together under one chief or king, and from that time until the union -of England and Scotland in 1706 the chief occupation of the Scotch -was to fight the English, who were always trying to conquer Scotland, -but never succeeding. The Scotch and the English were of different -race, language, customs and habits. Much of Scotland, the Highlands, -has little room for agriculture, and the people lived a roving life, -raising a few sheep and oats, and, whenever they felt like it, making -a raid into the Lowlands and into England and bringing back cattle -and supplies to last them until the next raid. They were converted to -Christianity, but their idea of morality never included an injunction -against killing the Lowlander and running off his herd. War was the -name under which nations concealed their crimes of robbery, and the -Highlanders of Scotland had war all the time; so they were officially -justified. When you analyze their romantic history and the great -deeds of their heroes you will always find that no matter how strict -their character and honor among themselves, they never considered it -anything but a praiseworthy action to kill and rob an Englishman. The -reformation by John Knox and his contemporaries filled the Scottish -heads with religious enthusiasm and devotion, but it did not interfere -with the Scottish theory that the English were the natural enemy who -must always be fought. And the English, on their side, reciprocated -the regard in which they were held by the Scotch, and every king -of England who had a chance put in his time trying to conquer the -clansmen. Often the English would defeat the Scotch armies and capture -their chiefs, but they couldn’t any more hold the Scotch territory than -they could hold the red-hot end of a poker. - - * * * * * - -When Elizabeth, Queen of England, died, the next heir to the English -throne was the son of Mary, Queen of Scots, then reigning as James -the Sixth, King of Scotland. He was not only the heir, but he was a -Protestant, and was, therefore, acceptable, and he was duly crowned as -James the First of England. Of course, he went to London to reside, and -from that time to the present England and Scotland have had the same -king, although it was 100 years later before there was any union of -the two governments. In 1706 the Scottish Parliament adopted the act -of union, the majority being secured by shameful and open bribery and -against the protests of the Scottish people, who did not want to be the -tail of the English kite. But the union resulted very beneficially -to Scotland, as it changed the occupation from war to commerce and -from raising hell to raising sheep. The natural shrewdness of the Celt -was stimulated by the industry required in a country where hard work -is necessary, and all over the world Scotchmen are known for their -ability, their keenness in argument, their thrift and their success. -Scotland is as far north as Labrador and Hudson Bay. It has a short -growing season and very little fertile soil. I am wearing an overcoat -and shivering with cold. That kind of a country raises sturdy and -energetic people. - - * * * * * - -It has rained every day and nearly all the time since we arrived. -The Scotch do not seem to mind the wet, but go about their business, -clad in rough, warm clothing. I had quite a talk with a bright old -Scotchman, and, after I had admitted--just as well give in to a -Scotchman without argument--that Scotland was the most beautiful -country on earth, I started a diversion by asking him if it rained all -the time in Scotland. In very broad dialect he said he would tell -us a story that would answer the question. A ship arrived off the -Scotch coast, and, as it was raining, the captain decided to delay -landing until the storm was over. He waited three weeks before the rain -stopped, but finally the sun came out and he put for the shore. Just as -he climbed onto the land the sky darkened and the rain began to fall -again. Of a Scotch lad standing by, the captain asked: “Does it rain -all the time in Scotland?” - -“Naw,” said the lad; “sometimes it snaws.” - - * * * * * - -The agricultural products of Scotland are oats, grass, barley, and a -little wheat. The farms are generally small and the soil poor, and the -great industry is the raising of sheep. In the manufacturing towns the -wool is made into cloth. The chief industry, aside from this, is the -distillery, and a great deal of the product is consumed at home. The -people are poor, and there is little chance for them to improve their -condition and stay in Scotland. The land is owned by big landlords, -and hundreds of square miles are kept for hunting by the proprietors -of the estates. Work as hard as