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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-22 21:49:37 -0800 |
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diff --git a/old/65744-h/65744-h.htm b/old/65744-h/65744-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index aab03e0..0000000 --- a/old/65744-h/65744-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7356 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> -<head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> -<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Jayhawker in Europe, by W. Y. (William Yoast) Morgan</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/i_cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -.gothic { - font-family: "Old English Text MT", Gothic, - "Cloister Black", "Palatino Linotype", serif; -} - -.space-above2 { - margin-top: 2em;} - -.space-above4 { - margin-top: 4em;} - -/* fonts */ - - .p70 { - font-size: 0.70em; - text-align: center; -} - - .p80 { - font-size: 0.80em; - text-align: center; -} - - .p110 { - font-size: 1.10em; - text-align: center; -} - - .p130 { - font-size: 1.30em; - text-align: center; - font-weight: bold; -} - -.p210 { - font-size: 2.10em; - text-align: center; - font-weight: bold; -} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -/* Horizontal rules */ - -hr.small { - width: 10%; - margin-left: 45.0%; - margin-right: 45.0%; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; -} - -hr.chap1 {width: 65%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 17.5%; - margin-right: 17.5%; - border:4px double gray; -} - -hr.tb {width: 20%; - margin-left: 40.0%; - margin-right: 40.0%; - border: 3px double gray; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; -} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -/* tables */ - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - -table.toi { - margin: auto; - width:auto; - max-width: 40em; -} - -.toc { - margin: auto; - width:auto; - max-width: 40em; -} - -td.pag { - font-weight: normal; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - padding-left: 2em;} - -.contents { - padding-left: 2em; - text-indent: -1em; - max-width: 100%; -} - -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdr {text-align: right;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; -} /* page numbers */ - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.right {text-align: right; - margin-right: 2em;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold; - font-size: smaller;} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry-container {text-align: center;} -.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} -/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ -/* .poetry {display: inline-block;} */ -.poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} -.poetry .verse {text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 8em;} -/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ -@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } -.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} - - -/* Poetry indents */ -.poetry .indent10 {text-indent: 2em;} -.poetry .indent2 {text-indent: -2em;} -.poetry .indent6 {text-indent: 0em;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - - - h1.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 190%; - margin-top: 0em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - h2.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 135%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - page-break-before: avoid; - line-height: 1; } - h3.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 110%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - h4.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 100%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - hr.pgx { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - </style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pgx" title="">The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Jayhawker in Europe, by W. Y. (William -Yoast) Morgan</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: A Jayhawker in Europe</p> -<p>Author: W. Y. (William Yoast) Morgan</p> -<p>Release Date: July 2, 2021 [eBook #65744]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JAYHAWKER IN EUROPE***</p> -<h4 class="pgx" title="">E-text prepared by Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (https://www.pgdp.net)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (https://archive.org)</h4> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/jayhawkerineurop00morg - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<div class="transnote"> -<h2 class="nopagebreak" title="">Transcriber’s Note.</h2> - -<p>Changes made are noted at the <a href="#end_note" title="Go to the End Note">end of the book.</a></p> -</div> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_cover.jpg" alt="" width="711" height="1100" /> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h1>A Jayhawker <i>in</i> Europe</h1> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center p130"> A<br /> - Jayhawker <i>in</i> Europe</p> - -<hr class="small" /> - -<p class="center p80"> BY</p> -<p class="center p110"> W. Y. MORGAN</p> -<p class="center p80"> <em>Author of “A Journey of a Jayhawker”</em></p> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_003.jpg" alt="" width="43" height="40" /> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<p class="center p70"> MONOTYPED AND PRINTED BY</p> -<p class="center p70"> CRANE & COMPANY</p> -<p class="center p70"> TOPEKA</p> -<p class="center p70"> 1911</p> -</div> - -<hr class="small" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center p70"> Copyright 1911,</p> -<p class="center p70"> <span class="smcap">By Crane & Company</span></p> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap1 x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Preface">Preface</h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">These</span> letters were printed in the Hutchinson -<cite>Daily News</cite> during the summer of 1911. -There was no ulterior motive, no lofty purpose, -just the reporter’s idea of telling what -he saw.</p> - -<p>They are now put in book form without -revision or editing, because the writer would -probably make them worse if he tried to make -them better.</p> - -<p class="right">W. Y. MORGAN.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hutchinson, Kansas</span>, November 1, 1911.</p> -</div> - - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center"><span class="gothic">To the Jayhawkers<br /> - who stay at home and take their European trips<br /> - in their minds and in the books, this<br /> - volume is respectfully dedicated<br /> - by one of the<br /> - gadders</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Table_of_Contents">Table of Contents</h2> -</div> - -<table summary="Contents" class="toc"> -<tr> - <th> </th> - <td class="tdr"><small><i>Page</i></small></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">New York in the Hot Time</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_1" title="Page 1">1</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Breaking Away</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_7" title="Page 7">7</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">On the Potsdam</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Lions of the Ship</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_18" title="Page 18">18</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Ocean Currents</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_25" title="Page 25">25</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Dutch Folks</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_30" title="Page 30">30</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">In Old Dordrecht</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_37" title="Page 37">37</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Dutchesses</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_44" title="Page 44">44</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Pilgrims’ Start</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_50" title="Page 50">50</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Amsterdam, and Others</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_56" title="Page 56">56</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Cheeses and Bulbses</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_63" title="Page 63">63</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Historic Leyden</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_72" title="Page 72">72</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Dutch Capital</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_80" title="Page 80">80</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"> “<span class="smcap">The Dutch Company</span>,”</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_88" title="Page 88">88</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Great River</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_96" title="Page 96">96</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Along the Rhine</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_104" title="Page 104">104</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"> <span class="smcap">In German Towns</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_112" title="Page 112">112</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Arriving in Paris</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_120" title="Page 120">120</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The French Character</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_127" title="Page 127">127</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"> <span class="smcap">The Latin Quarter</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_135" title="Page 135">135</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Boulevards of Paris</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_144" title="Page 144">144</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Some French Ways</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_154" title="Page 154">154</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"> <span class="smcap">In Dover Town</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_162" title="Page 162">162</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Old Canterbury Today</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_169" title="Page 169">169</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The English Strike</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_178" title="Page 178">178</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"> <span class="smcap">Englishman the Great</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_187" title="Page 187">187</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The North of Ireland</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_198" title="Page 198">198</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">Scotland and the Scotch</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_211" title="Page 211">211</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"> <span class="smcap">The Land of Burns</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_220" title="Page 220">220</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="contents"><span class="smcap">The Journey’s End</span>.</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_228" title="Page 228">228</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2>TABLE OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - - <table class="toi" summary="Illustrations"> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td class="smcap right"><small><small>FACING PAGE</small></small></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The scrubbing-brush the national emblem of Holland</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">No place for a man from Kansas</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The poet Byron building castles</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The handsome knight she met in Elmdale Park</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The plain Quadrille at the Moulin Rouge</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Seeing London from the old English bus</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_188">188</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Introducing a joke to our British cousins</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_234">234</a></td> - </tr> -</table> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap1 x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> -<p class="center p210"> A Jayhawker <i>in</i> Europe</p> -<hr class="tb" /> - - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="New_York_in_the_Hot_Time">New York in the Hot Time</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">New York</span>, July 10, 1911.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The last day on American soil before starting -on a trip to other lands should be marked -with a proper spirit of seriousness, and I would -certainly live up to the propriety of the occasion -if it were not for two things,—the -baggage and the weather. But how can a -man heave a sigh of regret at departing from -home, when he is chasing over Jersey City and -Hoboken after a stray trunk, and the thermometer -is breaking records for highness and -the barometer for humidity? I have known -some tolerably warm zephyrs from the south -which were excitedly called “hot winds,” but -they were balmy and pleasant to the touch -in comparison with the New York hot wave -which wilts collar, shirt and backbone into -one mass. The prospect of tomorrow being -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span>out on the big water with a sea breeze and a -northeast course does not seem bad, even if -you are leaving the Stars and Stripes and -home and friends. There is nothing like hot, -humid weather to destroy patriotism, love, -affection, and common civility. I speak in -mild terms, but I have returned from Hoboken, -the station just the other side of the -place whose existence is denied by the Universalists. -This is the place the ship starts -from, and not from New York, as it is advertised -to do.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Speaking of weather reminds me that the -West is far ahead of New York in the emancipation -of men. The custom here is for men -to wear coats regardless of the temperature, -whereas in the more intelligent West a man is -considered dressed up in the evening if he -takes off his gallusses along with his coat. -Last night we went to a “roof garden” and -expected that it would be a jolly Bohemian -affair, but every man sat with his coat on and -perspired until he couldn’t tell whether the -young ladies of the stage were kicking high -or not, and worse than that, he did not care.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span></p> -<p>I have been again impressed with the fact -that there are no flies in New York City. -There are no screens on the windows, not -even of the dining-rooms, and yet I have not -seen a fly. I wish Dr. Crumbine would tell -us why it is that flies swarm out in Kansas -and leave without a friendly visit such a rich -pasture-ground as they would find on the -millions of humans on Manhattan island. If -I were a fly I would leave the swatters and the -hostile board of health of Kansas, and take -the limited train for New York and one perpetual -picnic for myself and family.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>This afternoon I went to the ball game, of -course. Some people would have gone to the -art exhibit or the beautiful public library. -But New York and Chicago were to play and -Matthewson was to pitch, and the call of duty -prevailed over the artistic yearnings which -would have taken me elsewhere. Coming -home from the game I had an idea—which is -a dangerous thing to do in hot weather. There -has been a good deal of talk in the newspapers -about the Republicans not agreeing on a candidate, -and the question as to whether Taft -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span>can be reëlected or not is being vigorously -debated. Put ’em all out and nominate -Christy Matthewson. This would insure the -electoral vote of New York, for if the Republicans -put “Matty” on the ticket the election -returns would be so many millions for -Matthewson and perhaps a few scattering.</p> - -<p>There were about as many errors and boneheads -in the game between Chicago and New -York as there would be in a Kansas State -League game, and more than would come to -pass in the match between the barbers and -the laundrymen of Hutchinson. The players -did not indulge in that brilliant repartee with -the umpire which is a feature of the Kansas -circuit, and the audience, while expressing its -opinion of the judgments, had no such wealth -of phrases as pours over the boxes from the -grandstand at home. The language used -could have come from the ministerial alliance, -and sometimes the game seemed more like a -moving-picture show than a real live game of -baseball. Chicago won, 3 to 2 in ten innings, -and I feel that my European trip is a decided -success so far.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> -<p>This morning I took a little walk down Wall -street and saw the place in which the Great -Red Dragon lives. These New York bankers -and brokers are not so dangerous as I have -been led to believe by reading some of the -speeches in Congress. There was no blood -around the Standard Oil building, and the -office of J. Pierpont was filled with men who -looked as uncomfortable and unhappy as I -felt with the heat. Sometimes I think the -men of Wall street, New York, are just like -the men at home,—getting all they can under -the rules of the game and only missing the -bases when the umpire looks the other way. -The few with whom I talked were really concerned -about the crops and the welfare of the -people of Kansas, perhaps because they have -some of their money invested in our State, and -I got the idea that Wall street and all it -represents is interested in the prosperity of -the country and knows that hard times anywhere -mean corresponding trouble for some -of them in New York.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>New York is a growing city. In many respects -it is like Hutchinson. The street pav<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span>ing -is full of holes and new buildings are going -up in every direction. Every few months -“the highest skyscraper” is erected, and now -one is being constructed that will have fifty or -sixty stories—it doesn’t matter which. The -buildings are faced with brick or stone, but -really built of iron. I saw one today on which -the bricklaying had been begun at the seventh -story and was proceeding in both directions. -That was the interesting feature of the building -to me. That and the absence of flies and -the baseball game are the general results of -my efforts today to see something of the greatest -city in America.</p> - -<p>We sail tomorrow morning. Then it will -be ten days on the ship for us. One thing -about an ocean voyage is reasonably sure: -If you don’t like it you can’t get off and walk. -A really attractive feature is that there is no -dust and you don’t watch the clouds and wish -it would rain so you will not have to water the -lawn.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Breaking_Away">Breaking Away</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Steamship Potsdam</span>, July 11.</p> - -<p>The sailing of an ocean steamer is always a -scene of delightful confusion and excitement. -Thousands of people throng the pier and the -ship, saying goodbyes to the hundreds who are -about to leave. The journey across the ocean, -though no longer a matter of danger or hardship, -is yet enough of an event to start the -emotions and make the emoters forget everything -but the watery way and the long absence.</p> - -<p>The crowd is anxious, expectant, sad, and -unrestrained. Men who rarely show personal -feeling look with glistening eyes on the friends -to be left behind. Women, who are always -seeing disaster to their loved ones, strive with -pats, caresses and fond phrases to say the -consoling words or to express the terror in -their hearts. The timid girl, off for a year’s -study, wishes she had not been so venturesome. -The father rubs his eyes and talks -loudly about the baggage. The mother clings -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span>to her son’s arm and whispers to him how she -will pray for him every night, and hopes he -will change his underclothes when the days are -cool. Young folks hold hands and tell each -other of the constant remembrance that they -will have. Big bouquets of flowers are brought -on by stewards, the trunks go sliding up the -plank and into the ship, the officers strut up -and down, conscious of the admiring glances -of the curious, orders are shouted, sailors go -about tying and untying ropes, the rich family -parades on with servants and boxes, the -whistle blows for the visitors to leave, and the -final goodbyes and “write me” and “lock the -back door” and “tell Aunt Mary” and such -phrases fill the air while handkerchiefs alternately -wipe and wave.</p> - -<p>Slowly the big boat backs into the stream -amid a fog of cheers and sobs, then goes -ahead down the harbor, past the pier still -alive with fluttering handkerchiefs, the voices -no longer to be heard, and the passengers feel -that sinking of the heart that comes from the -knowledge of the separation by time and distance -coming to them for weeks and months, -perhaps forever. Sorrowfully they strain for -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span>a last look at the crowd, now too far away to -distinguish the wanted face, and then they -turn around, look at their watches, and -wonder how long it will be before lunch. -Of course the Dutch band played the Star-Spangled -Banner as the boat trembled and -started; of course the last passenger arrived -just a minute late and was prevented from -making an effort to jump the twenty feet of -water which then separated the ship from the -pier. Of course the boys sold American flags -and souvenir post cards. Of course the tourists -wondered if they would be seasick and -their friends rather hoped they would be, -though they did not say so. The steamboats -whistled salutes, and the band changed its -tune to a Dutch version of “The Girl I Left -Behind Me,” and with flags flying the Potsdam -moved past the big skyscrapers, past the -Battery, alongside the Statue of Liberty, and -out toward the Atlantic like a swan in Riverside -Park. The voyage has begun. The -traveler has to look after his baggage, which -is miraculously on board, find his deck chairs -and his dining-room seats, and between times -rush out occasionally to get one more glimpse -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span>of the New Jersey coast, which is never very -pretty except when you are homeward bound, -when even Oklahoma would look good.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>This boat, the Potsdam, of the Holland-American -line, is not one of the big and magnificent -floating hotels which take travelers -across the Atlantic so rapidly that they do not -get acquainted with each other and in such -style that they think they are at a summer -resort. But it is a good-sized, easy-sailing, -slow-going ship that will take about ten days -across and has every comfort which the Dutch -can think of, and they are long on having -things comfortable. It has a reputation for -steadiness and good meals which makes it -popular with people who have traveled the -Atlantic and who enjoy the ocean voyage as -the best part of a trip abroad. It lands at -Rotterdam, one of the best ports of Europe -and right in the center of the most interesting -part of the Old World.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The pilot left us at Sandy Hook, and now -the Potsdam is sailing right out into the big -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span>water. A cool breeze has taken the place of -the hot air of New York. The ocean is -smooth; there is neither roll nor heave to the -ship. Everybody is congratulating himself -that this is to be a smooth voyage. A substantial -luncheon is still staying where it belongs, -and we are looking over the other passengers -and being looked over by them. There -is no chance to get off and go back if we -wanted to do so. And we don’t want to—not -yet.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="On_the_Potsdam">On the Potsdam</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Steamship Potsdam</span>, July 14.</p> - -<p>The daily life on shipboard might be considered -monotonous if one were being paid for -it, but under the present circumstances and -surroundings the time goes rapidly. Everybody -has noticed that the things he is obliged -to do are dull and uninteresting. Any ordinary -American would demand about $10 a day -for fastening himself in a boat and remaining -there for ten days. He would get tired of -the society, sick of the meals and sore on his -job. But call it “fun” and he pays $10 a day -for the pleasure of the ride. The Potsdam is -560 feet long, sixty-two feet wide, and seven -stories high,—four above the water-line and -three below. On this trip its first-class accommodations -are filled, about 260 people; -but the second class is not crowded, and less -than a hundred steerage passengers occupy -that part of the ship which often carries 2,100 -people. The steerage is crowded on the trip -to America, filled with men and women who -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span>are leaving home and fatherland in order to -do better for themselves and their children. -They go back in later years, for a visit, but -they do not travel in the steerage. They -carry little American flags and scatter thoughts -of freedom and free men in the older lands.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>This is a Dutch ship and the language of -the officers and crew is Dutch. While a few of -them speak some English and most of them -know a little, the general effect is that of -getting into an entirely foreign environment. -The Dutch language is a peculiar blend. It -seems to be partly derived from the German, -partly from the English, and partly from the -Choctaw. The pronunciation is difficult because -it is unlike the German, the English -or the Latin tongues. An ordinary word -spelled out looks like a freight train of box -cars with several cabooses. As one of my -Dutch fellow-passengers said when he was instructing -me how to pronounce the name of -the capital of Holland, “Don’t try to say it; -sneeze it.” A great deal of interest is added to -the smallest bits of conversation by the doubt -as to whether the Dutch speaker is telling you -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span>that it is dinner-time or whether he has -swallowed his store teeth.</p> - -<p>Which reminds me of a little story Ben -Nusbaum told me of the Dutchman who came -into the Oxford café, sat up to the counter -and in proper Dutch etiquette greeted the -waiter with the salutation, “Wie gehts?” -Turning toward the kitchen the waiter sang -out, “wheat cakes!” “Nein! nein!” shouted -the Dutchman. “Nine,” said the waiter, -scornfully; “you’ll be dam lucky if you get -three!”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The principal occupation on board a Dutch -ship is eating, and the next most important -is drinking. The eats begin with a hearty -breakfast from 8 to 10 o’clock. At 11 o’clock, -beef soup, sandwiches and crackers. At 12:30, -an elaborate luncheon. At 4 o’clock, afternoon -tea, with sandwiches and fancy cakes. At 7 -o’clock, a great dinner. At 9 o’clock, coffee, -sandwiches, etc. Any time between these -meals you can get something to eat, anything -from beef to buns, and the table in the smoking-room -is always loaded with cheese, sausage, -ham, cakes and all the little knick-knacks -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span>that tempt you to take one as you go by. -And yet there is surprise that some people -are seasick.</p> - -<p>You can get anything you want to drink -except water, which is scarce, and apparently -only used for scrubbing and bathing. Of -course the steward will find you a little water, -if you are from Kansas, but he thinks you are -sick, wants to add a hot-water bag, and suggests -that the ship doctor might help you -some.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I have spoken before of the Dutch band. -It is a good one, and loves to play. The first -concert is at 10 in the morning. There is -orchestra music during luncheon and dinner, -and band concerts afternoon and evening. I -like a German band, or a Dutch band, so long -as it sticks to its proper répertoire. But there -never was a German band that could play -“My Old Kentucky Home” and “Swanee -River,” and every German band persists in -doing so in honor of the Americans. I suppose -this desire to do something you can’t do -is not confined to Dutch musicians. I know -a man who can whistle like a bird, but he in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span>sists -that he is a violinist, and plays second -fiddle. I know a singer with a really great -voice who persists in the theory that he can -recite, which he can’t. Therefore he is a -great bore, and nobody thinks he can even -sing. Nearly all of us are afflicted some along -this line, and the Dutch band on the Potsdam -is merely accenting the characteristic in brass.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Today I saw a whale. Every time I am on -the ocean I see a whale. At first nobody else -could see it, but soon a large number could. -There was a good deal of excitement, and the -passengers divided into two factions, those -who saw the whale and those who didn’t and -who evidently thought we didn’t. The argument -lasted nearly all the morning, and would -be going on yet if a ship had not appeared in -the distance, and our passengers divided -promptly as to whether it was a Cunarder, a -French liner, or a Norwegian tramp freighter. -This discussion will take our valuable time all -the afternoon. Friends will become enemies, -and some of those who rallied around the whale -story are almost glaring at each other over -the nationality of that distant vessel. I am -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span>trying to keep out of this debate, as I am -something of a Hero because I saw the whale. -I have already told of my nautical experience -on Cow creek, so while I feel I would be considered -an authority, it is better to let some -of the other ambitious travelers get a reputation.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Lions_of_the_Ship">The Lions of the Ship</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Steamship Potsdam</span>, July 19.</p> - -<p>There are always "lions" on a ship, not the -kind that roar and shake their manes, but -those the other passengers point at and afterward -recall with pride. I often speak carelessly -of the time I crossed with Willie Vandergould, -although he never left his room during -the voyage and was probably sleeping off the -effects of a long spree. Once I was a fellow-passenger -with Julia Marlowe, a fact Julia -never seemed to recognize. There are always -a few counts and capitalists on an ocean -steamer, and a ship without a lion is unfortunate. -Our largest and finest specimen is -Booth Tarkington, the head of the Indiana -school of fiction, an author whose books have -brought him fame and money, and a playwright -whose dramatizations have won success. -He is the tamest lion I ever crossed with. -He is delightfully democratic, not a bit chesty, -but rather modest, and as friendly to a traveling -Jayhawker as he is to the distinguished -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span>members of the company. In fact, he understands -and speaks the Kansas language like -a native. His ideal of life is to have a home -on an island in the track of the ocean steamers -so he can sit on the porch and watch the ships -come and go. Not for me. It is too much -like living in a Kansas town where No. 3 and -No. 4 do not stop, and every day the locomotives -snort and go by without even hesitating.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Tarkington is an honest man, so he says, -and he tells good sea stories. His favorite -true story is of Toboga Bill, a big shark which -followed ships up and down the South-American -coast, foraging off the scraps the cooks -threw overboard. Tarkington’s friend, Captain -Harvey, got to noticing that on every trip -his boat was escorted by Toboga Bill, whose -bald spot on top and a wart on the nose made -him easily recognizable. Harvey got to feeding -him regularly with the spoiled meat and -vegetables, and Toboga Bill would come to the -surface, flop his fin at the captain and thank -him as plainly as a shark could do. After -several years of this mutual acquaintance the -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span>captain happened to be in a small-boat going -out to his ship at a Central-American port. -The boat upset, and the captain and sailors -were immediately surrounded by a herd of -man-eating sharks. The shore was a mile -away and the captain swam that distance, the -only one who escaped; and all the way he -could see Toboga Bill with his fin standing up -straight, keeping the other sharks from his -old friend. Occasionally Toboga would give -the captain a gentle shove, and finally pushed -him onto the beach.</p> - -<p>This story Tarkington admitted sounded -like a fish story, but he has a motor-boat -named Toboga Bill, which verifies the tale.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>That reminded me of a Kansas fish story -which I introduced to the audience. Everybody -in Kansas knows of the herd of hornless -catfish which has been bred near the Bowersock -dam at Lawrence. Some years ago Mr. -Bowersock, who owns the dam that furnishes -power for the mill and other factories, conceived -the idea that big Kaw river catfish -going through the mill-race and onto the water-wheel -added much to the power generated. -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span>Then he read that fish are very sensitive to -music. So he hired a man with an accordion -to stand over the mill-race and play. The -catfish came from up and down stream to -hear the music, and almost inevitably drifted -through the race, onto the wheel, and increased -the power. The fishes’ horns used to -get entangled in the wheel and injure the fish; -so Mr. Bowersock, who is a kind-hearted man -and very persistent, had a lot of the fish caught -and dehorned, and in a year or two he had a -large herd of hornless catfish. These fish not -only turn out to hear the music, but they have -learned to enjoy the trip through the mill-race -and over the wheel, so that every Sunday -or oftener whole families of catfish—and they -have large families—come to Bowersock’s dam -to shoot the chutes something as people go -out to ride on the scenic railway. Whenever -the water in the river gets low Mr. Bowersock -has the band play: the catfish gather and go -round and round over the wheel, furnishing -power for the Bowersock mill when every -other wheel on the river is idle from lack of -water.