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diff --git a/old/65321-0.txt b/old/65321-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 090d2e6..0000000 --- a/old/65321-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,912 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Pictorial Guide to Mesa Verde National -Park, by Ansel F. Hall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: A Pictorial Guide to Mesa Verde National Park - -Author: Ansel F. Hall - -Release Date: May 11, 2021 [eBook #65321] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A PICTORIAL GUIDE TO MESA VERDE -NATIONAL PARK *** - - [Illustration: Cliff Palace] - - - - - MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK - - - A PICTORIAL GUIDE - PHOTOGRAPHY AND TEXT BY—ANSEL F. HALL - MAPS—SKETCHES BY DELLA TAYLOR HOSS & MERRIE HALL WINKLER - - DESIGNED AND COPYRIGHTED BY ANSEL F. HALL - PUBLISHED BY MESA VERDE CO., MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO - A MIRRO-KROME ® PRODUCT LITHOGRAPHED BY H. S. CROCKER CO., INC., SAN - FRANCISCO, CALIF. - - [Illustration: PICTURE MAP OF MESA VERDE AND THE “FOUR-CORNERS - COUNTRY” OF THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES - (Get detailed road map from any service station.)] - - [Illustration: CLIFF PALACE] - - [Illustration: MESA VERDE—the “green tableland” rises 1,500 feet - above the Mancos Valley, here seen in its colorful October foliage. - In the foreground, Highway 160 bears westward to the pioneer town of - Mancos, 1 mile distant, and to the Park Entrance, 8 miles farther, - just below the distant bulk of Ute Mountain. Beneath the bold - promontory of Point Lookout the Park Entrance Highway can be seen - climbing to the top of Mesa Verde.] - - [Illustration: THE PARK ENTRANCE HIGHWAY, paved and engineered for - high-gear travel, begins its tortuous climb beneath Point Lookout - shortly after branching south from Highway 160.] - - [Illustration: MESA VERDE—NORTH ESCARPMENT Air view of the “Green - Table” not possible when named by Escalante in 1776.] - - [Illustration: AERIAL VIEW OF MESA VERDE - - ENTERING THE PARK: Entering Mesa Verde is a breathtaking experience. - Spectacular views confront the visitor as the road ascends for 5 - miles to a high valley. This valley is an important activity - center—the MORFIELD CAMPGROUND-VILLAGE complex. Just off the - entrance road are 500 individual and group campsites, a 1500 seat - amphitheatre, horseback riding and a shopping center. Approximately - 10 miles past Morfield the road reaches another important point of - activity. The National Park Service has located there the NAVAJO - HILL VISITOR CENTER. On the gentle summit above the visitor center - is the FAR VIEW MOTOR LODGE. On the road one mile south is Far View - Ruin, a large surface pueblo important to the interpretation of Mesa - Verde. The final four miles of the road descend gently through the - forest to SPRUCE TREE, the Park Headquarters Area. The principal - interpretative activity is here overlooking Spruce Tree Ruin, the - third largest and, perhaps, the best preserved of the classical - pueblo cliff dwellings.] - - - PLAN YOUR SIGHTSEEING - -In the Museum, at Park Headquarters, ranger-archaeologists are on duty -to provide maps and guide leaflets, and to advise how to make the best -use of your available time. You could spend a week in Mesa Verde’s -spectacular environment, seeing something new every day and absorbing -the fascinating story of 2,000 years of pre-history of the Stone Age -people who built these cliff cities. But if your time is budgeted to -only one day or less, the Museum Staff will help you plan your -sightseeing so as to see the more important ruins as a prelude to your -next—and longer—visit. - - [Illustration: Get your first view of SPRUCE TREE RUIN from the - balcony in the Museum area—then ...] - - [Illustration: Carefully plan your sightseeing to Cliff Palace and - the other big ruins.] - - - THE RUINS ROAD DRIVES - -The main sightseeing drives are normally open from 7:00 a. m. to -sundown. There are two 6-mile loops starting from the Spruce Tree Museum -Area. Use your own car or join the tour-guided sightseeing bus trips. -When following the Ruins Road Drives, park your car and walk to -overlooks, viewpoints, and down trails to the major ruins where -ranger-archaeologists are stationed to explain all details. - - [Illustration: PERSPECTIVE MAP OF “RUINS ROAD” DRIVE] - - [Illustration: At CLIFF PALACE, archaeologist-guides conduct - visitors through the ruin.] - - [Illustration: SQUARE TOWER RUIN] - - - ANCIENT HOUSES—SQUARE TOWER—SUN TEMPLE CIRCUIT - -Principal features of this very informative trip are: five groups of -mesa-top excavations showing the development sequence of prehistoric -dwellings; a spectacular close-up rim view of Square Tower, the tallest -cliff dwelling structure; rim views of many ruins; and opportunity to -climb to the top of Sun Temple. Three to four hours should be allowed to -absorb fully the facts interpreted by means of viewfinders, labels, -models and maps at various stopping points. - -To enter this loop road you will bear right at the first junction beyond -the Spruce Tree Museum Park lot. Stops at the sign, “Pit Houses,” and at -four additional surface-ruin sites in the next two miles, enable you to -look into homes of the pueblo farmers dating from 600 to approximately -1200 A.D. These exhibits warrant more than superficial study. - -You must not miss looking down on Square Tower Ruin. To reach the -viewpoint from which the photograph on page 7 was taken, leave your car -at designated parking space and follow a 200-yard mesa-top trail. - -Allow ample time at Sun Point to enjoy the wide panorama and a view of -the greatest concentration of big ruins. From this point be sure to note -Mummy House clinging to the cliff below Sun Temple, across Fewkes -Canyon. - -Just west of Sun Point the road parallels the south rim of Fewkes -Canyon, named for the famous archaeologist of the Smithsonian -Institution who directed the excavation and stabilization of these big -ruins between the years 1908 and 1922. Stop at nearby rim viewpoints to -look down on Oak Tree House, New Fire House Ruin, and Fire Temple. - -Climax of your trip will be the stop at Sun Temple where you may climb -to the top of the walls of this great structure that was left -uncompleted, at the time of the great drought of 1276-1298. - - [Illustration: FIRE TEMPLE AND NEW FIRE HOUSE RUIN as seen from rim - of Fewkes Canyon. ] - - [Illustration: OAK TREE HOUSE RUIN as seen from south rim of Fewkes - Canyon.] - - [Illustration: SQUARE TOWER RUIN as seen from rim viewpoint - (200-yard walk from road).] - - - CLIFF PALACE-BALCONY HOUSE CIRCUIT - -Outstanding features of this 6-mile loop are: the opportunity to be -guided through Cliff Palace and Balcony House ruins by well-informed -ranger-archaeologists; and stops at many overlooks, from which smaller -and inaccessible cliff dwellings are pointed out by viewfinders. Before -starting, go to the Museum for a time schedule of guided tours. The -turn-off to the Cliff Palace loop is the second junction after turning -east at the Spruce Tree Crossroads. Rim viewpoints are all marked by -rustic signs and provided with viewfinders and other informational -material. Allow three to four hours for this spectacular sightseeing -trip. - - [Illustration: View into Cliff Canyon from SUN TEMPLE.] - - [Illustration: SUN TEMPLE as seen from Sun Point, across Fewkes - Canyon. Note Mummy House Ruin under overhanging cliff.] - - - CLIFF PALACE - - [Illustration: TELEPHOTO VIEW OF CLIFF PALACE RUIN, AS SEEN FROM A - POINT NEAR SUN TEMPLE, ACROSS CLIFF CANYON.] - -This majestic ruin, the greatest of all cliff dwellings, is not only an -architectural masterpiece, but also a remarkable historical record. -Preserved within its walls is a fascinating story of a primitive people -who learned to work, and build, and live together in harmony and mutual -interdependence while our own European ancestors were struggling under -the harsh yoke of feudalism. It is this inspiring story that should be -carried away as your principal memory of Mesa Verde, rather than an -impression of crumbling walls. - -To carry you back through the ages, the National Park Service stations -knowledgeable archaeologists here to tell you how the ancient people -lived, to point out many significant details of their environment, and -to lead you as intimately as possible into the life of this Stone Age -community. - -The telephoto view of Cliff Palace on the two following pages endeavors -to picture the sweep and grandeur of this largest known cliff dwelling. - - [Illustration: Cliff Palace] - - - CLIFF PALACE - - [Illustration: CLIFF PALACE occupies a large cave in the precipitous - wall of one of Mesa Verde’s 28 canyons. At the right in this photo - is the back of the so-called “Speaker Chief Tower” which is pictured - on page 5.] - - [Illustration: There are 23 kivas, circular underground ceremonial - chambers, each of which was used by the men of an individual clan. - When visiting ruins, note these features: fire pit, ventilator - shaft, deflector, 6 pilasters, and the Sipapu (spiritous entrance to - the underworld).] - - - THE TRAIL TO CLIFF PALACE - -The trail trip through Cliff Palace ruin requires approximately -three-quarters of an hour. Leave your car at the designated parking -space. Walk first to the railed rock promontory about 100 feet from the -road, from which point a splendid panorama view is obtained; then make -the 5-minute descent down the foot trail to the Ruin where you will be -met by the ranger-archaeologist. - - [Illustration: View of the south section of the CLIFF PALACE from - the point where visitors are met by the ranger-archaeologist, who - here outlines what is known about the life and culture of the - ancient inhabitants.] - - [Illustration: THE ROUND TOWER is one of the most perfectly built of - all the architectural features of Cliff Palace. Individual blocks - were curved by chipping with stone axes.] - - - THE TRAIL TO BALCONY HOUSE - -Of all Mesa Verde’s cliff dwellings, Balcony House Ruin is the most -dramatically situated and offers the most exciting personal exploration -experience. National Park Service archaeologist-guides meet visitors at -the designated parking space to lead the 1¼-to-1½-hour trip over a -half-mile ledge trail, up the famous approach ladder, and through the -ruin. Time schedule of trips may be obtained at the Museum. - - [Illustration: Interior, BALCONY HOUSE RUIN, looking north. Note the - approach ladder at the lower right.] - - [Illustration: Climbing the ladder to Balcony House Ruin provides - one of the most remembered thrills of the Mesa Verde experience.] - - [Illustration: View into Soda Canyon from the parapet of BALCONY - HOUSE RUIN. The balcony in the foreground is more than 700 years - old.] - - - YOUR TRIP TO THE TOP OF THE “GREEN MESA” - - [Illustration: LUNACHUKAI MTS. FROM PARK POINT (EL. 8,572) A VAST - PANORAMA OPENS UP TO THE SOUTH AND WEST. THE LOVELY UNBROKEN - FOREST-GREEN MESA-TOP, IN THE FOREGROUND, SUPPORTED AND PROTECTED - THE CIVILIZED PEOPLE WHO ONCE LIVED HERE.] - -No trip to Mesa Verde National Park is complete without a visit to Park -Point Lookout, 8,572-foot summit on the north rim. You must not miss the -thrilling and inspiring full-circle panorama of mountains, mesas, and -wide reaches of desert. - -In many ways, the section of the panorama pictured in the above sketch -is most significant: it looks southward and westward into the vast -distances of the Navajo and Ute Indian Reservation—the “Four-Corners -Country,” where sixty thousand Navajos herd their sheep and live their -primitive nomadic life. - -The fire guard will point out to you the volcanic spire of Shiprock, 50 -miles distant as the buzzard flies. He may also call your attention to -the notch just north of the huge bulk of The Sleeping Ute, where the -McElmo Canyon Road leads to Hovenweep Ruins—and beyond, to the vast -colorful Monument Valley. You will certainly want him to identify the -spectacular 14,000-foot peaks of the northern and eastern skyline. - -Overshadowed or concealed in all this vastness are many features that -determined the very lives of the people who once lived here—factors that -literally created their hospitable environment. Earth movements in -long-past geologic ages had raised the Mesa’s rocks from beneath the -seas; other more violent displacements had thrust up the high peaks of -the San Juans and the La Platas to the northeast and, in so doing, -elevated and tilted our Mesa. The resulting elevation—8,500 feet at the -north, sloping down to 7,000 feet at the south—encouraged the slight -margin of rainfall that invited trees and all manner of plants and -animals to form a natural community that welcomed the first hunters and -Stone Age settlers when they arrived. - -There is deep meaning in the lovely unbroken green mesa-top forest you -see spread out before you. Stop for a moment and picture how nature has -reclaimed the fields of corn and beans and squash that lay hidden -between piñon groves a thousand years ago—and how the stream of human -life is not lost, but persists through the ages: in this case, in the -pueblo dwellers who live today beyond the mesas and distant mountains of -the southern horizon. - - “May the public interest in America’s remaining wilderness areas - continue to grow in the years ahead, and may the National Parks - forever be able to provide an outlet for those who would adventure in - the wilds far beyond a road’s end.” - - CONRAD L. WIRTH, _Director, National Park Service_ - Reprinted from “THE NATIONAL PARK WILDERNESS.” - - [Illustration: The green top of MESA VERDE as seen from Park Point - Lookout. In the middle ground is the Knife Edge; at the far right, - Point Lookout. On the northeast skyline are the 13,000-foot peaks of - the La Plata Range of the southern Rockies.] - - - ACTIVITIES IN THE PARK HEADQUARTERS AREA - -In this area you will see your first Cliff Dwelling. - -You will walk; everything is conveniently near. - -You will visit the Museum—probably several times—to plan trips and to -better understand what you see here. - -You may hike on the Mesa Top, ledge and canyon trails—but be sure to get -maps and a permit at the Museum. - -You will enjoy the variety of several evening campfires at the canyon -rim amphitheatre. - -You may worship at the inter-denominational services Sundays. - -You will find food and refreshment at the SPRUCE TREE TERRACE. - -You may want to relax in the sightseeing bus with the guide driving -while you look at the Ruins. - - - ACTIVITIES AT NAVAJO HILL - -An important area is Navajo Hill, 15 miles from the Park Entrance (refer -to perspective map on page 4). The Park Visitor Center is located here. -This is the junction of the Wetherill and Chapin Roads. - -You will find food and refreshment in the Lodge. - -You may want to relax in the sightseeing bus with the guide driving -while you look at the Ruins. - -You may hike to Far View Ruin ¾ mile south. - -You will watch a breathtaking sunset over 4 states. - - ★ ★ ★ - - [Illustration: THE EVENING CAMPFIRE. Nightly, at the Campfire - Circle, informal talks are given by members of the archaeological - staff. The subjects: modern Indians, food plants, archaeology, etc., - vary each night during the week. Frequently the Navajo Indians, who - work in the Park, present tribal dances and chants (their beliefs - prohibit photographs).] - - [Illustration: HIKING along the rim rocks and into the canyons leads - to spectacular views and ruins that cannot be seen from the roads. - Most trail trips require strenuous exertion, and because of the - danger of getting lost, hikers must obtain maps and a permit before - leaving the Headquarters Area.] - - [Illustration: SPRUCE TREE RUIN, one of the best preserved of the - larger cliff dwellings, is a 5-minute walk from the Museum. For full - enjoyment of this one-hour experience, get a guide leaflet before - you start. Archaeologists are stationed here to show and explain - some of the 114 living rooms and 12 kivas.] - - - GLIMPSES OF THE MESA VERDE STORY - -The Mesa Verde story has all the elements of the most thrilling -“Western:” - -Scene 1. Father Escalante and his cavalcade of Spanish explorers camped -at the northeast edge of the Mesa on August 11, 1776—without even -suspecting that its deep canyons hid ancient stone cities. - -Scene 2. Antonio Armijo, with his caballeros at nearby Mancos Creek, on -November 19, 1824, searching for a route from Santa Fe to California. - -Scene 3. Secret inroads of the Mountain Men—beaver trappers who may have -poached in this remote section of the southern Rockies in the 1830’s and -1840’s. - -Scene 4. The hectic rush of the gold and silver prospectors of the 50’s -and 60’s into the nearby La Plata Diggings. - -Scene 5. Arrival of the pioneer photographer, William Henry Jackson, at -the mines; his search for vaguely reported ruins—and his discovery and -first photograph of a Mesa Verde cliff dwelling, Two Story House, on -September 9, 1874. - -Scene 6. The government survey party led by H. H. Holmes, surveying the -new West, the next year, and finding a large cliff dwelling which he -called Sixteen-Window House. - -Scene 7. Pioneer ranchers settling in the Mancos Valley in the 1870’s -and 1880’s, especially the Wetherills who made friends with the Utes, -and were permitted to run their cattle on the forbidden Mesa Verde. - -Scene 8. In 1885, the coming of the first, and possibly the most -willful, young lady tourist, Virginia Donahoe, who was given protection -by the officers of the Indian fighting cavalry and advised to “go home”; -but, instead, stayed at the Wetherill ranch and went hunting arrowheads -and prehistoric pottery with the five Wetherill boys—and returned the -next summer to equip her own expedition that penetrated Cliff Canyon and -“discovered Balcony House Ruin on October 6, 1886.” - -Scene 9. The friendly old Ute chief, Acowitz, enjoying the Wetherills’ -hospitality and telling them of “Big Cities” in Mesa Verde’s canyons. - -Scene 10. Richard Wetherill and his cousin, Charley Mason, searching for -lost cattle on the Mesa—and their dramatic “discovery” of Cliff Palace -and Spruce Tree Ruins on December 18, 1888—and Square Tower Ruin the -following day. - -Scene 11. The local cowboys “treasure hunting” in cliff dwellings during -the next few years—permissible digging for relics which were beautiful -curiosities and sometimes saleable. - -Scene 12. Systematic field investigations by Dr. F. H. Chapin, W. R. -Birdsall and Baron Gustaf Nordenskiold, whose scientific reports of -1890-93 resulted in the dawning recognition of the scientific importance -of these ruins and buried artifacts. - -Scene 13. The women of Colorado rallying to the standard of their Cliff -Dwellings Association, through the 1890’s and early 1900’s, for the -establishment of a national park. - -Scene 14. Many congressional postponements and final action establishing -Mesa Verde National Park on June 29, 1906. - -Scene 15. Subsequent palaver and a treaty with the Utes to rectify the -boundaries and to get the big ruins into the Park—and controversy with -these recalcitrant neighbors that persists to this day. - -Scene 16. Dr. J. Walter Fewkes of the Smithsonian Institution and a -digging crew repairing Spruce Tree Ruin and stabilizing its walls in -1908, and Cliff Palace during the following year, and most of the other -big ruins during the next thirteen years—stabilization and research that -continues today under the National Park Service, assisted by the -National Geographic Society. - -Scene 17. George Mills surveying the “carriage road” to the Mesa top -which was painfully pioneered from 1907 to 1914. - -Scene 18. Announcement: “On May 23, 1921, Mr. Jesse Nusbaum of Colorado, -a young archaeologist of great experience and reputation for successful -work in the Southwest, was appointed” as Superintendent of Mesa Verde -National Park. - - ★ ★ ★ - -The new Superintendent’s wide and practical experience enabled him to -lead the way in coordinating and directing many important activities: -overall plans for the general functional layout; architectural plans; -road construction; establishment of public campgrounds; development of -water supply and other facilities needed by the vastly increased number -of visitors who were beginning to discover this fascinating, unique, and -hitherto almost unknown National Park. - -Outstanding among the permanent achievements of this constructive decade -were the development of the Ranger Guide Service made up for the most -part of trained young archaeologists, under the direction of a permanent -naturalist-archaeologist; the building and equipment of a museum from -funds contributed by public subscription; the establishment of evening -campfire lectures, and demonstrations by the Navajos of their tribal -chants and dances—activities that today form the pattern of the -inspiring interpretive program conducted here by the National Park -Service. - - - THE MUSEUM - - [Illustration: Sketch of museum] - -An ancient medicine man’s pouch with its magic treasures—mummy of a -Basketmaker maiden who lived 1,500 years ago—the primitive hunter’s -atlatl—might pique your curiosity and lure you to visit the Mesa Verde -Museum. Soon you would discover, however, that this is not just a -storehouse for dry-as-dust dead things, but rather a living center of -knowledge and its interpretation—the key to your understanding and -enjoyment of the real museum which is the Park itself. - - [Illustration: Decorative border] - - [Illustration: CLIFF PALACE IN 1270 A.D. - From a Painting by PAUL COZE] - -Collaborating with the staff of the Mesa Verde Museum, the artist has -shown typical activities at 3:00 P.M. on a sunny autumn afternoon in -1270 A.D. - -In the left foreground an unmarried girl with butterfly hair-do is -husking corn of several colors and gossiping with a married lady who has -the matron’s two rolls of hair behind her ears. Three women in the -painting wear the pueblo dress, while the others have string aprons; -both would have been used in the summer. Nearby is a ladle and a -corrugated pot—on the wall top a Classic Mesa Verde mug and a decorated -jar. - -Between the girl and the wife fixing her husband’s hair lies a snare. -Close to the couple are a bowl, a squash, a stone axe, and a peculiar -submarine-shaped jar. - -Above the couple a dog barks at a youngster who has broken a big jar. -Two women are making pottery; behind them two women replaster the lower -room of a two-story house, on top of which a man is pointing out to some -children that the town crier is making an announcement, and they should -keep quiet. Two priests, one with ceremonial kilt and evergreens, climb -a one-pole ladder. - -Beneath the crier a woman closes the doorway of her house with a stone -slab, and below her on the near roof an old lady keeps warm with a -rabbit-skin blanket, while her daughter grinds corn. In front of the -house a woman, whose baby snoozes in a wooden cradle, bakes blue corn -meal “pancakes” on a hot stone slab. The kiva door is closed with a mat, -turkeys wander about, and the woman in the right-hand corner, sitting on -the beautiful brown textile (to be seen in the Park Museum), strings -turquoise beads. - -To the right, two bow-and-arrow-makers ridicule a returning unsuccessful -hunter, women bring water in jars from the spring, and turkeys pick over -the trash pile. - -Visible in the painting are a round and a square tower, ten of 23 -exceptionally small kivas which occur in the ruin, and rectangular and -T-doors. Beyond the square tower with its balcony, people are finishing -a third-story room. - -Cliff Palace had 200 living rooms and sheltered perhaps 400 persons. - - [Illustration: MORFIELD VILLAGE AND CAMPGROUND] - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A PICTORIAL GUIDE TO MESA VERDE -NATIONAL PARK *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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