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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b7e97c4 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #65514 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/65514) diff --git a/old/65514-0.txt b/old/65514-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b6aa340..0000000 --- a/old/65514-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9630 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Paddy at Home, by E. De Mandat-Grancey, -Translated by Alice Pullein Morton - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Paddy at Home - - -Author: E. De Mandat-Grancey - - - -Release Date: June 5, 2021 [eBook #65514] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PADDY AT HOME*** - - -E-text prepared by deaurider, Martin Pettit, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/22617530.2597.emory.edu - - - - -PADDY AT HOME. - - - * * * * * * - -[Illustration: ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE. - -COUGHS, COLDS, ASTHMA, BRONCHITIS.] - -DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE IS THE GREAT SPECIFIC FOR CHOLERA -DIARRHŒA, DYSENTERY. - - -Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE.--Dr. J. C. BROWNE (late Army -Medical Staff) DISCOVERED a REMEDY to denote which he coined the word -CHLORODYNE. Dr. Browne is the SOLE INVENTOR, and, as the composition -of Chlorodyne cannot possibly be discovered by Analysis (organic -substances defying elimination), and since the formula has never been -published, it is evident that any statement to the effect that a -compound is identical with Dr. Browne’s Chlorodyne _must be false_. - -This Caution is necessary, as many persons deceive purchasers by false -representations. - - -DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE.--Vice Chancellor Sir W. PAGE WOOD -stated publicly in Court that Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE was UNDOUBTEDLY the -INVENTOR of CHLORODYNE, that the whole story of the defendant Freeman -was deliberately untrue, and he regretted to say it had been sworn -to.--See _The Times_, July 13th, 1864. - - -GENERAL BOARD of HEALTH, London, REPORT that it ACTS as a CHARM, one -dose generally sufficient. - - Dr. GIBBON, Army Medical Staff, Calcutta, states: “2 DOSES - COMPLETELY CURED ME of DIARRHŒA.” - - _From_ SYMES & CO., Pharmaceutical Chemists, Simla. _Jan. 5, 1880._ - - _To_ J. T. DAVENPORT, London. - - DEAR SIR,--We congratulate you upon the widespread reputation - this justly-esteemed medicine has earned for itself all over the - East. As a remedy of general utility, we much question whether a - better is imported, and we shall be glad to hear of its finding a - place in every Anglo-Indian home. The other brands, we are happy - to say, are now relegated to the native bazaars, and, judging from - their sale, we fancy their sojourn there will be but evanescent. - We could multiply instances _ad infinitum_ of the extraordinary - efficacy of DR. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE in Diarrhœa and - Dysentery, Spasms, Cramps, Neuralgia the Vomiting of Pregnancy, - and as a general sedative, that have occurred under our personal - observation during many years. In Choleraic Diarrhœa, and even in - the more terrible forms of Cholera itself, we have witnessed its - surprisingly controlling power. - - We have never used any other form of this medicine than Collis - Browne’s, from a firm conviction that it is decidedly the best, - and also from a sense of duty we owe to the profession and the - public, as we are of opinion that the substitution of any other - than Collis Browne’s is a deliberate breach of faith on the part - of the chemist to prescriber and patient alike.--We are, Sir, - faithfully yours, SYMES & CO., _Members of the Pharm. Society of - Great Britain, His Excellency the Viceroy’s Chemists_. - -DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE is the TRUE PALLIATIVE in NEURALGIA, -GOUT, CANCER, TOOTHACHE, RHEUMATISM. - -DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE is a liquid medicine which assuages -PAIN of EVERY KIND, affords a calm, refreshing sleep WITHOUT HEADACHE, -and INVIGORATES the nervous system when exhausted. - -DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE rapidly cuts short all attacks of -EPILEPSY, SPASMS, COLIC, PALPITATION, HYSTERIA. - -IMPORTANT CAUTION.--The IMMENSE SALE of this REMEDY has given rise to -many UNSCRUPULOUS IMITATIONS. Be careful to observe Trade Mark. Of all -Chemists. 1s. 1½d., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d. - -SOLE MANUFACTURER, -J. T. DAVENPORT, 33 Gt. Russell St., W.C. - -_Dr. BROWNE coined the word CHLORODYNE to designate his discovery, -therefore to apply the word to other preparations is dishonest._ - - * * * * * * - - -PADDY AT HOME. - -(“Chez Paddy.”) - -by - -THE BARON E. DE MANDAT-GRANCEY. - -Translated by Alice Pullein Morton. - -Fourth Edition, Revised._ - - - - - - -London: -Chapman and Hall, Limited, -11, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. -1888. - -Richard Clay and Sons, -London and Bungay. - - - - -DEDICATION. - -H.R.H. THE COUNTESS OF FLANDERS HAS DEIGNED TO -ACCEPT THE DEDICATION OF THIS BOOK. - - - - -PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. - - -Agriculture has been subjected for some years past in all parts of -Europe, and particularly in France, to a crisis so intense and terrible -as only to be compared to that which Italy passed through at the time -when, by the extinction of piracy in the Mediterranean, the transport -of grain from Egypt and Algeria to Rome became possible. The effect -of that measure was to ruin the agriculture of the peninsula, and to -compel the rural population to exile themselves from their country; but -it must be admitted that the result in the end was to benefit all the -nations of the Mediterranean coast by enabling them to participate in -the advantages of civilisation, which until then had been the appanage -of a very small number. This economic revolution, disastrous as it was -to the Roman Empire, proved beneficial to humanity. - -I am absolutely convinced that the application of the discovery -of steam, to diminish the spaces which separate us from the -thinly-populated continents of America and Australia, must bring about -an analogous revolution--that is to say, a more equal division of -wealth, and a more logical distribution of the human race upon the -surface of the globe. I understand very well that those who can set the -love of humanity before the love of country will rejoice at this--but I -am not one of them. - -I believe that for certain countries success in the contest of -competition is impossible. In those countries a large emigration is -the only remedy. With us in France it is different. I believe we can -compete, and compete successfully, when aided by protection, and I am -glad to recognise the fact that most of the continental nations adopt -this policy, for it is the only one which, in my opinion, will preserve -to the Caucasian race and to European civilisation the position which -they hold at the head of mankind. - -I have been to seek in Ireland the confirmation of these theories. I -believe I have found it there. I know how repugnant such ideas will be -to some, and that possibly they may call forth but little sympathy from -the mass of English readers; I have therefore been desirous of offering -these few words of explanation in order that they may understand the -spirit in which this book has been conceived and written as it is--by a -Frenchman for Frenchmen. - -“_Traduttori! tradittori!_” says an Italian proverb, and this I had -so forcibly in my mind that I had some hesitation when Mr. Chapman -did me the honour to offer to publish an English translation of my -book. I know well the difficulty of translating a book of this style, -however intimate the translator may be with the two languages; and -I should never have thought it possible for any one to succeed so -completely in rendering even the slightest thoughts of the author, as -has been accomplished by Mrs. Morton, who has so kindly served me by -interpreting me to the English public. I may perhaps be permitted to -offer to her here some expressions of my gratitude and of my admiration -for her literary talent, which I have felt so strongly while reading -the proof sheets. - -EDMOND DE MANDAT-GRANCEY. - -_17th July, 1887._ - - - - -PREFACE. - - -Ireland and France are still united by so many sympathetic memories -that we have watched all the incidents of the struggle undertaken -by the unfortunate Irish against England with the keenest interest. -This struggle has now lasted nearly three hundred years, but the -Irish have never despaired. They have always preserved their faith -and their nationality unsullied. England has tried every means for -their subjection. First--extreme repression. We may say that until -the commencement of this century, the brutality and perfidy she has -displayed, surpass all that one could imagine. How, for instance, can -we allude calmly to the Bill (2 Anne, C. VI. § 3) which provided that -if in a Catholic family the eldest son became a Protestant, he might, -through that alone, lay claim to the property of all his relations who -remained Catholic; the latter only retaining the usufruct, and being -then obliged to remit a portion of the rents to him. This law has -been repealed; but it was not until 1829 that a Catholic member could -sit in Parliament. These measures were quite inadequate to advance -matters one single step. The two races always refused to assimilate. -England herself has been conquered, and the Norman invaders were not -too merciful towards the Saxons. However, the fusion took place so -rapidly that at the end of one or two centuries there was no longer any -distinction between the two peoples. - -But it appears as though the Norman race in blending with the Saxon, -had lost all its powers of assimilation. From that time England has -made many conquests. Nearly everywhere she has scrupulously respected -the customs, the religion, and even the prejudices of the vanquished. -And yet neither in Canada, in India, nor anywhere else has she ever -been able to assimilate the conquered race, in spite of the material -progress that she often brings them, whilst the Spaniards or the -Portuguese, who used the most abominable means to conquer their -colonies, who did nothing for them, who exhausted them in every -possible way, still managed to completely modify the nationality of the -races with whom they were dealing, so that after they regained their -freedom these colonies remained Spanish or Portuguese in language, -customs, and religion. - -It therefore seems as though modern Englishmen have an absolute -inaptitude for the assimilation of foreign races. From 1829 they have -done all in their power to win submission from Ireland by kindness, -since they could not conquer it by violence. Everything that we hear -about the state of this unhappy country shows us that these attempts -have not been more successful than the former ones. - -Now Mr. Gladstone wishes to try a third experiment. He says that -unquestionably the union between Ireland and England has, until now, -been a most unhappy one. We have only to look at the map to see that -they must live under the same political legislation. A divorce is -impossible. Let something like a judicial separation be tried; each -one would regain liberty to a certain extent, and there would only be -left those details under the old dual regulations which it would be -absolutely impossible to deal with separately. This is the programme -now laid before the English people. Has it any chance of being accepted -by the parties interested? And then if it is adopted, what influence -would it have over the future of the two countries? - -I have often asked myself these questions, sympathising with one side -when reading the excited debates in the House of Commons, with the -other when hearing of the lamentable state of Ireland. But I seem to -catch a glimpse of one view of the question that no one has yet alluded -to. The Irish attribute their misery to England’s tyranny; the English, -indignant at the accusation, reply that the laws which rule Ireland -are the same which render the English people rich and prosperous; they -assert that the Irish have only themselves to blame for their misery. -In this discussion each starts with a fixed idea--that the misery -of Ireland must have some social, religious, or political cause. May -it not quite simply result from economical causes? The facility of -transport is tending to level the value of land and population all -over the world; and consequently it is ruining agriculture in Europe. -This evolution is only commencing amongst us, whilst the accumulation -of capital and the fertility of the soil have until now singularly -mitigated its effects. But in Ireland, where no capital exists, and -where the soil is very poor, this evolution commenced a long time ago, -and its consequences must be more terrible than anywhere else. Is it -not here that we must look for the real origin of the Irish crisis? -And if this is so, may not the events now taking place in that unhappy -country be reproduced amongst us sooner or later, if we do not guard -against them? - -It was in order to verify this theory that I determined last year to go -and pass some weeks in Ireland, where I have many friends. The notes -which I now ask you to read have been collected from day to day. As far -as possible, I have named the persons who have given me information, -and designated by their right names the localities through which I -passed. But I have been forced to break this rule three or four times, -in order not to expose my hosts to personal danger. - -GRANCEY, _April, 1887_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - -CHAPTER I. - PAGE -THE STORY OF A MINISTER, HIS SECRETARY, AND A PAIR OF -SATIN SHOES--MR. R----’S THEORIES--LONDON--ENGLISH -SOLDIERS--THE CHANNEL TUNNEL--HYDE -PARK--HOLYHEAD--DUBLIN--THE JAUNTING CARS--_The -United Ireland_ AND MR. O’BRIEN--_The Freeman’s -Journal_ AND MR. DWYER GRAY 1 - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE LAND LEAGUE--AN IRISH CONFESSOR--CAPTAIN BOYCOTT--A -CONSPIRATOR’S CAVE--MR. HARRINGTON--MR. -BIGGAR--THE OBSTRUCTION CAMPAIGN--MR. SULLIVAN -LORD MAYOR, POET, PATRIOT, STATESMAN, AND DIVER--A -ROUGH ELECTION MEETING--MR. SHACKLETON--A -CANDIDATE’S PROFESSION OF FAITH--PEMBROKE HOUSE 29 - - -CHAPTER III. - -ADVICE TO TOURISTS ON THE ART OF KISSING ENGLISH -WOMEN--AN IRISH INN--CASTLE CONNELL--THE -DEATH OF THE LAST OF THE O’BRIENS--BALLINACOURTY--CAPTAIN -MOONLIGHT--THE SHANNON--SIR CROKER -BARRINGTON--MR. CARDEN--LORD CLONCURRY AND HIS -TENANTS--A LAND LEAGUE HUT--MR. PATRICK HOGAN’S -OPINION OF THE LANDLORDS 79 - - -CHAPTER IV. - -LIMERICK--ADMIRABLE SELF-DEVOTION OF THE IRISH PIGS--THE -AGENTS--MALLOW--KILLARNEY--HOW WE TRAVEL -IN KERRY--MUCKROSS ABBEY--AN IRISH CABIN--DERRYGARIFF--THE -ORIGINAL HISTORY OF AN ESTATE--THE -DRAMA OF GLENVEIGH--A DINNER IN KERRY 117 - - -CHAPTER V. - -AN AGENT’S MORNING--HOW A DAIRY WAS FOUNDED--MR. -O’LEARY’S CASE--MINISTER AND ARCHDEACON--CATHOLIC -ORGANISATION IN IRELAND--THE DISTRESS OF THE TAX-PAYERS -AT KENMARE--AN INDIGNATION MEETING--THE -IRISH CONSTABULARY 160 - - -CHAPTER VI. - -DEPARTURE FROM KENMARE--A BAILIFF UNDER PROTECTION--HOW -PLAIN DAUGHTERS CAN BE ADVANTAGEOUSLY -DISPOSED OF--BLARNEY CASTLE--TRALEE--BARON -DOWSE’S SPEECH--AN IRISH MARKET--THE GRAND JURY -AND ITS PRESIDENT--MEDITATIONS 205 - - -CHAPTER VII. - -IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC CASE OF BOYCOTTING--ANGLERS -ON THE SHANNON--THE CONSTITUTIONAL--ENGLISH -EDUCATION--DEPARTURE FOR SHAUNGANEEN--MR. -THOMPSON--THE CORK DEFENCE UNION--SEVERELY -BOYCOTTED--PRETTY MISS M’CARTHY AND HER LEG OF -MUTTON--ENSILAGE IN THE OPEN AIR--THE RETURN -FROM CAHIRMEE--THE CONNECTION BETWEEN ENGLISHWOMEN’S -VIRTUE AND THE RAISING OF THOROUGHBRED -HORSES--THE ORIGIN OF HARICOT MUTTON--CHRISTMAS -NIGHT 1880 AT SHAUNGANEEN 228 - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -CONCLUSION 279 - - - - -PADDY AT HOME. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - THE STORY OF A MINISTER, HIS SECRETARY, AND A PAIR OF SATIN - SHOES--MR. R----’S THEORIES--LONDON--ENGLISH SOLDIERS--THE CHANNEL - TUNNEL--HYDE PARK--HOLYHEAD--DUBLIN--THE JAUNTING CARS--_United - Ireland_ AND MR. O’BRIEN--_The Freeman’s Journal_ AND MR. DWYER - GRAY. - - -_July 1st, 1886._--At twenty past eight this morning I left the _Gare -du Nord_ and arrived at Charing Cross at half-past five. When we -reached Dover at three o’clock the English Custom House officers had -closely examined all the luggage carried in the hand. Others now waited -for us in London, who searched our trunks quite as minutely. They made -me unscrew the little boxes in my dressing-bag, apparently to ascertain -that they did not contain dynamite; for at the present time dynamite -causes great preoccupation, not only to the English police, but also to -a great many of Queen Victoria’s faithful subjects. I can prove this by -a story which is only a few months old, and which was related to me a -day or two ago. - -It happened at the time when O’Donovan Rossa, at New York, daily -announced in his newspaper that the week would not close before all -the public buildings in London were destroyed by the exertions of -pupils who had just left the special school which he had founded at -Brooklyn for the study of the use of dynamite; and since these threats -have been corroborated by the explosions at the Tower of London and at -the War Office, public excitement had reached its highest point. One -morning when a very high official reached his office he saw a small, -strangely-shaped parcel, which Had been placed on his writing-table. - -“What is that?” demanded the official, addressing his secretary. - -“I do not know,” replied the other; “it was there when I came in, and -no one can tell me who put it there.” - -“Oh, oh!” said the official. “I am obliged to go out for a few minutes; -be kind enough to open it and see what it is,” and the great man -precipitately left the room. - -The secretary advanced to open it, but changed his mind. - -“Mr. Jones,” said he to one of the chief clerks who was reading in the -next room, “the chief has sent me to the city. Will you kindly open -the small parcel you will find on the writing-table?” and he ran down -stairs. - -Half an hour later when the chief returned he found the man who cleans -the office examining with an astonished face a pair of satin shoes that -the minister’s wife, who was then in the country, had sent to her lord -and master in order that they might be returned to the shoemaker. - -However, for the moment dynamite seems to have become a matter of -secondary interest. Every one is thinking of the elections and of the -events passing in Ulster. - -You must know that of the population of this Irish province about -fifty-five per cent. are Protestants, nearly all of Scottish origin. -For two hundred years, thanks to English supremacy, they have not -neglected a single opportunity of tormenting their Catholic neighbours, -and they say that if Mr. Gladstone’s Bill should render Ireland -independent, the positions will be reversed, and the Catholics will -lose no time in returning their persecutions with interest. Their -exasperation has therefore assumed alarming dimensions. It must also be -acknowledged their arguments are very specious. - -“We have,” say they, “been brought here by the English to consolidate -their conquest. In all the southern revolts we have formed the vanguard -of the English troops. It is just because we are loyal subjects of -the Queen that we are hated by the Irish; and now England talks of -abandoning us, bound hand and foot, to our enemies. - -“We maintain that in doing this she will exceed her rights. No -Government is allowed to cut the bonds that unite the different parts -of the kingdom. English we are, and English we mean to remain; and if -they intend to separate us, in spite of ourselves, we will resist, -if necessary, even in arms. And we shall soon see whether the Queen -will send her soldiers against us merely because we wish to remain her -subjects.” - -With this subscriptions were organised, not only in Ulster, but in most -of the colonies; rifles were bought, volunteers were enlisted, and the -party newspapers loudly announced that an army of 75,000 men was only -waiting until Mr. Gladstone’s Bill passed before taking the field. - -No doubt there was a great deal of exaggeration in all this. However, -that the movement existed cannot be denied, and from its nature it must -create very great difficulties for Mr. Gladstone if he succeeded in -passing his Bill, for he will be forced to send an English army against -Englishmen only because they wish to remain English subjects. Would -the army go? Would the soldiers accept such an odious commission? We -may well inquire, for the other day at Aldershot some drunken soldiers -invaded a Gladstonian election meeting. They beat the persons present, -treating them as rebels, and when the guard were called in they did not -conceal their sympathy for their comrades. - -I also read in the _Morning Post_ a fact which appears to me very -significant. The officer who commanded the detachment which reached -Khartoum some hours too late to save Gordon--Lord Charles Beresford, -captain in the navy--is now candidate for the section of Marylebone, -in London, which he represented in the last Parliament. A rumour had -spread that he, General Lord Wolseley, and several other superior -officers who are Protestants but of Irish origin, had promised in case -of a conflict, to take the command of the Ulster volunteers. He was -questioned on this point, and this was his answer: - -“They have grossly distorted my words,” said he. “I am an officer, and -I can never join men who fight against Her Majesty the Queen; but if I -were ordered to serve against my fellow-countrymen I would resign my -commission.” - -It is therefore not impossible that the least skirmish in Ulster would -end, always supposing that the Bill passed, in mutiny in the English -army. The situation is consequently very serious. At least this appears -to be the general opinion. I had the good fortune to dine with several -political men this evening. Our host, a very fine old man, occupies an -important position in the magistracy. He is also a distinguished author -who has exercised considerable influence in the Liberal movement of the -last fifty years; he was the intimate friend of de Tocqueville and his -assiduous correspondent. - -Mr. R----, who honoured me with a long conversation before dinner, -appeared to me deeply moved by current events. The crisis provoked by -Mr. Gladstone seemed to him so serious, that, although an old Liberal -who had belonged to the Whigs all his life, and although for some years -he had not engaged in active politics, he had not hesitated to re-enter -the arena and to take the field against his friends in favour of the -Conservatives. Naturally, his attitude produced a great impression, and -the other day he was invited to make a speech at a meeting over which -Lord Malmesbury was to preside. - -The newspapers published and commented upon his speech. I told him how -much the reports given of it had interested me, and he was kind enough -to condense into a few words the thesis that he had supported. - -His estimate of the situation threw such a vivid light upon the -question that I cannot do better than reproduce his words. - -“What Mr. Gladstone really proposes to us,” said he, “is a -dismemberment of England. He wishes that with our free consent and -without any struggle we should submit to the loss of one of our -provinces, just as after a disastrous war, you lost Alsace. - -“The wound thus inflicted upon the country would perhaps be even more -dangerous than the one that France has suffered from, because, for many -reasons, the scar would always remain open. And to whom in fact do they -propose to surrender Ireland? To a Parliament elected by herself! But -they know who the members of that Parliament would be. It would be Mr. -Parnell and his partisans, the Irish members of the present Parliament, -or rather Mr. Parnell and his followers, for no one denies the -well-known fact that the Irish Nationalists, before their nomination, -were obliged to sign an agreement which bound them to the most absolute -obedience to Mr. Parnell’s orders. - -“We should therefore surrender Ireland to Mr. Parnell, and to the -National League of which he is president. Now the National League -is a society organised in America under the patronage of Irish -revolutionists and their accomplices whom they can find amongst us, -whose avowed aim is to substitute their authority for that of the -Queen. And they have so far succeeded that this irresponsible power -has been able to establish in Ireland all the elements and all the -machinery of regular authority. It raises taxes, promulgates laws, and -has tribunals which simulate justice in the application of these laws, -which are scrupulously obeyed because, whilst the enforcement of our -law is hampered by the thousand formalities which always accompany the -administration of regular justice, they use the dagger and pistol to -ensure the execution of their decrees. Hundreds of innocent lives have -already been sacrificed in this way. Their power is so great that they -have found means to render life intolerable to all who show the least -inclination to free themselves; for their spies penetrate everywhere, -and the country is so terrorised that the victims themselves dare not -complain. And now they propose that we should surrender Ireland into -the hands of these men! - -“But this is not all. Is there, at least, any chance that so -dishonourable an abdication, so painful a sacrifice, would secure -peace? We assert that it would not do so. The Irish Nationalists have -no definite aspirations. They use each concession that is made to them -as an argument and basis for claiming a second. They are no longer -content to demand that Ireland should have the right of framing her -own laws; theoretically, this would still be admissible; they now wish -that she should no longer submit to the laws of the English Parliament. -As though two parts of the same nation can be ruled by different -legislatures, by two codes so entirely different, and inspired by -opposing principles. The experiment has already been tried in 1782, -and it was then so clearly proved that this combination was absolutely -impracticable, that Mr. Pitt won eternal honour by re-establishing, in -1800, that union which is so indispensable to a nation, yet which they -now dare to ask us to repeal. - -“I now approach another side of the question. I have the most -profound respect for those of our fellow-citizens who profess the -Catholic religion. But, as you know, the eighty-six present members -of Parliament who have attached themselves to Mr. Parnell, owe their -election to the influence of the Catholic clergy. They are completely -and absolutely devoted to the prelates of that Church. It is therefore -these prelates who would rule Ireland. They would have the direction -of the public education. But then, what would be the fate of the -Protestant population, which is still loyal to England, whose cause -they have defended for two hundred and fifty years? You would abandon -them to their worst enemies. Would the Catholics at once proceed to -massacre them as they did in 1641? Perhaps not. Still I feel convinced, -that should troubles arise, the lives of the Protestants would be -endangered, but, in any case, you may be sure that the Catholics would -know how to render life intolerable to them. - -“There is another consideration not less important than the former. -From the day that Ireland possesses Home Rule, not a single Englishman -will remain there, it would immediately be followed by a great -emigration of the richer classes. Some would go to the colonies, but -the others, in greater number, would come to England. Some of the -linen manufacturers in Belfast are already making arrangements for the -transfer of their business to the Isle of Man. - -“Work, which is already scarce in Ireland, would then completely -disappear. After the masters’ emigration we should see that of the -workmen, and their influx upon the labour market in England, which is -already overcrowded, would necessarily lead to a serious fall in wages. - -“You now see the probable results of separation from both the social -and economic aspects. Its consequences, from all political and military -considerations, would be still more fatal. In case of war unity is -indispensable in a great empire. It was through unity that in our -generation Italy has attained independence; it is through unity -Germany governs Europe. And it is at this moment, when every nation is -realising the necessity of strengthening the links that unite their -different parts, that the proposal is made that we should create on our -own coasts an independent, if not hostile, power....” - -It appears to me that this speech, of which I can only give an epitome, -faithfully reproduces the objections which Englishmen raise against the -Gladstonian Bill. The first effect of the Bill was to throw the Liberal -Party into absolute confusion. A lady whom I met to-day said to me: - -“Really, everything is upside down! My husband was in the House of -Lords; my eldest son is now a member of it; his two brothers sat in the -last House of Commons; my family has always been Liberal. During the -fifty years that I have lived in the political world I have always been -accustomed to see the Tories considered our enemies. And now, thanks to -Mr. Gladstone, we are forced to acknowledge that, for the moment, only -the Tories can save England; and all my sons have entered the field on -behalf of their former adversaries.” - -It is evident that every one whom I have seen is much alarmed. -People are greatly exasperated against Mr. Gladstone, who, in order -to succeed, will not hesitate to provoke a war of classes. The -dissentients who have abandoned him have shown great loyalty to their -new allies, for, in many instances several of them have withdrawn from -the contest, leaving the field open for the Conservatives. - -What will be the result of this struggle? In the general opinion of -all who were present at the dinner the elections would not throw -any light upon the situation. The Conservatives would gain a great -deal, but would not have a majority without the support of some of -the dissentients. Now the latter will vote for them and against Mr. -Gladstone on the question of Home Rule, but they will vote for Mr. -Gladstone and against the Conservatives on every other subject. It will -therefore, if these predictions should be realised, become necessary to -have a third election before long. These are some of the circumstances -in which we admire a parliamentary government. - -Here I leave the English side of the question. To-morrow I start for -Ireland. I am going to live in the country governed by the Land League; -I shall see the principal heads of the Nationalist movement; in their -turn they will explain the situation to me from the Irish side; and -after hearing the _pros_ and _cons_ of the question I will endeavour to -form an opinion. - -_July 3rd._--I really do not know why London should be described as a -frightful city; but it is the English who speak of it in those terms. -The French are contented to believe the report, and, as a rule, take -care not to go there. For my part I have only visited it two or three -times in my life, and have never remained more than four days at a -time, but I own that I think London is charming. I only find fault with -the distances. - -In Paris one can get anywhere in twenty minutes; here the shortest -drive takes at least half an hour or forty minutes, and yet the cabs -travel faster than our _fiacres_. But what animation in the streets, -which are nearly all filled with two and sometimes four rows of -carriages following each other uninterruptedly. And, besides, I have a -weakness for the small English houses, which, without any architectural -pretensions, all look so clean and comfortable. Still, the absence of -porches for carriages (_portes cochères_) must be very inconvenient, -particularly for women. What state must their satin shoes be in when -they are obliged to cross a muddy pavement on a wet evening? We are, -perhaps, a little inclined to exaggerate English comfort. But, really, -when we have seen M. Boulanger’s untidy, bearded army, it is quite -refreshing to look at the fine English soldiers, who walk about the -streets holding a small cane in the hand. We may, perhaps, find fault -with them for looking a little too much like fashion-plates, with their -well-pomatumed hair and their small forage caps stuck over the right -ear, in utter defiance of the most elementary laws of equilibrium; -but it is always advisable that a soldier should take pride in his -appearance. Still, some of them a little exaggerate the effect. But the -Scotchmen--the Highlanders--are my delight. They exhibit their ruddy -calves, and the long plaids that hang from their shoulders, with such -amusing pride. But one should see them in India. A few years ago I was -at Singapore at the same time as a Scotch regiment. We never missed -going to see them parade and drill every evening. There was the officer -passing in front of his troops, stiff, formal, handsome as a god. The -men stood perfectly still, but their grimacing, convulsed features -indicated the revolt of the flesh against discipline; as soon as the -officer had passed the flesh asserted its right; the bayonets waved -like corn shaken by the wind. In defiance of breaking the line all -hastily bent down and furiously rubbed their legs, which resembled -zebra’s stripes from mosquito bites. It was a splendid sight. - -I was staying at the Alexandra Hotel. From my windows I could see the -fine trees and green lawns of Hyde Park. I occupied the same room -four years ago. But then we formed quite a party, M. de Lesseps, the -Duc de F----, and several others. I can never help laughing at the -recollection of the disaster that awaited us. The promoters of the -Channel Tunnel had invited us to come and see the works, which were -being actively pressed forward, a little, I believe, in the hope of -forcing the hand of the English Government, which did not seem very -enthusiastic about it. At Dover they had invited us to a grand dinner -at the Lord Warden Hotel; and on the following day a special train -conveyed us to the entrance of the tunnel, at the foot of the long -white cliffs by which the railway runs--the “white cliffs of Old -England!” Everybody was in the most delightful humour, except, however, -M. Hervé Mangon, since Minister of the French Republic, who would not -unbend, but threatened a diplomatic representation because he had lost -his portmanteau. - -Small trucks drawn by workmen took us to the end of the long gallery -already excavated. They had reached 1,600 metres from the shore. -Colonel Beaumont’s perforating machine bit heartily into the white -chalk, scarcely firmer than cheese, through which they daily advanced -three or four yards. We emptied a respectable number of champagne -bottles to the success of the enterprise, which to us all seemed so -certain that we treated those who hinted that it could not be opened -under two years as lukewarm partisans. - -A magnificent luncheon, served in a tent, awaited us when we came -out. We recommenced drinking the finest champagne. Every one thought -of making his little speech, when suddenly we saw a gentleman arrive, -who handed to the president, Sir Edward Watkin, a paper resembling an -official document. He hastened to open it, and commenced reading it -aloud. It was an order from the Board of Trade, I believe, commanding -that the works should be stopped at once. - -The particulars of this order are amusing. The collection of English -laws is voluminous, for none of them are ever annulled. However, they -had the greatest trouble in the world to find a law that applied to -our case. They were obliged to content themselves with a statute -dating from the Saxon Heptarchy, which “forbade the establishment of -communications with foreign lands.” The punishment threatened by this -statute was not a very agreeable prospect, but one could be sure that -after the sentence was executed the condemned would not protest against -it. For it was clearly explained that first his head would be cut off, -then his body divided into thirteen pieces; and one piece would be sent -to each of the thirteen chief cities in the country, to ornament its -principal gate. - -I remember that when Sir Edward, who did not appear to take all these -details very seriously, reached this point he interrupted his reading, -and piously raising his eyes towards heaven, he exclaimed: - -“I hope that her most gracious majesty, taking into consideration the -small size of her humble subject, will deign to make an exception in my -favour, and allow the number of pieces to be reduced. I fear that some -of the cities would be deprived of their share of me, but at least the -others would haw a reasonably-sized piece!” - -This reflection provoked peals of laughter from the honourable company, -in which the official who had brought the order joined. He was invited -to sit down, and he also began to drink champagne with marvellous -good will. Sir Edward was not cut in pieces, but the Channel works -were effectively stopped, and God knows whether they will ever be -recommenced. I always think of this story when I see the English -struggling with any difficulties. No one knows how to harmonise their -principles and their interest better than they do. The real reason of -their opposition to this unfortunate tunnel is that they foresee that -its construction would deal a severe blow to their coasting trade. -But since, after two hundred years of close protection, they have now -constituted themselves the apostles of free trade, they cannot possibly -own that these considerations affect them. Others might have been -embarrassed by this affair. They at once discovered the famous old -Saxon law. It is the same thing with American cattle. They begin to -see that agriculture will become impossible in England if cattle are -imported too freely. So they have discovered an admirable method of -arranging matters. Instead of stopping the imports by a Custom House -officer, they employ a veterinary surgeon. The cattle are allowed -to disembark, but as soon as they are landed the sanitary inspector -examines them, declares that they are diseased, and has them killed on -the spot. I feel sure that the English will evade the Irish difficulty -by some duplicity of the same nature. - -After passing my day in driving about, towards six o’clock I went and -sat in Hyde Park to watch the carriages and riders passing by. The -latter are much less well cared for than we are in Paris. That dear -Allée des Poteaux is replaced by a straight avenue, about a mile long, -bounded by rails. On each side there is a footpath, and beyond that a -road for the carriages. - -I think that the equipages are much less brilliant than formerly. The -number of imposing, fat, red-faced coachmen, with silk stockings and -powdered wigs, has certainly diminished. However, one still sees a good -many of those fantastic liveries in which Englishmen delight. There are -some in shot-colours; I saw one of pale green, with cuffs, facings, and -collar of red, braided with gold. I fancy, too, that the horses--at -least the carriage horses--are strikingly inferior to the former -standard. - -This is all easily explained. Here, as with us, if not the largest -fortunes, at all events the secondary incomes are seriously reduced. -Commerce is weakened, industry is declining, and agriculture is utterly -ruined. There are no English landowners who have not been obliged -to grant a reduction of 15, 25, and sometimes 50 per cent. to their -farmers; and it appears that in Ireland things are still worse. It is -quite natural that luxury should suffer from this state of things. I -hear that it must even be more affected by and by, and that if there is -still so much outward appearance of wealth, it is because people are -getting into debt. It is the same amongst us. - -Women leave their carriages, and walk on the paths, or pause in groups, -chatting with the riders as they pass. But if the horses have greatly -deteriorated I think that the dresses have considerably improved. Some -of them are charming. Æstheticism has disappeared, or nearly so. My -friend Mr. Burnand has very effectually caricatured its eccentricities -in _Punch_. But, since action always involves reaction, the fashion, -after going to an excess of poetry, is now inclined to fall into the -opposite extreme. Lady Harberton has invented what she calls a divided -skirt; it practically consists of Zouaves’ trousers. Another lady -proposes a Greek costume; not that of Venus, but the arrangement worn -by those antique statues that are really draped. A third suggests yet -another, which perhaps has more chance of being adopted by a certain -class, to whom it might be useful. There is but one button to unfasten, -and it falls off. It appears that all these ladies preach by example, -and have already a fair number of disciples. But I only quote what I am -told, for I have not been fortunate enough to have an opportunity of -judging the effect produced _de visu_. - -At seven I tore myself away from the contemplation of so much beauty, -and drove to Euston Station to catch the Dublin mail, which leaves -London at 8.20. Towards two in the morning we reached Holyhead, a -small island separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, which is -crossed by a fine bridge. The railway has been brought here because it -is the nearest point to Ireland, and also because this little island -contains a superb port, where vessels find excellent shelter from the -heavy seas of St. George’s Channel. I have rarely seen such fine ships -as the steamers which carry the royal mails. They should be taken as -models when it is decided to replace the tub-like boats still used -between Calais and Dover. The one that brought me over three days ago, -_The Maid of Kent_, was two hours crossing, although we had splendid -weather. The distance is twenty-one miles. This brings the speed up to -ten and a half knots an hour. The Holyhead packet reached Ireland from -England in three hours and a half, although it is sixty-three miles. -We therefore made sixteen or seventeen knots per hour--the speed of a -torpedo boat. - -Whenever I chance to be on a ship, I amuse myself with noticing the -changes that have taken place in maritime customs since the time--alas! -already far distant--since I first embarked. I can remember when -the old customs and bluff phraseology were still retained even in -the imperial navy. Commissioned officers scattered a number of very -picturesque expressions amongst their orders, which, although in all -probability religiously handed down from squadron to squadron since -the time of the Bailli of Suffren, would have made a grammarian -shudder at their formation. A hundred times I have heard midshipmen or -lieutenants shout to the men, “_Bande de soldats, vas-tu haler sur le -bras de misaine?_” Or conversations of this kind: “_Combien es-tu dans -la grand-hunc?_” “_Je suis cinq_,” replied a voice from above. “_Eh, -bien, reste deux et descends trois._” In moments of great excitement -it frequently happened that a middy, and often even an officer, lent -his aid in hauling in a rope, or to assist in a manœuvre, sending at -the same time a backhander across the face of some Parisian novice, who -pretended to haul and really did nothing. - -Then came the reaction. Old officers were accused of being too free and -easy. A new school replaced them who were stiff and formal in their -deportment; giving their orders in measured tones so that the boatswain -had to repeat them before they could be heard. At first this was -called _chic Anglais_, and some enthusiasts went so far as to command -in English. I knew at least two navy lieutenants, two brothers, who -would have fancied themselves lost had they shouted “_Amarrez_.” They -always said “_Belay_,” which is the English translation. - -But the English school triumphed. I am ready to acknowledge its -superiority even whilst I regret the picturesqueness of old times. -Our captain of the Holyhead steamer is a worthy representative of the -former. This morning he managed to get off without a single word, a -perfect triumph of its kind. - -It was only half past two, yet the dawn spread over the waters and -daylight appeared. We are five degrees farther north than Paris, and -this accounts for the short nights. The morning is splendid. In the -distance the horizon is clear, but behind us the English coast is lost -in a thick mist; its outline is only indicated by a succession of -lights that still shine against the sky. On the port side one of them -burns with marvellous brilliancy. - -The entrance to the harbour of Kingstown is extremely picturesque. I -only speak from hearsay. I had made the acquaintance of two or three -pleasant fellow passengers, and we had agreed to remain on the bridge -during the crossing, but at the first movement of the vessel one of -them left us; the two others held up for a little time but at last -they also disappeared. In ten minutes I was left alone, and preferring -to avoid the contemplation of the shapeless forms writhing on deck I -went to bed and enjoyed the sleep of innocence until a steward came -and warned me that we had reached the quay. I went on dock and found -most of the passengers already leaving the steamer. A short, extremely -ragged man was threading his way between the groups of passengers, he -wore long fair hair falling to his shoulders. I found that he was a -well-known character. He is a vendor of nationalist papers. Nothing -can be more amusing than the air of triumph with which he pushes the -_Freeman’s Journal_ or the _United Ireland_ in an Englishman’s face -shouting, “Buy the last speech of the Grand Old Man.” For over here -Mr. Gladstone is the “Grand Old Man” only. The _United Ireland_ is to -_Freeman’s_ what the _Intransigeant_ is to the _Temps_, or rather since -they are both very Catholic, what the _Univers_ is to the _Gazette de -France_. But even then the comparison is a little incorrect, for the -_Univers_, even in M. Veuillot’s day, never approached the violent -style of _United Ireland_. One of its writers indulged in a significant -freak the other day. Mr. Parnell advised the Land League not to make -itself conspicuous for a short time. For some reason they were anxious -to appease England a little. The _United Ireland_ published this advice -in the following words:-- - - - “THE CLOSE SEASON.” - - “ART. 1ST.--It is forbidden to shoot landlords.” - - -This was in the early days of the League, and its agents displayed the -zeal of all neophytes. I remember getting an idea of the state of this -country by hearing a conversation repeated that had taken place between -two Irish children who had come to Paris with their parents. They had -been brought to play with some children belonging to one of my friends. -As they reached the garden, the little boy--aged six--said to the -little girl of seven: - -“Wait a minute! I’ll show you a capital game. We’ll play at landlord -and tenant. You shall be landlord and I’ll kill you with my gun.” - -These were the ideas which a small Irish boy had imbibed from his -surroundings in the year of Grace, 1882, upon the normal relations -between landlord and tenant. - -It only takes half an hour to go from Kingstown to Dublin. When I -reached the station I had the pleasure of making acquaintance with the -jaunting car, the favourite carriage with the Irish, who often refer to -it in their novels. - -The jaunting car is certainly the strangest vehicle that an insane mind -ever conceived. The hansom, with its seat placed like a box behind the -hood, is sufficiently original, but when one has seen a jaunting car, -one begins to think that the cab is a rational conveyance. - -Evidently the first idea of the jaunting car suggested itself to an -ingenious man who found himself the owner of an old packsaddle and the -frame of a cart. To utilise these articles he put the saddle on the two -wheels and Erin was dowered with a jaunting car, the only one of her -institutions that the Saxon conquest has respected. - -The coachman seats himself on one side of the rolling saddle. In my -own case he placed my trunk next to him, I installed myself on the -other seat with my feet on a thin plank, which, in case of collision, -protects the wheels at the expense of the traveller’s legs, and we -started at a very good pace to my great satisfaction. - -I must own that I am delighted with this style of locomotion, which -resembles nothing found elsewhere. The Swiss carriages with side seats, -which were used a few years ago, are the only things I can compare -them to, and it was in one of those vehicles that the legendary -Englishman drove for three days round the Lake of Geneva, and then -inquired where the lake was; he had not seen it, for he was sitting on -the wrong side and his back was turned to it. - -My first drive in a jaunting car also proved to me that mechanical -laws are the same everywhere. The sentinel who guarded the gates of -the Louvre could not free our kings from their consequences, and in -spite of its power the Land League has no perceptible effect in this -direction. On this occasion at every corner I was seized by an almost -irresistible force, which, taking as its fulcrum the spot a little -below the loins, where Dr. Liouville places the centre of gravity in -the human body, threatened to throw me out upon the pavement. Thanks -to the studies of my youth I recognised in this impulse the force -which learned men call centrifugal, and defying its insidious attacks -I clung to the car with both hands, quite ignoring the fact that I was -outraging all sense of local etiquette. It appears that one must no -more cling to a car in turning corners than hold on by the mane of a -runaway horse. - -The first thing that strikes the attention of a stranger arriving at -Dublin is the tattered state of its inhabitants. When, owing to the -social and economical condition of a country, the majority of its -citizens are unable to afford themselves the luxury of even mending -their clothes, custom really ought to allow them to dispense with -garments entirely, at least in summer. It would be an act of charity -and every one would profit by it. On one hand the eye would not be -offended by the lamentable spectacle of an urchin who has but two -hands with which to hold the tattered fragments of stuff that once -formed a pair of trousers; on the other, the said urchin, freed -from his absorbing occupation, might perhaps do some work, which is -manifestly impossible now. I venture humbly to suggest this idea to -those conscientious philanthropists who seek every means of relieving -suffering humanity. But it is not only the street arabs that are -clothed in this way. The art of mending seems absolutely unknown here. -I am sure that I have not seen one person in ten whose garments are not -torn. My driver’s sleeve only holds on to the jacket by a miracle of -good nature, and his trousers are slit from the knee to the ankle. - -At every corner of the street one sees groups of women, their hair -falling round the face, their dresses, full of holes, only reach the -knees, leaving their incredibly dirty feet and legs visible below -their rags. In hot countries poverty matters little. At Cadiz, Naples, -and Cairo we see numbers of people who are certainly quite as poor as -these. But they do not look miserable. The sun supplies nearly all they -need. If it does not feed it comforts them. A Neapolitan _lazzarone_ -may only have eaten a slice of water-melon, but he looks satisfied. -Here, under the cold grey skies, in the muddy streets, these poor -creatures fill one with pity. The drawn faces, the hollow, brilliant -eyes, have a hungry look which makes my heart ache. - -I went and dressed at Shelburne House, the best hotel in Dublin, which -looks over Stephen’s Green, the Hyde Park of the Irish capital. I -then took another jaunting car and drove to the office of the _United -Ireland_. Most of the heads of the Irish movement are absent from -Dublin just now through the elections, but the newspaper editors are -naturally at their posts and I wish to make the acquaintance of the two -most important of them--Mr. O’Brien, editor of the _United Ireland_, -and Mr. Dwyer Gray, editor and owner of the _Freeman’s Journal_, to -both of whom I have letters of introduction. - -To-day the elections commence. I say commence, because in England -things are not managed in the same way that they are at home. When an -election is about to take place the Queen issues an official notice, -a writ, to each electoral division by a special officer. Committees -are then formed and each candidate must be nominated to the sheriff -within a given time by a specified number of the electors. At the same -time money for the purposes of the election must be placed in his -hands--such as placards, notices, &c. &c. Of course this sum varies, -with the number of voters, but it seldom exceeds more than 120_l._ or -160_l._ - -If at the expiration of the fixed term only one candidate has been -nominated there is no need to take a ballot. The candidate is declared -elected and the business is settled. If, on the other hand, and -naturally this occurs the most frequently, two or three candidates -have presented themselves in time, the sheriff fixes a date for the -election, which takes place by secret voting, in the same way as with -us, only in a polling booth. - -These formalities are all essential. The omission of a single detail -would render the election void. A certificate bearing the name of a -candidate who has not formerly deposited his nomination is of no legal -value and, the most singular thing is, that a member, whose election -was invalid, is at once replaced by his opponent. I must add that in -case of appeal, the cause is heard, not by Parliament, but in the -ordinary law courts. - -This legislation seems to me infinitely more reasonable than our own, -except in a few details. In the first place, it prevents the scandalous -invalidations which we see in France, and which are sure to occur when -they are pronounced by men who are both judges and partisans. The -idea of declaring a candidate elected because he has no opponent also -strikes me as a good one. It may not often happen in France, but it -sometimes occurs, and then what is the use of disturbing a hundred or -a hundred and fifty thousand voters, since the result is a foregone -conclusion and cannot injure any one’s interests? For if a minority -wishes to reckon its strength by rallying round a name, there is no -reason it should not announce its intention by a settled date. - -But these arrangements have only existed a few years. They put an -end to the formidable and legendary abuses of English elections. -They were also effectual in reducing the candidate’s expenses to an -enormous extent. An election amongst our neighbours is now far less -onerous than with us. When the last elections took place in France, the -conservatives spent about one franc upon every registered voter, and -in many departments the republicans far exceeded this amount, thanks -to the enormous sums placed at their disposal by the Government, sums -probably raised from the Tonquin grants. In England the authorised -expenses amount, according to the figures which have been given to me, -to fifty or sixty centimes (5_d._ or 6_d._) per voter. Now the electors -are less numerous than with us, for universal suffrage does not yet -exist, and it appears that these expenses are very little exceeded. - -I had the good luck to find Mr. O’Brien in his office with another -member of Parliament, who had also been elected without opposition. - -Mr. William O’Brien was born at Mallow, in 1852. His career has been -very eventful. After leaving the small college of Cloyne, where he had -completed his studies, he threw himself headlong into Fenianism, whilst -his brother, with a Captain Mackay, won a great reputation in the south -of Ireland by the audacity they displayed in attacking several police -stations, with the object of procuring arms for the insurgents. At -last they were arrested. This Mr. O’Brien died in prison of a chest -complaint, his death being hastened, so they say, by the governor’s -neglect. His father died on the same day--a singular co-incidence. - -William O’Brien then suddenly found himself at the head of a family, -but without any resources. A pamphlet that he published by Captain -Mackay’s advice, won him an appointment to the _Cork Daily Herald_, one -of the best papers in the south. In 1876 he came to Dublin, and was -attached to the editor’s staff of the _Freeman’s Journal_. There Mr. -Parnell found him in 1881, and placed him at the head of the _United -Ireland_, which was just being started as the Land League’s official -newspaper. - -Since this time Mr. O’Brien has waged perpetual war against England, -a war which has doubtless endeared him to his fellow-citizens, for -having succeeded, in 1882, in wresting, by 161 votes against 89, the -seat of Mallow from a Conservative; he has since that date always been -re-elected without opposition. - -No one can pass through a career like Mr. O’Brien’s without making -many enemies; but he must possess very fine qualities, for even his -bitterest opponents acknowledge the perfect respectability of his -life. In every one’s opinion he is a sincerely pious and exceedingly -charitable man. Nearly all the money he earns, and he earns a great -deal, is spent in good works. Last year, at the end of a political -lawsuit, his opponent was sentenced to pay him 1,000_l._ damages -and interest. With one stroke of the pen he gave it all to charity. -Physically he is rather a small, dark man, who looks older than he -is, in spite of the brightness of his eyes which shine through his -spectacles. He has all the appearance of an enthusiast, and I believe -that he is absolutely convinced of the justice of the cause that he -serves without a mental reservation and with the most absolute devotion. - -I will not record our conversation here, because it differed very -little from the conversations that I had with other chiefs of the Land -League. I prefer to discuss them all together and then sum up the -information that I have collected. If I do not make this rule I shall -repeat myself. When I left the office of the _United Ireland_, I was -driven to that of the _Freeman’s Journal_, where I saw Mr. Dwyer Gray. -Mr. E. Dwyer Gray is the son of a man who has played an important part -in the political history of contemporary Ireland, Sir John Gray was -the owner of the _Freeman’s_, which, even in his time, brought in, so -they say, 200,000 francs, 8,000_l._, per annum. When I remember the -trouble our papers have to pay their expenses I cannot understand the -financial prosperity of English and American journals. The _Freeman’s_, -which, after all, is only a small provincial newspaper, prints forty -thousand copies; its size almost equals the _Times_; it keeps a staff -of seven shorthand writers in London, who telegraph daily by a special -wire the debates in the House; it publishes very well written foreign -correspondence, yet it brings in a great deal more since it has been -in Mr. Dwyer Gray’s hands than formerly. He opened his political life -as a member of the Dublin corporation, then he became lord mayor, -and afterwards county Carlow returned him to Parliament where, as -a business speaker, he has won a good reputation amongst Parnell’s -colleagues. A converted Protestant, he represents a relatively moderate -element in politics as well as in religion. A few incidents in his -career deserve notice. In his relations with the Municipality he had -an opportunity of discovering the embezzlements of the infamous Carey, -afterwards so sadly notorious through first founding and then betraying -the Invincible Society which assassinated Lord Frederick Cavendish and -Mr. Burke in Phœnix Park, by stabs with a knife. Although Carey was -in the main a co-religionist, he did not hesitate to unmask him, and -even pursued him so energetically that, later on, during the trial of -the Invincibles, it was proved that they had once thought of ridding -themselves of him (Mr. Gray) by murder in order to avenge their chief. - -Unfortunately, just then the _Freeman’s_ was engaged in a particularly -violent series of articles against the Government, and on the -evening that preceded the tragedy, the paper contained an unlucky -phrase:--“There are rats in the Castle, which must soon be dislodged!” -In ordinary times no one would have noticed this; but political -passions intervened, and this phrase was at once connected with the -murders that followed it so closely, and the, at all events, moral -responsibility of the author was carefully pointed out. Is it -necessary to add that not one serious man ever attached the least -importance to these insinuations? - -I had spent some time in the office of the _United Ireland_, but I only -remained in the _Freeman’s_ a few minutes, for Mr. Gray, who was very -busy during the day, kindly invited me to spend the evening with him. I -had just seen the organs of what, in the secret government that Ireland -now obeys, corresponds with the legislative power; for the only laws -respected by the country are concocted in these two newspaper offices. -I have now to become acquainted with the executive power, _i.e._, the -ministers of the Land League; but I should first like to say a few -words about them. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - THE LAND LEAGUE--AN IRISH CONFESSOR--CAPTAIN BOYCOTT--A - CONSPIRATOR’S CAVE--MR. HARRINGTON--MR. BIGGAR--THE OBSTRUCTION - CAMPAIGN--MR. SULLIVAN, LORD MAYOR, POET, PATRIOT, STATESMAN, AND - DIVER--A ROUGH ELECTION MEETING--MR. SHACKLETON--A CANDIDATE’S - PROFESSION OF FAITH--PEMBROKE HOUSE. - - -We will first describe the origin of the Land League. To fully -understand the subject, we must first trace back Irish history to -the year 1847. At that time the population, which in 1845 numbered -8,175,124, had certainly attained, if not exceeded 9,000,000. Then -as now, we may say that no manufactures existed in the country. The -population lived on the direct produce of the land. The repeal of -protection on corn had caused the almost entire disappearance of -cereals, for which the soil, and above all the climate, were always -unfavourable, and consequently, only two possible industries were -left--stock raising (and this was chiefly pig raising), and the -cultivation of potatoes. The sale of pigs sufficed to pay the taxes, -the landlord, and the few necessaries bought by the people. The -potatoes were reserved for food. - -Suddenly the potato disease broke out. In a few days, of a harvest -which promised abundance, absolutely nothing was left, and by one -blow nine millions of people were left without anything to eat. This -is the simple history of the famine in 1847. And this history must -inevitably be repeated in every country that transforms its agriculture -into raising stock, and which yet aspires to support the same number -of inhabitants; for it is quite evident that a stock-raising country -cannot feed as many people as an agricultural one. - -This phenomenon had already happened in Scotland at the end of the last -century. The difficulty was solved by the emigration of large numbers -of the Highlanders from several counties. The same thing is now visible -in France; and if we have not yet encountered the same consequences, -it is because our peasants are living, and for some time can still -live, on their capital. In Ireland the people had no reserve fund. The -misery was therefore awful. One can hardly believe that such things can -happen in our century; but it is undeniable that thousands of miserable -people died of starvation in the midst of their fields, just as they -might have done on a wreck in the middle of the ocean. The official -statistics registered 6,058 deaths simply caused by hunger! And the -famine preceded, and was followed by an epidemic of typhus, which -killed thirty or forty thousand persons. - -It has been widely stated that the landowners behaved badly under the -circumstances; they are particularly reproached for having claimed -their rents in spite of their tenants’ terrible misery. But these -accusations have never been proved. The rents had been collected before -the famine began and at a time when no one could have anticipated -its occurrence. But here I will quote Mr. Sullivan, one of the most -advanced members of the Nationalist party, who says in reference to -this subject:-- - -“The majority of resident landlords really did all in their power. When -the famine appeared many landowners found themselves on the verge of -ruin. They had inherited property that was already heavily mortgaged. -The money paid for rent did not remain in their hands but went to pay -their creditors. The loss of a year’s rent brought them fatally near -seizure and bankruptcy. They knew this and yet it must be acknowledged -that a great many of them who might have escaped disaster by harshness -towards their tenants, preferred their own ruin.” - -The Government on its side was far from inactive. Works were opened -in all directions for the construction of roads, with the idea of -providing employment for the population, and so many were made that -they cannot be maintained, and yet at the present time I doubt whether -another country exists where roads are more numerous than in Ireland. - -I believe, therefore, it would be just to own that under the sad -circumstances, every one loyally tried to do his duty. It may be said -that the measures taken were insufficient or not cleverly managed, but -it must be remembered that the difficulties were immense, and there is -no proof that any other Government would have been more successful. - -However, the memory of this terrible episode has left ineffaceable -hatred in many minds. Still it did not explode at the time. From 1852 -to 1876, we may affirm that there was a very perceptible and continued -increase in the national prosperity of the country. One point should be -carefully noted, viz., that this increased prosperity coincided with an -enormous diminution of the population. We have seen that in 1845 it -numbered 8,175,124; it is estimated that in 1848 it would have reached -nine millions; in 1851 it was only 6,552,385; and in 1881, 5,173,836; -it should now be under five millions. In thirty years, emigration has -reduced the number from nine millions to five, that is by four millions -in round figures. This prosperity was rudely interrupted in 1877, and -once more the misfortune was due to a bad potato harvest. - -If Ireland had still contained nine millions of inhabitants, we should -certainly have seen a renewal of the scenes of 1847; but since she had -only five millions there was no famine, in the real sense of the word, -although the misery was very great; the farmers lost eight hundred -thousand pounds, and those who paid their rent could only do so by -borrowing the money. - -The harvest in 1878 was nearly as bad as the preceding one. The deficit -amounted to five hundred thousand pounds; the situation became more -strained. All the tenants were in debt, for in the preceding years -a number of banks had been established and had given them enormous -credit, and now this credit became more restricted. Many found -themselves on the verge of succumbing, and each one felt that if the -next harvest were not exceptionally good no one could escape ruin. -Anxiety was therefore at its height. And at this critical moment, in -April, 1879, the farmers in county Mayo were summoned to attend a -meeting that ought to have been held in Irishtown. The order of the day -only disclosed that its object was to study the situation. The notices -were signed by Mr. Michael Davitt. - -Mr. Michael Davitt was not quite unknown in the country: his father had -been a farmer there. Being unsuccessful in business, he was forced -to abandon his farm, and to go and live in England, where he only -vegetated. At eleven years old his son was already working in a cotton -factory; there one of his arms was cut off by some of the machinery. At -seventeen he had joined the Fenian conspiracy. In 1870 he was arrested. -The Fenians had blown up a prison wall to enable some of their number -to escape. Young Davitt, implicated in this affair through receiving -explosives, was sentenced to fifteen years’ penal servitude. - -However, he only remained in prison for seven years. In 1878 he -received what the English call a _ticket-of-leave_. The individual who -receives this ticket is set at liberty, but conditionally; he is still -under police supervision, and the Government has the right to imprison -him again without further trial until the end of his sentence. Mr. -Davitt’s case had been widely known. On the day that he returned to -Dublin with one of his fellow prisoners, liberated with him, 300,000 -persons waited for them at the station, and the impression produced was -rendered deeper and more lasting by this man falling dead through the -rupture of an aneurism as he entered the hotel where Mr. Parnell was -waiting for them. - -At this meeting at Irishtown the theory of the Land League was first -explained. Curiously enough, Mr. Davitt first thought of the idea, -but he did not make the first speech--he had missed the train, so -others opened the subject instead of him. In such a centre it could -not fail to receive an enthusiastic welcome. Thanks to an active -method of propaganda, it spread through the country so rapidly and so -successfully that a few months later Mr. Parnell summoned in Dublin a -meeting of delegates from all parts of Ireland, who were charged with -drawing up the statutes of the Association, which, under the name of -the IRISH NATIONAL LAND LEAGUE, was established on the 21st October, -1879. - -The general principles which were to guide the Association, are stated -in the following declaration:--The objects of the League are-- - - - I. To obtain a reduction of rack-rents. - - II. To facilitate the acquisition of the land by those who - cultivate it. - - III. To attain these ends the League will undertake-- - - 1st. To create an organisation which will bind all the tenants - together. - - 2nd. To defend all those who may be threatened by the landlords - with eviction from their farms, through refusing to pay - rack-rents. - - 3rd. - - 4th. Lastly, to neglect no opportunities of forcing Government - to pass laws allowing the tenant to become the owner of the - soil he cultivates, by means of the payment of an annuity, and - under the most favourable conditions possible. - - -The document was signed by Parnell, President; Patrick Egan, Treasurer; -Michael Davitt and Thomas Brennan, Secretaries. - -Scarcely launched, it required very little to make the League collapse. -Numerous meetings were assembled in all parts of Ireland for recruiting -adherents. Several orators, who were heard there, expressed such -advanced Socialistic opinions, that the clergy, who until then had -watched the proceedings without interfering on either side, now took -fright and protested loudly; one might have thought at one time that -war would break out. If the clergy had persevered in that attitude, -the League would probably have foundered; they would have conquered, -but the people’s minds were already so excited by the struggle that -the clergy must have compromised the preponderating influence that -they always possessed. Besides, the heads of the League hastened to -disown the imprudent words their representatives had uttered. But at -last the name of the Bishop of Cashel appeared one day in the list of -subscribers. All the prelates followed his example, and from that time -the success of the League was insured. - -The clergy have been much criticised for the position they then -accepted. I believe that on the whole it was politic, and has been -productive of good results. It may be considered extraordinary that the -clerical influence should be employed in the service of an association -which furthers its designs by the use of such violent measures; but we -must add, that the League would probably have been a thousand times -more violent had not the influence of the clergy been exercised over it. - -But we must not think that the Irish clergy were constrained and forced -by passing events to enter the Land League. Many of its members had -little difficulty in bringing themselves to join it. Amongst us the -clergy are chiefly recruited from the masses; but whilst on one hand -the Government pays their stipends, on the other they derive their -chief support from the upper classes. Being obliged to conciliate -so many interests or frequently opposing sentiments, they are quite -inclined to be extremely moderate. But in Ireland the position is -very different. The clergy are also nearly entirely recruited from -amongst the peasants and small farmers; but, since the upper classes -are Protestant there is no connection between them; nor even between -the priests and the Government, for the latter can do little either -for or against them. The priests have, therefore, all the instincts -of the people from whom they spring, and with whose destiny they -feel their own fate closely bound up. In the conditions of existence -under which they live no preponderating element can exist. Under the -French system there is a very moderate, but at the same time admirably -disciplined, clergy, because everything comes from those above them. -But these advantages are often gained at the expense of their influence -over the people, from whom they are too much separated. Under the -Irish system the clergy have, on the contrary, enormous influence, -and by which their incomes are affected, and they quickly realise -whether there is any danger of this influence being compromised. Only -it frequently happens, when the passions are greatly excited, that -instead of teaching the people the priests are obliged to follow them, -and discipline not having the material authority that it has with us, -these eager temperaments are only restrained by the hands of canonical -obedience, though at the same time these are usually sufficiently -powerful. - -We must not, then, be surprised if the parochial clergy, living in -the midst of a population that was unquestionably suffering great -hardships, and having no connection with the classes whom they consider -responsible for these sufferings, have thrown themselves into the -struggle with frequently exaggerated ardour, or what at all events -seems so to the French, who are accustomed to much more reserved -manners in our priests. Some of them allow their enthusiasm to attain -extraordinary dimensions. I was dining, quite recently, with one of -my relations; eight or ten persons were present, and one of them, an -Irish parish priest, was telling us something about the present state -of his country. Very intelligent and full of racy humour, he related -a number of anecdotes illustrative of the prevalent state of feeling, -each droller than the last, and above all full of local colour. He -particularly impressed upon us the sympathy of the clergy for the Land -League. - -“The other day,” said he, “one of my colleagues was playing billiards -with his vicar, when a message was brought to him that a man wanted to -confess to him in the vestry. He immediately went, took his place in -the confessional, and the man commenced the enumeration of his sins. - -“‘My father,’ said he, ‘I confess that three months ago I shot a man -and killed him.’ - -“‘Oh, oh!’ thought the priest, ‘this is a serious matter.’ - -“He still held the billiard chalk in his hand, and with it made a mark -on his left sleeve. - -“‘Go on, my son,’ he said aloud. - -“‘That is not all,’ stammered the man. ‘Two days later I shot Paddy -Ryan.... But I only wounded him.’ - -“The priest made a second mark on his sleeve, and repeated with a sigh: - -“‘Go on, my son.’ - -“‘Since that I have shot at Corney O’Sullivan, and then at Tim -O’Flaherty, and then again at Timothy O’Hagan.’ - -“The priest sprung up in his arm-chair. - -“‘Good heavens, my son! but what had all these men done to you that you -wished to hurry them into eternity? Who were they?’ - -“‘Oh, my father! they were all bailiffs or tax-collectors.’ - -“‘Idiot!’ growled the priest, furiously rubbing his sleeve. ‘Why didn’t -you say so before, instead of letting me spoil my best cassock?’” - -This story was much relished by the lay guests at dinner. It was less -appreciated by the ecclesiastics present. It is, however, unnecessary -to add that it was related as a good joke; but at the same time, we -quite understood that the joke was intended to give the key to the -present state of feeling amongst many of the Irish priests, and the -narrator added that he was himself the President of the League in his -district. - -When the League was once founded, it was forced to assert its power. It -was rendered particularly popular amongst the tenants, because it had -promised them, if not the abolition, at least the reduction of a great -portion of their rents. Now, the surest method of attaining this result -would be the suppression of competition, so that the landowners, once -convinced that if they withdrew the farms from their present tenants -they would have them left on their hands, should be forced to accept -all the terms their tenants liked to impose upon them. In a speech -spoken at Ennis on the 19th September, 1880, Mr. Parnell undertook to -point out by what means these results could be obtained. Here are his -words, which have since been frequently quoted by those who wish to -make him responsible for the storm they let loose. - -“Now, you will ask me, what must be done to a tenant who takes a farm -from which another man has been sent away?” - -_Several voices in the crowd_--“SHOOT HIM.” - -_Mr. Parnell_--“I think that some of you answer, ‘Shoot him!’ Now, I -will point out to you another method, which is much more certain, and -which has the advantage of being more Christian and more charitable, -for it gives the sinner time to repent. When a man has taken a farm -from which another has been unjustly driven out, you must, by your -conduct, wherever you meet him, by the isolation in which you will -force him to live, by treating him as formerly lepers were treated--you -must, I repeat, by all these measures, show him the hatred and contempt -you feel for his crime.” - -Historians relate that one day Harlequin gave his three sons two drums, -one large and one small one, and a pair of cymbals, telling them to -amuse themselves with their new playthings, but to be careful not to -make a noise. They add that, in spite of his instructions, his quiet -was rather disturbed. - -Mr. Parnell has unfortunately seen his counsel produce the same result -as those given by Harlequin. He exhorted the crowd by advising them -not to employ any but moral, charitable, and Christian measures. -The crowd obeyed his words, but his instructions were soon left far -behind. At that time, an ex-officer, Captain Boycott, after leaving the -service had settled in Ireland, near Lough Mask. He made agriculture -his business, and also managed estates. He had some difficulty with a -tenant, who would not pay his rent, and he wished to evict him. The -local committee of the Land League in his village, intimated to him -that if he did, it was at his own risk and peril. Naturally he ignored -this hint, and war was declared. - -The whole of Ireland watched this affair, with the greatest attention, -for they felt that the future of the Land League depended upon the way -in which it was settled. But every precaution was carefully taken, -every one of Captain Boycott’s servants left him the same day; he went -to the tradesmen in the small neighbouring town who usually supplied -the house, they all refused to serve him. He could not buy either bread -or meat at any price, and for some days he lived on potatoes that he -dug himself, whilst Mrs. Boycott milked the cows. - -The Land League had won the first battle. Public excitement was -intense. Threats having been uttered the Government sent a garrison to -the Captain, and he no longer ventured out without the protection of -four men armed to the teeth. Reporters from every Irish and English -newspaper followed him perpetually. Every morning the public learnt -that on the preceding evening the Captain, guarded by six constables -and accompanied by twelve reporters, had dug two dozen potatoes for -his breakfast. Then they were much interested in a field of beetroot -which ought to be taken up. In Ulster an association was formed, which -sent twenty-five Protestant labourers to his aid; the Government sent a -company of infantry to guard them, not only during their sojourn on the -estate, but also on their journey there and back. - -The beetroots were taken in, but the situation became more strained -every day. One fine morning it was found that all the cows’ tails had -been cut off during the night. The following week two or three bullets -whistled round the ears of the Captain and his escort Then, when they -wished to sell the famous tailless cows, no butcher in the country -would buy them. It was resolved to send them to the English market. But -the railway and steamboat companies were informed that they too would -be laid under an interdict, if they carried them, so they refused to -take them. However, the cows went, but a special boat, chartered by the -Belfast Association, was sent to fetch them. But it is really neither -pleasant nor lucrative to cultivate a farm under these circumstances. -The struggle assumed Homeric proportions. It had lasted for a month or -two when the landlords committed a great error. If they had combined -and subscribed eight or ten thousand pounds to enable the Captain to -carry on the war, they might have gained the upper hand, and the League -would never have recovered from the check; but they did not do it. -The Captain, who had shown marvellous courage, and who only wished to -continue his resistance, was abandoned to his own resources and was -forced to yield. At the same stroke the Land League triumphed, and the -English language was enriched by a new word. The verb ‘to boycott,’ -which expressed the action of interdicting any one, as Captain Boycott -had been interdicted, is now quite admissible. It is commonly used, not -only in conversation but also in judicial and parliamentary language. -For the Land League it was a party triumph. Questionable before this -event, it had now asserted its power so effectually that friends -and enemies were both forced to bend before it. From that day it is -incontestable that the Land League has been the _de facto_ government -in Ireland; at any rate it is the only one whose orders have never been -disputed. - -Like all truly great things, it has a very simple organisation. Every -parish has a committee elected by the unanimous suffrage of all its -adherents; that is to say, of everybody in it, for, in nine-tenths of -Ireland, there is not one man, above all in the country districts, who -dares to refuse joining the Land League, or who neglects to pay his -subscription regularly, although this is never less than one shilling -per month. The parochial committee elects a president, who is often the -parish priest, or even one of the vicars, if the priest is considered -too lukewarm. A county committee is in constant communication, on one -side with the presidents of the parish, and on the other with the -central committee, which meets twice a week at the central office of -the League at Dublin. No one exactly knows how much money is at the -disposal of this committee; but it must amount to a considerable sum. -On one hand the subscriptions are paid very regularly; on the other, -there is not an American city that has not its Irish committee or who -does not send subsidies. I do not know how much the subscriptions -amount to, but some one, whose information is thoroughly reliable, told -me that they had never received less than 4,000 dollars per week. - -But all these funds are used. The League is generous, and it pays well -for the services it receives. One day, three years ago, the Bishop of -Cashel proposed to offer a substantial testimonial to Mr. Parnell as a -token of their public appreciation of his work. A special subscription -was opened, which in a few days brought in 40,000_l._ - -The League first pays a number of agents, who constantly scour the -country to keep up the agitation; it subsidises a mass of newspapers, -and distributes a quantity of pamphlets. In the country, it has -recourse, above all, as a means of propaganda, to allegorical coloured -pictures. The _United Ireland_ has just published one which is already -seen everywhere, and which depicts Mr. Gladstone armed with an enormous -sabre, on which “Home Rule” is engraved, with which he is evidently -about to reduce to mincemeat a three-headed hydra, of which each -head has a strong likeness to either Mr. Chamberlain, Lord Randolph -Churchill, or Lord Salisbury. - -We must, however, mention that these funds are never used for election -expenses. The latter are covered by the production of a special -subscription. The _Parliamentary Fund_, which has already been able, in -the last few days, to send 1,000 dollars (200_l._) to every candidate -who includes Home Rule in his programme. I now approach a burning -question. For more than six years the League has governed Ireland. -Since Captain Boycott, many others have been boycotted, and these -interdictions, decreed by the Land League, have led to innumerable -agrarian crimes--that is to say, that a considerable number of men and -women have been assassinated for having infringed the orders of the -League. Sometimes it has been proved that between the murderer and his -victim some private hatred existed; but more often the assassin did not -even know him; the victim was pointed out, and he was paid to commit -the crime. Where did the money come from, and what part has the Land -League played in these sad cases? - -To answer these questions, we must first observe that agrarian crimes -have always been common in Ireland. It is a tradition amongst the -peasants that when tenants have to complain of the landlord, or of one -of his agents, they should subscribe a sum to offer to one of their -number, who undertakes to deal the blow, and is sure of his escape to -America. These peasant customs were honoured for a long time before -the Land League existed. It would therefore be unjust to say that it -created them. - -It is, however, very difficult not to accuse it of a large share of -responsibility for many of the crimes committed. Mr. Parnell, its -President, first invented and recommended boycotting. Now, boycotting -cannot exist unless it is effective, and it cannot be effective unless -all those who are charged with carrying it out are placed under strict -discipline. A rich man who is boycotted would evidently try to induce -the butcher or the baker to furnish him with provisions. He would, if -possible, offer them large sums to tempt them to yield. In order that -this butcher or baker should resist their offers, they must know that -their disobedience will expose them to serious danger. - -Boycotting, therefore, entails absolute discipline, and since there -can be no discipline without authority, it ends in intimidation. Now, -from intimidation to murder there is only one step. The facts prove it. -Mr. Parnell often repeats that the only day that he despaired of the -future, and was on the point of renouncing the struggle, was when he -received the news of the murders at Phœnix Park. This is very possible; -but still, Mr. Parnell cannot deny that his system could not work two -days if murders had not been committed. He blames the assassins, but -profits by their deeds. - -We must, however, acknowledge that the question can be looked at from -another side. It is certain that the Irish people are in a state -of war or of rebellion, whichever you like, against England. This -is incontestable. The war is carried on by extraordinary means, but -still it is war. Mr. Parnell is therefore the chief of a belligerent -army. He has regular troops: namely, the official agents of the Land -League; and then he has irregular troops, composed of men who all aim -at the same thing, but who will not submit to any discipline, and who -advance towards their end by whichever road they fancy will lead them -the most directly. In Italy, the Turcos committed some atrocities; -they willingly collected the ears of the Croates left dead or merely -wounded on the field of battle. These atrocities served to found the -legend which rendered them so formidable, and this legend in some -degree assisted to win the battle of Magenta. Marshal MacMahon was -absolutely incapable of cutting off an enemy’s ears whether he were -dead or wounded. He never gave any Turco the order to commit these -abominations; he would certainly have punished any man who did it in -his presence; but who can tell the influence these ears had upon the -battle of Magenta where the general found a field-marshal’s baton and a -coronet? - -But it is certain that side by side with the Land League there -are several secret societies existing, which have usually their -head-quarters in America. They are or were under the direction of -the notorious O’Donovan Rossa, and it is almost proved that these -societies instigate many of the crimes which are committed. But, even -whilst admitting, what I believe to be true, that the Land League never -directly recommends attempts at manslaughter or attacks on the person, -it can be reproached because it has hitherto expressed so very little -censure of such crimes after they have occurred. With the enormous and -varied resources at its disposal, it would be very easy for the League -to bring the guilty to justice, and by so doing it would completely -silence its accusers; but this it has never yet attempted. - -The office of the Land League is at 43, Upper O’Connell Street. Here I -must again make an observation: this street, one of the most important -in Dublin, is in reality Sackville Street. One day, on its self-created -authority, I do not know for what reason, unless it was simply to -assert its omnipotence, the League decided that it should bear the -name of the great Irish agitator. Since that event there is not a car -driver who does not pretend that he does not understand where you -mean when you ask for Sackville Street. I have been told this quite -seriously, but I have not been able to verify it as a fact; so that I -only mention it as a statement made to me. When I enter the office I -seem to be in a ministerial department. I was shown into a room where -five or six people were writing; one of them took my card, and asking -me to wait for his return, carried it to Mr. Harrington, the general -secretary. Busy men passed to and fro, with papers they had brought -for signature; an elderly white-haired man danced attendance with me. -We began to talk. He was an Australian doctor, who had brought funds -from a committee at Melbourne; I was at once filled with respect for -an establishment, where they even kept a man waiting who brought them -money. - -At last I was informed that Mr. Harrington could see me. I found him -in a large lofty hall ornamented with allegorical pictures; three or -four secretaries were seated round a table covered with a green cloth, -opening letters and coming forward every moment to ask for instructions -or to bring piles of telegrams, which arrive from all quarters. I -own that all this made me feel thunderstruck. Here is an Association -that openly conspires against the established Government, and that -everywhere declaims against its odious tyranny. And yet the offices -occupy a whole house within two steps of the Viceroy’s palace; it has -a badge over the door so that no one could mistake it, and a policeman -walks up and down the pavement to keep the carriages in their ranks. -What a difference between this imposing establishment and the dark -cave where all classical conspiracies are formed! And yet some people -deny that we are progressing! Unfortunately it appears to me that this -fact alone suffices for the undeniable condemnation of the English -Government. It asserts that these people are rebels and assassins. -How then can it allow itself to be defied by them in this way? The -first duty of every government is to carry out the law and to protect -peaceful citizens. When it does neither of these things it must be -nearly at its end, and it is even right to wish that its end may come -as soon as possible, in order to make room for another administration -which will better realise its duties. - -Mr. Harrington was born at Bantry, in the south of Ireland; four years -ago he superintended a local publication named the _Kerry Sentinel_, -and which naturally waged perpetual war against the English Government. -From time to time the Administration has spasms of severity which -are disastrous, because just as this severity is likely to become -efficacious it is abandoned for a return to gentler measures. - -One day it thought it desirable to prosecute Mr. Harrington, who had -not said one word more nor less than two or three thousand others had -said. He was sentenced to two months imprisonment and confined in -Mullingar gaol. Whilst working out his punishment he had an altercation -with the governor and was condemned to six days in the cells. This -caused some excitement. At the same time the member for Mullingar was -obliged to resign his seat, though I do not know for what reason, and -Mr. Harrington was thereupon elected in his place. - -I have had something to do with French conspirators, though as little -as possible, but still I have had some intercourse with them. They are -nearly all, physically as well as morally, rough and unwashed, clinging -to their principles as though they were stilts; in fact, insufferable. -There are a few amiable sceptics who shave and wash themselves -sometimes, but they do it with such visible affectation, that after all -when one meets them one begins to regret they are not like the others. - -The conspirators in this country appear to me a hundred degrees above -ours. They never shave, but that I believe is a professional necessity. -I have read in many classic works that the conspirators of former -ages had the habit of forging swords out of their chains. Since in -the present century chains are no longer used, they apparently forge -them out of the steel of their razors. You therefore never see a stage -conspirator without a formidable beard. All the Land Leaguers that I -have yet seen wear them; but their beards are well kept, and their -owners are as amiable and gracious as possible. - -Mr. Harrington is far from being an exception to this rule. When I -told him that I expected to visit first the south of Ireland, his -own county, he hastened in the kindest way to place himself at my -service, and offered to give me all the letters of introduction that -I could possibly require; he particularly promised me one for the -local president of the Land League, at Castle-Connell, a letter, which -could, if necessary, be used as an introduction to all the others. He -at once dictated what was requisite to one of the secretaries, who a -few minutes later brought the letter for his signature. It was written -on magnificent crested paper with quite an official appearance. At our -Admiralty, the chief of the staff always conducted his business in a -similar style. I certainly am in a minister’s office. - -From time to time some political notoriety came in to inquire what -was going on, and I was fortunate enough to be introduced to two of -them--men of whom I had often heard. - -The first was a small deformed man with sparkling eyes. This was Mr. -Biggar, formerly a bacon factor in Belfast, who, having launched -into politics, has become the _fidus Achates_ of Mr. Parnell and -his friends, and one of the creators of the well-known “sore” (I -cannot find any more suitable expression) that is usually called the -Obstruction campaign. - -In 1881, the Government, seized with one of those paroxysms of firmness -to which I have already referred, and wishing to re-establish a little -order in Ireland, demanded from Parliament, not the proclamation of -a state of siege, but simply powers which would enable them to act -rather more rapidly than the ordinary form of procedure would allow -of. This is what is meant by the _Coercion Bill_. Mr. Parnell and his -friends, whom it was really intended to affect, were naturally anxious -that this bill should not pass; but, being only a very small minority, -they had no regular means of checking or preventing its progress. They -therefore had recourse to tactics, which they had already used on -different occasions, but in a less complete way. In the absence of any -written rules, the English Parliament only obeys traditional customs. -One of these customs is, that when a member is speaking he can continue -as long as he likes, and an adjournment cannot be moved before all -the members have spoken who have in writing given notices of their -intention to move amendments. - -At this time there were eighteen Nationalist members in the House. -It was arranged that each of them should propose an amendment on -every clause, and that each of them should not only support his own -amendment, but also the motions of the other seventeen, each member -speaking as long as his strength would allow. They had already tried -this little game in 1877, and they had succeeded in making one sitting -last twenty-four hours consecutively. - -But they were determined to do better next time, and they kept their -word. They commenced by protesting against the mere idea, that the -state of Ireland justified the adoption of special measures; they -asserted that far from getting worse, the situation was visibly -improving; every one must know that in December, 1880, there were -867 agrarian crimes; but in January, 1881, there were not more than -448. And what crimes! In the first fortnight of the year, there was -not a single murder. It was true that four houses had been attacked; -two men had been shot at, but they were not hurt; only one person -had been rather seriously beaten, but it was not even suggested that -his life was in danger! It must be remembered that all this was said -quite seriously. I have copied these details from a book that Mr. -Gray recommended to me for its veracity, and which was written by Mr. -O’Connor, one of his parliamentary colleagues, the title of the book -is _The Parnell Movement_. The discussion thus commenced was continued -in the same tone; an Irish member rose and proposed an amendment, -no matter what it was, then he commenced to speak on no matter what -subject. One of them recited some verses, another commenced to read -an old collection of laws. In England Parliament sits in the evening; -a sitting commenced on Monday evening was prolonged through the whole -of Tuesday and far into Wednesday night. The two parties had organised -relays; on each side of the House only twelve members were left lying -on the benches, and the sole interruptions they offered to the orator, -was the sounds of their snoring; one old member being rather delicate, -brought a blanket for the second night. - -Irish eloquence still flowed on. At a quarter to five on Wednesday -morning, Mr. Sexton began to speak, and continued his speech until -twenty minutes to eight o’clock. Mr. Leamy replaced Mr. Sexton; then -followed Mr. Biggar, who had been home to bed and had just come back. -He commenced his speech by saying, with a pleasant smile: “Perhaps I’m -trespassing on the patience of the House.” - -Some one, who had just awakened, replied as he stretched himself: - -“No, no!” - -And, encouraged by these friendly words, Mr. Biggar continued. - -But at nine o’clock A.M. the Speaker entered. During the night a -meeting of principal members of the Tory Opposition had been convened -by the Government. They all agreed that it was high time to end the -scandal, and having arranged the course to be pursued, the members were -hastily summoned by the Whips, and re-entered in crowds. - -Mr. Biggar still went on; but the Speaker, without apparently noticing -that he was speaking, suggested that the House should adjourn. - -Mr. Biggar uttered cries of “Shame,” “Order,” &c., but the Nationalists -were not then present in force. Mr. Parnell himself was absent. The -adjournment was moved amidst the hurrahs of the whole House, and Mr. -Biggar was forced to content himself with calling upon the people to -witness the abominable tyranny of which he was the victim. - -The eighteen endeavoured to re-commence that evening; but at the first -words pronounced by one of them, the House rose in a body and voted for -their expulsion. - -All this is certainly very droll; but what can be gained by these -childish tricks? The Irish demand the establishment of a National -Parliament at Dublin. What will they do if the Protestant members -from Ulster use towards the majority the same tactics they--the -minority--have so constantly employed in London? Many of them dream -of the establishment of a Republic. They need only cross over to -France to see how Republican assemblies treat the representatives of a -minority. Under the first Republic they guillotined them purely and -simply. In our days, they have invented special bye-laws for their -benefit. Perhaps in a few months Mr. Biggar will preside over an Irish -House of Commons. It will be curious to see how he will deal with -obstructionists. - -The other politician to whom I had the honour of being introduced -during a visit to the offices of the Land League is Mr. Sullivan, the -Lord Mayor of Dublin. Mr. Sullivan, a tall, thin, elderly man, with a -proud intelligent face, is an author. It is said that he has published -a volume of poetry, which was a great success. Unfortunately, I have -not read it. - -How different public customs are in this country from our own! A -morning paper related that yesterday the Lord Mayor, accompanied by -the Town Clerk and a deputation of eight members of the Corporation, -went to open some public baths that the Town Council have just built -in Tara Street. The inauguration was thus completed:--His Lordship -having considered it was part of his duty, took a header into the -bath; Mr. Beveridge, the Town Clerk, did the same; then these two -gentlemen challenged each other, and the enthusiastic crowd watched -a most interesting swimming race. Was the Town Clerk only a base -flatterer? I cannot say. But, at all events, the Lord Mayor won by a -length. The _Freeman’s_, which complacently reported this exploit, has -unfortunately omitted some of the details we should like to have known. -Did the Lord Mayor take off his curled wig? Did he wear drawers of -the national colour? And was there a white harp to relieve the green -foundation? Why did not the mace-bearers follow their chiefs? This -would all be interesting information, which he should have given; yet -the writer of the article has neglected to mention these details. - -I had a long conversation with one of these diving magistrates. -Unluckily I could not congratulate him upon his aquatic success, for I -did not hear of it until after our interview. From him, too, I asked -for an explanation about the real grievances of Ireland against the -present government by England; I say _present_, because I quite admit -the validity of old complaints. I am absolutely convinced that in the -last and even in the commencement of this century, England treated -Ireland abominably. The stories of confiscation do not touch me at all; -they happened from four to eight hundred years ago. If it is still -maintained that a title of four hundred years is not sufficient to -constitute a right of ownership, it would become necessary to search -for the titles of the people who were then dispossessed, and this might -take us some time. Had I lived in the time of the French Republic, or -even of the Empire, it would have been my pleasure and my duty to send -a bullet through the head of the man who had bought my family property -from the nation; but I can now look at their descendants without any -rancour, because everything ends in this world. - -But to return to Ireland. I ask every one what are the actual -grievances, and in what way can _Home Rule_ ameliorate the situation? -Here are the exact words in which the Lord Mayor answered this question: - -“For a long time Mr. Gladstone, the grand old man, has felt what we -needed in Ireland. And this is why the Tories (who hate us) are so -indignant with him, that if to-morrow a tiger were to escape from a -menagerie and to devour him; there is not one Tory who would not -exclaim ‘Thank God!’ - -“At last he has found courage to say aloud that which he has always -really thought--we require _Home Rule_; and now, thank God, we shall -get it! - -“You say: But why should it be to England’s interest to see Ireland -unprosperous? That is true. But would you like to be governed by -Prussians? God never intended that one nation should submit to another! -This is so true that a conquering nation, merely from the fact that it -has conquered, is powerless to do good! - -“But we certainly do not anticipate that Ireland will attain prosperity -in one day, solely because it is governed by Irishmen. England has -killed all our industries; we require time before they can be revived. -We may perhaps make some mistakes. But whilst waiting for prosperity we -shall bear our sufferings and our poverty more cheerfully, knowing that -the amelioration of our fate only depends upon our own exertions. - -“And besides this, the mere fact of the proclamation of Home Rule would -have considerable influence over our material prosperity. You Frenchmen -have no idea of the cavilling fiscal spirit which animates the English -administration. All our towns are in a state of tutelage; our smallest -expenses must be authorised; a special law is required before a loan -can be raised, and the charges for the formalities that must be gone -through before these laws can be obtained, are so high, that the cost -is at once augmented to a disastrous extent. - -“I can quote a recent instance of this. A short time ago we wished to -lay water on to the town. The estimate was for 21,000_l._ Before we -could obtain the necessary Act we had to spend 9,000_l._ in London. - -“Even whilst admitting that quite as much might have had to be paid -in any other country, at least the money would have remained in the -country, whilst now, this 9,000_l._ only enriched the London barristers -and lawyers, and was quite lost to Ireland.” - -I trust that Mr. Sullivan will forgive me for saying that his first -sentences reminded me of Victor Hugo’s style. The others contain an -objection that may be well grounded up to a certain point. - -Yet I am struck with two things. In the first place, I never heard -the English administration blamed for excessive centralisation before -to-day. I always thought that, on the contrary, its chief failures were -due to excessive decentralisation. But in return I quite believe it to -be, if not venal, at all events very expensive. In England everything -is made an excuse for a fee, a word which means emolument, but which -also slightly conveys the sense of “_tip_.” Amongst us, officials are -absolutely prohibited from accepting anything whatever from the public. -In England it is quite understood that, besides their salaries--which -are very handsome--it is even legal that officials should claim -remuneration for services, which, according to our notions, should be -quite gratuitous. - -This remark even applies to officers! Some years ago I saw the captain -of an English merchant vessel come on board a French man-of-war, and -ask permission to compare their chronometers with ours. The officer in -charge of the watch hastened to render him this small service, and was -quite astonished when, after the examination was over, the Englishman -gravely handed him a sovereign, whilst the Englishman appeared still -more surprised when the Frenchman refused the money rather hastily. -It seems that English officers consider gratuities are perfectly -legitimate. - -Another instance happened at Shanghai. The Taïping army menaced the -city. The bankers fearing a night attack asked the French and English -captains to take charge of their cash on board in order that it might -be safe; a favour that was at once granted. Only, when after some days -all danger was past and the bankers sent for their money, those who had -confided it to the English men-of-war were quite surprised to receive -with it a rather heavy bill. - -There is neither robbery nor even indelicacy in all this, for it is -quite openly done. Still a French officer who acted in this way would -be boycotted by his comrades and brought before a court-martial by his -minister. I only quote these incidents to show how much the English -views upon many points differ from our own, and to explain how with -such a well-established system of fees the smallest step may become -onerous. - -However, to return to the Lord Mayor’s business; it seems to me -preposterous that 9,000_l._ should have to be expended before -permission to spend another 21,000_l._ can be obtained. With us, this -permission would be only too easily granted gratuitously, particularly -if it referred to the formation of an Academic group. It is certain, -that if the Irish must give 9,000_l._ to barristers, it would be -better, for the welfare of their country, that this substantial -windfall should fill Irish pockets instead of benefiting English -counsel as it now does; and the Irish expect to attain this result -by having a Parliament of their own at Dublin. But why should it be -necessary to spend 9,000_l._? It seems to me, that by changing the -method of procedure, by making it resemble ours, for instance, economy -could be easily secured. The Lord Mayor’s argument proves that there -are reforms to be made, and this no one denies; but they do not prove -that in order to make these reforms it is indispensable to go as far as -separation. - - - “Ce n’était pas la peine, - Non, pas la peine assurément, - De changer de gouvernement,” - - -says worthy Madame Angot, who was certainly no fool. - -Whilst making these reflections _in petto_, I took leave of his -lordship, who is more perfect than good King Henry himself, for, -according to the old song, he had only three accomplishments, whilst -the _Freeman’s Journal_ unhesitatingly attributes four to Mr. Sullivan, -since in the article I alluded to just now his position as a “diver” -is established, and he is also called the “poet,” “patriot,” and -“statesman” several times. He looks a thoroughly honest man, and yet -the information that he gave has not explained Home Rule to me. - -The remainder of my day was spent in several other calls, which I -will mention in their proper place. They gave me an opportunity of -exploring the city, which seems immense. In reality it has 249,000 -inhabitants. The streets are superb and relatively clean; there are -several fine monuments, and one or two charming parks; but the city -is spoilt by the miserable expression worn by every one I meet. When -I ended my conversations with the chiefs of the Land League, I felt -almost converted to English doctrines; but the sight of these miserable -faces drew me back to the Land League. It is really impossible to -leave things as they are. When, during the day, I saw people who had -evidently neither breakfasted that morning nor dined the day before, -and who had absolutely no reason for supposing that they would be -more fortunate to-morrow, it seemed incredible, and I could not help -remembering the contemptuous air which Englishmen assume when they -allude to what passes in view on the Continent. - -Mr. Gladstone’s first political action was a letter in which he -denounced King Ferdinand of Naples to all Europe. This document said -that he deserved to lose his crown because he did not know how to -govern his people. I do not see that Mr. Gladstone has succeeded much -better. It is not enough to blame others; one must do better oneself. -I have seen all the worst parts of Naples; I have seen the _ghetto_ -at Rome; both are, or rather were, charming localities if we compare -them to a part of Dublin that I passed through to-day, called the -“Liberties.” The only liberty that seems left to the inhabitants is the -liberty of remaining unwashed and of dying by starvation. This district -was peopled by a colony of French Huguenots, who introduced the poplin -industry, which has now almost disappeared, but which at one time -employed four thousand workmen. If these unfortunate people whom I saw -this morning are really the descendants of our fellow-countrymen, I can -only advise them to try a second emigration. I quite understand that -the results of the first may not encourage them to attempt a second, -but they have nothing to lose by a change now. - -Here we see the great misfortune of this country. No industry that has -been established here has been able to last: there is neither coal nor -iron. How can they compete with England under these circumstances? - -When I say that all industries have collapsed I am mistaken. One of -them is a great success. It belongs to Mr. Guinness, a brewer, whose -establishment now occupies nearly one district in the west of the -city, on the banks of the river, with which it communicates by means -of a tunnel made under the quay, which serves for the delivery of the -barrels of beer on to the barges anchored in the muddy bed of the -Liffey. - -What an illusion the Liffey is! From the treacherous words of the Irish -poets I had expected to find a superb river. I only saw a filthy ditch. - -Mr. Guinness’s industry only prospers because everything that these -unfortunate people earn is spent in drink. The Catholic priests, in -spite of all their influence, cannot eradicate the vice of drunkenness, -which is so deeply rooted in all northern populations. To-day, -whilst passing through a fairly important street, I noticed a house -with _Temperance Hall_ painted in large letters above the door. In -the window were hanging publications and pictures antagonistic to -insobriety. But on the steps lay an old woman who had fallen there -quite tipsy. Her grey hair fell over her stupefied face. One could see -her skeleton legs through the holes in her dress. A younger woman, -probably her daughter, a little more sober, but still scarcely able -to stand, tried to persuade her to continue on her way. The old woman -would not listen, but rolled helplessly on the pavement. At last the -woman staggered off. What an eloquent commentary upon the sermons -placed in the shop-window! - -Two election meetings are announced for to-day. Mr. Gray is to speak at -the first, which will be held in the city: but as I had told him that I -should be delighted to see an election where a little noise was made, -he advised me not to attend his, but to go instead to the one that -would be held in the Town Hall at Rathmines, a large borough in the -outskirts of Dublin, where they expect rather a tumult. Yesterday there -was a very stormy meeting at the University, which returns two members. -The Nationalist candidate, who, it is admitted, has not the shadow of -a chance, was very badly treated by the students. They threw at him a -dead cat, seventeen rotten eggs, one of which broke in the face of a -courageous lady who had accompanied him on to the platform, and such -a number of cabbage stalks that the most conscientious reporters were -forced to give up the attempt to count them. At last he was forced to -beat a retreat. - -Now, it appears that the students, proud of their success yesterday, -intend trying to disperse the meeting at Rathmines, or, at least, to -make a disturbance there. Everything, therefore, points to an evening -full of incident. It will be rendered doubly interesting because it is -organised by the “Protestant Home Rule Association,” that is to say, -by the few Protestants in the country who have joined Mr. Parnell--by -the way, he is a Protestant himself--and who have now entered on the -campaign in favour of Home Rule. They declare that, far from being -alarmed, as the English often assert that they are, at the idea of -being abandoned to the Catholics without some protection, some of the -Irish Protestants are so convinced of the sentiments of justice and -benevolence, or at least of tolerance, which animate the majority of -their fellow countrymen, that they are among the most eager to demand -separation. - -A jaunting-car conveyed me in less than half an hour to the door of a -very simple building, which is the Town Hall of Rathmines. If England’s -tutelage, complained of by the Lord Mayor, has only the effect of -recalling to the minds of the municipal architects the simplicity of -style they so frequently lose sight of at home, this tutelage can -scarcely be considered absolutely injurious. The street is already -blocked by the crowd. Apparently the police are under the impression -that there will be some work for them, for a hundred policemen are -grouped in one corner, ready to interfere when necessary, but content -to look on for the present. Some strong young men wearing a green -badge, act as stewards and guard the doors. Every one desiring to -enter must show a personal invitation. These cards have been sent out -during the day. I have only an envelope signed by Mr. Gray. At first, -therefore, I encountered some difficulties, because the signature was -almost illegible; but as soon as it was recognised, one of the stewards -gave me a formidable slap on the shoulder, exclaiming: “Bedad, sorr, -with that name there isn’t any door in Ireland that wouldn’t be open to -you!” - -I explained to him that for the moment my sole ambition was to find a -place where I could see well, and above all hear well. My friend at -once told me to follow him; pushing through the crowd like a boar, -hustling every one that stood in his way, and in five minutes I find -myself on the platform, two steps from the president, and quite close -to a window; a very advantageous position, because, first of all, I -could get a little air, and secondly, if the tumult became too serious, -a small jump of seven or eight feet would enable me to gain a small -side lane; and this I determined to do, if necessary, without the -least hesitation, for it would be too stupid to allow myself to be -knocked down by a Nationalist, wounded by a student, or simply led off -to the station by a policeman, all for the honour of “Ould Ireland,” -although my martyrdom could not help her in any way. - -When I had once formed my plan of campaign, I began to look about me. -There was evidently electricity in the air. The hall could hold about -three or four hundred people; a hundred-and-fifty or two hundred were -crowded in a small gallery above the door, yet formidable pressure -still took place from time to time, and on each occasion a fresh stream -of people penetrated into the hall, and the new arrivals pushed forward -against those who had entered before them. It was intensely hot, and -already a good many present had taken off their coats. In order to -pass the time they yelled out a patriotic song, commencing with _God -Save Ireland_, which was accompanied from the street by an orchestra -composed of five or six fifes and as many drums. - -A few minutes later, a grey-haired gentleman rose quite near to me and -advanced to the front of the platform, where he was joined by a short, -deformed man with long hair. I don’t know where he came from. Instantly -there was a great silence, and the former bowed to the assembly. - -“Gentlemen,” said he, “seconded by my friend, Mr. Shackleton,”--Mr. -Shackleton--that was the little hunchback--bowed, in his turn, so -low that his hump appeared higher than his head. The applause was -enthusiastic. Evidently this is an important personage. He is the -second hunchback I have seen in the Land League. Mr. Biggar, like -Æsop, had only one hump; this man has two, like Punch. The tall speaker -is called Mr. Alfred Webb. He continued: - -“Seconded by my friend Abraham Shackleton, and in the name of the -_Protestant Home Rule Association_ I wish to ask your support for our -candidate, Sir Thomas Esmonde, Baronet, who already represents the -electoral division of South Dublin.” - -This declaration was received with a tremendous noise. Every one stood -up, hats flew into the air, or were waved at the end of enormous -blackthorn sticks that are here called shillalahs, mouths opened like -ovens, and gave vent to hurrahs that made the hall shake. The voters -in the gallery thumped with all their force on the wooden balustrade, -making it resound like a drum. My eyes were fixed on a short man, -standing in front of me; he shouted and gesticulated so violently that -I expected he would be seized with an epileptic fit. After a moment he -evidently broke something in his throat, for with a despairing gesture -he indicated that his voice would not come again, and, red as a tomato, -he sank upon a bench to recover his strength. - -The same accident probably happened to several others, for comparative -silence ensued. Unfortunately, some one took advantage of it to cry: -“Boys! Three cheers for the Grand Old Man!” - -The “Grand Old Man” is Mr. Gladstone. Some years ago they called him -“the old scoundrel.” Now he is called the “Grand Old Man” but the usual -pronunciation is not sufficiently emphatic. It must be pronounced very -slowly: g-r-r-r-r-and, with four or five r’s, ôld with three circumflex -accents on the ô, and two on mân. Any other pronunciation lacks -respect. - -The quite novel idea of cheering “the Grand Old Man” made every one -recover his strength. One gentleman in the gallery gave the signal by -attempting to demolish the balustrade with his shillalah and the nine -hurrahs broke out like a peal of thunder. Their enthusiasm was so great -that when it ended one voice cried, “Once more,” and they recommenced. - -But human strength has its limits, and I saw with pleasure that they -were nearly exhausted. The second volley of hurrahs is not so hearty as -the first. At last their throats could only utter inarticulate sounds; -in spite of the efforts betrayed by their distorted features aphony was -rapidly approaching. - -The orators grouped near to me on the platform evidently awaited this -result. One of them rose and began to speak. He first alluded to the -meddling of the Court with the elections. He had scarcely launched into -his subject before a young man suddenly rose at the back of the hall. -“Long live the Queen! Down with the rebels!” he cried in a clear voice. -Two or three other voices responded. It was the students who had just -entered, but their arrangements were badly planned. Their adversaries -had taken every precaution, and very few students had succeeded in -slipping into the room. - -The tempest was unchained, a forest of cudgels waved overhead. The -students made an heroic defence, but in less than a minute they were -overpowered, picked up and thrust out amidst growls resembling those of -wild beasts. - -However, the affair was not yet over. In the streets their friends -attempted a diversion. The music which had recommenced ended in a -despairing scream. A heavy blow had broken one musician’s instrument -in his face and the others took to flight. Some curious fights took -place under my window; the combatants, so far as I could judge, seemed -to display very serious and profound knowledge of the principles of -the noble art of boxing, for in the twinkling of an eye I saw two -or three noses broken. “A very illigant foight! Is it not, sorr?” -said one of my neighbours, addressing me; he evidently considered it -would be a personal favour if I declared myself anti-nationalist so -that he might have the opportunity of commencing an equally “illigant -foight” with me. I took care not to give him this satisfaction; on -the contrary, I declared that I thought the fight most “illigant.” I -begin to understand Irish very well, and even to speak it a little; -it suffices to change most of the e’s into i’s and all the i’s into -oi’s--for instance one must never say Ireland but “Oirrlande.” With -these precautions progress is very rapid. - -The students are decidedly not in force. In less than five minutes -the incident is over, every one returns to his place, and the orators -peacefully continue their speeches. - -Most of them say very little; they are only the supernumeraries, the -important topics are reserved for a little later on. The appearance of -the hall is the interesting and instructive spectacle. The meeting is -evidently composed of men belonging to the lower middle class; they are -shopkeepers or clerks. There are a few torn jackets, but very few; in -such an assembly one ought to find comparative moderation, but on the -contrary, all these men seem really and unquestionably exasperated. -When, just now, the students shouted “Long live the Queen,” and when -since that an orator has pronounced her name, hisses and groans were -heard on all sides. I consider this is one of the most serious aspects -of the situation. Mr. Gladstone, once a constitutional minister, has -assumed a revolutionary attitude; he has stripped the throne of its -“divinity,” the name of the Queen is now treated with more contempt -than the names of her ministers. The speakers, to do them justice, -make no effort to excite this feeling; they constantly refer to _Home -Rule_, but when they allude to the idea of absolute separation, or -to a republic, they do so in terms which indicate that they will not -even honour the question by discussing it. Do orders, resulting from -political calculation, produce this state of things, or does it proceed -from real conviction? I cannot tell, I can only state the fact; but -I must also own that their contemptuous words were not echoed by the -crowd. At last the candidate rose. Sir Thomas Esmonde is quite a young -man, it appears that he is twenty-three, but he does not look more than -eighteen or twenty. It is said that his fortune is very much reduced, -and his family, which is far from adopting the same political views, -and which now refuses to meet him, explains that it is with the hope of -recovering his position that he has thrown himself into the arms of the -League with so much enthusiasm. - -This is another sign of the times. Formerly in England political -opinions had no influence over social relations. It is said that a few -years ago when Mr. Labouchere, widely known as the editor of _Truth_, -was presented to the Prince of Wales, he, with an amiable smile said, -“No doubt your Royal Highness is aware that I am a red republican.” -This is quite possible in a country where the theories of social -distinction not only have never been practised, but even seem never -to have any chance of being applied. In an English drawing-room one -may come into pleasant intercourse with a gentleman who explains that -the landowners should be deprived of their property and that their -throats should be cut on the altar of the country; because in England -this has never happened, and until lately no one saw that there was any -possibility of it happening. In France for a long time these encounters -have been most disagreeable, and in Ireland I am led to believe that -the people begin to avoid them. I am told that Sir Thomas Esmonde is -“cut” by the society that he frequented before he entered political -life. - -However, they have not yet reached the odious personalities which too -often dishonour our election struggles; and, I notice with pleasure, -that the candidate’s first phrases are devoted to saying in a few words -that he considers his opponent, Mr. Todhunter Pym, a perfectly honest -man, and that he delights in recalling the services rendered by his -father. I always acted in this way in our election meetings, and I -can recollect the stupefied expressions of our adversaries’ partisans -and the alarmed faces of our own when they heard me break through old -traditions in such a fashion. - -Otherwise I am bound to say that the shadow of the illustrious Grattan -does not seem to inspire his descendant. If the truth must be owned, -the honourable candidate stutters a little and consults some papers, -which contain his improvisation, a little unreasonably. This is perhaps -excusable because his speech bristles with figures. Beyond this it -contained nothing very new. - -Ireland has always been oppressed. All its industries have been -successively sacrificed to the Machiavellian calculations of the -English; first the silk manufactures, then the cotton have disappeared. -Only agriculture remains. Now agriculture itself is threatened; it is -dying of anæmia. Every year it pays nearly seventeen million pounds in -rent, of which six millions are spent abroad by landowners who never -visit Ireland. The country is therefore impoverished every year to the -extent of six million pounds. How can it resist such a drainage! - -“It is said that emigration is the only cure for the misfortunes of -Ireland. On the contrary, emigration is killing her. In the first -place, it is not true that she is too populated. Italy has 239 -inhabitants per square mile”--(Oh! Sir Thomas! how wrong it is to -juggle with figures in that fashion! You are quoting the statistics -of Milan and Lombardy. If you took those of the Pontine Marshes or of -Calabria, I think your argument would fall to pieces)--“Germany has -201; Holland, 181; France, 180; and Ireland only 169. And yet Ireland -is much more fertile than England, or than most other countries.” (Oh, -Sir Thomas!) - -And then he added, “We suffer from a want of capital. Now at least -four million Irishmen have emigrated in the last thirty years. Each -man has spent at least 6_l._ on his voyage, this therefore amounts to -twenty-four million pounds sterling, which Ireland has lost through -emigration.” (Really, Sir Thomas, you are making fun of your audience! -For one Irishman who has gone straight to America, ten have gone to -England first, in search of fortune. Now whilst admitting that the -emigrants to America have each spent 6_l._ on their journey, and this -is far from true, for the ship companies take a whole family for -6_l._, a great many of them have simply spent four or five shillings in -reaching the English coast. I think that if you reduced your numbers by -seven-eighths you would perhaps be a little nearer the truth.) “Now if -Ireland had retained this twenty-four millions, her agriculture would -be flourishing and prosperous.” - -The last few sentences particularly called forth immense enthusiasm. - -“Gentlemen,” said he, “it is a solemn hour. This is the last time that -I shall solicit your votes to send me to London. In a few months you -will be called upon to vote again, and this time to return me as your -representative to our national Parliament in Dublin. My election is not -doubtful; but it is important that the large majority you gave me last -time should be increased now, to prove to England that there is but an -infinite minority of Irishmen who are not determined to acquire Home -Rule!” - -Sir Thomas Esmonde was followed by a ferocious looking doctor, who -handled the English in general, but Lord Randolph Churchill in -particular, very roughly; he appeared to cherish a special animosity -against the latter. What had he done to him? I do not know. But if I -were Lord Randolph I would avoid that doctor if I were ill. - -I hoped for some compensation when Mr. Abraham Shackleton began to -speak. I had heard that he was a Quaker. The only thing that I ever -understood about the religion of that sect was that its members never -wore buttons to their coats, always kept on their hats, and thee’d and -thou’d everybody. Now his waistcoat was buttoned, his head was only -covered with badly-combed hair, and I heard him say to the Lord Mayor, -who came in; “How do you do?” This immediately put me on my guard, -for I have a horror of renegades. I therefore only waited to hear him -declare that he would rather be oppressed by a Catholic like his friend -the Lord Mayor than protected by a Protestant like Mr. Chamberlain; -then I slipped out, only too happy to breathe the fresh air once more. - -Mr. Gray had invited me to smoke a cigar with him at Pembroke House -after the meeting. It was already nearly eleven; however, I took -advantage of his kind invitation. I was conducted to a magnificent -library by a neat little maid who did not appear to have suffered -much from Ireland’s misfortunes, nor particularly from famine, for -she is quite plump. The master of the house had returned already; he -was relating to Mrs. Gray all the incidents of his meeting, which had -been very successful. From time to time a small bell recalled him to -a telephone placed in the middle of the table. The special wire for -the newspaper began to transmit the results of the English elections -and the news was immediately forwarded to him. They were not brilliant -for the Liberals. From all sides came tidings of the Conservative -successes. Mr. Gray’s features expressed great annoyance. - -“Bah!” said he at last, “we are beaten! Well, the English will have it -hot! There must be new elections before six months are over!” - -Apparently this means that there are a few good nights of obstruction -reserved for the members of the House of Commons. How strange Mr. -Gray’s position is! For in fact, however they may try to dissimulate -it, the Irish claims if they do not yet amount to communism as their -avowed object--and they may still retain a few illusions upon that -point--still it is quite certain that the methods employed by the Land -League would not be disowned by the most advanced Communists. No one -can proclaim the principle of permanent State intervention in a bargain -regulating the value of the land without being a Communist. - -Now amongst us there is no lack of rich Communists; but they are -only men who are outcasts from their own class, and who have thrown -themselves into the party through hatred of the society which they -feel is closed against them; for they all lead irregular lives, or -else have a blot on their past. Mr. Gray’s case is quite different. He -belongs to an excellent family, his perfect respectability has never -been questioned, even by his worst enemies. He leads the most regular -life; has a large fortune, and yet places all these advantages, and -his undoubted abilities, at the service of Communism. Either he shows -admirable disinterestedness, or else the race of people, who, mounted -on a tree, cut on the side nearest the trunk the branch that supports -them, is not yet extinct. - -I must now sum up the conversations I have had with these gentlemen -during the day. First, I must affirm, that they all declare in the most -positive way, that in asking for Home Rule they have no after-thoughts; -they do not dream of complete separation. They wish to have autonomy, -and power to regulate their own affairs, but they are all ready to -contribute to the common expenses. They do not think of independence, -still less of a republic. They are quite decided on this point. Besides -they also explain, very clearly, that the separation, which would be -a wound and a menace for England, would be death for their country. -Irish productions are exclusively agricultural, and England is the only -market that geography allows them. England can buy whatever cattle or -pigs she requires from other places; Ireland can only sell hers in -England. Suppose that a lucky rebellion drove every Englishman out of -the island; to bring Ireland to her feet, England need not blockade the -Irish ports, she has only to close her own against Irish productions. -Under these circumstances separation would evidently be suicide. - -This once understood, they willingly say when they are asked about -the agrarian laws, that they quite acknowledge how much danger State -intervention in the relations between the farmers and the landlords -involves, and how much the principle of that intervention is opposed to -the most elementary laws of economy. “But,” they add, “necessity has no -law. With us emigration is a last resource that every man endeavours to -avoid.” (This quite upset all my theories; I fancied that Irishmen were -much inclined to emigrate.) - -“An Irishman never emigrates except through compulsion or force. A -ruined man will take a farm at any price, knowing perfectly well that -it will be impossible for him to pay for it, but also knowing that the -landlord will give him credit for the first year or two’s rent, and -that he will thus postpone the day when he must seek work in England or -America as long as possible. - -“Under these circumstances the law of supply and demand is evidently -vitiated, and it is by looking at the question from this point, that we -can maintain that the work of the Land League has done good. Without -our intervention the landlords would have depopulated one-half of -Ireland, for agriculture is in such a distressed state that it is -naturally impossible for farmers to pay their rent in the present state -of the division of land; the only remedy for this situation is the -formation of small holdings, which have so much enriched France.” - -Here I stopped them. “But,” said I, “the agricultural crisis is not -confined to your country. It exists all over Europe. We, Frenchmen, are -suffering so much from it that in my department of the Aisne, one of -the richest in France, one-tenth of the land is abandoned, because it -is found that at present prices the sale of produce does not cover the -expenses of cultivation. The peasant proprietors of whom you speak are -absolutely ruined now, because their land has lost all its value. Now, -allow me to say, without offending you, that our land and our climate -are far better than yours. - -“This state of things, which prevails all over Europe and which is -the result of facility of transport, can only have two solutions: -emigration or protection. Up till now you have had recourse to -emigration, and you have managed comparatively well since the failure -in the potato harvest, which led to the famine in 1847, when you had -nine million inhabitants. In 1877 it only caused less misery because -there were four or five million less mouths. It appears that now you do -not wish for any further emigration, unluckily, protection is almost -impossible. We can apply it at home. We have already done so, and shall -do it again. It is possible because we are a very homogeneous people, -where all industries work side by side. When we ask the blacksmith -to pay a little more for his bread in order that his neighbour, the -farmer, may live, he easily understands that if the farmer is ruined -he will no longer have horses to be shod. Besides, the farmer is his -neighbour, perhaps his relation. With you everything is different. You -only produce meat and butter, and only English workmen can possibly -buy them. You require their custom, _they do not need yours_, and, -more than this, you loudly proclaim that you do not belong to the same -race, that between you and them there is war to the knife, that you -wish to be as completely separated as possible, compatible with your -own interests without paying the least attention to theirs. How can you -hope to succeed when you act in this way?” - -In my opinion these gentlemen have not answered my objections in a -satisfactory manner. They do not appear to know that the agricultural -crisis exists anywhere but here. In principle they would be partisans -of the protective system, but they recognise that they cannot hope to -obtain it from England, at least for a long time. - -What form of government do they intend giving to autonomic Ireland? As -a rule these men evade giving any decided information on the subject, -and this is very natural. Give us the principle, they say, the first -Irish Parliament will regulate all matters of detail. However, before -giving the principle, it is natural enough that England should wish -to know what the consequences will be. An article in the _Nineteenth -Century_, from the pen of Mr. Barry O’Brien, has recently dealt with -this question. - -According to him, there are five men who, in public opinion, so -completely personify the cause of Ireland that their ideas would -prevail whenever it became a question of giving definite form to the -Nationalist aspirations. These five men are Messrs. Parnell, Davitt, -Healy, Archbishop Croke, and Archbishop Walsh. Now, according to -what we know of their opinions, we may form an exact idea of the -combination they would uphold. It would consist in: - -The creation of an Irish Parliament, sitting at Dublin, and invested -with the most extended legislative powers on all local subjects; -it would consequently make all the laws relating to questions -of property, justice, police, and commerce. But the Imperial -Government will preserve an absolute authority upon all the following -questions:--Foreign relations--especially the right of declaring -war--the army, navy, coinage, posts, and customs. All the Imperial -expenses would be covered by means of a tax, collected before any other -levy, from the Irish revenue, and the payment of this tax would be -received by crown officials. - -Would the Irish Parliament admit of an Upper House? Yes; in all -probability. Mr. Dwyer Gray is a great partisan of this idea. Only he -states, with deep regret, that all the Irish peers, having up to the -present time shown themselves absolutely hostile to any project of Home -Rule, and besides having lost any kind of political influence, it would -probably be difficult to have recourse to them to form the Upper House. -But he does not say who would replace them. - -A second question arises: Would Ireland return members to the Imperial -Parliament as Mr. Gladstone proposes? This idea alone exasperates the -English considerably, for they say that if separation is forced upon -them, they will at least be spared the insult of seeing the Irish -continue to take part in the elaboration of laws, to which they will -themselves be subject no longer. Many Irishmen renounce this privilege. -It is, however, known that the Archbishops greatly desire it, because -they consider that in the regulation of religious questions, the -influence of Irish Catholics might often be useful to the interests of -their English co-religionists. Mr. Parnell also shares their views. - -Such in its main lines is the programme desired by the Land League. It -includes very onerous and very dangerous sacrifices for England. And -then as Mr. R---- said, we may ask, whether when once these sacrifices -are made, the Irish encouraged by their success, will not take them as -a starting-point for new claims. Unfortunately the history of popular -revolutions shows, that once entered on the pathway of concessions, it -is very difficult for a government to stop. - -However, it appears to me that in this respect the Irish revolution -will offer some guarantees, of which the others were quite destitute. -In this country there exist very powerful elements of social -preservation. In the first place, religion has an enormous influence, -that later events have only augmented. Then the war of classes is -certainly not carried to its highest point, nor has it at all the same -character as with us. The peasant’s hatred is not roused against the -landlord because he is noble and rich, but because he is Protestant, -and represents in his eyes the invader. The Irish who return from -America bring with them ultra democratic ideas, which are, perhaps, -propagated; but up to now, the bulk of the nation does not hold them. -With us, in the eyes of all good democrats, it is an irremediable blot -to belong nearly or distantly to the nobility. The Marquis de Songeon -could not obtain a nomination to the Municipal Council of Paris, -although he was atheist and radical to the last degree, unless he -called himself M. Songeon. Here, in every case, where a man can attach -himself to a noble family, he never fails to do it, and as soon as a -political man begins to attain notoriety, every newspaper belonging to -his party asserts that he is a direct descendant from the Irish kings. -Verily there must have been a great many of them! - -In London, in Mr. R----’s drawing-room, I heard the Land League and -Home Rule discussed from the English point of view; Messrs. Harrington, -Gray, Biggar, and O’Sullivan have spoken to me about it from the Irish -side. I am therefore well acquainted with the theoretical view of the -question. Now I wish to see the Land League at work. In this respect, -Ireland is divided into two very distinct parts, which are very unequal -in size. In the first, which includes Ulster, and is much the smaller, -the population is nearly equally divided between the two religions. -In this province the Land League has been unable to establish its -authority in an absolute way; it is always in the militant stage. In -the south, on the contrary, the Protestant element, we may say, is -non-existent, or at least is only represented by a few landowners. The -Land League was able to establish itself there without any struggle. -Its authority is unquestioned. Consequently everything that happens -there is the application of its doctrines. I must therefore study them -in the south. With this object I leave to-morrow for Limerick, where -Colonel M---- has kindly invited me to stay with him. From there I -shall branch off into Kerry and Clare, and I fancy that it is in that -direction that I shall have the best opportunity of examining the work -of this formidable machine which, for the last four years, has held all -the powers of the English Government in check. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - ADVICE TO TOURISTS ON THE ART OF KISSING ENGLISH WOMEN--AN - IRISH INN--CASTLE CONNELL--THE DEATH OF THE LAST OF THE - O’BRIENS--BALLINACOURTY--CAPTAIN MOONLIGHT--THE SHANNON--SIR - CROKER BARRINGTON--MR. CARDEN--LORD CLONCURRY AND HIS TENANTS--A - LAND LEAGUE HUT--MR. PATRICK HOGAN’S OPINION OF THE LANDLORDS. - - -_5th July._--Yesterday morning at eight o’clock I left Dublin to -commence my tour in the Irish counties. Shelburne Hotel is feeling -the effects of passing events for it is nearly empty. I am told that -formerly at this season it would have been impossible for them to have -given me a room--at all events to have kept one for me in advance--for -it was the time when all the upper classes of Irishwomen met in the -capital to pay their respects to the Viceroy, and to be kissed by him, -for it appears that this is _the_ essential point in the viceregal -receptions. The Viceroy should kiss every lady presented to him, and -when duels were still fashionable in Ireland, it would have been most -imprudent for the Viceroy to show indifference whilst kissing any of -the beauties who passed before him; the father, brother, husband, -or betrothed would certainly have inquired his reason for such -unjustifiable coolness. And, moreover--I cite this fact for the benefit -of any travellers who may wish for instruction in the matter--the -art of kissing Englishwomen is extremely delicate, and involves a -number of important details. It is scarcely necessary to say that as a -rule it is more prudent to abstain even from kissing the hand, which -our custom recognises, but which on the other side of the Channel is -considered full of mental reservations. But under certain circumstances -this reserve constitutes an unpardonable offence. For instance, if you -should be invited to pass Christmas in an English family, take care -as you enter to glance at the chandelier. You may make a bet that a -large branch of mistletoe will be hanging there. In that case, if you -do not wish to pass for the most ignorant or vulgar of men, you are in -duty bound to immediately and unhesitatingly kiss every female in the -house, from the grandmother to the smallest girl. Custom imperatively -demands this attention, and the English of both sexes cherish it so -greatly that in colonies where mistletoe does not grow it is imported -by shiploads in time for that festive season. - -But then, we have only to consult English history to see what an -important part has often been played by kissing, both in military -and political cases. They say that in the last century a Duchess of -Marlborough, hearing that her husband’s regiment had sustained heavy -losses and that the recruiting sergeants had some trouble in filling -up the ranks, on one occasion accompanied one of them to the market, -holding a shilling between her lips, which she offered to every recruit -who would take it with his own; and the story-teller gallantly adds -that in an hour the total strength of the regiment was fully reached, -and that they could have recruited a whole brigade in the same way had -they wished it. - -At the present time a kiss can still have great political influence. -In order to oppose the Land League, Lady Randolph Churchill has -founded a counter-league solely composed of women, which has been -marvellously successful. Each member of the Primrose League undertakes -to neglect no means, during the elections, of enticing voters to the -Conservative party, and it is stated that some of the prettiest women -unhesitatingly adopt the same method that the Duchess of Marlborough -found so successful. But in spite of all these precedents we should -advise tourist novices to be very careful. They had better sin through -omission than by commission, for exaggerated eagerness or warmth might -be misunderstood. A manual might be written on these serious questions. - -Did or did not Lord Aberdeen, the late Viceroy, impartially kiss all -the ladies of the Irish nobility and gentry who were suffering from -the Land League, or did they wish to punish him for his Gladstonian -tendencies by not giving him even a chance? I do not know. But in any -case there is no season this year and the Shelburne is almost empty. -The proprietors endeavour to console themselves with the aid of a few -rich American tourists, and I must own that when a passing Frenchman -falls into their hands, they treat him precisely like the Americans. -It was after experiencing this fact that I confided my portmanteau and -its owner to the tender mercy of a car-driver to take me to Kingsbridge -station. But, since yesterday was Sunday, I explained to him that -I wished first to be driven to a Catholic church to hear mass, -instructions that might have lowered me in the opinion of a French -carriage-driver, but which in Dublin won for me the most unequivocal -marks of consideration from this son of green Erin. - -He first drove me to a chapel built on the banks of the river, in one -of the poorest and most miserable districts, not far from Guinness’s -brewery. I was extremely struck with all I saw. - -When I entered, mass was about to commence; five or six hundred persons -were kneeling on benches or on the ground. I do not think that amongst -the whole number there was a single one whose appearance did not -indicate the deepest misery. By my side five or six men were telling -their beads. They were almost colossi, with bull-dog heads, very short -cropped hair and unshaven chins. They wore patched woollen shirts and -looked like dock porters. A little further away there was a group of -twelve or fifteen women, frightfully thin, with the hungry worn-out -look one sees on so many faces over here. All these miserable creatures -had evidently attempted to tidy themselves for Sunday. Most of them -wore shoes. I am told that these shoes go to the pawnbroker regularly -every Monday, and are redeemed on Saturday evening for Sunday’s mass. -The dresses have lost all their colour and their lank folds show -there is nothing worn underneath, but the poor owners all pray with -marvellous fervour. I have never seen in any church the striking -and sincere faith then visible amongst these unfortunate Irish whom -Providence seems to have condemned to such a hard life. - -At the station I gained some information that made me a little -anxious. It appears that on Sundays the trains run very irregularly. -They could, therefore, only give me a ticket to Limerick Junction, -about twenty or thirty miles from the city; but the officials told -me that excursion trains often ran on Sundays from Cork to Limerick, -perhaps I could catch one of them; so I entered the train on this -rather doubtful chance. - -The appearance of the country through which we pass is very strange. -I now understand the names “Green Erin” and the “Emerald Isle” which -are so often found in Irish poetry. Green is the scarcely undulating -plain which extends on each side of the railway; green also are the -slightly elevated hills which bound the horizon. We may say that there -is no agriculture. Only from time to time we catch sight of some fields -of potatoes and oats. Not a single tree. The fences are only heaps of -earth--the same enclosures that in Brittany are called _fossés_, only -here there is seldom any hedge. My fellow-passengers explained to me -that when a landowner wishes to make a plantation, everything is at -once cut down by the tenants, or else they let their horses feed on -the young trees, because they say no one has any right to deprive the -people of the land by which they live. - -In quality all this pasturage is very indifferent. The soil is not -worth anything, but I expected at least to see the fields well kept. -But, in reality, this is far from being the case. There is not one -in fifty that does not manifestly require drainage, for they are all -overrun with rushes. A fanciful agriculturist with whom I travelled -gravely assured me that these rushes are much appreciated, because -in winter the cattle know how to pull them up and eat the white part -that is hidden in the earth. I was too polite to laugh in his face; -I was content to point out to him that the intellectual effort and -intelligence which the cattle must develop in order to procure this -food seems to interfere with their growing fat; the blade wears out the -sheath; this explains why all those we pass are in such poor condition. -Besides, the quantity as well as the quality is deficient. The -pasturage would feed more animals than are now grazing upon it, for the -grass is not sufficiently cropped. This all indicates a lack of capital. - -Sir Thomas Esmonde told us yesterday that we should not find land to be -compared to Ireland anywhere else. I suppose he was scarcely alluding -to this district. Still, I read in a book of statistics--and the fact -is confirmed by my fellow-travellers--that County Kildare and Queen’s -County, which we are now passing through, both rank amongst the most -fertile parts of Ireland. At all events there is less misery in them -now than in any other counties. Whenever, in Dublin, the poverty of the -population was spoken of, I was always told that I must go to the south -and west to really appreciate it. - -This leads me to make a comparison that again seems to contradict -the assertions of the orator at Rathmines. Sir Thomas told us that -emigration was one of the chief causes of the ruin of Ireland. Now, -Queen’s County, which suffered enormously from famine in 1847, is -precisely the county where there is the most visible diminution of the -population. Queen’s County contained about 160,000 inhabitants in 1847; -153,000 in 1841. Its superficial area is 425,000 acres, of which 55,000 -acres are absolutely unproductive. It was therefore necessary that -370,000 acres should feed 150,000 inhabitants. This makes almost one -inhabitant to each two and a half acres, which is a very heavy average -for a stock-raising country. It is not nearly so high with us, and it -was evidently too much for the country, since many of the people died -of hunger. - -The population has diminished by more than one-half; there are now -only 75,000 inhabitants, and if it seems proved that it suffers less -than other counties from the present crisis, how can they declare that -emigration is a source of ruin? - -Turf pits are noticeable in every part of the land. Most people know -how this curious combustible is formed. During the summer some cold -damp countries become covered with an abundant vegetation of moss and -herbage that forms a very close and thick undergrowth. These plants die -every autumn. During the winter their decomposition produces a layer -of leaf mould, in which a new vegetation of plants of the same species -springs up again, and its rich growth mingling in its decay with that -of the preceding year, the soil is thus annually raised by successive -layers. Sometimes it reaches twelve or fifteen feet in height. Whilst -digging in this mass of vegetable matter, enormous oaks are frequently -discovered, after being buried for thousands of years, and the wood -having become very close and perfectly black is much in request for -cabinet-making, etc. They are called bog oaks. A quantity of stag and -elk horns are also found, which prove that formerly Ireland was richer -in large game than she is now; for, with the exception of a few found -at Killarney, the stag has completely disappeared. The peat is formed -by these accumulations of roots. The lower layers which have been -compressed by the others are the most appreciated. They are dug out -with a spade, in black bricks, which are afterwards dried in small -heaps. This is the sole fuel used by the Irish peasants, for it is now -a long time since the forests were destroyed, and there is not a single -coal-mine in the whole country. On a hearth, well-dried peat makes a -fairly good fire; but its extreme lightness renders it almost useless -for any industrial purposes. The smallest draught draws up the tall -chimney all the fuel that is between the bars. Still, a little is used -in a few factories in Germany. - -Peat is therefore a very indifferent resource as fuel. This is very -unfortunate for Ireland, as she has a great quantity of it. It forms -the subsoil of at least half the pasturage we pass through. Every -moment we see a large black trench at one corner of the field. Here the -farmer digs out his fuel. - -I am told that this indifferent, badly-kept pasturage is usually let -as 2_l._, 3_l._, and 4_l._ the acre. The Irish acre is larger than the -English. It is almost as large as one of our _arpents_, viz., an acre -and a quarter. The _hectare_, nearly two and a half acres, is therefore -let at 4_l._ to 10_l._ This is certainly much too dear. A Normandy -farmer would not pay that price. In Calvados, pasturage resembling that -which I have seen here would not be worth more than 3_l._ 10_s._, or -4_l._ an hectare. And then the farmer would be in a better position for -working it, since first he would derive some profit from his apples; -and besides this, he would have the command of sufficient capital to -buy the necessary herd of animals, a capital that none of these people -seem to possess. - -I compare this country to Normandy for two reasons. In the first place, -they have the same productions; in the second, the same market. London -prices regulate those of both countries. And we must also remember -that Normandy is nearer to London than Ireland. On the other hand, -the burdens that weigh upon the French farmer are much the heavier. -The land-taxes are dearer with us than in England. The expenses of -registration, so onerous in our country, do not exist on this side of -the Channel. I saw the deed of sale of a property worth 4,000_l._; the -only duty to pay was a fee of 30_s._ In France the registration would -have absorbed about 400_l._ Military service also weighs very heavily -upon our agriculturists. And, evidently, all these things should be -taken into account. However, when the Land Leaguers say that the rents -are too high, I think they are right. But then, why do the tenants take -the land at that price? - -In the country we seldom see a group of houses; there seems nothing -resembling our villages. Only at long distances, three or four cottages -are visible clustered round a pond; as a rule, they are isolated. -Externally, the houses do not look so miserable as I had imagined them -to be. They are certainly small and low, but they are all carefully -whitewashed, and their thatched roofs are generally in good order; but -the gardens appear very badly kept. - -I can boast of wonderfully good luck. Can it be my introduction to -Messrs. Biggar and Shackleton that has brought it to me? When I reached -Limerick Junction I saw a locomotive getting up steam in a corner of -the station. It is one of the excursion trains that I had been told to -look out for; I hurried into a carriage and arrived at Limerick just in -time to catch another which conveyed the Limerick people, who were fond -of nature, out of the town to pass their evenings at Athlone; about -five o’clock it deposited me at Castle Connell Station, about a mile -from my destination. - -But I had not found anything to eat on the road; all the -refreshment-rooms are closed on Sunday. Luckily Castle Connell is -frequented by a good many Englishmen who fish for salmon, and for their -benefit one of those good little inns has been established where one -can never find anything but an enormous piece of roast beef, but where -this roast beef, the roast beef of Old England, is always delicious. -Consequently five minutes after my arrival I was seated before one of -those excellent products of English civilisation, from which I cut -formidable slices that only just touched my plate. Whilst I was thus -occupied, the landlady, a woman of respectable appearance, who called -me “sir” with every three words, sent for a jaunting-car to take me to -Ballinacourty, Colonel M----’s house. In a few moments I saw a tattered -personage ornamented with a very red nose, and cheeks framed with a -superb beard cut like a Russian Grand Duke’s, enter the room. It is -wonderful how hairy the Irish race are! It is probably the damp air -of the country which produces this great development of the capillary -system. This individual is the driver to whom I must confide myself. - -“And it’s to the Colonel’s I’m to take your honour?” said this modern -Esau with the finest accent that can be heard. - -“Yes, it is to the Colonel’s that you must take my honour. One mile -from here! You know the way?” - -“Do I know my own mother? Ah, your honour, it’s just as though your -honour asked did I know the Colonel. Your honour! blessed be the -saints, and a foine gentleman he is! Every time he sees me, your -honour, he offers me a dhrink.” - -“And how much do you want for the drive?” - -“How far did your honour say it was from here to Ballinacourty?” - -“A mile. I saw it on the map.” - -“A mile!” - -The idea that it was only a mile from Castle Connell to Ballinacourty -seemed so droll to him that he called the waiter, laughing heartily as -he did so. - -“Hear this, Tim?” said he. “Here his honour says that to go to the -Colonel’s it is only a mile!” - -Tim also found this idea so ridiculous that he laughed till his old -coat threatened to split, but feeling his dignity compromised by this -burst of hilarity, he wiped his face with a dirty napkin and politely -apologised: - -“Beg your pardon, sir!” said he, “but, holy Mother of God, there are at -least four miles, and the road is very bad.” - -“No, Tim, no,” replied the driver with a noble air, “the road has -been mended, and it is not four miles; it is a little over three; but -there, we will only say three. You know this gentleman is going to the -Colonel’s, a man who never forgets to offer a dhrink, does he, Tim?” - -“Never!” said Tim with an air of conviction; “he offered me one the day -before yesterday.” - -But as it was evident the driver had already met some foine gentlemen -who had given him a great many more dhrinks than was good for him, I -chose not to understand his hints. At last, in despair at my want of -intelligence, he decided to put my portmanteau upon his car. We seated -ourselves back to back, and in spite of the disadvantages of this -position from a conversational point of view, we soon became good -friends. He even thought it his duty to do the honours of the local -curiosities. - -Castle Connell is now only a small village frequented by the fishermen, -who are attracted by a desire to tease the salmon in the Shannon; but -its past is more glorious, for it was once the capital of one of those -innumerable kings who rendered to modern Irishmen a service they now -seem to appreciate very highly, by enabling them all to claim a royal -descent. It was the O’Briens, kings of Munster, who inhabited Castle -Connell. They built on the banks of the Shannon a castle of which we -still see the ruins, not far from the spot where the hotel now stands. -To borrow a verse from king Pharaoh’s celebrated ballad, these monarchs -though legitimate were full of perversity, and this led to their -committing many crimes, thanks to which they became very rich and very -powerful; but unfortunately for them they had one virtue, and this was -enough to ruin them. They were exceedingly hospitable. But that is a -common virtue in Ireland, and has ruined many families from the days of -the O’Briens to the present time. The Irish gentry have always carried -hospitality to such a point, that it formed the most expensive of all -luxuries. The table was always laid, who ever liked was welcome, and -the best in the house was reserved for strangers, until the sheriff’s -officer intervened. Now Irish landlords no longer dine with each other, -because they dare not go out in the evening for fear of being shot. If -this wise reform now due to the benevolent watchfulness of the Land -League had taken place fifty or sixty years sooner many Irish gentlemen -would have escaped ruin. But Mr. Parnell and his agents commenced their -work too late, when the majority of landlords were already completely -ruined; and consequently they feel no gratitude towards the new -arrangements. It was therefore a taste for hospitality which ruined the -dynasty of Castle Connell. One fine day the reigning O’Brien invited -one of his friends to dinner. The latter profited by this invitation -to introduce some of his followers into the castle, and seized the too -hospitable dwelling. He then put out the eyes of his host and ruled in -his place. In analogous circumstances Samson unhesitatingly sacrificed -his life to his vengeance. He pulled down his own house and crushed the -three thousand Philistines who were in it beneath the ruins. Apparently -the last of the O’Briens did not seek to revenge himself in equally -heroic fashion. In the first place, he was assassinated soon after the -fatal dinner. Another thing, perhaps he was not so strongly framed as -the victim of the fair Delilah; and also, perhaps the Irish were better -builders than the Jews: the examination of the ruins strongly inclines -me to this latter hypothesis. They consist of two or three rather -dismantled towers, for the old fortress, which had remained intact -until 1688, was taken at this date from the partisans of King James who -defended it, by the Hanoverians, who undermined it and blew it up. - -My Automedon did all in his power to awaken my sympathy for the family -misfortunes; I also think he claimed some relationship to them, but -I am not quite sure, for Irish explanations are rather diffuse and -hard to comprehend. In courses of elementary mathematics pupils are -often given very complicated formulæ to extract the unknown quantity -therefrom: the conversations of the Irish remind me of these studies -of my youth. They are so embarrassed with incidental phrases, pious -exclamations, or simply polite expressions, such as “Please your -honour,” that the unknown, that is to say, the true meaning, is hard to -extricate. Furthermore, they have a mania for answering one question -by another. For instance, when I asked my coachman if he knew his way, -instead of simply answering “Yes,” he asked me if I thought he did not -know his own mother. - -Besides, the length of his discourse and his anxiety to impart to me -all the historical reminiscences which I have faithfully recorded, had -manifestly the object of deluding me about the distance which separates -Castle Connell from Ballinacourty. In reality it is only a mile, and, -in spite of his efforts, in less than half an hour we arrived in front -of Colonel M----’s house. - -My host is still a victim of the Land League. This is his history. -It is curious, precisely because it resembles that of hundreds of -other landlords. All the tenants on his estate, in County Clare, had -leases of thirty-one years, which fact, in parenthesis, is a formal -contradiction to Mr. Parnell, when he claims _fixity of tenure_, that -is to say, security for the tenants, and declares that one of the chief -reasons which prevent improvements is that the landlords refuse to give -them leases, and like to retain the right of sending them away whenever -they please. I may even add that I have seen a number of these leases, -and my tenants may feel certain that I will never sign anything like -them. It seems to me that the essential point of a lease is that it -should be bilateral--that the two parties should be bound for the same -time. Each runs some risk. If the years are good the landlord does not -benefit by the rise, but if they are bad he does not suffer from the -fall. - -Now, the Irish leases--at least those that I have seen, and I am -assured that until the last few years all were drawn up in the same -form--contain a clause that absolutely destroys this principle. It is -always stipulated that the tenant should have the right to withdraw -at any time by giving six months’ notice in advance, without any -reciprocal power being reserved for the landlord. I do not therefore -see why the latter should tie his hands for thirty-one years; and if -it is true that many landowners have refused to grant leases to their -tenants, it appears to me that their refusal was clearly justified by -this extraordinary clause. - -But in any case the Colonel’s patrimonial estate had always been -managed in this way, and consequently, while those of his neighbours -who had refused to be bound by leases profited by the years of plenty -that followed the famine by raising their rents 25, 50, and often 100 -per cent., the rents on his property remained stationary, or at least -were only raised in a very irregular manner, since the increased rents -could only be charged when the leases had to be renewed. - -When bad seasons returned the Government took the initiative by a law -known as the Land Bill, which instituted committees charged with the -regulation of the rents, but these committees ignored all previous -contracts. They commenced by reducing all rents on an average 15 to 20 -per cent. Then the Land League intervened, and by methods which, if -illegal, were not the less efficacious, it obtained fresh reductions, -which generally doubled the first. On some estates, those which are -referred to when it is desirable to quote an instance, things were -restored to nearly their original condition. When this happened the -landlords protested a little, but merely as a matter of form; for even -had the committee not imposed a reduction, they would have been glad -enough to receive their rents at the same rate as before the rise took -place. - -But the numerous class of those who had not raised their rents -naturally considered that it was supremely unjust that reductions -should be forced upon them when they had not profited by the good -years. And really they had some ground for complaint. Let us take the -case of two landlords who own estates of the same quality contiguous -to one another. In 1855, for instance, both of them let the land at -4_l._ per acre; in 1870 the first of them raised the rent to 8_l._ The -second, restrained by a lease or simply by moral considerations, had -not altered the price. The Government and the Land League only reduced -the former to his original sum of 4_l._, whilst the latter saw his -rent fall to 2_l._, and found himself impoverished by one half simply -because he had not ground down his tenant like his neighbour had done. - -A great many resisted, the Colonel amongst them. He declared that, -under the circumstances, he preferred taking back his land and -cultivating it himself, but by thus acting he infringed the fundamental -rule of the League. Here I cannot resist inserting a parenthesis. - -The idea that ownership of the soil is a property like any other is -certainly a modern idea. The old notion of land tenure, the outcome -of feudal laws, considerably limited the landlord’s rights, by -creating, amongst other things, between him and the tenant reciprocal -obligations, such as personal or military service; these are no longer -compatible with modern ideas, but we still find persistent traces of -them in every country in Europe, and particularly in France. Thus many -of the lands of Sauterre, for instance, are or have till quite recently -been subject to a law which provided that a landlord could not send -away a tenant without replacing him by one of his relations, or by -cultivating the farm himself. Of course this law has not been inscribed -in any code for a very long time. It is asserted that it dates back to -the Crusades; but it is so deeply ingrafted into the national customs -that here the land subject to it is always let more cheaply than -any other, because the owners well know that if they have reason to -complain of a tenant, and that no one of his family is disposed to take -the farm, this generally happens--they will not find any one to replace -him. The owners of land subject to these laws are therefore in a great -measure at the mercy of their tenants. Attempts have frequently been -made to evade it, but they have always been followed by repentance, for -they have invariably been punished, either by arson, or by mutilations -of cattle. But this is all avoided if the proprietor cultivates the -land himself. This is the sole proceeding that, according to custom, -will enable him to act against the tenant. - -These facts are well known. I recall them because they throw a new -light upon the events now passing in Ireland. The Land League by -refusing to allow the landlord the right of dismissing his tenant, -endeavours, perhaps a little unconscionably, to revive in force -old customs that are evidently of feudal origin, and which, if -resuscitated, would completely subvert all modern notions of property, -whilst it is very curious that the League is encouraged in these -attempts by the revolutionists of the whole world. But at least the -old law acknowledged the proprietor’s right to cultivate the land -himself, and this the Land League refuses to do. - -The Colonel’s decision was scarcely announced when all corners of the -estate were placarded with notices warning the public that the fields -were boycotted. A butcher from Limerick rented a meadow, he had reason -to regret it; during the night the tails of all his oxen were cut off. -Then things became worse; the Colonel had left the service in order to -manage the property himself. Soon after he first returned, he wished -to make an example, and sent away two tenants who were pointed out to -him as ringleaders in mischief. He immediately received several letters -signed _Captain Moonlight_, couched in the most polite terms, but in -which he was advised to have the measure for his coffin taken as soon -as possible. A few days later he had dined with a neighbour and was on -his way home towards eleven o’clock at night. It was fairly light; on -leaving the park the road led up a rather steep incline, to the right -there was a field of oats separated from the road by a low wall. - -As they drove through the gate the coachman, who probably had partaken -too freely of the hospitality of the servants’ hall, suddenly whipped -up his horse. The Colonel, who was sitting on the second seat of the -jaunting-car, turned round to tell him to drive more slowly; at the -same time he heard the report of a gun; his hat was pierced, and by -the light of the shot he distinctly saw the man who had fired from -the other side of the hedge. He seized the gun that was always in the -carriage, and jumped down; unfortunately the horse was still going so -fast that he rolled into the ditch. When he got up again the man was -already some distance away, running across the oats. He fired twice -but could not reach him. A few weeks later in his turn he had some -friends to dinner. The dessert had been served, and, according to the -English custom, the ladies had risen to return to the drawing-room; the -Colonel drew back against the wall to allow his neighbour to pass when -a shot was fired outside through the dining-room window; this time the -bullet passed through his coat. - -Two years later an Irish priest, settled in America, wrote to him -saying that the author of the two attempts had just died in hospital, -and that before receiving absolution he had asked his confessor to -write to the Colonel to implore his pardon and to tell him all the -details of the crime. He had received 100 guineas for the attempts, the -result of a donation from all the tenants on the estate. - -This is the position of affairs in the country, and the situation -is rendered particularly serious by the offenders being very rarely -arrested; their secret is too well kept. Besides, when they are -arrested, it is not of much use; the juries know what to expect if -they give an adverse verdict, and therefore the few culprits brought -before them are nearly always acquitted. The other day there was a very -amusing case of this kind. - -One of the Colonel’s neighbours, also an ex-officer, Major F----, had -some difficulties with a drover who occupied a very small farm. He -gave him notice to quit. The man complained to the Land League, and -the president wrote to the Major telling him that he had received a -complaint against him and requesting him to give some explanation about -the motives that had led him to act so harshly. The Major considering -this summons a simple piece of impertinence naturally took no notice of -it. But he suffered for his neglect. A few days’ later as he finished -breakfast, he noticed five or six cows feeding in a field of clover in -front of his windows. He went out, for he could not understand how they -had entered. When he reached the field he found they had passed through -a gap in the wall that had evidently been made on purpose. - -He drove them before him, intending to make them go out by the same -gap, when he suddenly perceived, not ten paces from him, a man on the -other side of the wall deliberately aiming at him with a long holster -pistol. He instantly recognised his drover. The shot followed; he -realised that he was not hit, but he turned on his heels and ran back -into the house to find a weapon. When, ten minutes later, he returned -to the fields, he made a curious discovery--the pistol had burst; this -accident had saved his life. The fragments of the weapon were on the -ground. The drover had disappeared, but he had been severely wounded; -his right hand thumb had been blown off, and was found in a pool of -blood. - -Five or six days later the assassin was arrested in a hospital where he -had gone to have his wounds attended to. He was sent to the assizes; -but on the eve of the trial each juryman received a letter signed -“Captain Moonlight,” informing him that the man had only obeyed orders, -and that if he were condemned, others would be found ready to avenge -him and to make them suffer the same fate from which the Major had so -narrowly escaped. - -The man denied everything, and was acquitted. As he came down from the -prisoner’s bench, when the judge had informed him that he was free, he -had the impudence to turn round and say: - -“Excuse me, your Lordship, but won’t they give me back my thumb? I -should like to bury it!” - -The Colonel told me this story as we strolled on the banks of the -river. The Shannon is not navigable above Limerick. At the place where -we now are it is a fine stream between two and three hundred yards -wide. The water is clear as crystal, except where it foams round -numerous rocky boulders, over which it descends from cascade to cascade -until it reaches a kind of lake formed by a bend in the river which -there suddenly turns westward. - -The two banks are covered with fine trees which reach to the water’s -edge, forming a lovely picture, which would exactly resemble a creek -in the Rocky Mountains if one could not see pretty country houses in -every direction, so near together that the parks join each other. -From Lord Massy’s garden, where we stand, we can see five or six. -The salmon-fishing is the great attraction; no one could imagine the -follies Englishmen will commit for its enjoyment. Our own custom is -repeated here, the owners of the river banks claim the fishing to -the middle of the stream. I was shown the boundaries of one of these -claims, which is only about four hundred and forty yards long. It is -let during the season for 200_l._; and the lessee must also employ two -keepers, a boat, and two boatmen. Altogether, without counting the -other expenses of his change of residence, the whole costs between -280_l._ and 320_l._ A rather longer reach, situated a little more up -the stream, has been let for £400. I inquired whether these liberal -fishermen catch plenty of salmon, and was at once informed that I -had made use of a very terrible barbarism. One must not say “catch a -salmon,” but “kill a salmon.” This important point settled, I then -learned that this has been rather a bad season, but that when the -stream has risen well, lucky and skilful fishermen can kill as many as -eight salmon in a day. - -This morning I asked the Colonel’s permission to walk about the -neighbourhood alone. After the events he related to me yesterday, he -shut up his house in county Clare and settled on the other side of -the river, in the small house at Ballinacourty, which he rented from -a friend, and which is situated in county Limerick. He has therefore -no interest in this district, and up to a certain point this takes him -out of the category of landlords, and places him amongst the strangers. -Consequently the Land League leaves him quite alone, and his relations -with the country people are comparatively good. Yesterday we went out -for a short time with a neighbouring landlord, and I noticed that -whilst he was with us not one of the peasants whom we met saluted us, -but when we were alone they all bowed to us, and some of them even -greeted us with a few friendly words. - -In spite of the personal sympathy evidently felt for him, Colonel M---- -is still a landlord, the friend and neighbour of every landlord in the -country. He is therefore certain to inspire some distrust, and I fancy -that the people will talk more freely with me alone than if they see me -in his society. After walking for some time in the country, I entered -several houses in succession, under various pretexts; and I must at -once own that I was very well received. In a moment, when I said I was -French, my welcome became even enthusiastic. The whole family, and -often even the neighbours, crowded round me, asking me about France, -the name alone seeming to contain a wonderful attraction for them. - -I am told that this sympathy for France exists all over Ireland, but it -is particularly visible in the south, because in the last century most -of the soldiers of the brilliant Irish Brigade, that has filled such -glorious pages in the annals of our military history, came from this -district. The recruiting agents of the kings of France were naturally -pursued by the English authorities, and consequently they experienced -some very great hardships, but this circumstance has been invaluable -to the Irish novelists, whose works are usually based on adventures of -which these men are the heroes. - -The coast of Bantry Bay was almost deserted at that time, and it was -therefore from there that the recruits embarked in search of the -French schooners that conveyed them to Dunkerque, where the depôts -of the brigade were stationed. It is said, that, in order to avoid -compromising themselves, the consignees had the habit of describing the -men in their bills of lading as _wild geese_. - -Few of them ever returned to the country. It is calculated that more -than one hundred thousand died under the French flag; but those who did -come back have left such vivid recollections of themselves, that here -every one seems to look upon France as a second country, and imagine -that they will ultimately regain their liberty through us. - -Yesterday, when from the railway I saw the country cottages, I -thought the descriptions I had received of their poverty were greatly -exaggerated. But to-day I realise that these accounts did not overstep -the truth, and that appearances had greatly deceived me. The exterior -is passable. Like many old houses in Perche and elsewhere, they are -all built of mud tempered with cow-hair or hay, and consolidated with -a few laths. As long as the roof is good, and that they are careful to -frequently whitewash the exterior, these buildings are very warm in -winter, very cool in summer, and they last a long time. - -But when any one enters them the impression is quite changed. We must -first remark that the Irish are extremely prolific. Most families -include six or seven children, yet as a rule the houses have only one -room, ten or eleven yards long by five or six wide. - -To enable the whole family to sleep there they formerly resorted to -very original arrangements. In one corner there was a great heap of -reeds; in the evening they spread them out for a bed; the man and -wife slept in the middle; the smallest boy by his father’s side, the -youngest girl by her mother, and so on until they reached the eldest, -who occupied the two extremities next to the pigs, who are always -allowed inside. If they offered hospitality to a stranger, and this -frequently occurred, the pigs were pushed a little further away. This -was called sleeping “straddogue.” - -It appears that this rather primitive couch is still used in many -houses. But moralists have some reason to say that luxury is -penetrating everywhere. In all the cottages that I have yet visited, -the inhabitants have already mounted one step on the ladder of comfort. -I have always seen one, and sometimes two beds, but never more. When -there is only one bed, the father, mother, and daughters sleep side -by side at one end; the sons at the other. When there are two, the -parents and daughters occupy one, and the sons repose on the other. -The pigs had also profited by this innovation; they sleep under the -bed, and the hens generally perch above it. I have never seen such -arrangements even amongst the savages on the African coast. - -This system, deplorable from a human point of view, seems, on the -contrary, to have the happiest effect on the development of the -intellectual and affectionate qualities of the pig. To him is confided -the education of the children, who, almost naked, play in the mud -outside the cottage. I saw two this morning, nearly of the same age, a -little boy and a little girl, sleeping in the glare of the sun, their -heads comfortably resting on the side of a great sow. The latter was -evidently quite conscious of her important charge. When I advanced she -first moved her ears, then uttered some little grunts, intended to -herald the approach of a stranger, but she did not move for fear of -awaking the two children. A little further on three others, of four and -five years old, were filling an old tin box with dirty water, which -they afterwards poured over their legs, with great satisfaction. Their -guardian lying full length in the pool, watched this innocent amusement -from one corner of her eye, and seemed to take extreme pleasure in it. - -What have all these people to live on? And here I must assert that -they have no appearance of suffering. The race is not remarkable for -physical beauty. But though they are ragged and half naked, they do not -look famished with hunger as the people do at Dublin. The children are -very fat. We are now at the commencement of the hay season, but yet all -the men seem idling about the cottages. The Colonel assures me that -many of them have money deposited in the banks, and that it is not rare -to see a man living like those whom I have visited give his daughters -when they marry a dowry of 40_l._ or 50_l._ each. Where do they get all -this money, besides the sums they spend? More than a shilling a day is -never paid for a man’s labour. The mystery is explained to me by the -information that in a few days they will all go to England to assist in -the harvest and hop-picking, and they live in idleness through the rest -of the year on the money then made. Formerly, part of it went to pay -the rent; but those good times are quite past now. - -I have already had one long discussion with the Colonel. He says that -the land is good. I persist in considering it very indifferent as a -rule; moreover, the climate is very bad. Vegetation is so backward -that haymaking has scarcely commenced. They never secure more than one -crop. The bad weather comes too soon for it to be possible to get any -aftermath. I have not yet seen a field of wheat. When it was grown, the -harvest was rarely successful. I had the curiosity to visit a large -garden which has some reputation in the county, for the owner sells -the produce of it. I am certain that it is fully three weeks behind -Normandy, and even more behind the suburbs of Paris. In my garden in -the Avenue Friedland, the rhododendrons have flowered a month ago. Here -they are just opening. It is the 6th of July, yet there are scarcely -any strawberries. The gardener proudly showed me a cherry-tree, which, -thanks to an excellent situation, has already some ripe fruit! They are -being sold at 1_s._ 6_d._ per pound to a dealer, who retails them at -2_s._ 1_d._! - -How can agriculture prosper under such circumstances? Owing to the -Gulf Stream, the winter is not severe; but how can the poor work in -January and February? Yesterday we sat down to dinner at eight o’clock. -We left it soon after nine, and it was broad daylight. The lamps were -still unlighted. I therefore conclude that in six months it will be -dark until nine o’clock in the morning, and we are in the South of -Ireland. What must it be in the North? And what is a day’s labour worth -if it only contains five or six working hours? - -After lunch, the Colonel took me for a drive. We first went ten or -twelve miles to visit Sir Croker Barrington’s beautiful seat. The -Castle is placed in the midst of a lovely park; it is modern, but it -has several towers, machicolations, and battlements, which give it a -look of feudal ferocity, completed by four or five old cannon, placed -like a battery on the terrace which overlooks the road we drove up -by. Alas! they did not suffice to intimidate the Land Leaguers of the -neighbourhood; for one morning, three or four years ago, they came in -broad daylight and organised a battue in the park. They killed all the -deer without any one daring to oppose them. The deer have since been -replaced, and we have even seen some of them. But what was done at Sir -Croker Barrington’s is repeated, more or less, in all directions, on -a smaller scale. In many counties it is now impossible to preserve at -all. Poaching is openly carried on. - -“We ourselves, the landlords, are now the game,” said the Colonel in a -melancholy tone, “and for us there is no close season.” - -However, sometimes the game resists. The instance of a Mr. Carden was -quoted to me, who at last succeeded in getting the best of the whole -population. - -Like every one else, he had serious difficulties with his tenants, who -would neither pay their rents nor leave their farms. He had been shot -at several times, but had never been hit. One day he was riding on -the Nenagh road in full daylight, when, at the same moment, he heard -two balls whistle past his ears. The would-be murderers were two men -who had fired from a neighbouring field, and who ran away seeing that -they had missed their aim. Mr. Carden jumped his horse over the wall -and pursued them. He stunned the first with a blow from his loaded -horse-whip, then throwing himself upon the second, he managed to knock -him down with blows of his fists. He bound them together with his -stirrup-leathers, and triumphantly conveyed them to Nenagh prison. -Wonderful to relate, the jury, suddenly carried away by his courage, -consented to find them guilty, and they were hanged! - -Mr. Carden had another rather droll adventure with his tenants. One -day, during the Fenian insurrection, he was warned that the inhabitants -of the neighbouring village, taking the Socialist theories in earnest, -had divided his park between them, and intended solemnly coming to -take possession on the following Monday. Mr. Carden, assisted by his -men-servants, immediately carried an old cannon, worked on a pivot, -that he possessed, to an upper room. On the day named the tenants -arrived with horses and carts, and commenced, in presence of an immense -crowd, to dig up the lawn. At this moment they heard a window open, and -they saw Mr. Carden ostentatiously leading his cannon up to the mouth -with packets of grape-shot. He then turned round, drew out his watch, -and informed the spectators that he gave them ten minutes to get away -in. They did not require five, and no one has since dreamt of digging -up Mr. Carden’s lawn. - -Sir Croker Barrington was away, and this unfortunately prevented us -from seeing the interior of the castle, but we had a short walk through -a small narrow copse that ran along the hill, on the top of which the -castle was built, and which is really charming. The dampness of the -country renders the vegetation of the underwood deliciously fresh, and -of incomparable luxuriance by the side of anything we have at home. And -I must add that Irish poachers are less destructive than ours. They -kill the large game, but apparently disdain the thrushes, blackbirds, -and wood-pigeons, for numbers of them flew up, literally from under our -feet. - -The road that has brought us back from Sir Croker Barrington’s to -Ballinacourty passes through Lord Cloncurry’s estate. I much wished -to visit this property, for it has been frequently mentioned for some -time past. It is, in fact, the theatre where very extraordinary events -have taken, and are still taking place, showing plainly the state of -disorganisation which now prevails in Ireland. - -Lord Cloncurry is a very rich man, who usually inhabits another estate -in the vicinity of Dublin. His property in county Limerick is managed -by an agent. - -The tenants paid their rent neither better nor worse than their -neighbours, when after Easter, 1884, they all went to the agent -together. They carried their money in their hands. The agent, believing -that they had come to pay him, began complimenting them on punctuality -to which he was unaccustomed, when the priest, who was with them, -stepped forward, and, speaking in the name of his parishioners, told -him that the tenants were ready to pay, provided that the rents were at -once reduced ten per cent. If this reduction, which was to affect not -only the quarters now due, but also those that were in arrears, were -not accepted, nothing more would be paid. - -The agent replied that he had not the requisite authority to accept -these propositions, which to him seemed very unjust. The land was let -in a very unequal way, for as the rents had not been raised for a long -time the relative value of the land was much changed, so that whilst -some paid a full price, others paid much too little. If they wished the -arrangements re-made on a new basis it would not be just for the same -reduction to be made for them all. The tenants would not listen, and -they all left him without paying a penny. - -The following day they assembled at a meeting, the priest still acting -as president. It was agreed that five delegates should go to Dublin to -see Lord Cloncurry and to lay the matter before him. - -He did not receive the embassy very graciously, but replied to them -in the same words as the agent had done. He did not refuse them all a -reduction, but he would not admit that a reduction should be the same -for all; lastly, and above all, he would not allow them to impose upon -him, by threats, terms that he thought were undesirable. If the tenants -would not pay, he would show himself lenient towards arrears, but he -would get rid of them all, even if he cultivated the land himself. - -Before they separated, they had roused a great deal of anger towards -each other. It is easy to see that the whole business was badly managed -from the commencement. Lord Cloncurry had not the reputation of being -a hard or exacting landlord. On the other hand, any one who is in -the habit of managing land, and who is acquainted with the state of -agriculture, not only in Ireland, but nearly all over the world, will -see at once that the demand for a reduction of ten per cent. was not -excessive. Only it is quite certain that the tenants owed the rents in -arrear. In asking for a reduction on this portion of their debt, they -were soliciting a favour, and to begin with threats is not the way to -obtain a favour. Lastly, in spite of my sympathy for the Irish, I can -never understand one thing--namely, that the landowner can be denied -the right of sending away a tenant who will not pay. - -However, this is of daily occurrence in Ireland, and the most singular -thing is, that it frequently happens that tenants who refuse to pay -because others have refused, send their money by post or let one of -their children carry it over during the night, entreating the agent not -to say that they have paid it, because they are afraid of the others. -One small estate was named to me, on which all the tenants, with the -exception of one or two, have regularly paid in this way for some -years, each persuading himself that he is alone in doing so. - -Lord Cloncurry lost no time before putting his threats into execution. -The tenants all received a summons to pay. They took no notice of it, -and it was soon known that they were to be evicted. - -On the day named, everybody from two or three leagues round, assembled -to witness the proceedings. Lord Cloncurry’s representative soon -appeared, accompanied by an imposing escort of police and about fifty -soldiers from the Limerick garrison. The priest was there encouraging -his parishioners to struggle for the good cause. However, considering -the customs of the country, the crowd was not very threatening. They -threw a good deal of mud and a good many stones at the police; but -that always happens, and no one attaches any importance to it. Every -tradition was minutely observed on both sides. In each house, the -whole family lay on the ground and refused to move. Two policemen then -took men, women and children, in succession, and gently deposited them -on the manure heap; then they carried all the furniture outside, and -lastly the landlord’s agent took possession--carefully shutting all -the doors and windows, or else the evicted persons would hasten in -again, and nothing would be gained; whereas, if they broke open a door -after the seals were once placed upon it, they would fall under the -power of the law. All these operations are extremely delicate. If any -member of the family is still in the house when the seals are put on, -the eviction is invalid. Consequently, those interested in possession -being retained often try to hide a child in a corner, or, better still, -in a hole prepared in the wall or in the thatched roof, and if this -manœuvre is successful, the unfortunate landlord is obliged to obtain a -fresh writ, and, with another hundred men, to attempt a fresh eviction, -for it all must be done over again. “The fôôôrme!” said Bridoison, “is -substance.” - -All the “fôôôrmes” were therefore duly observed on either side, and, -on the whole, the affair passed off quietly. But it was scarcely -ended, when an incident occurred which produced a deep impression. -Lord Cloncurry’s representative was about to retire with the police, -when a personage, whom no one had noticed until then, approached him, -and intimated, in the name of the Land League, that all the land on -the estate was boycotted, and that, in order to secure obedience to -the orders of the League, the tenants would be installed, by its -precautions, at the doors of their old houses, in such a way, that no -interference would be possible. At the same time, the crowd opened, -and he saw a number of carts filled with materials. Every one at once -set to work; and before the day ended, fifty or sixty wooden huts, for -which the frames had been sent all ready, were put up on the side of -the road, and each evicted family was comfortably installed in one of -them the same evening. - -We may judge of the effect produced by this unexpected scene that the -League had organised to give a new proof of its power. The arrangement -has now lasted for two years; the seventy evicted families are -supported at the expense of the League; the land on which these huts -are built belongs to farms in the neighbourhood; they are regularly -let to the tenants who occupy them. Some landlords wished to protest; -but they were threatened with Lord Cloncurry’s fate, and so their -opposition subsided. - -At the same time, Lord Cloncurry has not yielded one inch. He put some -cows into the boycotted fields, and curiously enough, their tails -have not been cut off--an immunity that they probably owe to the fact -that, on its side the authorities have stationed two or three bodies -of police in the empty farms, and that the fields are patrolled by -well-armed constables every night. - -At Dublin, Mr. Harrington had told me about this business, recommending -me to go and visit the Land League huts. It appears that the -Association has profited so much by their action on this occasion, that -in spite of the great expense entailed, it has built other huts under -similar circumstances in other parts of Ireland. It is certain that -the seventy men whom the League has supported in idleness during the -last two years must be invaluable agents, and the whole proceeding also -serves as a very fine advertisement for the League. - -After a few minutes’ walk, we reached a place by the roadside where -two of these huts are built. I wished to visit them, in spite of -the Colonel’s advice, for he warned me that having been seen with -him, I might expect a very cold reception, and might even be most -unceremoniously turned out. “For,” said he, “these men are the most -desperate fellows in the country!” - -And, in fact, it at first seemed very probable that his words would be -verified. In the first house I entered a woman was sitting near the -door peeling potatoes; five or six children of different ages were in -the corners; the husband, a great fellow with a bad physiognomy, was -seated near the window, smoking his pipe, with his hat on and both -hands in his pockets. - -“Good morning, madam!” said I pleasantly, as I entered. “Good morning, -sir!” - -The woman never even raised her head; the children looked at me, -thrusting their fingers up their noses; the husband gave an ill-omened -grunt. - -This sounded badly. But at that instant an idea struck me that I can -only call brilliant, although that word may cause my modesty to be -questioned. The eldest child, a horrible-looking urchin of ten or -twelve years old, frightfully dirty and half naked, was evidently -poking the fire when I entered; he still held the stick he had been -using for the purpose. - -“Madam,” I continued still more pleasantly, “would you kindly allow -your nephew to give me a light for my cigar?” - -Instantly the woman raised her head and pushed away the locks of yellow -hair that covered her eyes. - -“My nephew!” said she. “But I haven’t a nephew!” - -“But that boy there--is he not your nephew?” - -“That boy there--he’s my son!” - -“Your son--that great boy! But I can only beg your pardon. Upon my -word, you look so young that I should never have supposed that you had -a son of that age. I am a foreigner--a Frenchman. You must excuse my -blunder.” - -I had scarcely finished my pretty little speech, when everything in -the house was reversed. First the mother, then the father, jumped from -their chairs to offer them to me. - -“Ah, your honour,” said the woman, “how can you say I look young? I am -three years older than my husband, blessed be the saints! I have seven -children, your honour. Pat, finish there, are you going to give his -honour a light for his cigar?” - -After that, nothing was refused to me. I went over the whole house. -It was ten yards long by six wide. To the right two partitions, which -were placed at right angles to each other, formed two rooms, each -containing one bed; the parents and daughters slept in one, the boys in -the other; the large room was used as a kitchen. Mr. Parnell’s portrait -hung on the wall. My hosts were unacquainted with Latin, or they should -have written below it: _Deus nobis hæc otia fecit_. But still this does -not prevent them from enjoying their position. The husband explained -that the Treasurer of the Land League passes every Saturday, and -gives them 2_l._ Besides this, he sometimes earns a shilling a day by -working. Through the window he showed me his old farm on the opposite -hill; it is one of those now turned into a garrison, but he appears -quite resigned to his condition. I think that, at least so far as he -is concerned, this display of military force is quite unnecessary, for -I believe that he would be quite dismayed if he were told he would be -reinstated in his old home. - -I asked him whether he had ever thought of emigration. “Emigration!” -said he, with extraordinary energy. “Never; I would rather die of -hunger!” - -These words confirmed the statements made by the heads of the Land -League at Dublin. I thought that the Irish peasant, unlike the French -of the same class, was easily persuaded to emigrate; but this is not -so. Every one whom I have asked in my walk this morning has made the -same answer. However, they tell me that the young men have different -ideas and that, on the contrary, most of them were going to seek their -fortunes in America and Australia. - -When I had inspected the first house, I asked if I could see the -second, and since they had now made my acquaintance, I was received -there cordially at once. This one is rather larger; it is occupied -by a man about sixty years old, named Patrick Hogan. He lives there -with eight women--his wife, and seven daughters or granddaughters. -They were all bare-footed and very dirty, and in the last respect the -house rivalled them, although it bore signs of great comfort. Three or -four fine sides of bacon hung from the roof. To the right of the door -stood a large sideboard, on which a dozen blue earthenware plates were -displayed, representing a Chinese landscape, with a pagoda to the right -and a bird to the left. I recognised it as the garden of Puntin-qua, at -Canton. Many years ago some English china manufacturers made a drawing -of it, and inundated the world with pseudo-Chinese productions of their -own workmanship. On the wall Mr. Gladstone’s portrait hung between -those of Mgr. Croke and Mgr. Walsh. There were also a few religious -pictures. - -Mr. Patrick Hogan is evidently in a superior position to that of his -neighbour. He told me his own history in well-chosen words. He also -receives 2_l._ per week. The rent of his farm was 40_l._, and when he -was evicted he would willingly have signed a new lease at 36_l._; but -now farming is so bad that he would not agree to more than 30_l._ He -also told me that he was two or three years’ rent in arrear. - -I asked him if Lord Cloncurry had not seized his cattle. - -“Oh, no,” said he with a cunning look; “I took care to get them all -away on the eve of the eviction. One of my neighbours is keeping them -for me.” - -I told him that this trick was not altogether unknown amongst us; -adding that I had even seen it carried out so skilfully, that one -farmer managed to “get away” forty or fifty oxen and cows in one night. -This anecdote seemed to interest him immensely, and to confirm his -high opinion of France. - -“Ah, your honour,” said he, “the French are a great people!” - -He then inquired whether we also had a Land League--he pronounced -it _lague_--and was rather astonished when I told him that with us -a tenant who could not pay always tried to leave, and that often, -particularly just now, it was the landlords who compelled the tenants -to remain in their farms. We agreed at once that landlords _are a very -bad lot, all the world over_; he shook my hand with a vigour that -nearly dislocated the arm, and we parted the best friends in the world. - -I have forgotten one detail which is worth quoting. When I asked Mr. -Patrick Hogan how he passed his time, he confided to me that he had -taken some lands situate some distance from here. He held them at a -very low price, and had managed to relet them at higher rents to three -under-tenants. I asked him if he had not some trouble with his tenants. -“Ah!” he answered; “I should like to see them refuse to pay me!” A -reply that completely capsized all my notions of right and wrong, -already much shaken by everything that I had heard and seen in this -singular country! - - - [(April, 1887.) I have received from Ireland a request to rectify - an error, which I hasten to do at once. I said that the Limerick - butcher who took Colonel M----’s field, found his cows’ tails cut - off. It appears that this misfortune happened to the cows of a - neighbour under the same circumstances. The butcher hastened to - withdraw his cows from the boycotted meadows before they suffered - the same fate. - - Neither was it Colonel M----’s would-be assassin who, when lying - in a hospital in America, declared to his confessor that he had - been paid by means of a subscription in which all the tenants on - the estate had joined. The story is true, but it is applicable to - another case.] - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - LIMERICK--ADMIRABLE SELF-DEVOTION OF THE IRISH PIGS--THE - AGENTS--MALLOW--KILLARNEY--HOW ONE TRAVELS IN KERRY--MUCKROSS - ABBEY--AN IRISH HUT--DERRYGARIFF--THE ORIGIN OF AN ESTATE--THE - DRAMA OF GLENVEIGH--A DINNER IN KERRY. - - -_Tuesday, July 6th._--At nine o’clock this morning, I quitted the -hospitable mansion of Ballinacourty, in order to keep an appointment -which I had made with one of the most well-known agents in the south -of Ireland. It seems that the Irish railway companies share in -the general distress, or at least are doing a very poor amount of -business. This, however, is not the result of the extremely luxurious -accommodation afforded, for which our own lines are reproached. The -station at Lisnagry, where I took my ticket, simply consists of a -miserable shed leaning against a very small house; so small that one -is quite surprised to see in it a tall young man, who is very ragged, -but who discharges the triple duties of station-master, gate-keeper, -and porter. As station-master he sells me a ticket--“Limerick single;” -as gate-keeper he closes the barriers, addressing some invectives -to a dozen freckled, bare-legged girls, who were noisily discussing -their small affairs on the line; and lastly, as porter, he seized my -portmanteau and placed it on the seat of the compartment, responding to -my tip by piously wishing that all the saints in Paradise might bear me -company. - -“Thank you, your honour, and may the saints be with you, your honour!” - -If really they had come in answer to his prayer they would have found -themselves badly off, for the carriages are indescribably dirty; the -once blue cloth was torn in five or six places. The carpet was so -ragged that the idea at once suggested itself to me that the company -used up the remains of their worn carpets as clothing for their -servants. I point out these details for two reasons. The English who -travel by railway in France never fail to lament over the rapacity -of our officials, and over the inferiority and the dirtiness of our -carriages, etc. Besides, there is a whole class of Frenchmen who think -themselves great travellers if they have made one journey from Dover -to London, and who never lose an opportunity of going into ecstasies -over the admirable organisation of English railways. I do not consider -them superior to ours except in one respect--the transport of luggage. -In the first place, every traveller has theoretically the right to -have 100 lbs. carried, instead of 60 lbs. as with us. And further, in -practice, the quantity is almost unlimited, for the boxes are never -weighed however ponderous they may be. In other respects, as far as the -service is concerned, their system appears to consist in not having -any. The porter who takes your trunk from the cab, places it in the -van, often without labelling it. You have nothing to prove it has been -received on arriving at your destination; the box is simply pointed out -to another porter, who takes it from the van without any formalities. -When this succeeds, and it apparently does succeed as a rule, it is an -admirable arrangement, for, by avoiding our many formalities much loss -of time is also avoided. But it seems to me that luggage must often be -lost, and when that happens, I ask myself, on what basis can the owner -make a claim on the company. - -When I reached Limerick I was informed that the train for Mallow, which -I ought to take, would not leave for another hour. I profited by this -delay to visit the town. My guide-book--_Black’s Picturesque Tourist -in Ireland_--which I had consulted on my way, told me that the town -now contains 38,000 inhabitants; it is renowned for its bacon; that -formerly it contained manufactories of gloves, and some large tanyards. -Now, it seems that these industries have disappeared, or are rapidly -declining. Limerick bacon is inferior to Chicago; scarcely any gloves -are now made; and if they still prepare leather, it cannot be for the -boots of the inhabitants, for only the men wear shoes--and what shoes! -All the women and children I have met wisely and economically content -themselves with walking in the mud on the skin of their own feet. - -But at all events, if we believe Mr. Black, and I have no reason to -doubt his assertions, the town of Limerick offers many interesting -curiosities for the traveller’s amusement. It contains a large stone -which is the joy of all antiquarians, because on this stone in 1691, -a capitulation was signed and by its terms Sarsfield, Lord of Lucan, -who held the town, surrendered with the Irish troops under his command -to General de Ginckle who was besieging it for King William. Why do -these unhappy Irishmen who are such admirable soldiers when they are -once away from their country, who in France formed the splendid Irish -Brigade who so brilliantly contributed to the victory of Fontenoy--why -do these same Irishmen always allow themselves to be defeated almost -ignominiously at home when they are fighting _pro aris et focis_? This -is one of the most inexplicable features of the national character. - -Mr. Black also recommends us to visit the Catholic cathedral, a ruined -castle, the bridges over the Shannon, and a number of other not less -curious objects. Unfortunately I was unable to see any of them, for I -was so much absorbed after I had left the station in contemplating the -touching and instructive spectacle around me that the curiosity of the -tourist disappeared before the emotion of the philosopher. - -It is a well-known fact in history that from the origin of man the -destiny of certain people is often found indissolubly bound up with -that of a particular vegetable or animal. For instance, it seems -proved that without the Egyptian leek the Jews would all have died of -misery and regret before they had finished even the smallest of the -three pyramids of Giseh. What would have become of the Arabs without -the camel and the racahou, which it appears played such an important -part amongst them before it invaded the fourth page of our newspapers? -Suppress the seal, and to-morrow there will be no Esquimaux. This is -why Jewish and Arabian poets are always most inspired when they sing -of the leek and the camel; and that if ever the Esquimaux have poets, -their poems ought to be entirely devoted to the seal. - -The Irish are in the same case. It is proverbial amongst them that -the poor man has only two friends--his potato and his pig. In days of -distress--days, alas! so common--the potato has sometimes failed, but -the pig never! Consequently, every historian has devoted eloquent pages -to this friend of green Erin. They have described him playing with the -children of the house, sharing their food after sharing their gambols, -then sharing their beds, and when dead still sustaining the life of -the family after having cheered it during existence. It appears that -there are a number of poets who have been inspired by this subject -and who have written the most touching ballads on it. Yesterday at -Ballinacourty I already understood these sentiments. I comprehended -them still more from the moment that I entered the street from the -Limerick station. - -It was market day. In the square before me there were about a hundred -Irishmen, all very tipsy. If they had been alone they could never have -guided themselves. Luckily each of them had confided himself to a pig -which led him by means of a string tied to its foot. The man clung to -the cord, the pig led him gently, stopping occasionally, it is true, to -turn over the heaps of rubbish, often deviating from the path through -the zigzags taken by the man, but always ending by re-conducting him -to the right road; from time to time the man, losing his equilibrium, -caught hold of the pig’s tail, then the latter squeaked loudly, but -this was only natural. It certainly could easily have made its escape, -but this it did not attempt, it so well understood the extent of its -responsibility. - -They proceeded in this way, the one following the other, to the doors -of a large building. A flaming notice informed me that it was a bacon -factory! There they separated. The man received some money; the pig, -quite resigned, addressed a last affectionate grunt to him, and then -plunged into the crowd of its fellows, no doubt to conceal its emotion. -The man went to bury his in a tavern. It was a grand and touching -spectacle! - -I saw a few national costumes in the crowd, resembling those we see in -_Punch’s_ caricatures. Tall, thin fellows, wear very high-crowned hats, -with slightly-drooping brims; they wear tail coats made of frieze, and -short breeches. It seems to me that it is the rich who are clothed in -this way--those who at some time in their lives have been able to have -a coat made for them. The others are simply covered with nameless rags. - -I have already said that all the women, almost without an exception, -are barefooted. But, alas! they are not like the pretty mulattoes in -Bourbon who are never shod through coquetry, because they wish to -preserve the pretty shape of their feet and the gracefulness of their -walk, which they consider incompatible with boots. Coquetry does not -seem to exist amongst the women of this country. The little they show -is scarcely satisfactory. Their feet are large and ill-shaped; the leg, -uncovered to the knee, has scarcely any calf; and they are horribly -dirty. A characteristic note is given to their costume by their always -wearing a shawl on the head. Many hold it drawn together before the -face with one hand, only showing, like the Lima women, one eye. This, -by the way, is the best thing they can do, for they have often fine -eyes, which relieve the ordinary type of the rest of the face. - -It would be wrong to call them ugly, for they have a charming -expression. One never sees those little, rather pert, faces, which are -so pretty and so common amongst us. Here the dominant note is a very -sad, gentle, timid expression, which has a certain grace. But really -these poor girls ought to do like the Corsican women, who, when they go -to market, are careful before entering the town always to ford the last -stream, so that their feet are washed. I also fancy that those women -ought to comb their hair sometimes, instead of leaving it in a state of -disorder which has nothing in common with art. Many do not even fasten -it up, simply leaving it to fall about. - -England is the promised land of charitable associations. Some one -really ought to interest himself or herself in this matter; and my -sympathy with green Erin is so great that if some energetic English -spinster, of whom there are so many, will found a society with the -object of distributing combs amongst the young Irish women, accompanied -by tracts containing instructions how to use them, I now beg her to put -my name down on the first page of the subscription list. - -If this subscription succeeded well enough to enable the society also -to distribute some soap, it would be very fortunate; but it would, -I think, first be necessary to make a complete change in the nature -of the people. The English are particularly well dressed and neat. -The Irish are just the reverse. The railway servants are paid almost -as much here as in England. The difference in wages is probably more -than balanced by the greater cheapness of living. In England even the -porters are always clean; here, the station-masters are shabby. - -The train that was to take me to Mallow also conveyed a whole family -of Irish emigrants, composed of the parents and two or three children. -These people appeared to be in comparatively easy circumstances. The -woman wore a kind of cloak trimmed with fur. Very much preoccupied -about her luggage, she approached the porter’s pot of paste, and, in -default of a brush, she put her hand in to re-stick a label which -was coming off, and this done she wiped the hand on her cloak in the -most natural way. During this time the young brother and the mother, -probably, who were remaining behind, uttered absolute howls. I am told -that it is the usual way of crying in this country. It is called a -_wail_. It is often alluded to in the native poetry. But no one seems -to pay any attention to it. - -The country through which we pass is not very remarkable. It has the -same characteristics as the district I saw the day before yesterday -in going from Dublin to Limerick. We travelled towards the south. To -the east the horizon is bounded by a few hills. But the line is laid -in the middle of a large plain, which recalls a little the American -prairie. But this is distinguished by being furrowed by a number of -fences, formed by a mound of earth between two ditches--the classic -Irish jump of our steeplechases--scarcely any trees; miserable little -isolated houses show thatched roofs and whitewashed walls at long -intervals; very little agriculture--a few fields of potatoes and oats. -Here, again, the meadows have a miserable appearance; everything -requires drainage; still the grass must have some good qualities, for -we continually see very fine horses, which start off at a gallop, -frightened by the locomotive. On the other hand the cattle are -indifferent and not very abundant; the pasture could easily carry a -greater number of animals here, as well as in Queen’s County. - -My fellow traveller was Mr. Sanders, a charming young man, who is -agent for several important estates in the neighbourhood, and who only -leaves me at Mallow. I had taken care to provide myself with letters of -introduction to several of these agents before leaving Paris, thinking -that it would be through them that I should obtain correct information -respecting the state of the country. To understand the importance of -their position, we must remember the manner in which land tenure is -regulated in Ireland. - -We may say that small holdings do not exist. But then we can hardly -see how they could ever have been formed. All the estates are of -considerable relative importance; at least taken with regard to their -superficial area. In other countries this constitution of the domains -would have been favourable to agriculture on a large scale. It is not -so here, because of the excessive population. The landowners always -endeavour to increase the size of the farms by diminishing the number -of them, but they never succeed, because they have to contend with -local customs. A farmer will take a farm of 60 acres, then without any -authority he divides it between his six children as they marry, and -each young couple, still without the landlord’s permission, hasten -to build a small cottage on the piece of ground allotted to them. -With each generation the land becomes further parcelled out; and thus -holdings of two acres and a half, or even less, are formed, and these -are evidently too small to feed a family. - -Under these circumstances the management of an estate becomes very -complicated, and morally speaking very painful; for the proprietors -are continually forced to use harsh measures. For this reason, all -the Irish landowners, even those who reside on the estate, confide -the management of the property to professionals, who are called -“agents.” These agents are very important personages. In our northern -departments, we might perhaps find some _receveurs_ who can be compared -to them. As a rule they receive 5 per cent. upon all the rents they -collect; but all the expenses of collection, &c., fall upon them, -and these expenses are very considerable, for their receipts are so -great that frequently they have regularly organised offices. One of -those to whom I have an introduction receives commissions amounting to -4,000_l._; only I am told that his general expenses absorb one half. I -must add that the agents form a class whose respectability is publicly -acknowledged, even by the Land Leaguers, who are naturally their -bitterest enemies. Their duties often force them, particularly during -the last few years, to incur the responsibility of measures that appear -very harsh; but in spite of this I have constantly noticed that they -are far from being as much hated as one would think. Latterly, however, -the agents have frequently been fired at, and several have been killed. -Nearly all discharge the same duties, from father to son for several -generations, and it is most curious that this profession is so well -known that young men intended for it commence by an apprenticeship -with one of their number, and even pay very heavy sums to obtain this -education. One case was cited to me where the young man paid a premium -of 120_l._ - -Few of them manage one estate only. Most of them have charge of -several of varying importance. For it is a curious thing that -landowners who, amongst us, would certainly never afford themselves -the luxury of a farm bailiff; people who have not more than 320_l._ -to 400_l._ a year, have in this country nearly always recourse to an -agent; but this is of course explained by the local customs to which -we have previously alluded. Most of the estates are entailed. The -proprietors are therefore, strictly speaking, only life tenants. The -land is transmitted from male to male, in order of primogeniture, and -none of the titles can be alienated. This is called the birthright of -the elder, which has existed nearly everywhere in Europe, and which, -from an economic point of view, is far from having always produced bad -results, since agriculture has never flourished so well anywhere as in -England, where the inheritance by order of birth has been more strictly -applied than anywhere else. - -It is very curious that one cause of the misery in Ireland is the -result of a custom which has been introduced, and which, if it does -not restrict the system of entail in principle, at least renders -it singularly onerous. Nearly all the deeds by which the property -is entailed give a right to the owner to burden the patrimonial -inheritance with annuities payable to the younger members of the -family. For instance, a landowner having an entailed property which -brings in 4,000_l._ has the right, should he have five children, -to burden this property, with four annuities of 200_l._ each for -the support of the younger ones. When the father dies, the eldest, -therefore, only inherits 3,200_l._ per annum, whilst he still retains -all the expenses and risks of managing the estate. If his son exercises -the same right, he will only have 2,400_l._; and thus, from generation -to generation, the property becomes more and more “encumbered,” as they -call it here. If one of the family is an economical man, or marries -an heiress, he wipes off the mortgages, and the estate regains its -nominal value; but if nothing of this kind happens--and unfortunately, -in Ireland, it very rarely does happen--the land, which cannot be sold -because it is entailed, at last becomes so overburdened that when a -bad year comes, or the rents are not paid, the landlord does not even -receive enough to pay the annuities or charges, and he is forced to -borrow at enormous interest to enable him to meet his own requirements. - -It will readily be seen how these customs aggravate the situation. In -Ireland there are a number of estates which still pay “head rents” -(or annuities) given to the younger members of the family more than -two hundred years ago. The money which has been expended upon many -estates has been constantly provided by English capitalists. Until -within the last few years, these investments were greatly sought after. -As long as the rents continued to rise all went well; but now they -are diminishing, even where they have not quite disappeared, one can -imagine what happens. I dare not say the majority, but I may say that a -great number of the Irish landowners are really reduced to insolvency. -For instance, here is a case that I can verify, because I have seen -the accounts of the estate: Lord X---- has a rent-roll that, five -years ago, amounted to 32,000_l._, but he has been obliged to agree to -a diminution of 4,000_l._ The rent-roll is therefore now reduced to -28,000_l._ If the rents were paid, which they are not, only 500_l._ -would remain as surplus in the proprietor’s hands. - -It is easy to understand the terrible results of this state of things. -The property I allude to has been seized by the creditors--English -bankers who have never entered the country--and they have appointed an -agent on their own account. Can any one reasonably expect that these -men, who are not in the receipt of any interest on their money, will -agree to fresh reductions? - -Unfortunately, if the landlords or their representatives find -themselves so placed that it is impossible for them to make the -sacrifices necessitated by the situation, it must be acknowledged that -on their side the Irish, or, at least, the Land League, often, by -their measures, render matters worse. The Irish complain bitterly of -absenteeism. The other day, at Rathmines, Sir Thomas Esmonde laid great -stress upon the fact that out of rentals amounting to 17,000,000_l._, -more than 6,000,000_l._ go out of Ireland every year to be spent in -England. I quite admit these figures. It is evident that such a drain -of capital must be disastrous. But do not the leaders of the Land -League often use all their powers to increase it? - -Two very striking cases have been mentioned to me. A few years ago a -regiment was stationed at Limerick. The officers were all very rich, -and spent a great deal of money in the town. One day, I do not know -under what circumstances, the regiment openly avowed its anti-Home Rule -sympathies. It was immediately boycotted; every tradesman refused to -supply, not only the soldiers and officers, but even their families. -Feelings became embittered; quarrels were of daily occurrence; and the -regiment was recalled to England, and was not replaced--a net loss to -the town of 40,000_l._ a year. Is it just to reproach the English -Government for this state of things? - -Another example: a very rich Irish officer settled at Bruree, near -Limerick, and bought a pack of foxhounds, arranging the hunt on -the most liberal scale. He had a hundred or a hundred and fifty -hounds, thirty or forty horses, sixty or eighty keepers, grooms and -men-servants, indoors and out. - -After a few disputes with his tenants, the Land League boycotted him; -and the first time the hounds went out they were poisoned. He at once -dismissed all his servants, closed his house, and established himself -in Northamptonshire. It is calculated that the county now loses -20,000_l._ or 24,000_l._ per annum through his departure. He is another -“absentee”--but through whose fault? - -It is the Land League’s misfortune to pursue two objects, and for the -sake of one it often turns its back upon the other. The Land Leaguers -are first filled with hatred against England; they wage desperate war -against her by every means that they have at their disposal. We can -understand a little of this feeling when we read the atrocities that -the English have committed in this country even to a comparatively -recent date. - -“Vengeance is a divine pleasure,” says a poet; but he omitted to add -that, as a rule, vengeance is a very expensive pleasure. The Irish -are wrong in wishing and in endeavouring to avenge themselves and to -improve their position at the same time; they must choose between the -two ideas. In driving the owner of Bruree away they avenged themselves; -but they have changed the situation of this little corner of Ireland -very much for the worse; and the same thing that happened at Bruree has -taken place in a hundred other localities. - -Mr. Sanders left me at Mallow, which we reached about half-past one. He -was obliged to go to a small village in the neighbourhood, where he had -to carry out an eviction on the following morning. He had requisitioned -a force of constabulary, of which one detachment came in our train. For -a few minutes I walked alone on the platform, and then I noticed a man -coming towards me, of middle height, thick-set, carefully shaved, his -face quite sunburnt, under very short, quite white hair. He introduces -himself as Mr. Townsend Trench, to whom some mutual friends living -in Paris have given me letters of introduction, and he had been kind -enough to come and meet me to take me to his usual residence, Lansdowne -Lodge, at Kenmare, from which he had been absent some weeks, but he was -now returning home on purpose to receive and welcome me. - -Mr. Trench is one of the best known persons in Ireland; his agency -is one of the most important; the estates that he manages certainly -represent the superficial area of a whole county, and are situated -in the most disturbed regions. Therefore, in the eyes of five or -six thousand tenants and their families, he is the incarnation of -landlordism; on him centres all the odium of the measures that he has -been forced to take during the war that has now lasted four years, -and he has never attempted to evade his responsibility. In all the -Parliamentary inquiries when he has been called to give evidence, he -has always spoken with unparalleled clearness. Moreover, he is not a -Roman Catholic; he does not even belong to the Established Church, -but is one of the most active members of a particular sect called -the Plymouth Brotherhood. Nothing was therefore lacking to prevent -his becoming the _bête noire_ of the whole country side, yet it is a -singular coincidence--and this proves the man’s real value--that of all -the agents he is perhaps the least detested. No one has ever attempted -to murder him--but this may possibly be a little due to the fact that -he is credited with being one of the best shots in Ireland; he has -never been formally boycotted--that is to say, the Land League has -never laid him under an interdict; he has even retained personal and -almost amicable relations with its principal chiefs. The other day at -Dublin, Mr. Harrington, the general secretary of the League, when he -heard that I was to be the guest of Mr. Trench, began to laugh. - -“Oh,” said he, “you are going to Trench; you could not do better to -hear the other side of the question. I knew him well formerly, and I -have preserved a great esteem for him, although we have not two ideas -in common. Tell him so from me. Have you heard the pun they have made -about him?--’One Trench is enough to drain all Ireland!’” - -Under the guidance of this man, whose personal worth is so great that -he has won respect and even sympathy from his bitterest political -enemies, I am now about to visit part of county Kerry, the most -disturbed district in Ireland. - -We took our tickets for Killarney, and from there we shall drive to -Kenmare, passing through the most picturesque scenery in the country. -Every year a number of tourists flock there, an excursion to Lake -Killarney being an indispensable item in every tour round Ireland. - -Shortly after our departure from Mallow we approached a mountainous -region, and, although trees are rare in Ireland, where there are -scarcely any forests, these mountains are covered with brushwood. The -town of Killarney itself contains 6,000 inhabitants (again I quote Mr. -Black), and it is built near to a lake. As we had nearly twenty-five -miles to drive before we could reach Kenmare we went into the hotel to -lunch. The landlord came forward to make a sad complaint to Mr. Trench. -The poor man adjudged politics, the Land League, and above all, the -newspaper reporters, to the infernal regions. There had been so many -murders in the neighbourhood, so many outrages as they say here, and -the journalists have painted the state of the country in such black -colours, that the tourists have taken fright and have gone to quieter -countries. His hotel is empty or nearly so. He appears so disconsolate -that I feel I ought to say a few consoling words to him. - -“Sir,” said I, “allow a stranger, who is quite disinterested in the -matter, to give you a little advice. You must evidently take some -steps. You must give up the timid tourist. But there exist, thank -heaven, other varieties of tourists! Why do not you examine the -position of affairs and find an attraction for romantic tourists--those -who on their return home enjoy making their neighbours shudder while -relating to them the dangers from which they have escaped during the -holidays? The Neapolitan hotels are always so full when there is -any chance of an eruption of Vesuvius that, if we can believe the -newspapers, the innkeepers there have combined and have promised a -large reward to Professor Palmieri, a man who has made the study of -volcanoes his speciality, if he will organise artificial eruptions -when the syndicates desire them. At Ajaccio an hotel-keeper of my -acquaintance subsidises a brigand, the celebrated Ballacoscia--a -wonderful man! Twice a week he leaves his house at Pentica to settle in -a very picturesque grotto above Boccognano, near the railway station. -He receives travellers there. I have known several old English ladies -who have for five pounds bought the stiletto with which he avenged his -sister’s honour. Another, to whom he gave a lock of his hair, sent to -England for a capital waterproof for him to use in his professional -excursions. All these small benefits or gains are amicably divided -between the intelligent innkeeper and the brigand, and every one is -content. Why do not you attempt something of the same kind? In your -place I should ask Mr. Trench to arrange a small eviction in the -neighbourhood every week. You may rest assured that amongst the evicted -family you could always arrange to have a venerable looking old man -and a few pretty girls who would wail together harmoniously. You could -organise excursion trains. For two shillings there might be a simple -eviction; for three shillings an old woman of ninety should be forcibly -carried from the house by the police; and for four shillings the police -should be received with volleys of stones. Take my advice, think over -the idea. Perhaps it contains the solution of the Irish question. For I -hope that you would give good fees to your company of performers.” - -The Killarney innkeeper listened to me with great interest. I heard -him mutter “Bedad! there is something in that.” And after vigorously -shaking hands he accompanied us to the carriage, where I seated myself -with Mr. Trench and his secretary, a tall young man, named Lewis. - -“You are not afraid to sit next to me?” said Mr. Trench laughing. “We -shall pass through some of our worst villages. If any one shoots at me -you will have your share of the charge.” - -“Bah!” I answered, “every landlord that I have met has been shot at two -or three times. Your boys seem very unskilful!” - -“All right! Drive on, Dick. Lewis, is your revolver loaded?” - -“Yes, sir; here it is.” - -“Ah! I must change the cartridges in mine.” - -This is how we travel through county Kerry in the year of grace 1886. - -But the surprises in store for me had not yet come to an end. - -We had scarcely gone a hundred paces before Mr. Trench showed me an -enormous building that we were passing on our right. “Do you see the -castle down there?” said he. “Lord X---- lives there. Three years ago, -after a dispute with one of his tenants, he was informed that his -castle was doomed. It had been agreed that it should be blown up with -dynamite. The Government at once sent off twenty constables, who are -still there. Ten keep guard during the day and ten during the night. -They cost the Government 2,000_l._ per annum.” - -“Do you really believe that if the men were withdrawn the castle would -be blown up?” - -“I am absolutely certain of it. The dynamite is already prepared.” - -The next moment we quitted the road and entered a fine park, bordered -by the lake. - -“We will get down here,” said Mr. Trench. “I want to show you the ruins -of Muckross Abbey.” - -Before us, on a small eminence, I saw a large wall pierced by pointed -arched windows, which I recognised at once, for all the Irish railway -carriages are ornamented with photographs of it. The abbey was founded, -it is said, in 1440. Now, only a few towers and a very curious little -cloister remain, and in the centre a magnificent yew tree has grown. -The ground outside of the chapel is still used as a cemetery for the -members of certain families. After all, in my opinion, the ruins are -hardly worthy of the reputation they have acquired. - -As we were re-entering the carriage a man came running out. - -“There’s two shillings a head to pay, please your honours,” cried he. - -“Do you take us for tourists by any chance?” said Mr. Trench, whom he -had not at first seen. - -The man, laughing, bowed low, and then without any further demand on us -ran to a carriage full of Americans who had just driven up. - -“Now look at the castle,” continued Trench. “It was built by the father -of the present owner, Mr. H----, of Muckross. He spent 40,000_l._ upon -it--something like a million of your francs. Everything that you see -is derived from the estate. Still it is what is called ‘an encumbered -estate.’ It has been seized by creditors, and Mr. H---- is now in -America. He was an officer, but was compelled to resign his commission, -and to work as clerk in a New York attorney’s office. Do you know how -they keep up the paths and replace the slates on the roof?--with the -shillings that poor old man makes the tourists pay him for relating the -history of the abbey! This is what we are reduced to in Ireland!” - -The road gradually ascended, skirting the mountains which overlook the -lake. These mountains are covered with woods containing handsome beech, -fir, and other trees, and even a few oaks. - -“Look there,” said Trench, pointing them out to me, “those are fine -trees, are they not? The Canadian and Norwegian firs are now brought to -us so cheaply that the few trees we possess are not worth the expense -of cutting down. The only deer now left in Ireland are here. From time -to time there is a hunt to amuse the tourists. After an hour the animal -takes to the water The hounds are recoupled, and the stag escapes with -a bath!” - -As we ascend, the landscape becomes more charming. At our feet on the -right we see the largest lake in Killarney, covered with islets, that -at a distance resemble bouquets of verdure. The stream that flows at -the bottom of the valley feeds three or four others that we pass by -in succession. By degrees the woods disappear, and the mountains seem -bristling with huge grey rocks. - -This rough country, however, is not a desert. Wherever the rocks have -held a little vegetable earth one sees a small field, and then by -looking carefully we finally perceive a small hut. There are people -vegetating there. - -Catching sight of one of these houses not far from the road, between us -and the stream, I asked Mr. Trench to allow me to visit it. - -“Wait a moment,” said he, “I will go with you. Tell them that you -are French, and give them a shilling, then you are certain to be well -received.” - -We descended by a goats’-path. I wish to assure my readers that the -details that follow are strictly true, and that all the figures were -written down on the spot. - -The house in front of us was about eight yards long by five wide. One -of the gables is formed by the vertical side of a large rock against -which it leans. The other gable and the two side walls are built of dry -stone. The walls are only about six feet high, but the roof is very -sloping, and this renders the inside room sufficiently lofty. - -The roof is formed of a few bundles of reeds and clods of grass which -rest on a dozen bare poles. There is neither chimney nor window, and -the earth is the floor. The smoke escapes as it best can through the -numerous holes in the roof. The little daylight that enters can only -come in by the same way. The occupiers walk about on the mud. The -hearth, on which a few clods of turf are burning, is formed by four or -five stones arranged in a circle. The opening that is used as a doorway -must also serve as the entrance for every wind, for there is not the -least trace of anything to close it with. With regard to furniture, I -can only discover a saucepan, a kind of watering pot, an old, broken -iron bedstead, on which an old blanket is thrown, and which stands to -the left of the door, between it and the rock; on the right there is a -camp bedstead, formed of a few planks supported by stakes The family, -which surrounds us, consists of a man about forty years old, his wife, -his mother-in-law, who is about seventy-seven and quite blind, and four -children from ten to two years old. I never saw such utter misery in -any part of the world. The man is covered with tattered garments that -can hardly, strictly speaking, be called clothes. He has also shoes. In -this country agriculture is all carried on with a spade. Now in order -to dig with a spade one must have shoes. This is why the men are the -only members of a family who wear anything on their feet. The nameless -rags that are wrapped round the women and children defy description. -The old woman, who is blind, as I have said, only wears a chemise and a -skirt that scarcely reaches her knees. These two garments are in such a -state that she is really almost naked. When she tries to walk she drags -herself from rock to rock in order not to fall, testing the ground -with her feet which are covered with cuts. The other woman is dressed -in about the same style. The two smaller children are quite naked, and -they certainly look the best. But it is terrible to see the sickly -skin, the hollow cheeks, and drawn features of these poor people who -are evidently suffering from hunger. - -How can it be otherwise? When the husband gets any work it is on the -road, and he earns a shilling a day; but he rarely finds anything to -do, and the money only pays the rent. The whole family must therefore -live on the produce of two cows and the potato field. I asked if I -might see it. - -A few steps from the hut a bank of rocks rises at the foot of the -mountain, the tableland thus formed arrests the soil that the rain -brings down from the heights above, the layer of vegetable mould is -therefore a little thicker there than elsewhere. It is this tableland -that has been cleared. I measured it. It is about sixty-two yards long -by twenty-nine wide. I notice that only seven or eight hundred yards of -the enclosure are really fit for cultivation. I am then shown the cows; -they are two miserable little thin beasts of the native race, called -Kerry cows; they are as thin as the horse in the Apocalypse and jump -like chamois over the rocks that surround them. I asked myself what -they could possibly find to eat. - -The man had built his own house, but, after all, that had not taken -him long. His landlord has, therefore, only given him the field I have -just seen, and the right of pasturage for his two cows, while for this -handsome establishment, that he pompously calls a farm, the wretched -man pays 3_l._ per annum. The price is absolutely ridiculous; but even -if he paid nothing at all, supposing he was given the whole place, -a field of sixty-two yards long by twenty-nine wide cannot possibly -provide food for a family of six or seven persons, nor even provide -work for the man. Nor is there any manufacture in the neighbourhood -which could employ him. If he were the owner instead of the tenant, -even if he had not one penny of taxes nor of rent to pay, he and his -family would still die of hunger; and I defy all those gentlemen in -O’Connell Street to prove the contrary. What, then, is the object of -making him a landowner? They would attach him to the soil like a rock; -and the soil will not feed him. At least, in the present state of -things; he would go away if he retains any common-sense. Nothing could -be droller--if it is possible to use this word in speaking of such sad -subjects--than the manner in which these little inquiries are made. Mr. -Trench was the first to enter the house, twirling his shillalah with an -easy air. The two women, crouched in a corner near the fire, did not -move; the youngest only looked askance at us. - -“Good morning, ladies! How are you?” said Mr. Trench. - -A grunt was the only answer. - -“Here is a French gentleman who wishes to see your house. You well know -what Frenchmen are!” - -“Ah! your honour!” stammered the old woman. “There--I have heard of the -French! may the blessed Virgin Mary be with them! Will they not come -soon? When they are here we shall be less miserable! God bless them!” - -The young one joined in chorus. We heard a running fire of pious -ejaculations, to each of which Mr. Trench devoutly shouted “Amen!” -The noise made it impossible to hear oneself speak. The old woman -was particularly terrible, her voice was so piercing. Then from time -to time Trench gave a great thump on the ground with his stick, -exclaiming, though still with the utmost politeness, “Whish’t! my dear -madam! whish’t!” I had always heard that “whish’t” meant silence. It -appears that this is so, only it is not in English, but in Irish. But I -never saw anything so strange as the way in which the conversation was -thus carried on. It had, at all events, the effect of putting us on the -best terms with the whole family--a result which the distribution of a -few sixpences perhaps tended to accelerate. The women then conducted us -back to the carriage, overwhelming us with the noisiest benedictions. - -“Let me understand,” said I to Mr. Trench as soon as we were a little -way from the cottage. “Will you explain to me how you can ask 3_l._ -rent from those unfortunate people for less than an acre of very bad -land and for the right of valueless pasturage that is absolutely -visionary, for you see the state of his two cows?” - -“Allow me to wait a few moments before answering your questions,” he -replied. - -Ten minutes later we came to a bend in the road, which having now -reached the top of the hillock that we had been ascending since we -left Killarney, turns suddenly to the left, and then re-descends -into another valley, still wilder than the first, and where there -are no more trees. The names in this country are so diabolic that I -avoid writing them down as much as possible, because I foresee that -the proofs would have to be sent at least four times to the printers -before we could expect the compositors to reproduce them as they are -spelt. Another thing is that nine-tenths of my French readers would -abandon the attempt to read them. For instance, the valley we have -just passed through is called Coom-a-Dhuv; the last lake we saw is -the Loc-an-bric-Dearg; the mountain opposite is Cro-mag-lan; and the -pass by which we go from one valley to another bears the soft name -of Derrygariff. One of my old relations often excites herself about -the obstinacy that leads English people to say _pocket-handkerchief_ -when it would be so much easier to pronounce _mouchoir de poche_. -And really, without going so far as this worthy lady, I cannot help -thinking that it must be very tiring in the end to be obliged to utter -such long words, and that it must seriously complicate existence. - -We are now at Derrygariff, since there is a Derrygariff. On the right -side of the road stands a horrible house of dry stones, from which an -old woman came out, very dry too, and not less tattered than those whom -we had just left. On seeing her, Trench abruptly leaned back in the -carriage. She rushed towards us, crying in a whining voice: - -“Just a penny, your honour! And may the Blessed Virgin be with your -honour!” - -“Amen,” growled Trench, suddenly showing himself like a devil springing -from a holy-water vase. - -The old woman drew back thunderstruck. - -“Tell me then, Mrs. Finnigan; will you please tell me who authorised -you to settle under-tenants on your land?” - -“Holy Virgin! Mother of God!” said Mrs. Finnigan, stupefied. Then, at -once assuming an amiable expression: - -“Eh! is it good Mr. Trench? May God protect him! He’s a sight to cure -sore eyes. And I took him for a tourist!” - -“I see that,” continued Trench, “and you are not ashamed to beg, -although, to my knowledge, you have 500_l._ in the bank at Kenmare? But -you have not answered my question. Who is this under-tenant that you -have settled on your land?” - -“Oh, Mr. Trench! To accuse us of under-letting our land. Holy Mother -of God! Never! It is only a poor man who asked leave to settle there; -now we can’t turn him off; and then, taking pity upon him, we engaged -him as caretaker, and we are only paid for the land he occupies by his -work upon ours, or upon the roads, because my husband has undertaken -the care of the roads. Your honour, the poor must help each other, your -honour!” - -“Ah! Just so. I see how it is,” said Trench. “Drive on, Dick.” - -Then, turning towards me: - -“Now do you understand? You heard that impudent hussy explain in a few -words the system of under-tenants, which is one of the worst plagues -in Ireland, and for which they account us responsible. Finnigan, -her husband, rents a farm of ninety acres; he also has the right of -pasturage on the mountains. As far as I recollect, he pays a rent of -15_l._ or 20_l._ a year. You see that it is pretty moderate; and the -proof that it is not let too dearly is that he has made large savings, -in spite of the bad years that we have passed through. He is an active, -intelligent man, but horribly avaricious. You saw the house he lives -in; he would not improve it for anything in the world, because his -wife and children never fail to ask alms from passing tourists, and he -considers that it is especially desirable to arouse their pity. Now, -without saying a word to us, he under-lets the land. You have just -seen one of his tenants; perhaps he has three or four others hidden in -different corners; and you have heard the money he demands from them. -His rents are never in arrear; they are even paid in advance, because -he is careful to have them paid by the man’s work. - -“You must remember that this arrangement is strictly forbidden; first -by the lease, and afterwards by the law. To avoid difficulties, -the unfortunate man is reported as his landlord’s servant. He can, -therefore, at any moment be turned out of the house that he has built -himself. - -“What can be done in the matter? I could certainly get rid of him by -ejectment. But I should have to summons him, then obtain a company -of soldiers, receive stones and mud from the whole population; risk -a fight, in which one or two men may be killed; and then be called a -tyrant by the newspapers. From time to time, when the abuse gets too -flagrant, I make an example, but as a rule I close my eyes. - -“Good heavens!” he continued, “I don’t know what they reproach us for! -First they say that in bygone days the land was confiscated--taken -from its rightful owners. We will admit that to be true. Four or five -hundred years have passed since the event took place that they are -alluding to. But how did the old landowners get possession of the land? -By conquest, as a rule, if not always. And why should conquest create a -more legitimate title than confiscation? - -“Besides, I altogether deny that all the landed estates in this country -were acquired through confiscation. We are, at this moment, on the -Marquis of Lansdowne’s estate, the present Governor of Canada. He owns -100,000 acres here, all in a ring fence. Now this is how the estate -came into the family. - -“You see how bad the land is. Two hundred years ago the country was -absolutely a desert. At that time all the mountains you now see bare -were covered with forests; in the last century they were cut down to -provide the wood required for fuel. One of the ancestors of the present -marquis came over, settled here, and obtained a concession of the -land on the condition that he brought it into cultivation. At his own -expense he brought the labourers. He built the town of Kenmare, where -we are now going. It still belongs entirely to the family. Afterwards, -in recognition of his services, he received the title of Marquis of -Lansdowne. - -“He therefore created the property. It did not exist before he came to -the country. The land was as barren as Greenland may be now. He brought -the soil into good condition, and all the ancestors of the people now -living here came with him. I do not say that in Ireland there are many -estates that have the same history as this one; but can there be in -the whole world a property which has a more legitimate and respectable -origin? - -“How can they say that the landowners have not done enough for their -estates? Assuredly there are some of them who are not above reproach -on this score. But towards many of them the accusation is most unjust. -This estate never brought in more than 15,000_l._; now it only produces -7,000_l._ Since I have managed it I have spent more than 25,000_l._ -in improvements of every description, and, I may add, in improvements -that are quite unproductive for the owner, since the income is always -decreasing. Look at that small house. I built it last year for a tenant -with whom I was much pleased, and whom I wished to encourage. It cost -me 120_l._, and his rent--which was not increased one penny--is 14_l._ - -“Now, look over there, at that group of abominable tumble-down huts, -which are quite as bad as the one we visited just now. One of the -tenants had six sons. He gave up portions of the farm in order to -settle them upon it. Each of them, when he married, built a house, and -he now lives here, cultivating the tenth part of the original farm, -which did not exceed about thirty acres. These divisions were all made -without our permission. Each of the sons has five or six children; -there are therefore thirty acres of land--and bad land too--from which -they expect to get food for forty-five or fifty persons, and this in -a country which, properly speaking, is only fit for stock raising! How -can they escape dying of hunger? They answer by telling me that in -certain parts of China the land supports still more people. - -“Apparently the climate and the land are better there than with us; -here it is impossible. When one is dealing with the first tenant, one -calculates that a family of five or six people can live off the farm; -now they want to make it support forty or fifty. There is a limit to -the earth’s productiveness, and this limit has been already passed. - -“We must always return to the fact that the great misfortune is the -lack of manufactures. I have done all in my power to acclimatise them -over here, but I have never succeeded. I asked a celebrated geologist -to come and examine and ascertain what resources the country might -offer. He left at the end of a week, telling me that he should be -robbing me if he stayed any longer. There is a little iron, but since -we have no coal to work it with we cannot hope to make it profitable. - -“I turned to another quarter for help. If we had not the raw material, -at least labour was cheap. We thought that we might utilise that by -establishing a manufactory which would have for its aim the production -of objects that required but little raw material. Our railway companies -import all their requisites from England. I wrote to some English -capitalists: we had been studying to ascertain if these requisites -could not be made in Ireland. Whatever combinations were adopted, even -at the lowest calculation, we could never see our way to pay more than -3 per cent. on the capital invested. Another thing, who would be mad -enough to establish a manufactory in a country where now every one is -at the mercy of an occult and irresponsible power like the Land League, -which has often prevented vessels from loading or unloading, solely -because the owner of the ship had infringed or not obeyed some of its -orders? Imagine a factory suddenly boycotted without warning! What -would become of the shareholders? - -“It is only too evident that the present state of things cannot last. -Is it admissible that a Government should spend 2,000_l._ per annum -for an indefinite period to keep policemen on guard over that castle I -have just shown you? It would be easier and more economical to let the -Nationalists blow it up, except for the indemnity to which the owner -might become entitled. But there are ten others in the same position. - -“Where is the remedy? Unhappily, we cannot see any sign of it. Mr. -Gladstone has come to an understanding with the Land League, and one -plan is now proposed. They wish to dispossess the landlords, and to -make the peasants landowners. But let us consider what the practical -results of that measure would be. Let us take, for instance, the case -of the tenant of whom we were speaking just now. He has not paid one -penny of rent for the last three years. Are he and his forty children -and grandchildren any richer on that account? They are near dying of -hunger; and if they should die of hunger, it is because they insist -upon existing on the produce of thirty acres of very middling land. -If we imagine him the owner of the thirty acres, in what way will the -situation be improved? Will that change make the land any better, or -the climate less moist? - -“Besides, he would not retain the ownership very long. In every -village there is a pawnbroker, on whose premises all the furniture -accumulates belonging to the peasants, and who often buys their -harvests before they are reaped. They are all in debt to the grocer and -to the manure merchant--even the bonnets worn by the women on Sundays -are all bought on credit. Three months after the land had been given to -them they would have found means to mortgage it, if possible, at double -its value. - -“More than that, is it quite certain that they wish to become -landowners as much as is pretended? It does not seem at all certain to -me. As soon as the principles of the Land Act were known, a landlord, -whose property I manage, wrote to me, saying that he authorised me -to treat with all his tenants on that basis. He has more than eight -hundred! I gave them all the opportunity of accepting the arrangement; -they all refused, without a single exception. - -“However, some of them told me that they were willing to treat with me, -but the conditions they proposed were absolutely inadmissible. Judge -for yourself. - -“They desired that I should accept as a basis, not the reduced rents -that had been already fixed by the Land Commissioners, who, however, -had already reduced the rentals on an average from 25 to 30 per cent., -but that those rents should again be reduced 25 per cent. Then instead -of multiplying this figure by 20, according to the provisions of the -Land Act, making the price of purchase 20 years’ rent, they wished to -multiply it by 12 or 13 only. So that the owner of a property that five -years ago brought in 400_l._, and was then worth about 8,000_l._ or -9,000_l._ first saw his rents reduced by 100_l._, and then by the terms -of the Land Act, the price of expropriation or forced sale would have -been but 6,000_l._ (300_l._ × 20); he had already therefore to submit -to a loss of from 2,000_l._ to 3,000_l._ of his capital. But I was -authorised to accept this valuation. - -“They, however, proposed to diminish the original rental by another -25 per cent., which would thereby be reduced to 200_l._, and then by -multiplying the 200_l._ by 12, the purchase-money would be 2,400_l._, -twelve years’ purchase. They, therefore, would have it inferred that in -five years the property had lost more than three-fourths of its value. - -“Now on nine-tenths of all Irish estates the annual charges and -expenses exceed, and greatly exceed, one-fourth of the average income. -Nine times out of ten, therefore, the indemnity for expropriation would -not suffice to pay off the debts. Not a single penny would reach the -unlucky proprietors. Frankly, now, can we wonder that they refuse to -aid in their own ruin?” - -Whilst he was speaking to me I was looking at the country we were -passing through. An artist would find a certain charm in it, but in the -eyes of an agriculturist its appearance is lamentable. On all sides -are rocky, barren mountains; we have not seen a tree since we left -Derrygariff. The streams daily wash a little more of the thin layer -of vegetable mould from the great schistic blocks that are visible -on all sides, carrying it down to the turf pits that fill the bottom -of the valley. The destruction of the forests has been another great -misfortune for this country, and I asked Mr. Trench if he had never -tried to re-establish plantations. - -“Replant!” said he. “In the first place, as I have already told you, -wood has no value here because of the timber imported from Canada and -Norway; and in the second, if I replanted the mountains, the farmers -would hasten to complain to the Land League that I was depriving their -cattle of pasturage, and my plantations would soon cease to exist. -They all have goats; and you know how little time goats require to -destroy young trees. If I wished to replant these mountains or simply -to cultivate them on a new method, I must begin by sending the tenants -away. Mr. Adair tried to do it, and you know how that business ended.” - -I had heard Mr. Adair’s history. A few years ago it was much discussed -both in Ireland and England. It is one of the most typical cases that -I can quote. It shows that in this unhappy country the most elementary -exercise of the rights of ownership may entail serious complications. - -In 1859 Mr. Adair bought the estate of Derryveigh, in Donegal. It was a -very mountainous and very poor district. There was scarcely any of the -land under cultivation; the tenants only kept a few cows and goats. - -Rightly or wrongly, Mr. Adair thought that sheep-breeding would -be profitable. But to organise that undertaking he was obliged to -make some alterations in the farms, and thereby produced great -dissatisfaction amongst the population. One day the sheep disappeared -as though by magic. The peasants declared that they had died of hunger -on the mountains, and, in fact, a great many of them were found dead -at the bottom of the precipices, but Mr. Adair’s shepherds asserted -that the sheep had been stolen, and the strict search instituted by -the police confirmed their statements, for undeniable proofs were -found that a certain number of them had been eaten. The County Court -accepted the facts, and condemned the parishes to pay rather heavy -damages to Mr. Adair, and this naturally considerably envenomed their -relations. At length one evening the chief shepherd did not return from -an expedition he had made on the mountain. His body was found--he had -been murdered; but the peasants assisted the police so badly that the -murderers were never discovered. - -Mr. Adair was exasperated to the last degree. The crime took place near -the hamlet of Glenveigh, and it was also here that traces of the lost -sheep had been found. He declared that he considered the tenants at -Glenveigh morally responsible for all that had happened, and that he -intended getting rid of them all. - -When this decision was announced the priest and the Protestant minister -sent him a joint letter, pointing out that the consequences of such a -determination must weigh heavily upon the innocent, and begging him not -to carry out his intentions. - -Mr. Adair replied that his decision was irrevocable; all the tenants -must leave Glenveigh. But, in recognition of the fact that there might -be some foundation for his correspondents’ observations, he declared -that he was ready to find new farms on another part of the estate, and -for which he would grant leases, to all the old tenants who could bring -letters of recommendation from either of the reverend gentlemen. - -I cannot resist entering into the minutest details of this story, for -it reveals a state of affairs that, to us Frenchmen, appears quite -incomprehensible. I have taken all these details from _New Ireland_--a -very interesting book by Mr. Sullivan, one of the most eminent members -of the Irish Nationalist party. Mr. Gray, the editor of the _Freeman’s -Journal_, advised me to read it, telling me that it is one of the -best written books that have appeared on Ireland. I am convinced that -the author fully intended to relate these events with the utmost -impartiality. But, after all, if he shows a little partiality in -his recitals, it is evidently not for Mr. Adair, whose conduct he -stigmatises as frightful. - -Well, here are the facts. Mr. Adair believed that a small village, -entirely occupied by his tenants, was a nest of thieves. And he had -good reason to believe it, since the police had given him the proofs. -Moreover, one of his servants had been killed, and everything seemed -to indicate that the murderer, if he did not belong to the village, -was, at all events, well known to the inhabitants. It is impossible, in -my opinion, not to think that Mr. Adair acted very wisely. And I must -add that his propositions to the priest and the minister appear to me -indications of an intention to pursue a most moderate course. - -But I go still further. What landowner in France has not found it -necessary to join three farms into one simply to diminish the number of -buildings, and to reduce the working expenses? To do this he is obliged -to send away two farmers. Who dare maintain that in doing so he was -committing a criminal action? Is any progress possible if this theory -be admitted? But we will continue the story of Glenveigh. - -Mr. Adair, therefore, gave due and formal notice to all the inhabitants -of Glenveigh that they must leave their houses. Not one of them moved. -On the contrary, they all intimated that they would offer every -resistance, if not active, at least passive, to any endeavour to turn -them out. Mr. Adair, therefore, according to custom, presented himself -before the authorities at Dublin, and, having affirmed upon oath that -he considered that the men employed in the eviction would be exposed to -personal danger in the discharge of their duties, he demanded that they -should be protected by the police. The authorities thoroughly shared -his views on the subject, and at once ordered a regular army corps to -proceed to his assistance. Two hundred constables assembled, and thirty -soldiers, under the command of an officer from Dublin garrison, joined -their party. - -These operations commenced on the 8th April, and here I recite as -literally as possible: - -When they reached Lough-Barra the police halted. The sheriff, -accompanied by a small escort, advanced towards a house occupied by -a widow named M’Award, aged sixty, who lived there with her seven -children--six girls and one boy. - -The sheriff, forced to carry out his painful duties, entered the house -and put Mr. Adair’s agent in possession. - -Six men, engaged for the purpose, immediately began to pull down the -house. The scene that followed baffles description. The despair of the -unhappy widow and her daughters amounted to frenzy. Stretched on the -floor, they at first appeared insensible, but soon recovering, they -gave vent to that terrible Irish lamentation called the ‘Irish wail.’ -The whole valley resounded with their cries. - -All the inhabitants burst into tears. - -The eviction was not ended until Monday evening. Before leaving his -house for the last time an old man of eighty knelt down and kissed the -doorpost. His wife and children imitated his example. - -In the evening the scene became particularly distressing. None of these -unfortunate people had been able to resign themselves to leave the -ruins of their homes. They lighted fires and camped out under a pouring -rain, sheltering themselves as they best could under the hedges. - -Mr. Sullivan then relates that a subscription was immediately raised. -Funds arrived from all sides. An Irish Society in Australia offered -to defray all the expenses of the voyage if the unhappy people would -emigrate. They had already dispersed. However, traces of them all were -soon discovered; some of them were dead. One man, named Bradley, had -gone mad. - -When all those who were willing to leave were assembled, they first -went to the cemetery to gather some blades of grass from the graves of -their parents, to carry away as mementoes of their home. Their priest, -the Rev. Mr. O’Fadden, accompanied them to Liverpool. This young priest -had never, since their troubles, ceased to pay the most admirable and -devoted attention to them. - -I was on the quay at Dublin, continued Mr. Sullivan, when these -unfortunate people embarked and quitted Irish soil. I prayed to God, -that in His mercy He would compensate them for the misery they had -endured. Six months later, I received a letter from Mr. O’Grady, -telling me that they had all arrived safely at their destination, and -that they started in the colony with every chance of success. - -This story is certainly very touching; but, after all, the moral of -it, if it contains one at all, is that those people, who were very -unhappy in Ireland, are now prospering in Australia, and that if they -were invited to return to Glenveigh they would probably all refuse. - -But if Mr. Sullivan, with the money produced by his book, should buy -a house and let it, how could he, if he felt inclined to change the -internal arrangements, turn his tenant out?--this is what I should like -to know. And if the old man of eighty was so unwilling to leave his -native land, why did he not ask the Rev. Mr. O’Fadden to speak to Mr. -Adair for him, and he would then have received a tenancy where he could -have died in peace? - -We reached Kenmare about six o’clock. It is a pretty little port, -situated on one of the deepest of the innumerable bays that the great -Atlantic rollers have washed out of the west coast of Ireland; they -form havens that would be invaluable for commerce--if there were any. -There is a gate in the chief square of Kenmare, I may say the only -square, through which we enter a beautiful park, and in the midst of -it stands one of those small English villas, which look foolish when -they are placed side by side in a row, but which, standing alone, are -really charming. This one is hidden under a thick mantle of climbing -plants, through which the large glass panes of the bow windows glitter -brightly. This is Lansdowne Lodge, the residence provided by the -Marquis of Lansdowne for the use of his agent. - -The interior is not less delightful than the exterior. The hall is -ornamented with a number of deer and elk horns, found in admirable -preservation in the turf pits. I had already seen some superb -specimens the other day at Sir Croker Barrington’s. To the left opens a -dining-room, where at eight o’clock some of the inhabitants of Kenmare -assembled, to whom Mr. Trench wished to introduce me. The chief dish on -the table was a splendid salmon that one of these gentlemen had killed -two hours before. The conversation was most lively and interesting, -but really whilst listening to it one feels in a dream. For instance, -I discover that in compliment to me these gentlemen have consented to -dine away from home, but that it is a very exceptional circumstance, -and they are not sure that they may not regret it. No one dare go -out at night for fear of being shot. One of them, who is employed on -the estate, has just heard that he is to be boycotted, because of an -eviction in which he was concerned. He expected that on the morrow the -butcher would refuse to supply him with meat, but he consoled himself -by the reflection that he had some biscuits and some tins of preserves -in the house. - -After dinner we went to Mr. Trench’s study to smoke. I sat down by a -small table on which stood a candlestick, and placed my coffee by it. - -“Excuse me, dear sir,” said one of the guests, addressing me, half -laughing, half serious, “but you are wrong to sit there. You see, if -any one fired at us through the window you might be hurt. There, allow -me to move your chair a little. Now you are safe. And besides, hanging -on the wall within reach of your hand you have a loaded revolver and a -tomahawk--both excellent weapons. Try the edge of the tomahawk. Look, -too, on the mantel-piece, there is a bowie knife; some people prefer a -bowie knife, but I like the tomahawk best, and this one is extremely -sharp.” - -I effusively thanked this amiable gentleman. The conversation became -general, and the guests discussed weapons. Each drew a revolver from -his pocket and warmly defended his own theories. They all agreed that -Mr. Trench’s revolver was too small. He was sitting about five or six -paces from me on the other side of the chimney. - -“Ah!” said they, “you may be the best shot in the country, but you are -wrong to use such a short weapon, it cannot be relied on; you would -miss a man at ten paces.” - -“You say that I could not be sure of my aim!” cried Mr. Trench; “you -shall see.” - -Instantly I heard a frightful noise, in which I distinguished three -reports, a sound of broken glass, and then I felt on my back and head -a succession of tiny pricks, as though all the archers of Lilliput -were shooting at me. Thinking it was a Fenian attack I sprang to the -tomahawk, seized the revolver in the other hand, and, entrenched behind -my arm-chair, I awaited events. - -It was only Mr. Trench who had fired at the candle within a foot of my -head. The first two bullets had simply broken the sconce, the last had -cut the candle in two, and one of the balls had struck a box of steel -pens that had been placed on a what-not; the pens had flown into the -air, and some had fallen into my collar and had produced the pricking. - -After warmly congratulating the master of the house, the guests took -leave of us, we conducting them to the door. There each one grasped his -shillalah with the left hand and his revolver with the right, and we -saw them passing all the clumps of trees carefully and at a respectful -distance. For ourselves, after watching them for a minute we securely -barricaded the door, and I was then shown to a capital room, where I -slept in an excellent bed. - -But what an extraordinary country! - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - AN AGENT’S MORNING--HOW A DAIRY IS FOUNDED--MR. O’LEARY’S - CASE--MINISTER AND ARCHDEACON--CATHOLIC ORGANISATION IN - IRELAND--THE DISTRESS OF THE TAX-PAYERS AT KENMARE--AN INDIGNATION - MEETING--THE IRISH CONSTABULARY. - - -_July 8._--When I came down stairs this morning, the sitting-rooms -presented a most animated scene. The library floor had disappeared -under a litter of papers, and of half-opened deed boxes. Mr. Trench -stood before his bureau emptying the pigeon-holes, where all his -correspondence had accumulated during his absence. His two secretaries, -seated in a corner, classed all the letters, as soon as he had looked -through them, making notes, in large registers, of the instructions -given them by their chief. Mr. Trench appeared to be discharging the -double duties of “agent” and magistrate. - -To me he even seemed, at times, to be filling a third office; that of -doctor--of amateur doctor, to be sure, but all the more appreciated, -because his advice and his remedies were given gratuitously. From time -to time, the door opened and a bundle of rags appeared, from which -issued a voice of lamentation. This was an old woman, who had come -to ask for a prescription. Special aptitude is required to practise -medicine in this country; for it appears that, as a rule, every -village possesses an old woman, who, for a small salary, undertakes -to go in search of the doctor, giving as though for herself an exact -account of the illness from which the real patient, who does not show -himself, is suffering, but to whom she faithfully delivers the medicine -that has been given to her. This system has the advantage of avoiding -journeys and expense on the patient’s account, for the old woman, who -is always the most miserable in the district, receives the medicine and -advice gratis from the county. But these customs render the diagnosis -curiously complicated. - -It is not only invalids who, this morning, flock to Mr. Trench. There -are also a great many farmers. Twenty-five or thirty are waiting -grouped before the door. They are tall, thin fellows, with short -breeches, and high-crowned hats pulled down over their eyes, each -holding a blackthorn shillalah under one arm. Still smoking their -little short pipes, they gesticulate, talk and laugh, with so much -animation that from time to time one of the secretaries interposes -with “Hush, hush!” Each man, when admitted in his turn, begins by -carefully putting out his pipe, and placing it in his waistcoat pocket; -then, taking off his hat, his whole physiognomy suddenly changes its -expression. The man, lively a minute before, assumes a broken-hearted -attitude as he crosses the threshold of the office, and begins in a -dolorous voice the litany, now so well known by every landowner in the -country: “The year is very bad. The cattle will not sell!” - -However, a good many bring something on account, and it is easy to -see that the relations are much less strained here than in many other -parts. These sums on account are not large. Mr. Trench told me -yesterday that usually at this season he receives 400_l._ per week, -but that this year he does not receive more than 40_l._ This is not -brilliant certainly; but, however, they must not complain. The priest -at Kenmare, a president of the Land League, is a gentle, conciliating -man; he is on the best terms with Mr. Trench, and through each doing -his best, they have, until now, prevented a complete rupture. - -Knowing that Mr. Trench would be very busy this morning, one of our -guests of the previous evening had offered to fetch me in order to do -the honours of Kenmare. I could not be in better hands. Mr. C---- is -the greatest merchant in the town; he knows the country thoroughly, and -has always managed to keep good friends with everybody. There are not -many Irishmen who can say as much at the present time. - -We remained for some time talking to the farmers at the door. I made -the acquaintance of one of them, who is the director of the dairy -founded on the estate by Mr. Trench--a dairy which has produced such -good results that a second is now being started. - -This creation deserves some notice. The Land League declares that the -landowners and their agents are leeches that are exhausting Ireland, -and that they never attempt to develop her resources. Is this true? It -appears to me that here is one instance proving the contrary. Judge for -yourselves. - -The production of butter is the great industry of the country. We may -almost say it is the only one. Now this industry is worked under the -most deplorable conditions. As a rule, the very poor farmers only -possess four or five milch cows. They are therefore obliged to keep -their cream some time before churning it. Besides, we can imagine -what the dairies must be in a country where the people are lodged as -they are here--usually the milk-pans stand in a corner of the single -room where the whole family sleep together. Under these circumstances -the butter can only be very inferior, and it is so much so, that it -is always sold in London for sevenpence or eightpence per pound less -than our Normandy butters. Some qualities are so bad that they never -sell for more than tenpence the pound, and an Irish member, Major -Saunderson, lately stated in the House of Commons, that the merchants -could only use it to mix with margarine: it was _only fit to adulterate -butterine_. - -It was this unsatisfactory state of things that Mr. Trench wished -to improve by creating a central factory, where the milk is brought -every day, and where the butter can be made under the most favourable -conditions. Mr. C---- related to me how the business had been arranged. -This is another curious specimen of social customs. - -First of all, it was necessary to obtain the farmers’ co-operation. Mr. -Trench therefore assembled the inhabitants of two or three villages, -in order to explain the proposed scheme to them. Irishmen will walk -ten miles to be present at a meeting, so on the day named, Mr. Trench, -arriving at the spot appointed, found himself in the presence of a -crowd of two or three thousand persons. - -“Boys,” said he, “I intended speaking to you in the schoolroom, but it -is not possible; there are too many of you. Fetch me a table, put it -there near the trunk of this tree; it will do for a platform.” - -The table was ready in a second. He climbed upon it and explained his -idea. The crowd, at first indifferent, became visibly antagonistic. -Some agents of the Land League were present, and the great majority of -the men assembled were manifestly hostile. Luckily Mr. Trench caught -sight of a priest who had come with the others. - -“Boys,” said he, at the end of his speech, “you do not seem enchanted -with my proposals. You know that I cannot discuss it separately with -each one of you. But there is Father X----. Let him come on the table -by my side; he will tell you what he thinks of it all.” - -Much surprised, Father X---- mounted the table and commenced to speak. -He raised some objections, but listened attentively to Mr. Trench’s -reasoning, and ended by declaring that, to him, the idea seemed -excellent. - -This was quite enough to produce a complete change. The case was won; -applause broke out on all sides; those nearest to the table already -proposed carrying Mr. Trench in triumph. He resumed his speech. Once -the principle was declared good, it became necessary to decide upon a -place for the first dairy. Then the whole thing was spoilt. These men, -who one minute before would not hear of a dairy at all, now quarrelled -as to which village should possess it. At first they only abused each -other, but as their tempers warmed, the shillalahs began to play. A -formidable tumult commenced, the table was upset, Mr. Trench and the -curate rolled into each other’s arms, and only picked themselves up to -run away as fast as they could in great danger of having their skulls -cracked in the brawl, a misfortune which happened to two or three -dozen of those present. This meeting is still discussed on the country -side. It was what they term “an illigant foight.” - -At last the dairy was founded and worked to the general satisfaction. -Every one brings his milk, and is paid accordingly. The results are -very satisfactory, in the sense that the butter, being well made, is -sold for two or three pence more than other kinds, though it is still a -long way from any rivalry with the Normandy butter--a decided proof of -the inferiority of the pasturage in this country. - -I said, just now, that the situation is less strained here than in many -other parts. But that does not mean that it is very brilliant. After -talking to the manager of the dairy, I went into the office to say -good-bye to Mr. Trench, whom I should not meet again before luncheon. -He was reading a letter just brought to him. “There,” said he, giving -it to me, “you have just come in time. Look what has taken place during -my absence.” - -I have this letter on my table whilst I write these lines. I wish -I could copy it _in extenso_. Unfortunately it is too long. I must -therefore confine myself to giving a summary of its contents. It is -another study from the life. - -We must first mention that the barony where we now are is called -Kilgawan, and that on it there is a farm called Ballinaconiga. What -names, ye gods! For a long time this farm was occupied by a certain -O’Leary who yielded his soul to God two years ago, leaving two -sons, Tim and James. The elder, who took on the farm, died shortly -afterwards, owing several quarters in arrear. Tim’s widow and -daughters wished to continue his business, but the agent, who had not -found the deceased a very satisfactory tenant, would not consent to the -arrangement, but insisted that the farm should be ceded to the younger -brother, James O’Leary. They agreed to this with fairly good grace, -but changing their minds after some time, they wrote a complaint to -the Land League, and its agents, only too happy to find an opportunity -for exercising authority, assured them that they were in the right, -and informed James O’Leary that he must leave the farm immediately. He -refused and was boycotted in consequence. - -These events happened some months ago. Since then he has found it -impossible to sell anything in the market. His wife and daughters -appeared at church on the Sunday following the notice served by the -League, but were so hustled and knocked about that their clothes were -torn to pieces, and they dared not go again. His little boy went to -school; a week ago, when he entered the room, all the other children -got up and went out. The same thing happened on three successive days, -so the school was closed. - -This state of things has lasted for the greater part of the winter. -With the appearance of spring they invented something new. Every Sunday -afternoon a hundred or a hundred and fifty people assemble before his -door, led by his sister-in-law and his nieces. The whole party go into -a large field of oats, which is in front of the house, and there begin -a game of _football_. When night arrives they disperse, shouting to -him that they will come back on the following Sunday. Whilst his oats -were still too young to be hurt, the unfortunate O’Leary bore this -annoyance patiently, but when they commenced to grow he could endure -it no longer. Last Sunday when he saw the game arranged, he opened his -window and warned the aggressors that he would fire upon them if they -did not go away. They answered by hooting (this is called “boo-ing” in -the country), and then by a volley of stones and mud. He fired both -barrels of his gun, loaded with small shot, into the crowd. A man and -two women fell wounded. The poor fellow was at once arrested and taken -to prison. Yesterday he was released on bail; but he must appear at the -assizes, and, since the jury will probably be formed of Land Leaguers, -he is sure to be condemned. - -This is one of the great difficulties of the situation. In France the -juries often pronounce strange enough verdicts. But how can this system -produce satisfactory results in a country so profoundly disturbed as -this is, where three-fourths of the jurymen sympathise with the Land -League, and the last fourth join them through fear? The Government is -reduced to having its political opponents judged, for purely political -offences, by people who openly profess the same opinions as the -accused. I will not compare the Irish to our communists of 1871, but -if we had tried the _pétroleuses_ by a jury composed of _pétroleuses_, -we might bet heavily that they would have been acquitted, whilst on -the other hand, if the same jury had been employed to try one of those -rare members of the national guard, who joined the army at Versailles, -he would have been condemned for the smallest peccadillo. As long as -the jury officiates in Ireland, no one will dare to rally round the -Government, and all its enemies are sure of escaping with impunity. The -English Government has shown that it is quite incapable of protecting -property, or even of securing the personal safety of its partisans. -It would be very extraordinary if it had many of them. Of all the -arguments that I have heard brought forward in favour of Home Rule, -this is the one that strikes me as the most forcible. - -I took advantage of a free morning to visit the parish priest of -Kenmare, or, rather, to give him the title and name by which he -is known, the “Venerable Archdeacon O’S----.” A letter from Mr. -Harrington, the secretary of the Land League, served as an introduction -to him; though I do not say that I owe the cordial welcome I received -to it, for a foreigner, particularly a Frenchman, is always sure of -being well received by an Irish Catholic priest; but Mr. Harrington’s -letter was not detrimental to me, for Father O’S---- is president of -the Land League Committee which acts in this barony. This I had heard -without surprise, but I now learnt with some astonishment that the -vice-president is no other than the Anglican minister, Mr. X----. For -the town of Kenmare possesses an Anglican minister. - -When the State Church was suppressed--was “disestablished,” to use the -common phrase--that is to say, when the tithes that supported it were -abolished, it was decided that all acquired purchased positions should -be respected, and that the holders should continue to be paid out of -a special fund created for the purpose, and called the Ecclesiastical -Fund. The Rev. Mr. X----’s case was one of these, and he will continue -to receive during his life the stipend of 370_l._, on the condition of -providing spiritual food for the Protestant population of the barony, -who numbered twenty families at the outside, and who do not even appear -to me animated with any very exclusive faith, for four out of their -number send their children to the Catholic school at the Convent. - -Under these circumstances he is not overworked. He leads the life of -a country gentleman. At the moment when I had the honour of being -introduced to him he appeared much interested in training a very fine -pony, which seemed to give him some trouble; for the groom, very well -turned out, who accompanied him, had got down from the dog-cart to go -to the animal’s head. His manners, however, are charming, and since -he has never attempted to draw any of Father O’S----’s sheep into his -own fold, the two pastors live on very good terms. At last, he avows -opinions that are so favourable to the Land League, that it was felt -the members could not do better than nominate him as vice-president, as -I have already said. - -It is interesting to see a Protestant minister adopting this position. -I am assured that he is not the only one, and, that a fair number of -his colleagues have clearly declared themselves partisans of Home Rule. -It may be remembered that the opponents of this institution have always -laid great stress upon the dangers that the Irish Protestants would -be exposed to were they handed over to a national government, without -adequate means of self-protection. It seems as though this danger were -not very real, if it is true that those most deeply interested show so -little fear of it. In any case it is most creditable to the Catholics -that men representing a party of which they have had so much reason to -complain, display such entire confidence in their toleration and sense -of justice, that they aid by their votes a state of affairs in which -the Catholics would evidently have every facility for revenge. 1 had -already at Rathmines heard Mr. Shackleton point out this thesis. I own -that the sight of a Protestant minister, vice-president of the Land -League, has made me think of it much more seriously than I had done -before. - -Father O’S---- did not tell me much about the O’Leary affair, but he -interested me greatly by explaining clearly to me under what conditions -the Catholic organisation has been working, and what has enabled the -Church in Ireland to retain all her social and political influence, -whilst in every other part of Europe she daily finds more difficulty in -discharging her Apostolic functions. - -When we reflect upon these questions of internal organisation, we -notice, first of all, an important difference that exists between -Catholicism and the majority of other sects. Amongst the latter, the -unity is the parish, and often even the tie that binds the parishes -together is so slight that we may almost call it non-existent. In our -Church, on the contrary, the parish is certainly of great importance; -but yet we may say that in many respects it is rather the diocese -which is the unity in the organisation. This is so true that, whilst -the diocese is constituted everywhere in absolutely the same manner, -we find great diversity in the constitution of the parish. On this -question, very distinct currents of ideas have been produced in the -Church, although as a body, she is still so homogeneous. We can first -define them in the mission countries. Some fraternities, the Jesuits, -for instance, seem almost to cling to the diocese as a unity; they -never appear in a hurry to increase the divisions by forming parishes. -The groups of Christians, confided to the spiritual direction of -the catechists, are frequently visited by priests, who often remain -in the midst of them, but who do not habitually reside there in a -definite way. These are visitors sent by the bishop, to whom they -return after each tour, in order to give an account of their mission, -and to strengthen themselves in the religious life; but these are -not curates in charge. On the contrary, others, foreign missions for -instance, are inspired by quite different principles. As soon as a -Christian congregation is formed, a priest is attached to it, who -makes his residence with it, and, so to speak, does not move again. -A small village in Konangsi, or in Yun-nan, thus finds itself formed -into a parish as effectively as any small French commune. In the first -system the bishop is kept informed of all that passes by the reports -of the priests, who constantly return to him from all points of the -diocese, whilst he travels very little himself. In the second, on the -contrary, he is constantly travelling in order to visit his priests. -This division, it is scarcely necessary to say, has nothing absolutely -settled. The rule admits of numerous exceptions. But when one lives -for any time amongst missionaries, these tendencies are soon noticed. -I may add that the results of the first of these two systems appear -to be superior to those of the second. These divergent views are also -slightly felt amongst the clergy in the different countries of Europe. -Some appear to prefer concentration of effort, others its dispersion. -In France, there is evidently a tendency to parcel out the parishes -as much as possible. Both bishops and people agree on this point. All -seem to wish that each collection of houses, however small it may be, -should become a parish, if it be not already one, and remain a parish -even when the population has diminished. When there is a scarcity -of priests, they prefer suppressing the office of vicar, to uniting -several parishes in one. I know, in one department, that I could name -three villages, containing one to two hundred inhabitants; they are -all three situated on the same road. Between the first and the third -there are not more than three miles distance; all three are parishes, -and to replace one of the priests who was missing, it was necessary to -withdraw the vicar from a large commune of from eighteen hundred to two -thousand souls. - -Some bishops consider that this system could be modified with -advantage. I know this because one of them told me so. The requirements -of too large a flock can exceed the strength of a pastor; whilst if -the flock be too small his abilities are not fully occupied. On the -other hand, there are frequently serious difficulties in launching a -young priest, who has not yet found his vocation, and who has scarcely -left college, into the midst of a population, often indifferent and -frequently hostile, without his finding near to him a guide and -counsellor to direct him. When we see, in some districts, in what -circumstances these young men are placed, we cannot help feeling deep -pity for them, for their lives are passed in an intellectual isolation, -which must be very hard to bear and which is not found to the same -extent in any other career. The prelate to whom I alluded just now -deplored this state of things and told me that, were he able, he would -suppress several of the least important curacies in each district, -provided that he could give two or three curates to those priests, whom -he retained to officiate, for those who would no longer have resident -priests. - -The practical experiment of this system is impossible in France, at -all events for the moment, and for several reasons. First of all -there are pecuniary considerations which are of paramount importance. -The Government not only exacts that the religious service should be -conducted but that the residence should be effective, and if these -conditions are not carried out, the salary is stopped. And then it -is also possible, it is even probable, that, amongst us, this new -organisation would not be accepted by the clergy and people without -some difficulty, for it is quite opposed to all our traditions. - -It is not the same in Ireland. It is precisely this organisation which -seems to have enabled the clergy in my country to acquire and retain -the prodigious influence they now exert over the population. There are -very few parishes. Few have less than three thousand souls; and most -of them have eight or ten thousand. I am speaking, of course, of rural -parishes. The population is widely scattered, much more so than in most -of our provinces. But yet no attempt is made to create new parishes. -This is not for lack of priests. The clergy are recruited with the -greatest facility, the lists are full, and every year priests leave for -the Colonies. But no one seems to think that any increase in the number -of parishes would be desirable. - -In fact, in each of them, the religious offices are discharged by -several young curates, who aid the vicar and who go wherever they are -called, on horseback or in carriages, as a rule, for the distances are -often very great. Very simple buildings, without any architectural -pretensions, have been erected to serve as chapels, in order that no -one should have too far to go to attend the Sunday services. Besides, -the number of masses celebrated is considerable, for the custom of the -priest celebrating two masses on the same day is very general. - -Upon the whole, the priests perform nearly all the parochial work; -catechising, confessions, visiting the sick, &c. &c. The vicars are -bishops on a small scale, who can concentrate their attention almost -exclusively on preaching, on the superintendence of the work and of the -schools, and on the temporal and spiritual administration of the parish. - -In Ireland, as we know, the clergy do not receive any grant from -Government. To be strictly correct, we must, however, mention, that -for some years the administration has subsidised the College of -Maynooth; but its intervention has been entirely limited to this. We -may, therefore, say, that for all requirements, as well as for the -construction and maintenance of the buildings used for worship, the -Church can only rely upon the offerings of the faithful. She never -appears to have had cause to regret this position. Fifty or sixty years -ago there were, we may almost say, no Catholic churches in Ireland, -the oldest and most important had been confiscated by the Protestants; -the others were in ruins; the religious services were celebrated in -buildings that were, in reality, only barns barely fitted up. Now, -there is scarcely, so to speak, a single parish which does not boast of -a superb church. The one at Kenmare is a Gothic edifice of beautiful -design. That at Castle Connell, which I saw the other day, is still -more important; every one tells me that their dimensions and the beauty -of their construction is nothing unusual, that it is nearly the same -everywhere. The Irish who have emigrated have contributed largely to -this result. For several generations they all remain in correspondence -with those branches of the family who have remained in the “ould -country,” as the Canadians call it, and are warmly interested in all -that takes place there; so that when a church is to be reconstructed -in the midst of the cemetery, where their relations are lying, they -display the most admirable generosity. The most remarkable thing -about these offerings--I am now speaking of those provided by the -residents--is not only their importance but their regularity. The -vicars’ and priests’ stipends are supplied by two collections made -every year. As a rule, they scarcely vary at all. The general distress -has not perceptibly diminished them during the last few years, although -they are high. A vicar usually receives 250_l._ to 400_l._; a priest -120_l._ or 160_l._; the fee for a mass is three shillings. - -The moral purity of the Irish people is proverbial. I do not believe -that any nation in the world can be compared to them in this respect. -When inquiries are made on this subject, one hears facts that anywhere -else would appear fabulous, but which, however, are confirmed by the -official documents. There are many baronies containing a population of -ten or twelve thousand souls, where for twenty years there has not been -an illegitimate birth. - -At Dublin, where there is a numerous garrison and a considerable -floating population, the morality is naturally a little lax; but -everywhere else, even in cities containing thirty thousand souls, like -Limerick, we may almost say that prostitution does not exist. Numbers -have been quoted to me that, unfortunately, appear so extraordinary -to a Frenchman, that I was anxious to confirm them by asking for -information on the subject from men of the most divergent professions -and opinions. I have consulted priests, Protestant ministers, -landlords, police officials, regimental doctors--all tell me the -same thing. Let us inquire at home and ask ourselves what a French -population would be living in the same state of misery and crowding. - -It is quite useless to point out the moral purity that characterises -the clergy, when they are recruited from such a population. Even their -most inveterate political enemies, those who would have the most -interest in destroying their political influence, have never ventured -to hint the least insinuation on this subject. - -The devotion of the Irish clergy is not less remarkable than its -morality. At a still recent date, the Irish Church suffered from a -real persecution. At the beginning of this century, a great many -priests sacrificed their lives for their faith, exactly like the Roman -martyrs in the early days of Christianity. During the war against -France, and particularly at the time when an invasion was dreaded, the -English Government formed, in every county in the kingdom, regiments -of irregular cavalry known as the yeomanry. The English yeomanry was -a sort of national guard, who afforded much sport for the wit of -the caricaturists of the day, but who have never harmed anybody. In -Ireland things happened very differently. All Catholics were carefully -eliminated from the yeomanry, and this was quite natural, since they -openly avowed their sympathy with France. But in consequence of this -exclusion, the yeomanry corps were only composed of small landowners -or small English Protestant farmers, who, exasperated by the real or -supposed danger that they imagined they were in, surrounded by an -excited population, became guilty of abominations which make the hair -stand on end as one reads of them. Lord Cloncurry, in his _Personal -Recollections_, p. 39, relates the following anecdote, which gives some -idea of what took place at that time. - -“It happened that the barony of Carbery, in the county of Kildare, was -proclaimed under the Insurrection Act, and a camp established in it, -which was occupied by the Fraser Fencibles. One evening the commanding -officer, a Captain Fraser, returning to camp from Maynooth, where he -had dined and drank freely, passed through a district belonging to -my father, which was very peaceable and had not been included in the -proclamation. As Captain Fraser rode through the village of Cloncurry -attended by an orderly dragoon, just as the summer sun was setting, he -saw an old man, named Christopher Dixon, upon the roadside, engaged -in mending his cart. The Captain challenged him for being out after -sunset in contravention of the terms of the proclamation. Dixon replied -that he was not in a proclaimed district, and that he was engaged in -his lawful business, preparing his cart to take a load to Dublin the -following day. The Captain immediately made him prisoner, and placed -him on horseback behind his orderly. The party proceeded about half a -mile in this manner to a turnpike, where the officer got into a quarrel -with the gatekeeper, and some delay took place, of which Dixon took -advantage to beg of the turnpike man to explain that the district in -which he was taken was not proclaimed, and that, therefore, there was -no just ground for his arrest. While the altercation was proceeding, -the poor old man (he was about eighty years of age) slipped off from -the dragoon’s horse and was proceeding homewards when the officer and -soldier followed him, and having despatched him with sixteen dirk and -sabre wounds, of which nine were declared to be mortal, they rode off -to the camp. A coroner’s inquest was held on the body, and a verdict -of wilful murder returned; whereupon Mr. Thomas Ryan, a magistrate -and the immediate landlord of Dixon under my father, proceeded to the -camp, with a warrant for the apprehension of Captain Fraser, who, -however, was protected by his men, and Mr. Ryan was driven off. Mr. -Ryan applied to my father, who sent me with him to Lord Carhampton, -then commander-in-chief in Ireland. We were accompanied by Colonel -(afterwards General Sir George) Cockburn; and Mr. Ryan having produced -the warrant, and Colonel Cockburn having pointed out the provision of -the Mutiny Act bearing upon the case, we formally demanded the body of -Fraser, which his lordship refused to surrender. At the next assizes -Captain Fraser marched into Athy, with a band playing before him, and -gave himself up for trial. The facts were clearly proved; but the -sitting judge, Mr. Toler[1] (afterwards Lord Norbury), instructed the -jury that ‘Fraser was a gallant officer, who had only made a mistake; -that if Dixon were as good a man as he was represented to be, it was -well for him to be out of this wicked world; but if he were as bad as -many others in the neighbourhood (looking at me, who sat beside him on -the bench), it was well for the country to be quit of him.’ The Captain -and his orderly were acquitted accordingly.” - -This is how simple peasants were treated. As to the priests, they -were outlawed, and a price was put upon their heads. The yeomanry, -therefore, pursued them with unparalleled energy. One of their most -celebrated chiefs publicly said one day: - -“There are two very amusing hunts--fox-hunting and priest-hunting. But -to me the most amusing is priest-hunting.” - -When they were taken they were put to death with a refined cruelty -that would not have discredited Carrier, the butcher of Nantes; for it -should be noticed that if we Catholics have the right to speak of such -deeds in the terms they deserve, it is a right that French republicans -cannot pretend to, although in their newspapers they willingly declaim -on the oppression of Ireland. Carrier, a good republican, invented -the republican marriages and the _noyades de Nantes_. Lord X---- (I -prefer not mentioning his name--it is well known in Paris)--filled -his victim’s hat with pitch; it was then pressed down on the head and -afterwards torn off, bringing with it the skin and the hair. The Sioux -scalp more humanely. - -In some parts of Ireland this state of things lasted ten or twelve -years. During all this time the priests lived like wild beasts, -constantly wandering to evade the informers’ researches, living in the -midst of the bogs, in absolute dens, from which they only crept out -at night to carry religious consolation to the dying, only living on -the alms of the miserable people, who had not always a piece of bread -for themselves. It required strongly-tempered characters to withstand -such a life for a long time. But they found the necessary support in -their faith, for not one of them failed. They might have emigrated, but -would not, preferring to remain in the midst of their people to the -end, and they found their own steadfastness and devotion responded to -by a steadfastness and devotion not less worthy of admiration. They had -neither bishop nor college. Still the empty places that time produced -in the ranks of the clergy were filled up at once; there was never any -lack of priests. Those young men who intended to enter the sacerdocy -went and completed their studies on the Continent, and then returned -after their ordination to fill the place and continue the labours of -those who had disappeared. - -The English often complain that the Irish Catholics display some -passionate feeling in making their claims. But they should remember -that not more than eighty years have passed since these events took -place. It was proposed at Dublin the other day to introduce me to an -old lady, nearly a centenarian, who saw Lord X----’s yeomen apply the -pitch hat to a priest, her uncle, whom they arrested at the bedside of -her dying mother. - -This heroic age has passed. But for the last thirty or forty years -unfortunate Ireland has passed through many tribulations. There have -been epidemics, there have been famines, and under all circumstances -the clergy have behaved admirably. When one sees an Irish priest -amongst his parishioners, one is first struck with the community of -ideas, impressions, and tastes that exists amongst them. With us, a -young peasant who has become a priest is no longer a peasant. His -nature has been so well modified during the ten or twelve years that -he has passed at college, that he has been made into a new being. -Here a young vicar, a parish priest, son of a small farmer, differs -wonderfully little from his former comrades. He is their superior in -instruction, but he has retained all their tastes, all their ideas, -and, I was about to add, some of their faults. I frequently see French -_curés_, agriculturists’ sons, who can scarcely distinguish between a -beetroot and a turnip; they have no further interest in agriculture. -Here a great many of the parish priests have a small farm. The other -day I saw a lease signed by one of them. This morning’s paper announces -that at the Cahirmee Fair, which will soon take place, the first prize -at the show will probably be awarded to a filly reared and entered by a -priest, who has already been successful in this way. - -There should evidently be a line drawn; but I own that these -agricultural priests--although, strictly speaking, a little given to -horse-jobbing--please me greatly. I know that few people will be of -my opinion, but I believe that the priest should be as closely allied -to his people as possible. If he is not, if he isolates himself, if -he has no longer any interests or tastes in common with them, he soon -becomes a stranger, and, however holy he may be, he loses all influence -over them. Customs which shock us when we meet with them in a foreign -land, are often useful, because they entail this closer intercourse. I -remember once making the same reflection at Manilla. In that country -there is a mania for cockfighting. One day, some years ago, I was -walking with the _abbé_ of the frigate. We saw a stout native _curé_ -gravely walking down the street before us, carrying a superb cock under -his arm. In a few minutes he met one of his parishioners, who was also -fondly clasping one of these birds. They began to talk to each other. -By their gestures we divined that they were comparing their cocks, and -that each extolled the merits of his own animal. Then the arguments -became warmer; the two owners placed themselves in position, and made -their cocks fight. The _abbé_ was exasperated at this want of dignity. -Who was right? I really cannot tell. - -In our day all the nations of Europe, one after the other, have passed -through a crisis. This crisis is produced by the social transformation -that results from the new economic conditions of life amongst the -people. But there is no instance of the popular classes disturbing -themselves first. In France the revolution, prepared by a portion -of the nobility, was carried out by the _tiers état_. In Russia the -sovereign power took the initiating step. In Italy and elsewhere it was -the aristocracy first, the middle class next. Nearly everywhere these -innovations render the clergy uneasy, and they stand aside even when -they do not show themselves resolutely hostile to them. Besides, these -changes have caused them to lose the greater part of their political -influence. - -In Ireland the situation is quite exceptional. Neither of the classes -which have led the movement in other countries have been found prepared -to occupy an analogous position in this one. For the last four or five -hundred years there has not been any national aristocracy. The foreign -aristocracy which has replaced it is detested, precisely because it is -not national. Whilst the electors were few in number, and the votes -were openly given, it was able to elect its own members; but since -the ballot has become secret, it so fully realises that its political -influence in the country is ended, that in the majority of counties -it does not even nominate candidates. We may say, strange as this -assertion may appear, that in most of our French provinces, in spite of -the hostility shown by the Government, a great landowner has infinitely -more political influence in his district than an Irish landlord -possesses in his own barony. - -In a very poor country, where agriculture has never been remunerative, -and where industry does not exist, no middle class has been able to -form itself. What we call the _bourgeoisie_ has absolutely no existence -in the country districts; in the towns it is represented by a few -merchants, who are absorbed in their business, with little education, -exercising no influence, and not seeking for any. The clergy has -therefore found itself alone in a position to direct the social and -political movements. Yet, in the last few years, a class of politicians -has become formed, composed of Irish-Americans and journalists, who -have frequently displayed independent ideas. One proof of this was -given at the time of the Fenian Conspiracy, to which the clergy opposed -the most resolute hostility from the commencement, obeying the orders -sent from Rome, and the principles of the Catholic Church, which -condemns secret societies. The politicians were unsuccessful in the -struggle, but it was so indecisive that the clergy thought it prudent -to use their victory with extreme moderation, so that the two parties, -having tested their strength, have always since that made reciprocal -concessions, as we have seen from the time that the Land League was -created. - -Upon the whole, the politicians are gaining ground. This is quite -certain, the best proof being in the fact that they have been able -to impose the Land League upon the clergy. But the latter are still -unquestionably masters of the situation. In order to understand the -political state of the country, it is therefore necessary to have, as -far as possible, an exact idea of what the Irish clergy, so different -from our own, are really like; and this is the reason why I have -enlarged so much on this subject, because I wish to collect in this -chapter not only the impressions that I received during my visit to -Kenmare, but also those that I have gathered from the books I have -consulted, and the conversations I have held during my whole sojourn in -Ireland. - -Now, to form a correct idea of a political body, it is necessary -to know not only what its friends think of it, but also what its -adversaries say of it. As I have already said, the legend of the -vagabond, dissipated priest, so dear to French republicans, does not -exist here. The attacks are directed to other points. The Irish clergy -are first reproached with being very authoritative; and secondly, with -an unreasonable love of money. - -It is very difficult for a foreigner to decide how much importance -should be attached to these accusations. However, I should not be -astonished if there is a certain foundation of truth for them. I have -already mentioned that the morality of the young Irish villagers is -above all praise; but I am told that in the rare circumstance of a -scandal occurring, the parish priest never hesitates to drive the -offending sheep out of his flock, to use “striking” arguments, a -line of conduct which, even to the present day, meets with complete -approval from the population, but which, some day or other, may entail -disastrous consequences. - -These customs, which to us appear so strange, no doubt have their -origin in a very primitive society, very homogeneous, and whose manners -were absolutely patriarchal. But it appears to me quite impossible -that they can be maintained much longer, and it would perhaps be wiser -if the Irish clergy were to take the initiative in a reform which -ultimately will be enforced upon them. - -The second accusation--that of too much love for money--also deserves -some notice. But, first of all, it must be defined. Avarice is not a -national defect in Ireland. When the clergy are accused of greed for -money, it must not be understood that they amass it. No one has ever -heard of priests becoming rich. The money which they receive they -dispense liberally in alms. - -Living, as they do, in the midst of a population whose misery is -extreme, one can understand that they do perhaps seek a little -unreasonably for the means of relieving the distress around them. The -accusation is therefore rather in the form than in the substance, -and to appreciate its value we must recollect that the English treat -money matters with a roughness that often shocks us, but which they -consider quite natural. I believe I have already made this remark in -one of the preceding chapters _à propos_ of the naval officers in -this country, who receive veritable fees from the captains in the -merchant service before they will allow them to make comparisons with -their chronometers. We must therefore take into account, and this in -a great measure, the habits which seem inherent in the race. This -admitted, is it true that the Irish priests shear their parishioners a -little too closely? Some anecdotes which are related on this subject, -particularly in England, but also a little in Ireland, seem to prove -it. These stories have in all cases the merit of being each more droll -than the other, and they tend to demonstrate that the clergy are -more skilful than the Government in their manner of proceeding. Even -whilst admitting that they pluck the fowls, they not only find means -to prevent their crying out, which in itself is a great art, but even -manage to please them: whilst the Government, which, far from plucking, -rather allows itself to be plucked, only succeeds in exasperating them. - -Twice a year in each parish the priest names a Sunday which is -consecrated to the collection of the dues--that is, to the subscription -which provides his stipend. It seems that nothing can be more amusing -than the scenes which take place on those days. It must be admitted -that the parishioners are generous, and the pastor absolutely -disinterested; but, after all, human nature is weak, as every one -knows, and it never quite loses its ascendency; each parishioner is -divided between the desire to eclipse his neighbours and yet to give as -little as possible. The pastor, on his side, is not sorry to speculate -on these conflicting sentiments, and since both of them are Irish--that -is to say, as witty as possible--the tempest that stirs beneath their -skulls, as M. Victor Hugo would say, produces the oddest incidents -possible. - -I was recommended to read a book, which I found charming, and which -I am assured is very true. It is called _Pictures from Ireland_. The -author, Mr. Terence McGrath, is not favourable to the Land League. He -has devoted one chapter of his book to a description of one of these -collections of the dues. I borrow this passage from him:-- - -“After mass a table is brought and placed in front of the altar; Father -Morrissy stands by its side, and as the chief men of the parish pass -before him, he declares aloud the amount deposited by each on the -plate:-- - -“‘Michael Egan--one pound.’ - -“‘Martin Fruen--one pound. Martin Fruen, with one hundred acres of -land, one pound. Just twopence an acre!’ - -“‘William Slattery, ten acres--ten shillings.’ - -“‘Mary Finnegan, a widow with eight children and five acres of -land--six shillings. Verily, I say unto you, that this poor widow has -cast in more than all they that have cast into the plate.’ - -“‘John Sweeney’ (Fruen’s bitterest enemy) ‘seventy acres--three pounds. -I am glad to feel that John Sweeney is more liberal than some of those -who would have no hesitation in robbing the Holy Church of her dues, -and leaving their priest in want.’ - -“An interruption from Martin Fruen, who returns to the altar steps and -says, ‘I beg your pardon, Father Peter, but I forgot to say that I have -an acre of meadow for your reverence.’ - -“‘Thank you, Martin, I thought you must have forgotten’”--and so on. - -I will not swear that the scene is not highly coloured; but it is -very effective, and above all very characteristic of Irish humour. -However, I am more inclined to believe that there may be a foundation -of truth in these reproaches, from a fact that I often remarked in -America. In the far west the only Catholics are Irish or Canadian. The -priests invariably belong to one of these two nationalities. Now, I -often noticed that whilst the Canadian priests are always much liked -by their parishioners, by Canadians, as well as by Irish, the Irish -priests, on the contrary, are constantly in difficulties with the -Canadians, who accuse them of being too exacting. But, after all, this -is of little consequence in Ireland, since the persons most interested, -who are certainly the parishioners, declare they are quite satisfied -with their clergy. Besides, the latter have already given so many -proofs of their political talents, that we may be quite certain that -they would know how to modify their requirements, should the necessity -arise, and how to preserve intact the admirable spirit of union, -and the community of aspirations, which bind them so closely to the -population, and which gives them so much strength. - -I happened to meet, to-day, with an opportunity of ascertaining the -confidence which the clergy inspire and how much the Irish people are -used to seeing in the person of their priests the natural interpreters -of their claims. - -The good town of Kenmare, although usually very quiet, is extremely -excited at the present time. But any one would be the same, at least, -for the inhabitants have just learned that they will probably be -obliged this year to pay their taxes twice over, and, since they -already find these taxes very heavy when they only pay them once, their -state of exasperation can readily be imagined. The position is very -curious, but, in order to make it fully understood, I must say a few -words about the political and administrative state of Ireland. This -organisation is infinitely less complicated than our own; but still -that does not insure that it is better. The county and the barony -correspond pretty nearly to our department and district, but the -_arrondissement_ does not exist; and we may say that the administrative -division is not carried further than the barony. The baronies include a -certain number of parishes. But the parish has no definite existence. A -large borough like Kenmare has neither a municipal nor a local budget. -The great cities only are provided with a “corporation,” to use the -correct word. In one of our departments the public funds are managed -by three different assemblies: the general council, the councils of -the _arrondissement_, and, lastly, the municipal councils. In Ireland -these are all replaced by one single assembly, the grand jury, and this -assembly is not even elective. The sheriff chooses the members from a -list of important persons. The law only exacts that each barony should -be represented. - -However this curiously formed assembly possesses very extensive power. -In fact, it fills in the county almost as many posts as Molière assigns -to Maitre Jacques in Harpagon’s house. The grand jury discharges at -the same time all the judicial or administrative functions. First, it -serves the county law court, and decides whether the accused should be -sent to the assizes; it taxes the county and orders the execution of -public works. It also, with the sheriff’s assistance, nominates all the -functionaries, for the only representatives of the state in each county -are the lord-lieutenant, whose duties are purely honorary, the sheriff, -the deputy-lieutenants, and the magistrates, which are divided into two -classes, although they are all nominated by the Lord Chancellor. Some -are simply landowners, invested with a commission as justices of the -peace, who perform their duties gratuitously: the others, _stipendiary -magistrates_, are paid, and are obliged to reside on the spot. - -Now that the reader is sufficiently enlightened upon the general -principles that rule the administrative organisation of Green Erin, -I will pass on to those particular events which have excited the -inhabitants of the barony of Kilgawan. About eighteen months ago, the -office of tax collector was vacant. In ordinary times there is no lack -of candidates. This official has a right to a commission of 5 per -cent. upon all the money he collects; so that if the taxes amount to -2,000_l._, this produces a sum of about 100_l._, which annually falls -into the lucky official’s pocket, who, besides, usually adds these -functions to the duties of some small business; but the post is much -less in request lately, for the tax-payers have adopted the lamentable -habit of responding to their summons by gun-shots. However, at last -they found an amateur candidate. He was still a young man, alert, -vigorous, and the best shot in the county, after Mr. Trench _bien -entendu_. Besides, he could furnish the two securities exacted by the -law. He therefore appeared to unite all the requisite qualifications; -and he had not long to wait for his nomination. - -He commenced his duties about a year ago, and for some time everything -went well. The taxes were admirably paid in, considering the hardness -of times, and every one agreed that in him the barony had found a model -official. The surprise was therefore great when it was discovered some -days ago that he had disappeared, as all cashiers do disappear, _i.e._ -with their cash boxes. By a singular coincidence his securities, two -tradesmen in the place, had suspended their payments at a few days’ -interval. For a short time after this event, public opinion hesitated. -Some were delighted and praised the patriot, who, sooner than pay into -the oppressor’s Government the funds that would be used to pay its -hired assassins, had simply appropriated them for his own necessities; -but the more politic shook their heads and pointed out that if part of -the funds were destined for the Government, the rest was intended for -local expenses, whilst they asked themselves how all the wheels of the -barony could work during the coming year. - -_Helas!_ The patriotic misgivings of these sages were only too well -founded. Mr. Trench has consulted a lawyer. The answer arrived this -morning. It is terrible. The collector is an official of the barony, -but the barony undertakes to collect the Government taxes through him, -at the same time as its own. Thus, on the one hand, since the money had -not been paid into the Government, the barony was still responsible; -and, on the other, a number of necessary expenses had been incurred -and they must meet their engagements. Now the 2,000_l._ received, -only representing the exact amount of these two deficits, it became -necessary to raise another two sums of 1,000_l._ each, _i.e._ the taxes -must be paid again. The argument is as clear as water from the rock, -but it is not pleasant. - -Now the grand jury are to meet to-morrow at Tralee, and this is why -it was resolved to convene an indignation meeting in order that Mr. -Trench, when discharging his duties on the grand jury, might convey to -his colleagues the expression of the but too well justified complaints -of the unfortunate inhabitants of Kenmare. - -Mr. C---- and I started a few minutes after breakfast for the Town -Hall, where the meeting was to take place. The hall, which is generally -used for musical evenings and charitable associations, is of good -size. However, when we arrived it was already crowded, but when we -were recognised, those present made room for us so pleasantly that we -ended by reaching the platform, where Mr. Trench and Father O’S---- -were conversing with great animation. The types present offered a most -interesting study. The peasants and farmers were crowded together at -the back of the hall: the benches nearest the platform being filled by -the inhabitants of Kenmare, small merchants and workmen. I noticed one -man near to me, already aged, thin, very brown skin, white, closely -cropped hair, an eager, very expressive face, the head of a Spanish -priest. Mr. C---- told me that he was a poor workman, who had been -some years ago one of the most active and energetic Fenian agents in -the country. He has only lately left prison. Opposite to me a small -crowd is pressed round a short man leaning against the wall. He has -a collar of thick white beard, which frames a pale face, ornamented -with a red nose, to which he applies snuff in a dignified way in those -rare moments when he is not speaking. Under his frock-coat he wears a -long brown waistcoat, and he keeps his left hand in one of its pockets -whilst he gesticulates with the right, talking all the time in a loud -voice. He is a tailor. He speaks at every meeting, is one of the most -active members of the Land League, and enjoys great influence. In the -first ranks of his audience are a dozen worthy citizens with fat, -sheepish faces, who appear to drink in his words, and who undertake to -repeat them, with their own comments, to the crowd that presses behind -them endeavouring to catch his words. As I looked at first one and then -the other, the liberated Fenian and the little tailor, I could not help -thinking of the fable of “Bertrand et Raton.” I fancied that the little -tailor would never go to prison, though he would probably be the means -of others going there; sure to eat the chestnuts if others could find -the means of taking them from the fire. - -But the compressibility of the body has a limit. It soon became evident -that the hall would not hold another person. Mr. Trench began to speak. - -“Gentlemen,” said he, “before opening the proceedings, I think it would -be advisable to elect a president.” - -A great silence followed. - -The little tailor longed to speak, for he rubbed his beard in a -feverish way; but suddenly a voice was heard in the crowd-- - -“Suppose we nominate the French gentleman over there as president.” - -Naturally, I made a forcible gesture of dissent. The hall echoed with -a peal of laughter. The nervous tension relaxed a little. Mr. Trench -seized upon the opportunity. - -“Gentlemen,” said he, “it appears to me that we could not do better -than invite the Venerable Archdeacon Father O’S---- to be kind enough -to preside over us.” - -Applause broke out from all sides. The arrangement had been so -well provided for, that the Archdeacon was already seated near the -presidential chair. He thanked the assembly in two words, seated -himself comfortably, and leant back folding his two hands in the air, -and resting his elbows on the arms of the chair. - -“Well, Mr. Trench,” said he, “we are listening to you!” - -How well Mr. Trench knew with whom he had to deal! With the first words -he managed to win the sympathy of his audience. - -“Gentlemen,” said he, “you know that the grand jury is a body selected, -not elected.” - -“Hear, hear!” cried the little tailor, gesticulating like a devil in -holy water. “It is not elected; it is another of those tyrannical -institutions which crush poor Ireland.” (Prolonged murmurs.) - -“I agree with you, that it is a great misfortune. I believe that it -would be better, in every respect, if the representative of the barony -could be chosen by you. But since that is impossible, I cannot do -better than come and consult you, in order to learn your opinion of the -serious business that now preoccupies us all, whilst promising to act -according to your instructions.” - -He then rehearsed the situation; but when he explained to them that -in all probability the taxpayers would have to replace the 2,000_l._ -carried off by the collector, the tumult became so formidable that the -Archdeacon rose and began to speak. - -This was, perhaps, scarcely correct for the president, but no one -appeared to mind it. But then no one here seems to trouble himself -particularly about the formalities that are so cherished at Bridoison. -Father O’S---- stood upright, his two hands plunged into the pockets -of his cassock, his hat still upon his head. Our unfortunate French -priests are so accustomed to see their most elementary rights of -citizenship contested, that, once outside their church, they always -look embarrassed and awkward. They never speak without a thousand -hesitations, carefully weighing every word. They conceal their thoughts -as much as possible; insinuations are the utmost they ever venture -upon. What a contrast from the attitude of this priest; what authority -he evidently derives from the conviction that he speaks in the name of -the whole people. He does not spare his words. - -“Mr. Trench,” said he, “every one present renders justice to the -feeling which prompted the step that you have just taken. We all -thank you for it. You have described the situation very well. We are -ruled by an assembly, the members of which are chosen by those who -are masters of Ireland, but who are not elected by us. This assembly -settles our taxes as it likes; appoints the agents charged with the -collection of these taxes, and because the agent that it sent to us -without consulting us on the subject, but armed with all its authority, -is a thief, we are now told that our receipts are of no value; that -the unfortunate inhabitants of this poverty-stricken barony will be -forced to pay a second time. It is a disgraceful thing! We Irish are -accustomed to submit to many shameful things, but I declare I never -heard anything quoted that is more shameful than this!” - -But here he was forced to pause. Whilst he was speaking one could hear -the exclamations of the audience gradually increasing. At his last -words the noise suddenly became indescribable. The Fenian near me could -not control himself. He roared. - -The little tailor was so excited that he gesticulated like a madman. At -the back of the hall the farmers tapped with their shillalahs on the -floor, from which issued clouds of dust. - -The priest had only to raise his hand in the air; all stopped as by -enchantment. He resumed, with the same calm manner:-- - -“Well, Mr. Trench, to-morrow the grand jury, of which you are a -member, is to assemble. You propose to act as our interpreter to your -colleagues. For the second time we thank you for this proposition, and -we know that you will carry out your promise to us. Tell the grand -jury----” - -“Wait!” said Mr. Trench. “I will write down your resolutions.” - -“Certainly! Tell the grand jury that the inhabitants of this barony -protest with all their power against the odious injustice, which they -think of imposing upon us, and which, by every legal means----” - -“Not at all! I protest! I object to the word legal being used! I demand -that we should put, by every means!”---- - -It was the little tailor shouting at the top of his voice. And then as -every one looked at him, he proudly drew himself up and majestically -applied a great pinch of snuff to his nose. - -His interruption made a great sensation. The shillalahs recommenced -to move at the back of the hall. The Fenian at my side uttered from -the depths of his chest, a hurrah, which made me jump into the air; -his eyes started from his head. Evidently, at this moment, he would -give his chance of Paradise to be able to shoot an English policeman; -the citizens who surrounded the tailor seemed slightly embarrassed; -they evidently considered that things were going too far. Only the -Archdeacon retained his imperturbable air. - -“Let us see, Mr. X----, you apparently advise us to take guns and -blunderbusses and to attack the police?” said he. - -The little tailor only answered by a gesture of the arms and head, -which said clearly: “If everybody were like me, things would not end -like that,” but which at the same time, had the great advantage of -giving no handle for pursuit, if things turned out badly. But Father -O’S---- soon re-established quiet; the resolution that he proposed was -applauded and the meeting soon broke up without further incident. - -I have, perhaps, dwelt too long upon the details of this meeting; but -they appear to me very curious in many respects. In thinking over what -I have seen and heard, I find food for much reflection. - -It is the fashion in France to complain bitterly of centralisation, and -of the great administration which results from it. M. de Tocqueville, -in particular, expatiates everywhere on the beauties of the English -system, which completely differs from our own. Amongst us, the -Government appoints the officials charged with the collection of the -taxes, and lends them to the Communes, or the Department, for the -collection of the local rates. Here, on the contrary, the collectors -are the agents of the local authorities and are lent to the Government -by them. I acknowledge that this system has the advantage of leaving -to the local power the greater part of the authority, which they have -taken from the state; but this satisfaction appears to me a little -platonic. Under the French system if my collector absconds with the -cash box, admitting even, though this is almost impossible, that his -security were insufficient to meet the deficit, this deficit being -divided between thirty-eight millions of taxpayers, I should suffer in -an infinitesimal proportion from this theft; whilst, under the same -circumstances, the poor people of Kenmare are forced to pay twice over, -and they must pay, because in consequence of the decentralisation, they -cannot employ a state official amongst them, and, therefore, as their -agent is completely independent of the collective populace, there is no -reason why the neighbours should suffer through his theft. - -There is a school of men that is always lost in admiration of all -foreign institutions, and that has the greatest contempt for all that -passes at home. Is this a right sentiment? We know our own institutions -through experience, but others only in theory. It therefore happens -that, whilst we see quite easily the defective side of our own, we are -I believe much too inclined to exaggerate the merits of neighbours. The -English inhabit an old house. The arrangements, which were excellent -in former times, are now frequently found very inconvenient. They make -a few reforms, but those are done with the utmost prudence, because -when workmen are placed in an old building there is always danger of -the walls giving way. They know that if they decide to pull down the -old house and build a new one they must spend a good deal, and also -sleep outside for some time. In order to avoid this inconvenience, they -prefer remaining where they are, as long as it will hold together. I -think their argument is just, but they are not as well lodged as they -might be. - -We are not in the same position; our old house has fallen, we have had -all the annoyance and expense of a removal: we had to sleep outside -for a long time. Now, the great work of the new one is finished, the -roof is in its place; the ensign is still missing and also many small -interior fittings, but still, such as it is, we can certainly say, that -the service is better done there than in most other establishments. - -But to continue the comparison, it is but too evident that great -reforms are needed in this country. For instance, this institution of -a grand jury, almost omnipotent and absolutely irresponsible, is made -to exasperate the people. It is not even a feudal institution, for the -feudal law provided that “none could be judged save by his peers.” It -is the application, pure and simple, of the rights of conquest. If the -Land Leaguers confined themselves to demanding the abolition of such -abuses, they would be so manifestly right that every reasonable man -would sympathise with them, and the English would be forced to yield -at once. Instead of doing this, they claim a number of things that -cannot possibly be granted, which would manifestly be either useless -or injurious to them if they obtained them, and no one really can -tell whether they would reform existing abuses or whether they would -not rather content themselves with using them against their political -adversaries. Thus the other day the Lord Mayor of Dublin told me that -Ireland suffered from too much centralisation. If such cases as that -which formed the subject of the meeting at which I was present are of -frequent occurrence, it seems to me that it is rather an excess of -decentralisation from which she is suffering. - -And besides, was it necessary to complicate by a political crisis, the -agricultural and economic crisis, which is already so hard to bear in -this country? And this political crisis, a little goodwill on all sides -would suffice to check, at least in a great measure. I only require the -facts that I see here as a proof of what I say. In every country in the -world, where such an accident happened, the population would be much -excited by it. Every one would feel it. Such an incident is a God-send -for an opposition politician. It would not require many like the little -tailor, or the old Fenian, to put a light to the powder. Luckily, the -two conflicting parties are each headed by thoroughly honest men, -benevolent and moderate. Mr. Trench came and said: “I agree with you, -the grand jury is not what it ought to be; it is true that you are -not represented in it. I cannot change the existing laws, but since I -form part of the grand jury, allow me to act as though I were really -your representative.” Father O’S---- took him at his word, and that -sufficed to make the meeting pass off quietly. I therefore cannot help -thinking that if really willing men were more common, peace would be -less disturbed, and this is why I believe that the clergy have rendered -a great service to Ireland by placing themselves at the head of the -Land League. A few of its members are certainly hot-headed men, who do -not use their influence in the right way; but a great many others act -like Father O’S----; and, whilst tolerating what they cannot help, they -act as mediators, and very efficacious mediators, in a movement which, -if they were not there, would in each village be led by men like the -little tailor. - -This evening, Mr. Trench invited me to dine with the inspector of -police for the district of Kilgawan. This young man, who discharges -all the duties of a lieutenant of _gendarmerie_ amongst us, has about -thirty constables (Irish constabulary force) under his orders. This -corps seems copied from the French _gendarmerie_. They are superb -men, admirably disciplined, who render the greatest services. They -are, however, abominated by the populace, although they are all Irish -officers and men. But, at the same time, this does not prevent there -being ten candidates for one vacancy. One of the reasons for this -is that the pay is exceedingly high. This young man, who is dining -with us, gets about 240_l._ per annum; more than a major receives in -France. He is twenty-six years old. A simple constable has from 80_l._ -to 100_l._; there are 12,000 of them; 7,000 Catholics, and 5,000 -Protestants. The maintenance of this corps is a heavy item in Irish -finance. - -A Government should always give its servants a rate of pay which is in -accordance with the scale of salaries in the country. If it fixes too -low a sum, it can only obtain very inferior men; if it pays them too -much, there are ten candidates for one vacancy, and, since it can only -give one appointment, it creates nine irreconcilable enemies in the -persons of those it was forced to disappoint. The English Government, -however, like every other, is influenced by this principle; only its -pay is regulated by the scale of English salaries, and these salaries -are very high. It can scarcely have a special scale for Ireland. An -English constable who gains four or five shillings a day is not too -well paid, because his brother or his father, who are workmen, earn -about the same amount. But because an English constable receives -five shillings, it is necessary to give five shillings to an Irish -constable, although he is living in a country where the workmen never -earn more than one shilling per day. Now, since it is precisely upon -these Irish workpeople, who earn so little, that the taxes producing -the soldiers’ high pay weigh so heavily, they feel exasperated. The -same events take place under all administrations. This is another of -the Land League grievances, and one of its best arguments in favour of -Home Rule, for they point out that if Ireland were completely separated -from England, the pay could be reduced in proportion to the general -distress, and this can never be done whilst the union lasts. - -The inspector of police spoke to me about the state of the country, -with which he is naturally better acquainted than any one else. The -neighbourhood of Kenmare is relatively quiet. However, he knows that -the tribunal of the Land League works regularly, and meets every -Sunday: everybody obeys its decisions. - -To-day, a constable seized eight or ten summonses issued in the name of -this tribunal. This is an exact reproduction of one of them:-- - - - “KILGAWAN BRANCH, I. N. LEAGUE. - - _June 24, 1886._ - - MR. THOMAS MURRAY, BALLINACARRIGA. - - DEAR SIR, - - Your presence is requested in the league 2 p.m. On the 27th inst. - On behalf of the committee, - - JOHN GODFREY, _Sec._” - - -He believes that he shall be forced to give James O’Leary two men as -a protection, who will not leave him day or night. There are already -several persons in the county in the same position. And it is only -because the expense is so very heavy, nearly 200_l._ a year, that there -are not more. However, the Government defrays this expense by levying a -special tax from all the inhabitants of the district. - -But, I repeat that the situation of this part of the county is -exceptionally good. There is another barony in the neighbourhood where -the situation is far worse. This property belongs to the Honourable -Roland Wynne. Already two of his agents have been killed, and he is now -vainly endeavouring to find a third. The last tax-collector having had -a ball pass through his leg whilst discharging his duty, hastened to -send in his resignation, and it is impossible to replace him. - -This estate has not paid one penny either to the landlord or to the -state for the last three years. In fact, then, the farmers have become -the owners.[2] In all that concerns them, the programme of the Land -League has been fully carried out, and it has been realised in the most -economical fashion, since, to obtain this result, the people have only -had to spend the sum necessary for the acquisition of a gun and three -charges of powder. I may add that the inhabitants of this lucky barony -can only lose by a change of government, since, however economical the -new one may be, it will always be necessary to pay some taxes, whilst -now they do not pay anything to anybody. It is therefore a golden age -which reigns for the time in this corner of Ireland. I ask whether the -fate of this population seems capable of amelioration? - -I am answered that, the land being very bad, the distress is terrible; -the people are literally dying of hunger, and that emigration is the -sole resource of the population! But then, in that case, the crisis has -not arisen from the land laws, and they cannot cure it by making the -peasants landowners. I had always doubted it, but I am well pleased to -have my opinion so convincingly proved. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Mr. Toler was at the time (as well as my memory serves me) -Solicitor-General, but sitting as Judge of Assize. - -[2] Since my visit to Ireland, this estate has been seized by -creditors, who have driven out all the farmers. The most lamentable -scenes took place, and have been much discussed in the newspapers. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - DEPARTURE FROM KENMARE--A BAILIFF UNDER PROTECTION--HOW - PLAIN DAUGHTERS CAN BE ADVANTAGEOUSLY DISPOSED OF--BLARNEY - CASTLE--TRALEE--BARON DOWSE’S SPEECH--AN IRISH MARKET--THE GRAND - JURY AND ITS PRESIDENT--MEDITATIONS. - - -_July 9th._--To-day the grand jury opens at Tralee, the capital of -county Kerry. In his double office of magistrate and grand juryman, my -host, Mr. Trench, is obliged to attend this ceremony. Besides, this -year his presence is doubly necessary, because he must plead the cause -of the taxpayers in the barony,[3] according to the promise given -yesterday. He kindly suggested that I should accompany him, an offer -which I hastened to accept, for I am very curious to see how this -strange institution works. - -In consequence of these arrangements, the faithful Dick brought his -carriage to the door about eight o’clock this morning, just as we -finished breakfast. Experienced travellers assert that if one would -have a correct idea of a country, one should see it at the season -which most characterises it. Thus one should see Russia in the month -of January, when it is covered with snow, and Naples in the month -of August. A cold country is only curious when it is cold; a moujik -sweating violently being as little interesting as a _lazzarone_ -shivering in a corner by the fire. - -This being so, one must arrange to see Ireland under heavy rain, for it -is only necessary to consult the meteorological charts to be convinced -that more rain falls in Green Erin than in any other country in Europe. -But this is not my fate, at least not at present. It appears that -I have unusual luck. Since I have been in Kerry, particularly, the -weather has been splendid. This morning a brilliant sunshine illumined -the lawns and old oaks of Lansdowne Lodge, when I turned round to -give them a last glance, as the carriage passed through the gate. -During breakfast, Mr. Trench and I had commenced a serious theological -discussion. It had no visible result, as far as our conversion is -concerned, for we still remain, he a Plymouth brother, and I an -Apostolic Roman Catholic; but it continued with increasing animation -during the whole journey from Kenmare to Killarney, and by this time we -had reached such transcendental heights, we had “talked and retalked” -with so much animation, that, absorbed in seeking my arguments, I had -allowed myself to forget my duties as a conscientious tourist, and had -scarcely paid any attention to the country we were passing through. I -am, however, almost sure that the road we followed was the same as that -we had arrived by the day before yesterday. I can therefore affirm, -with a quiet conscience, that Derrygariff is always in the same place, -that we have again followed the valley of Coom-a-Dhuv; that we skirted -the lakes of Cummeen and Thommeen and I distinctly recollect that some -one called me to admire the cascade of Derrycunihy, explaining to -me that the mountain from which it issues is no other than majestic -Garranthuohill! (I am anxious to give the exact facts, for _à propos_ -of my first articles an influential critic reproached me in his paper -the other day because I did not give sufficient details.) - -We found great animation reigning at the Killarney railway station -when we arrived there. Mr. Trench met there, first of all, a number -of his colleagues, who, like himself, were going to Tralee, and who, -as a rule, profited by the opportunity to take their families for a -little excursion. Whilst he was speaking to them I went to a corner of -the station from whence nasal exclamations had reached me, riveting -my attention. They proceeded from a group of American tourists of -both sexes, who were contemplating with much interest a fat Irishman, -dressed like a farmer, who passed to and fro, attended on each side -by an enormous constable, as stiff as though he were made of wood, -his little black jacket fitting his figure without a wrinkle, his -policeman’s cap inclined 45° over one ear, his stock mounting to his -teeth, a small staff in his hand, and a revolver at his side. - -This unusual spectacle interested me greatly. Could this stout man be a -victim of perfidious Albion, who was about to expiate his patriotism by -rotting on the mouldering straw of a dungeon? Is he a common criminal? -These two hypotheses are manifestly inadmissible. The stout man has -not the air of a prisoner; far from wearing handcuffs, he grasps an -enormous shillalah, and his two guards, instead of leading him, appear -to regulate their movements by his: in any case they allow him to -communicate freely with the Americans, who all, one after the other, -advance and ask him to inscribe his name in their albums. Trench is -too far off to explain this enigma. Luckily, I noticed close to me a -native, well dressed and benevolent-looking, whom the stout man had -greeted as he passed. I spoke to him, for he looked very polite--but -that all Irishmen are, at least as long as they remain in Ireland. -From the time they arrive in America, they too often become as rough -as barley bread. “Certainly, sir,” replied the obliging native, “I can -tell you. I know that man very well. His name is Denis McGrath, and he -lives near to me. He is bailiff to one of my neighbours.” - -“Well, sir, what has happened to him? Why is he followed by those two -constables? Is he a prisoner?” - -“Oh, no! Quite the contrary. For the last two years he has been -protected by the police.” - -“But why do the police protect him?” - -“Ah! That is because he was mixed up in an eviction case that ended -badly. The Land Leaguers in our barony have condemned him to death. -He has been shot at already three times during the night through his -window. He was not hurt; the balls went into his mattress. But since he -has every reason to believe they intend trying again, the police have -given him two men to protect him. The parish defrays the expenses.” - -“Sir, you interest me greatly! Do these constables live with him?” - -“Certainly. Since they never leave him, day or night!” - -“That must be a great inconvenience in a small household.” - -“Ah! you see the administration does all in its power to render the -existence of those whom it protects as agreeable as possible. Before -choosing the men for this office, the officials first make thorough -inquiries respecting the people with whom they have to deal; and they -try to send them constables whose similarity of tastes can make their -society pleasant to them. Thus, for instance, they are careful not to -send a Protestant constable to a Catholic household. McGrath certainly -has nothing to complain of. He has five daughters, all freckled, and -very plain. He would assuredly have had a great deal of trouble in -marrying them. They sent him two bachelor constables, both very fine -men. You see them there. Naturally, living amongst the five daughters, -they inevitably commenced a courtship. They have married two of them!” - -“Then are they now all living together?” - -“Yes; but things no longer go smoothly.” - -“Ah, the deuce! What has happened then?” - -“Listen. The three younger daughters are very anxious to marry too. -That’s very natural. They therefore try to persuade their father to -complain of their brothers-in-law, in order that they may be replaced -by two other unmarried constables. Only the two married sisters will -not hear of such a proceeding, because, they say, that it would cause -bad marks to be placed against their husbands, which would hinder their -promotion; and, besides, they might also be sent to protect other -families where they could not follow them. There are, therefore, such -terrible scenes in the house that McGrath passes his life outside. -He has become a real support to the public-house: only, since his -sons-in-law follow him everywhere, their wives are furious because -they fear their husbands will contract bad habits. They blame their -father, who finds himself between the anvil and the hammer. Ah! he -hasn’t a pleasant life of it. So now he is going to Tralee I shall not -be surprised to find that he has decided to yield to the three younger -ones. He is probably going to ask for two new constables!” - -Not far from here, at Blarney, near Cork, there stands a strong old -castle, dating from the fifteenth century. It was built by Cormac -M’Carthy, a celebrated personage in the history of the county. Very -important ruins still remain of it. Above the principal dungeon is -seen a carved stone, to which a very ancient legend attributes magic -power.[4] Every one who kisses it devoutly immediately receives the -gift of a special eloquence known by the name of _blarney_, which -ensures for them the most varied successes. Only this advantage is -counterbalanced by one defect--they all become horribly untruthful. -Unfortunately this pilgrimage is extremely run after. During the summer -the railway companies organise special trains that bring excursionists -from every corner of Ireland. - -The amiable native who so kindly enlightened me upon the incidents of -the domestic drama now being enacted by the McGrath family, can he be -one of those called in this country Blarney pilgrims--the same thing -that at home we call vulgar _fumiste_? Even whilst I effusively thank -him for his extreme kindness, I ask myself this question. Another idea -has also crossed my mind. I distinctly saw in the station the manager -of the Killarney hotel, who only yesterday I advised to organise some -evictions as an attraction for tourists. He seemed to appreciate the -notion; and now he is explaining McGrath’s case to the Americans. This -interesting bailiff, his five daughters and two sons-in-law, can they -be only supernumeraries? After all, this is quite possible. - -But these reflections were rudely interrupted. The train was -starting, and I was forced to run in order to catch Mr. Trench in his -compartment. He introduced me to one of his colleagues, who, with his -son and daughter, were, like ourselves, going to Tralee. _À propos_, -some people have a fancy for knowing the exact pronunciation of foreign -words; here are a few directions for their use:-- - -If you wish to pronounce Tralee in the Irish fashion, you must first -commence by uttering a hoarse sound drawn from the bottom of your -throat, the lower the better. Gradually swell this sound, imitating a -dog growling before he bites. In this way you will modulate something -that can be written thus: Trrreull! And then, when your breath is -nearly gone, suddenly jerk out the last syllable _lee_, which you must -of course pronounce _ly_. It is fairly difficult, but if you practise -it for a little while, scrupulously following my instructions, I am -convinced that you will attain such a pure pronunciation that you -will astonish every inhabitant of Kerry who hears you. But, I repeat, -I only mention this for those who think they must pronounce foreign -words in foreign fashion. Personally, I am not of their opinion, and -an illustrious Academician who honours me with his friendship, assures -me that I am right; and this is the reason why, in Paris, I always say -“_Rue Va-sin-je-ton_,” and not “_Rue Washington_.” - -Having said this in the interest of the ultra-refined in linguistic -details, I resume my narrative. - -The grand juryman with whom we are travelling is a descendant of -O’Connell the great agitator, as he is called. I rather suspect him of -privately thinking that his illustrious ancestor succeeded in agitating -Ireland only too well; for, from what he and his son tell me of the -state of the country, it is certain that no one has any reason to -complain of excessive tranquillity. We happened to pass through their -properties. The father was installed by one door, the son by the other. -Every moment these gentlemen very pleasantly directed my attention -towards the ruins of some house that had been destroyed by dynamite, -the remnants of a haystack that had been burnt, a meadow where all the -cows’ tails had been cut off, or a tree beneath which a bailiff had -been found with a ball through his head. As landlords, and boycotted -landlords, they assuredly cannot approve of these acts; but, as -Irishmen, they enumerate all these facts with a certain complacency. -National pride is always worthy of our respect. I remember an American -who described to me the collision between two trains; he spoke of -carriages precipitated into the Mississippi, of two or three hundred -persons drowned, and then he ended by saying, with a patronising air: -“Nothing equal in Europe, I guess, stranger!” - -We reached Tralee about one o’clock. I was first taken to a club, where -we found most of the grand jurymen preparing for the discharge of their -duties by taking an excellent luncheon. Even whilst following their -example I was introduced to five or six of these gentlemen, who, like -Mr. Trench, are “agents.” - -The information which they gave me confirms all that I have already -heard about the state of this county. The rents continue to diminish. -One of them quotes figures to me. The income of the property which he -superintends amounted to more than 8,000_l._; its remittances equalled -4,000_l._, taking good and bad years together. This year it will not -receive more than 600_l._ Besides this, the people recently placed a -charge of dynamite under his windows. The explosion was so violent -that the whole front fell down. Sixteen persons were in the house; no -one was hurt, but it was a miraculous escape. I asked him if, on his -soul and conscience, he really believed that the heads of the Land -League are responsible for deeds of this kind. He replied that he was -absolutely sure of it, and that if the country were not terrorised he -could arrest the perpetrators; if he has not done so, it is simply -because he knows that no witness dare appear against them. He is giving -up the struggle. He intends retiring from business at the end of the -year, and his son intends using the family capital in starting a ranche -in Colorado. - -The Land Leaguers are very indignant when any one predicts that their -success will be the signal for the general emigration of capital. Yet -here is an instance which seems to prove that this prediction has some -foundation. And frankly, is it possible to blame those who adopt this -course? I own that I am only astonished at one thing, and that is that -it does not happen more often. Leading such an existence as this is not -life. - -In order to realise the point which affairs have reached in Kerry, it -is enough to read the speech pronounced by Baron Dowse, President of -the Assizes, at the opening of the session. - -“Scarcely four months,” said he, “have elapsed since the last session, -and now I am again summoned to preside over you. After a careful -examination of the situation in County Kerry, in respect to the -criminal law, I am forced to tell you that it is worse than ever. In -four months 119 criminal cases have been inscribed on the list, and -their details are very significant:-- - - - Murders 2 - Despatch of letters threatening murder 19 - Attempts at murder with fire-arms 9 - Manslaughter 1 - Outrage 1 - Blows and wounds 11 - Assaults upon agents 1 - Armed attack upon houses 1 - Robbery 20 - Arson 19 - Killing or mutilating domestic animals 12 - Thefts of arms or extortion of money 26 - Shots fired into inhabited houses 10 - Etc., etc. - - -“You see, gentlemen, that nearly all these crimes are of the same -character; they are agrarian. In counting up all the events coming -under the same category that have taken place in this county during one -year, we find a total of more than 500. Whatever political or religious -opinions one may hold, it is impossible not to consider the situation -lamentable. In former times the moral state of this county was very -different. Criminal cases were rather less here than elsewhere. Now -there is not a single county in Ireland that can be compared to it. -County Clare has certainly a very bad reputation, but yet it has not -fallen so low as this.” - -When I read these edifying figures, I sincerely congratulated myself -upon not being a landowner in County Kerry, and I thought that if I -had the ill luck to possess any land there I should have real pleasure -in selling it, as soon as possible, for any price it would fetch, and -in getting away. I can quite sympathise with landowners who never go -near their estates, and I cannot see how the Nationalists can reproach -them. Still, possibly whilst creating this state of affairs, the -latter may have some mental reservations. No doubt they think that by -rendering life intolerable to the landowners, they will depreciate the -price of land so much that they will be able to share it gratuitously -amongst themselves. Perhaps they will attain this result. But as I -have already said several times, what advantage will they find in -that? At the commencement of the Revolution the French peasants made -the same calculation; they pillaged the castles, massacred the owners -when they could, and divided the estates of those who had succeeded in -emigrating, to punish them for getting away. The operation has been -fairly profitable for many of them. That is because at that time, -and particularly a little later, the land, through the difficulty of -transport, had a real value. But now the situation is quite altered; -in every country in the world the land tends to have only the value -which the capital employed in its cultivation may give it. What is the -use of pasturage, if, on one hand, there are no more farmers, and if, -on the other, one has not money enough to buy the cattle necessary to -place on it before a profit can be obtained? Therefore, in our days, -the emigration of capital from a country is an irremediable disaster. -Now they can scarcely have any idea of making the landowners emigrate, -yet of retaining their capital. I humbly venture to suggest a few of -these reflections to my friends in the Land League. I think they would -be wise to ponder over them in their own interest, for if they realise -their programme, it may happen that as soon as the population see the -results of the campaign they have led them through, a reaction may be -produced, and they would be its first victims. - -In another part of his speech Baron Dowse again laid stress upon the -fact that a few years ago County Kerry, now so disturbed, was quoted -throughout Ireland as the model county. It appears that this is -absolutely true. In this little Arcadia even politics never caused -any divisions. The inhabitants had discovered an excellent method of -avoiding all those quarrels which they usually engender. Still there -were two parties; but since the county returned precisely two members, -it had been agreed, from time immemorial, that each side should have -its own representative. It was always a member of the family of Herbert -of Muckross, who stood for the Liberals, whilst the eldest son of the -Kenmares undertook in Parliament the defence of the Conservatives. When -one died, his son replaced him, and everything went smoothly in this -most quiet county. - -In 1871 an unforeseen circumstance put an end to this peaceful -arrangement. The old Lord Kenmare died in that year. His son, Lord -Castlerosse, heir to the peerage, sent in his resignation as member. -Now it happened that his son was not old enough to succeed him. It -was arranged that until he attained his majority the seat should be -occupied by his cousin, Mr. Dease. Conservatives and Liberals assisted -to secure this combination. But the opportunity seemed favourable to -the Nationalists, who, precisely at the same time were commencing to -draw public attention towards themselves; they decided that the party -should open a struggle in Kerry. Naturally, the excitement was very -great; the partisans of each candidate were soon in position. A very -curious event took place, which makes the want of discipline, the weak -point in the religious organisation of Ireland, very conspicuous. Mr. -Dease was a great landowner in the county, a resident, highly respected -and Catholic. It appeared therefore as though his candidature would -be approved by all the clergy, and this seemed still more probable -because Mgr. Moriarty, the bishop, had accepted the presidency of his -committee. - -It all went for nothing. The diocesan priests in a body openly and -passionately exerted all their influence in favour of the opposing -candidate, Mr. Blennerhassett, quite a young man and a Protestant! -And this was only because he was the candidate for the popular party. -The reason was that, in Ireland, a priest dare not get embroiled with -his parishioners. This situation is often his greatest strength, but -it sometimes involves him in very delicate relations with others. I -believe it was M. Ledru-Rollin who one day made this striking remark: -“I am forced to obey them, since I am their chief!” More than one Irish -priest could say the same thing. - -It was a grand electoral campaign. Political veterans still speak -feelingly about it. At that time the votes were given openly. The -landowners brought their tenants to the poll under safe escort and -never lost sight of them until their votes had been registered. -Besides, each party had recourse to heroic measures. The Isle of -Valencia, which is entirely owned by the Knight of Kerry, had no -polling office. Its electors, who were fairly numerous, were believed -to be thoroughly devoted to their landlord, who had energetically -declared himself in favour of Mr. Dease. He chartered a steamboat to -take them over to the mainland to Cahirciveen, where they ought to -vote. The Nationalists managed during the night to stove in the bottom -of the steamer and to hire every fishing boat in the neighbourhood for -the day, so that not one of the Knight of Kerry’s men was able to vote. -Elsewhere, when they came in contact with timid folks, who, although -partisans of Blennerhassett, dared not run full tilt at their landlord, -the Nationalists made them vote not for Mr. Dease but for Lord Kenmare, -so that their votes were lost; afterwards they assumed a dismayed -expression and excused themselves to their furious landlord by saying -that they thought they were voting for the candidate he patronised. - -Is it necessary to add that Blennerhassett was elected by a large -majority? Alas! the world becomes sadder. Every time one meets with -a really lively institution, one feels sure that it will speedily -be abolished! Open voting has submitted to the universal law. The -Blennerhassett election was the last of its kind that took place in -Kerry. Some months afterwards, in 1872, the new electoral law was -passed. Since that time the Irish elections are, like all others in the -world, horribly dull. - -It is needless to add that now the county only returns Nationalists -to Parliament. Tralee, the capital, which is a small town containing -10,000 inhabitants, claims to be a sea-port because they have made a -canal two miles long between it and the coast, and this enables a few -coasting boats to anchor in a miniature dock situated near the town. -They probably come in search of pigs, for I have met almost as many -of them in the streets as at Limerick. But I do not think they bring -women’s shoes, for I do not remember seeing a single one walking except -with bare feet. - -But the streets are full of animation when we leave the club. The -market has just ended. Buyers and sellers are preparing to return -home. Before the smaller inns men commence harnessing grey donkeys to -little two-wheeled carts which stand in rows two deep, the shafts -in the air. Five or six women squeeze into each of them, their backs -leaning against the sides of the cart, the chin between the knees, or -even lying flat one against the other lengthways, their muddy feet and -bare legs hanging outside. The husband or brother seats himself at the -side on one of the shafts, and when they have wished the neighbours -good-bye, they slowly start on their way home to the small thatched -house standing on the edge of some bog, which they will only leave once -more during a whole week, when they go to mass on Sunday next. - -In front of the houses on the market-place there is an interminable -line of old women; each has in front of her on the edge of the pavement -a small heap of nuts, potatoes, or turnips. The purchasers do not seem -numerous, but the poor old women do not appear uneasy about it. They -evidently return there every market day, less to sell anything than -to see the people, to meet each other, to gossip together about the -good old times, when potatoes were more plentiful, the sun hotter, the -girls prettier, and the “boys” more gallant than they are now! There -they are, seated in the mud, their bare legs twisted on one side to -leave room for passers by, their heads wrapped in old shawls, a few -grey locks peeping through the holes in them, the majority smoking -short black pipes. Myriads of children, charming, but very dirty, roll -in the gutter around them. Poor old women! In their dull, sad lives -these market days stand out like nails placed at intervals in a wall, -on which their recollections are hung. I remember at Tamatave seeing -the old Malagachy women arrive from all sides, almost naked, their ribs -projecting under their sickly skin, emaciated, hideous, yet having -walked twelve or fifteen miles to sell two eggs and a cabbage palm--in -reality to gossip with their neighbours. Human nature is the same -everywhere. - -But I have not time now to continue my observations. As soon as the -grand jury had finished luncheon they started to go to the town-hall, -and since these gentlemen had kindly invited me to be present at their -work, I hastened to accompany them. - -It is evident that the principles on which the composition of the grand -jury rest are no longer tenable. I have already said so, and I repeat -it. They are contrary to every idea of right, since the taxes are voted -by these men, who are, but very indirectly, the representatives of -those who ought to pay them, and who at all events are not elected by -them. The best medicine in the world usually works only harm if the -patient takes it against his will. A peasant may be obliged to pass -over the bridge in front of his house every day, but if he is asked -for a shilling to keep it in repair, and if the man who imposes the -shilling is the great landowner next to him, he will always remain -convinced that it is only the great landowner who will profit by the -shilling he has made him pay. Formerly, when the different classes -agreed, it was not the same thing; but now that war is declared, it -is manifestly impossible that an Irish peasant will be anything but -exasperated by the thought that it is only his political enemies who -have any voice on the subject, and who administer the affairs of -his barony or county. This institution of the grand jury must then -disappear: it is fatal. So much for the question of principle. But, -this once admitted, we may ask ourselves whether, practically, matters -would be improved if the people had as magistrates and grand jury men -such men as the little tailor of Kenmare. It seems very doubtful to me. - -I made these reflections this morning whilst watching the assembly of -the grand jury. After its members had taken the oath, they honoured me -by admitting me into the council hall, and giving me a chair behind -the president’s, Colonel Crosbie’s, seat. He was placed in the middle -of a table, shaped like a horseshoe, around which all his colleagues -were seated. When I entered they were occupied with the public works. -A secretary standing behind the president read aloud the contractors’ -tenders--tenders which, I believe, had already been examined by a -sub-committee. From time to time a member asked for a few words of -explanation from the county engineer or from the contractors, who stood -apart at the end of the hall. No one made any speeches. No one wished -to raise an election cry by asking for impossibilities, as occasionally -happens amongst us. One felt that there were only competent well-bred -men present. It must be owned that that is a good deal. - -Both Protestants and Catholics are here--I am even told that for -some years the sheriff has always taken care to introduce a certain -number of Nationalists--opinions are therefore much divided. However, -politics do not appear in any way. These gentlemen only seem to -occupy themselves with the affairs of the county. What a lesson for -us! At this moment, in Paris, one cannot be a Republican and yet -believe in the efficacy of Pasteur’s method; in revenge one cannot -be a Conservative and doubt it! These Irishmen would seem very far -behind the Parisian municipal councillors! At all events they are -good-humoured, and that, in my humble opinion, is always an advantage. -They exchange little jokes even while despatching business. The order -of the day involved a most interesting discussion. “In consideration -of the annual payment of a sum of 16_l._ 13_s._ the undernamed Joseph -A. Connell offers to undertake the maintenance of the road from -Knocknagasher to Ballinascreena, between the cross of Ballinagerah and -that of Meendhorna! Does this offer conceal a trap, or should it be -accepted?” At the moment that each grand jury man mentally and with -some anxiety asks himself this question, a lamentable voice is heard. - -“Mr. President!” exclaims an old, wretched-looking grand jury man, who -is seated at the end of the table, to the left facing the door--“Mr. -President! Could not the window behind me be closed? I am in such a -draught that I feel my hair blowing off my head.” - -“Sir,” replied the president with serene courtesy, “although I am -secure myself from the danger you foresee,” (the honourable president -is as bald as an apple,) “I consider it my duty to accede to your -request. Constable, shut the window!” - -The clerk, convulsed with laughter, buries his face in his papers; the -grand jury men shake in their chairs; the contractors at the end of the -hall laugh out loud; and even one of the constables smiles. He is a -young man, and has not yet attained the Olympian impassibility that is -distinctive of this select corps. - -Unfortunately the train is due. I am obliged to hastily shake hands -with Mr. Trench whilst thanking him for his kind hospitality. I -penetrated, with some effort, through the groups of peasants who -thronged the porch of the town-hall, and I had but just time to jump -into the carriage which was to take me back to Ballinacourty. - -Travelling by railway is singularly favourable to reflection, -particularly when one is alone in the compartment and the country on -either side utters little of interest. Whilst the locomotive speeds -on, without too much hurry, in the direction of Limerick, I reflect -over all that I have seen in the last three days. What a singular -social organisation exists in this country. Positively, one cannot -conceal it from one’s self, the country is, from a material point -of view, entirely at the mercy of half a dozen agents. These agents -offer, in most respects, every possible guarantee. They are men of -great experience, because in nearly all cases they fill the office of -estate managers from father to son. They are intelligent and upright; -if they were not their business would soon suffer from it, for it is -not unusual for a landowner to change his agent. But no one denies -their possession of all these qualities. Every morning I read all the -newspapers on both sides. I have not yet found a single accusation -against the respectability of the agents. It is certain that no other -nation owns a body of officials who can be compared to them. - -But they are not officials, they do not seek any part of the public -power, and they are not elected for any. They have not, therefore, to -render any account of their actions, either to the Government as though -they were officials, nor to the electors as though they were their -representatives; and yet, at a time when the system works regularly, -the force of circumstances gives them over almost all the citizens -power nearly as absolute as that of the pachas over the raias of the -Turkish empire. They cannot impale an individual who offends them, -but they can easily transport him. In fact, in this country, where -agriculture is the only industry, a man can only live, on condition -of having some land, the necessary tool for the exercise of this -industry. Now an agent can take this tool from him, and, if he does, -the man has no resource but to emigrate. One can therefore say that -thousands of families are dependent upon one man to such an extent that -he can transport them if he wishes to do so. It must unquestionably be -very hard to feel one’s self so completely in a man’s power, however -honourable he may be. This position of affairs results from an economic -situation which laws cannot affect. It is not the less true that it is -dangerous, for it is easily understood that in certain dispositions it -produces a state of exasperation which may lead to any crimes. - -You must notice that it is not the administration of the land which is -the chief source of this state of things. Most of the estates are very -large, that is true, but there are also a fair number of middle-sized -ones. If they were managed by their owners or by different agents, the -situation would be less serious. A farmer dismissed from Lord X----’s -estate could find a farm under Lord Y----, or Messrs. A----, B---- or -C----; but here he is prevented from doing so by the fact that the same -agent manages the properties of all these gentlemen. As I said in the -commencement, the whole county is therefore in the hands of five or six -men, who are all interested in keeping on good terms with each other. -When there has been a rupture with one of them, a man may feel sure -that he will not be accepted by either of the others. - -In England the situation is very different. A man dismissed from -Lord X----’s land may perhaps be unable to become a tenant of Lord -Y----, another great landowner in the neighbourhood, but there are -twenty factories in the environs where he can always earn his living. -Expulsion from the farm where he is working does not necessarily end in -emigration. - -It is now more than a hundred years since France commenced her -evolution towards absolute political liberty. Of the orators and -authors who have placed their thoughts on paper to aid their ideas, -every one without exception has taken Great Britain as an example. To -all those who feel alarm at the rapidity of the movement, they always -answer, “What are you afraid of? The absolute freedom of the press, -the right of meeting, the right of association--all these liberties of -which you dread the abuse, have existed in England for centuries, and -have never injured either order or property.” - -I will not give an opinion on the root of this question, that would -entail too long a digression. I would only prove that the comparison -is fundamentally wrong, and consequently, argument is of little value. -It is very true that at all epochs the Irish or English agricultural -labourers have had the right of assembling, when they liked, on -the highways, around one of their number, and of there comfortably -listening to the most furious diatribes against the established laws. -The police had no right to interfere, and so they abstained from -interference. - -Only, the following day the orators, and, if requisite, some of the -assembly, receive notice from the agent that they would have to -remove, sometimes at twenty-four hours’ notice, more frequently at -the end of the lease; and this notice is equivalent to a sentence of -transportation, at least as far as concerns the Irish. In England the -consequences are less serious; but it is not less true that in most -of the rural counties, only an infinitesimal number of electors have -the right of avowing political opinions which differ from those of the -chiefs of the two great national parties. The result is that an action, -which, although illegal in France, would only entail a fortnight’s -imprisonment to the man who committed it, is in England followed by -the most terrible consequences, although it is perfectly legal in the -country. The English Government, ultra Liberal in theory, which now -poses to all Europe as a model of Liberalism, has therefore only worked -until a very recent period through a system which suppressed in an -almost absolute degree all political liberty amongst the lower classes. -Now, for some years, particularly in Ireland, these classes have begun -to appreciate the situation; they wish to have in fact the rights they -had only in theory; and they have been able, by coalition, to paralyse -the anonymous powers which formerly ruled them, and above all, which -encircled them so efficaciously. - -And now the Government has ceased to act at all! I require no other -proof than the speech made by Baron Dowse. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[3] If any of my readers are interested in the misfortunes of the -poor people of Kenmare they will be pleased to learn that owing to -his forcible eloquence and diplomacy Mr. Trench was able to induce -the grand jury to make an order, which charged the whole county with -the sum that the barony alone ought to have reimbursed through the -collector’s theft. The taxpayers at Kenmare had then good reason to -congratulate themselves upon having confided to him the care of their -interests. - -[4] Here are two of the old couplets, which confirm the claims of the -Blarney stone: - - “There is a stone there - That whoever kisses, - Oh! he never misses - To grow eloquent. - ’Tis he may clamber - To a lady’s chamber, - Or become a member - Of Parliament. - - “A clever spouter - He’ll sure turn out, or - An out and outer - To be let alone! - Don’t hope to hinder him, - Or to bewilder him, - Sure he’s a pilgrim - From the Blarney Stone!” - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - SEEKING AN AUTHENTIC CASE OF BOYCOTTING--LINE-FISHING ON THE - SHANNON--THE CONSTITUTIONAL--ENGLISH EDUCATION--THE IRISH - FARMERS--SUNDAY AT CASTLE-CONNELL--DEPARTURE FOR SHAUNGANEEN--MR. - THOMPSON--THE CORK DEFENCE UNION--CLOSE BOYCOTTING--PRETTY MISS - M’CARTHY AND HER LEG OF MUTTON--ENSILAGE IN THE OPEN AIR--THE - RETURN FROM CAHIRMEE--THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ENGLISH LADIES’ - VIRTUE AND THE BREEDING OF HALF THOROUGHBREDS--THE ORIGIN OF - HARICOT MUTTON--CHRISTMAS NIGHT AT SHAUNGANEEN, 1880. - - -_July 12th._--The study of the newspapers and everything that is said -around me shows me that I have at present only seen Ireland in the most -exceptional light. At Kenmare a fortunate combination of circumstances -has resulted in the two parties having as their chiefs very intelligent -men, both very popular in the two camps, and both using every effort to -calm the public feelings. The situation is so strained, that in spite -of these favourable conditions, there are some drawbacks: but suppose a -less prudent agent or landlord, or even a president of the Land League -who was anxious to attain notoriety, was there, as elsewhere, they -would certainly be in the same state that I am told is only too common -in this unhappy country. - -I should be much disappointed if I were forced to quit Ireland without -being able to judge for myself what the life of an unfortunate -man severely boycotted, as they say here, is like. The hospitable -traditions of the Emerald Isle are always in full force. I had -therefore scarcely expressed this wish before my amiable hosts -endeavoured to gratify it. It was not difficult to find a boycotted -person. There are enough of them to form a regiment, and every one to -whom I explain my difficulty says at once: “I know exactly what you -want.” They then proceed to enumerate with the greatest complacency -all the claims which their man can advance to be called “severely -boycotted.” - -In this way I received so many invitations, that, naturally being -unable to accept them all, I was involved in a serious amount of work -before I could ascertain which was the most authentic case. I proceeded -to eliminate them. For instance, one amiable landlord, who has not -received one penny from his farms for two or three years, about a -fortnight ago received as compensation three shots in his hat in one -evening, whilst he was driving his dog-cart along the road. This at -first appeared to be a serious claim; but I soon changed my impression. -Mr. X---- was actually fired at, but the shot was intended for one of -his neighbours. His servant never doubted it for an instant. When he -heard the shot whistling past his ears he turned round, and furiously -apostrophising the assassin whom they saw running away across a field, -he shouted out-- - -“You fool, to take his honour for Mr. Z----! Have you no eyes?” - -Then, when his first anger had passed, he turned towards his master and -amicably admonished him. - -“There,” he said, “your honour is wrong! You know that Mr. Z---- has -been condemned by the League, and yet you drive out in the dusk with -a grey horse as like Mr. Z----’s as two drops of water. It isn’t -reasonable. A poor fellow can easily make a mistake!” - -And on the next morning Mr. X---- received by post a letter signed -“Captain Moonlight,” confirming in every respect his servant’s -explanation. The Captain much regretted his agent’s mistake, and -congratulated himself on the fortunate want of skill which had -prevented an “accident,” which he could never have forgiven himself, -ending his letter by advising his correspondent in a friendly way to -get rid of his grey horse or to leave it in the stables for some time. - -The first duty of a really patriotic traveller is to point out to the -merchants of his own country every good thing that may present itself -to him. I therefore notify Parisian horse-dealers that for the last -fortnight grey horses were sold for next to nothing in this country. -But this is a digression, which I hope will be pardoned on account of -the sentiment which inspired it. I said then that these explanations -appeared to me to diminish the value of Mr. X----’s claim to the title -of “severely boycotted;” in my opinion those of Mr. Z---- are superior. -But since he hastened to Italy, where he wished to visit some of the -museums, and his return still appears to be indefinitely postponed, I -am forced to renounce the idea of studying the beauties of boycottage -at his house. - -At last I discovered the object of my search. Mr. Thompson is one of -the principal agents in County Cork; he is unquestionably boycotted, -and if only one half of what is reported in the newspapers about him is -true, he is quite as “severely” so as any one could wish; for during -the last eighteen months it has been necessary to place a garrison -of seventy-five men in his house. It has but just been withdrawn, and -will probably be replaced. Mr. Thompson, with whom I had been put in -communication, immediately and with the greatest kindness wrote to -invite me to stay with him, only he begged me not to arrive before -Monday. I had therefore three days to spend at Ballinacourty. I was, -however, only too pleased with the delay, which allowed me to enjoy -Colonel M----’s charming hospitality a little longer, and to see a -little of that country life, which differs so much in England from -anything of the same kind in France, and which--must I own it?--is so -much more agreeable. - -This morning I went for a walk alone to see the country and talk at -leisure to the peasantry. My first visit is always to the Shannon; -through my open windows, I can hear in the night the roaring of its -cascades. Its banks are covered with superb trees, and nothing is more -charming than a walk there in the morning. It can only be made by -passing through private grounds, for from here to Castle Connell the -whole country between the high road and the river is occupied by the -parks of seven or eight castles or country houses. But in this country -the owners seem to invite you to enter their properties. Everywhere you -find hurdle fences or gates always standing open. - -I own that I was first attracted by the fly-fishing. Amongst us a -fisherman is nearly always an elderly man for whom life has ceased to -have illusions. He likes solitude, and consoles himself by the society -of the gudgeons in place of the mortifications of an existence passed -on the stool of a bureau or in the thick atmosphere of a back shop; the -fraternity is also recruited by a number of retired officers; there -are even some old captains of the line who belong to it, but they are -in bad odour with the general inspectors and are never promoted to a -superior rank. - -English fishermen are very different. That which amongst us is almost -regarded as the first halting-place in the progress towards the final -softening of the brain, is, on the contrary, amongst our neighbours, -considered a brevet of supreme elegance. Angling is one of their -most-appreciated sports. A whole literature is devoted to it. When -a young cavalry guardsman can announce to his comrades, towards the -month of June, that he has obtained three weeks’ leave to go and -install himself in a hut in Sweden, on the banks of a stream where -he can get some fly-fishing, he becomes the object of secret envy -amongst all his less fortunate comrades. If a French novelist made -one of his heroes enjoy fly-fishing, you would feel sure that he is a -husband, who would be abominably deceived before the third chapter; -when an English one wishes to explain the lightning flash that kindled -in Miss Kissmequick’s heart an inane love for the lively Irish Major -O’Kelshick, he describes him taking three trout in ten minutes before -the young heiress! That is quite enough to subjugate her, and not an -English girl reads it but she inwardly owns that it would be quite -enough for her too! - -There is another thing well recognised by all observers really worthy -of the name, and this is that amongst the different races of men and -animals called to live together in the same country, there are always -physically, as well as morally, if not some points of resemblance, at -least some phenomena of conformation which indicate that they are made -to assist each other. Thus, suppose that Providence had decreed that -the race of Perche horses should resemble the Corsican ponies, where -would the stout Normandy farmers’ wives, with their rounded forms, -have been able to place all that, by the gift of exuberant Nature, -they are forced to carry to market, when they are seated pillionwise -behind their husbands? It is because they require so much room that the -Percheron mares themselves have those beautiful round haunches which -have made them so justly celebrated; whilst the small Corsican women -whom one sees arrive at the Alata or Boccognano markets are perfectly -comfortable on their thin ponies. Providence does all things well! - -We must also notice--and it is in order to reach this point that I -have allowed myself this digression--we must, I say, notice that this -similitude does not only exist in external forms, it is also visible -in characters. For instance, an Englishman knows how to imprint his -individuality on all that surrounds him, animate as well as inanimate -objects. The Englishman is a being whose manners are always solemn and -systematic. He is so much the slave of his habits that he carries them -with him wherever he may be. Imagine two Englishmen, one at Chimborazo, -the other on the Himalayas, and except for the difference of time which -results from the difference of longitude, you may be sure that they -will both eat the same thing at the same hour. If you offer them at -two o’clock the meal they have been accustomed to eat at eight, or at -eight the repast they are used to take at two, they will wither you -with a glance pregnant with the deepest contempt, and turn their backs -upon you. The completeness of these habits constitute what is called -respectability. - -Well, the fish in this country--it is of Ireland that I am -speaking--have contracted these habits. Offer as bait to one of our -fish anything extraordinary, and he will swallow it, even if it is -not good, simply from love of change, from curiosity. This sentiment -in the last century made all our great ladies enjoy going to the -_porcherons_ so much to eat the _petits plats canailles_ there. This -is why we are such a revolutionary people! The trout and the salmon in -the Shannon are not like that. If at eight o’clock you offer them a fly -which they adore, but which generally they only eat at noon, instead -of being seduced by the novelty, as our French fish would be, instead -of allowing themselves to be tempted by the earliness of the season, -they would turn round with a whisk of the tail, and you would not -see another of them. Your advances, although well meant, shock them, -because you have broken the usual rules, and they perceive in your -action an attack against their respectability. - -The English quite understand these sentiments. This is why, just as -Baron Brisse composed a daily _menu_, to the great assistance of his -readers, so they formed albums of artificial flies, which one has only -to turn over to see what a trout or salmon who respected himself, -should take not only every day of the year, but also every hour of each -day. This idea appeared so sublime to me that I bought one of these -albums; it cost me five pounds, and its information has never aided me -in catching a single French fish. - -But the English are more fortunate, or more skilful, than I am. Every -morning, at dawn, I see the tenants or owners of fishing wending their -way towards the river, consulting their albums. Two men are waiting -for them seated in a punt moored to a tree. They begin by a long -discussion as to which fly it would be most advisable to offer as the -dish of the day. In order to settle this, they carefully examine the -flies that are visible on the river. A still more certain means, when -it is practicable, is to procure a trout, and to open its stomach to -see what it has eaten for its first breakfast. When once their choice -is made, they dress four or five hooks; one is fastened to the line, -the others are placed round the hat ready for use. I ought to have -mentioned that fly-fishing requires a special costume. It seems to me -that it is absolutely necessary to wear knickerbockers, and for the -complete suit to be of homespun, with yellow or green squares, the same -sort of thing that we see the English wear from time to time in the -opera amongst us--but not over here! - -When these preparations are once ended, the punt is pushed into the -midst of the river; the two boatmen, seated at the extremities, keep it -still in the current, and their master sets to work. He flourishes his -line two or three times in the air, and then with an adroit turn of the -rod, he throws the fly up the stream, as far away as possible, holds -it on the surface of the water whilst it descends the stream, and then -recommences, without growing tired of it, during four or five hours. -Every morning I see seven or eight gentlemen devote themselves to this -amusement. From time to time their fly catches a hat on its way, either -their own or a boatman’s. This is about the only thing I ever saw them -catch. When it happens, they pause an instant in order to enable the -owner to recover his lost headgear, but this is the only incident which -can trouble their Olympian serenity. - -These are the lucky ones of this world. They pay 200_l._ or 300_l._ -per annum, and sometimes more, to obtain the right of enjoying this -amusement. They alone can hope to capture a salmon, but allow others to -gather up the crumbs from their table. On the bank one sees gentlemen -of less importance, whom the others allow to fish for trout. This is -the democracy of fly-fishing. Outside all questions of sentiment or -prejudices, whichever you like, I do not pity them much, for they -appear to me to catch a great deal more than the others. - -I am not the only one who contemplates all these beautiful scenes. I -also meet on the river banks a good number of people who are taking -their constitutionals--that walk for health’s sake which absorbs -one-half of every good Englishman’s existence. The “constitutional” is -still an institution of the country. I must say a few words about it. - -All philosophers agree that the body is a machine given to man for -his use. English ideas about the method of employing this machine are -very different from our own. A Frenchman, as a rule, is not anxious -to make any exceptional demands upon its strength. His great desire -is that the machine should work properly and without requiring too -much care. If on days when he feels so inclined he can walk twelve -or fifteen miles without fatigue; if at the fair at Saint Cloud he -can unhook an honourable number with a blow on the Turk’s head, he -is perfectly satisfied. And if any one came and said to him, “Place -yourself under my directions; I will make you rise early and go to bed -early, although you like to rise late and sit up late: I will make you -walk quickly six or seven hours a day, after which I will exterminate -you with exercises on the dumb-bells; I will prevent your eating when -you are hungry and drinking when you are thirsty; but thanks to my -rules you will be able to do thirty miles without noticing it; at the -next fair at Saint Cloud you will when you play give such a blow to the -Turk’s head that the whole machine will be reduced to matchwood, and -if you will accept a pair of the running breeches which Mr. Marseille -offers for the use of amateurs, you will beat all his pupils in turn, -amongst the applause of the idolatrous crowd;” I would bet heavily -that ninety-nine Frenchmen out of a hundred would reply to this vile -tempter-- - -“A thousand thanks! But first of all, I have a number of more -interesting and amusing things to do than any of those you propose for -me. I have only one life, and should be miserable if I used it in so -wearisome a fashion. And lastly, if I must tell you the whole truth, it -is possible that the prospect you open out to me may be very attractive -to certain people, but it leaves me quite indifferent! Allow me, then, -to remain as I am!” - -An Englishman would probably accept the bargain at once. I was wrong -to use the conditional. Two-thirds of the English, at least of those -who belong to the upper classes of society, look up to this ideal from -their earliest youth. Amongst our neighbours the truest happiness in -reality consists in the enjoyment and exercise of physical strength. -Incontestably that is the quality that they most appreciate. I have -seen many Englishmen, thoroughly exasperated against Mr. Gladstone -because of his Radicalism, allow their anger to melt away when they -remember that although nearly eighty years old, he can still cut down -trees at Hawarden. - -A father feels more pride in his son’s talents as a boxer or rower, -than in his literary success at Oxford or Cambridge. Amongst us, the -newspapers write lengthily about the great competitions, but completely -neglect to inform us of the games of prisoner’s base which the young -candidates may have previously waged in their respective colleges. -In England, the _Times_ gives a short summary of the examinations at -the end of the Oxford and Cambridge years; but as soon as the annual -boat-race between the two universities draws near, its columns are -freely opened to all details respecting it. For three months before -the event takes place special reporters are employed to keep the -English and colonial populations acquainted with the most minute -particulars respecting the rowers’ health. They begin by quoting the -men’s weights; the special rules that the trainers impose upon each of -them are carefully explained. One fine morning, England learns with -consternation that Jones, the stroke of one of the boats, has awakened -with a slight headache; but on the morrow a relieved sigh escapes from -thirty million breasts on reading the assurance that judicious purging -has cured Jones’s headache. - -These customs, which seem so strange to us, have certainly their good -side. A young Englishman of sixteen or seventeen is intellectually -one of the most prodigious dunces in creation. If one is absolutely -determined to make him talk, one can induce him easily enough to relate -every detail of the fine boxing match between Jack Thompson and Dick -Harris, or he will even explain to you, and very clearly, the rules he -followed in order to lose five pounds of his weight in one week, and -beat Tom Wilkinson racing. This is all you can get from him, and it is -very wearisome. But I infinitely prefer the type to that of Chérubin -de Beaumarchais, who, nevertheless, never existed, or that of Fanfan -Benoîton, who, unfortunately, is only too common amongst us. - -The most terrible thing is that in this respect a young Englishman -does not improve as he grows older, at least for the first few years. -When he is nearly thirty years old, and he has seen and done a good -many things, he often becomes interesting. But before that he has an -extraordinary lack of conversation. There are several reasons for -this. First of all he knows very little, for, in fact, he never learnt -anything whilst he was at college. He does not read much: he really -only interests himself in questions of sport. More than this, he takes -no trouble. A Frenchman always thinks he can please a woman by seeking -to be witty in her presence. The efforts he makes with this object may -perhaps render him ridiculous, but it is because every one is doing his -best that our _salons_ are so agreeable and contain so many pleasant -talkers. In England these ideas do not exist. Physical beauty rather -than wit secures worldly success for a young man. In France a woman -is fairly content not to be witty, but she desires above all to be -beautiful; on the contrary, most of the men are indifferent about their -appearance, but would be greatly mortified if any one questioned their -wit. - -In England the position is completely reversed. A fashionable young -man, entering a drawing-room, takes no trouble to please the ladies -present; he almost seems to say: “You must court and admire me!” On -the other hand an Englishwoman is not coquettish in dress. She often -flirts _à outrance_ before her marriage, but that is necessary in order -to obtain a husband. As soon as she has landed her prize she troubles -very little about her appearance. But, in return, her husband is always -well dressed, and often spends more on his clothes than she does on -hers. - -I said that young Englishmen know very little when they leave college. -It would be very difficult for them to do otherwise, having given to -study only the few hours left from cricket and boating. Most of the -well-informed men that one meets have learnt all that they know after -they left college. The educational system in this country has then -a curious result. Whilst they are paying dearly for classes held by -excellent professors, and for the use of the finest libraries in the -world, they only learn boating, and it is quite impossible to study -seriously, since all the time is passed in recreation. But some higher -natures resent this deprivation of work so strongly that they leave -college with a profound distaste for idleness, and they succeed in -their self-instruction. Perhaps it would be more rational to work -seriously during the years at college and to boat afterwards. This -is the French system, only we exaggerate it so much that through -unremitting study at college many of our young men are apt to dislike -work afterwards. The true idea, according to the Romans, would be to -have a _mens sana in corpore sano_. We Frenchmen, particularly in -former years, have perhaps done rather too much for the development -of the mind and not enough for the body; but really the English have -always seemed to me to have gone too far in the opposite direction. - -When I had ended my walk by the river-side, I returned across the -fields and highway, talking to the peasants whom I met. Really, the -more one sees of these fine Irishmen, the more one becomes attached -to them. They have only two faults--they are very idle and horribly -untruthful. But how witty they are! I am told that the other day an -English tourist, a man already elderly, arrived at Castle Connell. -He intended passing some weeks here, and on the recommendation of a -friend, he had written to the inn to secure a room; he wished for one -in the front of the house. He had been promised one, but did not get -it. An honourable individual, living by his wits, introduced himself as -having fishing rights in the river, and led him, for a consideration, -to a certain spot, where he left him, promising him wonderful success. -In five minutes he was arrested by a keeper, who threatened him with -prosecution. After three or four adventures of the same kind he packed -his portmanteau, vowing that he would never visit Ireland again. - -At the station, just as he was starting, he was surrounded by four or -five beggars. - -“You tell me,” said he, “that you are dying of hunger; that too, must -be a lie. Since I have been in this country I hear nothing but lies. -Look, here are three shillings! I promise them to whoever will tell me -the biggest!” - -“Ah,” readily answered the most ragged of the band, addressing his -neighbour, “here, at least, is a _ra-al gintleman_!” And he held out -his hand, sure of having won the three shillings. - -We must not judge this want of veracity too severely: it is the certain -result of centuries of oppression, during which untruthfulness was -the sole protection of the persecuted against the persecutor. Every -race that has passed through the same trials has the same defect, -and it is very slowly corrected. If I allude to it, it is because I -perceive that the information that one receives in this country must -be accepted with some reserve. An Irish peasant, in contrast to our -own, is always inclined to speak of his affairs. Only if one holds two -conversations with him, leaving a day’s interval between them, one -finds that frequently his statements on the second day bear very little -resemblance to those he had made on the preceding one. It is therefore -difficult to arrive at the truth. Thus, after once visiting all their -houses, I considered that the fact that these people were living in -misery was conclusively proved. - -But perhaps this is not so certain as I fancied. We must distinguish -between them. Those who twenty or twenty-five years ago had a -fair-sized and not too bad a farm have profited by the rise in the -price of meat, and have made money. If they live so miserably it is -because it suits them. The proof that until quite recently they were -doing well, is, that when they felt inclined to give up their farms -they easily found people who gave them relatively considerable sums as -the price of their lease. And this often when the landlords had not -received one penny of rent for some years. But a farmer’s position -could not be as bad as he pretended, since he could find others who -were ready to accept it, although it was aggravated by the price of the -lease. I, however, believe that an enormous decrease in the number of -farms is inevitable here as elsewhere, and here more than elsewhere. -The price of meat is lower in all the English ports, particularly -the price of medium qualities, through the immense importations -of American and Australian meat: this trade is likely to increase -prodigiously, for its profits are enormous. But, until the last few -years, farmers who had one hundred acres, ought, at least, to have been -able to pay their rents very comfortably. - -We must therefore distinguish between them. The large farmers, who -were able to raise cattle, pretend to be miserable, but are not really -in distress. They try to profit by the situation. But the misery -is terrible amongst the small farmers, who are much more numerous, -since it certainly includes four-fifths of the population. Some years -ago there were 300,000 holdings under 5 acres; 250,000 from 5 to 15 -acres; 80,000 from 15 to 30; and only 50,000 of more than 30; and, -consequently, there were more than 600,000 families who lived on farms -of less than 15 acres. The great majority were therefore unable to -raise cattle. Now agriculture, which has never been very remunerative -in this country, on account of the climate and of the inferior quality -of the soil, is absolutely impossible now that to these drawbacks -foreign competition is added. The small farm has therefore no future -here, as I have already said, but it cannot be repeated too often, -because any policy that is not inspired by this fundamental truth, can -only result in disaster. Besides, one of the reasons which have made -small holdings so successful with us, is the spirit of order, economy, -and industry, which so greatly characterises our peasantry. Now, I do -not know whether Irishmen are very economical; I rather doubt it; but -I am sure that the Irishwomen, at least, are not industrious. If they -were they would never allow their own and their children’s clothes -to remain in the state we see them in. Every lady tells me that there -is scarcely one peasant in ten who knows how to sew. The other day -I visited the convent at Kenmare, and I saw there a hundred little -girls, whom the Sisters were teaching to make a lace that appeared to -me to resemble the lace made at Caen. The nuns owned to me that their -pupils had very little inclination for needlework. Neither have they -any aptitude for cooking. When I enter a house at meal times I always -see three rather dirty dishes on the table. On the first there is a -piece of bacon, on the second and the third there are boiled potatoes -and cabbages. The whole is as little appetising as possible. It reminds -me of the horrible meals in the Far West. With the same materials a -Burgundian would make a dish of which the smell alone would revive the -dead. - -The afternoon was passed in calling upon the neighbours, for I find -that there is much sociable visiting in this country. The day before -yesterday there was a grand charitable sale of work, which was attended -by more than three hundred people. Every day of the week there is a -tennis party held somewhere. There I met, dressed in white flannel and -in an extraordinary state of perspiration, all the people whom I saw -in the morning taking their constitutionals or fly-fishing. At each of -these little festivals assemble at least thirty or forty people who -live in a radius of about six miles at the outside--and even less, for -many of the young men come on foot, carrying their tennis shoes with -them. I do not know any province in France, and I do not believe there -are any, where it would be possible to organise so many reunions of -this kind. The ruin of Ireland through absenteeism!--this thesis so -frequently brought forward is surely a legend! In any case, at least in -this county, absenteeism is much rarer than is reported and than I had -imagined. In the immediate neighbourhood of Ballinacourty there are at -least twenty castles and country houses. All but one are inhabited. If -this is empty, it is not the owner’s fault; he is dead. - -To-day is Sunday. This morning two jaunting cars conducted the master -and servants to Castle Connell. Since noon yesterday it rains in -torrents. This does not prevent all the peasant women whom we meet -on the road, walking to church, being dressed in wonderful costumes. -I noticed five or six women, whom I had seen during the week, their -hair falling round their faces, bare-footed, scarcely covered with a -chemise and a petticoat. To-day they have bonnets with flowers, boots, -and some of them silk dresses. The men, without being so brilliant, -are relatively well dressed. Apparently it is only the children who -do not participate in this general Sunday smartness. I see numbers of -them running in the mud, nearly as naked as during the week. But they -improve by being seen in the rain. They are washed. - -At the entrance to Castle Connell our carriages draw up before the -Protestant Church, a pretty little place, where a young English -clergyman officiates who has not, like his colleague at Kenmare, joined -the Land League. He is therefore not on good terms with the Catholic -population. But on the other hand, his parishioners praise him highly. - -The neighbouring gentry arrive one after the other. Seeing me remain in -the carriage, Lord M---- graciously signed to me to take a seat in his -pew; but I reply to this proposal by a horrified gesture which makes -them all laugh heartily, and I go with all the coachmen and footmen to -the Catholic church. - -When I reach it a compact crowd is hurrying in. Under the porch I -notice a group of men surrounding a table on which a tray is placed. -One of them addresses me roughly as I pass: - -“Don’t you mean to subscribe?” - -“Subscribe! What for?” - -“Take care, Jim!” interrupted one of his companions, “it’s the -Frenchman staying with the Colonel.” - -“Ah! you are French. God bless the French! Now, sir, won’t you kindly -subscribe something for the election expenses of those who defend the -good cause [the Parliamentary Fund]?” - -I placed a few shillings on the tray. I am sure that there were already -8_l._ or 10_l._ there. What a nice thing it is to be a candidate in -this country! Alas! it is not like this at home! - -I hope that my offering will please Mr. Harrington. In any case, it has -not injured me in the opinion of the inhabitants of Castle Connell, for -one of them at once led me to the front, and showered civilities upon -me all through the mass. - -This evening I said good-bye to my kind hosts, for I must start early -in order to meet Mr. Thompson at Limerick, where he undertakes to show -me Irish life under a new aspect. It appears that up to now I have only -seen the Land Leaguers in rose colour. He will take me home with him, -where he promises to show me the best they can do in this way. I am, -therefore, on my way to a boycotted country! - -_July 13th._--I quite understand that, strictly speaking, the Irish -complain of having too many policemen. However, seeing what is taking -place amongst them, it appears as though there were more reason to -increase their number than to withdraw those who are already there. -But they ought, at least, to feel proud of those whom the English -Government gives them. For whatever may be the connection that exists -with them; whether they protect or arrest you, it is always preferable -to have dealings with a clean, well-dressed policeman than with a dirty -one. The lists of the Irish constabulary force are so numerous that -this corps is perhaps more like an army than a police force. But I have -never seen an army so well dressed. When I see some of its men passing, -and I mentally compare them with those we see at home, I cannot help -owning that the comparison is very painful to my national pride. Why do -they not improve such a sorry state of things? Why, for instance, is it -necessary, no matter what the rulers are--and yet, God knows, we change -them often enough--why, I repeat, must the breeches of our army be -always so badly made, whilst the trousers of all these constables look -as though they had come from some great tailors’ workshops? The other -day, I was sufficiently curious to ask the officer with whom I dined at -Kenmare, how they managed so as to make it always quite unnecessary to -address to these men the reproaches good St. Eloi so freely bestowed on -his august master. He explained to me--I am speaking of the officer, -not of St. Eloi--that the clothes are all kept in the shops, not made -as they are with us, but simply cut out. In this state they are given -to the men. Then, thanks to an allowance, given on purpose, there is -a tailor in each locality, who undertakes to fit them and sew them -together. The same system also prevails in the navy. Would it then -be quite impossible to attempt an analogous combination amongst us? -Whatever the results might be, they could not be worse than those which -sadden our eyes and disgrace one half of our army--the half nearest the -ground. - -Mr. Thompson had appointed to meet me this morning in the Limerick -station, from which we were to start together for his home at -Shaunganeen, but as he was coming from the south, and I from Castle -Connell, our trains did not fit in, and I had to wait nearly -three-quarters of an hour. What can be done in a railway station, -unless one dreams? might have said M. de la Fontaine, had stations -existed in his time. And therefore I allowed myself to make all the -reflections which I have just written down--reflections suggested to me -by the sight of twenty or twenty-five constables, who, after forming on -the quay under a sergeant’s orders, took their seats four by four on -the benches of jaunting cars, which were waiting for them before the -door. They then drove off towards the country. - -“There, a few more poor devils will sleep homeless to-night!” said one -of the railway officials, standing by my side, looking at them with an -unsympathetic air. - -And it is probable that they are going to aid in an eviction. The men -are in marching dress, knapsack on the back, and rifle on the shoulder. -I must mention that the cars waiting for them are painted red, and -driven by officials belonging to the Government. Formerly, when a -squad had to be transferred rapidly from one point to another, the -Government hired carriages, but now it has been obliged for some years -to have its own, for there was not one owner who dared provide them for -its use. - -My meditation was suddenly interrupted. - -“We must hurry,” said Mr. Thompson, who had just arrived; “our train is -ready, we have but just time to take our places.” - -Two minutes later we were rolling towards Shaunganeen. Mr. Thompson is, -like Mr. Trench my host at Kenmare, one of the best known agents in the -south of Ireland. During the two hours that the journey lasted he told -me his story, and related through what train of unlucky circumstances -he could now boast of being at the present time one of the most -boycotted men in all Ireland. You must first know that Mr. Thompson is -not, like most of his brethren, content to be only a receiver of rents. -Instead of letting to the farmers all the land, the management of which -has been confided to him, he retains a sufficiently large portion in -his own hands, reserving it for the landlord. This arrangement would -be quite unsuccessful amongst us. However, they say that certain Irish -landlords have derived benefit from its adoption. In any case, it has -one advantage. The landlords are less at the mercy of a coalition of -farmers, for the latter, knowing that the bailiff or agent disposes of -all the necessities of cultivation, always dread that their lands may -be taken from them if they ask for too much reduction--a dread that may -be salutary, but which they would not have by the other arrangement. - -Mr. Thompson’s case proves that this weapon has not great efficacy in -actual circumstances. One of his farmers was greatly in arrear; he did -not pay, and showed no intention of paying. His land was contiguous to -some of the land cultivated by Mr. Thompson. The latter thought that -it would be a good opportunity of uniting them; he therefore asked the -farmer to come and see him, and proposed to take them back--adding that -if he were willing to consent to this arrangement, they would give him -a receipt for the rent in arrear. He curtly refused, and said that -he would refer the matter to the Land League. He did so, for, two or -three days later, Mr. Thompson received a notice that if the man were -sent away, the farm would be boycotted. Usually the boycotting of a -farm inflicts great loss upon its landlord because he cannot find a -tenant. But since Mr. Thompson had no intention of seeking one, for he -intended cultivating the land himself, he thought it useless to take -any notice of this threat. The necessary formalities were completed; at -the termination of the legal delay he secured the assistance of a good -number of soldiers and constables, and the eviction took place, without -more stones and mud than usual being thrown at the representatives of -authority. - -Mr. Thompson felt quite proud of the victory he fancied he had gained -over the League. But he soon discovered that his triumph was less -complete than he had at first imagined. One day, in going round the -farm, he noticed that the hay was ready to cut. The same evening he -told four men, who usually worked for him, to take their scythes the -next morning and commence mowing. The men curtly refused, saying that -the League had placarded in the village a prohibition against working -on the land, and they dared not disobey. They were immediately -dismissed. Only it was equally necessary to send away all the other -farm-labourers, for none of them were more docile. He endeavoured to -procure substitutes from the neighbouring villages by offering two or -three times the usual wages; it was impossible to find a single one. - -A short time before these events some of the victims of the League -had recognised that one cause of their weakness was their isolation. -They agreed that the best means of resistance would be to borrow -some of its methods of procedure. _Similia, similibus!_ Resistance, -although impossible to one man, could be made efficacious if they -organised themselves--all the more so, because many of the people -who now submitted would have resisted had they been sure of being -supported. They therefore formed, under the name of the Cork Defence -Union, an association, which was intended to unite all opponents of -the League, and to paralyse by every possible means its most offensive -measure, _i.e._ boycotting. The most important persons in the county, -the Earl of Bandon and Viscount Doneraile, were named president and -vice-president. Numerous adherents joined from all sides, and soon -the Anti-league had command of sufficient resources to enter upon a -campaign. In order to bring those to reason whom the Leaguers of the -neighbourhood found refractory, they had adopted two very efficacious -methods. They forbade the blacksmiths to shoe the horses, and the -owners of machines to thresh the harvest of those whom they had -interdicted. The association imported machines and portable forges, -which, protected by a strong escort of constables and managed by picked -men, scoured the country and worked in spite of all attempts to break -them. For the first time they succeeded in counteracting the League. - -Mr. Thompson was one of the first adherents and even one of the -organisers of the Cork Defence Union. He, therefore, at once thought -of applying to it for help in his embarrassment. The Cork Defence -Union was equal to the circumstances. In two days it supplied twelve -determined mowers from England, who arrived escorted by a picket of -cavalry and a company of infantry. This haymaking was useful for the -instruction of the troops. The rules of the service when in campaign -were strictly observed. Every morning the cavalry reconnoitred the -country, ready to fall back upon the infantry, who were drawn up in -battle array on the edge of the field, and during the night advanced -posts guarded every haystack. Thanks to these wise precautions, and -also to the fact that there was very little rain, the hay was gathered -in at the end of four days. But when making up his accounts Mr. -Thompson found with some bitterness that agriculture is really not -remunerative when it is carried on under military protection. - -However, he found a little consolation in the fact that, questionable -though his own triumph might be, the partisans of the Land League -were greatly troubled by it. In place of material results, he had -secured a moral victory. He saw the proof of this result in the great -number of meetings that immediately took place in the neighbourhood, -meetings attended by two or three thousand people. The parish priest -of Shaunganeen who was president of the local Land League, made a -speech, and expressed himself with the greatest violence. He declared -in allusion to Mr. Thompson that his name “smelt of blood,” and he -made his auditors pass the most energetic resolutions. But here I must -make a few observations; boycotting has become so common in Ireland, -that gradually a kind of jurisprudence has been introduced into its -application. Thus, there is a first degree of boycotting, which is not -applied directly to persons. A refractory landlord finds his produce -or his property interdicted. He can neither let the one nor sell the -other. Usually, he hastens to yield, apologises, pays a fine, and -things remain as they were. But if he still resists, the measures taken -against him begin to assume a more personal character. He can no longer -buy anything that he may require, for whoever sells anything to him, -or renders him any service, is at once excommunicated. Until then the -League takes the whole responsibility of its actions. Its sentences -are often placarded. In every case they are announced in the party -newspapers. It is not until the series of mutilations of cattle, arson, -and attempts at murder, which form the third degree of boycotting, -commences, that it always disclaims all responsibility. Now, until the -memorable day on which Mr. Thompson gathered in his hay, thanks to the -skilful manœuvres of a little “army corps,” only the first degree of -boycotting had been applied to him, and the situation might have been -indefinitely prolonged without any perceptible aggravation. But all -was spoilt, because on the one hand, the League would not submit to a -defeat, and above all, Mr. Thompson was not content to triumph quietly. -He at once wrote a letter, which was published in all the newspapers, -in which, after thanking the Union, he related the events that had -taken place, announced the success of his proceeding, and urged all -those who were in the same position to have recourse to the same means. -He did not know the wasps’ nest he was throwing himself into, but he -soon learnt. The letter appeared on a Saturday. The following day about -two o’clock, he saw a well-meaning friend arrive. He had walked the -three miles that separated the house from the town, in order to warn -him that the League were holding a meeting, and he had great reason -to believe that he was the subject of it. Mr. Thompson, still elated -by his success, would not believe it. But the same evening at seven -o’clock, the constabulary sergeant sent a man to him, warning him to -take precautions, and particularly to be careful to remain indoors, -for serious things might happen during the night. Mr. Thompson, who is -unmarried, lived at that time with one of his sisters, a young girl of -fifteen; two servants, who had been in his service for a long time and -upon whom he thought he could rely, slept in the house. They had an -abundance of arms, and, what was more important, the doors and window -shutters had been lined with sheet iron during the Fenian insurrection. -They hastened to barricade the house, and every one prepared to go to -bed, when towards nine o’clock knocking was heard at the kitchen door. -Armed to the teeth, Mr. Thompson went to it at once. - -“Who is there?” said he. - -“Open, open quickly, for the love of God, your honour,” replied a -stifled voice. - -“Who are you? I warn you that I shall fire.” - -“I am the butcher’s servant, your honour. They came and told Mr. -McCarthy that from to-day he is forbidden to supply your honour with -anything at all. Mr. McCarthy wished that your honour should at least -have time to get straight. He therefore sends two legs of mutton, which -I have brought, but I was much afraid I should never reach the house! -Two men are already standing as sentinels at the gate. I saw them -arrive, and I crept through a gap in the hedge. But for the love of -God, your honour, take your mutton quickly and let me go. I shall go -back by the river, walking in the water, and I hope they won’t see me -leave the park. But then, if they should see me, I can say that I left -the master’s house before he received the order from the League.” - -Mr. Thompson took the mutton and shut the door, feeling very uneasy -at the turn affairs were taking. However, the night passed quietly. -The following morning, well armed, he went out to reconnoitre; on the -side of the road, in front of his gate, he saw two peasants standing, -leaning against a tree; whilst he looked at them he saw two others -arrive from the town. They exchanged a few words with the first two and -then took their places. They were day sentinels who relieved those who -had watched through the night. - -He went towards the outhouses. The yard men had already left some time -before, but the household had up till then continued in his service. -Every one had disappeared during the night. The two old servants who -had slept in the house were the only ones left, and they were quite -drunk already, but swore that they were ready to die for their good -master, who found himself obliged to feed his horses, for they were not -in a state to do it. - -“That is how my boycotting began,” said Mr. Thompson as he ended his -recital; “and now it has lasted six years!” he added philosophically. -“But here we are!” - -The train had just stopped before a small isolated station in the -middle of some fields, for the town is between two and three miles -from the station. Shaunganeen, like Castle Connell, has had its days -of splendour. It is, however, one of the few localities in this -country which has not been the capital of a kingdom, but a saint with -a very complicated name settled here towards the seventh century, -and attracted, says history, by the fertility of the soil and the -favourable dispositions of the inhabitants, he founded an abbey -which soon became celebrated. Only a few rather fine ruins remain of -the monastery, and the city, which, until 1787 was represented in -Parliament by two members, is now only a large and rather miserable -town. The station yard presented an interesting spectacle. In the -centre an old coachman was standing holding with one hand a very -handsome cob harnessed to a dog-cart, and with the other a grey donkey -harnessed to a small cart. The first of these vehicles was intended for -us, the second for our luggage. Half a dozen urchins in wonderful rags -were standing round contemplating the group, with their hands in their -pockets; and there, calm and serious, a gigantic constable stood on the -quay, a switch in one hand, benevolently standing to be admired by the -population. - -The old servant greeted us with such a lugubrious gesture of the head, -and his whole appearance denoted such extreme dejection, that I saw Mr. -Thompson turn visibly paler. - -“Good heavens, Tim!” he exclaimed, hastening towards him, “has anything -fresh happened?” - -“Ah, your honour! Has anything happened? Yes, something has happened!” - -“But what?” - -“Your honour, when leaving, told Miss Thompson to write to Dublin to -order beer and whisky, but she has forgotten to do it. The day before -yesterday she sent me to Tom Sweeney, the tavern-keeper, to get some. -He refused to give it! And since yesterday there has not been a drop of -whisky in this house!” - -“This is very serious,” said Mr. Thompson, by whose side I was already -installed in the dog-cart, “but I dreaded something worse. Tim, you can -follow us with the luggage.” - -“Monsieur,” he continued, laughing, “you were kind enough to accept the -hospitality of an unfortunately boycotted household; but you see, you -will have to share some privations. However, I can promise you some -bread for this evening. There is not a baker, within a round of ten -leagues, who will supply us with bread, but we have a kind neighbour -who is willing from time to time to give us some of his provisions. -He brings it himself across the park by night. We dare not ask him -very often because he risks being shot on every journey; but we shall -have some to-day. On the other hand, you will not have any meat; it -comes to us from Dublin, about forty miles away, and I have not had -time to write for it. Usually we do without it, because it has to be -fetched from the station, for no messenger will bring it to us, and our -household is so much reduced that we avoid errands as much as possible. -We therefore content ourselves with biscuits, preserves, and the -produce of the poultry yard.” - -“But, dear sir,” I replied, “believe me, I am too glad of your kind -invitation not to be very grateful for it, even if you could only give -me a potato and a glass of water. But let me speak freely to you. I -quite admit that the butcher, for instance, makes different excuses in -order to avoid supplying your cook with meat, but if you went yourself, -and, with the money in your hand, you asked him to sell you a leg or -a loin of mutton, it appears to me very difficult to believe that he -would dare to refuse to give it to you.” - -“Will you make the experiment with me?” - -“I dare not ask you to do so, but really nothing would give me greater -pleasure.” - -We had just reached the market-place, which was surrounded with shops. -At the door of one amongst them, hung neck downwards two magnificent -half oxen; evidently this was the butcher’s. On the pavement stood -a group of beggars and vagabonds of all ages, looking with famished -eyes at all the good things displayed in front of the shop on a marble -table. Mr. Thompson drove across to that side. - -“Boys,” said he, stopping his horse five or six steps away from the -group, “which of you will earn sixpence by holding my horse?” - -An unlucky urchin of eight or ten years old at once jumped at the -reins. But he had not time to seize them before a vigorous kick reached -him in that part of his body which was not facing the horse. At the -same time a threatening voice addressed five or six words to him in -Irish; he seemed quite able to comprehend the second warning, for he at -once returned to the pavement, energetically rubbing the place where he -had received the first. No one else stirred. - -“You see, it begins well,” said Mr. Thompson in a low voice. - -I was becoming deeply interested. A cart stood there unharnessed. We -descended from the carriage, fastened our horse to its wheel, and -entered the shop. - -Quite at the back of it, to the right behind the counter, we saw a very -pretty girl of seventeen or eighteen, very elegant, with small curls -on her forehead, her well-fitting black bodice showing off her already -fully-formed figure to great advantage, a red ribbon tied like a dog’s -collar round her neck; on the whole showing a very pretty specimen of -Irish brunettes. - -“Good morning,” said Mr. Thompson politely. “I did not know that -Shaunganeen had the happiness of possessing such a pretty butcher; I -have never had the pleasure of seeing you before. Have you been here -long?” - -The young lady was evidently delighted. She smiled upon us both in the -most engaging way. - -“Oh, sir,” she replied, “my father, Mr. McCarthy, only took me from the -convent three days ago; my mother is unwell, and I am therefore taking -charge of the shop.” - -“It was a very good idea of Mr. McCarthy’s! Any one would come here -only to see you! Tell me, you have some fine legs of mutton there. Will -you sell me one?” - -“Why, of course, sir, they are there to be sold! Here, take this one, I -am sure it is very tender.” - -“Oh! the moment you recommend it I will take it at once.” I was -triumphant. Mr. Thompson looked much astonished. - -“Well, Miss McCarthy,” he continued, to hide his surprise, “you will -send it home to me before this evening, if you please.” - -“Certainly, sir! Will you give me your name, please, sir?” - -“What! don’t you know me?” - -“No, sir; I have only just left the convent.” - -“Ah, very well. I am Mr. Thompson.” - -“Oh, you are Mr. Thompson of ---- Lodge?” - -“Yes, I am Mr. Thompson of ---- Lodge.” - -The poor girl, red as a peony, looked with a terrified air at the fine -leg of mutton she kept turning in her hands, as though it were already -on the spit, to give herself courage. - -“The truth is, sir,” she began, almost in tears, “I cannot send it to -you, I made a mistake, I forgot that it is already sold!” - -“Very well,” said Mr. Thompson, “I understand,” and he immediately left -the shop. - -I relate the scene word for word as it happened. I could only declare -myself vanquished. Decidedly the accounts I have heard are not -exaggerated. However, Mr. Thompson declares that, at all events, so far -as he is concerned, things are improving a little. At first he could -not get his horses shod unless the Government sent him a portable forge -from the artillery. Afterwards he discovered a farrier living at L----, -several miles away. I asked myself what the shoes of horses, which had -to go many miles before they reached a forge, ought to be made of? -Under the circumstances, I would rather have had them without shoes. -But a few weeks ago another farrier, who lives only nine or ten miles -away, sent him word that he would shoe them provided the horses came to -him at night. - -“And therefore,” he continued, “Tim’s story rather surprises me, for -several times lately they have consented to supply beer for the house. -Tim says that it was refused to him to-day. Something new must have -happened.” - -At this moment we passed an individual adorned with long whiskers and -a moustache, who, on seeing us, immediately looked the other way, with -much affectation. - -“Oh,” said Mr. Thompson, “I understand it all now. I have the honour of -introducing you to our member of Parliament, the Honourable Mr. X----, -beer and spirit merchant, and naturally an outrageous Land Leaguer. -Since he attained this honour, one of his nephews keeps his shop. The -nephew is rather indifferent, we can manage him. But it appears as -though the uncle has come to see his constituents, he wishes to get -a little popularity at my expense, and poor Tim must go without his -whisky.” - ----- Lodge, which we reached in a few minutes, is a pretty house -situated in the middle of a fair-sized park, crossed by a river. Under -the windows of the house it forms a large piece of water covered with -water lilies, and shaded by superb trees, on which a great number of -herons were nesting, making an incredible noise. Two young girls of -sixteen and seventeen stopped their game of lawn-tennis when they saw -us, and ran to greet their brother, with whom they, were passing their -holidays. Naturally, we at once told them about the incident at the -butcher’s. The young ladies severely criticised pretty Miss McCarthy’s -conduct. But, in reality, in spite of their genuine hatred for Mr. -Parnell, it appeared to me that boycottage was not one of the least -attractions of their sojourn here. It entails a Swiss Family Robinson -kind of life which is full of amusing incidents. - -My kind host hastened to do the honours of ---- Lodge. He first showed -me his farm. Since he can now only employ the men provided for him by -the Cork Union he has naturally been forced to alter his method of -culture in order to reduce the number of hands as much as possible. -This gave him the idea of trying the ensilage, which has been so much -used amongst us for many years, but which is still quite unknown in -this part of Ireland. Only he had to struggle against a difficulty -peculiar to the country. The sub-soil is so damp that at a depth of -five or six feet water is found everywhere. He was therefore obliged -to undertake considerable works before he could render his pits -water-tight. He had some idea of trying ensilage above the soil. I -should like to say a few words about this arrangement, which appeared -to me extremely curious. - -On the ground, side by side, were laid fifteen or twenty oak joists, -furnished at each end with a screw ring, to which an iron pulley is -attached. The hay is packed on this floor whilst it is still damp, -just as it comes from the meadow. When the pile is twenty foot high -they fix the end of a long steel cord to one of the extremities of -the first beam, the cord passes across the stack into the pulley at -the other extremity, returns to that of the second beam, and so on -across the stack. In our navy we call this a _passeresse_ (a brail). -When the whole stack is thus supported they apply a wheel purchase or -a tourniquet to the end of the chain. The cord sliding through the -pulleys produces so much compression that the height of the stack -diminishes by one-half. This pressure, which is about 200 lbs. to the -square foot, so completely prevents the entrance of any air to the -interior, that fermentation is produced in exactly the same way as -when the hay is in a pit. The external surface is sacrificed, but by -plunging the hand in the interior, we find that below the crust, which -is only from six to eight inches in thickness, the quality of the -ensilage is quite as good as that of the pits. It seems that the whole -apparatus only costs 18_l._ I am quite determined to offer one to the -first of my farmers who asks me to rebuild his barn. - -After lunch Mr. Thompson again harnessed his dog-cart in order to -show me the neighbourhood. It appears that we are in the most fertile -part of Ireland. And in fact the land is very superior to any other -that I have seen at present. However, even here, agriculture has been -unremunerative for a long time. And therefore all the landowners are -endeavouring to restrict it as much as possible in order to increase -the cattle breeding, which is the only thing now likely to produce good -results. But to do this it is necessary to reduce the number of farms, -and this exasperates the population; here, in fact, as elsewhere, -fathers are quite determined to divide their farms amongst their -children, and this be it understood without the landlord’s authority. -They can, therefore, scarcely produce enough food for themselves from -the land. - -All great undertakings succeed. Horse-breeding produces extremely good -results. The best horses in Ireland come from here. Every moment as we -drive along the highway we see fine brood mares, which, on hearing the -carriage, rush at full speed from the other end of the pastures to see -us pass. We went into two or three farms to look at the colts; they -were playing with the children in the yards. Mr. Thompson described a -little scene to me that he had lately witnessed. He had been to see a -filly that had been recommended to him, and that he wished to buy for -his sister. - -“Ah! it is a pretty creature, your honour,” said the farmer, leading -his visitor up to the animal which was lying at the foot of a tree; -“and besides, it is just the horse for a lady to hunt.” - -“We shall see,” replied Mr. Thompson, continuing to advance; “is she -good tempered?” - -“Ah, your honour, is she good tempered! She is as quiet as a lamb! My -daughter Kathleen will tell you so, they play together all day!” - -Kathleen, a fine handsome girl of sixteen or seventeen, who listened to -the conversation with great interest, made an affirmative gesture when -thus appealed to as a witness. - -“Really,” said Mr. Thompson, laughingly turning towards her; “do you -ride her?” - -“You shall see.” - -And the young girl sprang upon the mare’s back as she rose to her feet. -The frightened filly started off at a gallop. The girl standing, her -hair flying in the wind, her arms stretched out to aid her balance, -her body leaning forward, her little bare feet clinging to the filly’s -back, allowed herself to be carried round like a circus rider. She -remained there during three or four rounds, and then feeling herself -about to fall, she sprang lightly to the ground and returned laughing -to her father quite proud of her freak. What a pretty subject for a -picture! - -Amongst us, every where, except in Normandy and in a few country houses -in other parts of France, the stable arrangements are deplorable. Here, -on the contrary, even in the most miserable farms that we visited, -they are wonderfully complete for securing the well-being of the -horses. Loose boxes are very general. The use of straw as litter would -be very difficult and very dear, since we may say that scarcely any -wheat is grown; it is always replaced by a mossy turf, which is first -thoroughly dried and is then reduced to powder by the stamping of the -horses. This litter appears excellent in every respect. It forms very -soft standing for the feet, and a good bed; there is no dust, and -cleanliness is secured by a simple stroke of the rake. Besides, the -turf once reduced to a pulverised state is so absorbent that one cannot -detect the faintest smell. I noticed that the other night at Sir Croker -Barrington’s, and I have been struck with it again to-day when visiting -a stallion’s stable. One thing appears very singular to me; I am told -that all the turf used is imported from Germany, being found superior -to anything in this country for the purpose. The loss is so little that -in spite of the money spent in carriage the expenses are very small. -There are many places in France where turf is most abundant, but I have -never yet seen any used in this way in our own country. - -In the villages and on the roads we continually pass long lines of -horses fastened one behind the other and led by a man who rides the -leader. They are returning from the fair at Cahirmee which ended -to-day; it is the most important in the south of Ireland. The farmers -tell us that they saw seven or eight French dealers there. They -ought to have done a good business, for the sales were bad, only -weight-carrying hunters fetched a good price. A stout priest passed -in his cassock, his legs encased in black leggings, mounted on a good -cob, and complacently eyeing a superb filly which a ragged urchin was -leading in front of him. He was pointed out to us as the victor of the -day. His filly won the first prize at the show. He refused 250_l._ for -her. - -These prices are quite exceptional. However, I think that this crisis -is less felt here than with us. Horses were shown to me that had been -sold for 90_l._ or 100_l._ which would certainly not have fetched the -same money at the last fair at Guibray; but on an average the carriage -horses are not at all better than those we see in the Normandy markets. -On the other hand, saddle horses are certainly superior and are yet -sold very cheaply. Mr. Thompson took me to see a lady, who showed -us a very handsome little mare, five years old, a wonderful jumper, -beautifully groomed, which had been just brought back from the fair -unsold, although only 45_l._ were asked for her. How small the world -is! We entered the lady’s house quite accidentally, and after five -minutes’ conversation we discovered that we had already met twenty -years before, when she was quite a little girl and I was a middy. Our -meeting had taken place at Siam. - -Every one confirms what I already suspected, that horse-breeding is -in its decadence here as well as in England. Formerly the English -were greatly in advance of us in rearing carriage horses. Now they -have nothing equal to our Anglo-Norman horse, and of this I have just -received a most convincing proof. The Americans are now endeavouring -to create a race of carriage horses in their country, that are to be -elegant and yet a little taller and stouter than their present breeds. -They come to Caen to purchase their studs. A train of thirty-five was -sent over from there quite recently. If they had formed the same wish -thirty or forty years ago, they would not for one instant have dreamed -of seeking the horses they required from us. Why have we remained -behind England for so long? In order to have good horses we must -have good pastures, a good climate, and above all the assurance of a -remunerative sale. Now, our pasturage is quite equal to theirs, and our -climate is infinitely better; if then our breeders could not compete -with theirs it is only because they did not obtain a sufficiently -high price for their productions. I have a very clever friend with -whom I have often talked over this subject, and who clearly explains -why English horse raising is so much more flourishing than our own. -He asserts that we have no reason to blush for this retrospective -inferiority, and that, on the contrary, we may feel proud of it, for -it proceeded from a purely moral cause. The superiority of English -horse-breeding was, according to him, entirely due to the extraordinary -way in which the English manage their love affairs. Every one knows -that, during the whole of the last and even during the early part -of the present century, English ladies were extremely frivolous. -In France, when a marquise selected a lover, it never occurred to -them that it was necessary to scour the high roads together in order -to assure each other of their affection. On the contrary, when an -Englishwoman felt that she could not offer a prolonged resistance to -some gallant colonel, she did not throw herself into his arms, but -into a post-chaise drawn by the four best horses money would procure -in the neighbourhood. Custom exacted that, as soon as the husband had -discovered to which point of the compass his guilty wife and her lover -had fled, he should also procure four horses, equally good, for their -pursuit; and thus as the mischievous little god, who is so sedentary -with us, only appeared in English homes with the attributes of a -postilion, one sees at a glance the connection between these strange -customs and the production of light carriage horses. Lovers are always -liberal, and if those who followed them wished for any chance of -stopping their flight, they were obliged to equal them in that respect. -Post-masters who had the reputation of owning excellent horses made -their fortunes at once. Lovers came even from a distance to elope from -their neighbourhood. Competition intervened, and they became willing to -pay any price for a pair of horses which could secure a large custom. -Moralists should deplore these things; horse-breeders can only regret -them. If the Norfolk trotters acquired such high reputations, was it -because the ladies of that county lamentably compromised their own? - -All this ceased with the accession of Queen Victoria. England became -virtuous. No woman dared to elope, for she knew she would not be -received at Court afterwards; the postilions became stout, the old -trotters became broken-winded and were not replaced; the breeders, -reduced like their colleagues in France to the custom of the public -coaches, soon discovered that they could not afford to make the same -sacrifices as before, and their productions degenerated. Have they -any chance of seeing their ancient prosperity restored? It is very -improbable. With advancing years her majesty has ceased to watch -over the English ladies so carefully, and it is said that their moral -standard is considerably lower. If we may believe some recent law -reports, they can enter into elopements with as much spirit as their -grandmothers. But they no longer have recourse to a post-chaise, -and this return to ancient custom can now benefit only railways and -steamers. This is my learned friend’s theory. I have tried my best -to explain it in the interest of science. But I leave him all the -responsibility of it and all the honour. - -Mr. Thompson exaggerated greatly when he spoke to me of the privations -I should be obliged to submit to when sharing the life of a boycotted -landlord. In default of the leg of mutton which he had been forced -to leave in Miss McCarthy’s rather red hands, rabbits from the park, -poultry from the yard, and vegetables from the garden, furnished -materials for a dinner that an old _cordon bleu_, who had remained -faithful to his master even in boycottage, rendered excellent. I -said the other day when speaking of the manner in which Irishwomen -prepare their husbands’ meals, that I believed they have little taste -for cooking; I perhaps spoke rather too hastily. Their taste is not -sufficiently developed, but it exists. This is another good side to -the national character; I even think that if the nations were to be -arranged in the order of their culinary aptitudes, the Irish would -take a very honourable rank. Professors affirm that it is to them we -owe that excellent combination our fathers appreciated under the name -of haricot mutton, and that ignorant practitioners of our epoch call -_navarin_. It seems that from the earliest ages this dish has been -known in Ireland as Irish stew. According to the same authorities, the -recipe was brought to St. Germain by King James’s cooks, who took -refuge in France with their master after the disaster of the Boyne; -and that by diffusing it amongst us they acknowledged our country’s -hospitality. If this be true, here is a new instance of the consoling -truth, that a kind action is never lost. - -Perhaps, however, to be absolutely impartial we should temper this -praise by some criticism. Irishmen are volatile and little observant. -These faults, which injure their politics, have also a regrettable -influence over their cooking. Thus the affinities, secret, yet -so close, between a duck and turnips seems to have escaped their -notice. During my sojourn in Ireland I was able to prove that the -country produces numbers of excellent ducks, and an abundance of most -succulent turnips. But the palmipede always appeared separated from the -vegetable, and I never was lucky enough to find united on the same dish -these two elements, although, when combined, nature has rendered them -so rich in gastronomic delights. - -An organisation so powerful and complicated as the Land League -necessarily appears under very different aspects when one studies it -in the different centres where it works. At Dublin I saw some of the -men who composed the managing body, and they spoke to me about the -general direction of the movement. At Kenmare I found it weakened by -a combination of circumstances which contributed, if not to paralyse -it, at least to prevent it from pushing things to extremities. With -Lord Cloncurry and in the neighbourhood of Ballinacourty the situation -was more strained already. There the League found favourable soil, its -evolution was able to pass through each of its successive phases; I am -now, at this moment, in a fully boycotted county. I wished to ascertain -the state of feeling amongst a population subject to such a rule, and -particularly that of the secondary personages who are charged with -carrying out the instructions of the directing committee. Mr. Thompson -gave me every facility for this work, by this evening confiding to -me as I was leaving him, a thick bundle of documents relative to his -boycottage--a bundle which he wished to carry to my room himself, for -he was unwilling I should ascend the staircase alone. And, indeed, -this staircase is an interesting monument. Four years ago it was being -repaired, the workmen had taken off the balustrade on the very day the -boycotting was declared. From that time it has been impossible to get -it replaced! - -It would be very difficult to deny that the movement is Socialistic, -if not in its end, at least by the means it employs for its success. -Evidently the principal leaders have deliberately made up their minds. -But the others, do they know what they are doing? I do not believe so, -for here is an extract from a speech pronounced at the great meeting -which I alluded to above, the one that assembled when Mr. Thompson sent -to the Cork Union to get his grass mown. - -“What the Land League requires,” said the orator, “is to succeed in -making the State dispossess the landlords in consideration of a fair -indemnity, in order that afterwards the State may give the land to -the tenants, making them repay the advances and the interest by means -of successive annuities. Some people say that acting in this way is -Socialism, but the Irish protest against such accusations. If we were -Socialists, we should agree with Gambetta, that faithless man who -spoke against us, when, throughout Europe, we had only friends. We -should agree with the Parisian communists! those wretches who know -neither justice nor virtue, who dyed their hands with the blood of an -archbishop! (prolonged groans!) who were not ashamed to destroy the -monument erected to celebrate their fathers’ victories! We have no -more sympathy for them than they have for us! (Immense acclamations.) -No! we are not Socialists because we demand the dispossession of the -landlords! If this idea were Socialistic, it would not be approved of -by the newspaper published under the shadow of the Vatican.” - -The speaker was Father McCarthy, the parish priest of a neighbouring -village; but now here are the expressions of one of his colleagues, -Father Sheehy:-- - -“Have not all these people, the Thompsons, the X----s, retained all the -best land of the country for already too long a time, my friends? And -what is left for all of you?--the right to go and die of hunger in the -workhouse. - -“The office in which Mr. Thompson receives his slaves resembles a -prison. - -“He speaks to his tenants through his office-wicket, for he is a coward -who has not courage to look them in the face.” - -Now it is Mr. W. H. O’Sullivan’s turn. Mr. O’Sullivan is the -spirit-dealer, the member of Parliament whom we met to-day. - -“I am going to read you some clauses from the lease they are trying to -impose upon some of the tenants in the neighbourhood. This is a very -interesting document, judge for yourselves: - -“First, it is stipulated that the tenant cannot plough either of -his fields without the landlord’s written permission. (Groans.) It -then says that each year the farmer must lay down in grass a certain -portion of the land which is given him in plough. (Violent groans.) The -next clause forbids the tenant to sell his straw or hay. Everything -should be consumed on the farm. (Explosion of murmurs.) Then come the -following items [bonds]:--The tenant must preserve all the buildings -given to him in their present condition, he is forbidden to let any of -the outbuildings as dwelling-houses; he must keep and give them up in -good repair; lastly, the taxes are all to be paid by him.” (Prolonged -murmurs, cries, and howls.) - -Oh! French landowners, unlucky brethren! Who amongst you, on consulting -his lease, will not find, one after the other, all these clauses? When -you discuss them with your tenants, does conscience warn you that you -are committing an infamous act? I am a little reassured on the point, -because for the last three or four years, the Government, which is the -very essence of morality, since it is Republican, sends us every summer -agricultural professors, who recommend us to transform all our lands -into meadows. - -After the meeting, Fathers McCarthy and McSheehy probably went home -with Mr. O’Sullivan, and, whilst taking a glass of something on this -honourable merchant’s counter, the three orators mutually congratulated -themselves on their success. They had reason to do so in some respects. -As rhetorical amplifications their speeches were pretty good. Only -when they assert that they have nothing in common with the Socialists, -is it wise to tell two or three thousand peasants, all more or less -doing badly in money matters, that their poverty is the result of Mr. -Thompson and others detaining for such a long time the land that ought -to be given to them? - -I have only to continue reading the bundle to ascertain the effect -produced. The newspaper cuttings are arranged in chronological order; -unfortunately, they are not all dated. I cannot, therefore, give the -dates quite precisely, but evidently very little time had elapsed -between this meeting and the facts stated here. - -This is what first happened at New Pallas. There is a farm about half a -mile from the railway station, from which a man named Bourke had been -sent away. The landlord could not find a new tenant; but since, every -night, men ravaged his land, he demanded protection from the police. -The authorities decided that they would erect a block-house, plated -with sheet-iron, in which they could place a permanent garrison of five -constables. The farm buildings were not sufficiently strong for their -security. - -The sheet-iron arrived at the station, but it was impossible to get -it carried to the farm; no one in the country would undertake to do -it. It was decided to obtain an artillery waggon from Dublin, and -the accounts which reached the authorities denoted so much popular -excitement that it appeared necessary to send an escort also. Half a -battery of artillery started for the estate; a squadron of the 7th -Hussars, one hundred and fifty men of the 9th Foot, and a detachment of -constables, brought the effective total to five hundred men. They all -met at the station after a convergent movement, which did great credit -to the military skill of the chief of the expedition, and succeeded -in transporting an iron hut, that filled one cart, five-eighths of a -mile! The Government newspapers loudly congratulated themselves on the -success of the operation. - -During this time a permanent garrison was established at Mr. -Thompson’s. It at first consisted of seventy-five men, but after -some time the numbers were reduced. They were not too much bored, -for they had plenty to do. Every morning, four men and one corporal, -all well armed, were ordered on duty to escort the milkmaid when she -went to milk the cows. The detachment which proceeded to the station -for letters and parcels, was commanded by a sergeant, and flanked the -whole way. It was exactly like a besieged town. Still, the Land League -sentinels never left the gate, and on their side watched with the -greatest vigilance. Nevertheless, once or twice the blockade was run. A -reporter of the _Daily News_, who came expressly from England to keep -the readers of his paper well informed about the operations of the -siege, thus describes it:-- - -“_December 25th, Christmas Day._--Yesterday evening, great excitement. -Darkness had fallen upon us, when the dogs commenced to bark, and -suddenly we saw a woman mysteriously issue from a clump of trees and -approach the door, marching so softly that one might have fancied her -a ghost! She carried hidden beneath her shawl an enormous Christmas -cake, still hot, which a kind neighbour had sent us, but, naturally, I -must not mention his name. We had obtained this windfall through his -noticing, as he passed the gate, that the sentinels’ watch was not -nearly so keen as usual thanks, probably, to the numerous libations -they had indulged in whilst celebrating the festival. He at once took -advantage of the fact to entrust this brave little woman with the -commission she so skilfully executed. I hope she was not seen during -her retreat, for neither she nor her husband would then be able to -remain in the country.” - -It was on Christmas Day, 1880, that the _Daily News_ reporter wrote -this letter. From the 13th July, 1886 the Land League has ceased -placing sentinels at Mr. Thompson’s gate, but the boycotting is still -strong enough to prevent Miss McCarthy from selling him a leg of -mutton. There is an improvement, but the improvement progresses very -slowly. - -I do not only find newspaper cuttings in the bundle. It also contains a -file of letters; they are all signed “Captain Moonlight.” But this is -a generic name, for the letters evidently come from different people. -The Irish revolutionists are not revolutionists like ours. With us -every generation insists on working in its own way. In Ireland, on the -contrary, they are careful to conform exactly to the old customs. The -stock-in-trade of accessories of every conspiracy that respects itself -still includes the mask, the dagger, and the blunderbuss which are -completely out of fashion amongst us since the time of the _Carbonari_ -of the Restoration. Anonymous letters are one of their dearest -traditions. Landowners are continually receiving them. They invariably -enumerate the different measures which will be adopted to hasten the -unfortunate recipient’s departure from this life. It is imperative that -a little explanatory drawing should accompany the text, because they -must guard against the possibility of the victim being illiterate. This -necessity, imposed by custom, is evidently embarrassing even to the -conspirators. It is a stumbling-block to those Captains “Moonlight” who -have no talent for drawing. One of Mr. Thompson’s correspondents had, -however, found an ingenious method of evading the difficulty. Here is a -description of one of these documents. I am looking at it while I write: - -At the head of the sheet of paper there is a drawing belonging to that -_naïve_ school which amongst us is especially reserved for illustrating -Latin dictionaries with _pierrot pendu_ (hanging clowns). However, we -can easily distinguish that the first drawing represents a gun, with -its bayonet. But below there is a combination of strokes and blots -which it is absolutely impossible to make anything of. Happily the -artist, obeying a sentiment of praiseworthy modesty, and understanding -the deficiency of his talent, has put an explanatory note at the side -of each vignette. By the side of the first there is in parentheses -“gun;” at the right of the second, “bombshell.” The text at least, in -default of other merit, had that of conciseness. It only consisted of -two lines-- - - - “Beware of the above, lads! - Ireland for the Irish!” - - -The author was probably proud of his work. However, we must own -that the general effect would be better if the drawings were more -intelligible. If I had the honour of being admitted into the councils -of the Land League I should suggest that instead of relying upon the -artistic sense of inferior agents, they should distribute amongst -them papers already engraved with pictures of coffins, cross-bones, -guns, gibbets, and bombshells, since they appear to be the necessary -accessories of a style of literature from which the League evidently -expects great results, since it encourages it so much. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -CONCLUSION. - - -Here I must end these extracts from my travelling diary. Of what use -could it be to continue noting day by day all that I saw in Ireland? -Besides, the inquiry, summary as it is, to which I devoted myself, has -left me with an impression of profound melancholy. Every one knows the -traps in which one sees the captive mice beating against the wire that -ornaments one of the extremities, and in their desperate efforts to -obtain their freedom they thrust and wound themselves against the bars -of their cage. On this side they see the light; here they fancy they -have the best chance of escape. They can never succeed, for the door -lies exactly at the other end. - -The poor Irish--so interesting, so sympathetic--are a little like them. -They, too, are exhausting their strength in despairing efforts to -escape from a misery that is only too real; but for them, too, the way -out is not on the side where they are seeking it. - -When we see, on one hand, the great fermentation going on in the lower -classes of the population, and, on the other, the Government utterly -incapable of restoring order, one is tempted to believe that a bloody -revolution is about to break out. This seems to be the only logical -solution which the situation admits of. Evidently, so they say, the -heads of this powerful organisation which binds the whole country, wish -to break out; they form their lists and keep their followers in working -order. The daily skirmishes which one hears perpetually discussed can -have but that end; they keep the hand in whilst waiting for action. -As soon as a favourable opportunity offers, they will call the whole -population of five million souls to arms; they are only waiting for the -signal. An immense popular uprising will take place immediately, and if -the English rule is to be re-established in the country, it will only -be after a long and bloody war. - -This reasoning appears well founded, because in Greece, in Poland, and -everywhere that a conquering people have been unable to assimilate with -the conquered, the same results have always followed. I am, however, -quite convinced that it is absolutely false as regards Ireland. In -every son of Erin there is the making of a conspirator. At all times -conspiracy has been an element where they have been as much at their -ease as fish in water. But amongst them a conspirator finds great -difficulty in transforming himself into a rebel. Why is this? I cannot -tell. It is certainly not for want of courage. As soldiers, the Irish -have no need to prove their abilities. And yet we have only to consult -their national history to perceive that of all the rebellions they -have attempted not one has been serious. Towards the end of the last -century, when Brittany and Vendée rose against the Republic, they -had no resources of any kind, and they had to deal with a military -power that had routed all the armies in Europe. Six months later they -placed 80,000 men in the field, who, at first armed with sticks, used -them with such effect that at the end of a few days they were all -armed with guns taken from their enemies. For some years they held in -check all the forces that were sent against them. Towards the same -date the Irish made several attempts at insurrection. One of them was -even aided by a detachment of French troops being landed. The English -sent very insignificant troops to oppose them. Yet after a few days -they had overcome the insurgents without the latter being able to -form a military force capable of resisting one battalion of infantry -in the open field. If the Irish showed themselves so powerless when -circumstances were all in their favour, what chance of success have -they now? - -But in order that a nation should throw itself headlong into a -rebellion of this kind, it must have a definite object in view. Greece -and Poland were determined to regain their independence, and knew what -they would do with this independence if they succeeded in winning -it. Now, unfortunately, it is very different with the Irish. Their -political men are quite aware of the facts of the case. Independent -Ireland is an impossibility. - -First of all, whilst England possesses a soldier or a crown she will -never consent to the separation. It is a question of life or death for -her. Imagine a war with France and Ireland allied, what would become of -her? - -But there is another reason, and this is an economic one, why the Irish -themselves will never push matters to extremities. They know perfectly -well that the day after their independence was acknowledged, they must -either conquer England or else throw themselves upon her mercy. How -could they support a separate State? They would require money to live -with, and this money can only be found by selling their produce. Now -if the English can buy the cattle, pigs and butter they require from -all parts of the globe, the Irish themselves can only sell the cattle, -pigs, and butter, which are their sole produce, in England; for they -could hardly aspire to sending their pigs to Chicago or their butter to -Isigny. They would be absolutely at England’s mercy. - -As long therefore as they cannot transport their country some hundred -miles further west, the Irish must be content and resign themselves to -the fact that Ireland can only be an appendage to England. Equality -between the two countries cannot exist. If the Irish succeeded in -conquering England the seat of government might be at Dublin; the -greater part of the taxes paid by the English would be spent there, -in the same way that a large portion of Irish taxes are now spent -in London. But until they feel strong enough to bring this great -enterprise to a successful issue, they must bear their share of a -situation which, after all, is not worse than that of the inhabitants -of Bordeaux or Dijon, whose taxes are in a great measure spent in Paris. - -It may be objected that without going as far as actual separation, -which, in fact, no one asks for, because it is manifestly out of -the question, they may ask, as Mr. Gladstone does, for a relative -separation. - -I have already stated at some length and several times in the course -of this work, the reasons which lead me to believe that even with this -amelioration a separation would be disastrous for Ireland; it would -result in all capital being withdrawn from Ireland, for it is now -almost exclusively in English hands. - -In my opinion Mr. Gladstone has been very wrong in encouraging the -Irish to persevere in this absolutely false idea, that all their -misfortunes are due to political causes, whilst in reality the terrible -crisis they are passing through is only a result of the economic -evolution which is taking place all over the world. - -The burning question in this country which dominates every other is the -question of land ownership. Ireland is a country of small cultivators. -Let us first examine the question on the theoretical side. - -Originally in all societies the land belonged to whoever would -cultivate and enclose it; since it had no value no one enclosed more -than he could cultivate himself, that is, very little, for their -implements were very primitive. Small estates were therefore formed -by the mere force of circumstances. In some countries, in France -for instance, at least in a considerable portion of the territory, -small estates have been preserved to the present time. This is very -fortunate, for, from a social point of view, it is the most perfect -system, and wherever it is possible to uphold it by law no hesitation -should be shown about doing so. - -Unfortunately from an economic point of view the system is utterly -condemned. Agriculture is an industry like any other--one is always -obliged to repeat this fact, because when one alludes to it this -evident truth always seems forgotten. Now, in the present day, all -industries are concentrated. Factories diminish in number but increase -in importance. Those who cannot or will not submit to this necessity, -disappear. A farm is a factory of meat and corn. Now, if all other -things were equal, a large farm would always produce more economically -than a small one, because, as a rule, its expenses are less, and it has -a more perfect apparatus for doing the necessary work. The smaller ones -must therefore disappear. - -And they are disappearing everywhere, even amongst us. In my opinion -this is not even doubtful. The other day M. Yves Guyot asserted it in -the Chamber of Deputies. He was right; property in France is becoming -concentrated; we have but to look round us to be convinced of the fact. -I may be answered that according to the returns of the tax-collectors -the number of properties does not seem to be decreasing. This argument -is not worth anything. How many landowners are there possessing -property in fifteen or twenty communes? How many are there who, having -by degrees bought ten or twelve lots in the same commune, ever gave -themselves the trouble of uniting them in one return? The truth is that -in all agricultural countries the peasants have ceased to buy land, and -they are selling it wherever they find a great landowner willing to buy -it. I, of course, except the vine districts from this statement. - -The same phenomenon is noticeable in America, and still more -conspicuously. The Government does everything in its power to form and -maintain small properties; it distributes land to the emigrants by lots -of 160 acres, forbidding them to sell it under five years. As soon as -the five years are over the emigrants hasten to sell their lands, which -are never seriously cultivated until twenty or forty lots are united in -the same hands. Every American economist observes this tendency; it is -universal. Wherever the laws do not intervene large estates are rapidly -absorbing the smaller ones, because the small ones cannot compete -with the large, and if the laws intervene they are only efficacious -in diminishing production. Except in a few privileged countries small -farms must therefore disappear. Can Ireland boast of being one of -the fortunate exceptions? Most evidently not! Then why create small -farms in Ireland? or rather, since they already exist with all their -drawbacks, why endeavour to maintain them by founding small estates, -as the Land League is trying to do? It is aiming at impossibilities, -for they can only succeed by destroying steamers, railways, and -agricultural machinery all over the world. - -We will now resume the discussion at the point where we left it. I -said that only two systems of agriculture are known--the small and -the great. Facility of transport and the perfection we have reached -in agricultural tools have rendered small cultivation impossible -nearly everywhere. Only the great remains. Let us now see under what -conditions it is working. It requires great capital; besides, it -evidently, like every other industry, has more chance of success when -it is directed by competent men. Now the most competent men not being -always those who have the most capital, the countries where agriculture -would flourish best would be those, of course if all other things -were equal, where a combination had been discovered which placed -large capital at the disposal of the most competent men--those, to -use a modern expression, where agricultural credit would be the best -organised. - -This question has attracted great attention. It is very difficult to -solve, because no combination can be discovered which ensures that -the capital directed into agricultural channels would find sufficient -securities and interest. But the real reason is that agriculture is -already burdened with a first mortgage, for from time immemorial it -has had recourse to credit, and if it has been able to struggle on -until these latter times in spite of all the charges which crush it in -countries belonging to the old civilisation, it is because there is an -institution which has provided it with capital in such abundance and -at such low rates of interest, that naturally no other organisation -of agricultural credit can live by making needless repetition of its -arrangements; this institution is rent. If it has so many detractors in -the present day, it is because the people believe it to be of feudal -origin, and above all because they do not consider the conditions under -which it is working, nor the fate of agriculturists in countries where -renting land is little or never practised. - -Some weeks ago I was in a smoking compartment of the express train -which goes from Chicago to New York. It was just at the time when -Mr. Henry George, the celebrated Socialist, had offered himself as -candidate for the New York mayoralty. The news had produced a great -impression all over the United States. Mr. George, has, in fact, used -his talent as a writer, which is really very great, for the diffusion -of the most advanced opinions. He considers that since the soil has no -value except through the labour that is spent upon it all the fruit of -the soil should return to the labourer, the rent of the land, if there -is one, being acquired as a right from the State. His system therefore -leads to the absolute suppression of landed property, since the owner -would soon tire of being only cashier to the State. - -One of our travelling companions, a barrister from Minneapolis, -commenced to talk. From his first words it was easy to see that we -were listening to an ardent partisan of Mr. George’s doctrines. - -“Gentlemen,” said he, as he ended a long speech intended to celebrate -the advantages of Socialism, “you know how all European nations are -now situated. In England, in a great part of France, and particularly -in Ireland, unfortunate wretches work like slaves to win harvests from -the earth, harvests of which they are only allowed to retain just the -amount absolutely necessary to keep them from dying of starvation, all -the rest goes to maintain in idleness people who have only had the -trouble of being born. It is private estates that have caused it all. -It is because the earth, the common property of all mankind, has been -unjustly monopolised by a few, that these infamous things have taken -place. You will tell me that these things are only seen in Europe -amongst nations of backward civilisation, but these private estates -also exist amongst us, and if we do not guard against it we shall also -feel the fatal consequences of the system here. Our agriculturists are -already in the hands of capitalists, who will now only advance them -money at fabulous interest.” - -I had just finished my cigar, and thought that a discussion with the -good man might be amusing. - -“Excuse me,” I commenced, interrupting him, “in which State do you live -then?” - -“In Minnesota. But what is taking place in Minnesota is taking place in -the other States too.” - -“And what interest did you say agriculturists are obliged to pay for -loans in these districts?” - -“At one and a-half at least, and generally at two, and even at three, -per cent per month.” - -“Quite right! I know that. Now that wheat is only worth fifty cents the -bushel the farmers make no profits; the capitalists feeling their money -is in danger will no longer lend without high interest; but then, why -do the farmers require money?” - -“To build their houses, to drain, irrigate and plant, in fact, to put -the land into order that the State gives them.” - -“That is exactly what I wished to make you say. The State gives the -land gratis: it is inalienable. Besides, in its present condition it is -valueless. Then what security has the capitalist? In our country, land -is not given gratuitously; but there are people who take, or who have -taken, the trouble to drain it, to make fences, to build outhouses, -and who then, not having the necessary aptitude for cultivating it, -put the whole property into the hands of a professional farmer, on -condition of receiving a very moderate rent in proportion to the -amount of capital tied up in it. Mr. George pretends that it is the -land that the landlord lets to his farmer. This is absolutely false. -Suppose an earthquake or some other cataclysm destroyed one of our old -French farms, demolished the buildings, effaced every trace of fence, -plantation, farm roads, and drainage--forced the land, in fact, to -return again to the state it was in two thousand years ago, in the time -of the Druids, or to the condition of the land given gratuitously by -your State to the emigrants in this country--I assert that to efface -all the results of this disaster, such large sums must be spent that -whatever rent might be asked for, even under the most favourable -circumstances, that rent would only produce a nominal interest on the -capital. It is then not the soil that I let, but the result of the -work and the capital that I and my predecessors have expended. I am in -exactly the same position as the capitalist in Minnesota. I advance -money to a professional farmer to enable him to earn his living by -cultivating the land; only since I am owner of the land the farmer -cannot carry off my security; I have, therefore, a good guarantee, I -can be satisfied with a very small interest, which I could not be if I -lived in Minnesota. - -“One thing is certain, that owing to this association between -capitalist and cultivator, which is called tenant farming, a farmer -amongst us can retain as floating capital all his available money, on -which he can make eight or ten per cent., whilst he only pays three -or four per cent., and often less, for the sum, usually much greater, -that the landlord places at his disposal in the form of buildings -and fittings up of every kind. With our system, a labourer therefore -obtains money at three per cent. per annum, with yours, they must pay -three per cent. per month. And you think that we are the backward -nation! Allow me, dear sir, to return the compliment.” - -I never saw faces more astonished than those of fifteen or twenty -Yankees who listened to me, seated in arm-chairs, their feet in the -air. Then happened one of those incidents that appear so odd, and -which, however, are so common now that every one travels. A young man, -whom I had not noticed, approached me from the end of the compartment. - -“Sir,” he said, “for the last few minutes I seem to recognise you. Did -you not speak in public last year at Tergnier upon the subject you have -just been explaining?” - -“Yes.” - -“I thought so. I was there. I am Irish; I had just finished my studies -at Juilly, and I had been passing my holidays with the father of one -of my comrades, who was a farmer in the neighbourhood. Now I live with -my father, who is an architect at Saint Paul, Minnesota. It therefore -happens that I am well acquainted with the situation in both the -countries we are discussing, and allow me to say that I am certain you -are perfectly right.” - -The young man’s intervention secured a complete triumph for me. I was -particularly pleased, because Mr. George’s partisan himself at once -said, in the most pleasant way: - -“Well, stranger, I own I never thought of looking at the question from -that point of view. I don’t own myself beaten yet, but I’m shaken.” - -In justice to the Americans, I must own that they always display the -most perfect courtesy and good faith in these discussions. - -I am convinced that the thesis I maintain is perfectly correct. If -European agriculture, crushed with taxes and burdens of all kinds, -has been able to struggle for so long against the competition of new -countries, it is simply owing to the abundance of capital placed at its -service by the system of renting the land. Particularly now that the -struggle, if it is possible at all, is only possible through the aid -of large sums of money, it is the worst of follies to believe that in -breaking the tie that binds the capitalist and the farmer so closely -together, they can ameliorate the situation. This is true of Ireland -more than of anywhere else. - -This, however, is the aim that the National League proposes to itself. -The most curious thing is that, in the end, their success will, in -reality, only benefit the landlords. - -What, in fact, is now passing all over Europe? Land has lost nearly all -its value. The future is so dark that in France, as everywhere else, -one cannot find one landowner in a hundred who would not be too happy, -if not to sell all that he possesses, at least to ease his position in -a great degree, if he could obtain a reasonable price for his land. -And this is the time that the League chooses to propose dispossessing -the landlords by giving them sums of money equal to their actual -income, multiplied at least by fourteen, at most by twenty. How can -they procure the necessary money for such an operation, that is to say, -several milliards? By borrowing. If the Irish Budget is completely -distinct from that of the metropolis, and consequently the moneylenders -know that they cannot rely upon England’s guarantee, I doubt whether -they will display much eagerness. However, let us admit that this -immense undertaking may succeed. What would be the result? - -The fifteen or twenty thousand present landowners, of whom a great -number are, until now, only retained in the country through the -difficulty of leaving it, would hasten to emigrate at once; they -would, therefore, no longer pay one penny of the old taxes, nor of -the new taxes, which the Government would be forced to raise to meet -the interest of the loan. From landowners, they would have all become -fund-holders; instead of having the trouble of collecting rents that -are very irregularly paid, they would be relieved by the State--which -would simply have substituted itself for them--from all these expenses -and all this annoyance. - -The operation would certainly be most advantageous to them. But, I -ask myself, what would the farmer gain when he was obliged to pay -the tax-gatherer probably more than he now pays the agent? If one -could foresee, in the near future, a great increase in the produce of -the earth, one could understand their desire to become landowners, -because they would benefit by this increase, whilst with the present -arrangement it would be promptly followed by a rise in the rents. But, -on the contrary, everything indicates that the depreciation in the -price of land is far from having reached its lowest point. - -They have therefore, in my opinion, everything to gain by remaining -tenant farmers. Now, is it true that they have as much reason to -complain of their landlords as they pretend? On that subject, too, I -think there is a good deal to be said. Let us proceed as we have done -before, and first examine the question from a theoretical point of view. - -When we examine these things closely, we find that tenant farming has -existed from the most distant times. It was the first application of -the fertile principle of the division of labour. Some worked, whilst -others fought to protect them. Formerly, the landowners were called -lords, or seigneurs, and the farmers vassals; but, in reality, it was -always an association between capital and labour with a view to the -cultivation of the land. Only the difference of customs at that date -caused the mutual obligations imposed upon each party to be much more -numerous than they are now. For instance, the lord not only provided -the land and the buildings, he was also forced to promise to provide -as far as possible the security, without which the vassal’s enjoyment -of them would only be illusory. On the other hand, the vassal, besides -his dues, also promised his personal service. A farmer therefore gained -some advantage by taking lands in a seigneurie where they were dearly -let, but where he hoped to dwell in more security than elsewhere. But, -as compensation, the lord of the manor must often have consented to -great diminutions in favour of a tenant who seemed likely to render, -when required, good service as a soldier. - -With the exception of a few trifling differences, the same arrangements -were made all over Europe, in Ireland as elsewhere. When an Irish -lord started for the crusades, or simply to make war upon one of -his neighbours, he selected those of his vassals whom he wished to -accompany him. If one of them refused, I fancy that no time was lost -before “evicting,” if not before hanging him; and, according to the -ideas of the period, he only received what he merited, since he had -failed in one of the obligations imposed upon him by his lease. Customs -have changed. Certain obligations, necessitated by the social state -which then existed, have now ceased to be requisite. A landlord no -longer guarantees his tenants personal safety. The police are charged -with the duty. And in the same way a young Irish captain, whose -regiment was ordered, three or four years ago, to go and fight Arabi -Pasha, never thought of asking his tenants to reinforce his company -if the effective total were incomplete. He contented himself with -sending a recruiting sergeant to seek for the men he required in the -neighbouring taverns, and he would most probably have even given him a -smart reprimand had he enlisted one of his tenants’ sons. The farmers -then owe absolutely nothing to their landlords except the obligations -which are freely discussed between them when the lease is signed, and -very clearly stated in its clauses. They are so perfectly aware of -their independence that they treat as tyrants those landlords who, at -election times, claim to nominate a candidate whose opinions do not -please them. - -Would they like to return to the old customs? Evidently not. They wish -that to be an impossibility. Then, if landlords and tenants no longer -have, and never can have again, in strict law, any connection between -them except that which, in all business, links the buyer and seller, -what do these recriminations against the landlords, that now form the -foundation of Irish literature, mean? The sole duty of a buyer is to -be honest about the quality of the merchandise he offers for sale. -Can a Kerry farmer pretend that where he leases seventy-five acres of -peaty meadow, he expects to reap a harvest of pineapples? The truth -is, that he knows the land quite as well as the landlord, perhaps even -better. If he pays too much for it he can only blame himself and the -competition of the other farmers. But it is absurd to reproach the -landlord because prices are exaggerated. - -If one considers the question from a strictly legal point of view, one -cannot then even discuss the Irish tenants’ complaints, for they have -no foundation. - -But the relations of men with each other cannot be only based upon -strictly legal rights. There is a sentiment of a higher order, which -some call charity and others humanity, and which must also be taken -into account. Therefore, a really honourable man would never take -advantage of the circumstances that had placed another at his mercy -in order to force him to accept a ruinous bargain. Have the majority -of Irish landlords profited by the competition to raise their rents -unreasonably, as they are so often reproached with doing? - -It is naturally impossible to answer this question in a general way. -When we reflect on the enormous and regular increase in the price of -meat which has characterised the last fifteen or twenty years, and -which, until a quite recent date, was apparently unlimited, we must -maintain, like the Irish landlords still do, that the rents have not -been excessively high. It must be remembered that Irish leases are -much longer than our own. They usually include three lives; that is to -say, that the landlord renounces the right to raise the rent until the -death of the would-be tenant’s grandson. It was therefore quite natural -that, remembering the rise in prices, by which he had not profited, the -landlord should exact a rent which might in some cases be exaggerated, -in consideration of current prices, but which would have seemed -reasonable had the rise continued. The misfortune is that prices have -fallen, and therefore a reduction of rent is absolutely necessary. - -But it is quite certain that until these last few years the farmers -were doing well. The proof is, that when for some reason or other -they wished to retire, they always managed to sell their leases, and -sometimes to sell them very dearly. And even now they find buyers. -I was given numerous instances of this fact. Mr. Henry George, the -Socialist of whom I have already spoken, himself acknowledged, that -“Irish land is generally let below the price that the landlords could -obtain if it were put up to auction and they consented to let it -to the highest bidder without regard to persons.” He even quoted an -article in the _Nineteenth Century_, in which a well-known Irish -economist, Miss O’Brien, states that the sub-tenants generally pay the -leaseholders twice the amount for the land that the latter give to -the landlords. This fact established, we must still acknowledge that -certain landlords, particularly those who seek to sell, have sometimes -profited, at a moment when the majority of the leases were drawing -to a close, by suddenly raising the rents in a formidable manner. -This transaction has been carried out by speculators or by creditors -on mortgage, who have taken possession. It has rarely been done by -hereditary landowners. However, there is one well-known man who is -accused of having, with the aid of one of his brothers, doubled in -one year all the rents on an estate which he had just inherited, and -of having immediately sold it to an English manufacturer for a price -based on the new rental. This man is Mr. Parnell, the chief of the -Land League. Knowing the usual inaccuracy of accusations inspired by -political passions, I was much inclined to doubt the truth of this one. -However, the incident has been vouched for by so many of Mr. Parnell’s -neighbours, so many details respecting it have been quoted to me, that -it appears difficult to believe that there is not some foundation for -it. - -When we examine facts closely we find then that in nine cases out of -ten, when an unfortunate man is spoken of as rack-rented to death, -it is of a sub-tenant they are speaking, not of a farmer. The Irish -farmer, on whose fate so much pity is wasted, is in reality more often -than not a frightful jobber; and it would be well to remember that, in -spite of all the laws that are made to prevent it, in spite of the -formal clauses contained in most of the leases, there are very few -farmers who do not contrive by different combinations, to find five or -six poor fellows who give themselves up to him, bound hand and foot, so -great is their desire to have a few acres of bad land. This is the case -of a man whose cabin I visited at Derrygariff; and there are in Ireland -two or three hundred thousand men who are in the same position. - -When a farmer thinks of hiring a farm he should always, before closing -the agreement, consider the following argument: “If my wife, my -children, and I, placed ourselves in service our united salaries would -amount, for instance, to a sum of 80_l._ Besides, I have money invested -which brings me in another 40_l._ If I take a farm, it is evidently not -in order that I should lose money by it. It must therefore bring me in -a minimum of 120_l._, that is to say, the difference between the sum -I can reasonably draw from it, in good and bad years, and the rent I -have to pay, must amount to more than 120_l._, since in this difference -will lie my profits. I must therefore estimate as exactly as possible -what the average of this income will be, and when once I know it I -shall be able to judge what I can offer the landlord, who on his side -should make an analogous calculation. If his claim is so high that I -cannot hope to regain the 120_l._ per annum that represent my work and -the interest of my capital, I will leave him his farm and search for -another!” - -Things would go better if every one reasoned in this way. The Irish -landlords would not let their farms too dearly, for the excellent -reason that no one would give them more than they are worth, and -the tenants would not insist upon keeping seven or eight of their -children and their families on a farm already too small for themselves. -As for those who are unable to obtain a farm, they would not seek a -sub-tenancy without any guarantee of tenure and for which they pay two -or three pounds per acre, while the farmer only pays one pound to his -landlord--when he pays him at all. Only fathers will not be separated -from their children; others will not resign themselves to emigration; -the population is constantly increasing and the number of farms is -rather diminishing, so, whilst the number of those who wish for land -augments, it is quite natural that prices rise. - -How can Mr. Gladstone and the Land League seriously believe that -they can remedy this state of things by political or legislative -measures? One proof that the laws can do nothing for it is that there -is no country in the world where the law is already so favourable to -the tenant. It can never hold the balance equal between him and the -landlord. Thus, even if there is a lease, the tenant has always the -right of leaving his farm, by giving six months’ notice in advance, and -yet he cannot be sent away from it. That is to say that he profits by -all the good luck, without any of the risks of his bargain. A law was -passed five or six years ago which entails still more extraordinary -consequences. It gives the tenant the right to undertake, on his -farm, under pretence of improvements, any work he chooses to attempt, -and imposes upon the landlord the obligation to repay him the whole -value, if at the end of the lease, he will not renew it at the same -rent, or he wishes to send away the tenant. Some years ago one of -my acquaintances let a field situated near the town, to a butcher -in Limerick. The lease formally stipulated that the field was to -be retained in grass. But it happened that through the increase of -population, the town extended on that side. The butcher determined to -build a house in the field, which would bring him a good profit. To get -rid of him now, it is necessary to pay him for this house, and yet his -rent cannot be raised! One might just as well have given the butcher -the right of expropriation. - -The Irish are always comparing their fate with that of Americans. I had -the curiosity to inquire what the American law could be on the subject -of rent. I commenced by making inquiries from several well-informed -persons, and then by their advice I bought a small book, to which I -would refer every one who wishes to be really edified, _Every Man his -Own Lawyer_. - -The results of these inquiries rather astonished me. In America there -is no law that restricts the landlord’s rights. This is what Mr. George -says on this subject--I like to quote him, because he is not suspected -of sympathy for the social arrangements which prevail in Europe:-- - -“We must acknowledge that an aristocracy like that of the Irish -landlords has the virtues as well as the vices peculiar to it. In their -transactions its members often allow themselves to be influenced by -considerations that would be valueless in the eyes of ordinary business -men. An American who had land to let would only think of obtaining the -highest possible rent. If he were told that humanity exacted that he -should let it below the price he hoped to obtain, he would consider the -proposal as strange as if his exchange agent proposed to him to sell -stock below the current price.” - -Mr. Buckle, who has interested himself in these questions, considers -that the rent in Ireland generally equals one-fourth of the gross -produce. In California a great deal of the land is let for one-third of -the gross produce, sometimes even at one-half. In the north-west of the -United States the system of rent is definitively extended--the land is -let for half the produce. - -It is quite certain that if Ireland became an American State, the fate -of Irish farmers would be infinitely more precarious than it now is. -The political question has then a very minor influence in reality. -The Irish population has been for a long time more miserable than the -populations of other European countries, because in proportion to -the resources of the country, it has always been much too numerous. -And this disproportion between the number of the population and the -resources which the country can provide, tends to become greater as the -expenses necessitated by an ever-advancing civilisation become more -considerable. A larger portion of these resources must be withdrawn -to meet the general outlay. In the time of Fin M’Coul and the other -Irish kings, there were, it is said, more inhabitants,[5] and there -were certainly more cattle than there now are; but at that time the -cattle in the country were only used to feed the inhabitants, while -now, out of every ten oxen there is one that must be sold to pay the -constabulary, another to pay the schoolmasters, a third to support the -navy, and so on, so that, in fact, only two or three are left as food -for the inhabitants. This is no longer enough, and consequently the -Irish are dying of hunger. - -There are but two means of restoring the equilibrium. Increase the -number of cattle. To do this, it is necessary to improve and drain the -pasturage, and the landowners are open to reproach for not having done -more in this direction; this is the most serious reproach that can be -made of them; but we must acknowledge that whatever they may do the -result could not materially influence the general situation. This can -only be seriously ameliorated by a great diminution of the population. -We feel some repugnance at this solution of the difficulty. But still, -we have only to consult history to be convinced that from the earliest -ages there have always been nations upon whom it was imposed. - -The Germans threw themselves upon the Roman Empire because they had -not enough to eat at home; it was hunger that drove the Normans to -France. A hundred years ago the Scottish Highlanders literally died of -starvation; they were conveyed in a body to Canada, where many of them -have acquired large fortunes. It is unquestionable that they suffer -much less in Ireland since they have only five million inhabitants -instead of nine. However, they still suffer there, and it is because -Ireland, in its present economic condition, cannot feed more than two -or three million people, perhaps less. - -But she could assuredly retain more if it were possible to create some -industry. Unfortunately this seems very difficult. I am convinced that -we are destined to see, in a very near future, a large number of -industries removed: all those dealing with materials that are neither -produced nor consumed in the country, that is to say, the only ones -which are possible in Ireland, which does not produce any raw material, -and where the consumption is always very small. I believe that many of -these industries, if not all, will be forcibly transported to other -localities than those where they are now working, and that in choosing -these localities the owners will be guided in a great measure by -climatic considerations. Workmen of all countries evidently aspire to -an equality of enjoyment. On the other hand, the facility of transport, -the amalgamation of working apparatus, resulting from the diffusion of -capital, impose upon masters the levelling of salaries. Now with equal -salaries, men suffer more in cold damp climates than in dry warm ones. -I add that they work less. This fact is well known in the French navy, -for a ship built or repaired in Brest costs infinitely more than if the -same work had been executed in the dockyards at Toulon. In Ireland, -a workman must always spend more for his food, his firing, and the -maintenance of his family, than if he lived in France or America. The -workman’s associations, which are now multiplying on all sides, will -soon reveal this disadvantage to him; he will demand an increase of -salary and ruin his master. - -I have therefore little faith in the resurrection of Irish industries. -But what is impossible for private enterprise may be done by -Government. I even think it may be considered a Government duty. The -Irish landowners are reproached for their absenteeism, that is, for -the habit of spending their income outside the country. If there is a -landowner guilty of absenteeism it is certainly the Government. For -instance, the Irish coast is broken by a series of roads, each finer -than the other. If England were to suppress one of her Channel arsenals -and re-establish it in Ireland, the transfer would certainly cost her -some money. But the money would be well spent, for it would enable some -thousands of families to remain in the country, instead of being forced -to expatriate themselves before long. - -If the wish to obliterate the odious memories of the last century is -not strong enough to induce England to engage in this task, there is -another consideration which should make her reflect. Her power is -wholly based on her colonial empire. Until now she has been able, -without too much difficulty, to govern by force one hundred and fifty -million Indians, and maintain the colonies of her own people in a -state of political guardianship--Australia, New Zealand, and Canada. -If she had not enough men to keep up the effective total of the sixty -or eighty regiments that garrison India she would soon be driven from -the country. The white population of the other colonies doubles itself -every eight or ten years. When they have two or three times more -inhabitants than the metropolis, is it probable that the legislative -supremacy of the latter will be long maintained? It is therefore of -vital importance to England to retain in Great Britain the largest -population it can possibly support, and on this account the emigration -of two or three million Irish would be a great misfortune for her. - -In the first part of this study I related a few incidents of the crisis -which now rages in Ireland. How will this crisis end? I believe in the -most simple way in the world. The adoption of Mr. Gladstone’s Bill -would only have made things worse. The tenants would perhaps have -imagined that they derived some advantage from it at first; but, as -I have said, it is not the leaseholders of the farms who are really -miserable, but the under-tenants, who are shamefully rack-rented by the -farmers. But no one can do anything for them, since in their eagerness -to obtain the land they will accept any combination proposed to them, -in order to evade the law, which forbids sub-letting. I therefore -believe that Mr. Gladstone’s defeat was a good thing for Ireland. - -The Government’s first duty is to re-establish material order, and this -can only be done by suppressing the jury. The _Times_ already speaks -of it. There would certainly not be an uprising, or if there were, it -would not be of any importance. - -Rents would fall enormously, as they have already done all over Europe, -and agriculture would disappear almost entirely, to give place to -cattle-breeding. - -Many signs prove that this will be the way a settlement will be -arranged. It is first the enormous subsidies sent from America, and -secondly the support given by the clergy, that have made this crisis so -important and the League so powerful. Now the Americans begin to tire -of it. After my return from Ireland I made a tour in the United States, -and I can affirm that this sentiment is becoming visible. At a great -Irish meeting held at Chicago whilst I was there, one of the orators -ventured to say, that if the millions of dollars sent to Ireland were -only used to pay for firing an occasional shot at a landlord from -behind a hedge, the results were not in proportion to the sacrifices -made, and the audience seemed to agree with his opinion. I have every -reason to believe that lately the American subsidies have greatly -diminished. - -I fancy also that the clergy are only waiting for a good opportunity to -withdraw from the League. The other day, Mr. Harrington, at Killarney, -had already uttered some words which seem to indicate that politicians -are beginning to fear something of the kind. The clergy entered the -League in spite of themselves; the movement first showed itself with so -much violence that had they left its exclusive direction in the hands -of the politicians, they would have run the risk of compromising, at -least for a time, all their popularity. But the Catholicism of many of -the Irish-Americans, whose alliance they were forced to submit to, is -so doubtful, that it is easy to foresee that the cause of religion will -not gain anything from their triumph. I am quite convinced that the -clergy will not long defer separating themselves from the League. - -The movement itself may yet last for some time, but it will gradually -become weaker. Everything depends on the rapidity with which emigration -is conducted. Now, I believe it will be speedily carried out. Formerly, -the Irish would not leave the country until they had absolutely no -means of staying there. I always thought that they emigrated pretty -willingly; but I was mistaken with regard to the past. Now, on the -contrary, all the young men only think of expatriation. An Australian -ex-official, who has retired about fifteen years, and is living in -the county of Limerick, pointed out to me this change of feeling in -the population. Every Irishman who leaves for Australia or the United -States does more towards the solution of the crisis than Mr. Parnell’s -finest speeches; for, in diminishing the number of competitors for the -land, he lowers the price of farms, and the whole question is answered! - -Mr. Parnell, and all the otherwise honourable men who give him their -assistance, will not then succeed in re-establishing the independence -of Ireland, nor in modifying to any visible extent the present -political situation. We are convinced that after some years, when they -see peace and relative prosperity restored to their country, they will -not regret that they failed to carry out their programme; for we do -them the honour to believe that they would be more contented with an -arrangement that secured, as far as possible, the amelioration of their -fellow-countrymen’s fate, than with the egotistical satisfaction which -a momentary success would give them. If their only aim was to obtain -revenge by the ruin of England for all the injuries she inflicted -upon their fathers, they would certainly have some chance of success -in continuing the struggle. But it is only too evident that instead -of profiting by the downfall of English power, Ireland could only be -crushed by the wreck. - -So many sacrifices, so much devotion--have they all been expended to no -purpose? Assuredly not. The shock given to Irish society by exposing -all its misery has certainly assisted in ripening the question, of -hastening its solution, and consequently of shortening the sufferings -of all that too numerous class of the population who persist in -remaining in their native land, although that land can no longer -nourish them. A second Ireland already exists in America; a third will -soon be founded in Australia or elsewhere. In the prosperity that they -have found will the Irish retain the religious faith, the morality, -and the gaiety, which have supported and consoled their fathers through -so many years of oppression and misery? Unfortunately, we are not quite -sure. These fine qualities, which seem inherent in the race, receive -very severe blows when it quits its native soil. Let us at least hope -that they will be perpetuated amongst those who remain in the Emerald -Isle, and that travellers will be able to continue paying them the -homage that I have done when returning from a visit to _Paddy at Home_. - - -THE END. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[5] I scarcely believe this, but the Irish like to assert it. - - - - -RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, -LONDON AND BUNGAY. - - - - -THOMAS CARLYLE’S WORKS. - -SARTOR RESARTUS. -FRENCH REVOLUTION. -LIFE OF JOHN STERLING. -OLIVER CROMWELL’S LETTERS AND SPEECHES. -ON HEROES AND HERO WORSHIP. -PAST AND PRESENT. -CRITICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS ESSAYS. -LATTER-DAY PAMPHLETS. -LIFE OF SCHILLER. -FREDERICK THE GREAT. -WILHELM MEISTER. -TRANSLATIONS FROM MUSÆUS, TIECK AND RICHTER. -THE EARLY KINGS OF NORWAY: - Essay on the Portraits of Knox; and General Index. - - -THE LIBRARY EDITION. - -_Handsomely printed in 34 vols. demy 8vo, cloth, £15 3s._ - - -THE CHEAP AND UNIFORM EDITION - -_In 23 vols. crown 8vo, cloth, £7 5s._ - - -THE PEOPLE’S EDITION. - -_In 37 vols. small crown 8vo, price 2s. each vol., bound in cloth; or -in sets of 37 vols. in 19, cloth gilt, for £3 14s._ - - -ASHBURTON EDITION. - -_17 vols. demy 8vo, 8s. each._ - - -CHARLES DICKENS’S WORKS. - -MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. -DAVID COPPERFIELD. -BLEAK HOUSE. -LITTLE DORRIT. -PICKWICK PAPERS. -OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. -NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. -DOMBEY AND SON. -EDWIN DROOD; REPRINTED PIECES; and other Stories. -BARNABY RUDGE. -OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. -CHRISTMAS STORIES. -OLIVER TWIST. -GREAT EXPECTATIONS. -SKETCHES BY “BOZ.” -UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER. -CHRISTMAS BOOKS. -A CHILD’S HISTORY OF ENGLAND. -AMERICAN NOTES and PICTURES FROM ITALY. -A TALE OF TWO CITIES. -HARD TIMES. - - -“THE CHARLES DICKENS EDITION” - -Complete, with Life by JOHN FORSTER. 23 vols. crown 8vo, £4 3_s._; with -Illustrations. - - -THE HOUSEHOLD EDITION. - -Complete, with Life by JOHN FORSTER. 22 vols. crown 4to, cloth, £4 -8_s._ 6_d._ - - -THE POPULAR LIBRARY EDITION. - -Complete in 30 vols. post 8vo, £6; separate vols., 4_s._ each. - - -THE CABINET EDITION. - -_Now Publishing._ - -To be completed in 30 vols. small fcap. 8vo, Marble Paper Sides, Cloth -Backs, with uncut edges, price 1_s._ 6_d._ each. 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De Mandat-Grancey</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - - p { margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; - } - - p.bold {text-align: center; font-weight: bold;} - p.bold2 {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 150%;} - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; - } - h1 span, h2 span { display: block; text-align: center; } - #id1 { font-size: smaller } - - - hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; - } - - body{margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - } - - table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; border-collapse: collapse; border: none; text-align: right;} - - .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - text-indent: 0px; - } /* page numbers */ - - .center {text-align: center;} - .smaller {font-size: smaller;} - .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - .mynote { background-color: #DDE; color: black; padding: .5em; margin-left: 20%; - margin-right: 20%; } /* colored box for notes at beginning of file */ - .space-above {margin-top: 3em;} - .right {text-align: right;} - .left {text-align: left;} - .s3 {display: inline; margin-left: 3em;} - - .poem {display: inline-block; text-align: left;} - .poem br {display: none;} - .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} - .poem div {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem div.i1 {margin-left: 1em;} - - - h1.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 190%; - margin-top: 0em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - h2.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 135%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - page-break-before: avoid; - line-height: 1; } - h3.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 110%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - h4.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 100%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - hr.pgx { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - </style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pgx" title="">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Paddy at Home, by E. De Mandat-Grancey, -Translated by Alice Pullein Morton</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Paddy at Home</p> -<p>Author: E. De Mandat-Grancey</p> -<p>Release Date: June 5, 2021 [eBook #65514]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PADDY AT HOME***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4 class="pgx" title="">E-text prepared by deaurider, Martin Pettit,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (https://www.pgdp.net)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (https://archive.org)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/22617530.2597.emory.edu - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/front.jpg" alt="front" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/if001.jpg" alt="COLLIS BROWNE CHLORODYNE" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<p>ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE.</p> - -<p>COUGHS, COLDS, ASTHMA, BRONCHITIS.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dr.</span> J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE IS THE GREAT SPECIFIC FOR -CHOLERA DIARRHŒA, DYSENTERY.</p> - -<p>Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE.—Dr. J. C. BROWNE (late Army -Medical Staff) DISCOVERED a REMEDY to denote which he coined the word -CHLORODYNE. Dr. Browne is the SOLE INVENTOR, and, as the composition -of Chlorodyne cannot possibly be discovered by Analysis (organic -substances defying elimination), and since the formula has never been -published, it is evident that any statement to the effect that a -compound is identical with Dr. Browne’s Chlorodyne <i>must be false</i>.</p> - -<p>This Caution is necessary, as many persons deceive purchasers by false -representations.</p> - -<p>DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE.—Vice Chancellor Sir W. PAGE WOOD -stated publicly in Court that Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE was UNDOUBTEDLY the -INVENTOR of CHLORODYNE, that the whole story of the defendant Freeman -was deliberately untrue, and he regretted to say it had been sworn -to.—See <i>The Times</i>, July 13th, 1864.</p> - -<p>GENERAL BOARD of HEALTH, London, REPORT that it ACTS as a CHARM, one -dose generally sufficient.</p> - -<p>Dr. GIBBON, Army Medical Staff, Calcutta, states: “2 DOSES -COMPLETELY CURED ME of DIARRHŒA.”</p> - -<p><i>From</i> <span class="smcap">Symes & Co.</span>, Pharmaceutical Chemists, Simla. <i>Jan. -5, 1880.</i></p> - -<p><i>To</i> <span class="smcap">J. T. Davenport</span>, London.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,—We congratulate you upon the widespread -reputation this justly-esteemed medicine has earned for itself all -over the East. As a remedy of general utility, we much question -whether a better is imported, and we shall be glad to hear of its -finding a place in every Anglo-Indian home. The other brands, we -are happy to say, are now relegated to the native bazaars, and, -judging from their sale, we fancy their sojourn there will be -but evanescent. We could multiply instances <i>ad infinitum</i> of -the extraordinary efficacy of DR. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE in -Diarrhœa and Dysentery, Spasms, Cramps, Neuralgia the Vomiting of -Pregnancy, and as a general sedative, that have occurred under our -personal observation during many years. In Choleraic Diarrhœa, -and even in the more terrible forms of Cholera itself, we have -witnessed its surprisingly controlling power.</p> - -<p>We have never used any other form of this medicine than Collis -Browne’s, from a firm conviction that it is decidedly the best, -and also from a sense of duty we owe to the profession and the -public, as we are of opinion that the substitution of any other -than Collis Browne’s is a deliberate breach of faith on the part -of the chemist to prescriber and patient alike.—We are, Sir, -faithfully yours, SYMES & CO., <i>Members of the Pharm. Society of -Great Britain, His Excellency the Viceroy’s Chemists</i>.</p> - -<p>DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE is the TRUE PALLIATIVE in NEURALGIA, -GOUT, CANCER, TOOTHACHE, RHEUMATISM.</p> - -<p>DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE is a liquid medicine which assuages -PAIN of EVERY KIND, affords a calm, refreshing sleep WITHOUT HEADACHE, -and INVIGORATES the nervous system when exhausted.</p> - -<p>DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE’S CHLORODYNE rapidly cuts short all attacks of -EPILEPSY, SPASMS, COLIC, PALPITATION, HYSTERIA.</p> - -<p>IMPORTANT CAUTION.—The IMMENSE SALE of this REMEDY has given rise to -many UNSCRUPULOUS IMITATIONS. Be careful to observe Trade Mark. Of all -Chemists. 1s. 1½d., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sole Manufacturer</span>,<br /> -J. T. DAVENPORT, 33 Gt. Russell St., W.C.</p> - -<p><i>Dr. BROWNE coined the word CHLORODYNE to designate his discovery, -therefore to apply the word to other preparations is dishonest.</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> - -<h1>PADDY AT HOME.</h1> - -<p class="bold">(“CHEZ PADDY.”) </p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/if006.jpg" alt="title page" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> - -<p class="bold2">PADDY AT HOME.</p> - -<p class="bold">(“CHEZ PADDY.”)</p> - -<p class="bold space-above">BY</p> - -<p class="bold2">THE BARON E. DE MANDAT-GRANCEY.</p> - -<p class="bold space-above">TRANSLATED BY</p> - -<p class="bold2">ALICE PULLEIN MORTON.</p> - -<p class="bold space-above"><i>FOURTH EDITION, REVISED.</i></p> - -<p class="bold space-above">LONDON:<br />CHAPMAN AND HALL, <span class="smcap">Limited</span>,<br /> -11, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN.<br />1888.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Richard Clay and Sons,<br /> -london and bungay.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> - -<p class="bold">DEDICATION.</p> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/line.jpg" alt="line" /></div> - -<p class="center">H.R.H. THE COUNTESS OF FLANDERS<br /><br />HAS DEIGNED TO<br /><br />ACCEPT THE DEDICATION<br /><br />OF THIS BOOK.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> - -<h2>PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.</h2> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/line.jpg" alt="line" /></div> - -<p>Agriculture has been subjected for some years past in all parts of -Europe, and particularly in France, to a crisis so intense and terrible -as only to be compared to that which Italy passed through at the time -when, by the extinction of piracy in the Mediterranean, the transport -of grain from Egypt and Algeria to Rome became possible. The effect -of that measure was to ruin the agriculture of the peninsula, and to -compel the rural population to exile themselves from their country; but -it must be admitted that the result in the end was to benefit all the -nations of the Mediterranean coast by enabling them to participate in -the advantages of civilisation, which until then had been the appanage -of a very small number. This economic revolution, disastrous as it was -to the Roman Empire, proved beneficial to humanity.</p> - -<p>I am absolutely convinced that the application of the discovery -of steam, to diminish the spaces which separate us from the -thinly-populated continents of America and Australia, must bring about -an analogous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> revolution—that is to say, a more equal division of -wealth, and a more logical distribution of the human race upon the -surface of the globe. I understand very well that those who can set the -love of humanity before the love of country will rejoice at this—but I -am not one of them.</p> - -<p>I believe that for certain countries success in the contest of -competition is impossible. In those countries a large emigration is -the only remedy. With us in France it is different. I believe we can -compete, and compete successfully, when aided by protection, and I am -glad to recognise the fact that most of the continental nations adopt -this policy, for it is the only one which, in my opinion, will preserve -to the Caucasian race and to European civilisation the position which -they hold at the head of mankind.</p> - -<p>I have been to seek in Ireland the confirmation of these theories. I -believe I have found it there. I know how repugnant such ideas will be -to some, and that possibly they may call forth but little sympathy from -the mass of English readers; I have therefore been desirous of offering -these few words of explanation in order that they may understand the -spirit in which this book has been conceived and written as it is—by a -Frenchman for Frenchmen.</p> - -<p>“<i>Traduttori! tradittori!</i>” says an Italian proverb, and this I had -so forcibly in my mind that I had some hesitation when Mr. Chapman -did me the honour to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span> offer to publish an English translation of my -book. I know well the difficulty of translating a book of this style, -however intimate the translator may be with the two languages; and -I should never have thought it possible for any one to succeed so -completely in rendering even the slightest thoughts of the author, as -has been accomplished by Mrs. Morton, who has so kindly served me by -interpreting me to the English public. I may perhaps be permitted to -offer to her here some expressions of my gratitude and of my admiration -for her literary talent, which I have felt so strongly while reading -the proof sheets.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Edmond de Mandat-Grancey.</span></p> - -<p><i>17th July, 1887.</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></p> - -<h2>PREFACE.</h2> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/line.jpg" alt="line" /></div> - -<p>Ireland and France are still united by so many sympathetic memories -that we have watched all the incidents of the struggle undertaken -by the unfortunate Irish against England with the keenest interest. -This struggle has now lasted nearly three hundred years, but the -Irish have never despaired. They have always preserved their faith -and their nationality unsullied. England has tried every means for -their subjection. First—extreme repression. We may say that until -the commencement of this century, the brutality and perfidy she has -displayed, surpass all that one could imagine. How, for instance, can -we allude calmly to the Bill (2 Anne, C. VI. § 3) which provided that -if in a Catholic family the eldest son became a Protestant, he might, -through that alone, lay claim to the property of all his relations who -remained Catholic; the latter only retaining the usufruct, and being -then obliged to remit a portion of the rents to him. This law has -been repealed; but it was not until 1829 that a Catholic member could -sit in Parliament.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span> These measures were quite inadequate to advance -matters one single step. The two races always refused to assimilate. -England herself has been conquered, and the Norman invaders were not -too merciful towards the Saxons. However, the fusion took place so -rapidly that at the end of one or two centuries there was no longer any -distinction between the two peoples.</p> - -<p>But it appears as though the Norman race in blending with the Saxon, -had lost all its powers of assimilation. From that time England has -made many conquests. Nearly everywhere she has scrupulously respected -the customs, the religion, and even the prejudices of the vanquished. -And yet neither in Canada, in India, nor anywhere else has she ever -been able to assimilate the conquered race, in spite of the material -progress that she often brings them, whilst the Spaniards or the -Portuguese, who used the most abominable means to conquer their -colonies, who did nothing for them, who exhausted them in every -possible way, still managed to completely modify the nationality of the -races with whom they were dealing, so that after they regained their -freedom these colonies remained Spanish or Portuguese in language, -customs, and religion.</p> - -<p>It therefore seems as though modern Englishmen have an absolute -inaptitude for the assimilation of foreign races. From 1829 they have -done all in their power to win submission from Ireland by kindness, -since they could not conquer it by violence.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span> Everything that we hear -about the state of this unhappy country shows us that these attempts -have not been more successful than the former ones.</p> - -<p>Now Mr. Gladstone wishes to try a third experiment. He says that -unquestionably the union between Ireland and England has, until now, -been a most unhappy one. We have only to look at the map to see that -they must live under the same political legislation. A divorce is -impossible. Let something like a judicial separation be tried; each -one would regain liberty to a certain extent, and there would only be -left those details under the old dual regulations which it would be -absolutely impossible to deal with separately. This is the programme -now laid before the English people. Has it any chance of being accepted -by the parties interested? And then if it is adopted, what influence -would it have over the future of the two countries?</p> - -<p>I have often asked myself these questions, sympathising with one side -when reading the excited debates in the House of Commons, with the -other when hearing of the lamentable state of Ireland. But I seem to -catch a glimpse of one view of the question that no one has yet alluded -to. The Irish attribute their misery to England’s tyranny; the English, -indignant at the accusation, reply that the laws which rule Ireland -are the same which render the English people rich and prosperous; they -assert that the Irish have only themselves to blame for their misery. -In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span> this discussion each starts with a fixed idea—that the misery -of Ireland must have some social, religious, or political cause. May -it not quite simply result from economical causes? The facility of -transport is tending to level the value of land and population all -over the world; and consequently it is ruining agriculture in Europe. -This evolution is only commencing amongst us, whilst the accumulation -of capital and the fertility of the soil have until now singularly -mitigated its effects. But in Ireland, where no capital exists, and -where the soil is very poor, this evolution commenced a long time ago, -and its consequences must be more terrible than anywhere else. Is it -not here that we must look for the real origin of the Irish crisis? -And if this is so, may not the events now taking place in that unhappy -country be reproduced amongst us sooner or later, if we do not guard -against them?</p> - -<p>It was in order to verify this theory that I determined last year to go -and pass some weeks in Ireland, where I have many friends. The notes -which I now ask you to read have been collected from day to day. As far -as possible, I have named the persons who have given me information, -and designated by their right names the localities through which I -passed. But I have been forced to break this rule three or four times, -in order not to expose my hosts to personal danger.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Grancey</span>, <i>April, 1887</i>.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/line.jpg" alt="line" /></div> - -<table summary="CONTENTS"> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">CHAPTER I.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td><span class="smaller">PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">THE STORY OF A MINISTER, HIS SECRETARY, AND A PAIR OF<br /> -SATIN SHOES—MR. R——’S THEORIES—LONDON—ENGLISH<br /> -SOLDIERS—THE CHANNEL TUNNEL—HYDE<br /> -PARK—HOLYHEAD—DUBLIN—THE JAUNTING CARS—<i>The<br /> -United Ireland</i> AND MR. O’BRIEN—<i>The Freeman’s -Journal</i><br /> AND MR. DWYER GRAY</td> - <td><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">CHAPTER II.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">THE LAND LEAGUE—AN IRISH CONFESSOR—CAPTAIN BOYCOTT—A<br /> -CONSPIRATOR’S CAVE—MR. HARRINGTON—MR.<br /> -BIGGAR—THE OBSTRUCTION CAMPAIGN—MR. SULLIVAN<br /> -LORD MAYOR, POET, PATRIOT, STATESMAN, AND DIVER—A<br /> -ROUGH ELECTION MEETING—MR. SHACKLETON—A<br /> -CANDIDATE’S PROFESSION OF FAITH—PEMBROKE HOUSE</td> - <td><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">CHAPTER III.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">ADVICE TO TOURISTS ON THE ART OF KISSING ENGLISH<br /> -WOMEN—AN IRISH INN—CASTLE CONNELL—THE<br /> -DEATH OF THE LAST OF THE O’BRIENS—BALLINACOURTY—CAPTAIN<br /> -MOONLIGHT—THE SHANNON—SIR CROKER<br /> -BARRINGTON—MR. CARDEN—LORD CLONCURRY AND HIS<br /> -TENANTS—A LAND LEAGUE HUT—MR. PATRICK HOGAN’S<br /> -OPINION OF THE LANDLORDS</td> - <td><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span>CHAPTER IV.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">LIMERICK—ADMIRABLE SELF-DEVOTION OF THE IRISH PIGS—THE<br /> -AGENTS—MALLOW—KILLARNEY—HOW WE TRAVEL<br /> -IN KERRY—MUCKROSS ABBEY—AN IRISH CABIN—DERRYGARIFF—THE<br /> -ORIGINAL HISTORY OF AN ESTATE—THE<br /> -DRAMA OF GLENVEIGH—A DINNER IN KERRY</td> - <td><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">CHAPTER V.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">AN AGENT’S MORNING—HOW A DAIRY WAS FOUNDED—MR.<br /> -O’LEARY’S CASE—MINISTER AND ARCHDEACON—CATHOLIC<br /> -ORGANISATION IN IRELAND—THE DISTRESS OF THE TAX-PAYERS<br /> -AT KENMARE—AN INDIGNATION MEETING—THE<br /> -IRISH CONSTABULARY</td> - <td><a href="#Page_160">160</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">CHAPTER VI.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">DEPARTURE FROM KENMARE—A BAILIFF UNDER PROTECTION—HOW<br /> -PLAIN DAUGHTERS CAN BE ADVANTAGEOUSLY<br /> -DISPOSED OF—BLARNEY CASTLE—TRALEE—BARON<br /> -DOWSE’S SPEECH—AN IRISH MARKET—THE GRAND JURY<br /> -AND ITS PRESIDENT—MEDITATIONS</td> - <td><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">CHAPTER VII.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC CASE OF BOYCOTTING—ANGLERS<br /> -ON THE SHANNON—THE CONSTITUTIONAL—ENGLISH<br /> -EDUCATION—DEPARTURE FOR SHAUNGANEEN—MR.<br /> -THOMPSON—THE CORK DEFENCE UNION—SEVERELY<br /> -BOYCOTTED—PRETTY MISS M’CARTHY AND HER LEG OF<br /> -MUTTON—ENSILAGE IN THE OPEN AIR—THE RETURN<br /> -FROM CAHIRMEE—THE CONNECTION BETWEEN ENGLISHWOMEN’S<br /> -VIRTUE AND THE RAISING OF THOROUGHBRED<br /> -HORSES—THE ORIGIN OF HARICOT MUTTON—CHRISTMAS<br /> -NIGHT 1880 AT SHAUNGANEEN</td> - <td><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">CHAPTER VIII.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">CONCLUSION</td> - <td><a href="#Page_279">279</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<p class="bold2">PADDY AT HOME.</p> - -<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> - -<blockquote><p class="center">THE STORY OF A MINISTER, HIS SECRETARY, AND A PAIR OF SATIN -SHOES—MR. R——’S THEORIES—LONDON—ENGLISH SOLDIERS—THE -CHANNEL TUNNEL—HYDE PARK—HOLYHEAD—DUBLIN—THE JAUNTING -CARS—<i>United Ireland</i> AND MR. O’BRIEN—<i>The -Freeman’s Journal</i> AND MR. DWYER GRAY.</p></blockquote> - -<p><i>July 1st, 1886.</i>—At twenty past eight this morning I left the <i>Gare -du Nord</i> and arrived at Charing Cross at half-past five. When we -reached Dover at three o’clock the English Custom House officers had -closely examined all the luggage carried in the hand. Others now waited -for us in London, who searched our trunks quite as minutely. They made -me unscrew the little boxes in my dressing-bag, apparently to ascertain -that they did not contain dynamite; for at the present time dynamite -causes great preoccupation, not only to the English police, but also to -a great many of Queen Victoria’s faithful subjects. I can prove this by -a story which is only a few months old, and which was related to me a -day or two ago.</p> - -<p>It happened at the time when O’Donovan Rossa, at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> New York, daily -announced in his newspaper that the week would not close before all -the public buildings in London were destroyed by the exertions of -pupils who had just left the special school which he had founded at -Brooklyn for the study of the use of dynamite; and since these threats -have been corroborated by the explosions at the Tower of London and at -the War Office, public excitement had reached its highest point. One -morning when a very high official reached his office he saw a small, -strangely-shaped parcel, which Had been placed on his writing-table.</p> - -<p>“What is that?” demanded the official, addressing his secretary.</p> - -<p>“I do not know,” replied the other; “it was there when I came in, and -no one can tell me who put it there.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, oh!” said the official. “I am obliged to go out for a few minutes; -be kind enough to open it and see what it is,” and the great man -precipitately left the room.</p> - -<p>The secretary advanced to open it, but changed his mind.</p> - -<p>“Mr. Jones,” said he to one of the chief clerks who was reading in the -next room, “the chief has sent me to the city. Will you kindly open -the small parcel you will find on the writing-table?” and he ran down -stairs.</p> - -<p>Half an hour later when the chief returned he found the man who cleans -the office examining with an astonished face a pair of satin shoes that -the minister’s wife, who was then in the country, had sent to her lord -and master in order that they might be returned to the shoemaker.</p> - -<p>However, for the moment dynamite seems to have become a matter of -secondary interest. Every one is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> thinking of the elections and of the -events passing in Ulster.</p> - -<p>You must know that of the population of this Irish province about -fifty-five per cent. are Protestants, nearly all of Scottish origin. -For two hundred years, thanks to English supremacy, they have not -neglected a single opportunity of tormenting their Catholic neighbours, -and they say that if Mr. Gladstone’s Bill should render Ireland -independent, the positions will be reversed, and the Catholics will -lose no time in returning their persecutions with interest. Their -exasperation has therefore assumed alarming dimensions. It must also be -acknowledged their arguments are very specious.</p> - -<p>“We have,” say they, “been brought here by the English to consolidate -their conquest. In all the southern revolts we have formed the vanguard -of the English troops. It is just because we are loyal subjects of -the Queen that we are hated by the Irish; and now England talks of -abandoning us, bound hand and foot, to our enemies.</p> - -<p>“We maintain that in doing this she will exceed her rights. No -Government is allowed to cut the bonds that unite the different parts -of the kingdom. English we are, and English we mean to remain; and if -they intend to separate us, in spite of ourselves, we will resist, -if necessary, even in arms. And we shall soon see whether the Queen -will send her soldiers against us merely because we wish to remain her -subjects.”</p> - -<p>With this subscriptions were organised, not only in Ulster, but in most -of the colonies; rifles were bought, volunteers were enlisted, and the -party newspapers loudly announced that an army of 75,000 men was only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> -waiting until Mr. Gladstone’s Bill passed before taking the field.</p> - -<p>No doubt there was a great deal of exaggeration in all this. However, -that the movement existed cannot be denied, and from its nature it must -create very great difficulties for Mr. Gladstone if he succeeded in -passing his Bill, for he will be forced to send an English army against -Englishmen only because they wish to remain English subjects. Would -the army go? Would the soldiers accept such an odious commission? We -may well inquire, for the other day at Aldershot some drunken soldiers -invaded a Gladstonian election meeting. They beat the persons present, -treating them as rebels, and when the guard were called in they did not -conceal their sympathy for their comrades.</p> - -<p>I also read in the <i>Morning Post</i> a fact which appears to me very -significant. The officer who commanded the detachment which reached -Khartoum some hours too late to save Gordon—Lord Charles Beresford, -captain in the navy—is now candidate for the section of Marylebone, -in London, which he represented in the last Parliament. A rumour had -spread that he, General Lord Wolseley, and several other superior -officers who are Protestants but of Irish origin, had promised in case -of a conflict, to take the command of the Ulster volunteers. He was -questioned on this point, and this was his answer:</p> - -<p>“They have grossly distorted my words,” said he. “I am an officer, and -I can never join men who fight against Her Majesty the Queen; but if I -were ordered to serve against my fellow-countrymen I would resign my -commission.”</p> - -<p>It is therefore not impossible that the least skirmish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> in Ulster would -end, always supposing that the Bill passed, in mutiny in the English -army. The situation is consequently very serious. At least this appears -to be the general opinion. I had the good fortune to dine with several -political men this evening. Our host, a very fine old man, occupies an -important position in the magistracy. He is also a distinguished author -who has exercised considerable influence in the Liberal movement of the -last fifty years; he was the intimate friend of de Tocqueville and his -assiduous correspondent.</p> - -<p>Mr. R——, who honoured me with a long conversation before dinner, -appeared to me deeply moved by current events. The crisis provoked by -Mr. Gladstone seemed to him so serious, that, although an old Liberal -who had belonged to the Whigs all his life, and although for some years -he had not engaged in active politics, he had not hesitated to re-enter -the arena and to take the field against his friends in favour of the -Conservatives. Naturally, his attitude produced a great impression, and -the other day he was invited to make a speech at a meeting over which -Lord Malmesbury was to preside.</p> - -<p>The newspapers published and commented upon his speech. I told him how -much the reports given of it had interested me, and he was kind enough -to condense into a few words the thesis that he had supported.</p> - -<p>His estimate of the situation threw such a vivid light upon the -question that I cannot do better than reproduce his words.</p> - -<p>“What Mr. Gladstone really proposes to us,” said he, “is a -dismemberment of England. He wishes that with our free consent and -without any struggle we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> should submit to the loss of one of our -provinces, just as after a disastrous war, you lost Alsace.</p> - -<p>“The wound thus inflicted upon the country would perhaps be even more -dangerous than the one that France has suffered from, because, for many -reasons, the scar would always remain open. And to whom in fact do they -propose to surrender Ireland? To a Parliament elected by herself! But -they know who the members of that Parliament would be. It would be Mr. -Parnell and his partisans, the Irish members of the present Parliament, -or rather Mr. Parnell and his followers, for no one denies the -well-known fact that the Irish Nationalists, before their nomination, -were obliged to sign an agreement which bound them to the most absolute -obedience to Mr. Parnell’s orders.</p> - -<p>“We should therefore surrender Ireland to Mr. Parnell, and to the -National League of which he is president. Now the National League -is a society organised in America under the patronage of Irish -revolutionists and their accomplices whom they can find amongst us, -whose avowed aim is to substitute their authority for that of the -Queen. And they have so far succeeded that this irresponsible power -has been able to establish in Ireland all the elements and all the -machinery of regular authority. It raises taxes, promulgates laws, and -has tribunals which simulate justice in the application of these laws, -which are scrupulously obeyed because, whilst the enforcement of our -law is hampered by the thousand formalities which always accompany the -administration of regular justice, they use the dagger and pistol to -ensure the execution of their decrees. Hundreds of innocent lives have -already been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> sacrificed in this way. Their power is so great that they -have found means to render life intolerable to all who show the least -inclination to free themselves; for their spies penetrate everywhere, -and the country is so terrorised that the victims themselves dare not -complain. And now they propose that we should surrender Ireland into -the hands of these men!</p> - -<p>“But this is not all. Is there, at least, any chance that so -dishonourable an abdication, so painful a sacrifice, would secure -peace? We assert that it would not do so. The Irish Nationalists have -no definite aspirations. They use each concession that is made to them -as an argument and basis for claiming a second. They are no longer -content to demand that Ireland should have the right of framing her -own laws; theoretically, this would still be admissible; they now wish -that she should no longer submit to the laws of the English Parliament. -As though two parts of the same nation can be ruled by different -legislatures, by two codes so entirely different, and inspired by -opposing principles. The experiment has already been tried in 1782, -and it was then so clearly proved that this combination was absolutely -impracticable, that Mr. Pitt won eternal honour by re-establishing, in -1800, that union which is so indispensable to a nation, yet which they -now dare to ask us to repeal.</p> - -<p>“I now approach another side of the question. I have the most -profound respect for those of our fellow-citizens who profess the -Catholic religion. But, as you know, the eighty-six present members -of Parliament who have attached themselves to Mr. Parnell, owe their -election to the influence of the Catholic clergy. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> are completely -and absolutely devoted to the prelates of that Church. It is therefore -these prelates who would rule Ireland. They would have the direction -of the public education. But then, what would be the fate of the -Protestant population, which is still loyal to England, whose cause -they have defended for two hundred and fifty years? You would abandon -them to their worst enemies. Would the Catholics at once proceed to -massacre them as they did in 1641? Perhaps not. Still I feel convinced, -that should troubles arise, the lives of the Protestants would be -endangered, but, in any case, you may be sure that the Catholics would -know how to render life intolerable to them.</p> - -<p>“There is another consideration not less important than the former. -From the day that Ireland possesses Home Rule, not a single Englishman -will remain there, it would immediately be followed by a great -emigration of the richer classes. Some would go to the colonies, but -the others, in greater number, would come to England. Some of the -linen manufacturers in Belfast are already making arrangements for the -transfer of their business to the Isle of Man.</p> - -<p>“Work, which is already scarce in Ireland, would then completely -disappear. After the masters’ emigration we should see that of the -workmen, and their influx upon the labour market in England, which is -already overcrowded, would necessarily lead to a serious fall in wages.</p> - -<p>“You now see the probable results of separation from both the social -and economic aspects. Its consequences, from all political and military -considerations, would be still more fatal. In case of war unity is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> -indispensable in a great empire. It was through unity that in our -generation Italy has attained independence; it is through unity -Germany governs Europe. And it is at this moment, when every nation is -realising the necessity of strengthening the links that unite their -different parts, that the proposal is made that we should create on our -own coasts an independent, if not hostile, power....”</p> - -<p>It appears to me that this speech, of which I can only give an epitome, -faithfully reproduces the objections which Englishmen raise against the -Gladstonian Bill. The first effect of the Bill was to throw the Liberal -Party into absolute confusion. A lady whom I met to-day said to me:</p> - -<p>“Really, everything is upside down! My husband was in the House of -Lords; my eldest son is now a member of it; his two brothers sat in the -last House of Commons; my family has always been Liberal. During the -fifty years that I have lived in the political world I have always been -accustomed to see the Tories considered our enemies. And now, thanks to -Mr. Gladstone, we are forced to acknowledge that, for the moment, only -the Tories can save England; and all my sons have entered the field on -behalf of their former adversaries.”</p> - -<p>It is evident that every one whom I have seen is much alarmed. -People are greatly exasperated against Mr. Gladstone, who, in order -to succeed, will not hesitate to provoke a war of classes. The -dissentients who have abandoned him have shown great loyalty to their -new allies, for, in many instances several of them have withdrawn from -the contest, leaving the field open for the Conservatives. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p> - -<p>What will be the result of this struggle? In the general opinion of -all who were present at the dinner the elections would not throw -any light upon the situation. The Conservatives would gain a great -deal, but would not have a majority without the support of some of -the dissentients. Now the latter will vote for them and against Mr. -Gladstone on the question of Home Rule, but they will vote for Mr. -Gladstone and against the Conservatives on every other subject. It will -therefore, if these predictions should be realised, become necessary to -have a third election before long. These are some of the circumstances -in which we admire a parliamentary government.</p> - -<p>Here I leave the English side of the question. To-morrow I start for -Ireland. I am going to live in the country governed by the Land League; -I shall see the principal heads of the Nationalist movement; in their -turn they will explain the situation to me from the Irish side; and -after hearing the <i>pros</i> and <i>cons</i> of the question I will endeavour to -form an opinion.</p> - -<p><i>July 3rd.</i>—I really do not know why London should be described as a -frightful city; but it is the English who speak of it in those terms. -The French are contented to believe the report, and, as a rule, take -care not to go there. For my part I have only visited it two or three -times in my life, and have never remained more than four days at a -time, but I own that I think London is charming. I only find fault with -the distances.</p> - -<p>In Paris one can get anywhere in twenty minutes; here the shortest -drive takes at least half an hour or forty minutes, and yet the cabs -travel faster than our <i>fiacres</i>. But what animation in the streets, -which are nearly all filled with two and sometimes four rows of -carriages<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> following each other uninterruptedly. And, besides, I have a -weakness for the small English houses, which, without any architectural -pretensions, all look so clean and comfortable. Still, the absence of -porches for carriages (<i>portes cochères</i>) must be very inconvenient, -particularly for women. What state must their satin shoes be in when -they are obliged to cross a muddy pavement on a wet evening? We are, -perhaps, a little inclined to exaggerate English comfort. But, really, -when we have seen M. Boulanger’s untidy, bearded army, it is quite -refreshing to look at the fine English soldiers, who walk about the -streets holding a small cane in the hand. We may, perhaps, find fault -with them for looking a little too much like fashion-plates, with their -well-pomatumed hair and their small forage caps stuck over the right -ear, in utter defiance of the most elementary laws of equilibrium; -but it is always advisable that a soldier should take pride in his -appearance. Still, some of them a little exaggerate the effect. But the -Scotchmen—the Highlanders—are my delight. They exhibit their ruddy -calves, and the long plaids that hang from their shoulders, with such -amusing pride. But one should see them in India. A few years ago I was -at Singapore at the same time as a Scotch regiment. We never missed -going to see them parade and drill every evening. There was the officer -passing in front of his troops, stiff, formal, handsome as a god. The -men stood perfectly still, but their grimacing, convulsed features -indicated the revolt of the flesh against discipline; as soon as the -officer had passed the flesh asserted its right; the bayonets waved -like corn shaken by the wind. In defiance of breaking the line all -hastily bent down and furiously rubbed their legs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> which resembled -zebra’s stripes from mosquito bites. It was a splendid sight.</p> - -<p>I was staying at the Alexandra Hotel. From my windows I could see the -fine trees and green lawns of Hyde Park. I occupied the same room -four years ago. But then we formed quite a party, M. de Lesseps, the -Duc de F——, and several others. I can never help laughing at the -recollection of the disaster that awaited us. The promoters of the -Channel Tunnel had invited us to come and see the works, which were -being actively pressed forward, a little, I believe, in the hope of -forcing the hand of the English Government, which did not seem very -enthusiastic about it. At Dover they had invited us to a grand dinner -at the Lord Warden Hotel; and on the following day a special train -conveyed us to the entrance of the tunnel, at the foot of the long -white cliffs by which the railway runs—the “white cliffs of Old -England!” Everybody was in the most delightful humour, except, however, -M. Hervé Mangon, since Minister of the French Republic, who would not -unbend, but threatened a diplomatic representation because he had lost -his portmanteau.</p> - -<p>Small trucks drawn by workmen took us to the end of the long gallery -already excavated. They had reached 1,600 metres from the shore. -Colonel Beaumont’s perforating machine bit heartily into the white -chalk, scarcely firmer than cheese, through which they daily advanced -three or four yards. We emptied a respectable number of champagne -bottles to the success of the enterprise, which to us all seemed so -certain that we treated those who hinted that it could not be opened -under two years as lukewarm partisans. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> - -<p>A magnificent luncheon, served in a tent, awaited us when we came -out. We recommenced drinking the finest champagne. Every one thought -of making his little speech, when suddenly we saw a gentleman arrive, -who handed to the president, Sir Edward Watkin, a paper resembling an -official document. He hastened to open it, and commenced reading it -aloud. It was an order from the Board of Trade, I believe, commanding -that the works should be stopped at once.</p> - -<p>The particulars of this order are amusing. The collection of English -laws is voluminous, for none of them are ever annulled. However, they -had the greatest trouble in the world to find a law that applied to -our case. They were obliged to content themselves with a statute -dating from the Saxon Heptarchy, which “forbade the establishment of -communications with foreign lands.” The punishment threatened by this -statute was not a very agreeable prospect, but one could be sure that -after the sentence was executed the condemned would not protest against -it. For it was clearly explained that first his head would be cut off, -then his body divided into thirteen pieces; and one piece would be sent -to each of the thirteen chief cities in the country, to ornament its -principal gate.</p> - -<p>I remember that when Sir Edward, who did not appear to take all these -details very seriously, reached this point he interrupted his reading, -and piously raising his eyes towards heaven, he exclaimed:</p> - -<p>“I hope that her most gracious majesty, taking into consideration the -small size of her humble subject, will deign to make an exception in my -favour, and allow the number of pieces to be reduced. I fear that some -of the cities would be deprived of their share of me, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> at least the -others would haw a reasonably-sized piece!”</p> - -<p>This reflection provoked peals of laughter from the honourable company, -in which the official who had brought the order joined. He was invited -to sit down, and he also began to drink champagne with marvellous -good will. Sir Edward was not cut in pieces, but the Channel works -were effectively stopped, and God knows whether they will ever be -recommenced. I always think of this story when I see the English -struggling with any difficulties. No one knows how to harmonise their -principles and their interest better than they do. The real reason of -their opposition to this unfortunate tunnel is that they foresee that -its construction would deal a severe blow to their coasting trade. -But since, after two hundred years of close protection, they have now -constituted themselves the apostles of free trade, they cannot possibly -own that these considerations affect them. Others might have been -embarrassed by this affair. They at once discovered the famous old -Saxon law. It is the same thing with American cattle. They begin to -see that agriculture will become impossible in England if cattle are -imported too freely. So they have discovered an admirable method of -arranging matters. Instead of stopping the imports by a Custom House -officer, they employ a veterinary surgeon. The cattle are allowed -to disembark, but as soon as they are landed the sanitary inspector -examines them, declares that they are diseased, and has them killed on -the spot. I feel sure that the English will evade the Irish difficulty -by some duplicity of the same nature.</p> - -<p>After passing my day in driving about, towards six o’clock I went and -sat in Hyde Park to watch the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> carriages and riders passing by. The -latter are much less well cared for than we are in Paris. That dear -Allée des Poteaux is replaced by a straight avenue, about a mile long, -bounded by rails. On each side there is a footpath, and beyond that a -road for the carriages.</p> - -<p>I think that the equipages are much less brilliant than formerly. The -number of imposing, fat, red-faced coachmen, with silk stockings and -powdered wigs, has certainly diminished. However, one still sees a good -many of those fantastic liveries in which Englishmen delight. There are -some in shot-colours; I saw one of pale green, with cuffs, facings, and -collar of red, braided with gold. I fancy, too, that the horses—at -least the carriage horses—are strikingly inferior to the former -standard.</p> - -<p>This is all easily explained. Here, as with us, if not the largest -fortunes, at all events the secondary incomes are seriously reduced. -Commerce is weakened, industry is declining, and agriculture is utterly -ruined. There are no English landowners who have not been obliged -to grant a reduction of 15, 25, and sometimes 50 per cent. to their -farmers; and it appears that in Ireland things are still worse. It is -quite natural that luxury should suffer from this state of things. I -hear that it must even be more affected by and by, and that if there is -still so much outward appearance of wealth, it is because people are -getting into debt. It is the same amongst us.</p> - -<p>Women leave their carriages, and walk on the paths, or pause in groups, -chatting with the riders as they pass. But if the horses have greatly -deteriorated I think that the dresses have considerably improved. Some -of them are charming. Æstheticism has disappeared, or nearly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> so. My -friend Mr. Burnand has very effectually caricatured its eccentricities -in <i>Punch</i>. But, since action always involves reaction, the fashion, -after going to an excess of poetry, is now inclined to fall into the -opposite extreme. Lady Harberton has invented what she calls a divided -skirt; it practically consists of Zouaves’ trousers. Another lady -proposes a Greek costume; not that of Venus, but the arrangement worn -by those antique statues that are really draped. A third suggests yet -another, which perhaps has more chance of being adopted by a certain -class, to whom it might be useful. There is but one button to unfasten, -and it falls off. It appears that all these ladies preach by example, -and have already a fair number of disciples. But I only quote what I am -told, for I have not been fortunate enough to have an opportunity of -judging the effect produced <i>de visu</i>.</p> - -<p>At seven I tore myself away from the contemplation of so much beauty, -and drove to Euston Station to catch the Dublin mail, which leaves -London at 8.20. Towards two in the morning we reached Holyhead, a -small island separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, which is -crossed by a fine bridge. The railway has been brought here because it -is the nearest point to Ireland, and also because this little island -contains a superb port, where vessels find excellent shelter from the -heavy seas of St. George’s Channel. I have rarely seen such fine ships -as the steamers which carry the royal mails. They should be taken as -models when it is decided to replace the tub-like boats still used -between Calais and Dover. The one that brought me over three days ago, -<i>The Maid of Kent</i>, was two hours crossing, although we had splendid -weather. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> distance is twenty-one miles. This brings the speed up to -ten and a half knots an hour. The Holyhead packet reached Ireland from -England in three hours and a half, although it is sixty-three miles. -We therefore made sixteen or seventeen knots per hour—the speed of a -torpedo boat.</p> - -<p>Whenever I chance to be on a ship, I amuse myself with noticing the -changes that have taken place in maritime customs since the time—alas! -already far distant—since I first embarked. I can remember when -the old customs and bluff phraseology were still retained even in -the imperial navy. Commissioned officers scattered a number of very -picturesque expressions amongst their orders, which, although in all -probability religiously handed down from squadron to squadron since -the time of the Bailli of Suffren, would have made a grammarian -shudder at their formation. A hundred times I have heard midshipmen or -lieutenants shout to the men, “<i>Bande de soldats, vas-tu haler sur le -bras de misaine?</i>” Or conversations of this kind: “<i>Combien es-tu dans -la grand-hunc?</i>” “<i>Je suis cinq</i>,” replied a voice from above. “<i>Eh, -bien, reste deux et descends trois.</i>” In moments of great excitement -it frequently happened that a middy, and often even an officer, lent -his aid in hauling in a rope, or to assist in a manœuvre, sending at -the same time a backhander across the face of some Parisian novice, who -pretended to haul and really did nothing.</p> - -<p>Then came the reaction. Old officers were accused of being too free and -easy. A new school replaced them who were stiff and formal in their -deportment; giving their orders in measured tones so that the boatswain -had to repeat them before they could be heard.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> At first this was -called <i>chic Anglais</i>, and some enthusiasts went so far as to command -in English. I knew at least two navy lieutenants, two brothers, who -would have fancied themselves lost had they shouted “<i>Amarrez</i>.” They -always said “<i>Belay</i>,” which is the English translation.</p> - -<p>But the English school triumphed. I am ready to acknowledge its -superiority even whilst I regret the picturesqueness of old times. -Our captain of the Holyhead steamer is a worthy representative of the -former. This morning he managed to get off without a single word, a -perfect triumph of its kind.</p> - -<p>It was only half past two, yet the dawn spread over the waters and -daylight appeared. We are five degrees farther north than Paris, and -this accounts for the short nights. The morning is splendid. In the -distance the horizon is clear, but behind us the English coast is lost -in a thick mist; its outline is only indicated by a succession of -lights that still shine against the sky. On the port side one of them -burns with marvellous brilliancy.</p> - -<p>The entrance to the harbour of Kingstown is extremely picturesque. I -only speak from hearsay. I had made the acquaintance of two or three -pleasant fellow passengers, and we had agreed to remain on the bridge -during the crossing, but at the first movement of the vessel one of -them left us; the two others held up for a little time but at last -they also disappeared. In ten minutes I was left alone, and preferring -to avoid the contemplation of the shapeless forms writhing on deck I -went to bed and enjoyed the sleep of innocence until a steward came -and warned me that we had reached the quay. I went on dock and found -most of the passengers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> already leaving the steamer. A short, extremely -ragged man was threading his way between the groups of passengers, he -wore long fair hair falling to his shoulders. I found that he was a -well-known character. He is a vendor of nationalist papers. Nothing -can be more amusing than the air of triumph with which he pushes the -<i>Freeman’s Journal</i> or the <i>United Ireland</i> in an Englishman’s face -shouting, “Buy the last speech of the Grand Old Man.” For over here -Mr. Gladstone is the “Grand Old Man” only. The <i>United Ireland</i> is to -<i>Freeman’s</i> what the <i>Intransigeant</i> is to the <i>Temps</i>, or rather since -they are both very Catholic, what the <i>Univers</i> is to the <i>Gazette de -France</i>. But even then the comparison is a little incorrect, for the -<i>Univers</i>, even in M. Veuillot’s day, never approached the violent -style of <i>United Ireland</i>. One of its writers indulged in a significant -freak the other day. Mr. Parnell advised the Land League not to make -itself conspicuous for a short time. For some reason they were anxious -to appease England a little. The <i>United Ireland</i> published this advice -in the following words:—</p> - -<p class="center">“<span class="smcap">The Close Season.</span>”<br /> -<br />“<span class="smcap">Art. 1st.</span>—It is forbidden to shoot landlords.”</p> - -<p>This was in the early days of the League, and its agents displayed the -zeal of all neophytes. I remember getting an idea of the state of this -country by hearing a conversation repeated that had taken place between -two Irish children who had come to Paris with their parents. They had -been brought to play with some children belonging to one of my friends. -As they reached the garden, the little boy—aged six—said to the -little girl of seven: </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Wait a minute! I’ll show you a capital game. We’ll play at landlord -and tenant. You shall be landlord and I’ll kill you with my gun.”</p> - -<p>These were the ideas which a small Irish boy had imbibed from his -surroundings in the year of Grace, 1882, upon the normal relations -between landlord and tenant.</p> - -<p>It only takes half an hour to go from Kingstown to Dublin. When I -reached the station I had the pleasure of making acquaintance with the -jaunting car, the favourite carriage with the Irish, who often refer to -it in their novels.</p> - -<p>The jaunting car is certainly the strangest vehicle that an insane mind -ever conceived. The hansom, with its seat placed like a box behind the -hood, is sufficiently original, but when one has seen a jaunting car, -one begins to think that the cab is a rational conveyance.</p> - -<p>Evidently the first idea of the jaunting car suggested itself to an -ingenious man who found himself the owner of an old packsaddle and the -frame of a cart. To utilise these articles he put the saddle on the two -wheels and Erin was dowered with a jaunting car, the only one of her -institutions that the Saxon conquest has respected.</p> - -<p>The coachman seats himself on one side of the rolling saddle. In my -own case he placed my trunk next to him, I installed myself on the -other seat with my feet on a thin plank, which, in case of collision, -protects the wheels at the expense of the traveller’s legs, and we -started at a very good pace to my great satisfaction.</p> - -<p>I must own that I am delighted with this style of locomotion, which -resembles nothing found elsewhere. The Swiss carriages with side seats, -which were used a few years ago, are the only things I can compare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> -them to, and it was in one of those vehicles that the legendary -Englishman drove for three days round the Lake of Geneva, and then -inquired where the lake was; he had not seen it, for he was sitting on -the wrong side and his back was turned to it.</p> - -<p>My first drive in a jaunting car also proved to me that mechanical -laws are the same everywhere. The sentinel who guarded the gates of -the Louvre could not free our kings from their consequences, and in -spite of its power the Land League has no perceptible effect in this -direction. On this occasion at every corner I was seized by an almost -irresistible force, which, taking as its fulcrum the spot a little -below the loins, where Dr. Liouville places the centre of gravity in -the human body, threatened to throw me out upon the pavement. Thanks -to the studies of my youth I recognised in this impulse the force -which learned men call centrifugal, and defying its insidious attacks -I clung to the car with both hands, quite ignoring the fact that I was -outraging all sense of local etiquette. It appears that one must no -more cling to a car in turning corners than hold on by the mane of a -runaway horse.</p> - -<p>The first thing that strikes the attention of a stranger arriving at -Dublin is the tattered state of its inhabitants. When, owing to the -social and economical condition of a country, the majority of its -citizens are unable to afford themselves the luxury of even mending -their clothes, custom really ought to allow them to dispense with -garments entirely, at least in summer. It would be an act of charity -and every one would profit by it. On one hand the eye would not be -offended by the lamentable spectacle of an urchin who has but two -hands with which to hold the tattered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> fragments of stuff that once -formed a pair of trousers; on the other, the said urchin, freed -from his absorbing occupation, might perhaps do some work, which is -manifestly impossible now. I venture humbly to suggest this idea to -those conscientious philanthropists who seek every means of relieving -suffering humanity. But it is not only the street arabs that are -clothed in this way. The art of mending seems absolutely unknown here. -I am sure that I have not seen one person in ten whose garments are not -torn. My driver’s sleeve only holds on to the jacket by a miracle of -good nature, and his trousers are slit from the knee to the ankle.</p> - -<p>At every corner of the street one sees groups of women, their hair -falling round the face, their dresses, full of holes, only reach the -knees, leaving their incredibly dirty feet and legs visible below -their rags. In hot countries poverty matters little. At Cadiz, Naples, -and Cairo we see numbers of people who are certainly quite as poor as -these. But they do not look miserable. The sun supplies nearly all they -need. If it does not feed it comforts them. A Neapolitan <i>lazzarone</i> -may only have eaten a slice of water-melon, but he looks satisfied. -Here, under the cold grey skies, in the muddy streets, these poor -creatures fill one with pity. The drawn faces, the hollow, brilliant -eyes, have a hungry look which makes my heart ache.</p> - -<p>I went and dressed at Shelburne House, the best hotel in Dublin, which -looks over Stephen’s Green, the Hyde Park of the Irish capital. I -then took another jaunting car and drove to the office of the <i>United -Ireland</i>. Most of the heads of the Irish movement are absent from -Dublin just now through the elections, but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> newspaper editors are -naturally at their posts and I wish to make the acquaintance of the two -most important of them—Mr. O’Brien, editor of the <i>United Ireland</i>, -and Mr. Dwyer Gray, editor and owner of the <i>Freeman’s Journal</i>, to -both of whom I have letters of introduction.</p> - -<p>To-day the elections commence. I say commence, because in England -things are not managed in the same way that they are at home. When an -election is about to take place the Queen issues an official notice, -a writ, to each electoral division by a special officer. Committees -are then formed and each candidate must be nominated to the sheriff -within a given time by a specified number of the electors. At the same -time money for the purposes of the election must be placed in his -hands—such as placards, notices, &c. &c. Of course this sum varies, -with the number of voters, but it seldom exceeds more than 120<i>l.</i> or -160<i>l.</i></p> - -<p>If at the expiration of the fixed term only one candidate has been -nominated there is no need to take a ballot. The candidate is declared -elected and the business is settled. If, on the other hand, and -naturally this occurs the most frequently, two or three candidates -have presented themselves in time, the sheriff fixes a date for the -election, which takes place by secret voting, in the same way as with -us, only in a polling booth.</p> - -<p>These formalities are all essential. The omission of a single detail -would render the election void. A certificate bearing the name of a -candidate who has not formerly deposited his nomination is of no legal -value and, the most singular thing is, that a member, whose election -was invalid, is at once replaced by his opponent. I must add that in -case of appeal, the cause is heard, not by Parliament, but in the -ordinary law courts. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> - -<p>This legislation seems to me infinitely more reasonable than our own, -except in a few details. In the first place, it prevents the scandalous -invalidations which we see in France, and which are sure to occur when -they are pronounced by men who are both judges and partisans. The -idea of declaring a candidate elected because he has no opponent also -strikes me as a good one. It may not often happen in France, but it -sometimes occurs, and then what is the use of disturbing a hundred or -a hundred and fifty thousand voters, since the result is a foregone -conclusion and cannot injure any one’s interests? For if a minority -wishes to reckon its strength by rallying round a name, there is no -reason it should not announce its intention by a settled date.</p> - -<p>But these arrangements have only existed a few years. They put an -end to the formidable and legendary abuses of English elections. -They were also effectual in reducing the candidate’s expenses to an -enormous extent. An election amongst our neighbours is now far less -onerous than with us. When the last elections took place in France, the -conservatives spent about one franc upon every registered voter, and -in many departments the republicans far exceeded this amount, thanks -to the enormous sums placed at their disposal by the Government, sums -probably raised from the Tonquin grants. In England the authorised -expenses amount, according to the figures which have been given to me, -to fifty or sixty centimes (5<i>d.</i> or 6<i>d.</i>) per voter. Now the electors -are less numerous than with us, for universal suffrage does not yet -exist, and it appears that these expenses are very little exceeded.</p> - -<p>I had the good luck to find Mr. O’Brien in his office<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> with another -member of Parliament, who had also been elected without opposition.</p> - -<p>Mr. William O’Brien was born at Mallow, in 1852. His career has been -very eventful. After leaving the small college of Cloyne, where he had -completed his studies, he threw himself headlong into Fenianism, whilst -his brother, with a Captain Mackay, won a great reputation in the south -of Ireland by the audacity they displayed in attacking several police -stations, with the object of procuring arms for the insurgents. At -last they were arrested. This Mr. O’Brien died in prison of a chest -complaint, his death being hastened, so they say, by the governor’s -neglect. His father died on the same day—a singular co-incidence.</p> - -<p>William O’Brien then suddenly found himself at the head of a family, -but without any resources. A pamphlet that he published by Captain -Mackay’s advice, won him an appointment to the <i>Cork Daily Herald</i>, one -of the best papers in the south. In 1876 he came to Dublin, and was -attached to the editor’s staff of the <i>Freeman’s Journal</i>. There Mr. -Parnell found him in 1881, and placed him at the head of the <i>United -Ireland</i>, which was just being started as the Land League’s official -newspaper.</p> - -<p>Since this time Mr. O’Brien has waged perpetual war against England, -a war which has doubtless endeared him to his fellow-citizens, for -having succeeded, in 1882, in wresting, by 161 votes against 89, the -seat of Mallow from a Conservative; he has since that date always been -re-elected without opposition.</p> - -<p>No one can pass through a career like Mr. O’Brien’s without making -many enemies; but he must possess<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> very fine qualities, for even his -bitterest opponents acknowledge the perfect respectability of his -life. In every one’s opinion he is a sincerely pious and exceedingly -charitable man. Nearly all the money he earns, and he earns a great -deal, is spent in good works. Last year, at the end of a political -lawsuit, his opponent was sentenced to pay him 1,000<i>l.</i> damages -and interest. With one stroke of the pen he gave it all to charity. -Physically he is rather a small, dark man, who looks older than he -is, in spite of the brightness of his eyes which shine through his -spectacles. He has all the appearance of an enthusiast, and I believe -that he is absolutely convinced of the justice of the cause that he -serves without a mental reservation and with the most absolute devotion.</p> - -<p>I will not record our conversation here, because it differed very -little from the conversations that I had with other chiefs of the Land -League. I prefer to discuss them all together and then sum up the -information that I have collected. If I do not make this rule I shall -repeat myself. When I left the office of the <i>United Ireland</i>, I was -driven to that of the <i>Freeman’s Journal</i>, where I saw Mr. Dwyer Gray. -Mr. E. Dwyer Gray is the son of a man who has played an important part -in the political history of contemporary Ireland, Sir John Gray was -the owner of the <i>Freeman’s</i>, which, even in his time, brought in, so -they say, 200,000 francs, 8,000<i>l.</i>, per annum. When I remember the -trouble our papers have to pay their expenses I cannot understand the -financial prosperity of English and American journals. The <i>Freeman’s</i>, -which, after all, is only a small provincial newspaper, prints forty -thousand copies; its size almost<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> equals the <i>Times</i>; it keeps a staff -of seven shorthand writers in London, who telegraph daily by a special -wire the debates in the House; it publishes very well written foreign -correspondence, yet it brings in a great deal more since it has been -in Mr. Dwyer Gray’s hands than formerly. He opened his political life -as a member of the Dublin corporation, then he became lord mayor, -and afterwards county Carlow returned him to Parliament where, as -a business speaker, he has won a good reputation amongst Parnell’s -colleagues. A converted Protestant, he represents a relatively moderate -element in politics as well as in religion. A few incidents in his -career deserve notice. In his relations with the Municipality he had -an opportunity of discovering the embezzlements of the infamous Carey, -afterwards so sadly notorious through first founding and then betraying -the Invincible Society which assassinated Lord Frederick Cavendish and -Mr. Burke in Phœnix Park, by stabs with a knife. Although Carey was -in the main a co-religionist, he did not hesitate to unmask him, and -even pursued him so energetically that, later on, during the trial of -the Invincibles, it was proved that they had once thought of ridding -themselves of him (Mr. Gray) by murder in order to avenge their chief.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, just then the <i>Freeman’s</i> was engaged in a particularly -violent series of articles against the Government, and on the -evening that preceded the tragedy, the paper contained an unlucky -phrase:—“There are rats in the Castle, which must soon be dislodged!” -In ordinary times no one would have noticed this; but political -passions intervened, and this phrase was at once connected with the -murders that followed it so closely, and the, at all events, moral -responsibility of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> the author was carefully pointed out. Is it -necessary to add that not one serious man ever attached the least -importance to these insinuations?</p> - -<p>I had spent some time in the office of the <i>United Ireland</i>, but I only -remained in the <i>Freeman’s</i> a few minutes, for Mr. Gray, who was very -busy during the day, kindly invited me to spend the evening with him. I -had just seen the organs of what, in the secret government that Ireland -now obeys, corresponds with the legislative power; for the only laws -respected by the country are concocted in these two newspaper offices. -I have now to become acquainted with the executive power, <i>i.e.</i>, the -ministers of the Land League; but I should first like to say a few -words about them.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> - -<blockquote><p class="center">THE LAND LEAGUE—AN IRISH CONFESSOR—CAPTAIN BOYCOTT—A -CONSPIRATOR’S CAVE—MR. HARRINGTON—MR. BIGGAR—THE OBSTRUCTION -CAMPAIGN—MR. SULLIVAN, LORD MAYOR, POET, PATRIOT, STATESMAN, AND -DIVER—A ROUGH ELECTION MEETING—MR. SHACKLETON—A CANDIDATE’S -PROFESSION OF FAITH—PEMBROKE HOUSE.</p></blockquote> - -<p>We will first describe the origin of the Land League. To fully -understand the subject, we must first trace back Irish history to -the year 1847. At that time the population, which in 1845 numbered -8,175,124, had certainly attained, if not exceeded 9,000,000. Then -as now, we may say that no manufactures existed in the country. The -population lived on the direct produce of the land. The repeal of -protection on corn had caused the almost entire disappearance of -cereals, for which the soil, and above all the climate, were always -unfavourable, and consequently, only two possible industries were -left—stock raising (and this was chiefly pig raising), and the -cultivation of potatoes. The sale of pigs sufficed to pay the taxes, -the landlord, and the few necessaries bought by the people. The -potatoes were reserved for food.</p> - -<p>Suddenly the potato disease broke out. In a few days, of a harvest -which promised abundance, absolutely nothing was left, and by one -blow nine millions of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> people were left without anything to eat. This -is the simple history of the famine in 1847. And this history must -inevitably be repeated in every country that transforms its agriculture -into raising stock, and which yet aspires to support the same number -of inhabitants; for it is quite evident that a stock-raising country -cannot feed as many people as an agricultural one.</p> - -<p>This phenomenon had already happened in Scotland at the end of the last -century. The difficulty was solved by the emigration of large numbers -of the Highlanders from several counties. The same thing is now visible -in France; and if we have not yet encountered the same consequences, -it is because our peasants are living, and for some time can still -live, on their capital. In Ireland the people had no reserve fund. The -misery was therefore awful. One can hardly believe that such things can -happen in our century; but it is undeniable that thousands of miserable -people died of starvation in the midst of their fields, just as they -might have done on a wreck in the middle of the ocean. The official -statistics registered 6,058 deaths simply caused by hunger! And the -famine preceded, and was followed by an epidemic of typhus, which -killed thirty or forty thousand persons.</p> - -<p>It has been widely stated that the landowners behaved badly under the -circumstances; they are particularly reproached for having claimed -their rents in spite of their tenants’ terrible misery. But these -accusations have never been proved. The rents had been collected before -the famine began and at a time when no one could have anticipated -its occurrence. But here I will quote Mr. Sullivan, one of the most -advanced members of the Nationalist party, who says in reference to -this subject:— </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> - -<p>“The majority of resident landlords really did all in their power. When -the famine appeared many landowners found themselves on the verge of -ruin. They had inherited property that was already heavily mortgaged. -The money paid for rent did not remain in their hands but went to pay -their creditors. The loss of a year’s rent brought them fatally near -seizure and bankruptcy. They knew this and yet it must be acknowledged -that a great many of them who might have escaped disaster by harshness -towards their tenants, preferred their own ruin.”</p> - -<p>The Government on its side was far from inactive. Works were opened -in all directions for the construction of roads, with the idea of -providing employment for the population, and so many were made that -they cannot be maintained, and yet at the present time I doubt whether -another country exists where roads are more numerous than in Ireland.</p> - -<p>I believe, therefore, it would be just to own that under the sad -circumstances, every one loyally tried to do his duty. It may be said -that the measures taken were insufficient or not cleverly managed, but -it must be remembered that the difficulties were immense, and there is -no proof that any other Government would have been more successful.</p> - -<p>However, the memory of this terrible episode has left ineffaceable -hatred in many minds. Still it did not explode at the time. From 1852 -to 1876, we may affirm that there was a very perceptible and continued -increase in the national prosperity of the country. One point should be -carefully noted, viz., that this increased prosperity coincided with an -enormous diminution of the population. We have seen that in 1845 it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> -numbered 8,175,124; it is estimated that in 1848 it would have reached -nine millions; in 1851 it was only 6,552,385; and in 1881, 5,173,836; -it should now be under five millions. In thirty years, emigration has -reduced the number from nine millions to five, that is by four millions -in round figures. This prosperity was rudely interrupted in 1877, and -once more the misfortune was due to a bad potato harvest.</p> - -<p>If Ireland had still contained nine millions of inhabitants, we should -certainly have seen a renewal of the scenes of 1847; but since she had -only five millions there was no famine, in the real sense of the word, -although the misery was very great; the farmers lost eight hundred -thousand pounds, and those who paid their rent could only do so by -borrowing the money.</p> - -<p>The harvest in 1878 was nearly as bad as the preceding one. The deficit -amounted to five hundred thousand pounds; the situation became more -strained. All the tenants were in debt, for in the preceding years -a number of banks had been established and had given them enormous -credit, and now this credit became more restricted. Many found -themselves on the verge of succumbing, and each one felt that if the -next harvest were not exceptionally good no one could escape ruin. -Anxiety was therefore at its height. And at this critical moment, in -April, 1879, the farmers in county Mayo were summoned to attend a -meeting that ought to have been held in Irishtown. The order of the day -only disclosed that its object was to study the situation. The notices -were signed by Mr. Michael Davitt.</p> - -<p>Mr. Michael Davitt was not quite unknown in the country: his father had -been a farmer there. Being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> unsuccessful in business, he was forced -to abandon his farm, and to go and live in England, where he only -vegetated. At eleven years old his son was already working in a cotton -factory; there one of his arms was cut off by some of the machinery. At -seventeen he had joined the Fenian conspiracy. In 1870 he was arrested. -The Fenians had blown up a prison wall to enable some of their number -to escape. Young Davitt, implicated in this affair through receiving -explosives, was sentenced to fifteen years’ penal servitude.</p> - -<p>However, he only remained in prison for seven years. In 1878 he -received what the English call a <i>ticket-of-leave</i>. The individual who -receives this ticket is set at liberty, but conditionally; he is still -under police supervision, and the Government has the right to imprison -him again without further trial until the end of his sentence. Mr. -Davitt’s case had been widely known. On the day that he returned to -Dublin with one of his fellow prisoners, liberated with him, 300,000 -persons waited for them at the station, and the impression produced was -rendered deeper and more lasting by this man falling dead through the -rupture of an aneurism as he entered the hotel where Mr. Parnell was -waiting for them.</p> - -<p>At this meeting at Irishtown the theory of the Land League was first -explained. Curiously enough, Mr. Davitt first thought of the idea, -but he did not make the first speech—he had missed the train, so -others opened the subject instead of him. In such a centre it could -not fail to receive an enthusiastic welcome. Thanks to an active -method of propaganda, it spread through the country so rapidly and so -successfully that a few months later Mr. Parnell summoned in Dublin a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> -meeting of delegates from all parts of Ireland, who were charged with -drawing up the statutes of the Association, which, under the name of -the <span class="smcap">Irish National Land League</span>, was established on the 21st -October, 1879.</p> - -<p>The general principles which were to guide the Association, are stated -in the following declaration:—The objects of the League are—</p> - -<blockquote><p>I. To obtain a reduction of rack-rents.</p> - -<p>II. To facilitate the acquisition of the land by those who -cultivate it.</p> - -<p>III. To attain these ends the League will undertake—</p> - -<blockquote><p>1st. To create an organisation which will bind all the tenants -together.</p> - -<p>2nd. To defend all those who may be threatened by the landlords -with eviction from their farms, through refusing to pay rack-rents.</p> - -<p>3rd.</p> - -<p>4th. Lastly, to neglect no opportunities of forcing Government to -pass laws allowing the tenant to become the owner of the soil he -cultivates, by means of the payment of an annuity, and under the -most favourable conditions possible.</p></blockquote></blockquote> - -<p>The document was signed by Parnell, President; Patrick Egan, Treasurer; -Michael Davitt and Thomas Brennan, Secretaries.</p> - -<p>Scarcely launched, it required very little to make the League collapse. -Numerous meetings were assembled in all parts of Ireland for recruiting -adherents. Several orators, who were heard there, expressed such -advanced Socialistic opinions, that the clergy, who until then had -watched the proceedings without interfering on either<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> side, now took -fright and protested loudly; one might have thought at one time that -war would break out. If the clergy had persevered in that attitude, -the League would probably have foundered; they would have conquered, -but the people’s minds were already so excited by the struggle that -the clergy must have compromised the preponderating influence that -they always possessed. Besides, the heads of the League hastened to -disown the imprudent words their representatives had uttered. But at -last the name of the Bishop of Cashel appeared one day in the list of -subscribers. All the prelates followed his example, and from that time -the success of the League was insured.</p> - -<p>The clergy have been much criticised for the position they then -accepted. I believe that on the whole it was politic, and has been -productive of good results. It may be considered extraordinary that the -clerical influence should be employed in the service of an association -which furthers its designs by the use of such violent measures; but we -must add, that the League would probably have been a thousand times -more violent had not the influence of the clergy been exercised over it.</p> - -<p>But we must not think that the Irish clergy were constrained and forced -by passing events to enter the Land League. Many of its members had -little difficulty in bringing themselves to join it. Amongst us the -clergy are chiefly recruited from the masses; but whilst on one hand -the Government pays their stipends, on the other they derive their -chief support from the upper classes. Being obliged to conciliate -so many interests or frequently opposing sentiments, they are quite -inclined to be extremely moderate. But in Ireland the position is -very different. The clergy are also nearly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> entirely recruited from -amongst the peasants and small farmers; but, since the upper classes -are Protestant there is no connection between them; nor even between -the priests and the Government, for the latter can do little either -for or against them. The priests have, therefore, all the instincts -of the people from whom they spring, and with whose destiny they -feel their own fate closely bound up. In the conditions of existence -under which they live no preponderating element can exist. Under the -French system there is a very moderate, but at the same time admirably -disciplined, clergy, because everything comes from those above them. -But these advantages are often gained at the expense of their influence -over the people, from whom they are too much separated. Under the -Irish system the clergy have, on the contrary, enormous influence, -and by which their incomes are affected, and they quickly realise -whether there is any danger of this influence being compromised. Only -it frequently happens, when the passions are greatly excited, that -instead of teaching the people the priests are obliged to follow them, -and discipline not having the material authority that it has with us, -these eager temperaments are only restrained by the hands of canonical -obedience, though at the same time these are usually sufficiently -powerful.</p> - -<p>We must not, then, be surprised if the parochial clergy, living in -the midst of a population that was unquestionably suffering great -hardships, and having no connection with the classes whom they consider -responsible for these sufferings, have thrown themselves into the -struggle with frequently exaggerated ardour, or what at all events -seems so to the French, who are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> accustomed to much more reserved -manners in our priests. Some of them allow their enthusiasm to attain -extraordinary dimensions. I was dining, quite recently, with one of -my relations; eight or ten persons were present, and one of them, an -Irish parish priest, was telling us something about the present state -of his country. Very intelligent and full of racy humour, he related -a number of anecdotes illustrative of the prevalent state of feeling, -each droller than the last, and above all full of local colour. He -particularly impressed upon us the sympathy of the clergy for the Land -League.</p> - -<p>“The other day,” said he, “one of my colleagues was playing billiards -with his vicar, when a message was brought to him that a man wanted to -confess to him in the vestry. He immediately went, took his place in -the confessional, and the man commenced the enumeration of his sins.</p> - -<p>“‘My father,’ said he, ‘I confess that three months ago I shot a man -and killed him.’</p> - -<p>“‘Oh, oh!’ thought the priest, ‘this is a serious matter.’</p> - -<p>“He still held the billiard chalk in his hand, and with it made a mark -on his left sleeve.</p> - -<p>“‘Go on, my son,’ he said aloud.</p> - -<p>“‘That is not all,’ stammered the man. ‘Two days later I shot Paddy -Ryan.... But I only wounded him.’</p> - -<p>“The priest made a second mark on his sleeve, and repeated with a sigh:</p> - -<p>“‘Go on, my son.’</p> - -<p>“‘Since that I have shot at Corney O’Sullivan, and then at Tim -O’Flaherty, and then again at Timothy O’Hagan.’ </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p> - -<p>“The priest sprung up in his arm-chair.</p> - -<p>“‘Good heavens, my son! but what had all these men done to you that you -wished to hurry them into eternity? Who were they?’</p> - -<p>“‘Oh, my father! they were all bailiffs or tax-collectors.’</p> - -<p>“‘Idiot!’ growled the priest, furiously rubbing his sleeve. ‘Why didn’t -you say so before, instead of letting me spoil my best cassock?’”</p> - -<p>This story was much relished by the lay guests at dinner. It was less -appreciated by the ecclesiastics present. It is, however, unnecessary -to add that it was related as a good joke; but at the same time, we -quite understood that the joke was intended to give the key to the -present state of feeling amongst many of the Irish priests, and the -narrator added that he was himself the President of the League in his -district.</p> - -<p>When the League was once founded, it was forced to assert its power. It -was rendered particularly popular amongst the tenants, because it had -promised them, if not the abolition, at least the reduction of a great -portion of their rents. Now, the surest method of attaining this result -would be the suppression of competition, so that the landowners, once -convinced that if they withdrew the farms from their present tenants -they would have them left on their hands, should be forced to accept -all the terms their tenants liked to impose upon them. In a speech -spoken at Ennis on the 19th September, 1880, Mr. Parnell undertook to -point out by what means these results could be obtained. Here are his -words, which have since been frequently quoted by those who wish to -make him responsible for the storm they let loose. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Now, you will ask me, what must be done to a tenant who takes a farm -from which another man has been sent away?”</p> - -<p><i>Several voices in the crowd</i>—“<span class="smcap">Shoot Him</span>.”</p> - -<p><i>Mr. Parnell</i>—“I think that some of you answer, ‘Shoot him!’ Now, I -will point out to you another method, which is much more certain, and -which has the advantage of being more Christian and more charitable, -for it gives the sinner time to repent. When a man has taken a farm -from which another has been unjustly driven out, you must, by your -conduct, wherever you meet him, by the isolation in which you will -force him to live, by treating him as formerly lepers were treated—you -must, I repeat, by all these measures, show him the hatred and contempt -you feel for his crime.”</p> - -<p>Historians relate that one day Harlequin gave his three sons two drums, -one large and one small one, and a pair of cymbals, telling them to -amuse themselves with their new playthings, but to be careful not to -make a noise. They add that, in spite of his instructions, his quiet -was rather disturbed.</p> - -<p>Mr. Parnell has unfortunately seen his counsel produce the same result -as those given by Harlequin. He exhorted the crowd by advising them -not to employ any but moral, charitable, and Christian measures. -The crowd obeyed his words, but his instructions were soon left far -behind. At that time, an ex-officer, Captain Boycott, after leaving the -service had settled in Ireland, near Lough Mask. He made agriculture -his business, and also managed estates. He had some difficulty with a -tenant, who would not pay his rent, and he wished to evict him. The -local committee of the Land League in his village, intimated to him -that if he did, it was at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> his own risk and peril. Naturally he ignored -this hint, and war was declared.</p> - -<p>The whole of Ireland watched this affair, with the greatest attention, -for they felt that the future of the Land League depended upon the way -in which it was settled. But every precaution was carefully taken, -every one of Captain Boycott’s servants left him the same day; he went -to the tradesmen in the small neighbouring town who usually supplied -the house, they all refused to serve him. He could not buy either bread -or meat at any price, and for some days he lived on potatoes that he -dug himself, whilst Mrs. Boycott milked the cows.</p> - -<p>The Land League had won the first battle. Public excitement was -intense. Threats having been uttered the Government sent a garrison to -the Captain, and he no longer ventured out without the protection of -four men armed to the teeth. Reporters from every Irish and English -newspaper followed him perpetually. Every morning the public learnt -that on the preceding evening the Captain, guarded by six constables -and accompanied by twelve reporters, had dug two dozen potatoes for -his breakfast. Then they were much interested in a field of beetroot -which ought to be taken up. In Ulster an association was formed, which -sent twenty-five Protestant labourers to his aid; the Government sent a -company of infantry to guard them, not only during their sojourn on the -estate, but also on their journey there and back.</p> - -<p>The beetroots were taken in, but the situation became more strained -every day. One fine morning it was found that all the cows’ tails had -been cut off during the night. The following week two or three bullets -whistled round the ears of the Captain and his escort<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> Then, when they -wished to sell the famous tailless cows, no butcher in the country -would buy them. It was resolved to send them to the English market. But -the railway and steamboat companies were informed that they too would -be laid under an interdict, if they carried them, so they refused to -take them. However, the cows went, but a special boat, chartered by the -Belfast Association, was sent to fetch them. But it is really neither -pleasant nor lucrative to cultivate a farm under these circumstances. -The struggle assumed Homeric proportions. It had lasted for a month or -two when the landlords committed a great error. If they had combined -and subscribed eight or ten thousand pounds to enable the Captain to -carry on the war, they might have gained the upper hand, and the League -would never have recovered from the check; but they did not do it. -The Captain, who had shown marvellous courage, and who only wished to -continue his resistance, was abandoned to his own resources and was -forced to yield. At the same stroke the Land League triumphed, and the -English language was enriched by a new word. The verb ‘to boycott,’ -which expressed the action of interdicting any one, as Captain Boycott -had been interdicted, is now quite admissible. It is commonly used, not -only in conversation but also in judicial and parliamentary language. -For the Land League it was a party triumph. Questionable before this -event, it had now asserted its power so effectually that friends -and enemies were both forced to bend before it. From that day it is -incontestable that the Land League has been the <i>de facto</i> government -in Ireland; at any rate it is the only one whose orders have never been -disputed.</p> - -<p>Like all truly great things, it has a very simple<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> organisation. Every -parish has a committee elected by the unanimous suffrage of all its -adherents; that is to say, of everybody in it, for, in nine-tenths of -Ireland, there is not one man, above all in the country districts, who -dares to refuse joining the Land League, or who neglects to pay his -subscription regularly, although this is never less than one shilling -per month. The parochial committee elects a president, who is often the -parish priest, or even one of the vicars, if the priest is considered -too lukewarm. A county committee is in constant communication, on one -side with the presidents of the parish, and on the other with the -central committee, which meets twice a week at the central office of -the League at Dublin. No one exactly knows how much money is at the -disposal of this committee; but it must amount to a considerable sum. -On one hand the subscriptions are paid very regularly; on the other, -there is not an American city that has not its Irish committee or who -does not send subsidies. I do not know how much the subscriptions -amount to, but some one, whose information is thoroughly reliable, told -me that they had never received less than 4,000 dollars per week.</p> - -<p>But all these funds are used. The League is generous, and it pays well -for the services it receives. One day, three years ago, the Bishop of -Cashel proposed to offer a substantial testimonial to Mr. Parnell as a -token of their public appreciation of his work. A special subscription -was opened, which in a few days brought in 40,000<i>l.</i></p> - -<p>The League first pays a number of agents, who constantly scour the -country to keep up the agitation; it subsidises a mass of newspapers, -and distributes a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> quantity of pamphlets. In the country, it has -recourse, above all, as a means of propaganda, to allegorical coloured -pictures. The <i>United Ireland</i> has just published one which is already -seen everywhere, and which depicts Mr. Gladstone armed with an enormous -sabre, on which “Home Rule” is engraved, with which he is evidently -about to reduce to mincemeat a three-headed hydra, of which each -head has a strong likeness to either Mr. Chamberlain, Lord Randolph -Churchill, or Lord Salisbury.</p> - -<p>We must, however, mention that these funds are never used for election -expenses. The latter are covered by the production of a special -subscription. The <i>Parliamentary Fund</i>, which has already been able, in -the last few days, to send 1,000 dollars (200<i>l.</i>) to every candidate -who includes Home Rule in his programme. I now approach a burning -question. For more than six years the League has governed Ireland. -Since Captain Boycott, many others have been boycotted, and these -interdictions, decreed by the Land League, have led to innumerable -agrarian crimes—that is to say, that a considerable number of men and -women have been assassinated for having infringed the orders of the -League. Sometimes it has been proved that between the murderer and his -victim some private hatred existed; but more often the assassin did not -even know him; the victim was pointed out, and he was paid to commit -the crime. Where did the money come from, and what part has the Land -League played in these sad cases?</p> - -<p>To answer these questions, we must first observe that agrarian crimes -have always been common in Ireland. It is a tradition amongst the -peasants that when tenants<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> have to complain of the landlord, or of one -of his agents, they should subscribe a sum to offer to one of their -number, who undertakes to deal the blow, and is sure of his escape to -America. These peasant customs were honoured for a long time before -the Land League existed. It would therefore be unjust to say that it -created them.</p> - -<p>It is, however, very difficult not to accuse it of a large share of -responsibility for many of the crimes committed. Mr. Parnell, its -President, first invented and recommended boycotting. Now, boycotting -cannot exist unless it is effective, and it cannot be effective unless -all those who are charged with carrying it out are placed under strict -discipline. A rich man who is boycotted would evidently try to induce -the butcher or the baker to furnish him with provisions. He would, if -possible, offer them large sums to tempt them to yield. In order that -this butcher or baker should resist their offers, they must know that -their disobedience will expose them to serious danger.</p> - -<p>Boycotting, therefore, entails absolute discipline, and since there -can be no discipline without authority, it ends in intimidation. Now, -from intimidation to murder there is only one step. The facts prove it. -Mr. Parnell often repeats that the only day that he despaired of the -future, and was on the point of renouncing the struggle, was when he -received the news of the murders at Phœnix Park. This is very possible; -but still, Mr. Parnell cannot deny that his system could not work two -days if murders had not been committed. He blames the assassins, but -profits by their deeds.</p> - -<p>We must, however, acknowledge that the question can be looked at from -another side. It is certain that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> the Irish people are in a state -of war or of rebellion, whichever you like, against England. This -is incontestable. The war is carried on by extraordinary means, but -still it is war. Mr. Parnell is therefore the chief of a belligerent -army. He has regular troops: namely, the official agents of the Land -League; and then he has irregular troops, composed of men who all aim -at the same thing, but who will not submit to any discipline, and who -advance towards their end by whichever road they fancy will lead them -the most directly. In Italy, the Turcos committed some atrocities; -they willingly collected the ears of the Croates left dead or merely -wounded on the field of battle. These atrocities served to found the -legend which rendered them so formidable, and this legend in some -degree assisted to win the battle of Magenta. Marshal MacMahon was -absolutely incapable of cutting off an enemy’s ears whether he were -dead or wounded. He never gave any Turco the order to commit these -abominations; he would certainly have punished any man who did it in -his presence; but who can tell the influence these ears had upon the -battle of Magenta where the general found a field-marshal’s baton and a -coronet?</p> - -<p>But it is certain that side by side with the Land League there -are several secret societies existing, which have usually their -head-quarters in America. They are or were under the direction of -the notorious O’Donovan Rossa, and it is almost proved that these -societies instigate many of the crimes which are committed. But, even -whilst admitting, what I believe to be true, that the Land League never -directly recommends attempts at manslaughter or attacks on the person, -it can be reproached because it has hitherto expressed so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> very little -censure of such crimes after they have occurred. With the enormous and -varied resources at its disposal, it would be very easy for the League -to bring the guilty to justice, and by so doing it would completely -silence its accusers; but this it has never yet attempted.</p> - -<p>The office of the Land League is at 43, Upper O’Connell Street. Here I -must again make an observation: this street, one of the most important -in Dublin, is in reality Sackville Street. One day, on its self-created -authority, I do not know for what reason, unless it was simply to -assert its omnipotence, the League decided that it should bear the -name of the great Irish agitator. Since that event there is not a car -driver who does not pretend that he does not understand where you -mean when you ask for Sackville Street. I have been told this quite -seriously, but I have not been able to verify it as a fact; so that I -only mention it as a statement made to me. When I enter the office I -seem to be in a ministerial department. I was shown into a room where -five or six people were writing; one of them took my card, and asking -me to wait for his return, carried it to Mr. Harrington, the general -secretary. Busy men passed to and fro, with papers they had brought -for signature; an elderly white-haired man danced attendance with me. -We began to talk. He was an Australian doctor, who had brought funds -from a committee at Melbourne; I was at once filled with respect for -an establishment, where they even kept a man waiting who brought them -money.</p> - -<p>At last I was informed that Mr. Harrington could see me. I found him -in a large lofty hall ornamented with allegorical pictures; three or -four secretaries were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> seated round a table covered with a green cloth, -opening letters and coming forward every moment to ask for instructions -or to bring piles of telegrams, which arrive from all quarters. I -own that all this made me feel thunderstruck. Here is an Association -that openly conspires against the established Government, and that -everywhere declaims against its odious tyranny. And yet the offices -occupy a whole house within two steps of the Viceroy’s palace; it has -a badge over the door so that no one could mistake it, and a policeman -walks up and down the pavement to keep the carriages in their ranks. -What a difference between this imposing establishment and the dark -cave where all classical conspiracies are formed! And yet some people -deny that we are progressing! Unfortunately it appears to me that this -fact alone suffices for the undeniable condemnation of the English -Government. It asserts that these people are rebels and assassins. -How then can it allow itself to be defied by them in this way? The -first duty of every government is to carry out the law and to protect -peaceful citizens. When it does neither of these things it must be -nearly at its end, and it is even right to wish that its end may come -as soon as possible, in order to make room for another administration -which will better realise its duties.</p> - -<p>Mr. Harrington was born at Bantry, in the south of Ireland; four years -ago he superintended a local publication named the <i>Kerry Sentinel</i>, -and which naturally waged perpetual war against the English Government. -From time to time the Administration has spasms of severity which -are disastrous, because just as this severity is likely to become -efficacious it is abandoned for a return to gentler measures. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> - -<p>One day it thought it desirable to prosecute Mr. Harrington, who had -not said one word more nor less than two or three thousand others had -said. He was sentenced to two months imprisonment and confined in -Mullingar gaol. Whilst working out his punishment he had an altercation -with the governor and was condemned to six days in the cells. This -caused some excitement. At the same time the member for Mullingar was -obliged to resign his seat, though I do not know for what reason, and -Mr. Harrington was thereupon elected in his place.</p> - -<p>I have had something to do with French conspirators, though as little -as possible, but still I have had some intercourse with them. They are -nearly all, physically as well as morally, rough and unwashed, clinging -to their principles as though they were stilts; in fact, insufferable. -There are a few amiable sceptics who shave and wash themselves -sometimes, but they do it with such visible affectation, that after all -when one meets them one begins to regret they are not like the others.</p> - -<p>The conspirators in this country appear to me a hundred degrees above -ours. They never shave, but that I believe is a professional necessity. -I have read in many classic works that the conspirators of former -ages had the habit of forging swords out of their chains. Since in -the present century chains are no longer used, they apparently forge -them out of the steel of their razors. You therefore never see a stage -conspirator without a formidable beard. All the Land Leaguers that I -have yet seen wear them; but their beards are well kept, and their -owners are as amiable and gracious as possible. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p> - -<p>Mr. Harrington is far from being an exception to this rule. When I -told him that I expected to visit first the south of Ireland, his -own county, he hastened in the kindest way to place himself at my -service, and offered to give me all the letters of introduction that -I could possibly require; he particularly promised me one for the -local president of the Land League, at Castle-Connell, a letter, which -could, if necessary, be used as an introduction to all the others. He -at once dictated what was requisite to one of the secretaries, who a -few minutes later brought the letter for his signature. It was written -on magnificent crested paper with quite an official appearance. At our -Admiralty, the chief of the staff always conducted his business in a -similar style. I certainly am in a minister’s office.</p> - -<p>From time to time some political notoriety came in to inquire what -was going on, and I was fortunate enough to be introduced to two of -them—men of whom I had often heard.</p> - -<p>The first was a small deformed man with sparkling eyes. This was Mr. -Biggar, formerly a bacon factor in Belfast, who, having launched -into politics, has become the <i>fidus Achates</i> of Mr. Parnell and -his friends, and one of the creators of the well-known “sore” (I -cannot find any more suitable expression) that is usually called the -Obstruction campaign.</p> - -<p>In 1881, the Government, seized with one of those paroxysms of firmness -to which I have already referred, and wishing to re-establish a little -order in Ireland, demanded from Parliament, not the proclamation of -a state of siege, but simply powers which would enable them to act -rather more rapidly than the ordinary form of procedure would allow -of. This is what is meant by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> <i>Coercion Bill</i>. Mr. Parnell and his -friends, whom it was really intended to affect, were naturally anxious -that this bill should not pass; but, being only a very small minority, -they had no regular means of checking or preventing its progress. They -therefore had recourse to tactics, which they had already used on -different occasions, but in a less complete way. In the absence of any -written rules, the English Parliament only obeys traditional customs. -One of these customs is, that when a member is speaking he can continue -as long as he likes, and an adjournment cannot be moved before all -the members have spoken who have in writing given notices of their -intention to move amendments.</p> - -<p>At this time there were eighteen Nationalist members in the House. -It was arranged that each of them should propose an amendment on -every clause, and that each of them should not only support his own -amendment, but also the motions of the other seventeen, each member -speaking as long as his strength would allow. They had already tried -this little game in 1877, and they had succeeded in making one sitting -last twenty-four hours consecutively.</p> - -<p>But they were determined to do better next time, and they kept their -word. They commenced by protesting against the mere idea, that the -state of Ireland justified the adoption of special measures; they -asserted that far from getting worse, the situation was visibly -improving; every one must know that in December, 1880, there were -867 agrarian crimes; but in January, 1881, there were not more than -448. And what crimes! In the first fortnight of the year, there was -not a single murder. It was true that four houses had been attacked; -two men had been shot at, but they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> were not hurt; only one person -had been rather seriously beaten, but it was not even suggested that -his life was in danger! It must be remembered that all this was said -quite seriously. I have copied these details from a book that Mr. -Gray recommended to me for its veracity, and which was written by Mr. -O’Connor, one of his parliamentary colleagues, the title of the book -is <i>The Parnell Movement</i>. The discussion thus commenced was continued -in the same tone; an Irish member rose and proposed an amendment, -no matter what it was, then he commenced to speak on no matter what -subject. One of them recited some verses, another commenced to read -an old collection of laws. In England Parliament sits in the evening; -a sitting commenced on Monday evening was prolonged through the whole -of Tuesday and far into Wednesday night. The two parties had organised -relays; on each side of the House only twelve members were left lying -on the benches, and the sole interruptions they offered to the orator, -was the sounds of their snoring; one old member being rather delicate, -brought a blanket for the second night.</p> - -<p>Irish eloquence still flowed on. At a quarter to five on Wednesday -morning, Mr. Sexton began to speak, and continued his speech until -twenty minutes to eight o’clock. Mr. Leamy replaced Mr. Sexton; then -followed Mr. Biggar, who had been home to bed and had just come back. -He commenced his speech by saying, with a pleasant smile: “Perhaps I’m -trespassing on the patience of the House.”</p> - -<p>Some one, who had just awakened, replied as he stretched himself:</p> - -<p>“No, no!” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> - -<p>And, encouraged by these friendly words, Mr. Biggar continued.</p> - -<p>But at nine o’clock <span class="smaller">A.M.</span> the Speaker entered. During the night -a meeting of principal members of the Tory Opposition had been convened -by the Government. They all agreed that it was high time to end the -scandal, and having arranged the course to be pursued, the members were -hastily summoned by the Whips, and re-entered in crowds.</p> - -<p>Mr. Biggar still went on; but the Speaker, without apparently noticing -that he was speaking, suggested that the House should adjourn.</p> - -<p>Mr. Biggar uttered cries of “Shame,” “Order,” &c., but the Nationalists -were not then present in force. Mr. Parnell himself was absent. The -adjournment was moved amidst the hurrahs of the whole House, and Mr. -Biggar was forced to content himself with calling upon the people to -witness the abominable tyranny of which he was the victim.</p> - -<p>The eighteen endeavoured to re-commence that evening; but at the first -words pronounced by one of them, the House rose in a body and voted for -their expulsion.</p> - -<p>All this is certainly very droll; but what can be gained by these -childish tricks? The Irish demand the establishment of a National -Parliament at Dublin. What will they do if the Protestant members -from Ulster use towards the majority the same tactics they—the -minority—have so constantly employed in London? Many of them dream -of the establishment of a Republic. They need only cross over to -France to see how Republican assemblies treat the representatives of a -minority. Under the first Republic they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> guillotined them purely and -simply. In our days, they have invented special bye-laws for their -benefit. Perhaps in a few months Mr. Biggar will preside over an Irish -House of Commons. It will be curious to see how he will deal with -obstructionists.</p> - -<p>The other politician to whom I had the honour of being introduced -during a visit to the offices of the Land League is Mr. Sullivan, the -Lord Mayor of Dublin. Mr. Sullivan, a tall, thin, elderly man, with a -proud intelligent face, is an author. It is said that he has published -a volume of poetry, which was a great success. Unfortunately, I have -not read it.</p> - -<p>How different public customs are in this country from our own! A -morning paper related that yesterday the Lord Mayor, accompanied by -the Town Clerk and a deputation of eight members of the Corporation, -went to open some public baths that the Town Council have just built -in Tara Street. The inauguration was thus completed:—His Lordship -having considered it was part of his duty, took a header into the -bath; Mr. Beveridge, the Town Clerk, did the same; then these two -gentlemen challenged each other, and the enthusiastic crowd watched -a most interesting swimming race. Was the Town Clerk only a base -flatterer? I cannot say. But, at all events, the Lord Mayor won by a -length. The <i>Freeman’s</i>, which complacently reported this exploit, has -unfortunately omitted some of the details we should like to have known. -Did the Lord Mayor take off his curled wig? Did he wear drawers of -the national colour? And was there a white harp to relieve the green -foundation? Why did not the mace-bearers follow their chiefs? This -would all be interesting information, which he should have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> given; yet -the writer of the article has neglected to mention these details.</p> - -<p>I had a long conversation with one of these diving magistrates. -Unluckily I could not congratulate him upon his aquatic success, for I -did not hear of it until after our interview. From him, too, I asked -for an explanation about the real grievances of Ireland against the -present government by England; I say <i>present</i>, because I quite admit -the validity of old complaints. I am absolutely convinced that in the -last and even in the commencement of this century, England treated -Ireland abominably. The stories of confiscation do not touch me at all; -they happened from four to eight hundred years ago. If it is still -maintained that a title of four hundred years is not sufficient to -constitute a right of ownership, it would become necessary to search -for the titles of the people who were then dispossessed, and this might -take us some time. Had I lived in the time of the French Republic, or -even of the Empire, it would have been my pleasure and my duty to send -a bullet through the head of the man who had bought my family property -from the nation; but I can now look at their descendants without any -rancour, because everything ends in this world.</p> - -<p>But to return to Ireland. I ask every one what are the actual -grievances, and in what way can <i>Home Rule</i> ameliorate the situation? -Here are the exact words in which the Lord Mayor answered this question:</p> - -<p>“For a long time Mr. Gladstone, the grand old man, has felt what we -needed in Ireland. And this is why the Tories (who hate us) are so -indignant with him, that if to-morrow a tiger were to escape from a -menagerie<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> and to devour him; there is not one Tory who would not -exclaim ‘Thank God!’</p> - -<p>“At last he has found courage to say aloud that which he has always -really thought—we require <i>Home Rule</i>; and now, thank God, we shall -get it!</p> - -<p>“You say: But why should it be to England’s interest to see Ireland -unprosperous? That is true. But would you like to be governed by -Prussians? God never intended that one nation should submit to another! -This is so true that a conquering nation, merely from the fact that it -has conquered, is powerless to do good!</p> - -<p>“But we certainly do not anticipate that Ireland will attain prosperity -in one day, solely because it is governed by Irishmen. England has -killed all our industries; we require time before they can be revived. -We may perhaps make some mistakes. But whilst waiting for prosperity we -shall bear our sufferings and our poverty more cheerfully, knowing that -the amelioration of our fate only depends upon our own exertions.</p> - -<p>“And besides this, the mere fact of the proclamation of Home Rule would -have considerable influence over our material prosperity. You Frenchmen -have no idea of the cavilling fiscal spirit which animates the English -administration. All our towns are in a state of tutelage; our smallest -expenses must be authorised; a special law is required before a loan -can be raised, and the charges for the formalities that must be gone -through before these laws can be obtained, are so high, that the cost -is at once augmented to a disastrous extent.</p> - -<p>“I can quote a recent instance of this. A short time ago we wished to -lay water on to the town. The estimate was for 21,000<i>l.</i> Before we -could obtain the necessary Act we had to spend 9,000<i>l.</i> in London. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Even whilst admitting that quite as much might have had to be paid -in any other country, at least the money would have remained in the -country, whilst now, this 9,000<i>l.</i> only enriched the London barristers -and lawyers, and was quite lost to Ireland.”</p> - -<p>I trust that Mr. Sullivan will forgive me for saying that his first -sentences reminded me of Victor Hugo’s style. The others contain an -objection that may be well grounded up to a certain point.</p> - -<p>Yet I am struck with two things. In the first place, I never heard -the English administration blamed for excessive centralisation before -to-day. I always thought that, on the contrary, its chief failures were -due to excessive decentralisation. But in return I quite believe it to -be, if not venal, at all events very expensive. In England everything -is made an excuse for a fee, a word which means emolument, but which -also slightly conveys the sense of “<i>tip</i>.” Amongst us, officials are -absolutely prohibited from accepting anything whatever from the public. -In England it is quite understood that, besides their salaries—which -are very handsome—it is even legal that officials should claim -remuneration for services, which, according to our notions, should be -quite gratuitous.</p> - -<p>This remark even applies to officers! Some years ago I saw the captain -of an English merchant vessel come on board a French man-of-war, and -ask permission to compare their chronometers with ours. The officer in -charge of the watch hastened to render him this small service, and was -quite astonished when, after the examination was over, the Englishman -gravely handed him a sovereign, whilst the Englishman appeared still -more surprised when the Frenchman refused the money<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> rather hastily. -It seems that English officers consider gratuities are perfectly -legitimate.</p> - -<p>Another instance happened at Shanghai. The Taïping army menaced the -city. The bankers fearing a night attack asked the French and English -captains to take charge of their cash on board in order that it might -be safe; a favour that was at once granted. Only, when after some days -all danger was past and the bankers sent for their money, those who had -confided it to the English men-of-war were quite surprised to receive -with it a rather heavy bill.</p> - -<p>There is neither robbery nor even indelicacy in all this, for it is -quite openly done. Still a French officer who acted in this way would -be boycotted by his comrades and brought before a court-martial by his -minister. I only quote these incidents to show how much the English -views upon many points differ from our own, and to explain how with -such a well-established system of fees the smallest step may become -onerous.</p> - -<p>However, to return to the Lord Mayor’s business; it seems to me -preposterous that 9,000<i>l.</i> should have to be expended before -permission to spend another 21,000<i>l.</i> can be obtained. With us, this -permission would be only too easily granted gratuitously, particularly -if it referred to the formation of an Academic group. It is certain, -that if the Irish must give 9,000<i>l.</i> to barristers, it would be -better, for the welfare of their country, that this substantial -windfall should fill Irish pockets instead of benefiting English -counsel as it now does; and the Irish expect to attain this result -by having a Parliament of their own at Dublin. But why should it be -necessary to spend 9,000<i>l.</i>? It seems to me, that by changing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> the -method of procedure, by making it resemble ours, for instance, economy -could be easily secured. The Lord Mayor’s argument proves that there -are reforms to be made, and this no one denies; but they do not prove -that in order to make these reforms it is indispensable to go as far as -separation.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>“Ce n’était pas la peine,</div> -<div>Non, pas la peine assurément,</div> -<div>De changer de gouvernement,”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>says worthy Madame Angot, who was certainly no fool.</p> - -<p>Whilst making these reflections <i>in petto</i>, I took leave of his -lordship, who is more perfect than good King Henry himself, for, -according to the old song, he had only three accomplishments, whilst -the <i>Freeman’s Journal</i> unhesitatingly attributes four to Mr. Sullivan, -since in the article I alluded to just now his position as a “diver” -is established, and he is also called the “poet,” “patriot,” and -“statesman” several times. He looks a thoroughly honest man, and yet -the information that he gave has not explained Home Rule to me.</p> - -<p>The remainder of my day was spent in several other calls, which I -will mention in their proper place. They gave me an opportunity of -exploring the city, which seems immense. In reality it has 249,000 -inhabitants. The streets are superb and relatively clean; there are -several fine monuments, and one or two charming parks; but the city -is spoilt by the miserable expression worn by every one I meet. When -I ended my conversations with the chiefs of the Land League, I felt -almost converted to English doctrines; but the sight of these miserable -faces drew me back to the Land League. It is really impossible to -leave things as they are. When,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> during the day, I saw people who had -evidently neither breakfasted that morning nor dined the day before, -and who had absolutely no reason for supposing that they would be -more fortunate to-morrow, it seemed incredible, and I could not help -remembering the contemptuous air which Englishmen assume when they -allude to what passes in view on the Continent.</p> - -<p>Mr. Gladstone’s first political action was a letter in which he -denounced King Ferdinand of Naples to all Europe. This document said -that he deserved to lose his crown because he did not know how to -govern his people. I do not see that Mr. Gladstone has succeeded much -better. It is not enough to blame others; one must do better oneself. -I have seen all the worst parts of Naples; I have seen the <i>ghetto</i> -at Rome; both are, or rather were, charming localities if we compare -them to a part of Dublin that I passed through to-day, called the -“Liberties.” The only liberty that seems left to the inhabitants is the -liberty of remaining unwashed and of dying by starvation. This district -was peopled by a colony of French Huguenots, who introduced the poplin -industry, which has now almost disappeared, but which at one time -employed four thousand workmen. If these unfortunate people whom I saw -this morning are really the descendants of our fellow-countrymen, I can -only advise them to try a second emigration. I quite understand that -the results of the first may not encourage them to attempt a second, -but they have nothing to lose by a change now.</p> - -<p>Here we see the great misfortune of this country. No industry that has -been established here has been able to last: there is neither coal nor -iron. How can they compete with England under these circumstances? </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> - -<p>When I say that all industries have collapsed I am mistaken. One of -them is a great success. It belongs to Mr. Guinness, a brewer, whose -establishment now occupies nearly one district in the west of the -city, on the banks of the river, with which it communicates by means -of a tunnel made under the quay, which serves for the delivery of the -barrels of beer on to the barges anchored in the muddy bed of the -Liffey.</p> - -<p>What an illusion the Liffey is! From the treacherous words of the Irish -poets I had expected to find a superb river. I only saw a filthy ditch.</p> - -<p>Mr. Guinness’s industry only prospers because everything that these -unfortunate people earn is spent in drink. The Catholic priests, in -spite of all their influence, cannot eradicate the vice of drunkenness, -which is so deeply rooted in all northern populations. To-day, -whilst passing through a fairly important street, I noticed a house -with <i>Temperance Hall</i> painted in large letters above the door. In -the window were hanging publications and pictures antagonistic to -insobriety. But on the steps lay an old woman who had fallen there -quite tipsy. Her grey hair fell over her stupefied face. One could see -her skeleton legs through the holes in her dress. A younger woman, -probably her daughter, a little more sober, but still scarcely able -to stand, tried to persuade her to continue on her way. The old woman -would not listen, but rolled helplessly on the pavement. At last the -woman staggered off. What an eloquent commentary upon the sermons -placed in the shop-window!</p> - -<p>Two election meetings are announced for to-day. Mr. Gray is to speak at -the first, which will be held in the city: but as I had told him that I -should be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> delighted to see an election where a little noise was made, -he advised me not to attend his, but to go instead to the one that -would be held in the Town Hall at Rathmines, a large borough in the -outskirts of Dublin, where they expect rather a tumult. Yesterday there -was a very stormy meeting at the University, which returns two members. -The Nationalist candidate, who, it is admitted, has not the shadow of -a chance, was very badly treated by the students. They threw at him a -dead cat, seventeen rotten eggs, one of which broke in the face of a -courageous lady who had accompanied him on to the platform, and such -a number of cabbage stalks that the most conscientious reporters were -forced to give up the attempt to count them. At last he was forced to -beat a retreat.</p> - -<p>Now, it appears that the students, proud of their success yesterday, -intend trying to disperse the meeting at Rathmines, or, at least, to -make a disturbance there. Everything, therefore, points to an evening -full of incident. It will be rendered doubly interesting because it is -organised by the “Protestant Home Rule Association,” that is to say, -by the few Protestants in the country who have joined Mr. Parnell—by -the way, he is a Protestant himself—and who have now entered on the -campaign in favour of Home Rule. They declare that, far from being -alarmed, as the English often assert that they are, at the idea of -being abandoned to the Catholics without some protection, some of the -Irish Protestants are so convinced of the sentiments of justice and -benevolence, or at least of tolerance, which animate the majority of -their fellow countrymen, that they are among the most eager to demand -separation.</p> - -<p>A jaunting-car conveyed me in less than half an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> hour to the door of a -very simple building, which is the Town Hall of Rathmines. If England’s -tutelage, complained of by the Lord Mayor, has only the effect of -recalling to the minds of the municipal architects the simplicity of -style they so frequently lose sight of at home, this tutelage can -scarcely be considered absolutely injurious. The street is already -blocked by the crowd. Apparently the police are under the impression -that there will be some work for them, for a hundred policemen are -grouped in one corner, ready to interfere when necessary, but content -to look on for the present. Some strong young men wearing a green -badge, act as stewards and guard the doors. Every one desiring to -enter must show a personal invitation. These cards have been sent out -during the day. I have only an envelope signed by Mr. Gray. At first, -therefore, I encountered some difficulties, because the signature was -almost illegible; but as soon as it was recognised, one of the stewards -gave me a formidable slap on the shoulder, exclaiming: “Bedad, sorr, -with that name there isn’t any door in Ireland that wouldn’t be open to -you!”</p> - -<p>I explained to him that for the moment my sole ambition was to find a -place where I could see well, and above all hear well. My friend at -once told me to follow him; pushing through the crowd like a boar, -hustling every one that stood in his way, and in five minutes I find -myself on the platform, two steps from the president, and quite close -to a window; a very advantageous position, because, first of all, I -could get a little air, and secondly, if the tumult became too serious, -a small jump of seven or eight feet would enable me to gain a small -side lane; and this I determined to do, if<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> necessary, without the -least hesitation, for it would be too stupid to allow myself to be -knocked down by a Nationalist, wounded by a student, or simply led off -to the station by a policeman, all for the honour of “Ould Ireland,” -although my martyrdom could not help her in any way.</p> - -<p>When I had once formed my plan of campaign, I began to look about me. -There was evidently electricity in the air. The hall could hold about -three or four hundred people; a hundred-and-fifty or two hundred were -crowded in a small gallery above the door, yet formidable pressure -still took place from time to time, and on each occasion a fresh stream -of people penetrated into the hall, and the new arrivals pushed forward -against those who had entered before them. It was intensely hot, and -already a good many present had taken off their coats. In order to -pass the time they yelled out a patriotic song, commencing with <i>God -Save Ireland</i>, which was accompanied from the street by an orchestra -composed of five or six fifes and as many drums.</p> - -<p>A few minutes later, a grey-haired gentleman rose quite near to me and -advanced to the front of the platform, where he was joined by a short, -deformed man with long hair. I don’t know where he came from. Instantly -there was a great silence, and the former bowed to the assembly.</p> - -<p>“Gentlemen,” said he, “seconded by my friend, Mr. Shackleton,”—Mr. -Shackleton—that was the little hunchback—bowed, in his turn, so -low that his hump appeared higher than his head. The applause was -enthusiastic. Evidently this is an important personage. He is the -second hunchback I have seen in the Land League.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> Mr. Biggar, like -Æsop, had only one hump; this man has two, like Punch. The tall speaker -is called Mr. Alfred Webb. He continued:</p> - -<p>“Seconded by my friend Abraham Shackleton, and in the name of the -<i>Protestant Home Rule Association</i> I wish to ask your support for our -candidate, Sir Thomas Esmonde, Baronet, who already represents the -electoral division of South Dublin.”</p> - -<p>This declaration was received with a tremendous noise. Every one stood -up, hats flew into the air, or were waved at the end of enormous -blackthorn sticks that are here called shillalahs, mouths opened like -ovens, and gave vent to hurrahs that made the hall shake. The voters -in the gallery thumped with all their force on the wooden balustrade, -making it resound like a drum. My eyes were fixed on a short man, -standing in front of me; he shouted and gesticulated so violently that -I expected he would be seized with an epileptic fit. After a moment he -evidently broke something in his throat, for with a despairing gesture -he indicated that his voice would not come again, and, red as a tomato, -he sank upon a bench to recover his strength.</p> - -<p>The same accident probably happened to several others, for comparative -silence ensued. Unfortunately, some one took advantage of it to cry: -“Boys! Three cheers for the Grand Old Man!”</p> - -<p>The “Grand Old Man” is Mr. Gladstone. Some years ago they called him -“the old scoundrel.” Now he is called the “Grand Old Man” but the usual -pronunciation is not sufficiently emphatic. It must be pronounced very -slowly: g-r-r-r-r-and, with four or five r’s, ôld with three circumflex -accents on the ô, and two on mân. Any other pronunciation lacks -respect. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> - -<p>The quite novel idea of cheering “the Grand Old Man” made every one -recover his strength. One gentleman in the gallery gave the signal by -attempting to demolish the balustrade with his shillalah and the nine -hurrahs broke out like a peal of thunder. Their enthusiasm was so great -that when it ended one voice cried, “Once more,” and they recommenced.</p> - -<p>But human strength has its limits, and I saw with pleasure that they -were nearly exhausted. The second volley of hurrahs is not so hearty as -the first. At last their throats could only utter inarticulate sounds; -in spite of the efforts betrayed by their distorted features aphony was -rapidly approaching.</p> - -<p>The orators grouped near to me on the platform evidently awaited this -result. One of them rose and began to speak. He first alluded to the -meddling of the Court with the elections. He had scarcely launched into -his subject before a young man suddenly rose at the back of the hall. -“Long live the Queen! Down with the rebels!” he cried in a clear voice. -Two or three other voices responded. It was the students who had just -entered, but their arrangements were badly planned. Their adversaries -had taken every precaution, and very few students had succeeded in -slipping into the room.</p> - -<p>The tempest was unchained, a forest of cudgels waved overhead. The -students made an heroic defence, but in less than a minute they were -overpowered, picked up and thrust out amidst growls resembling those of -wild beasts.</p> - -<p>However, the affair was not yet over. In the streets their friends -attempted a diversion. The music which had recommenced ended in a -despairing scream. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> heavy blow had broken one musician’s instrument -in his face and the others took to flight. Some curious fights took -place under my window; the combatants, so far as I could judge, seemed -to display very serious and profound knowledge of the principles of -the noble art of boxing, for in the twinkling of an eye I saw two -or three noses broken. “A very illigant foight! Is it not, sorr?” -said one of my neighbours, addressing me; he evidently considered it -would be a personal favour if I declared myself anti-nationalist so -that he might have the opportunity of commencing an equally “illigant -foight” with me. I took care not to give him this satisfaction; on -the contrary, I declared that I thought the fight most “illigant.” I -begin to understand Irish very well, and even to speak it a little; -it suffices to change most of the e’s into i’s and all the i’s into -oi’s—for instance one must never say Ireland but “Oirrlande.” With -these precautions progress is very rapid.</p> - -<p>The students are decidedly not in force. In less than five minutes -the incident is over, every one returns to his place, and the orators -peacefully continue their speeches.</p> - -<p>Most of them say very little; they are only the supernumeraries, the -important topics are reserved for a little later on. The appearance of -the hall is the interesting and instructive spectacle. The meeting is -evidently composed of men belonging to the lower middle class; they are -shopkeepers or clerks. There are a few torn jackets, but very few; in -such an assembly one ought to find comparative moderation, but on the -contrary, all these men seem really and unquestionably exasperated. -When, just now, the students shouted “Long live the Queen,” and when -since that an orator<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> has pronounced her name, hisses and groans were -heard on all sides. I consider this is one of the most serious aspects -of the situation. Mr. Gladstone, once a constitutional minister, has -assumed a revolutionary attitude; he has stripped the throne of its -“divinity,” the name of the Queen is now treated with more contempt -than the names of her ministers. The speakers, to do them justice, -make no effort to excite this feeling; they constantly refer to <i>Home -Rule</i>, but when they allude to the idea of absolute separation, or -to a republic, they do so in terms which indicate that they will not -even honour the question by discussing it. Do orders, resulting from -political calculation, produce this state of things, or does it proceed -from real conviction? I cannot tell, I can only state the fact; but -I must also own that their contemptuous words were not echoed by the -crowd. At last the candidate rose. Sir Thomas Esmonde is quite a young -man, it appears that he is twenty-three, but he does not look more than -eighteen or twenty. It is said that his fortune is very much reduced, -and his family, which is far from adopting the same political views, -and which now refuses to meet him, explains that it is with the hope of -recovering his position that he has thrown himself into the arms of the -League with so much enthusiasm.</p> - -<p>This is another sign of the times. Formerly in England political -opinions had no influence over social relations. It is said that a few -years ago when Mr. Labouchere, widely known as the editor of <i>Truth</i>, -was presented to the Prince of Wales, he, with an amiable smile said, -“No doubt your Royal Highness is aware that I am a red republican.” -This is quite possible in a country where the theories of social -distinction not only have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> never been practised, but even seem never -to have any chance of being applied. In an English drawing-room one -may come into pleasant intercourse with a gentleman who explains that -the landowners should be deprived of their property and that their -throats should be cut on the altar of the country; because in England -this has never happened, and until lately no one saw that there was any -possibility of it happening. In France for a long time these encounters -have been most disagreeable, and in Ireland I am led to believe that -the people begin to avoid them. I am told that Sir Thomas Esmonde is -“cut” by the society that he frequented before he entered political -life.</p> - -<p>However, they have not yet reached the odious personalities which too -often dishonour our election struggles; and, I notice with pleasure, -that the candidate’s first phrases are devoted to saying in a few words -that he considers his opponent, Mr. Todhunter Pym, a perfectly honest -man, and that he delights in recalling the services rendered by his -father. I always acted in this way in our election meetings, and I -can recollect the stupefied expressions of our adversaries’ partisans -and the alarmed faces of our own when they heard me break through old -traditions in such a fashion.</p> - -<p>Otherwise I am bound to say that the shadow of the illustrious Grattan -does not seem to inspire his descendant. If the truth must be owned, -the honourable candidate stutters a little and consults some papers, -which contain his improvisation, a little unreasonably. This is perhaps -excusable because his speech bristles with figures. Beyond this it -contained nothing very new.</p> - -<p>Ireland has always been oppressed. All its industries<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> have been -successively sacrificed to the Machiavellian calculations of the -English; first the silk manufactures, then the cotton have disappeared. -Only agriculture remains. Now agriculture itself is threatened; it is -dying of anæmia. Every year it pays nearly seventeen million pounds in -rent, of which six millions are spent abroad by landowners who never -visit Ireland. The country is therefore impoverished every year to the -extent of six million pounds. How can it resist such a drainage!</p> - -<p>“It is said that emigration is the only cure for the misfortunes of -Ireland. On the contrary, emigration is killing her. In the first -place, it is not true that she is too populated. Italy has 239 -inhabitants per square mile”—(Oh! Sir Thomas! how wrong it is to -juggle with figures in that fashion! You are quoting the statistics -of Milan and Lombardy. If you took those of the Pontine Marshes or of -Calabria, I think your argument would fall to pieces)—“Germany has -201; Holland, 181; France, 180; and Ireland only 169. And yet Ireland -is much more fertile than England, or than most other countries.” (Oh, -Sir Thomas!)</p> - -<p>And then he added, “We suffer from a want of capital. Now at least -four million Irishmen have emigrated in the last thirty years. Each -man has spent at least 6<i>l.</i> on his voyage, this therefore amounts to -twenty-four million pounds sterling, which Ireland has lost through -emigration.” (Really, Sir Thomas, you are making fun of your audience! -For one Irishman who has gone straight to America, ten have gone to -England first, in search of fortune. Now whilst admitting that the -emigrants to America have each spent 6<i>l.</i> on their journey, and this -is far from true, for the ship<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> companies take a whole family for -6<i>l.</i>, a great many of them have simply spent four or five shillings in -reaching the English coast. I think that if you reduced your numbers by -seven-eighths you would perhaps be a little nearer the truth.) “Now if -Ireland had retained this twenty-four millions, her agriculture would -be flourishing and prosperous.”</p> - -<p>The last few sentences particularly called forth immense enthusiasm.</p> - -<p>“Gentlemen,” said he, “it is a solemn hour. This is the last time that -I shall solicit your votes to send me to London. In a few months you -will be called upon to vote again, and this time to return me as your -representative to our national Parliament in Dublin. My election is not -doubtful; but it is important that the large majority you gave me last -time should be increased now, to prove to England that there is but an -infinite minority of Irishmen who are not determined to acquire Home -Rule!”</p> - -<p>Sir Thomas Esmonde was followed by a ferocious looking doctor, who -handled the English in general, but Lord Randolph Churchill in -particular, very roughly; he appeared to cherish a special animosity -against the latter. What had he done to him? I do not know. But if I -were Lord Randolph I would avoid that doctor if I were ill.</p> - -<p>I hoped for some compensation when Mr. Abraham Shackleton began to -speak. I had heard that he was a Quaker. The only thing that I ever -understood about the religion of that sect was that its members never -wore buttons to their coats, always kept on their hats, and thee’d and -thou’d everybody. Now his waistcoat was buttoned, his head was only -covered with badly-combed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> hair, and I heard him say to the Lord Mayor, -who came in; “How do you do?” This immediately put me on my guard, -for I have a horror of renegades. I therefore only waited to hear him -declare that he would rather be oppressed by a Catholic like his friend -the Lord Mayor than protected by a Protestant like Mr. Chamberlain; -then I slipped out, only too happy to breathe the fresh air once more.</p> - -<p>Mr. Gray had invited me to smoke a cigar with him at Pembroke House -after the meeting. It was already nearly eleven; however, I took -advantage of his kind invitation. I was conducted to a magnificent -library by a neat little maid who did not appear to have suffered -much from Ireland’s misfortunes, nor particularly from famine, for -she is quite plump. The master of the house had returned already; he -was relating to Mrs. Gray all the incidents of his meeting, which had -been very successful. From time to time a small bell recalled him to -a telephone placed in the middle of the table. The special wire for -the newspaper began to transmit the results of the English elections -and the news was immediately forwarded to him. They were not brilliant -for the Liberals. From all sides came tidings of the Conservative -successes. Mr. Gray’s features expressed great annoyance.</p> - -<p>“Bah!” said he at last, “we are beaten! Well, the English will have it -hot! There must be new elections before six months are over!”</p> - -<p>Apparently this means that there are a few good nights of obstruction -reserved for the members of the House of Commons. How strange Mr. -Gray’s position is! For in fact, however they may try to dissimulate -it, the Irish claims if they do not yet amount to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>communism as their -avowed object—and they may still retain a few illusions upon that -point—still it is quite certain that the methods employed by the Land -League would not be disowned by the most advanced Communists. No one -can proclaim the principle of permanent State intervention in a bargain -regulating the value of the land without being a Communist.</p> - -<p>Now amongst us there is no lack of rich Communists; but they are -only men who are outcasts from their own class, and who have thrown -themselves into the party through hatred of the society which they -feel is closed against them; for they all lead irregular lives, or -else have a blot on their past. Mr. Gray’s case is quite different. He -belongs to an excellent family, his perfect respectability has never -been questioned, even by his worst enemies. He leads the most regular -life; has a large fortune, and yet places all these advantages, and -his undoubted abilities, at the service of Communism. Either he shows -admirable disinterestedness, or else the race of people, who, mounted -on a tree, cut on the side nearest the trunk the branch that supports -them, is not yet extinct.</p> - -<p>I must now sum up the conversations I have had with these gentlemen -during the day. First, I must affirm, that they all declare in the most -positive way, that in asking for Home Rule they have no after-thoughts; -they do not dream of complete separation. They wish to have autonomy, -and power to regulate their own affairs, but they are all ready to -contribute to the common expenses. They do not think of independence, -still less of a republic. They are quite decided on this point. Besides -they also explain, very clearly, that the separation, which would be -a wound and a menace for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> England, would be death for their country. -Irish productions are exclusively agricultural, and England is the only -market that geography allows them. England can buy whatever cattle or -pigs she requires from other places; Ireland can only sell hers in -England. Suppose that a lucky rebellion drove every Englishman out of -the island; to bring Ireland to her feet, England need not blockade the -Irish ports, she has only to close her own against Irish productions. -Under these circumstances separation would evidently be suicide.</p> - -<p>This once understood, they willingly say when they are asked about -the agrarian laws, that they quite acknowledge how much danger State -intervention in the relations between the farmers and the landlords -involves, and how much the principle of that intervention is opposed to -the most elementary laws of economy. “But,” they add, “necessity has no -law. With us emigration is a last resource that every man endeavours to -avoid.” (This quite upset all my theories; I fancied that Irishmen were -much inclined to emigrate.)</p> - -<p>“An Irishman never emigrates except through compulsion or force. A -ruined man will take a farm at any price, knowing perfectly well that -it will be impossible for him to pay for it, but also knowing that the -landlord will give him credit for the first year or two’s rent, and -that he will thus postpone the day when he must seek work in England or -America as long as possible.</p> - -<p>“Under these circumstances the law of supply and demand is evidently -vitiated, and it is by looking at the question from this point, that we -can maintain that the work of the Land League has done good. Without -our intervention the landlords would have depopulated one-half of -Ireland, for agriculture is in such a distressed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> state that it is -naturally impossible for farmers to pay their rent in the present state -of the division of land; the only remedy for this situation is the -formation of small holdings, which have so much enriched France.”</p> - -<p>Here I stopped them. “But,” said I, “the agricultural crisis is not -confined to your country. It exists all over Europe. We, Frenchmen, are -suffering so much from it that in my department of the Aisne, one of -the richest in France, one-tenth of the land is abandoned, because it -is found that at present prices the sale of produce does not cover the -expenses of cultivation. The peasant proprietors of whom you speak are -absolutely ruined now, because their land has lost all its value. Now, -allow me to say, without offending you, that our land and our climate -are far better than yours.</p> - -<p>“This state of things, which prevails all over Europe and which is -the result of facility of transport, can only have two solutions: -emigration or protection. Up till now you have had recourse to -emigration, and you have managed comparatively well since the failure -in the potato harvest, which led to the famine in 1847, when you had -nine million inhabitants. In 1877 it only caused less misery because -there were four or five million less mouths. It appears that now you do -not wish for any further emigration, unluckily, protection is almost -impossible. We can apply it at home. We have already done so, and shall -do it again. It is possible because we are a very homogeneous people, -where all industries work side by side. When we ask the blacksmith -to pay a little more for his bread in order that his neighbour, the -farmer, may live, he easily understands that if the farmer is ruined -he will no longer have horses to be shod. Besides, the farmer is his -neighbour,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> perhaps his relation. With you everything is different. You -only produce meat and butter, and only English workmen can possibly -buy them. You require their custom, <i>they do not need yours</i>, and, -more than this, you loudly proclaim that you do not belong to the same -race, that between you and them there is war to the knife, that you -wish to be as completely separated as possible, compatible with your -own interests without paying the least attention to theirs. How can you -hope to succeed when you act in this way?”</p> - -<p>In my opinion these gentlemen have not answered my objections in a -satisfactory manner. They do not appear to know that the agricultural -crisis exists anywhere but here. In principle they would be partisans -of the protective system, but they recognise that they cannot hope to -obtain it from England, at least for a long time.</p> - -<p>What form of government do they intend giving to autonomic Ireland? As -a rule these men evade giving any decided information on the subject, -and this is very natural. Give us the principle, they say, the first -Irish Parliament will regulate all matters of detail. However, before -giving the principle, it is natural enough that England should wish -to know what the consequences will be. An article in the <i>Nineteenth -Century</i>, from the pen of Mr. Barry O’Brien, has recently dealt with -this question.</p> - -<p>According to him, there are five men who, in public opinion, so -completely personify the cause of Ireland that their ideas would -prevail whenever it became a question of giving definite form to the -Nationalist aspirations. These five men are Messrs. Parnell, Davitt, -Healy, Archbishop Croke, and Archbishop Walsh. Now, according to -what we know of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> opinions, we may form an exact idea of the -combination they would uphold. It would consist in:</p> - -<p>The creation of an Irish Parliament, sitting at Dublin, and invested -with the most extended legislative powers on all local subjects; -it would consequently make all the laws relating to questions -of property, justice, police, and commerce. But the Imperial -Government will preserve an absolute authority upon all the following -questions:—Foreign relations—especially the right of declaring -war—the army, navy, coinage, posts, and customs. All the Imperial -expenses would be covered by means of a tax, collected before any other -levy, from the Irish revenue, and the payment of this tax would be -received by crown officials.</p> - -<p>Would the Irish Parliament admit of an Upper House? Yes; in all -probability. Mr. Dwyer Gray is a great partisan of this idea. Only he -states, with deep regret, that all the Irish peers, having up to the -present time shown themselves absolutely hostile to any project of Home -Rule, and besides having lost any kind of political influence, it would -probably be difficult to have recourse to them to form the Upper House. -But he does not say who would replace them.</p> - -<p>A second question arises: Would Ireland return members to the Imperial -Parliament as Mr. Gladstone proposes? This idea alone exasperates the -English considerably, for they say that if separation is forced upon -them, they will at least be spared the insult of seeing the Irish -continue to take part in the elaboration of laws, to which they will -themselves be subject no longer. Many Irishmen renounce this privilege. -It is, however, known that the Archbishops greatly desire it, because -they consider that in the regulation of religious <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>questions, the -influence of Irish Catholics might often be useful to the interests of -their English co-religionists. Mr. Parnell also shares their views.</p> - -<p>Such in its main lines is the programme desired by the Land League. It -includes very onerous and very dangerous sacrifices for England. And -then as Mr. R—— said, we may ask, whether when once these sacrifices -are made, the Irish encouraged by their success, will not take them as -a starting-point for new claims. Unfortunately the history of popular -revolutions shows, that once entered on the pathway of concessions, it -is very difficult for a government to stop.</p> - -<p>However, it appears to me that in this respect the Irish revolution -will offer some guarantees, of which the others were quite destitute. -In this country there exist very powerful elements of social -preservation. In the first place, religion has an enormous influence, -that later events have only augmented. Then the war of classes is -certainly not carried to its highest point, nor has it at all the same -character as with us. The peasant’s hatred is not roused against the -landlord because he is noble and rich, but because he is Protestant, -and represents in his eyes the invader. The Irish who return from -America bring with them ultra democratic ideas, which are, perhaps, -propagated; but up to now, the bulk of the nation does not hold them. -With us, in the eyes of all good democrats, it is an irremediable blot -to belong nearly or distantly to the nobility. The Marquis de Songeon -could not obtain a nomination to the Municipal Council of Paris, -although he was atheist and radical to the last degree, unless he -called himself M. Songeon. Here, in every case, where a man can attach -himself to a noble family, he never<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> fails to do it, and as soon as a -political man begins to attain notoriety, every newspaper belonging to -his party asserts that he is a direct descendant from the Irish kings. -Verily there must have been a great many of them!</p> - -<p>In London, in Mr. R——’s drawing-room, I heard the Land League and -Home Rule discussed from the English point of view; Messrs. Harrington, -Gray, Biggar, and O’Sullivan have spoken to me about it from the Irish -side. I am therefore well acquainted with the theoretical view of the -question. Now I wish to see the Land League at work. In this respect, -Ireland is divided into two very distinct parts, which are very unequal -in size. In the first, which includes Ulster, and is much the smaller, -the population is nearly equally divided between the two religions. -In this province the Land League has been unable to establish its -authority in an absolute way; it is always in the militant stage. In -the south, on the contrary, the Protestant element, we may say, is -non-existent, or at least is only represented by a few landowners. The -Land League was able to establish itself there without any struggle. -Its authority is unquestioned. Consequently everything that happens -there is the application of its doctrines. I must therefore study them -in the south. With this object I leave to-morrow for Limerick, where -Colonel M—— has kindly invited me to stay with him. From there I -shall branch off into Kerry and Clare, and I fancy that it is in that -direction that I shall have the best opportunity of examining the work -of this formidable machine which, for the last four years, has held all -the powers of the English Government in check.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> - -<blockquote><p class="center">ADVICE TO TOURISTS ON THE ART OF KISSING ENGLISH WOMEN—AN -IRISH INN—CASTLE CONNELL—THE DEATH OF THE LAST OF THE -O’BRIENS—BALLINACOURTY—CAPTAIN MOONLIGHT—THE SHANNON—SIR -CROKER BARRINGTON—MR. CARDEN—LORD CLONCURRY AND HIS TENANTS—A -LAND LEAGUE HUT—MR. PATRICK HOGAN’S OPINION OF THE LANDLORDS.</p></blockquote> - -<p><i>5th July.</i>—Yesterday morning at eight o’clock I left Dublin to -commence my tour in the Irish counties. Shelburne Hotel is feeling -the effects of passing events for it is nearly empty. I am told that -formerly at this season it would have been impossible for them to have -given me a room—at all events to have kept one for me in advance—for -it was the time when all the upper classes of Irishwomen met in the -capital to pay their respects to the Viceroy, and to be kissed by him, -for it appears that this is <i>the</i> essential point in the viceregal -receptions. The Viceroy should kiss every lady presented to him, and -when duels were still fashionable in Ireland, it would have been most -imprudent for the Viceroy to show indifference whilst kissing any of -the beauties who passed before him; the father, brother, husband, -or betrothed would certainly have inquired his reason for such -unjustifiable coolness. And, moreover—I cite this fact for the benefit -of any travellers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> who may wish for instruction in the matter—the -art of kissing Englishwomen is extremely delicate, and involves a -number of important details. It is scarcely necessary to say that as a -rule it is more prudent to abstain even from kissing the hand, which -our custom recognises, but which on the other side of the Channel is -considered full of mental reservations. But under certain circumstances -this reserve constitutes an unpardonable offence. For instance, if you -should be invited to pass Christmas in an English family, take care -as you enter to glance at the chandelier. You may make a bet that a -large branch of mistletoe will be hanging there. In that case, if you -do not wish to pass for the most ignorant or vulgar of men, you are in -duty bound to immediately and unhesitatingly kiss every female in the -house, from the grandmother to the smallest girl. Custom imperatively -demands this attention, and the English of both sexes cherish it so -greatly that in colonies where mistletoe does not grow it is imported -by shiploads in time for that festive season.</p> - -<p>But then, we have only to consult English history to see what an -important part has often been played by kissing, both in military -and political cases. They say that in the last century a Duchess of -Marlborough, hearing that her husband’s regiment had sustained heavy -losses and that the recruiting sergeants had some trouble in filling -up the ranks, on one occasion accompanied one of them to the market, -holding a shilling between her lips, which she offered to every recruit -who would take it with his own; and the story-teller gallantly adds -that in an hour the total strength of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> regiment was fully reached, -and that they could have recruited a whole brigade in the same way had -they wished it.</p> - -<p>At the present time a kiss can still have great political influence. -In order to oppose the Land League, Lady Randolph Churchill has -founded a counter-league solely composed of women, which has been -marvellously successful. Each member of the Primrose League undertakes -to neglect no means, during the elections, of enticing voters to the -Conservative party, and it is stated that some of the prettiest women -unhesitatingly adopt the same method that the Duchess of Marlborough -found so successful. But in spite of all these precedents we should -advise tourist novices to be very careful. They had better sin through -omission than by commission, for exaggerated eagerness or warmth might -be misunderstood. A manual might be written on these serious questions.</p> - -<p>Did or did not Lord Aberdeen, the late Viceroy, impartially kiss all -the ladies of the Irish nobility and gentry who were suffering from -the Land League, or did they wish to punish him for his Gladstonian -tendencies by not giving him even a chance? I do not know. But in any -case there is no season this year and the Shelburne is almost empty. -The proprietors endeavour to console themselves with the aid of a few -rich American tourists, and I must own that when a passing Frenchman -falls into their hands, they treat him precisely like the Americans. -It was after experiencing this fact that I confided my portmanteau and -its owner to the tender mercy of a car-driver to take me to Kingsbridge -station. But, since yesterday was Sunday, I explained to him that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> -I wished first to be driven to a Catholic church to hear mass, -instructions that might have lowered me in the opinion of a French -carriage-driver, but which in Dublin won for me the most unequivocal -marks of consideration from this son of green Erin.</p> - -<p>He first drove me to a chapel built on the banks of the river, in one -of the poorest and most miserable districts, not far from Guinness’s -brewery. I was extremely struck with all I saw.</p> - -<p>When I entered, mass was about to commence; five or six hundred persons -were kneeling on benches or on the ground. I do not think that amongst -the whole number there was a single one whose appearance did not -indicate the deepest misery. By my side five or six men were telling -their beads. They were almost colossi, with bull-dog heads, very short -cropped hair and unshaven chins. They wore patched woollen shirts and -looked like dock porters. A little further away there was a group of -twelve or fifteen women, frightfully thin, with the hungry worn-out -look one sees on so many faces over here. All these miserable creatures -had evidently attempted to tidy themselves for Sunday. Most of them -wore shoes. I am told that these shoes go to the pawnbroker regularly -every Monday, and are redeemed on Saturday evening for Sunday’s mass. -The dresses have lost all their colour and their lank folds show -there is nothing worn underneath, but the poor owners all pray with -marvellous fervour. I have never seen in any church the striking -and sincere faith then visible amongst these unfortunate Irish whom -Providence seems to have condemned to such a hard life.</p> - -<p>At the station I gained some information that made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> me a little -anxious. It appears that on Sundays the trains run very irregularly. -They could, therefore, only give me a ticket to Limerick Junction, -about twenty or thirty miles from the city; but the officials told -me that excursion trains often ran on Sundays from Cork to Limerick, -perhaps I could catch one of them; so I entered the train on this -rather doubtful chance.</p> - -<p>The appearance of the country through which we pass is very strange. -I now understand the names “Green Erin” and the “Emerald Isle” which -are so often found in Irish poetry. Green is the scarcely undulating -plain which extends on each side of the railway; green also are the -slightly elevated hills which bound the horizon. We may say that there -is no agriculture. Only from time to time we catch sight of some fields -of potatoes and oats. Not a single tree. The fences are only heaps of -earth—the same enclosures that in Brittany are called <i>fossés</i>, only -here there is seldom any hedge. My fellow-passengers explained to me -that when a landowner wishes to make a plantation, everything is at -once cut down by the tenants, or else they let their horses feed on -the young trees, because they say no one has any right to deprive the -people of the land by which they live.</p> - -<p>In quality all this pasturage is very indifferent. The soil is not -worth anything, but I expected at least to see the fields well kept. -But, in reality, this is far from being the case. There is not one -in fifty that does not manifestly require drainage, for they are all -overrun with rushes. A fanciful agriculturist with whom I travelled -gravely assured me that these rushes are much appreciated, because -in winter the cattle know how to pull them up and eat the white part -that is hidden in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> the earth. I was too polite to laugh in his face; -I was content to point out to him that the intellectual effort and -intelligence which the cattle must develop in order to procure this -food seems to interfere with their growing fat; the blade wears out the -sheath; this explains why all those we pass are in such poor condition. -Besides, the quantity as well as the quality is deficient. The -pasturage would feed more animals than are now grazing upon it, for the -grass is not sufficiently cropped. This all indicates a lack of capital.</p> - -<p>Sir Thomas Esmonde told us yesterday that we should not find land to be -compared to Ireland anywhere else. I suppose he was scarcely alluding -to this district. Still, I read in a book of statistics—and the fact -is confirmed by my fellow-travellers—that County Kildare and Queen’s -County, which we are now passing through, both rank amongst the most -fertile parts of Ireland. At all events there is less misery in them -now than in any other counties. Whenever, in Dublin, the poverty of the -population was spoken of, I was always told that I must go to the south -and west to really appreciate it.</p> - -<p>This leads me to make a comparison that again seems to contradict -the assertions of the orator at Rathmines. Sir Thomas told us that -emigration was one of the chief causes of the ruin of Ireland. Now, -Queen’s County, which suffered enormously from famine in 1847, is -precisely the county where there is the most visible diminution of the -population. Queen’s County contained about 160,000 inhabitants in 1847; -153,000 in 1841. Its superficial area is 425,000 acres, of which 55,000 -acres are absolutely unproductive. It was therefore necessary that -370,000 acres should feed 150,000<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> inhabitants. This makes almost one -inhabitant to each two and a half acres, which is a very heavy average -for a stock-raising country. It is not nearly so high with us, and it -was evidently too much for the country, since many of the people died -of hunger.</p> - -<p>The population has diminished by more than one-half; there are now -only 75,000 inhabitants, and if it seems proved that it suffers less -than other counties from the present crisis, how can they declare that -emigration is a source of ruin?</p> - -<p>Turf pits are noticeable in every part of the land. Most people know -how this curious combustible is formed. During the summer some cold -damp countries become covered with an abundant vegetation of moss and -herbage that forms a very close and thick undergrowth. These plants die -every autumn. During the winter their decomposition produces a layer -of leaf mould, in which a new vegetation of plants of the same species -springs up again, and its rich growth mingling in its decay with that -of the preceding year, the soil is thus annually raised by successive -layers. Sometimes it reaches twelve or fifteen feet in height. Whilst -digging in this mass of vegetable matter, enormous oaks are frequently -discovered, after being buried for thousands of years, and the wood -having become very close and perfectly black is much in request for -cabinet-making, etc. They are called bog oaks. A quantity of stag and -elk horns are also found, which prove that formerly Ireland was richer -in large game than she is now; for, with the exception of a few found -at Killarney, the stag has completely disappeared. The peat is formed -by these accumulations of roots. The lower layers which have been -compressed by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> others are the most appreciated. They are dug out -with a spade, in black bricks, which are afterwards dried in small -heaps. This is the sole fuel used by the Irish peasants, for it is now -a long time since the forests were destroyed, and there is not a single -coal-mine in the whole country. On a hearth, well-dried peat makes a -fairly good fire; but its extreme lightness renders it almost useless -for any industrial purposes. The smallest draught draws up the tall -chimney all the fuel that is between the bars. Still, a little is used -in a few factories in Germany.</p> - -<p>Peat is therefore a very indifferent resource as fuel. This is very -unfortunate for Ireland, as she has a great quantity of it. It forms -the subsoil of at least half the pasturage we pass through. Every -moment we see a large black trench at one corner of the field. Here the -farmer digs out his fuel.</p> - -<p>I am told that this indifferent, badly-kept pasturage is usually let -as 2<i>l.</i>, 3<i>l.</i>, and 4<i>l.</i> the acre. The Irish acre is larger than the -English. It is almost as large as one of our <i>arpents</i>, viz., an acre -and a quarter. The <i>hectare</i>, nearly two and a half acres, is therefore -let at 4<i>l.</i> to 10<i>l.</i> This is certainly much too dear. A Normandy -farmer would not pay that price. In Calvados, pasturage resembling that -which I have seen here would not be worth more than 3<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i>, or -4<i>l.</i> an hectare. And then the farmer would be in a better position for -working it, since first he would derive some profit from his apples; -and besides this, he would have the command of sufficient capital to -buy the necessary herd of animals, a capital that none of these people -seem to possess.</p> - -<p>I compare this country to Normandy for two reasons. In the first place, -they have the same productions; in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> the second, the same market. London -prices regulate those of both countries. And we must also remember -that Normandy is nearer to London than Ireland. On the other hand, -the burdens that weigh upon the French farmer are much the heavier. -The land-taxes are dearer with us than in England. The expenses of -registration, so onerous in our country, do not exist on this side of -the Channel. I saw the deed of sale of a property worth 4,000<i>l.</i>; the -only duty to pay was a fee of 30<i>s.</i> In France the registration would -have absorbed about 400<i>l.</i> Military service also weighs very heavily -upon our agriculturists. And, evidently, all these things should be -taken into account. However, when the Land Leaguers say that the rents -are too high, I think they are right. But then, why do the tenants take -the land at that price?</p> - -<p>In the country we seldom see a group of houses; there seems nothing -resembling our villages. Only at long distances, three or four cottages -are visible clustered round a pond; as a rule, they are isolated. -Externally, the houses do not look so miserable as I had imagined them -to be. They are certainly small and low, but they are all carefully -whitewashed, and their thatched roofs are generally in good order; but -the gardens appear very badly kept.</p> - -<p>I can boast of wonderfully good luck. Can it be my introduction to -Messrs. Biggar and Shackleton that has brought it to me? When I reached -Limerick Junction I saw a locomotive getting up steam in a corner of -the station. It is one of the excursion trains that I had been told to -look out for; I hurried into a carriage and arrived at Limerick just in -time to catch another which conveyed the Limerick people, who were fond -of nature,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> out of the town to pass their evenings at Athlone; about -five o’clock it deposited me at Castle Connell Station, about a mile -from my destination.</p> - -<p>But I had not found anything to eat on the road; all the -refreshment-rooms are closed on Sunday. Luckily Castle Connell is -frequented by a good many Englishmen who fish for salmon, and for their -benefit one of those good little inns has been established where one -can never find anything but an enormous piece of roast beef, but where -this roast beef, the roast beef of Old England, is always delicious. -Consequently five minutes after my arrival I was seated before one of -those excellent products of English civilisation, from which I cut -formidable slices that only just touched my plate. Whilst I was thus -occupied, the landlady, a woman of respectable appearance, who called -me “sir” with every three words, sent for a jaunting-car to take me to -Ballinacourty, Colonel M——’s house. In a few moments I saw a tattered -personage ornamented with a very red nose, and cheeks framed with a -superb beard cut like a Russian Grand Duke’s, enter the room. It is -wonderful how hairy the Irish race are! It is probably the damp air -of the country which produces this great development of the capillary -system. This individual is the driver to whom I must confide myself.</p> - -<p>“And it’s to the Colonel’s I’m to take your honour?” said this modern -Esau with the finest accent that can be heard.</p> - -<p>“Yes, it is to the Colonel’s that you must take my honour. One mile -from here! You know the way?”</p> - -<p>“Do I know my own mother? Ah, your honour, it’s just as though your -honour asked did I know the Colonel. Your honour! blessed be the -saints, and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> foine gentleman he is! Every time he sees me, your -honour, he offers me a dhrink.”</p> - -<p>“And how much do you want for the drive?”</p> - -<p>“How far did your honour say it was from here to Ballinacourty?”</p> - -<p>“A mile. I saw it on the map.”</p> - -<p>“A mile!”</p> - -<p>The idea that it was only a mile from Castle Connell to Ballinacourty -seemed so droll to him that he called the waiter, laughing heartily as -he did so.</p> - -<p>“Hear this, Tim?” said he. “Here his honour says that to go to the -Colonel’s it is only a mile!”</p> - -<p>Tim also found this idea so ridiculous that he laughed till his old -coat threatened to split, but feeling his dignity compromised by this -burst of hilarity, he wiped his face with a dirty napkin and politely -apologised:</p> - -<p>“Beg your pardon, sir!” said he, “but, holy Mother of God, there are at -least four miles, and the road is very bad.”</p> - -<p>“No, Tim, no,” replied the driver with a noble air, “the road has -been mended, and it is not four miles; it is a little over three; but -there, we will only say three. You know this gentleman is going to the -Colonel’s, a man who never forgets to offer a dhrink, does he, Tim?”</p> - -<p>“Never!” said Tim with an air of conviction; “he offered me one the day -before yesterday.”</p> - -<p>But as it was evident the driver had already met some foine gentlemen -who had given him a great many more dhrinks than was good for him, I -chose not to understand his hints. At last, in despair at my want of -intelligence, he decided to put my portmanteau upon his car. We seated -ourselves back to back, and in spite of the disadvantages of this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> -position from a conversational point of view, we soon became good -friends. He even thought it his duty to do the honours of the local -curiosities.</p> - -<p>Castle Connell is now only a small village frequented by the fishermen, -who are attracted by a desire to tease the salmon in the Shannon; but -its past is more glorious, for it was once the capital of one of those -innumerable kings who rendered to modern Irishmen a service they now -seem to appreciate very highly, by enabling them all to claim a royal -descent. It was the O’Briens, kings of Munster, who inhabited Castle -Connell. They built on the banks of the Shannon a castle of which we -still see the ruins, not far from the spot where the hotel now stands. -To borrow a verse from king Pharaoh’s celebrated ballad, these monarchs -though legitimate were full of perversity, and this led to their -committing many crimes, thanks to which they became very rich and very -powerful; but unfortunately for them they had one virtue, and this was -enough to ruin them. They were exceedingly hospitable. But that is a -common virtue in Ireland, and has ruined many families from the days of -the O’Briens to the present time. The Irish gentry have always carried -hospitality to such a point, that it formed the most expensive of all -luxuries. The table was always laid, who ever liked was welcome, and -the best in the house was reserved for strangers, until the sheriff’s -officer intervened. Now Irish landlords no longer dine with each other, -because they dare not go out in the evening for fear of being shot. If -this wise reform now due to the benevolent watchfulness of the Land -League had taken place fifty or sixty years sooner many Irish gentlemen -would have escaped ruin. But Mr. Parnell and his agents commenced their -work too<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> late, when the majority of landlords were already completely -ruined; and consequently they feel no gratitude towards the new -arrangements. It was therefore a taste for hospitality which ruined the -dynasty of Castle Connell. One fine day the reigning O’Brien invited -one of his friends to dinner. The latter profited by this invitation -to introduce some of his followers into the castle, and seized the too -hospitable dwelling. He then put out the eyes of his host and ruled in -his place. In analogous circumstances Samson unhesitatingly sacrificed -his life to his vengeance. He pulled down his own house and crushed the -three thousand Philistines who were in it beneath the ruins. Apparently -the last of the O’Briens did not seek to revenge himself in equally -heroic fashion. In the first place, he was assassinated soon after the -fatal dinner. Another thing, perhaps he was not so strongly framed as -the victim of the fair Delilah; and also, perhaps the Irish were better -builders than the Jews: the examination of the ruins strongly inclines -me to this latter hypothesis. They consist of two or three rather -dismantled towers, for the old fortress, which had remained intact -until 1688, was taken at this date from the partisans of King James who -defended it, by the Hanoverians, who undermined it and blew it up.</p> - -<p>My Automedon did all in his power to awaken my sympathy for the family -misfortunes; I also think he claimed some relationship to them, but -I am not quite sure, for Irish explanations are rather diffuse and -hard to comprehend. In courses of elementary mathematics pupils are -often given very complicated formulæ to extract the unknown quantity -therefrom: the conversations of the Irish remind me of these studies -of my<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> youth. They are so embarrassed with incidental phrases, pious -exclamations, or simply polite expressions, such as “Please your -honour,” that the unknown, that is to say, the true meaning, is hard to -extricate. Furthermore, they have a mania for answering one question -by another. For instance, when I asked my coachman if he knew his way, -instead of simply answering “Yes,” he asked me if I thought he did not -know his own mother.</p> - -<p>Besides, the length of his discourse and his anxiety to impart to me -all the historical reminiscences which I have faithfully recorded, had -manifestly the object of deluding me about the distance which separates -Castle Connell from Ballinacourty. In reality it is only a mile, and, -in spite of his efforts, in less than half an hour we arrived in front -of Colonel M——’s house.</p> - -<p>My host is still a victim of the Land League. This is his history. -It is curious, precisely because it resembles that of hundreds of -other landlords. All the tenants on his estate, in County Clare, had -leases of thirty-one years, which fact, in parenthesis, is a formal -contradiction to Mr. Parnell, when he claims <i>fixity of tenure</i>, that -is to say, security for the tenants, and declares that one of the chief -reasons which prevent improvements is that the landlords refuse to give -them leases, and like to retain the right of sending them away whenever -they please. I may even add that I have seen a number of these leases, -and my tenants may feel certain that I will never sign anything like -them. It seems to me that the essential point of a lease is that it -should be bilateral—that the two parties should be bound for the same -time. Each runs some risk. If the years are good the landlord does not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> -benefit by the rise, but if they are bad he does not suffer from the -fall.</p> - -<p>Now, the Irish leases—at least those that I have seen, and I am -assured that until the last few years all were drawn up in the same -form—contain a clause that absolutely destroys this principle. It is -always stipulated that the tenant should have the right to withdraw -at any time by giving six months’ notice in advance, without any -reciprocal power being reserved for the landlord. I do not therefore -see why the latter should tie his hands for thirty-one years; and if -it is true that many landowners have refused to grant leases to their -tenants, it appears to me that their refusal was clearly justified by -this extraordinary clause.</p> - -<p>But in any case the Colonel’s patrimonial estate had always been -managed in this way, and consequently, while those of his neighbours -who had refused to be bound by leases profited by the years of plenty -that followed the famine by raising their rents 25, 50, and often 100 -per cent., the rents on his property remained stationary, or at least -were only raised in a very irregular manner, since the increased rents -could only be charged when the leases had to be renewed.</p> - -<p>When bad seasons returned the Government took the initiative by a law -known as the Land Bill, which instituted committees charged with the -regulation of the rents, but these committees ignored all previous -contracts. They commenced by reducing all rents on an average 15 to 20 -per cent. Then the Land League intervened, and by methods which, if -illegal, were not the less efficacious, it obtained fresh reductions, -which generally doubled the first. On some estates, those which are -referred to when it is desirable to quote an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> instance, things were -restored to nearly their original condition. When this happened the -landlords protested a little, but merely as a matter of form; for even -had the committee not imposed a reduction, they would have been glad -enough to receive their rents at the same rate as before the rise took -place.</p> - -<p>But the numerous class of those who had not raised their rents -naturally considered that it was supremely unjust that reductions -should be forced upon them when they had not profited by the good -years. And really they had some ground for complaint. Let us take the -case of two landlords who own estates of the same quality contiguous -to one another. In 1855, for instance, both of them let the land at -4<i>l.</i> per acre; in 1870 the first of them raised the rent to 8<i>l.</i> The -second, restrained by a lease or simply by moral considerations, had -not altered the price. The Government and the Land League only reduced -the former to his original sum of 4<i>l.</i>, whilst the latter saw his -rent fall to 2<i>l.</i>, and found himself impoverished by one half simply -because he had not ground down his tenant like his neighbour had done.</p> - -<p>A great many resisted, the Colonel amongst them. He declared that, -under the circumstances, he preferred taking back his land and -cultivating it himself, but by thus acting he infringed the fundamental -rule of the League. Here I cannot resist inserting a parenthesis.</p> - -<p>The idea that ownership of the soil is a property like any other is -certainly a modern idea. The old notion of land tenure, the outcome -of feudal laws, considerably limited the landlord’s rights, by -creating, amongst other things, between him and the tenant reciprocal -obligations, such as personal or military service; these are no<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> longer -compatible with modern ideas, but we still find persistent traces of -them in every country in Europe, and particularly in France. Thus many -of the lands of Sauterre, for instance, are or have till quite recently -been subject to a law which provided that a landlord could not send -away a tenant without replacing him by one of his relations, or by -cultivating the farm himself. Of course this law has not been inscribed -in any code for a very long time. It is asserted that it dates back to -the Crusades; but it is so deeply ingrafted into the national customs -that here the land subject to it is always let more cheaply than -any other, because the owners well know that if they have reason to -complain of a tenant, and that no one of his family is disposed to take -the farm, this generally happens—they will not find any one to replace -him. The owners of land subject to these laws are therefore in a great -measure at the mercy of their tenants. Attempts have frequently been -made to evade it, but they have always been followed by repentance, for -they have invariably been punished, either by arson, or by mutilations -of cattle. But this is all avoided if the proprietor cultivates the -land himself. This is the sole proceeding that, according to custom, -will enable him to act against the tenant.</p> - -<p>These facts are well known. I recall them because they throw a new -light upon the events now passing in Ireland. The Land League by -refusing to allow the landlord the right of dismissing his tenant, -endeavours, perhaps a little unconscionably, to revive in force -old customs that are evidently of feudal origin, and which, if -resuscitated, would completely subvert all modern notions of property, -whilst it is very curious that the League is encouraged in these -attempts by the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>revolutionists of the whole world. But at least the -old law acknowledged the proprietor’s right to cultivate the land -himself, and this the Land League refuses to do.</p> - -<p>The Colonel’s decision was scarcely announced when all corners of the -estate were placarded with notices warning the public that the fields -were boycotted. A butcher from Limerick rented a meadow, he had reason -to regret it; during the night the tails of all his oxen were cut off. -Then things became worse; the Colonel had left the service in order to -manage the property himself. Soon after he first returned, he wished -to make an example, and sent away two tenants who were pointed out to -him as ringleaders in mischief. He immediately received several letters -signed <i>Captain Moonlight</i>, couched in the most polite terms, but in -which he was advised to have the measure for his coffin taken as soon -as possible. A few days later he had dined with a neighbour and was on -his way home towards eleven o’clock at night. It was fairly light; on -leaving the park the road led up a rather steep incline, to the right -there was a field of oats separated from the road by a low wall.</p> - -<p>As they drove through the gate the coachman, who probably had partaken -too freely of the hospitality of the servants’ hall, suddenly whipped -up his horse. The Colonel, who was sitting on the second seat of the -jaunting-car, turned round to tell him to drive more slowly; at the -same time he heard the report of a gun; his hat was pierced, and by -the light of the shot he distinctly saw the man who had fired from -the other side of the hedge. He seized the gun that was always in the -carriage, and jumped down; unfortunately the horse was still going so -fast that he rolled into the ditch. When he got up again the man was -already some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> distance away, running across the oats. He fired twice -but could not reach him. A few weeks later in his turn he had some -friends to dinner. The dessert had been served, and, according to the -English custom, the ladies had risen to return to the drawing-room; the -Colonel drew back against the wall to allow his neighbour to pass when -a shot was fired outside through the dining-room window; this time the -bullet passed through his coat.</p> - -<p>Two years later an Irish priest, settled in America, wrote to him -saying that the author of the two attempts had just died in hospital, -and that before receiving absolution he had asked his confessor to -write to the Colonel to implore his pardon and to tell him all the -details of the crime. He had received 100 guineas for the attempts, the -result of a donation from all the tenants on the estate.</p> - -<p>This is the position of affairs in the country, and the situation -is rendered particularly serious by the offenders being very rarely -arrested; their secret is too well kept. Besides, when they are -arrested, it is not of much use; the juries know what to expect if -they give an adverse verdict, and therefore the few culprits brought -before them are nearly always acquitted. The other day there was a very -amusing case of this kind.</p> - -<p>One of the Colonel’s neighbours, also an ex-officer, Major F——, had -some difficulties with a drover who occupied a very small farm. He -gave him notice to quit. The man complained to the Land League, and -the president wrote to the Major telling him that he had received a -complaint against him and requesting him to give some explanation about -the motives that had led him to act so harshly. The Major considering<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> -this summons a simple piece of impertinence naturally took no notice of -it. But he suffered for his neglect. A few days’ later as he finished -breakfast, he noticed five or six cows feeding in a field of clover in -front of his windows. He went out, for he could not understand how they -had entered. When he reached the field he found they had passed through -a gap in the wall that had evidently been made on purpose.</p> - -<p>He drove them before him, intending to make them go out by the same -gap, when he suddenly perceived, not ten paces from him, a man on the -other side of the wall deliberately aiming at him with a long holster -pistol. He instantly recognised his drover. The shot followed; he -realised that he was not hit, but he turned on his heels and ran back -into the house to find a weapon. When, ten minutes later, he returned -to the fields, he made a curious discovery—the pistol had burst; this -accident had saved his life. The fragments of the weapon were on the -ground. The drover had disappeared, but he had been severely wounded; -his right hand thumb had been blown off, and was found in a pool of -blood.</p> - -<p>Five or six days later the assassin was arrested in a hospital where he -had gone to have his wounds attended to. He was sent to the assizes; -but on the eve of the trial each juryman received a letter signed -“Captain Moonlight,” informing him that the man had only obeyed orders, -and that if he were condemned, others would be found ready to avenge -him and to make them suffer the same fate from which the Major had so -narrowly escaped.</p> - -<p>The man denied everything, and was acquitted. As he came down from the -prisoner’s bench, when the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> judge had informed him that he was free, he -had the impudence to turn round and say:</p> - -<p>“Excuse me, your Lordship, but won’t they give me back my thumb? I -should like to bury it!”</p> - -<p>The Colonel told me this story as we strolled on the banks of the -river. The Shannon is not navigable above Limerick. At the place where -we now are it is a fine stream between two and three hundred yards -wide. The water is clear as crystal, except where it foams round -numerous rocky boulders, over which it descends from cascade to cascade -until it reaches a kind of lake formed by a bend in the river which -there suddenly turns westward.</p> - -<p>The two banks are covered with fine trees which reach to the water’s -edge, forming a lovely picture, which would exactly resemble a creek -in the Rocky Mountains if one could not see pretty country houses in -every direction, so near together that the parks join each other. -From Lord Massy’s garden, where we stand, we can see five or six. -The salmon-fishing is the great attraction; no one could imagine the -follies Englishmen will commit for its enjoyment. Our own custom is -repeated here, the owners of the river banks claim the fishing to -the middle of the stream. I was shown the boundaries of one of these -claims, which is only about four hundred and forty yards long. It is -let during the season for 200<i>l.</i>; and the lessee must also employ two -keepers, a boat, and two boatmen. Altogether, without counting the -other expenses of his change of residence, the whole costs between -280<i>l.</i> and 320<i>l.</i> A rather longer reach, situated a little more up -the stream, has been let for £400. I inquired whether these liberal -fishermen catch plenty of salmon, and was at once<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> informed that I -had made use of a very terrible barbarism. One must not say “catch a -salmon,” but “kill a salmon.” This important point settled, I then -learned that this has been rather a bad season, but that when the -stream has risen well, lucky and skilful fishermen can kill as many as -eight salmon in a day.</p> - -<p>This morning I asked the Colonel’s permission to walk about the -neighbourhood alone. After the events he related to me yesterday, he -shut up his house in county Clare and settled on the other side of -the river, in the small house at Ballinacourty, which he rented from -a friend, and which is situated in county Limerick. He has therefore -no interest in this district, and up to a certain point this takes him -out of the category of landlords, and places him amongst the strangers. -Consequently the Land League leaves him quite alone, and his relations -with the country people are comparatively good. Yesterday we went out -for a short time with a neighbouring landlord, and I noticed that -whilst he was with us not one of the peasants whom we met saluted us, -but when we were alone they all bowed to us, and some of them even -greeted us with a few friendly words.</p> - -<p>In spite of the personal sympathy evidently felt for him, Colonel M—— -is still a landlord, the friend and neighbour of every landlord in the -country. He is therefore certain to inspire some distrust, and I fancy -that the people will talk more freely with me alone than if they see me -in his society. After walking for some time in the country, I entered -several houses in succession, under various pretexts; and I must at -once own that I was very well received. In a moment, when I said I was -French, my welcome became even enthusiastic. The whole family, and -often even the neighbours, crowded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> round me, asking me about France, -the name alone seeming to contain a wonderful attraction for them.</p> - -<p>I am told that this sympathy for France exists all over Ireland, but it -is particularly visible in the south, because in the last century most -of the soldiers of the brilliant Irish Brigade, that has filled such -glorious pages in the annals of our military history, came from this -district. The recruiting agents of the kings of France were naturally -pursued by the English authorities, and consequently they experienced -some very great hardships, but this circumstance has been invaluable -to the Irish novelists, whose works are usually based on adventures of -which these men are the heroes.</p> - -<p>The coast of Bantry Bay was almost deserted at that time, and it was -therefore from there that the recruits embarked in search of the -French schooners that conveyed them to Dunkerque, where the depôts -of the brigade were stationed. It is said, that, in order to avoid -compromising themselves, the consignees had the habit of describing the -men in their bills of lading as <i>wild geese</i>.</p> - -<p>Few of them ever returned to the country. It is calculated that more -than one hundred thousand died under the French flag; but those who did -come back have left such vivid recollections of themselves, that here -every one seems to look upon France as a second country, and imagine -that they will ultimately regain their liberty through us.</p> - -<p>Yesterday, when from the railway I saw the country cottages, I -thought the descriptions I had received of their poverty were greatly -exaggerated. But to-day I realise that these accounts did not overstep -the truth,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> and that appearances had greatly deceived me. The exterior -is passable. Like many old houses in Perche and elsewhere, they are -all built of mud tempered with cow-hair or hay, and consolidated with -a few laths. As long as the roof is good, and that they are careful to -frequently whitewash the exterior, these buildings are very warm in -winter, very cool in summer, and they last a long time.</p> - -<p>But when any one enters them the impression is quite changed. We must -first remark that the Irish are extremely prolific. Most families -include six or seven children, yet as a rule the houses have only one -room, ten or eleven yards long by five or six wide.</p> - -<p>To enable the whole family to sleep there they formerly resorted to -very original arrangements. In one corner there was a great heap of -reeds; in the evening they spread them out for a bed; the man and -wife slept in the middle; the smallest boy by his father’s side, the -youngest girl by her mother, and so on until they reached the eldest, -who occupied the two extremities next to the pigs, who are always -allowed inside. If they offered hospitality to a stranger, and this -frequently occurred, the pigs were pushed a little further away. This -was called sleeping “straddogue.”</p> - -<p>It appears that this rather primitive couch is still used in many -houses. But moralists have some reason to say that luxury is -penetrating everywhere. In all the cottages that I have yet visited, -the inhabitants have already mounted one step on the ladder of comfort. -I have always seen one, and sometimes two beds, but never more. When -there is only one bed, the father, mother, and daughters sleep side -by side at one end;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> the sons at the other. When there are two, the -parents and daughters occupy one, and the sons repose on the other. -The pigs had also profited by this innovation; they sleep under the -bed, and the hens generally perch above it. I have never seen such -arrangements even amongst the savages on the African coast.</p> - -<p>This system, deplorable from a human point of view, seems, on the -contrary, to have the happiest effect on the development of the -intellectual and affectionate qualities of the pig. To him is confided -the education of the children, who, almost naked, play in the mud -outside the cottage. I saw two this morning, nearly of the same age, a -little boy and a little girl, sleeping in the glare of the sun, their -heads comfortably resting on the side of a great sow. The latter was -evidently quite conscious of her important charge. When I advanced she -first moved her ears, then uttered some little grunts, intended to -herald the approach of a stranger, but she did not move for fear of -awaking the two children. A little further on three others, of four and -five years old, were filling an old tin box with dirty water, which -they afterwards poured over their legs, with great satisfaction. Their -guardian lying full length in the pool, watched this innocent amusement -from one corner of her eye, and seemed to take extreme pleasure in it.</p> - -<p>What have all these people to live on? And here I must assert that -they have no appearance of suffering. The race is not remarkable for -physical beauty. But though they are ragged and half naked, they do not -look famished with hunger as the people do at Dublin. The children are -very fat. We are now at the commencement of the hay season, but yet all -the men seem idling about the cottages. The Colonel assures me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> that -many of them have money deposited in the banks, and that it is not rare -to see a man living like those whom I have visited give his daughters -when they marry a dowry of 40<i>l.</i> or 50<i>l.</i> each. Where do they get all -this money, besides the sums they spend? More than a shilling a day is -never paid for a man’s labour. The mystery is explained to me by the -information that in a few days they will all go to England to assist in -the harvest and hop-picking, and they live in idleness through the rest -of the year on the money then made. Formerly, part of it went to pay -the rent; but those good times are quite past now.</p> - -<p>I have already had one long discussion with the Colonel. He says that -the land is good. I persist in considering it very indifferent as a -rule; moreover, the climate is very bad. Vegetation is so backward -that haymaking has scarcely commenced. They never secure more than one -crop. The bad weather comes too soon for it to be possible to get any -aftermath. I have not yet seen a field of wheat. When it was grown, the -harvest was rarely successful. I had the curiosity to visit a large -garden which has some reputation in the county, for the owner sells -the produce of it. I am certain that it is fully three weeks behind -Normandy, and even more behind the suburbs of Paris. In my garden in -the Avenue Friedland, the rhododendrons have flowered a month ago. Here -they are just opening. It is the 6th of July, yet there are scarcely -any strawberries. The gardener proudly showed me a cherry-tree, which, -thanks to an excellent situation, has already some ripe fruit! They are -being sold at 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per pound to a dealer, who retails them at -2<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i>!</p> - -<p>How can agriculture prosper under such <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>circumstances? Owing to the -Gulf Stream, the winter is not severe; but how can the poor work in -January and February? Yesterday we sat down to dinner at eight o’clock. -We left it soon after nine, and it was broad daylight. The lamps were -still unlighted. I therefore conclude that in six months it will be -dark until nine o’clock in the morning, and we are in the South of -Ireland. What must it be in the North? And what is a day’s labour worth -if it only contains five or six working hours?</p> - -<p>After lunch, the Colonel took me for a drive. We first went ten or -twelve miles to visit Sir Croker Barrington’s beautiful seat. The -Castle is placed in the midst of a lovely park; it is modern, but it -has several towers, machicolations, and battlements, which give it a -look of feudal ferocity, completed by four or five old cannon, placed -like a battery on the terrace which overlooks the road we drove up -by. Alas! they did not suffice to intimidate the Land Leaguers of the -neighbourhood; for one morning, three or four years ago, they came in -broad daylight and organised a battue in the park. They killed all the -deer without any one daring to oppose them. The deer have since been -replaced, and we have even seen some of them. But what was done at Sir -Croker Barrington’s is repeated, more or less, in all directions, on -a smaller scale. In many counties it is now impossible to preserve at -all. Poaching is openly carried on.</p> - -<p>“We ourselves, the landlords, are now the game,” said the Colonel in a -melancholy tone, “and for us there is no close season.”</p> - -<p>However, sometimes the game resists. The instance of a Mr. Carden was -quoted to me, who at last<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> succeeded in getting the best of the whole -population.</p> - -<p>Like every one else, he had serious difficulties with his tenants, who -would neither pay their rents nor leave their farms. He had been shot -at several times, but had never been hit. One day he was riding on -the Nenagh road in full daylight, when, at the same moment, he heard -two balls whistle past his ears. The would-be murderers were two men -who had fired from a neighbouring field, and who ran away seeing that -they had missed their aim. Mr. Carden jumped his horse over the wall -and pursued them. He stunned the first with a blow from his loaded -horse-whip, then throwing himself upon the second, he managed to knock -him down with blows of his fists. He bound them together with his -stirrup-leathers, and triumphantly conveyed them to Nenagh prison. -Wonderful to relate, the jury, suddenly carried away by his courage, -consented to find them guilty, and they were hanged!</p> - -<p>Mr. Carden had another rather droll adventure with his tenants. One -day, during the Fenian insurrection, he was warned that the inhabitants -of the neighbouring village, taking the Socialist theories in earnest, -had divided his park between them, and intended solemnly coming to -take possession on the following Monday. Mr. Carden, assisted by his -men-servants, immediately carried an old cannon, worked on a pivot, -that he possessed, to an upper room. On the day named the tenants -arrived with horses and carts, and commenced, in presence of an immense -crowd, to dig up the lawn. At this moment they heard a window open, and -they saw Mr. Carden ostentatiously leading his cannon up to the mouth -with packets of grape-shot. He then turned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> round, drew out his watch, -and informed the spectators that he gave them ten minutes to get away -in. They did not require five, and no one has since dreamt of digging -up Mr. Carden’s lawn.</p> - -<p>Sir Croker Barrington was away, and this unfortunately prevented us -from seeing the interior of the castle, but we had a short walk through -a small narrow copse that ran along the hill, on the top of which the -castle was built, and which is really charming. The dampness of the -country renders the vegetation of the underwood deliciously fresh, and -of incomparable luxuriance by the side of anything we have at home. And -I must add that Irish poachers are less destructive than ours. They -kill the large game, but apparently disdain the thrushes, blackbirds, -and wood-pigeons, for numbers of them flew up, literally from under our -feet.</p> - -<p>The road that has brought us back from Sir Croker Barrington’s to -Ballinacourty passes through Lord Cloncurry’s estate. I much wished -to visit this property, for it has been frequently mentioned for some -time past. It is, in fact, the theatre where very extraordinary events -have taken, and are still taking place, showing plainly the state of -disorganisation which now prevails in Ireland.</p> - -<p>Lord Cloncurry is a very rich man, who usually inhabits another estate -in the vicinity of Dublin. His property in county Limerick is managed -by an agent.</p> - -<p>The tenants paid their rent neither better nor worse than their -neighbours, when after Easter, 1884, they all went to the agent -together. They carried their money in their hands. The agent, believing -that they had come<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> to pay him, began complimenting them on punctuality -to which he was unaccustomed, when the priest, who was with them, -stepped forward, and, speaking in the name of his parishioners, told -him that the tenants were ready to pay, provided that the rents were at -once reduced ten per cent. If this reduction, which was to affect not -only the quarters now due, but also those that were in arrears, were -not accepted, nothing more would be paid.</p> - -<p>The agent replied that he had not the requisite authority to accept -these propositions, which to him seemed very unjust. The land was let -in a very unequal way, for as the rents had not been raised for a long -time the relative value of the land was much changed, so that whilst -some paid a full price, others paid much too little. If they wished the -arrangements re-made on a new basis it would not be just for the same -reduction to be made for them all. The tenants would not listen, and -they all left him without paying a penny.</p> - -<p>The following day they assembled at a meeting, the priest still acting -as president. It was agreed that five delegates should go to Dublin to -see Lord Cloncurry and to lay the matter before him.</p> - -<p>He did not receive the embassy very graciously, but replied to them -in the same words as the agent had done. He did not refuse them all a -reduction, but he would not admit that a reduction should be the same -for all; lastly, and above all, he would not allow them to impose upon -him, by threats, terms that he thought were undesirable. If the tenants -would not pay, he would show himself lenient towards arrears, but he -would get rid of them all, even if he cultivated the land himself. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> - -<p>Before they separated, they had roused a great deal of anger towards -each other. It is easy to see that the whole business was badly managed -from the commencement. Lord Cloncurry had not the reputation of being -a hard or exacting landlord. On the other hand, any one who is in -the habit of managing land, and who is acquainted with the state of -agriculture, not only in Ireland, but nearly all over the world, will -see at once that the demand for a reduction of ten per cent. was not -excessive. Only it is quite certain that the tenants owed the rents in -arrear. In asking for a reduction on this portion of their debt, they -were soliciting a favour, and to begin with threats is not the way to -obtain a favour. Lastly, in spite of my sympathy for the Irish, I can -never understand one thing—namely, that the landowner can be denied -the right of sending away a tenant who will not pay.</p> - -<p>However, this is of daily occurrence in Ireland, and the most singular -thing is, that it frequently happens that tenants who refuse to pay -because others have refused, send their money by post or let one of -their children carry it over during the night, entreating the agent not -to say that they have paid it, because they are afraid of the others. -One small estate was named to me, on which all the tenants, with the -exception of one or two, have regularly paid in this way for some -years, each persuading himself that he is alone in doing so.</p> - -<p>Lord Cloncurry lost no time before putting his threats into execution. -The tenants all received a summons to pay. They took no notice of it, -and it was soon known that they were to be evicted.</p> - -<p>On the day named, everybody from two or three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> leagues round, assembled -to witness the proceedings. Lord Cloncurry’s representative soon -appeared, accompanied by an imposing escort of police and about fifty -soldiers from the Limerick garrison. The priest was there encouraging -his parishioners to struggle for the good cause. However, considering -the customs of the country, the crowd was not very threatening. They -threw a good deal of mud and a good many stones at the police; but -that always happens, and no one attaches any importance to it. Every -tradition was minutely observed on both sides. In each house, the -whole family lay on the ground and refused to move. Two policemen then -took men, women and children, in succession, and gently deposited them -on the manure heap; then they carried all the furniture outside, and -lastly the landlord’s agent took possession—carefully shutting all -the doors and windows, or else the evicted persons would hasten in -again, and nothing would be gained; whereas, if they broke open a door -after the seals were once placed upon it, they would fall under the -power of the law. All these operations are extremely delicate. If any -member of the family is still in the house when the seals are put on, -the eviction is invalid. Consequently, those interested in possession -being retained often try to hide a child in a corner, or, better still, -in a hole prepared in the wall or in the thatched roof, and if this -manœuvre is successful, the unfortunate landlord is obliged to obtain a -fresh writ, and, with another hundred men, to attempt a fresh eviction, -for it all must be done over again. “The fôôôrme!” said Bridoison, “is -substance.”</p> - -<p>All the “fôôôrmes” were therefore duly observed on either side, and, -on the whole, the affair passed off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> quietly. But it was scarcely -ended, when an incident occurred which produced a deep impression. -Lord Cloncurry’s representative was about to retire with the police, -when a personage, whom no one had noticed until then, approached him, -and intimated, in the name of the Land League, that all the land on -the estate was boycotted, and that, in order to secure obedience to -the orders of the League, the tenants would be installed, by its -precautions, at the doors of their old houses, in such a way, that no -interference would be possible. At the same time, the crowd opened, -and he saw a number of carts filled with materials. Every one at once -set to work; and before the day ended, fifty or sixty wooden huts, for -which the frames had been sent all ready, were put up on the side of -the road, and each evicted family was comfortably installed in one of -them the same evening.</p> - -<p>We may judge of the effect produced by this unexpected scene that the -League had organised to give a new proof of its power. The arrangement -has now lasted for two years; the seventy evicted families are -supported at the expense of the League; the land on which these huts -are built belongs to farms in the neighbourhood; they are regularly -let to the tenants who occupy them. Some landlords wished to protest; -but they were threatened with Lord Cloncurry’s fate, and so their -opposition subsided.</p> - -<p>At the same time, Lord Cloncurry has not yielded one inch. He put some -cows into the boycotted fields, and curiously enough, their tails -have not been cut off—an immunity that they probably owe to the fact -that, on its side the authorities have stationed two or three bodies -of police in the empty farms, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> that the fields are patrolled by -well-armed constables every night.</p> - -<p>At Dublin, Mr. Harrington had told me about this business, recommending -me to go and visit the Land League huts. It appears that the -Association has profited so much by their action on this occasion, that -in spite of the great expense entailed, it has built other huts under -similar circumstances in other parts of Ireland. It is certain that -the seventy men whom the League has supported in idleness during the -last two years must be invaluable agents, and the whole proceeding also -serves as a very fine advertisement for the League.</p> - -<p>After a few minutes’ walk, we reached a place by the roadside where -two of these huts are built. I wished to visit them, in spite of -the Colonel’s advice, for he warned me that having been seen with -him, I might expect a very cold reception, and might even be most -unceremoniously turned out. “For,” said he, “these men are the most -desperate fellows in the country!”</p> - -<p>And, in fact, it at first seemed very probable that his words would be -verified. In the first house I entered a woman was sitting near the -door peeling potatoes; five or six children of different ages were in -the corners; the husband, a great fellow with a bad physiognomy, was -seated near the window, smoking his pipe, with his hat on and both -hands in his pockets.</p> - -<p>“Good morning, madam!” said I pleasantly, as I entered. “Good morning, -sir!”</p> - -<p>The woman never even raised her head; the children looked at me, -thrusting their fingers up their noses; the husband gave an ill-omened -grunt. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> - -<p>This sounded badly. But at that instant an idea struck me that I can -only call brilliant, although that word may cause my modesty to be -questioned. The eldest child, a horrible-looking urchin of ten or -twelve years old, frightfully dirty and half naked, was evidently -poking the fire when I entered; he still held the stick he had been -using for the purpose.</p> - -<p>“Madam,” I continued still more pleasantly, “would you kindly allow -your nephew to give me a light for my cigar?”</p> - -<p>Instantly the woman raised her head and pushed away the locks of yellow -hair that covered her eyes.</p> - -<p>“My nephew!” said she. “But I haven’t a nephew!”</p> - -<p>“But that boy there—is he not your nephew?”</p> - -<p>“That boy there—he’s my son!”</p> - -<p>“Your son—that great boy! But I can only beg your pardon. Upon my -word, you look so young that I should never have supposed that you had -a son of that age. I am a foreigner—a Frenchman. You must excuse my -blunder.”</p> - -<p>I had scarcely finished my pretty little speech, when everything in -the house was reversed. First the mother, then the father, jumped from -their chairs to offer them to me.</p> - -<p>“Ah, your honour,” said the woman, “how can you say I look young? I am -three years older than my husband, blessed be the saints! I have seven -children, your honour. Pat, finish there, are you going to give his -honour a light for his cigar?”</p> - -<p>After that, nothing was refused to me. I went over the whole house. -It was ten yards long by six wide. To the right two partitions, which -were placed at right<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> angles to each other, formed two rooms, each -containing one bed; the parents and daughters slept in one, the boys in -the other; the large room was used as a kitchen. Mr. Parnell’s portrait -hung on the wall. My hosts were unacquainted with Latin, or they should -have written below it: <i>Deus nobis hæc otia fecit</i>. But still this does -not prevent them from enjoying their position. The husband explained -that the Treasurer of the Land League passes every Saturday, and -gives them 2<i>l.</i> Besides this, he sometimes earns a shilling a day by -working. Through the window he showed me his old farm on the opposite -hill; it is one of those now turned into a garrison, but he appears -quite resigned to his condition. I think that, at least so far as he -is concerned, this display of military force is quite unnecessary, for -I believe that he would be quite dismayed if he were told he would be -reinstated in his old home.</p> - -<p>I asked him whether he had ever thought of emigration. “Emigration!” -said he, with extraordinary energy. “Never; I would rather die of -hunger!”</p> - -<p>These words confirmed the statements made by the heads of the Land -League at Dublin. I thought that the Irish peasant, unlike the French -of the same class, was easily persuaded to emigrate; but this is not -so. Every one whom I have asked in my walk this morning has made the -same answer. However, they tell me that the young men have different -ideas and that, on the contrary, most of them were going to seek their -fortunes in America and Australia.</p> - -<p>When I had inspected the first house, I asked if I could see the -second, and since they had now made my acquaintance, I was received -there cordially at once. This one is rather larger; it is occupied -by a man about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> sixty years old, named Patrick Hogan. He lives there -with eight women—his wife, and seven daughters or granddaughters. -They were all bare-footed and very dirty, and in the last respect the -house rivalled them, although it bore signs of great comfort. Three or -four fine sides of bacon hung from the roof. To the right of the door -stood a large sideboard, on which a dozen blue earthenware plates were -displayed, representing a Chinese landscape, with a pagoda to the right -and a bird to the left. I recognised it as the garden of Puntin-qua, at -Canton. Many years ago some English china manufacturers made a drawing -of it, and inundated the world with pseudo-Chinese productions of their -own workmanship. On the wall Mr. Gladstone’s portrait hung between -those of Mgr. Croke and Mgr. Walsh. There were also a few religious -pictures.</p> - -<p>Mr. Patrick Hogan is evidently in a superior position to that of his -neighbour. He told me his own history in well-chosen words. He also -receives 2<i>l.</i> per week. The rent of his farm was 40<i>l.</i>, and when he -was evicted he would willingly have signed a new lease at 36<i>l.</i>; but -now farming is so bad that he would not agree to more than 30<i>l.</i> He -also told me that he was two or three years’ rent in arrear.</p> - -<p>I asked him if Lord Cloncurry had not seized his cattle.</p> - -<p>“Oh, no,” said he with a cunning look; “I took care to get them all -away on the eve of the eviction. One of my neighbours is keeping them -for me.”</p> - -<p>I told him that this trick was not altogether unknown amongst us; -adding that I had even seen it carried out so skilfully, that one -farmer managed to “get away” forty or fifty oxen and cows in one night. -This<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> anecdote seemed to interest him immensely, and to confirm his -high opinion of France.</p> - -<p>“Ah, your honour,” said he, “the French are a great people!”</p> - -<p>He then inquired whether we also had a Land League—he pronounced -it <i>lague</i>—and was rather astonished when I told him that with us -a tenant who could not pay always tried to leave, and that often, -particularly just now, it was the landlords who compelled the tenants -to remain in their farms. We agreed at once that landlords <i>are a very -bad lot, all the world over</i>; he shook my hand with a vigour that -nearly dislocated the arm, and we parted the best friends in the world.</p> - -<p>I have forgotten one detail which is worth quoting. When I asked Mr. -Patrick Hogan how he passed his time, he confided to me that he had -taken some lands situate some distance from here. He held them at a -very low price, and had managed to relet them at higher rents to three -under-tenants. I asked him if he had not some trouble with his tenants. -“Ah!” he answered; “I should like to see them refuse to pay me!” A -reply that completely capsized all my notions of right and wrong, -already much shaken by everything that I had heard and seen in this -singular country!</p> - -<blockquote><p>[(April, 1887.) I have received from Ireland a request to rectify -an error, which I hasten to do at once. I said that the Limerick -butcher who took Colonel M——’s field, found his cows’ tails cut -off. It appears that this misfortune happened to the cows of a -neighbour under the same circumstances. The butcher hastened to -withdraw his cows from the boycotted meadows before they suffered -the same fate.</p> - -<p>Neither was it Colonel M——’s would-be assassin who, when lying -in a hospital in America, declared to his confessor that he had -been paid by means of a subscription in which all the tenants on -the estate had joined. The story is true, but it is applicable to -another case.]</p></blockquote> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> - -<blockquote><p class="center">LIMERICK—ADMIRABLE SELF-DEVOTION OF THE IRISH PIGS—THE -AGENTS—MALLOW—KILLARNEY—HOW ONE TRAVELS IN KERRY—MUCKROSS -ABBEY—AN IRISH HUT—DERRYGARIFF—THE ORIGIN OF AN ESTATE—THE -DRAMA OF GLENVEIGH—A DINNER IN KERRY.</p></blockquote> - -<p><i>Tuesday, July 6th.</i>—At nine o’clock this morning, I quitted the -hospitable mansion of Ballinacourty, in order to keep an appointment -which I had made with one of the most well-known agents in the south -of Ireland. It seems that the Irish railway companies share in -the general distress, or at least are doing a very poor amount of -business. This, however, is not the result of the extremely luxurious -accommodation afforded, for which our own lines are reproached. The -station at Lisnagry, where I took my ticket, simply consists of a -miserable shed leaning against a very small house; so small that one -is quite surprised to see in it a tall young man, who is very ragged, -but who discharges the triple duties of station-master, gate-keeper, -and porter. As station-master he sells me a ticket—“Limerick single;” -as gate-keeper he closes the barriers, addressing some invectives -to a dozen freckled, bare-legged girls, who were noisily discussing -their small affairs on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> the line; and lastly, as porter, he seized my -portmanteau and placed it on the seat of the compartment, responding to -my tip by piously wishing that all the saints in Paradise might bear me -company.</p> - -<p>“Thank you, your honour, and may the saints be with you, your honour!”</p> - -<p>If really they had come in answer to his prayer they would have found -themselves badly off, for the carriages are indescribably dirty; the -once blue cloth was torn in five or six places. The carpet was so -ragged that the idea at once suggested itself to me that the company -used up the remains of their worn carpets as clothing for their -servants. I point out these details for two reasons. The English who -travel by railway in France never fail to lament over the rapacity -of our officials, and over the inferiority and the dirtiness of our -carriages, etc. Besides, there is a whole class of Frenchmen who think -themselves great travellers if they have made one journey from Dover -to London, and who never lose an opportunity of going into ecstasies -over the admirable organisation of English railways. I do not consider -them superior to ours except in one respect—the transport of luggage. -In the first place, every traveller has theoretically the right to -have 100 lbs. carried, instead of 60 lbs. as with us. And further, in -practice, the quantity is almost unlimited, for the boxes are never -weighed however ponderous they may be. In other respects, as far as the -service is concerned, their system appears to consist in not having -any. The porter who takes your trunk from the cab, places it in the -van, often without labelling it. You have nothing to prove it has been -received on arriving at your destination; the box is simply pointed out -to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> another porter, who takes it from the van without any formalities. -When this succeeds, and it apparently does succeed as a rule, it is an -admirable arrangement, for, by avoiding our many formalities much loss -of time is also avoided. But it seems to me that luggage must often be -lost, and when that happens, I ask myself, on what basis can the owner -make a claim on the company.</p> - -<p>When I reached Limerick I was informed that the train for Mallow, which -I ought to take, would not leave for another hour. I profited by this -delay to visit the town. My guide-book—<i>Black’s Picturesque Tourist -in Ireland</i>—which I had consulted on my way, told me that the town -now contains 38,000 inhabitants; it is renowned for its bacon; that -formerly it contained manufactories of gloves, and some large tanyards. -Now, it seems that these industries have disappeared, or are rapidly -declining. Limerick bacon is inferior to Chicago; scarcely any gloves -are now made; and if they still prepare leather, it cannot be for the -boots of the inhabitants, for only the men wear shoes—and what shoes! -All the women and children I have met wisely and economically content -themselves with walking in the mud on the skin of their own feet.</p> - -<p>But at all events, if we believe Mr. Black, and I have no reason to -doubt his assertions, the town of Limerick offers many interesting -curiosities for the traveller’s amusement. It contains a large stone -which is the joy of all antiquarians, because on this stone in 1691, -a capitulation was signed and by its terms Sarsfield, Lord of Lucan, -who held the town, surrendered with the Irish troops under his command -to General de Ginckle who was besieging it for King<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> William. Why do -these unhappy Irishmen who are such admirable soldiers when they are -once away from their country, who in France formed the splendid Irish -Brigade who so brilliantly contributed to the victory of Fontenoy—why -do these same Irishmen always allow themselves to be defeated almost -ignominiously at home when they are fighting <i>pro aris et focis</i>? This -is one of the most inexplicable features of the national character.</p> - -<p>Mr. Black also recommends us to visit the Catholic cathedral, a ruined -castle, the bridges over the Shannon, and a number of other not less -curious objects. Unfortunately I was unable to see any of them, for I -was so much absorbed after I had left the station in contemplating the -touching and instructive spectacle around me that the curiosity of the -tourist disappeared before the emotion of the philosopher.</p> - -<p>It is a well-known fact in history that from the origin of man the -destiny of certain people is often found indissolubly bound up with -that of a particular vegetable or animal. For instance, it seems -proved that without the Egyptian leek the Jews would all have died of -misery and regret before they had finished even the smallest of the -three pyramids of Giseh. What would have become of the Arabs without -the camel and the racahou, which it appears played such an important -part amongst them before it invaded the fourth page of our newspapers? -Suppress the seal, and to-morrow there will be no Esquimaux. This is -why Jewish and Arabian poets are always most inspired when they sing -of the leek and the camel; and that if ever the Esquimaux have poets, -their poems ought to be entirely devoted to the seal. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> - -<p>The Irish are in the same case. It is proverbial amongst them that -the poor man has only two friends—his potato and his pig. In days of -distress—days, alas! so common—the potato has sometimes failed, but -the pig never! Consequently, every historian has devoted eloquent pages -to this friend of green Erin. They have described him playing with the -children of the house, sharing their food after sharing their gambols, -then sharing their beds, and when dead still sustaining the life of -the family after having cheered it during existence. It appears that -there are a number of poets who have been inspired by this subject -and who have written the most touching ballads on it. Yesterday at -Ballinacourty I already understood these sentiments. I comprehended -them still more from the moment that I entered the street from the -Limerick station.</p> - -<p>It was market day. In the square before me there were about a hundred -Irishmen, all very tipsy. If they had been alone they could never have -guided themselves. Luckily each of them had confided himself to a pig -which led him by means of a string tied to its foot. The man clung to -the cord, the pig led him gently, stopping occasionally, it is true, to -turn over the heaps of rubbish, often deviating from the path through -the zigzags taken by the man, but always ending by re-conducting him -to the right road; from time to time the man, losing his equilibrium, -caught hold of the pig’s tail, then the latter squeaked loudly, but -this was only natural. It certainly could easily have made its escape, -but this it did not attempt, it so well understood the extent of its -responsibility.</p> - -<p>They proceeded in this way, the one following the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> other, to the doors -of a large building. A flaming notice informed me that it was a bacon -factory! There they separated. The man received some money; the pig, -quite resigned, addressed a last affectionate grunt to him, and then -plunged into the crowd of its fellows, no doubt to conceal its emotion. -The man went to bury his in a tavern. It was a grand and touching -spectacle!</p> - -<p>I saw a few national costumes in the crowd, resembling those we see in -<i>Punch’s</i> caricatures. Tall, thin fellows, wear very high-crowned hats, -with slightly-drooping brims; they wear tail coats made of frieze, and -short breeches. It seems to me that it is the rich who are clothed in -this way—those who at some time in their lives have been able to have -a coat made for them. The others are simply covered with nameless rags.</p> - -<p>I have already said that all the women, almost without an exception, -are barefooted. But, alas! they are not like the pretty mulattoes in -Bourbon who are never shod through coquetry, because they wish to -preserve the pretty shape of their feet and the gracefulness of their -walk, which they consider incompatible with boots. Coquetry does not -seem to exist amongst the women of this country. The little they show -is scarcely satisfactory. Their feet are large and ill-shaped; the leg, -uncovered to the knee, has scarcely any calf; and they are horribly -dirty. A characteristic note is given to their costume by their always -wearing a shawl on the head. Many hold it drawn together before the -face with one hand, only showing, like the Lima women, one eye. This, -by the way, is the best thing they can do, for they have often fine -eyes, which relieve the ordinary type of the rest of the face. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> - -<p>It would be wrong to call them ugly, for they have a charming -expression. One never sees those little, rather pert, faces, which are -so pretty and so common amongst us. Here the dominant note is a very -sad, gentle, timid expression, which has a certain grace. But really -these poor girls ought to do like the Corsican women, who, when they go -to market, are careful before entering the town always to ford the last -stream, so that their feet are washed. I also fancy that those women -ought to comb their hair sometimes, instead of leaving it in a state of -disorder which has nothing in common with art. Many do not even fasten -it up, simply leaving it to fall about.</p> - -<p>England is the promised land of charitable associations. Some one -really ought to interest himself or herself in this matter; and my -sympathy with green Erin is so great that if some energetic English -spinster, of whom there are so many, will found a society with the -object of distributing combs amongst the young Irish women, accompanied -by tracts containing instructions how to use them, I now beg her to put -my name down on the first page of the subscription list.</p> - -<p>If this subscription succeeded well enough to enable the society also -to distribute some soap, it would be very fortunate; but it would, -I think, first be necessary to make a complete change in the nature -of the people. The English are particularly well dressed and neat. -The Irish are just the reverse. The railway servants are paid almost -as much here as in England. The difference in wages is probably more -than balanced by the greater cheapness of living. In England even the -porters are always clean; here, the station-masters are shabby. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p> - -<p>The train that was to take me to Mallow also conveyed a whole family -of Irish emigrants, composed of the parents and two or three children. -These people appeared to be in comparatively easy circumstances. The -woman wore a kind of cloak trimmed with fur. Very much preoccupied -about her luggage, she approached the porter’s pot of paste, and, in -default of a brush, she put her hand in to re-stick a label which -was coming off, and this done she wiped the hand on her cloak in the -most natural way. During this time the young brother and the mother, -probably, who were remaining behind, uttered absolute howls. I am told -that it is the usual way of crying in this country. It is called a -<i>wail</i>. It is often alluded to in the native poetry. But no one seems -to pay any attention to it.</p> - -<p>The country through which we pass is not very remarkable. It has the -same characteristics as the district I saw the day before yesterday -in going from Dublin to Limerick. We travelled towards the south. To -the east the horizon is bounded by a few hills. But the line is laid -in the middle of a large plain, which recalls a little the American -prairie. But this is distinguished by being furrowed by a number of -fences, formed by a mound of earth between two ditches—the classic -Irish jump of our steeplechases—scarcely any trees; miserable little -isolated houses show thatched roofs and whitewashed walls at long -intervals; very little agriculture—a few fields of potatoes and oats. -Here, again, the meadows have a miserable appearance; everything -requires drainage; still the grass must have some good qualities, for -we continually see very fine horses, which start off at a gallop, -frightened by the locomotive. On<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> the other hand the cattle are -indifferent and not very abundant; the pasture could easily carry a -greater number of animals here, as well as in Queen’s County.</p> - -<p>My fellow traveller was Mr. Sanders, a charming young man, who is -agent for several important estates in the neighbourhood, and who only -leaves me at Mallow. I had taken care to provide myself with letters of -introduction to several of these agents before leaving Paris, thinking -that it would be through them that I should obtain correct information -respecting the state of the country. To understand the importance of -their position, we must remember the manner in which land tenure is -regulated in Ireland.</p> - -<p>We may say that small holdings do not exist. But then we can hardly -see how they could ever have been formed. All the estates are of -considerable relative importance; at least taken with regard to their -superficial area. In other countries this constitution of the domains -would have been favourable to agriculture on a large scale. It is not -so here, because of the excessive population. The landowners always -endeavour to increase the size of the farms by diminishing the number -of them, but they never succeed, because they have to contend with -local customs. A farmer will take a farm of 60 acres, then without any -authority he divides it between his six children as they marry, and -each young couple, still without the landlord’s permission, hasten -to build a small cottage on the piece of ground allotted to them. -With each generation the land becomes further parcelled out; and thus -holdings of two acres and a half, or even less, are formed, and these -are evidently too small to feed a family.</p> - -<p>Under these circumstances the management of an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> estate becomes very -complicated, and morally speaking very painful; for the proprietors -are continually forced to use harsh measures. For this reason, all -the Irish landowners, even those who reside on the estate, confide -the management of the property to professionals, who are called -“agents.” These agents are very important personages. In our northern -departments, we might perhaps find some <i>receveurs</i> who can be compared -to them. As a rule they receive 5 per cent. upon all the rents they -collect; but all the expenses of collection, &c., fall upon them, -and these expenses are very considerable, for their receipts are so -great that frequently they have regularly organised offices. One of -those to whom I have an introduction receives commissions amounting to -4,000<i>l.</i>; only I am told that his general expenses absorb one half. I -must add that the agents form a class whose respectability is publicly -acknowledged, even by the Land Leaguers, who are naturally their -bitterest enemies. Their duties often force them, particularly during -the last few years, to incur the responsibility of measures that appear -very harsh; but in spite of this I have constantly noticed that they -are far from being as much hated as one would think. Latterly, however, -the agents have frequently been fired at, and several have been killed. -Nearly all discharge the same duties, from father to son for several -generations, and it is most curious that this profession is so well -known that young men intended for it commence by an apprenticeship -with one of their number, and even pay very heavy sums to obtain this -education. One case was cited to me where the young man paid a premium -of 120<i>l.</i></p> - -<p>Few of them manage one estate only. Most of them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> have charge of -several of varying importance. For it is a curious thing that -landowners who, amongst us, would certainly never afford themselves -the luxury of a farm bailiff; people who have not more than 320<i>l.</i> -to 400<i>l.</i> a year, have in this country nearly always recourse to an -agent; but this is of course explained by the local customs to which -we have previously alluded. Most of the estates are entailed. The -proprietors are therefore, strictly speaking, only life tenants. The -land is transmitted from male to male, in order of primogeniture, and -none of the titles can be alienated. This is called the birthright of -the elder, which has existed nearly everywhere in Europe, and which, -from an economic point of view, is far from having always produced bad -results, since agriculture has never flourished so well anywhere as in -England, where the inheritance by order of birth has been more strictly -applied than anywhere else.</p> - -<p>It is very curious that one cause of the misery in Ireland is the -result of a custom which has been introduced, and which, if it does -not restrict the system of entail in principle, at least renders -it singularly onerous. Nearly all the deeds by which the property -is entailed give a right to the owner to burden the patrimonial -inheritance with annuities payable to the younger members of the -family. For instance, a landowner having an entailed property which -brings in 4,000<i>l.</i> has the right, should he have five children, -to burden this property, with four annuities of 200<i>l.</i> each for -the support of the younger ones. When the father dies, the eldest, -therefore, only inherits 3,200<i>l.</i> per annum, whilst he still retains -all the expenses and risks of managing the estate. If his son exercises -the same right, he will only have 2,400<i>l.</i>; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> thus, from generation -to generation, the property becomes more and more “encumbered,” as they -call it here. If one of the family is an economical man, or marries -an heiress, he wipes off the mortgages, and the estate regains its -nominal value; but if nothing of this kind happens—and unfortunately, -in Ireland, it very rarely does happen—the land, which cannot be sold -because it is entailed, at last becomes so overburdened that when a -bad year comes, or the rents are not paid, the landlord does not even -receive enough to pay the annuities or charges, and he is forced to -borrow at enormous interest to enable him to meet his own requirements.</p> - -<p>It will readily be seen how these customs aggravate the situation. In -Ireland there are a number of estates which still pay “head rents” -(or annuities) given to the younger members of the family more than -two hundred years ago. The money which has been expended upon many -estates has been constantly provided by English capitalists. Until -within the last few years, these investments were greatly sought after. -As long as the rents continued to rise all went well; but now they -are diminishing, even where they have not quite disappeared, one can -imagine what happens. I dare not say the majority, but I may say that a -great number of the Irish landowners are really reduced to insolvency. -For instance, here is a case that I can verify, because I have seen -the accounts of the estate: Lord X—— has a rent-roll that, five -years ago, amounted to 32,000<i>l.</i>, but he has been obliged to agree to -a diminution of 4,000<i>l.</i> The rent-roll is therefore now reduced to -28,000<i>l.</i> If the rents were paid, which they are not, only 500<i>l.</i> -would remain as surplus in the proprietor’s hands. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p> - -<p>It is easy to understand the terrible results of this state of things. -The property I allude to has been seized by the creditors—English -bankers who have never entered the country—and they have appointed an -agent on their own account. Can any one reasonably expect that these -men, who are not in the receipt of any interest on their money, will -agree to fresh reductions?</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, if the landlords or their representatives find -themselves so placed that it is impossible for them to make the -sacrifices necessitated by the situation, it must be acknowledged that -on their side the Irish, or, at least, the Land League, often, by -their measures, render matters worse. The Irish complain bitterly of -absenteeism. The other day, at Rathmines, Sir Thomas Esmonde laid great -stress upon the fact that out of rentals amounting to 17,000,000<i>l.</i>, -more than 6,000,000<i>l.</i> go out of Ireland every year to be spent in -England. I quite admit these figures. It is evident that such a drain -of capital must be disastrous. But do not the leaders of the Land -League often use all their powers to increase it?</p> - -<p>Two very striking cases have been mentioned to me. A few years ago a -regiment was stationed at Limerick. The officers were all very rich, -and spent a great deal of money in the town. One day, I do not know -under what circumstances, the regiment openly avowed its anti-Home Rule -sympathies. It was immediately boycotted; every tradesman refused to -supply, not only the soldiers and officers, but even their families. -Feelings became embittered; quarrels were of daily occurrence; and the -regiment was recalled to England, and was not replaced—a net loss to -the town of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> 40,000<i>l.</i> a year. Is it just to reproach the English -Government for this state of things?</p> - -<p>Another example: a very rich Irish officer settled at Bruree, near -Limerick, and bought a pack of foxhounds, arranging the hunt on -the most liberal scale. He had a hundred or a hundred and fifty -hounds, thirty or forty horses, sixty or eighty keepers, grooms and -men-servants, indoors and out.</p> - -<p>After a few disputes with his tenants, the Land League boycotted him; -and the first time the hounds went out they were poisoned. He at once -dismissed all his servants, closed his house, and established himself -in Northamptonshire. It is calculated that the county now loses -20,000<i>l.</i> or 24,000<i>l.</i> per annum through his departure. He is another -“absentee”—but through whose fault?</p> - -<p>It is the Land League’s misfortune to pursue two objects, and for the -sake of one it often turns its back upon the other. The Land Leaguers -are first filled with hatred against England; they wage desperate war -against her by every means that they have at their disposal. We can -understand a little of this feeling when we read the atrocities that -the English have committed in this country even to a comparatively -recent date.</p> - -<p>“Vengeance is a divine pleasure,” says a poet; but he omitted to add -that, as a rule, vengeance is a very expensive pleasure. The Irish -are wrong in wishing and in endeavouring to avenge themselves and to -improve their position at the same time; they must choose between the -two ideas. In driving the owner of Bruree away they avenged themselves; -but they have changed the situation of this little corner<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> of Ireland -very much for the worse; and the same thing that happened at Bruree has -taken place in a hundred other localities.</p> - -<p>Mr. Sanders left me at Mallow, which we reached about half-past one. He -was obliged to go to a small village in the neighbourhood, where he had -to carry out an eviction on the following morning. He had requisitioned -a force of constabulary, of which one detachment came in our train. For -a few minutes I walked alone on the platform, and then I noticed a man -coming towards me, of middle height, thick-set, carefully shaved, his -face quite sunburnt, under very short, quite white hair. He introduces -himself as Mr. Townsend Trench, to whom some mutual friends living -in Paris have given me letters of introduction, and he had been kind -enough to come and meet me to take me to his usual residence, Lansdowne -Lodge, at Kenmare, from which he had been absent some weeks, but he was -now returning home on purpose to receive and welcome me.</p> - -<p>Mr. Trench is one of the best known persons in Ireland; his agency -is one of the most important; the estates that he manages certainly -represent the superficial area of a whole county, and are situated -in the most disturbed regions. Therefore, in the eyes of five or -six thousand tenants and their families, he is the incarnation of -landlordism; on him centres all the odium of the measures that he has -been forced to take during the war that has now lasted four years, -and he has never attempted to evade his responsibility. In all the -Parliamentary inquiries when he has been called to give evidence, he -has always spoken with unparalleled clearness. Moreover, he is not a -Roman<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> Catholic; he does not even belong to the Established Church, -but is one of the most active members of a particular sect called -the Plymouth Brotherhood. Nothing was therefore lacking to prevent -his becoming the <i>bête noire</i> of the whole country side, yet it is a -singular coincidence—and this proves the man’s real value—that of all -the agents he is perhaps the least detested. No one has ever attempted -to murder him—but this may possibly be a little due to the fact that -he is credited with being one of the best shots in Ireland; he has -never been formally boycotted—that is to say, the Land League has -never laid him under an interdict; he has even retained personal and -almost amicable relations with its principal chiefs. The other day at -Dublin, Mr. Harrington, the general secretary of the League, when he -heard that I was to be the guest of Mr. Trench, began to laugh.</p> - -<p>“Oh,” said he, “you are going to Trench; you could not do better to -hear the other side of the question. I knew him well formerly, and I -have preserved a great esteem for him, although we have not two ideas -in common. Tell him so from me. Have you heard the pun they have made -about him?—’One Trench is enough to drain all Ireland!’”</p> - -<p>Under the guidance of this man, whose personal worth is so great that -he has won respect and even sympathy from his bitterest political -enemies, I am now about to visit part of county Kerry, the most -disturbed district in Ireland.</p> - -<p>We took our tickets for Killarney, and from there we shall drive to -Kenmare, passing through the most picturesque scenery in the country. -Every year a number of tourists flock there, an excursion to Lake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> -Killarney being an indispensable item in every tour round Ireland.</p> - -<p>Shortly after our departure from Mallow we approached a mountainous -region, and, although trees are rare in Ireland, where there are -scarcely any forests, these mountains are covered with brushwood. The -town of Killarney itself contains 6,000 inhabitants (again I quote Mr. -Black), and it is built near to a lake. As we had nearly twenty-five -miles to drive before we could reach Kenmare we went into the hotel to -lunch. The landlord came forward to make a sad complaint to Mr. Trench. -The poor man adjudged politics, the Land League, and above all, the -newspaper reporters, to the infernal regions. There had been so many -murders in the neighbourhood, so many outrages as they say here, and -the journalists have painted the state of the country in such black -colours, that the tourists have taken fright and have gone to quieter -countries. His hotel is empty or nearly so. He appears so disconsolate -that I feel I ought to say a few consoling words to him.</p> - -<p>“Sir,” said I, “allow a stranger, who is quite disinterested in the -matter, to give you a little advice. You must evidently take some -steps. You must give up the timid tourist. But there exist, thank -heaven, other varieties of tourists! Why do not you examine the -position of affairs and find an attraction for romantic tourists—those -who on their return home enjoy making their neighbours shudder while -relating to them the dangers from which they have escaped during the -holidays? The Neapolitan hotels are always so full when there is -any chance of an eruption of Vesuvius that, if we can believe the -newspapers, the innkeepers there have combined and have promised a -large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> reward to Professor Palmieri, a man who has made the study of -volcanoes his speciality, if he will organise artificial eruptions -when the syndicates desire them. At Ajaccio an hotel-keeper of my -acquaintance subsidises a brigand, the celebrated Ballacoscia—a -wonderful man! Twice a week he leaves his house at Pentica to settle in -a very picturesque grotto above Boccognano, near the railway station. -He receives travellers there. I have known several old English ladies -who have for five pounds bought the stiletto with which he avenged his -sister’s honour. Another, to whom he gave a lock of his hair, sent to -England for a capital waterproof for him to use in his professional -excursions. All these small benefits or gains are amicably divided -between the intelligent innkeeper and the brigand, and every one is -content. Why do not you attempt something of the same kind? In your -place I should ask Mr. Trench to arrange a small eviction in the -neighbourhood every week. You may rest assured that amongst the evicted -family you could always arrange to have a venerable looking old man -and a few pretty girls who would wail together harmoniously. You could -organise excursion trains. For two shillings there might be a simple -eviction; for three shillings an old woman of ninety should be forcibly -carried from the house by the police; and for four shillings the police -should be received with volleys of stones. Take my advice, think over -the idea. Perhaps it contains the solution of the Irish question. For I -hope that you would give good fees to your company of performers.”</p> - -<p>The Killarney innkeeper listened to me with great interest. I heard -him mutter “Bedad! there is something in that.” And after vigorously -shaking hands he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> accompanied us to the carriage, where I seated myself -with Mr. Trench and his secretary, a tall young man, named Lewis.</p> - -<p>“You are not afraid to sit next to me?” said Mr. Trench laughing. “We -shall pass through some of our worst villages. If any one shoots at me -you will have your share of the charge.”</p> - -<p>“Bah!” I answered, “every landlord that I have met has been shot at two -or three times. Your boys seem very unskilful!”</p> - -<p>“All right! Drive on, Dick. Lewis, is your revolver loaded?”</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir; here it is.”</p> - -<p>“Ah! I must change the cartridges in mine.”</p> - -<p>This is how we travel through county Kerry in the year of grace 1886.</p> - -<p>But the surprises in store for me had not yet come to an end.</p> - -<p>We had scarcely gone a hundred paces before Mr. Trench showed me an -enormous building that we were passing on our right. “Do you see the -castle down there?” said he. “Lord X—— lives there. Three years ago, -after a dispute with one of his tenants, he was informed that his -castle was doomed. It had been agreed that it should be blown up with -dynamite. The Government at once sent off twenty constables, who are -still there. Ten keep guard during the day and ten during the night. -They cost the Government 2,000<i>l.</i> per annum.”</p> - -<p>“Do you really believe that if the men were withdrawn the castle would -be blown up?”</p> - -<p>“I am absolutely certain of it. The dynamite is already prepared.” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p> - -<p>The next moment we quitted the road and entered a fine park, bordered -by the lake.</p> - -<p>“We will get down here,” said Mr. Trench. “I want to show you the ruins -of Muckross Abbey.”</p> - -<p>Before us, on a small eminence, I saw a large wall pierced by pointed -arched windows, which I recognised at once, for all the Irish railway -carriages are ornamented with photographs of it. The abbey was founded, -it is said, in 1440. Now, only a few towers and a very curious little -cloister remain, and in the centre a magnificent yew tree has grown. -The ground outside of the chapel is still used as a cemetery for the -members of certain families. After all, in my opinion, the ruins are -hardly worthy of the reputation they have acquired.</p> - -<p>As we were re-entering the carriage a man came running out.</p> - -<p>“There’s two shillings a head to pay, please your honours,” cried he.</p> - -<p>“Do you take us for tourists by any chance?” said Mr. Trench, whom he -had not at first seen.</p> - -<p>The man, laughing, bowed low, and then without any further demand on us -ran to a carriage full of Americans who had just driven up.</p> - -<p>“Now look at the castle,” continued Trench. “It was built by the father -of the present owner, Mr. H——, of Muckross. He spent 40,000<i>l.</i> upon -it—something like a million of your francs. Everything that you see -is derived from the estate. Still it is what is called ‘an encumbered -estate.’ It has been seized by creditors, and Mr. H—— is now in -America. He was an officer, but was compelled to resign his commission, -and to work as clerk in a New York attorney’s office. Do you know how -they keep up the paths and replace the slates on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> the roof?—with the -shillings that poor old man makes the tourists pay him for relating the -history of the abbey! This is what we are reduced to in Ireland!”</p> - -<p>The road gradually ascended, skirting the mountains which overlook the -lake. These mountains are covered with woods containing handsome beech, -fir, and other trees, and even a few oaks.</p> - -<p>“Look there,” said Trench, pointing them out to me, “those are fine -trees, are they not? The Canadian and Norwegian firs are now brought to -us so cheaply that the few trees we possess are not worth the expense -of cutting down. The only deer now left in Ireland are here. From time -to time there is a hunt to amuse the tourists. After an hour the animal -takes to the water The hounds are recoupled, and the stag escapes with -a bath!”</p> - -<p>As we ascend, the landscape becomes more charming. At our feet on the -right we see the largest lake in Killarney, covered with islets, that -at a distance resemble bouquets of verdure. The stream that flows at -the bottom of the valley feeds three or four others that we pass by -in succession. By degrees the woods disappear, and the mountains seem -bristling with huge grey rocks.</p> - -<p>This rough country, however, is not a desert. Wherever the rocks have -held a little vegetable earth one sees a small field, and then by -looking carefully we finally perceive a small hut. There are people -vegetating there.</p> - -<p>Catching sight of one of these houses not far from the road, between us -and the stream, I asked Mr. Trench to allow me to visit it.</p> - -<p>“Wait a moment,” said he, “I will go with you. Tell<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> them that you -are French, and give them a shilling, then you are certain to be well -received.”</p> - -<p>We descended by a goats’-path. I wish to assure my readers that the -details that follow are strictly true, and that all the figures were -written down on the spot.</p> - -<p>The house in front of us was about eight yards long by five wide. One -of the gables is formed by the vertical side of a large rock against -which it leans. The other gable and the two side walls are built of dry -stone. The walls are only about six feet high, but the roof is very -sloping, and this renders the inside room sufficiently lofty.</p> - -<p>The roof is formed of a few bundles of reeds and clods of grass which -rest on a dozen bare poles. There is neither chimney nor window, and -the earth is the floor. The smoke escapes as it best can through the -numerous holes in the roof. The little daylight that enters can only -come in by the same way. The occupiers walk about on the mud. The -hearth, on which a few clods of turf are burning, is formed by four or -five stones arranged in a circle. The opening that is used as a doorway -must also serve as the entrance for every wind, for there is not the -least trace of anything to close it with. With regard to furniture, I -can only discover a saucepan, a kind of watering pot, an old, broken -iron bedstead, on which an old blanket is thrown, and which stands to -the left of the door, between it and the rock; on the right there is a -camp bedstead, formed of a few planks supported by stakes The family, -which surrounds us, consists of a man about forty years old, his wife, -his mother-in-law, who is about seventy-seven and quite blind, and four -children from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> ten to two years old. I never saw such utter misery in -any part of the world. The man is covered with tattered garments that -can hardly, strictly speaking, be called clothes. He has also shoes. In -this country agriculture is all carried on with a spade. Now in order -to dig with a spade one must have shoes. This is why the men are the -only members of a family who wear anything on their feet. The nameless -rags that are wrapped round the women and children defy description. -The old woman, who is blind, as I have said, only wears a chemise and a -skirt that scarcely reaches her knees. These two garments are in such a -state that she is really almost naked. When she tries to walk she drags -herself from rock to rock in order not to fall, testing the ground -with her feet which are covered with cuts. The other woman is dressed -in about the same style. The two smaller children are quite naked, and -they certainly look the best. But it is terrible to see the sickly -skin, the hollow cheeks, and drawn features of these poor people who -are evidently suffering from hunger.</p> - -<p>How can it be otherwise? When the husband gets any work it is on the -road, and he earns a shilling a day; but he rarely finds anything to -do, and the money only pays the rent. The whole family must therefore -live on the produce of two cows and the potato field. I asked if I -might see it.</p> - -<p>A few steps from the hut a bank of rocks rises at the foot of the -mountain, the tableland thus formed arrests the soil that the rain -brings down from the heights above, the layer of vegetable mould is -therefore a little thicker there than elsewhere. It is this tableland -that has been cleared. I measured it. It is about sixty-two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> yards long -by twenty-nine wide. I notice that only seven or eight hundred yards of -the enclosure are really fit for cultivation. I am then shown the cows; -they are two miserable little thin beasts of the native race, called -Kerry cows; they are as thin as the horse in the Apocalypse and jump -like chamois over the rocks that surround them. I asked myself what -they could possibly find to eat.</p> - -<p>The man had built his own house, but, after all, that had not taken -him long. His landlord has, therefore, only given him the field I have -just seen, and the right of pasturage for his two cows, while for this -handsome establishment, that he pompously calls a farm, the wretched -man pays 3<i>l.</i> per annum. The price is absolutely ridiculous; but even -if he paid nothing at all, supposing he was given the whole place, -a field of sixty-two yards long by twenty-nine wide cannot possibly -provide food for a family of six or seven persons, nor even provide -work for the man. Nor is there any manufacture in the neighbourhood -which could employ him. If he were the owner instead of the tenant, -even if he had not one penny of taxes nor of rent to pay, he and his -family would still die of hunger; and I defy all those gentlemen in -O’Connell Street to prove the contrary. What, then, is the object of -making him a landowner? They would attach him to the soil like a rock; -and the soil will not feed him. At least, in the present state of -things; he would go away if he retains any common-sense. Nothing could -be droller—if it is possible to use this word in speaking of such sad -subjects—than the manner in which these little inquiries are made. Mr. -Trench was the first to enter the house, twirling his shillalah with an -easy air. The two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> women, crouched in a corner near the fire, did not -move; the youngest only looked askance at us.</p> - -<p>“Good morning, ladies! How are you?” said Mr. Trench.</p> - -<p>A grunt was the only answer.</p> - -<p>“Here is a French gentleman who wishes to see your house. You well know -what Frenchmen are!”</p> - -<p>“Ah! your honour!” stammered the old woman. “There—I have heard of the -French! may the blessed Virgin Mary be with them! Will they not come -soon? When they are here we shall be less miserable! God bless them!”</p> - -<p>The young one joined in chorus. We heard a running fire of pious -ejaculations, to each of which Mr. Trench devoutly shouted “Amen!” -The noise made it impossible to hear oneself speak. The old woman -was particularly terrible, her voice was so piercing. Then from time -to time Trench gave a great thump on the ground with his stick, -exclaiming, though still with the utmost politeness, “Whish’t! my dear -madam! whish’t!” I had always heard that “whish’t” meant silence. It -appears that this is so, only it is not in English, but in Irish. But I -never saw anything so strange as the way in which the conversation was -thus carried on. It had, at all events, the effect of putting us on the -best terms with the whole family—a result which the distribution of a -few sixpences perhaps tended to accelerate. The women then conducted us -back to the carriage, overwhelming us with the noisiest benedictions.</p> - -<p>“Let me understand,” said I to Mr. Trench as soon as we were a little -way from the cottage. “Will you explain to me how you can ask 3<i>l.</i> -rent from those unfortunate people for less than an acre of very bad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> -land and for the right of valueless pasturage that is absolutely -visionary, for you see the state of his two cows?”</p> - -<p>“Allow me to wait a few moments before answering your questions,” he -replied.</p> - -<p>Ten minutes later we came to a bend in the road, which having now -reached the top of the hillock that we had been ascending since we -left Killarney, turns suddenly to the left, and then re-descends -into another valley, still wilder than the first, and where there -are no more trees. The names in this country are so diabolic that I -avoid writing them down as much as possible, because I foresee that -the proofs would have to be sent at least four times to the printers -before we could expect the compositors to reproduce them as they are -spelt. Another thing is that nine-tenths of my French readers would -abandon the attempt to read them. For instance, the valley we have -just passed through is called Coom-a-Dhuv; the last lake we saw is -the Loc-an-bric-Dearg; the mountain opposite is Cro-mag-lan; and the -pass by which we go from one valley to another bears the soft name -of Derrygariff. One of my old relations often excites herself about -the obstinacy that leads English people to say <i>pocket-handkerchief</i> -when it would be so much easier to pronounce <i>mouchoir de poche</i>. -And really, without going so far as this worthy lady, I cannot help -thinking that it must be very tiring in the end to be obliged to utter -such long words, and that it must seriously complicate existence.</p> - -<p>We are now at Derrygariff, since there is a Derrygariff. On the right -side of the road stands a horrible house of dry stones, from which an -old woman came out, very dry too, and not less tattered than those whom -we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> had just left. On seeing her, Trench abruptly leaned back in the -carriage. She rushed towards us, crying in a whining voice:</p> - -<p>“Just a penny, your honour! And may the Blessed Virgin be with your -honour!”</p> - -<p>“Amen,” growled Trench, suddenly showing himself like a devil springing -from a holy-water vase.</p> - -<p>The old woman drew back thunderstruck.</p> - -<p>“Tell me then, Mrs. Finnigan; will you please tell me who authorised -you to settle under-tenants on your land?”</p> - -<p>“Holy Virgin! Mother of God!” said Mrs. Finnigan, stupefied. Then, at -once assuming an amiable expression:</p> - -<p>“Eh! is it good Mr. Trench? May God protect him! He’s a sight to cure -sore eyes. And I took him for a tourist!”</p> - -<p>“I see that,” continued Trench, “and you are not ashamed to beg, -although, to my knowledge, you have 500<i>l.</i> in the bank at Kenmare? But -you have not answered my question. Who is this under-tenant that you -have settled on your land?”</p> - -<p>“Oh, Mr. Trench! To accuse us of under-letting our land. Holy Mother -of God! Never! It is only a poor man who asked leave to settle there; -now we can’t turn him off; and then, taking pity upon him, we engaged -him as caretaker, and we are only paid for the land he occupies by his -work upon ours, or upon the roads, because my husband has undertaken -the care of the roads. Your honour, the poor must help each other, your -honour!”</p> - -<p>“Ah! Just so. I see how it is,” said Trench. “Drive on, Dick.” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p> - -<p>Then, turning towards me:</p> - -<p>“Now do you understand? You heard that impudent hussy explain in a few -words the system of under-tenants, which is one of the worst plagues -in Ireland, and for which they account us responsible. Finnigan, -her husband, rents a farm of ninety acres; he also has the right of -pasturage on the mountains. As far as I recollect, he pays a rent of -15<i>l.</i> or 20<i>l.</i> a year. You see that it is pretty moderate; and the -proof that it is not let too dearly is that he has made large savings, -in spite of the bad years that we have passed through. He is an active, -intelligent man, but horribly avaricious. You saw the house he lives -in; he would not improve it for anything in the world, because his -wife and children never fail to ask alms from passing tourists, and he -considers that it is especially desirable to arouse their pity. Now, -without saying a word to us, he under-lets the land. You have just -seen one of his tenants; perhaps he has three or four others hidden in -different corners; and you have heard the money he demands from them. -His rents are never in arrear; they are even paid in advance, because -he is careful to have them paid by the man’s work.</p> - -<p>“You must remember that this arrangement is strictly forbidden; first -by the lease, and afterwards by the law. To avoid difficulties, -the unfortunate man is reported as his landlord’s servant. He can, -therefore, at any moment be turned out of the house that he has built -himself.</p> - -<p>“What can be done in the matter? I could certainly get rid of him by -ejectment. But I should have to summons him, then obtain a company -of soldiers, receive stones and mud from the whole population; risk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> -a fight, in which one or two men may be killed; and then be called a -tyrant by the newspapers. From time to time, when the abuse gets too -flagrant, I make an example, but as a rule I close my eyes.</p> - -<p>“Good heavens!” he continued, “I don’t know what they reproach us for! -First they say that in bygone days the land was confiscated—taken -from its rightful owners. We will admit that to be true. Four or five -hundred years have passed since the event took place that they are -alluding to. But how did the old landowners get possession of the land? -By conquest, as a rule, if not always. And why should conquest create a -more legitimate title than confiscation?</p> - -<p>“Besides, I altogether deny that all the landed estates in this country -were acquired through confiscation. We are, at this moment, on the -Marquis of Lansdowne’s estate, the present Governor of Canada. He owns -100,000 acres here, all in a ring fence. Now this is how the estate -came into the family.</p> - -<p>“You see how bad the land is. Two hundred years ago the country was -absolutely a desert. At that time all the mountains you now see bare -were covered with forests; in the last century they were cut down to -provide the wood required for fuel. One of the ancestors of the present -marquis came over, settled here, and obtained a concession of the -land on the condition that he brought it into cultivation. At his own -expense he brought the labourers. He built the town of Kenmare, where -we are now going. It still belongs entirely to the family. Afterwards, -in recognition of his services, he received the title of Marquis of -Lansdowne.</p> - -<p>“He therefore created the property. It did not exist<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> before he came to -the country. The land was as barren as Greenland may be now. He brought -the soil into good condition, and all the ancestors of the people now -living here came with him. I do not say that in Ireland there are many -estates that have the same history as this one; but can there be in -the whole world a property which has a more legitimate and respectable -origin?</p> - -<p>“How can they say that the landowners have not done enough for their -estates? Assuredly there are some of them who are not above reproach -on this score. But towards many of them the accusation is most unjust. -This estate never brought in more than 15,000<i>l.</i>; now it only produces -7,000<i>l.</i> Since I have managed it I have spent more than 25,000<i>l.</i> -in improvements of every description, and, I may add, in improvements -that are quite unproductive for the owner, since the income is always -decreasing. Look at that small house. I built it last year for a tenant -with whom I was much pleased, and whom I wished to encourage. It cost -me 120<i>l.</i>, and his rent—which was not increased one penny—is 14<i>l.</i></p> - -<p>“Now, look over there, at that group of abominable tumble-down huts, -which are quite as bad as the one we visited just now. One of the -tenants had six sons. He gave up portions of the farm in order to -settle them upon it. Each of them, when he married, built a house, and -he now lives here, cultivating the tenth part of the original farm, -which did not exceed about thirty acres. These divisions were all made -without our permission. Each of the sons has five or six children; -there are therefore thirty acres of land—and bad land too—from which -they expect to get food for forty-five<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> or fifty persons, and this in -a country which, properly speaking, is only fit for stock raising! How -can they escape dying of hunger? They answer by telling me that in -certain parts of China the land supports still more people.</p> - -<p>“Apparently the climate and the land are better there than with us; -here it is impossible. When one is dealing with the first tenant, one -calculates that a family of five or six people can live off the farm; -now they want to make it support forty or fifty. There is a limit to -the earth’s productiveness, and this limit has been already passed.</p> - -<p>“We must always return to the fact that the great misfortune is the -lack of manufactures. I have done all in my power to acclimatise them -over here, but I have never succeeded. I asked a celebrated geologist -to come and examine and ascertain what resources the country might -offer. He left at the end of a week, telling me that he should be -robbing me if he stayed any longer. There is a little iron, but since -we have no coal to work it with we cannot hope to make it profitable.</p> - -<p>“I turned to another quarter for help. If we had not the raw material, -at least labour was cheap. We thought that we might utilise that by -establishing a manufactory which would have for its aim the production -of objects that required but little raw material. Our railway companies -import all their requisites from England. I wrote to some English -capitalists: we had been studying to ascertain if these requisites -could not be made in Ireland. Whatever combinations were adopted, even -at the lowest calculation, we could never see our way to pay more than -3 per cent. on the capital<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> invested. Another thing, who would be mad -enough to establish a manufactory in a country where now every one is -at the mercy of an occult and irresponsible power like the Land League, -which has often prevented vessels from loading or unloading, solely -because the owner of the ship had infringed or not obeyed some of its -orders? Imagine a factory suddenly boycotted without warning! What -would become of the shareholders?</p> - -<p>“It is only too evident that the present state of things cannot last. -Is it admissible that a Government should spend 2,000<i>l.</i> per annum -for an indefinite period to keep policemen on guard over that castle I -have just shown you? It would be easier and more economical to let the -Nationalists blow it up, except for the indemnity to which the owner -might become entitled. But there are ten others in the same position.</p> - -<p>“Where is the remedy? Unhappily, we cannot see any sign of it. Mr. -Gladstone has come to an understanding with the Land League, and one -plan is now proposed. They wish to dispossess the landlords, and to -make the peasants landowners. But let us consider what the practical -results of that measure would be. Let us take, for instance, the case -of the tenant of whom we were speaking just now. He has not paid one -penny of rent for the last three years. Are he and his forty children -and grandchildren any richer on that account? They are near dying of -hunger; and if they should die of hunger, it is because they insist -upon existing on the produce of thirty acres of very middling land. -If we imagine him the owner of the thirty acres, in what way will the -situation be improved? Will that change make the land any better, or -the climate less moist?</p> - -<p>“Besides, he would not retain the ownership very long.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> In every -village there is a pawnbroker, on whose premises all the furniture -accumulates belonging to the peasants, and who often buys their -harvests before they are reaped. They are all in debt to the grocer and -to the manure merchant—even the bonnets worn by the women on Sundays -are all bought on credit. Three months after the land had been given to -them they would have found means to mortgage it, if possible, at double -its value.</p> - -<p>“More than that, is it quite certain that they wish to become -landowners as much as is pretended? It does not seem at all certain to -me. As soon as the principles of the Land Act were known, a landlord, -whose property I manage, wrote to me, saying that he authorised me -to treat with all his tenants on that basis. He has more than eight -hundred! I gave them all the opportunity of accepting the arrangement; -they all refused, without a single exception.</p> - -<p>“However, some of them told me that they were willing to treat with me, -but the conditions they proposed were absolutely inadmissible. Judge -for yourself.</p> - -<p>“They desired that I should accept as a basis, not the reduced rents -that had been already fixed by the Land Commissioners, who, however, -had already reduced the rentals on an average from 25 to 30 per cent., -but that those rents should again be reduced 25 per cent. Then instead -of multiplying this figure by 20, according to the provisions of the -Land Act, making the price of purchase 20 years’ rent, they wished to -multiply it by 12 or 13 only. So that the owner of a property that five -years ago brought in 400<i>l.</i>, and was then worth about 8,000<i>l.</i> or -9,000<i>l.</i> first saw his rents reduced by 100<i>l.</i>, and then by the terms -of the Land Act, the price of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> expropriation or forced sale would have -been but 6,000<i>l.</i> (300<i>l.</i> × 20); he had already therefore to submit -to a loss of from 2,000<i>l.</i> to 3,000<i>l.</i> of his capital. But I was -authorised to accept this valuation.</p> - -<p>“They, however, proposed to diminish the original rental by another -25 per cent., which would thereby be reduced to 200<i>l.</i>, and then by -multiplying the 200<i>l.</i> by 12, the purchase-money would be 2,400<i>l.</i>, -twelve years’ purchase. They, therefore, would have it inferred that in -five years the property had lost more than three-fourths of its value.</p> - -<p>“Now on nine-tenths of all Irish estates the annual charges and -expenses exceed, and greatly exceed, one-fourth of the average income. -Nine times out of ten, therefore, the indemnity for expropriation would -not suffice to pay off the debts. Not a single penny would reach the -unlucky proprietors. Frankly, now, can we wonder that they refuse to -aid in their own ruin?”</p> - -<p>Whilst he was speaking to me I was looking at the country we were -passing through. An artist would find a certain charm in it, but in the -eyes of an agriculturist its appearance is lamentable. On all sides -are rocky, barren mountains; we have not seen a tree since we left -Derrygariff. The streams daily wash a little more of the thin layer -of vegetable mould from the great schistic blocks that are visible -on all sides, carrying it down to the turf pits that fill the bottom -of the valley. The destruction of the forests has been another great -misfortune for this country, and I asked Mr. Trench if he had never -tried to re-establish plantations.</p> - -<p>“Replant!” said he. “In the first place, as I have already told you, -wood has no value here because of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> timber imported from Canada and -Norway; and in the second, if I replanted the mountains, the farmers -would hasten to complain to the Land League that I was depriving their -cattle of pasturage, and my plantations would soon cease to exist. -They all have goats; and you know how little time goats require to -destroy young trees. If I wished to replant these mountains or simply -to cultivate them on a new method, I must begin by sending the tenants -away. Mr. Adair tried to do it, and you know how that business ended.”</p> - -<p>I had heard Mr. Adair’s history. A few years ago it was much discussed -both in Ireland and England. It is one of the most typical cases that -I can quote. It shows that in this unhappy country the most elementary -exercise of the rights of ownership may entail serious complications.</p> - -<p>In 1859 Mr. Adair bought the estate of Derryveigh, in Donegal. It was a -very mountainous and very poor district. There was scarcely any of the -land under cultivation; the tenants only kept a few cows and goats.</p> - -<p>Rightly or wrongly, Mr. Adair thought that sheep-breeding would -be profitable. But to organise that undertaking he was obliged to -make some alterations in the farms, and thereby produced great -dissatisfaction amongst the population. One day the sheep disappeared -as though by magic. The peasants declared that they had died of hunger -on the mountains, and, in fact, a great many of them were found dead -at the bottom of the precipices, but Mr. Adair’s shepherds asserted -that the sheep had been stolen, and the strict search instituted by -the police confirmed their statements, for undeniable proofs were -found that a certain number of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> them had been eaten. The County Court -accepted the facts, and condemned the parishes to pay rather heavy -damages to Mr. Adair, and this naturally considerably envenomed their -relations. At length one evening the chief shepherd did not return from -an expedition he had made on the mountain. His body was found—he had -been murdered; but the peasants assisted the police so badly that the -murderers were never discovered.</p> - -<p>Mr. Adair was exasperated to the last degree. The crime took place near -the hamlet of Glenveigh, and it was also here that traces of the lost -sheep had been found. He declared that he considered the tenants at -Glenveigh morally responsible for all that had happened, and that he -intended getting rid of them all.</p> - -<p>When this decision was announced the priest and the Protestant minister -sent him a joint letter, pointing out that the consequences of such a -determination must weigh heavily upon the innocent, and begging him not -to carry out his intentions.</p> - -<p>Mr. Adair replied that his decision was irrevocable; all the tenants -must leave Glenveigh. But, in recognition of the fact that there might -be some foundation for his correspondents’ observations, he declared -that he was ready to find new farms on another part of the estate, and -for which he would grant leases, to all the old tenants who could bring -letters of recommendation from either of the reverend gentlemen.</p> - -<p>I cannot resist entering into the minutest details of this story, for -it reveals a state of affairs that, to us Frenchmen, appears quite -incomprehensible. I have taken all these details from <i>New Ireland</i>—a -very interesting book by Mr. Sullivan, one of the most eminent members -of the Irish Nationalist party. Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> Gray, the editor of the <i>Freeman’s -Journal</i>, advised me to read it, telling me that it is one of the -best written books that have appeared on Ireland. I am convinced that -the author fully intended to relate these events with the utmost -impartiality. But, after all, if he shows a little partiality in -his recitals, it is evidently not for Mr. Adair, whose conduct he -stigmatises as frightful.</p> - -<p>Well, here are the facts. Mr. Adair believed that a small village, -entirely occupied by his tenants, was a nest of thieves. And he had -good reason to believe it, since the police had given him the proofs. -Moreover, one of his servants had been killed, and everything seemed -to indicate that the murderer, if he did not belong to the village, -was, at all events, well known to the inhabitants. It is impossible, in -my opinion, not to think that Mr. Adair acted very wisely. And I must -add that his propositions to the priest and the minister appear to me -indications of an intention to pursue a most moderate course.</p> - -<p>But I go still further. What landowner in France has not found it -necessary to join three farms into one simply to diminish the number of -buildings, and to reduce the working expenses? To do this he is obliged -to send away two farmers. Who dare maintain that in doing so he was -committing a criminal action? Is any progress possible if this theory -be admitted? But we will continue the story of Glenveigh.</p> - -<p>Mr. Adair, therefore, gave due and formal notice to all the inhabitants -of Glenveigh that they must leave their houses. Not one of them moved. -On the contrary, they all intimated that they would offer every -resistance, if not active, at least passive, to any <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>endeavour to turn -them out. Mr. Adair, therefore, according to custom, presented himself -before the authorities at Dublin, and, having affirmed upon oath that -he considered that the men employed in the eviction would be exposed to -personal danger in the discharge of their duties, he demanded that they -should be protected by the police. The authorities thoroughly shared -his views on the subject, and at once ordered a regular army corps to -proceed to his assistance. Two hundred constables assembled, and thirty -soldiers, under the command of an officer from Dublin garrison, joined -their party.</p> - -<p>These operations commenced on the 8th April, and here I recite as -literally as possible:</p> - -<p>When they reached Lough-Barra the police halted. The sheriff, -accompanied by a small escort, advanced towards a house occupied by -a widow named M’Award, aged sixty, who lived there with her seven -children—six girls and one boy.</p> - -<p>The sheriff, forced to carry out his painful duties, entered the house -and put Mr. Adair’s agent in possession.</p> - -<p>Six men, engaged for the purpose, immediately began to pull down the -house. The scene that followed baffles description. The despair of the -unhappy widow and her daughters amounted to frenzy. Stretched on the -floor, they at first appeared insensible, but soon recovering, they -gave vent to that terrible Irish lamentation called the ‘Irish wail.’ -The whole valley resounded with their cries.</p> - -<p>All the inhabitants burst into tears.</p> - -<p>The eviction was not ended until Monday evening. Before leaving his -house for the last time an old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> man of eighty knelt down and kissed the -doorpost. His wife and children imitated his example.</p> - -<p>In the evening the scene became particularly distressing. None of these -unfortunate people had been able to resign themselves to leave the -ruins of their homes. They lighted fires and camped out under a pouring -rain, sheltering themselves as they best could under the hedges.</p> - -<p>Mr. Sullivan then relates that a subscription was immediately raised. -Funds arrived from all sides. An Irish Society in Australia offered -to defray all the expenses of the voyage if the unhappy people would -emigrate. They had already dispersed. However, traces of them all were -soon discovered; some of them were dead. One man, named Bradley, had -gone mad.</p> - -<p>When all those who were willing to leave were assembled, they first -went to the cemetery to gather some blades of grass from the graves of -their parents, to carry away as mementoes of their home. Their priest, -the Rev. Mr. O’Fadden, accompanied them to Liverpool. This young priest -had never, since their troubles, ceased to pay the most admirable and -devoted attention to them.</p> - -<p>I was on the quay at Dublin, continued Mr. Sullivan, when these -unfortunate people embarked and quitted Irish soil. I prayed to God, -that in His mercy He would compensate them for the misery they had -endured. Six months later, I received a letter from Mr. O’Grady, -telling me that they had all arrived safely at their destination, and -that they started in the colony with every chance of success.</p> - -<p>This story is certainly very touching; but, after all,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> the moral of -it, if it contains one at all, is that those people, who were very -unhappy in Ireland, are now prospering in Australia, and that if they -were invited to return to Glenveigh they would probably all refuse.</p> - -<p>But if Mr. Sullivan, with the money produced by his book, should buy -a house and let it, how could he, if he felt inclined to change the -internal arrangements, turn his tenant out?—this is what I should like -to know. And if the old man of eighty was so unwilling to leave his -native land, why did he not ask the Rev. Mr. O’Fadden to speak to Mr. -Adair for him, and he would then have received a tenancy where he could -have died in peace?</p> - -<p>We reached Kenmare about six o’clock. It is a pretty little port, -situated on one of the deepest of the innumerable bays that the great -Atlantic rollers have washed out of the west coast of Ireland; they -form havens that would be invaluable for commerce—if there were any. -There is a gate in the chief square of Kenmare, I may say the only -square, through which we enter a beautiful park, and in the midst of -it stands one of those small English villas, which look foolish when -they are placed side by side in a row, but which, standing alone, are -really charming. This one is hidden under a thick mantle of climbing -plants, through which the large glass panes of the bow windows glitter -brightly. This is Lansdowne Lodge, the residence provided by the -Marquis of Lansdowne for the use of his agent.</p> - -<p>The interior is not less delightful than the exterior. The hall is -ornamented with a number of deer and elk horns, found in admirable -preservation in the turf pits.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> I had already seen some superb -specimens the other day at Sir Croker Barrington’s. To the left opens a -dining-room, where at eight o’clock some of the inhabitants of Kenmare -assembled, to whom Mr. Trench wished to introduce me. The chief dish on -the table was a splendid salmon that one of these gentlemen had killed -two hours before. The conversation was most lively and interesting, -but really whilst listening to it one feels in a dream. For instance, -I discover that in compliment to me these gentlemen have consented to -dine away from home, but that it is a very exceptional circumstance, -and they are not sure that they may not regret it. No one dare go -out at night for fear of being shot. One of them, who is employed on -the estate, has just heard that he is to be boycotted, because of an -eviction in which he was concerned. He expected that on the morrow the -butcher would refuse to supply him with meat, but he consoled himself -by the reflection that he had some biscuits and some tins of preserves -in the house.</p> - -<p>After dinner we went to Mr. Trench’s study to smoke. I sat down by a -small table on which stood a candlestick, and placed my coffee by it.</p> - -<p>“Excuse me, dear sir,” said one of the guests, addressing me, half -laughing, half serious, “but you are wrong to sit there. You see, if -any one fired at us through the window you might be hurt. There, allow -me to move your chair a little. Now you are safe. And besides, hanging -on the wall within reach of your hand you have a loaded revolver and a -tomahawk—both excellent weapons. Try the edge of the tomahawk. Look, -too, on the mantel-piece, there is a bowie knife; some people prefer a -bowie knife, but I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> like the tomahawk best, and this one is extremely -sharp.”</p> - -<p>I effusively thanked this amiable gentleman. The conversation became -general, and the guests discussed weapons. Each drew a revolver from -his pocket and warmly defended his own theories. They all agreed that -Mr. Trench’s revolver was too small. He was sitting about five or six -paces from me on the other side of the chimney.</p> - -<p>“Ah!” said they, “you may be the best shot in the country, but you are -wrong to use such a short weapon, it cannot be relied on; you would -miss a man at ten paces.”</p> - -<p>“You say that I could not be sure of my aim!” cried Mr. Trench; “you -shall see.”</p> - -<p>Instantly I heard a frightful noise, in which I distinguished three -reports, a sound of broken glass, and then I felt on my back and head -a succession of tiny pricks, as though all the archers of Lilliput -were shooting at me. Thinking it was a Fenian attack I sprang to the -tomahawk, seized the revolver in the other hand, and, entrenched behind -my arm-chair, I awaited events.</p> - -<p>It was only Mr. Trench who had fired at the candle within a foot of my -head. The first two bullets had simply broken the sconce, the last had -cut the candle in two, and one of the balls had struck a box of steel -pens that had been placed on a what-not; the pens had flown into the -air, and some had fallen into my collar and had produced the pricking.</p> - -<p>After warmly congratulating the master of the house, the guests took -leave of us, we conducting them to the door. There each one grasped his -shillalah with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> left hand and his revolver with the right, and we -saw them passing all the clumps of trees carefully and at a respectful -distance. For ourselves, after watching them for a minute we securely -barricaded the door, and I was then shown to a capital room, where I -slept in an excellent bed.</p> - -<p>But what an extraordinary country!</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<blockquote><p class="center">AN AGENT’S MORNING—HOW A DAIRY IS FOUNDED—MR. O’LEARY’S -CASE—MINISTER AND ARCHDEACON—CATHOLIC ORGANISATION IN -IRELAND—THE DISTRESS OF THE TAX-PAYERS AT KENMARE—AN INDIGNATION -MEETING—THE IRISH CONSTABULARY.</p></blockquote> - -<p><i>July 8.</i>—When I came down stairs this morning, the sitting-rooms -presented a most animated scene. The library floor had disappeared -under a litter of papers, and of half-opened deed boxes. Mr. Trench -stood before his bureau emptying the pigeon-holes, where all his -correspondence had accumulated during his absence. His two secretaries, -seated in a corner, classed all the letters, as soon as he had looked -through them, making notes, in large registers, of the instructions -given them by their chief. Mr. Trench appeared to be discharging the -double duties of “agent” and magistrate.</p> - -<p>To me he even seemed, at times, to be filling a third office; that of -doctor—of amateur doctor, to be sure, but all the more appreciated, -because his advice and his remedies were given gratuitously. From time -to time, the door opened and a bundle of rags appeared, from which -issued a voice of lamentation. This was an old woman, who had come -to ask for a prescription. Special aptitude is required to practise -medicine in this country;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> for it appears that, as a rule, every -village possesses an old woman, who, for a small salary, undertakes -to go in search of the doctor, giving as though for herself an exact -account of the illness from which the real patient, who does not show -himself, is suffering, but to whom she faithfully delivers the medicine -that has been given to her. This system has the advantage of avoiding -journeys and expense on the patient’s account, for the old woman, who -is always the most miserable in the district, receives the medicine and -advice gratis from the county. But these customs render the diagnosis -curiously complicated.</p> - -<p>It is not only invalids who, this morning, flock to Mr. Trench. There -are also a great many farmers. Twenty-five or thirty are waiting -grouped before the door. They are tall, thin fellows, with short -breeches, and high-crowned hats pulled down over their eyes, each -holding a blackthorn shillalah under one arm. Still smoking their -little short pipes, they gesticulate, talk and laugh, with so much -animation that from time to time one of the secretaries interposes -with “Hush, hush!” Each man, when admitted in his turn, begins by -carefully putting out his pipe, and placing it in his waistcoat pocket; -then, taking off his hat, his whole physiognomy suddenly changes its -expression. The man, lively a minute before, assumes a broken-hearted -attitude as he crosses the threshold of the office, and begins in a -dolorous voice the litany, now so well known by every landowner in the -country: “The year is very bad. The cattle will not sell!”</p> - -<p>However, a good many bring something on account, and it is easy to -see that the relations are much less strained here than in many other -parts. These sums<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> on account are not large. Mr. Trench told me -yesterday that usually at this season he receives 400<i>l.</i> per week, -but that this year he does not receive more than 40<i>l.</i> This is not -brilliant certainly; but, however, they must not complain. The priest -at Kenmare, a president of the Land League, is a gentle, conciliating -man; he is on the best terms with Mr. Trench, and through each doing -his best, they have, until now, prevented a complete rupture.</p> - -<p>Knowing that Mr. Trench would be very busy this morning, one of our -guests of the previous evening had offered to fetch me in order to do -the honours of Kenmare. I could not be in better hands. Mr. C—— is -the greatest merchant in the town; he knows the country thoroughly, and -has always managed to keep good friends with everybody. There are not -many Irishmen who can say as much at the present time.</p> - -<p>We remained for some time talking to the farmers at the door. I made -the acquaintance of one of them, who is the director of the dairy -founded on the estate by Mr. Trench—a dairy which has produced such -good results that a second is now being started.</p> - -<p>This creation deserves some notice. The Land League declares that the -landowners and their agents are leeches that are exhausting Ireland, -and that they never attempt to develop her resources. Is this true? It -appears to me that here is one instance proving the contrary. Judge for -yourselves.</p> - -<p>The production of butter is the great industry of the country. We may -almost say it is the only one. Now this industry is worked under the -most deplorable conditions. As a rule, the very poor farmers only -possess four or five milch cows. They are therefore<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> obliged to keep -their cream some time before churning it. Besides, we can imagine -what the dairies must be in a country where the people are lodged as -they are here—usually the milk-pans stand in a corner of the single -room where the whole family sleep together. Under these circumstances -the butter can only be very inferior, and it is so much so, that it -is always sold in London for sevenpence or eightpence per pound less -than our Normandy butters. Some qualities are so bad that they never -sell for more than tenpence the pound, and an Irish member, Major -Saunderson, lately stated in the House of Commons, that the merchants -could only use it to mix with margarine: it was <i>only fit to adulterate -butterine</i>.</p> - -<p>It was this unsatisfactory state of things that Mr. Trench wished -to improve by creating a central factory, where the milk is brought -every day, and where the butter can be made under the most favourable -conditions. Mr. C—— related to me how the business had been arranged. -This is another curious specimen of social customs.</p> - -<p>First of all, it was necessary to obtain the farmers’ co-operation. Mr. -Trench therefore assembled the inhabitants of two or three villages, -in order to explain the proposed scheme to them. Irishmen will walk -ten miles to be present at a meeting, so on the day named, Mr. Trench, -arriving at the spot appointed, found himself in the presence of a -crowd of two or three thousand persons.</p> - -<p>“Boys,” said he, “I intended speaking to you in the schoolroom, but it -is not possible; there are too many of you. Fetch me a table, put it -there near the trunk of this tree; it will do for a platform.” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> - -<p>The table was ready in a second. He climbed upon it and explained his -idea. The crowd, at first indifferent, became visibly antagonistic. -Some agents of the Land League were present, and the great majority of -the men assembled were manifestly hostile. Luckily Mr. Trench caught -sight of a priest who had come with the others.</p> - -<p>“Boys,” said he, at the end of his speech, “you do not seem enchanted -with my proposals. You know that I cannot discuss it separately with -each one of you. But there is Father X——. Let him come on the table -by my side; he will tell you what he thinks of it all.”</p> - -<p>Much surprised, Father X—— mounted the table and commenced to speak. -He raised some objections, but listened attentively to Mr. Trench’s -reasoning, and ended by declaring that, to him, the idea seemed -excellent.</p> - -<p>This was quite enough to produce a complete change. The case was won; -applause broke out on all sides; those nearest to the table already -proposed carrying Mr. Trench in triumph. He resumed his speech. Once -the principle was declared good, it became necessary to decide upon a -place for the first dairy. Then the whole thing was spoilt. These men, -who one minute before would not hear of a dairy at all, now quarrelled -as to which village should possess it. At first they only abused each -other, but as their tempers warmed, the shillalahs began to play. A -formidable tumult commenced, the table was upset, Mr. Trench and the -curate rolled into each other’s arms, and only picked themselves up to -run away as fast as they could in great danger of having their skulls -cracked in the brawl, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> misfortune which happened to two or three -dozen of those present. This meeting is still discussed on the country -side. It was what they term “an illigant foight.”</p> - -<p>At last the dairy was founded and worked to the general satisfaction. -Every one brings his milk, and is paid accordingly. The results are -very satisfactory, in the sense that the butter, being well made, is -sold for two or three pence more than other kinds, though it is still a -long way from any rivalry with the Normandy butter—a decided proof of -the inferiority of the pasturage in this country.</p> - -<p>I said, just now, that the situation is less strained here than in many -other parts. But that does not mean that it is very brilliant. After -talking to the manager of the dairy, I went into the office to say -good-bye to Mr. Trench, whom I should not meet again before luncheon. -He was reading a letter just brought to him. “There,” said he, giving -it to me, “you have just come in time. Look what has taken place during -my absence.”</p> - -<p>I have this letter on my table whilst I write these lines. I wish -I could copy it <i>in extenso</i>. Unfortunately it is too long. I must -therefore confine myself to giving a summary of its contents. It is -another study from the life.</p> - -<p>We must first mention that the barony where we now are is called -Kilgawan, and that on it there is a farm called Ballinaconiga. What -names, ye gods! For a long time this farm was occupied by a certain -O’Leary who yielded his soul to God two years ago, leaving two -sons, Tim and James. The elder, who took on the farm, died shortly -afterwards, owing several quarters in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> arrear. Tim’s widow and -daughters wished to continue his business, but the agent, who had not -found the deceased a very satisfactory tenant, would not consent to the -arrangement, but insisted that the farm should be ceded to the younger -brother, James O’Leary. They agreed to this with fairly good grace, -but changing their minds after some time, they wrote a complaint to -the Land League, and its agents, only too happy to find an opportunity -for exercising authority, assured them that they were in the right, -and informed James O’Leary that he must leave the farm immediately. He -refused and was boycotted in consequence.</p> - -<p>These events happened some months ago. Since then he has found it -impossible to sell anything in the market. His wife and daughters -appeared at church on the Sunday following the notice served by the -League, but were so hustled and knocked about that their clothes were -torn to pieces, and they dared not go again. His little boy went to -school; a week ago, when he entered the room, all the other children -got up and went out. The same thing happened on three successive days, -so the school was closed.</p> - -<p>This state of things has lasted for the greater part of the winter. -With the appearance of spring they invented something new. Every Sunday -afternoon a hundred or a hundred and fifty people assemble before his -door, led by his sister-in-law and his nieces. The whole party go into -a large field of oats, which is in front of the house, and there begin -a game of <i>football</i>. When night arrives they disperse, shouting to -him that they will come back on the following Sunday. Whilst his oats -were still too young to be hurt, the unfortunate O’Leary bore this -annoyance patiently, but when they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> commenced to grow he could endure -it no longer. Last Sunday when he saw the game arranged, he opened his -window and warned the aggressors that he would fire upon them if they -did not go away. They answered by hooting (this is called “boo-ing” in -the country), and then by a volley of stones and mud. He fired both -barrels of his gun, loaded with small shot, into the crowd. A man and -two women fell wounded. The poor fellow was at once arrested and taken -to prison. Yesterday he was released on bail; but he must appear at the -assizes, and, since the jury will probably be formed of Land Leaguers, -he is sure to be condemned.</p> - -<p>This is one of the great difficulties of the situation. In France the -juries often pronounce strange enough verdicts. But how can this system -produce satisfactory results in a country so profoundly disturbed as -this is, where three-fourths of the jurymen sympathise with the Land -League, and the last fourth join them through fear? The Government is -reduced to having its political opponents judged, for purely political -offences, by people who openly profess the same opinions as the -accused. I will not compare the Irish to our communists of 1871, but -if we had tried the <i>pétroleuses</i> by a jury composed of <i>pétroleuses</i>, -we might bet heavily that they would have been acquitted, whilst on -the other hand, if the same jury had been employed to try one of those -rare members of the national guard, who joined the army at Versailles, -he would have been condemned for the smallest peccadillo. As long as -the jury officiates in Ireland, no one will dare to rally round the -Government, and all its enemies are sure of escaping with impunity. The -English Government has shown that it is quite incapable of protecting -property, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> even of securing the personal safety of its partisans. -It would be very extraordinary if it had many of them. Of all the -arguments that I have heard brought forward in favour of Home Rule, -this is the one that strikes me as the most forcible.</p> - -<p>I took advantage of a free morning to visit the parish priest of -Kenmare, or, rather, to give him the title and name by which he -is known, the “Venerable Archdeacon O’S——.” A letter from Mr. -Harrington, the secretary of the Land League, served as an introduction -to him; though I do not say that I owe the cordial welcome I received -to it, for a foreigner, particularly a Frenchman, is always sure of -being well received by an Irish Catholic priest; but Mr. Harrington’s -letter was not detrimental to me, for Father O’S—— is president of -the Land League Committee which acts in this barony. This I had heard -without surprise, but I now learnt with some astonishment that the -vice-president is no other than the Anglican minister, Mr. X——. For -the town of Kenmare possesses an Anglican minister.</p> - -<p>When the State Church was suppressed—was “disestablished,” to use the -common phrase—that is to say, when the tithes that supported it were -abolished, it was decided that all acquired purchased positions should -be respected, and that the holders should continue to be paid out of -a special fund created for the purpose, and called the Ecclesiastical -Fund. The Rev. Mr. X——’s case was one of these, and he will continue -to receive during his life the stipend of 370<i>l.</i>, on the condition of -providing spiritual food for the Protestant population of the barony, -who numbered twenty families at the outside, and who do not even appear -to me animated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> with any very exclusive faith, for four out of their -number send their children to the Catholic school at the Convent.</p> - -<p>Under these circumstances he is not overworked. He leads the life of -a country gentleman. At the moment when I had the honour of being -introduced to him he appeared much interested in training a very fine -pony, which seemed to give him some trouble; for the groom, very well -turned out, who accompanied him, had got down from the dog-cart to go -to the animal’s head. His manners, however, are charming, and since -he has never attempted to draw any of Father O’S——’s sheep into his -own fold, the two pastors live on very good terms. At last, he avows -opinions that are so favourable to the Land League, that it was felt -the members could not do better than nominate him as vice-president, as -I have already said.</p> - -<p>It is interesting to see a Protestant minister adopting this position. -I am assured that he is not the only one, and, that a fair number of -his colleagues have clearly declared themselves partisans of Home Rule. -It may be remembered that the opponents of this institution have always -laid great stress upon the dangers that the Irish Protestants would -be exposed to were they handed over to a national government, without -adequate means of self-protection. It seems as though this danger were -not very real, if it is true that those most deeply interested show so -little fear of it. In any case it is most creditable to the Catholics -that men representing a party of which they have had so much reason to -complain, display such entire confidence in their toleration and sense -of justice, that they aid by their votes a state of affairs in which -the Catholics<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> would evidently have every facility for revenge. 1 had -already at Rathmines heard Mr. Shackleton point out this thesis. I own -that the sight of a Protestant minister, vice-president of the Land -League, has made me think of it much more seriously than I had done -before.</p> - -<p>Father O’S—— did not tell me much about the O’Leary affair, but he -interested me greatly by explaining clearly to me under what conditions -the Catholic organisation has been working, and what has enabled the -Church in Ireland to retain all her social and political influence, -whilst in every other part of Europe she daily finds more difficulty in -discharging her Apostolic functions.</p> - -<p>When we reflect upon these questions of internal organisation, we -notice, first of all, an important difference that exists between -Catholicism and the majority of other sects. Amongst the latter, the -unity is the parish, and often even the tie that binds the parishes -together is so slight that we may almost call it non-existent. In our -Church, on the contrary, the parish is certainly of great importance; -but yet we may say that in many respects it is rather the diocese -which is the unity in the organisation. This is so true that, whilst -the diocese is constituted everywhere in absolutely the same manner, -we find great diversity in the constitution of the parish. On this -question, very distinct currents of ideas have been produced in the -Church, although as a body, she is still so homogeneous. We can first -define them in the mission countries. Some fraternities, the Jesuits, -for instance, seem almost to cling to the diocese as a unity; they -never appear in a hurry to increase the divisions by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> forming parishes. -The groups of Christians, confided to the spiritual direction of -the catechists, are frequently visited by priests, who often remain -in the midst of them, but who do not habitually reside there in a -definite way. These are visitors sent by the bishop, to whom they -return after each tour, in order to give an account of their mission, -and to strengthen themselves in the religious life; but these are -not curates in charge. On the contrary, others, foreign missions for -instance, are inspired by quite different principles. As soon as a -Christian congregation is formed, a priest is attached to it, who -makes his residence with it, and, so to speak, does not move again. -A small village in Konangsi, or in Yun-nan, thus finds itself formed -into a parish as effectively as any small French commune. In the first -system the bishop is kept informed of all that passes by the reports -of the priests, who constantly return to him from all points of the -diocese, whilst he travels very little himself. In the second, on the -contrary, he is constantly travelling in order to visit his priests. -This division, it is scarcely necessary to say, has nothing absolutely -settled. The rule admits of numerous exceptions. But when one lives -for any time amongst missionaries, these tendencies are soon noticed. -I may add that the results of the first of these two systems appear -to be superior to those of the second. These divergent views are also -slightly felt amongst the clergy in the different countries of Europe. -Some appear to prefer concentration of effort, others its dispersion. -In France, there is evidently a tendency to parcel out the parishes -as much as possible. Both bishops and people agree on this point. All -seem to wish that each collection of houses, however small it may be, -should become<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> a parish, if it be not already one, and remain a parish -even when the population has diminished. When there is a scarcity -of priests, they prefer suppressing the office of vicar, to uniting -several parishes in one. I know, in one department, that I could name -three villages, containing one to two hundred inhabitants; they are -all three situated on the same road. Between the first and the third -there are not more than three miles distance; all three are parishes, -and to replace one of the priests who was missing, it was necessary to -withdraw the vicar from a large commune of from eighteen hundred to two -thousand souls.</p> - -<p>Some bishops consider that this system could be modified with -advantage. I know this because one of them told me so. The requirements -of too large a flock can exceed the strength of a pastor; whilst if -the flock be too small his abilities are not fully occupied. On the -other hand, there are frequently serious difficulties in launching a -young priest, who has not yet found his vocation, and who has scarcely -left college, into the midst of a population, often indifferent and -frequently hostile, without his finding near to him a guide and -counsellor to direct him. When we see, in some districts, in what -circumstances these young men are placed, we cannot help feeling deep -pity for them, for their lives are passed in an intellectual isolation, -which must be very hard to bear and which is not found to the same -extent in any other career. The prelate to whom I alluded just now -deplored this state of things and told me that, were he able, he would -suppress several of the least important curacies in each district, -provided that he could give two or three curates to those priests, whom -he retained to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> officiate, for those who would no longer have resident -priests.</p> - -<p>The practical experiment of this system is impossible in France, at -all events for the moment, and for several reasons. First of all -there are pecuniary considerations which are of paramount importance. -The Government not only exacts that the religious service should be -conducted but that the residence should be effective, and if these -conditions are not carried out, the salary is stopped. And then it -is also possible, it is even probable, that, amongst us, this new -organisation would not be accepted by the clergy and people without -some difficulty, for it is quite opposed to all our traditions.</p> - -<p>It is not the same in Ireland. It is precisely this organisation which -seems to have enabled the clergy in my country to acquire and retain -the prodigious influence they now exert over the population. There are -very few parishes. Few have less than three thousand souls; and most -of them have eight or ten thousand. I am speaking, of course, of rural -parishes. The population is widely scattered, much more so than in most -of our provinces. But yet no attempt is made to create new parishes. -This is not for lack of priests. The clergy are recruited with the -greatest facility, the lists are full, and every year priests leave for -the Colonies. But no one seems to think that any increase in the number -of parishes would be desirable.</p> - -<p>In fact, in each of them, the religious offices are discharged by -several young curates, who aid the vicar and who go wherever they are -called, on horseback or in carriages, as a rule, for the distances are -often very great. Very simple buildings, without any architectural -pretensions, have been erected to serve as chapels, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> order that no -one should have too far to go to attend the Sunday services. Besides, -the number of masses celebrated is considerable, for the custom of the -priest celebrating two masses on the same day is very general.</p> - -<p>Upon the whole, the priests perform nearly all the parochial work; -catechising, confessions, visiting the sick, &c. &c. The vicars are -bishops on a small scale, who can concentrate their attention almost -exclusively on preaching, on the superintendence of the work and of the -schools, and on the temporal and spiritual administration of the parish.</p> - -<p>In Ireland, as we know, the clergy do not receive any grant from -Government. To be strictly correct, we must, however, mention, that -for some years the administration has subsidised the College of -Maynooth; but its intervention has been entirely limited to this. We -may, therefore, say, that for all requirements, as well as for the -construction and maintenance of the buildings used for worship, the -Church can only rely upon the offerings of the faithful. She never -appears to have had cause to regret this position. Fifty or sixty years -ago there were, we may almost say, no Catholic churches in Ireland, -the oldest and most important had been confiscated by the Protestants; -the others were in ruins; the religious services were celebrated in -buildings that were, in reality, only barns barely fitted up. Now, -there is scarcely, so to speak, a single parish which does not boast of -a superb church. The one at Kenmare is a Gothic edifice of beautiful -design. That at Castle Connell, which I saw the other day, is still -more important; every one tells me that their dimensions and the beauty -of their construction is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> nothing unusual, that it is nearly the same -everywhere. The Irish who have emigrated have contributed largely to -this result. For several generations they all remain in correspondence -with those branches of the family who have remained in the “ould -country,” as the Canadians call it, and are warmly interested in all -that takes place there; so that when a church is to be reconstructed -in the midst of the cemetery, where their relations are lying, they -display the most admirable generosity. The most remarkable thing -about these offerings—I am now speaking of those provided by the -residents—is not only their importance but their regularity. The -vicars’ and priests’ stipends are supplied by two collections made -every year. As a rule, they scarcely vary at all. The general distress -has not perceptibly diminished them during the last few years, although -they are high. A vicar usually receives 250<i>l.</i> to 400<i>l.</i>; a priest -120<i>l.</i> or 160<i>l.</i>; the fee for a mass is three shillings.</p> - -<p>The moral purity of the Irish people is proverbial. I do not believe -that any nation in the world can be compared to them in this respect. -When inquiries are made on this subject, one hears facts that anywhere -else would appear fabulous, but which, however, are confirmed by the -official documents. There are many baronies containing a population of -ten or twelve thousand souls, where for twenty years there has not been -an illegitimate birth.</p> - -<p>At Dublin, where there is a numerous garrison and a considerable -floating population, the morality is naturally a little lax; but -everywhere else, even in cities containing thirty thousand souls, like -Limerick, we may almost say that prostitution does not exist.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> Numbers -have been quoted to me that, unfortunately, appear so extraordinary -to a Frenchman, that I was anxious to confirm them by asking for -information on the subject from men of the most divergent professions -and opinions. I have consulted priests, Protestant ministers, -landlords, police officials, regimental doctors—all tell me the -same thing. Let us inquire at home and ask ourselves what a French -population would be living in the same state of misery and crowding.</p> - -<p>It is quite useless to point out the moral purity that characterises -the clergy, when they are recruited from such a population. Even their -most inveterate political enemies, those who would have the most -interest in destroying their political influence, have never ventured -to hint the least insinuation on this subject.</p> - -<p>The devotion of the Irish clergy is not less remarkable than its -morality. At a still recent date, the Irish Church suffered from a -real persecution. At the beginning of this century, a great many -priests sacrificed their lives for their faith, exactly like the Roman -martyrs in the early days of Christianity. During the war against -France, and particularly at the time when an invasion was dreaded, the -English Government formed, in every county in the kingdom, regiments -of irregular cavalry known as the yeomanry. The English yeomanry was -a sort of national guard, who afforded much sport for the wit of -the caricaturists of the day, but who have never harmed anybody. In -Ireland things happened very differently. All Catholics were carefully -eliminated from the yeomanry, and this was quite natural, since they -openly avowed their sympathy with France. But in consequence of this -exclusion, the yeomanry corps were only composed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> of small landowners -or small English Protestant farmers, who, exasperated by the real or -supposed danger that they imagined they were in, surrounded by an -excited population, became guilty of abominations which make the hair -stand on end as one reads of them. Lord Cloncurry, in his <i>Personal -Recollections</i>, p. 39, relates the following anecdote, which gives some -idea of what took place at that time.</p> - -<p>“It happened that the barony of Carbery, in the county of Kildare, was -proclaimed under the Insurrection Act, and a camp established in it, -which was occupied by the Fraser Fencibles. One evening the commanding -officer, a Captain Fraser, returning to camp from Maynooth, where he -had dined and drank freely, passed through a district belonging to -my father, which was very peaceable and had not been included in the -proclamation. As Captain Fraser rode through the village of Cloncurry -attended by an orderly dragoon, just as the summer sun was setting, he -saw an old man, named Christopher Dixon, upon the roadside, engaged -in mending his cart. The Captain challenged him for being out after -sunset in contravention of the terms of the proclamation. Dixon replied -that he was not in a proclaimed district, and that he was engaged in -his lawful business, preparing his cart to take a load to Dublin the -following day. The Captain immediately made him prisoner, and placed -him on horseback behind his orderly. The party proceeded about half a -mile in this manner to a turnpike, where the officer got into a quarrel -with the gatekeeper, and some delay took place, of which Dixon took -advantage to beg of the turnpike man to explain that the district in -which he was taken<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> was not proclaimed, and that, therefore, there was -no just ground for his arrest. While the altercation was proceeding, -the poor old man (he was about eighty years of age) slipped off from -the dragoon’s horse and was proceeding homewards when the officer and -soldier followed him, and having despatched him with sixteen dirk and -sabre wounds, of which nine were declared to be mortal, they rode off -to the camp. A coroner’s inquest was held on the body, and a verdict -of wilful murder returned; whereupon Mr. Thomas Ryan, a magistrate -and the immediate landlord of Dixon under my father, proceeded to the -camp, with a warrant for the apprehension of Captain Fraser, who, -however, was protected by his men, and Mr. Ryan was driven off. Mr. -Ryan applied to my father, who sent me with him to Lord Carhampton, -then commander-in-chief in Ireland. We were accompanied by Colonel -(afterwards General Sir George) Cockburn; and Mr. Ryan having produced -the warrant, and Colonel Cockburn having pointed out the provision of -the Mutiny Act bearing upon the case, we formally demanded the body of -Fraser, which his lordship refused to surrender. At the next assizes -Captain Fraser marched into Athy, with a band playing before him, and -gave himself up for trial. The facts were clearly proved; but the -sitting judge, Mr. Toler<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" >[1]</a> (afterwards Lord Norbury), instructed the -jury that ‘Fraser was a gallant officer, who had only made a mistake; -that if Dixon were as good a man as he was represented to be, it was -well for him to be out of this wicked world; but if he were as bad as -many others in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> neighbourhood (looking at me, who sat beside him on -the bench), it was well for the country to be quit of him.’ The Captain -and his orderly were acquitted accordingly.”</p> - -<p>This is how simple peasants were treated. As to the priests, they -were outlawed, and a price was put upon their heads. The yeomanry, -therefore, pursued them with unparalleled energy. One of their most -celebrated chiefs publicly said one day:</p> - -<p>“There are two very amusing hunts—fox-hunting and priest-hunting. But -to me the most amusing is priest-hunting.”</p> - -<p>When they were taken they were put to death with a refined cruelty -that would not have discredited Carrier, the butcher of Nantes; for it -should be noticed that if we Catholics have the right to speak of such -deeds in the terms they deserve, it is a right that French republicans -cannot pretend to, although in their newspapers they willingly declaim -on the oppression of Ireland. Carrier, a good republican, invented -the republican marriages and the <i>noyades de Nantes</i>. Lord X—— (I -prefer not mentioning his name—it is well known in Paris)—filled -his victim’s hat with pitch; it was then pressed down on the head and -afterwards torn off, bringing with it the skin and the hair. The Sioux -scalp more humanely.</p> - -<p>In some parts of Ireland this state of things lasted ten or twelve -years. During all this time the priests lived like wild beasts, -constantly wandering to evade the informers’ researches, living in the -midst of the bogs, in absolute dens, from which they only crept out -at night to carry religious consolation to the dying, only living on -the alms of the miserable people, who had not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> always a piece of bread -for themselves. It required strongly-tempered characters to withstand -such a life for a long time. But they found the necessary support in -their faith, for not one of them failed. They might have emigrated, but -would not, preferring to remain in the midst of their people to the -end, and they found their own steadfastness and devotion responded to -by a steadfastness and devotion not less worthy of admiration. They had -neither bishop nor college. Still the empty places that time produced -in the ranks of the clergy were filled up at once; there was never any -lack of priests. Those young men who intended to enter the sacerdocy -went and completed their studies on the Continent, and then returned -after their ordination to fill the place and continue the labours of -those who had disappeared.</p> - -<p>The English often complain that the Irish Catholics display some -passionate feeling in making their claims. But they should remember -that not more than eighty years have passed since these events took -place. It was proposed at Dublin the other day to introduce me to an -old lady, nearly a centenarian, who saw Lord X——’s yeomen apply the -pitch hat to a priest, her uncle, whom they arrested at the bedside of -her dying mother.</p> - -<p>This heroic age has passed. But for the last thirty or forty years -unfortunate Ireland has passed through many tribulations. There have -been epidemics, there have been famines, and under all circumstances -the clergy have behaved admirably. When one sees an Irish priest -amongst his parishioners, one is first struck with the community of -ideas, impressions, and tastes that exists amongst them. With us, a -young peasant who has become a priest is no longer a peasant. His<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> -nature has been so well modified during the ten or twelve years that -he has passed at college, that he has been made into a new being. -Here a young vicar, a parish priest, son of a small farmer, differs -wonderfully little from his former comrades. He is their superior in -instruction, but he has retained all their tastes, all their ideas, -and, I was about to add, some of their faults. I frequently see French -<i>curés</i>, agriculturists’ sons, who can scarcely distinguish between a -beetroot and a turnip; they have no further interest in agriculture. -Here a great many of the parish priests have a small farm. The other -day I saw a lease signed by one of them. This morning’s paper announces -that at the Cahirmee Fair, which will soon take place, the first prize -at the show will probably be awarded to a filly reared and entered by a -priest, who has already been successful in this way.</p> - -<p>There should evidently be a line drawn; but I own that these -agricultural priests—although, strictly speaking, a little given to -horse-jobbing—please me greatly. I know that few people will be of -my opinion, but I believe that the priest should be as closely allied -to his people as possible. If he is not, if he isolates himself, if -he has no longer any interests or tastes in common with them, he soon -becomes a stranger, and, however holy he may be, he loses all influence -over them. Customs which shock us when we meet with them in a foreign -land, are often useful, because they entail this closer intercourse. I -remember once making the same reflection at Manilla. In that country -there is a mania for cockfighting. One day, some years ago, I was -walking with the <i>abbé</i> of the frigate. We saw a stout native <i>curé</i> -gravely walking down the street before us, carrying a superb cock under -his arm. In a few minutes he met<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> one of his parishioners, who was also -fondly clasping one of these birds. They began to talk to each other. -By their gestures we divined that they were comparing their cocks, and -that each extolled the merits of his own animal. Then the arguments -became warmer; the two owners placed themselves in position, and made -their cocks fight. The <i>abbé</i> was exasperated at this want of dignity. -Who was right? I really cannot tell.</p> - -<p>In our day all the nations of Europe, one after the other, have passed -through a crisis. This crisis is produced by the social transformation -that results from the new economic conditions of life amongst the -people. But there is no instance of the popular classes disturbing -themselves first. In France the revolution, prepared by a portion -of the nobility, was carried out by the <i>tiers état</i>. In Russia the -sovereign power took the initiating step. In Italy and elsewhere it was -the aristocracy first, the middle class next. Nearly everywhere these -innovations render the clergy uneasy, and they stand aside even when -they do not show themselves resolutely hostile to them. Besides, these -changes have caused them to lose the greater part of their political -influence.</p> - -<p>In Ireland the situation is quite exceptional. Neither of the classes -which have led the movement in other countries have been found prepared -to occupy an analogous position in this one. For the last four or five -hundred years there has not been any national aristocracy. The foreign -aristocracy which has replaced it is detested, precisely because it is -not national. Whilst the electors were few in number, and the votes -were openly given, it was able to elect its own members; but since -the ballot has become secret, it so fully realises that its political -influence in the country is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> ended, that in the majority of counties -it does not even nominate candidates. We may say, strange as this -assertion may appear, that in most of our French provinces, in spite of -the hostility shown by the Government, a great landowner has infinitely -more political influence in his district than an Irish landlord -possesses in his own barony.</p> - -<p>In a very poor country, where agriculture has never been remunerative, -and where industry does not exist, no middle class has been able to -form itself. What we call the <i>bourgeoisie</i> has absolutely no existence -in the country districts; in the towns it is represented by a few -merchants, who are absorbed in their business, with little education, -exercising no influence, and not seeking for any. The clergy has -therefore found itself alone in a position to direct the social and -political movements. Yet, in the last few years, a class of politicians -has become formed, composed of Irish-Americans and journalists, who -have frequently displayed independent ideas. One proof of this was -given at the time of the Fenian Conspiracy, to which the clergy opposed -the most resolute hostility from the commencement, obeying the orders -sent from Rome, and the principles of the Catholic Church, which -condemns secret societies. The politicians were unsuccessful in the -struggle, but it was so indecisive that the clergy thought it prudent -to use their victory with extreme moderation, so that the two parties, -having tested their strength, have always since that made reciprocal -concessions, as we have seen from the time that the Land League was -created.</p> - -<p>Upon the whole, the politicians are gaining ground. This is quite -certain, the best proof being in the fact that they have been able -to impose the Land League<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> upon the clergy. But the latter are still -unquestionably masters of the situation. In order to understand the -political state of the country, it is therefore necessary to have, as -far as possible, an exact idea of what the Irish clergy, so different -from our own, are really like; and this is the reason why I have -enlarged so much on this subject, because I wish to collect in this -chapter not only the impressions that I received during my visit to -Kenmare, but also those that I have gathered from the books I have -consulted, and the conversations I have held during my whole sojourn in -Ireland.</p> - -<p>Now, to form a correct idea of a political body, it is necessary -to know not only what its friends think of it, but also what its -adversaries say of it. As I have already said, the legend of the -vagabond, dissipated priest, so dear to French republicans, does not -exist here. The attacks are directed to other points. The Irish clergy -are first reproached with being very authoritative; and secondly, with -an unreasonable love of money.</p> - -<p>It is very difficult for a foreigner to decide how much importance -should be attached to these accusations. However, I should not be -astonished if there is a certain foundation of truth for them. I have -already mentioned that the morality of the young Irish villagers is -above all praise; but I am told that in the rare circumstance of a -scandal occurring, the parish priest never hesitates to drive the -offending sheep out of his flock, to use “striking” arguments, a -line of conduct which, even to the present day, meets with complete -approval from the population, but which, some day or other, may entail -disastrous consequences.</p> - -<p>These customs, which to us appear so strange, no<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> doubt have their -origin in a very primitive society, very homogeneous, and whose manners -were absolutely patriarchal. But it appears to me quite impossible -that they can be maintained much longer, and it would perhaps be wiser -if the Irish clergy were to take the initiative in a reform which -ultimately will be enforced upon them.</p> - -<p>The second accusation—that of too much love for money—also deserves -some notice. But, first of all, it must be defined. Avarice is not a -national defect in Ireland. When the clergy are accused of greed for -money, it must not be understood that they amass it. No one has ever -heard of priests becoming rich. The money which they receive they -dispense liberally in alms.</p> - -<p>Living, as they do, in the midst of a population whose misery is -extreme, one can understand that they do perhaps seek a little -unreasonably for the means of relieving the distress around them. The -accusation is therefore rather in the form than in the substance, -and to appreciate its value we must recollect that the English treat -money matters with a roughness that often shocks us, but which they -consider quite natural. I believe I have already made this remark in -one of the preceding chapters <i>à propos</i> of the naval officers in -this country, who receive veritable fees from the captains in the -merchant service before they will allow them to make comparisons with -their chronometers. We must therefore take into account, and this in -a great measure, the habits which seem inherent in the race. This -admitted, is it true that the Irish priests shear their parishioners a -little too closely? Some anecdotes which are related on this subject, -particularly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> in England, but also a little in Ireland, seem to prove -it. These stories have in all cases the merit of being each more droll -than the other, and they tend to demonstrate that the clergy are -more skilful than the Government in their manner of proceeding. Even -whilst admitting that they pluck the fowls, they not only find means -to prevent their crying out, which in itself is a great art, but even -manage to please them: whilst the Government, which, far from plucking, -rather allows itself to be plucked, only succeeds in exasperating them.</p> - -<p>Twice a year in each parish the priest names a Sunday which is -consecrated to the collection of the dues—that is, to the subscription -which provides his stipend. It seems that nothing can be more amusing -than the scenes which take place on those days. It must be admitted -that the parishioners are generous, and the pastor absolutely -disinterested; but, after all, human nature is weak, as every one -knows, and it never quite loses its ascendency; each parishioner is -divided between the desire to eclipse his neighbours and yet to give as -little as possible. The pastor, on his side, is not sorry to speculate -on these conflicting sentiments, and since both of them are Irish—that -is to say, as witty as possible—the tempest that stirs beneath their -skulls, as M. Victor Hugo would say, produces the oddest incidents -possible.</p> - -<p>I was recommended to read a book, which I found charming, and which -I am assured is very true. It is called <i>Pictures from Ireland</i>. The -author, Mr. Terence McGrath, is not favourable to the Land League. He -has devoted one chapter of his book to a description of one of these -collections of the dues. I borrow this passage from him:— </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span></p> - -<p>“After mass a table is brought and placed in front of the altar; Father -Morrissy stands by its side, and as the chief men of the parish pass -before him, he declares aloud the amount deposited by each on the -plate:—</p> - -<p>“‘Michael Egan—one pound.’</p> - -<p>“‘Martin Fruen—one pound. Martin Fruen, with one hundred acres of -land, one pound. Just twopence an acre!’</p> - -<p>“‘William Slattery, ten acres—ten shillings.’</p> - -<p>“‘Mary Finnegan, a widow with eight children and five acres of -land—six shillings. Verily, I say unto you, that this poor widow has -cast in more than all they that have cast into the plate.’</p> - -<p>“‘John Sweeney’ (Fruen’s bitterest enemy) ‘seventy acres—three pounds. -I am glad to feel that John Sweeney is more liberal than some of those -who would have no hesitation in robbing the Holy Church of her dues, -and leaving their priest in want.’</p> - -<p>“An interruption from Martin Fruen, who returns to the altar steps and -says, ‘I beg your pardon, Father Peter, but I forgot to say that I have -an acre of meadow for your reverence.’</p> - -<p>“‘Thank you, Martin, I thought you must have forgotten’”—and so on.</p> - -<p>I will not swear that the scene is not highly coloured; but it is -very effective, and above all very characteristic of Irish humour. -However, I am more inclined to believe that there may be a foundation -of truth in these reproaches, from a fact that I often remarked in -America. In the far west the only Catholics are Irish or Canadian. The -priests invariably belong to one of these two nationalities. Now, I -often noticed that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> whilst the Canadian priests are always much liked -by their parishioners, by Canadians, as well as by Irish, the Irish -priests, on the contrary, are constantly in difficulties with the -Canadians, who accuse them of being too exacting. But, after all, this -is of little consequence in Ireland, since the persons most interested, -who are certainly the parishioners, declare they are quite satisfied -with their clergy. Besides, the latter have already given so many -proofs of their political talents, that we may be quite certain that -they would know how to modify their requirements, should the necessity -arise, and how to preserve intact the admirable spirit of union, -and the community of aspirations, which bind them so closely to the -population, and which gives them so much strength.</p> - -<p>I happened to meet, to-day, with an opportunity of ascertaining the -confidence which the clergy inspire and how much the Irish people are -used to seeing in the person of their priests the natural interpreters -of their claims.</p> - -<p>The good town of Kenmare, although usually very quiet, is extremely -excited at the present time. But any one would be the same, at least, -for the inhabitants have just learned that they will probably be -obliged this year to pay their taxes twice over, and, since they -already find these taxes very heavy when they only pay them once, their -state of exasperation can readily be imagined. The position is very -curious, but, in order to make it fully understood, I must say a few -words about the political and administrative state of Ireland. This -organisation is infinitely less complicated than our own; but still -that does not insure that it is better. The county and the barony -correspond pretty nearly to our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> department and district, but the -<i>arrondissement</i> does not exist; and we may say that the administrative -division is not carried further than the barony. The baronies include a -certain number of parishes. But the parish has no definite existence. A -large borough like Kenmare has neither a municipal nor a local budget. -The great cities only are provided with a “corporation,” to use the -correct word. In one of our departments the public funds are managed -by three different assemblies: the general council, the councils of -the <i>arrondissement</i>, and, lastly, the municipal councils. In Ireland -these are all replaced by one single assembly, the grand jury, and this -assembly is not even elective. The sheriff chooses the members from a -list of important persons. The law only exacts that each barony should -be represented.</p> - -<p>However this curiously formed assembly possesses very extensive power. -In fact, it fills in the county almost as many posts as Molière assigns -to Maitre Jacques in Harpagon’s house. The grand jury discharges at -the same time all the judicial or administrative functions. First, it -serves the county law court, and decides whether the accused should be -sent to the assizes; it taxes the county and orders the execution of -public works. It also, with the sheriff’s assistance, nominates all the -functionaries, for the only representatives of the state in each county -are the lord-lieutenant, whose duties are purely honorary, the sheriff, -the deputy-lieutenants, and the magistrates, which are divided into two -classes, although they are all nominated by the Lord Chancellor. Some -are simply landowners, invested with a commission as justices of the -peace, who perform their duties<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> gratuitously: the others, <i>stipendiary -magistrates</i>, are paid, and are obliged to reside on the spot.</p> - -<p>Now that the reader is sufficiently enlightened upon the general -principles that rule the administrative organisation of Green Erin, -I will pass on to those particular events which have excited the -inhabitants of the barony of Kilgawan. About eighteen months ago, the -office of tax collector was vacant. In ordinary times there is no lack -of candidates. This official has a right to a commission of 5 per -cent. upon all the money he collects; so that if the taxes amount to -2,000<i>l.</i>, this produces a sum of about 100<i>l.</i>, which annually falls -into the lucky official’s pocket, who, besides, usually adds these -functions to the duties of some small business; but the post is much -less in request lately, for the tax-payers have adopted the lamentable -habit of responding to their summons by gun-shots. However, at last -they found an amateur candidate. He was still a young man, alert, -vigorous, and the best shot in the county, after Mr. Trench <i>bien -entendu</i>. Besides, he could furnish the two securities exacted by the -law. He therefore appeared to unite all the requisite qualifications; -and he had not long to wait for his nomination.</p> - -<p>He commenced his duties about a year ago, and for some time everything -went well. The taxes were admirably paid in, considering the hardness -of times, and every one agreed that in him the barony had found a model -official. The surprise was therefore great when it was discovered some -days ago that he had disappeared, as all cashiers do disappear, <i>i.e.</i> -with their cash boxes. By a singular coincidence his securities, two -tradesmen in the place, had suspended<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> their payments at a few days’ -interval. For a short time after this event, public opinion hesitated. -Some were delighted and praised the patriot, who, sooner than pay into -the oppressor’s Government the funds that would be used to pay its -hired assassins, had simply appropriated them for his own necessities; -but the more politic shook their heads and pointed out that if part of -the funds were destined for the Government, the rest was intended for -local expenses, whilst they asked themselves how all the wheels of the -barony could work during the coming year.</p> - -<p><i>Helas!</i> The patriotic misgivings of these sages were only too well -founded. Mr. Trench has consulted a lawyer. The answer arrived this -morning. It is terrible. The collector is an official of the barony, -but the barony undertakes to collect the Government taxes through him, -at the same time as its own. Thus, on the one hand, since the money had -not been paid into the Government, the barony was still responsible; -and, on the other, a number of necessary expenses had been incurred -and they must meet their engagements. Now the 2,000<i>l.</i> received, -only representing the exact amount of these two deficits, it became -necessary to raise another two sums of 1,000<i>l.</i> each, <i>i.e.</i> the taxes -must be paid again. The argument is as clear as water from the rock, -but it is not pleasant.</p> - -<p>Now the grand jury are to meet to-morrow at Tralee, and this is why -it was resolved to convene an indignation meeting in order that Mr. -Trench, when discharging his duties on the grand jury, might convey to -his colleagues the expression of the but too well justified complaints -of the unfortunate inhabitants of Kenmare. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span></p> - -<p>Mr. C—— and I started a few minutes after breakfast for the Town -Hall, where the meeting was to take place. The hall, which is generally -used for musical evenings and charitable associations, is of good -size. However, when we arrived it was already crowded, but when we -were recognised, those present made room for us so pleasantly that we -ended by reaching the platform, where Mr. Trench and Father O’S—— -were conversing with great animation. The types present offered a most -interesting study. The peasants and farmers were crowded together at -the back of the hall: the benches nearest the platform being filled by -the inhabitants of Kenmare, small merchants and workmen. I noticed one -man near to me, already aged, thin, very brown skin, white, closely -cropped hair, an eager, very expressive face, the head of a Spanish -priest. Mr. C—— told me that he was a poor workman, who had been -some years ago one of the most active and energetic Fenian agents in -the country. He has only lately left prison. Opposite to me a small -crowd is pressed round a short man leaning against the wall. He has -a collar of thick white beard, which frames a pale face, ornamented -with a red nose, to which he applies snuff in a dignified way in those -rare moments when he is not speaking. Under his frock-coat he wears a -long brown waistcoat, and he keeps his left hand in one of its pockets -whilst he gesticulates with the right, talking all the time in a loud -voice. He is a tailor. He speaks at every meeting, is one of the most -active members of the Land League, and enjoys great influence. In the -first ranks of his audience are a dozen worthy citizens with fat, -sheepish faces, who appear to drink in his words, and who undertake to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> -repeat them, with their own comments, to the crowd that presses behind -them endeavouring to catch his words. As I looked at first one and then -the other, the liberated Fenian and the little tailor, I could not help -thinking of the fable of “Bertrand et Raton.” I fancied that the little -tailor would never go to prison, though he would probably be the means -of others going there; sure to eat the chestnuts if others could find -the means of taking them from the fire.</p> - -<p>But the compressibility of the body has a limit. It soon became evident -that the hall would not hold another person. Mr. Trench began to speak.</p> - -<p>“Gentlemen,” said he, “before opening the proceedings, I think it would -be advisable to elect a president.”</p> - -<p>A great silence followed.</p> - -<p>The little tailor longed to speak, for he rubbed his beard in a -feverish way; but suddenly a voice was heard in the crowd—</p> - -<p>“Suppose we nominate the French gentleman over there as president.”</p> - -<p>Naturally, I made a forcible gesture of dissent. The hall echoed with -a peal of laughter. The nervous tension relaxed a little. Mr. Trench -seized upon the opportunity.</p> - -<p>“Gentlemen,” said he, “it appears to me that we could not do better -than invite the Venerable Archdeacon Father O’S—— to be kind enough -to preside over us.”</p> - -<p>Applause broke out from all sides. The arrangement had been so -well provided for, that the Archdeacon was already seated near the -presidential chair. He thanked the assembly in two words, seated -himself comfortably,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> and leant back folding his two hands in the air, -and resting his elbows on the arms of the chair.</p> - -<p>“Well, Mr. Trench,” said he, “we are listening to you!”</p> - -<p>How well Mr. Trench knew with whom he had to deal! With the first words -he managed to win the sympathy of his audience.</p> - -<p>“Gentlemen,” said he, “you know that the grand jury is a body selected, -not elected.”</p> - -<p>“Hear, hear!” cried the little tailor, gesticulating like a devil in -holy water. “It is not elected; it is another of those tyrannical -institutions which crush poor Ireland.” (Prolonged murmurs.)</p> - -<p>“I agree with you, that it is a great misfortune. I believe that it -would be better, in every respect, if the representative of the barony -could be chosen by you. But since that is impossible, I cannot do -better than come and consult you, in order to learn your opinion of the -serious business that now preoccupies us all, whilst promising to act -according to your instructions.”</p> - -<p>He then rehearsed the situation; but when he explained to them that -in all probability the taxpayers would have to replace the 2,000<i>l.</i> -carried off by the collector, the tumult became so formidable that the -Archdeacon rose and began to speak.</p> - -<p>This was, perhaps, scarcely correct for the president, but no one -appeared to mind it. But then no one here seems to trouble himself -particularly about the formalities that are so cherished at Bridoison. -Father O’S—— stood upright, his two hands plunged into the pockets -of his cassock, his hat still upon his head. Our unfortunate French -priests are so accustomed to see their most elementary rights of -citizenship contested,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> that, once outside their church, they always -look embarrassed and awkward. They never speak without a thousand -hesitations, carefully weighing every word. They conceal their thoughts -as much as possible; insinuations are the utmost they ever venture -upon. What a contrast from the attitude of this priest; what authority -he evidently derives from the conviction that he speaks in the name of -the whole people. He does not spare his words.</p> - -<p>“Mr. Trench,” said he, “every one present renders justice to the -feeling which prompted the step that you have just taken. We all -thank you for it. You have described the situation very well. We are -ruled by an assembly, the members of which are chosen by those who -are masters of Ireland, but who are not elected by us. This assembly -settles our taxes as it likes; appoints the agents charged with the -collection of these taxes, and because the agent that it sent to us -without consulting us on the subject, but armed with all its authority, -is a thief, we are now told that our receipts are of no value; that -the unfortunate inhabitants of this poverty-stricken barony will be -forced to pay a second time. It is a disgraceful thing! We Irish are -accustomed to submit to many shameful things, but I declare I never -heard anything quoted that is more shameful than this!”</p> - -<p>But here he was forced to pause. Whilst he was speaking one could hear -the exclamations of the audience gradually increasing. At his last -words the noise suddenly became indescribable. The Fenian near me could -not control himself. He roared.</p> - -<p>The little tailor was so excited that he gesticulated like a madman. At -the back of the hall the farmers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> tapped with their shillalahs on the -floor, from which issued clouds of dust.</p> - -<p>The priest had only to raise his hand in the air; all stopped as by -enchantment. He resumed, with the same calm manner:—</p> - -<p>“Well, Mr. Trench, to-morrow the grand jury, of which you are a -member, is to assemble. You propose to act as our interpreter to your -colleagues. For the second time we thank you for this proposition, and -we know that you will carry out your promise to us. Tell the grand -jury——”</p> - -<p>“Wait!” said Mr. Trench. “I will write down your resolutions.”</p> - -<p>“Certainly! Tell the grand jury that the inhabitants of this barony -protest with all their power against the odious injustice, which they -think of imposing upon us, and which, by every legal means——”</p> - -<p>“Not at all! I protest! I object to the word legal being used! I demand -that we should put, by every means!”——</p> - -<p>It was the little tailor shouting at the top of his voice. And then as -every one looked at him, he proudly drew himself up and majestically -applied a great pinch of snuff to his nose.</p> - -<p>His interruption made a great sensation. The shillalahs recommenced -to move at the back of the hall. The Fenian at my side uttered from -the depths of his chest, a hurrah, which made me jump into the air; -his eyes started from his head. Evidently, at this moment, he would -give his chance of Paradise to be able to shoot an English policeman; -the citizens who surrounded the tailor seemed slightly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> embarrassed; -they evidently considered that things were going too far. Only the -Archdeacon retained his imperturbable air.</p> - -<p>“Let us see, Mr. X——, you apparently advise us to take guns and -blunderbusses and to attack the police?” said he.</p> - -<p>The little tailor only answered by a gesture of the arms and head, -which said clearly: “If everybody were like me, things would not end -like that,” but which at the same time, had the great advantage of -giving no handle for pursuit, if things turned out badly. But Father -O’S—— soon re-established quiet; the resolution that he proposed was -applauded and the meeting soon broke up without further incident.</p> - -<p>I have, perhaps, dwelt too long upon the details of this meeting; but -they appear to me very curious in many respects. In thinking over what -I have seen and heard, I find food for much reflection.</p> - -<p>It is the fashion in France to complain bitterly of centralisation, and -of the great administration which results from it. M. de Tocqueville, -in particular, expatiates everywhere on the beauties of the English -system, which completely differs from our own. Amongst us, the -Government appoints the officials charged with the collection of the -taxes, and lends them to the Communes, or the Department, for the -collection of the local rates. Here, on the contrary, the collectors -are the agents of the local authorities and are lent to the Government -by them. I acknowledge that this system has the advantage of leaving -to the local power the greater part of the authority, which they have -taken from the state; but this satisfaction appears to me a little -platonic. Under<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> the French system if my collector absconds with the -cash box, admitting even, though this is almost impossible, that his -security were insufficient to meet the deficit, this deficit being -divided between thirty-eight millions of taxpayers, I should suffer in -an infinitesimal proportion from this theft; whilst, under the same -circumstances, the poor people of Kenmare are forced to pay twice over, -and they must pay, because in consequence of the decentralisation, they -cannot employ a state official amongst them, and, therefore, as their -agent is completely independent of the collective populace, there is no -reason why the neighbours should suffer through his theft.</p> - -<p>There is a school of men that is always lost in admiration of all -foreign institutions, and that has the greatest contempt for all that -passes at home. Is this a right sentiment? We know our own institutions -through experience, but others only in theory. It therefore happens -that, whilst we see quite easily the defective side of our own, we are -I believe much too inclined to exaggerate the merits of neighbours. The -English inhabit an old house. The arrangements, which were excellent -in former times, are now frequently found very inconvenient. They make -a few reforms, but those are done with the utmost prudence, because -when workmen are placed in an old building there is always danger of -the walls giving way. They know that if they decide to pull down the -old house and build a new one they must spend a good deal, and also -sleep outside for some time. In order to avoid this inconvenience, they -prefer remaining where they are, as long as it will hold together. I -think their argument is just, but they are not as well lodged as they -might be. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span></p> - -<p>We are not in the same position; our old house has fallen, we have had -all the annoyance and expense of a removal: we had to sleep outside -for a long time. Now, the great work of the new one is finished, the -roof is in its place; the ensign is still missing and also many small -interior fittings, but still, such as it is, we can certainly say, that -the service is better done there than in most other establishments.</p> - -<p>But to continue the comparison, it is but too evident that great -reforms are needed in this country. For instance, this institution of -a grand jury, almost omnipotent and absolutely irresponsible, is made -to exasperate the people. It is not even a feudal institution, for the -feudal law provided that “none could be judged save by his peers.” It -is the application, pure and simple, of the rights of conquest. If the -Land Leaguers confined themselves to demanding the abolition of such -abuses, they would be so manifestly right that every reasonable man -would sympathise with them, and the English would be forced to yield -at once. Instead of doing this, they claim a number of things that -cannot possibly be granted, which would manifestly be either useless -or injurious to them if they obtained them, and no one really can -tell whether they would reform existing abuses or whether they would -not rather content themselves with using them against their political -adversaries. Thus the other day the Lord Mayor of Dublin told me that -Ireland suffered from too much centralisation. If such cases as that -which formed the subject of the meeting at which I was present are of -frequent occurrence, it seems to me that it is rather an excess of -decentralisation from which she is suffering. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span></p> - -<p>And besides, was it necessary to complicate by a political crisis, the -agricultural and economic crisis, which is already so hard to bear in -this country? And this political crisis, a little goodwill on all sides -would suffice to check, at least in a great measure. I only require the -facts that I see here as a proof of what I say. In every country in the -world, where such an accident happened, the population would be much -excited by it. Every one would feel it. Such an incident is a God-send -for an opposition politician. It would not require many like the little -tailor, or the old Fenian, to put a light to the powder. Luckily, the -two conflicting parties are each headed by thoroughly honest men, -benevolent and moderate. Mr. Trench came and said: “I agree with you, -the grand jury is not what it ought to be; it is true that you are -not represented in it. I cannot change the existing laws, but since I -form part of the grand jury, allow me to act as though I were really -your representative.” Father O’S—— took him at his word, and that -sufficed to make the meeting pass off quietly. I therefore cannot help -thinking that if really willing men were more common, peace would be -less disturbed, and this is why I believe that the clergy have rendered -a great service to Ireland by placing themselves at the head of the -Land League. A few of its members are certainly hot-headed men, who do -not use their influence in the right way; but a great many others act -like Father O’S——; and, whilst tolerating what they cannot help, they -act as mediators, and very efficacious mediators, in a movement which, -if they were not there, would in each village be led by men like the -little tailor.</p> - -<p>This evening, Mr. Trench invited me to dine with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> inspector of -police for the district of Kilgawan. This young man, who discharges -all the duties of a lieutenant of <i>gendarmerie</i> amongst us, has about -thirty constables (Irish constabulary force) under his orders. This -corps seems copied from the French <i>gendarmerie</i>. They are superb -men, admirably disciplined, who render the greatest services. They -are, however, abominated by the populace, although they are all Irish -officers and men. But, at the same time, this does not prevent there -being ten candidates for one vacancy. One of the reasons for this -is that the pay is exceedingly high. This young man, who is dining -with us, gets about 240<i>l.</i> per annum; more than a major receives in -France. He is twenty-six years old. A simple constable has from 80<i>l.</i> -to 100<i>l.</i>; there are 12,000 of them; 7,000 Catholics, and 5,000 -Protestants. The maintenance of this corps is a heavy item in Irish -finance.</p> - -<p>A Government should always give its servants a rate of pay which is in -accordance with the scale of salaries in the country. If it fixes too -low a sum, it can only obtain very inferior men; if it pays them too -much, there are ten candidates for one vacancy, and, since it can only -give one appointment, it creates nine irreconcilable enemies in the -persons of those it was forced to disappoint. The English Government, -however, like every other, is influenced by this principle; only its -pay is regulated by the scale of English salaries, and these salaries -are very high. It can scarcely have a special scale for Ireland. An -English constable who gains four or five shillings a day is not too -well paid, because his brother or his father, who are workmen, earn -about the same amount. But<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> because an English constable receives -five shillings, it is necessary to give five shillings to an Irish -constable, although he is living in a country where the workmen never -earn more than one shilling per day. Now, since it is precisely upon -these Irish workpeople, who earn so little, that the taxes producing -the soldiers’ high pay weigh so heavily, they feel exasperated. The -same events take place under all administrations. This is another of -the Land League grievances, and one of its best arguments in favour of -Home Rule, for they point out that if Ireland were completely separated -from England, the pay could be reduced in proportion to the general -distress, and this can never be done whilst the union lasts.</p> - -<p>The inspector of police spoke to me about the state of the country, -with which he is naturally better acquainted than any one else. The -neighbourhood of Kenmare is relatively quiet. However, he knows that -the tribunal of the Land League works regularly, and meets every -Sunday: everybody obeys its decisions.</p> - -<p>To-day, a constable seized eight or ten summonses issued in the name of -this tribunal. This is an exact reproduction of one of them:—</p> - -<blockquote><p class="right">“KILGAWAN BRANCH, I. N. LEAGUE.<br /> -<i>June 24, 1886.</i><span class="s3"> </span></p> - -<p class="center">MR. THOMAS MURRAY, BALLINACARRIGA.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,</p> - -<p>Your presence is requested in the league 2 p.m. On the 27th inst. -On behalf of the committee,</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">John Godfrey</span>, <i>Sec.</i>”</p></blockquote> - -<p>He believes that he shall be forced to give James O’Leary two men as -a protection, who will not leave him day or night. There are already -several persons<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> in the county in the same position. And it is only -because the expense is so very heavy, nearly 200<i>l.</i> a year, that there -are not more. However, the Government defrays this expense by levying a -special tax from all the inhabitants of the district.</p> - -<p>But, I repeat that the situation of this part of the county is -exceptionally good. There is another barony in the neighbourhood where -the situation is far worse. This property belongs to the Honourable -Roland Wynne. Already two of his agents have been killed, and he is now -vainly endeavouring to find a third. The last tax-collector having had -a ball pass through his leg whilst discharging his duty, hastened to -send in his resignation, and it is impossible to replace him.</p> - -<p>This estate has not paid one penny either to the landlord or to the -state for the last three years. In fact, then, the farmers have become -the owners.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2">[2]</a> In all that concerns them, the programme of the Land -League has been fully carried out, and it has been realised in the most -economical fashion, since, to obtain this result, the people have only -had to spend the sum necessary for the acquisition of a gun and three -charges of powder. I may add that the inhabitants of this lucky barony -can only lose by a change of government, since, however economical the -new one may be, it will always be necessary to pay some taxes, whilst -now they do not pay anything to anybody. It is therefore a golden age -which reigns for the time in this corner of Ireland. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> ask whether the -fate of this population seems capable of amelioration?</p> - -<p>I am answered that, the land being very bad, the distress is terrible; -the people are literally dying of hunger, and that emigration is the -sole resource of the population! But then, in that case, the crisis has -not arisen from the land laws, and they cannot cure it by making the -peasants landowners. I had always doubted it, but I am well pleased to -have my opinion so convincingly proved.</p> - -<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a> Mr. Toler was at the time (as well as my memory serves me) -Solicitor-General, but sitting as Judge of Assize.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">[2]</a> Since my visit to Ireland, this estate has been seized by -creditors, who have driven out all the farmers. The most lamentable -scenes took place, and have been much discussed in the newspapers.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> - -<blockquote><p class="center">DEPARTURE FROM KENMARE—A BAILIFF UNDER PROTECTION—HOW -PLAIN DAUGHTERS CAN BE ADVANTAGEOUSLY DISPOSED OF—BLARNEY -CASTLE—TRALEE—BARON DOWSE’S SPEECH—AN IRISH MARKET—THE GRAND -JURY AND ITS PRESIDENT—MEDITATIONS.</p></blockquote> - -<p><i>July 9th.</i>—To-day the grand jury opens at Tralee, the capital of -county Kerry. In his double office of magistrate and grand juryman, my -host, Mr. Trench, is obliged to attend this ceremony. Besides, this -year his presence is doubly necessary, because he must plead the cause -of the taxpayers in the barony,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" >[3]</a> according to the promise given -yesterday. He kindly suggested that I should accompany him, an offer -which I hastened to accept, for I am very curious to see how this -strange institution works.</p> - -<p>In consequence of these arrangements, the faithful Dick brought his -carriage to the door about eight o’clock this morning, just as we -finished breakfast.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> Experienced travellers assert that if one would -have a correct idea of a country, one should see it at the season -which most characterises it. Thus one should see Russia in the month -of January, when it is covered with snow, and Naples in the month -of August. A cold country is only curious when it is cold; a moujik -sweating violently being as little interesting as a <i>lazzarone</i> -shivering in a corner by the fire.</p> - -<p>This being so, one must arrange to see Ireland under heavy rain, for it -is only necessary to consult the meteorological charts to be convinced -that more rain falls in Green Erin than in any other country in Europe. -But this is not my fate, at least not at present. It appears that -I have unusual luck. Since I have been in Kerry, particularly, the -weather has been splendid. This morning a brilliant sunshine illumined -the lawns and old oaks of Lansdowne Lodge, when I turned round to -give them a last glance, as the carriage passed through the gate. -During breakfast, Mr. Trench and I had commenced a serious theological -discussion. It had no visible result, as far as our conversion is -concerned, for we still remain, he a Plymouth brother, and I an -Apostolic Roman Catholic; but it continued with increasing animation -during the whole journey from Kenmare to Killarney, and by this time we -had reached such transcendental heights, we had “talked and retalked” -with so much animation, that, absorbed in seeking my arguments, I had -allowed myself to forget my duties as a conscientious tourist, and had -scarcely paid any attention to the country we were passing through. I -am, however, almost sure that the road we followed was the same as that -we had arrived by the day before yesterday. I can therefore<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> affirm, -with a quiet conscience, that Derrygariff is always in the same place, -that we have again followed the valley of Coom-a-Dhuv; that we skirted -the lakes of Cummeen and Thommeen and I distinctly recollect that some -one called me to admire the cascade of Derrycunihy, explaining to -me that the mountain from which it issues is no other than majestic -Garranthuohill! (I am anxious to give the exact facts, for <i>à propos</i> -of my first articles an influential critic reproached me in his paper -the other day because I did not give sufficient details.)</p> - -<p>We found great animation reigning at the Killarney railway station -when we arrived there. Mr. Trench met there, first of all, a number -of his colleagues, who, like himself, were going to Tralee, and who, -as a rule, profited by the opportunity to take their families for a -little excursion. Whilst he was speaking to them I went to a corner of -the station from whence nasal exclamations had reached me, riveting -my attention. They proceeded from a group of American tourists of -both sexes, who were contemplating with much interest a fat Irishman, -dressed like a farmer, who passed to and fro, attended on each side -by an enormous constable, as stiff as though he were made of wood, -his little black jacket fitting his figure without a wrinkle, his -policeman’s cap inclined 45° over one ear, his stock mounting to his -teeth, a small staff in his hand, and a revolver at his side.</p> - -<p>This unusual spectacle interested me greatly. Could this stout man be a -victim of perfidious Albion, who was about to expiate his patriotism by -rotting on the mouldering straw of a dungeon? Is he a common criminal? -These two hypotheses are manifestly <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>inadmissible. The stout man has -not the air of a prisoner; far from wearing handcuffs, he grasps an -enormous shillalah, and his two guards, instead of leading him, appear -to regulate their movements by his: in any case they allow him to -communicate freely with the Americans, who all, one after the other, -advance and ask him to inscribe his name in their albums. Trench is -too far off to explain this enigma. Luckily, I noticed close to me a -native, well dressed and benevolent-looking, whom the stout man had -greeted as he passed. I spoke to him, for he looked very polite—but -that all Irishmen are, at least as long as they remain in Ireland. -From the time they arrive in America, they too often become as rough -as barley bread. “Certainly, sir,” replied the obliging native, “I can -tell you. I know that man very well. His name is Denis McGrath, and he -lives near to me. He is bailiff to one of my neighbours.”</p> - -<p>“Well, sir, what has happened to him? Why is he followed by those two -constables? Is he a prisoner?”</p> - -<p>“Oh, no! Quite the contrary. For the last two years he has been -protected by the police.”</p> - -<p>“But why do the police protect him?”</p> - -<p>“Ah! That is because he was mixed up in an eviction case that ended -badly. The Land Leaguers in our barony have condemned him to death. -He has been shot at already three times during the night through his -window. He was not hurt; the balls went into his mattress. But since he -has every reason to believe they intend trying again, the police have -given him two men to protect him. The parish defrays the expenses.”</p> - -<p>“Sir, you interest me greatly! Do these constables live with him?” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Certainly. Since they never leave him, day or night!”</p> - -<p>“That must be a great inconvenience in a small household.”</p> - -<p>“Ah! you see the administration does all in its power to render the -existence of those whom it protects as agreeable as possible. Before -choosing the men for this office, the officials first make thorough -inquiries respecting the people with whom they have to deal; and they -try to send them constables whose similarity of tastes can make their -society pleasant to them. Thus, for instance, they are careful not to -send a Protestant constable to a Catholic household. McGrath certainly -has nothing to complain of. He has five daughters, all freckled, and -very plain. He would assuredly have had a great deal of trouble in -marrying them. They sent him two bachelor constables, both very fine -men. You see them there. Naturally, living amongst the five daughters, -they inevitably commenced a courtship. They have married two of them!”</p> - -<p>“Then are they now all living together?”</p> - -<p>“Yes; but things no longer go smoothly.”</p> - -<p>“Ah, the deuce! What has happened then?”</p> - -<p>“Listen. The three younger daughters are very anxious to marry too. -That’s very natural. They therefore try to persuade their father to -complain of their brothers-in-law, in order that they may be replaced -by two other unmarried constables. Only the two married sisters will -not hear of such a proceeding, because, they say, that it would cause -bad marks to be placed against their husbands, which would hinder their -promotion; and, besides, they might also be sent to protect other -families where they could not follow them. There are, therefore, such -terrible scenes in the house that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> McGrath passes his life outside. -He has become a real support to the public-house: only, since his -sons-in-law follow him everywhere, their wives are furious because -they fear their husbands will contract bad habits. They blame their -father, who finds himself between the anvil and the hammer. Ah! he -hasn’t a pleasant life of it. So now he is going to Tralee I shall not -be surprised to find that he has decided to yield to the three younger -ones. He is probably going to ask for two new constables!”</p> - -<p>Not far from here, at Blarney, near Cork, there stands a strong old -castle, dating from the fifteenth century. It was built by Cormac -M’Carthy, a celebrated personage in the history of the county. Very -important ruins still remain of it. Above the principal dungeon is -seen a carved stone, to which a very ancient legend attributes magic -power.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" >[4]</a> Every one who kisses it devoutly immediately receives the -gift of a special eloquence known by the name of <i>blarney</i>, which -ensures for them the most varied successes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> Only this advantage is -counterbalanced by one defect—they all become horribly untruthful. -Unfortunately this pilgrimage is extremely run after. During the summer -the railway companies organise special trains that bring excursionists -from every corner of Ireland.</p> - -<p>The amiable native who so kindly enlightened me upon the incidents of -the domestic drama now being enacted by the McGrath family, can he be -one of those called in this country Blarney pilgrims—the same thing -that at home we call vulgar <i>fumiste</i>? Even whilst I effusively thank -him for his extreme kindness, I ask myself this question. Another idea -has also crossed my mind. I distinctly saw in the station the manager -of the Killarney hotel, who only yesterday I advised to organise some -evictions as an attraction for tourists. He seemed to appreciate the -notion; and now he is explaining McGrath’s case to the Americans. This -interesting bailiff, his five daughters and two sons-in-law, can they -be only supernumeraries? After all, this is quite possible.</p> - -<p>But these reflections were rudely interrupted. The train was -starting, and I was forced to run in order to catch Mr. Trench in his -compartment. He introduced me to one of his colleagues, who, with his -son and daughter, were, like ourselves, going to Tralee. <i>À propos</i>, -some people have a fancy for knowing the exact pronunciation of foreign -words; here are a few directions for their use:—</p> - -<p>If you wish to pronounce Tralee in the Irish fashion, you must first -commence by uttering a hoarse sound drawn from the bottom of your -throat, the lower the better. Gradually swell this sound, imitating a -dog growling before he bites. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> this way you will modulate something -that can be written thus: Trrreull! And then, when your breath is -nearly gone, suddenly jerk out the last syllable <i>lee</i>, which you must -of course pronounce <i>ly</i>. It is fairly difficult, but if you practise -it for a little while, scrupulously following my instructions, I am -convinced that you will attain such a pure pronunciation that you -will astonish every inhabitant of Kerry who hears you. But, I repeat, -I only mention this for those who think they must pronounce foreign -words in foreign fashion. Personally, I am not of their opinion, and -an illustrious Academician who honours me with his friendship, assures -me that I am right; and this is the reason why, in Paris, I always say -“<i>Rue Va-sin-je-ton</i>,” and not “<i>Rue Washington</i>.”</p> - -<p>Having said this in the interest of the ultra-refined in linguistic -details, I resume my narrative.</p> - -<p>The grand juryman with whom we are travelling is a descendant of -O’Connell the great agitator, as he is called. I rather suspect him of -privately thinking that his illustrious ancestor succeeded in agitating -Ireland only too well; for, from what he and his son tell me of the -state of the country, it is certain that no one has any reason to -complain of excessive tranquillity. We happened to pass through their -properties. The father was installed by one door, the son by the other. -Every moment these gentlemen very pleasantly directed my attention -towards the ruins of some house that had been destroyed by dynamite, -the remnants of a haystack that had been burnt, a meadow where all the -cows’ tails had been cut off, or a tree beneath which a bailiff had -been found with a ball through his head. As landlords, and boycotted -landlords, they assuredly cannot approve<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> of these acts; but, as -Irishmen, they enumerate all these facts with a certain complacency. -National pride is always worthy of our respect. I remember an American -who described to me the collision between two trains; he spoke of -carriages precipitated into the Mississippi, of two or three hundred -persons drowned, and then he ended by saying, with a patronising air: -“Nothing equal in Europe, I guess, stranger!”</p> - -<p>We reached Tralee about one o’clock. I was first taken to a club, where -we found most of the grand jurymen preparing for the discharge of their -duties by taking an excellent luncheon. Even whilst following their -example I was introduced to five or six of these gentlemen, who, like -Mr. Trench, are “agents.”</p> - -<p>The information which they gave me confirms all that I have already -heard about the state of this county. The rents continue to diminish. -One of them quotes figures to me. The income of the property which he -superintends amounted to more than 8,000<i>l.</i>; its remittances equalled -4,000<i>l.</i>, taking good and bad years together. This year it will not -receive more than 600<i>l.</i> Besides this, the people recently placed a -charge of dynamite under his windows. The explosion was so violent -that the whole front fell down. Sixteen persons were in the house; no -one was hurt, but it was a miraculous escape. I asked him if, on his -soul and conscience, he really believed that the heads of the Land -League are responsible for deeds of this kind. He replied that he was -absolutely sure of it, and that if the country were not terrorised he -could arrest the perpetrators; if he has not done so, it is simply -because he knows that no witness dare appear against them. He is giving -up the struggle. He intends retiring from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> business at the end of the -year, and his son intends using the family capital in starting a ranche -in Colorado.</p> - -<p>The Land Leaguers are very indignant when any one predicts that their -success will be the signal for the general emigration of capital. Yet -here is an instance which seems to prove that this prediction has some -foundation. And frankly, is it possible to blame those who adopt this -course? I own that I am only astonished at one thing, and that is that -it does not happen more often. Leading such an existence as this is not -life.</p> - -<p>In order to realise the point which affairs have reached in Kerry, it -is enough to read the speech pronounced by Baron Dowse, President of -the Assizes, at the opening of the session.</p> - -<p>“Scarcely four months,” said he, “have elapsed since the last session, -and now I am again summoned to preside over you. After a careful -examination of the situation in County Kerry, in respect to the -criminal law, I am forced to tell you that it is worse than ever. In -four months 119 criminal cases have been inscribed on the list, and -their details are very significant:—</p> - -<table summary="criminal cases"> - <tr> - <td class="left">Murders</td> - <td>2</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Despatch of letters threatening murder</td> - <td>19</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Attempts at murder with fire-arms</td> - <td>9</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Manslaughter</td> - <td>1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Outrage</td> - <td>1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Blows and wounds</td> - <td>11</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Assaults upon agents</td> - <td>1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Armed attack upon houses</td> - <td>1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>Robbery</td> - <td>20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Arson</td> - <td>19</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Killing or mutilating domestic animals </td> - <td>12</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Thefts of arms or extortion of money</td> - <td>26</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Shots fired into inhabited houses</td> - <td>10</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="s3"> </span>Etc., etc.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>“You see, gentlemen, that nearly all these crimes are of the same -character; they are agrarian. In counting up all the events coming -under the same category that have taken place in this county during one -year, we find a total of more than 500. Whatever political or religious -opinions one may hold, it is impossible not to consider the situation -lamentable. In former times the moral state of this county was very -different. Criminal cases were rather less here than elsewhere. Now -there is not a single county in Ireland that can be compared to it. -County Clare has certainly a very bad reputation, but yet it has not -fallen so low as this.”</p> - -<p>When I read these edifying figures, I sincerely congratulated myself -upon not being a landowner in County Kerry, and I thought that if I -had the ill luck to possess any land there I should have real pleasure -in selling it, as soon as possible, for any price it would fetch, and -in getting away. I can quite sympathise with landowners who never go -near their estates, and I cannot see how the Nationalists can reproach -them. Still, possibly whilst creating this state of affairs, the -latter may have some mental reservations. No doubt they think that by -rendering life intolerable to the landowners, they will depreciate the -price of land so much that they will be able to share it gratuitously<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> -amongst themselves. Perhaps they will attain this result. But as I -have already said several times, what advantage will they find in -that? At the commencement of the Revolution the French peasants made -the same calculation; they pillaged the castles, massacred the owners -when they could, and divided the estates of those who had succeeded in -emigrating, to punish them for getting away. The operation has been -fairly profitable for many of them. That is because at that time, -and particularly a little later, the land, through the difficulty of -transport, had a real value. But now the situation is quite altered; -in every country in the world the land tends to have only the value -which the capital employed in its cultivation may give it. What is the -use of pasturage, if, on one hand, there are no more farmers, and if, -on the other, one has not money enough to buy the cattle necessary to -place on it before a profit can be obtained? Therefore, in our days, -the emigration of capital from a country is an irremediable disaster. -Now they can scarcely have any idea of making the landowners emigrate, -yet of retaining their capital. I humbly venture to suggest a few of -these reflections to my friends in the Land League. I think they would -be wise to ponder over them in their own interest, for if they realise -their programme, it may happen that as soon as the population see the -results of the campaign they have led them through, a reaction may be -produced, and they would be its first victims.</p> - -<p>In another part of his speech Baron Dowse again laid stress upon the -fact that a few years ago County Kerry, now so disturbed, was quoted -throughout Ireland as the model county. It appears that this is -absolutely true. In this little Arcadia even politics<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> never caused -any divisions. The inhabitants had discovered an excellent method of -avoiding all those quarrels which they usually engender. Still there -were two parties; but since the county returned precisely two members, -it had been agreed, from time immemorial, that each side should have -its own representative. It was always a member of the family of Herbert -of Muckross, who stood for the Liberals, whilst the eldest son of the -Kenmares undertook in Parliament the defence of the Conservatives. When -one died, his son replaced him, and everything went smoothly in this -most quiet county.</p> - -<p>In 1871 an unforeseen circumstance put an end to this peaceful -arrangement. The old Lord Kenmare died in that year. His son, Lord -Castlerosse, heir to the peerage, sent in his resignation as member. -Now it happened that his son was not old enough to succeed him. It -was arranged that until he attained his majority the seat should be -occupied by his cousin, Mr. Dease. Conservatives and Liberals assisted -to secure this combination. But the opportunity seemed favourable to -the Nationalists, who, precisely at the same time were commencing to -draw public attention towards themselves; they decided that the party -should open a struggle in Kerry. Naturally, the excitement was very -great; the partisans of each candidate were soon in position. A very -curious event took place, which makes the want of discipline, the weak -point in the religious organisation of Ireland, very conspicuous. Mr. -Dease was a great landowner in the county, a resident, highly respected -and Catholic. It appeared therefore as though his candidature would -be approved by all the clergy, and this seemed still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> more probable -because Mgr. Moriarty, the bishop, had accepted the presidency of his -committee.</p> - -<p>It all went for nothing. The diocesan priests in a body openly and -passionately exerted all their influence in favour of the opposing -candidate, Mr. Blennerhassett, quite a young man and a Protestant! -And this was only because he was the candidate for the popular party. -The reason was that, in Ireland, a priest dare not get embroiled with -his parishioners. This situation is often his greatest strength, but -it sometimes involves him in very delicate relations with others. I -believe it was M. Ledru-Rollin who one day made this striking remark: -“I am forced to obey them, since I am their chief!” More than one Irish -priest could say the same thing.</p> - -<p>It was a grand electoral campaign. Political veterans still speak -feelingly about it. At that time the votes were given openly. The -landowners brought their tenants to the poll under safe escort and -never lost sight of them until their votes had been registered. -Besides, each party had recourse to heroic measures. The Isle of -Valencia, which is entirely owned by the Knight of Kerry, had no -polling office. Its electors, who were fairly numerous, were believed -to be thoroughly devoted to their landlord, who had energetically -declared himself in favour of Mr. Dease. He chartered a steamboat to -take them over to the mainland to Cahirciveen, where they ought to -vote. The Nationalists managed during the night to stove in the bottom -of the steamer and to hire every fishing boat in the neighbourhood for -the day, so that not one of the Knight of Kerry’s men was able to vote. -Elsewhere, when they came in contact with timid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> folks, who, although -partisans of Blennerhassett, dared not run full tilt at their landlord, -the Nationalists made them vote not for Mr. Dease but for Lord Kenmare, -so that their votes were lost; afterwards they assumed a dismayed -expression and excused themselves to their furious landlord by saying -that they thought they were voting for the candidate he patronised.</p> - -<p>Is it necessary to add that Blennerhassett was elected by a large -majority? Alas! the world becomes sadder. Every time one meets with -a really lively institution, one feels sure that it will speedily -be abolished! Open voting has submitted to the universal law. The -Blennerhassett election was the last of its kind that took place in -Kerry. Some months afterwards, in 1872, the new electoral law was -passed. Since that time the Irish elections are, like all others in the -world, horribly dull.</p> - -<p>It is needless to add that now the county only returns Nationalists -to Parliament. Tralee, the capital, which is a small town containing -10,000 inhabitants, claims to be a sea-port because they have made a -canal two miles long between it and the coast, and this enables a few -coasting boats to anchor in a miniature dock situated near the town. -They probably come in search of pigs, for I have met almost as many -of them in the streets as at Limerick. But I do not think they bring -women’s shoes, for I do not remember seeing a single one walking except -with bare feet.</p> - -<p>But the streets are full of animation when we leave the club. The -market has just ended. Buyers and sellers are preparing to return -home. Before the smaller inns men commence harnessing grey donkeys to -little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> two-wheeled carts which stand in rows two deep, the shafts -in the air. Five or six women squeeze into each of them, their backs -leaning against the sides of the cart, the chin between the knees, or -even lying flat one against the other lengthways, their muddy feet and -bare legs hanging outside. The husband or brother seats himself at the -side on one of the shafts, and when they have wished the neighbours -good-bye, they slowly start on their way home to the small thatched -house standing on the edge of some bog, which they will only leave once -more during a whole week, when they go to mass on Sunday next.</p> - -<p>In front of the houses on the market-place there is an interminable -line of old women; each has in front of her on the edge of the pavement -a small heap of nuts, potatoes, or turnips. The purchasers do not seem -numerous, but the poor old women do not appear uneasy about it. They -evidently return there every market day, less to sell anything than -to see the people, to meet each other, to gossip together about the -good old times, when potatoes were more plentiful, the sun hotter, the -girls prettier, and the “boys” more gallant than they are now! There -they are, seated in the mud, their bare legs twisted on one side to -leave room for passers by, their heads wrapped in old shawls, a few -grey locks peeping through the holes in them, the majority smoking -short black pipes. Myriads of children, charming, but very dirty, roll -in the gutter around them. Poor old women! In their dull, sad lives -these market days stand out like nails placed at intervals in a wall, -on which their recollections are hung. I remember at Tamatave seeing -the old Malagachy women arrive from all sides, almost naked, their ribs -projecting under their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> sickly skin, emaciated, hideous, yet having -walked twelve or fifteen miles to sell two eggs and a cabbage palm—in -reality to gossip with their neighbours. Human nature is the same -everywhere.</p> - -<p>But I have not time now to continue my observations. As soon as the -grand jury had finished luncheon they started to go to the town-hall, -and since these gentlemen had kindly invited me to be present at their -work, I hastened to accompany them.</p> - -<p>It is evident that the principles on which the composition of the grand -jury rest are no longer tenable. I have already said so, and I repeat -it. They are contrary to every idea of right, since the taxes are voted -by these men, who are, but very indirectly, the representatives of -those who ought to pay them, and who at all events are not elected by -them. The best medicine in the world usually works only harm if the -patient takes it against his will. A peasant may be obliged to pass -over the bridge in front of his house every day, but if he is asked -for a shilling to keep it in repair, and if the man who imposes the -shilling is the great landowner next to him, he will always remain -convinced that it is only the great landowner who will profit by the -shilling he has made him pay. Formerly, when the different classes -agreed, it was not the same thing; but now that war is declared, it -is manifestly impossible that an Irish peasant will be anything but -exasperated by the thought that it is only his political enemies who -have any voice on the subject, and who administer the affairs of -his barony or county. This institution of the grand jury must then -disappear: it is fatal. So much for the question of principle. But, -this once admitted, we may ask ourselves whether, practically, matters -would be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> improved if the people had as magistrates and grand jury men -such men as the little tailor of Kenmare. It seems very doubtful to me.</p> - -<p>I made these reflections this morning whilst watching the assembly of -the grand jury. After its members had taken the oath, they honoured me -by admitting me into the council hall, and giving me a chair behind -the president’s, Colonel Crosbie’s, seat. He was placed in the middle -of a table, shaped like a horseshoe, around which all his colleagues -were seated. When I entered they were occupied with the public works. -A secretary standing behind the president read aloud the contractors’ -tenders—tenders which, I believe, had already been examined by a -sub-committee. From time to time a member asked for a few words of -explanation from the county engineer or from the contractors, who stood -apart at the end of the hall. No one made any speeches. No one wished -to raise an election cry by asking for impossibilities, as occasionally -happens amongst us. One felt that there were only competent well-bred -men present. It must be owned that that is a good deal.</p> - -<p>Both Protestants and Catholics are here—I am even told that for -some years the sheriff has always taken care to introduce a certain -number of Nationalists—opinions are therefore much divided. However, -politics do not appear in any way. These gentlemen only seem to -occupy themselves with the affairs of the county. What a lesson for -us! At this moment, in Paris, one cannot be a Republican and yet -believe in the efficacy of Pasteur’s method; in revenge one cannot -be a Conservative and doubt it! These Irishmen would seem very far -behind the Parisian municipal councillors!<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> At all events they are -good-humoured, and that, in my humble opinion, is always an advantage. -They exchange little jokes even while despatching business. The order -of the day involved a most interesting discussion. “In consideration -of the annual payment of a sum of 16<i>l.</i> 13<i>s.</i> the undernamed Joseph -A. Connell offers to undertake the maintenance of the road from -Knocknagasher to Ballinascreena, between the cross of Ballinagerah and -that of Meendhorna! Does this offer conceal a trap, or should it be -accepted?” At the moment that each grand jury man mentally and with -some anxiety asks himself this question, a lamentable voice is heard.</p> - -<p>“Mr. President!” exclaims an old, wretched-looking grand jury man, who -is seated at the end of the table, to the left facing the door—“Mr. -President! Could not the window behind me be closed? I am in such a -draught that I feel my hair blowing off my head.”</p> - -<p>“Sir,” replied the president with serene courtesy, “although I am -secure myself from the danger you foresee,” (the honourable president -is as bald as an apple,) “I consider it my duty to accede to your -request. Constable, shut the window!”</p> - -<p>The clerk, convulsed with laughter, buries his face in his papers; the -grand jury men shake in their chairs; the contractors at the end of the -hall laugh out loud; and even one of the constables smiles. He is a -young man, and has not yet attained the Olympian impassibility that is -distinctive of this select corps.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately the train is due. I am obliged to hastily shake hands -with Mr. Trench whilst thanking him for his kind hospitality. I -penetrated, with some effort, through the groups of peasants who -thronged the porch of the town-hall, and I had but just time to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> jump -into the carriage which was to take me back to Ballinacourty.</p> - -<p>Travelling by railway is singularly favourable to reflection, -particularly when one is alone in the compartment and the country on -either side utters little of interest. Whilst the locomotive speeds -on, without too much hurry, in the direction of Limerick, I reflect -over all that I have seen in the last three days. What a singular -social organisation exists in this country. Positively, one cannot -conceal it from one’s self, the country is, from a material point -of view, entirely at the mercy of half a dozen agents. These agents -offer, in most respects, every possible guarantee. They are men of -great experience, because in nearly all cases they fill the office of -estate managers from father to son. They are intelligent and upright; -if they were not their business would soon suffer from it, for it is -not unusual for a landowner to change his agent. But no one denies -their possession of all these qualities. Every morning I read all the -newspapers on both sides. I have not yet found a single accusation -against the respectability of the agents. It is certain that no other -nation owns a body of officials who can be compared to them.</p> - -<p>But they are not officials, they do not seek any part of the public -power, and they are not elected for any. They have not, therefore, to -render any account of their actions, either to the Government as though -they were officials, nor to the electors as though they were their -representatives; and yet, at a time when the system works regularly, -the force of circumstances gives them over almost all the citizens -power nearly as absolute as that of the pachas over the raias of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> -Turkish empire. They cannot impale an individual who offends them, -but they can easily transport him. In fact, in this country, where -agriculture is the only industry, a man can only live, on condition -of having some land, the necessary tool for the exercise of this -industry. Now an agent can take this tool from him, and, if he does, -the man has no resource but to emigrate. One can therefore say that -thousands of families are dependent upon one man to such an extent that -he can transport them if he wishes to do so. It must unquestionably be -very hard to feel one’s self so completely in a man’s power, however -honourable he may be. This position of affairs results from an economic -situation which laws cannot affect. It is not the less true that it is -dangerous, for it is easily understood that in certain dispositions it -produces a state of exasperation which may lead to any crimes.</p> - -<p>You must notice that it is not the administration of the land which is -the chief source of this state of things. Most of the estates are very -large, that is true, but there are also a fair number of middle-sized -ones. If they were managed by their owners or by different agents, the -situation would be less serious. A farmer dismissed from Lord X——’s -estate could find a farm under Lord Y——, or Messrs. A——, B—— or -C——; but here he is prevented from doing so by the fact that the same -agent manages the properties of all these gentlemen. As I said in the -commencement, the whole county is therefore in the hands of five or six -men, who are all interested in keeping on good terms with each other. -When there has been a rupture with one of them, a man may feel sure -that he will not be accepted by either of the others. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span></p> - -<p>In England the situation is very different. A man dismissed from -Lord X——’s land may perhaps be unable to become a tenant of Lord -Y——, another great landowner in the neighbourhood, but there are -twenty factories in the environs where he can always earn his living. -Expulsion from the farm where he is working does not necessarily end in -emigration.</p> - -<p>It is now more than a hundred years since France commenced her -evolution towards absolute political liberty. Of the orators and -authors who have placed their thoughts on paper to aid their ideas, -every one without exception has taken Great Britain as an example. To -all those who feel alarm at the rapidity of the movement, they always -answer, “What are you afraid of? The absolute freedom of the press, -the right of meeting, the right of association—all these liberties of -which you dread the abuse, have existed in England for centuries, and -have never injured either order or property.”</p> - -<p>I will not give an opinion on the root of this question, that would -entail too long a digression. I would only prove that the comparison -is fundamentally wrong, and consequently, argument is of little value. -It is very true that at all epochs the Irish or English agricultural -labourers have had the right of assembling, when they liked, on -the highways, around one of their number, and of there comfortably -listening to the most furious diatribes against the established laws. -The police had no right to interfere, and so they abstained from -interference.</p> - -<p>Only, the following day the orators, and, if requisite, some of the -assembly, receive notice from the agent that they would have to -remove, sometimes at twenty-four <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>hours’ notice, more frequently at -the end of the lease; and this notice is equivalent to a sentence of -transportation, at least as far as concerns the Irish. In England the -consequences are less serious; but it is not less true that in most -of the rural counties, only an infinitesimal number of electors have -the right of avowing political opinions which differ from those of the -chiefs of the two great national parties. The result is that an action, -which, although illegal in France, would only entail a fortnight’s -imprisonment to the man who committed it, is in England followed by -the most terrible consequences, although it is perfectly legal in the -country. The English Government, ultra Liberal in theory, which now -poses to all Europe as a model of Liberalism, has therefore only worked -until a very recent period through a system which suppressed in an -almost absolute degree all political liberty amongst the lower classes. -Now, for some years, particularly in Ireland, these classes have begun -to appreciate the situation; they wish to have in fact the rights they -had only in theory; and they have been able, by coalition, to paralyse -the anonymous powers which formerly ruled them, and above all, which -encircled them so efficaciously.</p> - -<p>And now the Government has ceased to act at all! I require no other -proof than the speech made by Baron Dowse.</p> - -<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">[3]</a> If any of my readers are interested in the misfortunes of -the poor people of Kenmare they will be pleased to learn that owing -to his forcible eloquence and diplomacy Mr. Trench was able to induce -the grand jury to make an order, which charged the whole county with -the sum that the barony alone ought to have reimbursed through the -collector’s theft. The taxpayers at Kenmare had then good reason to -congratulate themselves upon having confided to him the care of their -interests.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">[4]</a> Here are two of the old couplets, which confirm the claims -of the Blarney stone:</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>“There is a stone there</div> -<div>That whoever kisses,</div> -<div>Oh! he never misses</div> -<div class="i1">To grow eloquent.</div> -<div>’Tis he may clamber</div> -<div>To a lady’s chamber,</div> -<div>Or become a member</div> -<div class="i1">Of Parliament.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"> -<div>“A clever spouter</div> -<div>He’ll sure turn out, or</div> -<div>An out and outer</div> -<div class="i1">To be let alone!</div> -<div>Don’t hope to hinder him,</div> -<div>Or to bewilder him,</div> -<div>Sure he’s a pilgrim</div> -<div class="i1">From the Blarney Stone!”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p class="center">SEEKING AN AUTHENTIC CASE OF BOYCOTTING—LINE-FISHING ON THE -SHANNON—THE CONSTITUTIONAL—ENGLISH EDUCATION—THE IRISH -FARMERS—SUNDAY AT CASTLE-CONNELL—DEPARTURE FOR SHAUNGANEEN—MR. -THOMPSON—THE CORK DEFENCE UNION—CLOSE BOYCOTTING—PRETTY MISS -M’CARTHY AND HER LEG OF MUTTON—ENSILAGE IN THE OPEN AIR—THE -RETURN FROM CAHIRMEE—THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ENGLISH LADIES’ -VIRTUE AND THE BREEDING OF HALF THOROUGHBREDS—THE ORIGIN OF -HARICOT MUTTON—CHRISTMAS NIGHT AT SHAUNGANEEN, 1880.</p></blockquote> - -<p><i>July 12th.</i>—The study of the newspapers and everything that is said -around me shows me that I have at present only seen Ireland in the most -exceptional light. At Kenmare a fortunate combination of circumstances -has resulted in the two parties having as their chiefs very intelligent -men, both very popular in the two camps, and both using every effort to -calm the public feelings. The situation is so strained, that in spite -of these favourable conditions, there are some drawbacks: but suppose a -less prudent agent or landlord, or even a president of the Land League -who was anxious to attain notoriety, was there, as elsewhere, they -would certainly be in the same state that I am told is only too common -in this unhappy country.</p> - -<p>I should be much disappointed if I were forced to quit Ireland without -being able to judge for myself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> what the life of an unfortunate -man severely boycotted, as they say here, is like. The hospitable -traditions of the Emerald Isle are always in full force. I had -therefore scarcely expressed this wish before my amiable hosts -endeavoured to gratify it. It was not difficult to find a boycotted -person. There are enough of them to form a regiment, and every one to -whom I explain my difficulty says at once: “I know exactly what you -want.” They then proceed to enumerate with the greatest complacency -all the claims which their man can advance to be called “severely -boycotted.”</p> - -<p>In this way I received so many invitations, that, naturally being -unable to accept them all, I was involved in a serious amount of work -before I could ascertain which was the most authentic case. I proceeded -to eliminate them. For instance, one amiable landlord, who has not -received one penny from his farms for two or three years, about a -fortnight ago received as compensation three shots in his hat in one -evening, whilst he was driving his dog-cart along the road. This at -first appeared to be a serious claim; but I soon changed my impression. -Mr. X—— was actually fired at, but the shot was intended for one of -his neighbours. His servant never doubted it for an instant. When he -heard the shot whistling past his ears he turned round, and furiously -apostrophising the assassin whom they saw running away across a field, -he shouted out—</p> - -<p>“You fool, to take his honour for Mr. Z——! Have you no eyes?”</p> - -<p>Then, when his first anger had passed, he turned towards his master and -amicably admonished him.</p> - -<p>“There,” he said, “your honour is wrong! You know that Mr. Z—— has -been condemned by the League,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> and yet you drive out in the dusk with -a grey horse as like Mr. Z——’s as two drops of water. It isn’t -reasonable. A poor fellow can easily make a mistake!”</p> - -<p>And on the next morning Mr. X—— received by post a letter signed -“Captain Moonlight,” confirming in every respect his servant’s -explanation. The Captain much regretted his agent’s mistake, and -congratulated himself on the fortunate want of skill which had -prevented an “accident,” which he could never have forgiven himself, -ending his letter by advising his correspondent in a friendly way to -get rid of his grey horse or to leave it in the stables for some time.</p> - -<p>The first duty of a really patriotic traveller is to point out to the -merchants of his own country every good thing that may present itself -to him. I therefore notify Parisian horse-dealers that for the last -fortnight grey horses were sold for next to nothing in this country. -But this is a digression, which I hope will be pardoned on account of -the sentiment which inspired it. I said then that these explanations -appeared to me to diminish the value of Mr. X——’s claim to the title -of “severely boycotted;” in my opinion those of Mr. Z—— are superior. -But since he hastened to Italy, where he wished to visit some of the -museums, and his return still appears to be indefinitely postponed, I -am forced to renounce the idea of studying the beauties of boycottage -at his house.</p> - -<p>At last I discovered the object of my search. Mr. Thompson is one of -the principal agents in County Cork; he is unquestionably boycotted, -and if only one half of what is reported in the newspapers about him is -true, he is quite as “severely” so as any one could wish; for during -the last eighteen months it has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> necessary to place a garrison -of seventy-five men in his house. It has but just been withdrawn, and -will probably be replaced. Mr. Thompson, with whom I had been put in -communication, immediately and with the greatest kindness wrote to -invite me to stay with him, only he begged me not to arrive before -Monday. I had therefore three days to spend at Ballinacourty. I was, -however, only too pleased with the delay, which allowed me to enjoy -Colonel M——’s charming hospitality a little longer, and to see a -little of that country life, which differs so much in England from -anything of the same kind in France, and which—must I own it?—is so -much more agreeable.</p> - -<p>This morning I went for a walk alone to see the country and talk at -leisure to the peasantry. My first visit is always to the Shannon; -through my open windows, I can hear in the night the roaring of its -cascades. Its banks are covered with superb trees, and nothing is more -charming than a walk there in the morning. It can only be made by -passing through private grounds, for from here to Castle Connell the -whole country between the high road and the river is occupied by the -parks of seven or eight castles or country houses. But in this country -the owners seem to invite you to enter their properties. Everywhere you -find hurdle fences or gates always standing open.</p> - -<p>I own that I was first attracted by the fly-fishing. Amongst us a -fisherman is nearly always an elderly man for whom life has ceased to -have illusions. He likes solitude, and consoles himself by the society -of the gudgeons in place of the mortifications of an existence passed -on the stool of a bureau or in the thick atmosphere of a back shop; the -fraternity is also<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> recruited by a number of retired officers; there -are even some old captains of the line who belong to it, but they are -in bad odour with the general inspectors and are never promoted to a -superior rank.</p> - -<p>English fishermen are very different. That which amongst us is almost -regarded as the first halting-place in the progress towards the final -softening of the brain, is, on the contrary, amongst our neighbours, -considered a brevet of supreme elegance. Angling is one of their -most-appreciated sports. A whole literature is devoted to it. When -a young cavalry guardsman can announce to his comrades, towards the -month of June, that he has obtained three weeks’ leave to go and -install himself in a hut in Sweden, on the banks of a stream where -he can get some fly-fishing, he becomes the object of secret envy -amongst all his less fortunate comrades. If a French novelist made -one of his heroes enjoy fly-fishing, you would feel sure that he is a -husband, who would be abominably deceived before the third chapter; -when an English one wishes to explain the lightning flash that kindled -in Miss Kissmequick’s heart an inane love for the lively Irish Major -O’Kelshick, he describes him taking three trout in ten minutes before -the young heiress! That is quite enough to subjugate her, and not an -English girl reads it but she inwardly owns that it would be quite -enough for her too!</p> - -<p>There is another thing well recognised by all observers really worthy -of the name, and this is that amongst the different races of men and -animals called to live together in the same country, there are always -physically, as well as morally, if not some points of resemblance, at -least some phenomena of conformation which indicate that they are made -to assist each other.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> Thus, suppose that Providence had decreed that -the race of Perche horses should resemble the Corsican ponies, where -would the stout Normandy farmers’ wives, with their rounded forms, -have been able to place all that, by the gift of exuberant Nature, -they are forced to carry to market, when they are seated pillionwise -behind their husbands? It is because they require so much room that the -Percheron mares themselves have those beautiful round haunches which -have made them so justly celebrated; whilst the small Corsican women -whom one sees arrive at the Alata or Boccognano markets are perfectly -comfortable on their thin ponies. Providence does all things well!</p> - -<p>We must also notice—and it is in order to reach this point that I -have allowed myself this digression—we must, I say, notice that this -similitude does not only exist in external forms, it is also visible -in characters. For instance, an Englishman knows how to imprint his -individuality on all that surrounds him, animate as well as inanimate -objects. The Englishman is a being whose manners are always solemn and -systematic. He is so much the slave of his habits that he carries them -with him wherever he may be. Imagine two Englishmen, one at Chimborazo, -the other on the Himalayas, and except for the difference of time which -results from the difference of longitude, you may be sure that they -will both eat the same thing at the same hour. If you offer them at -two o’clock the meal they have been accustomed to eat at eight, or at -eight the repast they are used to take at two, they will wither you -with a glance pregnant with the deepest contempt, and turn their backs -upon you. The completeness of these habits constitute what is called -respectability. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span></p> - -<p>Well, the fish in this country—it is of Ireland that I am -speaking—have contracted these habits. Offer as bait to one of our -fish anything extraordinary, and he will swallow it, even if it is -not good, simply from love of change, from curiosity. This sentiment -in the last century made all our great ladies enjoy going to the -<i>porcherons</i> so much to eat the <i>petits plats canailles</i> there. This -is why we are such a revolutionary people! The trout and the salmon in -the Shannon are not like that. If at eight o’clock you offer them a fly -which they adore, but which generally they only eat at noon, instead -of being seduced by the novelty, as our French fish would be, instead -of allowing themselves to be tempted by the earliness of the season, -they would turn round with a whisk of the tail, and you would not -see another of them. Your advances, although well meant, shock them, -because you have broken the usual rules, and they perceive in your -action an attack against their respectability.</p> - -<p>The English quite understand these sentiments. This is why, just as -Baron Brisse composed a daily <i>menu</i>, to the great assistance of his -readers, so they formed albums of artificial flies, which one has only -to turn over to see what a trout or salmon who respected himself, -should take not only every day of the year, but also every hour of each -day. This idea appeared so sublime to me that I bought one of these -albums; it cost me five pounds, and its information has never aided me -in catching a single French fish.</p> - -<p>But the English are more fortunate, or more skilful, than I am. Every -morning, at dawn, I see the tenants or owners of fishing wending their -way towards the river, consulting their albums. Two men are waiting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> -for them seated in a punt moored to a tree. They begin by a long -discussion as to which fly it would be most advisable to offer as the -dish of the day. In order to settle this, they carefully examine the -flies that are visible on the river. A still more certain means, when -it is practicable, is to procure a trout, and to open its stomach to -see what it has eaten for its first breakfast. When once their choice -is made, they dress four or five hooks; one is fastened to the line, -the others are placed round the hat ready for use. I ought to have -mentioned that fly-fishing requires a special costume. It seems to me -that it is absolutely necessary to wear knickerbockers, and for the -complete suit to be of homespun, with yellow or green squares, the same -sort of thing that we see the English wear from time to time in the -opera amongst us—but not over here!</p> - -<p>When these preparations are once ended, the punt is pushed into the -midst of the river; the two boatmen, seated at the extremities, keep it -still in the current, and their master sets to work. He flourishes his -line two or three times in the air, and then with an adroit turn of the -rod, he throws the fly up the stream, as far away as possible, holds -it on the surface of the water whilst it descends the stream, and then -recommences, without growing tired of it, during four or five hours. -Every morning I see seven or eight gentlemen devote themselves to this -amusement. From time to time their fly catches a hat on its way, either -their own or a boatman’s. This is about the only thing I ever saw them -catch. When it happens, they pause an instant in order to enable the -owner to recover his lost headgear, but this is the only incident which -can trouble their Olympian serenity. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p> - -<p>These are the lucky ones of this world. They pay 200<i>l.</i> or 300<i>l.</i> -per annum, and sometimes more, to obtain the right of enjoying this -amusement. They alone can hope to capture a salmon, but allow others to -gather up the crumbs from their table. On the bank one sees gentlemen -of less importance, whom the others allow to fish for trout. This is -the democracy of fly-fishing. Outside all questions of sentiment or -prejudices, whichever you like, I do not pity them much, for they -appear to me to catch a great deal more than the others.</p> - -<p>I am not the only one who contemplates all these beautiful scenes. I -also meet on the river banks a good number of people who are taking -their constitutionals—that walk for health’s sake which absorbs -one-half of every good Englishman’s existence. The “constitutional” is -still an institution of the country. I must say a few words about it.</p> - -<p>All philosophers agree that the body is a machine given to man for -his use. English ideas about the method of employing this machine are -very different from our own. A Frenchman, as a rule, is not anxious -to make any exceptional demands upon its strength. His great desire -is that the machine should work properly and without requiring too -much care. If on days when he feels so inclined he can walk twelve -or fifteen miles without fatigue; if at the fair at Saint Cloud he -can unhook an honourable number with a blow on the Turk’s head, he -is perfectly satisfied. And if any one came and said to him, “Place -yourself under my directions; I will make you rise early and go to bed -early, although you like to rise late and sit up late: I will make you -walk quickly six or seven hours a day,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> after which I will exterminate -you with exercises on the dumb-bells; I will prevent your eating when -you are hungry and drinking when you are thirsty; but thanks to my -rules you will be able to do thirty miles without noticing it; at the -next fair at Saint Cloud you will when you play give such a blow to the -Turk’s head that the whole machine will be reduced to matchwood, and -if you will accept a pair of the running breeches which Mr. Marseille -offers for the use of amateurs, you will beat all his pupils in turn, -amongst the applause of the idolatrous crowd;” I would bet heavily -that ninety-nine Frenchmen out of a hundred would reply to this vile -tempter—</p> - -<p>“A thousand thanks! But first of all, I have a number of more -interesting and amusing things to do than any of those you propose for -me. I have only one life, and should be miserable if I used it in so -wearisome a fashion. And lastly, if I must tell you the whole truth, it -is possible that the prospect you open out to me may be very attractive -to certain people, but it leaves me quite indifferent! Allow me, then, -to remain as I am!”</p> - -<p>An Englishman would probably accept the bargain at once. I was wrong -to use the conditional. Two-thirds of the English, at least of those -who belong to the upper classes of society, look up to this ideal from -their earliest youth. Amongst our neighbours the truest happiness in -reality consists in the enjoyment and exercise of physical strength. -Incontestably that is the quality that they most appreciate. I have -seen many Englishmen, thoroughly exasperated against Mr. Gladstone -because of his Radicalism, allow their anger to melt away when they -remember that although nearly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> eighty years old, he can still cut down -trees at Hawarden.</p> - -<p>A father feels more pride in his son’s talents as a boxer or rower, -than in his literary success at Oxford or Cambridge. Amongst us, the -newspapers write lengthily about the great competitions, but completely -neglect to inform us of the games of prisoner’s base which the young -candidates may have previously waged in their respective colleges. -In England, the <i>Times</i> gives a short summary of the examinations at -the end of the Oxford and Cambridge years; but as soon as the annual -boat-race between the two universities draws near, its columns are -freely opened to all details respecting it. For three months before -the event takes place special reporters are employed to keep the -English and colonial populations acquainted with the most minute -particulars respecting the rowers’ health. They begin by quoting the -men’s weights; the special rules that the trainers impose upon each of -them are carefully explained. One fine morning, England learns with -consternation that Jones, the stroke of one of the boats, has awakened -with a slight headache; but on the morrow a relieved sigh escapes from -thirty million breasts on reading the assurance that judicious purging -has cured Jones’s headache.</p> - -<p>These customs, which seem so strange to us, have certainly their good -side. A young Englishman of sixteen or seventeen is intellectually -one of the most prodigious dunces in creation. If one is absolutely -determined to make him talk, one can induce him easily enough to relate -every detail of the fine boxing match between Jack Thompson and Dick -Harris, or he will even explain to you, and very clearly, the rules he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> -followed in order to lose five pounds of his weight in one week, and -beat Tom Wilkinson racing. This is all you can get from him, and it is -very wearisome. But I infinitely prefer the type to that of Chérubin -de Beaumarchais, who, nevertheless, never existed, or that of Fanfan -Benoîton, who, unfortunately, is only too common amongst us.</p> - -<p>The most terrible thing is that in this respect a young Englishman -does not improve as he grows older, at least for the first few years. -When he is nearly thirty years old, and he has seen and done a good -many things, he often becomes interesting. But before that he has an -extraordinary lack of conversation. There are several reasons for -this. First of all he knows very little, for, in fact, he never learnt -anything whilst he was at college. He does not read much: he really -only interests himself in questions of sport. More than this, he takes -no trouble. A Frenchman always thinks he can please a woman by seeking -to be witty in her presence. The efforts he makes with this object may -perhaps render him ridiculous, but it is because every one is doing his -best that our <i>salons</i> are so agreeable and contain so many pleasant -talkers. In England these ideas do not exist. Physical beauty rather -than wit secures worldly success for a young man. In France a woman -is fairly content not to be witty, but she desires above all to be -beautiful; on the contrary, most of the men are indifferent about their -appearance, but would be greatly mortified if any one questioned their -wit.</p> - -<p>In England the position is completely reversed. A fashionable young -man, entering a drawing-room, takes no trouble to please the ladies -present; he almost seems to say: “You must court and admire me!” On -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> other hand an Englishwoman is not coquettish in dress. She often -flirts <i>à outrance</i> before her marriage, but that is necessary in order -to obtain a husband. As soon as she has landed her prize she troubles -very little about her appearance. But, in return, her husband is always -well dressed, and often spends more on his clothes than she does on -hers.</p> - -<p>I said that young Englishmen know very little when they leave college. -It would be very difficult for them to do otherwise, having given to -study only the few hours left from cricket and boating. Most of the -well-informed men that one meets have learnt all that they know after -they left college. The educational system in this country has then -a curious result. Whilst they are paying dearly for classes held by -excellent professors, and for the use of the finest libraries in the -world, they only learn boating, and it is quite impossible to study -seriously, since all the time is passed in recreation. But some higher -natures resent this deprivation of work so strongly that they leave -college with a profound distaste for idleness, and they succeed in -their self-instruction. Perhaps it would be more rational to work -seriously during the years at college and to boat afterwards. This -is the French system, only we exaggerate it so much that through -unremitting study at college many of our young men are apt to dislike -work afterwards. The true idea, according to the Romans, would be to -have a <i>mens sana in corpore sano</i>. We Frenchmen, particularly in -former years, have perhaps done rather too much for the development -of the mind and not enough for the body; but really the English have -always seemed to me to have gone too far in the opposite direction. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span></p> - -<p>When I had ended my walk by the river-side, I returned across the -fields and highway, talking to the peasants whom I met. Really, the -more one sees of these fine Irishmen, the more one becomes attached -to them. They have only two faults—they are very idle and horribly -untruthful. But how witty they are! I am told that the other day an -English tourist, a man already elderly, arrived at Castle Connell. -He intended passing some weeks here, and on the recommendation of a -friend, he had written to the inn to secure a room; he wished for one -in the front of the house. He had been promised one, but did not get -it. An honourable individual, living by his wits, introduced himself as -having fishing rights in the river, and led him, for a consideration, -to a certain spot, where he left him, promising him wonderful success. -In five minutes he was arrested by a keeper, who threatened him with -prosecution. After three or four adventures of the same kind he packed -his portmanteau, vowing that he would never visit Ireland again.</p> - -<p>At the station, just as he was starting, he was surrounded by four or -five beggars.</p> - -<p>“You tell me,” said he, “that you are dying of hunger; that too, must -be a lie. Since I have been in this country I hear nothing but lies. -Look, here are three shillings! I promise them to whoever will tell me -the biggest!”</p> - -<p>“Ah,” readily answered the most ragged of the band, addressing his -neighbour, “here, at least, is a <i>ra-al gintleman</i>!” And he held out -his hand, sure of having won the three shillings.</p> - -<p>We must not judge this want of veracity too severely: it is the certain -result of centuries of oppression, during<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> which untruthfulness was -the sole protection of the persecuted against the persecutor. Every -race that has passed through the same trials has the same defect, -and it is very slowly corrected. If I allude to it, it is because I -perceive that the information that one receives in this country must -be accepted with some reserve. An Irish peasant, in contrast to our -own, is always inclined to speak of his affairs. Only if one holds two -conversations with him, leaving a day’s interval between them, one -finds that frequently his statements on the second day bear very little -resemblance to those he had made on the preceding one. It is therefore -difficult to arrive at the truth. Thus, after once visiting all their -houses, I considered that the fact that these people were living in -misery was conclusively proved.</p> - -<p>But perhaps this is not so certain as I fancied. We must distinguish -between them. Those who twenty or twenty-five years ago had a -fair-sized and not too bad a farm have profited by the rise in the -price of meat, and have made money. If they live so miserably it is -because it suits them. The proof that until quite recently they were -doing well, is, that when they felt inclined to give up their farms -they easily found people who gave them relatively considerable sums as -the price of their lease. And this often when the landlords had not -received one penny of rent for some years. But a farmer’s position -could not be as bad as he pretended, since he could find others who -were ready to accept it, although it was aggravated by the price of the -lease. I, however, believe that an enormous decrease in the number of -farms is inevitable here as elsewhere, and here more than elsewhere. -The price of meat is lower in all the English ports, particularly -the price of medium<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> qualities, through the immense importations -of American and Australian meat: this trade is likely to increase -prodigiously, for its profits are enormous. But, until the last few -years, farmers who had one hundred acres, ought, at least, to have been -able to pay their rents very comfortably.</p> - -<p>We must therefore distinguish between them. The large farmers, who -were able to raise cattle, pretend to be miserable, but are not really -in distress. They try to profit by the situation. But the misery -is terrible amongst the small farmers, who are much more numerous, -since it certainly includes four-fifths of the population. Some years -ago there were 300,000 holdings under 5 acres; 250,000 from 5 to 15 -acres; 80,000 from 15 to 30; and only 50,000 of more than 30; and, -consequently, there were more than 600,000 families who lived on farms -of less than 15 acres. The great majority were therefore unable to -raise cattle. Now agriculture, which has never been very remunerative -in this country, on account of the climate and of the inferior quality -of the soil, is absolutely impossible now that to these drawbacks -foreign competition is added. The small farm has therefore no future -here, as I have already said, but it cannot be repeated too often, -because any policy that is not inspired by this fundamental truth, can -only result in disaster. Besides, one of the reasons which have made -small holdings so successful with us, is the spirit of order, economy, -and industry, which so greatly characterises our peasantry. Now, I do -not know whether Irishmen are very economical; I rather doubt it; but -I am sure that the Irishwomen, at least, are not industrious. If they -were they would never allow their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> own and their children’s clothes -to remain in the state we see them in. Every lady tells me that there -is scarcely one peasant in ten who knows how to sew. The other day -I visited the convent at Kenmare, and I saw there a hundred little -girls, whom the Sisters were teaching to make a lace that appeared to -me to resemble the lace made at Caen. The nuns owned to me that their -pupils had very little inclination for needlework. Neither have they -any aptitude for cooking. When I enter a house at meal times I always -see three rather dirty dishes on the table. On the first there is a -piece of bacon, on the second and the third there are boiled potatoes -and cabbages. The whole is as little appetising as possible. It reminds -me of the horrible meals in the Far West. With the same materials a -Burgundian would make a dish of which the smell alone would revive the -dead.</p> - -<p>The afternoon was passed in calling upon the neighbours, for I find -that there is much sociable visiting in this country. The day before -yesterday there was a grand charitable sale of work, which was attended -by more than three hundred people. Every day of the week there is a -tennis party held somewhere. There I met, dressed in white flannel and -in an extraordinary state of perspiration, all the people whom I saw -in the morning taking their constitutionals or fly-fishing. At each of -these little festivals assemble at least thirty or forty people who -live in a radius of about six miles at the outside—and even less, for -many of the young men come on foot, carrying their tennis shoes with -them. I do not know any province in France, and I do not believe there -are any, where it would be possible to organise so many reunions of -this kind. The ruin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> of Ireland through absenteeism!—this thesis so -frequently brought forward is surely a legend! In any case, at least in -this county, absenteeism is much rarer than is reported and than I had -imagined. In the immediate neighbourhood of Ballinacourty there are at -least twenty castles and country houses. All but one are inhabited. If -this is empty, it is not the owner’s fault; he is dead.</p> - -<p>To-day is Sunday. This morning two jaunting cars conducted the master -and servants to Castle Connell. Since noon yesterday it rains in -torrents. This does not prevent all the peasant women whom we meet -on the road, walking to church, being dressed in wonderful costumes. -I noticed five or six women, whom I had seen during the week, their -hair falling round their faces, bare-footed, scarcely covered with a -chemise and a petticoat. To-day they have bonnets with flowers, boots, -and some of them silk dresses. The men, without being so brilliant, -are relatively well dressed. Apparently it is only the children who -do not participate in this general Sunday smartness. I see numbers of -them running in the mud, nearly as naked as during the week. But they -improve by being seen in the rain. They are washed.</p> - -<p>At the entrance to Castle Connell our carriages draw up before the -Protestant Church, a pretty little place, where a young English -clergyman officiates who has not, like his colleague at Kenmare, joined -the Land League. He is therefore not on good terms with the Catholic -population. But on the other hand, his parishioners praise him highly.</p> - -<p>The neighbouring gentry arrive one after the other. Seeing me remain in -the carriage, Lord M——<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> graciously signed to me to take a seat in his -pew; but I reply to this proposal by a horrified gesture which makes -them all laugh heartily, and I go with all the coachmen and footmen to -the Catholic church.</p> - -<p>When I reach it a compact crowd is hurrying in. Under the porch I -notice a group of men surrounding a table on which a tray is placed. -One of them addresses me roughly as I pass:</p> - -<p>“Don’t you mean to subscribe?”</p> - -<p>“Subscribe! What for?”</p> - -<p>“Take care, Jim!” interrupted one of his companions, “it’s the -Frenchman staying with the Colonel.”</p> - -<p>“Ah! you are French. God bless the French! Now, sir, won’t you kindly -subscribe something for the election expenses of those who defend the -good cause [the Parliamentary Fund]?”</p> - -<p>I placed a few shillings on the tray. I am sure that there were already -8<i>l.</i> or 10<i>l.</i> there. What a nice thing it is to be a candidate in -this country! Alas! it is not like this at home!</p> - -<p>I hope that my offering will please Mr. Harrington. In any case, it has -not injured me in the opinion of the inhabitants of Castle Connell, for -one of them at once led me to the front, and showered civilities upon -me all through the mass.</p> - -<p>This evening I said good-bye to my kind hosts, for I must start early -in order to meet Mr. Thompson at Limerick, where he undertakes to show -me Irish life under a new aspect. It appears that up to now I have only -seen the Land Leaguers in rose colour. He will take me home with him, -where he promises to show me the best they can do in this way. I am, -therefore, on my way to a boycotted country! </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>July 13th.</i>—I quite understand that, strictly speaking, the Irish -complain of having too many policemen. However, seeing what is taking -place amongst them, it appears as though there were more reason to -increase their number than to withdraw those who are already there. -But they ought, at least, to feel proud of those whom the English -Government gives them. For whatever may be the connection that exists -with them; whether they protect or arrest you, it is always preferable -to have dealings with a clean, well-dressed policeman than with a dirty -one. The lists of the Irish constabulary force are so numerous that -this corps is perhaps more like an army than a police force. But I have -never seen an army so well dressed. When I see some of its men passing, -and I mentally compare them with those we see at home, I cannot help -owning that the comparison is very painful to my national pride. Why do -they not improve such a sorry state of things? Why, for instance, is it -necessary, no matter what the rulers are—and yet, God knows, we change -them often enough—why, I repeat, must the breeches of our army be -always so badly made, whilst the trousers of all these constables look -as though they had come from some great tailors’ workshops? The other -day, I was sufficiently curious to ask the officer with whom I dined at -Kenmare, how they managed so as to make it always quite unnecessary to -address to these men the reproaches good St. Eloi so freely bestowed on -his august master. He explained to me—I am speaking of the officer, -not of St. Eloi—that the clothes are all kept in the shops, not made -as they are with us, but simply cut out. In this state they are given -to the men. Then, thanks to an allowance, given on purpose,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> there is -a tailor in each locality, who undertakes to fit them and sew them -together. The same system also prevails in the navy. Would it then -be quite impossible to attempt an analogous combination amongst us? -Whatever the results might be, they could not be worse than those which -sadden our eyes and disgrace one half of our army—the half nearest the -ground.</p> - -<p>Mr. Thompson had appointed to meet me this morning in the Limerick -station, from which we were to start together for his home at -Shaunganeen, but as he was coming from the south, and I from Castle -Connell, our trains did not fit in, and I had to wait nearly -three-quarters of an hour. What can be done in a railway station, -unless one dreams? might have said M. de la Fontaine, had stations -existed in his time. And therefore I allowed myself to make all the -reflections which I have just written down—reflections suggested to me -by the sight of twenty or twenty-five constables, who, after forming on -the quay under a sergeant’s orders, took their seats four by four on -the benches of jaunting cars, which were waiting for them before the -door. They then drove off towards the country.</p> - -<p>“There, a few more poor devils will sleep homeless to-night!” said one -of the railway officials, standing by my side, looking at them with an -unsympathetic air.</p> - -<p>And it is probable that they are going to aid in an eviction. The men -are in marching dress, knapsack on the back, and rifle on the shoulder. -I must mention that the cars waiting for them are painted red, and -driven by officials belonging to the Government. Formerly, when a -squad had to be transferred rapidly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> from one point to another, the -Government hired carriages, but now it has been obliged for some years -to have its own, for there was not one owner who dared provide them for -its use.</p> - -<p>My meditation was suddenly interrupted.</p> - -<p>“We must hurry,” said Mr. Thompson, who had just arrived; “our train is -ready, we have but just time to take our places.”</p> - -<p>Two minutes later we were rolling towards Shaunganeen. Mr. Thompson is, -like Mr. Trench my host at Kenmare, one of the best known agents in the -south of Ireland. During the two hours that the journey lasted he told -me his story, and related through what train of unlucky circumstances -he could now boast of being at the present time one of the most -boycotted men in all Ireland. You must first know that Mr. Thompson is -not, like most of his brethren, content to be only a receiver of rents. -Instead of letting to the farmers all the land, the management of which -has been confided to him, he retains a sufficiently large portion in -his own hands, reserving it for the landlord. This arrangement would -be quite unsuccessful amongst us. However, they say that certain Irish -landlords have derived benefit from its adoption. In any case, it has -one advantage. The landlords are less at the mercy of a coalition of -farmers, for the latter, knowing that the bailiff or agent disposes of -all the necessities of cultivation, always dread that their lands may -be taken from them if they ask for too much reduction—a dread that may -be salutary, but which they would not have by the other arrangement.</p> - -<p>Mr. Thompson’s case proves that this weapon has not great efficacy in -actual circumstances. One of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> farmers was greatly in arrear; he did -not pay, and showed no intention of paying. His land was contiguous to -some of the land cultivated by Mr. Thompson. The latter thought that -it would be a good opportunity of uniting them; he therefore asked the -farmer to come and see him, and proposed to take them back—adding that -if he were willing to consent to this arrangement, they would give him -a receipt for the rent in arrear. He curtly refused, and said that -he would refer the matter to the Land League. He did so, for, two or -three days later, Mr. Thompson received a notice that if the man were -sent away, the farm would be boycotted. Usually the boycotting of a -farm inflicts great loss upon its landlord because he cannot find a -tenant. But since Mr. Thompson had no intention of seeking one, for he -intended cultivating the land himself, he thought it useless to take -any notice of this threat. The necessary formalities were completed; at -the termination of the legal delay he secured the assistance of a good -number of soldiers and constables, and the eviction took place, without -more stones and mud than usual being thrown at the representatives of -authority.</p> - -<p>Mr. Thompson felt quite proud of the victory he fancied he had gained -over the League. But he soon discovered that his triumph was less -complete than he had at first imagined. One day, in going round the -farm, he noticed that the hay was ready to cut. The same evening he -told four men, who usually worked for him, to take their scythes the -next morning and commence mowing. The men curtly refused, saying that -the League had placarded in the village a prohibition against working -on the land, and they dared<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> not disobey. They were immediately -dismissed. Only it was equally necessary to send away all the other -farm-labourers, for none of them were more docile. He endeavoured to -procure substitutes from the neighbouring villages by offering two or -three times the usual wages; it was impossible to find a single one.</p> - -<p>A short time before these events some of the victims of the League -had recognised that one cause of their weakness was their isolation. -They agreed that the best means of resistance would be to borrow -some of its methods of procedure. <i>Similia, similibus!</i> Resistance, -although impossible to one man, could be made efficacious if they -organised themselves—all the more so, because many of the people -who now submitted would have resisted had they been sure of being -supported. They therefore formed, under the name of the Cork Defence -Union, an association, which was intended to unite all opponents of -the League, and to paralyse by every possible means its most offensive -measure, <i>i.e.</i> boycotting. The most important persons in the county, -the Earl of Bandon and Viscount Doneraile, were named president and -vice-president. Numerous adherents joined from all sides, and soon -the Anti-league had command of sufficient resources to enter upon a -campaign. In order to bring those to reason whom the Leaguers of the -neighbourhood found refractory, they had adopted two very efficacious -methods. They forbade the blacksmiths to shoe the horses, and the -owners of machines to thresh the harvest of those whom they had -interdicted. The association imported machines and portable forges, -which, protected by a strong escort of constables and managed by picked -men, scoured the country and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> worked in spite of all attempts to break -them. For the first time they succeeded in counteracting the League.</p> - -<p>Mr. Thompson was one of the first adherents and even one of the -organisers of the Cork Defence Union. He, therefore, at once thought -of applying to it for help in his embarrassment. The Cork Defence -Union was equal to the circumstances. In two days it supplied twelve -determined mowers from England, who arrived escorted by a picket of -cavalry and a company of infantry. This haymaking was useful for the -instruction of the troops. The rules of the service when in campaign -were strictly observed. Every morning the cavalry reconnoitred the -country, ready to fall back upon the infantry, who were drawn up in -battle array on the edge of the field, and during the night advanced -posts guarded every haystack. Thanks to these wise precautions, and -also to the fact that there was very little rain, the hay was gathered -in at the end of four days. But when making up his accounts Mr. -Thompson found with some bitterness that agriculture is really not -remunerative when it is carried on under military protection.</p> - -<p>However, he found a little consolation in the fact that, questionable -though his own triumph might be, the partisans of the Land League -were greatly troubled by it. In place of material results, he had -secured a moral victory. He saw the proof of this result in the great -number of meetings that immediately took place in the neighbourhood, -meetings attended by two or three thousand people. The parish priest -of Shaunganeen who was president of the local Land League, made a -speech, and expressed himself with the greatest violence.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> He declared -in allusion to Mr. Thompson that his name “smelt of blood,” and he -made his auditors pass the most energetic resolutions. But here I must -make a few observations; boycotting has become so common in Ireland, -that gradually a kind of jurisprudence has been introduced into its -application. Thus, there is a first degree of boycotting, which is not -applied directly to persons. A refractory landlord finds his produce -or his property interdicted. He can neither let the one nor sell the -other. Usually, he hastens to yield, apologises, pays a fine, and -things remain as they were. But if he still resists, the measures taken -against him begin to assume a more personal character. He can no longer -buy anything that he may require, for whoever sells anything to him, -or renders him any service, is at once excommunicated. Until then the -League takes the whole responsibility of its actions. Its sentences -are often placarded. In every case they are announced in the party -newspapers. It is not until the series of mutilations of cattle, arson, -and attempts at murder, which form the third degree of boycotting, -commences, that it always disclaims all responsibility. Now, until the -memorable day on which Mr. Thompson gathered in his hay, thanks to the -skilful manœuvres of a little “army corps,” only the first degree of -boycotting had been applied to him, and the situation might have been -indefinitely prolonged without any perceptible aggravation. But all -was spoilt, because on the one hand, the League would not submit to a -defeat, and above all, Mr. Thompson was not content to triumph quietly. -He at once wrote a letter, which was published in all the newspapers, -in which, after thanking the Union, he related the events that had -taken place, announced the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> success of his proceeding, and urged all -those who were in the same position to have recourse to the same means. -He did not know the wasps’ nest he was throwing himself into, but he -soon learnt. The letter appeared on a Saturday. The following day about -two o’clock, he saw a well-meaning friend arrive. He had walked the -three miles that separated the house from the town, in order to warn -him that the League were holding a meeting, and he had great reason -to believe that he was the subject of it. Mr. Thompson, still elated -by his success, would not believe it. But the same evening at seven -o’clock, the constabulary sergeant sent a man to him, warning him to -take precautions, and particularly to be careful to remain indoors, -for serious things might happen during the night. Mr. Thompson, who is -unmarried, lived at that time with one of his sisters, a young girl of -fifteen; two servants, who had been in his service for a long time and -upon whom he thought he could rely, slept in the house. They had an -abundance of arms, and, what was more important, the doors and window -shutters had been lined with sheet iron during the Fenian insurrection. -They hastened to barricade the house, and every one prepared to go to -bed, when towards nine o’clock knocking was heard at the kitchen door. -Armed to the teeth, Mr. Thompson went to it at once.</p> - -<p>“Who is there?” said he.</p> - -<p>“Open, open quickly, for the love of God, your honour,” replied a -stifled voice.</p> - -<p>“Who are you? I warn you that I shall fire.”</p> - -<p>“I am the butcher’s servant, your honour. They came and told Mr. -McCarthy that from to-day he is forbidden to supply your honour with -anything at all.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> Mr. McCarthy wished that your honour should at least -have time to get straight. He therefore sends two legs of mutton, which -I have brought, but I was much afraid I should never reach the house! -Two men are already standing as sentinels at the gate. I saw them -arrive, and I crept through a gap in the hedge. But for the love of -God, your honour, take your mutton quickly and let me go. I shall go -back by the river, walking in the water, and I hope they won’t see me -leave the park. But then, if they should see me, I can say that I left -the master’s house before he received the order from the League.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Thompson took the mutton and shut the door, feeling very uneasy -at the turn affairs were taking. However, the night passed quietly. -The following morning, well armed, he went out to reconnoitre; on the -side of the road, in front of his gate, he saw two peasants standing, -leaning against a tree; whilst he looked at them he saw two others -arrive from the town. They exchanged a few words with the first two and -then took their places. They were day sentinels who relieved those who -had watched through the night.</p> - -<p>He went towards the outhouses. The yard men had already left some time -before, but the household had up till then continued in his service. -Every one had disappeared during the night. The two old servants who -had slept in the house were the only ones left, and they were quite -drunk already, but swore that they were ready to die for their good -master, who found himself obliged to feed his horses, for they were not -in a state to do it.</p> - -<p>“That is how my boycotting began,” said Mr. Thompson as he ended his -recital; “and now it has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> lasted six years!” he added philosophically. -“But here we are!”</p> - -<p>The train had just stopped before a small isolated station in the -middle of some fields, for the town is between two and three miles -from the station. Shaunganeen, like Castle Connell, has had its days -of splendour. It is, however, one of the few localities in this -country which has not been the capital of a kingdom, but a saint with -a very complicated name settled here towards the seventh century, -and attracted, says history, by the fertility of the soil and the -favourable dispositions of the inhabitants, he founded an abbey -which soon became celebrated. Only a few rather fine ruins remain of -the monastery, and the city, which, until 1787 was represented in -Parliament by two members, is now only a large and rather miserable -town. The station yard presented an interesting spectacle. In the -centre an old coachman was standing holding with one hand a very -handsome cob harnessed to a dog-cart, and with the other a grey donkey -harnessed to a small cart. The first of these vehicles was intended for -us, the second for our luggage. Half a dozen urchins in wonderful rags -were standing round contemplating the group, with their hands in their -pockets; and there, calm and serious, a gigantic constable stood on the -quay, a switch in one hand, benevolently standing to be admired by the -population.</p> - -<p>The old servant greeted us with such a lugubrious gesture of the head, -and his whole appearance denoted such extreme dejection, that I saw Mr. -Thompson turn visibly paler.</p> - -<p>“Good heavens, Tim!” he exclaimed, hastening towards him, “has anything -fresh happened?” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Ah, your honour! Has anything happened? Yes, something has happened!”</p> - -<p>“But what?”</p> - -<p>“Your honour, when leaving, told Miss Thompson to write to Dublin to -order beer and whisky, but she has forgotten to do it. The day before -yesterday she sent me to Tom Sweeney, the tavern-keeper, to get some. -He refused to give it! And since yesterday there has not been a drop of -whisky in this house!”</p> - -<p>“This is very serious,” said Mr. Thompson, by whose side I was already -installed in the dog-cart, “but I dreaded something worse. Tim, you can -follow us with the luggage.”</p> - -<p>“Monsieur,” he continued, laughing, “you were kind enough to accept the -hospitality of an unfortunately boycotted household; but you see, you -will have to share some privations. However, I can promise you some -bread for this evening. There is not a baker, within a round of ten -leagues, who will supply us with bread, but we have a kind neighbour -who is willing from time to time to give us some of his provisions. -He brings it himself across the park by night. We dare not ask him -very often because he risks being shot on every journey; but we shall -have some to-day. On the other hand, you will not have any meat; it -comes to us from Dublin, about forty miles away, and I have not had -time to write for it. Usually we do without it, because it has to be -fetched from the station, for no messenger will bring it to us, and our -household is so much reduced that we avoid errands as much as possible. -We therefore content ourselves with biscuits, preserves, and the -produce of the poultry yard.” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span></p> - -<p>“But, dear sir,” I replied, “believe me, I am too glad of your kind -invitation not to be very grateful for it, even if you could only give -me a potato and a glass of water. But let me speak freely to you. I -quite admit that the butcher, for instance, makes different excuses in -order to avoid supplying your cook with meat, but if you went yourself, -and, with the money in your hand, you asked him to sell you a leg or -a loin of mutton, it appears to me very difficult to believe that he -would dare to refuse to give it to you.”</p> - -<p>“Will you make the experiment with me?”</p> - -<p>“I dare not ask you to do so, but really nothing would give me greater -pleasure.”</p> - -<p>We had just reached the market-place, which was surrounded with shops. -At the door of one amongst them, hung neck downwards two magnificent -half oxen; evidently this was the butcher’s. On the pavement stood -a group of beggars and vagabonds of all ages, looking with famished -eyes at all the good things displayed in front of the shop on a marble -table. Mr. Thompson drove across to that side.</p> - -<p>“Boys,” said he, stopping his horse five or six steps away from the -group, “which of you will earn sixpence by holding my horse?”</p> - -<p>An unlucky urchin of eight or ten years old at once jumped at the -reins. But he had not time to seize them before a vigorous kick reached -him in that part of his body which was not facing the horse. At the -same time a threatening voice addressed five or six words to him in -Irish; he seemed quite able to comprehend the second warning, for he at -once returned to the pavement, energetically rubbing the place where he -had received the first. No one else stirred. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span></p> - -<p>“You see, it begins well,” said Mr. Thompson in a low voice.</p> - -<p>I was becoming deeply interested. A cart stood there unharnessed. We -descended from the carriage, fastened our horse to its wheel, and -entered the shop.</p> - -<p>Quite at the back of it, to the right behind the counter, we saw a very -pretty girl of seventeen or eighteen, very elegant, with small curls -on her forehead, her well-fitting black bodice showing off her already -fully-formed figure to great advantage, a red ribbon tied like a dog’s -collar round her neck; on the whole showing a very pretty specimen of -Irish brunettes.</p> - -<p>“Good morning,” said Mr. Thompson politely. “I did not know that -Shaunganeen had the happiness of possessing such a pretty butcher; I -have never had the pleasure of seeing you before. Have you been here -long?”</p> - -<p>The young lady was evidently delighted. She smiled upon us both in the -most engaging way.</p> - -<p>“Oh, sir,” she replied, “my father, Mr. McCarthy, only took me from the -convent three days ago; my mother is unwell, and I am therefore taking -charge of the shop.”</p> - -<p>“It was a very good idea of Mr. McCarthy’s! Any one would come here -only to see you! Tell me, you have some fine legs of mutton there. Will -you sell me one?”</p> - -<p>“Why, of course, sir, they are there to be sold! Here, take this one, I -am sure it is very tender.”</p> - -<p>“Oh! the moment you recommend it I will take it at once.” I was -triumphant. Mr. Thompson looked much astonished.</p> - -<p>“Well, Miss McCarthy,” he continued, to hide his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> surprise, “you will -send it home to me before this evening, if you please.”</p> - -<p>“Certainly, sir! Will you give me your name, please, sir?”</p> - -<p>“What! don’t you know me?”</p> - -<p>“No, sir; I have only just left the convent.”</p> - -<p>“Ah, very well. I am Mr. Thompson.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, you are Mr. Thompson of —— Lodge?”</p> - -<p>“Yes, I am Mr. Thompson of —— Lodge.”</p> - -<p>The poor girl, red as a peony, looked with a terrified air at the fine -leg of mutton she kept turning in her hands, as though it were already -on the spit, to give herself courage.</p> - -<p>“The truth is, sir,” she began, almost in tears, “I cannot send it to -you, I made a mistake, I forgot that it is already sold!”</p> - -<p>“Very well,” said Mr. Thompson, “I understand,” and he immediately left -the shop.</p> - -<p>I relate the scene word for word as it happened. I could only declare -myself vanquished. Decidedly the accounts I have heard are not -exaggerated. However, Mr. Thompson declares that, at all events, so far -as he is concerned, things are improving a little. At first he could -not get his horses shod unless the Government sent him a portable forge -from the artillery. Afterwards he discovered a farrier living at L——, -several miles away. I asked myself what the shoes of horses, which had -to go many miles before they reached a forge, ought to be made of? -Under the circumstances, I would rather have had them without shoes. -But a few weeks ago another farrier, who lives only nine or ten miles -away, sent him word that he would shoe them provided the horses came to -him at night. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span></p> - -<p>“And therefore,” he continued, “Tim’s story rather surprises me, for -several times lately they have consented to supply beer for the house. -Tim says that it was refused to him to-day. Something new must have -happened.”</p> - -<p>At this moment we passed an individual adorned with long whiskers and -a moustache, who, on seeing us, immediately looked the other way, with -much affectation.</p> - -<p>“Oh,” said Mr. Thompson, “I understand it all now. I have the honour of -introducing you to our member of Parliament, the Honourable Mr. X——, -beer and spirit merchant, and naturally an outrageous Land Leaguer. -Since he attained this honour, one of his nephews keeps his shop. The -nephew is rather indifferent, we can manage him. But it appears as -though the uncle has come to see his constituents, he wishes to get -a little popularity at my expense, and poor Tim must go without his -whisky.”</p> - -<p>—— Lodge, which we reached in a few minutes, is a pretty house -situated in the middle of a fair-sized park, crossed by a river. Under -the windows of the house it forms a large piece of water covered with -water lilies, and shaded by superb trees, on which a great number of -herons were nesting, making an incredible noise. Two young girls of -sixteen and seventeen stopped their game of lawn-tennis when they saw -us, and ran to greet their brother, with whom they, were passing their -holidays. Naturally, we at once told them about the incident at the -butcher’s. The young ladies severely criticised pretty Miss McCarthy’s -conduct. But, in reality, in spite of their genuine hatred for Mr. -Parnell, it appeared to me that boycottage was not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> one of the least -attractions of their sojourn here. It entails a Swiss Family Robinson -kind of life which is full of amusing incidents.</p> - -<p>My kind host hastened to do the honours of —— Lodge. He first showed -me his farm. Since he can now only employ the men provided for him by -the Cork Union he has naturally been forced to alter his method of -culture in order to reduce the number of hands as much as possible. -This gave him the idea of trying the ensilage, which has been so much -used amongst us for many years, but which is still quite unknown in -this part of Ireland. Only he had to struggle against a difficulty -peculiar to the country. The sub-soil is so damp that at a depth of -five or six feet water is found everywhere. He was therefore obliged -to undertake considerable works before he could render his pits -water-tight. He had some idea of trying ensilage above the soil. I -should like to say a few words about this arrangement, which appeared -to me extremely curious.</p> - -<p>On the ground, side by side, were laid fifteen or twenty oak joists, -furnished at each end with a screw ring, to which an iron pulley is -attached. The hay is packed on this floor whilst it is still damp, -just as it comes from the meadow. When the pile is twenty foot high -they fix the end of a long steel cord to one of the extremities of -the first beam, the cord passes across the stack into the pulley at -the other extremity, returns to that of the second beam, and so on -across the stack. In our navy we call this a <i>passeresse</i> (a brail). -When the whole stack is thus supported they apply a wheel purchase or -a tourniquet to the end of the chain. The cord sliding through the -pulleys produces so much compression that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> the height of the stack -diminishes by one-half. This pressure, which is about 200 lbs. to the -square foot, so completely prevents the entrance of any air to the -interior, that fermentation is produced in exactly the same way as -when the hay is in a pit. The external surface is sacrificed, but by -plunging the hand in the interior, we find that below the crust, which -is only from six to eight inches in thickness, the quality of the -ensilage is quite as good as that of the pits. It seems that the whole -apparatus only costs 18<i>l.</i> I am quite determined to offer one to the -first of my farmers who asks me to rebuild his barn.</p> - -<p>After lunch Mr. Thompson again harnessed his dog-cart in order to -show me the neighbourhood. It appears that we are in the most fertile -part of Ireland. And in fact the land is very superior to any other -that I have seen at present. However, even here, agriculture has been -unremunerative for a long time. And therefore all the landowners are -endeavouring to restrict it as much as possible in order to increase -the cattle breeding, which is the only thing now likely to produce good -results. But to do this it is necessary to reduce the number of farms, -and this exasperates the population; here, in fact, as elsewhere, -fathers are quite determined to divide their farms amongst their -children, and this be it understood without the landlord’s authority. -They can, therefore, scarcely produce enough food for themselves from -the land.</p> - -<p>All great undertakings succeed. Horse-breeding produces extremely good -results. The best horses in Ireland come from here. Every moment as we -drive along the highway we see fine brood mares, which, on hearing the -carriage, rush at full speed from the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> end of the pastures to see -us pass. We went into two or three farms to look at the colts; they -were playing with the children in the yards. Mr. Thompson described a -little scene to me that he had lately witnessed. He had been to see a -filly that had been recommended to him, and that he wished to buy for -his sister.</p> - -<p>“Ah! it is a pretty creature, your honour,” said the farmer, leading -his visitor up to the animal which was lying at the foot of a tree; -“and besides, it is just the horse for a lady to hunt.”</p> - -<p>“We shall see,” replied Mr. Thompson, continuing to advance; “is she -good tempered?”</p> - -<p>“Ah, your honour, is she good tempered! She is as quiet as a lamb! My -daughter Kathleen will tell you so, they play together all day!”</p> - -<p>Kathleen, a fine handsome girl of sixteen or seventeen, who listened to -the conversation with great interest, made an affirmative gesture when -thus appealed to as a witness.</p> - -<p>“Really,” said Mr. Thompson, laughingly turning towards her; “do you -ride her?”</p> - -<p>“You shall see.”</p> - -<p>And the young girl sprang upon the mare’s back as she rose to her feet. -The frightened filly started off at a gallop. The girl standing, her -hair flying in the wind, her arms stretched out to aid her balance, -her body leaning forward, her little bare feet clinging to the filly’s -back, allowed herself to be carried round like a circus rider. She -remained there during three or four rounds, and then feeling herself -about to fall, she sprang lightly to the ground and returned laughing -to her father quite proud of her freak. What a pretty subject for a -picture! </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span></p> - -<p>Amongst us, every where, except in Normandy and in a few country houses -in other parts of France, the stable arrangements are deplorable. Here, -on the contrary, even in the most miserable farms that we visited, -they are wonderfully complete for securing the well-being of the -horses. Loose boxes are very general. The use of straw as litter would -be very difficult and very dear, since we may say that scarcely any -wheat is grown; it is always replaced by a mossy turf, which is first -thoroughly dried and is then reduced to powder by the stamping of the -horses. This litter appears excellent in every respect. It forms very -soft standing for the feet, and a good bed; there is no dust, and -cleanliness is secured by a simple stroke of the rake. Besides, the -turf once reduced to a pulverised state is so absorbent that one cannot -detect the faintest smell. I noticed that the other night at Sir Croker -Barrington’s, and I have been struck with it again to-day when visiting -a stallion’s stable. One thing appears very singular to me; I am told -that all the turf used is imported from Germany, being found superior -to anything in this country for the purpose. The loss is so little that -in spite of the money spent in carriage the expenses are very small. -There are many places in France where turf is most abundant, but I have -never yet seen any used in this way in our own country.</p> - -<p>In the villages and on the roads we continually pass long lines of -horses fastened one behind the other and led by a man who rides the -leader. They are returning from the fair at Cahirmee which ended -to-day; it is the most important in the south of Ireland. The farmers -tell us that they saw seven or eight French dealers there. They -ought to have done a good business, for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> the sales were bad, only -weight-carrying hunters fetched a good price. A stout priest passed -in his cassock, his legs encased in black leggings, mounted on a good -cob, and complacently eyeing a superb filly which a ragged urchin was -leading in front of him. He was pointed out to us as the victor of the -day. His filly won the first prize at the show. He refused 250<i>l.</i> for -her.</p> - -<p>These prices are quite exceptional. However, I think that this crisis -is less felt here than with us. Horses were shown to me that had been -sold for 90<i>l.</i> or 100<i>l.</i> which would certainly not have fetched the -same money at the last fair at Guibray; but on an average the carriage -horses are not at all better than those we see in the Normandy markets. -On the other hand, saddle horses are certainly superior and are yet -sold very cheaply. Mr. Thompson took me to see a lady, who showed -us a very handsome little mare, five years old, a wonderful jumper, -beautifully groomed, which had been just brought back from the fair -unsold, although only 45<i>l.</i> were asked for her. How small the world -is! We entered the lady’s house quite accidentally, and after five -minutes’ conversation we discovered that we had already met twenty -years before, when she was quite a little girl and I was a middy. Our -meeting had taken place at Siam.</p> - -<p>Every one confirms what I already suspected, that horse-breeding is -in its decadence here as well as in England. Formerly the English -were greatly in advance of us in rearing carriage horses. Now they -have nothing equal to our Anglo-Norman horse, and of this I have just -received a most convincing proof. The Americans are now endeavouring -to create a race of carriage horses in their country, that are to be -elegant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> and yet a little taller and stouter than their present breeds. -They come to Caen to purchase their studs. A train of thirty-five was -sent over from there quite recently. If they had formed the same wish -thirty or forty years ago, they would not for one instant have dreamed -of seeking the horses they required from us. Why have we remained -behind England for so long? In order to have good horses we must -have good pastures, a good climate, and above all the assurance of a -remunerative sale. Now, our pasturage is quite equal to theirs, and our -climate is infinitely better; if then our breeders could not compete -with theirs it is only because they did not obtain a sufficiently -high price for their productions. I have a very clever friend with -whom I have often talked over this subject, and who clearly explains -why English horse raising is so much more flourishing than our own. -He asserts that we have no reason to blush for this retrospective -inferiority, and that, on the contrary, we may feel proud of it, for -it proceeded from a purely moral cause. The superiority of English -horse-breeding was, according to him, entirely due to the extraordinary -way in which the English manage their love affairs. Every one knows -that, during the whole of the last and even during the early part -of the present century, English ladies were extremely frivolous. -In France, when a marquise selected a lover, it never occurred to -them that it was necessary to scour the high roads together in order -to assure each other of their affection. On the contrary, when an -Englishwoman felt that she could not offer a prolonged resistance to -some gallant colonel, she did not throw herself into his arms, but -into a post-chaise drawn by the four best horses money<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> would procure -in the neighbourhood. Custom exacted that, as soon as the husband had -discovered to which point of the compass his guilty wife and her lover -had fled, he should also procure four horses, equally good, for their -pursuit; and thus as the mischievous little god, who is so sedentary -with us, only appeared in English homes with the attributes of a -postilion, one sees at a glance the connection between these strange -customs and the production of light carriage horses. Lovers are always -liberal, and if those who followed them wished for any chance of -stopping their flight, they were obliged to equal them in that respect. -Post-masters who had the reputation of owning excellent horses made -their fortunes at once. Lovers came even from a distance to elope from -their neighbourhood. Competition intervened, and they became willing to -pay any price for a pair of horses which could secure a large custom. -Moralists should deplore these things; horse-breeders can only regret -them. If the Norfolk trotters acquired such high reputations, was it -because the ladies of that county lamentably compromised their own?</p> - -<p>All this ceased with the accession of Queen Victoria. England became -virtuous. No woman dared to elope, for she knew she would not be -received at Court afterwards; the postilions became stout, the old -trotters became broken-winded and were not replaced; the breeders, -reduced like their colleagues in France to the custom of the public -coaches, soon discovered that they could not afford to make the same -sacrifices as before, and their productions degenerated. Have they -any chance of seeing their ancient prosperity restored? It is very -improbable. With advancing years her majesty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> has ceased to watch -over the English ladies so carefully, and it is said that their moral -standard is considerably lower. If we may believe some recent law -reports, they can enter into elopements with as much spirit as their -grandmothers. But they no longer have recourse to a post-chaise, -and this return to ancient custom can now benefit only railways and -steamers. This is my learned friend’s theory. I have tried my best -to explain it in the interest of science. But I leave him all the -responsibility of it and all the honour.</p> - -<p>Mr. Thompson exaggerated greatly when he spoke to me of the privations -I should be obliged to submit to when sharing the life of a boycotted -landlord. In default of the leg of mutton which he had been forced -to leave in Miss McCarthy’s rather red hands, rabbits from the park, -poultry from the yard, and vegetables from the garden, furnished -materials for a dinner that an old <i>cordon bleu</i>, who had remained -faithful to his master even in boycottage, rendered excellent. I -said the other day when speaking of the manner in which Irishwomen -prepare their husbands’ meals, that I believed they have little taste -for cooking; I perhaps spoke rather too hastily. Their taste is not -sufficiently developed, but it exists. This is another good side to -the national character; I even think that if the nations were to be -arranged in the order of their culinary aptitudes, the Irish would -take a very honourable rank. Professors affirm that it is to them we -owe that excellent combination our fathers appreciated under the name -of haricot mutton, and that ignorant practitioners of our epoch call -<i>navarin</i>. It seems that from the earliest ages this dish has been -known in Ireland as Irish stew. According to the same authorities, the -recipe was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> brought to St. Germain by King James’s cooks, who took -refuge in France with their master after the disaster of the Boyne; -and that by diffusing it amongst us they acknowledged our country’s -hospitality. If this be true, here is a new instance of the consoling -truth, that a kind action is never lost.</p> - -<p>Perhaps, however, to be absolutely impartial we should temper this -praise by some criticism. Irishmen are volatile and little observant. -These faults, which injure their politics, have also a regrettable -influence over their cooking. Thus the affinities, secret, yet -so close, between a duck and turnips seems to have escaped their -notice. During my sojourn in Ireland I was able to prove that the -country produces numbers of excellent ducks, and an abundance of most -succulent turnips. But the palmipede always appeared separated from the -vegetable, and I never was lucky enough to find united on the same dish -these two elements, although, when combined, nature has rendered them -so rich in gastronomic delights.</p> - -<p>An organisation so powerful and complicated as the Land League -necessarily appears under very different aspects when one studies it -in the different centres where it works. At Dublin I saw some of the -men who composed the managing body, and they spoke to me about the -general direction of the movement. At Kenmare I found it weakened by -a combination of circumstances which contributed, if not to paralyse -it, at least to prevent it from pushing things to extremities. With -Lord Cloncurry and in the neighbourhood of Ballinacourty the situation -was more strained already. There the League found favourable soil, its -evolution was able to pass through each of its successive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> phases; I am -now, at this moment, in a fully boycotted county. I wished to ascertain -the state of feeling amongst a population subject to such a rule, and -particularly that of the secondary personages who are charged with -carrying out the instructions of the directing committee. Mr. Thompson -gave me every facility for this work, by this evening confiding to -me as I was leaving him, a thick bundle of documents relative to his -boycottage—a bundle which he wished to carry to my room himself, for -he was unwilling I should ascend the staircase alone. And, indeed, -this staircase is an interesting monument. Four years ago it was being -repaired, the workmen had taken off the balustrade on the very day the -boycotting was declared. From that time it has been impossible to get -it replaced!</p> - -<p>It would be very difficult to deny that the movement is Socialistic, -if not in its end, at least by the means it employs for its success. -Evidently the principal leaders have deliberately made up their minds. -But the others, do they know what they are doing? I do not believe so, -for here is an extract from a speech pronounced at the great meeting -which I alluded to above, the one that assembled when Mr. Thompson sent -to the Cork Union to get his grass mown.</p> - -<p>“What the Land League requires,” said the orator, “is to succeed in -making the State dispossess the landlords in consideration of a fair -indemnity, in order that afterwards the State may give the land to -the tenants, making them repay the advances and the interest by means -of successive annuities. Some people say that acting in this way is -Socialism, but the Irish protest against such accusations. If we were -Socialists,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> we should agree with Gambetta, that faithless man who -spoke against us, when, throughout Europe, we had only friends. We -should agree with the Parisian communists! those wretches who know -neither justice nor virtue, who dyed their hands with the blood of an -archbishop! (prolonged groans!) who were not ashamed to destroy the -monument erected to celebrate their fathers’ victories! We have no -more sympathy for them than they have for us! (Immense acclamations.) -No! we are not Socialists because we demand the dispossession of the -landlords! If this idea were Socialistic, it would not be approved of -by the newspaper published under the shadow of the Vatican.”</p> - -<p>The speaker was Father McCarthy, the parish priest of a neighbouring -village; but now here are the expressions of one of his colleagues, -Father Sheehy:—</p> - -<p>“Have not all these people, the Thompsons, the X——s, retained all the -best land of the country for already too long a time, my friends? And -what is left for all of you?—the right to go and die of hunger in the -workhouse.</p> - -<p>“The office in which Mr. Thompson receives his slaves resembles a -prison.</p> - -<p>“He speaks to his tenants through his office-wicket, for he is a coward -who has not courage to look them in the face.”</p> - -<p>Now it is Mr. W. H. O’Sullivan’s turn. Mr. O’Sullivan is the -spirit-dealer, the member of Parliament whom we met to-day.</p> - -<p>“I am going to read you some clauses from the lease they are trying to -impose upon some of the tenants in the neighbourhood. This is a very -interesting document, judge for yourselves: </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span></p> - -<p>“First, it is stipulated that the tenant cannot plough either of -his fields without the landlord’s written permission. (Groans.) It -then says that each year the farmer must lay down in grass a certain -portion of the land which is given him in plough. (Violent groans.) The -next clause forbids the tenant to sell his straw or hay. Everything -should be consumed on the farm. (Explosion of murmurs.) Then come the -following items [bonds]:—The tenant must preserve all the buildings -given to him in their present condition, he is forbidden to let any of -the outbuildings as dwelling-houses; he must keep and give them up in -good repair; lastly, the taxes are all to be paid by him.” (Prolonged -murmurs, cries, and howls.)</p> - -<p>Oh! French landowners, unlucky brethren! Who amongst you, on consulting -his lease, will not find, one after the other, all these clauses? When -you discuss them with your tenants, does conscience warn you that you -are committing an infamous act? I am a little reassured on the point, -because for the last three or four years, the Government, which is the -very essence of morality, since it is Republican, sends us every summer -agricultural professors, who recommend us to transform all our lands -into meadows.</p> - -<p>After the meeting, Fathers McCarthy and McSheehy probably went home -with Mr. O’Sullivan, and, whilst taking a glass of something on this -honourable merchant’s counter, the three orators mutually congratulated -themselves on their success. They had reason to do so in some respects. -As rhetorical amplifications their speeches were pretty good. Only -when they assert that they have nothing in common with the Socialists, -is it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> wise to tell two or three thousand peasants, all more or less -doing badly in money matters, that their poverty is the result of Mr. -Thompson and others detaining for such a long time the land that ought -to be given to them?</p> - -<p>I have only to continue reading the bundle to ascertain the effect -produced. The newspaper cuttings are arranged in chronological order; -unfortunately, they are not all dated. I cannot, therefore, give the -dates quite precisely, but evidently very little time had elapsed -between this meeting and the facts stated here.</p> - -<p>This is what first happened at New Pallas. There is a farm about half a -mile from the railway station, from which a man named Bourke had been -sent away. The landlord could not find a new tenant; but since, every -night, men ravaged his land, he demanded protection from the police. -The authorities decided that they would erect a block-house, plated -with sheet-iron, in which they could place a permanent garrison of five -constables. The farm buildings were not sufficiently strong for their -security.</p> - -<p>The sheet-iron arrived at the station, but it was impossible to get -it carried to the farm; no one in the country would undertake to do -it. It was decided to obtain an artillery waggon from Dublin, and -the accounts which reached the authorities denoted so much popular -excitement that it appeared necessary to send an escort also. Half a -battery of artillery started for the estate; a squadron of the 7th -Hussars, one hundred and fifty men of the 9th Foot, and a detachment of -constables, brought the effective total to five hundred men. They all -met at the station after a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> convergent movement, which did great credit -to the military skill of the chief of the expedition, and succeeded -in transporting an iron hut, that filled one cart, five-eighths of a -mile! The Government newspapers loudly congratulated themselves on the -success of the operation.</p> - -<p>During this time a permanent garrison was established at Mr. -Thompson’s. It at first consisted of seventy-five men, but after -some time the numbers were reduced. They were not too much bored, -for they had plenty to do. Every morning, four men and one corporal, -all well armed, were ordered on duty to escort the milkmaid when she -went to milk the cows. The detachment which proceeded to the station -for letters and parcels, was commanded by a sergeant, and flanked the -whole way. It was exactly like a besieged town. Still, the Land League -sentinels never left the gate, and on their side watched with the -greatest vigilance. Nevertheless, once or twice the blockade was run. A -reporter of the <i>Daily News</i>, who came expressly from England to keep -the readers of his paper well informed about the operations of the -siege, thus describes it:—</p> - -<p>“<i>December 25th, Christmas Day.</i>—Yesterday evening, great excitement. -Darkness had fallen upon us, when the dogs commenced to bark, and -suddenly we saw a woman mysteriously issue from a clump of trees and -approach the door, marching so softly that one might have fancied her -a ghost! She carried hidden beneath her shawl an enormous Christmas -cake, still hot, which a kind neighbour had sent us, but, naturally, I -must not mention his name. We had obtained this windfall through his -noticing, as he passed the gate, that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> sentinels’ watch was not -nearly so keen as usual thanks, probably, to the numerous libations -they had indulged in whilst celebrating the festival. He at once took -advantage of the fact to entrust this brave little woman with the -commission she so skilfully executed. I hope she was not seen during -her retreat, for neither she nor her husband would then be able to -remain in the country.”</p> - -<p>It was on Christmas Day, 1880, that the <i>Daily News</i> reporter wrote -this letter. From the 13th July, 1886 the Land League has ceased -placing sentinels at Mr. Thompson’s gate, but the boycotting is still -strong enough to prevent Miss McCarthy from selling him a leg of -mutton. There is an improvement, but the improvement progresses very -slowly.</p> - -<p>I do not only find newspaper cuttings in the bundle. It also contains a -file of letters; they are all signed “Captain Moonlight.” But this is -a generic name, for the letters evidently come from different people. -The Irish revolutionists are not revolutionists like ours. With us -every generation insists on working in its own way. In Ireland, on the -contrary, they are careful to conform exactly to the old customs. The -stock-in-trade of accessories of every conspiracy that respects itself -still includes the mask, the dagger, and the blunderbuss which are -completely out of fashion amongst us since the time of the <i>Carbonari</i> -of the Restoration. Anonymous letters are one of their dearest -traditions. Landowners are continually receiving them. They invariably -enumerate the different measures which will be adopted to hasten the -unfortunate recipient’s departure from this life. It is imperative that -a little explanatory<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> drawing should accompany the text, because they -must guard against the possibility of the victim being illiterate. This -necessity, imposed by custom, is evidently embarrassing even to the -conspirators. It is a stumbling-block to those Captains “Moonlight” who -have no talent for drawing. One of Mr. Thompson’s correspondents had, -however, found an ingenious method of evading the difficulty. Here is a -description of one of these documents. I am looking at it while I write:</p> - -<p>At the head of the sheet of paper there is a drawing belonging to that -<i>naïve</i> school which amongst us is especially reserved for illustrating -Latin dictionaries with <i>pierrot pendu</i> (hanging clowns). However, we -can easily distinguish that the first drawing represents a gun, with -its bayonet. But below there is a combination of strokes and blots -which it is absolutely impossible to make anything of. Happily the -artist, obeying a sentiment of praiseworthy modesty, and understanding -the deficiency of his talent, has put an explanatory note at the side -of each vignette. By the side of the first there is in parentheses -“gun;” at the right of the second, “bombshell.” The text at least, in -default of other merit, had that of conciseness. It only consisted of -two lines—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>“Beware of the above, lads!</div> -<div>Ireland for the Irish!”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>The author was probably proud of his work. However, we must own -that the general effect would be better if the drawings were more -intelligible. If I had the honour of being admitted into the councils -of the Land<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> League I should suggest that instead of relying upon the -artistic sense of inferior agents, they should distribute amongst -them papers already engraved with pictures of coffins, cross-bones, -guns, gibbets, and bombshells, since they appear to be the necessary -accessories of a style of literature from which the League evidently -expects great results, since it encourages it so much.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - -<p class="center">CONCLUSION.</p> - -<p>Here I must end these extracts from my travelling diary. Of what use -could it be to continue noting day by day all that I saw in Ireland? -Besides, the inquiry, summary as it is, to which I devoted myself, has -left me with an impression of profound melancholy. Every one knows the -traps in which one sees the captive mice beating against the wire that -ornaments one of the extremities, and in their desperate efforts to -obtain their freedom they thrust and wound themselves against the bars -of their cage. On this side they see the light; here they fancy they -have the best chance of escape. They can never succeed, for the door -lies exactly at the other end.</p> - -<p>The poor Irish—so interesting, so sympathetic—are a little like them. -They, too, are exhausting their strength in despairing efforts to -escape from a misery that is only too real; but for them, too, the way -out is not on the side where they are seeking it.</p> - -<p>When we see, on one hand, the great fermentation going on in the lower -classes of the population, and, on the other, the Government utterly -incapable of restoring<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> order, one is tempted to believe that a bloody -revolution is about to break out. This seems to be the only logical -solution which the situation admits of. Evidently, so they say, the -heads of this powerful organisation which binds the whole country, wish -to break out; they form their lists and keep their followers in working -order. The daily skirmishes which one hears perpetually discussed can -have but that end; they keep the hand in whilst waiting for action. -As soon as a favourable opportunity offers, they will call the whole -population of five million souls to arms; they are only waiting for the -signal. An immense popular uprising will take place immediately, and if -the English rule is to be re-established in the country, it will only -be after a long and bloody war.</p> - -<p>This reasoning appears well founded, because in Greece, in Poland, and -everywhere that a conquering people have been unable to assimilate with -the conquered, the same results have always followed. I am, however, -quite convinced that it is absolutely false as regards Ireland. In -every son of Erin there is the making of a conspirator. At all times -conspiracy has been an element where they have been as much at their -ease as fish in water. But amongst them a conspirator finds great -difficulty in transforming himself into a rebel. Why is this? I cannot -tell. It is certainly not for want of courage. As soldiers, the Irish -have no need to prove their abilities. And yet we have only to consult -their national history to perceive that of all the rebellions they -have attempted not one has been serious. Towards the end of the last -century, when Brittany and Vendée rose against the Republic, they -had no resources of any kind, and they had to deal with a military -power<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> that had routed all the armies in Europe. Six months later they -placed 80,000 men in the field, who, at first armed with sticks, used -them with such effect that at the end of a few days they were all -armed with guns taken from their enemies. For some years they held in -check all the forces that were sent against them. Towards the same -date the Irish made several attempts at insurrection. One of them was -even aided by a detachment of French troops being landed. The English -sent very insignificant troops to oppose them. Yet after a few days -they had overcome the insurgents without the latter being able to -form a military force capable of resisting one battalion of infantry -in the open field. If the Irish showed themselves so powerless when -circumstances were all in their favour, what chance of success have -they now?</p> - -<p>But in order that a nation should throw itself headlong into a -rebellion of this kind, it must have a definite object in view. Greece -and Poland were determined to regain their independence, and knew what -they would do with this independence if they succeeded in winning -it. Now, unfortunately, it is very different with the Irish. Their -political men are quite aware of the facts of the case. Independent -Ireland is an impossibility.</p> - -<p>First of all, whilst England possesses a soldier or a crown she will -never consent to the separation. It is a question of life or death for -her. Imagine a war with France and Ireland allied, what would become of -her?</p> - -<p>But there is another reason, and this is an economic one, why the Irish -themselves will never push matters to extremities. They know perfectly -well that the day after their independence was acknowledged, they must<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> -either conquer England or else throw themselves upon her mercy. How -could they support a separate State? They would require money to live -with, and this money can only be found by selling their produce. Now -if the English can buy the cattle, pigs and butter they require from -all parts of the globe, the Irish themselves can only sell the cattle, -pigs, and butter, which are their sole produce, in England; for they -could hardly aspire to sending their pigs to Chicago or their butter to -Isigny. They would be absolutely at England’s mercy.</p> - -<p>As long therefore as they cannot transport their country some hundred -miles further west, the Irish must be content and resign themselves to -the fact that Ireland can only be an appendage to England. Equality -between the two countries cannot exist. If the Irish succeeded in -conquering England the seat of government might be at Dublin; the -greater part of the taxes paid by the English would be spent there, -in the same way that a large portion of Irish taxes are now spent -in London. But until they feel strong enough to bring this great -enterprise to a successful issue, they must bear their share of a -situation which, after all, is not worse than that of the inhabitants -of Bordeaux or Dijon, whose taxes are in a great measure spent in Paris.</p> - -<p>It may be objected that without going as far as actual separation, -which, in fact, no one asks for, because it is manifestly out of -the question, they may ask, as Mr. Gladstone does, for a relative -separation.</p> - -<p>I have already stated at some length and several times in the course -of this work, the reasons which lead me to believe that even with this -amelioration a separation would be disastrous for Ireland; it would -result in all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> capital being withdrawn from Ireland, for it is now -almost exclusively in English hands.</p> - -<p>In my opinion Mr. Gladstone has been very wrong in encouraging the -Irish to persevere in this absolutely false idea, that all their -misfortunes are due to political causes, whilst in reality the terrible -crisis they are passing through is only a result of the economic -evolution which is taking place all over the world.</p> - -<p>The burning question in this country which dominates every other is the -question of land ownership. Ireland is a country of small cultivators. -Let us first examine the question on the theoretical side.</p> - -<p>Originally in all societies the land belonged to whoever would -cultivate and enclose it; since it had no value no one enclosed more -than he could cultivate himself, that is, very little, for their -implements were very primitive. Small estates were therefore formed -by the mere force of circumstances. In some countries, in France -for instance, at least in a considerable portion of the territory, -small estates have been preserved to the present time. This is very -fortunate, for, from a social point of view, it is the most perfect -system, and wherever it is possible to uphold it by law no hesitation -should be shown about doing so.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately from an economic point of view the system is utterly -condemned. Agriculture is an industry like any other—one is always -obliged to repeat this fact, because when one alludes to it this -evident truth always seems forgotten. Now, in the present day, all -industries are concentrated. Factories diminish in number but increase -in importance. Those who cannot or will not submit to this necessity, -disappear. A farm is a factory of meat and corn. Now, if all other -things were equal, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> large farm would always produce more economically -than a small one, because, as a rule, its expenses are less, and it has -a more perfect apparatus for doing the necessary work. The smaller ones -must therefore disappear.</p> - -<p>And they are disappearing everywhere, even amongst us. In my opinion -this is not even doubtful. The other day M. Yves Guyot asserted it in -the Chamber of Deputies. He was right; property in France is becoming -concentrated; we have but to look round us to be convinced of the fact. -I may be answered that according to the returns of the tax-collectors -the number of properties does not seem to be decreasing. This argument -is not worth anything. How many landowners are there possessing -property in fifteen or twenty communes? How many are there who, having -by degrees bought ten or twelve lots in the same commune, ever gave -themselves the trouble of uniting them in one return? The truth is that -in all agricultural countries the peasants have ceased to buy land, and -they are selling it wherever they find a great landowner willing to buy -it. I, of course, except the vine districts from this statement.</p> - -<p>The same phenomenon is noticeable in America, and still more -conspicuously. The Government does everything in its power to form and -maintain small properties; it distributes land to the emigrants by lots -of 160 acres, forbidding them to sell it under five years. As soon as -the five years are over the emigrants hasten to sell their lands, which -are never seriously cultivated until twenty or forty lots are united in -the same hands. Every American economist observes this tendency; it is -universal. Wherever the laws do not intervene large estates are rapidly -absorbing the smaller ones, because<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> the small ones cannot compete -with the large, and if the laws intervene they are only efficacious -in diminishing production. Except in a few privileged countries small -farms must therefore disappear. Can Ireland boast of being one of -the fortunate exceptions? Most evidently not! Then why create small -farms in Ireland? or rather, since they already exist with all their -drawbacks, why endeavour to maintain them by founding small estates, -as the Land League is trying to do? It is aiming at impossibilities, -for they can only succeed by destroying steamers, railways, and -agricultural machinery all over the world.</p> - -<p>We will now resume the discussion at the point where we left it. I -said that only two systems of agriculture are known—the small and -the great. Facility of transport and the perfection we have reached -in agricultural tools have rendered small cultivation impossible -nearly everywhere. Only the great remains. Let us now see under what -conditions it is working. It requires great capital; besides, it -evidently, like every other industry, has more chance of success when -it is directed by competent men. Now the most competent men not being -always those who have the most capital, the countries where agriculture -would flourish best would be those, of course if all other things -were equal, where a combination had been discovered which placed -large capital at the disposal of the most competent men—those, to -use a modern expression, where agricultural credit would be the best -organised.</p> - -<p>This question has attracted great attention. It is very difficult to -solve, because no combination can be discovered which ensures that -the capital directed into agricultural channels would find sufficient -securities and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> interest. But the real reason is that agriculture is -already burdened with a first mortgage, for from time immemorial it -has had recourse to credit, and if it has been able to struggle on -until these latter times in spite of all the charges which crush it in -countries belonging to the old civilisation, it is because there is an -institution which has provided it with capital in such abundance and -at such low rates of interest, that naturally no other organisation -of agricultural credit can live by making needless repetition of its -arrangements; this institution is rent. If it has so many detractors in -the present day, it is because the people believe it to be of feudal -origin, and above all because they do not consider the conditions under -which it is working, nor the fate of agriculturists in countries where -renting land is little or never practised.</p> - -<p>Some weeks ago I was in a smoking compartment of the express train -which goes from Chicago to New York. It was just at the time when -Mr. Henry George, the celebrated Socialist, had offered himself as -candidate for the New York mayoralty. The news had produced a great -impression all over the United States. Mr. George, has, in fact, used -his talent as a writer, which is really very great, for the diffusion -of the most advanced opinions. He considers that since the soil has no -value except through the labour that is spent upon it all the fruit of -the soil should return to the labourer, the rent of the land, if there -is one, being acquired as a right from the State. His system therefore -leads to the absolute suppression of landed property, since the owner -would soon tire of being only cashier to the State.</p> - -<p>One of our travelling companions, a barrister from Minneapolis, -commenced to talk. From his first words<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> it was easy to see that we -were listening to an ardent partisan of Mr. George’s doctrines.</p> - -<p>“Gentlemen,” said he, as he ended a long speech intended to celebrate -the advantages of Socialism, “you know how all European nations are -now situated. In England, in a great part of France, and particularly -in Ireland, unfortunate wretches work like slaves to win harvests from -the earth, harvests of which they are only allowed to retain just the -amount absolutely necessary to keep them from dying of starvation, all -the rest goes to maintain in idleness people who have only had the -trouble of being born. It is private estates that have caused it all. -It is because the earth, the common property of all mankind, has been -unjustly monopolised by a few, that these infamous things have taken -place. You will tell me that these things are only seen in Europe -amongst nations of backward civilisation, but these private estates -also exist amongst us, and if we do not guard against it we shall also -feel the fatal consequences of the system here. Our agriculturists are -already in the hands of capitalists, who will now only advance them -money at fabulous interest.”</p> - -<p>I had just finished my cigar, and thought that a discussion with the -good man might be amusing.</p> - -<p>“Excuse me,” I commenced, interrupting him, “in which State do you live -then?”</p> - -<p>“In Minnesota. But what is taking place in Minnesota is taking place in -the other States too.”</p> - -<p>“And what interest did you say agriculturists are obliged to pay for -loans in these districts?”</p> - -<p>“At one and a-half at least, and generally at two, and even at three, -per cent per month.” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Quite right! I know that. Now that wheat is only worth fifty cents the -bushel the farmers make no profits; the capitalists feeling their money -is in danger will no longer lend without high interest; but then, why -do the farmers require money?”</p> - -<p>“To build their houses, to drain, irrigate and plant, in fact, to put -the land into order that the State gives them.”</p> - -<p>“That is exactly what I wished to make you say. The State gives the -land gratis: it is inalienable. Besides, in its present condition it is -valueless. Then what security has the capitalist? In our country, land -is not given gratuitously; but there are people who take, or who have -taken, the trouble to drain it, to make fences, to build outhouses, -and who then, not having the necessary aptitude for cultivating it, -put the whole property into the hands of a professional farmer, on -condition of receiving a very moderate rent in proportion to the -amount of capital tied up in it. Mr. George pretends that it is the -land that the landlord lets to his farmer. This is absolutely false. -Suppose an earthquake or some other cataclysm destroyed one of our old -French farms, demolished the buildings, effaced every trace of fence, -plantation, farm roads, and drainage—forced the land, in fact, to -return again to the state it was in two thousand years ago, in the time -of the Druids, or to the condition of the land given gratuitously by -your State to the emigrants in this country—I assert that to efface -all the results of this disaster, such large sums must be spent that -whatever rent might be asked for, even under the most favourable -circumstances, that rent would only produce a nominal interest on the -capital. It is then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> not the soil that I let, but the result of the -work and the capital that I and my predecessors have expended. I am in -exactly the same position as the capitalist in Minnesota. I advance -money to a professional farmer to enable him to earn his living by -cultivating the land; only since I am owner of the land the farmer -cannot carry off my security; I have, therefore, a good guarantee, I -can be satisfied with a very small interest, which I could not be if I -lived in Minnesota.</p> - -<p>“One thing is certain, that owing to this association between -capitalist and cultivator, which is called tenant farming, a farmer -amongst us can retain as floating capital all his available money, on -which he can make eight or ten per cent., whilst he only pays three -or four per cent., and often less, for the sum, usually much greater, -that the landlord places at his disposal in the form of buildings -and fittings up of every kind. With our system, a labourer therefore -obtains money at three per cent. per annum, with yours, they must pay -three per cent. per month. And you think that we are the backward -nation! Allow me, dear sir, to return the compliment.”</p> - -<p>I never saw faces more astonished than those of fifteen or twenty -Yankees who listened to me, seated in arm-chairs, their feet in the -air. Then happened one of those incidents that appear so odd, and -which, however, are so common now that every one travels. A young man, -whom I had not noticed, approached me from the end of the compartment.</p> - -<p>“Sir,” he said, “for the last few minutes I seem to recognise you. Did -you not speak in public last year at Tergnier upon the subject you have -just been explaining?” </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“I thought so. I was there. I am Irish; I had just finished my studies -at Juilly, and I had been passing my holidays with the father of one -of my comrades, who was a farmer in the neighbourhood. Now I live with -my father, who is an architect at Saint Paul, Minnesota. It therefore -happens that I am well acquainted with the situation in both the -countries we are discussing, and allow me to say that I am certain you -are perfectly right.”</p> - -<p>The young man’s intervention secured a complete triumph for me. I was -particularly pleased, because Mr. George’s partisan himself at once -said, in the most pleasant way:</p> - -<p>“Well, stranger, I own I never thought of looking at the question from -that point of view. I don’t own myself beaten yet, but I’m shaken.”</p> - -<p>In justice to the Americans, I must own that they always display the -most perfect courtesy and good faith in these discussions.</p> - -<p>I am convinced that the thesis I maintain is perfectly correct. If -European agriculture, crushed with taxes and burdens of all kinds, -has been able to struggle for so long against the competition of new -countries, it is simply owing to the abundance of capital placed at its -service by the system of renting the land. Particularly now that the -struggle, if it is possible at all, is only possible through the aid -of large sums of money, it is the worst of follies to believe that in -breaking the tie that binds the capitalist and the farmer so closely -together, they can ameliorate the situation. This is true of Ireland -more than of anywhere else.</p> - -<p>This, however, is the aim that the National League<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> proposes to itself. -The most curious thing is that, in the end, their success will, in -reality, only benefit the landlords.</p> - -<p>What, in fact, is now passing all over Europe? Land has lost nearly all -its value. The future is so dark that in France, as everywhere else, -one cannot find one landowner in a hundred who would not be too happy, -if not to sell all that he possesses, at least to ease his position in -a great degree, if he could obtain a reasonable price for his land. -And this is the time that the League chooses to propose dispossessing -the landlords by giving them sums of money equal to their actual -income, multiplied at least by fourteen, at most by twenty. How can -they procure the necessary money for such an operation, that is to say, -several milliards? By borrowing. If the Irish Budget is completely -distinct from that of the metropolis, and consequently the moneylenders -know that they cannot rely upon England’s guarantee, I doubt whether -they will display much eagerness. However, let us admit that this -immense undertaking may succeed. What would be the result?</p> - -<p>The fifteen or twenty thousand present landowners, of whom a great -number are, until now, only retained in the country through the -difficulty of leaving it, would hasten to emigrate at once; they -would, therefore, no longer pay one penny of the old taxes, nor of -the new taxes, which the Government would be forced to raise to meet -the interest of the loan. From landowners, they would have all become -fund-holders; instead of having the trouble of collecting rents that -are very irregularly paid, they would be relieved by the State—which -would simply have substituted itself for them—from all these expenses -and all this annoyance. </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span></p> - -<p>The operation would certainly be most advantageous to them. But, I -ask myself, what would the farmer gain when he was obliged to pay -the tax-gatherer probably more than he now pays the agent? If one -could foresee, in the near future, a great increase in the produce of -the earth, one could understand their desire to become landowners, -because they would benefit by this increase, whilst with the present -arrangement it would be promptly followed by a rise in the rents. But, -on the contrary, everything indicates that the depreciation in the -price of land is far from having reached its lowest point.</p> - -<p>They have therefore, in my opinion, everything to gain by remaining -tenant farmers. Now, is it true that they have as much reason to -complain of their landlords as they pretend? On that subject, too, I -think there is a good deal to be said. Let us proceed as we have done -before, and first examine the question from a theoretical point of view.</p> - -<p>When we examine these things closely, we find that tenant farming has -existed from the most distant times. It was the first application of -the fertile principle of the division of labour. Some worked, whilst -others fought to protect them. Formerly, the landowners were called -lords, or seigneurs, and the farmers vassals; but, in reality, it was -always an association between capital and labour with a view to the -cultivation of the land. Only the difference of customs at that date -caused the mutual obligations imposed upon each party to be much more -numerous than they are now. For instance, the lord not only provided -the land and the buildings, he was also forced to promise to provide -as far as possible the security, without which the vassal’s enjoyment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> -of them would only be illusory. On the other hand, the vassal, besides -his dues, also promised his personal service. A farmer therefore gained -some advantage by taking lands in a seigneurie where they were dearly -let, but where he hoped to dwell in more security than elsewhere. But, -as compensation, the lord of the manor must often have consented to -great diminutions in favour of a tenant who seemed likely to render, -when required, good service as a soldier.</p> - -<p>With the exception of a few trifling differences, the same arrangements -were made all over Europe, in Ireland as elsewhere. When an Irish -lord started for the crusades, or simply to make war upon one of -his neighbours, he selected those of his vassals whom he wished to -accompany him. If one of them refused, I fancy that no time was lost -before “evicting,” if not before hanging him; and, according to the -ideas of the period, he only received what he merited, since he had -failed in one of the obligations imposed upon him by his lease. Customs -have changed. Certain obligations, necessitated by the social state -which then existed, have now ceased to be requisite. A landlord no -longer guarantees his tenants personal safety. The police are charged -with the duty. And in the same way a young Irish captain, whose -regiment was ordered, three or four years ago, to go and fight Arabi -Pasha, never thought of asking his tenants to reinforce his company -if the effective total were incomplete. He contented himself with -sending a recruiting sergeant to seek for the men he required in the -neighbouring taverns, and he would most probably have even given him a -smart reprimand had he enlisted one of his tenants’ sons. The farmers -then owe absolutely nothing to their landlords<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> except the obligations -which are freely discussed between them when the lease is signed, and -very clearly stated in its clauses. They are so perfectly aware of -their independence that they treat as tyrants those landlords who, at -election times, claim to nominate a candidate whose opinions do not -please them.</p> - -<p>Would they like to return to the old customs? Evidently not. They wish -that to be an impossibility. Then, if landlords and tenants no longer -have, and never can have again, in strict law, any connection between -them except that which, in all business, links the buyer and seller, -what do these recriminations against the landlords, that now form the -foundation of Irish literature, mean? The sole duty of a buyer is to -be honest about the quality of the merchandise he offers for sale. -Can a Kerry farmer pretend that where he leases seventy-five acres of -peaty meadow, he expects to reap a harvest of pineapples? The truth -is, that he knows the land quite as well as the landlord, perhaps even -better. If he pays too much for it he can only blame himself and the -competition of the other farmers. But it is absurd to reproach the -landlord because prices are exaggerated.</p> - -<p>If one considers the question from a strictly legal point of view, one -cannot then even discuss the Irish tenants’ complaints, for they have -no foundation.</p> - -<p>But the relations of men with each other cannot be only based upon -strictly legal rights. There is a sentiment of a higher order, which -some call charity and others humanity, and which must also be taken -into account. Therefore, a really honourable man would never take -advantage of the circumstances that had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> placed another at his mercy -in order to force him to accept a ruinous bargain. Have the majority -of Irish landlords profited by the competition to raise their rents -unreasonably, as they are so often reproached with doing?</p> - -<p>It is naturally impossible to answer this question in a general way. -When we reflect on the enormous and regular increase in the price of -meat which has characterised the last fifteen or twenty years, and -which, until a quite recent date, was apparently unlimited, we must -maintain, like the Irish landlords still do, that the rents have not -been excessively high. It must be remembered that Irish leases are -much longer than our own. They usually include three lives; that is to -say, that the landlord renounces the right to raise the rent until the -death of the would-be tenant’s grandson. It was therefore quite natural -that, remembering the rise in prices, by which he had not profited, the -landlord should exact a rent which might in some cases be exaggerated, -in consideration of current prices, but which would have seemed -reasonable had the rise continued. The misfortune is that prices have -fallen, and therefore a reduction of rent is absolutely necessary.</p> - -<p>But it is quite certain that until these last few years the farmers -were doing well. The proof is, that when for some reason or other -they wished to retire, they always managed to sell their leases, and -sometimes to sell them very dearly. And even now they find buyers. -I was given numerous instances of this fact. Mr. Henry George, the -Socialist of whom I have already spoken, himself acknowledged, that -“Irish land is generally let below the price that the landlords could -obtain if it were put up to auction and they consented<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> to let it -to the highest bidder without regard to persons.” He even quoted an -article in the <i>Nineteenth Century</i>, in which a well-known Irish -economist, Miss O’Brien, states that the sub-tenants generally pay the -leaseholders twice the amount for the land that the latter give to -the landlords. This fact established, we must still acknowledge that -certain landlords, particularly those who seek to sell, have sometimes -profited, at a moment when the majority of the leases were drawing -to a close, by suddenly raising the rents in a formidable manner. -This transaction has been carried out by speculators or by creditors -on mortgage, who have taken possession. It has rarely been done by -hereditary landowners. However, there is one well-known man who is -accused of having, with the aid of one of his brothers, doubled in -one year all the rents on an estate which he had just inherited, and -of having immediately sold it to an English manufacturer for a price -based on the new rental. This man is Mr. Parnell, the chief of the -Land League. Knowing the usual inaccuracy of accusations inspired by -political passions, I was much inclined to doubt the truth of this one. -However, the incident has been vouched for by so many of Mr. Parnell’s -neighbours, so many details respecting it have been quoted to me, that -it appears difficult to believe that there is not some foundation for -it.</p> - -<p>When we examine facts closely we find then that in nine cases out of -ten, when an unfortunate man is spoken of as rack-rented to death, -it is of a sub-tenant they are speaking, not of a farmer. The Irish -farmer, on whose fate so much pity is wasted, is in reality more often -than not a frightful jobber; and it would be well to remember that, in -spite of all the laws that are made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> to prevent it, in spite of the -formal clauses contained in most of the leases, there are very few -farmers who do not contrive by different combinations, to find five or -six poor fellows who give themselves up to him, bound hand and foot, so -great is their desire to have a few acres of bad land. This is the case -of a man whose cabin I visited at Derrygariff; and there are in Ireland -two or three hundred thousand men who are in the same position.</p> - -<p>When a farmer thinks of hiring a farm he should always, before closing -the agreement, consider the following argument: “If my wife, my -children, and I, placed ourselves in service our united salaries would -amount, for instance, to a sum of 80<i>l.</i> Besides, I have money invested -which brings me in another 40<i>l.</i> If I take a farm, it is evidently not -in order that I should lose money by it. It must therefore bring me in -a minimum of 120<i>l.</i>, that is to say, the difference between the sum -I can reasonably draw from it, in good and bad years, and the rent I -have to pay, must amount to more than 120<i>l.</i>, since in this difference -will lie my profits. I must therefore estimate as exactly as possible -what the average of this income will be, and when once I know it I -shall be able to judge what I can offer the landlord, who on his side -should make an analogous calculation. If his claim is so high that I -cannot hope to regain the 120<i>l.</i> per annum that represent my work and -the interest of my capital, I will leave him his farm and search for -another!”</p> - -<p>Things would go better if every one reasoned in this way. The Irish -landlords would not let their farms too dearly, for the excellent -reason that no one would give<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> them more than they are worth, and -the tenants would not insist upon keeping seven or eight of their -children and their families on a farm already too small for themselves. -As for those who are unable to obtain a farm, they would not seek a -sub-tenancy without any guarantee of tenure and for which they pay two -or three pounds per acre, while the farmer only pays one pound to his -landlord—when he pays him at all. Only fathers will not be separated -from their children; others will not resign themselves to emigration; -the population is constantly increasing and the number of farms is -rather diminishing, so, whilst the number of those who wish for land -augments, it is quite natural that prices rise.</p> - -<p>How can Mr. Gladstone and the Land League seriously believe that -they can remedy this state of things by political or legislative -measures? One proof that the laws can do nothing for it is that there -is no country in the world where the law is already so favourable to -the tenant. It can never hold the balance equal between him and the -landlord. Thus, even if there is a lease, the tenant has always the -right of leaving his farm, by giving six months’ notice in advance, and -yet he cannot be sent away from it. That is to say that he profits by -all the good luck, without any of the risks of his bargain. A law was -passed five or six years ago which entails still more extraordinary -consequences. It gives the tenant the right to undertake, on his -farm, under pretence of improvements, any work he chooses to attempt, -and imposes upon the landlord the obligation to repay him the whole -value, if at the end of the lease, he will not renew it at the same -rent, or he wishes to send away the tenant. Some years ago one of -my acquaintances let a field situated near the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> town, to a butcher -in Limerick. The lease formally stipulated that the field was to -be retained in grass. But it happened that through the increase of -population, the town extended on that side. The butcher determined to -build a house in the field, which would bring him a good profit. To get -rid of him now, it is necessary to pay him for this house, and yet his -rent cannot be raised! One might just as well have given the butcher -the right of expropriation.</p> - -<p>The Irish are always comparing their fate with that of Americans. I had -the curiosity to inquire what the American law could be on the subject -of rent. I commenced by making inquiries from several well-informed -persons, and then by their advice I bought a small book, to which I -would refer every one who wishes to be really edified, <i>Every Man his -Own Lawyer</i>.</p> - -<p>The results of these inquiries rather astonished me. In America there -is no law that restricts the landlord’s rights. This is what Mr. George -says on this subject—I like to quote him, because he is not suspected -of sympathy for the social arrangements which prevail in Europe:—</p> - -<p>“We must acknowledge that an aristocracy like that of the Irish -landlords has the virtues as well as the vices peculiar to it. In their -transactions its members often allow themselves to be influenced by -considerations that would be valueless in the eyes of ordinary business -men. An American who had land to let would only think of obtaining the -highest possible rent. If he were told that humanity exacted that he -should let it below the price he hoped to obtain, he would consider the -proposal as strange as if his exchange<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> agent proposed to him to sell -stock below the current price.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Buckle, who has interested himself in these questions, considers -that the rent in Ireland generally equals one-fourth of the gross -produce. In California a great deal of the land is let for one-third of -the gross produce, sometimes even at one-half. In the north-west of the -United States the system of rent is definitively extended—the land is -let for half the produce.</p> - -<p>It is quite certain that if Ireland became an American State, the fate -of Irish farmers would be infinitely more precarious than it now is. -The political question has then a very minor influence in reality. -The Irish population has been for a long time more miserable than the -populations of other European countries, because in proportion to -the resources of the country, it has always been much too numerous. -And this disproportion between the number of the population and the -resources which the country can provide, tends to become greater as the -expenses necessitated by an ever-advancing civilisation become more -considerable. A larger portion of these resources must be withdrawn -to meet the general outlay. In the time of Fin M’Coul and the other -Irish kings, there were, it is said, more inhabitants,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" >[5]</a> and there -were certainly more cattle than there now are; but at that time the -cattle in the country were only used to feed the inhabitants, while -now, out of every ten oxen there is one that must be sold to pay the -constabulary, another to pay the schoolmasters, a third to support the -navy, and so on, so that,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> in fact, only two or three are left as food -for the inhabitants. This is no longer enough, and consequently the -Irish are dying of hunger.</p> - -<p>There are but two means of restoring the equilibrium. Increase the -number of cattle. To do this, it is necessary to improve and drain the -pasturage, and the landowners are open to reproach for not having done -more in this direction; this is the most serious reproach that can be -made of them; but we must acknowledge that whatever they may do the -result could not materially influence the general situation. This can -only be seriously ameliorated by a great diminution of the population. -We feel some repugnance at this solution of the difficulty. But still, -we have only to consult history to be convinced that from the earliest -ages there have always been nations upon whom it was imposed.</p> - -<p>The Germans threw themselves upon the Roman Empire because they had -not enough to eat at home; it was hunger that drove the Normans to -France. A hundred years ago the Scottish Highlanders literally died of -starvation; they were conveyed in a body to Canada, where many of them -have acquired large fortunes. It is unquestionable that they suffer -much less in Ireland since they have only five million inhabitants -instead of nine. However, they still suffer there, and it is because -Ireland, in its present economic condition, cannot feed more than two -or three million people, perhaps less.</p> - -<p>But she could assuredly retain more if it were possible to create some -industry. Unfortunately this seems very difficult. I am convinced that -we are destined to see, in a very near future, a large number<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> of -industries removed: all those dealing with materials that are neither -produced nor consumed in the country, that is to say, the only ones -which are possible in Ireland, which does not produce any raw material, -and where the consumption is always very small. I believe that many of -these industries, if not all, will be forcibly transported to other -localities than those where they are now working, and that in choosing -these localities the owners will be guided in a great measure by -climatic considerations. Workmen of all countries evidently aspire to -an equality of enjoyment. On the other hand, the facility of transport, -the amalgamation of working apparatus, resulting from the diffusion of -capital, impose upon masters the levelling of salaries. Now with equal -salaries, men suffer more in cold damp climates than in dry warm ones. -I add that they work less. This fact is well known in the French navy, -for a ship built or repaired in Brest costs infinitely more than if the -same work had been executed in the dockyards at Toulon. In Ireland, -a workman must always spend more for his food, his firing, and the -maintenance of his family, than if he lived in France or America. The -workman’s associations, which are now multiplying on all sides, will -soon reveal this disadvantage to him; he will demand an increase of -salary and ruin his master.</p> - -<p>I have therefore little faith in the resurrection of Irish industries. -But what is impossible for private enterprise may be done by -Government. I even think it may be considered a Government duty. The -Irish landowners are reproached for their absenteeism, that is, for -the habit of spending their income outside the country. If there is a -landowner guilty of absenteeism<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> it is certainly the Government. For -instance, the Irish coast is broken by a series of roads, each finer -than the other. If England were to suppress one of her Channel arsenals -and re-establish it in Ireland, the transfer would certainly cost her -some money. But the money would be well spent, for it would enable some -thousands of families to remain in the country, instead of being forced -to expatriate themselves before long.</p> - -<p>If the wish to obliterate the odious memories of the last century is -not strong enough to induce England to engage in this task, there is -another consideration which should make her reflect. Her power is -wholly based on her colonial empire. Until now she has been able, -without too much difficulty, to govern by force one hundred and fifty -million Indians, and maintain the colonies of her own people in a -state of political guardianship—Australia, New Zealand, and Canada. -If she had not enough men to keep up the effective total of the sixty -or eighty regiments that garrison India she would soon be driven from -the country. The white population of the other colonies doubles itself -every eight or ten years. When they have two or three times more -inhabitants than the metropolis, is it probable that the legislative -supremacy of the latter will be long maintained? It is therefore of -vital importance to England to retain in Great Britain the largest -population it can possibly support, and on this account the emigration -of two or three million Irish would be a great misfortune for her.</p> - -<p>In the first part of this study I related a few incidents of the crisis -which now rages in Ireland. How will this crisis end? I believe in the -most simple way in the world. The adoption of Mr. Gladstone’s Bill -would<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> only have made things worse. The tenants would perhaps have -imagined that they derived some advantage from it at first; but, as -I have said, it is not the leaseholders of the farms who are really -miserable, but the under-tenants, who are shamefully rack-rented by the -farmers. But no one can do anything for them, since in their eagerness -to obtain the land they will accept any combination proposed to them, -in order to evade the law, which forbids sub-letting. I therefore -believe that Mr. Gladstone’s defeat was a good thing for Ireland.</p> - -<p>The Government’s first duty is to re-establish material order, and this -can only be done by suppressing the jury. The <i>Times</i> already speaks -of it. There would certainly not be an uprising, or if there were, it -would not be of any importance.</p> - -<p>Rents would fall enormously, as they have already done all over Europe, -and agriculture would disappear almost entirely, to give place to -cattle-breeding.</p> - -<p>Many signs prove that this will be the way a settlement will be -arranged. It is first the enormous subsidies sent from America, and -secondly the support given by the clergy, that have made this crisis so -important and the League so powerful. Now the Americans begin to tire -of it. After my return from Ireland I made a tour in the United States, -and I can affirm that this sentiment is becoming visible. At a great -Irish meeting held at Chicago whilst I was there, one of the orators -ventured to say, that if the millions of dollars sent to Ireland were -only used to pay for firing an occasional shot at a landlord from -behind a hedge, the results were not in proportion to the sacrifices -made, and the audience seemed to agree with his opinion. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> have every -reason to believe that lately the American subsidies have greatly -diminished.</p> - -<p>I fancy also that the clergy are only waiting for a good opportunity to -withdraw from the League. The other day, Mr. Harrington, at Killarney, -had already uttered some words which seem to indicate that politicians -are beginning to fear something of the kind. The clergy entered the -League in spite of themselves; the movement first showed itself with so -much violence that had they left its exclusive direction in the hands -of the politicians, they would have run the risk of compromising, at -least for a time, all their popularity. But the Catholicism of many of -the Irish-Americans, whose alliance they were forced to submit to, is -so doubtful, that it is easy to foresee that the cause of religion will -not gain anything from their triumph. I am quite convinced that the -clergy will not long defer separating themselves from the League.</p> - -<p>The movement itself may yet last for some time, but it will gradually -become weaker. Everything depends on the rapidity with which emigration -is conducted. Now, I believe it will be speedily carried out. Formerly, -the Irish would not leave the country until they had absolutely no -means of staying there. I always thought that they emigrated pretty -willingly; but I was mistaken with regard to the past. Now, on the -contrary, all the young men only think of expatriation. An Australian -ex-official, who has retired about fifteen years, and is living in -the county of Limerick, pointed out to me this change of feeling in -the population. Every Irishman who leaves for Australia or the United -States does more towards the solution of the crisis than Mr. Parnell’s -finest speeches; for, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> diminishing the number of competitors for the -land, he lowers the price of farms, and the whole question is answered!</p> - -<p>Mr. Parnell, and all the otherwise honourable men who give him their -assistance, will not then succeed in re-establishing the independence -of Ireland, nor in modifying to any visible extent the present -political situation. We are convinced that after some years, when they -see peace and relative prosperity restored to their country, they will -not regret that they failed to carry out their programme; for we do -them the honour to believe that they would be more contented with an -arrangement that secured, as far as possible, the amelioration of their -fellow-countrymen’s fate, than with the egotistical satisfaction which -a momentary success would give them. If their only aim was to obtain -revenge by the ruin of England for all the injuries she inflicted -upon their fathers, they would certainly have some chance of success -in continuing the struggle. But it is only too evident that instead -of profiting by the downfall of English power, Ireland could only be -crushed by the wreck.</p> - -<p>So many sacrifices, so much devotion—have they all been expended to no -purpose? Assuredly not. The shock given to Irish society by exposing -all its misery has certainly assisted in ripening the question, of -hastening its solution, and consequently of shortening the sufferings -of all that too numerous class of the population who persist in -remaining in their native land, although that land can no longer -nourish them. A second Ireland already exists in America; a third will -soon be founded in Australia or elsewhere. In the prosperity that they -have found will the Irish retain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> the religious faith, the morality, -and the gaiety, which have supported and consoled their fathers through -so many years of oppression and misery? Unfortunately, we are not quite -sure. These fine qualities, which seem inherent in the race, receive -very severe blows when it quits its native soil. Let us at least hope -that they will be perpetuated amongst those who remain in the Emerald -Isle, and that travellers will be able to continue paying them the -homage that I have done when returning from a visit to <i>Paddy at Home</i>.</p> - -<p class="center space-above">THE END.</p> - -<h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5">[5]</a> I scarcely believe this, but the Irish like to assert it.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Richard Clay and Sons,<br /> -london and bungay.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/i310.jpg" alt="book list" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/i311.jpg" alt="Mellins Food" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/i312.jpg" alt="Tea of robust strength" /></div> - -<hr /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="mynote"><p class="center">Transcriber’s Note:<br /><br /> -Obvious typographic errors have been corrected.<br /></p></div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PADDY AT HOME***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 65514-h.htm or 65514-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/5/5/1/65514">http://www.gutenberg.org/6/5/5/1/65514</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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