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diff --git a/65014-0.txt b/65014-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..20cda1b --- /dev/null +++ b/65014-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,18746 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 65014 *** + + THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE + + OF SCOTLAND + + FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE + SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. + + + + + _Edinburgh: Printed by George Waterston & Sons_ + + FOR + + DAVID DOUGLAS + + LONDON, SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, AND CO., LIMITED + CAMBRIDGE, MACMILLAN AND BOWES + GLASGOW, JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS + + + + + THE + ECCLESIASTICAL + ARCHITECTURE + OF SCOTLAND + + FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE + SEVENTEENTH CENTURY + + + BY + DAVID MACGIBBON AND THOMAS ROSS + AUTHORS OF “THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND” + + _VOLUME THREE_ + + [Illustration] + + EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS + MDCCCXCVII + + _All rights reserved._ + + + + +PREFACE. + + +In issuing the concluding Volume of this work, we take the opportunity +to notice some points in the previous portions which have given rise to +discussion. + +In Vol. I. p. 297 we express disagreement with Mr. W. Galloway’s opinion +regarding the age of the chancel walls of St. Blane’s, Bute. Mr. +Galloway having asked for an opportunity of defending his views, we have +pleasure in publishing his observations in the Appendix to this Volume. + +Reference is made in Vol. II. p. 172 to Mr. T. L. Watson’s theory +regarding the vaulting of the lower church in St. Mungo’s Cathedral, +Glasgow. Having recently had the privilege, on the invitation of Mr. P. +Macgregor Chalmers, of attending a meeting on the spot, when the usually +obscure edifice was well lit up, and when it was shown by Mr. Chalmers +that the points on which Mr. Watson based his opinion were untenable, we +see no reason to believe that the beautiful design of the vaulting and +the plan of the shrine were ever intended to be carried out in a mode +different from that in which they are executed. + +When treating of Melrose Abbey (Vol. II. p. 378) we ventured to +criticise the views expressed by Mr. Chalmers in his work, _A Scots +Mediæval Architect_. As Mr. Chalmers has been kind enough to approach us +directly, taking exception to our remarks, we are glad to afford him, in +an Appendix to this Volume, the opportunity he desires of stating his +defence of his views. + +Mr. Chalmers has done good service in drawing attention to some examples +of Scottish mediæval architecture of a late date, which show a +remarkable revival in point of design when compared with the general +architecture of the country at the time. + +From the series of examples given in this Volume there can scarcely be +any question as to the gradual deterioration of ecclesiastical +architecture which occurred generally throughout Scotland during the +latter half of the fifteenth and the first half of the sixteenth +centuries, and it is certainly surprising to find some exceptionally +good work in a few structures of that period. Amongst these is the aisle +of Car Fergus, in Glasgow Cathedral, the vaulting of which building is +of about the date of 1500, as is evident from its containing several +specimens of Archbishop Blacader’s arms. The work is not all equal, but +the vaulting has the groining (a rare kind of construction in Scotland +at the period) well executed, and the bosses show a wonderful amount and +variety of design. Some of the latter (such as that in the illustration +kindly supplied by Mr. Chalmers in the Appendix) are admirable. + +Mr. Chalmers has brought forward a considerable amount of evidence +regarding the rood screen in St. Mungo’s, which point to its being an +exceptionally fine specimen of late pointed work. The vaulting and some +other portions of the presbytery of Melrose Abbey are also classed by +Mr. Chalmers in the same category. + +The subject is an interesting one, and all students of Scottish +architecture must feel indebted to Mr. Chalmers for drawing special +attention to it. We trust the point will be further investigated. + +There is one consideration connected with this revival to which we would +draw attention, viz., that mentioned in the text (Vol. III. pp. 6 and 7) +that a certain excellence in the carving and the design of the smaller +features of the architecture observable in the later work may have been +due to the foreign artists introduced at the time. We might, in view of +the above circumstances, have given this remark a wider scope, so as to +apply to such works as those above referred to and similar examples. + +There is abundant evidence in the Exchequer Rolls that French +master-masons were employed by James IV. and V. Thus the Merliouns,[1] a +distinguished family of French master-masons, were in the royal service +at Stirling in 1496, and members of the family are found at Linlithgow, +Dunbar, Ravenscraig, Perth Church, &c. Latterly the king’s _French +master-mason_ became a regular court appointment, and the office was +held by several Frenchmen.[2] + +This importation of foreign artists may perhaps account for some of the +exceptionally good examples, especially in connection with places +favoured by royalty; but a good deal of time would necessarily elapse +before such work could become general. Hence the revival was limited, +while the architecture generally gradually deteriorated or changed to +Renaissance. + +The monument of Bishop Kennedy, in St. Salvator’s, St. Andrews (a design +undoubtedly superior to the general Scottish work of the period), is +probably a French example, both in design and execution.[3] + +Mr. Chalmers lays stress on the influence of Queen Margaret’s marriage +to James IV. as probably having produced some of the imitations of +English perpendicular work found at Melrose and Linlithgow, and this may +possibly have been the case. + +In a review of Vol. II. in the _Glasgow Herald_ attention was drawn to +an error in the description of St. Andrews Cathedral (p. 31), where the +restored illustration (Fig. 453) shows a single central shaft in the +windows of the chapter house, instead of two coupled shafts. The shafts +are gone, but the two bases are still traceable. + + * * * * * + +We have to thank the numerous clergymen, proprietors, custodians, and +others, to whom it has been necessary to apply for permission to visit +the various churches, for their assistance, which was always freely +given. Our acknowledgments are also due to those gentlemen who have +kindly continued their contributions to our work in the form of drawings +and descriptions of churches, especially to Mr. T. S. Robertson, Dundee, +and Mr. William Galloway, Whithorn. Mr. R. Weir Schultz, London; Mr. +John W. Small, Stirling; Mr. F. R. Coles, Edinburgh, and others have +also been good enough to furnish us with several drawings and +descriptions for this Volume, as is noted in the text. + +To the Librarians of the Advocates’ Library and the University Library +of Edinburgh, and the Keeper of the National Museum of the Antiquaries +of Scotland, we are greatly indebted for their valuable assistance. + +We desire, further, to express our obligation to Mr. Alexander Ross, +architect, Inverness, and Mr. R. Bruce Armstrong, for permission to use +illustrations from their published works; and to Mr. W. Rae Macdonald, +Edinburgh, and Mr. R. C. Walker, Dundee, for their aid in connection +with the heraldry of the buildings and monuments. + + EDINBURGH, _October 1897_. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + +Third or Late Pointed Period--Gradual transition from Middle Pointed +Style--Inferior, but peculiarly Scottish--Middle Pointed buildings +large and complete--Large Late Pointed examples, chiefly restorations +and collegiate, and designed as single chambers without aisles--Some +designed as cross churches, but often unfinished--Characteristic +features--Eastern three-sided apse and pointed barrel vault, with +stone roof--Groins avoided, and contrivances in lieu thereof--Windows +low--Surface vaulting instead of ribs generally used, but ribs +sometimes applied to surface--Examples--Stone roofs carefully +wrought--Independent invention--Examples of groined vaults--Decorated +barrel vault, and straight arches at Rosslyn--Forms of buttresses, +pinnacles, windows, tracery, &c.--Influences of Late English and French +Gothic--Doorways, porches, arms, central towers--Monuments--Figure +carving--Sacrament houses and smaller features well executed, perhaps +the work of French artists--Collegiate churches spread over the whole +country--Parish churches converted into collegiate churches, 1-7 + + +DESCRIPTIONS OF BUILDINGS. + +Paisley Abbey (_Cluniac_), Renfrewshire, 7 + +Dunkeld Cathedral (St. Columba’s), Perthshire, 28 + +Iona Cathedral (_Cluniac_ Abbey), Argyleshire, 47 + +St. Machar’s Cathedral, Old Aberdeen, 75 + +Trinity College Church, Edinburgh, Mid-Lothian, 89 + +Parish Church of St. John the Baptist, Perth, Perthshire, 104 + +Do. Dundee, Forfarshire, 123 + +Glenluce Abbey (_Cistercian_), Wigtonshire, 132 + +Parish Church of Torphichen, Linlithgowshire, 139 + +St. Anthony’s Chapel, Edinburgh, Mid-Lothian, 145 + +Collegiate Church of St. Matthew, Rosslyn, Do. 149 + +Do. St. Mary, Dunglass, Haddingtonshire, 179 + +Parish Church of St. Marnan, Fowlis Easter, Perthshire, 189 + +Collegiate Church of St. Salvator, St. Andrews, Fifeshire, 199 + +Do. St. Nicholas, Dalkeith, Mid-Lothian, 205 + +Parish Church of St. Mungo, Borthwick, Do. 214 + +Do. Our Lady, Ladykirk, Berwickshire, 218 + +Collegiate Church of St. Mary and Holy +Cross, Seton, Haddingtonshire, 223 + +Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott, Kincardineshire, 235 + +Do. Saints Mary and Kentigern, +Crichton, Mid-Lothian, 243 + +Collegiate Church of St. John the Baptist, +Corstorphine, Do. 250 + +Collegiate Church of St. Macrubha, Crail, Fifeshire, 263 + +Parish Church of St. Mary, Whitekirk, Haddingtonshire, 269 + +Do. Mid-Calder, Mid-Lothian, 279 + +King’s College Chapel, Old Aberdeen, 287 + +Church of the Carmelite Friars (St. Mary’s), +South Queensferry, Linlithgowshire, 296 + +Collegiate Church of St. Bothan, Yester, Haddingtonshire, 309 + +Parish Church of the Holy Rood, Stirling, Stirlingshire, 315 + +Collegiate Church of St. Saviour, Tullibardine, Perthshire, 330 + +Do. St. Mary, Maybole, Ayrshire, 338 + +Do. St. Mary, Biggar, Lanarkshire, 343 + +Do. Carnwath, Do. 349 + +Do. St. Mary, Castle Semple, Renfrewshire, 351 + +Church of the Franciscans or Greyfriars, Elgin, Morayshire, 356 + +Do. do. do. Aberdeen, Aberdeenshire, 358 + +Church of the Priory of St. Clement, Rowdil, +Harris, Inverness-shire, 363 + +Church of the Priory of St. Oran or St. +Columba, Oronsay, Argyleshire, 372 + +Font of Church of St. Maelrubba, Skye, Inverness-shire, 381 + + +EXAMPLES ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY BY COUNTIES. + +ABERDEENSHIRE. + +Church of Kinkell, 383 + +Do. Kintore, 386 + +Chapel of St. Adamnan, Leask, 387 + + +ARGYLESHIRE. + +Church of St. John the Baptist, Ardchattan, 389 + +Collegiate Church of St. Mund, Kilmun, 390 + + +AYRSHIRE. + +Alloway Kirk, 393 + +Parish Church of Old Dailly, 394 + +Do. Straiton, 396 + +BANFFSHIRE. + +Collegiate Church of St. Mary, Cullen, 398 + +Parish Church of St. John Evangelist, Deskford, 406 + +Do. St. Bean, Mortlach, 408 + + +BERWICKSHIRE. + +Church of Abbey St. Bathans (Cistercian Nuns), 410 + +Parish Church of Our Lady, Bassendean, 412 + +Do. Cockburnspath, 413 + +Do. Preston, 416 + + +BUTESHIRE. + +Church of St Mary’s Abbey, Rothesay, 418 + + +DUMBARTONSHIRE. + +Parish Church and Collegiate Church of St. Mary, Dumbarton, 423 + +Chapel at Kirkton of Kilmahew (St. Mahew), 426 + + +DUMFRIESSHIRE. + +Canonby Priory (Austin Canons), Fragment of, 431 + +Parish Church of Kirkbryde, 431 + +Church of St. Cuthbert, Moffat, 433 + +Do. Sanquhar, 435 + + +FIFESHIRE. + +Parish Church of Carnock, 436 + +Do. St. Serf, Dysart, 437 + +Do. St. Monan, Kilconquhar, 441 + +Do. St. Irenaeus, Kilrenny, 442 + +Do. Rosyth, 444 + +Church of the Dominicans or Blackfriars, St. Andrews, 445 + +Do. St. Leonard’s College, St. Andrews, 448 + +Do. the Holy Trinity, St. Andrews, 451 + + +FORFARSHIRE. + +Parish Church of Airlie, 452 + +Do. Invergowrie, 454 + +Do. Mains, 455 + +Do. Maryton, 456 + +Do. Pert, 458 + +Do. St. Vigean’s, 459 + + +HADDINGTONSHIRE. + +Church of the Red or Trinity Friars, Dunbar, 462 + +Parish Church of St. Maelrubba, Keith, 465 + + +KINCARDINESHIRE. + +Church of St. Palladius, Fordoun, 468 + +KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. + +Church of Old Girthon, 469 + + +LANARKSHIRE. + +Priory of Blantyre (Austin Canons), 470 + +Parish Church of St. Michael, Covington, 472 + + +LINLITHGOWSHIRE. + +Parish Church of Auldcathie, 474 + + +MID-LOTHIAN. + +Collegiate Church of St. Triduan, Restalrig, 475 + + +PEEBLESSHIRE. + +Parish Church of Newlands, 479 + +Holy Cross Church, Peebles, 482 + +Church of St. Andrew, Peebles, 485 + + +PERTHSHIRE. + +Parish Church of St. Cathan, Aberuthven, 485 + +Church of St. Moloc, Alyth, 487 + +Do. St. Mechessock, Auchterarder, 488 + +Do. Cambusmichael, 489 + +Abbey of Coupar (Cistercian), 491 + +Parish Church of Dron, 497 + +Church of Ecclesiamagirdle or Exmagirdle, or Glenearn, 499 + +Parish Church of Forgandenny, 500 + +Abbey of Inchaffray (Austin Canons), 502 + +Collegiate Church of Innerpeffray, 507 + +Parish Church of Kinfauns, 513 + +Do. Meigle, Font of, 517 + +Collegiate Church of Methven, 519 + +Chapel of Moncrieff, 521 + +Parish Church of Wast-town, 522 + + +RENFREWSHIRE. + +Parish Church of Renfrew (Monument), 525 + +Parish Churches of Houston, St. Fillan’s, and Kilmalcolm, 527 + + +SELKIRKSHIRE. + +Parish Church of Selkirk, 529 + + +WIGTONSHIRE. + +Parish Church of St. Machutus, Wigton, 533 + + + + +CHURCHES OF THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES. + + PAGE + +Mediæval Architecture terminated with the Reformation, 1560--Under +James I. and Charles I. and II. a revival attempted--Two +styles practised, one plain, the other somewhat ornate--Specimens +of each--Influence of Domestic Architecture on +Ecclesiastical--Picturesque examples, 534 + + +The following churches of this period are arranged in alphabetical +order:-- + +Parish Church of St. Drostan, Aberdour, Aberdeenshire, 535 + +Parish Churches of Anstruther, Easter and +Wester, Fifeshire, 536 + +Parish Church of St. Mary, Auchterhouse, Forfarshire, 541 + +Do. Aytoun, Berwickshire, 543 + +Do. Ballingry, Fifeshire, 543 + +Do. Blair, Blair-Atholl, Perthshire, 544 + +Do. St. Brandan, Boyndie, Banffshire, 545 + +Do. St. Michael, Cupar, Fifeshire, 547 + +Do. St. Bridget, Dalgety, Do. 549 + +Do. St. John, Dalry, Kirkcudbrightshire, 551 + +Do. Drainie and Michael Kirk, Morayshire, 553 + +Do. Durness, Sutherlandshire, 557 + +Do. St. Cuthbert, East Calder, Mid-Lothian, 559 + +Parish Churches of Eassie and Nevay (St. +Neveth), Forfarshire, 560 + +Pulpit from St. Cuthbert’s Church, Edinburgh, Mid-Lothian, 562 + +Parish Church of St. Cavan, Fetteresso, Kincardineshire, 562 + +Chapel of Fordel, Fifeshire, 565 + +Parish Church of Garvald, Haddingtonshire, 567 + +Do. St. John, Gamrie, Banffshire, 567 + +Do. Gladsmuir, Haddingtonshire, 569 + +Steeple of the Tron Church, Glasgow, Lanarkshire, 571 + +Chapel of St Mary, &c., Grandtully, Perthshire, 571 + +Parish Church of Greenlaw, Berwickshire, 574 + +Do. Insch, Aberdeenshire, 575 + +Do. Kemback, Fifeshire, 576 + +Do. Kilmaurs, Glencairn Monument +at, Ayrshire, 577 + +Do. Kinneil, Linlithgowshire, 578 + +Do. St. Bean’s, Kinkell, Perthshire, 579 + +Do. Kinnoull, Monument in, Do. 580 + +Parish Church of Kirkoswald, Ayrshire, 582 + +Do. Lauder, Berwickshire, 582 + +Do. Leswalt, Wigtonshire, 585 + +Do. St. Colm, Lonmay, Aberdeenshire, 587 + +Do. Loudoun, Galston, Ayrshire, 587 + +Do. Lyne, Peeblesshire, 589 + +Do. Morham, Haddingtonshire, 591 + +Do. St. Fiacre or Fittack, Nigg, Kincardineshire, 592 + +Do. Oldhamstocks, Berwickshire, 594 + +Do. St. Giles’, Ormiston, Haddingtonshire, 596 + +Church of the Priory of Pittenweem, Fifeshire, 599 + +Parish Church of Polwarth, Berwickshire, 601 + +Do. Prestonpans, Heraldic +Panel from, Haddingtonshire, 602 + +Do. St. Ethernan or Eddran, +Rathan, Aberdeenshire, 604 + +Chapel and Castle of Southannan, West +Kilbride, Ayrshire, 607 + +Parish Church of Stenton, Haddingtonshire, 609 + +Do. Stow, Mid-Lothian, 611 + +Church at Terregles, Kirkcudbrightshire, 615 + +Parish Church of St. Congan, Turriff, Aberdeenshire, 615 + +Do. Walston, Lanarkshire, 617 + +Do. Weem, Perthshire, 619 + +Do. Yester, Haddingtonshire, 622 + +Specimen of Early Sculpture from Forteviot, Perthshire, 623 + + +APPENDIX, 625 + + + + + THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND + + FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. + + VOLUME III. + + + + +THIRD OR LATE POINTED PERIOD. + + +In passing from the Middle Pointed to the Late Pointed periods in +Scotland, we do not find any distinct break in the style of architecture +such as exists between the First and Second Pointed periods. The middle +pointed style passes by gentle gradation into the late pointed style, +and there is some difficulty in fixing the period when the one ceases +and the other begins. When buildings such as Melrose Abbey and Lincluden +College are compared with Dunglass, Corstorphine, and other collegiate +churches of the late period, the difference of style is very apparent, +and it is at once seen that these edifices belong to different +categories. But between such examples as Haddington Church and Paisley +Abbey the distinction of style is not at first sight so striking. It is +only when the whole character of the architecture is considered that it +can be determined to which category each structure belongs. Although the +line of division is thus to a certain extent arbitrary, there are some +characteristics of the third pointed period which are peculiar to it, +and render it a distinct and well marked epoch. This period, although +inferior in many respects to those which preceded it, yet comprises more +than any other certain elements which give it a claim to be considered +peculiarly Scottish and national. + +Many of the structures described in Vol II. as belonging (in part at +least) to the decorated period bear some resemblance to those of the +same style in England. These edifices are mostly of considerable size, +and contain all the usual divisions of choir, nave, and transept, nearly +always with aisles. They are also generally vaulted with groined vaults, +having wooden roofs above the vaults. The details of the buildings are +likewise of similar character in both localities. + +As in the preceding period, the large churches of the third pointed +period in Scotland are nearly all restorations. No new churches of great +size were undertaken. Some of the older large churches which had been +damaged were reconstructed, but the new churches erected were almost +entirely confined to parish or collegiate structures. The largest new +church is that of Trinity College in Edinburgh, founded by the widowed +queen of James II. Only a few of the larger of these churches have +aisles, and are roofed with groined vaulting. + +Most of the new edifices of the late pointed style in Scotland differ +from those in England in many particulars. The Scottish churches are, as +already stated, usually smaller in size, and consist of single +compartments without aisles. Although frequently designed as cross +churches, with choir, nave, and transepts, they are rarely finished, the +choir or the choir and transepts being often the only portions carried +out. The east end frequently terminates with a three-sided apse. This +feature is almost entirely characteristic of the late pointed period. It +undoubtedly owes its origin to the Scottish alliance and intercourse +with France. But the leading and distinguishing feature of our late +pointed style is the vaulting, the pointed barrel vault being almost +universally employed. We have seen that a pointed barrel vault was used +at Lincluden and Bothwell collegiate churches. It was, however, in the +later edifices, after the middle of the fifteenth century, that that +form of vault came into general use. This kind of arch was of simple +construction, and was much employed in the castles of the period, being +found convenient--first, because it was of easy construction; and +second, because it could conveniently carry a roof composed of +overlapping stones. This style of roof had the double advantage of being +fireproof, and in the case of the castles, where it was often kept flat, +of forming a platform from which the defenders could operate. + +It has already been pointed out[4] that many features of domestic +architecture were at this time imported into ecclesiastical +architecture, and the above feature of the pointed barrel vault carrying +a stone roof is the first and most important. + +In carrying out this kind of vaulting in churches, several difficulties +were encountered and had to be overcome. The most serious of these +difficulties was the junction of the transepts, or side chapels, with +the choir and nave. In the earlier Gothic churches this was managed by +running the vault of the transepts or chapels into that of the nave, and +forming a groin at the intersection. But the peculiarity of the late +Scottish churches is that they carefully avoid all groins and +intersections of arches. The junction of the vaults at the above +intersections is, therefore, managed by a special contrivance, viz., by +keeping the barrel vaults of the transepts or chapels quite apart from +those of the central nave, the side vaults being stopped on gables +carried up on arches in the line of the main side walls to receive them. +The main nave vault is thus carried throughout the whole length of the +central nave without a break, and where the opening into the transepts +or chapels occurs, the main vault rests on an arch thrown across the +side openings in the line of the main walls, and at a level below the +springing of the main vault. The outer stone roofs of the transepts are +also kept independent of that of the central nave, and do not mitre into +it. + +The windows of these churches, which have nearly always pointed +arch-heads, are necessarily placed at a low level, so as to allow the +point of the arch-head to come beneath the spring of the main vault. +This is done so as to avoid even a small groin, such as would be +required if the window arch-head were carried up into the main vault. +The object is two-fold--first, to escape the difficulty of the +intersection of the vaults; and second, to avoid the small gablets over +the windows and the small stone roofs and valleys which would be +required at the junction of these with the main external stone roofs. +The above features are all well exemplified at Ladykirk, Seton College, +Corstorphine, and many other churches. + +It should be borne in mind that the vaulting in England in the fifteenth +and sixteenth centuries had also to some extent reverted to the plan of +relying chiefly for strength on plain surface vaulting, and not on the +ribs as in the earlier period. The example from Winchester Cathedral[5] +helps to explain this. The intersection of the vaults is there very +slight, and the numerous ribs introduced are almost all used +ornamentally. This is also the case in the fan vaulting, so common in +England in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, in which the ribs or +tracery are applied as ornaments on the surface of the vaults. + +Ornamental ribs are not uncommon in Scottish roofs. An early example, +somewhat similar to that at Winchester, still exists over the presbytery +of Melrose Abbey, where the intersection of the vaults is almost +entirely abandoned, and numerous ornamental surface ribs are introduced. +In later examples, however, the intersection of the vaults is completely +given up, and any ribs employed are useless except as ornaments. Such +are the roofs of St. Mirren’s Chapel, Paisley, and the choir of Seton +College. + +An example of the shifts the builders were put to in order to escape +intersecting vaults may be seen in the apse of Stirling Church. In other +examples, such as Dunglass and Queensferry, the nave, choir, and +transepts have walls carried up on the four sides of the crossing, +against which the pointed barrel vaults are stopped, and access is +furnished to the various arms of the church by small archways like +doorways in the walls. At Whitekirk the crossing is exceptional, having +a groined vault; but the choir, &c., have pointed barrel vaults, which +stop upon walls at the crossing. + +In the case of the apse of Linlithgow Church the difficulty of the +intersection of the apse with the choir vault was avoided by sticking on +the apse against the east end wall, like a large bow window. This +enabled the apse windows to be carried to a good height. Generally +speaking the windows in the apse are very low, being kept down below the +main arch, and admit little light, thus rendering the vault extremely +dark, as, for instance, at Seton Church. + +In most of the collegiate churches the barrel vaults supported a roof +composed of carefully wrought flag-stones. These stones are arranged in +courses, running from the eaves to the ridge, and every alternate course +is higher than, and rests on, the edges of the intermediate courses. +Each stone also overlaps the course which is below it in the slope of +the roof. There is thus a considerable amount of cutting and fitting +required, which is usually carefully executed. Sometimes each stone is +hollowed in the centre, so as to carry the water away from the joints. +The gutters are also wrought in stone on the same principle. Roofs of +this description might evidently be made almost level, and in the case +of many of the castles (as on the keep of Craigmillar Castle) that is +done, and a platform for defence is thus created. In the churches, +however, the stone roofs are usually pretty steep. + +It is remarkable that this form of roof was a reproduction in Scotland, +in the fifteenth century, of a fireproof form of construction which was +much used in Provence in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. But in this +country it was to all appearance an independent invention, as Provence +in the fifteenth century was, architecturally speaking, very remote, and +was cut off from Scotland by the intermediate styles of England and +France. + +It should be noted that the pointed barrel vault, although very general, +was not universally employed in Scotland during the third period. One or +two notable examples of well constructed groined vaults are to be found, +such as the vaulting of Trinity College Church and that of “Blackader’s +Aisle” in Glasgow Cathedral. But these are exceptions to the general +rule. + +In Rosslyn College we have the finest example of the late Scottish forms +of vaulting carried out to their fullest extent, together with some +exceptional designs. This church differs from most of the other +collegiate churches in having side aisles, and also in having groined +vaults in the east end. The plan of the latter portion of the building, +being copied from the arrangement at the east end of Glasgow Cathedral, +has been carried out with groining, in imitation of the original; but in +the other parts of the structure the vaulting conforms to that of the +third pointed period in Scotland. The main central roof is covered with +a continuous pointed barrel vault without a break, except an ornamental +rib over each division of the bays. The soffits of each panel of the +arch thus formed are carved with stars, fleur-de-lys, and other +enrichments. The side aisles are also covered with a series of pointed +barrel vaults. Each of these aisle vaults forms an extension of the main +pier arch of the choir, carried across the aisle at right angles to the +main choir. The Scottish plan of avoiding groins is thus adhered to. The +above arrangement of the aisle vaults also enables the aisle windows to +be carried up to a good height. The barrel vaults across the aisles rest +on flat arches (made to resemble straight lintels), which run between +the caps of the main piers and the responds against the walls. The whole +construction recalls that of a castle with a large central hall roofed +with a barrel vault, and having a series of side chambers entering off +it, each covered with its separate barrel vault running at right angles +to the main building. If the partitions between these side chambers were +removed, and plain arches or lintels substituted, the construction would +be exactly that of Rosslyn Church. Such a series of chambers, with +barrel vaults running at right angles to a passage, is of common +occurrence in the ground floors of the Scottish castles. An exceptional +feature connected with the main vault of Rosslyn Church is that the same +stones which form the interior arch also form the outside roof--the +usual overlapping stone covering being omitted, possibly to avoid the +extra weight. The exterior of the roof is thus curved like the interior. + +During the late pointed period many varieties of details were indulged +in. The buttresses are generally somewhat stunted. They are plain and +solid, and have often rather elaborate canopies and corbels for statues +placed on the front of the buttresses, without recessed niches. The +buttresses have frequently numerous set-offs, and are generally finished +with stunted square pinnacles having crocketed finials. The windows are +almost always pointed, and contain simple tracery derived from the +earlier styles. The copying of the forms of the older styles is +specially noticeable in the windows and traceries. + +At Ladykirk, the unusual form of elliptical windows is introduced, +probably in order to admit as much light as possible at the haunches. As +above explained, there are generally no aisles, and the windows, being +kept down below the springing of the main arch, are, as usual, low, and +here leave on the exterior a high space of blank wall above them. + +The above form of construction does not require or admit of a triforium +and clerestory. At Rosslyn, where there are side aisles, the side walls +of the choir are carried up so as to permit of clerestory windows. The +tracery is almost always set in the centre of the wall, and the same +mouldings, usually double chamfers, are repeated in the reveal both on +the inside and outside. + +Where the choir, nave, and transepts have square ends, there is +generally a large traceried window carried up in the gable under the +barrel vault of the roof, by which the principal light in the church is +obtained. + +The details of the late pointed churches in Scotland have comparatively +little connection with the late work either in England or France, but +some signs exist of importations from both these countries. + +At Melrose Abbey, Linlithgow Church and Palace, and a few other places, +there are distinct indications of the influence of the perpendicular +style of England; while the French influence is traceable in the apsidal +terminations of the choir and occasionally of the transepts, and in some +approaches to Flamboyant tracery. The latter influence may probably have +also led to the crown-like terminations of some of the church towers. On +the whole, however, it will be found that the details of the Scottish +late pointed period are peculiar to itself, and are principally founded +on survivals and revivals of details of the earlier styles. + +The doorways, for instance, are generally of the old, round-headed form, +with late foliage and enrichments. The common English perpendicular +doorway, with four-centred arch enclosed in a square frame, is never met +with; and although elliptical or three-centred arches occur over +doorways and windows, the four-centred arch-head is never used. Fan +tracery vaulting is also entirely absent in Scotland. + +Porches to doorways are occasionally introduced, as at Aberdeen +Cathedral and Whitekirk; and smaller porches are formed by arches thrown +between buttresses, as at Rosslyn and Trinity College Churches. + +Coats of arms are very commonly carved on shields at this period, and +are often useful in determining the dates of portions of the buildings, +monuments, &c. + +A tower is generally erected, or intended, over the crossing, and is +carried on the four walls, which, as we have seen, were generally built +in this position, in order to stop the four barrel vaults of the +different divisions of the church. The towers are somewhat stunted, and +they are usually finished with short, stunted spires, having a number of +lucarnes, or small dormer windows, inserted in them. The latter feature +was probably imported from France or the Low Countries, where similar +dormers abound in late work. + +Monuments are of more common occurrence than in the earlier periods. +They are frequently placed in arched and canopied recesses, which are +ornamented with crocketed labels and finials. The carving of the +crockets and other foliage is, doubtless, founded on the conventional +perpendicular foliage of England. This, however, is mixed with a +considerable revival of carving, copied from older work. + +The introduction of numerous small figures of men and animals is a +peculiarity of the period generally, and is found both at home and +abroad. Much of the carving of Rosslyn Church is of this description, +and similar carving may be seen at Melrose Abbey and Stirling Castle, +and on the rood screens in Glasgow Cathedral and Lincluden College. +Elaborate figure carving is common in other countries at this period, as +at Henry VII.’s Chapel, Westminster, and in the churches of France and +Spain. + +Richly carved sacrament houses, such as are occasionally introduced, are +a further indication of the taste for minute sculpture which prevailed +at this time. It is not unusual to find in late buildings that some of +the smaller features, such as sedilias, piscinas, and heraldic work, +are well designed and carved with much spirit. Perhaps some of this good +carving may be due to the French masons who, we know, were numerous in +Scotland during the reigns of James IV. and especially of James V.[6] + +During the period now under consideration, the structures chiefly +erected were, as already mentioned, either parish or collegiate +churches. A considerable number of the latter were built and endowed by +private founders during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. A list of +the collegiate churches existing in Scotland at the Reformation is given +by Dr. David Laing in his preface to _The Collegiate Churches of +Mid-Lothian_.[7] They amounted, according to that list, to thirty-eight +in number, and were spread over nearly every county in Scotland. Only +two of these had been founded in the fourteenth century, the remaining +thirty-six being all founded during the fifteenth century and the first +half of the sixteenth century. + +The structures connected with a considerable number of these college +churches are more or less perfectly preserved, and these, as well as +several others not mentioned by Dr. Laing, are described in the +following pages. + +Many of these establishments had previously existed as parish churches +or chapels before they were enlarged and made collegiate, and endowed by +the munificence of the founders. + + + + +PAISLEY ABBEY, RENFREWSHIRE. + + +Paisley Abbey is fortunate in having found in the Very Rev. J. Cameron +Lees, D.D., formerly one of the ministers of the parish, so able a +historian. We are largely indebted to his work, _The Abbey of Paisley, +1163-1878_, for the following historical notices. + +The Abbey was founded by Walter, son of Alan, the High Steward of +Scotland, who had accompanied David I. from Shropshire, and received +lands from him in Renfrewshire. Having resolved to follow the example of +his patron, and found a monastery on his estate, Alan entered into an +agreement with Humbold, prior of Wenlock Abbey, in the native county of +his family, to establish at “Passelay” a house of the Cluniac Order of +Benedictines, being the same order as the house at Wenlock. Humbold +therefore, in 1169, brought thirteen monks from the parent house, and, +having settled them in Renfrewshire on an island of the Clyde called the +King’s Inch, returned to Wenlock. There would at that time appear to +have been a very ancient church in existence at Paisley, dedicated to +St. Mirinus, an Irish saint of the sixth century, who had been a +disciple of the great school of St. Comgal at Bangor. A new monastery +was now to supersede the establishment of St. Mirin, but the name of +the ancient saint was preserved in the dedication of the abbey. + +It was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin; to St. James, the patron saint +of the Stewarts; to St. Milburga, the patron of the monks of Wenlock; +and to St. Mirinus, the Celtic missionary of the locality. The monastery +was at first established as a priory; but, in 1245, it was raised to the +rank of an abbey by Pope Honorius III. + +The establishment was well endowed, and during the first half of the +thirteenth century it was thoroughly consolidated under Abbot William, +who presided from 1225 to 1248. During the prosperous reigns of Kings +Alexander II. and III. the church was erected, but of the work of that +period (the thirteenth century) there remain only a portion of the west +front and part of the south wall of the nave, including the south-east +doorway to the cloister, and three windows. The structure appears to +have suffered severely during the War of Independence. It stood in the +vicinity of Elderslie, the lands of Sir William Wallace, and doubtless +met with a similar savage treatment to that allotted to the patriot +leader. It is stated to have been burnt by the English in 1307, and the +burning would appear to have led to a very complete destruction of the +edifice, as the portions of the original work which survive are very +small. + +The connection of the Stewart family with the abbey continued till, +through the marriage of Walter with Margery, daughter of Robert the +Bruce, the Stewarts succeeded to the throne. The earlier Stewarts were +all buried in the abbey, which also contains the tomb of Robert III. + +In consequence of the destruction of the monastery, caused by the wars +with England, the buildings long remained, like other structures in +Scotland at that period, in a dismantled condition; but gifts having +been received from the Bishops of Argyle and Glasgow to aid the monks in +their distress, and to assist in restoring the fabric, operations were +begun. Part of this work was apparently carried out by Bishop Lithgow +(1384-1433), who was buried, by his own desire, in the north porch, +where the inscription to his memory is still preserved. The chief part, +however, of the rebuilding of the Abbey Church was carried out under +Abbot Thomas de Tervas (1445-1459). This abbot obtained the privilege of +having a tavern and selling wine within the gates of the monastery, and +is believed to have raised money thereby for the reconstruction of the +church. According to the ancient chronicle of Auchenleck, he found the +place in ruin and the “kirk unbiggit.” He carried up the triforium and +clerestory, and finished the roof. He also erected a great portion of +the steeple, and built a stately gatehouse. Having completed the +building of the church, he proceeded to Rome, in order there to procure +suitable furnishings, and brought back adornments of sumptuous +character--jewels, cloths of gold and silver, precious books, the +“statliest Tabernkle in al Scotland,” and “ane lettren of brass.” + +During the fifteenth century many altars were erected and endowed by the +burgesses, and the Chapel of St. Mirin, which occupies part of the site +of the south transept, was erected in 1499, and endowed by James +Crawford of Kylwynet, a burgess of Paisley, and his wife. + +At the decease of Abbot Tervas, Pope Pius II. decreed that the +disposition of the office of abbot and of the whole revenues of the +monastery should fall to the Pope. A commendator thus came to be +appointed, and the rights of the abbey began to be invaded. However, +Abbot George Shaw (1472-1498) endeavoured to guard the possessions of +the monastery from encroachments. He also succeeded in having the +village of the abbey erected into a burgh, with the usual privileges. +Abbot Shaw likewise improved the buildings of the abbey. He erected a +refectory and other structures, and reared a lofty tower over the +principal gate, and enclosed the grounds and gardens of the convent with +a wall of ashlar, about one mile in circuit, and adorned it with statues +and shields. + +Abbot Shaw placed his arms on several parts of this wall, and in the +middle of the north portion he inserted three shields--the central one +bearing the royal arms; that on the right the Stewart arms, for the +founder; and that on the left the abbot’s own arms. He also erected a +tablet on the north-west angle, containing his name and the date of +erection. Only a small portion of this wall remains, but the panels +containing the royal arms and the inscription are preserved in the +Coates Museum. The latter is as follows:-- + + “Ya callit ye Abbot Georg of Schawe + About yis Abbay gart make yis wav + A thousande four hundereth zheyr + Auchty ande fywe the date but veir + [Pray for his saulis salvacioun] + Yat made thys nobil fundacioun.”[8] + +Mr. Chalmers[9] is of opinion that this inscription was designed by John +Morow, whose name appears on a tablet at Melrose Abbey.[10] “The +character of the lettering in design and workmanship is the same as at +Melrose. The references to the building operations, the poetical form of +the compositions, the manner in which the names are introduced--‘Callit +was I,’ and ‘ye Callit’--and the devout expressions with which they +close, make it clear that the inscriptions are the work of the same +author.” Whether that is so, or whether the inscriptions simply reflect +the style, both literary and artistic, of the period is questionable. In +any case, the idea is ingenious. Mr. Chalmers points out that the fifth +line, which is erased, was probably cut out by the Reformers, as being +out of keeping with their religious views, while the remainder indicates +the care with which the historically valuable part was preserved. + +The days of Abbot John Hamilton (1525-1544), who became Bishop of +Dunkeld, and was afterwards promoted to be Archbishop of St. Andrews, +were evil for the monastery of Paisley, as for all other similar +institutions in the country. When driven from St. Andrews, the +archbishop sought safety at Paisley; but that house being sacked and +burnt by the Reformers, he had to take refuge at Dumbarton Castle, where +he was made prisoner, and afterwards executed at Stirling. + +The Master of Sempill had been appointed bailie of the monastery, and, +at the dissolution, the whole of the church property was handed over to +Lord Sempill. The property finally came into the possession of Lord +Claud Hamilton, nephew of the archbishop, and the monastic buildings +were converted into the “Place of Paisley,” the residence of the +Abercorn family.[11] + +Before the Reformation the monastery consisted of the church, the +cloister, and the conventual buildings. The church (Fig. 953) comprised +a long aisleless choir, a nave with aisles, a north transept, a south +transept, with St. Mirin’s Chapel attached to the south of it, and a +tower and spire over the crossing. + +The choir can still be traced, as the walls remain standing to the +height of 9 feet, and contain an elegant sedilia and piscina. The choir +measures, internally, about 124 feet in length by 22 feet in width. It +may be questioned whether the choir was ever finished during the +restoration. The walls present rather the appearance of having been +abandoned at a certain stage in the progress of their erection than of a +building which had fallen into ruin. They stand at a uniform level, +marked by a string course all round, and have not the irregular heights +generally found in ruins. The building is of fifteenth century work, and +doubtless occupies the place of an earlier choir, which had been +demolished. + +The wall at the east end of the nave, which separates it from the +transept, is of a substantial kind, and may have been erected when the +structure was restored in the fifteenth century, with the intention of +rendering the nave a complete church, until the transept and choir were +restored. The latter seems never to have been carried into effect, but +to have been in progress when all work was interrupted by the +Reformation. + +There are no indications at the junction of the choir and transept of +the large piers which would naturally be built so as to correspond with +those at the west side of the crossing (Fig. 954). The fine sedilia, +although greatly mutilated (Fig. 955), is the principal feature in the +eastern part of the edifice. It is 11 feet 2 inches long, and contains +four seats, contrary to the usual practice, which is to have three +seats. The design is elegant, and resembles that of the sedilia at St. +Monan’s, Fifeshire. Adjoining the sedilia is the piscina, the basin of +which is broken, but the aperture is still visible. The recess, which +has an angled head, slopes backwards. + +[Illustration: FIG. 953.--Paisley Abbey. Plan.[12]] + +In this respect it resembles one at Auchterarder. On each side are two +small recesses, about 12 inches wide, for holding the sacred vessels. + +The north transept (see Fig. 954) is in ruins, but the north wall, with +the remains of a fine traceried window (Fig. 956), still exists, as well +as a traceried window in the west wall. These traceries were restored a +few years ago. The mode in which the turrets at the angles above the +buttresses are corbelled out recalls similar features at Dunkeld +Cathedral. These turrets resemble the roofed bartizans of castellated +structures. + +[Illustration: FIG. 954.--Paisley Abbey. Junction of Nave with North +Transept.] + +The south transept is also in ruins, and the tower and spire have +disappeared. The Chapel of St. Mirin, however, is still well preserved, +but the openings connecting it with the south transept have been built +up. + +The nave is the only part of the main divisions of the church which +survives as a whole. It measures, internally, 92 feet in length by 60 +feet in width, and contains six bays, divided by massive piers, all +surmounted by a triforium and clerestory. There is a porch on the north +side and two doorways from the cloister on the south side. + +The oldest portion of the building is, undoubtedly, the eastern part of +the south wall of the south aisle of the nave, where it adjoins the +transept. This portion of wall consists of three bays (Fig. 957), +containing the south-east doorway from the cloister to the nave, and +three pointed windows in the upper part. The doorway is of the +transition style, having a round arch-head, with numerous bold mouldings +springing from carved and foliaged + +[Illustration: FIG. 955.--Paisley Abbey. Sedilia in Choir.] + +caps with square abaci (Fig. 958). The windows above are very simple in +style, and are apparently early first pointed work. This part of the +building probably dates from the first half of the thirteenth century. +The western portion of the south aisle of the nave (Fig. 959) and the +whole of the south clerestory (see Figs. 957 and 959) are evidently +portions of the restored church of the fifteenth century. The south +aisle wall contains the south-west and south-east doors from the nave to +the cloister. The windows of the south wall have the sills placed at a +high level, so as to admit of the roof of the cloister walk being +placed against it. The corbels which supported the roof still exist, and +are shown in the sketches. + +[Illustration: FIG. 956.--Paisley Abbey. Windows in North Transept.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 957.--Paisley Abbey. East Part of South Side of +Nave.] + +The west end of the nave (Fig. 960) is also in part amongst the ancient +portions of the structure. The western entrance doorway is clearly, from +the style of its architecture, a work of the thirteenth century. The +doorpiece + +[Illustration: FIG. 958.--Paisley Abbey. + +South-East Doorway in Cloister. + +A. Door Jamb. +B. Arch Moulding. +] + +projects, and has a nook shaft on the projecting angles. The doorway is +a single pointed opening, deeply recessed, with a series of free shafts +in the jambs, having rounded and moulded caps, and the arch mouldings +are arranged in square orders. The outer order contains a dog-tooth +ornament. A sharply pointed arch flanks the doorway on each side, and +has similar shafts and mouldings to those of the central opening. The +aisle windows of the west front also belong to the first pointed period. +The thin nook shafts, with moulded caps having round abaci and central +bands, are all in the style of the thirteenth century. + +The upper portion of the west front above the two large windows is +undoubtedly of considerably later date. The design of the west front, +which contains above the doorpiece two large windows, with pointed +niches and small circles inserted between the arch-heads, is probably +original, but the upper portion and gable, including the large traceried +window, are doubtless part of the restoration of the fifteenth century. +The tracery of the two central windows is peculiar, and may possibly be +of the fourteenth century, but that of the large upper window is later, +probably of the same period as the restoration of the interior of the +nave. The tracery of the large upper window is a specimen of the late +kind of design employed in Scotland in the fifteenth century. The change +of style caused by the restoration of the fifteenth century is well +marked in the interior at the west end of the nave. The first or western +bay of the main arcade is original (Figs. 961 and 962), including the +first arches (one on each side), the first pillars and the arches +between them, and the aisle responds. These pillars and arches are of +large dimensions and first pointed section (Fig. 963), and appear to +have been designed to carry western towers, but a part of their +thickness has been cut off next the choir. A portion of the triforium +wall, a piece of the string course over the main arcade, and the +corbelled vaulting shaft in the angle as high as the top of the +triforium, are also parts of the original structure. The later work has +been joined to the above old parts in a very awkward manner. The wall +over the large pillars has been thinned on the side next the nave, and +the different width and sections of the mouldings have not been properly +adjusted, the result being that part of the older moulding is left at +the springing of the second arch on the north side, and the mouldings of +the later section are butted against it (see Fig. 961). + +[Illustration: FIG. 959.--Paisley Abbey. West Part of South Side of +Nave.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 960.--Paisley Abbey. West End of Nave: Exterior.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 961.--Paisley Abbey. West End of Nave and Part of +North Side.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 962.--Paisley Abbey. West End of Nave and Part of +South Side.] + +There are signs of further alteration above the west arch. A clumsy new +string course is introduced, which slightly changes its section after +passing along half a bay. A second vaulting shaft is carried up in the + +[Illustration: FIG. 963.--Paisley Abbey. + +West Piers and Respond in Nave.] + +angle beside the original one as high as the triforium arch and there +stops. The first triforium arch, which is pointed (all the others being +round), abuts against the wall in an awkward manner (see Fig. 961), the +original design being changed. + +The cap of the west pier on the north side belongs to the first pointed +work, while the corresponding cap on the south side (see Fig. 962) and +all the other caps belong to the restoration of the fifteenth century. +The above cap and all the later caps in the nave have the upper +mouldings run in a straight line without any break, while the lower +mouldings break round the section of the piers (Fig. 964).[13] A moulded +shaft, considerably off the perpendicular, rises from the top of the +above cap to the string course at the junction of the old and the +restored wall. + +The piers of the nave, except the west piers, are of a clustered form +not uncommon in late work in Scotland. The caps and main arches have +good mouldings, and might be about the date of the restoration of St. +Giles’, Edinburgh (which they resemble), in the early part of the +fifteenth century. + +The design of the triforium is very remarkable (see Figs. 961 and 962), +consisting of large segmental arches the same width as the main arches, +springing from short clustered piers introduced between them. Each arch +is filled in with two pointed arches resting on a smaller central shaft. +These arches and the spandril between them are treated with bold +cusping. + +The triforium of the nave of Dunkeld Cathedral somewhat resembles that +at Paisley Abbey. It contains a series of semicircular openings filled +with similar pointed arches and cusping, but the work at Paisley is +superior, and would appear to be the earlier of the two. In neither +church is there any vaulting shaft to divide the bays. + +The clerestory is probably designed in imitation of that of Glasgow +Cathedral. It is divided into two pointed arches in each bay. These +spring from a series of clustered shafts with round moulded caps, which +have an early character, but are evidently late imitations of early +work. The exterior views (see Figs. 957 and 959) show that each +clerestory window contains a central shaft, with two cusped arches and +quatrefoil in the arch-head. + +The parapets of the nave and nave aisles are evidently, from the style +of the mouldings and ornaments, of late date. + +There seems to be no reason to doubt that, as above stated, the upper +portions of the nave were carried out about the time of Bishop Tervas, +in the middle of the fifteenth century. The earlier part of the +restoration, including the main piers and arches, and perhaps the +tracery of the two lower windows of the west front, were possibly +executed by Bishop + +[Illustration: FIG. 964.--Paisley Abbey. Pier of Nave.] + +Lithgow, who built the north porch, and the completion of the nave was +carried out by Bishop Tervas. A striking peculiarity of the interior of +the nave is a series of large corbels (see Figs. 961 and 962), which +project from the spandrils of the triforium arcade. The object of these +corbels appears to have been to enable a passage, which is formed in the +interior of the clerestory windows, but does not run through the wall in +a straight line from end to end as is usual, to be carried round the +solid piers introduced between the windows. These projections recall, by +the small corbels arranged in rows into which they are divided, the +corbels generally used for the support of the bartizans of castles. Each +of the large corbels springs at its lowest point from the sculptured +grotesque figure of a man or animal. Dr. Lees states (p. 209) that these +figures “were mostly the work of Thomas Hector, a sculptor who lived at +Crossflat, and whom the abbot retained for his skill in his art.” One of +the corbels on the south side (near the west end) represents a man +wearing the garb of Old Gaul. It may be mentioned that a somewhat +similar gallery exists in Rouen Cathedral. It is carried round the piers +of the nave on the side next the aisles, and is supported on shafts +springing from corbels. This gallery has a light stone parapet resting +on it. The design is of the thirteenth century, and is elegantly carried +out; but it has, notwithstanding, a rather heavy appearance. It must be +admitted that the projecting corbels at Paisley are clumsy, and +considerably mar the effect of the interior. There appears to have been +a parapet in front of the clerestory passage opposite the windows, and a +similar parapet may have been carried round the large corbels, otherwise +walking round them would have been dangerous. This would add still more +to the heaviness of their appearance. Vaulting shafts are carried up +between the windows of the clerestory, but the buttresses being very +light, a vaulted roof has apparently not been contemplated. The present +plaster vaulting is modern. The north wall of the nave aisle, except the +doorway of the north porch, which is of first pointed work, has been +rebuilt in the fifteenth century. The ingoing of the window jambs and +arches consists, both on the inside and outside of the wall, of a great +hollow, with the tracery set in the centre of the wall. The large north +porch (shown in Billings’ work) was taken down in 1863, in order to be +erected anew, in what was considered a finer style. The porch contains +the tomb of Bishop Lithgow, who selected this porch as his burial-place, +and was interred there in 1433. Some of the tracery in the aisle windows +is good for the period, like that in some of the windows of Dunkeld +Cathedral, which building (as above mentioned) has considerable affinity +with Paisley Abbey Church. + +St. Mirin’s Aisle (Fig. 965), as already pointed out, occupies the south +end of the south transept, and was erected in 1499. It is a chapel 48 +feet 3 inches long by 23 feet wide, having a vaulted roof about 32 feet +6 inches high. The main vault, like that of so many structures of the +latter part of the fifteenth century, consists of a pointed barrel +vault, the curve of which is drawn from a point lower than the springing +of the arch, and thus forms an angle at the junction with the side +walls. The surface of the vault is strengthened with a series of ribs, +most of which spring from corbels in the side walls. The ribs are +arranged so as to cross one another at the ridge, as if the roof were + +[Illustration: FIG. 965.--Paisley Abbey. St. Mirin’s Chapel, looking +East.] + +groined; but they are almost entirely ornamental. The mouldings of the +corbels are well designed, and show an imitation of first pointed work. +The corbels being at a lower level than the top of the wall, the ribs +project considerably in passing that point. The ridge has a bold rib +enriched with carved bosses, and one of the transverse ribs is divided +into two branches, so as to avoid descending on the top of the large +arch in the north wall. There is a large pointed window in the east end, +having jambs with single shafts (like the clerestory of the church). It +has mullions dividing it into four lights, and the arch-head is filled +with good simple tracery. Beneath this window runs a frieze 1 foot 8 +inches broad, partly carved, with groups of figures showing, as +discovered by Dr. Lees,[14] events in the life of St. Mirin. The east +end of the chapel, where the altar stood, is raised four steps above the +western part. The west wall contains an outer doorway from the cloister +court, and there is a window with simple tracery above it; a curious +large ambry adjoins the door in the outer wall. The chapel was connected +with the south transept by two wide archways, now built up. There is a +piscina near the east end (Fig. 966), with three-sided head, like that +in the choir. + +Above the vaulting of St. Mirin’s Chapel, and in the angle formed by the +sloping roof, there is introduced a chamber, with a pointed barrel +vault, about 12 feet wide and nearly 10 feet high, to the apex of its +sharply pointed vault. The three sides of this chamber thus nearly form +an equilateral triangle. Like the chapel below, it is 48 feet in length. +It is lighted by trefoil headed windows in the gables. Access to this +chamber, which may have been occupied by one or more priests, is +obtained from the adjoining buildings. It is to be regretted that the +south and south-east sides of St. Mirin’s Chapel are concealed from view +by buildings of a poor description. It will be observed that the +construction of the roof of St. Mirin’s bears considerable analogy with +that of Lincluden Abbey, although later in its features. There is a +similar double vault over both these buildings, with a small chamber +between them. At Lincluden the lower vault was (if it ever was +completed) of a genuine groined construction, while at St. Mirin’s the +ribs were only imitative. The roof of St. Mirin’s Chapel was clearly +intended to be formed of stone slabs, resting on the pointed arch, but +has never been carried out, the present roof being slated. + +On the floor of this chapel there now stands an ornamental altar tomb +(see Fig. 965), which was found lying in fragments near the abbey by Dr. +Boog, one of the ministers of the parish, who, in 1817, had it brought +here and put together again. It supports a recumbent female figure, +believed to be the effigy of Margery, daughter of King Robert I., and +mother of Robert II. The head of the figure is surmounted by a large +cusped canopy, placed in n horizontal position, on the end of which is +carved a crucifixion. The pedestal is covered with a series of Gothic +compartments, in each of which there is carved a shield, enriched with +heraldic blazons and figures of ecclesiastics. The panels at the west +end (Fig. 967) contain--the first the fess chequé of the Stewarts +between three roses; the third the fess chequé, surmounted of a lion +rampant, and the central one, two keys saltierwise, between two crosiers +in pale. + +Mr. Semple[15] is of opinion that the monument is made up of fragments +from various quarters. On each side there are nine full compartments of + +[Illustration: FIG. 966.--Paisley Abbey. + +Piscina in St. Mirin’s Chapel.] + +an oblong or oval form, and one half compartment at each end. At the +foot the compartments are empty. On the right side the 1st compartment +contains a bishop with crosier; the 4th, a bishop at prayer, and, on a +scroll, the name Robert Wyshart (Bishop of Glasgow). On the left, the +1st compartment contains a bishop celebrating, with the name Johes D. +Lychtgow (Abbot of Paisley); the 4th, an abbot at prayer, with the name +of Abbot Lythgow repeated. Several compartments contain monks at prayer, +and others are blank. Mr. Semple thinks that the left side may be part +of Abbot Lithgow’s monument, and the right side part of that of Bishop +Wishart. + +Of the cloisters and conventual buildings few traces remain; but the +outline of the cloister court is preserved. It is surrounded (see Fig. +953) with post-Reformation structures, occupying the site of the chapter +house, refectory, &c. These were converted into the “place of Paisley,” +as the residence of the Abercorn family, which has been already fully +described.[16] These buildings probably contain portions of the walls of +the refectory and other conventual structures erected by Abbot Shaw at +the end of the fifteenth century. The western side of the cloister +buildings was removed about twenty years ago, in order to widen the +adjoining street. The wall, gatehouse, &c., erected by Abbot Shaw, have +now almost entirely disappeared. + +The cloistral buildings were much altered and added to in 1675 by the +Earl of Dundonald, and fitted up as a mansion house, and they still bear +traces of considerable splendour in panelled walls, with stone +fireplaces and ornamental ceilings. One of the latter on the upper floor +is a fine example of the plaster and painted decoration of the period. + +Turning to the ground Plan, it seems highly probable that the walls are, +in part at least, of pre-Reformation date, and that we have here + +[Illustration: FIG. 967.--Paisley Abbey. End of Altar Tomb in St. +Mirin’s Chapel.] + +part of the work of Abbot Shaw, who erected a refectory and other +buildings at the end of the fifteenth century. It will be observed that +the main wall of the south range, running east and west, is very thick +(4 feet to 5 feet), while the outside wall, forming the south side of +the cloister, is only about 2 feet thick. The latter was probably +erected when the place became a mansion house, in order to form a +passage, and thus obviate the necessity of passing through the rooms, +while the thick wall was the original outside wall of the refectory or +of cellars below it. The south wall of this building also probably +consists in part of the south wall of the refectory, but the large +windows in it are, doubtless, insertions. + +The building marked as chapter house on the Plan occupies the position +in which that chamber would likely be. It is now divided into two, and +has lost all traces of its ecclesiastical purpose--one side being used +as a bottling store and the other as a stable. There is a large +fireplace in the north wall, of distinctly Gothic design. That is not a +usual feature in a chapter house; but in the sacristy over the chapter +house of Glasgow Cathedral there is a large fireplace. At Paisley, the +arrangement may have been reversed. The vestry may have been on the +ground floor and the chapter house above. This building is at present +some five stories in height, the upper floors being reached by the wheel +stair shown on the Plan. It is from this high building that the chamber +over St. Mirin’s is reached, which is a fair indication that this +chapter house tower, as it may be called, is as old as St. Mirin’s. The +same stair also accommodates the refectory range of buildings on the +south side of the cloister, which are three stories in height, and have +another stair at the west end. + +It is thought by some that the first central tower erected over the +crossing was of inferior workmanship and gave way. Another central tower +is believed to have been erected by Abbot Tervas. This tower probably +fell during the siege by Lennox and Glencairn, no doubt destroying much +of the choir and transept in its fall. It has been mentioned above that +western towers appear to have been contemplated. Possibly it may be one +of these to which Martine, when speaking of John Hamilton, Archbishop of +St. Andrews, refers when he says, “At which church [Paisley] he built a +prettie handsome steeple, which fell before it was well finished.”[17] + +It is thought that the body of Archbishop Hamilton was buried in the +abbey, and a tablet in the church looks as if it marked his grave. It +contains his arms and initials, J. H., and “the motto he assumed, which +contrasts strangely with his troubled life, ‘Misericordia et pax.’” + +Several monuments with inscriptions of sixteenth century date exist in +the building. On the west buttress of the north transept, at 21 feet in +height, is the shield of the Stewarts, with a pastoral staff and the +word “Stewart.” + +One of the south piers of the nave is called the Cathcart pillar, having +carved upon it a shield with the Cathcart arms (see Fig. 964). This is +believed to be a memorial of Sir Allan Cathcart, one of the knights who +sailed for the Holy Land with Bruce’s heart. The heart was brought back +by Sir Allan, and buried at Melrose. + + + + +DUNKELD CATHEDRAL, PERTHSHIRE. + + +Situated in the beautiful, though rugged, glen which forms the pass to +the Highlands from the fertile lowlands of Perthshire, this grey and +venerable ruin adds an unexpected and charming interest to the lovely +scenery of the locality. The mountain range through which the pass +penetrates long formed a barrier to the access of the Scottish kings to +the Celtic provinces further north, and the nearness of the Highland +clans was a constant source of menace to the Church. For that reason the +bishop’s palace had to be constructed as a fortified stronghold; hence, +perhaps, the name of Dunkeld, the fort of the Keledei or Culdees. + +After the destruction of Iona by the Norsemen in the beginning of the +ninth century, Dunkeld was selected by the King of the Picts as a secure +place, remote from the sea, and comparatively safe from the attacks of +the Vikings, in which a mother church in lieu of Iona might be +established. To this retreat a portion of the relics of Columba were +brought by King Kenneth Macalpine in 850, and here he resolved to place +the abbot of his new monastery as bishop over the Church in the +territories of the Southern Picts, with a view to the ready +reorganisation of the Scottish monasteries, so that they should form one +diocese under one bishop.[18] + +But the primacy of the Pictish Church did not remain long at Dunkeld, +being transferred in the end of the ninth century to Abernethy, on the +south side of the Frith of Tay. + +The abbots in those days had become great lay proprietors, having lawful +wives, and succeeding to the benefices of their abbacies by hereditary +descent. One of these lay abbots of Dunkeld married a daughter of +Malcolm II., and it is remarkable that it was by their descendants that +the religious order in Scotland was changed. The new order of things, +which had been initiated by St. Margaret, was continued by her son, +Alexander I., who, in 1107, created two new bishoprics in the more +remote and Celtic portion of his kingdom, the first being that of Moray, +and the second that of Dunkeld. Alexander I. also brought, in 1115, a +body of canons regular to Scone Abbey, and a few years later he +established the same order in the diocese of Dunkeld. He also, in 1122, +introduced canons regular to a monastery he had built on an island in +Loch Tay, and, in 1123, founded the monastery of Inchcolm, and +introduced the same order there.[19] + +The Cathedral of Dunkeld has been the see of several distinguished +bishops. Bruce’s friend and supporter, Bishop Sinclair, held this see; +and Gavin Douglas, the well-known scholar and translator of the _Æneid +of Virgil_, was Bishop of Dunkeld. + +The buildings which now exist are of much more recent date than the days +of Queen Margaret’s sons. Alexander Myln, a canon of Dunkeld in 1505, +and afterwards Abbot of Cambuskenneth and first President of the College +of Justice, has fortunately left a history of the lives of the Bishops +of Dunkeld, which professes to give a more minute account of the + +[Illustration: FIG. 968.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Plan.] + +dates of the different parts of the structure of the cathedral than we +have of any similar building in the country. From this account it would +appear that the existing structure is chiefly of the fifteenth century. + +The edifice (Fig. 968) consists of an aisleless choir, a nave with two +aisles, a north-west tower, and a chapter house to the north of the +choir. The choir measures 103 feet long by 29 feet wide internally, and +the rectangular chapter house attached to the north side is 27 feet long +and 20 feet wide. Some portions of the choir indicate the style of the +thirteenth + +[Illustration: FIG. 969.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Wall Arcade at North-West +Angle of Choir.] + +century; but this part of the structure was almost entirely rebuilt in +the beginning of the present century. An original fragment may, however, +still be observed in damaged portions of a first pointed arcade (Fig. +969) in the interior of the north wall near the west end. The arcade is +below the level of the window sill, and extends to six arches of trefoil +form, springing from the carved caps of single shafts. All the details +(Fig. 970) are pure and good. A post to support a modern gallery cuts +into the arcade, as shown in Fig. 969. From the floor to the top of the +caps measures 5 feet 9 inches. The choir is now fitted up and used as +the parish church. + +The chapter house, on the north side of the choir, is now converted into +a mausoleum for the families of the Dukes of Atholl, and contains +several Renaissance monuments. It is two stories high (Fig. 971), the + +[Illustration: FIG. 970.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Details of Wall Arcade in +North-West Angle of Choir.] + +lower story being vaulted and of considerable height (Fig. 972), and is +lighted by tall lancet windows cusped at the arch head. The buttresses +are simple, and the whole character of the work is early, but it has +been altered. The vaulting (Fig. 972) is round arched, but the wall ribs +are pointed; the roof has thus a flat appearance, and there are no +horizontal ridge ribs. The chapter house structure has been added after +the erection of the choir, as is evident from the portion of the +original exterior base of the choir which still exists in the south-west +angle of the interior of the chapter house adjoining the door (see Fig. +972). From the style of the design, this structure was probably an early +addition. The upper + +[Illustration: FIG. 971.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Chapter House from +North-West.] + +chamber over the chapter house is doubtless later. The staircase leading +to the upper floor is inserted in the south-west angle and projects into +the chamber,[20] and cuts through the groined ceiling (see Fig. 972). + +The heightening of the chapter house was apparently carried out by +Bishop Lauder, whose arms, a griffin segreant (Fig. 973), are carved +near the top on the face of the north buttress on the east side. The +upper + +[Illustration: FIG. 972.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Interior of Chapter +House.] + +chamber has been lighted by small windows, which are now partly built +up. The windows of the lower story have been fitted with wooden shutters +on the inside, some of which are still in position (see Fig. 972). At +the doorway leading into the choir there is a curious small stoup cut on +the base (see Fig. 972). + +Against the centre of the north wall there is a recessed tomb (Fig. +974), which exhibits that peculiar kind of design, having mixed Gothic +and Renaissance features, frequently found in the seventeenth century. +It contains in the pediment a shield bearing--1st and 4th, a fess chequé +for Stewart; 2nd and 3rd, three pallets for Athole, a pelican at top, +and + +[Illustration: FIG. 973.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Section of Jamb of West +Doorway, and Arms of Bishop Lauder on Chapter House.] + +the motto, _Furth Fortoun et fil ye Feteris_. The recess for the figure +is 4 feet 11 inches wide by 3 feet 11 inches high, but it contains no +effigy. + +On the south wall there is a large eighteenth century monument with +inscription (see Fig. 972), and, at the sides, thirty-two coats of arms, +arranged in two rows of eight on each side, besides other arms. + +Resting on the floor, and against the walls of the chapter house, there +are numerous carved stones, several having arms, which appear to have +come from some sixteenth or seventeenth century buildings; and in the +room over the chapter house the remains of a rich Renaissance monument, +carved in oak, lie scattered on the floor. + +[Illustration: FIG. 974.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Monument in Chapter +House.] + +Abbot Myln relates[21] that in 1312 Bishop William de St. Clare (Bruce’s +“own bishop”) brought Magistrum Robertum Cementarium to the work of the +choir and church, which he built from the foundation. This clearly +refers to a restoration, as part of the thirteenth century walls is +still in existence. Bishop Sinclair died in 1337, and was buried in the +choir built by him, having filled the see for twenty-five years. + +To the west of the choir is the nave, which measures, internally, 120 +feet in length by 60 feet wide, and consists of a central compartment of +seven bays, separated from the side aisles by arcades, which rest on +plain round pillars. We are informed by Abbot Mylne that this part of +the cathedral was founded by Bishop Cardeny on the 27th day of April +1406, and that he carried it up to the second arches, “vulgariter le +blynd storijs.” This bishop conferred great benefits on the see by +acquiring lands for it and otherwise. He also founded and adorned the +altar of St. Ninian in Dunkeld, and decorated all the windows of the +choir with glass. Having on one occasion made a narrow escape during an +attack on his house, he constructed a strong tower for the bishop’s +residence. He died in 1436,[22] and his fine monument (Fig. 975) is +still preserved in the south wall of the nave. + +In 1447 the king’s secretary, John of Ralstoun, was made bishop, but he +lived for only three years after his appointment.[23] He made provision +of hewn stones from the quarry of Burnbane for continuing the building +of the nave begun by Bishop Cardeny. Bishop Ralston died in 1450, and +was succeeded by Bishop Lauder, who completed the nave and decorated all +the windows with glass, and finished the roof. He also constructed a +handsome portico to the church before the southern doorway, and placed +figures of sculptured art therein. With his own hands Bishop Lauder +dedicated the church in 1464. But still untired of his sacred work, he +founded the campanile (Fig. 976) on 5th March 1469, and continued the +building on high. The chapter house was also founded by him in 1457. +This, no doubt, refers to the erection of the upper floor of the two +story building on the north side of the choir above described. Perhaps +this edifice contained the sacristy on the ground floor, on the level of +the choir, and the upper story added by Bishop Lauder may have been the +chapter house. At Glasgow Cathedral, the similar two story building +contained the sacristy on the upper floor, on the level of the choir, +and the chapter house on the lower story. This “Great and worthy High +Priest” likewise, in 1461, constructed a bridge over the Tay, near his +own palace, partly of stone and partly of wood. He likewise presented +the church with numerous splendid vestments and silver vessels, +including a silver cross containing part of the true Cross. He also had +paintings executed at the high altar, representing the twenty-four +miracles of St. Columba, and he constructed the bishop’s throne and +stalls in the choir. + +In 1481 this prelate died full of years and of good works. By Bishop +Lauder’s influence the cathedral lands north of the Forth were raised +into + +[Illustration: FIG. 975.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Monument of Bishop Cardeny +in Nave.[24]] + +[Illustration: FIG. 976.--Dunkeld Cathedral. View from South-West.] + +the barony of Dunkeld, and those south of the Forth into the barony of +Aberlathy.[25] + +The bishops of Dunkeld, in addition to their palace or tower at Dunkeld, +had also a country seat at Loch Cluny (where their house still exists on +an island in the loch) and a residence at Cramond, in Mid-Lothian.[26] + +The successors of Bishop Lauder are not stated to have added any +buildings to the cathedral; but it is mentioned that some of them, +especially Bishop Brown, adorned the interior with images and paintings, +and added to the store of rich vestments and ornaments. + +The Reformation came not long after the completion of the internal +decorations and fittings. In 1560 two of the neighbouring lairds were +commissioned to take down the images and burn them in the churchyard, +and also to cast down the altars and purge the church of all kinds of +monuments of idolatry. They were enjoined to see that the desks, +windows, and doors were unharmed, nor the glass or iron work broken. But +the spirit of destruction once let loose was not easily restrained, and +the church was completely destroyed and the roof burnt. + +The architectural style of the different portions of the edifice +corresponds generally with the above dates fixed by Abbot Myln. The +massive round pillars of the nave, 4 feet 6 inches in diameter (Fig. +977), and the heavy semicircular arches of the triforium have been +supposed to indicate Norman work; but the details prove that here, as +frequently occurs in Scotland, the ancient forms are repeated in later +times. The caps and bases of the piers show that they belong to an +advanced period, while the mouldings of the triforium arches and the +trefoiled filling in clearly indicate work of the latter half of the +fifteenth century. These features are, undoubtedly, peculiar; but other +examples show that they are not singular. Thus at Aberdour Church[27] +and Aberdeen Cathedral (late works), the pillars of the piers are +circular, and have similar caps to those at Dunkeld; and at Paisley the +triforium arches are segmental, and are divided with cusped arches +somewhat similar in style to those of Dunkeld Cathedral. The clerestory +is very plain, and the windows are small. From the number of holes in +the wall, used for the support of rafters and other woodwork, it seems +likely that this portion of the wall was partly concealed by the timbers +of the open wooden roof, and perhaps partly covered with panelling. + +The great window in the western gable (see Fig. 976) is evidently a late +feature, and seems to have been added sometime after the west wall had +been erected. This is apparent not only from the style and the peculiar +unsymmetrical position of the window, but also from the construction of +the exterior (Fig. 978), where it will be observed that the original +west door has had a portion of wall somewhat rudely added in front of +the original wall, in order to support a balcony or gallery carried +across at the base of the window. The older moulded doorway (the jamb of +which is shown in + +[Illustration: FIG. 977.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Nave, looking West.] + +Fig. 973) is thus overlapped and buried by two square piers, carrying +plain arches above, stuck on in front of the original wall; while in a +similar opening or recess, between the south pier and the tower at the + +[Illustration: FIG. 978.--Dunkeld Cathedral. West End.] + +south side, the space is lintelled over between the square pier and the +stair turret. As the stair turret probably existed (at least for part of +its height) before this alteration, the large window, which occupies the +full available width, had to be squeezed in as best it could, and thus +came to stand in the unsymmetrical position it occupies (see Fig. 977). +This supposed alteration may also, perhaps, explain the peculiar way in +which the ogee canopy of the window is twisted to one side at the top +(see Fig. 976), which Mr. Billings has difficulty in accounting for. The +small circle in the gable being right over the entrance door (as the +original window in the west end doubtless also was), it was found, when +the window came to be enlarged, that there was no room to carry the +canopy and its fleur-de-lys finial straight up without removing the +small circular opening, and so the canopy and finial had to be pushed to +one side. + +The side aisles are 12 feet in width, and the south one has been +vaulted. The tracery in many of the windows still survives, and is +varied and generally good in design. A restoration of the tracery in the +west window may be seen in Mr. Billings’ work. The tracery is of the +kind common in the Scottish architecture of the fifteenth century. + +Attention has already been drawn to the peculiar flat-headed windows at +the west end of the north aisle of Dunblane Cathedral. At Dunkeld, the +corresponding window is flat arched (Fig. 979), and at St. John’s +Church, in Perth, the window in the same position is either flat arched +or has a lintel. It is singular and interesting to find this similarity +of treatment, as regards the north-west window, in these three churches, +which are all situated in one part of the country. Over the north-west +window at Dunkeld are the arms of Bishop Brown (a chevron between three +fleur-de-lys), surmounted by a mitre. There is an inscription on a +ribbon round the arms, but it would require a very minute inspection to +make it out. George Brown was consecrated Bishop of Dunkeld by Pope +Sixtus IV. in 1484, and died 14th January 1514-1515, aged seventy-six +years. + +The ruins of a large porch still exist on the south side of the nave +(see Fig. 976). From the forms of the finials and other details it has +evidently been a somewhat late addition. This was, doubtless, the +portico which Canon Myln states was erected by Bishop Lauder at the +south entrance to the church. + +The upper part of the stair turret of the west front, the broken angle +pinnacle at the base of the gable, and the corbelled octagonal finial on +the south-west angle of the south aisle are all late additions. The +corbelled turret at the angle resembles the angle turrets of the +castles. A similar turret exists at the angle of the north transept of +Paisley Abbey. + +The north-west tower is simple and good in design. According to Abbot +Myln’s account, it was not founded till 1469, and in style is good for +the period. The windows of the ground floor and top story are well +designed, and quite equal to the rest of the church. The ground floor is +vaulted, and has been painted in a handsome manner, part of the painting +being still preserved. + +The monument of Bishop Cardeny in the south aisle of the nave, with + +[Illustration: FIG. 979.--Dunkeld Cathedral. North-West Angle of Nave +and Tower.] + +its recumbent statue (see Fig. 975), its carved sarcophagus and arched +canopy, is a good example of Scottish work of the fifteenth century. It +is now much damaged, but the fine carving of the crockets and ornaments, +and the sculptured figures of the angels bearing shields, are still +fairly preserved. The arms on the shields are now so far decayed as to +be with difficulty legible.[28] + +A very fine altar tomb (Fig. 980) still remains in the south side of the +eastern part of the choir, now used as a vestibule to the parish church. +This is the monument of the famous “Wolf of Badenoch,” son of Robert +II., at one time a great enemy to the Church, and the destroyer of Elgin +Cathedral. Having been compelled by the king to do penance, he received +absolution at the hands of the Archbishop of St. Andrews, in the + +[Illustration: FIG. 980.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Monument of the “Wolf of +Badenoch.”] + +Blackfriars Church, at Perth. The monument dates from about 1394. It +contains a massive figure of the “Wolf” in complete armour, with his +feet resting on a lion. On the sarcophagus are carved a number of +figures in armour, in different attitudes.[29] There is a mutilated +headless figure, supposed to represent Bishop Sinclair, lying beside the +“Wolf of Badenoch’s” monument; and other memorials of him are the +engrailed crosses on the east and west gables. These are cut out of the +solid stone, and have probably been renewed. + +Nearly opposite Bishop Cardeny’s monument, against the north wall of the +nave, there is one of those grave slabs (Fig. 981) of which several + +[Illustration: FIG. 981.--Dunkeld Cathedral. Grave Slab.] + +examples have been illustrated, and unfortunately, like most others, it +is in a very wasted condition from exposure to the weather. It is also +broken, as shown on the sketch. The slab is of red sandstone, and +measures 5 ft. 8 in. long by 3 ft. 4 in. wide. It is divided into four +sunk panels, with a three-quarter size figure in each panel, and the +figures are flush with the general surface. It cannot be determined what +the costumes of the figures are. No. 2 has, on the dexter side, a +bishop’s crozier, and, on the sinister side, what may have been a +shield. No. 1 was probably distinguished in the same way, there being +something visible on the sinister side. No. 3 has, on dexter side, a +shield with a lion rampant; on sinister side, a square with initials +only, the last of which (S) is legible. No. 4 is certainly the figure +of a woman, with large epaulets and a necklace; on her dexter side is a +shield with three innescutcheons, probably for Hay, and, on the sinister +side, the initials B. H. Beneath each pair of figures there has been an +inscription--the upper one, as far as legible, being, “This is the +honorabille Bv ... Spovs of Arnetvllie.” Of the other marginal +inscriptions nothing legible can be made out. Along the base of the +stone there are sculptured seven small figures. + +The dates of the different parts of the cathedral, as given by Abbot +Myln, would, if thoroughly reliable, be invaluable in connection with +the history of Scottish architecture. Few, if any, of our ecclesiastical +edifices have the periods of their erection so distinctly recorded. The +peculiarity of the design, however, renders it somewhat difficult to +make any general application of the above dates to the architecture of +other buildings. It seems likely that the different parts of the +structure were begun at the dates given by Abbot Myln, but not completed +for some time thereafter. From the analogy with other Scottish +structures, especially with Paisley Abbey, which it in some respects +closely resembles, the nave of Dunkeld Cathedral must undoubtedly be +classed as belonging to the third pointed period. + + + + +IONA CATHEDRAL, ARGLYESHIRE. + + +The original settlement of St. Columba in Iona took place A.D. 563.[30] +Dr Skene has shown[31] that the place where the monastery was first +situated lay a short distance to the north of the existing ruins. The +vallum which enclosed the establishment can still be traced, as well as +the burying-ground, the site of the mill, and other features; but the +principal erections, being constructed of wood and wattle, have +necessarily disappeared. Owing to the destruction of the buildings by +fire in 802 and the slaughter of the monks, it was thought desirable, in +818, to rebuild the monastery in stone for greater security, and also to +remove it to the present site, which is better protected by nature. But +the buildings were again destroyed by the Northmen, and seem to have +remained in a ruinous state till 1074, when some attempt to restore the +monastery was made by Queen Margaret. + +In 1099 the last of the old order of abbots died, and for more than +fifty years there is an unbroken silence regarding Iona. All the Western +Islands had at this time passed under the rule of the Norwegian King of +the Isles, by whom nothing was done to maintain the religious +establishments, and Iona fell into a state of decay. The rule of the +Norwegian Kings of the Isles having become oppressive, Somerled, King of +Argyll, was applied to for protection, and after a great naval battle, +fought between him and Godred, King of the Isles, in 1156, all the +islands south of Ardnamurchan Point were ceded to Somerled. Amongst +these was Iona, where Reginald, the son of Somerled, undertook the +rebuilding of the monastery on a larger scale. He adopted the policy of +the Scottish kings, and introduced one of the religious orders of the +Roman Church. + +“Macvurich tells us that ‘three monasteries were formed by him--the +monastery of Black Monks in I or Iona, in honour of God and Saint +Columchelle; a monastery of Black Nuns in the same place; and a +monastery of Gray friars in Sagadul, or Saddle, in Kintyre;’ and he +appears to have established the Benedictines or Black Monks in Iona in +the year 1203.” + +“The deed of confirmation of the Benedictine Monastery still exists in +the Vatican. It is dated the 9th December 1203, and is addressed to +Celestinus, abbot of Saint Columba, of the island of Hy, and his +brethren professing a religious life; and the pope takes the monastery +of Saint Columba under the protection of Saint Peter and the pope, in +order that the monastic order which has been instituted in that place, +according to the rule of Saint Benedict, may be preserved inviolate in +all time to come; and he confirms to them the place itself in which the +said monastery is situated, with its pertinents, consisting of churches, +islands, and lands in the Western Isles.”[32] + +Celestine, the abbot of this monastery, appears to have attempted to +thrust out the prior Celtic community; but the latter, with the support +of the clergy of the north of Ireland, resisted and vindicated their +right to remain in the monastery. The Celtic community, however, appear +to have ultimately adopted the Benedictine rule, “while the functionary +formerly known as the Head of the Culdees was represented by the prior +of Iona, whom we afterwards find in the monastery.” + +About 1200 the districts to the west of the great range of Drumalban, +which formerly belonged to the diocese of Dunkeld, were separated from +it and formed into a new bishopric, first called of Argyle and +afterwards of Lismore. + +During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries Iona was under the Bishop +of Dunkeld, but in 1507 John, Bishop of the Isles, obtained the +annexation of Iona to his see, and the Abbey Church became the cathedral +of the diocese, and so continued till the Reformation. + +In 1561 the abbey suffered from the Act anent “demolishing all the +abbeys of monks and friars, and for suppressing whatsoever monuments of +idolatrie were remaining in the realm.” The carrying out of this Act was +remitted to Argyll and Glencairn, and much has been written with regard +to the great damage caused by the mob to the buildings and monuments and +the valuable library. + +The island passed into the hands of M‘Lean of Duart, but from 1567 +onwards the Protestant bishops of the Isles seem to have had the abbey +in their possession. The buildings, however, appear to have been +neglected, and Charles I., in 1635, directed £400 to be spent in +repairing them. But that does not appear to have been done, and by the +end of the seventeenth century the edifices had fallen into ruin. In +1693 the island came into the hands of the House of Argyll, and within +recent years the ancient buildings have been put in a good state of +preservation by the present Duke. + +The edifices which still survive in the island, although ruinous, +exhibit probably the completest and most interesting group of ancient +ecclesiastical structures in Scotland. + +There is first the Chapel of St. Oran, a small twelfth century +structure, surrounded by the very ancient churchyard, which contains so +many beautiful specimens of Highland carved tombstones,[33] admirably +illustrated by the late James Drummond, R.S.A., in his work on Highland +monuments. Then there are the remains of the Benedictine Monastery, and +those of the Benedictine Nunnery, at a short distance on each side of +St. Oran’s, both of which, though sadly mutilated, still show the +general plan of the church and domestic edifices of these monastic +establishments more completely than any other Scottish examples. + +The Church of St. Oran has already been described.[34] + +The nunnery is also described among the Norman structures.[35] + +The abbey or cathedral, which is now to be described, is classed along +with the buildings of the third pointed period, as the greater part of +the work connected with it belongs to a late date. + +When the great distance of the Island of Iona from the centre of +operations of mediæval architecture is considered, it is not unnatural +to find those deviations from the rules and practice of the art which +are so frequent in Scottish architecture even more accentuated here than +is usual. The connection of the locality with the Celtic art of Ireland +and the west of Scotland has also had considerable influence in moulding +the style of the carving and decoration of the Cathedral of the +Isles.[36] + +These facts, although rendering the building somewhat difficult to class +along with the general architecture of the recognised periods of Gothic +in Scotland, yet add much to the interest of this isolated and unique +structure. + +It should also be noticed that the cathedral shows signs in all +directions of having been much altered and added to; but as the style of +the masonry of the walls is much the same throughout, whatever its date, +it is somewhat difficult to trace the points of junction of the work of +the various periods. This masonry of all dates consists of large blocks +of red granite of irregular shape, set with flat untooled face to the +outside, and with filling-in of smaller pieces of granite and slaty +stones between the larger blocks. + +The monastery (Fig. 982) consists of the church, which contains a + +[Illustration: FIG. 982.--Iona Cathedral. Plan.] + +choir, 62 feet 6 inches long by 23 feet wide, with a south aisle; a +nave, 60 feet 9 inches long by 22 feet 6 inches wide; north and south +transepts, + +[Illustration: FIG. 983.--Iona Cathedral. The Choir, looking East.] + +and a tower over the crossing. The eastern part of the choir (Fig. 983) +forms the presbytery, which, like that of most Scottish churches, is +without aisles, and is lighted by a large central and two side windows, +all containing late tracery. On the south side of the choir, west of the +presbytery, is an aisle, separated from it by two circular piers and +three arches. From above the caps of the piers two bold arches are +thrown across the south aisle, after the manner of flying buttresses +(Fig. 984). It will be observed from this view that there is a +peculiarity of construction in the upper part of the choir walls, the +clerestory windows being placed over the piers and not over the arches, +as is usual. This arrangement has had the effect of preventing the +flying arches or buttresses from being carried as high as they might +have been (Fig. 985) had the windows been placed over the arches in the +ordinary manner. The flying arches or buttresses are thus very low, and +interfere with the space in the aisle (see Plan). There are a sedilia, +with three divisions, and a piscina (Fig. 986) near the east end of the +south wall of the choir. Part of the pavement there still exists, and +two steps are observable in the floor. + +On the north side of the choir is the sacristy, which occupies the place +of the north aisle. The door to the sacristy (Fig. 987) is of fine +design, and the ornament of the caps of the shafts (Fig. 988), together +with the caps of the piers between the choir and the south aisle and the +arches of the crossing (Figs. 989 and 990), exhibit fine examples of +Celtic carving, mixed with grotesque figures. Carving of an identical +description is shown in Figs. 991 and 992 on slabs in St. Oran’s Chapel, +one of which, dated 1489, also exhibits late Gothic ornaments on the +edge. This stone bears the following inscription, from which it would +appear to be in memory of the father of Abbot Macfingone, and of the +abbot himself (whose tomb and monument are preserved in the choir, as +will be pointed out further on):--“Hec: est: Crux: Laeclanni: Meic: +fingone: et: ejus: fil--Ohannis: Abbatis: de: Hy: facta: Anno: domini: +Mº. CCCCLXXX: IXº. Numerous examples of carving of a very similar +description occur throughout the West Highlands, and, where dated, are +all of about the above period. The undated specimens are also distinctly +in the same style and of the same epoch. There can, therefore, be no +hesitation in assigning the sculpture in the cathedral, which is of a +similar character (such as the caps in Figs. 988 and 990), to about the +same date. The dog-tooth ornaments in Fig. 993 and other similar +examples, which are not rare at Iona and throughout the Western Islands, +are thus clearly a revival, at a late date, of ancient forms. + +Close to the sacristy door, but raised to a considerable height above +the choir floor, stands a round column (see Fig. 983), which supports +two pointed arches. These arches appear to have opened into an upper +aisle or chapel. They are carved with rows of dog-tooth or nail-head +ornaments, which have the appearance of thirteenth century work; but as +they are + +[Illustration: FIG. 984.--Iona Cathedral. View from South-East.] + +much decayed, they are probably of the late date to which, as we have +seen, many examples of imitation dog-tooth enrichments at Iona and +elsewhere belong. + +The parapet of the choir (see Fig. 984) is simple, and is supported on +massive corbels, like those common in the castles of Scotland. The water +of the gutters escapes by small apertures through the parapet. + +[Illustration: FIG. 985.--Iona Cathedral. Choir Pier and Arch of South +Aisle.] + +The nave contains a good western doorway of late design (Fig. 994), with +three orders of mouldings in the jambs, which have no caps, but have the +jamb mouldings carried round the pointed arch. The nave and transepts +have no aisles. The windows of the nave (Fig. 995) are much damaged. At +each end of the south wall is a small single pointed light, + +[Illustration: FIG. 986.--Iona Cathedral. Sedilia and Piscina in +Choir.] + +and there has been a triple light window, with tracery, in the centre. +The single light window at the east end of the nave has a carved head, +with a water table over it, inserted above the window. Part of the north + +[Illustration: FIG. 987.--Iona Cathedral. Door to Sacristy.] + +wall of the nave is demolished (see Fig. 994), and a door to the +cloister near the west end has been built up (see Plan). + +The north transept has two deeply-arched recesses in the east wall, +containing small windows and a central arched recess, which seems to +have contained a statue. This is apparently the oldest part of the whole +edifice, the arches, shafts, and caps in the east wall (Fig. 996) +having very much the character of transition work. A small window in the +west wall, raised so as to be above the cloister roof (see Fig. 994), +throws light on the point where the altar stood. + +[Illustration: FIG. 988.--Iona Cathedral. Caps of Doorway to Sacristy.] + +The south transept is 22 feet by 17 feet, and is lighted by a three +light traceried window in the south gable wall (see Fig. 984), and a +small window placed at a considerable height in the west wall (see Fig. +995). The parapet and corbel table are the same as those of the choir. + +The crossing has four arches opening into the choir, nave, and +transepts, which carry a tower, 29 feet by 25 feet, over the walls, +rising to two stories in height above the eaves, and crowned with a +plain parapet, supported on simple corbels (see Figs. 984 and 994). The +upper story has rectangular windows on each face, three of them filled +with tracery of late patterns, and the one on the north with a window +containing simple tracery + +[Illustration: FIG. 989.--Iona Cathedral. Caps of Piers of Choir and +Crossing.] + +(Fig. 997). The lintels are composed of straight arches, supported by a +remarkable shaft on the inside, which recalls the turned shafts of +pre-Norman work. The access to the tower is by a small wheel staircase +at the south-west angle of the crossing. The original doorway of the +staircase entered from the nave, but, after the Reformation, the +adjoining + +[Illustration: FIG. 990.--Iona Cathedral. Caps of Crossing, &c.] + +west arch of the crossing was built up, and a new door, with a small +enclosing wall, was formed from the crossing into the wheel stair (as +shown in the Plan). In the upper part of the tower are built recesses, +as if meant for pigeons’ nests; and the upper floor in the roof of the + +[Illustration: FIG. 991.--Iona Cathedral. + +Carved Slab in St. Oran’s.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 992.--Iona Cathedral. + +Macfingone’s Slab in St. Oran’s.] + +tower is lighted with slits in the wall near the corners, except on the +south side, where a larger opening is introduced and filled with tracery +(see Fig. 984). + +The whole of the church has been roofed with timber, but is now quite +open to the weather. The stone corbels intended to carry the principals +of the roof still remain where the walls are complete (see Fig. 983). + +Externally, the most prominent features are the buttresses and base +course (see Figs. 984 and 995). These exist round most of the south wall +of the nave, part of the south transept, and the east end of the choir. +The angle buttresses have the general form, with bead on angle and +sloping table on top, of thirteenth century work, and the broad, sloping +base has also a similar character. Several small intermediate buttresses +are introduced, which are in many cases awkwardly situated as regards +the windows, being kept below the window sills. The base course on the +south side of the nave is set at a level several feet above that of the +south transept (see Fig. 995). It is stopped suddenly before reaching +the eastmost bay of the nave. The base also stops equally suddenly on +the west wall of the south transept, a few feet from the south-west +angle buttress. The base course and buttresses would thus seem, where +they exist, to indicate a rebuilding of those portions of the walls, the +portions left without a base course being possibly older. Although the +forms of the base course and buttresses are of early design, there is no +doubt but that they are late erections, and that the forms and design +are revivals or imitations of older features. Their association with the +late doorway of the nave and the late traceries of the choir and south +transept sufficiently proves their comparatively recent construction. + +[Illustration: FIG. 993.--Iona Cathedral. + +Dog-tooth Ornaments on Slab.] + +In the above general description of the cathedral, the probable dates of +the various parts have been casually referred to. It is now proposed to +explain more fully the dates we would assign to the different portions +of the structure and the reasons for doing so. + +Dr. Skene has the following footnote[37]-- + +“One of the columns which supports the great tower of the Abbey Church +has on the upper portion the inscription, ‘Donaldus O’Brolchan fecit hoc +opus,’ and seems to think that that inscription fixes the name of the +builder of the church. Messrs. Buckler, in their description of the +architecture of the cathedral,[38] give the above inscription as +reading, ‘Donaldus ornatum fecit hoc opus.’” + +The inscription is not now legible, but even if it were, it could give +little clue to the date of the edifice. + +[Illustration: FIG. 994.--Iona Cathedral. View from North-West, showing +Cloister Garth, Central Tower, &c.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 995.--Iona Cathedral. General View of Cathedral and +St. Oran’s Chapel, from South-West.] + +There will probably be little difference of opinion regarding the +antiquity of the east wall of the north transept (see Fig. 996). The +character of the arches, shafts, and caps, even worn away as they are, +is distinctly late Norman or transition. The small round headed windows +in the recesses of the wide internal bays are also quite in keeping with +that + +[Illustration: FIG. 996.--Iona Cathedral. East Side of North Transept.] + +style. The depth of the recesses on each side of the central arch, with +its figure, which form a special feature, was rendered necessary by the +extra width of the wall required (as will be pointed out further on) to +admit of a passage in the thickness of the wall above. Almost all the +rest of the church appears to be of a much later date, and to belong, +with small exceptions, to the late fifteenth or early part of the +sixteenth century. + +Part of the crossing, however, is probably older; but the other portions +of the crossing seem to have been rebuilt at a late date, as the +following indications show. The original arches of the north and west +sides have no mouldings, but are only chamfered, and the caps, so far as +visible, have an ancient character. The north arch has, at some period, +been strengthened by the insertion of additional piers, and an +additional arch within the then existing piers and arch (see Plan). The +old arch is distinctly visible in the wall, and portions of the old +piers are also exposed to view. + +[Illustration: FIG. 997.--Iona Cathedral. North Side of Refectory.] + +The arches of the east and south sides of the crossing are of a +different character from the above, the arches being fully moulded. The +piers (Fig. 998) do not differ much from those of the older sides, and +are all of an early form of design. The same character is kept up in the +inserted piers of the north arch, although these must undoubtedly be +later than the original piers. The mouldings seem all to have been +imitated from early forms (such as we find in the choir arch of the +nunnery).[39] The changes in the plans of the piers and mouldings, +common in the central districts of the mainland, would be long in +reaching this distant spot, and the old forms appear to have been, +therefore, adhered to. Such continuations or imitations of early forms +are very common in Scotland. It should be observed that the outer or +central shaft of each pier has a fillet on its central line, which +indicates (especially here) a somewhat advanced date (see Fig. 996). The +bases are of a very late type, as also the caps, both of which differ +from those of the earlier piers. From these facts we infer that the +south and east sides of the crossing have been rebuilt at a late period, +possibly at the time when the tower was erected. That part of the +edifice is always justly regarded as being very late, and the +rectangular windows and their tracery clearly support that view. If the +above supposition is correct, then the insertion of the additional piers +and arch under the north tower arch is explained. That addition would be +made at the time the tower was built, in order to make sure that the +support was sufficient to carry it. Similar extra strengthening was not +necessary in the case of the west arch, as it already had sufficient +piers and supports; and the additions to the piers of the north arch, +which + +[Illustration: FIG. 998.--Iona Cathedral. + +South-East Pier of Crossing.] + +previously were small, simply made them of similar strength to those of +the west arch. + +We therefore conclude that the original north and west arches and piers +of the crossing are old, perhaps of the thirteenth century; while the +east and south arches and piers have been rebuilt, and the additional +piers and arch added to the north opening, probably when the tower was +erected. + +Let us now turn to the choir. When we consider the forms of the tracery +of the three windows of the presbytery (see Figs. 983 and 984, and the +north window in Fig. 999), the thickness of the mullions, and the number +and smallness of their mouldings, there cannot be much difficulty in +assigning these windows to a late date. The forms and decorations of the +arches of the sedilia (see Fig. 986) also clearly indicate a late +period. These are exceedingly good of their kind, and it is a misfortune +that the Celtic ornament with which they are covered is now so far +decayed as to be scarcely legible; but there can be no question as to +the lateness of their date. + +On turning to the south aisle the same impression is received. The +circular and stunted form of the piers, with their remarkable bases and +the peculiar form of their enriched capitals (see Figs. 989 and 990), +strike one at once with the idea that they belong to a late and rather +debased epoch. The insertion of the clerestory windows over the piers +(an arrangement which is also met with at the nunnery) is bad +construction, and led to the adoption of the low and poor flying +buttresses (which are evidently an afterthought) as a means of steadying +the main structure. + +[Illustration: FIG. 999.--Iona Cathedral. Window in North Side of Choir, +East End of South Aisle, &c.] + +The north side of the choir is so peculiar in its arrangements that +little can be gathered from it with regard to dates. If the pillar and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1000.--Iona Cathedral. + +Section of Arch Mouldings.] + +arches of the high chapel over the sacristy (see Fig. 983) are of +thirteenth century work, as their ornamentation would at first sight +lead one to suppose, they might possibly have been re-erected in their +present position; but they are more likely to have been made in +imitation of thirteenth century work, and built here at a late period. +The section of the arch mouldings (Fig. 1000) is almost identical with +that of the chapter house arches, which (as will be afterwards +explained) are almost undoubtedly of very late date. + +These arches gave a view of the altar from a high chapel, which, as will +be pointed out, was perhaps connected with the library or dormitory. The +chapel has been added to the church, and the walls are not bonded into +the choir. The decoration of the upper portion, with its imitation +dog-tooth or nail-head ornament round a straight sided arch (Fig. 1001), +shows that it is of very late date. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1001.--Iona Cathedral. Interior of Sacristy and +Chapel above.] + +This structure appears to occupy the position of the original north +aisle, which at one time extended (or was contemplated) the full length +from the presbytery to the north transept. The water table over the old +aisle roof runs the whole length, and has a sloping water table where +the roof abutted against the north transept. The old corbels to receive +the timbers of the aisle roof also still exist. The aisle would no doubt +block one of the Norman transept windows, but that could not be +avoided. + +The doorway from the choir to the sacristy (see Fig. 987) is a very fine +feature, and one would be inclined to consider it somewhat earlier than +the other parts of the sacristy and upper chapel. Possibly it may have +formed an access to the aisle before the upper chapel was raised to its +present position. + +The above examination of the choir, south aisle, and sacristy leads to +the belief that they are all of a late period, probably about 1500. The +entire building bears evidence of having been in whole or part +re-erected about the end of the fifteenth century or the beginning of +the sixteenth century, possibly when it became the Cathedral of the +Isles in 1506. Some portions, such as the north transept, the north and +west sides of the crossing, the wheel stair to the tower and parts of +the walling connected therewith, are older; but all the rest, including +the east and south arches of the crossing, is of a much later date. +Besides the points to which attention has been drawn above, it may be +noted that the buttresses of the choir, which from their form may have +been raised from ancient bases, have on each angle a single bead on +their lower part and a triple bead on the upper part (see Fig. 984). The +upper story of the tower, which is admittedly very late, has also a +triple bead on the angles of the top story. May it not have happened +that the building suffered from some cause, or was intentionally taken +down and reconstructed about the end of the fifteenth or beginning of +the sixteenth century? Such an event might account for the antique form +of the buttresses, which may have been raised from existing portions of +old buttresses; while the triple bead on their upper story would show +the change of style introduced at the time of the reconstruction. It +would also explain the preservation of the old doorway to the sacristy, +while the upper parts of the walls were rebuilt. The very irregular +appearance of the lower part of the north wall of the choir might also +be thus accounted for. The interior string course on the north side, +which rises in large steps from the sacristy door, is composed of stones +partly enriched and partly plain, as if it formed part of a +reconstruction in which old materials had been reused. The clerestory +windows, with their ancient forms, are doubtless reproductions of the +outlines which formerly existed. + +The section of the south-east pier of the crossing (see Fig. 998) shows +that the south transept is of about the same period as the choir, the +round responds in each corresponding with the circular piers of the +choir, and the carved caps being very similar in both (see Figs. 989 and +990); and the south wall of the transept, with its late traceried window +and buttresses and base course, is evidently of the same period as the +presbytery. The mouldings of the mullions are in both cases returned +along the sills, an unusual and late arrangement. + +The rebuilt part of the crossing has arch moulds which correspond in +style with those of the south aisle arches, and the sculpture of the +caps + +[Illustration: FIG. 1002.--Iona Cathedral. Chapter House.] + +also corresponds with that of the aisle piers, both containing, as above +mentioned, fine examples of Celtic foliage and figures. The peculiar +traceried windows at the east end of the south aisle of choir and the +adjoining piscina (see Fig. 999) are also clearly of late date. + +The cloister lies to the north of the nave; it measures 73 feet from +north to south by 66 feet from east to west. The cloister walk has had a +wooden roof all round, resting on corbels (see Fig. 994) in the main +wall, and on an arcade on the side next the cloister garth. Some +fragments of the shafts and arches of the arcade are preserved in the +chapter house, and the bases of a twin column, socketed for the shafts, +stand on the wall at the north-west angle. The arcade would thus appear +to have rested on coupled shafts, and, so far as can be ascertained by +examination of the only surviving portion at the south-west angle and +the fragments in the chapter house, the arches were pointed and carved +with Celtic ornament somewhat similarly to the arches of the sedilia in +the choir (see Fig. 986). In each angle of the cloister walk an arch has +been thrown across the walk diagonally, so as to strengthen and steady +the walls. Only one of these arches, that at the south-west angle (see +Fig. 994), remains entire, those in the other angles being reduced to +fragments. This arch is the only one which is moulded on the edge, the +others being splayed. These arches have evidently been built after the +walls adjoining, as they fit awkwardly against previously existing +doorways at the north-east and north-west angles. That at the south-west +angle butts against a structure which seems to have formed a turret +adjoining the north-west angle of the nave. This turret contains a small +chamber, at about 7 feet to 8 feet above the floor of the nave, which +enters by a small door from the nave, and is said to be the porter’s +lodge. It has a curiously cusped loophole opening in the direction of +the church door. + +The cloister is surrounded by buildings on the east and north. The north +transept has a door to the cloister, and a benitier is placed near the +entrance. Next to the transept on the north is a chamber, 10 feet wide, +entering from the cloister (see Fig. 982), and lighted by a window to +the east. There is a fireplace in the east wall of this room, being the +only fireplace in the monastery. It seems doubtful whether this chamber +was not originally the slype or passage from the cloister towards the +east, as there is no other passage. + +Next to this, on the north, is the chapter house, which projects beyond +the general line of the buildings, the portion next the cloister having +the appearance of a vestibule. The inner cloister enters from the +vestibule by two arches (Fig. 1002), which rest on a central round +pillar and corbels at the sides. This pillar is sometimes stated to be +of Norman work, and the chapter house is, consequently, regarded as of +Norman date. But a careful examination of the pillar and its capital +leads to the conclusion that it is comparatively a late structure. The +carving of the cap (Fig. 1003) is very peculiar. On the outer or west +side, the ornament, which is somewhat decayed, resembles that of the +caps of the adjoining nunnery church, and may easily be mistaken for +ancient. But the ornament of the inner or east side of the cap (see Fig. +1003) is quite different, and is undoubtedly of very late design, being +similar to that on the carved tombstones of the fifteenth or sixteenth +centuries, such as that in Figs. 991 and 992. The dog-tooth or nail-head +ornament of the arches, although at first sight like first pointed work, +is found, on closer inspection, to consist of late imitations--showing +three small nail-heads placed close together, so as to form an +enrichment in a manner not at all transition like. The same remark +applies to the enrichments of the high chapel in the choir (see Fig. +1000). + +[Illustration: FIG. 1003.--Iona Cathedral. Details of Central Pillar in +Chapter House.] + +The walls of the eastern part of the cloister are not over 2 feet 6 +inches in thickness (which would be very unusual in Norman work), and +they have been strengthened by interior piers when the present flat +barrel arch was erected over the chapter house. This probably took place +when the upper part of this portion of the building was raised a story +in height, possibly in order to form the library on the upper floor. It +is evident, from an examination of the junction of the walls on the +exterior, that the upper floor of this part of the building was added at +a late period. Both vestibule and chapter house appear to have had a +stone seat running along the walls, and the whole may possibly have +formed the place of assembly of the monks. Probably, like the chapter +house at St. Andrews, the western portion, or vestibule, was the +original chapter house, and the inner division was added at a later +period. + +From the chapter house a passage is visible in the upper part of the +east wall of the north transept. In order to admit of this, the wall of +the transept (as above pointed out) has required to be made of great +thickness, and this explains the depth of the two recesses under it in +the transept previously referred to. As already mentioned, there was an +upper floor over the chapter house and the adjoining portions of the +east range of the cloister buildings. Part of this upper floor is +believed to have been the library--the literary treasures of which were +famous--and part would, no doubt, be the dormitory of the monks. + +It seems not improbable that the passage in the transept wall may have +led from the library or dormitory to the chapel in the upper aisle of +the choir over the sacristy, and the use of that chapel would thus be +explained. The chapel, as already mentioned, is a structure of late +erection, as is apparent from the imitation dog-tooth running round the +straight-sided arch of the east window (see Fig. 1002). The passage in +the transept wall may be much older, but was possibly utilised in +connection with the late reconstruction of the monastery, as above +suggested. + +To the north of the chapter house are two chambers of good size, over +which an upper story has extended, as the remains of the windows show. + +The north side of the cloister has been occupied by the refectory, a +building 63 feet long by 20 feet wide. It is situated on the first or +upper floor, and is of late work; but seems to occupy the position of a +previous refectory, which formerly stood on the site, and of which some +portions of the walls remain. The first refectory appears to have been +on the ground floor, as the remains of what must have been a handsome +doorway in the south wall near the west end of this range prove. This +doorway has had three orders of mouldings with shafts and caps, about 7 +feet high, apparently of thirteenth century work, of which some +fragments remain, partly built into the adjoining angle structure. The +latter is evidently a late erection, as it encloses part of the west +jamb of the above doorway. The pier of the diagonal arch of the cloister +walk at the east end of the refectory also encroaches on the door beside +it. At a somewhat late period the refectory has been raised to the upper +floor, and an entrance made to it by a wide staircase at the east end +(which would also probably form the day staircase to the dormitory). The +ground floor is low, and has loopholes for windows. It has apparently +been used for cellars or storages. There is a wide pointed doorway +leading into it at the north-west angle (see Fig. 997). The north +elevation of the structure is fairly preserved. + +The buttresses seem to be reconstructions on the lines of the original +ones, but the windows, both in the north elevation and towards the +cloister, are of later date. + +The eastern range of buildings is continued northwards beyond the +refectory by a chamber 33 feet long by 12 feet 6 inches wide, which +seems to have been connected on the upper floor with a lavatory and +latrine. The latter has a built channel, evidently intended, from the +low aperture at each end, for the passage of a stream of water, which +could be easily led into it from the neighbouring burn. To the west of +this stand the walls, 3 feet high, of a nearly detached edifice, with a +separate outer doorway, which may perhaps have been an infirmary. To the +north-east, the low walls are observable of a detached structure 58 feet +9 inches long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. The only wall opening traceable +is the doorway, which has been of simple design. This is supposed by +some to have been the kitchen, but it seems doubtful. There is no +appearance of a fireplace. + +A small detached chapel, 38 feet in length by 20 feet 9 inches in width +over the walls, lies to the north-east of the chapter house. It has had +a doorway in the north wall, a small centre window in the east wall, and +a similar window in each of the side walls near the east end. The +windows are trefoil headed and cusped, and appear to be late. The +doorway had two orders, with a bead on each. The orientation of this +building is different from that of the cathedral. + +Adjoining the south-west angle of the cloister, and built out from it, +is a small enclosure containing stone coffins (see Fig. 994). +Immediately beyond this are the remains of another enclosure, connected +with a Celtic cross (called St. Martin’s) near the west end of the +cathedral (see Fig. 995). The inner of these chambers, which encloses +the stone coffins, is called “St. Columba’s Tomb.” Dr. Skene is of +opinion that it is actually the structure which contained the body of +St. Columba, the coffin of that Saint being placed on the right or south +side, and that of St. Blathmac (a martyr who died in defending the abbey +against the Northmen in 825) being placed on the left or north side. +This view is, however, controverted by Sir Henry Dryden in a MS. of +1879, deposited in the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh. + +There is also a well in the same locality as the above enclosures. + +The ruins of a chapel of some size (48 feet long by 30 feet wide over +the walls) lie at a short distance to the west of the cloister. The +walls are reduced to a few feet in height, and are partly rebuilt in a +rough manner. There seems to have been a doorway in the east end, but +this is doubtless not original. A turret can be traced at the south-east +angle and another at the south-west angle. + +To the north-east of the cloister lie the total ruins of what is called +the Abbot’s House, and at some distance to the south-east of the church +may be observed the greatly demolished remains of a chapel. + +In the choir are preserved several monuments. On the south side, close +to the sedilia (see Fig. 986), lies the well sculptured effigy of Abbot +Kenneth; and on the north side, near the door of the sacristy, is the +effigy of Abbot M‘Kinnon, the last abbot of Iona (the head being visible +in Fig. 987), around which is legible the following inscription, “Hic +jacet Johannes MacFingone, Abbas de Hy qui obiit anno Domini Millessimo +Quingentessimo cujus animae propitietur Deus Altissimus. Amen.” + +In the floor of the choir a large slab shows the remains of brass work, +and against the east wall rests the carved figure of a knight, with +shield and spear, said to be the monument of a M‘Lean (see Fig. 983). + + + + +ST. MACHAR’S CATHEDRAL, OLD ABERDEEN. + + +Old Aberdeen is situated on the river Don, about two miles north from +the town of Aberdeen on the Dee. The cathedral, which is dedicated to +St. Machar, is built in granite, and is now considerably reduced in size +from its original dimensions. The nave (Fig. 1004) is entire and is used +as the parish church. The walls of the transepts exist only to the +height of about 10 feet. The choir has been entirely destroyed. The +bishop’s palace, which stood at the east end of the cathedral, has also +disappeared. It was a large building, and “had a fine court, having a +high tower at each of its four corners; an outer and inner gate; with a +deep well in the middle of the court; and an iron gate by which the +bishop passed from his palace into the choir.”[40] + +The cathedral stands on the north side of an extensive churchyard, and +the situation is pleasant, having the houses of the chanonry--some of +them quaint-looking and interesting--approaching it on the south. On the +north it is skirted by high trees, which grow on a steep bank sloping +down from the cathedral towards the Don. + +The seat of the bishop was translated from Murthlack or Mortlack, in +Banffshire, to Aberdeen by King David I. in the year 1136, St. Nectan +being the last bishop of Mortlack and the first of Aberdeen. The third +bishop, Matthew Kinninmond, began to build a cathedral between 1183 and +1199 to supersede the primitive church then existing, “which [new +building], because it was not glorious enough, Bishop Cheyne threw +down.”[41] + +A second edifice was begun by Bishop Cheyne shortly after 1282, and the +work went on till the time when the country was involved in the war with +Edward I. After Bruce was seated on the throne, Cheyne was temporarily +banished, and “during his absence the king, seeing the new cathedral he +had begun, made the church to be built with the revenues of the +bishoprick.”[42] + +The cathedral thus erected was in its turn thrown down by Bishop +Alexander Kinninmond, who succeeded in 1355, and he began a new building +on a still larger scale about the year 1370. Of his operations there +remain two large piers for the support of the central tower, which form +the earliest portion of the structure of St. Machar’s now remaining. +These piers are built of red freestone, and are much more graceful and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1004.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. Plan.] + +refined in character than the succeeding work, most of which is +constructed in granite. Bishop Kinninmond may possibly have built the +bay of the nave adjoining for a buttress to the central tower. Freestone +mouldings similar to those of the tower still remain at the springing, +as if they had continued across to the first pillar; but the arch must +have been taken down, as the existing bays are all of granite, and the +granite mouldings--which are of quite a different section--are seen to +butt against those of Kinninmond’s time. + +The nave may be said to be all of one period, and appears to have been +principally built, including the two western towers, by Bishop Henry +Leighton between 1422 and 1440. It was roofed in by his successor, +Bishop Lindsay, and in the _View of the Diocese_ it is said to have been +leaded over by the Bishops Elphinston and Dunbar, and “ceiled by this +last,” A.D. 1518-1531. The flat ceiling of oak erected by Bishop Dunbar +still remains (Fig. 1005), having been constructed by him at his own +“pains and expenses.” “James Winter, an Angus man, was architect of the +timber work and ceiling of said church; which was well done, and may +make his name famous to after ages.”[43] It is ornamented with heraldic +decorations, containing the arms of various European kings, Pope Leo X., +the Scottish nobility, and Churchmen. These have been drawn and +illustrated in colour by the New Spalding Club. Bishop Dunbar also +finished Leighton’s towers by adding the spires (Fig. 1006) in grey +freestone. The general colour of the granite work is of a reddish yellow +tint. + +The edifice as it now stands measures on the outside as follows, +viz.--length of nave about 143 feet, width 77 feet. The transept is +about 121 feet long by 37 feet 6 inches wide. The centre alley of the +nave is 30 feet 6 inches wide. The towers are about 23 feet 6 inches +square, and about 111 feet high. + +The west front of St. Machar’s (see Fig. 1006) is entirely built with +granite, except the spires, and is one of the most impressive and +imposing structures in Scotland. It is extremely plain, not a single +scrap of carving being visible anywhere, and most of the openings are of +the simplest kind. This front is a veritable piece of Doric work, +depending for its effect on its just proportion and the mass of its +granite masonry. The towers and spires are of equal height, and almost +identical in design. The great corbels and machicolations of the parapet +are clearly derived from castellated forms, and the embrasured bands +round the spires and their numerous lucarnes are distinct signs of the +late date of their construction. The entrance doorway (Fig. 1007) is +remarkable, the jambs being mere rounds and hollows, with a flat stone +laid along at the springing of the round arch, marking where the +capitals usually stand, while the arch mouldings are of the most +elementary kind, all being designed to suit the hard granite of which +they are constructed. Above this doorway is one of the most striking +features of the composition, viz.--the seven lofty narrow windows (see +Fig. 1006), about 26 feet in height, and each crowned + +[Illustration: FIG. 1005.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. The Nave, looking +West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1006.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. West Front.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1007.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. West Doorway.] + +with a round and cusped arch (Fig. 1009). The ground story of both +towers is barrel vaulted; the apartment in the south tower has had a +rude door knocked through the front wall, and is now used as a place for +keeping spades and shovels in. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1008.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. View from +South-West.] + +The south elevation (Fig. 1008) is marked by the same simplicity as the +west front, being designed to suit the intractable material of which it +is built. The clerestory is an absolutely plain wall, pierced by narrow +round arched windows, without a moulding of any kind, while the windows +of the side aisles are filled with the simplest tracery. The effect of +this part of the building is much marred by the removal of the parapet +which formerly ran along the top of the wall. The south porch is a +dignified structure. It was evidently meant to have a room over the +entrance, for which a window is provided; but there is no indication of +there ever having been an upper floor or an access stair, and the +considerable height, as viewed from the inside, has an unmeaning +appearance. The resemblance between this porch and the south porch of +St. Michael’s, Linlithgow, is striking, both having the inner +crow-stepped gable built on the aisle wall. In the latter porch the +upper room has been completed. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1009. + +St. Machar’s Cathedral. + +Top of West Windows.] + +The north aisle wall of the cathedral, which is fortunately not so well +seen as the south wall, is quite modern, and has a mean and paltry +appearance. + +The pillars in the nave (see Fig. 1005) are all round on Plan, with +round moulded caps and very simple bases. These are shown in section in +Fig. 1005, and also on a larger scale in Fig. 1010, which contains +Scougal’s monument (afterwards referred to), and where there is also a +view of part of the interior of the large west window. Beside the sketch +of this monument will be seen a stone containing the arms, surmounted by +a mitre, probably of Bishop Stewart, who died in 1565 (a fesse chequé +debruised by a bend engrailed). + +In the view of the interior (see Fig. 1005) it may be observed that the +full thickness of the clerestory walls does not come down to the caps of +the pillars, but stops short a few feet above. This arrangement has an +unpleasing effect in perspective, leaving a portion of the cap +projecting and bearing nothing. The two piers at the crossing, as +already mentioned, are of freestone and are of clustered form, and have +richly carved capitals. These capitals are necessarily concealed by the +building up of the arches, which lead from the nave to the crossing. +Fig. 1011 shows a part of one of these capitals, which can be seen from +the transept. + +Regarding the choir nothing can be now said from observation, as it was +destroyed in 1560, and the ruins have since been entirely removed. +Alluding to this, Orme says (p. 104)--“The glorious structure of said +Cathedral Church being near nine score years in building, did not remain +twenty entire, when it was almost ruined by a crew of sacrilegious +church robbers.” + +There was an old choir standing in Bishop Elphinston’s time, early in +the sixteenth century, which, as Boece tells us in his life of that +prelate,[44] was considered by the bishop to be in a style unworthy such +a church, and he began to rebuild it on a plan corresponding with the +western part of the building; “but lest he should die before it was +completed, he would not take down the old choir till everything was in +readiness to begin the new one, so that a considerable part was finished +before his death.” The work was continued by his successors, but it +seems doubtful if it ever was entirely completed before the Reformation +burst on the country. + +The building of the central steeple, which had been partly carried out +by Bishop Leighton, was finally completed by Bishop Elphinston about +1511. The tower was supported by the four pillars of the crossing. “It + +[Illustration: FIG. 1010.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. Monument of Bishop +Scougal in South-West Angle of Aisle.] + +was four storey high, and square, and had two battlements, and seems to +have been about 150 foot high.”[45] + +Bishop Leighton also built, in 1424, the north transept, or, as it was +called, St. John’s Aisle, where the beautiful sculpture of that bishop’s +effigy now lies inglorious beneath a rough brick arch (Fig. 1012). His +tomb appears to have been entire when Orme (who died about 1725) wrote +his description of the cathedral.[46] He describes it as an effigy _in +pontificalibus_, on an altar tomb with a canopy, under which is this +inscription: “_Hic jacet bone memorie Henricus de Lichtoun_,” &c. +Huddled in behind the figure there is a large stone slab with an +inscription, which can hardly be seen on account of the rubbish and ivy. + +The south transept was built by Bishop Dunbar in 1522. And so recently +as the time of Orme large portions of it, which have now disappeared, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1011.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. Part of East Pier +from Transept.] + +were standing, if, indeed, it was not almost entire at that date. Orme +speaks of the “top of this aisle” as having then been taken down for the +miserable purpose of furnishing stones for new buildings at the college; +and he also mentions large windows as then existing, all of which have +vanished. Indeed, almost nothing of this transept now remains except the +tomb of the founder, Bishop Gavin Dunbar (Fig. 1013), and an empty tomb +to the left of it, which were complete when Orme wrote. The latter +contained the effigy of a bishop, “a lion at his feet, and under his +head a pointed helmet for a cushion; arms, a lion rampant _queue +fourche_ debruised by a bend charged with three escallops.”[47] This +was probably a tomb of the end of the sixteenth century. The foliage +round the arch, modelled from seaweed, is carved with great spirit. +Dunbar’s tomb is perhaps the finest of the minor pieces of work now +remaining here. It is remarkable how it escaped destruction on various +occasions, and especially in 1693, when a gang of religious fanatics +broke his effigy in pieces, defaced the inscription, smashed the hanging +cusped tracery round + +[Illustration: FIG. 1012.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. + +Monument of Bishop Leighton.] + +the arch (apparently firing guns at it), and threw down the top of the +monument. The existing cornice, with its two rows of corbels, was +erected afterwards; and it must be allowed that it harmonises well with +the earlier work, although it has more of the spirit of domestic than of +ecclesiastical architecture. A similar kind of battlement is introduced +over the centre panel of the Amond Monument, at Ellon, in the same +county (see + +[Illustration: FIG. 1013.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. Tomb of Bishop Dunbar +in South Transept.] + +Fig. 1014), erected just about the time that this monument was repaired. +In the spandrils of the arch of the bishop’s tomb are the royal arms of +Scotland and those of Dunbar (three cushions pendant at the corners in a +bordure). The label terminals near the head and feet of the effigy are +designed as angels bearing shields. Orme states that, in 1640, under the +direction of the Earl of Seaforth and others, “A mason struck out + +[Illustration: FIG. 1014.--Monument at Ellon, Aberdeenshire.] + +Christ’s arms in hewn work, on each end of Bishop Dunbar’s tomb,” “and +likewise chesel’d out the name of Jesus” from another part of the +building.[48] Both of the above tombs are of freestone. + +A very interesting monument, also in freestone, is built into the south +wall of the nave (Fig. 1015). It is in bas relief, the depth of the +recess above the effigy being only two inches from the projection of the +arch moulding, yet within this slight recess the sculptor has obtained +a wonderful effect in the beautiful figure, supposed to represent +Archdeacon Barbour, the poet, who died in 1396. If this is Barbour’s +monument, it must have been erected a considerable time after his death, +as the nave was not built till after that event. There is a long +inscription beneath the monument, which, so far as we know, has never +been decyphered. The length of the recess in which the figure lies is 3 +feet 11½ inches. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1015.--St. Machar’s Cathedral. Monument in South +Wall of Nave.] + +The whole breadth of the monument is 4 feet 4 inches, and the height, +including the inscription and base course (exclusive of the lower +inscription), to the top of the horizontal cornice is 2 feet 6 inches. +It stands at a height of 6 feet 6 inches from the floor to the bed of +the figure. + +At the west end of the south aisle is the monument (see Fig. 1010) of +Bishop Patrick Scougal, who, as his epitaph says, “enriched the +Cathedral of St. Machar,” and other places in Aberdeen, “with +considerable tokens of his great bounty.” The monument was erected in +1685, the year of his death. + + + + +TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH, EDINBURGH. + + +This church stood in the hollow between the Old and New Towns of +Edinburgh, on the west side of Leith Wynd. It was founded by Mary of +Gueldres, Queen of James II., shortly after that king’s death in 1460, +the charter of erection being dated 1462. The edifice was dedicated to +the “honour and praise of the Holy Trinity, to the ever blessed and +glorious Virgin Mary, to Saint Ninian the Confessor, and to all the +saints and elect people of God.”[49] + +The foundation was established for a provost, eight prebendaries, and +two clerks, and in 1502 there were added a dean and sub-dean. Lands and +benefices sufficient were bestowed on the establishment for its +maintenance. + +Connected with the college was “Trinity Hospital,” also founded by Queen +Mary of Gueldres. After the Reformation the endowments passed into the +hands of the Town Council, who maintained the Hospital as a city charity +for decayed burgesses and their families. + +The church became the place of worship of a new parochial division +called “Trinity College Parish,” and so continued till 1848, when it was +removed to make way for the station of the North British Railway +Company. + +Trinity College Church was a very fine specimen of the Scottish Gothic +architecture of the fifteenth century. It showed (as has been pointed +out in the Introduction) that much of the middle pointed or decorated +style continued to be used in this country long after it had been given +up in England. This view is supported by Richman, who says of this +church: “The interior is a very beautiful decorated composition, with +the capitals of the piers enriched with foliage, not exceeded in design +or execution in any English cathedral”; and he also adds, “This building +is all of good decorated character, and deserving of minute examination +and study.” During the erection of the church “the master of works” was +John Halkerston, who, in recent books, is frequently referred to as the +architect; but, as has been pointed out elsewhere,[50] he seems to have +acted as paymaster, not as designer. + +The church (Fig. 1016)[51] consisted of a choir, with north and south +aisles, and a five-sided eastern apse, north and south transepts, with +the commencement of a tower over the crossing, and a north sacristy. +The nave was never erected, the arch leading to the west from the +transept being built up, and having a circular window inserted therein. +It is supposed that the progress of the structure was arrested by the +death of the foundress, which occurred in 1463. The choir, including the +apse, was 69 feet in length by 25 feet in width internally. The north +and south aisles extended along the three bays of the choir, the north +aisle + +[Illustration: FIG. 1016.--Trinity College Church. Plan.] + +being 13 feet wide and the south aisle 9 feet wide. The apse was the +full width and height of the central choir, and had a lofty window in +each of its three central divisions. The transepts had small +projections; the whole internal length of the transept, including the +crossing, being 74 feet and the width 24 feet. + +The choir and aisles were roofed with fine groined vaulting. That of the +side aisles was simple, but the vault of the choir was ornamented with +ridge ribs and several intermediate ribs, or tiercerons, springing from +vaulting shafts, supported on corbels and provided with carved caps, and +all the vaults were studded with carved bosses. The effect of the +vaulting of the apse was specially beautiful. Each bay of the choir had +clustered piers (Fig. 1017), with finely carved capitals. Above these +was a string course, then a piece of plain wall in the space usually +occupied by the triforium, and the whole was crowned with the traceried +clerestory + +[Illustration: FIG. 1017.--Trinity College Church. + +Piers of Choir.] + +windows. A good general view of the interior, taken a short time before +its destruction, is given by Billings.[52] + +Owing to the removal of the building, it has been impossible to make +original illustrations for this work, but we are fortunate in being able +to publish copies of a series of sketches made by the late James +Drummond, R.S.A., in 1845. These picturesque sketches give a good idea +of the nature of the structure, both internally and externally. Fig. +1018 is a view of the exterior of the south side of the choir, showing +the three bays into which the aisle was divided by buttresses, from +which flying arches extended to the upper part of the choir. The +buttresses had simple set-offs, and were crowned with pinnacles, which, +for the most part, seem to have been greatly decayed. In the depth of +the buttresses next the south transept a porch was formed, which was +roofed with fine groined vaulting. This porch is also well shown in Fig. +1018. The arch is moulded, and dies against the buttresses, and is +crowned with a reversed curve and a flowered finial. There were +carefully carved canopies and corbels for statues on the face of the +buttresses on each side of the porch, and the other buttresses seem to +have had similar niches. A round-headed doorway in the porch gave access +to the choir, and had a square-headed window over it. + +The aisle windows had double splayed jambs and arches (Fig. 1019) both +in the exterior and interior of the wall openings, but the original +tracery had been broken, and its place was supplied with one upright +mullion in the centre and a transome (Fig. 1020). This sketch also shows +the south end of the south transept, which preserved its four mullions, +of varied thickness, and its tracery. The latter is of a kind not +uncommon in late Scottish churches. + +Fig. 1021 shows the exterior of the north transept, and the north side +of the choir and the sacristy. The north end wall of the transept +corresponds + +[Illustration: FIG. 1018.--Trinity College Church. South Side of +Choir.] + +with that of the south transept--the great window having double splays +on the outer ingoing, and tracery, mullions, and transome similar to +those of the south window. The angle buttresses and pinnacles, and +parapet with corbel course, enriched with rosettes and gargoyles, all +correspond at both ends of the transepts. + +The upper part of the north side of the choir is also seen in this +sketch. It had a plain parapet with bold gargoyles, and in each bay + +[Illustration: FIG. 1019.--Trinity College Church. + +Window Jamb.] + +a moulded window in which the original tracery was preserved. This +showed a central mullion with quatrefoil in the arch-head, and the +smaller arches foiled or cusped. The buttress at the sacristy was well +preserved. The pinnacle was apparently original and of good design. On +the front of the buttress a small additional pinnacle was introduced, +which would give considerable character to the design. Fig. 1018 shows +that the same arrangement was evidently adopted in the corresponding +buttress on the south side. The arches of the flying buttresses are also +visible in the sketches of both sides of the church. The roof of the +north aisle seems to have been covered with stone slabs.[53] + +A building 17 feet in length by 16 feet in width internally projected +from the north wall. It is sometimes called the chapter house, but was +more likely the sacristy. It had a round-headed doorway opening into the +north aisle (Fig. 1022), a good window to the east, and a smaller +square-headed window to the west. There are two ambries in the west and +north walls, a fireplace in the north wall, and a squint window in the +south-east angle commanding a view of the high altar. At the north-east +angle there was a buttress with a pinnacle, and at the north-west angle +(see Fig. 1021) an octagonal projection, which, doubtless, contained a +wheel stair to an upper floor, the window of which is seen in the +sketch. The roof was covered with stone slabs, and a chimney with +battlement ornament crowned the north gable. The fireplace of the +sacristy is said to have comprised a fine specimen of a Gothic chimney. + +Fig. 1023 shows the interior of the south transept. The transept had no +aisles or chapels. The main arches of the crossing spring from clustered +responds against the walls with carved caps, and the groined vaulting of +the transept--which was similar to that of the choir--with its numerous +moulded ribs enriched with bosses, is seen springing from wall shafts +and corbels. The south window, with its mullions and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1020.--Trinity College Church. South Porch and South +Transept.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1021.--Trinity College Church. North Transept and +North Side of Choir.] + +tracery, is also well shown. A small circular window, with eight bold +cusps, was inserted within the western wall arch. + +Fig. 1024 is taken from the parapet walk of the south transept, and +shows the upper part of the south side of the choir, the top of the +stair turret, and the angle pinnacle of the transept. Of the choir there +are + +[Illustration: FIG. 1022.--Trinity College Church. North Aisle.] + +visible the parapet, with enriched corbel course, and the bold gargoyles +and pinnacles of the east end buttresses. The south clerestory windows +had lost their tracery, and a plain mullion and transome had been +substituted. The cape house of the stair turret is plain, but +picturesque, and the pinnacle of the angle buttress is of good, though +late, design. Those of the apse are evidently similar. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1023.--Trinity College Church. South Transept.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1024.--Trinity College Church. Choir, from Parapet +of South Transept.] + +Fig. 1025 shows a view from the parapet of the choir looking south +across the south transept. We here see the construction of the parapet +and its corbel course, and an example of one of the gargoyles carved in +the form of an animal. The monkey was a favourite subject of the carvers +in this church, and it as well as other figures were used in great +profusion. The cape house and angle pinnacle are also again visible. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1025.--Trinity College Church. Looking South from +Parapet of Choir.] + +To the right is the roof of the south transept, terminated with a +foliated cross. A small ridge ornament of stone may also be observed on +the top of the stone ridge of the roof. + +In Fig. 1022 a small credence table or piscina is visible, which is +illustrated on a larger scale in Fig. 1026. Fig. 1027 is a piscina which +was probably in the choir. The carving has apparently been of a good +style, but late. Fig. 1022 further shows that there was a doorway at +the east end of the north aisle, which appears to have nearly blocked up +the traceried window, the head of which is visible above. The Plan shows +that there was a similar doorway at the east end of the south aisle. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1026.--Trinity College Church. + +Credence Table in North Aisle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1027.--Trinity College Church. Piscina.] + +Fig. 1028 shows the interior of the south aisle looking westwards. These +sketches in the north and south aisles show that the central aisle was +shut off from the side aisles by solid partitions at the time the +sketches were made. + +In Figs. 1029 and 1030 are shown a great variety of the picturesque +carvings with which the corbels, caps, &c. were enriched. These +sculptures are all of a very grotesque and some of a debased character, +and point to the late style of much of the work. + +In Fig. 1031 is preserved a view of part of the exterior of the apse and +of some old-fashioned structures adjoining. Although the building of +Trinity Hospital is removed, the charity still exists and adds to the +comfort of a number of old men and women. + +When the church was demolished, a careful search was made to discover +the remains of the royal foundress; and a skeleton, in an +antique-shaped leaden coffin, was found in the apse, near the place +where the high altar must have stood. This was probably the remains of +the queen dowager.[54] + +A very interesting memorial of Trinity College Church has been preserved +in a painting, which is believed to have been the altar-piece. It is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1028.--Trinity College Church. South Aisle, looking +West.] + +a Diptych, painted on both sides, and contains portraits of King James +III. and his queen, Margaret of Denmark. It was executed in 1484, and +has + +[Illustration: FIG. 1029.--Trinity College Church. Carved Corbels, &c.] + +been restored to this country from Hampton Court by the gracious +permission of Her Majesty, and is now exhibited in the Picture Gallery +of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1030.--Trinity College Church. Corbels, Gargoyles, +&c.] + +Holyrood House. Dr. Laing has endeavoured to prove its original purpose +by identifying the portraits of Edward Bonkill, the queen’s confessor, +and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1031.--Trinity College Church. Hospital and Part of +Apse, from North-East. + +(From a Drawing by William Douglas, 1845.)] + +probably that of Mary of Gueldres herself, in the character of an angel +seated at the organ of the church, which forms the reverse of one of the +panels.[55] + + + + +THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST, PERTH. + + +The ancient City of Perth, one of the favourite residences of the kings +of Scotland, formerly possessed, as might be expected, many well endowed +religious establishments. The principal of these was the Dominican or +Blackfriars’ Monastery, founded by Alexander II. in 1231. The buildings +were extensive, and formed the residence of the Scottish kings when in +the Fair City. It was here that James I. was staying at the time of his +assassination. The Carmelites or Whitefriars had also a convent close to +Perth, founded in the reign of Alexander III. The Charter House or +Carthusian Monastery in Perth was the only house of that order in +Scotland. It was founded by James I. and his queen in 1429. The +Franciscans’ or Greyfriars’ Monastery was founded by Lord Oliphant in +1460. There were also numerous nunneries and chapels, some of very +ancient date; but all these religious establishments have now entirely +disappeared, the only ancient ecclesiastical structure still remaining +(and it has been greatly changed) being the Parish Church of St. John +the Baptist, from which the city derived the title of “St. John’s +Town.” This edifice still serves its original purpose of the parish +church of the town, but it has in modern times been divided by walls so +as to form three places of worship. + +So far as we have been able to discover, no complete history of this +church has ever been written, and the circumstances connected with its +original erection and subsequent reconstruction do not appear to have +been definitely ascertained and described. It is certain that a church +existed here in the twelfth century, and it is obvious, from an +inspection of the structure, that not a single stone of that early +building remains to enable its size and appearance to be determined. All +knowledge in regard to the existing fabric must, therefore, be derived +from the internal evidence of the building itself, with such slight aid +as can be got from written records. The following are some scattered +notices of St. John’s Church gathered from various sources. + +The earliest mention of the church occurs in the _Registrum de +Dunfermelyn_[56] under the years 1124-1127, when it was granted by David +I., with its property and tithes, to the Abbey of Dunfermline. + +Between the years 1189 and 1199 William the Lion granted a charter to +Henry Bald of “that land which is in the front of the street, which +leads from the Church of St. John Baptist to the Castle of Perth, on the +east side opposite to the house of Andrew, the son of Simon.” The same +Henry Bald granted, about the year 1225, to the Abbey of Scone “these +two booths which are in the front of the street which leads from the +Church of St. John Baptist towards the Castle of Perth, on the east side +opposite to the house of Andrew, the son of Simon; those two booths, to +wit, which are towards the north.”[57] + +The Church of St. John the Baptist was consecrated by David de Bernham, +Bishop of St. Andrews, in 1242.[58] In Hay’s _Sacra Scotia_ (p. 323) it +is stated that the heart of Alexander III. was buried in the Church of +St. John. + +In course of time the abbots of Dunfermline allowed the building to +become ruinous, and endeavoured to lay on the citizens of Perth the +burden of upholding the fabric. It is probable that early in the +thirteenth century the Dominican Monastery was built in Perth, and about +the middle of the century the Carmelite or Whitefriars’ Monastery was +erected, and the interests of the citizens may thereby have been +diverted somewhat from the parish church. It was perhaps in connection +with the repairs required at the time that Robert the Bruce, in 1328, +granted that stones might be taken from the quarries of Kyncarachi and +Balcormac, belonging to the Abbey of Scone, “for the edification of the +Church of Perth.”[59] + +In 1335 King Edward III. was in Perth and slew his brother, John of +Eltham, Earl of Cornwall, before the high altar of the Church of St. +John, for his excesses and ravages in the western districts of Scotland. + +In 1379 the tomb of Robert II. was brought from Leith to Perth, and +temporarily deposited in St. John’s Church before being taken to the +Abbey of Scone and set up in it.[60] + +In 1393-4, after the holding of a Parliament at Scone, Walter Trail, +Bishop of St. Andrews, performed divine service in St. John’s +Church.[61] + +From 1401 till 1553-6 there is a continuous record[62] of the founding +of altars in the parish church, and of endowments to already existing +altars. In one of these, founded in 1402, it is stipulated that if the +stipend of the chaplain of St. James the Apostle should exceed a certain +sum, the excess of the endowment meant for that altar should be applied +by the Provost and Town Council “for the maintenance and reparation of +the windows and ornaments of the parish church.” + +The chapel in which St. James’s altar was situated stood on the south +side of the church, and having fallen into a state of ruin, it had been +rebuilt about the year 1400, chiefly with the assistance which the +magistrates received from William Whitson, a wealthy burgess of Perth. + +By a notarial instrument made in 1410, containing certain obligations +and confirmations, Euphame, Countess of Stratherne, “gave her bodily +oath on the gospels to observe the same. Done in the Parish Church of +the Burgh of Perth on St. Martin’s altar.”[63] + +The foundation charter of the altar of St. John the Evangelist, founded +in 1448 by Sir John de Bute, states that the altar was situated “in the +new choir of the Parish Church.” + +The accounts of the Lord High Treasurer contain a payment under the year +1489--“To the Kirk werk of Pertht, xviijs.”[64] And again in +1496--“Item, the xij day of March, in Sanct Johnstoun, giffin to the +kirk werk on the bred (altar) xjs. vjd.”[65] Along with other offerings +at this time in St. John’s there occurs the following--“Item, that samyn +day giffin to Walter Merlioune, masoune, for his fee quhill Witsonday +nixt tocum, quhilk is the Mertymes fee bipast, xxlib.” + +This church has the unenviable notoriety of having been the centre +whence issued, in 1559, the unruly mob who in a short time demolished +the splendid monasteries and other numerous religious houses of Perth +and the neighbourhood, and whose example was only too readily followed +by other communities throughout the whole country. Such was the effect +of a sermon preached here by John Knox. The fabric of St. John’s was +spared after being purged of all monuments of idolatry. Nothing was left +but the bare walls and roofs, which were retained for use as the Parish +Church. Before the end of the century, the building was fitted up with +galleries, and in course of time it was divided into three separate +places of worship by thick walls, which still exist. + +In 1585 the kirk-session declared the church to be in a “ruinous, +pitiful, and lamentable state,” and the minister was requested to preach +a sermon and obtain a collection for the repair of the fabric,[66] but +apparently not till 1598 did “the town begin to repair the new kirk in +wallis and wandows.”[67] The next item in the _Chronicle_ regarding St. +John’s shows that the existing lead-covered spire on the central tower +is of a considerable age, for in March 1607, “Thair rais ane great +extaordinarire winde, that blew the lead of the steipill, to Mr John +Malcolme’s back yett.”[68] This was evidently a formidable mishap, as +ten years elapsed before the session, in 1617, “appointed David Sibbald +to be master of work to the reparation of the decayed parts of the +steeple, and to recieve furth of an chest, containing the Hospital’s +writts, the sum of £20 (Scots), left over the last collection lifted for +reparation of the kirk, and help to repair the said seeple with.”[69] + +As already mentioned, nothing now remains of the church of the twelfth +century, referred to in the earlier of the above notes, no part of the +present structure being older than the beginning of the fifteenth +century. The rebuilding of the Chapel of St. James in 1400 is spoken of +above, but that chapel no longer exists. In 1448 the east end of the +church is referred to as the “New Choir,” and we shall see as we proceed +that the other portions of the edifice are of still more recent origin. + +The church (Fig. 1032)[70] consists of a choir and nave, with north and +south aisles, and a north and south transept without aisles. The total +length of the main building within the walls is about 191 feet by about +58 feet 9 inches wide. The nave and choir are of almost equal length. +The transept measures about 91 feet in length from north to south, by +about 23 feet 6 inches in width. There was a chapel on the west side of +the north transept, which no longer exists, but the wide arch of the +opening into it is partly visible in the transept. A view of this chapel +is given in the _Memorabilia of Perth_, of which Fig. 1033 is a copy. It +is represented as a lean-to of two stories in height, adjoining the +north transept, the upper story being evidently reached by a stair in +the erection on the west side. + +It will be remembered that, in 1448, the east end of the church is +referred to as the “New Choir,” and it is quite evident from its style + +[Illustration: FIG. 1032.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Plan.] + +that the choir and crossing beneath the central tower are of about that +period. The transepts may be later, and, judging from the details of the +wide arch which exists in the west wall of the north transept, that arch + +[Illustration: FIG. 1033.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from +North-west, from the _Memorabilia_.] + +must undoubtedly be later, one of the arch-jambs being patched on to the +great pillar of the tower. The north gable of this transept was rebuilt +in 1823. + +The south transept is probably of the same period as the north +transept. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1034.--St John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from the +south.] + +A view of the church dated 1775, given in the _Chronicle of Perth_,[71] +and of which Fig. 1034 is a copy, shows the south side of the whole +church, and the transept is drawn very much as it still remains. Another +view of the south transept, made in 1765, and published in the papers +referring to the Blackfriars’ Monastery (where it is by mistake called +the “north” front), shows the south transept nearly the same as the +above. + +A curious row of corbels is partly seen in the interior, projecting +through the plaster along the top of the east wall of this transept. +They were probably meant for supporting the upright pieces of timber +which secured the feet of the rafters. + +The two eastern bays of the main arcade of the choir are more +elaborately moulded than the others, and round the eastmost pillar on +the south side there is finely cut the following inscription (Fig. +1035), which is carved on a band running round the shafts of the pier, +as shown in Fig. 1036:-- + +[Illustration: FIG. 1035.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on +East Pillar of Choir. + +Iohan̄es: fullar: et: uxor: ejus: mariota: foullar.] + +It will be observed that the husband and wife mentioned in the +inscription have the same name, with a slightly different spelling. The +two shields + +[Illustration: FIG. 1036.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on +East Pillar of Choir.] + +contain the same charges--viz., a key with a mullet--while on one are +also carved the last letters of the lady’s first name. + +It has been recently pointed out by the Rev. John Ferguson, of +Aberdalgie,[72] Perthshire, that John Fullar was one of the bailies of +Perth, and that his name occurs as a witness in more than one of the +charters belonging to the Charter House, Perth, of the year 1441. His +identity is placed beyond doubt by the fact that the charges on the seal +attached to the charter are the same as those on the two shields on the +pillar, viz., a key in pale and a spur in fess. Mr Ferguson further +states:--“We know from the _Registrum de Dunfermline_ that an +arrangement was made between the monastery and the magistrates of Perth, +by which the latter received + +[Illustration: FIG. 1037.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. + +Piscina in Choir.] + +the tithes of Perth for six years, subject to paying the vicar and a +certain sum to the monastery, along with the fees for the right of +burial in the choir, for the purpose of building ‘Chorum, et vestibulum +ecclesie parochiale dicti burgi de Perth, prout eis placencius et +honestius videatur, ac eadem postquam fuerint edificata perpetuis +temporibus sustentabunt in omnibus et singulis reparacionibus choro et +vestibulo pertinentibus tectura,’ &c. This agreement was made in 1440, +the year before John Fullar was made a bailie. It is possible that the +tithes and fees did not suffice for the execution of the work laid upon +the magistrates, and that John Fullar and his wife volunteered to pay +for a part, certainly for the pillar on which their names are +inscribed.” From this it is evident, as Mr. Ferguson remarks, that the +work of renewing the building was to be begun after 1440. It is somewhat +singular that the above two persons, who were evidently great +benefactors to this church, should have been so completely forgotten +that their good work at St. John’s required to be rediscovered and +brought to notice again here. + +In the second bay of the choir from the east, on the north side (at B on +Plan), there is a round arched doorway, now built up. It led to the +sacristy or revestry, as it was sometimes called. After the Reformation +the sacristy was used for meetings of the kirk-session, but it was taken +down about the beginning of this century, and the meetings were + +[Illustration: FIG. 1038.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. North Side of +Choir.] + +afterwards held in the building, shown in Fig. 1034, on the south side +of the nave near the west end, which has also since been in its turn +removed. + +The existing north and south doorways in the choir are modern, although +the south one is in the position of the old doorway, as the print from +the _Chronicle_ shows (see Fig. 1034). + +The four piscinas marked A on Plan and shown by Fig. 1037 all resemble +each other. + +The choir (Fig. 1038) has no triforium, but good plain masonry instead, +undivided by wall shafts. The clerestory windows are small and round +arched, and are divided into two lights by a central mullion, and have + +[Illustration: FIG. 1039.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. + +Section of Pier of Choir.] + +plain tracery in the arch-head. The whole details of the choir are very +simple and refined for their period, and contrast favourably with most +of our late Scottish churches. The section (Fig. 1039) shows that the +pillars are simply and beautifully moulded. They are surmounted with +good caps, and rest on plain bases (Fig. 1040). The mouldings of the +arches (Fig. 1041) are distinctly marked, and rest well on the caps +above the shafts or mouldings of the pillars. Some of these details +resemble first pointed work, especially the section of the piers which +is almost identical with that of the choir piers of St. Andrews +Cathedral, from which it is probably copied. The details of the crossing +(Fig. 1042) are simple and effective, even as seen under the very +unfavourable circumstances that a partition wall blocks up the east +arch, and that there are galleries beneath the others. There is a west +gallery, but it is omitted in the sketch. The massive piers, with their +rounded shafts and very broad fillets, have a striking effect. The +groining is of the usual kind found in this position in Scotland. It +will be observed that in the ridge ribs, holes for bell ropes are most +carefully wrought through the ribs, which are strengthened at those +parts. The holes are not all equidistant from the centre. On the two +great western piers of the crossing there are projecting corbels to +carry the beams on which the rood was placed. Strong iron hooks are +fixed in the tower arch above, which were doubtless used for the support +of the rood, or to steady it. + +Of the rood itself, as a matter of course, nothing remains. The +south-west pier is built hollow to contain the stair to the tower. Since +the Plan (Fig. 1032) was made the original doorway to this stair has +been discovered, as shown in the view. The door shown on the Plan has +been cut out at some later time. + +As already stated, the nave is almost of the same length as the choir + +[Illustration: FIG. 1040.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Cap and Base +of Choir Pier.] + +(being only about 12 inches less), but each of the arches of the arcade +is of rather smaller span than those of the choir, owing to the internal +projecting responds at the west end, which may be regarded as fulfilling +the purpose of buttresses, and also to the enlargement of the two great +piers on the west side of the crossing. Like the choir, the nave is +divided into five bays. It has no triforium nor clerestory, but owing to +the comparative lowness of the arcade arches (see Fig. 1042), while the +ridge of the roof throughout is kept at about the same level as in the +choir, there is a deep blank wall above the arcade arches. This wall is +of rough masonry compared to that in the choir, and the whole of this +part of the church is of a much coarser and ruder description, +betokening a later age. The capitals of the piers are of the very rudest +kind, and are a perfect contrast to the delicate work of the choir. In +the meagre descriptions of St. John’s to be found in the books on Perth, +this rudeness is pointed to as a sign of great antiquity, but the +reverse is unquestionably the case. This nave is undoubtedly “the New +Kirk of Perth” referred to in the _Chronicle_, in which “ane Synodall +assemblie” was held in April 1606. + +It will be seen from the views (Figs. 1043 and 1044) that the top of the +wall over the piers of the nave just shows itself and no more on the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1041. + +St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. + +Section of Arch Mouldings in Choir and Nave.] + +outside, rising above the lean-to roof of the aisles. It has been +contemplated, early in this century, to raise this wall and erect a +clerestory, and two of the windows adjoining the tower on the north side +(see Fig. 1043) have actually been built as part of a pretentious +design, with massive buttresses surmounted by high finials, but the work +has never been carried further, and indeed could not be carried further +to the west, as there is no proper support for such massive building. +Below the new clerestory (but not shown on the Plan) a new wall has been +brought up to support it. + +Fig. 1044 shows a peculiarity in the west wall, which seems to indicate +that there has been some change of design here, the gable being thinned +above the western doorway. There is a tradition that the church extended +further west at one time, and it seems not improbable that a western +tower in the centre of the front may have been contemplated and even +begun. This tower, like those at Stirling, Linlithgow, and Dundee, may +have been intended to open towards the church, with a wide arch, of +which the jambs still remain; but this idea having been abandoned, and +any part of the tower which then had been built having been taken down, +the present makeshift gable was put up instead to fill up the gap, +which, in these circumstances, would be left for the supposed opening +into the church. + +There is a large porch on the north side of the nave (see Fig. 1043), +called Halkerston’s Tower, the structure having been at one time much +higher than it is now. It was a two storied building, the upper story +having evidently been of great height and vaulted, as well as the lower +one (see Fig. 1033). Two-storied porches are met with at Aberdeen +Cathedral and Linlithgow Church, but they are not so rich in +architectural + +[Illustration: FIG. 1042.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Crossing, +looking South.] + +adornment as this one seems to have been. This sketch is copied from a +drawing in the _Memorabilia_, a book seldom to be seen, so that this + +[Illustration: FIG. 1043.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from +North-West showing New Clerestory, &c.] + +view is not well known. The circular part of the stair which formerly +led to the upper floor, and now leads to a gallery over the north aisle, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1044.--St. John the Baptist’s. Perth. View, showing +West End, &c.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1045.--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Lower Story of +Halkerston’s Tower.] + +was finished with a conical spirelet like the corresponding feature at +Linlithgow, and the top of it is seen in the view. The lower part of the +tower, which forms the porch, is very effectively vaulted (Fig. 1045). +The round arched doorway leading from the porch to the church partakes +of the rudeness already referred to as characteristic of the whole +western part of the church. A curious coincidence between a part of this +church and of the Cathedrals of Dunblane and Dunkeld, all in the county +of Perth, may be referred to. The north-west window of the nave aisle in +the three buildings is treated in very much the same way in each +edifice, and these windows have all a very decided resemblance to each +other, and are quite unlike the other windows in their respective +structures. They are all three light windows, and have square heads at +Perth and Dunkeld, while at Dunblane the head is practically square, +having a very flat segmental arch. The south aisle wall of the nave +(Fig. 1046) is a curious medley (which we hope will not be restored). +The round arched doorway near the east end is, we presume, original; but +it is not easy to tell the new work from the old, as the mouldings of +all windows and doors on the outside have received a great amount of +patching with cement and paint, owing to the crumbling nature of the +stone. + +The erection of the west end of the church is clearly referable to about +the time (1489) when, according to the _Lord High Treasurer’s Accounts_ +(already cited) small payments were made “to the kirk werk of Pertht.” +It will be remembered that on the same day the payments were made to +Walter Merlioune, the mason, and the conjunction of the two payments +suggests the idea that Merlioune was the builder of the church. We have +already partly traced his career[73] and found that in all probability +he built the palace in Stirling Castle. The resemblance between the +fretted work over the panels containing statues at Stirling Castle and +that over the upper window in Halkerston’s Tower is certainly very +remarkable. There is also a resemblance in this feature of Halkerston’s +Tower to the large fretted panel over the outside of the east entrance +to Linlithgow Palace. At Linlithgow the panel is filled with heraldic +emblems, while at Perth it appears to have been intended to fill it with +statues, as indications of brackets for supporting them are shown in +three rows. There was a John Halkerston, “master of the work” to Mary of +Gueldres at the building of Trinity College Church, Edinburgh, between +1461 and 1469. It is quite possible that he may in some way have been +connected with the erection of the nave of St. John’s, and so his name +became attached to this tower as it was to a steep wynd in Edinburgh. +However this may be, all the details of the western part of this church +obviously belong to a late period, corresponding with above date. + +The central tower (see Fig. 1046), which is about 31 feet square, could +only have been built after the adjoining part of the nave was reared. +It is a very simple structure, with one window in each face. The +parapet and corbelling were renewed about forty years ago, following in +the main + +[Illustration: FIG. 1046..--St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. The Nave, +from South-West.] + +the old details, which were, however, much obliterated. A good deal of +the stone facing was renewed at the same time. + +The exterior of the church has been considerably altered and _improved_ +at various times. An open parapet has been carried along the top of the +walls of the choir over the clerestory windows, and also along the walls +of the aisles and up the sloping gables of the east end. Dormer windows +to light the presbyterian galleries break in on this parapet on the +aisle walls, and windows for the same purpose, constructed of wood, are +seen on the roofs of the nave (see Fig. 1046). These dormer windows are +all shown on the print in the _Chronicle of Perth_ (see Fig. 1034), but +not the parapets. This print shows a large and very elaborate porch, +with a round arched doorway of many orders richly ornamented, as +occupying the eastmost bay of the choir. This was originally the gateway +or porch of the Carthusian Monastery of Perth, which, after the +demolition of the abbey in 1559, was set up in this position, where it +remained till about the end of the eighteenth century, “when it was +demolished by an edict of the Magistrates.”[74] + +The effect of the interior of St. John’s is greatly marred by the cross +partitions already referred to. This is much to be regretted, as the +interior is exceedingly interesting, and, being in a comparatively fair +state of preservation, exhibits more of its original features than the +exterior does. When the church was complete, the effect of the gloomy +nave, with its lofty unpierced wall above the main arcade, and the noble +centre crossing, with the light refined choir beyond, must have been +very striking and grand. + +A peculiarity of the church and another resemblance to the nave of +Dunblane and the north nave aisle of Dunkeld is the absence of vaulting +in the aisles which many of our Scottish churches have. The aisles in +St. John’s never were vaulted, the only parts so constructed being the +crossing and the north porch; the latter, it will be remembered, having +also an upper vaulted story. This want of vaulting is a great defect of +the church. + + + + +DUNDEE CHURCH TOWER. + + +The earliest notice in history of Dundee occurs in the first charter of +Lindores Abbey, executed before 1198, in which the Church of Dundee is +bestowed on the abbey. The church then existing is stated to have been +erected by Earl David of Huntingdon, as a thankoffering for his escape +from a great tempest. The Church of Dundee thus belonged to the Abbey of +Lindores, which stood on the opposite side of the Frith of Tay, and a +little further up the river. + +In the time of Abbot James of Rossy (1442), an agreement was entered +into between the abbot and the Provost and Burgesses of Dundee, by which +the latter took on themselves the construction and maintenance + +[Illustration: FIG. 1047.--Dundee Church Tower. View from North-West.] + +of the choir of the Parish Church of Dundee.[75] The only portion of the +ancient parish church which now remains is the western tower (Fig. +1047). Although this structure had no immediate connection with the +choir, it has evidently, as its style shows, been erected about the +middle of the fifteenth century, probably about the time when the choir +was built by the Provost and Burgesses in terms of the above agreement. + +Three parish churches in connection with the tower were gradually +developed from the original chapel. They comprised a large cruciform + +[Illustration: FIG. 1048.--Dundee Church Tower. Plan.] + +structure, the various portions of which were called St. Mary’s, or the +East Church; St. Paul’s, or the South Church; and St. Clement’s, or the +West Church. The structure was greatly damaged by the English before the +Union, and St. Clement’s had suffered so much that it required to be +rebuilt in 1789. The three churches were almost totally destroyed by +fire in 1841, and in consequence the choir and transepts were thereafter +rebuilt, St. Mary’s still occupying the choir, St. Paul’s the transept, +and St. Clement’s the nave. + +The ancient tower has escaped these various destructions and +restorations, and is now the only representative of the church erected +in the fifteenth century. It is a large and massive structure, measuring +about 40 feet square over the walls (Fig. 1048), which are about 8 feet +thick. Its total height is about 165 feet. The tower forms a prominent +object in all views of the town. It contains in the lower stage the +western + +[Illustration: FIG. 1049.--Dundee Church Tower. West Doorway.] + +doorway to St. Clement’s Church, or the nave (Fig. 1049), consisting of +two round arched doorways, 8 feet 11 inches high, comprised within a +larger circular or elliptical arch, which again is enclosed by a square +moulding. The arch mouldings are enriched with foliage. The jambs and +central pillar are moulded (Fig. 1050) with alternate rounds and +hollows. The carved capitals have a continuous abacus, enriched either +with rosettes or flowing foliage. In the spandril over the centre shaft +there is a circular panel, enclosing the Virgin and Child; and below, on +a shield, are the arms of the Diocese of Brechin. “The late Bishop +Forbes blazoned them _Argent_, three piles in point gules; but Dr. +Woodward thinks they should be _Or_, three piles in point gules.”[76] +This doorway, as well as much else about the tower, was greatly restored +by Sir Gilbert Scott, and probably only certain of the carvings are +genuine. One of these, which has not been touched, represents, on the +ingoing of the northern capital, a boar eating acorns from a branch. It +is quite in the spirit of such scenes as occur on the ancient sculptured +stones which are so abundant in the neighbourhood of Dundee. The base is +peculiar (see Fig. 1050). It projects but little beyond the outer member +of the jamb, and the face is upright; but considerable effect is +obtained by the curved terminations of the various members. Above the +doorway rises a lofty traceried + +[Illustration: FIG. 1050.--Dundee Church Tower. Details of West +Doorway.] + +window (Fig. 1051) divided, in the late Scottish mode, by a large +central mullion having two arched branches which form two principal +openings, each filled with late tracery of the ordinary kind. Above this +window the tower is vaulted. In connection with this vaulting and what +appears to have been an apartment below it there are some peculiarities. +The floor of the tower is about 12 inches lower than the ground at the +entrance, and the height from the floor to the groined ceiling is about +47 feet. It will be observed from the Plan and Fig. 1051 that at each of +the four corners there is a large circular shaft, measuring about 13¼ +inches diameter. Each individual shaft is fitted into its position in a +manner different from the others. These differences are not of a slight +or accidental kind, but appear to have been purposely made, there not +having been any “restoration” on this part of the building. At the inner +or eastern shafts (Fig. 1052) the walls are considerably bevelled +towards + +[Illustration: FIG. 1051.--Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking +West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1052.--Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking +East.] + +the opening into the nave, and form parts of the piers of the great +archway from the tower into the church. This opening, which is now +blocked up, was about 17 feet 10 inches wide, and was arched beneath the +vaulting (see Fig. 1052). The tall angle shafts have bases and caps, the +mouldings of the latter being continued along the bevelled walls. + +The vaulting ribs do not spring directly from the four angle shafts, as +there appears to have been an intermediate floor of timber (or a gallery +along the sides), which rested on the angle shafts and on large corbels +visible in the side walls. Over each of the main shafts there rises, for +about three feet or so, a group of very delicate shafting, having carved +caps, from which spring the ribs of the groining. These delicate shafts +are quite a contrast to the massive lower shafts, and, at first sight, +suggest the idea of a great change having been effected in the vaulting +at some later period. The mouldings above the small upper shafts are +carried along the west wall and ingoing of the large window (see Fig. +1051). There is a considerable resemblance between the treatment here +and that at the large west window in Paisley Abbey. There are stone +benches round three sides of the tower. + +Over the large west window there is another window (see Fig. 1047), with +round arch-head, entirely filled with tracery, composed of small cusped +circles, and above it a two-light pointed window. The tracery in the +first of these windows recalls that in the tower windows of Iona +Cathedral. + +The tower is divided into two principal stages by an enriched parapet +and outside passage, which surround it above the last mentioned window, +at a height to the walk of about 96 feet. The parapet is pierced with +quatrefoils and ornamented with crocketed pinnacles. The lower stage of +the tower has boldly projected buttresses, which are just carried as +high as is necessary for resisting the pressure of the vaulting, and +each is crowned with a crocketed pinnacle, having a small flying +buttress attached. Above these buttresses the tower is carried up with +square angles, like most of the Scottish towers of the period. The upper +stage has the wall set back, so as to allow of the passage round, and is +divided into two stories. The lower story is the belfry and has triple +pointed and cusped openings in the various sides, except the north side, +where, owing to the space occupied by the staircase, there are only two +openings. There is a bead on the angles of this story. The upper story +appears to project slightly over the lower story, and contains two +pointed and cusped windows over the solids, between the windows beneath +them. The north side has only one such window. The tower is crowned with +a cornice and an elaborate pierced parapet, having corbelled pinnacles +at intervals, the ornamental upper parts of which are unfortunately +wanting. The ornamentation of the parapet strongly resembles that of the +tower of St. Giles’, Edinburgh. The roof of the tower is of the +saddle-back kind, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1053.--Dundee Church Tower. View from North-East.] + +having gables towards the east and west, a form of roof with which +ancient Scottish towers were often crowned. + +Although the tower is thus finished, a careful examination shows that it +was undoubtedly meant to have an open crown termination, but for what +reason the idea was abandoned we cannot tell. The preparations exist for +the springing of the angle arches. When the tower lately underwent +renovation, it was proposed to remove the present cape house and put up +a crown; and a design for this was prepared, and is engraved in Lamb’s +_Book of Old Dundee_. Very fortunately the design was not carried out. + +Attached to the north-east angle is a boldly projected stair turret, +which ascends from the foundation to the summit. Figs. 1047 and 1053 +illustrate this feature. The pierced parapet at the top returns round +it, and the turret is finished with a pointed roof. A great many +loopholes in the turret show the number of the winding spirals of the +staircase. In the view (Fig. 1053) there is seen on the east side of the +tower a plain, square-headed window, having four brackets arranged +around it. We presume these were for supporting figures. Beneath them, +and near the ridge of the church roof, there is a panel with a coat of +arms, which is too far off to be made out. + +This tower is undoubtedly the boldest and most striking edifice of its +kind and date in Scotland. + + + + +GLENLUCE ABBEY, WIGTONSHIRE. + + +This abbey, like so many others, stands in a fertile holm or flat ground +in the quiet valley of the Water of Luce, about one mile and a half from +the town of Glenluce. Although sometimes called _Vallis Lucis_, the name +is probably the same as Luss in Dumbartonshire, meaning a place of +herbs. The abbey was founded in 1190 by Roland, Lord of Galloway, and +colonised by Cistercians from Melrose. + +The buildings were at one time “extensive and magnificent,” but the +ruins are now very scanty. Of the church (Fig. 1054) there remain only +parts of the south wall of the choir and the south wall of the south +transept. The cloister enclosure is still marked by a good wall, but of +the conventual buildings which formerly surrounded it, only the chapter +house and some vaulted cellars on the east side survive. + +The existing ruins cover about an acre of ground, but formerly the +enclosure of the garden and orchard extended to twelve Scotch acres. + +Little is known of the annals of the monastery. Its earliest charter is +by Robert I., granting the property of the abbey to be held as a free +barony, and this was confirmed by David II. At the Reformation the lands +were leased at a low rate to the Earl of Cassilis, who was created + +[Illustration: FIG. 1054.--Glenluce Abbey. Plan.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1055.--Glenluce Abbey. Chapter House.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1056.--Glenluce Abbey. View from South-East.] + +bailie of the abbey. In 1587 the estates were annexed to the Crown. +James VI. erected them into a temporal barony in favour of Laurence +Gordon, commendator at the time. The lordship of Glenluce afterwards +passed to the Stair family, and the lands to the Hays of Park.[77] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1057.--Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: +Exterior.] + +In this remote region the buildings remained long undisturbed, and as +late as 1646 the abbey is referred to in the Records of the Presbytery +of Stranraer as having received little injury.[78] “The steeple,” says +Symson, who wrote in 1684, “and part of the walls of the church, +together with the chapter house, the walls of the cloyster, the +gatehouse with the walls of the large precincts, are for the most part +yet standing.” + +So far as can now be ascertained from the ruins, the church (see Fig. +1054) seems to have comprised a nave with aisles about 90 feet in +length, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1058.--Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: +Interior.] + +now entirely destroyed; a transept, of which part of the southern arm +with its eastern aisle or chapels remains; and an aisleless choir, of +which only a fragment of the south wall survives. From Symson’s +statement, above quoted, there was also a steeple, but whether over the +crossing or not does not now appear. To the south of the nave lay the +cloisters, the walls of which (partly old and partly reconstructed) now +subsist, and enclose a space measuring 89 feet from north to south by 86 +feet from east to west. The north, west, and south sides are enclosed +with a stone wall, and on the east side there is a row of structures +comprising the chapter house in the centre, a ruined heap on the north +side of the chapter house, and two cellars with plain barrel vaults on +the south side. + +The chapter house (Fig. 1055) is the only portion of the abbey in good +preservation. It consists of an apartment about 24 feet square, with a +central pillar, from which spring the ribs of the groined vaulting. At +the side walls the ribs rest on corbels. The apartment is lighted with +two traceried windows (Fig. 1056), the tracery of which has been renewed +within recent years, after the pattern of the old tracery. The door +enters from the cloister on the west. It is of semicircular form (Fig. +1057), and exhibits in its capitals some peculiar and striking +sculpture. The leaves of the foliage are large and the design is +remarkable, some of the leaves, which are probably intended to represent +sun flowers, having very much the appearance of starfish. The interior +of the chapter house doorway (Fig. 1058) has also some peculiar +sculpture, and the manner in which the ribs of the vaults descend on the +round arch-head is well managed. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1059.--Glenluce Abbey. + +Corbel in Chapter House.] + +The stone benches which surrounded the chapter house, including the +abbot’s chair between the two windows (see Fig. 1055), are much +destroyed, but the central pillar and the vaulting are well preserved. +The capital of the pillar is carved with foliage of a late character, +and the corbels supporting the ribs of the vaults at the wall show +similar work. One of these corbels is quaintly carved, in imitation of a +figure clothed in the costume of the fifteenth or sixteenth centuries +(Fig. 1059), thus giving an indication of the date of the building. From +this and the work on the doorway above referred to, as well as the +character of the work generally, we have no hesitation in fixing the +date of this part of the abbey about the end of the fifteenth century. +The bosses of the vaults are carved with various devices, one of them +bearing a lion rampant, which is probably meant to represent the arms of +the founder, the Lord of Galloway. + +The design of the tracery in the windows (see Fig. 1056) is good for the +period. It is remarkably like that of the chapter house at Crosraguel +Abbey, which was also fifteenth century work. + +This sketch likewise shows the small portions of the church which still +remain. The lofty south gable of the transept is visible with the +sloping water table of the roof of the building, which stood on the +south of it. This building has apparently been at least two stories in +height. It no doubt extended over the chapter house wing, and contained +the dormitory, &c. (as at Crosraguel). A small lancet window on each +side of the water table near its apex and another small window over it +seem to indicate that there was an apartment in the roof of the +transept. The wall seen in the distance is part of the south wall of the +choir. It contains the water table of the roof of the east aisle of the +transept, and is broken off at the jamb of a high window, which lighted +the choir or presbytery, thus showing that the latter must have extended +further eastward than the existing ruin. + + + + +TORPHICHEN CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. + + +This church, from the circumstance of its castle-like appearance and its +possessing a complete dwelling-house over the transepts, was included in +_The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. II. p. +131, in which a full description of it is given, illustrated with +numerous drawings. The building is here introduced with the view of more +fully explaining some features formerly omitted, and also to form a +complete record of such an important example. + +The new features introduced in the Plan (Fig. 1060) are the choir, the +nave, and an outbuilding to the north. The width and height of the choir +and the arch leading into it are clearly seen against the central tower +(Fig. 1061), while the lower part of the east wall and part of the north +wall of the choir are still standing, as shown in the Plan, although +reduced to only a few feet in height. + +The present parish church (Fig. 1062) occupies the site of the nave, the +ancient splayed base being utilised in the north wall, where it is +visible along the whole length. It is also probable that the west end of +the present church corresponds with the position of the old west end. In +that case the dimensions were as follow, viz.:--The choir was about 63 +feet 6 inches long by 25 feet 6 inches wide, and the nave was about 65 +feet 6 inches long by 25 feet wide. The total length of the church was +158 feet 3 inches outside measure. The total length of the transept was +about 68 feet. There was apparently an aisle along the south side of the +nave, the beginning of the wall of which is visible on the Plan. A row +of buildings existed as a continuation northwards of the north transept, +and at a distance of about 31 yards northwards a portion of these +buildings still remains, measuring about 40 feet in length. The first +erection to the north of the transept had a window with stone seats +looking into the church, and it had also a communication with the house +over the church. There may thus have been a row of dormitories on the +upper floor extending northwards. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1060.--Torphichen Church. Plan.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1061.--Torphichen Church. View from South-East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1062.--Torphichen Church. View from South-West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1063.--Torphichen Church. Transept, looking South.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1064.--Torphichen Church. Recess for Monument in +North Transept.] + +Fig. 1063 is a general view of the transept looking towards the south, +and shows the recess for a tomb under the south window. Fig. 1064 is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1065.--Torphichen Church. Doorway at North-West +Angle of Transept.] + +an enlarged view of this tomb recess; the centre stone of the ogee arch +has dropped slightly, owing to a failure in the walls at the south-east +corner. The piscina alongside has a neatly constructed square basin. + +Fig. 1065 shows the outside of an angular headed doorway near the +north-west corner of the transept. The doorway with the projecting hood, +seen alongside, leads into the staircase giving access to the house. + +Measured drawings of these two last subjects were given in the account +already referred to. + + + + +ST. ANTHONY’S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH. + + +This edifice occupies a very picturesque situation on the summit of a +crag in the bosom of Arthur’s Seat, not far above the base of the hill. +Immediately to the north and west of the walls the ground descends in an +abrupt and precipitous manner, and to the south the surface, which +gradually rises, is rough and rocky (Fig. 1066); while on the east a +huge wall of rock towers high above the building, completely hemming it +in on that side. + +Only the north wall of the chapel and the returns of the west and east +walls remain, together with the foundations of the south wall, enough, +however, to enable it to be determined fairly well what the completed +building was like. In the drawings (Fig. 1067) the indications existing +are completed and restored, so as to give a better idea of what the +structure was like than can be done by description alone. The present +condition of the edifice is shown in the ground Plan, section from east +to west and north elevation (Fig. 1068), and in the general view from +south-east (Fig. 1069). The building measures on the outside 43 feet in +length by 18 feet 3 inches in width, but the internal dimensions of the +chapel proper (see Plan) are only 32 feet 9 inches by 12 feet. + +The chapel (see Fig. 1068) was divided into three bays by a vaulted and +groined ceiling, portions of the ribs of which, with their corbel +supports, still exist in the north wall. The height of the vaulting at +the wall is about 14 feet. + +There was a window in the central and eastern bay of the north wall, and +a doorway in the west bay, and, according to Maitland,[79] the same +arrangement existed on the south side. There is a locker in the usual +place at the east end of the north wall. Maitland further says that in +the “southern wall near the altar is a small arched niche, wherein was +put the holy water.” This, however, does not now exist. There was a +priest’s house over the western bay, the size of which can still be +determined by the existing return of its east wall, as seen in the north +elevation, and the longitudinal section. Part of the building, at the +west end, on the ground floor, was screened off from the chapel by a +partition wall, of which the indications exist. On the ground floor this +was vaulted, as shown by + +[Illustration: FIG. 1066.--St. Anthony’s Chapel. Plan of Site.] + +section at tower, and contained a locker. Within this space at the +south-west corner there was, doubtless, a wheel stair, which by the +first revolution led to an entresol over the arched space just referred +to. This entresol was probably a garderobe, and was lighted by a small +window, shown on the Plans and Section. The stair, continuing upwards, +would land at the first floor over the chapel, which consisted of a room +about 15 feet by 13 feet, lighted by a north window. Adjoining this +window a portion of the north wall is thinned by about 15 inches at the +floor level so as to form a recess, which contains a window. Over this +the wall is carried at its usual thickness by a half arch, as shown by +the longitudinal section. Probably this recess was screened off from the +room to form a small closet. There was a fireplace in the west gable; +part of its flue still remains, with one of its corbels for supporting +the lintel and chimney breast. In the restored drawing (see Fig. 1067) +it is supposed that there was an upper room. Assuming that the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1067.--St. Anthony’s Chapel. Suggested Restoration.] + +first floor room was 10 feet high in the ceiling--and it is not likely +to have been higher--the height of the existing wall at the north-west +corner warrants this assumption, as above the 10 feet level it rises 3 +feet more in its present broken down condition. That it rose to a higher +level than it does now is almost certain, in which case an upper room +would be obtained, as shown by section at tower (see Fig. 1067). This +corresponds with Maitland, who says that the tower was perhaps upwards +of 40 feet in height. The second floor room would, of course, be reached +by a continuation of the stair. At the staircase landing a small outside +bartizan is introduced in the restored drawing, such as is frequently +found in the pele towers. This arrangement of the two upper rooms is +similar to what is found in the church of the Carmelite Friars at South +Queensferry and at Torphichen, both of the same period as St. Anthony’s. +There is also, but on a more elaborate scale, something of the same +arrangement at Stobhall in Perthshire, already illustrated.[80] + +To the south and west of the chapel there are remains of walls, and +particularly of what is called the hermitage (see Fig. 1066); but these +are very fragmentary, and so intermixed with the natural rock, which +crops up everywhere, that not much can be made out in connection with +them. + +Of the origin of the chapel nothing appears to be known, and almost the +same may be said of its history. One of the earliest notices of it--if +not the earliest--occurs in the _Treasurer’s Accounts_ of 1473, as +follows--“Item, vj^{to} Februarij, to offir in Sanct Antonis in the +crag, to the King, xijs.” In the same accounts it is again referred to +in 1491 and 1496--“Item, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1068.--St. Anthony’s Chapel. Plans, Section, and +North Elevation of Existing Structure.] + +at he laid down for the King, on Sanct Anthonis day in Sanct Anthonis +chapel, besid Edinburgh, to the Kings offerand ixs.” Again in 1498, the +King (James IV.) made an offering in “Sanct Anthonis of the crag of xjs. +viijd.” + +An exhaustive review of the present condition of the chapel and +hermitage, and an account of the various references to them by different +writers, has been prepared by Mr. Fred. R. Coles.[81] Mr Coles gives +reproductions of various old views, with notes on all the earlier known +drawings, as also observations on St. Anthony and churches dedicated to +him, and for further information on this subject we beg to refer readers +to this valuable paper. + +Grose states that hermitages were frequently erected on the sea coast, +and at dangerous places, and that the patron or tutelary saint of these +hermitages was St. Anthony the hermit, and suggests that the situation +of St. Anthony’s on the crag which stands conspicuous from the Firth of +Forth + +[Illustration: FIG. 1069.--St. Anthony’s Chapel. View from South-East.] + +was perhaps chosen with the intention of attracting the notice of seamen +coming up the Firth, who, in cases of danger, might be induced to make +vows to its tutelar saint. There is a fine spring of clear water close +to the site, which may have led to the establishment of the hermitage +there. The building contains almost no features by which its date can be +ascertained, but it is here classed along with the buildings of the +third period, to some of which it bears in certain respects an analogy. + + + + +THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ROSSLYN, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +The village of Rosslyn is picturesquely situated on the high north bank +of the river North Esk, about seven miles south from Edinburgh; and the +ancient castle of the St. Clairs[82] stands on an isolated promontory +called the College Hill, which, adjoining the village of Rosslyn, juts +out + +[Illustration: FIG. 1070.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Plan.] + +into the deep valley of the Esk. The celebrated Church of Rosslyn, +erected by the proprietors of the castle, stands on the brow of the +steep bank of the river above the castle, and commands a splendid view +of the valley. The church, so far as erected, is in perfect +preservation, and is a charming portion of an incomplete design. It is, +in some respects, the most remarkable piece of architecture in Scotland; +and had the church been finished in the same spirit as that in which it +has been so far carried out, it would have gone far to have realised a +poet’s dream in stone. When looked at from a strictly architectural +point of view, the design may be considered faulty in many respects, +much of the detail being extremely rude and debased, while as regards +construction many of the principles wrought out during the development +of Gothic architecture are ignored. But notwithstanding these faults, +the profusion of design so abundantly shown everywhere, and the +exuberant fancy of the architect, strike the visitor who sees Rosslyn +for the first time with an astonishment which no familiarity ever +effaces. + +The principal authority regarding the history of the church and the +family of the St. Clairs of Rosslyn is Father Richard Augustin Hay, +prior of St. Pieremont, whose mother, by a second marriage, became wife +of Sir James St. Clair of Rosslyn. About the year 1700, Father Hay made +copious extracts from the family documents, which have been since lost, +and these extracts, together with his comments, have been published +under the title of the _Genealogie of the Sainteclaires of Rosslyn, +including the chartulary of Rosslyn_. + +The edifice was erected by Sir William St. Clair, third Earl of Orkney, +who succeeded to the estates about 1417. About thirty years afterwards +he founded the Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Certain letters which occur +on shields along the cornice of the north wall have been ingeniously +deciphered by Dr. Thomas Dickson, of the Register House, Edinburgh, as +the initial letters of the following words,[83] viz.:--WILZAME · LORDE · +SINCLARE · FUNDIT · YIS · COLLEGE · YE · ZEIR · OF · GOD · MJJJJL. The +structure appears, however, to have been begun a few years earlier, +about 1446, as in the year 1447 the continuator of the _Scotichronicon_ +says, “Dominus Willelmus de Sancto Claro Comes Orcadiæ _est in +fabricando sumptuosam structuram apud Roslyn_;”[84] and probably the +foregoing inscription refers to some ceremonial event connected with the +building. Sir William died in 1484, and he appears to have left the +building very much in the condition in which we now find it. In that +case its erection would be the labour of about forty years. + +The church was a collegiate foundation, for a provost, six prebendaries, +and two singing boys or choristers, and was dedicated to St. Matthew. It +consists (Fig. 1070) of a choir with north and south aisles, connected + +[Illustration: FIG. 1071.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. View from +South-East.] + +by an aisle which runs across the east end, and gives access to a series +of four chapels beyond it to the east. The dimensions of the building +are as follow, viz.:--interior--length of choir, 48 feet 4 inches; width +of central aisle, 17 feet 10½ inches; width over aisles, 35 feet; total +exterior length, 69 feet 8 inches; height to the apex of the roof, 41 +feet 9 inches. The original intention was to have completed the building +as a cross church, with choir, nave, and transepts, but the choir only +has been completed. The transepts have been partly erected, the east +wall being carried up to a considerable height, but the nave has not +been erected. The length across the transepts, as founded, is about 72 +feet. Mr Thomson, the custodier of the chapel, who saw the west walls of +the transept exposed, states that the transepts were intended to be 18 +feet wide, as drawn on Plan. The Rev. Mr. Thompson, Rosslyn, in his +guide to the chapel, says that the foundations for the entire building +had been laid, and that those of the nave, which extended to about 91 +feet to the west, were dug up and exposed at the beginning of the +present century. This exactly corresponds with the length which the +nature of the ground would permit. + +The choir, both internally and externally, is remarkably symmetrical, +the bays being all of the same dimensions, with only slight differences +in the carving, which do not affect the general design. Thus (Fig. 1071) +all the buttresses rise unbroken by set-offs to the wall head of the +aisles, where the cornice continues round them, and they have all on the +face canopies of the same size and style. Above the cornice on the ten +buttresses on the north and south sides of the choir there rise on each +two massive pinnacles, connected by a small flying buttress between them +(Fig. 1072). The outer pinnacles, which are flush with the face of the +buttresses, are square on Plan, and are decorated according to two +alternate patterns (Fig. 1073), viz., canopied niches in the one, and +large rosettes set in hollows in the other. The inner pinnacles (Fig. +1074), which rest on the thickness of the wall, are all practically +alike. They are oblong on Plan, and are so placed as to offer most +resistance to the flying buttresses, which are thrown across the aisles +and rest upon them. The pinnacles are ornamented with rosettes on the +angles, and crockets on the sloping top. The back of these pinnacles and +the lower parts, where not seen from below, are left plain, without any +ornament. The flying arches abutting against the pinnacles are carved +with a revived Norman-like chevron. + +The pinnacles (Fig. 1075) on the buttresses of the east chapels are +naturally somewhat different, as they have no thrusts from flying +buttresses to counteract. There is only one pinnacle on each of these +buttresses, and although they are all of different design, their effect +corresponds with that of the outer pinnacles of the aisles of the choir. +The back of these pinnacles is left unfinished (Fig. 1076), like those +at the sides, but the portions visible are very elaborately carved. + +The windows of the aisles (see Fig. 1072) are all of two lights, and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1072.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. North +Doorway and Buttresses, &c.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1073.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. South Side +of Choir, looking East.] + +have the same mouldings and orders of decoration both in the inside and +outside of the wall, each jamb having two beaded shafts with carved +caps. These beads are continued round the arches, and a large hollow + +[Illustration: FIG. 1074.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Pinnacles +on Buttresses, from Roof of Aisle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1075.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Pinnacles +at East End.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1076.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Pinnacles +over East Chapels, from Roof of Aisle.] + +moulding connects them, which in the arches is always filled with +carving. In the jambs there are two different patterns in the alternate +windows, the one being a simple niche with canopy and bracket for a +figure, and the other the same, but with a moulded block instead of the +figure. There is very little variety in the tracery. The windows on each +side correspond with those on the opposite side. In the eastern chapels +four of the windows have the engrailed cross of the St. Clairs wrought +into the tracery. + +The clerestory windows (see Fig. 1072) are all after one design, the +shafts, mouldings, and arches on the outside being repeated in the +interior (Fig. 1078). These are similar to those of the aisle windows +just described. Their decoration consists of large rosettes, occurring +at regular intervals in the hollow moulding between the shafts of the +jambs. All the clerestory windows are single lights. The tracery of the +large window in the east end (Fig. 1077) is modern. Its design is +probably founded on ancient remains, but whether or not it accords well +with the rest of the building. + +The north and south doorways, which are opposite each other, are +recessed in quasi porches (see Figs. 1072 and 1073), formed by round +arches thrown between the buttresses, and the minor differences of the +doorways are shown in the sketches. The upper part of a window appears +over each, as in the south doorway of Glasgow Cathedral. The aisle roofs +being flat, there is no triforium or blind story, and the clerestory +windows are carried down to the string course over the main arches (see +Fig. 1078). + +Turning now to the interior, it will be observed that the main piers are +composed of a series of round mouldings, separated by slight square +fillets, and that the corresponding wall shafts or responds (Fig. 1079) +are of trefoil form, with good caps and carved bases, which rest on the +side bench. The arch mouldings of the main arcade (see Fig. 1078) are +shallow, with regularly recurring orders of decoration, each arch having +an enriched hood moulding. The upper part of the wall slightly overhangs +on a bold carved and moulded string course. The wall space between the +clerestory windows is ornamented with two canopies and massive brackets +placed one over the other. + +The choir roof, which consists of a pointed barrel vault (see Fig. +1080), is divided by strengthening ribs into compartments corresponding +with the bays, and each compartment is decorated differently (see Fig. +1078). The dividing ribs are moulded, and have large projecting cusps in +the form of fleurs-de-lys, &c., on the soffit. The compartments of the +roof are entirely “powdered with stars” or rosettes, set square or +diagonally. The construction of the aisle roofs is peculiar, although +something similar is frequent in castles, as will be afterwards alluded +to. A regularly constructed straight arch with proper radiating joints, +concealed behind upright joints, spans each aisle (see Fig. 1079) from +pillar to wall shaft. These horizontal arches or lintels have flat +relieving arches over them, which in some instances are visible. The +aisles are roofed with a series of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1077.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. East End of +Choir, above Roof of Aisles.] + +pointed barrel vaults thrown between the above straight arches, and +running at right angles to the axis of the building (Fig. 1081). This is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1078.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Interior of +Choir, looking East.] + +one of the most unusual features of construction in the edifice. The +straight arches or lintels, as they may be called, are all most +profusely + +[Illustration: FIG. 1079.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Interior of +West End of North Aisle.] + +carved with foliage or figure carving (Fig. 1082), the amount of +decoration on each being, as usual, of corresponding artistic value. + +On the arched roofs of the north and south aisles, to the east of the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1080.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Transverse +Section.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1081.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. East Aisle +and ’Prentice Pillar.] + +doorways and of the east aisle, there is carved in each bay an engrailed +cross, the one limb running along the crown of each arch, and the other +downwards from this on each side. But in the north and south aisles, in +the three bays west from the doorways, the engrailed band is only +continued along the crown of the arch, the other limb being omitted, +which may possibly be meant to distinguish the more sacred part of the +edifice. + +The eastern chapels are the only part of the building in which there is +groined vaulting. The compartments are oblong, and have pointed cross +arches (Fig. 1083), the diagonals meeting at the apex. Elaborately +carved pendants, about 4 feet long, occupy the place of the usual boss; +while at the springing of the arches, against the east wall, great +projecting horns, resting on curved corbellings or cones above the caps +of the wall shafts, radiate outwards and downwards, one horn to each +rib, so that they are in groups of three. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1082.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Details of +Carving of Straight Arches.] + +The object of these curved cones, with their projecting horns, may be +explained as follows:--It will be seen on referring to the Plan (see +Fig. 1070) that the centre line of the east chapels is not in the centre +of the space between the two eastmost buttresses, and consequently not +in line with the centre of the north and south windows between those +buttresses. In order to make the centre line of the vaulting coincide +with the centre of the windows, it was necessary to introduce some kind +of support for the foot of the east arches, at a distance of about 2 or +3 feet from the east wall. The above cones and horns were introduced for +this purpose, and from them the vaulting on the east side springs. In +connection with this arrangement, the late David Roberts, R.A., +contended that the “east wall of Rosslyn had been pulled down and set +further back, to give 3 feet more room.”[85] But this supposition finds +no warrant whatever from an examination of the building. A more likely +explanation is that the above cones may have been introduced as a kind +of imitation of the springing of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1083.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Eastern +Chapels.] + +the fan vaulting common in England in the fifteenth century. The heavy +pendants were also probably derived from the same source. + +Against the east wall of the choir were the remains of four altars, +which have been restored (see Fig. 1083), one of them being situated +over the stair leading to the lower chapel. Beside it there is a square +headed piscina, and on the south side of the other altars there are ogee +headed recesses in the wall. On the east side of the south doorway there +is a richly carved stoup. + +In the transepts (Fig. 1084) there are remains of three canopied +piscinas, two in the south transept and one in the north transept. They +bear a general resemblance in their details to the sacrament houses in +some of the churches in the north, and to the piscinas in Melrose Abbey. +Between the two in the south transept there is a recess in the wall, +showing where an altar has been intended, and a similar indication in +the north transept on the north side of the piscina shows the same +intention. Over each of these altars there are three moulded and carved +brackets, probably meant for statues. On the south side of the centre +opening into the choir there is a recess for another altar, and on the +north side there is an arched piscina; both have carved brackets above +them. A bracket in a similar position, relative to the altar and +piscina, exists at Dunglass Church. + +A singular feature of the church, which would have been more apparent +had it been finished, is that the choir is almost cut off by a solid +wall from what would have been the other divisions of the structure. +Fig. 1084 shows the wall as seen from the outside. The openings into the +side aisles are about 4 feet 3 inches wide and about 11 feet high, and +the opening on the ground level into the central aisle is about 7 feet +wide. These three openings are all covered with straight arches. Above +the central opening there is a lofty aperture like a window covered with +a pointed arch, probably meant to contain the rood. Above the caps of +the jambs of the side openings there are two carved figures (Fig. 1085), +that on the north being St. Sebastian, and that on the south St. +Christopher. + +Beyond the east end of the church and on a lower level, so as to suit +the slope of the ground (Fig. 1086), a chapel has been erected, which is +reached from the south aisle by a straight stair of twenty-five steps. +This chapel measures 36 feet in length from east to west by 14 feet +wide. It is barrel vaulted (Fig. 1087), and is lighted by one window +only, at the east end. The window is a simple pointed one, without +tracery. There are several ambries in the walls, and an eastern altar +with a piscina. There are also a fireplace and a small closet about 11 +feet square on the north side. A door leads out on the south to what has +been an open court, where there are indications of other buildings +having existed or been intended. It would thus appear that in all +probability + +[Illustration: FIG. 1084.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. West End of +Choir and East Wall of Transepts.] + +there was a residence here, and the chapel may have served both as +sacristy and private chapel. + +This chapel or sacristy is supposed to have been built in the lifetime +of Sir William St. Clair’s first wife, Lady Elizabeth or Margaret +Douglas, daughter of Archibald, fourth Earl of Douglass, and first Duke +of Touraine, from the circumstance that her arms (Fig. 1088) are +sculptured on the east wall. The shield has two coats impaled: _Dexter_, +a coat quarterly, dimidiated, viz.--First a galley within a double +tressure, flory counter + +[Illustration: FIG. 1085.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Caps of +Openings to Choir.] + +flory, for Orkney; 3rd a cross engrailed for St. Clair, being the 1st +and 3rd quarters of the arms of the Earl of Orkney; _Sinister_, in base +a heart, and on a chief three mullets, for Douglas, the shield being +surmounted of a fess charged with three fleurs-de-lys (2 and 1) for +Touraine. Lady Elizabeth died in 1452. + +The barrel vault of the sacristy (see Fig. 1087) is semicircular, and +supports a flat roof formed with overlapping stones. The vault is +strengthened with transverse ribs carved with the engrailed cross, which +spring from corbels sculptured with figures of angels and saints (Fig. +1089). + +In considering the history of Rosslyn Church many of the statements of +Father Hay regarding the St. Clairs and Rosslyn require to be received +with considerable caution. He was a hero worshipper, and Sir William was +his hero. The latter is represented by the Father as living in more than +royal magnificence at Rosslyn, with many of the nobles of Scotland +waiting upon him as servants. That is a very incredible statement, as is +also the assertion that under the fostering care of Sir William, Rosslyn +became the “chiefest town in all Lothian, except + +[Illustration: FIG. 1086.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Section +through East End of Church and Lower Chapel.] + +Edinburgh and Haddington.” But few who visit this chapel will be +inclined seriously to quarrel with the Father on account of his +enthusiasm for the Rosslyn family. To the purest in Gothic architecture +Rosslyn may seem barbarous and debased, but it must be allowed to be +splendid barbarism, meted out with the most liberal hand. Sir William is +further represented by Father Hay as bringing artificers from foreign +lands, and setting them to work on Rosslyn College, and on this +unsupported statement many writers have found the prototype of this +building abroad, some in France and some in Spain, and even Rome is +hinted at in the well known story of the ’Prentice Pillar. The unusual +richness of the ornamentation of the edifice, so different from most of +the structures + +[Illustration: FIG. 1087.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Lower +Chapel or Sacristy, looking West.] + +erected in this country at the time, has doubtless led to these attempts +to attribute the design to a foreign architect or a foreign country, +where richly decorated structures exist. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1088. + +The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Arms of Sir W. Sinclair’s First Wife.] + +But this amount of decoration, being so exceptional in Scottish +edifices, seems to have proved misleading. No parallel to Rosslyn has, +so far as we know, been discovered abroad, and it is unnecessary to go +so far afield in search of a model. The leading principles of the design +are really Scottish, and it will be found, on careful analysis, that +Rosslyn Church presents a rich and finished epitome, both as regards +constructive and decorative elements, of the Scottish ecclesiastical +architecture of the third or late pointed period. The plan of the east +end of Rosslyn Church so closely resembles that of the choir of Glasgow +Cathedral, that there is hardly room to doubt that the latter was the +model after which the former was designed. The disposition of the +pillars in the two buildings agrees exactly, the side aisles in both +being connected by an eastern + +[Illustration: FIG. 1089. + +The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Corbels in Lower Chapel.] + +aisle, which in each case has a central pillar in the east arcade, and +in each edifice a series of chapels beyond this aisle forms the east +end. The details are, as is natural, seeing that the buildings are about +two centuries apart in date, entirely different, but it is curious to +observe how in both cases even the minute parts of the design are +remarkably alike. Thus the triple niche over the central pillar of the +east arcade at Glasgow finds a counterpart in the same position at +Rosslyn (see Fig. 1078). The east wall and gable of both choirs occupy +the same relative position, rising above the eastern aisle and chapels. +Churches with an eastern aisle are not unknown in England, such as Abbey +Dore, Herefordshire, and Romsey Abbey, Hampshire; but the former has +three openings in the east end, thus showing an arch in the centre; +while Romsey Church, Glasgow Cathedral, and Rosslyn Church have the +peculiarity of having a pillar in the centre of the east arcade. + +Much has been made of the resemblance between the barrel vaults of +Rosslyn and those of the south of France, but there does not appear to +be any connection between them. The pointed barrel vault was the form +commonly practised in Scotland in the fifteenth century, both in +churches and castles. Mr Fergusson says that this kind of vault is +“foreign and unlike the usual form of vaults found in Scotland,” but the +examples given in this book show that he is mistaken. Pointed barrel +vaults are to be found in the churches at Seton, Queensferry, Ladykirk, +Whitekirk, Borthwick, Crichton, Corstorphine, Dunglass, and many others, +and numerous examples might be given from the castles. There can, +therefore, be no doubt that the masons of Scotland were at this period +quite familiar with that system of vaulting, some of which, such as the +vaults of Borthwick Castle, in the same district and built a little +earlier than Rosslyn, are of considerably larger dimensions. The pointed +barrel vaults of castle halls and churches are generally covered with +sloping stone roofs, as at Bothwell, Borthwick, &c., but at Rosslyn the +curved form of the roof has been adhered to, externally as well as +internally. The coping of the east gable has been finished to this curve +(see Fig. 1077), and there is no indication of any straight roof having +been intended. It is possible, however, that it had been originally +contemplated to cover the extrados of the choir vault, which still +remains unprotected, with an outer stone roof, in accordance with the +usual practice; but, owing to the slightness of the clerestory walls, +the outer stone roof was omitted in consequence of its great additional +weight, which, it may have been believed, would be too great for the +side walls to sustain. The roofs of the aisles and east chapels, which +are almost flat, are covered with overlapping flags. Until the building +was restored some thirty years ago, these parts of the building were +covered with a temporary slated roof, which cut off one half of the +clerestory windows. The mark of this roof is still visible in the walls. + +When we examine smaller details, we find the same methods adopted by the +Rosslyn builders as were familiar to the other builders of the country, +thus all the lintels or straight arches connecting the main pillars with +the side walls, which are such striking features at Rosslyn, are +composed of small stones, having radiating joints in the same manner as +is frequent in the lintels of the wide fireplaces in the halls of the +castles. It may also be noted that the jambs of these fireplaces often +terminate in curious moulded caps, often very clumsy, and not unlike the +caps of the responds at the east wall of Rosslyn. The plans of the +castles sometimes show a series of small parallel apartments, with +barrel vaults abutting at right angles upon a passage or wider hall, +which may have suggested the parallel barrel vaults of the aisles of +Rosslyn. But, indeed, the form of the main arcade itself suggests such +an arrangement. The carved canopies and corbels placed on the face of +the buttresses and window jambs (see Fig. 1090) are thoroughly +characteristic of the Scottish churches of this period, and when their +general design is considered, these features at Rosslyn will be found +not to differ materially from those of the churches of Melrose, +Linlithgow, Seton, Trinity College, and other buildings. Compare the +disposition of small canopied niches round some central feature, such as +the buttress niche (Fig. 778) at Melrose, and the pinnacles (see Figs. +1075 and 1076) at Rosslyn. + +On the sides of each buttress at Rosslyn (see Figs. 1072, 1073, and +1091) there is a splayed moulding, a kind of set-off which runs from the +front of the buttress back to the wall, on the top of the base string +course. A somewhat similar set-off occurs on some of the buttresses of +the chapter house of Glasgow Cathedral, built a few years before +Rosslyn. + +A large number of details from Melrose have a very decided resemblance +to those found at Rosslyn. Thus the staircase turret (Fig. 773) + +[Illustration: FIG. 1090.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Corbels on +Window Jambs and Buttresses.] + +at the west side of the south transept of Melrose is in spirit so very +like the work at Rosslyn that, had it been included in the illustrations +of the latter, only those who have local knowledge would have detected +it. The same remark applies to the south doorway from Dalkeith Church, +given further on. A striking resemblance also occurs between the +mouldings of the sacristy doors at Lincluden and Bothwell and the +details of the clerestory windows at Rosslyn. In all these examples the +mouldings consist of an outer and inner shaft, separated by a large +hollow, containing carved work; and the shafts have, in every case, caps +and bases treated in a similar manner. + +The soffit cusping so common in the arches at Rosslyn is a decoration of +the most frequent occurrence throughout Scotland; at this period, +indeed, there is hardly an arched tomb recess in the country which is +not so decorated. Carved rosettes set in hollows, which abound +everywhere at Rosslyn, are likewise the common decoration of the +period, both in churches and castles. Similar decorative enrichments are +also very common in Tudor buildings in England, as, for example, in +Henry VII.’s Chapel at Westminster, where also the small figures so +frequent at Rosslyn above the caps and on buttresses, &c., find their +counterpart, thus showing an association of ideas with English rather +than foreign work. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1091. The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Base +Mouldings and Lower String Course, with Peculiar Moulding above the +latter.] + +The doorways at Rosslyn, with the porches formed in front of them by +arches thrown between the buttresses, are paralleled by the doorways at +Glasgow Cathedral; Trinity College, Edinburgh; and St. Salvator’s, St. +Andrews. The engrailed cross which enters so largely into the decoration +of Rosslyn, being employed all along the arched roof of the aisles and +of the lower chapel, and forming the motive for the tracery of some of +the windows at the east end, is peculiarly local, being the distinctive +feature of the St. Clair arms, while the loop tracery in many of the +windows is of common occurrence in Scotland. A number of details +illustrated in Fig. 1092, being chiefly the corbels of niches, have a +very marked resemblance to the similar carvings at Trinity College, +Edinburgh. Those containing the fox preaching to the geese and the +dromedary are specially interesting. Other examples (such as Fig. 1093) +show that the character of the foliage is the same as that of many of +our Scottish churches. Much of the carving at Rosslyn has considerable +affinity with the late wood work in English churches (see Fig. 1082). + +These comparisons are probably enough to prove that Rosslyn Church was +built after the manner and style of its age and country, and only +differs from other Scottish churches of the same period in possessing a +superabundance of rich detail and carving in excess of what is usually +found.[86] + +The transepts, which project two bays to the north and south, were +obviously intended to be two stories high, and probably of the same +height as the clerestory walls of the choir. Indeed, a part of the east +wall of the north transept exists of this height. The walls of the +transept are well buttressed, as if to maintain a vault, and there are +no windows in the existing lower part of the transepts, the intention +probably being to light them with large traceried windows at each end, +as in Trinity College. + +The portions of the transepts and crossing which have been completed are +too small to enable it to be clearly determined how these parts of the +structure were intended to be carried out and vaulted. The west gable + +[Illustration: FIG. 1092.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Details of +Corbels.] + +of the choir (see Fig. 1084) is built with a curved outline on top, +which seems to indicate the form of an intended barrel vault. The gable +has been left unfinished, and the existing belfry is obviously a late +addition. The above curve, if completed, would comprise the full width +of the chapel, embracing both the centre aisle and the side aisles, and +would rise considerably above the apex of the roof. The space included +between the curves is about 36 feet wide, which is a wider span than +would likely be undertaken at this period. The curved form of the top of +the west wall of the choir may, therefore, be dismissed as an indication +of a probable vault. + +Attention has already been drawn to the usual mode of finishing the +barrel vaults of churches at this period (see _ante_, page 3), viz., by +the introduction of four solid walls (with small apertures) at the four +sides of the crossing on which the barrel vaults of the various arms of +the churches were stopped. This system has, so far as the structure is +completed, been adopted at Rosslyn, the wall on the east side of the +crossing + +[Illustration: FIG. 1093.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Details.] + +being built so as to receive the barrel vault of the choir. There seems +to be no reason why the same plan should not have been intended to be +used for the completion of the other sides of the crossing. The edifice +would then be in harmony with the other collegiate churches of the +period, and may have been intended to be completed with a central tower. + +The building shown by dotted lines at the west end is a vestry and organ +chamber erected a few years ago. + +The sculpture with which the chapel is so profusely adorned generally +represents Scriptural scenes, and has been very minutely described by +the Rev. Mr. Thompson in his _Guide to Rosslyn Chapel_. + +One of the most unique examples amongst the remarkable decorations of +the edifice is the ornamentation of the south pillar of the east aisle, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1094.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Carved Slab +over Entrance to Vault.] + +generally known as the “’Prentice Pillar” (see Fig. 1081). It consists +of a series of wreaths twisted round the shaft, each wreath curving from +base to capital round one quarter of the pillar. The ornamentation of +the wreaths corresponds in character with the other carving of the +church; and the grotesque animals on the base find a counterpart in +those of the chapter house pillar at Glasgow Cathedral. + +Beneath the choir are the vaults in which many of the St. Clairs are +buried. The entrance is under a slab on which the incised outline of a +knight in armour is carved (Fig. 1094), with a dog at his feet, and a +small shield at his head, bearing a lion rampant contourné. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1095.--The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Monument to +George, Fourth Earl of Caithness.] + +The monument to George, fourth Earl of Caithness, who died in 1582, +originally stood against the wall of the north aisle. It was removed in +1736, and placed against the wall at the west end of the north aisle +(see Fig. 1079). This monument (Fig. 1095) contains the family motto, +“Commit thy work to God,” and the arms of the St. Clairs. + + + + +THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF DUNGLASS,[87] + +HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +This deserted but very complete edifice is situated within one mile of +Cockburnspath Railway Station. It is in a good state of preservation, +and its masonry may be described as almost entire, with the exception of +the damages done to it during last century, when it was fitted up for +stabling and other farm purposes; or, as stated in the Hutton +Collection,[88] made in the eighteenth century, “It is at present +employed in a great variety of domestic uses.” The structure now stands +a neglected ruin, and is put to no purpose whatever, except that the +south transept is used as the burial-place of the family of the Halls of +Dunglass. + +The building (Fig. 1096) is cruciform, and consists of a nave 40 feet +long by 20 feet wide internally, a choir 33 feet 3 inches long by 17 +feet 9 inches wide, and north and south transepts, each 21 feet 7 inches +long by 13 feet 9 inches wide. The total internal length of the church +is 90 feet 8 inches, and the total length of the transept from north to +south + +[Illustration: FIG. 1096.--The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. Plan.] + +is 63 feet. There is a sacristy 19 feet 3 inches in length by 13 feet 7 +inches in width internally on the north side of the choir, from which it +enters by a low centred arch, pointed and splayed. + +The edifice (Fig. 1097) is roofed throughout, with the exception of the +tower over the crossing, with a continuous pointed barrel vault over +each arm of the cross, having a roof of heavy overlapping stone slabs +resting on the outside of the arch. There is thus no timber used in the +construction of the walls and roof. + +The tower has been divided, internally, into three stages, and the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1097.--The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. View from +North-West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1098.--The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. Interior +of Nave, looking Eastward.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1099.--The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. Interior +of Crossing from the Choir, looking West.] + +corbels for supporting the floor beams still remain. The lower set of +corbels are set immediately above the apex of the tower arches, one of +them being seen in the sketches of the interior of the crossing (Figs. +1098 and 1099). In the north side of the west wall of the tower (see +Fig. 1098) a door opens into the nave at a high level, which probably +was reached by wooden steps, there being no stone stair of access to the +tower chambers. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1100.--The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. Plan of +Piers of Tower.] + +It will be seen from the drawing (Fig. 1100) that the plan of the tower +piers is peculiar. The two western piers stand out from the angle of the +walls of the nave and transept, to which they are attached by a strip of +masonry, only some 9 or 10 inches thick. The tower is thus considerably +off the centre of the transept, and is much less in breadth than the +limbs of the cross. The two eastern piers project from the angle into +the choir, but not so as to diminish the width of the transept. It is +difficult to account for the extremely unusual and eccentric position of +the tower supports. Possibly the choir and tower were first built, and +when the nave and transepts were erected, it was thought desirable to +make them wider than at first intended. The piers of the crossing are +simply splayed and notched on the inner diagonal faces, and they are all +alike; but the arch faces or mouldings vary, those of the nave and +transepts corresponding with the piers, while the choir arch is moulded +on both faces with shallow mouldings. The former arches spring from +moulded caps (see section Fig. 1100) and the latter from caps carved and +moulded + +[Illustration: FIG. 1101. + +The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. + +Cap of Tower Arch, Choir.] + +(Fig. 1101). The splayed base of the piers is omitted on the chancel +side. + +The windows in the end walls of the nave, choir, and transepts are all +pointed, and were filled with tracery; but the tracery in every case is +gone, and the west wall under the window sill has been cut out to allow +of the passage of carts and horses. Below the end windows of the +transept and sacristy are sepulchral recesses, which were probably +enriched with cusping, which is now cut away. The ornamental brackets +for supporting these enrichments have label terminations of angels. One +of these, playing on a stringed instrument, is shown in Fig. 1102. The +side windows of the church have segmental sconsion arches and double +lights, with massive tracery (see Figs. 1099 and 1103). The north and +south doorways of the nave are round arched, with moulded jambs (see +Fig. 1097). The other doorways are plain, with lintels. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1102. + +The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. + +Corbel in Sacristy.] + +The sedilia in the south wall near the east end (Figs. 1103 and 1104) is +a very beautiful one, and is fairly well preserved. It contains the +usual three seats indicated by three ogee crocketed arch-heads. These +arches rest on carved capitals at each end (Fig. 1105), and the +intermediate ones on corbels supported by angels, one holding a shield, +and the other playing on a voil. The sedilia is recessed about 13 +inches, and is 6 feet 6¾ inches long (see Fig. 1103) by about 5 feet 3 +inches high from the seat to the springing of the arches. Between the +sedilia and the east wall and below the sill of the window there has +been a piscina, which has been cut away, and its position is merely +indicated against the wall, as shown in Fig. 1103. It appears to have +been supported by a shaft from the floor. Adjoining this, in the east +wall, is seen (see Fig. 1104) a projecting corbel with a shield on the +face. This was probably meant either to support a light or a figure in +connection with the altar. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1103.--The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. Sedilia +and South Window in Choir.] + +In the sacristy there are on the side walls four consecration crosses at +the points marked on the Plan. + +There is a diversity of opinion as to the name of the founder and the +date of the founding of the Church of Dunglass. According to Nisbet[89] +it was founded by “Sir Thomas Home, in the reign of Robert III.” +(1390-1406). He married Nicola or Nicolas Pepdie, who brought him the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1104.--The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. Sedilia +and South Window of Choir.] + +lordship of Dunglass, and their arms (Fig. 1106), which adjoin the north +transept window, Nisbet says are impaled, viz., the lion for Home, and +the “three birds called papingoes, relative to the name of Pepdie.” In +Keith’s _Catalogue_ and by Spottiswoode we are told that the Collegiate +Church of Dunglass was founded in the year 1450 by Sir Alexander Home of +that Ilk. Chalmers, in the _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 512, says it was +founded by Sir Alexander Home of Home in 1403. He was the son of Sir +Thomas and Nicolas Pepdie. Sir James Hall, in a letter written in 1789 +(see Hutton Collection), finds from examination, evidently of original +documents in his possession, that it was founded by Sir Alexander in +1403. Dr. Laing also adopts this date as correct.[90] Perhaps, as above +suggested, the choir and tower may have been built in 1403, while the +nave was not erected till after 1450. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1105. + +The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. + +Details of Sedilia.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1106. + +The Collegiate Church of Dunglass. + +Arms of Sir Thomas Home and his Wife in North Transept.] + +Dunglass Church is generally regarded as having been Collegiate. In the +appendix to the _Scotichronicon_, it is stated that in the reign of +James II. the buildings of Douglas (probably a mistake for Dunglass) +were in progress,[91] and in the _Originales Parochiales_, Vol. I. p. +153, the following note occurs:--“About the middle of the fifteenth +century a petition regarding the erection of the Parish Church of +Douglas (evidently mistaken for Dunglass) into a Collegiate Church was +presented to the Apostolic See, but though the Pope’s consent seems to +have been obtained, the purpose never was fulfilled.” + + + + +FOWLIS EASTER CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.[92] + + +This edifice, which is one of the best preserved and most interesting of +the minor churches of its date in Scotland, is situated about six miles +north-west from Dundee. + +The lands of Fowlis came into the possession of the family of Gray by +marriage about the year 1397, when the only daughter of the last +Mortimer of Fowlis and Aberdour married Sir Andrew Gray of Broxmouth. He +was the first Lord Gray, and was succeeded by his son Andrew, the second +Lord Gray, and it was doubtless by this Andrew Gray that the church was +built. He died in 1469, and, judging from the style and various features +of the architecture, the building seems to have been erected in his +lifetime. Spottiswoode states that it was built by Sir Andrew Gray of +Fowlis during the reign of James II. (1437-1460), and there is still + +[Illustration: FIG. 1107.--Fowlis Easter Church. Plan.] + +more conclusive evidence that the church was built by Sir Andrew. He +married Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Sir John Wemyss of Rires and +Kincaldrum, and the arms of Gray and Wemyss are carved on the skew +stones of the church. Further, in the _Old Statistical Account_ it is +stated that the “beam which supported the organ loft” bore the +inscription:--“Hoc Templum Structum fuit Anno Millesimo Centesimo +Quadragesimo Secundo ab A. Gray.” + +The church (Fig. 1107) is a simple oblong structure without buttresses +or projections of any kind. It measures about 88 feet long by 28 feet +wide outside the walls. It is built of fine ashlar in large courses of +stone, obtained from the den of Fowlis in the immediate neighbourhood. +The stone is of a bluish-grey colour, and has well stood the test of +time. There are north and south doors (Fig. 1108) nearly opposite each +other near + +[Illustration: FIG. 1108.--Fowlis Easter Church. View from South-East.] + +the west end, and a priest’s door near the east end, all round arched. +The edifice was divided into a nave and chancel by a rood screen and +loft. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1109.--Fowlis Easter Church. + +Corbels, &c., at Rood Screen.] + +The corbels for supporting the loft still exist, as shown on the Plan +and in Fig. 1109. The nave is lighted by a large four light window in +the west gable (see Fig. 1110), and one narrow lofty pointed window in +the south wall (see Fig. 1108). There are one upper and one lower window +in the south wall at the rood loft, the lower window pointed and the +other square headed, and immediately to the east, in the south wall, +another narrow and tall pointed window. Between the priest’s door and +the east gable the chancel is emphasised by a large three light +traceried window in the south wall (see Fig. 1110), and also by a slight +rise in the base, which runs all round the church. There is a small +round window in the east wall fitted with a piece of cast iron tracery, +put in about the beginning of this century. Only one window occurs in +the north wall, viz., at the rood loft, which corresponds to the lower +window on the south side, and is furnished with similar corbels at each +side, for the support of the rood loft. There is in addition a lower +corbel a few feet west from the window, which was probably the wall rest +of the upper step of the stair leading to the loft. The south-west +doorway (Fig. 1111) has a very impressive appearance. The jambs and arch +are moulded with two deep and wide hollows, having a filleted round +between, which terminates, like many late Gothic mouldings, on a splayed +base. The round arch is surmounted by a richly carved ogee shaped label, +resting at each side on figures bearing shields, and terminating with a +heraldic display at the top, where on a shield couché are carved the +arms of Lord Gray, namely, a lion rampant, within a bordure + +[Illustration: + +Window in South Wall of chancel. + +Window in West End Wall. + +FIG. 1110.--Fowlis Easter Church.] + +engrailed, above which is a helmet supported by two lions, and bearing a +swan’s head and neck, with wings elevated for crest. The carving is, +unfortunately, a good deal decayed. + +Adjoining the interior of each of the west doorways is a stoup; that on +the north side is shown in Fig. 1112. + +The ambry or sacrament house stands in the east wall on the north side +of the altar. It is one of the most elaborately carved and sculptured +examples now remaining in Scotland. The sacrament house is well shown in +the drawing by Mr. Robertson (Fig. 1113). It is 5 feet 6 inches high by +3 feet wide across the cope and base. The opening, which is checked + +[Illustration: FIG. 1111.--Fowlis Easter Church. South-West Doorway.] + +for a door, has an ogee arch with richly carved buttresses on each side. +Above the recess is sculptured a remarkable group (Fig. 1114). In the +centre is the bust of the Saviour, on a larger scale than the other +figures, holding in His left hand the globe, surmounted by a small +cross--the attribute of sovereignty. On each side is an angel--that on +the right holding the cross, and that on the left the pillar of the +scourging. Both + +[Illustration: FIG. 1112. + +Fowlis Easter Church. + +Stoup in North Wall.] + +have a nimbus, but are without wings. Above the cornice which runs along +the top of the ambry and in the hollow of the roof or cope the +Annunciation is sculptured. The Blessed Virgin stands on one side and +the angel on the other, holding the scroll with the salutation. Between +them is the pot of lilies, and behind the Virgin an open book, +symbolising the prophecies regarding her. + +Above the ambry are seen indications of broken work, as if there had +been something more sculptured above, and in the village, built into one +of the cottages, there is a series of figures (Fig. 1115), which have +clearly been taken from the church, and which possibly stood over this +ambry. These carvings are just the length required to fit the space, the +panel containing them being 3 feet 1½ inch wide. Mr. Robertson, however, +thinks that these figures formed part of a tomb, and that the broken +remains on the top of the ambry indicate the former existence of some +kind of parapet; but in any view, to bring these figures back to the +church would be a fitting conclusion to the admirable work which has +lately been carried out by the minister, the Rev. Dr. Burr, with the +assistance of Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect. + +The alterations lately effected consisted in removing a partition wall, +which, along with the rood screen, separated the east end of the +building from the part used as the Parish Church, and in removing the +plaster ceiling, which cut across the tracery of the west window, +preparatory to putting on a new open timber roof. The belfry replaces a +nondescript erection of last century. The bell (Fig. 1116), which is +old, is 14 inches high by 17¼ inches in diameter at the lip, and is +attached to the stock by three canons. The stock is of oak, and, +although bound with iron, is much rent. The bell is very heavy and of +simple but beautiful form. The letters of the inscription seem to have +been formed separately, and fitted round the mould in which the bell was +cast. + +The font (Fig. 1117) is richly sculptured, but is much mutilated. It is +octagonal in shape, and measures 3 feet high, with a round basin, 20½ +inches wide. In the panels round the basin are sculptured scenes from + +[Illustration: FIG. 1113.--Fowlis Easter Church. Sacrament House.] + +the life of Christ, which are much broken and defaced. The Baptism +occupies one space, and Christ bound with a figure on each side (Fig. +1118) + +[Illustration: FIG. 1114.--Fowlis Easter Church. Sculpture on Ambry.] + +is carved on another. The panels also contain the arms of Gray and +Wemyss, with others now obliterated. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1115.--Fowlis Easter Church. Sculpture in Village.] + +The door of the rood screen is still preserved. It is of dark oak, and +is one of the few examples of pieces of furniture of this description +remaining in Scotland (Fig. 1119). It has open work in the upper part, +occupying nearly half the height (see details in Fig. 1120) and four + +[Illustration: FIG. 1116.--Fowlis Easter Church. Bell.] + +panels below, the lower two having the linen pattern, and the two above +(forming the centre of the door) being decorated with tracery work. + +One of the most remarkable features of this church consists of four +large pre-Reformation paintings on oak panels, two being at present hung +on the east wall and two on the north + +[Illustration: FIG. 1117.--Fowlis Easter Church. + +Font.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1118.--Fowlis Easter Church. + +Carvings on Font.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1119.--Fowlis Easter Church. Half of Door of Rood +Screen.] + +wall.[93] The two on the east wall are in much the better state of +preservation. The upper picture represents our Saviour on the Cross, the +soldier on horseback on his right thrusting the spear into his side, and +numerous + +[Illustration: FIG. 1120.--Fowlis Easter Church. + +Details of Upper Part of Rood Screen.] + +other figures on both right and left. The lower consists of eleven +panels, each representing a saint, some male and some female. The tenth +panel has near the foot the Gray shield in colours. On the north wall +the upper painting has the middle part entirely rubbed off, and also, to +a considerable extent, the central part of the upper division; but what +remains shows a large head and shoulders, surrounded with a glory. +Probably this part of the picture was a representation of the Trinity. +To the right of this is a female saint with a sword piercing a king’s +head; at her feet and behind her there probably was another figure, now +wanting, to balance the two figures on the left, namely, John the +Baptist, holding the lamb in his arms, and behind him the Virgin and +Child. The lower division has in the centre a representation of the +entombment, with three figures on either side. The panels of the other +picture are not in their correct places, but they represent some figures +on horseback, and others on foot--subject uncertain. + +As already mentioned, the skew putts contain arms. These are as follow, +viz.:-- + + + S.W. Wemyss of Reres 1st and 4th lion rampant, 2nd and 3rd a bend. + + S.E. A lion rampant within a bordure engrailed for Gray, impaling + the dexter half of the foregoing arms, namely, 1st a lion rampant, + 3rd a bend. + + N.E. Scotland, lion rampant within a double tressure flory counter + flory. + + N.W. Lion rampant; for what family is uncertain. + + + + +COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ST. SALVATOR, ST. ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. + + +The College of St. Salvator was founded and endowed by Bishop Kennedy, +in 1456, for a provost and prebendaries. This bishop was distinguished +for his liberality to the Church. He also founded and endowed a +Franciscan Monastery in St. Andrews, which has now entirely disappeared. + +The Church of St. Salvator is the only portion of the college buildings +which still survives. It is now attached to the united colleges of St. +Leonard’s and St. Salvator, which form the existing University of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1121.--Collegiate Church of St. Salvator. Plan.] + +St. Andrews, and the other buildings of which are modern. The church +bears the marks of the period when it was erected, the latter half of +the fifteenth century. It consists (Fig. 1121) of a single oblong +chamber about 107 feet long and 28 feet wide internally, with a +three-sided apse at the east end. There are now no windows in the north +and west walls, but the south wall is divided by buttresses into seven +bays, with a large pointed window in each, which, together with the +three windows of the eastern apse, sufficiently light the church. The +central window of the apse is larger than the others. The tracery in the +windows is modern. The buttresses between the bays are bold and +effective (Fig. 1122), having a broad moulded base and being enriched +with canopied niches for statues on their face. The canopies on the +buttresses next the apse are placed + +[Illustration: FIG. 1122.--Collegiate Church of St. Salvator. View from +South-East.] + +facing one another on the angle of the buttress instead of on the face, +an arrangement not easily explained. The buttresses are now finished on +top with gabled pinnacles, but these are a modern restoration. The +original pinnacles were, doubtless, of the late and rather stunted +character usual at the period, of which one specimen survives, at the +north-east + +[Illustration: FIG. 1123.--Collegiate Church of St. Salvator. South-West +Porch.] + +angle of St. Salvator’s, where, however, it is little seen. Between two +of the buttresses, near the south-west corner, a porch is introduced +under the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1124.--Collegiate Church of St. Salvator. View from +South-West.] + +window (Fig. 1123), the buttresses being slightly extended beyond the +others to receive it. The porch is roofed with groined vaulting, and has +a stone bench on each side, and a canopied niche on each side of the +wide entrance arch. A shield at the apex bore the arms and mitre of +Bishop Kennedy. The doorway within the porch has a three-sided head or +arch, and the north door opposite it has a similar top. + +The tower at the south-west angle of the church is of the usual plain +unbuttressed form (Fig. 1124) common at the period in Scotland. On the +ground floor it contains the gateway to the college. Over the outer +archway are the arms of Bishop Kennedy in a cusped panel (Fig. 1125), +having a canopied niche on each side. Over this the tower rises to the +string course under the belfry story, with no features but small loops +in the wall. The belfry story has a lofty double window on each of its +four sides. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1125.--Collegiate Church of St. Salvator. + +Bishop Kennedy’s Arms in Tower.] + +These windows are pointed and cusped, and a broad cusped transome +divides them in their height. The angles of this story are splayed, and +it is finished with a new plain parapet resting on a simple corbel +course. The tower is surmounted by an octagonal spire of the stunted +kind common at this time, and with a very marked entasis. It is divided +by two string courses in the height, and has two tiers of lucarnes. + +In the interior of the north wall, close to the apse, stand the remains +of the splendid monument erected by Bishop Kennedy (Fig. 1126). It forms +in appearance the interior of an apse with five sides, elaborately +carved with minute niches and recesses, and is covered with vaulting +(now broken). This apse is spanned by a moulded and pointed arch carried +on clustered shafts. Beside these, and over the arch, there is a +succession of niches and figures, interspersed with tall much subdivided +windows. Unfortunately this monument was greatly damaged by the fall of +the roof, which occurred last century. According to tradition six +splendid silver maces were found within the tomb, one of which is +preserved in the college, and the others were distributed amongst the +other Scottish universities. But it has been shown by Mr. Alex. J. S. +Brooke, F.S.A. Scot., in a paper read before the Society of Antiquaries +of Scotland (see _Proceedings_, 1892, in which these and other Scottish +maces are fully illustrated), that this tradition is erroneous, and that +the maces of Glasgow, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1126.--Collegiate Church of St. Salvator. Monument +of Bishop Kennedy.] + +Aberdeen, and Edinburgh Universities are of different dates, and were +made expressly for these universities. The three maces belonging to St. +Andrews are:--1, The mace of the Faculty of Arts; 2, the mace of the +Faculty of Canon Law, now the Theological Faculty; and 3, the mace of +St. Salvator’s College--all of St. Andrews. No. 1 has a beautiful knop +or head of tabernacle work, in three stages. It probably dates from +early in the fifteenth century, and is of French workmanship. No. 2 is +of a somewhat similar design, but is probably of Scottish manufacture. +No. 3 is the most beautiful of the three St. Andrews maces. It bears the +arms and initials of Bishop Kennedy, and the knop is of elaborate +tabernacle work, containing allegorical and other figures. The style of +workmanship of the mace of St. Leonard’s, which is still preserved at +the College, corresponds with that of the tomb. The inscription on the +mace states that it was made in Paris, by John Maiel, in the year 1461. +It seems not improbable that the tomb was also designed in France. To +the right of the monument there is a very effectively designed sacrament +house, having the royal arms, and those of Bishop Kennedy above it. The +shield of the latter, with his mitre, is also seen to the left of the +monument. This sacrament house is somewhat earlier in date than several +others given below, and is of superior design. In this case the pyx, +supported by two angels, is carved on the corbel beneath. Shafts, with +cap and base on each side of the ambry, support a pointed arch above, +ornamented with crockets and finial. A crocketed pinnacle encloses the +composition on each side. The whole design is good and is well carried +out. + + + + +THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF DALKEITH, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +The town of Dalkeith stands between the rivers North and South Esk, +about six miles south from Edinburgh. A church dedicated to St. Nicholas +existed here from an early period. It was raised into a collegiate +church in the fifteenth century, and since the Reformation has been the +church of the parish. + +This church (Fig. 1127) consults of a nave of three bays with aisles, +and a western tower, north and south transepts, and an aisleless choir +of three bays, with an eastern apse. The western part of the church and +a portion of the choir extending as far as the south doorway (at which +point a wall has been erected across the building, as indicated by +dotted lines) are used as the Parish Church. About 1854 this church +underwent a thorough restoration. Much of the interest attached to it as +an ancient building was thus effaced, but the original plan has not been +greatly altered. The appearance of the building before the above date is +shown by Fig. 1128, which is reproduced from a drawing in the Hutton +Collection in the Advocates’ Library.[94] The steeple shown in this +view is said to have been built in 1762.[95] It resembles somewhat the +old steeple of Glasgow College,[96] and is much more likely to have been +built, as the latter was, in the seventeenth century than in the +eighteenth. The tower was probably repaired at the latter date, when, as +we are informed, the church itself was so treated. The walls of the +tower, where they have been left unrestored, and the staircase turret +adjoining are undoubtedly older than the eighteenth century. + +The eastern portion of the choir (Fig. 1129) has stood for centuries in +a roofless and ruinous condition. It has originally been vaulted, +probably with a pointed barrel vault supporting a stone roof. As much + +[Illustration: FIG. 1127.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. Plan.] + +of the vault remains (Fig. 1130) as is self-supporting, and has on the +surface and in the angles of the apse moulded ribs at intervals +springing from corbels. The east end terminates in an apse of three +bays, in each of which, and in the bays of the south wall, are windows +of three lights, filled with plain looped tracery. The windows of the +apse have been partially built up (see Fig. 1129). The apse windows are +built at the same level as the other windows, thus leaving a great +height of plain wall above them. This height of wall over the windows +was + +[Illustration: FIG. 1128.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. View from +South-East. (From a Drawing by Charles Sanderson in the Hutton +Collection in the Advocates’ Library.)] + +rendered unavoidable by the barrel vault of the interior, which required +the arches of the windows to be kept below the springing of the main +vault, as may be observed at Ladykirk, Seton Church, and elsewhere. In +the churches of Linlithgow and Stirling the central window of the apse +is larger than the others, but in those cases the vaulting is different, +and allows greater height for the windows. The parapet above the walls +of the choir is plain and rests on a string course, which has been +carved with foliage. The doorway in the south side (Fig. 1131) is round +arched, and in the freedom of the treatment of its details very much +resembles what is found in the neighbouring Church of Rosslyn. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1129.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. The +Eastern Apse.] + +The buttresses (Fig. 1132), like those of Rosslyn, are massive, and +although they have five or six stages, they do not recede at these +stages till the wall head is nearly reached, where they are finished +with a gablet beneath which a large gargoyle is projected. The +buttresses were crowned with square pinnacles, finished with crockets +and finials, only two of which now remain, in a very ruinous state. They +have been carefully wrought on the inside, so as to adjust themselves to +the sloping flanks of the stone roof, the water from which was conveyed +through the buttresses by the projecting gargoyles to the ground. There +is a canopied niche on the face of all the buttresses, as well as those +on each side of the south doorway. + +A monument in the choir (Fig. 1133) contains two recumbent figures, a +husband and wife side by side. The effigies (Fig. 1134) are not +recessed, as is frequently the case in an arched tomb in the wall, but +lie in the open church where shown on the ground Plan, and they appear +to be + +[Illustration: FIG. 1130.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. Interior +of Apse.] + +in their original position. From the heraldic coats on the monument (see +Fig. 1133) it is obvious that the knight was a Douglas, and that the +lady was of royal descent. On a lozenge at the head of the knight are +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1131.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. South +Doorway.] + +arms of Douglas of Dalkeith, viz., two stars on a chief. And on a +similar lozenge at the head of the lady are the same arms impaled with +those of Scotland (Fig. 1135). The same arms are also repeated at the +sides of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1132.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. North-East +Side of Apse.] + +the monument (see Fig. 1133), with what appear like coronets above them, +from which Mr. James Drummond[97] gives it as his opinion that the +persons represented are James, 4th Lord of Dalkeith, who was created +Earl of Morton in 1457, and his wife Johan, third daughter of King James +I. The former died about 1498. Mr. Drummond supposes the lady survived +her husband, but the Lady Johanna must have died before the year +1490.[98] The facts on which that view is founded are the presence of +the royal and Douglas arms impaled, and “the male figure being +sculptured with an earl’s coronet, to which none of the previous lords +of Dalkeith had a right, although they were allied to royalty.”[99] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1133.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. Monument +in Choir.] + +The monument is in a very dilapidated condition, the base and lower half +of the pedestal being buried in earth and rubbish, the accumulation of +centuries. The arms on the pedestal (see Fig. 1133) are the same as +those already referred to as carved at the heads of the figures. They +are repeated on the opposite side of the pedestal, but in inverse order. +The canopied work along the top of the pedestal is similar to what is +seen surmounting a fragment of royal arms at Dunfermline (see Fig. 218), +which fragment may also have been part of a tomb. + +The precise date of the founding of the Chapel of St. Nicholas does not +appear to be known, but since 1372, when Robert II. granted a licence to +James of Douglas to endow a chaplainry therein, frequent notices of it +appear.[100] + +In 1390 Sir James Douglas, first Lord of Dalkeith (already referred to), +“bequeathed, besides a cup and a missal, a sum of money for the +reparation and roofing of the Chapel of St. Nicholas at Dalkeith;” and +by another + +[Illustration: FIG. 1134.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. Effigies +on Monument in Choir.] + +deed two years later, “he assigns the residue of his goods to the fabric +and ornament of the said chapel,”[101] and for other purposes. Before +his death, in 1420, he raised the chapel to the rank of a Collegiate +Church, and is supposed to have finished the building, endowing it with +“stipends and manses for a provest and five prebendaries, as perpetual +chaplains.”[102] In 1467 St. Nicholas was disjoined from Lasswade, and +Dalkeith was made a separate parish, and in 1477 the church was enlarged +by the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1135.--The Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. + +Shield at Head of Lady.] + +addition of three canonries, endowed by the Earl of Morton. At the +Reformation, St. Nicholas’ was settled as the Presbyterian church of the +parish. + +In 1686 the minister reported the church to be ruinous, and the +Presbytery ordered it to be made wind and water tight. + +On the north side of the church there is a vault occupied as the funeral +vault of the Buccleuch family. + + + + +ST. MUNGO’S CHURCH, BORTHWICK, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +This church is situated near the well known castle of the same name in +the south-east part of the county, and about nine miles from Edinburgh. +With the exception of the south aisle or chapel, the church (Fig. 1136) +was entirely rebuilt about forty years ago.[103] To judge from what of +the old plan can now be made out, the structure has originally been a +Norman one, with aisleless nave and choir, and a circular eastern apse. +The reconstruction of the edifice included that of the apse and the +south wall of the chancel, which, although not entirely new, are yet +practically so, none of the ancient architectural features being left, +but only, at most, some of the walling. The apse is about 16 feet wide +by about 10 feet 6 inches deep, and was lighted by three narrow widely +splayed windows. The chancel was about 16 feet 6 inches long by 22 feet +wide. The south wall contained two windows, and apparently a piscina, +but all these features have disappeared, as well as the more important +arches which formed the entrance to the chancel and the apse. + +A south aisle or chapel (see Fig. 1136) has been added to the church. It +is entire and is a good example of Scottish Gothic of the latter half of +the fifteenth century, having in all probability been built about the +same time as the castle, the licence for the erection of which is dated +1430. William de Borthwick, a man of some eminence, was created Lord +Borthwick shortly before that date, and the aisle is believed to have +been erected by him. This aisle is vaulted with a pointed barrel vault, +covered on the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1136.--St. Mungo’s Church. Plan.] + +outside with a stone roof (Fig. 1137), to resist the thrusts of which +massive buttresses are provided. The roof consists of overlapping stone +flags, carefully wrought, and the cornice at the wall head (Fig. 1138) +is ornamented with carved heads and leaves alternately. The chapel +contains in the south wall a recess for a monument, and the remains of +two piscinas and a locker in the south and west walls. There is a small +pointed window in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1137.--St. Mungo’s Church. South Aisle, from +South-West.] + +the west side, and a larger one in the south end. The tracery of the +latter is probably modern, as is the west doorway. The wide arch which + +[Illustration: FIG. 1138.--St. Mungo’s Church. Cornice of Aisle.] + +formerly opened into the church has been built up. + +A stately monument (Fig. 1139), containing two recumbent figures, is +built against the east wall of the aisle. The statues are supposed to be +those of the founder of the castle and the aisle, the first Lord +Borthwick and his wife, who was a Douglas. The monument is not now in +its original position. Before the time of the rebuilding it stood in +the inside of the wall of the apse, and it was then removed and placed +in its present position, where it has apparently suffered from + +[Illustration: FIG. 1139.--St. Mungo’s Church. Monument of Lord +Borthwick and his Wife.] + +over restoration. The effigies, which are remarkably well preserved, +have been entirely coloured, and considerable traces of the colour still +remain. The length of the arched recess in which the figures lie is 7 +feet, and the depth of the recess 3 feet 8½ inches. The height to the +arched recess is about 3 feet 6½ inches, and the total height of the +monument is 10 feet 3 inches, and the width over the buttresses 8 feet +11 inches. The design is of a usual form, and the enrichments indicate a +late date in the fifteenth century. + +The Church of Borthwick was annexed by Chancellor Crichton to his newly +erected College of Crichton. After the Reformation Borthwick was united +to Heriot and Stow, and served by a reader, but in 1596 James VI. +erected it into a separate parish. In 1606 the kirk-session complained +that the church was falling into ruin for want of proper repair. +Commissioners from the Presbytery met the complainers, and after +deliberation they refused to “stent” themselves for the repair of the +church, but offered instead to sell the vestry (see Plan) “as a family +burial-place to any gentleman who would pay such a price as would enable +them to repair the choir.”[104] An offer of the building was made to Sir +James Dundas of Arniston, who ultimately purchased it, and with the +money thus raised the church appears to have been repaired in a rough +fashion. The chancel arch was built up and a gable wall erected above +it, which thus became the east end of the church, and the apse was left +outside. A gallery was then placed against the east gable. The structure +remained in this condition till 1780, when it was destroyed by fire. The +walls which survived the fire are those shown on the Plan (see Fig. +1136). The vestry (now the Dundas burial vault) and south aisle, both +having stone roofs, remain comparatively unscathed. The nave and the +north wall of the chancel have entirely disappeared. + + + + +LADYKIRK CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +This very complete and almost unaltered church stands on the high north +bank of the river Tweed, nearly opposite Norham Castle. Before the +Reformation the parish consisted of the two parishes of Upsetlington and +Horndene. In 1296 the parson of the former swore fealty to Edward I., +who, while endeavouring to arrange regarding the succession to the crown +of Scotland, adjourned the Scottish Parliament from Brigham in England +to an open field in Upsetlington. The existing church is said to have +been built in 1500, and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin by James IV., in +gratitude for his delivery from being drowned by a sudden flood of the +river Tweed. + +The structure (Fig. 1140) is a specially characteristic example of the +Scottish church architecture of the period. It is a triapsidal cross +church, without aisles, having an apsidal termination at the east end of +the chancel and at the north and south ends of the transept. The body +of the church and the transepts are covered with pointed barrel vaults, +with ribs at intervals, springing from small corbels (Fig. 1141); and +the whole is roofed with overlapping stone flags (Fig. 1142). The nave +and chancel are 94 feet 6 inches in length by 23 feet 3 inches in width +internally, and the transepts, which are very short, each measures 12 +feet in depth from north to south by 19 feet in width. The side windows +are of considerable width, but being entirely below the springing of the +vault, they are low compared with the height of the church. The side +walls rise greatly above the windows on the exterior, and have a heavy +appearance, while the lofty vaults of the interior render the building +dark. The arches + +[Illustration: FIG. 1140.--Ladykirk Church. Plan.] + +which open from the main church into the transepts (see Fig. 1141) are +also kept below the springing of the main vault, and are therefore low, +but the windows in the transepts are kept well up. To resist the +pressure of the heavy vaults and roof the walls are well buttressed, and +the buttresses terminate with the somewhat stunted pinnacles in vogue at +the time. It will be noticed that the overlapping stone roofs are +constructed in three distinct portions, viz., one roof extending over +the whole of the nave and chancel, and two separate roofs over each +transept. The roofs and vaults of each of the transepts terminate +against a gable raised on the side walls of the main part of the church, +and the transepts are entered by low arches, on which these gables +rest. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1141.--Ladykirk Church. Interior, looking East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1142.--Ladykirk Church. View from South-West.] + +Both the interior and exterior of the church are quite plain, especially +the former, in which there is no attempt at ornament of any kind. As +regards the exterior, the buttresses with their pinnacles, and the +windows with their simple tracery, give a pleasing effect, especially as +seen from the east (Fig. 1143). + +Perhaps the most striking feature of the exterior is the elliptic form +of the arches over the side windows of the nave and choir (see Fig. +1142). This peculiar form has evidently resulted from the desire to make +these windows as wide as possible, so as to admit light. But as all the +window + +[Illustration: FIG. 1143.--Ladykirk Church. View from South-East.] + +arches required to be kept below the springing of the vaults, the +interior is but imperfectly lighted. There are three doorways in the +building--the south-west door in the nave, the priest’s door in the +chancel, and a door in the south transept. These are all semicircular in +the arch-head, as is common in Scottish examples. That in the south +transept is now built up. + +The tower at the west end is 14 feet square externally. The lower part +is of the same date as the church, and has the base courses returning +round it. The upper part has been rebuilt. The doorway to the tower is +from the outside. + + + + +SETON COLLEGIATE CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +A disused edifice situated in the private grounds of Seton Castle, about +two miles east from Prestonpans Railway Station. The parish of Seton +having been joined to that of Tranent in 1580, service in the church has +from that time been abandoned. + +There was a church here from an early date. It is rated in the ancient +Taxatio at 18 merks. In a MS. pedigree of the family of Seton, by +Maitland of Lethington, quoted by Grose,[105] it is stated that Sir +Alex. Seton, in the time of David II., was buried in the Parish Church +of Seton. Also that Katherine Sinclair, wife of William, first Lord +Seton, about 1390, “Biggit ane yle on the south side of the Paroch Kirk +of Seton of fine estlar, pendit and theikit it with stane, with ane +sepulchar thairin quhair she lies.” Her son John (died 1441) was buried +in this aisle. + +George, the second Lord Seton, in 1493, made the church collegiate. He +built the sacristy and covered it with stone in the reign of James IV. +He died in 1507, and was buried near the high altar. + +George, the third Lord Seton, who was slain at Flodden, “Theickit the +Queir of Seton with stane.” Jane Hepburne, his widow, after his decease, +“Biggit the forewark of Seton above the zit, and also she biggit the +northomoss yll of the College Kirk of Seton and took down the yll biggit +be Dame Katherine Sinclair on the south side of it, the said college +kirk, because the syde of it stood to the syde of the kirk, to mack it a +parfecte and a proper cornet and a cross kirk and biggit up the steeple +as ye see it now to ane grit hight swa that it wants little of +compleiting.” This lady also presented the church with many ornaments of +silver and rich vestments. + +From the above quotations it would appear that the parish church existed +in the fourteenth century. This church was probably rebuilt towards the +end of the fifteenth century, and was added to by the second Lord Seton +when he made the church collegiate in 1493, and completed by the third +Lord Seton. The transepts and tower and spire would appear to have been +erected by the Dowager Lady Seton in the sixteenth century, after her +husband’s death at the Battle of Flodden. + +The collegiate foundation consisted of a provost, six prebendaries, one +clerk, and two singing boys. The edifice has undoubtedly been rebuilt or +restored at the date of its being made collegiate. It corresponds in +style with the numerous collegiate foundations established in the +fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The eastern apsidal termination, the +stone roof supported on a pointed barrel vault, and other details point +to its date and associate it with the other collegiate churches of +Scotland erected in the fifteenth century. + +In 1544 the structure suffered much at the hands of the English +invaders, who carried off the organ and bells, and burnt the timber +work. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1144.--Seton Collegiate Church. Plan.] + +The stone roof of the choir was removed at some period. The masonry, +however, survived, and the edifice has now been roofed in and properly +defended from the weather by the late Lord Wemyss, who, along with his +Countess, is buried in the choir. The broken tracery of the windows has +been renewed by the present Lord Wemyss. The church was designed + +[Illustration: FIG. 1145.--Seton Collegiate Church. View from +South-East.] + +as a complete cross without aisles, and with a central tower and spire +over the intersection, but the nave has never been built. The portions +erected (Fig. 1144) consist of the choir (with its three-sided apsidal +east end), a north sacristy, a north and south transept, and a central +tower and spire over the crossing. The choir is 53 feet in length by 22 +feet in width internally. The exterior (Fig. 1145) is divided into three +bays, separated by buttresses. There is a round-headed doorway in the +central bay of the south wall, with a panel containing a coat of arms in +the upper part of the wall, and mullioned windows in the other bays +(including the apse), except that in the north wall at the part where +the sacristy is built. The arched heads are all filled with tracery of a +simple character and of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1146.--Seton Collegiate Church. Corbels on +Buttresses.] + +a pattern common in third pointed work. The buttresses are of good +substantial form, and each is crowned with a square, but rather stunted, +pinnacle, the enriched pyramidal tops of nearly all of them being +wanting. A carved corbel and canopy are placed on the face of each +buttress to receive a statue, but they are now all empty. Fig. 1146 +shows two of these corbels, one containing the Seton arms. The cornice +of the choir is enriched with flower ornaments. + +The interior of the choir (Fig. 1147) is extremely simple. It is roofed +with a pointed barrel vault, the surface of which, towards the east end, +is ornamented with moulded ribs. These ribs spring from corbels in each +angle of the apse and in the side walls, and extend to nearly the +centre of the choir, where they cease, leaving the remainder of the +vault plain. The idea has apparently been, by the introduction of these +ribs, to make the presbytery somewhat ornamental. The windows, being +below the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1147.--Seton Collegiate Church. Choir, looking +East.] + +springing of the vault, are necessarily low, and the vault is in +consequence dark. There are a plain sedilia, with elliptic arch, and an +ornate piscina (Fig. 1148) at the east end of the south wall. Opposite +them in the north wall a monument (Fig. 1149) under the north-east +window contains, in an arched recess, an effigy, probably that of the +second Lord Seton, who erected the church into a college. The choir is +now roofed with wood and slates above the vault, but it was no doubt +originally + +[Illustration: FIG. 1148. + +Seton Collegiate Church. + +Piscina in Choir.] + +covered with a roof of overlapping stone slabs. The door to the sacristy +is opposite that in the south wall. The sacristy is about 14 feet by 12 +feet. It has a plain barrel vault, which supports an upper story, of +which the window is visible (Fig. 1150), but there is no apparent means +of access to it. The building has a roof of overlapping stone flags. The +sacristy has one small eastern window, with a piscina near it, and a +fireplace. In the angle next the apse there is a squint commanding a +view of the altar. + +The tower is 25 feet square. On the ground level there are arched +openings 9 feet 6 inches wide (Fig. 1151) towards the choir and each +transept, and also in the west wall towards the intended nave, the +latter being built up. The stair turret is placed at the south-east +angle, and partly projects into the south transept (Fig. 1152). It is +also visible on the exterior (see Fig. 1145). The tower is carried up +over the crossing one story in height above the roof, and is crowned +with a broach-spire, the top of which is unfinished. This is one of the +very few examples of broach-spires in Scotland. The ground floor over +the crossing is groin vaulted, and has a circular opening in the centre. + +The transepts are each about 27 feet long by 18 feet wide, and each is +divided into two bays, with buttresses, pinnacles, and traceried +windows, similar to those of the choir. These traceries were all much +damaged, but they have been repaired by Lord Wemyss. The vaulting (see +Figs. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1149.--Seton Collegiate Church. Monument under +North-East Window.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1150.--Seton Collegiate Church. View from +North-East.] + +1151 and 1152) is of the pointed barrel kind, similar to that of the +choir, but without ribs, and supports a roof composed of overlapping +stone flags + +[Illustration: FIG. 1151.--Seton Collegiate Church. Transept, looking +South.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1152.--Seton Collegiate Church. View from South +Transept, looking North.] + +(see Figs. 1145 and 1150). The north and south end windows of the +transepts (Fig. 1153) are peculiar. They are of considerable size, and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1153.--Seton Collegiate Church. Transept, from +South.] + +each is divided into two compartments by a large stone mullion built in +courses, each compartment being filled with smaller tracery. Several +examples of this mode of treating large windows about this period may +be mentioned, such as King’s College, Aberdeen; Haddington Church, &c. +There is an arched recess under the two large end windows of the north +and south transepts (see Figs. 1151 and 1152), which perhaps at one time +contained monuments. A piscina occurs in the east wall of the south +transept (Fig. 1154), and another, supported on three heads, on the +north-west pier of the tower. Other monuments in the Renaissance + +[Illustration: FIG. 1154.--Seton Collegiate Church. Piscina in South +Transept.] + +style have been erected against the east walls of the transepts (see +Fig. 1151). An octagonal font (Fig. 1155), carved with shields bearing +the Seton and other arms, is placed in a temporary manner in the +crossing. + +From the history of the structure it would appear, as above mentioned, +that the transept and tower were erected by Jane Hepburne (Lady Seton) +in the sixteenth century. The style of the transept is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1155.--Seton Collegiate Church. Font at Crossing.] + +evidently later than that of the choir, but the details of the +buttresses have been copied in the later part of the structure from +those of the earlier part. + + + + +THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ARBUTHNOTT, KINCARDINESHIRE. + + +This church, which is dedicated to St. Ternan, is situated about three +or four miles from Bervie, and not far from the old mansion of +Arbuthnott. It is an exceedingly interesting and picturesque structure, +and contains work of three distinct periods, representing different +phases of Scottish ecclesiastical architecture. There is first the +chancel (Fig. 1156), dedicated by Bishop Bernham in 1242, and possibly +the nave may also be in part of the same period. Then there is the very +striking south wing or aisle, which is known, from the Arbuthnott +Missal, to have been built by Sir Robert Arbuthnott in the end of the +fifteenth century. This aisle (Fig. 1157), which is two stories in +height, is a remarkable example of the style with which we are familiar +in the collegiate and other churches of the period. In the third place, +the quaint west end (Fig. 1158) represents an example of the application +to an ecclesiastical structure of features of the domestic architecture +of the country, of which there are so many examples throughout +Scotland. In February 1889 “the nave, then the only part in use, was +burned, and the fire destroyed a partition which cut off the chancel.” +None of the structural features of the church suffered any damage, and +the chancel and the south aisle, having little or nothing in their +construction of a combustible nature, escaped altogether. The church has +been well restored by Mr. A. M. Mackenzie, architect, Aberdeen,[106] a +new roof having been placed on the nave and chancel, and suitable new +fittings and furniture introduced. The three windows in the east wall of +the chancel have been renewed, exactly after the remains of the original +ones. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1156.--The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Plan.] + +The nave, which measures internally about 60 feet 6 inches long by 18 +feet wide, has a north and south round-arched doorway, with a bead +moulding on the angles. These doorways are, perhaps, of the sixteenth +century. The three windows on the south side have centre mullions, and +are finished with straight lintels (see Fig. 1157); and, although +renewed, they represent the original arrangement. Besides these there +are two small windows in the west gable (see Fig. 1158). A stoup in the +wall inside adjoins the south door. + +The chancel arch is about 12 feet wide by 13 feet high. It has a double +splay on each side, and is acutely pointed. The chancel is about 26 feet +5 inches long by 15 feet 6 inches wide. The total internal length of +the church is 90 feet. There is a small north doorway in the chancel, +which was evidently not meant to lead to the outside, but to a + +[Illustration: FIG. 1157.--The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. South +Aisle.] + +sacristy or some such apartment; and projecting tusk stones in the +corner outside the door show that such a building was contemplated. The +chancel (Fig. 1159) is lighted by small widely splayed windows on each +side, and three lintelled windows in the east end (Fig. 1160). Mr. +Mackenzie shows reasons for believing that this gable has been +reconstructed, and that it originally had only two windows in the lower +part, with perhaps some kind of central window at a higher level, +something like what is found at Mortlach. The pointed piscina (Fig. +1161) beneath the eastmost south window (see Fig. 1160) has, as usual, +been mutilated. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1158.--The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. View +from South-West.] + +To connect the chancel with the Arbuthnott Aisle a round archway (see +Fig. 1160), 7 feet 8 inches wide, has been cut through the chancel wall. +The details of this arch are shown in Fig. 1162. This chapel or aisle, +which has an apsidal south end, measures about 20 feet 3 inches long by +12 feet 11 inches wide, and has a vaulted stone roof (Fig. 1163) about +18 feet high, with a semi-octagonal dome over the apse. This view gives +an idea of the appearance of the interior of the chapel. In front of the +apse windows stands a sarcophagus 6 feet 2 inches long by 2 feet 2 +inches wide, having a rude recumbent figure on the top. It contains the +following arms on the front, beginning at the head, viz., Douglas, +Arbuthnott, Arbuthnott, Stewart; and there appear to be indications that +there have been other shields, now cut away. There is a round arched +entrance door to the aisle on the west side (see Fig. 1157), with a +stoup beneath the adjoining window on the inside, and in the east wall +are the remains of a credence. A turret staircase (see + +[Illustration: FIG. 1159.--The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. View +from North-East.] + +Fig. 1157) gives access from the aisle to a priest’s chamber on the +upper floor, which Bishop Forbes, believing it to have been the place +where the Missal referred to below was written, describes at some +length.[107] It had a strong door, which folded back into a recess. The +room is of the same size and shape as the aisle below, and is lighted +with three windows with square heads, two in the apse, and one (the +largest) looking towards the west (see Fig. 1157). The latter is +strongly guarded with an iron grating of the usual construction. The +windows are fitted with seats like those commonly found in the castles. +“There is a stoup for holy water at the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1160.--The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Interior +of Chancel.] + +entrance, and a small ambry, ornamented with a single trefoil, probably +for the reservation of the holy Eucharist.”[108] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1161. + +The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. + +Piscina beneath Eastmost South Window.] + +The external appearance of this chapel is illustrated in Fig. 1157, +where the fine angle buttresses of the apse, with their considerable +projection and height (owing to the upper story) and their picturesque +pinnacles, and the stair turret are fully shown. The buttresses have +each an ornamental corbel and canopy for a statue placed on their face, +but without any niche. Fig. 1164 shows one of them with its elaborate +carved work. The very quaint aspect of the whole building looking from +the west is seen in the drawing (see Fig. 1158). The height of the two +turrets, as shown on Mr. Mackenzie’s geometrical drawings, is the same, +viz., 41 feet 6 inches. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1162. + +The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Details of Arch to South Aisle.] + +The Arbuthnott Missal, already referred to, with its two companion +volumes the Psalter and Office of the Blessed Virgin, have been well +described by Mr. William MacGillivray. They were specially written for +the use of this church by the vicar, James Sybbald. The Missal was +finished in the year 1491, and was presented by the writer and the +founder + +[Illustration: FIG. 1163.--The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Interior +of Chancel.] + +of the aisle “to the high altar of the pious Bishop St. Ternan.” The +Psalter was finished in 1482, and from internal evidence the last of the +three volumes was probably written a short time before the Psalter. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1164.--The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Corbel +and Canopy on Buttress.] + +From the Register of the Great Seal of date 30th May 1505, it appears +that the chapel was then endowed by Robert Arbuthnott, “James Sybbald, +Vicar of Arbuthnott,” being one of the witnesses. Sir Robert died in +1506, and the vicar in the year following. + +The building adjoining the church, seen in Fig. 1158, is the old manse. + + + + +THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF CRICHTON, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +This edifice stands on the south side of the valley where the river Tyne +takes its rise, about four miles from Tynehead Railway Station. It is +seen from the railway, together with Crichton Castle, from which it is +only about a quarter of a mile distant. + +The building is still in use as the parish church. It consists (Fig. +1165) of a chancel, measuring internally about 44 feet from east to west +by about 24 feet 10 inches in width, a central tower about 24 feet +square, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1165.--The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Plan.] + +and north and south transepts, the total length of which, from north to +south, is about 70 feet. The north wall of the nave is erected for a +length of about 16 feet, but of the south wall only a few feet have been +built. + +To adapt the edifice to the Presbyterian system of worship, probably the +very worst plan which could have been devised has been adopted, and is +shown on the Plan by clear lines. The original fabric may be said to +remain, but it is greatly deformed. As the tower opened into the unbuilt +nave it had necessarily to be walled up, and has an entrance doorway +left in the centre. This doorway, which is round arched, seems to be +old, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1166.--The Collegiate Church of Crichton. View from +South-East.] + +and was probably brought from a building which appears to have formerly +stood on the north side of the church. Across the interior of the tower +a stone wall has been built to enclose the modern church. The portion of +the tower outside this wall thus forms a vestibule, from which a stair + +[Illustration: FIG. 1167.--The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Window on +North Side.] + +leads to a west gallery fitted up in the enclosed portion of the tower. +Another door has been slapped through the east wall to the outside, and +an outer stair at the east end leads to an inserted gallery running +across that end. One window and a sacristy or similar building on the +north side have been done away with, to allow the erection of a passage +for reaching another gallery, which runs along the north side of the +chancel. The north transept has, perhaps, been worst used of all. A wall +has been built between the moulded responds to a height of about 5 feet, +and the whole area of the transept at this level is roofed over to form +a burial vault. The south transept is not utilised in any way except as +a sort of lumber place. + +Instead of this unsuitable and costly arrangement, the area of the +church as it stood would suffice to give more accommodation than is thus +obtained, and that without sacrificing the dignity of the building, as +has been done by the arrangements just described. + +It would appear from a letter by the Rev. John Gourlay, the parish +minister, to General Hutton, dated Crichton, 4th April 1789, that the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1168.--The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Sedilia.] + +tower, with probably the transepts, then sufficed for the congregation. +He says, “There is a high building upon the one end where the bell +hangs, and where divine service was lately performed, but since +considerable reparations were given, it is now again altered to what is +called the quire.” + +The original entrance to the church was on the south side of the chancel +(see Fig. 1165). It has been partly destroyed and is now built up, but +portions of its moulded jambs can still be seen. The mouldings are of a +common kind, consisting of two beads separated by a hollow. The doorway +has been 3 feet 10 inches wide. Above the doorway a window has been +roughly hacked through the wall, and on the inside of the sill there are +rudely carved the initials P. L., with the date 1729. These are probably +the initials of the worthy who contrived certain of the alterations +above described. At the same time two small windows have been knocked +through the side walls beneath the original windows on the north and +south sides nearest the east end. One of these is shown in the view Fig. +1166, and the other on the north side is shown on the Plan. These +windows have been referred to by Mr. Muir and in the Architectural +Publication Societies Dictionary as examples of lychnoscope or offertory +windows; but undoubtedly they were inserted to give light beneath the +east gallery, and are of no older date than last century. Only one of +the original windows, that on the north side, retains the original +tracery (Fig. 1167). Indications of the tracery of the transept windows +also still remain. The choir has been divided into three bays by +buttresses, which have the numerous set-offs of the period, and are +finished with the ordinary late pinnacles. The high blank wall over the +windows, which generally + +[Illustration: FIG. 1169. + +The Collegiate Church of Crichton. + +Arms in West Wall.] + +accompanies the pointed barrel vaults, has been in this case lightened +by the introduction of a false parapet (see Fig. 1166), with enrichments +of square shaped flowers, both in the main cornice and in the upper +cornice, which represents the cope of the parapet. But here there is no +parapet wall, the eaves of the roof being placed where the parapet cope +would be in ordinary circumstances. This is a plan often adopted in +domestic buildings, from which the idea was, no doubt, borrowed in this +instance. The transepts are without buttresses and have a bare +appearance. Adjoining the south entrance doorway there are what appear +to be the remains of a sedilia (Fig. 1168). The lower portion is +entirely concealed, and the eastern shaft and recess are almost blocked. +In the north wall opposite the original entrance there can be seen on +the inside the indications of a round arched doorway, now built up, +which probably led to the sacristy or a chapel, now destroyed, as +already mentioned. Five feet east from this blocked doorway there are +slight remains of a sixteenth or seventeenth century monument (see +Plan), now cut away to permit of the erection of the gallery over, and +it seems probable that from this monument was taken the coat of arms +(Fig. 1169) now built into the wall which closes up the west archway of +the tower. The shield bears the Nicolson arms, and are probably those of +Agnes Nicolson, third wife of Patrick, first Lord Elibank, who possessed +the ecclesiastical lands of the Collegiate Church of Crichton about the +beginning of the seventeenth century. Mr. Billings shows another coat of +arms on the outside of the turret stair, but this part of the building +is now a dense mass of ivy. The turret stair is in the north wall of the +nave, and is placed at some distance from the tower. Fig. 1170 shows the +piscina in the south transept. Across this + +[Illustration: FIG. 1170. + +The Collegiate Church of Crichton. + +Piscina.] + +transept, where shown on the Plan, there is a wooden screen (Fig. 1171) +of late erection, but not without some character, near its centre, and +beneath the south arch of the tower there stands up, a few inches from +the pavement, a broken worn stone about 12 inches square, the purpose of +which is not obvious. + +The church throughout is vaulted with a pointed barrel vault, but no +provision has been made for the vaulting of the nave. Crichton Church +was converted, in 1449, by Sir William Crichton, well known as +Chancellor Crichton, into a collegiate establishment for a provost, nine +prebendaries, and two singing boys, and was suitably endowed. The +existing structure was probably erected at that time. Sir William also +built an extensive addition to the Castle of Crichton, and doubtless the +same builders were employed on church and castle, as many of the details +closely resemble each other. From Mr. Gourlay’s letter, already referred +to, it appears that there was a provost’s house about a mile distant. He +mentions that it was then used as a farmhouse and called Rosehall, and +that there was a place of worship beside it and a churchyard, but with +the exception of the latter nothing now remains. + +The tower is supported by pointed arches springing from responds in the +four sides. The responds are of simple section, and the caps contain +some good late foliaged carving (see Fig. 1171). + +The walls are carried up with one low story above the set-off + +[Illustration: FIG. 1171.--The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Arch and +Screen in South Transept.] + +immediately over the sloping water table of the roofs. This story +contains, in each face, a two-light window with square lintel and +central mullion. The story is surmounted by a plain parapet, supported +by a corbel course, and the tower is finished with a gabled roof, having +a simple belfry on the apex of the east gable. + + + + +THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF CORSTORPHINE, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +The village of Corstorphine is situated about three miles west of +Edinburgh. + +The church is intimately associated with the Forrester family. It was +erected and endowed by them, and their tombs and monuments, emblazoned + +[Illustration: FIG. 1172.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Plan.] + +with heraldic emblems, are conspicuous on its walls. The manor was +acquired by Adam Forrester, a burgess and provost of Edinburgh, in the +year 1376, and the title of Lord Forrester of Corstorphine continued in +the family till the year 1763. + +There was a chapel at Corstorphine as early as the year 1128, which was +granted to the new Abbey of Holyrood. This structure afterwards became +the parish church, and continued to be so after the erection of the +collegiate church, which still exists. Of this original chapel no trace +now remains. It stood on the north side of the present building, on part +of the ground now occupied by the existing north transept. This +transept, which was built in the present century, is not the immediate +successor of the old parish church, but takes the place of an aisle +which was built in 1646, the erection of which caused the removal of +what remained of the old parish church. + +The existing church (Fig. 1172) consists of a chancel, a nave with north +and south transepts situated at its west end, a western tower and spire, +and a sacristy on the north side of the chancel. The whole building is +small in size and of low proportions, the height of the tower and spire + + +[Illustration: FIG. 1173. + +The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. + +Stone Built into Wall of Field.] + +being only 50 feet, but although somewhat debased in style, it is very +quaint and picturesque. + +The structure suffered great alteration and damage from a restoration +which took place about the beginning of this century. At that time the +north transept, together with the seventeenth century aisle, above +mentioned, and a part of the nave were taken down.[109] A new north +transept was built, and a new additional nave was erected on the north +side of the old nave. A doorway was knocked through the east wall of the +chancel, which necessitated the shortening of the large east window +above it by raising the sill. At the same time, the chancel was +converted into a lumber chamber and porch, by the process of building up +the chancel arch. As regards the sacristy, its floor has been dug out to +a depth of about 7 feet, and it is now used as a heating chamber and +coal cellar. + +During this restoration a quantity of carved and moulded stones was +removed from the church to Juniper Green, in the vicinity, where +probably about fifty fragments, several containing the Forrester arms, +were built into a wall on the road leading from the above village to +Baberton House, but the wall has since been removed. Fig. 1173 is a +sketch of one of these stones, bearing three hunting horns impaling a +bend engrailed. At Hermiston House, also, several carved blocks + +[Illustration: FIG. 1174.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. View +from South-East.] + +removed from Corstorphine Church have been preserved, some of which +contain the Forrester arms. + +The plan of the building (omitting the alterations above described) is +remarkable. It seems to consist of two portions--(1) the transepts and +division to the east of them, forming one church, and (2) the choir +further + +[Illustration: FIG. 1175.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. +Sedilia in the Chancel.] + +to the east, which seems to have formed an independent chapel. This view +is supported by the history of the structure. + +In the east wall of the chancel a stone is fixed, with an inscription in +memory of the first provost of the college, the stone being “apparently +transferred,” says Mr. Laing, “from the place where the provost was +buried.” The inscription is in the following terms, viz.:-- + +Istud · collegiū · incepit · āno · dn̄i · Mº,ccccºxxix · et · eodē · +āno: maḡr · nicholay^{q} · bānachtȳ · p^{r}posit^{q} · hic · subt^{q} · +iacēs · qui · obiit · āno: dn̄i · Mºcccc{o}lxx ... cui^{q} · +āniu^{r}sare · simul · pr̄ isq · mr̄ is: celebrabitur · xiiiiº ·die · +mēsis · iunii · p · quo · ānuus · redditus · x: s · in · villa · de · +kyrk · cramuound · orate · pro · āib^{q} · eor^{l.} [This collegiate +church was begun in the year of our Lord 1429, and in the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1176.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. +Piscina in Chancel.] + +same year Mr. Nicol Bannatyne was provost here, who, lying beneath, died +in the year 1470. A commemoration of him and his successors in office +will be celebrated on the 14th of June annually, for which an annual +rent of £10 is set apart, out of the lands of Kirk Cramond--Pray for +their souls.] + +This inscription clearly fixes the date of the commencement of the +collegiate church, but although it has been transferred to the chancel, +there is nothing to show that the collegiate church it refers to is the +chancel. It is quite as likely to have reference to the church to the +west of the chancel, from which it was probably removed to its present +position. Both from the arrangement of the Plan and the aspect of the +eastern part of the building generally, it presents a distinct +individuality. It is both + +[Illustration: FIG. 1177.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Tomb +of Sir John Forrester and his Wife.] + +higher and wider than the church to the west, and suggests the idea of +having been built at a different time. Now it is matter of history that +Adam Forrester, already mentioned, who died in 1405, built a chapel +dedicated to St. John the Baptist adjoining the parish church, and it is +not unlikely that this chancel was that chapel. + +In 1425-6 a charter was granted by King James I. for the endowment of +three chaplainries in the chapel contiguous to the Parish Church of +Corstorphine,[110] and securing to it, amongst other things, the annual +rents in Edinburgh bestowed by the late Sir Adam Forrester. That charter +clearly shows that this chapel, wherever situated, was in existence +before + +[Illustration: FIG. 1178.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. + +Tomb of Sir John Forrester (younger) and his Wife.] + +the year mentioned in Provost Bannatyne’s inscription. Further, in the +Chamberlain Rolls of 1434,[111] reference is made to the three chaplains +of the Chapel of St. John the Baptist--“contiguous to the Parish Church +of Corstorphine,” showing the independent existence of that chapel after +the date in the Bannatyne inscription. It seems, therefore, most +probable that this was the chapel erected by Sir Adam Forrester. + +Sir Adam was succeeded by his son Sir John Forrester, who filled the +office of Great Chamberlain of Scotland, and on the return of James I. +from England was appointed Master of the Household in 1424. The + +[Illustration: FIG. 1179.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Tomb +in South Transept.] + +collegiate church was founded and endowed by Sir John. Although the +inscription to Bannatyne, the first provost, says that it was begun in +1429, the foundation was only completed by a Papal Bull in 1444, at +which date Sir John was probably living. The foundation consisted of a +provost, four prebendaries, and two singing boys. + +From the above records, and also from the style of the architecture, +there can scarcely be a doubt but that the church to the west was the +collegiate church erected after 1444, and in designing it, the plan was +so arranged as to incorporate the older Chapel of St. John the Baptist +as the chancel of the new church. It is remarkable that, although the +chancel + +[Illustration: FIG. 1180.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Tomb +in South Transept.] + +contains monuments to his successors, there is none to Sir Adam, the +supposed founder of it. It may, however, be mentioned that Mr. Laing +believes that an inscription on a stone, which has been built out of its +proper place, in the small porch to the west of the tower, has been +taken from a monument to Sir Adam. + +Whether the above view of the history of the Church of Corstorphine is +correct or not, the chancel or the Chapel of St. John the Baptist is the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1181.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Window +and Arms in South Transept.] + +most interesting part of the building. It measures internally 25 feet 6 +inches in length by 21 feet in width, and is covered with a pointed +barrel vault, having a roof of overlapping stone flags. It contains an + +[Illustration: FIG. 1182.--The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. View +from South-West.] + +east window of three lights (Fig. 1174), having perpendicular tracery, +the lower part of which has been altered, as above pointed out. + +There are two small windows in the south side of the chancel, and +between them, in the interior, is a fine sedilia, somewhat mutilated +(Fig. 1175). Beside it is a piscina (Fig. 1176), with the basin, as +usually happens, cut away. In the niche of the piscina there is a stone +shelf used as a credence table, and over the niche a projecting round +canopy. A very similar canopy exists over the upper small niche on the +exterior of the east gable. + +In the north wall of the chancel are two recessed tombs (Figs. 1177 and +1178). These monuments, judging from the disturbed appearance of the +surrounding masonry and from the different character of the two designs, +were apparently not original parts of the chapel, but were subsequently +inserted as the occasion arose. The arch stones of the westmost tomb +(see Fig. 1177), that of Sir John Forrester (the eldest son of Sir Adam) +and his wife, are cut away or concealed by the west wall of the chapel, +an arrangement not likely to have been adopted had the tomb been erected +when the chapel was built. This monument is usually called the Founder’s +Tomb, from the circumstance that Sir John founded the collegiate church. +He was twice married: first, to Jean Sinclair, daughter of Henry, first +Earl of Orkney; and, second, to Dame Marion Stewart, Lady Dalswinton, +widow of Sir John Stewart.[112] His effigy rests on the tomb, along with +that of one of his wives. Sir John died after the year 1444. + +The eastmost tomb (see Fig. 1178) is that of the son of the foregoing, +also Sir John, who died before 1454. It contains his effigy and that of +his wife. It does not appear to be known to what family the lady +belonged; but from the heraldic blazons (to be afterwards described) she +seems to have been a member of the Wigmer family. + +There is another tomb situated in the south transept (Figs. 1179 and +1180). It is believed to be that of Sir Alexander Forrester, son of the +last mentioned Sir John. The date of his death is not recorded, but he +is known to have been alive in 1467. It contains his effigy only. There +has been a finial on the tomb, which is now gone. + +The amount of heraldic carving on the above tombs, on the gable of the +south transept (Fig. 1181), and on the western porch (Fig. 1182) is +considerable and is well preserved.[113] + +The arms represented on the various shields throughout the whole series +comprise, for the different members of the Forrester family above +mentioned, + + FORRESTER OF CORSTORPHINE, viz.:-- + + Argent, three hunting horns stringed sable. + + These occur alone and conjoined with the arms of their wives, + viz.:-- + + I. Sinclair, Earl of Orkney. + + 1st and 4th. Azure, a lymphad within a double tressure, flory + counter flory, or (for Orkney). + + 2nd and 3rd. Argent, a cross engrailed (for Sinclair). + + II. Stewart of Dalswinton. + + Or, a fesse chequé azure and argent, surmounted of a bend engrailed + gules. + + III. Wigmer. + + Argent, on a bend sable a ribbon dancettée of the field. + + IV. Forrester (differenced with Sinclair--probably an unauthorised + coat). + + Argent, a cross engrailed and couped between three hunting horns + sable. + + + The above arms are distributed as follow on the three tombs-- + + FIRST TOMB, SIR JOHN FORRESTER (see Fig. 1177). + + 1st shield. Forrester. + + 2nd shield. Forrester impaling Sinclair, Earl of Orkney. The dexter + half only--viz., 1st and 3rd quarters of the complete arms--being + given. + + 3rd shield. Forrester. + + 4th shield. Forrester impaling Stewart of Dalswinton. + + 5th shield. Forrester. + + SECOND TOMB, SIR JOHN FORRESTER, son of above--Eastmost (see Fig. + 1178). + + 1st shield. Forrester. + + 2nd shield. Forrester impaling Wigmer. + + 3rd shield. Forrester. + + THIRD TOMB, SIR ALEXANDER FORRESTER (see Figs. 1179 and 1180). + + 1st shield. Sinclair of Orkney (1st and 3rd quarters only) impaling + Forrester (the same arms as first tomb, 2nd shield, but reversed, + in error). + + 2nd shield. Forrester. + + 3rd shield. Forrester differenced with Sinclair. + + The shields on the gable of the south transept (see Figs. 1174 and + 1181) are as follow-- + + 1st. Central shield, Forrester. + + 2nd and 3rd. (Two shields, one on each side of the large window.) + Forrester impaling Wigmer. + + These shields are all reversed, so that the shield is couché the + wrong way and the crest looks the wrong way. The impaled shields + have Forrester on the sinister instead of the dexter, and the + Wigmer arms make the bend and ribbon sinister instead of dexter. + +SOUTH TRANSEPT. + +The shields, both on the gable outside and on the tomb inside, seem to +have been carelessly executed from an impression of the arms, thus +placing everything in the reverse way; so that what in the original is +on the dexter side of the shield is here on the sinister, a bend is +converted into a bend sinister, and so throughout. + +The two shields on the porch are--1st, Forrester; 2nd, Forrester +impaling Wigmer. + +The sacristy, on the north side of the chancel, enters by a plain +lintelled door between the two tombs (see Fig. 1172). It has a rough +pointed barrel vault, and looks, from there being windows at two levels, +as if it had contained two stories. The sill of the east window projects +about 11 inches; and Mr. Muir considers it, without doubt, to have been +an altar.[114] Adjoining this window is a piscina, with the orifice of +its drain wrought on the base mouldings outside. + +As regards the architecture of the church, it accords well with the +other collegiate structures of the latter half of the fifteenth century. +The perpendicular tracery in the east window of the chancel and the +south window of the transept (see Figs. 1173 and 1181) is remarkable, +such tracery being very uncommon in Scotland. These two large windows +are recessed in the wall, the outer jambs having two or three broad +splays. The side windows have the tracery flush with the outer face of +the wall. + +The buttresses have the usual numerous set-offs. They have now finials, +consisting of cubic stones carved as sundials; but, as Mr. T. S. Muir +states, these are modern additions, the buttresses having doubtless been +originally pinnacled above the eaves. + +The tower to the west of the transept (Fig. 1182) is one of the most +characteristic features of the structure. It measures externally about +18 feet 6 inches from north to south by 17 feet 3 inches from east to +west. The tower has a door to the church, and also a west doorway. It +thus formed an entrance porch to the building; but another porch has +been added to the west, which is vaulted and covered with a stone roof. + +The tower is built with ashlar, and rises, without buttresses, to the +eaves. A two-light window is introduced on each face under the cornice. +Above the tower there is a stone spire of the stunted description usual +at the period. Four pinnacles give some relief to the angles at the base +of the spire. The latter is divided by battlemented string courses into +three stories, and has lucarnes in the middle story. + +After the Reformation the collegiate church became the church of the +parish in 1593, and has so continued ever since. + + + + +THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF CRAIL, FIFESHIRE. + + +The quaint old seaport of Crail lies near the eastern point of the north +side of the Frith of Forth. It is one of the earliest places in Scotland +which are known to have carried on commerce with the Continent, having +had intercourse with the Netherlands in the ninth century, where its +salt fish were sold, and the name of Crail occurs on a map of the +twelfth century. + +There was in ancient times a royal castle at Crail, in which David I. +resided, and a number of names still exist in the locality, showing its +connection with royalty. The earliest charter of the burgh was granted +by Bruce in 1310, and confirmed by subsequent kings. It is believed that +at one time Crail was the site of a priory dedicated to St. Rufus, the +tradition of which is preserved in several local names, such as, the +prior’s croft, the prior’s walls, the nun’s peat field, and the house of +the prioress, which in 1640 was in the hands of a neighbouring +proprietor. + +The Church of Crail belonged from an early date to the Cistercian Nuns +of Haddington. In 1177 the stipend is mentioned. This church was made +collegiate and well endowed by Sir William Myreton, vicar of Lathrick in +1509. He also established the altar of St. Michael the Archangel in +1512, and in 1514 he founded an altar to the praise and honour of God, +the Virgin Mary, and all saints, which he placed in the presentation and +donation of the bailies and community. Sir William Myreton also showed +himself a benefactor of the town by founding schools there in 1525, one +being for the teaching of grammar and the other of music. In 1515, +besides the above chaplainries, there existed in the church chaplainries +of St. James the apostle, St. Bartholomew, and St. Nicholas. An +inventory has been preserved, from which it appears that the various +altars were well furnished with plate and vestments. On account of the +foundation of the new College in the parish church, a charter was issued +by Andrew, Archbishop of St. Andrews, confirming letters by the Prioress +of Haddington, by Sir William Myreton, by the bailies and community of +Crail, and by the parishioners of the parish church, for the foundation +of a provostry with ten prebendaries, to be in the gift of the Prioress. +In 1520 another prebend was added, viz., that of St. John the Baptist. +The priory of Haddington having been erected in 1621 into a temporal +lordship in favour of John, Master of Lauderdale, the kirk lands of +Crail fell to him. + +But in 1587 James VI. had granted a charter to the town of everything +belonging to the chaplainries, altarages, and prebends, or to the kirk +or college, except what pertained to the Abbey of Haddington. This +charter was granted on account of the prebendaries and others following +the usual course as the Reformation approached, and alienating the lands +of their benefices for their own private advantage. The old College +Church thus passed into the hands of the burgh, and was confirmed to it +in 1633 by Act of Parliament, and is still used as the parish +church.[115] + +Although the fabric has been subjected to a considerable amount of +modern improvement, many of the original features still remain. The +main body of the church (Fig. 1183) consists, as it has always done, of +an oblong main structure, divided by two rows of columns into a central +nave, and two side aisles. The nave is 63 feet long, the central +division being 27 feet 6 inches wide, and the side aisles 11 feet wide. +The central columns carry pointed arches (Fig. 1184), and in the wall +above them was originally a small window over each column (not over the +arches as usual) with widely splayed jambs and trefoil head. The roof of +the aisles, being below the sill of these clerestory windows, was +necessarily low. This was found in recent times to be a disadvantage, +and the walls of the aisles have been rebuilt and heightened, so as to +allow the roof of the central nave to run down over them without a break +(Fig. 1185). The old clerestory windows are thus roofed in, and are only +visible in the inside + +[Illustration: FIG. 1183.--The Collegiate Church of Crail. Plan.] + +of the nave. The windows of the aisles are all modern. The piers are +round and bear simple caps (see Fig. 1184), and these and the clerestory +windows are plainly of a very late date, although the cap mouldings (see +Fig. 1184) have been copied from old forms. + +To the east of the nave was the choir, now converted into a vestry 20 +feet 6 inches long by 17 feet wide. The chancel arch springs from two +responds, the shafts of which have an ancient appearance, but they have +probably been reconstructed in imitation of ancient work. One of the +small original windows is preserved in the north wall of the chancel. It +is about 18 inches in width, and has a plain pointed arch with chamfer +on edge. + +There has been an arch at the west end of the church with similar +shafts to those of the chancel arch. This arch opened into the tower +which rises against the centre of the west wall of the church, and is +divided into several floors, and provided with a newell stair leading to +them. + +The tower (see Fig. 1185) is a picturesque object, though perfectly +plain. It rises with square angles, without buttresses or other breaks +from the base to the parapet. Its short spire, together with the +projection containing the turret stair, form a pleasing group. The whole +presents a characteristic specimen of our simple Scottish church +steeples. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1184.--The Collegiate Church of Crail. Main Arcade +and Clerestory Windows.] + +Although it has been thought that some of the features (above referred +to) belong to the first pointed period, it is much more likely that the +whole structure, except the recent work, dates from the beginning of the +sixteenth century, when the collegiate establishment was instituted, and +when the old parish church appears to have been reconstructed. Several +similar towers of late date in the locality will be illustrated. + +The church has apparently been renovated, internally, after the +Reformation, when a good deal of carved oak work has been introduced. +This oak work (Fig. 1186) is now employed as a lining of the walls along +the south and east sides of the church, and is obscured by a number of +pews which abut against it. It is excellent work of the period, and it +is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1185.--The Collegiate Church of Crail. View from +North-West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1186.--The Collegiate Church of Crail. Carved +Woodwork.] + +unfortunate that it should be so completely lost to sight. One of the +panels contains a shield with a coat of arms, apparently that of +Cunningham of Barns, with the initials A. C. and the date 1605. When the +church was handed over to the town the rights of Cunningham of Barns +were reserved. He had thus some interest in the church or lands. This +carved work seems to have been the gift of Alexander Cunningham, who at +the above date was Laird of Barns. The arms of his wife, Helen, daughter +of Thomas Myrton of Cambo, are seen, with her initials, on the smaller +panel to the right. Another shield bears the coat and initials of +Katherine Lindsay, wife of Thomas Myrton of Cambo, with the date 1598. +Other shields (not shown in the illustration) bear the arms of Learmonth +of Balcomie (1594). + + + + +ST. MARY’S, WHITEKIRK, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +This charming old building is one of the few rural parish churches of +mediæval times still used for divine service. The church seems to have +had its origin in a neighbouring holy well. The following extract from +documents in the Vatican gives some account of its origin and +history:--[116] + + “The great number of miracles performed at this well were so + numerous that in 1309 John Abernethy, with the assistance of the + monks of Melrose, procured a shrine to be erected, and dedicated it + to the Holy Mother. In 1413 there were no less than 15,653 pilgrims + of all nations, and the offerings were equal to 1422 merks. In + 1430, James I., King of Scotland, being a good man who loved the + Church, built the Abbey of the Holy Cross at Edinburgh, and took + the Chapel of Fairknowe into his protection, added much to it by + the building of houses for the reception of pilgrims, called it + Whitechapel, where he often went and made it a dependant on his own + abbey of the Holy Cross. In 1439, Adam Hepburn of Hailes built a + choir all arched with stone, agreeable to the mode of Peter de + Main, and so it continued in great prosperity as a place of + sanctity until the year 1540, that the cup of vengeance was full, + and heresy covered the North.” + +Whitekirk was a dependency of Holyrood, as mentioned in the above +extract. It was a great place of pilgrimage, and was visited, amongst +others, by Pope Pius II. (Æneas Sylvius), who came to render thanks to +the Virgin for his safe landing in Scotland. + +In the seventeenth century the east end was used as a church and the +west end as a school. In 1760 the Parish of Tynningham was added to +Whitekirk, and some of the fittings of the former were brought to the +latter. Thus the Haddington gallery in the north transept was adorned +with the front of the gallery from Tynningham. During this century some +attempts have been made to improve the structure. In 1832 a “pseudo +south transept” was built, and the Seacliffe gallery (which resembles a +large Dutch cabinet) was introduced. + +This church, like many others erected in the fifteenth century, is on + +[Illustration: FIG. 1187.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. Plan.] + +the plan of a cross without aisles (Fig. 1187). The choir is vaulted +with a pointed barrel vault, and the outer roof is slated. Over the +crossing (Fig. 1188) rises a square tower, finished with a plain +parapet. The east + +[Illustration: FIG. 1188.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. View from +South-West.] + +end is square, and there is a fine entrance porch at the south-west +angle. The church is built with red freestone, which is toned with age, +and the whole building is one of the most picturesque and pleasing of +our old parish churches. + +The nave and choir measure internally 103 feet in length by about 22 +feet in width. The choir is divided by bold buttresses into two bays, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1189.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. Buttress and Window in +Choir.] + +in each of which is a traceried window, the cusping of which is +peculiar. The forms of the buttresses and tracery are shown in Fig. +1189. The east end has a small circular quatrefoiled window set high in +the wall (Fig. 1190), over which is a panel containing a shield bearing +a fessé with a crozier behind it, probably the arms of Abbot Crawford of +Holyrood (1460-1483). + +The west end (Fig. 1191) and the south transept have been rebuilt. + +The south-west porch (Fig. 1192) is one of the most striking features + +[Illustration: FIG. 1190.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. East Gable.] + +of the structure. It measures 13 feet wide by 9 feet deep internally, +and has a stone bench on each side. The entrance is by an open archway, +with clustered shafts, having enriched caps from which spring the bold +mouldings of the arch. At each of the outer angles of the porch is a +diagonal buttress having a niche on the inner face, and finished on the +top with crocketed pinnacles. Over the doorway there is a panel with +small buttresses at the jambs, and canopied head with scroll ornament +over. + +The interior of the porch is roofed with pointed barrel vaulting, having +ribs springing from carved corbels. The door to the church is square +headed and is surmounted by a niche, which formerly contained a statue +of the Blessed Virgin. + +The interior of the church (Fig. 1193) is very plain. The tower is +supported on arches at the crossing, which spring from attached piers +with moulded caps. The space over the crossing is vaulted with groins, +having a circular boss in the centre. The tower (see Fig. 1188) is +carried up with plain walls to two stories above the roof, and has in +the upper + +[Illustration: FIG. 1191.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. View from North-West.] + +part or belfry a window on each side, with central mullion, now much +decayed by the weather. A stair turret (Fig. 1194) is attached to the +north-west angle of the tower, and enters from the exterior. The north +wall of the nave has been altered at the point adjoining the tower. + +At a distance of about 100 yards north from the church stands a plain + +[Illustration: FIG. 1192.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. South-West Porch.] + +building (Fig. 1195), which is believed to have been the tithe barn of +the parish. It is situated on the edge of a rocky ridge which slopes +steeply + +[Illustration: FIG. 1193.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. Interior, looking +East.] + +downwards on the north side. In the view (Fig. 1196) taken from the low +ground on the north side the top of the church spire is seen. The barn +measures about 65 feet 4 inches in length from east to west, by about 20 +feet in breadth over the walls. It has been built at two periods. The +western portion, measuring on the outside about 21 feet 3 inches by 20 + +[Illustration: FIG. 1194.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. The Tower, from +North-West.] + +feet, has originally been a pele tower, with walls about 5 feet in +thickness, and was altered at a later period, when it was extended into +a barn. The present entrance to the keep is in the south wall, which +appears to have been rebuilt of the same reduced thickness (2 feet 4 +inches) as the barn walls. This doorway leads into a vaulted ground +floor, from which a door + +[Illustration: FIG. 1195.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. Plans of Tithe Barn.] + +to a small lobby gives access to a narrow straight stair leading to the +first floor, contained in the thickness of the north wall. The stair is +lighted + +[Illustration: FIG. 1196.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. Tithe Barn, from +North-East.] + +with narrow slits, and the door at the top leading into what was +originally the hall is finished in the way usual in such structures, +with well wrought splays round the stone jambs and lintel. On the first +floor the east wall of the pele tower has been taken down. The junction +of the tower with the barn is plainly visible from the rough face of the +masonry in the interior of the north wall, where the east wall of the +tower has been cut away. The upper part of the tower being thus thrown +into the barn, a few steps, as shown on the Plan, lead up to the latter. +There is an upper floor in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1197.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. Tithe Barn, from +North-West.] + +the roof of the barn supported on the ties of the roof and reached by a +wooden stair. The windows of this floor are shown in the gables. When +the barn was built the upper part of the north wall of the keep (Fig. +1197) was lowered sufficiently to allow of the eaves of the roof of the +new and narrower building being continued straight along over the wider +building of the tower. The barn proper is entered from the south side by +a doorway 7 feet 7 inches wide, and is lighted by two windows in the +south side and one in the gable. There is also a narrow doorway on the +north side, which can only have been for occasional use, the ground +being steep on that side, with only a narrow footing along the wall, +which is kept back from the line of the tower in order to obtain this +footing. At the west + +[Illustration: FIG. 1198.--St. Mary’s, Whitekirk. + +Panel in South Wall of Tithe Barn.] + +end of the barn and in the old wall of the keep there is a fireplace 8 +feet 6 inches wide, with a stone division. The fireplace, which is 5 +feet high, has an oaken lintel with a well wrought relieving arch over +it. This fireplace must have been used before the wall above was taken +down, and indicated that the tower had probably been first enlarged as a +residence and the whole afterwards converted into a barn. In the north +wall near the fireplace there is a flat recess with a pointed arch 13 +inches deep, the sill being about 3 feet above the floor. There are +indications (see Plan) that the barn walls once extended further +eastwards. + +Near the west corner of the south wall is a panel (Fig. 1198) with an +effaced coat of arms. + + + + +MID-CALDER CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +The town of Mid-Calder is situated in the western part of the County of +Mid-Lothian. + +The church was begun in the sixteenth century by Master Peter +Sandilands, Rector of Mid-Calder, a younger son of the sixth Knight of +Calder. Having raised the walls of the vestry or revestry and laid the +foundations of the choir, and being then an old man, he provided the +money for the entire completion of the church, including the nave, +tower, &c., and paid a sum over to Sir James Sandilands of Calder (his +nephew) and his son John, who bound themselves to complete the structure +according to a bond engrossed in the public records. This bond is to the +following effect:--[117] + + After the usual preliminaries and having acknowledged the receipt + of the sum of “xvj hundrethe merkis gude and vsuale money of the + realme,” they undertake “to big and compleit the revestrie of the + paroche kirk of Caldor with ane walter tabill at the heich that it + is now vnder the thak inlikwise with ane wthir walter tabill abone + the thak on the est gauill of the queir weill pendit in half round + to the said queir vnder the said tabill inlikeuise weill thekit + with thak stane And sall rais abone the said tabill in the est + gauill of the queir and abone the turneqres and the tabill thairof + tua lichtis als fair as thai may be had efferand to the heicht of + the queir And abone the walter tabill abone the thak of the + revestre and thre penis thairof to ryse cunteranis of buttreis + vpoune the said eist gauill thre penis thairof And the remanent of + the said queir to be endit of the lenthe and widenes as it is + foundit and in heicht fra the sollis of the said queir duris to the + vuer pairt of the walter tabill vnder the thak thairof xxxij futtis + And the south thre lychtis in the sydevall of the said queir betuix + the foure buttreis to ryse as thai are foundit als heich as thai + may be had in the pend of the said queir efferand to the heich + foirsaid And the saidis buttereis tobe compleit endit as thai ar + now foundit And the north turneqres in the west pairt of the north + sydevall thairof tobe tane avay And the said north vall to ryse xvj + futtis of heicht as it is foundit rouch werk with corbell and + walter tabill on the vther pairt thairof for ane closter and fra + thine vp effeirand to the heicht of the said queir aislar werk And + the said queir tobe compleitlie pendit with croce brace and rinruif + conforme to Sanct Anthonis Yle in Sanct Gelis Kirk And at the west + end of the said queir forgane the south west buttreis to rais ane + substantious wall of rouch werk sevin fut of breid fra ilk sydewall + with ane brace to be raisit tharein als heych as it may be had to + serue the west gavil of the queir with hewin oggeruris And abone + the said brace in the forsaid west gavill sulyeis tobe laid and ane + stepil tobe raisit tharepoun viij futis of breid and lenth or vj + futis braid and xij futis lenth within the sidwallis of the said + stepill quhilk sidwallis salbe of vj futis of heich abone the queir + thak at all partys with lychtis at all partis for the sound of the + bellis in the said stepill to be persit for the orlage hand and + bell in place maist gagand and convenient tharto And in the northe + angell betuix the foresaid wall vnder the grete brace and northe + wall of the kirk syd to rais ane commodious turngreis to serue the + rud loft of the said kirk and stepill foresaid als esaly as it may + be had Item to big ane kirk on the west pair(t) of the said queir + nixt the said brace contenand in lenthe iiijxx of futis and xxviij + futis braid within the wallis respectiue of rouche werk And the + wallis thairof to be foure futis thik and xxvj futis heych fra the + sole of the durris to the vuir part of the watter tabill of syd + wallis with foure buttreis one ilk syd of the said kirk eslar werk + efferand to the queir and four lycht to be biggit in the southsyd + wall of the said kirk of x futis of wydnes and als heych as thai + may be had squair lintalit efferand to the said heicht And in the + southe wall of the said kirk betuix the twa buttreis to be biggit + ane honest dur with ane plain proche with sege stabill on ilk syd + thikyt with thak stane and ane honest dur in the west gavill of the + said kirk with ane lycht abone the samen in myd gavill xij futis of + breid rysand of heich in poyntcast als heich as it may be had + efferand to the heycht of the gavill with sufficient mygallis in + all the lychtis of the said kirk and queir with plane substantious + cornettis of stane or irne quhilk salbe thocht maist gainand in the + lychtis raisit of poyntcast And to put in ilk lycht of the wyndois + grete lokartis of irne for binding of glas thareto And inlikuiss to + put grete crukis in the said kirk durrys as efferis And the said + haill kirk to be pendyt and weill thekyt with thak stane and the + watter tabill of the sidwallis of the said kirk and queir to be + larg of sulye betuix buttreis and buttereis and in ane caisment + hevin for leid to be lad thairin to schout the watter by the + wyndowis of the said kirk and queir to the angellis next the + buttreis And ilk buttere of the foirsaid kirk and queir to haif ane + honeste fiall And the alter of the queir tobe biggit of aislar werk + and the haill queir tobe weill pathit with greis befoir the said + alter and vther wayis as efferis with tua halie wattir fattis weill + hewin to the said kirk and queir And the foirsaidis kirk and queir + to be biggit and completit in maner foirsaid That is to say the + said queir within the space of thre yeris nixt efter the dait herof + And the said kirk within the space of vthair thre yeris nixt and + immediatlie thairefter.” Following on this, John Sandilands, + already mentioned, binds himself to give a “Charter and + infeftment,” securing to the chaplain the sum “of xx merkis money” + annually. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1199.--Mid-Calder Church. Plan.] + +The actual building (Fig. 1199) consists of a choir with tripartite apse +having a sacristy or vestry to the east, and it has been carried out, so +far as completed, very much in terms of the foregoing bond. + +The vestry, which projects from the east end of the choir, seems to have +been erected before the bond was executed, and the foundations of the +choir seem to have been laid at that time. The remainder of the choir +was apparently carried out afterwards, but the nave, which was carefully +specified in the bond, was never erected. + +The vestry contains two stories, the lower one being a burial vault, +which is “pendit” or vaulted, while the upper floor forms the vestry. +The + +[Illustration: FIG. 1200.--Mid-Calder Church. View from South-East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1201.--Mid-Calder Church. View from North-East.] + +small stair leading to both floors is placed in the north-east angle of +the apse. The east wall of the choir (Fig. 1200) is raised above the +roof of the vestry, and is provided with a traceried window to the east; +but there is no window in the north-east side of the apse, which is +occupied by the wheel stair (Fig. 1201). The buttresses are erected as +required by the + + +[Illustration: FIG. 1202.--Mid-Calder Church. Pinnacles on Sacristy.] + +bond, and the three south windows are introduced between them. The north +wall is carried up with rough masonry, and without any windows or +openings, and has the water table and corbels prescribed as suitable for +the roof of a cloister walk along that side (see Fig. 1201). The choir +roof has been intended to be vaulted and the lower courses of the +springing are built, but the vault was never completed. The springings +show that the vault was intended to be groined. It is specified to have +a “cross brace and rinruif,” like a chapel in St. Giles’ Church, but the +meaning of these terms is not definite. + +At the west end of the choir a very thick wall is built on each side, +with a pointed arch between (described as a brace) to support the +belfry, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1203.--Mid-Calder Church. Terminations of Labels.] + +which is minutely specified. The latter, however, was not executed till +recently. The lower part, however, above the roof was built, and the +modern belfry has been carried up upon it. In the north pier is a +“turngreis” or wheel stair described as leading to the rood loft, but +in reality it now leads to the family gallery and to the lower part of +the belfry (see Fig. 1201). A proposed nave is also minutely described. +It was to be 80 feet in length and 28 feet in width, to have four +buttresses on each side of ashlar work, and four windows in the south +wall, 10 feet + +[Illustration: FIG. 1204. Mid-Calder Church. Arms on Corbels supporting +Rood Loft.] + +wide, and square lintels. Also an “honest dur,” and a porch on the south +side with stone seats and stone roof, and another “honest dur” in the +west gable, with a large window over it. The windows were to be glazed +and the roof provided with gargoyles. + +The altar was to be built with ashlar, and the floor paved and steps +placed before the altar. The above instructions have, so far as the +structure is executed, been carefully complied with, and the edifice +presents a favourable example of the work of the early part of the +sixteenth century. Ornament has not been spared, and is specially +exhibited in the heraldic carving on the shields, with which the weather +mouldings terminate. These shields generally contain the arms of the +Sandilands family and their connections the Douglases, of which several +examples are given below. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1205.--Mid-Calder Church. Woodcarving.] + +The following is a short notice of the arms on the different parts of +the building. On the angles of the projecting sacristy (the lower story +of which contained the family burial vault) there are two pinnacles, +with very late crocketing, and finials (Fig. 1202). The south pinnacle +contains the Sandilands arms and the initials of J. Sandilands, and +other lettering, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1206.--Mid-Calder Church. Middle Bay in Choir.] + +much decayed. The north pinnacle exhibits the Sandilands arms quartered +with Douglas, and having two angels as supporters, the arms surmounted +by a helmet, with a lion’s head for crest. + + The arms on the label terminations are as follow:-- + + On the central apse window, north side, Douglas; south side, + Sandilands (a bend). + + 1st window west from central one. + + Dexter side--Lion or Griffin rampant. + + Sinister side--Cockburn--The family being allied to the Cockburns + of Ormiston. + + 2nd window to west. + + Dexter side--Lindsay (fesse chequé) (Fig. 1203, D). + + Sinister side--Sandilands quartered with Douglas, and initials P. + S. (Fig. 1203, A). + + 3rd window to west. + + Dexter side--Douglas (Fig. 1203, C). + + Sinister side--Sandilands and Douglas, with initials J. S. (Fig. + 1203, B). + +In the interior of the church the same arms occur on corbels as in the +one supporting the rood loft, now the family gallery (Fig. 1204). + +There in also a remarkable carved panel in oak (Fig. 1205), which +combines the above arms _reversed_, with the initials J. S. and J. L., +and the date 1595, together with certain Scripture texts. + +The Douglas descent is throughout prominently displayed, and the heart +and stars sometimes occupy the chief part of the shield. One coat, from +centre window (see Fig. 1203, D), exhibits the bearings of a fess chequé +of four tracts, with a St. George’s cross in chief, being the arms of +the distinguished predecessor of Sir James Sandilands, Lord of +Torphichen, and St. John, viz., Sir Walter Lindsay, head of the Knights +of St. John of Jerusalem in Scotland, the cross having reference to the +badge of the order. + +The tracery in the large windows is well preserved, and is of a kind +usual in late work in Scotland, having curved bars without cusping +(Figs. 1200 and 1206). The round-headed doorway to the choir is +introduced in the central bay under the window, the lower part of which +is stepped up to allow of its introduction. + + + + +KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL, ABERDEEN. + + +The west end of this fine chapel, with its extremely picturesque tower +(Fig. 1207), fronts the main street of Old Aberdeen, and forms the +north-west corner of the college quadrangle. + +The chapel (Fig. 1208) is a long narrow building, with a three-sided +apsidal east end, measuring inside the walls about 122 feet 6 inches in +length by about 28 feet in width. It is divided into six bays by +projecting buttresses, and has a large window filled with mullions and +tracery in each bay on the north side, except the second one from the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1207.--King’s College Chapel. West End and Tower.] + +west, which contains a doorway. Similar large windows are continued +round the apse (but the centre one is built up), and there is also one +in the east bay of the south side. Over the west doorway there is a +large west window (see Fig. 1207) of four lights, with solid built +mullions and loop tracery enclosed within a round arch. All the other +large windows just referred to have pointed arches (except the second +from the east end on the north side), the tracery in those of the apse +and in each adjoining window being modern. The other four north windows +have, like the large west window, a solid built central mullion going +right up to the apex of the arch, and having each half filled with the +usual loop tracery. This mode of division of the tracery of a window by +a large central built mullion into two distinct portions, each filled +with its own tracery, is not uncommon in Scotland, as, for instance, at +Seton College, where, however, the mullion divides into two arches and +forms two pointed divisions in the arch-head. Besides the north doorway + +[Illustration: FIG. 1208.--King’s College Chapel. Plan.] + +already mentioned, there are two to the quadrangle and one in the west +end, all having elliptic arched tops. The mouldings of the west doorway +have bases, but no caps. The south side of the chapel (Fig. 1209) forms +a complete contrast to the north side. Instead of large windows +occupying each bay, small clerestory windows, with flat arch-heads, +occur at intervals along the top of the wall, while the lower part of +the wall is left plain, being doubtless intended as a provision for a +covered cloister walk. This, however, was never carried out, but instead +of it Bishop Stewart (1532-1545) erected a building against this side of +the chapel, consisting of two floors, and containing a library, a jewel +house, vestry, and class-rooms. These were taken down and re-erected on +the same site about 1725, and about fifty years afterwards were +destroyed by fire, when the south side of the chapel assumed its present +appearance, being “cased and buttressed with granite as we now see +it.”[118] Dr. Macpherson further tells us that the coats of arms which +now adorn this side of the chapel had been nearly all on the walls of +the library, and, having escaped the fire, were, along with some others, +inserted in the new granite work. These arms, along with many other +coats throughout the building and the college, have been minutely +described.[119] We need only mention here the arms of the founder of the +college, Bishop William Elphinston, which occur at the west end of the +south side of the chapel, viz., a chevron between three boars’ heads + +[Illustration: FIG. 1209.--King’s College Chapel. South Side.] + +erased, surmounted by a mitre between the initials W. E. and “at sides +O. B. A. D. MDXIV. Æ.S. LX (XX) IV.” The royal arms occur on the +northmost buttress of the west front of the tower, dated 1504, while +those of Margaret Tudor, wife of James IV., appear on another shield in +the west front. Adjoining the west doorway an inscription informs us +that the chapel was begun by James IV. in 1500. It apparently occupied +about + +[Illustration: FIG. 1210.--King’s College Chapel. Rood Screen.] + +six years in building, as the contract for covering it with lead is +dated 1506. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1211.--King’s College Chapel. Tower, from +South-East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1212.--King’s College Chapel. Upper Part of Tower.] + +The interior is divided by a wooden screen of very rich carved work, the +central portion of which (Fig. 1210) is about 9 feet 7 inches wide, with + +[Illustration: FIG. 1213.--King’s College Chapel. Plan of Crown.] + +double folding doors about 5 feet 9 inches wide by 7 feet 3 inches high. +The side portions of the screen within the choir form a continuation of +the canopied stalls occupying each side of the choir. Owing to the +circumstance of the nave having been fitted up as a library, the ancient +arrangement of the screen with its rood loft, ambone, and altars on the +nave side were destroyed. Dr. Macpherson, in the paper already referred +to, has by illustrations and description traced its original +construction, and to this the reader is referred. + +The tower at the south-west corner (Fig. 1211) is not quite square, +measuring over the walls about 29 feet from north to south, and about 4 +feet less from east to west. It has massive corner buttresses, with +numerous stepped intakes towards the top, similar to the buttresses of +the chapel, being a style of buttress of very frequent occurrence in +Scottish late churches, as, for example, at Stirling Church. The tower +is finished with one of the few crown steeples remaining in Scotland, +being, with that of St. Giles’, Edinburgh, and the Tolbooth, Glasgow, +the only three surviving of those which we could at one time boast. The +general style of the structure is very similar to that of St. Giles’, +but in this case there are only four arches thrown from the angles of +the tower to the central lantern (Fig. 1213), while in the case of St. +Giles’ there are eight, which produce a fuller and richer effect. The +tower (see Fig. 1211) is about 63 feet in height to the top of the +battlements. From that point to the base of the lantern pillars (Fig. +1212) is about 15 feet 9 inches, from whence to the top of the cross is +about 20 feet. The total height is thus about 99 feet.[120] + +The upper part of the steeple was blown down in a violent storm on 7th +February 1633. Spalding, under that date,[121] says:--“This hideous +winds was marked to be such, as the like had never been seen here in +these parts, for it would overturn countrymen’s houses to the ground, +and some persons suddenly smo’red within, without relief. It also threw +down the stately crown bigged of curious eslar work, off the steeple of +King’s College of Old Aberdeen, whilk was thereafter re-edified and +built up, little inferior to the first.” The part blown down was +probably only the lantern on the top of the four arches, the details of +this part having a decidedly Renaissance character, and being different +from the other parts of the tower. Doubtless the arches themselves would +suffer in the crash, and would require repairing and rebuilding in part, +which was evidently done, as the date 1634 is carved on the soffit of +the crossing. This difference of detail is interesting, as showing how +persistently these old designers wrought in the style of their time. +Although it is evident that the present lantern is not quite the same as +the original one, it must be admitted to be an extremely happy and +picturesque composition. + +In connection with the rebuilding Spalding mentions two names. First, +under the year 1640 he says:--“Dr. Gordon, medicinar, and one of the +founded members of the College of Old Aberdeen, and common procurator +thereof, departed this life upon the 10th of March, in his own house in +Old Aberdeen; a godly, grave, and learned man; singular in publick works +about the college, and putting up on the steeple thereof the stately and +glorious crown, which you see thereon, which was thrown down by the +wind.” Second, under the year 1642 he says:--“Saturday the 10th +September, George Thomson, Master Mason, new come frae Strathboggie to +Aberdeen, suddenly fell over Thomas Thomson’s stair, and with the fall +became speechless and senseless, and departed this life upon the +Thursday thereafter. An excellent mason, of singular device; he builded +sundry brave buildings; among the rest, he re-edified the steeple of the +College Kirk of Old Aberdeen.” It has been supposed[122] that Dr. Gordon +was the architect who designed the lantern, but the same claim might be +put forward for the then Bishop, for in Gordon’s description of Aberdeen +(p. 23) we are told--“Bot the crown was quicklie afterwards restored in +a better forme and condition, by the direction of Patrick Forbes of +Corse, then Bishop of Aberdeen.” It is quite as likely that Thomson was +both the architect and builder, and that the bishop and Dr. Gordon were +the men of affairs. + +The old lantern, which had stood for upwards of a century, appears to +have been neglected and to have fallen into a state of disrepair, as in +1620 the authorities ordained “that the heid of the gryt stepill sould +be mendit in steane leid and tymer as the samen was abefoir;”[123] but +evidently nothing was done, and so it yielded to the storm. + +Most of the windows on the west front of the tower appear to be modern. + +This tower, with its crown and most of the chapel, is built of +sandstone. + + + + +THE CHURCH OF THE MONASTERY OF THE CARMELITE FRIARS, SOUTH QUEENSFERRY. + + +Queensferry is a town on the south side of the Frith of Forth, at the +point where the water narrows and is spanned by the Forth Bridge. + +At the time the drawings of this church were made, about thirty years +ago, it was entire, as shown on the Plan (Fig. 1214), the nave only +being roofless; but a few years afterwards the nave was ruthlessly cast +down, and the materials were entirely destroyed. The transept and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1214.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Plan.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1215.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. View from +North.] + +choir, with the stone roof of the latter, were almost entirely hidden +from view beneath a dense mass of ivy; while the beautiful east end was +quite unapproachable owing to the incongruous surroundings. The + +[Illustration: FIG. 1216.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Crossing, from +Transept.] + +tower, the arches of which originally opened into the church being built +up, was used as a stable, while the transept was turned into a potato or +coal store and a huckster’s shop. The fortunes of the structure were at +the lowest ebb when, at the end of 1889, its renovation as a place of +worship was undertaken by the Dean and Chapter of St. Mary’s Cathedral, +Edinburgh, under the direction of Mr. J. Kinross, architect. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1217.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Interior of +Choir.] + +The church stands at the west end of Queensferry, on the north side of +the street, and the description of its situation in the oldest extant +charter relating to it, which is of the year 1457, is quite intelligible +at this time. James Dundas of Dundas grants “to God and the Virgine +Mary, and brethren of the Order of the Virgine Mary of Mount Carmel, +and their successors, a piece of ground lying in the town of the Ferry, +with the pertinents, with the yard and green adjacent to the church of +the Virgine Mary, and whole houses builded in form of a monastrie, as +also that other piece of ground lying betwixt the burn which runs near +the cross of the said town on the east parts [this burn can still be +identified where it comes down by the road immediately to the west of +the town house] and the highway [the present main street of Queensferry] +and ditch that goes towards Echline [a neighbouring farm, and still +known by this name] on the south parts, and the rivolute [still to be +seen] running from the town of Echline to the sea on the west, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1218.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Section through +Choir.] + +and the sea on the north parts.” The “houses builded in form of a +monastrie” have all disappeared, except a portion of the north wall, +seen in shadow in the accompanying view from the north (Fig. 1215). + +[Illustration: FIG. 1219.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. View from +South-West.] + +The monastic buildings were on the north side of the church, between it +and the sea. The above wall, which stands on the shore of the Frith of +Forth, at the distance of about forty paces northward from the church, +determines the width of the monastery from north to south, while its +length from east to west can also be fairly well ascertained. The +eastern buildings of the monastery occupied the position seen on the +left part of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1220.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Doorway in Nave +(now destroyed).] + +the church in the north view, between the point where the water tabling +ends and the small pointed window near the east end; and perhaps also +some of the old houses on the east occupy the sites of monastic +buildings. In like manner the western buildings in all likelihood +occupied the position of the old house seen on the right hand in the +same view. A covered cloister ran along the north side of the church, +the corbels for carrying its lean-to roof being still visible, as well +as the stone tabling for protecting the same. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1221. + +Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +Door in Choir.] + +The church is an aisleless structure 97 feet long by 30 feet 2 inches in +breadth over the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1222.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +East Window.] + +walls (see Fig. 1214). It has a south transept projecting 22 feet 9 +inches and 25 feet in width. The crossing is separated from the three +limbs of the church by projecting piers (Fig. 1216) carrying round +arches, above which rises the central tower. When the masonry which +blocked up the archway leading into the choir was lately taken down, it +was found that there had been a parapet about 3 feet high separating the +crossing from the choir. The responds of the massive parapet coping were +discovered wrought on the stones of the piers on either side. The choir +and crossing only have stone vaults. These are barrel vaults, as shown +in the view of the choir (Fig. 1217), where the vault is pointed, and in +the crossing (see Fig. 1216), where it is round and at right angles to +that of the choir, from which it is cut off and separated by the tower +arch. The springing of the tower arches is kept below that of the vault +over the crossing, as is usually done, in similar circumstances, in late +structures, so as to avoid the difficulties of groined vaulting. The +roof covering of the choir is of large overlapping stones, wrought after +the manner so often found in the castles and churches of the fifteenth +century. A wide gutter runs along the eaves (Fig. 1218), from which the +water escapes by numerous gargoyles. + +There was a pointed entrance door in the south wall (Figs. 1219 and +1220) at the west end of the nave, and leading into the choir there is a + +[Illustration: FIG. 1223.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +Window in Choir.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1224.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +West Window of Nave (now destroyed).] + +round-arched door (Fig. 1221), which is, however, lintelled in the +interior (see Fig. 1217). In the opposite wall a door leading to the +cloisters has the reverse arrangement, being round-arched in the inside +and lintelled on the exterior, where, on its west jamb, there is a +Maltese cross. A similar cross is visible on the west side of the +transept near the south end. There was a door into the cloisters from +the crossing (see Fig. 1215) and another existed from the nave. + +The windows of the choir (Figs. 1222 and 1223) are all pointed, and +filled with the simplest tracery. Those of the nave and transept (Figs. +1224 and 1225) have square heads formed of straight arches, as shown in +the detailed drawings. These windows have cusped tracery, which, in the +nave, remained entire to the last, while that of the transept window +(Fig. 1226) was destroyed, the tracery having been cleared out to make a +cart entrance; but sufficient indications existed to permit of its +restoration. There are various small cusped windows throughout the +church, including the small one already referred to in the north wall of +the choir, that window and a high straight headed one in the tower being +the only church windows in the north side. The two upper windows in the +east + +[Illustration: FIG. 1225.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Window in +Transept.] + +wall (Fig. 1227) serve, from their high position, to light the roof, +and, as seen from the interior (see Fig. 1217), they recall similar +features often found in the halls of castles, notably at Borthwick. On +the outside of the east end between these two smaller windows over the +large one there is a niche, which probably held a statue of the Virgin. +It is surrounded with various shields, the charges of which are effaced. +Above this, on the apex of the gable, there remains the corbelled base +of a belfry. The window in the tower above referred to is peculiar, as +will be seen from an enlarged sketch (Fig. 1228). It has a +deeply-splayed sill and lintel, with moulded jambs butting against them +at top and bottom. The piscina is shown in Fig. 1229, and the ambry and +sedilia are seen in the view of the choir (see Fig. 1217) and in the +enlarged drawings (Figs. 1230 and 1231). On either side of the choir +there is a row of large splayed corbels at the springing of the arched +roof, which seems to indicate that there was an upper room over the +choir. + +Over the tower vault at the crossing there is an upper vault containing +two floors, the exposed ruinous arch of which is seen in the view from +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1226.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Transept and +Tower, from South.] + +south (see Fig. 1226). These floors are reached by the wheel stair shown +on Plan. The intermediate floor, having been of timber, was supported on +stone corbels. In each room there is a fireplace in the south wall; the +one in the lower room is about 6 feet wide, and is suggestive of having +been used for a kitchen; and there can be no doubt (as will be seen from +the terms of a charter to be quoted) but that these rooms formed a +residence. From the lower room there is a square window (now built up) +looking into the choir. It is immediately under the vault, and measures +about 3 feet wide by 4 feet high, and had probably some kind of closing +shutter. The windows of these rooms are all square-headed, and +overlooked the monastery. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1227.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. East End.] + +The upper part of the tower is gone, but it was doubtless finished with +a cape-house and parapet walk, after the manner of termination so + +[Illustration: FIG. 1228.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +North Window in Tower.] + +frequent in Scotland in the castles of the fifteenth century, which were +contemporaneous with the monastery. The similar tower at Torphichen +Church, about eight miles distant, that of Dysart on the opposite shore, +and various other examples throughout the country are finished in the +same way. In the rocks on the shore adjoining there has been cut out a +haven for small boats, which is traditionally believed to have been the +work of the friars. + +This monastery and church were founded and endowed by the family of +Dundas of Dundas, it is believed, about the year 1330. The earliest +notice of it is about a century later, in a charter of confirmation +dated 1st October 1457, granted by Lord Seton, Baron of Winchburgh, of a +charter granted by James Dundas of Dundas, dated 6th March 1440, the +terms of which have already been quoted. The + +[Illustration: FIG. 1229.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +Piscina.] + +monastery existed for about two hundred and fifty years, and in 1585 +James VI. disponed to Sir Walter Dundas the whole revenue of the +establishment, “together with the kirk of the said place, and whole +bounds, with the steeple and houses above the same.” The place has ever +since remained in the possession of the same family. + +The present structure is evidently, from its style, of a late date. The +construction of the vaulting, with its low arches at the crossing, and +pointed vault covered with stone roof over the choir; the plain outline +of the tower and walls, without buttress or break of any kind; and the +square lintelled windows, are all indications of a date about the end of +the fifteenth or beginning of the sixteenth century. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1230.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +Ambry.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1231.--Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. + +Sedilia in Choir.] + + + + +ST. BOTHAN’S COLLEGIATE CHURCH, YESTER, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +A structure partly old and partly new, which stands beside the mansion +house of Yester, the seat of the Marquis of Tweeddale. Its position is +very fine, situated as it is by the side of a clear flowing stream, and +surrounded by splendidly wooded braes. + +The construction of the old part of the building, as seen in the +interior, is very massive and, considering its small dimensions, +imposing, and it remains in a good state of preservation. + +The edifice (Fig. 1232) consists of a choir and transepts. Of the nave +hardly anything exists, and there is nothing to indicate that it ever +was built. The present west wall is modern, probably of this century. +The choir measures, internally, 13 feet from east to west by 18 feet 6 +inches wide. The total length across the transepts is about 53 feet 6 +inches from north to south by 13 feet in width, all inside dimensions. +It will be observed that the nave and choir are not quite in the same +line. + +The crossing (Fig. 1233) is covered with a pointed barrel vault in +continuation of that of the choir, and is supported at the springing by +very massive low round arches, which span the entrance to each transept. +The choir vault is separated from the crossing by a late arch, supported +on pillasters of a Renaissance form, and it has been emphasised by +having ribs on the surface of the vault, as shown on the Plan by dotted +lines, but these do not now exist. The transepts are also vaulted with +plain pointed vaults carried to a considerable height, but cut off from +the crossing, as at Ladykirk and Queensferry, by the arches introduced +to carry the central vault of the crossing. As the church was without +buttresses, the walls are of considerable thickness (not less than 4 +feet) in order to resist the pressure of the arches. In the north wall +of the south transept, near the apex of the roof (see Fig. 1233), there +is a small door, now built up, which probably gave access to a small +chamber in the haunch of the vault over the crossing. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1232.--St. Bothan’s Collegiate Church. Plan.] + +In the east wall of the north transept there is a piscina (Fig. 1234), +enriched with carved crockets round the ogee arch. The basin is, as +usual, broken away. On one side of the arch is a shield, having a +smaller shield on the dexter side, bearing three inescutcheons, and on +the sinister side three cinquefoils, being the arms of Hay of Tweeddale. + +The piscina is 22½ inches wide, measuring over the enrichments, by 26 +inches high, and 3 feet 3 inches from the floor up to the level of the +basin. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1233.--St. Bothan’s Collegiate Church. From South +Transept.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1234.--St. Bothan’s Collegiate Church. Piscina.] + +There is an end window in each of the three limbs of the cross, and none +in the side walls. The windows in the transepts (Figs. 1235 and 1236), +although not entirely alike in their details, have a general resemblance +to each other. They are flat arched, and have mullions with a plain +space above, occupying the centre of the thickness of the wall. The +windows are of three lights, with circular tops fitted with cusping. The +space above the lights, usually occupied + +[Illustration: FIG. 1235.--St. Bothan’s Collegiate Church. Transept +Window (Exterior).] + +by tracery, is filled with solid masonry. The window in the east end +(Fig. 1237) is pointed, and is filled with tracery which has been +renewed, and is dated over the centre arch 1635. In the south transept +there is a simple monument of Renaissance character (see Fig. 1236), +which contains a fine shield with the Hay and Cockburn arms impaled--the +first a mullet between three inescutcheons and the initials W. H., and +the second a crescent between three cocks with the initials H. C. This +shield contains traces of colour, and on the frieze there are five +pateræ also in colour. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1236.--St. Bothan’s Collegiate Church. Monument in +South Transept.] + +An earlier church than that just described existed here, and was +dedicated to St. Bothan, after whom also the parish was named, until, on +the erection of the present mansion house, the baronial name of the +extensive domains of Yester superseded the old parochial name. + +In the ancient _Taxatio_ (1176) the Ecclesia de Bothani was rated at 30 +marks, and it is again referred to in Bagimont’s Roll (1275) as the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1237.--St. Bothan’s Collegiate Church. East End.] + +Præpositura de Bothans, and is rated at £40. The territory of Yester was +from the twelfth century in the possession of the family of Gifford, and +in 1418 it passed, by marriage, into the possession of Sir William Hay +of Locherwart, with whose descendants it still remains.[124] + +In 1421 Sir William founded the Collegiate Church of St. Bothan for a +provost, six prebendaries, and two singing boys. And he and his +successors endowed it with sufficient revenues. After the Reformation it +continued to be the parish church till 1708, when a new church was built +in the neighbouring village of Gifford. + + + + +PARISH CHURCH, STIRLING.[125] + + +This is one of the best preserved of the old churches of Scotland, and +although it has suffered severely by various renovations and +restorations, it is still a building of very considerable interest. The +church occupies a high situation on the Castle Hill, and as approached +up the steep streets, the lofty east end which first appears to view, +with its prominent buttresses and tall windows, has a most imposing and +picturesque effect.[126] The edifice consists of two divisions, the nave +and choir, which were built at two different periods. The nave, which is +the oldest part, is undoubtedly the church referred to in the +Chamberlain’s Accounts for the year from July 1413 to June 1414, in +which he “discharges himself of the issues of ayre held at Stirling, +because it was granted to the work of the parish church which had been +burnt.” Of the earlier church which had been burnt nothing now remains. +The date of the east end or choir is known to be between 1507 and 1520. + +The building (Fig. 1238) consists, from end to end, of a central nave +with north and south aisles (the aisles being vaulted in stone), an +eastern apse, and a western tower. The nave has five bays, the choir +three bays, and they are separated by a wide bay, which may be termed +the crossing. The crossing now serves as an entrance hall to the two +churches which are located in the edifice, walls being built across each +side of the crossing so as to enclose the choir as one church and the +nave as the other. The total internal length of the building, exclusive +of the apse and tower, is about 160 feet by about 55 feet in width; +including apse and tower the internal length is about 200 feet. + +The original entrance to the church was through the western tower, and +as the ground rises considerably towards the west, there must have been +steps down to the floor of the nave. The western doorway was destroyed +in 1818, when the sill of the window above was lowered into the space +occupied by the door arch, but the bases and lower part of the door +jambs still remain (Fig. 1239). The tower, which is vaulted, opens into +the nave (as at Linlithgow) through a lofty pointed arch, springing from +moulded responds (Fig. 1240). + +[Illustration: FIG. 1238.--Stirling Parish Church. Plan.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1239.--Stirling Parish Church. Tower, from +South-West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1240. + +Stirling Parish Church. + +Responds of Tower Arch.] + +The piers of the nave (with the exception of two) are round and massive +cylinders, and the east and west responds (Fig. 1241) are +semi-cylinders. The piers and responds have circular and delicately +carved and moulded capitals (see Fig. 1241), with but slight projection +or undercutting. The moulded bases, where not destroyed, are also round +and of slight projection, those of the responds terminating on +semi-octagonal plinths. The general appearance of these pillars +illustrates what is so often found in Scotland (both + +[Illustration: FIG. 1241.--Stirling Parish Church. + +West Respond of Nave Arcade.] + +in ecclesiastic and domestic work) during the fifteenth century and +onwards, viz., a tendency to imitate Norman and early pointed details. +This tendency is also seen in the nave piers of Dunkeld Cathedral, in +the piers and arches of the naves of Aberdour Church and Dysart Church, +in the imitation of first pointed work in the late cloisters of Melrose, +and many other examples which might be cited. But the later counterfeit +is never perfect, there being always some touch of contemporary design +which reveals the imitation. The two exceptional piers, above referred +to as not being cylindrical, are the fourth piers (Fig. 1242) from the +west end (Fig. 1243). These piers are composed of clustered shafts with +moulded capitals, the upper members of which do not follow the contour +of the piers, but sweep unbroken across the cap in the same manner as in +the caps in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1242.--Stirling Parish Church. + +Piers in Nave in Fourth Bay from West End.] + +the choir (Fig. 1244), and in those of the interior of the oriel windows +in the great hall of Stirling Castle adjoining (Fig. 1245), at +Torphichen, and other late churches; and in the capitals of the +clustered jambs of the hall fireplaces in many castles throughout the +country. It will be observed from Fig. 1243 that the nave aisles are +vaulted with groined arches, while the central nave has a wooden roof. + +The Plan (see Fig. 1238) shows that the two piers of the fifth bay from +the west end of the nave consist of a semi-round attached to a square. +These formed the west piers of the crossing. The next piers (the first +in the choir) are, like the last, of large size, and suggest that a + +[Illustration: FIG. 1243.--Stirling Parish Church. Interior of Nave from +North Aisle, looking West.] + +central tower was contemplated, if not built. There was, over the +crossing, an upper room known as the king’s room, from which the service +could be seen. It was destroyed about the middle of this century. The +room was reached by a wheel staircase in the north wall, where the door +leading to it is still to be seen. This staircase is now filled with the +chimney flues of a heating apparatus. The bay between the tower piers +is arched with round arches, which are now almost concealed, this part +of the church being occupied with modern staircases, vestries, and +gallery. A round arch also spanned the church between the eastmost of +the two piers of the crossing. The latter arch was taken down about the +year + +[Illustration: FIG. 1244.--Stirling Parish Church. Piers, Caps, and Arch +Mouldings in Choir.] 1869, thus destroying the room above, and the pier +was enlarged. From the enlarged part a pointed arch was thrown across, +thus sacrificing the beauty and fitness of the church, in order to +introduce a small gallery. About the same time the interior stone work +was, unfortunately, redressed. + +Fig. 1247, together with the view from south-west, above referred to, +gives some idea of the effect of the apse and the picturesque appearance +of the church as seen from the north-east. The south side of the +building + +[Illustration: FIG. 1245.--Stirling Castle. Oriel in Great Hall.] + +has been lamentably injured by a kind of great porch or transept erected +in the centre, which gives access to the two churches into which the +edifice is now divided. + +Of the building of the east end or choir interesting particulars are +given in the Register of Dunfermline. In the year 1507 an agreement was +entered into between James Beaton, Abbot of Dunfermline, and the Town +Council and community of Stirling, wherein it is stated that the latter +having “takin apon hand to big and compleitlie edifye, and end ane gud +and sufficient queyr conformand to the body of the peroch kirk of the +said burght,” they were to deliver to the abbot the “body” of the parish +church (that is the west end or nave) to be used by the Convent as a +“queir ay and quhill the said queyr now to be biggit, be fully and +compleitlie biggit and endit.” Under this arrangement the Convent was to + +[Illustration: FIG. 1246.--Stirling Parish Church. Interior of Choir.] + +pay £200 Scots, and to provide all the ornaments necessary for the high +altar and for the upholding of the same, and promised infeftment yearly + +[Illustration: FIG. 1247.--Stirling Parish Church. View from +North-East.] + +of 40s. Scots. On the other hand, the Council agree to uphold the queir +perpetually in all things “swa that the hie alter thair sall be honestly +and honourably uphalding in the said ornaments as thai resceve the +samyn thairto fra the said abbot and Convent.” By the year 1520 the work +appears to have proceeded so far that a service, by order of the Provost +and Bailies, was held in the choir, but it does not appear to have been +then quite finished, as in 1523 Robart Arnot, “Maister of the kirk +wark,” is ordered to make payment for timber for the queir.[127] The +choir (see Fig. 1247) consists of three bays with north and south +aisles, and an eastern apse of five sides. The latter is applied like an +oriel window to the east end of the church, somewhat in the same way as +the apse of St. Michael’s, Linlithgow. It is wider than the central +division of the choir, and fits on awkwardly to it, causing the two side +divisions of the apse to be lost to view when one looks from the west +end (see Fig. 1246). The vaulting of the apse is managed in a peculiar +manner, arches being introduced + +[Illustration: FIG. 1248.--Stirling Parish Church. Plan of Chapel of St. +Andrew.] + +on each side in order to bring the central space into a form as nearly a +parallelogram as possible, and thus enable it to be covered with a +pointed barrel vault, strengthened with small ribs.[128] The mullions of +the apse are treated somewhat like perpendicular work. + +The side aisles are vaulted with stone, and the tracery is modern. The +piers are of an ordinary late section (see Fig. 1244), and the details +recall the later work of St. Giles’, Edinburgh. The caps are of the +character of many late Scottish buildings, such as St. Giles’ and St. +Michael’s (choir), the abacus containing a number of straight members, +while the bed moulding breaks round the mouldings of the piers. The +small shreds + +[Illustration: FIG. 1249.--Stirling Parish Church. Interior of Chapel of +St. Andrew.] + +of foliage introduced are very peculiar. The bases also recall some of +the above buildings. There is no triforium, and the clerestory windows, +which are round-headed, are brought down to the string course +immediately over + +[Illustration: FIG. 1250.--Stirling Parish Church. + +South-East Corner of St. Andrew’s Chapel.] + +the arches of the main arcade. + +At the north-west corner of the church there was a small chapel (now +removed), with a wide opening into the church. It had a vaulted roof, +which abutted against the clerestory. Half buried in the ruins of this +chapel is the recess of what appears to have been a piscina. The chapel +is called Queen Margaret’s, and is supposed to have been built by James +IV. in honour of his queen. + +Another chapel dedicated to St. Andrew, at the north-east end of the +nave, is still entire. This chapel (Fig. 1248), which till within the +last + +[Illustration: FIG. 1251.--Stirling Parish Church. + +North Window of St. Andrew’s Chapel.] + +few months was private property, has been handed over to the keeping of +the authorities of Stirling, and is now, for the first time for many +years, if not centuries, made accessible to the public, so that drawings +of the interior can now be made. The partition which closed the access +to the chapel from the church still remains, and a door which was cut +through the east wall at the time the partition was put up is still in +use, but these alterations are not shown on the Plan (Fig. 1248).[129] + +The chapel measures about 15 feet 9 inches in length, and has a width of +about 12 feet from the north wall. Its height from the original floor +to the apex of the roof is about 15 feet 8 inches. It enters from the +church by a round + +[Illustration: FIG. 1252.--Stirling Parish Church. Section of North +Window of St. Andrew’s Chapel.] + +arched opening about 10 feet wide (Fig. 1249), with splayed and notched +jambs and arch, the jambs having a very simple moulded cap (Fig. 1250). + +[Illustration: FIG. 1253.--Stirling Parish Church. Details of St. +Andrew’s Chapel.] + +This opening is not in the centre of the chapel. There are a north and a +west window. The former (Fig. 1251) is pointed, and is divided by +mullions into three lights, and retains the original tracery. Fig. 1252 +shows the section of the mouldings of the arch and jambs. The window + +[Illustration: + +Durham of Mollet. Durham and Murray. + +FIG. 1254.--Stirling Parish Church. Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.] + +in the west wall is square lintelled, and has a straight sconsion arch +(see Fig. 1249). This chapel exhibits, in small space, three methods of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1255.--Stirling Parish Church. + +Founder’s Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.] + +covering an opening, the architect being apparently indifferent as to +which was used, so that it served the purpose. + +The chapel is groined in the ordinary manner, the masonry being, as +usual, very fine. The ribs are all of the same general section (Fig. +1253, A A), but each set is slightly different in size, the diagonals +being the largest. There are no wall ribs. The details of the carved +bosses at the intersections are shown in Fig. 1253, B. A stone bench +runs + +[Illustration: FIG. 1256.--Stirling Parish Church. + +Arms and Initials in St. Andrew’s Chapel.] + +along the west side only. + +There is a roughly formed square recess, about 12 inches wide (see Fig. +1248), in the north wall near the east end, and in the east wall at the +south-east corner (see Plan and Fig. 1250) there is an ogee-headed +recess, about 7 inches high by 5 inches wide and 2½ inches deep, at +about 3 feet 6 inches from the floor. There are recesses somewhat +similar to the latter at Paisley Abbey. + +St. Andrew’s Chapel was erected by Duncan Forrester of Garden, Knight, +whose initials are cut on the lintel of the west window (see Fig. 1253, +C), and his arms, together with a saltier for St. Andrew, are carved on +the centre boss (see Fig. 1253, B). The name of Duncan Forrester occurs +in charters + +[Illustration: FIG. 1257.--Stirling Parish Church. + +Details of Niche in St. Andrew’s Chapel.] + +relating to Stirling in 1479 and onwards for a period of forty years. He +was provost of the town of Stirling, and appears to have been a liberal +benefactor to this church. As shown on the Plan there are three +interesting grave slabs in the chapel. One of these, of the date 1584, +contains the arms of Durham of Grange (Fig. 1254); but as no member of +that family had A. D. as initials at that period, the monument may +probably have belonged + +[Illustration: FIG. 1258. + +Stirling Parish Church. Exterior Base.] + +to the Durhams of Mollet, one of whom, with the above initials, married +Eliz. Murray. This would correspond with the initials and lower shield +on the slab (see Fig. 1254) in which the Durham and Murray arms are +impaled. The adjoining slab exhibits six shields. One of these contains +the founder’s arms (Fig. 1255), and another a curious figure arranged +saltier-wise. Nothing can be determined as to the carving on the other +shields. The remaining slab contains the arms and initials of Duncan +Forrester (Fig. 1256), possibly the son of the founder, and the Erskine +arms with the initials M. E. A consecration cross is shown (see Fig. +1253), which is carved on the north wall of the chapel. + +In Fig. 1257 are shown detached portions of a niche, including the +canopy and corbel, lying on the floor. The exterior base of the church, +which is partly returned round the west side of this chapel, is shown in +Fig. 1258. + +There were north and south doorways to the nave, opposite each other, in +the second bay from the west. The south one had a large porch, now +destroyed. + +The tower, which is oblong in plan, measures about 31 feet from north to +south by about 22 feet from east to west, and, according to Mr. Ronalds, +it is 85 feet high to the top of the parapet, and 15 feet more to the +apex of the spirelet. It is quite evident that it has been built at two +periods. The lower part, judging from the window mouldings and what +remains of the base of the west door, is contemporary with the church, +or of early fifteenth century work. The upper part is contracted to +nearly a square of about 25 feet on Plan, there being a balcony on the +north and one on the south (see Fig. 1239). A turret stair in the +north-west corner gives access from the church to the top. This tower, +especially as seen from the west, is very picturesque, where the long +unbroken line of the stair turret contrasts beautifully with recessed +outlines of the other corner (see Fig. 1248). + +This tower is amongst the best specimens of the Scottish architecture of +the sixteenth century, as applied to ecclesiastical structures. + + + + +TULLIBARDINE CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +This edifice, which is unused, although in an almost perfect state of +preservation, is situated about six miles south from Crieff. It “was +founded in honour of our Blessed Saviour, for a provost and several +prebendaries, by Sir David Murray of Tullibardine, ancestor of the Duke +of Athol, in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1259.--Tullibardine Church. + +Arms of Sir David Murray in Chancel.] + +the year 1446.”[130] Sir David died the same year and was buried in the +church, where his arms (Fig. 1259) still remain on the interior of the +north side of the choir, quartered with those of his wife Isobel, second +daughter of Sir John Stewart of Innermeith and Lorn. The lady’s arms, it +will be observed, occupy the first and fourth quarters. + +This is one of the few collegiate churches in Scotland which were +entirely finished and still remain unaltered. It is of a cruciform plan +(Fig. 1260) and has a small western tower entering from the church by a +narrow doorway. The building measures internally from east to west along +the south side 62 feet 1½ inches, and along the north side 64 feet 6½ +inches by 18 feet 5½ inches in breadth, and the walls are 14 feet 3 +inches high from the floor to the wall head. The measurements over the +transepts are 64 feet 5 inches from north to south, by 15 feet 10 inches +in width (inside measure). The tower is a small apartment of 6 feet 11 +inches by 4 feet 9 inches. + +There are two entrances, one being at the west end of the south wall +(Fig. 1261). It is round-arched with a bead and hollow moulding and a +rude string cap. The other is a plain lintelled doorway in the north +transept. + +In each of the north and south walls of the transept there is a +traceried window, the one to the south (Fig. 1262) having three lights +and the other (Fig. 1263) two lights. The walls are of considerable +thickness, and the tracery is well recessed (Fig. 1264) and gives, in +consequence, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1260.--Tullibardine Church. Plan.] + +a massive and substantial appearance to the otherwise well designed +windows. + +The other windows are simple and such as are found in castles and minor +churches. That adjoining the entrance to the south transept is +interesting from having its sconsion arch (Fig. 1265) neatly constructed +so as to die away upon the splay. In the west gable there are two narrow +windows. The lintels of these, instead of being level, lie at the same +angle as the slope of the gable, and just a little below it (Fig. 1266). +A similar kind of window may be observed at Dunblane at the east end of +the room over the north aisle of the choir. The transepts each open from +the church by a segmental arch (see Fig. 1265), springing from splayed + +[Illustration: FIG. 1261.--Tullibardine Church. South Doorway.] + +responds, having moulded bases and caps (Fig. 1267). From the floor to +the top of the caps measures 8 feet 2 inches, and the arch has a rise +of 2 feet 10 inches, in a width of 11 feet 9½ inches. It is difficult +to say how the roof at this part was finished originally. The present +roof at the east end is of considerable antiquity, having timbers about +6 inches square, but the part resting on the transept arch is +comparatively modern. That it was not finished as it is now is almost +certain, as there appears to have been a gable over the arch, separating +the transept roofs from the main roof. + +There are several ambries in the church. The one at the east end of the +south wall is handsome (Fig. 1268), having a pointed ogee arched + +[Illustration: FIG. 1262.--Tullibardine Church. View from South-East.] + +head, with bead and hollow mouldings and bases wrought in the hollows. +In the east jamb of the south transept arch (see Plan and Fig. 1265) +there is a narrow arched recess about 6½ inches wide by 3½ inches in +depth. + +The east end of the church appears to have been covered with tapestry, +as the laths for attaching it to are still in position on the walls. At +the west wall and the end walls of the transepts the pieces securing the +feet of the rafters are brought down the walls flush with the face, and +would also afford facilities for hanging tapestry. + +A peculiar feature of the church is the rise of the floor at the west +end by two steps. The steps appear to be original, and may possibly be +in connection with a burial vault beneath. + +In the exterior of the north wall of the transept (see Fig. 1263) are +inserted two shields. The one over the doorway (Fig. 1269) contains the +arms of Murray of Tullibardine--three stars within a double tressure, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1263.--Tullibardine Church. North Transept.] + +flowered and counter-flowered. The other contains the arms of Sir +William Murray of Tullibardine (son of Sir David, the founder of the +College) impaled with those of his wife Margaret, daughter of Sir John +Colquhoun of Luss. On the skew stones (Fig. 1270), which are peculiarly +shaped, the star is frequently wrought. + +In the west wall of the tower there is a niche (Fig. 1271) with a +canopy and bracket. If it ever was adorned with a figure it is now +empty, and the figure has disappeared. Beneath the niche there is a + +[Illustration: FIG. 1264.--Tullibardine Church. North and South +Transepts.] + +small round opening, a kind of spy hole or shot hole from the tower, +which was doubtless a place of security. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1265.--Tullibardine Church. Interior, looking +South-East. + +We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson for assistance in connection with +this Sketch.] + + +[Illustration: FIG. 1266.--Tullibardine Church. + +Window in West Gable.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1267. + +Tullibardine Church. + +Jamb of Transept Arch.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1268.--Tullibardine Church. + +Ambry at East End of South Wall.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1269.--Tullibardine Church. + +Arms on Exterior of North Transept.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1270.--Tullibardine Church. + +Skew Stone.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1271. + +Tullibardine Church. + +Niche in Tower.] + + + + +COLLEGIATE CHURCH, MAYBOLE. + + +The ancient town of Maybole, which is situated on the side of a hill +about nine miles south from Ayr, was formerly the capital of Carrick, +and contained the castle of the Earl of Cassillis[131] and the town +houses of the lairds of the district. Being within two miles of +Crosraguel Abbey and having a collegiate establishment within the town, +the ecclesiastical + +[Illustration: FIG. 1272.--Maybole Collegiate Church. Plan.] + +element would not be wanting in the society of the place. At the +Reformation the house of the provost was the scene of a celebrated +debate between John Knox and Quentin Kennedy, Abbot of Crosraguel, in +September 1561. + +The college stands on gently sloping ground near the base of the hill on +which the town is situated, and is now enclosed within the streets. + +In 1371 a chapel was founded in Maybole by Sir John Kennedy of Dunure, +and endowed for one clerk and three chaplains. This was probably the +earliest foundation of the kind established in Scotland, but it had many +successors as collegiate churches in the following century. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1273.--Maybole Collegiate Church. View from +South-West.] + +In Abercrummie’s description of Carrick,[132] written in the end of the +seventeenth century, the collegiate church is mentioned as being still +entire, “being now used as the burial-place of the Earl of Cassillis, +and other gentlemen who contributed to the putting of a roofe upon it, +when it was decayed.” It is further mentioned that the “Colledge +consisted of a rector and three prebends, whose stalls are all of them +yet extant, save the rector’s.” + +The houses or “stalls” of the prebends are now all gone, and the church +is again roofless. The freestone has been taken away from many of the +buttresses, and the tracery of the windows is broken and most of the +windows built up. + +The church as it now stands (Fig. 1272) consists of a simple oblong 52 +feet long by 18 feet wide internally, but there are evidences of its +having been altered. There was a small sacristy on the north side, with +a good pointed doorway leading into the church. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1274.--Maybole Collegiate Church. Tracery in +Windows.] + +Both in the north and south walls (Fig. 1273) of the edifice there is a +very narrow pointed and cusped window, which does not correspond with +the other details of the building, and close to the narrow window in the +south wall there is a dressed corner, now built against, which seems to +indicate a complete change in the structure at this point. The east +window and the two windows adjoining it in the north and south sides +still retain part of their tracery (Fig. 1274), which is of a late +character. A recess with pointed arch-head for a tomb or an Easter +sepulchre in the north wall of the choir (Fig. 1275) contains mouldings +enriched with imitations of the dog-tooth, and the arches of the +south-west doorway (see Fig. 1273) have also similar dog-tooth +ornaments. The church having been founded in 1371, when the first +pointed period (to which the dog-tooth belongs) had long passed away, +there can be no doubt of the above ornaments being very late revivals, +even if the style of their execution did not make that apparent. + +The south-west doorway is, however, a good late _adaptation_ or +imitation of a thirteenth century design, like other imitations of early +work which were common during the third pointed period. The doorway is +surmounted by a shield bearing the Kennedy arms. + +The west end (see Fig. 1273) has a buttress in the centre, while in the +inside opposite it the recess of a built up window is observable (see +Plan), thus further indicating alteration. It seems probable that the +church was originally small, and the narrow windows, above referred to, +may possibly be remains of the original fabric. Then at a later date the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1275.--Maybole Collegiate Church. Interior of East +End.] + +structure was probably enlarged and partly rebuilt, when the enlarged +traceried windows, the recess in the choir, and the south-west +doorway--all of which are undoubtedly late--were introduced. This may +have occurred about A.D. 1500. The ruined sacristy still retains its +barrel vault (Fig. 1276). + +Abercrummie further says--“On the north syde of the kirk is the buriall +place of the laird of Colaine within ane enclosure of new square-stone +lately built.” This enclosure remains, and its architecture corresponds +with the date mentioned, viz., seventeenth century. The entrance doorway +(see Fig. 1276) is elaborate, but considerably decayed, and over + +[Illustration: FIG. 1276.--Maybole Collegiate Church. Doorway to Burial +Vault.] + +it a large shield bears the Kennedy arms, impaled with another. The +church itself is now used as a burial ground by certain families of the +name of Kennedy. + + + + +BIGGAR COLLEGIATE CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE. + + +The town of Biggar lies in a valley in the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, +through which communication is obtained between the upper reaches of the +Clyde and the Tweed. From an early period Biggar was a rectory in the +Deanery of Lanark. The parson of Biggar is mentioned in deeds of the +twelfth century, and several of the rectors held important appointments +at Court. + +In 1545 the Church of St. Nicholas was founded and endowed by Malcolm, +Lord Fleming, the Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. The charter of +foundation still exists. It was addressed by Lord Fleming to Cardinal +Beaton, and states that the church was to be erected in honour of the +Holy Trinity, the Blessed Virgin Mary, St. Nicholas the patron of +Biggar, and St. Ninian. The purpose of the foundation was to support a +provost, eight canons or prebendaries, four singing boys, and six poor +nuns, and the presentations and endowment of these officials were +reserved to the Lord Fleming. The special duties of the prebendaries +were as follow:--The first prebendary was to instruct the singing boys +in music, the second was to be master of the grammar school, the third +was to act as sacristan--to ring the bell, to light the tapers on the +four altars, and to attend to the vestments and ornament thereof--and +the fourth prebendary had charge of the poor nuns and gave them their +allowances. A hospital was to be provided for the poor nuns, and +suitable houses were to be erected for the provost and canons. + +During the progress of the work, Malcolm, Lord Fleming, died. The +building was carried on by his son, and scarcely completed before the +Reformation supervened to interrupt the work.[133] + +This church (Fig. 1277), like many of the collegiate edifices erected +prior to this time, is cruciform in plan, consisting of chancel with +apsidal east end, transept, and nave, with square tower over the +crossing. There are no aisles in any part of the church. + +It is supposed by Grose (who saw the building more than 100 years ago, +before it was restored) that the nave, which is built with whinstone +rubble work, was probably part of an original church which was enlarged +by Lord Fleming, by the addition of a transept and chancel. This may +have been the case, but the nave is now so completely altered and +modernised that it is impossible to say. The chancel, transept, and +tower + +[Illustration: FIG. 1277.--Biggar Collegiate Church. Plan.] + +over the crossing are evidently of a different period from the nave, +being all built with freestone ashlar. + +The total length of the structure internally is 112 feet by 20 feet + +[Illustration: FIG. 1278.--Biggar Collegiate Church. South Transept and +Tower.] + +4 inches in width, but about 24 feet have been cut off the west end of +the nave so as to form a lobby and staircase to a gallery and a vestry +at the west end. A south-west porch gives access to these places. +Formerly the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1279.--Biggar Collegiate Church. View from +South-East.] + +chapter house existed on the north side of the chancel, but it was +removed, and a new vestry is now erected in its place. + +The principal entrance into the collegiate church was by a round arched +doorway in the south wall of the transept (Fig. 1278), and it is +believed that there was also a door in the west end. A small wheel +staircase in the south-east angle of the north transept leads to the +roof and tower, and also to an organ gallery in the north transept. The +top of the stair turret, as seen in the view, is modern. + +The exterior, as viewed from the south-east (Fig. 1279), has a good + +[Illustration: FIG. 1280.--Biggar Collegiate Church. + +Details of Doorway in South Transept.] + +effect, with the square battlemented tower rising boldly above the +buttressed chancel and transept. The windows are all pointed and filled +with simple tracery, and the buttresses are of simple but good design, +having a broad water table on top, and no pinnacles. + +The windows are each set in a rectangular recess, which, although a +novelty, cannot be said to to be an improvement. It is in keeping with +the square forms of the Renaissance then being introduced. The arches +and jambs have triple splays. The doorway in the south transept is a +little more ornamental. The arch is round, as very usual in Scotland, +and there are two recessed arches, the inner one moulded and the outer +having enriched caps (Fig. 1280). + +The tower contains a room on the first floor with a fireplace, and over +it is the belfry. + +It is understood that the ancient roof was of oak, and that the timbers +in the chancel were gilt and emblazoned, doubtless with the arms of the +Flemings, who were buried there. + +The interior (Fig. 1281) has been greatly remodelled, but the principal +arches at the crossing are preserved. The roof being of timber, the +arches + +[Illustration: FIG. 1281.--Biggar Collegiate Church. Interior, looking +East.] + +of the transepts are carried well up, and the windows are also of good +size, so that the church is well lighted, and forms, in this respect, a +striking contrast to Ladykirk and similar vaulted structures. + +After the Reformation the offices and emoluments passed into the hands +of laymen. + + + + +CARNWATH CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE. + + +Carnwath is situated about two miles west from Carstairs Junction. + +The original foundation of this church dates from a very early time. In +the middle of the twelfth century it was bestowed by William de +Sumerville on Glasgow Cathedral, which grant was confirmed by Pope +Alexander III. in 1170. The existing building is, however, of much more +recent date. It formed the north wing of the parish church, and was +added after a Collegiate foundation had been erected in 1425 by Thomas, +first Lord Somerville, for a provost and six prebendaries, and is thus + +[Illustration: FIG. 1282.--Carnwath Church. Plan of North Transept.] + +described in the _Memoire of the Somervilles_, written about the end of +the seventeenth century:--“The yle itself is but little, however neatly +and conveniently built opposite the middle (on the North side) of the +church; all aisles, both within and without, haveing pinickles upon all +the corners, wherein are engraven, besydes other imagerie the armes of +the Somervills and Sinclaires (the family of the wife of the founder), +very discernable to the occular aspectione, albeit it be two hundereth +and fyfie-eight years since they were placed there.”[134] + +The parish church, which formerly consisted of chancel, nave, and +transept, has been removed, and there now only remains a portion of the +north transept, which has been used as the burial-place of the Lords +Carnwath-Somerville till the latter half of the seventeenth century, and +the Lockharts since then. + +The building (Fig. 1282) stands north and south, and measures about 25 +feet long by 22 feet 6 inches wide (externally). The style (Fig. 1283) + +[Illustration: FIG. 1283.--Carnwath Church. View from North-West.] + +is generally like that of the contemporary churches of Scotland; but the +large north window is remarkable from having a closer affinity than +usual with the English perpendicular. In order to carry the heavy stone +roof, shown in the sketch, the building is covered with a pointed barrel +vault such as is generally employed for this purpose; and, as frequently +happens, the vault is divided into bays, and is ornamented with +decorative ribs springing from shafts attached to the wall. Some of the +caps bear the arms of the founder and his spouse. The vaulting gives +rise to the massive buttresses employed, and to the depressed form of +the two-light square-headed side windows on each side, one of which is +seen in the sketch. + +The building having been restored, several new features have been added. +Thus the belfry on the south gable and the cross on the north gable are +modern. The north doorway under the large window is also an insertion, +but is believed to have been formed with the stones of the old doorway +of the church. The pinnacles referred to in the above quoted description +still exist (although partly restored), but the coats of arms on the +buttresses are no longer visible. The outline of the arch in the south +gable, which formerly opened from the transept into the church, can +still be traced (see Plan). + +The interior contains a fine altar-tomb, bearing the recumbent figures +of Hugh, Lord Somerville, who died in 1549, and his second wife, Janet, +daughter of William Maitland of Ledington, who died about 1550. Lord +Hugh was a great favourite of James V., who frequently visited him at +his Castle of Cowthally. + +In the churchyard of Carnwath there is another recumbent effigy, +apparently of older date, but its history is unknown. + + + + +CASTLE SEMPLE COLLEGIATE CHURCH, RENFREWSHIRE. + + +This somewhat remarkable structure stands in the midst of beautiful +woodland scenery, on a gentle acclivity above Lochwinnoch, near the +point at the north end where the Black Cart flows from the loch. + +A collegiate church was founded on this site, and endowed in 1504 + +[Illustration: FIG. 1284.--Castle Semple Collegiate Church. Plan.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1285.--Castle Semple Collegiate Church. View from +South-East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1286.--Castle Semple Collegiate Church. View from +North-West.] + +by John, first Lord Sempill, near his own residence of Castle Semple. +The establishment consisted of a provost, six chaplains, two boys, and a +sacristan. The church (Fig. 1284) measures within the walls 66 feet in +length by 19 feet in width. The building is a simple oblong, terminating +toward the east in a three-sided apse, and having a square tower +projecting from the centre of the west wall. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1287.--Castle Semple Collegiate Church. Monument to +John, Lord Sempill.] + +The style of the east end (Fig. 1285) is very remarkable. The forms of +the double windows indicate plainly that they are very late survivals of +spurious Gothic work, and a close examination of the building tends to +confirm this view. The other windows in the side walls have been greatly +altered, but they do not present any features at all like those of the +apse. Over the door to the chancel are two coats of arms with the +letters R. L. S. and A. M. S., the dexter shield bearing the Sempill +arms and the sinister the Montgomerie. The square tower at the west end +(Fig. 1286) is extremely simple, and has no analogy with the work at the +east end. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1288. + +Castle Semple Collegiate Church. + +Slab to Gabriel Sempill.] + +There can be little doubt that the tower and most of the side walls are +of about the date of the original foundation, while the east apse has +been added in the sixteenth century, to receive the monument of John, +Lord Sempill, who fell at Flodden in 1513. A few remains of the original +square-headed windows in the side walls are still traceable. + +The interior has, within recent times, been divided by two solid walls +into three compartments, so as to form separate private burial-places, +and this operation seems to have caused the further alteration and +building up of the side windows. + +In the eastern compartment stands, against the north wall, the large +monument to Lord Sempill (Fig. 1287), which bears the following +inscription:-- + +· · · JOHN · LORD · SEMPIL ANDE · HIS · LAYDI · D · · · MARGARITA · · · + +It must have been erected after 1513, and shows the last expiring effort +of the Gothic decorative spirit. The cusped half-arch half-lintel is a +kind of compromise between the Gothic and Renaissance, and the exuberant +foliage of the upper portion shows late Gothic forms run wild. + +The architecture of the apse windows corresponds in extravagance with +that of the monument. + +A monumental slab in the central compartment (Fig. 1288) is erected in +memory of “Gabriel Sempel,” who died in 1587. This shows the style + +[Illustration: FIG. 1289.--Castle Semple Collegiate Church. + +Carved Stone.] + +of lettering which was in use about that time, together with the Sempill +arms. + +A carved stone (Fig. 1289) (from a sketch by Mr. William Galloway), +which seems to have been the socket of a cross, stands in the building, +and was perhaps used at one time as a font. It is octagonal in form, and +has an oblong sinking in the centre. + + + + +GREYFRIARS’ CHURCH,[135] ELGIN. + + +The mendicant orders were introduced into Scotland by Alexander II. +(1214-49), who is stated to have founded eight convents for Dominicans, +but only two for Franciscans. From an old undated charter it is believed +that the latter order was established in Elgin under Alexander III., but +their original monastery appears to have fallen into decay. It was, +however, revived under James I. (1424-37) for the order of Observantines +introduced into Scotland by that king. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1290.--Greyfriars’ Church, Elgin. Plan.] + +Their first convent was in Edinburgh, where these friars were +established in 1446. This convent was followed by one in St. Andrews, +and a third house was settled at Aberdeen in 1450. The order then +extended to Elgin, where it was introduced by John Innes, a member of a +well-known Morayshire family, in 1479. The Franciscans, having no +rentals to be taxed and no lands to alienate, probably fled when the +Reformation came. Their convent was plundered by Montrose, but the +church was not demolished, and still stands with its four walls +complete, though sadly damaged. The domestic buildings have been +obliterated or converted to modern uses. + +The church (Fig. 1290) is a simple oblong structure, 110 feet in length +by 22 feet in width internally. It had an entrance door for the public +in the north wall, near the west end. From the marks in the wall above +it (Fig. 1291) there seems to have been a wooden porch or awning over +the doorway. + +The church has been well lighted with large traceried windows (see Fig. +1291) in the east and west end walls, and with six side windows in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1291.--Greyfriars’ Church, Elgin. View from +North-West.] + +the north wall and one in the south wall. Each of the end windows had +three mullions with intersecting tracery in the arch, and the side +windows were all divided into two lights by a central mullion, with two +curved divisions in the arch. Near the centre of the building, and on +both sides, there occur two small windows, one over the other, the lower +one being single with ogee head, and the upper one having a central +mullion. These windows have evidently been for the purpose of lighting +the rood screen and loft. The lower windows would light the space under +the rood loft, where there was no doubt an altar, and the upper windows +the gallery or space over the screen. The corbels which carried the loft +can still be traced on both sides of the church. A piscina in each of +the side walls, close to the screen, shows that there were altars +placed against it. In the north window, adjoining the screen, there is a +stone sink, probably used by the priests as a lavatory. At the east end +of the church there is an ambry in each of the side walls, and a window +in the south wall to light the sanctuary. Under it is a recess, probably +used as a sedilia. The conventual buildings have evidently been built to +the south of the church. The junctions of four walls forming buildings +on two sides of a courtyard still remain, and in the south wall of the +church, between the above, may be observed the corbels which carried the +roof of the cloister walk. There are also two doors from this side into +the church. The structure is of a plain and simple style, corresponding +to the character of the mendicant friars who occupied it. It was +doubtless erected soon after the Observantines were introduced in 1479, +and bears the character of the architecture of the period. + +After the Reformation the church was no longer used for service. +Criminal Courts sat in it till the middle of the seventeenth century, +and it also served as a place of meeting of the crafts or trades in +Elgin. Afterwards it became a place for Episcopal services, and it is +now the property of the Convent of St. Mary of Mercy. + + + + +GREYFRIARS’ CHURCH, ABERDEEN. + + +This structure, which took the place of an older one, was built by the +well-known prelate Bishop Gavin Dunbar[136] at his own expense, between +the years 1518 and 1532. Its architect was Alexander Galloway, parson + +[Illustration: FIG. 1292.--Greyfriars’ Church, Aberdeen. Plan.] + +of Kinkell, a well-known Churchman, who is specially referred to in the +description of the later church. This church was dedicated to the +Virgin. At the Reformation it was bestowed on Marischal College, and +was thereafter known as the College Kirk. It was at first an oblong +structure (Fig. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1293.--Greyfriars’ Church, Aberdeen. View from +South-West.] + +1292)[137] with massive buttresses, but in 1768 the north projection was +built, and the length of the church was reduced by 20 feet,[138] and +probably + +[Illustration: FIG. 1294.--Greyfriars’ Church, Aberdeen. South +Elevation.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1295.--Greyfriars’ Church, Aberdeen. + +Carved Bench End.] + +the west end (shown in Fig. 1293) was then erected. There was formerly a +spire or steeple, probably at the west end. The church now extends to +six bays in the length (Fig. 1294), divided by buttresses, and having a +pointed window in each bay. It is fitted up with galleries in the most +incongruous style, but has several good examples of carved bench ends +and other wood-work (Fig. 1295). + +The chief feature of the building is the east end (Figs. 1296 and 1297), +with its immense window, one of the largest examples of tracery now +remaining in Scotland. It is divided into seven lights, and although it +is of the simplest design, being merely a series of intersecting arches, +an agreeable variety is obtained by stopping several of the bars near +the top from running their full course, and thus obtaining larger +openings, which contrast with the others of smaller size. A similar kind +of design was very frequent in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1296.--Greyfriars’ Church, Aberdeen. + +Window in East End.] + +late work in Scotland, but none of the other examples possess the size +and elegance of this one. The delicate detail of its slightly arched +transome is noteworthy. The buttresses (see Fig. 1297) also are of a +good form; indeed, it is remarkable, considering its lateness, how pure +and simple the details are. + +In the process of extending the college, it was contemplated to +demolish this church, but fortunately, we believe, that intention has +been abandoned. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1297.--Greyfriars’ Church, Aberdeen. East Wall and +Window.] + + + + +THE PRIORY CHURCH OF ST. CLEMENT, ROWDIL, HARRIS, INVERNESS-SHIRE. + + +Amongst the numerous remains of ancient ecclesiastical structures still +surviving in the Western Isles, the Church of St. Clement, situated near +the south point of Harris, holds a prominent place, being one of the +very few ancient structures in that region which are not ruinous, and +are still in use for public worship. + +The origin of the church is uncertain, but it is supposed to have been +originally founded by an emissary from Iona, and to have fallen into +decay during the occupation of the Norsemen. It is thought that the +necessities of the monastery, thus arising, were probably relieved by +David I. “from the revenues of the newly instituted Abbey of Holyrood +House,” and that this may have given the monks of the latter the claim +to St. Clement’s, which they afterwards substantiated.[139] + +It is agreed amongst writers on the subject[140] that the church was +restored or rebuilt by Sir Alexander M‘Leod, Rector of Harris, who seems +to have used the materials of an older building in the restoration. This +is evident from the random manner in which some carved figures are built +into the walls of the west tower. + +Mr. Ross points out that Alaster Crotach or Humpback had, in 1498, a +charter from King James IV. for the hereditary lands of Ardmanich, &c., +and that he was succeeded by his son William, who died in 1553. + +The _Old Statistical Account_ informs us that the church was repaired by +the said Alexander M‘Leod, who died (as the inscription on his tomb in +the church bears) in 1527. + +Of the domestic buildings of the priory not a stone now remains. The +church was burnt and was repaired in “1784 by the late patriotic Alex. +M‘Leod, Esq., of Harris. After the church was roofed and slated, and the +materials for furnishing it within laid up in it to a considerable +value, it unfortunately took fire at night through the carelessness of +the carpenters, who had left a live coal in it among the timbers. So +zealous, however, was this friend of religion and mankind in his design +of repairing it, that by his orders and at his expense it was soon after +this accident roofed, and it is now [1794], though left unfinished since +the time of his death, used as one of the principal places in the parish +for celebrating divine service.” + +The church was again repaired in 1787. About 1866 it had once more +become dilapidated, and was repaired under the supervision of Mr. +Alexander Ross, architect, Inverness, to whose kindness we are indebted +for permission to use the description and illustrations in his + +[Illustration: FIG. 1298.--Priory Church of St. Clement. Plan.] + +article on St. Clement’s in the _Proceedings of the Society of +Antiquaries of Scotland_, above referred to. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1299.--Priory Church of St. Clement. View from +South-East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1300.--Priory Church of St. Clement. Interior of +South Side.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1301.--Priory Church of St. Clement. Interior of +North Side.] + +The building is chiefly remarkable from containing an elaborately +sculptured monument to Alexander M‘Leod of Dunvegan or Harris. + +The structure (Fig. 1298) is small and is cruciform in plan. It has a +square tower at the west end, the full width of the nave, which is +founded on a rock at a higher level than the nave (Fig. 1299). + +The choir is not architecturally distinguished from the nave, and the +whole building is 61 feet in length (internally) by 15 feet in width. + +It has a square east end, and is lighted by a large traceried east +window, and by two small windows in the side walls. The former is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1302.--Priory Church of St. Clement. Responds and +Mouldings at Entrance to Transepts.] + +pointed, and is divided by two mullions into three lights. The tracery +in the arch-head consists of a circle divided by six radiating bars. + +The church (Fig. 1300) has two square-headed windows and two pointed +windows in the south wall, and one square and one round-headed window in +the north wall (Fig. 1301), and the entrance doorway, which is in the +north wall, is also square lintelled. + +The transept consists of a north and south chapel, which are not exactly +opposite one another. They have square-headed windows in the north, +south, and east walls. Each chapel is entered from the nave by a moulded +and pointed arch (see Figs. 1300 and 1301) springing from responds. The +latter have both in their section and caps (Fig. 1302) a certain +resemblance to Norman work. As pointed out by Mr. Muir, the details +indicate the second pointed period, “though, as in the mouldings at +Iona, the adoption of forms resembling Norman and first pointed has +given to it an appearance of greater antiquity.” + +[Illustration: FIG. 1303.--Priory Church of St. Clement. Monument in +Choir (East of South Transept).] + +The monuments are the most remarkable features in the building. These +are three in number, two of them being placed against the south wall, +one in the choir and one in the nave (see Fig. 1300) on either side of +the arch leading into the south transept. The third monument is at the +south end of the south transept. + +The monument in the choir is the most elaborate, being specially rich +in sculpture. Its form (Fig. 1303) is peculiar, having, in addition to +the usual recessed arch, a sloping gable-shaped moulding, which encloses +the design on top, and is continued perpendicularly down each side. The +space between the arch and the enclosing moulding is divided into nine +panels, each containing a distinct carving of figures. That in the apex +represents God the Father, holding between his knees a cross bearing a +figure of the Crucifixion. Each of the panels at the sides contains one +or two figures of angels waving censers, and saints holding scrolls. The +wall + +[Illustration: FIG. 1304.--Priory Church of St. Clement. Effigy of +Alexander M‘Leod of Harris.]v + +at the back of the arch is also divided into panels, containing +sculptures in three rows. In the upper row the panels comprise angels +censing with a star in the centre, and at each side an angel holding a +candle. In the central row the chief panel contains the Virgin and +Child, supported by a bishop or abbot on each side, one of whom holds a +skull. These figures are each enclosed in a Gothic canopy. The left +panel shows the faint outline of a castle, and that on the right a +galley (the M‘Leod arms). The third row exhibits several panels. That on +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1305.--Priory Church of St. Clement. + +Effigy in South Transept.] + +left is a hunting scene, a knight with sword and spear, followed by +attendants holding dogs in leash. The next panel contains three stags, +well carved. To the right of this is a panel representing an angel +holding up a pair of scales to weigh the souls of the departed, in which +process he is interfered with by a demon. A similar scene is carved on +one of the pier caps in the choir of Iona Cathedral (see Fig. 985). + +To the right is a long panel containing the following inscription in +Gothic letters:-- + +HIC · LOCULUS · CŌPOSUIT · · · · ALLEXĀDER · FILIUS · VILM̄I · MAC · +CLOD · DN̄O · DE · DŪVEGAN · ANNO · DN̄I · Mº · CCCCCº · XXVIIIº + +The meaning of this apparently is that Alexander, son of William MacLeod +of Dunvegan, made this tomb A.D. 1528. + +On the pedestal under the arch lies the effigy of the said Alexander +M‘Leod of Dunvegan (Fig. 1304), clad in full armour, and holding a long +sword with cross hilt. The effigy is unfortunately much decayed. The +head rests on a pillow with an animal above, and the feet rest on a +lion. At the side of the monument a lion encloses the tomb. + +The style of the carving and the subjects represented recall the +sculptures at Iona. The figures of the abbot and bishop are similar in +style to that of the abbess at the Iona Nunnery, and the scene of the +angel weighing souls with a demon interfering occurs on one of the caps +in the Iona + +[Illustration: FIG. 1306.--Priory Church of St. Clement. East +Elevation.] + +choir. The division of the flat surfaces into panels, each containing a +separate subject, is characteristic of Celtic decoration. The hunting +scene and the ship are also common in Celtic work. The peculiar Celtic +foliage of Iona is here wanting. Enough, however, exists to associate +the style of the work with that of the rest of the Western Isles, while +the Gothic influence is also very distinct. + +The date is fixed by the inscription, and the introduction of the +nail-head ornament shows the revival here, as at Iona, of earlier forms, +as above pointed out by Mr. Muir. + +The tomb in the recessed arch to the west of the south transept is of +much simpler design than the corresponding one to the east above +described. It consists (see Fig. 1300) of a semicircular moulded arch +with a hood moulding stopped on carved corbels at each end. Over the +upper part of the hood a triangular space is enclosed with a moulding, +finished at the apex with a fleur-de-lys. This triangular space contains +an oblong panel, much decayed, exhibiting the Crucifixion, with a figure +on each side. The effigy “represents a man in armour with high peaked +bassinet and camail over a habergeon reaching to the knee. The nature of +the defences of the feet and legs is not indicated. He holds a long, +straight, cross-hilted sword in front, the pommel reaching to the +breast, and the point placed between the feet. A dagger hangs at his +left side, but the military belt is wanting.”[141] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1307.--Priory Church of St. Clement. North-East +Elevation.] + +The third tomb is at the end of the south transept. The effigy (Fig. +1305) is somewhat similar to the last described, but is much wasted by +exposure. + +A remarkable recessed tomb having some analogy with those at Rowdil is +described and figured in a paper by Professor Norman Macpherson in the +_Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. XII. p. +583. It consists of a plain round arch in the north wall of the ruined +Church of St. Donan in the island of Eigg. In the wall at the back of +the recess is a large square panel containing sculptures, which “afford +an interesting example of Celtic notions of heraldry.” These sculptures +appear to represent the Clanranald shield, having in the place of the +first quarter a hand grasping a cross, in the second what appears + +[Illustration: FIG. 1308.--Priory Church of St. Clement. + +Figure, &c., in West Elevation.] + +to be a lion, in the third a galley, and in the fourth a castle. A tree, +like a laurel, springs from the base and stretches to the top, with a +bird on the highest branch. + +The external appearance of St. Clement’s is shown by Fig. 1299 and by +the elevations (Figs. 1306 and 1307). The latter also show the tower and +the peculiar carved heads and other figures, above alluded to, as +probable insertions from an older structure. Fig. 1308 shows the small +figure of a saint, inserted over the cabled string course on the west +side of the tower, and the narrow cusped window above it. The north +elevation (see Fig. 1307) and the sections (see Figs. 1300 and 1301) +explain the mode in which the tower is built upon a higher level than +the church. + + + + +ORONSAY PRIORY,[142] ARGYLLSHIRE. + + +Notwithstanding the very numerous small churches and chapels found in +the Western Isles,[143] there are comparatively few remains of +monasteries. The original Celtic religious establishments were, +doubtless, monastic in their form and structure, but of convents in the +later sense, corresponding with those so common on the mainland, few +traces are now to be seen. Next to the great Abbey of the Isles at Iona +and the nunnery on the same island, the largest monastic establishment +in the Western Isles of which the structures survive is the Priory of +Oronsay. + +This island lies about ten miles west from Jura, and can be most +conveniently reached from Portaskaig, in Islay. The isle is about two +and three-quarter miles broad from east to west by about two miles from +north to south. It stands at the south end of the larger island of +Colonsay, from which it is separated by a narrow channel, dry at low +tide. + +It is traditionally narrated that St. Columba and his companion, St. +Oran, landed on Oronsay after leaving Ireland; but finding that the +latter country could still be seen from the highest point of the island, +they forsook it and sailed to Iona. St. Oran, however, gave his name to +the island, and, together with Colonsay, it seems, from the numerous +remains of churches which once existed on these islands, to have been a +sacred locality, the remains of nine old churches and the sites of three +more--ten in Colonsay and two in Oronsay--being still traceable. The +most important appears to have been the Monastery of Kiloran, in +Colonsay, of which no remains now exist. Next to it was the Priory of +Oronsay. This priory of Canons Regular of St. Augustine appears to have +been founded in the fourteenth century by the Lord of the Isles as a +cell of the Abbey of Holyrood at Edinburgh. + +The priory is situated at the extreme west end of the island, on the +lowermost slope of the _Beinn Oronsay_, just short of the point where +its rugged cliffs front the Atlantic. + +The general arrangement of the buildings (Fig. 1309) is peculiar. The +ground slopes rapidly from north to south, necessarily carrying the +drainage with it; yet, contrary to the usual custom, the cloisters and +residential buildings were placed to the north of the church. Exclusive +of projections at the north-east and south-west angles, and a mortuary +chapel on the south, the structures occupy a parallelogram about 87 feet +from north to south, by 65 feet from east to west. The latter length is +also that of the church proper, which occupies the south side of the +square, but has at the west end a narthex about 15 feet square +internally, which projects beyond the general range of the buildings. +The walls of the narthex are now level with those of the church, but as +there are roughly hewn corbel stones for carrying a floor overhead, it +is probable this is only the lower stage of a bell-tower, of which the +upper part has been long since demolished. The greater thickness of the +walls and two sadly injured freestone buttresses on its south face (Fig. +1310) favour this idea. Entrance is obtained by a doorway with a plain +pointed freestone arch, having a hood moulding close to the westmost +buttress (see Fig 1310). The church is, internally, nearly 18 feet in +width; and at the right hand, on entering, there remains the solid +foundation of a stone stair leading to a tribune or organ gallery, +recesses for the ends of massive beams to carry it being still visible, +together with rough rubble corbelling on either side. + +On the left is a narrow doorway, neatly formed with thin schist stones, +leading to the cloisters. Internally the church is entirely devoid of +architectural decoration, but an extensive range of stalls, of which +traces still exist, and other wood-work, including an open roof, must +have redeemed an otherwise bald interior, into which very little light +can have been admitted. The principal source of light was a 5 feet wide +window at the east end (Fig. 1311), divided by mullions into three +lanciform lights, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1309.--Oronsay Priory. Plan.] + +the pointed arch-heads of which run up to the main arch. The other +gable, seen on the right in Fig. 1311, is modern, and forms the entrance +porch to what may have formerly been the chapter house, but which has +been appropriated, in recent times, as a burial-place by the proprietor +of the island. Apart from this there were only three windows in the +nave, two very small, and another rather longer with a cusped head, all +formed in freestone, and on the extreme east end of the south wall near +the altar a square-headed window with slab lintel and sill. Between +these windows a + +[Illustration: FIG. 1310.--Oronsay Priory. Cross and South Side of +Narthex and Church.] + +plain schist doorway gives access to the mortuary chapel of the +M‘Duffies or M‘Fies, which is about 25 feet long by 12 feet wide over +the walls. These are unbonded into the south wall of the church, and +were covered with a plain lean-to roof, in which there was evidently a +priest’s apartment. The chapel is lit from the south by two small +windows, and in a recess on the north side is the burial-place of Abbot +M‘Duffie, covered with a carved slab representing the abbot fully +vested, with his right hand raised in benediction, and a pastoral staff +in his left. Pennant says:--“In the same place is a stone enriched with +foliage, a stag surrounded with dogs, and a ship with full sail; round +which is inscribed ‘Hic jacet + +[Illustration: FIG. 1311.--Oronsay Priory. East End of Church.] + +Murchardus Macdufie de Collonsa An. Do. 1539 Meuse Mart Ora me ille, +Ammen.’”[144] Beyond this chapel, at the south-east angle of the church, +is a singularly massive buttress, at the bottom of which, on the level +of the floor and accessible by a narrow opening from the interior of the +church, is a curious ambry about 3 feet cube, strongly lintelled +overhead, and designed, no doubt, for the safe keeping of the church +treasure, but is now desecrated as a “bone-hole.” The altar still +remains built of freestone, evidently reused from some previous +building. + +On the north side of the chancel the arrangement is very peculiar. An +opening about 8 feet wide, with a plain pointed freestone arch (Fig. +1312) resting on schist impost caps, gives access to a kind of trance or +passage, having an ambry at the ground level on the left and a blocked +up window on the right. It is formed between the north wall of the +church and the south end of the chapter house, which is gabled +independently of the church. Its only apparent use may have been as a +sacristy. It is roofed in by large flat stones, with a rapid slope to +the east. The east range of buildings is pretty complete, except on the +north, where the gable fell some years ago. On the ground floor a large +apartment, 19 feet 6 inches long by 15 feet 4 inches wide, with a +doorway entering on the east cloister walk, was no doubt the chapter +house. + +The range of domestic buildings on the north has been sadly ruined, this +having been the point where entry was obtained, in recent times, for the +removal of materials, and thus of the north and south walls only +fragments remain. A massive wall, still happily intact, encloses the +cloister on the west. The internal area is rather over 41 feet square, +with cloister walks about 7 feet broad, and the arcading presents some +very singular features. The south arcade (Fig. 1313), which is evidently +the most ancient, is composed of five low narrow arches with circular +heads, very neatly turned with thin schist slabs, without any freestone +or architectural dressing of any kind. The other three arcades were +evidently part of a later restoration, and the peculiar form in which +they were constructed is evidently due to the nature of the materials +employed, viz., schist slabs of the same quality as that used for the +sculptured slabs. + +When Martin visited the island in the latter part of the seventeenth +century, the three arcades and the enclosing walls were quite complete. +A century later, in 1772, Pennant found the north arcade demolished with +the exception of the end arches, while the east and west arcades +remained intact. These subsequently disappeared also, and it was not +until 1883 that Mr. Galloway found, scattered throughout the church and +churchyard, sufficient materials to complete the restoration of one +arcade. This was accordingly done on the west side (see Fig. 1313) in +that year. Amongst the shafts and “pillars” found there were happily +both of those mentioned by Martin as bearing inscriptions. The hewn work +of these arcades was formed entirely of the peculiar kind of schist used +in the sculptured crosses and memorial stones in the Western Highlands, +and it may have been the facility of obtaining this material in the +slab, rather than the cube form, which determined the special character +of the arcading. Each arcade had openings or arches nearly 30 inches +from centre to centre, there being seven in the east and west arcades, +and probably one or two more in the north arcade. They were built with +slab shafts, averaging 2 feet 10 inches high by 1 foot broad, and 2 or 3 +inches thick, with neatly moulded and socketed caps and bases. On these + +[Illustration: FIG. 1312.--Oronsay Priory. Arch on West Side of +Church.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1313.--Oronsay Priory. South and West Arcades of +Cloister.] + +there rested the slabs, shaped at each end so as to meet exactly in the +middle, thus forming a straight lined arch, and the haunches were filled +up with rubble. With this both Martin’s and Pennant’s descriptions +exactly agree. + +The north range of the buildings, which no doubt contained the refectory +and dormitories, has been too much dilapidated to admit of any +intelligible description. In a line with it, however, and extending +eastward beyond the priory square (see Plan), there is a small chapel of +very early character, built entirely in rubble, without any freestone +dressings. It is 17 feet over the walls and 33 feet in breadth; but for +no apparent reason the west gable is slewed round to the south, making +an inequality of 2 feet in the length of the sides. There has been a +wide window in the east gable, but owing to the demolition of the wall +its character cannot be judged. There are two small windows in the north +side and one in the south, mere slits with no provisions for frames or +glazing. There is an entrance doorway on the south side at the west end +and a priest’s door at the east. On the north side there is a very small +door nearly opposite that of the entrance on the south. + +The foundations of the altar still remain, and a line of stones still +indicates the position of the chancel rail. The base of the pulpit +remains on the north side, and at the west end there has been a tribune +or organ gallery, which has been accessible by a door in the east gable +of the priory buildings. In this gable, on the ground floor, an archway +has been formed 6 feet 8 inches in width, with a plain pointed rubble +arch, which seems to have been subsequently filled in, and a +square-headed doorway of much smaller size substituted. + +Immediately to the north of this chapel, and separated from it by an 8 +foot wide passage, is a most interesting example of a monastic barn and +byre, 39 feet in length by 22 feet in breadth. It is an excellent +specimen of rubble building with freestone dressings to the windows, +&c., in the same style as the church, and may be coeval with the later +restoration. The windows are small, and on the north side close to the +ground are openings for the discharge of refuse from the byre. In the +south-east angle a small chamber has been formed for the herd, with a +little eyelet and ambry, and it would no doubt be cut off by +partitioning from the other occupants. At the south-west angle there is +a small door opening inwards, and some indications that a chamber had +been formed between the building itself and the north wall of the +priory. At the south wall head (internally) there has been inserted a 4 +or 5 foot long schist slab, with a quaint human head carved in the +centre. It serves no purpose where it is, and must evidently have been a +relic of some older structure. There can be no doubt there was a doorway +to the west, but, if so, the present entrance shows no traces of it. The +building is still roofed, and in use. + +Pennant states that the church “contains the tombs of numbers of the +ancient islanders, two of warriors recumbent (7 feet long), a flattery +perhaps of the sculptor to give to future ages exalted notions of their +prowess. Besides, there are scattered over the floor lesser figures of +heroes, priests, and females, the last seemingly of some order, and near +them is a figure cut in stone of full size, apparently an abbess.”[145] + +These figures, as illustrated by Pennant, strongly recall the +corresponding monuments at Iona and elsewhere throughout the West +Highlands and Islands. + +The slabs have now been set up against the walls of the church (see Fig. +1311), while others still exist in the burying-ground outside. + +Close to the south-west angle of the narthex stands the celebrated +Oronsay cross[146] (see Fig. 1310). It stands on mason work covered by a +slab 3 feet by 3 feet 3 inches, perforated with a hole in which the +cross is fixed. The shaft is 12 feet in height. On the west face there +is a Crucifixion on the disc, and the shaft is carved on both sides with +the usual Celtic ornament in round panels. The inscription near the base +is now illegible. + + + + +ST. MAELRUBBA, LOCH EYNORT, SKYE. + + +The site of the ancient Church of St. Maelrubba, at the head of Loch +Eynort in the south of Skye, is now occupied by a more recent ruin.[147] +A very interesting relic of the ancient church is, however, preserved in +the remarkable font (Figs. 1314 and 1315), which, after some wandering +and neglect, has at last found a suitable resting-place in the Museum of +the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland in Edinburgh. An account of its +transference from the shore of Loch Eynort to the Museum is given by Mr. +J. Russell Walker, in a paper on “Scottish Baptismal Fonts” in the +_Proceedings_ of that Society, 1886-7, p. 412. The bowl is circular, +both externally and internally, and the basin is 1 foot 6½ inches in +diameter and 13 inches deep. The circumference is divided into four +equal parts by four figures representing--(1) The Crucifixion, (2) The +Blessed Virgin with the Child, (3) a mitred bishop in full canonicals +with a crosier in his left hand, and (4) St. Michael slaying the dragon. +The panels to the right and left of the Crucifixion are filled with +interlaced work, and those to the right and left of the bishop with +inscriptions not now legible. On the lower sloping parts between the +figures are floral designs. The font is of hornblende gneiss, and the +carving is remarkable in that hard material. There seem + +[Illustration: FIG. 1314.--St. Maelrubba. Font.] + +to be the remains of four caps, as if there had been four shafts to +support the bowl. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1315.--St. Maelrubba. Font.] + +The carving of this font is a striking illustration of the peculiar +mixture of Celtic and Gothic work, of which numerous specimens are above +noticed in connection with the structures of the Western Highlands and +Islands, as at Iona, Rowdil, &c. + + * * * * * + +The examples of the third or late pointed period of Gothic architecture +given above sufficiently indicate the progress of the style during the +period, and show its gradual decline. + +The following examples of this period, being for the most part +fragmentary, are arranged alphabetically by counties. + + + + +KINKELL CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +A ruinous building, very prettily situated on the left bank of the Don, +about three miles north from Kintore. Kinkell was once, as its name +signifies, the head church of the district, and had under it six +subordinate churches. In 1754 the Lords Commissioners for plantation of +kirks annexed one third of the parish of Kinkell to that of Kintore, the +remainder going to augment the parish of Keithhall. In 1771 the Church + +[Illustration: FIG. 1316.--Kinkell Church. Plan.] + +of Kinkell was unroofed in order to supply materials for use in the +Church of Keithhall. The Church of Kinkell was remarkable for its fine +design and workmanship, and contained several monuments and sculptures; +but it is now sadly ruined, only the north wall and parts of the east +and west walls remaining. + +The edifice (Fig. 1316) was a simple oblong 73 feet in length by 18 feet +6 inches in width internally. There has been a large east window, only +one jamb of which partially remains, and there are no other window or +door openings preserved. The north wall seems to have been entirely +without openings. A large modern burial vault has been erected in the +centre of the church. + +One or two features of the former fine ornamentation of the structure +still remain _in situ_, but other portions have been removed, and are +now to be found elsewhere, as will be pointed out. + +In the north wall near the east end is a fine sacrament house (Fig. +1317). The design consists, as usual in these details, of a buttress on +each side of the ambry, with crocketed finials, the carving of which is +of a late style. Between the pinnacles is a panel which seems to have +been + +[Illustration: FIG. 1317.--Kinkell Church. Sacrament House.] + +ornamented with the usual monstrance supported by two angels, but the +carving is nearly obliterated. Above this panel there runs a small +crenelated parapet, supported by a double row of corbels. Immediately +over the parapet is an oblong panel, which doubtless contained a +Crucifixion or similar sculpture, but it is now empty. + +To the right and left of the pinnacles are two panels, each containing a +ribbon of different design. That on the left bears the inscription “HIC +EST SVATV,” and that on the right the words “CORPS DE VIGIE NATUM,” +which may be read, “Hic est servatum corpus de Virgine Natum.” + +On the base of the ambry are the letters ANO. DNI. 1528, in the centre +MEORARE, and on the right the initials A. and G. united by a cord. The +letter G. also occurs at the end of the inscription in the right hand +panel, and is probably a repetition of the last letter of the initials +A. G. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1318.--Kinkell Church. + +Panel in North Wall of Church.] + +The base is supported on a continuous corbel carved with foliage, and +has in the centre a shield, bearing a lion rampant. + +The initials A. G. twice repeated and the date, together with the late +style of the work, point to the sacrament house having been designed by +Alexander Galloway, who was rector of Kinkell in 1528, and who was also +the architect of the first bridge of ten arches over the Dee at +Aberdeen. + +Another panel (Fig. 1318) is built into the north wall of the church a +little to the west of the sacrament house. It contains a Crucifixion, +with a figure of the Virgin Mary on one side and an angel on the other. +The initials of Alexander Galloway occur three times on this sculpture, +and the date 1525. + +The font which was removed from the Church of Kinkell long stood in a +garden, but is now restored and placed in St. John’s Episcopal Church, +Aberdeen. Of the original font only the granite basin now exists. It is +octagonal in form, and each face is illustrated with one or more sacred +emblems, as shown in Fig. 1319, except one face, on which occur the +initials of Alexander Galloway, parson of Kinkell. He was one of the +best known ecclesiastics in Scotland before the Reformation, and gifted +this font to the Church of Kinkell. Galloway appears to have been one +of the most able public men of his time, of whom Boece says,[148] “He +was so great a favourite + +[Illustration: FIG. 1319.--Kinkell Church. Font.] + +with the Bishop (Elphinston) that none of his concerns of moment were +transacted without him.” + + + + +SACRAMENT HOUSE, KINTORE, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +Another piece of sculpture (Fig. 1320) said to have been removed from +the Church of Kinkell is preserved at the Church of Kintore. It was at +one time built into the outer wall of the Church of Kintore, but it has +now been removed for better preservation into the interior. It + +[Illustration: FIG. 1320.--Sacrament House, Kintore. + +Old Monument built into Wall.] + +originally consisted of two parts, the lower portion containing the +ambry for the reception of the sacramental elements, and the upper +portion being enriched with a beautifully carved bas-relief, +representing a monstrance of elaborate tabernacle work, supported by two +angels, and crowned with a sculptured crucifix. The ambry is now +wanting, except the lintel, which bears the words Jesus Maria. Over the +lintel is a panel which no doubt formerly contained sculpture, now +removed. The whole design is surrounded with a frame composed of a +series of baluster shaped shafts, covered with flat foliage of a +Renaissance character. + +Whether this decorated work came from Kinkell or not, it evidently +belongs to the period when that church was built, being of the latest +Gothic design, which prevailed immediately before the Reformation. + + + + +ST. ADAMNAN’S CHAPEL, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +A small chapel situated near Leask, some two or three miles inland from +the old Castle of Slains. It is surrounded by what appears to have been +a churchyard, but is now covered with stunted trees. The chapel (Fig. +1321) is filled with its own ruins and is utterly uncared for. The walls +are fairly entire for a height of about 7 feet, while the east gable is +nearly complete, and contains a pointed window about 7 feet wide, which +was probably filled with tracery. The outside jambs are gone, but the +inner splayed face of the arch is still entire. In the east wall are the +remains of what may have been a piscina, and there is an ambry in the +south wall adjoining. There are a window in the south wall and two +openings of some kind in the north, with a narrow window high up in the +west gable. The doorway is on the south side, but its jambs are gone, +and only the bar hole remains to indicate that it was the doorway. The +church measures, externally, 45 feet from east to west by 23 feet 3 +inches from north to south. + +Not much is recorded about this chapel. In the _View of the Diocese of +Aberdeen_[149] it is referred to as the Parish Church of Fervie, +“dedicated to St. Fidamnan, Abbot of Icolmkill.” + +From the charters preserved at Slains, we learn that “a letter of +manrent by the Lard of Essilmont is dated ‘at the Chapell of Laske’ on + +[Illustration: FIG. 1321.--St. Adamnan’s Chapel. Plan and Interior View, +looking East.] + +the 11th of September 1499.”[150] Probably the church was erected during +the foregoing century. + + + + +ARDCHATTAN CHURCH, ARGYLESHIRE. + + +Slight fragments of this ancient church are to be found on the north +shore of Loch Etive, about four miles from Bonawe Ferry, near Taynuilt +Station. This priory, dedicated to St. Modan, is said to have been +founded in 1231 by Duncan Mackowle or MacDougal of Lorn, for monks of +the order of Vallis Caulium. The remains (Fig. 1322) consist of the +north, east, and west walls of what has been an oblong chamber, and +apparently + +[Illustration: FIG. 1322.--Ardchattan Church. Plan.] + +the choir of a church. It measures 66 feet in length by 28 feet in +width. In the small part of the south wall which survives there is a +sedilia (Fig. 1323) with three seats. Each seat is marked by a sharply +pointed arch, and the whole are enclosed in a deeply moulded +semicircular arch. Some fragments, including a piscina, are now built +into the back of the seats, but these are modern insertions. At the +right hand termination of the large arch a small lion is sculptured, +which recalls some of the carved work at Iona, and at the bases of the +smaller arches carved leaves are introduced. There has also been an +ambry in the east wall (see Plan). + +At the west end of the building a double wall 9 feet in thickness has +been erected. It is pierced with a round-headed archway, and has +projecting jambs in the centre. This archway now leads into an open +courtyard connected with a mansion. Its former use is difficult to +determine. + +To the north of the choir is preserved the outline of an irregular +structure, which may have been a sacristy. It is 42 feet long by 14 feet +wide at the east end, and 11 feet wide at the west end, and has been +connected with the choir by a doorway and two windows. The exterior +walls are now nearly demolished. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1323.--Ardchattan Church. Sedilia.] + +To the south of the choir is an open space enclosed with a wall 18 feet +long by 15 feet wide, evidently erected as a burial-place. It has an +arched entrance gateway at the south end. On the keystone of the arch +are the letters C. K. and the date 1614. Lying within the choir are +several monuments, one being in the recess of the larger window opening +into the sacristy. Two are monuments of priors of the Macdougal family, +and bear the dates of 1500 and 1502. The inscriptions have given rise to +much discussion. + +In 1644 the Macdonalds, led by Colkitto, burnt and destroyed the priory. + + + + +KILMUN CHURCH, ARGYLESHIRE. + + +On the north shore of the Holy Loch, about one mile and a half from +Strone, stand the small ruins of the ancient Collegiate establishment +of Kilmun. According to Dr. Skene a Columban establishment was here +founded by St. Fintan Munnu of Teach in Munnu in Ireland. The district +of Cowal, in which this establishment was situated, was long in the +possession of the Lamont Clan, but was subsequently acquired by the +Campbells. The church had, in the thirteenth century, passed into lay +hands, “as, between 1230 and 1246, Duncan, son of Ferchan, and his +nephew Laidman, son of Malcolm, grant to the monks of Paisley lands +which they and their ancestors had at Kilmun, with the whole right of +patronage in the church of Kilmun.”[151] + +In 1442 a collegiate establishment was founded by Duncan Campbell of +Lochow, for a provost and six prebendaries. The founder was buried + +[Illustration: FIG. 1324.--Kilmun Church. Plans.] + +here in 1453, and Kilmun has since then continued to be the burial-place +of the Argyll family. The great Marquis of Argyll was interred here in +1661, and the mausoleum of the family stands in the churchyard. + +Of the College Church only a small portion remains, a modern church +having been erected on the site of the old structure. + +The remaining portion (Fig. 1324) consists of a tower about 20 feet +square and about 40 feet in height. The basement floor is vaulted, and +contains a doorway which entered from the west end of the church, and +small loops in each of the south and west sides. That the church +extended eastward from the tower is apparent from the fragments of the +side walls and the mark of the roof, which still exist on the east side +of the tower (see Fig. 1325). A wheel stair is carried up in the +south-west angle of the tower, which gave access to three stories on the +upper floors. The first floor contained a small rectangular window to +the south. The floor above had a fireplace and a south window with +pointed and cusped arch-head + +[Illustration: FIG. 1325.--Kilmun Church. View from South-East.] + +(Fig. 1325). Over this was an attic, now ruined. From the above +fireplace and ornamental window, we may perhaps assume that the tower +was the abode of the provost, and from the strength with which it is +built, and general resemblance to a keep, the tower was doubtless +designed to form a place of strength in case of need. + + + + +ALLOWAY KIRK, AYRSHIRE. + + +This old structure, made famous by the genius of Burns, stands in its +churchyard, surrounded with ancient trees, on the banks of the Doon, +about three miles southwards from Ayr. The burying-ground contains many +strangely sculptured tombstones, and a plain slab marks the grave of the +poet’s father. Mention of Alloway occurs in 1236. In the beginning of +the sixteenth century, when James VI. refounded and enlarged the Chapel +Royal of Stirling, he annexed to it the Church of Alloway in Kyle, to +form the prebend of one of the canons of that collegiate chapel. In 1690 +the parish of Alloway was annexed to that of Ayr, and the church allowed +to become ruinous. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1326.--Alloway Kirk. Plan.] + +The building (Fig. 1326) is 40 feet long by 20 feet broad internally. It +is evident that the walls are ancient, but owing to alterations it is +difficult to assign the building to any definite date. The principal +feature is the two-light window (Fig. 1327), enclosed within one arch in +the east gable, but this might be of almost any period before the +seventeenth century. The belfry is massive and by no means without good +effect, but it is clearly a post-Reformation structure. + +On the outside of the south wall an old stoup or benitier has been let +into the wall, but what purpose it can have served is far from clear. +The church has evidently been used for worship in the seventeenth +century, but is now a roofless ruin. + +Part of the roof was standing when Captain Grose visited it in the end +of last century. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1327.--Alloway Kirk. View from North-East.] + + + + +OLD DAILLY CHURCH, AYRSHIRE. + + +A ruin situated in the vale of the Girvan Water, about three miles east +from Girvan. It stands in the centre of a spacious churchyard, planted +with noble trees. Within its walls rest the remains of several of the +Martyrs of the Covenant. The church was anciently called Dalmakervan, +and was dedicated to St. Michael. It was granted by Duncan, first Earl +of Carrick, to the monks of Paisley, and confirmed to them by Alexander +II. in 1236. It was afterwards transferred to the monks of Crosraguel, +and the name was changed to Dailly, possibly from the site of the church +having been changed. + +The structure (Fig. 1328) is very long and narrow, being 92 feet in +length and 26 feet wide over the walls. There is a gable wall at each +end, and each gable is crowned with a belfry (Fig. 1329). It is +difficult to account for the presence of the two belfries. That on the +east gable is the more + +[Illustration: FIG. 1328.--Old Dailly Church. Plan.] + +ornamental of the two, but its ornament is obscured by ivy. The western +belfry is plain and rather ruinous. The walls contain no doorways, and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1329.--Old Dailly Church. View from North-East.] + +only part of one window. From the details of the latter, the work seems +to be of the seventeenth century, but the walls may be older. A new +church was erected at New Dailly, and divine service transferred to it +in 1696, since which period the old church has fallen into ruin. + +A burial vault has been constructed within the east part of the +building, in connection with the Bargeny Estate, which adjoins. Another +similar vault for the use of the Killochan Estate, situated on the +opposite side of the Girvan Water, has been erected at the north-east +angle of the church (see Fig. 1329). It is evidently a seventeenth +century structure. The north front is peculiar, having a deep niche on +each side of the doorway. The latter is now built up. + + + + +STRAITON CHURCH, AYRSHIRE. + + +The village of Straiten stands near the north base of the mountains +which form the boundary between Ayrshire and Kirkcudbrightshire. It is +situated in a pastoral district about seven miles south-east from +Maybole, and near the right bank of the Girvan Water. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1330.--Straiton Church. South Wing.] + +The existing church is plain and of post-Reformation date, except a wing +(Fig. 1330) which extends like a transept to the south, and measures +about 21 feet 3 inches each way. This wing has been built in Gothic +times, and when first erected probably formed part of the church, having +a large traceried window in the south end, and a piscina in the inside +of the east wall. The wing is now divided into two stories by a floor +which has been inserted about 6 feet from the ground level, so as to +convert the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1331. + +Straiton Church. + +South Doorway and Panel over.] + +upper story into a gallery, with a private room adjoining, for the use +of the Blairquhan family, whose domain adjoins. This upper floor is +entered by a stair which has been erected on the south side of the wing +(but is omitted in the sketch). + +The south wing or transept contains, besides the large east window above +referred to, a doorway (Fig. 1331) in the north-west angle, with an ogee +shaped arch, surmounted by a panel having a pointed and trefoiled +arch-head, and an enriched moulding surrounding the jambs and arch. + +These features all indicate a late date. The large window in the south +gable is of handsome form and construction, and the tracery is well +designed and executed. It would naturally be assigned to the fourteenth +century, but for the lower members, which are formed with straight +lines, and certainly point to a later period, probably the sixteenth +century. This window thus shows the tendency there was in Scotland to +revert at the latter date to the forms of an earlier period. + +The mode of finishing the gable also indicates a late time. Large gabled +crowsteps, such as are seen here, are rare features in ecclesiastical +edifices in this country. We do not recall any example of such large +crowsteps, except at Methven Church, Perthshire, which is undoubtedly a +late example. + +The Church of Straiton was dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and granted, by +Alexander II. in 1236, to the monks of Paisley, but afterwards +transferred to Crosraguel Abbey.[152] + + + + +CULLEN CHURCH, BANFFSHIRE. + + +The ancient town of Cullen stood on the right bank of Cullen Water, at a +little distance from the coast. It was greatly destroyed in the time of +Montrose, and has been rebuilt on a new site nearer the sea. The old +church, however, which is dedicated to St. Mary, still stands, +surrounded + +[Illustration: FIG. 1332.--Cullen Church. Plan.] + +by the churchyard, on the old site near Cullen House, and continues to +be used as the Parish Church. Although it has been altered at different +times it still retains part of the ancient work, the oldest portions +being the east end and the south aisle. The edifice (Fig. 1332) is +cruciform in plan, having nave, choir, and transepts, all without +aisles. The choir would appear, from the coats of arms it bears on the +outside, and from the splendid monument in the interior of the north +wall, to have been erected by Alexander Ogilvie, who died in 1554, and +his second wife, Elizabeth Gordon. + +There was a chaplainry in the church dedicated to St. Ann. This +foundation, with the name of the founder and other particulars, are +recorded by inscriptions cut upon different parts of the south aisle or +transept.[153] “The first quoted inscription is from the arch of a +recess tomb on the west side of the aisle. It is carved in raised and +prettily formed capitals, and accompanied by a craftsman’s mark. + +“IHON · HAY · LORD · OF · FORESTBON̄ · AZ̄E · & · TOLIBOVIL· GVDSIR · TO +ELEN · HAY · Y^{t} · BIGIT · YIS · ILE · LEFT · A · CHAPLARI · HEIR · TO +· SING PERSONALI · OF · HIS · LĀDIS · OF · ORDIHVF.” + +The places named in the above inscription were received by Alexander +Seton of Gordon (first Earl of Huntly) through his marriage with the +heiress of Sir John Hay of Tilibody. “It was probably John’s son, David +Hay, who, about 1390-1406, had a charter from Robert III. of the place +of Cullen.” + +“The next quoted inscription not only presents the important and +interesting facts of the name of the chaplainry, the extent of the gift, +and the services required, but also the names of the founder of the +chaplainry and the persons to be prayed for, together with those in whom +the patronage of the living was to be vested after the decease of the +heirs of the donor. It is carved round the arch of the large window of +the south aisle, in the same style as the above inscription. + +“SANT · ANIS · CHAPLAN · HEIR · DOTAT · Y^{t} · 35 (?) ACRE · GVD · +CROFT LĀD · IN · CULĀ · & · TENEMENTIS · SAL · BE · A · GVDE · SINGAR · +OF · HALI LIF · BVT · ODIR · SERVICE · & · DAELI · RESIDENT · TO · PRAIE +· FOR · ELEN HAY · · HER · BARNIS · HIS · FYIV · DŌRS · AT · GIFT · OF · +ION · DUF · & HIS · ARIS · OF · MADAVAT · & · FALING · YAROF · AT · GIFT +· OF · YE · BALZEIS AND COMUNITIE · OF · COLĀ.” + +The words PER · ELENA · HAY are carved upon the lower side of one of the +stones of the arch of the south window. Upon the west side of the arch +is this notice of the building of the aisle:-- + +“· · · ELENGE · HAY · IŌN · DUFFIS · MODR · OF · MALDAVAT · YAT · MAID +YIS · ISLE · YE · CHAPLANRI. · · ·” + +The two inscriptions last quoted “show that Elen Hay was mother of John +Hay of Muldavit, who died in 1404, to whom, until 1792, there was a +recumbent effigy in the recess tomb in the south aisle at Cullen, also +an inscribed slab with a rudely engraved figure in armour.” + +The entrance to St. Ann’s Chapel from the main church is by an arch with +pilasters and capitals, and below the caps of the west pilaster are the +words ME · MĒTO · MORI, and on the east DISCE · MORI. Below the last + +[Illustration: FIG. 1333.--Cullen Church. South Aisle and Choir.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1334.--Cullen Church. Monument of Alexander +Ogilvie.] + +motto is the name of the mason who built the aisle, viz., ROBERT · MOIR +MASON, and his mark, †/x. On the outside of the aisle (Fig. 1333) +one corner stone bears PER ELENA · HAY, and another SOLI DEO · HONOR · +ET · GLORIA. + +Although Mr. Jervise attributes the above inscriptions and the erection +of the chapel to 1404, the style of the lettering and the abundance + +[Illustration: FIG. 1335.--Cullen House. + +Sacrament House in Choir.] + +of it, together with the style of the mottoes, would rather tend to the +conclusion that the work is of a considerably later date. The arch +forming the entrance from the church to the chapel, with its pilasters, +has certainly the character of sixteenth century work. The group of four +pointed windows in the south end of the south aisle has not the +appearance of decorated work, such as prevailed about 1404. On the +contrary, these windows recall the revived and imitative work of the +sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. This group of windows, with its +four pointed lights (round the inside of which one of the above +inscriptions occurs), is evidently a late design. Possibly an aisle was +built in the beginning of the fifteenth century, when the bequest was +made, but it seems to have been rebuilt in the following century, when +the inscriptions, which are scattered very irregularly over the +structure, were reinserted and added to. The edifice was probably +rebuilt when, about 1543, the Church of Cullen was converted into a +college by Alexander Ogilvie of Deskford and Findlater, for the +accommodation and maintenance of a provost, six prebendaries, and two +singing boys. A bead-house was also erected by the same individual, for +the support of a number of decayed men and women. + +The choir, which is a portion added at the east end, contains a richly +decorated monument in the north wall, erected by Alexander Ogilvie at +the date of the church being made collegiate. The monument (Fig. 1334) +is large, and extends from the floor to the roof. It consists of an +arched recess with a group of ornamental shafts at each side, and large +spandrils above, containing two large round panels, each having in the +centre a sculptured figure in bas-relief. Along the top runs a series of +canopies + +[Illustration: FIG. 1336.--Cullen Church. Interior of Choir.] + +and pinnacles of peculiar design. Within the arch lies an effigy of the +founder clad in armour, supported on a basement, which is divided into +eight panels, each containing a figure attired in a hood and long robe +with book in hand. On a slab at the back of the arched recess is carved +the following inscription:-- + +CORPUS · ALEX^{r} · OGILVY · DE · FINLATER · HĒROS ·.· AC · SPONSĒ · +ELEZABETH · GORDON · BTRVMQ · EBBAT PRESIDE · PVRIS · BISTER · PVERISQ · +DVOBUS ·.· HAS · IACINT · EDES · IV̄ CTVS · VTERQ · PIVS MIGRAVIIT · ET +· HAC · LVCE · HIC · DIE · 4 · MĒNS · IVLII 1554 · ILLA · DIE · · · · · +· MĒSIS · · · · · · 155- + +[Illustration: FIG. 1337.--Cullen Church. + +Carved Wooden Pillar.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1338.--Cullen Church. + +Carved Wooden Pillar.] + +The inscription is accompanied by a variety of curious carvings, and by +the Ogilvie and Gordon arms. The style of the monument corresponds with +the date upon it, being one of the last attempts in the style of Gothic +work executed just before the Reformation. + +Mr Jervise mentions that in 1863, when alterations were made on the east +portion of the church, a stone altar-piece and ambry, in fine +preservation, were found. These were 5 to 6 feet in height, embellished +with the representation of two angels raising the host and other +ornaments, and the text (John vi. 54-56) below the cornice. + +CARO · MEA · VERE · EST · CIB · ET · SANGVIS · ME · VERE · Ē · POT · Q +MĀDVCAT · MEĀ · CARNĒ · T̄ · BIBIT · MEV̄ · SĀGVINĒ · VIVET · Ī · +ETERNV̄. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1339.--Cullen Church. + +Carved Wooden Pillar.] + +It is further stated that the ambry and altar-piece were unfortunately +reconsigned from view. A sacrament house, answering somewhat to the +above description of the ambry, is, however, now visible in the north +wall of the choir, to the east of the monument (Fig. 1335). The design +shows the two angels supporting a monstrance, and is very similar to, +but much simpler than, the sacrament house at Deskford, “which bears to +have been erected by Alexander Ogilvie, and his second wife, Elizabeth +Gordon,” of which an illustration is given below. + +The east end of the church has evidently been a good deal altered, as is +apparent from the south wall (see Fig. 1333), where doorways are +visible, which have been built up, and windows introduced above. + +The coats of arms of the Gordons and Ogilvies on the exterior correspond +with those in the interior. The choir contains a large east window +divided by three mullions, which cross one another in curved branches, +forming plain tracery in the arch-head (Fig. 1336). + +On the south side of the choir is still preserved a fine example of a +laird’s pew (see Fig. 1336). It is in two stories, the upper story +(which forms a gallery) being supported on four solid square wooden +pillars (Figs. 1337, 1338, and 1339), which are well carved with +numerous ornaments of Renaissance work, and bear the date of 1608. The +upper portion or gallery is also old, and contains some good carved +woodwork of the post-Reformation period. It is still used as the +proprietor’s pew, and is occupied by the Earl of Seafield, whose mansion +of Cullen House is close to the church. The lower story is occupied by +ordinary pews. + + + + +DESKFORD CHURCH, BANFFSHIRE. + + +The old church of Deskford is situated in its ancient churchyard, about +four miles south from Cullen. The church is now a roofless ruin, a new +church having been erected in the vicinity. The building is a plain +parallelogram, and has no features of note, except the large sacrament +house in the north wall near the east end. It seems to have been the +fashion in the sixteenth century in this part of the country to make +these features very ornamental. Such are the ambries or sacrament houses +at Kinkell, Auchendoir, and Cullen. The last was erected by the same +individual to whom that at Deskford is attributed, viz., Alexander +Ogilvie of Deskford and Findlater, whose splendid monument exists in +Cullen Church (see Fig. 1334). + +The sacrament house at Deskford (Fig. 1340) is very large, being 8 feet +in height by 3 feet 6 inches wide. The design is somewhat similar in all +the above sacrament houses, consisting of two angels above the ambry +supporting a monstrance, with a quasi-buttress on each side, and several +inscriptions and enrichments. At Deskford the side buttresses are a good +deal broken and their pinnacles removed. The whole design is surrounded +with a scroll ornament of grapes, and there are several inscriptions on +various parts of the design. The first is on two scrolls immediately +over the ambry, “Os meum es et cara mea”--“Thou art my bone and my +flesh;” and another occurs on the broad sill of the ambry, “Ego sum +panis vivus qui de celo descendi quis manducaverit ex hoc pane vivet in +æternum”--from sixth chapter of John’s Gospel. Beneath the latter are +two shields, the first containing the arms of Ogilvie of Deskford and +Findlater, viz., 1st and 4th a lion passant gardant gules for Ogilvie, +2nd and 3rd argent a cross engrailed sable for Sinclair of Deskford, +with motto Tout jour. The initials A. O. occur at the sides of this +shield. The second shield contains, impaled with the above, the arms of +Gordon, for Alexander Ogilvie’s second wife, Elizabeth Gordon, and the +motto Laus Deo. + +Under the coats of arms there is a long inscription, which is remarkable +as being the only one in English on any of the above sacrament houses. +It also authorises the name of sacrament house for these ornamental +ambries. It is as follows:-- + +THIS · PN̄T (present) LOVEBLE · VARK · OF · SACRAMĒT · HOVS · MAID · TO +YE · HONOR [M] LOVĪG · OF · GOD · BE · ANE · NOBLE · MAN · ALEXANDER +OGILVY · OF · YAT · ILK [M] ELEZABET · GORDON · HIS · SPOVS · THE · ZEIR +OF · GOD · 1551.[154] + +The date would lead one to expect the very debased Gothic work which is +found here, the influence of the approaching Renaissance being very +apparent in the style of the ornamentation. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1340.--Deskford Church. Sacrament House.] + + + + +ST. MOLOC’S OR ST. MOLUOG’S CHURCH, MORTLACH, BANFFSHIRE. + + +It was formerly believed, on the evidence of Boece, that Malcolm ii. in +a battle with the Danes, looking up to the Chapel of St. Moloc at +Mortlach, vowed that, if successful, he would there erect a cathedral +and found a bishop’s see. The record of the See of Aberdeen appeared to +support this statement, and mentioned further that the see was +afterwards transferred by David i. to Aberdeen. But Professor Cosmo +Innes has + +[Illustration: FIG. 1341.--St. Moloc’s or St. Moluog’s Church. Plan.] + +proved that these stories are forgeries, and must be entirely rejected. +It is, however, probable that there was an early religious settlement at +Mortlach, which may have given some foundation for the above fables. At +all events, in 1157, a Bull of Pope Adrian IV. mentions the monastery of +Mortlach and the five churches belonging to it. + +The existing structure (Fig. 1341) consists of an old building of simple +oblong form, 83 feet in length internally by 24 feet in width, to which +was added, in 1826, a large north wing or aisle. This wing was further +vefynded in 1876, and now measures, internally, 36 feet long by 26 feet. + +A small wing or projection has also been added to the south to contain +an organ, and the whole church has been reseated and fitted up for +service in modern style. There are two lancet windows in the east end, +which, together with some portions of the walls, may be ancient (perhaps +of thirteenth century date), as it is understood that these windows were +found built up, and were reopened during the late restoration, but the +remainder of the church has been completely modernised. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1342.--St. Moloc’s or St. Moluog’s Church. Effigy of +Alexander Leslie.] + +Under a pointed arch in the thickness of the north wall, close to the +east end, lies the recumbent effigy of a knight in armour (Fig. 1342), +supposed to be the monument of Alexander Leslie, the first of +Kininvie,[155] who died about 1549. The figure used to stand upright, +but has now been placed in its proper position. + +A remarkable sculptured stone[156] stands in the flat ground below the +church, where the battle with the Danes is said to have taken place, and +of which it is traditionally believed to be a memorial. + + + + +ABBEY ST. BATHANS, BERWICKSHIRE.[157] + + +The Abbey of St. Bothan was a convent for Cistercian nuns. Its scanty +remains are situated about four miles south-west from Grant’s House +Railway Station, in a beautiful valley on the right bank of the +Whitadder, which here flows a calm full stream, surrounded by gently +swelling hills--an ideal situation for such a house. The modern parish +church appears to occupy the site of the ancient church of the abbey, +and probably the nunnery buildings were included within the existing +churchyard, which lies on the south side of the church. The east wall of +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1343.--Abbey St. Bathans. East Wall.] + +church only is old, and is entirely ivy clad, the east window (Fig. +1343) being just visible. It is round-arched and is of two lights, each +9 inches wide, with a quatrefoil above, having rather rudely formed +cusping. The mullion is modern, and the tracery is recessed to about the +middle of the thickness of the wall, being about 18 inches back from the +outer face. There is a set-off on the gable, hidden by ivy. It is +impossible to say how much of the other walls are old, but probably the +modern church occupies the old foundations, in which case the ancient +church was + +[Illustration: FIG. 1344.--Abbey St. Bathans. + +Figure of a Prioress.] + +of small size, being about 45 feet long by 24 feet wide.[158] There is a +sundial on the wall-head of the south wall at the east end. At the north +corner of the east end there are indications of a wall with a splayed +base having extended eastwards. + +In the interior of the church a modern arched recess (or what appears on +the face as modern) contains the recumbent figure of a prioress (Fig. +1344). It measures 6 feet long, and is in good preservation. There +appears to have been a dog lying at her feet, but it has been knocked +off. + +About a quarter of a mile to the south of the church, on the slope of a +hill, there are the foundations of a chapel (Fig. 1345) measuring about +38 feet long by 15 feet wide internally. The end walls are each about 5 +feet thick, and the side walls about 3 feet. Nothing else belonging to +the church remains, except a few fragments of what was probably a +circular font, and a window sill lying amongst the ruins. It shows that +the window was eight inches wide. A plain slab 6 feet long by 18 inches +wide lies in the centre of the building. + +The Convent of St. Bothan’s was founded by Ada, daughter of William the +Lion, in 1184. She married Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, and they made +adequate endowments to the convent.[159] According to Chalmers there was +a previous church here, dedicated to St. Bothan, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1345.--Abbey St. Bathans. Plan of Chapel.] + +which was probably given to the Countess Ada’s nuns. It is just possible +that the second church, noticed above, may be the church referred to. + + + + +BASSENDEAN CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +The ancient parish of Bassendean is now incorporated with that of +Westruther, both in the south-west part of Berwickshire, and the church +has long been disused. + +The remains of Bassendean Church, which was dedicated to St. Mary, lie +five and a half miles west of Greenlaw. The walls are broken down, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1346.--Bassendean Church. Plan.] + +but the plan (Fig. 1346) can still be traced. The structure is a simple +oblong, measuring 54 feet 6 inches in length by about 20 feet in width +externally. The doorway is in the south side, and has been provided with +a slot for a bolt. The remains of a stoup and ambry exist beside the +door, and there is a recess for a piscina near the east end, and an +ambry in the north wall opposite it. In the centre of the south wall +there has been a single-light window, and towards the east end a larger +two-light + +[Illustration: FIG. 1347.--Bassendean Church. (From _The Churches of +Berwickshire_.)] + +window with a central mullion, now built up (Fig. 1347). The plan of the +jamb (Fig. 1348) shows that the structure has been of an + +[Illustration: FIG. 1348. + +Bassendean Church. + +Window Jamb.] + +advanced date. The grooves for the glass are in the centre of the wall. +There is no window in either of the east, north, or west walls. +Fragments of the font are lying amongst the rubbish in the inside. + +The old church of Bassendean is still used as a burial-place by the +Homes of Bassendean. + +The church belonged to the priory of Coldstream, and appears to have +been abandoned at the Reformation. It was again used for divine service +from 1647 to 1649, when a new church was erected at Westruther, and St. +Mary’s was allowed to fall into ruin. + + + + +COCKBURNSPATH CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +The village of Cockburnspath is situated about seven miles south-east of +Dunbar. The church here is peculiar and unique, in having a round tower +in the centre of the west wall. It is a long narrow building (Fig. +1349), measuring about 80 feet in length by 18 feet 3 inches in width. +The structure has been much knocked about, having undergone at least two +restorations at different times, the last being about twenty years ago. +It is therefore not surprising to find that there is nothing left inside +the building of any architectural interest. Four angle buttresses at the +corners, however, remain intact, together with portions of an early base +course near the east end, and the head of a window, containing +geometrical tracery (Fig. 1350), has been preserved and built into the +south wall over the door near the east end. Judging from these details +and from the thickness of the walls (3 feet 2 inches) it seems probable +that the church is not later than the sixteenth century. + +The tower (Fig. 1351) is about 9 feet in external diameter, and its +interior diameter is about 6 feet. It is about 30 feet high, and +contains + +[Illustration: FIG. 1349.--Cockburnspath Church. Plan.] + +a circular stone stair. There is a string course above the level of the +ridge of the church, above which the tower rises one story. In this +there are several openings or loop holes of a roughly formed cross +shape, similar to those sometimes found in the old castles. The tower is +built of rubble work in quite a different style of masonry from that of +the church. There is nothing to indicate that it is older than the +church, except its position. Mr. T. S. Robertson[160] is probably +correct when he states, “From its position, I am clearly of opinion that +it existed before the church, and that the church walls were built up to +it. I cannot believe that any one capable of building the round tower +would have taken out the centre of a gable fully 3 feet thick to insert +this tower,” for it will be observed that the tower projects inside. +“The most that would have been done, had the church been earlier than +the tower, would have been to slap a door of communication through the +wall of the church.” The tower was probably erected independently as a +belfry and for other occasional purposes. A circular stair beginning at +the level of the church floor, and entering from the church by a +square-headed door, is carried up as far as the upper story of the +tower, which has been mended with brick work, otherwise the tower is all +of one age. The walls are only 18 inches thick, but the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1350.--Cockburnspath Church. Door and Window Head at +East End.] + +stone steps of the stair bind them together, and make the building as +strong as if it had been built of one solid mass of masonry. + +The small building at the east end is probably a century later than the +church. It has a pointed barrel-vaulted roof, and an original +square-headed doorway in the centre of its east wall. It is now used as +the heating chamber of the church. + +On the apex of the south-west buttress there is a remarkable sundial, +which has already been illustrated.[161] + +From Mr. Ferguson’s remarks[162] it is evident that the history of this +building has not been investigated. There were a chapel and a hospital +at + +[Illustration: FIG. 1351.--Cockburnspath Church. View from South-West.] + +Cockburnspath in early times. Robert, Chaplain of Colbrundspath, is +mentioned in 1255, but Mr. Ferguson has doubts as to this being the site +of the chapel referred to. + + + + +PRESTON CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +A ruined church situated about two miles north from Duns. It is in a +state of complete dilapidation, and is densely covered with ivy. The +structure (Fig. 1352) consists of a nave and chancel of equal width, the +whole internal length being about 70 feet by 14 feet 6 inches in width, +and the chancel is about 18 feet 6 inches long. The round chancel arch +is blocked, and it is doubtful if it is original. There are two narrow +pointed windows in the east wall and one in the west wall, all widely +splayed towards the interior, and finished with a segmental arch. +Another window in the south wall of the chancel (shown in Fig. 1353) is +of the same character, only that it is lintelled on the inside instead + +[Illustration: FIG. 1352.--Preston Church. Plan.] + +of being arched. Beneath this window there is a peculiar piscina (see +Fig. 1353). It consists of a triangular shelf projecting about + +[Illustration: FIG. 1353.--Preston Church. Piscina.] + +17 inches from the wall (Fig. 1354) and having a shallow basin supported +on a rounded base. Above the shelf there is a round-arched recess 2 feet +2 inches high by 18 inches wide. The back of this recess leans forward, +so that while it is 8½ inches deep at the base, it is only 3 inches at +the crown of the arch. + +There are two south doors with square lintels, one in the chancel and +another in the nave near the west end. A later door has been made at the +east end of the nave. + +All the doors and windows are finished on the outside with a simple +chamfer. + +There has probably been a sacristy on the north side of the nave. + +Mr. Ferguson[163] assigns this church to an early period. The small +windows + +[Illustration: FIG. 1354.--Preston Church. Plan of Piscina.] + +in the end walls and the shallow buttresses at the west end have an +early appearance, but the same cannot be said of the details shown in +Fig. 1353. Mr. Muir[164] is doubtful as to its “just claim to +antiquity.” This church, with that of Bunkle, about two miles distant, +belonged to the Bishopric of Dunkeld. + + + + +ST. MARY’S ABBEY, ROTHESAY, BUTESHIRE. + + +About half a mile westwards from the town of Rothesay, and approached by +an avenue of fine old trees, there stands in the ancient burial-ground +the choir of the Abbey Church of St. Mary. The west end has been built +up with a wall containing a wide gateway, but otherwise the chancel +remains in fair preservation, although roofless. A modern church has +been erected beside it, but with an interval of a few inches between the +new and old structures. + +The ancient chancel (Fig. 1355) now measures 27 feet in length by 18 +feet in width internally. The east wall, with its gable (Fig. 1356), +still survives, and contains a large three-light window, of which the +tracery has been of the simple intersecting kind. The east ends of the +side walls had each a single pointed light with pointed rear arches. +Near the west end of the north wall is a plain pointed doorway, and a +small window with square lintel. The west end of the south wall +contained a doorway, now built up. + +Opposite one another, in the centre of the north and south walls, are +erected two more than usually interesting monuments. Both are recessed +in the wall, and are covered with an arched canopy, and in each the +effigy of the person commemorated is preserved. The monument in the +south wall (Fig. 1357) is the larger and finer of the two. It measures +nearly 11 feet over the side buttresses. The ogee arch in which it is +enclosed contains bold, but late, mouldings. The arch has been +ornamented with large crockets, but they are now much wasted away. The +monument has doubtless been erected in memory of one of the Stewarts of +Bute, who buried here, but its heraldry is peculiar. At the apex there +is a shield, which appears to contain the royal arms, but has two lions +for supporters, instead of the usual unicorns. There is also on the +base or pedestal of the monument a coat of arms, containing quarterly +first and fourth the Stewart arms, and second and third the royal arms. +The shield is supported by two angels. In a paper by Mr. John +Mackinlay,[165] written in 1825, these arms are fully described and +illustrated. They were then doubtless better preserved than they now +are, but the arms can still be deciphered. Mr. Mackinlay tries to +explain the remarkable circumstance of the Stewart arms having +precedence in the lower shield over the royal arms, by supposing that +they are placed on the tomb of the chief of the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1355.--St. Mary’s Abbey, Rothesay. Plan.] + +Clan. But the name of the person whose monument this is has not been +discovered.[166] As the bearings in quartered shields are often reversed +by mistake, the same may have happened here. + +The effigy is that of a knight in complete plate armour. The head rests +on a tilting helmet, with a dog’s head for crest, which is attached to a +cap put on over the helmet. The round hollow visible to the spectator +represents the inside of the helmet. The feet rest upon a lion. The +figure is considerably worn, but the plate armour and the gauntlets are +still distinctly seen. The bottom of the shirt of mail worn under the +cuirass and the jewelled sword belt and hilt of the sword are also +clearly visible. A coat of arms, similar to that on the pedestal, is +carved on the breast, being intended to represent the arms wrought in +embroidery on the surcoat. + +The lower part of the monument has been divided into panels, each +containing a quatrefoil, and between the panels there were at one time +small + +[Illustration: FIG. 1356.--St. Mary’s Abbey, Rothesay. View from +South-East.] + +figures of armed knights, each holding a spear. When Mr. Mackinlay +wrote, one of these figures survived; now they are all gone, together +with parts of the quatrefoils, and an irregular empty space is left +where they once stood. Mr. Mackinlay mentions that some excavation was +made, and an arched recess was found under the monument in which the +coffins had been placed, and three skulls were discovered therein. In +the upper part of the monument over the arch are two recesses, which +probably at one time contained coats of arms. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1357.--St. Mary’s Abbey, Rothesay. Monument in South +Wall.] + +The other monument (Fig. 1358) in the north wall of the chancel has been +erected in memory of a lady and child, whose effigies it contains. The + +[Illustration: FIG. 1358.--St. Mary’s Abbey, Rothesay. Monument in North +Wall.] + +figures of the lady and child are cut in a thin slab of stone, and have +not the bold effect of the knight in armour. There are no arms or +inscription on this monument, and the name of the person commemorated +is unknown. The arch over the figures is of the same description as that +of the opposite monument, but it is lower and not so effective. The +mouldings are also similar, and there have been crockets over the arch, +which are now greatly decayed. The width of the monument over all is +fully 8 feet. + +The lower part of the monument on which the effigies rest is divided +into eight panels by shafts, and each panel contains a sculptured +figure. Mr. Mackinlay says that they represent saints, and that amongst +them is the Virgin and Child. In their decayed condition the latter is +not now recognisable. The figures seem rather to resemble persons in the +dress of the fifteenth century, and some of them appear to be kneeling. + +At the east end of the chancel there is a pointed piscina in the south +wall (see Fig. 1357) and an ambry in the east wall. + +The style of the structure and of the monuments is undoubtedly late, +probably sixteenth century. + + + + +THE PARISH CHURCH AND THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ST. MARY, DUMBARTON, +DUMBARTONSHIRE. + + +The town of Dumbarton is situated on the left bank of the river Leven, +near its junction with the Clyde, and not far from the detached rock on +which stands the Castle of Dumbarton. A church existed here from a very +early time, and the parish church appears to have been rebuilt at least +three times, and is now a modern edifice of 1811. Previously the parish +church was represented by the quaint structure shown in Fig. 1359, which +has entirely disappeared, along with the hospital or bead-house +adjacent, which was erected in 1636 by Buchanan of Auchmore, and endowed +by him with £1021. This view is copied from a pencil sketch made by Paul +Sandby in 1747, which forms part of a valuable collection of sketches +relating to Scotland, preserved in the Library of the Royal Scottish +Academy, to the Council of which we are indebted for permission to +reproduce it. + +The parish church (see Fig. 1359) was probably intended to consist of a +choir and nave with a central tower, but only the choir and tower would +seem to have been built. As frequently happened, a north aisle or +transept appears from the view to have existed. This contained what was +known in later times as Mr. Campbell of Stonefield’s gallery and the +town council gallery, and it was entered by an outside stair. From the +description of the interior in Glen’s _History of Dumbarton_, p. 74, the +church was evidently a typical specimen of those picturesque, though +plain, interiors which have now almost disappeared. The pulpit stood on +the south side, and there were various galleries for the trades and for +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1359.--Dumbarton Church and Hospital. (From a +Drawing by Paul Sandby, 1747.)] + +garrison, while an upper end gallery called the hen-bauk was occupied by +single ladies. In 1622 Dame Jean Hamiltone, Lady of Luss, having no +convenient seat, was granted liberty by the kirk-session “to build ane +seat for hirsel, upon ye top of the east gavil.” The spire was of wood, +and was presumably covered with lead. Shortly after this sketch was made +the spire appears, from the Burgh Records, to have been ruinous, so that +its leaning appearance may be quite correct. The tower was of the low +squat form, with plain parapet, common at the time. + +The hospital appears, from the view, to have been of considerable +extent. It was evidently two stories in height, and was lighted by +round-headed windows. This bead-house and the small chapel attached to +it + +[Illustration: FIG. 1360.--Portion of Tower of Collegiate Church, +Dumbarton.] + +were ultimately dismantled and lay in a ruinous state till, in the year +1758, they were entirely demolished by the magistrates, and the stones +used to build the East Bridge and for other purposes. The church appears +to have been used as the parish church till about 1810, when it was +taken down and a new church built on the site. + +The Collegiate Church and Hospital of St. Mary were founded in 1450 by +Lady Isabella, Duchess of Albany and Countess of Lennox. She was the +widow of Murdoch, Duke of Albany, who was beheaded at Stirling in 1425. +About the beginning of the sixteenth century, the Earl of Lennox gifted +the church, with the temporality, to the Abbey of Kilwinning. The +chapter consisted of a provost and six canons, and was endowed with the +parish churches of Bonhill, Fintry, and Strathblane, and also held +considerable lands in the neighbourhood of Dumbarton, which yielded to +Kilwinning at the Reformation an annual revenue of £66, 13s. 4d. +sterling. + +The founder erected the college for the repose of the souls of “her +dearest husband, her father, and her sons,” who had been slain by their +relative James I. of Scotland, under the belief that they had been to +blame in connection with his long imprisonment in England. + +After the Reformation the college was allowed to fall into ruin, and its +materials were gradually carried off. In 1858, in order to make room for +the railway station, the last remnants of the edifice, one of the pier +arches and its piers (Fig. 1360) were removed from their position on a +grassy knoll, from which a fine view of the Leven was visible, and +re-erected as the gateway of a house.[167] + + + + +CHAPEL AT THE KIRKTON OF KILMAHEW,[168] DUMBARTONSHIRE. + + +This structure is an interesting example of a private ecclesiastical +foundation. The remains of the chapel stand in an ancient churchyard, on +a knoll close to a small stream, about one and a half miles north-west +from Cardross Railway Station. The building has attached to it the piece +of land with which it was endowed, and is surrounded by the estate of +Kilmahew, the property of John William Burns, Esq., to whom we are +indebted for bringing the structure under our notice. + +This chapel is believed to have been erected for the convenience of the +inhabitants of the locality, owing to the great distance of their parish +church at Roseneath, and also of the church of the neighbouring parish +of Cardross. The Napiers were proprietors of Kilmahew from about 1300. +John Napier was one of the defenders of Stirling Castle in 1304, along +with Sir William Olyfard. In 1406 William Napier obtained a charter of +the half lands of Kilmahew, “where the chapel is situated.”[169] + +A chapel existed here in 1370, when a charter was granted to Roger +Cochran of the lands of Kilmahew, “with the chapel thereof.” In 1467 a +new chapel was erected by Duncan Napier, then proprietor of Kilmahew, +who endowed it with an annual rent of 40s. and 10d. out of tenements in +Dumbarton. In the above year the new chapel, dedicated to St. Mahew, +was consecrated by George, Bishop of Argyll, in mitre and full +pontificals, with the permission of the Bishop of Glasgow, in whose +diocese it was situated. Possibly the existing chancel is part of the +structure then dedicated. + +At the Reformation this chapel was used as a preaching station by a +reader under the minister of Roseneath, but when the site of Cardross +Church was altered so as to bring it into its present more convenient +position as regards this locality, the chapel fell into disuse. The +burying-ground attached to it, however, continued in use for interments +till recent years. In 1640 a portion of the chapel was turned into a +school, in terms of an agreement between Robert Napier of Kilmahew and +the other heritors. Under this agreement Kilmahew bound himself--first, +“to give the use of his chapel of Kilmahew bewest the quir thereof, for +and in place of a school; second, to mortify to the schoolmaster +annually five + +[Illustration: FIG. 1361.--Chapel at the Kirkton of Kilmahew. Plan.] + +bolls one firlot of tiend bear, and also a house and a piece of land +layand thereto beside the chapel of Kilmahew, extending to about an acre +or therby, together with ane piece of land for pasture, which was of old +possest by the priest of Kilmahew, by order of the said Robert Napier of +Kilmahew his predecessors in time of superstition and popery; and in +case the annual value of these provisions should fall short of eighty +merks to make it up to that sum; third, to entertain the school master +present and to come, in meat, drink, and bedding, in household with +himself within the house of Kilmahew, so long as he shall discharge the +duty of family exercise and prayer within the said family.”[170] + +The acre of ground above referred to is now in the possession of the +School Board, together with two acres excambed in 1795 for the priest’s +right of pasturing a cow on Kirkton farm. + +The building is now unoccupied, but it is kept in good repair. It +consists (Fig. 1361) of an eastern portion or choir, which is roofed, +and of a western portion or nave, which is roofless. The former is +ancient, but the latter appears to be comparatively modern. The choir +is, internally, 13 feet 6 inches in length from west to east, by 16 feet +3 inches in width from north to south, and the walls are 3 feet in +thickness. In the west wall there is a rounded and chamfered arch 9 feet +2 inches in width, now built up. The choir has two windows, one in the +north + +[Illustration: FIG. 1362.--Chapel at the Kirkton of Kilmahew. View from +South-East.] + +wall and one in the south wall (Fig. 1362), each of which is +square-headed, and the outer jambs and lintel have a double splay. The +doorway, which is in the south wall, has also a square lintel and a bold +bead and hollow round the opening. In the interior of the north wall +there is an arched recess 8 feet in length by 2 feet in depth, which may +have contained a monument, or may have been an Easter sepulchre. The +east wall has two recesses, one of which may have contained a piscina, +while the other (Fig. 1363) is an ambry of an ornamental character, but +evidently of very late date. There is also a window in this wall placed +at a very high level, and out of the centre (see Fig. 1362). The gables +are finished with crowsteps, and on the south skew putts there are +shields + +[Illustration: FIG. 1363.--Chapel at the Kirkton of Kilmahew. + +Ambry In East Wall.] + +(Fig. 1364), that at the south-west end containing the sacred monogram +I. H. S., and that at the south-east end the initials M. C. In the east +gable, which has a set-off above the wall-head, there is a window placed +so as to light an upper room in the roof, which probably formerly +existed. + +The nave measures 34 feet 7 inches in length by 19 feet 8 inches in +width over the walls, which are thinner than those of the choir. There +is a doorway in the west end, and the enclosure contains some flat +monuments lying on the ground, which commemorate some of the Napiers of +Kilmahew and Buchanans of Drum (1789-80). This enclosure probably +occupies the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1364.--Chapel at the Kirkton of Kilmahew. + +South Skew Putts.] + +site of the original nave, but the wall appears to have been rebuilt. +There was apparently a nave in existence in 1640, as it was the chapel +“bewest the quir” which Robert Napier then agreed to give as a school. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1365.--Canonby Priory. Sedilia.] + + + + +CANONBY PRIORY, DUMFRIESSHIRE. + + +“Some remains of this canonry were, until recently, visible at +Halgreen.... A portion of the ancient church (the sedilia) may be seen +in the churchyard.”[171] + +This priory was founded during the reign of David I. by Turgot de +Rossendal, near the junction of the Esk and Liddel, and was destroyed by +the English after the battle of Solway Moss in 1542. The annexed +illustration (Fig. 1365) shows the only fragment that survives. It is +probably of thirteenth century work (but was omitted in Vol. II.) + +The priory, as the residence of the canons, became known as Canonbie. + + + + +KIRKBRYDE CHURCH, DUMFRIESSHIRE.[172] + + +A ruin situated five or six miles south-east from Sanquhar. + +The church (Fig. 1366) measures 42 feet 4 inches in length by 14 feet 6 +inches wide inside. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1366.--Kirkbryde Church. Plan.] + +There is a north chapel, measuring about 10 feet by 9 feet 3 inches, +opening into the church by a round arch. + +The east wall (Fig. 1367), on which is the belfry, is almost entire, as +is also the greater part of the west wall and the south wall (Fig. +1368). The north wall is pretty well preserved at the east end, as well +as the chapel and north archway (Fig. 1369). At the west end the north +wall is very fragmentary. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1367.--Kirkbryde Church. East Elevation.] + +The doorway in the south wall has a pointed arch cut out of two stones +(see Fig. 1368). There are three windows on the south side of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1368.--Kirkbryde Church. South Elevation.] + +the church (see Fig. 1368). One of them is entire, and has a pointed +arch cut out of two stones. A kind of shoulder is wrought on the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1369.--Kirkbride Church. View from North-West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1370.--Kirkbride Church. + +Window in South Wall.] + +stone above the arch (Fig. 1370). The east window is square lintelled, +and is provided with strong iron bars. There are no windows in the north +wall. + +The masonry of the north chapel is of a better kind than that of the +main building. The opening arch is about 7 feet 2 inches wide, and is +entirely plain, without even a splay on the edge. + + + + +ST. CUTHBERT’S, MOFFAT, DUMFRIESSHIRE. + + +On a hill on the opposite side of the River Annan from the town of +Moffat stand the small remains of St. Cuthbert’s Church. + +The building is believed to have been originally erected by the Knights +Templars, who had considerable possessions in this locality. All that +now remains of the structure is a portion of what appears to have been +the west wall, containing parts of a pointed window (Fig. 1371), which +has been divided into three lights by two mullions, one of which, and +one arch and half of another, only remain. The three lights had sharply +pointed openings, and the principal arch had two splays on its ingoing. +The design might belong to almost any period of Gothic, but the form +adopted was common in late work. + +The east wall of the church appears to have been made available as part +of a farmhouse, and its features are quite obliterated. Considerable +foundations of other structures are observable in the grassy mounds +scattered around. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1371.--St. Cuthbert’s, Moffat.] + + + + +SANQUHAR CHURCH, DUMFRIESSHIRE. + + +The old church of Sanquhar was demolished in 1827, and the present +church was built partly on its site, as indicated by the dotted lines +shown + +[Illustration: FIG. 1372.--Sanquhar Church. Plan.] + +on the Plan (Fig. 1372). In 1895 Lord Bute had excavations made, which +partly revealed the Plan now submitted.[173] + +The position of the east wall was thus determined, as likewise that of +the east end of the north wall with one buttress, and considerable +portions of the south wall throughout its whole length, with indications +of three buttresses and the return of the west wall at the south-west + +[Illustration: FIG. 1373.--Sanquhar Church. + +Effigy.] + +corner. The dimensions of the building were ascertained to be about 96 +feet from east to west by about 30 feet 6 inches from north to south +over the walls. The angle buttresses shown at the east end are +conjectural, and are based on a tradition that the corners of the +existing church were copied from the form of the east end of the old +church. + +Mr. Schultz states that an old burial list, of which the date is +uncertain, but which may be of the seventeenth or early eighteenth +century, alludes to certain graves which can still be recognised as so +many feet from the “queer pillar” (buttress), _i.e._, the buttress +opposite which the chancel arch is represented. Mr. Schultz assumes from +this that the choir or “queer” extended as far as this buttress; and the +fact that a splayed base was found all along the choir wall as far as +this point, and that no such splay existed farther west, gives a certain +sanction to the above view, as does also the circumstance that the nave +or western part of the building had no buttresses. It is frequently +found that the eastern end was treated in a different manner from the +west end. A foundation was found inside the building, at a distance of +about 6 feet from the east wall, and it is conjectured that this may +represent the seat of an altar. The windows, of which several stones +were found, appear to have had single mullions with simple pointed +arches. + +Although only demolished in this century, there does not appear to be +any view of the old church known. It is described by Symson, in his +_Large Description of Galloway_, “as a considerable and large fabrick, +consisting of a spacious church and stately quire, where are the tombs +of the Lord Crichtons of Sanquhar, wrought in freestone, and before them +some Lords of the name of Ross.”[174] + +The effigy of an ecclesiastic (Fig. 1373) was taken from Sanquhar to +Friars Carse when the old church was demolished, but it has recently +been brought back by Lord Bute. + + + + +CARNOCK CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. + + +A ruinous structure comprising some fragments of the ancient parish +church which was remodelled soon after the Reformation. The church (Fig. +1374) now measures, internally, about 42 feet in length by 17 feet 6 +inches in width. The east end contains one narrow, but complete, pointed +window, with a simple jamb moulding, and the remains of another similar +window, both having wide internal splays. Another narrow + +[Illustration: FIG. 1374.--Carnock Church. Plan.] + +pointed window yet exists in the north wall, but in the south wall the +windows have been enlarged. The west wall (Fig. 1375) has been rebuilt +or heightened, and a belfry of Renaissance style erected upon it. A +round-headed doorway has been inserted in each of the north and south +walls, and the round arch of the south door now stands detached. A south +porch has also been added (see Fig. 1375) with a stone seat on each +side, and having a round-headed entrance with large bead on jambs and +arch. Two small windows near the ground at the west end seem to +indicate that there has been a gallery above them at that end. The +church is now disused, but still stands in the old churchyard, and is +greatly covered with ivy. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1375.--Carnock Church. View from South-West.] + +John Row, the ecclesiastical historian, was minister of this parish from +1592 to 1646. It is situated about three miles west from Dunfermline. + + + + +DYSART CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. + + +This church has already been illustrated and described at length;[175] +but as it is a building of considerable importance, it is introduced +here in order to illustrate some points not formerly brought out. The +edifice is a long parallelogram, with central avenue and north and south +aisles, and is fairly entire along its whole length, except the outer +wall of the north aisle. It has a lofty pele-like tower quite entire at +the west end of the south aisle (Fig. 1376), which enters from the +interior of the church by a doorway about 10 feet above the floor. + +The tower is strong and quite capable of resisting a considerable +attack. The main arcade is supported chiefly on round pillars, but at +intervals the piers may be described as portions of the wall, as they + +[Illustration: FIG. 1376.--Dysart Church. View from North-East.] + +extend to five feet and even 9 feet in length, and have rounded ends +corresponding to the intermediate pillars. The pillars at the east end +are gone, but there were probably seven bays in the whole internal +length of 135 feet. The tower occupies one bay at the west end of the +surviving bays. Only the bay adjoining the tower on the south + +[Illustration: FIG. 1377.--Dysart Church. South and East Side of Tower.] + +side and the two bays opposite on the north side now remain (see Fig. +1376). The centre pillar on the north side is low, and supports lofty +pointed arches. The second piers from the west are the large ones +already described. Their caps are, as will be seen, at different +levels, being higher on the east side than the west. The arcade to the +eastwards may thus have been round arched, at all events the arches were +not so acutely pointed as the western ones. The corbels for supporting +the rafters of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1378.--Dysart Church. + +Niche on South Porch.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1379.--Dysart Church. + +Cap in North Aisle.] + +the roof are visible along the north face of the tower, and those for +supporting the roof of the north aisle, with the drip moulding above, +will be observed over the two arches at the west end, there being no +stone vaulting used in the building. Fig. 1377 shows the east and south +sides + +[Illustration: FIG. 1380. + +Dysart Church. + +Cap of Piers at south Aisle and North-West Respond.] + +of the tower, and the large south porch with its stone covered roof and +round arched doorway, over which is the canopied niche (Fig. 1378), and +the bracket, ornamented with the pot of lilies, for supporting a statue. +The figure was therefore probably one of the Virgin. The windows in the +south aisle wall were (some of them at least) square headed. + +Fig. 1379 shows the capital of the pillar in the north aisle as far as +it can be seen, on account of the modern wall in which it is almost +lost. It is formed to the shape of the double splayed arch moulding, and +dies off into the round pillar below. The mouldings of the cap indicate +very late work. Fig. 1380 is a still simpler cap from the south aisle +and from the north-west respond. + + + + +KILCONQUHAR CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. + + +A small ruin consisting of three arches of an old church, which stood on +the ancient site before the present modern structure was erected in the +immediate vicinity. The village of Kilconquhar is situated on a large +loch about one mile and a half north-west from Elie. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1381.--Kilconquhar Church. View from South-West.] + +The name is derived from the ancient Saint Connacher. There is little of +the history of the church preserved. It was granted in 1200 by Duncan, +Earl of Fife, to the Convent of North Berwick, and in 1266, after a +controversy between the Laird of Kilcomath and the prioress of North + +[Illustration: FIG. 1382.--Kilconquhar Church. Plan.] + +Berwick regarding the right of patronage, it was resigned into the hands +of the Convent.[176] + +The three arches (Fig. 1381) are all that now survive of the old +church. They probably formed the arcade between the centre and side +aisle, but there is nothing to show how the rest of the building was +placed with reference to them. The north wall of the enclosure of a +burying-place (shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1382) has an ancient look, +and may be part of the old church. + +The arches have plain splays. The round pillars have caps formed by a +single hollow without any necking, and the bases are formed with a +splay. Both caps and bases follow the curve of the pillars. They +indicate a structure of very late date, probably about the time of the +Reformation. + + + + +KILRENNY CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. + + +The village and church of Kilrenny stand about one mile inland from the +coast at Anstruther. The only record before the Reformation is that in +1268 a pension was given to the vicar, who in 1336 was a certain +“John.”[177] The tower of the church (Fig. 1383) is old, and is attached +to a modern edifice. It is of the form common in Fife about the time of +the Reformation, being carried up (Fig. 1384) without buttresses or +ornament, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1383.--Kilrenny Church. Plan of Tower, &c.] + +and having a parapet supported on corbels similar to those used in the +castles of the period. There are traces of a large arch in the east wall +of the tower, and another in the south wall, as if intended to open into +a building, possibly the old church. The mark of the roof over the +building on the south side still remains, and also a portion of a thick +wall running southwards from the tower. In the internal angles of the +tower there are square shafts with rude caps, apparently intended to +support a vault, but there are now no traces of any vaulting. There are +also the remains of a two-light window in the north wall of the tower. +Attached to the west end of the tower is a stately monument erected by +the family of Lumsdaine of Innergelly. + +In the churchyard of Kilrenny may still be seen the monument of Cardinal +Bethune or Beaton. It is an enclosure which stands to the eastward + +[Illustration: FIG. 1384.--Kilrenny Church. Tower, &c., from +South-West.] + +of the church, built with ashlar and ornamented with Ionic pillars. The +frieze and cornice are unfortunately wanting. + +The entrance is in the east end, and in the opposite wall is a +well-carved representation of the arms of Bethune of Balfour, viz., +quarterly, 1st and 4th, azure a fesse between three mascles, or, for +Bethune; 2nd and 3rd, argent on a chevron sable an otter’s head erased +of the first, for Balfour. Crest, an otter’s head proper; motto, +“Debonnaire.” + + + + +ROSYTH CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. + + +A ruin situated on the shore of the Frith of Forth about five miles west +from North Queensferry and about one mile east of Charleston. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1385.--Rosyth Church. Plan.] + +Part of the structure is ancient, but the western portion has been added +in post-Reformation times. All that now remains of the building consists + +[Illustration: FIG. 1386.--Rosyth Church. View from North-East.] + +(Fig. 1385) of the east wall and gable, and a considerable part of the +north wall. The east end (Fig. 1386) contains two narrow pointed windows +with a simple moulding on the outside, which is returned round the sill. +The moulding (see Fig. 1386) is rebated on the exterior for a shutter. +The ingoings are widely splayed and have pointed rear arches. The +ancient part of the north wall is built with ashlar work, the stones +being of a cubic form, resembling Norman work, and the mortar is well +washed out of the joints. The remainder of the north wall is built with +irregular courses, and the wall opening has a straight lintel. There is +an ambry in the north wall near the east end, and a recess in the wall +near the doorway. The church has been 15 feet wide internally, and +probably about 50 feet in length. + + + + +THE CHURCH OF THE DOMINICANS OR BLACKFRIARS, ST. ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. + + +Amongst the many remains of religious establishments still visible in +this old ecclesiastical centre, the ruins of a small part of the Church +of the Blackfriars are prominent from their situation, being an ivy clad +fragment of the church which stands detached in the grounds of the +Madras College, and forms a conspicuous object close to South Street, +one of the leading thoroughfares of the town. + +The Dominicans or Friars preachers were introduced into Scotland in 1231 +by Bishop Clement of Dunblane, and they were encouraged by Alexander +II., who founded eight houses of the order in the principal towns of +Scotland. This order was brought to St. Andrews by Bishop William +Wishart, well known from the great works carried out by him at the +cathedral. + +Bishop Elphinstone, the distinguished prelate of Aberdeen and founder of +the University in that city, died in 1514, leaving a sum of £10,000, +part of which Prior Hepburn of St. Andrews succeeded in obtaining from +the executor, Sir Thomas Myrton, Archdeacon of Aberdeen, for the purpose +of rebuilding the convent of the Friars preachers in St. Andrews. In +connection with this arrangement, the provincial of the order, John +Adamson, a great reformer, held a chapter at Stirling in 1519, in which +the revenues of the convent at Cupar and part of those of St. Monans +were transferred to St. Andrews, while these convents were +suppressed.[178] + +No record is preserved of the buildings erected at this time, but +probably the church was rebuilt and a series of domestic structures +erected round a quadrangle on the south side of the church. The +monastery was attacked and pillaged by the mob in 1560. The possessions +of the convent had been gradually disposed of in the beginning of the +sixteenth century, and after the Reformation the monastery was +abandoned, and the buildings gradually fell to pieces, the materials +being carried off in the usual manner. + +The only portion now surviving is an apsidal wing or chapel (Fig. 1387) +which projected from the north side of the church. It is 26 feet long by +21 feet in width internally. The three-sided form of the north end is +not uncommon in the sixteenth century in Scotland, but it is not usually +adopted in side chapels or transepts, being generally reserved for the +east end of the chancel. At Ladykirk, Berwickshire, however, we have an +example of the three-sided apse introduced in the chancel, and also + +[Illustration: FIG. 1387.--Church of the Dominicans or Blackfriars, St. +Andrews. Plan of North Chapel.] + +in the north and south transepts. There is a window in each of the three +sides of the apse (Fig. 1388), the central one containing four lights +and the diagonal windows three lights. A large window in the west wall +has also four lights. The tracery in the windows has been renewed in +modern times in a somewhat imperfect manner. The buttresses on the +exterior angles have been almost entirely carried away. The altar +probably stood on the east side, where there is an ambry, with the +arch-head carved with a debased form of tracery. There seems to have +been a doorway in the east wall, now built up. + +The vaulting of the chapel (see Fig. 1388) is partly preserved. That +over the square portion is a pointed barrel vault with ribs, arranged +in sexpartite form. The ribs spring from corbels and small shafts. One +of the corbels is carved with the Hepburn arms. The central boss of the +vault bears the heart surrounded with two hands and feet, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1388.--Church of the Dominicans or Blackfriars, St. +Andrews. North Chapel.] + +emblems of the Passion. The vault of the apse is broken away, but it has +been divided into three panels by ribs rising to a point at the apex. +The vaulting of the main part of the chapel is of plain barrel form, +and the cross ribs are introduced as ornaments on the surface, a common +arrangement in late work. The ribs of the apse spring from two vaulting +shafts rising from corbels, the caps of which have shields bearing the +Hepburn arms (on a chevron a rose between two lions rampant). The +chevron is still distinguishable. From the threefold repetition of these +arms, it is supposed that this chapel was erected by Prior Hepburn, as a +memorial and, perhaps, a burial chapel. The responds at the entrance, +with their caps and other details, are of the third pointed period, and +correspond with the date when the chapel was erected. A row of plain +corbels, visible over the main arch, doubtless supported the roof of the +principal nave of the church. + + + + +THE CHURCH OF ST. LEONARD’S COLLEGE, ST. ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. + + +In the middle of the thirteenth century the Hospitium or Guest Hall of +St. Leonard’s was founded by Prior John White, for the reception of +pilgrims and visitors to St. Andrews. Some remains of the Guest Hall + +[Illustration: FIG. 1389.--Church of St. Leonard’s College, St. Andrews. +Plan.] + +have recently been excavated in the ground eastward from St. Leonard’s +Church, from which it appears that it was a hall with central nave and +two side aisles. The building was afterwards converted into a nunnery. +In 1512 it was appropriated for a college. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1390.--Church of St. Leonard’s College, St. Andrews. +South Side.] + +This college was founded by John Hepburn, Prior of St. Andrews, in +conjunction with Archbishop Alexander Stewart. It remained under the +authority of the prior and chapter, and was designed for the education +of twenty-four poor students. The college, however, soon became famed +for its learning, and was attended by sons of the nobility. The students +were specially instructed in music, and helped to spread a knowledge of +sacred music throughout the country. George Buchanan, the well-known +scholar, was at one time Principal. + +The chapel (Fig. 1389) is a simple oblong chamber, being, internally, +about 80 feet in length by 20 feet 6 inches in width, and has no +division between chancel and nave. The design of the windows and +buttresses (Fig. 1390) accords well with the date of erection in the +sixteenth century, being in the perpendicular style, such as is common +in the colleges in England. The windows are all square-headed, and the +three-light ones have the heads of the lights cusped like quatrefoils. +The church appears, from the marks in the walls, to have been extended +24 feet at the east end, probably at the time when it was converted into +the college. + +On the north side of the church is a room with a round barrel vault, +probably the sacristy. From the door of the sacristy a narrow passage +runs along the east end of the church in the thickness of the wall, and +from it there are two loops into the church. Above this passage, and +also in the thickness of the wall, another narrow passage is constructed +in the east wall, which is continued round in the north wall as far as +the vault of the sacristy extends. There is a shallow piscina in the +east window sill. The west end has a door in the centre, and three +remarkable niches above it. They have the appearance of having been +placed there in recent times, when the west end was rebuilt. The arms of +Prior Hepburn are inserted in this wall, and they are also carved on one +of the south buttresses. + +There are no windows in the north wall, but the interior contains +several good Renaissance monuments. In the floor is the flat tombstone +of John Wynram, Superintendent of Fife, who died in 1582; and against +the north wall is the monument of Robert Stewart, Earl of March, who was +commendator of the priory after the Regent Moray’s death. + +The church was for long used for public worship, but after the College +of St. Leonards was united to that of St. Salvator in 1747, the former +was abandoned in 1759. + +A long range of buildings on the south side of the church was occupied +as the students’ lodgings, but these were also abandoned, and have now +been converted into private residences. + +Several alterations were likewise made on the church within recent +times, the steeple being taken down, and the west end “set back,” so as +to give more room for access to one of the private houses. + + + + +CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY, ST. ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. + + +[Illustration: FIG. 1391.--Church of the Holy Trinity, St. Andrews. +Tower, from North-East.] + +This church, usually called the Town Church, is of ancient foundation, +but was almost entirely rebuilt at the end of last century. The church +which was then demolished is believed to have been erected in 1412. The +north-west tower (Fig. 1391) is the only part of the old structure which +survives. Like the north-west tower at Cupar it rises from the north and +west walls of the north aisle, without buttresses to mark its outline or +break the upright form of the walls. The square outline, however, is +partly relieved by a square projection at the north-west angle, which +contains the staircase. The east and south walls are carried by arches, +which formerly allowed the lower story of the tower to be included +within the church, and the round pier at the south-east angle is made of +extra thickness, so as to bear the weight of the tower. The tower is +carried up square to the parapet with only a string course beneath the +windows of the belfry story. In the latter trefoil-headed double windows +are introduced, except on the north side, where a mullioned window is +inserted between the stair turret and the east angle. The parapet is +plain and rests on simple corbels. Above this rises an octagonal spire, +with lucarnes. The spire is rather short and stunted, like most of the +late Scottish examples. + +Over the staircase a small turret with pointed roof is carried up within +the parapet, and groups picturesquely with the main spire. The tower +resembles that at Wester Crail, and, like it, is of fifteenth century +date. + + + + +AIRLIE CHURCH, FORFARSHIRE. + + +Two relics of the ancient church of St. Medan (demolished 1783) have +been preserved, one being a mutilated figure of St. John the Baptist +(Fig. 1392) built into the west gable of the existing church, and the +other a sacrament house (Fig. 1393) inserted in the wall under + +[Illustration: FIG. 1392.--Airlie Church. + +Figure in Tower.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1394.--Airlie Church. + +Belfry.] + +the stair to the gallery. The sacrament house is of rude design and +workmanship, and is evidently of very late date. The ambry has an +opening 10½ inches in width, and its size over all is 2 feet 5 inches in +height by 21 inches in width. It has, as usual in such features, a broad +base surmounted by the recess to contain the consecrated host. The +opening is finished with an ogee arch-head having a cable-moulding on +the jambs and arch, and a fleur-de-lys on top. As usual the ambry is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1393.--Airlie Church. Sacrament House. + +(From Sketch kindly supplied by Mr. Archibald M‘Pherson, architect.)] + +flanked by small buttresses. In the panels at the spandrils there are +carved on one side a cross with a crown of thorns, and on the other the +heart, with hands and feet showing the five wounds of the Passion. + +The back of the ambry is formed with a stone containing the initials W. +F., and the arms of the Fentons of Baikie, which are turned upside down, +probably by mistake, when rebuilt in the present position. + +The belfry of the church (Fig. 1394) is a good example of a structure of +that description of the date it bears (1783). + + + + +INVERGOWRIE CHURCH, FORFARSHIRE. + + +A simple oblong ruin situated about three miles west from Dundee. The +site is associated with the Celtic Church, and is one of the churches +believed to have been founded by St. Boniface, in Angus, about the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1395.--Invergowrie Church. Plan.] + +beginning of the seventh century, Restennet being another.[179] Several +fine sculptured stones of an early period are still preserved in the +building. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1396.--Invergowrie Church. View from South-East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1397. + +Invergowrie Church. + +South Window.] + +Between 1153 and 1165 the Church of St. Peter, Invergowrie, was given to +Scone by Malcolm IV.; but of this early structure nothing whatever +remains, and the existing building is probably not earlier than the +first half of the sixteenth century. The walls of the structure (Fig. +1395) are entire, although the west gable hangs in a very tottering +manner. The building measures inside about 46 feet in length by 15 feet +9 inches in width. There are two doorways in the south wall (Fig. 1396), +the one towards the west end being round-arched, but not built on the +arch principle, being cut out of two large stones. The other doorway is +lintelled. There are two windows also in the south wall, the one being +round-arched and cusped (Fig. 1397) and having the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1398. + +Invergowrie Church. + +Cross-like Object.] + +arch cut out of a single stone. The other window is lintelled and had a +central mullion. There is a high window in the west gable, and a west +doorway, which probably dates from Presbyterian times. A stoup adjoins +the western doorway in the interior of the south wall, and a locker +recess occurs in the east gable. Lying inside the church there is the +curious cross-like object (Fig. 1398). It is pierced in the centre, and +appears to have had a shaft, which is broken, as shown. + + + + +MAINS CHURCH, FORFARSHIRE. + + +This fragment of a church is situated in the centre of its churchyard, +on the margin of a romantic glen, on the opposite side of which stands +the ruined Castle of Mains, in the region of Strath Dichty, about three +miles north from Dundee. The remains consist of a small building which +projected from the south side of the church, and which Mr. Muir[180] +calls “the sacristy of the demolished church of Mains.” The view (Fig. +1399) shows three lancet windows in the south gable, which are of very +simple design, having merely a splay on their outer edge. The place is +locked up, but Mr. Muir says that the windows have separate rear-arches. + +Over the window there is a very beautiful sculptured fragment +representing the Annunciation. It is sadly wasted, the head of the +Virgin, and what may have been the descending dove, being an indistinct +mass. The lower part of the figure, however, is well preserved, and is +extremely graceful. The figure of the angel, although wasted, is in good +preservation, while the scroll and pot of lilies are fairly distinct. +Beneath the pot there is a shield on which are visible two piles issuing +from a chief, with the remains of what may be mullets or annulets on the +piles. There were probably three piles at first. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1399.--Mains Church. Surviving Fragment.] + +The Church of Mains belonged to the Abbey of Arbroath. + +There is a sundial, of more recent date than the building, carved on the +south-west corner, similar to the sundials on the porch of Linlithgow +Church and on the south transept of Melrose. + + + + +MARYTON CHURCH, FORFARSHIRE.[181] + + +Maryton Church is situated about two miles south-west of Montrose. + +The fine grave slab (Fig. 1400) was found by Mr. Robertson lying broken +and uncared for; and at his suggestion the minister, Mr. Fraser, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1400.--Maryton Church. Grave Slab.] + +had it removed and placed in the church vestry. The upper part is +occupied with a finely incised figure of a knight in sixteenth century +costume, and the lower portion is occupied with the arms, supporters, +helmet, and mantling. The arms are, an oak tree growing out of a mount +(for Wood of Bonyton), between two cross crosslets (for Tulloch of +Bonyton). Walter or William Wood married Dorothy Tulloch, one of the +co-heiresses of Bonyton, sometime before 4th January 1493, in which year +they got a confirmation of a charter by James IV. An inscription can +still be partly traced round the slab, and it is believed to date from +1530. + + + + +PERT CHURCH, FORFARSHIRE.[182] + + +An old church situated on the North Esk about midway between Montrose +and Edzell. The building (Fig. 1401) is in a state of ruin and covered +with ivy. It measures in the inside about 43 feet from east to west by +about 18 feet in width. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1401.--Pert Church. Plan.] + +There is a door in each of the north and south walls near the opposite +ends, which have square lintels with rounded shoulders, as shown in Fig. +1402; and three narrow lancet windows (Figs. 1402 and 1403), two in the +east wall and one + +[Illustration: FIG. 1402.--Pert Church. + +Doorway and Window.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1403.--Pert Church. + +Central Buttress.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1404.--Pert Church. + +Belfry.] + +in the west wall. These windows are about 12 inches wide, and have the +arches cut out of two stones, with wide splays towards the interior. +Between the two, in the east gable, there is a central buttress with +splayed base (see Fig. 1403). + +These features appear to indicate that this was originally rather an +early church, probably of about the close of the first pointed period, +but it appears to have been almost rebuilt, probably in the fifteenth +century. + +The belfry on the west gable (Fig. 1404) is even later, and bears the +date of 1676. + + + + +ST. VIGEAN’S CHURCH, FORFARSHIRE.[183] + + +This church is pleasantly situated at the head of a little valley +through which winds the stream of the Brothock, at a distance of between +one and two miles north from Arbroath or Aberbrothock. Previous to the +Reformation it was the parish church of Arbroath. The edifice stands on +the top of a regularly shaped mound, and occupies nearly the whole of +the summit. It has been the site of a religious settlement from a very +remote period, far earlier than the erection of the great abbey at +Arbroath. This is shown by several Norman wrought stones that have been +found on the site, as well as a large and most important group of +elaborately carved sculptured stones, relics of the Celtic church which +once stood here. Vigianus has been recognised as the Latinised form of +the name of St. Fechin of Fohbar, an Irish saint who died in 664. Dr. +Joseph Anderson mentions that the twelfth century builders had utilised +a large quantity of fragments of sculptured monuments as building +materials.[184] + +In 1871, under the direction of Dr. R. Rowand Anderson, architect, the +church was restored and considerable additions were made to it. A large +polygonal apse, with massive buttresses, was built at the east end, a +second aisle was formed on the north side of the existing north aisle, +and the tower was raised and finished with a saddle-back roof. At the +same time a new roof and internal fittings were added, making the +edifice one of the most seemly parish churches in Scotland. + +Previous to this restoration, the structure consisted (as shown in Fig. +1405) of a central nave of eight bays, with north and south aisles, and +a western tower. The original Norman church appears to have occupied the +site of the north aisle, and to have extended in width to about the +centre + +[Illustration: FIG. 1405.--St. Vigean’s Church. View from South-East +(before 1871).] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1406.--St. Vigean’s Church, looking West.] + +of the present nave. Parts of the east and west gable walls still +remain. At a later period, probably about the middle of the fifteenth +century, the church was extended to the south, and was converted into a +building with a nave and a north aisle; and again at a still later +period, in 1485, the south wall was taken down and a south aisle +erected. The north and south aisles correspond in a general way with +each other (Fig. 1406), and although the pillars on the north side are +round and those on the south side are octagonal, both have very simple +caps and bases, all of late form. + +The arches of the arcade on both sides are round with broad notched +splays. There are three clerestory windows on the north side, of a +square shape. They formerly had oak lintels on the inside, but these, +being decayed, were removed during the restoration, and the stone arches +shown in Fig. 1406 were put in. On the south side there are eight +clerestory windows, arched throughout. + +The west tower is not in the centre, but occupies the space between the +centre of the nave and the line of the south arcade. It appears to be an +addition, but its lower plain vaulted story was probably erected before +the addition of 1485, while the upper portion is of later construction. +There is an entrance through the tower to the church, which, from the +relative positions of the two, is not in the centre. The opening of a +flat arched form is shown in Fig. 1406. + +In 1242 Bishop de Bernham consecrated the Church of St. Vigean. It was +again consecrated, along with two altars and the cemetery, in 1485 after +the additions were built by Bishop George O’Brien, Bishop of Dromore, in +Ireland,[185] acting probably, as Dr. Duke says, for the Bishop of St. +Andrews. + + + + +MONASTERY OF RED OR TRINITY FRIARS, DUNBAR, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +This fragment (Fig. 1407) is all that remains of the monastery of the +Red Friars at Dunbar. The field in which it stands is still known as the +Friars’ Croft. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1407.--Monastery of Red or Trinity Friars, Dunbar. +Plan.] + +It is generally supposed[186] that this building was originally a belfry +of the monastery, and that it was, at a subsequent period, converted +into a pigeon house; but it is much more likely that, besides being the +belfry, it was also the pigeon house of the monastery from the first. It +appears to be still very much in its original state. The walls which +support the central portion (Fig. 1408), which rise from arches in the +interior (Fig. 1409) and give the structure its belfry-like aspect, are +evidently as old as any other part of the structure, and the supporting +arches with their corbels are not insertions. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1408.--Monastery of Red or Trinity Friars, Dunbar.] + +It will be observed that in order to get solidity and strength in the +walls under these arches, the nests or pigeon holes are almost entirely +left out in those portions (see Fig. 1409). The cross beam and upright +post seen in the sketch are old. The ladder, which is fixed, enabled a +man to go up and search for the eggs. + +This monastery was founded in 1218 by Patrick, sixth Earl of Dunbar, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1409.--Monastery of Red or Trinity Friars, Dunbar.] + +but these remains clearly belong to an age some two or three centuries +later. From the history above referred to, the monastery appears to have +been suppressed before the Reformation, about the year 1529, at which +date the brethren were translated to Peebles. + + + + +KEITH CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +On a knoll within the grounds of Keith House, situated about five miles +east from Tynehead Station, and a similar distance south from Ormiston, +stand the ruins of an ancient church. It is surrounded by an old +churchyard, and has a number of monuments erected against the south +wall. According to an inscription on a tablet fixed to the wall, this +edifice was “erected as a private chapel in the reign of David I. +(1224-53) by Hervie de Keith, King’s Marischal; in the reign of +Alexander II. (1214-49) it became the church of the parish of Keith +Marischal; in 1618 this parish was joined to that of Keith Hunderbey, +now called Humby.”[187] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1410.--Keith Church. Plan.] + +The church (Fig. 1410) is now a ruin and is covered with a thick growth +of ivy. It measures, internally, 59 feet 8 inches in length by 14 feet +in width at the east end, and 15 feet in width at the west end. The east +end is apparently the oldest portion, the east wall and north wall, as +far as the break shown in the Plan, and a corresponding portion of the +south wall being faced with ashlar. The remainder of the structure, +westwards from the above, is built with rubble, and is apparently of +later date. The north wall is much broken down, but the other walls are +in fair preservation. The east end, as viewed from the interior (Fig. +1411) (where the growth of ivy allows the features to be tolerably +seen), is an unusual and rather striking design, consisting of two +narrow lancet windows, widely splayed internally, and a large +vesica-formed opening above them. These windows have a broad double +splay on the exterior of the jambs and arches. + +One round-headed and cusped window survives in the south wall close to +the east end (Fig. 1412), and the Plan shows that there has been another +window adjoining, but it is now built up. The west end wall (Fig. 1413) + +[Illustration: FIG. 1411.--Keith Church. Interior of East End.] + +contains a single small pointed window, evidently of a late date. So far +as can now be ascertained from the building the east end or chancel is +comparatively ancient, probably of the beginning of the sixteenth +century, and the remainder has been rebuilt not long after the +Reformation. + +A good seventeenth century monument is erected against the south wall +(see Fig. 1412). + +[Illustration: FIG. 1412.--Keith Church. View from South-East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1413.--Keith Church. West Wall.] + + + + +ST. PALLADIUS’ CHURCH, FORDOUN, KINCARDINESHIRE. + + +The village of Fordoun lies in the picturesque glen of the Luther Water, +about 2½ miles west from Fordoun Railway Station. The name of Saint +Palladius, the early “apostle of the Scots,” is attached to a small + +[Illustration: FIG. 1414.--St. Palladius’ Church, Fordoun. Plan.] + +chapel which stands in the churchyard surrounding the parish church. Dr. +Skene’s opinion[188] is that Palladius was sent to Ireland (then the +country of the Scots) and that Terrananus or Ternan, his disciple, +brought + +[Illustration: FIG. 1415.--St. Palladius’ Church, Fordoun. View from +South-West.] + +his relics either from Ireland or from Galloway (in one of which places +he had been martyred) to his native district in the territories of the +Southern Picts, and as the founder of the church of Fordoun, in honour +of Palladius, became to some extent identified with him. Be that as it +may, the name of Palladius has been handed down from the fifth century +in connection with a religious establishment in the place. A chapel, a +well, and an annual fair are named after him. The small chapel which now +bears the name of the Saint is a modern restoration. It is a plain +oblong structure (Fig. 1414), 39 feet by 18 feet internally. The walls +are low, and there is a pointed gable at each end (Fig. 1415). The east +wall has a recess, which probably contained a monument, and the west +wall a round-headed entrance doorway. There are three small +square-headed windows in the south wall and a doorway in the north wall. + +The east end is probably the oldest part. There is a burial-vault +beneath it. An ambry with round head near the north door, and a plain +pointed piscina at the south side of the eastern recess, are the only +ancient appurtenances. + +A chapel here is frequently mentioned in the records of the Priory of +St. Andrews. It is not called a church till 1244.[189] + +The Friars’ Glen, which runs north-westward from Fordoun, was, in the +fifteenth century, in the possession of the Carmelite Friars of +Aberdeen. + + + + +OLD GIRTHON CHURCH, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE.[190] + + +A roofless ruin (Fig. 1416), about two miles south of Gatehouse, with +walls fairly entire. It measures internally about 71 feet long by about +20 feet wide, and is lighted by windows in the south wall, and two high +narrow windows in the east end, over which, in the apex, there is a +shallow niche. There is only one small high window in the north wall. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1416.--Old Girthon Church. Plan.] + +The entrance door is in the south wall, not far from the centre of the +church. In each end of the church there is a doorway, but these are +probably modern. In the south wall, near the east end in the usual +position of the piscina, there is what Mr. Coles calls an ambry, +roughly formed out of a single stone. It is surrounded with a large +hollow moulding 4 inches wide, over which it measures 1 foot 8 inches +wide by 2 feet 6 inches high, and 9 inches in depth. + +Mr. Muir[191] classes Girthon with a number of other churches which may +be either of the Norman or first pointed period. + + + + +BLANTYRE PRIORY, LANARKSHIRE. + + +The fragmentary ruins of this structure are situated on the left bank of +the Clyde near Bothwell, at a point where the river forms a sudden bend +from west to north, and where the priory is confronted on the opposite +side by the great donjon of Bothwell Castle. The eastern walls of the +priory stand on the very edge of a precipice, which rises perhaps 80 or +100 feet above the river. The buildings at this part are situated on +fairly level ground, but immediately to the west the ground rises +rapidly, so that the cloister garth (Fig. 1417) and the western +enclosing walls are on a considerably higher level than the main +buildings. The ruins cover a space of ground measuring about 150 feet +from east to west by about 115 feet from north to south. The western +enclosing wall is from 5 to 10 feet in height, and the northern wall +stands to the height of about 10 feet. The southern wall is nearly all +gone, except a part at the return of the buildings at the east and west +ends. + +At the north-east corner stands a two-storied structure, the walls of +which, except the south one, are almost entire. This was probably the +prior’s house. It enters by a doorway at the west end of the south wall, +and adjoining the door there appears to have been a stair to the upper +floor (which is the floor shown on the Plan), but the place is in so +confused a state with ruins and vegetation, that little regarding its +arrangement can be made out. The house contained two rooms, one at each +end, with the stair between. There are a fireplace and a window in each +gable, and the eastern window looks straight across the river to the +castle donjon. Along the north side of the house the ground is steep and +inaccessible. On the south side of this house there was a courtyard with +a building at the east end, the end wall of which still stands two +stories high, in continuation of the gable of the prior’s house. + +Adjoining this to the south is an apartment said, by the local guide, to +be the chapel. Of this, however, almost nothing remains, except a part +of the west wall, in which there is a stoup (Fig. 1418) hollowed out of +a stone wrought with all the appearance of a corbel, like those found in +the castles. On the face of the corbel is an incised cross. It is this +feature which has obtained for the apartment the name of the chapel. +There is a window in the west wall above the stoup, but with nothing of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1417.--Blantyre Priory. Plan.] + +an ecclesiastic character about it. This building does not appear to +have been the church. It is more likely that the latter was placed +somewhere about the line of the south boundary wall. It could not have +stood anywhere outside of what is shown in the Plan on the north side, +as in all this locality the ground is inaccessible. + +A ruined fragment stands at the south-east corner of the monastery. It +is a vaulted apartment, commanding the long reach of the river before + +[Illustration: FIG. 1418.--Blantyre Priory. + +Stoup.] + +it takes its northern bend. There is a narrow pathway in front of this +apartment, giving access to it. The path is protected from the cliff by +a parapet wall returned at the south end, where there is a shot hole. +This parapet has gone on to join the buildings at the prior’s house. + +The parish church of Blantyre stood in a village of the same name, and +belonged to the priory, which is said to have been founded for Austin +canons, and endowed with the tithes and revenues of the parish church, +by Alexander II. Spottiswoode asserts that Blantyre was a cell depending +on Holyrood. In _Bagimond’s Roll_ (1275), it is valued at £66, 13s. 4d. +Chalmers states that this small monastery was founded by Alexander II. +for canons regular brought from Jedburgh, and that the monks of Jedburgh +retired here during the war with England. + +The barony belonged to the Dunbars as far back as 1368. Walter Stewart, +son of the Laird of Minto, was made commendator by James VI., and the +Barony of Blantyre was erected, in 1606, into a temporal lordship in his +favour, with the title of Lord Blantyre. + + + + +COVINGTON CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE. + + +Covington is a hamlet in the Upper Ward, about four miles south from +Carstairs Junction. A church existed here from the time of David I., and +is frequently referred to in deeds. It stood near the Castle[192] of the +Lindsays of Covington, who acquired the manor before 1442, and was no +doubt in their gift and that of their predecessors in the property. The +dedication seems to have been to St. Michael.[193] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1420.--Covington Church. View from South-East.] + +The existing church (Fig. 1419) is of considerable age, but has been a +good deal tampered with. It stands in the old churchyard, no doubt on +the same site as the original edifice. The church is a simple oblong + +[Illustration: FIG. 1419.--Covington Church. Plan.] + +chamber 72 feet 3 inches in length and 22 feet 4 inches in breadth +externally. The old pointed windows (Fig. 1420) still remain in the +south wall, three of them having a mullion and simple tracery, that of +the eastmost being very good. The eastmost window has also good +mouldings in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1421. + +Covington Church. + +Mouldings of South-East Window.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1422. + +Covington Church. + +Arms in North Doorway.] + +the jambs and arch (Fig. 1421). The second window from the east is +narrow and ogee headed, and probably marks the position of the rood +screen. + +An old doorway remains, though built up, near the north-west angle. In +the arch there is inserted a shield (Fig. 1422) bearing the arms of the +Lindsays, to whom the castle belonged, and the letters W. L. and the +date 1659. + +The east end has been entirely altered, the east window having probably +been built up, and an outside stair erected to give access to a gallery +at that end. + + + + +AULDCATHIE CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. + + +Before the Reformation Auldcathie formed a separate parish, but it is +now included in the parish of Dalmeny, of which it forms a detached +portion. The ruins of the old church (Fig. 1423) now stand neglected in +the middle of a large field. The walls are much reduced, and are +gradually crumbling away, but the plan is still quite entire. The +structure measures, internally, about 30 feet in length by 15 feet in +width. There has been a door near the west end, both in the north and +south walls, two windows in the south wall, and none in either of the +north, east, or west walls. There is a recess for a benitier, an ambry, +near the south door, and an ambry in the east wall. Some more ancient +stones seem to have been + +[Illustration: FIG. 1423.--Auldcathie Church. Plan.] + +used in building the latter. The features are all so simple that it is +difficult to fix the date of the edifice, but it does not appear to be +very old. + +In the ancient _Taxatio_ this church is valued at only 4 marks. As it is +not taxed in _Bagimond’s Roll_, it appears to have belonged in the +thirteenth century to some religious house. + + +RESTALRIG COLLEGIATE CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN.[194] + +According to the legendary history of the Blessed Virgin Triduan, +Lestalrig or Restalrig, a village to the east of Edinburgh, might claim +a very great antiquity. Triduan is said to have died at Restalrig in the +year 510. + +A church can be traced here as early as the twelfth century, and it +afterwards became the parish church of Leith. This edifice is frequently +mentioned in connection with gifts bestowed upon it. The church of +Restalrig was erected into a Collegiate establishment by James III., and +was rebuilt by him, as stated in the Papal Bull of 1487. James IV. was +also a benefactor to the foundation, and endowed an additional chaplain +in 1512, and twelve years later another rectory was annexed to the +church by James V. + +The edifice has unfortunately been almost entirely destroyed. In 1560 it +was resolved “that the Kirk of Restalrig, as a monument of Idolatrie be + +[Illustration: FIG. 1424.--Restalrig Collegiate Church. Plan of Chapter +House.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1425.--Restalrig Collegiate Church. Section.] + +raysit and utterlie caste downe and destroyed.” This was apparently +done, as it is recorded that the ashlar work from the church was used by +a + +[Illustration: FIG. 1426.--Restalrig Collegiate Church. + +Jambs and Mouldings of Windows.] + +certain citizen “to big his hous with.” In 1836 the church was restored, +being practically rebuilt. + +In the churchyard, however, there still exists a somewhat remarkable +structure. Externally it is a mausoleum-like building, covered with +turf. It is sometimes supposed to be “the crypt or family vault erected +by Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig (who died 1440-41), by whom indeed it +may have been built, while it has been used as such by successive +proprietors.” “It was undoubtedly + +[Illustration: FIG. 1427.--Restalrig Collegiate Church. Vaulted Roof.] + +attached to the college, perhaps as the chapter house or St. Triduan’s +Chapel.” + +[Illustration: FIG. 1428. + +Restalrig Collegiate Church. + +Pier and Arch Ribs.] + +This building is a hexagon on plan (Fig. 1424), measuring 29 feet in +internal diameter, and stands about 3 feet from the south wall of the +church, against which the angle buttresses have impinged. + +On each of the three sides facing towards the south there is a window, +now built up, each of which has a very flat four-centred arch, and +contains three cusped lights (Fig. 1425), divided by two mullions. The +section of the jambs and mullions is shown in Fig. 1426. The roof is +vaulted (Fig. 1427) with ribs springing from a central pier, which has a +filleted roll towards each angle (Fig. 1428). + +[Illustration: FIG. 1429.--Restalrig Collegiate Church. + +Details of Carved Bosses and Caps.] + +The ribs of the vault are moulded, and there is a ridge rib running +round, with bosses and shields at the junctions with the other ribs (see +Fig. 1427). The ribs spring from the caps of the central pillar and the +caps of shafts in the angles. The style of the carving of these caps and +the foliage of the bosses is evidently of the third or late period (Fig. +1429). From its use as a sepulchral vault the floor has now been greatly +filled up with earth, which rises almost to the caps of the central +shaft and wall shafts. + +It is not known when the turf was piled up over the roof, but it is very +desirable that it should be removed, and the windows opened up, and the +interior cleaned out. It would then be seen to be, as Mr. Laing says, “a +charming specimen of the architecture of the fifteenth century.” + + + + +NEWLANDS CHURCH, PEEBLESSHIRE. + + +The ruined church of Newlands stands in the midst of the old churchyard, +in the retired and quiet valley of the Lyne, which flows southwards +towards the Tweed from near the foot of the Pentland Hills. It is about +four miles from West Linton Station on the Dolphinton Railway. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1430.--Newlands Church. Plan.] + +The church (Fig. 1430), which is a simple oblong in plan, is evidently +in some degree of ancient date; but it has been considerably altered in +post-Reformation times, in order to make it suitable for Presbyterian +service. For this purpose two large square-lintelled windows (Fig. 1431) +have been inserted in the south wall, and one doorway near the east end +of that wall (Fig. 1432) (the lintel of which bears the date of 1705). +The ancient round-arched doorway near the west end (see Fig. 1431) has +been + +[Illustration: FIG. 1431.--Newlands Church. View from South-West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1432.--Newlands Church. View from South-East.] + +preserved, and has also been made available in later times. The later +internal arrangements would thus be the usual Presbyterian ones, of +having the pulpit placed in the centre of the south wall, with a large +window on each side of it, and a central passage down the church, to +which access was obtained by the two doorways near the east and west +ends. + +The church was doubtless originally lighted by several small windows in +the south and west walls, and by a large pointed window in the east +wall. The latter (see Fig. 1432) and the round-headed doorway near the +west end of the south wall are the principal ancient features. The +doorway has a bead on edge, and a plain hood moulding. It has all the +appearance of being of early date. The east end is partly built with +ashlar, and has a moulded string course near the ground running along +part of it. The pointed window has double splays on the jambs and arch, +both in the interior and exterior. It has doubtless had mullions at one +time, but it is now impossible to find traces of them. The window is +doubtless of third pointed date. + +Various sepulchral enclosures have been added to the church, both +internally and externally. That at the west end (see Fig. 1431) has +probably had a coat of arms in the recess above the door, but it is now +gone. + +A number of quaintly carved tombstones of seventeenth and eighteenth +century date are still crumbling away in the churchyard. + +“The name of Newlands refers to the era when the lands lying around the +Kirktown were first brought into cultivation by Scoto-Saxon bands.”[195] +At the end of the thirteenth century Newlands belonged to the monks of +Dunfermline. In _Bagimond’s Roll_ the _Rectoia de Newland_, in the +Deanery of Peebles, is valued at £16. + + + + +CROSS CHURCH, PEEBLES. + + +The fragmentary ruins of the church of the monastery of the Redfriars +stand in the middle of a fir plantation immediately to the west of the +town of Peebles. All architectural interest connected with the edifice +has been destroyed. The freestone work which Grose specially commends +has been carried away, leaving only bare and ragged whinstone walls, and +giving the structure a very desolate appearance. The monastic buildings +were situated on the north side of the church; and the fir plantation, +which seems to represent their extent, runs in that direction for about +100 feet, with an average length from east to west of about 250 feet, +the whole extent of the plantation being a little less than an acre. It +is probable, from these dimensions, that the monastic buildings were +extensive, but, unfortunately, their destruction has been very complete. +The ruins of the nave remain (Fig. 1433), and measure, within the walls, +about 70 feet 6 inches from east to west by a width of 26 feet 9 +inches. Grose gives the length of the church as 102 feet, and there are +indications (see Plan) that it was longer at one time than it is now. +There is a tower at the west end, which measures about 20 feet by 21 +feet, and had an opening into the church, now built solidly up. From a +view of the church in Grose’s _Antiquities of Scotland_, the building +was evidently in a much better condition in 1790 than now. It appears to +have been then entire, wanting only the roof, and the tower was finished +with a projecting parapet and two gables, after the manner of a pele +tower. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1433.--Cross Church, Peebles. Plan.] + +So completely has the place been harried that little is left to +describe. There were three pointed windows in the south wall and one in +the east gable, the latter of which (Fig. 1434) still partly remains. +Against the north wall of the church there is an erection called the +Douglas vault, to which a door opens from the church. It is in a very +dilapidated state, although the vaulted roof is complete. Immediately to +the west of this vault, with a passage between of about 7 feet, there +are indications of other vaulted buildings, and similar indications are +found at the east end of the church, all in a very fragmentary +condition. In the historical books relating to the locality, a story is +repeated of the finding, on this site, of a magnificent cross in 1261, +of the miracles performed by it, and the ultimate founding of a church +by the king, which was called the Cross Church. Such a church existed in +1296, for Frere Thomas, Mestre de la Maison de Seint Croce, de Pebblis, +swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick.[196] + +At the Reformation the Cross Church became the church of the parish, and +on the lintel of the door at the east end are cut the words “Feir God,” +with the date 1656. A portion to the west of this may have been + +[Illustration: FIG. 1434.--Cross Church, Peebles. View from South-West.] + +the part, about 30 feet in length, which Grose says was walled off to +form a school, probably at the date just mentioned. + +The monastic buildings were used for various purposes, such as a school +and schoolmaster’s house, and for persons suffering from the plague, but +from about the beginning of the eighteenth century they gradually became +ruinous, and have now reached their present lamentable condition. + + + + +ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH, PEEBLES. + + +Rather less than a quarter of a mile west from the Cross Church there +stands the tower of St. Andrew’s Church. It has been so completely +restored or transformed by the late Dr. Chambers, that it is now of no +interest whatever as a specimen of the ancient architecture of Scotland. +A view of the tower as it appeared at the end of the eighteenth century +will be found in the _Antiquities of Scotland_ by Captain Grose; and on +the Ordnance Map there is a plan of the church, from which it may be +gathered that the tower was a western one, in a similar position to that +of the Cross Church. The plan shows a nave measuring about 75 feet long +by 40 feet wide, and a choir about 50 feet long, having apparently a +building of some kind, either an aisle or chapel, along the north side. +The total length of the building was about 140 feet. + +The Church of St. Andrew at Peebles was consecrated by Bishop Jocelin of +Glasgow in 1195.[197] St. Andrew’s was the parish church of Peebles. + +In 1543 this church was made Collegiate. In 1548 it was burned down by +the English, and never rebuilt. Captain Grose says that all the arches +of the doors and windows were semicircular. + + + + +ABERUTHVEN CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +A ruined church situated near the village of the same name, about two +and a half miles east from Auchterarder. The walls are almost entire, +except part of the south one, which has been knocked down to give room + +[Illustration: FIG. 1435.--Aberuthven Church. Plan.] + +for a mausoleum of the Montrose family, bearing the inscription “John +Adam--fecet 1736.” + +The church (Fig. 1435) measures, externally, 65 feet 2 inches by 21 feet +9 inches. Its only architectural features are a seventeenth century +belfry on the west end (Fig. 1436), and two small pointed windows (Fig. +1437) in the east end. The belfry, almost concealed with ivy, has long + +[Illustration: FIG. 1436.--Aberuthven Church. + +View from South-West.] + +narrow openings on the east and west sides, and small side openings. The +east windows are between 2 and 3 feet above the floor, and are about 8 +inches wide. The daylight of the northmost of these windows (Fig. 1438) +is 2 feet 8½ inches high, and for some inexplicable reason that of the +south window is about 4 inches less. Both have an ogee arch-head, and +are lintelled on the inside. There is an ambry in the north wall near +the east end. The usual set-off occurs on the east wall just above the +windows. + +The west end of the church is occupied by a modern burial vault and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1437.--Aberuthven Church. + +Interior of East End.] + +is not accessible, but it appears to be vaulted with a barrel vault. +Another burial vault occupies + +[Illustration: FIG. 1438.--Aberuthven Church. + +North Window in East Wall.] + +the centre of the building. The church was a cell of Inchaffray, and was +dedicated to St. Cathan. The existing structure is evidently of late +date. + + + + +ST. MOLOC’S CHURCH, ALYTH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +Alyth is now a busy manufacturing town, and forms the terminus of a +small branch line off the main railway between Perth and Forfar. It +stands on the north side of Strathmore, at the point where the hills +begin to rise, and the houses of the old part of the town are +picturesquely terraced on the hillside. On one of these terraces may be +seen the ruins of the ancient + +[Illustration: FIG. 1439.--St. Moloc’s Church, Alyth. Plan.] + +church of St. Moloc or Malachi, according to the _Statistical Account_, +but Mr. Muir calls it St. Ninian’s. The original fair of the village is +still called St. Mologue’s and the date corresponds with the day of St. +Moloc. Before the Reformation the benefice of Alyth was attached to one +of the prebends of Dunkeld, and the patronage was exercised by the +Bishop. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1440.--St Moloc’s Church, Alyth. Arcade.] + +The old church was demolished about 1845, having been unroofed at that +date when the last _Statistical Account_ was written. + +The portion which still survives (Fig. 1439) in the middle of the +churchyard consists of the south arcade of the nave and part of the +chancel. The arcade (Fig. 1440) has plain octagonal pillars and three +round arches with broad splays. The caps and bases are moulded, and +indicate a late date. + +The chancel is surrounded with a plain wall 6 to 7 feet high, and has a +piscina in the south wall. + + + + +AUCHTERARDER CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +This old church is situated a little to the north of the town, and is +surrounded by an old churchyard. It is densely ivy clad and generally + +[Illustration: FIG. 1441.--Auchterarder Church. Plan.] + +concealed by vegetation, and thoroughly neglected. The church (Fig. +1441) measures about 81 feet long by about 24 feet 6 inches wide +externally. There is almost no architectural feature now + +[Illustration: FIG. 1442. + +Auchterarder Church. + +Piscina.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1443.--Auchterarder Church. View from South-West.] + +visible except a piscina (Fig. 1442) in the usual place in the south +wall near the east end, which part of the building is walled off as a +tomb house. The piscina is triangular headed, somewhat like the one in +the choir of Paisley Abbey. It is only visible through a chink in the +door of the tomb. There has been some kind of projection in the south +wall near the centre, but owing to vegetation and rubbish (Fig. 1443) it +cannot be properly examined, nor for the same reason can anything be +made out regarding any openings in the south wall. Both of the side +walls are considerably ruined. There is a slightly projecting splayed +base at the east wall, with the usual set-off just below the gable. + +The edifice was dedicated to St. Mechessock, and in 1198 the church of +Auchterarder was given by Gilbert, third Earl of Strathearn, to the +Abbey of Inchaffray, but the existing ruin belongs to a much later age. + +A well at a short distance south from the church still bears “St. +M‘Kessog’s” name, and on his day (10th March) the principal fair of the +town is held.[198] The church was served by a parochial curate appointed +by the Abbot of Inchaffray. + + + + +CAMBUSMICHAEL CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +Finely situated on one of the most beautiful reaches of the Tay, a +little below the Linn of Camsie and opposite the village of Stanley, +this ruined church, with its churchyard, occupies the end of a plateau +which slopes suddenly down to the river on the north side, and to a deep + +[Illustration: FIG. 1444.--Cambusmichael Church. Plan.] + +ravine on the east; so that, like most churches bearing the name of St. +Michael, it stands on a height. The building, as will be seen from the +Plan (Fig. 1444) and the view (Fig. 1445), is still in a fair state of +preservation, although it is quite evident, on the spot, that the trees +which crowd the inside (but which are not shown on the sketch) will soon +work the destruction of the walls. One great trunk has half obtruded +itself into the heart of the wall at the doorway, and has so burst the +wall that the doorway and the whole of the south-west corner will +probably soon come to the ground. Another tree has toppled over the +upper stone of the belfry, which lies not yet broken to pieces. + +The church is finely built, and is well worth some little attention. It +is of small dimensions, measuring on the outside 50 feet 5 inches by + +[Illustration: FIG. 1445.--Cambusmichael Church.] + +20 feet 6 inches, and on the inside 43 feet 10 inches by 15 feet. The +doorway, which is in the usual place on the south side near the west +end, is round-arched with a wide splay, and is built with large stones. +There + +[Illustration: FIG. 1446.--Cambusmichael Church. Centre Window.] + +were probably three windows, all on the south side. One adjoining the +doorway is lost where the wall is ruined, and another at the east end +has only the sill remaining. The centre window (Fig. 1446) is complete; +it is 5 inches wide with a slight chamfer on the edge, and with the +opening on the inside splayed out to 3 feet 5 inches wide. An ambry +occupies the usual position in the north wall. Both of the end walls +have a set-off at the level of the eaves, as shown by Fig. 1445. The +projecting eaves course and this set-off coincide, and their splays are +very simply worked out (see Fig. 1446). The belfry on the west gable is +a pre-Reformation example of a type which became very common in +Presbyterian times. Below the belfry there is a small splayed slit with +a segmental arched lintel. The east gable is terminated with a cross +with a massive gableted base. + + + + +COUPAR ABBEY, PERTHSHIRE.[199] + + +Of this once great abbey almost nothing remains. The present parish +church stands partly on the site of the monastic church, and the +conventual buildings, with the cloister garth, occupied the ground which +now forms the churchyard, at the south corner of which is the gateway +with the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1447.--Coupar Abbey. + +Gateway.] + +angle buttress shown in Fig. 1447. This small fragment is the only piece +of building, properly so called, which exists. It comprises a plain +opening 6 feet wide by about 7 feet high, leading through a wall about 9 +feet thick, and at the corner it is flanked by a massive angle buttress. +The ruin rises to a height of about 25 to 30 feet, and stands about 70 +yards south from the church. + +The churchyard extends for a distance of about 400 feet from east to +west, by about 280 feet from north to south, and these dimensions in all +probability give an idea of the extent of ground formerly occupied by +the monastery, and which is believed to have been the site of a Roman +camp. + +The monastery was founded by Malcolm IV. in 1164, and was the sixth in +the order of construction of the thirteen Cistercian Abbeys in Scotland. +William the Lion granted a site for the abbey of about 50 acres of +land, and also gifted it with the King’s Chase and a portion of waste +land. In 1233 the church was dedicated, under the invocation of the +Blessed Virgin, during the time of Alexander, the eighth abbot. King +Alexander II. was a generous benefactor to the abbey, and amongst the +nobles the Hays of Errol and the Earls of Athole were conspicuous in +their gifts, the latter presenting, amongst other things, timber for the +construction of the buildings. At the Reformation the value of the +estates of the abbey are estimated by Dr. Rogers “as equal to at least +£8000 of present money.” + +The buildings, it is believed, were destroyed by the excited multitude +who wrecked the religious houses at Perth and neighbourhood in 1559, and +a portion of the buildings seems to have been occupied as a residence by +Leonard Leslie, the first lay commendator, who died in 1605. In 1606 +James VI., desirous to “suppress and extinguish the memorie of the +abbacie,” converted the lands and baronies into a temporal lordship in +favour of James Elphinstone, second son of the first Lord Balmerino, +with the title of Baron Coupar. This lord appears to have made the abbey +his residence, as in 1645 it was assailed by 200 soldiers belonging to +the army of Montrose, in revenge for the support given to the +Covenanters by Elphinstone. Probably this was the finishing blow given +to the buildings, as in 1682 the place is described as “nothing but +rubbish.” + +In the Rental Book, from 1480 and onwards, there are several notices of +the Porters, who, from their office, assumed that name as their family +designation, the office having become hereditary. When the last of them +demitted office it is stated in a charter that they had been hereditary +porters from time immemorial, and in the Chamberlain’s Accounts Robert +Porter received a commuted allowance, consequent on the secularisation +of the abbey. + +At the west end of the present church there are the remains of some of +the main piers of the nave. As shown by Fig. 1448 these indicate work of +the first pointed period, probably of the thirteenth century. + +A broken slab, measuring about 3 feet 3 inches high by 3 feet in breadth +(Fig. 1449), is lying in the churchyard. In the Rental Book it is +referred to as being built into the wall of the church which preceded +the present one (erected about thirty years ago), and as bearing “the +effigies of a priest,” with the inscription on the margin--_Monachus de +Cupro qui obiit anno dni. Millesimo quadringentesimo quqgesio_.[200] +From the present state of the fragment it is evident that little respect +is paid in Coupar to the remains of the ancient abbey. + +The two sculptured slabs (Figs. 1450 and 1451) which are at present +lying in a tool-house in all likelihood adorned the base of a mural +tomb. They are evidently works of the end of the fourteenth century or +of the fifteenth century. They are supposed to be remains of a monument +to the Hays of Errol. Fig. 1451 appears to represent a pair who have +been guilty, and are suffering under the prospect of finding themselves +in the hands of the headsman. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1448.--Coupar Abbey. + +Main Piers of Nave.] + +On a house opposite the abbey occur the royal arms, shown by Fig. 1452, +and throughout the village there are numerous carved and moulded stones +to be seen, showing that the whole place has been built out of the ruins +of the monastery. + +In the Chamberlain’s Accounts for 1563 he describes the chapel “as being +so completely wrecked, that with a view to preserve the timber, he had +built up both doors; also the undermost door of the steeple. In the +cloister he had collected the slates which had been removed from the +roof. He had also repaired the broken windows, providing them with iron +framework. The abbot’s apartments he had partially + +[Illustration: FIG. 1449.--Coupar Abbey. + +Broken Slab.] + +restored, and with proper fastenings made secure the granaries and +store-houses. From having, in August 1562, accommodated the royal stud +(during a passing visit of Queen Mary), the stables of the monastery are +in the Account styled the ‘quenes stables.’”[201] + +We have already referred to the Earls of Errol as benefactors to the +abbey, and amongst the Errol Papers[202] there occurs a “Copy of the +Tabill Quhilk ves at Cowper of all the Erles of Erroll quhilk ver Buryd +in the Abbey Kirk thair,” from which it appears that sixteen Earls were +buried in the monastery. Of these we suppose no memorial now remains; +but we may take this opportunity of introducing a sketch (Fig. 1453) of +a recumbent figure, now built into the churchyard wall of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1450.--Coupar Abbey. Sculptured Slab.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1451.--Coupar Abbey. Sculptured Slab.] + +Errol (Carse of Gowrie), which, from the following inscription, probably +represents the eighth Earl referred to in the above “tabill”--“Item +penultimo die mensis Ianuarij, Anno Domini M.D.LX(X)III. obijt bone +memorie Georgius comes De Errol. apud Pertham et sepultus est Errolie.” + +There are few notices of the buildings of the abbey. A plan of it was +made about 1820 by William Mitchell, a mason, who corresponded with + +[Illustration: FIG. 1452.--Coupar Abbey. + +Royal Arms.] + +General Hutton regarding it; but they evidently could not come to terms, +and it is not in his collection in the Advocates’ Library. Mitchell +calls it “a true and just plan of the outlines of that pile of +building.” + +Dr. Marshall, in his _Historic Scenes in Forfarshire_, p. 144, had this +plan before him when he wrote, and he characterises it as being +unreliable. After a good deal of correspondence we obtained a sight of +it, and have no hesitation in saying that it is a pure work of +imagination, and is not a plan of the abbey at all; and, judging from +the correspondence with General Hutton, we suspect the author intended +to play a hoax on him, and yet was afraid to go the full length, and +this is probably the reason why the General never got the plan. + +In 1492 and following years there are references to Thomas Mowtray, +mason. He was sworn to be “leyl and trew,” during the term of his life, +to the abbot and chapter, and he is obliged to “wyrk leilly and +profitably the masonwerk of our forsaid abbay, and to be the master of +the werk, in al thingis that langis hys craft of masonry in our abbay or +in our qwarellis + +[Illustration: FIG. 1453.--Coupar Abbey. Recumbent Figure.] + +as it nedis.” He was to have 6 “markis” yearly with his meat and drink, +a house with 2½ acres of land; further, the Lord Abbot “promised to give +him yearly one of his old albs reaching to the ankles.” He was to +instruct the “prentys” in all “craft of masonry.”[203] + +In 1485 John, the mason, and his son are continued in the service of the +abbey. In 1468 Thomas Bel was hired “for the constant carpentry” of the +abbey; he had workmen under him and apprentices. There are also +agreements with smiths, as John Lutare, smith, who “was hired (in 1484) +for the common work of the monastery in the forge,” and next year David +Smyth is hired to succeed William Byning, who was formerly in the same +service. John Duncanson, tiler, in 1492, was to labour in his trade and +in every other work which he knew. Nine years earlier John Sclater was +hired as apprentice to work at his trade of tiler (_tegulator_). Patrick +Dog (in 1490) was the abbey sawyer, with three workmen under him, who +each day were to turn out “fourteen draughts for each saw.”[204] + + + + +DRON CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +A ruin situated on the braes of the Carse of Cowrie, in the parish of +Longforgan, about two miles distant from Fowlis Church. It is in a very +fragmentary condition (Fig. 1454), only the chancel arch remaining in +anything like a perfect state, together with the foundations of the side + +[Illustration: FIG. 1454.--Dron Church. View from South-West.] + +walls and part of the east wall. As shown in Fig. 1455, the chancel is +about 28 feet long by 19 feet wide inside. The width of the chancel arch +is about 11 feet, and from the ground to the top of the cap is about 7 +feet 2 inches. + +The jambs and arch mouldings (Fig. 1456) are of a simple character, and +they are separated by a moulded cap, shown in Fig. 1457. From the form +of the base of the jambs and the section of arch and jamb, it may be + +[Illustration: FIG. 1455.--Dron Church. Plan.] + +inferred that the building is not earlier than the end of the fifteenth +or beginning of the sixteenth century. + +It will be seen from the Plan that the base of the east wall of the nave + +[Illustration: FIG. 1456.--Dron Church. Jamb and Arch Mouldings.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1457.--Dron Church. + +Base and Cap Mouldings.] + +extends a considerable distance northwards from the arch, which is +suggestive of the idea that the church had a transept. + +There appears to have been at one time a churchyard beside the church, +which has now disappeared, having been absorbed into a neighbouring +farm. + +The Church of Dron belonged to the Abbey of Coupar, which was distant +about six miles, in a north-westerly direction. + + + + +ECCLESIAMAGIRDLE OR EXMAGIRDLE CHAPEL, PERTHSHIRE. + + +A small ruined chapel situated on the north side of the Ochil Hills, +about three miles south-west from the Bridge of Earn. It is surrounded +by an old burial-ground, and adjoins the picturesque seventeenth century +mansion of Glenearn. + +The building (Fig. 1458), which is roofless, is otherwise fairly entire, +but it is densely covered with ivy and its features are not easily seen. +It measures about 25 feet 7 inches long by about + +[Illustration: FIG. 1458.--Ecclesiamagirdle or Exmagirdle Chapel. Plan.] + +11 feet 5 inches wide inside the walls. The door in the south wall is +lintelled and has a splay all round. There is a round-headed window +(Fig. 1459) at the east end about 9 inches wide and about 2 feet high, +having a stepped sill on the inside. A lintelled window in the west +gable, now filled with a monument on the inside, measures about 29 +inches wide. Both of these windows are splayed on the outside. The end +window has been fitted with a smaller window at some later period. + +In the centre of the east wall there appears to have been a recess about +4 feet 2 inches wide, and, as far as can be seen, it does not show on +the outside. Its sill is about 4 feet up from the floor, and there has +evidently been some kind of fixture against the end wall here, probably +an + +[Illustration: FIG. 1459.--Ecclesiamagirdle or Exmagirdle Chapel. +Round-headed Window at East End.] + +altar. Adjoining this, on the north wall, is a small ambry, checked for +a door flush with the inside wall. + + + + +FORGANDENNY CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.[205] + + +The small fragment of ancient work left at Forgandenny, a few miles +south of Perth, along with the more important remains in the district, +point to the importance of Strathearn in early times. That this has been +originally a Norman church there can be no doubt, and it is suggestive +and interesting to find such work here and at Dunning, each about two +miles distant from Forteviot, the residence of the early Pictish kings. + +The building is still in use as the parish church, but has been greatly +altered at various times, and now it is only in some bits of detail that +its antiquity can be detected. It measures on the inside (Fig. 1460) 70 +feet 7 inches long by 21 feet 7 inches wide. + +The east wall is in the main of Norman masonry. It has a splayed base, +which returns at each corner, but is soon lost, as shown on Plan, by +the rapid rising of the ground towards the west. From the east end the +ground slopes downwards to a wooded dell which skirts the churchyard on +that side. + +Two widely splayed narrow windows are shown on the Plan in the east +wall, but only the built centre mullion or pier now exists. It is of +fine masonry, in four courses 2 feet 10 inches high, and is set at a +height to the sill of about 8 or 9 feet above the floor. These windows +have been built up, and all traces of them were lost till an examination +of the wall for the purpose of preparing this Plan revealed their +existence. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1460.--Forgandenny Church. Plan.] + +Two or three windows in the side walls, with double splays on the +exterior, probably belong to the fifteenth century. They are +square-headed, and have been greatly knocked about. In the north wall +there is a peculiar narrow door about 2 feet 3 inches wide, splayed on +the exterior and lintelled like the windows just mentioned. + +The doorway to the church, which is now built up, was in the south side +near the west end. It appears to have been of Norman work, and a small +piece of its enrichment still remains, consisting (Fig. 1461) of the +trigonal moulding with a double notch enrichment, frequently found in +the outer member of Norman arches. At some later time a porch has been +added, as shown on the Plan, when probably the Norman door was +dismembered, and the fragment now shown was built into the wall. +Sometime after the Reformation, a laird’s seat (belonging to the +Oliphants + +[Illustration: FIG. 1461.--Forgandenny Church. + +Enrichment of Norman Doorway.] + +of Condie) was projected into the church, as shown by dotted lines on +the Plan. It was on a high level, and the congregation gained access +under it. This seat was done away with by giving the Oliphants of Condie +the + +porch, which they converted into a burial vault, enlarging it at the +same time, and making their seat over it, with an opening into the +church. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1462.--Forgandenny Church. + +Font.] + +The Ruthven vault, situated further east, is probably a structure of the +sixteenth or seventeenth century. Some closed up windows have features +of that period. The seat belonging to Freeland House is situated over +it. + +The foundations of a building were recently discovered on the north side +of the church, exactly opposite this vault (as shown by dotted lines on +Plan), suggesting the idea that the simple Norman building had been +converted into a cross church. + +The bowl of the font (Fig. 1462) still remains. It is octagonal, but + +[Illustration: FIG. 1463.--Font at Muckersey.] + +not equal sided, and is somewhat broken. It measures 2 feet 1½ inches +over all by about 15 inches high. + +Fig. 1463 shows another font which exists at a chapel at Muckersey, a +few miles distant. It likewise is octagonal and not equal sided, and has +a coat of arms on one side, which we have not been able to identify. The +chapel at Muckersey is now used as a family vault, and has no other +ancient features. + + + + +INCHAFFRAY ABBEY, PERTHSHIRE. + + +The ruins of the Abbey of Inchaffray, the ancient Insula Missarum, stand +on a wooded mound not far from Madderty Station, about six miles east of +Crieff. + +The abbey was founded by Gilbert, Earl of Stratherne, who succeeded his +father, Earl Ferteth, in 1171, and died in 1223, and his first wife, +Matildis, the daughter of William de Aubegni. Their eldest son, +Gilchrist, was buried in 1198 at Inchaffray, which had been founded +before that date. In 1200, when the great charter of the abbey was +granted, the Earl and Countess endowed it with various churches, +including St. Mechesseok of Ochterardouer and St. Beanus of Kynkell +(illustrated in this volume). They declared their affection for +Inchaffray, affirming “so much do we love it that we have chosen a place +of sepulture in it for us and our successors, and have already buried +there our eldest born.” + +The abbey was dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin and St. John the +Evangelist, and was a house of the canons regular of the order of St. +Augustine. Although not reckoned as one of the great monasteries of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1464.--Inchaffray Abbey. Plan.] + +Scotland, it was “endowed with many privileges and immunities by David +and Alexander, Kings of Scotland,” but its principal benefactors were +the family of the Earls of Stratherne, Earl Robert, the son (1223 and +1231) of Gilbert being particularly liberal. + +Only one of the abbots, Abbot Maurice, has obtained any popular +recognition in history. He it was who blessed the Scottish army at +Bannockburn in 1314. Five years afterwards he was promoted to the See of +Dunblane, within which diocese Inchaffray is situated. + +The first head of the house was Malis, a religious hermit, in whose +piety and discretion Earl Gilbert and Matildis had full confidence. At +the Reformation Inchaffray suffered the usual fate. Alexander Gordon, +brother of George, fourth Earl of Huntly, was made commendator in 1553. +Five years later he was promoted to the See of Galloway, and shortly +afterwards he was accused, by the General Assembly, of neglecting his +duties, and in particular, that he had resigned Inchaffray in favour of +a young child, and set divers lands in feu in prejudice of the kirk. The +young child was James Drummond, son of David, Lord Drummond of +Innerpeffray, in whose favour the abbey was erected into a temporal +lordship. + +The ruins of the abbey are situated on ground which rises slightly above +the surface of the valley. This valley in ancient times was a great + +[Illustration: FIG. 1465.--Inchaffray Abbey. Exterior of North Gable.] + +marsh extending for many miles, and it was from this feature of its +situation that the abbey received the name by which it was very +generally known throughout the middle ages, of “Insula Missarum,” or +Isle of Masses. As early as the year 1218 the monks had reclaimed a +portion of this marsh, and they doubtless continued their labours; but +it was not till 1696 that an Act was obtained, under the authority of +Parliament, for dealing effectively with it.[206] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1466.--Inchaffray Abbey. + +Plan of Doorway.] + +The fields around the abbey are now all cultivated, and the ruins are +enclosed with stone dykes, as shown by double lines on the Plan (Fig. +1464); so that the few fragments which remain are now properly +protected. Within the dykes almost nothing is visible but a dense mass +of trees and brushwood, with mounds of ruins in the utmost confusion. A +gable at the north-west corner stands entire (Fig. 1465), with a +round-arched vault adjoining, about 21 feet long by 10 feet 6 inches +wide and 10 feet high. This is one of the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1467.--Inchaffray Abbey. Interior of North Gable.] + +cellars of the western range of buildings. The walls of this range are +fairly entire along their whole length for a height of 7 or 8 feet. The +south end wall is also standing for about the same height. The length of +this range from north to south is about 97 feet 7 inches. It is probable +that the adjoining cellar to the south is entire, but the place is so +covered with vegetation that little can be ascertained. The doorway +entering from the cloister to the north-west cellar is undoubtedly of an +early date. Not much of it remains, but enough to enable the Plan (Fig. +1466) to be made. The nook shaft, a fragment of the capital of which +exists, is not later than the beginning of the thirteenth century. + +The high gable adjoining (Fig. 1467) is certainly in part at least of a +later date; the upper part and the chimney, with its corbelled cope, +being of the sixteenth or seventeenth century. On the first floor there +has been a large fireplace, the flue of which is still partly visible +(see Fig. 1467). A part of the north wall of the cloister stands near +the gable. This was part of the south wall of the church (see Plan), and +the greater portion of the church would thus be situated outside the +present enclosing dyke on the north side. + +There are indications at the north-east corner of the surviving gable +(at A on Plan) of a wall having extended northwards, which was probably +the west wall of the church. At the junction of the south wall of the +church and the wall of the western range, and at the height of about 15 +feet above the ground, there still exists the corner corbel for +supporting the roof of the cloister walk. We can remember when there +were other corbels along the church wall also, but they have now +disappeared. The part of this wall now standing is in a very precarious +state. It evidently extended eastwards for about 120 feet, when it met a +cross wall, now represented by a mass of rough masonry about 7 or 8 feet +square (see Plan). This mass may represent one of the great piers of a +central tower. There are other pieces of masonry throughout the +enclosure with numerous trenches and mounds, but, owing to the rank +vegetation, it is impossible to make a more satisfactory Plan than the +one now given. If the place were cleared out and a judicious search +made, considerable remains would doubtless be found. + +The average length of the enclosure as it now stands is about 210 feet. + + + + +INNERPEFFRAY CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +The structure of this church is still entire, although the building is +now only used as a place of burial. It is situated on a high knoll +overlooking the river Earn, about four miles south-east from Crieff. +Near the church on the bank of the river stands the ruined Castle of +Innerpeffray, elsewhere described and illustrated.[207] Close to the +west end of the church is the Library of Innerpeffray (shown in Fig. +1469), founded by David, Lord Madderty, in 1691. It contains a fine +collection of early printed books, and is open to the public and is well +worth visiting. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1468.--Innerpeffray Church. Plan.] + +The church (Fig. 1468) is divided, by modern walls, into three parts. It +is a long narrow building, measuring, internally, about 76 feet in +length by about 21 feet 4 inches in width. There was a sacristy on the +north side near the east end, its width and position being indicated by +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1469.--Innerpeffray Church. View from South-West.] + +absence of the moulded wall-head plinth (Fig. 1469), which runs round +the whole side walls except at this part. The door between the church +and sacristy still remains, but is built up. On the sacristy side it has +a rough flat arch. To the east of this door there is, on the exterior, +a splayed aperture about 2 feet 9 inches wide (see Plan) by about 2 feet +high, and about the same height above the ground. There is no trace of +it inside, the walls being plastered. This may have been what is called +a squint, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1470.--Innerpeffray Church. Arch near West End.] + +being situated in the same relative position as those at Seton and other +churches. + +The Church of Innerpeffray is peculiar, from having what resembles a +chancel arch, situated at a distance of about 7 feet 6 inches from the +west end. This arch (Fig. 1470) is round and about 14 feet 2 inches +wide. It has a splayed squint about 2 feet wide on the south side, as +shown on the sketch. It is difficult to give a satisfactory explanation +of this arch, but it seems to have formed a vestibule in connection with +the stair leading to an apartment on the upper floor. The archway +appears to have been fitted with some kind of timber screen, which, if +it was a close one, would help to explain the object of the squint. + +There is a room on the first floor reached by the wheel stair in the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1471.--Innerpeffray Church. + +Lintel of Eastmost Window.] + +north-west angle. This room, as it now exists, is of later construction +than the church, and is not older than the seventeenth century. The +stair, however, is part of the original construction, and is believed to +have given access to a belfry on the west wall, as well as to the room +which doubtless existed from the first over the vestibule, and which +(see Fig. 1469) was provided with a fireplace and a window in the west +gable. + +The ceiling of the existing room (see Fig. 1470) cuts across the archway +in an awkward manner. Doubtless the original room was at a slightly +higher level, so as not to interfere with the arch. The ceiling and +floor of the room are in a very ruinous state, the greater part having +fallen. The ceiling is painted in bright colours. It has a figure of the +sun in the centre with rolling clouds around, and till lately there was +a complete figure of an angel on one side, of which only slight +indications now remain. On + +[Illustration: FIG. 1472. + +Innerpeffray Church. + +Jamb Moulding of South Door.] + +the south side the ceiling has entirely fallen, and with it the figure +of an angel corresponding to the one on the north side, and soon the +whole thing will come to the ground. + +The church, in its original state, had three doorways, one in the centre +of the west end and one in the south wall, the latter being secured (see +Plan) by a sliding bar. Both these doors have bead and hollow mouldings. +The third door was in the north wall and is now built up. There are six +windows in the south wall, the two westmost ones adjoining the great +arch being markedly narrower than the others, and having evidently some +connection with the west arch. These windows have all double splays on +the exterior, except the eastmost one (Fig. 1471), which has a large +quarter hollow moulding continued round the lintel, on which occurs a +shield with the Drummond arms. + +All the windows and doors have square lintels, with the mouldings or +splays of the jambs continued round the lintels. The mode of securing +the side door has already been referred to; all the windows are likewise +strongly secured with iron interlacing bars. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1473.--Innerpeffray Church. South Doorway.] + +Fig. 1472 shows the jamb moulding of the south doorway. Over this +doorway there is a small pointed opening (see Fig. 1469), probably +intended to throw light on the rood screen which stood near it, as is +evident from the corbels for carrying it, three of which still exist on +the south side (see Plan) and one on the opposite side, the others +having been removed to admit a monument. On the north side two of these +corbels are placed (Fig. 1473), one on each side of one of the windows, +which, as will be seen, has been converted into a doorway to give access +to the central burial vault. Alongside the south door there is the stoup +(see Figs. 1473 and 1474). It is of plain design, with a slightly +projecting bracket. The piscina or small recess at the east end is quite +plain, not even having a splay. + +A very interesting feature of this church is the altar, which is still +standing against the east wall (see Plan). It has been rough cast over, +so that it cannot be examined thoroughly. It is needless to say that few +ancient altars remain in Scotland, one of the best preserved ones being +at + +[Illustration: FIG. 1474. + +Innerpeffray Church. + +Stoup.] + +the Church of Stobhall, about twenty miles distant, a view of the +exterior of which church is subjoined (Fig. 1475).[208] Stobhall and +Innerpeffray churches were both built by the same family of the +Drummonds, who adhered to the ancient faith, and successfully defied the +power of the reformed Church to cast down their monuments of idolatry, +as altars and other appendages of the ancient Church were termed. + +The east gable at Innerpeffray is quite plain, with the exception of a +small niche, which probably held a figure. Besides the painted ceiling +already referred to, there are considerable traces of painting +throughout the interior, particularly on the east wall. Several +consecration crosses are also painted on various parts of the church. + +From what has been said, it will be seen that this is a church of very +considerable interest and some almost unique peculiarities, and it is +unfortunate that it should be divided up with unseemly walls, and that +no effort should be made to preserve the painted work, of which so +little remains in Scotland. Were it put in the same condition as the +Church of Stobhall and as well cared for, it would be a circumstance for +which all who are interested in Scottish church architecture would be +grateful. + +This church, which was a Collegiate one, was dedicated to the Blessed +Virgin, and was founded by Sir John Drummond, the first of Innerpeffray, +in 1508. In the account which follows (kindly supplied by Mrs. Birnie, +keeper of the Library) it appears that a church existed here in the +previous century, and indeed it is stated[209] that it is mentioned as +early as 1342. The existing building, however, was doubtless erected at +the period above mentioned. + +“In 1483 the Church of Innerpeffray must have been in existence, as the +patronage is then conveyed by the Mercers to Lord Oliphant. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1475.--Stobhall Church, from Courtyard.] + +“One reason for considering the foundation of considerable antiquity is +the fact that the market held on the day of dedication (Lady-day) was +one of the great marts and one of the great holidays of Strathearn. (The +market was removed to Crieff about eighty years ago.) Institutions so +popular as this are generally found to have their origin in a remote +antiquity.... Its proximity also to the meeting point of the four Roman +roads, from Ardoch and the south, from Comrie and Loch Earn on the west, +from the Sma’ Glen on the north, and from Perth on the east, made it a +suitable centre.... Convenience of access and the popularity of Lady +Fair appear to confirm the remote date of the church, &c. + +“John Freebairn, minister and preacher of the Gospel at Madderty +(1620-1657), who was connected with the Drummonds by marriage, in a +genealogical history of the House of Drummond, leaves on record the +following:--‘John, first Lord Drummond, having re-edified the Chapel of +Innerpeffray from the ground and erected it into a college for some few +prebendaries to pray for requiems for him and his house, ordained it to +be their burying-place for all time coming, and being near 80 years of +age he framed one of the most material and perfyte testaments that ever +I saw and syne closed his eyes and time togidder and was most honourably +interred at Innerpeffray, in the year 1519.’ + +“On 4th June 1507 the King confirmed in Mortmain the charter of John, +Lord Drummond, by which (for the souls of the King and Queen, for his +own soul and that of Elizabeth Lindesay, his wife, and the umquhile +Margaret Drummond, his daughter, &c.) he granted as a pure free almsgift +to four chaplains, to celebrate the divine offices for ever at the four +altars in the church, dedicated in honour of the Blessed Virgin, of +Innerpeffray, an annual income of forty marks from his lands of +Innerpeffray and Dunfallys, with houses, residences, and gardens to be +marked off and built for each, with the right to each of them of +obtaining necessary fuel in the Common Mure of Innerpeffray with four +sums for grasses and for one horse. In 1508 occurs the name of Walter +Drummond, the first Provost of Innerpeffray. Here was buried the second +Master of Drummond, who died before his grandfather, and left an infant +son, David, afterwards second Lord Drummond.... + +“The King, on 20th October 1581, confirmed the charter of William +Lindesay, provost or principal perpetual chaplain of the Church of the +Blessed Virgin Mary of Innerpeffray, in which with consent of Patrick, +Lord Drummond, patron of the said provostry, he demised to James +Drummond of Innerpeffray six acres of land, the Smithlands, &c. &c., +reserving to the said provost one chamber (camera) only when he should +stay there.[210]... Four roundles or towers stood one at each corner of +the churchyard, and tradition says that these formed the residences of +the four chaplains.” + + + + +KINFAUNS CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +This edifice is situated about four miles east from Perth, and continued +to be the parish church till about forty years ago, when it was +abandoned and allowed to fall into ruin. It is now roofless and the +walls are very much reduced, except the south aisle, which contained the +seats of the family of the Greys of Kinfauns and their burial-place. +When the church was dismantled a painting was found on the plaster +inside the west wall, but unfortunately no drawing was made of it, and +it has now entirely disappeared. + +The church (Fig. 1476) measures about 65 feet long by 18 feet 2 inches +wide within the walls, and is probably a structure of the fifteenth +century. It has been considerably altered during Presbyterian times, new +windows and doors having been broken through the walls. The south +doorway is original, and is round arched with a bead moulding towards +the outside, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1476.--Kinfauns Church. Plan.] + +and lintelled on the inside with a stone slab having a cross carved on +it, evidently a companion stone to the one shown in Fig. 1477. This +cross, which wants part of its length, measures 5 feet 11 inches long by +1 foot 7 inches in width at top, tapering to 1 foot 4 inches at lower +end by 10 inches thick. It is well wrought with sloping sides, having +the form of the cross completed, as seen by the rounded disc rising out +of the slope on each side. There was probably a south doorway opposite +the north doorway, adjoining the stoup shown in the south wall. The +eastmost window on the south side is also original; it is square +lintelled and has the usual wide splay all round. + +The most interesting feature in the church is the arched recess in the +north wall (see Fig. 1477), which was probably an Easter sepulchre. It +was only discovered after the church became a ruin, having previously +been covered over. It has thus been well preserved, except that the +projecting crockets along the top of the hood moulding, as well as most +of the hood itself, have been chipped away, so as to make an even +surface at the wall. It measures about 6 feet 6 inches long by 3 feet in +depth, and about 4 feet high. It has well wrought mouldings, which die +against + +[Illustration: FIG. 1477.--Kinfauns Church. Recess in North Wall.] + +a rounded jamb, supported on a short shaft having a very simple cap and +base. The floor of the recess was slightly raised above the floor of the +church. The details of the mouldings show that this is a late design, +probably sixteenth century. + +The “Gray Aisle” on the south side of the church is roofed with a late +example of groined vaulting (Fig. 1478), and it is curious to observe +how the tradition of this kind of work survived to a period when the +style of art practised throughout the country was of the kind +represented by the panels on the east and west walls. There are three +panels on these + +[Illustration: FIG. 1478.--Kinfauns Church. The “Grey Aisle,” looking +West.] + +walls. The central one on the west side (see Fig. 1478) contains the +Lindsay arms, as shown. On the east side there are two coats (Fig. 1479) +containing the Charteris arms. On one of the panels of that side is the +following inscription, which gives the name of the founder of the +aisle:-- + +[Illustration: FIG. 1479.--Kinfauns Church. Panels in East Side.[211]] + +“John Chartrvs and Jannat Chisolim In ovr tym buildit this,” and on the +other is the inscription, “George Chartus sonn and har to the sad John +and deppartit. Bot suecs/nuvn” (without succession). The date over the +entrance door is 1598. + + + + +MEIGLE CHURCH FONT, PERTHSHIRE. + + +The old country town of Meigle is situated in the middle of Strathmore, +not far from Alyth Junction on the railway between Perth and Forfar. + +The church stood in the middle of the village, and was rebuilt about +the beginning of this century. When the old building was demolished, a +font was dug out of the rubbish and erected on a pedestal in the +minister’s garden. It remained there for a time, but when an Episcopal +chapel was built, the font was removed into it, and is now in use there. +It is one of the best specimens of an old font now remaining in +Scotland, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1480.--Meigle Church Font.] + +and it evidently belongs to a late period, probably sixteenth century. + +The font is octagonal and made of one stone. It is 2 feet 3 inches in +diameter, and the basin measures 1 foot 9 inches across. Each of the +sides of the octagon contains an arch with carved crockets, and the +angles are marked by small buttresses and pinnacles. The carved work has +been very spirited, but is now much damaged. In each arch is a +bas-relief containing emblems and scenes connected with the Passion. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1481.--Meigle Church Font.] + +Fig. 1480 shows three sides, which represent--(1) the Crucifixion, (2) +the seamless coat and the scourges and dice, (3) the Resurrection. Fig. +1481 shows--(4) the Cross and crown of thorns, (5) the pierced hands, +feet, and heart (showing the five wounds of the Passion), (6) the pillar +with the rope twisted round it, and the cock on the top. The seventh +side contains the ladder and the spear, reed, and sponge arranged +saltierwise, and the eighth the three nails and the hammer. + +These sculptures are all well preserved and well executed, but whether +of native workmanship or not it is impossible to say. + + + + +METHVEN COLLEGIATE CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.[212] + + +Of the Church of Methven, consecrated by Bishop David de Bernham of St. +Andrews on 25th August 1247, nothing now remains. + +The Collegiate Church or Provostry of Methven, as it is generally +called, was founded in 1433 by Walter Stewart, the aged Earl of Athole. +Before this time, King James i. had conferred the liferent of the +Earldom of Strathearn upon the Earl of Athole, so that he was the great +lord of the district, and was, besides, a son of Robert ii. Three years +after the founding of this church he suffered a terrible death, for his +supposed connivance in the assassination of James i. in Perth. + +What now remains of the church is the north transept, the north wall and +gable of which are shown in Fig. 1482. In the _Edinburgh Architectural +Association Sketch Book_[213] a plan of the church is given without any +information as to how it was ascertained. Assuming it to be correct, it +shows a cross church, having a chancel 40 feet long by 24 feet wide over +the walls, with north and south transepts, and a nave of the same width +as the chancel, extending for an indefinite length. The north transept +extended from the north wall of the church 22 feet, and has a width over +the walls of 21 feet, with walls 3 feet thick. The end window, which is +the principal feature of the structure, is 6 feet 3 inches wide in the +daylight; it has three lights, and the tracery, which is of a flowing +pattern, is placed, as usual at this period, in the centre of the +thickness of the wall. The mouldings of the jambs, which consist of a +double splay, are stopped at the springing of the arch by a continuous +impost moulding, and the arch mouldings are of a different section. On +the east side of the window there is a bracket with a canopy over for a +statue, possibly that of St. Marnoch, the patron saint of Methven. + +In a panel on the west side of the window there are traceable the lion +rampant of the royal arms, surmounted by a crown. + +The gabled crowsteps with which the gable is coped form one of the best +examples of that feature, which, however, is a rare one in the churches +of this period. The cross on the apex is modern. + +The collegiate church was in use as the parish church till 1783, and for +long after the Reformation the Presbyterian minister was called “Provest +of Methven, and Chaplin of Auldbar,” the Church of Auldbar having been +granted to Methven on its foundation in 1433. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1482.--Methven Collegiate Church. North Transept.] + + + + +MONCRIEFF CHAPEL, PERTHSHIRE. + + +A ruined chapel situated in the grounds adjoining the mansion house of +Moncrieff, about three miles south-east of Perth. It is closely hemmed +in with trees and is completely ivy clad, and measures in the inside +about 34 feet 6 inches long by 13 feet wide. The building (Fig. 1483) is +a pre-Reformation + +[Illustration: FIG. 1483.--Moncrieff Chapel. Plan.] + +church, but has evidently been used and altered in Presbyterian times, +and within the last few years it has been enlarged with an apse and +transepts, so as to form a burial-place. Most of the stones for this +purpose were taken from the ruins of the splendid old bridge which + +[Illustration: FIG. 1484.--Moncrieff Chapel. + +Stoup.] + +crossed the Earn about a mile distant at Bridge of Earn. + +There is a north aisle about 7 feet 8 inches wide by 7 feet 3 inches +long, which is entered by a round arch, and is lighted by a window 14 +inches wide, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1485.--Moncrieff Chapel. + +Apex Stone.] + +which has grooves for glass. The gable of this aisle has crowsteps. The +doorway is in the south wall, and adjoining it on the west is a stoup +(Fig. 1484) with a pointed arch cut out of a single stone, and in the +north wall there is the usual ambry. There are two windows in the south +wall and one in the west gable. This gable has the usual set-off at +about 5 feet above the ground, and at the ground level in this wall +there is a wide relieving arch, apparently intended to give scope for a +tree root. The skews of this gable are finely wrought, and the apex +stone, now lying inside (Fig. 1485), has the edge fillet continued as a +saltier on the face of the ridge roll. + +The belfry, entirely concealed by ivy, occupies an unusual position on +the east gable. All the openings are lintelled, and appear to have been +altered in Presbyterian times. + + + + +WAST-TOWN CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +A ruined structure situated in the centre of its churchyard, in the +decayed hamlet of Wast-Town, at a distance of about two miles northwards +from Errol Railway Station, and not far from the old Castle of Kinnaird. +The church (Fig. 1486) has consisted of a nave and chancel, the former +about 43 feet long by 15 feet 2 inches wide inside, having walls from 3 +to 4 feet thick. The chancel was apparently of the same width as the +nave, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1486.--Wast-Town Church. Plan.] + +but it has been entirely demolished, and the chancel arch has been built +up. This was doubtless done to make the church suitable as a preaching +station after the Reformation. There are a north and a south doorway, +the former square-headed with a splay, the latter (Fig. 1488) round +arched with a bead on edge all round. In the south side there are two +windows with square tops and a bead moulding, and one window in the +north side having a cusped and pointed top, as shown in Fig. 1487. This +window has a moulding on the outside consisting of a hollow, wrought on +a broad splay. All the windows are finished on the inside in a manner +similar to the one shown, the width of their daylight being about 13 +inches. There are three openings through the walls at the west end (see +Fig. 1486) about 7 inches square and about 4 feet above the ground, the +object of which is not very clear, and they are now considerably ruined. +Possibly they are putlog holes. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1487.--Wast-Town Church. Window in North Side.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1488.--Wast-Town Church. View from South-East.] + +The chancel arch, which is 9 feet 9 inches wide, is in two orders (Fig. +1489), each splayed on edge. The wall is 2 feet 4 inches thick, and the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1490.--Wast-Town Church. + +Belfry.] + +arch springs from wide spreading caps, which either rested on shafts, +now removed, or only on corbels. This cannot at present be determined, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1489. + +Wast-Town Church. + +Chancel Arch.] + +owing to the building up of the archway. The detail of this cap or +corbel is somewhat novel and peculiar in design. + +There is a plain belfry (Fig. 1490) on the west gable. + +The date of this church is probably in the sixteenth century. + + + + +MONUMENT IN RENFREW CHURCH. + + +This monument is placed in the modern parish church of Renfrew. It +consists of a recumbent effigy resting on a sculptured tomb, and +enclosed within an arched canopy. The inscription round the arch in +Gothic raised letters is as follows:--“Hic iacet Johēs Ros miles +quo(n)dam dominus de Hawkehede et Marioria uxor sua orate pro ipsis qui +obit.” + +Crawford mentions in his _History of Renfrewshire_, p. 66, that Sir +Josias (he means Sir John) Ross of Halkhead married “Marjory Mure, a +daughter of Caldwel,” and that their statues “as big as the life, with +their coats of arms over them,” are carved on the monument. The arms of +the lady are not there now. Crawford states that this was “the first of +the family who laid the foundation of that hereditary honour, which his +successors have ever since enjoyed, who, being a favourite of King James +IV., was by that prince created a baron of this realm, with the title of +Lord Ross of Hawkhead and Melvil, about the year 1492.”[214] It is to be +observed, however, that the arms on the tomb are simply those of Ross, +whereas the arms of Melville were quartered with those of Ross after the +marriage of Sir John Ross with the heiress of Melville in the time of +Robert II. + +The monument (Fig. 1491) has been partly restored, the shafts at the +sides with their bases and caps are modern, but they probably follow the +original design. The mouldings of the arch, which are thickly coated +with paint, appear to be original. The effigies, of which there are two, +husband and wife, with the table on which they rest, remain untouched. + +The tomb is 8 feet 6½ inches long by 2 feet 6 inches high, but the base +is probably buried beneath the floor. The front is richly sculptured in +a somewhat rude but vigorous manner, and is divided into eleven +compartments. Each of the end compartments contains an angel playing on +a musical instrument, namely, a violin and a viol. The other nine +compartments contain shields supported by angels, with the following +armorial bearings, as described by Mr. W. R. Macdonald:-- + + 1. A chevron chequé between three hunting horns, for Semple. + + 2. A pale, for Erskine. + + 3. A griffin segreant, for Lauder of Hatton. + + 4. Quarterly, 1st and 4th--A lion rampant within a double tressure + flory counterflory, for Scotland, as on No. 5; 2nd and 3rd--A fesse + chequé (with four rows of panes), for Stewart, as on No. 6. + + 5. A lion rampant within a double tressure flory counterflory, for + Scotland. + + 6. A fesse chequé (also with four rows of panes), for Stewart. + + 7. A bend, for----. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1491.--Monument of Sir John Ross and Spouse in +Renfrew Church.] + + + 8. A chevron chequé between three water budgets, for Ross of + Halket. + + 9. A chevron chequé between a hunting horn in dexter chief, a water + budget in sinister chief, and a demi hunting horn combined with a + demi water budget in base, being the shields 1 and 8 dimidiated, + but showing no dividing line. + +On the knight’s breast a chevron between three water budgets, for Ross +of Halket, as in No. 8. + +The Church of Renfrew was granted by David I. as a prebend of Glasgow, +and is believed to have stood on the present site. + +In 1557 mention is made of the chaplainry of St. Christopher in the Lord +Ross’s Aisle on the south side of the Church of Renfrew. The monument is +situated on the south side of the present church. The Chapel of St. +Christopher was probably connected with the ferry across the Clyde. + + + + +THE CHURCHES OF HOUSTON, ST. FILLAN’S, AND KILMALCOLM, RENFREWSHIRE. + + +These three churches lie to the north-west of Paisley, in a straight +line, about four miles apart. The Church of Houston is modern, and the +only thing belonging to the ancient church which formerly stood there is +shown in Fig. 1492, being the recumbent figures of one of the Houston +family and his wife. The monument which contained these statues is +entirely gone, and they now lie in a lighted closet, built for their +reception, beside the new church. The Houston arms are carved on the +knight’s armour (a fesse chequé between three martlets). The figures +probably date from the fifteenth century, and are believed to represent +Sir Patrick Houston of that Ilk, who died in 1450, and his wife, Agnes +Campbell, who died in 1456. Crawford states[215] that Sir Patrick, +departing this life 1450, was buried in the Chapel of Houston, where +there is a fair monument erected to the memory of him and his wife, with +this inscription:--“Hic jacet Patricius Houstoun, de Eodem, miles, qui +obiit anno MCCCCL; et D. Maria Colquhoun sponsa dicti Domini Johannis +quae obiit MCCCCLVI.” + +The parish of KILFILLAN or KILLALLAN was incorporated with Houston in +1760, and the church dedicated to St. Fillan has probably been in a +state of ruin since about that time. It stands in a beautiful hollow in +an elevated situation overlooking the valley of Strathgryfe, midway +between Houston and Kilmalcolm. The walls are fairly entire, but without +the gables, and are densely covered with ivy. The masonry shows that +they are of considerable age, if indeed they are not of the Norman +period. While this may be so, all the openings are of seventeenth +century work, and the doorway at the west end of the south wall is dated +1635. About that time the openings were probably changed into their +present forms, and the pre-Reformation character of the building was +altered to suit Presbyterian + +[Illustration: FIG. 1492.--Houston Church. Effigies of Sir Patrick +Houston and his Wife.] + +ideas. The old plan (Fig. 1493), however, resembles many of the ancient +churches in its long proportions, and in having the north and south +doors + +[Illustration: FIG. 1493.--St. Fillan’s Church, Killallan, Renfrewshire. +Plan.] + +opposite each other. Adjoining the church and churchyard there still +exists a quaint old Scottish mansion house of seventeenth century style, +which may probably have been the residence of the clergymen. + +KILMALCOLM.--The church here was dedicated to King Malcolm III., who +along with his wife, Queen Margaret, were commemorated as saints. A +fragment of the east wall of a pre-Reformation church remains, with +three plain lancet windows, which may possibly belong to the thirteenth +century. It forms a part of the parish church. The above three churches, +along with all the others in Strathgryfe (except Inchinnon), were +comprehended in the grant which Walter, the son of Alan, made to the +Abbey of Paisley in 1164. + + + + +PARISH CHURCH, SELKIRK. + + +Of the important churches which existed here in the twelfth century no +trace now remains. The parish church was in a state of ruin at the +beginning of the sixteenth century, when a new one was built, which in +turn followed its predecessors, and in the year 1747 another church was +erected, the ruins of which still exist. + +The following description of the church taken down in 1747 occurs in +_Our Journall into Scotland_, p. 15.[216] “They have a very pretty +church where the hammermen and other tradesmen have several seats +mounted above the rest, the gentlemen below the tradesmen in the ground +seats; the women sit in the high end of the church, with us the choir, +there is one neat vaulted porch in it, my Lord Bucplewgh’s (Buccleuch) +seat is the highest in the church, and he hath a proper (private) +passage into it in at the outside of the vaulted porch. On a corner of +the outside of the choir is fastened an iron chain with a thing they +call the Jogges,” &c. “The form of it is a cross house, the steeple +fair, handsomely tiled as the Royal Exchange at London, it having at +each corner four pyramidal turrets, they call them pricks; my Lord +Maxfield’s house at Langham being of the form of the steeple. The church +was tiled upon close joined boards and not lats” (laths). + +[Illustration: FIG. 1494.--Selkirk Parish Church. Slab in Wall of +Church.] + +The grave slab shown in Fig. 1494 is built into one of the walls of the +existing ruins. It is of red sandstone, and measures 6 feet 4 inches +high by 2 feet 5 inches wide. It is very much mutilated, and from its +exposed situation and the friableness of the stone, it is rapidly +decaying, and unless some proper means are taken to preserve it, will at +no distant date be obliterated. The figure represents that of a stout +yeoman with hands folded on the breast, having a belt round his waist. +On a shield at his feet is a bend, any other charges which may have been +on it being obliterated. The inscription in raised letters is more than +half gone, but from the first syllable of the place of Aikwood being +still legible, and in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1495.--Selkirk Parish Church. Stoup.] + +conjunction with the arms, it is supposed by Mr. T. Craig Brown[217] to +commemorate one of the Scots of Harden, who lived at Aikwood or Oakwood, +a tower still standing not far from Selkirk. The stone probably dates +from about the early part of the sixteenth century. + +The following figures represent three stoups in the possession of Mr. +Craig Brown, Selkirk. Fig. 1495 shows the five sides of one of these. On +one face is a lion rampant, and on the adjoining space to the right is a +human face, the mouth of which forms an opening for emptying the basin. +On the space to the left is carved the figure of a buck or hart. The +other two faces are broken. On one is the hind quarters of an ox having +a long tail and cloven feet, and on the other the forequarters and head +of a hare in full flight. + +The lion may be heraldic or it may have a symbolic meaning. The hart is +probably an allusion to the beginning of the xlii. psalm--“As the hart +panteth after the water brooks.” This verse is inscribed on a font of +the eleventh century, at Potterne, Wilts,[218] and the figure of a hart +is of frequent occurrence on Celtic and Norman work, where, as is now +generally + +[Illustration: FIG. 1496.--Selkirk Parish Church. Stoup.] + +believed, it has a symbolic meaning. The ox and hare, being also animals +referred to in Scripture, are probably to be considered in the same +category. This example is from Peebles, and was given to Mr. Brown by a +gentleman who believes it was found at some ruined building there. It +measures about 13 inches across on top by 9¾ inches high, and the bowl +is 4 inches deep. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1497.--Selkirk Parish Church. Stoup.] + +Fig. 1496 shows two views of a stoup, which is square, with the angles +cut off, converting it into an unequal-sided octagon. It is decorated in +a very curious manner with signs and letters of which we can give no +explanation. It was found built into an old house at Selkirk when it +was taken down many years ago. A mason took possession of it and used +it for a flower pot, and chiselled a hole in the bottom. The fragment +measures about 14⅝ by 16 inches. The basin is 11 inches over by 10 +inches deep. + +Both of these specimens are cut out of red sandstone. + +The third stoup (Fig. 1497) is cut out of hard blue whinstone, and has +an unfinished appearance. It is decorated with shields, some having an +incised cross, and with foliage of a Gothic character. The plan on the +under side is in the form of a Greek cross. It measures about 18 inches +in diameter by 10½ inches high, with a basin 11 inches wide by 9 inches +deep. + + + + +WIGTON CHURCH, WIGTONSHIRE.[219] + + +An ivy clad ruin standing in the old churchyard of Wigton. Only the east +end (Fig. 1498) with a considerable portion of the south wall and a +small portion of the north wall remain. The first measures 21 feet 2 +inches wide on the inside, and the south wall extends for a length of +about 55 feet. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1498.--Wigton Church. Plan.] + +Mr. Muir writes of this church as follows:[220]--“By the remains of a +string course and other bits of minor detail at the east end, it would +appear that the building has been originally of first pointed date, +though perhaps still earlier features were destroyed at the various +repairs which it underwent in modern times. One or two objects--The +stump of a cross, and a small baptismal font of tapering form” (which +seems to have now disappeared)--“were to all appearance Norman, and very +likely, therefore, the earlier portion of the primitive structure was of +twelfth century date.” The church was dedicated to St. Machutus, and +belonged to the Priory of Whithorn. + +A ruined building of late date, with walls about 7 feet high, projects +about 17 feet out from the south wall by about 23 feet in width outside +measure. + + + + +CHURCHES OF THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES. + + +The ecclesiastical architecture of the mediæval period terminated at the +introduction of the Reformation in 1560, but during the latter half of +the sixteenth and the greater part of the seventeenth century a number +of churches were erected which show some attempt to maintain or revive +the style of earlier times. This tendency was doubtless encouraged by +the strenuous effort which was made, under James I. and Charles I. and +II., to establish the Episcopal forms of Church government and service +in Scotland. These forms being contrary to the desire of the +Presbyterians, who comprised the great body of the people, gave rise to +two opposing parties. The party favourable to the Episcopal form of +religion supported the erection of churches and the maintenance of the +worship as nearly as possible after the old model, while the +Presbyterians and Puritans discouraged everything which savoured of the +ancient faith, whether in buildings or services. The result was that +during the century which followed the Reformation there were two styles +of ecclesiastical structures erected in the country, one style showing +some reverence for the house of God in its form and decoration, and in +the appropriateness of the divine service; while the other seemed to be +designed, both in its buildings and forms of worship, to be as far +removed as possible from any outward or visible sign of inward sweetness +or grace. + +It is proposed to conclude this work with some examples of the different +styles of churches erected during the above period. + +A number of specimens have already been given in a former work.[221] + +These churches were introduced into a work on the domestic architecture +of the country, in order to illustrate the influence of the domestic +style on the ecclesiastical architecture of this period. Many of these +edifices were, therefore, only partially illustrated, and it has been +thought desirable to treat some of them more fully in this book, so as +to complete the illustration and description of their architecture. + +The examples which are now given will amply illustrate the remaining +specimens which still survive of this somewhat heterogeneous epoch. + +Most of the churches of the seventeenth century are either very poor +imitations of Gothic work or tasteless examples of plain walls, while a +few contain the germs of what might have been wrought into a picturesque +style, founded on the domestic architecture of the period. Such, for +example, are the churches of Stirling (west end), Anstruther Easter, and +Pittenweem. + +Several of the monuments of the period are also given. + +The following examples are arranged in alphabetical order. + + + + +ABERDOUR, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +A village about eight miles west of Fraserburgh. In the _Book of Deer_ +it is written, “Columcille and Drostan son of Cosgrach his pupil came + +[Illustration: FIG. 1499.--Aberdour. Plan.] + +from I as God had shown to them unto Abbordo-boir and Bede the Pict was +mormaer of Buchan before them, and it was he that gave them that + +[Illustration: FIG. 1500.--Aberdour. View from South-West.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1501. + +Aberdour. + +Jamb of Arch to Aisle.] + +town in freedom for ever from Mormaer and tosech.” In these words a +scribe, writing in the eleventh or twelfth century, tells of the +planting of Christianity in the North about A.D. 580. It is probable +that the clerics tarried at Aberdour for a time, and founded a monastery +on the land which had been granted to them.[222] In later times the +parish church was dedicated to St. Drostan, and in 1178 and 1318 there +are notices of its erection into a prebend of St. Machar’s +Cathedral.[223] In 1557 there is a mandate + +[Illustration: FIG. 1502.--Aberdour. Tomb in North Wall.] + +by William, Bishop of Aberdeen, for the institution of Master Robert +Carnegy in the canonry and prebend of the Rectory of Aberdour. Again, in +1599, there is a seisin of Robert Ramsay in the kirk lands and glebe +with the vicar’s manse of Aberdour. The existing ruins (Fig. 1499) are +not earlier than the sixteenth century, and consist of a nave 70 feet +long by 21 feet 3 inches wide, and a south aisle 30 feet 4 inches long +by 17 feet 4 inches wide, all outside measure. The + +[Illustration: FIG. 1503.--Aberdour. + +Font.] + +walls (Fig. 1500) are still tolerably entire, but are fast crumbling +away. The west end of the nave has been partitioned off into two burial +vaults, as also is the aisle. The arch between the nave and aisle is +round, with an impost moulding (Fig. 1501) at the springing of the arch. +The arch and jambs are chamfered, the chamfer terminating on a splayed +base. In the north wall of the nave is the round arched mural tomb shown +in Fig. 1502. + +The font is still in existence. It is quite plain and octagonal, being 2 +feet in diameter by about 2 feet 2 inches high. After the abandonment of +the church the font appears to have been built into the wall, and to +have had a sundial carved on its lower end (Fig. 1503). + + + + +ANSTRUTHER, EASTER AND WESTER, FIFESHIRE. + + +These adjacent towns form one of the very interesting group of ancient +seaports and places of commerce on the northern shore of the Frith of +Forth. Anstruther is divided into two portions by the little river +Dreel, which formed the harbour of Anstruther Wester, while Easter +Anstruther extends in a wide crescent along the coast, and has a larger +harbour of its own. + +Anstruther Wester belonged to the Priory of Pittenweem, and the parish +church was dedicated to St. Nicolas. The town obtained a charter from +the monastery in 1549, and another in 1554.[224] The church is now +modernised, but the old tower (Fig. 1504) is a fair specimen of the +keep-like structures so often erected in connection with Scottish +churches in the sixteenth century. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1504.--Anstruther Wester.] + +Anstruther Easter was, before the Reformation, in the parish of +Kilrenny, and was disjoined from it by the General Assembly, with the +consent of the bailies and council of the town, in 1639. In 1640 +Anstruther Easter was erected into a separate parish, and the reason +assigned in the Act was “the Burgh being a part of the parish of +Kilrenny a mile distant of deep evil way in winter and rainy +times.”[225] + +A proposal to build a church at Anstruther Easter had thus been in +contemplation for some time, and in 1636 an agreement was come to +regarding it between Mr. Colin Adams, the first minister of the parish, +and the bailies and council. The new church was erected, and “ten years +later a steeple was added after a Dutch model.”[226] + +The arrangement of the Plan (Fig. 1505) and the design of the tower +seem, however, to contradict the latter statement. The debased but +picturesque architecture of the tower (Fig. 1506) so strongly resembles +the other Scottish church towers of the period as to render its origin +beyond dispute. It combines the ornamental treatment of the upper part +with the plain features of the lower portion, so usual in the castles of +the time; and the classic balustrade and the gabled termination of the +staircase recall similar domestic features of Scottish castellated +architecture very common in the seventeenth century, both in churches +and houses. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1505.--Anstruther Easter. Plan.] + +The church measures, externally, 92 feet in length by 41 feet in +breadth. The entrance doorway leads into a simple barrel-vaulted passage +9 feet wide. This originally opened directly into the body of the +church, having a staircase to the gallery on the south side and a small +room or vestry on the north side. The body of the church is of the usual +oblong form (Fig. 1507) and is lighted with windows, which, from their +mullions and round arches, retain a slightly ecclesiastical appearance. +This is chiefly striking in the large east window. There were originally +two doorways in the south wall, but one has been built up. + +Altogether, this church, the date of which is known, forms a complete +and characteristic example of the Scottish ecclesiastical architecture +of the earlier part of the seventeenth century.[227] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1506.--Anstruther Easter. West End and Tower.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1507.--Anstruther Easter. View from South-East.] + + + + +ST. MARY’S PARISH CHURCH, AUCHTERHOUSE, FORFARSHIRE. + + +[Illustration: FIG. 1508.--St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. + +Chancel Arch.] + +The village of Kirkton or Auchterhouse is situated about five miles +north of Dundee. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1509.--St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. + +Section of Chancel Arch Mouldings.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1511.--St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. + +Jamb of Doorway in Chancel.] + +The old church consists of a nave and chancel, with a square west tower. +The nave is about 56 feet long by 33 feet wide, and the chancel is about +27 feet long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. The date (1630) + +[Illustration: FIG. 1510.--St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. + +South Doorway in Chancel.] + +is carved on the east gable, but the building undoubtedly is, in part at +least, of older date. There are a great many stones, pieces of window +tracery, and other carved work lying about the churchyard, which show +that there was a former building, probably of fifteenth century work, +here, which was doubtless in part taken down and rebuilt in the +seventeenth century. The chancel arch (Fig. 1508) belongs to this +earlier church. It is 12 feet 3 inches wide and is acutely pointed; the +wall is about 3 feet 2 inches thick. The mouldings of the arch consist +of double hollows, as shown on section (Fig. 1509), with a cap moulding +of the form shown on the same figure. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1512.--St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. South Doorway.] + +The south doorway in the chancel (Fig. 1510) also belongs to the earlier +church. The moulded jambs (Fig. 1511) abut against a square lintel, +somewhat in the same manner as occurs in one of the windows in the tower +at South Queensferry. The jambs rise at the base from a splay sloping +inwards. The doorway to the nave (Fig. 1512) is more classic in design, +and is of the seventeenth century. No other features of the church, +except its sundials (see _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of +Scotland_, Vol. V.), call for special notice. + + + + +AYTOUN CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +The town of Aytoun (formerly written Eytun) stands on the river Eye, +about seven miles north from Berwick-on-Tweed, and half a mile from the +railway station. + +The old church is situated in an open burial-ground, in connection with +which a new church was erected some years ago. The old building appears, +from the remains of its ivy-covered walls, to have been of considerable +extent, but no details can now be made out. The only portion which +remains in a tolerable state of preservation appears to have formed a +south aisle or wing. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1513.--Aytoun Church.] + +There is a plain segmental headed doorway in the east side, and a large +circular headed window in the south end (Fig. 1513). The latter is +divided by two mullions into three lights, each finished at the top with +a round-arched head. The window has a transom in the centre. It is +evident from the nature of the design and the form of the mouldings that +the window is of late date, probably of the end of the sixteenth +century. + +Aytoun was granted by the Scottish Edgar to St. Cuthbert’s Monks, and +thus became the property of the Priory of Coldingham, and shared its +fate. + + + + +BALLINGRY CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. + + +The present church of Ballingry is a modern structure built in 1831. It +stands on the site of a pre-Reformation edifice, which has entirely +disappeared. The window shown in Fig. 1514 clearly belongs to the +seventeenth century, being part of a north aisle, which was evidently +built about that time. The window is the only feature of interest in +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1514.--Ballingry Church. Window in North Aisle.] + +building, and it is a good example of the Renaissance style, modified by +the grafting on to it of Gothic features. + + + + +BLAIR CHURCH,[228] BLAIR-ATHOLL, PERTHSHIRE. + + +The walls of this old church (Fig. 1515) still stand within the grounds +of Blair Castle, the seat of the Duke of Atholl, and about five minutes’ +walk from the Castle. The building is roofless and the walls are almost +complete, but they have been much slapped and altered to make the place +suitable for Presbyterian worship. + +The masonry is rubble work, built with stones gathered off the hills. +The doors and windows have hewn jambs and lintels of freestone, all +square-headed and splayed. A gravestone, dated 1579, has been built in +the inside of the north wall. The chief interest of the ruin arises from +its containing the vault in which Claverhouse is buried. A tablet on the +inner face of the south wall of the church, west of the aisle which +contains the vault, bears the following inscription:-- + +[Illustration: FIG. 1515.--Blair Church. Plan.] + + Within this vault beneath + Are interred the remains of + JOHN GRAHAM OF CLAVERHOUSE + Viscount Dundee + Who fell at the Battle of Killiecrankie + 27 July 1689, aged 46 + This memorial is placed here by + John, 7th Duke of Atholl, K.T. + 1889 + + + + +ST. BRANDAN’S, BOYNDIE, BANFFSHIRE. + + +The ruined Church of Boyndie or Inverboyndie stands on a slight +elevation near the mouth of the small river of the same name, about two +miles west from the town of Banff. The parish was formerly conjoined +with Banff till 1634, when it was erected into a separate parish. The +church is of ancient foundation, and was granted in 1211-14, along with +that of Banff, to the monks of Arbroath. + +The old church stands in the churchyard, which is still used. It was +abandoned in 1773, when a new church was built. Since that time it has +fallen into complete decay, so much so that the plan cannot now be +properly distinguished. The only portions still preserved in tolerable +condition are the west wall and belfry (Fig. 1516). These do not appear +to be of great age. The wall contains the entrance doorway of the +church. It has a round arch and jambs with a small splay, such as was +common in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The top of the gable +has a small belfry, which has latterly occupied the position of a former +one, which was much larger. The older belfry must have been of +considerable size, as is apparent from the large corbels which carried +it, and which project boldly from both sides of the wall. These were +arranged so as to carry an octagonal erection, which must have had a +very picturesque effect. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1516.--St. Brandan’s, Boyndie.] + +They are evidently copied from the domestic architecture of the period. +This structure seems to belong to the seventeenth century. + + + + +ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH, CUPAR, FIFESHIRE. + + +The old Church of Cupar having become decayed, the Prior of St. Andrews, +in 1415, erected a new church on a new site in the town. But in 1785 +this church was also found to be in a decayed condition, and was rebuilt +on the same site as that of the fifteenth century. Part of the old +structure at the north-west angle was, however, not destroyed, and still +survives. This portion (Fig. 1517) comprises three arches of the main or +central nave and the tower at the north-west angle. The latter (Fig. +1518) is quadrilateral, and its north and west walls are raised upon the +outer walls of the church at the north-west angle, portions of which +walls still exist, together with the jamb of a large west window. The +tower is unrelieved by buttresses. On the east and south the walls are +carried on arches, the lower story being thus included in the interior +of the church. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1517.--St. Michael’s Church, Cupar.] + +The pier at the south-east angle which supports these arches is +hexagonal in form, while the remaining piers of the church are round. +The caps and bases are of the usual late form. The tower is oblong in +plan, being 22 feet from east to west, and 18 feet from north to south. +This inequality produces a peculiar effect in the broached spire which +surmounts it, and which was erected in 1620 by the Rev. William Scott, +the minister of the parish, at his own expense. The balustrade forming +the parapet and the other features of the spire are quite in the +character of the Scottish seventeenth century steeples, common in +Fifeshire, such as those at Anstruther and Pittenweem. + +The tower itself is plain with simple pointed lights, those of the upper +story being double, so as to be suitable for the belfry. In the west +wall there occurs a small window with peculiarly shaped head, and below +it the string course is studded with square shaped flowers. + +In the present church is preserved a good recumbent effigy (Fig. 1519) +of one of the Fernies of Fernie, but it is without date. The arms over + +[Illustration: FIG. 1518.--St. Michael’s Church, Cupar. Tower.] + +the monument--a fesse between 3 lions’ heads erased--are those of Fernie +of that Ilk. Several members of this family were Constables of Cupar in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1519.--St. Michael’s Church, Cupar. Monument of one +of the Fernies of Fernie.] + +ancient times. The lands of Fernie lie a few miles to the west of the +town. + + + + +ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH, DALGETY, FIFESHIRE. + + +A remarkable structure, which stands near the Forth at the head of a +small bay about two miles south-west from Aberdour, the road to it +passing through the beautiful grounds of St. Colm House. + +The old church (Fig. 1520) forms the eastern part of the structure, +while to the west has been erected a two-story building, containing on +the ground floor a burial vault, and on the upper floor a “laird’s loft” +or room for the Lord of the Manor, from which access was obtained to a +gallery in the church. + +The ancient church was dedicated to St. Bridget in 1244. It retains a +simple pointed doorway at the south-west angle, a number of altered and +square-headed windows in the south wall, and a piscina at the east end +of the same wall, but there are scarcely any of the old details +preserved to indicate the date of the building. It has evidently been +greatly altered, to make it suitable for Presbyterian worship after the +Reformation. There are two projecting buildings on the north side and +one on the south + +[Illustration: FIG. 1520.--St. Bridget’s Church, Dalgety. Plan of Ground +Floor.] + +side, all much ruined, but the mouldings of the jambs of the northern +projections at the openings into the church are preserved and indicate +Renaissance work. These outside structures were probably burial vaults. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1521.--St. Bridget’s Church, Dalgety. View from +South-West.] + +The house at the west end is undoubtedly post-Reformation. In the vault +is buried the celebrated Chancellor Seaton, and the building, to judge + +[Illustration: FIG. 1522.--St. Bridget’s Church, Dalgety. + +Plan of First Floor.] + +from its style (Fig. 1521), was probably erected by him about the +beginning of the seventeenth century. The upper floor is reached by a +projecting octagonal stair turret on the north side. The interior of the +walls of the principal room on the first floor (Fig. 1522) is built with +ashlar work, and the walls are divided into moulded panels in stone work +and a stone cornice runs round the room. + +A wide aperture in the east wall of the room opens into the church at a +high level, and no doubt gave access to a gallery at the west end. The +belfry is placed on the west gable of this room and still contains a +small bell, the chain for ringing which has cut a deep groove in the +wall outside. The small room at the south-west angle contains a +fireplace. There has been another gallery at the east end of the church. +The outside staircase for access to it still remains. A good monumental +slab is built into the north wall of the church, bearing date 1540. + + + + +ST. JOHN’S CHURCH, DALRY, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE.[229] + + +The village of Dalry or St. John’s Town stands on the east bank of the +Dee, in the northern or Glenkens district of Kirkcudbrightshire, and is +about ten miles north from Parton Railway Station. The old parish church +was removed in 1829-31, when a new church was erected on the old site. + +An old burial vault formerly attached to the church, and known as the +Kenmure burial aisle, has, however, been preserved, which (Fig. 1523), +with its crow-stepped gable and large antiquely grilled window and +panelled coat of arms, forms an interesting relic of the seventeenth +century. + +This adjunct to the old church formed a projection on its south side, +and measures internally 17 feet in length by 14 feet 2 inches in width +(Fig. 1524). The entrance from the church, which was about 7 feet wide, +was by a plain rubble archway, which is now built up. The doorway in the +west wall is square-lintelled, and 2 feet 8 inches wide. The window in +the south wall is also square-lintelled, and the iron grill appears to +have been built in along with the wall. The coat of arms in the panel +over the window is divided in pale, having the three boars’ heads of the +Gordons on the dexter side, and a lion rampant on the sinister side. +These, Mr. Galloway suggests, may be the arms of John Gordon of Kenmure, +who was Justiciar of the Stewartry in 1555, and died in 1604, and who +here combines the provincial with the family arms--the lion rampant +being the heraldic emblem of the province of Galloway. + +There is an ambry in the south-west angle 1 foot 7 inches wide by 1 foot +9 inches high, and 1 foot 3 inches deep. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1523.--St. John’s Church, Dalry. View from +South-West.] + +On the outside of the north-east angle there is an interesting relic of +the south wall of the old church, a portion of one rybat of a window +having been preserved. Three courses of freestone yet remain, having a +bold splay externally, a groove for glass, and a splayed ingoing. This +shows that the chancel of the old church must have extended some +distance to the eastward. + +Some of the dressed granite stones of the old church have been reused in +the modern building. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1524.--St. John’s Church, Dalry. Plan.] + + + + +DRAINIE CHURCH AND MICHAEL KIRK, MORAYSHIRE. + + +These two churches are examples of the revived Gothic architecture of +post-Reformation times. The parish of Drainie was formed by the union of +the two old parishes of Kineddar and Ogstown. They both lie on the +Morayshire coast, about five to six miles north of Elgin, and fully two +miles from Lossiemouth. The country is low lying, and used in former +times to be marshy. Kineddar was a seat of the Bishopric of Moray before +it was moved to Spynie, and ultimately to Elgin. There too stood a large +fortified castle (of the first period), consisting of a great wall of +enceinte surrounded by a deep ditch, but it has now been taken down, and +the plough passes over the site. This castle formed the residence of +some of the Bishops of Moray before Spynie Palace was erected. + +The Church of Drainie was built in 1666, and is a good example of the +period. It has evidently been designed to meet the requirements of the +Presbyterian service of the time (Fig. 1525). The pulpit would be in the +centre of the south wall, with a window placed on each side of it. +Beyond these, on either hand, are two doors, each admitting to a short +passage, which would give access to a central one. The main body of the +church is 62 feet in length by 24 feet in width, and in the centre of +the north side is a wing 24 feet by 18 feet. This wing or “aisle” is +spanned by a stone arch, which may have carried a gallery above, to +light which a small window is introduced in the north gable. The ground +floor of the north wing would be seated in the usual manner, and is +provided with an entrance door and two windows. Similar arrangements of +plan are common in the Scottish churches of post-Reformation times. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1525.--Drainie Church. Plan.] + +The windows and doors (Fig. 1526) have pointed arches, and the windows +are each divided by one mullion, which branches into two in the +arch-head. These door and window dressings are all chamfered on the +edges. The cornice is of classic form, and the gables are crow-stepped. +The west gable is finished on top with an ornamental belfry in the +Renaissance style of the period, in which some revival of Gothic +features was attempted. + + * * * * * + +MICHAEL KIRK.--About half a mile west from Drainie stood the ancient +church of Ogstown, the site of which is now occupied by the remarkable +specimen of revived Gothic shown in Fig. 1527. This edifice was erected +as a mausoleum for his family by Lodvic Gordon of Gordonston, an estate +in the vicinity. Mr. Gordon belonged to a branch of the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1526.--Drainie Church. View from South-West.] + +Sutherland family, the first baronet being Sir Robert Gordon, the author +of the _History of Sutherland_. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1527.--Michael Kirk. + +Ornaments in East Window.] + +The edifice (Fig. 1528) is 45 feet in length by 20 feet in width +externally. It has large pointed and traceried windows in the east and +west gables, and the south wall contains a central door and a two-light +window at each side of it. The openings are all pointed, and the windows +have a kind of tracery. The north wall has no openings, being apparently +designed to receive monuments, of which it already contains several. +This structure bears the date of 1703, and is a remarkable product of +that period. The forms of the tracery (Fig. 1530) indicate a very slight +acquaintance with Gothic, and the mouldings have all more of a + +[Illustration: FIG. 1528.--Michael Kirk. Plan.] + +classic than a Gothic character. The ornaments introduced in the +transoms are peculiar. Those in the east window consist of a series of +Cupids’ heads + +[Illustration: FIG. 1529.--Michael Kirk. + +Ornaments in West Window.] + +(Fig. 1527), while those of the west window show a variety of flower +patterns (Fig. 1529) carved with considerable spirit. The urns which act +as finials on the gables betray the Renaissance feeling of the period. +In the architrave-like moulding which surrounds the door and windows are +introduced a series of alternating stars and roses. + +It may be thought astonishing to find a revival of Gothic so prominent +in this northern region; but it must be borne in mind that the Episcopal +form of Church government encouraged by royalty in the seventeenth +century found considerable favour in this part of Scotland. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1530.--Michael Kirk. View from South-West.] + + + + +DURNESS CHURCH, SUTHERLANDSHIRE.[230] + + +It is interesting to find in the neighbourhood of Cape Wrath a specimen +of ecclesiastical architecture, even though of the seventeenth century. +The old parish church, which is now a ruin, occupies the site of a cell +of Dornoch monastery. It was built in 1619. The Plan (Fig. 1531) is +somewhat irregular, but not unlike, in general form, to many of the +churches of Scotland at the same period, having the pulpit placed in the +centre of the long side wall, and facing the wing. + +In a recess is the grave of Duncan MacMorroch, a relation of the chief +of the clan, believed to have been very serviceable in getting rid +quietly of + +[Illustration: FIG. 1531.--Durness Church. Plan.] + +troublesome hindrances. This gentleman was desirous to be buried in the +sacred edifice, but as some doubts existed as to his sanctity, it was +resolved + +[Illustration: FIG. 1532.--Durness Church. View from South-West.] + +not to admit his body quite into the church, so he was buried under the +wall. His tomb is dated 1619, and his epitaph hands down his name to +posterity in the following words:-- + + “Duncan MacMorroch here lies low + Was ill to his friend, waur to his foe + True to his master in weird and wo.” + +The adjoining gable has crowsteps and is topped with a belfry (Fig. +1532). The lintel of the doorway in the wing bears the letters and +figures 16 · HMK · A. In the gable of the wing there is a two-light +window with a pointed arch, a central mullion dividing into two small +arches at the head (the space between being left solid), and a transom. + +An old font lies in the main part of the church. + + + + +EAST CALDER CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +This edifice was the parish church of East Calder till 1750, when a new +church was erected at Kirknewton, and East Calder was united with that +parish. These two parishes lie about ten miles west from Edinburgh. + +The Church of East Calder was dedicated to St. Cuthbert. At the +accession of William the Lion the church was granted to the monks of +Kelso. This parish was formerly called Calder-Clere, to distinguish it +from + +[Illustration: FIG. 1533.--East Calder Church. Plan.] + +Mid-Calder, which lies about one mile west of it, on the opposite side +of the river Almond. The church, which is now a ruin, stands in its old +churchyard. It is a simple oblong (Fig. 1533), internally 56 feet in +length by 17 feet in width. The north wall has been removed, and the +interior divided into burial-places, separated by walls and railings. +The doorways and windows have been built up, and few of the wall +openings can now be seen. One window is still partly preserved in the +east end (Fig. 1534). It has evidently been divided into two lights by a +mullion, which is removed, and each light has had a round-arched head. +Another window in the south wall, near the east end, is of similar +form. The mullion and round heads of the opening have been preserved by +being built up. A doorway, also built up, adjoins the window in the +south wall on the west. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1534.--East Calder Church. View from South-East.] + +There may be other built up openings, but the wall is so thickly covered +with ivy that they cannot be identified. The belfry on the west gable is +plain, and evidently late in date. The few details which survive +indicate a post-Reformation style, probably of about 1600. + + + + +EASSIE AND NEVAY, FORFARSHIRE. + + +Two ruined parish churches, each in its churchyard, situated within two +miles of each other and about nine miles south-west of Forfar. They are +small buildings, measuring respectively 56 feet 6 inches by 15 feet 6 +inches, and 53 feet 6 inches by 18 feet 6 inches within the walls (Fig. +1535). Neither church has any openings in the north wall. At Eassie +(Fig. 1536) all the doors and windows are square-headed, and at Nevay +they are the same, except that the west doorway is round-headed, but not +arched, being cut out of one stone. At Eassie the westmost doorway on +the south side is of eighteenth century work, but the eastmost one is +original. An ivy-mantled belfry crowns the west end of each edifice. + +On the lintel of the south door at Nevay there is the date 1695, with +the initials D. N. between the first two and last two figures. These are + +[Illustration: FIG. 1535.--Eassie and Nevay Churches. Plans.] + +doubtless the initials of David of Nevay, whose father, a Senator of the +College of Justice, died shortly before this date. The church, however, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1536.--Eassie Church.] + +appears to be of earlier date, as a tombstone of 1597 is built into its +walls. + +These churches were in the diocese of St. Andrews, and in 1309 “Robert +I. gave the advocation and donation of the Kirk of Eassie to the Monks +of Newbottle.[231]” + +St. Neveth, martyr, to whom the church was dedicated, and from whom it +received its name, was a bishop “in the north,” who was slain by the +Saxons and the Picts, and Bishop Forbes[232] suggests that the martyr +was buried at Nevay. + +Eassie was dedicated to St. Brandon. + +At Eassie Church there is one of the finest of the Scottish sculptured +stones. + + + + +PULPIT FROM ST. CUTHBERT’S CHURCH, EDINBURGH. + + +The annexed sketch (Fig. 1537) shows the old pulpit of St. Cuthbert’s +Church as it stood in St. Cuthbert’s Poorhouse, Lothian Road, Edinburgh, +before that building was removed in 1868. It appears[233] that when St. +Cuthbert’s Church was demolished in 1773, the pulpit was transferred to +the Poorhouse. Its date can be pretty well ascertained. From a minute of +the kirk-session of 15th August 1651, we find that Cromwell’s soldiers +had so completely sacked the church that there was “nayther pulpit, +loft, nor seat left therein,” all doors and windows having been broken, +and the roof by cannon shot completely ruined. Steps were immediately +taken to repair the damage, and in April 1652 the church was reopened +for public worship. This pulpit was doubtless made between the above +dates, and its style is characteristic of the time. It is of oak, and +probably in the old church it stood on a loftier base than is shown in +the sketch. + + + + +FETTERESSO CHURCH, KINCARDINESHIRE. + + +The parish of Fetteresso included a considerable part of the town of +Stonehaven on the east coast of Kincardineshire. The old church, the +ruins of which stand in a large churchyard, is situated near the Carron +Water, about one mile and a half south-west from Stonehaven. The +structure probably occupies the site of a very ancient church, dedicated +to St. Cavan, which stood at the Hamlet of Fetteresso. It is beautifully +situated amongst fine old trees. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1537.--Pulpit from St. Cuthbert’s Church, +Edinburgh.] + +The existing edifice, which is roofless, appears, from the style of its +architecture, to be chiefly post-Reformation. The walls and gables are +well preserved and much covered with ivy. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1538.--Fetteresso Church. Plan.] + +The church (Fig. 1538) is, internally, 81 feet in length from east to +west by 17 feet 6 inches in width from north to south. It has a wing + +[Illustration: FIG. 1539.--Fetteresso Church. View from North-West.] + +thrown out to the north, which is about 17 feet square, and bears the +date of 1720. A small adjunct to the west of the wing carries the date +of 1857. The wall openings are almost entirely in the south wall, in +which there are three doorways and six windows. There is one window in +the east end and one pointed doorway in the north wall. The north wing +contains a north doorway and two windows in the east wall. This wing, +doubtless, contained a gallery. The openings in the south wall are all +built up, and the interior is converted into a private burial-ground. +The details have all the character of eighteenth century work. The +belfry (Fig. 1539) stands on the top of the west gable and still retains +its bell, which is used on the occasion of funerals. The church and its +surroundings are very picturesque. + + + + +FORDEL CHAPEL, FIFESHIRE. + + +This is a private chapel in the beautiful grounds of Fordel Castle,[234] +about two miles north from Inverkeithing. It bears the date of 1650, and +tradition has it that the works were interrupted by Cromwell’s soldiers. + +The edifice is now used as a mortuary chapel by the proprietors of +Fordel House. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1540.--Fordel Chapel. Plan.] + +The structure bears the mark of the period when it was erected in the +mixed style of its architecture, being partly an imitation of Gothic and +partly Renaissance. It measures (Fig. 1540) about 40 feet in length by +16 feet in width internally, and is a simple oblong in plan, with a +doorway in the centre of the south side. It is lighted (Fig. 1541) by +four symmetrically arranged windows in the south side, one in the centre +of the north side, and a large three-light window at each end. The +windows are divided by mullions, and have a species of tracery in the +round arch-heads. + +The west gable is crowned with a belfry having a small spire. The stone +cresting on the ridge has the small ornaments common at the period. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1541.--Fordel Chapel.] + +Over the doorway (Fig. 1542) are the quaintly carved arms of J. +Henderson and his wife, M. Monteath (the Hendersons being the ancient + +[Illustration: FIG. 1542.--Fordel Chapel. Arms over Doorway.] + +proprietors of the domain), with their initials and the date 1650. The +same initials are repeated on tablets both on the exterior and interior +of the chapel. + + + + +GARVALD CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +Situated about five miles south-east from Haddington, in the secluded +valley of the Papana Water, stands the rebuilt Church of Garvald. Only a +very few fragments remain (Fig. 1543) of the ornament of the ancient + +[Illustration: FIG. 1543.--Garvald Church. String Course.] + +Norman structure which formerly existed. These are built into the walls +of the church, which was restored and enlarged in 1829. + + + + +GAMRIE CHURCH, BANFFSHIRE. + + +This church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, has a splendid +situation, standing high above the cliffs overlooking the sea, and +having a small fishing village on the beach immediately below. The +building is now a ruin, only the walls remaining. It is a curious +looking structure and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1544.--Gamrie Church. Plan.] + +has been built at two periods. The east end is the earliest part. The +total length of the church internally (Fig. 1544) is about 94 feet 4 +inches by 15 feet 6 inches wide. The later part of the structure is +about 10 inches wider than the earlier, the walls being thinner. The +external dimensions are 96 feet long by 21 feet 8 inches wide. The +chancel or east end was probably heightened at the time when the west +end was built. The east gable has a sett-off at the level of what was +apparently the original height (Fig. 1545). There are two doors on the +south side, that in the chancel being lintelled and having a hole for a +sliding bar, while the other in the nave is round arched, as is also a +door in the opposite wall. These doors have all beaded mouldings. There +is only one window on the north side. On the south side the windows are +of various sizes, and are scattered about in an irregular way. Two of +them, which are placed high in the wall, are checked for outside +shutters; the others have all simple splays. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1545.--Gamrie Church. View from South-East.] + +There is a plain ambry in the east wall at a high level, and adjoining +it in the north wall there is a recess, probably a _credence_, as +suggested by the Rev. Dr. Pratt.[235] This part of the building is in a +neglected condition, being fitted up as a toolhouse for the +gravedigger’s implements. There is built into the interior of the east +gable a memorial tablet, with very quaintly carved letters and +mouldings, to the memory of Patricius Barclay dominus de Tolly, and his +wife, Joneta Ogilvy, who died in 1547.[236] There were other interesting +memorials connected with the church which are referred to by Dr. Pratt, +but of these only mutilated fragments remain. The indignant remonstrance +of the Rev. Dr. against the condition of the building, written thirty +years ago, backed up by a poem by Principal Geddes, has not availed to +secure any respect for the old walls. + +The Church of Gamrie is frequently referred to in the twelfth and +following centuries. It was granted by William the Lion to Arbroath +between 1189 and 1198,[237] and in 1513 Mr. Henry Preston was presented +to the Church of Gamrie by the Abbot of Arbroath. Probably the existing +walls were erected about the latter date, but the details indicate that +great alterations have been made on the building, which convert it into +a seventeenth century structure. + + + + +GLADSMUIR CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +A ruin near the village of Longniddry. + +The parish of Gladsmuir was formed out of several other parishes in +1695, at which time this church (Fig. 1546), now in ruins, was erected. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1546.--Gladsmuir Church.] + +It was an oblong structure, and measures about 71 feet long by 25 feet + +[Illustration: FIG. 1547. + +Gladsmuir Church. + +Sundial.] + +6 inches wide outside. There was, as frequently happens, an aisle on the +north side about 24 feet square, opening into the church by the wide and +lofty arch seen in the view. This arch, which is simply splayed on both +faces, has two of its voussoirs projected about 6 inches beyond the +others. These may have been rests for diagonal pieces to carry the +continuation of the roof at the arch. A sundial (Fig. 1547), bearing the +date 1700, stands in the usual place at the south-west corner. + +The district was formerly served by a chapel which stood a mile or so to +the south of Gladsmuir, of which all traces having been recently +removed, only its site can be pointed out. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1548.--The Tron Steeple, Glasgow.] + + + + +THE TRON STEEPLE, GLASGOW. + + +This tower, with its spire, stands in the Trongate, the most crowded +thoroughfare of the city of Glasgow, and, as will be seen (Fig. 1548), +it projects on to the street. It is believed that it is in contemplation +to remove it; and as the old college buildings were got rid of a few +years ago without much regret being expressed, the removal of a small +steeple like this will, doubtless, be regarded as a very simple matter. +Yet its destruction will deprive us of a very interesting example of a +genuine seventeenth century spire, of which few were erected or now +survive in Scotland. This steeple was erected in 1637. It has clearly +been built in imitation of that of the cathedral, having similar +features translated into the style of its time, and with rather a happy +effect. + +The steeple was attached to a church of older date, which was burned +down in 1793. This was the Collegiate Church of St. Thenaw, which was +erected in 1525, with the consent of the archbishop, Gavin Dunbar. + +From the proximity of the public weighing machine or Tron to the church, +it gradually came to be known as the Tron Church, and latterly the +instrument itself stood in the ground floor of the steeple, which was +then enclosed with solid walls. About forty years ago the Tron was +removed, and the ground floor of the building was opened up to form an +open passage along the street pavement. The wide arches on the street +floor are thus modern. + + + + +GRANDTULLY CHAPEL, PERTHSHIRE.[238] + + +This chapel stands a little to the east of Grandtully Castle at a place +called Pitcairn (anciently Petquharne), about three miles from +Aberfeldy. It is situated at a considerable height above the valley of +Strathtay, and commands an extensive view of mountain scenery. Any one +seeing the chapel for the first time, and unacquainted with its +existence, might easily mistake it for part of the adjoining farm +buildings, it is so plain and humble in appearance. Only the presence of +the churchyard surrounding it, and a very small cross on the east gable, +serve to call attention to the fact that it is a sacred edifice, which +on inspection is found to possess features of considerable interest. + +The building (Fig. 1549) may be said to be entire in walls and roof. It +measures on the outside about 79 feet long by about 23 feet 3 inches +wide, and is at present divided into two parts by a stone partition. + +There are two doors and several small windows on the south side. These +openings are all straight lintelled and quite unadorned. A door on the +north side is probably modern. There is a small locker, 14 or 15 inches +square, in the usual position in the north wall near the east end. This +ambry, which is about four feet from the floor, is of great interest, as +it is quite entire, having a wooden door and hinges, an almost unknown +condition in Scotland. There is another small recess about 17 inches +square and about 3 feet from the ground in the east wall. But the +principal feature of the chapel, and what renders it almost unique, is +the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1549.--Grandtully Chapel. Plan.] + +painted ceiling at the east end. This ceiling is constructed, as shown +on the sketch (Fig. 1550), at the west end of the eastern division. The +roof consists of rafters and ties, on which, at the east end, boards are +fixed so as to present a circular form, in the same way as in several of +the other painted ceilings of Scottish castles and mansions, such as +Pinkie, Culross, and Earl’s Hall. It is not known whether this painted +roof extended the whole length of the chapel or was confined, as it now +is, to the east end. The painting presents four rows of circular discs, +each containing six circles, which are variously ornamented. Four of +them are occupied with the four Evangelists, and others with coats of +arms, including the royal arms--1st and 4th, Scotland; 2nd, England; +3rd, Ireland, with an inner-escutcheon. The arms of England and Scotland +also occur on separate shields, as well as those of the Earls of Athole +and of the Laird of Grandtully and his wife, Dame Agnes Moncrieff. The +paintings were rather exposed for some years to damp, and in many places +the subjects and inscriptions, which are numerous, are considerably +effaced; but further decay is arrested by the roof having recently been +put in good order. Amongst the paintings there are complicated +monograms, and a large panel in the centre contains an elaborate +composition showing buildings with quaint figures. + +This chapel is first noticed in a “Notarial instrument, recording sasine +given by Alexander Steuart of Garntulye, from devotion and with the view +of promoting divine worship” of certain lands, “in terms of a charter to +be made, to Alexander Young, sub-prior of St. Andrews, as representing +the curate who is to officiate at the chapel built near the manor-place +of Petquharne, and to be consecrated to God, the Virgin Mary, St. Andrew +the Apostle, St. Adamnanus and St. Beanus. Dated 9th May 1533.” + +Following this, in the 3rd June of the same year, is the charter +referred to conveying the land and privileges to the church and to a +chaplain, “who was to be a suitable curate, personally residing and +celebrating divine worship and the sacraments irreproachably in the +Church of St. Mary of Grantulye.” The church was “to be held for prayers +to be made by the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1550.--Grandtully Chapel. Interior.] + +said chaplain for the universal church, the prosperity of King James V. +and his kingdom, the granter’s own soul, and the souls of certain of his +relatives,” &c. + +This gives us the period of the erection of the church, but the painting +is later, being shown by the style and by the arms to have been done by +Sir William Steuart about the year 1636. Sir William was an intimate +friend from childhood of King James VI., and was by him greatly beloved. +He married Agnes Moncrieff, daughter of Sir John of that Ilk, and, as +already mentioned, their arms are on the ceiling, and their initials are +also carved over a small window in the east gable. + + + + +GREENLAW CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +This church, with its venerable tower, overlooks, in a very prominent +manner, the small county town of Greenlaw. The present building occupies +the site of an early church, and probably dates from the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1551.--Greenlaw Church.] + +beginning of last century. It is a very simple structure, and harmonises +well with the ancient tower. The latter (Fig. 1551), which is a part of +an earlier church, is an interesting example of a Scottish church +tower. It is quite plain in its lower stages, and has a corbelled out +parapet at the top, which is reached by a stair in the projecting +turret, seen in the sketch. The tower is a place of considerable +strength, being vaulted on the ground floor, and is probably a building +of the fifteenth century. + +The manor of Greenlaw belonged to the Earls of Dunbar and Gospatrick, +and the third Earl granted the church, in 1159, to the Abbey of Kelso. +Greenlaw was one of the churches dedicated by Bishop David de Bernham. + + + + +INSCH CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +The town of Insch is a station on the Great North of Scotland Railway +between Aberdeen and Huntly. The old parish church, which is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1552.--Insch Church. Front and Side View of +Belfry.] + +abandoned, stands in the churchyard. The west wall, crowned with its +belfry, is almost all that now survives. The belfry (Fig. 1552) is +ornate, and is a good specimen of the Scottish Renaissance designs +erected in the beginning of the seventeenth century. It bears the date +of 1613, when it is believed the church was erected. On the south side +the tympanum carries a shield with the Leslie arms and the initials M. +I. L. + + + + +KEMBACK CHURCH, FIFESHIRE.[239] + + +Situated at the entrance to Duraden, near Dairsie Railway Station, are +the ivy-covered ruins of the sixteenth century church of Kemback, +surrounded with its ancient burial-ground. The building (Fig. 1553) + +[Illustration: FIG. 1553.--Kemback Church. Plan.] + +retains the Gothic feeling in the external splays on the square-headed +doors and windows, but the Renaissance influence is apparent in the east +window. Contrary to the usual practice, the door and windows are in the +north wall. + +About half a mile distant the site of an older church is pointed out, +but all that remains of it is the late headless effigy of a lady. + + + + +THE GLENCAIRN MONUMENT, KILMAURS, AYRSHIRE. + + +The Church of Kilmaurs, situated near the village of that name about two +and a half miles north-west from Kilmarnock, was formerly collegiate, +having a provost and six prebendaries. It has been rebuilt, and the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1554.--The Glencairn Monument, Kilmaurs.] + +burial aisle of the Earls of Glencairn, which no doubt was formerly +attached to it, now stands apart. The aisle was erected by the seventh +Earl in 1600, and contains the fine monument (Fig. 1554) of William, +ninth Earl, who was Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. He died in 1664, +and was buried in St. Giles’, Edinburgh. + +The monument is of a classic design, somewhat resembling some others in +the south of Scotland, such as that of the Kennedies at Ballantrae and +M‘Lellan at Kirkcudbright,[240] having shafts at each side, and an +entablature crowned with a panel containing the family arms. + +Within the frame formed by the pillars and entablature are half-length +figures of the Earl and his lady, with open books in front of them, and +a panel between which contained a long inscription, now illegible. A row +of small figures beneath doubtless represents the family of the +deceased. + + + + +KINNEIL CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. + + +The ruins of this old parish church are situated a few yards to the west +of the ancient mansion house of Kinneil, near Bo’ness. The church + +[Illustration: FIG. 1555.--Kinneil Church.] + +was abandoned about 1636, at which time a new one was built at Bo’ness, +about one mile distant. What remains of the old church is the west wall, +crowned with a double belfry (Fig. 1555), and the returns of the side +walls. The end wall measures 26 feet wide outside, and is 3 feet 9 +inches thick. The length of the church cannot now be traced, but there +are indications of buildings at a distance eastwards of about 64 +feet.[241] From indications on the north side of the church, there +appear to have been some attached buildings. The ruins are quite +overgrown with ivy, and nothing definite can be said further regarding +them. + + + + +ST. BEAN’S CHURCH, KINKELL, PERTHSHIRE. + + +Situated on the right bank of the Earn about two miles south from +Auchterarder, this church, which is a post-Reformation one, stands in +the centre of a small churchyard on a hillock overlooking the river, and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1556.--St. Bean’s Church, Kinkell.] + +is entire, but roofless (Fig. 1556). It is now divided by cross walls +into three burial-places. The building (Fig. 1557) measures about 65 +feet 2 inches in length by 23 feet wide externally. Like most of the +early Presbyterian churches it has a considerable resemblance, in plan, +to those of the Gothic period, being long and narrow, with a south door +near the west end, south windows, and an end window high up in each +gable. All the openings are lintelled and splayed. There was a belfry on +the west gable. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1557.--St. Bean’s Church, Kinkell. Plan.] + +The church was probably built about the end of the sixteenth century. It +was repaired about the year 1680 at the instigation of the Bishop and +Synod of Dunblane, and shortly afterwards the parish of Kinkell was +absorbed into that of Trinity Gask, when the building was allowed to +fall into ruin. + +The Church of Kinkell was dedicated to St. Bean, and was a cell of +Inchaffray. + + + + +MONUMENT IN KINNOULL CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. + + +The old church of Kinnoull stood on the east side of the Tay opposite +Perth. It may be said to have entirely disappeared with the exception of +an aisle which was attached to the church, and now contains a +seventeenth century monument to the Earl of Kinnoull (Fig. 1558). The +monument is of a pompous kind, and inspires none of those feelings of +reverence begotten by the monuments of the Middle Ages. It occupies the +full width and height of the aisle, and has a high dado richly +sculptured on the pedestals and sides with arms and insignia of power, +and contains an ornate central panel. From the dado there rise three +columns resting on pedestals. The columns themselves are twisted and +carved. The capitals, which are in imitation of Corinthian, are very +debased. The two end columns are backed by projecting pilasters at the +wall. Above the columns there runs a carved entablature with cornice, +supporting, by way of finish, a heraldic slab in the centre, with +various separate figures on each side of it. + +The principal feature of the monument, to which all the above are +accessories, is the life-sized statue of George, first Earl of Kinnoull +and Chancellor of Scotland. His history will be found in Crawford’s +_Lives of the Officers of State_. The monument was erected in 1635. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1558.--Monument in Kinnoull Church.] + + + + +KIRKOSWALD CHURCH, AYRSHIRE. + + +Kirkoswald is a village on the road between Girvan and Maybole in +Carrick, containing an old church and churchyard. The church (Fig. 1559) +is a simple oblong measuring about 93 feet 6 inches in length by 28 feet +4 inches in width over the walls. It seems originally to have consisted +of plain walls without buttresses, but within modern times the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1559.--Kirkoswald Church.] + +structure has been converted into a mausoleum by building up all the +windows, and by adding buttresses along the south side. The pointed +blank windows and the large pointed doorway in the south wall are also +modern additions. The modern applied buttress at the south-west angle is +now falling away. + +At first sight the building presents an ancient appearance, but closer +examination shows that it has been modernised beyond recognition. + + + + +LAUDER CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +The small town of Lauder stands in the wide and fertile vale of the +Leader Water, about six miles (over a high hill) from the nearest +railway station at Stow. The ancient parish church of Lauder was +bestowed, in the reign of David i., on Sir Hugh Morville, Constable of +Scotland. It was afterwards given by Devorgilla, wife of John Baliol, to +Dryburgh Abbey, to which it remained attached till the Reformation. It +appears that there were two chapels connected with the parish church in +different parts of the parish. + +The existing parish church (Fig. 1560) stands in the ancient churchyard. +It has apparently been entirely rebuilt in 1673, which date is carved on +the north gable. Chalmers, however, says that the ancient church was +relinquished in 1617, when a new church was erected. The present +structure, although very late, shows some reminiscences of Gothic forms, +both in its plan and elevations. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1560.--Lauder Church. Plan.] + +The plan is a Greek cross having four equal arms extending from a +central crossing. The latter is 14 feet square, and each arm is 28 feet +6 inches in length by 16 feet in width internally. The crossing is +surmounted by four pointed arches, which spring from a massive pier at +each angle, and carry the central tower. In the north-west and +south-east angles of the arms there are introduced two entrance lobbies, +giving access to the four arms and to staircases, leading to a gallery +in each arm. The space on the ground floor below the galleries is low, +and is lighted by two square windows in the end wall of each arm (Fig. +1561), with moulded jambs and lintel, while each upper floor or gallery +is lighted by means of a large pointed window in the gable, filled with +plain intersecting tracery, with mullions and transoms. + +The entrance doorways have round arches with hood moulding, and the side +windows of the staircases are pointed. The external angles of the +building and the outline of the windows are all finished with a broad +fillet, projected so as to receive rough casting. The skews of the +gables are plain and do not project, and the joints are horizontal. Each +skew has a large projecting stone at bottom. These appear to have +carried small pyramidal ornaments, two of which are still preserved. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1561.--Lauder Church. View from North-West.] + +The central tower is square till it reaches the ridge of the main roofs, +above which point it becomes octagonal, and is finished with a slated +roof. A small round-headed window of a late style is inserted in four +sides of the octagonal part or belfry. + +The staircase buildings in the two angles do not appear to be parts of +the original structure, or at least would seem to have been a good deal +altered. + +In the neighbourhood of Lauder is Thirlestane Castle,[242] the +residence of the Duke of Lauder, well known in connection with the +attempted introduction in the seventeenth century of Episcopacy into +Scotland. It seems not unlikely that the quasi-Gothic character of the +church may have been the result of his influence. + + + + +LESWALT CHURCH,[243] WIGTONSHIRE. + + +A ruined church, the predecessor of the present one, which was built +early in this century. It stands about four miles west from Stranraer. +All the dressed stones of the wall openings have been taken out, so that +nothing remains to tell the date of the structure. In the seventeenth +century a wing (Fig. 1562) has been erected against the north wall, +which probably contained a gallery above and a burial-place below, as +was frequently the case in similar erections about that time. The wall +between the wing and the church is still standing several feet high. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1562.--Leswalt Church.] + +The wing has been entered by a plain flat lintelled door in the north +wall (Fig. 1563), over which is a window divided into four compartments +by a moulded mullion and transom. This window would light the private +room or gallery on the upper floor. A panel (Fig. 1564) below the window +shows that the place was used as a burial vault, as it contains an +inscription and two coats of arms. The inscription states that it is in +memory of Patritus Agnew of Lochnaw, Earl of Wigton, and Margaret +Kennedy, his spouse; A.D. 1644. The arms on the shields beneath are +those of Agnew and Kennedy. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1563.--Leswalt Church. North Gallery.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1564.--Leswalt Church. + +Panel over Door.] + +After the new church was erected the old one was used as the parish +school, which accounts for a fireplace still visible in the east wall of +the church. + +Fig. 1565 shows its present ruined condition. + +Before the Reformation the Church of Leswalt belonged to the Monks of +Tungland, and in Episcopal times to the Bishop of Galloway. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1565.--Leswalt Church.] + + + + +ST. COLM’S CHURCH, LONMAY, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +Only the merest fragment of this church now remains. Its dimensions can +be determined as having been 62 feet in length by 15 feet 3 inches wide +inside. Part of the west gable survives for a height of about 10 or 12 +feet, with a small square-headed window. Nothing else is left but +grass-covered ruins and fallen pieces of masonry. + + + + +LOUDOUN CHURCH, GALSTON, AYRSHIRE.[244] + + +This was originally a structure of the first pointed period, but it is +now in a state of complete ruin, except the choir, which has been fitted +up in the seventeenth century as a burial vault. + +The west gable stands nearly entire, but the side walls are completely +demolished, except at the choir (Fig. 1566). The building is externally + +[Illustration: FIG. 1566.--Loudoun Church. Plan.] + +64 feet long by 27 feet wide. The choir is about 14 feet 9 inches long, +and is separated from the nave by a plain round arch 15 feet 6 inches +wide (Fig. 1567). In the east wall (Fig. 1568) there are two pointed +windows about 10 inches wide, with slight splays on the outside, and +widely splayed inside (Fig. 1569), where they are finished with round +arches. There are two set-offs on the east wall, and the same occur on +the west wall. The structure has been greatly modified in the +seventeenth century. The south doorway into the choir and the window, +with + +[Illustration: FIG. 1567.--Loudoun Church. + +Chancel Arch.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1568.--Loudoun Church. + +Elevation of East End.] + +panels and arms (Fig. 1570), are probably all insertions of that period, +as also is the vault seen in the drawings. The ground has accumulated + +[Illustration: FIG. 1569.--Loudoun Church. + +Section, looking East.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1570.--Loudoun Church. + +South Doorway, &c.] + +round the church so that the splayed base seen in Mr. Schultz’s drawings +is now buried to the extent of about 2 feet. + +The masonry of the ruin is of fine ashlar, in regular courses. + + + + +LYNE CHURCH, PEEBLESSHIRE. + + +This building, which is still used as the parish church, is situated on +the Lyne Water, near the Tweed, about three miles above Peebles. It +stands on the summit of a mound, which is occupied as the churchyard. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1571.--Lyne Church. Plan.] + +The building (Fig. 1571) is a tiny one, measuring internally only about +34 feet by 11 feet. The windows and doorway are on the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1572.--Lyne Church. View from South-East.] + +south side (Fig. 1572) and in each gable, there being no opening in the +north wall. The windows have simple tracery of a late type, and the +jambs have backfillets (a late feature) round the openings. There are +angle buttresses at the west end, and a modern belfry on the apex of the +west gable. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1573.--Lyne Church. Pulpit.] + +Some good fragments of old woodwork survive in the church, particularly +a pulpit (Fig. 1573), which, it is usually stated, was made in Holland. +Lyne is distant from the sea and must have been difficult of access; for +which reason, amongst others, we doubt whether there is any truth in the +tradition. The pulpit, which is circular in plan, is quite simple in +design, and its construction would not present a formidable task to a +Scottish country wright, judging by other examples of woodwork made in +Scotland about this time. Some of the other woodwork bears the date +1644, and one of the pews, now removed, was dated 1606.[245] The church +has been frequently repaired, which accounts for the loss of such +examples. + +“The district was, in the twelfth century, a chapelry dependent on +Stobo.”[246] Robert, the chaplain of Lyne, is a witness to a charter in +the Register of Glasgow, between 1208 and 1213; but of the early church +then existing nothing now remains, the present structure probably dating +from the beginning of the seventeenth century. + + + + +MORHAM CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +A retired parish church about four miles east from Haddington. It is +stated to have been built in 1724, but some portions of ornamental +carving built into the south wall (Fig. 1574) would seem to indicate +that they had formed part of an earlier structure. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1574.--Morham Church. Fragment built into South +Wall.] + +The only architectural feature connected with the church is the +elevation of the north wing or aisle (Fig. 1575), which, although it +corresponds well with the date of the building, is in a somewhat unusual +style for a Scottish church of the period. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1575.--Morham Church. North Aisle.] + + + + +CHURCH OF ST. FIACRE OR FITTACK, NIGG, KINCARDINESHIRE. + + +A ruined church standing in the centre of an ancient churchyard, +situated about three miles south-east from Aberdeen. The church is +probably one of those built during the short period of Episcopal +government in the seventeenth century. It consists (Fig. 1576) of a +single chamber, but there are indications of an arch across from side to +side, where shown by dotted lines on the Plan, which may have marked a +chancel. The building is 48 feet 6 inches in length by 20 feet 6 inches +in width internally, and has been roofless for more than half a +century. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1577.--Church of St. Fiacre or Fittack, Nigg. View +from South-West.] + +The lintelled door is on the south side, and there are two other doors +on the north side, one of them being in the supposed chancel. + +The belfry (Fig. 1577) appears to have been rebuilt in 1703. A row of +projecting corbels, which probably supported a previous belfry, are left +projecting under the new one. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1576.--Church of St. Fiacre or Fittack, Nigg. Plan.] + +Immediately adjoining the ruin there is a stately seventeenth century +house, formerly the manse, now occupied by an agricultural tenant and +farm labourers. + +The building is on the site of an early church, which was granted by +William the Lion to his favourite Abbey of Arbroath, and it remained as +one of its dependaries till the Reformation. + + + + +OLDHAMSTOCKS CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. + + +The main portion of this church, although its walls may in part be old, +is not of much architectural merit, but the chancel (Fig. 1578) is not +without interest as a specimen of late Gothic work. It is now used as a +burial vault, and is completely ivy clad. It measures about 18 or 20 +feet square, and is of modest height, being some 10 or 12 feet to the +eaves. + +The chief feature is the east window, with its rude tracery. The latter, +which is of a different stone from the jambs and sills, is probably a +restoration of late in the sixteenth century, while the chancel itself +may be a little earlier. The building is vaulted with a barrel vault, +and is covered on the exterior with overlapping stone slabs. It is +impossible to say whether it contains any features of pre-Reformation +times. The door seen on the south side of the choir is dated 1701. + +Of the panels half concealed in the ivy, the one on the right contains +the arms of Thomas Hepburn, incumbent of Oldhamstocks, and of his wife, +Margaret Sinclair, who died in 1581. This Thomas Hepburn was admitted +Master of Requests to Queen Mary two days after her marriage with +Bothwell, and he was tried and convicted for aiding the Queen in her +escape from Lochleven.[247] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1578.--Oldhamstocks Church.] + +This church is of an old foundation. In 1127 Aldulph, the presbyter of +Aldehamstoc, witnessed a charter of Robert, the Bishop of St. Andrews, +and the church is rated in the ancient _Taxatio_ and in _Bagimond’s +Roll_. It is also recorded as an existing rectory in the Archbishop’s +Roll of 1547. + +There is a peculiar sundial on the south-west corner of the church, +which is illustrated.[248] It may be mentioned that in the centre of the +west end of the church there is a tower which is finished at the top +with a modern belfry. This tower or turret is probably of +pre-Reformation date. + + + + +ORMISTON CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +Only a small portion of the old church of Ormiston, in which Wishart and +Knox more than once officiated, has been preserved. It stands close to +the mansion house of Ormiston Hall, about one mile south from the +village of Ormiston. A new church having been erected about a quarter of +a mile distant, the old church has been allowed to go to decay. The +surviving fragment of the latter appears to have been the east end. +There are several stones built into the walls which must have belonged +to a Norman church, being carved with the chevron ornament. + +The Church of Ormiston was dedicated to St. Giles. It was granted to the +Hospital of Soltre, founded by Malcolm IV., which was confirmed by the +Bishop of St. Andrews in the thirteenth century. + +This church was subsequently made a prebend of the Church of the Holy +Trinity at Edinburgh, founded by Mary of Gueldres. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1579.--Ormiston Church. Plan.] + +The building (Fig. 1579) has been enclosed at the west end with a modern +wall, and measures, within the enclosure, 16 feet 6 inches in length by +13 feet 6 inches in width. It contains in the south wall the outlines of +two windows, now built up, and of one window in the north wall. These +have apparently been altered at some time and made square-headed. An +archway of considerable height (Fig. 1580) stands in the continuation of +the south wall westwards. It is in two orders, the outer order square +and the inner order splayed. This doorway has apparently entered into +the church, which, judging from the height of the archway, must have had +side walls of considerable height. They are now reduced as shown, and a +roof was put upon the east portion during this century, which renders +the interior very dark. + +In the north wall of the chancel there is a monument of some importance +(Fig. 1581), as it contains one of the few brasses which exist in +Scotland. The brass consists of an engraved plate containing an +inscription to the memory of Alexander Cockburn, one of the members of +the family to whom the adjoining mansion house belonged. He died, as the +inscription tells, at an early age. The upper part of the inscription is +metrical, and was composed by the learned George Buchanan, and + +[Illustration: FIG. 1580.--Ormiston Church. South Side.] + +appears in his published works. Alexander Cockburn was a pupil of John +Knox, and in 1547 sought refuge in the Castle of St. Andrews. On the +dexter base of the brass are engraved the Cockburn arms, and on the +sinister base the arms of Sandilands, for the mother of a Cockburn, who +was of the family of Sandilands of Calder. These arms are quartered with +the arms of Douglas, and show the ancient relationship between that +family and the Sandilands.[249] + +The barony of Ormiston was the property of the Cockburns from the middle +of the fourteenth century, when they acquired it by marriage. + +The monument was no doubt erected not long after the death of the person +commemorated, or towards the end of the sixteenth century. It +corresponds in style with that of the Regent Murray, in St. Giles’ +Cathedral, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1581.--Ormiston Church. Monument to Alexander +Cockburn.] + +Edinburgh[250] (1570), the inscription on which was also composed by +George Buchanan. That at Ormiston is as follows:-- + + Omnia quæ longa indulget mortalibus ætas + Haec tibi Alexander prima juventa dedit + Cum genere et forma generoso sanguine digna + Ingenium velox, ingenuumque animum + Excolint virtus animum ingeniumque Camenae + Successu studio consilioque pari + His ducibus primum Peragrata Britannia deinde + Gallia ad armiferos qua patet Helvetios + Doctus ibi linguas quas Roma Sionet Athenae + Quas cum Germano Gallia docta sonat + Te licet in prima rapuerunt fata juventa + Nonimmaturo funera raptus obis + Omnibus officiis vitae qui functus obivit + Non fas nunc vitae est de brevitate queri + Hic conditur Mr. Alexander Cokburn + primogenitua Joannis domini Ormiston + et Alisonae Sandilands ex preclara + familia Calder, qui natus 13 Januarii 1535 + post insignem linguarum professionem + Obiit anno ætatis suae 28 Calen. Septe.[251] + + + + +PITTENWEEM PRIORY, FIFESHIRE. + + +Of the old monastery of Pittenweem, which was connected with that on the +Isle of May in the Frith of Forth, only some altered fragments survive. +The priory seems to have derived its name from its being built close to +a cave or “weem” on the shore of the Frith of Forth, with which it had +communication by a vaulted chamber in the garden and a long straight +staircase. The monastic buildings surrounded a courtyard. On the south +side was the prior’s mansion (now restored and occupied by the Episcopal +clergyman of the place). On the west side was the refectory, now +converted into the Town Hall, and to the north of it the dormitories. + +Some of the walls of these structures still exist, with two square +projecting windows overlooking the courtyard. On the east side is the +gatehouse, a battlemented structure with a round archway passing through +it, now greatly decayed and covered with ivy. Beyond the courtyard to +the north lay some outer grounds and a chapel.[252] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1583.--Pittenweem Priory. Tower, from North-East.] + +After the Reformation the buildings passed into the hands of laymen, and +the monastery became the “manor place of Pittenweem.” In 1588 a portion +of the grounds was granted to the burgh, in order that a suitable church +might be erected, which was carried out soon thereafter (Fig. 1582). +Possibly some portions of the church of the priory are included in this +building, but it has in recent years been restored and extended. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1582.--Pittenweem Priory. Plan.] + +The quaint tower (Fig. 1583), with its mixture of Gothic and classic +features, is the only part which has not been interfered with. The +tower, which stands at the north-west angle of the church, is about 18 +feet square externally. It rises with a plain square outline for a +considerable way without buttresses or anything to distinguish it from a +castle keep. There are even shot-holes under the windows, as in the +domestic structures of the time. The stair turret in the north-east +angle has the outline and corbelled gablet similar to the cape-house of +the stair turrets of the Scotch castles of the period. The spire, with +its remarkable lucarnes, helps to give the erection a little more of an +ecclesiastical character, but the balustrade again recalls the attention +to the domestic and Renaissance style of the design.[253] + + + + +POLWARTH CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE.[254] + + +This church (Fig. 1584) was reconstructed in 1703, and is believed to +rest on the foundations of an older structure, dedicated by Bishop +Bernham in 1242. The building measures 55 feet by 24 feet over the +walls. Although of such a late date, it is of pleasing form, and has +fine large mouldings round the doors and panels above them. A stone on +the east gable contains the Polwarth arms, three piles engrailed. + +The font of the old church stands outside the building. It is of a round +form 28 inches in diameter. The basin, which is 22 inches in diameter, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1584.--Polwarth Church.] + +is 11½ inches deep, with a central aperture. The height of the fragment +is 21 inches. + + + + +HERALDIC PANEL FROM PRESTONPANS CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE.[255] + + +This panel (Fig. 1585) was discovered in 1891 during some alterations of +the seating of the church. It then formed the back of a seat in the +gallery, and was concealed by a green cloth. Doubtless, from its +heraldic decorations, it must originally have occupied a more prominent +position. The arms and initials show that it belonged to the Hamiltons +of Preston. The date on the panel (1604) connects it with an earlier +church, the present church having been erected later. The panel is of +oak and in good preservation, except where cut away to make it fit its +new position, and the colours are still rich and fresh. The panel is in +two pieces, each 2 feet 3 inches high. The whole is divided into eight +compartments, of which only four bear arms. They are all arched, and are +separated by + +[Illustration: FIG. 1585.--Heraldic Panel from Prestonpans Church.] + +pilasters. On the four compartments arms, surrounded by laurel wreaths, +are blazoned in colour, together with initials. The initials G. H. and +B. C., which refer to George Hamilton, Laird of Preston, and Barbara +Cockburn, his wife, are carved in relief in the spandrils. The letters +painted within the arches, viz.,S/J. H. and D./K. H. stand for Sir John +Hamilton, the son of the above, and Dame Katherine Howieson, his second +wife, married 1620. The lady died 1629. The shields beneath these +initials contain the Hamilton arms twice, and the Cockburn and Howieson +arms for the wives of the father and son. The initials of the son and +his wife were carved over the windows of the tower, while over the +centre window they appear in a monogram with the date 1626. + +This panel, which is one of the very few early coloured decorations +which survive in Scotland, is now in the possession of General Sir +William Stirling Hamilton of Preston. + + + + +RATHAN CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +A ruinous building situated about three miles south from Fraserburgh, +and standing in an old churchyard. The east end has entirely +disappeared, and only a small part of the north wall remains (Fig. +1586). What + +[Illustration: FIG. 1586.--Rathan Church. Plan.] + +survives of the south wall of the nave is 49 feet long, but it doubtless +considerably exceeded that length; the interior width is 21 feet. A +south aisle is entire, but roofless. It enters from the nave by a plain +round-arched opening (Fig. 1587) 8 feet 8 inches wide, and the outside +dimensions of the aisle are 35 feet long by 20 feet 8 inches wide. + +The nave (see Fig. 1587) has a door in the west end, with a window + +[Illustration: FIG. 1587.--Rathan Church. Interior of South and West +Sides.] + +above and a belfry on the apex of the gable, dated 1782, which probably +superseded an earlier one. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1588.--Rathan Church. Doorway of Aisle.] + +The aisle has a round-arched doorway (Fig. 1588) with a bar hole in the +west wall, and over it a panel with an inscription in raised letters, +“ALEXANDER FRASER OF PHILORTH, PATRON,” a coat of arms, and part of a +broken stone with an inscription. It is possible that these stones are +not original, but have been inserted; they are so covered with ivy that +it is not easy to determine. In the south gable (Fig. 1589), which is +crow-stepped, there is a well-moulded window with a straight lintel, and +a sundial over. In the east wall there is an ambry (Fig. 1590) with an +ogee arch, and alongside it what was probably a piscina is now filled +with an old memorial inscription. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1589.--Rathan Church. + +Window in South Gable.] + +The Church of Rathan was dedicated to St. Ethernan or Eddran, from whom +the place is said to take its name. This saint lived towards the end of +the sixth century. “He consecrated several churches, and particularly +Rethin, which was afterwards dedicated to his own memory.”[256] + +Richard, parson of Rathen, is a witness to charters by Adam, Bishop of +Aberdeen, between 1207 and 1228, and the benefice of Rathyn was given to +the Chapter and College of Canons of St. Machar’s Cathedral by Robert i. +in 1328; and in 1520 Rathyne was let in lease for the yearly rent of +£212.[257] + +Of the early church nothing remains. On the south aisle of the existing +structure, according to the Rev. Mr. Pratt, there is the date + +[Illustration: FIG. 1590.--Rathan Church. + +Ambry.] + +1646. It may be that part of the church is somewhat older than this +date. Ten years earlier there appear to have been building and repairs +going on; and an action was brought before the Privy Council to restrain +Alexander Fraser of Philorth from putting up his arms on the newly built +kirk stile.[258] What was the result of the case we do not know, but +Fraser evidently succeeded in getting his name carved on the church, as +we see, together with his arms and his title of patron. + + + + +SOUTHANNAN CHAPEL AND CASTLE, WEST KILBRIDE, AYRSHIRE. + + +About one mile south from the railway station of Fairlie, on the level +ground facing the sea, and with its back close to the railway, stands +the ruin of Southannan Castle. It has been an extensive structure (Fig. +1591), having had a high enclosing wall, with a courtyard and an arched +entrance porch to the west, defended with shot-holes (Fig. 1592). There + +[Illustration: FIG. 1591.--Southannan Chapel and Castle. Plan.] + +has been a considerable range of dwelling-house accommodation, two +stories in height, along the north side, and smaller buildings on the +east side, leaving a large courtyard in the centre, now forming the +garden of the adjoining farmhouse (Fig. 1593). The situation is fine, +and the edifice is backed by the high range of thickly wooded hills +which extends between Largs and Kilbride. + +The lands of Southannan were granted to Lord Semple in 1504. Chalmers +says[259] that John, Lord Semple, in the reign of James IV., built a +chapel, which was dedicated to St. Annan or St. Ennan, and granted for +the support of the chaplain in it an annual rent of 10 merks from +certain lands, “with two sowmes of pasture grass in the mains of +Southennan, + +[Illustration: FIG. 1592.--Southannan Chapel and Castle. View from +West.] + +and an acre of land on the north side of the cemetery belonging to the +said chapel for the chaplain’s manse. This grant was confirmed by the +king in June 1509. The ruins of the chapel are still extant in the + +[Illustration: FIG. 1593.--Southannan Chapel and Castle. North-West +Angle of Courtyard.] + +front of the fine mansion of Southennan, which is also in ruins.” “Saint +Inan or Innan is said to have been a confessor at Irvine, and to have +died in 839.” + +The castle was much enlarged by Robert, fourth Lord Sempill, ambassador +to the Court of Spain in 1596; but some of the existing remains have the +appearance of being still more modern. The old mansion was dismantled +towards the end of last century, and the materials used in the erection +of farm-buildings and dykes. “What remains are chiefly the outer walls +to the left (north) of the courtyard and some more ancient-looking +remnants at the back (east), attached to which are remains of what may +have been the chapel of the saint.”[260] This may be the case, as some +of the walls are old and have been altered; but the vaulted chamber to +the east has the appearance of being much more modern. + +On the whole, we fear that the chapel has entirely disappeared, and that +this account of Southannan should rather have appeared amongst the +castles than the churches of Scotland. + + + + +STENTON CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +The village of Stenton is situated about three and a half miles +south-east from East Linton Railway Station. The church (Fig. 1594), +which, with the exception of the tower and the entrance doorway, is a +total ruin (Fig. 1595), extends for a length of about 65 feet, but as +the east end is + +[Illustration: FIG. 1594.--Stenton Church. Plan.] + +entirely gone, it is impossible to say how much longer it was. The width +of the building within the walls is about 18 feet. The doorway (Fig. +1596), which is on the south side near the west end, is arched with a +flat segment of a circle, with the mouldings of the jambs (Fig. 1597) +continued round the arch, and with a splayed impost separating the arch +and jambs. The arch is finished with a hood moulding. The small +flat-headed window seen alongside the doorway (see Fig. 1595) is an +insertion probably of the seventeenth century, and no other feature of +the church is now in existence, except indications of a north door (see +Plan). + +The tower, however, stands complete and entire at the south-west corner +of the structure. It measures about 16 feet 6 inches by 15 feet + +[Illustration: FIG. 1595.--Stenton Church. Tower, &c., from South-East.] + +9 inches over the walls, and is two stories in height. It is entered by +a narrow flat lintelled door on the south side. The space inside is +about 10 feet by 7 feet, but it has been narrowed by masonry at the +ground level, as shown on the Plan, to a width of about 5 feet. The +tower communicated with the church by a doorway, now built up. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1596.--Stenton Church. Doorway.] + +The upper story, which has a timber floor, has been reached by a ladder. +It is lighted by a window on each face, round arched + +[Illustration: FIG. 1597.--Stenton Church. + +Moulding of Doorway.] + +and widely splayed, and the arches are cut out of single stones. The +tower finishes with a saddle-backed roof and crow-stepped gables, the +whole being of the original construction. + +From indications remaining against the north wall of the tower, there +has doubtless been a high window in the west gable of the church. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1598.--Font and Top Stone of Gable.] + +The whole structure appears to be of the sixteenth century. The top +stone of the east gable and a simple circular font (Fig. 1598) are lying +near the ruin. + + + + +STOW CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN. + + +The village of Stow is situated on the Gala Water, in the southern part +of Mid-Lothian, near the borders of Roxburghshire and Peeblesshire. + +The parish was originally called Wedale, and the church belonged to the +Bishop of St. Andrews, who had a residence there. Hence the village was +known as the Stow of Wedale. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1599.--Stow Church. Plan.] + +The original Church of St. Mary was at a distance from the village, but +the existing ruin, which is partly of some antiquity, stands in the +ancient churchyard close to the village. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1600.--Stow Church. View from South-West.] + +The structure is for the most part of seventeenth century date, but a +portion at the south-west angle is much older, and has been +incorporated with the newer building. The plan of the church, as it now +stands (Fig. 1599), consists of an oblong 67 feet in length by 21 feet +in width internally, with a wing on the south side 14 feet long by 11 +feet wide within the walls. + +The principal oblong chamber appears to have been constructed at two +different times, there being a break in the interior of the wall at 20 +feet from the east end. There is also a slight exterior projection on +the outside of the north wall at the same point. The eastern addition +has evidently been made so as to provide a gallery, probably a private +one, at this end. The gallery was entered by a long slope or ramp on the +exterior of the east wall, beneath which was a door giving access to the +space below the gallery. The gallery and space below were lighted by +square-headed windows in the south wall. On the jamb of the east doorway +is carved the date 1799. + +The arrangements at the west end have been similar to those at the east +end. There was a gallery, lighted by a large traceried window (Fig. +1600) in the west wall of seventeenth century design, and the space +below the gallery had two square-headed windows in the same wall, +divided with mullions. A round-headed doorway in the south wall gave + +[Illustration: FIG. 1601. + +Stow Church. + +Mouldings of South Doorway.] + +access to the space under the gallery, the mouldings of which (Fig. +1601) clearly indicate a late date. Adjoining this doorway is the +portion of the structure above alluded to as being of ancient date. This +consists of a plain buttress built with freestone ashlar, and a small +part of the south and west walls connected with it, including a base +splay on the south side. These walls are built with the same kind of +materials as the buttress, while the greater part of the walls are +constructed with rubble work. The buttress has the broad form with small +projection, and the simple water table of Norman or transition work. + +The projection or “aisle” on the south side of the church has also +contained a private gallery, with a fireplace in the south wall. The +mouldings of the doorway indicate seventeenth or eighteenth century +work. + +There are no windows in the north wall, but some portions of the masonry +are of ashlar work and may be of the period of the south-west angle. + +The belfry, the vane of which bears the date of 1794, is a comparatively +late addition. It is supported on corbels projecting from the inside of +the wall. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1602.--Terregles Church after Restoration.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1603.--Terregles Church before Restoration.] + + + + +TERREGLES CHURCH, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. + + +This curious structure (Fig. 1602) is situated about two and a-half +miles north-west from Dumfries. It was erected by the fourth Lord +Herries shortly before his death in 1583. + +A few years ago this “queir” or choir was completely restored, and the +buttresses were then added. Omitting these it may be regarded as a fair +example of the quaint architecture of James VI.’s time, when the revival +of Gothic was attempted, along with the revival of Episcopacy. + +[Illustration: FINIALS ON CORNERS OF CHANCEL + +AGNES LADY HERRIES + +FIG. 1604.--Terragles Church. Details of Finials and Coat of Arms of +Agnes, Lady Herries.] + +We are fortunate in being able to show a drawing (Fig. 1603) of the +church made by the late Mr. W. F. Lyon, architect, in 1872, before it +was restored. Fig. 1604 shows details of the finials and the arms of +Agnes, Lady Herries, which are carved on the church. The date 1585 is +cut in the cornice over the east window. + +Before the Reformation this church belonged to the nunnery of Lincluden, +and the collegiate church which succeeded it. + + + + +TURRIFF CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE. + + +This ancient church, which was dedicated to St. Congan, is a very old +foundation, having probably been established, in the seventh century, by +a follower of St. Columba. It received donations at various early dates, +amongst others one by King Robert the Bruce. In 1272 it was attached by +the Earl of Buchan to an almshouse for thirteen poor husbandmen. The +church was 120 feet long by 18 feet wide, but is now reduced to the +fragment of the choir, crowned with the picturesque belfry shown by the +sketches. The belfry (Fig. 1605) is interesting as an example of the +application to an ecclesiastical edifice of the Scottish style so +general in + +[Illustration: FIG. 1605.--Turriff Church. + +Belfry.] + +the domestic architecture of the seventeenth century. There is a strong +dash of Renaissance taste in the design; but the cornice with its small +corbels, and the string course with its moulded supports, might be +details from any old Scottish castle. The bell bears the date 1557. A +curious relic of the older structure has, however, been discovered in +the choir in the form of an antique wall-painting of St. Ninian. + +The interior of the choir contains + +[Illustration: FIG. 1606.--Turriff Church. Gateway to Courtyard.] + +a very interesting and remarkably picturesque series of monumental +slabs, with a quantity of well-executed lettering. One of these tablets +is to the memory of a member of the family of Barclay of Towie, of date +1636, with a Latin inscription still legible. + +The churchyard contains a number of interesting monuments of the same +date as the belfry. + +The gateway to the churchyard (Fig. 1606) is a simple but pleasing +specimen of the early Scottish Renaissance, similar in style to the +belfry. + + + + +WALSTON CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE. + + +The parish church of Walston stands on a height overlooking the vale of +the river Medwin, about two miles west from Dolphinton. Till near the +end of the thirteenth century the Church of Walston was a lay rectory in +the gift of the Lord of the Manor. It is specially referred to in an +award of 1293.[261] The edifice stands in an ancient churchyard, and not +far from what was formerly a mansion known as the “Place of Walston.” + +[Illustration: FIG. 1607.--Walston Church. Plan.] + +The existing church (Fig. 1607) stands north and south, and is a long +single chamber 64 feet 6 inches in length and 16 feet in width +internally. A portion has been cut off the north end to form a vestry. +The original church is believed to have stood east and west. At the +south end a portion of the existing structure is evidently, from its +workmanship, of a different period from the remainder. The ashlar work +of which it is built is seen to stop beyond the first window from the +south (Fig. 1608). This was doubtless the wing or transept erected by +Robert Baillie of Walston, in 1650, as a burial-place for his family. +The remainder of the church was rebuilt in its new position in +continuation of the south wing by the Rev. Patrick Molleson, minister +(born 1746, died 1825), who has placed the letters M. P. M. and the date +1789 on the north gable. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1608.--Walston Church. View from South-West.] + +The south wing is the only part worthy of notice. The window shows the +feeling for the Gothic revival of the seventeenth century. In the panel +over it is the inscription “Give God the onlie honour and glory. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1609.--Walston Church, showing Dormer.] + +Anno 1656.” The entrance doorway to the wing, which contained a tomb +below and a gallery above, is in the east side. Over the flat lintelled +door is the quotation, “Keep thy foot when thou goest to the House of +God, and be more ready to hear than to give the sacrifice of +fools.--Ecclesiastes, chapter V., verse 1.” The tomb and gallery are now +removed, and the space thrown into the church. In the pavement on the +site is inscribed “In memory of John Allain, Esq., of Elsrickle.” The +quaint dormer window, shown in Fig. 1609, was taken down during the +repairs made on the church a few years ago. + + +WEEM CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.[262] + +The ruined church of Weem stands in the village of that name, near the +entrance to Castle Menzies, at a short distance from Aberfeldy. It is +still in a fair state of preservation, the walls being entire, although +greatly overgrown with ivy, and the roof being still intact, with the +belfry on the west gable. The building has been abandoned for many +years. According to Mr. A. H. Millar[262] the Church of Weem is +mentioned about 1296 in the oldest charter at Castle Menzies, and +references in charters are continuous till, in 1510, the Barony of +Menzies was erected by charter from James IV., when “the patronage of +the Kirk of Weem was specially included in the gift.” + +[Illustration: FIG. 1610.--Weem Church. Inscription over East Doorway.] + +The existing building, however, appears to be of a later date, since +over the eastmost doorway there are the impaled arms of Sir Alexander +Menzies and his wife, Margaret Campbell, with their initials, and the +date 1600, together with the inscription shown in Fig. 1610.[263] + +The church (Fig. 1611) is an oblong building, measuring internally about +62 feet 5 inches from east to west by about 19 feet wide, and has a +north transept projecting 21 feet by 17 feet in width. It is ceiled and +plastered at the roof ties. There are two doors and three windows on the +south side, all of which are square headed. In each gable, high up near +the ceiling, there is a window of a pointed form. All the windows and +doors have large bead mouldings. In the inside of the south wall there +are two ambries, one of which contains the initials of Duncan Menzies +and his wife, Jean Leslie, sister of the Earl of Rothes, who were +married in 1623. And on the other occur the initials D. M. + +There are several interesting grave slabs in the church, but the most +remarkable feature is the monument shown in Fig. 1612, which stands +against the north wall near the east end, as indicated on the Plan. It +is an important example of Scottish Renaissance work, and contains a +great amount of detail, much of it very elaborate. + +The sixteenth or seventeenth century monuments in Scotland may be +divided into two classes, viz.:--First, the class represented by the +Montgomery monument at Largs,[264] and the seventeenth century monument +in Seton Church, which are almost pure Italian, with very little of the +previous Gothic manner, and almost nothing of local or Scottish feeling. +Monuments of this class may probably be the design, if not the work, of +foreign hands. In the second class are the monuments which seem to + +[Illustration: FIG. 1611.--Weem Church. Plan.] + +owe their design and execution to native skill, and amongst these may be +included this monument at Weem. The structure measures about 13 feet in +length at the base, and has a projection from the wall of about 2 feet. + +The general scheme of the design is of an ordinary form, consisting of +an arched recess above a dado or pedestal, which is divided into three +panels separated from each other by delicate tapering shafts. At each +side rises a half round engaged shaft to carry the moulded arch above. +These shafts have capitals, rudely carved with oak leaves, supporting +square abaci. Above the arch there is a level cornice slightly broken at +intervals over figures beneath. At each side of the monument a large +figure stands on a finely designed pedestal, the one representing Faith +and the other Charity. The former holds a book with the inscription, +_Quidquid fit sine Fide est peccatum_, while the figure of Charity is +represented in the usual typical manner. The figures are surmounted with +very beautiful canopies reaching nearly up to the cornice. Above the +cornice a rudimentary pediment contains the Menzies and Campbell arms +and monograms, over which, and leaning forward, is a panel having a +figure with + +[Illustration: FIG. 1612.--Monument in Weem Church.] + +outstretched arms, supposed to symbolise the Creator. At each end of the +cornice is a kneeling figure placed before a small pedestal shaped like +a prie-dieu. + +This monument having been erected not to the memory of one individual, +but of several, was probably not intended to contain any recumbent +figure, although the space for one is provided. Such a figure would +have in a great measure concealed the descriptive tablet and its +accompanying heraldry, which occupy the background of the recess. The +monument bears the date of the 24th January 1616, and was erected +by the Sir Alexander Menzies already referred to, to perpetuate the +memory of his two wives and of his maternal ancestors, beginning with +his great-great-grandmother. The names of all these ladies, with the +arms of their respective houses, adorn the monument, and need not be +repeated here, as full information regarding them will be found in Mr. +Millar’s work, already cited. + + + + +YESTER CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. + + +The parish church of Yester stands at the north end of the village of +Gifford, about four and a half miles south of Haddington. The + +[Illustration: FIG. 1613.--Gifford Tower, from South-West.] + +ancient church of Yester has already been described. It was superseded +last century by the present structure, which is a plain oblong chamber +of the usual style of the period, but with a tower on the south side +(Fig. 1613), which is a good example of that class of erection at the +period. + + + +NOTE. + +The illustration or tailpiece on the following page shows a remarkable +specimen of early Scottish sculpture, preserved in the Museum of the +Society of Antiquaries of Scotland in Edinburgh. + +The stone, which is about 6 feet in length, was found in the River May, +Perthshire, and is supposed to have come from an ancient church which +formerly occupied a site within a rath or stronghold which stood on the +Holy Hill, on the bank of the river, near Forteviot, about two miles +from Forgandenny.[265] The last traces of the rath and church were swept +away by a flood which occurred in the beginning of this century. + +This early church is probably that referred to in the legend of St. +Andrew given in the _Pictish Chronicle_ as the church built at Forteviot +by Hungus, the Pictish king (731-761), in the last year of his reign, +after the arrival of the relics of St. Andrew in Scotland.[266] Although +the character of the sculpture seems rather to suggest a date not quite +so early, it may, nevertheless, be surmised that the figures depicted on +the stone are those of King Hungus and his three sons, seated in the +usual royal attitude, with the sword across the knees. + +From the arched form of the stone it seems most likely to have been a +chancel arch, a feature which would scarcely be expected in Scotland in +the eighth century. The primitive church may, however, have been +rebuilt, possibly in the tenth century, when a church with a chancel +would more probably be erected, having the stone in question for its +chancel arch. The small upright animal in the centre of the arch, having +a cross in front of it, seems to represent the Paschal lamb; while the +other nondescript animal at the feet of the king may be an early example +of the practice usual in mediæval monuments of resting the feet of the +effigy on an animal.[267] On the Ruthwell Cross the figure of the +Saviour appears standing on the heads of two animals. + +[Illustration: Sculptured Stone from Ruins of Ancient Church at +Forteviot, Perthshire.] + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +The following is a statement by Mr. W. Galloway in defence of his views +regarding the date of the walls of St. Blane’s Church, Bute:[268]-- + + “Objections are taken in the notice of St. Blane’s Chapel, Bute + (Vol. I. p. 297), to the views advanced by me in the _Archæologia + Scotica_ (Vol. V. p. 217) as to the priority in date and + construction of the rubble part of the chancel, over the Romanesque + structure conjoined with it. These are specially summarised under + three heads, in the first of which exception is taken to the fact + of there being a base, topped with a small splayed freestone + course, with rubble above and below, which is supposed to + contravene the ideas ordinarily entertained as to Celtic practice. + This practice, however, was strictly dependent upon and fixed by + the nature of the building materials that happened to be available + in any particular locality. In out of the way districts and far-off + islands, where freestone was unknown or not procurable, the builder + had to be content with the stone that came most readily to hand, + necessity, not choice, compelling his selection. This is proven by + the avidity with which the Celt took to freestone whenever it could + be got. + + “No better illustration can be selected than Oransay Priory (Vol. + III. pp. 372-381). There the south cloister arcade, the door to the + church adjoining it, with the chapel projecting at the north-east + angle (and to these may be added the _Teampul na ghlinne_, on the + Colonsay side of the strand), are examples of rubble building, in + the local schist, where arches are turned and openings formed + without a trace of freestone or any material that could be hewn. + The portion of a mullion of transitional date found in the ruins + proves that freestone had been imported to the island by the close + of the twelfth century, and was in constant use thereafter. + + “It would be a serious mistake, however, to place in the same + category the Island of Bute, where freestone (red) occurs locally, + and the best qualities of rock on the adjoining mainland. Freestone + was in common use with the Romans both for monumental work and + building, and it is precisely this simple splayed form of base + which is most frequently to be found. As to its use in Celtic work + there may be cited Cruggleton Chapel (Vol. I. pp. 212-215), about + three miles from Whitherne Priory, which by every criterion is + extremely primitive, much earlier than the priory, and also Celtic, + founded most probably by the Carrols or M‘Kerlies, who wrested the + castle from the Norse jarls. There the base, which has been laid on + the grass level, has a base course precisely similar to that of St. + Blane’s, with rubble above and below. In fact, the entire building + is rubble, except the dressed work and the chancel arch. It is not + freestone, but silurian grit, from the Stewartry shores. It is no + doubt later in date than St. Blane’s, but Bute is much more + favourably situated for freestone than Wigtonshire, where it is + locally non-existent, and the combination of rubble and hewn work + at Cruggleton is a striking testimony to the difficulty even of + obtaining grit. + + “The second head refers to the mode in which the strings and base + courses would be stopped against the rubble. According to my + drawings there has been a string on the north side of the nave, + which dropped nearly two feet, has also run along the ashlar work + of the chancel, but only two feet or so of it remains. On the south + side this feature is entirely destroyed. The base, both on north + and south sides of the nave, returns round the chancel gable and + _there terminates_. Whether they were dropped also I cannot tell, + as these drawings were made previous to the later reduction of the + soil to the original level.[269] An important point in this + junction of rubble and ashlar walls must be noted, viz., that while + the ashlar walls are 2 feet 7 inches thick, the rubble wall on the + south side is only 2 feet 5 inches, and that on the north 2 feet 3 + inches. The walls meet flush on the outside, and on the inside the + ashlar corner is splayed off in accommodation to the thinner + rubble, and those who managed thus would find no difficulty in such + trivialities as a string or a base. + + “Under the third head it is queried whether the ‘_Norman_ builders’ + were likely to show such tender mercy to a rubble fragment? I + presume ‘Norman’ here means _Anglo_-Norman, the conquering race, + who looked with contempt on all that pertained to those they held + in thrall. Civil changes notwithstanding, in Bute it was otherwise. + There the same traditions were handed down from Celt to Scot, and + the name of St. Blaan was reverenced, not merely on local grounds, + but as being still more intimately associated with a northern see. + The very curious _melange_ at the east end of the chapel is + attributed to one of those ‘accidents’ which, from a variety of + sources, often befel buildings in ancient times. The late Mr John + Baird, at a meeting of the Architectural Institute of Scotland held + in Glasgow a good many years ago, suggested that the original + termination had been an apse, but the chancel being found too + small, this feature was demolished and the building extended to its + present limits. Notwithstanding all that has been said, I consider + both the apse and the accident theories to be at once untenable and + unnecessary, and will, as briefly as possible, give three + _criteria_ on which I regard the proof of antecedency in date and + construction of the rubble work ultimately to depend, and to be + incontrovertible. First, in a rubble wall of any posterior date, + built to conjoin with a previous ashlar one, it is only reasonable + to suppose it would have been gauged to the same thickness, so that + the respective wall faces might be flush, both externally and + internally, so as to avoid the very awkward junction which there + really has been. Second, this rubble wall must necessarily have + been carried to the same height and level, in the wall-head, as the + ashlar built portion, instead of being dropped nearly three feet + below it, as the present rubble work really is. Third, the existing + Romanesque structure shows that freestone, both red and white, was + readily to be had by importation or otherwise in Bute, during the + twelfth century, and ever afterwards, and it is beyond all reason + and experience, that in the chancel especially rubble of some local + rock should have been adopted when the superior quality previously + in use could be so easily obtained. + + “These three _criteria_ combined, the thinness (relatively) of the + rubble walling, the lower level of the wall-head, and the extreme + improbability of any subsequent builders being reduced to the + necessity of falling back on rubble, lead irresistibly to the + conviction that on this site there existed a much smaller and more + ancient chapel, of which the _sacrarium_, carefully respected by + all subsequent builders, now alone remains.” + +At the special request of Mr. P. Macgregor Chalmers, author of the work +_A Scots Mediæval Architect_, we insert in this Volume extracts, revised +and approved by him, from his reply to our criticism contained in Vol. +II. pp. 378-382, in the hope that they may be found to throw additional +light on the late period of Scottish architecture. It must, however, be +understood that we are not to be held as concurring in all Mr. Chalmers’ +views. Our notice of his work was written after our second volume was to +a large extent in type, and we should not have quoted Mr. Pinches’ +reference to church building in Galloway in 1508 (p. 378), as Mr. +Chalmers had already shown in his work that this was a mistake; and on +the same page we should have acknowledged his labours on the Melrose +inscriptions. Mr. Chalmers says:-- + + “You tabulate four formal objections to my work (p. 380). The first + appears to be that I have adopted a certain opinion, which differs + from yours; and you think my work is therefore a ‘fiction,’ a + ‘romance,’ a ‘dream.’ The second objection, based on your + _inference_ that a man who had a Scots name was a Frenchman by + extraction, because he was born in Paris at a time when Scotsmen + were rife in France, need not be taken seriously. The answer to + your third and fourth objections is that I have _proved_, from + original documents quoted, that ‘Morow’ is ‘Murray,’ and that the + variation in spelling, indicated in the Melrose inscriptions, is + the variation for Murray. When you have grasped the importance and + significance of my deduction from the evident choice of Melrose for + the memorial inscriptions, I feel certain you will find more than + ‘fiction’ in my work. + + “I stated that the rood screen at Glasgow was erected by Archbishop + Blacader, and that it was probably begun about the year 1492. The + charter evidence is that the archbishop founded the two altars in + their present position in the base of the screen, and that he + founded the altar _for which the screen was erected_, the altar of + Holy Cross. As the screen encroaches considerably on the original + length of the choir, being of great depth from west to east, it is + natural to suppose that its erection would entail the remodelling + of the choir fittings. It was in the archbishop’s time, then, that + the new choir stalls were constructed. From the measurements given + in the contract for this work, between ‘the dene and cheptour of + Glasgw on the tapairt, and Mychell Waghorn, wrycht, on the toder + pairt,’ it is evident that the carved canopy work was carried as a + cornice across the east or choir side of the screen. Rejecting my + work, you state that the screen at Glasgow was probably built by + Bishop Cameron, who died in 1446. You have no charter evidence to + support you. You have only the mouldings and the sculpture of the + two periods to found your opinion upon. In the illustration I send + you (Fig. 1) I show the earlier mouldings at A and the later + mouldings of the screen at B. Students can now estimate the value + of your opinion. The only moulding in the aisle of Car Fergus, of + Blacader’s time, is the vaulting rib which I show at C. This, you + say, is a ‘coarse’ moulding. But the coarseness is not apparent + when you compare it with the rib in the + + [Illustration: FIG. 1. + + Mouldings of Rood Screen at St. Mungo’s.] + + sacristy (D), of date about 1446; the rib in the chapter house (E), + of date about 1425; or the same rib in the lower church, of date + about 1240. You frequently give expression to your opinion that the + work executed in Scotland about the year 1500 was ‘inferior.’ + Sweeping generalisations of this kind are of no value in our work. + I send you a process block (Fig. 2). It illustrates the carved boss + in the vaulting of the aisle of Car Fergus, of Blacader’s time, + being the very first seen on entering, and so close to the eye that + it may almost be touched by the hand. No work of any + period--certainly not of Bishop Cameron’s time--can excel it in + beauty, and it is only one of many equally beautiful. You state + that the work in the screen ‘is considerably superior to that of + the adjoining altars, which are _certainly_ by that bishop’ + (_Archbishop_ Blacader). It is a fact that you are here comparing + work, which is as sharp as when it left the carver’s hand, with + work at the floor level which is now so worn and defaced as almost + to be obliterated. The altars are of different design, and that now + on the north side is of _earlier date_, and was rebuilt and + repaired only by the archbishop. If this single altar stood + originally in the centre, as the one of the same name did at + Durham, and if, as is not impossible, it was originally built by + Bishop Cameron, then you condemn as ‘inferior’ what, if you had + only known, you ought to praise as ‘superior.’ + + “Mr. Honeyman, whose early opinion you quote, writing to me, for my + use here, says, in reference to the Glasgow rood screen--‘I must + say that circumstances which you have brought to my notice have + considerably changed my opinion regarding this. I quite recognise + the close affinity of the south transept door at Melrose and the + rood screen at Lincluden, and I am quite prepared to believe that + the man who designed these, also designed the rood screen here. If + it can be proved that the work at Melrose and Lincluden was not + executed till about 1480, or later, then I shall feel bound to + agree with you as to the age of our screen.’ The proof as to the + age of the Melrose door has been given in my book. + + “Your reliance on your unwise generalisation regarding the + ‘inferior’ quality of _all_ work at the end of the fifteenth + century has blinded you to the facts at Melrose, as elsewhere. The + magnificent panel carved with the royal arms, of which I gave an + enlarged photograph (p. 55), is dated 1505. There is nothing finer + of its kind in the country, and the carved bosses in the presbytery + vault are remarkable for their rare beauty, and yet one of them + bears the arms of Margaret, wife of James IV. You state that ‘the + building or restoration of the eastern part of the edifice seems, + from its style, to have been carried out towards the middle of the + fifteenth century’ (p. 372). The further statement is made that + ‘the design of the choir appears to have been borrowed from that of + the transept’ (p. 370). These statements are contradictory. The + south transept was not erected until after the middle of the + fifteenth century, by Abbot Andrew Hunter. His arms are to be found + carved on it, and also in the nave chapel, where the work is + unmistakeably from the hand of the same designer. It is indubitable + that the ‘perpendicular’ work was inserted in the older transept. + It has never occurred to you to endeavour to explain the presence + in Scotland + + [Illustration: FIG. 2.--Carved Boss in Vaulting of Aisle of Car + Fergus.] + + of so marked a type of English art _in the middle of the fifteenth + century_, and you have thought it wise to ignore my interpretation + that this style was adopted as an expression of the international + good feeling arising from the marriage of James IV. with Margaret + of England. Perpendicular work is also present at Linlithgow and + Stirling, and there also it is associated with Queen Margaret. + + “I described the statues at the apex of the east gable at Melrose + as those of James IV. and Margaret (p. 53). You say ‘this is an + entire assumption’ (p. 381), and then you immediately _assume_ that + they illustrate the coronation of the Blessed Virgin. If your + interpretation is correct, the act of coronation must be indicated, + and the two figures must be correlated, Christ being turned towards + the Blessed Virgin, either to crown her by His own hand, or to + indicate His interest in the ceremony, whilst Mary is turned + towards Christ in an attitude of tenderness and adoration. These + are obvious requirements. The figures are so disposed in the + examples you cited and illustrated, and it is true of all the + examples I have studied on the Continent and in the cathedrals of + England. At Melrose the figures are not in any way related to each + other. They look straight forward, and, as I proved by the aid of a + telescope before writing my description, no act of crowning is + indicated. The male figure corresponds exactly with that on the + seal of James IV. to which I referred, and the group does not + differ from that shown in a MS. of the middle of the fifteenth + century, which represents a king and queen and their court. I + understand and appreciate the fact that you see no significance in + the angels in the niches below the central group of the king and + queen, and that it is of no importance to you that the figures + which were ranged on either side were not those of saints and + martyrs, but of Churchmen, evidently contemporaries of King James. + As the statue of an archbishop graces the apex of the east gable of + York Minster, there is nothing ridiculous, as you would wish to + make it appear, in a king and queen occupying a similar place at + Melrose. The circumstances and temper of the moment made it appear + appropriate. There is no sarcasm in the concluding paragraph of my + work, although you profess to be able to detect it. It was not + unpleasant to me to find that the point made by the author of _The + Stones of Venice_, from exactly similar exhibitions of vainglory, + could be made from the stones of Scotland. + + P. MACGREGOR CHALMERS.” + + + + +TOPOGRAPHICAL INDEX OF BUILDINGS DESCRIBED IN THE WHOLE WORK. + + +ABERDEENSHIRE. + +Aberdeen, King’s College Chapel +---- Greyfriars’ Church +---- St. Nicholas’ +Aberdour, St. Drostan’s +Auchendoir Church +Deer Abbey +Deer Parish Church +Ellon Monument +Insch Church +Kinkell Church +Kintore Church +Leask, St. Adamnan’s +Lonmay, St. Colm’s +Monymusk Church +Old Aberdeen, St. Machar’s Cathedral +Peterhead, St. Peter’s +Rattray, St. Mary’s +Rathan Church +Turriff Church + + +ARGYLESHIRE. + +Ardchattan Priory +Dunstaffnage Castle Chapel +Eilean Munde, Lochleven +Eilean Naomh +Faslane Church +Islay, Kilchieran Church +---- Kildalton Church +---- Kilnaughton Church +---- Kilneave Church +Iona Cathedral and Priory +---- Nunnery +Iona, St. Oran’s +Inchkenneth, Ulva +Kilmun Collegiate Church +Kintyre, Cara Church +---- Gigha, St. Catan’s +---- Kiels, St. Columba’s +---- Kilchenzie Church +---- Kilchieven Church +---- Kilchouslan Church +---- Killean Church +---- Sanda, St. Ninian’s +Knapdale, Eilean Mor +---- Kilbride Church +---- Kilmory Church +---- St. Carmaig’s, Keil +Lismore Cathedral +Mull, Laggan Church +---- Pennygowan Church +---- Inch Kenneth +Oronsay Priory +Tiree, Kilchenzie Church +---- Kirkapoll Church + + +AYRSHIRE. + +Alloway Kirk +Crosraguel Abbey +Kilmaurs, Monument +Kilwinning Abbey +Kirkoswald Church +Loudoun Church +Maybole Collegiate Church +Monkton, St. Cuthbert’s +Old Dailly Church +Prestwick, St. Nicholas’ +Southannan Castle and Church +Straiton Church + + +BANFFSHIRE. + +Boyndie, St. Brandon’s +Cullen Collegiate Church +Deskford, Sacrament House +Gamrie, St. John’s +Mortlach, St. Moloc’s + + +BERWICKSHIRE. + +Abbey St. Bathans’ +Ayton Church +Bassendean Church +Bunkle Church +Chirnside Church +Cockburnspath Church +Coldingham Priory +Dryburgh Abbey +Duns Church +Edrom Church +Greenlaw Church +Ladykirk Church +Lauder Church +Legerwood Church +Oldhamstocks Church +Polwarth Church +Preston Church +St. Helen’s, Cockburnspath + + +BUTESHIRE. + +Rothesay, St. Mary’s Abbey +Rothesay Castle Chapel +St. Blane’s Church + + +CAITHNESS-SHIRE. + +Lybster, St. Mary’s +Olrig Church + + +DUMBARTONSHIRE. + +Dumbarton Collegiate Church +Dumbarton Parish Church +Kirkton of Kilmahew + + +DUMFRIESSHIRE. + +Canonby Priory +Kirkbride Church +Moffat, St. Cuthbert’s +Sanquhar Church + + +ELGIN OR MORAYSHIRE. + +Altyre Church +Birnie, St. Brandon’s +Drainie Church +Elgin Cathedral +---- Greyfriars’ Church +Kinloss Abbey +Michael Kirk +Pluscardine Priory + + +FIFESHIRE. + +Abdie Church +Anstruther, Easter and Wester, Churches of +Ballingry Church +Balmerino Abbey +Burntisland, St. Adamnan’s +Carnock Church +Crail, St. Macrubha’s Collegiate Church +Creich, St. Devenic’s +Cupar, St. Michael’s +Dalgety, St. Bridget’s +Dunfermline Abbey +Dysart, St. Serf’s +Fordel Chapel +Inchcolm Abbey +Inverkeithing, St. Peter’s +Kemback Church +Kilconquhar Church +Kilrenny Church +Leuchars Church +Lindores Abbey +Markinch Church +Pittenweem Priory +Rosyth Church +St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory +---- Dominican Church +---- Holy Trinity +---- St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh +---- St. Leonard’s +---- St. Regulus’ or St. Rule’s +---- St. Salvator’s +St. Monans Church + + +FORFARSHIRE. + +Airlie Church +Arbroath Abbey +---- Abbot’s House +Auchterhouse, St. Mary’s +Brechin Cathedral +---- Maison Dieu +Dundee Church +Eassie Church +Invergowrie Church +Lundie, St. Lawrence +Mains Church +Maryton Church +Nevay Church +Pert Church +Restennet Priory +St. Vigean’s Church + + +HADDINGTONSHIRE. + +Dunbar, Redfriars’ +Douglass, St. Mary’s +Garvald Church +Gladsmuir Church +Gullane, St. Andrew’s +Haddington, St. Martin’s +---- St. Mary’s +Herdmanston, Font +Keith, St. Maelrubba’s +Luffness, Redfriars’ +Morham Church +Ormiston, St. Giles’ +Pencaitland Church +Prestonkirk, St. Baldred’s +Prestonpans Church +Seton Collegiate Church +Stenton Parish Church +Tynninghame Church +Whitekirk Church +Yester Parish Church +---- St. Bothan’s + + +INVERNESS-SHIRE. + +Barra, St. Michael’s, Borve +---- Kilbar +Beauly Priory +Benbecula, Nuntown +---- St. Columba’s, Balivanich +Harris, Sound of Pabba +---- Toehead +Raasay, St. Moluac’s +Rowdil, St. Clement’s Priory +Skye, Kilmuir +Skye, St, Maelrubba’s Font +---- Mugstot +---- Skeabost +---- Trumpan +Uist, North, Carinish +---- South, Howmore + + +KINCARDINESHIRE. + +Arbuthnott Collegiate Church +Cowie Church +Feteresso, St. Cavan’s +Fordoun, St. Palladius’ +Nigg, St. Fiacre’s + + +KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. + +Buittle, St. Colmonel’s +Dalry, St. John’s +Dundrennan Abbey +Lincluden College +New Abbey or Sweetheart Abbey +Old Girthon Church +Terregles Church +Tungland Abbey + + +LANARKSHIRE. + +Biggar Church +Bothwell, St. Bride’s +Blantyre Priory +Carnwath Collegiate Church +Covington, St. Michael’s +Douglas, St. Bride’s +Glasgow, St. Mungo’s Cathedral +---- Tron Spire +Lamington Church +Lanark, St. Kentigern’s +Rutherglen, St. Mary’s +Walston Church + + +LINLITHGOWSHIRE. + +Abercorn Church +Auldcathie Church +Bathgate Church +Dalmeny Church +Kinneil Church +Kirkliston Church +Linlithgow, St. Michael’s +Strathbroc, St. Nicholas’ +Queensferry, South, Carmelites’ Church +Torphichen Church +Uphall, St. Nicholas’ + + +MID-LOTHIAN. + +Borthwick, St. Mungo’s +Calder, East, St. Cuthbert’s +Cockpen Church +Corstorphine, St. John Baptist +Crichton, St. Mary’s +Dalkeith, St. Nicholas’ +Duddingston Church +Edinburgh Castle, St. Margaret’s Chapel +---- St. Anthony’s Chapel +Edinburgh, St. Cuthbert’s Pulpit +---- St. Giles’ Collegiate Church +---- Trinity College Church +Gogar, Font +Holyrood Abbey +Lasswade Church +Mid-Calder Church +Newbattle Abbey +Ratho, St. Mary’s +Restalrig, St. Triduan’s +Rosslyn, St. Matthew’s Collegiate Church +Stow Church +Temple Church + + +ORKNEY. + +Birsay, Brough of +Deerness, Brough of +Egilsey Church +Enhallow Church +Head of Holland Chapel +Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay +Linton Chapel, Shapinsay +Orphir Church +St. Ola, Kirkwall +St. Magnus, Kirkwall +St. Tredwell’s Chapel +Swendro Church, Rousay +Westray Chapel +Wyre Church + + +PEEBLESSHIRE. + +Lyne Church +Newlands Church +Peebles, Holy Cross +Peebles, St. Andrew’s +Stobo Church + + +PERTHSHIRE. + +Aberdalgie, Monument +Abernethy Round Tower +Aberuthven, St. Cathan’s +Alyth, St. Moloc’s +Auchterarder Church +Blair Church +Cambusmichael Church +Coupar Abbey +Culross Abbey +---- Parish Church +Dron Church +Dunblane Cathedral +Dunkeld Cathedral +Dunning, St. Serf’s +Ecclesiamagirdle Church +Forgandenny Church +Forteviot Church +Foulis Easter, St. Marnan’s +Grandtully, St. Mary’s +Inchaffray Abbey +Innerpeffray Collegiate Church +Kinfauns Church +Kinkell, St. Bean’s +Kinnoull Church +Meigle Church +Methven Collegiate Church +Moncrieff Chapel +Muckersey Font +Muthill Church +Perth, St. John Baptist +Stobhall Church +Tullibardine Collegiate Church +Wast-town Church +Weem Church + + +RENFREWSHIRE. + +Castle Semple Collegiate Church +Houston Church +Kilmalcolm Church +Paisley Abbey +Renfrew Church +St. Fillan’s Church + + +ROSS-SHIRE. + +Dun Othail, Lewis +Eorrapidh, Lewis +Fearn Abbey +Flannain Isles, or Seven Hunters +Fortrose Cathedral +Holy Cross, South Galston, Lewis +St. Aula, Gress, Lewis +St. Columba’s, Ey, Lewis +---- Isle, Lewis +St. John Baptist, South Bragair, Lewis +St. Ronan, North Rona +Tain, St. Duthus’ +Teampull, Beannachadh +---- Pheadair, Lewis +---- Sula Sgeir +Tigh Beannachadh, Lewis + + +ROXBURGHSHIRE. + +Jedburgh Abbey +Kelso Abbey +Linton Church +Melrose Abbey +St. Boswell’s Church +Smailholm Church + + +SELKIRKSHIRE. + +Selkirk Church + + +SHETLAND. + +Culbinsbrough, Bressay +Kirkaby, Westing, Unst +Meal, Colvidale, Unst +Ness Kirk, North Yell +Noss Chapel, Bressay +St. John’s Kirk, Norwick, Unst +Uya, Church at + + +STIRLINGSHIRE. + +Airth Church +Cambuskenneth Abbey +Inchmahome Priory +Stirling Parish Church + + +SUTHERLANDSHIRE. + +Durness, Church of + + +WIGTONSHIRE. + +Cruggleton Church +Glenluce Abbey +Kirkmaiden Church +Leswalt Church +St. Ninian’s, the Isle +Wigton, St. Machutus’ +Whithorn Priory + + + + +GENERAL INDEX + +TO THE WHOLE WORK. + + +Abailard, II. 1. + +Abb’s, St., Chapel, I. 437. + +Abbey St. Bathans, description, III. 410. + +Abdie, II. 218. + +---- St. Magridin’s Church, II. 293. + +Abercorn Church, I. 318, description, 346. + +Aberdalgie, Monument at, II. 551. + +Aberdeen Cathedral, I. 47, III. 6, 40, 117, 408; description, 75. + +---- Carmelites, III. 469. + +---- King’s College, II. 285, 445, 504, III. 234. + +---- Greyfriars’ Church, description, III. 358. + +---- St. Nicholas, description, I. 426. + +Aberdour, Aberdeenshire, III., description, 535. + +Aberdour Church, Fifeshire, III. 40, 318. + +Abernethy Tower, I. 11, 15, 26, description, 175; II. 86, 209. + +Aberuthven Church, description, III. 485. + +Adamnan, I. 11. + +---- St., Church of, Aberdeenshire, description, III. 387. + +Aidan, St., I. 11. + +Airlie Church, description, III. 452. + +Airth Church, description, I. 465. + +---- Castle, I. 465, 469. + +Aldcamus Church, I. 325. + +Alexander I., I. 29. + +---- II. and III., I. 50. + +Allen, J. Romilly, I. 2, 306. + +Alloway Kirk, description, III. 393. + +Alnwick, I. 47. + +Altyre Church, II. 290. + +Alyth Church, description, III. 487. + +Amiens Cathedral, II. 65. + +Anchorites, I. 1. + +Ancient details revived, III. 52. + +Anderson, Dr. Joseph, I. 2, 3, 66; II. 209, 210; III. 459. + +Anderson, R. Rowand, architect, II. 92; III. 459. + +Anstruther, Easter and Wester, description, III. 536-547. + +Anthony, St., Chapel, description, III. 145. + +Antiquaries of Scotland, I. 101; III. 623. + +---- Society of, III. 381. + +Apses and square east ends, II. 4; III. 2, 3. + +Arbroath Abbey, I. 38, 47, 48, 49; II. 2, 3, + 4, 218, 332, description, 30; III. 456, 459. + +---- Abbot’s House, II. 49. + +---- Regality Court House, II. 48. + +Arbuthnott Church, II. 92; description, III. 235. + +Arched Style of Building, I. 32. + +Architecture, new development of, II. 1. + +---- Scottish, of Fourteenth to Sixteenth centuries, I. 50. + +---- division of, I. 53. + +---- ceases to be like English, I. 52. + +---- connection with French, I. 52. + +---- gap in, II. 331. + +Ardchattan Priory, II. 146, 245; description, III. 389. + +Ardoilean, I. 8. + +Armstrong, R. Bruce, I. 465; III. 431. + +Aroise Abbey, Artois, France, II. 230. + +Auchindoir Church, description, II. 281; III. 406. + +Auchterarder Church, description, III. 488. + +Auchterhouse, St. Mary’s, description, III. 541. + +Augustine, St., I. 12. + +Aula, St., Gress, Lewis, I. 83. + +Auldcathie Church, description, III. 474. + +Aytoun Church, description, III. 543. + + +Baberton House, III. 251. + +Bairhum, Andrew, painter, I. 417. + +Ballingry Church, description, III. 543. + +Balmerino Abbey, II. 345, description, 505. + +Bangor Monastery, I. 5. + +Barrel vaults, II. 333; III. 2. + +Bassendean Church, description, III. 412. + +Bathgate Church, description, I. 474. + +Batten, E. Chisholm, II. 147, 245, 395, 399, 402, 543. + +Bays, design of, II. 4. + +Beauly Priory, I. 289, 416, 417; II. 2, 146, 544, description, 245. + +Bede, I. 12. + +Beehive cells, I. 7, 24, 68. + +Benedict Biscop, I. 12. + +Beverley Minster, I. 54; II. 362. + +Biggar Collegiate Church, description, III. 343. + +Billings, R. W., II. 122, 389; III. 23, 43, 247. + +Birnie, St. Brandon’s, description, I. 218; II. 121. + +Birsay, Brough of, I. 135. + +Black’s _Brechin_, II. 204, 215. + +Blackadder’s Aisle, Glasgow, II. 165, 170; III. 4, 628. + +Blair Church, Blair-Atholl, description, III. 544. + +Blane’s, St., Bute, description, I. 292. + +Blantyre Priory, description, III. 470. + +Boniface, St., I. 14. + +Border monasteries destroyed, II. 331. + +Borthwick Church, III. 173, description, 214. + +---- Castle, III. 173, 305. + +Boswell’s, St., description, I. 377. + +Bothwell Church (St. Bride’s), II. 333, description, 531; III. 173, 174. + +---- Castle, III. 470. + +Boyndie, St. Brandan’s, description, III. 545. + +Brandon’s, St., Birnie, I. 218. + +Brechin Cathedral, I. 49, 57; II. 3, 86, 223, description, 203. + +---- Tower, I. 26, 48; II. 209. + +---- Maison Dieu, I. 48; description, II. 215. + +Brendan, St., I. 67. + +Brook, J. S., III. 203. + +Brown, J. Harvey, III. 372. + +---- T. Craig, III. 531. + +Brude, King, I. 10. + +Buchanan, George, III. 450, 597. + +Buckler, Messrs., architects, III. 61. + +Buittle Church, Kirkcudbrightshire, II. 334, description, 300. + +Bunkle Church, description, I. 314. + +Burgundy, I. 35. + +Burntisland Church, description, II. 269. + +Bute, Marquis of, II. xiii, 6, 19, 23, 482, + +---- St Blane’s, I. 292. + +Buttresses introduced, I. 34. + + +Caithness Cathedral, I. 47; II. 3. + +Cambuskenneth Abbey, I. 30; II. 3, 515, description, 225. + +---- Abbot of, III. 29. + +Cambusmichael Church, III. description, 489. + +Campbell, Rev. Dr., Balmerino, II. 505. + +_Candida Casa_, I. 3, 5; II. 479. + +Canmore, Malcolm, I. 15, 29. + +Canonby Priory, description, III. 430. + +Canterbury Cathedral, I. 12, 30. + +Cara, Gigha, Kintyre, I. 82. + +Cardonnell’s Views, I. 446. + +Carinish, North Uist, I. 81. + +Carmaig, St., Eilean Mor, I. 89. + +---- Knapdale, I. 84. + +Carnock Church, description, III. 436. + +Carnwath Collegiate Church, description, III. 349. + +Carving, third pointed, III. 6. + +Cashels, Irish, I. 7. + +Castle Semple Church, description, III. 351. + +Castletown Church, I. 378. + +Catan’s, St., Kintyre, I. 95. + +Cathedrals, Scottish, I. 49. + +---- chiefly thirteenth century, II. 2. + +Caves, I. 5. + +Cellach, I. 15. + +Celtic art, I. 1. + +---- carving, I. 426; III. 52, 370, 383. + +---- Church, I. 65. + +---- churches standing alone, I. 78. + +---- ---- built with chancel and nave, I. 93. + +---- ---- with pointed or late features, I. 95. + +---- structures in Scotland, I. 65. + +Chalmers, P. Macgregor, architect, II. 196, 199, 378, + 379, 380, 381, 382, 393, 483; III. 9, 627. + +Chambers, Dr. Wm., II. 443, 455. + +Chancel architecturally distinguished, I. 79. + +---- added to nave, I. 79. + +Chapel on “The Isle,” Wigtonshire, description, II. 297. + +Chirnside Church, description, I. 322, 314. + +Choir and nave, relative length of, II. 5. + +Churches, dry-built, I. 80. + +---- oblong, modified, I. 82. + +---- with nave or chancel added, I. 88. + +---- on islands, I. 105. + +---- in Orkney, I. 100. + +---- in Shetland, I. 101, 145. + +Clackmannan Church, II. 231. + +Claverhouse’s Grave, Blair-Atholl, III. 544. + +Clement’s, St., Rowdil, description, III. 363. + +Clonmacnoise, I. 10. + +Cluny Loch, III. 40. + +Coalisport Loch, I. 10. + +Cockburnspath Church, I. 323; description, III. 413. + +Cockpen Church, II. 303. + +Coldingham Priory, I. 30, 48, 318, 379, 387, description, + 437; II. 345; III. 543. + +Coldstream Priory, III. 413. + +Coles, Fred. R., III. 148, 469, 533. + +Collegiate Churches, I. 51, 60; II. 334; III. 2, 7. + +Collie, J., II. 163, 186. + +Columba, St., I. 5, 10, 67, 69. + +Columba Church, St., Balivanich, I. 88. + +---- Ey, Lewis, I. 91. + +---- Kiels, Kintyre, I. 92. + +---- Isle, Lewis, I. 97. + +Columban Church, I. 11, 12, 13. + +---- Churches, I. 25. + +Comgall, St., I. 5. + +Cooper, Rev. J., III. 356. + +Cordiner, II. 152, 157. + +Cormac’s Chapel, I. 28. + +Corstorphine Church, I. 371; III. 1, 3, 173, description, 250. + +Coupar Abbey, II. 345; III. 445, 499, description, 491. + +Covington Church, description, III. 472. + +Cowie Church, Kincardineshire, II. 273. + +Craigmillar Castle, III. 4. + +Crail Church, III. 452, description, 263. + +Crailing, Upper Church, I. 378. + +Cramond, III. 40. + +Creich Church, II. 554. + +Crichton Church, III. 173, 218, description, 243. + +Crosraguel Abbey, I. 57, 58; II. 76, 332, 342, 478, + description, 402; III. 138, 338, 394, 397. + +Cross, St., Church, I. 36. + +Cross Church, Peebles, description, III. 482. + +Crosses, I. 9, 10, 17, 20. + +Cruggleton Church, description, I. 212. + +Culbinsbrough Church, Bressay, I. 157. + +Culdees, I. 14, 15, 30. + +Cullen Church, description, III. 398, 406. + +Culross Abbey, I. 48; II. 2, 3, description, 231. + +---- Palace, III. 572. + +---- Old Parish Church, II. 243. + +Cupar-Fife, St. Michael’s, description, III. 547. + +Cuthbert, St., I. 5, 12. + + +Dalgety, St. Bridget’s, III. 549. + +Dalkeith Church, III. 174, description, 205. + +Dalmeny Church, I. 38, 309, 378, description, 298. + +---- Early Sculpture at, I. 302. + +Dalriada, I. 10. + +Dalry, Kirkcudbrightshire, description, III. 551. + +David I., I. 29, 30, 38. + +Decorated style, I. 52, 53; II. 331. + +---- examples rare in Scotland, II. 332. + +---- Churches in England, III. 1. + +Deer Abbey, II. 345, description, 274. + +---- Church, description, II. 278. + +Deerness, Brough of, I. 68, 101. + +Denis, St., I. 8. + +Deskford Church, description, III. 406. + +Details, late, III. 5. + +Devenish, Round Tower, I. 27. + +Dioceses, Scottish, I. 29. + +Donoughmore, County Meath, II. 210. + +Doorways, I. 55. + +Dore Abbey, Hertfordshire, II. 186, 381; III. 172. + +Dornoch Cathedral, II. 3. + +Douglas Church, description, II. 520. + +Drainie Church, description, III. 553. + +Dron Church, description, III. 497. + +Drummond, James, R.S.A., I. 2, 323, 426; III. 49, 91. + +Dryburgh Abbey, I. 38, 47, 48, 49, 57, description, 448; + tailpiece, 478; II. 4, 267, 332, 345, 346, 349, 365. + +Dryden, Sir Henry, I. 3, 68, 101, 172, 273, 282, 288, 290, 292. + +Duddingston Church, I. 39, 382, description, 333. + +Dumbarton Parish and Collegiate Churches, description, III. 423. + +Dunbar, Redfriars, description, III. 462. + +Dunblane Cathedral, I. 38, 48, 49, 50; II. 2, + 3, 4, 116, description, 86; III. 121, 123, 331. + +---- Celtic Cross at, II. 102. + +Dundee Church, II. 218, 235; III. 116, description, 123. + +Dundrennan Abbey, I. 30, 47, 48, 387, description, 388; II. 2, 3, 335, 342. + +Dunfermline Abbey, I. 38, 309, 439, + description, 230; II. 3, 92, 147, 486; III. 105. + +Dunglass Church, III. 1, 3, 167, 173, description, 179. + +Dunkeld Cathedral, I. 47, 49, 62; II. 3; + III. 12, 21, 23, 121, 123, 318, 418, 487, description, 23. + +Dunning, St. Serf’s, description, I. 204; III. 500. + +Dun Othail, Lewis, I. 81. + +Duns Church, description, I. 381. + +Dunstaffnage Castle, I. 48. + +---- Chapel, description, II. 299. + +Durham Cathedral, I. 37; II. 92, 345, 471. + +Durness Church, description, III. 557. + +Dysart Church, II. 235; III. 308, 318, description, 437. + + +Earl’s Hall, III. 527. + +Eassie Church, description, III. 560. + +East Calder Church, description, III. 559. + +Ecclesiamagirdle, description, III. 499. + +Edinburgh Castle Chapel, I. 29, description, 224. + +Edinburgh, St. Giles’, description, II. 419. + +Edrom Church, I. 314, 316; II. 162. + +Edward I., I. 51. + +Egilsay, Orkney, Church on, I. 26, 27; II. 209. + +---- Choir, I. 100. + +Eilean, Naomh, I. 66. + +---- Mor, I. 77, 89. + +---- Munde, I. 83. + +Elgin Cathedral, I. 47, 48, 49, 387; + II. 2, 3, 4, 146, 147, 152, 154, 196, 372, 331, description, 121. + +---- Greyfriars’ Church description, III. 356. + +---- St. Giles’, II. 157. + +Ellon Monument, III. 85. + +Ely, II. 92. + +England, Church in, I. 12. + +English Cathedrals, I. 40, 43. + +---- influence, III. 5, 6. + +Enhallow, Orkney, I. 116. + +Eorrapidh, Lewis, I. 99. + +Errol, Earl of, III. 493. + +Eyre, Archbishop, II. 195. + + +Fail Abbey, II. 76. + +Falaise, Normandy, II. 30. + +Farne Island, I. 12. + +Faslane Church, II. 557. + +Fearn Abbey, Ross-shire, II. 542. + +Ferguson, Mr. J., Duns, I. 382; III. 410, 416, 417. + +Ferguson, Rev. John, III. 112. + +Fernie, Cupar-Fife, III. 547. + +Ferrerius, John, I. 416; II. 246. + +Fetteresso Church, III. 562. + +Fillans, St., Church, III. 527. + +Finnian, St., School of, I. 5. + +First pointed style, I. 39; II. 1, 2. + +---- Introduced from England, II. 3. + +---- in Scotland, I. 46. + +---- Details of, II. 4. + +Flamboyant style, I. 2, 57, 58. + +---- tracery, III. 6. + +Flannain Isles, I. 77. + +Font at Birnie, St. Brandon’s, I. 219. + +---- Forgandenny, III. 502. + +---- Fortrose, II. 401. + +---- Foulis Easter, III. 196. + +---- Gogar, III. 306. + +---- Herdmanston, I. 384. + +---- Inverkeithing, II. 549. + +---- Isle, the, II. 298. + +---- Kinkell, III. 385. + +---- Meigle, III. 517. + +---- Muckersey, III. 502. + +---- Newbottle, II. 258. + +---- Restennet, I. 185. + +---- Selkirk, III. 529. + +---- Stenton, III. 611. + +---- Strathbroc, I. 345. + +---- Whithorn, II. 485. + +Fordel Church, description, III. 565. + +Fordoun, St. Palladius, description, III. 468. + +Forgandenny Church, description, III. 500. + +Fortrose Cathedral, I. 57; II. 331, description, 394. + +Fortune, Mr. G., architect, III. 410. + +Foulis, Easter Church, description, III. 189. + +France, architecture in, I. 40, 42, 43. + +Franciscans, Haddington, II. 492. + +French influence, III. 5, 6. + +Fullar, John, III. 111. + + +Galloway, Cathedral of, II. 3. + +---- A church in, II. 378. + +---- William, architect, I. 178, 185, 213, 297, 383; + II. 76, 80, 81, 297, 482, 486; III. 356, 372, 377, 551, 625. + +Galloway, Alex., III. 358, 385, 386. + +Gallowhead, I. 80. + +Gamrie Church, description, III. 567. + +Garvald Church, description, III. 567. + +Germany, I. 35. + +Gibbs, Wm., architect, I. 426. + +Giles’, St., Edinburgh, I. 49, 51, 57, + 60, 62; II. 331, 457, 460, 466, 504, + description, 419; III. 130, 295, 324. + +Giric, King, I. 15. + +Gladsmuir Church, description, III. 569. + +Glasgow, Bishop of, I. 29. + +---- Tron Steeple, description, III. 571. + +---- Cathedral, I. 47, 48, 49, 50, 57, 58; + II. 2, 3, 4, 125, 186, 324, 331, 379, 382, + 520, description, 160; III. 4, 6, 21, 159, 172, 174, 175, 179. + +---- High Kirk, II. 378. + +---- College, III. 206. + +---- Tolbooth, III. 295. + +Glenluce Abbey, II. 379, description, III. 132. + +Gloucester Cathedral, I. 401. + +Gogar Church Font, description, II. 306. + +Gothic architecture in Scotland, I. 2. + +Grandtully Church, description, III. 571. + +Greenlaw Church, description, III. 574. + +Grose, Capt., I. 444, 446; II. 76, 80, 171, + 204, 391, 393; III. 223, 343, 393, 482, 485. + +Gullane, St. Andrews, I. 339. + + +Haddington, St. Martin’s, description, I. 362. + +---- Priory, III. 264. + +---- Nunnery, II. 492. + +---- St. Mary’s Parish Church, II. 445 description, 491; III. 1, 234. + +Haddow’s Hole Church (St. Giles’), II. 454. + +Hagnaston Church, Derbyshire, I. 306. + +Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay, I. 105. + +Halkerston, John, III. 121. + +Hassendean, I. 378. + +Hay, Rev. R. A., III. 151. + +Head of Holland, Church at, I. 105. + +Helen’s, St., Church, I. 314, 366, description, 323. + +Henry VII.’s Chapel, III. 6, 175. + +Heraldic Panel, Prestonpans Church, description, III. 602. + +Herdmanston Font, description, I. 384. + +Heriot Parish, III. 218. + +Hermiston House, III. 251. + +Hermits’ cells, I. 73. + +Hexham, I. 12; II. 6, 345. + +Holy Cross Church, Lewis, I. 83. + +Holyrood Abbey, I. 30, 38, 47, 48, 371, 416; + II. 2, 3, 4, 330, 332, description, 53; + III. 251, 269, 363, 373. + +Honeyman, John, architect, II. 160, 161, 165, 168, 169, 171, 198. + +Horndene, III. 218. + +Houston Church, description, III. 527. + +Howmore, South Uist, I. 70. + +Hunter, Blair, F. C., II. 402. + +Hutton Collection, I. 180; III. 180, 188, 205, 496. + + +Iffley Church, I. 317. + +Inchaffray Abbey, III. 486, 489, description, 502. + +Inchcolm Abbey, I. 29, 48; II. 2, 92, description, 307; III. 29. + +---- Oratory, I. 24; II. 310. + +Inchkenneth, Ulva, I. 98, 165. + +---- Mull, I. 165. + +Inchmahome, I. 48; II. 3, description, 112. + +Innerpeffray Collegiate Church, description, III. 506. + +Insch Church, description, III. 575. + +Inverboyndie Church, III. 545. + +Invergowrie Church, description, III. 454. + +Inverkeithing Church, II. 507; description, 547. + +Inverness Fort, I. 417. + +Iona, I. 10, 11, 14. + +---- Cathedral, I. 49, 62; III. 29, 130, 363, 370, 381, 389, description, 47. + +---- Carved Slabs, I. 23. + +---- St. Oran’s Chapel, I. 220. + +---- the Nunnery, description, I. 421. + +Irish influence, I. 2, 9. + +Irish style of building, I. 8, 9. + +---- Round Towers, I. 26, 27, 28. + +Islands, Churches on, I. 8. + +---- Western, Architecture of, I. 65, 80. + +Isle, the, Chapel on, description, II. 297. + + +Jarrow, I. 12, 13. + +Jedburgh Abbey, I. 38, 49, 309, 387, + description, 398; II. 2, 75, 162, 332, 345. + +Jervise, Andrew, II. 282, 283; III. 399, 404, 469. + +John Baptist, Church of, Lewis, I. 95. + +John, St., Kirk of, Unst, I. 148. + + +Keith Church, description, III. 465. + +Kelso Abbey, I. 38, 39, 387, description, 347; II. 2, 75, 345, 520. + +Kemback Church, description, III. 576. + +Kenmore Aisle, III. 551. + +Kentigern, St., I. 11. + +Kerr, Henry F., architect, II. 492. + +Kevin, St., cell of, I. 9. + +Kiels, Knapdale, I. 84. + +Kilallan (_see_ St. Fillans). + +Kilbar, Barra, I. 71, 72. + +Kilbride, Knapdale, I. 98. + +Kilchenich, Tiree, I. 88. + +Kilchenzie, Kintyre, I. 93. + +Kilchieran, Islay, I. 96. + +Kilchoman Cross, I. 22. + +Kilchouslan, Kintyre, I. 92. + +Kilconquhar Church, description, III. 441. + +Kildalton, Islay, I. 96. + +Kilfillan (_see_ St. Fillans). + +Killean, Kintyre, I. 98. + +Kilmahew, Kirkton of, description, III. 426. + +Kilmalcolm Church, description, III. 527, 529. + +Kilmaurs, Monument at, III. 577. + +Kilmory, Knapdale, I. 85. + +Kilmuir, Skye, I. 84. + +Kilmun Collegiate Church, description, III. 390. + +Kilnaughton, Islay, I. 96. + +Kilneave, Islay, I. 96. + +Kilrenny Church, description, III. 442. + +Kilrimont, I. 11. + +Kilwinning Abbey, II. 2, 3, 4, 332, description, 73; III. 425. + +Kineddar Church, II. 121; III. 553. + +Kinfauns Church, description, III. 513. + +King’s College, Aberdeen, I. 62; II. 285, 445, 504; description, III. 287. + +---- Cambridge, II. 393. + +Kinkell Church, Aberdeenshire, description, III. 383, 386, 406. + +---- St. Bean’s, description, III. 579. + +Kinloss Abbey, I. 30, 289, description, 416; II. 121, 232, 246, 345, 402. + +---- Abbot’s House, II. 417, 421. + +Kinneil Church, description, III. 578. + +Kinnoul Church, description, III. 580. + +Kinross, J., architect, II. 6, 23; III. 300. + +Kintore, Sacrament House, III. 386. + +Kintyre, I. 3, 10, 82. + +Kirkaby, Westray, Shetland, I. 147. + +Kirkapoll, Tiree, I. 87. + +Kirkbryde Church, description, III. 431. + +Kirkham Priory, I. 317. + +Kirkheugh, St. Mary’s, II. 29. + +Kirkliston Church, description, I. 366. + +Kirkmadrine, Crosses at, I. 4. + +Kirkmaiden, description, I. 383. + +Kirkoswald Church, description, III. 582. + +Kirkton of Kilmahew, description, III. 426. + +Kirkwall, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, + I. 38, 48, 50, 417, description, 259; II. 3, 4. + +---- St. Ola, I. 109. + + +Ladykirk, III. 3, 5, 173, 208, 310, 349, 446, description, 218. + +Laggan, Mull, I. 98. + +Laing, Alexander, II. 218, 219, 220. + +---- Dr. David, II. 429; III. 7, 103, 188, 251, 253, 258, 475. + +Lamington Church, description, I. 376; II. 37. + +Lanark Church, I. 50; description, II. 266. + +Lancet windows, II. 4. + +Lasswade Church, description, I. 471; III. 214. + +Late or third pointed style, I. 58. + +---- in Scotland, I. 60; III. 1, 2. + +Lauder Church, description, III. 582. + +Lees, Very Rev. Dr. J. Cameron, III. 7, 23, 25. + +Leeswalt Church, description, III. 585. + +Legerwood Church, I. 314, 382, description, 320. + +Leonard’s, St., St. Andrews, description, III. 448. + +Lerida Cathedral, Spain, II. 37. + +Leuchars Church, I. 38, 378, description, 309. + +Lewis, Butt of, I. 75. + +Lincluden College, I. 57; II. 120, + 333, 379, 381, 535, description, 383; III. 1, 6, 174. + +Lincoln Cathedral, I. 45, 47; II. 3, 121. + +Lindisfarne, I. 11; II. 354. + +Lindores Abbey, II. 4, 294, description, 217; III. 123. + +Linlithgow Church, I. 57; II. 445, 504, description, + 455; III. 3, 82, 116, 117, 121, 174, + 208, 315, 324, 456. + +---- Palace, III. 121. + +Linton Church, Roxburghshire, I. 318, description, 378. + +Linton Chapel, Shapinsay, I. 122. + +Lismore Cathedral, description, II. 263. + +Loch Tay Monastery, III. 29. + +Logierait Cross, I. 18. + +Lombardy, I. 35. + +Lonmay Church, description, III. 587. + +Loudoun Church, description, III. 587. + +Luffness Monastery, description, II. 288. + +Lundie, St. Lawrence, description, I. 382. + +Lybster, Caithness, I. 162. + +Lyne Church, description, III. 589. + + +Macalpine, Kenneth, I. 14. + +Macdonald, W. Rae, III. 45, 198, 261, 525. + +Maces of Universities, III. 203. + +Mackenzie, A. M., architect, III. 236, 359. + +Mackison, William, architect, II. 227. + +M‘Lean’s Cross, Iona, I. 21. + +Macpherson, Dr. Norman, III. 289, 371. + +Macpherson, Archibald, architect, III. 453. + +Madoe’s Cross, I. 17. + +Maelrubba, St., Skye, Font, description, III. 381. + +Magnus’, St., Cathedral, Kirkwall (_see_ Kirkwall). + +Mains Church, description, III. 455. + +Maison Dieu, Brechin, description, II. 215. + +Margaret, Queen, I. 15, 28, 29. + +Marischal College, Aberdeen, III. 359. + +Markinch Church, description, I. 193. + +Martin, III. 377. + +Martin’s, St., Haddington, description, I. 362. + +---- St., Cross, Iona, I. 21. + +Martine’s _Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ_, II. 19, 23, 24, 27, 29. + +Mary’s, St., Lybster, I. 93, 94. + +---- Ratho, description, I. 371. + +---- Rutherglen, description, I. 372. + +Maryton Church, description, III. 456. + +Mason’s contract, St. Giles’, II. 420. + +Matheson, Robert, architect, I. 262. + +Mavisbank House, II. 258. + +May, Isle of, III. 599. + +Maybole Collegiate Church, description, III. 338. + +Meal, Colvidale, Unst, I. 148. + +Medan’s, St., Cave, I. 5. + +Meigle Font, III. 517. + +Melrose Abbey, I. 30, 47, 49, 51, 52 + , 55, 58, 62, 451; II. 19, 160, 251, + 277, 331, 332, 342, 438, description, 344. + +---- Resemblance of details to York, II. 333; + III. 1, 3, 6, 167, 174, 456, 627. + +---- Old, I. 11. + +Merlioun, Walter, III. 106, 121. + +Methven Church, III. 397, description, 519. + +Michael’s, St., Barra, I. 95. + +Michael Kirk, description, III. 553. + +Mid-Calder Church, description, III. 279. + +---- Bond concerning, III. 279. + +Middle Ages, art of, I. 2. + +Middleton Church, I. 317. + +Middle pointed style, characteristics, I. 53. + +Middle pointed style in Scotland, I. 55; II. 331; III. 1. + +Miller, Rev. Alex., III. 557. + +---- A. H., III. 619. + +Mirin’s, St., Chapel, III. 3, 9; description, 23. + +Moffat, St. Cuthbert’s, description, III. 433. + +Moluac, St., Raasay, I. 98. + +---- Teampull, Lewis, I. 99. + +---- Mortlach, description, III. 408. + +---- Alyth, description, II. 487. + +Monans, St., III. 10, 445. + +Monasteries established, I. 31. + +---- in Scotland, proportions, I. 49. + +Moncrieff Chapel, description, III. 521. + +Monkton Church, description, II. 285. + +Monkwearmouth, I. 12, 13. + +Monuments-- + Abbey St. Bathans, III. 411. + Abdie, II. 296. + Abercorn Church, I. 346. + Aberdalgie, II. 551. + Aberdeen, St. Machar’s, III. 83, 84, 85, 86, 88. + ---- St. Nicholas’, I. 431. + Aberdour, III. 536. + Airth, I. 469. + Ardchattan, III. 390. + Balmerino, II. 517. + Bathgate, I. 475. + Beauly, II. 249. + Borthwick Church, III. 216. + Bothwell, II. 536. + Cambuskenneth, II. 231. + Carnwath Church, III. 349. + Castle Semple Church, III. 354. + Coldingham, I. 446. + Corstorphine Church, III. 261. + Coupar Abbey, III. 496. + Creich, II. 556. + Crichton Church, III. 247. + Cullen Church, III. 401. + Culross Parish Church, II. 245. + Cupar, III. 549. + Dalgety, III. 549. + Dalkeith, III. 209. + Deer Church, II. 278. + Douglas, II. 520. + Dunblane, II. 112. + Dundrennan Abbey, I. 395, 398. + Dunfermline Abbey, I. 258. + Dunkeld Cathedral, III. 32, 43, 45. + Durness Church, III. 559. + Edinburgh, St. Giles’, II. 449. + Elgin Cathedral, II. 142. + Ellon, III. 85. + Errol, Earl of, III. 493. + Fearn, II. 546. + Fortrose Cathedral, II. 399. + Glasgow Cathedral, II. 203. + Glencairn, Kilmaurs, III. 577. + Haddington, II. 498. + Holyrood, II. 54. + Houston Church, III. 527. + Inchkenneth, I. 171. + Inchmahome, II. 119. + Iona, I. 426; III. 74. + Keith Church, III. 466. + Kennedy, Ballantrae, III. 577. + Kilmaurs, III. 577. + Kilrenny Church, III. 442. + Kinfauns, III. 513. + Kinnoul, III. 580. + Kirkwall Cathedral, I. 290. + Lasswade Church, I. 474. + Leswalt, III. 585. + Lindores, II. 225. + Maryton, III. 456. + Maybole, III. 341. + M‘Lellan, Kirkcudbright, III. 578. + Montgomerie, Largs, III. 620. + Mortlach, III. 409. + Newbottle, II. 251. + Oransay, III. 376. + Ormiston, III. 596. + Paisley Abbey, III. 25. + Renfrew Church, III. 525. + Rosslyn, III. 179. + Rothesay Abbey, III. 418. + Rowdil, III. 367. + St. Andrews, St. Leonard’s, III. 450. + ---- St. Salvator’s, III. 203. + St. Giles’, Edinburgh, II. 441; III. 597. + St. Mirren’s Chapel, III. 25. + Sanquhar Church, III. 436. + Selkirk, III. 530. + Seton Church, III. 228, 234, 620. + Stirling Church, III. 324, 328. + Weem, III. 620. + Yester Church, III. 312. + +Monymusk, I. 30; description, 215. + +Morham Church, description, III. 591. + +Morris, James A., II. 405. + +Mortlach, III. 75, 238; description, 408. + +Muckersey Font, III. 502. + +Mugstot, Skye, I. 69. + +Muir, T. S., I. 2, 26, 65, 195, 214, 316, + 323; II. 215, 247, 283, 299, 395, 396, + 449, 479; III. 247, 263, 368, 370, + 381, 418, 455, 470, 487, 533. + +Murray, Regent, Monument, III. 597. + +Muthill Church, description, I. 196. + + +Nattes, J. Claude, I. 196. + +Neal’s _Ecclesiological Notes_, II. 538, 540. + +Ness, North Yell, I. 151. + +Netherlands, I. 2; III. 264. + +Nevay Church, description, III. 560. + +New Abbey, I. 50; II. 332, description, 334. + +Newbattle Abbey, I. 30; II. 75, 332, 345, 346, description, 251. + +Newlands Church, description, III. 479. + +Newtown, Benbecula, I. 83. + +Nicholas’, St., Aberdeen, I. 39; description, 426. + +Nicholas’, St., Strathbroc, description, I. 342. + +Niddisdale, II. 378. + +Nigg Church, description, III. 592. + +Ninian, St., I. 3. + +---- Sanda, I. 97. + +Norham Castle, III. 218. + +Norman architecture, I. 1, 28. + +---- in Scotland, I. 191. + +Norman immigrants, I. 30. + +---- influence, I. 79, 84. + +---- piers, II. 4. + +---- style, I. 35. + +---- ---- in Scotland, I. 38, 314. + +Norsemen, I. 14. + +North Berwick, Convent, III. 441. + +Northumbria, Church in, I. 11, 12. + +Noss, Kirk of Bressay, I. 146. + +Nunnery, Iona, description, I. 421. + + +Ola’s, St., Kirkwall, I. 109. + +Old Dailly Church, description, III. 394. + +Old Girthon Church, description, III. 469. + +Oldhamstocks Church, description, III. 594. + +Olrig Castle, Caithness, I. 99. + +Oran’s, St., Iona, I. 220. + +Oransay Cross, I. 22. + +---- Priory, description, III. 372. + +Oratories, Irish, I. 8. + +“Orders” in architecture, I. 33. + +Orkney, I. 3. + +---- Cathedral, II. 3. + +Orkney and Shetland, churches in, I. 101. + +---- characteristics, I. 159. + +---- dates, I. 162. + +---- monuments, I. 160. + +---- proportions, I. 161. + +Ormiston Church, III. 596. + +Ornament, I. 35. + +Orphir, Church, Orkney, I. 141. + +Oswald’s, St., Oxtail, I. 47. + +Oudenarde, Belgium, I. 447. + +Oxenham Church, I. 378. + +Oxford Cathedral, I. 403. + +Oxtall, St. Oswald’s, I. 47. + + +Pabba, Harris, I. 84. + +Painting in churches, I. 417; II. 123; III. 196, 217, 509, 511. + +Paisley Abbey, I. 47, 62; II. 75, + 286, 332, 378, 379, 393, + 402, 501; III. 1, 40, 43, 47, + 130, 328, 394, 397, 488, description, 7. + +Palladius, St., I. 5. + +---- Church, Fordoun, description, III. 468. + +Papa, Westray, I. 106. + +Parish churches, II. 5. + +Parochial divisions, I. 31. + +Parwick Church, Derbyshire, I. 306. + +Patrick, St., I. 5. + +Peebles, Cross Church, description, III. 482. + +---- St. Andrew’s, description, III. 485. + +Pencaitland Church, description, II. 304. + +Pennant’s _Tours_, II. 392, 394; III. 376, 377, 380, 381. + +Pennygowan, Mull, I. 98. + +Periods of architecture, I. 2. + +Perpendicular style, I. 2, 57, 58; III. 350, 450. + +Pert Church, description, III. 458. + +Perth, Blackfriars, III. 46, 104, 105. + +---- St. John the Baptist’s, description, III. 105. + +---- Carmelites, III. 104, 105. + +---- Carthusians, III. 104, 123. + +---- Greyfriars, III. 104. + +Peterhead, St. Peter’s, I. 371. + +Petrie, Dr., I. 3, 26. + +Pictish Church, III. 29. + +Piers, I. 55. + +---- first-pointed, II. 4. + +Pillar stones, I. 9. + +Pinches, Frederick, II. 378. + +Pinkie House, III. 572. + +Pittenweem Priory, III. 547; description, 599. + +Pluscardine Priory, I. 58; II. 2, 3, 4, 153, 349, description, 146. + +Pointed arch, I. 79. + +---- in Scotland, II. 2. + +---- style, I. 40; II. 2, 3. + +Polwarth Church, III. 601. + +Porches, III. 6. + +Pratt, Rev. Dr., III. 568. + +Pre-Norman Churches, I. 13, 186. + +Preston Church, Berwickshire, description, III. 416. + +Prestonkirk Church, description, II. 271. + +Prestonpans Church, III. 602. + +Prestwick Church, II. 286. + +---- de Burgo, II. 286. + +---- Monachorum, II. 286. + +---- St. Nicholas’, description, II. 285. + +Provence, III. 4. + + +Queen Mary of Gueldres, III. 89, 104, 121. + +Queensferry, Carmelites’ Church, III. 3, 147, 173, 310, 542; description, 296. + + +Ramsay, John, II. 253, 255. + +Rathan Church, description, III. 604. + +Ratho, St. Mary’s, description, I. 371. + +“Raths,” Irish, I. 6. + +Rattray, St. Mary’s, II. 292. + +Redfriars’ Monastery, Luffness, II. 288. + +Reeves, Dr., I. 3. + +Reformation, architecture after, III. 534. + +Regulus’, St., St Andrews, I. 13, 28; description, 185. + +Reilig Oran, I. 28. + +Renfrew Church, description, III. 525. + +Restalrig Collegiate Church, I. 471; description, III. 475. + +Restennet Priory, I. 13, 48, description, 178; III. 454. + +Restoration of churches in fifteenth century, II. 331. + +Ribs, ornamented, III. 3. + +Richard II., I. 51, 57. + +Rievalle, II. 345. + +Rievaux Abbey, I. 47. + +Ripon, I. 12. + +Robb’s _Guide to Haddington_, II. 492, 504. + +Robert I., I. 51, 55, 57. + +Roberts, David, R.A., III. 165. + +Robertson, T. S., architect, I. 181, 382; + II. 42, 48, 49, 50, 51, 273, 517; + III. 11, 21, 189, 191, 193, 236, + 414, 456, 458, 459, 517, 544, 576, 585. + +---- Dr. Joseph, I. 185. + +Roman Church, I. 12, 14, 15, 65. + +---- Masonry, I. 32. + +Romanesque architecture, I. 1, 28, 32, 33. + +---- abandoned, II. 1. + +Romsey Abbey, I. 401; III. 172. + +Ronan’s, St., I. 73, 426. + +Rosemarkie, II. 394, 395. + +Ross, Alexander, architect, III. 363. + +Ross, Cathedral of, II. 331. + +Rossie, Priory Cross at, I. 19. + +Rosslyn Church, II. 186, 199; III. 5, 6, 208; description, 149. + +Rosyth Church, description, III. 444. + +Rothesay Castle Chapel, II. 517. + +---- St. Mary’s Abbey, description, III. 418. + +Round arch in Scotland, II. 2. + +---- churches, I. 145. + +Rowdil, St. Clement’s, description, III. 363. + +Royal Domain, France, I. 40. + +Royal Scottish Academy, III. 413. + +Rutherglen, St. Mary’s, description, I. 372. + +Ruthwell Cross, III. 623. + + +Sacrament Houses-- + Airlie Church, III. 452. + Auchindoir Church, II. 283. + Cullen Church, III. 402. + Deskford Church, III. 406. + Kinfauns Church, III. 514. + Kinkell Church, III. 384. + Kintore Church, III. 386. + Lundie, I. 383. + Pluscardine Priory, II. 156. + Temple Church, II. 489. + +Salisbury Cathedral, I. 41, 44; II. 3, 186. + +Salvator’s, St., St. Andrews, I. 471. + +Sanquhar Church, description, III. 434. + +Saxon influence, I. 1. + +Schultz, R. Weir, architect, III. 431, 435, 587. + +Scone Abbey, I. 29, 47; III. 29, 105, 106. + +Scott, Sir Walter’s, grave, I. 464. + +---- Sir G. Gilbert, II. 172. + +Sculptured stones, I. 3, 15, 16. + +---- from Forteviot, III. 623. + +Sculptures, symbolic, I. 10. + +Selkirk Church, description, III. 529. + +Semple, David, III. 9, 26. + +Seton Church, II. 501; III. 3, 173, 174, 208, description, 223. + +Seton, Chancellor, tomb of, III. 551. + +Seven Hunters, I. 77. + +Sharp’s _Cistercian Architecture_, II. 241, 242. + +Shetland, I. 3. + +---- Churches in, I. 101, 145. + +Sixteenth and seventeenth century churches, III. 534. + +Skeabost, Skye, I. 68. + +Skellig, Mhichel, I. 7. + +Skipness, St. Columba, I. 48; II. 300. + +Slabs, cross-bearing, I. 9, 15, 17. + +Slezer (Culross), II. 233, 234, 235. + +Small, J. W., architect, III. 326. + +Smailholm Church, description, I. 378. + +Smith, Dr. John, II. 378. + +Southannan Castle and Church, description, III. 607. + +Spires, with open work, I. 62. + +Spottiswoode, Archbishop, II. 19, 29, 107. + +Spynie Church, II. 121, 140; III. 553. + +Stirling Parish Church, III. 3, 116, 208; description, 315. + +---- Castle, III. 6, 121, 318. + +Stobo Church, I. 39; description, 329. + +Stenton Church, description, III. 609. + +Stobhall, III. 511. + +Stokes, Miss, I. 3; II. 209. + +Stoney, Oxfordshire, I. 317. + +Stone roofs, II. 333; III. 3, 4. + +Stow Church, III. 218; description, 611. + +Strathbroc, St. Nicholas’, description, I. 342. + +Straiton Church, description, III. 396. + +Subordination of arches, &c., I. 35. + +Suger, Abbé, I. 40. + +Sweetheart Abbey, I. 49, 67, 395; II. 300, 332, description, 334. + +Swendro, Rousay, I. 108. + +Symbols, I. 16. + +St. Abb’s Chapel, I. 437. + +St. Adamnan, I. 11; III. 387. + +---- Burntisland, II. 269. + +St. Aidan, I. 11. + +St. Alban’s Abbey, II. 73, 92. + +St. Andrews, Blackfriars’, III. 445. + +---- Cathedral and Priory, I. 15, 30, 38, 47, 49; + II. xiii, 2, 3, 4, 53, 86, 125, 256, 331, 342, + 378, 379, description, 5; III. 72, 114, 469. + +---- Franciscans, III. 199. + +---- Holy Trinity, description, III. 451. + +---- St. Leonard’s, description, II. 448. + +---- St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh, II. 29. + +---- Towers, II. 3. + +St. Andrew’s, Peebles, III. 485. + +---- Gullane, I. 339. + +St. Anthony’s Chapel, description, III. 145. + +St. Augustine, I. 12. + +St. Aula, Gress, Lewis, I. 83. + +St. Bathans, Abbey, description, III. 410. + +St. Bean’s, II. 86. + +St. Blane’s, Bute, I. 292; II. 86; III. 625. + +St. Bothan’s, Yester, description, III. 309. + +St. Brandan, Boyndie, description, III. 545. + +St. Brandon’s, Birnie, I. 218. + +St. Brendan, I. 67. + +St. Bride’s Collegiate Church, Bothwell, description, II. 531. + +St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s, Douglas, description, II. 520. + +---- Dalgety, III. 549. + +St. Carmaig, Eilean Mor, I. 90. + +---- Knapdale, I. 84. + +St. Catan’s, Kintyre, I. 95. + +St. Cavan’s, Fetteresso, description, III. 562. + +St. Clement’s, Rowdil, description, III. 363. + +St. Colmanel of Butyle, description, II. 300, 344. + +St. Columba (_see_ Columba). + +St. Comgall, I. 5. + +St. Cuthbert, I. 5, 12. + +St. Cuthbert’s, East Calder, III. 559. + +---- Edinburgh, Pulpit in, III. 562. + +---- Monkton, II. 285. + +St. Denis, I. 40. + +St. Duthus’ Church, Tain, description, II. 537. + +St. Fillan’s, III. 527. + +St. Giles’, Edinburgh, I. 49, 51, 57, 60, 62; + II. 331, 457, 460, 466, 504; + description, 419; III. 130, 295, 324. + +---- Divisions of, II. 454. + +---- mason’s contract at, II. 420. + +---- Elgin, II. 157. + +St. Helen’s Church, I. 314, 366; description, 323. + +St. John’s, Gamrie, III. 567. + +---- Dairy, description, III. 551. + +St. John Baptist, Lewis, I. 95. + +St. John, Unst, I. 148. + +---- Baptist, Perth, description, III. 104. + +St. Kentigern, I. 11. + +---- Lanark, description, II. 266. + +St. Kevin, Cell of, I. 9. + +St. Leonard’s, St. Andrews, II. 23; description, III. 448. + +St. Machar’s Cathedral, Aberdeen, III. 535; description, 75. + +St. Madoe’s Cross, I. 17. + +St. Maelrubba, Skye, III. 381. + +St. Magnus’ Cathedral, Kirkwall, I. 17; description, 259; II. 3. + +St. Magridin’s, Abdie, description, II. 293. + +St. Mahutus, Wigton, III. 533. + +St. Martin’s, Haddington, description, I. 362; II. 491. + +---- Cross, Iona, I. 21. + +St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh, St. Andrews, II. 29. + +---- Auchterhouse, III. 541. + +---- Grantully, III. 571. + +---- Haddington, II. 445, description, 491. + +---- Lybster, I. 93, 94. + +---- Ratho, description, I. 371. + +---- Rattray, II. 292. + +---- Rothesay, description, III. 418. + +---- Rutherglen, description, I. 372. + +---- Whitekirk, III. 3, 6, 173, description, 269. + +St. Medan’s Cave, I. 5. + +St. Michael’s Church, Linlithgow, description, II. 455, 445, 504. + +St. Michael’s, Barra, I. 95. + +---- Cupar-Fife, description, III. 547. + +St. Mirren’s, Paisley, description, III. 25. + +St. Moloc, Alyth, description III. 487. + +---- Mortlach, description, III. 408. + +St. Moluac, Raasay, I. 98. + +St. Moluach, Lewis, I. 99. + +St. Monan’s, description, II. 471; III. 10. + +St. Mungo’s Cathedral, Glasgow, I. 47, 48, 49, 50, 57, 58; + II. 2, 3, 4, 125, 186, 324, 331, 379, 382, 520; description, 160; + III. 4, 6, 21, 159, 172, 174, 175, 179. + +---- Borthwick, III. 214. + +---- Church, Culross, II. 232. + +St. Nicholas’, Aberdeen, I. 39; description, 426. + +---- Newcastle, II. 445. + +---- Prestwick, description, II. 285. + +---- Strathbroc, description, I. 342. + +St. Ninian, I. 3. + +---- Sanda, I. 97. + +St. Ninian’s on “The Isle,” II. 297. + +St. Ola, Kirkwall, I. 109. + +St. Oran, Iona, I. 220. + +St. Oswald, Oxstall, I. 47. + +St. Palladius’, I. 5; III. 468. + +St. Peter’s, Peterhead, I. 371. + +St. Regulus’, St. Andrews, I. 13, 28; description, 185. + +St. Ronan, I. 73. + +St. Salvator’s, St. Andrews, I. 471; III. 175; description, 199. + +St. Serf’s, Dunning, description, I. 204. + +St. Stephen’s, St. Albans, II. 73. + +St. Thenaw’s, Glasgow, III. 571. + +St. Tredwell’s, I. 106. + +St. Vigean’s, Cross of, I. 20. + +---- Church, III. 459. + + +Tain, St. Duthus’, description, II. 537. + +Talla Castle, II. 113, 119. + +Tapestry, III. 333. + +Teampull, Chalumchille, I. 89. + +---- Pheadair, Lewis, I. 83. + +---- Rona, I. 73, 74. + +---- Sula Sgeir, I. 75, 76. + +---- Na-Trianaide, I. 81. + +Temple Church, II. 486. + +Terregles Church, description, III. 615. + +Third or late pointed style, II. 332. + +Thirlstane Castle, III. 584. + +Thomas, Capt., I. 82. + +Throndhjeim Cathedral, I. 273, 280. + +Tigh Beannachadh, I. 76, 77, 78, 80. + +Tiles, encaustic, II. 262. + +Toehead, Harris, I. 83. + +Tolbooth Church, St. Giles’, Edinburgh, II. 454 + +Torphichen Church, II. 235; III. 147, 308, 318; description, 139. + +Towers, Central, II. 3. + +---- late, III. 6. + +Transition style, I. 387; II. 2. + +---- from Celtic to Norman, I. 174. + +Tredwell’s, St., Chapel, I. 106. + +Triforium omitted, II. 4. + +Trinity College Church, Edinburgh, I. 57, 60; + II. 426, 478; III. 2, 4, 6, 175; + description, 89, 596. + +Trinity, Holy, St. Andrews, description, III. 451. + +Trinity Hospital, III. 89, 100, 121. + +Tron Steeple, Glasgow, III. 571. + +Trophime, St., Arles, I. 33. + +Trumpan, Skye, I. 84. + +Tudor buildings, III. 175. + +Tullibardine Church, description, III. 330. + +Tungland Abbey, description, II. 301. + +Turgot, I. 29; II. 6. + +Turriff Church, description, III. 615. + +Tynninghame Church, I. 325, description, 326; II. 234; III. 269. + + +Uphall Church, I. 39; description, 342. + +Upsalla Cathedral, I. 273, 280. + +Upsetlington Church, III. 218. + +Urquhart Priory, I. 30; II. 121, 146. + +Uya Church, Shetland, I. 149. + + +Vaults, Barrel, I. 33; II. 333; III. 2. + +---- groined, I. 34; III. 4. + +---- late, I. 58. + +---- pointed, I. 40; II. 2. + +---- in England, III. 3. + +---- in Scottish Castles, III. 5. + +Vigean’s, St., Church, description, III. 459. + +---- Cross of, I. 20. + + +Walker, J. Russell, architect, III. 381. + +Walker, R. C., III. 127, 236. + +Walston Church, III. 617. + +Wast-town Church, description, III. 522. + +Watson, Robt., architect, II. 172, 173, 184. + +Watt, J. C., architect, III. 295. + +Wattle construction, I. 6. + +Wedale Church, III. 612. + +Weem Church, description, III. 619. + +Wenlock Abbey, I. 47; III. 7. + +Westness Chapel, I. 108. + +Westray, Orkney, I. 124. + +Whitekirk, St. Mary’s, I. 326; III. 3, 6, 173; description, 269. + +---- Tithe Barn, III. 275. + +Whithorn, crosses at, I. 4. + +---- Priory, I. 213, 306; II. 379, 542; description, 479. + +Wigton Church, description, III. 533. + +Wilfred, St., I. 12. + +William the Lion, I. 38. + +Wilson, Sir Daniel, I. 2. + +Winchester Cathedral, I. 61; II. 373; III. 3. + +Windows, late, III. 2, 3. + +---- elliptical, III. 5. + +Wooden roofs, I. 60; II. 2. + +Wyntoun House, II. 306. + +Wyntown’s _Chronykill_, II. 8, 19, 27. + +Wyre, Orkney, I. 113. + + +Yester, St. Bothan’s, description, III. 309. + +---- Monument in, III. 312. + +---- Parish Church, description, III. 622. + +York Cathedral, II. 3, 333, 363, 381. + + +FINIS. + +[Illustration] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 530. + +[2] _Ibid._ Vol. V. pp. 536, 538. + +[3] See Mr. Chalmers’ remarks in his work, p. 37. + +[4] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +III. p. 25. + +[5] See Vol. I. p. 61. + +[6] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 536. + +[7] The Bannatyne Club, 1861. + +[8] _St. Mirin_, David Semple, p. v. + +[9] _A Scots Mediæval Architect_, p. 14 (P. M‘Gregor Chalmers). + +[10] See _ante_, Vol. II. p. 378. + +[11] The “place” is illustrated and described in _The Castellated and +Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. V. p. 11. + +[12] We are indebted to Mr. T. S. Robertson for assistance in +connection with this Plan. + +[13] From a Sketch by Mr. T. S. Robertson. + +[14] Lees’ _Paisley Abbey_, p. 211. + +[15] _St. Mirin’s_, p. 23. + +[16] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 11. + +[17] Martine’s _Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ_. + +[18] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 307. + +[19] _Ibid._ p. 374. + +[20] The steps of the wheel stair, which exist, have been accidentally +omitted in the Plan. + +[21] Myln’s _Vitæ Dunkeldensis Ecclesiæ Episcoporum_, p. 13. + +[22] _Ibid._ pp. 16, 17. + +[23] _Ibid._ p. 20. + +[24] Inscription on tomb of Bishop Cardeny:--“Hic jacet Dns. +Robertus de Cardony Eppis Dunkeldenni qui ... ad incarnationem Dne. +MCCCCXX.”--_Monuments and Monumental Inscriptions in Scotland_, by Rev. +Charles Rogers, LL.D., &c., for Grampian Club, 2 vols., 1871 and 1872. + +[25] Myln’s _Vitæ Dunkeldensis Ecclesiæ Episcoporum_, p. 22. + +[26] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +III. pp. 432 and 589. + +[27] _Ibid._ Vol. II. p. 478. + +[28] The following reading of the arms on this monument is kindly +supplied by Mr. W. Rae MacDonald:--On the recessed tomb of Bishop +Cardeny in the nave there are several coats of arms. These, so far as +they are legible, are--In centre of arch a small shield, quarterly +1st and 4th, a fess chequé (of two rows of panes only) between three +open crowns, for Stewart and the Lordship of Garrioch; 2nd and 3rd, a +bend between six crosses potent fitchée, for Mar; the 3rd quarter is +defaced, but no doubt was the same as the 2nd. These arms appear on the +seal of Alexander Stewart, Earl of Mar in right of his wife, Isabell +Douglas (see Laing’s _Seals_, Vol. I., No. 796). There +is a shield at each end of the arch label; that on the east side is +defaced; the west one bears two chevronells engrailed, and has a mitre +above it, for Bishop Cardeny. On the pedestal there are four shields, +supported by angels under arched canopies, the shields being separated +by five figures of ecclesiastics with folded hands, and standing on +pedestals. These four shields bear--(1) Three pallets, for Atholl; (2) +two chevronells, for Strathearn (?); (3) defaced, but probably same as +first; (4) faint traces of two chevronells. + +[29] Inscription on tomb of the “Wolf of Badenoch”:--“Hic jacet +Alexander Senescalus, filius Roberti Regis Scotorum et Elizabeth More, +Dominus de Buchan et Dns _de Badenoch, qui obit vigessimo quarto +die Julii_.” The words in italics have been restored, and there +is a mistake in the date, as Alexander Stewart died 20th February +1394.--_Monuments and Monumental Inscriptions in Scotland_, by Rev. +Charles Rogers, LL. D., &c., for Grampian Club, 2 vols., 1871 and 1872. + +[30] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 10. + +[31] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 96. + +[32] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 416. + +[33] Vol. I. p. 20. + +[34] _Ibid_. p. 220. + +[35] _Ibid_. p. 421. + +[36] _Ibid_. p. 20. + +[37] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 415. + +[38] In _Iona_, by the Bishop of Argyll and the Isles (1866). + +[39] Vol. I. (Fig. 382.) + +[40] _View of the Diocese of Aberdeen_: Spalding Club, p. 151. + +[41] _Ibid._ p. 148. + +[42] _Ibid._ p. 163. + +[43] Orme’s _Description of Old Aberdeen_, p. 61. + +[44] See Orme, p. 28. + +[45] View of the Diocese, p. 150. + +[46] Orme, pp. 42 and 62. + +[47] _Ibid._ p. 43. + +[48] Orme, p. 132. + +[49] Wilson’s _Memorials of Edinburgh_, Vol. II. p. 133. + +[50] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 532. + +[51] This Plan is copied from that in the _Collegiate Churches of +Midlothian_, by D. Laing. + +[52] Vol. II. + +[53] Sir D. Wilson states that the whole church was roofed with stone +till 1814, when slates were substituted.--_Memorials of Edinburgh_, +Vol. II. p. 174. + +[54] _The Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_, p. xxxi. + +[55] _The Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_, p. xxii. + +[56] Bannatyne Club, 1842. + +[57] _Memorabilia of Perth_, pp. 63-66: Perth, 1806. + +[58] _The Church of Scotland in the Thirteenth Century_, by William +Lockhart, A.M. + +[59] _Memorabilia_, p. 23. + +[60] _Exchequer Rolls_, Vol. II. p. cxii.; Vol. +III. p. lxxii. + +[61] _Book of Perth_, p. xxvi., by John Lawson: Edinburgh, 1847. + +[62] _Perth: Its Annals and Archives_, by David Peacock, 1849, p. 589. + +[63] _Historical Manuscripts Commission_, 14th Report, Appendix, Part +III. p. 26. + +[64] _Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer_, Vol. I. p. +121. + +[65] _Ibid._ p. 323. + +[66] _Book of Perth_, p. 168. + +[67] _Chronicle_, p. 7. + +[68] _Ibid._ p. 11. + +[69] _Book of Perth_, p. 275. + +[70] We are indebted to Mr. Ramsay Traquair, architect, Edinburgh, for +assistance in connection with the Plan of this church. + +[71] _Chronicle of Perth_, Maitland Club. + +[72] _Scottish Antiquary_, January 1897, p. 137. + +[73] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. pp. 529, 530. + +[74] _Book of Perth_, p. 109. + +[75] _Lindores Abbey_, by A. Laing, pp. 55, 107. + +[76] Mr. R. C. Walker, Dundee. + +[77] M‘Kerlie’s _Galloway_, Vol. i. p. 172. + +[78] _New Statistical Account._ + +[79] _Maitland’s History of Edinburgh_, p. 152. + +[80] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +II. p. 358. + +[81] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, Scotland, 1896._ We +are indebted to Mr. Coles for the Plan of the site (see Fig. 1066). + +[82] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +I. p. 366. + +[83] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, Scotland_, Vol. +XII. p. 223. + +[84] _The Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_ (Bannatyne Club), p. xciv. + +[85] _Transactions of the Royal Institute of British Architects, 1846._ + +[86] In this connection George Gilbert Scott, in his _Essay on the +History of English Church Architecture_, p. 111., says that it is an +“exceedingly able example of the style of the Scottish architecture of +the fifteenth century.” + +[87] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +III. p. 26. + +[88] In the Advocates’ Library, Edinburgh. + +[89] _Heraldry_, Vol. I. p. 274, and Vol. +II. pp. 21 and 151. + +[90] _Preface to Churches of Mid-Lothian_, Bannatyne Club, p. +III. + +[91] _Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_, by David Laing. Bannatyne +Club, p. II. + +[92] We are indebted to Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect, Dundee, for +assistance with the drawings and description of this church. + +[93] We have to thank Mr. W. R. Macdonald for descriptive notes of +these pictures. + +[94] We have to thank the Curators for permission to publish this +illustration. + +[95] _Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_, Bannatyne Club, p. xci. + +[96] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +IV. p. 160. + +[97] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Session +1857-8, p. 25. + +[98] _Ibid._ p. 94. + +[99] _Ibid._ p. 27. + +[100] See BANNATYNE MISCELLANY, Vol. II. p. 101. + +[101] _Collegiate Churches in Mid-Lothian_, Bannatyne Club, p. lxxxiv. + +[102] _Ibid._ + +[103] A plan and view of the church before it was rebuilt and some +notes regarding the building are given in the _Arniston Memoirs_, by G. +W. T. Omond, p. 6. + +[104] _Arniston Memoirs._ + +[105] Vol. I. p. 64. + +[106] In regard to this church we are indebted to an illustrated +article by Mr. A. M. Mackenzie, in the _Transactions of the Aberdeen +Ecclesiological Society, 1890_, and to Mr. T. S. Robertson and Mr. W. +S. Walker of Dundee. + +[107] Arbuthnott Missal, 1864, p. lxxxvii. The Pitsligo Press. + +[108] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries_, Session 1892. Vol. +II. third Series, by William MacGillivray, W.S., F.S.A., +Scot. + +[109] Particulars regarding this church are to be found in _The +Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_, Bannatyne Club, edited by David +Laing; and a paper by the same author in the _Proceedings of The +Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. XI. 1874-76, p. +353. + +[110] _The Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_, p. lxvi. + +[111] Chamberlain Rolls, Vol. III. p. 263. + +[112] See Crawfurd’s _Officers of State_, p. 311; and Crawfurd’s +_Peerage_, p. 148. + +[113] We have to thank Mr. W. Rae Macdonald for assistance in +connection with this heraldry. + +[114] _Ancient Parochial and Collegiate Churches of Scotland_, p. 53. + +[115] See _The East Neuk of Fife_, p. 405, and _sequ._ + +[116] From _The Churches of St. Baldred_, by C. L. Ritchie, p. 31. + +[117] See _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, +Session 1857 and 1860, p. 160, where the “bond” will be found +transcribed, with other information regarding the church. + +[118] _Archæologia Scotica_, Vol. V. Part +III. p. 436, by Norman Macpherson, LL.D. + +[119] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, New +Series, Vol. XI., by P. J. Anderson, M.A., LL.B. + +[120] We are indebted for these dimensions and for Figs. 1208, 1212, +and 1213 to Mr. J. C. Watt, architect, Aberdeen. + +[121] _The History of the Troubles and Memorable Transactions in +Scotland_, by John Spalding. + +[122] _Early Scottish History_, by Innes, p. 314. + +[123] _Fasti Aberdonenses_, p. 283. + +[124] _Caledonia_, pp. 433, 512, 534. Nisbet, _An Essay on Armories_, +p. 98. + +[125] A short account of this church, pointing out the relation +which existed in the sixteenth century between the domestic and +ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland, is given in _The Castellated +and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. V. p. 141, +but the main features of the edifice are not there fully described. + +[126] See Fig. 1258 in Vol. II. p. 142 of _The +Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_. + +[127] _The Story of the Parish Church of Stirling_, by Treasurer +Ronald, p. 12. + +[128] See also Fig. 1259 in _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture +of Scotland_, Vol. V. p. 143. + +[129] We are indebted for this Plan and other details of the chapel to +Mr. John W. Small, architect, Stirling. + +[130] Spottiswoode. + +[131] Illustrated in _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of +Scotland_, Vol. III. p. 498. + +[132] _History of the Kennedies_, p. 167. + +[133] _Biggar and the House of Fleming_, p. 164. + +[134] _The Upper Ward of Lanarkshire_, Vol. II. p. 483. + +[135] Information regarding the history of this church is derived +from a paper on the subject by the Rev. J. Cooper, M.A., in the +_Transactions of the Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society, 1891_. + +[136] _View of the Diocese of Aberdeen_, p. 200. + +[137] We are indebted to A. Marshall Mackenzie, A.R.S.A., architect, +Aberdeen, for the plan and measured drawings of this church. + +[138] _New History of Aberdeenshire_, Vol. I. p. 157. + +[139] _Old Statistical Account_, Vol. X. p. 378. + +[140] See paper by Alexander Ross, architect, Inverness; _Proceedings +of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, 1884-85, p. 118. See also +Muir’s _Characteristics_, p. 69. + +[141] See Mr. Ross’s Paper, p. 125. + +[142] We are indebted to Mr. William Galloway, architect, for the Plan +of this priory and for most of the description of the buildings; while +our thanks are due to Mr. J. Harvey Brown for the photographs from +which the views are copied. + +[143] See Vol. I. p. 65. + +[144] Pennant, Vol. II. p. 271. + +[145] Pennant, Vol. II. p. 270. + +[146] Figured by Pennant, and in Stuart’s _Sculptured Stones of +Scotland_, plates 38 and 39. + +[147] T. S. Muir, _Ecclesiological Notes_, p. 34. + +[148] “Life of Bishop Elphinston,” _Orme’s History_, p. 26. + +[149] Spalding Club, p. 388. + +[150] _Antiquities of Aberdeen and Banff_, Vol. III. p. +147. + +[151] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 411. + +[152] Statistical Account. + +[153] For information regarding the inscriptions in this church, we are +indebted to a paper by the late Mr. Andrew Jervise in the _Proceedings +of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. IX. p. +278. + +[154] See _Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society’s Transactions, 1893_, p. +95. + +[155] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +IV. p. 394. + +[156] Illustrated in Dr. Stuart’s work on the sculptured stones. + +[157] In connection with the Berwickshire churches, we are indebted to +Mr. Ferguson and Mr. Fortune, Duns. + +[158] Mackenzie Walcott, in his notice of “St. Bothan’s,” in _The +Ancient Church of Scotland_, p. 379, says, “The chapel measured 58 feet +by 84 feet,” and he quotes the _Caledonia_, where, however, nothing is +said about its dimensions. + +[159] _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 344. + +[160] To whom we are indebted for the drawings and notes in connection +with this church. + +[161] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 382. + +[162] _The pre-Reformation Churches of Berwickshire_, p. 18. + +[163] _The pre-Reformation Churches of Berwickshire_, by J. Ferguson, +Duns, to whom we are indebted for the Plan. + +[164] _Characteristics of Old Church Architecture_, p. 57. + +[165] _Archæologica Scotica_, Vol. III. p. 1. + +[166] There is also an interesting paper on this subject by Mr. +James C. Roger in the _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of +Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 446. + +[167] Information regarding the history of the above structures has +been kindly supplied by Mr. Donald M‘Leod, author of _The God’s Acres +of Dumbarton_, and other works relating to the district. + +[168] The particulars of the history of this chapel are taken from +Irving’s _Dumbartonshire_. + +[169] The ancient castle of the Napiers at Kilmahew is illustrated +in _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +III. p. 443. + +[170] Irving’s _Dumbartonshire_, p. 431. + +[171] _History of Liddesdale and the Debateable Land_, by R. +Bruce Armstrong, p. 119. We are indebted to Mr. Armstrong for the +accompanying illustration. + +[172] The plan and sketches of this structure are copied from drawings +made and kindly lent by Mr. Robert Weir Schultz, architect, Gray’s Inn +Square, London. + +[173] This Plan has been kindly supplied by Mr. Robert Weir Schultz, +architect, London, under whose directions the excavations were made. + +[174] _History of Sanquhar_, by James Brown. Menzies & Co., 1891. + +[175] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 145. + +[176] _East Neuk of Fife_, p. 92. + +[177] _East Neuk of Fife_, p. 93. + +[178] “The Dominican Friars at St. Andrews,” _Transactions of the +Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society_, by David Henry, F.S.A. Scot. 1893. + +[179] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 230. + +[180] _Mainland Characteristics_, p. 47. + +[181] The annexed drawing is from a sketch by Mr. T. S. Robertson. + +[182] For the drawings of this church we are indebted to Mr. T. S. +Robertson. + +[183] For a fuller notice of this church and its sculptured stones, +see _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Session +1870-72, Vol. IX., by the Rev. Dr. Duke, to whom we are +indebted for assistance; as also to Mr. Robertson for some notes and a +sketch. + +[184] _Scotland in Early Christian Times_, p. 49. + +[185] For an account of this Bishop see _Antiquities and History of +Ireland_, by the Right Honourable Sir James Wace, Knight; Dublin, 1705, +p. 68 of Lists of Bishops. + +[186] _History of Dunbar_, by James Miller, p. 184. + +[187] See _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 332. + +[188] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 27. + +[189] A. Jervise in _The Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of +Scotland, 1874_, p. 730. + +[190] We are indebted to Mr. F. R. Coles for the drawings and notes of +this church. + +[191] _Characteristics_, p. 56. + +[192] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +III. p. 239. + +[193] _Upper Ward of Lanarkshire_, Vol. I. p. 462. + +[194] See preface to _Registrum of the Collegiate Churches of +Mid-Lothian_, by D. Laing, p. xliii. + +[195] _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 950. + +[196] _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 942. + +[197] _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 942. + +[198] A. G. Reid, _Notes and Queries_, 8th. e. January 1897, p. 45. + +[199] Information regarding this abbey has been obtained from the +_Rental Book of the Cistercian Abbey of Coupar Angus_, edited by the +Rev. Charles Rogers, LL.D. The Grampian Club, 1879. + +[200] _Rental Book of Coupar_, Vol. I. p. xxiii. + +[201] _Rental Book of Coupar_, Vol. II. p. xxxiv. + +[202] _The Spalding Club Miscellany_, Vol. II. p. 348. + +[203] _Rental Book of Coupar_, Vol. I. pp. 304, 309. + +[204] _Rental Book of Coupar_, Vol. I. pp. 304, 309. + +[205] In connection with Forgandenny Church we are indebted for +assistance to Mr. Collingwood Lindsay Wood of Freeland and Mr. T. T. +Oliphant, St. Andrews, by the former of whom certain works were done to +enable the building to be examined. + +[206] See _Liber Insula Missarum_, Bannatyne Club, 1847. + +[207] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +II. p. 193. + +[208] For description of Stobhall Church, see _The Castellated and +Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 359. + +[209] _Chronicles of Strathearn_, D. Philips, Crieff, 1896, p. 325. + +[210] Possibly the chamber over the vestibule above described. + +[211] From a sketch by Mr. T. S. Robertson. + +[212] The history of this church and its provosts, _The Provostry of +Methven_, was written by the late Rev. Thomas Morris, assistant Old +Greyfriars’, Edinburgh, and privately printed by the late William +Smythe, Esq., Methven, 1875. See also _Memorials of Angus and Mearns_, +by Andrew Jervise. + +[213] Vol. II. New Series, 1887-1894. + +[214] _Crawford’s Renfrewshire_, p. 54. + +[215] _Crawford’s Renfrewshire_, p. 100. + +[216] _Our Journall into Scotland_, A.D. 1629, by C. +Lother. Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1894. + +[217] _History of Selkirkshire_, by T. Craig Brown. + +[218] _Early Christian Symbolism_, by Romilly Allen, p. 374. + +[219] We are indebted for the Plan of this church to Mr. F. R. Coles. + +[220] _Ecclesiological Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland, &c._ +p. 245. + +[221] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 130. + +[222] _Book of Deer_, preface, p. iv. + +[223] _Shires of Aberdeen and Banff_, Vol. II. p. 373. + +[224] _East Neuk of Fife_, p. 343. + +[225] _Ibid._ p. 361. + +[226] _Ibid._ p. 632. + +[227] A number of examples of this style have been illustrated and +described in _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_. +See “Churches and Monuments,” Vol. V. p. 130. + +[228] We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect, Dundee, for the +Plan and description of this church. + +[229] We have to thank Mr. William Galloway, Whithorn, for the drawings +and particulars of this structure. + +[230] The Plan is drawn from a sketch kindly supplied by the Rev. Alex. +Miller of Buckie. + +[231] _Angus or Forfarshire_, by Alexander J. Warden, Vol. +III. p. 205. + +[232] _Kalendars of the Saints._ + +[233] “The Old Pulpit of St. Cuthbert’s,” by Rev. Cumberland Hill; +_Edinburgh Daily Review_, November 1868. + +[234] Described and illustrated in _The Castellated and Domestic +Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 237. + +[235] _Guide to Buchan._ + +[236] _Shires of Aberdeen and Banff_, Spalding Club, Vol. +IV. p. 580. + +[237] _Ibid._ Vol. II. p. 363. + +[238] See _Red Book of Grandtully_, Sir William Fraser. Privately +printed. + +[239] We are indebted to Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect, for the Plan +and description of this church. + +[240] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +II. p. 155, and Vol. III. p. 304. + +[241] Since this description was written the foundations of the side +walls have been excavated by the Duke of Hamilton, and from these +operations it has been discovered that the church was originally of +Norman construction. The foundations of a south-west doorway have been +laid bare, and show that it has had nook-shafts with Norman bases. A +north door, opposite the above, has also been discovered. + +[242] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +IV. p. 339. + +[243] We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect, for the drawings +of this church. + +[244] For the illustrations of this church we are indebted to Mr. R. +Weir Schultz, architect, London. + +[245] _Origines Parochiales._ + +[246] _Ibid._ + +[247] See _Caledonia_, Vol. II. pp. 479 and 550. + +[248] _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. + +[249] See Mid-Calder Church. + +[250] See Vol. II. p. 453. + +[251] See description by Rev. John Struthers, _The Proceedings of the +Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. IV. p. 225. + +[252] See paper by the late Walter F. Lyon, in _The Proceedings of the +Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, 1892-3, p. 79. + +[253] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 149. + +[254] For further information see _Pre-Reformation Churches of +Berwickshire_. + +[255] This church is illustrated in _The Castellated and Domestic +Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. V. p. 171. See Paper by the late J. +Fowler Hislop in _The Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of +Scotland_, 1892, p. 241. + +[256] _View of the Diocese of Aberdeen_, Spalding Club, p. 133. + +[257] _Shires of Aberdeen and Banff_, Vol. II. p. 392. + +[258] _Ibid._ Vol. IV. p. 126. + +[259] _Caledonia_, Vol. III. p. 561. + +[260] _Pont’s Cunningham_, by Dobie, p. 325. + +[261] _The Upper Ward of Lanarkshire_, Vol. I. p. 385. + +[262] _The Historical Castles and Mansions of Scotland_, p. 60. + +[263] We are indebted for this sketch to Mr. A. H. Millar. + +[264] See _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. +V. p. 193. + +[265] See _ante_, p. 500. + +[266] _Chronicle of the Picts and Scots_, p. 183. + +[267] _Sculptured Stones of Scotland_, Vol. II. +p. 58; _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. I. p. 297 and Vol. +II. p. 265; _Early Christian Symbolism_, by J. Romilly +Allen, p. 239. + +[268] Since this proof was revised by Mr. Galloway, a month ago, we +regret to be informed of his death. + +[269] Since Mr. Galloway’s drawings were made the ground round the +chancel has been excavated, and the Norman base is seen to extend along +the Norman part of the chancel, as mentioned in the text. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 65014 *** |