he may, the Scotch tenant farmer has -very little ahead of him except poverty and heaven. The tourists -bring a good deal of money to the country, and are separated from it -in every way the canny Scot can devise. But in spite of poverty and -notwithstanding the evil of intemperance, there is no doubt of the -natural brightness of the Scotch. - - * * * * * - -I had heard all my life of the Scotch heather, and it is one thing -in which I was not disappointed. The Scotch moor, which is something -between a barren field and a swamp, will raise nothing else, and most -of Scotland is moor. Heather is like a weed cedar, if there could be -such a thing, and at this season, when it is in bloom, covers the -ground with a mat of blue. There is also a white heather, which is rare -and to find which is good luck. I was very fortunate, for I picked a -bunch of white heather the first attempt. I picked it from a lad for -a penny, and I recommend that way of hunting for the white kind. But -the blue heather is everywhere, as buffalo-grass used to be on western -prairies. Heather is good for nothing, except as a flower, and it will -not grow anywhere but in Scotland. It is like the hills and woods and -lakes of this country-fair to look upon but not convertible into cash. -It is worn by the people, and a man is hardly dressed up unless he -has a bunch in his cap or his button-hole. The shamrock will not grow -except in Ireland and the heather only in Scotland, and each is held in -loving affection by the people of the country because of its constancy -and patriotism. - - * * * * * - -The Scotch have a way of making oatmeal porridge that justifies its -reputation. But I tried the “haggis,” and once was enough. I do not -know what the component elements of Scotch “haggis” may be, but I -suspect that they are the remnants of the last meal minced together, -with oatmeal and sheep-blood added to make them palatable. The Scotch -people are not high livers. Whatever cannot be made out of oats and -mutton is too high-priced for the ordinary citizen. The farm-house is -generally divided by a solid wall, the family on one side and the cows -and sheep on the other. The people of Scotland always have been poor, -and they are not ashamed of it; but they consider it disgraceful to be -ignorant or irreligious, so they have as good schools and churches as -can be found anywhere outside of America. The men no longer go around -with guns and plaids, calling themselves by the names of their clans, -but there is much family pride, and the traditions of the good old -times of murder and robbery are kept in mind. The English language has -taken the place of the old Gaelic for general use, but the English as -spoken in Scotland is only about second cousin to the English language -as known in Kansas. - -Walter Scott wrote the history of Scotland for the world, and it is -very fortunate for the clansmen that he did. Scott had a picturesque -way of dressing up the costume and character of a dirty highwayman -so that he would appear to be the soul of honor and the pride of -chivalry. He has given some of the kings and dukes, who committed -every crime from arson to murder, the reputation and standing of good -and respectable citizens. His historical novels, in so far as their -description of royal character is concerned, have the merit of beauty -and interest, but not of truth. The Scots were fierce fighters, and -in the days when war meant conquest and conquest meant pillage the -Scots were unexcelled in all lines. Now that the world is putting -up a different standard for success we find the Scotchmen adapting -themselves to modern ideas; and in science, invention, law and commerce -they can show down with any lot of people twice their size on earth. -They are proud of their country, and can recite its legends and -its poems of Burns even if they are so poor that they don’t have a -square meal a day. They love to argue, state their views positively, -contradict flatly, and do not object to taking as good as they send. -They are not polite like the Germans, insinuating like the French, or -reserved like the English. They are abrupt and inconsiderate, though -kind-hearted and helpful, proud and poor, quick-witted and industrious. -If they had any other country’s natural advantages they would own the -earth. - - - - -The Land of Burns - - - AYR, SCOTLAND, September 9. - -Today we have spent in Ayr, the village which bases a claim on fame -because in a humble little cottage, just outside its limits, Robert -Burns, the great Scottish poet, was born. I call Burns “the great -Scottish poet” because it is right that his beloved country should be -linked with his name, but, as a matter of fact, Burns is the poet of -humanity in every land and every clime. His writings jingle like a -familiar song, his thoughts are the thoughts we all think but cannot -express, and his music touches the heartstrings like recollections of -childhood, a letter from home, or the memory of those who are dear -and away. Burns wrote in rhyme the thoughts that came themselves and -not thoughts he had worked up for the occasion. A child of poverty -himself, he was neither blinded to its troubles nor overcome by its -restrictions, and he tells us of the joys and pleasures, the griefs and -sorrows of the people. He puts epigrams into verse and he tells of -things as they are, looking through the shams and deceits and making -good-natured fun of weakness and folly. He never gets away from the -human interest and he never fails in knowledge of human nature. - - * * * * * - -Burns’s father was a farmer, and not a very successful one. He spelled -his name Burness, but for some unknown reason the poet shortened it. -The father was an honest and religious man who was highly respected, -but never made good in a business way. His mother was brighter, and -used to sing Scotch songs and ballads, and if there is anything in -heredity Robert got his poetic instincts from that side of the house. -They were trying to make a nursery pay when Robert was born, and I -visited the cottage where that event took place. One end of the shanty -with three rooms was for the family and the other with two rooms was -for the cattle. The Burnses failed in the nursery business, and rented -a small farm near by, on which Robert spent his boyhood days, not far -from the taverns in Ayr and Irvine, where he learned how to be a -“good fellow” and thus shortened his life. He was 15 years old when -he wrote his first verses, and was helping on the farm and going to -school. After the father died Robert and his brother tried to run the -farm, but the poet got discouraged, and decided to emigrate to Jamaica. -A publisher printed his poems, and he intended to take the money he -received for them to pay his passage. But the book made a hit from the -start, a second edition was called for, and Burns at once attained -great popularity. He gave up the idea of leaving Scotland, and put in -most of the remainder of his days writing, besides holding a small job -which his friends got for him, in the revenue service. He bought a farm -near Dumfries, and lived there and in the town the rest of his short -life, for he died in 1796, when he was only 37 years of age. - -Burns not only enjoyed popularity in his own generation, but in the -more than a century since he wrote his fame has grown steadily and his -genius and talent are appreciated in every part of the world. There -are statues and monuments to Burns all over Scotland, but the greatest -memorial is in the hearts of the people of his own country and of -all others into which his songs have gone. Wherever there is a son or -daughter of Scotland there is a lover of “Bobby Burns.” - - * * * * * - -It was a little thrilling to be shown the inn where “Tam O’Shanter” -loitered that stormy night in Ayr-- - - “Auld Ayr, wham ne’er a town surpasses, - For honest men and bonnie lasses.” - -It will be remembered that Tam and his crony, Souter Johnny, (both -honored by statues now,) had spent the evening most merrily, and it -came time for Tam to go home to his wife, who had frequently told -Tam what would happen to him after one of those sprees. And the poet -philosophizes: - - “Ah, gentle dames! it gars me greet - To think how mony counsels sweet, - How mony lengthen’d sage advices, - The husband frae the wife despises!” - -Tam started for home on his good gray mare, Meg, but when he reached -old Alloway Church he saw lights, and, made brave by the Scotch whisky, -he boldly looked in. He saw the witches dancing, the devil playing the -fifes, and a young woman he knew was in the carousal. Tam foolishly -called, the lights went out, and it was up to Meg to get away from the -swarm of witches who came in hot pursuit. The leading lady of the gang -was right upon poor Tam when he came to the bridge, his hope of escape, -for witches cannot cross running water. With one great jump Meg saved -her master. - - “Ane spring brought off her master, hale, - But left behind her ain grey tail; - The carlin claught her by the rump, - And left poor Maggie scarce a stump.” - -I have seen the tavern, the church, the bridge, the statue of Tam, but -a grateful public has forgotten to properly commemorate the services of -Meg and the sacrifice of the tail. - -Across the river Ayr are “the auld brig” and “the new brig” which -held a joint debate as reported by Burns’s muse. The city council was -recently about to take