</p> - -<p>There were some skeptical folks who heard -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span>my simple story and affected to disbelieve. -But I assured them that it could be easily -proven, and if they would go to Lawrence I -would show them the Bowersock dam and the -catfish. It is always a good idea to have the -proofs for a fish story.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The next “lion” on board is Gov. Fook, -returning from the Dutch West Indies, where -he has been governing the islands and Dutch -Guiana. The governor is a well-informed -gentleman, and a splendid player of pinochle. -The Dutch have the thrifty habit of making -their colonies pay. They are not a “world -power” and do not have to be experimenting -with efforts to lift the white man’s burden. -Their idea is that the West-Indian and the -East-Indian who live under the Dutch flag -shall work. The American idea is to educate -and convert the heathen and pension them -from labor. Our theory sounds all right, but -it results in unhappy Filipinos and increased -expense for Americans. The Dutch colonials -pay their way whether they get an education -or not.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span></p> -<p>One unfamiliar with modern steamship -travel would think that the captain and his -first and second officers were the important -officials on board. They are not. The officers -rank about as follows: 1st, the cook; 2nd, -the engineer; 3rd, the barber, and after that -the rest. The cook on an ocean steamer gets -more pay than the captain, and is now ranked -as an officer. The managing director of a big -German company was accustomed on visiting -any ship of their line, to first shake hands with -the cook and then with the captain. When -one of the officers suggested that he was not -following etiquette he answered that there -was no trouble getting captains and lieutenants -but it was a darned hard job to find a -cook. The cook has to buy, plan meals, -supervise the kitchen and run it economically -for the company and satisfactorily for the -passengers, for over 2,000 people.</p> - -<p>The barber is the man on the ship who -knows everything for sure. Ask the captain -when we will get to Rotterdam and he will -qualify and trim his answer by referring to -possible winds and tides, and he won’t say -exactly. Ask the barber and he will tell you -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span>we will get there at 10 o’clock on Friday -night. He knows everything going on in the -boat, from the kind of freight carried in the -hold to the meaning of the colors painted on -the smokestack. During this voyage I have -had more numerous and interesting facts than -anybody, because I have not fooled with talking -to the captain or the purser or the steward, -but gotten my information straight from the -fountain of knowledge, the barber shop. However, -this is not peculiar to ships. The same -principle applies at Hutchinson and every -other town.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Ocean_Currents">Ocean Currents</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Steamship Potsdam</span>, July 21.</p> - -<p>This is the eleventh day of the voyage from -New York, and if the Potsdam does not have -a puncture or bust a singletree she will arrive -at Rotterdam late tonight. The Potsdam -is a most comfortable boat, but it is -in no hurry. It keeps below the Hutchinson -speed limit of fifteen miles an hour. -But a steamship never stops for water or oil, -or to sidetrack or to wait for connections. -This steady pounding of fourteen miles an -hour makes an easy speed for the passenger, -and the verdict of this ship’s company is that -the Potsdam is a bully ship and the captain -and the cook are all right.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Nearly all the way across the Atlantic we -have been in the Gulf stream. I have read -of this phenomenal current which originates -in the Gulf of Mexico and comes up the eastern -coast of the United States so warm that -it affects the climate wherever it touches. -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span>Then nearly opposite New England it turns -and crosses the Atlantic, a river of warm -water many miles wide, flowing through the -ocean, which is comparatively cold. This -stream is a help to the boats going in its direction, -although it has the bad feature of frequent -fogs caused by the condensation which -comes when the warm and cold air currents -meet. The Gulf stream is believed to be responsible -for the green of Ireland and for -the winter resorts of southern England. It -goes all the way across the Atlantic and into -the English Channel, with a branch off to -Ireland. What causes the Gulf stream? I -forget the scientific terms, but this is the way -it is, according to my friend Mr. Vischer, -formerly of the German navy. The water -in the Gulf of Mexico is naturally warm. -The motion of the earth, from west to east, -and other currents coming into the gulf, -crowd the warm water out and send the big -wide stream into the Atlantic with a whirl -which starts it in a northerly and easterly -direction. The same Providence that makes -the grass grow makes the course of the current, -and it flows for thousands of miles, -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span>gradually dissipating at the edges, but still -a warm-water river until it breaks on the -coast of the British Isles and into the North -Sea. Perhaps Mr. Vischer would not recognize -this explanation, but I have translated -it into a vernacular which I can understand.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Gulf stream reminds me of the Mediterranean. -Not having much else to worry -about, I have gone to worrying over the Mediterranean -Sea. The ocean always flows into -the sea. The current through the strait of -Gibraltar is always inward. Many great -rivers contribute to the blue waters of the -great sea. There is no known outlet. Why -does not the Mediterranean run over and fill -the Sahara desert, which is considerably below -the sea-level? Scientists have tried to -figure this out, and the only tangible theory -is that the bottom of the Mediterranean leaks -badly in some places, and that the water finds -its way by subterranean channels back to -the ocean. What would happen if an eruption -of Vesuvius should stop up the drain-pipe? -Now worry.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span></p> - -<p>Tonight we saw another phenomenon, the -aurora borealis. It looked to me like a beautiful -sunset in the north. We are sailing in -the North Sea along the coast of Belgium, -and the water reaches northward to the pole. -The aurora borealis is another phenomenon -not easily explained, but Mr. Vischer says it -is probably the reflection of the sun from the -ice mirror of the Arctic. And it does make you -feel peculiar to see what is apparently the -light of the sunset flare up toward the “Dipper” -and the North Star.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Some of our passengers disembarked today -at Boulogne. This was the first time the -Potsdam had paused since she left New York -a week ago last Tuesday. This was the stop -for the passengers who go direct to Paris. -The Dutch who are homeward bound and -those of us who think it best to fool around -a little before encountering the dangers of -Paris, continue to Rotterdam. We should be -spending the evening with maps and guide -books preparing ourselves for the art galleries, -cathedrals, canals and windmills. As a matter -of fact, we are wondering what is going<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span> -on at home. There is a balance-wheel in -the human heart that makes the ordinary -citizen who is far afield or afloat turn to the -thoughts of the home which he left, seeking a -change.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>A smoking-room story: An American in -a European art gallery was heading an aggregation -of family and friends for a study of -art. His assurance was more pronounced -than his knowledge. “See this beautiful -Titian,” he said. <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span>“What glorious color, and -mark the beauty of the small lines. Isn’t -it a jim dandy? And next to it is a Rubens -by the same artist!”</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Dutch_Folks">The Dutch Folks</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Rotterdam, Holland</span>, July 23.</p> - -<p>It seemed to me unnecessary, but I had to -explain to some friends why I was going -especially to Holland. It is the biggest little -country in the world. In art it rivals Italy, -in business it competes with England, historically -it has had more thrills to the mile -than France, and in appearance it is the -oddest, queerest, and most different from our -own country, of all the nations of central -Europe. Holland gives you more for your -money and your time than any other, and -that’s why I am back here to renew the hurried -acquaintance with the Dutch made a -few years ago.</p> - -<p>Landing in Rotterdam was an experiment. -The guide books and the tourist authorities -pass Rotterdam over with brief mention. -Baedeker, the tripper’s friend, suggests that -you can see Rotterdam in a half-day. That -is because Rotterdam is short on picture galleries -and cathedrals. It is a great, busy<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span> -city of a half-million people, and one of the -most active commercially in the world. It -is the port where the boats from the Rhine -meet the ships of the sea. It is the greatest -freight shipping and receiving port of northern -Europe. It is the coming city of the -north, because of its natural advantages in -cheap freight rates. After looking it over -hurriedly it seems to me to be one of the most -interesting of cities. I am not going to run -away from cathedrals and galleries. I am -not intending to dodge when I see a beautiful -landscape coming. But I have done my -duty in the past and have seen the great -cathedrals and the exhibitions of art. No -one can come to Europe and not see these -things once, for if he did he would not be -able to lift up his head in the presence of -other travelers. But he does not have to do -them a second time. If I want to see pictures -of Dutch ladies labeled “Madonna,” -I will see them. If I don’t want to, I do not -have to. In other words, if I go to the “tourist -delights” it will be my own fault.</p> - -<p>I would rather see the people themselves -than the pictures of them. I want to observe<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span> -how they work, what they work for, what -their prospects are, and wherein they differ -from the great Americans.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Man made most of Holland. Nearly all -of the country is below the level of the sea, -much of it many feet below. All that keeps -the tide of the North Sea from flooding the -country with from ten to a hundred feet of -water every day are the dikes which man has -built. Behind these huge embankments lies -a country as flat as the flattest prairie in Kansas. -A few sandhills and an occasional little -rise of ground might stick out of the water -if the dikes broke, but I doubt it. This -“made” land has been fertilized and built -up by the silt of the rivers, added to by the -labor and science of man, until it is a vast -market garden. The water of the rivers is -diverted in every direction into canals. There -is no current to the rivers; the surface is too -flat, and the fresh water is backed up twice -a day by the ocean tides at the mouths. -There are practically no locks and the movement -of the water is hardly perceptible, except -near the coast, where it responds to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span> -advance and retreat of the sea. These canals -are an absolute necessity for drainage, otherwise -the country would be a swamp. Then -they are used as roads, and practically all the -freight is carried to market cheaply in canal-boats. -The canals also serve as fences. The -drainage water is pumped by windmills, which -are then used to furnish power for every -imaginable manufacturing purpose, from sawing -lumber to grinding wheat. The cheap -wind-power enabled the people to clear the -land of water. So you see why there are -dikes, canals and windmills in Holland: because -they were the only available instruments -in the hand of man to beat back the -sea and build a productive soil. They were -not inserted in the Holland landscape for -beauty or for art’s sake, but because they -were necessities; and yet great artists come -to Holland to paint pictures of these practical -things, and when they want to add more -beauty they insert Dutch cattle and wooden -shoes. All of which shows that the plain -everyday things around us are really picturesque; -and they are, whether you look at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span> -the sandhills along the Arkansas or the dunes -along the North Sea.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>In this little country, containing 12,500 -square miles of land and water, smaller than -the seventh congressional district of Kansas, -live almost 6,000,000 of the busiest people -on earth. Their character may be drawn -from their history. They first beat the ocean -out of the arena and then made the soil. -They met and overcame more obstacles than -any other people in getting their land. And -then for several centuries they had to fight -all the rest of Europe to keep from being absorbed -by one or the other of the great powers. -They drove out the Spaniards at a time when -Spain was considered invincible. They licked -England on the sea, and the Dutch Admiral -Tromp sailed up and down the Channel with -a broom at the mast of his ship. They drove -Napoleon’s soldiers and his king out of the -country. They never willingly knuckled down -to anybody, and they never stayed down long -when they were hit.</p> - -<p>The Dutch have for centuries been considered -the best traders in Europe. They<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span> -have the ports for commerce and they have -the money. They own 706,000 square miles -of colonies, with a population six times as -large as their own. From the beginning they -have been ruled by merchants and business -men, rather than by kings and princes, by -men who knew how to buy and sell and fight. -They have been saving and thrifty, and can -dig up more cash than any other bunch of inhabitants -on the globe. They have sunk -some money in American railroads, but they -have made it back, and they always take interest. -Market-gardening and manufacturing -and trade have been their resources, and -nothing can beat that three of a kind for -piling up profits and providing a way to keep -the money working.</p> - -<p>Of course these characteristics and this environment -have made the Dutch peculiar in -some ways, and they are generally counted -a little close or “near.” They habitually use -their small coin, the value of two-fifths of an -American cent, and they want and give all -that is coming. They have good horses, fat -stomachs, and lots of children. They are -pleasant but not effusive, and they are as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span> -proud of their country as are the inhabitants -of any place on earth. They believe in everybody -working, including the women and the -dogs. Their struggle with the sea never ends, -and they follow the same persistent course in -every line of development. They are so clean -it is a wonder they are comfortable, and they -believe in eating and drinking and having a -good time, just so it doesn’t cost too much. -They are a great people, and here’s looking -at them.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="In_Old_Dordrecht">In Old Dordrecht</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Dordrecht</span>, July 23.</p> - -<p>This is the oldest town in Holland, and once -upon a time was the great commercial city. -It is about fifteen miles from Rotterdam, and -remember that fifteen miles is a long distance -in this country. It is built upon an island; -two rivers and any number of canals run -around it and through it whenever the tide -ebbs or flows. Good-sized ocean steamers -come to its wharves, and until other cities -developed deeper harbors Dordrecht was the -Hutchinson of southwest Holland. And now -let me explain that the people of this country -do not call it Holland, but The Netherland. -Originally Holland was the western part of -the present Netherland. Dordrecht is in old -South Holland. About nine hundred years -ago the Count of Holland, who then ruled in -this precinct, decided to levy a tax or a tariff -on all goods shipped on this route, the main -traveled road from England to the Orient. -The other counts and kings and bishops<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span> -kicked, but after a fight the right of the Count -of Holland was vindicated, and he built the -city of Dordrecht as a sort of customs house. -This was in 1008. For several hundred years -Dordrecht prospered and was known as a -great commercial city. Then Antwerp, Rotterdam -and Amsterdam came forward with -better harbors, and Dordrecht took a back -seat. But it has always been one of the important -places in The Netherland. When -William of Orange took hold of the revolution -against Spain, the first conference of the representatives -of the Dutch states was held in -Dordrecht, and it was always loyal to the -cause of Dutch freedom. The best hotel and -restaurant in the city today is The Orange, -named for the royal house which has so long -been at the head of the Dutch government. -My idea of a really important statesman is -one for whom hotels and cigars are named -centuries after he has passed away.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>This is Sunday, and I am forced to believe -that the Dutch are not good churchgoers. We -went to the evening service in the great cathedral. -In fact, we went to the cathedral and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span> -suddenly the service began without our having -time to retire gracefully. So we decided -to stay, and in a prominent place was a list -of the prices of seats. Some cost ten cents, -some five cents, and some were marked free. -I handed ten cents to the lady in charge, and -we took two seats in the rear, which I afterward -discovered were free. The women seem -to run the church much as they do at home. -The Dutch hymns were not so bad, but the -Dutch sermon was not interesting to me. -During the closing song, we thought we would -slip out quietly, but when we reached the door -we found it locked. The custom is to lock -the door and allow no one to enter or leave -during the service, but as a special favor to -Americans, who evidently did not know what -they were doing, the guardian of the door unlocked -it, and out we went amid general -interest of the congregation.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We came from Rotterdam on a little steam-boat, -which scooted along the rivers and canals -like a street car. Very often the canal was -built higher than the adjoining land, and it -gave the peculiar feeling of boating in the air.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span> -There is no waste ground. Every foot of it -not occupied by a house or a chicken-yard, is -pasture or under cultivation. Every farmer -has a herd of those black-and-white cattle. -Some of the herds are as many as six or seven -cows. But every cow acted as if she were -doing her full duty toward making Holland -the wealthiest of nations.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The streets of Dordrecht are generally narrow, -like those of all old towns. Many of the -buildings are very old, and a favorite style of -architecture is to have the front project several -feet forward over the street. The tops of -opposite buildings often almost meet. I don’t -see why they do not meet and come down -kerwhack, but they don’t. Imagine these -quaint streets with old Dutch houses, white -and blue, with red tiled roofs, and green and -yellow thrown in to give them color, with -angles and dormers and curious corners, the -tops projecting toward one another, and you -can see how interesting a Dutch street can -be if it tries, as it does in Dordrecht. Of course -in the outer and newer parts of the town are -larger streets and more modern houses, with -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span>beautiful gardens and flower beds that would -baffle a painter for color, but old Dordrecht -is the most interesting. Add to the street -picture a canal down the middle, and you get -a frequent variation. Put odd Dutch boats in -the water, fill them with freight and children, -and you have another. If this were not -picturesque it would be grotesque to American -eyes, but it is the actual development of Dutch -civilization, and it is the thing you pay money -for when some artist catches the inspiration -which he can get here if anywhere.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_fp040.jpg" alt="" width="405" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">THE SCRUBBING-BRUSH THE NATIONAL EMBLEM OF HOLLAND</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Of course the streets are paved, and they -are as clean as the floor of an ordinary American -dwelling. Everyone knows that the -Dutch are clean and that their national emblem -ought to be a scrubbing-brush. They -are so clean that it almost hurts. Very often -there are no sidewalks, and when there are -they are not level, and are generally fenced in. -They belong to the abutting property, and -are not to be walked on by the public. The -people walk in the street, and that custom is -a little hard to get used to. Before the front -window of nearly every house is a mirror, so<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span> -fastened that those within the house can see -up and down the street, observe who is coming -and who is going, and where. This custom, -if introduced at home, would save a good -deal of neck-stretching. But at first one is -overly conscious of the many eyes which are -observing his walk and the many minds which -are undoubtedly trying to guess just where -and why and who. But this mirror custom -does not bother the Dutch young folks, not -much. It is also the custom for the young -man and his sweetheart to parade along the -street hand in hand, arm in arm, or catch-as-catch-can, -if they want to,—and they want to -a great deal. At first this looked like a rude -demonstration of affection, but after you have -observed it some, say for an hour or so, it -doesn’t seem half bad,—if you were only -Dutch.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Dordrecht has about 40,000 people, and all -of them are on the street or at the window on -Sunday. The saloons are open, but nothing -is sold stronger than gin. The Dutch in a -quiet, gentlemanly and ladylike way, are evidently -trying to consume all the beer that can<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span> -be made in Holland or imported. Of course -they can’t succeed, but, as the story goes, they -can probably make the breweries work nights. -There is really a need for a temperance organization -in this country, and I should say it -would have work enough to last it several -thousand years.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Dutchesses">The Dutchesses</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Rotterdam</span>, July 24.</p> - -<p>The secret of the success of the Dutch is no -secret at all. Everybody works, not excepting -father, grandfather and grandmother. I -suppose this habit began with the unceasing -fight against the sea, the building of the dikes, -the pumping out of the water, and the construction -of a soil. It has continued until -there is no other people more persistently industrious. -They rise early and get busy. -The women cook and scrub and work on the -canal-boats, in the shops and in the fields. -The children go to school eleven months in -the year. The men are stout, quick, and work -from early to late. Even the dogs work in -Holland. At first it seemed rather hard to -see the dogs hitched to the little carts and -pulling heavy loads, sometimes a man riding -on the cart. This is a serious country for -the canine, and must be the place where the -phrase “worked like a dog” got its start. In -most places the dog is the companion and pet<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span> -of man, but in Holland he has to do his part -in making a living, and he soon learns to draw -the load, pulling hard and conscientiously on -the traces. He has little time to fight and -frolic, but he has the great pleasure of the rest -that comes from hard labor. However, if I -were a dog and were picking out a country for -a location, I would stay far away from Holland. -It is no uncommon sight to see a -woman with a strap over her shoulders dragging -a canal-boat or pulling a little wagon. -In fact, the women of The Netherland have -rights which they are not even asking in the -United States, and no one disputes their -prerogative of hard work. There are no “Suffragettes” -in Holland, but a woman can do -nearly anything she wants to unless it is -vote, which she apparently does not care for. -There are many rich Hollanders; in fact, there -are few that are poor. But they do not constitute -a leisure class. The wealthy Dutch -gent merely works the harder and the wealthy -Dutch “vrouw” scrubs and manages the -household or runs the store just as she did in -the earlier years of struggle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span></p> - -<p>Speaking of the Dutch women, I think they -are good-looking. They are almost invariably -strong and well in appearance, with good -complexions, clever eyes and capable expression. -They may weigh a little strong for some, -but that is a matter of taste. The old Dutch -peasant costumes are still worn in places, but -as a rule their clothes come from the same -models as those for the American women. -The Dutchess has been reared to work, to -manage, and to advise with her man. She is -intelligent in appearance and quick in action. -She is educated and companionable. What -if her waist line disappears? What if she has -no ankles, only feet and legs? Perhaps it -will be thought that I am going too far in my -investigation, but the Dutch ladies ride bicycles -so generally that even a man from -America can see a few things, no matter how -hard he tries to look the other way and comes -near getting run over.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Queen of Holland is a woman. This is -not a startling statement, for so far as I know -a man has never been a queen in any country. -But there is no king. Queen Wilhelmina’s<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span> -husband, Prince Henry, is not a king. If -there is any ruling to do in Holland it is done -by Wilhelmina. Henry can’t even appoint a -notary public. No one pays any attention to -him, and I understand Wilhelmina has given -it out that what Henry says does not go with -her. I am trying to investigate the status of -affairs in the royal family, because I had -entertained the idea that Wilhelmina was an -unfortunate young queen with a bad husband. -That may have been so a few years ago, but -now I understand she bats poor Henry around -scandalously, pays no heed to his wishes, and -pointedly calls his attention about three times -a day to the fact that he is nothing but a one-horse -prince while she is the boss of the family -and the kingdom. This pleases the Dutch -immensely, for Henry is a German and the -Dutch don’t like the Germans. They think -the Germans are conceited and arrogant, and -that Emperor William is planning to eventually -annex The Netherland to Germany. So -every time Wilhelmina turns down the German -prince all the Dutch people think it is -fine, and her popularity is immense. Henry -gets a good salary, but his job would be a hard<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span> -one for a self-respecting American. I understand -he is much dissatisfied, but he was not -raised to a trade, and if Wilhelmina should -stop his pay he would go hungry and thirsty, -two conditions which would make life intolerable -for a German prince.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Wilhelmina has a daughter, two years old, -named Juliana. I suppose Henry is related to -Juliana, but he gets no credit for it. Everywhere -you go you see pictures of Wilhelmina -and Juliana, but not of Henry. A princess -is really what the Dutch want, for their monarch -has actually no power, and the government -is entirely managed by the representatives -of the people. But a prince would likely -be wild, and might want to mix into public -affairs. A princess makes a better figurehead -of the state. She will be satisfied with a new -dress and a hand-decorated crown, and not be -wanting an army and battleships as a prince -might do. Wilhelmina represents to the Dutch -people the ruling family of Orange, which -brought them through many crises, and -Juliana is another Orange. Henry is only a -lemon which the Germans handed to them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span></p> - -<p>The royal family are off on a visit to Brussels, -and I have not met any of them. This information -I have gleaned from the hotel -porters, the boat captains, the chambermaids, -and the clerks who speak English. I imagine -I have come nearer getting the facts than if I -had sent in my card at the royal palace.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Pilgrims_Start">The Pilgrims’ Start</h2> -</div> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Delftshaven</span>, July 25.</p> - - -<p>This is the town from which the Pilgrims -sailed on the trip which was to make Plymouth -Rock famous. Nearly a hundred of -the congregation of Rev. John Robinson at -Leyden came to this little suburb of Rotterdam, -and embarked on the Speedwell. The -night before the start was spent by the congregation -in exhortation and prayer in a little -church which still stands, and has the fact -recorded on a big tablet. The Pilgrims went -to Southampton, discovered the Speedwell -was not seaworthy, and transferred to the -Mayflower.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Those English Puritans who had emigrated -from their own country to Holland were considered -“religious cranks” even in those days -when fighting and killing for religion was regarded -the proper occupation of a Christian. -The Puritans in England were strong in numbers, -and while Queen Elizabeth had frowned<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span> -upon them as dissenters from the church of -which she was the head, she was politician -enough to restrain the persecution of them, for -they were useful citizens and loved to die fighting -Spaniards. But a few extremists who persisted -in preaching in public places were -sentenced to jail, and some of these skipped -to Holland. Queen Elizabeth died and James -became the King of England, and he was a pinhead. -He hated non-conformists as much as -Catholics. So, more of the Puritans who -could not pretend to conform went to Holland, -and in Leyden and Amsterdam they founded -little settlements. Holland was a land of -liberty, and the Puritans wanted the right to -disagree, non-conform, argue and debate over -disputed questions. There were several congregations -of them, and they did not agree -on important doctrines, such as whether John -the Baptist’s hair was parted on the side or -in the middle. Public debates were held and -great enjoyment therefrom resulted, although -there is no record of anyone having his opinion -changed by the arguments, and the side whose -story you are reading always overcame the -other.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p> - -<p>The Puritans did not mix much with the -Dutch, and naturally grew lonesome in their -exile. They conceived the plan of emigrating -to the New World and there establishing -the right to worship God in accord with their -own conscience. Influential Puritans in England -who had not been so cranky as to leave -home, helped with the king, and finally they -secured permission from James to settle in -America and to own the land they should -develop. James remarked at the time he -would prefer that they go to Hell, where they -belonged, but he was needing a loan from the -English Puritans, so he gave the permit. The -Puritans in old England also provided a good -part of the money with which to fit out the -expedition. At the time there was a general -movement among the Puritans in England -for a big migration to the New World. This -was to be a sort of experiment station. At the -time, James was king, and Charles, a dissolute -prince, was to follow. The Puritans were sick -at heart and ready to leave their native land. -But soon after the Pilgrims had made their -settlement in New England, the Puritans at -home developed leaders who put them into<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span> -the fight for Old England. Then along came -Cromwell, and for many years English Puritans -were running the government, and the -necessity for a safe place across the sea and an -asylum for religious liberty disappeared so far -as they were concerned, though their interest -in the Colonists was maintained. The sons -of these Puritans who crossed the ocean rather -than go to the established church, refused to -pay a tax on tea, about 150 years later, and -formed a new country with a new flag. That -was part of the result of the sailing of the little -company from Rev. Mr. Robinson’s flock after -a night spent in prayer in this town of Delftshaven, -just about this time of the year in 1620.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The stay of the Puritans in Holland had no -effect on the Dutch. They let the Puritans -shoot their mouths any way they pleased, and -the Puritan only prospers and proselytes on -opposition. But the Dutch of the present -day are getting good returns for that investment -of long ago. There are a dozen places -in Holland, here and at Amsterdam and Leyden, -visited by Americans every year because -they are historic spots in connection with the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span> -Pilgrims. At each and every place the contribution-box -is in sight, and the Dutch church -or town which owns the property gets a handsome -revenue. New England churches give -liberally to the fixing up of the Dutch churches -which can show a record of having been just -once the place where some Puritan preached.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Wooden shoes have not gone out of style in -Holland. They are still worn generally in the -country, and by the poorer children and men -in the cities. They are cheap, which is a big -recommendation to the Dutch. They are -warm, said to be much warmer than leather. -It does not hurt them to be wet, a very desirable -feature in this water-soaked country. -These are all good reasons, and as soon as you -get used to the clatter and the apparent awkwardness -you appreciate the fact that the -“klompen,” as the Dutch call them, are a -reasonable style for Holland. They are not -worn in the house but dropped in the entryway, -and house shoes or stocking feet go within. -The Dutch farmer is proud of his clogs, -paints them, carves them, and scrubs them. -A man with idle time, like a fisherman, will -often spend months decorating a pair of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span> -wooden shoes. They are considered a proper -present from a young husband to his bride, -and she will use them when scrubbing, which -is a good part of the time. The shoes are -generally made of poplar, and to the size of -the foot. When the foot grows you can hollow -out a little more shoe. Wooden shoes are as -common here as overalls in America, and they -will not grow less popular unless Holland goes -dry—of which I see no indication.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The farm-houses are usually built in connection -with the barns, the family living in -front and the stock and feed occupying the -rear. This is rather customary in cold climates, -and you must remember that Holland -is farther north than Quebec. The winters -get very cold and the canals and rivers freeze -over. Skating is the great national sport. -There does not seem to be much summer sport -except scrubbing. All through the summer -the people dig and weed and fertilize and prepare -for market. The dikes and canals must -be maintained and the best made of a short -season. In the winter they can live with the -pretty black-and-white cattle, the sheep and -the horses, and have a good time.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Amsterdam_and_Others">Amsterdam, and Others</h2> -</div> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Amsterdam</span>, July 27</p> - - -<p>This is the largest and most important city -of Holland. It has about as much commerce -as Rotterdam, and is longer on history, manufactures, -art, and society. It was the first -large city built up on a canal system, and its -600,000 population is a proof that something -can be built out of nothing. Along about -1300 and 1400 it was a small town in a swamp. -When the war for independence from Spain -began, in 1656, Amsterdam profited by its -location on the Zuyder Zee. The Spaniards -ruined most of the rival towns and put an end -to the commerce of Antwerp for a while, and -Amsterdam received the mechanics and merchants -fleeing from the soldiers of Alva. The -name means a “dam,” or dike, on the Amstel -river. The swamp was reclaimed from the -water by dikes and drainage canals, but even -now every house in the city must have its -foundation on piles. The word dam, or its -inclusion in a name, means just about what<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span> -it does in English, provided you refer to the -proper dam, not the improper damn. As -nearly all of the Dutch towns are built on dam sites -a great many of them are some-kind-of-a-dam. -Amsterdam is built below the level of the sea, -which is just beside it, and the water in the -canals is pumped out by big engines and forced -over the dike into the sea. If this were not -done the water would come over the town site -and Amsterdam would go back to swamp and -not be worth a dam site.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Amsterdam is the chief money market of -Holland, and one of the financial capitals of -the world. It is the place an American promoter -makes for when he is out after the stuff -with which to make the female horse travel. -A large part of its business men are Jews, and -their ability and wealth have maintained the -credit of Dutch interests in all parts of the -globe. At a time when the Jews were being -persecuted nearly everywhere they were given -liberty in Holland, and much of the country’s -progress is due to that fact and to the religious -toleration of all kinds of sects.</p> - -<p>The canals run along nearly all the streets,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span> -and are filled with freight-boats from the country -and from other cities. Thousands of these -canal boats lie in the canals of Amsterdam and -are the homes of the boatmen, who are the -commerce carriers of Holland. Under our -window is tied up a canal-boat which could -carry as much freight as a dozen American -box cars. The power is a sail or a pole or a -man or a woman, whichever is most convenient. -The boatman and his wife and ten or -fifteen children, with a dog and a cat, live -comfortably in one end, and we can watch -them at their work and play. A dozen more -such boats are lying in this block, some with -steam engines and some with gasoline engines. -The Standard Oil Company does a great business -in Holland, and as usual is a great help to -the people. It is introducing cheap power for -canal-boats by means of proper engines, and -in a short time will probably free the boatman -and his wife from the pull-and-push system -received from the good old days.</p> - -<p>The canals are lined with big buildings, -business and residence, mostly from four to -six stories high, with the narrow, peaked and -picturesque architecture made familiar to us<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span> -by the pictures. All kinds of color are used -and ornamented fronts are common. Imagine -a street such as I describe and you have this -one that is under our hotel window and which -is the universal street scene of Amsterdam. -Some one called this the Venice of the North, -but to my mind it is prettier than Venice, -although it lacks some of the oriental architecture -and smell.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Last night we went to the Rembrandt -theatre to see “The Mikado,” in Dutch. Of -course we could follow the music of the old-time -friend, and the language made the play -funnier than ever. The Dutch are not near so -strong on music as are their German or French -neighbors. They utilize compositions of other -nations, and American airs are very common. -The window of a large fine music store is -playing up “Has Anybody Here Seen Kelly?” -A few Americans were at the big garden -Krasnapolsky, listening to a really fine orchestra -with an Austrian leader. We sent up a request -for the American national air and it -came promptly: “Whistling Rufus.” The -Europeans think the cake-walk is something<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span> -like a national dance in our country, and whenever -they try to please us they turn loose -one of our rag-time melodies. They do not -mind chucking the “Georgia Campmeeting” -or “Rings on My Fingers and Bells on My -Toes,” into a program of Wagner and Tschudi -and other composers whom we are taught at -home to consider sacred.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The most entertaining feature of the Amsterdam -landscape that I have seen is a Dutch -lady in a hobble skirt. The fashion is here -all right, and it would make an American -hobble appear tame and common. In the -first place, the Dutch lady is not of the proper -architecture, and in the second place, she still -wears a lot more underskirts, or whatever -they are, than are considered necessary in -Paris or Hutchinson. But she does not expand -the hobble. The shopping street of -Amsterdam is filled with fashionably dressed -Dutch ladies who look like tops, and who are -worth coming a long ways to see. Far be it -from me to criticize the freaks of female -fashion. I never know what they are until -after they are past due. But if the Dutch<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span> -hobble ever reaches the American side of the -Atlantic it will be time for the mere men to -organize.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The greatest art gallery in Europe is here, -The Rijks Museum. I went to see it—once. -I do not get the proper thrills from seeing a -thousand pictures in thirty minutes. They -make me tired. But Rembrandt’s Night -Watch, or nearly anything a good Dutch -artist has painted, is a real pleasure. The -Dutch are recognizing their own modern art, -and in that way they are going to distance the -Italians. The Dutch artists are good at portraying -people and common things, such as -cats and dogs and ships. They are not strong -in allegory or imaginative work, and you do -not have to be educated up to enjoy them. -And they run a little fun into their work occasionally, -which would shock a Dago artist -out of his temperament.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Wages are higher in Holland than elsewhere -in Europe. A street car conductor gets a -dollar a day. Ordinary labor is paid sixty to -eighty cents a day. Farm laborer about $15<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span> -per month, but boards himself. A good all-around -hired girl is a dollar a week. Mechanics -receive from one dollar to two dollars -a day. The necessaries of life are not so high -as with us. Vegetables are cheaper. Tobacco -is much less. Meats are about as high. -Clothing is cheaper, but our people wouldn’t -wear it. Beer is two cents a glass and lemonade -is five cents. The ordinary workingman -lives on soup, vegetables, and very little -meat; gets a new suit of clothes about once -in five years, and takes his family to a garden -for amusement, where they get all they want -for ten cents. The Dutch citizen on foot is -plain, honest, a little rude, but of good heart -and very accommodating. I have not met the -citizens in carriages and on horseback, who -make up a very small part of the procession -in Holland.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Cheeses_and_Bulbses">Cheeses and Bulbses</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Alkmaar</span>, July 28.</p> - -<p>Of course Holland is the greatest cheese -country on earth, and Alkmaar is the biggest -cheese market in Holland. Every Friday the -cheesemakers of the district bring their product -to the public market, and buyers, local -and foreign, bargain for and purchase the -cheeses. That is why we came to Alkmaar -on Friday. The cheese market is certainly -an interesting and novel sight. All over the -big public square are piled little mounds of -cheeses, shaped like large grape-fruit and colored -in various shades of red and yellow. -Each wholesaler has his carriers in uniform -of white, and a straw hat and ribbons colored -as a livery. When a sale is made, two -carriers take a barrow which they carry suspended -from their shoulders and with a sort -of two-step and many cries to get out of the -way they bring their load to the public weigh-house, -where it is officially weighed. Then -off the cheeses go to the store-rooms or to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span> -the canal-boats which line one side of the -square, waiting to take their freight to the -cities or to the sea. The farmers look over -each other’s cheeses as they do hogs at the -Kansas State Fair, with comments of praise -or criticism. There is much chaffing and chaffering -between them and the buyers. In -about two hours the cheeses are gone, the -square is empty and the beer-houses are full. -The women-folks do not take an active part -in the market, but they are present and looking -things over, and I suspect they had been -permitted to milk the cows and make the -cheese.</p> - -<p>About $3,000,000 worth of cheese is sold -annually in the Alkmaar market. The country -round about, North Holland, is all small -farms, with gardens and pastures and little -herds of the black-and-white cattle. The -cheese wholesales at about 60 cents a cheese, -and in America we pay about twice that much -for the same, or for the Edam, which is like -it. The farmers look prosperous, drive good -horses and very substantial gaily painted -wagons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span></p> - -<p>Alkmaar has 18,000 population, and is therefore -about the size of Hutchinson. But it is -a good deal older. Back in 1573 it successfully -defended itself against the Spaniards. -The name means “all sea,” because the country -was originally covered with water. The -land is kept above the water now by pumping -and pouring into canals which are higher -than the farms through which they flow. -This is done very systematically and by windmills. -A district thus maintained is called a -“polder,” something like our irrigation district, -and on one of them near Alkmaar, about -the size of a Kansas township, six miles -square, there are 51 windmills working all -the time, pumping the water. These are not -little windmills like those in a Kansas pasture, -but great fellows with big arms fifty feet long, -and they stand out over the polder like so -many giants. The picture of these mills in a -most fertile garden-spot, with canal streaks -here and there and boats on the canals looming -up above the land, is certainly a striking one. -And it shows clearly what energy can do -when properly applied.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span></p> - -<p>The soil is as sandy as in South Hutchinson. -But dirt and fertilizer are brought from -the back country and the soil is kept constantly -renewed. It seems to me that with -comparatively little work the sandy soil of -the Arkansas valley can be made into a market -garden, producing many times its present -value, whenever our people take it into -their heads to manufacture their own soil -and apply water when needed and not just -when it rains. That time will come, but -probably not until a dense population forces -a great increase in production.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I have another idea. Along the coast of -Holland are the “sand dunes,” which are -exactly like our sand hills. What we should -do is to change the name from sand hills -to “dunes,” brag about them and charge -people for visiting them. The city of Amsterdam -gets its supply of drinking-water from -the dunes. This was important news to me, -for it confirmed my theory as to the similarity -of the dunes and the sand hills, and -also suggested that somebody in Amsterdam<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span> -used water for drinking purposes, a fact I -had not noticed while there.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We spent part of a day in Haarlem, where -the tulips come from. The soil conditions -are like those at Alkmaar, but the country -is a mass of nurseries, flower gardens, and -beautiful growing plants. We are out of -season for tulips, but this is the time when -the bulbs are being collected and dried to be -shipped in all directions. Not only tulips -but crocuses, hyacinths, lilies, anemones, etc., -are raised for the market,—cut flowers to the -cities, bulbs to all parts of the world. Just -now the gardens are filled with phlox, dahlias, -larkspurs, nasturtiums,—by the acre. The -flowers are about the same as at home. Out -of this thin, scraggly, sandy soil the gardeners -of North Holland are taking money for -flowers and bulbs faster than miners in gold-fields. -With flowers and cheeses these Dutch -catch about all kinds of people.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Haarlem is the capital of the province of -North Holland, and is full of quaint houses<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span> -of ancient architecture. It was one of the -hot towns for independence when the war -with Spain began. The Spaniards besieged -it, and after a seven months gallant defense, -in which even the women fought as -soldiers, the town surrendered under promise -of clemency. The Spaniards broke their -promise and put to death the entire garrison -and nearly all the townspeople. This outrage -so incensed the Dutch in other places -that the war was fought more bitterly than -before, and the crime—for such it was—really -aided in the final expulsion of the Spaniards.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Along in the seventeenth century was the -big boom in Haarlem. The tulip mania developed -and bulbs sold for thousands of dollars. -Capitalists engaged in the speculation -and the trade went into big figures. Millions -of dollars were spent for the bulbs, and so -long as the demand and the market continued -every tulip-raiser was rich. Finally the reaction -came, as it always does to a boom, and -everybody went broke. A bulb which sold -for $5,000 one year was not worth 50 cents -the next. The government added to the con<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span>fusion -by decreeing that all contracts for future -deliveries were illegal. The usual phenomenon -of a panic followed, everybody losing -and nobody gaining. A hundred years -later there was about the same kind of a -boom in hyacinths, and the same result. It -will be observed that the Dutch are not so -much unlike Americans when it comes to -booms, only it takes longer for them to forget -and calls for more experience.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Frans Hals, a great Dutch painter, almost -next to Rembrandt, was born in Haarlem, -and a number of his pictures are in the city -building. It was customary in those days -for the mayor and city council to have a group -picture painted and hung in the town hall. -This was the way most of the Dutch artists -got their start, for the officials were always -wealthy citizens who were willing to pay more -for their own pictures than for studies of nature -or allegory. I wonder if the officials paid -their own money or did they voucher it -through the city treasury and charge it to -sprinkling or street work?</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> - -<p>Both Alkmaar and Haarlem are interesting -because they are intensely Dutch. Their -principal occupations, cheesemaking and flower-raising, -have been their principal occupations -for centuries. They had nothing to -start with and had to fight for that. Now -they are loaning money to the world. If the -people of Kansas worked as hard as do the -Dutch and were as economical and saving, -in one generation they would have all the -money in the world. But they wouldn’t have -much fun.</p> - -<p>The American way of economizing may be -illustrated by a story. Once upon a time in -a certain town—which I want to say was not -in Kansas, for I have no desire to be summoned -before the attorney-general to tell all -about it—a man and his wife were in the -habit of sending out every night and getting -a quart of beer for 10 cents. They drank this -before retiring, and were reasonably comfortable. -Prosperity came to them, and the man -bought a keg of beer. That night he drew off -a quart, and as he sat in his stocking-feet he -philosophized to his wife and said: “See how -we are saving money. By buying a keg of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span> -beer at a time this quart we are drinking costs -only 6 cents. So we are saving 4 cents.” -She looked at him with admiration, and replied: -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span>“How fine! Let’s have another quart -and save 4 cents more.”</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Historic_Leyden">Historic Leyden</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Leyden</span>, July 31.</p> - -<p>We came to Leyden to spend the night, -and have stayed three days. This was partly -because it is necessary to sometimes rest your -neck and feet, and partly because the Hotel -Levedag is one of those delightful places where -the beds are soft, the eats good and the help -around the hotel does its best to make you -comfortable. Leyden itself is worth while, -but ordinarily it would be disposed of in two -walks and a carriage-ride. It is a college -town, and this is vacation; so everybody in -the place has had the time to wait on wandering -Americans and make the process of extracting -their money as sweet and as long -drawn out as possible.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Leyden is a good deal like Lawrence, Kansas. -It is full of historic spots, and is very -quiet in the summer-time. In Leyden they -refer to the siege by the Spaniards in 1573 -just as the Lawrence people speak of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span> -Quantrill raid. The Dutch were in their war -for independence, and the Duke of Alva’s -army besieged Leyden. They began in October, -and as the town was well fortified it -resisted bravely. Early in the year the neighboring -town of Haarlem had surrendered and -the Spaniards had tied the citizens back to -back and chucked them into the river. The -Leydenites preferred to die fighting rather -than surrender and die. They had just about -come to starvation in March of the next year, -when they decided to break down the dikes -and let the sea take the country. The sea -brought in a relief fleet sent by William the -Silent, Prince of Orange, and the Spaniards -retreated before the water. Then the wind -changed, drove back the waves, and William -fixed the dikes. This siege of Leyden was -really one of the great events in history, and -the story goes that out of gratitude to the -people of the town William offered to exempt -them from taxes for a term of years or to establish -a University in their city. Leyden -took the University, which is hard to believe -of the Dutch, unless they were farseeing -enough to know that the students would be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span> -a never-ending source of income and that the -taxes would come back. The university thus -established by William of Orange in 1575 has -been one of the best of the educational institutions -in Europe, and has produced many -great scholars. It now has 1700 students and -a strong faculty. Some of the boys must be -making up flunks by attending summer school, -for last night at an hour when all good Dutchmen -should be in bed, the sweet strains came -through the odor of the canal, same old tune -but Dutch words: “I don’t care what becomes -of me, while I am singing this sweet -melody, yip de yaddy aye yea, aye yea, yip-de -yaddy, aye yea.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_fp074.jpg" alt="" width="391" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">NO PLACE FOR A MAN FROM KANSAS</span></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<p>The river Rhine filters through Leyden and -to the sea. It never would get there, for -Leyden is several feet below the sea-level, but -by the use of big locks the Dutch raise the -river to the proper height and pour it in. -These are the dikes the Dutch opened to -drive out the Spaniards. It is so easy I -wonder they did not do it earlier. At any -rate, the Spaniards never got much of a hold -in this part of Holland again. The sand<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span>hills -along the beach make an ideal bathing-place. -I took a canal-boat and in three hours -time covered the six miles from Leyden to -Katryk. The Dutch ladies and gentlemen -were playing in the water and on the sand, -and it was no place for a man from Kansas. -I have no criticism of these big bathing-beaches -and we have some in our own fair -land where the scenery is just as startling. -But the Dutch ladies consider a skirt which -does not touch the ground the same as immodest. -And no Dutch gentleman will appear -in public without his vest as well as his -coat. On the beach the reaction is great, so -great that I don’t blame the Spaniards for -running away.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>It was in Leyden that the congregation of -Puritans resided which sent the delegation -of Pilgrim Fathers across the Atlantic in -1620. In St. Peter’s church John Robinson, -the pastor, lies buried, and there he is said -to have preached. A tablet tells of the house -across the way which occupies the site of the -little church in which Robinson held forth for -years. The present house was not built un<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span>til -1683, but that is close enough to make it -interesting. The Puritans had several congregations -in Leyden, but the Robinson -church is the only one that made history. -When the civil war broke out in England and -Cromwell was leading the cause of liberty, -all of the Puritans in Leyden who had not -gone to America and who could raise the fare, -returned to England and disappeared from -the Dutch records. They were fine people -in many ways, but the Dutch did not try to -get them to stay. They dearly loved to -argue, and when it was necessary to promote -religious freedom by punching the heads of -those who did not believe as they did, the -Puritans were there with the punch.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Rembrandt, the great Dutch painter, was -born in Leyden, in 1606. A stable now marks -the spot where he first saw the light. It is -a little difficult to get up a thrill in a livery -stable, but we did our best. Rembrandt’s -father was a miller, and operated one of these -big Dutch windmills. When Rembrandt was -about 25 years old he married and moved to -Amsterdam, but he did not settle down.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span> -While he became popular and made a good -deal of money, he was no manager and he -spent like a true sport. When his wife died -he went broke, and lived the last years of his -life in a modest way. About 550 paintings -are now known and attributed to him, together -with about 250 etchings and more -than a thousand drawings. His portrayals -of expression and of lights and shadows are -the great points of excellence in his work, but -he was a master of every detail of the art. -His pictures command more money than those -of any other artist, and to my notion he is -the greatest of all the great painters. Most -of the other old fellows have left but few -masterpieces, while Rembrandt never did anything -but great work. The Dutch worship -God, Rembrandt and William of Orange, and -I never can tell which comes first with them.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>There is a hill in Leyden, eighty feet high -and several hundred yards around the base. -It is well covered with trees, and was topped -with a fort in the good old days. Unfortunately, -the buildings around it—for it is in -the middle of town—keep it from being seen<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span> -at a distance. People come from far and -near to see the hill. It is as much of a novelty -in this part of Holland as a Niagara -would be in Kansas.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The public market is a feature in every -Dutch town, as it is in most European countries. -A large square is devoted to the purpose, -and here the fish, the vegetables and -everything from livestock to second-hand -books is offered for sale. The square and -the sidewalks are covered with the market -displays, the farmers, the fishermen, the buyers, -and the curious. There is only one small -newspaper in this city of 60,000 inhabitants, -but I suppose everybody hears the news at -the market. It is better than a show, or an -art gallery, or a cathedral, to see the dickering, -hear the talk and watch the people. -The housewives or their representatives are -there with baskets and comments, and the -men of the town have some excuse to be -around. Peasant costumes, peculiar headdresses, -large fat ladies, wooden shoes, and -all the odd and picturesque things that you -can put into a landscape surrounded by quaint<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span> -buildings and a canal, are mixed in confusion -and yet in order. The colors which the -painters put into their Holland pictures are -present, and the sturdy, thrifty, trafficking -Dutch people are there with the petticoats -or the tobacco-smoke, which their sex calls -for under such circumstances. Here in Leyden, -where a house less than a hundred years -old is a curiosity and where Dutch traditions -are held as sacred, we have enjoyed the wonderful -nature-picture of this moving market. -And I might add that we have contributed -greatly to the hilarity of the occasion by our -own peculiar appearance and ways—peculiar -from the view-point of the other fellow.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Dutch_Capital">The Dutch Capital</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">The Hague</span>, Aug. 2.</p> - -<p>This is the capital of Holland and soon will -be, in a way, of the civilized world. The first -international peace conference was held here, -followed by the establishment of an international -tribunal to decide disputes between -nations, and now, thanks to President Taft’s -statesmanship, the nations are agreeing to -arbitrate all differences, and this Hague tribunal -will doubtless be the court of last resort -for the world. The propriety of the selection -of The Hague is not questioned. Holland is -a small nation, with practically no forts or -standing army or navy. It is not a factor in -international politics, and its own independence -and integrity are guaranteed by the -various treaties between the nations. Its importance -is commercial and not political, it -has no alliances, and occupies a unique position -among the countries of Europe. Paris -or London or Berlin would not do for the -location of an international tribunal, because<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span> -each would be subject to local influence and -force, but all nations can come to The Hague, -the capital of the country whose territory -they have promised to protect. As the arbitration -treaties increase in number the practice -of referring disputes to The Hague will become -almost universal, and it seems to me -that this will make the beautiful Dutch city -the capital of the world. Other cities will -strive for commercial supremacy, but The -Hague will be the center for statesmanship -and government.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Dutch have abbreviated the old name -S’Gravenhage to Den Haag, and they pronounce -the name of the capital just as we do -the word hog. The old word meant “The -Count’s Hedge” or wood, because there was -a small forest here belonging to the Counts -of Holland. The forest is still here, a beautiful -piece of natural woods about a mile and a half -long and half as wide. At the farther end of -this forest is “The House in the Wood,” -which is in fact a beautiful little palace built -in 1645 by Princess Amalia, the widow of -Prince Frederick Henry of Orange. Amalia<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span> -had a new idea in memorials, for the principal -room of the palace, the orange room, is decorated -by pictures from the brushes of pupils of -Rubens, and while they portray scenes in the -life of the Prince they are full of fat cherubs, -scantily dressed ladies and very racy suggestion. -I am told Amalia was that way, but -I have no personal knowledge. All this happened -nearly 300 years ago, and in any event -she had a most charming palace. Several -rooms are filled with gifts from the Emperors -of China and Japan to Wilhelmina, and they -add to the general hilarity of the memorial.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Although The Hague was the center of the -Dutch government practically all the time -from 1584, when the representatives of the -Dutch provinces met here to form a League -against Spain, it had no representation in the -government until the last century. The original -cities in the federation refused to admit -The Hague, and it was a sort of District of -Columbia until Napoleon took possession of -Holland on the theory that it was formed from -the deposits of dirt made by French rivers. -Napoleon gave The Hague a local government,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span> -which it has since retained. It has grown -much in late years, and is a beautiful city with -good architecture, many wide streets, fine -public buildings, handsome private homes, -pretty canals, and shaded avenues. It is a -custom in Holland and the Dutch colonies -for men of wealth to come to The Hague, put -up fine houses and spend some of their money, -just as the “town farmers” do in Hutchinson.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We went to see the Gevangenpoort, an -ancient tower in which prisoners were confined, -tortured and executed. They still keep -some of the interesting machines with which -justice was dealt out in the good old days. A -prisoner whom the authorities desired to convict -would be allowed to prove his innocence -by the ordeal of fire. He was permitted to -walk with bare feet on a red hot gridiron. If -he was innocent the heat would not affect his -naked soles, if guilty it would. But that is -nothing. Our own dear old Pilgrim fathers -used to take a woman charged with witchcraft -and toss her into a pond. If she were a witch, -the evil spirit would keep her from drowning -and the Puritans would put her to death. If<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span> -she drowned, her innocence of the charge was -proven—and they buried her in the churchyard.</p> - -<p>The Dutch got their early ideas of prison -reform from the Spaniards. There is a machine -in the Gevangenpoort which dropped -water onto a man’s head for hours. If he lived -he was crazy. Then they had a 1611 model -of a rack which would break the bones in the -arms and legs and not kill the prisoner, and -he could be tortured later. Pincers to pull -out finger-nails, branding-irons, and stocks -that kept a man or a woman standing on the -toes for hours, were light punishments for -petty thievery. A very popular form of punishment -was to hang the prisoner by his feet, -head down, and let the populace come in and -enjoy the sight. Of course these old instruments -are mere relics now, but just remember -they were the real thing only 300 years ago, -and 300 years is not long in the history of the -world. We never think that it was just as -long between 1311 and 1611 as it has been -from 1611 to now. We confusedly jumble all -the events of about 500 years into “Middle -Ages,” and can’t remember which was in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span> -which century. The last 300 years seem long -and full of events, while the three centuries -before are remembered as all of one time. I -wonder if the people on earth in 2211 will look -over some Gevangenpoort of ours and shudder -at the savagery of 1911?</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Incidentally I want to report that the people -of Europe are looking on President Taft as -the great man of the age—I mean the great -common people are. His successful advocacy -of international arbitration is hailed as the -coming of an era of peace. You don’t know -what that means to Europe, where nearly -every man has to give years of his life to army -service, where heavy taxes for forts and ships -bear down on the people, and where there is -always a possibility of war with a neighboring -nation, which would mean great loss of life. -Nearly all of this war sacrifice falls upon the -people, and while they patriotically sustain -their governments they hail Taft’s policy of -peace as the greatest help that has come to -them in countless years, the advance step that -will relieve the burden that bends the back -of what Mr. Bryan calls “the plain common<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span> -people.” No wonder these people are for -Taft but of course they can’t vote for him -in 1912.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The government of Holland is a sort of -aristocratic republic with a monarch for ornament. -There is a lower house of congress -elected by popular vote, with some restrictions -as to property on the right of suffrage. There -is an upper house selected with still more restrictions. -The upper house only can introduce -bills. The lower house only can enact -them into laws. The queen signs when the -Dutch congress, or states-general, tells her to -sign. She gets a salary of about $400,000 a -year and is rich in her own right. The business -men complain that she is stingy and the -women say she is slouchy. Taxes are high, -and in all the forms imaginable. They tax -theatre tickets, bank checks, receipts, all documents, -incomes and lands, and in some places -the number of windows in a house. Taxes -are “high” everywhere I go. I thought perhaps -when I got where I could not understand -the language I would no longer be bored by -the man who complains about taxes. But I<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span> -have not yet found that place. I suppose -when I quit traveling on this earthly sphere -the first thing I will hear will be a kick on the -cost of paving the golden streets, or a complaint -that the tax on sulphur is going to kill -the prosperity of the country.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Dutch_Company">“The Dutch Company.”</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Arnhem</span>, August 5th.</p> - -<p>This is the “last chance” station in Holland. -About ten miles more and we cross the line -into Germany. This is also the only hilly -part of Holland, and it really is a surprise to -find that somewhere in this little country there -are neither canals nor dikes. The river Rhine -flows here with some current, and the official -documents say that at Arnhem it is 35 feet -above the level of the sea. Right sharp little -hills, as big as those about Strong City, rise -from the river bank, and are covered with -woods and handsome homes. Queen Wilhelmina -has her summer residence near here, -and Dutch colonials, who have made their -fortunes and returned to the native land, are -fond of this small and elevated piece of Netherland. -The Dutch make a great deal of money -out of their East India colonies, one of which -is Java. They are not so much interested in -preparing the Javanese or the Mochans for -the work of self-government as our folks are<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span> -the Filipinos. The Dutch theory is to treat -the natives kindly but make them work as -the dogs do in Holland. And the Javanese or -the Javans, or whatever you call them, are -too busy to get dissatisfied and plan revolutions. -This question of what to do with the -white man’s burden is a hard one to settle -offhand. The brown people do not understand -the American motives, and the Americans are -probably the most detested people in the -Orient. And yet the Americans are the only -conquering nation which does not regard colonies -as personal property and which tries to -elevate the citizenship it finds. The English -hold India by fear, but some day the English -are going to be chased out of that part of Asia -by the Indians they try to keep down. The -other European nations make no bones of the -fact that they own and operate their foreign -possessions for what they can get out of them.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>A Hollander makes a very strong American -when he is caught young. On shipboard I -made the acquaintance of a young man about -25 years old who had been in America nine -years, and was now going to his birthplace,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span> -The Hague, on business for the Chicago firm -with which he is connected. I met him in The -Hague this week. He wore a western cowboy -hat, had a small American flag in his button-hole, -and wore no vest. The stories he was -telling about the United States to his Dutch -friends showed that he would have made a -success as a real-estate man if he had settled -in western Kansas. And the manner in which -he did not take off his hat when he met a -doctor or a lawyer or a duke or a notary public -was shocking to his family, but was sweet -American patriotism to him. He was still -loyal to Holland, but he would not trade his -new home with its opportunities for all the -comforts of canals and clean streets. “You -see,” he said, “in Holland every man has to -take off his hat to those above him—and there -are always those above him.” Of course we -have classes, in a way, in our country, but a -man never has to take off his hat or pay -homage to another man, and the real American, -home-grown or imported, can’t get that -feeling of equality out of his system. I think -the Europeans must grow very tired of us -Americans, our blustering ways and bragging<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span> -talk, but they are kind enough not to mention -it so long as our money holds out.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Passenger fares on trains are cheaper in -Holland than with us. But of course their -railroad business is really like an interurban -street-car system. Freight rates are higher -than with us. The wages paid railway employés -run from 60 cents a day to section -hands up to $2 a day for an engineer—just -about one-third to one-half our schedule. The -service is good, the stations and tracks are -better, every little country road-crossing is -protected by a flagman or a flagwoman. Of -course the canals and rivers do so much of the -carrying business, and distances are so small, -that comparisons are hard to make. There is -no such thing in Holland as a sandwich or a -piece of pie, and yet there are very successful -and excellent lunch-rooms in every station. -The first-and second-class passengers usually -have a lunch-room with upholstered furniture, -while the third-class travelers are compelled -to use wooden benches or stand up, a la Americaner. -The first-class railroad cars are fitted -out with plush, and there are sometimes toilet<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span> -accommodations on the cars. The second-class -cars are comfortably upholstered; the -third-class have plain seats like our street -cars. But remember you can go clear across -Holland in a couple of hours, and do not need -some of the comforts which are considered -necessities in America.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Dutch are great on fixing things comfortably -and neatly. If the beautiful Cow -Creek which winds its way through Hutchinson -were transferred to a Dutch town it would -be diked, the banks graded and covered with -grass and flowers and trees. The government -would do this, and would put seats along -the little park, and a band-stand from which -music would be heard, and swings for the -children, and almost every block there would -be a “garden” with tables and all the beer you -could drink—if you were Dutch—for two -cents. And the Government would make a -nice profit out of the restaurant business and -go ahead and dike another stream.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Dutchman is a great business man. -He works and saves and then he is not afraid<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span> -to spend—if he has a sure thing. I have seen -a business man smoking a cigarette, take out -of his vest pocket a pair of scissors, snip off -the burning end and put the unconsumed half -of a cigarette back in his case. No Dutchman -is afraid to demand cheap prices while traveling -at home. The average American who -goes through Europe with the theory of spending -his money like a sport must fill the Dutchman -with disgust. You don’t impress the -Hollanders that way. On the other hand, -these Dutchmen will investigate and spend -barrels of money on dikes, drains, railroads, -buildings and large investments in all parts of -the world. I suppose the almost penurious -saving comes from the fight with the sea, in -which everything had to be watched and -worked for, while the ability to handle big -affairs results from the consciousness of having -wrested a lot of land from the ocean and having -made good with it.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Dutch are proverbially honest. Of -course I have been over-charged some, but I -have never been anywhere on either side of -the Atlantic where the rule was not observed,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span> -“he was a stranger and I took him in.” They -hold a visitor up much more in Kansas City -than in Amsterdam, and a man from Kansas -who goes to New York is not even given the -protection of the game laws. In fact, a -stranger who does not know the language is -treated much better in Europe than in America. -I have often had a man walk half a block -to show me the way when I could not understand -his words. I say “walk a block,” but -there is no such phrase in Dutch. There are -no regular sized blocks, so a direction is given -as “five minutes” or “two minutes, then to -the right three minutes.” That is supposed -to mean an average walk; but as legs differ -in size and rapidity it is often confusing. I -am told in the rural districts a distance is given -as so many smokes, meaning the number of -pipefuls of tobacco that a Dutchman would -consume in going that far. But I have discovered -that in Holland a pipe is a rarity. The -men smoke cigars and smoke them incessantly. -They are cheap. I get a good cigar, equivalent -to a Tom Moore, for two cents American -money. When I buy cigars I want to stay -in Holland. But practically everything ex<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span>cept -cigars, beer and wooden shoes costs as -much here as in the United States. Yes, there -is one thing that costs less, and that is labor. -Therefore hand-carved wood, hand-crocheted -lace, hand-made shoes, tailored clothes, and -houses are less expensive than with us. The -more I see of a country where everything -labor produces is cheap, the more I am in -favor of high prices and good wages. Holland -is probably the best country in Europe for a -laboring man, but I don’t see how one can get -ahead, unless he does without meat and wears -the same suit for years, and his family economize -the same way. Here in the land of cheese -and butter, both articles are out of reach and -the workingman uses “margarine.”</p> - -<p>But now it is goodby to the land of the dikes, -the canals, the windmills and the wooden -shoes. They are all here as advertised, and -they color the lives of the people as they do the -landscape of the country. To the eye they -are artistic and beautiful, but in practice they -are common, plain necessities, and in these -signs the Dutch have conquered.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96"></a>[96]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Great_River">The Great River</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Koenigswinter, Germany</span>, August 7.</p> - -<p>The river Rhine is in many respects the -greatest river in the world. It is greatest in -commercial importance, historical interest and -artistic development. It has been the line of -battle in Europe for centuries, since Cæsar -first crossed the stream and met the original -Germans. After that time it was the frontier -of the Roman empire until Rome fell, and -then it became the object for which Europe -fought. The Germans and the French met -on the Rhine, the other “civilized countries” -got in the game, and the valley was filled with -feudal counts and princes who sometimes took -one side and sometimes the other, whichever -seemed to offer them the best pickings. The -broad and deep stream was a highway of -commerce, and the old champions of chivalry, -with whom robbery and murder were the -principal business, built castles on the hills, -and whenever they saw a merchant with a rich -caravan of goods, down they would swoop on<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97"></a>[97]</span> -him, grab his valuables and kill the defenders. -These adventures and wars were what the -world called history, and during the Middle -Ages the place where hell was continually -breaking out was along this beautiful valley. -The use of gunpowder finally put an end to -knights in armor, and the Germans and the -French struggled for the Rhine. Napoleon -conquered the valley, organized it into a republic, -and finally annexed it to France. The -Allies conquered Napoleon and restored the -Prussian king and the petty princes to their -possessions. The war of 1870 between Germany -and France pushed the boundary a considerable -distance west, and made the Rhine -valley all German, under the newly organized -empire.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Most rivers begin in a small way, from -springs, creeks and little streams. The Rhine -is the outlet of Lake Constance, and rushes out -of that inland sea a great river ready-made, -and begins with a magnificent waterfall -second only to Niagara. It is a wide, deep -river, and as soon as it emerges from the Swiss -mountains becomes the great highway through<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98"></a>[98]</span> -Germany and Holland to the ocean. Along its -banks are timber, coal and iron, great cities -with factories, and fertile lands tilled to the -utmost point. The freight rate is the lowest -possible, and the productive value of the -country is increased by the ease and cheapness -with which the markets of the world are -reached. Steamboats and barges go up and -down in much greater numbers than do the -freight trains of America’s greatest railroad. -For much of its length the banks are walled, -and the cities, towns and villages are almost -continuous. In width the river is from 500 -to 1500 feet, and it is about 550 miles long. -The last 360 miles, from Manheim to the -German ocean, has a channel of not less than -thirty feet in depth, and in that 360 miles -the fall is only 280 feet, the last hundred miles -only 33 feet.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>So much for the Rhine from a business -viewpoint. This little town of Koenigswinter -is on “the picturesque Rhine,” at the foot of -the Drachenfels, the last of the big hills or -mountains by which the Rhine flows in its -course from Manheim to Cologne. We stopped<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99"></a>[99]</span> -at the little city of Bonn, seat of a good university, -and an old town. Beethoven was born -in Bonn, and we visited the little house he -selected for that event in his life. It was most -interesting to see the things used by the great -composer, among them the original drafts of -many of his great works. Beethoven’s folks -were poor, and when only a boy he played the -pipe organ at the church and was in the Bonn -string band. When 22 years of age he went to -Vienna, where he was taken care of financially -by the Austrian emperor. He never married. -He and a countess fell in love with each other, -but her folks did not approve of her marrying -a musician. Beethoven’s father sang tenor -and his grandfather had led the Bonn brass -band, and Beethoven himself was giving -lessons. So they could not marry, though I -don’t see why the countess did not arrange -it later when Beethoven became famous. But -he was very deaf and probably very cranky, -for he was a great musician, and perhaps the -Lady Amelia backed out herself.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>This is what is called the picturesque Rhine, -for here the river runs through some German<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100"></a>[100]</span> -mountains, which rise almost abruptly from -the banks. The mountain-sides are cultivated -as we do first-bottom land. The principal product -is the grape, which gets just the proper -sunlight on these mountain-sides to make its -juice command more money than the wine -from the back country. There are also many -truck farms, small pastures, patches of alfalfa -and wheat, all tilted up from the river -at an angle of 45 to 90 degrees. The roads are -good and white, the fields just now are green, -the sky is a blue like the sky in Italy and -Kansas. The little towns with their white-washed -houses and red-tiled roofs cluster -every mile or so along the river, and the view -from the mountains or from the river is one -that makes the tickle come around the heart. -In this beautiful spot where nature and man -have both been busy for so many hundred -years we are spending a few days for rest.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_fp100.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">THE POET BYRON BUILDING CASTLES</span></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<p>Of course I climbed the Drachenfels, the -mountain which looms up like a sentinel and -has on its top a ruined castle with a view and -a legend. Byron told of the great view, and -every tourist who stops has to climb the -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101"></a>[101]</span>mountain. So we climbed. Mr. Byron was -right this time, for the view is grand. Ordinarily -I take little stock in Byron’s fits over -scenery. He traveled through Europe and had -thrills over some very ordinary things. Byron -could take a few drinks and then reel off some -verses which gave an old ruin or a tumble-down -castle a reputation which it will use -forever as a bait for tourists. But this time -Byron was right, for the panorama of the -Rhine valley, made up of the river, the hills, -the sky, the shades of growing green, the white-and-red -towns, and the boats as noiseless as -birds, is one worth more than the twenty-five -American cents it takes to make the climb on a -cog-wheel railroad.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The ruined castle, which stands about 1,000 -feet above the Rhine and yet so near it seems -that one could throw a stone from the parapet -into the river, was occupied by a line of the -fiercest gentlemen that ever robbed an innocent -traveler. For several hundred years no -one was safe to go this way unless he paid -the robber barons, who had a sort of confederacy -or union, in which the Count of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102"></a>[102]</span> -Drachenfels was one of the main guys. The -name means the dragon’s rock, and comes -from the fact that a Dragon once resided in a -cave near the top. The legend says that it -was customary among the old heathen to feed -prisoners to the Dragon, so he would look -pleasant and not roar at night. Returning -from a trip into the west they brought a -number of captives, among them a beautiful -Christian maiden. The heathen young men -all wanted the girl, so the wise chief decided -that she should be given to the Dragon, thus -preventing a scrap among the brethren and -paying special tribute to the Drag. They -formed a procession and marched to the big -rock where they were accustomed to lay out -provisions for his nibs. The beautiful girl was -bound hand and foot, covered with flowers, and -then the crowd got back to see the Dragon do -the rest. The Dragon came out roaring like a -stuck pig, but when the girl held out a crucifix -toward him he bolted, ran and jumped from -the rock into the river. The best-looking -young man among the heathen then rushed -forward and released the lady, married her, -and they lived happily ever afterward,—so<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103"></a>[103]</span> -the legend says. And there is no reason to -doubt the legend, for there is the rock, there -is the river into which the Dragon leaped, and -he never did come back.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104"></a>[104]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Along_the_Rhine">Along the Rhine</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Koenigswinter</span>, August 8.</p> - -<p>Next to riding on a Dutch canal comes a -trip on the Rhine. The passenger steamers and -motor-boats go up and down this part of the -Rhine like street cars. Every boat is comfortably -equipped with refreshment parlors and -restaurants, and the waiters keep trying to -please the thirsty traveler by offering him wine -and beer. It is hard on a Kansan. What -these Germans need is a governor and an attorney-general -and a row over the joint -question. Poor Germans! they do not know -it, and they keep right on drinking beer and -growing fat and looking happy. Aside from -this unfortunate habit, which does not seem -to hurt them as it ought to, the Germans are -a fine lot of folks. They are immensely proud -of their country, which is a trifle hard on us -modest Americans. They really believe Germany -can lick the world, and they have a -notion that there is no nation so progressive -as theirs. In some respects they are right,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105"></a>[105]</span> -and in many phases of business and scientific -advancement the Germans lead the world.</p> - -<p>I am inclined to attribute this to their -public-school system, which is superior to ours -in some respects. Without going into an extended -argument on the subject, I will explain -my reason for this opinion. The German -system of education is very rigid for the boys -and girls. The discipline in the common -schools is military. The children go to school -more months in the year and they are compelled -to learn. There is no foolishness, no -excuses from fond parents, no late parties, no -indifference, no any-thing-to-get-through. -The German teachers are not content with -getting the children to pass, but they insist -they shall <i>know</i> their studies. This severe -training is kept up until the boy or girl goes -to the university, and then discipline is relaxed -and he or she can do about as they -please so far as personal conduct is concerned. -In America the parents and the government -let the little folks do as they please outside of -short school hours, and then tighten up the -in high school and university. Our -scheme doesn’t work well. Our grade schools<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106"></a>[106]</span> -turn out indifferent scholars and boys and -girls who have not been trained to study. -Our course of study is fixed to make it easy, -when every one knows that hard work is -needed to develop character. If the Germans -go ahead of the Americans in the next generation -it will be because their school system is -better than ours, because it trains the children -better for the work to come. The Germans -think just as much of their children as do the -Americans of theirs, but they do not spoil -them,—which is a great American fault and -which counts against the children ever afterward.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We rode on the boat to Godesberg, and -Rolandseck and Heisterbach, and Johannisberg, -and Niersteiner, and all the other places -which are recorded on the wine-card at a -Kansas City hotel. The very names are -enough to make a Kansas man file an information -with the county attorney. Each town has -its brand of wine, its old castles, its flourishing -business, its comfortable hotels, and its legends -of olden times. Most of the legends tell of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107"></a>[107]</span> -triumph of True Love, but here is an exception:</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>An old knight whose castle at Schoenberg -was an important place in the feudal system -of tax collection, had seven beautiful daughters. -He died; these seven girls ruled in the -castle, and all they cared for was a good time. -They went hunting, gave late supper parties, -and were much talked about; but their beauty -and the castle of their inheritance kept them -popular with the men. Many knights asked -them to marry, but each and every suitor was -given the merry ha-ha by the maiden he -sought. Knights even fought and killed each -other, disputing as to the merits of the sisters, -and the ladies made such funerals the scenes -of great enjoyment. Finally the knights had -a mass meeting, and resolved that the seven -sisters be required to select husbands. When -this news was conveyed to the sisters they -said this was just what they wanted. They -proposed that they would give a picnic, to -which all the would-be husbands should be invited, -and after lunch they would announce<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108"></a>[108]</span> -the knights of their choice. The picnic day -came, and it rained in the morning as it always -does on picnic days. The knights came with -their swords and their lunch-baskets and stood -around throwing balls for the cigars and shaking -for the lemonade, until the skies cleared -and it was announced that the seven sisters -would be in at once or as soon as they had -finished dressing. Then came another hour’s -wait. Suddenly a boat appeared around the -bend, and in it were the Seven, all decked out -with big hats and rhinestone buckles. The -eldest sister stood up in the boat, screaming -as it rocked, and said: “We don’t care to -marry any of you country jakes. We are going -to Cologne to visit a cousin, and there we -propose to have a good time without being -obliged to throw down some knight who wants -a bride and a meal ticket every so often.” -The other sisters joined in singing the old-time -version of “Goodby, my lover, goodby,” and -the boat sailed for Cologne. The knights -cussed, and laid the blame onto each other; -but suddenly a storm arose, and the boat -began to bob around in the waves. The seven -sisters screamed, but it did them no good.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109"></a>[109]</span> -The boat upset, and all on board were -drowned.</p> - -<p>This legend teaches flirtatious young ladies -not to trifle with the home boys.</p> - -<p>On the spot where the boat went under, -seven pointed rocks appear above the surface -of the water even up to today. I saw them, -and I guess that proves the legend.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I have always believed that Kansas people -make a mistake in neglecting the legend crop. -For example, a good legend about Elmdale -Park in Hutchinson would cause thousands of -people to visit it and pay 10 cents apiece, besides -buying post-cards and printed copies -of the beautiful story, which might go something -like this:</p> - -<p>Once upon a time there lived in the First -Ward a man and his wife who had an only -daughter. They were the only father and -mother she had, so honors were about even -on that point. They loved this Daughter so -much that when she grew up she was not -taught to sew or to cook, but to play the piano -and to sing “Love Me and the World is Mine.” -She was very beautiful as she sat on the front<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110"></a>[110]</span> -porch reading the latest novel, “The Soul of -My Soul,” while her mother fried the beefsteak -for supper. Suitors came from far and -near, one of them a brakeman on the Missouri -Pacific, and another an assistant chief clerk -in a hash foundry. But her choice fell upon a -handsome young knight she met at Elmdale -Park, who wore an open-faced vest and a -Brazilian diamond on his shirt front, but who -had quit school in order to go to work and then -forgot about it. He saw the clean home and -he smelled the fried steak and thought the -young lady did it all, when in fact the young -lady could not boil an egg. They were married, -and he at once came to live with his wife’s -folks. The old Father developed an unexpected -trait, and insisted that the Bridegroom -should pay board, which he proudly refused -to do, took his bride and went to Wichita. -There he was offered a position as chamber-maid -in a livery stable and the Girl found it -necessary at odd times to do the laundry work -for a small boarding-house. Thus they lived -for nearly two years, when she borrowed a -postage stamp and wrote home: “I have a -Divorce and two children.” The father and -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111"></a>[111]</span>mother promptly sent her enough money to -pay her fare, and she returned to the castle -of her childhood. But she had learned a -lesson. The next time she got married she did -not pick up a friend in Elmdale Park, but -made him show her his bank book and his receipt -for dues in the Modern Woodmen. At -the place in Elmdale Park where she met her -first soul-mate she planted a cottonwood tree, -which is there yet, and under its shade lovers -now meet, remember this legend and buy post-cards -which tell the story.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_fp110.jpg" alt="" width="406" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">THE HANDSOME KNIGHT SHE MET IN ELMDALE PARK</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112"></a>[112]</span></p> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="In_German_Towns">In German Towns</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Cologne, Germany</span>, August 9.</p> - -<p>This is the big town of the lower Rhine -country in Germany, though it has rivals -which may sometime take the title away. It -is also the old town, and there have been -many hot times in its history. It was started -in the first century of the Christian era as a -colony by Aggripina, the mother of Nero, and -a lot of Roman soldiers were given extra rights -for settling in the new town. A couple of -hundred years later a bridge was built across -the Rhine, and Cologne became of commercial -importance. When Christianity was extended -to this section it was made the seat of a bishop -and then of an archbishop. It grew rapidly -and was independent in its tendencies, so -when the break-up came of the old Roman -empire it became a free city, and with some -bossing by the archbishop the people ruled, -that is, the wealthier and more important, a -sort of aristocracy. Napoleon annexed Cologne -to France, but when he was overthrown<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113"></a>[113]</span> -the city was handed over to the king of Prussia, -and it has been Prussian ever since. In the -last hundred years Cologne has developed as -the great jobbing and commercial city of this -section. It is full of quaint old houses, narrow -streets, medieval architecture, and has the -best cathedral in Europe. Dutch and German -cathedrals are generally Protestant, but the -Cologne cathedral is Catholic. When the -Reformation came the Lutherans especially -enjoyed capturing a cathedral, tearing down -the images and statues, destroying all the -artistic beauty they could, and making the -house of God as plain and uncomfortable as -possible. On the other hand, the Catholics -believed in beautifying and adorning their -churches. The present-day Protestants doubtless -wish their predecessors had been less -zealous and that the beautiful decorations and -paintings had not been defaced by whitewash. -The Cologne cathedral is the finest specimen -of Gothic architecture in the world. Of course -it is in the shape of a cross, and is 157 yards -long, 94 yards wide, 201 feet to the roof, 357 -feet to the tower over the center, and the -towers are 515 feet high. These figures give<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114"></a>[114]</span> -no idea of the impressive and imposing interior; -and the exterior, which is a profusion -of turrets, gargoyles, cornices, galleries and -other decorations, makes the visitor catch his -breath as he looks at this great structure. The -foundation of this cathedral was laid in 1248 -and the work was completed thirty years ago; -so there was no rush about the job.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Twenty-five miles below Cologne is Düsseldorf, -also on the Rhine, and the place where -the iron and coal development of Germany -seeks its market. You know what iron and -coal did for Pittsburg, and it is the same with -Düsseldorf. It is the growing city of the section, -and threatens to pass Cologne. As -Düsseldorf is largely modern, having developed -since the days of railroads and steel -bridges, it has wide streets, beautiful buildings, -and its architecture is of the present -generation. Düsseldorf is noted for its municipal -ownership, and is often called a model -city. The town owns the street cars, the light -system, the docks on the river, the water -plant, a pawn-shop and a lot of other things, -including a couple of breweries. Municipal<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115"></a>[115]</span> -ownership comes easier in the Old World than -in the New. It was formerly the custom of the -government to own everything, and to lay -out parks and provide utilities for the people, -who were then too poor to do much themselves. -So the modern European government, -which is largely popular, succeeds to the power -of the ancient monarchical rule, and provides -the big things for the people. A strong-handed -ruler who can condemn private property, and -wisely put the good of the entire community -above the property and welfare of individuals, -does these public works much better than our -own municipal governments, which have restricted -powers and which have to do what the -people want rather than tell the people what -they ought to do. Generally speaking the -public ownership of utilities is a good thing, -provided the government has the power and -the integrity to do the business right. Düsseldorf -has a mayor and twelve salaried aldermen, -a common council of 56 members, and -over 5,000 city employés.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>One great difference between Germans and -Americans is the regard in which they hold the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116"></a>[116]</span> -law. Unfortunately, our new civilization has -brought about a general feeling that the law -is meant for the other fellows and we obey -it if we have to. For that reason it is easier -for a German municipality to manage business -than it is for an American—and especially -for a Kansan. Imagine what would happen -in Hutchinson if the city owned a couple of -breweries like the city of Düsseldorf. The next -spring election the candidates would be running -on the beer issue, and there would be all -kinds of opinions. In Düsseldorf they hire -expert brewers, sell the product, and the city -takes a good profit. In Hutchinson the First -Ward would be kicking because they didn’t -like the head brewer, the Sixth Ward would -demand a reduction in the price of beer, and -the Third Ward would make the candidates -pledge themselves to another beer garden in -the south part of town, where it would be poor -business. The final result would be that -Mayor Vincent and Dr. Winans and the rest -of the commission would be charged with -favoritism and defeated for reëlection, and -their successors would make beer at a loss and -nobody would be satisfied. The curse of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117"></a>[117]</span> -American municipal affairs is this playing of -politics with every petty question. The Germans -take the wiser method of cutting out -politics, selecting their best men for public -office, giving great respect to them personally, -and accepting the laws they enact. When the -mayor of Düsseldorf comes out for a walk -everybody he meets takes off his hat and -salutes. In our country everybody the mayor -meets has a kick about something, and as for -taking off his hat to the mayor—the American -citizen would see him in Halifax first.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>A Kansas man, Clarence Price, of Pittsburg, -stirred up all kinds of trouble in the -German empire recently. Price has a moving-picture -show, travel scenes and such, and is in -Europe to get some of the best and see the -local color. He thought it would be a fine -thing to compliment the German army with a -picture; so he had his machine at one of the -forts of Berlin taking views of the drill of an -artillery squad. The police saw him, and he -nearly spent the night in the Hotel de Jail. -It was all the American Consul and the Associated -Press could do to save him, for the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118"></a>[118]</span> -police believed he was a French spy, and as -they could not understand the Pittsburg -language and Price could not talk their German, -it was only with difficulty that he got -word to his friends and was finally released. -A German jail is not fitted up for pleasure -and comfort, but to make people sorry they -get there, and as the picture machine had been -confiscated there was not even the consolation -for the Kansas showman of being able -to present to the American public the sight -of German justice administered on the spot.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Everywhere in Germany the load the people -are carrying is militarism. The young men of -the country lose several of the best years of -their life in their army service, and heavy -taxes burden business and industry. The -people are patriotic, and this army is necessary, -for there is always the prospect of a -war, and of course they want to lick the other -fellow. But the newspapers are praising Taft -and urging that arbitration and disarmament -are practicable if the course marked out by -the United States is followed. It makes an -American really proud of his country and his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119"></a>[119]</span> -President when he hears the praise that is -everywhere bestowed on both for taking the -lead in the most important movement of the -times. There has been a marked change in -sentiment toward Americans among the educated -and upper classes the last few years. -The poor people always were strong for us. -But the business men and the newspapers, as -well as the brass collars, sneered at Americans -as mere money-makers. McKinley -brought the change when the United States -jumped into a war with Spain to help Cuba. -Dewey at Manila pounded it into their heads -with language the Europeans could understand. -Roosevelt’s dashing policies and his -stand for peace between Japan and Russia -impressed them wonderfully. And now Taft’s -policy of arbitration instead of war is receiving -the commendation of uppers and lowers, -and they recognize the statesmanship in the -treaties. To use one of Roosevelt’s favorite -words, it is bully to be an American and travel -in Europe, just to see how much better it is -at home and to feel the respect paid to our -great nation and its leaders.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120"></a>[120]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Arriving_in_Paris">Arriving in Paris</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>, August 11.</p> - -<p>Paris is a good deal like a circus, a three-ringed -one which strains the rubber in your -neck trying to see all you can before the acts -change. Even the arrival is theatrical. As -the train pulled into the Gare du Nord, after -making the last forty-five miles in fifty-five -minutes, I passed our hand baggage out -through the open car window to a porter, and, -going out the door myself, told him in a confident -tone “voiture,” which is the foolish -French word for cab. He understood, piloted -us through the big station and called a little -victoria with a seat for two. The driver wears -a white celluloid plug hat and a red face. He -drives a horse which probably fought with -Napoleon. He nods assent to the name of the -hotel as I mispronounce it, takes our three -grips on his seat, and away we go down the -street, the Lord and the cabby only knowing -where. On the sidewalks are busy people -talking French, walking French, and gesturing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121"></a>[121]</span> -French. The stores and shops are attractive, -for the French shopkeeper puts his best stuff -in the front window, whether he is selling hats -or sausages. Big busses, with people on top as -well as inside, motor cars and motor busses -with horns and honks, loaded wagons drawn -by heavy Norman horses, street sweepers -with brooms, policemen in red-and-blue uniforms, -maids in cap and gown, porters with -their work shirts outside their trousers, restaurants -and little cafés with tables and chairs on -the sidewalk and French men sipping absinthe -or cold coffee, buildings almost uniformly -six stories high, built with courts in -the center which are often seen through open -doors, and everybody talking, gesticulating -and screaming in a language you cannot understand,—that -is the confusion through which -we drive for two miles and for which journey -the cabman takes off his hat when I pay him -35 cents, which includes a 4-cent tip for himself. -The hotel porter, or chief clerk, the head -waiter, the pages, the manager and several -assistants meet us at the hotel door, and in -response to inquiries assure us that there is a -bath-room in the hotel and that they have a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122"></a>[122]</span> -“very nice” room. As an additional and decisive -argument why we should stop there the -chief clerk asserts that they have ice-water, -and the entire company falls back in an -ecstatic gesture which evidently means “What -do you think of that?” We examine the room, -agree upon a price, and then and not till then -do we dismiss the cabman and proceed to get -settled. We are in Paris, the dirtiest and -prettiest city in the world.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Of course the first thing to do is to get out -and see the sights, but of course it is not. The -first thing is to get the mail and the next is to -clean up. After traveling eight hours on a fast -train through a country which has had no -rain for two months, one really does not care -for the wonderful things which the world talks -about. Then comes the French dinner, which -is something of an affair. A dinner in France -goes like this: Soup, fish or eggs, veal, beef or -mutton, and a vegetable and salad, cakes or -tarts, fruit or ice. No coffee is served with -the meal, but it is usually taken later and is an -additional charge. Any attempt to vary this -bill of fare is regarded as insane. I tried my<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123"></a>[123]</span> -best to get string beans served with my veal -course, but I couldn’t. The waiter said “Oui,” -then went and called the other waiters, and I -could see them looking at the crazy American. -That made me persistent, and I sent for the -head waiter and told him I wanted beans—and -I knew they had them ready. The head -waiter said “Oui” and disappeared, and soon -the clerks from the office strolled by and -looked in. By this time the veal was cold, -and I realized that any further attempt might -result in calling the police, so I gave it up. No -one refused to get my beans, but each time I -was told “oui,” which means “yes” and is -pronounced “we,” and each time nothing -further happened except the sympathizing -and curious mob. Once I traveled in Europe -with a friend named McGregor, who wanted -his coffee served with his meal, as it is in -Illinois. He was willing to pay any price and -he would put in his order hours ahead of mealtime. -Did he get it? Certainly not. Coffee -is not served with the dinner in France, and -that is all there is to it.</p> - -<p>American travelers have won on one point—ice. -Every hotel and restaurant which caters<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124"></a>[124]</span> -to American trade advertises ice-water. No -Frenchman will drink it, but in some way the -managers found that ice could be procured in -the summer-time, and as a special favor to -Americans, at a small increase in rates, the -hotels give us ice-water.</p> - -<p>No real French hotel has a bath-room, to -say nothing of a room with bath. I suppose -the French, who look clean, either go to the -creek or swim in the washbowl. Again the -American influence is felt. First-class hotels -now have bath-rooms, or a bath-room, and -when it is used the charge appears on the bill, -so much for a “grand bath.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>After dinner we went for a walk on the -boulevards, just as every Frenchman who can, -does every evening. The boulevards are the -wide streets which run through the city in -different directions, and were constructed at -first for military purposes. In the little narrow -streets of old Paris it was easy to start a -revolution by merely throwing a barricade -across a “rue,” prying up cobblestones for -weapons and stationing a few old women on -the housetops with pots of scalding water,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125"></a>[125]</span> -which are harder on soldiers than leaden -bullets. The revolution habit got so strong in -Paris that the boulevards were constructed -so the soldiers could march through the city -without being stopped by barricades and -mobs. They are likely to be used for that -purpose again sometime, but just now the -boulevards are largely for parades in which -French millinery and hosiery are placed on -exhibition every afternoon and evening. The -sidewalks are occupied by cafés, miles of them -it seems to me, and for the price of a drink, -from one cent up, and in substance from coffee -down, a Frenchman can occupy a comfortable -seat and observe the wonders of art and -glimpses of nature which pass by. An American -can do the same, only a real American can -never put in a whole evening consuming one -small cup of coffee or whatever other beverage -he can call for in the French language.</p> - -<p>So when I say we “went for a stroll,” we -did so in the Parisian sense. We went for a -sit, and let the promenaders do the strolling. -Here and there an orchestra was playing some -frivolous air, the street lights flashed from the -lamp-posts, old ladies sold newspapers and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126"></a>[126]</span> -post-cards, and the chattering but musical -French language filled the air with a suggestive -touch of the bohemian accent. The later the -hour the larger the crowd, until midnight -came, and then the Parisians went to the -dances and parties and the American visitors -to the hotels.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127"></a>[127]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_French_Character">The French Character</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>, August 13.</p> - -<p>It is a little hard to take Paris seriously, -because Paris refuses to take herself that -way. There is a cheerfulness and a playfulness -about the French folks that is hard to -appreciate from the calm viewpoint of an -Englishman or American. Our standards are -different along so many lines that comparisons -are unfair without explanations; and -who cares for long-winded explanations? According -to all the rules that are laid down in -the books of American etiquette, the people -of this city should be behind the rest of the -world in all the serious and necessary works -of life. And yet French generals have fought -and defeated larger armies with their French -soldiers, French engineers have performed -marvelous feats, French scientists are authority, -French musicians command the highest -prices, French business men do great things, -the French people are wealthy, and when it -comes to literature and art we in America are<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128"></a>[128]</span> -really small potatoes. The fact seems to be -that the Frenchman who promenades the -boulevard and the French lady who startles -the Puritan in us, are accomplishing just as -much with somewhat limited resources, as -we do, and we are the greatest people on -earth as we admit ourselves.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The show place in Paris is the parallelogram -along the Seine, consisting of the -Champs-Élysées, the Place de la Concorde, -the Tuileries gardens, and the Louvre art -gallery. This district is about three miles -long and averages a quarter of a mile wide. -It contains the Champs with beautiful gardens -and woods intersected by wide avenues, -then the Place de la Concorde, one of the -most beautiful squares in the world, the -Tuileries’ commodious public playgrounds, -with ponds and fountains; palaces with pictures, -statues and monuments historical and -allegorical; and the end is in the Louvre, -which is said to be the greatest collection of -art in existence. There is not a chord in the -human mind and heart which is not touched -beautifully and effectively by some part of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129"></a>[129]</span> -this magnificent public place, which belongs -to the people and is used by them. The more -one thinks over this feature, the more he must -realize that although the French do not conform -to our methods they are certainly able -to reach many of our best ideals, and whether -they go around or cross-lots to get there depends -upon the viewpoint of the critic.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The old Bourbon kings of France understood -their people. While they made it hard -for the common people to get a living they -made it easy for them to have a good time. -Whenever the public kicked on taxes, the -king laid out a new park and gave a fête with -free drinks and fireworks. The Bourbons -would probably be reigning yet if Louis the -Sixteenth and his wife, Marie Antoinette, had -had any sense. Antoinette was German and -did not understand the French ways, Louis -was a poor politician, and when a storm came -they lost their heads figuratively and then lost -them actually. The republic lasted a few -years and then Napoleon, who was as great -a player to the grandstand as he was a general, -became emperor, and only his foolish desire<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130"></a>[130]</span> -to conquer everybody lost him his job. The -Bourbons came back as kings, but they had -no sense. The French people want to be -fooled, and these kings couldn’t fool anybody. -So there was another republic, and then Napoleon -the Third came to the front on the -reputation of his uncle, the great Napoleon. -He worked the French people to a finish, -built palaces, boulevards and playgrounds -until he had everybody for him, and then got -captured by the Germans, lost his reputation -and throne, and France became a republic -for the third time. This was in 1871, and -the republic has lasted forty years, much -longer than expected, but in fact the government -has been wisely conducted and has understood -the French character well. There -is another Napoleon, by the name of Victor, -who is likely to come back, and sometime -when the government does an imprudent thing -the people will remember the good old times -of Napoleon and return to a monarchy. Victor -married the daughter of the old Emperor -of Belgium, and has a big campaign fund.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Of course everybody knows these facts, -and I have recited them to illustrate the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131"></a>[131]</span> -French national character. The French are -not false, but they are fickle. They like a -change, a novelty, an excitement. A revolution, -or a new government, appeals to their -sense of enjoyment just as does a new picture, -a new hat, or a new coiffure. In spite -of this trait they have done great things in -all the great lines of advancement and progress. -Theoretically they should be failures, -but in fact they are successful. They consider -Paris the greatest city of the world, and -the way the people of other countries come -here and add to the circulating medium seems -to prove they are right. They practically -refuse to learn any other language, but all -other countries study French. Thousands of -English and American Puritans come to Paris -every year, but the Frenchman who travels -for pleasure is unknown. Why is it? I give -it up, unless we have some French tastes along -with our English standards.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The French people are the most temperate, -most economical and most saving of any of -the peoples of Europe—or America. With -all their fun they love money, and never for<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132"></a>[132]</span>get -the necessity of having some in their old -age. Get off the Parisian boulevards, which -are spoiled by visitors, and you see the French, -pure and simple, though not so very pure and -not at all simple. They will bargain and -figure down to the “sou,” the popular coin, -worth two American cents. Every French -family figures on spending less than it makes, -and does it. There are practically no savings -banks and no one much has a bank account, -but as soon as a little money is saved -it is invested in government bonds or municipal -or railroad bonds, which bear four per -cent interest. Every family has government -bonds, and this habit of investing in securities -is the reason which makes France so great -and strong financially. The people pile their -savings into the government treasury, the -only bank they know. The family, which is -always small in France, must save for the -daughter’s dot, or she will never be married, -and for the last years of the parents’ lives. -There are practically no abjectly poor people -in France. It is not fashionable to be poor, -and French men and French women must be -fashionable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133"></a>[133]</span></p> - -<p>The Place de la Concorde is a wonderful -square, larger than a couple of our city blocks. -In the center is an obelisk, presented by -Mohammed Ali when he was viceroy of -Egypt and before the bargain sale of obelisks -took place. It is a block of red granite, 75 -feet high and covered with hieroglyphics -which tell the deeds of an Egyptian gentleman -named Rameses. The obelisk is surrounded -by large fountains with mermaids -and Tritons and dolphins spouting water into -lower basins. Around the square are statues -representing the eight principal cities of -France. Since the monuments were erected -one of these cities, Strassburg, has been taken -by the Germans. This was forty years ago, -but the monument still stands, and it is -draped in mourning. In any other country -the statue would have been quietly removed, -but the French are not built that way. -They hang their wreaths around Strassburg, -swear vengeance on the Germans, and have -a good time.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>This mourning habit is very popular in -Paris. The ladies who are called upon to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134"></a>[134]</span> -mourn do so with proper regard for appearances. -As near as I can figure it out the -death of a second cousin puts all the female -members of a family into deep black. A -mourning-gown with a very hobble skirt, -with the hoisery and millinery to match and -with plumes and décolleté neck to strengthen -the effect,—well, it does not detract from the -human interest one naturally takes at such -a time.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135"></a>[135]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Latin_Quarter">The Latin Quarter</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>, August 15.</p> - -<p>As everyone knows, the city of Paris is -cut into two parts by the river Seine, which -runs through it from east to west and with its -curves is about seven miles in length within -the town. The river is crossed by many -bridges, all stone and substantial, many ornamented -by statues. Little steamboats run -up and down like street cars, and the banks -are covered with massive stone walls. About -half-way through the city are two islands, one -called the Cité and the other the Isle of St. -Louis. The Cité is the most ancient part -of Paris, and was a town in the time of Cæsar. -The coming of Christianity was marked by -the erection of a church, and about the 12th -century by the present cathedral Notre-Dame, -one of the famous buildings in Europe, -but not one of the finest cathedrals. By this -time the city had spread out on the banks, -and the organization of France into a kingdom -with Paris as the capital was followed by<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136"></a>[136]</span> -a removal of the royal residence and of most -of the activities to the sides of the stream. -On the south side developed the university, -the artists’ studios, and eventually the military -establishments. Big business, the large -residences and industrial enterprises went to -the north bank. The Latin Quarter, as the -educational and artistic section is known, on -the south, while equipped with large stores, -palaces and public buildings, is a most interesting -and quaint place, and though still -Bohemian is very respectable, from a Parisian -viewpoint.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The University of Paris, the original part -of which was the Sorbonne, now an immense -structure, has about 15,000 students. It differs -from American universities in many respects. -There are no recitations. The instruction -is given by lectures, and a famous -authority on law, or philosophy or science, -can lecture to hundreds as easily as to a small -class. There are no dormitories, no fraternities, -no football clubs, no spring parties, -no classes, no sports, no colors, no badges, -none of the essential parts of American higher<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137"></a>[137]</span> -education. Students of any age or previous -training may enroll and become members of -the University, go to the lectures they desire, -or not go at all if they prefer. The public -can attend the lectures and the University -is open to women, though the proportion of -women students is not large. The most efficient -instruction and the greatest sources of -information are open to the students—if they -desire. The Sorbonne was erected in 1629 -by Cardinal Richelieu, and named for Robert -de Sorbonne, who started a school for the -education of poor boys in theology about -1250. It has been rebuilt and enlarged until -it is a vast pile 800 feet long and 300 feet -wide. This building houses the schools in -literature and science, the schools of law and -medicine occupying buildings near by.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Although the students at the University -of Paris do not have the fun in athletics and -society that the students do in the University -of Kansas, they have a good time in the -French way. The quarter is filled with cafés, -large and small, where students and artists -congregate and eat, drink and make merry.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138"></a>[138]</span> -The back room of the café is something of a -club, and discussions on art and science -mingle with the perfume of tobacco and fermented -grape-juice. While there is a lack -of co-eds there is no scarcity of ladies, who -constitute a part of the course taken by many -of the students, not leading to a degree, not -even to matrimony. All of this, which would -be regarded with horror in Lawrence, is quite -the thing in Paris and seems to work out most -satisfactorily to the University authorities, -for even the professors do not hesitate to -mingle with their students at the evening -sessions in the joints of the Latin Quarter. -The men take examinations and degrees and -go their way to promote the advancement of -learning, while the ladies stay and aid in the -instruction of the next generation of students. -The original of the old college story took -place in the Sorbonne. A father who had -graduated many years before came for a visit -with his son, who had matriculated as a student. -The son had gone to the same lodging-place -which his father had occupied in the -years gone by. The old man was recalling -his student days, looking over the familiar<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139"></a>[139]</span> -place, noticing the changes and the old scenes. -“The same old beamed ceiling, where I -carved my name, and here it is,” he exclaimed -with delight. “The same old view -from the window. The same old furniture—” -and just then the back door opened and a -dashing lady appeared. “Same old girl,” he -cried with rapture. The boy tried to explain -that she was a friend of a friend. “Same -old story,” was the happy comment, “Same -old game.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Near the Sorbonne is the Pantheon, originally -built for a church, in the shape of a -Greek cross, located on a hill which is the -highest place on the south side of the river, -and with a noble dome that can be seen for -many miles. This is a new building, having -been constructed in the eighteenth century. -It was dedicated to Saint Genevieve, the -patron saint of Paris. The revolution converted -it into a memorial temple and named -it the Pantheon. It has been a church a -couple of times since then, but is now not -used for religious purposes. It is the burying-place -of great Frenchmen. Here are<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140"></a>[140]</span> -buried Victor Hugo, Mirabeau, Rousseau, -Carnot, and others distinguished in literature -and statecraft. You can see the last resting-place -of these great men by securing an -order from the Government or by tipping -the custodian: the latter way I always find -the easiest and best. The Pantheon is beautifully -decorated, and the interior with Corinthian -columns and mural paintings is most -effective. If it makes any difference to these -men where they are buried they should be -glad, for it is the finest memorial building in -Europe.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>That leads me to a rather grave subject. -As a matter of fact, funerals are very important -events in France. Three or four directors -in black clothes and three-cornered -hats march ahead, and the hearse is heavily -draped. If the departed was a man of prominence -there are a number of orations delivered, -the crowd goes away excited over the -condition of the republic, and is likely to -break windows and show its feeling toward -the political opponents of the deceased. When -Zola was buried a hundred thousand people<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141"></a>[141]</span> -marched in the procession, and there were a -number of street fights and duels as a climax.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>But the biggest thing in the Latin Quarter -so far as American tourists are concerned is -the Bon Marché, I suppose the largest retail -general store in the world. In most ways it -is like our department stores, and announces -that it has made its success by reason of faithful -dealings with the public and by advertising. -It has been running about fifty years; -the original proprietor is dead, but the business -moves on smoothly. The corporation -has a method of division of profits among -employés who have been with the store more -than ten years. It also pensions its old employés, -provides lectures and amusements for -its workers, and has a paternal and cöoperative -side that is interesting, although the -corporation is in fact controlled by a few -heavy stockholders.</p> - -<p>Somehow I had the idea that our own country -was the leader in the big department store -business. But the Bon Marché and others -in Paris took the idea out of me. It has many -clerks who speak foreign languages, and it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142"></a>[142]</span> -is said that a native of Timbuctoo or Arkansas -could slip into the store and find some one -who could speak his language.</p> - -<p>The clerks in the Bon Marché get from $3 -to $6 a week, with the exception of a few who -have special qualifications. So I guess the -old-age pension business is necessary. That -is the ordinary wage paid store clerks in -Paris.</p> - -<p>It was at the Bon Marché that the ancient -joke happened to me. I was looking at a -price-mark, and, not understanding the figure, -inquired in my pigeon French, “Est sees [6] -auter set? [7].” The clerk answered “It is -six.”</p> - -<p>My French is a joke. From necessity I -have learned enough French words to order -a meal, buy a ticket and ask how much. I -have found that a good bluff, plenty of signs -and the throwing in of French and German -words on the subject generally get about -what I want. But often I fall down. The -word for potatoes in French is “pommes.” -I told a waiter I wanted “fried pommes,” -and as the word for cold is “froid,” I got cold -potatoes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143"></a>[143]</span></p> - -<p>I went for a ride in the underground tube. -Bought my tickets and got onto a train I -knew was in the right direction. It stopped, -everybody got out, and the porter insisted -that I go too. I knew something was wrong, -and I tackled the platform boss with good -English. He couldn’t understand a word, so -he waved his hands and clawed the air and -talked French for a couple of minutes. Then -he tried to walk off, but I hung on. I was -away down below the surface of the ground -and didn’t even know straight up. “Correspond” -he kept saying, and I assured him -I would be glad to do so if he would give me -his address, but first I wanted to know where -I was “at.” I knew he was swearing, but -it was French swear and I didn’t mind. Finally -he took me by the arm and walked me -through a couple of passages and pointed to -another platform. A light broke in on me, -and I took the train which soon came. I -learned afterward that “correspond” is French -for <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144"></a>[144]</span>“transfer.”</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Boulevards_of_Paris">The Boulevards of Paris</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>, August 18.</p> - -<p>The boulevards of Paris are one of the -wonders of the world. Strictly speaking there -are a number of broad avenues which are -called boulevards, but usually “the boulevards” -is a phrase which means the one long -wide boulevard extending for several miles, -from near the Place de la Concorde to the -Place de la Bastille, built in a semi-circle on -the north of the old city and on the fortifications -which defended the city in the Middle -Ages. Of course later walls and fortifications -were built farther out, and the “grand boulevards” -are through the heart of the present -Paris. The boulevard—for it is one continuous -highway—changes its name every few blocks, -a fact that is characteristically French and -somewhat confusing to the stranger. The beginning -is a short distance from the Place de -la Concorde at the church of the Madeleine, -the fashionable church of Paris. The building -is in the style of a Roman temple, and has an<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145"></a>[145]</span> -imposing colonnade of Corinthian columns. -The interior decorations are very good, and -include a large fresco above the altar in which -Christ, Napoleon and Pope Pius the Seventh -are classified more or less together. The boulevard -is called The Madeleine for about 200 -yards, when the name changes to the Capucines -and sticks for a couple of blocks until -the grand opera house is reached. Along this -short stretch are some of the wildest music -halls and the greatest cafés of the world. The -greatest is the Café de la Paix, where everybody -who visits Paris goes for at least one -drink of ginger ale or cold coffee.</p> - -<p>The Opera is the largest theatre in the -world, covering about three acres. The site -alone cost $2,000,000 and the building over -$7,000,000. The materials are marble and -costly stone, and there are statues of Poetry, -Music, Drama, Dance, with other figures, medallions -and allegorical statuary until your -head swims. The front of the roof is sculptured -with gilded masks and with collossal -groups representing Music and Poetry attended -by the Muses and Goddesses of Fame. -Apollo with a golden lyre and two Pegasuses<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146"></a>[146]</span> -occupy the dome. The interior has a grand -staircase of marble with a rail of onyx, and -the rest of the interior is be-columned and be-frescoed -to match. It is the most beautiful -building in Paris, and could hardly be surpassed -if the attempt were made regardless -of expense. I would not try a detailed description, -for it would not convey the real -effect, best described by the word gorgeous.</p> - -<p>From the Opera a street runs southerly -called the Avenue de l’Opera, the great shopping -street of Paris, and at another angle goes -the Street de la Paix, where the most expensive -jewelry stores and millinery establishments are -located. The name of this street is properly -pronounced de la Pay.</p> - -<p>But the Boulevard continues, no longer the -Capucines, but the Italiens. Some years ago -this was the great shopping-place, and it is -not bad now. As the ladies promenade past -the Opera and into the Italiens, the skirts -unconsciously go a little higher. The boulevard -proceeds, the next section being called -the Montmartre. This part interested me a -great deal. On the rue Montmartre, a side -street to the right, is the Y. M. C. A., and on<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147"></a>[147]</span> -Mt. Montmartre, a little to the left, is the -Moulin Rouge.</p> - -<p>The Y. M. C. A. in Paris is one of the best -things in the city, but it does not get much -newspaper notoriety. It is an English-speaking -organization, with convenient quarters, -parlor, reception, billiard, smoking-and dining-rooms. -It is one place in Paris where -there is no café or bar, and it is a great help -to young men from America who are in this -city by reason of their business or to study or -to visit the historic places. A great many use -the Y. M. C. A. facilities, and a membership -card from Hutchinson or any other association -in the world is good for these privileges -in the heart of Paris. I would recommend to -every American that when he goes to Paris -he make his headquarters at the Y. M. C. A., -but I am not going to count on many of them -doing it. The Paris atmosphere has the same -effect on a Y. M. C. A. that a nice, warm -August sun has on a cake of ice left on the -sidewalk in Hutchinson. I am not telling what -I would like to, but I setting down the facts -as they appear to me. The man who goes to -Paris and sticks to the Y. M. C. A. as his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148"></a>[148]</span> -loafing-place should have his halo ordered at -once. He has a cinch.</p> - -<p>In the other direction, on Mt. Montmartre, -is the Moulin Rouge. I do not recommend it -to nervous men, but it is one of the sights of -this city. When I was a boy I read somewhere -about a “gilded palace of sin,” and now I know -what that means. The cowboys out west used -to have what they called “free-and-easies,” -but the Moulin Rouge is not free. I shut my -eyes as the dancers loped by until a friend -said the next dance would be a quadrille. I -once danced quadrilles myself, and I thought -there would be a breathing-place. The young -people arranged themselves as if they were -going to dance a Virginia Reel, and I could -feel consciousness returning. The music -struck up and the quadrille began. At first -it went as smooth as if it were at the Country -Club. Then each young lady passed the toe -of her right foot over the head of her partner. -Then she turned and pointed the toe of her -left foot at the chandelier which hung from -the ceiling. And then came the most wonderful -display of things that are put in the store -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149"></a>[149]</span>windows at home and marked “white goods -sale,” or “lingerie.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_fp148.jpg" alt="" width="416" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">THE PLAIN QUADRILLE AT THE MOULIN ROUGE</span></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<p>It was dreadfully embarrassing to me, as it -must have been to any other Kansas man -present, but I braced myself, for I knew the -worst was yet to come. I felt like getting right -up on my chair and saying, “Ladies, there are -gentlemen present.” But I didn’t, and I have -been glad ever since, for they might not have -understood English and thought I wanted a -partner for the next quadrille.</p> - -<p>Afterwards the proceedings became almost -immodest.</p> - -<p>So I do not recommend the Moulin Rouge, -though I fear that this failure on my part will -not detract from the rush of strangers who are -visiting in Paris and who might go to the -Y. M. C. A. But I will say in passing that it -is no place for a man unless his wife is with -him, and it is somewhat distracting even then.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Returning to the boulevard. It changes its -name to the Poissoniere, and on this part is -the office of the <em>Matin</em>, the great newspaper, -which has 750,000 circulation, prints only six<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150"></a>[150]</span> -pages, and pretends not to care for advertising. -The <em>Matin</em> differs from most Parisian -newspapers in really printing news. The -general run of papers here are purely political, -and put their editorials on the front page. -They are very abusive, and the editor has to -fight frequent duels. The fighting is done with -pistols at a safe distance, and after an exchange -of shots with nobody hurt, the principals -rush together and clinch, but it is to kiss -each other on both cheeks and rejoice that -Honor has been Satisfied. I wouldn’t mind the -dueling, but I positively would not kiss these -Frenchmen, and so far as I can learn the -society editresses do not duel.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The <em>Matin</em> is the paper that cleared Dreyfus -after his trial and conviction a few years ago. -The story is interesting. Dreyfus was made -the victim of a conspiracy, and a document -showing details of the French army was attributed -to him as a German spy. Everybody -remembers the trial and the fuss at the time. -It became a contest between the Honor of the -French Army and Dreyfus. The <em>Matin</em> took -little part, but, like most of the French, sided<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151"></a>[151]</span> -with the army. One evening at a dinner an -officer of the court exhibited the original of -the document which Dreyfus had been convicted -of writing. Mr. Bueno-Varilla, editor -of the <em>Matin</em>, was present, and as the paper -was passed around he looked at it carelessly. -That night when he reached home he remembered -that a few years before this same -Dreyfus had written him a letter about some -engineering, and he dug up the letter. The -handwriting was not at all what he had seen -that evening. He rushed to the telephone and -got the official who had shown the document, -who promised to bring it to him in the morning. -They compared the spy information and -the Dreyfus letter which Bueno-Varilla had, -and they were utterly unlike. Next day the -<em>Matin</em> printed a photograph copy of the document, -and appealed to anyone who knew the -handwriting to advise the <em>Matin</em>. In a day or -two a gentleman wrote and said it was the -writing of a drunken bankrupt army officer, -named Esterhazey, inclosing letters from the -latter which proved it. Dreyfus was brought -back from prison and pardoned, Esterhazey -skipped the country, and the honor of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152"></a>[152]</span> -French army was flyspecked. All of this because -Bueno-Varilla happened to keep an old -letter, and because he owned the <em>Matin</em>.</p> - -<p>The boulevard next becomes the Bonne-Nouvelle, -and then St. Denis and then St. -Martin, and has several other names before -it reaches its end in the Place de la Bastille.</p> - -<p>This place is even more important in French -history than Independence Hall in ours. The -14th of July is celebrated every year, just as -we do the 4th of July as Independence Day, -because on that date in 1789 the Bastille -prison was destroyed by an uprising of the -people which became the French Revolution. -The Bastille was especially odious because -political prisoners were confined there, and -it only took an order from the police to send -a man or woman to its dungeons. Its use for -this purpose was so flagrant and so despotic -that the first fury of the revolution was directed -against its walls, and it was entirely -destroyed, and the jailers and soldiers defending -it were killed. The place is now a large -square surrounded by business houses and -ornamented by a statue of Liberty on a -column 150 feet high. From the beginning to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153"></a>[153]</span> -the end of this great boulevard with the many -names, are places made historic by great men -and hard fights. Now it is a peaceful, broad -avenue, with shops and cafés and handsome -buildings, the promenade-ground for the Parisian -and of tourists from all countries.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154"></a>[154]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Some_French_Ways">Some French Ways</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>, August 20.</p> - -<p>There are practically no athletic sports in -France, none at all in and around Paris. In -America the men put in a lot of time talking -baseball, football, boating and such-like. In -France the men talk only politics or gossip. -There are no lodges and no clubs in France. -This ought to be applauded by the women, but -as a matter of fact they probably wish the men -would do a little something in that line. There -is a secret order or two, but they are not strong -and not recognized by the orders in other -countries. Frenchmen do not seem to care for -athletics of any kind. The nearest approach -to it is fencing, and the young Frenchman -learns to use the sword so he can fight duels. -The popular Hero is not a ball-player nor a -prize-fighter, but a man who has invented -something new or who has run off with the -wife of a friend. They are venturesome and -personally brave, but they can’t stand for -team work. The attempt has been made to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155"></a>[155]</span> -introduce a mild form of football, but every -man on the team wanted to be the star. I -suppose if the French should organize a baseball -club every one of them would insist on -being pitcher. They will go up in balloons or -airships with dashing recklessness and are -brave enough, if that trait is not merely the -absence of caution and calculation. French -aviators are numerous and successful, though -the fatalities are still many. They have shown -themselves good fighters but not good losers. -They will quarrel over a trifle and then forgive -and kiss each other in a manner that -makes an American seasick. They are polite -in a veneer, for they will lift their hats and -make goo-goo eyes at every pretty woman, -and they will let an old woman stand up in a -street car. They are industrious, thrifty, temperate, -and cheerful. Just because they look -at some things from a different viewpoint is no -reason why we should criticize them, and yet -they are so different from the neighbors that -I can’t help mentioning a few things that are -very noticeable.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The French Government has a president, -whose name few people know, and a senate<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156"></a>[156]</span> -which has little power, and therefore the main -factor is the lower house. This kind of government -is a mistake, for the large legislative -body rushes from one extreme to another; -whenever its majority changes, the cabinet -resigns, and the result is inconstancy and instability. -Public sentiment is the controlling -factor, and it takes an acrobat to be a statesman -in France. Sometimes the flippety-flop -is popular in America, but on the long run he -loses. In France he is succeeded by another -just as good.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The French are great lovers of art, and in the -Louvre they claim the largest collection of -pictures in the world. They looted Italy to -get them, but they have them. No living -artist has a picture in the Louvre. The fellows -now on earth have to hang their pictures in the -Salon or the Luxembourg or some other -gallery, a sort of artistic tryout, with the judging -done after they are no longer able to exert -any personal influence. I think modern art -is as good as ancient art, or better, except that -every modern picture is not art. And I may -add that in the Paris Salon the pictures<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157"></a>[157]</span> -painted by the artists of today have just as -good color, better drawing and just as few -clothes as the works of the old masters in the -Louvre. I get along right well with the old -masters until they paint Mary de Medici and -Mary the mother of Christ sitting and talking -together, and then I want to go outside and -say a few things.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>But while Paris is important in the world, -politically, historically, and artistically, its -great distinction nowadays is in millinery and -dressmaking. The women go to Paris to shop, -and the men go on account of the women. -The men of Paris are about the worst dressers -in the world. The women are the best. The -Parisienne has the natural ability to take a -hat and stick a feather in it so the effect is -brilliant. She can wear a dress that costs -much less than the gown of an English woman -or an American woman, and she can look -stylish when the other women have hard -work to look decent. The American woman is -second, and in a few respects, like shoes and -gloves, she can beat the French; but take it -all around, and the world removes its hat to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158"></a>[158]</span> -the French milliner. Of course the milliner -is often a man, but he has to have his Parisian -model or he would fail. Let M. Worth or -any of the other Monsieurs who dictate styles -in feminine attire go to London and he would -be a second-rater at once. This is true, -whether you want to believe it or not, and the -doubter need only spend a few days on the -Paris boulevards to be convinced.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>There may be some who think that the -latest development in costumes, the hobble -skirt, has reached America. They are mistaken. -No real French hobble skirt could go -down the street of an American city without -starting a riot. When one does get to the -territory of the Stars and Stripes the railroads -will run excursion trains. The first day or -two in Paris I was nervous about this style -of gown. When I saw a saucy French lady -in a dress which looked as if it was put on by -a glove-fitter, I felt that I ought to blush and -look at the statuary. I was told by the best -feminine authority with me that in order to -wear one of those skirts it was necessary to -discard any wearing apparel which is usually<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159"></a>[159]</span> -beneath the female skirt. The poor, pretty -things would go along the street like boys in a -sack-race trying to walk, and by a slit up one -side which was not buttoned for several feet -from the bottom, a little motion was secured. -But when the lady crossed the street, or when -she climbed to the top of a bus or even stepped -into a cab, it was necessary in order that she -maintain appearances that there be not even -a hole in her stocking above the knee. Of -course I do not speak from personal observation. -Far be it from me to watch a lady cross -the street or climb into a vehicle. But I -knew how it must be from a careless study of -the environment, and my theory was confirmed -by the evidence of all those who did -not hide their eyes or observe the scenery. -And I will add that it is extremely difficult -to keep the blinders on while seeing the sights.</p> - -<p>I only speak of these matters because they -are much more in evidence in Paris than are -the Statue of Liberty, or the Column of Vendôme, -or any of the great places that the -guide-books tell about.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The French are delightfully “natural” -about many things. It is quite the proper<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160"></a>[160]</span> -thing for a man and woman to hug and kiss -each other in public. At first this startled -me and I felt that perhaps they were excited. -But no, it is just the proper way to manifest -their feelings at the time. Just imagine how -it would be if the Frenchman across the table -from you put his arm around the lady next to -him and she snuggled up to him and patted -his cheek with her unengaged hand. I felt like -getting right up and saying, “Excuse me. Am -I intruding?” But I soon learned that they -didn’t mind us at all. Their idea of love is to -let go all holds and l-o-v-e. Their theory of -matrimony is that it is an arrangement based -on family position, business and prospects. -No young woman can get a husband unless -she has a dot, so much capital. The parents -arrange the matches, and usually do so carefully -and thoughtfully. The girl, who has -not even been allowed to go to school with the -boys, has no idea of any other arrangement; -and the man, who has never thought of -matrimony in another way, considers it a -part of his “career.”</p> - -<p>A man in France cannot marry without -the consent of his parents until he is 25 and a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161"></a>[161]</span> -woman not till she is 21. This law is strictly -obeyed, and there is no running off to some -other state where the rule is different. I suppose -French marriages arranged in this apparently -cold-blooded manner by the parents -turn out on the average as well as they would -if they let the young people rush in and -“marry for love.” But it doesn’t seem right -to us, any more than our ways seem good to -them. Of course a Frenchman does not insist -that his “sweetheart” shall have a “dot,” -so that kind of an arrangement is made by -the parties themselves. All of which seems -very wrong to English and Americans; and -yet the French prove it is the best way by -using the divorce figures, for divorce is practically -unknown in France. The French -woman is the business partner of her husband, -and necessity makes them pull together just -as they were taught to do from their youth up. -She doesn’t belong to clubs any more than -her husband does. She has a great deal of -liberty, and in fact is often the head of the -firm.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162"></a>[162]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="In_Dover_Town">In Dover Town</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Dover, England</span>, August 22.</p> - -<p>One of the strange things in this old world -is a boundary line. You are on a railway in -Germany, hearing no language but German. -The train crosses the imaginary line and you -hear an entirely different language, and if you -try to use the words which were understood -ten minutes before, the people do not understand -you. They are French, and they not -only speak a different language but they differ -in custom, tastes and looks. It would be just -like a traveler from Hutchinson to Kansas -City being able to speak and understand what -people said at Argentine, but on arrival at -the union depot in Kansas City finding a -different looking and different talking lot, who -could not understand a word he said. And -arriving in the Kansas City depot neither understanding -nor being understood, would be -something of an ordeal, especially if you were -trying to change trains and make a sharp -connection. It is no wonder that an ordinary<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163"></a>[163]</span> -Kansan traveling in this European land puts -in much of his time figuring out his route and -a lot more doing it.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Of course it is a joy to arrive in England -and be able to talk and to understand everything -that is said. Two hours after we left -the fish-smelly Boulogne I was quarreling in -right fair English with a railroad official because -a train was late. In France we would -have had to stand around and look pleasant, -for the official would not have known whether -we were cross about the train or the reciprocity -treaty. It often relieves your mind to tell a -Frenchman or a German what you think of -him or his country in English, but it doesn’t -cause him any discomfort.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Dover is a most interesting town, with a -castle, a harbor, a garrison, and a history. -It is the closest English port to France, and -on a clear day with good eyes and a vivid imagination -you can see Calais in France, 21 -miles away. Ever since William the Conqueror -came over and did his conquering, the -English have kept Dover fortified in such a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164"></a>[164]</span> -way that it would be difficult for another -conqueror to follow his example. The town -lies along the shore and back into a small -river valley. The hills, about 300 feet high, -begin at the water’s edge and go up very -rapidly. The biggest hill is on the east, and -rises straight up from the sea 375 feet. The -face of the cliff is white, for the rock formation -is chalk, and, topped with green trees and -a big stone castle, makes a fine appearance -from the water or from the beach. There is -not only this old castle, which is a fort with a -regiment of soldiers, but the cliff is mined and -tunneled, and big cannon are at the opening -in the earth, ready to shoot the stuffing out of -any hostile fleet or army which comes this -way. The only time the castle was ever -captured was when Cromwell worked some -strategem and got it away from the Royalists. -After looking it all over I don’t see how any -army could possibly capture Dover castle so -long as the defenders stayed awake.</p> - -<p>The Romans first built a fort here, and the -remains of the old Roman walls are still a -small part of the present fortifications. The -Saxons built some, then the Normans, and -after that various generations of English,—<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165"></a>[165]</span>so -that the castle contains specimens of a lot -of different styles of architecture. On the -whole it is one of the most imposing castles in -Europe, both by location and by construction.</p> - -<p>This castle business is peculiar. Sometimes -a little runt of a building with a tower and a -high fence is famous in history and story because -of a great fight, or a brilliant robber -who lived there. To the tourist it is a disappointment. -I suppose every one gets his -idea of what a castle looks like from the reading -done in his youth. When I was a boy I -thought a castle must be a good deal like the -court-house at Cottonwood Falls, which is 80 -feet high, with a mansard roof and a jail with -barred windows in the rear. Then I got a -larger idea, something like the Reformatory -at Hutchinson. And when I came to personally -see these ancient castles I have frequently -had to back up to my early theories. -Now I am an expert in castles, and can talk -of them without admitting to myself it is all -guess-work. When we started up the Rhine -from Bonn I occupied an unquestioned place -as an authority, for I had been in the great -castle country before. But this time my trip -was reversed. To an admiring company of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166"></a>[166]</span> -boat acquaintances I pointed out in the distance -a magnificent castle we were approaching. -I started to tell the legend of the castle, -when it became apparent that the structure -was a cement plant. Then I was more careful, -but soon located another, a really splendid -castle standing off a little from the river. I -would have gotten through all right if some -smart aleck had not butted in with the uncalled -for information that the building was a -brewery. But that is what a real castle looks -like, the Hutchinson Reformatory, a cement -plant, or a brewery, whichever comparison -comes easiest for you to understand.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Dover was one of the “Cinque Ports.” -Five little towns along the coast of the channel -had a sort of organization which was given -recognition by the government under the -early Norman kings. The towns were granted -privileges and relieved from burdens of taxation -in consideration of furnishing ships in -time of war. The principal work of a navy -at that time was to capture merchant vessels, -slug the crews and keep the cargoes; so the -towns prospered under the arrangement. It<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167"></a>[167]</span> -has been only a couple of hundred years since -there was a standing army or a royal navy. -When the king declared war he issued a call -and the lords and knights responded with -their men, and the army was formed for the -campaign. If any of the nobles got sore on the -king, they took their troops and went home. -A navy was raised in the same way, only by -the towns along the coast instead of by individuals. -Such an army and navy was not -satisfactory, but the English parliament refused -to furnish money for a standing army -until after the days of good Queen Anne, about -200 years ago. Now the English army is not -near as large as the armies on the continent, -but the English navy is kept twice the size -of any other navy in the world. Germany is -the country that England suspects as a possible -enemy. Germany and France are crossways -right now over which shall get the most -of Morocco, and England is bound to stand -by France in case of trouble. Morocco isn’t -worth anything to anybody, but it may cause -a terrible war between the most highly civilized -nations of Europe. And yet some people -are opposed to arbitration because of “na<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168"></a>[168]</span>tional -honor.” The opponents of arbitration -ought to come over to these poor countries -laboring under the weight of big armies and -navies, and see how people are suffering because -of the foolish feudal notion that the -way to decide which is right is to fight it out.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We ate our lunch today in a restaurant -which proudly boasts that its steps were the -place where David Copperfield rested during -his search for his aunt, Betsey Trotwood. -Little Dorrit lived at Dover, and the men and -women of Dickens land often visited or made -their homes in this quaint old seaport or in its -vicinity. Shut your eyes to the big cliff and -its imposing fortress, forget the harbor with -its ships and men of war, quit observing the -narrow streets and crooked lanes which run -up and down the side of the hill, and live with -the people that Dickens made so real that to -most of us they surely existed. That is Dover, -a different Dover from the red-coated, fish-smelling, -quaintly architectured place in which -people are buying and selling, and a Dover -which will live as long as the English language -is read.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169"></a>[169]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Old_Canterbury_Today">Old Canterbury Today</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Canterbury, England</span>, August 24.</p> - -<p>This little city of 25,000 inhabitants is the -ecclesiastical capital of England, and has been -for over a thousand years. Some time before -the year 600 Queen Bertha, wife of the Saxon -king, became a Christian and built a small -church in Canterbury. Then when St. Augustine -came in 597 and took the king and all -his army into the church at one big baptizing, -the king gave him the palace and the -heathen church, and they were converted into -a cathedral and monastery. St. Augustine -and succeeding archbishops were the heads -of the church in England, and when the Normans -came in 1066 they continued the rule. -The first Norman archbishop began the construction -of the present cathedral, and as -money was plenty and labor cheap, it was -built magnificently. The Archbishop of Canterbury -received the title of Primate of All -England, and he wears it to this day. The -English Church is a government institution,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170"></a>[170]</span> -the archbishop is a member of the House of -Lords, and the position is easily the greatest -in the Protestant world.</p> - -<p>The murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket, -in 1170, was the greatest thing that ever happened -for Canterbury. He was in a controversy -with King Henry, and made life so uncomfortable -for the king that Henry remarked -to some of his followers that if he -had a few real friends there would be no -Thomas Becket to worry him. Henry was -probably drunk when he made this talk, although -it doubtless was an expression of his -real feelings. Four of his knights took him -at his word, hiked to Canterbury, and killed -the archbishop right in the cathedral. The -murder was a shock to Christendom. The -dead archbishop was canonized as a saint, -and the people generally refused to believe -Henry’s statement that he didn’t mean what -he said. Everything went wrong with Henry, -and the sacrilegious act was held responsible. -Two years later the king went to Canterbury -and took a whipping on his bare back as a -penance for his remarks, and for years pilgrims -came to Canterbury, miracles were re<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171"></a>[171]</span>ported -wrought by the relics, and the cathedral -and Canterbury got rich from the pilgrim -business and the valuable gifts showered -upon the shrine of St. Thomas.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>It is customary to consider Thomas Becket -a martyr to the cause of liberty and to indulge -in great eulogy of him as a saint. But -he was really a plain man like the rest of us. -His trouble with the king came because Henry -wanted to recognize some other bishops, and -Thomas, who was proud and stubborn, -claimed that he alone had the power. It -was really a conflict of authority between -the church and the state, and a good deal to -be said on both sides. Thomas abused the -king viciously and had several bishops excommunicated -because they agreed with -Henry. He also threatened the king, and -the disagreement was all over jobs and money. -Those were tough times, and the usual way -to get rid of an enemy was to kill him if you -could. Unfortunately for Henry, his self-appointed -friends did a bungling job, Thomas -became a saint, and the king had to concede -to the church all the privileges that had been<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172"></a>[172]</span> -claimed. Three hundred years later King -Henry the Eighth, in order to secure a divorce -and a new queen, overthrew the authority of -the church, made himself the head of it, and -incidentally sent to Canterbury, took all the -valuables that had been placed on the shrine -of St. Thomas, and put them in the national -treasury, that is, his own pocket.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>But during that 300 years the supremacy -of Canterbury as the religious head of the -nation became fixed. The archbishops generally -had to go into politics, many of them -achieved greatness, and some were executed -publicly. The cathedral was added to, “restored,” -improved, and is now one of the very -finest cathedrals in Europe. To an Englishman -or an American it is more interesting -than any other church in England, except -perhaps Westminster Abbey. It has specimens -of all kinds of architecture in its different -parts, but they have been so harmoniously -put together that the edifice is imposing on -the outside and most impressive on the inside.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173"></a>[173]</span></p> - -<p>Canterbury itself is a sleepy old town, very -full of quaint houses and with plenty of tradition -to make things interesting. Chaucer, -Dickens, Thackeray and other English writers -have woven Canterbury into their stories, -and on every side you are shown the places -where heroes and heroines of fiction made -their homes. But this week Canterbury is -busy. The last game of the cricket season -is being played, and Canterbury is as crazy -over cricket as Hutchinson was over baseball -when in the Western Association. The cricket -association of England is made up of the counties, -and I had the opportunity of seeing the -game between Kent and Yorkshire. Fully -ten thousand people attended, and I suppose -they enjoyed the game, though English cricket -is as tame to an American as the moo of a -cow would seem to a roaring lion, or as spring-water -lemonade would taste to a colonel from -Kentucky. The game began at 10 o’clock -in the morning, with Yorkshire, the visiting -team, at the bat. At one o’clock the -Yorks were put out after making 75 runs. -Then there was lunch, and the crowd stayed -on the field and under the trees for what<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174"></a>[174]</span> -looked to me like a harvest home picnic in -Kansas. At 2 o’clock play was resumed, and -continued till 4 o’clock, when the game -stopped for the players and spectators to -have tea. Yes, tea! Imagine an American -ball game suspended for a half-hour while -the ball-players enjoyed tea and sandwiches! -It was too much for me. I saw the last half -of the first inning would not be ended in one -day, so I quit the cricketers and their tea -and went off to look at an old church, which -was more exciting.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>There are some peculiarities about cricket -when viewed from an American standpoint. -The association or league corresponds very -well to our National or American League. -A club of eleven men may be all professionals, -or, as is usually the case, some may be amateurs. -A professional is a player who is paid, -and on the score his name appears without -prefix, just “Brown.” But if he is an amateur -and plays without pay, his name is on -the score card “J. M. Brown, Esq.” He is -then called a “gentleman player.” The game -usually lasts two days. The side that is in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175"></a>[175]</span> -stays in until ten men are put out. The -pitcher or bowler tries to hit the wicket, three -little posts that stand like our baseball home -plate, and if he does, the batter is out. The -batter, or in English the batsman, defends -the “wicket,” and when he hits the ball far -enough runs to the other wicket, which is -located at the pitcher’s box. If he knocks a -fly and it is caught he is out, or if a fielder -gets the ball and hits the wicket while he is -running, he is out. Two batsmen are up at -a time, and a man may make a lot of runs. -I saw Woolley, the pride of Kent, score 56 -runs, and players often exceed the hundred -mark. If the game is not finished in three -days it is declared off.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The crowd was quiet and ladylike. Occasionally -they would applaud and say “Well -bowled, sir,” but they did not tell the umpire -he was rotten and they never urged the visiting -club to warm up another pitcher. Not a -word was said by the players, not a pop-bottle -was thrown, nobody was benched and -there was never a thought of such a thing. -The English are better sportsmen than we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176"></a>[176]</span> -are, and they applaud a good play by a visitor. -A man who tried to rattle the bowler -by screaming that his arm was glass, would -be arrested and probably hung.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Besides the cathedral, the quaint buildings -and the cricket, Canterbury also offered an -opportunity to see the moving pictures of the -Jeffries-Johnson prize fight in a theater next -to the church. Of course I did not go. I -told several Englishmen that in America we -considered these pictures degrading, and as -between the fight pictures and the cathedral -I preferred the cathedral. Besides, I had seen -the fight pictures before.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Another very interesting church in Canterbury -is St. Martin’s, a little one, but considered -the mother church of England. It -is said to be the one erected for Queen Bertha -before her Saxon husband, Ethelbert, was -converted. This was prior to 600. It is on -a foundation which was used for a Roman -temple. Within the church is a big stone -font said to have been used for the baptizing -of Ethelbert. There is little doubt but that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177"></a>[177]</span> -the history of St. Martin’s is clear and it is -the oldest Christian church in all England.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Associating with old cathedrals and Saxon -churches makes one feel a few thrills. Even -the inn where Chaucer put up his pilgrims -seems modern. But cricket and the prize-fight -pictures make up a sort of balance, and -second-hand shops with wonderful salesmen -bring one back to the 20th century. Canterbury -has a famous brewery which is better -patronized locally than is the cathedral, and -farmers are in town trying to get hop-pickers -just like Kansas farmers after hands in harvest-time. -If St. Thomas could come back -and see the automobiles running around his -old monastery, notice the electric lights in -the cathedral crypt, observe the American -tourists with their guide-books and their gall, -he would probably have some thrills himself.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178"></a>[178]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_English_Strike">The English Strike</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London</span>, August 28.</p> - -<p>There was a great strike of railway men in -England last week, the news of which was -sent over the world. As a subject of conversation -and discussion it has taken the -place of ordinary sights and tourist stunts. -A very large per cent of the railway employés -went out, there was rioting in several places, -the soldiers were called upon, there was almost -war in spots, and several people, innocent by-standers -usually, were killed. The government -secured a cessation of the strike by -getting men and managers to agree to submit -the differences to a national commission -and be bound by it—an agreement both sides -will break if it does not suit them. A railroad -strike is a most serious thing in England, -for in London and the manufacturing centers -the people depend on the railroads to bring -in their provisions, and as ice is almost unknown -very few shops have more than a day’s -supply of meats, fish and fresh eatables on<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179"></a>[179]</span> -hand. So the strike was pinching millions of -people who had no personal interest in its -result.</p> - -<p>If I were a railroad employé in England -I would strike, or at least I’d strike out for -America or some other land where a man has -a show. Railroad men are not well paid in -England, rather worse than other working-men. -Engineers, or drivers as they are called, -rarely get to exceed 30 to 35 shillings a week -(seven to nine dollars). Firemen, switch-men, -baggagemen, station-men, operators, -conductors and brakemen get from 20 shillings -to 35 shillings a week (five to nine dollars). -And yet both passenger fares and -freight charges are higher in England than in -Kansas. In discussing the subject with an -educated Englishman I complained that a -man with a family could not live on these -wages. “Yes, but they do,” he said; “but -the family doesn’t get meat every day—and -the family doesn’t need meat every day.” I -argued on, that a man can’t buy a home, or -save anything for trouble or old age. “That’s -true,” he said, “and it is unfortunate. But -his children won’t let him starve, and there<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180"></a>[180]</span> -is some light job he can do to help out. The -government is now preparing a plan for the -pensioning of old people. When that law is -working, a man won’t have to worry about -the future.”</p> - -<p>Which is a rotten theory. It merely means -that with the prospect of a pension of less -than two dollars a week an English laborer -can be kept working at the present low standard. -I am for the old-age pension, but I am -for the proper payment of a workingman while -he is at the age to enjoy life. This beautiful -England with its castles and palaces and picture -galleries and great history is far behind -every other nation in its treatment of the -workingman, and consequently England is -now sitting on a keg of dynamite which is -likely to explode. Once get it out of the -heads of the English workmen that they have -to submit to these things and these wages -because their fathers did, and that it is a -great blessing to have a king and lords, and -the English working-men will raise Hades -with the present political and social conditions -in merry England. It seems to me that the -time is not far distant when the explosion<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181"></a>[181]</span> -will take place. Only very skillful management -on the part of the English statesmen -and the very conservative habits of thought -of the English people prevented most serious -trouble last week.</p> - -<p>An English workman usually has a large -family, and the only way they can keep from -going hungry or to the poorhouse is for the -whole family to work and mother and children -earn money to put into the common treasury. -Meat, vegetables, fruit, everything to eat, -costs more in England than it does in Kansas. -Rent is less, but our workmen wouldn’t live -as these have to. Clothing is cheaper in -some respects and dearer in others. But the -item is small with an English workman. You -can see that after he pays rent and buys food -he has very little left for wearing apparel, so -father wears his suit until it is worn out, -mother gets along on second-hand clothing, -which is generally used, and the children have -a cheaper grade and little of it.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I am not knocking on the English. This -condition which seems so distressing to me is -a product of their conditions and is not the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182"></a>[182]</span> -deliberate purpose of the people. I think it -comes from the conservatism of the English -character, and also from the fact that the -English workman competes against the world. -English manufactures and commerce have -been built up because in England labor is intelligent, -high-class, and cheap. I can have -a tailor-made suit of clothes for twelve dollars -in London. That’s fine for me, but how -is it for the tailor? And it doesn’t help the -other English workingman, for he does not -have the twelve. On the other hand, the -ability of the American workman to buy has -brought it to pass that he can get just as good -a suit, better fitted and better looking, at a -Hutchinson clothing store for twelve to fifteen -dollars,—and he has the money and buys! -There is going to be some discussion of clothing -and the woolen schedule in the United -States, and I want to put in this testimony. -Before I left home I bought a suit in Hutchinson -for fifteen dollars. No English tailor-made -suit for that price looks near so well, -and the way it fits and hangs is complimented -by the English. The only kind of stuff that -is cheaper in England than with us is that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183"></a>[183]</span> -in which hand labor is employed. Women -buy laces because they are made by intelligent -working-women who are paid 25 to 50 -cents a day. Silk hats are cheaper, but the -same quality hat I buy at home cost me just -as much in London, and shirts, underwear, -sox, etc., are as expensive here as in Hutchinson. -I am told the same rule applies to -women’s clothes. Americans who come to -England and continue to live on the same -standard they do in America say that living -is more expensive here. Of course they can -have three or four servants for the same price -they paid the one hired girl at home, and can -pose as being “upper class.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I went to a barber shop, a first-class one. -I was shaved for a “tuppence” (four American -cents) and had my hair cut for a “trippence” -(six American cents). I gave the barber -a tip of a penny, for which he was very -thankful, and then I went out of the shop -growling at a country where I could get -shaved so cheaply and where a tailor-made -suit cost only $12. In this world of ours we -are so dependent on one another that you can’t<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184"></a>[184]</span> -cheapen one man without cheapening all the -rest. I asked the street-car conductor and -he told me he was paid five dollars a week—and -he has a family of six. The chamber-maid -at the hotel works for a dollar a week -and board. A good coachman or a house-man -gets one to two dollars a week and board. -A clerk in a store does well to beat five dollars -a week. How do they live? I don’t -know, but they do; but they have all heard -of America and Canada and Australia, and -would go there if they could raise the fare, or -if it were not for leaving family and home.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I am getting away from the strike subject. -I make myself unpopular with some of the -English, the wealthier people and their foot-men, -by insisting that the railroad men ought -to strike and ought to have their wages -doubled, when I have to pay more than two -cents a mile for a second-class fare, and about -twice as much for shipping freight as I would -in Kansas. And I always compare with Kansas, -a place most of them never heard of, -and I suppose they think I am describing a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185"></a>[185]</span> -fictitious land where the millennium has already -arrived.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We spent an afternoon at Richmond, where -high hills rise from the valley of the Thames -and the view of English farm and village, -river and forest, is one of the finest in the -world. Far away in the distance is Windsor -Castle, the favorite royal dwelling-place, the -Thames like a silver streak dotted with boats -and wooded islands, quaint towns with old -churches, and winding roads white with the -macadam of chalky stone, occasional tram-ways, -busses with the passengers on top, gardens -and orchards, little strips of pasture -with sheep and cows, fences of hedges and -ivy-covered walls,—all of these things are a -panorama which make the breath come fast, -the heart beat more rapidly. The ground -is historic, for it has been the living-place -and fighting-place of great men from the time -of the Saxons, and every town and hill is -like a page of English history. Beautiful -homes adorn the hillside and comfortable -inns offer entertainment to the traveler and -the visitor. It is a great picture, and artists<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186"></a>[186]</span> -have copied it onto their canvases. Turner -and Gainsborough lived here, and their pictures -of English scenery are more beautiful -than their conceptions of saints and their -portraits of sinners. Here is where good King -Edward, the most popular monarch England -has had in many years, came for a view and -a night out. In the road-house on the height -is the place where Lilly Langtry achieved fame -by slipping a chunk of ice down the back of -Edward’s princely neck.</p> - -<p>We had lunch at The Boar’s Head and took -tea at The Red Dog, two of the many taverns -which show the English taste in names -is just the same now as it was when Pickwick -traveled and motor cars were unknown.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187"></a>[187]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Englishman_the_Great">Englishman the Great</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London</span>, August 31.</p> - -<p>London is easily the capital of the world. -As much as every other large nation might -argue the question, there is general acceptance -of the fact that Great Britain is the -greatest force politically. The English navy, -superior in size and quality to any other two -navies, the English commerce which goes under -the English flag to the furthermost parts, -the great English colonies (almost independent -states) Canada and Australia, the rich -English possessions like India and South -Africa, the English “spheres of influence” -like Egypt and Persia, and the supremacy of -English capital and banking methods,—all of -these and the capable, self-possessed, educated -English manhood and womanhood have -made the power of Great Britain foremost -among the nations. And London is not only -the political capital of England and its dependencies, -but it is the capital in business, -books, art, fashion, science, and money. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188"></a>[188]</span> -wealth and the literature and the commerce -of the world depend on the judgment of London. -The very thought of the power thus -included is impressive. I walked down -Threadneedle street and Lombard street, each -about as large as an alley in Hutchinson, and -thought of the millions and millions of money -and capital which those plain buildings contained, -and of the power which the men within -them possessed. Then I thought of the eight -million people of London, moving around like -ants in a hill, and the size, the activity, and -the never-ending motion, brought most forcibly -to mind how insignificant is one man, -especially if he is from Kansas and doesn’t -know a soul in all that aggregation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_fp188.jpg" alt="" width="407" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">SEEING LONDON FROM THE OLD ENGLISH BUS</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>But there is one part of London in which -all English-speaking people have a part—the -London of history, of Dickens, Thackeray, -Johnson, Shakespeare and those men whose -names are living long after the money-lender -and the broker are forgotten. A little way -from the Bank and the bankers is the old -Curiosity Shop, the Cheshire Cheese, the -Cock, the Temple Courts, and hundreds of -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189"></a>[189]</span>names familiar to every reader of English -literature, and instead of being lonesome and -oppressed by the weight of the millions of -people and money, I felt that I had met old -friends, and that Little Dorrit, or David Copperfield, -or Samuel Johnson, or Pendennis, -or Oliver Twist or some other acquaintance -whom I knew very well was expected every -minute. That is the great beauty of being -an American in London, for all of the history -and literature that have centered here is ours -as well as our English cousins’.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The hansom cab and the old omnibus are -disappearing before the taxi and the motor-bus. -It is a shame, but the world will move -on. Every Englishman or traveler remembers -the London cab, with its two wheels and -hood-shaped carriage, and the driver up behind. -There are still a few, but the taxis are -faster, and the London cab horse will soon -be freed. So it is with the old bus, drawn by -two good horses and driven by an expert -driver who knew all of the history and romance -of the buildings along the route, and -who would impart said information with dec<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190"></a>[190]</span>orations -and embellishments to the traveler -with a sixpence. All of this so-called progress, -the motor cars and the wider streets, are -doubtless more efficient and more sanitary, -but they are not near so picturesque or interesting. -The taxicabs go through the London -crowds, the jam of vehicles and the congestion -of traffic at a speed that would not -be tolerated in a small town in Kansas. The -policeman stands on the corner and regulates -the moving mass, but apparently there is no -speed limit, only punishment for bad driving. -The motor-driver who runs over a man is -severely punished, and that makes him careful. -The rule works well, but not quite so -well as the one in Paris, which punishes the -pedestrian who gets in the way of the motor -car.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Next to the wages problem is the land problem -in England. Three or four men own half -the real estate in London. Their ancestors -got it in a fairly legitimate way when it was -outlying country, and now it is the heart of -a great city. The English law of heredity -keeps the estate together. The English land<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191"></a>[191]</span> -conditions are the worst I know of in any -nation in the world. The rich old dukes who -own so much of London cannot be pried loose -from their holdings, and the actual residents -cannot buy their homes or their business -houses. The proprietor usually leases for 99 -years, but every improvement goes to him -eventually; he will do nothing himself, and -the renter pays the taxes. On Piccadilly -street, in the center of the fashionable residence -and shop district, the Marquis of Landsup, -or some such title, has a park of twenty -acres which is surrounded by a high stone -wall. It is a pretty park, but the owner’s -family is there only a couple of months in -the year when the weather is cold and the -park is not usable. The rest of the time no -one but servants and caretakers occupy that -beautiful tract, with the city all around it. -And thousands and tens of thousands of -people are walking the streets or living in -miserable tenements. I suspect I’d be a Socialist -if I stayed long in London and thought -much about such things as this. With all -their brain and intellect the English statesmen -have not solved the land problem in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192"></a>[192]</span> -England, and they never will solve it until -they upset the table.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>It is a great thing to be able to speak the -language and not have to rely so much on -holding up your fingers and making faces. -We have been for so many weeks among the -Dutch and the French that it is a positive -pleasure to just listen to the conversation -around us and know that we can understand. -A little knowledge of a foreign tongue leads -to many mistakes. I heard a Frenchman in -a London hotel giving an account of his day’s -experience to an English lady. Among other -things he said he went to a linen store and -left an order for table linen, and added, “and -I will have my entrails on it.” Of course he -meant his initials, but he had been careless -with his dictionary. And yet it is very hard -for us to understand the ordinary London -cab-driver or workman. His accent is so -different that it is almost like another language. -And even an educated Englishman -will give you a direction like this: <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"></a>[193]</span>“Go to -the next turning on the left, bear a bit to the -right until you get to the top of the street.” -Which means in American go to the next -corner, turn to the left, then a little to the -right to the end of the street. I never can -understand why the English people generally -murder their language as they do. But perhaps -I am like the little American girl I met -in Germany. She had learned German at -home, and I asked her how she got along in -Berlin. “Not very well,” she said, “they -talk such bad German.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The transportation in the center of London -is confined entirely to busses and cabs. There -is too much traffic and the streets are too -narrow for street railways. In the outer parts -of the city a number of street cars, or “trams” -as they are called, are operated. Every bus -and every tram has seats on the roof, and they -are the choice seats on the vehicle. From one -of these top seats is the place to see London, -and the traveler has the advantage of not -only being able to note the sights on the pavement -and the walks, but he can look in the -second-story windows and see how people live. -There are no great skyscrapers in London, the -business houses usually being six stories or<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194"></a>[194]</span> -less in height. The residences are nearly always -three or four stories, and either built -flush to the street, with a garden or court in -the rear, or back from the street and the yard -inclosed by a high stone wall. The Englishman -goes on the old principle that an Englishman’s -house is his castle, and puts up -high walls between himself and his neighbors. -A front porch, or an open lawn in front of a -private house, would be regarded as freakish -or an evidence of insanity. On the other -hand, there are many public parks and pretty -green squares in London which are breathing-spots -for the congestion of humanity within -this great city.</p> - -<p>The “City of London” which has a Lord -Mayor is the little old city which is the hub -of the whole business. It is the section of the -banks and the great institutions of finance, -and is about the size of Hutchinson, but a -solid mass of stone structures and narrow -streets. Only about 30,000 people reside -there. The London of the present is London -County, covers about 900 square miles and -is therefore about the size of Reno county. -That is the area in which 8,000,000 people<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195"></a>[195]</span> -live. It is governed by a County Council, -elected by the taxpayers, which is a very -active body and is doing much to improve -the conditions. London has fine water and -visitors are even urged to drink it—something -new in Europe. Taxes, or “rates” as -they are called, are high, and include everything -from real estate and personal to income -tax and a stamp tax on receipts and drafts. -The great problem of improving a city is to -get the money without distressing the people. -It requires large sums to make and care for -parks, streets, schools, paving, water-works, -light, and the other things that the city must -have in order to be modern, healthful, and -comfortable. The citizens everywhere groan -under the weight of taxation, and yet they -should not if the money is properly spent. -These streets, police, schools, fire departments -and such are as necessary as the walls of our -homes, which also require money to build -and maintain. The certainty of death and -taxes is proverbial. There is no way to avoid -the former and the only way to dodge taxes -is to go to an uninhabited island and live -by yourself. And then if some other indi<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196"></a>[196]</span>vidual -comes along, the first thing the original -tax-dodger will do is to tax the other -fellow.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The ordinary English home has the front -room of the house for the dining-room. The -“drawing-room” is at the rear and the -kitchen quite a distance from the dining-room. -The drawing-room is used only on special -occasions and the dining-room is the family -living-room. The English are great home-makers, -and their houses are always well furnished -and look as if folks lived there. On the -continent the fashion is to go out for the evening -meal to restaurant or café, but the Englishman -comes home and stays there. The -table is spread with the family and intimate -friends around, and supper is served at 8 -o’clock or later. You see the Englishman has -already had three meals—breakfast, luncheon, -and tea; so the evening meal is late. To me -the most attractive part of English life is -that in the home. The Englishman gathers -his family about him, pulls down the blinds, -reads his newspaper and is in his castle, which -no lord or duke can enter without his consent.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197"></a>[197]</span> -This simple virtue of home-living is rare in -Europe, and in the family circle which gathers -at the table and at the altar the young Englishman -gets the habit of thought and manner -which marks him wherever he goes, and -which has made his country the greatest of -all the nations.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198"></a>[198]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_North_of_Ireland">The North of Ireland</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Londonderry, Ireland</span>, September 8.</p> - -<p>Crossing the Irish Sea from Fishguard in -southern Wales to Rosslare in southern Ireland, -I met a jolly Irishman from Cork. When -I told him I was going to the North of Ireland -he remonstrated. “Don’t do it, mon. Every -Irishman up there is a Scotchman!” But I -had seen the beautiful South of Ireland and -we had to come to Londonderry to take the -ship for home, so the warning of the Corker -was in vain. I found that he was right. Soon -after we left Dublin we came upon linen -factories and distilleries and Presbyterian -churches, people too busy to jolly a stranger, -and cannily seeking the surest way to a sixpence. -In the South of Ireland no one is too -busy to talk with the stranger and to tell him -all the legendary lore of the country, while -in the North one shrinks from stopping the -busy worker, even to ask him which way is -straight up. The people of both ends of Ireland -are pleasant and the American dollar is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199"></a>[199]</span> -greatly admired, but the process of extracting -it is painless, even pleasant, in Cork, while it -hurts enough to notice in Belfast. The South -is almost entirely agricultural and is social, -while the North is filled with factories and -notices not to allow your heads to stick out of -the windows. The people of the South are -poorer but happier; the people of the North -are busier and more worried in their looks. -The Irishman in the South smiles pleasantly -without an apparent thought of the money he -is going to make, the Irishman in the North -smiles after he gets the money.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>All of this Emerald isle is green, and picturesque -scenery with lakes and falls, glens -and fields, rugged coasts and beautiful beaches -is to be found from Queenstown to Portrush.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We stopped a day in Dublin, which is an -Irish city with a large tinge of English. It -was the capital of Ireland prior to the consolidation -of the Irish Parliament with that of -Great Britain, and may still be called so because -the Lord-Lieutenant Governor lives here -and has a sort of a court. There are about<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200"></a>[200]</span> -400,000 people, packed in too tightly and -with not enough work to keep many of them -in decent living and style. That is the trouble -in Ireland—one of their troubles, the lack of -opportunity for work. There is not much for -the energetic young Irishman to do but to -emigrate, and he goes to America or Canada -or Australia, or even to England, to get a job -and a chance. The land is nearly all owned by -men who do not live in Ireland, and is rented -to farmers who find that when they improve -their places it means a raise in rent. The new -land law which gives a man a sort of title to -his leased land, and makes a court of arbitration -as to rent and purchase, is improving -conditions in Ireland and they are better off -now in respect to land than they are in England, -except for the blight of absentee landlordism, -the system which takes the rent-money -and spends it in London or in Paris.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Dublin is perking up some on the prospect -of home rule, which would bring an Irish -legislature to Dublin and make the city a real -capital. But the prospect for home rule is -dubious. The Irish party holds the balance<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201"></a>[201]</span> -of power in the English Parliament and has -been allied with the Liberals in their reforms -and the dehorning of the House of Lords. -The Liberals have promised the Irish home -rule, and the leaders will try to fulfill the -promise, but they may find it hard work to -line up their followers, and let it go until another -general election. There are so many -other questions involved in English politics -that home rule may be lost in the shuffle, but -as the Irish are the best politicians in the -world they are looking forward to success after -a lovely fight.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The city of Belfast, a hundred miles north -of Dublin, is the center of the linen trade. -The English Parliament a couple of hundred -years ago prohibited the manufacture of wool -in Ireland because it competed with English -trade, but promoted the spinning of linen. -The climate is just right, labor is cheap, and -Irish linen is the best in the world. We visited -a linen mill, and also a cottage where the hand -looms were at work. The wages paid to good -hands are 50 to 75 cents a day. This would -be fair wages in Europe, but the work is not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202"></a>[202]</span> -always steady and many days are lost in -setting the patterns and fixing the looms. -The manager of the factory said that most of -his best men went to America—he himself -had two sons in New York. The wages here -will keep soul and body together if the body -is willing to get along on fish and potatoes. -But there is no outcome, no prospect of a -future which shall include a beefsteak once a -week. The manager had been in America and -he knew the difference. “Our workmen are all -right because they don’t know the luxuries -the American workman has, except by hearsay. -Of course if they once get the appetite -for meat and a new suit of clothes every year -they have to leave us. But a two-eyed beefsteak -makes a good meal.” A two-eyed beefsteak -is an Irish name for a herring.</p> - -<p>Belfast has great ship-building yards, next -to Glasgow the greatest in the world. It also -has large distilleries which supply England -and America. I am told that the consumption -of liquor is on the decrease in Ireland. I hope -so. But the distilleries keep building additions -and enlarging their plants.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203"></a>[203]</span></p> - -<p>Which recalls the old story of the Illinois -statesman who was a great drinker and was -ruining the prospect of a useful life. His -family and friends tried to stop him, but the -habit or disease could not be overcome. One -night a friend had him out for a walk, trying -to sober him up for important business the -next day. They passed a distillery and the -friend said: “John, what a fool you are to -try to drink all the whisky that is made. You -can’t do it. See that busy distillery with its -bright lights and throbbing engines. You -can’t beat it.” John looked, and then with -drunken dignity replied: “Perhaps you’re -right. But don you shee I’m making ’em -work nights?”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The drink problem is the hardest to solve -in Great Britain, England, Ireland and Scotland. -It is worse than the wage problem or -the land problem. In no other countries that -I have visited are the evils of booze so plainly -in evidence as in the British Isles. In Germany -the sight of the family in the beer garden -with their mugs of creamy liquid, their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204"></a>[204]</span> -good-nature and their temperance, does not -make an unpleasant impression. In France -and the southern countries, where wine is the -common beverage, one does not worry about -this custom. But in England, Ireland and -Scotland, where you see men and women -drunk in the streets and in the gutters, where -you see children ragged and barefooted, homes -cheerless and pauperism prevalent, all plainly -because of the drink, the sensibility of even -the most seasoned is shocked. Public-houses -with women behind the bars, open seven days -in the week and handing out the whisky which -temporarily exhilarates and then stupefies and -degrades, are one of the companion pictures -to the great buildings, wonderful achievements -and artistic developments which one -sees in every British town. The temperance -societies work hard, the government would -help if it dared, but the drinking, the suffering -and the pauperizing process goes on. -The distilleries are enlarging, and working -nights.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I talked this matter over with an intelligent -Irishman, and he agreed with me that if<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205"></a>[205]</span> -the drinking of liquor could be abolished it -would do away with nine-tenths of the poverty. -“But see these poor fellows and how -they work,” he said. “Saturday night comes, -and who can blame them for having a few -pleasant hours even if it is all imagination, -and even if they do go to work on blue Monday -with aching heads and a little tremble.”</p> - -<p>Which is very poor argument, for it does -not take in the dependent wives and children. -And the Saturday night drunk makes a poor -workman on Monday.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>On the northern coast of Ireland, near -Portrush and a number of beautiful summer -resorts, is the Giant’s Causeway. The origin -of this really wonderful freak of nature is -said by archæologists to be volcanic, and that -the Causeway, the adjoining cliffs and several -islands are products that came from a volcano -in the shape of burning lava, and were -then thrown into shape by later explosions -as the molten mass was cooling. The Causeway -is a formation like a pier extending into -the ocean and made up of 40,000 pillars (by -Irish count), each a separate column and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206"></a>[206]</span> -usually five-or six-sided. They are about -twenty feet long, twenty inches in diameter -and jointed like mason-work, or more like -a bamboo rod. The theory is that as the -lava cooled it cracked and shrunk. Perhaps -so. Nobody saw it.</p> - -<p>I prefer the Irish version, which is simpler -and easy to understand.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Fin MacCoul, the giant, was the champion -of Ireland. He had knocked out all rivals -and no one could stand in front of him for -a second round. He was as great a man in -Ireland as John L. Sullivan used to be in -Boston. Over in Scotland a certain Caledonia -giant boasted that he could lick any -man on earth, Irish preferred. He gave out -an interview to the newspapers, saying that -if it were not for the wetting he would cross -over and take the Irish championship from -Fin. After much of the usual mouth-work -between the champions, Fin got permission -from the king, constructed the Causeway -from Ireland to Scotland, and dared the Caledonian -to come across. The Scot was game, -and the match was pulled off without police<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207"></a>[207]</span> -interference, resulting in a victory for Fin, -who kindly allowed his beaten rival to settle -in Ireland and open a saloon. Ireland was -then, as it is now, the finest country in the -world, so the Scotchman lived happily ever -afterward. The Causeway gradually sank -into the sea, and all that is now in sight is -the Irish end and a few islands between it and -the Scottish coast.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The formation of the coast for several -miles each side of the Causeway is the same -volcanic rock, and it rises abruptly hundreds -of feet high from the sea. Caves and caverns -with arches and vaults and echoes, and -natural amphitheatres with the pipe organ -Fin used to play and the bathtub which he -used, are visited by the visitors who go out -upon the Atlantic in a row-boat. I have -seen Niagara and the Falls of the Rhine, and -the Garden of the Gods in Colorado, and a -few hundred more wonderful works of Nature -or of giants, and the Causeway is not -second to any of them.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Our last stop in Ireland is this town of -Londonderry, known in Ireland as <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208"></a>[208]</span>“Derry.” -The London end of the name was put on by -King James the First, who was so devoted -to his religion that he killed or exiled the -Catholic Irish in Ulster and Derry and gave -their lands to Protestant emigrants from England. -A few years later Cromwell finished -the job and got the name of “Thorough,” -because of his theory that the only good Irishman -was a dead Irishman. There were terrible -religious wars in Ireland for years, each -side getting even for outrages committed by -the other. One great event in the series -was the siege of Londonderry by an Irish -army under James the Second, who had been -run out of England by William of Orange. -James was about to enter the city with the -consent of the governor, when thirteen apprentice -boys banged down the portcullis, -closing the entrance. That started the fight, -and the people of Londonderry decided to -stand the siege. They repulsed the soldiers -and James tried to starve ’em out. The siege, -which began with no preparation for defense, -lasted seven months, and half the population -died of starvation. The people ate dogs and -cats and rats, a rat selling for three shillings.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209"></a>[209]</span> -At last an English fleet broke through the obstruction -in the river, and the remnant of the -people of Londonderry was saved.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Those were “good old times.” The Protestants -of Londonderry knew if they surrendered -they would meet the same fate that they had -accorded to the Catholics on the capture of -Irish towns, and there is hardly a town in -Ireland which cannot duplicate the story of -the siege of Londonderry. Those days are -gone, Irish and English have laid aside their -weapons, and except for St. Patrick’s Day or -the 12th of July, which is the anniversary of -the battle of the Boyne in which William defeated -James, there is hardly a broken head -in the country from religious causes.</p> - -<p>The walls still stand in Londonderry, and -some of the cannon of 1689 are mounted at -the old stand. But the walls are now a -promenade and the cannon are only relics. -A Protestant cathedral and a Catholic cathedral, -a Presbyterian college and a Catholic -college, are doing business side by side, and -all are doing good. Two steamship lines have -made Derry a regular stop on their way from<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210"></a>[210]</span> -Glasgow to America. The principal business -of the town is the manufacture of linen -and whisky, most of which is exported to the -United States. And Irishmen from the North -of the isle, who want an opportunity and a -chance, come to Derry on their way to the -best land of all, discovered by the Spanish, -developed by the English, and ruled generally -by the Irish, known and loved as home -now by more Irish than are in Ireland, the -U. S. A.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211"></a>[211]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Scotland_and_the_Scotch">Scotland and the Scotch</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Glasgow, Scotland</span>, September 7.</p> - -<p>Scotland is one of the oldest countries of the -civilized world. Although it is now united -with England and is a part of Great Britain, -up to two hundred years ago it had nothing -to do with the English except to fight -them. The original inhabitants were Celts, -and came into history as Picts and Scots, who -held possession of the northern part of the -country when the Romans conquered England. -After the Romans went away the -Saxons arrived and practically wiped out all -the old Britons in England, but made no headway -against the Caledonians or “people of -the hills,” as they called the residents of the -north. About the ninth century the various -tribes were gotten together under one chief -or king, and from that time until the union of -England and Scotland in 1706 the chief occupation -of the Scotch was to fight the English, -who were always trying to conquer Scotland, -but never succeeding. The Scotch and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212"></a>[212]</span> -the English were of different race, language, -customs and habits. Much of Scotland, the -Highlands, has little room for agriculture, and -the people lived a roving life, raising a few -sheep and oats, and, whenever they felt like -it, making a raid into the Lowlands and into -England and bringing back cattle and supplies -to last them until the next raid. They were -converted to Christianity, but their idea of -morality never included an injunction against -killing the Lowlander and running off his -herd. War was the name under which nations -concealed their crimes of robbery, and the -Highlanders of Scotland had war all the -time; so they were officially justified. When -you analyze their romantic history and the -great deeds of their heroes you will always -find that no matter how strict their character -and honor among themselves, they never considered -it anything but a praiseworthy action -to kill and rob an Englishman. The reformation -by John Knox and his contemporaries -filled the Scottish heads with religious enthusiasm -and devotion, but it did not interfere -with the Scottish theory that the English -were the natural enemy who must always be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213"></a>[213]</span> -fought. And the English, on their side, reciprocated -the regard in which they were held -by the Scotch, and every king of England who -had a chance put in his time trying to conquer -the clansmen. Often the English would defeat -the Scotch armies and capture their -chiefs, but they couldn’t any more hold the -Scotch territory than they could hold the red-hot -end of a poker.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>When Elizabeth, Queen of England, died, -the next heir to the English throne was the -son of Mary, Queen of Scots, then reigning as -James the Sixth, King of Scotland. He was -not only the heir, but he was a Protestant, -and was, therefore, acceptable, and he was -duly crowned as James the First of England. -Of course, he went to London to reside, and -from that time to the present England and -Scotland have had the same king, although it -was 100 years later before there was any union -of the two governments. In 1706 the Scottish -Parliament adopted the act of union, the majority -being secured by shameful and open -bribery and against the protests of the Scottish -people, who did not want to be the tail<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214"></a>[214]</span> -of the English kite. But the union resulted -very beneficially to Scotland, as it changed -the occupation from war to commerce and -from raising hell to raising sheep. The natural -shrewdness of the Celt was stimulated by the -industry required in a country where hard -work is necessary, and all over the world -Scotchmen are known for their ability, their -keenness in argument, their thrift and their -success. Scotland is as far north as Labrador -and Hudson Bay. It has a short growing -season and very little fertile soil. I am -wearing an overcoat and shivering with cold. -That kind of a country raises sturdy and -energetic people.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>It has rained every day and nearly all the -time since we arrived. The Scotch do not -seem to mind the wet, but go about their -business, clad in rough, warm clothing. I had -quite a talk with a bright old Scotchman, and, -after I had admitted—just as well give in to a -Scotchman without argument—that Scotland -was the most beautiful country on earth, I -started a diversion by asking him if it rained -all the time in Scotland. In very broad dia<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215"></a>[215]</span>lect -he said he would tell us a story that would -answer the question. A ship arrived off the -Scotch coast, and, as it was raining, the captain -decided to delay landing until the storm -was over. He waited three weeks before the -rain stopped, but finally the sun came out -and he put for the shore. Just as he climbed -onto the land the sky darkened and the rain -began to fall again. Of a Scotch lad standing -by, the captain asked: “Does it rain all the -time in Scotland?”</p> - -<p>“Naw,” said the lad; “sometimes it -snaws.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The agricultural products of Scotland are -oats, grass, barley, and a little wheat. The -farms are generally small and the soil poor, -and the great industry is the raising of sheep. -In the manufacturing towns the wool is made -into cloth. The chief industry, aside from -this, is the distillery, and a great deal of the -product is consumed at home. The people -are poor, and there is little chance for them to -improve their condition and stay in Scotland. -The land is owned by big landlords, and hundreds -of square miles are kept for hunting by<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216"></a>[216]</span> -the proprietors of the estates. Work as hard -as he may, the Scotch tenant farmer has very -little ahead of him except poverty and heaven. -The tourists bring a good deal of money to the -country, and are separated from it in every -way the canny Scot can devise. But in spite -of poverty and notwithstanding the evil of -intemperance, there is no doubt of the natural -brightness of the Scotch.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I had heard all my life of the Scotch heather, -and it is one thing in which I was not disappointed. -The Scotch moor, which is something -between a barren field and a swamp, will raise -nothing else, and most of Scotland is moor. -Heather is like a weed cedar, if there could be -such a thing, and at this season, when it is in -bloom, covers the ground with a mat of blue. -There is also a white heather, which is rare -and to find which is good luck. I was very -fortunate, for I picked a bunch of white -heather the first attempt. I picked it from -a lad for a penny, and I recommend that way -of hunting for the white kind. But the blue -heather is everywhere, as buffalo-grass used -to be on western prairies. Heather is good<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217"></a>[217]</span> -for nothing, except as a flower, and it will not -grow anywhere but in Scotland. It is like -the hills and woods and lakes of this country-fair -to look upon but not convertible into -cash. It is worn by the people, and a man is -hardly dressed up unless he has a bunch in his -cap or his button-hole. The shamrock will -not grow except in Ireland and the heather -only in Scotland, and each is held in loving -affection by the people of the country because -of its constancy and patriotism.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The Scotch have a way of making oatmeal -porridge that justifies its reputation. But I -tried the “haggis,” and once was enough. I -do not know what the component elements of -Scotch “haggis” may be, but I suspect that -they are the remnants of the last meal minced -together, with oatmeal and sheep-blood added -to make them palatable. The Scotch people -are not high livers. Whatever cannot be -made out of oats and mutton is too high-priced -for the ordinary citizen. The farm-house -is generally divided by a solid wall, the -family on one side and the cows and sheep -on the other. The people of Scotland always<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218"></a>[218]</span> -have been poor, and they are not ashamed of -it; but they consider it disgraceful to be -ignorant or irreligious, so they have as good -schools and churches as can be found anywhere -outside of America. The men no -longer go around with guns and plaids, calling -themselves by the names of their clans, but -there is much family pride, and the traditions -of the good old times of murder and robbery -are kept in mind. The English language has -taken the place of the old Gaelic for general -use, but the English as spoken in Scotland is -only about second cousin to the English -language as known in Kansas.</p> - -<p>Walter Scott wrote the history of Scotland -for the world, and it is very fortunate for the -clansmen that he did. Scott had a picturesque -way of dressing up the costume and character -of a dirty highwayman so that he would appear -to be the soul of honor and the pride of -chivalry. He has given some of the kings -and dukes, who committed every crime from -arson to murder, the reputation and standing -of good and respectable citizens. His historical -novels, in so far as their description -of royal character is concerned, have the merit<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219"></a>[219]</span> -of beauty and interest, but not of truth. The -Scots were fierce fighters, and in the days -when war meant conquest and conquest -meant pillage the Scots were unexcelled in all -lines. Now that the world is putting up a -different standard for success we find the -Scotchmen adapting themselves to modern -ideas; and in science, invention, law and commerce -they can show down with any lot of -people twice their size on earth. They are -proud of their country, and can recite its -legends and its poems of Burns even if they -are so poor that they don’t have a square meal -a day. They love to argue, state their views -positively, contradict flatly, and do not object -to taking as good as they send. They are not -polite like the Germans, insinuating like the -French, or reserved like the English. They -are abrupt and inconsiderate, though kind-hearted -and helpful, proud and poor, quick-witted -and industrious. If they had any -other country’s natural advantages they would -own the earth.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220"></a>[220]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Land_of_Burns">The Land of Burns</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Ayr, Scotland</span>, September 9.</p> - -<p>Today we have spent in Ayr, the village -which bases a claim on fame because in a -humble little cottage, just outside its limits, -Robert Burns, the great Scottish poet, was -born. I call Burns “the great Scottish poet” -because it is right that his beloved country -should be linked with his name, but, as a -matter of fact, Burns is the poet of humanity -in every land and every clime. His writings -jingle like a familiar song, his thoughts are -the thoughts we all think but cannot express, -and his music touches the heartstrings like -recollections of childhood, a letter from home, -or the memory of those who are dear and -away. Burns wrote in rhyme the thoughts -that came themselves and not thoughts he -had worked up for the occasion. A child of -poverty himself, he was neither blinded to its -troubles nor overcome by its restrictions, and -he tells us of the joys and pleasures, the griefs -and sorrows of the people. He puts epigrams<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221"></a>[221]</span> -into verse and he tells of things as they are, -looking through the shams and deceits and -making good-natured fun of weakness and -folly. He never gets away from the human -interest and he never fails in knowledge of -human nature.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Burns’s father was a farmer, and not a very -successful one. He spelled his name Burness, -but for some unknown reason the poet shortened -it. The father was an honest and religious -man who was highly respected, but -never made good in a business way. His -mother was brighter, and used to sing Scotch -songs and ballads, and if there is anything in -heredity Robert got his poetic instincts from -that side of the house. They were trying to -make a nursery pay when Robert was born, -and I visited the cottage where that event -took place. One end of the shanty with three -rooms was for the family and the other with -two rooms was for the cattle. The Burnses -failed in the nursery business, and rented a -small farm near by, on which Robert spent -his boyhood days, not far from the taverns -in Ayr and Irvine, where he learned how to be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_222"></a>[222]</span> -a “good fellow” and thus shortened his life. -He was 15 years old when he wrote his first -verses, and was helping on the farm and going -to school. After the father died Robert and -his brother tried to run the farm, but the poet -got discouraged, and decided to emigrate to -Jamaica. A publisher printed his poems, and -he intended to take the money he received for -them to pay his passage. But the book made -a hit from the start, a second edition was -called for, and Burns at once attained great -popularity. He gave up the idea of leaving -Scotland, and put in most of the remainder of -his days writing, besides holding a small job -which his friends got for him, in the revenue -service. He bought a farm near Dumfries, -and lived there and in the town the rest of his -short life, for he died in 1796, when he was -only 37 years of age.</p> - -<p>Burns not only enjoyed popularity in his -own generation, but in the more than a -century since he wrote his fame has grown -steadily and his genius and talent are appreciated -in every part of the world. There -are statues and monuments to Burns all over -Scotland, but the greatest memorial is in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223"></a>[223]</span> -hearts of the people of his own country and -of all others into which his songs have gone. -Wherever there is a son or daughter of Scotland -there is a lover of “Bobby Burns.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>It was a little thrilling to be shown the inn -where “Tam O’Shanter” loitered that stormy -night in Ayr—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Auld Ayr, wham ne’er a town surpasses,</div> - <div class="verse">For honest men and bonnie lasses.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>It will be remembered that Tam and his -crony, Souter Johnny, (both honored by -statues now,) had spent the evening most -merrily, and it came time for Tam to go home -to his wife, who had frequently told Tam -what would happen to him after one of those -sprees. And the poet philosophizes:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Ah, gentle dames! it gars me greet</div> - <div class="verse">To think how mony counsels sweet,</div> - <div class="verse">How mony lengthen’d sage advices,</div> - <div class="verse">The husband frae the wife despises!”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Tam started for home on his good gray -mare, Meg, but when he reached old Alloway -Church he saw lights, and, made brave by the -Scotch whisky, he boldly looked in. He saw -the witches dancing, the devil playing the -fifes, and a young woman he knew was in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224"></a>[224]</span> -carousal. Tam foolishly called, the lights -went out, and it was up to Meg to get away -from the swarm of witches who came in hot -pursuit. The leading lady of the gang was -right upon poor Tam when he came to the -bridge, his hope of escape, for witches cannot -cross running water. With one great jump -Meg saved her master.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Ane spring brought off her master, hale,</div> - <div class="verse">But left behind her ain grey tail;</div> - <div class="verse">The carlin claught her by the rump,</div> - <div class="verse">And left poor Maggie scarce a stump.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>I have seen the tavern, the church, the -bridge, the statue of Tam, but a grateful -public has forgotten to properly commemorate -the services of Meg and the sacrifice of the -tail.</p> - -<p>Across the river Ayr are “the auld brig” -and “the new brig” which held a joint debate -as reported by Burns’s muse. The city -council was recently about to take down the -auld brig because it was unsafe, but a general -howl went up, and the bridge is to be preserved. -All of the relics of Burns are being -taken care of, and so far as possible the old -cottage and other places connected with his -life are restored to the condition they were in -when Burns was plowing and quit work to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225"></a>[225]</span> -write poetry to a mouse he had stirred out of -its nest. I can readily understand why Burns -did not make a success as a farmer, for like -other poets he did not like to work. However, -the dislike for work is not confined to poets, -who have more of an excuse for this fault than -the rest of us.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I have not yet found a Scotchman who cannot -quote Burns’s poetry by the yard. It is -all I can do to read most of Burns’s lines, and -the words I skip often look rough and jagged. -But when a Scotchman recites Burns, the -dialect and the broad accent make the rhymes -sound like music. The strange syllables fit -together in harmony so that one can understand -that Burns knew what he was about -when he used the local phrases and words in so -much of his writing. Burns was a good -scholar, and could and did write the purest of -English, but he took the homely phrases of -the Scottish life to make the common things -he writes about ring clear and right.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Ayr is about forty miles from Glasgow. As -soon as you leave the Burns neighborhood you<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226"></a>[226]</span> -get into a country of coal mines, factories, and -golf links. There are miles of golf grounds on -the moors along the road. Most of the land -is only fit to raise heather and lose golf balls. -No wonder Burns’s father failed and Robert -was going to emigrate. The more I see of -Scottish soil the more I take off my hat to -the Scotch farmers, who must be the bravest -men in the world.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>About fifty years ago Andrew Carnegie, -then a lad of a half-dozen years, took his -father by the hand and led him onto the ship -at Glasgow which brought them to America. -In all the Scotch towns there are Carnegie -libraries and other benefactions from the -Scotch boy. His shrewdness and industry -are the result of Scotch character when given -full play in an open field. On the other hand, -Burns with his talent and his weakness exhibits -another result of the sentimental yet -canny Scot who sees through humanity and -analyzes it.</p> - -<p>To read the poetry of Robert Burns is to -be wiser, better and happier. The day spent -in this little nook in which he began his life<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227"></a>[227]</span> -has brought much of Burns’s surroundings -vividly to my mind. The little hovel in -which he was born contrasts with the great -monument reared by a grateful country, and -proves his words if they needed proof:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent2">“A king can make a belted knight,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">A marquis, duke, and a’ that,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">But an honest man’s aboon his might,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Guid faith, he mauna fa’ that.</div> - <div class="verse indent6">For a’ that and a’ that,</div> - <div class="verse indent10">Their dignities and a’ that,</div> - <div class="verse indent6">The pith of sense and pride o’ worth,</div> - <div class="verse indent6">Are higher rank, than a’ that.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228"></a>[228]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="The_Journeys_End">The Journey’s End</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Steamship Cameronia</span>, September 21.</p> - -<p>For some unexplainable reason the ship -homeward-bound is always slow. When one -leaves his own country on a journey to other -lands he is in no hurry. The new pictures -that constantly present themselves, the new -objects and the talk that suggests new ideas, -hopes and plans, make the days go swiftly -by and the voyage is never too long or tiresome. -But when months of travel have exhausted -the appetite for sights, and the occurrence -of the strange no longer starts a -thrill, the thoughts of the traveler far exceed -the speed of the ship and the fastest boat that -crosses the Atlantic is too slow. This is the -only excuse I can find for the Cameronia, -which sailed four days later than scheduled, -and has developed no traits which will be -affectionately remembered by the present passengers. -She is a new ship, and not finished. -I suppose the Anchor line needed the money -or it would not have started a vessel across<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229"></a>[229]</span> -the ocean with so many things not completed -and untried. And then the Cameronia -has shown great ability as a pitcher, -also as a roller, and if a contest is begun as -to what ship can pitch and roll, kick and -buck and snort the best, I will back the -Cameronia against the field.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The ocean along the northern coast of Ireland -has a habit of being busy. The currents -from the south and the Arctic meet the turbulent -waves from the Irish Sea, and a watery -Donnybrook fair is the result. The Cameronia -enjoyed the opportunity, and although -the passengers generally took their evening -meal a majority of them went dinnerless to -bed, and they went early and with much haste. -There is no known remedy for seasickness. -The Rockefeller foundation which is discovering -wonderful germs, on which every other -ill can be laid, has not found the bacillus -which started the trouble on the Cameronia. -The ship’s doctor calmly advises you to put -your finger down your throat and aid nature -in her work. He assures you that the disease -is not fatal, although you may wish it were,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230"></a>[230]</span> -and he encourages you in the faith that every -minute will be your next. The seasick ones -lose temporarily any other trouble or ailments, -and often forget their own names, -imagining probably that these have gone with -the rest. The story is told of a time like the -one in question, that a sympathizing officer -came to a man and woman who were leaning -against each other with a common misery. -“Is your husband very sick?” he inquired -of the evidently cultured and modest lady. -“He’s not my husband,” she faintly answered, -as she leaned on her companion once again. -“Your brother?” continued the butter-in. -“I never saw him before,” she murmured, -clasping again at the wobbly supporter under -discussion.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>This is a Scotch boat, and she has some -Scotch traits. The Scotch people are wonderful. -In a land which is nearly all poor -pasture and good golf links, they have developed -a citizenship which intellectually leads -the world. But they are not given to covering -up unpleasant spots and they do not go -too strong for things of mere beauty or com<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231"></a>[231]</span>fort. -There is no blarney-stone in the Highlands. -The Scotch are probably the poorest -hotel managers in the world. The graces and -the pleasantry of the continent are despised, -and everything coming to a Scotchman is -expected on the day it is due. This habit -of thrift is necessary in a land where it has -always been a fight for man to get a result -in the way of bread or meat or porridge. -There is little humor in the Scotch nature, -and every action is based on serious thought. -The Cameronia is getting us across just as -was promised, but with no frills or furbelows -in the way of personal attention or entertainment.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Of course there is a great deal in their viewpoint, -and what seems right and proper in -one country is often looked upon with horror -in another. Sunday on the Cameronia was -Sunday as it is in Glasgow. The Anchor line -would no more sail a ship without divine -service than it would without a rudder. It -would no more permit the pianist to play -secular music like “America” or “Swanee -River” on Sunday than it would allow a pas<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232"></a>[232]</span>senger -to take the captain’s place. But all -the Sabbath Day the Anchor line sells booze -openly and without a compunction of conscience. -A compulsorily closed piano and an -open bar look strange from the viewpoint of -a traveler from Kansas.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I do not want to seem to be faultfinding, -so I will only say that the grand concert on -the Cameronia was not much worse than is -usual on shipboard. Everybody knows that -during a voyage some night is designated as -concert night, a program is given by the passengers, -and a collection taken for the benefit -of the Sailors’ Home or some such charitable -object. But only those who have actually -made the trip and attended a concert realize -the painful nature of the operation. A notice -is posted on the bulletin board asking -for volunteers for the program, and aspiring -genius directly or through friends offers itself -for the entertainment. A dignified gentleman -who can’t tell a funny story but thinks -he can is selected for chairman. Sometimes -a really good musician or entertainer is inadvertently -included in the program, but this<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233"></a>[233]</span> -is not often. No mistake is made in the choice -of pretty girls who take up the collection. -Our concert was opened by a bass solo, the -guilty party being a man with his name -parted in the middle and old enough to know -better. He rendered (that’s the proper word) -the old Roman favorite, “Only a Pansy Blossom.” -When he came to the chorus about -a faded flower he waved a yellow chrysanthemum -in the air to a tremulo accompaniment. -This was not a comic song, but a serious, -sentimental selection, and the singer was an -Englishman. The Scotch and English in the -room heaved sighs and said to each other, -“How beautiful!” The Americans poked -each other in the ribs and almost wept in the -effort to restrain their laughter. Of course -he was encored, and he rendered again. -This time it was a ballad about the golden -tress of my darling, and in the touchiest of -the touching lines he drew forth from his -vest a piece of female switch, peroxide in -color and horsetailish in effect. It was a -great effort, and the serious fellow-country-men -heaved more sighs of appreciation, while -an American girl at my right whispered out<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234"></a>[234]</span> -of her handerchief, “I know I’m going to -scream!” Then a Scotchman sang an Irish -song. Now a Scotchman can’t get the Irish -brogue any more than he can understand an -American joke. He was enthusiastically encored, -and responded with a French dialect -story, in broad Scotch. It was funnier than -he knew. An amateur violinist contributed -an execution of a sonata or a nocturne or a -cordial of some kind. A famous story-teller -recited a few choice bits from the column of -some London magazine, on which the American -copyright expired many years ago. The -chairman in a few touching words then explained -the object of the charity for which -the fund was to be collected, and the touching -was completed by the young ladies with -pleasant smiles.</p> - -<p>Such is a ship’s concert, and with slight variations -it is one of the features of every -ocean voyage.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_fp234.jpg" alt="" width="411" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">INTRODUCING A JOKE TO OUR BRITISH COUSINS</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I have alluded to the lack of humor in -Great Britain, from the American viewpoint. -I heard a good joke on the Scotch, and told -it to a small crowd in the smoking-room. -The story was of the boy who asked his father -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235"></a>[235]</span>why there was such a coin as a farthing, the -fourth part of a penny. The father replied -that it was to enable the Scotch to be charitable. -Nobody laughed, and I resumed a -discussion of the weather. About five minutes -afterward an Englishman roared with -mirth, and shouted to me, “I follow you! I -follow you!” I didn’t understand why he -was following me until he began my story, -which he repeated with explanations and reminders -of the proverbial Scotch thrift. Then -he told it again and laughed loudly. The -others smiled courteously and then face after -face broadened, they all “followed,” and nobody -appreciated the joke more than the -Scotchmen. They told the story to each -other and laughed, then hunted up friends -and told it until the friends “followed,” and -I was pointed out as a humorist. But it -was a long and painful operation, and I did -not have the courage to try it again. These -British cousins are not devoid of humor but -their speed limit is far below ours.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>The harbor of New York is in sight and the -pilot just came aboard. I witnessed an affect<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236"></a>[236]</span>ing -scene. A fellow-passenger shouted vigorously -to get the attention of a man who was -sitting in the pilot boat. The man looked -up, and I could tell the passenger was nervously -preparing to ask for important news, -perhaps of the strike, or the English elections. -He called, “Who’s ahead in the National -League?”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>No coast looks as beautiful as the shore of -home. Even New Jersey looms magnificently -at such a time. The passengers are -all on deck except those who are hiding articles -from the customs officer. The returning -Americans are full of enthusiasm. They have -seen enough of other lands to know that there -is none to compare with the United States, -none which comes nearer to giving a man a -chance. The foreigners in the first cabin -watch the approaching scene with quiet interest. -Over in the steerage hundreds of -would-be Americans gaze eagerly at the land -of hope and promise. Soon they will be -welcomed by the Statue of Liberty which holds -out the torch of citizenship to every alien with -ten dollars in cash and a certificate of health.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237"></a>[237]</span> -The American flag appears on passing boats, -and it is the most beautiful as it is the most -meaning of all the ensigns of all the nations. -A man with a German accent tells me how -forty years ago, when a mere boy, he came -from the fatherland to try his fortune in the -New World. This year he went back for a -visit, but he had a stateroom and was not -in the steerage. He saw the struggle and the -lack of opportunity in the country of his -birth. Now he is homeward-bound, satisfied -that in spite of trusts and politics and -coon songs, this is really the land of the free, -the nation of opportunity; and as the pilot -took charge and the American flag went to -the top of the Cameronia’s mast, a tear -trickled down his cheek, telling of the joy -in his heart.</p> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<p> </p> -<hr class="chap1" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="transnote"> - <h2 id="end_note" class="nopagebreak" title="">Transcriber’s Note</h2> - -<p>Hyphenation has been standardised.</p> -<p>A Table of Illustrations has been created by the Transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> -<p>Because some of the illustration borders are not square they do not - show as even.</p> -<p><a href="#Page_61" title="">Page 61</a>— protraying changed to portraying.</p> -<p><a href="#Page_113" title="">Page 113</a>— commerical changed to commercial.</p> -<p><a href="#Page_121" title="">Page 121</a>— slipping changed to sipping.</p> -<p><a href="#Page_141" title="">Page 141</a>— langauges changed to languages.</p> -<p><a href="#Page_163" title="">Page 163</a>— Boulougne changed to Boulogne.</p> -<p><a href="#Page_169" title="">Page 169</a>— 1060 changed to 1066.</p> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JAYHAWKER IN EUROPE***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 65744-h.htm or 65744-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/5/7/4/65744">http://www.gutenberg.org/6/5/7/4/65744</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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