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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #65120 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/65120)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Harper's Household Handbook, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Harper's Household Handbook
-       A guide to easy ways of doing woman's work
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: April 20, 2021 [eBook #65120]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online Distributed
-             Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-             produced from images generously made available by The Internet
-             Archive/American Libraries.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARPER'S HOUSEHOLD HANDBOOK ***
-
-
-
-
-
-                         Useful Household Books
-
-THE COOK BOOK OF LEFT-OVERS By Helen Carroll Clarke, former instructor
-    in cookery in Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, and Phoebe Deyo Rulon,
-    former instructor in invalid cookery and dietetics in Bellevue
-    Hospital, New York City. Illustrated with Photographs. 16mo, Special
-    Waterproof Cloth, Uniform with “The Expert Waitress,” $1.00 net.
-
-SIMPLE ITALIAN COOKERY By Antonia Isola. A collection of recipes showing
-    how to cook macaroni, rice, soups, meats, vegetables, sweets, etc.
-    16mo, Cloth, 50 cents net.
-
-HYGIENE FOR MOTHER AND CHILD By Francis H. MacCarthy, M.D., Attending
-    Physician to the Out-Patient Department for Children, Massachusetts
-    Homoeopathic Hospital. A manual for mothers and nurses. Post 8vo,
-    Cloth, $1.25 net.
-
-THE BABY: HIS CARE AND TRAINING By Marianna Wheeler. (New and Revised
-    Edition.) Everything mother should know regarding the food,
-    clothing, and bringing-up of the baby. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth,
-    $1.00 net.
-
-MANNERS AND SOCIAL USAGES It covers the entire field of what to do and
-    what not to do in social affairs. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth,
-    $1.25.
-
-                               ----------
-
-                HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, NEW YORK
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
-                               _HARPER’S
-                               HOUSEHOLD
-                               HANDBOOK_
-
-
-                          A GUIDE TO EASY WAYS
-                         OF DOING WOMAN’S WORK
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-                      HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS
-                          NEW YORK AND LONDON
-                                MCMXIII
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
-                 COPYRIGHT, 1913. BY HARPER & BROTHERS
-                                 ──────
-                PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
-                         PUBLISHED MARCH, 1913
-
-
-
-
-                                  B-N
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
-                                CONTENTS
-
-
-              CHAP.                                  PAGE
-
-                 I. WASH-DAY WISDOM, NURSING, AND       1
-                    SICKROOM
-
-                II. INSIDE A ROOM                      24
-
-               III. EQUIPMENT AND RENOVATORS           41
-
-                IV. CHINA, GLASS, AND FURNITURE        56
-
-                 V. MAKING WHOLE                       74
-
-                VI. MAKING AND MAKING OVER             95
-
-               VII. REMEDYING SPOTS, STAINS, AND      113
-                    TARNISH
-
-              VIII. FOOD: CHOOSING AND KEEPING        129
-
-                IX. HOUSE PLANTS, WINDOW BOXES,       145
-                    CUT FLOWERS
-
-                 X. DISINFECTANTS, INSECTS,           163
-                    INSECTICIDES
-
-                XI. CARE OF PETS                      179
-
-               XII. IN EMERGENCIES                    192
-
-                    INDEX                             201
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
-                                HARPER’S
-                           HOUSEHOLD HANDBOOK
-
-
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-                                HARPER’S
-                           HOUSEHOLD HANDBOOK
-
-
-
-
-                                   I
-
-                 WASH-DAY WISDOM, NURSING, AND SICKROOM
-
-
-=Water=: Soften hard water with either washing-soda or lye, taking care
-not to use too much. Turbid or milky water can be cleared to a degree
-with alum. Dissolve a tablespoonful in a pint of boiling water, and add
-a cupful to a tub. Ill-smelling water should be dashed with clear lime
-water—using likewise a cupful to the tub. A teaspoonful of carbolic acid
-to the tubful is also advisable with wash water under suspicion.
-
-=Soap=: Save money and strength by getting soap in boxfuls, piling it
-cobhouse fashion on a dry shelf in the air. Borax soaps chap the hands
-least. Naphtha soaps do the best work with cold water. Cheap yellow
-soaps, having much resin in them, answer very well if the clothes are
-well rinsed. Any sort of soap is best made into a jelly. Shave a bar,
-cover with boiling water, and simmer until soft. If there are very dirty
-things to wash, add a teaspoonful of borax in powder, and as much
-washing-soda to the cake of soap. This is for rubbing on dirty spots.
-Other things had better be washed in suds, made by putting a handful of
-jelly in a tub of water.
-
-=Washing Fluids=: Use for boys’ clothes, working-men’s shirts, and
-overalls turpentine, kerosene, and lime water, equal quantities, shaken
-well together. Wet thoroughly, let stand an hour, then wash in warm
-suds. Turpentine and spirits of ammonia, half and half, shaken hard
-together, will make easier the cleansing of colored woolens.
-
-=Bleaching=: Clothes that are yellow from lying should be wet in boiling
-water dashed with oxalic acid (see section Renovators), putting two
-tablespoonfuls to the gallon. Wring out, dry in sunshine, and wash as
-usual. To bleach faded things white, as prints, lawns or linens, wash
-very clean, using extra-strong suds, then boil in a solution of cream of
-tartar, a heaping tablespoonful to the gallon. Boil half an hour; lift
-up; if not white, boil as long again. Keep the boiler filled and the
-garments well under water. Rinse in two waters after boiling, and dry in
-sunlight before ironing.
-
-=Temperature=: Keep the water temperature reasonably even throughout a
-wash—violent alternations “full” every sort of fabric more or less. Very
-fine flannels washed in cold water throughout with naphtha suds—soap
-must never touch them—and dried quickly, hardly shrink at all. Flannels
-generally are best washed in blood-warm suds, with rinse water the least
-bit hotter. Yet the beginning of wash-day wisdom is to wet everything
-thoroughly with cold water before washing. Also put clothes to boil in
-cold water.
-
-=Mordants=: Set colors before washing new garments. Most of the aniline
-colors require acid—either alum water or vinegar. Put four ounces of
-alum to a large tub of water, or add to it a pint of strong vinegar.
-Soak things for ten minutes, then wash. Set madder colors with sugar of
-lead, putting an ounce to a gallon of hot water. Soak twenty minutes.
-Soak blacks, black and whites, and grays in strong salt water, but only
-a few minutes. Buff, tan, and gray linens keep fresh longer if well wet
-before washing with strong black-pepper tea.
-
-=Wash Frocks=: Put no soap on wash frocks—suds suffice after spots have
-been removed (see section Spots and Stains). With delicate colors use
-bran water instead of suds. Tie wheat bran loosely in thin cloth, and
-rub the clothes with it. Use lukewarm water, and work quickly. Rinse
-instantly and hang to dry in shade, but opened out so the drying will be
-quick. Hang carefully—pulling while wet ruins lines, besides weakening
-the fabric—especially if it is starched.
-
-=Table Linen=: Wash in suds, first removing stains and grease (see
-section Spots and Stains). Boil only occasionally. Wash first. Never
-starch. Hang out very straight, warp threads across the line. Take down
-when barely damp, fold, keeping threads true, roll smoothly, iron dry,
-first on the wrong side, then on the right. Use irons below scorching
-heat. In ironing napkins do not pinch the folds with the iron—also iron
-them first the warp way. Instead of folding table cloths roll them after
-ironing upon heavy cardboard mailing-tubes that have been covered with
-white stuff and furnished with wash ribbons at the ends for tying. Tie
-napkins by sixes with ribbons matching those of the table cloths.
-
-=Doing Up Shirts, Cuffs, and Collars=: Soak in blood-warm water until
-starched parts are soft, wash clean, shake out, pull all double surfaces
-straight, pat bosom, collars, and cuffs so the various plies will lie
-together, hang to dry, straight. When bone-dry fold the bosom lengthwise
-down the middle, dip in hot starch reinforced with gum water, rub the
-starch well into the cloth, wring, hang straight, slip a hand underneath
-the bosom and wipe over with a damp, clean cloth, then pat well
-together, pin-pricking any blisters. Starch collars and cuffs the same.
-Let dry, then spread sheets flat, sprinkle lightly, fold tails upward,
-sprinkle again, then, beginning at the neck band, roll up tight and
-smooth and let stand an hour.
-
-Fold lengthwise down the middle of the back, iron body, back, and front;
-iron sleeves from the sloped seam back; press wrist bands first upon
-wrong side, then on right. Do the same with the yoke and neck
-band—fasten it, put in bosom board, spread bosom smooth upon it, keeping
-threads exactly square. Wet lightly with starch water; wipe over with a
-damp cloth. Have an iron just below scorching heat, begin work in the
-middle, at the bottom, hold the bosom taut with the left hand and iron
-toward the neck. Go all over; if any smears come wipe off with tepid
-water. Do the same for wrinkles or warped spots. Hold hard along the
-edges—the stitching draws. Polish with a special polishing-iron, a
-little cooler than the others.
-
-Iron collars and cuffs upon the wrong side until half dry. Press hard
-over the right side and polish. Curl collars around the iron as it
-moves. Finish the band before ironing the outside. With cuffs the main
-thing is to prevent blisters and wry corners—do that by ironing the
-edges first and holding them taut.
-
-=Clear Starching:= For fine lawns and laces. Dip in gum water (see
-section Renovators) a cupful to a quart of boiling water, squeeze
-without wringing, and hang smoothly to dry. Take down when barely damp,
-roll tight and smoothly, loosen a smallish space, and pat between the
-hands until dry. Sprinkle lightly—with an atomizer if possible—and iron
-on the wrong side with moderate heat. Laces need not be ironed—in fact,
-should not be.
-
-=Starches:= A heaped tablespoonful of raw starch to a gallon of water
-makes rather stiff starch—if wanted very stiff use a teaspoonful
-additional. Bring the water to a bubbling boil in rather a wide kettle,
-wet the starch smooth, and thicker than cream, in cold water; take the
-boiling water from fire and stir the wetted starch into it. Stir hard—it
-will form no lumps, hence need no straining. A little lard put in while
-hot and stirred well makes things iron smoother. For starching tinted
-things—as écru linens or brown or buff lawns—color the water with clear
-coffee or hay tea before putting in the starch. Use the black starch
-sold in the shops for mourning prints, or any black-grounded ones. Never
-dip a blueing-rag in starch of any sort. Make blue-water as deep as
-possible, strain, and add to the hot starch. Even with liquid blue it is
-well to strain—specks of blueing, once dry, are hard to get out.
-
-=Curtains:= Dip cream net or madras in hay tea or weak coffee water,
-after rinsing—this keeps the color. Make the tea by boiling a handful of
-bright hay in two gallons of water for twenty minutes. Strain, and add a
-pinch of alum in powder. Most curtains should not be starched. Many are
-better not ironed. Real lace curtains should be dried on sheets spread
-on the floor, every point pinned smooth. Or they can be clapped dry as
-though clear-starched. So can net ones. Frame drying is quickest and
-easiest, therefore to be chosen for all but the finest sorts. Very
-stretchy net should be dried on sheets, lying lightly crumpled. A very
-little gum in the rinse water gives it more body. This applies also to
-madras. Iron madras on the wrong side, taking pains not to warp or
-stretch it. Tucks in curtains, or anywhere, need to be held taut before
-the iron. Sewing of any kind puckers for wetting. Put the least bit of
-starch in muslin ruffles to be fluted. Hold insertions the same as
-tucks. Iron cretonne on the wrong side, when it is barely damp. Chintz
-is exceptional in requiring a thin starch and in looking best when
-ironed on its face.
-
-=Knitted Woolens:= Knitted things like scarfs, sacks, sweaters, capes
-must be washed quickly in white soapsuds, lukewarm, else in cold naphtha
-suds, rinsed, blued if white, and dried in a crumpled heap in the sun.
-Hanging ruins them. Very fluffy things had better be dry-cleaned or
-washed in gasolene. Do this also with knitted silk hoods and neck
-scarfs.
-
-=Lace and Embroidery:= If very much soiled put in a glass or earthen
-vessel, cover with white soapsuds, and set all day in full sunshine.
-Rinse in cold water, press lace smooth between the hands, and wind it
-while damp about a glass jar covered with old linen. Let dry, but do not
-iron. Iron embroidery on the wrong side, upon its special padded board
-(see section Equipment). Made-up lace, as fichus, collars, and so on,
-must be spread smoothly upon a hard cushion, pinned, and dried in air.
-Things lightly soiled can be dry-cleaned by lying buried a week in corn
-starch mixed equally with calcined magnesia. Shake out, brush gently,
-and press under light weight. Moderate soiling is best remedied with
-gasolene, changing it as it grows dirty. Hang several days in air, under
-a thin cover—this takes away scent and prevents collecting dust. Silk
-embroidery on all grounds demands gasolene-cleaning. Spots must be taken
-out (see section Spots and Stains) before cleaning. Press very lightly
-on the wrong side. Treat wool embroidery the same way. Embroidered
-cushion covers must be taken off, well brushed and shaken, also turned
-inside out before cleaning. But clean them right side out.
-
-=Laundry Aprons:= Make laundry aprons of strong stuff, but sleazy—crash,
-denim, or colored linen. Cut kimona shape, with roomy sleeves, and to
-slip on over the head. Set a deep pocket on each side, within handy
-reach. Set a smaller pocket across the front just below the waist. Carry
-clothes pins in the big pockets, safety pins, a handkerchief, and
-wiping-rags in the other. Make wide enough for free motion, but not
-enough to sag under foot when the wearer stoops. Let come almost to the
-instep.
-
-=Ironing-tables:= Make board or table suit your height, so you need
-neither stoop at the work nor hunch your shoulders. Set a table too low
-upon bricks or blocks—if it is too high, have something stable to stand
-on. Make tight-fitting covers for the table of unbleached muslin, sewed
-double at one end, to be slipped over the table edge, and with the other
-end long enough to lap over and safety-pin firmly in place. Have a
-double blanket under the cover, laid very smooth.
-
-In using a board, set it high or low, as your height requires.
-
-=As to Soaking:= Long soaking of clothes is undesirable—it loosens dirt
-but passes it throughout the fabric. An hour is sufficient. Cover things
-that must stand overnight with cold water rather than hot. Nursery wash
-in need of soaking must be kept to itself. So should things from a
-sickroom that are badly fouled.
-
-=As to Boiling:= Boiling is not absolutely essential to clean clothes,
-still a means of grace toward them. Have separate boiling-bags for table
-linen, for handkerchiefs, for fine things like caps and collars. In
-boilers the best is the costliest—namely, copper. Next ranks the
-cheapest—a deep iron pot. Copper-bottomed tin answers with good usage.
-Iron pots will crack if allowed to get very hot before water is put in.
-Any boiler should have at least an inch of water in it before going over
-the fire. Likewise it must be kept clean, dry, and wash-worthy by
-constant vigilance for holes and cracks.
-
-=Irons:= Test by pressing your cheek against the face—if rough, reject.
-Five to six pounds is a good weight. Half a dozen will be none too many.
-Keep clean and dry. Beware of setting them face down upon live coals or
-red-hot iron—heat pits them microscopically, but enough to make them
-stick. Polishing-irons are somewhat lighter and rather different in
-shape. Have an asbestos pad or wire trivet to set irons on. Have several
-holders, if you lack a patent handle, and shift as they grow hot.
-
-=A Sickroom:= Disfurnish of every unessential. Leave nothing that can be
-knocked off or over, or that clatters or rattles. Remove rugs from a
-bare floor, but keep a small one handy for the patient’s feet. Cover a
-carpet with a smooth sheet of something washable. In case of contagion
-take away draperies and pictures. Have the bedstead light and
-firm-standing, not too low, single or of three-quarter size. Set it so
-there is free passage all round it, but not so light glares into sick
-eyes. Place the head at least six inches from the wall, and set beside
-it a small solid table. A couch or single bed, a spacious dresser, a
-bigger table, and at most three chairs are complete equipment. Give up
-the dresser to the patient’s clothes, bed clothes, towels, table covers,
-and so forth. Have three changes of clothes, a dressing-gown, a light
-shawl, slippers, many clean handkerchiefs. A dressing-room attached is a
-godsend—next to it a bathroom easily reached. Lacking either, a
-washstand fully furnished is necessary, also an alcohol or oil stove for
-hot water.
-
-Toilet ware of white enamel is lighter and safer than china. Have in
-addition a foot tub and a deep covered bucket. Soaps, powder, scents at
-discretion—insist, though, upon clean wash clothes, a good sponge, also
-bottles of grain alcohol, aromatic ammonia, lavender water, and camphor.
-Insist also upon a demi-john of disinfectant solution—chloride-of-lime
-for ordinary illness, bichloride of mercury in cases of contagion (see
-section Disinfectants).
-
-=A Sickbed:= Should have a good spring and a light, elastic mattress.
-Lay upon the mattress a pad of cotton tacked between cheesecloth, and
-change it daily. The mattress should have a white cover. Over the pad
-stretch smooth a sheet big enough to tuck in all round and be fastened
-underneath with safety pins. Pin the upper sheet only across the bottom,
-and lay a fold three inches wide in it there, to save cramping the toes.
-Do the same with the blankets. They should be light, not heavy. Down or
-puffy cotton comforts should supply extra warmth at need. Lay blankets
-so the upper edge will come a foot below the headboard. The sheet must
-be turned over them half a foot at least and be met by an outer spread
-light and smooth. Have a bolster rather hard, and three pillows of
-varying softness. Change slips daily. Change sheets likewise, save in
-desperate cases where the patient cannot bear moving. Space permitting,
-such cases should have two beds, fitted alike. Shifting can be done by
-setting them together and easing the sufferer on the fresh couch.
-
-=Heat and Ventilation:= Open fires help mightily toward keeping a
-sickroom fresh. Burn wood that does not snap nor give out any pungent
-smell. Coal should be free-burning. Put it in small paper bags—thus it
-can be laid in the grate without noise or dust. Dampen ashes before
-removing, and keep hearth and fixtures clean by a daily washing. Keep
-the heat steady—the temperature that is ordered. Where there is distress
-of breathing, keep a clean kettle simmering on the fire, the spout
-turned outward—vapor softens air. Furnace heat coming through a floor
-register should be softened by setting on the register a small pan of
-water. With a wall register, fasten in front of it a big sponge, and wet
-it every hour or so. Radiators should have water on top, in something
-wide and shallow.
-
-If windows must be opened at top, set an extra shade at the bottom with
-a hook to hold it in the middle of the upper casing. Roll up the top
-shade, lower the sash sufficiently, then raise the lower shade till the
-edge is level with the edge of the sash. Thus air has free ingress
-without rattling the upper shade. A window which must be raised ought to
-have a light board pivoted into the casing, so it can be turned outward
-at need, letting in air but preventing draughts. With a board a foot
-wide raise the window about ten inches. One window open at top, another
-at bottom will be far more effectual than a single window spread wide.
-Note what is outside; if at any time smoke or the smell of food comes
-in, shut the window. Allow no odors in a sickroom—neither fruit,
-flowers, spiced food, nor scented visitors. This in severe cases; mild
-ones and convalescence demand no such rigors.
-
-=Care and Keeping:= Keep floors clean by wiping with cloths wrung out of
-hot water barely dashed with carbolic acid. The smell passes quickly—and
-is wholesome. Take off dust with damp cloths—litter must be prevented.
-Keep a waste basket handy, also a bigger basket for soiled things. Have
-them removed at once. Put half a cup of disinfectant in any vessel
-before using it, adding enough to cover discharges as soon as it has
-been used. Remove as quickly as possible. Do not keep such things in a
-closet. Rather ambush them behind a light screen set across a corner.
-
-Have a table outside to receive trays, cups, glasses, uneaten food. Let
-nothing stand inside the room. The bigger table is for medicines, clean
-spoons and glasses, alcohol stove, and a supply of ice. Gas light fouls
-air so quickly, avoid it if possible. Electric light has the drawback of
-being hard to graduate. Oil lamps require the nicest care. Candles are
-better. Beware of lighting or extinguishing either inside the room.
-Strike no matches there if possible to avoid it. Even in lighting a
-fire, do it from a candle lighted outside. Keep filled candlesticks on
-the outer table with matches in plenty, and extinguishers handy. Take
-lamps there to put them out.
-
-=Ice=: A nursery refrigerator is well worth its cost. Since it is not
-always to be had, here is a good substitute. Set a high wire trivet
-inside a deep agate pan, lay a lump of ice on it, then turn over it a
-clean flower pot. Plug the hole in the flower pot, and cover thickly
-with a folded blanket if in haste. Time permitting, make a cozy of
-cheesecloth thickly padded with cotton batting and big enough to come to
-the table outside the pan. Empty the pan several times a day. With an
-awl and a toy hammer slivers of ice can be broken as needed.
-
-=Contagion=: Filth diseases—diphtheria, typhoid, etc.—spread through
-effluvia. Discharges of all sorts should be deluged with bichloride (see
-section Disinfectants). Even bath water needs a dose of it before
-emptying it. All manner of soiled things—towels, sheets, clothes—must be
-sunk in a tub of it as soon as taken off, and soaked several hours
-before washing. They need to be well boiled and dried in wind and sun.
-Eruptive ails—measles, smallpox, scarlet fever—have two periods of
-danger—in the fever stage before eruption, and when peeling. Measles and
-smallpox are most dangerous in fever; scarlet fever at the beginning of
-convalescence. Rub a patient in that stage well over with vaseline at
-least twice a day, bathing afterward with warm suds and putting on fresh
-clothes. Change bed linen the same; disinfect with extra thoroughness.
-Put bichloride in the water that wets the floor cloths, and be sure no
-dust is allowed to blow outside the room.
-
-=Disinfection=: Wet everything well with bichloride solution, remove
-furniture, burn mattress and comforts, boil and sun blankets. Scrape
-walls and ceiling, wash well with bichloride, wash floor and woodwork
-likewise, then scour with carbolic soapsuds. Fill cracks of all sorts
-with fresh putty, shut doors and windows tight, and paste strips of
-paper around them. Take off closet doors, but leave inside. Tack a strip
-of tin on the door of egress so it will lie flat against the casing. Put
-three bricks in the middle of the floor, set an iron skillet on them,
-put into it a pound of flowers of sulphur, wet it with alcohol, stick in
-a short length of fuse, light it, go out quickly, close the door for a
-minute, look in—if the sulphur is burning, all is well. Shut the door
-and leave undisturbed for twenty-four hours. Sulphur fumes make an end
-of germs. They also bleach out colors of all sort.
-
-=Poultices, Hot Cloths, Mustard Plasters=: Keep in stock bags of old
-linen or muslin, with drawstrings at top, for poultices. Fill them three
-parts, draw up, and flatten. If they must be hot, have three, keeping
-two in a steamer, with the water underneath barely simmering. Keep
-cloths likewise steam-heated, take out with a fork, wrap in a thick
-towel, and apply over thin flannel to prevent scalding. Wet mustard
-poultices with white of egg to prevent blistering. If severe burning is
-needed, wet with pepper vinegar. Make soft and lay thin net or muslin
-over the face of the poultice. For a slow, gentle burning mix the dry
-mustard one-half with flour.
-
-=A Bandage Jar=: Tear old linen into strips two to four inches wide, lap
-ends two inches, and sew together. Make many lengths—half a yard to
-five. Pull away ravelings, roll smoothly, and fasten. Put a few clean
-pebbles in the bottom of a glass jar, lay paper over them, pack in
-rolled bandages till half full, then fill with absorbent cotton, and
-stand on a plate in a kettle of cold water, which is set over the fire.
-The water ought to reach the neck of the jar and be kept at a
-temperature of a hundred and eighty degrees for three hours or more.
-Take from fire then, screw on jar top, let cool in water, wipe, and set
-away.
-
-Finger stalls in variety, with narrow tapes for tying, thus sterilized,
-are a help to mothers. Teach children to suck wounds or bites or stings
-instantly—it abates pain and takes out dirt and poison. Wash the hurt
-clean, unless a blood clot has formed—it is nature’s own remedy, respect
-it. Put on a stall, hold the hurt finger up, and pour upon it either
-arnica, witch hazel, or turpentine. Draw the edges of a cut together,
-clap on adhesive plaster, and hold until the plaster sets.
-
-=Stanching Blood=: Blood spurting in bright-red jets means a severed
-artery—and great danger. A steady, dark-red stream means a cut vein. For
-either, knot two handkerchiefs hard together, trace the course of the
-blood vessel, put the biggest knot over it, thrust in a stick, and twist
-until the knot presses deep into the flesh. In case of an artery, put
-the knot between the hurt and the trunk. For a vein set it between the
-wound and the extremities. Work fast—a minute may mean life or death.
-
-=Clothes for Nursing=: Wear nothing that cannot be washed; this is the
-first commandment. Wear nothing that rattles, rustles, or clings; this
-is the second, even greater. Light colors are refreshing to sick eyes,
-violent figures distressing. Have sleeves that can be pushed easily
-above the elbow, self collars, and trim fastenings. A single pin may
-scratch your patient. Eschew hard, starchy edges even on an apron. Wear
-a cap—a sweeping-cap is excellent—and change it daily. A long kimono
-apron slipping on over the head is useful for such work as bathing,
-giving alcohol spongings, or massage. One-piece frocks are imperative.
-The simpler and easier the better all round.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                   II
-
-                             INSIDE A ROOM
-
-
-=As to Floors—Scrubbing=: Sweep clean, take out grease spots and smudges
-(see section Spots and Stains). Have a light knee pad, clean brush, a
-bucket of warm water with a clean, soft cloth in it, and plenty of
-either sand soap or a good soap powder at hand. Scrub well with a wet
-brush, putting soap or powder before it. Do not slop—too much water
-swells boards and warps them. Scrub a strip, rinse with a cloth
-moderately wet, then wipe with the cloth wrung as dry as possible.
-Wiping thus quickly takes up the wet dirt clean. Work from each side
-toward the center, finishing at the door. Never use a wiping-cloth after
-it sheds lint.
-
-=Staining=: Sweep twice—the last time with a damp cloth pinned over your
-broom. Give new boards a coat of filler (see section Renovators). Let it
-dry, sandpaper rough spots, then give one or two coats of oil stain,
-using a soft brush and working with the grain of the wood. Keep both
-filler and stain well stirred while applying, otherwise neither filling
-nor color will be even. Finish with shellac.
-
-=Shellac Floors=: Sweep, dust with a cloth-wrapped broom, moving it the
-way of the grain. Fill any cracks or crevices; then give a coat of
-filler, and when it is full dry two coats of shellac. Let the first coat
-dry for twenty-four hours before adding the second.
-
-=Waxing Hardwood Floors=: Sweep and dust, rub rough spots with
-sandpaper, take out spots or smears—if faded spaces are left, rub them
-with sandpaper till a new surface appears, or touch with stain, and let
-dry. Go over in long strips, working from opposite sides with whatever
-wax you like, then rub until hot with a wooden floor pad (see section
-Equipment). A coat of very thin shellac makes cleaning easier, but does
-not rub to so handsome a surface. Put on the shellac after the wax has
-stood a day.
-
-=Removing Stain or Varnish=: Use very strong lye, either from wood ashes
-or commercial potash, with a lump of washing-soda in it. Grease the
-hands well, so the caustic liquor may not eat them. Apply with a big
-sponge or coarse soft cloth, following with a damp cloth wrung hard out
-of warm water.
-
-=Removing Paint=: Metallic paint whose bases are white lead, zinc white,
-and oxides of chromium, iron, and copper mixed in oil hardens to a very
-adherent surface, hence differs from water colors, and has to be either
-burned off with a special torch or planed off. Both processes demand
-skilled workmen. It is better to bring old paint to a taking surface by
-wetting it first very well with turpentine, then, after an hour, going
-over it with wood alcohol and a thick, crumpled cloth. Follow the
-alcohol by washing with lye or strong soda water. Let dry, sandpaper
-rough places, then put on new paint—which it will be the part of wisdom
-to have at least as dark as the old.
-
-=Filling Cracks:= Cracks large or small must be filled before either
-painting or staining, knotholes likewise. If a crack can be seen through
-either, fit into it a sliver of wood before filling, or drive in fine
-brads, leaving the heads projecting across the opening. Bend the heads
-below floor level, and set the brads alternately, several inches apart.
-Make putty or paper dough (see section Renovators). Fill small to medium
-cracks with putty mixed soft enough to squeeze through a paper tube.
-Make the tube by rolling cornerwise a square of tough waterproof paper,
-fastening it, and snipping off the pointed end a very little. Use the
-same as a pastry bag. Else roll lumps of putty between the palms to form
-rather fat worms, lay the worms end to end along the crack, press them
-down with a putty knife, or any blunt, broad-bladed one, making the
-surface smooth and level. If the putty is very soft, sift a little dry
-whiting upon it and press it lightly. Put in paper dough with a knife or
-a blunt chisel or screw-driver; smooth the surface by laying on a board
-and beating it with a hammer. If the dough smears under the hammering,
-scrape away before it hardens. Plug knotholes with the dough, then drive
-brads through it, bend down the heads, and put a thin layer over them.
-
-=Cleaning Waxed Hardwood:= Dust daily with a soft old silk duster, sweep
-with a soft broom in a clean bag once a week, following by hard rubbing
-with the weighted brush. Every three months go over with a flannel wet
-in turpentine, working very quickly, and following with a very little
-boiled linseed oil, applied with a clean, hot cloth. Once a year—not
-oftener—wash clean with weak warm borax soapsuds, wetting only a yard or
-so at a time and wiping dry immediately. Wax or oil afresh after the
-washing, and rub till very hot with a clean pad.
-
-=Cleaning Stained Floors:= Wipe over hard and quickly with soft cloths
-wrung very dry out of hot borax soapsuds. Wipe dry and rub with a
-flannel slightly moistened with crude kerosene. Beware of using too
-much—it will streak the stain.
-
-=Tile Floors:= Tile, the same as brick, stone, and mosaic floors, should
-be washed in warm soapsuds, taking pains not to slop, rinsed well, and
-rubbed dry with a thick cloth fastened firmly over a flat mop. Be sure
-no water is left standing—it will destroy the setting.
-
-=A Matted Floor:= Sweep twice, the last time with a bagged broom. Then
-wipe quickly with salt water, and as quickly rinse with fresh. Both
-waters should be tepid. If there is grime, use borax water instead of
-salt. A yearly wiping with fresh, sweet milk, followed by a tepid
-rinsing, makes matting last longer by keeping the straw pliant. Rinsing
-is, however, imperative; without it the milk draws a pest of flies.
-
-=Carpeted Floors:= Damp with a fine sprinkler before using a sweeper, or
-dip the broom tip in warm water and shake very dry. Then wipe with a
-thick towel pinned tight over a stubby broom, washing it out if it gets
-very dirty. A little borax dissolved in the sprinkling-water brightens
-the carpet. So does fine, dry snow sprinkled on and swept off so quickly
-it has not time to melt. But the best thing to renew color and freshness
-is clarified ox gall dissolved in blood-warm water. Wash the carpet with
-it, after sweeping as clean as possible, using the solution the same as
-suds and taking pains against slopping.
-
-=Rugs=: When possible, sun rugs before sweeping, beating, or
-vacuum-cleaning them. Spread smooth and wipe over with warm, weak borax
-soapsuds, followed by a tepid rinsing. Go over both sides, and let dry
-well before putting down. Half yearly wipe them over either with the
-ox-gall solution or fresh sweet milk. Rinse after either, but wait an
-hour to do it. The animal matter makes the wool more alive. Beware of
-stretching rugs cornerwise. Hang them always with the warp threads
-across the line or the pole.
-
-=Walls, Windows, Ceilings—Walls=: The first thing is to make them sound
-and firm. Fill breaks great or small with plaster (see section
-Renovators). Fasten loose trim neatly in place, spread tarpaulin or
-paper well over the floor, then with a broom or long-handled stiff brush
-go over everything—walls, ceiling, woodwork, and molding. Painted walls
-must be washed clean before repainting. Whitewashed ones need to have as
-much as possible of the old whitewash swept off. Old paper must be
-sprayed with boiling water, let stand till soft, then scraped off. Paper
-will not stick to either hard-finished or whitewashed surfaces unless
-they are washed over with strong vinegar or strong alum water, and let
-dry, then sized either with glue or vegetable size (see section
-Renovators). Put windows in repair before touching the walls, and, of
-course, freshen the ceilings. Remove all the litter before beginning on
-the walls—the less dust there is under your new coverings, the longer
-they stay fresh.
-
-=Wall Hangings=: Paper-hanging is so simple and easy it needs few
-directions. Strike a plumb line before beginning it. Suspend a compact
-weight by a chalked cord from the ceiling to the floor, hold it taut
-there, pull out the cord and let it strike back on the wall. With a
-beginning absolutely perpendicular you can make your figures run
-straight. Have the paper trimmed in the shop, cutting the left-hand
-selvage. Measure in generous lengths, taking care, if there are figures,
-that they match exactly. Lay the lengths, face down, a dozen or so
-together, flat upon a table or scaffold, and cover thickly on the wrong
-side with paper-hanger’s paste (see section Renovators). Beware of
-pasting too many at once—lying makes paper tender. Fold back each length
-on itself, pasted sides together. Open up as you apply to the wall, with
-the edge true with the plumb line. Smooth the middle first, taking care
-to leave no blisters, then work toward the edges, using a soft, clean
-cloth in each hand. Put on three or four lengths, then trim along the
-baseboard. With a border, the top is not a matter of concern, but with a
-molding finish it must be extra neat and firm in place. Make door and
-window casing serve as their own patterns, by pressing wet paper around
-them on the wall. If a corner out of plumb starts your paper askew,
-strike a new plumb line beyond it, about half a foot, split a length of
-paper, trimming it so the figures shall fit those in the length already
-on the corner, lap it from the plumb line over the skewed length, then
-go on keeping the seams straight.
-
-=Choice of Paper=: Here dogmatism is worse than idle. But, in a general
-way, remember blue in all its tones, blue-gray, and granite-gray are
-cool, that yellow warms a north light and goes beautifully with oak
-finish, that red should be eschewed except for rooms used mostly by
-artificial light and furnished in very dark wood, that green in all save
-most vivid shades is restful, that soft wood-browns are excellent indeed
-to soften a glaring light, that white-enameled papers, with the faintest
-relief of gilt in the picture moldings, make the finest possible
-backgrounds for old prints and etchings, and, most important, that only
-plain papers will bear having pictures hung upon them, unless indeed the
-pattern is so soft as to be indistinguishable. Bedroom papers ought to
-be light and cheerful, but not staring. A plain ground with a border,
-deep or shallow, makes a wall that does war with furnishings. A painted
-wall with a cut-out border matching the ground tone is a very excellent
-choice for bedrooms. It gives the color value of paper, and is more
-sanitary and more secure against invasion.
-
-=Burlaps, Cretonne, Linen, and Silk=: All are easily and quickly applied
-to walls, but the fitting which goes before may be a bit bothersome.
-Strike a plumb line same as for paper. Measure lengths, cutting so as to
-match figures. Aim to have the cutting, top and bottom, strike exactly
-in the middle of the pattern—this obviates any waste. Allow an inch for
-turning under top and bottom, unless the finish is to be molding—for
-that tack single. Have your gimp on reels so it will not snarl, and
-provide a great plenty of tacks. Sew lengths together on the machine,
-using flax thread, but not too coarse, a moderately long stitch and
-tension that does not draw. Take pains to match figures and fit the
-lengths to the wall as several are sewn together. This is trouble that
-may save worse, as a boggle discovered quickly is half remedied. Burlaps
-can be pasted on, the same as paper. Other things must be tacked on, and
-the edges covered with molding or narrow gimp matching their colors.
-Tack loosely at first, holding the cloth smooth but taking care not to
-stretch it. The threads in it must run true. At inequalities of wall, as
-in corners, take a tuck on the wrong side, press it flat, and put a line
-of fine tacks in the seam. Use barely enough tacks in the wall cover to
-hold it firmly in place—those in the gimp, which must be set evenly and
-not too far apart, will secure it. Burlap, even when pasted, looks
-better with a line of brass tacks at top and bottom. Cloth is a fine
-wall covering for halls, parlors, dining-rooms, even living-rooms, if
-they are never slept in. But in bedrooms, no matter how careful the
-housekeeping, it is not desirable.
-
-=Painted Walls=: To paint a clean wall requires nothing beyond a brush,
-a step ladder, a can of ready-mixed paint, and a right good will. Stir
-the paint well before taking out any, and keep it stirred well to the
-end. Otherwise your wall will be like Joseph’s coat of many colors—earth
-paints have a trick of settling, no matter what they are mixed in. Begin
-at the top, use steady strokes of the brush, join them well, and rub
-back and forth to an even, smooth surface. Paint as far as you can reach
-handily, then step down a rung, paint below, and repeat. A new wall will
-take two coats; one already painted, unless very much defaced, needs but
-one. The paint can be varnished after it is dry; but the self-finish is
-pleasanter. Calcimine is put on exactly the same as paint, but the first
-coat must be very thin, the second thicker than cream, and the color if
-any, stirred well through the last coat. Remember, with either paint or
-calcimine, the dry wall will show much lighter than the paint in the
-pot.
-
-=Whitewashed Walls=: Brush off loose particles, wash grimy spots clean,
-take out grease spots (see section Spots and Stains), have your
-whitewash ready, keep it hot, do the work, if possible, in dry, sunny
-weather, hot or cold, and provide several brushes—long-handled, short,
-and medium. Have a bucket of water to stand them in when not in use. In
-whitewashing above your head, wear glasses and stand upon something
-stable. Wear also a light hat with a narrow brim, and loose, soft,
-wash-leather gloves. Save strain by having the whitewash pot of handy
-size, refilling from the main supply at need. Use either milk whitewash
-or indoor whitewash (see section Renovators). Wood takes up less
-whitewash than other things—two-thirds as much as plaster, half as much
-as brick or stone. Whitewash well dashed with carbolic acid is the best
-and most sanitary finish for the inside of cellars, stables, and
-outhouses generally.
-
-=Window Glazing=: Take out sash, break away panes, and remove old putty.
-If there are whole panes guiltless of putty, take them out carefully and
-scrape the sash clean, the same as with a broken pane. Lay the sash face
-down, and fit in new panes. Set a tiny tack on each of the four sides so
-as to hold the panes. Then put in glazier’s points—to be had at any
-shop. Small tacks will serve instead. Press in the points, letting them
-lie flat on the glass. Then lay a worm of putty over glass and points,
-and smooth it in place with a blunt knife. Dip the knife now and then in
-cold water—and keep it wiped clean of adherent putty. Smear the glass as
-little as possible, and wipe away smears as quickly as made. Let lie
-until the putty hardens a trifle. Paint it as soon as it is firm.
-Otherwise it will weather and crumble. Indeed, it is the part of wisdom
-to paint putty over once a year.
-
-=Ceilings=: Papering a ceiling it not easy, still not impossible to
-amateurs. It demands a tall stable scaffold almost the length of the
-room—boxes set upon an extension table will answer very well. Cut
-lengths of paper, matching the figures, paste, fold, and apply quickly.
-Begin work in the middle of the ceiling—thus it is easier to keep the
-seams true. Fasten an end lightly to the ceiling, then press lightly
-along the middle till you come to the other end. Sight, and if this
-first length is bias or crooked, loosen it and put it on straight. Press
-on very hard and be sure there are no blisters. Small blisters can be
-pin-pricked and patted down, but big ones require to have the paper
-lifted bodily, the air pressed out, then the paper patted back. Ceiling
-paper ought to have very small figures and delicate tones, much lighter
-than those of the walls.
-
-Fabrics of any sort are best applied to ceilings in separate lengths and
-the joins covered with heavy moldings put on with brass-headed nails.
-This gives much the effect of a beamed ceiling at lower cost. A ceiling
-that crumbles badly should have strips of smooth deal nailed fast to it
-at even distances. The fabric can then be tacked to these with no fear
-of falling.
-
-If a ceiling is too high, never put anything striped on the wall. A
-heavy border apparently lowers a ceiling—all the more if it is put on
-several inches below the ceiling proper, and the wall space finished to
-match overhead.
-
-=Calcimine and Whitewash=: Both are applied the same way—with soft,
-broad brushes slapped back and forth until no grain shows. The surface
-must be clean and free of loose particles. Wash off old calcimine with
-strong soda water and let dry before applying fresh. Put on three coats,
-the same as for walls. The prepared cakes are cheap and handy, but there
-is more certainty and more satisfaction in home-mixing (see section
-Renovators).
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                  III
-
-                        EQUIPMENT AND RENOVATORS
-
-
-=Equipment=: These things will make house-work easier by saving strength
-and temper. Being neither costly nor cumbersome, the simplest home may
-well find room for them or such part of them as it needs.
-
-=A Knee Pad=: Make of stout cloth twenty inches by twelve, stuff two
-inches thick, tack in lines to hold flat, and sew oilcloth upon the
-under side.
-
-=A Foot Pad=: Make two feet square, stuff an inch and a half thick, and
-tack flat. Stand on it when ironing, washing, or preparing food. It
-saves strength and prevents cold feet.
-
-=A Floor Pad=: For rubbing waxed hardwood or stained floors. Get a block
-of wood, brick-shaped, hollow the upper edges on both sides so it can be
-grasped, put a strap across, then cover the lower face with many
-thicknesses of flannel and chamois skin. Alternate them and have leather
-outside. Keep dry and away from dust.
-
-=A Water Wagon=: Screw castors to the corners of a board a foot square.
-A pail set on it can be pushed about much easier than lifted.
-
-=Broom Bags=: Have a set of six—two each of crash, Turkish toweling, and
-outing flannel. Keep clean, and be sure the drawing-tapes are not left
-knotted or broken.
-
-=Brooms=: Have at least two brooms—one stiff, one pliant. Choose fine
-straw of a greenish cast rather than yellow. Eschew painted handles;
-sandpaper is the remedy for rough places. Put a screw eye in the tip of
-the handles and hang the brooms from hooks. Wash before hanging up.
-
-=Floor Brushes=: A weighted brush needs to be kept dry and clean and so
-set that the bristles do not crush. Choose it light rather than heavy.
-See that the handle is set at the angle to suit your height and that the
-bristles are of the very best quality.
-
-=Dust Cloths=: Make of many sorts and sizes, from a foot square to half
-a yard. Cheesecloth, flannel, old silk, and crash—all answer well.
-Overcast edges loosely instead of hemming. Keep clean and dry in a box
-or drawer.
-
-=Dust Swabs=: Tie a handful of cotton, excelsior, or even crumpled paper
-inside a soft cloth and about the end of a light rod. Use to dust walls,
-floors, and ceilings, changing the cloth as it gets dirty. Sprinkling
-the cloth with alcohol, turpentine, or gasolene makes it more effective
-where the dust is grimy.
-
-=A Silk Duster=: Crumple soft old silk into a big floppy rosette and
-fasten to a rod. Use upon pictures and picture moldings, also on waxed
-floors newly polished.
-
-=Ironing-boards=: Shape the blanket, sew up, and fit smoothly, letting
-the small end of the board project bare an inch or two. Draw taut over
-the wide end and sew with flax thread. Make shaped covers of unbleached
-cotton, open at the small end, rounded to fit the other and hemmed. Draw
-on a cover and pin tight at the broad end. Let the seams come along the
-edge of the board. Change covers after use. Have a smaller board,
-similarly covered, to use when sitting down—it is laid on the knees.
-Have also a covered bosom board if shirts are home-ironed, and a smooth
-straight board of handy size, covered with two thicknesses of flannel
-and one of clean cotton, for ironing embroidery or anything raised.
-
-=Sprinklers=: Keep a tin sprinkler with a fine rose for dampening clean
-clothes or sprinkling floors or carpets. If ammonia or alcohol is put
-into the sprinkling-water, rinse the sprinkler well before putting it
-away.
-
-=A Tool Box=: Fill cracks with putty to keep out dampness, hinge on a
-cover, and furnish with a padlock. Keep in it a sharp fine saw, a
-hatchet, tack hammer, brace and assorted bits, chisel, monkey wrench,
-screw-driver, and gimlets. Also assorted brads, tacks, wire nails, screw
-hooks, screw eyes, and picture wire. A putty knife is useful. A T-square
-and foot rule are indispensable. Keep the box stationary, and insist
-that whatever is taken from it shall be put back in good condition.
-
-=A Wax Board=: Cover a small clean board with flannel, sewing it firmly,
-rub the flannel well over with softened—not melted—paraffine, and keep
-for smoothing irons.
-
-=A Laundry Cabinet=: Have a laundry cabinet if it is no more than starch
-boxes set one on the other. Keep in it starch, soap, blueing, Javelle
-water for stains, soap powder, washing-soda, irons and holders, the wax
-board, and sandpaper, which is sovereign for roughened irons. Keep also
-a filled pin cushion and a bundle of clean rags. Close with a roller
-shade instead of door or curtain.
-
-=A Clothes Drainer=: Tack coarse burlap over a big wooden hoop so
-loosely it sags smartly. Nail stout legs to the hoop, spreading them so
-a tub can be set underneath. Drop clothes sopping wet from the rinse
-into the hoop, and save time, strength, and wear.
-
-=A Lead Swab=: For use on marble, brick, or stone—especially good for
-removing smoke and rust stains. Sew a pound of buckshot rather tightly
-inside stout canvas, tie the canvas in chamois skin, and change the
-leather as it grows soiled.
-
-=Sawdust=: Get a peck of clean non-resinous sawdust, sift, and sun or
-oven-dry. Keep dry. Use on floors, also for drying and polishing
-intricate surfaces. Heat for use, but do not scorch.
-
-=Pine Needles=: Clean pine needles, if available, should be kept for
-polishing floors, either hardwood or stained. Heat very slightly and
-strew them in front of the weighted brush or broom.
-
-=Brick Dust=: Beat a soft brick to powder, sift it and keep dry. Use
-with a chamois dipped in oil, else upon the cut surface of a raw potato.
-Especially useful for spots on steel or for polishing pewter and copper.
-
-=A Wall Mop=: Cut washed cheesecloth into even strips, tack as many as
-can be firmly fastened to the end of a light rod, and shake free of
-lint. Clean by dipping up and down in soapsuds or gasolene after use.
-
-=Care of Brushes=: All manner of brushes, especially floor and vegetable
-ones, should be washed clean, scalded by dipping to the back, no deeper,
-in boiling water, then dried, brush down, in open air, and kept dry.
-Whisk brooms should hang the same as full-grown ones, likewise hearth
-brooms. Stand clothes and hair brushes bristles down—this so they may
-not collect dust. The safest wash for them is gasolene, letting it come
-only to the back, not over it. Hot borax soapsuds, likewise used, clean
-without loosening the bristles.
-
-=Renovators—Filler for New Wood=: Sift twice together half a pint of
-powdered corn starch and as much whiting. Stir gradually into a half
-gallon of raw linseed oil mixed with the same quantity of turpentine.
-Take care there are no lumps and keep well stirred while putting on.
-
-=Oil Stains=: Use the same mixture of oil and turpentine. For cherry put
-into the gallon an ounce of Indian red, stir well through, test, if too
-pale add more color. If too deep, add oil and turpentine. Work with the
-wood grain in putting on any sort of stain.
-
-=Mahogany Stain=: Four parts Indian red, three parts burnt sienna. Mix
-dry and stir evenly through the oil and turpentine. Use half sienna for
-a dull tone. To make stains dry quickly add a pint more turpentine and
-half a pint less oil.
-
-=Walnut Stain=: Use burnt umber, an ounce to the gallon. A little dry
-ocher mixed with the umber gives a livelier tone. Red or yellow, or
-both, can be put in, but must be very well mixed.
-
-=Oak Stain=: Raw umber is the basis of oak stain; proportion and mix
-like the others. Antique oak requires burnt sienna mixed well with a
-very little lampblack, also to have two parts of turpentine to one of
-oil. Apply it with a sponge or swab of cotton waste and rub into the
-grain lines, leaving the spaces between bare.
-
-=Wax Finish for Stained or Hardwood=: Melt over boiling water half a
-pound of yellow beeswax with half a pint of sweet oil. Beat hard a
-minute, take from fire, add half a cup of turpentine, and beat until
-nearly cold. Keep covered in glass or earthenware. Apply soft, but not
-liquid, with a clean flannel, and polish by rubbing until hot.
-
-=Dancing-wax=: Used on Colonial ballrooms. Melt together over boiling
-water a pound of yellow beeswax and half a pint of filtered neat’s-foot
-oil. Add resin the size of a walnut melted in half a cup of new unsalted
-butter. Beat well, take from fire, stir in a cup of turpentine, and keep
-covered. Apply soft, and polish with hard rubbing.
-
-=Furniture Polish No. 1=: Equal parts of sweet oil, choloroform, and
-alcohol shaken hard together, rubbed on quickly, then polished by
-rubbing until hot.
-
-=Piano Polish=: Shake hard together equal parts of sweet oil,
-turpentine, and vinegar. Add a very little naphtha, apply with silk or
-flannel, and rub hard afterward.
-
-=French Polish=: For dark wood, especially old mahogany. Melt together
-over hot water ten parts pale resin, ten parts palm oil. Mix, take from
-fire, add eighty parts benzine, one part essence peppermint, and half a
-part essence of verbena. Keep sealed in glass, away from heat. Use away
-from light or fire. Apply with soft old silk, and polish by rubbing with
-very soft silk or flannel.
-
-=The Glue Pot=: Melt glue only as required. Cover dry glue with cold
-water after breaking up well, put salt water in the bath outside, bring
-to a boil, then simmer until the glue ropes a little. Thin with hot
-vinegar. To mend things white or light-colored, melt the clearest glue
-in a china cup inside a saucepan, and thin after melting with gin
-instead of vinegar.
-
-=To Make Glue Size=: Melt a pound of glue, thin with a quart of hot
-vinegar, then stir well through two to five gallons hot water, according
-to the strength required.
-
-=Vegetable Size=: Tie a gallon of wheat bran or cornmeal bran loosely in
-net or cheesecloth; boil for five hours in five gallons of water,
-filling up as it boils away. Add a lump of alum after the bran bag is
-removed. Apply hot to walls or wood.
-
-=Calcimine=: Stir sifted whiting into strong glue size until it is
-thicker than cream. Clear with a little blueing. Thin at need with
-boiling water. Tint with earth colors in powder. Red and yellow ocher
-mixed give a pinkish-cream tint; yellow alone true cream. Indian red
-makes pink; by adding burnt sienna the color is pinkish fawn. Yellow
-ocher with burnt umber gives various shades of brown. Always mix colors
-rather pale at first, try out on a board, then add what is lacking.
-
-=Whitewashes=: Either glue or vegetable size may be the foundation. Add
-a big lump of salt to five gallons of size, stir well, and pour boiling
-hot upon half a peck of unslaked lime. Clear with Prussian blue and
-apply very hot. For sanitary carbolic whitewash use vegetable size,
-dissolving in five gallons, boiling hot, two ounces of carbolic
-crystals. Then pour upon the lime and mix well. Two ounces of
-copperas—green vitriol—dissolved instead of the carbolic acid gives a
-faint-yellow tinge and is a good prophylactic. To kill vermin, as in
-poultry houses, nest boxes, and so on, mix through a pail of hot wash
-five grains of corrosive sublimate dissolved in a pint of water; put on
-as a first coat, and after a while give a second coat of plain
-whitewash.
-
-=Milk Whitewash=: Stir into a gallon of sweet milk enough unslaked lime
-in fine powder to make it thicker than cream. Add a teacup of
-turpentine, stir well, and put on at once with a paint brush. This
-sticks to smooth wood nearly the same as paint, and can be colored with
-earth paints almost any shade.
-
-=Paste for Paper-hanging=: Wet up smooth in cold water two
-tablespoonfuls of flour and stir it into a gallon of water on the
-bubbling boil. Stir hard to prevent lumps, add a small spoonful of
-tallow, cook for several minutes, then add an ounce of alum dissolved in
-half a pint of boiling water. Take from fire and add ten drops oil of
-cloves.
-
-=White Mucilage=: For mending books and making scrap books. Cover clean
-gum tragacanth with cold water, let stand till dissolved, then add oil
-of cloves to keep from molding. Keep in a glass jar tightly closed. This
-leaves no mark.
-
-=Gum Arabic=: For clear starching and shirt bosoms. Get four ounces of
-dry gum, pick over carefully, throwing out dark pieces and blowing away
-dust. Pour upon it a pint of boiling water, let stand till dissolved,
-filter, and bottle. A tablespoonful added to a quart of starch gives a
-high gloss. Two spoonfuls in a quart of tepid water will stiffen fine
-lawn or muslin sufficiently and restore the new look.
-
-=Paper Dough=: Crumple newspaper very soft, tear to bits, dampen, pound,
-and knead well, then wet with strong glue size and knead to a dough. For
-wall breaks, rat holes, filling yawning cracks, or rounding corners, mix
-in plaster of Paris at the moment of application and pound in place
-before the plaster sets. Mix only what can be used at once.
-
-=White Cement=: Mix sifted whiting to a soft dough with white of egg,
-for filling small holes in white walls or cracks in ceilings. Press in
-with a blunt knife and smooth the surface with the blade dipped in cold
-water.
-
-=Sand and Plaster=: Sift together fine sand and plaster, wet with hot
-water, and use to fill bigger breaks in a wall. Wet only a little at a
-time and work quickly. Lay a board over the mortar as soon as in place,
-and beat with a hammer to smooth.
-
-=Putty=: Sift two pounds of whiting into a bowl, make a hole in the
-middle, and wet with raw linseed oil, soft or stiff according to your
-requirements. Knead the same as dough. To keep, pack down in glass and
-pour a little oil over the top. Should be always on hand, as it is about
-the most useful of the renovators.
-
-=Cement for Glass=: Cover isinglass with gin in a glass jar, set in
-sunshine until dissolved, then filter. It should be as clear as water.
-For mending colored glass rub down a trifle of oil color in a spoonful
-of the cement.
-
-=Sugar Cement=: Cook to candy height the purest loaf sugar. Apply hot to
-heated edges.
-
-=Lime Water=: Pour a gallon of boiling water upon a lump of quicklime
-the size of two fists. Stir hard, let settle, pour off the clear water,
-bottle, and keep corked tight.
-
-=Javelle Water=: A bleach so effectual it must not touch colors.
-Dissolve half a pound of washing-soda in a pint of boiling water, and
-add it to a quart of boiling water in which a quarter pound of chloride
-of lime has been dissolved. Stir, let settle, pour off clear, bottle,
-cork, and keep dark.
-
-=Chloride-of-lime Water=: Pour a gallon of boiling water upon a pound of
-dry chloride. Stir well, let settle, pour off clear, bottle, and keep
-well corked, dark, and cool. Dissolve in wood or earthenware—metal
-corrodes.
-
-=Oxalic Acid=: Put four ounces of crystals with half a pint cold water
-into a quart bottle, shake hard and often till the crystals dissolve.
-This makes a saturated solution. If ragged crystals remain, add a gill
-more cold water. Keep plainly labeled “Poison.” Take care not to let it
-touch a scratch or fresh cut on the hands, also to keep it away from
-children.
-
-=Copperas Water=: Dissolve a heaping tablespoonful of copperas in a
-gallon of boiling water. Pour through drains, sinks, or into gutters.
-Sprinkle bad-smelling places plentifully with it and spray it over
-green-scummed pools. It is an ideal disinfectant—cheap, odorless, and
-effectual, withal safe.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                   IV
-
-                      CHINA, GLASS, AND FURNITURE
-
-
-=Washing Fine China=: Never soak fine china, never wash it with
-scouring-soap, soap powder, nor yellow-resin soap. Unless very greasy
-clean with borax water. Wipe and scrape off as much soil as possible
-before washing. Have the water pleasantly warm—boiling water is ruinous.
-Rinse water should be a trifle hotter than the suds. Except in
-emergencies, never put on any sort of soap. Put only a few pieces at a
-time into the suds, wash, rinse, and stand to drain. Have a thick cloth
-on the draining-board—with very thin ware have another thick cloth over
-the pan bottom. Change suds as they grow dirty. Add hot water from time
-to time. Even temperature is the thing. Wipe with soft clean towels
-after draining well, but before the ware is dry. Wash things in sets; as
-dried lay a paper napkin between, and set away the pile upon something
-soft. Squares of Turkish toweling are excellent.
-
-Use a soft thick brush for relief or incised decorations or lace edges.
-Dip it lightly in powdered borax or white soapsuds and rub steadily but
-not too hard. Set things which have held milk, creams, thick soups,
-sauces, or gelatine compounds in clear warm water for three minutes, and
-rub away as much of what sticks to them as possible before putting them
-into the suds. Soap combined with milk or gelatine makes the water
-slimy, the ware sticky. Boiling water sets either milk or gelatine. If
-possible, rinse and wash things soiled with them as soon as empty. In
-wiping do not rub gilt borders—rather pat them dry.
-
-Burnish half yearly with a swab of sifted whiting tied in soft silk.
-Intricate gilding may have the whiting sifted on while damp and brushed
-off after drying. In storing keep sets and sizes together. Set things so
-they will not jostle nor clatter nor tip. Stand platters on edge in a
-special grooved shelf, the biggest at the back. If piled, put something
-between, less to save breakage than to prevent a possible chipping of
-glaze. Things bought in cases should be stored in them, the cases set in
-drawers or on low shelves. High setting invites dropping and ruinous
-breakage.
-
-=Ironstone and Majolica=: Wash in warm (not hot) suds, with a clean soft
-cloth, rinse in hotter water, and wipe almost immediately. Beware of
-chipping, beware also of cracking glaze by setting in heat or boiling
-water. Such ware is porous enough to take up grease and other things.
-Cracked or chipped dishes should not be used except to hold things like
-raw fruit, bread, sandwiches, or dry stores.
-
-=Gilt and Cut Glass=: Remove cream or jelly with a quick rinse, wash in
-suds or borax water, a little more than blood-warm, using a clean soft
-brush on the cuttings. Have a cloth on the pan bottom if the cutting is
-deep, the article of good size. Use white soap—resin soaps get into fine
-lines and stay there. Pass from suds into a hotter rinse water, turn
-over and about, lift, turn upside down, then plunge into another water a
-very little hotter. If the ware is very white, the third water should
-have salt in it—a tablespoonful to the gallon. With glass less white,
-put blueing in the third water, turn about, and set upside down upon a
-thick cloth for three minutes, then put in a box and sift over hot fine
-sawdust—“jeweler’s sawdust” if possible, else dust with fine whiting,
-set in a warm (not hot) place and leave till dry. Brush off sawdust or
-whiting with a stiff brush, polish lightly with soft old silk, and store
-when fully cool.
-
-Glass with silver inlay or incrustation must be rubbed after washing
-with a chamois skin dipped in whiting. Clean decanters and claret jugs
-by putting inside either a few buckshot and shaking them about in a
-cupful of tepid water dashed with ammonia, or else lightly folded
-squares of stiff brown paper with barely enough ammonia water to
-moisten. These remove wine incrustations. If the stains are obstinate,
-fill the decanter with tepid water, add a pinch of borax, and let it
-stand. Tiny pills of whiting wet up with alcohol and ammonia, dried,
-dropped inside, and shaken about, then dissolved out with tepid water,
-leave the insides clear and bright. So do crushed egg shells.
-
-Wash gilt and Bohemian glass—indeed, any fancy glass—with a very soft
-brush and tepid white suds, rinse in hotter water, drain almost dry,
-then polish with absorbent cotton dipped lightly in powdered whiting.
-Iridescent and bubble glass should not be wiped. Drain instead, and
-polish when ready to use with a wisp of cotton. Cameo glass, or any with
-patterns in relief, must be washed with a stiff brush, in weak suds,
-rinsed thoroughly, and dried in gentle, steady heat rather than wiped.
-
-=Pressed Glass=: Wash and rinse in water the same temperature, drain,
-but not too long, and wipe. Beware of linty towels. Be sure to run cloth
-or mop inside water glasses, otherwise they become dull quickly. Wash
-pitchers the same way; water leaves sediment—accumulations of it are
-hard to remove. Imitation cuttings must be brushed—they had better be
-eschewed. Plain, clear surfaces are much handsomer. Bowls set one in the
-other should have paper between. Load no glass thing heavily—the rumble
-or jar of a passing wagon may cause breakage if you do.
-
-=Annealing Glass=: Annealing lessens sensibly the risk of breakage. Pack
-the glass snugly in a boiler, fill with cold water, bring to a boil,
-keep simmering three to four hours, then throw over a thick cloth and
-let cool very slowly. Remove only when fully cold. Especially useful for
-thin tumblers, lamp chimneys, and finger bowls. Put a board or a handful
-of clean sticks in the bottom of the boiler, so the heat shall not break
-things set lowest.
-
-=Knives and Forks=: Have a pitcher just tall enough to hold knives, up
-to the handle. Do not quite fill it with very hot borax suds, stand
-knives in it, and leave till other things are out of the way, then wash
-blades, wipe off handles, rinse very quickly in clear tepid water, wipe
-dry, polish with a clean chamois, and hold with a clean cloth in putting
-away. This to save finger marks which grow often to stains or tarnishes
-upon knives seldom used. All-silver knives can be treated the same as
-other silver or plated things—still pitcher-washing is as good for them
-as any other. Ivory handles or pearl ones, or those of stag-horn or
-composition, all are injured by either soaking or very hot water.
-Carving-sets are frequently defaced hopelessly by rubbing the handles
-with scouring-soap. Instead use only lather, washing it off instantly.
-If suspicious of grease in the seam, wrap a fine-pointed skewer in thin
-cloth and run all around, pressing hard. Wipe knife handles very dry,
-else lay them for ten minutes in gentle heat to expel possible moisture
-around the rivets.
-
-=Restoring Antique Furniture=: Take out grease or ink spots (see section
-Spots and Stains), then go over with a turpentine cloth sopping wet, rub
-and rub and rub. Follow with an alcohol cloth and more rubbing, then a
-wash in strong hot suds, followed by rubbing dry. Now take stock of the
-surface. If there are dents, raise them by laying on very wet
-blotting-paper and drying it with a blazing-hot iron. Repeat if
-necessary—steam does the work. Sandpaper away scratches, or rub them
-with emery and a little oil, or scrape with broken glass. Go over again
-with turpentine to remove the last traces of varnish or grime. Then
-sandpaper to a new surface, and either oil, varnish, or give a wax
-finish (see section Renovators).
-
-Before resurfacing drive up loose dowels, wedging them tight, glue
-afresh rickety joins, strengthening them further with slender brads
-driven in from the under side. Glue broken bits in place—if they are
-missing, make the break smooth and fit into it a new piece. Cut the old
-wood, slanting outward—thus it is possible to drive very short brads
-from underneath. A vise helps greatly in such repairs—the harder held
-the pieces, the firmer and less visible the join. After it is dry,
-sandpaper; if the new wood fails to match the old, stain and rub down
-before waxing or polishing. Tiny gaps can be filled with putty mixed
-with dry color approaching that of the wood. This will take either oil
-stain or a wax finish.
-
-Tighten rickety drawers so they slide easily. Remedy bad feet by
-chiseling out shattered wood and putting in plugs of sound wood to hold
-the castors. Glue in the new plugs, also nail them fast. Grease the
-points of nails to save splitting the old wood. Set them invisibly and
-drive gently, but see that they go fully home. Remove glass or brass
-mounting while resurfacing. Clean and brighten them (see section Brass)
-before replacing. Tighten metal linings about keyholes with putty, put
-on inside. All padding, upholstery, or baize tops must, of course, be
-taken wholly away. Save them, no matter how ragged, as patterns for new
-stuff.
-
-Refinish and repair frames thus stripped before recovering. Very
-handsome things had better be put in professional hands unless you have
-practised upon plainer ones. It is a waste of strength and material to
-put handsome new covers over musty padding or to botch and pucker
-hopelessly through inexperience. In the courage of her economies a
-clever woman learns quickly the knack of upholstery. Minute directions
-are impossible—each sofa or couch or easy chair is so much a law unto
-itself. In a general way, have all necessary things handy—as covering
-muslin, webbing, springs, tacks, twine, upholsterer’s needles, moss or
-curled hair, brads in variety, sharp shears, and stout pliers for
-dragging through reluctant needles. Press out old covers and use as
-patterns for the new. Model your work as nearly as possible on what you
-took away. Remember always before fastening on covers to mark the middle
-of them and set it accurately to the middle of the frame, tacking it
-thence both ways. Pad arms and backs first, then basket-weave webbing
-across the bottom, drawing it very taut, put on springs, fasten them
-with twine to the webbing, lay thin cloth over, put a thick layer of
-stuffing upon it, then fit the muslin cover and tack smoothly to the
-frame. Tuft or leave plain according to style and period. Cut the
-ornamental covering very accurately, sew together, following the
-original, fit smooth, and cover the edges with gimp. With figured
-material, cut so the boldest figure shall appear in the middle of back
-and seat or equidistant from ends of the panels of long sofas. Practise
-upon something cheap—here as everywhere else experience is the best
-teacher.
-
-=Care of Antiques=: Old mahogany, rose-wood, ebony, cherry, or walnut
-differ little in their requirements. Each and several, they film over.
-To brighten, wash in warm (not hot) naphtha soapsuds, wetting only a
-little space at a time, wiping it quickly with a cloth wrung from clear
-hot water, and as quickly rubbing dry. Washing complete, rub hard with
-old silk or flannel, then apply either French polish, piano polish, or
-wax finish (see section Renovators). Put this on with a soft cloth and
-rub in until the surface burns your hand. Washing is necessary about
-half yearly, except in rooms where there is a great deal of gas or
-candlelight and much greasy vapor. Dinner tables in steady use ought to
-be washed and polished monthly. Rub deep carvings with chamois over the
-point of a blunt skewer, changing its place every little while.
-
-=Brass Bedsteads=: Respect their lacquer. Keep water far from them,
-likewise alcohol, gasolene, or naphtha. Smears may be wiped off with
-cloths slightly damp, followed by wiping with one dry and soft. Wipe
-dust away with softened cheesecloth, remove finger marks by gentle
-rubbing with crumpled soft silk or old flannel. Have a thick soft brush
-to take dust from carving or curled rails. Wipe off grease with soft
-flannel and polish the spot with a very little sifted chalk or whiting
-on a clean cloth. Tarnish is a proof that lacquer has been destroyed—the
-remedy is relacquering, but mitigate until that is possible by oxalic
-acid or vinegar and salt (see section Renovators).
-
-Brass trimmings upon enamel bedsteads, cribs, etc., need the same care.
-So do brass frames, trays, etc. Elaborate chasings can be brightened
-without injury by coating thickly with powdered starch, letting it stand
-a day, then brushing it away.
-
-=Mission Furniture and Fumed Oak=: Dust real mission pieces with a soft
-damp cloth followed by a dry one barely sprinkled with turpentine. Use
-any good leather dressing on seats and backs. Neat’s-foot oil and
-beeswax, equal quantities, melted over hot water with twice their bulk
-of turpentine, is a good thing, and safe. Apply soft but not liquid, put
-on barely enough to rub over the leather, and rub until absorbed. For
-fumed and Flemish oak use a soft, thick dust brush, followed by a thick
-cloth slightly dampened. If greasy or grimy, wash very quickly in hot
-naphtha soapsuds, wipe dry, and rub until hot. Once a year rub very
-lightly over with sweet oil, turpentine, and alcohol, equal parts,
-shaken well together. Varnished pieces can have thin white varnish
-instead of alcohol. Put on with flannel and rub till hot.
-
-=Gilt Furniture=: Dust well, and either sift on whiting, let stand an
-hour, and brush off or cover a little at a time with whiting and
-alcohol, as thick as cream, let stand three minutes, wipe with a damp
-cloth, and rub dry with old silk or flannel. Take away specks of whiting
-or tarnish with a swab of chalk tied in silk and wet with alcohol. Cork
-sawdust tied tight in chamois makes a good burnisher if high polish is
-desired. Garlands, bow knots, and traceries need to be rubbed out with a
-blunt skewer inside a clean leather and polished the same way, using
-silk or flannel in place of leather.
-
-=Gilt Frames=: Cover with the cream of whiting and alcohol after wiping
-and brushing away all possible dust. Remove and polish as above
-directed. Repair breaks and chippings with plaster wet with white of
-egg, and paint with the finest gold paint, then burnish. Take off fly
-specks with a cloth dipped in alcohol, and rub away any obstinate dark
-specks or remnant of whiting with the same cloth.
-
-=Upholstered Furniture=: Cover the stuffings with a bath towel, whip
-lightly, shaking the towel whenever it shows dust, then brush evenly
-with a soft bristle brush, wipe out the tuftings with a swab of cotton
-tied in silk on the point of a blunt skewer. Wipe quickly all over with
-a flannel wrung dry out of hot water, following with a cloth wet in
-alcohol. Change or wash the cloths as they grow dirty, especially upon
-delicate colors. Neither cloths nor swabs must be wet enough to leave
-marks. Alcohol, properly used, will leave no trace upon anything. Wash
-the wood in white soapsuds, about blood-warm, wipe dry, and rub with a
-flannel sprinkled with kerosene. This for ordinary wood; very fine
-things, and especially inlaid ones, had better have sweet oil and
-turpentine on the polishing-cloth, and not too much.
-
-Upholstery can be dry-cleaned with starch and whiting sifted together
-and applied thickly all over it. Let stand a day, in sunshine if
-possible, then brush off, going over and over. If there are grimy
-spaces, wet them with alcohol before putting on the powder. Brush hard,
-and if flecks remain take them off with a cloth wet in alcohol.
-
-=Wicker Furniture=: Scrub raw wicker with a stiff brush and white
-soapsuds, rinse, dry quickly, then brush over with turpentine, sweet
-oil, and alcohol, equal parts, mixed, then one-fifth their bulk of thin
-varnish added. Coat well. When dry, rub over with a thick soft cloth.
-
-Dust gilt or enameled wicker very clean, wash quickly in weak tepid
-suds, wipe, and sift on whiting and corn starch, let stand half an hour,
-and brush off. Dry-cleaning alone suffices for things not much soiled.
-Instead of sifting, the starch and chalk or whiting may be tied tight in
-coarse net and used as a swab. Take out spots and stains (see section
-Spots and Stains) before cleaning.
-
-=Porch Furniture=: Porch furniture, whether rattan, rustic, or bamboo,
-needs only to be dusted, well and quickly, washed in tepid suds, dried,
-and rubbed liberally all over with crude kerosene and creosoted
-turpentine (see section Renovators). Dry in air, but away from sun; do
-the work, however, if possible, upon a dry, sunny day.
-
-=Enameled Iron=: Resurface things as they chip (see section Making
-Whole). Wash clean in tepid suds after dusting, wipe dry, then rub over
-lightly with sweet oil and alcohol, equal parts, with a teaspoonful of
-thin varnish added to the pint and well shaken.
-
-=Sundry Preventions=: Crumple tissue paper thickly over upholstered
-furniture before putting on covers—it saves from wear, dust, and fading.
-Newspapers pasted into big sheets and spread over floor, bed, dresser,
-and couch in spare rooms likewise catch dust and stop light. They can be
-gathered up in a few minutes; take care, though, to lift edges first and
-shake dust inward, then fold. Where sunshine falls upon matting a double
-thickness of paper saves fading. Narrow lengths either to hang or pin
-about draperies will keep the draperies fresh. Paper is as nearly
-impervious to dust as almost anything known. Paper bags tied over gas
-globes, brass door knobs, and candlesticks prevent both dust and
-tarnish. Also there is no better summer ambush for articles of “bigotry
-and virtue” than a thick swathing of tissue paper inside a paper bag.
-Newspaper has further the merit of discouraging moths—they hate
-printers’ ink the same as other plunderers. Shut down windows upon
-newspaper, letting it fall well over the inner sill, and there will be
-no fading of paint there nor cakings of dust.
-
-Glue rounds of felt to the feet of all things not furnished with castors
-if you would save polished floors from marking. A brad or two, driven
-upward, the heads well sunk, will add stability. Old soft hats will
-furnish the rounds. Instead, you may use a contrivance now in market,
-which is practically the same thing, also cheap and convenient.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                   V
-
-                              MAKING WHOLE
-
-
-=Rickety Furniture=: Scrape or file away old glue from loosened joins,
-cover with fresh glue very hot (see section Renovators). Tie fast
-together or put in a vise, protecting the jaws of it with thick paper,
-and let stand two days. Reinforce then underneath with iron—a light
-angle iron for corners, strap iron with holes punched along each edge
-for straight breaks. Small light metal hinges often answer admirably.
-Screw everything firmly in place, then scrape away oozing of glue
-outside, sandpaper, and refinish.
-
-A jagged break needs glue extra thick and hot. Brush it well into broken
-fibers, both ends, press them together, fasten firmly, let harden,
-scrape away oozings, and screw on strap iron with holes an inch apart in
-the edges. Put it inside or underneath, and if it shows, as on chair or
-table legs, paint to match the wood, and varnish when dry.
-
-Fine brads, driven in alternately, slantwise, on the under side, will
-hold cracks fast, but not so fast as strap iron. Hinges set in an angle
-need a little wood gouged away so they may lie flat against the wood.
-Fill gaps in a splintered surface with putty colored to match.
-
-=Glass and China=: No cement ever made at home or commercially will bear
-long soaking in hot water or suds. Hard usage is also impossible.
-Notwithstanding, mending is well worth while, wherefore save the pieces,
-and especially save tiny splinters. Otherwise your mending will be vain.
-Twice a year have a mending-day, saving up breakage against it. Work at
-a steady table set in good light but not glaring. Have a white table
-cover, a bowl of hot water, a cup of alcohol, plenty of clean rags,
-several camel’s-hair brushes of varying size, a tumbler of water to hold
-them when not in use, plenty of twine, tying-tape, new rubber bands in
-variety, a pair of swinging weights, and on the floor, out of the way, a
-box half full of damp earth or sand. You need in addition squares of
-deal or cardboard for setting out of the way mended things. Also a pound
-of putty mixed stiff and, if mending ornaments, gold paint and colors in
-powder.
-
-With a simple clean fracture, as across a platter, wash edges very
-clean, using a brush and suds, rinse in hot water, then coat thickly
-with pure white lead rubbed thicker than cream in raw linseed oil. Set
-the larger fragment, break up, perpendicularly in the box of sand. It
-must stand plumb. Fit the other piece to it, and hang evenly across it
-the swinging weights, which are but a strip of strong cloth doubled up
-into pockets at each end and filled with buckshot or pebbles, which must
-balance accurately. Their use is to make the join firm and fine—in fact,
-barely visible. Leave standing several days, then file or sandpaper off
-surplus lead. Lead-mending is the most durable of all.
-
-Mend thin china with white of egg and quicklime. Beat the egg stiff,
-coat clean edges thickly with it, dust with powdered unslaked lime,
-press hard together at once, and fasten firmly. The lime sets as in
-mortar. Sandpaper the break after a week. This is a good cement for
-opaque glass as well.
-
-Hollow things, as cups, bowls, etc., should be set over crumpled paper
-upon a round of cloth, with a drawstring in the edge just big enough to
-cover them halfway. Draw up the string very carefully after mending, and
-fasten. The secret of good mending is to have things held fast.
-
-Rubber bands help mightily. String half a dozen strong ones on a tape
-and tie about the neck or base of anything so rounding strings slip.
-Join the broken part, then put another tape through the bands, and lift
-it steadily until you can fasten it about the neck or over the top. The
-bands must be the same size, and draw equally. After tying the tapes set
-a weight on top of the broken thing. Loop rubber bands around broken-off
-handles, set them in place, then string a tape through the bands, draw
-them together, and pass the tape twice around the body of the vessel.
-
-Build up shattered things bit by bit about cores of putty covered with
-wax paper. This if shape admits taking out the putty. Narrow-mouthed
-things had better have cores of absorbent cotton wound with wax paper.
-It can be picked out bit by bit, using a hook. Putty likewise can be dug
-or rasped out, but not so easily. Things very badly broken need to be
-mended in sections, joining scraps and fitting in splinters. Fill
-cavities outside and in with either soft putty or plaster mixed with
-white of egg. A backing of putty inside seams makes them secure. Keep
-clean fingers while mending. Also keep broken bits clean. If a mend
-fails, soak off cement and begin over. White lead must be taken off with
-turpentine. But failure with it is rare.
-
-If a handle-break goes through in a vase or ewer fit inside the hole a
-lump of putty, then cement edges, and press together, holding something
-against the putty and spreading it all over the break. Hard, it makes an
-indestructible join. Water will not affect it; still, such a vessel had
-better be kept for show.
-
-=Glass=: Mend glass as directed for china, but use white cement, gum
-arabic, or sugar syrup (see section Renovators). Press breaks hard
-together and fasten firmly. If it is possible to expel every bit of air,
-the break will be scarcely visible. For colored glass rub dry color
-smooth in a little white cement and apply with a very fine brush. Repair
-breaks in gilt glass, after mending, with gold paint. Do the same for
-gilt china, and touch up with matching colors any flaws in the pattern.
-
-=Mending Bric-à-brac=: Mend broken ivory with a few drops of fish glue
-such as shoe-makers use. Press very hard together, wipe off oozings
-clean, fasten, wrap in cotton, then in paper, put in a vise and screw
-firmly but not too hard. Metal ornaments can be either soldered or
-repaired with sealing-wax and resin, melted together over boiling water
-and applied very hot. Join broken bisque and clay figures with white of
-egg and powdered unslaked lime unless it is possible to get from a
-potter a little regular luting. Mend torn or loosened leather with fish
-glue, and put under heavy weight.
-
-=Mending Books=: Take out of the covers, press square and solid, then
-paste over the back a strip of stout thin muslin, letting the edges
-project unpasted an inch either side. Dry under pressure, so the muslin
-will be fully rounded. Turn back the loose muslin accurately along the
-edge, paste it plentifully on the outer sides, then lay on the cover,
-press firmly in place, and dry under weight. When dry, paste in new fly
-leaves double fold. Paste the outer one to the cover, the inner one only
-lightly to the book. Removing old fly leaves spotted or defaced makes a
-better job of it.
-
-=Mending Lamps and Candlesticks=: Fasten loose lamp collars with white
-of egg and plaster; make as thick as putty and use quickly. Solder
-broken metal parts. Dust with powdered resin, lay on the stick of
-solder, and apply the hot iron. Tinkering thus needs only a little
-knack. It enables you to stop leaks in zinc or tin—as pipes, shields,
-and so on. Cooking-vessels are quite another story.
-
-=Mending Rubber=: This is a parlous business at best, still can be done.
-Get the best rubber cement, have the break very clean, apply, and let
-harden for a day at least. Breaks in hose, tubes, and so on had better
-be cloth-covered—after mending, of course. Indeed, the life of such
-things is trebled by covering them neatly before they break. Cut strips
-of cloth wide enough to go round, allow half an inch for turned edges,
-fold down, and whip together around the hose or tube. A big pipe can
-have a cover of canvas stitched up. Covering protects the surface and
-takes up a large part of the water strain. Fill breaks in rubber
-footgear with rubber cement, let harden, then put inside over the break
-a piece of strong, thin cloth, shaped to fit and coated upon one side
-with fish glue. The glue goes next the rubber; after it has hardened it
-takes the strain.
-
-=Darning=: Darning is an art, so much so one may well say there are torn
-things not worth a darn. If they are woolen things, mend with rubber
-tissue, smoothing the tear with a warm iron, then laying on the tissue
-and fixing it with a hotter one. Press again on the right side, and clip
-close any loose fibers.
-
-=Linen, Silk, and Stuff=: Lay under the break stiff paper spread with
-net matching in color, press with a warm iron, baste before lifting
-lightly, take up and baste again about the edges. Match thread to
-fabric; use a fine needle, go back and forth with very short running
-stitches, catching the net below, but taking only as deep hold in the
-outside as will make a firm mend. Beware puckers. When finished, cut
-away surplus net and press on the wrong side, then under a cloth on the
-right. If a tiny hole is to be filled in, tack it smooth over stiff
-paper, then with ravelings of the stuff or thread exactly matching go
-over the warp way, setting thread for thread, barely catching at the
-ends, then weave in cross threads, same as the original fabric, and
-press. Or the hole can be cut to a tiny square after basting on paper
-and a matched square inserted and darned in all round. This had better
-have net under it so the join may not pull apart.
-
-Machine-darn table linen as soon as it shows threadbare spots, putting
-them in an embroidery hoop and stitching back and forth the way of the
-missing threads. White net underneath strengthens, but with napkins and
-tea cloths it is better left off. A cloth broken along the middle fold
-can be darned thus over net. But it is easier and better to split it
-evenly, hem the split edges, and trim them with lace, then join the
-selvages with a row of coarse insertion, herringboned in with coarse
-linen thread.
-
-=Darning Stockings=: Children’s stockings last much longer for ripping
-to the calf when new and machine-darning inside them, over the knees,
-sound old tops. Sew up loosely. Darn strong net or thin stockinet
-loosely inside heels and toes; when the stockings come in holes, rip out
-this first application, cover your darning-egg with fresh net, set the
-hole over it, taking care not to stretch it, whip down all round
-loosely, then darn as usual, running threads through the net and cutting
-away surplusage when finished.
-
-Silk stockings should always be darned on net, matching colors of net
-and darning-floss. Tack lace insets or embroidery smooth upon white
-stiff paper and fill in breaks with lace stitches or new embroidery.
-Mend a running break—colloquially, a ladder—by catching the errant
-stitch, sewing it fast, then filling the raveled space with very fine
-herringbone. Fill holes in the instep, or heel, above slipper height,
-with loose buttonhole stitches in matching silk, going across and back,
-catching each stitch after the first row in the top of the one below it.
-Make neither tight nor slack. Infinite patience and a very fine crochet
-hook enable one to fill such breaks with real stocking-weaving. Ravel
-the break to a line, take up the stitches on a very fine thread, then
-fasten on silk and draw up in loops, keeping them on the needle. Fasten
-to the side and work back, drawing a new stitch through each one already
-on the needle. Repeat till the hole is full, then draw stitches through
-those in the upper edge, which has been likewise raveled straight. Only
-very costly stockings are worth such pains.
-
-=Coarse Mending=: Boys and men wear holes at knees, elbows, and on
-seats. Rip seams, cut the holes square, match new squares, and stitch,
-press, and sew up. Seat holes need not be cut clear across-only as far
-as the break. Cut corners diagonally the depth of a seam, but not too
-deep. Lacking cloth for such repairs, take note when clothes show
-threadbare in such spots, lay other cloth under, and machine-darn
-thickly with matching thread, fine rather than coarse. Such prevention
-often outlasts the patch cure besides being more presentable.
-
-=Mending Bed Clothes=: Fine threadbare blankets are worth darning. Wash
-well and darn with soft wool, using a large-eyed needle. Avoid
-puckering. Darn warp way first, then go across. Cut ragged edges smooth,
-and overcast loosely with colored wool rather than bind. Darn tears on
-net, using silk or flax, rather fine. Beware making mends hard and
-lumpy. Comforts should be untacked, the stuffing, whether cotton, wool,
-or down, aired and washed at need, the outsides made into rags, and new
-covers provided for the padding. Cheesecloth unbleached lasts and
-launders well. Make pocket covers of it, half a yard deep, for the tops
-of comforts breaking there and nowhere else.
-
-Old muslin rarely pays for mending more elaborate than running together
-slits. Wide sheets can have the thin centers torn out, the selvages
-joined, and raw edges hemmed, thus turning them into single-bed size.
-Handsome linen sheets, when they break along the hem-stitching, should
-be cut there, hemmed neatly each side, and joined with strong narrow
-linen insertion, or beading, or linen braid crocheted in a straight line
-down either side. Embroidered pillow and bolster cases, when the body
-wears, should have the embroidery cut off and joined thus with insertion
-or crochet work to new bodies—it will last as long. Handsome monograms
-and _motifs_ should be transferred from old linen to new. Cut out,
-neatly baste on new stuff, and sew down all round with fine needle,
-thread, and stitches. If there are holes in the pattern, pierce them and
-sew over well, using slightly coarser thread. Press before sewing, and
-be careful not to draw the work.
-
-=Mending Lace=: Transfer figures from heavy laces, such as hand-run
-Spanish, to new net grounds, first cleaning them carefully, and dipping,
-if rusty, in stale beer or water in which a raw Irish potato has been
-grated. Drain without squeezing, press while damp, then cut out and
-arrange upon the new ground, which has been stretched smooth over paper.
-
-Point lace, being needle-made, can be needle-mended as good as new. Tack
-smooth upon waxed linen or stiff paper, study the breaks, and fill them
-with the same stitch, using the same thread. If the ground is badly
-broken, expedite work by laying under a bit of fine net, matching the
-mesh, and sewing the figures to it. Lace stitches can be learned from
-any book on needlework, and are none of them difficult. Irish crochet
-wears out all over commonly—tears or breaks, though, can be filled with
-a crochet hook, matching stitch and thread.
-
-Mend lace curtains by laying new net under breaks and either sewing
-figures to it or, in case of tender old fabrics, wetting with starch and
-pressing with a hot iron. The starch mend will last as long as the
-curtain. Tiny tears can be thus starch-mended to advantage at any stage.
-
-=Furniture=: Threadbare coverings, as damask, brocatelle, and tapestry,
-require deft darning with a fine needle—several fine needles, indeed,
-and matched silks. Follow the pattern as nearly as possible in putting
-in stitches. Put worn hangings into an embroidery frame and work boldly
-in coarse silks or wool, keeping to the color scheme and using as far as
-possible the woven pattern, but making the new figures hide blemishes.
-Remove linings before embroidering, press on the wrong side, and, if too
-limp, stiffen slightly with gum water (see section Renovators).
-
-=Fur Sewing and Mending=: Fur sewing takes courage as much as skill. All
-fur is mended before making up. Art lies in cutting patches accurately
-and setting them in so the fur lies with that around it. To fill in a
-moth-eaten spot rip out linings and enough seams to let the fur lie
-flat, then chalk-mark the smallest space that will remove the moth
-patch. Cut through along the mark with a sharp-pointed knife, then lay
-the hole upon the patch fur and shift until it matches in color and
-growth. Mark all round, take off the garment, cut the patch with your
-sharp knife just outside the marking. Fit into the hole, tack lightly in
-four places, turn, sew the cut edges together, taking stitches close and
-barely deep enough to hold. Turn every little while, smooth seam, and
-look for puckers; if any rip, sew over. Sewing done, press seam hard
-with the thimble on something flat, then turn and press on right side
-with the end of the thumb. Manipulate until the skin edges lie one
-against the other. Fur garments can be remodeled at home with just such
-sewing. Shape, piece, or mend, sew together, and reline. Very tiny bits
-can be used many ways, wherefore save them religiously. Tails that have
-been partly moth-eaten or lost hair should have the bare lengths cut
-out, the remnants neatly joined. Long furs, such as marten, mink, skunk,
-and fox, are not easier than seal, beaver, and so on, but less apt to
-show bungling work. Astrakan is so soft and crinkly it sews almost like
-cloth.
-
-=Carpets, Matting, and Rugs=: Make carpets as clean as possible before
-mending. Darn with wool and upholsterer’s needles as they lie on the
-floor, matching thread to pattern, unless the pattern is worn away. Cut
-bad spots square, or to straight edges, snip corners, turn under edges,
-fit in a square, turn down its edges, trimming at corners to avoid
-lumps, safety-pin at each corner, turn over and whip turned edges fast,
-then cover with damp cloth and press. Shift stair carpets often enough
-to get equal wear all over. Have an extra step length and turn it under
-at top or bottom to make shifting easy.
-
-Dyeing helps a faded carpet mightily. Put it down clean with thick paper
-under, wipe over with clarified ox gall in tepid water, then with clear
-water, wringing the cloth dry, then paint with a thick soft brush dipped
-lightly in hot dye. Use the color predominant in the room, no matter
-about the pattern. Rub the dye in well, but do not slop nor sop it.
-Treat fine matting, especially in rug form, the same way. Figures will
-show through, but not unpleasantly. Even a grass rug takes color
-readily. Hang smooth and wet thoroughly, let stand to set, then wash
-with weak suds. Dye on both sides. Carpets and mattings must be dyed on
-one side only and washed lightly, after the color sets, with suds, then
-wiped over with either vinegar and water or weak alum water.
-
-Rug-mending needs a volume; here it gets only a paragraph. For breaks,
-tears, moth-eaten or worn spots lay smooth upon something soft and
-sleazy—wool crash is excellent, so is basket-woven serge. Flannel will
-answer; at a pinch so will burlap. Fasten so thread runs true with those
-of the rug. If the original fabric shows appreciably, darn it down on
-the patch, matching the darning-wool to the colors. If there is a
-yawning hole, put the wool double in a very big needle, stick through
-from the top, bring up again in almost the same place. Tie to the end
-above, stick back, stick up again, repeat, varying thread, until the
-whole space is covered with woolly loops. Cut them through, then trim
-smooth with very sharp shears, comb with a coarse comb, and trim again.
-Moth-eaten moquette carpet can be treated the same way, using as many
-needles as there are colors in the pattern.
-
-=Care of Gloves=: Pull off gloves over the hand, not by tugging at
-finger tips; this is the first commandment. The second is, Never crumple
-them. Let lie open from the hand until dry, then smooth, wrap in tissue
-paper, and put away. Sew fastenings the minute they show loose. Mend at
-the first ripped stitch. Glove powder shaken inside before putting away
-after wearing keeps them fresher. Either patch holes in thumb and
-fingers with very thin kid, else cut off the worn sections almost to the
-palm, shape new sections from old kid, sew on, then sew in. Color gray
-spots on the fingers of black kid gloves with a few drops of ink rubbed
-well through other drops of sweet oil. In cleaning with gasolene put on
-gloves, fasten smooth, and begin work at the top of the wrist—there will
-be circles otherwise, especially in long gloves. Wash as though washing
-hands, using a very soft cloth or wisp of cotton. Change gasolene as
-soon as dirty. Rub afterward well with starch and whiting, powdered.
-
-=Cleaning Furs=: Brush well, comb twice—against grain and with it—wipe
-over with soft flannel, then with a wisp of cotton tied in old silk and
-dipped lightly in gasolene or benzine or ether. Ether is best for white
-furs. Work quickly, changing the cloth if it grows dirty. Comb up again,
-and sift over hot cornmeal or sifted sawdust, rub it well through the
-fur, up, down, crosswise, shake out, and hang to air. White furs after
-shaking out should be covered thick with starch and whiting in fine
-powder, mixed with enough powder blue to clear. Let lie several days,
-then shake out, brush hard, and wipe over very quickly with a soft damp
-cloth. Dry-clean light and fancy linings by gentle, steady rubbing with
-a swab of starch and whiting tied in soft silk or cheesecloth. Put a few
-drops of ether or gasolene on soiled spots, rub hard with the swab, then
-with a clean cloth, dipped in powdered chalk.
-
-Furs worn in dusty wind or a foul atmosphere need to be well combed,
-brushed against the grain, and aired quickly. Dry wet furs in air, but
-away from heat. Stretch and knead them several times while drying to
-keep the skin pliable. Shake hard at first, hang smooth, and let drain.
-Unless very wet, only dampness will reach the skin if they are so
-treated. Snow shaken off before melting is a help rather than a hurt.
-Indeed, a good way to clean fur rugs is to drag them, hair down, over
-dry snow. Clean on the floor by sprinkling thickly with hot meal or
-sawdust, rubbing in well and brushing out, then combing.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                   VI
-
-                         MAKING AND MAKING OVER
-
-
-Wherewithal to make of is the first requisite. Here follow some simple
-tests easily applicable and well worth while. Use upon samples, and buy
-accordingly. Things over-cheap, it may be said in passing, carry their
-condemnation in their price. Buying them is extravagance, since they
-cost as much in time, trouble, and often in money for making up as sound
-stuffs and make no adequate return in wear.
-
-=Silk=: Test silk three ways—by tearing, scraping with the thumb nail,
-and burning. Try to tear a raw edge across the filling. If it is easily
-done the filling is either artificial or so loaded it will give no wear.
-Weak warp is even worse—with warp and filling both easily rent, the
-stuff is wholly bad. Pull out a few threads both ways and test their
-strength separately. Easy breaking means that they are loaded with
-earthy or metal salts to give weight and firmness without wear. Scrape
-the surface diagonally with the thumb nail. If threads slip under the
-scraping, let that particular silk alone. Rub well between the
-fingers—pure silk feels smooth and soft; that which is loaded, crisp,
-even harsh. Some silks have the face pure, the back loaded—wherefore
-test both sides. End by burning a bit. Real silk does not burn readily,
-and leaves a black ash. Weighted or loaded silk flashes up, burns
-swiftly, and leaves behind a dull-red ash.
-
-=Woolens=: Test by raveling out and burning. Untwist a raveled
-thread—fibers of even, moderate length show pure wool. If there are a
-few fibers with clots all along them the cloth is most shoddy—that is to
-say, old wool ground up and mixed before spinning with a little new.
-After-treatment makes it look well, but there is mighty little wear.
-Snap a raveling between the hands—the harder the breaking the better the
-goods. Soak a few threads in a little alcohol. This to test the color. A
-tinge in the alcohol is to be expected, but if it becomes deep-colored,
-and especially if it becomes muddy, the dyeing is bad. Cotton mixture
-before spinning betrays itself in burning. Light a few threads or a
-snippet—the smell will tell the truth.
-
-=Linen=: Test linen in much the same fashion: ravel, untwist a thread,
-and draw gently till resolved into original fibers. Cotton will show
-soft, even a little fuzzy, in spite of mercerizing. Linen is woven from
-flax fibers, which are always straight and thready, no matter how fine.
-Burning gives out the smell of cotton where there is an appreciable
-mixture. Test for fading by wetting in white soapsuds and drying in
-sunshine or in front of a fire.
-
-=Cottons=: Prints, muslin, lawns, sheeting, and so on, should be torn
-across and lengthwise to test strength, nail-scraped, and rubbed betwixt
-the fingers to discover if they are dressed too much, and dried in
-sunshine for fading. Use will soften the fastest colors. In buying for
-children get extra stuff and send it to wash each time with the frocks,
-so when needed for re-making there shall be no glaring contrast.
-
-=Forethought:= Begin before the beginning if you would sew easily. Set a
-machine, well cleaned and oiled, where the light will fall over the
-operator’s shoulder. For dressmaking, cover the floor with a sheet of
-unbleached muslin tacked down smooth. Have a form for fitting, a tall
-mirror, a table, with drop leaves if possible, and two bentwood chairs,
-with a low rocker for basting and pressing in. At the right hand of it
-hang on the wall a thin board with wire nails driven from the back in
-treble row. Upon one row stick basting-spools, upon others spools of
-silk, cotton, and twist. Upon a shorter upper row put cheap thimbles.
-Have screw hooks at bottom for hanging shears, small scissors, tape
-measure, pencil, and needle book. A screw eye in each upper corner of
-the board slipped over nails or screw-hooks will hold it fast.
-
-Hang a similar board on the wall back of the machine, and furnish the
-nails in it with spools of thread—all sorts the machine may require. Put
-a hook at bottom for special machine scissors, and hang upon another
-hook a small, flat, open pocket to hold wisps of absorbent cotton for
-wiping off oil, a tiny bottle of alcohol for removing spots of it, and a
-couple of finger stalls and two short bandages to save pricked fingers
-from making blood spots. A starch bag, very porous, for covering such
-spots instantly, is also advisable with fine light-colored work.
-
-Tack against the wall over the table a square of denim holding three
-long pockets, set crosswise, for patterns. Keep patterns folded flat,
-not rolled. Press smooth before using, and let lie till cool, so they
-will not curl. Hang a small well-filled pincushion below the pattern
-pockets, also leaves of flannel filled with basting-needles. Set close
-by a firm-standing waste basket with a wide mouth. Throw into it all
-useless clippings as fast as made.
-
-=Cutting Out:= Spread plain-surfaced things, as silk, linen, serge, and
-lighter woolens, double upon the table, which must be at full length.
-Lay on patterns, having regard to warp and woof threads. Let warp run up
-and down, woof around. In cutting a bodice the woof threads should make
-a sort of belt. Thus they pull true, and the seams are an easy bias. Lay
-on the whole pattern as nearly as space allows, and study economy of
-material in arranging the pieces, but not at the cost of getting threads
-wrong. Cut with sharp shears, taking care to allow for seams when
-requisite. Lay off pieces as cut out, but keep the cloth steady by means
-of light weights. Patterns are best pinned in place, but with long
-lines, as skirts or draperies, books laid on as weights are better,
-besides being easier.
-
-Things with a nap, as broadcloth and corduroy, must not be cut with
-cloth double from each end. If the goods is double-fold, cutting double
-is desirable. Otherwise cut so the nap runs the same in each piece. This
-also applies in case of figured stuffs with a decided up and down. To
-make a waist or coat pattern smaller lay a crosswise plait from armhole
-to edge, and cross it with a lengthwise one of equal width. Enlarge a
-pattern by cutting it across instead of plaiting it and pasting in
-strips of paper. Alter skirt lengths usually at the bottom; either fold
-up or allow extra. If too wide, fold down along each edge to keep
-proportions.
-
-=Basting:= Baste shoulder seams with the upper half of the fronts
-stretched tight, the back held a little full. Pressing heals the
-puckers, which give the smooth fit over the hollow of the shoulder not
-otherwise attainable. Use fine firm thread for basting, with a
-large-eyed needle. Take medium running stitches in seams to be fitted;
-with edges to be held for sewing together make the stitches very long,
-and set them so far back the stitching will not catch them.
-
-=Pressing:= Have a small board covered with flannel, then with muslin,
-for pressing. An alcohol stove for heating irons saves time and trouble.
-Keep it with the iron inside a handy box, upon which it can be set when
-lighted. Do not damp woolen things before pressing. Moisten silk very
-slightly, linen rather more, and cotton, as in linings, most of all.
-Press rounding seams, such as armholes and rolling collars, over the end
-of the board. Press sleeve seams with the small end of the board inside.
-Sew up and press outer sleeve seams before sewing inner ones. Do the
-same with very tiny trousers. Where pressing must be done on the right
-side cover with a thin cloth very slightly dampened.
-
-=Things Applied:= Lace, insertion, _motifs_, and so on, need to be set
-on the cloth and sewed firmly in place, then to have the cloth cut out
-underneath. Turn cut edges back and stitch or sew again. Ribbon
-trimmings, unless gathered, are best put on by hand, with very long
-stitches on the wrong side, very short ones on top. Bands or borders
-applied as hems should be sewed on to the edge, turned over it, not flat
-with it, then basted down and stitched at the upper edges. Hold true in
-sewing on—a pucker or stretching ruins the fit. Miter corners very
-neatly, and stitch upon the wrong side. In putting in a fold or piping
-baste with the double edge even with the edge of the garment, or the
-band, then turn over and baste before stitching. Hold lace a little full
-on rounding edges so it shall not hoop nor draw.
-
-Make fancy yokes, put on the collar, then arrange smoothly on the form,
-put over the bodice, fit together, and set a thick row of pins where
-they are to join. If the bodice edge is finished, pin together—if it is
-to be sewn in, leave it free. An overlapping yoke had better have the
-bodice cut almost full height, and the surplus cut away after the yoke
-is put on.
-
-=Making Over:= Begin making over by refurbishing—cleaning, dyeing,
-pressing, turning. Rip, pick out stitches, take out spots, and brush.
-
-=Dyeing:= Dyeing is easy. Use cotton or woolen dyes according to need.
-But first wash stuffs very clean. Discharge color by soaking several
-hours in suds, or cream-of-tartar solution, boiling half an hour in
-clear water, and dye while still hot. Have a roomy dye pot, drop into it
-all parts of a garment at once to make the new color uniform. Have the
-stuff loosely crumpled, stir down instantly with a clean wooden stick.
-Lift after a minute to air, stir down again, and finish according to
-directions. Each dye has its own special limitations. Knitted woolens,
-as sweaters, caps, and so on, must not be soaked nor boiled, only washed
-quickly, covered with clear hot water, let stand a minute, then squeezed
-out and put into the pot. Silk should not be washed unless very dirty;
-clean with gasolene instead, but wet with clear hot water before dyeing.
-If it loses body after washing, dip into stale beer or weak gum water
-(see section Renovators) or else stiffen with weak sugar water, and iron
-while damp. A black kid glove cut up and boiled in a gallon of water
-till reduced one-half makes a good stiffener for black silk, also for
-mixtures of silk and wool. This, whether they are dyed or merely washed.
-So does stale beer.
-
-Tack lace to strips of cloth before dyeing and leave on them till washed
-and pressed. Dyed net had better be partly dried in crumpled heaps after
-washing, then stiffened and pressed.
-
-=Gasolene-cleaning=: Take out spots (see section Spots), then plunge in
-a clean vessel, pour on gasolene to cover, wash quickly, laving rather
-than rubbing or wringing. Change to clean gasolene, wash again, then
-hang to air at least ten hours. This must be done away from fire or
-light. Press on the wrong side, and roll around a rod or mailing-tube
-instead of folding.
-
-=Washing Silk and Cloth=: Tack, matching pieces together, right sides
-in, wash double in warm white soapsuds, rinse twice, keeping temperature
-even, and hang to dry without wringing. Take down when damp, and iron
-double, going first over one side, then the other. Stiffen by wiping
-over ahead of the iron with stale beer, glove liquor, or cold coffee or
-weak tea, for silk; with very thin starch or gum water for woolens. Roll
-after pressing. Iron cloth the way of the nap, not across it. Figured
-silk and brocade should be ironed on a soft board.
-
-=Freshening Lace=: A bath in stale beer with draining afterward freshens
-rusty black lace, also stiffens it. It must be pressed when barely damp.
-Clean cream and light laces in gasolene, using a very little white soap
-if they are much soiled. Hang to air smooth—pressing hurts the look.
-Lying in powdered starch and magnesia for a week will often freshen
-laces. Mend them before cleaning (see section Making Whole). Shake free
-of powder—dust and grime will go with it—and smooth by laying back and
-forth between the leaves of a big book and putting on weight.
-
-=Trimmings=: Clean ribbons, braids, galloons, and fringes in a bath of
-gasolene, changing at need, hang smooth to air, then press under
-weights, else roll inside a damp cloth for an hour, then press on the
-wrong side with a warm (not hot) iron. Wind braid about spools or tubes,
-and leave a day and night. Comb out fringes and wind around cardboard.
-In dyeing fringe fold compactly and sew inside a thin bag, then dye as
-usual. The bag prevents the fringe proper from matting.
-
-=As to Turning=: Things worn threadbare had better be turned, either
-with or without dyeing. Darn the threadbare spots, loosely and sparsely,
-press—on the right side, of course. Press all over, then take stock of
-needs and materials. Make the most of every clothes opportunity.
-
-=Freshening Velvet=: Raise the pile of crushed velvet by stretching over
-a wet cloth laid on the face of a very hot iron and brushing hard while
-the steam rises. This answers for spots and streaks—with a crushed
-surface or one so faded dyeing will help it, make into panne velvet by
-pressing on the right side while damp, laying the pile all one way.
-Velveteen and cotton-backed velvet dye poorly. Brush well, tack on a
-board, and paint with hot dye, using a soft brush. Let stand in air to
-set, then wash with a cloth and soapsuds, followed by rinsing. Press on
-the right side while still damp. This gives a surface passable for
-school hats or caps, or yokes and cuffs on made-over frocks.
-
-=Save the Pieces=: In cutting down men’s clothes use the worn parts to
-interline smaller new garments. Use the very best for the outside, even
-though it necessitates piecing. Match threads and figures exactly, sew
-fast, and press hard, then piecing hardly shows. Do it before cutting
-out. With sleazy stuff whip over edges before sewing together. Avoid
-putting pieced seams where there will be constant pressure.
-
-=Adaptation=: A jacket or coat worn along seams may be made to serve
-beautifully for a much smaller person by simply ripping all seams,
-trimming, and sewing again. Lengthen skirts outgrown by insets of
-embroidery or contrasting color. Make the waist to match, either with an
-inset or a deep girdle. Aim to make all changes so they shall look
-voluntary, not makeshift. In handing down outgrown garments be merciful
-enough to change them so the new possessor shall not be taunted for
-wearing. This is not hard; a new yoke, belt, and cuffs will transfigure
-a garment, to say nothing of the magic wrought by dyeing. Cut, fit, and
-finish madeovers quite as carefully as new things. Change trimmings—for
-moral and esthetic effect. Make several dyeings—it is piteous to see a
-whole family touched up with navy blue or wine-red or pink. Dyes are so
-cheap, dyeing so easy, give yourself the satisfaction of variety. If
-combining materials, dye them one after the other, the heaviest first.
-It is likely to be deepest. Use the lighter tint according to quantity
-and taste for foundation or accessories. Remember two good garments, or
-even one, will do more good than several skimped and spoiled.
-
-=Millinery=: Steam hats of fancy braid soft, unpick, steam again, sew
-while soft, shape, and wire. To change color, paint over with dye, let
-dry thoroughly, then wipe over with a cloth wet in alcohol to remove
-surplus color. Or wash quickly with white soapsuds, drying in sunlight;
-or wipe over with alum water. None of these are necessary if the color
-does not rub off. Or veil with net, chiffon, lace, or grenadine. Cord
-the brim edge with silk or velvet, and shir the thin stuff inside. Shape
-by bending while still damp. Trim according to taste and fashion. Hats
-of beaver can be steamed a very little, then pressed over an improvised
-block—a fruit jar inverted, a crock, a tin pan, or bucket. Cover with a
-damp cloth while pressing. Begin on something of little value, learning
-by experience. Hats of velvet or silk or lace must be unpicked,
-freshened, and made up anew, using new shapes. Lingerie hats require
-simply washing and reshaping over clean frames with fresh or freshened
-ribbons.
-
-Restore ribbon and velvet as already directed. To improve crushed and
-faded flowers touch the backs of the petals thickly with gum arabic (see
-section Renovators), let dry, then dip in gasolene, lave quickly, and
-pass on into more gasolene which has had a tube of oil color dissolved
-in it. Work quickly, moving the flower sprays about so they shall not be
-blotched nor streaked. Lay on soft paper to dry in airy shade. Big
-flowers—roses, orchids, poppies—had better be separated before dyeing,
-then remounted. Touching up the hearts with oil color rubbed smooth in a
-little poppy oil, using a camel’s-hair brush, is a further improvement.
-
-Stiff fancy feathers can be dyed, not by dipping, but painting with hot
-dye, and taking off the surplus by brushing hard when dry with corn
-starch and prepared chalk in fine powder. Touch mounting very
-lightly—they are founded on glue. If ill-colored, conceal them with
-_choux_ of ribbon or velvet or a made ornament.
-
-Fine feathers should go to professionals—at least, until their owners
-learn to color cheap ones. Draggled soft feathers may be colored with
-gasolene and tube paint, shaking hard while they dry so there shall be
-no clotting. Strip off when dry, and tie the flues into pompons about
-lengths of stiff wire with loops in the end. Wind the wire with silk
-thread or cover with a spiral of tissue paper. Two or three shades of
-the same color tied thus make a handsome ornament for any school hat.
-
-Clean white and light plumes by sprinkling very lightly with gasolene,
-then burying a week in corn starch and magnesia. Shake out the powder,
-beat the plumes steadily but gently against the palm, then comb very
-gently with a coarse clean comb, and hold in the steam of a kettle.
-Curl, if you like, by drawing the flues, a few at a time, over the edge
-of a blunt knife, taking care to draw so steadily there is no breaking.
-
-=Ornaments=: Mark what you wish—buckle, butterfly, star, crescent,
-dagger, or quill—accurately upon rather fine buckram, sew fine wire over
-the outlines, then cut out neatly. Cover with silk or velvet. Make a
-butterfly body of velvet very slightly padded with wings of silk. Sew
-firm, turning stuff well over edges, then sew on beads, any sort you
-like. Make them imitate butterfly markings, cover a quill as though
-flues, fill star surfaces completely, but simply edge crescents and
-buckles. After edging put inside bigger beads, of contrasting color. The
-beading done, cover the whole under side neatly with soft thin silk or
-net. Quills need a stout center wire. Crystal, with a tip of gold beads
-or silver and bronze or jet with silver and rhinestones, deftly managed
-make effective ornaments.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                  VII
-
-                  REMEDYING SPOTS, STAINS, AND TARNISH
-
-
-=Grease Spots in Wood=: Scour unpainted wood with clean sand after
-pouring strong lye upon the grease spot. If it is very obstinate, cover
-with a paste of prepared chalk, corn starch, and whiting wet with
-ammonia, let stand two days, and scour. Grease stays on varnished
-surfaces; wash it off with warm borax soapsuds and follow, after wiping
-dry, by a hard rubbing with alcohol and turpentine mixed. Machine oil
-must be taken out with either gasolene or alcohol, then scoured with
-cold suds—heat sets it.
-
-Dust greasy walls thickly with powdered chalk or whiting, brush off
-after a day, and repeat. For a small but staring spot lay chalk thickly
-between net, hold it flat against the spot, with a very hot iron over
-it. Commonly this will take up the grease. Chalk or whiting wet with
-alcohol to a thin paste and left to dry on grease spots, then gently
-brushed off, will remove grease. But with paper badly spotted it is best
-to take it off and put on a fresh length.
-
-Machine oil on garments old or new must be taken out with gasolene, else
-washed in white soap and cold water. If spots are black as well as
-greasy, lay them face down upon a thick cloth and pour alcohol or
-gasolene through, not rubbing the spot proper, but sawing it back and
-forth against the cloth underneath—thus the black is not imbedded in the
-fabric. Lay thin things spotted face down and dab hard repeatedly with a
-swab of cotton tied in net and wet with gasolene. Move the spots to
-clean surfaces, and swab till clean. Lay silk and gauze, especially
-delicately colored ones, over a layer of calcined magnesia mixed with
-corn starch, and pour through either grain alcohol or chloroform. Wet
-very lightly a ring around the spot of unspotted fabric and work from it
-inward to the spot. This to save annoying circles.
-
-Take grease out of woolens with a flood of gasolene, changing it as it
-grows dirty. If caked dirt shows afterward, wash with naphtha soap,
-applying lather to the spot, holding a very hot iron a little way from
-it for a minute, then washing off with hot water. Instead of the iron
-you may hold the spot to the spout of a boiling kettle, letting the
-steam penetrate it. Greasy coat collars and heavy garments blotched with
-spilled food demand washing in suds besides the washing in gasolene.
-
-For a greasy carpet mix whiting and cornmeal, make hot, sift on thickly,
-cover with gasolene, and rub hard and quickly until the gasolene
-evaporates, then sweep very clean and wipe with a damp cloth. If
-gasolene involves fire risks, leave the powder standing for several
-days, sweep off, and repeat if the grease is not all gone.
-
-Axle-grease spots or any other partly resinous must be softened with
-oil, then taken out with gasolene or turpentine. Washing, even boiling,
-sets them. It is the same with linseed-oil spots. Take them out with
-turpentine followed by gasolene.
-
-=Road Stains=, whether from mud, asphalt, tar, oil dirt, or oil proper,
-are as easy to get as they are hard to get rid of. Let mud cakes and
-flakes severely alone until dry—wiping while wet smears them and gives a
-firmer hold on the fabric underneath. A soft semi-fluid mud, if it can
-be dipped almost instantly in clear water, laved without touching, then
-have water poured through from the back, will be apt not to leave a
-mark—so wash whenever such washing is possible. Where it is impossible,
-hold the stained surface mud side down until dry, then rub and brush
-well before attempting to get rid of the mark. Stiff mud left to dry
-undisturbed will come away leaving but a faint mark. If it is clay mud,
-pour boiling water through it from the wrong side in a steady stream for
-at least a minute. Wet as small a space as possible, stretch it smooth,
-let dry, brush or rub with coarse velvet, cover with a cream of French
-chalk, starch, and alcohol, let dry, and brush off; commonly the stain
-goes with it. This for silk or wool. Wash fabrics need only to be well
-laundered after the boiling-water treatment.
-
-Grimy mud needs to be well wet with kerosene, let stand an hour, then
-cleaned with either alcohol or gasolene. Gasolene or benzine will also
-take out spots of tar and asphalt, but they come away quicker and
-cleaner if first wet with turpentine, then greased on both sides with
-soft lard, and let stand a while. Dip in the gasolene, soiled side out,
-and change the gasolene as soon as it looks dark. Bold big stains may
-demand three changes. After the stain is out spread the fabric smooth
-and wipe all round the gasolened space with a cloth dipped in more
-gasolene to prevent circles. Soften oil marks or those from oily dirt by
-wetting thoroughly with kerosene, washing out later in gasolene as
-directed for tar. Very fine things can be cleaned with ether or alcohol
-instead of gasolene, pouring through the spot and rubbing with a wisp of
-cotton.
-
-Take grease from paper, as books or prints, by laying on thickly
-powdered borax and calcined magnesia, and keeping warm for several days.
-Shut books tight upon the powder and put under moderate weight. Or iron
-over the powder with a very hot iron, shake off, apply fresh, and tie or
-put under weight. A tender old print, much soiled, should be pasted on a
-thin cloth and cleaned with a damp, soapy cloth, then, after drying,
-covered both sides with chalk, left several days, then shaken out and
-ironed on the wrong side, with the right against a soft clean cloth.
-Mitigate grease on leather bindings with the chalk pad and hot iron—it
-is rarely wholly removable. Plain calf admits of gasolene, but for
-anything else dry-cleaning alone is safe.
-
-=Paint and Varnish=: Soak hardened metallic paint in turpentine till
-softened, then remove with gasolene, alcohol, or chloroform. Chloroform
-is the thing for fine fabrics of delicate colors. Use alcohol on white
-stuff, swabbing with an upward motion. Varnish requires little beyond
-the turpentine treatment. Earth paints and calcimine demand washing in
-soapsuds to get rid of the color. Remove paint from floors or windows
-with strong hot soda water or else a cloth well wet in turpentine.
-Gasolene will likewise remove it, but is more apt to smear. Plate glass
-or fine mirrors should be polished with whiting and alcohol after the
-spots have been removed. Wet to a cream, rub on, let stand awhile, then
-rub off with clean cloths.
-
-=Ice-cream and Gelatine=: Such spots must be soaked in clear cold water
-for at least an hour. If on garments that forbid soaking, lay the spot
-upon a folded damp cloth, put another over it, and press with moderate
-weight for an hour. Then wipe off on both sides with borax water, weak
-and cold, followed by several rinsings in clear cold water. Shift the
-spot to a clean place now and then. When clean pin it smooth between
-thick clothes and press dry with a moderate iron. Wash fabrics, of
-course, can be laundered after soaking.
-
-=Fruit Stains=: Soak fresh fruit stains half an hour in cold water, then
-pour boiling water through them and dry quickly. If they have been set
-by soap and boiling, touch them with Javelle water (see section
-Renovators), washing it out quickly. Use only on white things—it takes
-out color as well as stains. Some stains on colored things can be taken
-out harmlessly by covering with salt and vinegar and leaving two hours
-in the sun. Tomato juice and salt in sunshine is another
-prescription—with a bright tin underneath. An apple cut in half and laid
-under a set stain in sunshine is likewise effectual. Take care, though,
-to wash the material well in cold water so there may not be a fresh
-apple stain.
-
-Ammonia removes acid discolorations; it also mitigates perspiration
-marks. Use the spirits, and follow with alcohol and water, dabbed on
-lightly.
-
-=Wine Stains=: Wet wine stains with alcohol or whisky and soak an hour
-in cold water, else pour boiling water through them with the fabric held
-taut, and dry before laundering. This for table linen. Stained silk or
-cloth must be dabbed many times with tepid water, pressing with dry
-cloths between dabbings. Do not make wet enough to leave circles. Shake
-finely powdered chalk on thickly when the dabbing is done, let it lie
-for a day, then brush off, and if a mark remains dab with alcohol and
-water, blood warm, or hold the stain with the wrong side next a steaming
-spout, wiping it off well as soon as it is damp.
-
-=Ink Stains=: If ink is spilled on a carpet, take up every bit possible
-with warm, damp cloths, letting them lie to absorb it. Follow with
-cloths wet in cold, sweet milk, rubbing and dabbing vigorously. Wash
-afterward with clear hot water, then sift on, while damp, cornmeal or
-dry sawdust and let stand a day, brush off, and wipe the spot over with
-alcohol. Lacking cloths, crumpled paper, newspaper, or blotting-paper
-can be used to take up the ink. Never wipe it, and take up about the
-edges first, to save spreading.
-
-Take stains from wood with oxalic-acid solution (see section
-Renovators). Reduce one-half with boiling water, wet the stain, wipe off
-with clear, hot water; if stain remains, repeat the acid. Use the acid
-on white things ink-stained, wetting them first with boiling water and
-holding the stain in steam or close to a very hot iron for a minute or
-two after dipping in the acid. Wash out the acid with clear water, as
-hot as can be borne.
-
-Take ink stains from paper by laying it on a thick cloth, putting on a
-drop or two of acid, covering with another cloth, and pressing with a
-hot iron. Remove to a clean, wet cloth, cover, and press again.
-
-Oxalic acid must not be used full strength on silk or woolens. Weaken
-two-thirds with boiling water, and pour boiling water through the stain
-after wetting with the acid. Test the color; if the acid destroys it,
-try either covering the stain with a paste of French chalk and alcohol,
-letting dry and brushing off, or dropping blazing tallow through from
-the wrong side, and later removing it with gasolene or chloroform, the
-same as an ordinary grease mark. The tallow must be left on several days
-so it may combine with the ink.
-
-=Tar and Asphalt=: Rub tar spots with soft grease, let lie, and remove
-with gasolene or by washing in hot suds. Asphalt should be well wet with
-kerosene, left to stand, then washed out in turpentine or alcohol. Soap
-sets it hopelessly if applied at first.
-
-=Grass Stains=: Rub molasses well into the stains, let lie overnight,
-then wash out with tepid water, repeating if the stain still shows. If a
-brown mark is left, wet with weak chloride of lime water (see section
-Renovators) and hang in hot sunshine or close to a fire.
-
-=Iron Rust=: Take out with oxalic acid the same as ink stains. Else
-cover thickly with salt after wetting in boiling water, lay in sunshine
-over bright tin, and squeeze on lemon juice or that of a ripe tomato.
-Wash out in hot water, repeating if necessary.
-
-=Mildew=: Wet with boiling water, wring dry, then dip in sour milk, lay
-in sun, and cover thickly with salt. Or beat a raw, ripe apple to a
-pulp, mix with salt liberally, and spread on the spots in the sun. Salt
-and lemon, salt and tomato, or oxalic acid will likewise remove mildew.
-The advantage of fruit processes is that they do no harm to the fabric,
-which the oxalic acid weakens somewhat, no matter how carefully used.
-Very fine and choice mildewed fabrics should be covered with a paste of
-sifted starch and laid on the grass in sunshine. Wash off paste and
-repeat till mildew disappears.
-
-=Wax Spots=: Soften, dip in warm oil, let lie an hour, keeping warm,
-wash in turpentine, then in alcohol or gasolene.
-
-=Perspiration Marks=: Try dry-cleaning, sifting upon them over and over
-and over corn starch, magnesia, and French chalk. Rub lightly after each
-sifting. If the mark remains, try ether. Make a swab of soft white silk
-filled with the powder, pour on the ether a little at a time, and dab
-the swab. Put a drop or so of ammonia spirit upon the swab—not enough to
-change colors. If ether fails, deluge with chloroform, rubbing inward
-hard until it evaporates. Such marks are the problem of amateur
-cleaning—the hardest of all to remove.
-
-=Smoke Stains=: Shave half a bar of soap into a cup of boiling water,
-dissolve, add a cup of turpentine, a cup of kerosene, and a half cup of
-ammonia spirit. Mix, and cover close. Spread on the stain, let stand
-five minutes, then rub hard with the lead swab (see section Equipment)
-and wash off with hot water and a thick cloth. If the stain is on
-plaster, as around a grate, use a brush instead of the swab, which is,
-for stone, brick, or marble, a sovereign thing.
-
-=Care of Iron=: Rust is the bane of iron; grease, its salvation. Coat
-anything not in use well with hot tallow, and shake over it, still hot,
-either fine sifted wood ashes or powdered unslaked lime. Wrap in clean
-newspaper and keep dry. When wanted, brush hard with a stiff brush;
-there will be a beautiful surface. Anything pitted with rust may as well
-be thrown away. A merely rusty surface must be greased with clear fat,
-left standing two days, wiped, washed in clear, very hot water, and
-greased again. Three greasings should bring it into condition for
-polishing. Wipe dry, coat with oil, shake on lime, and brush off after
-twenty-four hours. Any alkali without grease predisposes iron to rust.
-Eschew soap and soda in cleaning it. Use gasolene or turpentine or even
-kerosene. A cloth wet in either will take off smut. Polish with crumpled
-newspaper and a handful of hot sawdust.
-
-=Brass and Copper=: Remove tarnish from brass and copper with salt and
-strong vinegar or oxalic acid (see section Renovators). Rub hard till
-bright all over, wash in clear, very hot water, then while still hot
-polish with a clean chamois skin dipped in sweet oil, and a pinch of
-either whiting or very fine sand. Rub quickly, wipe with soft paper,
-heat moderately, and set away. This gives the mellow old look. Copper
-cooking-vessels must be scoured inside and out, first with the salt and
-vinegar, then with soap and sand. A greasy cloth rubbed over the outside
-protects them without being dangerous. If stains are deep enough to
-demand oxalic acid, be sure to wash afterward with boiling water and
-borax.
-
-=Bronze=: Wash bronze with a soft brush in hot, weak borax water, dry
-quickly, keep warm, and rub all over with a clean cloth wet in
-turpentine with the barest suspicion of wax. It must not coat the metal,
-hardly even film it. Make bone-dry before setting away.
-
-=Pewter=: Remove spots with a swab of whiting lightly dipped in oil.
-Wash in weak suds, rinse well with boiling water, dry, and polish with
-hot sand and a stiff brush.
-
-=Silver Tarnish=: Tarnish, like a bad habit, must be checked in the
-beginning. Prevention is better than cure. Keep big things, when not in
-use, well wrapped in wax paper with blue paper outside that, and
-absorbent cotton added. Put inside canton-flannel bags, tie tight, and
-keep dark and dry. Watch all things not thus ambushed closely. Remove
-spots as soon as visible, either with salt and whiting wet with borax
-water or ammonia and French chalk. Rub hard and quickly, wash off, wipe
-dry, and polish with dry whiting or plate powder, or what you will.
-Treat egg-stained spoons with wet salt. Fortnightly at least wash every
-bit of silver in sight in warm borax soapsuds, rinse in boiling water,
-dry with clean towels, and rub lightly with sifted whiting. Cover
-chasings and engraving with wet whiting, let dry, and brush it off. For
-things in high relief fold chamois skin over the point of a blunt
-skewer—thus you can rub the deeps. Count at each washing and keep sets
-together. Upon a damp cleaning day lay a trayful of small things in a
-half-warm oven, letting them stay till hot and dry.
-
-Clean toilet silver with oxalic acid of one-third strength, taking care
-to touch with it nothing but the metal. Wipe with a cloth wrung very dry
-out of hot water, and polish with a chamois dipped in alcohol and
-whiting. Wrap a cloth about the bristles in cleaning brush backs, and
-wipe with old silk after the polishing.
-
-=Things Gilded=: Wipe dust carefully from anything gilded with a soft
-silk cloth, then polish with a clean chamois sprinkled lightly with
-alcohol and dipped in thrice-sifted whiting. Rub steadily but not hard.
-Blow dust from deep carvings with a hand bellows unless a vacuum cleaner
-is in use.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER VIII
-
-                       FOOD: CHOOSING AND KEEPING
-
-
-=Flour=: Perfect flour has a slight yellow tinge and a faint, pleasant
-smell, especially after wetting. Dazzling whiteness indicates bleaching;
-a gray tinge or minute black specks, showing only under the microscope,
-grinding from spoiled grain. Test by gripping a handful—if it remains
-the shape of the hand and shows the lines of the palm, buy it. Gluten is
-a most desirable element. Test for it by wetting a pinch to a stiff
-dough, and washing the starch out of it in cold water. The greater and
-tougher the stringy residue the greater the gluten content. Wet another
-pinch very soft, take it betwixt thumb and finger, and try to spin a
-thread. If it spins, all well; if it does not, but makes only blobs on
-the finger tips, there is likely to have been corn ground with the
-wheat. Another test for corn admixture is to dry a pinch, but not scorch
-it, and rub between the finger tips. Pure wheat flour will not feel
-gritty, but corn, no matter how finely ground, remains a little rough.
-
-Set flour barrels a little above the floor, and do not use the same one
-continuously. Any wooden container may become a harbor for insects. A
-japanned tin can, emptied and aired monthly, is best for keeping flour,
-meal, or oatmeal in bulk. All should be kept where it is dry, airy, and
-free of smells, as all take up taints very readily.
-
-=Cornmeal=: Fresh water-ground cornmeal has a pleasant smell, and runs
-through the fingers without caking or clotting. A musty odor shows it is
-too old. Meal from white flint corn is much the most desirable. Sift it
-at need—the bran helps to keep it. Cornmeal kiln-dried and bolted, as it
-has to be for the grocers to save it from spoiling, is, in a sort a
-libel on the real thing. In it there is not much choice save between
-fine and coarse grinding. Fine-ground makes clammy bread, hence is to be
-avoided. But even kiln-drying should not quite take away the original
-fragrance. Perfect meal shows under the microscope round white grains
-like fairy hail.
-
-=Oatmeal=: Beware that which has much grain dust between the grains.
-Examine carefully a double handful before buying in quantity; if you
-find even one trace of weevil, reject it. Weevil and sundry
-mites—_Acari_ in scientific parlance—are the bane of grain foods if they
-are kept over long. Hence the caution of keeping them in bright metal
-away from dampness and molds.
-
-=Buckwheat Flour=: Fresh buckwheat flour is of a slightly tawny cast and
-a lively velvet feel. Mustiness means age—at first there is hardly any
-smell. Clotting or caking indicates dampness either of grain or storage,
-hence a product below grade.
-
-=Grits and Hominy=: Judge by the absence of grain dust and the even
-grinding; grains the same size approximately cook evenly. Examine a
-sprinkle through a magnifying-glass, and if there are signs of weevil or
-mites do not buy at any price. A pocket magnifier is cheap and handy,
-also it may save you many times its cost in a single month.
-
-=Coffee=: Green coffee beans break with a clean fracture, and if the
-break is ragged or spongy there has been mold or heating. Roasted beans
-should show one-half very dark brown, the other half black but not
-scorched. Crack between the teeth; you can taste scorching. Fresh-ground
-coffee is stronger and more flavorous than that ground in bulk. Also
-there is less chance of adulteration. To test for adulteration, stir a
-pinch of ground coffee into a glass of cold water. Pure coffee settles
-to the bottom, leaving hardly a trace of color. Chicory will rise to the
-top, also making a kind of scum. Adulteration with roasted grain or
-bread or the artificial beans will color the water more or less deeply.
-Keep coffee in bright tin or glass, tightly closed, away from light,
-where it is dry and cool.
-
-=Tea=: Tea is largely a matter of taste and brands, also prices. Very
-cheap tea is undesirable, being commonly adulterated with spent tea
-leaves. Tests vary as much as brands. A safe and easy one is to infuse a
-pinch of tea one minute in boiling water, pour off one-half, and let the
-other half stand, keeping at almost boiling heat for ten minutes. Pour
-off and compare in smell and taste with the first. Artificial color, if
-present, will show as dregs in the long steeping and reveal itself
-further in a faint metallic taste. Various copper salts are the
-commonest coloring matters, and, though the quantities are too small to
-be immediately dangerous, constant use may develop stomach trouble. Tea
-is best kept air-tight, dark, dry, and warm.
-
-=Butter=: Beware butter too yellow, especially if winter-packed. Butter
-colors are harmless in the main, but some constitutions are intolerant
-of them. Look for firm texture slightly grained and a lively, agreeable
-smell. A sour smell and white specks show something to let alone. Keep
-tightly covered, dark, and cool, away from any possibility of taints.
-
-=Lard=: If you do not know, experimentally, good fresh lard, get leaf
-fat, try it out, taking care not to scorch it, and use the product as a
-standard. Lard must be firm, but not hard, even-textured throughout, and
-with almost no smell. Your nose, if permitted, will tell you if it is
-either scorched or rancid—the two unpardonable faults. From grain-fed
-pork it is clear white, with now and then a faint cream tinge. Keep in
-glass or bright tin, tightly closed, where it is cool and dark.
-
-=Cheese=: As to choice of cheese one cannot dogmatize; so much depends
-on individual palates. Get the best you can afford of your chosen sort.
-Good cheese cuts grainy rather than waxy—it is not too greasy,
-reasonably solid, and free, of course, of mites or weevil. Cut a section
-from a whole cheese, then butter well the cut surfaces, cover with wax
-paper, and keep dark, dry, and cool. Wrap the cut-out section in wax
-paper likewise, and keep in a covered crock for daily use. Keep fancy,
-strong-smelling cheeses well wrapped in tinfoil, then in wax paper, and
-laid inside a covered crock, set in a cool place.
-
-=Beef=: Prime beef comes only from well-fatted animals, neither too
-young nor too old. Fat and suet are white, inclining faintly to cream;
-lean a dark, healthy red, which becomes brighter by hanging. Very yellow
-fat and scarlet lean indicate a condition below first class. The meat
-should not cut dry when raw, but neither should liquid follow the
-cleaver.
-
-=Mutton and Lamb=: The fat over the ribs is the best index of quality;
-if it is half an inch or more, the animal was thriving. The fat should
-be white with hardly a trace of yellow, the lean a fine purply red, not
-too deep. Follow your nose in buying all manner of butcher’s stuff,
-remembering cooking will never work the miracle of making sound the
-unsound. Good spring lamb has very white fat, with lean inclining to
-pinkish red. If the rib fat covers the whole surface, all is well. The
-caul fat should be in lumps as big as the finger end. A strong sheepy
-smell of either lamb or mutton shows animals badly dressed, or, in case
-of mutton, too old. Press a bare finger hard upon the outer surface; if
-the meat feels grainy there has probably been treatment with some
-preservative.
-
-=Pork=: Clear white fat and lean of a lively pink-red show perfect pork.
-It cannot well be too fat, yet if there are lumps or inflamed spots in
-the kidney fat, let it alone. Press hard on the skin; it should be
-elastic, and be sure there is only a fleshy smell. Sniff the big
-joints—spoiling begins there. Sniff sausage likewise, and reject if too
-highly seasoned. The seasoning may disguise less pleasant smells. It
-should be red and white speckled, the color predominant; five pounds of
-lean to three of fat is the best proportion.
-
-=Salt Meats=: Streaky bacon should have white fat and dark-red
-lean—yellow fat is undesirable. It must smell lightly of smoke and have
-also a tang of salt. Salt pork must be very white and firm, the lean of
-it showing a dull-pale red. Hams must have white fat, thick and firm,
-and lean of a rich, clear red just the least inclined to purple. Look
-close around the bone; if the fat there is white and firm the ham is all
-right. It must, of course, have been well smoked. But too thick smoke,
-shown by a black-brown color, is undesirable. Corned beef should be
-clear red, firm, and clean-smelling. Dried beef should have a firm, dark
-outside and be a dark, clear red within. If it shaves to slivers partly
-transparent, it is very nearly perfect.
-
-=Poultry=: All poultry save capons can be too fat. But it had better be
-too fat than too lean. Choose light-colored fat and firm pinky-white
-flesh. See that combs are fresh-colored, leg joints flexible, and skin
-soft. Much hard, deep-yellow fat indicates age. Milk-fed poultry, so
-called, is mainly so called—it may have got milk, but much else went
-with it. With ducks and geese, pull open the eyelids; if the eyes are
-filmed the birds are likely to have been killed too long. Freezing
-injures the quality of poultry. Dry-picked poultry is much more
-desirable than that which is scalded. To test for age look at the
-legs—scaliness is a sure mark of age. Press hard upon the breast bone;
-in a young fowl it bends a little, in an old one it is rigid.
-
-=Keeping Fresh Meat and Poultry=: Never put meat or poultry in contact
-with ice, neither lay them flat in dish or pan. Put a rack under the
-meat, then set the pan in the refrigerator, first wiping the meat with a
-damp (not wet) cloth. This until cooking-time. Things to be kept several
-days should be well wiped, laid on waterproof paper, have lumps of
-charcoal put round and about, then wrapped, tied, put in cheesecloth
-bags, and hung where it is cool and airy. Lacking such hanging space,
-lay them on racks close to ice.
-
-=Salt Fish=: Keep salt fish, whether dry or in brine, well away from all
-else. A good place for them is a big box with a tight cover, the cracks
-filled inside with putty and covered outside with paper. Put a shelf
-across for boxes and cartons; stand kits on the floor. Hinge on the top
-as a door, and fasten with hook and staple. Set the box on short legs,
-else put bricks under the corners.
-
-=Things in Glass=: Glass jars, whether of preserves, fruit, or
-vegetables, had better be wrapped in paper, held on by a rubber band,
-and set so as not to touch. They should be kept where it is dark, dry,
-clean, and cool, on slat shelves or plank ones bored full of half-inch
-holes. Light, through its weird actinic rays, plays hob with flavors,
-and may even induce worse things. Yet jellies set in full sunlight for,
-say, ten days gain a richer texture and keep better ever after.
-
-=Fruit and Vegetable Storage=: With a cool, dry, airy cellar have
-movable bins of slats with firm, low legs, whitewashed yearly inside and
-out. Store in them apples, potatoes, sweet and Irish, turnips, carrots,
-beets, what not. Lay grapes, choosing perfect bunches only, upon
-swinging slat shelves and cover with cheese cloth. In a temperature
-around forty degrees there will be no rotting nor drying up, provided
-only sound things have been brought in.
-
-=Canning Things=: The secret of success in canning things is perfect
-sterilization. Do the work if possible in bright, windy weather, out
-doors if you can; if not, in a kitchen very clean and well aired. Bring
-into it no specked or rotten things—decay is a ferment the same as
-yeast, and spores of it spread through the air. It is better to prepare
-things outside. Drop apples, pears, or peaches in water as pared or
-hulled, and keep them covered until ready to cook. Have two kettles of
-syrup, one bubbling, the other barely simmering. Have a boiler of
-boiling water for the jars. Empty a jar just at the moment of using,
-fill it running over with boiling-hot fruit and seal instantly. The
-simmering-kettle is for filling up the other. Keep the bubbling-kettle
-filled with syrup to capacity, drop in barely fruit enough to fill a
-jar, cook for five minutes, then seal. A few cloves and a blade of mace
-in the top of each can improve flavor. Use at least half weight of sugar
-to fruit—three-fifths is better. Invert after sealing and screw tops
-harder when cool. If a can leaks, empty it, reheat, fill, and seal
-securely. Set hot jars away from draughts until cool. Remember, though,
-the fruit which comes out of your cans will be just as good and no
-better than what went into them. Therefore spend your time and strength
-only on good fruit, ripe, but not over-ripe.
-
-=Outdoor Pantries=: Save in the very hottest weather edibles, cooked or
-raw, keep better in fresh air than in a refrigerator. An outdoor pantry
-can be set on a back porch or on legs in a shady yard, or even made fast
-to the wall. A goods box, whitewashed, set firmly about waist high,
-furnished with shelves inside and a door of screen wire, will hold meat,
-milk, cakes, pies, bread, surplus fruit, raw or cooked, and keep them to
-the queen’s taste. Have clean bags with drawstrings to slip over dishes
-of meat, as hams, roasts, a fowl in wait for Sunday dinner. Lay raw meat
-upon lumps of charcoal, put other lumps over it, and wrap tight in clean
-cloth, then lay upon a rack or slat shelf. Put milk in a bright tin
-bucket with a tight cover, stand it in a pan, put in half inch of water,
-then wrap the milk bucket with a thick cloth, letting it touch the
-water. It will keep damp and, by evaporation, cool the milk.
-
-Where ice is hard to get have holes made with a post-hole digger, a foot
-across and four feet deep. Fit stout wooden tops to them big enough to
-lap an inch all round. Put a handle on firmly and screw a stout hook in
-the middle underneath. Suspend things from this hook by a cord or light
-chain, as a bucket of milk, or butter, a bottle of wine, water, or grape
-juice, or a bag of fruit. Fresh meat even can be kept several days, of
-course wrapping it well before hanging it. Rain ruins this form of cold
-storage, but for camps, summer bungalows, and so on it is a very present
-help.
-
-A greater one is a dry well either rock-walled or planked up. Have it
-seven to eight feet deep, wide enough for a ladder, and set shelves
-around the edge. Or it may be simply dug, covered, and things let down
-into it at the end of strings. An abandoned well or cistern comes in
-handy for such use. If deep and dry, whole carcasses as of lambs, sheep,
-pigs, or deer can be hung and kept safe.
-
-=Dried Fruit=: Keep sun-dried fruit in a warm, airy place, sunning it
-often. Look it over for worms, throw out infested bits, scald the
-residue one minute in full boiling water, spread thin, and dry in the
-oven. In a long damp spell bring dried fruit into the kitchen and hang
-where heat will strike it, but away from steam. All this applies equally
-to sun-dried vegetables, such as corn, okra, and green peas, likewise to
-beans and peas full grown.
-
-=Keeping Rich Cake=: Plum cake, spice cake, or iced pound cake keep a
-long time treated thus: Pour a teaspoonful of brandy upon the under
-side, let it soak in, then wrap the whole loaf in a clean cloth and
-sprinkle with brandy. Put into an earthen crock with a tight cover, lay
-a fresh apple on top, and keep shut. Once a week set the crock upon a
-cooling range until warm through, removing the apple while warming. Put
-in a fresh apple every fortnight, and renew the brandy treatment at the
-same time. Plum cake almost demands this keeping, being better for a
-year of it. Other cakes should not be kept over six months.
-
-=Keeping Melons for Christmas=: Plant melons so they will ripen a little
-before frost. Build a rail pen, floor it two feet above ground, and lay
-on the floor a foot of corn stalks well packed. Stand other stalks about
-the edge, then fill in a foot of fresh corn husks. Bed in these the
-melons, cut each with a short length of vine, and the vine ends dipped
-in melted paraffine. Wrap the melons in tissue paper, take care not to
-let them touch nor lie too close to the stalk wall. Cover with another
-foot of husks, packed down firmly, but not rammed. Over these put more
-corn stalks, filling the pen with them. Lay on a slanted roof of boards,
-weighting them in place.
-
-=Fresh Eggs=: A strictly fresh egg has a tiny air space at either end
-betwixt shell and lining. Lying makes the air bubbles rise and join. A
-fresh egg sinks in water end down, one less fresh commonly lies on its
-side. Break an egg, empty the shell, look in the ends; if the spaces are
-lacking it is not fresh. Or boil hard—a fresh yolk will have white
-evenly all round. After some days the yolk will be near the shell or
-pressing against it.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                   IX
-
-                HOUSE PLANTS, WINDOW BOXES, CUT FLOWERS
-
-
-=Soil=: Soil for pots and boxes must be very rich and light. Mix it of
-one-half well-rotted animal manure, one-quarter leaf mold or rotted
-sods, and one-quarter good loam. If the loam is heavy clay make it
-one-half clean sand. Heap and keep under cover, away from sun-baking and
-the leaching of rain. Sift for use. Sprinkle now and again to keep it
-moist.
-
-=Pots=: Use clean pots and sound. Break up cracked ones for drainage.
-Wash pots as soon as empty, stack, and stand in air. Wash again before
-using, dry, then wipe over outside with a cloth wet in copperas water.
-This to prevent the annoying green scum. Repeat the wiping over with
-copperas water about once a month. Keep pot surfaces clean—their dull
-red, so kept, is more artistic than any jardinière. Further, it makes
-for plant health—a clean pot admits air to the roots.
-
-=Window Boxes=: Window boxes must be well drained. If set outside it is
-imperative that they be made fast. Lacking regular window guards, use
-hooks and staples. Paint wooden boxes dull green outside and white
-inside. Choose tile ones to harmonize with walls and windows. Have
-uniform boxes for a row of windows—this applies equally to boxes proper
-and what grows in them. Indoor boxes should have zinc trays fitted to
-them, with strips laid across to insure drainage.
-
-=Potting=: Pots must be proportioned to their contents. A hyacinth bulb
-will thrive in a four-inch pot. A clump of three will grow in a six-inch
-one; it should be shallow. A shallow eight-inch pot will hold a dozen
-tulips or Roman hyacinths or two dozen crocuses. Broad pots, rather
-shallow, are best for all manner of bulbs save the tall-growing lilies,
-such as the Amaryllis family, Auratum, and Easter lilies. Plant rooted
-cuttings in two-inch pots, shifting them as they grow. Over-potting is a
-drawback, especially with flowering things. Do not shift until the pot
-is filled with roots—test for that by turning out—and shift to the next
-size. Seasonal bulbs rarely require shifting, but those kept year in and
-out must be separated from their offsets and given fresh earth. In
-shifting put an inch of broken pot in first, arranging a big bit over
-the hole, fill in a little earth, then set the plant upon it; the ball
-at its root should come within an inch of the top. Hold it plumb and
-fill in sifted earth about it, shaking the pot gently after each
-handful. Shake hard when the pot is full; fill in chinks around the edge
-and put a little fresh earth on top, then water freely but without
-splashing. Let it drain and set in place. Always have something
-underneath to catch the drip. Glazed ware is better than the clay
-saucers—they make damp spots.
-
-Plant bulbs their own depth in earth except the finer lilies. Set them
-only a little way in earth. It is safer to make a little hole in the
-earth, put in a handful of clean sand, and bed the bulb in the sand.
-Keep very wet—sand will not rot the bulb surface. Fill up with soil an
-inch higher, but keep it away from the bulb with a sand blanket, and put
-a very thin layer of sand on top. Plant ordinary bulbs in succession
-from September to December, keep damp and dark for some weeks to insure
-root growth, then bring to light, water, and fertilize, turning every
-three days to make symmetrical.
-
-=Plant Choice=: No plant will live long without light—few will thrive
-without more or less sunlight. The green-and-white Aspidastra is the
-hardiest in this respect. Plants used for interior decoration must be
-often shifted, set in light, fertilized, and bathed till thrifty, while
-others in good condition take their places. Weekly changes will maintain
-a proper effect. Palms and ferns are most satisfactory for such uses;
-flowering things get ragged very quickly. Begonias carefully tended and
-not allowed to dry out nor get hot make a brave showing. So do
-wax-leafed woody things—dwarf orange and lemon trees, rubber trees,
-dwarf evergreens and box trees.
-
-=Plants for a North Light=: Fuschia stands pre-eminent, next to that
-thrifty ferns, ivy of both sorts, dwarf evergreens, spiderwort,
-moneywort, and trailing box vine. An hour or two of sunlight will
-suffice for all these, other conditions to their mind; also, in their
-season, for pansies, violets, and the dwarf Japanese morning glories so
-wonderful in color and texture.
-
-=Filling Window Boxes=: Make fast, put a layer of broken pot over the
-bottom, upon that a very thin layer of excelsior. Cover two inches deep
-with fine earth, then arrange roots of your trailers along the outer
-edge and bank up with more earth. Next put in the plants, crowding them
-rather thickly, pack earth around and about them, water freely, make
-sure all plants stand straight, then shower plentifully, using a fine
-sprinkler. Water every day—twice daily in very hot weather—shower every
-other day, and fertilize once a week. This if the plants thrive. If they
-turn a sickly yellow, starve a bit, after watering plentifully with
-water a little too hot to bear your hand in.
-
-=Choice of Window Plants=: Flowering geraniums deserve first place for a
-season’s bloom. White and pink ones smothered in green look better
-against a red brick wall than scarlet or crimson. But scarlet and white,
-or scarlet and crimson with feathery green, such as asparagus sprengeri,
-are beautiful against white walls, brown or buff ones, or any sort of
-stone. Pansies with alyssum edges are lovely while they last. Choose
-them for early spring, putting in geraniums or primroses later. Potted
-bulbs show beautifully in window boxes with edges of trailing green.
-Rose geraniums in window boxes help to drive away flies. Piazza boxes in
-midsummer have nothing more effective than the savage splendors of
-gladioli. Plant in double row, starting the bulbs in pots and setting
-out when a foot high. Nasturtiums also make a splendid show. So do all
-the tribe of begonia, provided the sun is not too hot. Morning and
-evening rays suit them.
-
-=Palms and Ferns=: Small thrifty plants need to be shifted yearly. After
-they reach a good size do not shift, fertilize instead. Keep pot
-surfaces clean, set at least a foot above the floor, water plentifully
-and regularly, but do not let it stand at the roots. Sprinkle or wipe
-with a damp cloth weekly, and monthly give a plunge bath in your own
-bath water. Let stand till barely tepid, then tie a cloth over the
-earth, and lay your plant on its side in the tub. Splash and scrub well,
-set upright, drain off water, and shower well with clear, clean water.
-Bathing thus is the best insurance of health and a protection against
-the depredations of every sort of pest.
-
-=Roses and Woody Things in General=: Only a very few roses are adapted
-to house culture unless there is a greenhouse for their refreshing. The
-catalogues name them. Get vigorous year-old plants and bake the earth
-for planting them at least an hour in a moderate oven. This to insure
-against the beetle which lives in earth and has no other cure than
-prevention. Make the earth very fine, sift it lightly through the roots,
-water well, put on more earth, wet it, fill up the pot, drench, drain,
-and set in light, but away from sunlight, for several days. Pinch off
-any flower buds, also new ones appearing before the rose is well
-established. After thrifty growth sets in let bloom, but not overbloom.
-Pinch off all but the most promising buds. Water with tepid suds weekly.
-In between give liquid manure. Make it strong—roses are gross feeders.
-Bathe often, keep warm and in light, turning every other day. The
-many-flowered roses sold around the holidays are good for nothing but to
-be set out in the border after their bloom is past.
-
-Fuchsias, azaleas, lemon verbenas, the spireas, and genesta require much
-the same care. Fuchsias, as has been said, do not demand full sun. Also
-they like a moderate temperature. The others thrive in heat and light.
-So do camellias and gardenias. These, however, are apt to disappoint
-anybody without a genius for growing things. Rubber trees too big for
-the plunge bath must have their leaves well wiped with white soapsuds,
-then with clear water. Tall palms demand the same care. All plants need
-a moist atmosphere, so keep water on radiators and wet sponges over
-registers. This is as good for people as for plants.
-
-=Fertilizers and Fertilizing=: Liquid manure is an ideal fertilizer so
-far as concerns the plants themselves. It has the drawback of a bad
-odor. To use it set the plants outdoors, give in sufficient quantity,
-let soak in, then water well with warm water and leave to air some
-hours. To make, put well-rotted manure in something tight, pour boiling
-water upon it, stir well, and let stand. Stir again before dipping
-out—it should be as thick as cream. After using it on window boxes close
-the windows until the smell is gone. Things too big to move can be
-fertilized and the windows left open, closing doors—so fertilize in mild
-weather. The odor will pass in two hours if the tepid watering has been
-thorough.
-
-Many good commercial fertilizers are almost or quite odorless—ammoniated
-bone meal, for example. There is also a fertilizer in lozenge form which
-is scentless and wonderfully effective. Dissolve a lozenge in boiling
-water, let stand all night, then stir well and apply. Give a teacup—the
-same as of liquid manure—to a ten-inch pot, a tablespoonful to a
-four-inch one, and half that to a thumb pot. A quart will be none too
-much for a three-foot window box filled with soft-stemmed plants. They
-demand more than woody plants. Over-fertilizing is bad—it turns leaves
-yellow and scants bloom. Plants suffer indigestion the same as people.
-The remedy for it is to set them in a sink or on a grating and pour hot
-(not boiling) water through the pot until it runs out clear.
-
-=Insects and Insecticides=: Insects are the pest of house plants. The
-worst of them are plant lice, mealy bugs, white and black flies, red
-spider, and the various scales. All are fought with pretty much the same
-weapons—namely, soap and water, smoke, and eternal vigilance.
-Greenhouses and hothouses are almost universally infested. Hence every
-new plant must be suspected. Do not set it among other plants clean and
-thrifty for at least a fortnight, and then only after a thorough bath. A
-plant badly infested had better be thrown away, and quickly. Flies white
-and black are hardest to fight; they fly away at a touch on the pot. Set
-the infested plant apart, with a stick standing higher than itself fast
-in earth, throw a thin cloth over, letting it reach the ground all
-around, then slip under it a lighted smudge, and set over cloth and
-plant either a box or a barrel, with paper pasted over the cracks. Let
-stand two hours, then plunge in a tepid bath, keeping on the cloth until
-well under water. This to hold in any flies left living. Splash well,
-drain, and while damp dust with either insect powder or finely crumbled
-tobacco, putting it on both sides of the leaves.
-
-For plant lice spray thickly with strong tobacco water, leave an hour,
-then bathe, and dust with more tobacco. A little flowers of sulphur
-mixed in makes the treatment more effectual. Bathe in suds (carbolic
-soap, if possible) next day, and follow with a clear tepid shower.
-
-Red spider is invisible until it appears as red blotches upon foliage.
-Water, and still more water, combined with smoking cures it. Shower
-infested plants heavily every day for a fortnight, smoke with tobacco
-twice a week, and keep well dusted with either tobacco or pyrethrum
-powder. Mealy bugs, which are white and woolly, as big as grains of
-wheat, should have a sulphur dusting after smoking and bathing. All the
-big scales, which are never very numerous unless plants are fatally
-neglected, should be hand-picked, then the plant well washed with
-whale-oil soapsuds dashed with carbolic acid. San José scale, which is
-almost invisible but feels like fine rough sand upon the under sides of
-leaves and over stalks, is so deadly and difficult any plant found
-infested should be burned at once, the pot broken, and the earth soaked
-with boiling water. Cures for it there are, but too difficult for
-amateurs, withal somewhat dangerous.
-
-Buy tobacco dust, make tobacco water. Pour a gallon of boiling water
-upon a pound of tobacco stems, let stand a day, keeping warm, strain and
-use. Cut the spent stems fine and mix through potting soil. Enough
-tobacco water to color it mixed in makes a plunge bath more effective
-against insects. Make smudges thus: put a few slivers of wood or half a
-dozen matches crossed in a small flat tin, cover with either pyrethrum
-powder, tobacco dust, cut up stalks, unspent, or flowers of sulphur
-mixed with fine damp sawdust. Light, see that there is not too much
-blaze, and set beneath plants. Do not make smudges big enough to give
-out scalding heat; better two or three small ones if heavy smoke is
-required.
-
-Red rust and brown scale, the special enemies of palms, need to be
-washed off with strong carbolic soapsuds and a soft brush before bathing
-and smoking.
-
-=Earth Worms=: Lime water is the remedy for earth worms. Stick holes in
-the earth quite to the bottom, then pour on clear lime water (see
-section Renovators) till it stands on top. The worms will crawl up to
-escape it. Lime water is also good to sweeten sour earth. Give a half
-cup after the hot-water treatment. Dig up the earth in pots so as to
-keep a light, clean surface. Green scum, while not dangerous, does not
-make for plant health.
-
-=For Roaches=, dip cut potatoes in arsenic mixed with sugar and lay cut
-side down on the pots and about them. Gather up every morning, dropping
-instantly into a vessel of boiling water—this to destroy such insects as
-remain alive. But never put out poison if there are children in the
-house.
-
-=Cuttings=: Cuttings root best in clean sand, kept very wet and warm and
-under glass. Make the cuttings of new wood, neither soft nor fully ripe.
-Cut with at least two eyes—three are better—slant cuts, and set in sand
-slantwise, with one eye above the surface. Shift as soon as growth
-begins fully to thumb-pots, and keep the pots plunged in another box of
-sand. Make geranium cuttings, whether scented or flowering, of healthy
-stalks full of sap and vigor. June is the best time to make cuttings of
-lemon verbena, fuchsia, heliotrope, and roses. Tips of strong shoots
-from either fuchsia or heliotrope will root then almost for the chance.
-Chrysanthemums from cuttings of the flower stalk give much finer bloom
-than those from old roots.
-
-Leaf cuttings are interesting. Tuberous begonias root thus readily.
-Roses are more difficult. Peg down the leaf on wet sand under glass,
-make tiny cuts in it, and keep very wet in sunshine. Roots will strike
-from the cuts after they have calloused.
-
-Summing up, the needs of a house plant are the same as those of a human
-being—air, light, food, water, cleanliness, and love.
-
-=Cut Flowers=: Cut flowers early in the morning, stand loosely upright
-in clean water away from light until they can be arranged. In hot
-weather sprinkle lightly if arranging must wait, and cover with a light
-cloth. Florist blossoms must be kept cool and damp; stand the holder in
-the bathtub, draw three inches of cold water, and spread something over
-them.
-
-In arranging do not mix nor crowd. Tulips with only their own stalks and
-leaves are wonderfully decorative, but a single other bloom makes them
-blotchy. No green save the featheriest asparagus fern should ever go
-with flowers which have handsome foliage. Lay fern fronds upon the cloth
-rather than disfigure with them a centerpiece of roses. Tall, stiff
-stems, as jonquils, narcissi, and lilies, absolutely require tall,
-slender holders. So do long-stemmed roses, especially the cloth-yard
-American Beauties. It is vandalism to put anything with them. Carnations
-bear massing, but the vase should have space about it. Lilies lose
-immeasurably by crowding. A single handsome tall stalk gives
-distinction, where three or four imperfect ones huddled would be
-commonplace.
-
-Half a dozen roses with fine foliage will make a handsome centerpiece
-thus: put into a low, flat bowl, rather flaring, a woven-wire cake rack
-nearly the same size. Cut stalks, if long, to six inches. Use the
-cut-off stems to mat through the woven wire. Cover well with cold water,
-then arrange the flowers so each will show for itself, thrusting the
-stems between the wires at the proper angle. A wreath of asparagus fern
-laid on the cloth outside adds much more to the effect than if the green
-were twined among the flowers. Lacking a cake rack, flatten a big potato
-after peeling it, make holes in the upper surface with a wire nail, and
-anchor the stems in them.
-
-Hanging-holders for trailers should have something inside—wet sand or
-wire net—to hold their contents stable. If a tall flower pot is set in a
-niche or corner, arrange a light to fall directly on it, as a fairy lamp
-or tall candle set upon a bracket. Beware of having too many flowers,
-and particularly too many sorts. Even blossoms can swear at each
-other—decoratively.
-
-=Keeping Cut Flowers Fresh=: Flowers sent long distances need special
-care. Stick the stalks of roses in sections of potato, else seal by
-dipping in melted paraffine, then roll each separately in wax paper so
-it forms a tube. Lay the tubes together in a stanch box, cut holes in
-either end after it is wrapped and tied. The roses should be between bud
-and half blow. Chrysanthemums can be sent the same way by either mail or
-express. So can camellias and gardenias, but they change color so
-quickly after opening they are hardly worth the trouble.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                   X
-
-                  DISINFECTANTS, INSECTS, INSECTICIDES
-
-
-=Quicklime=: Put big lumps in broad earthen platters, set on floors of
-cellars, outhouses, or barns, and slack with copperas water.
-
-=Charcoal=: Lay lumps in vegetable bins or on cellar shelves. Hang other
-lumps in bags of coarse net on cellar and pantry walls. Heat every month
-or so to maintain absorbent power.
-
-=Borax=: Sprinkle powdered borax freely over smelly places—under sinks,
-around plumbing, over pantry shelves, and on floors where cans are set.
-It is so safe, so wholesome, even spilling it is worth while.
-
-=Washing-soda=: Dissolve a pound in a pint of boiling water and flush
-sink pipes, refrigerator drains, and set tubs with it.
-
-=Copperas= (green vitriol, otherwise sulphate of iron): Dissolve a pound
-in a gallon of water; it will take several hours. Dilute one-half with
-boiling water and flush water closets, bath pipes, set bowls, and so
-forth. Sprinkle thus diluted over smelly earth, as in chicken runs,
-kennel floors, stall floors, and where garbage stands. Use liberally on
-garbage, in earth closets, or privies, also on standing water infested
-with green scum. A gallon added to a pot of whitewash gives a yellow
-tinge and makes the wash more sanitary.
-
-=Bluestone=: Bluestone, sulphate of copper, must be dissolved in the
-same proportions. It is a germicide more than disinfectant, especially
-valuable where there have been sick animals. Dilute with four times its
-bulk of boiling water or mix through hot whitewash. It is staple against
-seed infection, as smuts and molds. The most part of garden seed sprout
-and grow better for wetting with the dilute solution and drying before
-planting.
-
-=White Vitriol=: Sulphate of zinc, a powerful astringent germicide,
-needs care in handling. Dissolve it, four ounces to the half gallon of
-water, strain, and put into clean bottles. Keep dark, corked tightly.
-Use to clean and disinfect sores from frost bite or indolent ulcers.
-Dilute with five times as much tepid rain water. Use on the combs of
-poultry when raw from frost, also for scaly leg and the ail known as
-“bumble-foot.”
-
-=Bichloride of Mercury=: The king among disinfectants, also one of the
-deadliest among poisons. Dissolve in boiling rain water, four ounces to
-the gallon. Let stand; it dissolves slowly. Keep in glass, tightly
-corked, plainly labeled “poison.” Dilute one-half for use in the sick
-room. But put on full strength when fighting bed bugs.
-
-=Bordeaux Mixture=: Staple for spraying against molds, etc. One pound
-blue vitriol dissolved in five gallons rain water and added to one pound
-powdered unslaked lime mixed to a cream with rain water. Stir well, and
-strain before spraying. Dilute one-half to three-fourths; if too strong
-it scorches vegetation.
-
-=Kerosene Emulsion=: Stir hard together in an earthen vessel a quart of
-buttermilk and half a gallon kerosene. Stir with wood until thick and
-buttery. Use full strength to paint tree trunks and hard branches in
-winter, but dilute at least ten times for use on green things. Mix with
-warm water, twenty parts to one for spraying against plant lice. For
-fighting red spider stir a little sulphur into the emulsion before
-diluting. Spray late—as near night as possible.
-
-=Bisulphide of Lime=: Sure death to either animal or plant lice. Mix in
-equal quantity flowers of sulphur and powdered quicklime, cover two
-inches with boiling water, boil five hours, filling up and adding more
-water till there is three times the original quantity. Dilute the
-result, a brown smelly liquid, one hundred times for use either as wash
-or spray.
-
-=Against Garden Pests=: Mix any arsenical powder—London purple,
-Scheele’s green, or Paris green—with its own bulk of flour and twice its
-bulk of slaked lime, and dust upon plants while damp. Good for potato
-beetles, squash bugs, flea bugs, grasshoppers, cut worms, and cabbage
-worms. Use in a powder gun or tie in a thin bag, fasten it to a long
-pole and shake so as to coat plants evenly.
-
-=Larkspur=: Larkspur destroys lice and mites. Sow rather thick, cut when
-beginning to flower, dry in shade. Strip leaves and buds when full dry,
-powder, and keep in glass. Save stems and coarse stalks to make tea.
-Infuse for twelve hours, then boil for two, strain, and reduce by
-boiling another hour. Use in suds a cup to the quart, or in whitewash a
-pint to the gallon. Make an ointment by either stewing tender tips in
-lard or fresh butter in a water bath until the grease is well colored or
-by putting with it the infusion at full strength and stewing out the
-water. Stir in a little flowers of sulphur, a teaspoonful to the pint,
-for use on cattle or horses. Grease back of the ears, under the throat,
-and along the backbone. Grease poultry under the wings, around the neck,
-and on top of the head. Blow larkspur powder into the hair of dogs and
-cats after bathing them.
-
-=For Flies and Mosquitoes=: Stop the beginnings. Burn or bury garbage.
-Spray all possible fly beds well with copperas water daily. Be prodigal
-of whitewash wherever it will stick. Flush drains well with boiling soda
-water and use copperas water or carbolic suds to spray earth on which
-waste water discharges. Keep manure piles covered with fresh earth, also
-wet daily with copperas water. Set fly traps outdoors wherever the pests
-congregate. Fill a tumbler two-thirds with suds and lay a cardboard over
-with a hole in the middle. Smear syrup on the underside for bait. Empty
-twice a day, burning the drowned flies. Boil together two ounces ground
-black pepper, four ounces sugar, and a cup of sweet milk, set the syrup
-shallowly in plates—the flies will do the rest. The mixture kills them,
-but is harmless to anything else. Oil of lavender sprayed will drive out
-flies temporarily. So will rose geranium bruised to smell strongly.
-Screen every opening with wire gauze or cheesecloth, make cheesecloth
-covers, rounds with wire in the hems, to protect hot food, be diligent
-with fly paddles, and avoid slopping, also throwing out slops on the
-ground.
-
-Mosquitoes, say the wise men, are a local issue, bred in standing water.
-Wherefore leave no water standing, not even a rusty canful. Cover rain
-barrels with screen wire, pour crude kerosene upon ponds and pools.
-Begin early, before buds swell. Keep it up until frost. Examine cellars,
-especially barn cellars. Mosquitoes winter in them. Kill all such
-lingerers with thick smoke—tobacco smoke or from pyrethrum powder or by
-touching off a little gunpowder on a plate. Concussion makes the
-mosquitoes drop; sweep up and burn. Concerted action is imperative. If
-no man liveth or dieth unto himself, how much less so any man’s crop of
-mosquitoes! Screens and smoke from punk sticks, pyrethrum, and dry
-pennyroyal are the best weapons against attack. Oil of pennyroyal
-likewise helps. Smear lightly on forehead, hands, and arms before going
-to sleep. Wilting leaves of the stately castor bean, also tender
-branches, hung about will drive out mosquitoes.
-
-Fleas harbor in light litter—hay, straw, leaves, most of all shed hair.
-Flea-bearing animals have each their own species, which fight to the
-death. There are also sand fleas. Fight with fire, smoke, water, oil of
-pennyroyal, and fresh black-walnut leaves. Sprinkle kerosene on the
-litter suspected; sweep up and burn. Oil sand beds likewise, else drench
-with copperas water. Wet manure heaps with bichloride solution or
-bisulphide of mercury. Gather walnut leaves in armfuls and crowd them
-into places unsafe for oil or fire, as under piazzas, bungalow floors,
-or low sheds. Put them also about rooms where fleas abound, tied in
-thick bunches, and laid under beds or in closets. Gasolene where safe is
-a mighty help. Paint floors and baseboard with it, in default of
-bichloride solution. Painting with turpentine is also fairly effective.
-Success is impossible, however, unless the flea-fighting extends to
-animals as well.
-
-=Bed Bugs=: Bed bugs demand eternal vigilance, especially in apartments.
-Make bedrooms and closets as nearly as possible bug proof by washing,
-after cleaning thoroughly, with bichloride solution, then filling every
-crack, cranny, and crevice with soft putty. Lay a thin rope of putty
-along the baseboard on the floor and crowd down upon it quarter-round
-molding cut to fit. Nail fast, and paint to match the baseboard. This is
-an effectual seal for dividing wall on a common floor. Set collars of
-the stiffest putty around steam pipes where they go in and out. Renew
-them as often as they crack and crumble, but do not trust to them
-entirely. Examine everything monthly—bed, furnishings, chairs, boxes,
-the backs of pictures, books, and stacked papers. Paper in mass is a
-favorite lurking place. Have white slips for mattresses; remove, turn,
-examine seams, and wet corners with bichloride. Paint the mattress over
-lightly with bichloride; it neither stains nor smells. Wipe the bedstead
-and springs with a cloth wet in it, and drench crannies unwipable. Wipe
-the backs of pictures and of dressers, in fact, any sheltered and static
-space. Wipe the floor with bichloride, if bare, and wax or oil
-afterward. Sprinkle a carpet or rugs well with bichloride, then sweep
-with a broom dipped in very hot water. Empty closets, wipe over, examine
-all accumulations of paper, boxes, etc. A bug overlooked will in a
-month’s space infest a whole house. Couches of rattan, wicker, or
-upholstered are strongholds of the blood-suckers. Set in air and drench
-with benzine or gasolene, leave standing a day, and drench again,
-shaking, brushing, and beating between drenchings.
-
-Wicker clothes hampers and baskets, also baby carriages, are other
-strongholds. Scald hampers and baskets with boiling-hot soda water, then
-paint over with turpentine and a little sweet oil. Use gasolene on the
-carriages, applying with a thick brush rather than drenching. Repeat
-twice in succession, wash everything washable, and sun for a week.
-
-=Moths=: Moths in upholstered things must be got rid of the same as bed
-bugs (see preceding paragraph). Clean rugs thoroughly, spray on both
-sides with gasolene or strong black-pepper tea, sun well, then roll up
-between newspapers, tie fast, wrap spirally with stiff paper, fold ends
-neatly, slip over them paper bags fitting accurately, paste down edges,
-paste a strip of paper over the edge of the wrapping. Clean heavy coats
-with gasolene or benzine, crowd newspaper into the sleeves, crumple more
-newspaper thickly over the hanger, fasten the coat, slip over it a bag
-of pasted newspapers, pass the hanger hook up through it, crumple the
-paper tight around the shank and tie, then fold over the bottom of the
-paper several times, and fasten with stout wire clips. Moth balls may be
-slipped in coat pockets, but will hardly be needed if they are hung in a
-light place.
-
-Store and protect tailor suits much the same. After cleaning fold the
-skirt belt in six and fasten with a big safety pin to lower bend of the
-hanger shank, then slip on its newspaper bag and fasten. Put on the
-coat, then over all a bigger newspaper bag. Put inside wisps of cotton
-tied up in net, and wet with oil of cedar. One-piece cloth frocks should
-be hung the same as long coats, but have the skirts folded upward over a
-roll of newspapers about midway and pinned or basted to the waist. Store
-fur coats the same way after cleaning and sunning for several days. Put
-mothaline bags outside over those of newspaper and sachets of sandalwood
-in the sleeves. If moths have touched them before storing, lay them for
-several days on a slat tray in a trunk with a big sponge saturated in
-gasolene below. Keep the trunk outside and shut tight; gasolene vapor
-ought to kill the moth eggs. Clean small furs as muffs, tippets, cuffs,
-sun, sew up tight in old linen, sprinkle well with black-pepper tea,
-then wrap in newspaper, wipe out their boxes with a cloth dipped in
-gasolene, put in the wrapped furs, wrap boxes, and slip in paper bags,
-then fold and paste together the bag ends. If no moth nor egg was inside
-none will come out.
-
-Fine things, such as camel’s-hair shawls, moth-infested should be
-brushed and sunned, then wrapped in clean linen, over that thick wet
-towels, over that paper, and laid in a hot oven until the paper
-scorches. This is equal to superheated steam for moth and egg
-destruction, but does no harm to the finest fabric. Sew up in linen and
-store same as small furs. Steam is also sovereign for moths in carpets
-where it is unsafe to use gasolene or benzine. Cover the infected spots
-with thick wet towels, letting them lie a good bit over and iron first
-around the edges, then all over with blazing-hot irons, changing them as
-they cease to hiss. Repeat at weekly intervals for a month. After
-ironing go along the edges, wetting the carpet well with bichloride
-solution. A carpet to be stored should be sprayed with gasolene after
-cleaning, then folded over double newspapers, and sprayed at each
-doubling over with black-pepper tea. A long, narrow bag of moth balls in
-the deepest fold adds something to insect insurance. Store in light and
-off the floor. A discarded bed spring is fine to lay such things on.
-Stand rolled rugs on end if not too long, and a little apart.
-
-=A Blanket Box=: Make blankets clean and whole, fold in three,
-lengthwise, roll up over a core of moth balls, sew in old linen, and
-pack. Fill all crevices in a big packing-case with putty or plaster wet
-with egg, paper with plain manila paper, let dry, then paint the paper
-with oil of cedar. Give two coats. Put over the bottom a sachet of cedar
-twigs or shavings laid on wadding and tacked between cheesecloth. Pack
-blankets and woolens on this, tucking smaller cedar sachets into
-crevices, also moth balls tied in cheesecloth. Put in white things
-first, lay paper over them, then pack colored ones. Cover with another
-cedar sachet, tuck paper snugly over it, then shut—the top must be
-hinged on—and paste paper over the edges. As long as it is unbroken the
-contents are safe.
-
-Where storage space is lacking use a box couch, making sure with
-bichloride and gasolene that neither moth nor bed bug lurks inside. Use
-oil of lavender and pine twigs rather than cedar, omit the sealing with
-paper, but examine now and then; if you discover the enemy do not halt
-until he is forever and completely yours.
-
-=Roaches and Water Bugs=: Powdered borax mixed with sugar kills them.
-Set it about in saucers, sprinkle under pipes and on sills, also on the
-bottom of closets and drawers. Lay clean paper over it. Once a month
-remove paper, wipe wood, sprinkle again after drying, and put on fresh
-paper. Burn every dead insect. In cellars or greenhouses mix a little
-Paris green with the powder, dip into it cut potatoes, and lay them cut
-side down, in the way of roaches. Gather up each morning, drop in water
-as gathered, and replace at evening with freshly loaded potatoes. Pour
-turpentine around water pipes and those for steam heat. Paint the pipes
-with turpentine, doing it when they are cool. Paint kitchen floors and
-baseboards after scouring with bichloride of mercury; beware, though,
-using it higher. Keep borax and sugar on pantry shelves under paper.
-Paint with turpentine at housecleaning. Fill cracks, crevices, and
-knotholes with putty. Do the same with tops and rims of set tubs,
-renewing it as it breaks.
-
-=Ants=: Ants, black or red, hate the smell of camphor. Make rings of it
-around dishes of food and pour it into crevices suspected as ant roads.
-If they climb by a post or pillar put a tarred bandage around it. Find
-the nest if possible and destroy it with boiling water or gasolene or
-kerosene with a little camphor added. Beware of gasolene if the nest is
-close to any building. Boiling soda water is safe anywhere except about
-plants. There use strong carbolic soapsuds, blood-warm, with an
-after-sprinkle of camphor. Gum camphor tied in net and hung in closets
-or pantries helps to drive ants away.
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                                   XI
-
-                              CARE OF PETS
-
-
-=Dogs=: Choose your dog, unless he chooses himself by adopting you, with
-regard for environment. Big dogs require space—big rooms and grounds
-outside. Small ones are “in drawing” with apartments or modest houses.
-Breed is a matter of chance or choice. Toy terriers, toy Pomeranians,
-spaniels, and pugs fit into restricted menages. St. Bernards, collies,
-greyhounds, wolf hounds, and hunting-dogs in general are miserable in
-confinement, also miserably out of place.
-
-Teach him obedience first of all, keep him clean and comfortable, never
-forget him, feed regularly, give constant access to clean water, and
-always sufficient exercise. Otherwise don’t keep him; neglect is a
-refinement of cruelty.
-
-Vary the feeding. Dog biscuit day in and out destroys appetite and
-thrift. Shift every other day to table scraps, oatmeal porridge,
-cornmeal mush cooked with broth, or raw meat and bones. Give milk almost
-every day—not too much. Be sparing of the raw meat; a zest suffices.
-Tiny house dogs ought to have light breakfasts, with a hearty dinner
-around two o’clock, and nothing more. Dogs running out need much more
-food, otherwise they get into mischief. A hearty breakfast and dinner
-with milk and mush at sundown is not too much. Feed all that will be
-eaten clean; if food is left, diminish the quantity. Leave nothing but
-bones where a dog may come back to it. Gnawing solid bones helps
-strength and spirit. Small bones of game or fowl must be given with
-discretion; they are crunched and swallowed so greedily the sharp ends
-may do harm if the stomach is too full of them.
-
-A flea-bearing dog is intolerable. Wash in larkspur water (see section
-Insecticides) or carbolic soapsuds, and comb while in the bath with a
-fine-tooth comb. Drain off water and fleas, rinse tub, rinse dog well,
-dry with coarse soft towels, keep muzzled until fully dry, and away from
-draughts. When fully dry, part hair and blow in behind the ears and
-along the spine flowers of sulphur mixed with larkspur powder or
-pyrethrum powder.
-
-For skin troubles, mange especially, bathe well in hot sulphur soapsuds,
-rinse dry, and rub well into the affected spots unsalted butter washed
-clean of milk and made yellow with flowers of sulphur. If the trouble
-persists and the dog is valuable, consult a vet; the dog, perhaps, needs
-constitutional treatment.
-
-Kennels and doghouses must be clean and dry, baskets and bedding kept
-clean and free of vermin. Whitewash kennels and doghouses often, putting
-larkspur infusion or carbolic acid in the whitewash, else mixing in
-flowers of sulphur. Scald baskets, dry, and paint with turpentine and
-sweet oil. Lay bedding outside and drench with gasolene. Burn it if
-mange appears, else it will reinfect the animal. Do not let dogs sleep
-haphazard anywhere they can. Give them comfortable beds, indoors or out.
-
-A dog running free at exercise needs no clothes. On leash, with his
-keeper merely walking or sauntering, a warm blanket, or, better, a
-sweater, is essential in cold weather. Keep dogs outdoors as much as
-possible in hot weather, but do not let them run too much. Provide
-shade, especially for guard dogs. Teach all dogs, and especially guard
-dogs, to refuse food from strangers. This is impossible with a hungry
-dog. Full feeding guards against foraging at large, the thing which
-gives poisoners the best opportunity.
-
-Dogs perspire only through the tongue, hence the panting after exertion.
-Let them drink all they will, but have the water clean. Milk is food,
-not drink. Do not imagine it takes the place of water. Water, free and
-clean, is held the best preventive of rabies. In case rabies is
-suspected isolate safely, and observe for at least a week.
-Pseudo-rabies, induced by fear, kills many more people than the real
-thing. An ailing dog, or one tired, thirsty, or lost, will snap at
-almost anything in his way. Do not on that account condemn him untried
-to death. Rest, food, and drink, in confinement, will discover his true
-condition. If madness is proved, kill, quickly and mercifully, burn or
-bury, disinfect every space he has touched with bichloride of mercury,
-burn movable boards, litter, ropes, etc. Grass or earth upon which
-saliva has dropped had better be drenched with kerosene and set on fire.
-
-=Cats=: Cats likewise suffer rabies; in case of it use the same
-measures. Cats of fancy breeds are more decorative than plain tabbys,
-but also more delicate and much less intelligent, withal lacking in
-affection, and of no use save to look fine.
-
-White cats, especially those with blue eyes, are more savage, less
-affectionate, and much harder house-broken than black, gray, or
-tortoise-shell ones. Often the white fellows are deaf. Each and several,
-cats run wild for reasonable opportunity, yet they bear housing and
-confinement admirably. They need raw meat, but not too much; a bit of
-liver or a fish head every other day suffices. Alternately give bones,
-with the milk and crumbled bread, which is the mainstay of their diet.
-Give also at night a saucer of pure milk. Water and catnip, green or
-dry, should be always accessible. Do not overfeed; cats are dainty
-gluttons if permitted. Keep them thriving, but not fat—fat and
-indigestion are the roots of disease.
-
-Rid of fleas as directed for dogs. After drying, confine for some time,
-first giving a saucer of milk with a teaspoonful of whisky or brandy in
-it. For skin troubles grease all over with the sulphur and butter,
-confine so as to keep from getting dirty, and wash well after
-twenty-four hours in hot suds, rinsing well and drying with soft towels.
-Repeat at intervals as long as needed. Feed on bread and milk, be lavish
-of catnip, burn infected bedding, wash and fumigate baskets, or treat
-with bichloride of mercury (see section Disinfectants).
-
-=Belgian Hares and Cavies=: Both are vegetable feeders. They will live
-in small quarters, but do better in bigger ones. Keep the quarters clean
-and sanitary with whitewash and disinfectants. If very small, have
-floors of loose boards which can be taken up and scalded. Feed three
-times a day with grain, roots, and green stuff. Be liberal of the green
-stuff. With a grass run the beasts will supply most of it themselves.
-Scatter the food, and give only as much as will be eaten clean. Suckling
-mothers need extra feeds, five a day instead of three.
-
-Dust weekly with sifted ashes, corn starch in powder, and flowers of
-sulphur. Use in dry weather, putting on at night. Have hutches big
-enough to prevent crowding. Beware letting your pets overrun the space
-at command.
-
-=Birds=: Mocking-birds, cardinals, bullfinches and orioles, all of which
-it is wicked to keep in cages, need very roomy cages, perches with the
-bark on, much clean sandy earth on the floors, clean grain, green stuff,
-ripe fruit, and insects, besides the egg-and-potato mixture which is
-their mainstay. Tie heads of wheat, oats, or millet to the bars, hang
-lettuce and peppergrass there, also chickweed in season. Put ripe
-berries on clean twigs and suspend; force bits of apple and peach
-between wires close to the perches. Have a swing, a roomy bath, with the
-usual feed and water cups. Change the water daily, twice in summer. Put
-one drop of carbolic acid in the bath for insect prevention. Boil eggs
-twenty minutes, crush the yolk while hot with a freshly boiled Irish
-potato, season with the least grain of salt and a very little red
-pepper, and put into the cup. Keep the cage very clean, scald it every
-three months. Hang it outside in pleasant weather, but never so the sun
-at midday will strike full on the birds.
-
-Give flies, crickets, earth worms, grasshoppers, but not hairy
-caterpillars, spiders, nor wasps. Mockers sing almost the night through
-in spring. To silence them cover the cage with something thick, set
-where it is very dark, then uncover.
-
-=Canaries=: A long body and thick smooth plumage are marks of a good
-canary. Males only sing. Coat color varies. German canaries show many
-shades of yellow besides mottled tints. Yellow-red Norwich birds owe
-their giddy coats to red pepper in the food. Unless it is given
-liberally at moulting-time their fine feathers come back dull and pale.
-Birds are in full song at a year old. Younger, they have rarely been
-well taught. The range of life is seven to twenty years; the last is
-possible only with exceptional birds and still more exceptional care.
-
-Teach canaries to deserve the freedom of the room. It helps in many
-ways. Leave the cage door open; do not coax him out nor force him in
-except as a last resort. Rather let hunger take him back. He will learn
-quickly and enjoy flying about.
-
-A metal cage with a movable floor is the one to choose. Wood invites
-vermin and harbors it distressingly. Hang where it is neither hot nor
-cold, away from draughts, but with air plenty. Feed regularly, but do
-not overfeed. Hemp seed are so fattening they must be given sparingly.
-The regular bird seed sold in packages is excellent if fresh. A dull
-appearance is against it; canary seed when not stale is shiny. Empty and
-fill the seed cup daily, clean the floor, and put down fresh gravel, red
-and white. Keep cuttlefish bone suspended in the cage, and put in daily
-some fresh bit of green. Lettuce will answer, but chickweed and
-peppergrass are better. A pod of Cayenne pepper is good in sharp
-weather. So is a little hard-boiled egg, lightly dusted with red pepper,
-or bread crumbs squeezed out of milk and similarly dusted. A droopy bird
-showing signs of diarrhea should have black-pepper tea to drink, else a
-strip of fat pork rolled in ground pepper hung where it can be pecked.
-
-Fill the bath every morning. If a bird picks himself after bathing put a
-few drops of rose water or cologne in the bath. Bare spots from the
-picking should be rubbed very lightly with sulphur and butter, putting
-also a little under the wings and back of the neck. Ragged plumage may
-mean a hardened oil gland. It lies just at the root of the tail and
-furnishes oil for the coat. Look at it, blowing aside covering feathers.
-If swollen and inflamed, drop on warm, weak suds from a medicine
-dropper, dry very gently, and apply a little vaseline. Repeat daily
-until the gland frees itself of the cake.
-
-Trim nails discreetly, holding to the light so as to miss the tiny vein
-in them. If cut, hold the bleeding foot a minute in tepid water, dry,
-and touch the cut with vaseline.
-
-If breeding, separate the pair when brooding begins. Afterward let both
-feed the young. Provide soft food twice a day—bread crumbs soaked in
-milk, scraped apple, mashed hard-boiled egg yolk, in addition to seed
-and bird manna. As soon as it is safe move the whole family into a
-fresh, clean cage, and scald and fumigate the other. Mites, the bane of
-canaries, multiply amazingly. They would be invisible but for their
-blood color. Feeding by day, they quit their prey at night. Throw a
-sheet of Canton flannel over cages suspected, remove it quickly by
-lamplight, and plunge in boiling water. Mites will show on it after
-death. If they are plenty, shift to a clean cage at once and repeat the
-cloth treatment until all are destroyed. Infested cages should be, after
-scalding, drenched with gasolene and aired for a week. Scalding with
-bichloride is also effectual; it must be followed by a scalding in
-clear, boiling water and a fortnight of airing.
-
-=Parrots=: If the parrot is for company get a gray African—they make the
-best talkers and are best tempered. For decoration get the
-scarlet-crested white fellows, or the yellow and green, or blue and
-scarlet and yellow. Treatment of either is the same; feed fruit, nuts,
-grain, a little meat, insects, bread, especially cornbread, and cereals
-cooked stiff. Parrots learn quickly to eat and drink with their owners.
-Coffee in moderation is good for them, but they must have water besides.
-Some thrive better for drinking milk; indeed, the creatures are almost
-uncannily human in many things. Let them bathe at discretion, provide
-also a dust bath. Have a roomy cage, a tall, branchy perch, and a hoop
-swing. Never tease nor tantalize; parrots are cross enough without; also
-jealous. Do not leave free in the room with a small child. Their beaks
-are cruelly sharp. Lacking insects, give small lumps of raw mutton fat.
-Keep everything about them very clean.
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
-                                  XII
-
-                             IN EMERGENCIES
-
-
-=Chimney Blazes=: Smother blazing chimneys by throwing salt, damp if
-possible, on the fire, and setting something flat against the chimney
-breast.
-
-=Blazing Fat=: Throw on salt, sand, or ashes; water makes the flame
-fiercer. Prevent draughts if possible; keep doors and windows shut
-tight. Turn out oil or gas flames underneath, and keep everything
-inflammable away from the blaze.
-
-=Gas Leaks=: Open doors and windows, let accumulations blow out, then
-hunt for the broken pipe—not with a lamp or candle—and clap on it when
-found either a blanket of putty or flour dough wet very stiff. Tie in
-place with broad tape, then wrap with a cloth so as to withstand
-pressure. But first of all call for the repair man. With a leak
-undiscoverable, shut off from the rest of the house and leave windows
-wide open.
-
-=Asphyxiation=: Whether from gas or drowning, lay flat, the head a
-little higher; permit no crowding; resort to artificial
-respiration—lifting the arms and pressing on the chest systematically,
-holding the tongue out all the while; rub with alcohol, especially feet
-and hands; keep in air, and work gently but quickly. In cases of
-drowning, empty lungs of water first thing by laying face down over a
-bench or barrel and working the arms.
-
-=Fainting=: Lay flat, the head lower than the body, loosen clothes,
-especially about the neck, dash cold water gently in the face, hold
-ammonia under nostrils, rub wrists and temples with camphor or cologne
-water, and if the faint persists put mustard at the back of the neck and
-to the soles of the feet. Insensibility from shock or falling needs
-slightly different treatment. It may mean concussion; hence, let the
-head be highest and apply vigorous friction along the spine as well as
-to the extremities. Stimulate as soon as swallowing is possible, and
-move with caution.
-
-=Burns=: Anything which excludes air without tainting the wound or
-irritating it further helps a bad burn. Carron oil—a creamy mixture of
-lime water and sweet oil—applied with a feather, then covered with
-cotton, either batting or absorbent, gives a measure of relief and is
-also healing. Soft old linen coated with fresh egg-white laid on and
-allowed to dry soothes pain. Even a covering with dry flour, if nothing
-else is handy, is better than leaving the burn bare. But if at all
-serious, or even is shallow and wide spread, call a doctor instantly,
-meantime keeping up heart action with stimulants in small doses often
-repeated.
-
-=Breaks and Dislocations=: Lay a broken bone straight in a natural
-position upon a stout cardboard splint shaped to the limb and covered
-with cotton batting. Bandage limb and splint firmly together, working
-toward the trunk and keeping the bandage smooth but not too tight. Wet
-with arnica. This keeps down pain and inflammation, making the surgeon’s
-work when he arrives easier for himself and his patient. Reduce
-dislocations as quickly as possible by stretching the hurt joint
-steadily and letting another person manipulate the hurt. Often the bone
-head will snap back in place at a touch; it remains then only to keep it
-in place. An hour’s delay would mean swelling to render the replacing
-much harder. Wrist and elbow joints in particular are kittle cattle if
-left to swell. First aid to them means many times preserving use and
-saving from lifelong disfigurement. But this first aid by no means
-suffices to make surgical care unnecessary.
-
-=Sprains and Strains=: Bandage tight, wet the bandages with cold water,
-and hold in an easy position. A sprained or strained ankle may be almost
-cured by plunging it into running water and keeping it there some time.
-Lift out occasionally, then replunge. Strains require rest and bandages.
-Wet the bandages with arnica. If there is muscle shrinkage later, rub
-morning and night with chloroform liniment after bathing with hot water
-and wiping dry.
-
-=Chloroform Poisoning=: Keep in motion in open air, dose with aromatic
-spirits of ammonia well diluted, and hold it undiluted to nostrils.
-Apply electricity to spine; this if conscious. If fallen into a stupor
-put ice to spine and top of head, hot water to feet, give hard friction
-with alcohol, or camphor on legs and arms. Use artificial respiration
-and stimulate gently. Friction or a mustard plaster over the heart is
-helpful. Let nothing bind or constrict anywhere, and do not cease your
-efforts at the first signs of lessening stupor.
-
-=Narcotic Poisoning=: For laudanum, morphine, or opium the treatment is
-the same. First a strong emetic—mustard and water as thick as pea soup
-is among the best. Follow it with black coffee as strong as possible.
-Give all the patient can be made to swallow at short intervals, keep him
-walking briskly, stripped to the waist, dash ice water on the spine, and
-tie ice to the back of the neck. Flagellate lightly on shoulders; the
-tingles help to rouse. Hold aromatic ammonia to his nose every half
-minute. If the coffee nauseates, give clear hot water after to make
-vomiting easy, then after ten minutes more coffee not quite so strong.
-Permit no stop for several hours; if excretories act properly the danger
-will then have been past. Electricity is useful, but not indispensable.
-In desperate cases use every means at hand.
-
-=Acid Poisoning=: Emollients are the antidotes for acids; emetics wrench
-and tear seared stomach tissues. No matter what the acid—sulphuric,
-carbolic, nitric, or oxalic—give something soft and smooth—raw eggs,
-cream, starch wet as thick as cream, melted lard or butter, olive oil,
-or even flour and water, followed after a few minutes with magnesia
-stirred thick in tepid water. Let the patient rest easily, hold ammonia
-to the nostrils, and put hot-water bags to the feet. Aim to keep up
-vitality under the shock to vital tissues. In such cases a minute means
-often the difference between life and death.
-
-=Iodine Poison=: Use emollients—the very best is thick cooked starch; it
-has a specific power to neutralize the drug. Olive oil is next best; it
-protects the coating of the stomach. But use anything above named rather
-than nothing. To let a case of poison go by default is against reason
-and humanity.
-
-=Arsenic=: Arsenic in all its forms is best fought with raw eggs,
-especially the whites, and sweet milk or cream. Give a strong emetic
-afterward, then, when it has acted, more eggs or milk. This should
-suffice unless the poison has been freely absorbed.
-
-=Ptomaine Poisoning=: Give an active emetic, followed by a cathartic;
-keep the patient warm, stimulate with brandy—a teaspoonful every hour;
-put mustard to wrists, ankles, back of neck, and pit of stomach—this
-particularly if there is severe pain, cramps, or continued retching.
-Pains in the head indicate the need of an ice cap.
-
-=Mercury Poisoning=: Bichloride needs as antidote raw eggs and cream, or
-oil, with the same external treatment as for ptomaines. Strong emetics
-are inadvisable, but if the stomach frees itself naturally of the
-emollients much poison will come with them. Replace them in smaller
-quantities, but give nothing else until the doctor comes.
-
-=Bites and Stings=: Stings from wasps, bees, and ants need treatment
-with fruit acids—bathe in vinegar or apply a slice of raw apple or peach
-or a crushed grape. Instant sucking removes part of the poison and
-relieves the pain to a degree. Always suck bites, as of spiders, unless
-there are abrasions of tongue and lips. After sucking bathe freely with
-fresh peroxide of hydrogen, boracic acid, or sugar-of-lead water. A leaf
-of green plantain, well bruised, bound on a bite or sting when nothing
-else is at hand keeps down inflammation and mitigates pain. In case of
-stings make sure the sting proper has not been left in the wound, since
-its presence might induce blood poisoning.
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
-                                 INDEX
-
-
- ACID POISONING, 197.
-
- Adaptation of old garments, 108.
-
- Antidotes, 196-198.
-
- Antique furniture, care of, 66;
-   restoring, 62-65.
-
- Ants, how to get rid of, 177.
-
- Aprons, laundry, 11.
-
- Arsenic, antidote for, 198.
-
- Asphalt spots, 122.
-
- Asphyxiation, 193.
-
-
- BANDAGES, 21-22.
-
- Basting clothes, 101.
-
- Bed bugs, to prevent, 170.
-
- Bed clothes, mending, 85.
-
- Beef, how to choose, 134.
-
- Bichloride of mercury, 165.
-
- Birds, care of, 185.
-
- Bisulphide of lime, 166.
-
- Bites and stings, 199.
-
- Blanket box, 175.
-
- Blazing fat, how to put out, 192.
-
- Bleaching, 2-3.
-
- Blood, to stanch, 22-23.
-
- Bluestone, 164.
-
- Books, mending, 80.
-
- Borax, 163.
-
- Bordeaux mixture, 165.
-
- Buckwheat flour, 131.
-
- Burlaps, 34.
-
- Burns, 194.
-
- Butter, how to choose, 133.
-
- Brass, care of, 67, 126.
-
- Breaks and dislocations, 194.
-
- Bric-à-brac, mending, 79.
-
- Brick dust, 46.
-
- Bronze, care of, 126.
-
- Brooms, 42.
-
- Broom bags, 42.
-
- Brushes, 42, 46.
-
-
- CAKE, how to keep, 143.
-
- Calcimine, 39, 50.
-
- Canaries, care of, 186.
-
- Canning, 139.
-
- Carpets, cleaning, 29-30;
-   mending, 90.
-
- Cats, care of, 183.
-
- Cavies, care of, 184.
-
- Ceilings, 30, 38-39.
-
- Cement, 53-54.
-
- Charcoal, 163.
-
- Cheese, how to choose and keep, 134.
-
- Chimney blazes, how to put out, 192.
-
- China, mending, 75;
-   washing, 56.
-
- Chloride-of-lime water, 55.
-
- Chloroform poisoning, 196.
-
- Cleaning floors and rugs, 28-30.
-
- Cloth, washing, 105.
-
- Clothes drainer, 45.
-
- Coarse mending, 84.
-
- Coffee, how to choose and keep, 132.
-
- Collars, how to do up, 5-7.
-
- Contagion, 19-20.
-
- Copper, care of, 126.
-
- Copperas, 163.
-
- Copperas water, 55.
-
- Cornmeal, 130.
-
- Cottons, testing, 97.
-
- Cracks, filling, 27.
-
- Cretonne, 34.
-
- Cuffs, how to do up, 5-7.
-
- Curtains, how to do up, 8-9.
-
- Cutting out clothes, 99.
-
- Cuttings, to start plant, 158.
-
-
- DARNING, 81, 88.
-
- Disinfection, 20.
-
- Disinfectants, 55, 163-178.
-
- Dogs, care of, 179.
-
- Dust cloths, 43.
-
- Dust swabs, 43.
-
- Dyeing, 103.
-
-
- EARTH WORMS, 157.
-
- Eggs, how to test, 144.
-
- Emergencies, what to do in, 192-199.
-
- Enameled iron, 71.
-
-
- FAINTING, 193.
-
- Ferns, 151.
-
- Fertilizers, 153.
-
- Fillers for new wood, 47.
-
- Fleas, how to prevent, 170.
-
- Flies, how to prevent, 168.
-
- Floors, 24-30.
-
- Floor pad, 41.
-
- Flour, how to test, 129.
-
- Flowers, how to keep and arrange cut flowers, 159.
-
- Foot pad, 41.
-
- French polish, 49.
-
- Frocks, how to wash, 4.
-
- Fruit, dried, 142.
-
- Fruit stains, 119.
-
- Fruit storage, 139.
-
- Furniture, mending, 74;
-   polish, 49.
-
- Furs, mending, 88;
-   cleaning, 93.
-
-
- GARDEN PESTS, 166.
-
- Gas leak, 192.
-
- Gasolene-cleaning, 104.
-
- Gelatine spots, 119.
-
- Gilt, to clean, 128;
-   frames, 69;
-   furniture, 68.
-
- Glass, annealing, 61;
-   mending, 79;
-   preserving in, 138;
-   washing, 58-61.
-
- Glazing, 37.
-
- Gloves, care of, 92.
-
- Glue, 50.
-
- Grass stains, what to do for, 123.
-
- Grease spots, what to do for, 113.
-
- Grits, how to test, 131.
-
- Gum arabic, 52.
-
-
- HARES, how to keep, 184.
-
- Hominy, how to test, 131.
-
-
- ICE, to keep in sickroom, 18.
-
- Ice-cream spots, 119.
-
- Ink stains, 121.
-
- Insects, 154, 163-178.
-
- Insecticides, 154, 163-178.
-
- Iodine poison, 197.
-
- Iron, rust, 123;
-   care of, 125.
-
- Irons, 13.
-
- Ironstone, 58.
-
- Ironing-boards, 43.
-
- Ironing-tables, 11.
-
-
- JAVELLE WATER, 54.
-
-
- KEROSENE EMULSION, 165.
-
- Knee pad, 41.
-
- Knives and forks, how to clean, 61.
-
-
- LACE AND EMBROIDERY, how to wash, 10;
-   how to mend, 87;
-   how to freshen, 105.
-
- Lamps and candlesticks, mending, 80.
-
- Lard, how to test, 133.
-
- Larkspur, 167.
-
- Laundry cabinet, 45.
-
- Lead swab, 45.
-
- Lime water, 54.
-
- Linen, testing, 97.
-
-
- MAHOGANY STAIN, 48.
-
- Majolica, how to wash, 58.
-
- Materials, appliquéd, 102.
-
- Matted floors, 29.
-
- Matting, mending, 90.
-
- Meat, how to keep fresh. 138.
-
- Melons, keeping, 143.
-
- Mending, 74-91.
-
- Mercury poisoning, 198.
-
- Mildew, 123.
-
- Millinery, 109.
-
- Mission furniture, care of, 68.
-
- Mordants, 3-4.
-
- Mosquitoes, 168.
-
- Moths, 172.
-
- Mucilage, 52.
-
- Mustard plasters, 21.
-
- Mutton and lamb, 135.
-
-
- NARCOTIC POISONING, 196.
-
- Nursing, clothes for, 23.
-
-
- OAK FURNITURE, care of, 68.
-
- Oak stains, 48.
-
- Oatmeal, 131.
-
- Oil stains, 47.
-
- Old garments, ways to use, 108.
-
- Ornaments for millinery, 112.
-
- Oxalic acid, 55.
-
-
- PADS, 41.
-
- Paint, to remove, 26, 118.
-
- Palms, how to care for, 151.
-
- Pantries, outdoor, 141.
-
- Paper dough, 53.
-
- Papering, 31-32, 38.
-
- Parrots, care of, 190.
-
- Paste for paper-hanging, 52.
-
- Perspiration marks, 124.
-
- Pets, care of, 179-191.
-
- Pewter, how to clean, 127.
-
- Piano polish, 49.
-
- Pine needles, 46.
-
- Plants, care of, 148;
-   for window boxes, 150.
-
- Plaster, 53.
-
- Poisons, 196-198.
-
- Polish, 49.
-
- Porch furniture, 71.
-
- Pork, how to choose, 136.
-
- Pots, 145.
-
- Potting, 146.
-
- Poultices, 21.
-
- Poultry, 137;
-   how to keep, 138.
-
- Precautions, 72.
-
- Pressing, 101.
-
- Ptomaine poisoning, 198.
-
- Putty, 54.
-
-
- QUICKLIME, 163.
-
-
- ROACHES, how to get rid of, 158, 176.
-
- Road stains, 115.
-
- Roses, 151.
-
- Rugs, cleaning, 30;
-   mending, 90.
-
- Rust, 123.
-
-
- SALT FISH, how to keep, 138.
-
- Salt meats, how to choose, 136.
-
- Sand, 53.
-
- Saving pieces of material, 107.
-
- Sawdust, 46.
-
- Scrubbing, 24.
-
- Shellac, 25.
-
- Shirts, how to do up, 5-6.
-
- Sickbed, 15.
-
- Sickroom, care of, 13-23.
-
- Silk, testing, 95;
-   washing, 105.
-
- Silk wall covering, 34.
-
- Silver tarnish, 127.
-
- Size, glue and vegetable, 50.
-
- Smoke stains, 124.
-
- Soap, 1-2.
-
- Soil for house plants, 145.
-
- Spots, how to get rid of, 113-119.
-
- Sprains and strains, 195.
-
- Sprinklers, 44.
-
- Stains, oil, 47;
-   mahogany, 48;
-   walnut, 48;
-   oak, 48;
-   road, 115;
-   fruit, 119;
-   wine, 120;
-   ink, 121;
-   grass, 123;
-   smoke, 124.
-
- Staining floors, 24-25.
-
- Starches, 7-8.
-
-
- TABLE LINEN, how to wash, 4-5.
-
- Tar spots, 122.
-
- Tea, how to choose, 132.
-
- Tile floors, how to clean, 29.
-
- Tool box, 44.
-
- Trimmings, care of, 106.
-
-
- UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE, care of, 69.
-
-
- VARNISH, to remove, 26;
-   spots, 118.
-
- Vegetable storage, 139.
-
- Velvet, freshening, 107.
-
- Vitriol, white, 164.
-
-
- WALLS, 30-36.
-
- Wall mop, 46.
-
- Wall paper, 31-33.
-
- Walnut stain, 48.
-
- Washing, 1-12.
-
- Washing, china and glass, 56-61;
-   knives and forks, 61.
-
- Washing fluids, 2.
-
- Washing-soda, 163.
-
- Water, to soften, 1.
-
- Water bugs, 176.
-
- Water wagon, 42.
-
- Wax, dancing, 49.
-
- Wax board, 45.
-
- Wax finish, 48.
-
- Wax spots, 124.
-
- Waxing floors, 25.
-
- Whitewash, 39, 51.
-
- Whitewashed walls, 36.
-
- Wicker furniture, care of, 70.
-
- Windows, 30, 37.
-
- Window boxes, 146, 149.
-
- Wine stains, 120.
-
- Woolens, how to wash, 9.
-
- Woolens, testing, 96.
-
-
-                                THE END
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-
-
- ● Transcriber’s Notes:
-    ○ Some chapter headings had the word CHAPTER before the roman
-      numeral, some didn’t.
-    ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
-    ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
-    ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
-      when a predominant form was found in this book.
-    ○ Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_);
-      text that was bold by “equal” signs (=bold=).
-
-
-
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-<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Harper's Household Handbook, by Anonymous</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
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-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<table style='min-width:0; padding:0; margin-left:0; border-collapse:collapse'>
-  <tr><td>Title:</td><td>Harper's Household Handbook</td></tr>
-  <tr><td></td><td>A guide to easy ways of doing woman's work</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Anonymous</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 20, 2021 [eBook #65120]</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</div>
-
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARPER'S HOUSEHOLD HANDBOOK ***</div>
-
-<div  class='figcenter id001'>
-<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
-</div>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c000' />
-</div>
-<p class='c001'>&nbsp;</p>
-<div class='box1'>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-  <div class='nf-center'>
-    <div><span class='c002'>Useful Household Books</span></div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c003'>THE COOK BOOK OF LEFT-OVERS
-By Helen Carroll Clarke, former instructor in cookery
-in Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, and Phoebe Deyo Rulon,
-former instructor in invalid cookery and dietetics in
-Bellevue Hospital, New York City. Illustrated with
-Photographs. 16mo, Special Waterproof Cloth,
-Uniform with “The Expert Waitress,” $1.00 net.</p>
-
-<p class='c003'>SIMPLE ITALIAN COOKERY
-By Antonia Isola. A collection of recipes showing
-how to cook macaroni, rice, soups, meats, vegetables,
-sweets, etc. 16mo, Cloth, 50 cents net.</p>
-
-<p class='c003'>HYGIENE FOR MOTHER AND CHILD
-By Francis H. MacCarthy, M.D., Attending
-Physician to the Out-Patient Department for Children,
-Massachusetts Homoeopathic Hospital. A
-manual for mothers and nurses. Post 8vo, Cloth,
-$1.25 net.</p>
-
-<p class='c003'>THE BABY: <span class='sc'>His Care and Training</span>
-By Marianna Wheeler. (New and Revised Edition.)
-Everything mother should know regarding the food,
-clothing, and bringing-up of the baby. Illustrated.
-16mo, Cloth, $1.00 net.</p>
-
-<p class='c003'>MANNERS AND SOCIAL USAGES
-It covers the entire field of what to do and what not
-to do in social affairs. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth,
-$1.25.</p>
-<hr class='c004' />
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-  <div class='nf-center'>
-    <div>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, NEW YORK</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div>
-  <h1 class='c006'><em class='gesperrt'>HARPER’S<br />HOUSEHOLD<br />HANDBOOK</em></h1>
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c005'>
-    <div>A GUIDE TO EASY WAYS</div>
-    <div>OF DOING WOMAN’S WORK</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<div  class='figcenter id002'>
-<img src='images/publogo.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c007'>
-    <div>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS PUBLISHERS</div>
-    <div>NEW YORK AND LONDON</div>
-    <div>MCMXIII</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='sans'>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c007'>
-    <div><span class='small'>COPYRIGHT, 1913. BY HARPER &amp; BROTHERS</span></div>
-    <div><span class='small'>──────</span></div>
-    <div><span class='small'>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</span></div>
-    <div><span class='small'>PUBLISHED MARCH, 1913</span></div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c007'>
-    <div>B-N</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_I'>I</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>CONTENTS</h2>
-</div>
-<table class='table0' summary=''>
-<colgroup>
-<col width='12%' />
-<col width='73%' />
-<col width='14%' />
-</colgroup>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'><span class='small'>CHAP.</span></td>
-    <td class='c010'>&nbsp;</td>
-    <td class='c011'><span class='small'>PAGE</span></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>I.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Wash-Day Wisdom, Nursing, and Sickroom</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>II.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Inside a Room</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>III.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Equipment and Renovators</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_41'>41</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>IV.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>China, Glass, and Furniture</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_56'>56</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>V.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Making Whole</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_74'>74</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>VI.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Making and Making Over</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_95'>95</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>VII.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Remedying Spots, Stains, and Tarnish</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_113'>113</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>VIII.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Food: Choosing and Keeping</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_129'>129</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>IX.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>House Plants, Window Boxes, Cut Flowers</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_145'>145</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>X.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Disinfectants, Insects, Insecticides</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_163'>163</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>XI.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Care of Pets</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_179'>179</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>XII.</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>In Emergencies</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_192'>192</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class='c009'>&nbsp;</td>
-    <td class='c010'><span class='sc'>Index</span></td>
-    <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_201'>201</a></td>
-  </tr>
-</table>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c007'>
-    <div><span class='c012'>HARPER’S</span></div>
-    <div><span class='c012'>HOUSEHOLD HANDBOOK</span></div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c007' />
-</div>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c005'>
-    <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_1'>1</span><span class='c002'>HARPER’S</span></div>
-    <div><span class='c002'>HOUSEHOLD HANDBOOK</span></div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <h2 class='c008'>I<br /> <br />WASH-DAY WISDOM, NURSING, AND SICKROOM</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Water</b>: Soften hard water with either
-washing-soda or lye, taking care not to use
-too much. Turbid or milky water can be
-cleared to a degree with alum. Dissolve a
-tablespoonful in a pint of boiling water, and
-add a cupful to a tub. Ill-smelling water
-should be dashed with clear lime water—using
-likewise a cupful to the tub. A teaspoonful
-of carbolic acid to the tubful is also advisable
-with wash water under suspicion.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Soap</b>: Save money and strength by getting
-soap in boxfuls, piling it cobhouse fashion on
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_2'>2</span>a dry shelf in the air. Borax soaps chap the
-hands least. Naphtha soaps do the best
-work with cold water. Cheap yellow soaps,
-having much resin in them, answer very well
-if the clothes are well rinsed. Any sort of soap
-is best made into a jelly. Shave a bar, cover
-with boiling water, and simmer until soft. If
-there are very dirty things to wash, add a teaspoonful
-of borax in powder, and as much
-washing-soda to the cake of soap. This is for
-rubbing on dirty spots. Other things had
-better be washed in suds, made by putting a
-handful of jelly in a tub of water.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Washing Fluids</b>: Use for boys’ clothes,
-working-men’s shirts, and overalls turpentine,
-kerosene, and lime water, equal quantities,
-shaken well together. Wet thoroughly, let
-stand an hour, then wash in warm suds. Turpentine
-and spirits of ammonia, half and half,
-shaken hard together, will make easier the
-cleansing of colored woolens.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bleaching</b>: Clothes that are yellow from
-lying should be wet in boiling water dashed with
-oxalic acid (see section Renovators), putting
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span>two tablespoonfuls to the gallon. Wring out,
-dry in sunshine, and wash as usual. To bleach
-faded things white, as prints, lawns or linens,
-wash very clean, using extra-strong suds, then
-boil in a solution of cream of tartar, a heaping
-tablespoonful to the gallon. Boil half an
-hour; lift up; if not white, boil as long again.
-Keep the boiler filled and the garments well
-under water. Rinse in two waters after boiling,
-and dry in sunlight before ironing.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Temperature</b>: Keep the water temperature
-reasonably even throughout a wash—violent
-alternations “full” every sort of fabric
-more or less. Very fine flannels washed in
-cold water throughout with naphtha suds—soap
-must never touch them—and dried quickly,
-hardly shrink at all. Flannels generally
-are best washed in blood-warm suds, with
-rinse water the least bit hotter. Yet the beginning
-of wash-day wisdom is to wet everything
-thoroughly with cold water before washing.
-Also put clothes to boil in cold water.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mordants</b>: Set colors before washing new
-garments. Most of the aniline colors require
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>acid—either alum water or vinegar. Put four
-ounces of alum to a large tub of water, or add
-to it a pint of strong vinegar. Soak things
-for ten minutes, then wash. Set madder
-colors with sugar of lead, putting an ounce to
-a gallon of hot water. Soak twenty minutes.
-Soak blacks, black and whites, and grays in
-strong salt water, but only a few minutes.
-Buff, tan, and gray linens keep fresh longer if
-well wet before washing with strong black-pepper
-tea.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Wash Frocks</b>: Put no soap on wash frocks—suds
-suffice after spots have been removed
-(see section Spots and Stains). With delicate
-colors use bran water instead of suds. Tie
-wheat bran loosely in thin cloth, and rub the
-clothes with it. Use lukewarm water, and
-work quickly. Rinse instantly and hang to
-dry in shade, but opened out so the drying
-will be quick. Hang carefully—pulling while
-wet ruins lines, besides weakening the fabric—especially
-if it is starched.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Table Linen</b>: Wash in suds, first removing
-stains and grease (see section Spots and Stains).
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>Boil only occasionally. Wash first. Never
-starch. Hang out very straight, warp threads
-across the line. Take down when barely damp,
-fold, keeping threads true, roll smoothly, iron
-dry, first on the wrong side, then on the right.
-Use irons below scorching heat. In ironing napkins
-do not pinch the folds with the iron—also
-iron them first the warp way. Instead
-of folding table cloths roll them after ironing
-upon heavy cardboard mailing-tubes that have
-been covered with white stuff and furnished
-with wash ribbons at the ends for tying. Tie
-napkins by sixes with ribbons matching those
-of the table cloths.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Doing Up Shirts, Cuffs, and Collars</b>:
-Soak in blood-warm water until starched parts
-are soft, wash clean, shake out, pull all double
-surfaces straight, pat bosom, collars, and cuffs
-so the various plies will lie together, hang to
-dry, straight. When bone-dry fold the bosom
-lengthwise down the middle, dip in hot starch
-reinforced with gum water, rub the starch
-well into the cloth, wring, hang straight, slip
-a hand underneath the bosom and wipe over
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>with a damp, clean cloth, then pat well together,
-pin-pricking any blisters. Starch collars
-and cuffs the same. Let dry, then spread
-sheets flat, sprinkle lightly, fold tails upward,
-sprinkle again, then, beginning at the neck
-band, roll up tight and smooth and let stand
-an hour.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Fold lengthwise down the middle of the back,
-iron body, back, and front; iron sleeves from
-the sloped seam back; press wrist bands first
-upon wrong side, then on right. Do the same
-with the yoke and neck band—fasten it, put
-in bosom board, spread bosom smooth upon
-it, keeping threads exactly square. Wet
-lightly with starch water; wipe over with
-a damp cloth. Have an iron just below
-scorching heat, begin work in the middle, at
-the bottom, hold the bosom taut with the left
-hand and iron toward the neck. Go all over;
-if any smears come wipe off with tepid
-water. Do the same for wrinkles or warped
-spots. Hold hard along the edges—the stitching
-draws. Polish with a special polishing-iron,
-a little cooler than the others.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>Iron collars and cuffs upon the wrong side
-until half dry. Press hard over the right side
-and polish. Curl collars around the iron as it
-moves. Finish the band before ironing the
-outside. With cuffs the main thing is to prevent
-blisters and wry corners—do that by
-ironing the edges first and holding them taut.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Clear Starching:</b> For fine lawns and laces.
-Dip in gum water (see section Renovators) a
-cupful to a quart of boiling water, squeeze without
-wringing, and hang smoothly to dry. Take
-down when barely damp, roll tight and smoothly,
-loosen a smallish space, and pat between
-the hands until dry. Sprinkle lightly—with
-an atomizer if possible—and iron on the wrong
-side with moderate heat. Laces need not be
-ironed—in fact, should not be.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Starches:</b> A heaped tablespoonful of raw
-starch to a gallon of water makes rather stiff
-starch—if wanted very stiff use a teaspoonful
-additional. Bring the water to a bubbling
-boil in rather a wide kettle, wet the starch
-smooth, and thicker than cream, in cold water;
-take the boiling water from fire and stir the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>wetted starch into it. Stir hard—it will form
-no lumps, hence need no straining. A little
-lard put in while hot and stirred well makes
-things iron smoother. For starching tinted
-things—as écru linens or brown or buff lawns—color
-the water with clear coffee or hay tea
-before putting in the starch. Use the black
-starch sold in the shops for mourning prints,
-or any black-grounded ones. Never dip a
-blueing-rag in starch of any sort. Make blue-water
-as deep as possible, strain, and add to
-the hot starch. Even with liquid blue it is
-well to strain—specks of blueing, once dry,
-are hard to get out.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Curtains:</b> Dip cream net or madras in hay
-tea or weak coffee water, after rinsing—this
-keeps the color. Make the tea by boiling a
-handful of bright hay in two gallons of water
-for twenty minutes. Strain, and add a pinch
-of alum in powder. Most curtains should not
-be starched. Many are better not ironed.
-Real lace curtains should be dried on sheets
-spread on the floor, every point pinned smooth.
-Or they can be clapped dry as though clear-starched.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>So can net ones. Frame drying is
-quickest and easiest, therefore to be chosen
-for all but the finest sorts. Very stretchy net
-should be dried on sheets, lying lightly crumpled.
-A very little gum in the rinse water
-gives it more body. This applies also to madras.
-Iron madras on the wrong side, taking
-pains not to warp or stretch it. Tucks in curtains,
-or anywhere, need to be held taut before
-the iron. Sewing of any kind puckers for
-wetting. Put the least bit of starch in muslin
-ruffles to be fluted. Hold insertions the same
-as tucks. Iron cretonne on the wrong side,
-when it is barely damp. Chintz is exceptional
-in requiring a thin starch and in looking best
-when ironed on its face.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Knitted Woolens:</b> Knitted things like
-scarfs, sacks, sweaters, capes must be washed
-quickly in white soapsuds, lukewarm, else in
-cold naphtha suds, rinsed, blued if white, and
-dried in a crumpled heap in the sun. Hanging
-ruins them. Very fluffy things had better be
-dry-cleaned or washed in gasolene. Do this
-also with knitted silk hoods and neck scarfs.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span><b>Lace and Embroidery:</b> If very much soiled
-put in a glass or earthen vessel, cover with
-white soapsuds, and set all day in full sunshine.
-Rinse in cold water, press lace smooth between
-the hands, and wind it while damp about a
-glass jar covered with old linen. Let dry, but
-do not iron. Iron embroidery on the wrong
-side, upon its special padded board (see section
-Equipment). Made-up lace, as fichus, collars,
-and so on, must be spread smoothly upon a
-hard cushion, pinned, and dried in air. Things
-lightly soiled can be dry-cleaned by lying buried
-a week in corn starch mixed equally with calcined
-magnesia. Shake out, brush gently,
-and press under light weight. Moderate soiling
-is best remedied with gasolene, changing
-it as it grows dirty. Hang several days in
-air, under a thin cover—this takes away scent
-and prevents collecting dust. Silk embroidery
-on all grounds demands gasolene-cleaning.
-Spots must be taken out (see section Spots and
-Stains) before cleaning. Press very lightly on
-the wrong side. Treat wool embroidery the
-same way. Embroidered cushion covers must
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>be taken off, well brushed and shaken, also
-turned inside out before cleaning. But clean
-them right side out.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Laundry Aprons:</b> Make laundry aprons of
-strong stuff, but sleazy—crash, denim, or colored
-linen. Cut kimona shape, with roomy
-sleeves, and to slip on over the head. Set a
-deep pocket on each side, within handy reach.
-Set a smaller pocket across the front just below
-the waist. Carry clothes pins in the big
-pockets, safety pins, a handkerchief, and wiping-rags
-in the other. Make wide enough for
-free motion, but not enough to sag under foot
-when the wearer stoops. Let come almost
-to the instep.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ironing-tables:</b> Make board or table suit
-your height, so you need neither stoop at the
-work nor hunch your shoulders. Set a table
-too low upon bricks or blocks—if it is too high,
-have something stable to stand on. Make
-tight-fitting covers for the table of unbleached
-muslin, sewed double at one end, to be slipped
-over the table edge, and with the other end
-long enough to lap over and safety-pin firmly
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>in place. Have a double blanket under the
-cover, laid very smooth.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>In using a board, set it high or low, as your
-height requires.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>As to Soaking:</b> Long soaking of clothes is
-undesirable—it loosens dirt but passes it
-throughout the fabric. An hour is sufficient.
-Cover things that must stand overnight with
-cold water rather than hot. Nursery wash in
-need of soaking must be kept to itself. So
-should things from a sickroom that are badly
-fouled.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>As to Boiling:</b> Boiling is not absolutely
-essential to clean clothes, still a means of
-grace toward them. Have separate boiling-bags
-for table linen, for handkerchiefs, for fine
-things like caps and collars. In boilers the
-best is the costliest—namely, copper. Next
-ranks the cheapest—a deep iron pot. Copper-bottomed
-tin answers with good usage. Iron
-pots will crack if allowed to get very hot before
-water is put in. Any boiler should have
-at least an inch of water in it before going
-over the fire. Likewise it must be kept clean,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>dry, and wash-worthy by constant vigilance
-for holes and cracks.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Irons:</b> Test by pressing your cheek against
-the face—if rough, reject. Five to six pounds
-is a good weight. Half a dozen will be none
-too many. Keep clean and dry. Beware of
-setting them face down upon live coals or red-hot
-iron—heat pits them microscopically, but
-enough to make them stick. Polishing-irons
-are somewhat lighter and rather different in
-shape. Have an asbestos pad or wire trivet
-to set irons on. Have several holders, if you
-lack a patent handle, and shift as they grow
-hot.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Sickroom:</b> Disfurnish of every unessential.
-Leave nothing that can be knocked off
-or over, or that clatters or rattles. Remove
-rugs from a bare floor, but keep a small one
-handy for the patient’s feet. Cover a carpet
-with a smooth sheet of something washable.
-In case of contagion take away draperies and
-pictures. Have the bedstead light and firm-standing,
-not too low, single or of three-quarter
-size. Set it so there is free passage
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>all round it, but not so light glares into sick
-eyes. Place the head at least six inches from
-the wall, and set beside it a small solid table.
-A couch or single bed, a spacious dresser, a
-bigger table, and at most three chairs are complete
-equipment. Give up the dresser to the
-patient’s clothes, bed clothes, towels, table
-covers, and so forth. Have three changes of
-clothes, a dressing-gown, a light shawl, slippers,
-many clean handkerchiefs. A dressing-room
-attached is a godsend—next to it a
-bathroom easily reached. Lacking either, a
-washstand fully furnished is necessary, also an
-alcohol or oil stove for hot water.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Toilet ware of white enamel is lighter and
-safer than china. Have in addition a foot
-tub and a deep covered bucket. Soaps, powder,
-scents at discretion—insist, though, upon
-clean wash clothes, a good sponge, also bottles
-of grain alcohol, aromatic ammonia, lavender
-water, and camphor. Insist also upon a demi-john
-of disinfectant solution—chloride-of-lime
-for ordinary illness, bichloride of mercury in
-cases of contagion (see section Disinfectants).</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span><b>A Sickbed:</b> Should have a good spring and
-a light, elastic mattress. Lay upon the mattress
-a pad of cotton tacked between cheesecloth,
-and change it daily. The mattress
-should have a white cover. Over the pad
-stretch smooth a sheet big enough to tuck in
-all round and be fastened underneath with
-safety pins. Pin the upper sheet only across
-the bottom, and lay a fold three inches wide
-in it there, to save cramping the toes. Do the
-same with the blankets. They should be
-light, not heavy. Down or puffy cotton comforts
-should supply extra warmth at need.
-Lay blankets so the upper edge will come a
-foot below the headboard. The sheet must
-be turned over them half a foot at least and
-be met by an outer spread light and smooth.
-Have a bolster rather hard, and three pillows
-of varying softness. Change slips daily. Change
-sheets likewise, save in desperate cases where
-the patient cannot bear moving. Space permitting,
-such cases should have two beds, fitted
-alike. Shifting can be done by setting them together
-and easing the sufferer on the fresh couch.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span><b>Heat and Ventilation:</b> Open fires help
-mightily toward keeping a sickroom fresh.
-Burn wood that does not snap nor give out
-any pungent smell. Coal should be free-burning.
-Put it in small paper bags—thus
-it can be laid in the grate without noise or
-dust. Dampen ashes before removing, and
-keep hearth and fixtures clean by a daily
-washing. Keep the heat steady—the temperature
-that is ordered. Where there is distress
-of breathing, keep a clean kettle simmering
-on the fire, the spout turned outward—vapor
-softens air. Furnace heat coming through a
-floor register should be softened by setting
-on the register a small pan of water. With a
-wall register, fasten in front of it a big sponge,
-and wet it every hour or so. Radiators should
-have water on top, in something wide and
-shallow.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>If windows must be opened at top, set an
-extra shade at the bottom with a hook to hold
-it in the middle of the upper casing. Roll up
-the top shade, lower the sash sufficiently, then
-raise the lower shade till the edge is level with
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>the edge of the sash. Thus air has free ingress
-without rattling the upper shade. A window
-which must be raised ought to have a light
-board pivoted into the casing, so it can be
-turned outward at need, letting in air but preventing
-draughts. With a board a foot wide
-raise the window about ten inches. One window
-open at top, another at bottom will be far
-more effectual than a single window spread
-wide. Note what is outside; if at any time
-smoke or the smell of food comes in, shut the
-window. Allow no odors in a sickroom—neither
-fruit, flowers, spiced food, nor scented
-visitors. This in severe cases; mild ones and
-convalescence demand no such rigors.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Care and Keeping:</b> Keep floors clean by
-wiping with cloths wrung out of hot water
-barely dashed with carbolic acid. The smell
-passes quickly—and is wholesome. Take off
-dust with damp cloths—litter must be prevented.
-Keep a waste basket handy, also a
-bigger basket for soiled things. Have them
-removed at once. Put half a cup of disinfectant
-in any vessel before using it, adding
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>enough to cover discharges as soon as it has
-been used. Remove as quickly as possible.
-Do not keep such things in a closet. Rather
-ambush them behind a light screen set across
-a corner.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Have a table outside to receive trays, cups,
-glasses, uneaten food. Let nothing stand inside
-the room. The bigger table is for medicines,
-clean spoons and glasses, alcohol stove,
-and a supply of ice. Gas light fouls air so
-quickly, avoid it if possible. Electric light has
-the drawback of being hard to graduate. Oil
-lamps require the nicest care. Candles are
-better. Beware of lighting or extinguishing
-either inside the room. Strike no matches
-there if possible to avoid it. Even in lighting
-a fire, do it from a candle lighted outside. Keep
-filled candlesticks on the outer table with
-matches in plenty, and extinguishers handy.
-Take lamps there to put them out.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ice</b>: A nursery refrigerator is well worth
-its cost. Since it is not always to be had, here
-is a good substitute. Set a high wire trivet
-inside a deep agate pan, lay a lump of ice on
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>it, then turn over it a clean flower pot. Plug
-the hole in the flower pot, and cover thickly
-with a folded blanket if in haste. Time permitting,
-make a cozy of cheesecloth thickly
-padded with cotton batting and big enough
-to come to the table outside the pan. Empty
-the pan several times a day. With an awl
-and a toy hammer slivers of ice can be broken
-as needed.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Contagion</b>: Filth diseases—diphtheria, typhoid,
-etc.—spread through effluvia. Discharges
-of all sorts should be deluged with bichloride
-(see section Disinfectants). Even bath
-water needs a dose of it before emptying it.
-All manner of soiled things—towels, sheets,
-clothes—must be sunk in a tub of it as soon as
-taken off, and soaked several hours before
-washing. They need to be well boiled and
-dried in wind and sun. Eruptive ails—measles,
-smallpox, scarlet fever—have two
-periods of danger—in the fever stage before
-eruption, and when peeling. Measles and
-smallpox are most dangerous in fever; scarlet
-fever at the beginning of convalescence. Rub
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>a patient in that stage well over with vaseline
-at least twice a day, bathing afterward with
-warm suds and putting on fresh clothes.
-Change bed linen the same; disinfect with
-extra thoroughness. Put bichloride in the
-water that wets the floor cloths, and be sure
-no dust is allowed to blow outside the room.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Disinfection</b>: Wet everything well with
-bichloride solution, remove furniture, burn
-mattress and comforts, boil and sun blankets.
-Scrape walls and ceiling, wash well with bichloride,
-wash floor and woodwork likewise,
-then scour with carbolic soapsuds. Fill cracks
-of all sorts with fresh putty, shut doors and
-windows tight, and paste strips of paper
-around them. Take off closet doors, but leave
-inside. Tack a strip of tin on the door of
-egress so it will lie flat against the casing.
-Put three bricks in the middle of the floor, set
-an iron skillet on them, put into it a pound of
-flowers of sulphur, wet it with alcohol, stick in
-a short length of fuse, light it, go out quickly,
-close the door for a minute, look in—if the
-sulphur is burning, all is well. Shut the door
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>and leave undisturbed for twenty-four hours.
-Sulphur fumes make an end of germs. They
-also bleach out colors of all sort.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Poultices, Hot Cloths, Mustard Plasters</b>:
-Keep in stock bags of old linen or muslin, with
-drawstrings at top, for poultices. Fill them
-three parts, draw up, and flatten. If they
-must be hot, have three, keeping two in a
-steamer, with the water underneath barely simmering.
-Keep cloths likewise steam-heated,
-take out with a fork, wrap in a thick towel, and
-apply over thin flannel to prevent scalding.
-Wet mustard poultices with white of egg to
-prevent blistering. If severe burning is needed,
-wet with pepper vinegar. Make soft and lay
-thin net or muslin over the face of the poultice.
-For a slow, gentle burning mix the dry mustard
-one-half with flour.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Bandage Jar</b>: Tear old linen into strips
-two to four inches wide, lap ends two inches,
-and sew together. Make many lengths—half
-a yard to five. Pull away ravelings, roll
-smoothly, and fasten. Put a few clean pebbles
-in the bottom of a glass jar, lay paper over
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>them, pack in rolled bandages till half full,
-then fill with absorbent cotton, and stand on a
-plate in a kettle of cold water, which is set over
-the fire. The water ought to reach the neck
-of the jar and be kept at a temperature of a
-hundred and eighty degrees for three hours or
-more. Take from fire then, screw on jar top,
-let cool in water, wipe, and set away.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Finger stalls in variety, with narrow tapes
-for tying, thus sterilized, are a help to mothers.
-Teach children to suck wounds or bites or
-stings instantly—it abates pain and takes out
-dirt and poison. Wash the hurt clean, unless
-a blood clot has formed—it is nature’s own
-remedy, respect it. Put on a stall, hold the
-hurt finger up, and pour upon it either arnica,
-witch hazel, or turpentine. Draw the edges
-of a cut together, clap on adhesive plaster, and
-hold until the plaster sets.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Stanching Blood</b>: Blood spurting in
-bright-red jets means a severed artery—and
-great danger. A steady, dark-red stream
-means a cut vein. For either, knot two handkerchiefs
-hard together, trace the course of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>the blood vessel, put the biggest knot over it,
-thrust in a stick, and twist until the knot
-presses deep into the flesh. In case of an
-artery, put the knot between the hurt and the
-trunk. For a vein set it between the wound
-and the extremities. Work fast—a minute
-may mean life or death.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Clothes for Nursing</b>: Wear nothing that
-cannot be washed; this is the first commandment.
-Wear nothing that rattles, rustles, or
-clings; this is the second, even greater. Light
-colors are refreshing to sick eyes, violent
-figures distressing. Have sleeves that can be
-pushed easily above the elbow, self collars, and
-trim fastenings. A single pin may scratch
-your patient. Eschew hard, starchy edges
-even on an apron. Wear a cap—a sweeping-cap
-is excellent—and change it daily. A long
-kimono apron slipping on over the head is useful
-for such work as bathing, giving alcohol
-spongings, or massage. One-piece frocks are
-imperative. The simpler and easier the better
-all round.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>II<br /> <br />INSIDE A ROOM</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>As to Floors—Scrubbing</b>: Sweep clean,
-take out grease spots and smudges (see section
-Spots and Stains). Have a light knee pad,
-clean brush, a bucket of warm water with a
-clean, soft cloth in it, and plenty of either sand
-soap or a good soap powder at hand. Scrub
-well with a wet brush, putting soap or powder
-before it. Do not slop—too much water
-swells boards and warps them. Scrub a strip,
-rinse with a cloth moderately wet, then wipe
-with the cloth wrung as dry as possible. Wiping
-thus quickly takes up the wet dirt clean.
-Work from each side toward the center, finishing
-at the door. Never use a wiping-cloth
-after it sheds lint.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Staining</b>: Sweep twice—the last time with
-a damp cloth pinned over your broom. Give
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>new boards a coat of filler (see section
-Renovators). Let it dry, sandpaper rough
-spots, then give one or two coats of oil stain,
-using a soft brush and working with the grain
-of the wood. Keep both filler and stain well
-stirred while applying, otherwise neither filling
-nor color will be even. Finish with
-shellac.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Shellac Floors</b>: Sweep, dust with a cloth-wrapped
-broom, moving it the way of the
-grain. Fill any cracks or crevices; then give
-a coat of filler, and when it is full dry two coats
-of shellac. Let the first coat dry for twenty-four
-hours before adding the second.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Waxing Hardwood Floors</b>: Sweep and
-dust, rub rough spots with sandpaper, take
-out spots or smears—if faded spaces are left,
-rub them with sandpaper till a new surface
-appears, or touch with stain, and let dry.
-Go over in long strips, working from opposite
-sides with whatever wax you like, then rub
-until hot with a wooden floor pad (see section
-Equipment). A coat of very thin shellac
-makes cleaning easier, but does not rub to so
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>handsome a surface. Put on the shellac after
-the wax has stood a day.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Removing Stain or Varnish</b>: Use very
-strong lye, either from wood ashes or commercial
-potash, with a lump of washing-soda
-in it. Grease the hands well, so the caustic
-liquor may not eat them. Apply with a
-big sponge or coarse soft cloth, following with
-a damp cloth wrung hard out of warm water.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Removing Paint</b>: Metallic paint whose
-bases are white lead, zinc white, and oxides of
-chromium, iron, and copper mixed in oil hardens
-to a very adherent surface, hence differs
-from water colors, and has to be either burned
-off with a special torch or planed off. Both
-processes demand skilled workmen. It is better
-to bring old paint to a taking surface by
-wetting it first very well with turpentine,
-then, after an hour, going over it with wood
-alcohol and a thick, crumpled cloth. Follow
-the alcohol by washing with lye or strong soda
-water. Let dry, sandpaper rough places, then
-put on new paint—which it will be the part
-of wisdom to have at least as dark as the old.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span><b>Filling Cracks:</b> Cracks large or small must
-be filled before either painting or staining,
-knotholes likewise. If a crack can be seen
-through either, fit into it a sliver of wood before
-filling, or drive in fine brads, leaving the heads
-projecting across the opening. Bend the heads
-below floor level, and set the brads alternately,
-several inches apart. Make putty or paper
-dough (see section Renovators). Fill small to
-medium cracks with putty mixed soft enough
-to squeeze through a paper tube. Make the
-tube by rolling cornerwise a square of tough
-waterproof paper, fastening it, and snipping
-off the pointed end a very little. Use the same
-as a pastry bag. Else roll lumps of putty between
-the palms to form rather fat worms,
-lay the worms end to end along the crack, press
-them down with a putty knife, or any blunt,
-broad-bladed one, making the surface smooth
-and level. If the putty is very soft, sift a
-little dry whiting upon it and press it lightly.
-Put in paper dough with a knife or a blunt
-chisel or screw-driver; smooth the surface by
-laying on a board and beating it with a hammer.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>If the dough smears under the hammering,
-scrape away before it hardens. Plug knotholes
-with the dough, then drive brads through
-it, bend down the heads, and put a thin layer
-over them.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cleaning Waxed Hardwood:</b> Dust daily
-with a soft old silk duster, sweep with a soft
-broom in a clean bag once a week, following
-by hard rubbing with the weighted brush.
-Every three months go over with a flannel wet
-in turpentine, working very quickly, and following
-with a very little boiled linseed oil, applied
-with a clean, hot cloth. Once a year—not
-oftener—wash clean with weak warm borax
-soapsuds, wetting only a yard or so at a time
-and wiping dry immediately. Wax or oil afresh
-after the washing, and rub till very hot with a
-clean pad.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cleaning Stained Floors:</b> Wipe over hard
-and quickly with soft cloths wrung very dry
-out of hot borax soapsuds. Wipe dry and rub
-with a flannel slightly moistened with crude
-kerosene. Beware of using too much—it
-will streak the stain.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span><b>Tile Floors:</b> Tile, the same as brick, stone,
-and mosaic floors, should be washed in warm
-soapsuds, taking pains not to slop, rinsed well,
-and rubbed dry with a thick cloth fastened
-firmly over a flat mop. Be sure no water is
-left standing—it will destroy the setting.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Matted Floor:</b> Sweep twice, the last
-time with a bagged broom. Then wipe quickly
-with salt water, and as quickly rinse with
-fresh. Both waters should be tepid. If there
-is grime, use borax water instead of salt. A
-yearly wiping with fresh, sweet milk, followed
-by a tepid rinsing, makes matting last longer
-by keeping the straw pliant. Rinsing is, however,
-imperative; without it the milk draws a
-pest of flies.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Carpeted Floors:</b> Damp with a fine
-sprinkler before using a sweeper, or dip the
-broom tip in warm water and shake very dry.
-Then wipe with a thick towel pinned tight over
-a stubby broom, washing it out if it gets very
-dirty. A little borax dissolved in the sprinkling-water
-brightens the carpet. So does fine, dry
-snow sprinkled on and swept off so quickly it
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>has not time to melt. But the best thing to
-renew color and freshness is clarified ox gall
-dissolved in blood-warm water. Wash the
-carpet with it, after sweeping as clean as possible,
-using the solution the same as suds and
-taking pains against slopping.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Rugs</b>: When possible, sun rugs before sweeping,
-beating, or vacuum-cleaning them. Spread
-smooth and wipe over with warm, weak borax
-soapsuds, followed by a tepid rinsing. Go
-over both sides, and let dry well before putting
-down. Half yearly wipe them over either
-with the ox-gall solution or fresh sweet milk.
-Rinse after either, but wait an hour to do it.
-The animal matter makes the wool more alive.
-Beware of stretching rugs cornerwise. Hang
-them always with the warp threads across the
-line or the pole.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Walls, Windows, Ceilings—Walls</b>: The
-first thing is to make them sound and firm.
-Fill breaks great or small with plaster (see
-section Renovators). Fasten loose trim neatly
-in place, spread tarpaulin or paper well
-over the floor, then with a broom or long-handled
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>stiff brush go over everything—walls,
-ceiling, woodwork, and molding. Painted
-walls must be washed clean before repainting.
-Whitewashed ones need to have as much as
-possible of the old whitewash swept off. Old
-paper must be sprayed with boiling water, let
-stand till soft, then scraped off. Paper will
-not stick to either hard-finished or whitewashed
-surfaces unless they are washed over
-with strong vinegar or strong alum water, and
-let dry, then sized either with glue or vegetable
-size (see section Renovators). Put windows
-in repair before touching the walls, and, of
-course, freshen the ceilings. Remove all the
-litter before beginning on the walls—the less
-dust there is under your new coverings, the
-longer they stay fresh.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Wall Hangings</b>: Paper-hanging is so simple
-and easy it needs few directions. Strike a
-plumb line before beginning it. Suspend a
-compact weight by a chalked cord from the
-ceiling to the floor, hold it taut there, pull out
-the cord and let it strike back on the wall.
-With a beginning absolutely perpendicular
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>you can make your figures run straight. Have
-the paper trimmed in the shop, cutting the
-left-hand selvage. Measure in generous lengths,
-taking care, if there are figures, that they
-match exactly. Lay the lengths, face down, a
-dozen or so together, flat upon a table or
-scaffold, and cover thickly on the wrong side
-with paper-hanger’s paste (see section Renovators).
-Beware of pasting too many at once—lying
-makes paper tender. Fold back each
-length on itself, pasted sides together. Open
-up as you apply to the wall, with the edge
-true with the plumb line. Smooth the middle
-first, taking care to leave no blisters, then work
-toward the edges, using a soft, clean cloth in
-each hand. Put on three or four lengths, then
-trim along the baseboard. With a border,
-the top is not a matter of concern, but with a
-molding finish it must be extra neat and firm
-in place. Make door and window casing serve
-as their own patterns, by pressing wet paper
-around them on the wall. If a corner out of
-plumb starts your paper askew, strike a new
-plumb line beyond it, about half a foot, split
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>a length of paper, trimming it so the figures
-shall fit those in the length already on the corner,
-lap it from the plumb line over the skewed
-length, then go on keeping the seams straight.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Choice of Paper</b>: Here dogmatism is worse
-than idle. But, in a general way, remember
-blue in all its tones, blue-gray, and granite-gray
-are cool, that yellow warms a north light
-and goes beautifully with oak finish, that red
-should be eschewed except for rooms used
-mostly by artificial light and furnished in very
-dark wood, that green in all save most vivid
-shades is restful, that soft wood-browns are
-excellent indeed to soften a glaring light, that
-white-enameled papers, with the faintest relief
-of gilt in the picture moldings, make the finest
-possible backgrounds for old prints and etchings,
-and, most important, that only plain
-papers will bear having pictures hung upon
-them, unless indeed the pattern is so soft as
-to be indistinguishable. Bedroom papers
-ought to be light and cheerful, but not staring.
-A plain ground with a border, deep or shallow,
-makes a wall that does war with furnishings.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>A painted wall with a cut-out border matching
-the ground tone is a very excellent choice for
-bedrooms. It gives the color value of paper,
-and is more sanitary and more secure against
-invasion.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Burlaps, Cretonne, Linen, and Silk</b>: All
-are easily and quickly applied to walls, but the
-fitting which goes before may be a bit bothersome.
-Strike a plumb line same as for paper.
-Measure lengths, cutting so as to match
-figures. Aim to have the cutting, top and
-bottom, strike exactly in the middle of the
-pattern—this obviates any waste. Allow an
-inch for turning under top and bottom, unless
-the finish is to be molding—for that tack
-single. Have your gimp on reels so it will
-not snarl, and provide a great plenty of tacks.
-Sew lengths together on the machine, using flax
-thread, but not too coarse, a moderately long
-stitch and tension that does not draw. Take
-pains to match figures and fit the lengths to the
-wall as several are sewn together. This is
-trouble that may save worse, as a boggle discovered
-quickly is half remedied. Burlaps can
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>be pasted on, the same as paper. Other things
-must be tacked on, and the edges covered with
-molding or narrow gimp matching their
-colors. Tack loosely at first, holding the cloth
-smooth but taking care not to stretch it. The
-threads in it must run true. At inequalities of
-wall, as in corners, take a tuck on the wrong
-side, press it flat, and put a line of fine tacks in
-the seam. Use barely enough tacks in the
-wall cover to hold it firmly in place—those
-in the gimp, which must be set evenly and not
-too far apart, will secure it. Burlap, even when
-pasted, looks better with a line of brass tacks
-at top and bottom. Cloth is a fine wall covering
-for halls, parlors, dining-rooms, even living-rooms,
-if they are never slept in. But in bedrooms,
-no matter how careful the housekeeping,
-it is not desirable.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Painted Walls</b>: To paint a clean wall requires
-nothing beyond a brush, a step ladder,
-a can of ready-mixed paint, and a right good
-will. Stir the paint well before taking out any,
-and keep it stirred well to the end. Otherwise
-your wall will be like Joseph’s coat of many
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>colors—earth paints have a trick of settling,
-no matter what they are mixed in. Begin at
-the top, use steady strokes of the brush, join
-them well, and rub back and forth to an even,
-smooth surface. Paint as far as you can reach
-handily, then step down a rung, paint below,
-and repeat. A new wall will take two coats;
-one already painted, unless very much defaced,
-needs but one. The paint can be varnished
-after it is dry; but the self-finish is pleasanter.
-Calcimine is put on exactly the same as paint,
-but the first coat must be very thin, the second
-thicker than cream, and the color if any, stirred
-well through the last coat. Remember, with
-either paint or calcimine, the dry wall will
-show much lighter than the paint in the pot.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Whitewashed Walls</b>: Brush off loose particles,
-wash grimy spots clean, take out grease
-spots (see section Spots and Stains), have your
-whitewash ready, keep it hot, do the work, if
-possible, in dry, sunny weather, hot or cold,
-and provide several brushes—long-handled,
-short, and medium. Have a bucket of water
-to stand them in when not in use. In whitewashing
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>above your head, wear glasses and
-stand upon something stable. Wear also a
-light hat with a narrow brim, and loose, soft,
-wash-leather gloves. Save strain by having
-the whitewash pot of handy size, refilling from
-the main supply at need. Use either milk whitewash
-or indoor whitewash (see section Renovators).
-Wood takes up less whitewash than
-other things—two-thirds as much as plaster,
-half as much as brick or stone. Whitewash
-well dashed with carbolic acid is the best and
-most sanitary finish for the inside of cellars,
-stables, and outhouses generally.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Window Glazing</b>: Take out sash, break
-away panes, and remove old putty. If there
-are whole panes guiltless of putty, take them
-out carefully and scrape the sash clean, the
-same as with a broken pane. Lay the sash
-face down, and fit in new panes. Set a tiny
-tack on each of the four sides so as to hold the
-panes. Then put in glazier’s points—to be
-had at any shop. Small tacks will serve instead.
-Press in the points, letting them lie
-flat on the glass. Then lay a worm of putty
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>over glass and points, and smooth it in place
-with a blunt knife. Dip the knife now and
-then in cold water—and keep it wiped clean
-of adherent putty. Smear the glass as little
-as possible, and wipe away smears as quickly
-as made. Let lie until the putty hardens a
-trifle. Paint it as soon as it is firm. Otherwise
-it will weather and crumble. Indeed, it
-is the part of wisdom to paint putty over once
-a year.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ceilings</b>: Papering a ceiling it not easy,
-still not impossible to amateurs. It demands
-a tall stable scaffold almost the length of the
-room—boxes set upon an extension table will
-answer very well. Cut lengths of paper, matching
-the figures, paste, fold, and apply quickly.
-Begin work in the middle of the ceiling—thus
-it is easier to keep the seams true. Fasten an
-end lightly to the ceiling, then press lightly
-along the middle till you come to the other
-end. Sight, and if this first length is bias or
-crooked, loosen it and put it on straight.
-Press on very hard and be sure there are no
-blisters. Small blisters can be pin-pricked and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>patted down, but big ones require to have the
-paper lifted bodily, the air pressed out, then
-the paper patted back. Ceiling paper ought
-to have very small figures and delicate tones,
-much lighter than those of the walls.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Fabrics of any sort are best applied to ceilings
-in separate lengths and the joins covered
-with heavy moldings put on with brass-headed
-nails. This gives much the effect of a beamed
-ceiling at lower cost. A ceiling that crumbles
-badly should have strips of smooth deal nailed
-fast to it at even distances. The fabric can
-then be tacked to these with no fear of
-falling.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>If a ceiling is too high, never put anything
-striped on the wall. A heavy border apparently
-lowers a ceiling—all the more if it is put
-on several inches below the ceiling proper, and
-the wall space finished to match overhead.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Calcimine and Whitewash</b>: Both are applied
-the same way—with soft, broad brushes
-slapped back and forth until no grain shows.
-The surface must be clean and free of loose
-particles. Wash off old calcimine with strong
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>soda water and let dry before applying fresh.
-Put on three coats, the same as for walls.
-The prepared cakes are cheap and handy, but
-there is more certainty and more satisfaction
-in home-mixing (see section Renovators).</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>III<br /> <br />EQUIPMENT AND RENOVATORS</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Equipment</b>: These things will make house-work
-easier by saving strength and temper.
-Being neither costly nor cumbersome, the
-simplest home may well find room for them
-or such part of them as it needs.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Knee Pad</b>: Make of stout cloth twenty
-inches by twelve, stuff two inches thick, tack
-in lines to hold flat, and sew oilcloth upon the
-under side.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Foot Pad</b>: Make two feet square, stuff an
-inch and a half thick, and tack flat. Stand on
-it when ironing, washing, or preparing food.
-It saves strength and prevents cold feet.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Floor Pad</b>: For rubbing waxed hardwood
-or stained floors. Get a block of wood, brick-shaped,
-hollow the upper edges on both sides
-so it can be grasped, put a strap across, then
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>cover the lower face with many thicknesses of
-flannel and chamois skin. Alternate them and
-have leather outside. Keep dry and away
-from dust.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Water Wagon</b>: Screw castors to the corners
-of a board a foot square. A pail set on
-it can be pushed about much easier than lifted.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Broom Bags</b>: Have a set of six—two each
-of crash, Turkish toweling, and outing flannel.
-Keep clean, and be sure the drawing-tapes are
-not left knotted or broken.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Brooms</b>: Have at least two brooms—one
-stiff, one pliant. Choose fine straw of a
-greenish cast rather than yellow. Eschew
-painted handles; sandpaper is the remedy for
-rough places. Put a screw eye in the tip
-of the handles and hang the brooms from
-hooks. Wash before hanging up.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Floor Brushes</b>: A weighted brush needs to
-be kept dry and clean and so set that the
-bristles do not crush. Choose it light rather
-than heavy. See that the handle is set at the
-angle to suit your height and that the bristles
-are of the very best quality.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span><b>Dust Cloths</b>: Make of many sorts and
-sizes, from a foot square to half a yard.
-Cheesecloth, flannel, old silk, and crash—all
-answer well. Overcast edges loosely instead
-of hemming. Keep clean and dry in a box
-or drawer.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Dust Swabs</b>: Tie a handful of cotton, excelsior,
-or even crumpled paper inside a soft
-cloth and about the end of a light rod. Use to
-dust walls, floors, and ceilings, changing the
-cloth as it gets dirty. Sprinkling the cloth
-with alcohol, turpentine, or gasolene makes it
-more effective where the dust is grimy.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Silk Duster</b>: Crumple soft old silk into
-a big floppy rosette and fasten to a rod.
-Use upon pictures and picture moldings, also
-on waxed floors newly polished.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ironing-boards</b>: Shape the blanket, sew
-up, and fit smoothly, letting the small end of
-the board project bare an inch or two. Draw
-taut over the wide end and sew with flax
-thread. Make shaped covers of unbleached
-cotton, open at the small end, rounded to fit
-the other and hemmed. Draw on a cover and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>pin tight at the broad end. Let the seams
-come along the edge of the board. Change
-covers after use. Have a smaller board,
-similarly covered, to use when sitting down—it
-is laid on the knees. Have also a covered
-bosom board if shirts are home-ironed, and a
-smooth straight board of handy size, covered
-with two thicknesses of flannel and one of
-clean cotton, for ironing embroidery or anything
-raised.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Sprinklers</b>: Keep a tin sprinkler with a
-fine rose for dampening clean clothes or
-sprinkling floors or carpets. If ammonia or
-alcohol is put into the sprinkling-water, rinse
-the sprinkler well before putting it away.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Tool Box</b>: Fill cracks with putty to keep
-out dampness, hinge on a cover, and furnish
-with a padlock. Keep in it a sharp fine saw,
-a hatchet, tack hammer, brace and assorted
-bits, chisel, monkey wrench, screw-driver, and
-gimlets. Also assorted brads, tacks, wire nails,
-screw hooks, screw eyes, and picture wire.
-A putty knife is useful. A T-square and foot
-rule are indispensable. Keep the box stationary,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>and insist that whatever is taken from it
-shall be put back in good condition.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Wax Board</b>: Cover a small clean board
-with flannel, sewing it firmly, rub the flannel
-well over with softened—not melted—paraffine,
-and keep for smoothing irons.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Laundry Cabinet</b>: Have a laundry cabinet
-if it is no more than starch boxes set one
-on the other. Keep in it starch, soap, blueing,
-Javelle water for stains, soap powder, washing-soda,
-irons and holders, the wax board, and
-sandpaper, which is sovereign for roughened
-irons. Keep also a filled pin cushion and a
-bundle of clean rags. Close with a roller shade
-instead of door or curtain.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Clothes Drainer</b>: Tack coarse burlap
-over a big wooden hoop so loosely it sags
-smartly. Nail stout legs to the hoop, spreading
-them so a tub can be set underneath. Drop
-clothes sopping wet from the rinse into the
-hoop, and save time, strength, and wear.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Lead Swab</b>: For use on marble, brick, or
-stone—especially good for removing smoke
-and rust stains. Sew a pound of buckshot
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>rather tightly inside stout canvas, tie the canvas
-in chamois skin, and change the leather as it
-grows soiled.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Sawdust</b>: Get a peck of clean non-resinous
-sawdust, sift, and sun or oven-dry. Keep dry.
-Use on floors, also for drying and polishing
-intricate surfaces. Heat for use, but do not
-scorch.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Pine Needles</b>: Clean pine needles, if available,
-should be kept for polishing floors, either
-hardwood or stained. Heat very slightly and
-strew them in front of the weighted brush or
-broom.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Brick Dust</b>: Beat a soft brick to powder,
-sift it and keep dry. Use with a chamois
-dipped in oil, else upon the cut surface of a raw
-potato. Especially useful for spots on steel
-or for polishing pewter and copper.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Wall Mop</b>: Cut washed cheesecloth into
-even strips, tack as many as can be firmly
-fastened to the end of a light rod, and shake
-free of lint. Clean by dipping up and down
-in soapsuds or gasolene after use.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Care of Brushes</b>: All manner of brushes,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>especially floor and vegetable ones, should be
-washed clean, scalded by dipping to the back,
-no deeper, in boiling water, then dried, brush
-down, in open air, and kept dry. Whisk
-brooms should hang the same as full-grown
-ones, likewise hearth brooms. Stand clothes
-and hair brushes bristles down—this so they
-may not collect dust. The safest wash for them
-is gasolene, letting it come only to the back,
-not over it. Hot borax soapsuds, likewise
-used, clean without loosening the bristles.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Renovators—Filler for New Wood</b>: Sift
-twice together half a pint of powdered corn
-starch and as much whiting. Stir gradually
-into a half gallon of raw linseed oil mixed with
-the same quantity of turpentine. Take care
-there are no lumps and keep well stirred while
-putting on.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Oil Stains</b>: Use the same mixture of oil
-and turpentine. For cherry put into the
-gallon an ounce of Indian red, stir well through,
-test, if too pale add more color. If too deep,
-add oil and turpentine. Work with the wood
-grain in putting on any sort of stain.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span><b>Mahogany Stain</b>: Four parts Indian red,
-three parts burnt sienna. Mix dry and stir
-evenly through the oil and turpentine. Use
-half sienna for a dull tone. To make stains
-dry quickly add a pint more turpentine and
-half a pint less oil.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Walnut Stain</b>: Use burnt umber, an ounce
-to the gallon. A little dry ocher mixed with
-the umber gives a livelier tone. Red or yellow,
-or both, can be put in, but must be very well
-mixed.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Oak Stain</b>: Raw umber is the basis of oak
-stain; proportion and mix like the others.
-Antique oak requires burnt sienna mixed well
-with a very little lampblack, also to have two
-parts of turpentine to one of oil. Apply it
-with a sponge or swab of cotton waste and rub
-into the grain lines, leaving the spaces between
-bare.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Wax Finish for Stained or Hardwood</b>:
-Melt over boiling water half a pound of yellow
-beeswax with half a pint of sweet oil. Beat
-hard a minute, take from fire, add half a cup
-of turpentine, and beat until nearly cold. Keep
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>covered in glass or earthenware. Apply soft,
-but not liquid, with a clean flannel, and polish
-by rubbing until hot.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Dancing-wax</b>: Used on Colonial ballrooms.
-Melt together over boiling water a pound of
-yellow beeswax and half a pint of filtered
-neat’s-foot oil. Add resin the size of a walnut
-melted in half a cup of new unsalted butter.
-Beat well, take from fire, stir in a cup of turpentine,
-and keep covered. Apply soft, and
-polish with hard rubbing.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Furniture Polish No. 1</b>: Equal parts of
-sweet oil, choloroform, and alcohol shaken hard
-together, rubbed on quickly, then polished by
-rubbing until hot.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Piano Polish</b>: Shake hard together equal
-parts of sweet oil, turpentine, and vinegar.
-Add a very little naphtha, apply with silk or
-flannel, and rub hard afterward.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>French Polish</b>: For dark wood, especially
-old mahogany. Melt together over hot water
-ten parts pale resin, ten parts palm oil. Mix,
-take from fire, add eighty parts benzine, one
-part essence peppermint, and half a part essence
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>of verbena. Keep sealed in glass, away
-from heat. Use away from light or fire. Apply
-with soft old silk, and polish by rubbing
-with very soft silk or flannel.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>The Glue Pot</b>: Melt glue only as required.
-Cover dry glue with cold water after breaking
-up well, put salt water in the bath outside,
-bring to a boil, then simmer until the glue ropes
-a little. Thin with hot vinegar. To mend
-things white or light-colored, melt the clearest
-glue in a china cup inside a saucepan, and thin
-after melting with gin instead of vinegar.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>To Make Glue Size</b>: Melt a pound of glue,
-thin with a quart of hot vinegar, then stir well
-through two to five gallons hot water, according
-to the strength required.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Vegetable Size</b>: Tie a gallon of wheat bran
-or cornmeal bran loosely in net or cheesecloth;
-boil for five hours in five gallons of water, filling
-up as it boils away. Add a lump of alum after
-the bran bag is removed. Apply hot to walls
-or wood.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Calcimine</b>: Stir sifted whiting into strong
-glue size until it is thicker than cream. Clear
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>with a little blueing. Thin at need with boiling
-water. Tint with earth colors in powder.
-Red and yellow ocher mixed give a pinkish-cream
-tint; yellow alone true cream. Indian
-red makes pink; by adding burnt sienna the
-color is pinkish fawn. Yellow ocher with
-burnt umber gives various shades of brown.
-Always mix colors rather pale at first, try out
-on a board, then add what is lacking.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Whitewashes</b>: Either glue or vegetable size
-may be the foundation. Add a big lump of
-salt to five gallons of size, stir well, and pour
-boiling hot upon half a peck of unslaked lime.
-Clear with Prussian blue and apply very hot.
-For sanitary carbolic whitewash use vegetable
-size, dissolving in five gallons, boiling hot, two
-ounces of carbolic crystals. Then pour upon
-the lime and mix well. Two ounces of copperas—green
-vitriol—dissolved instead of the
-carbolic acid gives a faint-yellow tinge and is a
-good prophylactic. To kill vermin, as in
-poultry houses, nest boxes, and so on, mix
-through a pail of hot wash five grains of corrosive
-sublimate dissolved in a pint of water;
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>put on as a first coat, and after a while give a
-second coat of plain whitewash.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Milk Whitewash</b>: Stir into a gallon of sweet
-milk enough unslaked lime in fine powder to
-make it thicker than cream. Add a teacup of
-turpentine, stir well, and put on at once with
-a paint brush. This sticks to smooth wood
-nearly the same as paint, and can be colored
-with earth paints almost any shade.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Paste for Paper-hanging</b>: Wet up smooth
-in cold water two tablespoonfuls of flour and
-stir it into a gallon of water on the bubbling
-boil. Stir hard to prevent lumps, add a small
-spoonful of tallow, cook for several minutes,
-then add an ounce of alum dissolved in half
-a pint of boiling water. Take from fire and
-add ten drops oil of cloves.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>White Mucilage</b>: For mending books and
-making scrap books. Cover clean gum
-tragacanth with cold water, let stand till dissolved,
-then add oil of cloves to keep from
-molding. Keep in a glass jar tightly closed.
-This leaves no mark.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Gum Arabic</b>: For clear starching and shirt
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>bosoms. Get four ounces of dry gum, pick
-over carefully, throwing out dark pieces and
-blowing away dust. Pour upon it a pint of
-boiling water, let stand till dissolved, filter,
-and bottle. A tablespoonful added to a quart
-of starch gives a high gloss. Two spoonfuls in
-a quart of tepid water will stiffen fine lawn or
-muslin sufficiently and restore the new look.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Paper Dough</b>: Crumple newspaper very
-soft, tear to bits, dampen, pound, and knead
-well, then wet with strong glue size and knead
-to a dough. For wall breaks, rat holes, filling
-yawning cracks, or rounding corners, mix in
-plaster of Paris at the moment of application
-and pound in place before the plaster sets.
-Mix only what can be used at once.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>White Cement</b>: Mix sifted whiting to a
-soft dough with white of egg, for filling small
-holes in white walls or cracks in ceilings.
-Press in with a blunt knife and smooth the
-surface with the blade dipped in cold water.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Sand and Plaster</b>: Sift together fine sand
-and plaster, wet with hot water, and use to
-fill bigger breaks in a wall. Wet only a little
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>at a time and work quickly. Lay a board over
-the mortar as soon as in place, and beat with a
-hammer to smooth.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Putty</b>: Sift two pounds of whiting into a
-bowl, make a hole in the middle, and wet
-with raw linseed oil, soft or stiff according to
-your requirements. Knead the same as dough.
-To keep, pack down in glass and pour a little
-oil over the top. Should be always on hand,
-as it is about the most useful of the renovators.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cement for Glass</b>: Cover isinglass with
-gin in a glass jar, set in sunshine until dissolved,
-then filter. It should be as clear as water.
-For mending colored glass rub down a trifle
-of oil color in a spoonful of the cement.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Sugar Cement</b>: Cook to candy height the
-purest loaf sugar. Apply hot to heated edges.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Lime Water</b>: Pour a gallon of boiling water
-upon a lump of quicklime the size of two fists.
-Stir hard, let settle, pour off the clear water,
-bottle, and keep corked tight.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Javelle Water</b>: A bleach so effectual it must
-not touch colors. Dissolve half a pound of
-washing-soda in a pint of boiling water, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>add it to a quart of boiling water in which a
-quarter pound of chloride of lime has been
-dissolved. Stir, let settle, pour off clear,
-bottle, cork, and keep dark.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Chloride-of-lime Water</b>: Pour a gallon of
-boiling water upon a pound of dry chloride.
-Stir well, let settle, pour off clear, bottle, and
-keep well corked, dark, and cool. Dissolve
-in wood or earthenware—metal corrodes.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Oxalic Acid</b>: Put four ounces of crystals
-with half a pint cold water into a quart bottle,
-shake hard and often till the crystals dissolve.
-This makes a saturated solution. If ragged
-crystals remain, add a gill more cold water.
-Keep plainly labeled “Poison.” Take care not
-to let it touch a scratch or fresh cut on the
-hands, also to keep it away from children.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Copperas Water</b>: Dissolve a heaping tablespoonful
-of copperas in a gallon of boiling
-water. Pour through drains, sinks, or into
-gutters. Sprinkle bad-smelling places plentifully
-with it and spray it over green-scummed
-pools. It is an ideal disinfectant—cheap,
-odorless, and effectual, withal safe.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>IV<br /> <br />CHINA, GLASS, AND FURNITURE</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Washing Fine China</b>: Never soak fine
-china, never wash it with scouring-soap, soap
-powder, nor yellow-resin soap. Unless very
-greasy clean with borax water. Wipe and
-scrape off as much soil as possible before
-washing. Have the water pleasantly warm—boiling
-water is ruinous. Rinse water should
-be a trifle hotter than the suds. Except in
-emergencies, never put on any sort of soap.
-Put only a few pieces at a time into the suds,
-wash, rinse, and stand to drain. Have a thick
-cloth on the draining-board—with very thin
-ware have another thick cloth over the pan
-bottom. Change suds as they grow dirty.
-Add hot water from time to time. Even temperature
-is the thing. Wipe with soft clean
-towels after draining well, but before the ware
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>is dry. Wash things in sets; as dried lay a
-paper napkin between, and set away the pile
-upon something soft. Squares of Turkish
-toweling are excellent.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Use a soft thick brush for relief or incised
-decorations or lace edges. Dip it lightly in
-powdered borax or white soapsuds and rub
-steadily but not too hard. Set things which
-have held milk, creams, thick soups, sauces,
-or gelatine compounds in clear warm water
-for three minutes, and rub away as much of
-what sticks to them as possible before putting
-them into the suds. Soap combined with
-milk or gelatine makes the water slimy, the
-ware sticky. Boiling water sets either milk
-or gelatine. If possible, rinse and wash things
-soiled with them as soon as empty. In wiping
-do not rub gilt borders—rather pat them dry.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Burnish half yearly with a swab of sifted
-whiting tied in soft silk. Intricate gilding
-may have the whiting sifted on while damp
-and brushed off after drying. In storing keep
-sets and sizes together. Set things so they
-will not jostle nor clatter nor tip. Stand
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>platters on edge in a special grooved shelf, the
-biggest at the back. If piled, put something
-between, less to save breakage than to prevent
-a possible chipping of glaze. Things bought
-in cases should be stored in them, the cases set
-in drawers or on low shelves. High setting
-invites dropping and ruinous breakage.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ironstone and Majolica</b>: Wash in warm
-(not hot) suds, with a clean soft cloth, rinse in
-hotter water, and wipe almost immediately.
-Beware of chipping, beware also of cracking
-glaze by setting in heat or boiling water.
-Such ware is porous enough to take up grease
-and other things. Cracked or chipped dishes
-should not be used except to hold things like
-raw fruit, bread, sandwiches, or dry stores.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Gilt and Cut Glass</b>: Remove cream or
-jelly with a quick rinse, wash in suds or borax
-water, a little more than blood-warm, using a
-clean soft brush on the cuttings. Have a cloth
-on the pan bottom if the cutting is deep, the
-article of good size. Use white soap—resin
-soaps get into fine lines and stay there. Pass
-from suds into a hotter rinse water, turn over
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>and about, lift, turn upside down, then plunge
-into another water a very little hotter. If
-the ware is very white, the third water should
-have salt in it—a tablespoonful to the gallon.
-With glass less white, put blueing in the third
-water, turn about, and set upside down upon a
-thick cloth for three minutes, then put in a box
-and sift over hot fine sawdust—“jeweler’s
-sawdust” if possible, else dust with fine whiting,
-set in a warm (not hot) place and leave
-till dry. Brush off sawdust or whiting with
-a stiff brush, polish lightly with soft old silk,
-and store when fully cool.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Glass with silver inlay or incrustation must
-be rubbed after washing with a chamois skin
-dipped in whiting. Clean decanters and claret
-jugs by putting inside either a few buckshot
-and shaking them about in a cupful of tepid
-water dashed with ammonia, or else lightly
-folded squares of stiff brown paper with
-barely enough ammonia water to moisten.
-These remove wine incrustations. If the
-stains are obstinate, fill the decanter with
-tepid water, add a pinch of borax, and let it
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>stand. Tiny pills of whiting wet up with
-alcohol and ammonia, dried, dropped inside,
-and shaken about, then dissolved out with
-tepid water, leave the insides clear and bright.
-So do crushed egg shells.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Wash gilt and Bohemian glass—indeed, any
-fancy glass—with a very soft brush and tepid
-white suds, rinse in hotter water, drain almost
-dry, then polish with absorbent cotton dipped
-lightly in powdered whiting. Iridescent and
-bubble glass should not be wiped. Drain
-instead, and polish when ready to use with a
-wisp of cotton. Cameo glass, or any with
-patterns in relief, must be washed with a stiff
-brush, in weak suds, rinsed thoroughly, and
-dried in gentle, steady heat rather than wiped.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Pressed Glass</b>: Wash and rinse in water the
-same temperature, drain, but not too long, and
-wipe. Beware of linty towels. Be sure to run
-cloth or mop inside water glasses, otherwise
-they become dull quickly. Wash pitchers the
-same way; water leaves sediment—accumulations
-of it are hard to remove. Imitation
-cuttings must be brushed—they had better
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>be eschewed. Plain, clear surfaces are much
-handsomer. Bowls set one in the other should
-have paper between. Load no glass thing
-heavily—the rumble or jar of a passing wagon
-may cause breakage if you do.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Annealing Glass</b>: Annealing lessens sensibly
-the risk of breakage. Pack the glass
-snugly in a boiler, fill with cold water, bring to a
-boil, keep simmering three to four hours, then
-throw over a thick cloth and let cool very
-slowly. Remove only when fully cold. Especially
-useful for thin tumblers, lamp chimneys,
-and finger bowls. Put a board or a
-handful of clean sticks in the bottom of the
-boiler, so the heat shall not break things set
-lowest.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Knives and Forks</b>: Have a pitcher just tall
-enough to hold knives, up to the handle.
-Do not quite fill it with very hot borax suds,
-stand knives in it, and leave till other things
-are out of the way, then wash blades, wipe
-off handles, rinse very quickly in clear tepid
-water, wipe dry, polish with a clean chamois,
-and hold with a clean cloth in putting away.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>This to save finger marks which grow often to
-stains or tarnishes upon knives seldom used.
-All-silver knives can be treated the same as
-other silver or plated things—still pitcher-washing
-is as good for them as any other.
-Ivory handles or pearl ones, or those of stag-horn
-or composition, all are injured by either
-soaking or very hot water. Carving-sets are
-frequently defaced hopelessly by rubbing the
-handles with scouring-soap. Instead use only
-lather, washing it off instantly. If suspicious
-of grease in the seam, wrap a fine-pointed
-skewer in thin cloth and run all around, pressing
-hard. Wipe knife handles very dry, else
-lay them for ten minutes in gentle heat to
-expel possible moisture around the rivets.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Restoring Antique Furniture</b>: Take out
-grease or ink spots (see section Spots and
-Stains), then go over with a turpentine cloth
-sopping wet, rub and rub and rub. Follow
-with an alcohol cloth and more rubbing, then
-a wash in strong hot suds, followed by rubbing
-dry. Now take stock of the surface. If there
-are dents, raise them by laying on very wet
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>blotting-paper and drying it with a blazing-hot
-iron. Repeat if necessary—steam does
-the work. Sandpaper away scratches, or rub
-them with emery and a little oil, or scrape
-with broken glass. Go over again with turpentine
-to remove the last traces of varnish
-or grime. Then sandpaper to a new surface,
-and either oil, varnish, or give a wax finish (see
-section Renovators).</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Before resurfacing drive up loose dowels,
-wedging them tight, glue afresh rickety joins,
-strengthening them further with slender brads
-driven in from the under side. Glue broken
-bits in place—if they are missing, make the
-break smooth and fit into it a new piece.
-Cut the old wood, slanting outward—thus it
-is possible to drive very short brads from
-underneath. A vise helps greatly in such repairs—the
-harder held the pieces, the firmer
-and less visible the join. After it is dry,
-sandpaper; if the new wood fails to match the
-old, stain and rub down before waxing or
-polishing. Tiny gaps can be filled with putty
-mixed with dry color approaching that of the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>wood. This will take either oil stain or a wax
-finish.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Tighten rickety drawers so they slide easily.
-Remedy bad feet by chiseling out shattered
-wood and putting in plugs of sound wood to
-hold the castors. Glue in the new plugs, also
-nail them fast. Grease the points of nails to
-save splitting the old wood. Set them invisibly
-and drive gently, but see that they go
-fully home. Remove glass or brass mounting
-while resurfacing. Clean and brighten them
-(see section Brass) before replacing. Tighten
-metal linings about keyholes with putty, put
-on inside. All padding, upholstery, or baize
-tops must, of course, be taken wholly away.
-Save them, no matter how ragged, as patterns
-for new stuff.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Refinish and repair frames thus stripped
-before recovering. Very handsome things had
-better be put in professional hands unless you
-have practised upon plainer ones. It is a
-waste of strength and material to put handsome
-new covers over musty padding or to
-botch and pucker hopelessly through inexperience.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>In the courage of her economies a
-clever woman learns quickly the knack of
-upholstery. Minute directions are impossible—each
-sofa or couch or easy chair is so much
-a law unto itself. In a general way, have all
-necessary things handy—as covering muslin,
-webbing, springs, tacks, twine, upholsterer’s
-needles, moss or curled hair, brads in variety,
-sharp shears, and stout pliers for dragging
-through reluctant needles. Press out old
-covers and use as patterns for the new. Model
-your work as nearly as possible on what you
-took away. Remember always before fastening
-on covers to mark the middle of them and set
-it accurately to the middle of the frame, tacking
-it thence both ways. Pad arms and backs
-first, then basket-weave webbing across the
-bottom, drawing it very taut, put on springs,
-fasten them with twine to the webbing, lay
-thin cloth over, put a thick layer of stuffing
-upon it, then fit the muslin cover and tack
-smoothly to the frame. Tuft or leave plain
-according to style and period. Cut the ornamental
-covering very accurately, sew together,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>following the original, fit smooth, and cover
-the edges with gimp. With figured material,
-cut so the boldest figure shall appear in the
-middle of back and seat or equidistant from
-ends of the panels of long sofas. Practise upon
-something cheap—here as everywhere else
-experience is the best teacher.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Care of Antiques</b>: Old mahogany, rose-wood,
-ebony, cherry, or walnut differ little in
-their requirements. Each and several, they
-film over. To brighten, wash in warm (not
-hot) naphtha soapsuds, wetting only a little
-space at a time, wiping it quickly with a cloth
-wrung from clear hot water, and as quickly
-rubbing dry. Washing complete, rub hard
-with old silk or flannel, then apply either
-French polish, piano polish, or wax finish
-(see section Renovators). Put this on with a
-soft cloth and rub in until the surface burns
-your hand. Washing is necessary about half
-yearly, except in rooms where there is a great
-deal of gas or candlelight and much greasy
-vapor. Dinner tables in steady use ought to
-be washed and polished monthly. Rub deep
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>carvings with chamois over the point of a blunt
-skewer, changing its place every little while.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Brass Bedsteads</b>: Respect their lacquer.
-Keep water far from them, likewise alcohol,
-gasolene, or naphtha. Smears may be wiped
-off with cloths slightly damp, followed by wiping
-with one dry and soft. Wipe dust away
-with softened cheesecloth, remove finger marks
-by gentle rubbing with crumpled soft silk or
-old flannel. Have a thick soft brush to take
-dust from carving or curled rails. Wipe off
-grease with soft flannel and polish the spot
-with a very little sifted chalk or whiting on a
-clean cloth. Tarnish is a proof that lacquer
-has been destroyed—the remedy is relacquering,
-but mitigate until that is possible by
-oxalic acid or vinegar and salt (see section
-Renovators).</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Brass trimmings upon enamel bedsteads,
-cribs, etc., need the same care. So do brass
-frames, trays, etc. Elaborate chasings can be
-brightened without injury by coating thickly
-with powdered starch, letting it stand a day,
-then brushing it away.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span><b>Mission Furniture and Fumed Oak</b>:
-Dust real mission pieces with a soft damp
-cloth followed by a dry one barely sprinkled
-with turpentine. Use any good leather dressing
-on seats and backs. Neat’s-foot oil and
-beeswax, equal quantities, melted over hot
-water with twice their bulk of turpentine, is a
-good thing, and safe. Apply soft but not
-liquid, put on barely enough to rub over the
-leather, and rub until absorbed. For fumed
-and Flemish oak use a soft, thick dust brush,
-followed by a thick cloth slightly dampened.
-If greasy or grimy, wash very quickly in hot
-naphtha soapsuds, wipe dry, and rub until hot.
-Once a year rub very lightly over with sweet
-oil, turpentine, and alcohol, equal parts, shaken
-well together. Varnished pieces can have thin
-white varnish instead of alcohol. Put on with
-flannel and rub till hot.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Gilt Furniture</b>: Dust well, and either sift
-on whiting, let stand an hour, and brush off
-or cover a little at a time with whiting and
-alcohol, as thick as cream, let stand three
-minutes, wipe with a damp cloth, and rub dry
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>with old silk or flannel. Take away specks of
-whiting or tarnish with a swab of chalk tied in
-silk and wet with alcohol. Cork sawdust tied
-tight in chamois makes a good burnisher if high
-polish is desired. Garlands, bow knots, and
-traceries need to be rubbed out with a blunt
-skewer inside a clean leather and polished the
-same way, using silk or flannel in place of
-leather.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Gilt Frames</b>: Cover with the cream of
-whiting and alcohol after wiping and brushing
-away all possible dust. Remove and polish
-as above directed. Repair breaks and chippings
-with plaster wet with white of egg, and
-paint with the finest gold paint, then burnish.
-Take off fly specks with a cloth dipped in
-alcohol, and rub away any obstinate dark
-specks or remnant of whiting with the same
-cloth.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Upholstered Furniture</b>: Cover the stuffings
-with a bath towel, whip lightly, shaking
-the towel whenever it shows dust, then brush
-evenly with a soft bristle brush, wipe out the
-tuftings with a swab of cotton tied in silk on
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>the point of a blunt skewer. Wipe quickly all
-over with a flannel wrung dry out of hot water,
-following with a cloth wet in alcohol. Change
-or wash the cloths as they grow dirty, especially
-upon delicate colors. Neither cloths nor
-swabs must be wet enough to leave marks.
-Alcohol, properly used, will leave no trace upon
-anything. Wash the wood in white soapsuds,
-about blood-warm, wipe dry, and rub with a
-flannel sprinkled with kerosene. This for
-ordinary wood; very fine things, and especially
-inlaid ones, had better have sweet oil and turpentine
-on the polishing-cloth, and not too
-much.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Upholstery can be dry-cleaned with starch
-and whiting sifted together and applied thickly
-all over it. Let stand a day, in sunshine if
-possible, then brush off, going over and over.
-If there are grimy spaces, wet them with
-alcohol before putting on the powder. Brush
-hard, and if flecks remain take them off with a
-cloth wet in alcohol.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Wicker Furniture</b>: Scrub raw wicker with
-a stiff brush and white soapsuds, rinse, dry
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>quickly, then brush over with turpentine, sweet
-oil, and alcohol, equal parts, mixed, then one-fifth
-their bulk of thin varnish added. Coat
-well. When dry, rub over with a thick soft
-cloth.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Dust gilt or enameled wicker very clean,
-wash quickly in weak tepid suds, wipe, and sift
-on whiting and corn starch, let stand half an
-hour, and brush off. Dry-cleaning alone suffices
-for things not much soiled. Instead of
-sifting, the starch and chalk or whiting may be
-tied tight in coarse net and used as a swab.
-Take out spots and stains (see section Spots
-and Stains) before cleaning.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Porch Furniture</b>: Porch furniture, whether
-rattan, rustic, or bamboo, needs only to be
-dusted, well and quickly, washed in tepid suds,
-dried, and rubbed liberally all over with crude
-kerosene and creosoted turpentine (see section
-Renovators). Dry in air, but away from sun;
-do the work, however, if possible, upon a dry,
-sunny day.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Enameled Iron</b>: Resurface things as they
-chip (see section Making Whole). Wash clean
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>in tepid suds after dusting, wipe dry, then rub
-over lightly with sweet oil and alcohol, equal
-parts, with a teaspoonful of thin varnish added
-to the pint and well shaken.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Sundry Preventions</b>: Crumple tissue
-paper thickly over upholstered furniture before
-putting on covers—it saves from wear, dust,
-and fading. Newspapers pasted into big
-sheets and spread over floor, bed, dresser, and
-couch in spare rooms likewise catch dust and
-stop light. They can be gathered up in a few
-minutes; take care, though, to lift edges first
-and shake dust inward, then fold. Where sunshine
-falls upon matting a double thickness of
-paper saves fading. Narrow lengths either to
-hang or pin about draperies will keep the
-draperies fresh. Paper is as nearly impervious
-to dust as almost anything known. Paper bags
-tied over gas globes, brass door knobs, and
-candlesticks prevent both dust and tarnish.
-Also there is no better summer ambush for
-articles of “bigotry and virtue” than a thick
-swathing of tissue paper inside a paper bag.
-Newspaper has further the merit of discouraging
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>moths—they hate printers’ ink the same as
-other plunderers. Shut down windows upon
-newspaper, letting it fall well over the inner
-sill, and there will be no fading of paint there
-nor cakings of dust.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Glue rounds of felt to the feet of all things not
-furnished with castors if you would save
-polished floors from marking. A brad or two,
-driven upward, the heads well sunk, will add
-stability. Old soft hats will furnish the
-rounds. Instead, you may use a contrivance
-now in market, which is practically the same
-thing, also cheap and convenient.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>V<br /> <br />MAKING WHOLE</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Rickety Furniture</b>: Scrape or file away
-old glue from loosened joins, cover with fresh
-glue very hot (see section Renovators). Tie fast
-together or put in a vise, protecting the jaws of
-it with thick paper, and let stand two days.
-Reinforce then underneath with iron—a light
-angle iron for corners, strap iron with holes
-punched along each edge for straight breaks.
-Small light metal hinges often answer admirably.
-Screw everything firmly in place, then
-scrape away oozing of glue outside, sandpaper,
-and refinish.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>A jagged break needs glue extra thick and
-hot. Brush it well into broken fibers, both
-ends, press them together, fasten firmly, let
-harden, scrape away oozings, and screw on
-strap iron with holes an inch apart in the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>edges. Put it inside or underneath, and if it
-shows, as on chair or table legs, paint to match
-the wood, and varnish when dry.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Fine brads, driven in alternately, slantwise,
-on the under side, will hold cracks fast, but not
-so fast as strap iron. Hinges set in an angle
-need a little wood gouged away so they may
-lie flat against the wood. Fill gaps in a splintered
-surface with putty colored to match.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Glass and China</b>: No cement ever made at
-home or commercially will bear long soaking in
-hot water or suds. Hard usage is also impossible.
-Notwithstanding, mending is well worth
-while, wherefore save the pieces, and especially
-save tiny splinters. Otherwise your mending
-will be vain. Twice a year have a mending-day,
-saving up breakage against it. Work at
-a steady table set in good light but not glaring.
-Have a white table cover, a bowl of hot water,
-a cup of alcohol, plenty of clean rags, several
-camel’s-hair brushes of varying size, a tumbler
-of water to hold them when not in use, plenty
-of twine, tying-tape, new rubber bands in variety,
-a pair of swinging weights, and on the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>floor, out of the way, a box half full of damp
-earth or sand. You need in addition squares of
-deal or cardboard for setting out of the way
-mended things. Also a pound of putty mixed
-stiff and, if mending ornaments, gold paint and
-colors in powder.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>With a simple clean fracture, as across a
-platter, wash edges very clean, using a brush
-and suds, rinse in hot water, then coat thickly
-with pure white lead rubbed thicker than
-cream in raw linseed oil. Set the larger
-fragment, break up, perpendicularly in the
-box of sand. It must stand plumb. Fit the
-other piece to it, and hang evenly across it
-the swinging weights, which are but a strip of
-strong cloth doubled up into pockets at each
-end and filled with buckshot or pebbles, which
-must balance accurately. Their use is to make
-the join firm and fine—in fact, barely visible.
-Leave standing several days, then file or sandpaper
-off surplus lead. Lead-mending is the
-most durable of all.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Mend thin china with white of egg and quicklime.
-Beat the egg stiff, coat clean edges
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>thickly with it, dust with powdered unslaked
-lime, press hard together at once, and fasten
-firmly. The lime sets as in mortar. Sandpaper
-the break after a week. This is a good
-cement for opaque glass as well.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Hollow things, as cups, bowls, etc., should be
-set over crumpled paper upon a round of cloth,
-with a drawstring in the edge just big enough to
-cover them halfway. Draw up the string very
-carefully after mending, and fasten. The secret
-of good mending is to have things held fast.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Rubber bands help mightily. String half
-a dozen strong ones on a tape and tie about
-the neck or base of anything so rounding strings
-slip. Join the broken part, then put another
-tape through the bands, and lift it steadily
-until you can fasten it about the neck or over
-the top. The bands must be the same size,
-and draw equally. After tying the tapes set
-a weight on top of the broken thing. Loop
-rubber bands around broken-off handles, set
-them in place, then string a tape through the
-bands, draw them together, and pass the tape
-twice around the body of the vessel.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>Build up shattered things bit by bit about
-cores of putty covered with wax paper. This
-if shape admits taking out the putty. Narrow-mouthed
-things had better have cores of absorbent
-cotton wound with wax paper. It can
-be picked out bit by bit, using a hook. Putty
-likewise can be dug or rasped out, but not so
-easily. Things very badly broken need to be
-mended in sections, joining scraps and fitting
-in splinters. Fill cavities outside and in with
-either soft putty or plaster mixed with white
-of egg. A backing of putty inside seams makes
-them secure. Keep clean fingers while mending.
-Also keep broken bits clean. If a mend
-fails, soak off cement and begin over. White
-lead must be taken off with turpentine. But
-failure with it is rare.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>If a handle-break goes through in a vase or
-ewer fit inside the hole a lump of putty, then
-cement edges, and press together, holding something
-against the putty and spreading it all
-over the break. Hard, it makes an indestructible
-join. Water will not affect it; still, such
-a vessel had better be kept for show.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span><b>Glass</b>: Mend glass as directed for china, but
-use white cement, gum arabic, or sugar syrup
-(see section Renovators). Press breaks hard
-together and fasten firmly. If it is possible to
-expel every bit of air, the break will be scarcely
-visible. For colored glass rub dry color smooth
-in a little white cement and apply with a very
-fine brush. Repair breaks in gilt glass, after
-mending, with gold paint. Do the same for
-gilt china, and touch up with matching colors
-any flaws in the pattern.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mending Bric-à-brac</b>: Mend broken ivory
-with a few drops of fish glue such as shoe-makers
-use. Press very hard together, wipe
-off oozings clean, fasten, wrap in cotton, then in
-paper, put in a vise and screw firmly but not
-too hard. Metal ornaments can be either soldered
-or repaired with sealing-wax and resin,
-melted together over boiling water and applied
-very hot. Join broken bisque and clay figures
-with white of egg and powdered unslaked lime
-unless it is possible to get from a potter a little
-regular luting. Mend torn or loosened leather
-with fish glue, and put under heavy weight.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span><b>Mending Books</b>: Take out of the covers,
-press square and solid, then paste over the
-back a strip of stout thin muslin, letting the
-edges project unpasted an inch either side.
-Dry under pressure, so the muslin will be fully
-rounded. Turn back the loose muslin accurately
-along the edge, paste it plentifully on the
-outer sides, then lay on the cover, press firmly
-in place, and dry under weight. When dry,
-paste in new fly leaves double fold. Paste the
-outer one to the cover, the inner one only
-lightly to the book. Removing old fly leaves
-spotted or defaced makes a better job of it.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mending Lamps and Candlesticks</b>:
-Fasten loose lamp collars with white of egg and
-plaster; make as thick as putty and use
-quickly. Solder broken metal parts. Dust
-with powdered resin, lay on the stick of
-solder, and apply the hot iron. Tinkering thus
-needs only a little knack. It enables you to
-stop leaks in zinc or tin—as pipes, shields, and
-so on. Cooking-vessels are quite another
-story.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mending Rubber</b>: This is a parlous business
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>at best, still can be done. Get the best
-rubber cement, have the break very clean,
-apply, and let harden for a day at least.
-Breaks in hose, tubes, and so on had better
-be cloth-covered—after mending, of course.
-Indeed, the life of such things is trebled by
-covering them neatly before they break. Cut
-strips of cloth wide enough to go round, allow
-half an inch for turned edges, fold down, and
-whip together around the hose or tube. A big
-pipe can have a cover of canvas stitched up.
-Covering protects the surface and takes up a
-large part of the water strain. Fill breaks in
-rubber footgear with rubber cement, let
-harden, then put inside over the break a piece
-of strong, thin cloth, shaped to fit and coated
-upon one side with fish glue. The glue goes
-next the rubber; after it has hardened it takes
-the strain.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Darning</b>: Darning is an art, so much so one
-may well say there are torn things not worth a
-darn. If they are woolen things, mend with
-rubber tissue, smoothing the tear with a warm
-iron, then laying on the tissue and fixing it
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>with a hotter one. Press again on the right
-side, and clip close any loose fibers.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Linen, Silk, and Stuff</b>: Lay under the
-break stiff paper spread with net matching in
-color, press with a warm iron, baste before
-lifting lightly, take up and baste again about
-the edges. Match thread to fabric; use a
-fine needle, go back and forth with very short
-running stitches, catching the net below, but
-taking only as deep hold in the outside as will
-make a firm mend. Beware puckers. When
-finished, cut away surplus net and press on the
-wrong side, then under a cloth on the right.
-If a tiny hole is to be filled in, tack it smooth
-over stiff paper, then with ravelings of the
-stuff or thread exactly matching go over the
-warp way, setting thread for thread, barely
-catching at the ends, then weave in cross
-threads, same as the original fabric, and press.
-Or the hole can be cut to a tiny square after
-basting on paper and a matched square inserted
-and darned in all round. This had better have
-net under it so the join may not pull apart.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Machine-darn table linen as soon as it shows
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>threadbare spots, putting them in an embroidery
-hoop and stitching back and forth the
-way of the missing threads. White net underneath
-strengthens, but with napkins and tea
-cloths it is better left off. A cloth broken along
-the middle fold can be darned thus over net.
-But it is easier and better to split it evenly, hem
-the split edges, and trim them with lace, then
-join the selvages with a row of coarse insertion,
-herringboned in with coarse linen thread.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Darning Stockings</b>: Children’s stockings
-last much longer for ripping to the calf when
-new and machine-darning inside them, over
-the knees, sound old tops. Sew up loosely.
-Darn strong net or thin stockinet loosely inside
-heels and toes; when the stockings come
-in holes, rip out this first application, cover your
-darning-egg with fresh net, set the hole over
-it, taking care not to stretch it, whip down all
-round loosely, then darn as usual, running
-threads through the net and cutting away
-surplusage when finished.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Silk stockings should always be darned on
-net, matching colors of net and darning-floss.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>Tack lace insets or embroidery smooth upon
-white stiff paper and fill in breaks with lace
-stitches or new embroidery. Mend a running
-break—colloquially, a ladder—by catching the
-errant stitch, sewing it fast, then filling the
-raveled space with very fine herringbone. Fill
-holes in the instep, or heel, above slipper
-height, with loose buttonhole stitches in
-matching silk, going across and back, catching
-each stitch after the first row in the top of the
-one below it. Make neither tight nor slack.
-Infinite patience and a very fine crochet hook
-enable one to fill such breaks with real stocking-weaving.
-Ravel the break to a line, take up
-the stitches on a very fine thread, then fasten
-on silk and draw up in loops, keeping them on
-the needle. Fasten to the side and work back,
-drawing a new stitch through each one already
-on the needle. Repeat till the hole is full, then
-draw stitches through those in the upper edge,
-which has been likewise raveled straight.
-Only very costly stockings are worth such
-pains.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Coarse Mending</b>: Boys and men wear holes
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>at knees, elbows, and on seats. Rip seams,
-cut the holes square, match new squares, and
-stitch, press, and sew up. Seat holes need not
-be cut clear across-only as far as the break.
-Cut corners diagonally the depth of a seam, but
-not too deep. Lacking cloth for such repairs,
-take note when clothes show threadbare in
-such spots, lay other cloth under, and machine-darn
-thickly with matching thread, fine rather
-than coarse. Such prevention often outlasts
-the patch cure besides being more presentable.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mending Bed Clothes</b>: Fine threadbare
-blankets are worth darning. Wash well and
-darn with soft wool, using a large-eyed needle.
-Avoid puckering. Darn warp way first, then
-go across. Cut ragged edges smooth, and overcast
-loosely with colored wool rather than bind.
-Darn tears on net, using silk or flax, rather fine.
-Beware making mends hard and lumpy.
-Comforts should be untacked, the stuffing,
-whether cotton, wool, or down, aired and
-washed at need, the outsides made into rags,
-and new covers provided for the padding.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>Cheesecloth unbleached lasts and launders
-well. Make pocket covers of it, half a yard
-deep, for the tops of comforts breaking there
-and nowhere else.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Old muslin rarely pays for mending more
-elaborate than running together slits. Wide
-sheets can have the thin centers torn out, the
-selvages joined, and raw edges hemmed, thus
-turning them into single-bed size. Handsome
-linen sheets, when they break along the hem-stitching,
-should be cut there, hemmed neatly
-each side, and joined with strong narrow linen
-insertion, or beading, or linen braid crocheted
-in a straight line down either side. Embroidered
-pillow and bolster cases, when the
-body wears, should have the embroidery cut
-off and joined thus with insertion or crochet
-work to new bodies—it will last as long.
-Handsome monograms and <i>motifs</i> should be
-transferred from old linen to new. Cut out,
-neatly baste on new stuff, and sew down all
-round with fine needle, thread, and stitches.
-If there are holes in the pattern, pierce them
-and sew over well, using slightly coarser thread.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>Press before sewing, and be careful not to
-draw the work.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mending Lace</b>: Transfer figures from heavy
-laces, such as hand-run Spanish, to new net
-grounds, first cleaning them carefully, and
-dipping, if rusty, in stale beer or water in
-which a raw Irish potato has been grated.
-Drain without squeezing, press while damp,
-then cut out and arrange upon the new ground,
-which has been stretched smooth over paper.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Point lace, being needle-made, can be needle-mended
-as good as new. Tack smooth upon
-waxed linen or stiff paper, study the breaks, and
-fill them with the same stitch, using the same
-thread. If the ground is badly broken, expedite
-work by laying under a bit of fine net, matching
-the mesh, and sewing the figures to it. Lace
-stitches can be learned from any book on
-needlework, and are none of them difficult.
-Irish crochet wears out all over commonly—tears
-or breaks, though, can be filled with a
-crochet hook, matching stitch and thread.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Mend lace curtains by laying new net under
-breaks and either sewing figures to it or, in case
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>of tender old fabrics, wetting with starch and
-pressing with a hot iron. The starch mend
-will last as long as the curtain. Tiny tears
-can be thus starch-mended to advantage at
-any stage.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Furniture</b>: Threadbare coverings, as damask,
-brocatelle, and tapestry, require deft
-darning with a fine needle—several fine needles,
-indeed, and matched silks. Follow the pattern
-as nearly as possible in putting in stitches.
-Put worn hangings into an embroidery frame
-and work boldly in coarse silks or wool, keeping
-to the color scheme and using as far as possible
-the woven pattern, but making the new figures
-hide blemishes. Remove linings before embroidering,
-press on the wrong side, and, if too
-limp, stiffen slightly with gum water (see section
-Renovators).</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Fur Sewing and Mending</b>: Fur sewing
-takes courage as much as skill. All fur is
-mended before making up. Art lies in cutting
-patches accurately and setting them in so the
-fur lies with that around it. To fill in a moth-eaten
-spot rip out linings and enough seams
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>to let the fur lie flat, then chalk-mark the
-smallest space that will remove the moth
-patch. Cut through along the mark with a
-sharp-pointed knife, then lay the hole upon
-the patch fur and shift until it matches in color
-and growth. Mark all round, take off the
-garment, cut the patch with your sharp knife
-just outside the marking. Fit into the hole,
-tack lightly in four places, turn, sew the cut
-edges together, taking stitches close and barely
-deep enough to hold. Turn every little while,
-smooth seam, and look for puckers; if any
-rip, sew over. Sewing done, press seam hard
-with the thimble on something flat, then turn
-and press on right side with the end of the
-thumb. Manipulate until the skin edges lie
-one against the other. Fur garments can be
-remodeled at home with just such sewing.
-Shape, piece, or mend, sew together, and reline.
-Very tiny bits can be used many ways, wherefore
-save them religiously. Tails that have
-been partly moth-eaten or lost hair should
-have the bare lengths cut out, the remnants
-neatly joined. Long furs, such as marten,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>mink, skunk, and fox, are not easier than seal,
-beaver, and so on, but less apt to show bungling
-work. Astrakan is so soft and crinkly it sews
-almost like cloth.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Carpets, Matting, and Rugs</b>: Make carpets
-as clean as possible before mending.
-Darn with wool and upholsterer’s needles as
-they lie on the floor, matching thread to pattern,
-unless the pattern is worn away. Cut bad
-spots square, or to straight edges, snip corners,
-turn under edges, fit in a square, turn down its
-edges, trimming at corners to avoid lumps,
-safety-pin at each corner, turn over and whip
-turned edges fast, then cover with damp cloth
-and press. Shift stair carpets often enough to
-get equal wear all over. Have an extra step
-length and turn it under at top or bottom to
-make shifting easy.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Dyeing helps a faded carpet mightily. Put
-it down clean with thick paper under, wipe over
-with clarified ox gall in tepid water, then with
-clear water, wringing the cloth dry, then paint
-with a thick soft brush dipped lightly in hot
-dye. Use the color predominant in the room,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>no matter about the pattern. Rub the dye in
-well, but do not slop nor sop it. Treat fine
-matting, especially in rug form, the same way.
-Figures will show through, but not unpleasantly.
-Even a grass rug takes color readily.
-Hang smooth and wet thoroughly, let stand
-to set, then wash with weak suds. Dye on
-both sides. Carpets and mattings must be
-dyed on one side only and washed lightly,
-after the color sets, with suds, then wiped over
-with either vinegar and water or weak alum
-water.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Rug-mending needs a volume; here it gets
-only a paragraph. For breaks, tears, moth-eaten
-or worn spots lay smooth upon something
-soft and sleazy—wool crash is excellent,
-so is basket-woven serge. Flannel will answer;
-at a pinch so will burlap. Fasten so thread
-runs true with those of the rug. If the original
-fabric shows appreciably, darn it down on the
-patch, matching the darning-wool to the colors.
-If there is a yawning hole, put the wool double
-in a very big needle, stick through from the top,
-bring up again in almost the same place.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>Tie to the end above, stick back, stick up
-again, repeat, varying thread, until the whole
-space is covered with woolly loops. Cut them
-through, then trim smooth with very sharp
-shears, comb with a coarse comb, and trim
-again. Moth-eaten moquette carpet can be
-treated the same way, using as many needles as
-there are colors in the pattern.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Care of Gloves</b>: Pull off gloves over the
-hand, not by tugging at finger tips; this is
-the first commandment. The second is, Never
-crumple them. Let lie open from the hand
-until dry, then smooth, wrap in tissue paper,
-and put away. Sew fastenings the minute
-they show loose. Mend at the first ripped
-stitch. Glove powder shaken inside before
-putting away after wearing keeps them fresher.
-Either patch holes in thumb and fingers with
-very thin kid, else cut off the worn sections
-almost to the palm, shape new sections from
-old kid, sew on, then sew in. Color gray spots
-on the fingers of black kid gloves with a few
-drops of ink rubbed well through other drops
-of sweet oil. In cleaning with gasolene put on
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>gloves, fasten smooth, and begin work at the
-top of the wrist—there will be circles otherwise,
-especially in long gloves. Wash as
-though washing hands, using a very soft cloth
-or wisp of cotton. Change gasolene as soon
-as dirty. Rub afterward well with starch and
-whiting, powdered.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cleaning Furs</b>: Brush well, comb twice—against
-grain and with it—wipe over with soft
-flannel, then with a wisp of cotton tied in old
-silk and dipped lightly in gasolene or benzine
-or ether. Ether is best for white furs. Work
-quickly, changing the cloth if it grows dirty.
-Comb up again, and sift over hot cornmeal or
-sifted sawdust, rub it well through the fur, up,
-down, crosswise, shake out, and hang to air.
-White furs after shaking out should be covered
-thick with starch and whiting in fine powder,
-mixed with enough powder blue to clear. Let
-lie several days, then shake out, brush hard,
-and wipe over very quickly with a soft damp
-cloth. Dry-clean light and fancy linings by
-gentle, steady rubbing with a swab of starch
-and whiting tied in soft silk or cheesecloth.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>Put a few drops of ether or gasolene on soiled
-spots, rub hard with the swab, then with a
-clean cloth, dipped in powdered chalk.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Furs worn in dusty wind or a foul atmosphere
-need to be well combed, brushed against
-the grain, and aired quickly. Dry wet furs in
-air, but away from heat. Stretch and knead
-them several times while drying to keep the
-skin pliable. Shake hard at first, hang smooth,
-and let drain. Unless very wet, only dampness
-will reach the skin if they are so treated.
-Snow shaken off before melting is a help rather
-than a hurt. Indeed, a good way to clean fur
-rugs is to drag them, hair down, over dry snow.
-Clean on the floor by sprinkling thickly with
-hot meal or sawdust, rubbing in well and brushing
-out, then combing.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>VI<br /> <br />MAKING AND MAKING OVER</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class='c013'>Wherewithal to make of is the first requisite.
-Here follow some simple tests easily applicable
-and well worth while. Use upon samples, and
-buy accordingly. Things over-cheap, it may
-be said in passing, carry their condemnation
-in their price. Buying them is extravagance,
-since they cost as much in time, trouble, and
-often in money for making up as sound stuffs
-and make no adequate return in wear.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Silk</b>: Test silk three ways—by tearing,
-scraping with the thumb nail, and burning.
-Try to tear a raw edge across the filling. If
-it is easily done the filling is either artificial
-or so loaded it will give no wear. Weak warp
-is even worse—with warp and filling both
-easily rent, the stuff is wholly bad. Pull out
-a few threads both ways and test their strength
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>separately. Easy breaking means that they
-are loaded with earthy or metal salts to give
-weight and firmness without wear. Scrape
-the surface diagonally with the thumb nail.
-If threads slip under the scraping, let that
-particular silk alone. Rub well between the
-fingers—pure silk feels smooth and soft; that
-which is loaded, crisp, even harsh. Some silks
-have the face pure, the back loaded—wherefore
-test both sides. End by burning a bit.
-Real silk does not burn readily, and leaves a
-black ash. Weighted or loaded silk flashes
-up, burns swiftly, and leaves behind a dull-red
-ash.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Woolens</b>: Test by raveling out and burning.
-Untwist a raveled thread—fibers of even,
-moderate length show pure wool. If there are
-a few fibers with clots all along them the cloth
-is most shoddy—that is to say, old wool
-ground up and mixed before spinning with a
-little new. After-treatment makes it look well,
-but there is mighty little wear. Snap a raveling
-between the hands—the harder the breaking
-the better the goods. Soak a few threads
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>in a little alcohol. This to test the color. A
-tinge in the alcohol is to be expected, but if it
-becomes deep-colored, and especially if it becomes
-muddy, the dyeing is bad. Cotton mixture
-before spinning betrays itself in burning.
-Light a few threads or a snippet—the smell will
-tell the truth.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Linen</b>: Test linen in much the same fashion:
-ravel, untwist a thread, and draw gently
-till resolved into original fibers. Cotton will
-show soft, even a little fuzzy, in spite of mercerizing.
-Linen is woven from flax fibers,
-which are always straight and thready, no matter
-how fine. Burning gives out the smell of
-cotton where there is an appreciable mixture.
-Test for fading by wetting in white soapsuds
-and drying in sunshine or in front of a fire.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cottons</b>: Prints, muslin, lawns, sheeting, and
-so on, should be torn across and lengthwise to
-test strength, nail-scraped, and rubbed betwixt
-the fingers to discover if they are dressed too
-much, and dried in sunshine for fading. Use
-will soften the fastest colors. In buying for
-children get extra stuff and send it to wash each
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>time with the frocks, so when needed for re-making
-there shall be no glaring contrast.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Forethought:</b> Begin before the beginning if
-you would sew easily. Set a machine, well
-cleaned and oiled, where the light will fall over
-the operator’s shoulder. For dressmaking,
-cover the floor with a sheet of unbleached
-muslin tacked down smooth. Have a form for
-fitting, a tall mirror, a table, with drop leaves
-if possible, and two bentwood chairs, with a low
-rocker for basting and pressing in. At the
-right hand of it hang on the wall a thin board
-with wire nails driven from the back in treble
-row. Upon one row stick basting-spools, upon
-others spools of silk, cotton, and twist. Upon
-a shorter upper row put cheap thimbles. Have
-screw hooks at bottom for hanging shears, small
-scissors, tape measure, pencil, and needle book.
-A screw eye in each upper corner of the board
-slipped over nails or screw-hooks will hold it
-fast.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Hang a similar board on the wall back of the
-machine, and furnish the nails in it with spools
-of thread—all sorts the machine may require.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>Put a hook at bottom for special machine
-scissors, and hang upon another hook a small,
-flat, open pocket to hold wisps of absorbent
-cotton for wiping off oil, a tiny bottle of alcohol
-for removing spots of it, and a couple of
-finger stalls and two short bandages to save
-pricked fingers from making blood spots. A
-starch bag, very porous, for covering such spots
-instantly, is also advisable with fine light-colored
-work.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Tack against the wall over the table a square
-of denim holding three long pockets, set crosswise,
-for patterns. Keep patterns folded flat,
-not rolled. Press smooth before using, and let
-lie till cool, so they will not curl. Hang a
-small well-filled pincushion below the pattern
-pockets, also leaves of flannel filled with
-basting-needles. Set close by a firm-standing
-waste basket with a wide mouth. Throw into
-it all useless clippings as fast as made.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cutting Out:</b> Spread plain-surfaced things,
-as silk, linen, serge, and lighter woolens, double
-upon the table, which must be at full length.
-Lay on patterns, having regard to warp and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>woof threads. Let warp run up and down,
-woof around. In cutting a bodice the woof
-threads should make a sort of belt. Thus
-they pull true, and the seams are an easy bias.
-Lay on the whole pattern as nearly as space
-allows, and study economy of material in
-arranging the pieces, but not at the cost of
-getting threads wrong. Cut with sharp shears,
-taking care to allow for seams when requisite.
-Lay off pieces as cut out, but keep the cloth
-steady by means of light weights. Patterns
-are best pinned in place, but with long lines,
-as skirts or draperies, books laid on as weights
-are better, besides being easier.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Things with a nap, as broadcloth and corduroy,
-must not be cut with cloth double from
-each end. If the goods is double-fold, cutting
-double is desirable. Otherwise cut so the nap
-runs the same in each piece. This also applies
-in case of figured stuffs with a decided up and
-down. To make a waist or coat pattern
-smaller lay a crosswise plait from armhole to
-edge, and cross it with a lengthwise one of
-equal width. Enlarge a pattern by cutting
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>it across instead of plaiting it and pasting in
-strips of paper. Alter skirt lengths usually at
-the bottom; either fold up or allow extra. If
-too wide, fold down along each edge to keep
-proportions.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Basting:</b> Baste shoulder seams with the
-upper half of the fronts stretched tight, the
-back held a little full. Pressing heals the
-puckers, which give the smooth fit over the
-hollow of the shoulder not otherwise attainable.
-Use fine firm thread for basting, with
-a large-eyed needle. Take medium running
-stitches in seams to be fitted; with edges to be
-held for sewing together make the stitches
-very long, and set them so far back the stitching
-will not catch them.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Pressing:</b> Have a small board covered with
-flannel, then with muslin, for pressing. An
-alcohol stove for heating irons saves time and
-trouble. Keep it with the iron inside a handy
-box, upon which it can be set when lighted.
-Do not damp woolen things before pressing.
-Moisten silk very slightly, linen rather more,
-and cotton, as in linings, most of all. Press
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>rounding seams, such as armholes and rolling
-collars, over the end of the board. Press sleeve
-seams with the small end of the board inside.
-Sew up and press outer sleeve seams before
-sewing inner ones. Do the same with very tiny
-trousers. Where pressing must be done on the
-right side cover with a thin cloth very slightly
-dampened.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Things Applied:</b> Lace, insertion, <i>motifs</i>, and
-so on, need to be set on the cloth and sewed
-firmly in place, then to have the cloth cut out
-underneath. Turn cut edges back and stitch
-or sew again. Ribbon trimmings, unless gathered,
-are best put on by hand, with very long
-stitches on the wrong side, very short ones on
-top. Bands or borders applied as hems
-should be sewed on to the edge, turned over it,
-not flat with it, then basted down and stitched
-at the upper edges. Hold true in sewing on—a
-pucker or stretching ruins the fit. Miter
-corners very neatly, and stitch upon the wrong
-side. In putting in a fold or piping baste
-with the double edge even with the edge of the
-garment, or the band, then turn over and baste
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>before stitching. Hold lace a little full on
-rounding edges so it shall not hoop nor draw.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Make fancy yokes, put on the collar, then
-arrange smoothly on the form, put over the
-bodice, fit together, and set a thick row of pins
-where they are to join. If the bodice edge is
-finished, pin together—if it is to be sewn in,
-leave it free. An overlapping yoke had better
-have the bodice cut almost full height, and the
-surplus cut away after the yoke is put on.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Making Over:</b> Begin making over by refurbishing—cleaning,
-dyeing, pressing, turning.
-Rip, pick out stitches, take out spots,
-and brush.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Dyeing:</b> Dyeing is easy. Use cotton or
-woolen dyes according to need. But first
-wash stuffs very clean. Discharge color by
-soaking several hours in suds, or cream-of-tartar
-solution, boiling half an hour in clear
-water, and dye while still hot. Have a roomy
-dye pot, drop into it all parts of a garment at
-once to make the new color uniform. Have the
-stuff loosely crumpled, stir down instantly with
-a clean wooden stick. Lift after a minute to
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>air, stir down again, and finish according to
-directions. Each dye has its own special
-limitations. Knitted woolens, as sweaters,
-caps, and so on, must not be soaked nor
-boiled, only washed quickly, covered with
-clear hot water, let stand a minute, then
-squeezed out and put into the pot. Silk
-should not be washed unless very dirty; clean
-with gasolene instead, but wet with clear hot
-water before dyeing. If it loses body after
-washing, dip into stale beer or weak gum water
-(see section Renovators) or else stiffen with weak
-sugar water, and iron while damp. A black
-kid glove cut up and boiled in a gallon of water
-till reduced one-half makes a good stiffener
-for black silk, also for mixtures of silk and wool.
-This, whether they are dyed or merely washed.
-So does stale beer.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Tack lace to strips of cloth before dyeing and
-leave on them till washed and pressed. Dyed
-net had better be partly dried in crumpled
-heaps after washing, then stiffened and pressed.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Gasolene-cleaning</b>: Take out spots (see section
-Spots), then plunge in a clean vessel, pour
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>on gasolene to cover, wash quickly, laving
-rather than rubbing or wringing. Change to
-clean gasolene, wash again, then hang to air
-at least ten hours. This must be done away
-from fire or light. Press on the wrong side, and
-roll around a rod or mailing-tube instead of
-folding.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Washing Silk and Cloth</b>: Tack, matching
-pieces together, right sides in, wash double in
-warm white soapsuds, rinse twice, keeping
-temperature even, and hang to dry without
-wringing. Take down when damp, and iron
-double, going first over one side, then the other.
-Stiffen by wiping over ahead of the iron with
-stale beer, glove liquor, or cold coffee or weak
-tea, for silk; with very thin starch or gum
-water for woolens. Roll after pressing. Iron
-cloth the way of the nap, not across it. Figured
-silk and brocade should be ironed on a soft
-board.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Freshening Lace</b>: A bath in stale beer with
-draining afterward freshens rusty black lace,
-also stiffens it. It must be pressed when
-barely damp. Clean cream and light laces in
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>gasolene, using a very little white soap if they
-are much soiled. Hang to air smooth—pressing
-hurts the look. Lying in powdered starch
-and magnesia for a week will often freshen
-laces. Mend them before cleaning (see section
-Making Whole). Shake free of powder—dust
-and grime will go with it—and smooth by laying
-back and forth between the leaves of a big
-book and putting on weight.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Trimmings</b>: Clean ribbons, braids, galloons,
-and fringes in a bath of gasolene, changing at
-need, hang smooth to air, then press under
-weights, else roll inside a damp cloth for an
-hour, then press on the wrong side with a warm
-(not hot) iron. Wind braid about spools or
-tubes, and leave a day and night. Comb out
-fringes and wind around cardboard. In dyeing
-fringe fold compactly and sew inside a thin
-bag, then dye as usual. The bag prevents the
-fringe proper from matting.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>As to Turning</b>: Things worn threadbare
-had better be turned, either with or without
-dyeing. Darn the threadbare spots, loosely
-and sparsely, press—on the right side, of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>course. Press all over, then take stock of
-needs and materials. Make the most of every
-clothes opportunity.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Freshening Velvet</b>: Raise the pile of
-crushed velvet by stretching over a wet cloth
-laid on the face of a very hot iron and brushing
-hard while the steam rises. This answers for
-spots and streaks—with a crushed surface or
-one so faded dyeing will help it, make into
-panne velvet by pressing on the right side
-while damp, laying the pile all one way.
-Velveteen and cotton-backed velvet dye poorly.
-Brush well, tack on a board, and paint with
-hot dye, using a soft brush. Let stand in air
-to set, then wash with a cloth and soapsuds,
-followed by rinsing. Press on the right side
-while still damp. This gives a surface passable
-for school hats or caps, or yokes and cuffs on
-made-over frocks.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Save the Pieces</b>: In cutting down men’s
-clothes use the worn parts to interline smaller
-new garments. Use the very best for the
-outside, even though it necessitates piecing.
-Match threads and figures exactly, sew fast,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>and press hard, then piecing hardly shows. Do
-it before cutting out. With sleazy stuff whip
-over edges before sewing together. Avoid
-putting pieced seams where there will be constant
-pressure.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Adaptation</b>: A jacket or coat worn along
-seams may be made to serve beautifully for a
-much smaller person by simply ripping all
-seams, trimming, and sewing again. Lengthen
-skirts outgrown by insets of embroidery or contrasting
-color. Make the waist to match,
-either with an inset or a deep girdle. Aim to
-make all changes so they shall look voluntary,
-not makeshift. In handing down outgrown
-garments be merciful enough to change them
-so the new possessor shall not be taunted for
-wearing. This is not hard; a new yoke, belt,
-and cuffs will transfigure a garment, to say
-nothing of the magic wrought by dyeing.
-Cut, fit, and finish madeovers quite as carefully
-as new things. Change trimmings—for
-moral and esthetic effect. Make several dyeings—it
-is piteous to see a whole family
-touched up with navy blue or wine-red or pink.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>Dyes are so cheap, dyeing so easy, give yourself
-the satisfaction of variety. If combining
-materials, dye them one after the other, the
-heaviest first. It is likely to be deepest. Use
-the lighter tint according to quantity and
-taste for foundation or accessories. Remember
-two good garments, or even one, will do
-more good than several skimped and spoiled.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Millinery</b>: Steam hats of fancy braid soft,
-unpick, steam again, sew while soft, shape, and
-wire. To change color, paint over with dye,
-let dry thoroughly, then wipe over with a
-cloth wet in alcohol to remove surplus color.
-Or wash quickly with white soapsuds, drying
-in sunlight; or wipe over with alum water.
-None of these are necessary if the color does
-not rub off. Or veil with net, chiffon, lace,
-or grenadine. Cord the brim edge with silk or
-velvet, and shir the thin stuff inside. Shape
-by bending while still damp. Trim according
-to taste and fashion. Hats of beaver can be
-steamed a very little, then pressed over an
-improvised block—a fruit jar inverted, a
-crock, a tin pan, or bucket. Cover with a
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>damp cloth while pressing. Begin on something
-of little value, learning by experience.
-Hats of velvet or silk or lace must be unpicked,
-freshened, and made up anew, using new
-shapes. Lingerie hats require simply washing
-and reshaping over clean frames with fresh or
-freshened ribbons.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Restore ribbon and velvet as already directed.
-To improve crushed and faded flowers
-touch the backs of the petals thickly with gum
-arabic (see section Renovators), let dry, then dip
-in gasolene, lave quickly, and pass on into more
-gasolene which has had a tube of oil color dissolved
-in it. Work quickly, moving the flower
-sprays about so they shall not be blotched nor
-streaked. Lay on soft paper to dry in airy
-shade. Big flowers—roses, orchids, poppies—had
-better be separated before dyeing, then remounted.
-Touching up the hearts with oil
-color rubbed smooth in a little poppy oil, using
-a camel’s-hair brush, is a further improvement.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Stiff fancy feathers can be dyed, not by dipping,
-but painting with hot dye, and taking off
-the surplus by brushing hard when dry with
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>corn starch and prepared chalk in fine powder.
-Touch mounting very lightly—they are founded
-on glue. If ill-colored, conceal them with
-<i>choux</i> of ribbon or velvet or a made ornament.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Fine feathers should go to professionals—at
-least, until their owners learn to color cheap
-ones. Draggled soft feathers may be colored
-with gasolene and tube paint, shaking hard
-while they dry so there shall be no clotting.
-Strip off when dry, and tie the flues into pompons
-about lengths of stiff wire with loops in
-the end. Wind the wire with silk thread or
-cover with a spiral of tissue paper. Two or
-three shades of the same color tied thus make
-a handsome ornament for any school hat.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Clean white and light plumes by sprinkling
-very lightly with gasolene, then burying a week
-in corn starch and magnesia. Shake out the
-powder, beat the plumes steadily but gently
-against the palm, then comb very gently with
-a coarse clean comb, and hold in the steam of
-a kettle. Curl, if you like, by drawing the
-flues, a few at a time, over the edge of a blunt
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>knife, taking care to draw so steadily there is no
-breaking.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ornaments</b>: Mark what you wish—buckle,
-butterfly, star, crescent, dagger, or quill—accurately
-upon rather fine buckram, sew fine
-wire over the outlines, then cut out neatly.
-Cover with silk or velvet. Make a butterfly
-body of velvet very slightly padded with wings
-of silk. Sew firm, turning stuff well over
-edges, then sew on beads, any sort you like.
-Make them imitate butterfly markings, cover a
-quill as though flues, fill star surfaces completely,
-but simply edge crescents and buckles.
-After edging put inside bigger beads, of contrasting
-color. The beading done, cover the
-whole under side neatly with soft thin silk or
-net. Quills need a stout center wire. Crystal,
-with a tip of gold beads or silver and bronze
-or jet with silver and rhinestones, deftly managed
-make effective ornaments.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>VII<br /> <br />REMEDYING SPOTS, STAINS, AND TARNISH</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Grease Spots in Wood</b>: Scour unpainted
-wood with clean sand after pouring strong lye
-upon the grease spot. If it is very obstinate,
-cover with a paste of prepared chalk, corn
-starch, and whiting wet with ammonia, let
-stand two days, and scour. Grease stays
-on varnished surfaces; wash it off with warm
-borax soapsuds and follow, after wiping dry,
-by a hard rubbing with alcohol and turpentine
-mixed. Machine oil must be taken out with
-either gasolene or alcohol, then scoured with
-cold suds—heat sets it.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Dust greasy walls thickly with powdered
-chalk or whiting, brush off after a day, and
-repeat. For a small but staring spot lay chalk
-thickly between net, hold it flat against the
-spot, with a very hot iron over it. Commonly
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>this will take up the grease. Chalk or whiting
-wet with alcohol to a thin paste and left to dry
-on grease spots, then gently brushed off, will remove
-grease. But with paper badly spotted it
-is best to take it off and put on a fresh length.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Machine oil on garments old or new must be
-taken out with gasolene, else washed in white
-soap and cold water. If spots are black as
-well as greasy, lay them face down upon a
-thick cloth and pour alcohol or gasolene through,
-not rubbing the spot proper, but sawing it back
-and forth against the cloth underneath—thus
-the black is not imbedded in the fabric. Lay
-thin things spotted face down and dab hard
-repeatedly with a swab of cotton tied in net and
-wet with gasolene. Move the spots to clean
-surfaces, and swab till clean. Lay silk and
-gauze, especially delicately colored ones, over
-a layer of calcined magnesia mixed with corn
-starch, and pour through either grain alcohol
-or chloroform. Wet very lightly a ring around
-the spot of unspotted fabric and work from it inward
-to the spot. This to save annoying circles.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Take grease out of woolens with a flood of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>gasolene, changing it as it grows dirty. If
-caked dirt shows afterward, wash with naphtha
-soap, applying lather to the spot, holding a very
-hot iron a little way from it for a minute, then
-washing off with hot water. Instead of the
-iron you may hold the spot to the spout of a
-boiling kettle, letting the steam penetrate it.
-Greasy coat collars and heavy garments
-blotched with spilled food demand washing in
-suds besides the washing in gasolene.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>For a greasy carpet mix whiting and cornmeal,
-make hot, sift on thickly, cover with
-gasolene, and rub hard and quickly until the
-gasolene evaporates, then sweep very clean and
-wipe with a damp cloth. If gasolene involves fire
-risks, leave the powder standing for several days,
-sweep off, and repeat if the grease is not all gone.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Axle-grease spots or any other partly resinous
-must be softened with oil, then taken out
-with gasolene or turpentine. Washing, even
-boiling, sets them. It is the same with linseed-oil
-spots. Take them out with turpentine
-followed by gasolene.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Road Stains</b>, whether from mud, asphalt,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>tar, oil dirt, or oil proper, are as easy to get as
-they are hard to get rid of. Let mud cakes
-and flakes severely alone until dry—wiping
-while wet smears them and gives a firmer hold
-on the fabric underneath. A soft semi-fluid
-mud, if it can be dipped almost instantly in
-clear water, laved without touching, then have
-water poured through from the back, will be
-apt not to leave a mark—so wash whenever
-such washing is possible. Where it is impossible,
-hold the stained surface mud side down
-until dry, then rub and brush well before attempting
-to get rid of the mark. Stiff mud
-left to dry undisturbed will come away leaving
-but a faint mark. If it is clay mud, pour boiling
-water through it from the wrong side in a
-steady stream for at least a minute. Wet as
-small a space as possible, stretch it smooth, let
-dry, brush or rub with coarse velvet, cover with
-a cream of French chalk, starch, and alcohol,
-let dry, and brush off; commonly the stain
-goes with it. This for silk or wool. Wash
-fabrics need only to be well laundered after
-the boiling-water treatment.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>Grimy mud needs to be well wet with kerosene,
-let stand an hour, then cleaned with
-either alcohol or gasolene. Gasolene or benzine
-will also take out spots of tar and asphalt, but
-they come away quicker and cleaner if first wet
-with turpentine, then greased on both sides
-with soft lard, and let stand a while. Dip in
-the gasolene, soiled side out, and change the
-gasolene as soon as it looks dark. Bold big
-stains may demand three changes. After the
-stain is out spread the fabric smooth and wipe
-all round the gasolened space with a cloth
-dipped in more gasolene to prevent circles.
-Soften oil marks or those from oily dirt by
-wetting thoroughly with kerosene, washing out
-later in gasolene as directed for tar. Very fine
-things can be cleaned with ether or alcohol instead
-of gasolene, pouring through the spot and
-rubbing with a wisp of cotton.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Take grease from paper, as books or prints,
-by laying on thickly powdered borax and
-calcined magnesia, and keeping warm for
-several days. Shut books tight upon the
-powder and put under moderate weight. Or
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>iron over the powder with a very hot iron,
-shake off, apply fresh, and tie or put under
-weight. A tender old print, much soiled,
-should be pasted on a thin cloth and cleaned
-with a damp, soapy cloth, then, after drying,
-covered both sides with chalk, left several days,
-then shaken out and ironed on the wrong side,
-with the right against a soft clean cloth. Mitigate
-grease on leather bindings with the chalk
-pad and hot iron—it is rarely wholly removable.
-Plain calf admits of gasolene, but for
-anything else dry-cleaning alone is safe.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Paint and Varnish</b>: Soak hardened metallic
-paint in turpentine till softened, then remove
-with gasolene, alcohol, or chloroform. Chloroform
-is the thing for fine fabrics of delicate
-colors. Use alcohol on white stuff, swabbing
-with an upward motion. Varnish requires
-little beyond the turpentine treatment. Earth
-paints and calcimine demand washing in soapsuds
-to get rid of the color. Remove paint
-from floors or windows with strong hot soda
-water or else a cloth well wet in turpentine.
-Gasolene will likewise remove it, but is more
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>apt to smear. Plate glass or fine mirrors
-should be polished with whiting and alcohol
-after the spots have been removed. Wet to a
-cream, rub on, let stand awhile, then rub off
-with clean cloths.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ice-cream and Gelatine</b>: Such spots must
-be soaked in clear cold water for at least an
-hour. If on garments that forbid soaking, lay
-the spot upon a folded damp cloth, put another
-over it, and press with moderate weight for an
-hour. Then wipe off on both sides with borax
-water, weak and cold, followed by several
-rinsings in clear cold water. Shift the spot
-to a clean place now and then. When clean
-pin it smooth between thick clothes and
-press dry with a moderate iron. Wash fabrics,
-of course, can be laundered after soaking.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Fruit Stains</b>: Soak fresh fruit stains half
-an hour in cold water, then pour boiling water
-through them and dry quickly. If they have
-been set by soap and boiling, touch them with
-Javelle water (see section Renovators), washing
-it out quickly. Use only on white things—it
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>takes out color as well as stains. Some stains
-on colored things can be taken out harmlessly
-by covering with salt and vinegar and leaving
-two hours in the sun. Tomato juice and salt
-in sunshine is another prescription—with a
-bright tin underneath. An apple cut in half
-and laid under a set stain in sunshine is likewise
-effectual. Take care, though, to wash
-the material well in cold water so there may
-not be a fresh apple stain.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Ammonia removes acid discolorations; it
-also mitigates perspiration marks. Use the
-spirits, and follow with alcohol and water,
-dabbed on lightly.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Wine Stains</b>: Wet wine stains with alcohol
-or whisky and soak an hour in cold water, else
-pour boiling water through them with the
-fabric held taut, and dry before laundering.
-This for table linen. Stained silk or cloth must
-be dabbed many times with tepid water, pressing
-with dry cloths between dabbings. Do not
-make wet enough to leave circles. Shake
-finely powdered chalk on thickly when the
-dabbing is done, let it lie for a day, then brush
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>off, and if a mark remains dab with alcohol and
-water, blood warm, or hold the stain with the
-wrong side next a steaming spout, wiping it off
-well as soon as it is damp.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ink Stains</b>: If ink is spilled on a carpet,
-take up every bit possible with warm, damp
-cloths, letting them lie to absorb it. Follow
-with cloths wet in cold, sweet milk, rubbing
-and dabbing vigorously. Wash afterward
-with clear hot water, then sift on, while damp,
-cornmeal or dry sawdust and let stand a day,
-brush off, and wipe the spot over with alcohol.
-Lacking cloths, crumpled paper, newspaper, or
-blotting-paper can be used to take up the ink.
-Never wipe it, and take up about the edges
-first, to save spreading.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Take stains from wood with oxalic-acid
-solution (see section Renovators). Reduce one-half
-with boiling water, wet the stain, wipe off
-with clear, hot water; if stain remains, repeat
-the acid. Use the acid on white things ink-stained,
-wetting them first with boiling water
-and holding the stain in steam or close to a
-very hot iron for a minute or two after dipping
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>in the acid. Wash out the acid with clear
-water, as hot as can be borne.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Take ink stains from paper by laying it on a
-thick cloth, putting on a drop or two of acid,
-covering with another cloth, and pressing with
-a hot iron. Remove to a clean, wet cloth,
-cover, and press again.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Oxalic acid must not be used full strength
-on silk or woolens. Weaken two-thirds with
-boiling water, and pour boiling water through
-the stain after wetting with the acid. Test
-the color; if the acid destroys it, try either
-covering the stain with a paste of French chalk
-and alcohol, letting dry and brushing off, or
-dropping blazing tallow through from the
-wrong side, and later removing it with gasolene
-or chloroform, the same as an ordinary
-grease mark. The tallow must be left
-on several days so it may combine with the
-ink.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Tar and Asphalt</b>: Rub tar spots with soft
-grease, let lie, and remove with gasolene or by
-washing in hot suds. Asphalt should be well
-wet with kerosene, left to stand, then washed
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>out in turpentine or alcohol. Soap sets it hopelessly
-if applied at first.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Grass Stains</b>: Rub molasses well into the
-stains, let lie overnight, then wash out with
-tepid water, repeating if the stain still shows.
-If a brown mark is left, wet with weak chloride
-of lime water (see section Renovators) and
-hang in hot sunshine or close to a fire.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Iron Rust</b>: Take out with oxalic acid the
-same as ink stains. Else cover thickly with
-salt after wetting in boiling water, lay in sunshine
-over bright tin, and squeeze on lemon
-juice or that of a ripe tomato. Wash out in
-hot water, repeating if necessary.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mildew</b>: Wet with boiling water, wring dry,
-then dip in sour milk, lay in sun, and cover
-thickly with salt. Or beat a raw, ripe apple
-to a pulp, mix with salt liberally, and spread on
-the spots in the sun. Salt and lemon, salt
-and tomato, or oxalic acid will likewise remove
-mildew. The advantage of fruit processes is
-that they do no harm to the fabric, which the
-oxalic acid weakens somewhat, no matter how
-carefully used. Very fine and choice mildewed
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>fabrics should be covered with a paste of sifted
-starch and laid on the grass in sunshine.
-Wash off paste and repeat till mildew disappears.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Wax Spots</b>: Soften, dip in warm oil, let lie
-an hour, keeping warm, wash in turpentine,
-then in alcohol or gasolene.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Perspiration Marks</b>: Try dry-cleaning,
-sifting upon them over and over and over corn
-starch, magnesia, and French chalk. Rub
-lightly after each sifting. If the mark remains,
-try ether. Make a swab of soft white silk
-filled with the powder, pour on the ether a
-little at a time, and dab the swab. Put a drop
-or so of ammonia spirit upon the swab—not
-enough to change colors. If ether fails, deluge
-with chloroform, rubbing inward hard until it
-evaporates. Such marks are the problem of
-amateur cleaning—the hardest of all to remove.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Smoke Stains</b>: Shave half a bar of soap
-into a cup of boiling water, dissolve, add a cup
-of turpentine, a cup of kerosene, and a half cup
-of ammonia spirit. Mix, and cover close.
-Spread on the stain, let stand five minutes,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>then rub hard with the lead swab (see section
-Equipment) and wash off with hot water and
-a thick cloth. If the stain is on plaster, as
-around a grate, use a brush instead of the swab,
-which is, for stone, brick, or marble, a sovereign
-thing.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Care of Iron</b>: Rust is the bane of iron;
-grease, its salvation. Coat anything not in
-use well with hot tallow, and shake over it, still
-hot, either fine sifted wood ashes or powdered
-unslaked lime. Wrap in clean newspaper and
-keep dry. When wanted, brush hard with a
-stiff brush; there will be a beautiful surface.
-Anything pitted with rust may as well be
-thrown away. A merely rusty surface must
-be greased with clear fat, left standing two
-days, wiped, washed in clear, very hot water,
-and greased again. Three greasings should
-bring it into condition for polishing. Wipe
-dry, coat with oil, shake on lime, and brush off
-after twenty-four hours. Any alkali without
-grease predisposes iron to rust. Eschew soap
-and soda in cleaning it. Use gasolene or turpentine
-or even kerosene. A cloth wet in
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>either will take off smut. Polish with crumpled
-newspaper and a handful of hot sawdust.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Brass and Copper</b>: Remove tarnish from
-brass and copper with salt and strong vinegar
-or oxalic acid (see section Renovators). Rub
-hard till bright all over, wash in clear, very
-hot water, then while still hot polish with a
-clean chamois skin dipped in sweet oil, and a
-pinch of either whiting or very fine sand.
-Rub quickly, wipe with soft paper, heat
-moderately, and set away. This gives the
-mellow old look. Copper cooking-vessels must
-be scoured inside and out, first with the salt
-and vinegar, then with soap and sand. A
-greasy cloth rubbed over the outside protects
-them without being dangerous. If stains are
-deep enough to demand oxalic acid, be sure to
-wash afterward with boiling water and borax.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bronze</b>: Wash bronze with a soft brush in
-hot, weak borax water, dry quickly, keep
-warm, and rub all over with a clean cloth wet
-in turpentine with the barest suspicion of wax.
-It must not coat the metal, hardly even film it.
-Make bone-dry before setting away.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span><b>Pewter</b>: Remove spots with a swab of
-whiting lightly dipped in oil. Wash in weak
-suds, rinse well with boiling water, dry, and
-polish with hot sand and a stiff brush.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Silver Tarnish</b>: Tarnish, like a bad habit,
-must be checked in the beginning. Prevention
-is better than cure. Keep big things, when
-not in use, well wrapped in wax paper with blue
-paper outside that, and absorbent cotton added.
-Put inside canton-flannel bags, tie tight, and
-keep dark and dry. Watch all things not thus
-ambushed closely. Remove spots as soon as
-visible, either with salt and whiting wet with
-borax water or ammonia and French chalk.
-Rub hard and quickly, wash off, wipe dry, and
-polish with dry whiting or plate powder, or
-what you will. Treat egg-stained spoons with
-wet salt. Fortnightly at least wash every bit
-of silver in sight in warm borax soapsuds, rinse
-in boiling water, dry with clean towels, and rub
-lightly with sifted whiting. Cover chasings
-and engraving with wet whiting, let dry, and
-brush it off. For things in high relief fold
-chamois skin over the point of a blunt skewer—thus
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>you can rub the deeps. Count at each
-washing and keep sets together. Upon a damp
-cleaning day lay a trayful of small things in a
-half-warm oven, letting them stay till hot and
-dry.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Clean toilet silver with oxalic acid of one-third
-strength, taking care to touch with it
-nothing but the metal. Wipe with a cloth
-wrung very dry out of hot water, and polish
-with a chamois dipped in alcohol and whiting.
-Wrap a cloth about the bristles in cleaning
-brush backs, and wipe with old silk after the
-polishing.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Things Gilded</b>: Wipe dust carefully from
-anything gilded with a soft silk cloth, then
-polish with a clean chamois sprinkled lightly
-with alcohol and dipped in thrice-sifted whiting.
-Rub steadily but not hard. Blow dust
-from deep carvings with a hand bellows unless
-a vacuum cleaner is in use.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER VIII<br /> <br />FOOD: CHOOSING AND KEEPING</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Flour</b>: Perfect flour has a slight yellow
-tinge and a faint, pleasant smell, especially
-after wetting. Dazzling whiteness indicates
-bleaching; a gray tinge or minute black specks,
-showing only under the microscope, grinding
-from spoiled grain. Test by gripping a handful—if
-it remains the shape of the hand and
-shows the lines of the palm, buy it. Gluten is
-a most desirable element. Test for it by
-wetting a pinch to a stiff dough, and washing
-the starch out of it in cold water. The greater
-and tougher the stringy residue the greater the
-gluten content. Wet another pinch very soft,
-take it betwixt thumb and finger, and try to
-spin a thread. If it spins, all well; if it does
-not, but makes only blobs on the finger tips,
-there is likely to have been corn ground with
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>the wheat. Another test for corn admixture
-is to dry a pinch, but not scorch it, and rub
-between the finger tips. Pure wheat flour will
-not feel gritty, but corn, no matter how
-finely ground, remains a little rough.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Set flour barrels a little above the floor, and
-do not use the same one continuously. Any
-wooden container may become a harbor for
-insects. A japanned tin can, emptied and aired
-monthly, is best for keeping flour, meal, or
-oatmeal in bulk. All should be kept where it
-is dry, airy, and free of smells, as all take up
-taints very readily.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cornmeal</b>: Fresh water-ground cornmeal
-has a pleasant smell, and runs through the
-fingers without caking or clotting. A musty
-odor shows it is too old. Meal from white
-flint corn is much the most desirable. Sift
-it at need—the bran helps to keep it. Cornmeal
-kiln-dried and bolted, as it has to be for
-the grocers to save it from spoiling, is, in a sort
-a libel on the real thing. In it there is not
-much choice save between fine and coarse
-grinding. Fine-ground makes clammy bread,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>hence is to be avoided. But even kiln-drying
-should not quite take away the original fragrance.
-Perfect meal shows under the microscope
-round white grains like fairy hail.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Oatmeal</b>: Beware that which has much
-grain dust between the grains. Examine carefully
-a double handful before buying in quantity;
-if you find even one trace of weevil, reject
-it. Weevil and sundry mites—<i>Acari</i> in scientific
-parlance—are the bane of grain foods if
-they are kept over long. Hence the caution
-of keeping them in bright metal away from
-dampness and molds.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Buckwheat Flour</b>: Fresh buckwheat flour
-is of a slightly tawny cast and a lively velvet
-feel. Mustiness means age—at first there is
-hardly any smell. Clotting or caking indicates
-dampness either of grain or storage, hence a
-product below grade.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Grits and Hominy</b>: Judge by the absence
-of grain dust and the even grinding; grains the
-same size approximately cook evenly. Examine
-a sprinkle through a magnifying-glass,
-and if there are signs of weevil or mites do not
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>buy at any price. A pocket magnifier is cheap
-and handy, also it may save you many times its
-cost in a single month.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Coffee</b>: Green coffee beans break with a
-clean fracture, and if the break is ragged or
-spongy there has been mold or heating.
-Roasted beans should show one-half very
-dark brown, the other half black but not
-scorched. Crack between the teeth; you can
-taste scorching. Fresh-ground coffee is stronger
-and more flavorous than that ground in bulk.
-Also there is less chance of adulteration. To
-test for adulteration, stir a pinch of ground
-coffee into a glass of cold water. Pure coffee
-settles to the bottom, leaving hardly a trace of
-color. Chicory will rise to the top, also making
-a kind of scum. Adulteration with roasted
-grain or bread or the artificial beans will color
-the water more or less deeply. Keep coffee in
-bright tin or glass, tightly closed, away from
-light, where it is dry and cool.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Tea</b>: Tea is largely a matter of taste and
-brands, also prices. Very cheap tea is undesirable,
-being commonly adulterated with spent
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>tea leaves. Tests vary as much as brands. A
-safe and easy one is to infuse a pinch of tea
-one minute in boiling water, pour off one-half,
-and let the other half stand, keeping at almost
-boiling heat for ten minutes. Pour off and
-compare in smell and taste with the first.
-Artificial color, if present, will show as dregs in
-the long steeping and reveal itself further in a
-faint metallic taste. Various copper salts are
-the commonest coloring matters, and, though
-the quantities are too small to be immediately
-dangerous, constant use may develop stomach
-trouble. Tea is best kept air-tight, dark, dry,
-and warm.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Butter</b>: Beware butter too yellow, especially
-if winter-packed. Butter colors are
-harmless in the main, but some constitutions
-are intolerant of them. Look for firm texture
-slightly grained and a lively, agreeable smell.
-A sour smell and white specks show something
-to let alone. Keep tightly covered, dark, and
-cool, away from any possibility of taints.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Lard</b>: If you do not know, experimentally,
-good fresh lard, get leaf fat, try it out, taking
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>care not to scorch it, and use the product as a
-standard. Lard must be firm, but not hard,
-even-textured throughout, and with almost no
-smell. Your nose, if permitted, will tell you
-if it is either scorched or rancid—the two unpardonable
-faults. From grain-fed pork it is
-clear white, with now and then a faint cream
-tinge. Keep in glass or bright tin, tightly
-closed, where it is cool and dark.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cheese</b>: As to choice of cheese one cannot
-dogmatize; so much depends on individual
-palates. Get the best you can afford of your
-chosen sort. Good cheese cuts grainy rather
-than waxy—it is not too greasy, reasonably
-solid, and free, of course, of mites or weevil.
-Cut a section from a whole cheese, then butter
-well the cut surfaces, cover with wax paper, and
-keep dark, dry, and cool. Wrap the cut-out
-section in wax paper likewise, and keep in a
-covered crock for daily use. Keep fancy,
-strong-smelling cheeses well wrapped in tinfoil,
-then in wax paper, and laid inside a covered
-crock, set in a cool place.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Beef</b>: Prime beef comes only from well-fatted
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>animals, neither too young nor too old.
-Fat and suet are white, inclining faintly to
-cream; lean a dark, healthy red, which becomes
-brighter by hanging. Very yellow fat and
-scarlet lean indicate a condition below first
-class. The meat should not cut dry when
-raw, but neither should liquid follow the
-cleaver.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mutton and Lamb</b>: The fat over the ribs
-is the best index of quality; if it is half an inch
-or more, the animal was thriving. The fat
-should be white with hardly a trace of yellow,
-the lean a fine purply red, not too deep. Follow
-your nose in buying all manner of butcher’s
-stuff, remembering cooking will never work the
-miracle of making sound the unsound. Good
-spring lamb has very white fat, with lean inclining
-to pinkish red. If the rib fat covers the
-whole surface, all is well. The caul fat should
-be in lumps as big as the finger end. A strong
-sheepy smell of either lamb or mutton shows
-animals badly dressed, or, in case of mutton,
-too old. Press a bare finger hard upon the
-outer surface; if the meat feels grainy there
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>has probably been treatment with some preservative.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Pork</b>: Clear white fat and lean of a lively
-pink-red show perfect pork. It cannot well be
-too fat, yet if there are lumps or inflamed spots
-in the kidney fat, let it alone. Press hard on
-the skin; it should be elastic, and be sure there
-is only a fleshy smell. Sniff the big joints—spoiling
-begins there. Sniff sausage likewise,
-and reject if too highly seasoned. The seasoning
-may disguise less pleasant smells. It
-should be red and white speckled, the color
-predominant; five pounds of lean to three of
-fat is the best proportion.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Salt Meats</b>: Streaky bacon should have
-white fat and dark-red lean—yellow fat is
-undesirable. It must smell lightly of smoke
-and have also a tang of salt. Salt pork must
-be very white and firm, the lean of it showing
-a dull-pale red. Hams must have white fat,
-thick and firm, and lean of a rich, clear red just
-the least inclined to purple. Look close around
-the bone; if the fat there is white and firm the
-ham is all right. It must, of course, have been
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>well smoked. But too thick smoke, shown by a
-black-brown color, is undesirable. Corned beef
-should be clear red, firm, and clean-smelling.
-Dried beef should have a firm, dark outside
-and be a dark, clear red within. If it shaves
-to slivers partly transparent, it is very nearly
-perfect.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Poultry</b>: All poultry save capons can be too
-fat. But it had better be too fat than too lean.
-Choose light-colored fat and firm pinky-white
-flesh. See that combs are fresh-colored, leg
-joints flexible, and skin soft. Much hard, deep-yellow
-fat indicates age. Milk-fed poultry,
-so called, is mainly so called—it may have got
-milk, but much else went with it. With ducks
-and geese, pull open the eyelids; if the eyes are
-filmed the birds are likely to have been killed
-too long. Freezing injures the quality of
-poultry. Dry-picked poultry is much more
-desirable than that which is scalded. To test
-for age look at the legs—scaliness is a sure
-mark of age. Press hard upon the breast bone;
-in a young fowl it bends a little, in an old
-one it is rigid.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span><b>Keeping Fresh Meat and Poultry</b>: Never
-put meat or poultry in contact with ice,
-neither lay them flat in dish or pan. Put a
-rack under the meat, then set the pan in the
-refrigerator, first wiping the meat with a damp
-(not wet) cloth. This until cooking-time.
-Things to be kept several days should be well
-wiped, laid on waterproof paper, have lumps
-of charcoal put round and about, then wrapped,
-tied, put in cheesecloth bags, and hung where
-it is cool and airy. Lacking such hanging
-space, lay them on racks close to ice.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Salt Fish</b>: Keep salt fish, whether dry or in
-brine, well away from all else. A good place
-for them is a big box with a tight cover, the
-cracks filled inside with putty and covered outside
-with paper. Put a shelf across for boxes
-and cartons; stand kits on the floor. Hinge
-on the top as a door, and fasten with hook and
-staple. Set the box on short legs, else put
-bricks under the corners.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Things in Glass</b>: Glass jars, whether of
-preserves, fruit, or vegetables, had better be
-wrapped in paper, held on by a rubber band, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>set so as not to touch. They should be kept
-where it is dark, dry, clean, and cool, on slat
-shelves or plank ones bored full of half-inch
-holes. Light, through its weird actinic rays,
-plays hob with flavors, and may even induce
-worse things. Yet jellies set in full sunlight
-for, say, ten days gain a richer texture and keep
-better ever after.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Fruit and Vegetable Storage</b>: With a
-cool, dry, airy cellar have movable bins of
-slats with firm, low legs, whitewashed yearly
-inside and out. Store in them apples, potatoes,
-sweet and Irish, turnips, carrots, beets, what
-not. Lay grapes, choosing perfect bunches
-only, upon swinging slat shelves and cover with
-cheese cloth. In a temperature around forty
-degrees there will be no rotting nor drying up,
-provided only sound things have been brought
-in.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Canning Things</b>: The secret of success in
-canning things is perfect sterilization. Do the
-work if possible in bright, windy weather, out
-doors if you can; if not, in a kitchen very clean
-and well aired. Bring into it no specked or
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>rotten things—decay is a ferment the same as
-yeast, and spores of it spread through the air.
-It is better to prepare things outside. Drop
-apples, pears, or peaches in water as pared or
-hulled, and keep them covered until ready to
-cook. Have two kettles of syrup, one bubbling,
-the other barely simmering. Have a boiler
-of boiling water for the jars. Empty a jar just
-at the moment of using, fill it running over
-with boiling-hot fruit and seal instantly.
-The simmering-kettle is for filling up the
-other. Keep the bubbling-kettle filled with
-syrup to capacity, drop in barely fruit
-enough to fill a jar, cook for five minutes,
-then seal. A few cloves and a blade of
-mace in the top of each can improve flavor.
-Use at least half weight of sugar to fruit—three-fifths
-is better. Invert after sealing and
-screw tops harder when cool. If a can leaks,
-empty it, reheat, fill, and seal securely. Set hot
-jars away from draughts until cool. Remember,
-though, the fruit which comes out of your
-cans will be just as good and no better than
-what went into them. Therefore spend your
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>time and strength only on good fruit, ripe, but
-not over-ripe.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Outdoor Pantries</b>: Save in the very hottest
-weather edibles, cooked or raw, keep better in
-fresh air than in a refrigerator. An outdoor
-pantry can be set on a back porch or on legs
-in a shady yard, or even made fast to the wall.
-A goods box, whitewashed, set firmly about
-waist high, furnished with shelves inside and
-a door of screen wire, will hold meat, milk,
-cakes, pies, bread, surplus fruit, raw or cooked,
-and keep them to the queen’s taste. Have
-clean bags with drawstrings to slip over dishes
-of meat, as hams, roasts, a fowl in wait for
-Sunday dinner. Lay raw meat upon lumps
-of charcoal, put other lumps over it, and wrap
-tight in clean cloth, then lay upon a rack or
-slat shelf. Put milk in a bright tin bucket
-with a tight cover, stand it in a pan, put in
-half inch of water, then wrap the milk bucket
-with a thick cloth, letting it touch the water.
-It will keep damp and, by evaporation, cool
-the milk.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Where ice is hard to get have holes made
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>with a post-hole digger, a foot across and four
-feet deep. Fit stout wooden tops to them big
-enough to lap an inch all round. Put a handle
-on firmly and screw a stout hook in the middle
-underneath. Suspend things from this hook
-by a cord or light chain, as a bucket of milk,
-or butter, a bottle of wine, water, or grape
-juice, or a bag of fruit. Fresh meat even can
-be kept several days, of course wrapping it well
-before hanging it. Rain ruins this form of cold
-storage, but for camps, summer bungalows, and
-so on it is a very present help.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>A greater one is a dry well either rock-walled
-or planked up. Have it seven to eight
-feet deep, wide enough for a ladder, and set
-shelves around the edge. Or it may be simply
-dug, covered, and things let down into it at
-the end of strings. An abandoned well or
-cistern comes in handy for such use. If deep
-and dry, whole carcasses as of lambs, sheep,
-pigs, or deer can be hung and kept safe.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Dried Fruit</b>: Keep sun-dried fruit in a
-warm, airy place, sunning it often. Look it
-over for worms, throw out infested bits, scald
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>the residue one minute in full boiling water,
-spread thin, and dry in the oven. In a long
-damp spell bring dried fruit into the kitchen
-and hang where heat will strike it, but away
-from steam. All this applies equally to sun-dried
-vegetables, such as corn, okra, and green
-peas, likewise to beans and peas full grown.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Keeping Rich Cake</b>: Plum cake, spice
-cake, or iced pound cake keep a long time
-treated thus: Pour a teaspoonful of brandy
-upon the under side, let it soak in, then wrap
-the whole loaf in a clean cloth and sprinkle
-with brandy. Put into an earthen crock with
-a tight cover, lay a fresh apple on top, and
-keep shut. Once a week set the crock upon
-a cooling range until warm through, removing
-the apple while warming. Put in a fresh apple
-every fortnight, and renew the brandy treatment
-at the same time. Plum cake almost demands
-this keeping, being better for a year of
-it. Other cakes should not be kept over six
-months.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Keeping Melons for Christmas</b>: Plant
-melons so they will ripen a little before frost.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>Build a rail pen, floor it two feet above ground,
-and lay on the floor a foot of corn stalks well
-packed. Stand other stalks about the edge,
-then fill in a foot of fresh corn husks. Bed in
-these the melons, cut each with a short length
-of vine, and the vine ends dipped in melted
-paraffine. Wrap the melons in tissue paper,
-take care not to let them touch nor lie too close
-to the stalk wall. Cover with another foot of
-husks, packed down firmly, but not rammed.
-Over these put more corn stalks, filling the
-pen with them. Lay on a slanted roof of
-boards, weighting them in place.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Fresh Eggs</b>: A strictly fresh egg has a tiny
-air space at either end betwixt shell and lining.
-Lying makes the air bubbles rise and join. A
-fresh egg sinks in water end down, one less fresh
-commonly lies on its side. Break an egg,
-empty the shell, look in the ends; if the spaces
-are lacking it is not fresh. Or boil hard—a
-fresh yolk will have white evenly all round.
-After some days the yolk will be near the shell
-or pressing against it.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>IX<br /> <br />HOUSE PLANTS, WINDOW BOXES, CUT FLOWERS</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Soil</b>: Soil for pots and boxes must be very
-rich and light. Mix it of one-half well-rotted
-animal manure, one-quarter leaf mold
-or rotted sods, and one-quarter good loam.
-If the loam is heavy clay make it one-half
-clean sand. Heap and keep under cover,
-away from sun-baking and the leaching of rain.
-Sift for use. Sprinkle now and again to keep
-it moist.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Pots</b>: Use clean pots and sound. Break up
-cracked ones for drainage. Wash pots as soon
-as empty, stack, and stand in air. Wash again
-before using, dry, then wipe over outside with
-a cloth wet in copperas water. This to prevent
-the annoying green scum. Repeat the wiping
-over with copperas water about once a month.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>Keep pot surfaces clean—their dull red, so
-kept, is more artistic than any jardinière.
-Further, it makes for plant health—a clean pot
-admits air to the roots.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Window Boxes</b>: Window boxes must be
-well drained. If set outside it is imperative
-that they be made fast. Lacking regular
-window guards, use hooks and staples. Paint
-wooden boxes dull green outside and white
-inside. Choose tile ones to harmonize with
-walls and windows. Have uniform boxes for
-a row of windows—this applies equally to
-boxes proper and what grows in them. Indoor
-boxes should have zinc trays fitted to them,
-with strips laid across to insure drainage.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Potting</b>: Pots must be proportioned to their
-contents. A hyacinth bulb will thrive in a
-four-inch pot. A clump of three will grow in
-a six-inch one; it should be shallow. A shallow
-eight-inch pot will hold a dozen tulips or
-Roman hyacinths or two dozen crocuses.
-Broad pots, rather shallow, are best for all
-manner of bulbs save the tall-growing lilies,
-such as the Amaryllis family, Auratum, and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>Easter lilies. Plant rooted cuttings in two-inch
-pots, shifting them as they grow. Over-potting
-is a drawback, especially with flowering
-things. Do not shift until the pot is filled
-with roots—test for that by turning out—and
-shift to the next size. Seasonal bulbs rarely
-require shifting, but those kept year in and out
-must be separated from their offsets and given
-fresh earth. In shifting put an inch of broken
-pot in first, arranging a big bit over the hole,
-fill in a little earth, then set the plant upon it;
-the ball at its root should come within an inch
-of the top. Hold it plumb and fill in sifted
-earth about it, shaking the pot gently after
-each handful. Shake hard when the pot is
-full; fill in chinks around the edge and put a
-little fresh earth on top, then water freely but
-without splashing. Let it drain and set in
-place. Always have something underneath to
-catch the drip. Glazed ware is better than the
-clay saucers—they make damp spots.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Plant bulbs their own depth in earth except
-the finer lilies. Set them only a little way in
-earth. It is safer to make a little hole in the
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>earth, put in a handful of clean sand, and bed
-the bulb in the sand. Keep very wet—sand
-will not rot the bulb surface. Fill up with soil
-an inch higher, but keep it away from the bulb
-with a sand blanket, and put a very thin layer
-of sand on top. Plant ordinary bulbs in succession
-from September to December, keep
-damp and dark for some weeks to insure root
-growth, then bring to light, water, and fertilize,
-turning every three days to make symmetrical.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Plant Choice</b>: No plant will live long without
-light—few will thrive without more or less
-sunlight. The green-and-white Aspidastra is
-the hardiest in this respect. Plants used for
-interior decoration must be often shifted, set
-in light, fertilized, and bathed till thrifty, while
-others in good condition take their places.
-Weekly changes will maintain a proper effect.
-Palms and ferns are most satisfactory for such
-uses; flowering things get ragged very quickly.
-Begonias carefully tended and not allowed to
-dry out nor get hot make a brave showing.
-So do wax-leafed woody things—dwarf orange
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>and lemon trees, rubber trees, dwarf evergreens
-and box trees.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Plants for a North Light</b>: Fuschia stands
-pre-eminent, next to that thrifty ferns, ivy of
-both sorts, dwarf evergreens, spiderwort, moneywort,
-and trailing box vine. An hour or two
-of sunlight will suffice for all these, other conditions
-to their mind; also, in their season, for
-pansies, violets, and the dwarf Japanese morning
-glories so wonderful in color and texture.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Filling Window Boxes</b>: Make fast, put a
-layer of broken pot over the bottom, upon that
-a very thin layer of excelsior. Cover two
-inches deep with fine earth, then arrange roots
-of your trailers along the outer edge and bank
-up with more earth. Next put in the plants,
-crowding them rather thickly, pack earth
-around and about them, water freely, make
-sure all plants stand straight, then shower
-plentifully, using a fine sprinkler. Water
-every day—twice daily in very hot weather—shower
-every other day, and fertilize once a
-week. This if the plants thrive. If they turn
-a sickly yellow, starve a bit, after watering
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>plentifully with water a little too hot to bear
-your hand in.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Choice of Window Plants</b>: Flowering
-geraniums deserve first place for a season’s
-bloom. White and pink ones smothered in
-green look better against a red brick wall than
-scarlet or crimson. But scarlet and white, or
-scarlet and crimson with feathery green, such
-as asparagus sprengeri, are beautiful against
-white walls, brown or buff ones, or any sort of
-stone. Pansies with alyssum edges are lovely
-while they last. Choose them for early spring,
-putting in geraniums or primroses later.
-Potted bulbs show beautifully in window
-boxes with edges of trailing green. Rose
-geraniums in window boxes help to drive away
-flies. Piazza boxes in midsummer have nothing
-more effective than the savage splendors of
-gladioli. Plant in double row, starting the
-bulbs in pots and setting out when a foot high.
-Nasturtiums also make a splendid show. So
-do all the tribe of begonia, provided the sun is
-not too hot. Morning and evening rays suit
-them.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span><b>Palms and Ferns</b>: Small thrifty plants
-need to be shifted yearly. After they reach a
-good size do not shift, fertilize instead. Keep
-pot surfaces clean, set at least a foot above the
-floor, water plentifully and regularly, but do
-not let it stand at the roots. Sprinkle or wipe
-with a damp cloth weekly, and monthly give a
-plunge bath in your own bath water. Let
-stand till barely tepid, then tie a cloth over the
-earth, and lay your plant on its side in the tub.
-Splash and scrub well, set upright, drain off
-water, and shower well with clear, clean water.
-Bathing thus is the best insurance of health
-and a protection against the depredations of
-every sort of pest.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Roses and Woody Things in General</b>:
-Only a very few roses are adapted to house
-culture unless there is a greenhouse for their
-refreshing. The catalogues name them. Get
-vigorous year-old plants and bake the earth
-for planting them at least an hour in a moderate
-oven. This to insure against the beetle which
-lives in earth and has no other cure than prevention.
-Make the earth very fine, sift it
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>lightly through the roots, water well, put on
-more earth, wet it, fill up the pot, drench, drain,
-and set in light, but away from sunlight, for
-several days. Pinch off any flower buds, also
-new ones appearing before the rose is well
-established. After thrifty growth sets in let
-bloom, but not overbloom. Pinch off all but
-the most promising buds. Water with tepid
-suds weekly. In between give liquid manure.
-Make it strong—roses are gross feeders. Bathe
-often, keep warm and in light, turning every
-other day. The many-flowered roses sold
-around the holidays are good for nothing but
-to be set out in the border after their bloom is
-past.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Fuchsias, azaleas, lemon verbenas, the
-spireas, and genesta require much the same
-care. Fuchsias, as has been said, do not demand
-full sun. Also they like a moderate
-temperature. The others thrive in heat and
-light. So do camellias and gardenias. These,
-however, are apt to disappoint anybody without
-a genius for growing things. Rubber trees
-too big for the plunge bath must have their
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>leaves well wiped with white soapsuds, then
-with clear water. Tall palms demand the same
-care. All plants need a moist atmosphere, so
-keep water on radiators and wet sponges over
-registers. This is as good for people as for
-plants.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Fertilizers and Fertilizing</b>: Liquid manure
-is an ideal fertilizer so far as concerns the
-plants themselves. It has the drawback of
-a bad odor. To use it set the plants outdoors,
-give in sufficient quantity, let soak in, then
-water well with warm water and leave to air
-some hours. To make, put well-rotted manure
-in something tight, pour boiling water upon it,
-stir well, and let stand. Stir again before dipping
-out—it should be as thick as cream.
-After using it on window boxes close the
-windows until the smell is gone. Things too
-big to move can be fertilized and the windows
-left open, closing doors—so fertilize in mild
-weather. The odor will pass in two hours if
-the tepid watering has been thorough.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Many good commercial fertilizers are almost
-or quite odorless—ammoniated bone meal, for
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>example. There is also a fertilizer in lozenge
-form which is scentless and wonderfully effective.
-Dissolve a lozenge in boiling water, let
-stand all night, then stir well and apply. Give
-a teacup—the same as of liquid manure—to a
-ten-inch pot, a tablespoonful to a four-inch
-one, and half that to a thumb pot. A quart
-will be none too much for a three-foot window
-box filled with soft-stemmed plants. They
-demand more than woody plants. Over-fertilizing
-is bad—it turns leaves yellow and
-scants bloom. Plants suffer indigestion the
-same as people. The remedy for it is to set
-them in a sink or on a grating and pour hot (not
-boiling) water through the pot until it runs out
-clear.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Insects and Insecticides</b>: Insects are the
-pest of house plants. The worst of them are
-plant lice, mealy bugs, white and black flies,
-red spider, and the various scales. All are
-fought with pretty much the same weapons—namely,
-soap and water, smoke, and eternal
-vigilance. Greenhouses and hothouses are almost
-universally infested. Hence every new
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>plant must be suspected. Do not set it among
-other plants clean and thrifty for at least a
-fortnight, and then only after a thorough bath.
-A plant badly infested had better be thrown
-away, and quickly. Flies white and black are
-hardest to fight; they fly away at a touch on
-the pot. Set the infested plant apart, with a
-stick standing higher than itself fast in earth,
-throw a thin cloth over, letting it reach the
-ground all around, then slip under it a lighted
-smudge, and set over cloth and plant either a
-box or a barrel, with paper pasted over the
-cracks. Let stand two hours, then plunge in a
-tepid bath, keeping on the cloth until well
-under water. This to hold in any flies left
-living. Splash well, drain, and while damp
-dust with either insect powder or finely
-crumbled tobacco, putting it on both sides of
-the leaves.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>For plant lice spray thickly with strong tobacco
-water, leave an hour, then bathe, and
-dust with more tobacco. A little flowers of
-sulphur mixed in makes the treatment more
-effectual. Bathe in suds (carbolic soap, if
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>possible) next day, and follow with a clear
-tepid shower.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Red spider is invisible until it appears as red
-blotches upon foliage. Water, and still more
-water, combined with smoking cures it.
-Shower infested plants heavily every day for a
-fortnight, smoke with tobacco twice a week, and
-keep well dusted with either tobacco or pyrethrum
-powder. Mealy bugs, which are white
-and woolly, as big as grains of wheat, should
-have a sulphur dusting after smoking and
-bathing. All the big scales, which are never
-very numerous unless plants are fatally
-neglected, should be hand-picked, then the
-plant well washed with whale-oil soapsuds
-dashed with carbolic acid. San José scale,
-which is almost invisible but feels like fine
-rough sand upon the under sides of leaves and
-over stalks, is so deadly and difficult any plant
-found infested should be burned at once, the
-pot broken, and the earth soaked with boiling
-water. Cures for it there are, but too difficult
-for amateurs, withal somewhat dangerous.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Buy tobacco dust, make tobacco water.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>Pour a gallon of boiling water upon a pound of
-tobacco stems, let stand a day, keeping warm,
-strain and use. Cut the spent stems fine and
-mix through potting soil. Enough tobacco
-water to color it mixed in makes a plunge bath
-more effective against insects. Make smudges
-thus: put a few slivers of wood or half a dozen
-matches crossed in a small flat tin, cover with
-either pyrethrum powder, tobacco dust, cut
-up stalks, unspent, or flowers of sulphur mixed
-with fine damp sawdust. Light, see that there
-is not too much blaze, and set beneath plants.
-Do not make smudges big enough to give out
-scalding heat; better two or three small ones
-if heavy smoke is required.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Red rust and brown scale, the special enemies
-of palms, need to be washed off with strong
-carbolic soapsuds and a soft brush before bathing
-and smoking.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Earth Worms</b>: Lime water is the remedy
-for earth worms. Stick holes in the earth
-quite to the bottom, then pour on clear lime
-water (see section Renovators) till it stands on
-top. The worms will crawl up to escape it.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>Lime water is also good to sweeten sour earth.
-Give a half cup after the hot-water treatment.
-Dig up the earth in pots so as to keep a light,
-clean surface. Green scum, while not dangerous,
-does not make for plant health.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>For Roaches</b>, dip cut potatoes in arsenic
-mixed with sugar and lay cut side down on the
-pots and about them. Gather up every morning,
-dropping instantly into a vessel of boiling
-water—this to destroy such insects as remain
-alive. But never put out poison if there are
-children in the house.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cuttings</b>: Cuttings root best in clean sand,
-kept very wet and warm and under glass.
-Make the cuttings of new wood, neither soft
-nor fully ripe. Cut with at least two eyes—three
-are better—slant cuts, and set in sand
-slantwise, with one eye above the surface.
-Shift as soon as growth begins fully to thumb-pots,
-and keep the pots plunged in another box
-of sand. Make geranium cuttings, whether
-scented or flowering, of healthy stalks full of
-sap and vigor. June is the best time to make
-cuttings of lemon verbena, fuchsia, heliotrope,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>and roses. Tips of strong shoots from either
-fuchsia or heliotrope will root then almost for
-the chance. Chrysanthemums from cuttings
-of the flower stalk give much finer bloom than
-those from old roots.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Leaf cuttings are interesting. Tuberous
-begonias root thus readily. Roses are more
-difficult. Peg down the leaf on wet sand under
-glass, make tiny cuts in it, and keep very wet
-in sunshine. Roots will strike from the cuts
-after they have calloused.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Summing up, the needs of a house plant are
-the same as those of a human being—air, light,
-food, water, cleanliness, and love.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cut Flowers</b>: Cut flowers early in the
-morning, stand loosely upright in clean water
-away from light until they can be arranged.
-In hot weather sprinkle lightly if arranging
-must wait, and cover with a light cloth.
-Florist blossoms must be kept cool and damp;
-stand the holder in the bathtub, draw three
-inches of cold water, and spread something
-over them.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>In arranging do not mix nor crowd. Tulips
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>with only their own stalks and leaves are
-wonderfully decorative, but a single other
-bloom makes them blotchy. No green save
-the featheriest asparagus fern should ever go
-with flowers which have handsome foliage.
-Lay fern fronds upon the cloth rather than disfigure
-with them a centerpiece of roses. Tall,
-stiff stems, as jonquils, narcissi, and lilies,
-absolutely require tall, slender holders. So do
-long-stemmed roses, especially the cloth-yard
-American Beauties. It is vandalism to put
-anything with them. Carnations bear massing,
-but the vase should have space about it.
-Lilies lose immeasurably by crowding. A
-single handsome tall stalk gives distinction,
-where three or four imperfect ones huddled
-would be commonplace.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Half a dozen roses with fine foliage will make
-a handsome centerpiece thus: put into a low,
-flat bowl, rather flaring, a woven-wire cake
-rack nearly the same size. Cut stalks, if long,
-to six inches. Use the cut-off stems to mat
-through the woven wire. Cover well with
-cold water, then arrange the flowers so each
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>will show for itself, thrusting the stems between
-the wires at the proper angle. A wreath of
-asparagus fern laid on the cloth outside adds
-much more to the effect than if the green were
-twined among the flowers. Lacking a cake
-rack, flatten a big potato after peeling it, make
-holes in the upper surface with a wire nail, and
-anchor the stems in them.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Hanging-holders for trailers should have
-something inside—wet sand or wire net—to
-hold their contents stable. If a tall flower pot
-is set in a niche or corner, arrange a light to
-fall directly on it, as a fairy lamp or tall candle
-set upon a bracket. Beware of having too
-many flowers, and particularly too many sorts.
-Even blossoms can swear at each other—decoratively.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Keeping Cut Flowers Fresh</b>: Flowers sent
-long distances need special care. Stick the
-stalks of roses in sections of potato, else seal by
-dipping in melted paraffine, then roll each
-separately in wax paper so it forms a tube.
-Lay the tubes together in a stanch box, cut
-holes in either end after it is wrapped and tied.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>The roses should be between bud and half
-blow. Chrysanthemums can be sent the same
-way by either mail or express. So can camellias
-and gardenias, but they change color so
-quickly after opening they are hardly worth
-the trouble.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>X<br /> <br />DISINFECTANTS, INSECTS, INSECTICIDES</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Quicklime</b>: Put big lumps in broad earthen
-platters, set on floors of cellars, outhouses, or
-barns, and slack with copperas water.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Charcoal</b>: Lay lumps in vegetable bins or
-on cellar shelves. Hang other lumps in bags
-of coarse net on cellar and pantry walls. Heat
-every month or so to maintain absorbent
-power.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Borax</b>: Sprinkle powdered borax freely over
-smelly places—under sinks, around plumbing,
-over pantry shelves, and on floors where cans
-are set. It is so safe, so wholesome, even
-spilling it is worth while.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Washing-soda</b>: Dissolve a pound in a pint
-of boiling water and flush sink pipes, refrigerator
-drains, and set tubs with it.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Copperas</b> (green vitriol, otherwise sulphate
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>of iron): Dissolve a pound in a gallon of water;
-it will take several hours. Dilute one-half with
-boiling water and flush water closets, bath
-pipes, set bowls, and so forth. Sprinkle thus
-diluted over smelly earth, as in chicken runs,
-kennel floors, stall floors, and where garbage
-stands. Use liberally on garbage, in earth
-closets, or privies, also on standing water infested
-with green scum. A gallon added to a
-pot of whitewash gives a yellow tinge and
-makes the wash more sanitary.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bluestone</b>: Bluestone, sulphate of copper,
-must be dissolved in the same proportions. It
-is a germicide more than disinfectant, especially
-valuable where there have been sick
-animals. Dilute with four times its bulk of
-boiling water or mix through hot whitewash.
-It is staple against seed infection, as smuts
-and molds. The most part of garden seed
-sprout and grow better for wetting with the
-dilute solution and drying before planting.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>White Vitriol</b>: Sulphate of zinc, a powerful
-astringent germicide, needs care in handling.
-Dissolve it, four ounces to the half gallon of
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>water, strain, and put into clean bottles. Keep
-dark, corked tightly. Use to clean and disinfect
-sores from frost bite or indolent ulcers.
-Dilute with five times as much tepid rain water.
-Use on the combs of poultry when raw from
-frost, also for scaly leg and the ail known as
-“bumble-foot.”</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bichloride of Mercury</b>: The king among
-disinfectants, also one of the deadliest among
-poisons. Dissolve in boiling rain water, four
-ounces to the gallon. Let stand; it dissolves
-slowly. Keep in glass, tightly corked, plainly
-labeled “poison.” Dilute one-half for use in
-the sick room. But put on full strength when
-fighting bed bugs.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bordeaux Mixture</b>: Staple for spraying
-against molds, etc. One pound blue vitriol
-dissolved in five gallons rain water and added
-to one pound powdered unslaked lime mixed
-to a cream with rain water. Stir well, and
-strain before spraying. Dilute one-half to
-three-fourths; if too strong it scorches vegetation.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Kerosene Emulsion</b>: Stir hard together in
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>an earthen vessel a quart of buttermilk and
-half a gallon kerosene. Stir with wood until
-thick and buttery. Use full strength to paint
-tree trunks and hard branches in winter, but
-dilute at least ten times for use on green
-things. Mix with warm water, twenty parts
-to one for spraying against plant lice. For
-fighting red spider stir a little sulphur into the
-emulsion before diluting. Spray late—as near
-night as possible.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bisulphide of Lime</b>: Sure death to either
-animal or plant lice. Mix in equal quantity
-flowers of sulphur and powdered quicklime,
-cover two inches with boiling water, boil five
-hours, filling up and adding more water till
-there is three times the original quantity.
-Dilute the result, a brown smelly liquid, one
-hundred times for use either as wash or spray.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Against Garden Pests</b>: Mix any arsenical
-powder—London purple, Scheele’s green, or
-Paris green—with its own bulk of flour and
-twice its bulk of slaked lime, and dust upon
-plants while damp. Good for potato beetles,
-squash bugs, flea bugs, grasshoppers, cut
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>worms, and cabbage worms. Use in a powder
-gun or tie in a thin bag, fasten it to
-a long pole and shake so as to coat plants
-evenly.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Larkspur</b>: Larkspur destroys lice and mites.
-Sow rather thick, cut when beginning to
-flower, dry in shade. Strip leaves and buds
-when full dry, powder, and keep in glass.
-Save stems and coarse stalks to make tea.
-Infuse for twelve hours, then boil for two,
-strain, and reduce by boiling another hour.
-Use in suds a cup to the quart, or in whitewash
-a pint to the gallon. Make an ointment by
-either stewing tender tips in lard or fresh butter
-in a water bath until the grease is well colored
-or by putting with it the infusion at full
-strength and stewing out the water. Stir in a
-little flowers of sulphur, a teaspoonful to the
-pint, for use on cattle or horses. Grease back
-of the ears, under the throat, and along the
-backbone. Grease poultry under the wings,
-around the neck, and on top of the head.
-Blow larkspur powder into the hair of dogs
-and cats after bathing them.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span><b>For Flies and Mosquitoes</b>: Stop the beginnings.
-Burn or bury garbage. Spray all
-possible fly beds well with copperas water
-daily. Be prodigal of whitewash wherever it
-will stick. Flush drains well with boiling soda
-water and use copperas water or carbolic suds
-to spray earth on which waste water discharges.
-Keep manure piles covered with fresh earth,
-also wet daily with copperas water. Set fly
-traps outdoors wherever the pests congregate.
-Fill a tumbler two-thirds with suds and lay a
-cardboard over with a hole in the middle.
-Smear syrup on the underside for bait. Empty
-twice a day, burning the drowned flies. Boil
-together two ounces ground black pepper, four
-ounces sugar, and a cup of sweet milk, set the
-syrup shallowly in plates—the flies will do the
-rest. The mixture kills them, but is harmless
-to anything else. Oil of lavender sprayed will
-drive out flies temporarily. So will rose geranium
-bruised to smell strongly. Screen
-every opening with wire gauze or cheesecloth,
-make cheesecloth covers, rounds with wire in
-the hems, to protect hot food, be diligent with
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>fly paddles, and avoid slopping, also throwing
-out slops on the ground.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Mosquitoes, say the wise men, are a local
-issue, bred in standing water. Wherefore
-leave no water standing, not even a rusty
-canful. Cover rain barrels with screen wire,
-pour crude kerosene upon ponds and pools.
-Begin early, before buds swell. Keep it up
-until frost. Examine cellars, especially barn
-cellars. Mosquitoes winter in them. Kill all
-such lingerers with thick smoke—tobacco
-smoke or from pyrethrum powder or by touching
-off a little gunpowder on a plate. Concussion
-makes the mosquitoes drop; sweep up and
-burn. Concerted action is imperative. If no
-man liveth or dieth unto himself, how much less
-so any man’s crop of mosquitoes! Screens and
-smoke from punk sticks, pyrethrum, and dry
-pennyroyal are the best weapons against attack.
-Oil of pennyroyal likewise helps. Smear
-lightly on forehead, hands, and arms before
-going to sleep. Wilting leaves of the stately
-castor bean, also tender branches, hung about
-will drive out mosquitoes.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>Fleas harbor in light litter—hay, straw,
-leaves, most of all shed hair. Flea-bearing
-animals have each their own species, which
-fight to the death. There are also sand fleas.
-Fight with fire, smoke, water, oil of pennyroyal,
-and fresh black-walnut leaves. Sprinkle kerosene
-on the litter suspected; sweep up and
-burn. Oil sand beds likewise, else drench with
-copperas water. Wet manure heaps with
-bichloride solution or bisulphide of mercury.
-Gather walnut leaves in armfuls and crowd
-them into places unsafe for oil or fire, as under
-piazzas, bungalow floors, or low sheds. Put
-them also about rooms where fleas abound,
-tied in thick bunches, and laid under beds or
-in closets. Gasolene where safe is a mighty
-help. Paint floors and baseboard with it, in
-default of bichloride solution. Painting with
-turpentine is also fairly effective. Success is
-impossible, however, unless the flea-fighting
-extends to animals as well.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bed Bugs</b>: Bed bugs demand eternal vigilance,
-especially in apartments. Make bedrooms
-and closets as nearly as possible bug
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>proof by washing, after cleaning thoroughly,
-with bichloride solution, then filling every
-crack, cranny, and crevice with soft putty.
-Lay a thin rope of putty along the baseboard
-on the floor and crowd down upon it quarter-round
-molding cut to fit. Nail fast, and paint
-to match the baseboard. This is an effectual
-seal for dividing wall on a common floor. Set
-collars of the stiffest putty around steam pipes
-where they go in and out. Renew them as
-often as they crack and crumble, but do not
-trust to them entirely. Examine everything
-monthly—bed, furnishings, chairs, boxes, the
-backs of pictures, books, and stacked papers.
-Paper in mass is a favorite lurking place. Have
-white slips for mattresses; remove, turn, examine
-seams, and wet corners with bichloride.
-Paint the mattress over lightly with bichloride;
-it neither stains nor smells. Wipe the bedstead
-and springs with a cloth wet in it, and
-drench crannies unwipable. Wipe the backs
-of pictures and of dressers, in fact, any sheltered
-and static space. Wipe the floor with bichloride,
-if bare, and wax or oil afterward.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>Sprinkle a carpet or rugs well with bichloride,
-then sweep with a broom dipped in very hot
-water. Empty closets, wipe over, examine all
-accumulations of paper, boxes, etc. A bug
-overlooked will in a month’s space infest a
-whole house. Couches of rattan, wicker, or
-upholstered are strongholds of the blood-suckers.
-Set in air and drench with benzine
-or gasolene, leave standing a day, and drench
-again, shaking, brushing, and beating between
-drenchings.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Wicker clothes hampers and baskets, also
-baby carriages, are other strongholds. Scald
-hampers and baskets with boiling-hot soda
-water, then paint over with turpentine and a
-little sweet oil. Use gasolene on the carriages,
-applying with a thick brush rather than
-drenching. Repeat twice in succession, wash
-everything washable, and sun for a week.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Moths</b>: Moths in upholstered things must
-be got rid of the same as bed bugs (see preceding
-paragraph). Clean rugs thoroughly,
-spray on both sides with gasolene or strong
-black-pepper tea, sun well, then roll up between
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>newspapers, tie fast, wrap spirally with stiff
-paper, fold ends neatly, slip over them paper
-bags fitting accurately, paste down edges,
-paste a strip of paper over the edge of the
-wrapping. Clean heavy coats with gasolene or
-benzine, crowd newspaper into the sleeves,
-crumple more newspaper thickly over the
-hanger, fasten the coat, slip over it a bag of
-pasted newspapers, pass the hanger hook up
-through it, crumple the paper tight around
-the shank and tie, then fold over the bottom
-of the paper several times, and fasten with
-stout wire clips. Moth balls may be slipped
-in coat pockets, but will hardly be needed if they
-are hung in a light place.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Store and protect tailor suits much the same.
-After cleaning fold the skirt belt in six and
-fasten with a big safety pin to lower bend of
-the hanger shank, then slip on its newspaper
-bag and fasten. Put on the coat, then over all
-a bigger newspaper bag. Put inside wisps of
-cotton tied up in net, and wet with oil of cedar.
-One-piece cloth frocks should be hung the same
-as long coats, but have the skirts folded upward
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>over a roll of newspapers about midway and
-pinned or basted to the waist. Store fur coats
-the same way after cleaning and sunning for
-several days. Put mothaline bags outside over
-those of newspaper and sachets of sandalwood
-in the sleeves. If moths have touched them
-before storing, lay them for several days on a
-slat tray in a trunk with a big sponge saturated
-in gasolene below. Keep the trunk outside and
-shut tight; gasolene vapor ought to kill the
-moth eggs. Clean small furs as muffs, tippets,
-cuffs, sun, sew up tight in old linen, sprinkle
-well with black-pepper tea, then wrap in newspaper,
-wipe out their boxes with a cloth dipped
-in gasolene, put in the wrapped furs, wrap
-boxes, and slip in paper bags, then fold and
-paste together the bag ends. If no moth nor
-egg was inside none will come out.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Fine things, such as camel’s-hair shawls,
-moth-infested should be brushed and sunned,
-then wrapped in clean linen, over that thick
-wet towels, over that paper, and laid in a hot
-oven until the paper scorches. This is equal
-to superheated steam for moth and egg destruction,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>but does no harm to the finest fabric. Sew
-up in linen and store same as small furs.
-Steam is also sovereign for moths in carpets
-where it is unsafe to use gasolene or benzine.
-Cover the infected spots with thick wet towels,
-letting them lie a good bit over and iron first
-around the edges, then all over with blazing-hot
-irons, changing them as they cease to hiss.
-Repeat at weekly intervals for a month.
-After ironing go along the edges, wetting the
-carpet well with bichloride solution. A carpet
-to be stored should be sprayed with gasolene
-after cleaning, then folded over double newspapers,
-and sprayed at each doubling over with
-black-pepper tea. A long, narrow bag of moth
-balls in the deepest fold adds something to
-insect insurance. Store in light and off the
-floor. A discarded bed spring is fine to lay
-such things on. Stand rolled rugs on end if
-not too long, and a little apart.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>A Blanket Box</b>: Make blankets clean and
-whole, fold in three, lengthwise, roll up over
-a core of moth balls, sew in old linen, and
-pack. Fill all crevices in a big packing-case
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>with putty or plaster wet with egg, paper with
-plain manila paper, let dry, then paint the
-paper with oil of cedar. Give two coats. Put
-over the bottom a sachet of cedar twigs or
-shavings laid on wadding and tacked between
-cheesecloth. Pack blankets and woolens on
-this, tucking smaller cedar sachets into crevices,
-also moth balls tied in cheesecloth. Put
-in white things first, lay paper over them, then
-pack colored ones. Cover with another cedar
-sachet, tuck paper snugly over it, then shut—the
-top must be hinged on—and paste paper
-over the edges. As long as it is unbroken the
-contents are safe.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Where storage space is lacking use a box
-couch, making sure with bichloride and gasolene
-that neither moth nor bed bug lurks inside.
-Use oil of lavender and pine twigs rather than
-cedar, omit the sealing with paper, but examine
-now and then; if you discover the enemy do
-not halt until he is forever and completely
-yours.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Roaches and Water Bugs</b>: Powdered
-borax mixed with sugar kills them. Set it
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>about in saucers, sprinkle under pipes and on
-sills, also on the bottom of closets and drawers.
-Lay clean paper over it. Once a month remove
-paper, wipe wood, sprinkle again after drying,
-and put on fresh paper. Burn every dead insect.
-In cellars or greenhouses mix a little
-Paris green with the powder, dip into it cut
-potatoes, and lay them cut side down, in the
-way of roaches. Gather up each morning,
-drop in water as gathered, and replace at evening
-with freshly loaded potatoes. Pour turpentine
-around water pipes and those for
-steam heat. Paint the pipes with turpentine,
-doing it when they are cool. Paint kitchen
-floors and baseboards after scouring with
-bichloride of mercury; beware, though, using it
-higher. Keep borax and sugar on pantry
-shelves under paper. Paint with turpentine
-at housecleaning. Fill cracks, crevices, and
-knotholes with putty. Do the same with tops
-and rims of set tubs, renewing it as it breaks.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ants</b>: Ants, black or red, hate the smell of
-camphor. Make rings of it around dishes of
-food and pour it into crevices suspected as ant
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>roads. If they climb by a post or pillar put a
-tarred bandage around it. Find the nest if
-possible and destroy it with boiling water or
-gasolene or kerosene with a little camphor
-added. Beware of gasolene if the nest is close
-to any building. Boiling soda water is safe
-anywhere except about plants. There use
-strong carbolic soapsuds, blood-warm, with an
-after-sprinkle of camphor. Gum camphor
-tied in net and hung in closets or pantries helps
-to drive ants away.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>XI<br /> <br />CARE OF PETS</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Dogs</b>: Choose your dog, unless he chooses
-himself by adopting you, with regard for environment.
-Big dogs require space—big rooms
-and grounds outside. Small ones are “in
-drawing” with apartments or modest houses.
-Breed is a matter of chance or choice. Toy
-terriers, toy Pomeranians, spaniels, and pugs
-fit into restricted menages. St. Bernards,
-collies, greyhounds, wolf hounds, and hunting-dogs
-in general are miserable in confinement,
-also miserably out of place.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Teach him obedience first of all, keep him
-clean and comfortable, never forget him, feed
-regularly, give constant access to clean water,
-and always sufficient exercise. Otherwise
-don’t keep him; neglect is a refinement of
-cruelty.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>Vary the feeding. Dog biscuit day in and
-out destroys appetite and thrift. Shift every
-other day to table scraps, oatmeal porridge,
-cornmeal mush cooked with broth, or raw meat
-and bones. Give milk almost every day—not
-too much. Be sparing of the raw meat;
-a zest suffices. Tiny house dogs ought to have
-light breakfasts, with a hearty dinner around
-two o’clock, and nothing more. Dogs running
-out need much more food, otherwise they get
-into mischief. A hearty breakfast and dinner
-with milk and mush at sundown is not too
-much. Feed all that will be eaten clean; if
-food is left, diminish the quantity. Leave
-nothing but bones where a dog may come back
-to it. Gnawing solid bones helps strength and
-spirit. Small bones of game or fowl must be
-given with discretion; they are crunched and
-swallowed so greedily the sharp ends may do
-harm if the stomach is too full of them.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>A flea-bearing dog is intolerable. Wash in
-larkspur water (see section Insecticides) or
-carbolic soapsuds, and comb while in the bath
-with a fine-tooth comb. Drain off water and
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>fleas, rinse tub, rinse dog well, dry with coarse
-soft towels, keep muzzled until fully dry, and
-away from draughts. When fully dry, part
-hair and blow in behind the ears and along the
-spine flowers of sulphur mixed with larkspur
-powder or pyrethrum powder.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>For skin troubles, mange especially, bathe
-well in hot sulphur soapsuds, rinse dry, and
-rub well into the affected spots unsalted butter
-washed clean of milk and made yellow with
-flowers of sulphur. If the trouble persists
-and the dog is valuable, consult a vet;
-the dog, perhaps, needs constitutional treatment.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Kennels and doghouses must be clean and
-dry, baskets and bedding kept clean and free
-of vermin. Whitewash kennels and doghouses
-often, putting larkspur infusion or
-carbolic acid in the whitewash, else mixing in
-flowers of sulphur. Scald baskets, dry, and
-paint with turpentine and sweet oil. Lay bedding
-outside and drench with gasolene. Burn
-it if mange appears, else it will reinfect the
-animal. Do not let dogs sleep haphazard
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>anywhere they can. Give them comfortable
-beds, indoors or out.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>A dog running free at exercise needs no
-clothes. On leash, with his keeper merely
-walking or sauntering, a warm blanket, or,
-better, a sweater, is essential in cold weather.
-Keep dogs outdoors as much as possible in hot
-weather, but do not let them run too much.
-Provide shade, especially for guard dogs.
-Teach all dogs, and especially guard dogs, to
-refuse food from strangers. This is impossible
-with a hungry dog. Full feeding guards
-against foraging at large, the thing which gives
-poisoners the best opportunity.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Dogs perspire only through the tongue,
-hence the panting after exertion. Let them
-drink all they will, but have the water clean.
-Milk is food, not drink. Do not imagine it
-takes the place of water. Water, free and
-clean, is held the best preventive of rabies. In
-case rabies is suspected isolate safely, and
-observe for at least a week. Pseudo-rabies, induced
-by fear, kills many more people than the
-real thing. An ailing dog, or one tired, thirsty,
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>or lost, will snap at almost anything in his way.
-Do not on that account condemn him untried
-to death. Rest, food, and drink, in confinement,
-will discover his true condition. If madness
-is proved, kill, quickly and mercifully, burn
-or bury, disinfect every space he has touched
-with bichloride of mercury, burn movable
-boards, litter, ropes, etc. Grass or earth upon
-which saliva has dropped had better be
-drenched with kerosene and set on fire.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Cats</b>: Cats likewise suffer rabies; in case
-of it use the same measures. Cats of fancy
-breeds are more decorative than plain tabbys,
-but also more delicate and much less intelligent,
-withal lacking in affection, and of no use save
-to look fine.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>White cats, especially those with blue eyes,
-are more savage, less affectionate, and much
-harder house-broken than black, gray, or
-tortoise-shell ones. Often the white fellows
-are deaf. Each and several, cats run wild for
-reasonable opportunity, yet they bear housing
-and confinement admirably. They need raw
-meat, but not too much; a bit of liver or a
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>fish head every other day suffices. Alternately
-give bones, with the milk and crumbled bread,
-which is the mainstay of their diet. Give also
-at night a saucer of pure milk. Water and
-catnip, green or dry, should be always accessible.
-Do not overfeed; cats are dainty gluttons
-if permitted. Keep them thriving, but
-not fat—fat and indigestion are the roots of
-disease.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Rid of fleas as directed for dogs. After
-drying, confine for some time, first giving a
-saucer of milk with a teaspoonful of whisky
-or brandy in it. For skin troubles grease all
-over with the sulphur and butter, confine so as
-to keep from getting dirty, and wash well after
-twenty-four hours in hot suds, rinsing well and
-drying with soft towels. Repeat at intervals
-as long as needed. Feed on bread and milk,
-be lavish of catnip, burn infected bedding, wash
-and fumigate baskets, or treat with bichloride
-of mercury (see section Disinfectants).</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Belgian Hares and Cavies</b>: Both are
-vegetable feeders. They will live in small
-quarters, but do better in bigger ones. Keep
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>the quarters clean and sanitary with whitewash
-and disinfectants. If very small, have floors
-of loose boards which can be taken up and
-scalded. Feed three times a day with grain,
-roots, and green stuff. Be liberal of the green
-stuff. With a grass run the beasts will supply
-most of it themselves. Scatter the food, and
-give only as much as will be eaten clean.
-Suckling mothers need extra feeds, five a day
-instead of three.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Dust weekly with sifted ashes, corn starch in
-powder, and flowers of sulphur. Use in dry
-weather, putting on at night. Have hutches
-big enough to prevent crowding. Beware letting
-your pets overrun the space at command.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Birds</b>: Mocking-birds, cardinals, bullfinches
-and orioles, all of which it is wicked to keep
-in cages, need very roomy cages, perches with
-the bark on, much clean sandy earth on the
-floors, clean grain, green stuff, ripe fruit, and
-insects, besides the egg-and-potato mixture
-which is their mainstay. Tie heads of wheat,
-oats, or millet to the bars, hang lettuce and
-peppergrass there, also chickweed in season.
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>Put ripe berries on clean twigs and suspend;
-force bits of apple and peach between wires
-close to the perches. Have a swing, a roomy
-bath, with the usual feed and water cups.
-Change the water daily, twice in summer.
-Put one drop of carbolic acid in the bath for
-insect prevention. Boil eggs twenty minutes,
-crush the yolk while hot with a freshly boiled
-Irish potato, season with the least grain of salt
-and a very little red pepper, and put into the
-cup. Keep the cage very clean, scald it every
-three months. Hang it outside in pleasant
-weather, but never so the sun at midday will
-strike full on the birds.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Give flies, crickets, earth worms, grasshoppers,
-but not hairy caterpillars, spiders, nor
-wasps. Mockers sing almost the night through
-in spring. To silence them cover the cage with
-something thick, set where it is very dark, then
-uncover.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Canaries</b>: A long body and thick smooth
-plumage are marks of a good canary. Males
-only sing. Coat color varies. German canaries
-show many shades of yellow besides mottled
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>tints. Yellow-red Norwich birds owe
-their giddy coats to red pepper in the food.
-Unless it is given liberally at moulting-time
-their fine feathers come back dull and pale.
-Birds are in full song at a year old. Younger,
-they have rarely been well taught. The range
-of life is seven to twenty years; the last is
-possible only with exceptional birds and still
-more exceptional care.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Teach canaries to deserve the freedom of the
-room. It helps in many ways. Leave the cage
-door open; do not coax him out nor force him
-in except as a last resort. Rather let hunger
-take him back. He will learn quickly and
-enjoy flying about.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>A metal cage with a movable floor is the
-one to choose. Wood invites vermin and harbors
-it distressingly. Hang where it is neither
-hot nor cold, away from draughts, but with air
-plenty. Feed regularly, but do not overfeed.
-Hemp seed are so fattening they must be given
-sparingly. The regular bird seed sold in
-packages is excellent if fresh. A dull appearance
-is against it; canary seed when not stale
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>is shiny. Empty and fill the seed cup daily,
-clean the floor, and put down fresh gravel, red
-and white. Keep cuttlefish bone suspended in
-the cage, and put in daily some fresh bit of
-green. Lettuce will answer, but chickweed and
-peppergrass are better. A pod of Cayenne
-pepper is good in sharp weather. So is a little
-hard-boiled egg, lightly dusted with red pepper,
-or bread crumbs squeezed out of milk and
-similarly dusted. A droopy bird showing
-signs of diarrhea should have black-pepper
-tea to drink, else a strip of fat pork rolled
-in ground pepper hung where it can be
-pecked.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Fill the bath every morning. If a bird picks
-himself after bathing put a few drops of rose
-water or cologne in the bath. Bare spots from
-the picking should be rubbed very lightly with
-sulphur and butter, putting also a little under
-the wings and back of the neck. Ragged plumage
-may mean a hardened oil gland. It lies
-just at the root of the tail and furnishes oil
-for the coat. Look at it, blowing aside covering
-feathers. If swollen and inflamed, drop
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>on warm, weak suds from a medicine dropper,
-dry very gently, and apply a little vaseline.
-Repeat daily until the gland frees itself of the
-cake.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>Trim nails discreetly, holding to the light
-so as to miss the tiny vein in them. If cut,
-hold the bleeding foot a minute in tepid
-water, dry, and touch the cut with vaseline.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'>If breeding, separate the pair when brooding
-begins. Afterward let both feed the young.
-Provide soft food twice a day—bread crumbs
-soaked in milk, scraped apple, mashed hard-boiled
-egg yolk, in addition to seed and bird
-manna. As soon as it is safe move the whole
-family into a fresh, clean cage, and scald and
-fumigate the other. Mites, the bane of canaries,
-multiply amazingly. They would be invisible
-but for their blood color. Feeding
-by day, they quit their prey at night. Throw
-a sheet of Canton flannel over cages suspected,
-remove it quickly by lamplight, and plunge in
-boiling water. Mites will show on it after
-death. If they are plenty, shift to a clean cage
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>at once and repeat the cloth treatment until
-all are destroyed. Infested cages should be,
-after scalding, drenched with gasolene and
-aired for a week. Scalding with bichloride is
-also effectual; it must be followed by a scalding
-in clear, boiling water and a fortnight of
-airing.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Parrots</b>: If the parrot is for company get a
-gray African—they make the best talkers and
-are best tempered. For decoration get the
-scarlet-crested white fellows, or the yellow and
-green, or blue and scarlet and yellow. Treatment
-of either is the same; feed fruit, nuts,
-grain, a little meat, insects, bread, especially
-cornbread, and cereals cooked stiff. Parrots
-learn quickly to eat and drink with their
-owners. Coffee in moderation is good for
-them, but they must have water besides. Some
-thrive better for drinking milk; indeed, the
-creatures are almost uncannily human in many
-things. Let them bathe at discretion, provide
-also a dust bath. Have a roomy cage, a tall,
-branchy perch, and a hoop swing. Never tease
-nor tantalize; parrots are cross enough without;
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>also jealous. Do not leave free in the
-room with a small child. Their beaks are
-cruelly sharp. Lacking insects, give small
-lumps of raw mutton fat. Keep everything
-about them very clean.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>XII<br /> <br />IN EMERGENCIES</h2>
-</div>
-<p class='c013'><b>Chimney Blazes</b>: Smother blazing chimneys
-by throwing salt, damp if possible, on the
-fire, and setting something flat against the
-chimney breast.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Blazing Fat</b>: Throw on salt, sand, or ashes;
-water makes the flame fiercer. Prevent
-draughts if possible; keep doors and windows
-shut tight. Turn out oil or gas flames underneath,
-and keep everything inflammable away
-from the blaze.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Gas Leaks</b>: Open doors and windows, let
-accumulations blow out, then hunt for the
-broken pipe—not with a lamp or candle—and
-clap on it when found either a blanket of putty
-or flour dough wet very stiff. Tie in place
-with broad tape, then wrap with a cloth so as
-to withstand pressure. But first of all call for
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>the repair man. With a leak undiscoverable,
-shut off from the rest of the house and leave
-windows wide open.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Asphyxiation</b>: Whether from gas or drowning,
-lay flat, the head a little higher; permit no
-crowding; resort to artificial respiration—lifting
-the arms and pressing on the chest systematically,
-holding the tongue out all the
-while; rub with alcohol, especially feet and
-hands; keep in air, and work gently but
-quickly. In cases of drowning, empty lungs
-of water first thing by laying face down over
-a bench or barrel and working the arms.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Fainting</b>: Lay flat, the head lower than
-the body, loosen clothes, especially about the
-neck, dash cold water gently in the face, hold
-ammonia under nostrils, rub wrists and temples
-with camphor or cologne water, and if the
-faint persists put mustard at the back of the
-neck and to the soles of the feet. Insensibility
-from shock or falling needs slightly different
-treatment. It may mean concussion;
-hence, let the head be highest and apply
-vigorous friction along the spine as well as to
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>the extremities. Stimulate as soon as swallowing
-is possible, and move with caution.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Burns</b>: Anything which excludes air without
-tainting the wound or irritating it further
-helps a bad burn. Carron oil—a creamy mixture
-of lime water and sweet oil—applied with a
-feather, then covered with cotton, either batting
-or absorbent, gives a measure of relief and
-is also healing. Soft old linen coated with
-fresh egg-white laid on and allowed to dry
-soothes pain. Even a covering with dry flour,
-if nothing else is handy, is better than leaving
-the burn bare. But if at all serious, or even is
-shallow and wide spread, call a doctor instantly,
-meantime keeping up heart action with stimulants
-in small doses often repeated.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Breaks and Dislocations</b>: Lay a broken
-bone straight in a natural position upon a stout
-cardboard splint shaped to the limb and covered
-with cotton batting. Bandage limb and
-splint firmly together, working toward the
-trunk and keeping the bandage smooth but
-not too tight. Wet with arnica. This keeps
-down pain and inflammation, making the surgeon’s
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>work when he arrives easier for himself
-and his patient. Reduce dislocations as quickly
-as possible by stretching the hurt joint steadily
-and letting another person manipulate the
-hurt. Often the bone head will snap back in
-place at a touch; it remains then only to keep
-it in place. An hour’s delay would mean
-swelling to render the replacing much harder.
-Wrist and elbow joints in particular are kittle
-cattle if left to swell. First aid to them means
-many times preserving use and saving from
-lifelong disfigurement. But this first aid by no
-means suffices to make surgical care unnecessary.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Sprains and Strains</b>: Bandage tight, wet
-the bandages with cold water, and hold in an
-easy position. A sprained or strained ankle
-may be almost cured by plunging it into running
-water and keeping it there some time.
-Lift out occasionally, then replunge. Strains
-require rest and bandages. Wet the bandages
-with arnica. If there is muscle shrinkage
-later, rub morning and night with chloroform
-liniment after bathing with hot water and
-wiping dry.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span><b>Chloroform Poisoning</b>: Keep in motion
-in open air, dose with aromatic spirits of ammonia
-well diluted, and hold it undiluted to
-nostrils. Apply electricity to spine; this if
-conscious. If fallen into a stupor put ice to
-spine and top of head, hot water to feet, give
-hard friction with alcohol, or camphor on legs
-and arms. Use artificial respiration and
-stimulate gently. Friction or a mustard
-plaster over the heart is helpful. Let nothing
-bind or constrict anywhere, and do not cease
-your efforts at the first signs of lessening
-stupor.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Narcotic Poisoning</b>: For laudanum, morphine,
-or opium the treatment is the same.
-First a strong emetic—mustard and water as
-thick as pea soup is among the best. Follow
-it with black coffee as strong as possible. Give
-all the patient can be made to swallow at short
-intervals, keep him walking briskly, stripped
-to the waist, dash ice water on the spine,
-and tie ice to the back of the neck. Flagellate
-lightly on shoulders; the tingles help to rouse.
-Hold aromatic ammonia to his nose every half
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span>minute. If the coffee nauseates, give clear
-hot water after to make vomiting easy, then
-after ten minutes more coffee not quite so
-strong. Permit no stop for several hours; if
-excretories act properly the danger will then
-have been past. Electricity is useful, but not
-indispensable. In desperate cases use every
-means at hand.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Acid Poisoning</b>: Emollients are the antidotes
-for acids; emetics wrench and tear
-seared stomach tissues. No matter what the
-acid—sulphuric, carbolic, nitric, or oxalic—give
-something soft and smooth—raw eggs,
-cream, starch wet as thick as cream, melted
-lard or butter, olive oil, or even flour and water,
-followed after a few minutes with magnesia
-stirred thick in tepid water. Let the patient
-rest easily, hold ammonia to the nostrils, and
-put hot-water bags to the feet. Aim to keep
-up vitality under the shock to vital tissues. In
-such cases a minute means often the difference
-between life and death.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Iodine Poison</b>: Use emollients—the very
-best is thick cooked starch; it has a specific
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span>power to neutralize the drug. Olive oil is next
-best; it protects the coating of the stomach.
-But use anything above named rather than
-nothing. To let a case of poison go by default
-is against reason and humanity.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Arsenic</b>: Arsenic in all its forms is best
-fought with raw eggs, especially the whites,
-and sweet milk or cream. Give a strong
-emetic afterward, then, when it has acted, more
-eggs or milk. This should suffice unless the
-poison has been freely absorbed.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Ptomaine Poisoning</b>: Give an active
-emetic, followed by a cathartic; keep the
-patient warm, stimulate with brandy—a teaspoonful
-every hour; put mustard to wrists,
-ankles, back of neck, and pit of stomach—this
-particularly if there is severe pain, cramps,
-or continued retching. Pains in the head indicate
-the need of an ice cap.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Mercury Poisoning</b>: Bichloride needs as
-antidote raw eggs and cream, or oil, with the
-same external treatment as for ptomaines.
-Strong emetics are inadvisable, but if the
-stomach frees itself naturally of the emollients
-<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>much poison will come with them. Replace
-them in smaller quantities, but give nothing
-else until the doctor comes.</p>
-
-<p class='c014'><b>Bites and Stings</b>: Stings from wasps, bees,
-and ants need treatment with fruit acids—bathe
-in vinegar or apply a slice of raw apple
-or peach or a crushed grape. Instant sucking
-removes part of the poison and relieves the
-pain to a degree. Always suck bites, as of
-spiders, unless there are abrasions of tongue
-and lips. After sucking bathe freely with
-fresh peroxide of hydrogen, boracic acid, or
-sugar-of-lead water. A leaf of green plantain,
-well bruised, bound on a bite or sting when
-nothing else is at hand keeps down inflammation
-and mitigates pain. In case of stings make
-sure the sting proper has not been left in the
-wound, since its presence might induce blood
-poisoning.</p>
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<div class='chapter'>
-  <span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>
-  <h2 class='c008'>INDEX</h2>
-</div>
-<ul class='index c005'>
-  <li class='c015'><span class='sc'>Acid poisoning</span>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Adaptation of old garments, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Antidotes, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>-<a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Antique furniture, care of,  <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>restoring, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>-<a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ants, how to get rid of, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Aprons, laundry, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Arsenic, antidote for, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Asphalt spots, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Asphyxiation, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Bandages</span>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>-<a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Basting clothes, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bed bugs, to prevent, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bed clothes, mending, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Beef, how to choose, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bichloride of mercury, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Birds, care of, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bisulphide of lime, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bites and stings, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Blanket box, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Blazing fat, how to put out, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bleaching, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>-<a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Blood, to stanch, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>-<a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bluestone, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Books, mending, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Borax, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bordeaux mixture, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Buckwheat flour, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Burlaps, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Burns, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Butter, how to choose, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Brass, care of, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Breaks and dislocations, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bric-à-brac, mending, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Brick dust, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Bronze, care of, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Brooms, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Broom bags, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Brushes, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Cake</span>, how to keep, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Calcimine, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Canaries, care of, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Canning, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Carpets, cleaning, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>-<a href='#Page_30'>30</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>mending, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cats, care of, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cavies, care of, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ceilings, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>-<a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cement, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>-<a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Charcoal, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cheese, how to choose and keep, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Chimney blazes, how to put out, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>China, mending,  <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>washing, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'><span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>Chloride-of-lime water, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Chloroform poisoning, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cleaning floors and rugs, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>-<a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cloth, washing, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Clothes drainer, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Coarse mending, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Coffee, how to choose and keep, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Collars, how to do up, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>-<a href='#Page_7'>7</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Contagion, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>-<a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Copper, care of, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Copperas, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Copperas water, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cornmeal, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cottons, testing, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cracks, filling, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cretonne, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cuffs, how to do up, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>-<a href='#Page_7'>7</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Curtains, how to do up, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>-<a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cutting out clothes, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Cuttings, to start plant, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Darning</span>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Disinfection, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Disinfectants, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>-<a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Dogs, care of, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Dust cloths, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Dust swabs, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Dyeing, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Earth worms</span>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Eggs, how to test, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Emergencies, what to do in, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>-<a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Enameled iron, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Fainting</span>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ferns, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Fertilizers, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Fillers for new wood, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Fleas, how to prevent, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Flies, how to prevent, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Floors, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>-<a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Floor pad, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Flour, how to test, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Flowers, how to keep and arrange cut flowers, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Foot pad, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>French polish, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Frocks, how to wash, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Fruit, dried, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Fruit stains, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Fruit storage, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Furniture, mending,  <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>polish, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Furs, mending,  <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>cleaning, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Garden pests</span>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Gas leak, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Gasolene-cleaning, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Gelatine spots, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Gilt, to clean,  <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>frames,  <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>;</li>
-      <li>furniture, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Glass, annealing,  <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>mending,  <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>;</li>
-      <li>preserving in,  <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>;</li>
-      <li>washing, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>-<a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Glazing, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Gloves, care of, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Glue, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Grass stains, what to do for, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Grease spots, what to do for, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Grits, how to test, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Gum arabic, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Hares</span>, how to keep, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Hominy, how to test, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span><span class='sc'>Ice</span>, to keep in sickroom, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ice-cream spots, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ink stains, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Insects, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>-<a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Insecticides, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>-<a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Iodine poison, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Iron, rust,  <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>care of, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Irons, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ironstone, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ironing-boards, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ironing-tables, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Javelle water</span>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Kerosene emulsion</span>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Knee pad, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Knives and forks, how to clean, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Lace and embroidery</span>, how to wash,  <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>how to mend,  <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>;</li>
-      <li>how to freshen, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Lamps and candlesticks, mending, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Lard, how to test, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Larkspur, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Laundry cabinet, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Lead swab, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Lime water, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Linen, testing, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Mahogany stain</span>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Majolica, how to wash, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Materials, appliquéd, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Matted floors, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Matting, mending, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Meat, how to keep fresh. <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Melons, keeping, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mending, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>-<a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mercury poisoning, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mildew, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Millinery, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mission furniture, care of, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mordants, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>-<a href='#Page_4'>4</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mosquitoes, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Moths, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mucilage, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mustard plasters, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Mutton and lamb, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Narcotic poisoning</span>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Nursing, clothes for, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Oak furniture</span>, care of, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Oak stains, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Oatmeal, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Oil stains, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Old garments, ways to use, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ornaments for millinery, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Oxalic acid, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Pads</span>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Paint, to remove, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Palms, how to care for, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Pantries, outdoor, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Paper dough, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Papering, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>-<a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Parrots, care of, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Paste for paper-hanging, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Perspiration marks, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Pets, care of, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>-<a href='#Page_191'>191</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Pewter, how to clean, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Piano polish, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'><span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>Pine needles, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Plants, care of,  <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>for window boxes, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Plaster, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Poisons, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>-<a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Polish, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Porch furniture, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Pork, how to choose, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Pots, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Potting, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Poultices, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Poultry,  <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>how to keep, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Precautions, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Pressing, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Ptomaine poisoning, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Putty, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Quicklime</span>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Roaches</span>, how to get rid of, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Road stains, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Roses, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Rugs, cleaning,  <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>mending, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Rust, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Salt fish</span>, how to keep, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Salt meats, how to choose, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Sand, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Saving pieces of material, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Sawdust, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Scrubbing, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Shellac, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Shirts, how to do up, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>-<a href='#Page_6'>6</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Sickbed, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Sickroom, care of, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>-<a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Silk, testing,  <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>washing, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Silk wall covering, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Silver tarnish, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Size, glue and vegetable, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Smoke stains, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Soap, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>-<a href='#Page_2'>2</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Soil for house plants, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Spots, how to get rid of, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>-<a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Sprains and strains, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Sprinklers, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Stains, oil,  <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>mahogany,  <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>;</li>
-      <li>walnut,  <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>;</li>
-      <li>oak,  <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>;</li>
-      <li>road,  <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>;</li>
-      <li>fruit,  <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>;</li>
-      <li>wine,  <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>;</li>
-      <li>ink,  <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>;</li>
-      <li>grass,  <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>;</li>
-      <li>smoke, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Staining floors, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>-<a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Starches, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>-<a href='#Page_8'>8</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Table linen</span>, how to wash, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>-<a href='#Page_5'>5</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Tar spots, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Tea, how to choose, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Tile floors, how to clean, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Tool box, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Trimmings, care of, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Upholstered furniture</span>, care of, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Varnish</span>, to remove,  <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>spots, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Vegetable storage, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Velvet, freshening, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Vitriol, white, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c005'><span class='sc'>Walls</span>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>-<a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Wall mop, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'><span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>Wall paper, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>-<a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Walnut stain, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Washing, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>-<a href='#Page_12'>12</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Washing, china and glass, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>-<a href='#Page_61'>61</a>;
-    <ul>
-      <li>knives and forks, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.</li>
-    </ul>
-  </li>
-  <li class='c015'>Washing fluids, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Washing-soda, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Water, to soften, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Water bugs, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Water wagon, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Wax, dancing, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Wax board, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Wax finish, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Wax spots, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Waxing floors, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Whitewash, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Whitewashed walls, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Wicker furniture, care of, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Windows, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Window boxes, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Wine stains, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Woolens, how to wash, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li>
-  <li class='c015'>Woolens, testing, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.</li>
-</ul>
-
-<div class='nf-center-c0'>
-<div class='nf-center c005'>
-    <div>THE END</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class='pbb'>
- <hr class='pb c005' />
-</div>
-<p class='c014'>&nbsp;</p>
-<div class='tnbox'>
-
- <ul class='ul_1 c005'>
-    <li>Transcriber’s Notes:
-      <ul  class='ul_2'>
-        <li>Some chapter headings had the word CHAPTER before the roman numeral, some didn’t.
-        </li>
-        <li>Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
-        </li>
-        <li>Typographical errors were silently corrected.
-        </li>
-        <li>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant 
-        form was found in this book.
-        </li>
-      </ul>
-    </li>
-  </ul>
-
-</div>
-<p class='c014'>&nbsp;</p>
-
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