down the auld brig because it was unsafe, but -a general howl went up, and the bridge is to be preserved. All of the -relics of Burns are being taken care of, and so far as possible the -old cottage and other places connected with his life are restored to -the condition they were in when Burns was plowing and quit work to -write poetry to a mouse he had stirred out of its nest. I can readily -understand why Burns did not make a success as a farmer, for like other -poets he did not like to work. However, the dislike for work is not -confined to poets, who have more of an excuse for this fault than the -rest of us. - - * * * * * - -I have not yet found a Scotchman who cannot quote Burns’s poetry by the -yard. It is all I can do to read most of Burns’s lines, and the words I -skip often look rough and jagged. But when a Scotchman recites Burns, -the dialect and the broad accent make the rhymes sound like music. The -strange syllables fit together in harmony so that one can understand -that Burns knew what he was about when he used the local phrases and -words in so much of his writing. Burns was a good scholar, and could -and did write the purest of English, but he took the homely phrases of -the Scottish life to make the common things he writes about ring clear -and right. - - * * * * * - -Ayr is about forty miles from Glasgow. As soon as you leave the Burns -neighborhood you get into a country of coal mines, factories, and golf -links. There are miles of golf grounds on the moors along the road. -Most of the land is only fit to raise heather and lose golf balls. No -wonder Burns’s father failed and Robert was going to emigrate. The -more I see of Scottish soil the more I take off my hat to the Scotch -farmers, who must be the bravest men in the world. - - * * * * * - -About fifty years ago Andrew Carnegie, then a lad of a half-dozen -years, took his father by the hand and led him onto the ship at Glasgow -which brought them to America. In all the Scotch towns there are -Carnegie libraries and other benefactions from the Scotch boy. His -shrewdness and industry are the result of Scotch character when given -full play in an open field. On the other hand, Burns with his talent -and his weakness exhibits another result of the sentimental yet canny -Scot who sees through humanity and analyzes it. - -To read the poetry of Robert Burns is to be wiser, better and happier. -The day spent in this little nook in which he began his life has -brought much of Burns’s surroundings vividly to my mind. The little -hovel in which he was born contrasts with the great monument reared by -a grateful country, and proves his words if they needed proof: - - “A king can make a belted knight, - A marquis, duke, and a’ that, - But an honest man’s aboon his might, - Guid faith, he mauna fa’ that. - For a’ that and a’ that, - Their dignities and a’ that, - The pith of sense and pride o’ worth, - Are higher rank, than a’ that.” - - - - -The Journey’s End - - - STEAMSHIP CAMERONIA, September 21. - -For some unexplainable reason the ship homeward-bound is always slow. -When one leaves his own country on a journey to other lands he is in -no hurry. The new pictures that constantly present themselves, the new -objects and the talk that suggests new ideas, hopes and plans, make -the days go swiftly by and the voyage is never too long or tiresome. -But when months of travel have exhausted the appetite for sights, and -the occurrence of the strange no longer starts a thrill, the thoughts -of the traveler far exceed the speed of the ship and the fastest boat -that crosses the Atlantic is too slow. This is the only excuse I can -find for the Cameronia, which sailed four days later than scheduled, -and has developed no traits which will be affectionately remembered by -the present passengers. She is a new ship, and not finished. I suppose -the Anchor line needed the money or it would not have started a vessel -across the ocean with so many things not completed and untried. And -then the Cameronia has shown great ability as a pitcher, also as a -roller, and if a contest is begun as to what ship can pitch and roll, -kick and buck and snort the best, I will back the Cameronia against the -field. - - * * * * * - -The ocean along the northern coast of Ireland has a habit of being -busy. The currents from the south and the Arctic meet the turbulent -waves from the Irish Sea, and a watery Donnybrook fair is the result. -The Cameronia enjoyed the opportunity, and although the passengers -generally took their evening meal a majority of them went dinnerless -to bed, and they went early and with much haste. There is no known -remedy for seasickness. The Rockefeller foundation which is discovering -wonderful germs, on which every other ill can be laid, has not found -the bacillus which started the trouble on the Cameronia. The ship’s -doctor calmly advises you to put your finger down your throat and aid -nature in her work. He assures you that the disease is not fatal, -although you may wish it were, and he encourages you in the faith that -every minute will be your next. The seasick ones lose temporarily any -other trouble or ailments, and often forget their own names, imagining -probably that these have gone with the rest. The story is told of a -time like the one in question, that a sympathizing officer came to a -man and woman who were leaning against each other with a common misery. -“Is your husband very sick?” he inquired of the evidently cultured and -modest lady. “He’s not my husband,” she faintly answered, as she leaned -on her companion once again. “Your brother?” continued the butter-in. -“I never saw him before,” she murmured, clasping again at the wobbly -supporter under discussion. - - * * * * * - -This is a Scotch boat, and she has some Scotch traits. The Scotch -people are wonderful. In a land which is nearly all poor pasture and -good golf links, they have developed a citizenship which intellectually -leads the world. But they are not given to covering up unpleasant spots -and they do not go too strong for things of mere beauty or comfort. -There is no blarney-stone in the Highlands. The Scotch are probably -the poorest hotel managers in the world. The graces and the pleasantry -of the continent are despised, and everything coming to a Scotchman is -expected on the day it is due. This habit of thrift is necessary in a -land where it has always been a fight for man to get a result in the -way of bread or meat or porridge. There is little humor in the Scotch -nature, and every action is based on serious thought. The Cameronia is -getting us across just as was promised, but with no frills or furbelows -in the way of personal attention or entertainment. - - * * * * * - -Of course there is a great deal in their viewpoint, and what seems -right and proper in one country is often looked upon with horror in -another. Sunday on the Cameronia was Sunday as it is in Glasgow. The -Anchor line would no more sail a ship without divine service than it -would without a rudder. It would no more permit the pianist to play -secular music like “America” or “Swanee River” on Sunday than it would -allow a passenger to take the captain’s place. But all the Sabbath -Day the Anchor line sells booze openly and without a compunction of -conscience. A compulsorily closed piano and an open bar look strange -from the viewpoint of a traveler from Kansas. - - * * * * * - -I do not want to seem to be faultfinding, so I will only say that -the grand concert on the Cameronia was not much worse than is usual -on shipboard. Everybody knows that during a voyage some night is -designated as concert night, a program is given by the passengers, -and a collection taken for the benefit of the Sailors’ Home or some -such charitable object. But only those who have actually made the trip -and attended a concert realize the painful nature of the operation. -A notice is posted on the bulletin board asking for volunteers for -the program, and aspiring genius directly or through friends offers -itself for the entertainment. A dignified gentleman who can’t tell a -funny story but thinks he can is selected for chairman. Sometimes a -really good musician or entertainer is inadvertently included in the -program, but this is not often. No mistake is made in the choice of -pretty girls who take up the collection. Our concert was opened by a -bass solo, the guilty party being a man with his name parted in the -middle and old enough to know better. He rendered (that’s the proper -word) the old Roman favorite, “Only a Pansy Blossom.” When he came to -the chorus about a faded flower he waved a yellow chrysanthemum in -the air to a tremulo accompaniment. This was not a comic song, but -a serious, sentimental selection, and the singer was an Englishman. -The Scotch and English in the room heaved sighs and said to each -other, “How beautiful!” The Americans poked each other in the ribs and -almost wept in the effort to restrain their laughter. Of course he -was encored, and he rendered again. This time it was a ballad about -the golden tress of my darling, and in the touchiest of the touching -lines he drew forth from his vest a piece of female switch, peroxide -in color and horsetailish in effect. It was a great effort, and the -serious fellow-country-men heaved more sighs of appreciation, while -an American girl at my right whispered out of her handerchief, “I -know I’m going to scream!” Then a Scotchman sang an Irish song. Now a -Scotchman can’t get the Irish brogue any more than he can understand -an American joke. He was enthusiastically encored, and responded with -a French dialect story, in broad Scotch. It was funnier than he knew. -An amateur violinist contributed an execution of a sonata or a nocturne -or a cordial of some kind. A famous story-teller recited a few choice -bits from the column of some London magazine, on which the American -copyright expired many years ago. The chairman in a few touching words -then explained the object of the charity for which the fund was to be -collected, and the touching was completed by the young ladies with -pleasant smiles. - -Such is a ship’s concert, and with slight variations it is one of the -features of every ocean voyage. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: INTRODUCING A JOKE TO OUR BRITISH COUSINS] - -I have alluded to the lack of humor in Great Britain, from the American -viewpoint. I heard a good joke on the Scotch, and told it to a small -crowd in the smoking-room. The story was of the boy who asked his -father why there was such a coin as a farthing, the fourth part -of a penny. The father replied that it was to enable the Scotch to -be charitable. Nobody laughed, and I resumed a discussion of the -weather. About five minutes afterward an Englishman roared with mirth, -and shouted to me, “I follow you! I follow you!” I didn’t understand -why he was following me until he began my story, which he repeated -with explanations and reminders of the proverbial Scotch thrift. Then -he told it again and laughed loudly. The others smiled courteously -and then face after face broadened, they all “followed,” and nobody -appreciated the joke more than the Scotchmen. They told the story to -each other and laughed, then hunted up friends and told it until the -friends “followed,” and I was pointed out as a humorist. But it was a -long and painful operation, and I did not have the courage to try it -again. These British cousins are not devoid of humor but their speed -limit is far below ours. - - * * * * * - -The harbor of New York is in sight and the pilot just came aboard. I -witnessed an affecting scene. A fellow-passenger shouted vigorously -to get the attention of a man who was sitting in the pilot boat. The -man looked up, and I could tell the passenger was nervously preparing -to ask for important news, perhaps of the strike, or the English -elections. He called, “Who’s ahead in the National League?” - - * * * * * - -No coast looks as beautiful as the shore of home. Even New Jersey looms -magnificently at such a time. The passengers are all on deck except -those who are hiding articles from the customs officer. The returning -Americans are full of enthusiasm. They have seen enough of other -lands to know that there is none to compare with the United States, -none which comes nearer to giving a man a chance. The foreigners in -the first cabin watch the approaching scene with quiet interest. Over -in the steerage hundreds of would-be Americans gaze eagerly at the -land of hope and promise. Soon they will be welcomed by the Statue of -Liberty which holds out the torch of citizenship to every alien with -ten dollars in cash and a certificate of health. The American flag -appears on passing boats, and it is the most beautiful as it is the -most meaning of all the ensigns of all the nations. A man with a German -accent tells me how forty years ago, when a mere boy, he came from -the fatherland to try his fortune in the New World. This year he went -back for a visit, but he had a stateroom and was not in the steerage. -He saw the struggle and the lack of opportunity in the country of his -birth. Now he is homeward-bound, satisfied that in spite of trusts -and politics and coon songs, this is really the land of the free, the -nation of opportunity; and as the pilot took charge and the American -flag went to the top of the Cameronia’s mast, a tear trickled down his -cheek, telling of the joy in his heart. - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - -Hyphenation has been standardised. - -A Table of Illustrations has been created by the Transcriber and is -placed in the Public Domain. - -Page 61 — protraying changed to portraying. - -Page 113 — commerical changed to commercial. - -Page 121 — slipping changed to sipping. - -Page 141 — langauges changed to languages. - -Page 163 — Boulougne changed to Boulogne. - -Page 169 — 1060 changed to 1066. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JAYHAWKER IN EUROPE*** - - -******* This file should be named 65744-0.txt or 65744-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/5/7/4/65744 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - |