diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/65125-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/65125-0.txt | 6883 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 6883 deletions
diff --git a/old/65125-0.txt b/old/65125-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 9887cfe..0000000 --- a/old/65125-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6883 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Journey of a Jayhawker, by W. Y. Morgan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: A Journey of a Jayhawker - -Author: W. Y. Morgan - -Illustrator: Albert T. Reid - -Release Date: April 21, 2021 [eBook #65125] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes, and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY OF A JAYHAWKER *** - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes. - -Hyphenation has been standardised. -Other changes made are noted at the end of the book. - - -[Illustration: ARMED AND EQUIPPED, AS ADVISED BY FRIENDS.] - - - - - _A JOURNEY - OF A JAYHAWKER_ - - _BY - W. Y. MORGAN_ - - _WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY - ALBERT T. REID_ - - - MONOTYPED AND PRINTED BY - CRANE & COMPANY, PRINTERS - TOPEKA - 1905 - - - - - Copyright 1905, - BY W. Y. MORGAN. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -These letters were written to the Hutchinson Daily News, and are -printed in book form without revision. With this understanding the -reader will kindly overlook inconsistencies and inaccuracies, which -easily creep into what is only an impression and not a study. Any other -mistakes are to be charged to the printer and proof-reader, who are -likewise to be credited for the correct grammar and English which may -be found in some places. - -There is no excuse for the publication of these letters. No one is -guilty except the writer, and he is responsible only to his conscience, -which is not sensitive. - - W. Y. MORGAN. - - HUTCHINSON, KANSAS, December 1, 1905. - - - - - _To the - PEOPLE OF HUTCHINSON, - Who have stood for much from the same - source, and for whom there is no - relief in sight, this book is - respectfully dedicated._ - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - _Page._ - - GOING TO EUROPE 11 - - LEAVING THE LAND 17 - - CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 24 - - FIRST DAY IN IRELAND 31 - - BY KILLARNEY’S LAKES 37 - - IRELAND AND THE IRISH 44 - - THE CITY OF PLEASURE 53 - - PARIS AND PARISIANS 60 - - RURAL FRANCE 69 - - GETTING INTO ITALY 79 - - ROME AND ROMANS 86 - - VENICE, THE BEAUTIFUL 93 - - SOME THINGS ON ART 100 - - AN ITALIAN FOURTH AND SO FORTH 106 - - ACROSS THE ALPS 117 - - GENEVA AND CHILLON 123 - - SOMETHING OF SWITZERLAND 130 - - SWISS AND SWITZERLAND 136 - - IN THE BLACK FOREST 145 - - STORIES OF STRASSBURG 152 - - IN OLD HEIDELBERG 159 - - WORMS AND OTHER THINGS 167 - - RICH OLD FRANKFORT 174 - - DOWN THE RHINE 180 - - COLOGNE WATER AND OTHERS 188 - - IN DUTCH LAND 197 - - THE DAM DUTCH TOWNS 204 - - THE KINGDOM OF BELGIUM 212 - - EUROPEAN ART AND GRUB 219 - - IN OLD, OLD ENGLAND 231 - - THE GREATEST OF CITIES 238 - - AT KING EDWARD’S HOUSE 246 - - THE TOWER AND OTHER THINGS 253 - - IN RURAL ENGLAND 259 - - RAILROADS IN EUROPE 266 - - THE TIME TO QUIT 275 - - - - -A JOURNEY OF A JAYHAWKER. - - - - -GOING TO EUROPE. - - - BOSTON, May 25, 1905. - -When one decides to make a European trip he immediately becomes -impressed with the importance of his intention, and thinks that -everyone else is likewise affected. Of course this is a mistake, but -you have to stop and think before you realize it. You go down the -street imagining everyone is saying, “There is a man who is going to -Europe.” In fact, the other fellow is probably merely wondering whether -or not you will pay the two dollars you owe him or stand him off for -another thirty days. You are in an exhilarated state. You think over -the cherished desires of a lifetime to see London, Paris, Rome, and -the places made famous by history. You can’t pick up a paper but you -read some reference to a place or thing which you are going to see -across the Atlantic, and which ordinarily you would skip as you do -a patent-medicine advertisement. You go to reading the accounts of -Emperor William’s plans as if you would soon meet William and talk them -over with him. You read about the comings and goings of nobility and -wonder if the pope knows you are likely to call on him some day in -July, and whether the Swiss Guards will realize the honor of a visit -from an American citizen by the name of Morgan or Jones. You read of -European travel and sights, and, worst of all, you actually get to -believe the things. In fact, you work yourself up to a fine point of -enthusiasm and in your mind go cavorting around among ancient heroes -and crowned heads. As a first guess I would say that probably the most -successful part of a trip to the Old World is the one you take in -advance. - -[Illustration] - -As soon as I disclosed my European intentions, I began to get advice -from friends and old travelers. This is a trying experience. Everybody -has ideas as to what should be done, and no two will agree. One of the -first questions to be settled is that of clothing. The importance of -this is impressed upon the prospective tourist. In the first place I am -told to take no baggage except the very simplest that can be carried -in the hand. In the second place I am advised that when traveling in -Europe, even more than in this country, one should be prepared for all -kinds of climate and be ready with the proper clothes to meet every -emergency. Every bit of information is absolutely as true as common -law or the gospel, for the informant has either made the trip, or -his wife’s cousin has, or he knows a man who knows another man who -did,—and you are told what happened with all the harrowing details. -Clothes do not make the man or the woman, but they help out a lot. So -that our friends will realize the difficulties we may meet. I will -admit that we are going to the “simple” extreme, taking only light -baggage, very little more than a clean collar and a pleasant smile. If -royalty wants to call upon us, royalty will not find us prepared with -the clothes required by the books of etiquette, unless I can hire a -dress suit or borrow one from the head waiter. - -[Illustration] - -I have also discovered that it is going to be difficult to please -everybody with our route. Nearly every person has something that just -must be seen, and not to do so would make a trip to Europe a flat -failure. Most of these important places are dug up by inspiration from -the memory of some novel or play. There is the scientific man who urges -German universities, the musically inclined who would make Wagnerian -objects the great points, the historical student who prescribes -battlefields, the sportive gent who urges Monte Carlo, the classical -enthusiast who can think of nothing less than a thousand years old, -the art-lover who has a list of seventy-seven different styles of -Madonnas, the novel-reader who would wander over the country of Scott, -the social oracle who would spend the time in London and “Paree,” the -enthusiast in civics who is interested in government railroads, the -initiative and referendum of Switzerland, and the man whose ideas of -a trip abroad are condensed in the parting injunction, “Take one for -me at Munich or Heidelberg.” It is shocking to see the disappointed -look of the friendly adviser if you do not agree with him that his -recommendation is the great thing in Europe. A friend of mine who is -an archæologist said: “Of course you are going to Greece?” Now I had -not thought of Greece, and ventured to say so. “What, not going to -Greece!” was the withering answer in a tone which plainly meant that -you were undoubtedly going to throw your opportunity away like an empty -sack when the peanuts are gone. Another type of adviser is the man who -says: “You must see the Coliseum,” when you know the man would not know -the Coliseum if he were to meet it in the road. He has simply heard -some one say something about the Coliseum, and takes that word in order -to show off his superior knowledge of the sights of Europe. During the -weeks of preparation we have made “itineraries” to suit the suggestions -of our friends. It is easy to make an itinerary, and no trouble at all -to change it the next day when a more profitable route is offered. On -a rough estimate I should say that in the last few weeks we have made -European itineraries enough to take about seventeen years’ time, and -we are intending to be away only about three months. The fact is that -while Europe is only a little continent, not near as big as the United -States, it has been fought over, scrapped over, built over, written -about and has been doing business for so many hundreds of years that -there is hardly a pin-point on the map which for some good reason you -do not want to visit. It is like taking a newspaper article about seven -columns long and condensing it to a small paragraph. You feel you are -cutting out all the really good places, and about the extent of your -trip is to the points to which you have ordered your mail sent and -where you have to go to change trains. - -[Illustration] - -And then there is the friend who can’t go to Europe and who could -hardly get to Newton if he had to pay for a round-trip ticket, who -comfortingly says: “I wouldn’t go to Europe until I had seen all of -my own country.” This remark has been made to me so often in the last -few weeks that I have learned to dodge when I see it coming. I have -traveled around some in the United States, and as a matter of fact -the people in one section are pretty much the same as the people in -another, and it is people that I like to see and not mountains or -museums. Of course some parts are more so than others. There is no -State like Kansas and no people like Kansans. The object of a trip to -Europe is to see something different, as different as possible. It -is to get the local “color” for the things you read about. It is to -learn if the men and women of the Old World are as they are pictured -in books, and to compare them with the people whom you associate -with every day at home. I am told that in Paris even little children -can talk French, and that in Germany the people stand it to have an -emperor and never organize any boss-buster movements or bolt the party -nominations. I have read about these things all my life, and they may -be true. I want to see them. I am not from Missouri, but I have lived -near enough to want to be shown. - -We sailed from Hutchinson on the Santa Fe. After touching at a few -places we reached Boston safely, and unless the police intervene we -will embark this afternoon on the White Star steamship Arabic. It is -still two hours until we go aboard but I am already seasick, or am -imagining how it will feel, which is nearly as bad. I am not afraid -of water. I have lived too long on the Arkansas and Cow creek and my -boyhood was spent on the shores of the Cottonwood. But nevertheless and -notwithstanding, I feel as I think everybody must when he takes his -first long ocean voyage. I never noticed so many accounts of wrecks as -I have in the last month. If there was an item in a newspaper about -the wreck of some ocean steamer or the drowning of a passenger, and I -did not see the piece, some friend always did, and brought it to me -to comfort me. Statistics prove that it is as safe to travel across -the ocean in a steamship as across Kansas in a railroad train. This is -comforting, but statistics do not look big and substantial when you -contemplate a week’s existence with nothing but a few boards and bolts -between yourself and the place where McGinty went. One little man in a -little old boat seems mighty small in the middle of a big ocean. - - - - -LEAVING THE LAND. - - - STEAMSHIP ARABIC, May 29, 1905. - -In spite of the fact that a trip across the Atlantic is not considered -dangerous or exceptional, there is always a lot of sentiment which -comes up into the throat of the traveler when he goes aboard the -ship that is to take him out of his own country and across the ocean -to a foreign land. Long before the Arabic was to sail it was filled -with passengers and friends who had come to say good-by and wave -farewell. The custom is whenever a friend is to start on such a trip -to accompany him or her to the dock, send flowers to be placed in the -stateroom, and to stand on the wharf and wave a handkerchief until the -responding figure on the deck of the ship is no longer recognizable -in the distance. Of course, we were so far from home that there was -nobody to do these honors for wandering Kansans, so we picked out -a few nice-looking people who seemed to be there for curiosity and -vigorously shouted and waved good-by to them, and they had the good -taste to respond. A Colorado man who had been on the trip before told -me afterward that the young fellow who had called so cheerily and waved -so vigorously at him as the steamer pulled away from land, was a hotel -porter whom he had hired for a half-dollar to come to the wharf and bid -him godspeed on his journey. - -The Arabic turned away from the dock at 4.30 in the afternoon of -May 25, and steamed slowly and majestically down the harbor and out -toward the ocean with a half-dozen little pilot-boats and revenue -cutters whistling and dancing like a lot of little dogs frisking and -playing around a big dog as it walks down the street. The old ship -Constitution, heroine of America’s early naval warfare, was passed, -the forts and the navy yard with the modern warships and guns, the -last island and the last American flag faded into the distance, and a -solemn thought of leaving one’s native land and of possible seasickness -makes one choke with patriotism and foreboding. It is too late now to -back out. There is no chance to get off. For a week the ship will never -stop, and there will be no place upon which the eye can rest except -water and sky. A flood of sentiment rushes through one and leaks a -little at the eyes as the mind turns to those who have been so near and -dear and are now to be so far away. That is the feeling experienced -by all travelers, and I want to be recorded present and voting on the -question, although as a matter of fact while the Arabic was leaving the -dock and country I was quarreling with the purser over the stateroom -and trying to get the steward to help me handle baggage when he was so -full of American liquor that he could do nothing but say “yessir” (hic) -and smile. - -[Illustration: NO TIME FOR SENTIMENT.] - -No doubt everyone has noticed how the apparently little things of life -occupy us at most critical and important times. I remember when at -a certain stage I was accomplishing an object to which I had worked -industriously and whole-heartedly. I should have been filled with -happiness and pride as I faced a large crowd of people. As a matter of -fact I was miserable because my collar did not fit my shirt and kept -bobbing up and down in a refractory way. The first time I saw Niagara -Falls, whither I had gone to be overcome with the grandeur and beauty -of the scene, I put in all my time trying to find a place to get a -sandwich. It is said that when Gladstone was making his great fight for -Irish home rule he was sitting on his bench in parliament, apparently -wrapped in deep thought. His colleagues did not disturb him, for they -supposed he was pondering the question which was agitating every -mind. Finally he straightened himself up and said to himself, but so -those near could hear: “After all, I will plant that rosebush in the -front instead of at the side of the doorway.” The energetic man who -is traveling amid picturesque and historical places puts in more time -figuring out time-tables and wondering whether he will get dinner in a -dining-car or at a lunch station, than he does in soulful meditation -on the wonders of nature or the handiwork of man. And the general -run of women, I am firmly convinced by circumstantial evidence, will -approach the subject of a European trip or a church wedding, not with -the thoughts of the lands to be visited or the responsibility to be -assumed, but with minds full of the problem of whether four shirtwaists -and a skirt will do better than two dresses. This peculiarity of -humanity has often impressed me, so I was not surprised when I realized -as I returned more or less triumphant from my battles with purser and -steward that I missed most of the thrills and throbs that had been -promised me by all the guidebooks and books of travel that I had read. - -An ocean voyage is being robbed of most of its terrors. The Arabic is -a big ship, one of the largest. It stretches out over so many waves -that it does very little rolling or plunging. We have been out for -three days and there have been really no cases of seasickness. I fully -expected to be seasick, and it is a great disappointment. However, I -am not going to ask the company to refund my fare on that account. -Everybody is afraid of seasickness, and down in his heart everybody -wishes that everybody else might be sick and he alone left to proudly -walk the deck and smile at the victims. The only person who suffers -from seasickness is the individual affected. You may run a sliver in -your finger and the family will gather around with words of sympathy. -You may get a cinder in your eye and your friends will hurry forward to -help get it out. But if you are suffering with seasickness, and death -would almost be welcome, your friends will only grin and their words of -condolence are false and mocking. - -[Illustration] - -A modern steamship is constructed for safety, comfort, and almost -luxury. When you get those three qualities there is very little left of -the poetry or novelty of ocean traveling. We still speak of the ship -“sailing,” although, of course, it doesn’t. The modern ship steams. We -have read all of our lives about the beautiful white-wings and the -jolly jack tars. The reality is a mammoth engine out of sight, a big -smoke-stack, and a lot of black, dust-covered, sweaty firemen. The -“sailors” no longer climb the rigging and the masts, but go down in -the hole and shovel coal. My ideas of the sea came from Oliver Optic. -I want to hear the boatswain pipe, the mate’s command, “All hands -belay ship,” and see the captain as he stands at his post and with -an occasional “Steady, my hearties,” direct the seamen as they sing -their songs and clamber up the masts. That is beauty and poetry. But -the reality is that the captain whistles down the tube to the engineer -and he gives the order, “More coal, you sons of guns; stop that noise -and fire up.” That is fact, and makes traveling comfortable but not -soul-inspiring. - -[Illustration] - -The White Star line, on which we are traveling, belongs to the big -steamship company merger, formed by Pierpont Morgan a few years ago. -It is really owned by American capital and controlled by American -financiers, but the ships carry the British flag and are manned by -British officers and men. England manages things so that it pays to -carry the English flag. I have a great deal of respect for England. -With all our American enterprise, energy and ability, we look like -a tallow candle beside an electric light when it comes to ships and -international commerce. The government of England always looks after -its shipping interests and encourages capital to send English vessels -and English crews carrying English merchandise to the furthermost -parts. Prizes, bounties, subsidies and favors of all kinds have been -used to make the merchant marine of Great Britain greater than that of -the rest of the world. The English are a great people, and they are -conscious of it. And they see to it that everybody else understands the -fact. There isn’t anything in this American-owned ship that comes from -the United States except what the passengers have in their baggage. -The crew from captain to cook are English. The supplies are all bought -in England. The ships are built and repaired at Belfast. Coal for the -voyage both ways comes from Wales. English meats and even ice-cream are -purchased in Liverpool for the round trip. You can’t buy an American -postage stamp, and United States money is not taken except at exchange -below par. The American who has been going through life under the -impression that America is the whole thing has his feelings stepped on -nearly every time he turns around. - -[Illustration] - -The daily life on a steamship is a good deal like I am told it is on -a limited Santa Fe Pullman train, only there is a little more room. -There are all kinds of people on the Arabic, mostly from England, the -United States or Boston. Soon after we left port I met a fellow who -looked like somebody from home. I asked him where he was from, and he -said Nevada. I said I was from Kansas, and he enthusiastically grasped -my hand and said, “Then we are neighbors.” You do get a good deal of -that feeling. Afterward we met some folks from Colorado, and to see -us warm up to each other would have made you think we were a long -separated but happily reunited family. When anyone asks me where I hail -from and I say “Kansas,” the answer is nearly always “Oh.” And then I -shut my eyes and wait for the next remark. It never fails to come: “Do -you know Carrie Nation?” If I get a fair show I generally manage in -the course of conversation to incidentally ring in a few things about -Kansas that they never heard before (and once in a long while something -I never heard before myself). I don’t have to confine myself to things -I can prove. Colorado and Nevada will stand by me, and if the returning -English tourists are not regretting they did not see the wonderful -State of Kansas they are simply figuring me out a liar. The poet said: -“How sweet it is for one’s country to die.” Let us add: “How sweet it -is for one’s country to lie.” - -That reminds me of a good joke on myself. An Englishman was complaining -of the voyage and wishing he was in old. England. I did a little -rapture talk about the ocean, and said I loved to go on the deck, -watching the never-ending blue of water and sky and just lie and lie -and lie there. He said: “I believe you told me you were a newspaper -man.” - - - - -CROSSING THE ATLANTIC. - - - STEAMSHIP ARABIC, June 1, 1905. - -I have come to a realization of the work of Christopher Columbus. It -took nerve to keep on sailing day in and day out, week in and week out, -with no sight of anything that looked like land,—nothing but a great -stretch of water, not even a stick in it. If I had been on board the -Santa Maria I would surely have joined the crowd of sailors who wanted -to quit and go home. We have come now nearly 3,000 miles through the -Atlantic, and if someone had not been over the route before and we did -not believe that land would appear at a certain time it would certainly -look as if the ocean would never end. If Columbus were to make the trip -now on the Arabic he would probably be as surprised as were the Indians -when the Spaniards landed on San Salvador something over 400 years ago. -The monotony of the ocean is only broken by an occasional passing ship, -and a high-strung imagination. We have met or passed five ships in -seven days. Each one has provided us with excitement for half a day. We -took sides as to whether the strange vessel was a Cunarder, an American -liner, a North German Lloyd or what not. Every line that crosses the -ocean would have partisans and each corner of the argument would be -vigorously sustained by expert evidence. I decided on a system. I -always maintained that the ship was an American liner. By sticking -to the text and not changing I hit it once, which was better than the -average. Then we have long and sometimes bitter discussions as to the -number of miles the Arabic will make in the next twenty-four hours. -Tips are anxiously obtained from officers, sailors, stewards and cooks. -Every man who ever bet in his life and some who never do at home, back -their opinions with their money. And when we are not arguing or betting -we are eating. Passengers on this line are full-fed. The day begins -with 8 o’clock breakfast, at 10:30 a lunch is served, on deck, at 1 -o’clock an elaborate lunch, at 4 o’clock tea, cakes and sandwiches are -distributed, and at 7 o’clock a course dinner. People do all of these -and eat sandwiches and stuff between times and then wonder why their -stomachs are “disturbed.” - -[Illustration] - -It takes all kinds of people to make up the world, and there are -samples of most of the varieties on an ocean steamer. Some of our -passengers are very swell and some are very bum. But they meet on -the level—provided you can call the deck of a ship level when it is -usually tilted one way or the other at an angle of 20 to 30 degrees. -In the spirit of investigation I listened to the talk of a couple of -ladies who are society leaders and members of the 400 at home. The -subjects they discussed were babies, servants and clothes, and they -talked just about like the women-folks of Kansas. There is a touch of -human nature through all of us. - -When I left home I decided not to change my watch until I got to -Europe. At Boston I was only one hour behind and could easily remember -and count on that. But every day on the ocean the clock has been -shoved up thirty-five minutes for the 400 miles traveled eastward the -preceding twenty-four hours. When it got so we were eating noonday -lunch at 8 A. M. by my watch I gave it up and turned the hands around. -When we reach London we will be about six hours ahead of Hutchinson -time, and anyone can see the ridiculous side of getting up at 2 o’clock -in the morning and going to bed at 4 in the afternoon. By a strange -coincidence the sun has changed its time for rising and setting to -agree with the ship’s clock. - -[Illustration] - -There is great system on a big ship. Everything is done just so and -no other way. I have had a hard time locating the “stewards.” I never -realized what a steward was before. We have a bedroom steward, who -looks after the stateroom, a bath steward who runs the bathroom, a deck -steward in charge of the deck, an assistant deck steward, a library -steward, a smoking-room steward, a table steward, and a few more whose -titles I can’t remember. One steward never gets on another’s line of -duty. If you want a deck chair you must see the deck steward, if you -want a blanket you must see the saloon steward, and so on. If I fall -overboard I hope the proper steward will be around, for the system is -so fine that I fear the other stewards would refuse to act until the -proper steward could be called. Each steward will be expecting a tip -when the voyage is ended, and if he weren’t a “steward,” he probably -could not get it so easily. - -[Illustration] - -Sunday we had religious service in the saloon. (Not the kind of a -saloon that Mrs. Nation holds service in.) It was the Church of England -service, but out of respect to the American passengers the reader ran -in President Roosevelt’s name in the prayer for the royal family. It -was a quiet, beautiful day and the amount of the collection was small. -I was told by an officer that when Sunday is a stormy day and the boat -acts as if it might tip over most any time, the passengers contribute -much more liberally to the offering than they do when the day is fair. -Some people go to church on board ship who never see the inside of a -church on land. I suppose they learn from the sailors the advantage of -casting an anchor out to the windward. - -[Illustration] - -We will see land in a few hours, the southwest coast of Ireland. A few -hours later we will land at Queenstown. It will be mighty good to get -one’s feet on ground that doesn’t move just when you don’t expect it -to. We will find out what has happened in the world, for we haven’t -had any news for a week. They are betting on whether or not the Jap -and Russian fleets have met during our absence from the earth. Like a -great many good things, the best part of an ocean voyage is the end. I -have enjoyed the trip very much, but if I get a chance to walk back to -America I will be mighty glad to take it. - - - - -IRELAND. - - - - -FIRST DAY IN IRELAND. - - - CORK, IRELAND, June 3. - -The first vivid impression made upon me in Ireland was the morning -after we landed. We had come ashore late at night at Queenstown, and -except for the Irish names and Irish brogue there was nothing to -indicate but that we were going through an American custom-house into -an American hotel. But when we went to breakfast up came the waiter -attired in full dress and extra long-tailed coat with a red vest. I -had always supposed the pictures of an English or Irish waiter in such -livery at breakfast was a joke. It is not a joke. It is a most serious -and proper attire, and I suppose an Irish waiter in a first-class hotel -would as soon appear to serve breakfast without any pants as without -the long swallowtail coat. And when I saw that, I knew I was far away -from home. - -[Illustration] - -A European breakfast is “rolls and coffee.” In anticipation I had -thought of hot rolls and delicious coffee. Put this down: There are no -hot rolls in Ireland, and I am guessing there will be none in Europe. -“Rolls” means plain, very plain, cold bread, hard and a trifle stale. -The coffee is bum and the cream is skim-milk. An English hotel, for -that is what Irish first-class hotels are, ought to put more into the -eating and less into the waiter’s uniform. Along with other Americans -at that first breakfast, we joined in a howl and managed to get some -eggs. - -[Illustration] - -Queenstown is one of the largest and best of the British harbors. It -has an important navy yard and several English warships are anchored -among the numerous merchant vessels. The town is on the side of a high -hill which comes down to the water’s edge, and the narrow streets go up -and down the slope at every angle except a right angle to the street -along the waterfront. The chief resources of Queenstown are sailors -and tourists, and the main occupations of the leading inhabitants -are lodging-houses and saloons. Over nearly every store is the sign, -“Licensed to sell ale, porter and spirits seven days in the week.” - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: THE IRISH JAUNTING (JOLTING) CAR.] - -There is nothing much to Queenstown except the quaintness that comes -from age and dirt, and I have seen enough American towns with the same -characteristics to make this an old story. But we walked and climbed -to the top of the hill, and there I saw a panorama spread out before -me which will stick to my memory a good long while. The large harbor, -locked on three sides and part of the fourth with land, made a blue -setting for the white of the numerous ships. Little sailboats drifted -over the quiet water and tugs and launches darted in and out among the -big vessels. Eight-oared boats from the warships, manned with uniformed -sailors from the royal navy, skimmed back and forth, the eight oars -rising and falling as one. Flags were flying from mastheads, and the -decks were lively with the work of the day. Up from the shore on every -side except where the ocean’s blue appeared, rose the greenest green -hills you ever saw, and they reached to the bluest blue sky you ever -saw, a frame for the picture which no artist could ever hope to portray. - -[Illustration] - -An Irish woman whose son had gone to America and sent back for the -mother and little sister, had never been far from home before. Leading -the little girl by the hand she was walking to Queenstown and came in -sight of the harbor from the top of the hill. The beauty of the scene -impressed her, but she added a lesson for the benefit of the daughter: -“Look at the beautiful sight and see how wonderful is the work of -Nature. See the big ships side by side, and all around them their -little ones.” - -[Illustration] - -Queenstown is the harbor for Cork, which is twelve miles up the -river Lee. It is the commercial metropolis of southern Ireland and -has furnished more policemen to America than any town of twice its -size in the United States. Of course the first thing we did was to -ride in a jaunting-car and go to Blarney Castle. The castle looks -just about as it did last summer on the Pike at St. Louis. But the -surrounding grounds are as pretty as they can be. I hesitate when it -comes to describing the park with its stately trees, its beautiful -grassy slopes crowned with wild flowers, its moss and ivy which cling -to wall and tree, covering defects, revealing charms, enhancing -beauties. The castle itself was built by McCarthy, king of Munster, -in 1446, and while of course uninhabited and in partial ruin, is in -good preservation, to make an Irish bull of it. We climbed to the top, -we reveled in the rich scene around us, kissed the blarney stone and -cheerfully gave the care-taker twice the usual fee because she said -Americans were the best people on earth. Then we had the nicest lunch -that has come our way since we left Kansas—an Irish lunch of bread -and butter, cold ham and milk. We had traveled all morning and climbed -among ruins from 12 to 2 o’clock. If you want the best lunch on earth, -no matter what it is made of, climb towers for a couple of hours. - -[Illustration] - -There are some things that are peculiarly Irish. The jaunting-car is -one of them. It is the favorite vehicle for driving. It looks like a -two-wheel cart, driver’s seat in the front end and passengers’ seats -back to back, facing outward. My fellow-traveler, Mr. McGregor, says -the Irish brogue has perverted into jaunting-car the real name, which -is jolting-car. The driver is always a good fellow and he keeps the -horse on the gallop much of the time. You have to learn to keep your -seat on a jaunting-car as you do on a bicycle. You also have to learn -to weigh the statements of your driver as to distances and legends as -you do the promises of a candidate for office. We suggested to one -that a jaunting-car driver had to lie. “We never lie, sir,” said the -Irishman. “But we stretch it a little.” - -After a week on shipboard, during which time I had patiently shaved -myself, I yearned for the comforting work of a good barber. At the -best hotel in Cork, a city of 80,000 people, I went to the best barber -shop in town. The chair was just like a common wooden kitchen chair, -only not quite so comfortable. There was a head-rest made out of a -two-by-four scantling, and when the barber pulled my head back onto -that I knew my dream of a comfortable shave was to be a nightmare. He -made the lather in a wash-basin and I think he honed the razor on a -grindstone. It cut all right when it didn’t pull out by the roots. When -the operation was finished he combed my hair with my head still back, -washed my face with cold water and rubbed it with a coarse towel. The -barber charged me twopence (equivalent to four cents). And that was my -first experience with a European tonsorial artist. Perhaps sometime in -my life I have felt cross at a barber at home because the razor pulled -or because he squirted bay rum into my eye. But in the future I will -never murmur, except to recall my experience in Cork and thank God for -American barbers. - -[Illustration] - -The day we came to Cork there was an election for poor-law guardians, -only a local affair, but I attended. The voting is by Australian -ballot just as in America. The suffrage is restricted to householders, -including those who pay a certain rent, and women vote the same as men. -The politicians at the polling-place treated me well and explained all -the methods. One of the workers told the judge that they should let me -vote, as when he had visited his brother in America they had let him -vote twice while there. I proposed that if they would let me vote for -poor-law guardians in the county of Cork I would let any of them vote -for councilman in the Fourth ward of Hutchinson. We had a good friendly -visit, and it was easy to see that Irishmen are politicians in the Old -World as well as the New. After a man or woman voted he or she was -always given a drink at the nearest place where “spirits” are sold. But -when the polls closed instead of going ahead and counting the votes, -the judges adjourned until noon the next day—the invariable custom. It -was not until the afternoon following the election when it was learned -who “stood at the top of the poll.” We couldn’t stand the pressure that -long in America. - -There were placards up all around telling the voters to “vote the -straight ticket,” “vote for the interest of labor,” and “vote for your -own interests.” The newspapers the next day told of the vicious conduct -of the opposition and the immoral practices resorted to. But as a rule -the Irish people are like Americans, accepting the result with good -feeling and promises of what will be done to the other fellows the next -time. - - - - -BY KILLARNEY’S LAKES. - - - KILLARNEY, June 8, 1905. - -We have spent four days in the Irish mountains and have ridden a -hundred miles in a jaunting-car and coach. I have had mountain scenery, -lake scenery and plain scenery for every meal in the day. I enjoy -scenery, but I fear I am getting it in too large quantities and am -having it shaken too well while taking. Sunday was spent in Glengariff, -a picturesque place where the mountains rise abruptly from the salt -water of Bantry bay. Monday we coached from Glengariff to Killarney and -Tuesday we did the lakes with a jaunting-car, slightly assisted by a -row-boat. The Irish mountains are not as high as the Rocky Mountains, -but they are a very good imitation. The Rockies are grand and -beautiful. The mountains of Cork and Kerry are pretty and beautiful. -The Irish mountains are covered with green. It is as if the Rocky -Mountains were smaller, covered with ivy and moss, dotted here and -there with whitewashed cottages and flocks of sheep, and topped with a -blue sky which is bluer than any indigo and clearer than any crystal. - -[Illustration] - -There are several ruined castles about Killarney. I am already getting -to shy at ruined castles. The proposal to visit one makes my feet -ache as an approaching thunder-storm affects some people’s corns. We -first went to Muckross Abbey, a well-preserved ruin about 400 years -old. The Muckross family, which owned the estate, has played out, -and the property has been bought by Guinness, the Dublin brewer, who -was made a lord by Queen Victoria. Whatever the earl of Kenmare does -not own around Killarney belongs to Guinness. You can imagine how -Muckross Abbey looked 300 years ago when the old monks lived there and -occupied the cells and cloister now unroofed. The banquet hall has a -big fireplace and there are dark spiral stairways running up and down -such as you read about in Ivanhoe. On the tombstones are inscriptions -telling of the virtues and sanctity of knights and lords who would be -considered tough bats if they lived nowadays and swaggered around as -they did in the good old times. I like to look at old tombstones and -wonder what the men who lie beneath them would say if they could read -the catalogue of virtues accredited to them. I always think of the -little girl who had evidently been visiting Muckross Abbey, or some -such place, and anxiously inquired if the people in those days did not -bury bad folks, as all who were interred there were supremely good. And -then the thought comes up that all of these men were great and strong -in their time, making history and imagining that they were cutting a -gash in the world. Now they are forgotten and their deeds unknown, and -they are the subjects of sportive remarks by tourists from a country -they never heard of. - -The lakes of Killarney have been praised in prose and verse, and they -are up to the advance advertising. They are not large, but they nestle -among the mountains and reflect on their clear surface the heights that -surround them. There is a legend everywhere and the Irish driver knows -them all. Here is a reasonable one: One of the O’Donohues, which family -was once the royal power in Kerry, was hunting in the mountains. He -met the devil, and the two had an altercation in which O’Donohue got -decidedly the best of the argument. The devil became so angry that he -bit a big chunk out of a mountain. O’Donohue took his shillelah and hit -the devil so hard a crack that he dropped the mouthful of mountain into -the lake. This tale must be true, for as the driver said: “There’s the -place the devil bit and it is called so to this day, and out in the -lake is the little island of rock, just as the devil dropped it into -the water.” - -[Illustration] - -Everybody who has read Tom Moore—and if anyone has not he should do -so—will remember the lines: - - “There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet - As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet.” - -The meeting of the three Killarney lakes was referred to, and Moore was -telling truth as well as poetry. The upper lake and the middle lake -narrow to small streams and flow together as they merge into the little -rosebud of a mouth which the lower lake puts up to greet them. There is -a rapid which the boat shoots for a sixpence, but it was not thrilling. -In the triangular park made by lakes and mountains are said to be -specimens of every kind of tree known. The driver told this proudly, -but when I called for a cottonwood he couldn’t produce. Then I told him -all about the wonderful cottonwood, and he promised to see the keeper -and find out why they couldn’t have one in Killarney. - -[Illustration] - -That reminds me of my experience with music. The first morning I -awoke in Ireland at Queenstown I heard the voices of a number of -sailors of the royal navy, and as the melodious sounds rolled into the -window I was surprised to realize that they were singing “Under the -Anheuser-Busch.” At the hotel in Cork the orchestra played the same. At -the theatre that night it was greeted with an encore. The driver on the -jaunting-car whistled the tune. And last night when I had made friends -with a cottager and was sitting with him by the side of a peat fire and -he was telling me of Ireland’s woes, his little girl came in and he -proceeded to show her off. First he had her sing an old Gaelic song. -Then he said, “Now give us an American song,” and she responded with -“Under the Anheuser-Busch.” - -[Illustration] - -I have hardly met an Irishman but has told me he had brothers and -sisters in America. At Glengariff the hotel proprietor said at least -2,000 young men and women had gone to America from that parish in -the last few years—the brightest and best of the young people, he -said—nearly all of them to Boston. From Killarney nearly all go -to New York. I told them how Boston and New York were ruled by the -Irish, and put the question as to why the Irish couldn’t run Ireland. -I am trying to answer that conundrum to my own satisfaction, and am -gathering ideas on the subject from everyone I meet. - -[Illustration] - -The ordinary Irish village like Killarney is a quaint picture. The -streets are narrow, mostly eight to twelve feet wide. The main street -is about thirty feet wide. Nearly all the houses are a story or a story -and a half, thatched roof, whitewashed walls, dirt floors except in -one room, low ceilings, doors and windows, full of chickens, cats and -children. I have not yet seen a pig in the parlor. The pig is kept in -a little room at one side. But the chickens have as much liberty of -the house as anybody and the goat is monarch of the outside. There is -very seldom any yard, the houses being built right up to the street. -The house is heated by a fireplace and the cooking is done in the same. -Peat is the fuel, and it is cleaner and not sooty like coal. The dirt -floor and the chickens in the house sound as though the Irish cottage -would be dirty, but the whitewash and the scrubbing-brush fight on -the other side, and you don’t get that impression. The women-folks -are always neat-looking and everybody is pleasant and cheerful. Every -window has a window-box of geraniums. There are usually so many -children that the house does not hold them, and the street is always -filled with them. Remember when you are driving through a town the -street is filled with children, and if you are an American and not -used to it your heart will be jumping into your throat for fear some of -them will be run over—but I am told they never are. - -After the chickens and the children the most novel sight is the donkeys -with their two-wheel carts, the only ordinary carriages for passengers -or freight of the people. The donkey is the size of our mountain burro, -and has the same degree of intelligent expression. All of the hauling -is done by this patient animal, and he is looked upon as a valued -member of the family. - -In riding or walking the rule of the country is the same as in -England—turn to the left. I have not yet gotten over the yearning to -grab the lines from the driver when he turns to the left to avoid a -passing carriage. Fortunately the other driver is always fool enough to -also turn to the left. I confided my trouble to an Irish driver, and he -said it was ridiculous to turn to the right. - -[Illustration] - -One of my traveling companions is a man who chews tobacco, and he had -neglected to lay in a supply before leaving America. No one else used -the weed that way and there was no help for him. The Irish chew and -smoke the same plug tobacco, very dry and not tasting like American -tobacco. For a week my friend had been looking through shops trying -to find something that would touch the spot. Last night soon after -reaching Killarney he came to me greatly excited and said, “Hurry! the -finest scenery since we left home.” Away we went down the narrow street -and up to a window in which was a familiar shape and a sign, “Battle -Ax.” I don’t chew myself, but I have some bad habits, and I could -appreciate the tear of joy that glistened in my fellow-traveler’s eye -as he gazed on that sign and felt that he had met an old friend just -from home. - - - - -IRELAND AND THE IRISH. - - - DUBLIN, June 9, 1905. - -In my short stay in the Emerald Isle I have endeavored to find out what -is the matter with Ireland. Why is it that a country of great beauty -and resources, with a healthful and productive climate, an intelligent -and attractive people, is a country where poverty is widespread, -although disguised by picturesque surroundings, and is accepted in -such a matter-of-fact and almost nonchalant manner? Why is it that the -population of Ireland is decreasing while the number of successful -and prosperous Irishmen is rapidly increasing in America, Canada, and -Australia? A very intelligent Irishman at Glengariff told me why it -was, and this in brief is his story: - -A thousand years ago Ireland was ahead of all neighbors in education, -religion, and refinement. Then came the civil wars between the -chieftains. Then came England, and by utilizing the demoralization of -the civil wars and playing one chieftain against another, acquired -sovereignty. But this was only nominal, for the Irish chieftains -did not submit permanently. In Glengariff country the O’Sullivans -maintained practical independence. Finally the English rulers adopted -the policy of confiscating the land of the rebellious chieftains and -giving it to English soldiers and queen’s favorites. In many places -this meant the massacre of the people. The O’Sullivans and their -fighting men who escaped went to France and continued to strike at -their Saxon foes. But the land passed into the ownership of strangers, -who kept it only for the profit they could get out of it. The new -Irish nobles lived in London and their agents ran the estates. When -the nobles needed more money their agents advanced the rents. If the -people who tilled the soil and whose tenancy had been unquestioned for -generations, could not pay, they were evicted. Families were ejected -from the places they had cultivated and made valuable and were set out -on the road. This was done not without fighting for their rights by the -Irish people, but by the superior force of English soldiers. No Irish -farmer owns his place—he is only a tenant at the mercy of his absentee -landlord, who does not know him. In other countries the feudal tenure -has not worked so harshly, because the landlords lived among the people -and were bound to them by ties of race, common history, and natural -affection. But the fact that there was no way for an Irishman to get -his own home, or have a reasonable chance to advance in fortune or -freedom, sent the brightest to America, and left the others to struggle -hopelessly along, knowing that the best they could do was to “pay the -rent,” which was fixed like some railroad charges in the United States, -on the basis of “all the traffic would stand.” - -From the parish of Glengariff more than half the young men and at -least half the young women have gone to the land of promise across the -sea, and are sending back money to help the parents and brothers and -sisters at home, either to “pay the rent” or to pay their passage to -America. - -What is true at Glengariff applies to the rest of Ireland. The ancient -chieftains, the O’Sullivans, the O’Donohues, the McCartys and the -rest, were succeeded by absentee landlords, and the law of supply and -demand backed up by the English army simply worked out. At Killarney -whatever land does not belong to the earl of Kenmare is the property -of Guinness. The lakes and rivers are full of fish, but no Irishman -can catch a fish; the mountains are full of game, but no one can hunt -it except the owner of the estate. The farms are well tilled, but no -one can buy the land upon which he works. It makes an American mad, -and he says, “How do you stand it?” But it is the law, and along every -country road there is a policeman and behind the policeman is the power -of England. Far up on the mountain-side, several miles from town or -settlement, I saw a fine stone building which on inquiry I found was a -police station. The police, or the constabulary, as they are called, -were not there to protect the lives of the citizens, but to prevent -hunting and fishing in the brooks and mountains. So, after all, it is -no wonder the Irishman leaves his beautiful island and emigrates to -America. - -[Illustration] - -The Irish have kept the English Parliament in an uproar for a -generation on this land question, and in recent years they have -secured some friendly legislation. A court can now fix the rent rate -on appeal—but the English government names the court. So far as -Englishmen of the present day are concerned they would be glad to get -out of the Irish problem and let the Irish have their land, but of -course that can’t be done. The present parliament provided a plan for -the eventual purchase of land by tenant, at a price to be fixed by the -court if the two parties cannot agree. This is a step in the right -direction and the Irish are glad of it, but as my Glengariff friend -said, “It will not do any good in this generation.” And the exodus to -America continues. - -[Illustration] - -The Irish are very intelligent. I do not think the poor people of any -other country are naturally so bright and so full of perception and -understanding. They are kind and gentle. They are affectionate and -patriotic. The English say they are “lazy,” but under the circumstances -you could hardly expect them to be yearning for work, when more work -means more valuable holdings, and that only means more rent for the -landlord. The Irish have a reputation among the English for honesty. -They are religious, and I thought at first they gave too much to the -church and did not keep enough for themselves, when I saw the large -and rich cathedrals. But, as an Irishman told me, “We’d rather give to -the Lord than the landlord.” Public schools are providing education -for the rising generation, and in the public school the boys and girls -are being taught the Irish language and prepared for the coming fight -which the Irish must make to capture Ireland—not probably for an -independent government, but for actual ownership of the Irish soil. - -[Illustration] - -Taxes are heavy. The burden of taxation is the income tax. “That falls -on the landlord,” the thoughtless might say. Not on your life. The tax -is simply added to the rent. There are fine public roads in Ireland, -as good in the country districts as Main street in Hutchinson will be -when it is paved. The only advantage a despotic government has over -a popular government is that it builds better roads. When the people -elect their own road bosses and levy their own road taxes I notice the -roads are not so good as when some prince or cabinet minister who does -not care what the people think, levies the tax and orders the road -built right. The Irish statesmen are struggling for Irish ownership of -Irish soil and an Irish parliament to deal with Irish affairs. They are -“getting on,” and, as I said before, they make so much trouble in the -English Parliament that I know the English would be glad to get rid of -Irish local politics and give them back their parliament, if it were -not for pride,—and the next parliament may cut out the pride. - -[Illustration] - -I want to record one fact which I was surprised to find. The Irish are -very temperate. I have been in city, town and country for ten days, -have not been careful about keeping in the nice parts of town, and -I have seen only one man under the influence of liquor, and he was -an English sailor at Queenstown. This is in spite of the fact that -every inn and grocery sells “spirits” and nearly everybody seems to -drink them if he or she has the price. Perhaps the reason is that in -Ireland all the liquor-selling is done by women—barmaids. Perhaps the -influence of women behind the bar makes for temperance. I won’t state -that as my conclusion, but just submit it for what it is worth to those -who are trying to solve the liquor question in other countries. - -[Illustration] - -Dublin is a good deal like an American city. It is full of business and -not as Irish as the inland towns or Cork, although it has statues to -O’Connell, Curran and Grattan, and will have one to Parnell. The lord -lieutenant-governor, the representative of the king, resides at Dublin, -and a big garrison of soldiers gives it an English tone. There is a -fine university, which we visited. It was started by Queen Elizabeth, -and has only recently been opened to Catholics and to women. Dublin has -some great stores where Irish linen and Irish lace should naturally be -cheap. If Mrs. Morgan were writing this letter she could add a chapter. -I will only tell this little story: I was telling an Irish driver how -nice everybody had been to us in Ireland and how pleasant the Irish -were to Americans. “Yis,” he said. “Whin you go down the strate, -everybody sez: ‘There’s some Americans, God bless ’em: mark up the -prices on the linen and lace.’” - - - - -FRANCE. - - - - -THE CITY OF PLEASURE. - - - PARIS, FRANCE, June 19, 1905. - -Since my last letter to The News we have been “going some,” and I will -leave a few ideas I may have gleaned about England until I get back -there on my return from the continent. We are pushing for a short visit -to Italy before the summer gets too far advanced. - -To use a classical expression, Paris is a bully sort of a town. If -there is anything you want and don’t know where it is, I am satisfied -you will find it in Paris. In England it was customary to close up and -go to bed sometime after midnight and to rest on Sunday. Nobody in -Paris thinks of either proposition. The only difference between Paris -at midnight and Paris at midday is that it is livelier at midnight. The -performance is continuous and it is worth the price of admission. - -[Illustration] - -Coming into a country where your language is not generally spoken is -always a little trying on the nerves. The French people have made it -as easy as possible, but the ways are strange and the helpless tourist -can only do as others do and trust to Providence and the power of a -little money distributed as well as possible. I do not know how much -Providence has had to do with it, but I do believe there are mighty few -doors in France which a piece of money will not unlock. When I came -into France I knew only two French expressions, one meaning “How much?” -and the other, “Thank you.” With that vocabulary we went through the -custom-house examination, a five-hour railroad journey, landed in a -big city station, got a carriage, reached the hotel and an interpreter -without any more trouble than we would have in Sterling. Of course -everybody from conductor to porter knew we were Americans and could -not speak French, knew what we ought to do next and showed the way, -and all we had to do was to look pleasant and hand out small change. -And it doesn’t cost much to be liberal in France. I gave the conductor -an equivalent to our 10 cents, and I know he thought I was rich. The -porter who took my baggage through the custom-house and brought me a -carriage was deeply impressed with my financial standing when I gave -him 6 cents worth of French coppers. The coachman who brought Mrs. -Morgan and myself with four big grips from the station to the hotel, -two miles, charged me the full price, 30 cents for everything, and -when I tossed him another dime like a millionaire he took his hat off -three times. The French people I have met have been very polite. They -always tip their hats and go out of their way to show me, and they are -never so discourteous as to refuse 2 cents. Imagine giving a Santa Fe -conductor 10 cents for showing you where to sit in the car! - -[Illustration] - -As a lesson in political economy I will put in my observation so far -as I have gone: Everything in Europe that is made or done by labor is -cheap. I was offered a tailor-made suit of clothes in London for $18 -that would cost $30 in Hutchinson. A farm laborer in England gets about -50 cents a day and boards himself. The barber shaves you for 2 or 3 -cents. Bread and meat are higher than in the United States. You can -see how the wage-earner gets it going and coming. I am learning a few -things from experience that I had been told before, but I want to visit -a few more places before I try to form my conclusions and put them into -print. - -Paris is a beautiful city. In spite of the great business houses, the -manufactories and the banks which I have seen, it strikes me as a kind -of play town. Every day in the week in Paris looks like an American -town on the Fourth of July, and on Sunday it is Fourth of July and -Christmas together and then some. The men who are working at wages -that would make Americans vicious, are as light-hearted and pleasant -appearing as a Sunday school picnic. The women are as vivacious as a -lot of school ma’ams at institute. As soon as work is completed it -seems as if every Parisian only goes home to put on his good clothes -and then comes down town accompanied by his wife, or somebody’s wife. -Half the places of business along the principal streets are restaurants -and a good many of the others are also restaurants. The Frenchman -sits at a little table on the sidewalk in front of the café and puts -in the evening drinking one glass of wine or absinthe, chatting with -his neighbor and watching the women go by with their good clothes -and bright faces. Every French woman is an artist when it comes to -clothes. The goods may not cost much, but the gown is tastefully made, -and if the lady wants to she sticks on a bow or jabs a flower in her -hat, regardless of every rule except that it looks pretty there—and it -always does. Bright and light gowns, hats that are up-to-date or ahead, -hair to match the hat and hose to match the dress—and the artist’s -work is done. No wonder the men hurry down town and sit on the sidewalk! - -[Illustration] - -In the afternoon and evening the Paris streets look like a spring -millinery opening—also like a display of samples of fine hosiery. -Perhaps I ought not to go into the subject, but it will not be a fair -description of Paris if I leave it out, and I must warn any other -Kansan who may venture this way. When a Parisian lady walks along a -sidewalk that is perfectly clear and clean she daintily lifts her dress -so as to display only the top of the shoe, maybe an inch or two more. -Sometimes she thoughtlessly raises the gown a little higher. When she -reaches the street-crossing—but I had better stop, for she doesn’t. I -have always been of the opinion that under such circumstances a plain, -respectful man should look the other way and I have a crick in my neck -from looking—the other way—since I came to Paris. Remember this is in -fine weather when the walks and crossings are clean. “They say” that -when the walks are muddy the result is even more startling to a staid -observer from Kansas. If the weather gets bad I don’t know what I will -do. - -[Illustration: IN PARIS: LOOKING THE OTHER WAY.] - -The philosophy in the above is that it gives you an idea of Paris -with its brilliantly lighted streets, the men eating and drinking, -sitting at the little tables along the walks, the well-dressed people, -the brilliant colors, the laughter, the bright and polite conduct of -men and women, the holiday appearance, the pleasure that everyone is -having, and the general gait at which Parisians travel. As another -example let me add, fully one-third of that part of Paris which in -any other city would be devoted to business, is given up to public -gardens, playgrounds for children, parks and drives,—not out in the -country or to one side, but right through the center of Paris. The -houses, business and residence, are none of them more than six stories -high, and I am told the law does not permit higher structures. It is -a good idea, for you get air and sunlight, which you often do not -in New York and Chicago, and you can occasionally see out over the -city. About every so often is a circle or square from which radiate -from six to a dozen avenues and boulevards. These streets divide into -others which reach forward to other squares, and are intersected at -every conceivable angle by cross-streets. The object of this plan was -to place artillery in the square and thus command the streets and -boulevards against the revolutionists, who have always been doing or -about to do something in Paris. The houses, five or six stories high, -are built right up from the sidewalk, and have inner courts. Usually -there are stores or shops in the downstairs rooms facing the street -and living-rooms back and above. And speaking of stores, most of them -are about ten by twelve feet, one-half display window. The interior -is lined with mirrors which make the room look large and two or three -customers like a crowd. The French use mirrors every chance—there are -three beautiful mirrors in our small bedroom. The shops are generally -decorated with flowers, pictures and statuary and a sign “English -spoken,” the latter being usually a delusion and a snare. Instead of -naming a street or avenue and then sticking to it, the names of the -streets frequently change. The boulevard our hotel is on begins as -the Madeleine, runs two blocks and then becomes the Capoucins, two -blocks more and it is the Italiens. We are on the Capoucins part, -and besides the Boulevard des Capoucins, there is street “Rue des -Capoucins,” and a square “Place des Capoucins,” each in a different -section. The necessity of a stranger in Paris keeping sober is very -apparent. The streets, squares and public buildings are adorned -with frequent statues—good ones. Almost any way you turn there is -something beautiful to look at. The French are artists and lovers of -art. If there were such a thing as a Kansas joint in Paris it would be -decorated like an art gallery. But the joints in Paris are open and run -twenty-four hours a day, seven days in the week, and the police never -interfere with anything that goes on except in case of a disturbance of -the peace or abuse of the government. - -[Illustration] - -The French like Americans and don’t like the English or the Germans. -But that does not mean they refuse anybody’s money. In our country when -a man gets a comfortable income he grows gray-haired and wrinkled -trying to make more. A Frenchman spoke to me of this trait, and said -that when one of his countrymen reached the point where he could live -nicely on what he had accumulated or the salary he was receiving, he -quit worrying and took to the cafés and boulevards to enjoy life. -Perhaps the French way is the best, at least the French look happier -over mighty little than we do over much more. They go in for “pleasure” -and they enjoy it as do no other people I have seen. - - - - -PARIS AND PARISIANS. - - - PARIS, June 20, 1905. - -Almost the first thing we did after we reached Paris was to go to -the Place de la Concorde, where the guillotine did its bloody work -during the French Revolution. It is now a beautiful square adorned -with statues, and is the center of the pleasure-ground of Paris. After -tightly shutting our eyes so as to avoid seeing the gay Parisians -passing by, we recalled the terrible scenes which took place a little -more than a hundred years ago. Here Louis XVI., the unfortunate -king, paid the penalty for the crimes of his family and class. Here -Marie Antoinette was executed, and scores and hundreds of the French -nobility. Poor Marie Antoinette, who always did and said the wrong -thing, has been the recipient of the sympathy of the world. But in -addition to the sorrow for her I have never been able to get over my -sympathy for the thousands of women who marched to Versailles and -when the king and queen appeared to quiet them, cried, “Give us bread -for our children!” For France at that time was suffering as no other -nation has suffered from physical oppression and poverty resulting -from misgovernment and utter disregard of the lives and property of -the people. In order to carry on wars and build monuments and palaces -and indulge in personal dissipation and pleasure, the rulers of France -had sucked the life of the nation like the juice from an orange. The -French still make a great fuss over Louis XIV., “The grand monarch,” -who made France the leading nation of Europe. But it was the logical -outcome of his methods and grinding government that resulted in -the degradation of the people, their poverty and distress, and the -revolution which sent his great grandson to the block. - -After the French Jacobins executed their king and queen they began -to fall out and “revolute” against each other, and so nearly all the -leaders of the revolution went to the guillotine and got it where Louis -and Antoinette did—in the neck. In a little more than two years over -2,800 persons perished here by the guillotine, and the place is very -appropriately called “de la Concorde.” Around the square are statues -representing eight of the cities of France, the one for Strassburg -still there, but draped in black and with emblems of mourning for the -city and province taken from France by Germany at the end of the last -war. Every Frenchman has in his heart the intent to lick the Germans -and recover Alsace. - -[Illustration] - -I will not attempt to describe in detail the great palaces of the -Tuileries and the magnificent gardens, the Louvre with its acres of -paintings and statuary, most of which I did not see because it was -like eating pie—there is a limit. These are historic grounds, for -back and forth among statues of peace and beautiful works of art -the French people have fought each other time and again, sometimes -destroying but always rebuilding. From Place de la Concorde extends the -Champs-Elysées (pronounced Shame-on-Lizzy, as near as I can get it). -This is a great avenue 400 yards wide and over a mile long, consisting -of parallel boulevards running through trees and flowers, playgrounds -and palaces here and there, and at all times of the day and night -filled with people and carriages. - -The Champs-Elysées and the Bois de Boulogne, a park of over 2,000 acres -in which it terminates, are the fashionable drives of Paris. It cost -only 40 cents an hour for Mrs. Morgan and I to drive with the Parisian -élite, and we took advantage of the opportunity to see Paris society. -The carriages in the early evening extend in procession over miles of -boulevard, and are often six or eight abreast. The drives wind around -through woods, by good-sized lakes, along sides of cascades, and the -carriages are filled with the swellest lot of gowns and cutest little -dogs I have ever seen. Nearly every woman has a dog on her string -as well as a man. In all of this style there is a general lack of -formality which is appropriate to the scenery. It is not an uncommon -sight to see the ladies and gentlemen with their arms around each -other. It isn’t so bad when you get used to it, and the fashion is -considered strictly proper in France. I am no longer shocked when I -see a young man just ahead of me in the street put his arm around his -girl, and in the street cars and automobiles the sight is a frequent -one and never attracts comment or disapproval. At first Mrs. Morgan and -I nudged each other at such things, but in less than a week’s time the -novelty has disappeared. - -I like the Champs-Elysées, for it looks a good deal as First avenue in -Hutchinson would if it were about ten times as wide and the city kept -up the parking. - -[Illustration] - -And that leads me to repeat an observation which I have made before. It -takes a strong government to do big things. You couldn’t get the people -in America to put up money to construct palaces, widen boulevards, set -up statues in all directions and devote the main part of the city to -trees, flowers, walks and drives, playgrounds and art galleries. But -whether the government of France has been a monarchy or a republic -has made no difference in the fact that it exercised nearly absolute -power over such things. The government appoints the officials in all -cities and provinces and the government has the army. We talk about -“government ownership” as if it were something new. The government -of France has been in business more than a century. For example, the -government has the monopoly of the tobacco business—manufactures and -sells all the tobacco used in France, charges what it pleases and -puts out mighty poor stuff. The government has owned the Sèvres china -decorating factory for over a century, and the Gobelin tapestry, and I -don’t know how many more such things. Lack of knowledge of the language -has kept me from finding out all on these subjects I am going to before -I get home, but it seems to me that whenever the French government -sees some exceptionally profitable business, it just takes hold of -the proposition and passes a law forbidding anyone else competing. -The French are used to this sort of thing and accept it as the -inevitable. I wonder if Americans would stand for it and for all the -petty regulations that go with it. An army of workingmen is required -to maintain all these parks, palaces, art galleries, opera-houses and -government institutions, and I suspect the number is never reduced. A -friend was telling how in a short ride on a government railroad his -ticket was examined by five conductors. We reached the conclusion that -this work, which in America would have been done by one man, was strung -out for the good political reason—more jobs. Of course nothing like -that would happen in America. - -[Illustration] - -The workingmen still wear the long blouse outside the trousers, which -looks like a heavy night-shirt and reaches below the knees. At the -time of the great revolution the workingmen were so poor that they -could not afford to wear trousers and the long blouses were all that -covered them. Hence came the nickname “sanscullottes,” meaning “without -breeches,” and as all who have read the story of the revolution or -Victor Hugo’s books will remember, the Sansculottes, the men without -breeches, made up the mob which upset the throne and established the -republic. - -[Illustration] - -The French still worship Napoleon. They have forgiven the sacrifice of -blood and treasure which he forced from them, and remember the glory -and the greatness of the empire. And in spite of the fact that Napoleon -III. quit the emperor business under a cloud, having been removed -from office after his surrender to the Germans in 1870, he is well -thought of, for during his reign France and Paris prospered and times -were good. There is a large party in France that favors the return of -the present representative of the Napoleon family, Prince Victor, to -the throne. We went to the Church of Madeleine, the most beautiful and -fashionable church in Paris, and over the altar is a beautiful painting -of Napoleon receiving the crown from the pope, with Christ in the -background of the picture. That is just like the French. - -[Illustration] - -I made an effort to get into the meeting of the Chamber of Deputies, -the French congress, but failed. You have to have a ticket of -admission, and it must be applied for several days in advance. They -tell me the session is a good deal like an old-time Kansas Populist -convention, where everybody said what he wanted to and then everybody -was of the same opinion still. The meeting often gets so tumultuous -that the president of the body adjourns it. Such an assembly must be -guarded by careful and tactful leadership or it will end in a row. I -can’t understand French politics. There are really no parties such as -we have. A large majority favor the republic. The minority is composed -of Clericals, Bonapartists, Radicals, and Socialists. The government -party is divided into factions, and the issues are personal rather -than on economic questions. The minority is of course divided, and the -result is that the government wins somehow or other nearly every time. -If it should lose, a new cabinet would be formed; but that would be -taken from the same party as the old, and would be merely a different -lot of statesmen. The French republic is all right so long as there is -no serious trouble, but a Dreyfus incident, or a war, or hard times -might overturn the government, and nobody knows whether the monarchists -might not get on top again. The church is opposed to the policy of -the republic, which has been to decrease the power of the church, -cut off the parochial schools, and take education out of the hands -of the religious bodies. The men in France are not very religious, -leaving that part of life to the women and children. But a large and -respectable party is in opposition to the government on account of the -way it has confiscated church property and driven out the religious -orders. - -[Illustration] - -There are only a few electric lines in Paris, and they are not in the -main part of the city. The people use carriages a great deal, for they -are so cheap; and also omnibuses. The usual means of traveling in the -city, aside from the cab, is the omnibus, which is double-decked, -carrying as many people on top as inside. This seems a trifle slow to -Americans, but it works all right in Paris. The ’buses make regular -processions up and down the principal streets, and as they are nearly -always filled inside and outside, they add immensely to the Parisian -picture. There is an underground railroad and there are dummy lines -in the suburbs, but I think the people of Paris like to travel where -they can see and be seen. The cabs are victorias. Automobiles are -everywhere, and if you go to Paris to live and want to cut any ice you -must get one. - -[Illustration] - -I saw a little scene which seemed to show up Parisian character. A cab -collided slightly with another. Immediately both drivers were off their -vehicles, gesticulating and talking about 300 words a minute. As they -shook their fists and grew red in the face with the words that came so -fast they interfered with each other, I thought somebody would surely -be killed. Nobody noticed them. No one paid any attention. And finally -the two exhausted men climbed back to their places and drove on. I -know they used French words to each other that in America would have -ensured a police court trial for disturbance of the peace. A French -friend to whom I mentioned the matter said it was the invariable way, -and he thought the French method of taking out their wrath in words was -better than the American way of fighting it out. Perhaps he was right, -but as I afterward saw the scene repeated in different forms it always -occurred to me that it was childish. And that reminds me to say that -the Frenchman is in the habit of playing with his children, taking part -in their games as excitedly as they do. - -[Illustration] - -The French people are industrious and they save their money. France -is really a rich nation. Most of the money is made in what seem small -ways to Americans. The French are what we call “thrifty.” No matter -how little they earn they save something, and the whole family -works,—men, women and children. When their day’s labor is ended the -whole family goes out for a good time—cheap, or within their means. -Their natural temperaments and the beautiful surroundings make it easy -for them to do this, and it is very seldom a Frenchman leaves his -native land. He doesn’t travel much, but he believes in other people -traveling and coming to France to spend their money. He is willing to -help in the good work of separating foreigners from their cash, but he -is gentlemanly about it. I like the French people even though I can’t -understand some of the ways their minds work. - - - - -RURAL FRANCE. - - - MARSEILLES, FRANCE, June 23, 1905. - -Rural France is a picture. Seen from a car-window it is a succession of -fields and villages, at this time of year a continuous combination of -greens and white. French farms are small. I suppose twenty or thirty -acres is a big place, and many are much less than that. But the land -is fertilized, drained, irrigated and worked to the limit. The people -live in villages and not much on their own farms. Each village has a -common pasture. During the day the farmers go out onto their little -places and in the evening they return to town to spend the hours with -their neighbors and friends. The houses are all white stone with red -tiled roofs and the villages are numerous, one every two or three miles -in every direction. A farm of twenty acres is divided into strips -for various crops, so that the landscape is striped with the fields -of wheat, alfalfa, potatoes and grass, which seem to be the popular -products. Cattle are not so numerous, but sheep are plentiful, goats -abound and hogs (always white that I have seen) are on every place. -A strip of land a hundred yards wide in wheat will run across the -twenty acres, and the next strip will be some other crop, making the -hues of green vary. The most extensive crop besides grass is grapes, -and hillsides which in our country would be considered too steep and -too stony for cultivation are covered with vines. Nature is like the -French, artistic when she has a chance, and the combination produces a -beautiful effect. Coming from Paris to Marseilles through the valleys -of the Seine and the Rhone, it was 500 miles of continuous agriculture -and pretty towns. Do you wonder it looks like a picture, with the -villages of white houses and red tops, the fields and hills of green, -and the rivers like ribbons running here and there? - -France is ahead of England and Ireland in this point: Nearly every -French farmer owns his own place, even if it is small. In Great Britain -the big landlords own the land and rent it to tenants. In France the -farmers, or peasants, as they are called, are landlords of their own if -it is small. The French nobility lost their possessions and they were -bought up by the people. A French farmer does not have the opportunity -to make himself a large land proprietor. He can work all his days and -only hope to accumulate a little place and enough to take care of him -in his last days. But he is able to do that, and it has been almost -impossible to do so in Great Britain. - -The farms are separated from one another by high stone walls. In -driving along the highway these walls shut off the view of the fields -and you have to get up above the walls to see the picture. The stone -walls are the evidence that the place is the exclusive property of -the owner. The grass field is inclosed by these high fences, and the -gates are locked at night as if they were afraid somebody would steal -the land. It looks strange indeed to a tourist from the land of -quarter-sections and barb wires. - -Every Frenchman has to serve in the army three years. This is not -militia service, but regular soldiery. It takes three of the best -years out of a young man’s life. Of course it gives some compensation -in the way of discipline, and in continental Europe every nation has -to keep its pockets full of rocks and its people ready for war with -the neighbors. A republic cannot neglect this matter any more than a -monarchy, and France loses a great deal by the withdrawal of its young -men from the producing class during a time when they could be very -useful. - -[Illustration] - -In the fields men and women work side by side. The women of France have -plenty of rights. They can plow or rake hay all day long, and then they -can indulge in the recreation of housework in the evening. This is -harvest-time, and on nearly every farm I saw the whole family at work, -not with reapers and mowers, but with good sickles and hand-rakes. -The women seem to age earlier than in America, but this fact is true -wherever I have been outside of the United States. - -That reminds me of a mistaken notion I had before coming here. I -thought the women of the United States were more active in a business -way than the women of other countries, and had progressed in taking -hold of what is generally called “men’s work” more than the women of -Europe. That is a mistake. Proportionately women have more to do with -business in England and France than they do in America. Nearly all -the hotels in Great Britain are managed by women. Shops, stores and -offices are filled with women. The fact is, the combined labor of -husband and wife is necessary among “the great plain people,” to get -enough to support the family, and in Ireland, England and France this -is taken as a matter of course. Especially in France do I find women -managing business, and doing so with the skill and success which shows -that it is neither a new thing nor a side occupation. In America it is -generally accepted that a man who can do so will take the brunt of the -work and a woman will find her time fully occupied with housekeeping. -And there is also a widespread practice of raising the girls to sit in -the parlor while their mother washes the dishes. That is not the way -they do in France. A young woman is brought up to expect what she will -get—a young man whom she will have to help, or they will go hungry. -There are not many chances for a young man to get ahead fast. He has -no reason to believe that he will be better fixed than his father or -than his grandfather. In fact, in France a boy usually follows the -occupation of his father, so that a family for generations will be -farmers, shoemakers, shopkeepers, etc. In America a farmer usually -wants his son to study law, while a lawyer hopes his son will be a -business man, and a merchant sees the advantage of rural life. Our -people change around from generation to generation, and I doubt on that -account if we make as good workmen as the French do, who are brought up -in their occupation. Of course our people would be discontented with -the French way, but the Frenchmen seem to be satisfied and they get -a good many compensating advantages to offset the opportunities which -young Americans have, but of which young Frenchmen never dream. - -[Illustration] - -There are some disadvantages under which these Europeans labor which -they should remove. They never get any pie. Here in a land where the -cherries grow big and red and juicy, a Frenchman will grow to manhood -and old age without knowing the taste of cherry pie. It is a great -misfortune. Since landing in Europe I have never seen a piece of pie -of any description, from Queenstown to Marseilles. They have “tarts” -and “sweetmeats,” but these can’t approach pie any more than Cow creek -can be compared to the Mississippi river. Even in the best hotels and -restaurants of London there is no sign of pie on the bill of fare, -and the French cooks, who can make old hash taste like choice bits of -fresh meat or better, have not learned the science of constructing -pie, mince, apple, pumpkin, cherry or any kind of pie. I do not know -how they do it, but the railroad restaurants are run without pie. Even -the crowned heads go through life without knowing the taste of pumpkin -pie, and one of my ideas of royalty in my early days was that a king or -prince could have custard pie with flaky brown crust three times a day. -No wonder the rulers of Europe are afraid of revolution. If they would -see that their subjects had square meals and pie at least for dinner, -the heads that wear the crowns need not be so uneasy. - -And the Europeans are trying to live without hot cakes for breakfast. I -suppose there is not a man or woman in Europe who would recognize by -experience the rich and regal buckwheat cake, or the corn cake, or the -pancake. I can’t understand why the reformers in this country do not -get to the point, and see that the people have flapjacks for breakfast -as well as pie for dinner, and then let the disbanding of the armies -proceed. - -[Illustration] - -Every American citizen who is sane and patriotic believes that he is -a fisherman, and tries to prove it whenever he gets near a creek or -river. Whether he actually catches any fish or not, he “goes fishing.” -I was somewhat worked up in Ireland and England because the streams -were nearly all private property and the ordinary citizen had no chance -to fish any more than he did to attend the wedding of the prince. I was -glad to know that it is different in France. Last Sunday in Paris we -walked along the banks of the Seine as it runs through the city between -the stone walls and under the stone bridges. The stream was lined with -fishermen. One of the privileges the citizens of Paris enjoy is to fish -in the Seine, and I was told that there were at least 10,000 Frenchmen -watching the corks on the river that afternoon. I waited for a long -time to see them catch a French fish. Occasionally one of the men or -women would pull up a line, but the bait was never missing. Finally I -asked a friend who has been in Paris some time if anybody ever caught -a fish. He said he had never really heard of anyone but there was a -tradition that along about the time of Napoleon III. somebody did -catch a fish in the Seine. He doubted the story, but said I could -believe it if I wanted to. And yet there are theologians and doctors -of divinity who say the French people are losing in faith, when these -thousands were demonstrating to the contrary and were heartily enjoying -the privilege the government gives and for which the Parisians would -doubtless fight, the right to fish in the river. - -[Illustration] - -This city of Marseilles, in which we are spending a couple of days, is -the principal seaport of France. It was established by the Phœnicians, -and was an important town when Julius Cæsar was setting up the -primaries in Rome. It is the port from which France does business with -southern Europe, Africa, Asia, and even America. Consequently the -harbor is full of all kinds of shipping, the streets are crowded with -Arabs, Greeks, Spaniards, Turks, Italians, and representatives of all -nations which use the sea, and the town has the largest collection of -odors and smells that I have met. As a strange fact I will add that -Marseilles is the first large city I have visited in Europe with a good -up-to-date electric railway system. Americans do not come here very -much. So far as I know, Mrs. Morgan and I are the only Americans in the -city, and there is not a soul at our hotel who can speak English. So -you see we are running up against a little real foreign experience. - - - - -ITALY. - - - - -GETTING INTO ITALY. - - - ROME, June 27, 1905. - -One can hardly realize until he has had some experience how quick -and how decided is the transition from one country to another, and -especially the change in language. At 5 o’clock yesterday afternoon we -were in France, everybody around us and on the train talking French. -At 6 o’clock we were in Italy: everybody was talking Italian, and the -French language had disappeared as quickly as did the English when -we landed at Calais. You know when you are going from one country to -the next, also, because the custom-house is on the line and you have -to haul out all your dirty clothes and souvenirs for the officials to -examine to see if you are a smuggler. Let me tell how we came into -Italy. - -[Illustration] - -We boarded the train on the French railroad at Monte Carlo and had -an hour’s ride to the frontier. By this time I had picked up enough -French so I could get along reasonably well with the help of the -sign language and a little money. But neither of us knew a word of -Italian, and there was no one with us that day who could talk English. -At Vintimille, where we crossed the line, we had to change trains, -have our tickets signed and our baggage examined in forty minutes. -With a full realization that nobody could understand me and I could -understand no one, I tackled the job, putting my trust in Providence -and a pocketful of small Italian coins which I had secured at Monte -Carlo. When the train stopped in the Vintimille station a porter came -alongside and according to the custom of the country I handed the four -“bags” which constitute our baggage to him through the car-window. Then -we got out and I told him in English what I wanted. He reeled off a lot -of Italian and two or three bystanders chipped in, and a hotel runner -attempted to capture us. But I took out my through ticket, pointed -to it, jingled the coins in my pocket, and the porter understood. Of -course I did not know at first whether he did or not, but we followed -him and he led us into the custom-house and put our grips on a big -table. Up came an inspector and jabbered Italian and I jabbered back -in English. We both laughed, and of course neither understood what the -other wanted. He asked me several questions, to all of which I said, -“Can’t understand,” and then he gave me a final grin and said, “Tobac?” -To that I said “No,” and shook my head. Without looking into the grips -at all he chalked something on them which I suppose corresponds to our -“O. K.,” threw up his hands and said something to the porter which made -him and the surrounding onlookers burst forth in a loud guffaw. I felt -as I suppose a poor Dago does when he strikes America. I again showed -my ticket to the porter and pointed to the place where it must be -signed. He puzzled over that a while and then took it and went away for -a few minutes and came back with the work properly done. Then he took -us to the Italian train the other side of the station, put our bags in -the racks and we hoped we were on the right train—we were. I gave that -porter a lot of Italian money, aggregating about 20 cents American, -and he saluted me as if I were a duke or a saint. Mrs. Morgan says I -spoiled him with my extravagant tip. But I felt so grateful to him that -I didn’t care if I did make him proud with all that money at once. Let -him swell up inside and parade the avenue all the evening and take his -family out to dinner if he wants to. Let him take that 20 cents and -pose as an Italian Rockefeller. - -Then we were in Italy and couldn’t even read the signs. It makes you -foolish to look over the door of your car and see the words which mean -“Smoking permitted,” or “Smoking forbidden” and not know which. We were -the only people in the compartment, and the conductor took a great deal -of interest in us. He tried to tell us something and I tried to tell -him something, but when we got through neither of us had added to our -stock of knowledge. After the train had been going for a while he came -to us and began to make signs and chatter. He held up both hands with -the fingers extended. Mrs. Morgan was quite sure he meant $10 fine for -smoking in that compartment, so I threw away my cigar, but he didn’t -stop. At last I realized that he was making the signs of a man eating -and drinking. I guessed he meant by both hands that the train would -stop ten minutes for lunch, or that we wouldn’t get anything to eat -until 10 o’clock. When the train stopped at the next station it turned -out that the first of these two was right. - -The road from Vintimille to Genoa is a branch, and the ticket had to -be signed and trains changed again at Genoa, and we also wanted to get -a sleeping-car on to Rome. We had twenty-seven minutes at the station -in Genoa, which is bigger than the Union Depot at Kansas City. Again -I threw the grips out of the window and followed the porter. Then I -left Mrs. Morgan with the baggage while the porter led me a merry chase -around the block to the office where the ticket was to be signed or -“viséd.” It was 11 o’clock at night, and you can imagine how it felt -to be guided around among those Italians wondering all the while if -the porter knew what I wanted. But he did and I returned in safety, -and then I tried to find out about the sleeping-car. In French this -is called a “Litts-salon,” and in German a “Schlaf-wagen,” literally -a sleep-wagon. I tried English, French and German, but finally found -the sleeper by examining the train,—next to the engine, of course, -just where I wasn’t expecting it. We got on board safely, and after -distributing a lot more Italian coppers I found we had transacted the -business and had five minutes to spare,—as good time as I could have -made in America to do all those things. All I then had to do was to -hand out the required sleeper fare, $7.50 to Rome, 300 miles, three -times what Mr. Pullman would have charged. But I reserve my comments -on European sleeping-cars until I get a little more experience for a -letter on railroads in the Old World. - -And this is an old world. When I was in Boston I looked with awe upon -the churches and monuments of 1776. In England these years seemed -recent, and it took a cathedral or a castle of Elizabeth’s time or back -to William the Conqueror. But here in Rome the very latest and newest -buildings that we look at are those of the early Christians, and to get -a real thrill they have to show me something B. C. It is really a good -deal like living back in those times. I can’t read the newspapers and -don’t know what has happened since I left Paris nearly a week ago. At -that time the Russians and Japs were either going to have a conference -or a fight, or both. Sometimes I wonder what has occurred, but -generally I am concerning myself with what Julius Cæsar did, standing -by the old forum and imagining Mark Antony denouncing the boss-busters, -or wondering if Cicero’s speech against Catiline was not a political -blunder which would make the old man trouble at the next city election. -The only difficulty is to make the modern Italians fit in with the old -Romans. Somehow or other it is hard to imagine the lazy gents who hold -out their hands for coppers as real Romans who ruled the world. - -[Illustration] - -The first real striking feature of Italy we noticed at Vintimille was -the policemen. They wear handsome full-dress uniforms with red braid -down the trousers, gilt lace and epaulets on the coats, tri-cornered -hat with an immense plume, and carry in sight a sword and revolver. -An Italian policeman walking his beat makes a gorgeous Knight Templar -uniform look cheap. You never see one policeman—there are always -two together. The police of the whole country are appointed by the -royal government, not by local officials, and are selected from the -army. They are good-looking fellows, and wear their tight, heavy coats -buttoned up in front regardless of the fact that it is Italy and -the climate is not better than Kansas the last of June. One of the -troubles with Italy is that it is really a second-class power, but it -tries to keep up an army and navy in rivalry with Germany, Russia, -and France. Every Italian must put in three years in active service. -Take a country about the size of Kansas, fill it up with an army of -300,000 men and you see soldiers in every direction. Immense cathedrals -and palaces filled with valuable gems and works of art, an army of -expensive uniforms, and a poverty-stricken people,—that is Italy. -The tourist hurries along and shuts his eyes to the distress as much -as he can, visits the galleries and the churches, the ruins and the -historic spots. He tries to see only the Italy of 2,000 years ago. He -is fortunate if he can keep himself worked up in an ecstasy over the -Cæsars and the old masters, so that the half-clothed children, the -broken-down women and the men working without hope, do not leave an -impression on his heart. I can’t shut my eyes tight enough to avoid -seeing those things and sympathizing with the poor Italian people who -have no show. - -But here we are in Italy, not the Italy of to-day, but the Italy of -Cæsar and Cicero, Nero and Constantine, the Italy where Paul and -Peter planted the Christian religion and where they died the death -of martyrs; the Italy of temples and colosseums, cathedrals and -catacombs,—the Italy we read about, if you please, and not the Italy -now on the map. - - - - -ROME AND ROMANS. - - - ROME, June 29, 1905. - -There is so much in the point of view. Here are things which I have -studied about, read about, wondered about. Some of them on close -inspection are impressive yet. Others are commonplace. And there are -even some which are ridiculous. On approaching Rome I had tried to take -an inventory of the things I most wanted to see first: The Forum, St. -Peter’s, the Appian Way, the Coliseum, the Sistine Chapel, the Tarpeian -Rock, the Vatican, and the list was as long as I could set down. But -really the words that kept haunting me and which were always in my mind -were “the yellow Tiber.” Like every other school-boy of my time, I had -learned and recited “Horatius at the Bridge,” and I wanted to see the -raging torrent which saved Rome when Horatius held back the foe until -the Romans had cut down the only bridge. I kept saying to myself: - - “Then up spake brave Horatius, - The captain of the gate: - ‘To every man upon this earth - Death cometh soon or late; - And how can man die better - Than when facing fearful odds, - For the ashes of his fathers - And the temples of his gods?’” - -[Illustration: THE ITALIAN NOBLEMAN OF THE STAGE, AND THE REAL THING] - -Accordingly the first observation I made in Rome was of the Tiber. It -is yellow, all right, and about as wide as the Cottonwood river. -It seemed impossible to associate that stream with the Tiber of -which historians had told and poets sung. But it was the Tiber, all -right—from another view-point. - -[Illustration] - -Now with St. Peter’s it was different. I have seen some right nice -churches in America, but of course they do not come up to European -cathedrals. St. Paul’s in London was disappointing, and Notre Dame -in Paris was not up to the advance advertising. But when it comes -to impressiveness St. Peter’s at Rome is to my mind the greatest -imaginable. It is so big and yet so proportioned, so grand and yet so -substantial, so full of precious memories of martyrs and divines and -so tastefully and magnificently decorated with pictures that tell the -story of the faith it stands for. All the people in Hutchinson could -worship in one side of St. Peter’s, and yet there is none of that -barny, barracksy look which usually goes with great size and capacity. -The length is 232 yards, the transept is 150 yards and the height of -the nave 151 feet, the dome is 435 feet to the cross. But figures don’t -tell anything about St. Peter’s. The interior is tapestry and painting, -gold without tinsel, pictures without tawdry effect, and columns that -add and do not detract from the dignity of the structure. Under the -great dome is the tomb of Peter, the disciple who made so much trouble, -but knowing his energy and power, whom Christ made the rock upon which -the church was to be built. - -Next door to St. Peter’s is the Vatican, where the pope resides, and -the first thing we saw there was the Sistine Chapel. Here is where my -view-point differs from most people. I concede that the paintings in -the Sistine Chapel are beautiful, especially in their design and their -color. The old masters who did the work under the direction of Michael -Angelo have never been equaled in their ability to make rich color. -But I contend that the subject of a picture should count as well as -the drawing and the color. When Michael Angelo attempted to paint God -Almighty he couldn’t do it. The color is all right and the proportions -are perfect, but all that Michael Angelo did was to paint a man a -little larger than Adam, and that does not come up to my ideal of the -Divine. The fact is that neither Michael Angelo nor anyone else can put -onto canvas such a subject, and therefore Michael should not have tried -it. His fault was in his judgment of what can be painted. The entire -effect of the remainder of the beautiful ceilings and walls with their -paintings of scenes from Old and New Testament, was spoiled for me when -I couldn’t get away from that central figure, that failure of ability -to do the impossible. - -I would like to have the support of the women-folks in my theory in -regard to the failure of the Sistine Chapel, so I will add that in the -picture where Michael paints the devil, he makes the devil half snake -and the upper half a woman. If I remember correctly, the great painter -was an old bachelor,—probably not one of his own motion. - -The paintings mix up the pagan with the Christian. “The Last Judgment” -has Christ the central figure as judge, surrounded by apostles and -saints, and the hell part of the painting is according to Dante, with -the old Roman idea of the boatman Charon ferrying the lost across the -river. In this picture Michael Angelo made a hit. He put the face of -an enemy of his, an officer of the pope, on the painting of Minos, one -of the leading devils of hell. The offending official had objected to -some of the artist’s work on account of the nudity of the figures, and -Michael has sent him down the ages as the face of a devil. - -[Illustration] - -But there is no call for me to describe paintings and statuary and -cathedrals. A hasty sketch like this is not giving them fair treatment. -You can’t go anywhere in Rome without running into something beautiful -or something historic. Go down a street and there will be the baths -of Diocletian, turn around and there will be the Forum, and next is -the Coliseum, the Arch of Constantine, Trajan’s forum and column, the -Palace of Tiberius, the Stadium, and so on until you can’t rest with -the long list of things you saw and ought to remember, and some that -you ought to have seen but didn’t because you were just too tired to -look around. The Forum, the Coliseum and all this kind of things look -just like the pictures, and they are there,—that’s all I can say about -them, although the feeling of actually having seen and touched is one -of a great deal of satisfaction and worth going to Rome to have. - -I don’t know how many churches there are in Rome. There are eighty -dedicated to the Virgin and fully as many to St. Peter. They are -filled with great paintings and statuary. Rome is the center of the -greatest Christian church, and for centuries the civilized world, or -a large part of it, has sent its gifts to the temples and shrines. -Thousands and tens of thousands of young men are studying here for the -priesthood. The streets are filled with their black gowns and hats. -Here and there along the streets and roads are shrines erected to -patron saints. All the churches are open seven days in the week, and -there are always people in them at their devotions. - -As a contrast to the power and greatness of the present church we went -to see the catacombs, the burrows in the earth to which the Christians -of the early centuries fled for safety, and in which they buried their -dead. The catacombs of St. Calixtus, which we visited are said to -contain twelve miles of underground passages. Along the sides and in -the occasional niches and chapels are the places where the bodies were -put. The passages go down thirty to forty feet and the catacombs are -from four to six stories downward, just as a building is that much -above ground. In these places the early Christians kept alive their -faith under the terrible persecution of the emperors. Amid the tombs -they met and worshipped in spite of imperial decree and certain death -if captured. Rude pictures and inscriptions on the walls tell part -of the story which has made the world wonder ever since as the Roman -government did then, at the power of the faith for which men and women -would so live and so die. - -[Illustration] - -Coming out of the catacombs we drove along the Appian Way, the great -military road constructed over 300 years B. C. I had expected to have a -good thrill of enthusiasm over the Appian Way, but somehow it did not -come. The Appian Way is an ordinary good country road lined with old -houses, wine gardens, ruins and high fences. There are still a number -of villas and palaces, but the owners are poor and the basements are -usually rented out for stables and the upper apartments for tenements. -Italian noblemen are generally poor, and if they have palaces are -obliged to rent rooms and keep boarders. - -[Illustration] - -Another cherished hope of mine is gone. I had read about the beautiful -Italian peasant girls and have seen them on the stage singing in opera -and dressed in fetching short skirts and bright-colored bodices. -Italian girls work in the fields with the boys and then help their -mothers with the children, and most of them look tired and sickly. The -fetching skirts hang like loose wall-paper and the “bright bodice” -looks as if the girl was wearing her mother’s old corset outside her -clothes. - -The largest and most numerous ruins in Rome are those of the public -baths erected by the state and by the emperors. The Romans in those -days were sporty, banqueted all night and bathed all next day to get -over the effects. But there are no public baths now—at least none of -consequence. And judging by the ordinary senses of sight and smell, -bathing has become one of the lost arts with a large number of the -Romans of to-day. - - - - -VENICE, THE BEAUTIFUL. - - - VENICE, July 3, 1905. - -I suppose everybody knows about Venice, the city built in the -water. During the sixth century the “barbarians” from the north -were overrunning Italy, killing or making slaves of the people and -destroying the cities and towns. A number of the inhabitants of -northeast Italy fled for safety to a group of small islands in the -shallow bay of the Adriatic sea, and there built up little villages -which were united in a republic and became the city and suburbs which -we call Venice. They naturally were a seafaring and trading people, -and Venice was the port of commerce between the Orient and Europe. -The Crusades stimulated business, and Venice was the most important -trading-point on the Mediterranean. At that time there was no Suez -canal and no knowledge of an ocean route to Asia, and all commerce -passed through Venice. The little republic grew strong and powerful, -captured and retained possessions in Italy and the islands of the -Mediterranean. Venice was one of the powers of Europe about the -fifteenth century, and thought she had the world by the tail. But the -Turks captured Constantinople, other routes to Asia were discovered -about the time Columbus reached America, and Venice as a great -political power and business center suffered a collapse. In other -words, the boom in Venice busted and Venice has never done much on her -own account since. The first few hundred years the government was that -of a republic, but about the close of the thirteenth century the nobles -who had won leadership through trade and war declared their offices -hereditary, and thereafter Venice was an aristocracy with a president -called “the doge.” During the French Revolution the French captured -Venice, and then Austria got it, and finally, in 1868, it was united -with the kingdom of Italy, where it belongs. - -[Illustration] - -Built on islands, crossed by canals like streets in other cities, -without a carriage or a horse, Venice is a strange, and to me, an -attractive place. The railroad runs out on a long trestle bridge. It -is hardly appropriate to say “landed” in a place like Venice, but we -arrived here at ten o’clock at night. The porter for the hotel to which -we were going took us through the station and put us into a gondola, -and away we went, down back streets and under bridges, with no light -except a few corner lamps and the stars. The Venetian gondoliers may be -poetical, but their looks do not invite the confidence of the traveler -when he intrusts himself to their hands for the first time and late at -night. Little chills creep up and down your back as you see the gondola -going straight for a corner—sure to hit it, but accidentally doesn’t. -After you get acquainted with the ways of the city you learn to trust -the gondolier, but the first time, late at night, you have your doubts. -You may forget just how you arrived in other cities, but not in Venice. - -The Grand canal, the main street in Venice, is about seventy-five -yards wide and averages sixteen feet deep. The paving question does -not bother the city council in Venice. Most of their canal streets -are only twelve to thirty feet in width. There are also a few real -streets four to ten feet wide, on the inside of the blocks formed by -the canals, and the total result is a labyrinth of alleys and canals -which are impossible for a stranger to get head or tail of. Along the -Grand canal and many others the fine houses of the old prosperous -times loom up straight from the water six or seven stories. For -example, the front of our hotel, on the Grand canal, has absolutely -no sidewalk, only marble steps leading to the water, up which the -tide rises about two and a half feet twice a day. The architecture of -Venice is Oriental, and is refreshing after the Roman and Greek styles -everywhere else in Italy. The churches and public buildings, mostly -constructed between the eleventh and fifteenth centuries, have round -Moorish towers and are decorated with gold and colors and have very -ornate pillars and façades. That makes Venice a beautiful city, and -so it is,—if you don’t go into the little back alleys where you see -the undecorated side. Of the 125,000 people one-fourth have no means -of support except charity. In the last few years Venice has revived -the glass industry and has developed the lace-making, and times are -better than they were. But just think of a people where one-fourth have -no chance to earn their living! We visited one of the big lace-making -suburbs on the island of Burano. The lace, which Mrs. Morgan says is -“b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l” and over which all good women rave, is made by -girls and women who sit all day on straight-back chairs and labor over -the pillow,—and get about twenty-five cents a day wages. We visited -the glass-blowers at Murano, the finest in the world, and skilled -workmen get up to two dollars a day for a dexterity and ability which -would easily command three or four times that amount in America. The -people live mostly on fish and vegetables, are very poor and apparently -very happy. They are the best-looking folks I have seen in Italy, and -evidently enjoy the improvident life which would drive an American to -strong drink, or if he were in Italy would drive him to drink the water. - -[Illustration] - -The center of Venice is “the Piazza of St. Mark,” a square about two -hundred yards long and nearly half as wide, paved with marble and -inclosed by fine buildings, including the great Church of St. Mark, -the old palace of the doge, the present royal palace, and a glittering -array of shops. I should say there were ten thousand beautiful shops -in Venice selling lace, glass, art works, beads, curios, pictures, -etc. Of course there are not that many, but there seem to be. There -is practically nothing else of importance. Venice is a good deal like -the world’s fair grounds, all glitter and glass, Oriental towers and -marble palaces, beautiful bridges and lagoons, and everybody trying to -separate the stranger from his money. - -[Illustration] - -Venice is a night town. In the evening the canals are filled with -gondolas and everybody is out for a good time. Regular musical clubs -drift along with the sweetest Italian opera rendered with real ability, -and arias and Italian serenades and love songs until you think the -world is nothing but lights glancing on the water, drifting gondolas, -song and gladness. Every few minutes one of the singers will pass -the hat and you contribute two or three cents and remember you are -still on earth. We sit at our hotel and watch the gay crowd in the -passing gondolas, or for a few cents get into one, lean back on the -easy cushions, smoke a two-cent cigar, and forget all about these poor -people with their poverty and their fleas. They have forgotten them -themselves. - -[Illustration] - -The patron saint of Venice is St. Mark. In the early days, say a -thousand years ago and more, some doge dreamed that Venice would never -prosper until the bones of St. Mark were brought here for burial. The -bones happened to be in Asia or Africa, and for years the Venetians -put in their time fighting the Turks and trying to capture the relics. -Finally the bright idea struck them that it would be easier to steal -St. Mark’s bones than capture them by battle, and an enterprising -Venetian merchant did the job. The remains of St. Mark were brought to -Venice and a beautiful cathedral with Oriental towers and rich colors -built above them. The doge’s dream was no fake, for after that Venice -prospered greatly. Tradition says that St. Mark used to have a winged -lion for a companion, and accordingly the winged lion is the Venetian -emblem. The cathedral and the public buildings are full of Oriental -works of art captured or stolen from the Turks during the years of -the Crusades when Venice was a stronghold of Christendom. Venetian -painters have done St. Mark and the lion in every conceivable place, -and wherever you go you see his kindly face, the quill pen he used in -writing, and the playful winged lion. The only horses in the city are -of bronze, and decorate the façade of St. Mark’s cathedral. Except for -these rather poor imitations I suppose nine-tenths of the people of -Venice never saw a horse. Incidentally I will add that it is a great -advantage to live in a city where you are not awakened at daylight by -the rumble of wagons and carts over stone-paved streets. - -[Illustration] - -The government of Venice during the Middle Ages was something fierce. -Nominally a republic, it was controlled by the nobles, who had a -general assembly, which selected a senate of seventy-five, of which -there was an inner council of ten and a secret tribunal of three, who -met masked and did not know each other’s identity. If you lived in -Venice at that time and had an enemy you wanted to do away with, you -would drop a letter accusing him of treason into the letter-box shaped -like a lion’s head in the counter outside the room of the council of -three. It was a pretty sure thing that he would not be heard from -again. Of course you would have to do this first, for your enemy might -be dropping in a letter while you were thinking about it. - -We went through the rooms of the various councils down the secret -stairway and over the “Bridge of Sighs,” which connected the palace -with the prison across the canal street. This was the way the -prisoners were brought for trial, and if they went back it was to -torture and death. The jails in those times were not built for health -or sanitary purposes, and were evidently not examined by the county -commissioners. The dungeons are dark and damp, and the guide tells you -some awful stories of the rack, the thumbscrew and the block. You can -imagine the “good old days” and shudder as you think of the cruelty and -the crime. Paraphrasing Byron, who wrote some lines on the subject: - - I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, - Visions of Old from those deep dungeons rise,— - The shrieks of pain, the terrifying cries, - Then I reflect: Perhaps it’s mostly lies. - - - - -SOME THINGS ON ART. - - - VENICE, ITALY, July 3, 1905. - -Because I have not been writing much to The News on the subject of art, -it must not be supposed that I am omitting the regular work of every -tourist. Nor do I want it presupposed that I don’t know enough about -art to tell the difference between a renaissance and a vermicelli. If -industry and a desire to thoroughly do the job so it will not have to -be done a second time will count for anything, I have been an arduous -lover of art in all its forms since I passed the custom-house on the -Italian border. Everybody knows that the center of art is Italy and -that anything that isn’t old and Italian is second-class. When you -come to Italy you expect to see the heights of the artistic and you -are expected to have fits of ecstasy over the said heights. I have had -’em every time the guidebook told me to. I have endeavored in every -way to show that a plain, common citizen of Kansas knew what to do -when brought face to face with Raphael, Titian, Michael Angelo and -the other gentlemen since whose death the world has never really seen -much in art. According to my pedometer I have traveled through 171 -miles of cathedrals, 56 miles of public buildings and 85 miles of art -galleries—all in ten days. Some people may think my pedometer is too -rapid, but I know it is too slow. You know a good bird dog learns never -to “set” for anything but a game bird. And it is well established -that people with a certain kind of rheumatism can tell the approaching -changes in the weather by the twinges in their joints. And it is a fact -that even when I do not know there is a cathedral or an art gallery -within a hundred miles, let me approach one accidentally and my feet -will begin to ache. Then I know what is before me and I try to do my -duty. If the work of absorbing Italian art should prove too much for -me, the words could be as appropriately put on my tombstone as they -were over the early citizen of Dodge who died with a dozen bullets in -his body and a half-dozen enemies lying on the floor: - - HERE LIES BILL. - HE DONE HIS DAMDEST. - ANGELS COULD DO - NO MORE. - -[Illustration] - -There are three places where you always find art in Italy: First and -foremost, the churches; second, the public buildings; third, the art -galleries and museums. The churches come first, because the Catholic -Church has always been the support and promoter of art. For centuries -it was the only strong power that encouraged artists. It had the -tasteful men of the age and it had the money. The great artists both -in painting and sculpture would have had no opportunity and their -works would have been destroyed if it had not been for the church. In -return, the artists took the subjects of religion and portrayed them -most beautifully and effectively. There is hardly a church in Italy -which does not have paintings by some of those old painters which -would be worth a fortune now if they were for sale. The Catholic faith -especially appeals to the artistic sense, and the history of the church -furnished a boundless field of subjects. Walls and ceilings of churches -are covered with magnificent pictures, the exteriors are decorated -with sculpture, and the architecture of the buildings is brilliant and -effective. To see paintings, statues or architecture in Italy you first -go to the churches, and there you see the greatest and best. - -After the churches the art treasures and galleries are found in the -public buildings, and there we get what is left of the art of Greece -and Rome, together with much of a later time. The old pagan mythology -furnished most of the ancient art, together with a few attempts at -transferring abstract ideas into concrete form. Of course I don’t -want to set up as an art critic—I have trouble enough without that. -But according to the way I was raised, a large per cent. of ancient -sculpture isn’t fit to be exhibited to young folks—or to old men. -Probably the times were different and fashions in art were acute, but -the Grecian and Roman sculptors paid no attention to the rules of -common decency as generally understood in this generation. While doing -my duty in the art galleries I have actually blushed so much that -it grew noticeable to the other art critics, and I fear that I lost -standing with them. Of course I am not a regular critic, but I know a -few things, and this is one of them. - -Another objection I have to the old masters is that they never -considered any subject too big for them. I have written something of -this when I kicked on Michael Angelo attempting to make a picture of -God Almighty. There is too much of that kind of business in Italian -art. And another thing is that they couldn’t paint good animals. Some -of the pictures by the great masters have horses or lions in them, and -I believe even the horses would laugh at their own appearance. - -Aside from these unimportant objections and a trifling criticism of a -great deal of ignorance about drawing and the fitness of things, the -“old masters,” by which is meant the great painters from about 1400 to -1600, are certainly worthy of their reputation. Everybody I met knew -more about art than I did—so they thought—and everyone said: “What -wonderful color.” The old masters certainly did know how to mix paints -so as to make the most beautiful and most lasting colors. I think -Titian’s red-headed girls are the prettiest reds I have ever seen. -Raphael’s paintings cannot be criticized by me—their feeling and their -execution will make a cynical Kansan stand and admire. Michael Angelo -I did not take to so well as I did Titian and Raphael, but he did a -lot of work, and he, too, had the ability to make his pictures like -life. The other great painters of Italy in these two centuries of the -renaissance have not been equaled in any period since, and in spite of -the fact that the experience of one generation ought to help the next, -I do not believe that the modern Italian painters, or the Englishmen -and Americans who go to Italy and copy, can come within several blocks -of equaling the work of the “old masters.” - -There is one more objection I have to the “old masters,” and I would -like to tell it to their faces. They had the habit of taking a great -subject and making it a means of flattery for wealthy patrons. For -example, a picture of Christ or the Virgin sitting and talking -confidentially with some old scamp of a Medici. Of course I don’t blame -the old artists. The Medici were a lot of thugs, thieves, highwaymen, -murderers, and lovers of art. They put up handsomely for the great -masters, and undoubtedly assisted much in promoting art at a time when -the princes and nobility of Italy were not respectable according to our -standard. This flattery by the old masters may have been necessary to -make a living, but I don’t think it is Art. - -[Illustration] - -I had one objection which has been overruled on the ground that it -was simply because my apprenticeship in art had been too short. Every -artist painted a “Madonna.” Each had a different ideal or model. Mary -was a Jewess. But the Italian artists nearly all ran in pictures -of Italians, and each had a different style. It makes a confusing -aggregation. I think I have seen a thousand Madonnas, five hundred -Magdalens, and from one to three hundred of each of the saints. There -is a sameness of subject and a variance in execution which makes me -a little nervous. I haven’t worked at the art business as long as I -should, and therefore I may be too hasty in my judgment, although I -am fairly perspiring art at every pore and the climate of Italy in the -latter part of June and the first of July has nearly as much cause for -perspiration as the climate of Kansas. - - - - -AN ITALIAN FOURTH AND SO FORTH. - - - MENAGIO, ITALY, July 5, 1905. - -At an early hour yesterday morning, July 4, we left the hotel in -Venice in a gondola, and defiantly waving in the air was an American -flag which I carried as proudly and as exuberantly as a ten-year-old -boy would at a picnic in Kansas. We met several Americans at the -station, and they waved and cheered “Old Glory.” We met all kinds -of Italians, who looked as amused and curious as a lot of Americans -would at an Italian carrying a green, white and red banner down the -streets of Hutchinson. I flaunted the stars and stripes in the faces -of the Italian policemen, and they seemed to enjoy it. Several people -tried to find out from me what it all meant, and in spite of the fact -that I told them in good English that this was the Fourth of July, -the anniversary of independence, they shook their heads and did not -“comprehendo.” The weather was very hot and very dry, the train was -dusty, and the conditions as near ideal for a successful Fourth of July -celebration as could be imagined. The American flag that day floated -in the Italian breeze from Venice to Milan and then to Lake Como. The -inability to make the Dagoes understand what I meant was embarrassing -at times, and I longed vainly for a pack of firecrackers or a few -good torpedoes. The conductor on the train was greatly interested. We -talked in sign language and all the Italian I knew and all the English -he knew, but to no effect. Finally I said the word “liberty,” and as -the Italian word is about the same, he caught on and I could tell he -was approving. “Vive l’America!” I cried, and he took off his hat and -said it after me and smiled agreement to the remarks I was making on -what the old flag meant. I gave him a big tip, 10 cents,—5 cents for -hurrahing for America and 5 cents for listening to my speech. - -To-night we are out of the heat of the fertile plains of Lombardy and -are in a delightful cool place on the shore of Lake Como, the prettiest -and pleasantest place I have seen since we left Killarney. The last -part of the day the flag waved over Como, Bellagio, Cernobio, Nesso, -Colomo, Bellano, and all the other “o’s” that make the list of Italian -towns look like the roster of an Irish Fenian society, only the o is at -the wrong end of the names. - -[Illustration] - -Speaking of “tipping” the conductor reminds me of the tipping system in -Italy, which is a subject of the greatest importance to the traveler. I -think I have seen only one man in Italy who did not hold out his hand, -and that was an armless beggar at the Milan station who had a tin cup -in which you were expected to deposit. The tipping custom is general -in Europe, but it reaches its greatest development in Italy. Everybody -you meet is so courteous and polite, willing to show you or tell you or -take you, but always expecting something. You tip the conductor, the -porter, the hotel manager, the chambermaid, the “man chambermaid,” the -elevator boy, the waiter, the head waiter, the clerk, the interpreter, -the attendants, the driver, the man who opens the door, the church -janitor, the policeman, and everybody you ask a question or who is -there to answer if you do ask, and then you tip a few more just because -they expect it. This looks like an alarming expenditure of money. -But as a matter of fact the total amount of tips is not more than is -expected at a big hotel in New York. And when you tip the waiter at the -restaurant he does not keep it, but all tips go into a common fund that -is divided and is the wages the waiters receive in most cases. - -Here is a schedule of “tips,” which, after considerable study and -comparison with that of others, I have figured as about right: - - Baggageman, 2 cents. - Elevator boy, 2 cents. - Chambermaid, 3 cents. - Man chambermaid, 3 cents. - Waiter, per day, 5 cents. - Head waiter, 10 cents. - Manager of hotel, 20 cents. - Miscellaneous men and boys, each 1 cent. - Railroad conductor, 5 cents. - Policeman, 2 cents. - Driver, 2 cents. - Italian nobleman, 3 cents. - Italian merchant, 2 cents. - Clerk in store, 1 cent. - Ordinary civility, 1 cent. - -I haven’t met the king or queen, but I estimate that if I did and asked -a favor they would look like about 30 cents. - -The Italian money is like the French money, based on a unit which is -equivalent to 20 cents. So when you give a man 10 cents you give him -a half-lire or half-franc. The lire is divided into 100 centimes, and -when you give a man 2 cents you hand him a great big copper coin with -“ten centimes” on it. This small unit of measurement causes an American -a peculiar sensation. For example, I had to buy a shirt in Venice and -it was marked 5.50. That looked like a big price for a shirt, but -reduced to American currency it was only $1.10. I bought some of the -long Italian cigars which look like stogies and have straws down the -center so they will draw. They were 30 centimes each—only 6 cents -American. For a carriage and driver to go anywhere in Rome, carrying -Mrs. Morgan and myself and a lot of baggage, it was 1.00, twenty -American cents. When two Americans can ride a couple of miles in a -comfortable victoria for 20 cents they don’t walk much, and they feel -as if they were beating somebody and are perfectly willing to “tip” the -driver an extra 2 cents. So when you are “doing” Italy and get used to -the custom, you do not mind carrying a pound or so of copper coins and -distributing them whenever you speak to a native. - -The effect of this custom on the people must be very pernicious. And -it takes away the charm of recognizing courtesy and hospitality as a -national trait when you remember that you pay for it and it is cheap. - -[Illustration] - -I wrote from Paris that the government of France has the monopoly of -the tobacco business. In Italy the government has the monopoly of -tobacco and salt, the two great necessities. It looks funny to go -along the street and see the little government shops with the sign in -Italian, “Tobacco and Salt.” The Italian government doesn’t sell good -tobacco or good salt. The best cigars are from the island of Luzon, -manufactured into alleged cigars in the government factories in Italy. -The salt is heavy and coarse, something like old-style yellow-brown -sugar. If you don’t like the tobacco or the salt you can go without, -for the government allows no competitor who might do better. - -[Illustration] - -I have learned a little Italian, not so much but I can forget it when I -cross the line. And that leads me to tell of a little experience with -a moral. I had been so annoyed by the numerous beggars and vendors -of trinkets that I asked a hotel porter who knew some English what I -should say in Italian to tell them to go away. He told me something -that sounded like “Muffa tora.” Accordingly I went around for a couple -of days saying “Muffa tora” to all that bothered me. Then a friend who -knew a little more Italian happened to hear me and suggested that my -language was too strong. The words were about what in America is meant -by “Go-to-hell.” And there I had been going around St. Peter’s, St. -Paul, and all the churches and art galleries in Rome, saying to half -the people who approached me, “Go-to-hell,” “Go-to-hell.” A little -knowledge is a dangerous thing. - -[Illustration] - -Of course Americans stop at the best hotels, and they are about the -same everywhere, being based on the French model. They are from -one-third to one-half cheaper than the best hotels in American cities. -We are supposed to get three meals a day: First, rolls and coffee; -second, about 12 o’clock, what is really a late breakfast but is called -“dejeuner” and has three to five courses: eggs (always—generally -omelet), macaroni, a cutlet or chop with potatoes, a roast meat, -cheese, and fruit. No coffee or tea or anything to drink except water, -which they say is bad and unhealthful. Dinner at 7 o’clock and a good -meal: Soup, fish, cutlet or chop with macaroni, roast, vegetables, -roast chicken and salad, cheese, small cakes, and fruit. No coffee -or tea. If you want coffee after dinner you have it served in the -lounging-room or out-of-doors, and it is extra. Nobody but Americans -drink water, and they do not use enough to hurt. When you enter the -hotel you are received by the “hall porter,” really the manager, who -bows and takes you or sends you to a room. After a while he sends up -for your name and nationality, but that is for the police. There is -no hotel register. When you pay your bill and are leaving the porter -rings a bell and everybody from proprietor to chambermaid appears to -say “good-by,” speed the parting guest and receive the parting tips. At -first your royal reception and leave-taking makes quite an impression -and you feel “set up,” but after a while it gets to be a bore and you -try to escape it but can’t. The cooking and service are first-class, -better than in America. There is one kind of dishes I steer clear of, -those labeled on the bill of fare, “a la Americaine.” They are like -those served in Hutchinson, “a la Italia,” or “a la Français,” which -means that they are probably spoiled by the cook trying to do something -he does not understand. - -Of course in the small Italian hotels the cooking is different, but -they tell me it is good. The restaurants where the poorer people eat -are full of garlicky smells which can be heard for a block. The staple -articles of food for Italians are soup, macaroni and vegetables, all -flavored with garlic. The ordinary Italian does not eat meat. There are -probably several reasons why, but the first one is that he has not the -price, and that is enough. When a man is working for 30 cents a day he -is a stranger to roast beef, for meat is as high as it is in America. - -[Illustration] - -I haven’t seen a real clothing store in Italy. There are two classes -of Italians only: The rich, who have a tailor, and the poor, who put -the goods together themselves. Again I want to repeat what I have -said before: The things that are cheap in Europe are those in which -labor is the principal factor. When it comes to hiring a man to do -work, you name your price. That is why carriage-driving, servants, -clothes-making, the building trades and labor of every kind from -lace-makers to railroad engineers, are so low. - -[Illustration] - -The Italian shopkeepers have a well-deserved reputation as bargainers. -Go into a shop, ask a price, and very likely the proprietor or clerk -will say “So much: what will you give?” Americans have a reputation of -being “easy,” and so they usually start us with a price of “6 francs,” -when they will come down to one or two rather than lose a sale. When -you get through you never know just how much you have been beaten—you -only know you have been. Some stores advertise “fixed prices,” but they -are unfixed if necessary. The process of “shopping” thus has another -and delicious feature for the American “shopper.” - -[Illustration] - -I have found the Italians honest. We hardly ever lock our room. I am -always leaving the umbrella, but somebody always finds it and brings -it to me, and I can’t say that much for Americans. The hackmen do not -overcharge, or at least not near as much as in Chicago or New York. I -think a stranger is better treated in Rome than in Kansas City. But -then comes the suspicious thought—we pay for it. - -[Illustration] - -Previous to this trip I had often heard people talk about the fleas in -Italy, and had thought it was very funny. It is no joke. At first I was -much amused when I would see a well-dressed lady stop suddenly on the -street, elevate her skirt and go hunting. I now consider it a perfectly -justifiable and proper action. If there is a game law in Italy with a -closed season on fleas it is not at this time of the year. I have seen -the anxious, heart-stricken look on the faces of the martyrs and saints -as painted by the old masters, and I know now where they got their -models, for I have seen the man and the woman conscious of the march -of the flea along the small of the back or in some other unreachable -place, and have seen the haunted, hunted look on the face as conjecture -what the flea would do next changed into realization. The Italian flea -works a good deal like the American mosquito, only he makes no music -and you can only tell where he is by sad experience. He can dodge -better than some politicians and he can get in his work early and -often. I am growing accustomed to the sensation myself, but I do not -think I shall ever enjoy it. The Bible says the wicked flee when no man -pursueth, but in Italy the wicked flea is improving each minute whether -anyone pursueth or not. Mingled with art and old masters, lagoons, and -gondolas, cathedrals and Cæsars, blue sky and green fields, will always -be my recollection of the flea that never takes a siesta and to whom -the poets have never done justice. - - - - -SWITZERLAND. - - - - -ACROSS THE ALPS. - - - BRIEG, SWITZERLAND, July 7, 1905. - -“Beyond the Alps lies Italy” with all of its art and history and fleas. -After a day on Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore, where the two countries -of Italy and Switzerland meet, and where the customs officers examined -our baggage three times in the course of a trip around the water, -we crossed the Alps, among which we had been for two days, and are -now in the oldest republic on earth, Switzerland. We came over the -Simplon Pass in a stage-coach and not through a tunnel, as we could -have done. The Simplon Pass is historic and picturesque. As soon as -the tunnel is completed, which has been seven years in building, the -railroad train will rush through the mountains and the stage-coach will -be an old fogy luxury. But the way to go over the Alps for pleasure -and observation is not to take a tunnel train, but ride over on the -outside of a coach with five horses and see the panorama as you pass -by. After a fortnight spent among the great works of man, cathedrals, -coliseums and galleries, one day was enough in the Simplon to prove -that Nature is still ahead. The great amphitheatres of the mountains, -the magnificent stage-settings of forest and peak, left the coliseum -and the forum far behind. The changing hues of the slopes, now gradual -and now precipitate, sometimes bare and sometimes covered with pasture -and vineyard or forest, were in colors which even the old masters could -not equal. It was an all-day drive over a fine road, through narrow -gulches, alongside rushing rivers, under waterfalls of melted snow, -finally through the snow itself, and then down, almost sliding, with -the coach-wheels locked so they were like runners, into the quaint -little town of Brieg. - -[Illustration] - -The road over the Simplon was built by Napoleon. All over the map of -Europe you will see such monuments to the name of the great emperor. -I do not give Napoleon much credit for the job, as it was a military -necessity to him. He had to keep an army in Italy and always be on the -lookout for his enemies there, so he ordered the Simplon Pass, up to -the time only a trail, to be provided with a macadamized road, and it -was done. I have seen so many of such roads in Europe that I would be -willing to support Napoleon for road overseer or street commissioner -any time. The road was completed in 1807, and the tunnel under the Pass -will be finished in 1906. It is sixteen miles long, large enough for a -double track, and has been constructed from both ends at the same time. -To my mind it is a great engineering feat to start two small holes in -a mountain, sixteen miles apart, and figure so accurately that those -holes will meet some place in the center over a mile from the daylight -on top. I suppose it looks easy to the engineer who knows how, but it -is miraculous to me. A good many lives have been lost and a lot of -money spent on this tunnel, but those are the sacrifices the world -demands before it will move on. - -The road over the Pass is forty-five miles long. Soon after starting, -all agriculture disappeared, except vineyards and pasture. The -vineyards continued almost up to the snow. Wherever there was enough -ground there were vines, and in many places the mountain-side was -terraced and in the made land the vines were growing profusely. -Literally speaking, there are mountains of vineyards in northern Italy -and in Switzerland. - -[Illustration] - -Cattle-raising in the Alps is done in small herds and is mostly on the -Swiss side. The stock looks smooth and fine. Along with a drove of cows -are always a few goats. In the early summer the herdsmen drive the -animals up the paths and trails to the little patches of rich pasture, -where they feed until fall, neither man nor beast coming down until -driven by the cold. I saw cattle pasturing on the mountain-side where -it was so steep it seemed they must have feet like flies or they would -tumble down. Of course the animals inherit the mountain knowledge, and -I suppose they don’t know there is such a thing as a level meadow. -Here and there men and women would be cutting grass with a scythe, -spreading the hay out to dry, and then actually rolling it down the -mountain-side. Like all people who live in mountainous countries, the -Swiss herdsmen along the Simplon looked intelligent, cheerful and poor. - -[Illustration] - -And that brings me to another broken idol. I had always heard of a -Swiss “chalet,” and had supposed it was an artistic, smart-looking -house perched up on a peak for everybody to see. A real Swiss chalet -is a half dugout in a valley, built of stone and whitewashed once, in -which the family lives upstairs and the cattle spend the winter in the -basement, never going out until the springtime comes. Now I can see -the economy, the advantages and the necessity of a Swiss “chalet,” -but I can’t see anything beautiful or poetic, for such qualities are -not present. I had the same experience with an Italian “villa,” which -I found by observation was usually a plain-appearing stone house -built around a court, inhabited by Italians, goats and chickens, and -principally remembered by the noisome odor. - -[Illustration] - -I have done some touring in the Rocky Mountains, and I was curious -to see what difference there would be between the Rockies and the -Alps,—both having peaks of about the same height, and each forming the -backbone of a continent. The Alps have more snow than the Rockies. All -of the peaks are snow-covered and the gulches of snow run far down the -mountain-side here in July. Only an occasional peak in Colorado has -snow, and then only a little, not enough to call it “snow-covered.” To -my mind the Rockies are more grandly picturesque. The sides of the Alps -are cultivated and covered with vines, dotted with pasture and cattle -nearly up to the timber-line. The Rockies are still as nature left -them, more stern and desolate, awe-inspiring and effective. The Alps do -not look like the Rockies, except in height and steepness. The foliage -of the trees is not the same, and the Alps have a tamer appearance than -the American range. A town in the Rockies is out of harmony with the -scenery. A village in the Alps adds to the beauty. Perhaps I do not -make myself clear, but there is a great difference, and I think the -Rockies are far ahead from a mountain standpoint. - -[Illustration] - -Switzerland has no language of its own. The Swiss have four distinct -languages, and the people of one part of the country do not understand -the other. In some of the cantons (corresponding to our states) the -language is French, in some German, in some Italian, and in some a -composite speech based on the Latin and called “the Romance language.” -Remember, this is a country of about the same area (15,000 miles) as -the Seventh Congressional district of Kansas, but also remember it -is cut up by the mountains into natural divisions which are hard to -overcome. I am getting used to hearing one language in one town and -another in the next across an imaginary line. But four kinds of talk -within a little country like Switzerland is going to be hard to contend -with. - -[Illustration] - -Right at the top of the Simplon Pass among the snows that never -entirely melt is a “hospice,” maintained for generations by an order of -monks and devoted to taking care of poor travelers or relieving those -in distress or who lose their way. On every pass between Switzerland -and Italy there is such a hospice. The monks have the great St. Bernard -dogs (named from the St. Bernard Pass, a little distance away), and -when the snows get deep the dogs do much of the work of rescue. I had -heard of these great institutions since boyhood, and wondered if they -would turn out badly when actually seen. But they are all right, and -their good work has not been exaggerated in the thrilling stories in -which they have figured. - -[Illustration] - -There are many very large and very picturesque waterfalls, many more -than in the Rockies. The constantly melting snow keeps them running, -and it is not uncommon to see the water tumbling or jumping down a -sheer descent of two hundred to five hundred feet. I would like to -take a few waterfalls of that kind back to Kansas and put them up -in the sand-hills. I offered an Italian gentleman on the coach who -spoke some English to trade him 160 acres of western Kansas land for -a good first-class waterfall. Almost fifteen minutes after I made the -proposition he laughed. It doesn’t do any good to be funny with people -who don’t know your language. - - - - -GENEVA AND CHILLON. - - - GENEVA, July 9, 1905. - -This little city, now containing nearly 100,000 inhabitants, has been -a storm-center in Europe for 2000 years. Cæsar mentions it, and during -the early centuries when Rome was conquering and governing most of -the known world, Geneva was an important place, both from a strategic -standpoint as a gate to Helvetia and as a prosperous and loyal town. -It was either the capital of the country or a ruling city during all -of the Dark and Medieval ages, and was one of the first where people -learned popular sovereignty and applied it to the detriment of the -reigning king or duke. By playing one side against another in the -struggle for sovereignty the popular leaders fought for freedom of -conscience, and about the year 1500 secured practical independence. -Then the Reformation commenced, and Calvin fled from Paris to Geneva. -The people there were naturally “agin the government,” and they took -up Calvin’s doctrine, and during the years of fighting over religion -Geneva was the center from which Protestantism drew most of its -leadership and inspiration. They fought for freedom of conscience and -worship, and if anybody disagreed with them they killed him promptly -to convince him of his error. Calvin ruled Geneva during his life, and -after his death his cause went marching on. During the last century -Geneva has made a reputation for manufacturing watches, jewelry and -musical instruments. It is only fair to say that the best Geneva -watches are now made in America. The work here is nearly all done by -hand in the home of the workman, and the watchmakers of Geneva have had -a hard time competing with Yankee machinery and ingenuity. - -[Illustration] - -The surroundings of Geneva are peaceful and beautiful. The big lake of -blue water comes to an end at the Geneva quay and rushes out into the -world as the river Rhone, clear and sparkling. Mont Blanc, a quiet old -stager of a mountain, whose head is always covered with snow, looks -over the city like a stately sentinel at his post. Mountains rise all -around the lake and are covered with vineyards, almost the only product -of the soil, stretching far up the heights connecting the blue of the -lake with the blue of the sky and the snowy peaks and white clouds -which watch over them. Amid such surroundings we had decided to rest a -few days from our travel, and I found it the best place in the world -just to sit in the hotel garden from which the lake, Mont Blanc and the -entire picture are visible, and just loaf and loaf and loaf. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: THE ALPINE HUNTER OF TO-DAY] - -The great amusement of tourists who come to Switzerland is -mountain-climbing. I have learned the game. Men and women come in at -night recounting the wonderful feats they have accomplished and the -dangers they have escaped. Everybody carries an “alpenstock,” which -is a sharp-pointed cane with a chamois handle, and whenever he climbs -a peak he has a ring burned around the stick, and shows it as proudly -as the Indian once did the notches which meant deaths of enemies. I -am a little skeptical, and listen to the climbing stories as I do to -fish stories at home. It is too much like golf where you keep your own -count. Perhaps I shall yield to the demands of environment enough to -get me an alpenstock and have a few rings burned in it so I can have a -few chips in the game, as it were. The men run to knickerbockers, wear -feathers in their hats and carry packs on their shoulders. The women -wear short skirts which don’t hang well and big shoes with nails in -the soles—I am speaking now of people who do the thing right, and not -those who sit on the porch and loaf. - -[Illustration] - -The Swiss themselves are degenerating from the simple-hearted people -they were. They have fallen before the temptations of the tourists. -They see the American and the Englishman with lots of money to spend, -and they find it easier to separate the stranger from his cash than -they do to hunt chamois and herd cattle. It is a cause of much regret -to the intelligent Swiss that this is so, but I do not notice the -intelligent mourners going out into the mountains and setting an -example of industry. They sell the jewelry, the souvenirs, the milk -and the wine at advanced prices, and they have the greatest number -of hotels and boarding-houses of any country on earth. If you enjoy -handsome little shops with trinkets and gew-gaws, jewelry and -picture cards, carved wood and imitation stones, as I do, you would -thoroughly enjoy wandering through Geneva. The Geneva artisan will take -a chair-leg and make a musical instrument. Sit down on a sofa and you -will be startled to hear a piece of Wagner’s played by the concealed -music-box. - -[Illustration] - -The language spoken in Geneva is French. I do not think it is good -French, for the people here do not understand the French with the fine -Parisian accent I brought from Paris. But a large proportion of the -people understand English. I am of the opinion that in spite of the -fact that French is still the international language in Europe, the one -you can use with educated people nearly anywhere, the English-American -is the coming language. Very few people in Europe travel. The Germans -do so more than others, but the French seldom do, the Italians rarely, -and the Spanish and the Russians practically never. The English come -to the continent in great numbers, and the Americans are in droves. In -a place like Geneva in the principal shops and on the promenades you -would say that fully half the people were English-speaking. In order to -take care of these profitable guests the Swiss and others are learning -enough of the language to sell them cheap goods at high prices, and -they will learn more. It is not an uncommon experience to go into a -store and after laboriously constructing a question in alleged French -to get an answer in very fair English. - -I am told that up to a few years ago the American traveler was -regarded with a little contempt by the people of continental Europe, -and considered as only so much soil from which to gather wealth. But -Americans of experience tell me that since the war with Spain all this -has changed. As for myself, these Europeans have always spoken in the -friendliest way of America, even when they did not know there were any -Yankees around. The theory that we were only a commercial people and -would not fight (the world loves a fighter) was disproven so thoroughly -that they have rather gone to the other extreme, and Americans are now -very popular as Americans and not merely for their money. Europe also -has the highest opinion of McKinley and Roosevelt. With a great deal of -pride in my heart I read a leading editorial in the London Times saying -that Roosevelt’s letter to Russia and Japan urging peace was one of the -greatest of state papers. The Times added that it was “straightforward, -frank and clear—the American idea of diplomacy.” All of Europe now -regards America as a great and friendly power, and an American swells -up considerably more over his country when he is in other nations -than he does at home, where he is apt to get fussy and cynical. The -English are not popular on the continent, though England is feared and -respected. The Americans are liked because they are believed to be fair -and square. - -[Illustration] - -At the other end of Lake Geneva is the castle of Chillon. It is about -as big as the court-house in Hutchinson, and looks like the old -sugar-mill, only more so. Byron did a great deal for the people in that -neck of the woods, for his poem made the castle famous, and tourists -come by the hundreds and buy. In return they have named the big hotel -the Byron, which shows they are not ungrateful. Byron’s poem had the -poor prisoner confined in a dungeon with two brothers, and he had the -torture of seeing them die. The facts are that there never was any -“prisoner of Chillon” except in the brilliant imagination of Lord -Byron. Of course many prisoners were confined in the dungeon. Every -castle in Europe has a dungeon, and none of them were constructed with -an idea of sanitary conditions or the health of the prisoners. But the -dungeon at Chillon is the lightest and airiest dungeon I have seen. It -is as comfortable as a good many hotel rooms in the United States. The -only prisoner of note that had any such experience was a preacher named -Bonnivard, who was kept there for two years because he believed or -didn’t believe in Calvin,—I have forgotten which it was. Bonnivard had -no brothers, and lived a number of years afterward and said he enjoyed -his confinement at Chillon because he had so much time to think. Our -guide showed our party the pathway the prisoner’s feet had worn in -the rock where he had walked back and forth within the limit of his -chains. I couldn’t see the path, although everybody else did. The rest -of the castle of Chillon is very interesting, as it was the residence -of a fine line of dukes who were always fighting either for or against -the king. Our guide, who spoke only French, told us all about it, but -I shall not repeat what she said. The people of Hutchinson would not -understand her remarks any better than I did. - -My idea of a good joke is to have a guide who can only talk French tell -an American who can’t understand French something very important or -serious. The Frenchman tells his story with rapidity, earnestness and -gestures. The American listens with frank impatience and punctuates the -French sentences with American ejaculations which have no connection -with the subject. The Frenchman acts mad, but he isn’t at all. The -American acts pleasant, but he is really mad. - -[Illustration] - -The castle of Chillon is in the lake, about sixty feet from the shore. -You reach the entrance over a bridge after fighting your way through -the sellers of souvenirs. That is one thing the old dukes did not have -to contend with. If they were still doing business I think they would -fill up the dungeon with the salesmen and salesladies. - - - - -SOMETHING OF SWITZERLAND. - - - ZURICH, SWITZERLAND, July 12, 1905. - -Switzerland is a succession of beautiful lakes, mountains and big -hotels, dotted here and there with manufacturing towns and vineyards. -It has been said that you cannot get too much of a good thing, but -that is a mistake. Even the man who loves pie must admit that after he -has had all the pie he can consume three times a day for a week, he -would want to change the subject. After one has been traveling through -Swiss scenery for seven days he is almost satisfied. We no longer chase -across the car to see a big mountain-peak, or hurry out of the hotel -soon after our arrival to behold the lake. And men and women with -feathers in their hats and alpenstocks in their hands do not make us -turn our heads. The sight of a little level country would look mighty -good, and a comfortable seat on the porch comes nearer to filling the -longing in my heart than the sight of a waterfall or an old castle -several minutes’ walk distant. - -[Illustration] - -Lucerne is the center of the tourist travel. All roads into Switzerland -lead to Lucerne, and the scenery is more varied than at any other of -the show places. The town is on the lake and the mountains are around -it. From my hotel I could see Mount Pilatus, the place where they say -Pontius Pilate finally found a resting-place. At the other end of the -view is the snow-covered Rigi, and there are all kinds of Alps in the -background. Lucerne looks like an American summer resort. It is made up -of hotels and souvenir shops, and elegantly dressed women parade up and -down the promenade walks, while rich old gentlemen sit uncomfortably -around the piazzas and wish the women-folks had let them stay at home. -It is astonishing how many men act as if they would give a good deal to -be at work somewhere rather than in Switzerland “enjoying themselves.” -A lot of people do not know how to have a good time or how to see a -strange and delightful place. I meet many people who do not care for -Europe, or Italy, or Switzerland,—the people who bring a stack of -trunks and good clothes and have to put in their time dressing up only -to be out-dressed by somebody else. - -But Lucerne has one thing different. It is the “Lion of Lucerne,” the -monument erected in honor of the Swiss soldiers who died in the French -palace defending the rotten Bourbon dynasty when the revolutionists -broke in and captured the king and queen. The lion (twenty-eight feet -in length) is carved out of a sandstone ledge, and is the finest -monument or statue I ever saw. The king of beasts is dying, agony on -his face, a broken lance in his side, and his huge paw resting on a -shield of the lilies of France. The more I looked at the great work -of Thorwaldsen the more I felt it, and I went back again and again to -see it,—the real test of effect. Nearly everyone has seen copies or -pictures of this work, but it is one of the things that no copy can do -justice to, for the size and substance of the stone, the pathos and -power of the subject and the skill and the genius of the sculptor have -met most perfectly and impressively. - -[Illustration] - -Near Lucerne is the scene of the early struggle for Swiss liberty. -Around the lake of Lucerne are the three cantons of Uri, Schwyz, and -Unterwalden, whose representatives met some 500 years ago and entered -into the compact to stand together for freedom, a compact which has -never been broken. Here William Tell refused to take off his hat to the -hat the tyrant Gessler had set up and ordered all to salute. To punish -Tell the governor ordered him to take his bow and arrow and shoot an -apple from the head of his son. Tell’s aim was true, but as he turned -away another arrow dropped from his coat. When asked why he had that, -he said it was for Gessler if the boy had been hurt. Gessler took Tell -in a boat and was carrying him to a dungeon, when a storm arose and -Tell was released in order to use his skill as a boatman. He knew that -the world wasn’t big enough for both himself and Gessler, so he soon -after inserted an arrow into the tyrant’s ribs, and the Austrians had -to get a new governor. - -Some cynical historians doubt this Tell story, but I do not. It is just -as good a story as a lot which appear in history and it is good enough -to be true. - -After the Tell revolution, which was in the thirteenth century, those -Swiss cantons never lost their freedom, although they had to fight -for it about every generation. The Hapsburg family, which reigned in -Austria, was always trying to conquer the Swiss, and although its power -was great enough to overcome any army they could collect, it could not -cope with the mountains and gulches in which the Swiss were at home, -and where one man who knew the land was equal in fighting value to a -dozen knights in armor or on horseback. On that account the Swiss, -especially the people of these “forest cantons,” have been a free -people through all the changes in the world during more than 500 years. -Sometimes they have been selfish and narrow in their ideas of freedom, -considering that they were the only people on earth, and they have -until the last century held serfs and domineered despotically over weak -neighbors. But they were always far in advance of the rest of the world -in their ideas of personal liberty. Switzerland is the one country -which has always been a refuge to exiled patriots, rebels, conspirators -and pretenders. Switzerland will not surrender a fugitive from another -country on a political charge. The judges who sentenced Charles I. of -England to death sought refuge in Switzerland when Charles II. came -to the throne. Charles demanded that the judges be given up to him, -and brought every influence to bear, but the Swiss stood by their -law of refuge. To-day the anarchists and nihilists of Russia and the -revolutionists of every country from Roumania to Spain have their -headquarters in Geneva or some other Swiss town. - -It will be noticed that I think a good deal of the Swiss, and that -I have written some criticism of the Italians. I went through Italy -without ever being overcharged, “held up,” or worked by cab-drivers, -hotel-keepers, or anyone at all. But in Switzerland, the land of -freedom and education, I have had all these things done to me. I have -been surprised and pleased by the way the people of Europe treat -strangers, even if they do want tips. I had not been meanly treated -from the time I left Boston until I reached Switzerland. The last man I -did business with in my native land was a Boston hackman, who charged -me twice what he should when he brought us to the ship. I did not meet -his equal until I got to Lucerne. I hope there is no connection between -personal liberty, republican government, and the swindling of strangers. - -[Illustration] - -Yesterday we went to St. Gallen, a little industrial town near -Constance. The women will recognize the name of this town if the men -do not, for it is the place Swiss embroideries come from. I found -out one thing there: Most of the Swiss hand embroidery is made by -machinery. The Swiss are called the Yankees of Europe. They are up to -almost all the tricks of the trade. They are changing from a pastoral -and agricultural people, except right in the mountains, and are making -money out of manufactories and tourists. The men and women do not wear -the ridiculous and charming peasant costumes, except in beer-gardens -and summer-resort hotels. In fact, I am impressed with the sameness -of people’s clothes everywhere. There is no longer any such thing as -characteristic costume. I saw the men’s clothes in Italy all cut and -made just as in France, England, or America. The women have the same -styles in the country districts of Switzerland that they do in Kansas -or in Paris. Of course some people know how to wear their clothes -better than others, and there is a difference in fit and make, but the -styles are the same from Hutchinson to St. Gallen. - -I am learning some things in geography. Mont Blanc, the biggest -mountain in Switzerland, is in France. Constance, one of the best Swiss -resorts, is in Germany. Switzerland is such a busy little country that -it bulges out all around. - - - - -SWISS AND SWITZERLAND. - - - NEUHAUSEN, SWITZERLAND, July 13, 1905. - -Soon after I arrived in Switzerland I inquired at a Geneva hotel -the name of the President of the Republic of Switzerland. The hall -porter (about the same as chief clerk) could not tell me, nor could -he find out on inquiry around the office. Several times in Geneva I -asked the same question, but always in vain. One or two men thought -they knew, but they were not sure, and, as I learned afterward, they -guessed wrong. I kept at the work of finding out who was the chief -executive until I reached Lucerne. In a bookstore there my question -aroused the interest of the proprietor, who spoke good English, and he -inquired around until he found out that the President of Switzerland is -named Brenner. During the process I suppose I asked a dozen educated -Swiss, and three-fourths of them could give me promptly the name of -the President of the United States, but not the name of their own -President. Of course there is a reason for what would be fearful -ignorance in any other country. The President of Switzerland doesn’t -amount to as much as the Vice-President of the United States, and it -would stagger a good many Americans to tell who was Vice-President -before Roosevelt. Switzerland is a rather loosely bound together -confederation of cantons (states). The cantons are jealous of the -federal government, and give it very little power. Up to a few years -ago there would be tariffs in some cantons against importations from -others. The general government has the power to do the international -business, but Switzerland keeps out of European politics. It would -have little or no power as an offensive nation with its three million -of people, and so it contents itself with furnishing scenery, wine, -watches, music-boxes and good air to the inhabitants of other countries -who are able to buy. The federal government consists of a congress -composed of representatives from the cantons made up like our Senate -and House. This congress elects an executive committee of seven, and -the President of Switzerland is merely the chairman of that executive -committee. Berne is the capital of Switzerland and the congress -meets there, but it can only propose important legislation, which -is then submitted to the people, who usually defeat it. The cantons -of Switzerland have various kinds of republican government. Some -have legislatures, some councils, and in a few of the small ones, -where it is practicable, the government acts by mass meetings of the -people, with an executive or a committee to carry out the legislation. -The small area of the country and of the twenty-two cantons (they -average about the size of Reno county, but some are not bigger than a -commissioner district) makes the government a peculiar proposition. -There is no foreign immigration, no uneducated class, and no one -whose ancestors have not been self-governing for a generation. And -yet as they have remodeled their local and federal constitutions and -charters, they have come closer to the American methods all the time, -the only important difference being the initiative and referendum, -which is after all only a continuance of their ancient “land gemeinde,” -or mass meetings of the people at which measures were considered and -officers elected, the voting now being done by ballot instead of -holding up the hands. - -[Illustration] - -As I have written before, in some cantons the people use one language -and in some another. Likewise in some everybody is a Protestant and in -others everybody is a Catholic; very seldom both faiths in one canton. -During the Reformation and for a number of years afterward the Swiss -fought and killed each other for the love of God as fiercely as in any -other country. Switzerland and southern Germany, which borders on it, -were the fields in which the great Reformers did their best and worst -work. The Reformation in Switzerland was double-headed. One branch, -led by Calvin, was marked by what we call Puritan austerity, and had -its headquarters at Geneva. From there went John Knox to Scotland and -a host of eminent preachers to England and other countries, forming -what is now called the Presbyterian Church. Zwingli, at Zurich, was -a milder, gentler teacher, and his kind of Protestantism grew most -in Switzerland. Luther, only a little way off, had still another -kind of Protestantism, and each of the three differed considerably -in confession of faith, Calvin standing on the principle of -predestination, Luther holding to transubstantiation, or the doctrine -of the actual presence of the body of our Saviour in communion, Zwingli -insisting that communion was only symbolic. Mutual friends brought -Zwingli and Luther together, and when they could not agree, Zwingli -held out his hand in parting and Luther would not even shake hands. -Zwingli was killed in a battle in a religious war with the Catholics, -but his creed really became the dominant one in Swiss Protestantism. -Calvin had Servetus burned to death because he denied the trinity. - -So you see in the good old days in Switzerland there was a hard time -for the plain and honest person trying to do what was right. Those -times are past now, and Protestant and Catholic cantons get along -peaceably; but there is still friction. Each canton in Switzerland -looks after its educational matters and there are good schools -everywhere. In nearly every city is a big university. I suppose that -in proportion to population there are more university graduates in -Switzerland than in any other country on earth. In America the young -men and women too often cut short their education in order to get into -business. In Switzerland, there are no such alluring opportunities, -and the students stay till graduation. A young Swiss will go through -the university and then go to work at the trade of his father. In -America the young man would want to “do better” and really does worse -by becoming a lawyer or an editor. Even good things have their bad -features, and American colleges make mighty poor professional men out -of material which was intended for good mechanics and farmers. - -We spent a couple of days in Zurich, the largest city of Switzerland. -Its special industry is silk-making, and the silk and embroidery stores -are beautiful. The main business street of Zurich has two rows of trees -like First avenue in Hutchinson, and the result is a delightful change -from the usual hot, bare main street of a city. And that reminds me -that it is a law in Switzerland or in the forest cantons that no one -can cut down a tree except by official permission, and then another -must be planted to take its place. - -In the agricultural and pastoral parts of Switzerland a great deal of -land is held “in common,” that is government land, under the control of -the canton, not for sale at any price, but for the use of the people of -the community under strict regulations. So a Swiss peasant will have a -few acres of land of his own, a few cattle, and a right as a citizen to -pasture on the common ground and a share of the profits of the forest. -Immigration is not invited, although tourists with money are welcomed, -for the more people the less the share of each in the common fund. -There can hardly be any poverty in Switzerland, except, of course, in -the cities. Every Swiss peasant can make a living if he will work. -But neither can he be expected to get rich nor be a bigger man than -his father. He must follow the beaten path marked out by centuries of -custom and more firmly established than the unwritten constitution of -the country. - -[Illustration] - -I am getting more and more impressed with the fallacy of “cheapness” -in Europe. Comparing prices with those of Hutchinson, I find that the -things which are cheaper here are silks, kid gloves, diamonds, and -the products of labor like embroidery, lace, clocks, wood carvings, -tailor-made clothes and straw hats (poorly made). Cotton goods, linen -goods, shoes, iron and steel, bread and meat, coffee, and most of what -we call necessities of life, are higher in Europe than in America. -It is the people who are cheap and not the things; and when I say -“cheap” I do not mean lacking in energy, ability, or industry, but in -opportunity to make more than a living, to have leisure or the common -luxuries and often necessities. - -[Illustration] - -This is the last night in Switzerland. To-morrow we cross the line -to Constance, which is in Germany, and which is spelled Konstanz and -abbreviated “Kaz.,” which makes it near to “Kas.” Neuhausen is the -place where the Rhine makes its big leap down the rocks, a fall of -sixty feet, and on account of the volume of water the grandest in -Europe. It is the Niagara Falls of the Alpine country, but it is not -in the same class with Niagara Falls, U. S. A. The Rhine is about as -wide as the Kaw at Topeka, but much deeper, and the falls are about -four times the height of Bowersock’s dam at Lawrence. A beautiful hotel -faces the roaring torrent as it precipitates itself over the rocks amid -clouds of spray. The prices at the hotel are higher than the falls. I -can only call to mind one place where you feel that you are being more -genteelly robbed with your own consent, and that is at Niagara Falls, -New York. But our Niagara Falls are higher to correspond. - - - - -GERMANY. - - - - -IN THE BLACK FOREST. - - - TRIBERG, GERMANY, July 17, 1905. - -This is a small town in the middle of the Black Forest. I had read a -good deal of the Black Forest, but really had no idea what it was. The -name sounded as if it might be a part of Arkansas or Louisiana, and I -think I was looking for swamps and waste land covered with underbrush -and impenetrable to travelers except on made roads. But as a matter of -fact it is as delightful and beautiful a country as I have seen since I -left Kansas. The land is mountainous, but it is fertile and the valleys -and hillsides are dotted with thrifty-looking little farms. The name -applies, all right, for the mountains are covered with dense forests -of spruce trees with a dark-green foliage which looks really black. -The farming land has evidently been cleared in the centuries that have -passed since the roving Germans settled into peaceful peasants and -quit their occupation of making Rome howl by raiding and pillaging the -towns of the declining empire. The Black Forest covers a great part -of southwest Germany, mostly in the state or grand duchy of Baden. Up -to a short time ago it had a number of practically independent little -kingdoms about the size of your hat, which were in a perpetual struggle -for existence and recognition. Anthony Hope used the Black Forest -as the scene for his Zenda stories, and to-day we came through the -principality of Fürstenberg, one of his favorite places, in which the -prince of Fürstenberg still holds an honorary position but under the -actual government of Emperor William. I also noticed that the prince -was proprietor of a big brewery. - -It is harvest-time in the Black Forest, and men and women are gathering -the crops, small grain and hay, using the hand-sickle and the hand-rake -but doing their work in a thorough manner. When they get through the -raking I don’t suppose there is a waste straw left lying on the ground -or a kernel of grain which is not carefully picked up. The farmer in -Europe would get rich on what an American farmer drops on the way from -the field to the barn. They have fine horses and cattle in the Black -Forest, and look prosperous. When one horse is used in a wagon he is -harnessed alongside the pole and not between shafts. I was told the -reason was that it was to make it easy to add another horse if desired -without changing the pole. That was nearly as strange as the one horse -alongside the pole. - -[Illustration] - -The time is past when the sight of ladies working in the field excites -any interest, although I still have a little feeling when the woman is -sixty or seventy years old. It is not so bad in Germany, and especially -in the Black Forest, where the air is light and exhilarating; and -then the men work too. In Italy the hauling was done by animals as -follows: Horses, oxen, cows, dogs, women. Sometimes a woman and a -dog were hitched together to small wagons, especially milk carts. In -Switzerland the dogs were still in harness, but the women were out -of it. And in the Black Forest I believe the dogs are freed, as all -the vehicles I have seen have been drawn by horses or oxen. Perhaps -it will be different later. I write now only of the Black Forest. We -drove for twelve miles down one of the valleys and through the little -villages. A number of the old peasant costumes were worn by women and -girls, although most of them were dressed in the same styles as in -Paris or Hutchinson. A very striking head-dress for the feminine is one -of the Black Forest styles, a bonnet with two large wings extending -upward at an angle of about 40 degrees from the head, and with flowing -bands several feet long down the back. Girls and unmarried women have -bright-colored wings and bands, married women must wear black. By the -way, the women of continental Europe wherever we have been have worn -earrings,—France, Italy, and Switzerland. As American women generally -discarded these disfiguring ornaments several years ago, the sight has -been a strange one. Especially in Italy are the earrings large and -imposing, rich and poor vieing with each other in size of the pendants -and rings. - -[Illustration] - -Aside from agriculture the main industry of the Black Forest is -wood-carving and clock-making. There are some small factories, but as -a rule the work is done at home; and it is very good. We visited one -of these home shops, and the whole family showed us their handiwork. -A beautifully carved wooden hall clock with a cuckoo and a music-box -which played every half-hour was only $4 American money. It must -have taken the man a week to make it, and in our country the price -would have been several times as large. There is a big tariff on this -ware going into America, and it is all right. If it were not so, our -American wood-workers would have to learn another trade or work for $4 -or $5 a week. And if they got only $4 or $5 a week they would not eat -much meat, buy much clothing, or pay for many newspapers. See? - -The people of the Black Forest are a charming, friendly lot. I suppose -they are as happy as anybody, although one of them was very proud of a -brother who had gone to America and was making “much geld,” and whom -he would follow if he could. All through Europe I meet people who have -relatives in America, and that may account for the friendly treatment -I have everywhere received. These American relatives have all gotten -“rich” according to their European relatives, which shows that the -immigrants to our country all succeed or keep a stiff upper lip when -they write to the folks in the fatherland. - -[Illustration] - -The architecture of the Black Forest houses is as striking as any I -have seen. Nearly every farmhouse is very large, at least three stories -high, and on one or more sides the roof “gambrels” off from the high -ridge nearly to the ground. The effect is like a tent-covering, and -the roof is often thatched or tiled in two or three colors,—on some -the green grass is growing. Part of the house is the barn. The winter -here is said to be severe, and the Forest peasant evidently believes -in having his family and his horses, cows and chickens where they -can be comfortable and sociable. The houses are extra clean, and the -furniture, dishes and utensils of the kitchen shine with the good -polishing they must receive. The little farms are tilled to the limit, -and are generally irrigated and always fertilized. Just to show how -these people manage to get a living out of the ground and the care they -use to get it all, I saw women and men on the roadside with baskets -cleaning the road of manure and carrying it to their land. - -[Illustration] - -We have had to learn a new money system in Germany. France, Italy, -Switzerland and Belgium have what is called a “Latin league,” -with interchangeable currency, the unit being the franc (France, -Switzerland, and Belgium), and the lire (Italy). But Germany joins -no Latin leagues. The unit of the German currency is the “mark,” -equivalent to twenty-five cents American. This is divided into -one hundred pfennigs. Prices are carried out to the pfennig, and -one-pfennig coins (in value one-fourth of one cent) are seen more -than our one-cent pieces at home. That illustrates the close, exact, -economical German spirit. The first time I made a small purchase in -Germany I got a pocketful of change. Mrs. Morgan wanted a little money, -and I gave her a couple of handfuls. She said she didn’t want so much, -as she only intended to buy inexpensive things. I had actually given -her about fifty cents. When one hundred copper coins make twenty-five -cents and they are used in most transactions, you can realize what a -heavy load you carry and how you can get that wealthy feeling without -much actual expense. - -[Illustration] - -Soon after leaving Constance our road turned away from the Rhine, and -going through a tunnel we were in the valley of the Danube. It startled -me a little, as I had always connected the Danube with Austria and -Turkey. But sure enough, we were riding along the banks of the Danube, -which has been made famous by history, poetry and music. If a raindrop -fell on one side of that hill it would go down to the Rhine to the -Baltic, and if the wind blew it over to the other side before it struck -the earth it would start eastward and journey down the Danube to the -Black sea. Rivers are like human beings,—they get their directions -from the place where they start and go onward along the road of least -resistance to the place appointed, unless dammed or taken up by man -or God, in which case they will struggle and work to seep back to the -channel in which it was intended they should make their course. - -By the way, the “Beautiful Blue Danube” is not blue at all in this part -of its career, but almost black, seemingly taking its hue from the -forests in which it has its origin. - -[Illustration] - -The town of Triberg is a quaint little place near the top of the -mountain, and apparently about one hundred miles from Nowhere. I have -had my first experience with what I understand is not infrequent in -old German towns. There is a tax on strangers, thirty pfennigs a day -or one mark a week, and our hotel has to pay and charge in our bill. -Ministers of the gospel, and paupers, are exempt. In America if they -had a fool tax like that they would also exempt newspaper men. The -only way I could get out of paying the tax was to make affidavit that -I was a minister or a pauper, so I reluctantly gave up the offer to -dodge taxation and the town of Triberg is fifteen cents to the good on -account of our stay. However, there is a very fine waterfall, and we -looked fifteen cents’ worth at that and called it even. - -STORIES OF STRASSBURG. - - - STRASSBURG, GERMANY, July 18, 1905. - -To use the American vernacular, Strassburg is a good town. It has -the best-looking stores, the most energetic acting people and the -most thriving appearance of any city since we left Paris. The reason -for this is probably the mingling of the German and the French and -the location of the city as the metropolis of a very rich territory -lying in both countries. Strassburg is a German city in which the -people are at heart French. Thirty years ago the treaty which ended -the Franco-German war gave Strassburg and two of the rich provinces -of eastern France, Alsace and Lorraine, to the German empire. But -it did not give the German emperor a warranty deed to the hearts of -the people, and they long for their old associations. Probably the -new generation is not so much disposed to France, and the influence -of education and environment will gradually change the desire of the -Alsatians to be sometime reunited with their old countrymen, but time -and again to-day in talking with the Strassburgers they have given me -to understand that they were not Germans but French. - -Strassburg has a history as a city on its own account. Away back in -1300 the people revolted from the rule of the bishop who was their -sovereign, and gained their independence. For 400 years Strassburg -was what is known as a “free city,” owing some allegiance to the -German empire but governing itself and doing about as it pleased. The -language, the customs and the sympathy of the people were German. In -1681 Louis XIV. of France in a time of peace seized Strassburg, and a -few years later in a general treaty France was confirmed in the title, -and from that time until 1871 it was a French city. During the war -of 1870 Strassburg did not surrender to the overwhelming German army -until its defenses were battered down and the city bombarded. And as I -wrote from Paris, in the galaxy of statues representing the cities of -France in the Parisian Place de la Concorde, the statue of Strassburg -is hung with emblems of mourning, and some day France will fight to -get the city back. Germany knows this, and the city has been strongly -fortified and a garrison of 15,000 German soldiers is kept there. So -many soldiers in a city of 150,000 people give a showy look to the -streets, the promenades and the public places, and doubtless is a good -thing financially for the merchants. - -[Illustration] - -Since leaving Italy I have sworn off on cathedrals, but I had to go to -the one here because it is a good one and because of the Strassburg -clock. The spire of the Strassburg cathedral is one of the highest -in Europe, 465 feet, beating by a few feet St. Peter’s at Rome and -St. Paul’s in London. The rest of the building is just the ordinary -cathedral except for the clock. The first big clock was constructed -here in 1352 and it lasted two centuries, when another took its place, -to be succeeded sixty years ago by the present one. This clock is about -the size of the front of an ordinary church. It not only tells the hour -and minute of the day, but the day of the week, the month of the year, -the feast days of the church, and is regulated to run for centuries, -automatically making the right figures for leap years and adapting -itself to the revolution of feast and fast days for an almost unlimited -number of years. Every fifteen minutes an angel figure strikes the bell -for the quarter-hour, and figures representing boyhood, youth, manhood -and old age come out for the appropriate quarters. A skeleton strikes -the hour and another reverses an hour-glass. At noon there is a parade -of the twelve apostles before the Saviour, and a big rooster at one -side crows loudly twice before Peter gets to the front and the third -time as he passes. I am getting a great sympathy for Peter because he -has that story thrown up to him in so many cathedrals, churches and -pictures in Europe. It seems to me that Peter did enough after that to -entitle him to a rest on the cock-crow story. - -[Illustration] - -Next to the cathedral clock the most interesting sight to my mind was -the washerwomen’s boats in the river. About 500 women were in these -canal-shaped boats washing clothes, rinsing them in the river and -having a good gossiping time of it. The emperor of Germany has a -palace in Strassburg where he spends at least three days every year -in the month of May. I did not know this, so when I saw the imperial -palace on the city map I told the driver to take us there. I had never -met Emperor William and he had never met me. I entered the palace door -as directed by the cab-driver and was pleasantly received by a fine, -portly gentleman. Of course I knew he wasn’t the emperor, so I spoke in -a dignified way as becomes an American citizen toying with the effete -monarchies of Europe, and asked the gentleman in my best German if the -emperor was at home, at the same time assuring him that if the emperor -was busy not to bother him, as I could come again after supper when -he would be through his work. The fat gentleman bowed and told me the -emperor was here only in May, and asked me if we would like to go over -the palace. I spoke up abruptly, as if I were used to running around -palaces; that as I had nothing else to do just then, having laid out to -put in a short time with Emperor Bill, I wouldn’t mind if I did. He was -a very nice man, a court chamberlain, he said, and he took Mrs. Morgan -and me all through the palace and the big dining-room and ball-room and -the king’s den, and all that sort of thing. Before we went onto the -polished floors of the big rooms we had to put felt slippers on over -our shoes—a good thing to keep the floors from getting scratched, and -I suppose it is a kind of ground rule that Mrs. Emperor has made to -protect the varnish from the hobnailed boots of William’s friends. I -hope the custom won’t spread to America. - -The German emperor has a mighty good house in Strassburg, and it has -been furnished regardless of expense. There was a notice up, “Visitors -not allowed to sit on the chairs,” but I wasn’t very tired anyway. I -looked for a sign not to spit on the floor to go with some of the other -wall decoration, but it must have been overlooked. The house looked -stiff, and I don’t believe Bill has much fun at home and probably his -wife makes him go out on the porch to smoke. I was sorry not to meet -the emperor, as we will not get to Berlin, and I had some things to -tell him. However, I feel that I have done the proper thing by calling -on him and not waiting for him to hunt me up. - -[Illustration] - -There is not so much American-made stuff in Europe as I expected. -There is a good deal, but in fact these Germans and French are up to -about everything that we are, and sometimes they have us bested. The -Singer sewing-machine is everywhere, even in Italy. American shoes are -the leaders in their lines in every city. American typewriters are -sold ahead of European. Wernicke bookcases and office furniture are -advertised and sold almost as at home. But the list of American goods -is not very long, or else they are sold under other names and brands. -To-day we bought a good picture of a typical German girl to take home -with us as our art collection from Europe. Before we had gone a block -Mrs. Morgan found the tag which proclaimed, “Made in Springfield, -Massachusetts, U. S. A.” We were chagrined that our European purchase -had turned out to be an American importation, sold to us at a higher -price than it would have been at home, but we were proud that here in -Germany they knew the country to send to in order to get good pictures -of fetching Dutch maidens. At Zurich I started to buy a little office -fixture which I thought I had never seen before and which I intended to -take home to surprise the Kansans, when I found out just in time that -it was made by the Globe-Wernicke company of Cincinnati, and I knew we -had the same thing for sale at The News office in Hutchinson. Hereafter -in buying souvenirs of Europe we will look close for the brand. - -[Illustration] - -This is the place where the “pâté de fois gras” originated. I do not -know how many people in Kansas know what pâté de fois gras is and -whether it is a flower or a dog. I had once seen the words on a bill -of fare in a very swell restaurant, but the figures which followed the -name were so much larger than those after ham and eggs that I stuck -to “ham and.” But when in Rome you must see the Forum, in Venice you -must see St. Mark’s, and in Strassburg you must have some pâté de -fois gras. The food combination which the four French words stand for -is based on goose-liver, and corresponds to about what we would call -“goose-liver smothered in roses.” It is very good, and you never forget -the delicious taste or the price. Strassburg chefs make the stuff, can -it and ship it all over the world to people who like delicate things -to eat and who have sufficient credit to get a good stand-off. Pâté de -fois gras is sweeter than chocolate, more luscious than peaches and -more delicious than lemon pop at a Fourth of July picnic. It is a proof -that Strassburgers have French stomachs as well as French hearts. - -[Illustration] - -Speaking of eatables, we had the first loaf of bread in Switzerland -that we had seen since we left home. After nearly two months on hard, -stale rolls the sight of a reasonably good loaf of bread at Geneva -made as strong an impression on my mind as Mont Blanc. Anybody who has -traveled in Europe or in Arkansas will appreciate the feelings of a -Kansan when he puts a slice of fairly soft bread between his teeth. -It is better than pâté de fois gras, and it is almost exclusively an -American institution. - - - - -IN OLD HEIDELBERG. - - - HEIDELBERG, GERMANY, July 22, 1905. - -This is the old and famous university town of Germany. It is about two -miles long and 200 yards wide, lying between the river Neckar and the -steep hills which rise 500 feet high and which can only be ascended by -terraced roads or a modern tunnel railway. The town is of comparatively -recent origin, being really started only 850 years ago, when a Rhenish -count who wanted to build a strong and impregnable fortress selected -a spot 400 feet straight up the hill from the river and built the -old castle of Heidelberg. Being thus the capital of a little German -state, the Palatinate of the Rhine, it was an important place during -the Middle Ages, and was fought over every few years for several -centuries. In the fourteenth century the ruling count, whose title -was Elector, developed a literary streak and founded the university, -which became the center of learning and scientific study in Germany, -and has continued so until the present day, although some of the newer -universities like Berlin and Leipsig are now larger. The valley of the -Neckar joins the valley of the Rhine here and makes a fertile territory -and a prosperous city, but the university and the students are the main -features of modern Heidelberg, now that counts, electors and castles -are ruins or relics. There are many students in Heidelberg from -America and other countries, but it is the rollicking German “yunkers” -who make the life of the place. - -German universities differ somewhat from American universities in the -character and method of work. There are no recitations—only lectures -and examinations. A student does not have to attend either. He can -attend Heidelberg year in and year out and devote himself exclusively -to the beer-garden and the dueling-ground. Or he can work hard, receive -the ablest instruction and the highest degrees. The discipline of -the common schools in Germany is severe—military in its character. -But at the university the young man or young woman (for women now -attend lectures at Heidelberg) can do as they please and go to Hades -if they desire. The university buildings are plain and ordinary. The -picturesque feature is the students, especially the young men who -belong to the various “corps.” Less than 10 per cent. of the students -are members of these societies, but they color the town, for each corps -has a distinctive cap,—red, yellow, white, etc. These organizations -are the social life of the university, and at all hours of the day -or night they are in evidence, parading with their caps and canes, -occupying the beer-gardens and the promenade, jollying the girl waiters -and having what is called in America a High Old Time. - -[Illustration] - -Everybody has heard of the duel or sword-fighting. It is as much an -institution at Heidelberg as football is at Princeton or K. U. Not many -students take part in it, only members of the six corps, but it is -the show feature of student life. Each corps has about twenty members. -Each member has to fight at least one duel a term with a member of some -other corps. This morning we went to the dueling-place just outside of -the city and saw the game. - -One gets a great deal of misinformation about this student dueling, -but as near as I can find out it is done in a genteel and cold-blooded -manner. When it is the turn of one of the corps members to fight he -makes a face or refuses to salute a member of another corps. That -constitutes cause for the duel, and the preliminaries are then arranged -by the officers of the respective corps according to the rules and -regulations that have come down through generations. The fighting is -done in an inner court of a wine-garden. This morning there were ten -duels on the program, and when we arrived the third was in progress. -A young man of the bright-red-cap corps was trying to slice the face -of a member of the dark-red-cap corps. Each was covered with felt -armor, which protected all of his body, and also had goggles and -nose-pad, a little bit more so than a football player. The seconds, -very similarly attired, stood by the side of the principals and struck -up the swords at the end of each round or when the blood came. The -only unprotected places were the head and face, and the game was to -slash the opponent there, not to stick him. Thrusting is evidently -against the rules. A surgeon with an apron like a butcher attended to -the cuts and the members of both corps stood quietly and calmly by, -giving vent to no expression of feeling whatever. The officers of -each corps saluted, the word was given, the two swords clashed away -for a minute, and each fellow had a nice long cut on his cheek. When -the round was over the seconds sponged the cuts. There is no specified -number of rounds, but whenever the two seconds are satisfied that one -man is cut enough the other is declared the victor and they salute -and retire to get court-plastered or sewed up as is necessary. We saw -four duels and got tired of the fun. In the last fought one of the men -was apparently an experienced swordsman and his opponent apparently a -beginner. (I understand that in order to show his courage a new man -always challenges an expert.) After four rounds the face of the weaker -swordsman was streaming with blood from a half-dozen cuts. I suppose he -looked upon his defeat as a real victory because he showed the fellows -that he could stand up and take punishment and never wince. Some people -have curious ideas of greatness. - -They tell me no one is ever killed in these duels, but every member of -every corps would be considered disfigured for life in America. Every -one of them has long sears on his face and head. The restaurant where -we eat is a favorite resort for the corps and we see much of them. It -looks like a shame that every one of those bright young men will have -to go through life with a face like a war map of Manchuria. But they -wouldn’t trade those sears for love nor money. (I am told they are -good for love.) They are the badges of bravery and ability, and are as -highly prized as the bronze button of the Grand Army man. As I have -remarked, some ambitions are very funny, and if the German students -want to be hand-carved in this manner there is no use of a football-, -prize-fight-loving nation making any kick. - -[Illustration: THE GERMAN WAY.] - -[Illustration] - -Heidelberg is a “wet” town. I suppose half the places on the main -street are beer-gardens and some of the others are wine-rooms. -Everybody in Germany drinks beer and wine. There is this difference -between France and Germany: In France the men do most of the drinking -as they sit in the sidewalk cafés watching the women go by. In Germany -the man brings his wife and children and they all sit around the table -in the garden or restaurants and drink beer. They do not seem to get -intoxicated. I haven’t seen anyone drunk, although they drink by the -wholesale. Beer is high in Heidelberg, up to 2½ cents a quart, but -out in the suburbs it is cheaper. I think beer-drinking makes the -Germans have bad forms, for men and women get round and fat. But in -Germany these forms are considered beautiful, so the sylph-like and the -slender are looked down upon. It is an illustration of the fact that it -is a good thing we don’t all think alike about such things as personal -beauty, or some of us would have to always be away back sitting down. - -[Illustration] - -I have been in Germany a week, and I have not seen a half-dozen men -smoking pipes. I thought Germans were great pipe-smokers, but they -are not in this part. The Heidelberg pipes are mostly made to sell to -Americans and English. The Germans smoke a little the worst cigars I -have ever met. They are cheap in price and the Germans consume them in -large quantities. The kind the high-class Germans use closely resembles -a brand known in our country as “The Pride of the Sewer,” and sells at -about two for 5 cents. An American who is accustomed at home to buying -“a good nickel cigar” can’t find anything that good in Germany, unless -it may be in the big hotels where they cater to American and English -trade. I had always had Germans pictured to me as big fat men with long -pipes in their mouths, sitting around tables on which were large steins -of beer. The beer is here all right, but the men are as bright and -energetic as Americans, and they smoke cigars and not pipes. - -Another dream gone up in smoke. - -[Illustration] - -It is a great country for castles and “legends.” I think the average -yield of legends per acre is larger in Germany than in any other -country on earth, especially in the Black Forest and on the Rhine. That -is one thing our country is short of—legends. Aside from a few old -Indian stories, a tale of woe about the grasshoppers and reminiscences -of the Populists, we haven’t anything that approaches the legends which -hang on almost every tree in the Black Forest and stick out of every -castle-window. And yet Kansas could raise legends as well as Germany, -for a legend is nothing but a lie told so often that nobody knows -where it started; and Kansas has her share of liars. Here is a sample -“legend” from the old castle of Heidelberg which we visited to-day: - - -A HEIDELBERG LEGEND. - -The count of Heidelberg had a beautiful daughter. (They all do—in -legends.) Her reputation for beauty went all over Germany and reached -the shores of Great Britain. The king of England saw the photograph -of the fair lady dressed in her bicycle suit, and instantly fell in -love with her. But he did not want the German beauty to marry him for -his money and title, so he disguised himself as a cook, got a job in -Heidelberg castle and made eyes at the princess. It was a case of -two-hearts-that-beat-as-one, and the princess soon began to make dates -and meet the supposed cook back of the castle and down on the Neckar. -He revealed his real identity to her, but made her promise not to tell. -He then went to the old man and asked him for the hand of his daughter. -The count laughed at the cook, which made the latter mad and so he -blurted out that the maiden loved him. Then the cook skipped out and -the count sent for his daughter. She confessed to being in love with -the cook, but on account of her promise did not tell his right name. -The old count got into an awful rage and ordered his daughter whipped, -and the lash was applied so well that the princess died. Before she -passed away she told her father who the cook really was, and the count -of Heidelberg was truly sorry; but that did no good. A few days later -the king of England with an imposing suite arrived to ask the hand of -the princess, and when he found out what had happened he took the old -man out behind the barn and sliced him up in fine pieces. - -There is a song which tells all about this affair, and the music is -about as good as the legend. - -WORMS AND OTHER THINGS. - - - WORMS, GERMANY, July 23, 1905. - -People do not laugh in Germany when you pronounce the name of this -town properly. Say the word as if it were spelled Vorms and give the o -the long sound, and you will admit that it is better than the way you -used to say it. For many years I have heard of Luther and the Diet of -Worms, and being at Heidelberg, only a few miles away, we came here to -see Worms, the “Diet,” and to spend Sunday. Four hundred years ago this -was quite a town, one of the free cities of the Rhine owing allegiance -only to the emperor. It was here that in 1524 Charles V., emperor of -Germany, summoned Luther to appear before a congress of princes and -imperial electors, and wanted him to fix up a compromise. The emperor -of Germany was in a ticklish position. About half of his subjects were -loyal to the pope and about half had bolted with Luther. The princes -and dukes were divided, and were fighting each other to prove that they -were right. The German empire was demoralized with internal dissension -and feuds. So Charles thought it would be a smooth thing to get Luther -before the august assemblage, induce him to concede some and get the -Catholics to concede some, and have a sort of “Missouri compromise.” -Luther went to Worms, although he was warned not to do so. As a matter -of fact, Luther did not want to separate from the Catholic Church, and -his claim was that he wanted to reform it. But after the controversy -had continued a few years he kept getting further away, and Charles -had made his move too late. Luther laid down certain doctrines which -he knew the loyal Catholics could not agree to, and then announced -that he took his stand upon them and would not move. The result of the -emperor’s effort at peace-making was that each side was a little more -infuriated than before, and the war went on. - -[Illustration] - -A hundred years ago Worms had gone down to be a town of only 5,000 -inhabitants, but now it has about 40,000 and is a thriving little -city. But in spite of the growth and progress in the last century -there is still a general air of quaintness and age which makes it -very interesting because it is so different. A magnificent monument -to Luther is the show feature of the place. On a massive platform ten -feet high is the figure of the great reformer, over nine feet high, -surrounded by statues of Huss, Savonarola, Wyckliffe and Waldus, -and of princes who befriended Luther. A number of German cities are -represented by allegorical figures or coats of arms, and the entire -group makes an impressive monument and memorial. The palace where -Luther met the emperor and princes has been destroyed, but another -takes its place and with a right good imagination the tourist can stand -where Luther stood, any day between the hours of 11 and 5 o’clock. -Strange to say, the town to which Catholics and Protestants came is -now controlled by the Jews, who dominate the business interests of -Worms as they do those of many other German cities. Worms is on the -Rhine river, and the valley of the Rhine is the garden-spot of Germany. -Coming over the fertile fields of the Rhine valley is a good deal -like riding in the Arkansas valley between Nickerson and Haven, with -its rich farms, great orchards and prosperous communities. But in -the hundred miles I have traveled along the Rhine I have not seen a -reaper or a mower, a sulky rake or any other kind of machinery except -a hand-sickle and a hand-rake. I think there are more women at work in -the fields than there are men. Perhaps the men are off in the army. -Perhaps they are in town drinking beer and talking politics. - -[Illustration] - -Coming from Heidelberg to Worms we had to change trains twice in an -hour’s time. Changing trains is no easy job in a foreign country. At -Manheim, where the station is as large and as busy as the Union Depot -in Kansas City, our incoming train was late and when we arrived our -outgoing train was due to leave. With the assistance of a porter I was -handling a half-dozen grips and bundles when Mrs. Morgan discovered our -train at the other side of the depot. She promptly started across the -tracks just as she would at home. I thought there was a revolution or a -fire, as a dozen train porters, as many policemen, the station-master -and a lot of assistants set up a yell that fairly made the air tremble. -The station-master rushed after her, caught up and brought her back, -with at least ten men talking vociferously and gesticulating in German. -The fact was she had broken the law of the empire. It is not merely -violating a railroad rule to cross the track, but it is against the -criminal law and punishable by a jail sentence. Of course they didn’t -do anything to Americans, but if a German should cross the tracks -where it was forbidden they wouldn’t do a thing to him! They actually -held that train five minutes after time while we made a circuit of the -station to the other side, when we could have sensibly and reasonably -have been allowed to cross the track in a half-minute. - -[Illustration] - -Speaking of railroads and the management makes me think of the -conductors. I have ridden first-class, second-class and third-class in -Germany. When the conductor enters the first-class carriage to see the -tickets, he takes off his cap and says in German: “If you please, will -you me your tickets show?” When he comes into the second-class carriage -he says: “Tickets, if you please,” and when you hand them over he gives -them back with a military salute, but keeps his cap on. When he comes -into the third-class carriage he simply says: “Tickets!” - -When the train starts out of the station the station-master (dressed in -a gorgeous uniform) stands on the platform at a salute until the last -car passes him. This is a very pretty custom, and I think the station -agents at Hutchinson ought to be required to put on their uniforms and -salute the trains. - -The almost universal custom in Germany is to eat out-of-doors in the -summer-time. The hotels have spacious porches or gardens, and there we -eat breakfast, dinner, and supper. (They have dinner at noon and supper -in the evening in Germany.) There are no flies, and there seems to be -but little wind, so you can eat comfortably in the open air and not -swallow too much that is not on the bill of fare. It is a sensible and -delightful custom. After the evening meal at the hotels or restaurants -everybody stays at the table for an hour or so, and there is music by -the orchestra or band. The only good feature I can see to the German -army is that it provides nearly every city with a fine band which gives -concerts frequently. The cities and towns usually support bands, and -most of them own theatres and opera-houses. I think we have attended a -band concert every evening since we entered Germany, and we could go in -the afternoon if we had time. - -By the way, right here in Worms, in the part of the city that looks -about as it did in Luther’s time, we were wandering down a narrow -street when we were stopped by familiar music, the popular two-step, -“Whistling Rufus.” The German bands play a great deal of American -music, mostly Sousa’s marches or our “ragtime,” and it always gets -an encore. At Heidelberg the military band played “Hiawatha.” For -two years it has been almost against the law in the United States to -play “Hiawatha.” But the Germans liked it. I don’t think the German -bands play ragtime properly. They go at it seriously, as they do -the selections from Wagner and such like which make up most of the -program. They add a good deal of noise and they do not get the “swing” -that is given by American musicians. - -I have discovered in Germany that Wagner and his kind of composers -wrote a lot of good music that never gets across the water, the kind -that has tune to it,—not so much tune as Sousa’s pieces, but a good -deal more than is ever rendered in the United States. And I suppose -the German bands understand Wagnerian music better than the American -bands, just as Sousa can direct a better two-step or march than a -German conductor. A German municipal band or military band, such -as plays every night in one of the public parks in every city, is -as good a band as Sousa or Innes ever took on the road. I am not a -musical critic, I am thankful to say. I like music whether it is good, -bad, or indifferent. I like grand opera some and light opera a great -deal. I enjoy a fine band or a poor one, a selection from Chopin or -a street piano. I will follow a band, a drum corps or a bagpipe all -over town. I am even fond of the “Blue Bells of Scotland.” Probably my -recommendations will not be accepted by all the musical experts at home -after these admissions, but I can’t keep from saying that German band -music is the best in this world to which I have been introduced. - -[Illustration] - -I have written of the growing use of the English-American language -on the continent of Europe. Here at Worms we are stopping at a very -Dutch hotel. When the waiter came for the first time I went to work in -German. The construction of a supper bill of fare in German is not -easy for me, but I tackled the job bravely. I know enough German to -order meat and potatoes, but my pronunciation is ragged on the edges -and my verbs are not hitched right and the genders of the nouns are -only likely to be right one guess in three. After I had floundered -along for about three minutes the waiter gravely and politely -interrupted: “Won’t you please give me the order in English?” RICH OLD -FRANKFORT. - - - FRANKFORT, GERMANY, July 24, 1905. - -This is one of the old and wealthy cities of Germany, with 300,000 -people and a fine country around about. It is the place the Rothschilds -came from. A few years ago when the Populists were pretty much the -whole thing in Kansas and to be against them was to be in the pay of -the Rothschilds and the Great Red Dragon, I was on the Rothschilds’ -side, and never having received any compensation I thought I would call -and see what was the matter. It was no trouble to find the Rothschild -house, for it is described in every guidebook and is marked by an -inscription on the front. The morning after we reached the city we -went to formally make a call, and found the place to be an old and -unpretentious building. I rang the bell and asked the little girl who -came to the door if Mr. Rothschild was at home. She ran away and I went -on in and part way up the stairs, when a man appeared and said “fifty -pfennig.” I told him I was an old friend and merely wished to pay my -respects—pay nothing else, not even fifty pfennig. I talked English -and he talked German, but I had no difficulty in understanding that -it would cost me 12½ cents American money to go through the house. -This I declined to do, and unless the gentleman who wanted the fifty -pfennig tells Mr. Rothschild I don’t suppose he will ever know I came. -In fact, I was afterward told that none of the present members of the -Rothschild family live in Frankfort, but have their homes in Vienna, -Paris, and London, where they dictate the financial policy of the -world. Only a little over a hundred years ago the law of Frankfort was -that every night at sundown and on Sundays and feast days all Jews must -stay in their own part of town, and the gates inclosing their section -were locked until the following day. As an illustration of how rapidly -the wheel of fortune turns I was told that now, although comprising -but one-tenth of the population, the Jews handle three-fourths of the -business, own over half the real estate, and hold most of the high and -responsible positions in Frankfort, where their great grandfathers had -no more show than a rabbit. - -[Illustration] - -Goethe, the great German poet, was born in Frankfort, and we visited -the house of his birth and boyhood. His father was a lawyer, but the -poet could not help that. Young Goethe was a bright lad, and took to -writing poetry as readily as he did to going with the girls; and he -kept at both occupations all his life. A petty German prince took -him under his patronage and Goethe never had to work for a living, -so he went on writing poetry and having a good time until he died -at the age of 83 years. The Germans love Goethe as the Americans do -Longfellow, for he was a poet who loved his country, his countrymen -and his country-women, and his works are full of sweet and patriotic -sentiment as well as being beautiful in construction. Goethe and his -friend Schiller and the literary crowd which followed their lead, made -the German language classical and correct, and occupy the same place in -German literature that Shakespeare does in English. The “Goethe house” -here is under the charge of a historical society, and has been put in -the same shape that it was when Goethe was a boy. It is an interesting -place, for it is not only full of mementoes of the poet but of the time -in which he lived. - -[Illustration] - -The most interesting public buildings I have seen in Germany are here, -the “Roemer,” a name applied to a group of twelve old and picturesque -houses. In one of these the electors of the German empire (certain -hereditary princes) would assemble to elect an emperor whenever there -was a vacancy. After the election they would have a banquet and the -fountain in the public square would run with red and white wine while -the people cheered and drank the health of the new man. This was -calculated to make the emperor very popular at least that night, but -I wonder if the people were so enthusiastic when the headache came -the next morning. These old buildings are well preserved. In fact, -Frankfort is a city which takes good care of itself and is like a -prosperous man. The most beautiful public garden I have seen is here, -the Palm Garden, and a fine military band gives concerts afternoon and -evening. Frankfort is not only well off, but old enough to enjoy the -fact, and everywhere the city is made to look as handsome and be as -comfortable as possible. The best and cheapest eating in Europe is in -Frankfort, and that fact has made a deep and lasting impression on my -heart. - -[Illustration] - -It is doubtless repeating what has been said before, but I cannot help -wonder at the industry of the German farmers. Of course they were -raised right on the place, and their fathers and forefathers were -farmers. They probably don’t know anything else, and never expect to -sell out and move to town. In this fertile Rhine country, where there -seems to be a model climate, they irrigate the land as if it were arid -and they fertilize and drain and cultivate with the hoe and rake. -I never believed the story, but it is true. The wealth of a German -farmer can be gauged by the size of the manure-pile in his front yard. -No doubt when a German farmer brags on what he has done he does not -refer to the purchase of a quarter-section of pasture land in the next -township, but points with pride to the large and luxuriant heap of -fertilizing substance which he can call his own. Instead of farming -more land, he tries to get more out of what he has than he did, and his -attempt is a success. He does not have a herd of cattle, but he has one -or a half-dozen cows which live in the other end of the house, and are -curried, fed and looked after as carefully as members of the family, -perhaps more so. The cattle are good-looking, smooth and polished, -evidently well bred, and certainly well taken care of. They are much -better in appearance than the average of American cattle, but the care -bestowed upon them easily accounts for the fact. - -Frankfort is geographically in Hesse, the old state from which George -III. hired soldiers to fight the Americans. In the good old times a -little over a hundred years ago, a German prince who was hard up for -cash would rent out his soldiers to fight and be shot at. The pay went -to the prince, not to the soldier. It is hard to believe that such -things occurred only a comparatively short time ago, and yet they did. -The Hessians did not understand American tactics and were not much of a -success in our Revolution, but they were always good fighters in German -wars, and the little state was a powerful one. Frankfort was a “free -city,” and not under the active rule of the Hessian princes. For 500 -years it kept its independence of any local prince, but in 1866 it was -annexed to Prussia. The time for the independent cities of Europe was -ended. - -Besides Rothschild and Goethe, Frankfort is noted for the Frankfurter -sausages. I was pleased to find that this was no legend. In Bologna, -Italy, I was surprised to find no bologna, but Frankfort stood the -test. There is also a house where it is said Luther preached a sermon -while on his way to Worms. It is a tobacco-shop now. - -[Illustration] - -In every German city there is an old bridge with a history. The old -bridge at Frankfort across the Main river, which is a good big river -and lined with freight boats, is mentioned in a document of 1222. It -is constructed of red sandstone, and looks as if it would easily stand -700 years more. A bridge like that is really worth more than an art -gallery. The legend connected with the bridge is not so bad. It seems -that the architect who drew the plans and supervised the construction -had made a mistake in his calculations. He came to realize that the -span would not hold weight, and he could see the ruin of the bridge -and his own reputation mighty close at hand. Of course he was in a -terrible state of mind, and when he was at his worst the Devil dropped -in to see him. The Devil offered to show him how the defect could be -remedied, the bridge built and his reputation saved, if he would sign -a contract that the first who crossed the bridge should become the -Devil’s property. The poor architect at first nobly refused, as most -men do when tempted, and then fell, as men occasionally do. He signed -the contract, the Devil pointed out the correction in the plan, and -the great bridge was successfully finished. Then the architect had -remorse (they always do afterward), and nearly went wild with thinking -of what he had done. But the day the bridge was formally finished and -turned over, before the mayor and city council could get into their -carriages after the dedicating speeches, a rooster broke loose from a -chicken-house, ran down the road, across the bridge and went to the -Devil. Of course the Devil kicked, but the architect stood on the -letter of the contract, and they all lived happy forever afterward. -This legend is undoubtedly true, for on the middle of the bridge is an -iron cross with a figure of Christ and on top of the cross is a bronze -rooster. - -DOWN THE RHINE. - - - COLOGNE, GERMANY, July 29, 1905. - -The words “Down the Rhine” have a strong significance to everyone who -has read history, poetry, or romance. From the time when Cæsar crossed -the Rhine to punish the warlike tribes for invading Gaul, down to the -Franco-German war of 1870, every European war has been fought more -or less in the valley of the Rhine. And for 2,000 years whenever the -nations of Europe were not marching their armies to the Rhine, the -petty princes, potentates and powers of the valley were fighting one -another. The Rhine is the dividing line in Europe. Those who have read -these letters to The News will appreciate the fact that instead of -going to the large cities of Munich, Berlin and Hanover, we began with -the Rhine as it flowed out of Lake Constance and plunged over the falls -at Neuhausen, and have followed it through the Black Forest and Germany -on its way “down north” to the sea, and will finally watch it mingle -its blue into the great salt water at Rotterdam and The Hague. - -The last two days we have traveled by boat from Biebrich to Cologne, -that part of the river which is called the scenic or “the castled -Rhine,” the part of which poets have sung and around which history and -fiction have woven stories and legends in every language. But the Rhine -is not only useful for the poet and the historian; it is also a plain -business proposition. I am told and I believe that the Rhine carries -more traffic than any other river in the world. It flows through a rich -agricultural country, is lined with important cities, and especially -with manufacturing places. Freight rates on the water are cheap. -Products of the farm or vineyard, the shop or mill, placed on the -boats, are carried with only one transfer to all the great markets of -the world. - -[Illustration] - -And now imagine the beautiful Rhine gliding among high hills, with -every few miles a handsome castle or the picturesque ruins of one, with -a busy railroad running on each bank, passenger and freight trains as -frequent as suburban trains near Chicago, and two endless processions -of steamboats, tugs and barges, one going up and one going down. That -is the Rhine of to-day. The hills and castles reminiscent of the past, -the black smoke of the furnaces and the shrill whistle of the engine -the reminders of the present. You have to shut your eyes to see either -the historic or the beautiful and keep them from “telescoping” into the -practical present. And I will admit that the boats and the boatmen, -the passengers and the freight interested me more than the dead-walls -and the ivy-covered towers. If you think it over you will realize how -castles and ruins pall upon your taste. When we began the trip we -would rush from one side of the boat to the other to see a castle and -hardly went below for lunch for fear we might miss a lofty summit or -a breasted fortress. At the close of the trip a broken-down abbey or -a roofless castle had no charms that would compare with a comfortable -seat and a cigar. I remember well one of the last and largest castles -we passed, one I had read of and looked forward to seeing. A friend -enthusiastically exclaimed: “There is the Drachenfels on the other -side!” And my coarse nature revolted, and I murmured that if the -Drachenfels wanted me to see it, the Drachenfels would have to come -around to my side of the boat. My neck was tired. - -[Illustration] - -Really a homeopathic dose of Rhine castles would be very interesting. A -thousand years ago some baron would build a big stone fortress high up -on a hill overlooking the Rhine, and up to the discovery of gunpowder -it was practically impregnable. The baron and his followers, according -to the rules of the game, would divide their time between rescuing -lovely maidens from giants and robbing the merchants and traders who -passed by. I never heard of a knight or baron who worked for a living. -History is filled with tales of deeds the old knights did for religion -or for some fair lady, but it is silent or passes over lightly the -fact that they made their money by robbery and murder, disguised under -the name of expeditions, crusades, knight-errantry, and war. But when -the inventive genius of man made a gun that would shoot through armor -and discovered that gunpowder could knock down forts, the days of -chivalry and highway robbery on the Rhine were over. The merchants and -artisans no longer had to hire armies to protect their property and -their families, and the rule of force was followed by the rule of -shrewdness, a change which may not have brought perfection, but has -resulted in a show of decency, fairness and honesty. - -[Illustration] - -A few old castles transported from the Rhine to Cow creek or the Kaw -would be helpful to the landscape of Kansas. But there would be no use -of stringing them out for a hundred miles. A castle a thousand years -old is interesting, always provided your imagination is good. The best -way to enjoy castles is to believe everything the books and guides -tell you. I am getting fascinated with the legends, although I think -I can unfasten. Now here is a choice legend of the castles of the Two -Brothers, which stand on neighboring hills and which I saw early: - - -THE TWO BROTHERS. - -Once upon a time there were two brothers, both as valiant and noble -knights as ever wore armor or robbed a traveler. Unfortunately they -fell in love with the same girl, and as she couldn’t accept both and -had to say she would “always be a sister” to the other, the tension in -the family circle got very tight. Finally the elder brother saw that -the maiden loved the younger best, so he put his broken heart in his -pocket, gave the pair his blessing and lit out for the crusades. In -those days whenever a man lost out in love or was in danger of being -hung for crime, he went to the crusades. The younger brother was very -happy for a while, but he happened to visit another country and there -he fell in love with another girl, just as much and as eternally in -love with her as with the first one. The second girl was wise or else -she had been warned of the young man’s record, for she announced the -engagement and the marriage followed soon. Girl No. 1 went to a convent -with an aching heart, everybody settled down, and even the neighbors -quit talking. Just at that time the elder brother returned from the -crusades, and when he heard what had happened he thought it was awful. -He went to his brother’s castle and challenged him to fight a duel. -The younger brother was worked up over the interference of the family -in his private affairs and was anxious to fight. The two knights met -in a plum-patch back of the convent and prepared to settle which was -right. Just as they drew their swords the original girl, who had been -informed of what was going on by some busybody, rushed out of the gate, -threw herself between the brothers and begged them not to fight for her -sake. She made such a good talk that they shook hands and took a drink -together as a sign that it was all over. The elder brother offered to -marry the girl in the convent, but she refused. The wife of the younger -brother ran off with another chivalrous knight and the two brothers -were left alone in the world. They built the two castles side by side, -and spent all their days together hunting deer and wealthy travelers, -and died without ever flirting with another woman (so the legend says). -The ruins of the two castles side by side are evidence of the truth of -the story. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: THE LEGEND OF COW CREEK.] - -“Fair Bingen on the Rhine” was somewhat of a disappointment. Thousands -and tens of thousands of American girls and boys have stood up in -front of the school on Friday afternoons, scared stiff with the awful -prospect of forgetting the next word, and told their school-mates: - - “A soldier of the legion lay dying in Algiers, - There was lack of woman’s nursing, - There was dearth of woman’s tears.” - -And when the same moon shone there that shone on fair Bingen on the -Rhine, those countless American youths have breathed a sigh for the -soldier and several sighs over getting through. Bingen is a good sort -of manufacturing town, and the fact that the poet selected the name -because of its rhythm and not because it fitted the situation accounts -for the success of the poem. After some reflection on the subject among -the storied regions of Europe I have come to the conclusion that it is -the romancer and the singer who make a country great and interesting, -and not any special merit of the place itself. If Cow creek had a few -legend-writers in a few years it would rank with the Rhine, the Black -Forest, and even the fields of old England. How would this do for a Cow -creek legend, _a la_ Europe? - - -LEGEND OF COW CREEK. - -Once upon a time there lived on the creek a wealthy old farmer who -had a beautiful daughter. The fame of her beauty spread all the way -to Sterling and down to Pretty Prairie, and many young men aspired to -the honor of her hand in marriage. Among those who loved her was a -neighbor boy who had nothing to his credit but a good name and a rare -ability to make speeches before the literary society which met every -other Friday night at the school-house. As the good name was no good -on a check, he knew the old farmer would not listen to his suit but -would likely kick him into the middle of next week if he asked him for -his daughter. So all the poor young man could do was to see her home -occasionally after church and talk about the soulfulness of love and -the communion of congenial souls. The young lady really preferred the -aforesaid young man, but as she did not want to undertake the job of -making a living for two or more, and she knew her father would never -consent to taking him to board, she could only sigh and pine and sit in -the shade of a cottonwood tree and dream of love. At last the father -told his beautiful daughter that he had selected a husband for her, a -man from Nickerson, a man who owned two sections of land and a lot of -oil stock, but who could not tell the difference between true love and -a pain in his side. That night the two young people met down by the -creek bank and she told him of the fate in store for her unless he got -a move on himself. Their plan was formed. That night the lover braced -himself with a good “bracer” and met the maiden behind the barn. Away -they went toward the county seat with high hopes and enough cash to -purchase a marriage license. Suddenly they heard the gentle murmur of -the father, who had discovered the elopers and was telling the people -for miles around what he would do to the son of a gun who was running -off with his daughter. It was a race for love and for life, but the old -man was getting the best of it and the lovers could hear him as he was -overtaking them. They came to the creek, which was on its annual flood, -and then they gave themselves up for lost. But the young man happened -to look around and saw an old cow. An idea came into his head. He drove -the cow into the creek and each of them grabbed her tail. She swam -straight to the other side while the old man stood on the bank cursing -a blue streak. Away they went to town and were married by the probate -judge before the flood went down and the old man could get across. - -There was nothing for the father to do but to give them his blessing -and eighty acres of sand-hill land, on which they lived happily ever -afterward. The stream which thus saved the lives and loves of those two -young people has been called Cow creek ever since. - -[Illustration] - -If the people of Kansas will take a few stories like the above, have -them trimmed up and embellished, tell them to visitors and charge -admission to see the relics, they will have as good a collection of -legends as ever grew on the Rhine. - -COLOGNE WATER AND OTHERS. - - - COLOGNE, GERMANY, July 29, 1905. - -This is the place the eau de cologne habit started. There are over -forty manufacturers who advertise themselves as “the original house” -that first made this perfumed water. A few miles below here on the -Rhine is the Apollinaris spring. I always supposed Apollinaris water -came from the drug store, but there really is an original spring. It -got its name from St. Apollinaris, who was a prominent church-worker a -thousand years ago, and had his head chopped off by the heathen. The -head is still preserved in a church and his name goes marching on with -a label on the bottle. The highest cathedral I have seen in Europe is -at Cologne, the top of the spire being 510 feet above the ground. It is -a beautiful cathedral of Gothic architecture. The plans were made and a -good part of the structure completed about eight hundred years before -it was finished, the latter part of the job being done only a few years -ago. The legend of the beginning of the cathedral is very authentic. -The architect had spent several years on the drawings, but was not able -to finish them satisfactorily to himself or the building committee. -One night he had a dream, and in the vision saw just what had been -lacking. But when he awoke he could not remember the design, and as is -usual in such cases he said he would give anything to have it. The -Devil promptly showed up and offered to reveal the wonderful plan if -the architect would sign a contract to give in payment his own soul and -also the soul of the first who should enter the church after it was -completed. The architect tried to beat the Devil down on the price, -but could not, and finally signed. The Devil lived up to his part -of the contract, and the completed plans were so beautiful that the -church authorities and the emperor and the city council were unanimous -in declaring the architect the greatest man in his profession. As -the church neared completion the architect began to worry. He took -to drink, and went around carousing so that his friends thought he -was crazy. Finally he confessed to the archbishop and it got into the -newspapers, so the community was stirred up. No one was willing to be -the first to go into the church, and yet if the great cathedral was to -amount to anything, somebody must enter it. Finally a bad woman who was -confined in jail sent word to the church board that she would be the -victim. After due deliberation, and believing that she would go to the -Devil anyhow, they accepted her offer. The day of dedication came. The -people gathered from far and near. A carriage drove from the police -station and backed up to the church door. Out of the wagon and into the -building dashed a female form and the Devil in great glee grabbed, and -broke its neck. But it was only a pig which the smart bad woman had -fixed up in her clothes. So the Devil was cheated, the cathedral was -dedicated, and all went right except for the architect, who was found -with a broken neck and smelling of sulphur, for the Devil in his rage -didn’t do a thing to him. - -[Illustration] - -Cologne has over 300,000 inhabitants and is a very busy city. This -morning we went to the market. The grocery stores in Cologne and in -all the German cities I have visited practically never keep green -groceries. Everything of that kind is bought at the public market, -which is a very interesting sight. From all the country around come -the farmers and the farmers’ wives with the produce of the garden, and -from all over the city come the housewives or the maids, each with -a big basket. The trading is brisk, and as it is nearly all done by -women on both sides, there is some talk and the shopping habit is seen -in all its glory. Then there is the fish market, the flower market, -the poultry market, and even the old-clothes market. I am sure that -in the big market-house and on the streets and the square in Cologne -this morning there were two thousand vendors of goods, from potatoes to -second-hand hats and from luscious fruit to old candle-sticks,—nearly -everything conceivable that could be brought to the open-air market and -sold. The market is still retained in a few old American towns, but to -me it is a novelty with a never-fading charm, and in nearly every city -where I have stopped the market has been a sight that I did not miss. - -[Illustration] - -Next to the market the restaurant or beer- and wine-garden is the place -to see the people. The Germans eat breakfast, dinner at noon, supper -at 6 o’clock, and once more about 10 o’clock. From 7 o’clock to 10 -o’clock the whole family sits in the public garden drinking beer or -wine (not much, but long), listening to the music and getting hungry -for the fourth meal of the day. There are restaurants everywhere—in -the public buildings, the art galleries, the churches, on the -sidewalks, and in the parks. I have not been to a German cemetery, but -I would confidently expect to find there a garden with tables where one -could get something to eat and drink. - -[Illustration] - -The valley of the Rhine for more than a hundred miles is one vast -vineyard, and the word valley includes the hillsides. The hills are -high. The vines begin close to the water’s edge, the vineyards being -sometimes terraced and sometimes on a slope so steep that the men and -women who cultivate them must wear climbers like telegraph linemen. -It is a beautiful sight at this season of the year with the lofty -heights clothed in green and pointing up into the blue sky, with brown -old ruined taverns and castles and white châteaus and villas here and -there among the green. One would wonder what could be done with all -the grapes that must come from such a great vineyard if he did not -look around him and see everybody drinking the juice and evidently -endeavoring to keep pace with the production. At Coblentz the Moselle -river joins the Rhine, and it is another charming valley full of -history, poetry and grapes. Coblentz is old and quaint, with narrow -streets, old-fashioned people, and the appearance of ancient days. -On this trip I have seen a good deal of the German people. The class -distinctions are about all that make them different from Americans. The -poor folks always expect to be poor and do not move around with the -aggressive action that ours do. I suppose I talked with a hundred, and -every one of them wanted to come to America. Mechanics and artisans, -very skillful, are not altogether satisfied with conditions, and they, -too, talk America. But the great middle class of farmers and merchants -are as full of patriotism and conceit as are true American citizens. -They think Germany is the greatest nation on earth, and that all the -countries will eventually admit the fact and take subordinate places. -They don’t like America or England, and they expect sometime to have -war with us unless we give up easier than they anticipate. The typical -German is not slow or easy-going, as he is often painted, but is -energetic, pushing and “chesty.” He thinks Germany can lick the United -States with one hand tied behind, and is ready to have the work begin -any time. In fact, Germans are just as offensively and ignorantly -patriotic as are Americans, which is saying a good deal, for Americans -in Europe nearly always go around with a chip on either shoulder, -daring somebody to knock it off. - -[Illustration] - -But the Germans are gentlemen. For the first time since I left Paris -I saw men in the street cars give their seats to ladies. In Italy the -rule is for the man to have first consideration. It makes American -women furious when they meet Italian men on the narrow sidewalks to -have to get off into the streets and let the gentlemen pass by. But -they must do it or the men will simply walk over them. In Germany the -women in the country work in the fields and in the cities they are in -the shops and offices more than in the United States, but they are -treated decently and politely. The German is in fact more polite than -the Frenchman. He even tips his hat to his man friends. If I go into -a store to buy a cigar the proprietor or clerk who waits on me will -say “good-morning” and “good-by.” They do this with one another, and -do not keep their company manners for strangers. German hotels are the -best in Europe, and one of the customs is during the meal at hotel or -restaurant for the proprietor to walk around and pleasantly greet his -patrons, whether he knows them or not, on the comfortable theory that -they are his guests. Germans are always willing to guide and advise -strangers and they don’t take “tips,” at least not any more than in -America. Germany is wealthy and prosperous as a nation and the Germans -one meets when traveling are about the best folks you find in Europe. - -[Illustration] - -In Germany a landlord advertises his hotel as “first-class” or -“second-class.” The second-class hotels are clean and good, but they -have some mighty funny names. I had learned in England not to get -worried over the signs of “The Red Lion,” “The White Bull,” etc. But -German hotel-keepers go still further. They name their places after -animals of all kinds and colors, and often saints and imaginary -creatures. The Golden Calf, The Winged Lion, The House of the Weaned -Calf, The Wild Man, were some of the names, but at Heidelberg one -extreme was reached by the “Hotel Jesus,” and at Worms the other -extreme by the “Hotel of the Two Pairs of Drawers.” I suppose every -name has a story or a legend behind it and the name is a valuable asset -of the property. Speaking of names reminds me that here in Cologne the -street that leads to the market-place is called “Kingdom of Heaven -street,” and not far away is the “Grace of God street.” I can see how -these names might be properly used in Kansas, but they are out of place -in Cologne. - -HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. - -IN DUTCH LAND. - - - AMSTERDAM, HOLLAND, July 31, 1905. - -The kingdom of Holland is a little bit of a country, but it has exerted -a great influence in history. In size it is 12,650 square miles, not -as large as the Seventh congressional district of Kansas, but it has -over 5,000,000 inhabitants and is busy from one end to the other. The -greater part lies below the level of the sea, which borders it on the -west and has been literally reclaimed from the water by the energy -and work of the people. The Hollanders are the Dutch, and they have a -saying: “God made the sea, but we made the land.” The water is held -back by immense dikes, and here in Amsterdam I look toward the sea and -the great lot of shipping along the quay is higher than the tops of -many of the houses; that is, the water is higher than the roofs in the -town. The industry which has thus driven back and held back the sea has -made little Holland a wealthy nation and Dutch capital has not only -built up business at home, but it has gone into the farthermost parts -of the earth, even to Missouri and Arkansas, constructed railroads, -started factories and earned dividends or gone into the hands of -receivers in large amounts. The country is covered with canals about as -Kansas is with section-line roads. These canals are used for commerce, -carrying freight cheaply, and for drainage, irrigation, and in place -of fences. Every farm has its little canal leading to a main canal -as a farmer’s road in Kansas goes out to the main traveled road. The -farmer brings his stuff to town in a canal-boat, and a farm-wagon -is almost as rare a sight in Holland as a canal-boat is in Kansas. -In wet seasons the canals are used as drains and in dry seasons as -irrigating-ditches. Canals are built above the level of the land, so -that irrigation is easy, and for drainage the water is collected in -ditches and pumped up into the canals. All of these facts I had read -about, as has everyone else, but to actually see such a country was -like a dream come true. - -[Illustration] - -There is more sky in Holland than anywhere else. The land is flatter -than a Kansas prairie. The scenery would be absolutely nothing if it -were not for the works of man upon the surface. There are no hills in -Holland, no rushing streams, no picturesque bits of nature. Some of -the land looks lower than the rest, but none looks higher, and the -water from the big rivers that enter Holland on the east simply oozes -through the soil and canals, without a perceptible current and really -without river-beds or water-courses. The Rhine spreads out until it is -fifty miles wide, but it is no longer a river,—merely a network of -canals which it supplies with water, and its old channels are now made -by dikes and drainage into farms and town-sites. The landscape thus -becomes a flat, fertile country, mostly farmed in grass and pastured -with cattle and sheep, a lace-work of canals in shiny streaks running -in every direction, narrow red brick houses with white trimmings, -and windmills which tower above everything else and stand like giant -sentinels over the low and level country. These windmills are big, -fifty to a hundred feet high, the lower part usually used as dwellings, -constructed as strongly and stoutly as government buildings, and -with four immense arms or sails which convert the Dutch zephyrs into -horsepower. The windmills are used for grinding grain, sawing lumber -and in all kinds of manufacturing, as well as to pump water from the -low ground to the canals and into the sea. A Kansas windmill compared -to a Dutch windmill would be like a straw beside an oak tree. - -Very often in Europe I have been compelled to draw on my imagination to -make the actual facts come within speaking distance of what had been -written or promised about a country. Not so in Holland. Everything I -have ever read about dikes, canals and windmills is true, and nothing -you have been able to imagine is beyond the real existing condition and -appearance. - -[Illustration] - -Yes, there is one thing, and I wonder if other people would feel the -same way. In the pictures and on the china the windmills, the cows and -even the people have always been blue. Of course I knew better, but -when I found that a Holland landscape was not blue and white, I felt as -if I had been deceived. The sky is blue, but the windmills are browned -with exposure, the cows are black-and-white, and the people are not -any more blue in Holland than they are in Newton. - -[Illustration] - -The ride from Cologne, Germany, to Amsterdam, down the valley of -the Rhine, which is no longer picturesque or lined with castles and -legends, gave me my introduction to Holland. Most of it is the kind of -country in which a traveler can enjoy reading a good book. After the -first enthusiastic demonstration over windmills,—and they are more -numerous than telegraph posts along the Santa Fe,—and the excitement -of watching canal-boats having died out, Holland is not a country -that causes thrills. There is a strange effect created on seeing a -canal-boat in a canal a little distance off. You see a sailboat or a -steamboat apparently sailing right through a pasture. You can’t see the -water, and the effect is as if ships were really gliding over the grass -and fields. - -The canals are generally at least fifty feet wide and at least six feet -deep. There are many good-sized boats. The power used is of different -kinds: steam, sails, horses, men, women. Steamboats are numerous. Sails -are used on nearly all, at least to help. Very often a man is hitched -to a rope and sometimes a woman, with a regular harness so that the -pull comes on the breast and shoulders. Dogs are not used to haul -canal-boats, but they are the usual motive-power in the towns for small -delivery-wagons, milk-wagons and the like. - -[Illustration: CANALLING IN HOLLAND—THE EXTENSION OF WOMAN’S SPHERE.] - -The people of Holland, especially outside the cities, stick to their -old peculiar costumes better than do the people of any other country -in Europe that I have seen. The originals of the quaint Dutch pictures -are here and numerous. The women wear the foolish bonnets, funny short -full skirts, woolen stockings and wooden shoes, and the men the odd -hats, clothes that bag between the hips and knees, and the wooden -shoes that turn up like sled-runners. The wooden shoes are not worn -in the house, but shaken off as the person enters and a pair of cloth -shoes substituted. I suppose that is a ground rule made by the Dutch -housewives, whose propensity for scrubbing and cleanliness is well -known. But in spite of the deserved reputation, I do not think that -Holland is as clean a country as it is advertised. The canals are close -to being stagnant water, and as all the dirt and sewage goes into -them there is an odor about Holland that comes near the smell you get -from old cheese. Especially in the towns and cities where the canals -form the principal streets, I can’t escape the idea that they are a -good deal like open sewers. The water is changed by pumping, but not -often, and after it stands a while over the stuff thrown in one would -think from the noticeable odor that it would breed sickness. They say -it is not very bad, but it would cause a big kick in America—the -newspapers would go after the city council a plenty for permitting such -a nuisance. - -A good deal has been said and written in the United States of recent -years in regard to the “emancipation of women.” The extension of civil -and legal rights to persons of the female sex has been properly the -subject of general congratulation. The club movement has done a great -work in forcing a recognition of the work of women equally with the -work of men. Prior to coming to Europe I had supposed that the women of -the United States had made more progress along these lines than those -of any other country. But I was mistaken. The women of Europe are far -ahead of the women of America in the equality of the sexes. A women -in continental Europe not only has the right to go out in the field -and labor, but she can work on the roads, and she can engage in any -business that a man can. In Italy I saw women harnessed alongside of -dogs and in Holland I find them harnessed to canal-boats, the same as -men. If there is any kind of work in Europe that a man can do in which -women cannot and do not engage I have not discovered it, except the -occupation of wearing military uniforms. The mercantile and shopkeeping -business is almost entirely given over to women, and the right to carry -trunks, shine shoes, sell papers and act as porters is not denied them. -The men seem to be perfectly willing to let the women do the work, and -the emancipation seems to have been accomplished without trouble of any -kind. - -[Illustration] - -The Dutch language is more like the English than like the German, with -which it is classed. With my little knowledge of German I can read the -Dutch signs and make a stagger at the newspapers, for there is more -English than German in the written words. But the Dutch as a spoken -language is like neither the German nor English. When two Dutchmen have -a social, quiet chat it sounds like a buzz-saw. I can usually make a -Dutchman understand me, but when it comes to my grasping the meaning of -his talk I had as soon try to interpret the remarks of a file. It is -ridiculous the way you have to change language every few hours’ ride -in Europe. But I quit trying when I came to the Dutch. They will have -to talk English or make signs in order to get my money; and again I am -brought to the conclusion that no matter what is the language of the -country, “money talks.” - - - - -THE DAM DUTCH TOWNS. - - - THE HAGUE, HOLLAND, Aug. 2, 1905. - -Before leaving Amsterdam we took a trip through several little Dutch -villages and to the island of Maarken, where the fisher-people continue -to wear their eighteenth-century costumes in the progressive, stylish -twentieth century. As a very pleasing incident of this journey we -happened to reach Maarken at the same time with Queen Wilhelmina, so we -not only got to see a live queen but in the excitement in the village -escaped the attention usually given to American tourists by a thrifty -people who have curios to sell. Queen Wilhelmina was a disappointment. -I had been prepared to see a charming girlish sovereign, and I guess -I was looking for something like a bright American girl with her hair -hanging down her back. The queen is only 24 years old, but she looks -30. She wore a cheap-looking white suit which probably cost 30 cents -a yard, American money. Her face was faded and so was her hat. She -has large feet, wears coarse shoes, and her stockings wrinkled around -the ankle like a fisherwoman’s. The stolidity of the Dutch was too -much for me. The queen walked through the village, and while everybody -turned out to see her there was not a cheer. When she passed the little -group of a half-dozen Americans we took off our hats and gave a loud -hurrah, just to show our friendship. She didn’t smile or look around, -and we felt as cheap as she looked. In appearance she is sad and -uninteresting. In America a governor or a president would have smiled -and spoken cheerfully. But the queen of Holland does not have to run -for reëlection, and I suppose that has a salutary effect on American -statesmen. I will confess right now that my observations of European -nobility have been made at a distance. I have not been mingling with -the dukes and counts, but have received most of my impressions from -the hotel clerks, the hackmen, the store-keepers and the workingmen. -They are always glad to talk or make signs to Americans, and I have -not met one laboring man who did not say he wanted to come to America. -In the smoking-rooms and around the hotels I have talked some with -the so-called “upper classes.” They don’t like America or England. I -think the rulers of continental Europe and all the lords and valets are -afraid America and England are going to combine with Japan and rule -the world. The leading newspapers are full of that kind of talk, and -while it is laughable to find that they think the American people are -planning an invasion of Europe, it has a satisfactory side in the fact -that it shows they think we could do it if we tried. The ruling classes -are hostile politically to America. On the other hand, the working -people are very friendly. The kings and nobles know that their jobs -would not last long under American ideas. And the workingmen think that -America means a chance to earn more than a mere living. Both classes -have instinctively taken a position on the American question, and I -don’t blame them. - -[Illustration] - -Amsterdam is the biggest city in Holland and is the capital, but the -queen and court reside at The Hague. Amsterdam is rich in commerce, -but is beneath the level of the sea, rather unsightly, and perhaps -unhealthy. The Hague is about as high as the sea-level and is on -real land, not the drained and reclaimed sort. It has some beautiful -streets and thousands of acres of woods which are kept in comparatively -original condition and used for parks and drives. The two cities are -only an hour’s ride apart, and The Hague is becoming the residence city -for wealthy Dutchmen. Amsterdam is one of the financial centers of -the world. The Hague is one of the political centers of the world. On -account of its size Holland is not considered dangerous, and therefore -presents a convenient meeting-place for international conferences. We -visited the palace known as “The House in the Woods,” where the peace -conference was held in 1899, on the suggestion of the czar of Russia, -and in which twenty-six governments were represented. The actual result -was not much, but an international court at The Hague was provided to -which nations can submit disputed questions if they wish, and probably -after the Japs get through with the czar so he can call another peace -conference, further steps will be taken to prevent or mitigate the -horrors of war. Andrew Carnegie, the same gentleman who put up the -money for the Hutchinson public library, has promised $1,500,000 -to erect an international court-house at The Hague which will be a -suitable place for what might be called an international supreme court. -One great weight which every European power has holding down its -progress is the necessity of maintaining a large standing army and thus -withdrawing from active production a big per cent. of its workers. The -governments of Europe know this and talk of “disarming,” but each one -is afraid the others won’t do it. And I also have a guess coming that -some of the kings and queens would worry a little over the future of -their jobs if they did not have the big armies at their command. - -The Dutch are a hard-working lot. They get up earlier than the people -of any other country I have seen in Europe. And as the entire family -works, from the grandmother to the dog, they accumulate wealth as a -nation and as individuals. The ordinary dwelling is part of the store, -the shop, the barn or the windmill, so that the women-folks can do -their part of the labor and not lose much time going back and forth. -Whenever the women are not attending to the farm or the shop they are -scrubbing. The smell of good strong soap is one of the real Dutch -landmarks as much as a windmill or a canal. - -[Illustration] - -From Amsterdam we went to Edam and Monnikendam and Volendam and -Zaandam, and from here we go to Rotterdam and through several other -dams. The affix “dam” means bridge or embankment, and in a country of -canals it is not surprising that nearly all the names of towns end -with dam, Amsterdam being on the bank of the Amsel river, and so on. -When I was a boy I heard the story of the teacher who was having her -class give sentences containing the words they were learning to spell. -One day they came to the word “cofferdam,” and the teacher asked the -bright boy of the class to frame a sentence illustrating the use of the -word. He wrote on the blackboard: “Our old cow thought some sawdust was -bran, and if she don’t look out she will cofferdam head off.” The word -“dam” is not a cuss-word in Dutch. If it were, all the dam towns would -be printed with a dash for the last syllable. - -[Illustration] - -The history of Holland has about as much trouble in it as that of any -country. It was not much of a nation during the dark and medieval -ages, as there was no such state, but a number of petty vassal lords -and bishops. About 1500 a Holland count got the title of Prince of -Orange by marrying a French heiress. The principal ruler in Holland was -the count of Burgundy, but the Dutch cities developed along business -lines and were to a certain extent independent of kings and emperors, -although nominally a part of the German empire. In the sixteenth -century Philip of Spain inherited the sovereignty of the country, and -by his bigoted and cruel rule started a civil war in 1568 which lasted -eighty years and ended in the independence of Holland. During that war -the Dutch had to have a leader, and so they elected William, prince of -Orange, as stadtholder, or governor. Under his management the war was -fought successfully, and when he was assassinated his son was elected -stadtholder. The Dutch were divided into two parties, the Democratic -and Aristocratic, and when Spain was defeated there was trouble -between them. The so-called Dutch Republic was only an aristocracy, -the privilege of participating in the government being restricted to a -privileged class of small nobles and wealthy families. The office of -stadtholder was elective, but generally went to the Oranges. Holland by -its wise statesmanship and a strong navy was a world-power for a while, -and in alliance with England and Sweden generally defeated the French -and Spanish, and when there was war with England the Dutchmen held -their own. Finally William III. of Orange became king of England, and -the Dutch Republic lost its prestige. In the eighteenth century it was -a tail to the English kite, and in 1806 Napoleon made his brother king -of Holland and five years later annexed the country to France. After -Napoleon’s defeat the European powers created the kingdom of Holland, -joined Belgium to it, and made William of Orange king of the united -country. The Belgians broke away in 1830, and since that time Holland -has been a monarchy, although the power is with the people. - -[Illustration] - -I was much struck with the apparent lack of loyalty to the queen. -In England everybody is loyal to King Edward because he not only -represents the sovereignty of the nation, but he stands for the English -constitution, rights of parliament and the people, and the king is the -result of centuries of English thought and political action. But the -Dutch have been without a king most of their history and they don’t -feel the reverence for the crown that the English do. Wilhelmina is -not very popular, and her husband, who is a second-rate German prince -that never mixes with the people and is said to be mean to his wife, is -not liked at all. The Dutch cities have practical self-government, and -it would not be surprising if after the death of Wilhelmina or in the -event of some political upheaval the Dutch Republic would be revived on -a broader basis than before. - - * * * * * - - ROTTERDAM, HOLLAND, Aug. 3, 1905. - -To-day we came to Delft, where the Delft china does not come from -any more, and from there to Rotterdam in a canal-boat. Riding in a -canal-boat is a very pleasant way of traveling. If you want to get -off, the boat simply runs up close to the bank and you make it with a -jump—one jump is better than two. You glide along through the pastures -and back yards and see the women scrubbing, the men smoking and the -dogs pulling the carts. When you come to a low bridge everybody lies -down flat until the boat is beyond it. Our canal-boat was propelled by -steam, and we went flying along at the rate of five or six miles an -hour, but still with plenty of time to inspect the country and visit -with the people on the other boats if we could only have talked their -language. As a cure for nervousness or as an antidote for being in a -hurry I recommend a trip on a canal-boat. - -Delft is a quaint old town, with old churches and clean canals. Two -hundred years ago the manufacture of porcelain made the town famous, -but for a hundred years the business was suspended and now most of the -Delft china is made in New Jersey. Recently a factory has been started -and real Delft ware can be obtained, but the American kind is just as -good. - -The canal-boat brought us through the town of Schiedam, where the -celebrated Dutch “schnapps” is made. They tell me schnapps is closely -related to that brand of American whisky which will make a man climb a -tree. There are 200 distilleries in Schiedam. The Dutch are given to -strong drinks rather than beer. The result is that the Dutch get wildly -and meanly drunk, whereas the Germans merely get fat. - -Near Rotterdam we canalled by Delfthaven. This is the place from which -the Pilgrims sailed for North America in 1620. They stopped en route -in England, but their original start was from here. They had come to -Holland from England in order to secure freedom of worship, but they -were still Englishmen and did not want to become Dutch. So they secured -a promise that they would not be disturbed in the New World, and left -their Holland home. If they had stayed in Delfthaven there would have -been no New England, no Bunker Hill, no United States. But they did not -stay. THE KINGDOM OF BELGIUM. - - - BRUSSELS, BELGIUM, Aug. 5, 1905. - -I do not suppose other people are as ignorant as I was, but I will -admit that in my mind I have always lumped off Holland and Belgium -together as two countries with the same kind of people, the same -language, the same habits and generally the same government. This -is a great mistake. Holland and Belgium are about as unlike as the -United States and Mexico. Holland is Dutch, with a language related -to the German and English, and with Teutonic characteristics. Belgium -is allied to France, the people speaking French or a kind of French, -and with traits of character like the Parisians. Holland and Belgium -have never agreed well politically and have never lived together -harmoniously. When the allies had defeated Napoleon they created the -kingdom of Holland and Belgium and tried to tie the two together. -The combination lasted just fifteen years, and in 1830 the Belgians -revolted, declared their independence and fought successfully to make -it good. This year they are celebrating the seventy-fifth anniversary -of Belgian independence. Two hundred years ago the king of Spain -was sovereign over both countries. Holland threw off the yoke and -did business on its own account, while Belgium failed and remained -the property of Spain or Austria down to the time of Napoleon. -The Hollanders drink “schnapps” and the Belgians drink wine. The -Hollanders are Protestant in religion and the Belgians are Catholics. -Except for the fact that they are side by side along the North sea and -are flat and low, the two countries differ in about everything possible. - -[Illustration] - -The largest city in Belgium is Antwerp, located on the Scheldt river a -little way from the sea, and with one of the largest and best harbors -of Europe. During the Middle Ages Antwerp was a great commercial -city, monopolizing much of the trade with the Orient, and being known -everywhere for its wealth and business. In the eighteenth century, -under Spanish and Austrian rule, the city lost its standing and went -down to about 40,000 population. During the nineteenth century it had -a boom; now there are 355,000 inhabitants and Antwerp looks like a -great American city,—with many wide avenues, beautiful buildings, and -handsome stores. Aside from the fact that the streets are often narrow, -a modern city in Europe looks better than one of the same size and -standing in America. The Europeans have better ideas of architecture, -put up their buildings more substantially and with more regard to their -appearance, and have less of the cheap and shoddy construction than -we do. I suppose we have as good architects in America as in Belgium, -but I know of no city in our country where the business blocks are -so elegant or so well built. Our folks build in a hurry. Over here -they build for centuries, because they have already had centuries and -know that is the way to do. I haven’t seen a frame house except in -Switzerland. When people build with stone they are apt to put the work -there to stay. And these modern European cities, by which I mean cities -which have kept pace with the world’s growth and are not simply living -on history and tourists, have many large squares with monuments and -fountains, parks with gardens and boulevards with drives,—all over the -city, not simply where the rich folks live as in some American cities. -I reckon I am as conceited about my country as anybody, but I get it -taken out of me every now and then, and modern city-building is one of -the places. It would pay our town-builders to take a little more time -and do better, more substantial and more tasteful work. - -[Illustration] - -Brussels is the capital of Belgium. If all the suburbs were taken in as -in Chicago and New York, it would have a half-million people. It has -the reputation of being one of the handsomest cities of Europe, and is -called “the second Paris.” It has many wide avenues, beautiful shops, -and the people, like those of Paris, are great on having a good time. -Nearly every other store in Brussels is a lace store, and most of the -rest are jewelry stores. There are said to be 150,000 women in Brussels -and vicinity making lace for sale, and they are paid by the shops -for which they work about 20 cents a day. The country round about is -fertile, but the farming is more what we would call market gardening. -The picturesque costumes have disappeared, and the Belgians dress and -act more like French and Americans than any other European people I -have seen. Their farm labor is still crude. There is no machinery, and -there need be none so long as labor is cheap. The dogs pull the carts -to town with the truck for market and the working-people live on fish -and vegetables because they are used to it and because meat is away -beyond their means. - -[Illustration] - -To-day I went to the battlefield of Waterloo. It has always been a -matter of regret to me that Napoleon did not win that fight. The big -powers of Europe had combined and forced his abdication. They sent -Napoleon to Elba and were quarreling over a division of the spoils when -he escaped and returned to France. The people received him with joy -and his old soldiers rallied to his standards. The allies ran hither -and thither and were scared almost to death—all but the English, who -never know when to quit. Wellington with about 70,000 soldiers was near -Brussels and Napoleon rushed his army of the same size to meet him. If -Napoleon had defeated Wellington the backbone of the alliance against -him would have been broken and the map of Europe would have been very -different from what it is. The battlefield is comparatively small. -The two armies had a front of about two miles and were less than a -mile apart. In those days a cannon could not shoot a mile and a musket -not more than 150 yards. After the first firing the guns had to be -reloaded, so as a matter of fact there would be a few volleys and then -the opposing armies would clinch and go at it with bayonets, clubbed -muskets, and swords. That was the way at Waterloo. Napoleon made the -attack and Wellington’s army had the help of stone walls and position. -In a space of about forty acres around one farmhouse there were 6,000 -killed and wounded. Both sides fought like the devil, or rather like -devils, and took few prisoners. The English allies held their ground -all day, beating back the frequent and ferocious French charges. In -the evening the Prussian army under Blucher came slowly up at one side -and the outnumbered Frenchmen had to retreat. It was all over with -Napoleon, for his army was dead or missing; so he again gave up, and -this time his enemies were careful to put him at St. Helena where he -could not get away. - -[Illustration] - -A great monument was erected on the battlefield by the victorious -nations. It is a mound of earth 150 feet high, pyramid-shaped, and -a half-mile around the base. On top of the mound is a figure of a -colossal lion. The mound is the highest point for many miles, and from -its top the entire battlefield is easily seen. It is a very impressive -sight. When the great mound was constructed the earth was carried in -baskets by women who were paid 8 cents a day. That kind of a price -for labor makes a steam shovel sick. The people who live around the -battlefield have a rich tourist crop. Although they are Belgians I -think some of them are descendants of Napoleon’s soldiers, judging -from the way they charge. Just about the time the visitor gets excited -or interested in the historic spots, he is reminded that there is -“something for the guide,” or that he can buy maps, picture cards, -bullets, buttons from Napoleon’s coat, or get a drink of water from -the well in which the bodies of 150 French soldiers were thrown. - -[Illustration] - -Belgium is one of the busiest countries in Europe, but labor is really -not better paid than elsewhere. A laboring man gets 30 cents a day, -skilled laborers up to a dollar. A woman works at lace-making for 20 -cents a day, or a woman will come at 7 o’clock in the morning and work -until 8 o’clock in the evening, a Belgian working-day, for 20 cents. -The cost of good, decent living is not much if any less than in Kansas, -but of course people who earn only 20 or 30 cents a day don’t live -well. Their home is with the cow or the dog or with people just as -poor, and a beefsteak would probably give them the gout. I have seen -similar conditions in the slums of American cities, and once, when the -tariff bars were thrown down and our factories put to competition with -Belgian and other European factories where labor is paid as I have -stated, there was a temporary paralysis of labor attended by suffering -and want. But these are the normal conditions in Belgium and in Europe -at a time which is considered one of general prosperity. I wonder how -it must be with hard times. The “bugaboo” of “competition with pauper -labor” is not a political imagination, but would be a sad reality if -the American people should vote for a change in the tariff policy. I -have learned this lesson from the mouths and faces of the workingmen of -Europe. - -Of course there are American-made goods that come into Europe. They are -all here because the Europeans have nothing near as good. The American -typewriter, the sewing-machine, the Wernicke office supplies and the -American shoe are always advertised boldly and freely. Other American -wares are sold without the American label because of some prejudice, -especially in England. In order to show my patriotism I started lifting -my hat every time I saw the sign or advertisement of American goods. -At first I enjoyed the novelty, but as I learned to look for the marks -I soon had my hat off most of the time. I didn’t mind honoring any -American article, but it grew wearisome to have my hand bobbing up to -my hat whenever I turned around, especially as Carter’s liver pills -and Quaker oats have just covered Europe with their posters and their -catch-lines. When the American does start to do business in Europe -he does it right, and is not afraid to put his name on any place the -police will let him. And it is comforting to a pilgrim in a strange -land to see in big letters on street cars and fences the names that -decorated the old walls and billboards at home. - - - - -EUROPEAN ART AND GRUB. - - - BRUGES, BELGIUM, Aug. 8, 1905. - -In this quaint old town we are spending the last day of our stay on the -continent of Europe. To-morrow we sail from Ostend to Dover, and the -prospect of a return to a land where the English language is spoken is -next to getting home. - -Of all the cities of the Netherlands, Bruges has best held on to the -ancient appearance and ways. The fact may be explained by the figures. -During the boom in Belgium a few centuries ago, Bruges had a population -of 200,000, while now there are only 54,000. There was no necessity -to tear down the old buildings to make room for modern structures or -provide wide boulevards and promenades. Consequently the old buildings -stand, only modified in appearance by the wear and tear of weather -and years. The sole business of the town as near as I could see is -lace-making, and as the women do that there is little left for the men, -except to drive cabs and hold the offices. We walked down a little -narrow street, perhaps twelve feet wide, lined from one end to the -other on this pleasant day with women sitting on stools making lace. -The advent of a few Americans almost caused a riot in the desire to -see and be seen, and the little street seemed to swarm with women and -with children. Working over the pillow these women make lace to be -sold at 15 or 20 cents for their day’s labor. Girls hardly into their -teens and grandmothers up in the 80’s were laboring side by side. One -old lady with whom we had a most delightful visit, although neither -could understand the other’s language, and from whom Mrs. Morgan bought -some of the handiwork, is 86 years old, and yet she cheerfully and -ably manipulates the hand-shuttles that make the lace as if she were -not half that age. There is a special provision of Providence that -nearly always applies. These women of all ages who have to make lace -or starve, work in abominable light and yet have excellent eyesight -and never wear spectacles or glasses. In America, where the lace is -bought and where such work is a delicate, eye-trying task, the women -have trouble with their eyesight and must have artificial help to see -the lace that the Belgian women make. The wind is tempered to the shorn -lamb. - -[Illustration] - -Bruges is also the depository of the earliest specimens of Dutch and -Flemish art, for here nearly 500 years ago lived Jan Van Eyck, and he -and his brother were the pioneers in the style of painting which is -generally known as “Dutch.” They were followed a few years later by -Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, De Crayer, Jordaens, and their crowd, who -went to Italy and learned a good deal, but who were really followers -of the Van Eycks. I have spent some time in the art galleries at -Amsterdam, The Hague, Antwerp and Brussels, and have picked up a -smattering of knowledge of Dutch and Flemish art which I would like -to unload. The “whole shooting-match,” as the Germans would say, -is generally called Dutch, but there is a perceptible difference -between the work in Holland and Belgium, although the artists lived -so close together that they naturally formed one great school. Peter -Paul Rubens, who generally gets first place, was a Belgian, although -he was born out of that country when his parents were politically -exiled. He lived at Antwerp and was brought up in a Jesuit school in a -Catholic country. Rembrandt was a Dutchman, born at Leyden, Holland, -and a politician as well as an artist in a Protestant country. If -one will reflect upon the religious situation in Europe in the early -seventeenth century, he will see that no matter if both used the -same colors and the same rules for drawing, they were bound to treat -different subjects, or have different conceptions of the same subject. -Van Dyck, the third of the celebrated trio, was born in Antwerp, but -went to London, and there did most of his work in portrait-painting, -his specialty, because he was better paid by Englishmen. The Catholic -Rubens and his followers painted for the churches and cathedrals, and -for a Catholic constituency, and usually portrayed religious subjects, -while Rembrandt and his pupils painted for the Dutch burghers, and -their best pictures are of men, grouped in military companies or -trade guilds. Rubens is more ideal and spiritual, Rembrandt more -material and human. Therefore it is that people who like one often -do not appreciate the other. I really like the Dutch art better than -the Italian, although it is a good deal like a boy trying to decide -whether he will have cherry pie or custard pie, and wanting both. The -influence of environment and education is clearly seen in the fat -Madonnas and the pictures of public-houses and drinking-bouts which -are favorite subjects. The Dutch artists also lean to “realism,” and -about nine times in ten a picture of the realist school is unpleasant -and therefore to my mind inartistic. For example, one of Rubens’s -great masterpieces represents the martyrdom of a saint who had his -tongue torn out, and in the picture the executioner is handing the -red, bleeding tongue to a dog. Another picture shows an execution, the -axeman holding up the head, and the body with the stump of a neck the -main feature of the foreground. Some people like this sort of thing, -but I don’t. For a hundred years after Rubens and Rembrandt, the -Netherlands produced no art, at the time the countries themselves were -demoralized and the prey of the larger powers. Recently Dutch art has -revived in the portraying of Dutch landscapes, windmills, canals and -such, and to my mind it is the pleasantest and most effective art now -alive in Europe, away ahead of the Italians, who persist in imitating -the old masters and tackling subjects which have been thoroughly -covered so much that there is hardly a chance for a new impression. - -Every town of any size in Belgium and Holland has a public art gallery, -and the people ought to be artists merely from association. But as a -matter of fact three-fourths of the visitors to the galleries when I -was there were Americans and English. - -Speaking of art reminds me of hotels. Before leaving Europe I want -to pay a tribute to the hotel-keepers of the continent. I must have -been wrongly impressed by what I had read and heard, for I had looked -forward with dread to the queer ways and the strange dishes I was -to go against on the trip. As a matter of fact the hotels in Europe -are better and cheaper than those of America. The management is more -courteous, the service better, and the eating far surpasses the -equivalent in the United States. The “tipping system” is not bad at all -and the effort of the landlord to get at your money is concealed by a -show of cordiality and hospitality which I have never experienced in -a strange hostelry in my own country. I am overcharged and worked ten -times more in Kansas City, Chicago and New York than in Rome, Cologne, -Brussels, or any other European city. - -When a traveler arrives at a continental hotel he is greeted at the -entrance by the hall porter or clerk, and instead of being bulldozed -over a counter by a gentleman with a diamond stud into paying twice the -ordinary price for a room, he is quietly and pleasantly told what rooms -are vacant, what are their rates, and allowed to make a selection. He -does not have to tip a porter or a bell-boy for every little favor. -From the proprietor to the “boots” everyone in the hotel is at your -service and nothing to pay—not then. Of course you expect to do the -right thing when you leave, but for the time this cordial service seems -to be spontaneous and animated with a sincere desire for your comfort. -In Germany the proprietor of the hotel keeps up the pretense that you -are his guest, and every day he inquires after your welfare. In the -German restaurants the proprietor walks around and speaks pleasantly -to everyone and you feel that he is really glad to see you without -associating that sensation with the payment of the bill. Everything -and everybody in the hotel is at your service. There is always a -reading-room with newspapers, often American papers, smoking-rooms, -lounging-rooms, and comfortable parlors where it is a pleasure to spend -the time. In nearly every hotel there is a free library, mostly books -of the country, but always some in English. At the Parker House in -Boston, my last stopping-place in America, I had been surprised and -delighted to find a well-selected library for the use of the guests of -the hotel. I supposed that was a Boston innovation and was prepared -to brag about it, but I have found a similar library in nearly every -hotel at which I have stayed in Europe. An American hotel does not give -half the space to the general use and comfort of guests that a European -hotel does, and what it does offer is usually only a big office and -stiff parlors in which people stay only when they can find nowhere else -to go. - -European cooking is far ahead of American cooking. A cook in this -country is not an accident, not a man or woman who is cooking until a -better job offers. A cook is something between a professional man and -a skilled mechanic, and young men learn the business as thoroughly as -they do engineering or banking. Labor is cheap, so that in the kitchen -as well as in the front rooms there is always plenty of service, and -it is by people who are brought up to it and not by boys or men who -are down on their luck. I expected to be “fussy” over the cooking and -cookery, but I have hardly had a poor meal in Europe and not a bad one -at all. There is not much difference in the stuff used or in the way of -serving, but the work is better done, and all the good American dishes -like beefsteak and eggs are found in Europe looking as natural as life. -The Europeans do more with mutton, veal and fish and less with beef -than our cooks, and the small farms raise vegetables that are delicious. - -When one leaves the hotel the proprietor or manager always comes to -see him off and say good-by. There isn’t such a crowd of servants -waiting for tips as is generally alleged. Your porter, who has polished -your shoes and carried your baggage, is on hand, and the chambermaid -casually meets you on the stairs. The head waiter expects a tip and -so does the hall porter, and there are usually a couple of other -attendants ready to receive, but not obnoxiously so. I learned that -the best way to do was to be as polite as the Europeans. A few minutes -before time to leave I would say good-by to the head waiter, the -smoking-room attendant, and any other who had rendered special service, -giving each a small tip which he always took with many expressions of -good-will and appreciation. That prevented any assemblage at the door -when we left, and the last good-bys and tips were only expected by -the man who brought the baggage and the hall porter who put us in the -carriage and gave me full information as regards the coming journey and -the next stop. - -The rates at European hotels are much less than in ours. The prices -for rooms are about half what they would be in America for similar -accommodations in the same-sized places. The restaurant prices are a -little less than ours. I should say that in Europe you pay about $2 to -$3 a day for what would cost $3 to $4 in America. In small hotels and -boarding-houses the same ratio is maintained, and there is no doubt -in my mind that “room and board” on a European trip for an American -is little more than half what it would be for a European in America. -In these prices I include tips. The ordinary American will greatly -enjoy life on the continent, provided, of course, he does not always -eat at the “table d’hôte,” or regular meal-table, which is monotonous -everywhere. And also he must not want a room with a bath, or an -elevator. Very few buildings in Europe have elevators, and the natives -do not use them. It is an inconvenience to walk up two or three flights -of stairs to your room, but in the hotels that do not have “lifts” -you must remember that is the way the nobility and everybody does in -Europe, and quit kicking. You can get a bath in the bathroom or you -can scrub yourself with the contents of the washbowl, after you have -had some experience. That is the custom of the country, and the thing -to do is not to be telling about the rooms with baths in America, but -accept the situation, look pleasant, and you will get along all right. -It is the same way in Europe that it is everywhere else in this vale -of tears: if you look for trouble you easily find it, and if you are -constantly talking and thinking of the conveniences which American -customs have provided and which are not used in Europe, you can make -yourself miserable and unpopular. But if you accept the ways of the -country, enjoy the novelties even if they seem old-fashioned and -strange, you will have a grand old time and will make yourself solid -with the people. - -[Illustration] - -In Europe the name “United States” is rarely used. We are “Americans.” -The people of Canada are Canadians and the people of the United -States have the sole use of the title of Americans. They consider us -the whole thing, and we always admit it without argument. There is -a general impression in the Old World that all Americans are rich. -There is a general impression that sometime we will fight the rest -of the world, and I think there is an impression that we will lick. -So far as I can see, Americans are treated about as well as dukes, -and the ways of traveling are greased for them by everybody along the -line. (Grease to be paid for, of course.) In two months’ travel on the -continent, usually not knowing the language, we have never missed a -train or connection, been mistreated or imposed upon, allowed to suffer -inconvenience or annoyance. That is a record it would be hard to equal -in America. - - - - -ENGLAND. - - - - -IN OLD, OLD ENGLAND. - - - WARWICK, ENGLAND, June 12, 1905. - -When the American tourist reaches old England he has a large and -well-selected stock of emotions which he can feel, in addition to -the thanks in his heart that the short but “nahsty” trip across the -Irish sea is at an end. No matter where an individual’s ancestors may -have come from, the mother country of America is England. Up to 1776 -our history was only English history, our customs English customs, -our laws English laws, and when the Continental army began shooting -at the British soldiers, the Continental Congress accompanied every -volley with a resolution declaring that the colonists had no desire -to separate from England, but were only fighting in self-defense. -Our laws, our language, our literature are English. The fight of the -parliament against the crown has reached practically the same result in -England that the revolution of Congress against King George did by a -short cut. - -This is the land of Shakespeare, Milton and Dickens, who are just -as much American as English, except for the accident of birthplace. -This is the home of our heroes of medieval times, of Ivanhoe, Richard -the Lion-hearted, and the Black Prince. This is the country which is -familiar to us by name and history through Scott and Thackeray, Dickens -and Lytton, and a hundred other authors whose works are read in the -American homes. We are not strangers to such names as Kenilworth, -York, Shrewsbury, Chester, Stratford, Oxford, Cambridge, and in fact -nearly every town on the map of England. This is more like the visit to -a long-absent friend and not an entrance into a foreign land. We are -now going among places of which we have read and among the monuments -and works of men whom we have held close to our hearts through the -pictures painted for us by our authors. We are going to actually see -the things we have so often read about and which we have so much -dreamed about. - -[Illustration] - -Instead of beginning at London, the great center of trade, we are going -to begin here at Warwick, the center of the oldest Old England left on -earth. In Warwick we are five miles from Kenilworth, the castle Scott -made famous, seven miles from Stratford-on-Avon, where Shakespeare was -born, and surrounded by beautiful rural England, with a fine old castle -only five minutes walk away, and churches and buildings which were old -when Columbus discovered America. - -The first stop in England was at Chester, which was a town of -importance when Julius Cæsar was doing business. The walls the Romans -built were demolished by the Saxons but rebuilt, and Chester was the -last place in England to surrender to William the Conqueror. During the -Middle Ages it was the scene of more fights and sieges and the walls -then completed are the same walls which we walked on this week. The -walls are from ten to twenty feet wide at the top, twenty to thirty -feet high, and little towers occupy the angles and corners. From the -wall of Chester Charles the First saw the parliamentary army defeat -his soldiers, and when Chester surrendered, Cromwell’s men had all of -England. - -There are two main streets in Chester, crossing each other at the -center of the town and terminating in the four city gates. All the -other streets of the old town are alleys from six to ten feet wide. But -the curious part of Chester is “the Rows.” Along a good part of the -main streets there is a second floor, or rather a stone roof over the -sidewalks. On this upstairs street are stores and shops, and business -is going on as briskly along the second story as on the ground floor. -As there were originally but the two streets in Chester, the people -simply doubled the street capacity,—a thousand years ago and they -haven’t changed. In fact, I suppose a great many people in Chester who -have never been out of the neighborhood, think that is the proper and -usual way of arranging business streets in all towns. - -[Illustration] - -The greatest place in England is Stratford-on-Avon, because Shakespeare -was born there. A great many English towns have ancient cathedrals and -are the birthplaces or the deathplaces of kings and queens, dukes and -ministers, but Stratford is the only place where Shakespeare was born -and there has been but one Shakespeare. Many great men have several -birthplaces, or perhaps I should say, several towns claim to be the -only birthplace. But Stratford-on-Avon is a thousand years old or -more, and has never done anything for the world except to provide -William Shakespeare, and the world says that is enough to last another -thousand. I stood in the church and saw the slab which covers the -dust of the great poet and man-knower. By his side are the graves of -his wife and daughter. Around the chancel are the inscriptions and -memorials which tell of the admiration and affection of the world. - -[Illustration] - -The house where the poet was born is now owned by a public association, -and great pains have been taken to gather all the relics of his -lifetime that have been spared. The rooms are arranged just as they -were when his father, a highly respected tradesman who reached the -dignity of a justice of the peace, was running his little shop and -William was poaching in the neighboring fields and streams and sparking -Anne Hathaway, whose home was a mile away. The Hathaway cottage is -kept in the same way as the Shakespeare house, and we wandered through -the low rooms and up the narrow stairs just as they were nearly four -centuries ago. In talking with an Englishman at Warwick he said he -believed the Americans thought more of Shakespeare than the English -did, for more of them went to Stratford. Of course that is hardly -correct, for the English all love Shakespeare, but they probably do -not visit his birthplace so much as American travelers do. Practically -every American goes to Stratford, some of them perhaps just because -the others do. Coming over on the ship I was being enlightened by an -aggressive American on just what was what. “Going to Stratford?” he -said. I assented. “Yes, you’ll go there and look around and wonder -what in hell you went there for.” But that is not the sentiment which -fills the hearts of most of the cousins from across the ocean, as is -evidenced by the reverential awe and the thorough appreciation of every -nook and corner shown by them when they are in the historic village. - -The river Avon is about the size of Cow creek, and looks a good deal -like it. The banks are low and the meadows and fields come right to -them, without the timber that borders most American streams. The town -of Stratford is old-fashioned and quaint. Just as in Warwick, the -hotels or inns bear such names as “The Red Dog,” “The Bull and Cow,” -“The Golden Lion,” a style of nomenclature which I had always half-way -thought was imaginary with the great authors who have made such names -familiar. Large, stately trees line the roads and stone walls and -hedges conceal the fields and farms, revealing just enough to enhance -the beauty of the landscape. One can dreamily think as he rides in the -coach from Stratford to Warwick that he is back in the days of Queen -Elizabeth and half expect ye knights and ladies to appear before the -gate of Kenilworth, but as he does so there is a sudden whir-r-r, a -cloud of dust and a smell, and the automobile of the twentieth century -has rudely broken the dream. - -[Illustration] - -We visited the castle of the earl of Warwick. The earl evidently did -not know we were coming, for he was away, but a shilling admitted us -through the big gate in the massive stone walls which surround the -castle and inclose probably twenty acres of ground. It was originally -built by a daughter of Alfred, about 915, and has been more or less -knocked down and built up since. It is said to be one of the finest -old castles in England. A regiment of soldiers could easily parade -in the large court within the walls and be quartered in the building -and towers. Many a time such a garrison has occupied the place, -for the earls of Warwick have been fighters from the beginning and -Shakespeare’s Warwick was a regular Cy Leland or a Stubbs in his day, -and was known as the king-maker. The castle is about twice as large -as the Hutchinson Reformatory, and the earl has to keep a good deal -of hired help in these times of peace. Many of the great rooms are -kept just as in the old days of chivalry and are filled with armor and -weapons. The banquet-room is maintained as it was in the great earl’s -time, and much of the castle is really a museum and gallery full of the -pictures, portraits, furniture and tapestries of the long ago. - -Kings and queens, earls and earlesses, have walked the halls and had -their brief time upon the stage of life. The noble of to-day does not -have the armor or the power he did then. His band of armed retainers -has changed to a crowd of peaceful laborers. He does not lead his men -to war, but presides at country fairs and acts as dignified as the -spirit of the twentieth century will permit. He no longer fears a -midnight assault from a neighboring baron, but only dreads the ravages -of the American tourists and sensibly compromises by letting them -ravage at a quarter apiece. The times of chivalry are gone. - - “Their swords are rust; - The knights are dust; - Their souls are with the saints, we trust.” - -Here in Warwick and at Kenilworth we take a long dream backward, and -by working our imagination and our sentiment we see the England of -Shakespeare, of Warwick, of Ivanhoe. It is a good dream, but it is a -past that will never return, a past that is more nearly connected with -the present in Warwick than at any other place. It is old England, -which first learned to rule herself and then began to rule most of -the rest of the world, and with the assistance of the American child -will undoubtedly do the business in the future. We are going to London -and Liverpool, the castles of commerce and industry which now command -the trade of the globe. In the England of to-day the castles of the -business man and the banker rule in the place of the castles of the -baron and the earl, and old England has given place to a new England. -But it will be this old England of Shakespeare, Warwick and Kenilworth -that will live in the hearts of the English people, and will be the -object of pilgrimage for Americans abroad. - - - - -THE GREATEST OF CITIES. - - - LONDON, Aug. 11, 1905. - -We are “out of season” in London. “Everybody is out of town.” I suppose -there are only about 7,000,000 people left within the limits of the -city as laid out for police purposes. With only 7,000,000 people in -this district twenty miles square, one naturally feels lonesome. I -suppose it will strike me that way after I get used to it. But if as -many of the inhabitants of London as there are people in the State of -Kansas should go away, it is probable that I would not notice it at -first. It is curious what funny first impressions one gets of things. -My first of London was that it looked like a great big ant-heap with -the ants excited over something and swarming in every direction. The -long processions or streams of people which wind in and out, up and -down, make the individual feel mightily insignificant. In comparison -my memory of Chicago is that it looks like a deserted country town on -Sunday afternoon, and New York a fairly large and busy village. - -[Illustration] - -The streets of London are laid out with no regard for plan or -regularity. None of them are straight, and in the course of a few -blocks they will be intersected at every angle and possible curve by -other streets, which in turn are cut into by more streets. Every now -and then there is a “square,” or a “circus,” either meaning a place -where different streets meet head-on and usually stop. A “circus” is a -curved square and not a show. A map of London looks like a chicken-yard -in which the hens have been very busy scratching. The stranger loses -all idea of direction. When the sun shines, which is not often, I have -seen it in the north, south, east and west on the same day. - -There are no “sky-scrapers.” The height of buildings is regulated, -and I think the limit is usually six stories. This is a rule which -our American cities ought to have but they won’t. The climate has the -effect of making a new house soon look old, and London is neither -bright nor shining in its appearance. But it is the greatest city -in the world, and that fact is impressed on the traveler in every -direction. There are more Irishmen in London than in Dublin, more -Scotchmen than in Edinburgh, more Jews than in Palestine, and in its -population are large colonies of people from every country on the -earth. Name any article you want or have ever heard of, and it is in -London. No business and no trade in any civilized land but has its -representative in this city. No great work is done and no enterprise -attempted but the fact is known to some one in London. In spite of -the great growth and wealth of America, the industry and success of -Germany, the thrift and saving of France, the financial center of the -world is in London, and other bourses and boards of trade follow the -lead or are in fact only branches of the English concern. Every active -financial institution in the United States or elsewhere has its London -connection through which it draws when it engages in international -business or when it goes out of the local sphere of influence. London -is the whirlpool to which all the world contributes and from which all -the world gets something thrown out. - -[Illustration] - -London is not only the center of business but of literary, artistic -and political activity. Especially is this true for Americans. All of -our history prior to 1776 is English, and in the annals of the world -1776 is only the day before yesterday. Our writers, as soon as they get -their feet on the ground at home, look to London, this clearing-house -of literature as of money. London writers, from the time of Shakespeare -to Dickens, Thackeray and Kipling, are ours just as much as they are -England’s. Not an American but recognizes the names of Piccadilly, -Hyde Park, Westminster, Temple Bar, Ludgate, the Tower, Tooley street, -London Bridge, Charing Cross, Drury Lane, Whitechapel, Billingsgate, -and other streets and places in London as familiarly as he does those -of places in the nearest city to which he lives. A common history -for more than a thousand years, a common literature which cannot be -divided, and a common trend of religious and political thought make -Great Britain and the United States one people although divided by -an ocean and by arbitrary political lines. I think that up to a few -years ago there was much prejudice in each country against the other. -That has now practically disappeared. Englishmen on the continent and -at home have fraternized with us Americans at every opportunity, and -no place in London that I have gone but I have been received with -unmistakable heartfelt kindness. - -[Illustration] - -After getting comfortably settled the question comes to the tourist, -“What first?” And there is so much in London we want to see, that it -was a question. I suppose we answered it as every American would, -Westminster Abbey. There we spent our first afternoon. I had been -afraid of disappointment. I may say I am getting used to finding -things which sounded and seemed big when viewed from Kansas, actually -getting small and ordinary when right before us. But it was not so -with Westminster. The present building was put up by Henry III., in -the thirteenth century to take the place of the structure on the same -spot erected by the Saxons soon after the year 1000. A few towers and -façades were added a century later, but for practically 400 years this -grand church has been the national memorial hall of the English people. -Although tombs and monuments are on every side, the spacious church is -used for service every day, and it is an agreeable memory now that we -joined in the afternoon service that day in the hall where kings are -crowned and where they are buried, and where men greater than kings -have been laid away after their work was done. - -The church is very large, the form of a Latin cross, beautifully -proportioned, rather gloomily lighted, but impressive in appearance. -Of course it was originally Catholic, but being the state church it -went Protestant when Henry VIII. turned against the pope, partly -because the pope would not recognize his divorce machine. There are -not many statues of saints, but up one side and down the other of the -double aisles and the little chapels are monuments, usually statues, of -the men whose names are England’s greatness. I do not mean the kings -and queens, for most of them would not by their own merit deserve -the honor, but such as these: The Pitts, father and son, who ruled -in England a hundred years ago; Fox, Peel, Cobden, statesmen of the -world; Beaconsfield and Gladstone, not far apart now; Wilberforce, -the philanthropist; Darwin, Newton and Herschel, the scientists; -Livingstone, the African explorer, and Gordon, the general; André, who -was shot as a spy in America; John and Charles Wesley, the Methodists; -Watts, the hymn-writer; Händel, the composer, and Jenny Lind, the -sweet singer of a generation ago; Addison, Macaulay, Thackeray, and -Dickens; Chaucer, Ben Jonson, and Tennyson, poets laureate; Booth and -Garrick, the actors; Spenser and Dryden, and many other poets;—a great -aristocracy of learning, and now in the democratic, barrier-razing -grave. Then there are nearly all the great English generals of -the last four centuries, with heroes whose names are familiar to -American school-boys as to English. And in the chapels are the tombs -of England’s rulers from Edward the Confessor, some great kings and -some little kings, some good and some bad, surrounded by the graves -of queens and lords and ladies with the familiar names of English -nobility. Near the tomb of the great Queen Elizabeth is that of her -rival whom she executed, Mary Queen of Scots, the remains of the -latter placed there by her son, King James, who by the irony of fate -succeeded his mother’s enemy. I could go on with the list, but it would -be with the reader as with the visitor, only the general effect, with -here and there some great name singled out from the rest because of -special interest or connection with some great event. And a fact which -impressed me was that many men and women were executed by one monarch -and their remains brought to Westminster and monuments erected to them -by the next. - -In Westminster Abbey the kings and queens of England have been crowned -since the time of its building. A sovereign may inherit or receive -from the representatives of the people the royal power, but he is not -fully authorized and empowered to perform the duties of the job, or, to -paraphrase a slang expression, his crown is not on straight until he -receives it here. There are times when the great church is brilliant -with light and resonant with music, when gay uniforms and gowns fill -the galleries and aisles, when bells peal merrily and the banners wave -from choir and column, concealing for the day the monuments and tombs -of the past with their lesson of the end to earthly greatness and the -fate of human pomp and grandeur. - -[Illustration] - -The way to see London is from the top of an omnibus. There are -no electric or cable lines or any other above-ground means of -transportation in London except cabs and ’buses. The underground -railroad, called “the tube,” is useful for quick traveling from -one part of the city to the other, but the ’bus is the ordinary -conveyance. It has regular seats on top, and they are always occupied -except when the rain comes in torrents. An ordinary drizzle rain does -not bother a Londoner. The sight of the long line of omnibuses with -people filling the tops of every one of them is in itself a show. I -am told there is not an hour in the day when there are not 100,000 -people on top of the London ’buses. We have found that we can learn -and see more of London sitting next to the driver of a ’bus in an hour -than we could in a day with a carriage and guide. The driver is always -glad to trade you all the news about the street for a sixpence, and a -London ’bus-driver is a man of intelligence and learning; he has to -be in order to drive through the jam of traffic and not get lost in -the crooked streets. It was like reading a story when we rode down the -Strand past St. Paul’s and the Bank of England to the Whitechapel, as -the driver pointed out the house where Peter the Great lived when in -England; William Penn’s old home; Somerset House, where queens have -lived; the theatre in which the great actors of to-day appear, Covent -Garden; Garrick’s house; the rooms which Dickens described as David -Copperfield’s at Miss Trotwood’s; the Temple, England’s great lawyer -factory; the grave of Goldsmith; the inn where Johnson and congenial -sports dined and drank; and all kinds of places mentioned or described -by Dickens and Thackeray, or connected with the history of England. I -am not writing a guidebook, but I can make affidavit that a ride on a -London omnibus is the quickest and easiest way I know to fill one’s -head with a jumble of literature and history, as well as to test the -elastic qualities of the neck. If I were to advise a tourist coming to -Europe I would not only tell him to read in advance and bring plenty of -money, but he should have all the rubber possible between his head and -his body. - - - - -AT KING EDWARD’S HOUSE. - - - LONDON, Aug. 14, 1905. - -We have spent the day at Windsor Castle, the favorite home of Queen -Victoria, and indeed of British monarchs for several centuries. King -Edward and Queen Alexandra were not at home. We had not advised them -in advance of our intention to visit them, and Edward had gone off -to a hot-springs resort to recuperate from the festivities of last -week, when he was entertaining the French navy. The queen is visiting -her folks in Copenhagen, and none of the royal family were at the -depot. However, we went direct to the castle, and, opening it with the -usual key (a shilling), we wandered around in the big and beautiful -rooms, tramped through the stables and saw the horses, and enjoyed the -beautiful view of the valley of the Thames from the terrace on which -Queen Elizabeth used to stand and shoot deer which her gamekeeper -drove in front of her. King Edward and Queen Alexandra have a right -pretty place at Windsor, but it takes a lot of help to keep it up. -There are fifty men employed in the stables alone. The queen is a good -housekeeper, as can be told from the well-polished floors, the shining -brass and the absence of dirt and dust from the walls and furniture. -Windsor Castle is about three times as big as the Reformatory. Part -of it was built over 800 years ago by William the Conqueror, and it -has been added to by nearly every sovereign. It was a favorite place -with Henry VIII., and one of his wives, Anne Boleyn, was confined and -executed in Windsor. At the time, Henry was over in the next county -waiting until Anne was dead so he could marry another, which he did -within forty-eight hours. The kings and queens in those days were often -tough bats and acted scandalous. They couldn’t do it now, at least in -England. A few years ago the people of England were worked up over a -gambling scandal in which the present king, then Prince of Wales, was -implicated. But King Edward has shown himself to be a model monarch, -and he and the queen are both popular. - -A king does not have an easy job. He has to attend state banquets, -preside at the laying of corner-stones, and ride in state on great -occasions, always look pleasant when he is in public, and eternally -be entertaining somebody from somewhere that he does not care about. -This does not sound so bad, but when you read, as you do in the English -papers, just what the king does every day and realize what a grind it -must be after the novelty is worn off, you begin to feel sorry for -Edward. No wonder he has to go to the hot springs for his health. I -don’t suppose that since he has been king he has had a whole week off, -and he is getting old. Kings and queens have to do everything, from -marrying to visiting, because it is best for their countries and not -because they want to. Even an independent American citizen knows how -tiresome it is to do “what is best” rather than what you really like, -and poor Edward never gets a rest. Of course, if the king really had -power there would be some recompense to a man. But the king of England -has little or no power. He is not allowed to have any views on public -questions. When the Conservative party is in power it speaks for the -king and when the Liberal party is in power it voices the sentiment -of the king. This fiction is a part of the British constitution, with -the further inconsistent proposition that the king can do no wrong. -If the people disapprove of the public policy they blame the dominant -ministry, and properly so, for the king has no more to say on political -questions in England than a Republican has in Texas. Edward would no -more dare to take a decided position or make a stand on a government -policy than he would get out in the street with nothing on but his -crown. The people run the government in Great Britain nearly as much -as they do in the United States, and the monarchical customs and the -restrictions and regulations which seem absurd to us would be dumped -out in the next session of parliament if the people wished it. But they -don’t, for they are English and they cling to the old ways. They want -the king and nobles and are willing to pay the bills. - -[Illustration] - -But I am getting away from Windsor. It is the biggest and best castle -I have seen in Europe. There are towers and turrets and moats enough -to remind you that once upon a time a castle was a fort, and there are -gardens and terraces and beautiful pictures which show that the kings -have spent their money, or the people’s money, with good taste. There -are several other royal residences in England, but Windsor is conceded -to be the best. It is in a beautiful country, and yet it is close to -London, so that the king could spend a quiet night and in the morning -hop on the train and in thirty minutes be at his office in the city. -And the king has a train of special cars nearly as handsome as those of -a division superintendent on the Santa Fe. - -Our guide pointed out to us a neighboring estate which belonged to -William Penn, the first owner of Pennsylvania, long before Quay’s time. -Penn got the English sovereign to let him have all of Pennsylvania at a -nominal rent. He then settled with the Indians on a friendly basis, and -the result was his Quaker colony prospered from the start. The contract -was that he and his successors and assigns should pay to the king of -England so many beaver-skins annually. There have been no payments, so -the guide said, since July 4, 1776. - -[Illustration] - -On our way to Windsor we stopped at Stoke Poges, or rather at the -church near there, in the graveyard of which Gray wrote his great -“Elegy.” The little church stands just as it did when Gray was there -about 150 years ago. The yew tree, to which he refers, is a veritable -monarch, and the woman who shows strangers around said it was 900 years -old. In the church are the graves of Gray and his mother, to whom he -owed his intelligence and his opportunity. The ivy-covered tower looks -down over the crumbling gravestones of those— - - “Far from the madding crowd’s ignoble strife, - Their sober wishes never learned to stray; - Along the cool, sequestered vale of life - They kept the noiseless tenor of their way.” - -Gray wrote a great poem. He never wrote another in the same class. -His reputation is based on the Elegy, and that is enough. It made him -famous, and he was offered the position of poet laureate to the king -and declined it. A man who will decline a good job like that is almost -as rare as a great poet. - -We read the poem aloud out in the graveyard underneath the yew tree. -It fitted exactly. Gray had touched the springs of sublimity by seeing -through nature and telling just what he saw, no more. - -[Illustration] - -In a field near Windsor I saw a mowing-machine, the first I have -noticed in Europe. Everywhere else the hay and grass has been cut by -hand. I mentioned this fact to the driver, and he was very bitter over -the introduction of machinery because it kept men out of an opportunity -to work. He told me he was going to America just as soon as he could -“raise the funds.” The women do not work in the field in England, at -least not much. But they are busy in the dairy, at the stores and -behind the bar in the saloons. In every way I found England ahead of -the continent in its ways of doing things, but there is still enough -difference from our ways to make them seem queer. I also have a kick -coming on another matter. A great many English people do not speak the -English language. They think they do, but they not only drop their h’s -when they should be on and put them on where they do not belong, but -they pronounce the vowels and some of the consonants in a manner that -would make a dictionary turn pale. It is often very difficult for me -to understand them, and they are all at sea over my Kansas brogue. Of -course this does not apply to the educated English people, who only -speak differently from us in using a broad and pleasant accent. - -Coming down the street on the way home I saw in a grocery-store window -these signs: “Breakfast eggs, ten for a shilling;” “Recommended eggs, -twelve for a shilling;” “Select eggs, fourteen for a shilling;” -“Cooking-eggs, sixteen for a shilling.” The frankness of the signs -surprised me. I suppose we have the same varieties of eggs in Kansas, -but we don’t describe them so exactly and they all go at the same -price. As eggs are a staple item on the bill of fare, I am wondering -to-night whether my landlord buys “breakfast eggs” or “cooking-eggs,” -or just plain “eggs.” - -[Illustration] - -The English money is the hardest to understand in Europe. It is based -on the shilling, worth about a quarter in our money. Four farthings -make a penny, 12 pennies make a shilling, and 20 shillings make a -pound ($4.80). The usual coins are the ½ penny, pronounced “ha-penny,” -penny, “tuppence,” the 3-penny, pronounced “trippence,” the sixpence, -the shilling, the 10-shilling, the pound, called a sovereign; the -5-shilling piece, called a crown, and the half-crown. You add 8 pence -to 10 pence and it doesn’t make 18, it makes “one and six.” Add one and -six to one and eight and it makes three and two—yes, it does! Figuring -with English money for an American beginner is like turning handsprings. - -The paper currency is issued by the Bank of England, and is made of -white-fiber paper. In some way I got possession of a ten-pound note -and took it into a bank to have it changed. The cashier had me sign my -name on the back. I demurred at first, but as I wanted the change I -finally did it, remarking to him that I was pleased to know that the -bank considered my indorsement necessary to a bank note of the Bank of -England. The cashier did not see the joke, for he took pains to tell me -that it was not to make the note better and that a Bank of England note -was worth its face in gold anywhere. I have had a hard time with my -alleged jokes. I had a letter of introduction to a London banker from -a New York banker, and presented it in order to get the opportunity of -looking through an English bank. Wanting to be pleasant and friendly, -I remarked as he finished reading the letter that I had gotten it so -that if I had trouble with the police I might call on him for help. He -gravely assured me that he did not think I would have any difficulty -with the police. He did not see my little joke. Perhaps he has seen it -by this time, for that was two days ago. - - - - -THE TOWER AND OTHER THINGS. - - - LONDON, ENGLAND, Aug. 17, 1905. - -After Westminster Abbey I went to looking for the Tower of London. -Since I was a boy and read the story of the two little princes who -were said to have been murdered in the Tower by order of their royal -uncle, I had pictured the Tower as something awful and gloomy. As a -matter of fact the Tower is rather imposing in appearance, and with the -improvements that have been made in recent years is a fairly decent -sort of castle right in the city of London. Built for a fortress by -William the Conqueror soon after his capture of England from the -Saxons, it was added to and used as a royal residence and state prison, -mostly the latter. Kings and queens have been confined within its walls -and nobles have been imprisoned by the hundreds, many of them only -finding it a step toward execution. It is now a government arsenal, and -contains a number of soldiers and a lot of military supplies as well -as a historical museum. The Tower consists of a dozen towers inclosed -by a wall and moat, and covers thirteen acres. It is really very -interesting, and anyone who remembers his English history or who has -read English stories of a few centuries ago can feel delightful thrills -as he goes up and down the dark corridors and stairways, sees the rooms -in which so many of the great men of England, good and bad, spent -the time preliminary to their death, or passed years in confinement. -Kings of England, Scotland and France, princes, archbishops and -ministers of state have carved or scratched their names on the walls -and window-frames while sojourning here at the expense of the state. -As a usual thing the executions were held outside the walls so that -the public could enjoy the amusement, but a few of the noble ladies -and some men who were very popular with the people were decapitated in -the little square in the middle of the inclosure, and the spot is now -marked by an iron tablet. The Tower has not been used as a prison since -1820, and since then it has been cleaned and renovated so that the only -evidence of the dark old days is contained in the placards which the -government has put up for the benefit of the public. Henry VIII., who -was a bad husband but an able monarch, had a fad for the collection -of old armor, and a great part of the White Tower, the largest of -the towers in the Tower, is taken up by a splendid exhibition of the -fighting-clothes and weapons of England and Europe during the Middle -Ages. In another tower, Wakefield Tower, is kept a part of the royal -regalia, including the crown worn by the king when he is formally -inducted into office at Westminster Abbey. This crown contains 2,818 -diamonds, 300 pearls and other precious stones “too numerous to -mention.” The government charges a sixpence to get into this exhibit, -which is said by the official guidebook to be worth $15,000,000. You -pay another sixpence to see the rest of the buildings, including the -old armor, the place where the bones of the little princes are said -to have been found, the tower where the Duke of Clarence was drowned -in a large cask of wine, and all the other beautiful horrors that go -with the Tower. I never fail to appreciate the thrift of these European -governments. They always charge admissions to the castles, palaces -and public buildings. What a howl there would be in America if the -Government should exact a fee of 10 cents to visit the White House, or -the State of Kansas should charge admission to the Governor’s residence -at Topeka. - -When we went into the Tower the officers at the gate made everybody -leave packages or boxes outside. Mrs. Morgan even had to dispose of her -chatelaine bag, and when she wanted to know the reason why, learned -that it was to prevent her carrying dynamite into the Tower and blowing -it to pieces. The powers of the Old World are always looking for -dynamiters. - -[Illustration] - -During our stay in London the French fleet has been visiting the -British fleet at Portsmouth, and a large number of the officers and men -have been brought to London and entertained. International politics is -a subject of general interest in Europe. Emperor William of Germany has -most of the rest of Europe so nervous that even the English and French, -foes for centuries, are making up to each other. Just as in Germany I -found a feeling that eventually Germany would have a war with America -and England, I found the same impression here, and as France hates -Germany more than it does England, the French, with the same thing in -mind, would line up with the Anglo-American combine. The London papers -have had numerous articles showing that the combined fleets, armies and -financial powers of the three countries and Japan could lick the rest -of the earth to a standstill. The most ordinary Englishman is posted -on international matters as well as the ordinary American is on local -State affairs. To illustrate the public feeling, at a theatre when the -ballet-girls were carrying banners of the various nations the climax -came with the English representatives and the French representatives -clasping hands and the American dancers waving the stars and stripes -over them. The audience cheered enthusiastically. - -[Illustration] - -Speaking of theatres reminds me that London has the best in the world. -The English people are great play-goers, and the city has such a large -population that a play often runs here for a year. Prices are higher -for the best seats and cheaper for the cheap seats than in America. A -parquet seat is called a “stall,” and is usually $2.50. The “pit” is -back of the parquet, and is about 50 cents. First balcony is called -the dress circle, and is about $2. Second gallery is about 25 or 50 -cents. I think the class distinctions account for the great difference -in prices. An imposition in London theatres is that a charge of 12 -cents is made for a program, filled with advertising, and no better -than those given free in America. When the orchestra plays “God Save -the King” the audience rises. Americans get up, too, and as the tune is -the same as “America” the Yankees I know sing “Sweet Land of Liberty” -while the English are saving the king. - -[Illustration] - -I saw the procession of the local officials when the Frenchmen were -here. The sheriff of the county rode in a beautiful old-style yellow -coach, wore a three-cornered hat and a uniform of 200 years ago, with -powdered wig and sword. The lord mayor of London was dressed the same -way, with his hair down his back in a queue. If the sheriff of Reno -county and the mayor of Hutchinson had any style about them they would -not let these English officials outshine them. I am told it costs the -mayor about a half-million a year to hold the office, as his principal -duty is to entertain the city’s guests at his own expense. The lord -mayor is more ornamental than useful. The local government is more like -our State organization, with one legislative body, consisting of 118 -county councillors elected by the boroughs, and another of nineteen -aldermen appointed by the council. As London has about five times as -many people as Kansas and much harder problems of administration to be -solved, the government is a big thing. And London is well governed, -better, I think, than American cities. The only thing that would grate -on us is the great amount of regulation. You can’t build a house or go -into business without permission, and then everything must be just so. -The English people are law-abiding, more patient with regulations and -rules than ours, and public opinion stands for the strict enforcement -not only of laws but of what seem like absurd red-tape rules. Hardly -any stores are open or business commenced until 9 o’clock. Nearly -everybody takes one to two hours for lunch. Stores close at 6 o’clock -and dinner is in the evening. Saturday afternoons all business houses -are shut up, and there are a great number of holidays. An American gets -nervous over the easy-going way of doing business. He is always in -trouble because he has forgotten it is Saturday afternoon or a “bank -holiday,” or because he can’t transact important business between 12 -and 2 o’clock. In fact, if he wants to, an American can find a lot -of things in London to make him miserable and cause him to abuse the -country. But if he is patient and learns a little of the English ways -he finds that he may live a little slower but he will live just as -happily, and probably longer if he does as the English do. The American -way of rushing things is well known and generally discountenanced in -England. They think we are fools for working so hard, and resent the -rather offensive criticisms by the Yankees of their slowness. Perhaps -they are right. They tell me that on his first visit an American always -tries to reform English business methods. After that first attempt he -tackles the easier job of sweeping back the ocean with a broom. - - - - -IN RURAL ENGLAND. - - - LONDON, ENGLAND, August 21, 1905. - -We have just finished a trip of a couple of hundred miles through -southern England in a motor car. In France and the United States it is -an automobile, but in Great Britain it is a motor car. This is a better -way to see the country than from a railroad train, and not so good as -walking. If you have a motor car or have a friend who has one, that is -the best way to travel. If you have none and no prospect, a motor car -is a delusion and a mistake. I happened to have a friend with a motor -car and am therefore on the side of the motorists. - -We left London at 10 o’clock in the morning, and by night had ridden a -hundred miles and taken in Hampton Court, Windsor, Reading, Maidenhead, -Alton, and Winchester, besides a lot of little places and the country -along the way. The English roads are just about perfection. The main -roads are made of stone or gravel with clay on top, rolled until they -are as smooth as asphalt, and kept free from holes and bumps. Every -bridge and culvert is of stone. There is no need to slow up except for -people and other vehicles. I doubt if America ever has such roads. -Perhaps in a thousand years, when our country is about as old as -England, we will have equally as good thoroughfares, but it will be -fully a thousand years. These English roads were good stone roads -before the days of railways. They were constructed as business and -military necessities by the order of the English government. I don’t -think Kansas farmers will ever build graveled roads on which motorists -can make high speed and kill the chickens and dogs that don’t get -out of the way when the horn blows. However, Kansas farmers could, -profitably to themselves, improve their roads so that one horse could -haul a wagon-load in place of two horses, and so that the wagon could -be hauled in muddy times. Such roads would be good enough for Kansas -automobiles, and by that time they will be cheap and every farmer will -have one. The Romans who conquered and held possession of England -from the time of Julius Cæsar to several centuries later, were great -road-builders, and fragments of their old military roads still exist. -Good roads are a sign of civilization. Fortunately, they are not the -only sign, for if they were, parts of Kansas would be uncivilized. We -can beat the Old World on a good many propositions, but when it comes -to roads and highways the old country has us skinned a good many blocks. - -[Illustration] - -This is August, but the woods and meadows of England are as green and -fresh as with us in May. An English summer as I see it is warm and -moist. It is not near so warm as in the Mississippi valley, and the -rain comes nearly every day. Rain does not often fall in sheets and -inches, but drizzle-drazzles down and soaks in so as to do the most -good. The English people don’t mind the rain at all. It is this moist -climate which covers the walls with ivy and the trees with moss, and -keeps the verdure fresh and green until the fall. Harvest is just -now being finished. There is no corn in England—although they call -barley, wheat and small grain generally, “corn.” The principal crop -is hay and oats and barley, a little wheat, and vegetables in great -quantities. England has 50,000 square miles, so it is over half as -large as Kansas, but it has 30,000,000 people, and therefore much of -the farming is for market truck. As a matter of fact there is very -little actual “rural life.” The villages are so close together that -it is often hard to tell where one town ends and another begins, and -a country road is as nearly well settled as a city suburb in America. -Here and there are vast estates, the beautiful show places and curse of -England. With millions of people wanting work and thousands of tenant -farmers who can get no title to the soil they till, it looks to me like -a howling outrage for a lord, a duke or a brewer to fence up several -thousand acres as a shooting-place, and remove from production a large -per cent. of the land which ought to be doing good and providing some -Englishman a chance to make a living and a home. The English people do -not seem to mind it at all, and I suppose there is no call for me to -get excited, but I can’t help it. We have gone by some beautiful parks, -with great stately trees, deer grazing in herds and pheasants and quail -flying at the side of the road. These belong to somebody who is off -for the summer and who got them from his father, who received them -from the king, who originally stole them from the actual owners. For -quiet beauty the lanes and meadows of England, lined with fine trees -and fenced with hedge or stone wall, cannot be beaten. The Arkansas -valley is just as beautiful in June, but in August the Kansas sun can -be depended on to do business and spoil the freshness of the trees -and grass. When the wayside is not inclosed between high hedgerows, -the fence is stone, but over the stone grow ivy and moss, out of the -cracks come grass and flowers, so the coldness and bleakness of the -rock is concealed. Every English farm seems to have a flock of sheep. -I always heard the national meat of old England was roast beef, but -that is a mistake. It is mutton-chops, and every English family has -them at least once a day if it has the price. Along the main roads are -little inns every mile or so with the peculiar names and signs that are -characteristic. During the day I counted four called “The Red Lion.” -One was “The Headless Woman,” and over the sign-post was the picture of -a woman with her head chopped off below the chin. These inns are hotels -and public-houses, and generally look interesting and clean. I am told -their prices are reasonable to Englishmen, but they charge Americans in -an automobile about all the law would allow. - -[Illustration] - -To-day we came from Southampton to Brighton, fifty miles along the -southern coast. The beach is fine, and is the summer resort of England. -Years ago royalty and nobility made Brighton their favorite sea-shore -place, but the great plain people have gotten into the habit of -going there in numbers, so the aristocracy has gone farther, to the -continent and to Wales. Nearly every one of these old English towns -has a cathedral and a Roman wall. The Romans were town-builders as -well as road-makers, and they never even camped for the night without -fortifying. The cathedrals were mostly built in the Middle Ages, when -the church was a wealthy business organization with lands and revenues. -They look old and quaint and are generally in good taste. When you read -about a cathedral or castle being a thousand years old you may depend -on it that if it is still in use it has been “restored.” Some of these -very old cathedrals remind me of the boy’s jackknife. The blades wore -out and he got new blades. The handle wore out and he got a new handle. -But he still had the old jackknife. A cathedral built in the year 1000 -may have new walls, new roof, new interior and new spire, but it is -still the old cathedral, “restored.” - -[Illustration] - -In a little old English inn on the bank of the river Thames we ate our -lunch and watched the endless procession of boats that passes up and -down the stream. The ocean reaches up the river as far as London, so -that it is really an inlet, with a tide that rises and falls, and a -deep channel for ships. Ten miles above London the Thames is about the -size of the Little Arkansas, and all the way past Windsor, Henley and -Oxford, historic for the boat-races, it is very little wider than Cow -creek. By a system of dams and locks the Thames above London is really -only a canal. There is a path alongside, and we saw several young men -taking their sisters, or somebody’s sisters, for a boat-ride, the man -walking the bank, pulling the boat with a rope, and the lady sitting in -the boat. In some countries I have been in this summer the woman would -have been pulling on the rope and the man would have been reared back -in the seat, comfortably smoking a long cigar. As a river the Thames -above London is not much, but as a pretty winding stream, carrying -little steamboats and row-boats, filled with gaily dressed people, it -is a success. - -[Illustration] - -The place we stopped for lunch was at Runnymede, just about the -greatest spot on earth for English and Americans. It was here in 1215 -that King John met the rebellious barons and signed the Magna Charta. -Up to that time the king of England had done as he pleased, regardless -of law. King John levied taxes so heavily that the people could not -stand it, and the big nobles suffered worst of all. So the barons -combined, and when the king started out to lick them, his supporters -nearly all went over to the rebels. In order to save his neck and his -kingdom, John met the barons at Runnymede and signed the agreement -which is at the basis of the English and American constitutions. He -agreed not to levy any further unusual taxes except by consent of the -Great Council of the nobles (origin of the English parliament), nor to -deny or sell justice, and confirmed the right of an accused person to a -trial by jury. - -It did not make any difference if King John repudiated the Magna Charta -as soon as he could. The principle was established, and while some -English rulers after that tried to evade and escape its provisions, -the English people held to it as their rock of refuge. England has no -written constitution like ours. The English constitution is a growth of -custom, laws, grants and statutes, and the Magna Charta is the basis on -which it rests. - -When John met the barons at Runnymede the people had no rights that -king or baron was bound to respect. But John put a provision in the -Magna Charta that the barons must treat their tenants as fairly as the -barons wanted to be treated by the king. I suppose John was trying -to get even with his powerful nobles by thus recognizing the common -people, and deserves no credit for the article. But in a few centuries -the development of this idea and the discovery that a musket in the -hands of an ordinary man could shoot a hole through a knight, broadened -the Magna Charta so that it protects every Englishman. - -[Illustration] - -One of the things that strike Americans as odd is the rule of the -road, “turn to the left.” This rule is rigidly observed everywhere in -England. But when your motor car, running at 30 or 40 miles an hour, -meets another coming at a like speed, and your driver turns to the -left, the American on the rear seat shuts his eyes so as not to see -the collision, while a cold chill travels down his backbone. Of course -there is no accident, for the other fellow also turns to the left, but -it is hard on the nerves. However, a Kansas man in Europe takes plenty -of nerve with him and he is all right so long as his money lasts. - - - - -RAILROADS IN EUROPE. - - - LIVERPOOL, Aug. 24, 1905. - -A railroad is a railroad anywhere in the world, only it is sometimes -different. Every country has its own peculiarity in railroads as -well as in everything else. The first European train we saw was at -Queenstown, Ireland, and we laughed. It looked like a toy, small -engine, small coaches and strange in appearance. I decided to wait -until I had more observations on the subject before putting my ideas -into a letter, and since then have gone from one country to another -in Europe, traveling first, second and third class, on main lines and -branch roads, on through trains and accommodation trains, and gaining -all the knowledge possible for an American traveler who gets his -information from experience. While each country has its peculiarities, -there are certain ways in common. - -In the first place the European idea of a passenger car is taken -directly from the old stage-coach. It is composed of from three to -six compartments, like that many stages fastened together. In each -compartment there are two seats running across the car, facing each -other, and holding eight or ten passengers. As a rule there is no -communication between the compartments. You get in the little room, the -door is shut and locked, and there you stay until you get to the next -stop, when the door is opened if anyone wants to come in or go out. -There is no toilet-room, and no way to go to the smoking compartment -unless you are in one, and no way to get out if you are in. I think -all third-class cars are of this pattern. On the main lines, on a -few trains and in some cars, there is a corridor running along the -side, making it possible to go from one compartment to another, and -sometimes there is a toilet-room. This pattern of cars is often called -“American,” and usually there are extra charges. The cars are short -and light, with two wheels under each end like wagon-wheels, and not -the double trucks of our cars. There is very seldom any ventilation -at the top, and as the rule is that the passenger next to the window -can regulate its opening, the other passengers can freeze or roast as -the case may be. In Germany the cars have appliances for steam heat, -but they do not seem to usually have them in England or elsewhere on -the continent. Travelers carry rugs, blankets and footstones in cold -weather. - -And right here let me explain a difference in traveling that accounts -for much of the seeming shortcomings of European cars. The people in -Europe hardly ever take long journeys. Sleeping-cars are rarities -and only carried on a few trains. A European who takes a twenty-mile -railroad trip thinks he is a “traveler.” They do not have our -magnificent distances and long journeys, and therefore do not expect -the comforts and luxuries which we consider necessities. Almost the -only people who make what are called “long trips” in Europe, that is, -ten or twelve hours, are American and English tourists, and they are -given a shadow of American comfort on certain first-class trains, for -which they pay right well. For example, Mrs. Morgan and I wanted to -take the night train from Paris to Marseilles, twelve hours’ ride. One -train carried a sleeping-car. It left Paris at 9 o’clock at night and -reached Marseilles at 9 o’clock the next morning. Only passengers with -first-class tickets can ride on it. I bought my first-class tickets -(nearly twice the second-class, which is the usual way), and then asked -how much the sleeper would be. “Twenty dollars!” In America we would -have paid $2.50. And this in a land where we were told everything was -cheap! I have often been heard to rail at the high rates charged by Mr. -Pullman, but I will be slow to do so again. I lifted up my voice to -the French agent on the extortion of charging twenty dollars for one -night, and he shrugged his shoulders and said we could go on the day -train,—that Frenchmen never used the sleeping-cars, and that if the -rich Americans wanted them they could pay the price. We did not buy -that sleeping-car, but a few days later, when it became very important -to hurry to Rome, we gave up eight dollars for a sleeper from Genoa to -the city of the Cæsars. A berth in a European sleeping-car is a little -compartment with two beds, one above the other, about the size of -pantry shelves. Two people cannot comfortably stand in the compartment, -and when one is dressing the other has to stay on his shelf or go out -in the corridor which runs along the side. There is no ventilation, and -the toilet-room, about as big as a barrel, is for both sexes. As some -American said, there is one good thing about a European sleeping-car, -and only one: you do not mind having to get off at an early hour. - -The railroad language is different in England. When I bought a ticket -in London I went to the “booking office,” and “booked for Liverpool.” -There is no conductor, but a “guard,” who is conductor, brakeman and -porter combined. Freight trains are “goods trains.” The engineer is a -“driver.” Baggage is “luggage.” A grip is a “bag,” a trunk is a “box,” -and anything is a “parcel.” Nobody calls the stations. When you reach -your destination you get off, and if you are a stranger you are always -in trouble wondering whether or not you have gone past. I have never -learned the theory of their tickets. When I “book” I get a ticket about -like ours. Often no one looks at it or takes it up until I leave the -station at the end of the trip. We rode one day in Italy nearly all day -before anybody looked at our tickets, although usually it is necessary -to show them to get on the station platform. It would seem as if such -carelessness would be taken advantage of, but it does not seem to be. -One reason probably is that in every country it is a crime to ride on -a railroad train without a ticket. In America if the conductor catches -you riding without a ticket he collects the fare. In Europe he can -send you to jail, and I don’t doubt but he would. In America it is not -considered even bad morals to beat a railroad. In Europe it is a felony. - -I had been told that railroad traveling is cheaper in Europe than in -America, but it is not. To understand railroad rates you must remember -that population is very dense and traffic heavy, much like suburban -travel around New York or Chicago. England is not near as large as -Kansas, but it has twenty times our population. Practically all of the -travel is short-distance. The same conditions prevail on the continent. -You can ride third-class, second-class, or first-class. In most -countries third-class is a good deal like riding in American box-cars -fitted up with seats. That costs about two cents a mile. Second-class -means cars such as I have described with upholstered seats, and the -price is close to three cents a mile. First-class means plush or -leather and a guarantee that your traveling companions will be nobility -or Americans or fools. The first-class rate is about four cents. In -most European countries no baggage is carried free. You pay extra for -fast trains, “corridor trains,” and for the use of toilet-rooms. In -order to travel in clean company and in ordinary decent style, after -you count in your “extras,” the railroad fare is just about the same -in Europe as in America, and not as cheap as it is on similar trains -in the populous sections of our country. In the stations there are -separate waiting-rooms and separate lunch-counters for first, second -and third-class passengers. The high-class European can eat his lunch -with the happy thought that no rude third-class citizen is on the next -stool. - -[Illustration] - -But if the European railroads do not do much for the comfort and -pleasure of the passengers, they are away ahead of our railroads when -it comes to providing for their safety. Accidents are not unknown, -but they are rare, especially in comparison with the frightful wrecks -which take place in the United States. Nearly every railroad is -double-tracked or has three or four tracks. The roadbeds are near to -perfection. Bridges are of stone. Rails are not so heavy, but are -stronger when the light cars are considered. And every mile of European -track is patrolled day and night. They use a half-dozen section-men -and track-walkers where we would have one or two, and they pay the -half-dozen wages that aggregate about as much as the one or two. In -Italy the track-walkers are usually women, and it was a funny sight -to see the Dago lady stand with a red flag at “present arms” when the -train passed. Most crossings are overhead or under, very rarely on -grade. Embankments are built of stone instead of mud, and the roadbeds -are constructed for centuries, instead of being just sufficient to -“earn the bonds.” I was in England when an accident occurred on a -railroad, and the next day the matter was brought up in parliament and -the government was asked what it was doing to prevent a recurrence -of such a thing. Just as the government protects the railroads from -beats it regulates their conduct for the safety of the traveler. In -some European countries, Germany, Belgium, Switzerland and Italy, -the government owns the important railroads, but in all of them it -exercises a strong control. If a European railroad would attempt to -operate a line like some of the jerkwater branches in Kansas, the -directors would be in jail. The result is that many of the conveniences -are sacrificed to rigid rules and the lives and limbs of the passengers -are not in near as much danger as in the United States, where -competition has gone in for comfortable cars and often neglected the -track. While the Europeans might copy some of our methods, our railroad -officials could get some information in the Old World that would save -them lots of wrecks and make their passengers more secure in their life -and health while traveling in the palatial cars. - -[Illustration] - -As the European does not travel long distances and has to pay extra for -his baggage, he rarely takes anything but hand-luggage. All through -Europe we have journeyed for three months, carrying all of our baggage -in the car with us. When we reached a station where we were to stop -there was always a porter on hand to carry our half-dozen grips and -bags, and for five or ten cents put them safely in the carriage that -would take us to the hotel to the hotel for a quarter. During the three -months I don’t think I carried my grip three times. There is always a -man standing around ready to do such work so cheaply that nobody thinks -of carrying his own grips even across a station platform. If you have -a trunk it is put in a box-car on the end of the train, and at your -destination you go and get it at once. There are no baggage-checks, and -you wonder the trunks do not get lost. But they don’t. - -[Illustration] - -The station-master always wears a fine uniform, and in most countries -he is a sort of military officer. When the time for departure arrives -he rings a bell or blows a whistle. The guards close the car-doors. -Then the station-master whistles again and the train starts, the -station-master saluting. The engine does not whistle or ring a bell. -The conductor does not yell “All aboard!” The station-master is the -whole thing. He is an autocrat and has entire control of the train in -station. - -Trains are rarely late in Europe. The schedule is maintained regardless -of connections, and therefore connections are usually made. The -railroad rules have the same weight as laws and are observed as such. -Railroad employés are polite. When a porter starts down a platform with -a barrow of luggage he does not try to run over people, or yell “Get -out of the way!” as in America. He goes slowly and calls out “Make way, -if you please.” Baggagemen do not try to break the trunks, and will -answer civilly when you ask questions. Some of these European ways are -not so bad. - -Summed up, these are my impressions of European railroads: Cars small, -uncomfortable, unsanitary; road-bed fine and management good; prices -about the same as in America, and chance of getting to your destination -much better. - -A passenger train with the long line of little light coaches is put -over the rails very rapidly in Europe if they wish. Many regular trains -make fifty and sixty miles an hour. The ordinary trains which stop -frequently and carry the third-class cars principally, are slow. A -freight car, called a “goods van,” is about the size of a dray. There -are not many box-cars, but the goods are packed on the open drays and -covered with tarpaulins. The effect is about like a thresher engine -pulling a lot of four-wheel wagons and drays. It looks “dinky” and is a -cause of merriment for Americans. But the Englishman retorts with some -reference to an American railroad wreck and we shut up. I have learned -this summer that while the United States is the greatest country on -earth, it can still learn lessons from the slow-but-sure-going English, -the sturdy Germans and the energetic French. One of these lessons -is that fast trains and fine cars ought to be supplemented by solid -roadbeds and careful watching. - -A New York clothing merchant was showing a customer some suits. The -man tried on a coat and vest, and when the merchant turned his back -he bolted out of the door. The store-keeper yelled “Stop thief!” and -called the police. All joined in the pursuit. The policeman drew his -revolver and began to fire at the fugitive. “Shoot him in the pants!” -screamed the merchant, “shoot him in the pants: the coat and vest are -mine.” - -So when we begin to fire at the defects of railroading in the various -countries I have to beg the shootist to shoot at the pants, the coat -and vest and some of the faults are our own. - - - - -THE TIME TO QUIT. - - - LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND, Aug. 24, 1905. - -To-morrow we will finish the job of seeing Europe and sail for home. -Just to be sure that we would not miss the boat, we came to Liverpool -two days in advance. When an American is on his first long stay in a -foreign country and the time grows near when he is to return once more -to the land and the people he loves, he knows now that he loved them -if never before. Strange scenes are no longer interesting, castles, -cathedrals and curious costumes are tiresome, and the only thoughts -are of the folks at home. Even a man who is ordinarily cynical and -unsentimental finds his heart beating faster as the hours drag slowly -by waiting for the time of departure. It would be a great relief if -one could walk ahead and be overtaken, but the walking is not good in -the Atlantic this season, so we are painfully killing time and going -through the motions of sight-seeing while “waiting for the train,” -or rather for the boat, which happens to be the White Star steamship -Republic. - -[Illustration] - -On the way here we spent a day in the town of Oxford. Everybody has -read more or less of the great university and its student life. Of -course this is vacation-time and the colleges are practically deserted, -but we wandered through the buildings and quadrangles and enjoyed -the walks and quaint streets. The phrase “classic shades” might well -have originated here, for the great trees hundreds of years old, the -ivy-covered walls and towers, the inclosed courts and the low-ceiled -halls and rooms, all make for a peaceful repose that forms a charming -setting for the intellectual life which ordinarily fills the place. -There are twenty-one colleges in Oxford, each large in size and -impressive in architecture. The style is a quadrangle with a large -court or “quad” within, on which the students’ rooms face, and usually -covered with grass and filled with stately trees. Each college has from -100 to 300 students, and the attendance at the whole university is over -3,000. The “young gentlemen,” as Oxford students are called, reside in -the college buildings, and each has a bedroom and sitting-room. Meals -are either served in the rooms or in the large dining-hall. There are -no recitations, and not many lectures. Much of the studying is done -with tutors. The intellectual effort of the student is to acquire -sufficient knowledge from lectures, tutors and books to pass the -examinations. The chief courses of study are the ancient languages, -philosophy, mathematics, history, and either theology, law, medicine, -or natural science. The range is not near so large as in America and -they do not go so much on what we call “practical studies.” On the -side the men do good work in rowing and cricket, and have all the fun -of American students, even if they are supposed to be in and with the -gates locked every night at 9 o’clock. - -The history of Oxford University dates back to Alfred the Great, but -the first authentic accounts of the work are of the twelfth century. -All learning was then in the hands of the church, and the first -colleges were primarily for the education of priests. Kings, queens -and bishops, interested in learning, established first one college and -then another, so that by the thirteenth century Oxford ranked with the -most important universities in Europe; and then, as education extended -to other professions, the colleges widened their courses of study, -and the government, while still ecclesiastical in form, became broad -and liberal. The colleges have large endowments, plenty of money, and -Oxford and Cambridge have educated most of the great men of England in -the last 500 years. - -[Illustration] - -Liverpool is a good deal like a big American city. A hundred years ago -it was a small town, but by taking the lead in American trade it has -become the most important port of Great Britain, and, counting suburbs, -has nearly a million population. Its harbor is a deep river, the -Mersey, and the banks are solid walls of wharves, docks and wholesale -buildings. It is a relief to strike a town where you go to see bridges -and factories instead of churches and art galleries. Liverpool is a -good place in which to taper off from the old and the curious to the -useful and the active. In our hotel here we have electric lights, -bathrooms, and an elevator that works. Hotels where you go to bed by -candlelight, bathe in a little tub, and walk up four flights of narrow -stairs, are interesting and comfortable, but they are better for a -three months’ stay than for a steady diet. Nearly every guest at this, -the biggest hotel in Liverpool, is an American who is getting anxious. - -[Illustration] - -One of the subjects in which I have taken an interest on this trip has -been that of the prices of products and labor, comparing them with -those at home. I have referred to it frequently, but perhaps a summary -will interest the practical American who wants to know “what it costs.” -In the beginning I want to say I have not yet found a place where -“things are cheap,” according to the American standard. The ordinary -people in Europe get along with things that are cheaper than in America -and they do without others, so their cost of living is not so high. The -ordinary artisan or mechanic in Europe will live with his family in -two or three rooms poorly lighted, ventilated and uninviting. His rent -is therefore cheaper than the American mechanic who occupies a little -house of his own and has a front yard or a porch. The European mechanic -will have meat to eat once a week or once a day, and he and his family -will live on what a great many Americans waste—they have to. Therefore -he lives more cheaply, and so can an American who puts himself and his -family on a diet of soup, potatoes, carrots and turnips. The ordinary -European mechanic is assisted in earning a living by his wife and all -of his children, while the ordinary American mechanic only expects -his wife to do the housework and look after the little ones, and -his children are at school until they are nearly ready to work for -themselves. The American mechanic will make from $2 to $5 a day, while -the European will get from 50 cents to $1.50. - -Clothing is cheaper in Europe, and there is none ready made. The family -either is wealthy enough to have tailors and dressmakers or makes -its own. A tailor will get $1 a day wages, a seamstress 25 cents a -day. A “hired girl” gets from a dollar a month to a dollar a week, so -if a European has money enough he can have servants—but he doesn’t -have them, and his wife and children work out. They don’t do this -spasmodically, or in hard times, but customarily and ordinarily, just -as their parents did before them and their children will do after them. -Shoes are more expensive in Europe, and not so good. Cotton goods, such -as shirts, underwear, etc., are as high or higher. Silk goods, kid -gloves and perfumery are much cheaper than in America. The grades of -clothing, etc., are different. In Europe the people use ugly and coarse -stuff such as our people never use. Groceries are at least as high in -Europe as in America. Meat is higher. You can get a “square meal” in -the ordinary American small town for a quarter. You can’t do it in -Europe, but you can get some soup and bread and carrots for ten cents. - -The ordinary American workingman figures that by working hard, being -economical and having a careful family, he can save enough to be -comfortable, educate his children and give them as good a chance as -anybody in town. The ordinary European workingman figures that by -working hard, being economical and having all his family at work he -can escape the poor-house, and his children can have the same chance he -has had. - -Of course the best prices are paid in the big cities, as in our -country, and I will illustrate by some of my own experiences. - -In London at one of the finest shops I had my hair cut and shampooed. -It cost me 12 cents American money, and in Hutchinson would have cost -me 50 cents, in New York at least 65 cents. The barber told me that -most English workingmen could not afford to pay 6 cents (or 4 cents in -a plain shop) and therefore cut their own hair. - -I could have had a tailor make a suit in London for $12 or $15 that -would cost me $30 in Hutchinson or $40 in Kansas City. The American -tailor can figure out how it is done. But here is a thing that -pleased me: The swell shops in London advertise “American tailoring.” -A European tailor sews beautifully, but he can’t fit. The wealthy -Englishmen wear clothes that would make a tasteful American have fits. -Americans are the best dressed people in the world, and American -tailors are considered the best everywhere. - -I could live in a hotel cheaper in Europe. The hotel-keeper here pays -his men from $6 to $10 a month and his chambermaids and female help -from $1 to $3 a month. His meat and groceries cost as much or more than -they would in America, but he works them more economically. The main -difference is in the “help.” - -[Illustration: EUROPEAN CLASS DISTINCTION. - - “_Big fleas have little fleas - Upon their backs to bite ’em, - And the little fleas have other fleas, - And so on, ad infinitum._” -] - -In women’s wares, silks, embroideries, laces and sewing are cheaper -in Europe. Cotton goods, shoes and ordinary clothes are higher. - -“Things” are just as high in Europe, people and their labor are cheaper. - -[Illustration] - -England is the natural friend and business competitor of America. There -is a marked difference in methods and ways. An Englishman will hold -fast to the old and only accept improvements and changes when he is -forced to or when he has fully decided they are best. In America we -usually think a change is a good thing, and will prefer something new -to the old just because it is new, when it may actually not be as good. -These are differences in temperament which have their advantages and -disadvantages. We could learn from the English and they from us, and a -half-way compromise would undoubtedly work best. - -[Illustration] - -The class distinctions are the most unpleasant feature of English life. -An American friend was telling me of an incident which illustrates it. -He was visiting a wealthy English family, and during his stay had a -long and pleasant talk with the gardener. He went away, and afterward -came back for another visit. He told his host that he wanted to see the -gardener and ask about some shrubs. “Very well,” said the host; “but -you won’t mind if I suggest one thing to you. Don’t call the gardener -‘Mr. Johnson.’ Just call him Johnson. We never speak to a servant -as ‘Mr.’” That was not snobbery in England. The host was a kind and -intelligent Englishman. It is the custom of the country. The custom -goes on down the line. The butler would not associate on equal terms -with the footman or the footman with the porter. And the host of my -friend would take off his hat to the good-for-nothing son of an earl, -who in turn would not presume to approach a prince unless requested. It -reminds me of the poem: - - “Big fleas have little fleas - Upon their backs to bite ’em, - And the little fleas have other fleas, - And so on, ad infinitum.” - -It is funny, but it is sickening to an American who knows that in his -country the son of the gardener may be President and the son of the -President may be a gardener and either of them may be a gentleman if he -is honest and straight and decent. - -[Illustration] - -A thought which comes to me very strongly is that a little visiting in -other countries not only makes a man a better American, but it gives -him the knowledge that there are other bright, smart and able people -besides those in the United States. The competition in this world is -keen, and every country has its advantages and its disadvantages, its -weak points and its strong points. There is no profit in belittling the -other fellow. If I have dwelt most upon the differences between America -and England, it is because they are the interesting things. There is no -interest in what is the same at home and here. The English are a great -people. A little country not as big as Kansas really dominates the -financial and political world. Out of the false notions of medieval -times they have built up constitutional liberty and have conferred its -blessings upon others. England is the greatest commercial power on -earth, and it is so because of Englishmen and not because of natural -advantages or favored position. It is old and interesting, wealthy and -powerful. It is good to look upon and pleasant to visit. But as for me, -I am with the Kansan who wrote: - - “I’ve been off on a journey—just got home to-day. - I’ve traveled north, and south, and east, and every other way. - I’ve seen a heap of country, and cities on the boom, - But I want to be in Kansas, where the sunflowers bloom.” - -[Illustration] - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Page 67 — insured changed to ensured. -Page 107 — ’lAmerica changed to l’America. -Page 139 — passed changed to past. -Page 152 — metroplis changed to metropolis. -Page 152 — taking changed to talking. -Page 168 — sursounded changed to surrounded. -Page 191 — vinevards changed to vineyards. -Page 201 — removed the extra word ‘one’. -Page 240 — Britian changed to Britain. -Page 277 — jaye changed to have. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY OF A JAYHAWKER *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where - you are located before using this eBook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that: - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation's website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without -widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |