diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/65123-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/65123-0.txt | 7087 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 7087 deletions
diff --git a/old/65123-0.txt b/old/65123-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 5a4c92d..0000000 --- a/old/65123-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7087 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Gold Hunting in Alaska, by Joseph Grinnell - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Gold Hunting in Alaska - -Author: Joseph Grinnell - -Editor: Elizabeth Grinnell - -Release Date: April 20, 2021 [eBook #65123] -[Last updated: July 3, 2022] - -Language: Englilsh - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from files made available on The Internet - Archive - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GOLD HUNTING IN ALASKA *** - - - - -Transcriber Note - -Text emphasis is denoted as _Italics_. - - - - -Gold Hunting in Alaska - - -_AS TOLD BY_ - -[Illustration] - -Joseph Grinnell - - -[Illustration] - - - -Edited by Elizabeth Grinnell - - Author of "How John and I Brought Up the Child," "John and I and the - Church," "Our Feathered Friends," "For the Sake of a Name," etc. - - -Dedicated to Disappointed gold=hunters the world over - - - -David C. Cook Publishing Company - -ELGIN, ILL., AND - -36 WASHINGTON STREET, CHICAGO - - -ALASKA. - - The New World brings her daughter out - With fuss and bluster now; - Adorers seek her snow-white hand, - And at her beauty bow. - Each strives her favor first to gain, - And rudely steps upon her train. - - They court her while they call her "cold" - And "distant" to her face; - The heiress smiles, while quick breaths lift - Her frills of ancient lace-- - The eyes of all her suitors rest - On glint of gold upon her breast.--E. G. - - - Copyright, 1901, - By David C. Cook Publishing Company. - - - - -Gold Hunting in Alaska. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The following story was originally written in pencil on any sort of -paper at hand, and intended merely for "the folks at home." It is -only by a prior claim to the manuscript that the young gold-hunter's -mother has obtained his consent to publish it. The diary has been -changed but little, nor has much been added to make it as it stands. -The narrative is true from beginning to end, including the proper -names of persons and vessels and mining companies. It is offered to -the David C. Cook Publishing Company with no further apologies for -its sometimes boyish style of construction. It will give the reader, -be he man or boy, a hint as to how a young fellow may spend his time -in the long Arctic winter, or in the whole year, even though he -be a disappointed gold-hunter. It may afford suggestion to mining -companies continually going to Alaska as to their responsibility to -each other and to the natives of the "frozen North." It may give "the -folks at home" some intimation as to possible "good times" under -trying circumstances. Blue fingers may not necessarily denote a blue -heart. - -ELIZABETH GRINNELL. - -Pasadena, Cal., Jan. 15, 1901. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - -We are a company of twenty men bound for Kotzebue Sound, Alaska. It -is needless to say we are gold-hunters. In this year of our Lord -1898, men are flying northward like geese in the springtime. That not -more than one of us has ever set eyes on a real, live nugget passes -for nothing; we shall naturally recognize "the yellow" when we see -it. It is our intention to ransack Mother Nature's store-houses, -provided we can unlock or pry open the doors without losing our -lingers by freezing. - -Why we have selected Kotzebue Sound as the field of our maneuvers it -would be difficult to give a rational reason. It may be nothing more -nor less than the universal rush to the gold fields of Alaska, which -rush, being infectious, attacks all grades and conditions of men. -That all grades and conditions are represented in our company will be -demonstrated later on, I believe. - -The instigator of the Long Beach and Alaska Mining and Trading -Company is an undertaker by trade, a sometime preacher by profession -and practice when not otherwise engaged. His character is not at all -in keeping with his trade; he is a rollicking fellow and given to -much mirth. - -We have also a doctor, as protection against contingencies. His name -is Coffin. He and the undertaker have been bosom friends for years. -The combined influences of these are sufficient to insure proper -termination to our trip, if not a propitious journey. The eldest of -our company is rising fifty, the youngest twenty-one. The oldest has -lived long enough to be convinced that gold is the key that unlocks -all earthly treasures; his sole object is the key hidden somewhere in -the pockets of the great Arctic. The youngest cares little for the -gold, being more concerned about certain rare birds which may cross -his devious path. The most of us have never met before, but are now -an incorporated mining company, like hundreds of ship's crews this -year. Each intends to do his share of work and to claim his portion -of the profits, if profits come. - -We have a two years' outfit of every comfort possible to store away -on a little schooner seventy-two by eighteen feet. Her name is -"Penelope;" you can read it in plain type half a mile away. She was -built for Japan waters and has never set keel in Arctic seas. There -are numerous prophecies concerning her: "She will never reach her -destination;" "Impossible that she is built for a stormy coast;" -"You may as well make your wills before you embark." And many other -cheering benedictions are tossed to the deck by friends on shore who -watch us loading the freight into her hold. - -We make no retort. Of what would be the use? Our hearts, our hopes, -ourselves, are on board of her for better or for worse. We wave -our handkerchiefs in a last "good-by." They are the only white -handkerchiefs in our possession, brought and shaken out to the -winds for this very purpose. From henceforth the bandana reigns -on occasions when any is required. Old Glory floats above us; the -"Penelope" is bright with new paint and trimmings and masts; she is -towed out of San Pedro Harbor, and heads for San Francisco for more -supplies. - -Out of San Pedro Harbor! The very same of which R. H. Dana wrote in -1840 as a "most desolate looking place," frequented by coyotes and -Indians, but "altogether the best harbor on all the coast." - -[Illustration: "Penelope" at Anchor in San Pedro Harbor.] - -We have a copy of his "Two Years Before the Mast" on board, and shall -be complimented by what he says about the Englishmen and Americans -whom he met. "If the California fever (laziness) spares the first -generation, it always attacks the second." Did Dana mean the crew of -the "Penelope"? We shall see. - -Having made a dutiful promise to my mother to "keep a faithful diary" -of our cruise, which, in event of disaster, shall be duly corked in a -large bottle and sent adrift, I now enter my first date since April -8, 1898, the day on which we set sail from San Pedro. California. - -North Pacific Ocean, June 5.--We are seventeen days out from San -Francisco, and have made a little over twelve hundred miles: that is, -in a direct line on our course to Unamak Pass through the Aleutian -Islands, for we have had many unfavorable winds against which we were -compelled to tack. We have sailed two thousand miles, counting full -distance. We have experienced two storms which, put together, as the -captain says, makes "a good half a gale." While the "Penelope" rides -the highest billows like a duck, at times she pitches and rolls in a -terrific fashion. Her movements are short and jerky, unlike those of -a steamer or larger vessel. When the wind blows hard on her quarter, -the rail is often under water. This makes locomotion difficult, -especially if the waves are rolling high, and everything is bouncing -about on deck. It is my duty to carry "grub" from the galley to the -cabins, and I can never handle more than one thing at a time, as I -am obliged to keep one hand free. I wait for my opportunity, else a -heavy sea starts at the same time and we go down together, "grub" and -all. However, I have had few accidents. Once I landed a big platter -of mush upside down on the deck, and at another time a gust of wind -took all the biscuits overboard, while a big sea filled the milk -pitcher with salt water. This was not so bad as Dana's experience -with the "scouse," which "precious stuff" came down all over him at -the bottom of the hatchway. "Whatever your feelings may be, you must -make a joke of everything at sea," he wrote just after he had found -himself lying at full length on the slippery deck with his tea-pot -empty and sliding to the far side. We are better off than the crew -of the "Pilgrim" in 1840, for there is plenty more, if half the -breakfast goes to feed the fishes. - -Down in the cabin there is the most fun. The table is bordered by -a deep rail, and several slats are fastened crosswise over the -surface to hold the dishes, besides holes and racks for cups; yet -when things are inclined at an angle of thirty-five degrees it is -almost impossible, without somebody's hand on each separate dish, -to keep the meal in sight. We have some trouble in cooking at times, -but the stove has an iron frame with cross pieces on top to keep the -kettles from sliding, which, in rough weather, can never be filled -more than half. We usually get up very good meals; that is, for such -of the crew as have an appetite. For breakfast, rolled oats mush, -baking-powder biscuit, boiled eggs or potatoes, and ham. For dinner, -light bread or milk toast, beans or canned corn, salt-horse, creamed -potatoes, and often soup with crackers. For supper, canned fruit, -muffins or corn bread, boiled ham and baked potatoes. Of course -tea or coffee with each meal. The cook makes fine yeast bread, ten -loaves a day. There are twenty-three men on board. Including the -hired sailors who are not of the company, and even with five in the -hospital we make way with a good deal of food. - -Our fare differs somewhat from that of the crew of the "Pilgrim." -whose regular diet, Dana wrote, was "salt beef and biscuit," with "an -occasional potato." But it must be remembered that we had several -articles, such as eggs and ham and fresh potatoes, the first days -of our cruise, which we never saw later on when we were confined to -bacon and beans for staple supplies, with dessicated vegetables and -some canned goods for extras. - -We left San Francisco May 10, after taking on board the parts of a -river boat, to be put together when needed, and much more Arctic -clothing than we can possibly use in two or even four years. The Sea -was very rough. Our captain had not been on board ship for two years, -and the result was that he, with every one of the party except the -sailors, was very sea-sick. The doctor was pretty well in a couple -of days, but the undertaker fared not so well, he stayed on deck -and sang and jumped about and did his best to keep jolly as long as -nature could hold out. Presently one could tell that he was feeling -rather uneasy about something, when all of a sudden quietness reigned -and only an ominous sound from over the rail gave indication of what -was passing. - -We have some fine singing. "The Penelope Quartette" has been formed -and practices every evening, making voluminous noise, but there is -no fear of disturbing adjoining meetings or concerts. The quartette -is composed of Reynolds (the undertaker). Foote, Wilson and Miller. -There are other singers of less renown. We have a "yell." which is -frequently to be heard, especially at getting-up time in the morning. -It is "Penelope, Penelope, zip, boom, bah! Going up to Kotzebue! rah! -rah! rah!" - -We are very much crowded and have many discomforts, as anyone can -imagine we should have in so close quarters; but we are a congenial -crowd. I was sea-sick for a week, but am all right now and capable -of eating more than anyone else, a symptom which the doctor fears -may continue, as I make it a rule to eat up all there is left at -both tables. There are eleven men in the after cabin and twelve in -the forward cabin, including the forecastle, and each set have meals -served in their respective cabins. Having been chosen as "cook's -assistant," I have ample opportunities. - -We have seen but few things of interest outside the boat, and that -makes us more interesting to one another. We have sighted no vessels -for two weeks. I saw two fur seals. They stuck their heads above -the water just behind us, eying us curiously for a few minutes, and -then vanished. We have seen one shark, but no whales. Petrels, or -Mother Cary's Chickens, are almost always to be seen flitting over -the waves. Black-footed albatrosses, or "goonies." as the sailors -call them, are common, following the boat and eating all kinds of -scraps thrown to them. We caught two with a fish-hook, but let them -go, as there is now no suitable place to put the skins. One of the -albatrosses measured seven feet three inches from tip to tip of the -outstretched wings. We fastened upon his back a piece of canvas, -giving the "Penelope," with the date and longitude and latitude. I -wonder if he will ever be seen again, and, if seen, if this will be -the only news of us the world will ever receive! - -There are several "goonies" which seem to follow us constantly. -We have named them Jim. Tom and Hannah. They know when meal time -arrives, and then come close alongside within a few feet. - -Tuesday, June 7.--The past two days have been stormy, but we have -made good time and are only four hundred and sixty-seven miles from -Unamak Pass. We saw several pieces of kelp this morning, which gives -evidence of land not far off. This morning the sun came out several -times, and every one is feeling quite jolly, which makes even the -sea-sick ones better. One of the most popular songs on deck these -cloudy days has been the familiar one. "Let a little sunshine in." -Everyone was singing it to-day, when suddenly the clouds broke as if -by impulse and the warm sunshine flooded the damp decks. - -The sun doesn't set now till nearly nine o'clock, and the whole night -long it is scarcely dark at all. To-day Clyde took the pictures of -the party in groups, or "unions." There is the "Sailors' Union" (six -of the boys besides the regular sailors, who go to the watch along -with them and take their tricks at the wheel), the "Dishwashers' -Union," the "Doctors' Union" (Dr. Coffin, and Jett, who is a -druggist), the "Cooks' Union" (Shafer and myself), and the "Crips' -Union" (the cripples, or those who are sea-sick, and do no work; they -are Fancher, Wyse. McCullough. Wilson, Reynolds and Shaul). If the -winds are favorable we expect to rest in Dutch Harbor for a few days, -as we are no doubt too early to get into Kotzebue. From all accounts -we cannot hope to reach the Sound until July 14. - -This sort of experience is, so new to me. I thought I knew something -of life on a schooner, during the trip to San Clemente and San -Nicholas last year, but this is more and better. Nearly everyone -save myself is longing for land, and they watch our course each -day as it is traced on the chart with more interest than anything -else. Just now I am sitting alone on a bench in the little galley, -watching the potatoes and salt-horse boiling. The sun has come out -and everyone is on deck, the "crips" lying against the stern rail or -along the side of the cabin. By orders of the doctor all the bedding -is airing on the deck and rails amidships, and some of the boys are -taking advantage of the fair weather to do their washing. I did my -own yesterday, although it was raining, and, as I have a "pull" with -the cook, I dried the clothes in the galley at night. Of course all -washing has to be done in salt water and it is scarcely satisfactory, -to say the least. This necessary laundry work of ours is destined -to occupy a good deal of our time and patience, and I suspect that -before our cruise is over we shall long for a glimpse of a good, -faithful washerwoman with her suds, and her arms akimbo, and her open -smile. - -[Illustration: Cooks' Union.] - -[Illustration: Sailors' Union.] - -[Illustration: Dishwashers' Union.] - -[Illustration: Crips' Union.] - -June 12.--We are in Bering Sea and all's well. It is partly clear, -but cold, with a sharp wind. We went through Unamak Pass in the -night. The captain thought it dangerous as well as delaying, to stop -at Dutch Harbor, so we gave it up with disappointment. After beating -for several hours, we are now well on our way straight northward to -St. Lawrence Island. There is no ice in sight, but we can smell it -distinctly. As we went through the Pass it was raining. and we could -see but indistinctly the precipitous shores. The Pass is not usually -taken by sailing vessels, as it is quite narrow, but our captain -brought us through all right in spite of fog and storm. He has not -slept for forty-eight hours. The shortest time ever made by a sailing -vessel from San Francisco to Unamak Pass, 2,100 miles, was eighteen -days; and we made it with the "Penelope" in twenty-three days. Hurrah -for the "Penelope"! - -This morning we passed within hailing distance of the ship "Sintram," -of San Francisco. She had taken a cargo to St. Michaels and was on -her way back. Her captain promised to report us, and he also told us -that the ice was yet packed north of St. Michaels and that several -ships were waiting. Clyde took a snap shot of the "Sintram." - -There are plenty of birds to be seen now. If I had faith enough to -warrant my walking on the water I would go shooting. Our small boats -are all lashed to the dock of the "Penelope," but the captain says -that in a few days we can put a skiff overboard if it is calm, and -then ho! for murre pot-pie! Everyone is hungry for fresh meat. We try -fishing with no luck. Saw a fur seal to-day, the first in two weeks. - -[Illustration: A Sunbath on Deck.] - -June 19. Bering Sea, latitude 63 degrees, longitude 172 degrees, 38 -minutes.--For the past few days we made good time, one hundred miles -to the day, but on this date we are becalmed. Clyde has gone out in -the boat to catch a snap shot of us. He need not hurry, for never was -mouse more still than the "Penelope" at this moment. The thermometer -registers 38 degrees on deck. We have sighted no ice yet, and hope -the Bering Straits are open. - -I am sitting in the galley, as my fingers get too cold to write -outside. We have just cleared off supper, and the boys are pacing the -deck for exercise. Some of them are below, where an oil stove in each -cabin takes the chill and dampness from the air. It is seldom that -the galley is not crammed full, but just now the cook and the others -have gone below for a game of whist, so I embrace the opportunity to -write. My diary is always written after I have finished my daily bird -notes, which I make as copious as possible. I have some good records -already. We were becalmed three days in sight of the Prybiloff -Islands, and at the time were so close to St. Paul Island that we -could hear the barking of thousands of seals, and, by the aid of a -field glass, could see them on the beaches. A few were seen about the -"Penelope," and one came so near to the boat that it was touched with -an oar. We unlashed the smallest boat and rowed out with her during -the calmest days, so we had some much-needed exercise. Frequent fogs -kept us near the "Penelope's" side, as we should easily become lost. -We saw no ducks or geese, but we had murres in plenty and pot-pie for -several days. For a change they were served up in roasts, being first -boiled, and were finer than any duck I have tasted, though some of -the squeamish crew composing the "Crips' Union" declared they were -"fishy." - -Of course I improve every opportunity during pleasant days to -collect, and the result is thirteen first-class bird skins. These sea -birds are almost all fat and the grease clings to and grows into the -skin so firmly that it is almost impossible to put them up. Among -the good things which I have secured are the crested auklet, red -phalarope, pallas, murre and horned puffin, but it will be difficult -to preserve the skins in this damp climate. Dr. Coffin is becoming -interested already, and talks of putting in his spare time collecting -with me. He has been taking lessons in skinning, and so far has put -up two specimens. We have rigged up a cracker-box for our bird-skins -and try to keep it in the dryest place, though it is so crowded on -shipboard that a convenient place for any particular thing is scarce. - -[Illustration: Speaking the "Sintram."] - -The currents in Bering Sea are quite strong, tending northward toward -the straits, so that even when the wind fails us we are drifting -towards our destination at the rate of fifteen to twenty miles a -day. On board we are all happy and in good spirits, notwithstanding -the fact that some have never before known a hardship, and their -eight hours watch per day on deck, especially when it is stormy, is -calculated to make them think longingly of their pleasant homes. -Besides, many of the boys have salt water sores on their hands and -chilblains on their feet. - -Yesterday the sea was choppy and several were sea-sick again. Even I -felt that peculiar indescribable sensation, but I ate a hearty dinner -of beans and salt pork and felt better. C. C. is suffering from what -he declares is "indigestion" a weakness to which he has always been -subject. He feels a reluctance to owning that he has the common -ailment. "C. C." is our abbreviation for Reynolds, the undertaker -and sometime preacher. He makes so much fun for other people that we -cannot help amusing ourselves at his expense sometimes. - -We passed St. Matthew Island and caught a glimpse of its rugged -shores through the thick fog. We can generally tell the proximity of -land by the increased number of sea-birds. It is not often that the -sun appears now, but occasionally it shows itself long enough for the -captain to take his observations. It is light all night and seems -like a dream of childhood to have to go to bed before the lamps are -lighted. - -I must pay a compliment to our captain. Besides knowing his business -thoroughly, he Is a jolly, agreeable man, always cutting jokes except -during a storm. He has been created the "Penelope's" laureate, and -has written a couple of poems that would make good his rank anywhere. - -There was one day when we all had an attack of the poetic fever and -wrote verses. They will be found in the ship's log. - -To-day is Sunday, and as usual we all attended services, which -consist of songs and a short talk from C. C. The rest of the day is -like any other. - -Last night an exhausted sandpiper flew on board and was caught. I was -asleep and the boys came and laid it on my breast. He Is now safely -wrapped in cotton wadding and laid to rest in the aforementioned -cracker-box. The boys declared they would whip me for not letting -him go, and yet when they get a chance they shoot at birds from the -boat for "sport," with no other purpose in view. I am doing my best -to educate them in bird lore, but whenever I get off the long Latin -names they give me the "ha-ha." By this time and after many lessons -the most of them know a murre by sight, and a fork-tailed petrel, -and a kittiwake; but when it comes to distinguishing the different -species of anklets at a distance they think I am fooling them, and -laugh at me until I show them the bird at close range. I never -realized before the vastness of the sea as when a solitary little -bird dips his wings and flies skyward. - -[Illustration: Becalmed in Bering Sea.] - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - -June 1.--Yesterday the fog cleared and disclosed to us the snowy -peaks of the Siberian coast far to the northwest, and in front to the -north of us the long coast line of St. Lawrence Island. We headed -for the west end of the island, intending to pass up the channel -between it and the Siberian coast. Saw two vessels in the distance -returning from that direction. After we had beat against a bad wind -all day we found ourselves almost surrounded by icebergs. With the -field glass we could see the whole horizon a solid mass of ice. Our -way was blocked. Turning eastward, we tried the passage between St. -Lawrence Island and the Alaskan coast. The wind was blowing bitterly -cold from the Siberian shore. Beating eastward along the south side -of the island, we have now left the ice behind. This afternoon a -two-masted schooner spoke us on her way to try the passage we had -just abandoned. She turned and sailed with us. She carried a pretty -tough-looking crowd of miners. They, like ourselves, are bound for -Kotzebue. We gave them the "Penelope" yell, which they returned with -three cheers. In sizing up their piratical appearance we forgot to -look in the glass. - -June 25.--Seventy-five miles southeast of Bering Strait. The Alaskan -mainland north of Norton Sound in plain view. Have spent five days -trying to get around St. Lawrence. Are still in sight of the east -end. It is calm. We need more wind. Entered Boring Sea two weeks -ago, and the days have been like a yachting cruise. Everyone is -in good spirits. Several of the boys are witty and jokes fly. And -the singing!--we exhaust the words we know and then make up as we -go along, like plantation negroes. Are playing several tournaments -in games. Only one so far has been concluded--the domino game. -Dr. Coffin and Jett were the unlucky ones, and last night they -entertained the crowd. Captain was master of ceremonies and dressed -in a most ludicrous manner. He made a mock speech and read a poem. -The two unlucky victims were treated to burnt cork and wore great -Eskimo muckluks (sealskin boots), murre-skin hats, and red calico -decorations. Doctor beat the big tin washpan and Jett blew the -foghorn. The captain's wand was a boat-hook with a shining red onion -on the tip and bearing a red pasteboard banner with the motto. "On -to Kotzebue." They were to march fifty times around the deck. Casey, -our Irishman, was appointed policeman by the captain "to keep the -small boys and the carriages off the street." And so, to the tune -of the foghorn and the dish-pan, they tramped their penalty. Then -the captain gave an exhibition of clog dancing, with a fife and -harmonica accompaniment. So one can see there is always something -going on to break the monotony and keep the blues away. We suffer -little from dull times. Whales are now as common as seals. One we -saw looked as large as the "Penelope." Clyde took its picture. I got -out our Winchester to-day. Am on the lookout for polar bears, which -are expected to frequent the ice packs. The cook has just yelled -"Supper!" and everyone is singing "Beulah Land." - -[Illustration: Sighting a Vessel.] - -Arctic Ocean, July 7.--The next morning after my last date we sailed -to within a mile of King's Island. This is a precipitous point of -rock scarcely a mile in diameter, and yet more than two hundred -Indians live upon it. Before we were within three miles of the island -the natives began to come alongside of the "Penelope" in their skin -canoes, or kyaks, wanting to trade. These were the first natives -we had seen, and our interest in them was unbounded. Fully fifteen -canoes, some singly, but mostly lashed together in pairs, reached us, -and their occupants came on board with their sealskin bags full of -articles to trade. They had a large quantity of walrus tusks, some of -large size, weighing probably ten pounds, and very valuable. There -were polar bear skins and fox skins beautifully tanned, also sealskin -coats and muckluks (skin boots). - -They wanted in exchange clothes, flour, tobacco, knives, etc, and, -if we had prepared ourselves, we could have obtained many valuable -things. Most of us saved what things we had to trade with later on. - -[Illustration: Natives of King's Island Coming to Trade.] - -Beyond King's Island our way was again blocked with ice. We then -turned east towards Port Clarence, but in a couple of hours -encountered the ice pack extending out full twenty miles from the -Alaskan shore. We thought our way was blocked, but the captain -thought we could keep along the shore ice, and did so, the passage -opening as we advanced. After skirting the ice all day we entered the -straits at midnight June 26, and found ourselves between the Diomede -Islands and Cape Prince of Wales. Everyone was on deck enjoying the -scene until 2 a. m. The sun loitered along the horizon four hours and -at midnight barely disappeared. The clouds and water were gorgeously -tinted in the manner so often described by Arctic travelers. No words -can do the scene justice. To the right rose the mountains of Alaska, -extending far back from Cape Prince of Wales, the shores broken by -their blue-tinted ice pack. Dark blue shadows stood the mountains out -in beautiful distinctness. On our left were the precipitous Diomede -Islands and Fairway Rock, with the snowy mountains of the Siberian -shore rising further in the distance. - -Ahead, our progress would soon be stopped by the long line of -ice extending under the Arctic horizon, where the sun was vainly -endeavoring to set. Just at midnight a spot of blazing light -appeared at Cape Prince of Wales, fully eight miles away. It was the -reflection of the fiery red sun on the window of the mission which -has been established at that point. These shores are not inviting, -and yet we know that here on this bleak coast are living, the whole -year through. American missionaries, whose purpose is as eternal as -the icebergs. - -Everyone was happy and exerting himself to express what he felt. Some -yelled wildly, and, taking off their shoes and stockings, threw them -into the ocean. Others sang with might and main. "Beulah Land" and -"Nearer, My God, to Thee" were followed by "Yankee Doodle" and "My -Country, 'tis of Thee." with every body dancing and running about -like a lot of Indians. "Penelope, Penelope, zip, boom, bah! Going -up to Kotzebue, rah! rah! rah!" was yelled till all were hoarse. -Finally, about 3 p. m., we began to quiet down for a little sleep. - -[Illustration: Nearing the Great Ice Pack.] - -In the night a small schooner like our own, the "Acret," caught up -with us, having found the passage we had followed. We passed through -scattering ice and sailed about fifteen miles beyond the straits, -but here were confronted by the solid ice pack of the Arctic which -extended on all sides. After sailing about in circles in this limited -area of water all day, the "Acret" was seen to be heading through -a break in the shore side of the ice, and we followed. Both boats -dropped anchor about a mile from the Alaskan shore in shallow water, -where the ice had left a clean anchorage. The "Acret" and "Penelope" -were so far the first boats to pass through the straits. - -We were all eager to land. As soon as the dinky was overboard, five -of the boys, with little thought for anyone else, as was quite -natural under the circumstances, jumped in and moved for shore. And -what was exasperating beyond description to us who were obliged to -wait our turn, they did not bring the boat back for two hours. We -have forgiven them, but they'll have to pay for it. - -At 6 p. m., Dr. Coffin and I, and others, landed and started on -our first tramp. Our feet were for the first time on Alaskan soil. -But we saw none of the soil. Moss everywhere, and flowers and wild -strawberries. It was a queer sensation to set one's feet down on what -looked like substantial ground and sink a few inches to solid ice, -crushing the flowers beneath. - -I was all eyes and ears for what new birds might cross my path. -Almost the first thing a flock of Emperor geese flew past me and -were out of range. These are the rarest geese in North America and -found only in Alaska. I saw but one land bird, a species of sparrow, -but there were large numbers of water birds. I obtained some rare -eggs, such as phalarope, western sandpiper, etc. A snowy owl was -flushed, the first I ever saw alive, and it was at once mobbed by a -dozen Arctic terns which had their nests near by. The land here is -low and rolling, with little knolls and lakes. The ground in places -Mas thawed about a foot--that is, taking the depth from the top -of the spongy moss. On the dryer knolls several kinds of flowers -were blooming and the grass was luxuriant in places. I searched for -insects, but found only two bumblebees, which I could not catch, -having no net with me. - -We stayed on shore until midnight, tramping over the tundra and -collecting birds and eggs. At 1 a. m. rowed back to the schooner. A -canoe load of Indians had come alongside, and they had one Emperor -goose. I coveted it. Tried to trade for it, offering several -articles, but failed to offer the right thing. Afterwards one of -the "Acret" men obtained it for an old tin tomato can. The "Acret" -fellows had also been on shore and succeeded in shooting another -goose, so they now had a pair of them, which they allowed me to -have for the skinning, provided I returned the bodies in time for -breakfast. I was happy. I immediately went to work, having the usual -experience in skinning sea birds with the enormous amount of fat -which must be peeled, rubbed, scraped and picked off. It took me -until three o'clock in the morning, and I was then glad to crawl into -my bunk for a little sleep. By night the next day the water seemed -almost clear of ice, so we heaved anchor and started northeast along -the shore towards Kotzebue. Soon came to the ice again, scattered -and in blocks. Keeping right on between the blocks, we came to a -big, fatherly iceberg which had run aground. The water here was very -shallow, and we had to be careful not to run aground ourselves. The -"Penelope" draws eleven feet of water, and a mile from shore it is -often scarcely three fathoms, and of course shallower towards shore. - -It was very exciting sometimes when the ice blocks became too Thick. -And they choked and moaned and snored and heaved against each other -in a fit of passion, and challenged one another to "come on." and -ground their teeth in rage, and swished calmly, and chuck-a-lucked -through the water. It was a grand sight to remember. - -At times several of the boys had to take poles--driftwood which we -had taken possession of for just such an emergency--and, standing at -the bow, push off the ice. Even then several of the larger blocks -got the better of us and would stop our progress by a sturdy crunch -against the "Penelope," scraping along her side and taunting her -with piratical intention. But she was firm and answered not a word, -giving only a few scales of her weather-beaten paint as a sort of -peace-offering. - -[Illustration: Anchored to a Grounded Iceberg.] - -The "Acret" was all the while accompanying us, most of the time -ahead, for she drew only eight feet, so she could sail nearer shore -than we could, where the water was clearer of ice. We anchored two -nights and a day, again sheltered behind a grounded iceberg. - -The "Acret" and "Penelope" were tied up side by side, and we -exchanged calling courtesies. This crew was intending to prospect in -couples, each two men having a boat. Each person was independent of -any other man, unless they should choose to form partnership among -themselves. That is, they were not formed into a regular company as -we were. We are no doubt better off individually as we are, though -this remains to be proved. - -After spending several days slowly making our way along the Alaskan -coast towards Kotzebue, through the still breaking ice, on July 2 we -found ourselves really in a dangerous position. The wind began to -blow from out to sea, thus crowding the ice towards shore, making our -sailing quarters more and more limited. We were already running too -close in, from two to three fathoms, when suddenly the schooner ran -aground, and we found ourselves stuck on a sandy bottom, with the -ice rapidly moving down on us. An anchor was quickly towed out and -dropped, so that by heaving in on the anchor chain the boat could -be dragged out into deep water. This was slowly being accomplished, -when a mass of ice too large to pole off caught against the schooner, -causing a tremendous strain on the anchor chain. - -Another ice cake floated against the first, and the "Penelope" would -have been crowded deeper and deeper aground had not, after much -chopping and prying, a crack opened up across the ice on our port -bow. The two pieces swung apart, leaving the "Penelope" free. Again -we tried to heave into deeper water, and finally with all sails set -and all hands pulling on the chain, the boat slid off in time to -escape another big sheet of ice. Of course this was one of the few -times we did not feel like shouting and singing. We held our breath. -It was an unpleasant experience, but one upon which we can look -back with a sort of quiet satisfaction. We shall-at least have one -hair-breadth escape to narrate to our friends at home. After dodging -and threading our way, the captain finally sailed us into an open -tract of water outside the ice. - -[Illustration: Natives with Walrus-hide Canoe.] - -We have made little progress these last days. We have been sailing -about in circles, at times coming within forty miles of Cape Blossom, -but still blocked by the line of ice that closes the mouth of -Kotzebue Sound. It is now rapidly breaking up and melting, and as -soon as an off-shore wind sets in, the ice will be surely driven -out to sea and our path will be clear. We are fifty days from San -Francisco, and the majority of us are longing for land. Vessels are -constantly coming In sight. - -Last night twelve vessels besides our own were seen waiting for the -ice to open. What a mad rush this is to a land nobody knows anything -about, and whose treasure-trove, if she holds any, is far in the -interior! There is plenty of country, if not of gold, for us all, and -we can take our chances. - -We have spoken the bark "Guardian" from Seattle with 130 on board. -The barkentine "Northern Light" from San Francisco with 120 on -board; the bark "Leslie D." with 58 on board, besides the "Catherine -Sudden," and others whom we have not been near enough to speak. - -While we were near shore natives. Eskimos, came on board in their -skin canoes nearly every day, and often stayed several hours with us. -Indeed they would remain with us all the time if allowed to. They -are very greasy and not at all desirable in their present condition, -dressed entirely in skins, and owning few civilized implements. Some -were on summer hunting trips from as far as the Diomede Islands and -the opposite Siberian shore. We have made some fine trades with them. -Rivers, one of the boys, got a good skin kyak for a pair of overalls, -a match safe and a few other trinkets. I got some nice seal (not the -fur seal) skins for an outing shirt, and about one hundred yards of -strong raw-hide rope, for soiled socks, undershirts, etc. - -It is a good opportunity for obtaining spears, toys, implements, and -clothing of Indian manufacture, etc., if only I could spare the stuff -to trade. With all the hundreds of people coming to the coast this -year, the trade will be spoiled by next year, or I would send home -for a box of articles for trade. - -[Illustration: Educated Natives.] - -These natives really require very little outside of their own -resources, so it is hard to tell what articles would be likely to -strike their fancy. Load, powder, tobacco, calico and clothes would -be the best things. - -The prince or chief of this tribe of Indians was an intelligent young -man about twenty-five years old. He could not speak our language, -but, strange to say, his wife, who accompanied him, was educated and -refined. She had received some schooling at Port Clarence. It was she -who interpreted for all of us during our trading hours. - -The natives came in families, and the children were not -uninteresting. Not a baby was heard to cry, although in the canoe for -hours at a time, nor would they try to move. These canoes or kyaks -are very strange boats, and prove quite treacherous to the novice. It -looks easy rowing in one of them. I had learned the trick during my -hunting about Sitka two years ago, and could not be induced to try -my hand in a hurry. Not so Casey, who went out by himself in Rivers' -new kyak. He started out all right, shouting that it was like riding -a bicycle, "very hard to keep balanced in." He was getting along -finely, keeping near the vessel, when he grew over-confident, and a -misstroke with the paddle set him out of balance, and boat and poor -Casey went rolling over together in the water. He struggled and kept -to the surface long enough for a rope to be thrown out to him, but -he could not get his legs out of the hole in the kyak for several -seconds. Seconds are hours in this blistering ice-water, and had he -been further from home he could not have survived the chill. - -No one has tried kyaking since, but as soon as we reach shallow water -I mean to practice until I have revived the lost art. - -We are now inside the Arctic Circle, about 67 degrees north latitude. -That is pretty well north for Southern Californians who, at home, rub -their ears when the frost nips the tomato plants in January. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - -Cape Blossom, July 13, 1898.--The voyage is behind us. What is -floating ice to a ship's crew safe on shore! We can laugh at whales, -and unfriendly breezes that whisper tales of shipwreck on barren -coasts. And we can walk at all hours of the day and night without -holding on to the rail, and we don't have to cook breakfast and -supper and dinner in an S x S galley. Oh, the charm of being on land -again, a land without visible limit; a land where we are not crowded, -and where we are not hindered from our work by newspaper reporters! - -I am sitting at the camp-table in the dining-tent near the new -"Penelope" ship-yards, and the sounds that greet my ears are varied. -The incessant pounding gives evidence of vigorous work on our river -boat; the hum of the forge and the ring of the anvil where Casey -and Stevenson are making fittings for the engine, the wash of the -surf close at hand, and last, but not least, the low, irritating, -depressing, measly whine of the mosquito--this last word to mean the -race. I would not intimate that there is one mosquito, or twenty: -there are millions! We wear bobinet masks which protect our heads -very well. To-night the wind is blowing fresh, and the winged plagues -are using most of their force to keep their land legs. It is very -warm, and a little exertion brings out a copious perspiration, but -it is less fatiguing to keep hard at work with a will than to stop -and think about it. No ice now in sight. Within two rods of camp is -a deep snowdrift, where we obtain nice drinking water. Ice may be -seen anywhere in Alaska all the hot days, but it is so mixed and -grown in with the everlasting mosses that it is not fit to melt for -drinking save in rare cases. Our ship-yards are located on the pebbly -beach, and it all seems so roomy and clean after our long stay on -the little "Penelope." though on account of the mosquitoes we still -sleep on shipboard. The boat is anchored a mile from shore on account -of the shallow water. As I look out to sea I bethink me that in all -probability Kotzebue, the Russian explorer, stood on this exact spot -and looked about him as long ago as July, 1816. And the mosquitoes -were biting him, too! - -I can afford to sleep only every other night these days. There will -be time enough to sleep when the sun goes to bed. The landscape is -beautiful--grassy meadows, green, bushy hillsides, and, over all, -thousands of wild-flowers of a dozen kinds; dandelions, daisies, -sweet-peas, and many other varieties. I have found a few beetles and -have seen some butterflies, but get little time for collecting either -insects or birds. My duty is to the company, and any time in which I -may do what I love best to do must be taken out of my sleeping hours. -Everyone is working with might and main, as the missionaries tell us -that winter sets in by the last of August. - -By the way, we surprised these missionaries, who have been located at -Cape Blossom some two years or more, and in that time have seen few -fellow-countrymen. C. C. Reynolds and Clyde and Dr. Coffin were old -acquaintances, and waked them up one day all of a sudden. The three -were told by the natives of the best way to approach the mission -building, and, as they did so, the first thing that met their eyes -were little boxes of lettuce and radishes and onions set on the sunny -side of the cabin to steal the breath and smile of Old Sol, while he -has his eye on the place. This is a Friends' Mission, and the three -missionaries are from Whittier, California. - -They are Robert Samms and wife, and a Miss Hunnicut. - -The boys are working on the river boat in two shifts from twelve to -twelve. This makes time for four meals a day, the largest meals being -at the two twelves, and I have one of these to get. I also have the -6 p. m. and the midnight meals to get; Shafer gets the others. Of -course we have our assistants who wait on table and wash dishes. Who -would have thought I would become a mess cook! - -I have just dressed three salmon weighing about fifteen pounds each. -We traded ten gingersnaps to an Indian for them. They will make fully -two meals for all of us. - -[Illustration: First "Friends'" Mission.] - -July 10, 2 p. m. In the dining-tent at "Penelope" -ship-yards.--Yesterday was a great day for us. We received our -first mail from home. The revenue cutter "Bear" brought it, and it -will probably be our last. It is sweltering hot. We find our most -congenial employment in drinking ice-water and taking cold baths. And -no one suffers from it. The river boat is nearly done and we have -been here only a week. To-day our first prospecting party starts -out, one of two, to go up the Kowak River in advance of the main -party. They are taking a month's provisions, and, besides prospecting -for gold, are to locate our winter quarters. We hope to make two -trips with supplies up the river before it freezes. There are so -many vessels of every description here that it looks like a seaport -harbor. The natives are "catching on" to trading schemes, and are -asking exorbitant prices for everything. We offered sixty dollars -worth of flour and other things for a canoe and failed to get one. I -doubt the things being of much use to us if we had them. The skins -soak up water rapidly and are then easily torn or worn. The Indians -keep them in water only a few hours at a time before taking them up -on the beach and turning them over to dry. - -Shafer went with our first party as cook, and that leaves me with -seventeen men to feed. I want to get in some collecting this fall -and am willing to work hard now. Of course everyone of the party is -industrious; we expected to work. The mosquitoes do not like me and -so I have the advantage of the others. I keep a smudge burning in the -tents so the boys may eat in peace. - -Penelope Ship Yards, July 17.--Oh, how hot it is to-day! And the -mosquitoes are rushing business, as if aware time is nearly up with -them, I slept on shore last night. We had a small tent and banked it -up all around tight, and then made a smudge and shut ourselves in. We -killed all the mosquitoes in sight and finally got to bed for a good -seven hours' sleep. There is plenty of driftwood along the beaches, -and we shall not be obliged to draw on our supply of coal for a good -while. Several tons of it is coming on the "Mermaid." The vessel -has not yet arrived, neither have several others whose crews warned -us before we left San Francisco last spring that we would not reach -Kotzebue this year. And here we are a week ahead of them, and one -party prospecting up the river already. - -July 19.--This morning the "Helen," as we have named our river boat, -was towed out to the "Penelope," where the boiler and engines were -hoisted on. She is back again now, and all is well save Rivers, who -had his Angers smashed. - -There must be a thousand people now in the Sound, and more are -coming. These first-comers are respectable men, with few exceptions. -A drunken white man shot an Indian up near the mission, and now there -will be trouble. The Indian law dates far back--"An eye for an eye." -A good many accidents are happening. Some men are lost, and so are -whole loads of provisions. We are safe; have lost nothing. Birds are -numerous now. I went up the slough last night and got three ducks. -This noon I served up a hot duck pie. This is the summer home for -many birds that spend their winters south. Every morning I hear the -plaintive song of the Gambel's sparrows from the bushy thickets -on the hillsides, just as we hear them from the hedges at home in -winter. Other familiar birds now rearing their broods here are -the barn swallow. Savannah sparrow and tree sparrow. Insects are -common as the warm weather continues. I caught a bumblebee this -morning and bottled him. As fast as the snowdrifts melt, grass and -flowers spring up, crowding the snow, so to speak, into more and -more limited quarters, and finally replacing it altogether. The -brightest and greenest spots are where the snow has the most recently -disappeared. This is a beautiful country. Some day when the speedy -airship shall make distance trivial, it will be a popular summer -resort, except that the water is too icy for the average bather. - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -July 23. Penelope Ship Yards.--The "Helen" is at last ready. Three of -the boys have cut up several cords of wood into proper lengths for -the boiler. - -I cannot help mentioning the flowers again. New kinds appear every -day without so much as sending up a leaf in advance. There are -dandelions, and purple asters, and cream cups, and bluebells, and -big daisies, and buttercups, and tall, blue flowers like our garden -hyacinths. There are acres of blue-grass as smooth and green as if -newly mown, birds and bumblebees are abundant. I should like to -collect more of these, but still have a hungry mob to feed. The -boys are working hard at shifting the cargo, and chopping wood and -doing other things, and of course are hungry as bears. My work gives -me some half-hours which I spend collecting. We have good stores. -For supper to-night my menu is baked navy beans--Boston baked -beans away up here at Kotzebue Sound!--corn bread, apple sauce, -fricasseed salmon eggs, fried salmon, duck stew, tea, etc. It will be -appreciated to the last crumb by the Arctic circle. - -[Illustration: Miners' Launch.] - -The days are growing shorter. The sun now sets before eleven at -night, leaving only a short semi-twilight. The doctor has just come -in from a visit to the mission. He reports ships still arriving, and -prospectors having all sorts of luck. Flour is three dollars for -fifty pounds. Liquor is being sold to the natives without stint. It -is against the law, but what is law without a force to back it? Dr. -Sheldon Jackson is expected soon, and he is the man who will not be -afraid to hunt out the rascals who are spoiling the natives. I am so -nearly related to the American Indians myself that I naturally take -sides with these natives. You know I was born on the Kiowa, Comanche -and Wichita reservation, when those Indians were savages or nearly -so, and I learned to love them before I could speak. Here and now it -is the old familiar story of the white man's abuse of the redskins. -It makes me indignant. We found these people confiding, generous, -helpful, simple-hearted, without a shadow of treachery except as they -have learned it from the whites, who are invading their homes and -killing them as they will, with little or no excuse. Many of these -gold-hunters that I hear of have already done more harm in a few days -than the missionaries can make up for in years. I could write the -history in detail, but desist. It will never all be written or told. -The natives are worked up to the last point of endurance and will -surely kill the whites. Whisky is doing its share of havoc, although -a few of the faithful mission Indians are trying to keep the others -quiet. - -[Illustration: The "Helen."] - -Sunday. July 24.--We are now waiting for the tide to take the "Helen" -out of the creek. Steam will soon be up. - -July 29, Dining Tent.--We are still here and the rains have begun. -The "Helen" made her trial trip and works well. We have discovered -that she cannot transport all our goods up the river, so have delayed -in order to build a barge. It is two feet deep, ten feet wide and -eighteen feet long, with a capacity of ten tons. - -August 1.--The storm washed the sand up and locked the "Helen" into -Penelope inlet. The only thing to be done was to dig a channel and -float her out. From ten in the morning until ten in the evening we -worked. We had to pry her out as the tide kept failing. We could not -have succeeded had it not been for some kind Indians who helped us. -They are always ready to help when they see us in trouble. Of course -we treated them to a good supper and they were happy. - -After steaming out to the "Penelope," we started north around the -peninsula to the inlet, arriving about two in the morning, after -the hardest day's work we have had yet. Here at Mission Inlet Dr. -Coffin. Fancher and myself are left with the camp outfit and a load -of provisions. After three hours' sleep and a hot breakfast the -rest went back to the schooner with the "Helen" for another load, -and to bring the barge, which by this time should be finished. Soon -after they left, yesterday, a stiff breeze sprang up and we were -very anxious. The "Helen" is little better than a flat-bottomed scow -and cannot stand much of a sea. An inlet near us is, we think, deep -enough to float the "Penelope," if we could get her in, and here she -would be safe all winter. The missionaries tell us that no boat like -her can stand the crushing ice in the open sea during the winter, and -that this inlet is the only protected place for miles around. - -The mission and village are two miles west of us. There are four -frame houses and a hundred tents. A Mr. Haines of San Francisco, took -supper with us last night and gave us the shipping news. Men are left -with nothing save the clothes on their backs; others are drowned; -many are homesick. Rumor reaches us that gold has been found on the -Kowak. But rumor is not to be relied upon when it is gold that sets -it afloat. - -If there is gold on the Kowak we shall find it. Our present care -is to get our supplies up there in safety, but we are going at a -slow pace. Six of our party are already up the river, six are on -the "Helen" en route to the "Penelope" headquarters, two are at the -ship-yards, and four are on the schooner. Dr. Coffin. Fancher and -myself are here at Mission Inlet. This accounts for all of us as at -present divided. We expect the return of the "Helen" to-night. - -We three have been living high since the others left. For supper, -with the help of our San Francisco visitor, we got away with three -ptarmigan, two curlew, twelve flapjacks with syrup, stewed prunes, -etc. After supper we went to sleep and did not awake until nine this -morning, when we had ptarmigan broth, fried mush, ham and flapjacks. -The other day we picked three quarts of salmon berries. They are very -fine eating, something like a blackberry in size and shape, but are -red like a raspberry and grow flat on the ground like a strawberry -vine. They seem a combination of the three. - -Two other kinds, inferior to the salmon berries, also grow on -the ground. We want to eat everything in sight. If there were -rattlesnakes I believe that I should cook them. I have broiled a good -fat rattlesnake when hunting in the Sierras, and found it a dish for -an epicure--that is, if the epicure happened not to see it until -served. I put up nine bird-skins this morning. They are two redpolls, -one Siberian yellow wagtail, three ptarmigan, one tree-sparrow and -two curlew. I have put up seventy-five skins so far. I have also -saved quite a number of insects, but these are scarce since the rains -set in. Last night I heard the beautiful song of the fox-sparrow from -a hill on the opposite side of the inlet. A raven, the first I have -seen, flew high overhead with ominous croaks. "Evil omen," say the -natives. - -Mission Inlet, Aug. 5, 1898.--The "Helen" has returned after a -perilous trip. She had the barge in tow and both were heavily loaded. -It took ten hours to cover twelve miles, so rough was the sea. She -ran aground twice, and the boys were indeed "tired" on their arrival, -but were wonderfully refreshed in a short time by flapjacks and -bacon, which I served to them piping hot, after which they slept for -eight hours. It has taken a good deal of hard work to get ready to -make our start, and a good storm is in order. "Indian Tom" is guide, -and he knows everything about the river and country. He says, "Wind -too much; bimeby all right," and we take his advice. The "Helen" and -the barge in tow are to carry two-thirds of the year's supplies up -the river, and the "Helen" will alone return for the rest. We cannot -get the "Penelope" into Mission Inlet, as we hoped, hence it has been -decided to leave the captain and two men with her all winter. The -provisions not needed this winter are stored on the schooner, and she -will be anchored down in Escholtz Bay, in as sheltered a place as can -be found, where she will freeze in. It looks dangerous, but it is -our only alternative. It would not take much ice pressure to crush -her, and then good-by to our provisions! They will try lifting her -by windlass and other means, and the captain shows his pluck in the -emergency. Pluck is what is needed in these Arctic regions, besides -plenty of flapjacks. Jett and Fancher remain with the captain on -the "Penelope." They hope to shoot polar bear and have other winter -sport, but I guess they will have a monotonous time. Perhaps some of -us will take a sledge journey down to them in winter. - -Dr. Coffin, Wyse, Rivers and myself are to stay here until the -"Helen" returns for us and the remainder of the stuff. I always -volunteer to stay at camp when a person is wanted, for in this way -I get in some collecting. The rest don't see so much fun in staying -at camp. It may be two weeks before the boat gets back and, outside -of my camp duties, I shall have considerable leisure for my favorite -pastime. Doctor and I went out and got thirteen ducks, which made -a good meal for the crowd before they started. We also had a large -mess of stewed salmon berries which, though very tart, proved a most -acceptable change from our dried fruit. - -[Illustration: "Helen" and Crew Start up the Kowak River.] - -Mission Inlet. Aug. 9.--The "Helen" left for the Kowak yesterday -and the weather has been perfect, so we hope she has safely crossed -Holtham Inlet. Until she returns we four are to keep camp and finish -up some work for the winter. We are becoming acquainted with the -natives. Like those I knew in Dakota and the Indian Territory, they -are very superstitious. They make us pass in front of a tent in which -is a sick person, and if we are towing a boat past along the beach, -we must get into the water and row around the camp so as not to walk -past. Many of them are ill, and they lay It to the gold hunters: -but it is really from exposure in following the whites around. The -doctor has treated several, and if they recover he is "all right;" -but if they die, it is his fault. Not so very unlike other folks! The -doctor makes the natives pay for medicine, as this, he says, "is the -better policy." He charged a salmon for some pills last night, and in -another case where more extended services were required, he charged -a nickel and two salmon. He does not intend to infringe upon any -existing fee bills in the States, but if any "medicos" thereabouts -pine for a more profitable field, there is plenty of room at Kotzebue -Sound. - -Some of the prospectors who went up the river earlier are now -returning broken-hearted, and are going home. - -Mission Inlet. Aug. 11.--The "Helen" came in last night with all safe -aboard. They got about one hundred miles up the river, and concluded -it better to get us all up that far before going on. We expect to -start to-night. Our folks met two of our first prospecting party, -who reported going as far as Fort Cosmos, three hundred miles up the -Kowak, and who announced that place to be our best winter harbor. -They had found some "colors," but nothing definite as to gold. - -This will prove my last entry on the Kotzebue, but the winter's -record will not be dull. I am thinking, by the time we thaw out in -the spring of 1899. C. C. and the doctor, whose proclivities are well -known to be of a semi-religious type, have a whole library of good -books, such as "Helpful Thoughts." "The Greatest Thing in the World." -Bible commentaries, and so on, with which we may enliven the winter -evening that knows no cock-crowing. However, we shall have games and -lighter reading. - -I have now more than one hundred bird-skins, some of them rare, such -as Sabines' gull. Point Barrow gull, etc. I believe I am the only -one of the party who could get the smallest satisfaction out of a -possible disappointment as to gold. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - -Penelope Camp, Kowak River, Aug. 28.--Here we are, one hundred and -seventy miles from the mouth of the Kowak River and hard at work on -our winter cabin. The "Helen" is almost a failure, else we should -have been much farther up the river. The river is swift and has many -rapids which we could not stem. The boat is slow. Her wheel is too -small. She will be remodeled this winter. It took five days to come -this far, and, as there are two more loads to bring up, we thought it -best to halt. We have been here a week and the walls of the cabin are -nearly done, so that we are on the eve of owning a winter residence -on the Kowak. We are expecting the "Helen" back soon with her second -load. - -The Kowak River, though scarcely indicated on good-sized maps, is as -large as the Missouri. At our camp it is nearly a mile across, and -very deep on this side, with sand bars in the middle. Other folks are -having a harder time than we. Only three out of the dozen or more -river steamers are a success. One is fast on a sand bar, and it looks -as if she would stay there. - -Some of our crowd think we had a hard time, but when we compare our -lot with that of others we see it differently. Hundreds are toiling -up in the rain, towing their loaded skiffs mile after mile along -muddy banks. We have not had an accident worth mentioning unless it -be the loss of a water pail. We took the wrong channel once coming up -and steamed twenty-four hours up a branch river. It was the Squirrel -River, and although but a tributary to the Kowak, is as large as the -Sacramento and San Joaquin combined. It was so very crooked that at -one point where we stopped to wood up. I climbed a hill and could -see its route for several miles. Our course went around the compass -once and half way again. When we got back to the Kowak we made good -time until we reached the first rapids, where our trouble began. -The "Helen" would swing around and lose all she had made every few -minutes when the current struck her broadside. Finally a squad of us -took to the river bank with a long tow-rope, and foot by foot she was -towed past the critical points. There were six of these rapids. When -the wind blew there was fresh trouble; it would catch on the side of -the "house" and blow the boat around in spite of us. She almost got -away from us once, and we were in danger of being dragged off the -bank, in spite of the fact that we dug our heels into the ground and -braced with might and main. It was a tug of war. And such is gold -hunting in the Far North! - -Many others had a still harder time. We passed thirty of these -parties in one day towing their provisions, while many lost their -boats. There must inevitably be great suffering here this winter. -Men have not realized what a long winter it will be and are poorly -provisioned. - -[Illustration: A Morning Hunt.] - -Our crowd is becoming a trifle disappointed as to the gold -proposition, and of course the general discontent is infectious. -Hundreds are going back down the river every day, spreading defeat -and failure in their path, and yet they have done no actual -prospecting. This is a large country and a year is none too long to -hunt; but with many parties the result is that after panning out a -little sand the job is thrown up. - -Birds are all right here, if there isn't any gold. I have been into -the woods only twice so far, but secured another rare specimen of -Hennicott's Willow Warbler. There is a bear in the woods back of -camp. I have "laid" for him three times, but he is very shy. - -Sept. 1.--The "Helen" came with her last load yesterday, and our -whole crowd is together again excepting the three men with the -"Penelope." - -After a big pow-wow it has been decided to divide for the winter. Ten -men are to take the "Helen." with supplies, and push up the river -as far as possible. They think they can do some mining during the -winter. We who are destined to live together here for eight mouths -are Dr. Coffin, C. C. Reynolds. Harry Reynolds, Clyde Baldwin, -Cox. Brown. Rivers, Wyse and myself. Time will prove if this is a -congenial combination. We shall resemble California canned goods in -our narrow limits, and the winter will show our "keeping qualities." -Andy and Albert, our Swede sailors, leave us to-day. They were hired -and do not belong to the company, and will return to Kotzebue, where -they hope to ship for St. Michaels. - -[Illustration: Our Winter Cabin.] - -Camp Penelope, Kowak River, Sept. 13.--Our cabin is done. It measures -25 × 30 feet. We moved in on the 7th. The river rose very high and -threatened to inundate our tents. The place where they were is now -under water. Our cabin roof was not a success. It was too flat. On -the night we moved in it rained heavily, and about 2 a. m. we were -roused by the water pouring in on our beds and our precious supplies. -We got to work without delay. The roof could not be repaired without -rebuilding it, so we spread it all over with flies and tent cloth, -which froze stiff for the winter, and now we are dry. When the cabin -was started it was intended for our whole party, but there is no -room to spare even now with only nine occupants. The foundation -was leveled on the side of the knoll, so that the top of the hill -is nearly as high as the roof and the earth is banked the rest of -the way over the wall. That leaves no point for the north wind to -strike the house. We made a lean-to on the west and the door from -the cabin opens into it. We have two windows, which we brought with -us, fitted on the south. The interior of the cabin is a single room -seven feet high. It has a gable a foot or two higher, which gives -"ample breathing space." as I told the boys, but which I have my eye -on as a storeroom for my collection. The roof above this structure -is fearfully and wonderfully made. If it had a trifle more pitch to -it, to make it shed water, it would be better. A heavy ridge-pole and -stringers run lengthwise, and over these are closely laid poles, the -butts at the eaves along the sides, and the slender tops bent over -and clinched on the opposite side of the roof. Above the poles is -packed a thick layer of moss. Above the moss is a layer of heavy sod -with the dirt side up. Above all is a layer of spruce boughs like -shingles. These boughs grow thick and flat, with needles pointing the -same way, so they make good roofing. - -The logs of the walls are chinked tightly with the moss. The floor -is the natural sand. We did not cut the timber from near the house -on account of the protection it gives us from the north winds. Trees -large and long enough for building purposes are not very numerous, -and we had to carry them a good ways. A few are as large as twenty -inches at the butt, but mostly they are from ten to fifteen inches. -It is all that eight of us can do to struggle along with one of these -logs, they are so heavy, and we put them on rollers sometimes. Four -of the men can easily carry one of the twenty-four foot logs, but a -green spruce log of any size is always heavier than it looks. - -[Illustration: Start for the Hunt River, Towing our Boat.] - -I have initiated "Brownie" into the secret mysteries of the cook -stove, and am one of the regular laborers now, working hard ten hours -a day. But yet it is fun; for we are working for ourselves, with but -the clean woods all about us, and there is a fascination in chopping -up the spruces, their delightful fragrance permeating everywhere. - -Sept. 19.--Six of us have just returned from a trip up the Hunt -River--Harry Reynolds, Wyse, Cox, Rivers, Clyde and myself. I was -culinary officer as usual. We had the eighteen-foot sealing boat, and -It was loaded pretty heavily. The whole of us had to work for it, -one in the stern of the boat to steer, one wading at the tow-line -as near the boat as possible, to lift it over snags, and the other -four tugging at the tow-line. We wore hip boots and outside of them -oil-skin trousers tied around the ankles. Even with this outfit we -were constantly getting into the water all over. Rivers got a soaking -the first day. He shot a duck and jumped out of the boat in pursuit. -The bottom is so plain through the water that it is deceptive, and -he went in up to his waist, but he grabbed the side of the boat to -keep from going under. He got his duck--and a ducking thrown in. We -had to pull him in and to the shore, where we got him out of his -wet clothes. In the afternoon Wyse also got a ducking by falling -into a pool as he was scrambling up a steep bank. We found good -camping-places. We had two tents, which we put up facing each other, -with a flap left up on the side of one of them for a door. The two -were heated by the sheet-iron camp-stove. At noon we did not put up -the tents, but got dinner in the open--flapjacks, coffee and bacon. -I shot two geese the first day out, which gave us a couple of meals. -They were young and so fat I could not save their skins. But I made a -drawing of one of them so that I could be positive of their identity. -Looking them up when I got home where my books are, I found them to -be the Hutchins goose. The doctor and I shot two white-fronted geese -on the banks of the Kowak. We see a good many, but they also see us -and we have to do a good deal of sneaking through the bushes to get -any. - -We had some narrow escapes, especially Cox, who fell into a -whirlpool. He was dragged off his feet by the rushing water, but we -pulled him into the boat after a frightful struggle. - -On the fourth day out Clyde and I thought we would explore a little -canon. Harry Reynolds had washed out several pans of sand from -different bars on the way up, but had not found a trace of gold. -Clyde and I hoped to have better luck, and started out in high -spirits with spade and pick and gold-pan to do our first prospecting. - -We found a brook in the cañon where we panned some without success. -Finally we found a place where the stream ran over bed-rock. The -rock had cracks and fissures running crosswise with the stream, so -we reasoned that if there was gold above, particles would have been -caught in these cracks. We dammed the brook and turned the stream to -one side, exposing the fissures in the rock. We then gathered several -pans of sand from the niches, examining it with wistful eyes, but -no trace of gold did we find. So we gave it up on that stream. We -found nothing save Fool's Gold. We kept on up the cañon and, as it -was yet early, decided to climb the mountain peak. As we went up the -spruces grew smaller and finally disappeared. The sides were barren -save for a thin covering of moss and lichens and patches of stunted -huckleberry bushes. These bushes, not more than three or four inches -high, bore hordes of luscious ripe huckleberries, and nearly every -hundred feet in our climb we would drop on our knees on the soft moss -and till ourselves, so often could we find room for more. Another -little black spicy berry growing in crannies was good. Just as we -were toiling up the last slope a flock of twenty white ptarmigan flew -up in front of us, and circled down to another ridge. They, too, had -been feeding on the huckleberries. - -As we rested ourselves, sheltered in a niche of the summit crag safe -from the chilling wind, a little red-backed mouse ran from a crevice -and scampered through the moss straight to a huckleberry patch, his -own winter garden. Clouds began to gather on the highest peaks, and -we started down, leaving them behind. - -The moss was slippery and we found that we could slide down the steep -pitches easier than we could walk or jump. I remembered seeing the -little Sioux slide down the hills of Dakota in government skillets, -and immediately sat down on my shovel, steering with the handle just -as I had seen the Indian boys do, and made terrific progress. I was -soon able to pick myself up, feigning to examine a ledge of quartz -while I rubbed my posterior, and looked back for Clyde. - -He tried sitting in the gold-pan and started all right, but soon -found that he couldn't steer. He went at a frightful rate, tearing -down the steep slide backwards, until he, too, found himself -examining the geological strata while giving some attention to his -anatomy. And then we had to hunt for the gold-pan which, from the -musical sounds which grew fainter and fainter and finally died away -altogether, must have got switched off into the bottomless abyss. -Will it be found some day generations hence and borne off in triumph -as proof of a prehistoric race? It was a race. Such is gold-hunting -in far-away Alaska. - -At camp that evening we were joined by a native, "Charley." who told -us by signs and by what few words he could speak, that he had come -part way up the Hunt River behind us, but had left his birch-bark -canoe several miles below, roaming off to hunt in the neighboring -hills. - -He told us that he had shot a bear the day before and had cached it -down the river, his boat being too small to take it. He wanted us -to go and get it. Sure enough, a few miles down, we found the bear -as Charley had said. It was all cut up, the skin being stretched -on poles and fastened in a tree. The carcass was also divided and -hidden in a pole-box raised high on a slender scaffold. Charley had -expected to come on his sled later on and take it home. After loading -on this prize we continued down the river, the Indian accompanying us -in his canoe. The rapids were furious and many, and we shot them as -if we had been behind a locomotive. It took a cool head to steer a -boat under these conditions, and Cox did it. At one place the stream -had washed under a bank above and trees had fallen over, making a -complete set of rafters. The current rushed the boat under a series -of these, like city roofs, and it kept us busy to duck our heads. - -[Illustration: We Receive Visitors.] - -We arrived home yesterday, making in seven hours a distance that -had taken us three days to go up. Charley gave us bear meat to last -a month. It tastes fishy, as the bears live mostly on salmon in -summer, but it is a welcome addition to our larder. During the trip -I obtained two hawk owls and an Alaskan three-toed wood-pecker, both -species being new to my collection. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - -Oct. 15. 1898.--In looking over my diary I find that I have recorded -no "bad weather." This comes of my having inherited a tendency to -look on the bright side of things. I hear such complaints as "bad -weather," "disagreeable day." "awfully cold." etc. Days when some are -grumbling about its being "too hot" or "too cold," "too wet" or "too -windy," I find some special reason for thinking it very pleasant. -It is no virtue of mine, as I said. It is natural. Up till to-day -there has been warm weather mostly. Now there is a sudden drop in the -temperature. Seven degrees above zero this morning. The north wind -is blowing and makes one's ears tingle. All standing water is frozen -and the Kowak has begun to show patches of ice floating down with -the current. The great river is choking. It is being filled with ice -which can move but slowly, grinding and crunching and piling up into -ridges where opposing fields meet. Suddenly it is at a standstill. In -a day or two the ice will support us, as it does now on the margin. - -[Illustration: The Wreck of the "John Riley'"] - -So quickly does the cold of winter close its grip. All these -achievements of nature are new and interesting to me. I ran down to -the river bank a dozen times to-day to note how the process is going -on. It is very low now on account of the dry weather of the past -weeks, but, as the choking goes on, a flow of water comes down from -above over the ice, making a double fastness. The only fish that can -survive will be those that seek the deeper places. There will be no -more passing of boats. We hear that the steamer "John Riley" has been -left high and dry on a sand-bar, and has broken in two in the middle -by her own weight. Two other boats are aground on sand-bars, and must -be taken to pieces if ever rescued. - -Since the Hunt River trip I have been at home mostly. I have been -cook, of course, a part of the time. There is no special work to be -done outside. - -I have collected some birds, but they are growing very scarce. I -went into the woods to-day for a couple of hours, and saw only two -redpolls. - -Redpolls look and act very much like our goldfinches in the States. -Rivers made me a bird-table. It is strange, but everybody declared -they would "fire" me bodily if I continued to skin birds on the -dining-table; that is why Rivers took pity on me and made me the -finest table I could wish for, and a chair to match. - -We have the saw-mill. Dr. Coffin and Harry Cox, with the aid of -others, ran that for several days, and enough boards were ripped out -to cover the cabin floor, besides library and cupboard shelves. They -declare "whipping" is hard work. I didn't try it myself, as I was -cooking at the time. I prefer to run a cross-cut saw. The saw-mill -worked "relays," working five minutes, talking fifteen minutes, -resting a half hour before the next took its place. Whip-sawing is an -interesting process, especially to the man who stands below and looks -up into the shower of sawdust. The doctor advised the plan of wearing -snow-glasses, so that the sawdust difficulty was obviated, but the -hard work was still there. The doctor tried his best to get me into -the business, for he said it would surely tend to straighten my back, -which stoops from constant skinning of birds at the table. He got -such a "crick" in his back from whip-sawing that he could scarcely -sleep for several nights. - -Besides the saw-mill, there was the furniture factory. C. C. and -Harry Reynolds and Dr. Coffin were engaged in that enterprise. As a -result the cabin is supplied with double bedsteads, with spring-pole -slats and mattresses. And there are lines of wooden pegs in the -wall for hanging clothing, and carpets for the bed-rooms made of -gunny-sacking stuffed with dry moss. - -A partial partition runs lengthwise of the cabin. At the kitchen end -this partition is composed of a tier of wood, then an entrance space, -and then a series of shelves from top to bottom for pantry, medical -department and library, which latter is extensive. At the farther -end is another open space communicating with the "bed-rooms." The -whole inside of the cabin is lined with white canvas tenting, which -brightens us up ten times better than dark logs. On the south side of -the partition is the "living-room," "dining-room" and "kitchen;" all -in one apartment to be sure, but yet with their recognized limits. -On the north side of the partition is the bed-room. There are three -double beds and three single ones, according to the wishes of the -occupants. A pole runs crosswise of the apartment, and on each side -of this is a line of pegs hung full of clothes. This forms a wall -dividing the apartment into "bed-rooms." Carpeted alleys run between -the beds, and the walls are hung with clothing. What we are to do -with all this clothing I do not know. - -[Illustration: Our Sitting-room.] - -Oct. 21.--Just through supper and everyone has settled down to read, -excepting several who have gone out to "call at the neighbors'." C. -C. Reynolds, our president, undertaker, preacher, all-around-man, has -taken to cooking. He started in well. For supper he gave us some fine -tarts. I am glad to be relieved from the cooking, and do not intend -to engage in the business again. We shall see. - -I am skinning mice now, little red-backed fellows which swarm in the -woods and around the houses. I set my traps every night. This morning -I had a dozen. Wolverines and foxes are common about here, but they -are too cute for me and decline to be caught in the steel traps -which I keep constantly set for them. An Indian shot two deer in the -mountains and brought them to the village. The doctor traded for some -venison, which is better than the bear meat, though I have no craving -for either. The boys think me a baby because I prefer "mush" to meat. - -Last Sunday the temperature fell to even zero. The trees were heavily -covered with hoar frost, and the scene, as the sun rose upon it, was -magnificent. - -[Illustration: Our Kitchen.] - -Everything is frozen solid. The river has nearly a foot of ice -already. The natives are fishing through the ice and their methods -are very novel to me. They select a narrow place in the river, -and through holes cut in the Ice they stick spruce poles with the -branches left on, so that a fence is formed across the river between -the surface and the bed. At intervals openings are left, and across -these openings nets are stretched. The fish are coming down the river -at this time in the year, and when they reach one of these fences -they swim along until they come to one of the openings, when they are -caught in the net. An Indian woman lies on the ice face down, all -covered over tight above with brush and tent cloth, so she can watch -when the fish get into the net. Besides netting them this way, the -natives have baited lines laid for the larger fish. Hooks are not -used, but the bait, a small fish for instance, is tied to the end of -a string, and with it a short, slender stick. A large fish swallows -the bait and the stick with it. When the fish starts away the line -is jerked taut, and the stick turns crosswise in his stomach, and -holds the game secure until drawn up through the hole in the ice. -Several of us were over watching the Indians fishing yesterday and -were examining Some of the fish. I picked one up in my innocence, but -was commanded to put it down. The women were very much vexed with me, -and were careful to place the fish exactly the way it was. Clyde came -with his camera to take some photographs, but the natives considered -it "bad luck," and he was remonstrated with vehemently, and finally -went away, dallying until he had taken a shot or two. These women -will have their hands full with us boys before the winter is over, I -fear. - -The natives will not dress any deer skins until the snow comes, "so -that game will be plenty" this winter. I am at work upon a small -vocabulary of the Eskimo language, and already have two hundred -words. The language has many guttural sounds, and is hard to express -with letters, but I am learning it rapidly, and getting the words -written as accurately as possible under difficulties. - -One of the Indian boys, Lyabukh, is very bright, and understands what -I want. He is learning English very fast. - -[Illustration: Come to Church.] - -Our preacher holds services regularly every Sunday, and we go out to -gather in all the Indians of the village and the white men in the -vicinity. Four parties of three white men each, have put up winter -quarters within a mile of us, so we have quite a community. Besides -these, there are some twenty prospectors six miles below us and five -above us. All have built snug winter cabins. About a mile above us, -back in the woods, twenty Eskimos have established their village for -the winter, and built their dug-outs, or igloos. There is seldom -an hour in the day when two or more natives are not in our cabin, -and, with a little encouragement, such as C. C, with his missionary -instincts, gives them, they have become very persistent visitors. - -Last Sunday services were largely attended, there being fifteen -natives, and ten of our white neighbors. It was proposed, and -unanimously carried, that a church be constructed by this community. -So Monday. Tuesday and Wednesday over a dozen men were at work on the -new chapel, which is located back in a sheltered place in the woods. -It is now finished except the fireplace, and will serve as a church, -school-room, and lecture-room or town hall. - -Several of us are going to start a school for the Eskimo children in -the neighborhood. We have seven months before us to occupy in some -manner, and why not this? It would be monotonous to be continuously -biting off northern zephyrs, and pulling the threads out of a tangled -beard, and rubbing one's ears, and eating baking-powder biscuit; -biscuit that are none of your light, fluffy things that have no -backbone to them, but something that will stay with you on a hunt or -a tramp with the temperature below the counting mark. Then there are -the nice fat sides of bacon carefully preserved--"the white man's -buffalo meat," as the Sioux Indians used to call it. We have ordinary -fried bacon, and hashed bacon, and pork chops. When it is dreadfully -cold and it doesn't slice readily, we chop it up with the axe--and -then it is we have pork chops! - -For variety's sake, if for nothing else, we would all vote the -"school." Our life on the Kowak will not be a sealed book never to -be read again when once the springtime lays it away on the shelf. We -shall take it down and peruse it and possibly make marginal entries -in it when we are too old to do anything else. Sitting in the chimney -corner toothless, and feeble of gait, it will give us pleasure to -remember the "school" in the woods, on the banks of the mighty Kowak. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - -Oct. 30.--Returned last night from a six days' trip up Hunt River. -Clyde and I started together with the expectation of getting far -into the mountain ranges. As has been my custom from a small boy -when starting on a trip. I made big preparations, much bigger than -necessary. We had grub enough for two weeks. The boys expected great -things on our return--bear, deer and other game, all of which was -confidently promised. But to tell the honest truth, I wanted to get -some chickadees and butcher birds. To carry our voluminous outfit we -appropriated a sled belonging to a neighboring Indian who had gone -fishing. These native sleds are very light, having birch runners, -and slender spruce frame-work, the whole strongly lashed together -with raw-hide thongs. Every morning before loading we poured water -on the runners, thus forming an ice shoe. As yet there is no snow, -so that our route necessarily lay along the frozen river, which was -covered with a foot of ice. Our load weighed about three hundred -pounds, and where the ice was smooth little exertion was needed to -draw the sled as fast as we could walk. In some places sand had -blown into the ice and such spots would give us hard work. We wore -"creepers" on our heavy boots--that is, a kind of conical pointed -spike, screwed into the bottoms, three into the heel and four into -the sole of the shoe. With these we can walk anywhere up or down upon -the ice without slipping. In traveling, one of us pulled the sled, -with the rope over his shoulder, while the other pushed. Across the -rear of the sled were two sticks projecting backwards and upwards, -with a cross-piece to push against, baby-carriage fashion. - -The first day we made rapid progress, making twenty-five miles. We -camped at night not far from the first foot-hills. The tent was -raised in a grove of cottonwoods near the river, and soon a fire -roared in the camp stove. When I had the fire well started, I went -down to get a pail of water. I walked to the middle of the creek and -began to chop hard where I thought the ice was thinnest. Sure enough -I had judged correctly, for with the second stroke the ice gave way -under me, and down I went to the arm-pits in the icy water. I had -fallen through an air hole. Luckily the ice all around was firm, so -that I could raise myself up and wriggle out, or else my bath might -have been continued. As it was, before I could reach the tent my -clothes were frozen stiff. The temperature was below zero. - -Fortunately for me I had a warm tent and a change of clothes to go -to. Meanwhile Clyde had cut a big pile of wood and soon we were -wrestling with piles of flapjacks. - -After supper I had another experience with the ice. Forgetting that -I had exchanged my wet boots for a pair of shoes without creepers -in them. I started to go across the river. After the first ice had -formed the river had fallen, and now the ice sagged downward from -the banks towards the middle, hammock-wise. As soon as I stepped -on the ice my feet flew out from under me and down I slid. I got -up, no worse for wear, but with a sudden recollection that I had no -creepers on. I cautiously started to walk to the bank, but on account -of the slant of the slippery ice, I could make little headway before -slipping back. I was in a similar position to that of a mouse in a -tin basin. Finally by walking down the river a short distance, I -pulled myself up by an overhanging willow. - -Next morning at sunrise--eight o'clock--we started on up the river. -Soon we came to long stretches of open water where the stream had -been too swift to freeze over. In several places the icy margin was -so narrow that it afforded room for but one runner on the ice, and we -had to drag the sled over pebbles and sand. - -Owing to the fact that the stream became swifter the further we went, -we turned about and started back with a view to making camp among the -willows down the river, where we had seen the most birds on the way -up. - -[Illustration: Native Method of Piling Winter Wood.] - -Clyde shot twice with his rifle at a red fox, but missed it. He got -"rattled." as one usually does when shooting at game, and as I have -seen good hunters do. He tried a target at the same distance as the -fox had been and hit the bull's-eye squarely. - -We got down to the willows late in the evening, but in time to select -a sheltered place for the tent before dark. While I cooked the supper -Clyde gathered a large stack of hay for our bed. In a swale near by -the finest kind of red-top hay, all cured, stood waist deep. Here, -among the willows, eight miles from Camp Penelope, we remained for -four nights. There were a good many fox and wolf tracks in the sand, -and I had my traps set all the time, but without success. However. -I obtained a mouse new to me--the lemming. Clyde tramped through -the country toward the mountains, but saw nothing of importance. -He fished and brought back three grayling. I paid my respects to -the small birds and secured four rare chickadees, besides several -redpolls, pine grosbeaks. Alaskan jay, grouse, ptarmigan, etc. I had -bad luck with ptarmigan. I missed seven good shots for some reason. -The ptarmigan are now clothed in very thick winter plumage, which may -account for it in part. - -I secured five. They are pure, spotless white with black tails. They -are very conspicuous now, until the snow comes, and they seem to -realize it, for they are extremely shy. They remain in flocks in the -willow thickets. In the middle of the day they may be found dusting -themselves on the sunny side of the river banks among the willows. -Their tracks are everywhere. Although there is no snow on the ground, -in many places there is a thick layer of hoar frost on the sand and -grass, and tracks of any bird or animal are easily seen. - -The days have grown very short now. We would have to light our candle -by half-past hour, and soon we would begin to yawn, and by six we -would go to sleep, not to get up again until eight the next morning; -and even then it is with reluctance, on account of the cold. The tent -was easy to keep comfortably warm on the inside as long as the fire -burned in the stove, but in an hour after the fire went out it was -as cold inside as it was outside. Clyde and I slept on the hay with -two pairs of blankets under us, and two pairs over us, and a large -canvas sheet outside of the blankets well tucked in. And the blankets -were no common ones. They were made for the Arctic trade, and were -as thick as an ordinary comforter. And then we wore all our clothes. -Each had on three pairs of heavy wool socks, a hood and mittens. - -In the morning the edges of the blankets were faced with ice from our -breath, and the inside of the tent sparkled with a beauty I cannot -describe. It was fourteen degrees below zero the last morning, and -the boys at home declared we got "frozen out," the reason we returned -so soon. When they found out that we did not go even to the foot -of the mountains, but had camped all that time in the willows just -across the river, they ridiculed us unmercifully, especially the -doctor. But I'll be even with him some bright Arctic day. He even -insinuated that I went on that trip just to be able to cook as much -mush as I wanted to eat. I will admit that mush was a very agreeable -feature of the trip. - -I really obtained what I went for--the chickadees. I have tramped -with a burro (a California donkey), a canoe, and at last with a sled, -and I must say that the sled is preferable when one has a level -surface to travel over. - -We had carried grub for two weeks, a 7 × 10 tent, camp stove and -three lengths of pipe, four pairs of blankets, tent fly, sailor bag -full of clothing, axe, hatchet, camera, two guns, traps, etc. I think -I will make another trip soon if the weather remains clear. - -Nov. 7.--A week ago Dr. Coffin, Clyde and Rivers, with a Dr. Gleaves -of the Hanson Camp below us, started up the Kowak to visit the other -section of our company about one hundred and fifty miles north, and -to find out all the news of interest along the route. They walked, -carrying food, abundant clothing, and camping tools, on a sled. -They hope to make the round trip in three weeks. I had intended to -make the trip with them, but have not yet put up all the birds in -my possession, and must work on them. We are a small family now, -only six. C. C. still cooks, and I am willing he should continue the -good work. He makes pies and cakes almost "as good as mother used to -make," and fine yeast bread. - -A damp, raw east wind makes it bitterly cold to-day. At daylight -this morning I went across the river to the willows for a couple of -hours. It was six degrees below zero when I started, and I wore only -a thin hood and mittens and a canvas jumper. By the time I got well -across I felt nearly frozen, and as soon as possible I built a fire. -My nose was frost-bitten before I knew it. I shot a ptarmigan and two -redpolls before returning. - -Chenetto, one of our native neighbors, trapped a big gray wolf, a -white fox and a red fox last week, I have tried to trade for them, -but the natives say they need them for clothing; and they very -plainly do, for these are the poorest Indians we have met. I regret -our opportunity for trading down at Cape Prince of Wales. We expected -the same advantage in Kotzebue, but are disappointed. One or two of -our company keep an eye on special bargains and appropriate them. - -Last week a German called at every camp on the Kowak working up a -"winter mail route." He had skated up from the mouth of the river, -and proposed to take letters down to Cape Blossom for one dollar -each. A reindeer team is expected there from St. Michaels in December -which will bring in or carry back any mail. He is called "The Flying -Dutchman." - -Another man from up the river came down yesterday on the same -business, proposing further to take mail himself to St. Michaels. -Some of our Iowa neighbors warned us of him as a possible "crook." He -claims to have seven hundred letters promised at one dollar each. One -meets all kinds of people in this desolate country, and even the face -of a "crook" is not rare. - -[Illustration: The "Flying Dutchman."] - -Schemers are trying various ways to get money. The gold proposition -here is an entire failure so far, and the stories published are -no better than "made up on purpose." It is supposed they were -constructed by the transportation companies, and surely these have -reaped a harvest this year. A thousand men are in winter quarters -in the Kotzebue region, besides the many who went back the last -thing in the fall. Hundreds of thousands of dollars were expended -by parties coming here, and nothing is taken out; all of that money -going to the transportation companies and merchants of San Francisco -and Seattle. The H---- crowd alone, who are camped five miles below -us, paid $31,000 for their outfit, including sailing vessel and -river steamer. Part of this company got "cold feet" and went back, -and the remainder have tons of provisions here to dispose of. They -cannot get it into the interior to the Klondike regions, and so they -will have to transport it all back down the river and so on to San -Francisco, unless they can dispose of it on the way, which is not -likely. It is strange how many fools were started to this country -by bogus reports in the newspapers. Each party thought itself about -the only one coming up here, and, what is most amusing, many of them -had a "sure thing." Several parties whom we know of paid someone for -a "tip" as to the exact place where the gold was waiting for the -lucky men to pick it up. When they arrived at the Sound they rushed -as soon as their feet could carry them, to take possession of their -promised gold, only to find that they had been duped. They returned -with righteous indignation burning in their bosoms, and to this day -and for all time to come, justice is in hiding for the scoundrels, if -they are found. - -This country may possibly have gold in it, for I know that it has not -been prospected as it should. Men pan out on a sand-bar of a river -here and there and are discouraged at finding nothing. And moreover -they will not do another stroke of work, but either return to the -States, or camp somewhere waiting for "another man" to sink shafts -and do what we know is real prospecting. I should not be surprised -if three-fourths of the people on this river are idle, waiting for -the others to dig. I know that our camp has done practically nothing, -as may be seen from the reports which I have made, when I myself was -supposed to be one of the prospectors. We are all equally guilty. -It seems that people expected to find mines all ready to work, and, -since none are visible, sit down and give it up. Our company, as well -as many another, is something of a farce when it comes to being a -"mining company." We are doing nothing. It seems that when the gold -fever takes hold of a man it deprives him of a fair proportion of -his reason. But it cannot be denied that we are getting experience. -Who would not be a miner under such comfortable circumstances as -ours? Meanwhile I am skinning mice and chickadees. I am doing exactly -what I want to do, and work here is original work of which I shall -be glad in time to come. I would be nowhere else In the world than -right here now. One cannot take a stroll in the Arctics every day. I -am resolved to remain as long as I can and improve my opportunities. -If the company disbands I shall stay with the missionaries. I do -not know what this gold-hunting expedition came up here for unless -to accommodate me, unintentionally of course. Everything delights -me, from the hoar frost on my somewhat scanty though growing beard, -to the ice-locked Kowak and its border of silver-laden spruces. And -the ptarmigans: What beautiful birds! part and parcel in color and -endurance of this frozen world. And the winter is not half over. What -revelations when spring knocks at the barred doors! How alert the -awakening landscape I can as yet only partially realize. - -[Illustration: In the Spruce Woods.] - - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - -Nov. 12, 7 o'clock a. m.--Great excitement prevails. The "Flying -Dutchman" returned down the Kowak last night. He is the German who -passed on about twelve days ago to learn all the news and gather -mail. He brings us good news, such news as makes the heart of a -gold-hunter in the Arctics palpitate with emotion. He met a man -above the Par River, one hundred and seventy-five miles east of us, -who had just come over from the head waters of the Koyukuk River to -get a sled-load of provisions. This man reported that gold in large -quantities had been found on a branch of the Koyukuk near the head of -this river, and that he and others had staked out rich claims. The -"Flying Dutchman" also reported that six of our boys from the upper -Penelope Camp had already started with sleds for that region, and -that Dr. Coffin had reached the Penelope Camp in safety and was now -on his way back to give us the news. We expect his party to-night. -This news, if true, changes the whole aspect of things. We have -heretofore had no assurance that gold had been found in this country, -and we believed ourselves to be the victims of "fake" stories. What -a change of feeling in our camp! Although this report may also -be a fake, we will enjoy these happy expectations until further -developments. One thing is true, and that is that our boys above -here have started a party to the head of the Koyukuk, and must have -learned something favorable. When the doctor and the rest get back -to-night we shall certainly know all about it. - -It was just a day or two ago that I was writing a discouraging entry. -So hope follows despair, and again despair may follow on the heels of -hope, with gold-hunters. - -We have two sleds now nearly finished, so that if the doctor confirms -the news, we will be ready to start immediately for the Koyukuk in -the teeth of an Arctic winter. Let it growl: What care gold-hunters -for old Boreas? We are in high spirits. Last night we had what is -denominated with us "a high old time." We yelled, and danced, and -sang impromptu songs, such as the following, which needs the camp -conditions to give it the true ring: - - The Flying Dutchman came round the bend, - Good-by, old Kowak, good-by; - Shouting the news to all the men, - Good-by, old Kowak, good-by. - Gold is found on the Koyukuk, - The people here will be piechuck (Eskimo for "gone"). - The "Penelope" gang have made a sleigh, - And part are now upon the way. - If you get there before I do. - Stake a claim there for me, too. - We'll start right now with spade and shovel, - And dig out gold to beat the devil. - -This immortal song proves that we are a lively crowd. With the banjo -and autoharp as accompaniment, we demonstrate a "good time" while we -feel like it. - -Meanwhile, until further news, we shall continue to get ready between -the songs. Brown and I and the two Harrys are making a sled. - -Last Sunday we had a good-sized congregation for morning "services." -Twenty-five white men were present, but only a few natives. We were -wondering why the Eskimos were not coming, and Harry Reynolds went up -to the village to see. He found them all playing poker. Harry finally -persuaded two men to come, after they had won all the stakes. The -rest kept on playing. Natives who cannot speak a word of English--and -very few can--know how to play cards, and can read the numbers in -their own language and count up faster than we. They play for lead, -cartridges, tobacco, etc., but the stakes are never very large, owing -to their limited means. Yesterday our cabin was full of Eskimos all -day. - -A couple of young men got hold of our crokonole board, starting in at -ten in the morning and playing without a stop until ten at night. And -they can play well, too; better than we can. We found that they were -playing for tobacco, am! that in the house of a half-way missionary -outfit who have just completed a chapel for the regeneration of the -natives! A previously-prepared quid of tobacco, which may have done -service as the stake for other games in the past, was enjoyed by the -winner of each game, until he in turn was defeated, when the quid -reverted to the original winner, and so on back and forth all day. - -[Illustration: Native Visitors.] - -The Indians seldom spit out the tobacco juice, but swallow it. They -seem to have cast-iron stomachs. When they smoke, they draw the smoke -into their lungs and retain it several seconds before exhaling. I -have many times watched an Indian inhale a great puff of smoke, but -I have never seen it return again. Whether they swallow it, as they -seem to do, or what becomes of it, I do not know. The women and even -little children all smoke. I saw a funny sight last summer down near -the Mission, and only regret that the camera was not along. A little -"kid" about four years old, without a stitch of clothing on, except -an officer's old cap, was strutting around the camp with an immense -corn-cob pipe in his mouth, and he knew how to smoke, too. The -question is, where did he get the pipe? - -At noon yesterday there were six or eight Eskimo men and one woman -sitting around in the cabin, and as usual at meal-time C. C. gave -them something to eat. Among the other viands were some beans and a -bowl of gravy. This gravy had been made from the juice of fried bear -meat, but it did not have a shred of the meat in it. C. C. passed -around this varied mess in bowls to the natives. They began to eat -with relish, when one of the men suddenly demanded of C. C. in a -stern voice whether there was any bear in the "cow-cow" (food). - -C. C. said at first there was not, but the Indian tasted it again and -looked suspiciously at C. C. who suddenly remembered the bear juice -and admitted there was "a little." The woman at once threw down her -food and the men fell to talking earnestly. They said that bear meat -would kill a woman if she ate it, but it was perfectly safe for men. -It is awful to think of; how we might have been held up for murder in -that desolate land, and hung by a raw-hide rope to the dome of the -Arctic Circle. It is a fact that this woman died two weeks afterward. -The natives hold many superstitions as to when and what to eat. No -Indian woman was allowed to do any sewing in the village yesterday -because there was a man very sick in one of the igloos. Should they -dare to sew it might cause his death. - -It is half-past seven now, and C. C. has got up and is starting the -breakfast. It is beginning to be quite light outside and I will go -out and examine my traps before breakfast. - -[Illustration: Entrance to Native Igloo.] - -Sunday. Nov. 13.--The wind has blown from the north constantly for -two days and is increasing. The doctor and the boys are not back -either, so they must have stopped at some camp on the way down. They -are wise to do that. I went out on the river awhile this evening, and -could scarcely stand up against the wind. And the sand was blowing -in clouds across the ice from the opposite side of the river. It has -been at even zero all day. In spite of the bad weather there was a -large attendance at church this morning, there being thirty-two white -men present. There were two from "Ambler City." thirty-six miles up -the Kowak, and two or three from the Jesse Lou Camp twelve miles -below us, while nearly all the Hanson boys came up. Those from up -the river came down on skates yesterday and spent the night at the -Guardian Camp, four miles above us. They had seen nothing of the -doctor and his party. Services were held in the new chapel for the -first time. And it was a great success; the chapel, I mean. The room -was comfortably filled and was quite warm. A great blazing fire in -the stone fireplace on one side made it cheerfully warm, and a great -square opening in the roof, covered with an almost transparent walrus -gut skin, admitted plenty of light. The service consisted mainly of -familiar hymns, accompanied by the orchestra. The orchestra consists -of the autoharp, played by C. C., the clarionet by Lyman of the Iowa -Camp, the banjo by Harry Reynolds, and the violin by Normandin of the -Hanson Camp. The music is fine, too. It alone is a big attraction -for men up in this country, as very few thought of bringing musical -instruments. C. C. made a short talk, and so did Mr. Dozier of the -Hanson Camp. After the regular service a social hour was spent. This -was the first religious meeting since leaving the States, for several -of the men. It is very nice. I think, to have these Sunday meetings, -if only for the social enjoyment. Rumor has come to us by way of the -Yukon and Koyukuk that the Spanish war is at an end, and that the -Philippines and Cuba are free. How we would like to know the details! -But alas! by the time we do get them they will be as stale as last -year's gingerbread. - -Nine men accepted our invitation for dinner, and our house might be -said to be full. C. C. had prepared for such an emergency, and a big -roast of bear with stuffing, fried venison and pies without limit -made a feast that everyone enjoyed. We are all "prodigal sons," the -only difference being that we are having our "fatted calf" all the -way along. Two of the men declared that this was the first time they -had eaten pie since leaving home. There is nothing like pie to bring -a fellow to his home senses. - -Those who have visited all the camps on the Kowak, say that ours is -the largest and most comfortable house on the river. I think this -is the case but we are not the only ones who enjoy its comforts and -hospitality. - -I do not expect we shall have so large an attendance again at Sunday -services, for to-morrow ten of the Iowa boys, our nearest neighbors, -start with heavily loaded sleds to get as far as possible toward the -Koyukuk before the snow comes. Others are talking of starting soon, -and if more favorable news comes we may all skip out. I would not -hesitate a moment to go now if we could be sure as to the snowfall. -We have no snowshoes, and it would be disastrous to be snowed in for -several months in some desolate place with limited provisions. - -Yesterday I made a hood out of a canvas flour sack to be put on -outside of my wool hood which mother knit, and it will keep out a -good deal of wind. I also put a heavy canvas lining over my woolen -mittens and darned several pairs of socks. That is the first time I -have done any mending since leaving home. Perhaps there is no time in -a fellow's life when affectionate remembrance of his human sisters so -comes to him as when his garments need repairing. Bless them!--the -sisters and mothers, not the garments. - -Last week an Indian brought in another bear, a larger one than the -Hunt River bear, and we traded for a hind quarter, about forty -pounds. The flesh is rather strong, but we eat it with relish. C. C. -has the promise of the hide. - -Yesterday there was great activity in sled building. Brown's sled is -nearly done. Chenetto, a young Eskimo, worked for us most of the day -lashing the pieces together. He is an expert. Luckily I traded for a -large quantity of walrus-hide string at Cape Prince of Wales. It is -about the only material strong enough to lash sleds together. - -Last week we nearly all shaved our beards off, which greatly improves -the looks of most of us. That was not the cause of their removal. -The ice forms in one's moustache and beard in chunks, and is very -disagreeable and inconvenient to carry about. C. C. had a specially -fine beard and it became him. Mine was long on the chin with rather -silky burnsides, and the boys then called me Si Pumpkins. I then -shaved off my moustache and all but the long, straggling chin -whiskers, and they called me Deacon Greentree. But now I am plain -"Joe" again, and they tell me I shall never attempt another beard at -risk of disgracing the camp. We have a pair of grocer's scales with -our hundreds of other things, and weigh ourselves at times. My weight -is 148 pounds as against 127 when I left home last April. This proves -that a trip to the Arctics is favorable to health and avoirdupois. - -[Illustration: The Leaning Tree that Marked our Camp.] - -By the way, I saw my first nuggets to-day. "Hard-luck Jim," one of -the men from Ambler City, had three small gold nuggets, But they were -not taken on the Kowak, alas! They came from Cook's Inlet. - -The "Flying Dutchman" gave us a diagram of the Kowak River, with the -camps and distances as he judged them when skating up the river. I -will record them, beginning at Holtham Inlet. It may be years hence -that some other prospecting parties will wend their way into these -parts, and, seeing our deserted villages, pause in wonder at the -lesson they teach. The first camp is forty miles from the mouth of -the Kowak, the Buckeye Camp; then thirty-five miles and the Orphans' -House; one-half mile and Sproud's Camp; nine miles. Riley Wreck; nine -miles. Faulkenberg Camp; one mile. Lower Kotzebue Camp; twelve miles, -Indian Camp; twenty miles, Jesse Lou Camp; twelve miles, Sunnyside; -one-half mile. Lower Hanson Camp; three miles, Lower Penelope Camp -(our own) and Lower Iowa Camp; four miles, Guardian Camp; thirty -miles, Ambler City; three miles, Upper Hanson Camp; fifty miles, -Mulkey's Landing; four miles, Camp Riley; four miles, Agnes Boyd -Camp; ten miles, Upper Iowa Camp; two miles, Kogoluktuk River, on -which, about six miles from the mouth, are the Upper Penelope Camp -(our boys) and river boat "Helen"; ten miles, Stony Camp; one and -one-half miles, Upper Kotzebue Camp and Kate Sudden gulch; three -miles, Farnsworth Camp; three miles, Nugget Camp; eight miles, -Upper Guardian Camp; five miles, Davenport Camp; five miles, Leslie -D. Camp; eight miles, Ralston Camp; two miles, Par River, Captain -Green's Camp. From this point there are camps on to the Reed River, -seventy-five miles further up the Kowak, but the "Flying Dutchman" -did not go farther than the Par River. He reports eight hundred men -in winter quarters on the Kowak alone. Thus is this desolate Kowak -country peopled with expectant gold seekers, where a year ago a white -man's track in the snow was a thing unknown. And what will be the -result? Time alone, with the assistance of my note-book, shall record -it. And here come the boys, but the doctor's face is not jubilant. - -[Illustration: Starting for the Koyukuk.] - - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - -Nov. 15. 1898.--The boys returned last night very weary. They gave us -the news much as the "Flying Dutchman" had. Six of our Upper Penelope -boys have started for the Koyukuk with four months' provisions. They -are Miller. Foote, Alec, Stevenson, Shafer and Casey. They carry -eighteen hundred pounds on two sleds, three men to each sled. Shaul -has gone to the Pick River, where "good indications" are reported. -That leaves Wilson, McCullough and Farrar at the Upper Camp. Dr. -Coffin has little faith in the news. He fears it is an unfounded -rumor like many another. Moreover our doctor thinks it foolhardy -and dangerous to start on such a trip, and he is anxious about the -boys who have gone. None of them have had any experience with cold -weather, being California boys. Casey, in fact, was never outside -of Los Angeles county, until this trip, and none of the crowd are -dressed for severe weather. They have but little fur clothing. -However, timber covers most of the country they will cross, and they -will, of course, put up a cabin if necessary. You couldn't entice -the doctor out on such a trip for all the gold in Alaska. It ranged -down to thirty-five degrees below zero while he and the boys were -out, and they camped several nights, although at all the camps on the -river hospitality reigned. The doctor had one finger frozen. He says -he did not suspect it was nipped until he warmed his hands over the -camp fire. It is very easy to be frozen without knowing it, even with -the thermometer only thirty-five degrees below. But what about sixty -below zero? - -News has come to us that hundreds of other men are waiting to get to -Kotzebue at the earliest possible moment. The gold-hunters up the -river are mostly doing nothing, waiting for spring to open so they -can go home. A few are sinking shafts in favorable localities, but as -yet without success, though there are some "indications," whatever -these are. It is a great undertaking to dig a hole in frozen ground. -Fires are built and kept burning for some time and then removed, -and the thawed dirt and gravel taken out. This process is repeated -again and again, and the result is dreadfully slow. Frozen ground -is tougher than rock to dig in. McCullough. Wilson and Farrar are -starting such a hole at their camp. - -Our enthusiasm about the new strike on the Koyukuk is subsiding. We -sing no more impromptu songs. But we have six men in that direction, -and if they are fortunate enough to get through they will send two -men back for provisions. - -Meanwhile I am collecting chickadees and redpolls. A couple or three -of our leading men, who shall be nameless in this connection, are -homesick. Yes, blue. They will be seen in Southern California as soon -as they can crawl out of the Kowak country on their hands and knees. -Now, watch and see who they are. - -Three of our neighbors started up the river yesterday with a load -of eleven hundred pounds on a sled. They started on the smooth ice -all right, but five miles north the sand has covered the ice clear -across the river. They were stuck there and, after struggling over -the sand for a few hours, gave it up and returned. The Iowa boys have -not started yet, but are spending more time in making good sleds -and fixing skates on their runners. If they start at all, which I -doubt, they will certainly have better success than others. Dr. -Coffin declares he is going to stay by and in our good, warm cabin -the rest of the winter. He is quite pessimistic to-night. He predicts -much suffering this winter. He found in his recent travels that open -fireplaces are a failure. Cabins heated by them are cold. There is -too much draft and the temperature cools off quickly when the fire -dies down. We have two stoves, and water never freezes over in the -cabin. - -Nov. 18.--We just had a dreadful catastrophe. C. C. had set his keg -of yeast on the rafters above the stove to keep warm and do its -"work." Harry Reynolds had some poles near by across the rafters. -The latter gentleman is at work on his new sled and, repairing one -of the poles, reached for it rather hastily. As a result the yeast -keg turned over. The doctor was sitting beneath, calmly reading some -good book, when nearly the entire contents, a gallon of sour yeast, -poured on to his unprotected head and down his neck, and spread -itself out as if to shield him from any other danger. What a sight, -it is impossible for me to portray. Not content with deluging the -poor medico, the stuff slopped over everything in the vicinity of two -or three yards. Several of us had a dose, but none was so seriously -affected as the doctor, who is even now at work on his clothes with -warm water and a sponge. The smell of sour dough permeates the -atmosphere. Brown remarks that it reminds him of the extremely sour -odor which filled the cabin of the "Penelope" the first night out -from San Francisco. - -For my part I think it convenient to have these little -interruptions--when they fall on another man's head. It livens things -up. - -[Illustration: Scaffold Burial.] - -One or two other events have served to liven us up. Last night one -of the natives at the Indian village died. It was what we expected, -for he has been very sick for a week with pneumonia. This morning at -daylight we noticed a smoke across the river and I walked over to -investigate the cause. I regretted finding the obsequities closed -and the four natives who had officiated just leaving. They had taken -the dead man and all his personal belongings over to the bank of the -river opposite the village, to a little knoll, where they built a -platform on some poles leaned against each other for support. The -body was wrapped in tent cloth and laid on this platform, which -was about five feet above the ground--as high as the men could -conveniently reach. After this the whole was firmly lashed together -with walrus thong, so the winds and the dogs cannot tear it down. By -the side of the scaffold the dead man's sled was laid upside down, -and hung on the willows around were all the personal belongings of -the deceased. He was "well-to-do," and these amounted to considerable -as the Eskimos valued them. There were two nice reindeer skins, his -clothes, mittens, muckluks, handkerchief, tin cup, etc. It seemed -too bad to see those two deerskins left to decay in the weather, -when the dead man's relatives are in sore need, but this is the -invariable custom of these people. No worse than what occurs among -Christians, when all available and unavailable funds are used to -defray the expenses of an ostentatious funeral, leaving the family in -destitution. - -Joe Jury and Jack Messing, two of the Hanson Camp boys, spent the day -with us and we had a big dinner. This "having company" disturbs the -monotony of so much "prospecting," as we are doing these days. - -Nov. 20, Sunday, 6 p. m.--To-day has been a very enjoyable one at -this camp on the Kowak. In fact every day is. The Hanson boys were -all up for Sunday services. There were also two men from the Jesse -Lou Camp, fifteen miles below us, who are visiting the Hanson Camp. -The latter have invited our whole crowd down for Thanksgiving dinner -next Thursday. We look forward to a "big spread." for this camp is -abundantly supplied with luxuries in the food line, as I can testify, -having taken dinner with them twice already. They are well-to-do, -educated men, full of spontaneous hilarity, and a great boon to the -Penelope Camp. Solsbury is a correspondent of the San Jose "Mercury." -He is a lawyer and of course a good talker. He tells stories by the -hour. - -This afternoon he got started from some cause--a predetermined one. I -presume--and talked for two hours. He resembles the newspaper cuts of -Mark Twain. It is very entertaining when he tells of his experience -in lumbering in the Sierras. His own boys say that he talks so -incessantly that they beg him to quit before they get tired of his -wit or confiscate it entirely. Everyone grows tiresome to his fellows -on a trip like this; it could not be otherwise. Constant association -for months brings out a man's faults and traits of character so -plainly that those which are of little note glare like tiger's eyes -in the dark, and his company becomes disagreeable, living as we do -in a little cabin, and looking in each other's faces if we take -a stroll, to keep watch for frost bites. It is better to be in a -large company than in a small crowd, so one can vary his personal -reflections. - -Jack Messing is a man one likes to meet. He is a German by birth and -the most generous of men by nature. His great fault is generosity, -a vice seldom met with in my remembrance, and the boys make him -the butt of dozens of jokes. He would give away the last stitch of -clothing he owns should a man ask him. He gives the Eskimos all -sorts of things and feeds them whenever he can, which is all the -time, for these natives know a friend and are faithful to him. He -has previously worn a full beard, but to-day he stalked into church -with his face shaven clean excepting a long fringe of whiskers left -in a circle from ear to ear around under his chin. He wore a belt and -pistol, and had a big tin star on his left coat lapel and carried a -"she-la-ly." He looked exactly like an Irish policeman, only with -the usual recognized attributes of the latter highly accentuated. He -stated in Irish dialect that he was after the thief who had stolen a -pail of water from a certain camp down the river. As this allusion -was in reference to a well-known occurrence of a week ago, it was -very disastrous to the serious feeling which should prevail at a -religious meeting, and it was some time before the congregation could -settle down to the business in hand. - -This afternoon we had a regular concert. The violin, autoharp and -banjo make fine harmony in this noiseless atmosphere, and we were -soon expressing our feelings in jumping and dancing. Two pairs of -bones rattled to such of the music as was appropriate, and it was no -dull time in the Penelope Camp. Clyde took the pictures of the crowd. -I say this afternoon, but I mean to-day: it is light for only about -six hours, and at high noon the sun scarcely peeps above the hills -to the southward. It appears to be sundown at noon, and the colors of -sky and landscape are beautiful. - -We have had our first snow, only an inch, but enough to whiten the -landscape until the next wind, that is booked for a circus, whisks -it all into the hollows and then covers it up with sand, giving it a -sharp rap and bidding it "stay there." - -This morning we saw a very beautiful mirage. The mountains and trees -down the river from us were reflected in the sky above, upside down. -Then for another fine display we have the aurora. Last night it -appeared in the form of a great bow reaching nearly to the zenith. It -consisted of many colored scintillating rays, which brightened and -then almost disappeared, only to reappear in different form as if -they had left the stage to change their costume. The aurora appears -in different form each night. And there is the beautiful moonlight. -The moon is above the horizon always now. It reverses the order of -the sun and shines all day in winter, scarcely appearing in summer. - -How the time flies, to me at least! Before we know it. Spring will -tap at the door. The unbearable monotony of an Arctic winter, which -some travelers dwell upon so desolately, is unknown to us so far, and -I for one will never know it. During the past few weeks I have read. -So far have devoured "Last Days of Pompeii." "In His Steps," "Opening -of a Chestnut Burr," "The Honorable Peter Sterling," and "Etidorpha." -I spent two weeks upon the latter and think it is a wonderful -book, coming upon my thoughts here in the Arctics like a great -semi-scientific visitor. There are more books in the neighborhood -than I could read in two winters. - -I have been given a new name--"Chickadee Joe." At the Hanson Camp -they call me "Little Joe," to distinguish me from "Big Joe." We are -very familiar with one another and change very suddenly from a highly -intellectual crowd to one of stirring juvenility. We had such an -unexpected romp the other day. There was about an inch of snow out -on the smooth ice, and it was snowing great flakes still. Three of -our boys were playing snowball with several of the Eskimo children, -and washing each other's faces and slipping down all over the ice. -Two Eskimo "belles" joined us, Kalhak and Aggi-chuck, and they did -not hesitate to give us a return snowball or a face full of the same. -They were strong, too, and several times I found myself sprawling on -the ice and covered with snow, to the great amusement of everyone. -After all that may be said of this strange people, they derive a -sort of very human satisfaction from their cold and narrow life, and -I shall always think of them as finding some happiness in the long -winter along with the aurora and the moonlight. - -[Illustration: After the Ball.] - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - -Nov. 25.--To-day we are resting and slowly recovering from -yesterday's "spree." It was the most gratifying Thanksgiving, as far -as the gastronomic and social celebrations are considered, that I -have experienced. At eleven o'clock in the morning our "Penelope" -crowd of nine were marshaled into line out on the ice, and marched -three miles down to the Hanson Camp. Harry Reynolds was elected -captain, and he bore a streamer of red, white and blue. We were all -dressed exactly alike in our brown Mackinaw suits, sealskin muckluks -and hoods. Our appearance was picturesque, and we regretted that -there were so few spectators to review us. We admired ourselves. When -we reached the first of the Hanson cabins, which are built within a -short distance of each other in a spruce forest on a hillside, we -lined up and sang "Marching Through Georgia" and other patriotic -airs. We have only recently heard of the defeat of Spain, so were -necessarily in harmony with the songs we sang. - -After breaking ranks we were divided among the cabins for the day's -entertainment. Cabin No. 1 is occupied by Joe Jury. Normandin, -Jack Messing and Solsbury, and these gentlemen invited C. C. -Reynolds, Clyde Baldwin, Rivers and myself. We felt the honor of our -invitation, for they had been before styled the "Aristocracy of the -Kowak." - -After the "Penelope" crowd was apportioned, each division became -the guests of the cabin to which it was assigned. Until about three -o'clock our company sat quietly engaged in conversation. Meanwhile -one could scarcely believe that a state dinner was in process of -preparation, and that in the same room in which we were sitting. -Solsbury was cook, and what appeared at his touch was marvelous, -considering that the cabin was short on culinary utensils and he must -"potter" over a little sheet-iron stove. - -At three o'clock the table was ready and we sat down to it, eight -of us. We were seated opposite our hosts--Rivers opposite Solsbury; -C. C, Normandin: Clyde. Jack Messing: and I opposite Joe Jury (Big -Joe and Little Joe), in the order named. At each plate was an -"Arctictically" executed menu--a section of birch, one of the logs -of our hosts' cabin: thus literally were we the guests of the house. -This in itself was a very appropriate memento of Thanksgiving on the -Kowak. - -On one side of the plaque was written indelibly the menu. In one -corner was a sketch of the cabin. On the opposite we later wrote our -names, alternately, in order as we sat at table. Here is a partial -statement of the menu: - - Split pea soup. Wafers. - Roast ptarmigan. Jelly. - Turkey pot-pie. - Sweet potato. Baked potato. Sweet corn. - Sago pudding. - Mince pie. Jelly tarts. Olives. Pickles. - Coffee. Cocoa. - -This spread was one hardly to be expected in the wilds of the -Arctics; though, as I have said, the Hanson Camp is never lacking in -luxuries. Toward the end toasts were proposed and speeches made. My -toast was to the ptarmigan, "The Turkey of the Kowak." - -[Illustration: Our Big Haul of Ptarmigan.] - -We were two hours and a half at the table, and I hesitate to say -that some of us, myself included, had eaten more than was for our -intellectual good, and we were glad to throw ourselves on the beds -which bordered the dining-room. For the next two hours we rested and -gradually revived. Meanwhile our hosts entertained us in original -style. One of the jokes was as follows: A pot was set in one corner -and in it was placed a small spruce branch. Then Joe Jury sat down -behind this combination and picked a tune from a string which -was stretched on a small wooden block. The translation of this -performance, as we were informed, was, "After dinner the orchestra -dispensed sweet music from behind potted plants." After we had -enjoyed hours of fun, all the guests were summoned from all the -cabins and crowded into ours. Several speeches followed, by Solsbury, -Dr. Coffin. C. C. Reynolds. Jury. Normandin and others. Then came -more jokes. - -At last the party broke up, and, after three cheers for the Hanson -boys, we marched home in the bright Arctic moonlight, in the order -we had come. Thus ended the first Thanksgiving ever celebrated on -the mighty Kowak. On our return home we found the house had not -been burglarized--another proof that we were not in the limits of -civilization. - -And here we are, spending the winter in ease and luxury, while our -friends at home are "remembering us in their prayers," and imagining -us in all sorts of peril, with danger of overwork, amid privation -and hardship. The fact is, we haven't done a stroke of work worth -mentioning, when we had expected to be digging out the precious -nuggets. In which condition are we the happier or best off? I prefer -the situation as it is. What is gold anyway? It is the "root of all -evil," according to a misquotation, and, conversely, I believe the -less money a person has, the happier life he leads. Anyway it is good -policy for us to advance this doctrine until we strike something. It -tends to keep us content. - -Nov. 28.--The doctor and I have been out hunting. We directed our -course down through the sand-dunes on this side of the river, and -had the best luck so far with the ptarmigan. We got eighteen with -twenty-four shots, which beats all records, as the birds are shy -and, on account of their thick coat, extremely hard to kill. We -stalked them among the hillocks, finding them feeding in the grass -or in the thickets of dwarf willows which grow in the low places. We -kept together and when we had spotted a flock we crept up behind the -nearest dune, often getting quite close before alarming them. I got -three at one pot-shot. They are hard to see on the snow, but where -the sand is bare or with a background of bushes they are conspicuous. -I had one vexatious accident. We spotted some birds on the opposite -side of the lake and crept around the margin on the ice, hidden -by bushes until we were within a few yards. I had two ptarmigan -beautifully lined up and was just pushing the trigger, when my feet -slipped from under me and my gun went off into the air. Before I -could recover myself the ptarmigan were also up in the air. The ice -is very slippery where the snow is blown off, as the sand driven -over it by the north wind keeps it polished and prevents the hoar -frost from forming on it. The doctor found a muskrat frozen to death -near its hole. It fell to my mammal collection. I also caught a gray -meadow mouse alive, as it was crossing a little pond. It is but my -second. The burrows and runways of the little red-backed mouse are -common in the woods and meadows. My steel traps have caught nothing -but jays so far. I am sorry to catch the jays, for I do not disturb -them near home, hoping to get their eggs next spring. I shall have -ptarmigan to skin for several days now and so make recompense for my -recent idleness. I can only work by daylight, which lasts but about -three hours now,--that is, light enough for me to work at my table. -The sun scarcely climbed above the horizon to-day. Clyde took the -doctor's and my photos to-day with our big haul of ptarmigan. - - -Yesterday there was a fair attendance at church. Services were -held in our cabin, as the meeting-house fireplace fell in. It will -probably not be used again soon, as it is too cold to mix clay to -mend the breach. Twenty-nine degrees below zero, and one has to be -careful to keep ears and hands covered. - -"Uncle Jimmy" (Mr. Wyse) gave me a fatherly talking to for skinning -ptarmigan on Sunday. Hitherto I have used any time available for -skinning birds, but yesterday, after a long argument and discussion, -I yielded for the winter. Uncle Jimmy argued that I couldn't fill in -all the time there is on week-days, and even if I don't see a reason -for not working on Sunday, I should "consider the feelings of those -who do." He is a nice old Scotchman, and I like him. - -I have just finished reading "Hugh Wynne." The doctor brought home -some numbers of "Appleton's Science Monthly" from the Hanson Camp, -also some back numbers of "Harper's," and I am reading articles in -them. - -The doctor. Brownie. Uncle Jimmy and I had a hot argument to-day on -capital punishment, also one on "how a young student should begin to -specialize in any branch of study." I always take the side opposite -the majority, so I can have more opportunity for argument. We have -good and instructive times in this employment. Wednesday evening -next is the first of a series of literary entertainments to be held -weekly. Solsbury will lecture on "The Practical Value of Art." - -Dec. 3.--This morning Harry Cox and Harry Reynolds started with -Indian Tom up the Kowak. Tom was our guide on our first steamer trip -across Holtham Inlet last summer, and he has been camping in the -delta until now. He is on his way to the Par River, where his winter -igloo is located. The Harrys took advantage of company to go along -with Tom. They took a sled and two dogs, with just enough outfit -to supply them on the trip. Their object is to visit the various -camps up the river and find out all the news, especially in regard -to the strike at the head of the Koyukuk. An Indian by the name of -Shackle-belly visited us yesterday. He has just come down from the -Kalamute River, about one hundred and fifty miles above us, and -brings exciting news. He speaks pretty good English for a native. He -said that he had heard that on the Alashook white men were as thick -as mosquitoes and digging out "plenty gold." These men had come up -the Koyukuk last summer from the Yukon with lots of steam launches. -They could not get further up than one hundred and fifty miles below -the place where the gold is found on the Alashook River, on account -of the rapids, so they had to wait and sled up. Shackle-belly also -said that most of the men above us on the Kowak had already started -over. - -[Illustration: Indian Tom and Family.] - -It will be very dangerous for these men now at twenty-nine degrees -below zero, and it must grow much colder with more wind, up on those -barren mountain passes between the heads of the Kowak and Alashook. -The Indian said one man had already frozen to death on the trail -this side, and one had fallen through a hole in the ice, getting out -all right, but before he could build a fire he had frozen through. -Several are frost-bitten. We are anxious about our six boys who -started from the Upper Penelope Camp over three weeks ago. However, -if they met with no accidents, they must be over into the valley of -the Alashook by this time, where the natives tell us there is plenty -of large timber. Tom tells us that seven Indians have died down the -river, and that white men are very sick. Tom has his family with -him and of course all his belongings, which seldom amount to much, -according to our estimation of values, among these natives. He has -two sleds and six dogs. He and his family spent the night with us. We -spread tents for them on the floor. We have not been affected with -vermin so far, and take precautions. - -[Illustration: Windings of Squirrel River.] - -Last Wednesday was the first evening of the proposed literary -society. Solsbury was to have been the lecturer of the night, but was -sick and couldn't come. However, the society elected officers--Joseph -Grinnell as president, and Dr. Coffin secretary. Then the doctor -conducted a question box. Some of the questions asked and written on -slips of paper, with the name of the man who was to answer, were very -serious; others were humorous. - -By the way, I must record a new pie which has fallen to the lot of -the Penelope Camp. C. C. makes dozens of pie. We have pie every meal -and between meals, and if a fellow gets hungry in the night when the -rest are snoring, there is pie for his satisfaction. An old Eskimo -woman from the village brought C. C. a pail of what she considered a -rare delicacy, a gift expressive of her motherly consideration. It -was a concoction of wild cranberries and seal oil. - -It was suggestive to the natural bent of the cook's mind, and he made -a pie of the stuff. We ate every bit of it--that is, three of us did; -the rest wouldn't touch it. I ate my share, and must say that if you -overlook the strong seal flavor, it would not be considered bad. I -learned to eat cranberry done in oil when I was near Sitka three -years ago. It is too extravagant a dish to be eaten every day, and -the natives keep it, American-wise, "for company." - -Last Tuesday the wind blew a gale at seventeen degrees below zero, -and I thought I would see what I could stand. I wear now a union -suit of fleece-lined underwear, a pair of blanket-lined canvas -trousers, and a heavy wool shirt, with a pair of thin wool socks and -a pair of lumber-man's socks inside my muckluks. I put on a leather -corduroy coat and my heavy wool hood, with a scarf around my neck -and across my face. I was gone, down among the sand dunes, about an -hour and a half. The wind had an unmolested sweep there and I had -good opportunity to test my clothes. It did not penetrate my clothing -a particle, and I was perfectly warm all except my face. The wind -pierced like a sword right through my scarf and wool hood. When I -got home the lobe of my left ear was frost-bitten and also the same -side of my nose. Both sections of my countenance are now very sore -and are peeling off. I should have worn a canvas hood outside of my -wool hood. Canvas keeps the wind out better than anything else. Furs -are the best clothing in this country, but are very scarce among -these poor Indians, and but few of our company have any. Again we -regret not having traded for furs at Cape Prince of Wales. But we do -not suffer by any means. We have clothing enough to last for years. -We are not so fortunate in the provision line. However, should we -strike it rich enough, lying around in our warm cabin, to make it pay -another winter, it will be an easy matter to send the "Penelope" back -to San Francisco for another load. The "Penelope"! What will be her -fate when the ice breaks up in the spring no one can foretell. At the -mercy of the unlimited and savage ice of Bering Sea, a frail little -craft, no longer than the frontage of a city lot. We do not think or -speak of the "Penelope" very often. We may be orphans in the spring. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - -Dec. 8.--The beautiful snow has come at last and to-day it is six -inches deep on the level. The trees are loaded and the river and -meadows are painfully white. We must get out our snow-glasses, of -which we have an abundance for all. Our condition seems to resemble -that of the Swiss Family Robinson. We find everything we desire -in our cabin, if not in our "wreck." We have no wreck. The north -wind has been blowing a gale for days, which at last amounted to a -blizzard. I went across the river in the teeth of the wind, just -crawling along on the slippery ice, but the fun was in coming back. I -had but to keep my balance and the wind did the rest. - -We have been having some strange experiences with the Eskimos the -past week, which has introduced us to more of their interesting -superstitions. - -Sunday evening, while we were all engaged in reading, or quiet talk, -we were suddenly startled by a loud groaning outside. As the gruesome -sound grew nearer we scarcely knew what to expect, but were prepared -to give relief to sick or wounded human beings of whatever type. We -rushed to the door, to find Charley, the Indian medicine man from the -native village above. We thought at first that he was but practicing -his arts, but when he was brought in groaning and sobbing we realized -that he was really very sick, and the doctor pronounced it pneumonia. -Soon Charley's family followed, and one of the little children was -nearly frozen. The wind was blowing a gale, and Charley told us that -he had come down from his igloo, four miles. - -A few days before one of his wives had died, she who had eaten the -bear gravy, and, according to Indian superstition that a person -who lives in a house after another has died in it will surely die -himself, he had moved out of his warm dugout into a tent. Of course -it was very cold in the tent, and Sunday morning one of his little -girls died as the result of exposure. So Charley could no longer -live in either the tent or the igloo, and he was thrown out into the -pitiless storm with his other wife and three remaining children. -They went to a neighboring igloo, but a native would as soon commit -suicide as shelter any of the family of the deceased in his house or -enter the house where one has died. As a last resort Charley came to -our cabin, and no doubt the whole family would have died but for this. - -Of course we warmed and fed all of them, and the doctor attended -upon Charley, who was too sick to object to another medicine man's -treatment. Several of us then went over to the church cabin and, by -stopping the fireplace and putting up a camp stove, we made it a -comfortable hospital. Charley is there now. Not a single Indian has -been inside our cabin since Charley was here. - -[Illustration: Indian Charley and Family.] - -They say if they come in they will surely "mucky" (die). We are very -glad they have taken this course, as heretofore they have been too -numerous altogether. It would be to our advantage to keep one sick -man with us. We have tried to induce a couple of young men to cut -wood for Charley, but they declare that also is dangerous. Charley's -wife dare not touch an axe for the same reason, so we have to chop -their wood ourselves. Wonder if we will any of us be alive in the -spring after such dangers. None of the Indians give them any food, so -we are attending to that matter. We are doing our best to get them -to overcome these inhuman and exasperating superstitions. They can -plainly see that we do not hesitate to care for the sick or the dead. - -[Illustration: A Funeral Cortege.] - -Tuesday night the patient was so sick the doctor thought he could -not live without especial care, so we decided to watch with him. -Rivers and I stayed with him from one to five o'clock in the early -morning. And it was an odd experience. We had Charley bolstered up on -two benches placed side by side near the stove. We kept a hot water -bag on his chest and occasionally made him take ptarmigan broth with -soaked hardtack. Poor fellow! had he been fed on such a diet while -well and able to appreciate it, he might well have been surprised. -But he was too near death to appreciate what we were doing. He would -have spasms of coughing and loud groaning, catching his breath and -rolling his eyes. Then he would fall back with his head lying limply -over his shoulder, breathing short and with scarcely perceptible -pulse. We thought he was about to die, but the climax passed and he -revived. While we were taking care of him his wife slept, for she -had probably been without rest for days. She now waits on him and -is very attentive to his wants, and does the best she knows how, -being generally more intelligent than most of the women. They all -have little ingenuity in caring for the sick, and this is one reason -why they die. Could these natives be persuaded to have a few of -their women educated as nurses, how much less would be the winter -mortality! Had we time we could do this, but it would take years, -and women beside. We have no women. But here are, or will be, all -the abandoned cabins on the Kowak by spring. What an opening for the -mission-inclined! Free hospitals and free beds such as they are. And -they are not mean. There are chairs, too, and carpeted floors. - -In the meantime Charley's dead child, as we supposed, had been -sole tenant of the igloo which had been vacated. This fact gave a -sudden joy to C. C, the undertaker. As if by instinct he scented -a resurrection of his neglected business, and it was with little -difficulty that he persuaded Charley to let him give it a Christian -burial. C. C. and Joe Jury went up to see about it, and found that -the ceremonies had already been performed and the corpse was resting -on one of the usual scaffolds near the igloo. This did not matter. -They made a coffin of boards, sawed at our mill, and brought the -corpse down to Penelope Camp, Jury as coroner and C. C. as funeral -director. The hearse was a sled and the black horses a couple of -dogs. Of course Charley was too sick to attend the funeral services, -but his woman came and watched proceedings. She objected to nothing -in any way when told that was the way white men buried their dead. -But she insisted on putting some dishes and half a sack of flour in -the grave before it was filled. The flour C. C. had brought down from -the igloo, intending it for the family to eat. But they couldn't -think of consigning a dead child to the unknown future without -supplying it with sufficient means of support until it should reach -its uncertain destination. So twenty-five pounds of good flour was -interred with the coffin. C. C. intended this burial to teach the -natives better methods than their own superstitious ways, but I for -one doubt the propriety of burial in the ground in this country, -as in summer the earth is saturated and covered with water, and in -winter it is frozen to granite. As it turned out, the funeral was -not a very extraordinary object lesson, for not a single Eskimo -attended, save the woman mentioned, though they were especially asked -to come. I am not sure that the funeral director was not guilty of -making a "grave" mistake in the closing ceremonies. He had just -been assuring the woman mourner that the dead would need no further -food or clothing in the "beyond" where she had now gone, when it -occurred to him that a single demonstration of sorrowful affection -might be appropriate. Just before filling the grave he had all the -by-standers (gold-hunters on the Kowak) throw in each a spruce bough, -and the woman did likewise. I suppose he chose the spruce in place of -impossible flowers, but the solitary mourner must have considered the -act an inconsistent one after the remarks which had been made. - -The doctor and I felt some uneasiness as to a special feature of the -funeral and accordingly acted. Now I have no doubt my friend was no -stranger to the scheme, but I was; nevertheless I went about my duty -with the approval of my immature conscience. We went out as if to -take a stroll, as was our frequent custom, and dug into the grave, -removing the buried sack of flour. We very carefully filled in the -grave and left all as it had been before. The snow which was falling -at the time soon covered our footprints (whereupon might be written -a poem), and no Eskimo will ever suspect our subtle deed. We put the -flour into a new clean sack and presented it to Charley as a mutual -gift. This was Kowak philanthropy, though, if the natives had found -us out, we might have had to suffer. The doctor and I congratulate -ourselves on doing a real good deed in a naughty world. - -Yesterday Charley's father came down from the village to pay his -son a visit, but he evidently did not intend to enter the cabin, -carrying on his conversation from without, very much as white folks -do in cases of scarlet fever or other infectious disease. Some of us -happened to be near by chopping wood, and we tried to induce him to -go in. Finally the woman came out and built a fire, putting on green -spruce twigs to make a dense smoke. The old man then stooped over the -smudge, spreading a blanket over and around himself, thus confining -the smoke about his body for several minutes. He then apparently -considered himself immune from any evil and went into the cabin -without further hesitation. This process of disinfection is certainly -reasonable, only it was applied at the wrong end of affairs. He is a -very old man and of no help about the patient, so we have an added -charge. - -Dec, 12, Monday.--I shot three redpolls this morning over in the -willows. I then tried to utilize our brief stint of daylight to skin -them by, but was obliged to resort to the dim light of a candle after -all. We get no more sunshine here in the valley. At noon only the -snowy mountain peaks are illuminated by straggling rays from the -truant sun. The landscape is often magnificent. I stood on the bank -several minutes at noon admiring the views. The northern horizon was -deep blue, and, contrasted with it, were the snow-covered ranges, -which were tinged a rich pink. The sky above was slightly overcast, -as if covered by a delicate pink veil. Dark purple shadows crossed -the zenith, but toward the sun all was bright bellow and gold. The -snow-covered river and meadows beyond were so white that they seemed -to have a blue tint. Then the spruce forests with their ragged -outlines looked dark and gloomy as they were sketched against the -mountains or horizon. I never imagined such color effects as are -displayed every day here. I do not think that the brightest colors on -an artist's palette could exaggerate the brilliant hues of the sky -during our short period of twilight. We are looking for a tenant for -our cabin. Let some club of artists engage it for a season and they -will be in ecstasy. - -A change in the weather! This morning a southeast wind sprang up and -sent the thermometer to twenty-three degrees above zero. At this hour -yesterday it was thirty-four degrees below. Although nine degrees -below freezing, the air feels balmy as it strikes our faces. This is -the first day in two months that I have taken a walk across the river -in an ordinary hat. I could not go far, as the snow is badly drifted -now. I saw a few redpolls and one raven. Rivers and Uncle Jimmy dug a -new water-hole to-day. The ice is three and one-half feet thick. - -In the cabin all is quiet as I write. The only light is my little -candle on the dining-table. Uncle Jimmy is asleep, with his head -on his crossed hands, on the opposite side of the table. C. C. is -sitting in an arm-chair at the further end of the room probably -thinking of home. Brownie and Clyde went over to one of the Iowa -camps a few hours ago. Some of the boys are restless and delight in -visiting. - -Dr. Coffin got word from Dr Gleaves to go down to the Hanson Camp. A -man on his way up the river from one of the lower camps has frozen -his toes, and they are in such a condition that amputation is -necessary. Dr. Coffin wanted me to go with him to assist, thinking: -me cool and nervy, but I declined. If they were nice, fresh, sound -members, nothing would delight me better than to render assistance, -but I have a repugnance to dead, decaying flesh. For this and other -reasons I never would skin a bird that had died of itself, though I -saw it fly against a telegraph wire. - -I am studying hard. I am at work on my physiology, and also -committing to memory a "Glossary of Scientific Terms." The boys -ridicule me for reading the dictionary so much, saying that the -subject is changed too often to make it profitable reading. I am -also teaching German to Rivers and Brownie. They are a very willing -class. Other times I am studying bacteriology with the doctor. We -are a literary and scientific crowd. Our latest argument last night -was "How to Dispose of the City Slums." The doctor reads portions of -Josiah Strong's "New Era" to us and then we discuss it. The Literary -Society of the Kowak met Wednesday evening with a good attendance. -"The Practical Value of Art" was thoroughly expounded by Solsbury of -the Hanson Camp, though he required two hours to do it and some of -the art-less ones grew sleepy. - -[Illustration: Native Family at Home.] - -Indian Charley is nearly well now, and, like a white man in such -circumstances, is appreciative of all we have done for him. He -assures us that his woman shall sew for us, and that he himself will -bring us fish when the spring opens. We hope he will continue in a -thankful frame of mind. Another native died at the Hanson Camp of -pneumonia. Dr. Gleaves kept him in his own cabin for days but failed -to restore him, as the man was too far gone when he saw him. The -relatives of the dead man had heard how C. C. buried Charley's little -girl in a box, and insisted that they, too, have a "cabloona" (white -man's burial). Again was our undertaker alert and in his "native -element," so to speak, and superintended the making of a coffin, and -the various other incidentals of the funeral. The friends of the -deceased brought a large number of articles, including a new gun, -spy-glasses, parkas, skins, etc., to be interred with the body, but -were finally dissuaded from thus destroying everything, save the -dead man's pipe and tobacco pouch. These they believed he could by -no means get along without in the next world. Before the Indian died -he begged several times of Dr. Gleaves to kill him with a knife, and -thus aid him in parting from his own misery. We are assured that the -native medicine men sometimes do this, and at first glance there -seems a humane side to the argument. On second thought, however, it -is clear that the duty of a physician is to allay suffering, while -life is naturally prolonged, leaving it to some other One to name the -date of release. We hear of a woman sick at the village. Surely the -Eskimos will soon be a race of the past unless civilization comes to -their aid. - -Dec. 19.--It has blown a gale for six days and we have scarcely been -out of the house in that time. The bright, warm cabin is preferable. -We only hear the roar of the wind outside, and occasionally from the -corners comes a cold draught of air dumbly whistling through the -moss-crowded chinks. The two Harrys got back Wednesday night after -a very hard trip. They only got twenty miles beyond Ambler City -before they were caught by the snow, which shortly was more than a -foot in depth and they could not travel. Harry R. induced a severe -attack of rheumatism and could walk only with difficulty. He came -near freezing to death. He wanted to lie down and sleep, and Cox had -all he could do to force him on until they reached a cabin. Harry -R. must have suffered terribly, for he is as thin and pale as any -ghost I ever met. Although they went only about fifty miles up the -river, they heard rumors from beyond which knock all the props from -under our recent hopes. Our boys of the upper camp who started for -the Allashook have returned, not being able to get over the pass on -account of the deep snow. Moreover it is rumored that the golden -reports from the Allashook were invented by a couple of men, one of -whom has eight hundred pounds of provisions over there to sell, and -the other wants to be recorder of claims. - -There are other reports of strikes up the river, but I for one shall -pay no heed, nor will I write about them. Several people have been -up from camps below, trying to get loads of provisions. They are -having a hard time. Several have returned and two are waiting for -better weather. It is really dangerous traveling now. More than one -man has nearly lost his life. One came to our cabin with his face -frozen, and did not know it until we told him. It is useless to think -of traveling in this biting cold. And here comes a pounding on our -woodshed door. Half a dozen of us run to open it, glad that we have -shelter for any wanderer. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - -Dec. 20.--A man has just come up from the Orphans' Home with bad -news. Poor Uncle S. is lost and probably frozen to death. He left the -Orphans' Home to walk to the Mission a month ago and has not been -seen since, although several parties have come up from the Sound. His -tracks were seen by the "Flying Dutchman" on one of the forks of the -Kowak in the delta. Uncle S. had our letters, so these will never -reach their destination and the home folks will be disappointed. -Possibly a whole year with no news from the gold-hunters of the -Arctics. I suppose the body will be found when the snow melts in the -spring. Uncle S. was a nice old Quaker, speaking "thee" and "thou" -habitually. He spent the night with us on his way down and was very -entertaining. He played a game of whist with us in the evening, -and it was very odd and amusing to hear such expressions as, "Now, -Joseph, play thy hand properly." "Is this my trick or thine?" "Did -thee play thy ace?" etc. Uncle Jimmy, who doesn't believe in card -games, tried to start an argument with Uncle S., but the latter only -said very quietly, "One can play music with good or evil intentions; -so I think with a simple game of whist." I never saw Mr. S. before, -and it is a strange incident up here in the Arctics, to hear him -tell me about my father, who, in his youth, paid some considerable -devotion to a relative of his, giving me many pleasant reminiscences -of both my father's and mother's families. These old-time memories, -told in the dim candlelight of the peopled cabin, interested our -whole company, and we all took to calling our guest "Uncle S.", as -much out of respect to the man as to a possible relationship which -might have existed between himself and me. But he is gone now and we -shall look forward to paying him suitable ceremonies in the spring. -Our undertaker is preparing to embalm the body when discovered. He -was a Friend of Some note from Ohio, who drifted up here, like the -rest of us "world's people," after gold. - -Our camp is in quite a bustle this week preparing for Christmas. We -have invited the Hanson boys up to dinner with us, and we are getting -ready for a big time. The Saturday before Christmas we are to have -a tree and feed all the natives in the country. The doctor has been -at work on scrap picture books for the children, finding no end of -beautiful chromes on the tin cans about the respective camps, besides -other lithographs and steel engravings from various sources. Art -is taking on shape and form and expression under the magic of the -doctor's touch in a way surprising to both him and us. - -The literary society last Wednesday was the best so far. Thies, of -the Los Angeles Camp, read a paper on Theosophy. It was entitled, -"The Home of Contentment," and was very reasonable from his point of -view, and well received by all. The doctor gave a short talk on "How -to Care for a Frost Bite." This was of great practical value to all -present. - -Dec. 21.--Forty-six degrees below zero to-day, and I, for the fun of -it, walked down to the Hanson Camp. It was not at all uncomfortable, -nothing like what it is when the wind blows, at ten degrees below -zero. Normandin, of the San Jose cabin, has rigged up a turning -lathe, using a grindstone as the driving wheel. He is turning out all -sorts of things from birch and spruce. He has sent up a quantity of -dolls' heads and tops for the Eskimo Christmas tree. One of the Los -Angeles boys is carving faces on the dolls' heads, to distinguish -which is the front side of the head, the image being of the same -proportions all around. He gives them almond eyes and flat noses just -like the native babies. - -Now that the first snow has appeared, the natives are busy at -snowshoes, and several of our boys are experimenting in the same -line. The Eskimos are very expert in this kind of work, and their -snowshoes are models of symmetry and neatness. - -[Illustration: Near-by Neighbors.] - -The aurora is very brilliant some nights now, but there is no reason -visible why, on other nights just as favorable, as far as we can -discover, there is none at all. In this extremely cold weather, and -especially during a sudden change of temperature, the ice in the -river cracks and groans terrifically. This morning, as I was walking -down to the Hanson Camp, the phenomena were very much in evidence, -so much so that it was gruesome to a lonely body. At one place when -I stepped off from a drift of packed snow on to the bare ice, there -came a series of thundering reports like cannon shots, and then -a succession of sharp reports and creaks and other awful sounds, -that finally died away into the dead silence of Arctic darkness. -Such combination of sounds, together with a reasonable amount of -imagination sure to accompany them, is startling, especially If it -is quite dark and one is all alone. Sometimes a faint crack will -start others like it all around, and these in turn will give rise to -a rapid fusillade extending hundreds of yards up and down the river. -And there are the crunch and crackle of the dry snow under one's -muckluks, emitting various modulations of sound, from the sharp bark -of a dog to the squeak of a mouse. One has company even in solitude, -and there can be no solitude in the world like this in the Arctics. -Oh, it is all so enjoyable and fascinating to me! It is like reading -a book on a new subject, for one interested in Nature to visit this -country. I fear I will be sorry to leave it when the time comes. -However, two years may change one's views of many things. - -Dec. 29.--Four men from the Orphans' Home on their way up the river, -spent last night with us, and were interesting company. One of the -men, a Mr. Thornton, knows several people of Seattle and Sitka whom I -know. He was at Sitka and Mt. St. Elias with the Prince Luigi party -in 1897, and has an article in the "Overland Monthly" just out. He -claims to have seen the Silent City, a mirage exactly resembling a -distant view of a large city. Several have seen it, and one man, -a photographer whom I met at Juneau two years ago, claims to have -a photograph of it. I have heard it intimated that the photo is -a fake. Prof. Jordan's article on the Silent City in the March, -1898, number of "Popular Science Monthly" is to the point. Thornton -says there is no doubt about photos and cuts of the mirage being -unauthentic, but he affirms that he and five men of the Prince Luigi -party saw it just as he describes it. We had a big discussion on -mirages last night. Yesterday at the literary, my paper was on the -familiar topic, "What Birds Eat." and, though rather lengthy, was -well received. I think our men would be interested in almost any -paper that discussed the subject of eating. Dr. Gleaves lectured a -week ago on the "Cruise of the Revenue Cutter 'Bear' in 1893." He was -surgeon on board of her during that year. He is now president of the -Hanson crowd,--more properly speaking, "The Kotzebue Mercantile and -Trading Company,"--just as we of the "Penelope" gang are the "Long -Beach, Alaska, Mining and Trading Company." How bulky and pompous -that sounds! If we do not find a bit of gold while we are here, we -shall have the satisfaction of presuming ourselves to be one of the -best equipped companies on the Kowak, and are looked up to very much -as the Vanderbilts are in New York. Sense of such distinction as -tills tends to increase the size of our heads, which are really very -large indeed, when considered in their covering of wool hood, canvas -hood, scarf, etc. We are advised to enjoy these sensations while it -is feasible, as doubtless when we reach the wharf at San Francisco or -San Pedro on our return trip we may have to foot it home just like -common tramps, or prodigal sons who have wasted their substance and -that of our grub-stakers in "riotous living." - -On Christmas, day of all days, didn't we have a "spread"! C. C. -worked at it for a month beforehand and even stayed up all the night -previous cooking and compounding. I suppose he will have forty pages -about it in his diary, for although he worked until he was exhausted, -he declares it the happiest occasion we have had. And the results of -all our labor were really immense. - -[Illustration: Christmas Dinner.] - -The ten Hanson boys and a Mr. Van Dyke dined with us. The table was -twenty feet long, covered with a snow-white cloth, and lighted by two -candelabra of eight candles each. - -These beautiful articles of use and ornament were made by Clyde from -a many branched birch, and the effect in lighting our large cabin was -brilliant. The menu was gotten up by Rivers. It was a sketch of the -landscape around our cabin artistically done in India ink on thin -leaves of birch bark, and would have graced any table in New York. - -I never sat at a table in New York, but I just know they never had a -handsomer menu card. The toasts were classic, and included a poem by -Dr. Coffin, which was also of a classical character. I cannot refrain -from quoting one or two stanzas of the latter, on account of their -sentiment as well as literary merit. The verses were well received -and delivered with startling effect. - - Now just a few things I would like to say - To make us remember this Christmas Day-- - It isn't very often you dine with a Coffin, - When the cook and baker is an undertaker. - - Now and again on a bill of choice fare - You find such a dish as roasted black bear; - But outside of the valley of the Kowak river - You will not eat pate de poisson de liver.[A] - - Or white Touste bake and Ukluk roast - Are rarely served without Antic frost. - On these hot mince pies there have been no flies, - For our pastry-maker is an undertaker, etc., etc. - - Now on your memories we would make a mark - With a plain, simple piece of brown birch bark; - On one side a picture of the place we are at. - And a list of the stuff that we ate as we sat. - -[Footnote A: Pie of fish liver.] - -This is by no means the whole of the poem, but it is enough to -intimate its character. It is Christmas and we are ice-bound. The day -of all the days in a man's life, when he would naturally be blue, -has been mutually cheered by those who, but for this digression, -would have suffered under the circumstances. The feast lasted for -two hours, and was followed by songs and instrumental music. Cox and -I were waiters, Harry Reynolds served and C. C. cooked. After the -banquet we four were waited on by four of the Hanson boys, who took -everything into their own hands. Normandin established himself as -cook and Joe Jury as head waiter, with Hays and Jack Messing under -his charge. They made a combination so witty and droll in everything -they did that we could scarcely eat for a time. We finally succeeded -all too well for our subsequent comfort. Fun and frolic and candies -and nuts occupied attention for an hour, the party at last breaking -up with the singing of several church hymns. - -On Saturday before Christmas the natives were all gathered in, as -well as the whites, and we served the former a "big feed," afterwards -exhibiting a brilliant Christmas tree and the venerable Santa Claus. -Everyone took part in contributing toys and so forth to the children. -There were dolls, tops, whistles, jumping-jacks, cooky people, nuts, -candy, etc. It would take a whole note book to describe this part of -the Christmas festivities on the Kowak--how the old people awkwardly -tried to use knives and forks in eating, and how Santa Claus was -greeted, and the wooden dolls, and all the rest. Some of the dolls -fell to our boys. I am sure they reminded us of home. After the -tree the natives danced, the girls in a graceful manner, and the -boys representing fights or something of the kind, all the while -being accompanied by a beating of tin cans, stamping and monotonous -singing. There were thirty Indians and as many white men present. - -[Illustration: At High Noon.] - -Jan. 7, 1899.--Last week we were surprised by what we took at first -for an Arctic apparition. Uncle S., whom everyone had given up for -dead, arrived, accompanied by the missionaries from Cape Blossom. -Mr. and Mrs. Samms. They had come up with dog sledges. Uncle S. had -brought mail from St. Michaels, and the load was very heavy, there -being two hundred and fifty pounds of mail alone. He had but nine -dogs, and left most of the mail at Kotzebue Camp, where the snow -was too deep to travel further with it. He and Mr. and Mrs. Samms -pushed on up here, and, as all were pretty tired, several of the -boys volunteered to go down to the Kotzebue Camp, which is sixty -miles below us, for the mail and other sled. I was a volunteer, along -with several from the Hanson Camp as well as of this, as we were -all anxious to get the delayed mail. But a few hours later, when we -began to realize what a hard trip it would be, everyone backed down -until only Cox and I were left. These boys stood on the burning deck, -and made believe they didn't care, especially as that brave little -missionary woman had just made a trip over the same road of more than -two hundred miles and on foot. - -That same day Joe Cogan and Sam Colclough came along on their way to -the Allashook. They had a team of eight dogs, but, after inquiring -of all the natives, they found they could obtain no more dog's food, -nor is there any along the river above here. So as they were going -to start back down the next day. Cox and I decided to go with them. -I did not relish the anticipation of the trip at all, and, now that -it is over, I must say that it is the hardest journey I ever hope to -make. We returned last night, having been on foot for seven days, -making one hundred and twenty miles of very, very hard walking. - -We had five dogs from here; these, with Cogan's, made thirteen. We -loaded our blankets and clothing on Cogan's sled and hitched up -the thirteen dogs to it in a line. The sled was a very heavy one -and the load resembled it. It went all right until we got on some -sand-bars about a mile below the Hanson Camp, and there our trouble -began. The snow was light and the heavy runners cut through to the -gravel beneath, making hard pulling. We were trying our best to get -over when the sled struck a rock, and, in dragging it off, two of -the standards broke off at the runner. Of course we had to return, -leaving the load cached on the trail. At the Hanson Camp we got some -wire and necessary tools, and by this time it was afternoon. The San -Jose crew of the Hanson Camp must have us stop for dinner, and it was -a fine one, too, with the immediate future ahead of us. Had we not -been thus refreshed. I do not think we could have made the Jesse Lou -Camp that night. Colclough declared our bad luck was all on account -of the dogs, thirteen in number, so we borrowed two more and also -another sled. The dogs pull much better in small teams and we now -made good time. They carry their bushy tails curled up gracefully -over their backs, and trot along the trail with ears erect and -pointed forward, the very picture of lively animation. It was three -o'clock by the time we got our second start and darkness was soon -upon us. Besides, it was cloudy, with no moon, and snow was falling. -Light snow had fallen to the depth of four or five inches, obscuring -the old trail so that we soon lost it. And then our fun began. It is -twelve miles from the Hanson to the Jesse Lou Camp, and it was not -until ten o'clock that we came around the bluff at the latter camp. -The snow-covered river bed was a uniform blank whiteness, bordered by -the dark line of willows and spruces, and whoever was in the lead had -nothing to guide him but kept as near as he could between the banks. - -Occasionally the sleds would meet and grapple with snags and rocks or -sand-bars with little snow on them, and then we would have to strike -off at right angles. Just before we reached our destination for the -night, we got into a large field of broken ice in which we floundered -about for half an hour. The ice was in plates or narrow strips an -inch or less in thickness, all up on edge, jammed thus when the river -had first frozen over. These sharp plates mostly leaned obliquely up -stream and stuck out of the snow as high as two feet, with gaps and -holes between. We had a dreadful time. Our sled tipped over and the -dogs dragged it on its side for several yards before we could stop -them and fix the pack again. And then our shins! We could not see a -thing, and sometimes a step would be down into a hole and the next -step on top of a sharp edge of ice. If I fell down once I did twenty -times. Cox had never worn muckluks before, and it was particularly -hard on his feet. By the time we got to camp we were tired enough to -lie down anywhere, whether we froze to death or not. - -We were warmly welcomed at the first of the three Jesse Lou cabins -which we struck, and they got us a hot supper and fixed our beds in -true Kowak hospitality. It was New Year's Eve. 1899, before we got to -bed. - -By nine the next morning we were off again. The next halt was an -Indian igloo thirty miles below. Before we had gone a third of the -way my legs began to pain me so that I walked with difficulty. One of -them was strained by a fall on the ice the night before, and I was in -absolute torture all day. It was my first real suffering. Finally, -when we had gone about fifteen miles, as it was getting dark and we -did not care for a repetition of the previous night's experience, -we made camp. Cogan had a tent and stove, and his companion was a -"rustler." A patch of snow was soon scraped off and the tent put -up. But it took a long time to heat the interior above the freezing -point. Too much of the exterior gets into a tent. - -It was forty degrees below zero that night and the next day. -After one has perspired a good deal during the day he soon chills -when he stops, if he forgets to put on more clothes. I had a big -reindeer parka and also a pair of huge deerskin mittens. Without the -latter I should surely have frozen my hands. The dogs ate up Cox's -leather-covered mittens, and I gave him one of my pairs. The pair -I wore got soaked with sweat and then froze on my hands as hard as -a rock. If I had not happened to have the deerskin mitts to change -with, I might have lost a few of my extra fingers. Cox did blister -his. Colclough got up some hot flapjacks and bacon and we were -filled. I slept in the parka and kept pretty warm. The rest occupied -the big deerskin sleeping bag, which is the only safe bed in an -Arctic camp. - -[Illustration: The Jesse Lou Camp.] - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - -Our midwinter trip for the mail was a chapter in our icy history -never to be forgotten. We made the next fifteen miles to the Indian -Igloo in good time. Cox and I slept in the igloo, but the rest in the -tent. The fourth day we made the last fifteen miles to the Kotzebue -Camp, where the sled and mail had been left. Besides the mail, there -were two pipes about twenty feet long and weighing perhaps one -hundred pounds each. Then there were our blankets and extra clothes -and dog food, bringing the return load up to four hundred pounds for -our six dogs. Cogan and Colclough went on down to the Riley wreck -with all their belongings, so we hail no stove or tent for the return -trip, trusting to good weather in making the long stretches. There -is only one cabin at the Kotzebue Camp, and this a very small one, -but we managed to find room to lie down somewhere. We also made a big -stew of canned beef, dessicated potatoes and onions, with lots of -pepper and sage. It was good and stimulating, and upon this we based -our courage. It was a fine base. We found the load pretty heavy for -the dogs, one of which wasn't of much account, and our progress was -slow. Where the snow was deep and the trail rough we had to help some -ourselves. An animal with four feet has much advantage over a human -with but two. We made the return trip in three days, fifteen miles -from the Kotzebue Camp to the igloo, thirty miles from the igloo to -the Jesse Lou, and fifteen miles from there to the Penelope Camp, -making one hundred and twenty miles in seven days. By the third day -out my limbs became accustomed to the hard walking and my lameness -disappeared. The thirty-mile stretch we made in twelve hours, -starting from the igloo before daylight. The northern lights were not -visible during our return trip, although previously one could read by -them. The cold was not excessive nor did we meet with any terrible -accidents, but I will record that I have had enough of winter travel -in the Arctics. I am of the same mind as Hard-luck Jimmy, who, after -attempting to reach the site of the "latest strike" and getting -caught out in a snowstorm, said in his slow, comprehensive manner of -speech: "It would take all the men in Ambler City with a great big -hawser to pull me away from my warm cabin and grub again this winter." - -[Illustration: Winter Travelers.] - -The thirty-mile stretch of our road was long. So change of scenery -for entertainment. When we got around one bend in the river it was -just to plod along until we got to the next. It took three hours for -us to cover one straight piece of trail. We ate nothing that day but -a little frozen bread. We had nothing to cook, and there was no time -to cook it if we had, and no dishes or stove. But we were served to a -fine supper at the Jesse Lou. The dogs did finely that day. We gave -them a feed in the morning before starting. Usually dogs are fed but -once a day, at night, and then only about one pound of frozen or -dried fish to the animal. At night we let the dogs loose and, if at a -village, they forage around for scraps of anything, which of course -are extra rations. They steal any provisions left unprotected. They -ate Cox's leather mittens, the thongs on Cogan's snowshoes, and a -leather gun case. One night they broke into the "grub-box." and got -away with everything in it, including a sack of oatmeal and a side -of bacon. Owing to their preference for leather, we had to sleep on -the harnesses and with our heads on the "grub-box." These Eskimo dogs -look just like wolves, but are docile and often playful. They do not -bark like civilized dogs, but snarl and growl. Some nights they would -howl in concert for hours at a time, making a weird sensation in the -silence of the ice. - -In sledding, the dogs are tied by their harness strings alternately -to a straight lead-rope. One dog is "leader," and he is the most -intelligent of the pack. During the trip Cox walked about a -hundred yards ahead of the lead dog, now and then turning back and -whistling or calling. I walked behind, keeping the sled straight, -and untangling the team when it got mixed up. Each dog has a name, -and his character qualities become as well known to us as those of -a human individual. Ours were named Emik, Kubuck, Auboon, Nanuk and -Tingle. One day Emik jumped on to the dog that was not pulling his -share and gave him a sound whipping. The whole pack joined in and I -had to beat them off with a club. - -Ordinary animals would have died of broken bones, but it took a -"sore chastisement" to bring these dogs to their senses. Fights are -frequent and always mean two or three minutes' delay In untangling -the lines. The harnesses are provided with swivels or else the lines -would soon become hopelessly twisted. - -The two pipes I mentioned as part of the load, stuck out behind some -eight feet beyond the sled, and many a time when the dogs slowed up -suddenly my shins would come in contact with the sharp iron in a -painfully emphatic manner. The crunching of the dry snow under the -sled runners is a combination of sounds in which one can but imagine -he hears familiar voices, and one falls to day-dreaming as he plods -along, until he is surprised by running against the slacking sled or -stepping into a hole. - -The two nights we spent in the Eskimo igloo were interesting in -detail. On the way down I was so tired that I paid little attention -to anything, curling up and thankfully sleeping. On the return trip -we made the igloo just at dusk. The trail was poor and the snow deep -and the load heavy, so that we had made scarcely more than two miles -to the hour. When we got within sight of the igloo the dogs pricked -up their ears, as is their wont, and started forward at an increasing -gait. Dogs will sometimes smell a camp long before it comes into -view, and their quickened pace testifies to their hope of food. When -our team rushed up to the igloo, we followed at a trot behind, and -nearly all the inmates hurried out, curious to see us. These poor -people are very hospitable, and at once invited us inside. We did not -enter, however, until everything was attended to, for, after one has -straightened out to rest before a warm fire, it is very hard to get -up and crawl out again on stiffened limbs to attend to duties easier -performed before one settles down. The native boys helped us to untie -knots, and soon the dogs were loose, scurrying everywhere for bits of -anything devourable, and frequently having a savage fight over some -imaginary tidbit. Everything but the two iron pipes, which we trusted -the dogs would not eat, was deposited on the scaffold for the night. -This scaffold is a necessary feature of every igloo. It consists of a -platform of poles and boughs raised about eight feet above the ground -and supported on four posts. On this are stored all the fish, skins, -nets, harnesses, sleds, kyaks, and, in fact, every article not needed -for Immediate use in the igloo. - -[Illustration: Native Igloo, with Scaffold for Stores.] - -After the dogs were fed, we took a blanket apiece and crawled into -the igloo. We were motioned to a vacant place on one side, where we -stretched out as far as the limits of the room permitted. This igloo -was built like a Sioux wick-i-up. Long, slender poles are fastened -into the ground at one end, bent over and lashed with thongs on the -opposite side. These are planted about a foot apart all around, -until the whole completed frame is like an inverted hemisphere. -Over this are fastened thicknesses of spruce bark stripped from the -trees in sheets one or two feet wide and twice as long. At the top a -circular opening is left, a foot in diameter, for the exit of smoke. -The whole structure is covered and packed with six inches of snow, -which effectually keeps out every bit of wind and incidentally every -particle of fresh air, except what steals in through the smoke-hole -and door when they are open. The entrance is closed by several strips -of sail-cloth attached above and weighted, so that it always hangs -over the opening and completely covers it. When one enters he must -get down on his hands and knees and, lifting up a corner of this -canvas door, crawl through the passage. The door falls back into -its place behind. The passageway is so narrow and low that a large -man can with difficulty crawl through. The floor inside, with the -exception of a space around the fireplace, is carpeted with slender -willow saplings, laid parallel and fitted closely together, forming -a fairly good paving or heavy matting, sufficient to protect the -occupants from direct contact with the ground. A few old deerskins -are spread out where the elders sleep. The space on the opposite -side of the fireplace from the door is not occupied by anyone, -but is filled with cooking utensils, the water bucket with its -wooden dipper, carved wooden bowls, and birch bark baskets. In this -igloo--about twelve feet in diameter--fifteen people live almost all -the time, only going outside when they must for wood and water. No -books to read, no politics to discuss, no school to get ready for, -and no visiting to do. Once in this residence, we were allotted a -space next to the oldest man of the igloo. We were content with our -small lot, for we were tired and hungry. - -[Illustration: Getting Supper Under Omiak-puk.] - -The light was furnished from seal oil. A plate of this, with a pinch -of moss for a wick, furnished the light. The penetrating smell of -burning seal oil is very stifling, and a white man can hardly stand -it. Considering our distinguished character, these people dispensed -with the oil and lighted candles instead, which I suppose had been -obtained from the whites by trade. Our scanty grub-bag next claimed -our attention and, considering it good policy under the peculiar -circumstances, we distributed the remainder of the hardtack, which -had been reduced to crumbs, among our hosts, who watched our every -movement. We also had a little flour, but, as we had no means of -cooking it, we presented that also to the woman on the far side -of the igloo, who was apparently the mistress of ceremonies; for, -although three other women were in the house, she carried all the -water, chopped all the wood and prepared the meals. We made our -supper from a can of corned beef and a loaf of bread, baked for us -at the Kotzebue camp. Seeing our destitution, with true American -hospitality the woman before mentioned left the igloo and shortly -returned with a birch-bark basket about eighteen inches long by six -inches wide full of a frozen mass of blueberries. This was evidently -a "company dish," the best in her possession. She detached a large -chunk of the preserves and placed it in a frying pan over the -fire. As it melted into individual berries she stirred the mixture -constantly. After the mess was thoroughly melted she passed the pan -over to me, and, by the smell which arose, I was aware that the -blueberries were put up in seal oil, as a sort of salad, I suppose. -Cox declared his appetite lacked severity sufficient to tempt him to -even taste the compound, but I was hungry enough to eat anything, and -partly because I did not want to disappoint the motherly old woman, -who had taken all that trouble to treat us to the greatest luxury -possible, I ate with apparent relish. I did no more nor less than -hundreds of my people do at any civilized banquet or even a meal at -a friend's, when they pretend to like oysters or shrimps or anything -from sheer politeness, the which they thoroughly detest. I got away -with the entire panful, along with a slab of dried salmon given to -me by the old man. These kind people evidently looked upon me as a -good-natured, hungry little boy whom they enjoyed entertaining out of -their natural hospitality of heart. I have no doubt my mother will -long to grasp that old Eskimo woman's hand and possibly kiss her ugly -but kind features, for the sake of her goodness to her "wandering -boy." - -Truly the fish was not at all bad, and I secured a piece for my lunch -the next day. It proved to be just the thing, as I could chew it -while tramping along, and one does not need water to drink with it. -The native next to me in the igloo showed me how to strip the skin -from the piece of dried salmon and prepare it for eating. He held the -skin side over the fire until it began to crinkle and writhe. The -oil which it contains is thus melted and the dainty rendered more -toothsome. - -After our hunger was, with these native articles of food besides our -own bread and corned beef, sufficiently subdued, we stretched out as -far as possible in our limited space. Cox was soon asleep. We agreed -that in order to make the thirty miles next day it would be necessary -to start before daylight, as there was then a waning moon to light us -a little. Cox was especially impressed with this idea, and went to -sleep determined to wake up the minute the moon rose, which would be -about five in the morning. He had scarcely been asleep ten minutes, -and I had not dozed off yet, when he started up, and I had all I -could do to persuade him that the night had hardly begun. - -Later, and until we finally did start, he woke me several times and -would go out and look for the moon, which he was sure was behind the -schedule time. We could not see the trail until it did appear, so -each time he would return and drop to sleep again. This crazy conduct -on his part vexed me not a little, as I wanted to sleep, being -prevented by other disturbances besides his own. - -After we had eaten our supper and got settled down, the other people -ate theirs, which consisted entirely of dried salmon. This was eaten -raw, each mouthful being chewed for a long time. The young men say -that this kind of diet is what makes the Kowak-mitts (natives of the -Kowak valley) so strong. I must confess to the apparent truth of this -statement, for the whole house knows it when an Eskimo enters; that -is, if there hasn't been one around long enough to have allowed an -airing. Even the pretty girls are so fishy that a tenderfoot in this -land can scarcely endure their remote presence. The salmon is cured -during the summer and kept on scaffolds, being brought down only -as it is required for use. The old men soak it up in water a while -before eating it. - -Directly after their simple supper the natives began arranging -themselves in their proper nooks in any place where there was room -enough to lie down. The men and older women and all the children in -the igloo wore nothing but skin pants, being entirely naked from the -waist up. At night, however, they put on their skin parkas, as the -temperature in the room falls quickly when the fire goes out. When -all are ready, the woman of the household goes outside and covers -up the smoke-hole in the top of the house with an old skin, and -besides piles snow over it thickly so not a particle of cold can get -in. The fire in the center of the room has meanwhile been allowed -to burn down to a bed of coals, so there is no smoke or flame left. -In returning the woman also tightly closes the doorway. If any air -is getting in anywhere one can see the stream of dense vapor caused -by the extremely cold outside air striking the warm, moist air of -the interior. If the door is left the least bit ajar a stream of -this vapor is seen flowing along the floor straight into the fire. -If one's feet meet this current of cold they soon chill. After the -coals are heaped together and all other preparations for the night -completed, the light is extinguished and sleep reigns. For a while -after the igloo has been closed the air seems extremely hot and -stifling and the odors are terrific. In an hour or two the fire is -dead and the air cools off. - -My night's rest might have been quite sound but for certain -disturbances. I had just dozed off after being aroused by Coxie, when -one of the men began to sing some Eskimo ditty in a weird monotone. -He would drone it through and stop, and I would just be dropping off -to sleep when he would start it up again. He continued for fully half -an hour, and I was so thoroughly tried by it that I could have choked -the fellow. The natives all slept soundly and probably considered -it a lullaby. Another time I was awakened by the old man next to me -singing in a high, jerky voice. He got up, all the time singing, and -went over to the old woman, who was saying something to him. Then -followed a series of the most diabolical noises--hisses, swishes, -grunts, groans, guttural rattles and so forth. It hardly seemed -possible that some of these sounds could originate in a human throat, -but as they were without intermission. I suppose they did. This was -finally interrupted by a loud, ripping swish, as if something had -been forcibly torn up. All was then quiet, and the old man returned -and lay down next to me. I did not know but he would practice his -incantations upon me next, but my fears were groundless. During the -creepy performance it was pitch dark, and I could almost imagine we -were about to be sacrificed in some heathen rite. I asked one of the -young men what was the matter, and he told me that the woman had a -pain in her stomach, probably from swallowing her salmon in too much -haste, and the old man had cured her by driving the demon out. This -practice is like that I have heard my father say existed among the -Comanche Indians in the Southwest. - -At last, after one of his frequent observations. Coxie reported that -the moon was up. The candle was lighted and we soon had all our traps -out of the igloo. Our mitts, scarfs, socks, etc., had been hung up to -dry. The dryer one's clothes are, the warmer he keeps. Rain is not -necessary to dampness either, perspiration every walking moment being -free and persistent. We soon had the dogs hitched up, all but one, -Nanuk, who caused us considerable delay by running off into the brush -and hiding himself. Finally after several of the natives had helped, -he was secured and our pack arranged. - -[Illustration: The Departure.] - - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - -Camp Penelope, Jan. 10, 1899.--Yesterday morning Uncle S. and Samms -started on up the river with their dog sleds and mail. C. C. and Cox -went with them. They hope to reach the Upper Penelope Camp and learn -as much as they can of the outlook and the wish of the men as to -segregation in the spring. They will have no easy trip of it, but C. -C. seems to covet experience in winter traveling, and I think he will -be the recipient of it this time. - -When Cox and I got in with the mail, all the neighbors crowded into -our cabin and there was general excitement until the sacks were gone -through and the fate of each determined. Nearly everyone got letters. -The latest news was dated August 22, and we had full accounts as to -the probable closing of the war. I received six letters. Down at -Kotzebue Camp I opened only one of these, the one of the latest date, -and found it so bright and jolly that my spirits were at the highest -pitch all the way home. Moral: Folks at home, write cheery letters to -absent ones wherever they may be. The snow may be deep, and the dogs -may be mad, and the trail rough. - -We are beginning to talk about "going home." and of the probability -of our cold welcome among our town's folk, who will possibly ridicule -us as "fake gold-hunters," "prodigal sons," and all that. I was -reading an article in one of the magazines last night, proving that -an ambitious poor man nowadays has far more chances for success in -any line than a rich one, and that "extreme poverty does not debar -a man otherwise endowed, from entrance into the best society in the -land." This in America of course. So we are saying in concert, while -the latest news of gold fades into vapor, "Poverty is a blessing." -It's a comfort to look at it in that light anyway. But it does not -help some of our boys over the blues. Several put all they had into -this venture, and on their return are destined to start all over -again at day's work. I must own that I am myself the victim of some -reluctance to return with empty gold-pan, and the old story of -putting "gold into the fire and behold there came forth this calf" -comes to me. We may have sufficient supplies to keep us in Alaska -another year. - -Uncle S. is one man that is making a success. He charges fifty cents -for each letter or package he brings up the river. My bill would have -been six dollars at that rate, but of course my trip down more than -met that. The doctor got twenty-four letters and many papers. Don't -know whether he has settled his bill or not. Mrs. Samms is with us -until the return of Mr. Samms, which will be not less than three -weeks if the weather is good. It seems odd to have a lady in the -cabin, but she is very agreeable and we like her company. We modify -our usual reckless behavior and serve her in every possible way. - -She is teaching a class of children at the mission cabin. Mr. Samms -is on an errand to get a census of native population and to note the -condition of the Kowak Eskimos. There is likely to be a famine among -them before spring, as they have spent too much time in watching the -whites this year, neglecting to fish and hunt at the season. There -is now little game in the country, and by next winter they will be -destitute in clothing as well as food unless they receive help from -outside. - -Jan. 11, 6 a. m.--The doctor and I have just got out of bed, hours -before the usual time of rising. We think we can write better, or -read, early in the morning before everybody is up and story-telling -and making noises in the room. When we are all active it is difficult -to think. - -The north wind is blowing a gale again, and its steady roar through -the spruces outside, accompanied by the monotonous whisper or -undertone whistling down the stovepipe, gives one a lonesome, dreary -feeling. I almost shivered just now all on account of the sounds, -although there is a blazing fire in the heater and the whole cabin is -warm and comfortable. - -[Illustration: Some of Mrs. Samms' Pupils.] - -We have had no trouble in keeping warm. In the corners near the -ground there is always plenty of frost, and if one sits or stands -long in such a locality his feet get cold. But out in the room it is -always pleasant. We have not put in double windows, as we expected -to do, there being no need of them. The single large sheet of glass -in each window is all-sufficient, though the frost collects in very -thick layers on the inside. This is probably one reason why it is -so warm. We took out the window panes the other day and melted off -the ice. It was nearly two inches thick on the lower part. The panes -are over two feet square, and the frost work on them is beautiful to -look at. The designs are constantly changing. Sometimes great fern -fronds extend from the bottom clear to the top, and then another time -the pattern is small, like delicate moss. When it is thick one can -see cities and mountain crags and almost anything besides, if his -imagination is alert. - -The days are perceptibly longer now and yesterday sunlight touched -the tops of the trees near the cabin. But it will be many weeks -before the sun has sufficient effect to make any change in the -temperature. Mrs. Samms says that February is our coldest month. We -are getting along quite harmoniously in domestic affairs now. C. C.'s -term of office as culinary chief expired at Christmas, and Rivers was -elected to take his place, with myself as assistant. So I am back at -my old stand again. There's one thing certain--we shall have less -pies now. I think I shall be able to obtain a place as cook in a -restaurant when I go back to the States if nothing better turns up. -Our supply of some articles is getting short. We are going slow on -mush and sugar, and the flour will not last longer than April at the -rate we are using it now. However, our motto is to eat while we have -the means, and go without when it is gone. Of course there is plenty -in the "Penelope," if she is safe. We have a great deal of company at -meals. Everyone traveling on the river stops in, either for a single -meal or for the night. We like to be hospitable, and one has to be in -this country. Wherever our own boys have been, up or down the river, -they are treated royally at every camp, as I can personally testify. - -We do not feed the Indians any more at all, and it is better for -them. They have become so dependent upon the whites that they do not -work for themselves any more. When they might be fishing or trapping, -they are hanging around our cabins. They do not visit us as often now -as in the fall. Rivers and I send them outside whenever meal-time -comes, and they are beginning to learn. We must do this or suffer -ourselves from hunger in a late spring. - -Uncle S. reported that he found the "Penelope" in a safe place in a -small inlet in Escholtz Bay. We received letters from the captain and -Jett and Fancher. They have been on a sled trip up to the Buckland -River, but with no success. However, they are in good spirits, hoping -that something will be found before spring. Rumors reach us as to -"finds" on the Noatak River, but we do not pay the least attention to -them. The "Flying Dutchman" dropped in on us again yesterday. He is a -"rustler," and will make it pay under any circumstances. He has more -grit than all the rest of the men on the Kowak. He has a partner now -in carrying mail, and a sled with dogs. - -[Illustration: Come to Church.] - -Jan. 15. Sunday, 6 a. m.--I am up alone. The doctor is a great fellow -to lie in bed, excepting on rare occasions, when he is very smart. He -even takes his afternoon nap regularly, and then sleeps ten hours at -night. The wind is blowing at the same rate it has been going for a -week. One day it was a fearful storm. It blew so one could scarcely -stand up against it, and the snow and sand were driven along in -blinding blasts. - -We can easily see now how the hills and dunes on the south side of -the Kowak valley are formed. It blows with such force that all the -snow is taken off from the sand-bars, and all the loose sand as well, -and finally the coarse gravel is driven off on to the ice, where it -travels until it reaches the south bank of the river, where drifts -ten feet deep have been formed the last week. The natives tell us -that in two moons from this the wind will blow harder than ever, and -that it will be much colder. Yesterday we piled more sand and brush -around the north and east side of the house. The wind had carried -away a good deal of the original banking. The doctor was quite snowed -into his bed one morning. We couldn't find the place of entrance, but -it is now doubtless covered. - -Yesterday was washing-day for me personally. We do our washing one -at a time for reasons of necessity. I had a large wash, as a part of -it had been accumulating since August of last year. It is our habit -to put off this very disagreeable duty as long as we decently can. I -put in two faithful hours over the tub until my knuckles were sore -and my back so lame I could only with difficulty straighten myself. I -succeeded at last in "doing" ten pairs of socks, seven handkerchiefs, -three towels and a suit of underwear, besides other things. I can now -sympathize most heartily with the washerwoman of history. I have the -clothes drying on the rafters above the stovepipe. The union suit -is an awkward thing to handle in washing. I would rather tackle a -blanket. A blanket has not two arms and two legs to be continually in -the way. I could not wring it out very well, and after hanging it up -to dry it dripped for several hours, sprinkling anyone who ventured -under it. Uncle Jimmy sat down comfortably to read a good book, but -he chanced to be in the line of gravity, and a splash on top of his -bald head prompted him to address some words to me. It was only a few -days ago that Uncle Jimmy's washing was "out," and I frequently had -the edifying sensation of a sloppy, dripping drawers leg slapping me -in the face as I moved about the kitchen stove in my culinary duties. -We have to be patient and charitable when it is washing day, and -other days. I will say that our domestic life is not often marred by -so small a trifle as water dripping from a drawers leg. If we were -sensitive to little things we would find frequent opportunity for -grumbling. - -Jan. 23, 9 a. m.--Just got through with breakfast. Our menu is much -the same these days--corn-meal mush, biscuit or flapjacks, hash, -bacon, flour gravy and coffee. Kowak hash is a work of art, and is -deserving of especial mention. It is a sort of literary review of the -previous day's dishes. This morning it was simpler than usual, and -consisted of only split peas, corn-meal mush, bacon, rice, toasted -bread, salt-horse and beans, seasoned to taste. And yet the "beasts" -claim their appetite is impaired! Needn't have eaten up all the -luxuries the first thing. - -Several of the boys like to go out visiting the other camps in the -evening, and not get home till morning "or thereabouts." I am a "good -little boy," and go to bed at nine and get up at six. I have the -breakfast ready shortly after eight, and then the fun begins, getting -the boys up. They want to lie in bed till twelve, and Uncle Jimmy -joins us in making it so uncomfortable for them they prefer rising. - -Harry Reynolds is washing to-day. He has just discovered that he has -made a sad mistake. He dumped his bundle of clean socks into the tub -instead of the soiled ones. General laughter at his expense. But H. -wrings them out "dryly." He knows the laugh will not be on him next -washing day. - -The jolly missionary's wife is singing in my ear something about -"Darling Joe." Now, she thinks because she happens to be married that -I must be much younger than she--in fact "quite a lad." In point of -fact I am the older. It was my turn to shave yesterday, and I did so, -consequently my chin is smarting. It is an unnatural process, and I -think should be prohibited by act of congress. - -I have been reading "A Scientific Demonstration of the Future Life," -by Hudson. It interested me very much, and the doctor and I got into -many a warm argument over it. It is a strange fact that we never -argue upon subjects we agree upon. I always stick to my sharp point -and he to his. Our discussions are usually on some biological topic, -and the rest of the men do not know what we are talking about. One -night, after a long argument in which I would not yield a single -point when the doctor thought I ought, he wrote me the following - - -ODE. - - Mon ami, Joe, - A thing I know - Is, you are Joe, - Why this is so - I do not know; - But well I know - You _will_ be Joe, - Until you go - From earth below. - - But even so, - My young friend Joe, - Before you go - You'll _not_ be Joe, - (The same _I_ know) - For you will grow - Both old and slow. - And fall below - To what you'd grow - In things to know - Of what is so. - - On things you know - And say are _so_. - Hard winds will blow, - And light will grow, - And change them so - You will not know - That they are so. - - And then, by Joe, - You'll be more slow - To say you know - A thing is so. - 'Cause then you'll know - That what _was_ so - When you were Joe - May not be so - When you're not Joe; - And that _is_ so - Which was not so - When you were Joe - Down here below. - - I like you, Joe, - I'd have you know; - And that is so. - Because you're Joe. - And be it so. - Mon ami, Joe, - As to and fro - The world you go; - That which you know - Declare 'tis _so_; - And so _be_ Joe, - The Joe I know, - "Chickadee Joe." - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - -Jan. 23, 2 p. m.--I went out to look at the thermometer, when I -heard the cackling of ptarmigan the other side of the river. Harry -Reynolds and I armed ourselves and started out for game. We spotted -the flock in a willow thicket where the sun, which nowadays is just -at the horizon, had probably attracted them. Several of the birds -were perched on top of the bushes, and were very conspicuous against -the dark sky. We sneaked up to them and got a shot. Harry's gun got -choked with snow and missed fire. We followed up the birds and, -after two hours of hard tramping, I had four shots, securing three -ptarmigan. The walking was extremely difficult. The snow from the -tundras northward was deeply drifted along the willow thickets. It -was packed just hard enough on top so that at about every other step -it would sustain one's weight, but the alternate steps would break -through nearly to one's waist. In some places we fell and floundered, -and we considered our sport rather too well earned One of my cheeks -was frosted, but Harry brought it out all right by a vigorous rubbing -with snow. - -[Illustration: Grave Decorations.] - -It is too cold for hunting. I cannot shoot with gloves on, and -my bare fingers get burned by the cold steel of the hammers and -triggers. Harry had the doctor's Winchester repeating shot-gun -Although a fine gun in warm weather, it seems to get out of gear now. -My plain double-barreled Remington is the stand-by. I look at it and -it seems to say. "Wait till spring comes, Joe, and we'll get in our -work." - -The literary society is as interesting as at first. Last Wednesday -Joe Jury talked on the "Art of Printing." He is a printer by trade -and has quite a business in San Jose. The week before Jack Messing -told us about the Hawaiian Islands. He was there for two mouths -a year ago. Nearly all of us are in favor of sailing around and -visiting our new islands on the way home. It is only about two -thousand miles out of our way. Personally I would like to make a long -cruise and visit the Philippines and Ladrones. Several of the boys -are growing desperately homesick. Time drags for them, and they are -counting the days to next July when they can get out of the Kowak -Valley and start for home. I have overheard a couple of them planning -how they might even now go across country to St. Michaels, so as to -be ready for the first steamer in the spring. Enthusiasm is a myth. -It was less than a year ago that, "No matter what happens, we will -push on into the interior and explore the unknown mountains until we -strike gold." Now it is. "How soon can we get home?" Such is human -nature. - -Everyone is making snowshoes or getting the natives to make them. -I must get a pair as curiosities to send home. The natives do nice -work, and are improving their opportunities to get a good price. -They get three to five dollars worth of food or clothes for a pair -of muckluks. Snowshoes bring ten dollars. Indian Charley has made -the doctor a nice miniature sled and pair of snowshoes for treating -him when he was sick. Charley shows more gratitude and good-will -than any other of the natives. But he has some great ideas. Last -week he worked hard from daylight till dark in a cold wind clearing -away the trees and brush from his little child's grave. He cut -down everything clean between the grave and the river, saying this -was so "the Kowak-mitts traveling up and down the river" could -see his "mickaninie's" burial-place. He took the tree trunks and -poles and leaned them together over the grave, tepee fashion, so -the dogs and wolves cannot dig in. He left several of the taller -trees immediately surrounding the grave, and climbed to their tops, -trimming off the brandies as he came down. He then fastened flags to -these poles until he had fourteen up, with every prospect of more. -He used everything, such as sail-cloth, handkerchiefs and sacks. We -thought if he kept on he might have all the clothes he possessed -fluttering in the wind like a Monday morning wash, only the clothes -lines were perpendicular instead of horizontal. We remonstrated with -him, telling him the "cabloonas" never put flags over their graves; -but he Insisted that he wanted to make this spot conspicuous so that -everyone would notice it. The doctor thought of a scheme and Clyde -put it into operation. He made a windmill about four feet in diameter -and with a big fan. It was well made, and took Clyde two whole -days to finish. Charley was very much pleased with it, and it was -promptly lashed to the top of the tallest tree, whence resound its -mournful creaks whenever the wind blows. Charley wanted to know if -all cabloonas put wind-mills over the graves of their dead. Charley -is very ambitious to do exactly like a white man and yet, like many -another, he seems to think a disregard of native superstitions would -be disastrous. He asked us yesterday if he would die if he should -take some little pills the doctor gave him for some trifling ailment. -He said that some Kowak-mitts told him so. There is an old woman -in the middle igloo of the village who keeps these natives in such -ideas. The sooner she goes "mucky" (dead) the better it will be for -her people. About New Year's an old man at her igloo was very sick -and was expected to die. For fear of having him die in her igloo, and -thus, as she believed, render the house uninhabitable, she turned -him out into the extreme cold. His son stayed with him and made a -big fire. As soon as we found it out the nearest cabin took the sick -man in, and did all they could for him, although he died in a short -time. Women here have a harder life than can be imagined. A child is -never born in an igloo, but, no matter how cold the weather is, the -mother is driven out, not to return with her child until it is five -days old. There have been three such cases so far near us. The last -was during a ten-days' windstorm. The woman went alone back into as -sheltered a place as she could find in the woods, and made a screen -of spruce boughs to protect her from the storm. In front of this she -kept a small fire burning and there she remained with but little -clothing all the bitter days of her allotted time. An old woman -occasionally visited her and brought her food and wood. The baby -froze to death. - -[Illustration: Native Sweethearts.] - -[Illustration: Superstitious Old Woman.] - -Jan. 28.--Who should drop in on us night before last but three of our -boys from the upper camp. Miller Casey and Alec. They report everyone -in good health, but the gold outlook is altogether "nil." All the -reports have been run down and there is no encouragement offered -anywhere. The boys staked out fifteen claims in the districts which -showed "indications." Holes have been dug, but in a few feet they -strike water and can go no further. This report is for the late fall. -C. C. and Mr. Samms had just arrived when the boys left. Uncle S. -and Samms had seven out of their nine dogs killed by poison in some -unexplained way at one of the camps. They bought five more at the -Riley Camp for fifty dollars. Our dog Tingle was among the killed. C. -C. and Samms intended to go twenty-five miles further to a village -at the Par River. This party will remain with us until the return -of C. C. They came down "just to kill time." They say it is pretty -monotonous at the other camp. They carried a pack of about thirty -pounds each and were very tired. Foote started with them, but gave -up half way down. Casey and Miller, as well as Alec, are jolly good -fellows and we hope they will stay with us a good while. Our grub -is getting rather low. The boys up the river had the larger share. -It will probably carry them through to July. But I think, unless we -can borrow from neighbors, a delegation of us from this camp will -have to go down to the "Penelope" at Escholtz Bay and bring supplies. -I'm sure it will not be I. I shall be here when spring opens for the -bird migrations. The boys report that two of the river steamers are -lost. They were put into a side stream to freeze up for the winter. -This stream is fed by warm springs which kept running after the -stream froze over, depositing successive layers of ice around the -boats until one of them is buried entirely out of sight, smoke-stack -and all. The other, the "Agnes E. Boyd." belonging to the Hanson -Company, is about half buried. If these boats had been watched at -the start and dams put around them and then raised, they could have -been saved. But now they are entombed in solid ice, and, unless they -are chopped out before spring, the torrents when the thaw comes will -smash them to pieces. The little "Helen" is so far all safe. That -slow, ugly-looking little scow, which everybody made fun of last -fall, may be ahead of all the big steamers next spring. Already the -Hanson boys are talking about making arrangements with us for taking -them down to the Mission. Thus shall the first be last and the last -first. The general opinion of our boys now seems to be, if nothing -is found in this country by next July, to sail down along the coast -to Bristol Bay and way stations, inquiring as to the news from those -sections, and finally taking in the Aleutian Islands. This suits my -inclinations. Reports are coming directly from the Yukon region that -there is nothing to encourage one to go there. It is safe to conclude -that newspaper reports are as nine to ten exaggerated. There are -thousands of disappointed people in all sections of central Alaska. -Travel is almost impossible. - -Jan. 31, Tuesday.--We are having cloudy weather with a little -snow. The thermometer stands at ten degrees below zero, and it is -uncomfortably warm in our winter clothes. I shot four ptarmigan -yesterday, two of which I have just finished skinning. I got three -at one shot, standing, and the other on the wing. The doctor is out -now hunting the birds. Whenever I get any game it excites him so -that he immediately goes hunting. He seldom starts until I have set -the example. I do not have success oftener than each third hunt. -Walking through the snow is very tiresome, but one must be persistent -in this as in other things. It seems to be only chance that I ever -do find the ptarmigan. I usually search for fresh tracks along the -bushy margins of lakes or sloughs and then follow them up. Mornings -I find them mostly near their roosting-places, and they seldom fly -far. They sleep on the ground, burrowing into the snow and clearing -a bare wallow on the warm, soft moss. It is difficult to see them on -the snow, and this accounts in part for my ill success. Yesterday I -walked right into a flock without seeing them until they flew. I also -got two pine grosbeaks and two redpolls. The days are growing rapidly -longer. Only three months until the spring birds come. - -Sunday there were fifty-seven persons at church, including thirty-two -white men. A stranger conducted the services in C. C.'s place. -Nothing occurred of an unexpected nature excepting the fact that one -of our boys went to sleep and snored so loud that it made us all -think we were back in the States at church somewhere. Last night we -had what Kowak boys call a "great blow-out." Brownie made a big wad -of taffy and we all pulled at it. By the way, three or four of us -were surprised at Christmas by receiving a box each, "straight from -home." They had been packed and given into the care of different -persons, so that the recipient of each box did not suspect that he -was to have one. By some oversight of the party to whom my own was -committed, I did not get my Christmas box, but am assured that it is -"safe somewhere," and will come to light when somebody stumbles over -it. Dr. Coffin received his on time, and the contents have yielded -us no end of comfort. Brownie drew upon its nuts and crystallized -fruits for his taffy. After the candy was washed off from the table -and chairs and candle-sticks and faces and hands, we played a game -of crokonole, which lasted far into the night. The result was that I -did not have breakfast on time. Miller and I played the doctor and -Rivers, the latter combine winning two out of three games after a -very close struggle. They had the "ha-ha" on me. The game finally -depended on the last shot, which was mine. We both had 195-200 to -make. There were three blacks on the board and two whites. The -whites are Miller's and mine. I had a fairly good split shot to take -off two blacks, which would have given us the odd game by a good -margin. Everyone was talking and the opposition was doing its best -to "rattle" me. Anyhow, by some extraordinary roundabout, my shot -cleared the board of every white one and put all three blacks in the -center ring. Oh, but the howl from the enemy! - -Several cases of scurvy are reported along the line. One man is -nearly dead. It is supposed to be due to a sameness of diet and two -little exercise. Men settle down in their cabins and, not being -obliged to go out, just sleep the time away. Dr. Coffin suspects -another cause. A poor grade of food-stuffs has been brought up, -probably with adulterations. Brownie is just now pounding up lumps -of sugar on the table where I am writing. He is using the end of my -rolling-pin with great effect and much scattering of sweetness, much -to the delight of several Eskimo "mickaninies," who are having an -active picnic in consequence. - -[Illustration: Home from the Mission.] - -Feb. 2.--C. C. and party have returned, whole but tired. Besides -C. C., Cox and Mr. Samms, there are four fellows from the Upper -Agnes Boyd Camp, so that we are pretty well crowded as to sleeping. -I had eighteen men to feed for three meals, serving them at two -tables. I had to "rustle" for breakfast this morning. Made two big -pans of biscuit, a kettle of mush, a mass of salt-horse hash, bacon -and gravy. The repast was successful, excepting that the gravy was -somewhat salty. It is a great idea this, my cooking for eighteen men, -after I have declared "quits" so many times. The fellows laugh now -when I "resign." - -Scurvy and "black-leg" are getting common up the river. One man at -the Jesse Lou Camp has died of the latter. The "black-leg" is what -the doctors call phlebitis. Black patches appear on the lower limbs, -which swell and become very painful. Many are affected and at some -of the camps above us they have instituted regular "scurvy trails," -five to ten miles long, which they tramp every day. Exercise and a -change of food seem to help and also to prevent the disease. Those -who are suffering have been confined to their cabins so long, eating -pork and beans and baking-powder bread, to the exclusion of fruit -and fresh meats, that their cases are almost hopeless. C. C. reports -nothing new above. He and Samms visited the big Indian village at -the Par River. C. C. got a black bear skin in trade. Samms took a -census of the native population and finds about four hundred and -fifty on the Kowak. C. C. had rather a hard trip I guess, but he -was anxious to get it. Nothing like having plenty of hardships to -relate on one's return home. I expect to do some of the relating -myself. He is a pretty heavy man and it would seem could not endure -as much as a slender person. But he manages to make it. Last night -and to-day we have our heaviest snowfall. Until a thaw comes to -form a crust traveling will be difficult. Yesterday the literary -was well attended. Mr. Young of the Iowa Camp, talked on "Butter -Making and Creamery Methods." and I on the "Bacteria which Assist -in the Making of Cheese and Butter." Casey sang two comic songs, -"The Irish Jubilee." and "Put Me Off at Buffalo." Miller sang "Just -Behind the Times" and "The Queen's Hussars." Miller has a fine voice. -The literary is growing more popular as the season advances, and it -may well be considered an important factor in helping many of us to -pass the winter profitably. We try to bring in subjects which will -interest everyone, those who are not literally inclined as well as -the rest, and I think we have been quite successful. It seems to -me that the mind must be employed in these long winter evenings at -different points of Alaska, as a means of moral and physical health. -The doctor and I agree as to this. - -Feb. 4.--The other day one of the boys was rummaging about among the -stores to see what he could come across of interest piled above the -rafters, when he accidentally knocked down a box. It fell to the door -and one corner burst open, disclosing the contents, which were not -"Sugar Corn," as the label on the end indicated. A very insignificant -legend near one end read "C. C. Reynolds." and it was set aside -as belonging to him. Yesterday it was given to C. C, who at once -recognized it as the very Christmas box which had been entrusted to -him for me before we left home, by my mother and sister. He turned it -over to me with many regrets, etc. It contained everything that could -give pleasure to a boy from two years old to twenty-one--from tooters -and jumping-jacks to warm woolen hoods and handkerchiefs and books. -Stockings were stuffed full of candies corked tightly in bottles and -tin boxes, and nuts were profuse. A touch of home-thought mingled -with the Arctic storms. I wish we had had it for Christmas on account -of the toys and candies, which would have added greatly to the -presents on the natives' Christmas tree. The hoods were especially -acceptable. They are knit with a piece across the nose, openings only -for the eyes and mouth, and are tied under the chin. They fit like -the skin itself. The books are all new to our library, which has been -pretty thoroughly digested by this time. I brought the three novels -out and they were immediately pounced upon. The doctor is reading "A -Tennessee Judge." Miller "A Kentucky Colonel." and Mrs. Samms "Oliver -Twist." I shall get at them in course of time. - -I have read very little of late aside from my physiology. There is -a growing faction in our company now favoring an expedition to the -Philippines. We have the "Penelope" and sufficient supplies to go -around the world, for that matter. For my part I think we ought not -to hurry about leaving Alaska. Resolutions in regard to prospecting -are dimly waning. Last summer it was, "We will stay in Alaska and -push on until we find gold, if it takes three years." In the fall -they thought "two years enough." Last month it was, "We will prospect -all summer and start for home as late as the boat can leave the -Sound." And now it is, "How can we the soonest reach home?" Several -men from up the river are going to start overland for St. Michaels. -Time, and plenty of it, seems to be an antidote for enthusiasm. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - -Feb. 8.--Mr. and Mrs. Samms left for the Mission yesterday. Harry -Reynolds goes with them, and will either stay there or go down to the -"Penelope." That lessens our number, but we will still have eleven -in the house. C. C. talks of following them later. There will be no -more prospecting done by this company this year, except by myself, -and that for birds. I got a pair of muckluks in trade, and am now -bartering for a pair of snowshoes. The snow is eighteen inches deep -and very light and dry. I shot four redpolls near the house this -morning. I would like to see it sixty-five degrees below zero just -for the experience of it. I have already shot ptarmigan at forty-four -degrees below, and could have stood it much colder without wind. - -Feb. 11.--It must be admitted that life is getting a little humdrum. -There is nothing in particular to write about unless one has a poetic -turn. Poetry doesn't come to any of us any more. The poetry is -wearing off from the L. B. & A. M. & T. Co. - -If I were a Mark Twain, with humor to relate the doings of people -about me, I could write a few pages of good reading. Resources are -unlimited to the right person applying. The story of our "Fool's -Errand" into this out-of-the-way country, if written by an expert, -would be as rich a theme as one could desire. But alas! I am only a -bird-hunter by nature, and a gold-hunter on the Kowak by grace of -my father, and am unable to depict the fortunes of this crowd in -an acceptable manner. There is unrest everywhere. All admit that -they have been duped. Some are making the best of circumstances, -but others are taking it to heart in a pitiful degree. Although for -the most part good-natured, chagrin is the rule. There are many -pathetic tales half hinted at. Men left families to live as best -they might, in vain hope, in narrowed circumstances at home, selling -or mortgaging all they possessed to outfit themselves, confidently -expecting to return with quickly-acquired wealth. About twenty-five -men have lost their lives so far from drowning, freezing or scurvy, -several of whom we know to have dependent families at home. It is -worse than war, for there is no pension. And then the ridiculousness -of this mad rush! How a company of excited men followed an Eskimo -three days across the tundras and over the mountains, only to be -shown a little brook with yellow mica glistening in the sandy bed! -How another party had a "sure thing," and several others got wind of -it and followed, scarcely giving themselves time to sleep, until they -all reached the same spot together in a mood to fight, but finally -laughed at themselves as if provoked by a humorous ice demon. Several -parties paid an old sailor at San Francisco forty dollars each for -a "tip" as to the exact spot where gold had been dug out, "fifteen -thousand dollars in two hours with a jack-knife"! They all met at the -supposed place. We have had the laugh on them many times, though I -fail to see the exact grounds. The ludicrous sometimes changes to the -doleful even while I am laughing. - -"We paid $600 apiece for our tip," someone says. Several have -owned up that they followed the "Penelope" crowd into this country -believing that we had "a sure thing;" and the missionaries told us -that it has been rumored that nearly live hundred men came into -the Sound last summer following our "scent." I cannot see anything -"funny" about it, though some do. - -Feb. 12.--This morning after breakfast I amused myself about an -hour before service by paying strict attention to affairs about me -in the cabin. It is astonishing how entertaining the meaningless, -helter-skelter, careless conversation can be. And yet there are -points. We are all doing something, if only yawning or looking out of -the frosty window. - -C. C. is clipping Cox's whiskers and makes inaudible remarks. Rivers -is shaving, just like any Christian of a Sunday morning. Miller, -Alec, Clyde, Casey, Brownie and the doctor are reading. I am writing -at the table. Uncle Jimmy is standing by the stove with his hands -in his pockets, facing the window and whistling. A pail of water is -set into the top of the heating stove and sizzles in varying tones. -All is quiet for a while, when positions are changed. Ablutions are -going on behind closed canvas. Uncle Jimmy sits down on a bench and -pulls his beard in a slow, rhythmical motion. He is abstracted. Cox -tills a stew-pail with water, pieces of ice striking the sides with -a tinkling sound, and puts it on the cook stove. Uncle Jimmy gets -his Bible and sits down at the table, spending several moments in -wiping his spectacles. He reads a verse and pushes his specs high -up on his forehead, rests his head on his hand and dozes off. Casey -and Cox exchange some words about a "shirt" that has shrunken in -washing. Rivers takes the thermometer and goes outdoors. Returns, -saying that it is "thirty below." and bids me put that in my diary. -Clyde brings his camera outfit to the window and explains what the -several pictures represent. Cox asks me to "blow out the lamp if I -don't need it," which I do. Cox gets a book and sits down near the -window. He lights his big corn-cob and, after putting several dense -clouds of smoke, asks, "Will I disturb you smoking. Uncle Jimmy?" The -latter says, "Oh, no; oh, no!" Rivers gets "Hamlet" and sits down to -the table to read. C. C. is in his bed-room humming a tune. Ceases -humming and whistles; is again humming; whistles; sings. The doctor -gets up, saying. "Uncle Jimmy. I didn't know I took your Bible." Goes -into bed-room and puts on hood and mittens. Says he is "going up to -see Bentz." And the morning passes, while I see and hear much more of -no greater importance than what I have recorded. Half-past eleven the -natives and "cabloonas" begin to arrive for church. C. C. speaks, and -as usual we all listen. - -[Illustration: After Whitefish.] - -Is it monotonous, does one think who has not spent months in a cabin -with the same faces and the same voices and the same routine of -endless twilight? I marvel how some who have not inward resources can -endure it. - -I let "Cingato" have my shot-gun yesterday, and he brought me four -ptarmigan, two of which were the rock ptarmigan, which I have not -before taken. I wanted to skin them to-day, but Uncle Jimmy wouldn't -let me. If I insisted Casey said I might, from Uncle Jimmy's -threatening look, "precipitate a rough house." I put the birds away -to freeze until to-morrow, so there is no further danger of a "rough -house." - -Last night we had the most beautiful aurora of the winter. The -more brilliant display was south of the zenith, although there was -scarcely a part of the sky which was not illuminated at some time. -Broad curtains of pale blue light seemed suspended in the heavens. -They were constantly changing in form and intensity, and waves slowly -swept across them as if they were disturbed by a breeze. The lower -edge was the brighter, and alternate light and shadow chased each -other endlessly from west to east. The effect was like that of a -stage with the curtain drawn, with a succession of persons passing -in front of the footlights. And then there were ribbons of light -sweeping slowly across the sky. These bands were often abruptly -broken and continued at right angles with the other section. Little -patches of light, like a fleecy cloud in a sunny sky, appeared for a -few minutes, to gradually fade out again. There was no moon, and yet -the landscape was illuminated as if by the brightest moonlight, but -there were no shadows. - -[Illustration: On a Journey.] - -Feb. 17.--Alec, Miller and Casey started back up the river and -Brownie went with them. The four "Agnes Boyd" boys who came down with -C. C. also went up, and two of the Hanson boys with them. Yesterday -Casey. Clyde and three of the Iowa people also left, and will catch -up with the first party at Ambler City. Alec, Miller, Clyde and -Brown will return in a month. The party had two sleds and four dogs. -The cabin seems almost empty. We have had from eleven to eighteen -sleeping and eating here for the past month or more, and now we are -only six. The comparative quiet is a relief and I shall be able to do -more studying. I want to read some more books as well. I expect we -shall be few in numbers from now on. When Alec and Miller get back -from the upper camp they, with C. C. and Rivers, are planning to go -down to the vessel at Escholtz Bay. Casey, our engineer, will stick -by the "Helen" until the river opens. I am going to stay here until -the "Helen" picks me up on her way to the Sound. I can do more work -in the spring collecting, with a warm cabin to dry specimens in, -than chasing over the country prospecting, with a will-o'-the-wisp -in view. The weather is very gloomy. The air is heavy with mist -and full of a fine frost which falls constantly. The sun, although -it shines for seven hours a day, doesn't get far enough above the -horizon to get in its genial work. It was forty-five degrees below -zero this morning and we stay in the cabin. Last week Rivers and I -were relieved from culinary duties and Cox took our place. Coxie -proves himself to be the best cook the Long Beach and Alaska Mining -and Trading Company has produced. We feel our loss in not having -discovered his talents in this line before. He has been too modest. -His art shall no longer be in obscurity. - -He sits straddle of the stove all day long concocting original dishes -and improving upon old ones. He gives us a quarter of a pie apiece -three times a day, and as much as we want between meals. His bread -is perfect. We had the finest kind of fried eggs for breakfast--fish -eggs. The only impediment to his cooking, to my mind, is his -inability to make mush. It is too thin. We have made a fortunate -deal with the Hanson Company, who have fifty tons of provisions -in their storehouse here, to get all the extra grub we need until -summer. Their steamer, the "Agnes Boyd," is nearly buried in a -"glacier creek," and it will probably fall to the "Helen" to ship -their possessions down next summer. I was down to the San Jose cabin -for dinner. We were served to an individual can apiece of sauerkraut -and sausages steaming hot. I had been hunting across the tundra for -several miles through the snow, and my appetite was as keen as C. -C.'s razor after he has stropped it on a section of the belt which -was made at home and fastened around his waist with the charge that -on no account was it to be taken off unless he was found dead in the -snow. It has his name on it for identification. Guy Solsbury has just -come up with Dr. Coffin to stay with us for a few days' visit. We -have plenty of room now, and are ready to receive in decent style. - -[Illustration: A Child in the Cabin.] - -Feb. 20. 12 o'clock noon.--Cox and Rivers and I are the only ones -in the room. The rest are cutting wood. The sunshine is flooding -the cabin with light, although the thermometer shows forty degrees -below zero. One of our Eskimo neighbors, "Poth-luk," is visiting -us, probably more for the benefit he derives from the stove than -from a particularly friendly feeling. His little girl is with him, -and is romping around the room like any white child. "Kop-puk" is -the prettiest native child I have seen. She is "four snows old," so -Poth-luk tells me. Her costume is typically Eskimo--a heavy deerskin -parka with a big hood, lined with wolverine, strips of minkskin -hanging from her shoulders and waist, and deerskin commuks. Her hood -lies back from her head exposing her black hair, cut bang-wise in -front. Her face is round and fat and her mouth really very pretty. -She has shining dark brown eyes and perfectly white teeth. At this -moment she is playing "peek-a-boo" with me from behind a chair. Her -laughing face, surrounded by the broad fringe of wolverine fur, and -her chubby figure, make a pretty picture. I would like to take her -home with me. But what could I do with her? If taken from her native -climate she would probably soon die. - -[Illustration: Our Artist Snowed In.] - -We have a new lounge, which invites indigence in an already lazy -crowd. I have read over and over the six letters I received in the -New Year's mail. It will be six months yet before we get any more. We -heard from an Indian that Harry K. and Samms had reached the Orphans' -Home safely, though they have had hard traveling. Saturday night -Brownie, Clyde, two of the Iowa boys and one Hansonite returned, -having given up the trip. They only went fifteen miles up the river. -The snow is so deep they had to carry the sled in some places, and -those who are continuing with it have to double up with the loads; -that is, go over the road twice in order to get the entire load up. -They will have a rough time. Brownie came near freezing to death -and had to return. This gave the other boys who came with him an -excuse for returning. Brownie has been around home all winter, not -exercising much, and was not sufficiently hardened for such a trip. -The first day, after they had been out but a few hours, he sat down -exhausted and said he would come on as soon as he had rested a few -minutes (the old story). The boys had presence of mind to know -what the real matter was and tried to get him to walk on, but he -completely collapsed and became unconscious. They quickly unloaded -the sled and several went on ahead to prepare the tent and get a -fire going, while the rest got Brownie on the sled and hauled him -to camp. He was finally restored, but a few minutes more and another -would have been added to the Kowak silent ones. It was thirty-five -degrees below zero, not so very cold, but his feet and face were -frozen. The boys plied the art of thawing him out so well that he -will lose nothing but some skin. He makes a pretty picture with a -black nose. His toes are sore, too. Nothing will induce him to leave -the cabin again. It is no use making light of it, it is dangerous -traveling unless one is in the best physical condition and with -proper clothes and outfit. The rest of the party are used to it, and -we have no fear for their safety. So many together can take care of -each other. Brownie says that when he sat down to rest he only felt -tired and a little numb. This numbness crept on him with little pain -until he gradually lost perception. He says he "felt good" and didn't -like to be disturbed. He lost all power of movement and speech until -he was warmed up and rubbed for two or three hours. Death by freezing -must be very easy and pleasant. Perhaps it is easier to die almost -any death than we suspect. I must have an argument with the doctor -about that. - -Saturday brought me a new experience--that of writing a sick man's -will. B., who lives alone in a little cabin near the first Iowa -Camp, is very sick and will probably die. He dictated his will to -me, in the presence of Uncle Jimmy as witness. It apportions all his -goods and possessions here, which are all he has in the world, among -the residents of this community, naming in particular several who -have waited upon him. Dr. Coffin is willed his dory. B. is a queer -character. He is more or less insane, evidently from drink. The way -he begs for hypodermic injections of cocaine and morphine indicates -that he may have been a "dope fiend." He has been here since last -summer. For some time previous his record was not sustaining, but -his people thought he might be benefited by a change of climate. He -says his folks are well off and he doesn't want any of his things -sent home. The different camps are sharing in his care now, and he -may live indefinitely. His legs are affected very much like the -scurvy victim's, though the doctors do not call it that. Several of -the people have frost-bitten cheeks, but otherwise this is a healthy -neighborhood. What little sickness we have had tends to make the well -ones kind and charitable and helpful. They chop wood for one another -and in many ways give evidence of having sprung from a long line of -Christian ancestors. I have heard that, this is the case always and -everywhere at mining camps. And ours is a mining camp. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - -Feb. 24. Friday. 9 p. m.--I went hunting for the first time on -snowshoes. I got along famously until I struck a soft snowdrift, and -the shoes turned on edge and I fell headlong. Otherwise I received -no casualties and got over the ground rapidly, skirting the brushy -margins of lakes back on the tundra and following up the creeks. I -shot three rock ptarmigan, and learned many interesting items about -their notes and habits, which are duly set down in my special bird -notes. The weather is calm and clear and cold, ranging from fifteen -to fifty-one degrees in the twenty-four hours. - -Wednesday afternoon the literary was again well attended, as we had a -very interesting programme. Dr. Coffin had arranged the east end of -the room in a patriotic manner, the designs being his own. A large -flag made of a red blanket with parallel stripes of white cheese -cloth folded across it, and in the corner a square of blue mosquito -netting with paper stars pinned on it, formed the background. On -a platform in front of this were stacked three guns, one an old -rusted muzzle-loader which C. C. found out in the woods, one an -old-fashioned breech-loader, and the third a modern nitro-repeater, -to represent the three great wars--the Revolutionary, the Civil, -and the Spanish. On the wall were magazine cuts of Schley, Sampson, -Dewey, Hobson, and other heroes, while in the center of the blanket -flag was a large picture of George and Martha Washington. - -Mr. Legg, of the Jesse Lou Camp, gave a talk on Honduras, where -he was a banana grower some years ago. Several George Washington -speeches followed, by Solsbury, Jury, Thees, C. C. and others. Just -at the close of the meeting Uncle S. came blustering in from up the -river. He brought a lot of news that kept the people here until -late in the night. Two or three more men have been frozen to death. -Several have scurvy. Our boys were at Ambler City waiting for the -weather to moderate before going on up. There has been absolutely -no gold heard from. There are thousands of men in the lower Yukon -regions, one hundred and fifty steamers and various kinds of -launches along the Koyukuk alone, and no encouraging prospects. -Hundreds of men haven't a cent to pay their passage back to the -States. One good thing makes affairs better than they might be--there -is plenty to eat in the country. It is said that a good many have -signed a petition to the government to come and get them out of their -trouble. - -We feel pretty sure of our return tickets. But the "Penelope" is at -the mercy of Arctic demons, and if she is saved it will be marvelous. - -Feb. 26, Sunday.--I will confess that I did not behave well in church -this morning. I took a seat over in the corner behind Rivers, where I -thought my scribbling would not be noticed, and there I am writing. I -guess no one will be harmed by it unless it be myself. 10:30 a. m., -and the first arrivals for meeting are Charley Lund and Beam of the -first Iowa Camp--that is, representing the white population. Services -are supposed to begin at eleven, but two benches of Eskimo are -already seated. They are quite well behaved, but keep up an incessant -jabbering. Charley Lund, Beam and the doctor are holding an animated -conversation about the sick man B. B. is a good deal better. - -Guy Solsbury and Normandin of the Hanson Camp have just arrived, all -muffled up, their masks thickly frosted. It is forty-five degrees -below zero, but they report that their three-mile walk was "quite -comfortable." Normandin brought me a big box nicely finished with -cover and shallow trays, for my skins. It is in trade for a stuffed -ptarmigan. He is quite a genius in the mechanical line. The box -was rather too heavy to carry, so he fastened a pair of runners on -blocks at the bottom and dragged it up by a rope tied to a handle -on one end. Lyman comes in with his clarionet case under his arm. -Dr. Gleaves and D. arrive, and then Young. Dougherty and Montgomery, -from the middle Iowa cabin, and Legg of the Jesse Lou, who is staying -with them. Several more natives come in with friendly "Halloas!" "Big -Jones" from the further Iowa Camp arrives, and Brennan and Malcolm -from the Sunnyside. Brennan is nicknamed "Noisy." because he is -always very quiet and has nothing to say to anyone. Remarks as to the -"cold weather," wooden snow-glasses and snowshoes, are numerous. The -conversation is mainly desultory, carried on piecemeal from opposite -sides of the room. But there is a low hum from two or three couples -who are carrying on a more earnest conversation. Dr. Coffin and -Dr. Gleaves, for instance. I overhear discussing Fish's condition. -Fish is the man whose toes were amputated. One can see that Sunday -services on the Kowak are rather of a social nature. The orchestra -begins to tune up; general silence falls on the congregation, and -individuals seek permanent seats. Dr. Coffin gives out the song -books, of which C. C. brought plenty. The orchestra consists of the -banjo by C. C, violin by Normandin, and clarionet by Lyman. There is -some delay and more tuning of the banjo and clarionet, which do not -seem to jibe (to use a musical term). A low buzz of conversation is -again audible, and the leaves of the hymn books rustle. Several of -the natives have colds and there is considerable coughing. It is very -quiet: sort of an air of suspense. The sunshine streaming across the -room, reflected from yellow Mackinaw suits, gives a brownish tint to -the scene. Normandin and C. C. are discoursing "sharps" and "flats" -in a low voice, yet audible in the room. The violin and banjo are not -quite tuned together. Solsbury is talking aloud about "Moth balls in -furs, back in the States." At last C. C. announces the number of the -hymn in a loud, hurried voice, as though he were just startled out -of a reverie, "No. 17, Jesus Saves." The clarionet sounds the pitch -and C. C. leads in the singing. The time is awfully slow. Nearly -everyone sings, the Eskimos following the air nearly as well as the -whites. Although many sing out of tune, and individually would make -a horrible discord, the aggregation is a somewhat musical droning -of a quality that would soon put one to sleep. After four verses -of this hymn. "No. 64" is announced. "Wait and Murmur Not." Some -further tuning, and four verses of this hymn are gone through with. -They always do sing all the verses of any hymn. Dr. Coffin now rises -and reads the second chapter of Matthew. Mr. D. is in charge of the -meeting to-day, and he calls on Mr. W. to "lead in prayer." Uncle -Jimmy slowly rises, takes a step or two forward, clasps his hands in -front of him, and, closing his eyes, raises his face slightly. He is -a good man and I like to see and hear him pray. I haven't anything -against Uncle Jimmy. When anyone prays the Eskimos always bow their -heads low, resting their elbows on their knees. They say "Amen" in -unison when the prayer is finished. So much is the result of Mr. -and Mrs. Samms' missionary work. Uncle Jimmy terminates with the -Lord's Prayer, in which all join. When the praying is over there is -quite a hubbub of coughing and sneezing. C. C. announces "No. 49." -and the orchestra tunes. "There shall be showers of blessing." four -verses. The clarionet doesn't seem to know this very well and makes -several breaks. Toward the end of the last verse the hymn-books are -closed and there is a general settling down. D. rises and, after a -pause, proceeds to apologize for his inability as a public speaker. -But he tells us he will do the best he can, and we ask for nothing -more. His subject is "The Divinity of Christ." I should like to take -down the various points, but my continued scratching is noisy and -attracts attention. I might get taken out of meeting by the ear and -so suffer for being a "naughty little boy." A couple of men came in -late during the sermon and caused some disturbance until they finally -got seated, mopping the melting ice from their beards. D. winds up -his discourse with a prayer. The most of his sermon was written, -and delivered in his usual halting manner, but the substance was -good for any location and showed that he had given a good deal of -study to his subject. After the prayer and a chorus of "Amens" from -the natives, who haven't understood a word of what was said, there -is a sort of recovery, with coughing and clearing of throats and -shuffling of feet. "No. 139" is announced. "Bringing in the sheaves." -three verses. C. C. starts another song, which he observes "will be -familiar to the natives," "No. 39, At the Cross." The Eskimos catch -a tune quite readily, the women and children carrying the air very -nicely. They try hard to imitate the words. Two verses conclude this -song. "No. 14, Jesus, I Come." is announced. It is a new piece and is -sung very scatteringly. Guy Solsbury calls for "Sunshine." He thinks -it appropriate, because at this moment the sunshine is flooding the -room with more than usual brightness. But C. C. says he hasn't the -music, so the orchestra can't play it. C. C. asks all to rise, and he -prays and gives the benediction. The congregation slowly disperses, -little knots remaining to discuss various topics. Legg declares -he will not go back to the Jesse Lou until the weather moderates. -Thus with gossip and swapping of news the Kowak Sunday services are -finally ended and the room is cleared in time for the 2 o'clock -dinner. - -[Illustration: Church Service at Cape Blossom in July.] - -March 3.--I have been pretty busy to-day. Got up just in time for -breakfast, which I don't have to get any more, for a while at least, -and took my snowshoes up to the village to be mended. Then Rivers and -I went ptarmigan hunting. We tramped across the tundras from eight -till two, bagging two ptarmigan and a redpoll. It was tiresome. In -the ravines where the wind did not strike, the snow was soft and deep -and hard to get over even with snowshoes. Rivers wore snowshoes for -the first time, and he got several tumbles, but always struck in a -soft place. - -We got into a large flock of ptarmigan which kept flying around us, -but, after two or three shots, our hands became too cold and we had -to give them up. My mitts were sweaty, and froze while I had them -off shooting, and when I put them on again my hands nearly became -frosted. It is too cold for comfortable hunting. When we got back we -were late for dinner, but Coxie got us a fine lunch, hot pea soup, -biscuits, and apple cobbler. After dinner I put up two ptarmigan -skins that I shot last Tuesday. Rivers is learning how to skin birds -now. He expects to go down to Escholtz Bay pretty soon to be with the -vessel when the ice breaks up, and will collect eggs and skins for me -there. I would like to turn the whole company into an egg collecting -concern for a month in May and June. But I guess the doctor and -Rivers are the only ones who will take much active interest. Last -night I had a very nice dream. The first swallows had come. There -were barn swallows and bank swallows flying along the river and I was -after them. Before many weeks this is just what will happen. It will -be an exciting time for me. More exciting than gold hunting. - -Monday was my birthday, and there was quite a celebration in the -cabin. The first thing in the morning, before I was fairly awake. -I was attacked by the doctor, and we had a five-minute squabble, -pitched high. At the close of the seance he claimed to have given -me twenty-two spanks. They were more in the nature of bunts and -kicks than square spanks. I made the doctor lots of hard work. We -rolled around the floor and under the bed and on the beds, and tore -things up generally, including Brownie, who got in the road with -his sore leg. At breakfast Coxie served me a big bowl of oatmeal -mush. We had been out of mush material for a long time, much to my -personal sorrow, as all the boys and most of the neighbors well know. -Mr. Lyman, hearing of my birthday, kindly sent me in a package of -oatmeal. Good birthday present that! - -I also received a birthday box from home, smuggled like the Christmas -box, not to be opened until the day appointed. There was everything -in it--games, books, candies, duly bottled and boxed, etc. We all had -a treat. At dinner a big platter of ptarmigan was set at my place -(some I had shot), and all in all it was a very pleasant occasion. -A birthday in the Arctics, on the banks of the mighty Kowak, is not -often the thing that happens to a fellow. - -Wednesday, at the literary, C. C. talked on "Reminiscences of an -Undertaker." It was very interesting, being his favorite and familiar -theme. It was held at the Hanson Camp, and I remained as guest of Guy -Solsbury, Jack Messing and Joe Jury came here and visited our boys -at the same time. We have to visit about these cold nights and sleep -under one cover when possible. Blankets are none too plentiful. - -Normandin mended my shot-gun, which had lost a rivet, for which I -paid him the sum of a stuffed ptarmigan. Everybody wants ptarmigan -skins now, but I have to be rather "stingy," as I am frequently -told, or else I won't have a ghost of a "series" to take home for -comparison. Home! When? - -[Illustration: Coming to Trade.] - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - -March 7, 1899.--I have succeeded at last in trading for two pairs -of snowshoes, from some Eskimos who have just come up the river. -The dickering engaged the entire afternoon, and I am completely -exhausted. It is a stupendous undertaking to attempt to trade for -anything. The natives want the earth, and then "some more." The -following is an illustration of the proceedings: An Indian brings in -a pair of snowshoes and we all rush to see them, commenting on their -size and quality. "Mickaninny" (too small); "anganinny" (too big); -"naguruk" (good); "caprok pechak" (string loose); "byme by fixem." -And then "capsinic" (how much?) The native invariably replies, "You -speak." You can never make an Indian state what he wants. You begin -by offering him "sox." "Konga" (no). He wants "cow cow" (something -to eat). "Flour?" "Capsinic flour?" "Neleuea" (I don't know). Being -urged on flour, the native intimates "two sacks." "Oh, apazh, -apazh" (too much). One sack flour all right? "No, too small." The -Indian then proceeds to look over the sack of flour brought for his -inspection and he finds "potoa" (hole). After this is sewed up he -finds that it has been wet at one end and the flour is a little caked -in advance at the bottom. He therefore states that the whole thing is -"no good," and "dauxic pechak" (no trade). He wants bacon, "so long -and so broad," indicating the measurements in the air with hands. -"No, we pechak" (haven't any for him). Then I bring out a shirt to -add to the sack of flour. He looks at the shirt and finds a torn -place. "Stoney-house" (no good). - -"Stoney-house" means torn or broken, and has a queer derivation. Fort -Cosmos is called stoney-house by the natives, because Lieutenant -Stoney and his party wintered there in 1884. The cabin they lived in -at Fort Cosmos (there is no fort or anything else there now) is all -broken down. So, with an Eskimo, "All same stoney-house," or simply -"stoney-house," means broken. - -After two hours of sweating and bargaining the trade is consummated, -and the "cabloona" is satisfied. It is much to the relief of both -parties. From the foregoing it will be plainly seen that a native -is amply able to care for his own interests, and has learned from a -probably bitter experience to "look a leetle out." - -I got a very nice pair of snowshoes to take home as curiosities for -one sack of flour and a pair of socks, and another pair, stronger but -not so prettily made, for every-day use, for a half sack of flour -and half a pound of tea. This is very reasonable and some under -winter prices. Snowshoes make nice wall decorations for halls and -dining-rooms, with a suitable picture stuck in them where the foot -belongs. - -Wednesday, March 8.--Our extremely cold weather is at an end, I hope. -But it is more disagreeable outside. I put up a spruce grouse and two -redpolls this afternoon. Birds are becoming noisier and, I presume, -happier and in better spirits as the sunshine increases. An Alaskan -three-toed wood-pecker drums taps on a dead spruce near the cabin -every morning. The jays are quiet, but have a stealthy, sly manner -which indicates that they are about to engage in nest-building. -Rivers has finished up two ptarmigan skins in fair shape. He is very -painstaking and I hope he gets some good specimens down on the coast. -I have everyone posted as to keeping birds and eggs for me, and, with -this generous promise of help, I ought to obtain some rare things -this spring. - -The literary met this afternoon, with good attendance and a talk "On -the Eye" by Dr. Gleaves. A week ago the other officers and myself -thought our terms of office had about expired, so we "resigned," and -our successors were elected; Joe Jury, president; Clyde, secretary; -Young, vice-president. To-day, as I was retiring from the chair. Dr. -Coffin arose and, after a most elaborate speech, presented me with a -gavel. He spoke of its rare value on account of its associations, and -grew quite sentimental. It was part of a birch tree, chopped down by -Uncle Jimmy near our winter home "on the Kowak far away." Dr. Coffin -selected the pieces and worked them down. The head was turned by -Normandin on the famous grindstone lathe of the San Jose cabin. Joe -Jury worked the crank, yielding "two barrels of sweat by measure." -and Dr. Coffin turned the handle and finished up the gavel. It is a -very valuable and beautiful souvenir to be kept "as long as memory -lasts." - -Joe Jury took the chair which I had vacated to-day and made things -lively, using a big hand-ax for a gavel and otherwise making this, -probably our final meeting, a merry one. Several of the Kowak men -are about to leave. Nine of the Sunny siders started up yesterday -with their sled loads. They have lots of courage and perseverance, -but I doubt their making the mountain passes with their supplies. -Solsbury and Joe Jury start down to-morrow on a three weeks' trip to -look after the condition of their barge, sixty-eight miles below us. -Dr. Gleaves and the boys from "Quality Hill" are getting ready for -a hunting trip across to the Naatak. Oh, I believe I have not made -previous mention of Quality Hill. It is an interesting spot, the -cabin being occupied by four young men of the aristocracy. They have -been exclusive, as became men of their distinction. Few of us have -been on intimate terms with them, but they are said to lie in their -bunks until twelve o'clock noon, and to stay up, when once out, until -two the following morning. They divert themselves by shooting at mice -which run across the floor, using their six-shooters. Various boxes -and knot-holes about the walls of their residence suggest targets. -The walls themselves are riddled with bullet holes. They are said to -have trained a young Eskimo as personal attendant, who does all the -work of the cabin, building fires, bringing wood and water, and even -cooking. He sleeps on the floor, so that he may lye handy to rekindle -the fires of a cold night. The first man to arouse in the morning -tosses a boot or other article at the native servant, which reminds -him of his domestic duties. He blacks their muckluks, it is rumored, -and serves coffee and cigars in bed. They live in style on Quality -Hill. Thus even the remote Kowak has its aristocratic society. - -March 10.--I put up five more rock ptarmigan to-day. They are -difficult to skin and it is slow work, and their being pure white -makes it necessary to be extra nice with them. I have already used -more than half of my supply of plaster-of-paris and the migrations -have not begun. I use this plaster in cleaning the skins. - -Yesterday the doctor and I went hunting for three hours in the -forenoon and secured eight ptarmigan. It was pleasant when we -started, but after a while the north wind blew. We were about to -return when we discovered a flock of ptarmigan on a hillside. The -fine snow was driving along the ground in a continuous blinding -stream. The birds squatted down close in the snow, facing the wind, -evidently tired. They paid little attention to us until we were -within easy shot, when they rose and, after a short flight, settled -again. I felt sorry to take advantage of them, they are usually so -wary. The doctor wore his snowshoes for the first time and on the -whole got along pretty well. Once, however, he got mixed up in a -snowdrift. He tripped, the pointed heel of one shoe stuck, and down -went the toe of the other. He plunged head first into the snow, where -he could scarcely move. During the progress of his wallowing his -shot-gun got crammed full of snow, and he poked it out just in time -to see four ptarmigan fly past. - -[Illustration: The Doctor Makes a Good Start--] - -[Illustration: But Finds Himself in a Changed Position.] - -March 15, 9 a. m.--It has been storming three days. This morning -the wind is roaring among the trees louder than ever, and the snow -tills the air so thickly one cannot see a hundred yards. It is -warmer, however, as it always is with an east wind; warmer than we -have seen it since last September. I have been on my first hunt for -jay's nests. When it is cloudy one can see through the foliage of -the spruces more readily than when the sun shines, throwing shadows -everywhere. Last week several of the "Amblerites" came down. They -report many cases of scurvy at Ambler City, and they came to our -camps to get tomatoes, fruit and pickles. They are now stormbound, -and two of them, Phillips and La Voy, are with us. They will have -hard sledding back again unless it thaws enough to form a crust. -Money is very scarce up here now and provisions and clothing are -below par, with half the money we spent in the States one could buy -up a good outfit. If one could only see ahead! But In that case we -would not have been here, and I should probably never have seen the -spring migrations on the Kowak. An ill wind that blows nobody any -good. - -March 18.--The cloudy weather continues. The warmth from the room is -penetrating the roof and the water is dripping through in several -places. The frost and ice in the lean-to are melting, making a sloppy -place. Icicles hang down from above, like stalactites in a cave, and -slippery cones rise from the floor like stalagmites. The snow is -about two feet deep on the level and is soft and damp, making walking -even with snowshoes difficult. I went into the woods this morning a -few hundred yards, wading in snow above my knees, which was tiring. -I got a shot at a raven, but lost it. I heard a wood-pecker drumming -and a couple of pine grosbeaks calling. I long for the time when the -birds will arrive. Every moment will be precious then, but the time -hangs a little heavy now. I am glad I have something to look forward -to. "Looking forward to something" is about half the pleasure of -life. I have compiled my last year's bird notes, have loaded all my -shells, gotten boxes ready, and still must wait. I spend some of the -time in getting as much information from the natives as possible -about the birds. They know the natural history of the region pretty -well, and but for their superstitions would be of practical service -to me. I have been looking for jay's nests and watching these birds -for several days now. I cannot induce the natives to hunt for me, or -even to tell me of nests. They tell me that if a person looks at the -eggs of a jay or spruce grouse he will surely "mucky" (die). They -firmly believe what they say. Kallak told me that a man who lived -in her father's igloo several snows ago, looked into a jay's nest -and promptly went "mucky." Doctor Charley tells me the same thing, -except that if the person who disturbs the nest shoots one of the -parent birds and, holding it behind his back, extracts the entrails -and throws them away out of his sight, he possibly may not die. I am -afraid it will be hard for me to obtain assistance from these people -at the time when I shall most need it, and which I had fondly hoped -for all along. - -March 20.--My eyes are smarting with snow blindness while I write. -They feel full of sand. To-day the sun shone and the glare was -dreadful. Last evening I went down to the Hanson camp and spent -the night with Dr. Gleaves, and to-day have been hunting jays. I -found one nest just started and feel very much elated. It was only -by accident that I found it, for the birds are so shy. I saw a jay -flying in the direction of a strip of spruces, but lost sight of it -on account of intervening timber. I did not see the birds again, but -followed in the direction of their flight, keeping up a systematic -search through the spruces. By chance I caught sight of a small -aggregation of twigs in a young tree, which, by a few tell-tale -feathers clinging around the edge, gave me the scent. The nest was -not more than half built and I made haste to leave the vicinity so as -not to disturb the birds. I think the full set of eggs will be ready -in about three weeks. This, with the snow several feet deep and the -landscape white! I returned to Dr. Gleaves' in time for dinner at two -o'clock, and was treated to "Gleaves' Justly Celebrated," which is an -original soup of the doctor's own concoction. - -After a half day's tramp on snowshoes through deep, damp snow, one -enjoys a dinner of the "Gleaves' consomme," hash, baked sweet potato -and sweet corn. - -Last night an Eskimo died at the village, and every savage neighbor -of the deceased has moved into tents out of their warm igloos, which -are vacated for good. They are all going to move across the river and -put up wick-i-ups. The person who died was an old woman who went by -the natural route of old age. She was dragged out of her igloo a few -yards and left in the snow, for the dogs to eat up, we are told, as -she had no especial friends. C. C.'s instinct was aroused, and he and -Dr. Coffin went up to attend to the ceremonies. Wonderful to relate, -the undertaker did not bury the body, but put it on a scaffold in -true native style. He is being convinced that this is the proper form -of burial. It is expected that he will institute the same on his -return to California. - -March 24.--Guy Solsbury and Joe Jury returned from their trip to -look after the barge. Guy has some big stories to relate about their -"perilous trip," which is the identical one Cox and I made last New -Year's. They have been absent two weeks, part of the time snowed -in. We shall probably have a full account of it in the San Jose -"Mercury" next summer. It will bring the mercury down. Colclough came -up with them. He had been to the Mission, and brought us a letter -from Harry Reynolds and Captain Delano, who report everything "all -right." Several men have lately come down the Kowak. The word from -everywhere, Naatak, Buckland, Allashook, Koyukuk, and the entire -Kowak region, is "nothing." Men are waiting impatiently for spring -to open up so they can "go home." C. C., Rivers and Clyde are now -waiting for the boys to come down from the upper camp, when they -will all go down to the "Penelope." There is little of note going on -about the cabin these days. We have altogether too much sunshine. -The doctor and I were hunting ptarmigan Thursday. We tramped seven -hours and never saw a bird save a few redpolls and a small squad of -chickadees. As a result of his tramp the doctor is laid up with snow -blindness. I am not so far affected. I cannot hunt with snow-glasses -on, as they dim the vision. But I have some natural advantage. My -ancestors, who did not hunt ptarmigan on the Kowak, bequeathed to me -a pair of rather deep-set eyes with roofing brows, which are the best -protection. - -"Doctor Charley," the Eskimo who received so much kindness from -Dr. Coffin last fall, has been anxious to return the courtesy, and -yesterday his opportunity came. - -The doctor was attacked with snow blindness with great suffering. -Dr. Charley called on him professionally, and advised him to try a -treatment at the hands of his wife, who was a specialist in eye cases -of this nature. The doctor was ready to submit to almost anything at -the hands of his friends, thinking that perhaps they might possess -some secret worthy of note. Such proved to be the case. Indian -Charley's wife called and looked at the patient's eyes, swollen and -inflamed and painful to a degree. She pointed to some toothpicks on -the cabin table, and, being told to "proceed." she whittled three -of them to a sharp point. Handing one to the suffering doctor, she -bade him thrust it into his nostril. He did so and found to his -astonishment that the mucous membrane was without sensation. Obeying -his doctress, he continued to thrust in the point of this pick and -likewise the two others, when a hemorrhage of considerable severity -occurred. This was the thing greatly to be desired. In an hour the -nose was inflamed and very painful, but the eyes were relieved. After -a few hours both nose and eyes were normal, and the doctor believes -the operation rational. He declares that he will practice it upon -himself and others at the first opportunity. When he returns to -California he will doubtless hang out his sign as "Specialist on Snow -Blindness." Only there is no snow in California. I will remind him of -this fact. - -We have a "scurvy trail" now, and every day it is traveled. There are -two cases at the Los Angeles Camp. Our boys keep busy at something. -Rivers started the idea of making rustic furniture, and several -others followed. This resulted in a search through the woods nearly -every day for crooked birch sticks. Piles of these awkward "crooks" -adorn our back yard, only a select few ever coming up to all the -requirements of a "natural crook." They might be of some use as stove -wood, but it is impossible to get at them with a saw. The doctor -spent days and days whittling out candle-sticks, and so must C. C. -It is nice to have something to keep the people busy. It helps time -to limp by. One of our "best and bravest" walks the floor as if he -had the toothache, he is so homesick. He will not let Eskimo Charley -treat him for nostalgia. - -March 30.--To-day the crowd left for the Mission. They are C. C., -Clyde, Cox, Rivers, Alec and a Mr. Driggs, a stranger. The most of -them will stay on the "Penelope" at Escholtz Bay, and be on hand -there to help when the ice breaks up. Miller, who came down from -the upper camp, will remain here with us. That leaves us live. Dr. -Coffin. Uncle Jimmy. Brownie. Miller and myself. It is a relief after -the congestion. Yesterday we had seventeen for dinner. The doctor is -trying his hand at cooking now. He is a specialist on toasted cheese -and macaroni. We expect to have this combination served up three -times a day, or until the material is exhausted. We each seem to have -our culinary idiosyncrasies; Cox for light bread and pea soup; Rivers -for beans; C. C. for pie; and I for mush and hash. - -This man Driggs has joined our company till we get back to the -States. He is a sailor and navigator, with captain's papers, and may -be of use to us later. We have also another prospective addition -to our numbers, a Mr. Van Dyke, a preacher. He will join us in the -spring and take passage on the "Penelope." He knows of a "sure -thing." He says that on his way up here last year his party stopped -on the mainland near Sledge Island, and he and another man in three -hours panned out two dollars' worth of gold from a creek bed. He had -the gold in a bottle last fall and some of our boys examined it. - -That is certainly a much better prospect than we have heard of this -side of Circle City; that is, that we have any reason to rely on. He -joins us under the condition that we furnish him passage back to the -States if nothing results, but he promises to take us to this place -within two days, towing up a stream from the coast, and he firmly -believes himself that he has a "sure thing." We shall see. We have -heard so many stories of this sort that even a preacher cannot arouse -much enthusiasm. However, we have taken up his offer and will sail -for the place indicated as soon as the "Penelope" can get away from -her moorings. I'd give five dollars for the chance to pan out two -dollars' worth of gold-dust. - -Oh, yes. Van Dyke says that he met an Indian near Sledge Island who -had nuggets, and took him to a spot covered many feet by a snowdrift, -which he assured him was a mother lode, or something that sounded -very nice. Ah. I'd like to see a mother lode! She's what we are after. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: Ancient Indian Grave.] - - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - -April 2. Sunday.--Evidently our Kowak church is dwindling. Only -fifteen in attendance to-day. In C. C.'s absence Dr. Coffin and Uncle -Jimmy conducted services. Van Dyke also took part. Miller and Van -Dyke sang a duet. "Though Your Sins be as Scarlet." It was as fine as -anything I remember to have heard anywhere. And this in our little -cabin on the lonely Kowak: It snows a great deal and the north wind -blows. Collecting is slow and birds are scarce. I got a couple of -Siberian chickadees the other day. They are good birds to have, an -Asiatic species which boils over into Alaska a little. This makes -three species of chickadees I have found here--the long-tailed. -Hudsonian and Siberian. Wood-peckers are drumming on the dead -spruces, but I take care to keep away from them. Miller continues to -be my partner in taxidermy. We are planning to stop at Dutch Harbor -next winter. - -April 12.--Busy days are beginning to come and I have less time for -my diary. We get more sunshine than is convenient. To-day is cooler, -fifteen degrees below zero again. We used to think there wasn't much -snow in this country, but are learning our mistake. It snows every -day and is three feet deep on a level. The doctor and I spent the -last four days at the Jesse Lou Camp. I got thirty-eight birds and a -porcupine skin. Miller and I are hard at work upon them. The doctor -is laid up with snow blindness again. We had a feast at Jesse Lou -on porcupine, boiled, roasted and stewed. It is like veal and fine -eating. An Indian shot it. Many people are traveling on the river, so -as to get as far as the Mission before the ice breaks up. Scurvy is -on the increase. Two more men have died of it at Ambler City. Four -at the Iowa cabins are down with it. None of us are in the least -affected. Brownie is cook now and we have plenty to eat. Miller and -I have begun trading some of our bird skins for personal supplies -for next winter at Dutch Harbor. We traded a pair of ptarmigan for -a sack of flour and fourteen pounds of bacon to-day. We can get -almost anything we ask in trade for bird skins, but money is scarce. -After tramping all day have just had a magnificent dinner. Here, as -elsewhere, something to eat is the first need. The doctor and I have -had fine success. Got twenty-three rock ptarmigan. But we are tired -and the poor doctor is attacked again. He is at this moment applying -a solution of boracic acid to his eyes. I continue unaffected. We are -sun-burned as dark as natives. For a while I burnt-corked my face, -but no need of it now. I wear a broad-brimmed, black slouch hat, -drawn close over my eyes, and find it better than snow-glasses. - -April 15.--Twenty degrees below zero. The Indians say that in the -last thirteen years there were three summers when the ice never -melted out of Kotzebue Sound at all. And they say this is just -like those years, no snow until late. When the snow comes early it -prevents the water and the ground from freezing so deep. Men are -beginning to worry about our condition. The ice in the river is seven -feet thick, and there isn't snow enough to float out all the ice when -it melts, so they say. Last winter there were seven or eight feet of -snow, and now only two or three feet. It does look dreary for those -who are in a hurry to get out. - -I was out to-day on snowshoes. I like them. One acquires a long, -sliding gait that is very easy. On the ridge back of the Guardian -Camp I had a fine view of the country north and west. The snow is -drifted over the west side of the ridges by the east winds, forming -great shelving banks with protruding crests twenty to forty feet -above their bases. We are getting almost enough sunshine to start -a thaw. Miller has gone to Ambler City in the interests of our new -"firm." He will look after the jays in that vicinity. - -I had almost forgotten to record the latest excitement. The "Flying -Dutchman" arrived Thursday from St. Michaels. He has a dog team and -is hurrying on up the river, expecting to return to Cape Nome before -the thaw comes. The news he brought is of a "big strike" at Cape -Nome on the coast near Sledge Island. "Richer than Klondike." Three -men took out $600 in "ten hours." There may be some truth in it, as -this is about the place Van Dyke was to take us to. But I am hard to -convert to any gold proposition now. I shall have to see it to fully -believe it. All are excited over this rumor, but it is useless to -think of travel. We got a letter from the "Penelope" crew stating -that Harry Reynolds and Jett had already started for the new gold -fields. They took grub and a team of dogs, so our company will be -represented at Cape Nome. I am afraid to think there is something -in it. It excites one unduly after the disappointments of a year. -The "Flying Dutchman" says flour is ten dollars a sack at Cape Nome -and other things to eat as high. We heard that C. C. and party had -reached the Kotzebue camp after a hard pull. Rivers and Clyde gave -out and had to be hauled to camp. Several were snow blind. They had -hired two Eskimos to draw the sled to the schooner. Such is life in -the Arctics. - -April 19, Wednesday. 9 p. m.--Two men came in from Ambler City to-day -with frozen feet. We rubbed the frost pretty well out with snow, but -they will be laid up for a month and one of them may lose his toes. -The nights are cold, fifteen to twenty degrees below zero. By noon it -is thawing. A man's socks and boots become soaked with perspiration -and, as the afternoon advances, the temperature falls and the wet -footgear freezes. Then, too, in many places the river ice cracks and -the water flows up through and soaks into the snow so that a traveler -steps through into the slush and water deep enough to fill his shoes. -Before camp is reached the feet freeze. The Cape Nome excitement is -spreading and many are starting overland with light loads for the new -diggings. Our neighbors of the Iowa cabin are getting ready and eight -will start to-morrow. None of us here feel called upon to attempt the -trip. - -We have received news through other channels than the one mentioned -in regard to the Cape Nome district. It looks more hopeful. Captain -Ingraham, who was up the Kowak last tall, is on the grounds, and -has staked several claims. He took $158 out of three prospect pans. -Hundreds of men are rushing into the country. There are fights over -claims and two men are shot. Miller returned from Ambler City Monday -with eight ptarmigan. We have put up the skins in fine shape. - -[Illustration: Looking Northward.] - -April 22. Saturday.--It is snowing heavily this morning, with a -strong north gale. The doctor went down to the Hanson Camp yesterday, -expecting to return to-day, but he hasn't arrived yet. I feel anxious -about him, it is so easy to get lost. This cold will put a stop for -a while to the Camp Nome procession. Men have been passing down the -river every day, and we have lots of visitors for meals and to stay -all night. John Miller, the man with the frozen feet, is still with -us and probably will be, for he has no other place to go. His feet -are in bad shape; great blisters run across them, and he suffers. Dr. -Gleaves is back from his trip to the Agnes Boyd Camp, and is about -starting for Cape Nome. It is very interesting and amusing to those -who stay at home to note the efforts and trials of the poor people -toiling along the trail. Most of them start out with two or three -hundred pounds apiece, but they lighten their load each day until it -is reduced to one hundred and fifty pounds. I am convinced myself, -from what the Eskimos tell us, that it is useless to start for Cape -Nome now. It will thaw before half the distance is covered. By the -route generally traveled it is about four hundred miles from here. -Yesterday a snow-flake came hopping about the woodpile on the sunny -side of the cabin--the first arrival from the South. It spends the -winter as far south as the northern tier of the United States, where -it is the familiar snow-bird. - -A man up the river sent down the left hind foot of a "snowshoe -rabbit" to be stuffed. He had the tendons pulled apart so that by -pulling on them the toes were moved. He wants the foot preserved in -some way so that this mechanism will remain and the toes move by -pulling an invisible string. Don't know as I can do it. - -April 25.--We finished putting up our ptarmigan yesterday and have -more on hand now. The past few days are warm, with southeast winds. I -started out this morning but found the snow too sticky and soft. It -clings to the snowshoes like lead weights. It is uncomfortably warm. - -We think the main part of the Cape Nome rush has passed us. Several -went by this forenoon from as far up as the Riley Camp. Saturday -night at ten o'clock two fellows got in from Ambler City. The boys -had all retired but Miller and me, so we got them their supper. They -had come thirty miles that day, pulling a sled, and were nearly -ready to drop from exhaustion, when they got inside. Sunday at 2 p. -m. eight more arrived. They came staggering into the cabin, groping -their way to the nearest seat, almost dead. Nearly all were snow -blind to a more or less extent. One fellow's eyes were paining him -so that he sobbed and cried like a child. The crowd spent the night. -Saturday night it had snowed ten inches. Unless we get a hard freeze -to make a crust I doubt if these men can reach the Mission even. - -We have to entertain so many visitors that it is getting tiresome -naturally. I judge we have fed sixty men in the past week, or at -least have served that many meals. We call our camp the "Penelope -Inn." or "Cape Nome Recuperating Station." John Miller is getting -well rapidly and can stand on his feet to-day. They are sloughing. -Several men we know are down with the mumps. We have all been exposed. - -April 29. Saturday.--An Indian arrived with letters from the schooner -"Penelope." C. C.'s party arrived all right. C. C.'s letter confirms -the Cape Nome report, and he and Cox. Fancher. Alec and Driggs are to -start in a couple of days from date. If they reach there all right, -it will make seven of us on the ground. That left only the captain, -with Rivers and Clyde, on the schooner, so C. C. suggested that -Miller and Brown from this camp make all possible haste to get there, -that they may assist at the breaking up of the ice. - -It didn't take the two boys long to decide, and yesterday they -spent in remodeling an old sled and making up as light an outfit as -possible. They left at four o'clock this morning with a one hundred -and fifty pound sled load, and, if the weather continues cold enough -to keep the present crust on the snow, they ought to make the trip in -twelve days. That leaves only Uncle Jimmy, Dr. Coffin and myself to -take care of the stuff at this camp. If anything should happen to the -"Helen" above, we should have some experience in raft building and -getting down the river as best we could. It is lonesome, only three -out of the original twenty, and after having had so many neighbors, -too, who are mostly gone. The latest word from further up was that -our boys are at work on the "Helen" digging her out of the ice, and -she is so far all right. The "Agnes E. Boyd," which was buried in -a glacier creek during the winter, stands little chance of being -saved. So also with the "Hero." The firm of "Miller & Grinnell" have -disassociated on account of Miller's "summons," but if the Cape Nome -prospect fails, as I think very likely, we will join again as soon as -we meet and prepare to spend the winter at Dutch Harbor. Miller will -collect birds down in the Sound this spring. With Miller and Rivers -at work there, and myself here, I ought to get a good collection by -spring. Dr. Coffin does a good deal of shooting. Out of every five -birds he brings in good condition. I skin one for him. That rate is -favorable for us both. He already has a box full and by spring will -have quite a collection. I am getting a good deal of freight on my -hands. It is bulky. I keep the neighborhood gleaned of empty boxes -of all sorts. I am very short of cotton, either for wrapping or -stuffing. I use dry hay and moss for even the smaller birds now. - -Last week the doctor and I took a long tramp, staying out all night. -When we started we had no idea of being away twenty-four hours and -only had a light lunch, consisting of a little corned beef, four half -slices of bread and butter, a dozen walnuts, a handful of raisins, -and some malted milk tablets. And this was all we had for four meals. -The doctor says it is good for a person's health for him to fast -occasionally, and I am certain that this opportunity ought to fully -demonstrate the assertion. But I do not think my health demands -any further treatment of the same nature. We kept going farther -from home, hunting for likely places for ptarmigan and other birds, -until we got pretty tired; so we thought it a good time to try the -experiment of sleeping out on the snow with no protection whatever. I -do not say we were lost. Gold-hunters are never lost. - -We lived through the experiment. We did not sleep more than half an -hour all the time put together. We had to keep "flopping" over to -keep one side from freezing and the other from roasting. We built a -fire against a spruce in a dense patch of woods. The snow was beaten -down in front of it, and a mass of spruce boughs gathered and formed -into a real comfortable-looking nest. This kept us from contact -with the snow, but allowed of a too free circulation of fresh air. -A number of decayed trees in the vicinity afforded fuel for the -fire with little trouble on our part, our hunting knives being the -only tool we had carried with us. Once during the night I had dozed -off very reluctantly when the doctor happened to notice the smell -of burning wool. A spark of fire had snapped out and lighted on -the front of my jumper, where, in less time than it takes to write -it, it had eaten through my clothes, including my sateen shirt and -undershirt, and was progressing towards my vitals when the doctor -rang up the fire department. I was awakened by a sudden application -of cold on my diaphragm and the loud tones of my companion, who -declared he did not come to the Arctics to be burnt to death. In -spite of the sleepless night we enjoyed everything. We started again -at three o'clock in the morning, after a breakfast consisting of two -walnuts apiece, a dozen milk tablets and a few raisins. The doctor -wanted to roast some of the birds we had shot the day before, but I -would sooner starve than spoil such rare things as Alaskan three-toed -wood-peckers, hawk owls, Alaskan jays, and white-winged crossbills. -I should think anyone would. On a hillside where the snow had been -nearly all blown off and the sun had thawed the rest, we found a -large bare place. The mosses and lichens looked just as fresh and -green as if it were midsummer, and, growing close on the ground, -were lots of last year's berries, all the more sweet and juicy -for their eight months' cold storage. The ptarmigan were on hand, -too, and I shot two old roosters. The male ptarmigan are changing -now, and specimens shot show some beautiful mixtures of the bright -brown summer plumage and the snow-white winter plumage. The willow -ptarmigan are all in pairs, and, though mostly shy, may be located -by the loud cackling of the males. A very good crust on the snow -makes snowshoeing a delight for a few hours, but, like any walking, -it grows tiresome. One's feet get worn and blistered where the -foot-straps work. If the snow is damp it balls on the center lacing -and a blister is raised before one knows it. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - -May 6, Saturday, 8 p. m.--This is the strangest May weather I have -ever experienced. The wind has blown a gale from the north without a -moment's cessation for four days. It is twenty-five degrees below the -freezing point. I was in the vicinity of the Hanson Camp yesterday, -but got no birds. I saw only one pair of chickadees and one redpoll. -They were never so scarce all winter as now. The natives assure me -that a change is due shortly, and then there will be "emik apazh," -and the "ting emeruk" will come. - -The Hanson boys came near getting me into serious trouble yesterday. -It was one of Joe Jury's jokes. When I left his cabin I started back -into the woods. Nolan, of the Sunnyside, called in. Joe told him that -I had reported seeing two caribou across the river on the way down. -Joe garnished the tale with a few extra details, and Nolan left for -Sunnyside pretty well excited. He got nearly everyone in camp out -before noon. I happened along on their trail about four o'clock, and -the first fellow I met was Nolan, just returning from a long tramp. -He informed me that he had seen the caribou tracks (?) and wanted -to know where I had last seen the animals. I was taken by surprise -and told him that I hadn't seen a caribou in Alaska. It then dawned -on Nolan that he had been the victim of a joke, and he was somewhat -"beside himself." I tried to explain matters by telling him that I -had said to Joe Jury something about having seen "ptarmigan." which -no doubt he had taken for "caribou." The rest of the fellows took the -joke all right, but said they would "get even" with Joe some way. One -man fired his rifle at a target and split the barrel over two-thirds -its length, owing to snow in the end, I suppose. The gun was ruined -and so the joke was a costly one. - -There is a string telephone between two cabins at Sunnyside which is -a real novelty. The box resonators in each cabin are fixed up with -features like a human face with a tin mouth. It was exceedingly funny -to see the expression on the faces of the natives when they first -heard that box "talk." Greenberg was talking in at the other end, -and they recognized his voice. One old woman fled in terror. She -thought it was a "doonak" (evil spirit). It is no wonder these things -frighten the Eskimos so. Doubtless our own ancestors would have been -burned at the stake by their townspeople for witchcraft in the early -days of New England had they dared to make a tin box "talk." - -I bought eighteen pounds of No. 8 shot for $1.20 at the Hanson Camp. -It took me nearly three hours to bring it three miles against the -wind. I had no snowshoes, as I had let Brownie have mine when he -started for the schooner. The extra weight was just enough to make -me break through the crust every five steps, and down I went to my -knees. That eighteen pounds grew to one hundred pounds before I -reached home. - -John Miller, the cripple, has moved over to one of the Iowa cabins, -so we are alone for the first time in many weeks. Only three of us. -We cannot use all the game we shoot now, and I am rather glad to have -the opportunity of giving it to the hungry natives. I do not waste a -bird body. I give some of them to Charley for his mickaninies, and -he loans me his snowshoes whenever I want them for hunting. At first -the boys dubbed me "the bird fiend," but they have quit that now. Too -many scurvy victims have blessed me for the ptarmigan which, in some -cases, have been all the fresh meat obtainable, not to mention our -own possible suffering had it not been for the birds I shot. And now -I do not object at all to the wordless thanks of these poor natives, -who devour every scrap of a bird of any sort, excepting the skin, -which only I claim. I save souls, bird skins being the only visible -or invisible soul of which the creatures are possessed. - -We have just learned of a superstition which is the most cruel of any -noted among these strange people. It has roused our civilized horror. -A very pretty little girl about thirteen years old, who has been the -pet of the camps all winter, and whom the boys have looked upon as a -"little sister," has been shut up all by herself in a small snow cave -back in the woods. There she is doomed to stay until the snow melts, -without speaking to anyone or leaving her cramped position, with no -fire and with only such cold food as may be brought to her. And she -must live alone in such an igloo for one year, so their statutes -decree. This is the law concerning all Kowak-mitt women when they are -supposed to have reached marriageable age. - -This is but the beginning of the little woman's punishments, which -will be many and varied from this date. - -The "cabloonas" around this vicinity are very much incensed over -this new superstitious cruelty. To demonstrate our convictions in -the matter, eight of us armed ourselves with guns, marched over to -the village and demanded that old Omechuck and his wife, Atungena, -Kalhak's parents, take the child back into their igloo. The man -laid all the blame on the mother and grand-mother (as it was in -the beginning), and we had a big wrangle. We informed them that if -they did not end this and other cruelties, and liberate the girl by -to-morrow noon, we would come over in a great body and tear down the -cave and take her away. They were pretty well frightened. It gave -us lots of fun, though we didn't change our austere countenances. -We meant what we said. Uncle Jimmy headed the expedition. He had a -great big knife belted on, and we all presented a dangerous front. -What if the Eskimos had taken it seriously and mobbed us? Mobbing is -not their tendency. They are gentle in spite of other things, and -were actually in fear of our threats. We are not sure of the full -extent of our influence, but we stirred them up and they may conclude -that this "missionary association" of gold-hunters is not here for -nothing. Later the girl was released. - -May 14, Sunday.--Spring is breaking the winter's reign at last. The -snow has almost disappeared from the sand-dunes and is softening -everywhere. Little pools of water are appearing in the low places. A -gentle rain is falling, the first since last September--eight months. -The days of slush and water are upon us, but oh, such exciting days -for me! The first geese and gulls have arrived, very shy and very -few, and I saw two swans. They stay about the muddy places across the -river. I got a fairly good shot at a goose, but missed it. Everyone -is after the poor geese and lots of rifle balls are wasted, with -never a goose as yet. I shot a solitary glaucus-winged gull sitting -on the ice, with a thirty-calibre Winchester rifle at 143 yards -range. The bullet went straight through the neck, cutting a very -clean way, and the skin made a beautiful specimen. Yesterday was my -red-letter day. I found, almost by accident, a jay's nest and eggs, -the thing I have been looking for so constantly for three months. I -also found a fine set of hawk owls--six eggs, three newly-hatched -young and both parents. The nest was in a hole in a rotten spruce -stub about twelve feet above the snow. When I tapped on the tree the -male, which was sitting, left the nest and flew away about a hundred -feet, turned and made for my head as straight and swift as an arrow, -planting himself full force, and drawing blood from three claw marks -in my scalp. My hat was knocked about twelve feet and the crown torn -out. All this the owl did without stopping in its swoop. I recovered -myself just in time to receive a second charge and had to dodge clear -to the ground. When the courageous defender of home and country -turned for its third attack a charge of No. 10 met it, and it died -an honorable death, deserving to be ranked among heroes. I have the -entire set preserved. - -I have a flock of white-winged crossbills spotted in a spruce forest -ten miles away, which I expect will nest in a couple of weeks, but -I doubt if I can reach the place, now the snow is going. I wore -snowshoes nest-hunting yesterday, but probably for the last time -this year. It is far easier snowshoeing over the snowy tundras than -walking through the peat and water and "nigger heads" after the snow -is gone. - -[Illustration: The Prisoner We Rescued.] - -May 21, Sunday.--Uncle Jimmy and Dr. Coffin still keep up the Sunday -services. Three of the Iowa men and half a dozen Eskimos have come -in. As I have just finished a bird I thought it a good idea to desist -until after church, on Uncle Jimmy's account. So, until singing -begins, I will have a little time to write. I cannot afford to waste -a second these days. Most of the snow is gone. All the ponds and -sloughs are full of water and the river has risen fully eight feet. - -All the slush ice has gone, but the thick winter ice is on top and -extends unbroken down the middle of the river. The Eskimos say that -if the warm weather and high water continue this ice will break -up and float away very soon. And then it would be "finis" to bird -collecting, for the steamers would whistle and we would all have -to pack up and start. I am just living in dread of the "Helen." I -would not cry should she spring a leak or otherwise disable herself, -so that she would be laid up until the last of June. This is a -wicked thought and I repent of it. Solitary sandpipers and Baird's -sandpipers are here, and I know they will nest by the middle of -June. Small birds are beginning to arrive. I heard the beautiful -song of the fox sparrow for the first time this morning, also the -tree sparrows and varied thrush. I saw a single robin yesterday with -its familiar call note. We have goose dinners galore, but the geese -are lean and tough, far from such eating as they were in the fall. -We prefer duck and ptarmigan. The doctor has made some very nice -cranberry jelly from the berries which have been stored on the vines -under the snow all winter. The native women and children picked over -two gallons yesterday, which they brought to us. - -[Illustration: The Kowak Breaking Up.] - -May 24.--The Kowak is breaking up and it is a tremendous sight. The -water has risen until it is on a level with the bank on this side, -and on the opposite side it is spreading out over the tundras. It is -covered completely from side to side with a crunching, grinding mass -of ice from three to five feet thick. Yesterday there was a jam on a -sand-bar below and the ice course was stopped. Then that from above -came down with force, crushing and piling into great ridges of blue -and green blocks from ten to fifteen feet in height. There must be a -tremendous momentum in a moving field of ice. In one place a field -many yards in diameter was forced up a steep bank until it toppled -over on itself. The banks are plowed by the resistless stream and -trees are broken off like threads. - -Indian Charley borrowed our kyak, which belongs to Rivers, three days -ago to go up and look after a birch canoe which he wanted to carry -out of reach of the ice. He was only going as far as the Guardian -Camp, and there was plenty of water along the edges there. He was -expected back the same day, but has not returned yet. We fear he -has lost his life. His father, an old, withered man, who smoked -himself last winter when Charley was sick, walks the river bank all -day watching, and yesterday afternoon cried and howled a long time, -mourning "Kayuruk" who, he said, was surely "mucky" (dead). I saw a -birch canoe yesterday crushed and lying on a passing cake of ice. - -If this was Charley's he must have met with misfortune. One would -think that a native, who has experienced many such occurrences, -would know enough to keep out of harm's way. Night before last a -couple of the Iowa boys spent two or three hours tramping through -the swamp looking for ducks which they kept hearing. But they were -not able to catch sight of the authors of the numerous "quacks," -which always lured them to greater distance. To-day, after telling -everyone of the strange birds, the boys are being "joshed" in true -camp fashion. The bullfrogs are appearing in every pond and to-day -one has begun his warble in a pool a few feet from the door. We did -not expect to see frogs so far north. I fail to see how they resemble -the quacking of ducks, but some imagine the sound to be the same. -The first mosquitoes are abroad, just a few, a sort of "foretaste," -according to Scripture. The birds are arriving in large numbers, like -a stampede, and the woods are full of the songs of robins, thrushes, -sparrows and warblers. I am working hard, too. - -May 31.--Oh, but spring is lovely! I am sure I never spent three -such happy weeks, and I have been happy all my life. Yet I have -been working hard, some days until I was tired enough to drop. Last -week I went up to the mountains and was gone forty-three hours, -with only about one hour's sleep. We tramped fifteen miles across -the tundra with heavy rubber boots on, sinking into the moss and -among the "nigger heads" every step. And then through streams, and -snow, and tangles of brush. The second day it rained heavily and we -started home at 7 p. m., tramping until midnight, when we reached a -point where we had left our boat in a slough about two miles below -on the opposite side of the Kowak. While we had been gone the river -had fallen and the heavy boat was high and dry. We had to drag it -through a narrow channel over mud and grass a hundred yards to the -river. And then there was a stiff east wind and a swift current -to cross the river against, and we finally had to tow up to the -Landing. There were four of us, including Dr. Coffin, who has been -my companion in many of these bird hunts, so soon, alas! to be over. -I was so tired when I got in that I fell asleep half undressed and -without supper. But I obtained what I went for, and it was worth the -hardships--white-winged crossbill's nests. Young, an Iowa man who was -with us, fell to his chest in a narrow stream of ice water, and we -were all soaked from the rain and dripping under-brush. - -The river is entirely free of ice now and people are starting down. -Many are passing every day, but they will be unable to go farther -than the delta, for the Sound doesn't clear earlier than July 1. - -We have heard that the "Helen" is all right and is expected down in -a day or two. She may get stuck on a sand-bar. If so I shall have a -week longer for the birds. We have been packing all day. I have a -good deal of stuff in bulk, though not heavy. I wouldn't blame the -boys if they "kicked." We may have to make two trips from here down. -We learned that our barge, which we left last fall on the bank of the -Squirrel River eighty miles below us, was burned last winter, so our -carrying capacity is limited. The steamer "Riley" has been repaired. -She came up as far as the Hanson Camp yesterday. Indian Charley has -turned up all safe. He has been down to a village below, gambling for -another wife. - -According to the Eskimos I am to die before the snow is all melted -off, because I robbed that jay's nest. Grass is springing up, and -last night, while I was strolling through the woods, I found a -patch of crocuses. The woods were beautiful, the long, deep shadows -contrasting with the yellow sunlight. The silence was intense, -and yet there were many sounds--the quavering song of the thrush, -breaking out and then dying back; the chorus of frogs from a distant -pond, and the occasional demoniacal laugh of a loon. Yet it was -silence broken in pieces. The scene from the sand-dunes north across -the river was most beautiful. I wish I were able to depict the scene -as I perceived it and the indescribable sensations it awakened. I -wonder if I were the same age as Uncle Jimmy if I would be impressed -the same way. It is something for me to remember all my life, this -wonderful winter on the mighty Kowak. And I must bid it "Good-by." - -We had a regular thunder storm to-day, with a heavy shower which -set the roof to leaking, in spite of the tents stretched over it. -Dr. Coffin has inaugurated a new decoration. It denotes rank of -vice-president of the L. B. A. M. & T. Co. A double row of safety -pins up his shirt front. There are only three of this illustrious -company at present in the "Penelope" cabin, but all the more need of -distinctive decorations. - -B., the partially demented individual who might have died of scurvy -last winter if we hadn't drawn up his "will" for him, is the source -of amusement to us, with his various tricks. He spends most of his -time on the river bank watching for passing boats. He hails everyone -with a mixed set of questions; first, "Have you any white lead for -sale?" second. "Did you have the scurvy?" third, "Where'd you come -from?" etc., until the boat is out of hearing. B. has a skiff he is -very proud of, and he threatens anyone who touches it. I am on very -good terms with him and he tells me whenever he sees a goose on the -river (usually it is a loon). He makes a noise in his throat like a -chicken disturbed after it has gone to roost. I do not know what will -become of him. He is perfectly harmless. - -This evening I traded three pounds of raisins for a sailor bag. I -have more clothes now than when I left San Francisco, enough to last -me five years. Dr. Coffin is a real convert. He is himself a "bird -fiend" now, after starting that nickname for me in the beginning, -he thinks of stopping this summer at Dutch Harbor. If it keeps on I -shall have the whole crew. I think we shall pull out from the company -entirely and so escape the turmoil of the ultimate disbandment. There -is little hope of realizing from the trip, even on the "Penelope." -She cost us enough in the first place, but who knows where she is now? - -I just now thought I heard the whistle of the "Helen." There is -nothing in sight. That "Helen" haunts me. She it is who will bear -me away from this fascinating region. By the way, she has a fine -whistle. A better one than any other boat on the river. Perhaps we -can trade that whistle for something, even if nobody will accept -the gift of the boat and engines. Oh. I forgot; there's Cape Nome. -The boys there may have staked out rich claims for us by this time. -However. I would be willing to trade all my stock in the L. B. A. M. -& T. Co. for some plaster-of-paris, cotton batting and some arsenic. - -June 6.--My Last date on the Kowak. The "Helen" arrived on the -evening of the 2d. She is O. K. and the eight boys well. They brought -down with them a man who is afflicted with black-leg, too helpless to -leave. We shall take him to the Mission, so we are now quite a large -family. Nearly everyone above has already passed down the river in -all sorts of boats and rafts. We have persuaded the rest to remain -here a few days, as it will be impossible to get into the Sound -so early. We are having a little more time for game. I have taken -several sets of rare eggs, and have a number of nests "spotted." But -the boys are getting restless and I fear we will have to pull out -to-morrow or next day. We are living "high." A varied assortment -was served up in the fricassee yesterday--ten old-squaws (ducks), -a curlew, two ptarmigan, one loon and a blackbird. Indian Charley -brought us twenty fish, so we have plenty of fresh meat, a welcome -change of diet for the boys of the upper winter camp, as they have -not been afflicted with a bird fiend in their crowd. - -[Illustration: Some Friends We Left Behind.] - -The steamer "Agnes Boyd" was saved from the ice, but is now high and -dry on a sand-bar and the river is still falling. The Hanson boys are -having a peck of trouble and the prospects are now that they will -not get out until the August rains come. I was out collecting until -one a. m. night before last, and the pink sunlight never left the -mountain peaks. The trees are nearly full foliaged to a beautiful -fresh green, and several varieties of flowers are in bloom. It is too -bad to be compelled to leave here just at this season. I certainly -can never regret leaving a place or home so much. But such is life. -We hesitate moving always. And yet who knows but there may be better -prospects further on? It is with something of a lump in my throat -and heart that I turn my back on what has been the scene of such -wonderful experiences to me. Still I must say it, "Good-by, old -Kowak, good-by!" Good-by, mice, little redbacks; good-by, sand-dunes -and tundras, winter, spruces, birches, cabin, all. Good-by, Eskimos, -funny people, who have a kind heart in a little, brown, superstitious -body. Here's the deserted village for missionary souls, houses, -woodpiles, pictures yet pinned on the walls, echoes of Sunday -services and literary societies--and voices of gold hunters. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - -June 12.--We are steaming down one of the numerous channels of the -Kowak delta, and I am sitting on the upper deck of the "Helen." The -channel is narrow but deep and very tortuous. Half an hour ago we -were going in an exactly opposite direction. The banks are low and -are lined continuously with willows whose branches have not even -budded out, although up the river we left the trees in full foliage, -thus indicating the season to be much later along the coast than in -the interior. We have met no ice in the stream, but there is plenty -stranded on the bars. Some Indians told us to-day there will be -plenty of ice in the inlet for many sleeps yet, but our boys want -to see for themselves. I think it a great mistake to have left the -timber so early. We left our winter home on the 8th of June and -traveled three days. Yesterday we tied up all day at the last timber -and I put in the time collecting. I obtained eight sets of eggs, a -little brown crane skin put up, greasy as a duck, besides several -small birds. I put in every minute on shore and am getting some good -things,--sets of varied thrush, gray-cheeked thrush, etc. - -We got a good deal of game yesterday. Everything that has meat on -it goes into the pot. The fricassee to-day consisted of a crane, -two ducks and a loon, all cut up and boiled together. Jesse Farrar -is cook; Stevenson is fireman; Casey, engineer; Wilson and Foote, -pilots; Shafer, Shaul, Uncle Jimmy and I, deck hands; the doctor and -Colclough comprise the fire department. - -And this last is a very important organization. Sparks from the -smoke stacks catch on sacks or anything inflammable and soon start -a smudge. The fire department immediately "smell smoke." and -extinguish the conflagration with a teacup of water. The usual seat -of combustion is Casey's jumper. Then the back of the boiler gets -almost red hot and several planks get to scorching, and even some of -the cargo is in danger. With its other duties the department has put -in ventilators, so we have less trouble. The crowd is in very good -spirits. The quartette is frequently heard, and just before bed-time -Foote gets out his banjo. - -This morning we passed a camp of natives. Six of their kyaks came out -and followed us a long way. They could sail circles around the scow. -They are very dextrous with their funny craft, just before leaving us -they sang in chorus "There'll Be a Hot Time." Evidences of the great -Kotzebue rush will be found among the Eskimos, in their language as -well as in other ways, for many years to come. - -A cold west wind from off the sea ice blows constantly, and the -weather is not to be compared with what we left at "home." My sorrow -at leaving the cabin does not lessen. The "Helen" is loaded very -heavily, but we managed to get everything on. We have great times -keeping her on an even keel. The order. "Everyone go aft," or, -"Everyone go forward," is frequently heard. She only stuck on a bar -once coming down, and then there wasn't much trouble in getting her -off. That is one thing in which our steamer excels many others. It is -difficult to make her run aground hard enough to stick. She doesn't -move fast enough. The wheel has been enlarged, but it makes little -difference in her speed; the engines are not large enough. Stevenson -keeps from 150 to 175 pounds of steam in her boiler, which is really -more than ought to be carried for safety. It is getting cold up here -on deck, and I am going down to the boiler-room to warm up. - -June 18.--This is Sunday and Uncle Jimmy thinks I ought to do -something besides skin birds all day, so probably the most righteous -act would be to write in my mother's diary. It is a very disagreeable -day. It has snowed heavily all day, melting as fast as it falls and -sticking to everything. We have the big 12 × 20 tent up among the -spruces, and the cooking range keeps the interior quite pleasant. - -The crowd has been in the tent all day singing and reading, while I -have one end of the long table for "the morgue." The Iowa party is -camped near us, and their launch "Iowa" takes trips every other day -to the inlet ten miles down the river, to see the state of the ice. -Shaul went down with her yesterday, but they report the ice packed -firmly in the inlet and as far as they could see towards Kotzebue -Sound. We are camped in the timber at the mouth of the Kowak. A -couple of warm days last week brought a foretaste of the mosquito -scourge which we expect, but they do not promise to bother me much. -Dr. Coffin is so kind to me. He hunts birds' eggs and gives me more -than my share. Even Uncle Jimmy hunts nests in the woods, having -located five for me in the last two days. Some of the good things -we have taken are the little brown cranes, black-throated loon. -Hudsonian curlew and scaup duck. We were out over the tundra all -day yesterday and did not get back until this morning. I remembered -that it was my little brother's birthday (the one who is so fond of -insects), and I managed to catch two butterflies with my hat for him. -I saw several, but they were pretty active, and it is hard running -over the mossy hummocks and bogs after them. I shot a crane yesterday -and the doctor got one a few days before. They are fine eating, -better than any birds except ptarmigan. We have two seines, and -Casey. Shafer and Foote comprise the fishery department. Dr. Coffin -and I keep the camp in game, so we have plenty of fresh meat. We got -three dozen duck eggs one day, and now Shafer makes fine cookies and -doughnuts. I blow all the fresh eggs, and the contents are therefore -all ready for "scrambles" or baking. - -We are a jolly crowd and no one would believe us to be disappointed -gold-hunters. The main occupation of this branch of the L. B. A. M. -& T. Co. at present is bird-nesting. I hope we have to stay here two -weeks Day and night are all the same to us nowadays. I seldom get to -bed before one a. m., and am up for breakfast at eight. The snow is -beginning to stay this evening and the landscape is whitening. This -is such weather as the old Arctic explorers met with all summer when -they suffered so much from exposure, but a warm, dry tent like ours, -with plenty of wood, keeps us comfortable and very far from martyrs -to the "cause." The winds are very chilly, and I really suffered more -from cold last night as we were sailing up the river to camp than I -did all last winter. It is hard to keep one's feet dry. If I wear hip -boots I am sure to step into some hole in a swamp and get them full. -One time I went in to my waist by surprise when I was wading in the -edge of a pond after a grebe's nest. For an instant I was deprived -of speech, which was a great hardship. The ice is getting "rotten" -rapidly, with the heavy winds breaking it up. - -[Illustration: Steamer on the River.] - -Kowak Delta, Sunday. June 25.--I am sitting on a heap of spruce -boughs before an open fire in the woods. There is a heavy wind -blowing and the tents and steamer at the river bank are altogether -too airy. This is a much more sheltered and comfortable spot. We have -been at this camp two weeks, but will probably pull out to-morrow and -go down to the mouth of the river, and, as soon as the weather is -favorable, go across the dreaded Holtham Inlet and on to the Mission. -The launch "Iowa" reports the ice breaking up at the river mouth and -moving out. For a while there was quite a large community of tents -along the river each side of ours, but they have all started down -now. The "Agnes Boyd" passed us, having been laid up on a bar several -days. She brought the sad news of the death of Jack Messing, one of -the San Jose crew of the Hanson Camp. He was found dead in his bed -on the steamer. Five other men were sleeping with him, but noticed -nothing unnatural until they attempted to arouse him for breakfast. -Jack was a sociable, good-hearted fellow, and many were the pleasant -visits exchanged between him and members of our camp last winter. It -is reported that an Indian shot two white men over on the Selawik -this spring. As the natives tell the story, the Indian was entirely -justified. They forced him to mend a sled at the muzzle of a -revolver, and scared him so that he finally tried to run away. They -picked up rifles and started after him. But he got behind a tree with -his own rifle and anticipated them to the number of one man. Many men -are still crippled with the scurvy. On the Pick River fifty-two men -out of sixty were down with black-leg. The schooner "Life" wintered -near Selawik Lake with nine men aboard. Missionary Samms received -word by the Eskimos that these men were sick with the scurvy and were -helpless. So he set out to their aid. He returned a few days ago, -reporting that five out of the nine had died and the other four were -recovering. It is an awful disease, and many more have perished from -that cause than from disaster or accident. It is strange that our -company has escaped so far all such mishaps, but we are not out of -danger yet. As we see them, the general run of people are impatient -to get home, are cross and quarrelsome. Many are the "scraps" and -differences among companies. It is a common thing to hear men cursing -each other bitterly over such trivialities as loading a boat or -setting up a tent. Sometimes partners will divide their supplies, -even breaking a spoon or knife in two to "make it even." I am glad -to say that our crowd is remarkably free from such things. The usual -sounds are of singing and joviality. The doctor and I have frequent -friendly word fights over such topics as, "Which way the wind blows -to bring rain." whether a "light object floats down stream as fast -as a heavy one;" or, "how close to the wind we can sail the boat." -But if there Is one of us assailed on any point by anyone else we -both agree at once, and bring consternation to the ranks of the -enemy. Someone made the statement the other day that a razor becomes -sharper if left for a while unused, and every man except the doctor -and myself was of the same mind. Think of such a tradition in this -enlightened age! Several maintained that for that reason they kept -two razors, using them alternate weeks. When we especially feel the -need of mental exercise, the doctor and I argue on physical and -mental evolution, and on this subject the other boys let us alone for -good reasons. - -Last night the doctor. Casey and I went hunting, and did not return -before 2 a. m. this morning. We started about four and went up a -slough until we came to open tundra. It began storming about eight -and blew and rained heavily all night. We had agreed to be back to -the skiff by nine, and Casey and I were on hand before that time, but -the doctor did not appear. In spite of our oil coats we were soon wet -and shivering. After waiting a while and hearing no shooting which -might announce the doctor's approach, we set out and walked to where -he was last seen by us at the edge of a lake, but could discover no -sign. We began to be alarmed and, returning to the slough, spent a -couple of the most miserable hours. We managed to start a fire at the -foot of a solitary scrub spruce and were speculating gloomily as to -what might have happened, when we heard a distant shot. The doctor -came wearily tramping across the tundra, and was more happy than we -to get back to the boat. He had become mixed up among some sloughs -and lakes. He had followed around a large lake several miles, only to -find progress stopped by a slough joining that lake with another. He -then retraced his steps to his first starting point and began over -again. His boots were full of water and he was of course drenched, -for he had left his oil coat at the boat. When we got home we were -glad to find Shafer up and a warm tent. He got us a hot supper and -to-day we are none the worse. The doctor got an old goose with her -four downy young. I found a set of pin-tail's eggs and shot some -ducks and a ptarmigan. - -The tundra is curiously marked off in many places by ridges and -ditches running at right angles to one another. The ditches are full -of water, and the tundra resembles a California alfalfa field laid -off in squares by irrigating ditches. I cannot think of a cause for -this formation. The numerous lakes and ponds are many of them higher -than the surrounding land, and are hemmed in by dykes three or four -feet high. These are thrown up by the floes of ice in the lakes -which, decreasing in size as the summer advances, are driven back and -forth across the lakes by changing winds, and thus crowd up the mud -and sod around the edges. The dryer parts of the tundra are covered -with the white reindeer moss, really a lichen, and under and among -this a thick mat of sphagnum and other mosses. This is soaked full -of water, and it is like walking over a bed of sponges, where one -"sloshes" in five or six inches at every step, to travel over such -ground. Then on lower ground a sort of bunch grass grows in big, -stout tussocks, "nigger heads," with water and loose moss between. -This last is the worst walking. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - -Mission Inlet, Cape Blossom, July 1, 1898.--We came across Holtham -Inlet in good order Tuesday. That was the only day so far that -any steamers have come through. The weather was fine for us and a -broad channel was open and clear of ice as far as the Mission. The -same evening a west wind arose and the ice has been shifting back -and forth across the inlet ever since. The "Riley," "Agnes Boyd," -"delight," "Mattie Farington," "Nugget," and "Iowa" came through -the same day, and all are here in the little harbor safe from the -ice floes. The sea ice stretches unbrokenly from a couple of miles -below the Mission across to the north side of the Sound, and no -one has been able to get in or out of the Sound except a couple of -natives, who crossed from Point Hope on a sled. They report the ice -as firm as winter, with no prospect of its breaking up, and say that -it will be "twenty sleeps" before we can expect to get through, and -"maybe the ice won't break up at all." The beach from here to the -Mission is lined with tents and presents quite an animated scene. -Everyone expects to go to Cape Nome as early as possible. We have -no word from our good ship "Penelope" later than May 3, and she was -all right then. She wintered seventy miles below Cape Blossom. The -weather is very cold and disagreeable. Heavy winds bring penetrating -fogs from off the ice, with storms of rain and sleet, and we have -had a heavy snowstorm. We have our two 10 × 20 tents up, end to end, -on the gravel bar separating the "goose pond" from the Sound, and -have very comfortable quarters. In one tent is the cook stove and -dining-table, and the other is a sort of parlor with the big heater -in use. We loaded up heavily with wood before leaving timber on the -Kowak, but I think we shall have to make another trip for wood before -long. Everything in the line of driftwood is cleaned up in this -vicinity, but there will be the usual annual crop when the ice breaks -up. - -I just now heard a gull squalling and ran out with my gun in time -to get a shot at a Pomarine jager which was in pursuit of it. I got -the jager all right and it is a fine bird, the first I have obtained -of this species. The long-tailed and parasitic jagers are quite -common. I found a nest of each on the Kowak delta. Yesterday I found -four sets of the eggs of the northern phalarope, and shot three -golden plover, which are the first I have taken. Collecting now is -very uncomfortable. I wear the same heavy mittens. July 1, which I -wore all winter, and in fact heavier clothing all through than was -worn at thirty degrees below zero. Our warm parlor tent is quite an -attraction and we have plenty of company as usual with us. We are -talking about mail. No news from the outside world since September 15 -of last year. - -July 15.--Somewhere in Bering Sea off the Alaskan Coast.--I am -sitting on the coal-box in the galley on board the "Penelope." I am -a fixture between the fire-box of the cooking range and the window, -and have to flatten myself against the wall to keep from burning my -clothes. There are four "galley slaves" in this 6 × 8 coop, but this -is absolutely the only place possible to write in. The sea is smooth, -with a light breeze, which is ahead. Foggy as usual and very chilly. -The galley is the only place except in bed where one can warm up, and -it is in pretty lively demand whenever the cook does not claim full -possession. There are twenty-four men aboard, but all have gone to -bed save the captain and three men on watch. The captain has scarcely -slept a wink since we started a week ago. The strong currents, -unfavorable winds, and thick weather are retarding us unexpectedly. - -We were watching on the Sound on July 3 when two schooners were -sighted through the ice off Cape Blossom. On the 4th five of us went -out in a small boat and were delighted to find one of them to be the -"Penelope," all safe and in good time. Captain Delano and the four -boys. Miller, Clyde, Brown and Rivers, must have had a very rough -experience, being on duty twenty-four hours at a time. The ice in -Escholtz Bay, where the schooner wintered, began breaking up and -moving out on June 15, and from that date until she anchored off -Cape Blossom, the "Penelope" and her little crew were at the mercy -of the ice floes. They had very narrow escapes from being pinched -between floes or crowded aground. Once they were forced on a bar and -only got the ship out of her danger by breaking the ice up around -her and "kedging" out. At one place their stint of open water was -narrowing, as the ice pack drifted toward shore, and something had to -be done immediately or they were lost. A strong off-shore wind was -blowing, and the captain set all sail and headed straight for the -ice. When the "Penelope" met it with full force she raised herself -up, sliding gracefully on to the floe, and then her weight broke -it down. Then she plowed through the ice until she reached a strip -of open water beyond, where she was safe for the time being. And -with all her battlings the "Penelope" came through with scarcely -more than a skin scratch on her sides. Before the ice broke up the -captain had repaired her, painting her white with blue trimmings, and -renovating her from deck to hold. Six vessels wintered near her and -their captains all agree that it was little less than a miracle that -any were saved. Two, the "Ainsworth" and one other, were wrecked by -the ice. The "General McPherson" and "Penelope" had about the best -anchorage for the winter, in a cove behind the Chain Peninsular. - -July 5 and 6 were stormy and nothing could be done but straighten out -accounts with various parties at the Mission. Many who left earlier -in the Cape Nome rush, borrowed or bought provisions from the stores -on the "Penelope," and left orders for us to collect from their -representatives when we should get down in July. They thus saved the -labor of hauling their stuff on the first part of their trip, as the -"Penelope" was a hundred miles on the way. We have heard nothing -of our Cape Nome contingent. On July 7 we had fine, calm weather, -and loaded the "Penelope." making two trips out to where she was -anchored, nine miles from the Mission on Cape Blossom. These two -trips were our last with the "Helen." We also took on six passengers -and their freight to Cape Nome, besides two sailors who worked their -passage. It was decided that the poor "Helen" must be left, and, in -case we should not return for her this summer. Missionary Samms -could have her. She never could stand a sea, and if we took her -machinery back to San Francisco it would not be worth much more than -old iron. There goes $1800! Be this her epitaph: "She served her -purpose, if she was slow." - -We set sail southeast from Cape Blossom on the 8th and anchored off -Chamisso Island on the 9th for water. It was too rough to load the -water tanks until night, and we had until midnight on the island. -I was delighted--fairly wild! There are big rookeries of murres, -puffins and gulls on a detached islet, and a party of us made landing -and collected forty dozen eggs. I went over the cliffs on a rope -and was hauled up and down their faces. There was little danger -except from falling rocks which might be loosened above me, and we -were always very careful about that. I had a good crew, with Dr. -Coffin as foreman. The murres lay their eggs on little projections -or narrow shelves of rocks on the face of the cliff, in most places -entirely inaccessible save from above. At the last descent I had one -scare. Whether the boys above me had an equal scare I will leave -them to say. I was about fifty feet below the edge of a precipice -and probably the same distance above the rocks in the surf. I had -obtained everything within reach and had yelled to "hoist away," -but got no response. I was too far down to hear the voices of those -above, neither could they hear me. The rope didn't budge and I -continual swaying in uncertainty in mid-air, rather dubious as to -the result. Finally I gave a successful "yank" on the rope, and was -then jerked upward at a great rate of speed, scraping my elbows and -shins in my frantic efforts against being thumped against the sharp -projecting rocks. When I rose over the edge I found six men on the -rope. Three were usually sufficient, but this last trip the three -could not start the rope, and not until the sixth man, Casey, took -hold, did it give an inch. We found that the rope had caught in a -narrow chink in the rocks. Had it required one more man to start me, -where would he have been found? I probably should have been left -to swing for many hours. But I wasn't. Nothing happened wherewith -to satisfy the adventure-loving and "narrow escape" craving modern -journal, and I haven't all the eggs blown yet. Either I have become -sea-sick or on duty. Besides, popular sentiment is against me. The -boys don't like the idea of eating the egg after it is blown by my -pipe from the shell. In vain I assure them that the blow-pipe is -thoroughly disinfected according to the latest advices of science. -They Insist upon seeing the shells cracked open, lest there might -lurk some hidden secret within known only to Shafer and myself. This -new lack of faith on the part of the hitherto "nice boys" is very -disastrous to scientific investigation. I think they might trust me, -for I eat at the same table and get away with my share of doughnuts -and Cookies. I leave it to Shafer if I don't. Dr. Coffin and Rivers -have taken the egg craze, so between us three I hope a good series -will be saved out of the lot. - -On Chamisso Island we saw records carved on logs in a fair state of -preservation of the visit of "H. B. M. S. Blossom, 1820." "H. B. M. -S. Herald, 1848," and some Russian vessel 1837. Those were some of -the old Arctic explorers. - -[Illustration: Iceberg.] - -At 2 a. m. July 10, the "Penelope" set sail westward out of Kotzebue -Sound, and after dodging through scattering ice and close along the -south shore, sometimes in thirteen feet of water, she got safely -out into the open beyond Cape Espinberg. We, with one other, were -the first boats out this year. The ice opened first this season on -just the opposite side of the Sound to that of last year. We had a -good gale in the Arctic and another in Bering Sea just after getting -through the Straits. It was fearfully rough and how the "Penelope" -did pitch and roll! Worse than any time in the Pacific last year. I -was sea-sick and so was almost everyone. - -I belong to the Sailors' Union this year. Brownie is assistant cook, -as I was last year. We sailors are divided into watches of four hours -each, three men in each watch, giving one hour and twenty minutes at -the wheel to each man. I, with Clyde and Rivers, am on from 12 to -4. Eight hours a day on deck and sixteen off, doesn't read like hard -work, but it's plenty. - -[Illustration: Off Cape Nome.] - -We have had only the worst weather. Until we got through the Straits -we encountered frequent squalls of snow and sleet. To-day it has -been rainy and foggy. It is difficult to keep one's hands and feet -warm during the hour and twenty minutes at the wheel, even with our -best clothing on. I could not report for duty during the gales. We -have seen several vessels, and last night spoke the whaling tender -"Bonanza." Her captain yelled at us that there is "A big strike at -Cape Nome!" I am inclined to think that the whole world is making fun -at the expense of these "fool gold-hunters," as we are called. I wish -I were at Dutch Harbor collecting birds. Later, 11:30.--A breeze has -sprung up favorably and the captain says we are within fifty miles of -Cape Nome. - -Cape Nome, July 20.--Got in all safe and anchored close off shore. -Boys have located seven claims not yet developed. Plenty of gold in -sight. Hurrah for the Arctic gold-hunters of the "Penelope" crew! - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - -Cape Nome, July 20.--After an eleven days' voyage from Kotzebue -Sound we anchored off Anvil City on the morning of the 20th. Those -eleven days make a nightmare. A succession of head gales with -dense fogs. We were almost within sight of our destination when -a southeaster began to hum through the rigging and a thick fog -set in. The "Penelope" hove to and for two days we experienced a -most disagreeable combination of rolling and pitching, with their -inevitable conditions. When the clouds finally lifted we were back in -Bering Straits. The northward current is remarkably strong at this -season and it is almost impossible to stem it unless there is a fair -wind, which in our case did finally favor us. We found our Cape Nome -representatives all here save Cox, who was left with some claims -toward Fish River. All are well, but from their account they must -have had some sorry experiences. Dr. Gleaves, Gale and party were -lost in the overland trip and ran out of provisions, resorting to -their seventeen dogs for food in the last pinch. They finally reached -supplies with barely enough meat for two days longer. Close shave. -The body of Dr. De France of the "Iowa" party, was found frozen in -the trail in the mountains. - -On the 22d the "Penelope" sailed up the coast to our claims, which -are located on the beach seven miles west of Anvil City. Here we have -unloaded supplies and will proceed to work the claims far enough to -see what they are good for. I have not visited "town" yet, but there -must be two thousand inhabitants living mostly in tents or driftwood -shacks. Several warehouses have been built and two substantial frame -buildings are going up. They say there are ten thousand men in this -district, mostly scattered out among the hills. Five thousand claims -are recorded, but of these only about a dozen are known to be of -value. Four are so far being worked, but these I know to be extremely -rich, for anyone can look on and see the "shining" as it is separated -from the gravel in the sluice boxes. Shafer and Stevenson were at -these workings a day or two ago and saw two shovelfuls taken up -indiscriminately pan out one $6 and the other $8. Those rich claims -are in little cañons or ravines seven miles back from the coast in -the hills. This is really a gold bearing region, for one can find -colors almost anywhere. We can get from twenty-five to two hundred -colors to a pan on our claims here, but they are very line, and I -doubt their being saved in sluice boxes. The beach claims contain -plenty of gold, but it will require improved machinery to make them -pay. - -I have left my bird skins and everything except a single change of -clothing on the "Penelope," as we all have done. But I am afraid -my collection is liable to damage from rats or mould. There is no -place on shore to put the stuff and no through vessels that I know -of to ship it by. The "Penelope" left night before last to take a -prospecting party thirty miles down the coast to examine some country -there and then to visit the claims where Cox was left. Nine of us are -left here, with Harry Reynolds as foreman. We are at present digging -holes in various places to see if we can find the "pay streak." No -success yet. The gold on the beach is not "wash" gold, but no doubt -comes from the bluff which borders the beach about one hundred feet -back from the surf. From this bluff the smooth tundra extends back -some five miles to the hills. Anvil City is at the mouth of Snake -River, which extends back through the hills and heads in the high -mountain ranges which we can just see through the gap. Anvil Creek, -Snow Gulch and Glacier Creek, the rich spots, are tributaries of -Snake River. To the westward is Penny River, but this whole country, -including thirty miles along the water front, is all staked out. The -district is under military control, and twenty soldiers are stationed -at Anvil City. Without them there might be trouble. It seems that -the first men to this region, the so-called "discoverers," staked -out as many as one hundred claims each under power of attorney. -They then formed a mining district and passed a law that powers of -attorney cannot hold, thus handicapping those who have come in since, -so one man can take up but one claim. The other night a miners' -meeting was called in town to consider the matter. A resolution he -brought up which, if carried, would throw the whole district open -to be restaked. The lieutenant was there and he knew that if this -passed there would be serious trouble. He informed the meeting that -if this resolution was brought up he would clear the house. After -some deliberation the resolution was couched in a different form, -disguising its intent, but the officer kept his word and ordered the -house cleared. There was some hesitation and several toughs even -looked resistance, but the order was given to fix bayonets. The -meeting was thus broken up and nothing more has been done. - -[Illustration: Main Street, Anvil City.] - -The original staking was doubtless unfair, but if the district were -now reopened it would be worse. There is little lawlessness in Anvil -City, on account of the militia. A good many claims have been jumped -and some of them two or three times. This will give work to the -lawyers. Several of our own claims have been jumped, but we are on -them now and possession is nine points of the law. - -July 30.--This is Sunday and a day of rest for us. We have worked -pretty hard the past week. In fact this is the first mining the L. B. -A. M. & T. Co. has done. Prospect holes have been dug in different -parts of the claims. Uncle Jimmy and I were set to digging hole -back on the tundra, and if anyone doubts the work is hard let him -try it for himself. We worked three days and got to a depth of ten -feet with no favorable results. The tundra is thawed barely through -its covering of moss, seldom more than six inches. The rest of the -way the frozen ground was as hard as rock and had to be chipped off -bit by bit. The hole was about four by five feet, just room enough -to wield a heavy pick. We broke the points off the pick every day. A -strata of pure ice a foot thick was encountered, but most of the way -we worked through a sort of frozen muck or packed mass of unrotted -vegetation which, when it thaws, looks and smells like barnyard filth. - -After the first day the walls began to melt and cave in little by -little, so that each morning and noon we would have to bale out a -foot or more of mud and water. It was about as dirty work as one -can imagine. The fresh clods, as we picked them out of the bottom, -were so cold that for a time frost formed on the outside just like -a cold piece of iron brought into a warm room in winter. Although -as cold as a refrigerator down in the pit, the perspiration poured -off from us from the stifling air. Only one of us at a time could -work in the hole, so we had half hour shifts. Uncle Jimmy and I. -The man on the outside had to haul up the bucketfuls of dirt and -water, but he otherwise rested. After our long yachting trip this -work was especially hard. But such labor gives one a tremendous -appetite. Jesse Farrar is cook now. Shafer has deserted the company. -He has obtained a position in a restaurant uptown at $1.50 per month -and expenses, with prospects of $200 next mouth. C. C. Reynolds, -Dr. Coffin, Clyde, Baldwin and Colclough have left on the steamer -"Albion" for home. Yes, for home! All have made satisfactory -arrangements with the company. As to the rest of us who "stay by the -ship," there are none but could better his condition by leaving the -company. But we who have a good deal of money invested, hate to leave -everything when affairs are looking better than ever before. - -We are in a gold country here and none can tell what may turn up. I -never saw a single color in the Kowak region, but here the sand is -sprinkled with them, though not in paying quantities everywhere. I -must admit that even I, who do not know what homesickness is, would -like very well to be at home for a while. I am losing time now. No -matter if I were shoveling gravel and digging holes, that isn't -improving myself any, is it? - -I am still intent upon Dutch Harbor as soon as the company leaves -Alaska. I do not suppose I will ever return to Alaska again, and I -think a few months among the Aleutians would be time well put in, in -the natural history line. - -By the way, "Uncle S.," the Quaker gold-hunter whom we had given -up for lost last winter, came aboard the "Penelope" when we first -anchored at Anvil City. He has bought a small steam launch and makes -money ferrying people and their goods up and down the coast. The -Snake River is not navigable except after heavy rains. I have also -seen the "Flying Dutchman" here. He is gray. He had black hair and -beard last fall. His forced journeyings over the frozen Arctic have -left a witness to his hardships. The "Bear" came in last night from -Kotzebue Sound, bringing eighty victims of scurvy. The sickness up -there has been awful this spring and the death rate as high as ten -per cent. - -We hear of a great many disasters. There are but few who would spend -another winter on the Kowak for a mint of gold, unless it be myself. -To crown it all, we have news of a strike on the Kowak! "Nuggets as -big as hickory nuts!" This story, when we are scarcely four hundred -miles away from there! Somebody is starting another boom. This may -start some more "fools" up there. But it will take something new to -get any of us back. We have bit at "the hickory nut" once, and I do -not think we shall again. We hear that the transportation companies -are booming this country. It is overrun now and there is sure to be -crowding. Wages are five to eight dollars a day back at the mines, -but only a limited number of men can get employment at that. Expenses -are high, and a man had better stick to $1.50 per day back in -civilization than to come here and sleep on the damp ground in a tent -without a fire and live on salt-horse and beans. - -The hot weather is upon us at last and the last four days have been -"sweaters." It is like an oven in the tent where I am writing. Dr. -Coffin got us each a box of lemons and oranges on the "Alaska," just -in, before he left. Jesse just brought in a big stew kettle full of -ice-cold lemonade. Two bowls full just serve to make one want more. -It tastes so good. We have had one mess of fresh potatoes and onions. -We ate the latter raw with vinegar. It does a fellow good to be -without such things a while, if not too long. He knows better how to -appreciate them. - -And now I record a fact that ought to make every face blush that -turns an upward glance at Old Glory. The United States has passed "a -law," permitting; saloons in Cape Nome. The natives get all they want -and are killing each other when drunk. The native girl who mends some -of our shoes, came in drunk, and when sober she was asked where she -obtained the liquor. She gave the name of the man. Our foreman told -him that he would report him to the captain of our squad, and was -offered $50 by the criminal to "keep mum." - -Aug. 5.--It is nothing now but "work" from 7 a. m. to 6 p. m. After -ten hours of it one is more ready to rest than to write. I do not -get a minute to so much as look at a bird except Sunday, which we -have voted to observe. And then there is plenty to till in every -minute when one comes along, including mending and washing. But I -can scarcely help seeing the birds that fly past along the beach -just as if to taunt me. Bands of Pacific kittiwakes pass up and down -the surf on the lookout for herrings, and an occasional glaucus, or -rather the Port Barrow gull, comes sailing along. A pair of Arctic -terns feeding their full-grown young, afford almost the only bird -notes of any kind. The young have a pleading, and yet harshly strong, -succession of calls, and hover along the beach ever ready for the -fish caught in the surf by the parent birds. The precision with which -the terns can drop on a tiny fish or crustacean in the boiling surf -is remarkable. And yet they seem so light on the wing and rise from -the water with so little apparent exertion. Long-tailed jagers are -common, coursing back and forth over the tundra or poising against -the wind with fluttering wings much like a sparrow-hawk. Their long, -pointed, streamer-like, central tail feathers distinguish them at -almost any distance from the other jagers. They feed on meadow mice -and caterpillars mostly, but their habit of forcing gulls to disgorge -is of frequent notice. As there are no mud flats or marshes here the -waders are scarce. I saw a godwit, probably the Pacific, flying back -toward the interior. Several golden plover, which I have no doubt are -rearing their young, are always on the back part of our claims. Their -melodious, warbling call reminds me strongly of the robin. These -plover show decided preference for the dryest tundra and uplands, and -at Cape Blossom I found them on the hillsides in the interior of the -peninsula. One day last week while I was at work in a prospect hole -back of the bluff, three turnstones lit in the mossy hummocks within -a few yards of me. They were very tame and remained an hour or more -near me, feeding on insects or their larvæ. I have never taken this -species (the common turnstone), although I saw it at Cape Prince of -Wales and Cape Blossom, and tried hard to get some specimens. I took -several of the black turnstones in Sitka in 1896, and also in San -Clemente Island last year. Black-throated loons are numerous and are -constantly seen and heard overhead as they fly back and forth from -the lakes on the tundra to their feeding grounds out at sea. This -is the only loon I have seen here, although I saw the red-throated -at Kotzebue. I have kept special watch for the yellow-billed loon -which is ascribed to this region, but have never identified it. The -Eskimos make clothing of loon skins, and I have particularly examined -such evidences, but have never found a scrap of yellow-billed loon -skin. This species cannot therefore be very numerous. Land birds -are very scarce here, probably on account of the awful barrenness -of the region. I flushed one snowy owl back of camp one day, and -the boys say they saw a hawk of some kind yesterday, I think from -their description a gyrfalcon. I saw two juvenile Lapland longspurs -yesterday feeding about the bluff, and also heard a yellow wagtail. I -have noted a pair of juvenile redpolls several times along the bluff. - -This, I think, comprises our avifauna up to date, and it will be -seen that a collector would have rather "slim picking." They tell -me that back in the hills where the ravines are lined with willow -scrubs, birds are more numerous and that large flocks of juvenile -ptarmigan are appearing. I would like to go back and see if this is -true, but it is all "business" now. The financial prospects of our -party are brightening every day. Our beach claims may become a paying -proposition when properly developed. Eight or ten of us are working -on one of them in a very crude fashion, using "rockers." and are -taking out $50 to $60 per day. With improved machinery this would be -a rich thing, but of course considerable capital would be required -to start. I am "cleaner-up;" taking out the previous day's clean-up, -which consists of several pans of mixed black sand and gold dust (the -latter in smallest proportion), and panning it down so far as I can -without losing any colors or fine flakes of the yellow. Then I mix in -mercury thoroughly, which takes up all the dust, forming an amalgam, -which is finally separated and retorted, leaving the buttons of pure -gold. We are figuring on another proposition and may not continue -at this much longer. We have prospected these claims enough to know -their value, and this is enough for this year. There is a good deal -of trouble about the strip of beach between high and low tide, some -claiming it to be public reserve and open to be worked by anyone. -Several "squatters" are working on our claims who refuse to get off, -but the judge will settle this next week. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - -Cape Nome, Alaska, Aug. 6, 1899.--It is Sunday evening again and I -am reclining against my roll of blankets in the warm tent. Foote is -playing the banjo, beautiful music, too! I never appreciated music -until this trip. Foote's marches and familiar songs, associated as -they are with the freedom of camp life and that feeling of rest after -a day's work, have impressed their memory as the sweetest music I -ever heard. We are still on our beach claims; that is, part of us. -The "Penelope" is back at anchor, having left Jett and Wilson on the -scent of something under guidance of an Indian. Cox has not reported. -Our property is advancing in value and so is the stock of the L. B. -A. M. & T. Co. The same stock which I was ready to trade a few weeks -ago for some cotton batting, arsenic and plaster-of-paris! We own -a lot in Anvil City 200 × 300 feet. The beach claims are proving -better. If we can hold clear to the water line we are safe. The -past week we have taken out $250 in gold dust. Trouble with jumpers -continues. Over six hundred men are working with rockers on the beach -in sight. Some are making from $50 to $150 per day. One fellow struck -a pocket and took out $400 at one clean-up. Our claims are not as -good as those nearer Snake River. Several jumpers are at work on them -now and we cannot put them off except by force, and that means fight. -None of us want to be disfigured after our successful encounter with -the frost last winter. We appealed to the lieutenant in charge, but -he says he can do nothing until the arrival of the district judge -next week. Several of our boys have gone up to one of the rich -gulches to consider a new proposition. Maybe we will get a good lay. -A "lay" is a lease given by a claim owner to a party to work a claim -for a certain per-centage of the outcome. - -Aug. 13.--Another week has passed away and very quickly, too, in -spite of the hard work. From six to twelve of us are still working on -one of the beach claims. Up to Friday night we had taken out $750 in -dust. If the whole company were working at the same rate this would -be good wages, but there are twenty to share with. The "Penelope" -has gone down the coast again to look after the prospectors and may -bring good news. Jesse Farrar, the cook, went to town last night, and -I have been cooking to-day. We were troubled quite a little at first -by our numerous Kotzebue friends dropping in for meals on their way -up and down the beach. So we put up a sign, "Meals, $1," more to rid -ourselves of the extra care than to go into the restaurant business. -Really it became unbearable. - -The town is booming. The beach claim trouble is not settled yet, and -everyone is working where he pleases. Claim owners up in the gulches -are looking for men at $10 per day and board, and cannot get them. A -$310 nugget was taken from a sluice box the other day, and one man -cleared $20,000 for four days' work. Our boys have been up to see, -and I ought to go. A fellow hasn't a chance every day in his life to -see such a lot of gold in the rough, at its birth as it were, before -it is washed or dressed or alloyed. Most of the lucky ones are Swedes -or Laplanders, they being on the ground at the beginning of the rush -last spring. - -Gold can only bring $15 per ounce at the highest, and only $14 at -some stores. In other words, coin is at a big premium. The beach -gold runs very high, being much purer than that from the hills. Some -was sent to St. Michaels and assayed $18.40 per ounce. If one had -the cash he could buy up the raw gold and sell it. That is where the -companies make the bulk of their money. It is a great temptation for -some of our party to desert and start into private enterprises. But -I, and most of the boys, will stay together and I believe will come -out better in the long run. - -They say Dawson is played out and that this is the next place for a -boom. But I wouldn't advise anyone to come here if they have any way -of making a living at home. Ten dollars a day sounds big, but when -one pays $90 each way for transportation and then prices for things -here, there isn't much left from the short period of three months' -work, and one is not sure of that. - -We have a short fish net set out beyond the surf. This morning -I found four salmon in it, the first we have had since leaving -Kotzebue. Only four of us are here to-day, but I had three -"boarders." Three dollars in "dust" was paid. - -I have forgotten to describe what "rocking" is. A rocker runs just -like a baby's cradle, from side to side. At the top is a hopper with -holes in the bottom to keep out the coarse stuff. The sand falls -through the hopper-holes and washes over two "aprons" slanting back -and forth to the bottom, where it runs out through a sluice-box. The -aprons, and sometimes the sluice-box, have "riffles," or strips of -cloth fastened in crosswise, to catch the gold. The aprons and the -whole bottom of the box and riffles are of blanket, so that the finer -dust catches in the nap or wool. A man stands dipping water into the -hopper with one hand and rocking with the other, while the other man -puts in a shovelful of the pay dirt every now and then, and keeps the -water tub full and the tailings cleaned away. Two men run a rocker, -though when the "Penelope" crew is ashore there are three men to each -of our four rockers. We have to carry all our water from the surf. -Some of the rockers have copper plates amalgamated with mercury on -the upper sides. These are better, as the finer particles are caught -and amalgamated. To "clean up" a rocker, the aprons and blankets are -taken out and washed in a tub and the resulting debris panned out. I -am amalgamator, and have nothing to do with the rockers. I pan out -the previous day's clean-up and amalgamate the dust, squeeze "dry" -the amalgam and weigh it. We have no retort as yet and I have on hand -nearly ten pounds of dry amalgam. I have experimented with it and -find that the amalgam is one-half gold by weight. Oh, the boys have -a little joke on me. It was the result of my first experiment and I -shall never hear the last of it. There must have been something else -in the spoon I was using, nickel or silver, for the gold melted right -into the spoon. I poured the stuff out on to a shovel-blade to save -what was left. What did it do but melt right into and all over the -shovel! The result of this is that the L. B. A. M. & T. Co. has a -gold-plated shovel. We are a wealthy company and can afford it. - -[Illustration: Cape Nome.] - -Later. Anvil City, Cape Nome.--I came to town after supper and -am writing in our "city cabin," which is just back of the A. C. -Company's store. We own a very fine residence in the city 12 x 10 -feet, on a 150 x 300 foot lot. It is a good eight miles from our -beach claims here, and as I walked it I thought it twenty. I wore -heavy shoes, and the best walking I could select was on the wet sand -along the surf. For the entire eight miles there is scarcely one -hundred feet without one or more tents on it. The beach is riddled -with ditches and holes, and hundreds of rockers of all descriptions -gyrate in various rhythm. I spoke to many Kotzebue people whom we -knew last winter, and all are doing well. The beach is still being -worked by everyone, irrespective of original locators, a dozen or -more on our own claims. The officer arrested several, but discharged -them again. The townspeople, saloonkeepers and transportation -companies are against claim owners, as it is to their own interest -to keep the mob taking out money. And they're doing it, too. Anvil -City is booming. Dozens of frame buildings are being erected. Three -big two-story sheet-iron buildings are going up, which comprise the -government barracks. Several steamers have gotten over the bar and -are in the mouth of Snake River. About two dozen saloons are raking -in the money. This is a speedy place. I wish I had my time for the -next two months here. Ptarmigan are $1 each for eating. Wages are $1 -per hour. - -[Illustration: Rocking Out Gold at Cape Nome.] - -Cape Nome, Aug. 22.--I am quite sure that I do not aspire to the -realm of cookery, but yet, for all that, I am in the kitchen again, -"monarch of all I survey." I do not blame the cook for stubbornly -declaring his intention to resign and refusing to leave his bed. No -one heeded his warning given the day before. Pandemonium ensued. A -dish-pan of mush finally appeared at the hands of Uncle Jimmy. No one -consented to fill the vacancy at any wages. Three "boarders" came in -and were turned away. The dissolution of the company was imminent, -all because there was no one in the crowd to perform a duty which is -considered by all to be the most disagreeable of any on the list. I -told them so, and several other emphatic truths. "Practice what you -preach!" was hurled at me. Then I rose up like a martyr and declared -that I would "risk death" in the interests of the L. B. A. M. & T. -Co., and here I am in imminent peril of being wiped off the face -of the earth by some "beach comber" whom I charge fifty cents for -a loaf of bread. I sold three loaves at that rate yesterday. Also -served fifteen meals to outsiders at the rate of $1 per meal. One -man came in for supper last night who planked down a bag of dust -worth fully $800 for me to weigh the dollar from. I poured out a -little too much and he grabbed the bag and went out, saying, "Keep -the change!" Most of the money taken in is dust. Cash is scarcer -than ever. Copper plates are not obtainable, and silver dollars and -halves are at a premium for covering the bottoms of rockers. The -coins are amalgamated with mercury to catch the fine gold dust. I -saw fifty arranged in rows in one rocker. Our claims are now covered -with beach jumpers and we cannot get them off. Mob law rules. There -are one hundred beach combers to one claim owner, and the authorities -will not or cannot do anything. The lieutenant in charge gave us -some notices to "vacate," but the people pay no attention. It fell -to me to go up to one of our claims, and I showed the notice to each -of the workers along the beach. Some laughed at me. Some sneered. -One "tough" consigned me and the notice to a warmer place than Cape -Nome in August. He continued to swear at me, and when I respectfully -asked him to "be reasonable and give me a hearing," he told me to -get to that same place I have mentioned "and quick, too." This at -my own claim! I never knew I had a temper before, but for a minute -then I do not think I would have been responsible. I can easily see -how murders are committed in the rage of anger, and if all judges -and juries could put themselves in the place of the tempted, perhaps -capital punishment, at least for such crimes, would be annulled. The -man who threatened me was bigger than I, and I went on. And he is -still working there, taking out $100 per day, so I am told. He is in -a "pocket." Our pocket. We have discussed the advisability of using -force, but have abandoned it. Fancher says we "might get disfigured," -for there are people here just awkward enough to hit a fellow in the -face. - -We are hemmed in on all sides and soon our beach claims will be -worthless. Sunday I retorted all the amalgam we had on hand, and -eighty-five ounces of pure gold was the result. Seven pounds of the -pretty yellow stuff! I broke the big chunks as they came from the -retort into small pieces with a cold chisel. It was fascinating work -to weigh out the rare metal and lift the same when it was put into -the chamois-skin sack. I have turned it over to Treasurer Rivers, so -it is off my hands. But what is fifteen hundred dollars divided among -twenty men? It would certainly be better to divide up the company -right now, for the individuals here, but we cannot lawfully do it. -Complete desertion is the only alternative to staying with it. - -Anvil City, Aug. 24.--We have left the beach claims and are on our -way to Nome River. We have leased a fifty per cent, lay on Buster -Creek, and are going to see what is in it. It is our last chance -for this year. It may turn out poor, but we have very good reports -from that section. We hope to feel assured of something good to come -back to next spring. Ice last night, and probably an early winter. -The schooner is going up to Safety Harbor in Port Clarence to remain -until October 1st, which is about as late as we dare stay here. I -must go ashore now for a boat-load of lumber for sluice-boxes. - -Later.--The rats got into a box of my geese and entirely ruined -them. I do not know how much else is destroyed. I have not been so -absolutely down-hearted for many moons. All on account of those -miserable rats. I came near taking all my collection ashore and -quitting the company. But then I suppose "gold is to be desired above -all things." at least this is what I am told by wiser heads than -mine, judging by their whiteness and baldness. There is a prospect -of getting some new potatoes ashore to-night, and these will be an -all-sufficient antidote to low spirits. Somehow potatoes, and even -onions, go straight to the seat of low spirits when a fellow has been -without them a year or two. Strange to me that a man ever commits -suicide in the midst of local markets where fresh vegetables can be -obtained. Ah, we shall have a great supper to-night! One menu three -times a day--beans, dessicated vegetables, rice, dried fruit and -bacon--grows wearisome unless the appetite is awfully sharp. - -[Illustration: Placer Mining, Cape Nome.] - -Buster Creek, Sept. 3.--Here we are twelve miles up among the -mountains back of Cape Nome. It took two days towing up Nome River, -which is really nothing more than a creek. There were bars to drag -the boat over every hundred yards. That brought us to the mouth of -Buster Creek, three miles from here, and from there we had the sweet -job of packing up all our supplies and lumber on our backs. Rain -most of the time and nothing but green willow brush to burn. It was -very disagreeable, hard work, but here we are now, well settled, -with an oil stove to depend on when the willow wood fails. We have -a fairly good looking claim here, No. 4. Have it opened up and the -first gravel through yesterday. The riffles show coarse gold, though -in no fabulous amount. We cannot get much out before freeze-up this -year, but ought to do fairly well next summer from present prospects. -Some ice and considerable frost already. We will probably return to -the coast the last of September. The "Penelope" rode out the late -storm safely when so many other vessels were lost. My latest news is -that the rats have taken my goose box for a nesting den. One of the -boys will watch from this on. I am cooking and it keeps me jumping -sideways to feed the fourteen hungry gravel-heavers. I have to be up -at five in the morning and am seldom through until nine at night. -Have to bake every day, and have nothing larger than a single camp -stove oven to do it in. Everyone is working for all there is in him. -We hope to strike a pay streak, as they have on the claim above us, -rich enough to take out $800 per day. I have scarcely time to breathe -outside of the cook tent these days. But I frequently hear the notes -of familiar birds--golden-crowned sparrows, gray-cheeked thrushes and -ptarmigan. I shot nine ptarmigan the other evening close by. We are -feasting on fresh venison. Yesterday morning a reindeer appeared on -the hillside above the tents. Without malice aforethought one of the -boys aimed and it fell--to our lot. It is now hinted that the wild -creature was a tame reindeer, and that the Laps from over on Anvil -Creek who have the animals in charge, will most likely come to hunt -it up. If they get a peep into our provision tent we may have to pay -$100, otherwise it will be finished by us with a relish such as few -can appreciate. These Laplanders own very rich claims and, though -they are really a lower class of people than the Indians, the latter -cannot become citizens. - -Last week, while we were coming up along Nome River, birds were quite -numerous, especially the smaller species in the willow thickets. I -saw or heard the yellow, black-poll and Wilson's warblers; tree, -fox, golden-crowned and intermediate sparrows, gray-cheeked thrush, -redpoll, snowy owl, flocks of golden plover and pectoral sandpipers, -one young Sabine's gull on a sand-bar: lots of large gulls, either -glaucus or glaucus-winged, and perhaps both; loons, black and -red-throated; little brown crane, pin-tails, and other ducks not -identified. The last two or three days small birds have been very -scarce. On August 27 and 28 the fall migrations were in progress. -Most of the birds were heard singing, especially the warblers, as in -spring. The ptarmigan are very nicely plumaged now in parti-colored -costume. I wish I could save some, but the L. B. A. M. & T Co. is -mining now. I can hardly decide in my own mind to stay another winter -here. I will let circumstances decide. There are hundreds of Dawson -people here who say this will be a greater gold country than the -Klondike. Some of the creeks are turning out immensely rich. One -Swede came down from his claim the other day with $88,000. He got rid -of $30,000 of it in a saloon almost immediately. It will be seen that -the saloon people are taking in most of the gold. However, I think we -are on the right track, though it may take two more years to bring us -material returns. In a few days now it will be: - - "Penelope! Penelope! zip! boom! bah! - Going home from Kotzebue! rah! rah! rah!" - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - -Buster Creek, Cape Nome, Sept. 16, 1899.--A week ago Casey went to -Anvil City, across country twelve miles, and brought a batch of mail, -containing our first letters from home since our arrival here in -answer to our own. I received six, which I have committed to memory, -sitting alone in the cook tent. If people at home, the wide world -over, would write faithfully to absent ones, there would be joy in -many a wanderer's heart. - -Here we are, working like beavers, thirteen of us, including me, the -cook. It's the last struggle of a dying company. But it isn't dead -yet. In fact there are many good signs of reviving, possibly to a -more prosperous condition. We have done little so far on Buster Creek -but hunt for pay dirt. Just now we are making wages. Took out $400 -last week, including some very pretty nuggets. The claims are too -spotted; that is, the gold runs in narrow streaks, and necessitates -moving quantities of barren dirt to get at it. Our largest nugget -so far is $4.13, with a good many $1 ones. Over on Anvil Creek they -took out a twenty-seven ounce one last week. That is a better size. -While we have done little but "prospect" on the claims here, we have -gained a good idea of their value, and expect to work them next -year. A cold snap struck us three days ago and threatens to put a -stop to our mining for this season. The creek is bordered with ice, -and icicles adorn the edges of the sluice-boxes. We shall remain as -long as we can possibly work. It is snowing quite heavily to-day. I -saw the last Siberian yellow wagtail on the 8th, also a gray-cheeked -thrush. I saw a gyrfalcon and snowy owl flying along the canon -yesterday. Scattering flocks of golden plover have been quite common -the past few days on the hillsides feeding on blueberries. I shot one -near the tent this morning, although the ground was white with snow. -I can hear their clear notes every few minutes while I write. They -are flying past along the creek or up the hills. I wish I could save -some skins. But wishes do not count with a gold-hunter when gold -is in sight. Yesterday immense flocks of little brown cranes passed -south overhead. - -I am pretty sure this is the same species we see and hear so much of -during the migrations in southern California, and not so often the -sand-hill crane. - -This "cooking job," which has been thrust upon me by circumstances -entirely outside my control, is something terrible. I will never, -never get into another scrape like it. And yet "I am in the hands of -my friends." No President of these United States ever accepted his -office "by the will of the people" more surely than I now occupy my -office as cook for the L. B. A. M. & T. Co. But for all that, I am -elected by a sweeping vote. I repeat my previous oft-made declaration -that I will never be caught running for this office again. In fact I -never did run for it. It ran for me. An unquestionable illustration -of the office seeking the man and not the man the office. I get up -at five in the morning; nearly dark now at that early hour. How cold -it is! And I never was eager to get up, under any circumstances. -For a week nearly every night ice forms in the tent. I have an oil -stove, without which I should never be able to prepare breakfast. -Green willow brush is hard to burn in the little camp stove. I have -breakfast ready at 6:30, dinner at 12, and supper at 6. It keeps me -"hustling" to be prompt. The office is no "snap." I am given a man -to chop wood when necessary, otherwise I must do everything alone. -And the dish-washing three times a day! Let who will envy me. Up to -the beginning of the cold snap I made light bread, six loaves per -day. But since it has been freezing in the tent at night the sponge -will not rise. And there's no way to keep it warm. Fuel too dear and -scarce. The camp stove oven is about ten inches square, with bake -pans to fit, two loaves to a pan, one pan at a time. Light bread went -a good deal further than baking-powder biscuit. It takes nine slabs -of the latter a day to satisfy us now. We are reduced to the bare -necessities, no butter nor canned milk. For breakfast I give them -corn-meal mush, bacon, bread, beans and coffee. For dinner bacon, -beans, bread, pea soup, apple sauce and coffee. For supper either -bacon gravy, made of flour and water, or stew, if we have ptarmigan -or meat, beans, rice, apple sauce, bread, hard-tack and tea. Our -reindeer was fine, but lasted only a few days. One unaccustomed -to this fare of ours may think we are in luck for miners, and so -we are, but one gets tired of the same menu for so long. And then -the staleness of it, after being shipped and towed and packed and -unpacked, and swapped, and crushed, and dampened, for nearly two -years! Little freshness in it. - -The boys are having no easy job at shoveling. Their feet are swollen -and sore from standing in rubber boots in ice water, and their hands -are cracked and chapped. These every-day monotonies are the real -hardships of a miner's life. He can tramp across the country for -a few weeks and know that the end of his journey is at hand, and -besides be getting some satisfaction from the thought of "glory" -when he shall relate his perils to gaping friends at home. But this -"peg-away" daily toil, in heat and cold and sleet and rain, after -what may come to light in the next shovelful, and possibly never show -up at all--this is hardship. But through it all the boys who have -stuck to their work are in good spirits, and this in face of the fact -that the "clean-ups" do not always show up wages even. - -I have plenty of time to think nowadays all by myself, for I do not -necessarily keep all my thoughts upon the grub. I do a good deal of -my work from sheer habit now, or mechanically. The boys are working -on Claim No. 1, and these tents are on No. 4, so I am quite alone -except at meal time. A regulation claim is one-fourth of a mile long -lengthwise of a creek, and one-eighth wide. - -The "Penelope" is at Port Clarence, where Fancher and Jett went -prospecting. The boat will be at Anvil City about October 1st, -according to programme, and we will sail for home as soon after that -date as we can get away. Yes, home! I am heartily tired of this kind -of living. I shall be willing to take a six months' rest before -taking another trip, I am sure. I long to get back to my father's -house and up in those cool, high chambers of mine, where I may once -more feel "like a Christian and a gentleman." - -The season is earlier than usual, and the weather much more -disagreeable than at the same date last year on the Kowak. Every -moment or two while I write I have to stop and stir the beans or -apple sauce, or look at a batch of bread. The beans are boiling with -rather a melodious gurgle, while the sizzling rice and the patter of -sleet on the canvas overhead furnish a rather pleasing accompaniment. -But it makes a person feel kind of lonesome-like. There! the old -stove is smoking again! Whenever the wind shifts around the hill the -draft is damaged, and the stinging, irritating green willow smoke -fills the tent. My eyes smart and are very painful from this cause. -I long for the voyage home across the water for the sake of my eyes. -And now the snow is coming and it will but increase the mischief. I -should hate to lose my good eyesight. - -A few cases of typhoid fever are reported, but none on this creek. We -are all in good health. No one would doubt this last at meal time. -The boys eat an immense amount of our monotonous grub and say their -"grace" as thankfully as if it were a banquet. Little Brownie, the -boy who was going to work eighteen hours a day if only he could "find -the nuggets." comes dragging himself home at night completely tired -out, sore feet and blistered hands. The work is pretty hard on the -older men. Shaul, Wilson and Uncle Jimmy. But we have no hardships -from other causes than voluntary hard work. Our foreman. Harry -Reynolds, knows his business well, and we all like him. - -Anvil City. Sept. 20.--We were frozen out on Buster Creek, and here -we are in town again. Winter is upon us, the landscape is white and -the glare is very painful. The ground is frozen hard, which makes -walking much easier than through a foot of mud and ooze. We are -living in our cabin on our city lot just back of the A. C. Company's -big warehouse. We made the entire trip from No. 4 on Buster Creek in -one day, and were just in time, for next morning a snowstorm began, -lasting until yesterday. We made the trip down Nome River in five -hours in our boats, and then around to Anvil City outside the surf, -which luckily was not heavy. And how, cold it was! I was one of -three to bring a boat around, and by the time we got here I was so -stiff I could scarcely bend my limbs. Rubber boots and damp clothing -inside. It would have been much worse had we waited a day longer. -However, we are all well in spite of hardship, and are patiently (?) -waiting for the "Penelope." We heard a rumor that a white schooner -was wrecked a short time ago on the rocks near Port Clarence. It was -thought to be the "Penelope." Alas, my dear collection! But if it -were the "Penelope" we would have been informed by this time. Then we -have heard that the "Penelope" has been chartered to go back up to -Kotzebue again for freight, and to go over to Siberia to trade for -dog-feed. But a person must make a rule to believe nothing he hears -in this country or he would be worrying all the time. - -This, for a boom town, beats anything we ever saw in the States. -Thousands of people are now pouring in from Dawson to stay through -the winter, and they say that this is a bigger place than ever Dawson -was. Steamer loads of people and freight are coming in every day. -The town is full of money. The town is incorporated, with mayor, -councilmen and police force. Franchises have been let for electric -lighting, sewerage, water works, and all modern improvements. -Hundreds of houses are building, many large ones. Lumber is $150 per -thousand. - -I have a job for to-morrow in the mayor's office aligning a -calligraph. Wages are $1 per hour. I could have all I could do for -the winter, type-writing and doing mechanical drawing in the Nome -City Attorney's office. But I wouldn't stay here for $300 per month. -No, nor for anything. I hate the place. There's the toughest crowd of -people, sporting Dawsonites, everyone ready to "do" everybody else. -It is the liveliest, speediest, swiftest mining camp ever seen in -Alaska. And what will it be next year? All sorts of sharks are making -fortunes. - -Sept. 27, 1899.--Heigh-o! The "Penelope" has just dropped anchor -off Anvil City and we are in high glee. Higher glee than we ever -experienced on the Kowak, for we are going home! Our hunt for gold is -over. We shall take some passengers aboard for San Pedro. I shall go -on ship at once and see how it fares with my precious birds. They are -my gold. We shall start at high noon October 2d, and expect to make -the trip in a month or six weeks. Depends upon the wind. Now for our -good ship's yell: - - "Penelope! Penelope! zip I boom! bah! - Going home from Kotzebue! rah! rah! rah!" - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber Note - -Minor typos were corrected. In order to prevent splitting paragraphs, -illustrations were repositioned. - - - - - - - - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GOLD HUNTING IN ALASKA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where - you are located before using this eBook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that: - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation's website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without -widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |