diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 4 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-0.txt | 11431 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-0.zip | bin | 227807 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h.zip | bin | 5796085 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/64132-h.htm | 12803 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 177016 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/map-nwb.jpg | bin | 1721776 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/map-nws.jpg | bin | 48496 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/map-swb.jpg | bin | 2171343 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/map-sws.jpg | bin | 56776 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/p0b.jpg | bin | 879735 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/p0s.jpg | bin | 45781 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/p240b.jpg | bin | 436569 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64132-h/images/p240s.jpg | bin | 45489 -> 0 bytes |
16 files changed, 17 insertions, 24234 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a010d48 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #64132 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64132) diff --git a/old/64132-0.txt b/old/64132-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b34e639..0000000 --- a/old/64132-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11431 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Cambrian Tourist [1834], by Anonymous - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: The Cambrian Tourist [1834] - or, Post-Chaise Companion through Wales - - -Author: Anonymous - - - -Release Date: December 26, 2020 [eBook #64132] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST [1834]*** - - -Transcribed from the 1834 Whittaker & Co. edition by David Price. - - [Picture: The Menai Bridge] - - - - - - THE - CAMBRIAN TOURIST, - - - OR, - - POST-CHAISE COMPANION - - THROUGH - - WALES; - - CONTAINING CURSORY SKETCHES OF THE - - WELSH TERRITORIES, - - AND - - A DESCRIPTION OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND GAMES - OF THE NATIVES. - - * * * * * - - _EIGHTH EDITION_. - - * * * * * - - THE WHOLE CORRECTED, AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - PRINTED FOR WHITTAKER & CO. - - AVE MARIA LANE. - - * * * * * - - 1834. - - - - -ACCOUNT OF THE WELSH LANGUAGE. - - -_The force of the Letters—List of Primitive Words—Character of the -Language and of the Poetry_. - -It is supposed that there were anciently, in the Welsh or British -Language, {0} no less than thirty-six letters, sixteen of which were -radicals, that expressed the primary sounds; and the rest, modulations or -dependents on them. For each of these, it is probable that there was -formerly a simple appropriate character; but, since the invention of -printing, and the introduction of Roman letters, it has been necessary, -for want of a sufficient variety of cast for the purpose, to adopt two, -and in one instance even three, of those letters, to express one sound or -character, by which much of the simplicity and beauty of the proper -alphabet has been lost. - -The present printed books contain only twenty-seven characters: A, B, C, -Ch, D, Dd, E, F, Ff, G, Ng, H, I, L, Ll, M, N, O, P, Ph, R, S, T, Th, U, -W, and Y; having neither J, K, X, nor Z. C answers the purpose of K, -when joined with W or Q; and when placed with S, of X. It is said that Z -is used in the Armorican language, which is a dialect of this; but the -Welsh disown it. - -No letter has any variation of sound, except the accented vowels, â, ê, -î, ô, û, ŵ, ŷ, which are lengthened, or otherwise, according to the power -of the accent, and all are pronounced, as there are no mutes. - -A has the same sound as the English open _a_ in the word _bard_. - -C is always hard as _k_. - -Ch, which is accounted but as one consonant, is a guttural, as _Chi_ in -Greek, or _ch_, _Cheth_, in Hebrew. - -Dd is an aspirated _d_, and has the sound of _th_ in the words _this_, -_that_. _Dda_, good, is pronounced _Tha_. - -F has the sound of an English _v_. - -I is sounded as in the Italian, or like our _ee_ in _been_; thus _cîl_, a -retreat, is pronounced _keel_. - -Ll is an aspirated _l_, and has much the sound of _thl_. _Llangollen_ is -pronounced _Thlangothlen_. - -R, as in the Greek language, is always aspirated at the beginning of a -word. - -U sounds like the _i_ in _limb_, _him_, &c. - -W is a vowel, and has the power of _oo_ in _soon_. - -Y is in some words pronounced like _i_ in _third_; in others like _o_ in -_honey_: and again, in others as the _u_ in _mud_, _must_, &c. - -V is sometimes used instead of _f_. B and P, C and G, and U and Y, are -used promiscuously, as were formerly V and M. - - * * * * * - -The following is a list of primitive words, which, as they very commonly -occur in the names of places, &c. the tourist may find them of use. - -_Aber_, a confluence; the fall of one river into another or into the sea, -as _Aberdovey_, the conflux of the Dovey. - -_Avon_, what flows; and from thence a stream or river. - -_Allt_, a cliff; the steep of a hill. - -_Ar_, upon; bordering or abutting upon. - -_Bach_, and _Bychan_, little: these are of the masculine gender, and -_Vychan_ and _Vechan_ are feminine. - -_Bôd_, a dwelling, residence, or station. - -_Bryn_, a hill. - -_Bwlch_, a gap or pass between rocks. - -_Cader_, a keep, fortress, or strong hold. - -_Caer_, a fort, or fortified place, generally constructed with stones and -mortar. - -_Castell_, a castle. - -_Coed_, a wood. - -_Carnedd_, a heap of stones. - -_Cefen_, a ridge; or high ground. - -_Clawdd_, a ditch, dike, or trench; and sometimes a wall or fence. - -_Clogwyn_, a precipice. - -_Craig_, a rock: from this the English word _Crag_ is derived. - -_Cwm_, a great hollow or glen; sometimes a valley. - -_Dinas_, a fort, or fortified place, constructed in general with a -rampart of loose stones and earth without any cement. - -_Dôl_, a meadow or dale in the bend of a river. - -_Drws_, a door, pass, or opening. - -_Dû_, black. - -_Dyffryn_, a wide cultivated valley. - -_Ffynnon_, a spring, well, or source. - -_Garth_, a mountain that bends round, or that incloses. - -_Glan_, a bank or shore. - -_Glyn_, a deep vale, through which a river runs:—from hence was derived -our word _Glen_. - -_Gwern_, a watery meadow. - -_Gwydd_, a wood; woody or wild. - -_Gwyn_, white. - -_Goch_, or _Coch_, red. - -_Llan_, a smooth plot; a place of meeting; the church, place, or village; -and figuratively the church. - -_Llech_, a flat stone, or crag; a smooth cliff. - -_Llwyn_, a grove or copse. - -_Llyn_, a pool, pond, or mere. - -_Maen_, a stone. - -_Maes_, an open field. - -_Mawr_, great:—_Vach_, little. - -_Moel_, fair; bald; a smooth mountain. - -_Morfa_, a marsh. - -_Mynydd_, a mountain. - -_Pant_, a narrow hollow, or ravine. - -_Pen_, a head, top, or end. - -_Plâs_, a hall, or mansion. - -_Pont_, a bridge. - -_Porth_, a port. - -_Rhiw_, an ascent. - -_Rhôs_, a moist plain, or meadow. - -_Rhyd_, a ford. - -_Sarn_, a causeway. - -_Tal_, the front, head, or end. - -_Traeth_, a sand on the sea-shore. - -_Tref_, a township. - -_Ty_, a house. - -_Ynys_, an island. - -The Welsh language is possessed of numerous beauties. Its copiousness is -very great; and it has no rival in the variety of its synonymous forms of -expression, principally arising from the rich combinations of its verbs; -for every simple verb has about twenty modifications, by means of -qualifying prefixes; and in every form it may be conjugated, either by -inflexions, like the Latin, or by the auxiliaries, as in English. It -rivals the Greek, in its aptitude to form the most beautiful derivatives, -as well as in the elegance, facility, and expressiveness of an infinite -variety of compounds. The author of letters from Snowdon has justly -remarked, that it has the softness and harmony of the Italian, with the -majesty and expression of the Greek. Of these I will give two singular -and striking instances, one of which is an _Englyn_, or epigram on the -silk-worm; composed entirely of vowels. - - O’i wiw y ŵi weu ê â, a’i weuau - O’i ŵyau y weua; - E’ weua ei ŵe aia’, - A’i weuau yw ieuau iâ. - - “I perish by my art; dig mine own grave: - I spin my thread of life; my death I weave.” - -The other a distich on thunder, the grandeur of which is scarcely to be -surpassed in any language. - - Tân a dŵr yn ymwriaw, - Yw’r taranau dreigiau draw. - - “The roaring thunder, dreadful in its ire, - Its water warring with aërial fire.” - -The metre of the Welsh poetry is very artificial and alliterative, -possessing such peculiar ingenuity in the selection and arrangement of -words, as to produce a rhythmical concatenation of sounds in every verse. -The old British language abounded with consonants, and was formed of -monosyllables, which are incompatible with quantity; and the bards could -reduce it to concord by no other means than by placing at such intervals -its harsher consonants, so intermixing them with vowels, and so adapting, -repeating, and dividing the several sounds, as to produce an agreeable -effect from their structure. Hence the laws of poetical composition in -this language are so strict and rigorous, that were it not for a -particular aptitude that it has for that kind of alliterative melody, -which is as essential as harmony in music, and which constitutes the -great beauty of its poetry, the genius of the bard must have been greatly -cramped. To the ears of the natives, the Welsh metre is extremely -pleasing, and does not subject the bard to more restraint than the -different sorts of feet occasioned to the Greek and Roman poets. From -the reign of Llywelyn to that of Elizabeth, the laws of alliteration were -prescribed, and observed with such scrupulous exactness, that a line not -perfectly alliterative was condemned as much by the Welsh grammarians, as -a false quantity was by the Greeks and Romans. - - [Picture: Map of South Wales] - - - - -THE -CAMBRIAN TOURIST. - - - These are the haunts of Meditation, these - The scenes where ancient bards th’ inspiring breath - Ecstatic felt. - - THOMSON. - -As a centrical situation from which to undertake a Tour to either North -or South Wales, and to which conveyances are now established from all -parts of England and Scotland, I fixed on Oxford. And should the -Tourist’s undertaking be commenced early in the season, and his time to -enjoy it be ample, he will have the opportunity of viewing this seat of -learning and nursery of the arts to advantage; the elegant piles of -building which Oxford exhibits, the stores of learned wealth which it -possesses, and the beautiful paintings which adorn its halls and -colleges, are so cheaply and so fully described in the Oxford Guides, -that to attempt to do it in this work would be superfluous, if not -ridiculous: still I may be excused for pointing out to those whose period -of stay may be limited, the objects more particularly worthy their -attention. The three churches generally viewed are St. Mary’s, All -Saints, and St. Peter’s in the East. St. Mary’s is the church used by -the University on Sundays and holidays: All Saints is a beautiful modern -structure, in the High-street: St. Peter’s in the East is very ancient; -it was formerly the University Church, and is now, during Lent, attended -by the members of it for afternoon service. - -The Bodleian or University Library, one of the largest in Europe, as well -as the Picture Gallery, are to be seen in summer, from eight to two -o’clock, and from three to five; in the winter only till three in the -afternoon. The Arundel marbles are placed in a large room on the north -side of the Schools. The Theatre, in which are held the Public Acts, -called the Comitia and Encænia, and Lord Crewe’s annual commemoration, in -June or July, of the benefactors to the University, when the prizes -adjudged to particular performances are publicly recited, is a superb -edifice, and was built by Sir Christopher Wren, at the expense of -Archbishop Sheldon: it cost 16,000_l._; its roof has been greatly -admired. Near this, on the west, stands the Ashmolean Museum of natural -curiosities, coins, &c. &c. and on the other side of the Theatre, the -Clarendon Printing-house. Southward of the Schools stands in a fine area -the celebrated Radcliffe Library, a noble building with a handsome dome. - -St. Mary Magdalen College at the east end of the city, near the river -Cherwell, is particularly worthy of attention, were it only to see the -picture of our Saviour bearing his cross; supposed to be painted by -Guido. Such is the awful solemnity of the place, and the impressive -beauty of this painting, as well as of the windows, particularly of that -representing the last judgment, that none can be better calculated to -give a favourable bias to the mind of youth; for should religion waver in -the mind, the sweet benignity of Him who died to save mankind - - Shall on the heart impress such grateful love, - That Atheist ne’er can shake, or Deist move. - -The Cloister of this College, which remains in its primitive state, is -the most venerable of the University; the interior is ornamented with -curious hieroglyphics, the key to which is very fully given in the Oxford -Guide, from an ancient manuscript in the College. - -Passing by numerous other Colleges and Halls, all interesting, if the -time and inclination of the Tourist permit him to visit them, I shall -proceed to Christ Church, which merits particular attention. This -College consists of four courts: 1. The great Quadrangle; 2. Peckwater -square; 3. Canterbury court; 4. The Chaplain’s court; and some other -buildings. The noble west front is 382 feet in length. Over the great -gate in the middle of this front is a beautiful tower, designed by Sir -Christopher Wren, erected by Dr. Fell, in which is hung the great bell, -called Tom, the weight of which is eight tons and a half: on the sound of -this bell, the scholars of the University are to retire to their -respective Colleges. - -The great quadrangle is 264 by 261 feet in the clear. The Hall takes up -more than half the south side: we ascend to it by a spacious and stately -staircase of stone, the roof of which, supported by a single pillar, is -beautiful. The staircase, lobby, and entrance into the hall, have been -altered under the direction of Mr. Wyatt. The Hall is by far the most -magnificent room of the kind in Oxford. There are near 300 compartments -in the cornice, which are embellished with as many coats of arms, carved -and blazoned in their proper colours. At the upper end of the hall the -beautiful gothic window merits attention.—For the long list of portraits -of eminent persons that adorn the walls, _vide_ Oxford Guide. - -Christ Church, which is the cathedral of the diocese, formerly belonged -to St. Frideswide’s Monastery; for the roof of the choir, which is of -beautiful stone-work, it was indebted to Cardinal Wolsey. - -The east window was painted by Mr. Price, senior, of London, from a -design by Sir James Thornhill. The window at the north corner of the -west end is curiously painted, representing St. Peter delivered out of -prison by the angel. It was executed by Oliver, in his eighteenth year. -The fine ring of ten bells in the steeple, as well as Tom before -described, were brought from Oseney Abbey. Choral service is performed -every day at ten and five; except on Sundays and holidays, when it is at -eight in the morning. - -Three sides of Peckwater court are uniform, designed by Dr. Aldrich. On -the fourth side is the Library, 141 feet long, built in the Corinthian -order. In the lower apartments to the right and left are deposited the -celebrated collection of pictures, given to the College by Gen. Guise. -Amongst these is the celebrated performance of Annibal Caracci, -representing his family in a butcher’s shop. St. Francis in a vision -supported by angels, by ditto. A Medusa’s head, by Rubens. Two -Nativities, by Titian. A Nativity, by Raphael. The flight into Egypt, -by Guido Rini. Two half-lengths of women, by Dominichino. Jesus and -Saint John embracing, by Raphael, &c. &c. - -For a farther account of the various beauties of Oxford, I must again -recommend the Tourist to refer to the Oxford Guide, as well as for -information with respect to Heythrop, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury, -17 miles N. of Oxford; Ditchley, the seat of the Right Honourable Lord -Dillon, about four miles and a half from Heythrop; and Nuneham Courtney, -the seat of the late Earl Harcourt, which affords the richest treat to -the admirers of fine paintings that the country affords. - -But if a soldier’s ardour warms his soul, and he would fain be led to -deeds of arms, pursue the road to honour, and seek the pinnacle of fame, -to Blenheim’s towers let him turn his steps; and let the gentle -Rosamond’s hard fate midst Woodstock’s bowers beguile him of a sigh; for -love and war should still go hand in hand. Here well-earned honours have -been well repaid; and great as Marlborough’s noble deeds in arms shall -shine in the historic page, still shall a sovereign’s and a nation’s -gratitude outvie the hero’s deeds. - -Blenheim, the princely residence of his grace the Duke of Marlborough, is -situated about eight miles from Oxford, to the west of Woodstock, from -which town you enter the Park by a spacious portal of the Corinthian -order. The noble view of the house of Blenheim, the extent of the park, -the lake, valley, and richly varied scenery, are from hence highly -impressive. The architecture of this noble pile of building, the -interior finish and display of the arts, increase rather than diminish -the first impression. The circumference of the park is about eleven -miles: the gardens are tastefully displayed, owing much to nature, whose -beauties are here happily blended with art. - -The distance from Woodstock to Witney is eight miles and three quarters, -by a turnpike road; thence to Burford, seven miles and a quarter; -Northleach, nine miles; Cheltenham, twelve miles and three quarters. - - - -CHELTENHAM. - - -’Twas from hence with a friend, an equal admirer of Nature’s landscapes, -and attached to pedestrian independence, that a tourist resolved to visit -the wild and impressive scenery of the Cambrian mountains. The outlines -of their route being arranged, they sallied forth in the month of July -from this place so much resorted to, and celebrated for its mineral -waters. Since it has become a place of fashion, the lodging-houses have -been considerably improved, and rendered comfortable for the company, who -make this place their residence. The season usually commences about May, -and frequently continues till the beginning of November. The majority of -the company who frequent Cheltenham resort here not so much for the -purpose of water-drinking, as to enjoy the delightful walks and rides, -and partake of the sociability of the neighbourhood. - -The Walk at the Pump-room, well planned, and kept in excellent order, is -planted on each side with limes; at the end is a small square, where the -pump is situate, with a room on the left for the accommodation of the -company to promenade, measuring sixty-six feet by twenty-three: on the -opposite side a reading-room, with a billiard-table over: and a house, -the residence of the attendant at the Spa: beyond that is a similar walk -which leads to another serpentine walk; from the end of this the spire of -Cheltenham church forms a beautiful object. Near these walks stands, on -an eminence, the seat of the Earl of Fauconberg; which was the royal -residence during their Majesties’ stay from July 12 to August 16, 1788. - -In respect to the Rides, Cleave Hill, Dowdeswell, &c. Tewkesbury and -Glocester are most admired. - -Speaking of the history of the place, we find Cheltenham was a town in -the reign of King William the Conqueror; Edward likewise is supposed to -have marched through it, before he encamped his army on the field of -Tewkesbury; previous to the battle of the houses of York and Lancaster. - -Three days may be passed very pleasantly at this place, in viewing the -various improvements that have been made in the last twenty-five years, -tending both to increase the health and pleasure of its numerous and -respectable visitors: for these improvements the town is greatly indebted -to the exertions of Messrs. Moreau, King, and Fotheringham, the masters -of the ceremonies. Duty with such men scarcely required the additional -stimulus of interest to render it efficacious; but with so powerful an -auxiliary it was irresistible: thousands have been expended after -thousands; public spirit was roused, and competition excited. The -public, as well as Messrs. Thompson, Skillicorne, Capstack, Smith, -Barrett, Watson and Co., and all others who have spiritedly adventured -their property, will, I hope, derive mutual advantage, if not checked by -the high charges of some of the principal inns, and the enormous -establishments of the overbearing, monopolizing barrack lodging-houses, -apparently better calculated for workhouses or houses of correction, than -places of residence for valetudinarians. - -The wells and baths are numerous, and calculated, under proper medical -superintendence, for all chronic disorders and constitutions; but they -are not to be trifled with: professional advice, for their proper use, is -absolutely necessary. - -Of the efficacy of the water, to which this town is indebted for its -present celebrity, I refer my readers to a Treatise published by Dr. -Fothergill, of Bath. - -The church is a respectable old building, by far too crowded and -encumbered with galleries, and what are intended as accommodations for a -large congregation, to allow all parties to participate in and profit by -the discourses there delivered. - -The rooms and public receptacles for company, it should be the business -of some party to see closed, at all events on Sunday, and particularly on -Sunday morning, against those errant gamblers, that will eventually be -the bane of Cheltenham. - -Libraries and Banks are numerous, as are conveyances to London through -Oxford, and to Bristol through Gloucester: here likewise are conveyances -to Hereford, Worcester, Birmingham, &c., and by that route to North -Wales; but this is not to be depended upon: but to South Wales, through -Gloucester and Hereford, the conveyance by coach and waggon for -passengers or baggage is ready and convenient. - -For further particulars relative to this splendid modern establishment, -for such Cheltenham certainly may with propriety be designated, I must -refer the reader to the Cheltenham Guide; the information derived from -which will amply repay him for its trifling cost. From hence to -Gloucester, eight miles one furlong, the road is excellent; and if time -allows, Tewkesbury is worthy of a visit, being only nine miles from -Cheltenham, and ten miles and a half from Gloucester. - -Its ancient abbey is a venerable building, founded in 715, by two -brothers, Odo and Dodo, who endowed it with the manor of Stanway in -Gloucestershire, &c. &c. sufficient to maintain a prior and four monks of -the order of Benedictines: this priory was afterwards, about the year -980, subjected to the priory of Cranbourne, in Dorsetshire, but being -subsequently rebuilt in 1102, by Robert Fitz-Hamon, and its endowments -greatly enlarged, Girald, the Abbot of Cranbourne, on account of the -fruitfulness of the soil, and superiority of its situation, removed his -establishment to it, leaving only a prior and two monks at Cranbourne. -From this period it appears to have risen in consequence as a town. - -The ashes of many noble characters are here deposited; and amongst the -rest, amidst the mingled heap of slain and murdered at and after the -battle of Tewkesbury, those of the accomplished and lamented Edward, -Prince of Wales, son of King Henry the Sixth; Edmund, Duke of Somerset; -his brother John de Somerset, the Earl of Devonshire; Lord Wenlock, -Master of the Horse to the Prince, with numerous others. Here likewise -rest in peace, where all animosities are forgotten, the remains of -_false_, _fleeting_, _perjured Clarence_; as also those of Isabel his -wife, who was buried with great pomp and solemnity. - -Further particulars of this ancient town the reader will obtain by -reference to a small but interesting historical work, on the Antiquities -of Tewkesbury, by W. Dyde of that place; who, after giving a very full -and explicit account of the contest betwixt the houses of York and -Lancaster, concludes by saying, “The local memorials of this very -decisive battle are but few. The principal scenes of the action are the -meadow, which has received the appellation of Bloody Meadow, and the -Vineyard. The former lies between two gently descending banks, about -half a mile south-west of the town, and was the spot where the slaughter -was the greatest. The latter was the place where Queen Margaret lay, and -where some intrenchments are still to be traced.” - -Stebbing says, “to the monastery and convent of Tewkesbury, King Henry -the Seventh granted the parochial church of Towton to pray for the soul -of Edmund, Duke of Somerset, his brother John, and others, who lost their -lives in the quarrel of the house of Lancaster.” - -The entrance to Tewkesbury from Worcester, or Hereford and Malvern, after -a heavy fall of rain, presents to the eye the largest moveable body of -inland water I have witnessed in England; the junction of the Severn, and -the Warwickshire Avon, each overflowing their banks, rushing down two -beautiful vales to join their currents opposite the town, and augmenting -their volume by _the_ two tributary streams of the Carron and the -Swilgate, impress you with the idea of the vicinity of the sea, and the -power of the tide, to collect so large a body of that fluid element in -such overpowering currents. The drive or ride from Tewkesbury to Upton, -and from thence to Malvern hills, is beautiful; indeed, not one inch of -this delightful country should be missed or slighted, by travelling over -it in the dark or in bad weather: the view from Malvern hills over -Worcester, and the rich vale through which the Severn’s current rolls, is -perhaps as fine a one as the eye of the painter could wish to be indulged -with. Winding round the Malvern hills by a good turnpike road, you gain -the Herefordshire view, with the mountains of Wales in the back ground, -having Ross on the left, and Bromyard, Leominster, and Salop on the -right; descending the hill, you soon reach Ledbury, scarcely remarkable -for any thing but the antiquity of its houses, and the fine quality of -the cider and perry made in its vicinity. Malvern is about an equal -distance from Ledbury and Upton, and those places are nearly equi-distant -from - - - -GLOUCESTER. - - -The pin manufactory was established here by John Tisley, in the year -1626, and the business is now become so extensive that the returns from -London alone are estimated at near twenty thousand pounds per annum. -Before the introduction of pins into England, anno 1548, skewers of -brass, silver, and gold, and likewise thorns curiously scraped, called by -the Welch women pindraen, were used. Though the pins themselves are -apparently simple, yet their manufacture is not a little curious and -complex. The wire in its most rough state is brought from a wire company -in the neighbourhood of Bristol: till the year 1563 English iron wire was -drawn out by manual strength. The first operation attending this curious -process is the fixing the circular roll of wire to the circumference of a -wheel, which in its rotation throwing the wire against a board, with -great violence, takes off the black external coat: vitriol is next -applied to bring the brass to its common colour. The brass wire being -too thick for the purpose of being cut into pins, is reduced to any -dimension the workman pleases, by forcibly drawing it through an orifice -in a steel plate, of a similar diameter. The wire being thus reduced to -its proper dimensions, is next straightened: it is then cut into portions -of six inches in length, and afterwards to the size of the pin, and each -piece respectively sharpened on a grinding-stone, turned by a wheel. We -now come to a distinct branch of the manufactory; the forming the heads, -or, as the workmen term it, head spinning: this is accomplished by means -of a spinning-wheel, which, with astonishing rapidity, winds the wire -round a small rod: this, when drawn out, leaves a hollow tube between the -circumvolutions: every two circumvolutions, or turns, being cut with -shears, form one head. The heads thus formed are distributed to -children, who, with great dexterity, by the assistance of an anvil, or -hammer, worked by the foot, fix the point and the head together. The -pins, thus formed, are boiled in a copper, containing a solution of -block-tin pulverized, and the lees of port; and by this last process it -changes its yellow brassy colour, and assumes the appearance of silver or -tin. The labourers are all paid according to the weight of their work. - -Near Gloucester, at the small island of Alney, formed by the river Severn -dividing itself into two branches, historians relate that Canute and -Edmund, after many bloody engagements in Essex, determined to prevent a -farther effusion of blood by a single combat. Neither, however, as the -story relates, obtaining a victory, peace was concluded, and the kingdom -divided between them. We paid, however, little regard to the supposed -place of this contest, as it was not for us puisne antiquarians to -discuss points on which the greatest historians had so materially -differed. - -The roads round Gloucester have been greatly improved of late years, more -particularly the one to Ross and Hereford, which was hilly, rocky, and -generally dangerous: their texture and surface are now totally changed, -and, winding the hills, the gradual ascent removes both danger and -difficulty; the expense must have been enormous, and the traveller pays -proportionably in turnpike tolls; they are, generally speaking, round -Gloucester and Hereford, the highest in England. Nothing can surpass the -excellence of the road from Gloucester to Bristol, to which conveyances -are constantly going; and to such parties as have not visited that eager -bustling mart of trade, two or three days may be afforded with a -certainty of meeting with the most ample return for the trouble and -expense bestowed. The Church of St. Mary Redcliff, which is both ancient -and beautiful; the Abbey Church or cathedral: the docks; the charities, -and particularly that for teaching the blind to work; the hot wells at -Clifton; St. Vincent’s rocks, and the diminished vessels gliding on the -Avon; the beautiful views, mansions, villas, and pleasure grounds in -every direction in its vicinity, evincing at once the taste and opulence -of its merchants and citizens, but particularly those going to and -returning from King’s Weston, the view of Lord de Clifford’s mansion, and -the varied prospects it commands, as well as those from the park and -plantations, which are open to the public, constantly varying the scenery -on the Avon, Kingroad, and the distant Cambrian Alps, afforded pleasure -so exquisite to my romantic fancy, that for ten times the labour and -expense bestowed, I would not have debarred myself of them. Here most -happily are blended commercial riches and the life of trade with all that -nature’s bounty can bestow to please the fancy or delight the sight. - -The antiquity of Bristol is recorded by Gildas, who has set it down as -one of the principal fortified cities in Britain, when the Romans -abandoned the island in the year 430. But little mention is made of it -again in history till the year 1063, when Harold, the son of Earl Godwin, -embarked from Bristol with an army to wreak his vengeance on Griffith, -King of Wales, who had committed divers aggressions. After sailing along -the coast and landing his men at various points, he reduced the country -to yield obedience to King Edward, and having compelled the Welsh to cut -off the head of their king and give him hostages for their fidelity, he -returned again to England. - -The Castle of Bristol was formerly of great extent and strength, and is -repeatedly mentioned by historians for the gallant defences it has made, -and the noble prisoners it has held in safe custody; but it was not till -the time of Charles the First that it belonged to the city, when being -found to be a harbour and receptacle for rogues and vagabonds, it was -first added to the jurisdiction of the county of the city of Bristol, and -afterwards sold to the mayor and burgesses for 959_l._, to be held under -the manor of East Greenwich in Kent, at the yearly fee-farm rent of -40_l._ - -Both Henry the Second and Henry the Third, during their minorities, were -placed at Bristol as a place of security, at which they might receive -their education. It was here, in the year 1211, that the following -infamous act of tyrannic cruelty was exercised by King John. That -monarch having laid a heavy tax upon all the Jews throughout his -dominions, one of that race, named Abraham, having refused to pay the -tax, was fined in the sum of ten thousand marks; this the obstinate Jew -likewise refused to pay, which so much exasperated the King, that he -commanded one of his teeth to be drawn every day till the sum was paid; -the unfortunate Jew had seven of them taken out of his head, and then -submitted to the payment, rather than lose his last tooth, he having but -one left. - -Bristol sends two members to Parliament; the first regular summons by -writ was issued by King Edward the First, directing that two proper -persons should be sent as its representatives to the Parliament at -Shrewsbury. - -“King Henry the Seventh visited Bristol in 1490, and held his court in -St. Augustine’s Back, when the citizens, willing to shew the King all the -respect they could during his residence, arrayed themselves in their best -clothes; the King thinking some of their wives rather too well dressed -for their station, ordered that every citizen who was worth 20_l._ in -goods, should pay twenty shillings, for that their wives went so -sumptuously apparelled.” - -The present Cathedral was the collegiate church of the monastery of St. -Augustine, originally founded by King Henry the Second, and Robert -Fitzharding, father of Maurice, the first of the Berkeley family. At the -suppression of the monasteries by king Henry the Eighth, after that of -St. Augustine had been destroyed, with the exception of the gate, and the -west end of the collegiate church had begun to share the same fate, the -King changed his mind, and resolved upon erecting it into a bishopric, -directing the church to be repaired, and thenceforth termed the cathedral -church of the holy and undivided Trinity, appointing Paul Bush, rector of -Winterborn, to be the first Bishop, appropriating the revenue of the -suppressed monastery, amounting to 765_l._ 15_s._ 3_d._ per annum, partly -to the bishop and partly to the chapter; consisting of a Dean and six -Prebendaries. He likewise took the county of Dorset from the see of -Salisbury, transferring it to that of Bristol. - -The interior of the Cathedral, though not to be named with those of -Gloucester and Worcester, is still worthy of attention; particularly its -vaulted roof, those of the side aisles, and an emblematic picture of the -Holy Trinity, by Vansomers, over the altar. The windows of the side -aisles, which are of enamelled glass, are said to have been the gift of -Nell Gwynn. - -On the south-west of the cathedral are the cloisters; and at the -south-east corner of the cloisters is the bishop’s palace, which was in -great part rebuilt in 1744, when the following extraordinary circumstance -happened. “A parcel of plate, supposed to have been hidden during the -time of the civil wars, fell through the floor in the corner of one of -the rooms; this accident occasioned the floor to be taken up, when, to -the surprise of those persons present, a dungeon underneath was -discovered, in which were found many human bones, and instruments of iron -for torture; at the same time was laid open a private passage to this -dungeon, which passage was part of the original edifice; it was an arched -way only large enough for one person to pass, and was made within the -wall; one end led to the dungeon, and the other end to an apartment of -the house, which by appearance had been made use of for a court of -judgment. Both the entrances of this mural passage were walled up, and -so concealed, that no one could suspect the wall to be hollow.” - -St. Mary Redcliff Church, which is supposed to be one of the most -beautiful gothic structures for a parish church in England, next merits -attention. The present edifice was erected by William Canning, an -eminent merchant of Bristol, about the year 1456; the foundation having -been commenced by his grandfather of the same name, on the site of the -former church, built by Simon de Burton, in the year 1294. Canning -having been rendered unhappy by the death of his wife, and being pressed -by the King to a second marriage, he took holy orders to avoid an act so -repugnant to his feelings: he was afterwards Dean of Westbury, to which -he was likewise a great benefactor. He died in 1474, and was buried in -the south end of the aisle of this church, in which are two monuments -erected to his memory; in the one he is represented in his magisterial -robes (he having been five times Mayor of Bristol), with his lady by his -side, with a long inscription on two tables. In the other monument he is -habited as a priest. - -The roof, which is of stone, displaying many curious devices, with much -good workmanship, and the lofty pillars which support it, are beautiful; -the interior, which consists of a middle and two side aisles, has a light -and highly pleasing effect, and is generally much admired. The altar is -very elegant and richly decorated, and over it are three capital -paintings by Hogarth. The organ, which is of great size and compass, -contains upwards of one thousand speaking pipes, and for richness of tone -is scarcely to be equalled. It was in a room over the north porch -entrance, in an old chest, that Chatterton, then a youth of seventeen, -gave out that he found the poetical manuscripts, ascribed to Rowley and -others, and said to have been written in the fifteenth century. -Chatterton’s father was sexton of St. Mary’s Redcliff and master of a -charity school in Pile-street, in which school, under a Mr. Love, who -succeeded his father, and at the Colston Blue-coat school, he received -his education. - -The Exchange in Corn-street is a noble building of free-stone highly -finished; it cost upwards of 50,000_l._ The principal front is 110 feet; -it is of the Corinthian order, upon a rustic basement. Next to the -Exchange stands the Post-office, and higher up, on the opposite side of -the street, the Council-house, where the mayor or some other magistrate -sits daily to administer justice, from twelve till two o’clock. - -The charities of this city are numerous and extensive; the Infirmary is a -noble building, situate in Earl-street, St. James’s; it is conducted on -the most liberal plan. - -The port of Bristol has of late years been greatly enlarged and improved, -principally on a plan suggested by the Rev. William Milton, Rector of -Heckfield, Hants; an excellent engineer, and a man of most extensive -mechanical abilities, whose only reward for so great a service rendered -to this wealthy port was a present of a piece of plate; had he rendered -as great a service to the merchants and corporation of Liverpool, he -would most likely have obtained a handsome independence for life; for -although the charities of Bristol speak highly in its favour, still its -high spirit, its hospitality, or its generosity, are not quite so -proverbial as those of Liverpool. - -The Hot-well is distant about a mile and a half to the west of Bristol, -in the parish of Clifton: the water is too well known for its great -efficacy in pulmonary complaints, and cases of general debility, to -require any recapitulation of its virtues, in this slight sketch of the -Hot-well and Clifton. - -As a place of fashionable resort, not only for invalids, but for -pleasure, its beautiful situation, both for walks and rides, the -gentility of the company that frequent it, the easy and well regulated -expense with which persons may with comfort and respectability reside -here, must always ensure it an overflow of company in the season. The -Avon, below St. Vincent’s rocks, is but little wider than it is at -Bristol; but as the spring tides rise from 30 to 36 feet, the heaviest -ships can navigate it at such times. - -St. Vincent’s rocks, overhanging the Avon, afford to the pedestrian, and -particularly to the botanist, an infinity of amusement; a great portion -of the plants, if not peculiar to this spot, are but rarely to be met -with elsewhere. - -These rocks are chiefly composed of a species of chocolate-coloured -marble, bearing a good polish; it is worked into chimney-pieces, &c., -with good effect, the refuse burning into a strong and beautiful white -lime. The reverberation of sound occasioned by the miners blasting these -rocks, and the dreadful crash of the masses thus hurled from their native -beds down the craggy precipices is grand and terrific; it is in the -fissures of the rocks thus opened that those beautiful chrystals, called -Bristol stones, are found. - - - -CLIFTON - - -is one of the most charming villages in England. On every side the views -are beautiful; and although its population is great, still it has not -lost its rural appearance. From the salubrity of the air, numerous -respectable families have taken up their residence in the village and its -vicinity; but these elegant mansions being surrounded by their gardens -and shrubberies, they have prevented the ground from being too much -covered with buildings. - - - -KINGSWESTON, - - -the seat of Lord de Clifford, is about four miles north-west of Bristol. -It is a noble mansion, built by Sir John Vanbrugh, somewhat in his usual -style; but the situation according with the style better than usually -fell to the lot of that architect, it has a grand and noble effect. The -collection of paintings here are by esteemed masters, and very fine; the -gardens, hot-houses, &c. are kept up in very great style. The park, -which is richly wooded and beautifully diversified, offers a rich treat -to the painter; the varied prospects obtained at every turn and opening -of its numerous walks and vistas are as rich and extensive as nature in -this climate can afford. The whole, under very trifling restrictions, -are most kindly and liberally left open by his Lordship, for the public -to enjoy. Kingsweston inn, just above the park, is a comfortable house, -delightfully situated. - -To the west of Kingsweston, on a hill called Penpold, is a -pleasure-house: from this hill, which is of great height, the most -beautiful prospects are to be enjoyed. You look down on that fine sheet -of water, Kingroad and the Severn Sea; commanding alternately views of -Somersetshire, Glamorganshire, and Monmouthshire, with Wales in the back -ground; Gloucestershire and Wiltshire: this with the bustle of the -shipping in the nearer sea view, so engage the attention, that time flies -unheeded by. - -From hence proceed to Shirehampton, a pleasing village, leading to a good -inn, called Lamplighters’ hall, a place of considerable resort, during -the summer months, to witness the busy scene at the mouth of the Avon: it -is situated close to high water-mark, on the bank of the river, opposite -to Pill or Crockern Pill, where is a Custom-house, at which all vessels -leaving the port of Bristol are obliged to take their last clearance in -going out, and from which they are furnished with pilots inwards. The -ride from hence, when the tides are not too high, over turf to the mouth -of the Avon, is very fine. The house is built purposely to enjoy the -busy scene which the river and Kingroad here present; and its -accommodations are remarkably good, and the charges reasonable. - -Frenchhay, in Gloucestershire, is about four miles north-east of Bristol; -the drive this way is beautiful, from the numerous noblemen and -gentlemens’ seats and highly cultivated grounds, which occupy both sides -of the road. It was here, during the war, that the great depôt of French -prisoners was established. - -At the east end of the common is a remarkable lusus naturæ, which was -taken out of a stone quarry at Downend; its form is an entire perfect -muscle, consisting of the upper and under shell, which are closed -together; its weight is nearly two tons. - -Bristol is but one stage from either the Old or New Passage; it is eleven -miles to the New, and nine to the Old. The mail and most of the coaches -pass their passengers, &c. by the New Passage, as saving a stage on the -Milford road. Chaises or horses are generally charged at the rate of -twelve miles to either. - -At Aust (or the Old Passage) it is about two miles over to Beachley, in -the parish of Tidenham, Gloucestershire. This is the direct way to -Chepstow, Newent, and all the forest of Dean, Herefordshire, -Worcestershire, and the upper part of Monmouthshire. - -At the New Passage, it is about three miles over at high water to Port -Skewith, near St. Pierre in Monmouthshire. When the wind is S.E. or -N.W., it is directly across the river, therefore you must be at the -passage where you intend to cross, an hour before high water, as they can -only go over then, and that but once, there being no passage during the -flood or ebb. - -Should the traveller have before visited Bristol, or decline this -excursion, he will find the walk from Gloucester to - - - -WESTBURY - - -is by no means uninteresting; the distance eight miles and three -quarters, through Highnam and Minsterworth; the country is studded with -half-seen villas, and animated with churches, whilst the retrospect -commands a fine view of Robin Hood’s hill, with the dark tower of -Gloucester cathedral, just rising in the perspective. - -At Westbury is the seat of Maynard Colchester, Esq. The church, with a -detached spire, stands close to the house. Near this place mineralogists -will be highly gratified by visiting a cliff, called Garden, or Golden -Cliff; which is most beautifully encrusted with mundic and crystals. -This rock, standing close to the Severn, is only accessible at the reflux -of the tide: and when illuminated by the sun wears a most beautiful -appearance. - -Between Westbury and Newnham, in an extremely delightful valley, -bordering on the forest of Dean, is situate - - - -FLAXLEY ABBEY, - - -the seat of Sir Thomas Crawley Bovey. This valley was formerly called -Castiard, or the Happy Valley; and a monastery for Cistercian monks was -founded here by Roger, the second Earl of Hereford, and the charter -confirmed by King Henry II. The abbey was standing till the year 1777, -when part of it was unfortunately consumed by fire; since that a -considerable portion of building has been added, and it is become a very -desirable summer residence. The views from the park, behind the house, -are very extensive, commanding the vale of Gloucester, and the river -Severn, gay with vessels; whilst the extensive forest of Dean, and -Flaxley Abbey, form nearer objects for admiration. This wood abounds -with the most charming walks; and while it affords refreshing shelter -from a summer’s sun, admits partial views of the adjacent country. -Camden, in speaking of the forest of Dean, derives its name from Ardene, -a wood, in the Gaulic and British languages. It lies between the two -rivers Severn and Wye, and contains thirty thousand acres. The soil is -well adapted for the growth of oaks and forest timber; and the situation -particularly commodious for exporting it for ship-building, and other -purposes. The immense quantities of wood annually felled for the use of -the navy have so thinned this forest of its timber, that it is now -preserved till a certain growth, by act of parliament. Camden observes, -that the oak of this forest was so considerable, that the Spanish armada -had orders to destroy the timber of it in the year 1588. It suffered -considerably in the great rebellion. - -The iron manufactory has long been carried on in this forest; and to this -day immense beds of iron cinders are found, the reliques of the Romans. -These cinders are not half exhausted of their ore, and are consequently -worked over again: a proof that the Romans knew only the weak power of -the foot blast. As we drew near - - - -NEWNHAM - - -the Severn became more considerable. The town, situated on the banks of -the river, and backed by the forest of Dean, is very ancient, and in the -year 1018, this manor was granted by King Canute to the Benedictine abbey -of Pershore, in Worcestershire. {25} The churchyard affords a variety of -objects worthy the attention of the passing stranger, amongst which the -church of Westbury forms the most conspicuous feature in the landscape. -The view, previous to our descending the hill to - - - -LIDNEY - - -is extensive and beautiful. In this place iron-works are carried on by -Mr. Pitchcock. About a mile from Lidney, the Old Passage,—King’s Road, -with the merchant ships lying off Bristol,—Gloucestershire and -Somersetshire hills, studded with gentlemen’s seats, churches, and -half-seen cottages, form a cheerful landscape. - - - -CHEPSTOW. - - -The weather prevented our seeing the celebrated walks of Piercefield, but -we promised ourselves the pleasure of visiting them on our return down -the Wye. The castle of Chepstow, called Cagwent, or Castell Gwent, -stands on a rock washed by the river Wye, near its influx into the -Severn. Topographical writers differ in their accounts concerning the -antiquity of the castle, but it is generally supposed to have been built -at the same time with the town, appearing at that period to have been a -kind of citadel to Chepstow. {26} The castle was formerly of great -extent, as, according to Leland’s account, the “waulles began at the end -of the great bridge over Wy,” yet, “in the castel ys one tower, as I have -heard say, by the name of Langine.” Little now remains of its former -grandeur: but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended the -decayed steps of the tower, from whence the eye traced with pleasure the -windings of the Wye, till it was at last lost in conjunction with the -Severn. We examined the apartments in which Henry Marten, one of the -regicides, who sat to condemn King Charles I., was confined twenty years. - -Grand views of the Bristol Channel still continued to form interesting -objects from the road; but about three miles from Chepstow, we turned -into some fields on the right, to examine the ivy-mantled walls of - - - -CALDECOT CASTLE. - - -On our first entrance, we gazed with that rapt astonishment, which fears -to disturb, or be disturbed, by the mutual communication of thought. Mr. -Warner, in his survey of this ruin, was much disappointed; but I cannot -help allowing, although the view from it was inferior to Chepstow, that -its antiquated walls wear a nobler appearance; and the gloom that reigns -around it forces a sigh, and evinces the transitory nature of sublunary -greatness. The antiquity of the building is very obscure. Passing -through the village of Caldecot, we soon entered - - - -CAERWENT, - - -on the western side, through the broken fragments of its walls, of which -one immense mass has recently fallen. This ancient town is now a -village, with a few scattered cottages, but was formerly celebrated, -under the auspices of Agricola, for its temples, theatre, porticoes, and -baths; few vestiges of its former splendour are now extant. A few -fragments of loose stones only remain to point out its former extent. In -an orchard, adjoining a farm-house belonging to Mr. Lewis, is the -beautiful tesselated Roman pavement, discovered in the year 1777. The -tesseræ or dies, about an inch in breadth, and half in depth, are nearly -square, consisting of four colours, red, yellow, blue, and white, {27} -which are still in great preservation; the whole is surrounded with a -border, much resembling a Turkey carpet. The daily depredations on these -curious remains of antiquity are greatly to be lamented. - -In the road from Caerwent, amongst other objects for admiration, the -mansion of Sir Robert Salusbury, on the left, commanding an extensive -view, attracted our notice. Passing through the neat village of -Christ-church, animated with white-washed cottages, and graced with its -simple church, which stands on an eminence, we left the turnpike-road at -the thirteenth mile-stone; and following a footpath through some fields, -near the banks of the Usk, soon entered the ancient city of Caerleon. - - - -CAERLEON - - -has been celebrated in all ages of British History. It was a Roman city -of great power, strength, and importance, under the name of _Isca -Silurum_, and their chief station in the country of the _Silures_; and -equally, and perhaps still more known, for having been King Arthur’s seat -of government: a prince, equally renowned in history, chivalry, and -poetry. This city was formerly a metropolitan see, but Saint David, the -national saint of Wales, thinking the noisy intercourse of a populous -city, like Caerleon, ill adapted for contemplation, or the solitary cast -of his mind, removed it to Minevia, which from that period has been -called Ty Dewi by the Welch, and Saint David by the English. {28} The -remains of its ancient grandeur are still discernible. Whilst tracing -the extent of its amphitheatre, surrounded by a circular entrenchment, we -took a retrospect on the exertions of man, the fate of kingdoms, and of -rulers; and, marking the grand destruction of ages, it seemed to convince -us of the transientness of human worth and happiness! - -Re-ascending Christ-church hill we had a fine view of the county of -Monmouth like a map beneath us. Near - - - -NEWPORT - - -a new stone bridge has been erected by contract for ten thousand one -hundred and sixty-five pounds, by Mr. Edwards, son to the Edwards who -built the famous Pont-y-pridd. It consists of five arches. - -The commerce and population of this town are greatly increased of late -years. As a sea-port it is safe; its chief trade is in iron and coal. -The Monmouthshire Canal communicates here by a basin with the Usk river, -and by that means with the Bristol Channel; and as the Monmouthshire -Canal again communicates with the Brecon Canal and the Avon, Ebwy and -other rail roads, Newport becomes the grand depôt for the heavier -articles of trade of that part of the interior of South Wales. The -Crumlin bridge branch is eleven miles five furlongs, its falls three -hundred and sixty-five feet. Pontypool, eleven miles, falls four hundred -and forty-seven feet. Brecknock, thirty-seven miles seven furlongs. - -A circuitous, but more romantic route from Chepstow to Newport, is -re-crossing the Wye, passing over the forest of Dean, through Saint -Briaval’s to Monmouth. The road is not bad, but narrow; if travelling -with a carriage, it will be necessary to be provided with a horn, which, -upon your sounding, if you find answered, you must wait till the party so -answering comes past. - -The views to the right over the Severn and Gloucestershire are most rich -and extensive, and those from the summits of the overhanging rocks of the -Wye, awful and terrific: before you reach Monmouth the country becomes -thickly inhabited, which the beautiful situations it affords readily -accounts for; and from Monmouth to Ragland and Usk the same continues to -be the case. - - - -RAGLAND CASTLE, - - -one of the finest ruins in Wales, (for although Monmouthshire is now an -English county, it formerly was Welch,) stands near the village of that -name: it may be pleasantly and leisurely viewed in the day, with Usk and -Caerleon, affording time to reach Newport. - -The first view of it is considerably impeded by the surrounding trees, -but the closer inspection presents such a mass of ruin as well proves its -ancient strength and grandeur. From the citadel, which lies to the south -of the main building, the communication was by a drawbridge over the -moat, by which it was surrounded; it was a hexagon, apparently five -stories high, and of much strength, with bastions. - -Round the citadel were raised walks, and in the walls are small recesses. -A stone staircase still remains, leading to the top of one of the towers, -from which not only the ruins, but the adjacent country, are viewed to -much advantage. The two courts of the castle both communicate with the -terrace. - -The main entrance is magnificent, much overhung with ivy; the gothic -portal is defended by two massive towers, and the building being faced -with hewn free-stone, exhibits a less desolate aspect than it would -otherwise do. The whole range of offices and apartments appears to have -been on a splendid scale, and the building shows various specimens of -architecture, from the time of Henry the Fifth to that of Charles the -First. - -The large banqueting hall divides the two courts; it still retains the -arms of the Marquis of Worcester, with the motto “Mutare vel timere -sperno.” - -During the civil wars, Henry, first Marquis of Worcester, several times -afforded a refuge to Charles the First, but at length, when that -monarch’s fortune was past retrieving, Ragland Castle, after having been -various times summoned by detachments of the Parliamentary forces, was -regularly invested and taken by Sir Thomas Fairfax; a window is still -shewn through which a girl in the garrison, by waving a handkerchief, -introduced his troops. The aged marquis was sent prisoner to London, -where he died in the 85th year of his age, and his property having been -confiscated, and the castle dismantled, it became a prey to his own -tenantry, who pulled it down for the sake of the materials, but more -particularly for the staircases, of which they removed above twenty. - -At the Restoration, this, with other estates, was restored to the family, -but in such a state of ruin, that being considered unworthy their -repairing, it was left as an object of pillage to the vicinity, which it -has but lately, since its ruins have become venerable, ceased from being. -It appertains to the noble house of Beaufort. - -The library, which was here destroyed by the mad fanatic soldiery of -Cromwell, is greatly to be regretted, as it possessed Welch manuscripts -of great importance; the collection was very large, and the loss not to -be estimated, many being unique. - -The domain appertaining to this princely residence was very extensive, -and well arranged, and in Ragland Church are still to be seen the -vestiges of splendid memorials erected for Marquises of Worcester, and -other noble personages. - - - -USK, or CASTRUM ISCA, - - -which is the next place of note on the route, is believed to be the -Burrium of the Romans. It was formerly a place of much note; its -situation is low, but capable of being rendered most beautiful, its -surrounding scenery holding forth the most tempting lures to improve -nature by art, at a trifling expense. - -The Usk is here become a noble river, and its fish, particularly its -salmon, are held in the highest estimation. Along the river is a -beautiful walk to the ruins of the castle, from which you gain a fine -view of the town, and the surrounding slopes and heights, and in few -places is to be seen so large a body of clear water, in so expanded and -rapid a stream. At the time of our visit it was not the season for -fishing, but I must confess, I sighed to leave it behind me. To the -fly-fisher few places hold forth such inducements to settle as Usk. I -fancied myself in a Swiss valley where I could cultivate my vines, my -lavender, and my roses, supply my table with exquisite fish and game, -enjoy pure air, and a fine climate. - -The best and pleasantest road to Caerleon is over the bridge to -Llanbaddock, three furlongs; by Llangibby Castle, and Llangibby, one mile -two furlongs; to Lanhenock, three miles; Caerleon, two miles fseven -furlongs; Newport, five miles. - - - -CAERLEON - - -boasts numerous inducements to stay the progress of the antiquary; it is -by some called the Isca Augusta, or Isca Colonia of the Romans, and was a -principal garrison, being the head quarters or main station of the second -Augustan legion, having under it numerous other stations. - -Mr. Cox states the shape of this ancient city to be an oblong square, -three sides straight, the fourth curved; the south angle is near the end -of the Round Table field, where the walls are nearly twelve feet thick; -the south-west side passes the amphitheatre parallel to the Usk; the -walls are again to be traced by the Broadway along the Benhouse field; -the west angle runs alongside the Malpas road; on this flank a gateway -leads to Goldcroft common; the north angle forms part of a stable in the -New Inn yard, is again visible in the Castle yard, and turns the east -angle near a rail-road by the Castle ditch; hence the line curves again, -touches on the foss of the Castle, passes through gardens, &c. and is -lost in a lane near the quay till it again becomes discernible near the -south angle. The circumference of the walls, in which there appear to -have been four gates, one in the centre of each flank, was about 1800 -feet. - -It was a station of the Prætor, and its splendid palaces, its stately -edifices and gilded roofs, might, according to Giraldus Cambrensis’ -exaggerated account, have vied with those of Rome itself; its baths, its -aqueducts, its stoves, and proofs of ancient grandeur, were even in his -time amply displayed in their ruins; numerous are the coins that have -been here collected, and the riches this spot has afforded to the -cabinets of the curious. - -Between Caerleon and Newport is St. Julians, once the residence of Lord -Herbert of Cherbury: the walk to it in fine weather is pleasant, and -although now converted into a farmhouse, traces of its former -respectability are evident. In a small barn near to it are likewise to -be seen the remains of St. Julian’s abbey. According to some accounts, -such was the extent of Caerleon in the days of its grandeur, that it -extended as far as Christ Church and this place, and covered a tract of -country nine miles in circumference. - -Ascending the Gam, the ships in the Bristol Channel, with the islands -Flat and Steep Holmes rising in the midst of the sea, and the shores of -Somerset and Devon, formed pleasing objects in the distant view, whilst -the mellow green of nearer woods and meadows, watered by the Usk, made a -combination of views gay and beautiful. - -Newport Castle, standing on the bank of the river Usk, is a small -distance from the bridge: it evidently appears to have been once a place -of considerable extent, and built for the defence of the passage over the -river; three strong towers commanded the Usk, but towards the town, a -common wall, without any flanks, seems to have been its sole defence. -Some of the windows still remain, the relics of Gothic architecture, and -appear to have been elegantly decorated. From the tower is a fine view -of the Usk. Between Newport and - - - -CARDIFF - - -we crossed the little stream of Ebwith, near the Park of Tredegar House, -belonging to Sir Charles Morgan. The grounds are well planned, and -command the hills of Machen and Twynbarlwm, with the Church of Bassaleg -rising in the centre, on an eminence. The whole valley, indeed, lies -prettily. Passing through the villages of Pediston and Castletown, we -soon reached the bridge of two arches, over the river Romney, which -divides England from Wales. - -The situation of Cardiff is on a low flat, near the mouth of the Taff, -over which is a bridge, built by Mr. Parry, in the year 1796: it consists -of three large and two smaller arches. The tower of the Church is very -light, and of elegant workmanship; but there is nothing in the inside -worthy of notice. - -The Castle derives its name from the river Taff, which washes its walls; -Caertaph signifying the town or castle upon Taff. Robert Fitzham, on -having conquered Glamorganshire, divided the country into different -portions, among twelve Norman knights, as a reward for their service, -took for his own share the town of Cardiff, and erected, in the year -1110, this Castle, in which he generally resided, and held his court of -chancery and exchequer. In the beginning of May, 1645, during the -troubles under King Charles I., it was in the possession of the -Royalists, but it was surrendered to the Parliament before August, 1646. - -We entered the Castle by two strong gates, which still remain in great -preservation, but we were displeased with the modern architecture of the -new-built mansion; the neat shorn grass and the gravel walk were -circumstances that ill accorded with the mutilated walls of an ancient -ruin, which has braved the storms of so many centuries. The circumstance -which tends to insure this castle a melancholy place in history, is the -unjust confinement of Robert, Duke of Normandy, brother to William Rufus, -and King Henry I. The accounts, however, of his confinement have been -greatly exaggerated by historians; but a dark vaulted room beneath the -level of the ground, measuring nearly a square of fifteen feet and a -half, is still pointed out as the place of his confinement; a small -crevice in the top, about half a yard in length, and three inches wide, -was the only place to admit the air. In this situation he died, after an -imprisonment of twenty-six years, and was buried in Gloucester Cathedral, -where his effigy, as large as life, carved in Irish oak, and painted, is -yet shown. - -The Keep, which is still very perfect, of an octagon shape, stands on an -eminence in the centre of a large square. Having walked round the -ramparts, which command extensive views of the adjacent country, we -visited the Castle itself, which has within these few years been -repaired, but still remains in an unfinished state. - -In the dining-room are some portraits, in length, of the Windsor family: -the most striking are, Sir William, who first raised forces for Queen -Mary. Sir Edward, who first entered the breach, at the taking of St. -Quintin, in Flanders, where the famous constable De Montmorency was taken -prisoner. - -In the breakfast parlour is a family piece, consisting of seven figures: -it was painted in the year 1568. Holbein, I rather imagine, was the -painter: it consists of two sisters playing at cards, and two brothers at -drafts, with Edward, Earl of Windsor, and his lady, looking on. The -style is stiff, with ruffs, small black caps and feathers. - -Andrew Windsor, to the right of the fire-place; general _Kneller_. -in the reign of Queen Anne, serving in the -twenty-eighth regiment of foot -Thomas Windsor to the left, who served in several wars _Kneller_. -of William and Queen Anne, and was colonel of the third -regiment of Dragoon guards, in the reign of King George -I. -Lady Ursula Windsor _Kneller_. -Hon. Master Windsor _Unknown_. -A good painting of Ursula, Countess of Windsor, with _Kneller_. -her grand-daughter Ursula Windsor -Thomas, Lord Windsor, governor of Jamaica. _Vandyke_. -Hon. Charlotta Windsor _Dahl_. -Hon. Ursula Windsor _Ibid_. -Hon. Dixia Windsor, storekeeper of the ordnance, and for six -successive parliaments member for Cambridge. - -This Castle belongs to the Marquis of Bute. In this place, Robert, Earl -of Gloucester, founded a priory of White Friars, and another of Black, -which continued till the reign of King Henry VIII. Only the shell of the -White Friars is now extant, and the ruins of the Black Friars are -inhabited by fishermen. It has only one church, which is of Norman -architecture, with a rich and handsome west door, and an elegant tower. - -The races at Cardiff, in October, are very good, and with the balls, are -frequented by a brilliant display of beauty and fashion; the ordinaries -are likewise well attended by the principal nobility and gentry of the -country, and are very good. - -From Cardiff we walked to inspect the remains of the once celebrated city -of - - - -LLANDAFF. - - -The ruins of the old Cathedral are very beautiful; the door-cases are all -Norman architecture, elegantly moulded; two of which, on the north and -south sides, are fine specimens of that order. All the other parts are -Gothic: the nave is unroofed. Within these ruins we entered the -Cathedral, which carries with it more the appearance of a modern theatre -than a place of divine worship, so erroneous was the taste of the -architect, in combining with the sacred Gothic a fantastical work of his -own. Among several ancient monuments, are two very elegant ones of the -Mathews family, {38a} whose descendants own the site of the bishop’s -castle, of which only the gate remains: the rest, with the archdeacon’s -house, was destroyed by Owen Glendour. {38b} There are likewise the -monuments of two Bishops, with another, and the figure of Lady Godiva, -full length, carved in marble on it. - -The present cathedral was built by Bishop Urban, about the year 1107: its -length is two hundred and sixty-three feet and a half, breadth sixty-five -feet, and height one hundred and nineteen feet; like Bangor, it has no -cross aisle. - -Near this city is the rural village and the castle of St. Fajans, -celebrated for a sanguinary battle, fought in its vicinity between the -Royalists and Republicans, during the Protectorate of Cromwell, in which -the former were defeated with the loss of nearly the whole of their -troops. Llandaff, although it ranks as an episcopal city, and was one of -the first places in the British dominions in which a religious -establishment was founded, boasting the erection of its first church A.D. -186, is now little better than a village dependant on Cardiff for its -supplies: even its clergy find few inducements to draw their attention to -it, beyond what duty requires: they possess a chapter-room, kitchen, and -office for the Proctor-general, yet seldom meet more than once a year for -the audit. - -Llandaff stands on a small eminence, commanding a view of Cardiff and the -surrounding country.—We returned again to Cardiff, and the first six -miles of our road to - - - -CAERPHILY - - -were not very interesting, till ascending Thorn Hill, the beauties of the -vale below, with the Flat and Steep Holmes rising in the distant -prospect, the ruins of Cardiff Castle, and the ivy-mantled walls of -Llandaff cathedral, amply compensated for the trouble of climbing this -eminence. A little farther on, Caerphily Castle burst upon our sight, -and - - —“seemed to frown - In awful majesty on all around.” - -The founder, and the time of its erection, are very uncertain; but I -refer my readers to the first volume of the _Archæologia_; to an -ingenious Dissertation, by Daines Barrington, where it is satisfactorily -proved to have been the work of King Edward I. This castle is one of the -noblest ruins of ancient architecture now remaining in the kingdom, and -exceeds all in bigness, except that of Windsor. The hall and the chapel -may still be traced; the former measures about seventy feet in length, -thirty-four in breadth, and seventeen in height. The roof is vaulted -about eight feet high, and supported by twenty arches. On the north side -is a chimney ten feet wide, with two windows on each side, extending down -to the floor, and carried above the supposed height of this room. At -each angle was originally a round tower of four stories, communicating -with each other by a gallery. On the west side of the hall stairs is a -low round tower, of one story, called the Mint-house, with three painted -arches on the south side, and a square well on the west. The leaning -tower, towards the east end, more particularly engaged our notice: it is -divided into two separate parts by a large fissure, which runs from the -top down almost to the middle. Its lineal projection is supposed to be -on the outer side about eleven feet and a half. On the west and north -are visible vestiges of a draw-bridge. - -The east wall, on the south side of the principal entrance, is fluted -between the buttresses, with battlements on their tops, to protect the -intermediate walls. - -This castle was that to which the Spensers retired in the reign of Edward -II. but being taken, there were discovered within the walls, 2,000 fat -oxen, 12,000 cows, 25,000 calves, 30,000 fat sheep, 600 horses, 2,000 fat -hogs; besides 2,000 beeves, 600 sheep, and 1,000 hogs salted: 200 tons of -wine, 40 tons of cider, and wheat for 2,000 men for four years. - -We now came to the celebrated - - - -VALE OF GLAMORGAN, - - -so justly styled the Garden of South Wales: the rapid Taff forms an -almost continued uproar for many miles; on the opposite side the -mountains rose almost perpendicularly in a massy wall, and sometimes to -the water’s edge, finely clothed with wood. Every circumstance conspired -to heighten the solitary grandeur of the scene, and to prolong the -luxurious melancholy which the views inspired. In this celebrated vale -is found the famous Pont-y-prid, or New Bridge, about three quarters of a -mile from the Duke of Bridgewater’s Arms. This wonderful bridge of one -arch is the segment of a circle; the chord of it is one hundred and forty -feet, and the height of the key-stone from the spring of the arch, -thirty-two feet and a half. It was erected in the year 1750, by William -Edwards, a country mason, who failed in his attempt three times, till he -lightened the abutments; it has resisted for many years the torrents of -the Taff. - -This bridge, which in its present state is nearly useless, might, at a -very trifling expense, be made as useful as it is wonderful; but the -river, which is at most times fordable, renders this perhaps unnecessary. -Till this bridge was erected, the Rialto at Venice was esteemed the -largest arch in Europe; its span or chord being ninety-eight feet: but -this bridge is forty-two feet wider; being, it is supposed, the largest -arch in the world. - -Wales is generally remarkable for its white-washed cottages, the origin -of which custom is attributed to Glamorganshire: the cleanliness, as far -as this county is concerned, is chiefly on the outside; but so great is -their attachment to lime white, that even the stone garden-wall, the -pig-sty, or any stone within moderate distance of the cottage, receives -its due share of attention; in some parts even the blue slate roof, which -to the eyes of an Englishman forms a happy contrast to the whitened wall, -is offensive to the eyes of the Welsh, and the roof undergoes the same -process as the walls. - -The intrusion of art in this romantic valley, where nature has been so -lavish of her beauties, is much to be lamented. A canal, for the purpose -of conveying the iron from the Merthyr works to Cardiff, renders that a -place of frequent business and confusion, which was originally so well -adapted to retirement and reflection. - -Not only the road from hence to Merthyr, but all the way from Cardiff to -that place, the road is esteemed amongst the best in Wales; the views -along it are likewise such as to keep the attention alive, nature and art -combining to give effect: in one place the rapid Taff is seen breaking -its way through the woody cliffs, to the lowest level of the vale, and in -the next instant the boats are seen navigating the canal, which winds its -course most strangely round the mountain’s brow, three hundred feet above -the current of the Taff. - -Long before you reach Merthyr, the blackened atmosphere points out the -site; but when immediately upon it, you are obliged to inquire where it -is, and the way to it: from Cardiff you approach it by the Plymouth -works, belonging to Mr. Hill: these lie wide and scattered, and are still -extending, the road passing through them for a considerable distance; -they are altogether worked by water, forming various fine falls from the -same source, viz. the Taff. - -After passing these, you appear entering on an extended suburb to a large -town; but the town itself is nowhere visible: it is without form or -order; in short, to get to your inn you can scarcely find your way along -the main road; for to dignify it with the name of street, is more than it -merits; yet here is collected together a larger and more bustling -population than any other town in the principality can boast; its markets -are large, well attended, and more than reasonable; its shopkeepers are -numerous and thriving; and all that seems to be required to make this -town one of the most respectable in the principality is a little -attention to order and cleanliness: the lower classes, it is true, are -miserably poor; still, even about the iron-works, there are so many -better provided for, and so much money is monthly put into circulation, -that but little trouble would be wanted to make it assume the appearance, -as well as enjoy the reality, of being a populous busy town of trade. - -The largest works at Merthyr are the Cyfartha, belonging to Mr. Crawshay: -these now consist of six blast furnaces, and two near the town, with -fineries, air and puddling furnaces, mill forges, &c. in proportion. The -blast is furnished by a steam engine of eighty-horse power and an immense -overshot water-wheel, fifty feet in diameter, by seven feet in width: -this wheel rests on gudgeons, which weigh one hundred tons: it consumes -about twenty-five tons of water per minute; part of the water is brought -a considerable distance along a trough supported by stone pillars; the -rest is furnished from the Taff. - -The gudgeons of all the wheels, and of such parts of the machine where -there is any friction, have water continually running over them, to -prevent their taking fire. It is the particular office of one man to -grease every part of the machine whilst in motion; to accomplish which, -he is frequently obliged to ride on an iron bar, similar to the lever of -a pump when in motion, a considerable way from the ground. The whole of -this machinery is worked by water, not more than a foot deep, which is -conveyed by a long spout to the top of the wheel, where it discharges -itself. The ore, lime-stone, and coals, which they use to promote the -fusion of the ore, are all found on the spot. The ore, previous to its -being thrown into the furnace, is burnt in a common lime-pit; the -goodness of it is afterwards proved, by its adhesion to the tongue: the -coal is all charked, and continually put into the furnace with certain -proportions of ore. From the pigs, the iron is rolled into flat plates -by a cylinder; this is performed with the greatest despatch. The gaunt -figures of the workmen excite both pity and terror, and the sallow -countenances and miserable air of the people prove it is a labour very -prejudicial to their health. - -Mr. Crawshay employs upwards of five thousand men in his works only; but -to form an estimate of the numbers employed, and the produce of iron -afforded, I subjoin the following list of the principal works in the -vales from Abergavenny to Neath, each furnace producing, on an average, -from forty-five to seventy tons of iron per week. The two large -furnaces, belonging to Messrs. Crawshay, near to Merthyr, are said to -have furnished, for a short period, upwards of one hundred tons each per -week. - - -FURNACES. - -Clydac, or Llanelly (in the parish of latter) -Freer 2 furnaces -Blenavon, Hill 4 -The Varteg 2 -Nant eglo, Bayley 4 -Beaufort, Kendal 3 -Ebro Vale, Harford 2 -Sirhowy, Harford 2 -Tredegar, S. Homfray and Co. 5 -Romney, Mrs. Hall 2 -Dowlass, Guest and Co. 8 -Penydarran, Forman and Thompson 5 -Cyfartha, Crawshays 8 -Plymouth, R. I. and A. Hill 5 -Aberdare, formerly Thompson and Scales, now Scales 3 -and Co. -Abernant, ditto, Tappendens 1 -Hirwaen 2 -Myers and company, four miles short of Neath, charcoal furnace, &c. - -The immense collections of cinder, or refuse from the ore, astonish the -beholder: it appears almost incredible, that the labour of man could -transport such quantities of materials; but when, added to this, you -reflect that nearly the whole has passed through the furnaces, and been -moved two or three times, how much is the wonder increased! In short, to -witness what immense capitals, indefatigable industry, and human -ingenuity can accomplish, in dragging forth the bowels of the earth, the -vales of the Taff from Brecon to Cardiff, and the very numerous vales -running parallel with the Taff, betwixt Abergavenny and Neath, should be -explored, both above ground, and in the mines; the value of the inclined -planes and rail-roads only would be immense. - -About three miles to the north-east of Merthyr are the remains of Castle -Morlais, an extensive and singular ruin: it was originally a British -post, afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, in the reign of -Edward I., and the source of a quarrel betwixt that nobleman and Humphrey -de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, which brought down the anger of the monarch -on both their heads to such extent, as to subject them to fine and -imprisonment: it was so completely destroyed by the Parliamentary army in -the seventeenth century, that its form and extent are difficult to trace; -a small keep, or look-out, on the most elevated part of its site, still, -however, remains: its upper story is much dilapidated; and the walls as -well as roof nearly destroyed, except the door-way and window, which are -of freestone: from the top of one of these the view of the Black -Mountains, &c. is most extensive: the lower apartment (part of the -vaulted roof of which has at length yielded to time, and the injuries of -the animals who have resorted to the upper apartment for shelter) has -once been curious; the arches, twelve in number, which supported its roof -sprang from a pillar in the centre; the rib of the arch is freestone, and -shows good masonry; the wall is likewise rubbed stone, part of which has -been defaced, apparently to see if it communicated with any other part of -the castle, or contained any thing worthy the searching for. The -pleasantest way for an active person to ascend to this ruin, is at the -bridge above the Cyfartha works, to take the right bank, ascending the -little Taff: for some distance you pass along the quarries, and at length -reach a path cut through the woods, along the banks of this romantic -stream: the termination of the path obliges you to incline to the right, -and passing two fields, you begin to ascend the hill between a stone wall -and extensive lime-stone quarries, belonging to the Pendarren works. The -ascent is steep; but if fine, you are amply repaid, on reaching the -summit, by the extensive views you command. Dowlass works, which, as -well as Cyfartha, have eight furnaces, are seen from here to great -advantage. The descent to Merthyr, along the rail-road from the -lime-stone quarries you passed in ascending, is easy and pleasant, -running alongside the beautiful grounds of Mr. Forman, formerly belonging -to Mr. S. Homfray, and which a former tourist describes as containing all -of elegance or comfort that Merthyr can boast of. From hence we -travelled the road to Pont Neath Vechan, the first part of which is -hilly, rough, and through a barren country; but the latter half is rich -in scenery, sublime and awful, from pendent rocks and gushing cataracts, -and worthy the time and observation of the admirer of nature’s beauties. - - - -PONT NEATH VECHAN. - - -About a mile and a half from Vechan we unexpectedly descended by an -excellent road through a wood into a rich romantic valley, watered by -Neath river. In this retired situation we found the Angel inn, of Pont -Neath Vechan. Description can scarcely suggest the full grandeur and -magnificence of this valley: woods, rocks, and waterfalls, all unite to -render it beautiful. Our Cicerone first conducted us to the fall of -Scotenogam, on the river Purthen, about a mile and a half from the house. -This fall we saw to great advantage: the river, having gathered in its -course the accumulation of many torrents after the rain, precipitated -itself into one majestic expanse of water, near seventy feet high; whilst -the dark lowering rocks, on each side, contrasted finely with the varied -vegetation around us. The descent is by no means easy; but the grandeur -of the scene amply compensated for all difficulties. Our Cicerone next -conducted us to a very inferior one, called the Lady’s Cascade, on the -river Neath; but of this we caught a very indifferent prospect, the -ascent of the mountain being inaccessible, and the water too high to -admit of our obtaining a due inspection of it. We then returned to our -inn, and set out on a different road, in quest of nature’s -landscapes.—Having walked about three miles, we heard the angry roar of -small cascades; these we considered preludes to scenes of nature’s -grandest cast, where the rushing waterfall swells into a torrent; and -accordingly we soon found ourselves near the fall of Lower Culhepste. -The character of this cataract differs very much from that of Scotenogam; -being broken in its descent from projecting rocks, of an immense size. -About a quarter of a mile from hence we descended a rugged and steep -rock, to examine the fall of Upper Culhepste, about fifty feet high. The -singularity of this fall invites the curiosity of the traveller more than -any other in Wales: the whole river precipitates itself with such -violence, as to leave a space between the rock and the fall sufficiently -wide for a horse-path. Though in less than two minutes we were -completely wet by the spray, yet the effect was awful and sublime; and it -was necessary to remember the fixed foundation of the rocks above our -heads, to soften the awe they inspired. “The effect of sunshine on the -cascade,” says Mr. Malkin, “when behind it on a fine day, is both grand -and beautiful. The particles of water glittering with a silvery -brightness, as they fall; the uncommon brilliancy of every thing without, -seen through such a medium, contrasted with the dark green of the moss, -everlastingly wet with spray; the corroded dinginess of the rock; the -damp and vaporous gloom of the atmosphere within; altogether form a -singularly mingled scene of awe and gaiety.” - -Near this fall is Porthogo Cavern, through which the river Vendre runs. -The water was too high to admit our entrance; our conductor, however, -informed us he had penetrated about half a mile, but found the river wind -so many ways, he judged it safer to return, lest he should share the fate -of a poor man, who lost himself in this cavern for the space of three -days. On our return a very intelligent gentleman, staying in the -neighbourhood, strenuously recommended us to descend a steep mountain, on -our left, to survey a curious quadrangular strata of marble in the rock -below. With some difficulty we effected our purpose, having waded twice -through the river. This strata in Welsh is called _bwr maen_, which -signifies a stone bow: it is situated close to the river Dynnas, which, -forcing its way through some broken fragments of the rock, forms a -cascade a little above. The price offered for this grey marble, in -London, is fifteen shillings a foot square. - -About five miles from Vechan, is the seat of Mrs. Holbrow, on the right. -We were prevented visiting the waterfalls of Melincourt and Aperdulas, -the river, owing to the late floods, being too deep to ford. Our route -still continued through the valley we had so much admired the evening -before. As we drew near - - - -NEATH, - - -the tower of Knole Castle had a pleasing effect from a distance: it was -built by Sir Herbert Mackworth, and is at present in the possession of H. -I. Grant, Esq. The windows from the banqueting-room command a circle of -many miles in diameter, composed of Neath valley and river, with the -smoky town of Neath—the Mumbles’ Point—Swansea, and the Channel. The -artificial cascade is well contrived; but, after the foaming torrents of -Scotenogam and Culhepste, appears very tame. - -The site of the refectory, the chapel, the hall, and several other rooms, -in the ruins of Neath Abbey, may still be traced. It stands on the east -of the river, and was formerly, by Leland’s account, the “fairest abbey -of all Wales;” but in his Collectanea {50} he seems to give Margam the -preference of all the Cistercian houses in these parts. It was founded -for white monks, by Richard de Granville. About the time of its -dissolution it contained only eight monks, and was valued at 132_l._ -7_s._ 7_d._ per annum. In this abbey the unfortunate King Edward II. -secreted himself in the year 1326, when prevented, by contrary winds, -from his intended escape to Ireland; he was soon, however, discovered, -and confined in the castle of Kenilworth, under the custody of the Earl -of Leicester. Near the ruins are the copper-works: the ore is chiefly -imported from Cornwall and Wicklow in Ireland; being calcined, and -thereby losing its sulphur, it is refined by the simple process of -frequent melting, and taking off the dross, which forms a scum: lastly, -being moulded into small plates, or pigs, it is shipped for the market. -The method of reducing the metal, when melted, into small particles, is -by pouring it into water; and when thus reduced, it is called -copper-shot. Brass is a compound of copper thus reduced, and lapis -calaminaris pulverized in crucibles, and moulded or cast into plates. -Lapis calaminaris is dug in great quantities near Holywell, in -Flintshire. - -Neath, although surrounded by beautiful scenery, is itself unpleasantly -situated: it is low, the streets narrow, the buildings old, and there is -in the first view of it an air of desertion and poverty, that sets the -traveller against it; yet it possesses some trade as a sea-port, in -coals, iron, and copper, for which it is now considerably indebted to its -canal, which communicates betwixt Aberdare and Britton Ferry. The ruins -of the castle still exist, but possess no particular merit, derived -either from strength, beauty, or antiquity. A navigable canal has been -made to communicate with all the interior parts of the country to Pont -Nedd Vechan. The market days at Neath are Wednesdays and Saturdays. It -is one hundred and ninety-six miles one furlong from London. Near Neath -is Cringell, the residence of William Davis, Esq. author of a History of -this County; and about a mile up the vale of Neath is Cadoxton Lodge, -near which is a cascade. The road from hence to Swansea is very good, -and not incommoded by the smoke of the copper-works, as it was formerly; -but for horse or foot passengers, though more circuitous, there is a -pleasant way by - - - -BRITTON FERRY. - - -This village is much resorted to, on account of its beautiful situation; -and many a white-washed cottage straggles through the hamlet. The -plantations of the Earl of Jersey, late Lord Vernon’s, are well disposed, -and edge the water’s brink: the river is constantly filled with vessels, -whose gay streamers glittering to the sun-beam, present to the eye a -constant moving object. The richness and beauty of this spot is scarcely -to be equalled in all the principality: and the climate is so mild, that -myrtles, magnolias, fuschias, and other tender exotics, grow luxuriantly -in the open air. The church-yard is very beautiful, and beneath the -shade of its trees a friend of the Editor of the present Edition wrote -the following lines: - - When death has stolen our dearest friends away, - Some tears to shed is graceful:—but to mourn - Loudly and deeply, that their pains are o’er, - Is but to prove, we lov’d ourselves far more - Than e’er we cherish’d, lov’d, or valued them. - To bear misfortune with an equal mind; - To mount the aspiring pinnacle of fame, - With a warm heart, and temperate resolve; - To curb the rage that prompts to wild revenge; - To pay the malice of an envious throng - With pity and forgiveness; and to weep, - With tears of joy, that our most “useful” friend - Has paid the debt Eternity demands, - Alike bespeak nobility of mind, - And the proud hope, that heaven’s decrees are just. - Stranger! of peasant or of royal line; - Treasure these thoughts, and Autumn’s yellow leaf - Shall never fill thine aged eyes with tears! - -Having crossed the Ferry, we proceeded on the sands to - - - -SWANSEA. - - -The whole of this walk commanded a boundless view of the ocean to the -west, whilst to the south the faint hues of the Somersetshire coast -skirted the horizon. - -Swansea, or Abertawe, is a well-built sea-port town, on the river Tawe, -much resorted to during the summer months. The machines for bathing are -kept about half a mile from the town. The castle is supposed to have -been erected by Henry, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of King Henry I.; -and is at present the property of the Duke of Beaufort; the small arches -round the top of it are exactly similar to the buildings of Lantphey -castle, and King John’s Hall, St. David’s, Pembrokeshire. This castle is -now turned into a gaol and workhouse. The market-place is said to be -covered with the lead of St. David’s cathedral, given by Cromwell to a -gentleman of Swansea. - -The clay used for the pottery, long carried on in this place, is brought -from Corfe, in Dorsetshire: having been mixed with finely-ground flint, -and dissolved in water, it is passed through sieves, till it has lost all -its coarser particles; then exposed to heat, which evaporates the water, -and leaves the clay of a consistency sufficient for working. The vessel -is first rudely formed by the hand, the clay being stuck to a circular -board, which has an horizontal rotation. The other operation consists in -the more perfect forming of the work by various processes, and the -colouring, glazing, painting, and stamping; drying and baking kilns -complete the work. - -The harbour of Swansea, which is large, has had great sums expended upon -it, without much judgment having been evinced in the expenditure: the -piers, which are extensive, are already frequently wanting considerable -repairs, and will always be a source of emolument to those who know how -to make the most of a good job. Swansea Bay is beautiful, and the sail -from Swansea to Ilfracombe one of the pleasantest and cheapest I ever -enjoyed. The entrance into the latter harbour is grand and terrific; the -stupendous rocks by which it is sheltered and enclosed impressing the -mind, on a temperate day, with that pleasing awe, which in a more -tempestuous time, “when the raging billows roar,” would amount to horror -and dismay. Ilfracombe affords comfortable accommodation to remain at; -but to remove inland, you have to send to Barnstaple for a conveyance: it -is a most romantic situation. Swansea is seen to great advantage from -the bay, its best front being towards the Channel; it is a mixture of -good and bad, of old streets and new, wide and narrow, pride and poverty, -much show and little wealth. The market, which is on a Saturday, is -greatly improved of late years, and not only affords comforts, but -luxuries; yet Swansea, except to those who are acquainted with it, is a -more expensive place to reside at for a short time than an English -watering place: still those lodgings, which are so highly rated during -the season, are comfortable retreats to half-pay officers during the -winter months; and from the mildness of the climate, and many families -taking up their residence at it during that period, Swansea, were it not -for the faults and greediness or mismanagement of some of its -inhabitants, would rise to wealth and respectability. The playhouse is -respectable, and the performers generally good, but badly repaid for -their exertions. The post-office here is very regular, and conveyances -to Bristol, Gloucester, or London, although expensive, regular and safe. -A walk may be comfortably enjoyed in five minutes after a shower, or -between showers, without wet feet; and both drives and rides in the -vicinity are numerous and beautiful. The libraries are good, well -supplied, and civil, and the shops accommodating, and plentifully -stocked: still I should think the traveller would take more money at -Merthyr than Swansea, and four times as much at that little high-spirited -place, Caermarthen, as at either; such at least must be the case, if any -criterion is to be formed from the quantum of circulating medium -required, as gained from the requisitions for the exchange of the new for -the old coinage, Caermarthen having wanted upwards of 20,000_l._ and -Swansea not having required 4,000_l._ The mail road to Caermarthen is by -Pontarddylais, nine miles; Llanon, four miles; Caermarthen, thirteen. -Swansea is about two hundred and five miles from London. Its population -consists of 10,255 inhabitants. It has some trade to the Baltic; and -more than 100,000 chaldrons of coals are annually exported. - - - -OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE, - - -about five miles from Swansea, is finely situated on an eminence, -commanding a delightful prospect of the surrounding country, and the -Mumbles’ Bay. The ivy-mantled walls of this castle are sufficiently -perfect to distinguish what the apartments were originally designed for. -It formerly belonged to the lords of Gower, but is now in the possession -of the Duke of Beaufort. It is a majestic ruin, standing in a bold -position, commanding a beautiful view of the country, the Bay of Swansea, -and surrounded by broken cliffs. The walls are so little injured by -time, that the design of the apartments may easily be traced. The -general figure is polygonal; the ramparts lofty, but not flanked with -towers, except just at the entrance. It is a good specimen of the Gothic -style; and is ascribed to the Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry the -First. Our curiosity being satisfied, we hastened to the - - - -MUMBLES, - - -celebrated, far and near, for the goodness and abundance of its oysters. -This village stands at the extremity of Swansea Bay, on a vast mass of -splintered rock: from this elevation the wide expanse of the ocean and -Swansea Bay are viewed to great advantage. These rocks are inaccessible -at high water, except in a boat; on the farthest is erected a -light-house, serviceable to the navigation of the British Channel. The -lodging-house above Oystermouth, called Thistle-boon, commands a fine -view of the Peninsula of Gower; the Bay of Swansea on one side, and that -of Caermarthen on the other. - -At Pennard we descended some immense sand-banks, which led us into Oxwich -Bay: at the head of the sandbanks are the small remains of an old castle, -{57a} scarcely worthy of observation. The sands in this bay are -extremely fine, and the bold projections of the rock exhibit Nature in -her most awful and impressive attitudes. To the right of Oxwich Bay is -situate, at Penrice, {57b} the seat of Mr. Talbot: the grounds are well -planned, and command extensive views of the sea: the old castle, rising -behind the house, gave the whole a fine effect. It has been converted -into an aviary. Lady Mary Talbot (now Cole), has the most beautiful -flower garden in the whole principality. - -Between Penrice and the neat village of - - - -CHERITON, - - -we observed to our right, on a hill, a large flat cromlech, several tons -weight, resting on about six smaller ones, placed perpendicularly, and -standing about five feet high: this is vulgarly called King Arthur’s -stone. The lifting of this stone in its present place is mentioned in -the Welsh Historical Triads as one of the three arduous undertakings -accomplished in the Island of Britain. On a hill, opposite our inn, we -discovered evident vestiges of a Roman encampment. From this elevation -the eye caught a fine view of Caermarthen Bay, and the bold promontory of -Worm’s Head, to the south-west: this rock is only accessible at low -water. - -The country through which we traversed for the four or five last miles is -inhabited by a colony of Flemings, who settled here in the reign of King -Henry I. In the reign of this king’s father, a great number of Flemings -having been driven out of their habitations by a very extraordinary -inundation of the sea, sought protection in England, where they were -cordially received. But so many of these people being dispersed in -different parts of the kingdom, began, by the increase of their numbers, -to create some uneasiness; which King Henry I. removed, by settling them -as a colony in South Wales, and gave them the country adjoining to Tenby -and Haverfordwest. By this wise policy the king rid his own dominions of -an incumbrance, and curbed the insolence of the then rebellious -Cambrians. {58} The little territory they inhabit is called _Gwyr_; and -by the English, Little England beyond Wales: because their manners and -language are still distinguishable from the Welsh, and in point of speech -assimilate the English. These Flemings, to this day, seldom or never -intermarry with the Welsh: they speak good English, and are very much -averse to the manners and language of the country they inhabit; both -sexes generally distinguish themselves by wearing a short cloak, called -_gowyr wittle_. - -In preference to a long walk, of near thirty miles, we crossed the river -Bury, at Loughton, in the church-yard of which village we found the -following epitaph: - - The village maidens to her grave shall bring - Selected garlands, each returning spring: - Selected sweets! in emblem of the maid, - Who underneath this hallowed turf is laid: - Like her, they flourish, beauteous to the eye; - Like her, too soon, they languish, fade and die. - -From Loughor we proceeded to - - - -LLANELLY, - - -a miserable dirty place, filled with miners and sailors. From hence to - - - -KIDWELLY, - - -the road leads over the Pembree hills; and from this elevation the -scenery is viewed to great advantage. - -The castle of Kidwelly, otherwise Cathweli, was formerly, I imagine, of -great extent, and is still the most perfect we had hitherto met with in -Wales. The extent of the apartments is distinguishable; some of the -staircases accessible; and the four round towers, keep, gateway, and -yard, spread an awful gloom around, whose beauties time had just -sufficiently impaired, to heighten its grandeur and sublimity. To this -castle King John retired, when at war with his Barons. Our guide -expatiated much on the history and events of the castle, and told the -story with as much agitation and interest as if it had happened -yesterday. The road to - - - -CAERMARTHEN - - -we found unpleasantly hilly, but occasional valleys to our left enlivened -our walk. Near Caermarthen we crossed a bridge of freestone over the -Towy. This river, running through the middle of this shire, falls into -the British Sea at Caermarthen Bay, and is navigable for small vessels as -far as the bridge. Immediately over it, upon a hanging rock, stand the -remains of a once renowned castle. This town was the site of a Roman -station, _Maridunum_, and, according to Giraldus’s authority, was -anciently a place of great strength, and fortified with brick walls, -which are yet partly extant, near the river. This place, now considered -as the capital of the county, was formerly the residence of the Prince of -South Wales; and the ancient Britons here held their parliaments. The -chancery likewise, and exchequer for South Wales, were kept here, when -this territory was first erected into a principality, by the crown of -England. In the thirty-eighth year of King Henry VIII. it was created a -borough-town. - -No part of Wales can boast a more generous or higher-spirited people than -the gentry in the vicinity, and the inhabitants of Caermarthen. Its -trade is likewise considerable, as the circumjacent country, for a very -considerable distance, is dependent upon it for the common luxuries, and -what are now deemed, even in Wales, necessaries of life, for which they -bring for sale or barter the most simple article of the native produce; -and you may frequently see the basket that has been brought for miles, -not contain a sixpenny-worth of herbs, eggs, &c.; yet this trifle is to -them of consequence, and enables them to add to the little stock of tea, -tape, or pins, which they require. The busy scene of a Caermarthen -market is highly interesting, particularly to one fond of the study of -political economy. - - “Man wants but little here below, - Nor wants that little long.” - -How cheap must be the subsistence of a party who can walk twelve or -fourteen miles to earn sixpence, or disburse a shilling or -eighteen-pence, and how few must be their weekly wants which so small a -sum can satisfy! It is true they divide this labour, and each take their -turn of village or neighbourly duty. The market of this place is not -only extremely reasonable, but excellent; hardly excelled in quality by -any but Worcester, the cleanliness and beauty of the exhibition of which -beats all England. Caermarthen has abundance of good meat, fish, -poultry, butter, wild-fowl, and game. In December, 1819, I bought three -fine turkeys for nine shillings, fowls from eightpence to one shilling -each, and other things in proportion; still the taxes are the same as in -England, and good land is high rented; but the wants of the tenantry are -fewer; small farms are abundant, and every cottage has its garden and -plot of ground, as well as waste land generally: fuel is likewise cheap. - -The view from Caermarthen over the Towy is beautiful, and not to be -enjoyed any where to greater advantage than from the back rooms of the -Ivy Bush inn, or the terrace walk in the garden. Its population is rated -at between 7 and 8000, and its houses at about 1200. The market days are -Saturday and Wednesday. It is 231 miles from London, by Bristol, and 216 -by Gloucester. - -The mail arrives from London at nine in the morning, and departs at two -o’clock in the afternoon generally. I should feel it the height of -ingratitude, if I had failed to notice the great attention paid to -strangers who attend divine service at the church: not only are they -immediately accommodated in comfortable pews, but prayer-books are -supplied to them by the son of the clerk. In short, I witnessed a -courtesy and attention to strangers, and a backwardness to receive -remuneration, such as I never saw evinced at any other place. - -The late Ivy Bush was the house of Sir Richard Steele, who obtained it -and his property in this neighbourhood by marriage with the heiress of -Jonathan Scurlock, Esq. After the death of his wife he retired to a -small farm-house, called the White House, lying about a mile from -Caermarthen, and there he wrote his celebrated comedy of the Conscious -Lovers. - -At some distance from Caermarthen are several very remarkable caves: -whence Merlin is supposed to have delivered his oracles. - - Of Merlin and his skill what region doth not hear? - Who of a British nymph was gotten whilst she play’d - With a seducing spirit. - - _Drayton Polyolbion_, s. v. - -Caermarthen gave birth to Merlin, who is styled, by an ancient author, -“the sonne of a badde angell, or of an incubus spirit, the Britaine’s -great Apollo, whom Geoffrey ap Arthur would ranke with the south-saying -seer, or rather with the true prophets themselves; being none other than -a mere seducer and phantastical wizard.” He flourished in the year 480. - -Some few years after this tour, I took the road to Caermarthen from -Ragland, through Crickhowel, Brecon, Llandovery, and Landilo. Passing -through Abergavenny, we paused for a few days at Crickhowel, where we -amused ourselves in fly-fishing in the river Usk. - -Crickhowel stands in the centre of a vale, scarcely surpassed by that of -the Towy; and is supposed to have been built in the time of Howel Dha, -about the year 940. The castle presents little to attract attention. -The church contains some few ancient monuments; but the principal objects -for a traveller are to be found at a short distance from the town; viz. a -remarkable cave south of Langattock; a waterfall in a dingle, leading to -Llanelly iron-works; the remains of a castle, on what is called the Camp -Hill; and the beautiful village of Lambeter, the walks of which are, of -themselves, almost worthy a journey into Wales. The society around -Crickhowel is highly respectable; but there are no noblemen’s seats, and -only one park within the distance of many miles. The natural scenery, -however, amply compensates. - -From Crickhowel we proceeded to a village named Cwmdu, situated between -two chains of mountains. The village is poor to the last degree, but the -land is rich; and the valley, in which it is situated, may be called the -granary of Brecknockshire. There is scarcely a field on the lower sides -of the hills, that does not present a spot favourable to build upon. -From the farm and house, called Cwmgû, is one of the most beautiful views -in all Wales; commanding, as it does, the vale of Usk, the river winding -through it, innumerable fields, a high mountain towards the north, the -town of Crickhowel on the east; the ruins of Tretower below; a woody hill -rising above it; and, from a field at a short distance from the house, -the double head of the Beacons, towering, as it were, into the clouds. - -Brecon, or Aber Honddu, is a very romantic town; with good inns, and -every accommodation for a respectable family. The views around it are -beautiful; the Priory groves, as a public walk, are the most delightful -in all Wales, perhaps in Britain; while the castle, the priory, and other -fragments of antiquity, afford ample materials for the contemplation of -those who connect scenes with former events; for within the walls of the -castle was planned the union of the two houses of York and Lancaster. - -Passing through Trecastle, a miserable village, once a large town, -possessing the ruins of a castle, we entered a valley, winding for six or -eight miles at the feet of mountains, presenting at every step something -to admire, and arrived at Llandovery, or Llanymddvri, situated on the -banks of the Brane, near the head of the upper vale of Towy. Here we -found the remains of a small castle, once in the possession of Richard de -Pws; small in dimensions, and uninteresting in its history; but the town -derives some notice from its having produced Rhys Prichard, author of a -book well known in almost every _Welsh_ house by the name of the _Vicar’s -Book_. He sleeps here without inscription or monument. - -From Llandovery, the road and the Towy proceed to Llandilo through a -country at once rich in fertility, and beautiful in point of scenery. -Llandilo is remarkable for a battle, fought in 1281, between Edward the -First and Llewellyn the Great. It has no feature in itself worthy of -attention; but its environs are beautiful to the last degree. - -About a mile from this town, on the road to Caermarthen, are the ruins of -Dinevawr Castle, the most celebrated spot in the principality. This -castle was erected by Roderique the Great, in the year 877. So much have -been written of these ruins, of the noble park, belonging to Lord -Dynevor, and the country round, that I shall merely observe, that, after -passing a few hours in admiration, we passed on to Grongar Hill, and sate -beneath the hawthorn under which Dyer is supposed to have written his -beautiful poem. I cannot, however, refrain from quoting a passage from -Spenser, where he describes the Cave of Merlin, which he places near the -rocks of Dinevawr. - - If thou shouldst ever happen that same way - To travel, go to see that dreadful place: - It is a hideous, hollow, cave-like bay - Under a rock, that has a little space - From the swift Barry, tumbling down apace, - Amongst the woody hills of Dinevawr. - But dare thou not, I charge, in any case - To enter into that same baleful bower, - For fear the cruel fiends should thee unawares devour. - - But standing high aloft, low lay thine ear; - And there such ghastly noise of iron chains, - And brasen cauldrons thou shalt rumbling hear, - Which thousand sprights with long enduring pains - Do toss, that it will stun thy feeble brains. - And oftentimes great groans, and grievous sounds, - When too huge toil and labour them constrains. - And oftentimes loud strokes and ringing sounds - From under that deep rock most horribly rebounds. - - FAERIE QUEENE, B. iii. Cant. 3. - -The view from Grongar Hill is inexpressibly beautiful. To attempt -describing it would only be showing the poverty of human language. - -From this spot the road winds to Caermarthen with many a graceful curve, -through a country presenting a multitude of objects for the pencil of an -accomplished painter. - -The regular road to Tenby is by St. Clears, nine miles one quarter: Cold -Blow, ten miles seven furlongs; left to Tenby, eight miles and a quarter; -at St. Clears is the Blue Boar, and at Cold Blow the Windsor Castle; but, -should the Tourist prefer the coast to the regular road, I should -recommend him to visit Llanstaphan castle, at the mouth of the Towy; a -large and venerable ruin, memorable for the siege it sustained about the -middle of the twelfth century, when defended by Meredith ap Gruffydd, who -defeated all the attacks of the Normans, &c. who besieged it. The -village, which is now resorted to for sea-bathing, is situate at the -bottom of the hill. At high water there is a ferry to the village on the -opposite side: at low water, at particular periods, the sands may be -crossed on horseback; but strangers should not attempt this without a -guide. From Llanstaphan the Tourist may proceed by Llaugharne, Green -Bridge, &c. - -From Caermarthen we were recommended to go to - - - -LLAUGHARNE, - - -in order to see the castle; but it by no means answered our expectation: -little part of it now remains; and the neat gravel walk in the garden is -ill adapted for the mutilated walls of an ancient ruin. From the -neighbouring heights, grand and extensive sea-prospects interest the -traveller. At this place was born the once-celebrated Dean Tucker. One -mile distant is another ruin, called Rock Castle, but supposed to have -been a monastery. About five miles from Llaugharne, we passed a small -place, called - - - -GREEN BRIDGE. - - -It derives its name from an excavation in the rock, through which a -little rivulet runs for a mile and a half. This cavity is completely -concealed from the road, and impossible to be discovered, unless pointed -out. But I would advise travellers to alter their route from Swansea, -and pursue the straight road to Caermarthen, by Pontarddylais, where is a -comfortable inn, and so to Tenby, by Narbeth. By these means they escape -the unpleasant roads (and almost, indeed, inaccessible for carriages), -leading from Oystermouth to Cheriton, and likewise from Llaugharne to -Tenby. But should the Tourist be led by an invincible curiosity to -inspect the ruins of Kidwelly Castle, it may easily be accomplished, by -pursuing the turnpike road to Kidwelly, and from thence to Caermarthen. -In this last route you only omit visiting the seat of Mr. Talbot, of -Penrice, though an object highly worthy of inspection. - -At Saunders’ Foot is a small bay, formed on one side by a rock, called -the Monkstone, and on the other by the Caermarthenshire coast. Near this -place is situate the seat of Captain Ackland; and from thence to Tenby, -the dark lowering rocks rose perpendicularly to a considerable height, -and then branched out into overhanging crags. It was now dusk;—and at -this transforming hour, the bold promontories became shaded with unreal -glooms,—the projecting cliffs assumed a more terrific aspect,—and the -wild overhanging underwood - - “Waved to the gale in hoarser murmurs.” - - - -TENBY - - -is much resorted to during the summer months for bathing. It stands on a -rock facing Caermarthen Bay: the bold promontory of the Monkstone Head to -the north, and St. Catherine’s Point to the south, form a fine -amphitheatre. The shore is well adapted for bathing; the machines -excellent; and a singular rock, rising in the sea close to the shore, -shelters the bathing machines even in the most boisterous weather. On -the south of Tenby, at the extremity of the small island of St. -Catherine’s, attainable at low-water, are the remains of a Roman Catholic -chapel. Entirely through this island is a singular perforation, which, -without any difficulty, may be penetrated at the reflux of the tide. The -views from the south sands are remarkably beautiful; the character of the -rocks is here awfully wild, craggy, and impending; and the distant -fishing-boats, with their white sails, and the voices of the fishermen, -who constantly frequent this coast, borne at intervals on the air, are -circumstances which animate the scene: whilst the islands of Caldy and -St. Margaret’s opportunely rise, to render the terrific ocean beautiful. -The retrospect is equally interesting; the neat town of Tenby, with the -mutilated walls of its castle, closes this charming scene. - -The ancient walls of Tenby are still sufficiently perfect to show its -former strength and extent; and the four round towers, standing on the -extremity of the rock, point out the situation of its castle. Near this -is a ruinous building, supposed to be the remains of a Flemish -manufactory, probably woollen. On the north sands is likewise another -walk, equally beautiful, commanding the whole extent of Caermarthen Bay. -On the summit of the rocks, over these sands, is the walk called the -Croft. - -Tenby is greatly indebted to Sir William Paxton for his exertions in -improving it. The inconvenience it so long laboured under from want of -water has been, through his means, completely removed, and that most -necessary article of life is now enjoyed by its inhabitants in great -purity and profusion. - -From the general high state of perfection and transparent clearness of -the sea-water at Tenby, it has become a place of that fashionable resort, -that both hot and cold sea-water baths became requisite for the comfort -and infirmities of its numerous genteel visitors: these Sir William has -likewise caused to be erected on the most convenient plans, with -extensive reservoirs, dressing, and lounging-rooms, &c. under the -superintendence of Mr. Cockerell. The bath-house is beautifully situated -outside the harbour, adjoining the Castle Hill: an excellent -carriage-road leads to it; and a large vestibule is allotted for servants -to wait in: lodgings and refreshments are likewise provided for such as -require them. The dressing-rooms for the warm and vapour baths are -raised to any temperature by warm air; and there is a cupping-room, -provided with all necessary apparatus, for such as require that -operation. - -The principal inns and hotels are Shaw’s, Jenkins’s, the Lion and the -Bull; there is a theatre, bowling-green, assemblies, billiard-rooms, -library, &c. &c. Horses are to be hired: and both rides and walks, in -the vicinity, are beautiful and abundant. - -This place, from the vast quantity of fish caught near the coast, is -called Tenby-y-Piscoid. The Church of Tenby is a large, handsome, and -antique edifice, and contains several monuments, bearing an ancient date, -worthy of notice. On the left of the altar is one to William Risam, with -the following inscription. - - Two hundred pounds - And 50 more - He gave this towne - to help the poore. - - The use of one on cloth - and coles bestowe - For twelve decrepid mean - and lowe. - - Let 50 pounds to five - Be yearly lent - The other’s use on Burges’ - sonne’s be spent. - -On the same side is a monument to the memory of John Moore, Esq., who, at -the age of fifty-eight, and having by his first wife six sons and ten -daughters, fell desperately in love, which not being returned, he died of -a consumption at Tenby. The following epitaph is very allusive to his -unfortunate catastrophe: - - He that from home for love - was hither brought, - Is now brought home, this God - for him hath wrought. - -Another monument to Morgan Williams: - - Igne probatur - En animus rursus clare in corpore - MORGAN WILLIAMS, - descended from the heiress of - Robert Ferrar, Bishop of St. David’s, - Burnt alive by bigots under Q. Mary; - was lately chief of Gargam, - and senior in council at - Madras. - Where Oct. 27, 1690, aged 49 years, - he resign’d the President’s chair - and his breath together. - An employment of full thirty years - chronicles the continual - approbation of his conduct, - particularly as - chief commissioner of the circuit. - -To the south of Tenby are some insulated rocks, in which are many curious -excavations, and several islands, the principal of which is Caldy Island, -consisting of about 600 acres, 200 of which are in a state of -cultivation. The tower of its ancient priory is still standing. - -If the Tourist has leisure and opportunity, many excursions may be made -during his stay at Tenby. The first and most important is, to Pembroke -and Milford Haven. The road affords many grand and extensive sea views, -with a faint prospect of Lundy Isle. About four miles from Tenby stand -the ruins of Mannorbeer castle, {72a} supposed to have been erected about -the time of William Rufus. A little farther on, the ivy-mantled walls of -Carew Castle {72b} burst upon us; and, about three miles from Pembroke, -the decayed and broken walls of Llanfeth, or Lantphey Castle, attracted -our notice, once the residence of the Bishops of St. David’s, but now a -monument of desolation. The three buildings of Swansea Castle; Lantphey -Court; and King John’s Hall, St. David’s; are very similar in their -workmanship. We now arrived at - - - -PEMBROKE. - - -Mr. Wyndham has so minutely delineated the present state of this castle, -that I cannot do better than transcribe his account: - - “The approach to Pembroke from the river shows the town and castle to - the most beautiful advantage. The town is situated upon the ridge of - a long and narrow rock, gradually ascending to the highest point, on - which stands the castle, at the brink of the precipice. If I may - compare small things with great, it much resembles the situation of - Edinburgh. - - “The castle is of Norman architecture, mixed with early Gothic. The - principal tower, which is uncommonly high and perfect, has even its - stone vaulted roof remaining. The walls of this tower are fourteen - feet in thickness, the diameter of the space within is twenty-five, - and the height, from the ground to the crown of the dome, is - seventy-five feet; but visible marks appear within, that its height - was originally divided by four floors. - - “King Henry VII. was born in the present castle. The natural cavern, - called the Wogan, lies immediately under the chapel, and opens with a - wide mouth towards the river. A communication from the cavern to the - castle was made by a staircase, on the outside of the rock; the - entrance was barricaded with a strong wall, partly remaining, through - which there is now a large door-way opened to the shore of the river. - The cavern appears nearly circular; its diameter is fifty-three feet, - and its height is proportionable to the diameter. - - “In the civil war this castle was a garrison for the crown; and, - being besieged, made a gallant defence.” In a cavern under this - castle is a remarkable echo. - -Pembroke is by many still considered the next town, in South Wales, to -Caermarthen; but, although the situation is fine, and the main street -good, still the residue of the town shows evident symptoms of decay, and -that it lacks that trade and notice which Haverfordwest is deriving from -its downfall. It gives the title of Earl to the Herbert family. - -The two churches within the walls are ancient. St. Michael’s is of -Norman architecture; it is at the east end of the town: St. Mary’s in the -centre of it. The priory church has its nave vaulted with stone; it is -paved with glazed bricks, with arms, flowers, &c. upon them. Near the -church is the prior’s mansion, which still exhibits proofs of its former -splendour and the large establishment of its possessors: it is now become -a humble dilapidated farm-house; and, to trace its origin, you must go to -the foundation. In 1811 Pembroke contained 501 houses, and a population -of 2415 persons. From hence is a pleasant excursion, the account of -which, as given by Mr. Fenton, in his work on Pembrokeshire, I subjoin:— - - “Quitting the magnificent ruins of Pembroke, pass through Monkton, - from the height of which an admirable view may be attained; reach Dry - Burrows, a furzy moor, covered with tumuli. To the left stands - Orielton. Here, turn to the right, passing Castleton, still you will - observe various tumuli: from this height to the right, the navigation - from Pennarmouth to the town of Pembroke. The coast here is famous - for oysters of superior excellence, in inexhaustible quantities. - Descend by Hênllan, anciently inhabited by the descendants of - Gwynfard Dyfed: hence to Pwllcrochon church-yard, upon a small creek - of Milford Haven, in which a memorable skirmish took place between - the king’s and parliament’s forces. The parish church of - Rhôscrowther is dignified with a handsome tower, and the interior - contains some figures well sculptured: distant a quarter of a mile - stands Iestingtown, or vulgarly Iseston, long the residence of the - family of Meares; it appears to have been castellated. Not far from - the church is a well, called St. Degmen’s, to which great virtues - have been ascribed. Skirting the Bay of Nangle, reach the village of - that name, so called from being somewhat placed _in angulo_. It - bears marks of former consequence: in the church is a monument to - Brigadier Ferrars. To the north of a brook, running behind the - church-yard, are the remains of a considerable building, with a - square tower, called the castle, said to have been the principal - residence of the Sherbones, ancient Lords of the Vill; it is now an - inn. Hence along the coast is a block-house, a singular building, - reared upon the very edge of a horrid precipice overhanging the sea, - fronting another upon the dale side of Milford. The masonry of these - buildings is excellent; their origin is uncertain. Leaving Bangeston - on the left, after passing over a sandy tract, you reach the village - of Castle Martin, an ancient British post, part of the works of which - are still remaining. A little further is Merion Court, belonging to - Lord Cawdor; and, near to the village, to the north-east, a British - circular camp. The road now passes the extremity of Lord Cawdor’s - property at Brawnslade, farmed on the most improved principles. - Still further along the coast is Bully Bear, where are the remains of - a fortified camp. Hence to Linney Point, and the Head of Man, a - promontory of great height, awfully overhanging its base: near this, - a fine view of an insulated rock, called Pennyholt Stock, pass the - Wash to a Danish camp; in which is that wonderful chasm called the - Caldron: the entrance to the camp is by a winding ascent; it has been - of considerable extent and great strength; and, with the Caldron and - rock, most curious and worthy of observation. Bosherton Meer is - occasionally agitated to such an extent as to be heard at a - considerable distance—resembling thunder, and its foam rising many - feet above the mouth of the pit. At a short distance to the east, is - a fissure in the cliffs not discernible till nearly on its edge, - called Penny’s and Adam’s Leap, over which these hunters were - precipitated: thence you proceed to the Horse Block, and St. Govan’s - Chapel and Well, to the latter of which great virtues are ascribed. - The surrounding scenery is in the highest degree picturesque: the - larger bay is surrounded by cliffs, in the form of an amphitheatre; - that in which the hermitage is placed is truly romantic. In - proceeding to Stackpool Court, after again gaining the height, you - pass Buckspool, and from thence to Bosherton; below the village, pass - under a tongue of land, on which are the remains of a strong - encampment; near this is a small cavern, in the Limestone Rock, where - human bones have been found. Harold is said to have infested this - coast, and to have left marks of his predatory victories inscribed— - - Hic Haroldus victor fuit. - - Of three stones, the most east stands in Stackpool Park Warren, - pitched upon one end; the second, surmounting a carnedd, is in a - field called Horsestone Park, consisting of a great mass of - limestone, six feet above the ground, five in breadth, and a foot in - thickness; it is bedded in an almost circular mound of stones. The - third stone is upon the same line, but more west; it is the tallest, - almost incrusted with a minute lichen.” - -Stackpool Court (from the broad rock at the mouth of Broad Haven) is the -elegant seat of Lord Cawdor. It is on the west side of the pool, on a -fine eminence, at the edge of a bold declivity. It bore originally a -castellated form, but lost its ancient baronial character. In the civil -wars it was fortified and garrisoned for the king. The walls were so -strong, that the ordnance made little impression. The present mansion, -which occupies the same site, is of wrought limestone; its architecture -is heavy. Lady Cawdor has contributed to Mr. Fenton’s Tour, from her own -pencil, a charming view of this vicinity, taken near the bridge, in -crossing from the house to the park. The house has two fronts, the -principal one facing the pleasure-ground, the other opening to a fine -piece of water. You enter the latter front from a broad terrace, -extending to the whole length; and, after descending, it continues to the -extent of a spacious conservatory. The house is formed into many fine -apartments, and the library is large. In one room, containing family -pictures, is a whole length of Lord Cawdor, by Sir J. Reynolds, and -another of Lady Cawdor, by Sir W. Beechey. The offices are well -arranged, and the stables form a detached large quadrangular building. -Of Stackpool, says Mr. Fenton, without straining a compliment, there are -few places which display more magnificence without, or more sumptuous -hospitality and elegant comforts within. But, to sum up the importance -of this place, be it known that it stands in the midst of a property of -fifteen thousand acres of most valuable land! Opposite is the park, well -stocked with deer, deformed by some barren sand-banks, and at present -deficient in wood. The borders of the lake and the pleasure-grounds are, -however, richly wooded. Between the park and the sea there is a warren, -formed of mountains of sand, and consolidated by that valuable plant -môrhesg (juncus maritimus), sea or mat rushes. The lake is abundantly -stocked with wild fowl, which collect at a call, and consent to be fed -like barn-door poultry. - -Passing along the park, enter the pleasant village of Stackpool, where -the ancient lords’ vassals resided: hence descend to a vale on the right, -where a private gate leads through a woody avenue to the church of -Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur, so named from its founder. It stands at -the head of a sequestered dell; is a plain building, with a tower; -consists of a nave and chancel, having two small aisles on the south -side. On the north side of the chancel, under a wrought canopy of stone, -lies a cross-legged knight, said to represent Elidur de Stackpool, the -first possessor of Stackpool; the same whom Giraldus mentions, who took -the cross at the time that Archbishop Baldwin made his transit through -the country. Ascend to St. Petroc’s, a rectory in the gift of Lord -Cawdor: the church is small, but very light and neat. The only -conspicuous monument is a handsome mural marble tablet, to a Lady Jane -Mansell, wife first of Sir Roger Lort, and afterwards Sir Edward Mansell, -of Muddlescombe, Bart. in the county of Caermarthen. The rectors of this -place have been observed to live to a great age. - -At a short distance from Stackpool stands the chapel of St. Gowen, -situated in a fine amphitheatre of rocks, rising immediately over the -sea. In respect to this scene, the Author of the Beauties, Harmonies, -and Sublimities of Nature, thus expresses himself:—“As for you, my -Lelius, never shall I forget your enthusiasm, when we visited the chapel -of St. Gowen, situated among those stupendous rocks, which, forming a -semicircular area towards the sea, commands a noble prospect of the coast -of Devon. The language you employed on that interesting occasion, never -can I be so base as to forget! ‘If our prayers are at one time more -acceptable than at another, it must assuredly be in those moments when -our souls are elevated by such scenery as this! Often have I been awed -to devotion at Rome and at Loretto, in the presence of Canons, Bishops, -and Cardinals; but here, in the rude simplicity of nature, I feel my -spirit separate, as it were, from the tenement which has so long chained -it to the earth, and wing its course directly up to heaven! The -magnificent area, in which this small chapel is situated, is a temple -more sublimely grand and affecting than all the mosques of Turkey, and -all the cathedrals of France, Italy, or Spain.’” - -At Pembroke we hired a boat, {80a} intending to sail round the extensive -Haven of Milford; and, as we retired from the shore, we took a retrospect -of the dilapidated walls of the castle, once the terror, and even in -ruins, the pride of the scene. It is most advisable to make this -excursion at high water, as it adds much to the picturesque scenery of -the _tout ensemble_. - - - -MILFORD HAVEN, - - -is justly compared to “an immense lake; for, the mouth not being at any -distance visible, the whole haven seems land-locked. Though it is a mile -and three quarters wide, it could not be defended against an enemy, nor -is there a sufficiency of timber in the neighbourhood. {80b} - -“This haven is formed by a great advance of the sea into the land, it -being above ten miles from the southernmost point at Nangle to Pembroke, -beyond which the tide comes up to and beyond Carew Castle. It is capable -of holding the whole navy of England; and the same is said of Cork -Harbour. {80c} The spring tides rise thirty-six feet, the neap above -twenty-six. Ships may be out of this haven in an hour’s time; and in -eight or ten hours over at Ireland, or the Land’s End; and this with -almost any wind, by day or night.” - -“In surveying the estuary of Milford Haven,” says a writer, whom we shall -frequently have occasion to quote, “expanding into one of the finest -harbours in all Europe, and wearing the appearance of an immense lake, -sufficiently large to contain the entire navy of the British Crown, -secure from winds and tempests, and where a large fleet might manœuvre -with the greatest safety,—what ideas of power and magnificence are -awakened in the mind! Then by a magic glance we traverse the tempestuous -Channel to the Irish coast, and call to mind the various crimes and -injuries which that ill-fated country has committed and received. -Returning to the spot whence we had travelled, beholding the creeks and -bays, the woods, and various agreeable accompaniments, which embellish -this majestic estuary; who is there that does not derive the highest -satisfaction in recalling to memory the beautiful scene in Cymbeline, -where Imogen, in the character of Fidele, has flowers sprinkled over her -grave, and a solemn dirge performed in honour of her memory?” - -Our reception at the miserable place of - - - -HUBBERSTON - - -did not induce us to stay longer than was sufficient to recruit -ourselves. We found the dirty inn pre-occupied by unfortunate Irish -refugees: their situation was indeed melancholy; driven from their -country, their friends, and all most dear to them!—And wishing to forget -their past sufferings, the following lines seem applicable to their -situation: - - “Oh! could oblivion’s friendly draught - Soothe all our sorrows to repose; - Nor that intruder, restless thought, - Renew our agonizing woes! - - “Then, all unconscious of the past, - The present hour might calmly glide; - Keen retrospect no more be cast - O’er life’s tempestuous, changeful tide: - - “Yet Heaven, to all its creatures kind, - With peace can gild the deepest gloom; - And, ’mid misfortune’s wrecks, the mind - May sweet serenity assume.” - -Having refreshed ourselves, we walked to - - - -MILFORD, - - -a small village, opposite Hubberston: several comfortable houses are -situated on the hill, commanding a delightful view of the haven. Such -was Milford when originally described in this work: but it now ranks as a -town of some consequence in Wales. The haven, from its extent and -safety, held forth such great inducements to improve the vicinity, and -gradually to raise it into consequence as a sea-port, that the Right Hon. -Charles Greville, whose property it became on the death of Sir W. -Hamilton, obtained an Act of Parliament for the building of the town, and -the privileges it was to enjoy. After having selected the situation, -which is one of the finest parts of the haven, Mr. G. laid down the -ground-plan of the streets: the principal ones run in parallel lines east -and west, and in the direction of the shore, with short streets of -communication intersecting them at right angles. The houses are -generally good, and many calculated for the residence of opulent -families. - -The church is near the haven, at the east end of the lowest street. The -windows contain the arms of Hamilton, Barlow, and Greville. The tower, -at the west end of the edifice, is very conspicuous in sailing up the -haven. The custom-house is at the lower end of the town, by the water -side. The dock-yards are immediately in front of the town: they are -calculated for the building of line-of-battle ships, as well as frigates: -it was formed after a plan by Lord Spencer. Packets are stationed here -under excellent regulations, for the conveyance of the mails and -passengers to Waterford. - -The mail from London arrives here every evening, and departs in the -morning. Markets are held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. - -To the west of Milford is Priory Pill, on the opposite bank of which is -Haking, or Old Milford. Wet docks were about to be established on this -creek, but the design was abandoned. Between Haking and Hubberstone is -the observatory and mathematical school. Being satisfied with our day’s -excursion, we again returned to our comfortable quarters at Tenby, which -we left with regret a few days afterwards. - -We again pursued the Pembroke road; and, about two miles from Tenby, the -neglected walls of - - - -CAREW CASTLE - - -invited curiosity;—and, - - “Deep struck with awe, we mark’d the dome o’erthrown, - Where once the beauty bloom’d, the warrior shone: - We saw the castle’s mouldering tow’rs decay’d, - The loose stone tott’ring o’er the trembling shade.” - -This castle, once the residence of the famous Sir Rhys ap Thomas, I -imagine, was intended more for a noble residence than a place of defence. -The walls of this building are very thick, and constructed with stones of -a large size, strongly cemented with mortar. It is situated on a branch -of Milford Haven, and consists of a range of apartments built round a -quadrangle, with a circular tower at each corner. The south wall is -entirely demolished; but the north consists of a spacious hall, measuring -one hundred and two feet by twenty, supposed to have been built by Sir -John Perrot: above and under this hall are noble apartments and extensive -offices. This castle appears to have been erected at different times, if -we may judge from the architecture. Every ledge of the walls of the -towers, denoting the different stories, was embossed with vegetation, -which seemed to grow from the solid stone. Over the gate-way, at the -west side, are the arms of England, Duke of Lancaster, and Carew; and -contiguous to this entrance is another spacious room, measuring eighty -feet by thirty. - -The village of Carew is poor: there is, by the side of the road, a cross, -fashioned out of a single stone, fourteen feet high, and carved all over. - -Leaving Carew, we crossed a small bridge over an arm of Milford Haven, -and continued our route across a barren and uninteresting heath; till, -descending to the village of - - - -CRESSELEY, - - -the luxuriant plantation of firs, belonging to Sir William Hamilton, -attracted our attention. Small vessels constantly frequent this quay, -from whence a quantity of small coal is shipped to different parts. From -hence the road is extremely barren and unpicturesque; but, about three -miles from - - - -LANDSHIPPING, - - -an arm of Milford Haven again burst upon our sight. Near it is situated -the uninhabited house of Sir William Owen. In crossing the ferry, Picton -Castle, the property of Lord Milford, formed a prominent feature in the -gay scene; and Slebitch, the seat of Mr. Philips, standing at the end of -the Haven, contributes considerably to this picturesque prospect. The -grounds of - - - -PICTON, - - -through which we passed, about five miles in extent, seemed to be well -planned, and kept in excellent order. This castle has always been -inhabited; and, having escaped the fate of all other castles in Wales, -during the civil wars, it retained, till very late, much of its original -external form. - -Mr. Fenton’s description of this noble spot is so correct and energetic, -that I shall, in justice to him, as well as to Picton, here insert it. -“Picton castle owes its beauties to circumstances that wealth cannot -supply, or titles confer; circumstances that age, and an unbroken line of -ancestry in its possessors, have given value to, and have made venerable; -an ancient structure, that nothing can so much disfigure as an attempt to -modernize, and make less so;—a castle (and I believe a solitary instance) -never forfeited, never deserted, never vacant; and that never knew a -melancholy blank in its want of a master; from whose walls hospitality -was never exiled, and whose governors might be said to have been -hereditary; a castle in the midst of possessions and forests coeval with -itself, and proudly looking down over a spacious domain, on woods of -every after-growth, to an inland sea, bounding its property and its -prospects beyond them; for such is Picton Castle.” - -The ground plan occupies an oblong area, having three large projecting -bastions on each side. At the east end was the grand gate, with a -portcullis between two similar bastions: this, without any injury to the -general aspect, has yielded to a modern entrance, as have the moat and -drawbridge, to a terrace, with an open parapet: the additions at the west -end are not so fortunate: they injure the appearance, but add to the -comforts of the castle, as a modern residence; affording Lord Milford -more ample scope for that noble hospitality which he so liberally -exercises according to the usage of his ancestors. - -Lord Milford possesses a fine cabinet of drawings by eminent masters, -collected in Italy by Sir Erasmus Phillips, his uncle. The park is well -wooded, but destitute of deer. The gardens, forcing-houses, &c. &c. are -very extensive, and in high order. - -A beautiful walk, which passes near the old encampment, called Castle -Lake, leads to Slebech, an ancient commandery of the Knights of St. John -of Jerusalem, but neither trace nor vestige of the old commandery are now -to be found. The church is ancient and respectable, but not large; it -contains two figures in alabaster, believed to be of the Barlow family. - -Returning again to Picton, at the extremity of the park, a good turnpike -road soon conducted us to - - - -HAVERFORDWEST, - - -which is considered as one of the largest towns in South Wales. It is -very irregularly built, on the declivity of a hill, which is in some -parts so very steep, that the ground-rooms frequently overlook the -neighbouring roofs; yet there are some good houses. It is considered as -a county of itself, and sends one member to parliament. The town was -formerly fortified by a strong wall, or rampart, on the western summit; -the shell of a once extensive castle is still remaining; this is now -converted into a gaol. - -The parade, commanding a cheerful view of the neighbouring country, and -the ruins of an ancient abbey, extends for a considerable way by the side -of a hill. At the extremity of this walk stand the ruins of an ancient -priory of black canons; the remains are now very inconsiderable, but we -easily traced the chapel, over one end of which is an arch, still in good -preservation, and beautifully enwreathed with a rich drapery of ivy. - -The castle, which was built by Gilbert de Clare, first Earl of Pembroke, -was a strong edifice; but the keep now only remains; and that has been -converted into a gaol. From its elevated situation, it has a commanding -appearance, and an air of ruined grandeur, more interesting than the -proudest modern edifice can boast. - -Haverford is called by the Welsh Hwlfordh. {88a} Having finished our -survey of Haverford, we started early the next morning, proposing to -breakfast at - - - -NEWGIN BRIDGE, - - -where we understood we should meet with every thing comfortable; but, to -our disappointment, we found a most miserable, dirty pot-house, destitute -of even the common comforts of life. I recollected Shenstone’s -complimentary lines on an inn, but could not apply them on the present -occasion: - - “Whoe’er has travell’d life’s dull round, - Where’er his stages may have been, - May sigh to think that he has found - The warmest welcome at an inn.” {88b} - -The road from Haverford to Newgin we found very uninteresting; and the -shell of - - - -ROACH CASTLE. - - -did not detain us long. It stands on a rocky eminence, now completely in -ruins, with only one tower remaining. “Roach Castle,” says Leland, “in -Rouseland, to the right of the road to St. David’s, shews a round and -some double out-works, visible at a great distance. It belonged to the -Lords Ferrars, and old Langeville, Knt. of Bucks.” - -In descending the hill to Newgin, the dark lowering rocks, which form -that fine bay, called St. Bride’s, exhibited a grand prospect. In the -centre of this bay is situated Newgin, bounded on the south by the island -of Skomar, and on the north by Ramsay. The fields adjacent to this place -have been frequently inundated by extraordinary overflowings of the sea: -at the reflux of the tide, the sands admit of most excellent walking. - -The saunter from hence to the city of - - - -ST. DAVID’S, - - -now properly deserving the name of a village, was rather more captivating -than our walk before breakfast: it was occasionally enlivened by the -prospect of the wide ocean, boundless to our view on one side, whilst -before us the fantastic shapes of the rocks off St. David’s Head -exhibited Nature in her most awful and striking attitudes. Above the -rest, Caern Thydy lifted its bold promontory, as if to give effect to the -true landscape. About half way between Newgin and St. David’s, the -beautiful little village of Solva unexpectedly burst upon our view, -studded with neat white-washed cottages, and enclosed on each side with -lofty rocks, which here form a picturesque and interesting chasm. These -rocks, indeed, I could almost imagine were torn asunder by some -convulsive rent of the earth. The cathedral, and dilapidated ruins of -the episcopal palace, are situated at the bottom of a steep hill, and -scarcely visible in the town: these, and the prebendal houses, were -formerly enclosed by a strong stone wall, with four gates, computed at -eleven hundred yards in circuit. David, {90} the national saint of -Wales, with the consent of King Arthur, is said to have removed the -metropolitan see from Caerleon to Menevia, which has ever since been -called Ty Dewi by the Welsh, and St. David by the English. What were the -condition and extent of this town formerly it is difficult to say, having -been so frequently destroyed. At present it is a very small city, and -has nothing to boast but its ruined palace and old cathedral, dedicated -to St. Andrew and St. David, which has often been demolished; but -rebuilt, in its present form, by Bishop Peter, according to Giraldus, in -the reign of King Henry II.; or, as Willis, in the year 1110, in Rhos -Vale, below the town. It is still esteemed a noble pile, consisting of -two transepts, measuring in length, from east to west, three hundred -feet; and the body, with the aisles, seventy-six feet broad. - -Behind the choir is a most beautiful chapel, with a rich roof of carved -stone, built by Vaughan, in the time of King Henry VIII., as a kind of -presbytery, between the choir and Lady Chapel. In the last, whose roof, -as well as those of the aisles of the choir and transepts, has been down -ever since the civil war, are monuments of three bishops, and in the -nave, &c. four or five more. In the north wall of the choir is the -shrine of St. David; a kind of altar tomb, with a canopy of four pointed -arches, and in front four quatrefoil holes, into which the votaries put -their offerings, which were taken out by the monks at two iron doors -behind. In the choir are also the monuments of Owen Tudor, second -husband of Queen Catharine, Rhys ap Tudor, {91a} Bishops Jorweth and -Anselm, in the thirteenth century, and Edmund, Earl of Richmond, father -of King Henry VII. This last monument is said to have prevented King -Henry VIII. from removing the see to Caermarthen. Giraldus Cambrensis, -who was archdeacon of Brecon, canon of Hereford, and rector of -Chesterton, Oxford, was buried here in 1213. {91b} On the north side of -the church are some walls of St. Mary’s College, founded by Bishop -Houghton, and John of Gaunt, in 1365, valued at one hundred and six -pounds per annum. {91c} - -It is much to be regretted, that so little regard has been paid to the -internal appearance of this noble pile; the whole of it has lately been -white-washed, which gives it too much the air of a modern building: the -external part, I am sorry to add, has been equally neglected; and the -chapels and monuments exposed to the wanton mischief of boys and idle -people. The stone, likewise, with which it is built, is of so soft a -substance, that it even moulders with the touch of the finger; but -possibly it may, by being exposed to the air, like the Bath stone, become -more solid; and, when by time it shall have acquired a darker hue, may -then better correspond with the original building. - -The Bishop’s Palace now stands a monument of desolation; and as we walked -over the loose fragments of stone, which are scattered through the -immense area of the fabric, the images of former times rose to -reflection,—when the spacious hall stood proudly in its original -splendor; when the long aisles of the chapel were only responsive to the -solemn, slow-breathed chant. In this palace is a very long room, -purposely erected for the reception of King John: at the extremity of it -is a circular window, of very elegant and curious workmanship. - -According to Le Neve, Dubritius, Archbishop of Caerleon, is called by -this title, as Archbishop of Wales, at the first establishment of the -Christian religion in the British islands. Godwin fixes no time of his -coming in, but only says, that he, waxing old, resigned his see to David, -a disciple of his; that he died, and was buried in the isle of Bardsee, -Nov. 14, 522. - -David removed the see, as before stated, from Caerleon to Menevia; and, -by the time Godwin allows him to sit, viz. sixty-five years, and to die -in 642, we may suppose he came in in 577. It is said he lived to a great -age, viz. 146 years; and, dying in 642, as is aforesaid, was buried in -the cathedral which himself had caused to be built; and his successors -shewed so great a respect to his memory, as to call the see by his name, -which it still retains, they for a long time afterwards styling -themselves Archbishops of St. David’s; of these (including David) there -were twenty-five, with Sampson, who, by reason of a contagious sickness -in his diocese, retiring into Bretagne, and taking his pall with him, his -successors, either for want of that, or by some other occasion, lost -their title of Archbishop; but yet for several years they held the -archiepiscopal power of consecrating bishops, which was exercised under -twenty-two of them, down to Bishop Bernard, who was consecrated in 1115. -He, by command of King Henry I., resigned this power to the see of -Canterbury. From this period, down to the time of Bishop Vaughan, it had -many benefactors; amongst whom, as most prominent, stand the names of -Peter de Leia, Bishops Gervase, Beck, Martin, Gower, and Vaughan. - -“During this interval,” says Mr. Rees, “St. David’s acquired the highest -celebrity; and the shrine of the founder was resorted to by the greatest -monarchs of the age. In the list of these royal visitors are to be -included the names of William the Conqueror, who made his pilgrimage in -1079; King Henry the Second, who honoured Bishop David Fitzgerald with -his company in 1171; and King Edward the First, and Eleanor his queen, -who made their pilgrimage in 1284, when Bishop Beck held the see. The -pilgrims of inferior rank who resorted here were innumerable, and their -offerings served greatly to enrich the ecclesiastics, who spared no pains -to enhance the merit of the penance, by which the poor votaries thus -soothed their consciences, and emptied their pockets.” {94} - -Giraldus gives us a true description of the country round St. David’s, -representing it as “a stony, barren, unimprovable territory, undecked -with woods, undivided by rivers, unadorned with meadows, exposed only to -wind and storm.” Such, indeed, is the state and situation of St. -David’s; and, the environs having no hedges to divide the property of the -farmers, the sheep, and even the geese, are all tethered together. - -In this now dilapidated city was born Asserius, Bishop of Sherbourne, who -wrote a life of King Alfred, and is supposed to have been instrumental in -inducing that Prince to found the University of Oxford. - -The walk to St. David’s Head, though barren, represents a view striking -and awful; sublimity gives place to elegance: yet what is it to view?—a -boundless waste of ocean;—not a glimpse of smiling nature,—not a patch of -vegetation, to relieve the aching sight, or vary the objects of -admiration. The rocks on this shore are shaken into every possible shape -of horror; and, in many parts, resemble the convulsions of an earthquake, -splintered, shivered, and amassed. On these rocks stood the famous -rocking stone, or _Y mean sigl_; which, “though twenty yoke of oxen could -not move it, might be shaken with the slightest touch.” We understand it -was thrown off its balance, by order of the farmer, to prevent the -curious from trampling on his grounds. “A mile straight west from St. -David’s, betwixt Portclais and Porthmaur,” {95} is the shell of Capel -Stinen, St. Stinan’s or St. Justinian’s chapel. - -From this spot is an extensive view of Whitsand Bay, called by the Welsh -_Porth Maur_, or the Great Bay; in which stand the six rocks, called the -Bishop and his Clerks. Half a league from hence is - - - -RAMSEY ISLE, - - -half a mile long, and three quarters broad, and divided into two -considerable farms. The whole island is well stocked with rabbits; and, -during the spring, the Razorbill, Puffin, and Harry birds, resort here in -flocks. It has undergone many changes from the continual wearing of the -waves. There is a tradition, that the embarkation for Ireland anciently -took place at Ramsey; but sailors doubt the truth of this circumstance, -from the circumstances of the tides. Our walk from St. David’s to - - - -FISHGUARD - - -afforded us little room for observation; the eye, however, kept in view a -wide range of the unbounded ocean; till, dim with exertion, it by degrees -reposed on the dark lowering rocks, which, disregarding the angry roar of -the waves, seemed to project their broad sides, to augment the idle -tumult. Quitting the turnpike road, in search of the place where the -French effected their landing, in the year 1797, we passed a neat house, -called Caergwent, belonging to Mrs. Harris. The kind attentions of a -farmer, in the neighbourhood of this memorable spot, claim our warmest -acknowledgments. Having finished a most comfortable meal at Mr. -Mortimer’s house (which, during the confusion, was considered the -head-quarters of the French, commanded by General Tate), he explained all -the minutiæ respecting this circumstance; and very obligingly pointed out -the situation of their camp, and related many entertaining and -interesting anecdotes. Deeply impressed with gratitude towards Mr. M. -for his civilities, we soon arrived at Goodric sands. This spot was very -judiciously selected by Lord Cawdor, as a proper place for the French to -lay down their arms; for, had they resisted, a cannonade of grape-shot, -from a neighbouring fortress, would have instantly played upon them. -Fishguard stands on a steep rock, with a convenient harbour, formed by -the river Gwain; though its situation and bay are interesting, it is by -no means a desirable place to remain long at. - -Several druidical monuments {96} engaged our attention, as we drew near - - - -NEWPORT, - - -called by Giraldus, Llanhever, or the Town on the river Nevern. The -fragments of the castle are too insignificant to invite the curiosity of -the passing traveller: it was demolished by Llewellyn, Prince of South -Wales, when possessed by the Flemings. - -The country beyond Newport presented a more pleasing countenance: wood, -water, hill, and vale, all unite, even to induce the plodding citizen to -pause, and wish to spend the evening of his days in the vicinity of its -enchantment. In this interesting situation we found the village of -Velindre:—we here particularly observed the slaty quality of the hills, -and could not avoid condemning the folly of the inhabitants of Velindre -in building their cottages of mud, and sparingly covering them with -straw, when Nature herself seemed to place comforts, if not luxuries, -before their view. But, perhaps, these reproaches were ill-grounded; for -thus veiled in obscurity, they were happy, as they knew not enough of the -world seriously to regret the want of these conveniences: their -situation, indeed, seemed to verify the philosophical sentiment of Gray: - - “Since ignorance is bliss, - ’Tis folly to be wise.” - -For though they suffer the extremes of filth and penury, yet they enjoy -the two inestimable blessings, health and felicity. The broken towers of - - - -KILGERRAN CASTLE - - -soon attracted our notice. The relics of this ruin stand on a point of -rock, impending over the river Tyvi, whose beauty time had only impaired -to heighten its grandeur. Two imperfect circular towers, and the -fragments of a wall, now only remain. - -The river Tyvi, I imagine, abounds with fish, as we observed at every -door in the village of Kilgerran a coracle. {98} The construction of -this little water conveyance is remarkably simple, and intended solely -for the use of fishing: a thick skin, or coarse pitched canvas, is -stretched over wicker-work. This singular fishing-boat conveys only one -man, who manages it with the greatest adroitness imaginable; the right -hand being employed in using the paddle, the left in conducting the net, -and the teeth in holding the line. Two coracles generally co-operate, to -assist each other in fishing: they usually measure about five feet long, -and four broad, and are rounded at the corners; and, after the labours of -the day, are conveyed on their backs to the little cots of the fishermen, -being looked upon as a necessary appendage to the cottage door. - -Description can scarcely suggest the full magnificence and beauty of the -saunter from hence to Cardigan: the valley, about two miles in extent, -seemed to possess all that nature inherits; sloping hills, two hundred -feet high, covered with wood, from the water’s edge to their highest -summit, and at the most acceptable distances, and truly happy situations, -interrupted by a bold, naked, and projecting rock; whilst the broad and -translucid stream of the Tyvi reflects, as in a mirror, the blackness of -the impending shades. The retrospect commands the romantic ruins of -Kilgerran castle, whose mutilated walls close this delicious landscape. -The whole valley bears a strong resemblance to the situation of the -celebrated Piercefield. As this spot is entirely lost by keeping the -turnpike road, it is advisable for travellers in general, to hire a boat -from Cardigan to Kilgerran: this our humble and less encumbered mode of -travelling rendered unnecessary. - -Near Kilgerran are Castle Maelgyn, and Pentre, the seat of Dr. Davies; -both handsome modern mansions, surrounded by pleasing gardens and -plantations. - -At Lechryd, not far from Kilgerran, extensive tin-works are carried on by -Sir Benjamin Hamet. Having already examined works of this nature at -Neath, we preferred the romantic vale of Kilgerran; as to accomplish both -would have occupied too much time. We entered the town of - - - -CARDIGAN - - -over a handsome stone bridge, built over the Tyvi, which is here of -considerable width. In front of this stands, on a steep eminence, the -castle, consisting chiefly of its outer walls, which prove it to have -been once a considerable building. This place, considered the principal -town of the county, is called by the Britons Aberteivi; which name it -receives from standing near the mouth of the river Tyvi. It was -fortified, together with the castle, by Gilbert, son of Richard Clare, -and demolished by Rhees ap Gryffith. - -Cardigan had once a strong castle; but it was destroyed in the civil -wars, and an elegant mansion erected on its site by Mr. Bowen: the -cellars of which were anciently the dungeons of the keep. At the end of -the bridge is a chapel, said to be erected on the spot where Giraldus -preached the Crusade. - -The town is large and regular; its chief trade consisting in lead, -exported to Ireland. It sends one member to Parliament, and gives the -title of Earl to the family of Brudenell. The Church is large, and well -built, with a handsome tower. The new gaol, finished in the year 1797, -is conveniently situated, and appears to be a well-planned building. One -mile from Cardigan is - - - -ST. DOGMAEL’S ABBEY, - - -called, by Leland, {101} a “Priory of Bonhommes.” The Monasticon places -this house amongst the Benedictines; but it was that strict and reformed -sort of Benedictines, called the Order of Tiron, founded by Martin of -Tours, who conquered the country of Cemmeis, about the time of King -William the Conqueror. Part of the ruins is now converted into a chapel, -for the convenience of the vicinity. St. Dogmael’s is now a mere fishing -village. - -At the second mile-stone, in our road from Cardigan to the village of - - - -LLANARTH, - - -we halted a short time, to take a retrospect of the country we had -passed. From this spot, the town and castle of Cardigan, standing on an -eminence, in the centre of a broad valley, and encircled with hills, -beautifully introduced themselves to our view. From hence to - - - -ABERAERON, - - -grand sea prospects continued to enliven our route;—whilst the faint and -still fainter hues of the coast of Ireland appeared just visibly skirting -the distant horizon. Aberaeron is situated in a vale, near the conflux -of the river Aeron with the sea: from whence it receives its name; Aber -signifying the mouth of any thing. - -The entrenchment, mentioned by Sael, in his Collection of Tours, about a -mile from Aberaeron, is now almost washed away by daily encroachments of -the sea. We lamented that the druidical sepulchral monuments, mentioned -by the same author, were inadvertently passed unnoticed by us. - -In this day’s journey we still continued to indulge the sublime emotions, -which an unconfined view of the ocean always inspires; a serene day, with -partial gleams of sunshine, gave magical effects to the scenery; and the -sea was enlivened with many a vessel, passing each other in various -directions, and contributing to render the terrific ocean beautiful. -Before us, the towering mountains of Merionethshire glittered in all -those colours of beauty, which constitute the sublime; and we appeared -only to climb one hill to view others still rising in endless -perspective: over the whole was diffused the rich glow of evening; and -the distant mountains were variegated by the parting tinge of lingering -day. A neat Church, backed by romantic hills, animated the village of -Llanrysted. Three miles from - - - -ABERYSTWITH, - - -we paused at Llanryan bridge, to admire the rich banks rising on each -side of the river Ystwith, over which this bridge is thrown; it is built -in the style of the celebrated Pont-y-prid, in the vale of -Glamorganshire. We entered the town of Aberystwith over a temporary -wooden bridge. {102} In the year 1796, a stone bridge experienced the -same fate with many others in Wales, occasioned by a sudden thaw: Mr. -Edwards, from Dolgelly, has lately erected another, by contract, -consisting of six arches. - -Aberystwith, partaking much of the dirt of seaports in general, is -situated at the termination of the vale of Rhyddol, in the bay of -Cardigan, and open to St. George’s Channel. The environs are stony and -rugged; the coast affords indifferent bathing, being much exposed; and -the shore is rough and unpleasant. In fine, it is, in almost all -respects, the reverse of Tenby, except it has the advantage in the number -of houses, and, consequently, more company. At the extremity of the -town, upon an eminence, stand the ruins of an ancient castle, of which -little now remains but a solitary tower, overlooking a wide expanse of -sea. It was rendered famous, by being, at one time, the residence of the -great Cadwalader, and in all the Welsh wars was considered as a fortress -of great strength: it was built by Gilbert Strongbow, in the year 1107, -and rebuilt by King Edward I. in 1277, a few years before his complete -conquest of Wales. The ruin of the castle now affords a pleasant walk. - -At this castle Edmund Goodere, Esq. farmer of the mines royal in the -county of Cardigan, had letters patent, 13th of Charles I., to erect a -mint for coinage of such silver as was raised from the said mines royal -in Wales; but the castle and houses for the mint were destroyed by the -civil war. On the 6th of March, 1646, on his petition to this effect, -the smelting house, near the refining mills, was appropriated by -Parliament to this purpose, till the castle should be refitted. - -But what formerly rendered this town more considerable, were the rich -lead mines in its vicinity. These mines are said to have yielded near a -hundred ounces of silver from a ton of lead, and to have produced a -profit of two thousand pounds a month. Sir Hugh Middleton here made the -vast fortune, which he afterwards expended on the New River, constructed -for the purpose of supplying the northern side of London with water. But -Thomas Bushell raised these mines to their greatest height: an indenture -was granted to him by King Charles I. for the coining of silver pieces, -to be stamped with ostrich feathers on both sides, for the benefit of -paying his workmen. This gentleman was afterwards appointed governor of -Lundy Isle. The most considerable lead mine was that of -Bwlch-yr-Eskir-his, discovered in the year 1690. The ore was here so -near the surface, that the moss and grass in some places scarcely covered -it. {104} - -Close to the site of the old castle, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley, in -Herefordshire, has erected a fantastic house in the castellated form, -intended merely as a summer residence. - -Aberystwith has of late years been in all respects greatly improved; for -being the principal place of summer resort for bathing and pleasure from -North Wales and the adjacent English counties, every inducement has been -held forth that could attract company from its new competitors: the roads -are now good, and the inns and accommodations excellent. The population -consists of 2,397 persons. - -The bathing is well conducted, and although the beach, as at most of our -watering places, is formed of pebbles, still there are generally good -sands to bathe on at all hours of the tide. During the season assemblies -are held here as at Brighton, Ramsgate, and other English sea-bathing -places. Formerly, the town-hall likewise served as a theatre, but -another building has now been erected for that purpose. Notwithstanding -Aberystwith is prevented by the sand bar at the entrance from receiving -vessels of large tonnage, still its trade is considerable and increasing, -carried on by vessels from 250 tons burthen down to 18. - -Mr. Meyrick’s remarks with respect to this port are perfectly correct. -“Were two piers made on those ridges of the rock called the Wey, which -afford the strongest foundations, the harbour would be handsome, -capacious, and convenient. Besides, by cutting a passage across the road -to the north of the town, and carrying it along the marsh into the sea, -for the Rhyddol, just at the angle it makes when it takes a south-west -course, an excellent back-water would be at hand, and would clear away -any bar that might be formed at the mouth of the harbour, and keep it -free from mud.” - -It has two markets in the week; Monday for butter, &c., and Saturday for -meat, besides which, it is generally well supplied with fish, with which -it furnishes the interior of the country as far as Shrewsbury and -Worcester. The views from the castle and cliffs, not only over Cardigan -Bay, but over the cloud-capped summits of Cader Idris and Snowdon, are -extensive and sublime. - -We determined to pursue the banks of the meandering Rhyddol, in -preference to the turnpike road, in our way to Havod. - -This valley comprehends every thing that constitutes the beautiful; it is -enclosed by high mountains on each side, vegetating to their summits; -indeed, all the tints of verdure and diversity of foliage here introduced -themselves in one view; the Rhyddol struggling with the huge masses of -rock,—its never-ceasing, tumultuous motion,—its sparkling foam;—in fine, -every thing that can be imagined, by the most enthusiastic admirer of -nature, is blended in this short excursion:— - - —“_is not this vale_ - More free from peril than the envious courts? - Here feel we but the penalty of Adam, - The season’s difference, as the icy fang - And churlish chiding of the winter’s wind.” - - SHAKSPEARE. - -“The vale of Rhyddol,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is a very grand and extensive -scene, continuing not less than ten miles, among rocks, hanging woods, -and varied ground, which, in some parts, become mountainous: while the -river is every where a beautiful object; and twice or three times, in its -passage through the vale, is interrupted in its course, and formed into a -cascade. This is a circumstance in a _vale_, I think, rather uncommon. -In a contracted _valley_ it is frequent: but _an extended vale_ is seldom -so interrupted as not to give way to the river on one side or the other.” - -To the inquisitive pedestrian (for this vale is inaccessible for -carriages), the old Church of Llanbadem Vawr, which signifies the Church -of Great Paternus, a native of Bretagne, is particularly interesting; -who, as the writer of his life expresses it, “by feeding governed, and by -governing fed the Church of Cretica.” To his memory this Church, and -formerly an episcopal see was founded; but the bishopric, as Roger -Hovedon writes, “early declined, because the parishioners slew their -pastor.” {107} As we draw near the - - - -DEVIL’S BRIDGE, - - -a long chain of mountains excited our admiration, encircled half way down -with a thick mist, similar in appearance to a girdle: this circumstance -seems to justify the bold imagery and beautiful description of a mountain -given by the Poet: - - “As some tall cliff that lifts its awful form, - Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the storm; - Though round its breast the rolling clouds are spread, - Eternal sunshine settles on its head.” - - GOLDSMITH. - -The comfortable inn, situated near this romantic spot, stands in front of -the River Rhyddol, and commanding the most picturesque view fancy can -paint, was built by the respectable and truly hospitable owner of Havod. - -This celebrated Bridge, so much the object of curiosity and admiration, -is so completely environed with trees, that many travellers, not intent -upon deep investigation, or in pursuit of Nature’s landscapes, may pass -over it without the least suspicion of the dreadful aperture, or the -ancient structure that conveys them over the gulf. On the eastern side -we descended a deep and treacherous bank, consisting of slate rock, or -laminac, I should imagine, near an hundred feet: this is the computed -measurement; but the eye, confused by the awfulness of the scene, loses -its faculty of judging. From this spot the vast chine, or chasm over -which the bridge is thrown, is seen to great advantage. The whole of -this fissure was probably occasioned by some convulsion of Nature, as -each indenture seems to correspond with the opposite protuberance. Under -the bridge the river Mynach, in its confined course, meeting with -obstructions of massy rock, and fragments of prodigious size, rushes -through the chasm with irresistible violence. - -This bridge is called in Welsh Pont-ar Fynach, or Mynach Bridge; it -consists of two arches, one thrown over the other. The foundation of the -under one is of great antiquity, and vulgarly attributed to the invention -of the Devil; it is supposed to have been erected as far back as the year -1087, in the reign of King William II., by the Monks of Strata Florida -Abbey, the ruins of which are still visible, about ten miles from hence. -Gerald mentions his passing over it, when he accompanied Baldwin, -Archbishop of Canterbury, at the time of the Crusades, in the year 1188, -and in the reign of King Richard I. The original arch being suspected to -be in a ruinous condition, the present bridge was built over it, at the -expense of the county, in the year 1753. The width of the chasm is -estimated at about thirty feet. - -Our Cicerone first conducted us to a fall on the river Rhyddol, -unobserved in Walker’s Description of the Devil’s Bridge, and unnoticed -by Warner. The character of this fall is remarkably singular: a huge -fragment of rock, projecting over the river for a considerable way, -precipitates the water in a singular and almost inexpressible direction: -the rocks are occasionally variegated by the dark foliage of underwood, -and sometimes barren, rugged, and impending. - -Description cannot suggest the full magnificence of the prospect which -spread before us, on our arrival at the grand Fall of the Mynach; for -though it may paint the grandeur of the elegance of outline, yet it -cannot equal the archetypes of Nature, or draw the minute features, that -reward the actual observer at every new choice of his position: reviewing -this thundering cataract, in the leisure of recollection, these nervous -lines of Thomson seem to describe much of the scene: - - “Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood - Rolls fair and placid, where collected all - In one impetuous torrent, down the steep - It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round. - At first an azure sheet, it rushes broad; - Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls, - And from the loud resounding rocks below - Dash’d in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft - A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower. - Nor can the tortured wave here find repose: - But raging still amid the shaggy rocks, - Now flashes o’er the scatter’d fragments, now - Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts; - And falling fast from gradual slope to slope, - With wild infracted course and lessen’d roar, - It gains a safer bed, and steals at last - Along the mazes of the quiet vale.” - -The following table, taken from Walker’s Description of the Devil’s -Bridge, gives the exact height from the top of the bridge to the water -underneath; and the different falls from thence till the Mynach delivers -itself into the Rhyddol below. - - -FALLS, &c. - - Feet -From the bridge to the water 114 - First fall 18 - Second ditto 60 - Third ditto 20 - Grand cataract 110 -From the bridge to the Rhyddol 322 - -The rocks on each side of the fall rise perpendicularly to the height of -eight hundred feet, and are finely clothed with the richest vegetation to -the loftiest summit. - -Near the basin of the first fall from the bridge we entered a dark -cavern, formerly inhabited by a set of robbers, two brothers and a -sister, called Plant Mat, or Plant Hat, signifying Matthew’s Children. -Tradition reports, that they committed various depredations in the -neighbourhood, and lived concealed in this “specus horrendum” for many -years, from the keen research of “day’s garish eye.” The entrance just -admits sufficient light to make “darkness visible.” - -With regret we left this romantic spot; where, if retirement ever had -“local habitation,” this was her “place of dearest residence.” “One -excursion,” says Mr. Cumberland, “to this place, will not suffice common -observers; nor indeed many, to the lovers of the grand sports of Nature.” -“The Mynach,” in another place he describes, “coming down from beneath -the Devil’s Bridge, has no equal for height or beauty that I know of; -for, although a streamlet to the famous fall of Narni in Italy, yet it -rivals it in height, and surpasses it in elegance. - -“After passing deep below the bridge, as through a narrow firth, with -noises loud and ruinous, into a confined chasm, the fleet waters pour -headlong and impetuous, and leaping from rock to rock, with fury -literally lash the mountain’s sides; sometimes almost imbowered among -deep groves, and flashing at last into a fanlike form, the fall rattling -among the loose stones of the Devil’s Hole—where, to all appearance, it -shoots into a gulf beneath, and silently steals away: for so much is -carried off in spray, during the incessant repercussions it experiences, -in this long tortuous shoot, that in all probability, not half the water -arrives at the bottom of its found and sullen grave.” - -Four miles from hence, on the Llandiloe’s road, is situated - - - -HAVOD or HAFOD, - - -the celebrated seat of the late Mr. Johnes. The former part of the road -is barren and uninteresting; but, on our first entrance into the grounds, -all our past complaints were lost in expressions of admiration. “A -philosopher has said,” says a modern Tourist, “that the man, who makes -two blades of grass grow, where only one grew before, is greater than the -greatest hero. If this be true, Mr. Johnes must rank before all the -conquerors of the world, as he has made the barren wilderness around him -to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods, luxuriant -corn-fields, and pastures.” From October 1795, to April 1801, Mr. Johnes -planted more than 2,065,000 trees; besides a great number of acres, that -he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plantations have been -extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two hundred -thousand trees being planted every year. The Mansion is a very elegant -piece of architecture, built of Portland stone, and the plan entirely -novel, being a mixture of the Moorish and Gothic, with turrets and -painted windows. The whole of it indeed does great credit to the -architect, Mr. Baldwyn of Bath. It is situated near the banks of the -river Ystwith, and beautifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with -oak. The interior of the house corresponds in elegance with the -exterior. - -From the hall we were conducted through a suite of elegant apartments, -very judiciously fitted up with paintings, statues, and antiques; but the -Library more particularly engaged our notice, containing a choice and -valuable collection of books: this octagonal room is built in the form of -a dome with a gallery round it, supported by a colonnade of variegated -marble pillars of the ancient Doric order, with a circular window at top -for the admission of light. We entered through a handsome door, inlaid -with a large reflecting mirror: immediately opposite is another door of -transparent plate-glass, leading to the conservatory, three hundred feet -in length, and containing a number of curious and rare exotics, with a -walk down the centre of the building. In fine, the effect of the _tout -ensemble_ can better be imagined than described. - -Amongst the other things worthy of admiration, a handsome statue, in the -library, of Thetis dipping Achilles in the river Styx, more particularly -detains attention. We next passed through the Billiard-room, and were -conducted to the top of the staircase, to admire two elegant paintings, -the subjects taken from Captain Cook’s Voyages: the painter is unknown. -Many of the rooms are beautifully furnished with rich Gobelin tapestry. - -To give my readers a just conception of the beauties of Havod, I shall -beg leave to borrow the elegant description of it, drawn by the pen of -Mr. Cumberland. - - “Havod is a place in itself so pre-eminently beautiful, that it - highly merits a particular description. It stands surrounded with so - many noble scenes, diversified with elegance as well as with - grandeur; the country on the approach to it is so very wild and - uncommon, and the place itself is now so embellished by art, that it - will be difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that can be put in - competition with it, considered either as the object of the painter’s - eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable residence for those who, - admirers of the beautiful wildness of Nature, love also to inhale the - pure air of aspiring mountains, and enjoy that _santo pacé_, as the - Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made - social by a family circle. - - “From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding vale; the - undulating form of whose ascending, shaggy sides, are richly clothed - with various foliage, broken with silver waterfalls, and crowned with - climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds. - - “Neither are the luxuries of life absent; for on the margin of the - Ystwith, where it flows broadest through this delicious vale, we see - hot-houses and a conservatory: beneath the rocks a bath; amid the - recesses of the woods a flower garden; and, within the building, - whose decorations, though rich, are pure and simple, we find a mass - of rare and valuable literature, whose pages here seem doubly - precious, where meditation finds scope to range unmolested. - - “In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the scenery of this - place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any taste, that the - impression on mine was increased, after an interval of ten years from - the first visit, employed chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the - Apennines, the Sabine Hills, and the Tyrolese; along the shores of - the Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; - where, though in search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so - fine—never so many pictures concentred in one spot; so that, warmed - by the renewal of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged - to attempt a description of the hitherto almost virgin haunts of - these obscure mountains. - - “Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, at intervals, - with fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and - wonderfully picturesque beauty. Downton Castle has a delicious woody - vale, most tastefully managed; Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of - the Conway savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great - Pistill Rhayader is horribly wild; Rhayader Wennol gay, and - gloriously irregular,—each of which merits a studied description. - - “But at Havod, and its neighbourhood, I find the effects of all in - one circle; united with this peculiarity, that the deep dingles, and - mighty woody slopes, which, from a different source, conduct the - Rhyddol’s never-failing waters from Plynlimmon, and the Fynache, are - of an unique character, as mountainous forests, accompanying gigantic - size with graceful forms; and taken altogether, I see ‘the sweetest - interchange of hill and valley, rivers, woods and plains, and falls, - with forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’ insomuch, that it - requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with Milton— - - ‘All things that be send up from earth’s great altar - Silent praise!’ - - “There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through ways - artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept clean, and - composed of materials found on the spot; which is chiefly a coarse - stone, of a greyish cast, friable in many places, and like slate, but - oftener consisting of immense masses, that cost the miner, in making - some parts of these walks, excessive labour; for there are places - where it was necessary to perforate the rock many yards, in order to - pass a promontory, that, jutting across the way, denied further - access; and to go round which you must have taken a great tour, and - made a fatiguing descent. As it is the walks are so conducted, that - few are steep; the transitions easy, the returns commodious, and the - branches distinct. Neither are they too many, for much is left for - future projectors; and if a man be stout enough to range the - underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all trodden paths, he - may, almost every where, stroll from the studied line, till he be - glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well-known way. - - “Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best - points of view by the general routine; for all that is here done has - been to remove obstructions, reduce the materials, and conceal the - art; and we are no where presented with attempts to force the untamed - streams, or indeed to invent any thing where Nature, the great - mistress, has left all art behind.” - -Such was the just description of Havod; but this magnificent mansion, -with the costly furniture, plate, pictures, and above all to be -regretted, the splendid library of scarce and valuable books, was -consumed by fire, during the absence of the owner, on the 13th of March, -1807. - -All that the most indefatigable industry could accomplish was done by Mr. -Johnes, to replace the losses he had sustained; but the Welsh -manuscripts, and many other valuable works and specimens of art here -destroyed, no labour or money could restore. The actual pecuniary loss -suffered by Mr. Johnes, over and above the 20,000_l._ he was insured, -amounted to between 50 and 60,000_l._; but, like the destruction of the -labours of Lord Mansfield and Dr. Priestley, no estimate can be put on -the loss the proprietor and the world experienced, in thus rendering -abortive forty years of study, research, and expenditure on literary -valuables. Prior to the decease of Mr. Johnes, who did not long survive -his loss, the exterior of the building was nearly restored to its former -appearance; but the interior arrangement was considerably altered. He -likewise again established a most sumptuous collection of books, &c. part -of which, the Pesaro library, was on its way from Italy, having been -purchased by Mr. Johnes prior to the conflagration: it comprises many -very valuable books in the Spanish, French, and particularly the Italian -language, rare editions of the classics, and almost all the productions -of the Aldine press. - -A minute description of the interior of Havod, prior to the fire, is -given by Mr. Malkin, which is now particularly interesting. -Unfortunately no catalogue of the books and manuscripts was ever taken, -Mr. Johnes not having completed his collection. - - -THE GENIUS OF HAVOD. - - - Formal slaves of art, avaunt! - This is Nature’s secret haunt: - The Genius of the landscape, I - Guard it, with a jealous eye— - Guard it, that no footstep rude - Upon her privacy intrude. - Here, with mystic maze, her throne - Is girt, accessible to none: - But to the highly-honour’d few - To whom I deign to lend my clue; - And chief to him, who in this grove, - Devotes his life to share her love: - From whom she seeks no charms to hide, - For whom she throws her veil aside, - Instructing him to spread abroad - Scenes for Salvator—or for Claude. - Far, oh far hence, let Brown and Eames - Zig-zag their walks, and torture streams! - But let them not my dells profane, - Or violate my Naiad train: - Nor let their arrogance invade - My meanest Dryad’s secret shade, - And with fantastic knots disgrace - The native honours of the place— - Making the vet’ran oak give way, - Some spruce exotic to display: - Their petty labours he defy’d, - Who Taste and Nature would divide! - - ANON. - -We now for many miles passed a barren, dreary country, completely -encircled with hills; and we only climbed one to observe others still -rising in the distant perspective: not even a house or tree appeared to -interrupt the awfulness of the mountains, which, after the copious fall -of rain in the night, teemed with innumerable cataracts. According to -our directions, we enquired at the foot of Plinlimmon for Rhees Morgan, -as a proper man to be our conductor over the heights of the “fruitful -father of rivers.” This man being absent, the whole family appeared -thunderstruck at our appearance, and ran with all haste imaginable into -their miserable cot. One apartment served for the inhabitants of every -description, with only one small hole to admit the light; the entrance -unprotected by a door, but with a blanket as a substitute, was exposed to -the pitiless blast of the winter’s storm. - - “Ah! little think the gay licentious proud, - Whom pleasure, power, and affluence surround: - They, who their thoughtless hours in giddy mirth, - And wanton, often cruel, riot waste; - Ah! little think they while they dance along, - . . . . . . . . . . . - . . . . how many drink the cup - Of baleful grief, or eat the bitter bread - Of misery. Sore pierced by wintry winds, - How many shrink into the sordid hut - Of cheerless poverty.” - - THOMSON. - -With some difficulty we prevailed on the female part of the family to -give us proper directions to the source of the meandering Wye, {119} and -rapid Severn. The latter they only understood by the name of Halfren, -its original British name; it is likewise called in Latin, Sabrina. From -the top of Plinlimmon we for the first time discovered the shaggy summit -of Cader Idris, and the spiral head of Snowdon. “With respect to -Plinlimmon mountain,” says Mr. Malkin, “it is inferior only to Snowdon -and Cader Idris; if to the latter, in point of size and height. It takes -its name from five beacons; many of which, if not all, still remain, and -are seen at some distance. We may indeed compare Plinlimmon with those -formidable personages of poetical creation, who walk with their feet upon -the earth, and their heads in the region of the heavens.” There is -nothing particularly engaging in the character of this mountain, except -in its giving rise to no less than six or eight rivers, and, on this -account, has frequently been celebrated by the Poet. Though its summit -commands a circle of many miles diameter, yet the prospect by no means -answered our expectations. We descended into a swampy bottom, which -afforded us unpleasant walking for two or three miles, when a most -delightful and well-cultivated valley unexpectedly enlivened our spirits. -The sun was making - - . . . . “a golden set, - And by the bright track of his fiery car - Gave signal of a goodly day to-morrow,” - -just as we entered this interesting vale; the hay-makers, in the coolness -of the evening, were returning to their homes, - - “Each by the lass he loved.” - -In short, the whole valley breathed delicious fragrance: add to this, -innumerable cataracts rushed from the mountain’s summits, occasioned by -the late copious rains. - -From hence a good turnpike road soon conducted us to the romantic town of - - - -MACHYNLLETH, - - -considered as the centre of the woollen manufactory in this part of the -country, principally of the strong cloth, or high country cloth. {121} -The situation of Machynlleth (or as it is pronounced by the Welsh, -Mahunthleth), is extremely romantic; stupendous mountains forming a -natural rampart round the town. This town is supposed to have been the -Maglona of the Romans, and where, in the name of Honorius, a lieutenant -was stationed to awe the mountaineers. It is 206 miles from London, and -33 from Montgomery: its population, 1,595 persons. We here visited the -neglected mansion where Owen Glyndour assembled the states of the -principality, in the year 1402, and accepted from their hands the crown -of Wales. Part of the house is now converted into a butcher’s shop:— - - “Sic transit gloria mundi.” - -In fine, the only evident remains of its ever having been celebrated in -the annals of history, is a spacious door-way. The town itself, in many -parts, bears the appearance of antiquity: the streets are considerably -wider than Welsh towns in general, and the market-place is well-built: -tanning and the manufacture of flannels and webs constitute the principal -employment of the inhabitants. - -As we entered Machynlleth, being the first town in North Wales, we were -in a manner instinctively induced to reflect on the various incidents -that had befallen us from our first sallying forth on our pedestrian -excursion. We took a retrospect of all our little troubles with equally -as much delight as the sailor, who, by the blessing of Providence, has -escaped the most imminent dangers: all our past imaginary dangers (for -imaginary evils are frequently worse than real ones) were overbalanced -with reflections on the many hours of pleasure that were flown unheeded -by: these reflections brought to my recollection some interesting lines -in Bowles’s sonnets, which I involuntarily exclaimed aloud: - - “Fair scenes, ye lend a pleasure long unknown - To him who passes weary on his way; - The farewell tear which now he turns to pay - Shall thank you, and whene’er of pleasures flown - His heart some long-lost image would renew, - Delightful haunts! he will remember you.” - -At the village of Kevn Kaer are the remains of an oval camp, a wall, and -ditch: evidently Roman, from the coins and other antiquities found there. - -The sublimity of the walk to Talylyn literally “beggars description.” -Having crossed a bridge of eight arches, thrown over the river Dovey, -high mountains closed us on every side, shook into every possible form of -horror; huge masses of rock hung over our path, and it seemed necessary -to remember their firm basis, to soften the terror they inspired; whilst -other mis-shapen fragments lay scattered at the side of the road. The -transparent Dyflas, whose clear surface reflected the tremulous picture -in all its colours, forms one continued cataract for five or six miles, -overflowing with the innumerable tributary torrents which hurry -themselves down from the highest summit of the surrounding rocks; whilst, -to give effect to the whole prospect, the shaggy head of Cader Idris -towers, the majestic sentinel of the scene, whose “cloud capt” summit the -eye aches in surveying. To our great disappointment, the weather -prevented our ascending this celebrated mountain giant. Cader Idris is -esteemed, in height, the second mountain in all Wales, rising two -thousand eight hundred and fifty feet above the green of Dolgelly. {123} - -If the weather proves favourable to ascend Cader Idris, travellers may be -very comfortably accommodated with beds at - - - -TALYLYN; - - -a small village, situate at the foot of the mountain; and where they will -likewise meet with a conductor, in every respect suited for this Alpine -excursion. Mr. Jones, the landlord of the Blue Lion, used all his -influence to detain us until the weather wore a more favourable aspect; -but we determined to make Barmouth our head quarters. Quitting, -therefore, our polite landlord, we soon arrived at the pool of Three -Grains, which though of inferior size, yet is generally credited to be -unfathomable; it abounds in fish, and derives its name from three immense -stones, or rather fragments of rock, near it, which the common people -confidently assert, and believe, the giant Idris took out of his shoes as -he passed this pool. - -Having ascended several hills, a quick descent of three or four miles -soon brought us to - - - -DOLGELLY, - - -surrounded with a “tempestuous sea of mountains,” and watered by the -rapid current of the river Avonvawr, over which is thrown a large and -handsome stone bridge at the entrance of the town. - -This town was known to the Romans, if we may judge from the coins found -at a well in its vicinity, bearing this inscription, “IMP. CÆSAR. -TRAJAN.” It contains 537 houses, and 3064 inhabitants: but the church is -little better than a barn, with a covered roof, supported by two rows of -rude oak pales, and a bare earth floor. - -In the neighbourhood of this romantic spot, and indeed in many parts of -Merionethshire, the manufacture of strong cloth has long been carried on. -{124} - -No one can picture to themselves a more delightful situation than that of -Dolgelly:—an inclosed vale, encircled with the craggy and subject -mountains of Cader Idris, forming an amphitheatre,—watered by the Alpine -torrent of the Maw,—and richly clothed with wood. But necessity has no -law; the best inn was pre-occupied, and no comfortable accommodations -could be found; and, though drenched with rain, we were compelled to -quicken our pace to the well known bathing-place of Barmouth. - -Such, at the present day, is not likely to be the fate of the traveller, -as Dolgelly boasts of three inns, the Lion, the Angel, for travellers -without a carriage, and the new inn, called the Ship. One, two, or more -days will be passed here very pleasantly, either in excursions to Cader -Idris, Dol-y-melynllyn, the waterfalls of the Rhaiadr-du, Rhaiadr y -Mawdech and Pistyll y Cayne; or, under the sanction of Sir R. Hoare, who -says he knows of no place where so many inducements are held out to -excite the traveller to make excursions in its vicinity, he may visit the -vale of the Dee, Caer Gai, an old Roman station, at the end of the lake -of Bala, and Dinas y Mowddu, to enable them to accomplish which, ponies -and a guide are to be procured. - -The following is Dr. Mavor’s account of the Cader Idris Guide, an -original Caleb Quotem, and the bill of introduction he delivered to his -employers: - - “Lege, aspice Conductorem, et ride. - - “ROBERT EDWARDS, - - second son of the celebrated tanner, William Edwards, ap Griffith, ap - Morgan, ap David, ap Owen, ap Llewellyn, ap Cadwalader; great, great, - great grandson of an illegitimate daughter of an illustrious hero, - (no less famed for his irresistible prowess, when mildly approaching - under the velvet standards of the lovely Venus, than when sternly - advancing with the terrible banners of the bloody Mars) Sir Rice ap - Thomas!!! by Anne, alias Catherine, daughter of Howill ap Jenkin, of - Ynys-y-maesgwyn; who was the thirteenth in descent from Cadwgan, a - lineal descendant of Bleddyn ap Cynfyn, Prince of Powis. Since his - nativity full two and eighty times hath the sun rolled to his summer - solstice; fifty years was he host of the Hen and Chickens alehouse, - Pen-y-bont, twenty of which he was apparitor to the late right - reverend Father in God, John, Lord Bishop of Bangor, and his - predecessors: by chance, made a glover, by genius, a fly-dresser and - angler. He is now, by the All Divine assistance, conductor to, and - over the most tremendous mountain Cader Idris, to the stupendous - cataracts of Cayne and Mowddach, and to the enchanting cascades of - Dol-y-melynllyn, with all its beautiful romantic scenery; guide - general, and magnificent expounder of all the natural and artificial - curiosities of North Wales; professor of grand and bombastic - lexicographical words; knight of the most anomalous, whimsical (yet - perhaps happy) order of hair-brained inexplicables.” - - “He is a little slender man, about five feet four inches in height, - and, notwithstanding his advanced age, hopped and skipped about the - room with all the vivacity and agility of a school-boy. The manner - in which he expresses himself is as droll as his appearance. He was - dressed in a blue coat with yellow buttons, a pair of old boots, and - a cocked hat and feather of enormous size.” - -Mr. Pugh, in his Cambria Depicta, gives a portrait of him from the life, -seated on his poney, conducting a party up the mountain, and adds to his -bill the two following lines: - - “_Mark_, _traveller_, what rarely meets thy view, - Thy guide, a giddy _Boy_ of eighty-two.” - -Mr. Warner’s description of the view from the summit of Cader Idris is -just and concise. - - “The afternoon was gloriously fine, and the atmosphere perfectly - clear, so that the vast unbounded prospect lay beneath, unobscured by - cloud, vapour, or any other interruption, to the astonished and - delighted eye; which threw its glance over a varied scene, including - a circumference of at least 500 miles. To the north-east was - Ireland, like a distant mist upon the ocean; and a little to the - right Snowdon, and the other mountains of Caernarvonshire. Further - on, in the same direction, the Isle of Man, the neighbourhood of - Chester, Wrexham, and Salop; the sharp head of the Wrekin, and the - undulating summit of the Cleehills. To the south, I saw the country - round Clifton, Pembrokeshire, St. David’s, and Swansea; to the west, - a vast prospect of the British Channel, bounded by the horizon. - Exclusive of these distant objects, the nearer views were wonderfully - striking. Numberless mountains, of different forms, appearances, and - elevation, rose in all directions; which, with the various harbours, - lakes, and rivers, towns, villages, and villas, scattered over the - extensive prospect, combined to form a scene inexpressibly august, - diversified, and impressive.” {128} - -Mr. Aikin ascended it from Dolgelly. Llyn-y-Gader lies about a mile and -a half on the high road to Towyn, which having arrived at, we quitted the -road, and began our ascent. When we had surmounted the exterior ridge, -we descended a little to a deep clear lake, which is kept constantly full -by the numerous tributary torrents which fall down the surrounding rocks. -Hence we climbed a second and still higher chain, up a steep but not -difficult track, over numerous fragments of rock, detached from the -higher parts: we now came to a second and more elevated lake, called Llyn -y Cae, clear as glass, and overlooked by steep cliffs, in such a manner -as to resemble the crater of a volcano, of which a most accurate -representation may be seen in Wilson’s excellent View of Cader Idris. A -clear, loud, and distinct echo repeats every shout which is made near the -lake. The waters of this lake cover an extent of fifty acres, abounding -with trout and other fish. We now began our last and most difficult -ascent, up the summit of Cader Idris itself. The loose columnar stones -lie about in all directions, assuming in many places so regular an -appearance, that they might be mistaken for Druidic remains. Some of -them stand erect, like Maenhirion, and one is dignified with the title -Llêch Idria. Nearer the summit, numerous masses of irregular figures -present themselves. Having gained this ascent, a small plain forms the -base to two eminences, or rocky heads, of nearly equal height, one lying -towards the north, called Tyrran Mawr, the other to the south, called Pen -y Gader. We made choice of the latter, which appeared the most elevated, -and seated ourselves upon its highest pinnacle to rest, after a laborious -ascent of three hours. We were now above all the eminences within a vast -expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught some grand -views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks, which we before looked -up to with astonishment, were now far below our feet, and many a small -lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon and its -dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we saw the whole curve of -the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon -mountains, and nearer the sea, dashing its white breakers against the -rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by -Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the Channel peeping through the openings -of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over the lake -of Bala, the two Arennig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long chain of -the Ferwyn mountains, to the Breddin hills, on the confines of -Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising -alone from the plain of Salop. “In viewing scenes so decidedly -magnificent,” says a pictorial writer, “and to which neither the pen nor -the pencil of the painter can ever do justice; and the contemplation of -which has the power of making ample atonement for having studied mankind, -the soul expanding and sublimed, quickens with a spirit of divinity, and -appears, as it were, associated with the Deity himself. For, in the same -manner as a shepherd feels himself ennobled, while sitting with his -prince, so, and in a far more unlimited degree, the beholder feels -himself advanced to a higher scale in the creation, in being permitted to -see and to admire the grandest of the works of nature.” Having satisfied -our curiosity, and being thoroughly chilled by the keen air of these -elevated regions, we began to descend down the side opposite to that -which we had come up. - -The first stage led us to another beautiful mountain lake, the cold clear -waters of which discharge their superabundance in a stream down the side -of the mountain. All these lakes abound with trout, and in some is found -the gwniad, a fish peculiar to rocky Alpine lakes. Following the course -of the stream, we came upon the edge of the craggy cliffs which overlook -Talyllyn lake. A long and difficult descent conducted us, at last, to -the borders of Talyllyn, where we entered the Dolgelly road. - -The mountain - - - -CADER IDRIS, - - -in height the second in Wales, rises on the sea-shore, close upon the -north side of the estuary of the small river Disynwy, about a mile from -Towyn. It proceeds with almost a constant ascent; first northwards for -about three miles, then, for ten miles further, runs east-north-east, -giving out from its summit a branch nearly three miles long, in a -south-west direction, parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep and -craggy on every side; but the south descent, especially to the border of -Talyllyn lake, is the most precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its -breadth bears but a small proportion to its length; a line passing along -its base, and intersecting the summit, would scarcely equal four miles -and a half; and in the other parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly -ever exceeds one mile in breadth. Cader Idris is the beginning of a -chain of primitive mountains, extending in a north-north-east direction, -and including the Arrans and the Arennigs. It is much loftier and more -craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which surround it. - -The following Ode, by a friend, was written at the fountain welling from -the side of this mountain. - - I. - - The winds are hush’d: the woods are still; - And clouds around yon towering hill, - In silent volumes roll:— - While o’er the vale, the moon serene - Throws yellow on the living green; - And wakes a harmony between - The body and the soul. - - II. - - Deceitful calm! yon volumes soon, - Though gilded by the golden moon, - Will send the thunder’s roar. - Gloom will succeed the glowing ray; - The storm will rage with giant sway; - And lightnings will illume its way - Along the billowy shore. - - III. - - ’Tis thus in life, from youth to age, - Through manhood’s weary pilgrimage, - What flattering charms infest! - We little think beneath a smile, - How many a war, how many a wile, - The rich, confiding, heart beguile, - And rob it of its rest. - - IV. - - Then let me near this fountain lie; - And let old Time in silence fly, - Stealing my youth away! - Far from the riot of the mean, - Oh! let me o’er this fountain lean; - Till Death has drawn the darksome skreen, - That hides eternal day. - -Mr. Bingley ascended this mountain from the Blue Lion, kept by Jones, -before mentioned, who acts as guide: from this spot Mr. Bingley declares -himself capable of attaining the summit in two hours, from which he -describes the views to be more varied, if not so extensive, as from -Snowdon. - -“In descending,” he says, “I took a direction eastward of that in which I -had gone up, and proceeded along that part of the mountain called Mynydd -Moel. The path in this direction is sufficiently sloping to allow a -person to ride even to the summit. A gentleman, mounted on a little -Welsh poney, had done this a few days before I was here.” - -“About two miles from Dolgelly is the pretty village of Llanettyd, and -from hence a road through the vale to Maentwrog, which vale is seen to -much advantage from the bridge. From this village likewise a path leads -to Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, -lords of Merioneth, and sons of Cynan ap Owen Gwynedd, prince of North -Wales. The monks were of the Cistercian order, and the abbey was -dedicated to St. Mary. - -“The approach to Barmouth was formerly over a prodigious mountain, -surmounted with great difficulty, and passed with apprehension of -destruction. The magistrates of the county, however, bent on -improvement, agreed with an undertaker to form a road out of the steep -rocks jutting out from the sea, and to guard it with a wall. The labour -was astonishing, the price two guineas a yard. It is now a most charming -road, exhibiting romantic boldness of scenery. - -“A stone bridge of several arches conducts over Wnion, which here flows -many hundred feet wide. On the right, at a mile distant from the town, -on the bank of the river, are the ruins of Kymmer Abbey. Two miles from -Dolgelly is Nanneau Park, once the residence of Hawel Sele, an inveterate -enemy of Owen Glyndwr, the ancient seat of the family of that name, now -of Sir William Vaughan, Bart. The road is by a steep ascent, and the -house stands on very high ground. Sir Robert Vaughan erected a new and -handsome mansion. In the upper part of the park are the remains of a -British post, called Moel Orthrwn, or the Hill of Oppression. Returning -towards Barmouth, you regain the road at Llan Ettyd, where the tide flows -to a considerable height. Brigs are built here of 200 tons burden. - -“From Llan Ettyd to Barmouth is ten miles of most excellent road, winding -round the hill opposite to Dolgelly, on a shelf of rock, through hanging -woods, across a handsome stone bridge over the Mawddach, when it joins -the Wnion. The expanse of water here is considerable at high tide, -having the appearance of a large lake, enveloped by mountains. The vivid -summit of Cader now assumes the appearance of a volcano. The road -follows the inequalities of the shore, till it occupies a narrow shelf of -the perpendicular rock of Barmouth. Here is a fine view of the river -falling into the beautiful bay of Cardigan.”—NICHOLSON. - - - -BARMOUTH. - - -It is advisable for all travellers, pedestrians not excepted, to leave -Dolgelly at high water, as without that the scenery loses much of its -beauty; if convenient, it is certainly preferable to hire a boat at the -Stoves; the charge is three shillings and sixpence; by this you will save -a walk of eight miles, and both from your situation, and from being more -at your ease, will better admit of your observing the surrounding -scenery, with which you cannot fail to be highly gratified. - -This short excursion of eight miles is truly grand, awful, and sublime; -and, though many parts of this striking valley are richly cultivated, -yet, by the side of the road, enormous mountains, formed into the most -capricious shapes, shoot into the clouds, sometimes projecting so far -over the road, as seemingly designing to impede our farther progress: the -wide expanse of the ocean in front, with the arm of the sea running up -the country in the centre of the valley; in fine, the _tout ensemble_ -claimed our highest admiration. - -Barmouth, though considered as a bathing-place, is very inferior to -Tenby, yet its situation for grandeur of rocks has been frequently -compared by many tourists to Gibraltar, and by others esteemed not unlike -St. Kitts, in the West Indies. The vast sand-banks, formed by the tides, -immediately in front of the town, are the only barriers which protect it -from the inundations of the sea. The shore is extremely level, and -affords, for many miles, excellent riding. - -Barmouth is the only port in the county of Merioneth; but the entrance to -it is difficult. The town is built on ledges of rock, one rising above -another, so that the inhabitants of one street look down upon the -chimnies of that which is before them. - -The board and lodging is regulated on the same excellent plan here as at -Tenby, with very little difference in respect to the expense. We could -not avoid observing the number of pigs, which are esteemed in this part -of the country far superior to any in England, lying in every corner of -the street; and these pigs, I rather imagine, consider themselves, during -the night, inmates of the peasant’s cottage: yet these hardships, if they -may be distinguished by that name, the inhabitants of the hovel suffer -without complaint, and deem themselves perfectly happy as long as they -possess a pile of turf to keep off the inclemency of the winter’s blast, -a small strip of ground well stocked with potatoes, some poultry, and a -fat pig: one hovel, however, protects them all. Though, to appearance, -their situation is most miserable, yet it has no effect on their tempers -and dispositions; their hospitality, and indeed kindness, towards -strangers in distress, is an interesting trait in their character: to -instance this, I am induced to mention an anecdote which took place at -Hubberstone, not long ago. A lady, anxiously waiting the arrival of her -husband from Ireland, at the miserable village of Hubberstone, soon -interested even the meaner inhabitants of the place in her behalf; who, -willing to render her situation as comfortable as possible, seemed to vie -with each other in producing the most delicious fruits, and the choicest -garlands of flowers, to present them to the unhappy consort; and, not -content alone with this, she was generally greeted in the streets, with -the phrase, “There goes poor Mrs. L—.” The lady, at last, impatient for -the arrival of her husband, determined to sail for Ireland. The -faithfulness of the little group that accompanied her to the shore can -better be imagined than described; the last farewell, with tears of -artless innocence, and the beseeching that Providence “who governs the -waves, and stills the raging of the sea,” to grant her a prosperous -voyage, all this seemed to come so thoroughly from the bottom of their -hearts, that we cannot avoid feeling ourselves interested in their -behalf. - -The road from hence to - - - -HARLECH - - -is stony and uninteresting; to the left, an unbounded view of the wide -ocean; and, in front, the steep mountains of North Wales rose in endless -perspective. About four miles from Barmouth, we passed the two lodges at -Tal-y-bont, leading to Corsy-Gedol, the seat of Sir Thomas Mostyn. It is -practicable to go by the sands; but we were given to understand that the -turnpike road was, if anything, shorter, the scenery more pleasing, and -the guides necessary for crossing those dangerous sands, in general, most -complete villains. - -Harlech, anciently called Twr-Bronwen, though formed by King Edward I. -into a borough, can now be esteemed little more than a dirty village: the -present castle, one of the most entire in Wales, is founded on a very -high rock, projecting into the Irish sea. It consists of a square -building, each side measuring about seventy yards, having at every corner -a round tower. From each of these issued formerly a round turret, except -one or two, all now destroyed. The fortifications, fosses, and its -situation on the verge of a perpendicular rock, rendered it almost -invulnerable. - -This castle is one of the strongest and handsomest in Wales. It is in -the possession of the Crown, and in time of war has a small garrison for -the defence of the coast. From the top of the walls to the marsh the -height is very considerable, and from thence the bay of Cardigan is seen -to great advantage: in addition to this, the shagged summits of Cader -Buchan and Snowdon, in Caernarvonshire, being enveloped in clouds, appear -scarcely visible. - -At the public-house we accidentally met with a well-informed man, who -minutely delineated every part of the castle; and, beginning with the -founder, in the true characteristic style of a Welshman, ran through his -pedigree several generations: this, however, did not interest us cursory -pedestrians; and, with little persuasion, we soon induced him to write -down, in as concise a manner as possible, any information he was -acquainted with respecting the castle: “The founder of Harlech Castle, -A.D. 552, was Maelgwyn; Gwynedd; made Caer Dugoll (Shrewsbury); Caer -Gyffin (Aber Conway); Caer Gollwyn (Harleck); supposed to be buried in -Cirencester, and reigned thirty-four years.” Whether this information is -correct, I will not take upon me to assert; but meeting with a Welshman -in this part of the country capable of writing, rather surprised us, and -induced me to transcribe this short paragraph. - -In the year 1408 it was taken by the Earl of Pembroke, and afforded -likewise shelter to Margaret of Anjou, after the battle of Northampton in -1460; and was the last in North Wales which held out for the King, being -surrendered to General Mytton in 1647. - -In a garden near this castle was dug up, in the year 1692, an ancient -golden torques, of a round form, an inch in circumference, and weighing -eight ounces. This curious relic of British antiquity, exhibited in a -drawing by Mr. Pennant, still continues in the possession of the Mostyn -family. As we had not an opportunity of examining the original, this -account can only be gathered from the information of former authors, who -represent it as “a wreathed bar, or rather three or four rods twisted -together, about four feet long, flexible, but bending naturally only one -way, in form of a hat-band: it originally had holes at each end, not -twisted or sharp, but plain, and cut even.” - -In the year 1694, the prodigious phenomenon of fire or kindled -exhalation, which disturbed the inhabitants of this neighbourhood, is -both singular and extraordinary: sixteen ricks of hay, and two barns, -were burnt by a kindled exhalation, or blue weak flame, proceeding from -the sea: this lasted about a fortnight or three weeks, poisoning the -grass, and firing it for the space of a mile. It is extraordinary, that -it had no effect on the men who interposed their endeavours to save the -ricks from destruction, even by running into it. For a more accurate -account of this singular phenomenon, I refer my readers to the -Philosophical Transactions, No. 208, and likewise to the Addenda in -Camden: suffice it to say, that the air and grass were so infected, that -it occasioned a great mortality of cattle, horses, sheep, and goats. The -various conjectures that have been formed, to account for this kindled -exhalation, seem to be very unsatisfactory; something similar to this, -both in the appearance and in the effect, happened in France, in the year -1734. - -As, from the unfavourableness of the weather, we had not contemplated the -rich scenery between Barmouth and Dolgelly, with that nice investigation -which it deserved, we determined, by returning to our obliging landlady -at the Corsy-Gedol arms, to seize the opportunity of again admiring its -beauties; and, by taking a more circuitous route to the vale of -Festiniog, pay that attention to the falls of Doll-y-mullin, Moddach, and -Cayne, which they so deservedly require. - -This second saunter we found by no means tedious: the scene seemed -perpetually changing at every unexpected curvature of the road; and the -rude features of the mountains appeared to assume new forms, as the -winding presented them to the eye in different positions; whilst the -shifting vapours, which partially concealed their minuter grandeur, -assisted the illusions of the sight. Amidst new woods, rising in the -majesty of foliage, the scattered cottage, with its bluish smoke curling -high in the air, was frequently rendered interesting by its neat -simplicity; and served to constitute the romantic beauties of this -picturesque ramble. - -This pleasing scenery varied little till we arrived within two miles of -Dolgelly, when several gentlemen’s seats burst upon our sight; and -leaving that enchanting spot to the left, at the Laneltyd turnpike, a -different object presented itself to our view. For four miles we walked -by the side of a hill, the most translucent stream attending us the whole -way; for, though the road was situated so much above it, yet the sandy -bottom, with the finny tribe, in considerable numbers sporting in this -transparent element, were easily descried. On each side, the mountains -rose to a considerable height, with the craggy summit of Cader Idris -claiming the pre-eminence. We soon arrived at the small ale-house, -(Traveller’s Rest), where we met the labourer of Mr. Madox, whom we were -recommended to inquire for, as a proper cicerone to the water-falls in -his vicinity. Having finished our scanty but wholesome repast, we -repaired with an old woman (the labourer being confined to the house by -indisposition), to the fall of Doll-y-mullin. There appeared to be -something singular in the appearance of this “mountain elf:” destitute of -shoes and stockings, in the true Cambrian style, she tripped it, -occasionally singing, and sometimes discontented with the world, herself, -and every thing, uttering a most dismal groan. This excited our -curiosity; but, to learn much of her situation we soon found -impracticable; her knowledge of the English language was very trivial; -and, as she seemed not much inclined to give us any information -respecting the adjacent country, we found it useless to make inquiries -concerning her condition in life. - -Our surly conductress first led us through Mr. Madox’s grounds; to the -left of the Tan-y-bwlch road, by a most delightful walk cut through the -wood, we soon reached the Fall of Doll-y-mullin, the roaring of which had -a long time announced its vicinity. This cataract, though considered -only as a prelude to the grand Falls of the Cayne and Moddach, is still -worthy the attention of the passing traveller: for, though the river -precipitates itself not more than fifty feet, yet, the projection and -situation of the rocks, and the thick oak carelessly throwing its broad -brown arms across the troubled waters, is singularly pleasing. We had -hitherto only contemplated this scene from the foot of the fall; but how -noble the effect when we began to wind up the steep ascent, and paused at -every basin, which the water had formed in the excavated rock! - -By a retrograde saunter we soon gained the Tan-y-bwlch road; and, passing -over the romantic bridge of Pont ar Garfa, beautifully entwined with the -rich drapery of ivy, we ascended a steep path over the slaty mountain of -Tylyn Gwladys, two miles in extent.—Sublimity, indeed, gave place to -elegance: behind us, the huge steep of Cader Idris, lifting high above -the rolling cloud its shaggy head, of which, at intervals, we caught a -glance through the thick mist which enveloped it; in front, Snowdon, -conscious of pre-eminence, rose in the distant perspective: these were -the boundaries of our view. On the opposite side a barren mountain, -dignified by the name of Prince of Wales, appeared scarcely accessible, -but to the steps of the enthusiast. This formerly afforded a vast -quantity of ore, but it has lately so much failed, as not to produce even -a sufficiency to remunerate the miners. While traversing these barren -mountains, it is not less singular than interesting occasionally to meet -the most delicious valleys, watered by some foaming river; these are -often literally surcharged - - “With weighted rains, and melted Alpine snows.” - -Such is the true characteristic of the Welsh scenery: the finest verdure -and the most enchanting valleys are discovered in the bosom of sterility; -where natural cascades, precipitating themselves from their rude -pinnacles, alone disturb the silence which reigns in that asylum. These -render it more enchanting to the inquisitive pedestrians, for these -landscapes are only accessible to their steps: and the distant swell of -the cataract had now long proclaimed our proximity to the object in -pursuit. The Falls of the Cayne and the Moddach are at no great distance -from one another, being only separated by a thick wood. Crossing a small -bridge, above fifty feet from the water, formed only by the trunk of an -oak, which has accidentally fallen across the rapid torrent, our -conductress very judiciously selected the latter as the first object of -our admiration. The computed measurement of this fall is estimated at -between seventy and eighty feet, dividing itself into three distinct -parts, each finely broken by the projected rocks. The quantity of water -is very inconsiderable; but the whole is admirably presented to the eye -in one view. The first fall, about twenty feet, precipitates itself into -a deep pool, thirty feet diameter; from thence over a second ledge, -thirty feet high; and, lastly, it discharges itself into a pool of -considerable dimensions. The declivities of the rocks are luxuriantly -clothed with wood; the oak more particularly spreading its gigantic arms -across the foaming torrent: a variety of trees, indeed, profusely -embellish the whole of this glen, which are finely contrasted with the -dark brown rocks; constituting so finished a picture, and representing -such a variety of colours, that their beauties can be better conceived -than described. - -We now returned to the Fall of the Cayne, infinitely superior to any in -Wales, being two hundred feet perpendicular, uninterrupted by rocks, and -not intercepted by the thick wood which encircles it. For a considerable -time we both of us gazed with that rapt admiration, which loathes to be -disturbed by the mutual exchange of ideas; and, stunned with the -continual uproar, and never-ceasing tumultuous motion of the sparkling -foam, we silently admired the grandeur of the landscape. On each side -the horrific crags seemed to bid defiance to the goat’s activity. The -Cayne, after this stunned cataract, throws its troubled waters over a -rocky bed, till it unites itself with the Moddach below. - -“The feelings with which we view objects of the above description,” says -the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, “oppose -the theory of Mr. Burke, who confines sublimity to objects of terror; -those of Lord Kaimes, and Dr. Gerrad, who make it to consist in -magnitude, and Dr. Blair, who places it in ‘force,’ are equally -erroneous. The idea of Longinus, were we to associate sublimity in -poetry with that of the material world, (which we are, however, not -authorized to do,) is far from being correct. He defines it ‘a proud -elevation of mind.’ When applied to material objects, this is neither -cause nor consequence; for the experience of every man, from the proudest -of princes to the humblest of peasants, proclaims, that the effect of all -sublimity is astonishment, blended with awe: and when, at one moment, did -pride and awe unite in the same bosom? The difference between sublimity -of writing, and sublimity in objects, has not been sufficiently -distinguished by the several writers on the subject of taste. No objects -are beautiful and sublime, but by virtue of association. If they were, -the Vale of Aylesbury would be beautiful to him, who had long resided in -the Vale of Clwyd: and the Cliffs of Dover and the Peaks of Scotland -would be equally sublime to the native of Crim Tartary and the peasant of -the Tyrol. The opinions of many philosophers, in respect to the pleasure -we derive from objects, which excite our pity, are equally false. The -Abbé du Bos, Fontenelle, Hume, Akenside, and Burke, are all in error. We -must refer to principles; and the principle in this argument resolves -itself into the conclusion, that misfortune elicits sympathy, after the -same manner that magnets affine, and planets gravitate. But actual final -causes we have no power to define; though we frequently presume to do so. -Man, indeed, has the faculty of judging, limitedly, of effects; but vain, -proud, and arrogant as he is, he can only reason hypothetically, when he -would treat of final causes and of final consequences.” - -With reluctance we left this romantic situation; and, according to the -directions of our conductress, soon found ourselves in the turnpike-road -to Tan-y-bwlch, understanding that Mr. Warner’s route to Pen-street -afforded indifferent walking. Stupendous mountains attended us some way; -and, to borrow a description from a celebrated author, they “looked like -the rude materials of creation, forming the barrier of unwrought space.” -The sun was now making a “golden set:” the mountains were thrown together -in noble masses, appearing to scale the heavens, to intercept its rays, -and emulous to receive the parting tinge of lingering day. We were -watching with admiration the mild splendour of its light, fading from the -distant landscape, when we perceived the rich vale of Festiniog suddenly -open itself to our view: we observed the busy group of haymakers, who had -completed their day’s labour, returning to their homes: - - “While heard from dale to dale, - Waking the breeze, resounds the blended voice - Of happy labour, love, and social glee.” - -Pleased with this rustic scene, we caught the cheerful song, which was -wafted on the gentle breeze. With pleasure we anticipated a saunter -through this vale, early the ensuing morning: for one tint of sober grey -had now covered its various-coloured features, and the sun had now -gleamed its last light upon the rivulet which winds through the bottom. - - - -TAN-Y-BWLCH. - - -The “rich-hair’d youth of morn” had not long left his saffron bed, and -the very air was balmy as it freshened into morn, when we hurried from -our inn to enjoy the luxuries of the vale of Festiniog, so well -celebrated by the pen of Lord Littleton: “With the woman one loves, with -the friend of one’s heart, and a good study of books, one may pass an age -there, and think it a day. If one has a mind to live long, and renew his -youth, let him come and settle at Festiniog.” These are the sentiments -of Lord Littleton, in which seemed to be verified the situation of Mr. -Oakley, who has selected this spot for his residence. Tan-y-Bwlch hall -(for by that name is Mr. Oakley’s seat dignified) is environed by a thick -wood, which climbs the steep mountains behind his mansion. We followed -the meandering and translucent waters of the river Dwyryd, till we -arrived at the village of Maenwrog, situated about the middle of this -paradise. Passing through the village we observed a small but neat -cottage, which was rendered interesting to the wayfarer, by its neat -simplicity. A large old-fashioned chimney-corner, with benches to -receive a social party, formed a most enviable retreat from the rude -storms of winter, and defied alike the weather and the world:—with what -pleasure did I picture - - “A smiling circle, emulous to please,” - -gathering round a blazing pile of wood on the hearth, free from all the -vicissitudes and cares of the world; happy in their own home, blessed in -the sweet affection of kindred amity, regardless of the winter blast that -struggled against the window, and the snow that pelted against the roof. -On our entering, the wife, who possessed “the home of happiness, an -honest breast,” invited us to take a seat under the window; which, -overlooking the village, and the dark tower of the church, offered the -delights of other seasons. The sweets of a little garden joined its -fragrance to the honey-suckle, which enwreathed with rich drapery the -windows; and here too lay the old family Bible, which had been put aside -on our first entrance. We regretted our not having had an opportunity of -seeing the husband, whom I make no doubt - - “Envied not, and never thought of kings, - Nor from those appetites sustain’d annoy, - That chance may frustrate, or indulgence cloy; - Each season look’d delightful as it past, - To the fond husband, and the faithful wife.” - -“About a mile east of this village,” says Mr. Evans, “are two remarkable -waterfalls, called Rhaiadr Du, on the river Cynvel, one about three -hundred yards above, and the other below, a rustic bridge thrown over the -river, to which it leads. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, -over which the water foams into a deep black bason, overshadowed by the -adjoining rocks. The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, -precipitated down a rock forty feet high, and darkened by the numerous -foliage around it, almost to the edge of the stream. Between the -cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, called the pulpit of -_Hugh Llwyd Cynvel_, and situate in the bed of the river, from whence, -sage tradition says, a magician used to deliver his nocturnal -incantations.” There are few objects in Wales more worthy to be visited -than these waterfalls. - -From Festiniog, a pleasant excursion may be made to Tremadoc and -Criccaeth, and from thence to Pwllheli and Bardsey island. Tremadoc, -which is situate at the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, in the promontory of -Llyn, is about eight miles from Pont-Aber-Glaslyn: its situation is low, -being three feet below low water-mark, built on land reclaimed from the -sea, by the spirited exertions of the late William Alexander Madocks, -Esq. of Tany-yr-alt. - -The town, which is an oblong square, contains a handsome market-house, -over which are assembly rooms: a church, a good inn, the Tremadoc Arms, -and a bank. The reclaimed land consists of about two thousand acres, -which, in less than three years, was covered with vegetation; it now -produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, clover, &c. &c. - -Mr. Madocks, after having succeeded in this arduous undertaking, set -about the still more difficult one of throwing an embankment across the -mouth of the Traeth Mawr; as an inducement for the accomplishing of -which, a grant was made to him from the crown, in 1807, of the whole of -these sands, from Pontaber-glasllyn to the point of Gêst. - -The length of the embankment, from north to south, would be about a mile; -its breadth at the base one hundred feet, at the top thirty. The whole -of this has been completed to within one hundred yards in the centre, and -it is to be hoped this noble work will still be accomplished: funds only -seem now necessary for its completion: strong chain cables extended -across the opening, and hulks then sunk and filled would soon allow them -to finish the embankment. After seeing those in North Holland nothing is -to be despaired of. Long faggots, from seven to ten feet, straw, rushes, -and sand are the best sea-walls, sloping them gradually for the rise of -the tide. Those in Holland seemed constantly to have been increased by -the action of the sea, instead of having been diminished. - - - -CRICCAETH - - -is a small borough and market town. Its population is now about four -hundred: it, jointly with Caernarvon, &c. sends a member to parliament. - -Its ruined castle is not unworthy of attention; it stands on an eminence -projecting into the sea, and the entrance to it by land, being only along -an isthmus, defended by a double foss and vallum, it must formerly have -been strong. The gateway is between two towers, or bastions, externally -round, but square within; the facings of which are ascribed to Edward the -First: the other towers are entirely square. There have been two courts, -but neither of them large, nor indeed has the whole castle been a -building of any other than small extent. - -It is now in a ruinous state. The view from the ruins over the bay to -Haerlech is beautiful. In the neighbourhood of Pwllheli are several -respectable family seats; and the country in its vicinity is generally -better cultivated than the rest of the promontory: the town itself is -irregular and unpleasant; but it carries on a good coasting trade, and -vessels of considerable burthen are here built. The petty sessions for -the district of Llyn are held here; it is likewise contributory to -Caernarvon, in sending a member to parliament. Along the coast to -Bardsey Island, a considerable trade in fishing is carried on. Herrings -frequent this coast in great abundance, and are very fine: some are cured -here, and quantities sold to the Irish. Here likewise are taken both -john dories and smelts; the former of which was rejected by the fishermen -on the score of its ugliness. - -To sail from hence to Bardsey Island is both tedious and dangerous. -Passing the bay called Hell’s Mouth, of which Mr. Bingley says, “I never -saw a place which presented so favourable an appearance, and that was at -the time so much dreaded by the mariners as the present. It is at the -very end of the promontory, and from point to point is supposed to -measure about eight miles; it is also nearly semicircular. None but -strange vessels, even in the most boisterous weather, ever seek for -shelter here; and when they are so unfortunate, they are soon stranded, -and never again return. ‘We remember,’ says Mr. Jones, in one of his -letters, ‘more misfortunes to have happened in this bay, and more -inhumanity shewn to the sufferers, than we have ever heard of any where -else on the Welsh coast.’ My pilot, who had been long acquainted with -every part of these coasts, informed me, that, from whatever point of the -compass the wind blew out at sea, on account of the surrounding high -rocks, it always came into the mouth of this bay; and from whatever -quarter the tide flowed, the upper current here always sets inwards. -From these circumstances the common tradition is, that the place obtained -the appellation of _Hell’s Mouth_. - -“The whole coast, from the Rivals round the end of the land, nearly to -Pwllheli, is terminated only by high and steep rocks, inhabited in the -summer by a variety of sea-fowl.” Mr. Bingley, having failed in his -attempt to land in Bardsey, gives the following account of that island, -from the letters of the Rev. — Jones, vicar of Aberdaron, to whose parish -it belongs. - - - -ISLAND OF BARDSEY. - - -“This island, which is the property of Lord Newborough, is somewhat more -than two miles long, and one in breadth, and contains about three hundred -and seventy acres of land; of which nearly one-third is occupied by a -high mountain, that affords feed only for a few sheep and rabbits. Its -distance from the main land is about a league. Towards the south-east -and south-west it lies entirely open, but on the north and north-east it -is sheltered by its mountain, which to the sea presents a face of -perpendicular, and in some parts overhanging rocks. Among these -precipices the intrepid inhabitants, in the spring of the year, employ -themselves in collecting the eggs of the various sea-fowl that frequent -them. This is usually done bare-footed, to prevent them from slipping -from heights, whence they must be dashed to pieces; and their concern for -their safety while seizing these eggs, is infinitely less than that of -the beholder, sitting securely in the boat below. - - Nor untrembling canst thou see, - How from a craggy rock, whose prominence - Half o’ershades the ocean, hardy men - Fearless of dashing waves do gather them. - -“These poor fellows do not often meet with accidents, except by the -giving way of pieces of the rock. In this case they are irrecoverably -lost. The men who venture without ropes are accounted by the natives the -most bold climbers: those who are more cautious fix a rope about their -middle, which is held by some persons on the top of the rock. By this -they slip down to the place where they think the most eggs are to be -found. Here, untying it from their body, they fasten it to the basket -that is to contain the eggs, which they carry in their hand. When this -is filled, they make a signal to their companions to draw them up. In -this manner they proceed from rock to rock, ascending or descending as -they find it necessary. They adopt the same modes in collecting -samphire, with which the rocks also abound. - -“On the south-east side of the island, the only side on which it is -accessible to the mariner, there is a small but well-sheltered harbour, -capable of admitting vessels of thirty or forty tons burthen. In this -the inhabitants secure their own fishing-boats. The soil is principally -clay, and produces excellent barley and wheat; vetches, peas, and beans, -are said to succeed sufficiently well; but to oats it is not so -favourable. Trees will not grow here, the keen westerly winds -immediately destroying the young plants. Indeed, except a small quantity -of fine meadow land, all the lower ground of the island is of little -value. No reptile is ever seen in this island, except the common water -lizard. None of the inhabitants ever saw in it a frog, toad, or snake of -any kind. - -“Till about fourteen years ago, no sparrows had been known to breed here: -three nests were, however, built, during the same spring, and the produce -has since completely colonized the place. - -“There are here but eight houses, although the number of inhabitants is -upwards of seventy. Two or three of the principal of these rent the -island of Lord Newborough. They pay for it a hundred guineas a-year, and -have their land tithe free; and are also freed from taxes and rates of -every description. They keep about twenty horses and near thirty cows. -All the former, though greatly overstocking so small a place, are -absolutely necessary, on account of the great labour required in carrying -up the sea-weeds from the coast for manure. - -“The sheep are small, and on the approach of a stranger, as Mr. Jones -informs me, they squall not much unlike hares. Their activity is very -remarkable. In the year 1801, Mr. Jones had one of them on his farm, at -Aberdaron, that had twice ventured through the sea, though the channel is -three miles across, and regained the island. The inhabitants train their -dogs to catch them; but if the sheep once gain the rocks, they bid -defiance to every attempt for the time, as, rather than suffer themselves -to be seized, they will plunge from thence into the sea. At the time of -the year when the females usually drop their offspring, the inhabitants -watch them every day, and before they are able to follow their dams, they -mark them in the ears: they then suffer them to range at liberty. -Without this attention, from the extreme wildness of the animals, the -owners would never be able to distinguish their respective property. -Some few of the sheep of the island, from having been rendered tame when -young, are more easily managed: these alone submit to be folded in the -evening. - -“Curiosity induces many persons to visit this island almost every summer; -but the grandest sight the present inhabitants ever witnessed, was a -visit of the proprietor, Lord Newborough, and several persons of -distinction, in the whole to the number of about forty. This company -embarked in fishing-smacks from Porther, near Carreg Hall, in the parish -of Aberdaron. On their arrival in the island marquees were immediately -pitched. The whole company dined in the open air; and at the conclusion -of their repast, all the inhabitants were assembled. The ensuing scene -reminded a gentleman of my acquaintance, who was present, of what he had -read respecting the inhabitants of some of the South Sea islands. They -were drawn up into a circle, and Lady Newborough adorned the heads of the -females with caps and ribbons, whilst Lord Newborough distributed hats -among the men. The nominal king and queen of the island were -distinguished from the rest by an additional ribbon.” - -Mr. B. concludes by giving the following history of Bardsey. - -“The Welsh name of this place is Ynys-Enlli. During the violent -struggles between the Welsh and English, it was styled by the poets the -sanctuary or asylum of the Saints, and it was sometimes denominated the -Isle of Refuge. Some of these poets assert that it was the cemetery of -_twenty thousand saints_! {155} - -“The reputed sanctity of this island induced the religious to resort to -it, from many very distant parts of the country. It has been asserted by -several writers, that Roderic Moelwynog, prince of North Wales, first -founded here a monastery, some time in the eighth century. He might, -perhaps, rebuild or enlarge it, but there are good grounds, from Welsh -manuscripts, for supposing that there was a religious house in this -island of a much more early date. There is an old legend yet extant, -written in Monkish Latin, which assures us that the Almighty had entered -into a particular covenant with Laudatus, the first abbot of Bardsey, in -return for the piety of his monks. This granted to all the religious of -the monastery of Bardsey, the peculiar privilege of dying according to -seniority, the oldest always going off first. By this privilege, it is -stated, that every one knew very nearly the time of his departure. The -following is a translation of it:—‘At the original foundation of the -monastery of this island, the Lord God who attendeth to the petitions of -the just, at the earnest request of the holy Laudatus, the first abbot, -entered into a covenant with that holy man, and miraculously confirmed -his promise, unto him, his successors, the abbots and monks for ever, -while they should lead holy and religious lives, that they should die by -succession, that is, that the oldest should die first, like a shock of -corn ripe for the sickle. Being thus warned of the approach of death, -each of them, therefore, should watch, as not knowing at what exact hour -the thief might come; and, being thus always prepared, each of them by -turns should lay aside his earthly form. God, who is ever faithful, kept -his covenant, as he formerly did with the Israelites, inviolable; until -the monks no longer led a religious life, but began to profane and defile -God’s sanctuary by their fornications and abominable crimes. Wherefore, -after this, they were permitted to die like other men, sometimes the -older, sometimes the younger, and sometimes the middle-aged first; and, -being thus uncertain of the approach of death, they were compelled to -submit to the general laws of mortality. Thus, when they ceased to lead -a holy and religious life, God’s miraculous covenant also ceased: and do -thou, therefore, O God, have mercy upon us.” - -The ancient building is now entirely destroyed; but, about the ground -where the monastery stood, a great number of graves have very lately been -discovered, lined with white stone or tile, and distant about two feet -from each other. All the religious duties of the inhabitants are now -performed in the parish church of Aberdaron. Sometimes, however, in -stormy weather, they are under the necessity of interring their own dead -in the island. - -At Pwllheli good accommodation will be found at the Crown and Anchor Inn, -but if proceeding farther into Llyn, the traveller must depend solely on -the hospitality of individuals. - - - -PWLLHELI. - - -The market-days at this place are Wednesdays and Saturdays. Its -population is rated at about thirteen hundred. The beach here is -excellent; and so much resorted to in the summer season, that it appears -probable it will grow into notice as a sea bathing-place. Several -hundred acres of land in the vicinity of the town, which used to be -overflowed by high tides, have been reclaimed by embankments on both -sides of the town. It is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and a -recorder. - -Returning from Pwllheli towards Criccaeth, the country wears the most -beautiful aspect. The richly wooded scenery is relieved by shaggy rocks -and partial views of the sea being caught through the opening glades. -Passing Llandstundwy, situate on the river Dwyfor, which after heavy -rains overflows its banks, and greatly incommodes it, I left the road, -and proceeded by Trefan Hall, the handsome mansion of Mr. Roberts, to a -cromlech, about a mile distant, called Coeten Arthur, or Arthur’s Quoit, -which the said Arthur, as report says, threw from a mountain near -Beddgelert. It is handsome and in high preservation: the top stone is -nearly three feet in thickness. But a still finer cromlech is about a -mile from this, at a farm called Ystim Cegid; the flat stone of this is -about eighteen inches in thickness, and is about thirty-six feet in -circumference: its form is triangular, and its supporters of that height, -that will allow a man on horseback to go under it; this also is called -Arthur’s Quoit. From hence to Criccaeth the road is dull and -uninteresting: near the ruins of the small chapel of Bettws, is Chewilog, -an old mansion, formerly belonging to the ancestors of Sir Howel, -surnamed y-Fwyall, from his remarkable dexterity in the use of the -battle-axe, which weapon he used with such effect in the battle of -Poictiers, that the capture of the French monarch is, by many, ascribed -to him; at all events, his conduct on that day drew down upon him the -regards of the Black Prince to such extent, that he not only bestowed -upon him the constableship of Criccaeth Castle, but likewise knighted -him; and, in perpetual memorial of his good services, it was directed -that a mess of meat should, at the expence of the crown, be every day -served up before the axe with which he had performed such good service. -After the mess had been brought before the knight, it was taken and -distributed among the poor. Eight yeomen attendants were constituted to -guard the mess, who received each eight-pence a-day pay, and were termed -yeomen of the crown: these were continued on the establishment till the -reign of Queen Elizabeth; and it is by many conceived, and by no means -improbable, that the yeomen of the crown, which we do not read of in -history till the reign of Henry the Seventh, are indebted to these for -their origin. After the death of Sir Howel, the mess was still carried -before the axe, and bestowed on the poor for the repose of his soul. -Besides the above honours conferred upon him, he was constable of Chester -Castle; had Dwyfor and others, the king’s mills, to farm; with a grant of -the weirs and fisheries on the coast, and many other offices of great -trust and profit. - -Between Criccaeth and Penmorva you pass Stumllyn, formerly the seat of -the Wynnes, now the seat of — Jones, Esq. of Machynlleth. Near -Clenenney, on Bwlch Craig Wenn, is a fine Druidical circle, consisting at -present of thirty-eight stones; and about a mile from this, above -Penmorva, is another. On Llysdin farm some small urns, containing human -bones and ashes, have lately been discovered. At a small distance is -Brynkir, where Lord Lyttleton took up his residence when he visited this -part of the principality. This part of the country was formerly the seat -of dreadful feuds, and appears to have been inhabited by a most ferocious -and irascible set of beings. They were of two clans, one descended from -Owen Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales; the other was derived from Collwyn -ap Tangno. The history of Evionedd, or Eifionydd, is during that period -one of revenge, perfidy, and slaughter; and to such extent was it -carried, that Meredith ap Jevan preferred taking up his residence in -Dolwyddelan Castle, at that time surrounded by robbers and freebooters, -to residing in this district, giving to his friends the following -decisive reason: “If,” said he, “I live in my own house in Evionedd, I -must either kill my own kinsmen, or submit to be murdered by them.” He, -therefore, rather chose to fight with thieves and outlaws than with his -own immediate relatives. - -“They would quarrel,” says Sir John Wynne, “if it was but for the mastery -of the country, and the first good morrow. John Owen, ap John, ap -Meredydd, and Howel ap Madoc Vychan, fell out for no other reason. Howel -and his people fought valiantly: when he fell, his mother placed her hand -on his head, to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her hand and three -of her fingers cut off, by some of her nearest kindred. An attempt was -made to kill Howel ap Rhys, in his own house, by the sons of John ap -Meredith, for no other reason than that their servants had quarrelled -about a fishery. The first set fire to the mansion with great bundles of -straw:—the besieged, terrified with the flames, sheltered themselves -under forms and benches, while Rhys, the old hero, stood sword in hand, -reproaching his men with cowardice, and telling them he had often seen a -greater smoke in that hall on Christmas even. - -“These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other punishment than what -resulted from private revenge, and too often composition was made for the -most horrible murders. There was a _gwerth_, or price of blood, from the -slaughter of a king, to the cutting off one of his subject’s little -fingers.”—_Williams’s Caernarvon_. - - - -PENMORFA, - - -the Head of the Marsh, is a wood-clad village, romantically situated in a -nook, between some high rocks at the end of a tract of meadows, on the -western bank of Traeth Mawr. - -The church contains a monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, a valiant -commander in the army, and a staunch supporter of Charles I. Being tried -with the Earl of Holland, Lords Loughborough, Goring, and other noble -supporters of the royal cause, after the death of the king, he exhibited -a spirit coinciding with his former noble daring; and, on being condemned -to lose his head, he bowed to the court, thanking them for the honour -they intended him. On being asked by a member what he meant, in his -usual blunt manner he replied, “I think it a great honour for a poor -gentleman of Wales to lose his head with such noble lords:—by G—, I was -afraid you would have hanged me.” - -Great intercession being made for the other noble personages, and no one -applying or interesting themselves on behalf of Sir John, Cromwell, as -related by some authorities, and Hutchinson and Ireton, as stated by -others, interfered for the worthy knight, whose life was spared: after a -few months’ confinement he was allowed to retire to Clenenney, where he -died. - -Mr. Williams, rector of Llanberis, from whose work, recently published, -on the history, antiquities, &c. of Caernarvonshire, I before quoted, -says, in speaking of the situation of Penmorfa, and the meadows lying -between it and Traeth Mawr, “they were formerly subject to the -overflowing of the higher tides, till an embankment was made by W. A. -Madox, Esq. a gentleman to whom this part of the country is greatly -indebted for numerous and great improvements, particularly for the -erection of an embankment, about a mile in length, in order to reclaim -some thousand acres of land, and which now forms a safe and convenient -road between the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth, across the estuary -of Traeth Mawr; whereas, formerly, many lives were lost in going over -those dangerous sands. Tremadoc, a new town, which bears the name of its -founder, is about a mile distant from Penmorfa, and contains from eighty -to a hundred houses. Here is a handsome new church, a market-place, a -comfortable inn, and a great number of good shops. Near the town are -several good houses, built by the same gentleman, particularly -Tan-yr-Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.; all of which, as well as every thing in or -about this little town, evidently prove the individual who planned and -conducted the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, -and superior judgment and ability. A market has been established here, -and the fairs, which used to be at Penmorfa on the following days, March -6, May 14, August 20, September 25, and November 12, have mostly deserted -that place, and are held at Tremadoc. Here is an excellent salmon -fishery, a good shore for bathing, and a safe harbour for vessels under -120 tons burthen. It is greatly to be lamented; that the beneficial -improvements by the before-mentioned public-spirited gentleman, W. A. -Madox, Esq. and carried by him to such a state of forwardness, should not -be completed. In the year 1625, Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, conceived the -great design of gaining this immense track (Traeth Mawr), as well as the -lesser one (Traeth Bach), from the sea, by means of an embankment; and -for that purpose he implored the assistance of his illustrious -countryman, Sir Hugh Middleton, in a letter which has been preserved, -and, together with that gentleman’s reply, printed in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. -A bridge over Traeth Bach, and a new line of road along the sea-coast to -Barmouth, with a stage coach or some other more regular mode of -conveyance between North and South Wales, particularly during the summer -months, are still left among the desiderata of this portion of the -principality.” - -From Tremadoc, an excellent road of about five miles brought us to the -far-famed Pont Aber-Glaslyn, or the bridge of the harbour of the Blue -Lake; and not uncommonly styled the Devil’s Bridge. This last -appellation has very frequently misled strangers, who, confounding it -with the well-known bridge at Havod, have been much disappointed, their -expectations being raised very high, from the general description of that -place. Of this, indeed, we found an instance on the very spot. This -bridge connects the two counties of Merioneth and Caernarvon; being, from -the parapet to the water, forty feet. From the description of former -tourists, it did not answer our expectations; but the salmon-leap is an -interesting object from the bridge: the height is about fifteen feet; -and, though we observed very many attempt this surprising feat of -agility, not one succeeded. Some fishermen below soon excited our -curiosity, and salmon was here offered for sale at three-pence per pound. - -An intelligent man here offered himself as our guide to the rich -copper-mines, in the vicinity of Pont Aber-Glaslyn. This miner, having -worked both here and at the Parys Mountain, confidently asserted, that -one pound of this ore was now esteemed equivalent to twice the quantity -produced in Anglesea. Yet, for a considerable time, little advantage was -derived from the concern, till a company obtained a lease of the mountain -from Mr. Lloyd, the proprietor: and having placed an intelligent agent in -a house near the mines, entered on the concern with that spirit which -merited success. Stupendous cliffs, by the road side, literally rise -eight hundred and sixty feet perpendicularly, and hang in the most -capricious forms over the torrent; which, straggling amongst the recesses -of stone, is hastening forward to disembogue itself into the estuary of -Traeth Mawr. The pass is not more than seventy feet; after much rain it -is entirely inundated by the overflowings of the Glaslyn, which reflect, -as in a mirror, the blackness of the impending cliffs. On the -Caernarvonshire side are several lead mines; but they have not proved -sufficiently rich to reward the labour of working. - -The situation of our inn at - - - -BEDDGELERT - - -is very romantic, and would form an interesting drawing, by taking in a -small bridge of two arches below the house. It is completely encircled -by lofty mountains, which may be considered as subject to the “cloud-capt -Snowdon.” - -Situate at the junction of three vales, its beautiful meadows form a fine -contrast to the surrounding rugged scenery. The church is small, but -lofty; it is supposed to be erected on the site of an ancient priory of -Augustine monks, dedicated to St. Mary, and founded, according to the -account of Mr. Rymer, in his Fœdera, by Llewelyn ap Iorweth, in gratitude -for the preservation of his son, and as an atonement for the rash effects -of his intemperate rage, so pathetically described in the following poem: -but both the Mr. Williamses, who have written on Caernarvonshire, support -the opinion of its earlier establishment, looking upon it as the most -ancient foundation in the country except Bardsey. Its revenues, -according to the Reverend P. B. Williams’s account, must have been -considerable; which he likewise accounts for as necessary, from its being -on the great road from England and South Wales to North Wales, and from -Ireland to England. In order to enable the prior to keep up his usual -hospitality, Edward the First, after it had greatly suffered by fire in -1283, most generously, at his own expense, repaired all the damages; and -Bishop Anian, about the year 1286, to obtain for it benefactions, -remitted to all such benefactors, who truly repented of their sins, forty -days of any penance inflicted on them. - - - BEDDGELERT, - OR, - THE GREYHOUND’S GRAVE. - - - BY WILLIAM SPENCER. - - The spearmen heard the bugle sound, - And cheerly smiled the morn; - And many a brach, and many a hound, - Attend Llewelyn’s horn. - - And still he blew a louder blast, - And gave a louder cheer; - “Come, Gelert, why art thou the last - Llewelyn’s horn to hear? - - “Oh where does faithful Gelert roam? - The flower of all his race; - So true, so brave: a lamb at home; - A lion in the chase.” - - ’Twas only at Llewelyn’s board - The faithful Gelert fed; - He watch’d, he serv’d, he cheer’d his lord, - And centinel’d his bed. - - In sooth, he was a peerless hound, - The gift of royal John: {166} - But now no Gelert could be found, - And all the chase rode on. - - And, now, as over rocks and dells - The gallant chidings rise, - All Snowdon’s craggy chaos yells - With many mingled cries. - - That day Llewelyn little loved - The chase of hart or hare, - And scant and small the booty proved, - For Gelert was not there. - - Unpleased, Llewelyn homeward hied: - When near the royal seat, - His truant Gelert he espied, - Bounding his lord to greet. - - But when he gain’d his castle door, - Aghast the chieftain stood: - The hound was smear’d with gouts of gore, - His lips and fangs ran blood! - - Llewelyn gazed with wild surprise, - Unused such looks to meet; - His favourite check’d his joyful guise, - And crouch’d, and lick’d his feet. - - Onward in haste Llewelyn past, - And on went Gelert too: - And still, where’er his eyes he cast, - Fresh blood-gouts shock’d his view! - - O’erturn’d his infant’s bed he found, - The blood-stain’d covert rent: - And all around the walls and ground, - With recent blood besprent. - - He call’d his child; no voice replied; - He search’d with terror wild; - Blood, blood, he found on every side, - But nowhere found the child! - - “Hell-hound, by thee my child’s devour’d!” - The frantic father cried: - And to the hilt the vengeful sword, - He plunged in Gelert’s side. - - His suppliant, as to earth he fell, - No pity could impart; - But still his Gelert’s dying yell - Past heavy o’er his heart. - - Aroused by Gelert’s dying yell, - Some slumberer waken’d nigh: - What words the parent’s joy can tell, - To hear his infant cry! - - Conceal’d between a mingled heap, - His hurried search had miss’d; - All glowing from his rosy sleep, - His cherub boy he kiss’d! - - Nor scratch had he, nor harm, nor dread, - But the same couch beneath - Lay a great wolf, all torn, and dead, - Tremendous still in death! - - Ah! what was then Llewelyn’s pain! - For now the truth was clear; - The gallant hound the wolf had slain, - To save Llewelyn’s heir. - - Vain, vain was all Llewelyn’s woe; - “Best of thy kind, adieu! - The frantic deed which laid thee low, - This heart shall ever rue!” - - And now a gallant tomb they raise, - With costly sculpture deckt; - And marbles storied with his praise - Poor Gelert’s bones protect. - - Here never could the spearman pass, - Or forester unmoved; - Here oft the tear-besprinkled grass - Llewelyn’s sorrow proved. - - And here he hung his horn and spear, - And oft, as evening fell, - In fancy’s piercing sounds would hear - Poor Gelert’s dying yell! - - And till great Snowdon’s rocks grow old, - And cease the storm to brave, - The consecrated spot shall hold - The name of Gelert’s grave. - -Since the author’s first visit, much has been added to the picturesque -scenery of Beddgelert, through the liberal and patriotic spirit of Thomas -Jones of Bryntirion, Esq. the worthy proprietor of this romantic vale. A -most excellent inn has been erected, and no expense spared in rendering -the accommodations for the tourist and the traveller the most attractive, -as well as the most comfortable. It is worthy of remark, that this spot -was selected by the monks as favourable to the desponding gloom of popish -superstition. The parish church, which is situated within a few hundred -yards of this inn, was formerly a part of a priory of Augustine monks, -founded by Anion, Bishop of Bangor, in the thirteenth century; and -supposed by some to be the oldest religious house in Wales. Part of the -cloisters still remain. The monastery was destroyed by fire during the -reign of Edward the First. The present appearance of the vale is, -however, calculated to produce sensations of a very different -description, and presents objects the most alluring to the lovers of -mountain scenery. The tourist, whether he be a poet, a philosopher, or -an antiquary, will here find abundant sources of recreation to detain him -for some days. Within the distance of an hour’s walk from the inn, are -situated - - - -THE VALE OF NANHWYNAN, - - -beautifully diversified by thriving plantations and elegant villas. In -this vale stands Dinas Emrys, or the Castle of Ambrosius, to which -Vortigern is said to have fled for refuge, after having called in the -Saxons; by which he for some time avoided the odium and persecution of -his countrymen. - - - -THE PASS OF DRWSYCOED, - - -commanding a most splendid view of the lakes of Nantlle, including the -floating island, mentioned by Camden, the sea being also visible at a -distance. Here King Edward is said to have encamped his army in his last -expedition into Wales, when he completed the subjugation of the country. - -Beddgelert is now a thoroughfare, with a good road from Caernarvon to -Dolgelly, Welsh Pool, Shrewsbury, Bishop’s Castle, Ludlow, and Worcester; -it is therefore a most convenient station from whence to make excursions -to some of the most interesting scenery in North Wales, among the first -of which is the ascent of the mighty and once wood-covered Snowdon. - -How often has the idea of this stupendous mountain filled my heart with -enthusiastic rapture! Every time I cast my eyes on that solemn, that -majestic vision, it is not without the most powerful emotion; it excites -that tender melancholy, which exalts rather than depresses the mind! How -delightful to bid adieu to all the cares and occupations of the world, -for the reflection of those scenes of sublimity and grandeur, which form -such a contrast to the transientness of sublunary greatness! With what -anxiety have we watched the setting sun, loitering just below the -horizon, and illuminating the highest summit of Snowdon with a golden -tinge; and we still watch the passing clouds of night, fearing lest the -morning should prove unfavourable for our Alpine excursion! - - - -SNOWDON. - - -We engaged the miner {170} as our conductor over the mountain, who -entertained us much with displaying, in strong colours, the tricks and -impositions of his brother guides. {171} - -At half-past twelve we started from our inn, determined to see the sun -rise from its highest summit. The night was now very dark, and we could -just discover that the top of Snowdon was entirely enveloped in a thick -impenetrable mist: this unpropitious omen staggered our resolutions; and -we for some time hesitated respecting our farther progress; but our guide -assuring us that his comfortable cottage was not far distant, we again -plucked up resolution; and, quitting the high way about two miles on the -Caernarvon road, we turned to the right, through a boggy, unpleasant -land, and in danger of losing our shoes every step we took. This soon -brought us to the comfortable cot, the filth and dirtiness of which can -better be imagined than described; a worm-eaten bed, two small stools, -and table fixed to the wall, composed the whole of his furniture; two -fighting-cocks were perched on a beam, which Thomas seemed to pride -himself in the possession of: the smoke of the fire ascended through a -small hole in the roof of this comfortable mansion, the door of which did -not appear proof against the “churlish chiding of the winter blast.” - -Such, indeed, was the situation of this Cambrian mountaineer: and, -though, in our own opinion, misery, poverty, and dirt personified, seemed -to be the real inhabitants of this cottage, yet there was something -prepossessing in his character; for, frequently, with the greatest -vehemence imaginable, and in the true style of an anchorite, he declared, -that, “though he boasted not riches, yet he boasted of independence; and -though he possessed not wealth, yet he possessed the home of happiness, -an honest breast.” - -The morning appearing to wear a more favourable aspect, we again sallied -forth; the bogs, however, still rendered it extremely unpleasant. But -this inconvenience was only temporary; we soon came to a part of the -mountain entirely composed of loose stones and fragments of rock, which -affording only a very treacherous footing, you are liable to perpetual -falls. The mountain now became much steeper, the path less rocky, and -our mountaineer, the higher we proceeded, more induced to exhibit feats -of his agility, by occasionally running down a short precipice, and then, -by a loud shout of vociferation, shewing us the obedience of the sheep, -who instantaneously flocked around him at the sound of his voice: it is -singular, the caution implanted in this animal, by instinct, for the -mutual protection of each other; from the liberty they enjoy, they seldom -congregate in one flock, but are generally discovered grazing in parties -from six to a dozen, one of which is regularly appointed centinel, to -watch the motions of their inveterate enemies (foxes and birds of prey), -which infest this mountain. A wider expanse of the hemisphere disclosed -itself, and every object below us gradually diminished as we ascended. -The freshness of the mountain whetted our appetites; and our conductor, -with very little persuasion, soon influenced us to open our little basket -of provisions. The sun, the “rich-hair’d youth of morn,” was just -peeping from his bed; and having refreshed ourselves, with eager -impatience, we again climbed the rugged precipice; for we had still a -considerable height to ascend. We now passed several steep declivities -by a narrow path not more than three yards wide, with a dreadful -perpendicular on each side, the sight of which almost turned us giddy. -As we were passing this hazardous path, a thick mist enveloped us, and an -impenetrable abyss appeared on both sides; the effect, indeed, can -scarcely be conceived; our footing, to us, puisne mountaineers, seemed -very insecure; and a total destruction would have been the consequence of -one false step. The air grew intensely cold, and, by our guide’s -recommendation, we a second time produced our pistol of rum, diluted with -milk; but this cordial must be used with caution, as a very small -quantity of strong liquor affects the head, owing to the rarefaction of -the air. On our reaching the summit, all our difficulties were -forgotten, and our imaginary complaints overborne with exclamations of -wonder, surprise, and admiration. The light, thin, misty cloud, which -had for some time enveloped us, as if by enchantment, suddenly dispersed; -the whole ocean appeared illuminated by a fiery substance, and all the -subject hills below us, for they resembled mole-hills, were gradually -tinged by the rich glow of the sun; whose orb becoming at length -distinctly visible, displayed the whole island of Anglesea so distinctly, -that we descried, as in a map, its flat and uncultivated plains, bounded -by the rich and inexhaustible Parys mountains, in the vicinity of -Holyhead. The point on which we were standing did not exceed a square of -five yards, and we sickened almost at the sight of the steep precipices -which environed us; round it is a small parapet, formed by the customary -tribute of all strangers, who visit this summit, and to which we likewise -contributed, by placing a large stone on its top; this parapet, indeed, -sheltered us from the chilly cold, and protected us from the piercing -wind, to which this height must naturally be exposed. - -We remained in this situation for a considerable time, and endeavoured, -without success, to enumerate the several lakes, forests, woods, and -counties, which were exposed to us in one view; but lost and confounded -with the innumerable objects worthy of admiration, and regardless of the -chilling cold, we took a distinct survey of the Isle of Man, together -with a faint prospect of the Highlands in Ireland, which appeared just -visibly skirting the distant horizon; but another object soon engrossed -all our attention: - - “The wide, the unbounded prospect lay before us; - But shadows, clouds, and darkness, rest upon it:” - -For we unexpectedly observed long billows of vapour tossing about, half -way down the mountain, totally excluding the country below, and -occasionally dispersing, and partially revealing, its features; while -above, the azure expanse of the heavens remained unobscured by the -thinnest mist. This, however, was of no long continuance: a thick cloud -presently wet us through; and the point on which we were standing could -alone be distinguished. As there appeared little or no chance of the -clouds dispersing, we soon commenced our descent. Respecting this Alpine -excursion, suffice it to say, that though our expectations were raised -exceedingly high, it infinitely surpassed all conception, and baffled all -description; for no colour of language can paint the grandeur of the -rising sun, observed from this eminence, or describe the lakes, woods, -and forests, which are extended before you; for description, though it -enumerates their names, yet it cannot draw the elegance of outline, -cannot give the effect of precipices, or delineate the minute features, -which reward the actual observer, at every new choice of his position; -and, by changing their colour and form in his gradual ascent, till at -last every object dwindles into atoms: in short, this interesting -excursion, which comprehends every thing that is awful, grand, and -sublime, producing the most pleasing sensations, has left traces in the -memory which the imagination will ever hold dear. - -The view from the summit of Snowdon is thus described by the author of -the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature. - - “After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak - of Snowdon, the height of which is 3571 feet above the level of the - Irish Sea. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself, - magnificent beyond the powers of language! Indeed, language is - indigent and impotent, when it would presume to sketch scenes, on - which the Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight. - Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa! - Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, Genius of Thomson, - Virgil, and Lucretius! - - “From this point are seen more than five-and-twenty lakes. Seated on - one of the crags, it was long before the eye, unaccustomed to measure - such elevations, could accommodate itself to scenes so admirable:—the - whole appearing as if there had been a war of the elements; and as if - we were the only inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate - the ruins of the world. Rocks and mountains, which, when observed - from below, bear all the evidences of sublimity, when viewed from the - summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, as rugged, and as - elevated as themselves; the whole resembling the swellings of an - agitated ocean. - - “The extent of this prospect appears almost unlimited. The four - kingdoms are seen at once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! - forming the finest panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins - with the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of - Ingleborough and Penygent, in the county of York, and the hills of - Lancashire forefollow: then are observed the counties of Chester, - Flint, Denbigh, and a portion of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole - of Merioneth succeeds; and drawing a line with the eye along the - diameter of the circle, we take in the regions, stretching from the - triple crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds-David, - and Llewelyn. Snowdon, rising in the centre, appears as if he could - touch the south with his right hand, and the north with his left. - ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cæsar sat upon these crags, when he - formed the daring conception of governing the world!’ - - “From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the bold - geographical outline, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes - for a while on the summit of the Rivel. After observing the indented - shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels over a long line of ocean, - till, in the extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow - terminate the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the - coast, till they are lost to the eye; which, ranging along the - expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, reposes on the Island of - Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space - is occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, - masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea, - with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion. A - scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison - to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment and the - transport of admiration seem to contend for the mastery; and nerves - are touched that never thrilled before. We seem as if our former - existence were annihilated; and as if a new epoch were commenced. - Another world opens upon us; and an unlimited orbit appears to - display itself, as a theatre for our ambition.” - -The first two miles of our descent we by no means found difficult, but -wishing to take a minute survey of the picturesque Pass of Llanberris, we -changed the route generally prescribed to strangers, and descended a -rugged and almost perpendicular path, in opposition to the proposals of -our guide, who strenuously endeavoured to dissuade us from the attempt; -alleging the difficulty of the steep, and relating a melancholy story of -a gentleman, who many years back had broken his leg. This had no effect: -we determined to proceed; and the vale of Llanberris amply rewarded us -for the trouble. - -Mr. Williams, of Llandegai, in his observations on the Snowdon mountains -(which, from his having been a resident on the spot, may be considered as -entitled to the greatest credit,) makes the following remarks on the -probable derivation of their names, and the customs and manners of their -inhabitants. - -“It would be endless to point out the absurd conjectures and -misrepresentations of those who have of late years undertaken to describe -this country. Some give manifestly wrong interpretations of the names of -places, and others, either ignorantly or maliciously, have as it were -caricatured its inhabitants. Travellers from England, often from want of -candour, and always from defect of necessary knowledge, impose upon the -world unfavourable as well as false accounts of their fellow-subjects in -Wales; yet the candour of the Welsh is such, that they readily ascribe -such misrepresentations to an ignorance of their language, and a -misconception of the honest, though perhaps warm temper of those that -speak it. And it may be, travellers are too apt to abuse the Welsh, -because they cannot or will not speak English. _Their ignorance ought -not to incur disgust_: _their reluctance proceeds not from stubbornness_, -_but from diffidence_, _and the fear of ridicule_. - - -“NATIVES OF ERYRI. - - -“The inhabitants of the British mountains are so humane and hospitable, -that a stranger may travel amongst them without incurring any expense for -diet or lodging. Their fare an Englishman may call coarse; however, they -commonly in farm-houses have three sorts of bread, namely, wheat, barley, -and oatmeal; but the oatmeal they chiefly use; this, with milk, butter, -cheese, and potatoes, is their chief summer food. They have also plenty -of excellent trout, which they eat in its season. And for the winter -they have dry salted beef, mutton, and smoked rock venison, which they -call _Côch ar Wyden_, i.e. _The Red upon the Withe_, being hung by a -withe, made of a willow or hazel twig. They very seldom brew ale, except -in some of the principal farm-houses: having no corn of their own -growing, they think it a superfluous expense to throw away money for malt -and hops, when milk, or butter-milk mixed with water, quenches the thirst -as well. - -“They are hardy and very active; but they have not the perseverance and -resolution which are necessary for laborious or continued undertakings, -being, from their infancy, accustomed only to ramble over the hills after -their cattle. In summer they go barefoot, but seldom barelegged, as has -been lately asserted by a traveller. They are shrewd and crafty in their -bargains, and jocular in their conversation; very sober, and great -economists; though a late tourist has given them a different character. -Their greetings, when they meet any one of their acquaintance, may to -some appear tedious and disagreeable: their common mode of salutation is -‘How is thy heart? how the good wife at home, the children, and the rest -of the family?’ and that often repeated. When they meet at a -public-house, they will drink each other’s health, or the health of him -to whom the mug goes at every round. They are remarkably honest. - -“Their courtships, marriages, &c. differ in nothing from what is -practised on these occasions among the lowlanders or other Welsh people; -but as there are some distinct and local customs in use in North Wales, -not adopted in other parts of Great Britain, I shall, by way of novelty, -relate a few of them:—When Cupid lets fly his shaft at a youthful heart, -the wounded swain seeks for an opportunity to have a private conversation -with the object of his passion, which is usually obtained at a fair, or -at some other public meeting; where he, if bold enough, accosts her, and -treats her with wine and cakes. But he that is too bashful will employ a -friend to break the ice for him, and disclose the sentiments of his -heart: the fair one, however, disdains proxies of this kind, and he that -is bold, forward, and facetious, has a greater chance of prevailing, -especially if he has courage enough to steal a few kisses: she will then -probably engage to accept of his nocturnal visit the next Saturday night. -When the happy hour arrives, neither the darkness of the night, the -badness of the weather, nor the distance of the place, will discourage -him, so as to abandon his engagement. When he reaches the spot, he -conceals himself in some out-building, till the family go to rest. His -fair friend alone knows of and awaits his coming. After admittance into -the house a little chat takes place at the fire-side, and then, if every -thing is friendly, they agree to throw themselves on a bed, if there is -an empty one in the house; when Strephon takes off his shoes and coat, -and Phillis only her shoes; and covering themselves with a blanket or -two, they chat there till the morning dawn, and then the lover steals -away as privately as he came. And this is the bundling or _courting in -bed_, {181} for which the Welsh are so much bantered by strangers. - -“This courtship often lasts for years, ere the swain can prevail upon his -mistress to accept of his hand. Now and then a pregnancy precedes -marriage, but very seldom, or never, before a mutual promise of entering -into the marriage state is made. When a matrimonial contract is thus -entered into, the parents and friends of each party are apprised of it, -and an invitation to the wedding takes place; where, at the appointed -wedding-day, every guest that dines drops his shilling, besides payment -for what he drinks. The company very often amounts to two or three -hundred, and sometimes more. This donation is intended to assist the -young couple to buy bed-clothes, and other articles necessary to begin -the world. Nor does the friendly bounty stop here: when the woman is -brought to bed, the neighbours meet at the christening, out of free -good-will, without invitation, where they drop their money; usually a -shilling to the woman in the straw, sixpence to the midwife, and sixpence -to the cook; more or less, according to the ability and generosity of the -giver. - - -“MODE OF BURYING. - - -“When the parish bell announces the death of a person, it is immediately -inquired upon what day the funeral is to be; and on the night preceding -that day all the neighbours assemble at the house where the corpse is, -which they call Ty Corph, i.e. ‘the corpse’s house.’ The coffin, with -the remains of the deceased, is then placed on the stools, in an open -part of the house, covered with black cloth, or, if the deceased was -unmarried, with a clean white sheet, with three candles burning on it. -Every person on entering the house falls devoutly on his knees before the -corpse, and repeats to himself the Lord’s Prayer, or any other prayer -that he chooses. Afterwards, if he is a smoker, a pipe and tobacco are -offered to him. This meeting is called Gwylnos, and in some places -Pydreua. The first word means Vigil; the other is, no doubt, a corrupt -word from Paderau, or Padereuau, that is, Paters, or Paternosters. When -the assembly is full, the parish clerk reads the common service appointed -for the burial of the dead: at the conclusion of which psalms, hymns, and -other godly songs are sung; and since Methodism is become so universal, -some one stands up and delivers an oration on the melancholy subject, and -then the company drop away by degrees. On the following day the -interment takes place, between two and four o’clock in the afternoon, -when all the neighbours assemble again. It is not uncommon to see on -such occasions an assembly of three or four hundred people, or even more. -These persons are all treated with warm spiced ale, cakes, pipes, and -tobacco; and a dinner is given to all those that come from far: I mean, -that such an entertainment is given at the funerals of respectable -farmers. {183a} They then proceed to the church; and at the end of that -part of the burial service, which is usually read in the church, before -the corpse is taken from the church, every one of the congregation -presents the officiating minister with a piece of money; the deceased’s -next relations usually drop a shilling each, others sixpence, and the -poorer sort a penny a-piece, laying it on the altar. This is called -offering, and the sum amounts sometimes to eight, ten, or more pounds at -a burial. The parish clerk has also his offering at the grave, which -amounts commonly to about one-fourth of what the clergyman received. -After the burial is over the company retire to the public-house, where -every one spends his sixpence for ale; {183b} then all ceremonies are -over.” - -Mr. W. then proceeds to explain the good and ill resulting from the -prevalence of Methodism, and those fanatics termed Ranters, &c. and -states, that “the mountain people preserve themselves, in a great -measure, a distinct race from the lowlanders: they but very seldom come -down to the lowlands for wives; nor will the lowlander often climb up the -craggy steeps, and bring down a mountain spouse to his cot. Their -occupations are different, and it requires that their mates should be -qualified for such different modes of living. - -“I will not scruple to affirm, that these people have no strange blood in -their veins,—that they are the true offspring of the ancient Britons: -they, and their ancestors, from time immemorial, have inhabited the same -districts, and, in one degree or other, they are all relations.” - -The vale of Llanberris is bounded by the steep precipices of Snowdon, and -two large lakes, communicating by a river. It was formerly a large -forest, but the woods are now entirely cut down. We here dismissed our -Cambrian mountaineer, and easily found our way to Dolbadern (pronounced -Dolbathern) Castle, situated between the two lakes, and now reduced to -one circular tower, thirty feet in diameter, with the foundations of the -exterior buildings completely in ruins. In this Owen Gôch, brother to -Llewellin, last prince, was confined in prison. This tower appears to -have been the keep or citadel, about ninety feet in height, with a -vaulted dungeon. At the extremity of the lower lake are the remains of a -British fortification, called Caer cwm y Glô; and about half a mile from -the castle, to the south, at the termination of a deep glen, is a -waterfall, called Caunant Mawr; it rushes over a ledge of rocks upwards -of twenty yards in height, falls some distance in an uninterrupted sheet, -and then dashes with a tremendous roar through the impending fragments of -the rock, till it reaches the more quiet level of the vale. Returning to -the lakes, you have a fine view of the ruins, with the promontory on -which they are situated; and that with greatly heightened effect, if -favoured by their reflection on the glassy surface of the waters, to -which you add the rocky heights on each side; Llanberris church relieving -the mountain scenery, and the roughest and most rugged cliffs of Snowdon -in the back-ground topping the whole, which give together a grand and -pleasing coup-d’œil. - -In this vicinity are large slate quarries, the property of Thomas Asheton -Smith, Esq. and a rich vein of copper ore. These afford employ to great -numbers of industrious poor: to the men, in obtaining the ore and slates, -and the women and children in breaking, separating, and preparing the -different sorts for exportation, or for undergoing farther preparatory -processes to fit them for smelting. From hence a rugged horse-path -brought us to the Caernarvon turnpike-road, about six miles distant; the -high towers of the castle, the very crown and paragon of the landscape, -at last pointed out the situation of - - - -CAERNARVON; - - -and having crossed a handsome modern stone bridge thrown over the river -Seiont, and built by “Harry Parry, the modern Inigo, A.D. 1791,” we soon -entered this ancient town, very much fatigued from our long excursion. - -The town of Caernarvon, beautifully situated and regularly built, is in -the form of a square, enclosed on three sides with thick stone walls; and -on the south side defended by the castle. - -The towers are extremely elegant; but not being entwined with ivy, do not -wear that picturesque appearance which castles generally possess. Over -the principal entrance, which leads into an oblong court, is seated, -beneath a great tower, the statue of the founder, holding in his left -hand a dagger: this gateway was originally fortified with four -portcullises. At the west end the eagle tower, remarkably light and -beautiful, in a polygon form; three small hexagon turrets rising from the -middle, with eagles placed on their battlements; from thence it derives -its name. In a little dark room {186} in this tower, measuring eleven -feet by seven, was born King Edward II. April 25, 1284. The thickness of -the wall is about ten feet. To the top of the tower we reckoned one -hundred and fifty-eight steps; from whence an extensive view of the -adjacent country is seen to great advantage. On the south are three -octagonal towers, with small turrets, with similar ones on the north. -All these towers communicate with each other by a gallery, both on the -ground, middle, and upper floor, formed within the immense thickness of -the walls, in which are cut narrow slips, at convenient distances, for -the discharge of arrows. - -This building, founded on a rock, is the work of King Edward I. the -conqueror of the principality; the form of it is a long irregular square, -enclosing an area of about two acres and a half. From the information of -the Sebright manuscript, Mr. Pennant says, that, by the united efforts of -the peasants, it was erected within the space of one year. - -Having spent near three hours in surveying one of the noblest castles in -Wales, we walked round the environs of the town. The terrace {187} round -the castle wall, when in existence, was exceedingly pleasing, being in -front of the Menai, which is here upwards of a mile in breadth, forming a -safe harbour, and is generally crowded with vessels, exhibiting a picture -of national industry; whilst near it a commodious quay presents an -ever-bustling scene, from whence a considerable quantity of slate, and -likewise copper, from the Llanberris mine, is shipped for different parts -of the kingdom. - -Caernarvon may certainly be considered as one of the handsomest and -largest towns in North Wales; and under the patronage of the Marquess of -Anglesea promises to become still more populous and extensive. - -In Bangor-street is the Anglesea Arms hotel, a large and most respectable -inn; where, as well as the Goat, the charges are moderate and the -accommodations excellent. - -Caernarvon is only a township and chapelry to Llanbeblic. Its market is -on a Saturday, which is well supplied and reasonable; and with the -spirited improvements made to the town and harbour, has been the means of -greatly increasing its population: according to the late returns it -contains 1008 houses, and 6000 inhabitants. The church, or rather -chapel, has been rebuilt by subscription. Service is performed here in -English, and at the mother church at Llanbeblic {188} in Welsh. - -The port, although the Aber sand-banks, forming a dangerous bar, must -ever be a great drawback upon it, has not only been wonderfully improved, -but is in that progressive state of improvement by the modern mode of -throwing out piers, that vessels can now, of considerable tonnage, lie -alongside the quay, and discharge or take in their cargoes in perfect -safety; this bids fair, as may be seen by the rapid increase of its -population and tonnage, to make it a place of trade and considerable -resort: yet still it only ranks as a creek, and its custom-house is made -dependent on that of the haven of Beaumaris, to the comptroller of which -its officer is obliged to report: this must be a considerable hindrance -to its trade, particularly in matters out of the customary routine. The -county hall, which is near the castle, is a low building, but -sufficiently commodious within to hold with convenience the great -sessions. Caernarvon possessed such great favour with Edward the First, -as to have the first royal charter granted in Wales given to it. It is -by that constituted a free borough. It has one alderman, one deputy -mayor, two bailiffs, a town-clerk, two serjeants at mace, and a mayor; -who, for the time, is governor of the castle, and is allowed 200_l._ per -annum to keep it in repair. It jointly with Conway, Nevin, Criccaeth, -and Pwllheli, sends a member to parliament, for the return of whom every -inhabitant, resident or non-resident, who has been admitted to the -freedom of the place, possesses a vote. - -It is allowed to have a prison for petty offences independent of the -sheriff. Its burgesses likewise were exempt throughout the kingdom from -tollage, lastage, passage, murage, pontage, and all other impositions of -whatever kind, with other privileges, too numerous to insert. - -The county prison is likewise near the castle. It was erected in the -year 1794. The new market-house, containing the butchers’ shambles, &c. -is a well-contrived and convenient building, affording good storage for -corn and other articles left unsold. - -The site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about half a mile -south of the present one, will be found worthy the attention of the -traveller; it was the only Roman station of note in this part of Cambria, -on which a long chain of minor forts and posts were dependent. It is -even maintained, and that by respectable authorities, that it was not -only the residence but burial-place of Constantius, father of Constantine -the Great; but most probably this arises from confusing Helena, the -daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, who was born at Segontium, and -married to Maximus, first cousin of Constantine, with Helena, his mother, -whom these authorities assert to have been the daughter of a British -king. A chapel, said to have been founded by Helen, and a well which -bears her name, are amongst the ruins still pointed out. - -Since the numerous late improvements have been going forward at and near -Caernarvon, new and interesting lights have been thrown on the ruins in -its vicinity, which will form a rich treat to the antiquary. - -Near the banks of the Seint, from which Segontium took its name, and -which runs from the lower lake of Llanberris, are the remains of a fort, -which appears to have been calculated to cover a landing-place from the -river at the time of high water: it is of an oblong shape, and includes -an area of about an acre; one of the walls which is now standing is about -seventy-four yards, and the other sixty-four yards long, in height from -ten to twelve feet, and nearly six feet in thickness. The peculiar plan -of the Roman masonry is here particularly discernible, exhibiting -alternate layers, the one regular, the other zig-zag; on these their -fluid mortar was poured, which insinuated itself into all the -interstices, and set so strong as to form the whole into one solid mass; -retaining its texture even to the present day, to such a degree, that the -bricks and stone in the Roman walls yield as easy as the cement. - -English history has spoken so fully on this place, as connected with -Edward the First, on the title, which he, from his son being born in this -castle, so artfully claimed for him, and the future heirs apparent to the -British throne, as affording to the Welsh a prince of their own, -agreeable to their wishes, and the quiet annexation of the principality -to his dominions, which Edward by this means obtained, that it appears -superfluous to enlarge upon it in this work. - -Several excursions may be made from Caernarvon, with great satisfaction -to the tourist; the principal of which is a visit to - - - -PLAS-NEWYDD, - - -the elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, situated in the Isle of -Anglesea, and distant about six miles from Caernarvon. If the wind and -tide prove favourable, the picturesque scenery of the Menai will be -viewed to great advantage by hiring a boat at the quay. {191} But if -this most advisable plan should not be approved of, the walk to the -Moel-y-don ferry, about five miles on the Bangor road, will prove highly -gratifying. The Menai, whose banks are studded with gentlemen’s seats, -appearing scarcely visible between the rich foliage of the oak, which -luxuriates to the water’s brink, is filled with vessels, whose shining -sails, fluttering in the wind, attract and delight the observing eye; -whilst the voice of the sailors, exchanging some salute with the passing -vessel, is gently wafted on the breeze. - -Crossing the ferry, we soon reached the ancient residence of the -arch-druid of Britain, where was formerly stationed the most celebrated -of the ancient British academies: from this circumstance many places in -this island still retain their original appellation, as Myfyrim, the -place of studies: Caer Idris, the city of astronomy; Cerrig Boudin, the -astronomer’s circle. The shore to the right soon brought us to the -plantations of Plâs-Newydd, consisting chiefly of the most venerable -oaks, and noblest ash in this part of the country: - - —“Superior to the pow’r - Of all the warring winds of heaven they rise; - And from the stormy promontory tower, - And toss their giant arms amid the skies; - While each assailing blast increasing strength supplies.” - - BEATTIE’S MINSTREL. - -Beneath their “broad brown branches” we discovered several cromlechs, the -monuments of Druidical superstition; several stones of enormous size -support two others placed horizontally over them. {192} For what purpose -these ancient relics were originally erected, it is not for us puisne -antiquarians to discuss; and with eager impatience we hurried to visit -the noble mansion, which has not yet received the finishing stroke of the -architect; sufficient, however, is accomplished to form a conjecture of -its intended splendour and magnificence. The whole is built, stables -included, in a Gothic castellated form, of a dark slate-coloured stone: -on entering the vestibule, we, for a short time, imagined ourselves in -the chapel, a mistake, though soon discovered, to which every visitor is -liable; the ceiling having Gothic arches, with a gallery suitable to it, -and several niches cut in the side walls: we were next conducted through -a long suite of apartments, the design of them all equally convenient and -elegant. The landscape from the Gothic windows is both beautiful and -sublime: a noble plantation of trees, the growth of ages; the winding -strait of the Menai, gay with vessels passing and repassing: and, beyond -this tranquil scene, the long range of the Snowdon mountains shooting -into the clouds, the various hues of whose features appear as beautiful -as their magnitude is sublime. The house is protected from the -encroachments of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall; in fine, -this magnificent seat of the gallant Marquis seems to possess many -conveniences peculiar to its situation: the warm and cold baths, -constantly filled by the Menai, are sequestered and commodious, and every -part of the house is abundantly supplied with water. - -Since the last edition of this work was published, this splendid -residence has been finished in a style corresponding to the promises it -held forth, and now ranks amongst the first in the principality. - -The park, though small, is well wooded, and laid out with taste; and the -woods extending along the bold cliffs of the Menai, with the parapeted -bastion wall, which supports the terrace at the bottom of the lawn, cause -this elegant edifice, with its turrets and gilded vanes, surrounded by -its venerable groves, to be viewed to great advantage from the water or -opposite shore. The front is composed of a centre nearly semilunar, with -two wings semioctagonal; these receive a bold and happy finish from -octagonal turrets rising from the basement of each angle of the front and -wings, several feet above the embattled parapet, finishing in small -spires surmounted by gilt vanes. - -Behind the house are two of the largest cromlechs; the upper stone of one -is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, supported -by five upright ones; the other is close to the first, and is only about -five feet and a half square. - -Not far from these is a carnedd, part of which is destroyed; within was -found a cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered with two flat -stones. On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, for what -purpose intended I leave to others to determine; some conceive they were -places of confinement, and these holes served as stocks, in which to -secure the victims of the Druidical sacrifices; but let us rather hope -not; for as the learned of those days here for a period found a shelter, -and as these woods - - “Were tenanted by bards, who nightly thence, - Rob’d in their flowery vests of innocent white, - Issued with harps, that glitter to the moon, - Hymning immortal strains:” - - MASON’S CARACTACUS. - -we may as reasonably conceive that learning, poetry, music, and religion, -would soothe and soften the angry passions of the soul, as that they -would rouse to the horrid immolation of human sacrifices. - -Being unavoidably prevented at this time from visiting the celebrated -Parys Mountain, the property of the Marquis of Anglesea and Colonel -Hughes, we again returned to the hotel at Caernarvon; purposing to stay -the following day (Sunday), with the intention of making a strict enquiry -into the religious sect, settled here, and in many parts of Wales, called -Jumpers. {195} - -The account we had received from our landlord, we imagined, was -exaggerated; and this more strongly induced us to visit the chapel, that -we might be enabled, in future, to contradict this ridiculous report. - -At six in the evening the congregation assembled; and, on our entrance -into the chapel, we observed, on the north side, from a sort of stage or -pulpit, erected on the occasion, a man, in appearance a common -day-labourer, holding forth to an ignorant and deluded multitude. Our -entrance at first seemed to excite a general dissatisfaction; and our -near neighbours, as if conscious of their eccentricities, muttered bitter -complaints against the admittance of strangers. The chapel, which was -not divided into pews, and even destitute of seats, contained near a -hundred people: half way round was erected a gallery. The preacher -continued raving, and, indeed, foaming at the mouth, in a manner too -shocking to relate:—he allowed himself no time to breathe, but, seemingly -intoxicated, uttered the most dismal howls and groans imaginable, which -were answered by the congregation, so loud as occasionally to drown even -the voice of the preacher. At last, being nearly exhausted by continual -vociferation, and fainting from exertion, he sunk down in the pulpit. -The meeting, however, did not disperse: a psalm was immediately sung by a -man, who, we imagined, officiated as clerk, accompanied by the whole -congregation. The psalm had not continued long before we observed part -of the assembly, to our great surprise, jumping in small parties of -three, four, and sometimes five in a set, lifting up their hands, beating -their breasts, and making the most horrid gesticulations. Each -individual separately jumped, regularly succeeding one another, while the -rest generally assisted the jumper by the help of their hands. The women -always appeared more vehement than the men, and infinitely surpassed them -in numbers: seeming to endeavour to excel each other in jumping, -screaming, and howling. We observed, indeed, that many of them lost -their shoes, hats, and bonnets, with the utmost indifference, and never -condescended to search after them; in this condition, it is not unusual -to meet them jumping to their homes. Their meetings are twice a week, -Wednesdays and Sundays. Having accidentally met with a gentleman, at the -hotel, a native of Siberia, we invited him to our party; and, induced by -curiosity, he readily accompanied us to the chapel. On the commencement -of the jumping, he entreated us to quit the congregation, exclaiming -“Good God! I for a moment forgot I was in a Christian country. The -dance of the Siberians, in the worship of the Lama, with their shouts and -gesticulations, is not more horrid!” This observation so forcibly struck -me, that I could not avoid inserting it in my note-book. - -With disgust we left the chapel, and were given to understand, by our -landlord, they celebrate a particular day every year, when instances have -been known of women dying by too great an exertion; and fainting is -frequently the consequence of their excessive jumping. - -This sect is by no means confined to the town of Caernarvon; but in many -villages, and several market towns, both in North and South Wales, they -have established regular chapels. “They have (says a correspondent to -the Gentleman’s Magazine) {197} periodical meetings in many of the larger -towns, to which they come from thirty to forty miles round. At one held -at Denbigh, about last April, there were, I believe, upwards of four -thousand people, from different parts. At another, held at Bala, soon -afterwards, nearly double that number were supposed to be present.” The -last number appears rather to be exaggerated, though the letter, being -dated from Denbigh, should be considered as authoritative. - -Another correspondent to the Gentleman’s Magazine gives the following -information respecting the sect: “That they are not a distinct sect, but -Methodists, of the same persuasion as the late Mr. Whitfield; for though -there are several congregations of the Wesleyan Methodists in this -country, there is no such custom amongst them. But jumping during -religious worship is no new thing amongst the other party, having (by -what I can learn) been practised by them for many years past. I have -seen some of their pamphlets in the Welsh language, in which this custom -is justified by the example of David, who danced before the ark; and of -the lame man, restored by our blessed Saviour, at the gate of the temple, -who leaped for joy.” How far this gentleman’s account may be accurate, I -leave for others to decide: it is certainly to be lamented, in a country -where the Christian religion is preached in a style of the greatest -purity and simplicity, that these poor ignorant deluded wretches should -be led to a form of worship so dissonant to the established church of -England, by a poor ignorant fellow, devoid of education and common sense. - -The same road we had so much admired the preceding Saturday, soon brought -us to - - - -BANGOR, - - -the oldest Episcopal see in Wales; being founded in 516. - -The situation is deeply secluded, “far from the bustle of a jarring -world,” and must have accorded well with monastic melancholy; for the -Monks, emerging from their retired cells, might here indulge in that -luxurious gloominess, which the prospect inspires, and which would soothe -the asperities inflicted upon them by the severe discipline of -superstition. The situation of Bangor appears more like a scene of airy -enchantment than reality; and the residences of the Canons are endeared -to the votaries of landscape by the prospect they command. On the -opposite shore, the town of Beaumaris was seen straggling up the deep -declivity, with its quay crowded with vessels, and all appeared bustle -and confusion; the contrast, which the nearer prospect inspired, was too -evident to escape our notice, where the - - “Oak, whose boughs were moss’d with age, - And high top bald with dry antiquity,” - -afforded a seat for the contemplation of the wide expanse of the ocean, -which is seen beyond the little island of Puffin, or Priestholm; so -called from the quantity of birds of that species, which resort here in -the summer months. - -The cathedral has been built at different times, but no part very -ancient; the church was burnt down by Owen Glendwr, in the reign of King -Henry IV.; the choir was afterwards built by Bishop Henry Dene, (or -Deane), between the years 1496 and 1500; the tower and nave by Bishop -Skevington, in 1532. The whole is Gothic architecture, and the interior -of the cathedral has, within the last six years, been altered, and now -presents a most imposing effect. The choir, which formerly was only -fifty-two feet in length, has been extended into the nave, and is in -length 110 feet from the east window; the remaining part of the nave has -been neatly fitted up with free pews, for the Welsh congregation, and -will accommodate about 700 persons. The choir will contain about 600 -persons. The late improvements were done by a public subscription, which -amounted to nearly 4000_l._ and the money has been expended in the most -beneficial and tasteful manner, under the superintendance of the Rev. J. -H. Cotton, Precentor and Senior Vicar, by whose praise-worthy exertions, -the money was collected in different parts of the United Kingdom. There -are several bishops {200} buried in the choir. I could dwell with -pleasure on the picturesque beauties of this little episcopal see; but a -repetition of the same epithets, grand, beautiful, sublime, fine, with a -long catalogue, which must necessarily occur, would appear tautologous on -paper, though their archetypes in nature would assume new colours at -every change of position of the beholder. - -This bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian, -bishop of the diocese, in the reign of Edward the First; who, being in -high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening -the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had, -as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of King -Henry the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of -the principality allotted to the see. - -Mr. Evans, in his valuable work, the Topography of North Wales, has -clearly refuted the improbable charge made against Bishop Bulkely, of -having sold the cathedral bells; and, on the contrary, proves from -documents, that the cathedral was indebted to him for considerable -repairs, and that likewise by his will he was a benefactor to it; this -falsehood, which originated with Godwin, in his Treatise, entitled “De -Presulibus,” as a piece of scandal against the church, met with but too -ready a belief from former tourists, whose false records Mr. Evans -deserves great credit for refuting. - -Bangor is governed by the Bishop, whose steward holds the courts. From -being a quiet, retired place, it has now become a scene of commercial -bustle and activity, and is rapidly rising into an important town. The -opening of Lord Penrhyn’s slate quarries, and the great increase of -travelling through it since the union with Ireland, have been the great -causes of its increased and growing prosperity. From the convenience for -sea-bathing, the excellent new roads which branch from it in every -direction, the beauties of scenery which surround it on every side, its -proximity to many of the finest objects which Wales can boast of, and the -great interest which is excited by the suspended bridge over the Menai -Strait, it has become a place of fashionable resort; and during the -summer exhibits a scene of gaiety and cheerfulness, that forms a striking -contrast to its ancient monastic gloom. The tourist will find this a fit -spot for his head quarters, as he can branch out in various directions, -and each affords him ample scope for his sketch-book or his -contemplation. - -Public baths are much wanted here; and it is to be hoped that the spirit -of improvement, which has lately manifested itself in this neighbourhood, -will not rest till these are accomplished. - -The castle is said to have been built by Hugh, Earl of Chester, in the -reign of William the Second; it stood on a steep hill, on the south side -of Bangor, called Castle Bank, but there is not at this time a vestige -remaining. - -A pleasant walk leads to the Bangor Ferry Inn, delightfully situated, -overlooking the Straits of - - - -MENAI. - - -This Strait, which separates Anglesea from the main land, although -bearing only the appearance of a river, is an arm of the sea, and most -dangerous in its navigation at particular periods of the tide, and in -boisterous weather: during the flood, from the flush of water at each -extremity, it has a double current, the clash of which, termed Pwll -Ceris, it is highly rash and dangerous to encounter. In the space of -fifteen miles there are six established ferries: the first of which, to -the south, is Abermenai, the next near Caernarvon, and three miles north -from the first is Tal y foel; four miles further, Moel y don; three miles -beyond which is the principal one, called Porthaethwy, but more generally -known as Bangor Ferry; it is the narrowest part of the Strait, and is -only about half a mile wide; this is the one over which the mails and -passengers pass on their route to and from Holyhead, and near which is -the bridge, of which a particular description and plan is for the first -time given; a mile further north is the fifth, Garth Ferry; and the -sixth, and widest ferry at high water, is between the village of Aber and -Beaumaris. - -There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected -with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near -Porthaeth-hwy; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly cross the channel, -and cause such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the -contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. -This isthmus once destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work -of ages, by the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and -enlarge the opening; as it appears by history, that both Roman and -British cavalry, at low water, during neap tides, forded or swam over the -Strait, and covered the landing of the infantry from flat-bottomed boats. - -The violent rush of water, and consequent inconvenience, delay, and -danger, when the wind and tide are unfavourable to the passage over -Bangor Ferry, in the present state of constant and rapid communication -with Ireland, gave rise to the idea of forming a bridge over the Menai. -Various estimates and plans were submitted to the public consideration by -our most celebrated engineers, and men of science; when, after numerous -delays, Mr. Telford’s design for one on the suspension principle was -adopted, and money granted by Parliament for carrying it into effect. -The first stone of this magnificent structure was laid on the 10th of -August, 1819, without any ceremony, by the resident engineer, Mr. Provis, -and the contractors for the masonry. - -“When on entering the Straits,” {204} says a recent author, “the bridge -is first seen, suspended as it were in mid air, and confining the view of -the fertile and richly-wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament -than a massy bridge, and shows little of the strength and solidity which -it really possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still -retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size and -immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw that a brig, -with every stick standing, had just passed under it,—that a coach going -over appeared not larger than a child’s toy, and that foot-passengers -upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by -contrast fully apparent.” The whole surface of the bridge is in length -1000 feet, of which the part immediately dependent upon the chains is 590 -feet, the remaining distance being supported by seven arches, four on one -side and three on the other, which fill up the distance from the main -piers to the shore. These main piers rise above the level of the road 50 -feet, and through them two archways, each 12 feet wide, admit a passage. -Over the top of these piers, four rows of chains, the extremities of -which are firmly secured in the rocks at each end of the bridge, are -thrown; two of them nearly in the centre, about four feet apart, and one -at each side. The floor of the road is formed of logs of wood, well -covered with pitch, and then strewn over with granite broken very small, -forming, by its adhesion to the pitch, a solid body, impervious to the -wet. A light lattice work of wrought iron to the height of about six -feet, prevents the possibility of accidents by falling over, and allows a -clear view of the scenery on both sides, which can be seen to great -advantage from this height. Having expressed our admiration of the skill -evident in the construction, at once so simple and so useful, and having -satisfied our curiosity on the top, we descended by a precipitous path to -the level of the water, and gazed upwards with wonder, at the immense -flat surface above us, and its connecting gigantic arches. The road is -100 feet above high water, and the arches spring at the height of 60 feet -from abutments of solid masonry, with a span of 52 feet. These abutments -taper gradually from their base to where the arch commences, and immense -masses as they are, show no appearance of heaviness; indeed, taking the -whole of the Menai Bridge together, a more perfect union of beauty with -utility cannot be conceived. It has been erected to bear a weight upon -the chains of 2000 tons; the whole weight at present imposed is only 500, -leaving an available strength of 1,500 tons; so that there is an easy -remedy for a complaint which has been made of its too great vibration in -a gale of wind, by laying additional weight upon it. The granite, of -which the piers and arches are built, is a species of marble, admitting a -very high polish; of this the peasantry in the neighbourhood avail -themselves, and every one has some specimen of polished marble ready to -offer the tourist. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and elegance, -in this grand work of art, that it harmonises and accords perfectly with -the natural scenery around, and though itself an object of admiration, -still, in connection, it heightens the effect of the general view. - - - -MONA, OR ANGLESEA, {206} - - -which forms one of the six counties of North Wales, was to that -principality what the island of Sicily was to Italy, its granary, and -chief dependence for subsistence; it was likewise the favourite spot, and -the last asylum of the Druids in Britain; it was to their venerable and -sacred groves, in this their last sanctuary, that they fled from Roman -tyranny; and it was here, around their altars, defenceless and -undefended, save by firebrands snatched from beneath the sacrifice, that -these venerable bigots fell, on the score of their religion, under the -murderous swords of Pagans, who, their means of attaining knowledge being -considered, were more ignorant than themselves. Neither have we a right, -on the bare testimony of these their bloody tyrannical persecutors, to -believe them to have been guilty of the horrid rites and human sacrifices -of which they are accused. In what portion of history do we find the -state, the hero, or the conqueror, wanting a good and sufficient reason -to cover the plea for conquest or aggression; and, above all, do we ever -find the Romans, throughout their history, wanting in such plea to cover -the basest of their actions? It was the religious stimulus by which the -Druids urged the Britons, even the females, to deeds of heroic madness, -to which the Romans owed the dear purchase in life and blood of their -British conquest; and which, whilst that stimulus existed, they were but -too well aware, must ever be insecure: no wonder then, that to cover the -inhumanity of a cold-blooded warfare of extermination against a -priesthood, that controlled and guided the energies of a daring people, -they should represent them in their bloody orgies as immolating human -victims: nay, most probably, even the accusation was founded in truth, -but grossly and wilfully misrepresented; for the ministers of religion -being, most probably, the administrators of justice, and sole keepers of -traditionary laws, the sacrifice of guilty culprits to such laws, to make -a deeper impression on the minds of hardy but superstitious barbarians, -was made a religious act. When we reflect on the late horrible -sacrifices that have been made in this country in the nineteenth century, -to its offended laws, and on those disgusting, though less dreadful -exhibitions, which are made so frequently, in a leading street of the -metropolis of Britain, that they, from their business-like, unceremonious -mode of execution, no longer deter from similar offences: and when we see -the culprits come forth attended by ministers of religion, who may appear -to uninformed by-standers to superintend the ceremony, as to the lot of -one of them it falls to give the fatal signal; we should reflect how such -a spectacle may be misrepresented by an Indian, a Chinese, or an -Esquimaux, and then judge with due candour of the religious rites and -actions of the Druids. - -Anglesea can no longer, with propriety, as it did of old, bear the title -of Ynys Dowyll, or the Shady Island; for those sacred groves, those -venerable oaks, which fell not under the harsh mandates of its Roman, -Saxon, or English invaders, have yielded to the hand of time, or the -avarice of man; and the late appearance of the island was unsheltered and -exposed, almost with the exception of the respected hallowed shades of -Plas-Newydd and Baron Hill; but numerous and thriving plantations are now -springing up, doing away with that sterile appearance; and the better and -more speedily to accomplish this desirable end, public nursery grounds -have been established in the centre of the island, to afford facilities -for, and to encourage, planting. It has had the desired effect; and by -an improvement in smelting the ore, and extracting the sulphur from it, -vegetation is no longer injured, even where there is any soil on the -Parys Mountain. - -It was formerly divided into seven districts, or comots, but at present -its divisions are only six. It contains about two hundred thousand acres -of land; is in length, from north-west to south-east, about twenty miles; -in breadth, from north-east to south-west, about sixteen miles; and in -circumference about seventy-six miles: has seventy-four parishes, and -four market-towns, and is in the diocese of Bangor. The number of houses -are estimated at 7183; the inhabitants at 37,045. It sends two members -to parliament, one for the county and one for Beaumaris. - -From its too great deficiency of wood, and live fences, the sterility of -the Parys Mountain and its vicinity, and the rocky appearance of the -soil, there was formerly no semblance of that exuberant fertility that -would allow this small partially cultivated island to export to the -extent it does, both in live stock and grain, viz. about 15,000 head of -black cattle, about 5000 hogs, great numbers of sheep, and nearly 4000 -quarters of corn, besides numerous other articles of produce and -manufacture. Its climate is more mild than that of Wales generally, but -it is at the same time subject to fogs and damp; the advantage and -disadvantage both attributable to the sea breezes. It is well watered by -numerous rivulets, and has abundance of harbours: among the first is that -well known and highly useful one of Holyhead, which has of late been -greatly improved: that of Beaumaris is likewise good, and capable of -carrying on considerable trade. Besides these, there are the minor ones -of Red Wharf Bay, Dulas Bay, Amlwch, from which the copper ore, &c. -obtained from Parys Mountain is shipped, and which might be greatly -improved, Cemlyn, Aberfraw, &c.: most, or all of them, might, at a small -expense, be rendered still more safe and useful. Besides its exports in -corn and cattle, this small island carries on great trade in copper, -ochre, sulphur, mill-stones, lead, &c. &c. It likewise produces various -specimens of marble (well known in London as Mona marbles,) and amongst -others the asbestos: it yields potter’s clay and fullers’ earth, as well -as coals, which are now worked in the neighbourhood of Llangefni. -Neither is the sea less bountiful than the land, affording a bill of fare -that would not disgrace the table of a London alderman. - -On account of the great thoroughfare which this island has become since -the Union, from the exertions made by government to afford safety and -facility in the forwarding the principal Irish mails and despatches, the -roads are kept in excellent order. - - - -BEAUMARIS, - - -the largest and best built town in Anglesea, is pleasantly situated on -the western shore of the bay of that name, and commands a fine view of -the sea and the Caernarvonshire mountains. Its original name was Porth -Wygyr. Its harbour is well sheltered, and affords ample protection for -coasters and ships of considerable burthen, which, during northerly -winds, are driven there in great numbers, to avoid the dangers of a lee -shore. As no manufactures of consequence are carried on in its -neighbourhood, it is rather calculated for great retirement than for -active bustle; but being the county town it is now and then enlivened by -the gaieties attendant upon assizes, elections, and other public -meetings. - -The castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the estate of Richard -Bulkeley Williams Bulkeley, Esq. close to the town, and covers a -considerable space of ground; but from its low situation it was always -inferior in point of strength to the castles of Conway and Caernarvon. - -Close above the town is Baron Hill, the seat of R. B. Williams Bulkeley, -Esq. delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly wooded bank, and -possessing a complete command of every object which can add to the charms -of picturesque scenery. The park extends to, and nearly surrounds, the -west and north sides of the town; whilst the rising ground, upon which -the mansion stands, shelters the town from the rude blasts that would -otherwise assail it; thus giving it that protection from the raging -elements which the last noble owner ever afforded to its inhabitants, -when sorrow and adversities assailed their domestic peace. To enumerate -all the acts of Lord Bulkeley’s munificence and kindness would be -impossible, but a few of them may be seen in the neighbourhood of -Beaumaris. - -The beautiful road of four miles and a half, along the shore of the Menai -to the suspension bridge, was made at the expense of Lord and Lady -Bulkeley, in 1804: it cost about 3000_l._ and, when completed, was -presented to the public, and kept in repair by the owner of Baron Hill -until 1827, when an act of parliament was obtained, making it a public -road, and commissioners appointed, who have erected a turnpike-gate -thereon, and under whose inspection and influence it has been -considerably improved in width, and the precipices reduced. A road -possessed of greater picturesque beauty is not to be found in Britain. - -The church was kept in repair by the late Lord Bulkeley, to which he -presented a new organ, a set of elegant communion plate, a clock, and a -peal of six fine toned bells; together costing about 1200_l._ He also -gave a good house to the rector for the time being. The national school, -as well as the master’s house, was built by public subscription, on land -given by the late Lord Bulkeley, and the master’s and mistress’s salaries -were paid by him and his lady. - -Many more acts of their liberality might be enumerated, but these are -sufficient to prove them zealous protecting friends and kind neighbours. -Their numerous deeds of private charity ought not to be blazoned to the -world, but they will live long in the grateful remembrance of those -around them. - -Beaumaris, situated 249 miles from London, had, in 1811, 249 houses, and -1,810 inhabitants; and in 1821 a population of 2,205. It is governed by -a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four capital burgesses, and -several inferior officers. It formerly possessed an extensive trade; but -has declined since the rise of Liverpool. - -From Beaumaris we proceeded, by Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, to Amlwch; the -distance is about sixteen miles, through a pleasant country, in parts -greatly resembling England. About a mile from Red Wharf Bay you pass the -village of Pentraeth, _The End of the Sands_. The situation is pleasant; -and Mr. Grose was so taken with the picturesque beauty of its small -church, as to give a view of it in his Antiquities. - -Near this, in a field at Plâs Gwynne, the seat of the Panton family, are -two stones, placed, as tradition says, to mark the bounds of an -astonishing leap, which obtained for the active performer of it the wife -of his choice; but it appears, that as he leaped into her affections with -difficulty, he ran away from them with ease; for going to a distant part -of the country, where he had occasion to reside several years, he found, -on his return, that his wife had, on that very morning, been married to -another person. Eenion, on hearing this, took his harp, and, sitting -down at the door, explained in Welsh metre who he was, and where he had -been resident. His wife narrowly scrutinized his person, unwilling to -give up her new spouse, when he exclaimed: - - Look not, Angharad, on my silver hair, - Which once shone bright of golden lively hue: - Man does not last like gold:—he that was fair - Will soon decay, though gold continue new. - - If I have lost Angharad, lovely fair! - The gift of brave Ednyfed, and my spouse, - All I’ve not lost, (all must from hence repair), - Nor bed, nor harp, nor yet my ancient house. - - I once have leap’d to show my active power, - A leap which none could equal or exceed, - The leap in Aber Nowydd, which thou, fair flower! - Didst once so much admire, thyself the meed. - - Full fifty feet, as still the truth is known, - And many witnesses can still attest; - How there the prize I won, thyself must own: - This action stamp’d my worth within thy breast. - - BINGLEY’S NORTH WALES. - -At Llanfair, which is about a mile distant from this road, was born the -celebrated scholar and poet, Goronwy Owen, who, notwithstanding his -acknowledged and admired abilities, was, after a series of hardships and -struggles, obliged to expatriate himself to the wilds of Virginia, where -he was appointed pastor of the church. He was well versed in the Latin, -Greek, and oriental languages, was a skilful antiquary and an excellent -poet. His Latin odes are greatly admired; but his Welsh poems rank him -among the most distinguished bards of his country. - -About five miles west of Beaumaris is Peny-mynydd, the birth-place of -Owen Tudor, a private gentleman, who, having married Catherine of France, -the Dowager of our Henry V. in 1428, became the ancestor of a line of -monarchs. They had three sons and one daughter. The daughter died in -her infancy: Edmund was created Earl of Richmond, and marrying a daughter -of the Duke of Somerset, had Henry, afterwards Henry VII. Jasper was -created Earl of Pembroke; and Owen became a monk. By means of his -marriage, therefore, Owen Tudor not only became father to a line of -kings, but in his son, as Gray says, Wales came to be governed again by -their own princes. - -The Tudor family became extinct in Richmond Tudor, who died in 1657, and -the estate belongs to R. B. Williams Bulkeley, Esq. In the church is one -of their monuments, removed from Lanvaes Abbey at its dissolution. - - - -LLANELIAN - - -is about two miles east of Amlwch, near the coast: Mr. Bingley’s account -of which, and the superstitious ceremonies still attaching to it, is both -curious and entertaining: - - “The church is by no means an inelegant structure; and adjoining to - it is a small chapel of very ancient foundation, that measures in its - interior twelve feet by fifteen, called Myfyr, _the confessional_. A - curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal form, called _St. Elian’s - closet_, is yet left in the east wall; and is supposed to have served - both the office of communion table, and as a chest to contain the - vestments and other utensils belonging to the chapel. There is a - hole in the wall of the chapel, through which the priests are - supposed to have received confessions: the people believe this hole - to have been used in returning oracular answers to persons who made - inquiries of the saint respecting future events. Near the door is - placed Cyff Elian, _Elian’s chest_, or poor-box. People out of - health, even to this day, send their offering to the saint, which - they put through a hole into the box. A silver groat, though not a - very common coin, is said to be a present peculiarly acceptable, and - has been known to procure his intercession, when all other kinds of - coin have failed! The sum thus deposited, which in the course of a - year frequently amounts to several pounds, the churchwardens annually - divide among the poor of the parish. - - “The wakes of Llanelian were formerly held on the three first Friday - evenings in August; but they are now confined to only one of those - days. Young persons from all parts of the adjacent country, and even - from distant counties, assemble here; most of whom have along with - them some offering for the saint, to ensure their future prosperity, - palliate their offences, and secure blessings on their families, - their cattle, and corn. - - “The misguided devotees assemble about the chapel, and having - deposited their offerings, many of them proceed to search into their - future destiny in a very singular manner, by means of the wooden - closet. Persons of both sexes, of all ages and sizes, enter the - small door-way, and if they can succeed in turning themselves round - within the narrow limits of the place, (which measures only betwixt - three and four feet in height, about four feet across the back, and - eighteen inches in width,) they believe that they shall be fortunate - till at least the ensuing wake; but if they do not succeed in this - difficult undertaking, they esteem it an omen of ill fortune, or of - their death within the year. I have been told, that it is curious - enough to see a stout lusty fellow, weighing perhaps sixteen or - eighteen stone, striving to creep into these narrow confines, with as - much confidence of success as a stripling a yard high; and when he - fails in the attempt, to see him fuming and fretting, because his - body, which contains in solid bulk more than the place could hold, - were it crammed into all corners, cannot be got in. But when we - consider that superstition and enthusiasm have generally little to do - with reason, we must not wonder at this addition to the heap of - incongruities that all ages have afforded us. - - “Llanelian was formerly a sanctuary, or place of refuge for - criminals. In digging a grave in the churchyard, about sixteen years - ago, a deep trench was discovered, which extended about twenty yards - in a transverse direction across. It was found to contain a great - quantity of human bones; and is supposed to have been the place of - interment of a number of sailors, who perished in a storm that drove - them upon this coast.” - - - -AMLWCH, - - -or _the Winding Loch_, is a dirty-looking straggling town, founded on -rocks. It owes its support chiefly to the copper works in its vicinity. -The church is a neat modern structure, dedicated to Elaeth, a British -saint: the port, which is but small, is notwithstanding excellently -adapted for the trade which is carried on; it is narrow, capable of only -containing two vessels abreast, of about 200 tons burthen each, and of -these it will furnish room for about thirty; the entrance is by a chasm -between two rocks. - -The Parys Mountain, like the works at Merthyr, shews what the industry of -man is capable of accomplishing in removing rocks, mountains, and -dragging forth the bowels of the earth. To those who possess good -nerves, the view of this scene of wealth and industry will afford -gratification unalloyed; but to those not so blessed, the horrific -situations in which the principal actors of the scene are placed, poised -in air, exposed to the blasting of the rocks, and the falling of -materials, which themselves are sending aloft, or from those which may be -misdirected, as ascending from the workings of others, by striking -against projecting crags, seem to threaten death in so many varied -shapes, that the wonder and admiration excited by the place are lost in -pity and anxiety for the hardy miners. - -From the top of the mountain the dreadful yawning chasm, with the -numerous stages erected over the edge of the precipice, appal rather than -gratify the observer. To see the mine to advantage, you must descend to -the bottom, and be provided with a guide, to enable you to shun the -danger, that would be considerable, from the blasts and falling -materials; the workmen generally not being able to see those that their -operations may endanger. - -The Mona mine is the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea. The -Parys mine is shared. - -The mountain has been worked with varied success for about sixty-five -years: it is now believed to be under the average; but whether that -arises from the low price of the article, or the mine being exhausted, I -am unable to say: for a considerable period it produced 20,000 tons -annually. One bed of ore was upwards of sixty feet in thickness. In the -blasting the rock, to procure the ore, from six to eight tons of -gunpowder are yearly consumed. - -“This celebrated mountain,” says Mr. Evans, “is easily distinguished from -the rest; for it is perfectly barren from the summit to the plain below: -not a single shrub, and hardly a blade of grass, being able to live in -its sulphurous atmosphere. - - “No grassy mantle hides the sable hills, - No flowery chaplet crowns the trickling rills; - Nor tufted moss, nor leathery lichen creeps - In russet tapestry, o’er the crumbling steeps.” - - DARWIN. - - [Picture: Map of North Wales] - -From hence we proceeded to - - - -HOLYHEAD, - - -called in Welsh _Caergybi_, situated on an island at the western -extremity of Anglesea. It has lately changed its aspect from a poor -fishing village to a decent looking town, in consequence of its being the -chief resort for passengers to and from Dublin. The distance across the -channel is about fifty-five miles; and there are four steam packets which -daily cross the channel, with the mail and government despatches. - -Each vessel has two cabins, beautifully fitted up, light and airy; and -every thing appears to have been attended to, that can either add to the -comfort or safety of the passengers: expense has not been spared for that -which was useful, and conducive to safety; and the equipment having been -superintended by the late Captain Rogers, an experienced officer, on the -Holyhead station, nothing has been misapplied. The passage is effected -in from five and a half to seven hours, a distance of fifty-five miles; -and the letters are delivered in Dublin from London in the short space of -forty hours. - -In short, the attention which government has evinced to facilitate the -communication between the two kingdoms merits every praise. Neither -exertion nor expense have been spared in improving the roads from -Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which improvements have been executed under the -direction of Mr. Telford, who is now commencing on that from Chester to -the above place; and now the suspension bridge over Conway Ferry (for -which parliament voted 40,000_l._) is completed, in addition to that over -the Menai at Bangor Ferry, but few persons will run the risk of a -dilatory and dangerous passage by Liverpool, when they may have a certain -and a safe one by Holyhead, with excellent roads and accommodation; and -without the trouble of the ferries, which were formerly an inconvenience -to persons taking this route. - -Near the centre of the town, on a rock close above the sea, is a church, -on the site where _St. Cybi_, in A.D. 380, founded a small monastery, -which, in 580, was converted into a college by _Maelgwyn Gwynedd_, or, -according to some, by _Hwfa ap Cynddelw_, Lord of Llifon, one of the -fifteen tribes of North Wales. James I. granted this college to Francis -Morris and Francis Phillips, which afterwards became the property of Rice -Gwyn, Esq. who bestowed the great tithes on Jesus College, Oxford, for -the maintenance of two fellows and two scholars: from that time the -parish has been served by a curate nominated by the college. This church -is a handsome embattled edifice, built in the form of a cross, with this -inscription, on a pediment of the north transept: “_Sancte Kyb. ora pro -nobis_.” The walls of the churchyard are seventeen feet high, six feet -thick, and form a quadrangle; three sides of which are evidently Roman, -although ascribed to _Caswellon Llawhir_, a chieftain of Anglesea, in the -fifth century: the east side is a modern low wall on the verge of the -cliffs. - -A fine extensive pier is now completed, on an island called _Ynys-halen_, -which forms the north side of the harbour; at the extremity of which is a -fine light-house, exhibiting a brilliant light by oil gas. This grand -national undertaking has already afforded an asylum to the trade of the -Channel: no less than sixty or eighty vessels have entered the harbour in -one day, and many more have sailed out in one tide. Before the erection -of the pier, which commenced in 1809, many valuable vessels, seeking for -shelter in stormy weather, were lost with their crews on the southern -shores of the harbour. From this port are sent upwards of 40,000 bushels -of excellent grain every year. It contains 4071 inhabitants. - -Under the mountain which overhangs the town, called the Head, is a large -cavern, supported by natural huge pillars, named the Parliament House: -this, as well as several others, perforate deep into the mountain, and is -inaccessible without a boat. The South Slack light-house, on an islet, -within about twenty yards of the bold cliffs of the mountain, exhibits a -revolving light of the greatest utility. The islet is connected with the -mountain by means of a suspension bridge, which is worthy the attention -of the curious. Among these rocks vast numbers of the peregrine falcon -take, up their abode, together with pigeons, gulls, puffins, razor-bills, -and other sea-birds. - -In returning from Holyhead, instead of taking the old circuitous line of -road by Gwyndee and Llangefni, we took the new road, formed by Mr. -Telford under the direction of the parliamentary commissioners, and which -cost government, exclusive of bridges and embankments, at the rate of -2000_l._ per mile. The steepest part of the present line does not exceed -one in thirty, and is considered the finest specimen of road-making in -the kingdom, and at the same time reduces the distance from Holyhead to -Bangor full three miles. - -Having again reached Bangor, we determined still farther to explore the -beauties of this delightful spot and its vicinity. Having taken a hasty -refreshment, we bent our steps towards Aber cegin, near the mouth of a -small rivulet that empties itself into Port Penrhyn, and from thence -proceeded to - - - -PENRHYN CASTLE, - - -the mansion of George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq. which is delightfully -situated on a wooded eminence, between the estuaries of the Cegin and the -Ogwen, about two miles east of the city of Bangor. It commands a fine -view of the bay and town of Beaumaris to the north; the great Ormes Head, -and Penmaen-mawr terminate the prospect on the east; and towards the -south, the scene is closed by a bold and romantic range of mountains. - -A short distance west of the Castle is Port Penrhyn, where the slates are -brought down from Mr. Pennant’s quarry, and shipped in immense quantities -to various parts of the world. It is easy of access, perfectly -sheltered, and capable of accommodating trading vessels of upwards of 300 -tons burthen. - -It is but justice to the successor of the late Lord Penrhyn to say, that -along with the estate, he appears to inherit the same spirit for -improvement. The recent extension of the quay at Port Penrhyn, is one of -the many instances which might be recited; by it, accommodation has been -given to about fifty sail of traders, in addition to the former -shipping-place, making the total length of the quay upwards of three -hundred yards. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegin, which runs in -at the head of the port, forms a complete connexion between the quay, the -limeworks, the sea-shore, and the city. - -Penrhyn Castle possesses a great curiosity; and Mr. Evans’s account of -it, in his Topography, being both judicious and entertaining, I subjoin -it. It is the Hirlas or drinking-horn of Piers Gryffydd, which is -perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of utensil elucidatory of -ancient manners. - -“It is a large bugle horn of an ox, ornamented with enchased silver, and -suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own -name and family engraved at the end. In the royal court of Cambria, -there were legally _three_ sorts of horns, for the purpose of private or -public libations. The first was y corn ydd yfo y brenin, or the one -solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, corn cyweithas, by which -the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty. And, third, corn y -pencynydd, committed to the custody of the chief huntsman. Each of these -was to be of the reputed value of one pound. On grand occurrences, the -domestics of the palace were permitted to drink out of the sovereign’s -horn, and the chamberlain, or high steward, on such occasions, furnished -handsome potations of the generous metheglin. The contents of the horn, -at these times, assumed the name of the sacred potion, similar to the -_wassail bowl_, or the apostle’s cup, in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, -when he conveyed certain lands to the church of York, is said to have -quaffed off the sparkling contents of such a vessel, drinking a health, -“_Deo et Sancto Petro_,” to God and St. Peter. On festive days, the -imperious custom was to empty the horn at one tip, and instantly blow it, -as a testimony that no dereliction of draught had occurred. - - “Fill the horn with foaming liquor, - Fill it up, my boy, be quicker; - Hence away despair and sorrow, - Time enough to sigh to-morrow. - Let the brimming goblet smile, - And Ednyfed’s cares beguile. - Gallant youth, unus’d to fear, - Master of the broken spear; - And the arrow-pierced shield, - Brought with honour from the field. - Like a hurricane is he - Bursting on the troubled sea. - See their spears distain’d with gore, - Hear the din of battle roar, - Bucklers, swords, together clashing, - Sparkles from their helmets flashing, - Hear ye not their loud alarms? - Hark! they shout—to arms! to arms! - Thus were Garthen’s plains defended, - Melor fight, began and ended: - There two princes fought: and there - Was Mowrach Vowran’s feast exchang’d for rout and fear.” {224} - -The rail-road and inclined planes formed by the late Lord Penrhyn, to -reduce the labour and risk of bringing down the slates to the port, with -numerous other improvements, are estimated to have cost his lordship one -hundred and seventy thousand pounds. - -The much-admired church of Llandegai is a neat Gothic edifice, which has -recently been greatly improved and beautified; the late Lady Penrhyn -having left a noble bequest for that purpose. “The whole interior has -been renewed, viz. the seats, pulpit, communion, ceiling, plaistering, -and floor, and the tower raised, in order to admit a peal of six bells: a -legacy for which has been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as well as one for -the erection of a monument to her deceased lord, which is now fixed up in -the church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of work.”—_Williams_. - -It is made of statuary marble, and represents two large figures; the one -is a female peasant girl weeping over the loss of her deceased lord and -lady; the other a quarryman, with an iron bar and slate knife in his -hand, earnestly regarding the inscription, which commemorates his -benefactors. Besides these, the following four smaller figures strongly -depict the wonderful changes effected on the face of the country, and on -the morals, habits, and comforts of its inhabitants, by the noble and -spirited exertions of the late Lord Penrhyn. - -The first is a boy, with two reeds in his mouth, feeding his goats on the -mountains, being an emblem of this country, on its appearance to Lord -Penrhyn when it was in a very rough state. 2nd, Two boys working in the -slate quarry; being an emblem of industry. 3rd, One boy teaching -another; being an emblem of religion. 4th, Three boys standing in a -wheat field, bearing their sickles; being an emblem or representation of -plenty. Here likewise are interred the remains of the celebrated -Archbishop Williams; who is represented in his robes, in a kneeling -position, on a mural monument. - -Mr. Pennant’s slate quarry is about six miles from Bangor, on the road to -Capel-Curig, and Cerniogi-Mawr. St. Ann’s Chapel, near the quarries, was -erected and liberally endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn -left a sum of money for an organ, and a suitable stipend for the -organist. - -The traveller is greatly indebted to the present Mr. Pennant, as well as -to the late Lord Penrhyn, for the very great and comfortable -accommodation he now derives from their exertions on this line of road. -The inn at Capel-Curig is now large and convenient; in addition to which, -and to save time, Mr. Pennant has caused to be erected a cottage and -stables, to enable parties in haste, as well as the mail and coaches, to -change horses without going down to the inn. - -Near the slate quarry is the pretty cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, -called Ogwen Bank. It is a perfect paradise, arising out of chaos; the -style is the florid Gothic, and shews great taste in the designer. The -centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming the segment of a -circle; the wings contain coach-houses and stabling. Over the river -Ogwen, in a rough and picturesque part of it, is a bridge corresponding -with the house. All visitors to the house are requested to sign their -names in a book kept for that purpose. This beautiful cottage is hid -from the road by the trees and plantations. - -Having satisfied ourselves with the view of this charming retreat, we -proceeded to a comfortable inn, called Tynymaes, (now a post-house, with -good stables,) and partook of some refreshment, prior to a more full -investigation of the horrors and beauties of the vale of Beavers, or Nant -Ffrancon; for in this once solitary and dreadful glen, those useful and -astonishingly ingenious animals were once found, whose skins were then -valued at 120 pence. The awful grandeur of the surrounding barren rugged -rocks are finely contrasted by the rich verdant bottom of the glen, and -the thick foliage and luxuriant plantations of Ogwen Bank. Descending -from the road into a hollow, we had a fine view of the cataracts of -Benlog; down which the waters of five lakes rush into the pool beneath; -the lower fall of the three, which is the largest, is seen to the -greatest advantage by climbing a rugged rock. “Here,” says Mr. Bingley, -“the stream roared with vast fury, and in one sheet of foam, down an -unbroken and almost perpendicular rock. The sun shone directly upon it, -and a prismatic bow was beautifully formed by the spray. The tremendous -roar of the water, and the broken and uncouth disposition of the -immediately surrounding rocks, added greatly to the interest of the -scene. After a while I climbed a rocky steep to the second or middle -fall. Here the river is precipitated, in a fine stream, through a chasm -between two perpendicular rocks that each rise several yards above. From -the station I took, the immense mountain Trivain was seen to fill up the -wide space at the top; heightened greatly in effect by a dark aërial tint -arising from the extreme heat of the day, and the lowering clouds that -were floating around. The masses of black rocks, surrounded by foam, -near the top of the fall, I could have fancied were floating along the -torrent, and rushing to the bottom. The stream widens as it descends, -and below passes over a slanting rock, which gives it somewhat of a -different direction. In the foreground was the rugged bed of the stream, -and the water was seen to dash in various directions among the broken -masses of rock. The third cataract, to which I now clambered, I found -very grand and majestic, yet by no means equal to either of the former. -These waterfalls are scarcely known in the adjacent country, and have -been unaccountably omitted even in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, although this -gentleman accurately describes most of the scenery around them. - -“Leaving the falls, the trouble of visiting which had been amply repaid -by the pleasure I had derived from them, I regained the road. On -crossing the upper end of the vale, I was delighted with a very beautiful -and unexpected view for nearly its whole length; where the mountains down -each side appeared, to a great distance, falling off in beautiful -perspective.” - -Mr. Bingley experienced not more pleasure than we did in the view of -these cataracts; but he was fortunate in having more leisure to add to -it, by viewing Y Trivaen, or the Three Summits, which bounds the right -extremity of the hollow, and Llyn Ogwen, from which the river of that -name takes its rise: Mr. Hutton’s description of it made us greatly -regret the pleasure we were obliged to decline; but having upwards of -five miles to return to Bangor, although our road was all down hill, we -found it necessary so to do, from the previous fatigues of the day: -rocks, Welsh roads, and the viewing of slate quarries, prove the stamina -of a tourist. Mr. Hutton approached Llyn Ogwen from Capel-Curig, where -there is now an excellent inn, much frequented during the summer months -by parties of pleasure. His description is as follows: - -“A stranger to the country, to the language, and almost to man, I -returned to Nant Gwynant, slept at Capel-Curig, and was wandering over -Lord Penrhyn’s new road towards Caernarvon. The cascades on my left were -rolling down with violence, after heavy rain, when a sheet of water, one -mile long and three quarters wide, presented itself to view; which by the -map I knew must be Ogwen Pool. But what was my surprise, when, at the -extremity of the pool, I instantly found myself upon a precipice two -hundred feet high, and, in a moment, a most beautiful valley burst upon -me of nearly one mile wide and four long; the river rushing down this -precipice in several stages, and winding full in view through this -delightful valley. The rocks appeared tremendous, the mountains sloping, -and the verdure increasing with the descent to the bottom, where, if -poetically inclined, I might say, ‘Nature sat in majesty, adorned in her -best robe of green velvet.’ When I had travelled about three miles along -this sequestered valley, I saw four people endeavouring to repair a gate. -I addressed one who appeared likely to understand English. He readily -answered several questions respecting the road, and other objects. ‘My -way, I am informed, Sir, lies through Nant Ffrancon; pray how shall I -know when I am in it?’ ‘You are in it now.’ Over part of this vale -impends Yr ala wen, its front torn into amazing gullies.” - -The new mail-road between Bangor and Cernioga Mawr, through Capel-Curig, -saves upwards of nine miles; by this road, through Shrewsbury, the -distance to London is two hundred and thirty-six miles three furlongs: -the old mail-road, through Chester, is two hundred and fifty-one miles -one furlong; and the former road, through Shrewsbury, Llanrwst, Conway, -and over Penmaen-mawr, is two hundred and forty-five miles, or by -Bridgenorth, two hundred and fifty-two miles. - -Along this road lies some exquisite scenery: and the following passage -from the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, will agreeably -illustrate the feelings with which it impregnated the author. - -“As Helvidius was making an excursion among the mountains, stretching to -the east of Moelshiabod, he arrived at the bridge, across a small -rivulet; and sitting down upon the grass, fell asleep under the shade of -a large holly tree. He awoke just as the sun was sinking in the horizon; -a slight shower succeeded; all nature became renovated; and the perfumes, -which embalmed the air, seemed even capable of wafting him to the Elysian -Fields. The tree, beneath which he reposed, stood in a valley, matchless -even in the Island of Madagascar; and the cones of several mountains gave -an air of grandeur to the perspective, which nature has forbidden in most -other regions. He was lost, as it were, in the enthusiasm of his -admiration! At that moment Lord — passed in his coach, apparently -insensible to the scenes through which he was conveyed. Oh! how an -indiscriminate mingling with men blunts the best feelings of the human -heart! ‘Had his Lordship,’ thought Helvidius, ‘seen these lovely -pictures, even a thousand and a thousand times before, he might have -derived enjoyment from witnessing them again; since it is the autumnal -season of the year; and the woods, and shrubs growing out of the rocks, -are variegated in a manner that even Salvator Rosa would have loved to -look upon them!’ - -“Though Helvidius was mortified at this insensibility on the part of the -statesman, and felt so ready to condemn his taste and want of -sensibility, he was weak enough to feel more at war with himself than -with him; and began seriously to question which were the wiser of the -two; the man who loves, or he who neglects, the varied objects of the -material world. ‘He is a Peer,’ exclaimed he to himself, ‘a man of -education,—a statesman,—one who is looked up to in the world, as being, -in a manner, pre-eminent over his species:—he seems to have little relish -for all these objects, which I have been looking upon with such -enthusiasm. It must be folly and weakness in me, therefore, to indulge -this humour; a humour, which, from what I have seen of mankind, I am -sensible that most men, who look not up through every object they see, to -the Architect that makes it, would esteem frivolous and idle, if not -criminal. There are no silver mines here: nor does this rivulet leave -any gold-dust upon its shores!’ He sat down mortified. To dissipate his -chagrin, he took a volume of Epictetus out of his pocket, and opening the -book, his eye alighted upon the following passage. ‘As when you see an -asp in a golden casket, you do not esteem that asp happy, because it is -inclosed in materials so costly and so magnificent, but despise and would -shun it, on account of its venom: so, when you see vice lodged in the -midst of wealth and the swelling pride of fortune, be not struck with the -splendour of the materials, with which it is surrounded, but despise the -gross alloy of its manners and sentiments.’ Upon reading this passage, -Helvidius became instantly ashamed of his folly, and reconciled to his -enthusiasm. ‘Though this is a man,’ said he to himself, ‘who, like the -King of Sweden’s enchanted cup, can almost make the wind turn to any part -of the compass, which pleases his humour most: though he is perpetually -surrounded by persons, who, if he were to take his shoe from off his -foot, hurl it into the air, and proclaim it a god, would worship it as it -fell; and though he is a rising sun, whom half the world would worship; -yet would I rather be able to trace the Power which formed this -holly-tree, up to as far as my imagination is capable of soaring, than be -the man for him to shake by the hand; to admit to his banquets; to revel -with his minions; to hang, as it were, upon his lips; and to be raised to -ecstasy by his smiles! - - “Climb at court for me that will - Tottering favour’s pinnacle; - All I wish is to be still. - Settled in some secret nest, - In calm quiet let me rest: - And far from off the public stage, - Pass away my quiet age.” - -On leaving Bangor we proceeded to the pretty little village of Aber, -which gives its name to the last of the ferries over the Menai. The walk -from the village across the Lavan Sands to the ferry is about four miles. -This walk it would be hazardous for a stranger to undertake without a -guide, as the sands frequently shift. During foggy weather, the large -bell of Aber, given for this purpose by Lord Bulkeley, is constantly -rung, as a guide to direct those coming from the island. - -Near the bridge is a circular mount, seemingly artificial, which was the -foundation of a small castle, probably constructed of timber, as many of -the Welsh fortresses were; the vestiges of the moat and its feeder from -the river still remain. - -“Traces of buildings have been discovered near the spot, which were -probably the remains of the prince’s palace, as the inhabitants still -pretend to show strangers the foundation of the old kitchen. Several -memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn, -which is the ancient name by which this place was -distinguished.”—_Williams_. - -At the siege of Montgomery, in the reign of Henry the Third, Llewelyn ap -Iorwerth took prisoner a potent baron, named William de Breos, whom he -conducted to this castle. William, who was both accomplished and -handsome, gained not only the friendship of his conqueror, but likewise -the affections of his wife, {233} with whom he ventured to carry on an -intrigue. This not having been discovered by Llewelyn till after the -baron had been ransomed, he condescended to resort to a breach of -hospitality, for the purpose of getting him again into his power. - -De Breos having accepted an invitation from Llewelyn to visit him, the -latter no sooner got possession of his person, than he caused him to be -hung on the side of the opposite hill. The next morning the bard of the -palace (the princess being ignorant of his fate) accosted her in the -following rhyme: - - “Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn, - Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?” - - “Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of your - William?” - -To which the princess answered: - - “Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn - Y rown I gyd am weled Gwilym!” - - “Wales and England and Llywelyn, - I’d give them all to see my William!” - -The bard, thus aggravating Llewelyn’s cruelty, shewed him to her hanging -on a tree, on the side of the hill, at a place called Wern Grogedig. -Upon a mountain, about a mile south of Llewelyn’s Castle, in a field -called Cae Gwlyn du, is a cave where William de Breos was interred, still -called Tyddyn Gwilym. - -Aber is much resorted to during the summer season, the sands at high -water affording excellent bathing: the inn likewise affords good -accommodation. It chiefly belongs to Lord Bulkeley, and exhibits -numerous proofs of his lordship’s benevolence: amongst the rest a new -steeple to the church, with a ring of bells. - -From hence, after passing Gosddinog (Mrs. Crawley’s) we soon reached the -dark lowering promontory of Pen-mawn-mawr, about eight miles from Bangor, -rising perpendicularly, in a massy wall, to the height of one thousand -four hundred feet: huge fragments of shattered rock are scattered by the -side of the road; and a wall, scarcely five feet high, alone protects a -carriage from the steep precipice; which, from the slightness of the -foundation, has even fallen down in many parts. In this awfully sublime -situation we remained for some time, astonished at the bold protuberance -of the rocks, which seemed to project their dark sides to augment the -idle roar of the waves. - -The difference between looking up and looking down a precipice is well -marked by Mr. Jefferson, in the account he furnished the Marquis de -Chastellux, of the Virginian bridge of rocks. “Though the sides of the -bridge,” says he, “are provided, in some parts, with a parapet of fixed -rocks, yet few men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into -the abyss. You voluntarily fall on your hands and feet, creep to the -parapet, and look over it. Looking from the height about a minute gave -me a violent head-ache. If the view from the top be painful and -intolerable, that from below is delightful in the extreme. It is -impossible for the emotions, arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond -what they are on the sight of so beautiful an arch; so elevated and so -light, springing up, as it were, to heaven. The rapture of the spectator -is indescribable.” - -In keeping the direct line of road the traveller leaves behind him many -antiquities worthy of attention; Mr. Williams’s account of which, from -his being a resident near the spot, appearing to be the best, as well as -containing a most full and interesting description of the ancient Welsh -or British games, I shall transcribe: at the same time strongly -recommending the work to such as wish to take a minute survey of this -county.—His route is reversed, “but as most strangers will, no doubt, -proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall be my endeavour to act as their -guide, and mention some particulars which are worth their attention along -this road. For the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he -comes to an opening between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when -all of a sudden a most magnificent scene presents itself. From hence he -commands a full view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of -small vessels; the Puffin, or Priestholm island, the village of Llangoed, -the town of Beaumaris, Baron-hill, and the Friars; the former, the -beautiful seat of the Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter, that of his -brother, Sir Robert Williams, Bart. M.P. all on the Anglesea shore. On -the Caernarvonshire side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle; and last, though not -least, the huge Penmaen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, -forming a natural barrier in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut -off every communication this way, and render any farther progress -impracticable. The art of man has, however, at length conquered these -difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772, an -excellent road was formed along the edge of this once tremendous and -dangerous precipice, under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, -parliament having generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to -this event several fatal accidents had happened here; and one or two -nearly miraculous escapes are recorded in Pennant’s tour through North -Wales. At that time no carriage passed this way, and consequently all -the travelling was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was -generally a pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, -written on a pane of glass, at the old inn (now a farm-house) near this -mountain:— - - ‘Before you venture here to pass, - Take a good refreshing glass; - And when you are over take another, - Your fainting spirits to recover.’ - -“Before the traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned, -to the little vale Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the left, -in order to examine some antiquities, near a place called Gwddw Glâs, in -that parish. Here are several circles of stones, of various diameters, -and large Carneddau, viz. barrows, or tumuli; supposed to have been -memorials of those heroes who fell in the field of battle, as cistfaens, -or stone coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these circular -heaps or collection of stones. The principal circle now consists of ten -upright stones, at unequal distances: the largest is eight feet three -inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two inches; the -diameter of this circle is eighty feet. - -“Near this are four other smaller circles; in the centre of one is a flat -stone, the remains of a cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that -it was a Druidical or bardic circle. About a quarter of a mile from -these is a large circle, composed of small stones, and near it another of -large stones; and not far from these another circle, composed of smaller -stones. - -“Near the last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the -stone of games; and nearly contiguous is a carnedd, and a small circle of -twelve stones; adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now -called in this country Cyttiau Gwyddelod (woodmen or Irishmen’s huts), -being the foundations of small buildings, made of round stones; and the -vestige of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the -Conway. Some of these last might probably have been the summer -habitations or encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, -stationed at Caer Rhun, or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their -cattle. - -“Having mentioned Maen y Campiau, it may not perhaps be considered a -digression to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British games, of which -there were ten _Gurolgampau_, or manly games; viz. 1. to lift up great -weights; 2. running; 3. leaping; 4. swimming; 5. wrestling; 6. riding. -These six were styled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up -persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, -Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included charioteering, or the skilful -driving and management of different kinds of carriages. The other four -were, 1. archery; 2. playing with the sword and buckler; 3. playing with -the Cledda deuddwrn, or two-handed sword; 4. Chwarau ffoun ddwybig, or -playing with the two-end staff or spear. Next to these were the ten -_Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men; viz. 1. -coursing; 2. fishing; 3. fowling; the remaining seven were of the -domestic kind; 1. Barddoniaeth, or poetical composition; 2. Chwareu’r -Delyn, or playing upon the harp; 3. reading Welsh; 4. singing with the -harp; 5. singing between three or four, most probably in alternate -stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. drawing or painting, particularly coats of -arms; 7. heraldry. After these were four _Gogampiau_, or minor games; -viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of draughts; 2. -Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be -derived from the Welsh language; viz. Back, little, and Cammawn, or -Gammon, Battle; and Tawl-Burdd means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau -Ffristeal, or the game of the dice-box; in what manner it was played is -not known at present; 4. Cyweiraw Telyn, or the tuning of the harp. - -“After visiting these circles, the traveller may either proceed to the -top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dygyfylchi -Church, not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is -Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq. In the clefts of the rocks, above -the turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus Aria, or white -beam-tree. Mr. Pennant observes, the Swiss procure a good kind of ardent -spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been -fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are -still visible the remains of a great number of huts, or small buildings, -most probably at one time the habitations of soldiers; it was, no doubt, -a strong military post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the -Britons and Romans. The Roman road from Segontium to Conovium must have -passed near it, probably on the south side; and this high mountain, so -conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of -link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this -county and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick (now called -Pen Dinas), a Roman encampment in the parish of Llandeiniolen, near -Caernarvon on the west, and from many fortified eminences in the other -county, on the east. The usual signals in ancient times were fires by -night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined the immense -ruins of Braich y Dinas, we now proceed along the high road, through the -parish of Llanfairfechan; and leaving that small church on an eminence, a -little to the left of the road, and on the right, Brynn y Neuadd, an old -neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq. -and afterwards conveyed to the Wynnes of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by -the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family: we soon pass -Gorddinog,” &c.—_Williams_. - -Pursuing a good turnpike-road from Mrs. Crawley’s, we presently came in -sight of the towers of - - - -CONWAY CASTLE, - - -standing on a rock, so picturesquely alluded to in the Bard of Gray. - - “On a rock, whose haughty brow - Frown’d o’er old Conway’s foaming flood, - Robed in a sable garb of woe, - With haggard eyes the poet stood.” - - [Picture: Conwy Bridge & Castle] - -The castle, built by Edward I., is a magnificent fortress, in the form of -a parallelogram. - -An air of proud sublimity, united with singular wildness, characterises -the place. The evening was far advanced, and part of the ruins were -shining with the purple glow of the setting sun, whose remaining features -stood in darkened majesty, when we entered this monument of desolation. -Passing over a plank, originally the site of the drawbridge, we came into -the outward court, strongly defended with battlements; from thence we -examined the grand entrance of the castle, with its several projecting -abutments, similar in style to those of Caernarvon. On the south side of -the court is the grand hall, measuring an hundred and thirty feet by -thirty-two, with eight light Gothic arches, five of which are still in -good condition. At one end is the chapel, with a large window, a -beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture. It was founded on the solid -rock, by Edward I., in the year 1284; the walls are from eleven to -fifteen feet thick: all the towers are defended by small round turrets, -projecting two or three feet over, with a regular communication round the -whole castle by galleries, on the same plan as at Caernarvon. The steps -are decayed and broken, and the looseness of the stones rendered a -footing very insecure; but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we -ascended the most perfect tower, and an extensive prospect presented -itself to our view. The foundation of one of the principal towers, -looking towards a small river, which here joins the Conway, has lately -given way, and torn down with it part of the building; the remainder now -hangs in an extraordinary manner. The whole town is enclosed with strong -walls, and defended by a number of towers, which communicate with the -castle by a gallery; there are likewise several gateways at certain -distances. - -The ancient church next attracted our attention, but did not detain us -long, as the monuments for the Wynnes are the only things worthy of -inspection, except the following inscription, which is engraved on a flat -stone, in the nave of the church: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas -Hookes, of Conway, Gent. who was the 41st child of his father, William -Hookes, Esq. by Alice, his wife, and father of 27 children; who died the -20th day of March, 1637.” Few districts in the world can, perhaps, -produce a record similar to the preceding. - -From thence we surveyed the remains of the college, which in the reign of -King Edward I. was intended for the instruction of youth. It is now in -complete ruins: the workmanship curious, with several sculptured arms. -In this town is an ancient house, built in the form of a quadrangle, by -the Wynnes, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, now inhabited by poor -families. The house is adorned after the fantastical fashion of the -times in which it was erected; the roof is singularly carved, and the -front decorated with the arms of England, with several curious crests, -birds, and beasts: it bears the date of the year 1585. The arms of -Elizabeth are carved over the door, fronting the street. - -The river Conway has been celebrated from the earliest period of British -history for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts that Julius Cæsar dedicated -to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a breast-plate, set with -British pearls; and other authorities go so far as to assign the desire -to get possession of these jewels, as one of the reasons of his invading -the British isles. The shell in which they are found is called the pearl -muscle, and is the same which by Linnæus is termed Mya Margaritifera. - -The fish, which generate these concretions, are considered in a sickly -state; and it is said that on their being squeezed, they can and will -eject them, which they occasionally do spontaneously on the sands. I am -given to understand that a very considerable trade is carried on by an -individual, very snugly, at this very day, in pearls collected from the -Conway and adjacent coast. Some years ago Sir Robert Vaughan appeared at -court with a button and loop in his hat, set with pearls from the Conway; -and Mr. Edward Llwyd says, that the pearls found here are as large and as -well coloured as any in Great Britain. - -“Immediately at the foot of the castle,” says a recent traveller, {243} -“a suspension bridge is thrown over the previously dangerous ferry, in -the erection of which great taste has been exhibited. Castellated towers -support the chains, and where the road enters the town a toll-house, in -the shape of a dilapidated tower, has been erected, which perfectly -harmonizes with the view around it, and taken altogether, the bridge -seems to be the draw-bridge of the castle, and does not detract from the -antique grandeur of the scene. Mr. Telford is the architect of this, as -well as of the Menai Bridge; and though it possesses nothing of the -immense proportions, it is equally elegant and well adapted to its -situation.” - -Edward the First made this a free borough. It is now governed by one -alderman, a recorder, coroner, water-bailiff, and two serjeants-at-mace, -chosen annually, and is a contributory borough with Caernarvon, Pwllheli, -Nevin, and Criccaeth, in returning a member to parliament. Its market is -on Friday. - -The usual route, and the one which we intended to pursue, laying by St. -Asaph and Chester, we determined first to explore some of the beauties of -the vale of Conway; and with this object in view, took the road leading -to Llanwrst: it possesses the charming varieties of wood, water, and a -richly cultivated country, backed by mountain scenery. We soon reached -Caer Rhun, the site of the ancient Conovium of the Romans, where the -tenth legion were stationed. The late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, vicar -of the parish, and a gentleman well known for his antiquarian researches, -traced out here the remains of a Roman pottery: many utensils of various -sorts had previously been found, mostly imperfect, some well designed and -very curious. Amongst other things found here, was a small brazen -circular shield, of curious workmanship, embossed, a little more than a -foot in diameter, and with a projecting pike of wrought iron, of about -four inches and a half, placed in the centre; it had circles of brass -studs, and appeared to have been lined with leather and stuffed with -hair. Numerous Roman coins were likewise found, and near this is a hill, -called Myndd Caer Leon, or the _Hill of the Legion_. Mr. Williams says, -“This legion was denominated Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at -Chester (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy), was distinguished -by the name of Vicessima Victrix: and the Second Legion, stationed at -Caer Leon, in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the -title of Augusta Britannica. There was, no doubt, a Roman road from -hence to Segontium, on the west, and to Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys on -the east, and another probably through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and -Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelly, Castell y Beri, -near Tal y Llynn, to Penal, near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman -encampment, and where very considerable remains were discovered.” - -The next object worthy of attention is Rhaiadr Mawr, or the Great -Waterfall, about seven miles from Conway; Mr. Bingley’s account of which -is so correct and spirited, that I shall give it verbatim:— - - “I ascended along a winding path, which, after about a quarter of an - hour’s walk, conducted me to the bed of the river, near the station - from whence it was to be seen to the greatest advantage. The water, - from the late dry weather, was very inconsiderable; still, however, - the scene was highly picturesque. From the upper part two streams - descended at some distance from each other. The range of rock, down - which the water was thrown, was very wide and extremely rude, being - formed in horizontal ledges, into deep clefts and enormous chasms. - On the various lodgments of the rocks were numerous pendant shrubs. - The dark shades of the clefts, and the irregular brilliancy of the - prominent features of the scene, from the reflected rays of the sun, - contrasted again with the foaming of the water, were truly grand. - The colours of the rock, which were every where also very dark, were - rich and highly varied. The streams united a little above the middle - of the fall: they rushed from thence in foam over the rocks, and, - from the deep shelvings, in many places the water was entirely hidden - from me below. In addition to this, nearly every different stratum - of rock threw it into a fresh direction. In the whole scene there - was the utmost irregularity. On the right of the cataract the - enclosing rocks were nearly perpendicular, very lofty, and crowned - with pendant foliage. Those on the left were very high and towering, - adorned on the lodgments with grass and ferns. I should have made a - drawing of this cataract, had it been possible to have expressed it - with any justice on an octavo plate; this, however, was altogether - impossible. The above description is expressed in terms infinitely - too feeble to give any correct idea of the scene. This waterfall - appeared to me by much the most grand and picturesque of any that I - have seen in North Wales. - - “In descending to the road, I had an extensive view along the whole - vale of Conway. It appeared from this eminence to be much varied, - and on the whole very beautiful.” - -Besides this, many other waterfalls and cascades, along this charming -river, will amply repay this digression, and entice the tourist forward -to its junction with the Lledr and Machno. Near Llanwrst, Gwydir-house -and woods, and at that place the church, and the famous bridge built by -Inigo Jones, will engage his attention. Beyond the vale is beautiful and -romantic, far exceeding my powers of description; all that wood, water, -and the most rugged rocks and picturesque mountain scenery can do to -delight the lovers of nature, heightened by the relief of a highly -cultivated country, interspersed with gentlemen’s seats, frequently -breaking on the view, are here amply afforded them. Proceeding up the -vale, and through Gwydir woods, you reach Bettws y Coed; thence to the -new iron Waterloo Bridge over the Conway, on the great Irish road, visit -the falls of the Conway and Machno, return to Bettws, proceed up the -Lligwy to view the Rhaidar y Wennol, or Cataract of the Swallow, which, -when it possesses its customary body of water, is truly tremendous. In -going from hence to the excellent inn at Capel Curig, by making a circuit -of about four or five miles to the southward, you may visit Dolwyddelan -Castle, the residence of Meredith ap Jevan, before mentioned in the -account of Llyn. From Capel Curig, proceeding towards Bangor, till the -road nearly reaches the river Ogwen, you may with labour and difficulty -trace the old Roman road, from Segontium to Conovium, or, without any -risk of satiety, retread your steps by Llanwrst to Conway. - -The trade of Conway consists in the exportation of slate and copper from -the Llandidno mines, from whence the finest specimens of Malachite copper -is brought. The town and castle of Conway are seen to great advantage in -crossing the river, which is here about half a mile over, and at high -water washes the walls of that massy ruin: in the middle of the channel -is a small rocky island. We observed from this situation the two castles -called Bodscallan and Dyganwy; the small remains of the latter stand on a -high rock above the river. The former is a beautiful seat of the -Mostyns. - -Crossing the ferry we determined on exploring the Criddin, a Commot, or -Hundred of Caernarvonshire, at the extremity of which is that noted -landmark, the Great Orme’s Head. This commot is supposed to contain some -of the best arable and meadow land in this part of the principality; the -shores and cliffs likewise afford excellent limestone, and pebbles for -paving; both of which are shipped in large quantities for Liverpool and -other markets. Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, _The Fort of the Conway_, was -once the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, who here -held his court. The following anecdote of which, as connected with -Taliesin, the British Bard, I shall give the heads of from Mr. Bingley: - - “Gwyddno Garanhir, brother of Maelgwyn, who likewise resided in the - neighbourhood, had near his residence a weir, called Gored Wyddno, - _Gwyddno’s Weir_, which is even yet known by the same name, and - belongs to Sir Thomas Mostyn, as owner of the house of Bodscallon. - Elphin, the son of Gwyddno, was an extravagant youth; and at one time - he had so greatly exhausted his finances, that he was compelled, as a - temporary relief, to ask his father the benefit of the weir for a - single night. The request was complied with, but not a single fish - was caught. {248} A leathern basket was however taken up, which, on - examination, was found to contain a child. This was an unfortunate - circumstance to one so much in want of a successful tide. Elphin - had, however, the humanity to direct that the child should be taken - care of, and that no expense should be spared in his education. The - youth, who was named Taliesin, was introduced by Elphin at his - father’s court; and his first step towards fame was in reciting there - a poem containing the history of his life, called Hanes Taliesin. - Maelgwyn Gwynedd was greatly surprised at his talent, and himself - became afterwards his patron. Some time after this a dispute took - place at Diganwy, betwixt Elphin and his father, of so serious a - nature, as to cause the former to be thrown into prison. His - attentions to Taliesin now proved of the utmost importance to him. - The bard addressed to the prince a poem on his patron, which excited - his commiseration, and caused him to issue an immediate order for - Elphin’s release. Taliesin continued to receive, throughout the - whole of his life, the attentions, the admirations, and the applause - which his talents justly merited; and after his death he was honoured - with the appellation of _The Prince of the British Bards_.” - -Gloddaith woods particularly, and most part of this small district, -afford considerable amusement to the botanist; as will the libraries of -Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. at Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, to the antiquarian -and the historian. The former of these seats was built in the reign of -Queen Elizabeth; since which period both mansion and furniture have -experienced but trifling alterations. - -The tremendous precipice on the west side of the Ormshead is worthy of a -visit. The sea view is very extensive, and generally enlivened by the -passing of Liverpool shipping; you likewise command a view of the Isle of -Man, and occasionally views of the Irish, Lancashire, and the distant -haze of the Scottish coast. The sea birds frequent these cliffs and -shores in great abundance, more particularly gulls, razor-bills, -guillemots, corvorants, herons, and the peregrine falcon; the latter of -which, in the days of falconry, was held in such high estimation, that -the celebrated Lord Burleigh sent a letter of thanks for a present of a -cast of hawks from this place to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s. -Unprotected by any shelter, on the summit of the high promontory, stands -the small church of Llandudno, but little famous for any thing but its -singular situation, and its service as a beacon. Proceeding along the -mail-road, with the sea on our left, and low rocks on our right, nothing -particular attracted our attention, till in descending a hill about two -miles from the neat bathing-town of - - - -ABERGELE, - - -we observed, on our right, two immense caverns, about half way up the -mountain; they are called Cavern-arogo, and run four or five hundred -yards into the ground; but their real extent has never been ascertained -with accuracy. From these mountains vast quantities of lime are shipped -for Liverpool and many parts of England. - -Abergele, situate on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, is a small neat town of -one street, resorted to in the summer season for bathing. The sands -afford excellent walking; in the evening we lingered on the beach for a -considerable time, enjoying the calm but cheerful beauty of nature, and -inhaling the pure sea-breeze—for - - . . . “The wind was hush’d; - And to the beach each slowly-lifted wave, - Creeping with silver-curl, just kiss’d the shore, - And slept in silence.” - - MASON’S GARDEN. - -With pleasure mixed with reverential awe, we trod Rhuddlan Marsh, so -celebrated in the annals of history. Here the ill-fated Richard II. was -betrayed into the hands of Bolingbroke, and taken prisoner to Flint: here -Offa, King of Mercia, met his untimely death: here the Welsh, under the -command of Caradoc, in the year 795, were defeated in a conflict with the -Saxons, and their leader slain in the action. This memorable and tragic -event is handed down to posterity by an ancient celebrated and affecting -ballad, called Morva Rhuddlan, or the Marsh of Rhuddlan, composed by the -bards on the death of Prince Caradoc. - -The ground we trod, connected with so many events, revived in our minds -the memory of past ages; a series of historical events came to our -recollection; events that are now so distant, as almost to be obliterated -from the page of history. Passing over a bridge of two arches, thrown -over the river Clwyd, we entered - - - -RHUDDLAN, - - -once the largest and most respectable town in North Wales. Walking over -the ruins of the castle, in which Edward I. kept three Christmases, I -recurred, by a natural association of ideas, to the times when the -parliament-house, the halls, and courts, echoed with the voices of those, -who have been long since swept from the earth by the unerring hand of -death. One solitary Gothic window is now only remaining to distinguish -the old parliament-house, where King Edward the First instituted that -famous code of laws, under the title of the statute of Rhuddlan, from a -neighbouring barn: and what once contained the parliament of England, now -contains nothing but bark for the supply of a tan-yard. - -The old castle is built of red stone; it consists of a square area, -strongly fortified with a wall. This court we entered through the grand -gateway, between two round towers: the opposite side corresponds. The -whole is encircled by a deep entrenchment faced with stone on the river -side, with two square towers, one of which still remains. - -“The Bishop of St. Asaph,” says Mr. Evans, “distributes among the farmers -of the parish of Rhyddlan, five guineas for the best crop of turnips; and -three guineas for the best crop of wheat upon a fallow, manured only with -lime compost. All the competitors partake of a feast on the day of -decision; and the victors, beside their premiums, have the honourable -distinction of being crowned with the garland of Ceres, by some of the -ladies present.” This stimulus has had great effect in exciting a spirit -of improvement. - -The road from hence to - - - -ST. ASAPH, - - -affords a most rich and beautiful walk, extending along the celebrated -vale of Clwyd. This rich tract of land, called the Eden of North Wales, -extends in length about twenty-five miles, and in breadth about eight. -The neighbourhood of Ruthin affords the best view of this vale. Though -it is by no means so interesting and romantic as the vale of Glamorgan, -yet its high cultivation, and the picturesque, but moderate height of the -hills, rising on each side of the river Clwyd, renders the scenery -pleasing: its chief produce is corn. Both these vales claim the -attention of the traveller; and both have to boast of particular -beauties. One mile from St. Asaph we passed, on our right, the elegant -seat of Sir Edward Lloyd. We still followed the banks of the Clwyd; and -at the farthest extremity a light elegant bridge of seven arches, with -the dark tower of St. Asaph’s cathedral rising on an eminence just over -it, gave a picturesque effect to the whole scenery. - -The town itself is built on a hill, in one straight line, with a few neat -houses. The cathedral naturally demands attention: the inside is -remarkably neat and elegant, entirely Gothic, with the ceiling of -chesnut, and open ribs like the skeleton of a ship. The monument of -David ap Owen, bishop of this diocese, was particularly pointed out to -us. The bishop’s palace has been entirely rebuilt by the present -diocesan. The choir consists of a bishop, dean, six canons, seven -prebends, and four vicars. There are no monuments in the churchyard, and -few of any importance within its venerable walls. - -St. Asaph receives its derivation from its patron, who established a -bishop’s see here, in the year 590: but in British it is named Llan-Elwy, -on account of the conflux of the Elwy with the Clwyd. It is singular, -that the cathedral is not used as a parish church, as all the other Welsh -cathedrals are; and that the bishop’s jurisdiction extends over no entire -county, but includes part of Flintshire, Denbighshire, Montgomeryshire, -Merionethshire, and Shropshire. - -From St. Asaph to Holywell the distance is about ten miles. The first -part of the road continuing through the vale of Clwyd, affords prospects -of agricultural riches rarely excelled; the latter part is rocky and -rugged, but pleasant. On the one side you enjoy the distant view of -Denbigh, with its ancient castle fast mouldering to decay, and on the -other that of Rhyddlan, backed by the distant sea view. The whole of -this tract of country abounds in lead-mines and calamine. Between this -road and the sea stands Downing, late the residence of the celebrated Mr. -Pennant, to whom the world was so much indebted for his numerous and -laborious literary publications. - -On the summit of a lofty hill called Carreg, in the parish of Whitford, -about two miles to the left of the road, is an ancient circular building, -which Mr. Pennant believed to have been a Roman pharos, constructed to -assist in the navigating the difficult channel of Seteia Portus to and -from Deva. This appears the more probable, as it still forms a prominent -landmark, highly useful to the small Welsh sloops and coasting vessels, -which in fine weather drop along with the tides from the lime-rocks, -between Llandrillo and Llanddulas, to Parkgate, Liverpool, &c.; in one of -which I witnessed the rising sun just as we opened the rich and beautiful -vale of Clwyd;—a scene so pre-eminently fine and impressive, that the -lapse of five-and-twenty years has not effaced it from, or weakened it -in, my recollection. - - - -HOLYWELL - - -is a place of considerable trade and bustle, with easy access to the sea. -It is pleasantly situated on the side of a hill, possessing many good -houses; but is chiefly famous for its well, which although only little -better than a mile from the sea, furnishes a sufficiency of water to work -eleven mills and factories, viz. one corn mill, four cotton mills, and -six copper and brass mills and forges. - -The quantity of water thrown up is, on an accurate calculation, proved to -exceed eighty-four hogsheads in a minute. It is covered by a small -Gothic building, the canopy of which is of most delicate workmanship. -For its origin, miracles, &c. I must refer the reader to the Life of St. -Winifred, or some of the numerous authorities that have particularized -them: suffice it to say, that the devotees of this saint (whose head was -cut off, and so effectually replaced on her shoulders, that she survived -it fifteen years) were very numerous; and in the last age the well was so -noted, that, according to Mr. Pennant, “the prince, who lost three -kingdoms for a mass, payed his respects, on the 29th of August, 1686, to -our saint, and received as a reward a present of the very shift in which -his great grandmother, Mary Queen of Scots, lost her head.” - -“The church being situated below the town, the sound of the bell can be -heard but a short distance; to summon the inhabitants to their devotions, -therefore, a person parades the town with a large bell, suspended from -his neck.” {256a} - -The supply of water from this well is scarcely ever perceived to vary; -and it has never been known to be frozen, a circumstance of far greater -importance than its miraculous qualities. - -The stage from Holywell to Flint is only six miles, and, like Flint -itself, affords little subject for observation or remark. - - - -FLINT - - -is a small market town, created a free borough in the reign of Philip and -Mary, and confirmed in the 12th of William III. It, in conjunction with -Caerwys, Rhyddlan, Caergwrle, and Overton, sends a member to parliament, -elected by such inhabitants as pay parochial taxes. The castle, begun by -Henry II., and finished by Edward I., stands upon a rock, in a marsh upon -the south bank of the Dee; the channel of which once ran in considerable -depth under its walls, which, even at the present day, are washed at high -tides. By whom, and when it was founded, is uncertain. It is chiefly -famous for being the place where Edward II. received his obnoxious -favourite, Piers Gaveston, on his return from banishment; and where -Percy, Earl of Northumberland, surrendered Richard the Second into the -hands of the Duke of Lancaster. “When Richard arrived at Flint,” says -the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, {256b} -“he said to the Duke of Lancaster, afterwards Henry the Fourth, ‘Cousin -of Lancaster, you are welcome.’ ‘My Lord the King,’ returned the Duke, -bowing three times to the ground, ‘I am arrived sooner than you appointed -me; because the common report of your people reached me, that you have, -for one and twenty years, governed them rigorously, and with which they -are by no means satisfied. It is my desire, if God be willing, to assist -you to govern them better for the future.’ ‘Fair cousin,’ returned the -wounded monarch, assuming an air of cheerfulness, ‘Fair cousin, since it -pleases you, it pleases me also.’ The King and the Duke soon after made -their entry into London, which Shakspeare has described so beautifully. -Richard resigned his crown; and, as a recompence, was soon after murdered -in Pontefract castle.” In the reign of Charles the First, the castle was -repaired by Sir Roger Mostyn, and sustained a lengthened siege, till all -the provisions were exhausted, when it made an honourable surrender in -December 1646: it, with Hawarden and other castles, was dismantled by -order of Parliament. In proceeding to Chester, you regain the high road -at Northop: three miles and a half beyond which, to the left, about a -quarter of a mile from the road, on the edge of a glen, and surrounded by -a wood, are to be traced the remains of Euloe Castle, a small fortress: -the proprietor of which, named Howell, was entitled by ancient custom to -give the badge of a silver harp to the best harper in North Wales. But -it is chiefly remarkable for the defeat which Henry the Second received -in the wood in its vicinity, from David and Conan, the two sons of Owen -Gwynedd. By stratagem, they drew the English army into a narrow pass -betwixt the hills; when attacking its front, flanks, and rear, they -routed it with the most dreadful slaughter. Regaining the road, you soon -reach Hawarden, a small neat town, chiefly remarkable for the ruins of -its ancient castle, so frequently mentioned in history: its remains are -to be traced in the grounds of Lady Glynne, at the east end of the town; -little now remains of them, but, from the eminence on which they stand, -you command a fine view of the Dee and the county of Chester. - - - -CHESTER, - - -Carlisle, and Conway, are the only three British towns or cities that -have preserved their ancient walls anyways entire. Those of Chester are -nearly two miles in circumference, and sufficiently broad to afford room -for two persons to walk abreast; for this purpose they are now kept in -repair, affording an agreeable lounge, fresh air, and, from the different -sides, varied and extensive views. - -The rows are another peculiarity belonging to Chester: the streets, which -are much broader than those of old towns or cities generally, are -considerably excavated: on this lower level are the warehouses, kitchens, -&c. and on the first floor, with galleries, or rows as they are termed, -in the front, are the shops. These galleries afford a covered walk for -foot passengers: they are inconvenient, particularly for ladies, as at -every crossing you have to descend and ascend the different steps: they -give an air of great singularity to the city. - -Chester was formerly termed Caerleon Gawr, or Vawr, and was, during the -time of the Romans, the station of the twentieth legion. Numerous Roman -antiquities have been found here, such as altars, &c. and a _hypocaust_, -or furnace for heating a sudatorium, was a short time back to be seen at -the Feathers Inn. - -The castle is situate at the north-west extremity of the city. It was -founded by Hugh Lupus, in the reign of William the Conqueror, and has -within these few years undergone considerable alterations. In it was -confined the beautiful, but unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, after her -defeat at Langside. - -The cathedral is a heavy irregular pile of building, affording little -either within or without worthy of observation. It is built of bad -stone, on which the workmanship bestowed was quite good enough: it stands -on the site of the ancient Abbey of St. Werburgh. The altar-piece is a -fine specimen of tapestry, representing the history of Elymas the -sorcerer, taken from one of the Cartoons of Raphael. - -The bishop’s palace, in the Abbey Court, is a handsome modern stone -building. The exchange, or town hall, is an elegant and useful fabric, -standing in the middle of the city. It is supported on columns, and -contains, as well as the common hall, assembly rooms, with every -convenience for the corporation meetings and entertainments. The shire -hall is a handsome stone building, with one of the most complete and -elegant court rooms in the kingdom. The new gaol is likewise a -well-constructed edifice, having five yards, and all the necessary -conveniences for a separation of prisoners. - -Anxious to view the superb seat of the Earl of Grosvenor, Eaton Hall, we -did not afford that time to examine this ancient city which it merited; -it will not, therefore, be right for the tourist to be satisfied with -this as a guide to its antiquities, but rather to purchase the local one, -which will afford every information. - - - -EATON HALL, - - -the seat of Earl Grosvenor, recently erected by the present noble earl, -is a splendid Gothic mansion, standing on the site of the ancient fabric, -in an extensive park, surrounded with fine and venerable timber. The -basement of the ancient pile has been preserved, but the superstructure -has been enlarged to double the original dimensions. The style of -architecture is Gothic: but it is proper to observe, that the cathedral -Gothic, of the age of Edward the Third, as exhibited in York-Minster, the -church of Newark-upon-Trent, and other celebrated structures in England, -is chiefly imitated, especially on the outside; though Mr. Porden, the -architect, has not scrupled to avail himself of the low Tudor arch, and -the forms of any other age that suited his purpose, which was to adapt -the rich variety of our ancient ecclesiastical architecture to modern -domestic convenience. The same style prevails through the whole of the -interior, but more or less embellished, to suit the uses of the -apartments respectively. Round the turrets, and in various parts of the -balustrades, are Gothic shields, charged in relievo with the armorial -bearings of the Grosvenor family, and of other ancient families, that by -intermarriages the Grosvenors are entitled to quarter with their own. -The windows, which are rich in tracery, are of iron, cast from models in -wood by the iron-founders of Chester, and are, perhaps, the first that -have been made of that material, moulded on both sides and grooved to -receive the glass. The walls, balustrades, battlements, and pinnacles, -are of stone, brought by land-carriage about sixteen miles, from quarries -near Fordsham. It is of a light and beautiful colour, which harmonizes -with the hues of nature in the landscape. - -The park is flat, but the distant country is elevated and various. To -the west the mountains of Wales, with Moel-Famma, rise directly in front; -and to the south and east the hills of Shropshire and Cheshire, with that -remarkable knowl on which Beeston Castle is situated. The city of -Chester lies on the north. From various parts of the park and grounds -this noble mansion is seen to much better advantage than by the regular -approaches from Chester, &c. - -“The entrance to the house is in the middle of the west front, under a -vaulted portico, which admits a carriage to the steps that lead to the -hall, a spacious and lofty room, occupying the height of two stories, -with a vaulted ceiling, embellished with the Grosvenor arms, &c. in the -knots that cover the junction of the ribs. The pavement is of variegated -marbles in Gothic compartments. On each of the sides is an ornamented -marble chimney-piece, and four niches with pedestals and canopies. The -niches, it is probable, will hereafter be filled with statues, and the -walls covered with historical paintings; for which no family can furnish -more ample materials, as the heads of it were engaged in most of the -military transactions of the English in the chivalrous ages. At the end -of the hall, a screen of five arches supports a gallery, that connects -the bed-chambers on the north side of the house with those on the south, -which are separated by the elevation of the hall. Under this gallery, -two open arches to the right and left conduct to the grand staircase, the -state bed-room, and the second staircase; and opposite to the door of the -hall is the entrance to the saloon. The grand staircase is highly -ornamented with niches and canopies, and with tracery under the landings, -and, in the principal ceiling, which is crowned with a double sky-light -of various-coloured glass. The steps of the second staircase, with its -tracery and balustrade, are all of cast-iron. The state bed-room is -lighted by two painted windows, with tracery and armorial bearings, and -contains a magnificent bed. On entering the saloon, the eye is struck -with the splendour of three lofty painted windows, which contain, in six -divisions, the portraits of the Conqueror’s nephew, Gilbert le Grosvenor, -the founder of the Grosvenor family, and his lady; of William the -Conqueror, with whom Gilbert came into England; the Bishop of Bayeux, -uncle to the Conqueror; the heiress of the house of Eaton; and Sir Robert -le Grosvenor; who distinguished himself in the wars of Edward the Third, -and more particularly by his legal contest with Sir Richard le Scroope, -for the family arms—_azure_, _one bend_, _or_; in which Sir Richard -gained his point. Sir Robert being obliged to add to them _un bordure -argent_—objecting to which, he was allowed to bear the arms of his -relation, Hugh Lupus, first Earl of Chester, _azure_, _a garbe_, _or_, -which is the family coat to this day. These windows are from cartoons by -Mr. Tresham and others. The saloon is a square of thirty feet, formed -into an octagon by arches across the angles, which give the vaultings a -beautiful form. The chimney-piece is of statuary marble, and opposite to -it is an organ, both richly decorated. On the left of the saloon is an -ante-room, that leads to the dining-room, and on the right another that -leads to the drawing-room, both decorated, but in a subordinate degree to -the state rooms, with which they communicate. The windows of these rooms -are glazed with a light mosaic tracery, and exhibit the portraits of the -six earls of Chester, who, after Hugh Lupus, governed Cheshire as a -county palatine, till Henry the Third bestowed the title on his son -Edward; since which time the eldest sons of the kings of England have -always been Earls of Chester. - -“The dining-room, situated at the northern extremity of the east front, -is about fifty feet long, and thirty feet wide, exclusive of a bow -containing five arched windows; the opening of which is thirty feet. In -the middle window is the portrait of Hugh Lupus. This portrait, with the -six Earls of Chester in the ante-room windows, are the work of Messrs. -Davenport, of Staffordshire, from cartoons by Mr. Singleton. The ceiling -is of bold and rich tracery, with coats of arms in proper colours, and a -large ornamented pendant for a chandelier. At the end, opposite to the -entrance, is an arched recess, containing the sideboard, and on each side -of it is a large niche, with its pedestal and canopy. The opposite end -of the room has a similar recess, under which is the door from the -ante-room, and similar niches on each side of it. Other niches and -canopies, of smaller size, ornament the jambs of the arched recess and -the bow. - -“The drawing-room, which is at the southern extremity of the east front, -is of the same form and dimensions as the dining-room; with the addition -of a large window that looks to the south, and commands a view of the -groves and fertile meadows of Eaton, with the village and spire of -Oldford above them. All the windows of this room are adorned with heads -and figures of the ancestors of the family; among which are the portraits -of the present Earl and Countess, in a beautiful brown _chiaro-oscuro_, -executed by Messrs. Bachelor and Silk, of Newman-street, and do credit to -the talents of those ingenious artists. The niches, canopies, and other -ornaments, are the same in situation as those of the dining-room, but of -a lighter and richer design. The ceiling is a piece of embroidery of the -nicest materials and workmanship; where all the coats borne by the -Grosvenor family are blazoned in their proper colours, and also the arms -of Egerton, Earl of Wilton, the father of the present Countess Grosvenor. -The arms of Egerton appear in various parts of the house, and will mark -the date of this fabric to future antiquaries, if all other memorials -should be forgotten or destroyed. The colour of the saloon is blue, the -ante dining-room of light blue, the dining-room of a bright scarlet, the -ante drawing-room is hung with light blue satin, the drawing-room with -crimson velvet: the curtains and draperies are of crimson and gold satin, -with gold tassels and fringes, disposed in a striking and picturesque -manner by Messrs. Gillow, under the direction of Joseph Kay, Esq. -architect to the post-office. All the other furniture of these -apartments is the work of the same artificers, and appropriate to the -style of the house. The vistas from the dining-room, through the two -ante-rooms, and the saloon to the south window of the drawing-room, and -in the opposite direction from the drawing-room to the dining-room, -terminating with the splendidly-furnished sideboard of plate, perhaps -cannot be exceeded in novelty and variety by any thing of the kind in -England. - -“The library is in the centre of the south front. The ceiling and the -large bow-window, with their ornaments, are in the same style as the -rooms already described, but less rich. The book-cases are of English -oak, with arches of tracery, buttresses, pinnacles, and battlements. The -sitting-room of the Countess is the only room on this floor with -square-headed windows and a flat ceiling, and is an apartment of singular -beauty. - -“The middle window of the saloon opens to a vaulted cloister, occupying -the space between the dining and drawing-rooms, in the east front, which -affords a sheltered walk in all weathers. A flight of steps leads from -the cloister to a spacious terrace, three hundred and fifty or sixty feet -long, laid out in gravel walks and beds of flowers; from whence other -steps at each end and in the middle descend to the garden and pleasure -grounds, which are disposed with much taste. The view from the terrace -is rich and various. - -“Our limits will not admit of a particular description of the offices and -stables, though both are deserving of attention. The latter surround a -court of 160 feet by 100, and are decorated with battlements and turrets, -and a clock tower, supported by flying buttresses, in a style of Gothic -architecture plainer than that of the house. - -“Eaton Hall and the buildings here described, with their furniture, were -designed by and executed under the direction of Mr. Porden, of -Berners-street.” {266} - -Having been highly gratified with the inspection of this noble edifice -and grounds, we returned to Chester by the side of the Dee, a pleasant -walk of about three miles; amply prepared to do justice to the hospitable -board of a kind friend. Finding but little conversation to be obtained -from us, but on the subject of Eaton Hall, he kindly furnished us with -the preceding account, which he assured us had been corrected, and was -the best extant. - -Hugh Lupus, before spoken of, was appointed by William the Conqueror, -first Earl of Chester; which was erected into a county palatine, enjoying -a sovereign jurisdiction, having parliaments and distinct courts of law. -There is still kept in the British Museum the identical sword with which -Lupus was invested with his dignity; by virtue of which the Earls of -Chester were created sword-bearers of England, and as such were -accustomed to officiate at the coronation of the kings of England. On -the blade of this sword is the following inscription—_Hugo comes -Cestriæ_. - -Chester is famed for the elegant manners of its inhabitants; and no city -in the kingdom can, I believe, boast of more polished or agreeable -society. Our regret at leaving it was so great, that I should recommend -the tourist who carries with him letters of introduction to Chester, to -make arrangement for three or four days or a week’s stay at this engaging -place. - -From Chester to Mold there is but little worthy of remark. The distance -is about twelve miles: part of the road lies over an extensive flat, -called Saltney, a rich and well-cultivated tract of country. Mold is a -small neat town, situate in a pleasant valley, surrounded by gentle -acclivities: here the assizes for the county of Flint are held. It -formerly possessed a strong castle on the north side, built on a mount -called the Baily-Hill, of which but few vestiges are now remaining: it is -famed in history for the sieges it sustained. The church is a handsome -structure, worthy of attention, built in the reign of Henry the Seventh, -and contains some fine monuments. - -In the vicinity of Mold are large cotton spinning-mills, belonging to a -company at Manchester. The two Leeswoods, one the residence of the Rev. -Hope Wynne Eyton, the other of Mr. Garnor, formerly of Sir George Wynne, -are more remarkable for the gardens, grounds, and more particularly the -beautiful iron gates at the entrance of the lawn of the latter, than for -size and architecture. - -Tower, the residence of the dowager Mrs. Wardle, is a specimen of the -ancient _border-houses_ on the confines of Wales and Scotland. It is a -square tower, consisting of three stories: in the lower story there still -remains a staple in the ceiling—a memorial of the rudeness of the times. -During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, this place was -inhabited by Reinallt ap Gryffydd Bleyddyn; one of the six gallant -captains who defended Harlech Castle on the part of Henry the Sixth. He -and his people were in continual feud with the citizens of Chester. In -1465, a considerable number of the latter came to Mold fair. A fray -ensued between the two parties, and dreadful slaughter was made on both -sides. Reinallt, however, got the victory, taking prisoner Robert Bryne -or Browne, Mayor of Chester, who, in his private capacity as a draper, -had attended the fair; whom he led to this tower, and hung on the staple -in his great hall. About a mile north-west of the town is Maes Garmon, -famous for the celebrated battle of the Victoria Alleluiatica; in which -the Britons, under the two bishops, Germanus and Lupus, in Easter week, -448, defeated and destroyed the Picts and Saxons. Germanus, having -previously directed his soldiers to repeat loudly and generally the word -he should give, he at the proper time pronounced _Alleluja_! The whole -army caught the sacred sound; which they repeated with such energy, that -the mountains echoed the religious exultation; and both combined to -strike such terror into the invading foe, that he fled in the utmost -consternation: numbers fell by the sword, and as many perished in the -adjacent river. This event is commemorated by the Hallelujah Monument, -erected by the late Nehemiah Griffith, Esq. of Rhual. Mold has two inns, -the Black Lion and Griffin: its market is on a Saturday. - -From Mold to Denbigh the distance is about sixteen miles and a half. On -the left of the road is Kilken, visited on account of the beautiful -carved roof of its church, brought from Basingwerk Abbey, on the -dissolution of that house. Above it, on the summit of Moel Famma, is the -monument, erected by the inhabitants of the counties of Flint and -Denbigh, in commemoration of his late Majesty, King George the Third, -having completed the fiftieth year of his reign. The column was designed -by Mr. Harrison, of Lancaster, the architect of Chester Castle, &c. -Under the column were deposited in a vase numerous coins, illustrative of -this memorable reign. Lord Kenyon laid the first stone on the 25th of -October, 1810. In the neighbourhood of Kilken are numerous rich lead -mines and other works; amongst which, Pen y fron, belonging to Mr. -Ingleby, and Llyn y Pandu, held under Lord Grosvenor, by the late John -Wilkinson, Esq., are amongst the richest for their veins, these being -from four to six feet thick; but the great bodies of water from which -they have to free these mines, by means of powerful steam engines, are -great drawbacks upon their profits. - -Moel Arthur, another portion of the Clwydian Hills, has on the top of it -the remains of a fortified British camp, having two very deep fossæ, with -corresponding valla, on the approachable sides; and on the precipitous -one is a smooth terrace, apparently levelled by art, for exercising the -troops. - -Penbedw Hall, the seat of Mr. Williams, is a handsome object. On the -left of the road, at a small distance from the house, is a carnedd or -tumulus, and the remains of a Druidical circle. - -Bodfari is by some conjectured to be the Varis of Antoninus; but on this -point antiquaries and historians are not agreed, others believing Caerwys -to have been that station. - -Bachegraig is a most singularly-constructed house, built by Sir Richard -Clough, who served his apprenticeship to Sir Thomas Gresham; and having -acquired a great fortune by trade, contributed liberally, like his -master, towards the building of the Royal Exchange. The house consists -of a kind of centre and three sides, which form a quadrangle, enclosing a -square area or court. The principal part comprises a hall, with an -adjoining parlour of large dimensions; and the other parts of the -building are carried up to the unusual height of six stories, terminating -with a cupola. We from hence turned back to - - - -CAERWYS, - - -which lies to the right of the road. It was formerly a place of much -consequence, at which the assizes for the county of Flint were held, as -were likewise a species of British Olympics, it being the seat of the -“Eisteddfod,” or Sessions of the Bards and Minstrels; the grand theatre -where, in honourable contention, they tried their skill, poured forth -their extemporaneous effusions, awaked their harps to melody, - - “And gave to rapture all the trembling strings.” - -Under the British princes, the bards and minstrels were associated in -corporate, or rather collegiate bodies; into which none were admitted but -such as had given proof of their skill in the respective sciences before -proper judges, duly appointed by royal commission. And although the -institution is now dissolved, and the character officially no more, yet -those who, “born with music in their souls, _that_ wish to feast on -raptures ever new,” will consentaneously say, - - “But hail ye mighty masters of the lay, - Nature’s true sons, the friends of man and truth! - Whose song, sublimely sweet, serenely gay, - Amused my childhood, and inform’d my youth. - O let your spirit still my bosom soothe, - Inspire my dreams, and my wild wanderings guide! - Your voice each rugged path of life can smooth; - For well I know, wherever ye reside, - There harmony, and peace, and innocence abide.” - - BEATTIE’S MINSTREL. - -The distance from Caerwys to Denbigh is about ten miles. You pass -Lleweni Hall, formerly occupied by the Hon. Thomas Fitzmaurice, uncle to -the Marquis of Lansdowne, brother to the Earl of Shelburne, and father of -the late noble possessor. Mr. Fitzmaurice used here to bleach the cloths -made on his estates in Ireland. He travelled to Chester in his coach and -six, and when there stood behind a counter selling cloth. He lived with -the affected humility of a tradesman, and the pomp of a lord: his conduct -was singular, but his motives were good. - - - -DENBIGH, - - -situated nearly in the centre of the vale of Clwyd, is a well-built town, -standing on the declivity of a hill. A large manufactory of shoes and -gloves is here carried on, and annually supplies London with a vast -quantity. The ruins of the Castle, still remaining on a rock commanding -the town, are too celebrated in history, and too cruelly shattered by the -ravages of war, to be passed unnoticed. The principal entrance forms a -fine Gothic arch, with the statue of King Edward the First, its founder, -above it, in an elegant niche, curiously carved, encircled with a square -stone frame. No part of this castle is perfect; but the huge thick -fragments, which are scattered in the most extraordinary and fantastical -manner, seem to tell its former magnificence; and a present view of -things, such as they are, with a retrospect of what they originally were, -spreads a gloom over the mind, and interrupts the pleasure of -contemplation; yet still the singular character of this ruin is -particularly interesting. Masses of wall still remain, the proud -effigies of sinking greatness; and the shattered tower seems to nod at -every murmur of the blast, and menace the observer with immediate -annihilation. Amongst these ruins we lingered till the whole was -silvered by the pale rays of the moon. To form a conjecture on the -extent of its apartments is now impossible; but it is thus described by -Leland in his _Itinerary_. - -“The castelle is a very large thinge, and hath many toures in it; but the -body of the work was never finischid. The gate-house is a mervelus -strong and great peace of worke, but the fastigia of it were never -finischid. If they had beene, it might have beene counted among the most -memorable peaces of workys in England. It hath dyverse wardes and -dyverse portcolicis. On the front of the gate is set the image of Henry -Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, in his stately long robes. There is a nother very -high towre, and large, in the castelle, caullid the Redde Towre. Sum -say, that the Earl of Lincoln’s sunne fell into the castelle welle, and -there died; wherapon he never passid to finisch the castelle. King -Edward the Fourth was besiegid in Denbigh castelle, and ther it was -pactid betwene King Henry’s men and hym that he should with life departe -the reaulme, never to returne. If they had taken King Edwarde there -debellatum fuisset.” After the restoration of Charles II. it was blown -up by gunpowder. - -The parish church stands within the walls of the original town. Below -the castle are the fragments of an old church, which, for particular -reasons, that cannot now be ascertained, was never finished: it contains -nine windows on two sides, with a large and handsome one on the east. - -In this town was born the famous Sir Hugh Myddleton. The market is held -on a Wednesday: its distance from London, through Mold, is 218 miles. - -In conjunction with Ruthin and Holt, it sends a member to Parliament. -The principal inns are the Bull and the Crown. - -The vale of Clwyd still retains the character of luxuriant fertility. -About two miles from hence, in our way to - - - -RUTHIN, - - -“Denbigh, fair empress of the vale,” with its tottering towers, formed a -most beautiful landscape; whilst the neat little hamlet of Whitchurch -peeped from among the pomp of groves. - -At the small village of St. Fynnon St. Dyfnog, this curious inscription -over a door, - - “Near this place, within a vault, - There is such liquor fix’d, - You’ll say that water, hops, and malt, - Were never better mix’d;” - -invited the “weary-way wanderer” to partake of the _good things_ within. -This inclined us to be better acquainted with the author of this -_extraordinary_ stanza; and we entreated the landlord to be our director -to the much-esteemed well of St. Dyfnog. Passing through the -church-yard, and from thence through the passage of an alms-house, we -reached a plantation of trees, with a broad gravel walk, almost concealed -from day’s garish light by the thick foliage. This brought us to the -fountain, enclosed in an angular wall, which forms a bath of considerable -size; and so - - —“far retired - Among the windings of a woody vale, - By solitude and deep surrounding shades, - But more by bashful modesty, conceal’d,” - -that the “lovely young Lavinia” might here plunge into the flood, secure -from the intrusion of Palemon. Many wonderful qualities are attributed -to this fountain; but it is more particularly celebrated for the cure of -the rheumatism; the water has no peculiar taste. We returned by a -subterraneous path under the road, which led to the pleasure grounds -adjoining the seat of Major Wylyn. - -Several seats were beautifully dispersed on each side of the vale; among -which Lord Bagot’s and Lord Kirkwall’s formed the most prominent features -in the landscape. - -Ruthin is a large neat town, only divided from the parish of Llanruth by -a strong stone bridge: the church, which is beautifully situated, is a -handsome modern edifice: and the site of the old chapel is now converted -into a bowling-green. Owen Glendwr, as an act of revenge on Lord Grey, -plundered the town in the year 1400, during a fair, and then retired -among the mountains. In the last century, the loyalists fortified the -castle, and sustained a long siege in the year 1646. - -We still continued skirting the rich vale of Clwyd; but winding up a -steep hill, overlooking the whole of it from one extremity to the other, -we were reluctantly compelled to bid a final adieu to all its vistas, -hamlets, steeples. The whole prospect, glowing with luxuriance, seemed -to assume fresh beauties at this our farewell view: the cattle, which -were grazing in the shorn meadows, and beautifully contrasted with the -ripening corn, appeared more animated; and we discovered, or thought we -discovered, an additional number of villages, peeping from the woody -skirts of the sloping hills. From this point the vale is certainly seen -to great advantage. To give a still greater effect, a thunder-storm came -rolling on, and the clouds were - - “Silent borne along, heavy and slow, - With the big stores of steaming oceans charged.” - -This storm compelled us to seek for shelter in a miserable pot-house; but -the civility of the landlady fully compensated for its want of -accommodations. The effects of the storm rendered the remainder of our -journey much more agreeable, and the heat less oppressive: a dull -uninteresting road continued till we arrived within four or five miles of - - - -WREXHAM. - - -The contrast was too striking to escape our notice; but, having climbed a -steep eminence, the eye commanded an almost boundless range of land; and -the faint colour of the hills, retiring in the distance, was beautifully -combined with the mellow green of nearer woods. The counties of -Cheshire, Shropshire, and a considerable part of Wales, were extended -like a map, for our inspection; the town of Wrexham, rising in the -bottom, animated the scene, with its noble tower overtopping the -numberless little steeples near it. Close to the road we observed -several coal and lead mines, and a melting-house for forming lead into -pigs: these works belong to Mr. Wilkinson. - -The dirty outskirts of Wrexham by no means prepossessed us in favour of -the town; but, viewing it more leisurely, we can safely affirm, that it -is not only the largest, but the best built town in Wales. - -A friendly clergyman conducted us to the church, an elegant building of -the reign of King Henry the Seventh, and called one of the seven wonders -of Wales. The tower is a hundred and forty feet high, and esteemed “a -beautiful specimen of the florid, or reformed Gothic, which prevailed -about that time.” All the figures and ornaments are well designed, and -still in high preservation. The inside is not less elegant; it has -lately been neatly repaired, with a good gallery and organ: the painted -altar-piece is well executed. On the left, facing the altar, is a very -handsome monument by Roubilliac, to the memory of Mrs. Mary Middleton; -both the design and execution reflect the highest credit on the sculptor. -The subject is the Last Day: at the sound of the trumpet a tomb of black -marble bursts open, and a beautiful female figure, clothed in white, -appears rising from it, just awoke from the sleep of death; her form -dignified; candour, innocence, and celestial joy shine in her -countenance, and give it the most feeling and animated expression. In -the back-ground an obelisk, supposed to be erected to her memory, is rent -asunder: above an angel, enveloped in a cloud, is pointing to brighter -scenes. - -In this church are two other monuments, executed by the same celebrated -master, in memory of some of the Middletons. Their designs, though -striking, cannot be compared to his Last Day. - -The altar-piece was brought from Rome by Elihu Yale, Esq. whose tomb -bears the following inscription:— - - Born in America, in Europe bred, - In Afric travell’d, and in Asia wed: - Where long he lived and thrived—in London died. - Much good, some ill he did, so hope all’s even, - And that his soul, through mercy, ’s gone to heav’n! - You that survive and read this tale, take care - For this most certain exit to prepare. - When blest in peace, the actions of the just, - Smell sweet, and blossom in the silent dust. - -Our worthy conductor, perceiving we were great amateurs of painting, and -careful that nothing of consequence should be passed unnoticed by us, -particularly wished us to examine the performance of a young artist then -at Wrexham. A copy, amongst others, of a painting of Rembrandt’s, taken -by Mr. Allen from a celebrated picture, in the possession of Lord Craven, -was most ingeniously executed. The subject is an old man instructing a -young boy; the attention of the latter most admirably preserved; the head -of the former, and the hand particularly, most highly finished. Without -any exaggeration, this painting would do credit to the most scientific -painter, and be esteemed invaluable; it is therefore to be hoped, from -the hands of so young an artist as Mr. Allen, that this performance will -be disposed of where judges of painting may view it with a critic’s eye, -and recommend its merits to those who can afford to encourage industry -and ingenuity. - -Our friend’s invitation to his hospitable parsonage, and agreeable -family, was too kindly urged possibly to be refused: and, in our way to - - - -MARCH WIEL, - - -we visited the seat of P. Yorke, Esq. The grounds and plantations are -very extensive; and the bowery walks, while they afford refreshing -shelter from a summer’s sun, allow partial views of the counties of -Cheshire and Shropshire, with the Wrekin and Brydyork Hills; in short, -through these groves - - “How long soe’er the wanderer roves, each step - Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents - A diff’rent picture—new, and yet the same.” - -The tower of Wrexham, and the town itself, as occasion offers, is a -nearer and an additional charming object. In an alteration of the walks, -a few years since, were discovered below the surface of the ground the -shattered walls of an ancient castle. These fragments Mr. Yorke has left -unimpaired, and they remain a memento of the vicissitudes of fortune: the -entrenchments round the castle, and likewise the original site of the -keep, are still very apparent. - -The house itself is very indifferent: Watt’s Dyke runs through part of -the grounds. In a parlour opposite the garden we observed some fine -paintings of the Hardwicke family. Mr. Yorke has dedicated another room -to the royal tribes of Wales, {279} where the arms and lines of the -descent, as far as they can be traced, are emblazoned and hung up. - -In the coolness of the evening our hospitable host conducted us to the -neat and elegant little country church of March Wiel, lately cased with -stone; and in the year 1788 ornamented with a new painted window, by Mr. -Egington, near Birmingham. The twenty-one compartments contain the arms -and crests of the Middletons and Yorkes, with rich transparent borders. -This window is undoubtedly very elegant, but the subject, in my opinion, -more adapted to a ball than an ornament to a church window. The high -tower appears not in proportion with the body of the church. - -Deeply impressed with sentiments of gratitude towards our reverend -friend, and sensible of his hospitality and kind intentions, we took our -leave of him early the next morning, and pursued our route to - - - -RUABON, - - -purposing to visit Wynnstay Park, the much-admired seat of Sir Watkin -Williams Wynne. On leaving March Wiel, a most delightful prospect spread -before us; in the retrospect, the tower of Wrexham Church brought to our -recollection the views of Magdalen College tower, in the vicinity of -Oxford. - -The park of Wynnstay is well stocked with red deer; excellent -plantations; and the house is an elegant modern structure; but has -nothing in the inside particularly deserving the attention of the -traveller. In the grounds the chief object worthy of inspection is a -very elegant obelisk, erected to the memory of the present Sir Watkin’s -father. The height is a hundred and one feet; the base of it sixteen, -and the top nine, built with free-stone, and fluted. Round the top is -formed a gallery, with a handsome urn in bronze, after an elegant design, -cast in London: round the base of the column are wreaths of oak leaves, -in the beaks of four eagles, cast in the same metal. On the south-west -side is a door, with a stair-case within the obelisk leading to the top. -We regretted that the key could not be procured, as the prospect from -that elevation must be extremely fine. On the other three sides an -appropriate inscription, in English, Welsh, and Latin, is to be carved. - -Through this park runs Offa’s Dyke, thrown up by the great King of -Mercia, from whence it derives its name, to check the irruptions of the -Welsh, mark the confines of each country, and give greater security to -his own. It begins at Basingwerk in Flintshire, and ends at Chepstow in -Monmouthshire; extending in a line of not less than one hundred and fifty -miles over rocks and mountains. This great undertaking still retains the -ancient name of Clawdh Offa, or Offa’s Dyke. - -Passing through the little village of Ruabon, situated at the extremity -of Sir Watkin’s park, a very interesting and picturesque country, -composed of rich valleys and gently sloping hills, presented itself to -our view; and, at some distance, we soon caught a glimpse of Chirk -Castle, a noble seat of the family of the Middletons, standing on an -eminence. Four miles from Llangollen we inquired for the wonderful - - - -PONTCYSYLLTY AQUEDUCT, {281} - - -(pronounced Pont y Casulte) or famous aqueduct, erected near that bridge, -over the river Dee, and found ourselves within half a mile of this great -and astonishing undertaking. The stone of which it is built resembles -that of Portland; and the effect which it produces, from whatever point -it is viewed, is highly pleasing. On the middle column is the following -inscription: - - “The Nobility and Gentry of - The adjacent counties, - Having united their efforts with - The great commercial interest of this country, - In creating an intercourse and union between - England and Wales, - By a navigable communication of the three rivers, - Severn, Dee, and Mersey; - For the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade, - Caused the first stone of this aqueduct of - PONTCYSYLLTY, - To be laid on the 25th day of July, M.DCC.XCV. - When RICHARD MYDDLETON, of Chirk, Esq. M.P. - One of the original Patrons of the - Ellesmere Canal, - Was Lord of this Manor, - And in the reign of our Sovereign, - GEORGE the Third; - When the equity of the Laws, and - The security of Property, - Promoted the general welfare of the nation; - While the Arts and Sciences flourished - By his patronage, and - The conduct of Civil Life was improved - By his example.” - -“Pont y Cyssyllte, a bridge of several arches, close to it, is quite -eclipsed by its stupendous height and magnitude. In it we recognize the -great water conveyances of ancient Rome, which, though superior in point -of length, were inferior in other respects. Its direction is north and -south, crossing the Dee at right angles. It forms, connected as it is -with the surrounding fine scenery, a noble and magnificent picture; but -to view it to the best advantage, the stranger must ascend the -acclivities on either side of it: from whence he will be highly pleased -with a scene, in which there is every concomitant circumstance that can -please the lover of nature and art.” - -The extent of the aqueduct is nine hundred and eighty-eight feet, and -exhibits nineteen arches, each forty-five feet span. The summit has a -water-trough of cast iron, one thousand and nine feet in length, and in -breadth eleven feet eight inches. The elegant piers lessen upwards -gradually, from ten feet width, and twenty-one feet depth at the base, to -seven feet width, and twelve feet depth at the top. These piers are one -hundred and sixteen feet high from the river, and from their ending, to -the greatest height of the building, twenty feet; making the total -elevation, one hundred and twenty-six feet. To each end of the aqueduct -are added ten feet six inches of iron work. From centre to centre of -each arch are screwed together eleven strong iron plates, as -strengthened. - -The lime rocks here are very great; and, by calcination on the spot, are -rendered fit for immediate use; and, as the Ellesmere canal is opened for -public traffic, they must yield immense profit to the proprietors, who -are now enabled to supply all the neighbouring counties, Chester, -Liverpool, &c. - -Wood, water, and sloping hills, all combine to render this vale -interesting. Several detached cottages are sprinkled through its wooded -declivities; and here and there a gentleman’s seat, “embosomed high in -tufted trees,” makes a pleasing feature in the fascinating landscape. -Returning to the turnpike road, a short saunter soon brought us to the -romantically-situated town of - - - -LLANGOLLEN, - - -(pronounced Thlangothlen) completely environed with mountains, with a -high hill to our right, bearing on its narrow peak the small remains of -Castle Dinas Brân. The bridge, adjacent to the town, thrown over the -rapid Dee, consisting of six arches, and formerly esteemed one of the -principal wonders of Wales, by no means answered our expectations. Some -difficulty, no doubt, attended its first erection, as the foundation is -built on the solid rock. - -The elegant description of the valley in the kingdom of Amhara, by Dr. -Johnson, is very applicable to Llangollen; for “all the blessings of -nature seemed here to be collected, and its evils extracted and -excluded.” Without a sigh of regret, not like the discontented Rasselas, -I could here pass the remainder of my days, “in full conviction, that -this vale contains within its reach all that art or nature can bestow. I -could pity those, whom fate had excluded from this seat of tranquillity, -as the sport of chance, and the slaves of misery.” Such is the enviable -situation of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby; who, thus veiled in -obscurity, have fitted up, in a true characteristic style, an elegant -little cottage, at the west extremity of the town, situated on a knoll. -The two rooms which are allotted for the inspection of strangers, are -very handsomely furnished: the dining-room is ornamented with drawings, -the most favourite spots in the vicinity being selected as the subjects. -The window commands a prospect of the mountains, which awfully rise in -front. The study, looking on the well-arranged plantations of the -garden, was appropriately furnished with a choice collection of books. -We regretted, in the absence of the gardener, that we could not gain -admittance to the grounds. The vale of Llangollen, and this enviable -retreat, have been the subject of much admiration, both in verse and -prose; and highly deserve the praises which have been lavished upon it: - - “Say, ivy’d Valle Crucis; time delay’d - Dim on the brink of Deva’s wand’ring floods, - Your ivy’d arch glitt’ring through the tangled shade, - Your grey hills tow’ring o’er your night of woods; - Deep in the vale recesses as you stand, - And, desolately great, the rising sign command; - Say, lovely ruin’d pile, when former years - Saw your pale train at midnight altars bow; - Saw superstition frown upon the tears - That mourn’d the rash, irrevocable vow; - Wore one young lip gay Eleanora’s {285a} smile? - Did Zara’s {285b} look serene one tedious hour beguile?” - -The bridge of Llangollen is thus described by the elegant pen of Mr. -Pennant:—“The bridge, which was founded by the first John Trevor, bishop -of St. Asaph, {285c} who died in 1357, is one of the Tri Thlws Cymru, or -three beauties of Wales: but more remarkable for its situation than -structure. It consists of five arches; whose widest does not exceed -twenty-eight feet in diameter. The river usually runs under only one; -where it has formed a black chasm of vast depth, into which the water -pours with great fury from a high broken ledge, formed in the smooth and -solid rock, which composes the whole bed of the river. The view through -the arches, either upwards or downwards, is extremely picturesque.” - -Having satisfied our curiosity, Dinas Brân, or Crow Castle, next invited -our attention; and having attained the summit of a steep and craggy hill, -commanding a pleasing view of Llangollen, we arrived at the ruins, which -crest this precipice. The remains of this castle are now so trifling, -that it scarcely repays even the enthusiast the trouble of ascending. -Its appearance is by no means picturesque; not a tree to give effect to -the crumbling walls: nor has time spared one of the towers. It was -formerly the residence of Myfanwy Vechan, so celebrated in verse. The -castle is built of the stone which composes the hill, on which it is -erected. - -The prospect is very pleasing. Chirk Castle, Wynnstay Park, {286} and -many other seats of respectability, more particularly conspicuous. Great -part of the vale, and the meandering course of the Dee, may here be -traced; whilst the opposite hills are shelved off in an extraordinary and -unusual manner, resembling so many walls or fortifications. - -The author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, thus -describes his ascent up this mountain. “The sun was shooting its evening -rays along the vale, embellishing every thing they touched. It having -rained all the morning, the freshness with which spring had clad every -object, gave additional impulse to all our feelings. Arrived at the -summit, the scene became truly captivating: for nature appeared to have -drawn the veil from her bosom, and to glory in her charms. The season of -early spring, which, in other countries, serves only to exhibit their -poverty, displayed new beauties in this. Nature had thrown off her -mantle of snow, and appeared to invite the beholder to take a last look -of her beauties, ere she shaded the cottage with woodbine, or screened -with leaves the fantastic arms of the oak. The clouds soon began to form -over their heads, and a waving column lightly touched their hats. Around -was one continued range of mountains, with DINAS rising above the river. -Immediately below, lay a beautifully-diversified vale, with the -Dee,—Milton’s ‘Wizard Stream,’—combining all the charms of the Arno and -the Loire, winding through the middle of it: while on the east side of -the mountain several villages seemed to rest in calm repose. This -beautiful scene was soon converted into a sublime one. For the clouds -assuming a more gloomy character, the tops of all the mountains around -became totally enveloped; and our heads were now and then encircled with -a heavy vapour. A more perfect union of the beautiful and magnificent it -were difficult to conceive. No object was discernible above; but below, -how captivating! Their feet were illumined by the sun, their heads, as -it were, touching the clouds. Above, all was gloomy and dark; below, the -sun, from the west, still illumined the villages and spires, the cottages -and woods, the pastures and fields, which lay scattered in every -direction; while the Dee, at intervals, swept, in many a graceful curve, -along the bottom of the vale. These objects, so variously blended, and -so admirably contrasted with the sombre scene above them, called to the -imagination the golden thoughts of Ariosto; and inspired such a -combination of feelings, that, for a time, they were absorbed in silent -meditation. While they were indulging in this repose, the sounds of -village bells, in honour of a recent marriage, came floating on the -breeze from below. The sounds, softened by the distance, and coming from -a region so far beneath, lulled them with a choral symphony, that excited -the most delightful sensations. And such must ever be the effect on -those whose happiness has not been smothered beneath a load of splendid -vacuities; in whom society has not engendered an infinity of wants; in -whom ignorance has not awakened pride, arrogance, and vanity; and in whom -content has the power of lulling every fever of illegitimate desire.” - -Having descended this steep eminence, we continued our route to Valle -Crucis Abbey, about two miles distant from Llangollen. It would be -advisable for strangers first to visit Valle Crucis, and take Dinas Brân -Castle in their way back to their inn. The transmutations of time are -frequently ridiculous: the long aisles of this monastery, which were once -only responsive to the slow-breathed chant, now repeat the rude -dissonance of cows, ducks, and all manner of poultry. Instead of these -emblems of rusticity, the mind’s eye is more accustomed to appropriate -these antique edifices to the midnight procession of monks issuing from -their cells to perform the solemn service. These neglected walls are too -deeply shrouded by the melancholy grove of towering ash, contiguously -formed, to be seen to advantage. An axe, judiciously used, would be of -service to the ruin, as the elegant window of the chapel is completely -concealed by the luxuriant vegetation around; still, however, a pleasing -melancholy pervades the whole scene. The abbey is beautifully screened -on all sides by woody hills, which entirely protect it from the -inclemency of the winter. - -This ancient Cistertian monastery was founded by Madoc ap Griffith -Maelor, in the year 1200, and is sometimes called Llan-Egwiste, or -Llanegwast. In this vale was the pillar of Eglwyseg: but the country -people appeared quite ignorant of its situation. Returning to -Llangollen, we pursued the turnpike road to the neat village of - - - -CHIRK. - - -For some way we followed the straight and formal course of a canal, near -this, communicating with the Pont-y-Cyssyllte; we again paused to survey -this wonderful design. The vale, on our left, was indescribably -beautiful; and over the whole was diffused the purple glow of the -evening. The prospect was composed of the miniature parts of the immense -landscape we had viewed from Dinas Brân Hill, each of which we now -contemplated separately as a scene. The moon’s chequered gleam -besilvered the walls of Chirk Castle, just as we entered the Hand Inn, -where, after the fatigues of a long walk, we met with excellent -accommodation, when considered as a village. - -After breakfast the next morning we endeavoured to obtain admission to -see the inside of Chirk Castle, but without success; though now only -inhabited by servants, who were peremptorily commanded to admit no -strangers. It is situated on an eminence, surrounded by a park and fine -plantations, which are very judiciously laid out. This elegant mansion -has been in the possession of the Middleton family ever since the year -1614. Having gratified ourselves with a survey of this noble park, we -returned to the Oswestry road. Leaving the village of Chirk, we crossed -a new bridge of one arch, elegantly constructed. Near it is another -aqueduct, of considerable extent, now erecting over this river and -valley, which though very inferior to the Pont-y-Cyssyllte, is still a -great undertaking; it is several hundred yards in length, and the brick -piers rise fifty or sixty feet above the level of the water. Near this -is a rich coal mine, lately discovered. - -From hence to Oswestry we traversed a rich enclosed country, and enjoyed -a scene particularly pleasing: all the inhabitants were collected, to -gather in the produce of the ripened field; and - - “Through their cheerful band the rural talk, - The rural scandal, and the rural jest, - Fled harmless.” - -To the traveller and the poet such scenes afford an ample field for -amusement; but waving corn is ill adapted to the canvass of the painter. -About two miles from Oswestry, we passed through the little town of - - - -WHITTINGTON. - - -At this place was fought the battle between Oswald, the Christian king of -the Northumbrians, and Penda, the Pagan king of the Mercians, in which -the former lost his life. An easy walk soon brought us to - - - -OSWESTRY. - - -Its only relics now remaining are the ruins of a chapel, built over a -remarkably fine spring of water; to this was formerly attributed the cure -of various diseases, incident both to man and beast; and though its -miracles have long ceased, yet it still bears the name of the saint. The -remains of the castle, supposed to have been built at the time of the -Conquest, are now almost too trivial to be noticed. This town was -garrisoned by the king, in the beginning of the civil wars, but captured -in June, 1644, by the Earl of Denbigh and General Mytton. - -In passing through the town of Oswestry we noticed the church, as being a -very neat building; but, either from our own neglect, or imagining it not -to be ancient, we did not inspect the interior. Oswestry suffered -greatly by fire in the year 1542, and likewise in 1567. - -“The chirch of St. Oswalde,” says Leland, “is a very faire leddid chirch, -with a great tourrid steple, but it standeth without the new gate; so -that no chirch is there withyn the towne. This chirch was sum time a -monasterie, caullid the _White Minster_. After turnid to a paroche -chirch, and the personage impropriate to the abbey of Shreusbyri. The -cloister stoode in hominum memoria ubi monumenta monachorum. The place -and streate wer the chirch standithe is called Stretllan.” From this -place to - - - -LLANYMYNACH, - - -situate on the north bank of the Evyrnwy, a continuation of the rich -enclosed country, showing to advantage the agriculture of these parts, -attended us till we reached the foot of the hill of Llanymynach. From -the summit of this we enjoyed a most beautiful and boundless prospect, -commanding the whole dome of the sky. All individual dignity was -overpowered by the immensity of the whole view, which consisted more -particularly of the rivers Virnwy and Tannad, joining their waters with -the Severn; the lofty waterfall of Pystyll Rhaiadr—the Breddin Hills—and -the Ferwyn Mountains. The geological observations on Llanymynach Hill, -by Mr. Aikin, are so accurate, that to attempt any further description -would be deemed highly presumptuous in me; I shall therefore avail myself -of an account so ably delineated. - -“The hill of Llanymynach is not only remarkable for the fine prospect -from its top, it is still more worthy notice, as containing by far the -most extensive lime works of any in this part of the country. The lime -of Llanymynach rock is in high request as a manure, and is sent by -land-carriage as far as Montgomery, New-town, and even Llanidloes: it -sells at the kilns for sevenpence a bushel; and from thirty to thirty-six -bushels are reckoned a waggon load; the coal with which it is burnt, is -brought partly from the neighbourhood of Oswestry, and partly from Sir -Watkin Williams Wynne’s pits, near Ruabon. The lime lies in strata, -parallel to the horizon, varying in thickness from three inches to five -feet; it is of an extraordinary hardness, with but little calcareous -spar, and few shells, or rather marine exuvial; its colour reddish brown, -burning to almost white. Between the strata of lime we found a very -tenacious smooth clay, orange-colour ochre, and green plumose carbonate -of copper, or malachite. It was in search of this copper that the Romans -carried on here such extensive works, of which the remains are still very -visible: they consist of a range of from twenty to thirty shallow pits, -the heaps of rubbish from the mouths of which abound with small pieces of -copper ore, and a cave of considerable dimensions, terminating in an -irregular winding passage of unknown length, connected with which are two -air-shafts still remaining open, and the appearances of several others -now filled up: in some of these caverns are found large and beautiful -specimens of stalactite. One of the levels was explored some years ago, -and in it was discovered a skeleton, with mining tools, and some Roman -copper coins. The whole mass of the hill seems more or less impregnated -with copper: wherever the surface is uncovered, there are evident marks -of the presence of this metal, and the stones composing the rampart of -Offa’s Dyke, which encompasses two sides of the hill, are in many parts -covered with cupreus efflorescences. Between the village and the rock -passes a branch of the Ellesmere canal, which, when navigable, will add -much to the value of these works, by rendering them more accessible to -the surrounding country, and may induce some spirited adventurer to -re-commence a search after copper, which, it is evident, was formerly -prosecuted with considerable success.” - -This description of Llanymynach Hill we pronounce, from our own -observation, to be very accurate, so that the length of the quotation -will be readily excused. Leaving the pretty village of Llanymynach, -situated on the banks of the Virnwy, we resumed our journey to Welsh -Pool. The face of the country was pleasing; and we soon reached the -Breddin Hills, on whose summit a column is erected to commemorate the -victory of Admiral Lord Rodney over the French, in the year 1782. Not -far from hence we passed a handsome aqueduct, admirably constructed over -the river Virnwy, of great strength and stability. The vale of the -Severn affords much picturesque scenery, and we at length arrived at - - - -WELSH POOL QUAY, - - -about three miles from that place. Several vessels were lying here, -which carry on a constant traffic with Worcester, and the towns situated -on the banks of this noble river. Before our entrée into Pool, Powis -Castle appeared on an eminence, immediately rising behind the town, and -beautifully backed by a large plantation of trees. - -Welsh Pool derives its name from a black pool in its neighbourhood, (its -Welsh appellation signifying a quagmire or pool), and is one of the five -boroughs in Montgomeryshire, which jointly send a member to Parliament. -The town is by no means neat: it stands on a low hill, and consists of -one principal street, in which are situated the new county-hall and -market-places. The Severn is navigable within three quarters of a mile -of this town, which is computed at not less than two hundred miles from -its junction with the British channel. It is the great market for the -Welsh flannel, called gwart, or webb, prepared in many parts of -Merionethshire, and generally used for soldiers’ clothes. This trade, -however, has of late been very inconsiderable. - -Powis Castle (anciently called Poole Castle) the seat of Lord Clive, lies -to the right, about one mile from Pool, on the ridge of a rock, retaining -a mixture of castle and mansion. Here Lucien Buonaparte lived several -years. It is built of red stone, and originally contained within its -walls two castles: the entrance is between two round towers. There are -several family portraits in a long gallery, measuring one hundred and -seventeen feet by twenty. The gardens still retain that stiff formality -so much in vogue many years ago; but the curious water-works, in -imitation of the wretched taste of St. Germains-en-Laye, are now -destroyed. The prospect from the castle is very extensive, comprehending -a view of Welsh Poole, Vale, and Freiddin Hills. From hence to - - - -MONTGOMERY, - - -the Ellesmere canal accompanied us part of the way; and at length, after -a fatiguing walk, we reached the Green Dragon, a small and comfortable -inn. The site of Montgomery is very pleasing, on a gentle ascent, and -backed by a steep hill, beautifully clothed with the rich plantations -belonging to Lord Powis. The town itself is a straggling place, and has -little to recommend it. The remains of the castle are now too trifling -to interest the passing traveller. - -In the year 1094, this castle was gallantly defended by the Normans; but -the Welsh, at last, finding means to undermine the walls, took it by -storm; and after putting the garrison to the sword, levelled it to the -ground. It was rebuilt by King Henry III., in the year 1221, as a check -to the incursions of the Welsh; but a second time razed to the ground by -Llewelyn the Great, Prince of Wales. It afterwards became the seat of -the ancestors of the Lord Herbert of Cherbury, who was born here, and -continued in possession of his descendants, till reduced to its present -ruinous condition by the civil wars. - -The road to - - - -BISHOP’S CASTLE - - -brought us through a very rich country; and, on ascending a hill, about -five miles from Montgomery, a retrospect of the far-distant mountainous -country of Wales, to which we were now bidding a last adieu, irresistibly -brought on a train of serious reflections. In a retrospect like this, -where the subject and the scene must inspire serious thoughts, such -traces are not unpleasing; they tend to promote one general effect—the -love of contemplation. We enumerated the little incidents which had -taken place, indulging reflections on scenes for ever past:—we erected on -the spot which we esteemed most adapted to retirement, the visionary -cottage: our schemes were instantly arranged: fancy fashioned its -ornaments, adapted its appendages,—and fancy will ever exceed realities. -But all our air-built plans of future happiness soon vanished: and, alas! -when - - . . . “fancy scatters roses all around, - What blissful visions rise! In prospect bright - Awhile they charm the soul; but scarce attain’d, - The gay delusion fades. Another comes; - The soft enchantment is again renew’d, - And youth again enjoys the airy dreams - Of fancied good.” - -Bishop’s Castle is situated in a bottom. We found it a more extensive -place than we expected; but being shortly convinced that there was -nothing particular to require a long stay, and having recruited ourselves -at the Castle Inn, we hastened to leave the town. The road, for the -first seven miles, continually dipped into shallow valleys, well wooded, -affording cursory views, with many a substantial farmer’s habitation -lurking amongst the trees. At length a rich and noble vale, with -extensive woods on our right, animated with several gentlemen’s seats, -and watered by an overflowing stream running immediately close to the -road accompanied us to - - - -LUDLOW, - - -situated on an eminence in the midst of this most luxuriant country. -After the many indifferent Welsh towns which we had passed through since -the commencement of our pedestrian excursion, we felt ourselves not a -little chagrined at our uncouth appearance on entering so gay a place. -The streets are commodious, and the houses and public buildings extremely -neat. The gravel walks round the castle are extensive, and command, at -occasional points, distinct prospects of the gentlemen’s seats in the -neighbourhood, with their grounds and noble plantations. The river Teme -gives additional beauty to this fascinating spot: the new bridge recently -erected, a little below the castle, forms likewise, from this spot, by no -means an uninteresting object; add to this, at suitable distances, the -river, by means of dams, is formed into small artificial cascades. At -the extremity of the town is another bridge, separating the counties of -Shropshire and Hereford. These walks were laid out in the year 1772, by -the Countess of Powis, at a great expense. The overshadowing trees not -only afford refreshing shelter from a summer’s sun, but are likewise a -protection from the piercing winter’s wind: indeed, - - . . . “I could rove - At morn, at noon, at eve, by lunar ray, - In each returning season, through your shade, - Ye rev’rend woods; could visit every dell, - Each hill, each breezy lawn, each wand’ring brook, - And bid the world admire; each magic spot again - Could seek, and tell again of all its charms.” - -Towards the north, the mazy course of the Teme,—Oakley Park, the elegant -seat of the Dowager Lady Clive,—the Clee Hills,—the celebrated Caer -Caradoc, with the other eminences near Stretton, terminating the view, -present a most pleasing landscape. Towards the west, a combination of -rock, wood, and water, gratifies the warmest wish of fancy. - -The Whitecliff, opposite to the castle, and Hackluyt’s Close, near the -Leominster road, are the two other most favourite walks; but that round -the castle is resorted to as the most fashionable promenade. The town of -Ludlow has been calculated to contain seven hundred and two houses, and -nearly three thousand five hundred and sixty-five persons. {299} The -public buildings are the market-house, the guildhall, the prison (called -Gaolford’s tower), and the cross. The rooms over the latter are -dedicated for the instruction of thirty poor boys, and fifteen poor -girls; and the former at a proper age are apprenticed out. The town -enjoys no particular manufactory, but its chief trade consists in the -article of gloves. - -The castle, the palace of the Prince of Wales in right of his -principality, is now entirely in ruins, except Mortimer’s Tower, which -was repaired by Sir Henry Sidney, during his presidency. It is now -inhabited by an old servant of Lord Powis’s, a very civil and intelligent -man, who related with the utmost concern the sad vicissitudes this castle -had experienced: he insisted on our entering the tower of his habitation, -and ascending the crumbling stairs, for a full display of the various -beauties in the vicinity of Ludlow. He expatiated much on a valuable -diamond ring, which he had discovered himself when attempting to drain a -cellar; the inscription of Hebrew characters round the gold within the -ring was interpreted by the learned, “a good heart;” this, and several -coins of silver and gold, which were found at the same time, are now in -the possession of Lord Powis: near the same spot a number of skeletons -were likewise dug up. He next conducted us to a small room in this -tower, to observe an old stone placed over the fire-place, with a cross, -the letters W. S. and the date 1575, engraven on it. - -Over the south-east gateway, leading into the interior of the castle, are -the arms of Elizabeth, Queen of England; and beneath, those of the Sydney -family, with the following inscription: - - HOMINIBUS INGRATIS LOQUIMINI - LAPIDES.—ANN. REGNI REGINÆ - ELIZABETHÆ 23.—THE 28 YEAR - COPLET OF THE RESIDENCE - OF SIR HENRY SYDNEY KNIGHT - OF THE MOST NOBLE ORDER OF THE - GARTER, 1581. - -This castle, founded by Roger de Montgomery, on a rock, in the north-east -angle of the town, supposed to be in the year 1112, was considerably -enlarged by Sir Henry Sydney. Its ancient British name, Dinan Llys -Tywysog, signifies the Prince’s Palace. The vicissitudes of war have -frequently been exemplified in this castle; it has had its lords and its -princes; it has been plundered, captured, dismantled, and repaired, in -those periods of civil warfare, which this unfortunate country in former -times continually experienced. Philips, in the History and Antiquities -of Shrewsbury, during those melancholy troubles, gives some account of -this castle. Some historians affirm that King Edward V. and his brother -were born in Ludlow Castle; but others, not crediting this assertion, -attribute their birth-place to Wigmore; certain, however, it is, that -during their minority they here held their court, under the tuition of -Lord Anthony Woodville and Lord Scales, till they were removed to London, -and soon after smothered in the Tower by the command of their cruel and -ambitious uncle, the Duke of Gloucester. Here, likewise, Prince Arthur, -the eldest son of King Henry VII., celebrated his marriage with the -virtuous Catherine of Arragon; and in the year 1502 he here paid the debt -of nature, and was buried in the cathedral church of Worcester. - -The account of the representation at Ludlow of Milton’s celebrated mask -of Comus, is thus mentioned in the life of that poet, prefixed to -Newton’s edition:—“It was in the year 1634 that this mask was presented -at Ludlow Castle. There was formerly a president of Wales, and a sort of -a court kept at Ludlow, which has since been abolished; and the president -at that time was the Earl of Bridgewater, before whom Milton’s mask was -presented on Michaelmas night; and the principal parts, those of the two -brothers, were performed by his lordship’s sons, the Lord Brackly and Mr. -Thomas Egerton; and that of the lady, by his lordship’s daughter, the -Lady Alice Egerton.” - -In the first year of William and Mary the presidency was dissolved by Act -of Parliament, “being a great grievance to the subject, and a means to -introduce an arbitrary power, especially in the late reign, when a new -convert family were at the head of it.” - -The church next demanded our attention, the only one belonging to this -town. The time of the foundation of this ancient and elegant structure -cannot now be strictly ascertained: it is situated on an eminence, in the -centre of the town. The square tower is lofty, and of very light -architecture, but the upper part suffered much from the all-destroying -hand of Oliver Cromwell. The highly-finished statues round the -battlements are much mutilated, and many entirely destroyed. On entering -the church, six light Gothic fluted arches on each side, with four -similar ones of larger dimensions, supporting the tower, are strikingly -grand. Under the organ-loft we passed into the chancel, now only made -use of for the administration of the sacrament. This is a most elegant -building, with thirteen stalls on each side, similar, in style, to the -generality of cathedrals. The seats of the stalls, all of which turn -back, exhibit specimens of curious workmanship, with strange devices and -ridiculous conceits. Some of the glass painted windows are still in good -preservation: the large one over the altar-piece represents the history -of St. Lawrence, to whom this church is dedicated, in fifty-four -compartments. The other windows of the chancel are much mutilated, -collected from different parts of the church, and several panes broken by -the unmeaning idleness of boys, regardless of these valuable relics of -antiquity.—In the side of the wall, near the altar, are two stone stalls, -with a piscina opposite. - -In this chancel is a handsome monument, erected to the memory of Robert -Townsend and his wife, with several figures of their sons and daughters -carved round the bottom; over them are the arms of their family and -connexions; it bears the date of 1581: a modern monument to Theophilus -Solway, Esq. An ancient one to Ambrosia Sydney, who died at Ludlow -Castle. This lady was daughter to Sir Henry Sydney, who attained the -important situation of the presidency of Wales in the year 1564. He died -at Bewdley in 1584, and left this singular injunction to his executors: -“That his heart should be buried at Shrewsbury, his bowels at Bewdley, -and his body at Ludlow, in the tomb of his favourite daughter Ambrosia.” -This order was punctually executed; and the leaden urn, containing his -heart, was six inches deep, and five inches in diameter at the top, with -this inscription carved three times round it: - -“Her lith the Harte of Syr Henrye Sydney, L. P. _anno Domini_, 1586.” -For an engraving of this urn, taken from a drawing of Mr. S. Nicholas, -see the Gentleman’s Magazine for September, 1794. Another monument to -Edward Weston and his wife, kneeling opposite to each other. - -In this church is likewise buried Sir John Bridgeman, the last president -but one of Ludlow Castle. He was extremely rigid in his office; and one -Ralph Gittins, who had probably experienced his severity, composed the -following epitaph on him: - - “Here lies Sir John Bridgeman, clad in his clay: - God said to the Devil, Sirrah, take him away.” - -Should the tourist find time to make any stay at Ludlow, several -excursions in the neighbourhood will prove highly gratifying. Oakley -Park, the elegant seat of the Dowager Lady Clive, claims the greatest -attention; it is situated about two miles from Ludlow, on the banks of -the Teme River: just beyond this, a seat of — Walpole, Esq. About five -miles distant is Downton Castle, the noble mansion and fine walks of -Richard Payne Knight, Esq. one of the representatives in Parliament for -the borough of Ludlow. Being necessitated to leave this charming country -by a particular day, we had no opportunity of visiting these celebrated -and much-admired houses. - -With regret we left the delightful situation of Ludlow; and, crossing -Lawford’s bridge, we ascended an eminence along a beautiful terrace, -commanding a most charming and pleasant country to our left, with the -fertile county of Hereford, abounding with orchards, which were all -bending with the produce of the year. About two miles from Ludlow, on -the right, we paused to admire the delightful seat of Theophilus Richard -Solway, Esq. situated on an eminence, and skirted by a rich plantation of -wood towards the west: it is called the Lodge. Descending into a bottom, -a rich country, studded with farm-houses, soon brought us to the town of - - - -LEOMINSTER, - - -or Leminster, consisting of one long street. The market-place in the -centre, bearing a very old date, and likewise the church, are both -deserving of the traveller’s notice. It is situated in a flat, and the -country round it is not particularly interesting. From hence a turnpike -road, showing to advantage the rich culture of the country, soon brought -us within sight of the venerable cathedral of - - - -HEREFORD, - - -backed by a sloping eminence just rising behind, and beautifully clothed -with wood. Being under a particular engagement to meet a party at Ross, -to accompany us down the Wye the following day, time would not allow us -to investigate this respectable city so minutely as it deserves. Our -observations, therefore, were so cursory, that the Hereford Guide must -supply the deficiencies in this part of our journal; this neglect the -tourist must attribute to our delay at the engaging town of Ludlow. - -At Hereford we for some time hesitated respecting the hire of a boat to -convey us to Ross; but the exorbitant demand of the boatmen soon -determined us to pursue the turnpike road, and follow as near as possible -the course of the Wye. The orchards were overcharged with “bending -fruit,” and seemed to prognosticate a more favourable cider season than -has of late been experienced. The retrospect of the city, with its -ancient cathedral, formed a most attracting view; and about three miles a -most lovely vale, bounded by the hills of South Wales, arrested our -attention. A continuation of the same scenery of orchards, in which -Herefordshire so peculiarly abounds, with the road continually dipping -into shallow valleys, attended us within five miles of Ross; when, -ascending a steep hill, a view of that town, or, rather, of its -far-conspicuous spire, broke in upon the reposing character of the scene. -This presently conducted us to Wilton bridge, thrown over the Wye; and, -leaving the castle to the left, we ascended the town of - - - -ROSS, - - -to the inn, so celebrated as the original habitation of Mr. Kyrle; more -generally known by the name of the Man of Ross. The landlord seems -rather to depend upon the custom of strangers, and from this circumstance -the inn offers indifferent accommodations. On the bridge we paused a -short time to take a view of the meandering Vaga, which here considerably -widens. Several pleasure-boats, of various constructions, were riding at -anchor, and united to enliven the watery scene; whilst its smooth -tranquil surface reflected and reverted every object situated on the -banks. - -The life and character of Mr. Kyrle has too often been insisted on, and -too frequently celebrated in verse, to be again repeated, unless to -“point out its moral to the heart;” teaching us that self-approbation can -confer an inward happiness superior to all worldly applause; for, - - “What nothing earthly gives, or can destroy; - The soul’s calm sunshine, and the heart-felt joy, - Is virtue’s prize.” - -Such a bustle pervaded the whole town, of parties assembling here for an -aquatic expedition to Monmouth the following day, that with difficulty we -obtained a small room. From this circumstance it would be advisable for -parties to secure themselves accommodations, during the summer months, a -considerable time beforehand; such is the continued assemblage of parties -forming for the Wye. A boat likewise should be hired, and by mentioning -the number of your party, the landlord will be a proper judge respecting -the size. Strangers may pass with pleasure the greatest part of a day in -surveying the views in the vicinity of Ross; views which must gratify the -most superficial observer, but more particularly from the churchyard. A -walk may be preferred through the latter place to the Prospect, so called -from the profuse variety of objects in the beautiful and the sublime, -which are presented from this spot. The sudden bursts of such a -collection of beauties the eye, indeed, cannot contain without -gratification. The river below bends itself in the whimsical and -fantastical shape of a horse-shoe; this singular wind of the river—the -ruins of Wilton Castle—the luxuriant counties of Hereford and Monmouth, -and the beautiful Chase Woods, all combine to promote one peculiarly -grand and striking effect. To enter into a minute description of objects -so various and extensive, is impossible: in fine, to delineate the -beauties of the Vaga, with all its accompaniments, would be enumerating -every object that is interesting in nature. Having sufficiently -contemplated the view from the Prospect, a ramble through the meadows -will next prove highly pleasing. - -The situation of Ross, though exceedingly beautiful, has nothing in -itself to detain attention: the streets are narrow, dirty, and -inconvenient. The castle of Wilton, situated on the banks of the Wye, -was founded in the reign of King Henry the First: it was formerly a -nunnery, from whence the Greys de Wilton derive their title. - -Early in the morning we congratulated each other on the favourable state -of the weather, and with good spirits provided all the necessaries -requisite for our water expedition; the enjoyment of which depends much -upon the season. The hire of the boat to Monmouth by water is one pound -eleven shillings and sixpence, not including ten shillings for provisions -for the men, who likewise expect an additional small sum, after the -fatigues of the day. The boat, navigated by three men, will contain ten -or twelve people without any inconvenience, and is properly protected by -an awning from the heat of the sun. The distance from Ross to Chepstow, -by water, is more than forty miles, which strangers occasionally -accomplish in one day: but this hurrying method will not allow them an -opportunity of inspecting, with proper attention, the various objects -which deserve to be noticed; and they cannot possibly find time to leave -their boat, and climb the rugged steep banks of the Wye in search of -views, which, though visited by the discerning few, yet merit the regard -of every amateur of nature’s landscapes. And here it may not be improper -to mention, that the boatmen too frequently suffer these most interesting -spots to be passed unnoticed by strangers, merely from laziness, or to -avoid the delay of a few minutes. Gilpin, in his excellent treatise, -Observations on the River Wye, thus analyzes, in the second section, the -beauties of the “echoing Vaga,” and divides its constituent parts -into—the steepness of its banks, its mazy course, the ground, woods, and -rocks, which are its native ornaments, and, lastly, the buildings. To -this he might with propriety have added its echoes, the variety of views -from its banks, the fishing coracles, which are continually on the river; -for all these contribute to form one pleasing and interesting effect. - -We embarked on board our boat a little below the town; and the first -object which drew our attention was the ivy-mantled walls of Wilton -Castle. The annual growth of the few trees which encircle it will in -time render it a more picturesque object; it is at present so -sufficiently seen from the water as not to require the stranger to -disembark for farther inspection. A few yards below we passed under -Wilton Bridge, an elegant structure of several arches. From hence, for -four or five miles, the banks are tame and uninteresting, and so high -above the river as to prevent a prospect of the adjacent country; but a -group of cattle, some ruminating on the brink, some browzing on the -ashlings which overhung the stream, and others - - —“From their sides, - The troublous insects lashing with their tails, - Returning still,” - -formed a “rural confusion.” The velocity of the stream shortly brought -us to that noble scenery, about four miles from Ross, which so eminently -distinguishes and constitutes the beauty of the Wye: before us the noble -remains of Goodrich Castle, cresting a steep eminence, enveloped with -trees, presented themselves; behind, the thick foliage of Chase Woods -closed the picture. The happiest gradation of tints, and the liveliest -blending of colours were here conspicuous. On the right hand we landed -on the shore, in order to make a minute investigation of the castle: it -is certainly a grand ruin, and stands on an eminence, naturally so steep -as to render it in former times capable of some resistance against a -formidable enemy. On our first entrance into the ruin we naturally -indulged reflections on past scenes, contemplated the traces of ancient -splendor; and, connecting what remains with what is destroyed, we -pondered on the vanity of human art and the ravages of time, which -exhibit in this ruin their completest triumph. The warrior who strove to -preserve its original grandeur against the attacks of Cromwell is buried -in Walford Church, situated on the opposite side of the river, and seen -from the castle. The different parts of the building bear evident marks -of its having been erected at various times: from a seat in the -castle-yard is the most advantageous spot for surveying, in one view, the -whole of this ruin: {310} an octagon pillar of light and elegant -workmanship, is seen to great advantage through the gateway, and adds -considerably to the magnificence of this ancient pile: it now belongs to -Dr. Griffin, of Hadnock, the lord of the manor. - -To return to our boat, we took a different and more circuitous route, for -the purpose of inspecting the remains of Goodrich Priory, now converted -into a farm. The chapel has experienced the same vicissitude; and those -walls, which formerly re-echoed with the chanting of voices and the -solemn peal, now repeat the continued strokes of the flail. In many -parts of the walls the initials of names of persons who have long since -paid the debt of nature, and left behind no other memorial, are carved -with characteristic rudeness, showing to every passing stranger the -prevalency of that universal passion—the love of fame. The Gothic -windows, and the cross erected on each end of the building, show evident -marks of its former purpose. The boat usually meets the passengers at -another reach of the river; but it is a plan by no means to be -recommended; since by missing a circuit round the castle, its different -tints and variety of attitudes, occasioned by one of the boldest sweeps -of the Wye, are entirely lost. A short time after we had taken our last -retrospect of Goodrich Castle, the spire of Ruredean Church {311} -appeared in front, just peeping from among the woody skirts of the forest -of Dean; a little below Courtfield House, belonging to Mr. Vaughan, was -seen in a very picturesque point of view, with the ruins of the chapel, -forming the back-ground. In Courtfield House, tradition reports, the -warlike King Henry the Fifth was nursed; and in the church of Welsh -Bicknor, situated to the right in a noble amphitheatre enclosed with -rocks, first embraced the Christian religion. - -A busy scene of craft loading and unloading, and coals shipping for -various parts from the quay at Lidbrook, presents a picture of cheerful -activity, and forms a pleasing contrast to the quiet, rich, and retired -spots we had left behind us: such spots as were well adapted to form the -mind of Britain’s glory—the virtuous Henry. The banks now became richly -clothed with wood, from the summits of the highest rocks to the water’s -edge; and a hill in front, called Rosemary Topping, from the mellow -luxuriance of its sides, closed the prospect. Almost every sweep -presents a new object to strike the admiration of the spectator; the -transitions are sudden, but never so harsh as to disgust. Even the -contrast between the embellishments of art we had just left, and the wild -rocks which here exhibit nature in her most striking attitudes, gave an -additional impression to each other. - -We now reached the fine mass of rocks called Coldwell, one of which, -Symond’s Yacht to the left, it is customary for company to ascend, in -order to view the mazy and circuitous course of the river, and the -extensive prospect around. The forest of Dean, the counties of Monmouth, -Hereford, and Gloucester, were extended before us, studded with villages, -diversified with clusters of half-visible farm-houses; with many a grey -steeple, “embosomed high in tufted trees.” In painting the several views -from this summit the happiest description would fail; the impression can -only be conveyed by the eye. The river here makes a most extraordinary -winding round the promontory; and having completed a circuit of more than -five miles, flows a second time immediately under Symond’s Yatch. {312} -The whole of this mazy course may be traced from this eminence. From -hence we discovered a very remarkable polysyllabical articulate echo, and -we reckoned twelve distinct reverberations from the explosion of a gun -fired on this spot. It is here again customary for the boatmen to impose -on strangers, and if they can prevail on them, during their walk to -Symond’s Yacht, will take the boat round the circuit of five miles, and -meet them at New Weir, in order that no time should be lost; but this -laziness we by no means encouraged; and the whole course of this -extraordinary and romantic sweep proved highly gratifying. Goodrich -Spire, which we again wound round, presented itself: huge fragments of -massy rocks which have rolled down from the precipices opposite Manuck -Farm, here almost choked up the course of the stream. The changing -attitudes and various hues of Symond’s Yacht, lifting its almost spiral -head high above the other rocks, as we receded and drew near it, supplied -a combination of tints surprisingly gay and beautiful; and having -accomplished a sweep of five miles, we reached, within a quarter of a -mile, the spot where we began our ascent to this steep eminence. - -The view of New Weir next unfolded itself; but a disagreeable scene here -generally occurs, and interrupts the pleasure of contemplation: a large -assemblage of beggars, men, women, and children, on the banks, -bare-footed and scarcely a rag to cover them, followed our boat, -imploring charity; and several almost throwing themselves into the water, -to catch your money, which every now and then the bigger seize from the -less. - -But I have omitted to mention, that before we reached the New Weir, the -spire of Haunton on Wye, cresting a hill at the extremity of a long -reach, and a fantastic barren rock, jutting out from the green foliage -which encircles it, presenting itself bold and conspicuous, formed -prominent and interesting features in the landscape; this is called -Bearcroft, receiving its appellation from the very respectable and -learned counsellor of that name. Several rocks, indeed, particularly in -this part of the river, are named by the counsel, who have long made it a -practice of exploring the rich and bold scenery of the Wye on their -assize circuit. Gilpin, considering New Weir as the second grand scene -on the Wye, thus describes it: - -“The river is wider than usual in this part, and takes a sweep round a -towering promontory of rock, which forms the side screen on the left, and -is the grand feature of the view. On the right side of the river the -bank forms a woody amphitheatre, following the course of the stream round -the promontory: its lower skirts are adorned with a hamlet, in the midst -of which volumes of thick smoke thrown up at intervals from an iron -forge, as its fires receive fresh fuel, add double grandeur to the scene. -But what peculiarly marks this view is a circumstance on the water: the -whole river at this place makes a precipitate fall, of no great height, -indeed, but enough to merit the name of a cascade, though to the eye -above the stream it is an object of no consequence. In all the scenes we -had yet passed, the water moving with a slow and solemn pace, the objects -around kept time, as it were, with it; and every steep and every rock -which hung over the river was solemn, tranquil, and majestic. But here -the violence of the stream and the roaring of the waters impressed a new -character on the scene: all was agitation and uproar; and every steep and -every rock stared with wildness and terror.”—The accuracy and elegance of -this description, drawn by so masterly a pen, I hope will amply -compensate for the length of this quotation. The extensive iron works -mentioned in this passage belong to Mr. Partridge. - -Below the New Weir a continuation of the same rich scenery still arrested -our attention, and rocks and wood seemed to contend which should be most -conspicuous; till the winding of the river round Doward’s Rock, on which -was formerly a Roman station, brought us under the house of Mr. Hatley, -which commands a view of the river as far as Monmouth, when it is -terminated by the town and bridge of six arches. As we drew near - - - -MONMOUTH, - - -the house of Dr. Griffin, situated on an eminence, and a banqueting-room -erected by the inhabitants of the place, appeared above the town on the -left. - -The town of Monmouth lies too low to form a grand appearance from the -water, but is, in itself, neat and well-built, and pleasantly situated on -the banks of the Wye. As we repaired to our inn, we were both -involuntarily led to take a retrospect of the past amusements of the day. -The partial gleams of sunshine had given additional tints to the rich and -bold scenery, and every thing had conspired to render it a most -interesting aquatic excursion. The variety of scenes which Claude would -have selected, had he now existed, for his canvass; with rapture, too, -would he have caught the tints, and with the happiest effect combined the -objects into a picture; kept up our attention, and removed that sameness -which too often accompanies water excursions. Such has been the pleasure -of our first day’s water expedition; and from the impression it made on -us we eagerly looked forward to some future period when we may again -retrace views which memory will ever hold dear, and the pleasure be then -redoubled with the remembrance of past occurrences. - -Opposite the Beaufort Arms, the most convenient inn in the town, is the -town-house, handsomely built, with a full-length statue on the outside, -facing the street, with this inscription under it: “Henry the Fifth, born -at Monmouth, August the ninth, 1387.” On the birth of this warlike and -virtuous prince, the charter was granted to the town of Monmouth; it is -governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, fifteen aldermen, nine constables, two -serjeants, and two beadles. The castle now bears few vestiges of its -former grandeur; and of the regal dome scarcely a wreck has escaped, -through the long lapse of years, and the ravages of time: where a mighty -king once gave audience, and where vassals knelt, now assemble the -animate appendages of a farm-yard. - -Near the castle is a very antiquated house, now converted into a school, -the property of the Duke of Beaufort. To this town Wihenoc de Monemue, -or Monmouth, in the reign of Henry the First, brought over a convent of -Black Monks from St. Florence, and placed them first in the church of St. -Cadoc near the castle, and after in the church of St. Mary. It was among -other ancient priories seized by the crown during the wars with France, -but was restored again, made denison, and continued till the general -suppression in the reign of King Henry the Eighth. {317} From hence we -walked to the church-yard; close to which is the room where Geoffery of -Monmouth composed his well-known history: this is now a day-school. -Monmouth has likewise to boast of a free-school founded here from the -following curious circumstance; Mr. Jones, a native of Newland, being in -distress, left this parish, and went to London, where he engaged himself -as servant to a Hamburgh merchant, and proving trusty in his office, he -was by degrees advanced, till at length he attained a fortune of his own. -Willing to prove how far the charity of his native place would extend -towards him, in disguise he applied for that relief which he was enabled -to show towards others; but his parish taking no notice of him, referred -him to Monmouth, and would not redress his pretended complaints; the -latter, however, being more charitably disposed, relieved him according -to his wishes. Having thus proved their generosity, he acquainted them -of his real situation, and promised to repay their kindness by obliging -them in any demand they should request. On this they solicited the -foundation of a free-school, which he immediately built, liberally -endowed, and which, from that time, has been well supported. The walk to -the Folly, we were informed, would have afforded us some beautiful and -extensive prospects; the whole of which information we should probably -have found true, but the evening closing, we were very reluctantly -necessitated to return to our inn. - -Early in the morning we renewed our survey of Monmouth. The church first -demanded notice: it is a handsome structure, but the inside offers -nothing remarkable for the inspection of the antiquary. The gaol, built -after the plan of the benevolent Howard, is situated in a healthy spot; -and in every respect rendered as commodious and comfortable as such a -place will allow for the unfortunate inhabitants. Monmouth, indeed, -contains several good houses, and the neighbourhood is respectable. A -bridge at the extremity of the town, with the ancient gateway, bears -every mark of antiquity. - -The hire of a boat from Monmouth to Chepstow is on the same plan as from -Ross to Monmouth, the distance being nearly equal. Nothing now remained -but to recommence our water excursion; and we accordingly embarked a -quarter of a mile below the town, where the river Monnow joins itself -with the Wye; from hence Monnow-mouth, or Monmouth. The weather still -continued favourable for our schemes: the banks on the left were at first -low, but as we receded from the town, the spire of Monmouth in the -retrospect, with the Kymin Woods rising from a rock of great height on -our left, under which the river meanders, and to our right Pen-y-vall -Hill engaged our attention, and was the bold and rich scenery we enjoyed -on our first re-embarkation. - -The same scenery of rock, wood, and water, which so captivated us on the -preceding day, still continued, occasionally diversified by light vessels -skimming by our boat, and increasing in number as we approached nearer -the sea. The rude hail of the boatmen as they passed, was re-echoed by -the rocks; and the dingy white sails of the vessels, which soon -disappeared round some bold promontory, were particularly picturesque. -Coleman’s Rocks appeared alternately mantled with underwood and pointed -crags; large fragments scattered in the river here divide the counties of -Monmouth and Gloucester. At Redbrook Hills, the curling smoke issuing -from the iron-works formed a pleasing accompaniment to the scenery, and -the whole exhibited a picture of industrious labour. These works belong -to Mr. Turner: the wood and meadow-land of Whitebrook Hills were finely -contrasted with the busy scene at Redbrook. From hence a long reach, -with Fidenham Chase Hill, rising conspicuously in the front, brought us -to the village of - - - -LLANDOGO, - - -diversified with cottages from the base to the highest summit of the -sloping eminence. This village is about nine miles from Monmouth, and -arrests particular observation: here vessels of considerable burden were -loading with iron and other commodities for various ports. The -appearance of the river here changed; the translucent stream, which had -hitherto alternately reflected, as in a mirror, the awful projection of -the rocks, and the soft flowery verdure of its banks, was affected by the -influence of the tide, and rendered turbid and unpleasant to the sight. - -A turn of the river soon brought us to the village of - - - -TINTERN, - - -where we observed the ruins of a mansion, belonging to Mr. Farmer of -Monmouth. This house appears of an old date, and might probably claim -the attention of the curious antiquary, was he not so wrapt up in -contemplating the venerable abbey, which presents its Gothic pile in -solemn majesty. This august building, great in ruins, and awfully grand -in appearance, impels the stranger, as it were imperceptibly, to land and -inspect its noble arches, tottering pillars, and highly-finished windows: -the specimens of ancient architecture, which formerly were delicately -wrought by the hand of art, are now finely decked by that of nature. On -our first entrance our attention was too much engrossed to exchange the -mutual communication of thought; but the care which has been officiously -taken to remove every fragment lying scattered through the immense area -of the fabric, and the smoothness of the shorn grass, which no scythe -should have dared to clip, in a great measure perverts the character of -the scene: these circumstances but ill accord with the mutilated walls of -an ancient ruin, which has braved the pitiless storms of so many -centuries. In this respect we by no means agreed with Mr. Gilpin, who -thus describes it: “We excuse—perhaps we approve—the neatness that is -introduced within. It may add to the beauty of the scene—to its novelty -it undoubtedly does.” But when this disgust was a little abated, we -indulged those reflections which scenes of ancient grandeur naturally -recall. - -This beautiful ruin is cruciform, measuring two hundred and thirty feet -in length, and thirty-three in breadth; the transept is one hundred and -sixty feet long. {321} This Cistertian Abbey was founded by Walter de -Clare, in the year 1131, and dedicated to St. Mary in the reign of King -Henry VIII. It experienced the same fate with many other monasteries, -and was granted at its dissolution to the Earl of Worcester in the year -1537. - -“As the Abbey of Tintern,” says the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, -and Sublimities of Nature, “is the most beautiful and picturesque of all -our Gothic monuments, so is the situation one of the most sequestered and -delightful. One more abounding in that peculiar kind of scenery, which -excites the mingled sensations of content, religion, and enthusiasm, it -is impossible to behold. There every arch infuses a solemn energy, as it -were, into inanimate nature: a sublime antiquity breathes mildly into the -heart; and the soul, pure and passionless, appears susceptible of that -state of tranquillity, which is the perfection of every earthly wish. -Never has Colonna wandered among the woods, surrounding this venerable -ruin, standing on the banks of a river, almost as sacred to the -imagination as the spot, where the Cephisus and the Ilyssus mingle their -waters, but he has wished himself a landscape-painter. He has never sat -upon its broken columns and beheld its mutilated fragments; and its -waving arches and pillars decorated with festoons of ivy; but he has -formed the wish to forsake the world, and resign himself entirely to the -tranquil studies of philosophy. Is there a man, my Lelius, too rich, too -great, too powerful, for these emotions? Is there one too ignorant, too -vain, and too presumptuous, to indulge them? Envy him not! From him the -pillars of Palmyra would not draw one sigh; the massacre of Glencoe, the -matins of Moscow, or the Sicilian vespers, would elicit no tear.” - -As we receded from the banks, Tintern Abbey, with the Gothic fret-work of -the eastern window, seemingly bound together by the treillage of ivy, -appeared in the most pleasing point of view; sloping hills and rich woods -forming a fine back-ground. As we drew nearer - - - -CHEPSTOW, - - -some most noble rocks, “Nature’s proud bastions,” opened upon us to the -left, grander than any we had hitherto admired, and which we had -previously determined were inconceivably fine, and surpassed any idea we -had formed of the channel of this romantic river. To add to the -magnificence of the whole, the setting sun tinged the rocks with the most -resplendent colours, and the dewy freshness of the evening improved the -charm of the scene; the one enchanting the sense, the other refreshing -it. The lofty Wynd Cliff to the right; and Piercefield, with the curious -projecting rocks, called the Twelve Apostles and Peter’s Thumb, heighten, -to the very extent of beauty, this noble view; gratifying beyond measure -to the admirer of nature. Another reach brought us in sight of Chepstow -Castle, on a prominent rock, of which it seemed to form a part; noble in -situation, and grand in appearance. The handsome new bridge, the rocks, -and the scarce visible town, here made a most charming picture: this we -enjoyed exceedingly, but regretted a few more minutes would set us on -shore, and conclude our excursion on the Wye; an excursion, which, the -farther we proceeded the more we were interested; and so much so, as to -determine a renewal of this pleasing tour another summer. The former -wooden bridge over the Wye at this place was of very singular -construction; the boards forming the flooring were all designedly loose, -but prevented by pegs, fastened at the extremities of them, from being -carried away by the tide, and by that ingenious contrivance they -gradually rose and fell with it. The tide is here frequently known to -rise to the extraordinary height of seventy feet. - -Not having visited the church in consequence of the bad weather at the -commencement of our tour, we determined now to inspect it. The entrance -through the western door is an elegant specimen of Saxon architecture, -richly wrought, with three arches; in the inside is the monument of Henry -Marten, one of the regicides who presided at the condemnation of King -Charles I., and was confined in the castle twenty years. It contains -also a cenotaph to the memory of the Marquis of Worcester, and a tomb -dated 1620, to the memory of Mrs. Clayton and her two husbands, who are -both represented as kneeling. This church originally belonged to the -alien Benedictine priory of Strigule, but was converted at the -Reformation into the parish church of Chepstow. - -Admittance to the celebrated walks of Piercefield can only be obtained on -Tuesdays and Fridays. To survey these with that attention which they -deserve, would occupy several hours; the liveliest description cannot do -justice to the rich and bold scenery, with all its accompaniments; the -eye can alone receive the impression; for, - - “How long soe’er the wand’rer roves, each step - Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents - A diff’rent picture; new, and yet the same.” - -“The winding of the precipice,” says Gilpin, “is the magical secret by -which all these enchanting scenes are produced.” At one point, both -above and below, as far as the eye can reach, rolls in majestic windings -the river Wye: at another, the Severn, hastening to meet “its sister -river,” is discovered, till at last they are both lost in the Bristol -Channel: at another, these scenes are concealed, and thick woods, -apparently coeval with time itself, and a long range of rock, burst upon -“the wanderer” with irresistible beauty and attraction. The occasional -recurrence also of the rude beach, overshadowed by some umbrageous tree, -and concealed from the steep precipice below by thick underwood, allow -only glimpses of the surrounding scenery. - - * * * * * - -I have thus brought my tour to a conclusion; a tour, which has been -productive of much amusement, and, I hope, not entirely devoid of -advantage. It only remains, therefore, for me to add, that the two -friends, having completed a pedestrian circuit of near eight hundred -miles, parted with mutual regret, jointly exclaiming, - - “Cambria, as thy romantic vales we leave, - And bid farewell to each retiring hill, - Where fond attention seems to linger still, - Tracing the broad bright landscape; much we grieve - That mingled with the toiling crowd, no more - We may return thy varied views to mark.” - - - - -SONNETS. - - -SONNET I. TO FRIENDSHIP. - - -ADDRESSED TO THE COMPANION OF MY TOUR. - - O balmy comfort through this varied maze - Of life! thou best physician to the breast, - With deep affliction’s venom’d sting opprest, - A thousand arts, a thousand winning ways - Are thine, to smooth the rugged brow of care, - And mitigate misfortune’s keenest hour: - Yes, A. . . ., partner of my Cambrian Tour, - Friend of my heart, how gladly do I share - Thy confidence; whate’er my part may be - Hereafter, on this shifting stage of life, - This busy theatre of jarring strife, - May health and happiness attend both thee - And thine!—on One, thy heavenly Guardian, trust, - Nor doubt protection—all His ways are just. - - - -SONNET II. -THE CONTRAST OF YESTERDAY AND TO-DAY. - - -SUPPOSED TO BE WRITTEN ON THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON. - - How gay was yesterday!—no storm was heard - To mutter round thy steep—yon sun arose - With golden splendour, and in still repose - Nature majestic through her works appear’d. - To-day how changed—loud howls the hollow blast! - The thin mists undulate! thy towering height - Is veil’d in tempest and eternal night! - So ’tis with man! contrasting prospects past - With dreams of future happiness—to-day - In gallant trim his little bark may glide - On the smooth current of the tranquil tide: - To-morrow comes!—the gathering storms display - A sad vicissitude—the whirlwind’s sweep - Grasps at its prey, and whelms it in the deep. - - - -SONNET III. -ON LEAVING WALES. - - - Why bursts the tear, as, Cambria, now I leave - Thy wild variety of dale and hill, - Where fancy, fond intruder, lingers still? - Why do these parting sighs my bosom heave? - ’Tis that, alas! I ne’er may view again - Those haunts, those solitary scenes I love; - But through this vale of tears forsaken rove, - And taste the sad vicissitudes of pain: - ’Tis that I sadly breathe a warm adieu - To long-lost scenes of mutual amity; - ’Tis that I turn, my absent friend, to thee, - “Think on past pleasures, and solicit new!” - For thee my fervent prayers to heaven ascend, - And may we meet again as friend to friend. - - - -SONNET IV. -TO THE WELSH HARP. - - - Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds, - Those plaintive airs, that through my senses steal - With melancholy sweet. Their pow’r I feel - Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds. - Gently thou lull’st my sufferings to repose, - Inclin’st my heart to every virtuous deed; - Removing from my mind each dark’ning shade - That clouds my days, increasing all my woes. - Now swelling with the breeze, along thy vales, - Romantic Cambria! the strain I hear, - Then dying soft away, comes o’er my ear - In whispers soft, still wafted by thy gales! - Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds, - Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds. - - - -SONNET V. - - -SUPPOSED TO BE WRITTEN BY MOON-LIGHT, ON THE SEA-SHORE AT TENBY. - - I love to mark the silver-curling spray - Just kiss the pebbled shore; the zephyr blows, - And ocean slumbers in serene repose; - While the moon’s beams in quiv’ring radiance play - Upon its surface: yet ere long, that tide - May heave its foaming billows to the shore, - And the sea boil in one tempestuous roar. - See here thy picture, man! reason, thy guide, - Can lull each gust of passion into rest! - Her aid divine, her energy once lost, - In what a sea of angry tumults tost, - Raves the mad whirlwind of thy troubled breast! - Blind passion then can reason’s aid refute, - And degradate the man to worse than brute. - - - -SONNET VI. -ON SEEING LLANGOLLEN VALE. - - - O thou, too captious of each airy scheme, - Fancy! thou dear delusive traitor, say, - Are not thy charms the phantoms of a day, - That mock possession, like a fleeting dream? - Here could I spend, if such had been my lot, - Quiet my life; nor should the shiv’ring poor - Depart unfed, unaided, from my door. - “Content is wealth,” the emblem of my cot. - Here, by the brook, that gently babbles by, - Should stand my garden; there, the blushing rose - And woodbine should their sweetest scent disclose. - But ah! farewell these dreams;—my big full eye - Swells with the bursting tear—I think, how few - The road to real happiness pursue! - - - -SONNET VII. -PROSPECT OF SUN-RISE FROM SNOWDON. - - - How grand the scene from this stupendous height! - How awfully sublime! the king of day - Flames in the east; old Ocean’s waves display - One globe of fire! one boundless flood of light! - With what unclouded lustre blaze the skies! - While Mona’s flats tinged with a golden hue, - Burst with transcendant beauty on the view; - And, Man, {333} thy scarce seen mountains proudly rise. - Nature beneath seems prostrate; and my sight - Can hardly grasp the vast immensity! - Can then the muse attempt to sing of thee, - Nature’s great God! Father of life and light! - Who bade the sun his annual circle roll, - Who guides, directs, and animates the whole. - - - -SONNET VIII. -TO MY DOG. - - - Yes, thou hast been companion of my Tour, - And partner of my toils! hast rov’d with me - Through Cambria’s rude and wild variety, - And often sooth’d the solitary hour - With thy caresses: yet false man can claim - Superior reason, claim a mind endued - With love, with faithfulness and gratitude; - Love a mere sound, and gratitude a name. - Yes, faithful creature! and when thou art gone, - With fond attention shall thy bones be laid; - And a small tribute to thy memory paid - In these few words, engraven on thy stone: - “Here let in peace the faithful Sylvio lie, - The truest picture of fidelity.” - - - - -_CHART TO THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST._ - -Best Inns. Counties. Miles. Route. Objects most Page. - worthy of - Attention— - Rivers and - noted Bridges. -Star, Angel, King’s Oxford Oxford Halls, 1 -Arms, and Roebuck Colleges, and - Libraries, - Heythrop (Earl - of Shrewsbury), - Nuneham - Courtney (Earl - Harcourt), - Blenheim -Plough, Fleece, and Gloucester 40 Cheltenham Pump Rooms and 6 -George Hotel Walks, Rooms, - seat of Earl of - Fauconberg, - Cleavehill, - Dowdeswell, &c. - &c. -Hop Pole, Star and 9 Tewkesbury Cathedral 9 -Garter -Bell, Booth-Hall, 10½ Gloucester Ditto, Pin 11 -King’s Head Manufactory, - Isle of Alney, - Gaol, Severn, - Drawbridge, - called Westgate -Bush, Full Moon, 34 Bristol Ditto, St. Mary 13 -Talbot, &c. &c. Redcliffe - Church, St. - Vincent’s Rocks - and Clifton, - King’s Weston, - and Lord de - Clifford’s, - Lamplighters’ - Hall, and - King’s Road -Bear 12 Newnham Garden Cliff at 23 - Westbury, - Flaxley Abbey, - Churchyard, - View from -White Swan 7 Lidney Iron-works, 25 - Pitchcock’s -Beaufort Arms, Three Monmouth 8 Chepstow Castle, Church, 25, 322 -Cranes Piercefield, - one mile from - Chepstow, - Llancaut - Cliffs, Wye, - and New Bridge -King’s Head, 16 Newport (Between C. and 28 -Westgate, and Parrot N. Caldecot - Castle, - Caerwent - Pavement, Ruins - of Caerleon), - Usk, New - Bridge, Castle - — Monmouth, 29 - Ragland Castle - and Church, - Usk, Llangibby - Castle, View, - Caerleon, St. - Julians -Angel, Cardiff Arms, Glamorgan 11¼ Cardiff Tredegar House, 34 -&c. boundary of - England and - Wales, Cardiff - Castle, Gaol, - Bridge, and - Taff - 3 Landaff Cathedral, St. 37 - Fajans -Boar’s Head 7 Caerphily Castle, Thorn 39 - Hill, and View -Treherne’s Hotel 17 Merthyr Vale of 41 - Glamorgan, - Pont-d-Pridd - Iron-works the - largest in the - kingdom -Angel 14 Pont Neath Falls of 47 - Vechan Scotenogarm, - Lower and Upper - Culliepste, - Lady’s Cascade, - Porthogo - Cavern, Bwr - Maen, Purthen - and Neath - Rivers -Ship and Castle 11 Neath (Between P. N. 50 - and Aberdulas - and Melincourt - Waterfalls, the - Knole) Abbey, - Castle, and - Copper-works -Mackworth Arms 9 Swansea (View at 53 - Britton Ferry,) - Castle, - Pottery, Tawe, - Harbour, and - Piers, New Walk - and Rooms -Pot-House 20 Cheriton Oystermouth 57 - Castle, Oxwich - Bay, Penrice, - King Arthur’s - Stone -Ditto Caermarthen 16 Kidwely Llanelly 59 - Church, Kidwely - Castle -Ivy Bush, Boar’s 10 Caermarthen Castle, Tin 60 -Head Works, Bridge - over the Towy -Castle 12¼ Llaugharne Llaugharne 67 - Castle, - Caermarthen Bay -Cobourg Hotel Pembroke 16 Tenby (Between L. and 68 - T. Green - Bridge, a - curious - excavation in - the Rock) - Castle, Church, - Rocks, Walls, - &c. -Green Dragon 10 Pembroke Castle, Bridge, 73 - sail round - Milford Haven, - to Hubberstone, - Tour by Mr. - Fenton, &c. &c. -Hotel 16 Milford Dock Yards, 82 - Observatory, - &c. -— Tenby 83 -Blue Boar, Castle 20 Haverfordwest Carew Castle, 87 - Cresseley, - Landshipping, - Picton Castle, - Slebitch and - Church, Priory - at the end of - the Parade -Black Lion 16 St. David’s (Between H. and 89 - R. Castle, St. - Bride’s Bay) - Cathedral, - Bishop’s - Palace; Rocking - Stone, two - miles from St. - David’s - 16 Fishguard In your way, 95 - take the place - where the - French landed, - Gwain River - 7 Newport Two miles from 97 - N. Druidical - Monuments -Black Lion Cardigan 11 Cardigan Velindre, Tin 100 - Works, - Kilgerran - Castle, River - Tyvi, Castle, - Church, St. - Doegmal’s Abbey -Good Accommodation 22 Aberaeron Druidical 101 - Monuments and - Castle -Talbot, Gogerthan 15 Aberystwith Fine Views, 102 -Arms Llanrysted, - Llanryan - Bridge, Castle, - and walk round, - Lead Mines -Havod Arms 12 Havod Devil’s Bridge, 112 - Fall of the - Rhyddol, of the - Mynach, Havod - House and - Grounds -Eagles Montgomery 27 Machynlleth Plinlimmon, 121 - source of the - Severn, &c. - Owen Glyndwr’s - Mansion, Dovey - River, Bridge -Blue Lion Merioneth 10 Talylyn (Between M. and 123 - T. Dyflas - River) Cader - Idris, Pool of - Three Grains -Lion, Ship, Angel 16 Dolgelly Beautiful 124 - situation, - Avon-vwar - River, - excursions to - the Vale of the - Dee, Caer Gai - at the end of - the Lake of - Bala, and Dinas - y Mowddwy -Corsy-Gedol Arms 8 Barmouth From D. to B. 134 - extremely - interesting, - pleasant walks - on the sands, - and likewise on - the hills over - the town -Inn 10 Harlech Castle, a 137 - golden Torques - dug up in 1682 - (between B. and - H. Corsy Gedol) - Barmouth By Dolgelly to 139 - Travellers’ - Rest, Fall of - Doly Melynllyn, - Ditto Cayne and - Moddach, Vale - of Festiniog - Merioneth 28 Tan-y-bwlch by Tan-y-bwlch 146 - Dolgelly and Hall, Vale of - Falls Festiniog, - River Dayryd, - Maentwrog, - Tremadoc - Caernarvon Criccaeth Tany-yr-alet, 149 - Castle, - excursion by - sea to the Isle - of Bardsey, - pass a Bay - called Hell’s - Mouth - Bardsey Fine view of 151 - the coast, - Abbot’s House - and Chapel -Crown and Anchor 45 Pwlheli About five 157 - miles from P. - Carn-Madryn, an - ancient - fortress -Goat, a good Inn 20 Beddgelert Several 164 - Cromlechs, - Penmorfa, - Tremadoc, and - embankments, - Morva Lodge, - Pont Aber - Glaslyn - 6 Snowdon Beddgelert 170 - Church and - Vale, V. of - Nanhwynan, and - Dinas Emrys, - Pass of - Drwsycoed, - ascent and view - from Snowdon -Anglesea Arms and 12 Caernarvon Vale of 185 -Goat Llanberries, - Dolbadern - Castle, Two - Lakes, Caunant - Mawr, and Caer - cwm-y Glô, - bridge over the - Seiont, Castle, - Chapel, ruins - of Segontium, - ancient Fort on - the Seiont, &c. - &c. - Anglesea 6 Plâs Newydd Fine view of 191 - the Menai, the - elegant new - mansion, - Cromlechs and - Carnedd, - Saunderson’s - Cottage -Penrhyn Arms, Caernarvon 4 Bangor, from P. Beautiful 199 -Castle, and Albion N. situation of, -Hotel Cathedral, view - from the - Church-yard, - recent - improvements, - Bridge over the - Menai, &c. -Bull’s Head Anglesea Beaumaris Fine views from 210 - the new road, - Castle, Church, - Baron Hill, the - Friars, - Priestholme - Island -Ty Mawr 16 Amlwch Dulas and Red 217 - Wharf Bay, - pretty village - and church of - Pentraeth, - Llanelian, - Pary’s Mountain -Eagle and Child and 20 Holyhead The Church, and 218 -Hibernian-Hotel walls of the - Church-yard, - new Pier, - cavern called - the Parliament - House. The - steam packets -Penrhyn Arms, Caernarvon 27 Bangor Excursion to 221 -Castle, and Albion Penrhyn Castle, -Hotel Slate Quarries, - Lime Grove, - Llandegai - Church, Ogwen - Bank, Benglog, - &c. about 20 - miles -Harp and Newborough 15 Conway (Aber and the 240 -Arms Lavan Sands, - Pen-maen-mawr,) - at Conway the - Castle, Plâs - Mawr, Abbey, - College - 40 Ditto Excursion to 244 - Caer Rhun, - Rhaiadar Mawr, - Llanrwst, Falls - of the Conway - and Machno, - about 40 miles -Bee Inn Denbigh 20 Abergele by the (Dinas Gonway, 250 - Cridden Gloddaith and - Bodysgallen, - the Orme’s - head, Gywddno’s - Weir, - Cavern-arago,) - Walk on the - sands -White Lion Flint 7 St. Asaph (Between A. and 252 - St. A. Rhuddlan - Marsh,) - Cathedral and - view from its - tower, Bishop’s - Palace and - Deanery -White Horse and 10 Holywell (Between St. A. 255 -King’s Arms and H. the - value of Clywd; - to the right a - Roman Pharos;) - St. Winifred’s - Well, various - Mills; one mile - and a quarter - north, Ruins of - Basing-werk - Abbey -Royal Oak 6 Flint Castle, Goal, 256 - and - Smelting-house, - (between F. and - Chester ruins - of Euloe Castle - and Hawarden - ditto) -Coach and Horses, Chester 15 Chester Castle, Walls, 258 -Hotel, Feathers, Hop Rows, Bishop’s -Pole, &c. &c. Palace, - Hypocaust, - Gaol, and near - C. Eaton Hall - and Park -Black Lion and Flint 11¾ Mold Church Ruins of 267 -Leeswood Arms the Castle, - Cotton Spinning - Mills, and near - M. the - Leeswoods and - famous Iron - Gates, Rhual -Crown and Black Bull Denbigh 16¼ Denbigh (From M. to D. 271 - visit Kilken - Church, Moel - Famma,) Castle - and fine view - of the Vale of - Clwyd, old - Church -Cross Keys, White 8 Ruthin (Between D. and 273 -Lion R. Well of St. - Dyfnog,) - Castle, Church, - Gaol, - Bowling-green, - Vale of Clwyd -Eagles, Red Lion 16 Wrexham Church, Offa’s 276 - Dyke, Erthig - the seat of P. - Yorke, Esq., - Church of - Marchwiel - 6 Ruabon Wynnstay Park, 280 - Obelisk, Offa’s - Dyke, (between - R. and - Llangollen, - Pontcyscylltir, - Aqueduct and - River Dee) -Hand, King’s Head 8 Llangollen Bridge over the 284 - Dee, Castle - Dinas Brân, - Lady E. - Butler’s - Cottage, Valle - Crucis Abbey, - Pillar of - Eliseg -Wynnstay Arms, Cross Salop 12 Oswestry (Between L. and 291 -Keys O. Chirk - Castle, - Aqueduct, - Whittington,) - Ruins of a - Chapel, Castle, - Church -Royal Oak, Bear Montgomery 15 Welsh Pool Between O. and 294 - W. Llanymynach - Hill, Breddin, - Rodney’s - Column, Virnwy - River, Powis - Castle -Dragon 8 Montgomery Between W. P. 295 - and M. fine - view from the - tower of - Cherbury - Church, Castle - and Gaol, - Ellesmere Canal -Castle 9 Bishop’s Castle Does not 296 - present any - thing to detain - the Traveller; - midway between - B. C. and L. is - an excellent - Inn -Crown, Angel Hereford 17 Ludlow Castle, Church, 297 - Cross, Walks - round the - Castle Walls, - Bridge, Teme - River -Red Lion, Crown, 11 Leominster Market House, 304 -King’s Arms Church -City Arms, Green 12 Hereford Cathedral, 305 -Dragon, &c. Castle, Walks, - Gaol, Wye, new - Market House -King’s Arms, King’s down the Wye. Ross Splendid 306 -Head monument in the - Church, View - from the - Prospect, - Wilton Castle, - and Bridge, Wye -Beaufort Arms, Monmouth Monmouth (Between Ross 316 -King’s Head and M. Goodrich - Castle, - Symond’s Yatch, - Courtfield - House, New - Wier,) Castle - Priory, Town - Hall, Walk to - Monmouth Folly, - Wye, Duke of - Beaufort’s -Beaufort Arms, Three 50 Chepstow Castle, Church, 322 -Cranes Piercefield, - one mile from - Chepstow, - Llancaut Cliff, - Wye, New - Bridge, between - M. and C. - Llandago, - Tintern Abbey, - Wyn Cliff, a - corruption from - Wye Cliff - -INDEX. - - -Aber, 232 - -Aberaeron, 101 - -Aber Garth Celyn, 233 - -Abergele, 250 - -Aberystwith, 102 - -Alney, Isle of, 13 - -Amlwch, 212, 217 - -Anglesea, or Mona, Isle of, 206 - -Avon, 19 - -Aust, or Old Passage, 22 - - * * * * * - -Bachegraig, 269 - -Bangor, 199 - -Bardsey, Isle of, 150 - -Barmouth, 134 - -Baron Hill, 210 - -Bearcroft Rock, 314 - -Beaumaris, 210 - -Beddgelert, 164 - -Benglog, Cataracts of, 227 - -Bishop’s Castle, 296 - -Blenheim, 5 - -Bodfari, 269 - -Bodscallan, 249 - -Bosherton Meer, 76 - -Brecon, 64 - -Breddin Hills and Column, 294 - -Bristol, 13 - -Britton Ferry, 52 - -Brynkir, 159 - -Bully Bear, 76 - -Burford, 6 - - * * * * * - -Cader Idris, 130 - -Caerleon, 27, 32 - -Caermarthen, 60, 66 - -Caernarvon, 185, 195 - -Caerphily, 39 - -Caer Rhun, or Canovium, 244 - -Caerwent, 27 - -Caerwys, 270 - -Caldecot Castle, 26 - -Cannant Mawr, Waterfall of, 184 - -Capel Curig, 226 - -Cardiff, 34 - -Cardigan, 100 - -Carew Castle, 72, 84 - -Carreg, 254 - -Castle Dinas Brân, or Crow Castle, 286 - -Castle Morlais, 46 - -Castleton, 75 - -Cayne, Falls of the, 141 - -Cheltenham, 6 - -Chepstow, 25, 322 - -Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur, 78 - -Cheriton, 57 - -Chester, 258 - -Chirk, 286, 289 - -Christchurch, 27 - -Clawdh Offa, or Offa’s Dyke, 281 - -Cleave Hill, 7 - -Clenenney, 159 - -Clifton, 20 - -Cold Blow, 66 - -Coldwell Rocks, 312 - -Coleman’s Rocks, 319 - -Conway, 240, 246 - -Courtfield House, 311 - -Cresseley, 85 - -Criccaeth, 149 - -Crickhowel, 63 - -Cridden, 248 - -Culhepste, Upper and Lower, 48 - -Cwmdu, 63 - -Cwmgu, 64 - -Cynvel, Pulpit of, 148 - -Cyttiau Gwyddelod, 238 - - * * * * * - -David’s, Saint, 89 - -Dee River, 281, 282, 283 - -Denbigh, 271 - -Devil’s Bridge, 107 - -Dinevawr, 65 - -Dolbadern Castle, 184 - -Dolgelly, 124 - -Dolwyddelan Castle, 159, 247 - -Dol-y-melynlln, 141 - -Dovey River, 122 - -Doward’s Rock, 315 - -Dowdeswell, 7 - -Downing, (Mr. Pennant’s) 254 - -Downton Castle, 304 - -Drwsycoed, Pass of, 169 - -Dwygyfchi, 237 - -Dyflas River, 122 - -Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, 248 - -Dynas Brân, 286 - - * * * * * - -Eaton Hall, 260 - -Eisteddfod, 270 - -Eryri, or Creigaúr Eryri, (Snowdoniana) description of, 178 - -Euloe Castle, 257 - - * * * * * - -Fauconberg, Earl of, the seat of, 7 - -Festiniog, Vale of, 146 - -Fidenham Chase Hill, 319 - -Fishguard, 95 - -Flaxley Abbey, 23 - -Flint, 256 - -Forest of Deane, 29, 312 - - * * * * * - -Glamorgan, Vale of, 40 - -Glocester, 11 - -Gloddaith, 249 - -Goodrich Castle, 311 - -Goodrich Priory, 310 - -Gored Wyddno, or Gywddno’s Weir, 248 - -Gosddinog, 235 - -Great Orme’s Head, 249 - -Green Bridge, 67 - -Grongar Hill, 66 - -Gwddu Glâs, 237 - -Gwydir House, 246 - -Gwyndy, 221 - - * * * * * - -Harlech, 136 - -Haverfordwest, 87 - -Havod, 112 - -Haunton-on-Wye, 314 - -Hawarden Castle, 257 - -Hênllan, 75 - -Heythrop, 5 - -Hereford, 305 - -Holyhead, 218 - -Holywell, 253 - -Hubberston, 81, 136 - - * * * * * - -Iestingtown, or Iseton, 75 - - * * * * * - -Kidwelly, 59 - -Kilgerran Castle, 97 - -Kilken, the Church of, 268 - -King John, cruelty of, to the Jews, 15 - -King’s Weston, 20 - -Knole Castle, 50 - -Kymin Woods, 319 - -Kymmer Abbey, 133 - - * * * * * - -Landshipping, 85 - -Lantphey Castle, 73 - -Leeswood, 267 - -Leominster, 304 - -Lidbrook Quay, 311 - -Lidney, 25 - -Linney Point, 76 - -Llanarth, 101 - -Llanbadem Vawr, 107 - -Llanbeblic, 188 - -Llanberris, Vale of, 177, 184 - -Llandaff, 37 - -Llandogo, 320 - -Llandegai, 225 - -Llandovery, 64 - -Llandudno, 250 - -Llanelian, 214 - -Llanelly, 59 - -Llanettyd, 133 - -Llanfair, 213 - -Llanfairfechin, 240 - -Llangoed, 236 - -Llangollen, 284 - -Llanruth, 274 - -Llanstaphan Castle, 66 - -Llanstundwy, 157 - -Llanwrst, 246 - -Llanymynach, 292 - -Llaugharne, 67 - -Llewini Hall, 271 - -Llyn Ogwen, 229 - -Loughor, 59 - -Ludlow, 297 - -Lysdin, 159 - - * * * * * - -Machynlleth, 121 - -Maenwrog, 146 - -Maen y Campiau, 238 - -Maes Garmon, 268 - -Malvern Hills, 11 - -Mannorbeer Castle, 72 - -Manuck Farm, 313 - -March Wiel, 278 - -Mawddach, River and Fall of, 141 - -Menai, straits of, and ferries over, 187, 191, 192 - -—, bridge over, description of, 202 - -Merion Court, 76 - -Merthyr Tydvil, 42 - -Milford and Haven, 80, 82 - -Moel Arthur, 269 - -Moel Famma and Column, 268 - -Mold, 267 - -Mona, or Anglesea, 206 - -Monkton, 75 - -Monmouth, 29, 316 - -Monnow River, 319 - -Montgomery, 233, 295 - -Mumbles, 56 - -Mynach, Falls of, 108, 109 - -—, bridge over the, or Devil’s Bridge, 107, 108 - -Mynydd Caer Leon, 244 - - * * * * * - -Nangle, Bay of, and Village, 75 - -Nanhwynan, Vale of, 169 - -Nanlley, Lake of, 169 - -Nanneau Park, 133 - -Nant, Ffrancon, 227, 229 - -Natives of Eryri, 178 - -—, Courtships, Marriages, &c. of, 180 - -—, modes of burying, 182 - -Neath, 50 - -Nevin, 189 - -Newgin, 88 - -Newnham, 25 - -New Passage, 22 - -Newport (Monmouth) 28, 34 - -Newport (Pembrokeshire) 97 - -New Wier, 313, 314 - -Northleach, 6 - -Northop, 257 - -Nuneham Courtney, 5 - - * * * * * - -Oakley Park, 298, 303 - -Offa’s Dyke, 281 - -Ogwen, 226 - -—, Bank and River, 226 - -Orielton, 75 - -Oswestry, 291 - -Oxford, 1 - -Oxwich Bay, 57 - -Oystermouth Castle, 56 - - * * * * * - -Pary’s, or Paris Mountain, 209, 217 - -Pembroke, 73 - -Penbedw Hall, 269 - -Pendyffryn, 239 - -Pen-mawn-mawr, 235 - -Penmorfa, 160 - -Pennard, 57 - -Penpold, (pleasure-house,) fine view from, 21 - -Penrhyn Castle, 222 - -Penrice, 57 - -Pentraeth, 212 - -Pen-y Vall Hill, 319 - -Peter’s Thumb, 323 - -Picton Castle, 85 - -Piercefield, 324 - -Pistyll y Cayne, 143 - -Plâs Gwynn, 212 - -Plâs Newydd, 191 - -Plinlimmon, 119 - -Plymouth Works, 42 - -Pont-Aber-Glaslyn, 148, 163 - -Pontcysyllty Aqueduct, 281, 289 - -Pont Neath Vechan, 47 - -Pont y Prid, 41 - -Porthogo Cavern, 49 - -Powis Castle, 295 - -Priory Pill, 83 - -Prospect, view from the, 307 - -Pwllheli, 157 - -Pystyll Rhaiadr, 292 - - * * * * * - -Ragland Castle, 29 - -Ramsey Isle, 95 - -Redbrook Hills and Ironworks, 319 - -Red Wharf Bay, 212 - -Rhaiadr-du, 147 - -Rhaiadr Mawr, 245 - -Rhaiadr y Mawdach, 142 - -Rhôscrowther, 75 - -Rhuabon, 280 - -Rhual, 268 - -Rhuddlan, 251 - -Rhyddol, Vale of, and River, 103 - -Roach Castle, 89 - -Ross, 306 - -Ruredean Church, 311 - -Ruthin, 273 - - * * * * * - -St. Asaph, 252 - -St. Briaval’s, 29 - -St. Bride’s Bay, 89 - -St. Clear’s, 66 - -St. David’s, 89 - -St. Degmen’s Well, 75 - -St. Dogmael’s Abbey, 101 - -St. Fynnon, St. Dyfnog, 273 - -St. Govan’s Chapel and Well, 76, 79 - -St. Julian’s, 33 - -St. Petrocks, 79 - -St. Stinan’s, or St. Justinian’s Chapel, 95 - -Segontium, 190 - -Seint, River and Fort of the, 190 - -Shirehampton, 21 - -Slebech, 87 - -Snowdon, 170 - -Solva, 89 - -Stackpool Court, 77 - -— Elidur, 79 - -Stretllan, 292 - -Swansea, 53 - -Sychnant, 236 - -Symond’s Yatch, 313 - - * * * * * - -Taff River, 40 - -Taliesin, 249 - -Talylyn, 123 - -Tannad River, 292 - -Tan y Bwlch, 146 - -Tenby, 68 - -Tewkesbury, 9 - -Tintern and Tintern Abbey, 320 - -Tower, 267 - -Towy River, 63 - -Traeth Mawr, 161 - -Trecastle, 64 - -Trefan Hall, 157 - -Tremadoc, 148, 162 - -Tredegar House, 34 - -Twelve Apostles’ Rocks, 323 - -Tynymaes, 227 - -Tyvi River, 98 - - * * * * * - -Vale of Clwyd, 253, 271, 272 - -— Conway, 246 - -— Festiniog, 146 - -— Glamorgan, 40 - -— Llangollen, 285 - -— the Severn, 294 - -Valle Crucis Abbey, 288 - -Velindre, 97 - -Victoria Alleluiatica, 268 - -Virnway River, 292 - - * * * * * - -Upton, 11 - -Usk, 31 - - * * * * * - -Walford Church, 310 - -Welsh, or British Games, 238 - -Welsh Pool, 294 - -Westbury, 23 - -Wilton Castle and Bridge, 305, 307 - -Witney, 6 - -Woodstock, 6 - -Worm’s Head, 58 - -Whitebrook Hills, 319 - -Whittington, 291 - -Wrexham, 276 - -Wye River, 307, 308, 309 - -Wynd Cliff, 323 - -Wynnstay Park, 280 - -Ynys-halen, 220 - - * * * * * - -Y-Trivaen, 228 - - * * * * * - - THE END. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - GILBERT & RIVINGTON, Printers, St. John’s Square. - - - - -FOOTNOTES. - - -{0} For much of the present essay I am indebted to the following -works:—Commentarioli Britanniæ descriptionis fragmentum, Auctore Humfredo -Llwyd; Powel’s History of Wales; Edward Llwyd’s Notes, in Gibson’s -edition of Camden’s Britannica; Rowland’s Mona Antiqua Restaurata; -Stukeley’s Medallic History; the Preface to Owen’s Translation of the -Elegies of Llywarch Hen; Jones’s Musical and Poetical Relics of the Welsh -Bards; the Monthly Magazine, and the first and second volumes of the -Cambrian Register. - -{25} Atkins’s Gloucestershire. - -{26} Grose’s Antiquities. - -{27} Warner’s First Walk through Wales. - -{28} He was buried in the cathedral church of St. David, and many -hundred years after canonized by Pope Calistus II.—Godwin’s English -Bishops, p. 414. - -{38a} Willis’s Llandaff, p. 34. - -{38b} Grose—Willis. - -{50} Vol. ii. p. 92. - -{57a} Pennarth, eight miles south-west of Swansea. - -{57b} From the Welsh Pen Rhys. - -{58} William of Malmesbury, p. 158. - -{72a} Famous as being the birth-place of Sylvester Giraldus de Barri -(more generally known as Giraldus Cambrensis), nephew of David -Fitzgerald, Bishop of St. David’s; to which see Giraldus himself aspired. -He was twice elected to it by the chapter, but never attained that -dignity, although he had refused, in such expectation, three or four -bishoprics, as well as the archbishopric of Cashel. Acting as legate to -the Archbishop of Canterbury in Wales, he evinced great spirit in -correcting numerous abuses which had crept into the church in that -principality. The great credit which he derived from these spirited -exertions was greatly added to by the many valuable works he bequeathed -to posterity, the merits of which have been recently revived under the -fostering auspices of Sir Richard C. Hoare, Bart., who has enhanced the -value and interest of his translation of the Itinerary of Giraldus by -illustrations derived from his own pencil. Seventeen years before his -death he resigned all his ecclesiastical preferments, giving himself up -to his studies: he died in the 74th year of his age, at St. David’s, -where his monument is still remaining. - -{72b} The pedestrian will not possibly find time to examine the ruins of -Carew Castle in this day’s route, but will find it more convenient to -visit it in his way from Tenby to Haverfordwest. - -{80a} The price for two oars seven shillings and sixpence; and twelve -shillings and sixpence for four oars. - -{80b} Wyndham’s Tour through Monmouthshire and Wales. - -{80c} Philosophical Survey of Ireland. - -{88a} “This castle (says an eminent author) is said to have been built -by Gilbert, Earl of Clare, who lived in the reign of King Stephen; and -Camden reports, that Richard, Earl of Clare, made Richard Fitz-Tancred -governor thereof. It was one of those in the hands of the Flemings, when -they first came into Dyvet, or Pembrokeshire.” - -{88b} These lines were frequently repeated by Dr. Johnson, whose -partiality to inns is well known. - -{90} “This celebrated person was uncle to King Arthur, and son of a -Prince of Wales. After being seated in the see of St. David sixty-five -years, and having built twelve monasteries; after having been exemplary -in the piety of these days, this holy person died, at a most advanced -period of human life; having attained, as it is said, to the age of one -hundred and forty-six years. He was buried in the cathedral church of -St. David, and many years after canonized by Pope Calistus the Second.” -Warrington’s History of Wales, vol. ii. p. 385. - -{91a} To whose son a MS. t. Elizabeth, quoted by Willis, p. 69, gives -Owen’s monuments. - -{91b} Tan. Bib. Brit. - -{91c} Tanner, p. 720. - -{94} Pope Calistus, by whom David was canonized, had, it seems, raised -this place to a rank second only to the pontifical city itself, in the -meritorious efficacy of the pilgrimages made to it; having declared that -two visits to St. David’s were equal to one to Rome:—this occasioned a -proverbial rhyme in Welsh, which has been thus translated into Latin: - - Roma semel quantum, bis dat Menevia tantum. - -{95} Leland, Vol. V. p. 25. - -{96} For a description of these monuments, see Wyndham. - -{98} “From _Cwrwgl_: in Irish _Curach_. The Greenland boats are also -made of laths, tied together with whalebone, and covered with seal-skins. -In these slender vehicles they are said to be able to row upwards of -sixty miles a day; and the tops being covered with skins, they resist the -fury of every storm. For when a wave upsets them, the boat rises again -to the surface of the water, and regains its equilibrium. When Frobisher -first saw them, in 1576, he took them for seals or porpoises. In the -voyages of the two Zenos, they are compared to weavers’ shuttles. They -are used, also, in the islands of the North-Asian Archipelago, where the -Russians call them _Baidars_; and are found to be of such practical use, -that Lieut. Kotzebue, in his expedition along the American coast of the -Frozen Sea, took with him boats of a similar construction, in order to -ford any rivers that might obstruct his journey. Similar boats are used -by the Samoides of Nova Zembla. They are also used in Labrador, Hudson’s -Bay, and Norton Sound. They glide with almost inconceivable swiftness. -The Arctic highlanders of Baffin’s Bay, however, have no method of -navigating the water. They never even heard of a canoe.”—_Beauties_, -_Harmonies_, _and Sublimities of Nature_, Vol. iii. p. 335. Second Edit. - -{101} Itinerary, Vol. V. p. 12. - -{102} Over the river Rhyddol. - -{104} Near the town of Aberystwith, in the year 1795 or 1796, a very -fine coral stone was found, washed up from the sea, by an exciseman. It -is now in the possession of Mr. Charles Hall, of Aller, in Hilton parish, -Dorsetshire; is extremely fine on one side, near two inches in diameter, -rather flat, but with some convexity. The late Dr. Pulteney, of -Blandford, allowed it to be the finest specimen he had ever seen. Its -colour is a yellowish white, its filaments are finely curved, and very -uneven on the surface. - -{107} The additions to Camden, 1695, supposed this Bishop Idnert. - -{119} Called in Latin, Vaga. - -{121} See an excellent account of the woollen manufactory in the seventh -chapter of Aikin’s Tour through North Wales. - -{123} See Pennant’s Snowdonia, p. 89, and likewise Wilson’s excellent -View of Cader Idris. - -{124} Mr. Pennant, in his Snowdonia, p. 397, edit. 1781, mentions, that -there are brought annually to Salop “seven hundred thousand yards of web; -and to Welsh Pool, annually, between seven and eight hundred thousand -yards of flannel;” but he does not state the particulars whence he -deduces his general estimate. I have quoted this passage from Aikin’s -excellent chapter (vii.) on the woollen manufacture of North Wales, not -having in my possession Mr. P’s. Snowdonia. - -{128} First Walk through Wales. - -{155} Dr. Fuller observes, “It would be more facile to find graves for -as many saints, than saints for so many graves.” - -{166} Gelert was given to Llewelyn by King John, in 1205. - -{170} Evan Thomas worked in the copper-works at Aber Glaslyn, and lived -at a place called Drwsycoed, about a mile and a half beyond Beddgelert. - -{171} The most usual and best direction, in which to ascend Snowdon at -the present day, commences between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near -the Bridge. - -{181} “The Cambrian fair would blush as much at the term _courting in -bed_ as any other modest female would, that has never heard of this -custom before. It is not expressed _Caru-yn-y-Gwely_, which means -_courting in bed_; but _Caru-ar-y-Gwely_, courting on the bed. Should -the lover offer any indecency, his mistress would not only fly from him -with the velocity of lightning, but he would be fortunate if she would so -leave him without giving him a bloody nose at parting. In a few days -also, the tidings of his impudence would reach the ears of every lass in -the neighbourhood; his company would be shunned with the greatest -caution: and were he so successful as to prevail upon a young woman to -accept of his visits, her continency would be considered as doubtful.” - -{183a} “Assembled there, from pious toil they rest, -And sadly share the last sepulchral feast.” - - POPE’S HOMER. - -{183b} This last custom is not in use in Anglesea. - -{186} Such is the received opinion; but the place noted for this event -is only a thoroughfare to the grand apartments of the tower, the middle -one of which appears more probably to have been the room. They shew also -a cradle in which the Prince is said to have been rocked. - -{187} “On the outside of the town walls is a broad and pleasant terrace -along the side of the Menai, extending from the quay to the north end of -the town walls, and in the evening is a fashionable promenade for persons -of all descriptions. From the top of a rock behind the hotel is a fine -view of the town and castle: and on a clear day the Isle of Anglesea, -Holyhead, and Parys Mountains, may be distinctly seen, like a good map -before the eyes.”—EVANS. - -{188} The parish church is dedicated to Publicius, a brother of the -far-famed and illustrious Helen, whose splendid acts in favour of -Christianity are at this day attested in Palestine. Near the church are -the remains of Segontium, built about the year A.D. 365, by Maximus; or, -as he is styled by the British historians, Maxen Wledig. It was from -hence, it is supposed, that Maximus marched in his ill-fated expedition -to gain the imperial purple at Rome, taking with him all the youth whom -Helen invited to join his standard. The line of march which he pursued -is, even at this time, traditionally recorded amongst the common people -in the neighbourhood. - -{191} The hire of a boat is from seven shillings and sixpence to -half-a-guinea. - -{192} “The eastern seems originally to have consisted of seven stones, -six uprights supporting an immense superincumbent one (with its flat face -lying upon them), thirteen feet long, nearly as much broad, and four feet -thick.”—Warner’s Second Walk through Wales. - -{195} Before the author of this itinerary proposed publishing this tour -through the Cambrian territories, he was induced to send an account of -this extraordinary sect to the Gentleman’s Magazine, July, 1799, p. 579. -This is, therefore, only to be considered as a repetition: with the -addition of a brief extract from two subsequent letters, September, 1799, -p. 741; and November, p. 938; given to the public by different hands -through the medium of the Gentleman’s Magazine. - -{197} September, 1799, p. 741. - -{200} “Bishops Glynn, 1550; Robinson, 1584; Vaughan, 1597; Rowlands, -1616; Morgan, 1673; and one with a cross fleuri in the south transept, -ascribed to Owen Glendwr: but as he was buried at Monington, in -Herefordshire, where he died, I should rather ascribe it to some of the -earlier bishops. Mr. Pennant gives it to Owen Gwynned.” - -{204} A Trip to the Suspension Bridge over the Menai Straits. P. 11. - -{206} Id est, the _Englishman’s Island_; having become subject to the -English in the time of Egbert. See Rowland’s Mon. Ant. p. 172, 3. - -{224} See an elegant poem written by Owain Cyveiliog, a bard who -flourished in the twelfth century, intitled, “Hirlas Owain.” The -original may be found in Evan Evans’s Collections, published with an -English dress in Pennant’s Tours, Vol. iii. p. 93. This spirited -translation, by a gentleman, under the signature of R. W. must convince -the reader of genuine taste, that a true poetical genius pervaded at -times the bosom of the Welsh: and that some of Owain Cyveiliog’s works -scarcely need shrink from a comparison with the first classical -productions of Lyric poetry. - -{233} Princess Joan, daughter of John, King of England. - -{243} A Trip to the Suspension Bridge over the Menai Straits, p. 27. - -{248} Elphin was particularly unfortunate, as the Editor has frequently -seen from fifty to a hundred fine salmon taken from this weir at a tide; -and herrings drawn from it by cart loads. - -{256a} Evans. - -{256b} Vol. iv. p. 67, 2nd Edit. - -{266} The daughter of this gentleman was married to Captain Franklin, -well known for his Expedition to North America, &c. She was an amiable -and accomplished woman, and author of two Poems, highly honourable to her -memory: “The Veils,” and “Richard Cœur de Leon.” - -{279} Since our visit to this spot, Mr. Yorke has published a most -excellent and valuable book, entitled, A History of the Royal Tribes of -Wales. - -{281} Enquire the way to this aqueduct at the turnpike, about four miles -from Llangollen. - -{285a} Lady Eleanor Butler. - -{285b} Miss Ponsonby. - -{285c} Willis’s St. Asaph, p. 52. 285. - -{286} From a second survey of my note-book, I perceive, when speaking of -the house, I omitted mentioning that there are several family pieces, -both of the Wynne and Williams, worthy the inspection of the connoisseur. -The house has been built at various times. - -{299} This estimation is taken from the Ludlow guide: from which I have -taken such extracts, as, I flatter myself, will not be unacceptable to -the tourist. We dedicated two or three days to the investigation of this -interesting town; and, consequently, in those parts where the guide is -defective, we have made considerable additions. - -{310} “This view,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is one of the grandest on the -river, which I should not scruple to call _correctly picturesque_; which -is seldom the character of a purely natural scene.” - -{311} “The view at _Rure-dean Church_,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is a scene of -great grandeur. There both sides of the river are steep and both woody; -but in one the woods are intermixed with rocks. The deep umbrage of the -forest of Dean occupies the front; and the spire of the church rises -among the trees. The reach of the river which exhibits this scene is -long: and, of course, the view, which is a noble piece of natural -perspective, continues some time before the eye: but when the spire comes -directly in front, the grandeur of the landscape is gone.” - -{312} “The river is wider at this part,” says Mr. Gilpin, “and takes a -sweep round a towering promontory of rock, which forms the side-screen on -the left, and is the grand feature of the view. It is not a broad -fractured face of rock; but rather a woody hill, from which large rocky -projections, in two or three places, burst out, rudely hung with twisting -branches and shaggy furniture, which, like mane round the lion’s head, -give a more savage air to these wild exhibitions of nature. Near the top -a pointed fragment of solitary rock, rising above the rest, has rather a -fantastic appearance; but it is not without its effect in marking the -scene. A great master in landscape has adorned an imaginary view with a -circumstance exactly similar: - - Stabat acuta silex, præcisis undique saxis, - — dorso insurgens, altissima visu, - Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum, - — prona jugo, lævum incumbebat ad amnem.” - - ÆN. VIII. 233. - -{317} Tanner’s Notitia Monastica. - -{321} Warner’s first Walk through Wales. - -{333} The isles of Anglesea and Man are discovered from Snowdon. - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST [1834]*** - - -******* This file should be named 64132-0.txt or 64132-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/1/3/64132 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - diff --git a/old/64132-0.zip b/old/64132-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 684edf2..0000000 --- a/old/64132-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h.zip b/old/64132-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0880087..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/64132-h.htm b/old/64132-h/64132-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 789faf8..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/64132-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12803 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html - PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> -<title>The Cambrian Tourist [1834], by Anonymous</title> - <style type="text/css"> -/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ -<!-- - P { margin-top: .75em; - margin-bottom: .75em; - } - P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} - P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } - .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } - H1, H2 { - text-align: center; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - } - H3, H4, H5 { - text-align: center; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - } - BODY{margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - } - table { border-collapse: collapse; } -table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} - td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} - td p { margin: 0.2em; } - .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ - - .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - - .pagenum {position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: small; - text-align: right; - font-weight: normal; - color: gray; - } - img { border: none; } - img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } - p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; } - p.gutlist { margin-top: 0.1em; margin-bottom: 0.1em; margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -1em} - div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } - div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} - div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; - border-top: 1px solid; } - div.gapmediumdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; - border-top: 1px solid; border-bottom: 1px solid;} - div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; - margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; - border-bottom: 1px solid; } - div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; - margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; - border-bottom: 1px solid;} - div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; - border-top: 1px solid; } - .citation {vertical-align: super; - font-size: .5em; - text-decoration: none;} - span.red { color: red; } - body {background-color: #ffffc0; } - img.floatleft { float: left; - margin-right: 1em; - margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - img.floatright { float: right; - margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; - margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - img.clearcenter {display: block; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; - margin-bottom: 0.5em} - --> - /* XML end ]]>*/ - </style> -<link rel='coverpage' href='images/cover.jpg' /> -</head> -<body> -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Cambrian Tourist [1834], by Anonymous - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: The Cambrian Tourist [1834] - or, Post-Chaise Companion through Wales - - -Author: Anonymous - - - -Release Date: December 26, 2020 [eBook #64132] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST [1834]*** -</pre> -<p>Transcribed from the 1834 Whittaker & Co. edition by David -Price.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/p0b.jpg"> -<img alt= -"The Menai Bridge" -title= -"The Menai Bridge" - src="images/p0s.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<h1><span class="GutSmall">THE</span><br /> -CAMBRIAN TOURIST,</h1> -<p style="text-align: center"><span -class="GutSmall">OR,</span></p> -<p style="text-align: center">POST-CHAISE COMPANION</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span -class="GutSmall">THROUGH</span></p> -<p style="text-align: center">WALES;</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">CONTAINING -CURSORY SKETCHES OF THE</span></p> -<p style="text-align: center">WELSH TERRITORIES,</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span -class="GutSmall">AND</span></p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">A -DESCRIPTION OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND GAMES</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OF THE NATIVES.</span></p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center"><i>EIGHTH EDITION</i>.</p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">THE WHOLE -CORRECTED, AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED.</span></p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:<br /> -PRINTED FOR WHITTAKER & CO.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">AVE MARIA -LANE.</span></p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center">1834.</p> -<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. v</span>ACCOUNT -OF THE WELSH LANGUAGE.</h2> -<p class="gutsumm"><i>The force of the Letters—List of -Primitive Words—Character of the Language and of the -Poetry</i>.</p> -<p>It is supposed that there were anciently, in the Welsh or -British Language, <a name="citation0"></a><a href="#footnote0" -class="citation">[0]</a> no less than thirty-six letters, sixteen -of which were radicals, that expressed the primary sounds; and -the rest, modulations or dependents on them. For each of -these, it is probable that there was formerly a simple -appropriate character; but, since the invention of <a -name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vi</span>printing, and -the introduction of Roman letters, it has been necessary, for -want of a sufficient variety of cast for the purpose, to adopt -two, and in one instance even three, of those letters, to express -one sound or character, by which much of the simplicity and -beauty of the proper alphabet has been lost.</p> -<p>The present printed books contain only twenty-seven -characters: A, B, C, Ch, D, Dd, E, F, Ff, G, Ng, H, I, L, Ll, M, -N, O, P, Ph, R, S, T, Th, U, W, and Y; having neither J, K, X, -nor Z. C answers the purpose of K, when joined with W or Q; -and when placed with S, of X. It is said that Z is used in -the Armorican language, which is a dialect of this; but the Welsh -disown it.</p> -<p>No letter has any variation of sound, except the accented -vowels, â, ê, î, ô, û, ŵ, -ŷ, which are lengthened, or otherwise, according to the -power of the accent, and all are pronounced, as there are no -mutes.</p> -<p>A has the same sound as the English open <i>a</i> in the word -<i>bard</i>.</p> -<p>C is always hard as <i>k</i>.</p> -<p>Ch, which is accounted but as one consonant, is a guttural, as -<i>Chi</i> in Greek, or <i>ch</i>, <i>Cheth</i>, in Hebrew.</p> -<p>Dd is an aspirated <i>d</i>, and has the sound of <i>th</i> in -the words <i>this</i>, <i>that</i>. <i>Dda</i>, good, is -pronounced <i>Tha</i>.</p> -<p>F has the sound of an English <i>v</i>.</p> -<p>I is sounded as in the Italian, or like our <i>ee</i> in -<i>been</i>; thus <i>cîl</i>, a retreat, is pronounced -<i>keel</i>.</p> -<p>Ll is an aspirated <i>l</i>, and has much the sound of -<i>thl</i>. <i>Llangollen</i> is pronounced -<i>Thlangothlen</i>.</p> -<p><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vii</span>R, as -in the Greek language, is always aspirated at the beginning of a -word.</p> -<p>U sounds like the <i>i</i> in <i>limb</i>, <i>him</i>, -&c.</p> -<p>W is a vowel, and has the power of <i>oo</i> in -<i>soon</i>.</p> -<p>Y is in some words pronounced like <i>i</i> in <i>third</i>; -in others like <i>o</i> in <i>honey</i>: and again, in others as -the <i>u</i> in <i>mud</i>, <i>must</i>, &c.</p> -<p>V is sometimes used instead of <i>f</i>. B and P, C and -G, and U and Y, are used promiscuously, as were formerly V and -M.</p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>The following is a list of primitive words, which, as they -very commonly occur in the names of places, &c. the tourist -may find them of use.</p> -<p><i>Aber</i>, a confluence; the fall of one river into another -or into the sea, as <i>Aberdovey</i>, the conflux of the -Dovey.</p> -<p><i>Avon</i>, what flows; and from thence a stream or -river.</p> -<p><i>Allt</i>, a cliff; the steep of a hill.</p> -<p><i>Ar</i>, upon; bordering or abutting upon.</p> -<p><i>Bach</i>, and <i>Bychan</i>, little: these are of the -masculine gender, and <i>Vychan</i> and <i>Vechan</i> are -feminine.</p> -<p><i>Bôd</i>, a dwelling, residence, or station.</p> -<p><i>Bryn</i>, a hill.</p> -<p><i>Bwlch</i>, a gap or pass between rocks.</p> -<p><i>Cader</i>, a keep, fortress, or strong hold.</p> -<p><i>Caer</i>, a fort, or fortified place, generally constructed -with stones and mortar.</p> -<p><i>Castell</i>, a castle.</p> -<p><i>Coed</i>, a wood.</p> -<p><i>Carnedd</i>, a heap of stones.</p> -<p><i>Cefen</i>, a ridge; or high ground.</p> -<p><a name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -viii</span><i>Clawdd</i>, a ditch, dike, or trench; and sometimes -a wall or fence.</p> -<p><i>Clogwyn</i>, a precipice.</p> -<p><i>Craig</i>, a rock: from this the English word <i>Crag</i> -is derived.</p> -<p><i>Cwm</i>, a great hollow or glen; sometimes a valley.</p> -<p><i>Dinas</i>, a fort, or fortified place, constructed in -general with a rampart of loose stones and earth without any -cement.</p> -<p><i>Dôl</i>, a meadow or dale in the bend of a river.</p> -<p><i>Drws</i>, a door, pass, or opening.</p> -<p><i>Dû</i>, black.</p> -<p><i>Dyffryn</i>, a wide cultivated valley.</p> -<p><i>Ffynnon</i>, a spring, well, or source.</p> -<p><i>Garth</i>, a mountain that bends round, or that -incloses.</p> -<p><i>Glan</i>, a bank or shore.</p> -<p><i>Glyn</i>, a deep vale, through which a river -runs:—from hence was derived our word <i>Glen</i>.</p> -<p><i>Gwern</i>, a watery meadow.</p> -<p><i>Gwydd</i>, a wood; woody or wild.</p> -<p><i>Gwyn</i>, white.</p> -<p><i>Goch</i>, or <i>Coch</i>, red.</p> -<p><i>Llan</i>, a smooth plot; a place of meeting; the church, -place, or village; and figuratively the church.</p> -<p><i>Llech</i>, a flat stone, or crag; a smooth cliff.</p> -<p><i>Llwyn</i>, a grove or copse.</p> -<p><i>Llyn</i>, a pool, pond, or mere.</p> -<p><i>Maen</i>, a stone.</p> -<p><i>Maes</i>, an open field.</p> -<p><i>Mawr</i>, great:—<i>Vach</i>, little.</p> -<p><i>Moel</i>, fair; bald; a smooth mountain.</p> -<p><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -ix</span><i>Morfa</i>, a marsh.</p> -<p><i>Mynydd</i>, a mountain.</p> -<p><i>Pant</i>, a narrow hollow, or ravine.</p> -<p><i>Pen</i>, a head, top, or end.</p> -<p><i>Plâs</i>, a hall, or mansion.</p> -<p><i>Pont</i>, a bridge.</p> -<p><i>Porth</i>, a port.</p> -<p><i>Rhiw</i>, an ascent.</p> -<p><i>Rhôs</i>, a moist plain, or meadow.</p> -<p><i>Rhyd</i>, a ford.</p> -<p><i>Sarn</i>, a causeway.</p> -<p><i>Tal</i>, the front, head, or end.</p> -<p><i>Traeth</i>, a sand on the sea-shore.</p> -<p><i>Tref</i>, a township.</p> -<p><i>Ty</i>, a house.</p> -<p><i>Ynys</i>, an island.</p> -<p>The Welsh language is possessed of numerous beauties. -Its copiousness is very great; and it has no rival in the variety -of its synonymous forms of expression, principally arising from -the rich combinations of its verbs; for every simple verb has -about twenty modifications, by means of qualifying prefixes; and -in every form it may be conjugated, either by inflexions, like -the Latin, or by the auxiliaries, as in English. It rivals -the Greek, in its aptitude to form the most beautiful -derivatives, as well as in the elegance, facility, and -expressiveness of an infinite variety of compounds. The -author of letters from Snowdon has justly remarked, that it has -the softness and harmony of the Italian, with the majesty and -expression of the Greek. Of these I will give two singular -and striking instances, one of which is an <a -name="pagex"></a><span class="pagenum">p. x</span><i>Englyn</i>, -or epigram on the silk-worm; composed entirely of vowels.</p> -<blockquote><p>O’i wiw y ŵi weu ê â, -a’i weuau<br /> -O’i ŵyau y weua;<br /> -E’ weua ei ŵe aia’, <br /> -A’i weuau yw ieuau iâ.</p> -<p>“I perish by my art; dig mine own grave:<br /> -I spin my thread of life; my death I weave.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The other a distich on thunder, the grandeur of which is -scarcely to be surpassed in any language.</p> -<blockquote><p>Tân a dŵr yn ymwriaw,<br /> -Yw’r taranau dreigiau draw.</p> -<p>“The roaring thunder, dreadful in its ire,<br /> -Its water warring with aërial fire.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The metre of the Welsh poetry is very artificial and -alliterative, possessing such peculiar ingenuity in the selection -and arrangement of words, as to produce a rhythmical -concatenation of sounds in every verse. The old British -language abounded with consonants, and was formed of -monosyllables, which are incompatible with quantity; and the -bards could reduce it to concord by no other means than by -placing at such intervals its harsher consonants, so intermixing -them with vowels, and so adapting, repeating, and dividing the -several sounds, as to produce an agreeable effect from their -structure. Hence the laws of poetical composition in this -language are so strict and rigorous, that were it not for a -particular aptitude that it has for that kind of alliterative <a -name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xi</span>melody, which -is as essential as harmony in music, and which constitutes the -great beauty of its poetry, the genius of the bard must have been -greatly cramped. To the ears of the natives, the Welsh -metre is extremely pleasing, and does not subject the bard to -more restraint than the different sorts of feet occasioned to the -Greek and Roman poets. From the reign of Llywelyn to that -of Elizabeth, the laws of alliteration were prescribed, and -observed with such scrupulous exactness, that a line not -perfectly alliterative was condemned as much by the Welsh -grammarians, as a false quantity was by the Greeks and -Romans.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/map-swb.jpg"> -<img alt= -"Map of South Wales" -title= -"Map of South Wales" - src="images/map-sws.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>THE<br -/> -CAMBRIAN TOURIST.</h2> -<blockquote><p>These are the haunts of Meditation, these<br /> -The scenes where ancient bards th’ inspiring breath<br /> -Ecstatic felt.</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span -class="smcap">Thomson</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>As a centrical situation from which to undertake a Tour to -either North or South Wales, and to which conveyances are now -established from all parts of England and Scotland, I fixed on -Oxford. And should the Tourist’s undertaking be -commenced early in the season, and his time to enjoy it be ample, -he will have the opportunity of viewing this seat of learning and -nursery of the arts to advantage; the elegant piles of building -which Oxford exhibits, the stores of learned wealth which it -possesses, and the beautiful paintings which adorn its halls and -colleges, are so cheaply and so fully described in the Oxford -Guides, that to attempt to do it in this work would be -superfluous, if not ridiculous: still I may be excused for -pointing out to those whose period of stay may be limited, the -objects more particularly worthy their attention. The three -churches generally viewed are St. Mary’s, All Saints, and -St. Peter’s in the East. St. Mary’s is the <a -name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>church used by -the University on Sundays and holidays: All Saints is a beautiful -modern structure, in the High-street: St. Peter’s in the -East is very ancient; it was formerly the University Church, and -is now, during Lent, attended by the members of it for afternoon -service.</p> -<p>The Bodleian or University Library, one of the largest in -Europe, as well as the Picture Gallery, are to be seen in summer, -from eight to two o’clock, and from three to five; in the -winter only till three in the afternoon. The Arundel -marbles are placed in a large room on the north side of the -Schools. The Theatre, in which are held the Public Acts, -called the Comitia and Encænia, and Lord Crewe’s -annual commemoration, in June or July, of the benefactors to the -University, when the prizes adjudged to particular performances -are publicly recited, is a superb edifice, and was built by Sir -Christopher Wren, at the expense of Archbishop Sheldon: it cost -16,000<i>l.</i>; its roof has been greatly admired. Near -this, on the west, stands the Ashmolean Museum of natural -curiosities, coins, &c. &c. and on the other side of the -Theatre, the Clarendon Printing-house. Southward of the -Schools stands in a fine area the celebrated Radcliffe Library, a -noble building with a handsome dome.</p> -<p>St. Mary Magdalen College at the east end of the city, near -the river Cherwell, is particularly worthy of attention, were it -only to see the picture of our Saviour bearing his cross; -supposed to be painted by Guido. Such is the awful -solemnity of the place, and the impressive beauty of this -painting, as well as of the windows, particularly of that -representing the last judgment, that none can be better -calculated to give a favourable bias to the <a -name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>mind of youth; -for should religion waver in the mind, the sweet benignity of Him -who died to save mankind</p> -<blockquote><p>Shall on the heart impress such grateful love,<br -/> -That Atheist ne’er can shake, or Deist move.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The Cloister of this College, which remains in its primitive -state, is the most venerable of the University; the interior is -ornamented with curious hieroglyphics, the key to which is very -fully given in the Oxford Guide, from an ancient manuscript in -the College.</p> -<p>Passing by numerous other Colleges and Halls, all interesting, -if the time and inclination of the Tourist permit him to visit -them, I shall proceed to Christ Church, which merits particular -attention. This College consists of four courts: 1. The -great Quadrangle; 2. Peckwater square; 3. Canterbury court; 4. -The Chaplain’s court; and some other buildings. The -noble west front is 382 feet in length. Over the great gate -in the middle of this front is a beautiful tower, designed by Sir -Christopher Wren, erected by Dr. Fell, in which is hung the great -bell, called Tom, the weight of which is eight tons and a half: -on the sound of this bell, the scholars of the University are to -retire to their respective Colleges.</p> -<p>The great quadrangle is 264 by 261 feet in the clear. -The Hall takes up more than half the south side: we ascend to it -by a spacious and stately staircase of stone, the roof of which, -supported by a single pillar, is beautiful. The staircase, -lobby, and entrance into the hall, have been altered under the -direction of Mr. Wyatt. The Hall is by far the most -magnificent room of the kind in <a name="page4"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 4</span>Oxford. There are near 300 -compartments in the cornice, which are embellished with as many -coats of arms, carved and blazoned in their proper colours. -At the upper end of the hall the beautiful gothic window merits -attention.—For the long list of portraits of eminent -persons that adorn the walls, <i>vide</i> Oxford Guide.</p> -<p>Christ Church, which is the cathedral of the diocese, formerly -belonged to St. Frideswide’s Monastery; for the roof of the -choir, which is of beautiful stone-work, it was indebted to -Cardinal Wolsey.</p> -<p>The east window was painted by Mr. Price, senior, of London, -from a design by Sir James Thornhill. The window at the -north corner of the west end is curiously painted, representing -St. Peter delivered out of prison by the angel. It was -executed by Oliver, in his eighteenth year. The fine ring -of ten bells in the steeple, as well as Tom before described, -were brought from Oseney Abbey. Choral service is performed -every day at ten and five; except on Sundays and holidays, when -it is at eight in the morning.</p> -<p>Three sides of Peckwater court are uniform, designed by Dr. -Aldrich. On the fourth side is the Library, 141 feet long, -built in the Corinthian order. In the lower apartments to -the right and left are deposited the celebrated collection of -pictures, given to the College by Gen. Guise. Amongst these -is the celebrated performance of Annibal Caracci, representing -his family in a butcher’s shop. St. Francis in a -vision supported by angels, by ditto. A Medusa’s -head, by Rubens. Two Nativities, by Titian. A -Nativity, by Raphael. The flight into Egypt, by Guido -Rini. Two half-lengths of women, by <a -name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -5</span>Dominichino. Jesus and Saint John embracing, by -Raphael, &c. &c.</p> -<p>For a farther account of the various beauties of Oxford, I -must again recommend the Tourist to refer to the Oxford Guide, as -well as for information with respect to Heythrop, the seat of the -Earl of Shrewsbury, 17 miles N. of Oxford; Ditchley, the seat of -the Right Honourable Lord Dillon, about four miles and a half -from Heythrop; and Nuneham Courtney, the seat of the late Earl -Harcourt, which affords the richest treat to the admirers of fine -paintings that the country affords.</p> -<p>But if a soldier’s ardour warms his soul, and he would -fain be led to deeds of arms, pursue the road to honour, and seek -the pinnacle of fame, to Blenheim’s towers let him turn his -steps; and let the gentle Rosamond’s hard fate midst -Woodstock’s bowers beguile him of a sigh; for love and war -should still go hand in hand. Here well-earned honours have -been well repaid; and great as Marlborough’s noble deeds in -arms shall shine in the historic page, still shall a -sovereign’s and a nation’s gratitude outvie the -hero’s deeds.</p> -<p>Blenheim, the princely residence of his grace the Duke of -Marlborough, is situated about eight miles from Oxford, to the -west of Woodstock, from which town you enter the Park by a -spacious portal of the Corinthian order. The noble view of -the house of Blenheim, the extent of the park, the lake, valley, -and richly varied scenery, are from hence highly -impressive. The architecture of this noble pile of -building, the interior finish and display of the arts, increase -rather than diminish the first impression. The -circumference of the park is about <a name="page6"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 6</span>eleven miles: the gardens are -tastefully displayed, owing much to nature, whose beauties are -here happily blended with art.</p> -<p>The distance from Woodstock to Witney is eight miles and three -quarters, by a turnpike road; thence to Burford, seven miles and -a quarter; Northleach, nine miles; Cheltenham, twelve miles and -three quarters.</p> -<h3>CHELTENHAM.</h3> -<p>’Twas from hence with a friend, an equal admirer of -Nature’s landscapes, and attached to pedestrian -independence, that a tourist resolved to visit the wild and -impressive scenery of the Cambrian mountains. The outlines -of their route being arranged, they sallied forth in the month of -July from this place so much resorted to, and celebrated for its -mineral waters. Since it has become a place of fashion, the -lodging-houses have been considerably improved, and rendered -comfortable for the company, who make this place their -residence. The season usually commences about May, and -frequently continues till the beginning of November. The -majority of the company who frequent Cheltenham resort here not -so much for the purpose of water-drinking, as to enjoy the -delightful walks and rides, and partake of the sociability of the -neighbourhood.</p> -<p>The Walk at the Pump-room, well planned, and kept in excellent -order, is planted on each side with limes; at the end is a small -square, where the pump is situate, with a room on the left for -the accommodation of the company to promenade, measuring -sixty-six feet by twenty-three: on the opposite side a -reading-room, with a billiard-table <a name="page7"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 7</span>over: and a house, the residence of -the attendant at the Spa: beyond that is a similar walk which -leads to another serpentine walk; from the end of this the spire -of Cheltenham church forms a beautiful object. Near these -walks stands, on an eminence, the seat of the Earl of Fauconberg; -which was the royal residence during their Majesties’ stay -from July 12 to August 16, 1788.</p> -<p>In respect to the Rides, Cleave Hill, Dowdeswell, -&c. Tewkesbury and Glocester are most admired.</p> -<p>Speaking of the history of the place, we find Cheltenham was a -town in the reign of King William the Conqueror; Edward likewise -is supposed to have marched through it, before he encamped his -army on the field of Tewkesbury; previous to the battle of the -houses of York and Lancaster.</p> -<p>Three days may be passed very pleasantly at this place, in -viewing the various improvements that have been made in the last -twenty-five years, tending both to increase the health and -pleasure of its numerous and respectable visitors: for these -improvements the town is greatly indebted to the exertions of -Messrs. Moreau, King, and Fotheringham, the masters of the -ceremonies. Duty with such men scarcely required the -additional stimulus of interest to render it efficacious; but -with so powerful an auxiliary it was irresistible: thousands have -been expended after thousands; public spirit was roused, and -competition excited. The public, as well as Messrs. -Thompson, Skillicorne, Capstack, Smith, Barrett, Watson and Co., -and all others who have spiritedly adventured their property, -will, I hope, derive mutual advantage, if not checked by the high -charges of some of <a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -8</span>the principal inns, and the enormous establishments of -the overbearing, monopolizing barrack lodging-houses, apparently -better calculated for workhouses or houses of correction, than -places of residence for valetudinarians.</p> -<p>The wells and baths are numerous, and calculated, under proper -medical superintendence, for all chronic disorders and -constitutions; but they are not to be trifled with: professional -advice, for their proper use, is absolutely necessary.</p> -<p>Of the efficacy of the water, to which this town is indebted -for its present celebrity, I refer my readers to a Treatise -published by Dr. Fothergill, of Bath.</p> -<p>The church is a respectable old building, by far too crowded -and encumbered with galleries, and what are intended as -accommodations for a large congregation, to allow all parties to -participate in and profit by the discourses there delivered.</p> -<p>The rooms and public receptacles for company, it should be the -business of some party to see closed, at all events on Sunday, -and particularly on Sunday morning, against those errant -gamblers, that will eventually be the bane of Cheltenham.</p> -<p>Libraries and Banks are numerous, as are conveyances to London -through Oxford, and to Bristol through Gloucester: here likewise -are conveyances to Hereford, Worcester, Birmingham, &c., and -by that route to North Wales; but this is not to be depended -upon: but to South Wales, through Gloucester and Hereford, the -conveyance by coach and waggon for passengers or baggage is ready -and convenient.</p> -<p><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>For -further particulars relative to this splendid modern -establishment, for such Cheltenham certainly may with propriety -be designated, I must refer the reader to the Cheltenham Guide; -the information derived from which will amply repay him for its -trifling cost. From hence to Gloucester, eight miles one -furlong, the road is excellent; and if time allows, Tewkesbury is -worthy of a visit, being only nine miles from Cheltenham, and ten -miles and a half from Gloucester.</p> -<p>Its ancient abbey is a venerable building, founded in 715, by -two brothers, Odo and Dodo, who endowed it with the manor of -Stanway in Gloucestershire, &c. &c. sufficient to -maintain a prior and four monks of the order of Benedictines: -this priory was afterwards, about the year 980, subjected to the -priory of Cranbourne, in Dorsetshire, but being subsequently -rebuilt in 1102, by Robert Fitz-Hamon, and its endowments greatly -enlarged, Girald, the Abbot of Cranbourne, on account of the -fruitfulness of the soil, and superiority of its situation, -removed his establishment to it, leaving only a prior and two -monks at Cranbourne. From this period it appears to have -risen in consequence as a town.</p> -<p>The ashes of many noble characters are here deposited; and -amongst the rest, amidst the mingled heap of slain and murdered -at and after the battle of Tewkesbury, those of the accomplished -and lamented Edward, Prince of Wales, son of King Henry the -Sixth; Edmund, Duke of Somerset; his brother John de Somerset, -the Earl of Devonshire; Lord Wenlock, Master of the Horse to the -Prince, with numerous others. Here likewise rest in peace, -where all animosities are forgotten, the remains of <a -name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span><i>false</i>, -<i>fleeting</i>, <i>perjured Clarence</i>; as also those of -Isabel his wife, who was buried with great pomp and -solemnity.</p> -<p>Further particulars of this ancient town the reader will -obtain by reference to a small but interesting historical work, -on the Antiquities of Tewkesbury, by W. Dyde of that place; who, -after giving a very full and explicit account of the contest -betwixt the houses of York and Lancaster, concludes by saying, -“The local memorials of this very decisive battle are but -few. The principal scenes of the action are the meadow, -which has received the appellation of Bloody Meadow, and the -Vineyard. The former lies between two gently descending -banks, about half a mile south-west of the town, and was the spot -where the slaughter was the greatest. The latter was the -place where Queen Margaret lay, and where some intrenchments are -still to be traced.”</p> -<p>Stebbing says, “to the monastery and convent of -Tewkesbury, King Henry the Seventh granted the parochial church -of Towton to pray for the soul of Edmund, Duke of Somerset, his -brother John, and others, who lost their lives in the quarrel of -the house of Lancaster.”</p> -<p>The entrance to Tewkesbury from Worcester, or Hereford and -Malvern, after a heavy fall of rain, presents to the eye the -largest moveable body of inland water I have witnessed in -England; the junction of the Severn, and the Warwickshire Avon, -each overflowing their banks, rushing down two beautiful vales to -join their currents opposite the town, and augmenting their -volume by <i>the</i> two tributary streams of the Carron and the -Swilgate, impress you with the idea of the vicinity of the sea, -and the power of the tide, to collect so large a body of that <a -name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>fluid element -in such overpowering currents. The drive or ride from -Tewkesbury to Upton, and from thence to Malvern hills, is -beautiful; indeed, not one inch of this delightful country should -be missed or slighted, by travelling over it in the dark or in -bad weather: the view from Malvern hills over Worcester, and the -rich vale through which the Severn’s current rolls, is -perhaps as fine a one as the eye of the painter could wish to be -indulged with. Winding round the Malvern hills by a good -turnpike road, you gain the Herefordshire view, with the -mountains of Wales in the back ground, having Ross on the left, -and Bromyard, Leominster, and Salop on the right; descending the -hill, you soon reach Ledbury, scarcely remarkable for any thing -but the antiquity of its houses, and the fine quality of the -cider and perry made in its vicinity. Malvern is about an -equal distance from Ledbury and Upton, and those places are -nearly equi-distant from</p> -<h3>GLOUCESTER.</h3> -<p>The pin manufactory was established here by John Tisley, in -the year 1626, and the business is now become so extensive that -the returns from London alone are estimated at near twenty -thousand pounds per annum. Before the introduction of pins -into England, anno 1548, skewers of brass, silver, and gold, and -likewise thorns curiously scraped, called by the Welch women -pindraen, were used. Though the pins themselves are -apparently simple, yet their manufacture is not a little curious -and complex. The wire in its most rough state is brought -from a wire company in the neighbourhood of Bristol: <a -name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>till the year -1563 English iron wire was drawn out by manual strength. -The first operation attending this curious process is the fixing -the circular roll of wire to the circumference of a wheel, which -in its rotation throwing the wire against a board, with great -violence, takes off the black external coat: vitriol is next -applied to bring the brass to its common colour. The brass -wire being too thick for the purpose of being cut into pins, is -reduced to any dimension the workman pleases, by forcibly drawing -it through an orifice in a steel plate, of a similar -diameter. The wire being thus reduced to its proper -dimensions, is next straightened: it is then cut into portions of -six inches in length, and afterwards to the size of the pin, and -each piece respectively sharpened on a grinding-stone, turned by -a wheel. We now come to a distinct branch of the -manufactory; the forming the heads, or, as the workmen term it, -head spinning: this is accomplished by means of a spinning-wheel, -which, with astonishing rapidity, winds the wire round a small -rod: this, when drawn out, leaves a hollow tube between the -circumvolutions: every two circumvolutions, or turns, being cut -with shears, form one head. The heads thus formed are -distributed to children, who, with great dexterity, by the -assistance of an anvil, or hammer, worked by the foot, fix the -point and the head together. The pins, thus formed, are -boiled in a copper, containing a solution of block-tin -pulverized, and the lees of port; and by this last process it -changes its yellow brassy colour, and assumes the appearance of -silver or tin. The labourers are all paid according to the -weight of their work.</p> -<p><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>Near -Gloucester, at the small island of Alney, formed by the river -Severn dividing itself into two branches, historians relate that -Canute and Edmund, after many bloody engagements in Essex, -determined to prevent a farther effusion of blood by a single -combat. Neither, however, as the story relates, obtaining a -victory, peace was concluded, and the kingdom divided between -them. We paid, however, little regard to the supposed place -of this contest, as it was not for us puisne antiquarians to -discuss points on which the greatest historians had so materially -differed.</p> -<p>The roads round Gloucester have been greatly improved of late -years, more particularly the one to Ross and Hereford, which was -hilly, rocky, and generally dangerous: their texture and surface -are now totally changed, and, winding the hills, the gradual -ascent removes both danger and difficulty; the expense must have -been enormous, and the traveller pays proportionably in turnpike -tolls; they are, generally speaking, round Gloucester and -Hereford, the highest in England. Nothing can surpass the -excellence of the road from Gloucester to Bristol, to which -conveyances are constantly going; and to such parties as have not -visited that eager bustling mart of trade, two or three days may -be afforded with a certainty of meeting with the most ample -return for the trouble and expense bestowed. The Church of -St. Mary Redcliff, which is both ancient and beautiful; the Abbey -Church or cathedral: the docks; the charities, and particularly -that for teaching the blind to work; the hot wells at Clifton; -St. Vincent’s rocks, and the diminished vessels gliding on -the Avon; the beautiful views, mansions, villas, and pleasure <a -name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>grounds in -every direction in its vicinity, evincing at once the taste and -opulence of its merchants and citizens, but particularly those -going to and returning from King’s Weston, the view of Lord -de Clifford’s mansion, and the varied prospects it -commands, as well as those from the park and plantations, which -are open to the public, constantly varying the scenery on the -Avon, Kingroad, and the distant Cambrian Alps, afforded pleasure -so exquisite to my romantic fancy, that for ten times the labour -and expense bestowed, I would not have debarred myself of -them. Here most happily are blended commercial riches and -the life of trade with all that nature’s bounty can bestow -to please the fancy or delight the sight.</p> -<p>The antiquity of Bristol is recorded by Gildas, who has set it -down as one of the principal fortified cities in Britain, when -the Romans abandoned the island in the year 430. But little -mention is made of it again in history till the year 1063, when -Harold, the son of Earl Godwin, embarked from Bristol with an -army to wreak his vengeance on Griffith, King of Wales, who had -committed divers aggressions. After sailing along the coast -and landing his men at various points, he reduced the country to -yield obedience to King Edward, and having compelled the Welsh to -cut off the head of their king and give him hostages for their -fidelity, he returned again to England.</p> -<p>The Castle of Bristol was formerly of great extent and -strength, and is repeatedly mentioned by historians for the -gallant defences it has made, and the noble prisoners it has held -in safe custody; but it was not till the time of Charles the -First that it belonged to the city, when being <a -name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>found to be a -harbour and receptacle for rogues and vagabonds, it was first -added to the jurisdiction of the county of the city of Bristol, -and afterwards sold to the mayor and burgesses for 959<i>l.</i>, -to be held under the manor of East Greenwich in Kent, at the -yearly fee-farm rent of 40<i>l.</i></p> -<p>Both Henry the Second and Henry the Third, during their -minorities, were placed at Bristol as a place of security, at -which they might receive their education. It was here, in -the year 1211, that the following infamous act of tyrannic -cruelty was exercised by King John. That monarch having -laid a heavy tax upon all the Jews throughout his dominions, one -of that race, named Abraham, having refused to pay the tax, was -fined in the sum of ten thousand marks; this the obstinate Jew -likewise refused to pay, which so much exasperated the King, that -he commanded one of his teeth to be drawn every day till the sum -was paid; the unfortunate Jew had seven of them taken out of his -head, and then submitted to the payment, rather than lose his -last tooth, he having but one left.</p> -<p>Bristol sends two members to Parliament; the first regular -summons by writ was issued by King Edward the First, directing -that two proper persons should be sent as its representatives to -the Parliament at Shrewsbury.</p> -<p>“King Henry the Seventh visited Bristol in 1490, and -held his court in St. Augustine’s Back, when the citizens, -willing to shew the King all the respect they could during his -residence, arrayed themselves in their best clothes; the King -thinking some of their wives rather too well <a -name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>dressed for -their station, ordered that every citizen who was worth -20<i>l.</i> in goods, should pay twenty shillings, for that their -wives went so sumptuously apparelled.”</p> -<p>The present Cathedral was the collegiate church of the -monastery of St. Augustine, originally founded by King Henry the -Second, and Robert Fitzharding, father of Maurice, the first of -the Berkeley family. At the suppression of the monasteries -by king Henry the Eighth, after that of St. Augustine had been -destroyed, with the exception of the gate, and the west end of -the collegiate church had begun to share the same fate, the King -changed his mind, and resolved upon erecting it into a bishopric, -directing the church to be repaired, and thenceforth termed the -cathedral church of the holy and undivided Trinity, appointing -Paul Bush, rector of Winterborn, to be the first Bishop, -appropriating the revenue of the suppressed monastery, amounting -to 765<i>l.</i> 15<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per annum, partly to the -bishop and partly to the chapter; consisting of a Dean and six -Prebendaries. He likewise took the county of Dorset from -the see of Salisbury, transferring it to that of Bristol.</p> -<p>The interior of the Cathedral, though not to be named with -those of Gloucester and Worcester, is still worthy of attention; -particularly its vaulted roof, those of the side aisles, and an -emblematic picture of the Holy Trinity, by Vansomers, over the -altar. The windows of the side aisles, which are of -enamelled glass, are said to have been the gift of Nell -Gwynn.</p> -<p>On the south-west of the cathedral are the cloisters; and at -the south-east corner of the cloisters is the bishop’s -palace, which was in great part rebuilt in 1744, when the <a -name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>following -extraordinary circumstance happened. “A parcel of -plate, supposed to have been hidden during the time of the civil -wars, fell through the floor in the corner of one of the rooms; -this accident occasioned the floor to be taken up, when, to the -surprise of those persons present, a dungeon underneath was -discovered, in which were found many human bones, and instruments -of iron for torture; at the same time was laid open a private -passage to this dungeon, which passage was part of the original -edifice; it was an arched way only large enough for one person to -pass, and was made within the wall; one end led to the dungeon, -and the other end to an apartment of the house, which by -appearance had been made use of for a court of judgment. -Both the entrances of this mural passage were walled up, and so -concealed, that no one could suspect the wall to be -hollow.”</p> -<p>St. Mary Redcliff Church, which is supposed to be one of the -most beautiful gothic structures for a parish church in England, -next merits attention. The present edifice was erected by -William Canning, an eminent merchant of Bristol, about the year -1456; the foundation having been commenced by his grandfather of -the same name, on the site of the former church, built by Simon -de Burton, in the year 1294. Canning having been rendered -unhappy by the death of his wife, and being pressed by the King -to a second marriage, he took holy orders to avoid an act so -repugnant to his feelings: he was afterwards Dean of Westbury, to -which he was likewise a great benefactor. He died in 1474, -and was buried in the south end of the aisle of this church, in -which are two monuments erected to his memory; in the one he is -represented in his magisterial <a name="page18"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 18</span>robes (he having been five times -Mayor of Bristol), with his lady by his side, with a long -inscription on two tables. In the other monument he is -habited as a priest.</p> -<p>The roof, which is of stone, displaying many curious devices, -with much good workmanship, and the lofty pillars which support -it, are beautiful; the interior, which consists of a middle and -two side aisles, has a light and highly pleasing effect, and is -generally much admired. The altar is very elegant and -richly decorated, and over it are three capital paintings by -Hogarth. The organ, which is of great size and compass, -contains upwards of one thousand speaking pipes, and for richness -of tone is scarcely to be equalled. It was in a room over -the north porch entrance, in an old chest, that Chatterton, then -a youth of seventeen, gave out that he found the poetical -manuscripts, ascribed to Rowley and others, and said to have been -written in the fifteenth century. Chatterton’s father -was sexton of St. Mary’s Redcliff and master of a charity -school in Pile-street, in which school, under a Mr. Love, who -succeeded his father, and at the Colston Blue-coat school, he -received his education.</p> -<p>The Exchange in Corn-street is a noble building of free-stone -highly finished; it cost upwards of 50,000<i>l.</i> The -principal front is 110 feet; it is of the Corinthian order, upon -a rustic basement. Next to the Exchange stands the -Post-office, and higher up, on the opposite side of the street, -the Council-house, where the mayor or some other magistrate sits -daily to administer justice, from twelve till two -o’clock.</p> -<p>The charities of this city are numerous and extensive; <a -name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>the Infirmary -is a noble building, situate in Earl-street, St. James’s; -it is conducted on the most liberal plan.</p> -<p>The port of Bristol has of late years been greatly enlarged -and improved, principally on a plan suggested by the Rev. William -Milton, Rector of Heckfield, Hants; an excellent engineer, and a -man of most extensive mechanical abilities, whose only reward for -so great a service rendered to this wealthy port was a present of -a piece of plate; had he rendered as great a service to the -merchants and corporation of Liverpool, he would most likely have -obtained a handsome independence for life; for although the -charities of Bristol speak highly in its favour, still its high -spirit, its hospitality, or its generosity, are not quite so -proverbial as those of Liverpool.</p> -<p>The Hot-well is distant about a mile and a half to the west of -Bristol, in the parish of Clifton: the water is too well known -for its great efficacy in pulmonary complaints, and cases of -general debility, to require any recapitulation of its virtues, -in this slight sketch of the Hot-well and Clifton.</p> -<p>As a place of fashionable resort, not only for invalids, but -for pleasure, its beautiful situation, both for walks and rides, -the gentility of the company that frequent it, the easy and well -regulated expense with which persons may with comfort and -respectability reside here, must always ensure it an overflow of -company in the season. The Avon, below St. Vincent’s -rocks, is but little wider than it is at Bristol; but as the -spring tides rise from 30 to 36 feet, the heaviest ships can -navigate it at such times.</p> -<p>St. Vincent’s rocks, overhanging the Avon, afford to <a -name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>the -pedestrian, and particularly to the botanist, an infinity of -amusement; a great portion of the plants, if not peculiar to this -spot, are but rarely to be met with elsewhere.</p> -<p>These rocks are chiefly composed of a species of -chocolate-coloured marble, bearing a good polish; it is worked -into chimney-pieces, &c., with good effect, the refuse -burning into a strong and beautiful white lime. The -reverberation of sound occasioned by the miners blasting these -rocks, and the dreadful crash of the masses thus hurled from -their native beds down the craggy precipices is grand and -terrific; it is in the fissures of the rocks thus opened that -those beautiful chrystals, called Bristol stones, are found.</p> -<h3>CLIFTON</h3> -<p>is one of the most charming villages in England. On -every side the views are beautiful; and although its population -is great, still it has not lost its rural appearance. From -the salubrity of the air, numerous respectable families have -taken up their residence in the village and its vicinity; but -these elegant mansions being surrounded by their gardens and -shrubberies, they have prevented the ground from being too much -covered with buildings.</p> -<h3>KINGSWESTON,</h3> -<p>the seat of Lord de Clifford, is about four miles north-west -of Bristol. It is a noble mansion, built by Sir John -Vanbrugh, somewhat in his usual style; but the situation -according with the style better than usually fell to the lot of -that architect, it has a grand and noble effect. <a -name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>The -collection of paintings here are by esteemed masters, and very -fine; the gardens, hot-houses, &c. are kept up in very great -style. The park, which is richly wooded and beautifully -diversified, offers a rich treat to the painter; the varied -prospects obtained at every turn and opening of its numerous -walks and vistas are as rich and extensive as nature in this -climate can afford. The whole, under very trifling -restrictions, are most kindly and liberally left open by his -Lordship, for the public to enjoy. Kingsweston inn, just -above the park, is a comfortable house, delightfully -situated.</p> -<p>To the west of Kingsweston, on a hill called Penpold, is a -pleasure-house: from this hill, which is of great height, the -most beautiful prospects are to be enjoyed. You look down -on that fine sheet of water, Kingroad and the Severn Sea; -commanding alternately views of Somersetshire, Glamorganshire, -and Monmouthshire, with Wales in the back ground; Gloucestershire -and Wiltshire: this with the bustle of the shipping in the nearer -sea view, so engage the attention, that time flies unheeded -by.</p> -<p>From hence proceed to Shirehampton, a pleasing village, -leading to a good inn, called Lamplighters’ hall, a place -of considerable resort, during the summer months, to witness the -busy scene at the mouth of the Avon: it is situated close to high -water-mark, on the bank of the river, opposite to Pill or -Crockern Pill, where is a Custom-house, at which all vessels -leaving the port of Bristol are obliged to take their last -clearance in going out, and from which they are furnished with -pilots inwards. The ride from hence, when the tides are not -too high, over <a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -22</span>turf to the mouth of the Avon, is very fine. The -house is built purposely to enjoy the busy scene which the river -and Kingroad here present; and its accommodations are remarkably -good, and the charges reasonable.</p> -<p>Frenchhay, in Gloucestershire, is about four miles north-east -of Bristol; the drive this way is beautiful, from the numerous -noblemen and gentlemens’ seats and highly cultivated -grounds, which occupy both sides of the road. It was here, -during the war, that the great depôt of French prisoners -was established.</p> -<p>At the east end of the common is a remarkable lusus -naturæ, which was taken out of a stone quarry at Downend; -its form is an entire perfect muscle, consisting of the upper and -under shell, which are closed together; its weight is nearly two -tons.</p> -<p>Bristol is but one stage from either the Old or New Passage; -it is eleven miles to the New, and nine to the Old. The -mail and most of the coaches pass their passengers, &c. by -the New Passage, as saving a stage on the Milford road. -Chaises or horses are generally charged at the rate of twelve -miles to either.</p> -<p>At Aust (or the Old Passage) it is about two miles over to -Beachley, in the parish of Tidenham, Gloucestershire. This -is the direct way to Chepstow, Newent, and all the forest of -Dean, Herefordshire, Worcestershire, and the upper part of -Monmouthshire.</p> -<p>At the New Passage, it is about three miles over at high water -to Port Skewith, near St. Pierre in Monmouthshire. When the -wind is S.E. or N.W., it is directly across the river, therefore -you must be at the passage where you intend to cross, an hour -before high <a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -23</span>water, as they can only go over then, and that but once, -there being no passage during the flood or ebb.</p> -<p>Should the traveller have before visited Bristol, or decline -this excursion, he will find the walk from Gloucester to</p> -<h3>WESTBURY</h3> -<p>is by no means uninteresting; the distance eight miles and -three quarters, through Highnam and Minsterworth; the country is -studded with half-seen villas, and animated with churches, whilst -the retrospect commands a fine view of Robin Hood’s hill, -with the dark tower of Gloucester cathedral, just rising in the -perspective.</p> -<p>At Westbury is the seat of Maynard Colchester, Esq. The -church, with a detached spire, stands close to the house. -Near this place mineralogists will be highly gratified by -visiting a cliff, called Garden, or Golden Cliff; which is most -beautifully encrusted with mundic and crystals. This rock, -standing close to the Severn, is only accessible at the reflux of -the tide: and when illuminated by the sun wears a most beautiful -appearance.</p> -<p>Between Westbury and Newnham, in an extremely delightful -valley, bordering on the forest of Dean, is situate</p> -<h3>FLAXLEY ABBEY,</h3> -<p>the seat of Sir Thomas Crawley Bovey. This valley was -formerly called Castiard, or the Happy Valley; and a monastery -for Cistercian monks was founded here by Roger, the second Earl -of Hereford, and the charter confirmed by King Henry II. -The abbey was standing <a name="page24"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 24</span>till the year 1777, when part of it -was unfortunately consumed by fire; since that a considerable -portion of building has been added, and it is become a very -desirable summer residence. The views from the park, behind -the house, are very extensive, commanding the vale of Gloucester, -and the river Severn, gay with vessels; whilst the extensive -forest of Dean, and Flaxley Abbey, form nearer objects for -admiration. This wood abounds with the most charming walks; -and while it affords refreshing shelter from a summer’s -sun, admits partial views of the adjacent country. Camden, -in speaking of the forest of Dean, derives its name from Ardene, -a wood, in the Gaulic and British languages. It lies -between the two rivers Severn and Wye, and contains thirty -thousand acres. The soil is well adapted for the growth of -oaks and forest timber; and the situation particularly commodious -for exporting it for ship-building, and other purposes. The -immense quantities of wood annually felled for the use of the -navy have so thinned this forest of its timber, that it is now -preserved till a certain growth, by act of parliament. -Camden observes, that the oak of this forest was so considerable, -that the Spanish armada had orders to destroy the timber of it in -the year 1588. It suffered considerably in the great -rebellion.</p> -<p>The iron manufactory has long been carried on in this forest; -and to this day immense beds of iron cinders are found, the -reliques of the Romans. These cinders are not half -exhausted of their ore, and are consequently worked over again: a -proof that the Romans knew only the weak power of the foot -blast. As we drew near</p> -<h3><a name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -25</span>NEWNHAM</h3> -<p>the Severn became more considerable. The town, situated -on the banks of the river, and backed by the forest of Dean, is -very ancient, and in the year 1018, this manor was granted by -King Canute to the Benedictine abbey of Pershore, in -Worcestershire. <a name="citation25"></a><a href="#footnote25" -class="citation">[25]</a> The churchyard affords a variety -of objects worthy the attention of the passing stranger, amongst -which the church of Westbury forms the most conspicuous feature -in the landscape. The view, previous to our descending the -hill to</p> -<h3>LIDNEY</h3> -<p>is extensive and beautiful. In this place iron-works are -carried on by Mr. Pitchcock. About a mile from Lidney, the -Old Passage,—King’s Road, with the merchant ships -lying off Bristol,—Gloucestershire and Somersetshire hills, -studded with gentlemen’s seats, churches, and half-seen -cottages, form a cheerful landscape.</p> -<h3>CHEPSTOW.</h3> -<p>The weather prevented our seeing the celebrated walks of -Piercefield, but we promised ourselves the pleasure of visiting -them on our return down the Wye. The castle of Chepstow, -called Cagwent, or Castell Gwent, stands on a rock washed by the -river Wye, near its influx into the Severn. Topographical -writers differ in their accounts concerning the antiquity of the -castle, but it is generally supposed to have been built at the -same time with the town, appearing at that period to <a -name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>have been a -kind of citadel to Chepstow. <a name="citation26"></a><a -href="#footnote26" class="citation">[26]</a> The castle was -formerly of great extent, as, according to Leland’s -account, the “waulles began at the end of the great bridge -over Wy,” yet, “in the castel ys one tower, as I have -heard say, by the name of Langine.” Little now -remains of its former grandeur: but, impelled by an irresistible -curiosity, we ascended the decayed steps of the tower, from -whence the eye traced with pleasure the windings of the Wye, till -it was at last lost in conjunction with the Severn. We -examined the apartments in which Henry Marten, one of the -regicides, who sat to condemn King Charles I., was confined -twenty years.</p> -<p>Grand views of the Bristol Channel still continued to form -interesting objects from the road; but about three miles from -Chepstow, we turned into some fields on the right, to examine the -ivy-mantled walls of</p> -<h3>CALDECOT CASTLE.</h3> -<p>On our first entrance, we gazed with that rapt astonishment, -which fears to disturb, or be disturbed, by the mutual -communication of thought. Mr. Warner, in his survey of this -ruin, was much disappointed; but I cannot help allowing, although -the view from it was inferior to Chepstow, that its antiquated -walls wear a nobler appearance; and the gloom that reigns around -it forces a sigh, and evinces the transitory nature of sublunary -greatness. The antiquity of the building is very -obscure. Passing through the village of Caldecot, we soon -entered</p> -<h3><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -27</span>CAERWENT,</h3> -<p>on the western side, through the broken fragments of its -walls, of which one immense mass has recently fallen. This -ancient town is now a village, with a few scattered cottages, but -was formerly celebrated, under the auspices of Agricola, for its -temples, theatre, porticoes, and baths; few vestiges of its -former splendour are now extant. A few fragments of loose -stones only remain to point out its former extent. In an -orchard, adjoining a farm-house belonging to Mr. Lewis, is the -beautiful tesselated Roman pavement, discovered in the year -1777. The tesseræ or dies, about an inch in breadth, -and half in depth, are nearly square, consisting of four colours, -red, yellow, blue, and white, <a name="citation27"></a><a -href="#footnote27" class="citation">[27]</a> which are still in -great preservation; the whole is surrounded with a border, much -resembling a Turkey carpet. The daily depredations on these -curious remains of antiquity are greatly to be lamented.</p> -<p>In the road from Caerwent, amongst other objects for -admiration, the mansion of Sir Robert Salusbury, on the left, -commanding an extensive view, attracted our notice. Passing -through the neat village of Christ-church, animated with -white-washed cottages, and graced with its simple church, which -stands on an eminence, we left the turnpike-road at the -thirteenth mile-stone; and following a footpath through some -fields, near the banks of the Usk, soon entered the ancient city -of Caerleon.</p> -<h3>CAERLEON</h3> -<p>has been celebrated in all ages of British History. It -was <a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>a -Roman city of great power, strength, and importance, under the -name of <i>Isca Silurum</i>, and their chief station in the -country of the <i>Silures</i>; and equally, and perhaps still -more known, for having been King Arthur’s seat of -government: a prince, equally renowned in history, chivalry, and -poetry. This city was formerly a metropolitan see, but -Saint David, the national saint of Wales, thinking the noisy -intercourse of a populous city, like Caerleon, ill adapted for -contemplation, or the solitary cast of his mind, removed it to -Minevia, which from that period has been called Ty Dewi by the -Welch, and Saint David by the English. <a -name="citation28"></a><a href="#footnote28" -class="citation">[28]</a> The remains of its ancient -grandeur are still discernible. Whilst tracing the extent -of its amphitheatre, surrounded by a circular entrenchment, we -took a retrospect on the exertions of man, the fate of kingdoms, -and of rulers; and, marking the grand destruction of ages, it -seemed to convince us of the transientness of human worth and -happiness!</p> -<p>Re-ascending Christ-church hill we had a fine view of the -county of Monmouth like a map beneath us. Near</p> -<h3>NEWPORT</h3> -<p>a new stone bridge has been erected by contract for ten -thousand one hundred and sixty-five pounds, by Mr. Edwards, son -to the Edwards who built the famous Pont-y-pridd. It -consists of five arches.</p> -<p>The commerce and population of this town are greatly <a -name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>increased of -late years. As a sea-port it is safe; its chief trade is in -iron and coal. The Monmouthshire Canal communicates here by -a basin with the Usk river, and by that means with the Bristol -Channel; and as the Monmouthshire Canal again communicates with -the Brecon Canal and the Avon, Ebwy and other rail roads, Newport -becomes the grand depôt for the heavier articles of trade -of that part of the interior of South Wales. The Crumlin -bridge branch is eleven miles five furlongs, its falls three -hundred and sixty-five feet. Pontypool, eleven miles, falls -four hundred and forty-seven feet. Brecknock, thirty-seven -miles seven furlongs.</p> -<p>A circuitous, but more romantic route from Chepstow to -Newport, is re-crossing the Wye, passing over the forest of Dean, -through Saint Briaval’s to Monmouth. The road is not -bad, but narrow; if travelling with a carriage, it will be -necessary to be provided with a horn, which, upon your sounding, -if you find answered, you must wait till the party so answering -comes past.</p> -<p>The views to the right over the Severn and Gloucestershire are -most rich and extensive, and those from the summits of the -overhanging rocks of the Wye, awful and terrific: before you -reach Monmouth the country becomes thickly inhabited, which the -beautiful situations it affords readily accounts for; and from -Monmouth to Ragland and Usk the same continues to be the -case.</p> -<h3>RAGLAND CASTLE,</h3> -<p>one of the finest ruins in Wales, (for although Monmouthshire -is now an English county, it formerly was Welch,) stands near the -village of that name: it may be <a name="page30"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 30</span>pleasantly and leisurely viewed in -the day, with Usk and Caerleon, affording time to reach -Newport.</p> -<p>The first view of it is considerably impeded by the -surrounding trees, but the closer inspection presents such a mass -of ruin as well proves its ancient strength and grandeur. -From the citadel, which lies to the south of the main building, -the communication was by a drawbridge over the moat, by which it -was surrounded; it was a hexagon, apparently five stories high, -and of much strength, with bastions.</p> -<p>Round the citadel were raised walks, and in the walls are -small recesses. A stone staircase still remains, leading to -the top of one of the towers, from which not only the ruins, but -the adjacent country, are viewed to much advantage. The two -courts of the castle both communicate with the terrace.</p> -<p>The main entrance is magnificent, much overhung with ivy; the -gothic portal is defended by two massive towers, and the building -being faced with hewn free-stone, exhibits a less desolate aspect -than it would otherwise do. The whole range of offices and -apartments appears to have been on a splendid scale, and the -building shows various specimens of architecture, from the time -of Henry the Fifth to that of Charles the First.</p> -<p>The large banqueting hall divides the two courts; it still -retains the arms of the Marquis of Worcester, with the motto -“Mutare vel timere sperno.”</p> -<p>During the civil wars, Henry, first Marquis of Worcester, -several times afforded a refuge to Charles the First, but at -length, when that monarch’s fortune was past retrieving, -Ragland Castle, after having been various <a -name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>times -summoned by detachments of the Parliamentary forces, was -regularly invested and taken by Sir Thomas Fairfax; a window is -still shewn through which a girl in the garrison, by waving a -handkerchief, introduced his troops. The aged marquis was -sent prisoner to London, where he died in the 85th year of his -age, and his property having been confiscated, and the castle -dismantled, it became a prey to his own tenantry, who pulled it -down for the sake of the materials, but more particularly for the -staircases, of which they removed above twenty.</p> -<p>At the Restoration, this, with other estates, was restored to -the family, but in such a state of ruin, that being considered -unworthy their repairing, it was left as an object of pillage to -the vicinity, which it has but lately, since its ruins have -become venerable, ceased from being. It appertains to the -noble house of Beaufort.</p> -<p>The library, which was here destroyed by the mad fanatic -soldiery of Cromwell, is greatly to be regretted, as it possessed -Welch manuscripts of great importance; the collection was very -large, and the loss not to be estimated, many being unique.</p> -<p>The domain appertaining to this princely residence was very -extensive, and well arranged, and in Ragland Church are still to -be seen the vestiges of splendid memorials erected for Marquises -of Worcester, and other noble personages.</p> -<h3>USK, or CASTRUM ISCA,</h3> -<p>which is the next place of note on the route, is believed to -be the Burrium of the Romans. It was formerly a <a -name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>place of much -note; its situation is low, but capable of being rendered most -beautiful, its surrounding scenery holding forth the most -tempting lures to improve nature by art, at a trifling -expense.</p> -<p>The Usk is here become a noble river, and its fish, -particularly its salmon, are held in the highest -estimation. Along the river is a beautiful walk to the -ruins of the castle, from which you gain a fine view of the town, -and the surrounding slopes and heights, and in few places is to -be seen so large a body of clear water, in so expanded and rapid -a stream. At the time of our visit it was not the season -for fishing, but I must confess, I sighed to leave it behind -me. To the fly-fisher few places hold forth such -inducements to settle as Usk. I fancied myself in a Swiss -valley where I could cultivate my vines, my lavender, and my -roses, supply my table with exquisite fish and game, enjoy pure -air, and a fine climate.</p> -<p>The best and pleasantest road to Caerleon is over the bridge -to Llanbaddock, three furlongs; by Llangibby Castle, and -Llangibby, one mile two furlongs; to Lanhenock, three miles; -Caerleon, two miles fseven furlongs; Newport, five miles.</p> -<h3>CAERLEON</h3> -<p>boasts numerous inducements to stay the progress of the -antiquary; it is by some called the Isca Augusta, or Isca Colonia -of the Romans, and was a principal garrison, being the head -quarters or main station of the second Augustan legion, having -under it numerous other stations.</p> -<p>Mr. Cox states the shape of this ancient city to be an oblong -square, three sides straight, the fourth curved; <a -name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>the south -angle is near the end of the Round Table field, where the walls -are nearly twelve feet thick; the south-west side passes the -amphitheatre parallel to the Usk; the walls are again to be -traced by the Broadway along the Benhouse field; the west angle -runs alongside the Malpas road; on this flank a gateway leads to -Goldcroft common; the north angle forms part of a stable in the -New Inn yard, is again visible in the Castle yard, and turns the -east angle near a rail-road by the Castle ditch; hence the line -curves again, touches on the foss of the Castle, passes through -gardens, &c. and is lost in a lane near the quay till it -again becomes discernible near the south angle. The -circumference of the walls, in which there appear to have been -four gates, one in the centre of each flank, was about 1800 -feet.</p> -<p>It was a station of the Prætor, and its splendid -palaces, its stately edifices and gilded roofs, might, according -to Giraldus Cambrensis’ exaggerated account, have vied with -those of Rome itself; its baths, its aqueducts, its stoves, and -proofs of ancient grandeur, were even in his time amply displayed -in their ruins; numerous are the coins that have been here -collected, and the riches this spot has afforded to the cabinets -of the curious.</p> -<p>Between Caerleon and Newport is St. Julians, once the -residence of Lord Herbert of Cherbury: the walk to it in fine -weather is pleasant, and although now converted into a farmhouse, -traces of its former respectability are evident. In a small -barn near to it are likewise to be seen the remains of St. -Julian’s abbey. According to some accounts, such was -the extent of Caerleon in the days of its grandeur, that it -extended as <a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -34</span>far as Christ Church and this place, and covered a tract -of country nine miles in circumference.</p> -<p>Ascending the Gam, the ships in the Bristol Channel, with the -islands Flat and Steep Holmes rising in the midst of the sea, and -the shores of Somerset and Devon, formed pleasing objects in the -distant view, whilst the mellow green of nearer woods and -meadows, watered by the Usk, made a combination of views gay and -beautiful.</p> -<p>Newport Castle, standing on the bank of the river Usk, is a -small distance from the bridge: it evidently appears to have been -once a place of considerable extent, and built for the defence of -the passage over the river; three strong towers commanded the -Usk, but towards the town, a common wall, without any flanks, -seems to have been its sole defence. Some of the windows -still remain, the relics of Gothic architecture, and appear to -have been elegantly decorated. From the tower is a fine -view of the Usk. Between Newport and</p> -<h3>CARDIFF</h3> -<p>we crossed the little stream of Ebwith, near the Park of -Tredegar House, belonging to Sir Charles Morgan. The -grounds are well planned, and command the hills of Machen and -Twynbarlwm, with the Church of Bassaleg rising in the centre, on -an eminence. The whole valley, indeed, lies prettily. -Passing through the villages of Pediston and Castletown, we soon -reached the bridge of two arches, over the river Romney, which -divides England from Wales.</p> -<p>The situation of Cardiff is on a low flat, near the <a -name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>mouth of the -Taff, over which is a bridge, built by Mr. Parry, in the year -1796: it consists of three large and two smaller arches. -The tower of the Church is very light, and of elegant -workmanship; but there is nothing in the inside worthy of -notice.</p> -<p>The Castle derives its name from the river Taff, which washes -its walls; Caertaph signifying the town or castle upon -Taff. Robert Fitzham, on having conquered Glamorganshire, -divided the country into different portions, among twelve Norman -knights, as a reward for their service, took for his own share -the town of Cardiff, and erected, in the year 1110, this Castle, -in which he generally resided, and held his court of chancery and -exchequer. In the beginning of May, 1645, during the -troubles under King Charles I., it was in the possession of the -Royalists, but it was surrendered to the Parliament before -August, 1646.</p> -<p>We entered the Castle by two strong gates, which still remain -in great preservation, but we were displeased with the modern -architecture of the new-built mansion; the neat shorn grass and -the gravel walk were circumstances that ill accorded with the -mutilated walls of an ancient ruin, which has braved the storms -of so many centuries. The circumstance which tends to -insure this castle a melancholy place in history, is the unjust -confinement of Robert, Duke of Normandy, brother to William -Rufus, and King Henry I. The accounts, however, of his -confinement have been greatly exaggerated by historians; but a -dark vaulted room beneath the level of the ground, measuring -nearly a square of fifteen feet and a half, is still pointed out -as the place of his confinement; a small <a -name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>crevice in -the top, about half a yard in length, and three inches wide, was -the only place to admit the air. In this situation he died, -after an imprisonment of twenty-six years, and was buried in -Gloucester Cathedral, where his effigy, as large as life, carved -in Irish oak, and painted, is yet shown.</p> -<p>The Keep, which is still very perfect, of an octagon shape, -stands on an eminence in the centre of a large square. -Having walked round the ramparts, which command extensive views -of the adjacent country, we visited the Castle itself, which has -within these few years been repaired, but still remains in an -unfinished state.</p> -<p>In the dining-room are some portraits, in length, of the -Windsor family: the most striking are, Sir William, who first -raised forces for Queen Mary. Sir Edward, who first entered -the breach, at the taking of St. Quintin, in Flanders, where the -famous constable De Montmorency was taken prisoner.</p> -<p>In the breakfast parlour is a family piece, consisting of -seven figures: it was painted in the year 1568. Holbein, I -rather imagine, was the painter: it consists of two sisters -playing at cards, and two brothers at drafts, with Edward, Earl -of Windsor, and his lady, looking on. The style is stiff, -with ruffs, small black caps and feathers.</p> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Andrew Windsor, to the right of the fire-place; general in -the reign of Queen Anne, serving in the twenty-eighth regiment of -foot</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Kneller</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Thomas Windsor to the left, who served in several wars of -William and Queen Anne, and was colonel of the third regiment of -Dragoon guards, in the reign of King George I.</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Kneller</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -37</span>Lady Ursula Windsor</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Kneller</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hon. Master Windsor</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Unknown</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>A good painting of Ursula, Countess of Windsor, with her -grand-daughter Ursula Windsor</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Kneller</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Thomas, Lord Windsor, governor of Jamaica.</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Vandyke</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hon. Charlotta Windsor</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Dahl</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hon. Ursula Windsor</p> -</td> -<td><p><i>Ibid</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan='2'><p>Hon. Dixia Windsor, storekeeper of the -ordnance, and for six successive parliaments member for -Cambridge.</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This Castle belongs to the Marquis of Bute. In this -place, Robert, Earl of Gloucester, founded a priory of White -Friars, and another of Black, which continued till the reign of -King Henry VIII. Only the shell of the White Friars is now -extant, and the ruins of the Black Friars are inhabited by -fishermen. It has only one church, which is of Norman -architecture, with a rich and handsome west door, and an elegant -tower.</p> -<p>The races at Cardiff, in October, are very good, and with the -balls, are frequented by a brilliant display of beauty and -fashion; the ordinaries are likewise well attended by the -principal nobility and gentry of the country, and are very -good.</p> -<p>From Cardiff we walked to inspect the remains of the once -celebrated city of</p> -<h3>LLANDAFF.</h3> -<p>The ruins of the old Cathedral are very beautiful; the -door-cases are all Norman architecture, elegantly moulded; two of -which, on the north and south sides, are fine specimens of that -order. All the other parts are <a name="page38"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 38</span>Gothic: the nave is unroofed. -Within these ruins we entered the Cathedral, which carries with -it more the appearance of a modern theatre than a place of divine -worship, so erroneous was the taste of the architect, in -combining with the sacred Gothic a fantastical work of his -own. Among several ancient monuments, are two very elegant -ones of the Mathews family, <a name="citation38a"></a><a -href="#footnote38a" class="citation">[38a]</a> whose descendants -own the site of the bishop’s castle, of which only the gate -remains: the rest, with the archdeacon’s house, was -destroyed by Owen Glendour. <a name="citation38b"></a><a -href="#footnote38b" class="citation">[38b]</a> There are -likewise the monuments of two Bishops, with another, and the -figure of Lady Godiva, full length, carved in marble on it.</p> -<p>The present cathedral was built by Bishop Urban, about the -year 1107: its length is two hundred and sixty-three feet and a -half, breadth sixty-five feet, and height one hundred and -nineteen feet; like Bangor, it has no cross aisle.</p> -<p>Near this city is the rural village and the castle of St. -Fajans, celebrated for a sanguinary battle, fought in its -vicinity between the Royalists and Republicans, during the -Protectorate of Cromwell, in which the former were defeated with -the loss of nearly the whole of their troops. Llandaff, -although it ranks as an episcopal city, and was one of the first -places in the British dominions in which a religious -establishment was founded, boasting the erection of its first -church <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 186, is now little -better than a village dependant on Cardiff for its supplies: even -its clergy find few inducements to draw their attention <a -name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>to it, beyond -what duty requires: they possess a chapter-room, kitchen, and -office for the Proctor-general, yet seldom meet more than once a -year for the audit.</p> -<p>Llandaff stands on a small eminence, commanding a view of -Cardiff and the surrounding country.—We returned again to -Cardiff, and the first six miles of our road to</p> -<h3>CAERPHILY</h3> -<p>were not very interesting, till ascending Thorn Hill, the -beauties of the vale below, with the Flat and Steep Holmes rising -in the distant prospect, the ruins of Cardiff Castle, and the -ivy-mantled walls of Llandaff cathedral, amply compensated for -the trouble of climbing this eminence. A little farther on, -Caerphily Castle burst upon our sight, and</p> -<blockquote><p>—“seemed to frown<br /> -In awful majesty on all around.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The founder, and the time of its erection, are very uncertain; -but I refer my readers to the first volume of the -<i>Archæologia</i>; to an ingenious Dissertation, by Daines -Barrington, where it is satisfactorily proved to have been the -work of King Edward I. This castle is one of the noblest -ruins of ancient architecture now remaining in the kingdom, and -exceeds all in bigness, except that of Windsor. The hall -and the chapel may still be traced; the former measures about -seventy feet in length, thirty-four in breadth, and seventeen in -height. The roof is vaulted about eight feet high, and -supported by twenty arches. On the north side is a chimney -ten <a name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>feet -wide, with two windows on each side, extending down to the floor, -and carried above the supposed height of this room. At each -angle was originally a round tower of four stories, communicating -with each other by a gallery. On the west side of the hall -stairs is a low round tower, of one story, called the Mint-house, -with three painted arches on the south side, and a square well on -the west. The leaning tower, towards the east end, more -particularly engaged our notice: it is divided into two separate -parts by a large fissure, which runs from the top down almost to -the middle. Its lineal projection is supposed to be on the -outer side about eleven feet and a half. On the west and -north are visible vestiges of a draw-bridge.</p> -<p>The east wall, on the south side of the principal entrance, is -fluted between the buttresses, with battlements on their tops, to -protect the intermediate walls.</p> -<p>This castle was that to which the Spensers retired in the -reign of Edward II. but being taken, there were discovered within -the walls, 2,000 fat oxen, 12,000 cows, 25,000 calves, 30,000 fat -sheep, 600 horses, 2,000 fat hogs; besides 2,000 beeves, 600 -sheep, and 1,000 hogs salted: 200 tons of wine, 40 tons of cider, -and wheat for 2,000 men for four years.</p> -<p>We now came to the celebrated</p> -<h3>VALE OF GLAMORGAN,</h3> -<p>so justly styled the Garden of South Wales: the rapid Taff -forms an almost continued uproar for many miles; on the opposite -side the mountains rose almost perpendicularly in a massy wall, -and sometimes to the water’s <a name="page41"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 41</span>edge, finely clothed with wood. -Every circumstance conspired to heighten the solitary grandeur of -the scene, and to prolong the luxurious melancholy which the -views inspired. In this celebrated vale is found the famous -Pont-y-prid, or New Bridge, about three quarters of a mile from -the Duke of Bridgewater’s Arms. This wonderful bridge -of one arch is the segment of a circle; the chord of it is one -hundred and forty feet, and the height of the key-stone from the -spring of the arch, thirty-two feet and a half. It was -erected in the year 1750, by William Edwards, a country mason, -who failed in his attempt three times, till he lightened the -abutments; it has resisted for many years the torrents of the -Taff.</p> -<p>This bridge, which in its present state is nearly useless, -might, at a very trifling expense, be made as useful as it is -wonderful; but the river, which is at most times fordable, -renders this perhaps unnecessary. Till this bridge was -erected, the Rialto at Venice was esteemed the largest arch in -Europe; its span or chord being ninety-eight feet: but this -bridge is forty-two feet wider; being, it is supposed, the -largest arch in the world.</p> -<p>Wales is generally remarkable for its white-washed cottages, -the origin of which custom is attributed to Glamorganshire: the -cleanliness, as far as this county is concerned, is chiefly on -the outside; but so great is their attachment to lime white, that -even the stone garden-wall, the pig-sty, or any stone within -moderate distance of the cottage, receives its due share of -attention; in some parts even the blue slate roof, which to the -eyes of an Englishman forms a happy contrast to the whitened <a -name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>wall, is -offensive to the eyes of the Welsh, and the roof undergoes the -same process as the walls.</p> -<p>The intrusion of art in this romantic valley, where nature has -been so lavish of her beauties, is much to be lamented. A -canal, for the purpose of conveying the iron from the Merthyr -works to Cardiff, renders that a place of frequent business and -confusion, which was originally so well adapted to retirement and -reflection.</p> -<p>Not only the road from hence to Merthyr, but all the way from -Cardiff to that place, the road is esteemed amongst the best in -Wales; the views along it are likewise such as to keep the -attention alive, nature and art combining to give effect: in one -place the rapid Taff is seen breaking its way through the woody -cliffs, to the lowest level of the vale, and in the next instant -the boats are seen navigating the canal, which winds its course -most strangely round the mountain’s brow, three hundred -feet above the current of the Taff.</p> -<p>Long before you reach Merthyr, the blackened atmosphere points -out the site; but when immediately upon it, you are obliged to -inquire where it is, and the way to it: from Cardiff you approach -it by the Plymouth works, belonging to Mr. Hill: these lie wide -and scattered, and are still extending, the road passing through -them for a considerable distance; they are altogether worked by -water, forming various fine falls from the same source, viz. the -Taff.</p> -<p>After passing these, you appear entering on an extended suburb -to a large town; but the town itself is nowhere visible: it is -without form or order; in short, <a name="page43"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 43</span>to get to your inn you can scarcely -find your way along the main road; for to dignify it with the -name of street, is more than it merits; yet here is collected -together a larger and more bustling population than any other -town in the principality can boast; its markets are large, well -attended, and more than reasonable; its shopkeepers are numerous -and thriving; and all that seems to be required to make this town -one of the most respectable in the principality is a little -attention to order and cleanliness: the lower classes, it is -true, are miserably poor; still, even about the iron-works, there -are so many better provided for, and so much money is monthly put -into circulation, that but little trouble would be wanted to make -it assume the appearance, as well as enjoy the reality, of being -a populous busy town of trade.</p> -<p>The largest works at Merthyr are the Cyfartha, belonging to -Mr. Crawshay: these now consist of six blast furnaces, and two -near the town, with fineries, air and puddling furnaces, mill -forges, &c. in proportion. The blast is furnished by a -steam engine of eighty-horse power and an immense overshot -water-wheel, fifty feet in diameter, by seven feet in width: this -wheel rests on gudgeons, which weigh one hundred tons: it -consumes about twenty-five tons of water per minute; part of the -water is brought a considerable distance along a trough supported -by stone pillars; the rest is furnished from the Taff.</p> -<p>The gudgeons of all the wheels, and of such parts of the -machine where there is any friction, have water continually -running over them, to prevent their taking fire. It is the -particular office of one man to grease every part <a -name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>of the -machine whilst in motion; to accomplish which, he is frequently -obliged to ride on an iron bar, similar to the lever of a pump -when in motion, a considerable way from the ground. The -whole of this machinery is worked by water, not more than a foot -deep, which is conveyed by a long spout to the top of the wheel, -where it discharges itself. The ore, lime-stone, and coals, -which they use to promote the fusion of the ore, are all found on -the spot. The ore, previous to its being thrown into the -furnace, is burnt in a common lime-pit; the goodness of it is -afterwards proved, by its adhesion to the tongue: the coal is all -charked, and continually put into the furnace with certain -proportions of ore. From the pigs, the iron is rolled into -flat plates by a cylinder; this is performed with the greatest -despatch. The gaunt figures of the workmen excite both pity -and terror, and the sallow countenances and miserable air of the -people prove it is a labour very prejudicial to their health.</p> -<p>Mr. Crawshay employs upwards of five thousand men in his works -only; but to form an estimate of the numbers employed, and the -produce of iron afforded, I subjoin the following list of the -principal works in the vales from Abergavenny to Neath, each -furnace producing, on an average, from forty-five to seventy tons -of iron per week. The two large furnaces, belonging to -Messrs. Crawshay, near to Merthyr, are said to have furnished, -for a short period, upwards of one hundred tons each per -week.</p> -<h4>FURNACES.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Clydac, or Llanelly (in the parish of latter)</p> -</td> -<td></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Freer</p> -</td> -<td><p>2 furnaces</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p><a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -45</span>Blenavon, Hill</p> -</td> -<td><p>4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>The Varteg</p> -</td> -<td><p>2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nant eglo, Bayley</p> -</td> -<td><p>4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaufort, Kendal</p> -</td> -<td><p>3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ebro Vale, Harford</p> -</td> -<td><p>2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Sirhowy, Harford</p> -</td> -<td><p>2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tredegar, S. Homfray and Co.</p> -</td> -<td><p>5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Romney, Mrs. Hall</p> -</td> -<td><p>2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dowlass, Guest and Co.</p> -</td> -<td><p>8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penydarran, Forman and Thompson</p> -</td> -<td><p>5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cyfartha, Crawshays</p> -</td> -<td><p>8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plymouth, R. I. and A. Hill</p> -</td> -<td><p>5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberdare, formerly Thompson and Scales, now Scales and -Co.</p> -</td> -<td><p>3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Abernant, ditto, Tappendens</p> -</td> -<td><p>1</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hirwaen</p> -</td> -<td><p>2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan='2'><p>Myers and company, four miles short of Neath, -charcoal furnace, &c.</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The immense collections of cinder, or refuse from the ore, -astonish the beholder: it appears almost incredible, that the -labour of man could transport such quantities of materials; but -when, added to this, you reflect that nearly the whole has passed -through the furnaces, and been moved two or three times, how much -is the wonder increased! In short, to witness what immense -capitals, indefatigable industry, and human ingenuity can -accomplish, in dragging forth the bowels of the earth, the vales -of the Taff from Brecon to Cardiff, and the very numerous vales -running parallel with the Taff, betwixt Abergavenny and Neath, -should be explored, both above <a name="page46"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 46</span>ground, and in the mines; the value -of the inclined planes and rail-roads only would be immense.</p> -<p>About three miles to the north-east of Merthyr are the remains -of Castle Morlais, an extensive and singular ruin: it was -originally a British post, afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of -Gloucester, in the reign of Edward I., and the source of a -quarrel betwixt that nobleman and Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of -Hereford, which brought down the anger of the monarch on both -their heads to such extent, as to subject them to fine and -imprisonment: it was so completely destroyed by the Parliamentary -army in the seventeenth century, that its form and extent are -difficult to trace; a small keep, or look-out, on the most -elevated part of its site, still, however, remains: its upper -story is much dilapidated; and the walls as well as roof nearly -destroyed, except the door-way and window, which are of -freestone: from the top of one of these the view of the Black -Mountains, &c. is most extensive: the lower apartment (part -of the vaulted roof of which has at length yielded to time, and -the injuries of the animals who have resorted to the upper -apartment for shelter) has once been curious; the arches, twelve -in number, which supported its roof sprang from a pillar in the -centre; the rib of the arch is freestone, and shows good masonry; -the wall is likewise rubbed stone, part of which has been -defaced, apparently to see if it communicated with any other part -of the castle, or contained any thing worthy the searching -for. The pleasantest way for an active person to ascend to -this ruin, is at the bridge above the Cyfartha works, to take the -right bank, ascending the little Taff: for some distance <a -name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>you pass -along the quarries, and at length reach a path cut through the -woods, along the banks of this romantic stream: the termination -of the path obliges you to incline to the right, and passing two -fields, you begin to ascend the hill between a stone wall and -extensive lime-stone quarries, belonging to the Pendarren -works. The ascent is steep; but if fine, you are amply -repaid, on reaching the summit, by the extensive views you -command. Dowlass works, which, as well as Cyfartha, have -eight furnaces, are seen from here to great advantage. The -descent to Merthyr, along the rail-road from the lime-stone -quarries you passed in ascending, is easy and pleasant, running -alongside the beautiful grounds of Mr. Forman, formerly belonging -to Mr. S. Homfray, and which a former tourist describes as -containing all of elegance or comfort that Merthyr can boast -of. From hence we travelled the road to Pont Neath Vechan, -the first part of which is hilly, rough, and through a barren -country; but the latter half is rich in scenery, sublime and -awful, from pendent rocks and gushing cataracts, and worthy the -time and observation of the admirer of nature’s -beauties.</p> -<h3>PONT NEATH VECHAN.</h3> -<p>About a mile and a half from Vechan we unexpectedly descended -by an excellent road through a wood into a rich romantic valley, -watered by Neath river. In this retired situation we found -the Angel inn, of Pont Neath Vechan. Description can -scarcely suggest the full grandeur and magnificence of this -valley: woods, rocks, and waterfalls, all unite to render it -beautiful. Our Cicerone <a name="page48"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 48</span>first conducted us to the fall of -Scotenogam, on the river Purthen, about a mile and a half from -the house. This fall we saw to great advantage: the river, -having gathered in its course the accumulation of many torrents -after the rain, precipitated itself into one majestic expanse of -water, near seventy feet high; whilst the dark lowering rocks, on -each side, contrasted finely with the varied vegetation around -us. The descent is by no means easy; but the grandeur of -the scene amply compensated for all difficulties. Our -Cicerone next conducted us to a very inferior one, called the -Lady’s Cascade, on the river Neath; but of this we caught a -very indifferent prospect, the ascent of the mountain being -inaccessible, and the water too high to admit of our obtaining a -due inspection of it. We then returned to our inn, and set -out on a different road, in quest of nature’s -landscapes.—Having walked about three miles, we heard the -angry roar of small cascades; these we considered preludes to -scenes of nature’s grandest cast, where the rushing -waterfall swells into a torrent; and accordingly we soon found -ourselves near the fall of Lower Culhepste. The character -of this cataract differs very much from that of Scotenogam; being -broken in its descent from projecting rocks, of an immense -size. About a quarter of a mile from hence we descended a -rugged and steep rock, to examine the fall of Upper Culhepste, -about fifty feet high. The singularity of this fall invites -the curiosity of the traveller more than any other in Wales: the -whole river precipitates itself with such violence, as to leave a -space between the rock and the fall sufficiently wide for a -horse-path. Though in less than two minutes we were <a -name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>completely -wet by the spray, yet the effect was awful and sublime; and it -was necessary to remember the fixed foundation of the rocks above -our heads, to soften the awe they inspired. “The -effect of sunshine on the cascade,” says Mr. Malkin, -“when behind it on a fine day, is both grand and -beautiful. The particles of water glittering with a silvery -brightness, as they fall; the uncommon brilliancy of every thing -without, seen through such a medium, contrasted with the dark -green of the moss, everlastingly wet with spray; the corroded -dinginess of the rock; the damp and vaporous gloom of the -atmosphere within; altogether form a singularly mingled scene of -awe and gaiety.”</p> -<p>Near this fall is Porthogo Cavern, through which the river -Vendre runs. The water was too high to admit our entrance; -our conductor, however, informed us he had penetrated about half -a mile, but found the river wind so many ways, he judged it safer -to return, lest he should share the fate of a poor man, who lost -himself in this cavern for the space of three days. On our -return a very intelligent gentleman, staying in the -neighbourhood, strenuously recommended us to descend a steep -mountain, on our left, to survey a curious quadrangular strata of -marble in the rock below. With some difficulty we effected -our purpose, having waded twice through the river. This -strata in Welsh is called <i>bwr maen</i>, which signifies a -stone bow: it is situated close to the river Dynnas, which, -forcing its way through some broken fragments of the rock, forms -a cascade a little above. The price offered for this grey -marble, in London, is fifteen shillings a foot square.</p> -<p><a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>About -five miles from Vechan, is the seat of Mrs. Holbrow, on the -right. We were prevented visiting the waterfalls of -Melincourt and Aperdulas, the river, owing to the late floods, -being too deep to ford. Our route still continued through -the valley we had so much admired the evening before. As we -drew near</p> -<h3>NEATH,</h3> -<p>the tower of Knole Castle had a pleasing effect from a -distance: it was built by Sir Herbert Mackworth, and is at -present in the possession of H. I. Grant, Esq. The windows -from the banqueting-room command a circle of many miles in -diameter, composed of Neath valley and river, with the smoky town -of Neath—the Mumbles’ Point—Swansea, and the -Channel. The artificial cascade is well contrived; but, -after the foaming torrents of Scotenogam and Culhepste, appears -very tame.</p> -<p>The site of the refectory, the chapel, the hall, and several -other rooms, in the ruins of Neath Abbey, may still be -traced. It stands on the east of the river, and was -formerly, by Leland’s account, the “fairest abbey of -all Wales;” but in his Collectanea <a -name="citation50"></a><a href="#footnote50" -class="citation">[50]</a> he seems to give Margam the preference -of all the Cistercian houses in these parts. It was founded -for white monks, by Richard de Granville. About the time of -its dissolution it contained only eight monks, and was valued at -132<i>l.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 7<i>d.</i> per annum. In this abbey -the unfortunate King Edward II. secreted himself in the year -1326, when prevented, by contrary winds, from his intended escape -to <a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -51</span>Ireland; he was soon, however, discovered, and confined -in the castle of Kenilworth, under the custody of the Earl of -Leicester. Near the ruins are the copper-works: the ore is -chiefly imported from Cornwall and Wicklow in Ireland; being -calcined, and thereby losing its sulphur, it is refined by the -simple process of frequent melting, and taking off the dross, -which forms a scum: lastly, being moulded into small plates, or -pigs, it is shipped for the market. The method of reducing -the metal, when melted, into small particles, is by pouring it -into water; and when thus reduced, it is called -copper-shot. Brass is a compound of copper thus reduced, -and lapis calaminaris pulverized in crucibles, and moulded or -cast into plates. Lapis calaminaris is dug in great -quantities near Holywell, in Flintshire.</p> -<p>Neath, although surrounded by beautiful scenery, is itself -unpleasantly situated: it is low, the streets narrow, the -buildings old, and there is in the first view of it an air of -desertion and poverty, that sets the traveller against it; yet it -possesses some trade as a sea-port, in coals, iron, and copper, -for which it is now considerably indebted to its canal, which -communicates betwixt Aberdare and Britton Ferry. The ruins -of the castle still exist, but possess no particular merit, -derived either from strength, beauty, or antiquity. A -navigable canal has been made to communicate with all the -interior parts of the country to Pont Nedd Vechan. The -market days at Neath are Wednesdays and Saturdays. It is -one hundred and ninety-six miles one furlong from London. -Near Neath is Cringell, the residence of William Davis, Esq. -author of a History of this County; and about a <a -name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>mile up the -vale of Neath is Cadoxton Lodge, near which is a cascade. -The road from hence to Swansea is very good, and not incommoded -by the smoke of the copper-works, as it was formerly; but for -horse or foot passengers, though more circuitous, there is a -pleasant way by</p> -<h3>BRITTON FERRY.</h3> -<p>This village is much resorted to, on account of its beautiful -situation; and many a white-washed cottage straggles through the -hamlet. The plantations of the Earl of Jersey, late Lord -Vernon’s, are well disposed, and edge the water’s -brink: the river is constantly filled with vessels, whose gay -streamers glittering to the sun-beam, present to the eye a -constant moving object. The richness and beauty of this -spot is scarcely to be equalled in all the principality: and the -climate is so mild, that myrtles, magnolias, fuschias, and other -tender exotics, grow luxuriantly in the open air. The -church-yard is very beautiful, and beneath the shade of its trees -a friend of the Editor of the present Edition wrote the following -lines:</p> -<blockquote><p>When death has stolen our dearest friends away,<br -/> -Some tears to shed is graceful:—but to mourn<br /> -Loudly and deeply, that their pains are o’er,<br /> -Is but to prove, we lov’d ourselves far more<br /> -Than e’er we cherish’d, lov’d, or valued -them.<br /> -To bear misfortune with an equal mind;<br /> -To mount the aspiring pinnacle of fame,<br /> -With a warm heart, and temperate resolve;<br /> -To curb the rage that prompts to wild revenge;<br /> -<a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>To pay the -malice of an envious throng<br /> -With pity and forgiveness; and to weep,<br /> -With tears of joy, that our most “useful” friend<br -/> -Has paid the debt Eternity demands,<br /> -Alike bespeak nobility of mind,<br /> -And the proud hope, that heaven’s decrees are just.<br /> -Stranger! of peasant or of royal line;<br /> -Treasure these thoughts, and Autumn’s yellow leaf<br /> -Shall never fill thine aged eyes with tears!</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Having crossed the Ferry, we proceeded on the sands to</p> -<h3>SWANSEA.</h3> -<p>The whole of this walk commanded a boundless view of the ocean -to the west, whilst to the south the faint hues of the -Somersetshire coast skirted the horizon.</p> -<p>Swansea, or Abertawe, is a well-built sea-port town, on the -river Tawe, much resorted to during the summer months. The -machines for bathing are kept about half a mile from the -town. The castle is supposed to have been erected by Henry, -Earl of Warwick, in the reign of King Henry I.; and is at present -the property of the Duke of Beaufort; the small arches round the -top of it are exactly similar to the buildings of Lantphey -castle, and King John’s Hall, St. David’s, -Pembrokeshire. This castle is now turned into a gaol and -workhouse. The market-place is said to be covered with the -lead of St. David’s cathedral, given by Cromwell to a -gentleman of Swansea.</p> -<p>The clay used for the pottery, long carried on in this place, -is brought from Corfe, in Dorsetshire: having been mixed with -finely-ground flint, and dissolved in <a name="page54"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 54</span>water, it is passed through sieves, -till it has lost all its coarser particles; then exposed to heat, -which evaporates the water, and leaves the clay of a consistency -sufficient for working. The vessel is first rudely formed -by the hand, the clay being stuck to a circular board, which has -an horizontal rotation. The other operation consists in the -more perfect forming of the work by various processes, and the -colouring, glazing, painting, and stamping; drying and baking -kilns complete the work.</p> -<p>The harbour of Swansea, which is large, has had great sums -expended upon it, without much judgment having been evinced in -the expenditure: the piers, which are extensive, are already -frequently wanting considerable repairs, and will always be a -source of emolument to those who know how to make the most of a -good job. Swansea Bay is beautiful, and the sail from -Swansea to Ilfracombe one of the pleasantest and cheapest I ever -enjoyed. The entrance into the latter harbour is grand and -terrific; the stupendous rocks by which it is sheltered and -enclosed impressing the mind, on a temperate day, with that -pleasing awe, which in a more tempestuous time, “when the -raging billows roar,” would amount to horror and -dismay. Ilfracombe affords comfortable accommodation to -remain at; but to remove inland, you have to send to Barnstaple -for a conveyance: it is a most romantic situation. Swansea -is seen to great advantage from the bay, its best front being -towards the Channel; it is a mixture of good and bad, of old -streets and new, wide and narrow, pride and poverty, much show -and little wealth. The market, which is on a Saturday, is -greatly improved of late years, and not only <a -name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>affords -comforts, but luxuries; yet Swansea, except to those who are -acquainted with it, is a more expensive place to reside at for a -short time than an English watering place: still those lodgings, -which are so highly rated during the season, are comfortable -retreats to half-pay officers during the winter months; and from -the mildness of the climate, and many families taking up their -residence at it during that period, Swansea, were it not for the -faults and greediness or mismanagement of some of its -inhabitants, would rise to wealth and respectability. The -playhouse is respectable, and the performers generally good, but -badly repaid for their exertions. The post-office here is -very regular, and conveyances to Bristol, Gloucester, or London, -although expensive, regular and safe. A walk may be -comfortably enjoyed in five minutes after a shower, or between -showers, without wet feet; and both drives and rides in the -vicinity are numerous and beautiful. The libraries are -good, well supplied, and civil, and the shops accommodating, and -plentifully stocked: still I should think the traveller would -take more money at Merthyr than Swansea, and four times as much -at that little high-spirited place, Caermarthen, as at either; -such at least must be the case, if any criterion is to be formed -from the quantum of circulating medium required, as gained from -the requisitions for the exchange of the new for the old coinage, -Caermarthen having wanted upwards of 20,000<i>l.</i> and Swansea -not having required 4,000<i>l.</i> The mail road to -Caermarthen is by Pontarddylais, nine miles; Llanon, four miles; -Caermarthen, thirteen. Swansea is about two hundred and -five miles from London. Its population <a -name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>consists of -10,255 inhabitants. It has some trade to the Baltic; and -more than 100,000 chaldrons of coals are annually exported.</p> -<h3>OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE,</h3> -<p>about five miles from Swansea, is finely situated on an -eminence, commanding a delightful prospect of the surrounding -country, and the Mumbles’ Bay. The ivy-mantled walls -of this castle are sufficiently perfect to distinguish what the -apartments were originally designed for. It formerly -belonged to the lords of Gower, but is now in the possession of -the Duke of Beaufort. It is a majestic ruin, standing in a -bold position, commanding a beautiful view of the country, the -Bay of Swansea, and surrounded by broken cliffs. The walls -are so little injured by time, that the design of the apartments -may easily be traced. The general figure is polygonal; the -ramparts lofty, but not flanked with towers, except just at the -entrance. It is a good specimen of the Gothic style; and is -ascribed to the Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry the -First. Our curiosity being satisfied, we hastened to -the</p> -<h3>MUMBLES,</h3> -<p>celebrated, far and near, for the goodness and abundance of -its oysters. This village stands at the extremity of -Swansea Bay, on a vast mass of splintered rock: from this -elevation the wide expanse of the ocean and Swansea Bay are -viewed to great advantage. These rocks are inaccessible at -high water, except in a boat; on the farthest is erected a -light-house, serviceable to the navigation <a -name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>of the -British Channel. The lodging-house above Oystermouth, -called Thistle-boon, commands a fine view of the Peninsula of -Gower; the Bay of Swansea on one side, and that of Caermarthen on -the other.</p> -<p>At Pennard we descended some immense sand-banks, which led us -into Oxwich Bay: at the head of the sandbanks are the small -remains of an old castle, <a name="citation57a"></a><a -href="#footnote57a" class="citation">[57a]</a> scarcely worthy of -observation. The sands in this bay are extremely fine, and -the bold projections of the rock exhibit Nature in her most awful -and impressive attitudes. To the right of Oxwich Bay is -situate, at Penrice, <a name="citation57b"></a><a -href="#footnote57b" class="citation">[57b]</a> the seat of Mr. -Talbot: the grounds are well planned, and command extensive views -of the sea: the old castle, rising behind the house, gave the -whole a fine effect. It has been converted into an -aviary. Lady Mary Talbot (now Cole), has the most beautiful -flower garden in the whole principality.</p> -<p>Between Penrice and the neat village of</p> -<h3>CHERITON,</h3> -<p>we observed to our right, on a hill, a large flat cromlech, -several tons weight, resting on about six smaller ones, placed -perpendicularly, and standing about five feet high: this is -vulgarly called King Arthur’s stone. The lifting of -this stone in its present place is mentioned in the Welsh -Historical Triads as one of the three arduous undertakings -accomplished in the Island of Britain. On a hill, opposite -our inn, we discovered evident vestiges <a -name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>of a Roman -encampment. From this elevation the eye caught a fine view -of Caermarthen Bay, and the bold promontory of Worm’s Head, -to the south-west: this rock is only accessible at low water.</p> -<p>The country through which we traversed for the four or five -last miles is inhabited by a colony of Flemings, who settled here -in the reign of King Henry I. In the reign of this -king’s father, a great number of Flemings having been -driven out of their habitations by a very extraordinary -inundation of the sea, sought protection in England, where they -were cordially received. But so many of these people being -dispersed in different parts of the kingdom, began, by the -increase of their numbers, to create some uneasiness; which King -Henry I. removed, by settling them as a colony in South Wales, -and gave them the country adjoining to Tenby and -Haverfordwest. By this wise policy the king rid his own -dominions of an incumbrance, and curbed the insolence of the then -rebellious Cambrians. <a name="citation58"></a><a -href="#footnote58" class="citation">[58]</a> The little -territory they inhabit is called <i>Gwyr</i>; and by the English, -Little England beyond Wales: because their manners and language -are still distinguishable from the Welsh, and in point of speech -assimilate the English. These Flemings, to this day, seldom -or never intermarry with the Welsh: they speak good English, and -are very much averse to the manners and language of the country -they inhabit; both sexes generally distinguish themselves by -wearing a short cloak, called <i>gowyr wittle</i>.</p> -<p>In preference to a long walk, of near thirty miles, we <a -name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>crossed the -river Bury, at Loughton, in the church-yard of which village we -found the following epitaph:</p> -<blockquote><p>The village maidens to her grave shall bring<br /> -Selected garlands, each returning spring:<br /> -Selected sweets! in emblem of the maid,<br /> -Who underneath this hallowed turf is laid:<br /> -Like her, they flourish, beauteous to the eye;<br /> -Like her, too soon, they languish, fade and die.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>From Loughor we proceeded to</p> -<h3>LLANELLY,</h3> -<p>a miserable dirty place, filled with miners and sailors. -From hence to</p> -<h3>KIDWELLY,</h3> -<p>the road leads over the Pembree hills; and from this elevation -the scenery is viewed to great advantage.</p> -<p>The castle of Kidwelly, otherwise Cathweli, was formerly, I -imagine, of great extent, and is still the most perfect we had -hitherto met with in Wales. The extent of the apartments is -distinguishable; some of the staircases accessible; and the four -round towers, keep, gateway, and yard, spread an awful gloom -around, whose beauties time had just sufficiently impaired, to -heighten its grandeur and sublimity. To this castle King -John retired, when at war with his Barons. Our guide -expatiated much on the history and events of the castle, and told -the story with as much agitation and interest as if it had -happened yesterday. The road to</p> -<h3><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -60</span>CAERMARTHEN</h3> -<p>we found unpleasantly hilly, but occasional valleys to our -left enlivened our walk. Near Caermarthen we crossed a -bridge of freestone over the Towy. This river, running -through the middle of this shire, falls into the British Sea at -Caermarthen Bay, and is navigable for small vessels as far as the -bridge. Immediately over it, upon a hanging rock, stand the -remains of a once renowned castle. This town was the site -of a Roman station, <i>Maridunum</i>, and, according to -Giraldus’s authority, was anciently a place of great -strength, and fortified with brick walls, which are yet partly -extant, near the river. This place, now considered as the -capital of the county, was formerly the residence of the Prince -of South Wales; and the ancient Britons here held their -parliaments. The chancery likewise, and exchequer for South -Wales, were kept here, when this territory was first erected into -a principality, by the crown of England. In the -thirty-eighth year of King Henry VIII. it was created a -borough-town.</p> -<p>No part of Wales can boast a more generous or higher-spirited -people than the gentry in the vicinity, and the inhabitants of -Caermarthen. Its trade is likewise considerable, as the -circumjacent country, for a very considerable distance, is -dependent upon it for the common luxuries, and what are now -deemed, even in Wales, necessaries of life, for which they bring -for sale or barter the most simple article of the native produce; -and you may frequently see the basket that has been brought for -miles, not contain a sixpenny-worth of herbs, eggs, &c.; <a -name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>yet this -trifle is to them of consequence, and enables them to add to the -little stock of tea, tape, or pins, which they require. The -busy scene of a Caermarthen market is highly interesting, -particularly to one fond of the study of political economy.</p> -<blockquote><p>“Man wants but little here below,<br /> -Nor wants that little long.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>How cheap must be the subsistence of a party who can walk -twelve or fourteen miles to earn sixpence, or disburse a shilling -or eighteen-pence, and how few must be their weekly wants which -so small a sum can satisfy! It is true they divide this -labour, and each take their turn of village or neighbourly -duty. The market of this place is not only extremely -reasonable, but excellent; hardly excelled in quality by any but -Worcester, the cleanliness and beauty of the exhibition of which -beats all England. Caermarthen has abundance of good meat, -fish, poultry, butter, wild-fowl, and game. In December, -1819, I bought three fine turkeys for nine shillings, fowls from -eightpence to one shilling each, and other things in proportion; -still the taxes are the same as in England, and good land is high -rented; but the wants of the tenantry are fewer; small farms are -abundant, and every cottage has its garden and plot of ground, as -well as waste land generally: fuel is likewise cheap.</p> -<p>The view from Caermarthen over the Towy is beautiful, and not -to be enjoyed any where to greater advantage than from the back -rooms of the Ivy Bush inn, or the terrace walk in the -garden. Its population is rated <a name="page62"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 62</span>at between 7 and 8000, and its houses -at about 1200. The market days are Saturday and -Wednesday. It is 231 miles from London, by Bristol, and 216 -by Gloucester.</p> -<p>The mail arrives from London at nine in the morning, and -departs at two o’clock in the afternoon generally. I -should feel it the height of ingratitude, if I had failed to -notice the great attention paid to strangers who attend divine -service at the church: not only are they immediately accommodated -in comfortable pews, but prayer-books are supplied to them by the -son of the clerk. In short, I witnessed a courtesy and -attention to strangers, and a backwardness to receive -remuneration, such as I never saw evinced at any other place.</p> -<p>The late Ivy Bush was the house of Sir Richard Steele, who -obtained it and his property in this neighbourhood by marriage -with the heiress of Jonathan Scurlock, Esq. After the death -of his wife he retired to a small farm-house, called the White -House, lying about a mile from Caermarthen, and there he wrote -his celebrated comedy of the Conscious Lovers.</p> -<p>At some distance from Caermarthen are several very remarkable -caves: whence Merlin is supposed to have delivered his -oracles.</p> -<blockquote><p>Of Merlin and his skill what region doth not -hear?<br /> -Who of a British nymph was gotten whilst she play’d<br /> -With a seducing spirit.</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><i>Drayton Polyolbion</i>, s. v.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Caermarthen gave birth to Merlin, who is styled, by an <a -name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>ancient -author, “the sonne of a badde angell, or of an incubus -spirit, the Britaine’s great Apollo, whom Geoffrey ap -Arthur would ranke with the south-saying seer, or rather with the -true prophets themselves; being none other than a mere seducer -and phantastical wizard.” He flourished in the year -480.</p> -<p>Some few years after this tour, I took the road to Caermarthen -from Ragland, through Crickhowel, Brecon, Llandovery, and -Landilo. Passing through Abergavenny, we paused for a few -days at Crickhowel, where we amused ourselves in fly-fishing in -the river Usk.</p> -<p>Crickhowel stands in the centre of a vale, scarcely surpassed -by that of the Towy; and is supposed to have been built in the -time of Howel Dha, about the year 940. The castle presents -little to attract attention. The church contains some few -ancient monuments; but the principal objects for a traveller are -to be found at a short distance from the town; viz. a remarkable -cave south of Langattock; a waterfall in a dingle, leading to -Llanelly iron-works; the remains of a castle, on what is called -the Camp Hill; and the beautiful village of Lambeter, the walks -of which are, of themselves, almost worthy a journey into -Wales. The society around Crickhowel is highly respectable; -but there are no noblemen’s seats, and only one park within -the distance of many miles. The natural scenery, however, -amply compensates.</p> -<p>From Crickhowel we proceeded to a village named Cwmdu, -situated between two chains of mountains. The village is -poor to the last degree, but the land is rich; and the valley, in -which it is situated, may be called the granary of -Brecknockshire. There is scarcely a field on <a -name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>the lower -sides of the hills, that does not present a spot favourable to -build upon. From the farm and house, called Cwmgû, is -one of the most beautiful views in all Wales; commanding, as it -does, the vale of Usk, the river winding through it, innumerable -fields, a high mountain towards the north, the town of Crickhowel -on the east; the ruins of Tretower below; a woody hill rising -above it; and, from a field at a short distance from the house, -the double head of the Beacons, towering, as it were, into the -clouds.</p> -<p>Brecon, or Aber Honddu, is a very romantic town; with good -inns, and every accommodation for a respectable family. The -views around it are beautiful; the Priory groves, as a public -walk, are the most delightful in all Wales, perhaps in Britain; -while the castle, the priory, and other fragments of antiquity, -afford ample materials for the contemplation of those who connect -scenes with former events; for within the walls of the castle was -planned the union of the two houses of York and Lancaster.</p> -<p>Passing through Trecastle, a miserable village, once a large -town, possessing the ruins of a castle, we entered a valley, -winding for six or eight miles at the feet of mountains, -presenting at every step something to admire, and arrived at -Llandovery, or Llanymddvri, situated on the banks of the Brane, -near the head of the upper vale of Towy. Here we found the -remains of a small castle, once in the possession of Richard de -Pws; small in dimensions, and uninteresting in its history; but -the town derives some notice from its having produced Rhys -Prichard, author of a book well known in almost every <a -name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 65</span><i>Welsh</i> -house by the name of the <i>Vicar’s Book</i>. He -sleeps here without inscription or monument.</p> -<p>From Llandovery, the road and the Towy proceed to Llandilo -through a country at once rich in fertility, and beautiful in -point of scenery. Llandilo is remarkable for a battle, -fought in 1281, between Edward the First and Llewellyn the -Great. It has no feature in itself worthy of attention; but -its environs are beautiful to the last degree.</p> -<p>About a mile from this town, on the road to Caermarthen, are -the ruins of Dinevawr Castle, the most celebrated spot in the -principality. This castle was erected by Roderique the -Great, in the year 877. So much have been written of these -ruins, of the noble park, belonging to Lord Dynevor, and the -country round, that I shall merely observe, that, after passing a -few hours in admiration, we passed on to Grongar Hill, and sate -beneath the hawthorn under which Dyer is supposed to have written -his beautiful poem. I cannot, however, refrain from quoting -a passage from Spenser, where he describes the Cave of Merlin, -which he places near the rocks of Dinevawr.</p> -<blockquote><p> If thou shouldst ever happen -that same way<br /> - To travel, go to see that dreadful place:<br /> - It is a hideous, hollow, cave-like bay<br /> - Under a rock, that has a little space<br /> - From the swift Barry, tumbling down apace,<br /> - Amongst the woody hills of Dinevawr.<br /> - But dare thou not, I charge, in any case<br /> - To enter into that same baleful bower,<br /> -For fear the cruel fiends should thee unawares devour.</p> -<p> <a name="page66"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 66</span>But standing high aloft, low lay -thine ear;<br /> - And there such ghastly noise of iron chains,<br /> - And brasen cauldrons thou shalt rumbling hear,<br /> - Which thousand sprights with long enduring pains<br -/> - Do toss, that it will stun thy feeble brains.<br /> - And oftentimes great groans, and grievous sounds,<br -/> - When too huge toil and labour them constrains.<br /> - And oftentimes loud strokes and ringing sounds<br /> -From under that deep rock most horribly rebounds.</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Faerie -Queene</span>, B. iii. Cant. 3.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The view from Grongar Hill is inexpressibly beautiful. -To attempt describing it would only be showing the poverty of -human language.</p> -<p>From this spot the road winds to Caermarthen with many a -graceful curve, through a country presenting a multitude of -objects for the pencil of an accomplished painter.</p> -<p>The regular road to Tenby is by St. Clears, nine miles one -quarter: Cold Blow, ten miles seven furlongs; left to Tenby, -eight miles and a quarter; at St. Clears is the Blue Boar, and at -Cold Blow the Windsor Castle; but, should the Tourist prefer the -coast to the regular road, I should recommend him to visit -Llanstaphan castle, at the mouth of the Towy; a large and -venerable ruin, memorable for the siege it sustained about the -middle of the twelfth century, when defended by Meredith ap -Gruffydd, who defeated all the attacks of the Normans, &c. -who besieged it. The village, which is now resorted to for -sea-bathing, is situate at the bottom of the hill. At high -water there is a ferry to the village on the opposite side: at -low water, at particular periods, the sands may <a -name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>be crossed on -horseback; but strangers should not attempt this without a -guide. From Llanstaphan the Tourist may proceed by -Llaugharne, Green Bridge, &c.</p> -<p>From Caermarthen we were recommended to go to</p> -<h3>LLAUGHARNE,</h3> -<p>in order to see the castle; but it by no means answered our -expectation: little part of it now remains; and the neat gravel -walk in the garden is ill adapted for the mutilated walls of an -ancient ruin. From the neighbouring heights, grand and -extensive sea-prospects interest the traveller. At this -place was born the once-celebrated Dean Tucker. One mile -distant is another ruin, called Rock Castle, but supposed to have -been a monastery. About five miles from Llaugharne, we -passed a small place, called</p> -<h3>GREEN BRIDGE.</h3> -<p>It derives its name from an excavation in the rock, through -which a little rivulet runs for a mile and a half. This -cavity is completely concealed from the road, and impossible to -be discovered, unless pointed out. But I would advise -travellers to alter their route from Swansea, and pursue the -straight road to Caermarthen, by Pontarddylais, where is a -comfortable inn, and so to Tenby, by Narbeth. By these -means they escape the unpleasant roads (and almost, indeed, -inaccessible for carriages), leading from Oystermouth to -Cheriton, and likewise from Llaugharne to Tenby. But should -the Tourist be led by an invincible curiosity to inspect the -ruins of Kidwelly Castle, it may easily be accomplished, by -pursuing the <a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -68</span>turnpike road to Kidwelly, and from thence to -Caermarthen. In this last route you only omit visiting the -seat of Mr. Talbot, of Penrice, though an object highly worthy of -inspection.</p> -<p>At Saunders’ Foot is a small bay, formed on one side by -a rock, called the Monkstone, and on the other by the -Caermarthenshire coast. Near this place is situate the seat -of Captain Ackland; and from thence to Tenby, the dark lowering -rocks rose perpendicularly to a considerable height, and then -branched out into overhanging crags. It was now -dusk;—and at this transforming hour, the bold promontories -became shaded with unreal glooms,—the projecting cliffs -assumed a more terrific aspect,—and the wild overhanging -underwood</p> -<blockquote><p>“Waved to the gale in hoarser -murmurs.”</p> -</blockquote> -<h3>TENBY</h3> -<p>is much resorted to during the summer months for -bathing. It stands on a rock facing Caermarthen Bay: the -bold promontory of the Monkstone Head to the north, and St. -Catherine’s Point to the south, form a fine -amphitheatre. The shore is well adapted for bathing; the -machines excellent; and a singular rock, rising in the sea close -to the shore, shelters the bathing machines even in the most -boisterous weather. On the south of Tenby, at the extremity -of the small island of St. Catherine’s, attainable at -low-water, are the remains of a Roman Catholic chapel. -Entirely through this island is a singular perforation, which, -without any difficulty, may be penetrated at the reflux of the -tide. The views from the <a name="page69"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 69</span>south sands are remarkably beautiful; -the character of the rocks is here awfully wild, craggy, and -impending; and the distant fishing-boats, with their white sails, -and the voices of the fishermen, who constantly frequent this -coast, borne at intervals on the air, are circumstances which -animate the scene: whilst the islands of Caldy and St. -Margaret’s opportunely rise, to render the terrific ocean -beautiful. The retrospect is equally interesting; the neat -town of Tenby, with the mutilated walls of its castle, closes -this charming scene.</p> -<p>The ancient walls of Tenby are still sufficiently perfect to -show its former strength and extent; and the four round towers, -standing on the extremity of the rock, point out the situation of -its castle. Near this is a ruinous building, supposed to be -the remains of a Flemish manufactory, probably woollen. On -the north sands is likewise another walk, equally beautiful, -commanding the whole extent of Caermarthen Bay. On the -summit of the rocks, over these sands, is the walk called the -Croft.</p> -<p>Tenby is greatly indebted to Sir William Paxton for his -exertions in improving it. The inconvenience it so long -laboured under from want of water has been, through his means, -completely removed, and that most necessary article of life is -now enjoyed by its inhabitants in great purity and profusion.</p> -<p>From the general high state of perfection and transparent -clearness of the sea-water at Tenby, it has become a place of -that fashionable resort, that both hot and cold sea-water baths -became requisite for the comfort and infirmities of its numerous -genteel visitors: these Sir William has likewise caused to be -erected on the most convenient <a name="page70"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 70</span>plans, with extensive reservoirs, -dressing, and lounging-rooms, &c. under the superintendence -of Mr. Cockerell. The bath-house is beautifully situated -outside the harbour, adjoining the Castle Hill: an excellent -carriage-road leads to it; and a large vestibule is allotted for -servants to wait in: lodgings and refreshments are likewise -provided for such as require them. The dressing-rooms for -the warm and vapour baths are raised to any temperature by warm -air; and there is a cupping-room, provided with all necessary -apparatus, for such as require that operation.</p> -<p>The principal inns and hotels are Shaw’s, -Jenkins’s, the Lion and the Bull; there is a theatre, -bowling-green, assemblies, billiard-rooms, library, &c. -&c. Horses are to be hired: and both rides and walks, -in the vicinity, are beautiful and abundant.</p> -<p>This place, from the vast quantity of fish caught near the -coast, is called Tenby-y-Piscoid. The Church of Tenby is a -large, handsome, and antique edifice, and contains several -monuments, bearing an ancient date, worthy of notice. On -the left of the altar is one to William Risam, with the following -inscription.</p> -<blockquote><p>Two hundred pounds<br /> - And 50 more<br /> -He gave this towne<br /> - to help the poore.</p> -<p>The use of one on cloth<br /> - and coles bestowe<br /> -For twelve decrepid mean<br /> - and lowe.</p> -<p><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>Let 50 -pounds to five<br /> - Be yearly lent<br /> -The other’s use on Burges’<br /> - sonne’s be spent.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>On the same side is a monument to the memory of John Moore, -Esq., who, at the age of fifty-eight, and having by his first -wife six sons and ten daughters, fell desperately in love, which -not being returned, he died of a consumption at Tenby. The -following epitaph is very allusive to his unfortunate -catastrophe:</p> -<blockquote><p>He that from home for love<br /> - was hither brought,<br /> -Is now brought home, this God<br /> - for him hath wrought.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Another monument to Morgan Williams:</p> -<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Igne probatur<br /> -En animus rursus clare in corpore<br /> -<span class="smcap">Morgan Williams</span>,<br /> -descended from the heiress of<br /> -Robert Ferrar, Bishop of St. David’s,<br /> -Burnt alive by bigots under Q. Mary;<br /> -was lately chief of Gargam,<br /> -and senior in council at<br /> -Madras.<br /> -Where Oct. 27, 1690, aged 49 years,<br /> -he resign’d the President’s chair<br /> -and his breath together.<br /> -An employment of full thirty years<br /> -chronicles the continual<br /> -approbation of his conduct,<br /> -particularly as<br /> -chief commissioner of the circuit.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>To the -south of Tenby are some insulated rocks, in which are many -curious excavations, and several islands, the principal of which -is Caldy Island, consisting of about 600 acres, 200 of which are -in a state of cultivation. The tower of its ancient priory -is still standing.</p> -<p>If the Tourist has leisure and opportunity, many excursions -may be made during his stay at Tenby. The first and most -important is, to Pembroke and Milford Haven. The road -affords many grand and extensive sea views, with a faint prospect -of Lundy Isle. About four miles from Tenby stand the ruins -of Mannorbeer castle, <a name="citation72a"></a><a -href="#footnote72a" class="citation">[72a]</a> supposed to have -been erected about the time of William Rufus. A little -farther on, the ivy-mantled walls of Carew Castle <a -name="citation72b"></a><a href="#footnote72b" -class="citation">[72b]</a> burst upon us; and, about three miles -from <a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -73</span>Pembroke, the decayed and broken walls of Llanfeth, or -Lantphey Castle, attracted our notice, once the residence of the -Bishops of St. David’s, but now a monument of -desolation. The three buildings of Swansea Castle; Lantphey -Court; and King John’s Hall, St. David’s; are very -similar in their workmanship. We now arrived at</p> -<h3>PEMBROKE.</h3> -<p>Mr. Wyndham has so minutely delineated the present state of -this castle, that I cannot do better than transcribe his -account:</p> -<blockquote><p>“The approach to Pembroke from the river -shows the town and castle to the most beautiful advantage. -The town is situated upon the ridge of a long and narrow rock, -gradually ascending to the highest point, on which stands the -castle, at the brink of the precipice. If I may compare -small things with great, it much resembles the situation of -Edinburgh.</p> -<p>“The castle is of Norman architecture, mixed with early -Gothic. The principal tower, which is uncommonly high and -perfect, has even its stone vaulted roof remaining. The -walls of this tower are fourteen feet in thickness, the diameter -of the space within is twenty-five, and the height, from the -ground to the crown of the dome, is seventy-five feet; but -visible marks appear within, that its height was originally -divided by four floors.</p> -<p>“King Henry VII. was born in the present castle. -The natural cavern, called the Wogan, lies immediately under <a -name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>the chapel, -and opens with a wide mouth towards the river. A -communication from the cavern to the castle was made by a -staircase, on the outside of the rock; the entrance was -barricaded with a strong wall, partly remaining, through which -there is now a large door-way opened to the shore of the -river. The cavern appears nearly circular; its diameter is -fifty-three feet, and its height is proportionable to the -diameter.</p> -<p>“In the civil war this castle was a garrison for the -crown; and, being besieged, made a gallant defence.” -In a cavern under this castle is a remarkable echo.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Pembroke is by many still considered the next town, in South -Wales, to Caermarthen; but, although the situation is fine, and -the main street good, still the residue of the town shows evident -symptoms of decay, and that it lacks that trade and notice which -Haverfordwest is deriving from its downfall. It gives the -title of Earl to the Herbert family.</p> -<p>The two churches within the walls are ancient. St. -Michael’s is of Norman architecture; it is at the east end -of the town: St. Mary’s in the centre of it. The -priory church has its nave vaulted with stone; it is paved with -glazed bricks, with arms, flowers, &c. upon them. Near -the church is the prior’s mansion, which still exhibits -proofs of its former splendour and the large establishment of its -possessors: it is now become a humble dilapidated farm-house; -and, to trace its origin, you must go to the foundation. In -1811 Pembroke contained 501 houses, and a population of 2415 -persons. From hence is a pleasant excursion, the account of -which, as given by Mr. Fenton, in his work on Pembrokeshire, I -subjoin:—</p> -<blockquote><p><a name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -75</span>“Quitting the magnificent ruins of Pembroke, pass -through Monkton, from the height of which an admirable view may -be attained; reach Dry Burrows, a furzy moor, covered with -tumuli. To the left stands Orielton. Here, turn to -the right, passing Castleton, still you will observe various -tumuli: from this height to the right, the navigation from -Pennarmouth to the town of Pembroke. The coast here is -famous for oysters of superior excellence, in inexhaustible -quantities. Descend by Hênllan, anciently inhabited -by the descendants of Gwynfard Dyfed: hence to Pwllcrochon -church-yard, upon a small creek of Milford Haven, in which a -memorable skirmish took place between the king’s and -parliament’s forces. The parish church of -Rhôscrowther is dignified with a handsome tower, and the -interior contains some figures well sculptured: distant a quarter -of a mile stands Iestingtown, or vulgarly Iseston, long the -residence of the family of Meares; it appears to have been -castellated. Not far from the church is a well, called St. -Degmen’s, to which great virtues have been ascribed. -Skirting the Bay of Nangle, reach the village of that name, so -called from being somewhat placed <i>in angulo</i>. It -bears marks of former consequence: in the church is a monument to -Brigadier Ferrars. To the north of a brook, running behind -the church-yard, are the remains of a considerable building, with -a square tower, called the castle, said to have been the -principal residence of the Sherbones, ancient Lords of the Vill; -it is now an inn. Hence along the coast is a block-house, a -singular building, reared upon the very edge of a horrid -precipice overhanging the sea, fronting another upon the dale -side of <a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -76</span>Milford. The masonry of these buildings is -excellent; their origin is uncertain. Leaving Bangeston on -the left, after passing over a sandy tract, you reach the village -of Castle Martin, an ancient British post, part of the works of -which are still remaining. A little further is Merion -Court, belonging to Lord Cawdor; and, near to the village, to the -north-east, a British circular camp. The road now passes -the extremity of Lord Cawdor’s property at Brawnslade, -farmed on the most improved principles. Still further along -the coast is Bully Bear, where are the remains of a fortified -camp. Hence to Linney Point, and the Head of Man, a -promontory of great height, awfully overhanging its base: near -this, a fine view of an insulated rock, called Pennyholt Stock, -pass the Wash to a Danish camp; in which is that wonderful chasm -called the Caldron: the entrance to the camp is by a winding -ascent; it has been of considerable extent and great strength; -and, with the Caldron and rock, most curious and worthy of -observation. Bosherton Meer is occasionally agitated to -such an extent as to be heard at a considerable -distance—resembling thunder, and its foam rising many feet -above the mouth of the pit. At a short distance to the -east, is a fissure in the cliffs not discernible till nearly on -its edge, called Penny’s and Adam’s Leap, over which -these hunters were precipitated: thence you proceed to the Horse -Block, and St. Govan’s Chapel and Well, to the latter of -which great virtues are ascribed. The surrounding scenery -is in the highest degree picturesque: the larger bay is -surrounded by cliffs, in the form of an amphitheatre; that in -which the hermitage is placed is truly romantic. In -proceeding <a name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -77</span>to Stackpool Court, after again gaining the height, you -pass Buckspool, and from thence to Bosherton; below the village, -pass under a tongue of land, on which are the remains of a strong -encampment; near this is a small cavern, in the Limestone Rock, -where human bones have been found. Harold is said to have -infested this coast, and to have left marks of his predatory -victories inscribed—</p> -<p style="text-align: center">Hic Haroldus victor fuit.</p> -<p>Of three stones, the most east stands in Stackpool Park -Warren, pitched upon one end; the second, surmounting a carnedd, -is in a field called Horsestone Park, consisting of a great mass -of limestone, six feet above the ground, five in breadth, and a -foot in thickness; it is bedded in an almost circular mound of -stones. The third stone is upon the same line, but more -west; it is the tallest, almost incrusted with a minute -lichen.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Stackpool Court (from the broad rock at the mouth of Broad -Haven) is the elegant seat of Lord Cawdor. It is on the -west side of the pool, on a fine eminence, at the edge of a bold -declivity. It bore originally a castellated form, but lost -its ancient baronial character. In the civil wars it was -fortified and garrisoned for the king. The walls were so -strong, that the ordnance made little impression. The -present mansion, which occupies the same site, is of wrought -limestone; its architecture is heavy. Lady Cawdor has -contributed to Mr. Fenton’s Tour, from her own pencil, a -charming view of this vicinity, taken near the bridge, in -crossing from the house to the park. The house has two -fronts, the principal one <a name="page78"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 78</span>facing the pleasure-ground, the other -opening to a fine piece of water. You enter the latter -front from a broad terrace, extending to the whole length; and, -after descending, it continues to the extent of a spacious -conservatory. The house is formed into many fine -apartments, and the library is large. In one room, -containing family pictures, is a whole length of Lord Cawdor, by -Sir J. Reynolds, and another of Lady Cawdor, by Sir W. -Beechey. The offices are well arranged, and the stables -form a detached large quadrangular building. Of Stackpool, -says Mr. Fenton, without straining a compliment, there are few -places which display more magnificence without, or more sumptuous -hospitality and elegant comforts within. But, to sum up the -importance of this place, be it known that it stands in the midst -of a property of fifteen thousand acres of most valuable -land! Opposite is the park, well stocked with deer, -deformed by some barren sand-banks, and at present deficient in -wood. The borders of the lake and the pleasure-grounds are, -however, richly wooded. Between the park and the sea there -is a warren, formed of mountains of sand, and consolidated by -that valuable plant môrhesg (juncus maritimus), sea or mat -rushes. The lake is abundantly stocked with wild fowl, -which collect at a call, and consent to be fed like barn-door -poultry.</p> -<p>Passing along the park, enter the pleasant village of -Stackpool, where the ancient lords’ vassals resided: hence -descend to a vale on the right, where a private gate leads -through a woody avenue to the church of Chereton, or Stackpool -Elidur, so named from its founder. It stands at the head of -a sequestered dell; is a plain <a name="page79"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 79</span>building, with a tower; consists of a -nave and chancel, having two small aisles on the south -side. On the north side of the chancel, under a wrought -canopy of stone, lies a cross-legged knight, said to represent -Elidur de Stackpool, the first possessor of Stackpool; the same -whom Giraldus mentions, who took the cross at the time that -Archbishop Baldwin made his transit through the country. -Ascend to St. Petroc’s, a rectory in the gift of Lord -Cawdor: the church is small, but very light and neat. The -only conspicuous monument is a handsome mural marble tablet, to a -Lady Jane Mansell, wife first of Sir Roger Lort, and afterwards -Sir Edward Mansell, of Muddlescombe, Bart. in the county of -Caermarthen. The rectors of this place have been observed -to live to a great age.</p> -<p>At a short distance from Stackpool stands the chapel of St. -Gowen, situated in a fine amphitheatre of rocks, rising -immediately over the sea. In respect to this scene, the -Author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, -thus expresses himself:—“As for you, my Lelius, never -shall I forget your enthusiasm, when we visited the chapel of St. -Gowen, situated among those stupendous rocks, which, forming a -semicircular area towards the sea, commands a noble prospect of -the coast of Devon. The language you employed on that -interesting occasion, never can I be so base as to forget! -‘If our prayers are at one time more acceptable than at -another, it must assuredly be in those moments when our souls are -elevated by such scenery as this! Often have I been awed to -devotion at Rome and at Loretto, in the presence of Canons, -Bishops, and Cardinals; but here, <a name="page80"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 80</span>in the rude simplicity of nature, I -feel my spirit separate, as it were, from the tenement which has -so long chained it to the earth, and wing its course directly up -to heaven! The magnificent area, in which this small chapel -is situated, is a temple more sublimely grand and affecting than -all the mosques of Turkey, and all the cathedrals of France, -Italy, or Spain.’”</p> -<p>At Pembroke we hired a boat, <a name="citation80a"></a><a -href="#footnote80a" class="citation">[80a]</a> intending to sail -round the extensive Haven of Milford; and, as we retired from the -shore, we took a retrospect of the dilapidated walls of the -castle, once the terror, and even in ruins, the pride of the -scene. It is most advisable to make this excursion at high -water, as it adds much to the picturesque scenery of the <i>tout -ensemble</i>.</p> -<h3>MILFORD HAVEN,</h3> -<p>is justly compared to “an immense lake; for, the mouth -not being at any distance visible, the whole haven seems -land-locked. Though it is a mile and three quarters wide, -it could not be defended against an enemy, nor is there a -sufficiency of timber in the neighbourhood. <a -name="citation80b"></a><a href="#footnote80b" -class="citation">[80b]</a></p> -<p>“This haven is formed by a great advance of the sea into -the land, it being above ten miles from the southernmost point at -Nangle to Pembroke, beyond which the tide comes up to and beyond -Carew Castle. It is capable of holding the whole navy of -England; and the same is said of Cork Harbour. <a -name="citation80c"></a><a href="#footnote80c" -class="citation">[80c]</a> The spring tides rise thirty-six -<a name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>feet, the -neap above twenty-six. Ships may be out of this haven in an -hour’s time; and in eight or ten hours over at Ireland, or -the Land’s End; and this with almost any wind, by day or -night.”</p> -<p>“In surveying the estuary of Milford Haven,” says -a writer, whom we shall frequently have occasion to quote, -“expanding into one of the finest harbours in all Europe, -and wearing the appearance of an immense lake, sufficiently large -to contain the entire navy of the British Crown, secure from -winds and tempests, and where a large fleet might manœuvre -with the greatest safety,—what ideas of power and -magnificence are awakened in the mind! Then by a magic -glance we traverse the tempestuous Channel to the Irish coast, -and call to mind the various crimes and injuries which that -ill-fated country has committed and received. Returning to -the spot whence we had travelled, beholding the creeks and bays, -the woods, and various agreeable accompaniments, which embellish -this majestic estuary; who is there that does not derive the -highest satisfaction in recalling to memory the beautiful scene -in Cymbeline, where Imogen, in the character of Fidele, has -flowers sprinkled over her grave, and a solemn dirge performed in -honour of her memory?”</p> -<p>Our reception at the miserable place of</p> -<h3>HUBBERSTON</h3> -<p>did not induce us to stay longer than was sufficient to -recruit ourselves. We found the dirty inn pre-occupied by -unfortunate Irish refugees: their situation was indeed -melancholy; driven from their country, their friends, <a -name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>and all most -dear to them!—And wishing to forget their past sufferings, -the following lines seem applicable to their situation:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Oh! could oblivion’s friendly -draught<br /> - Soothe all our sorrows to repose;<br /> -Nor that intruder, restless thought,<br /> - Renew our agonizing woes!</p> -<p>“Then, all unconscious of the past,<br /> - The present hour might calmly glide;<br /> -Keen retrospect no more be cast<br /> - O’er life’s tempestuous, changeful -tide:</p> -<p>“Yet Heaven, to all its creatures kind,<br /> - With peace can gild the deepest gloom;<br /> -And, ’mid misfortune’s wrecks, the mind<br /> - May sweet serenity assume.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Having refreshed ourselves, we walked to</p> -<h3>MILFORD,</h3> -<p>a small village, opposite Hubberston: several comfortable -houses are situated on the hill, commanding a delightful view of -the haven. Such was Milford when originally described in -this work: but it now ranks as a town of some consequence in -Wales. The haven, from its extent and safety, held forth -such great inducements to improve the vicinity, and gradually to -raise it into consequence as a sea-port, that the Right Hon. -Charles Greville, whose property it became on the death of Sir W. -Hamilton, obtained an Act of Parliament for the building of the -town, and the privileges it was to enjoy. After having -selected <a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -83</span>the situation, which is one of the finest parts of the -haven, Mr. G. laid down the ground-plan of the streets: the -principal ones run in parallel lines east and west, and in the -direction of the shore, with short streets of communication -intersecting them at right angles. The houses are generally -good, and many calculated for the residence of opulent -families.</p> -<p>The church is near the haven, at the east end of the lowest -street. The windows contain the arms of Hamilton, Barlow, -and Greville. The tower, at the west end of the edifice, is -very conspicuous in sailing up the haven. The custom-house -is at the lower end of the town, by the water side. The -dock-yards are immediately in front of the town: they are -calculated for the building of line-of-battle ships, as well as -frigates: it was formed after a plan by Lord Spencer. -Packets are stationed here under excellent regulations, for the -conveyance of the mails and passengers to Waterford.</p> -<p>The mail from London arrives here every evening, and departs -in the morning. Markets are held on Tuesdays and -Saturdays.</p> -<p>To the west of Milford is Priory Pill, on the opposite bank of -which is Haking, or Old Milford. Wet docks were about to be -established on this creek, but the design was abandoned. -Between Haking and Hubberstone is the observatory and -mathematical school. Being satisfied with our day’s -excursion, we again returned to our comfortable quarters at -Tenby, which we left with regret a few days afterwards.</p> -<p>We again pursued the Pembroke road; and, about two miles from -Tenby, the neglected walls of</p> -<h3><a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 84</span>CAREW -CASTLE</h3> -<p>invited curiosity;—and,</p> -<blockquote><p>“Deep struck with awe, we mark’d the -dome o’erthrown,<br /> -Where once the beauty bloom’d, the warrior shone:<br /> -We saw the castle’s mouldering tow’rs -decay’d,<br /> -The loose stone tott’ring o’er the trembling -shade.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>This castle, once the residence of the famous Sir Rhys ap -Thomas, I imagine, was intended more for a noble residence than a -place of defence. The walls of this building are very -thick, and constructed with stones of a large size, strongly -cemented with mortar. It is situated on a branch of Milford -Haven, and consists of a range of apartments built round a -quadrangle, with a circular tower at each corner. The south -wall is entirely demolished; but the north consists of a spacious -hall, measuring one hundred and two feet by twenty, supposed to -have been built by Sir John Perrot: above and under this hall are -noble apartments and extensive offices. This castle appears -to have been erected at different times, if we may judge from the -architecture. Every ledge of the walls of the towers, -denoting the different stories, was embossed with vegetation, -which seemed to grow from the solid stone. Over the -gate-way, at the west side, are the arms of England, Duke of -Lancaster, and Carew; and contiguous to this entrance is another -spacious room, measuring eighty feet by thirty.</p> -<p>The village of Carew is poor: there is, by the side of the -road, a cross, fashioned out of a single stone, fourteen feet -high, and carved all over.</p> -<p><a name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>Leaving -Carew, we crossed a small bridge over an arm of Milford Haven, -and continued our route across a barren and uninteresting heath; -till, descending to the village of</p> -<h3>CRESSELEY,</h3> -<p>the luxuriant plantation of firs, belonging to Sir William -Hamilton, attracted our attention. Small vessels constantly -frequent this quay, from whence a quantity of small coal is -shipped to different parts. From hence the road is -extremely barren and unpicturesque; but, about three miles -from</p> -<h3>LANDSHIPPING,</h3> -<p>an arm of Milford Haven again burst upon our sight. Near -it is situated the uninhabited house of Sir William Owen. -In crossing the ferry, Picton Castle, the property of Lord -Milford, formed a prominent feature in the gay scene; and -Slebitch, the seat of Mr. Philips, standing at the end of the -Haven, contributes considerably to this picturesque -prospect. The grounds of</p> -<h3>PICTON,</h3> -<p>through which we passed, about five miles in extent, seemed to -be well planned, and kept in excellent order. This castle -has always been inhabited; and, having escaped the fate of all -other castles in Wales, during the civil wars, it retained, till -very late, much of its original external form.</p> -<p>Mr. Fenton’s description of this noble spot is so -correct and energetic, that I shall, in justice to him, as well -<a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>as to -Picton, here insert it. “Picton castle owes its -beauties to circumstances that wealth cannot supply, or titles -confer; circumstances that age, and an unbroken line of ancestry -in its possessors, have given value to, and have made venerable; -an ancient structure, that nothing can so much disfigure as an -attempt to modernize, and make less so;—a castle (and I -believe a solitary instance) never forfeited, never deserted, -never vacant; and that never knew a melancholy blank in its want -of a master; from whose walls hospitality was never exiled, and -whose governors might be said to have been hereditary; a castle -in the midst of possessions and forests coeval with itself, and -proudly looking down over a spacious domain, on woods of every -after-growth, to an inland sea, bounding its property and its -prospects beyond them; for such is Picton Castle.”</p> -<p>The ground plan occupies an oblong area, having three large -projecting bastions on each side. At the east end was the -grand gate, with a portcullis between two similar bastions: this, -without any injury to the general aspect, has yielded to a modern -entrance, as have the moat and drawbridge, to a terrace, with an -open parapet: the additions at the west end are not so fortunate: -they injure the appearance, but add to the comforts of the -castle, as a modern residence; affording Lord Milford more ample -scope for that noble hospitality which he so liberally exercises -according to the usage of his ancestors.</p> -<p>Lord Milford possesses a fine cabinet of drawings by eminent -masters, collected in Italy by Sir Erasmus Phillips, his -uncle. The park is well wooded, but destitute <a -name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>of -deer. The gardens, forcing-houses, &c. &c. are very -extensive, and in high order.</p> -<p>A beautiful walk, which passes near the old encampment, called -Castle Lake, leads to Slebech, an ancient commandery of the -Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, but neither trace nor vestige -of the old commandery are now to be found. The church is -ancient and respectable, but not large; it contains two figures -in alabaster, believed to be of the Barlow family.</p> -<p>Returning again to Picton, at the extremity of the park, a -good turnpike road soon conducted us to</p> -<h3>HAVERFORDWEST,</h3> -<p>which is considered as one of the largest towns in South -Wales. It is very irregularly built, on the declivity of a -hill, which is in some parts so very steep, that the ground-rooms -frequently overlook the neighbouring roofs; yet there are some -good houses. It is considered as a county of itself, and -sends one member to parliament. The town was formerly -fortified by a strong wall, or rampart, on the western summit; -the shell of a once extensive castle is still remaining; this is -now converted into a gaol.</p> -<p>The parade, commanding a cheerful view of the neighbouring -country, and the ruins of an ancient abbey, extends for a -considerable way by the side of a hill. At the extremity of -this walk stand the ruins of an ancient priory of black canons; -the remains are now very inconsiderable, but we easily traced the -chapel, over one end of which is an arch, still in good -preservation, and beautifully enwreathed with a rich drapery of -ivy.</p> -<p><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>The -castle, which was built by Gilbert de Clare, first Earl of -Pembroke, was a strong edifice; but the keep now only remains; -and that has been converted into a gaol. From its elevated -situation, it has a commanding appearance, and an air of ruined -grandeur, more interesting than the proudest modern edifice can -boast.</p> -<p>Haverford is called by the Welsh Hwlfordh. <a -name="citation88a"></a><a href="#footnote88a" -class="citation">[88a]</a> Having finished our survey of -Haverford, we started early the next morning, proposing to -breakfast at</p> -<h3>NEWGIN BRIDGE,</h3> -<p>where we understood we should meet with every thing -comfortable; but, to our disappointment, we found a most -miserable, dirty pot-house, destitute of even the common comforts -of life. I recollected Shenstone’s complimentary -lines on an inn, but could not apply them on the present -occasion:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Whoe’er has travell’d -life’s dull round,<br /> - Where’er his stages may have been,<br /> -May sigh to think that he has found<br /> - The warmest welcome at an inn.” <a -name="citation88b"></a><a href="#footnote88b" -class="citation">[88b]</a></p> -</blockquote> -<p><a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>The -road from Haverford to Newgin we found very uninteresting; and -the shell of</p> -<h3>ROACH CASTLE.</h3> -<p>did not detain us long. It stands on a rocky eminence, -now completely in ruins, with only one tower remaining. -“Roach Castle,” says Leland, “in Rouseland, to -the right of the road to St. David’s, shews a round and -some double out-works, visible at a great distance. It -belonged to the Lords Ferrars, and old Langeville, Knt. of -Bucks.”</p> -<p>In descending the hill to Newgin, the dark lowering rocks, -which form that fine bay, called St. Bride’s, exhibited a -grand prospect. In the centre of this bay is situated -Newgin, bounded on the south by the island of Skomar, and on the -north by Ramsay. The fields adjacent to this place have -been frequently inundated by extraordinary overflowings of the -sea: at the reflux of the tide, the sands admit of most excellent -walking.</p> -<p>The saunter from hence to the city of</p> -<h3>ST. DAVID’S,</h3> -<p>now properly deserving the name of a village, was rather more -captivating than our walk before breakfast: it was occasionally -enlivened by the prospect of the wide ocean, boundless to our -view on one side, whilst before us the fantastic shapes of the -rocks off St. David’s Head exhibited Nature in her most -awful and striking attitudes. Above the rest, Caern Thydy -lifted its bold promontory, as if to give effect to the true -landscape. About half way between Newgin and St. -David’s, the beautiful little village <a -name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>of Solva -unexpectedly burst upon our view, studded with neat white-washed -cottages, and enclosed on each side with lofty rocks, which here -form a picturesque and interesting chasm. These rocks, -indeed, I could almost imagine were torn asunder by some -convulsive rent of the earth. The cathedral, and -dilapidated ruins of the episcopal palace, are situated at the -bottom of a steep hill, and scarcely visible in the town: these, -and the prebendal houses, were formerly enclosed by a strong -stone wall, with four gates, computed at eleven hundred yards in -circuit. David, <a name="citation90"></a><a -href="#footnote90" class="citation">[90]</a> the national saint -of Wales, with the consent of King Arthur, is said to have -removed the metropolitan see from Caerleon to Menevia, which has -ever since been called Ty Dewi by the Welsh, and St. David by the -English. What were the condition and extent of this town -formerly it is difficult to say, having been so frequently -destroyed. At present it is a very small city, and has -nothing to boast but its ruined palace and old cathedral, -dedicated to St. Andrew and St. David, which has often been -demolished; but rebuilt, in its present form, by Bishop Peter, -according to Giraldus, in the reign of King Henry II.; or, as -Willis, in <a name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -91</span>the year 1110, in Rhos Vale, below the town. It is -still esteemed a noble pile, consisting of two transepts, -measuring in length, from east to west, three hundred feet; and -the body, with the aisles, seventy-six feet broad.</p> -<p>Behind the choir is a most beautiful chapel, with a rich roof -of carved stone, built by Vaughan, in the time of King Henry -VIII., as a kind of presbytery, between the choir and Lady -Chapel. In the last, whose roof, as well as those of the -aisles of the choir and transepts, has been down ever since the -civil war, are monuments of three bishops, and in the nave, -&c. four or five more. In the north wall of the choir -is the shrine of St. David; a kind of altar tomb, with a canopy -of four pointed arches, and in front four quatrefoil holes, into -which the votaries put their offerings, which were taken out by -the monks at two iron doors behind. In the choir are also -the monuments of Owen Tudor, second husband of Queen Catharine, -Rhys ap Tudor, <a name="citation91a"></a><a href="#footnote91a" -class="citation">[91a]</a> Bishops Jorweth and Anselm, in -the thirteenth century, and Edmund, Earl of Richmond, father of -King Henry VII. This last monument is said to have -prevented King Henry VIII. from removing the see to -Caermarthen. Giraldus Cambrensis, who was archdeacon of -Brecon, canon of Hereford, and rector of Chesterton, Oxford, was -buried here in 1213. <a name="citation91b"></a><a -href="#footnote91b" class="citation">[91b]</a> On the north -side of the church are some walls of St. Mary’s College, -founded by Bishop Houghton, and John of Gaunt, in 1365, valued at -one hundred and six pounds per annum. <a -name="citation91c"></a><a href="#footnote91c" -class="citation">[91c]</a></p> -<p><a name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>It is -much to be regretted, that so little regard has been paid to the -internal appearance of this noble pile; the whole of it has -lately been white-washed, which gives it too much the air of a -modern building: the external part, I am sorry to add, has been -equally neglected; and the chapels and monuments exposed to the -wanton mischief of boys and idle people. The stone, -likewise, with which it is built, is of so soft a substance, that -it even moulders with the touch of the finger; but possibly it -may, by being exposed to the air, like the Bath stone, become -more solid; and, when by time it shall have acquired a darker -hue, may then better correspond with the original building.</p> -<p>The Bishop’s Palace now stands a monument of desolation; -and as we walked over the loose fragments of stone, which are -scattered through the immense area of the fabric, the images of -former times rose to reflection,—when the spacious hall -stood proudly in its original splendor; when the long aisles of -the chapel were only responsive to the solemn, slow-breathed -chant. In this palace is a very long room, purposely -erected for the reception of King John: at the extremity of it is -a circular window, of very elegant and curious workmanship.</p> -<p>According to Le Neve, Dubritius, Archbishop of Caerleon, is -called by this title, as Archbishop of Wales, at the first -establishment of the Christian religion in the British -islands. Godwin fixes no time of his coming in, but only -says, that he, waxing old, resigned his see to David, a disciple -of his; that he died, and was buried in the isle of Bardsee, Nov. -14, 522.</p> -<p>David removed the see, as before stated, from Caerleon <a -name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>to Menevia; -and, by the time Godwin allows him to sit, viz. sixty-five years, -and to die in 642, we may suppose he came in in 577. It is -said he lived to a great age, viz. 146 years; and, dying in 642, -as is aforesaid, was buried in the cathedral which himself had -caused to be built; and his successors shewed so great a respect -to his memory, as to call the see by his name, which it still -retains, they for a long time afterwards styling themselves -Archbishops of St. David’s; of these (including David) -there were twenty-five, with Sampson, who, by reason of a -contagious sickness in his diocese, retiring into Bretagne, and -taking his pall with him, his successors, either for want of -that, or by some other occasion, lost their title of Archbishop; -but yet for several years they held the archiepiscopal power of -consecrating bishops, which was exercised under twenty-two of -them, down to Bishop Bernard, who was consecrated in 1115. -He, by command of King Henry I., resigned this power to the see -of Canterbury. From this period, down to the time of Bishop -Vaughan, it had many benefactors; amongst whom, as most -prominent, stand the names of Peter de Leia, Bishops Gervase, -Beck, Martin, Gower, and Vaughan.</p> -<p>“During this interval,” says Mr. Rees, “St. -David’s acquired the highest celebrity; and the shrine of -the founder was resorted to by the greatest monarchs of the -age. In the list of these royal visitors are to be included -the names of William the Conqueror, who made his pilgrimage in -1079; King Henry the Second, who honoured Bishop David Fitzgerald -with his company in 1171; and King Edward the First, and Eleanor -his queen, who made their pilgrimage in 1284, when Bishop Beck -held the see. <a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -94</span>The pilgrims of inferior rank who resorted here were -innumerable, and their offerings served greatly to enrich the -ecclesiastics, who spared no pains to enhance the merit of the -penance, by which the poor votaries thus soothed their -consciences, and emptied their pockets.” <a -name="citation94"></a><a href="#footnote94" -class="citation">[94]</a></p> -<p>Giraldus gives us a true description of the country round St. -David’s, representing it as “a stony, barren, -unimprovable territory, undecked with woods, undivided by rivers, -unadorned with meadows, exposed only to wind and -storm.” Such, indeed, is the state and situation of -St. David’s; and, the environs having no hedges to divide -the property of the farmers, the sheep, and even the geese, are -all tethered together.</p> -<p>In this now dilapidated city was born Asserius, Bishop of -Sherbourne, who wrote a life of King Alfred, and is supposed to -have been instrumental in inducing that Prince to found the -University of Oxford.</p> -<p>The walk to St. David’s Head, though barren, represents -a view striking and awful; sublimity gives place to elegance: yet -what is it to view?—a boundless waste of ocean;—not a -glimpse of smiling nature,—not a patch of vegetation, to -relieve the aching sight, or vary the objects of -admiration. The rocks on this shore are shaken into every -possible shape of horror; and, in many parts, <a -name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>resemble the -convulsions of an earthquake, splintered, shivered, and -amassed. On these rocks stood the famous rocking stone, or -<i>Y mean sigl</i>; which, “though twenty yoke of oxen -could not move it, might be shaken with the slightest -touch.” We understand it was thrown off its balance, -by order of the farmer, to prevent the curious from trampling on -his grounds. “A mile straight west from St. -David’s, betwixt Portclais and Porthmaur,” <a -name="citation95"></a><a href="#footnote95" -class="citation">[95]</a> is the shell of Capel Stinen, St. -Stinan’s or St. Justinian’s chapel.</p> -<p>From this spot is an extensive view of Whitsand Bay, called by -the Welsh <i>Porth Maur</i>, or the Great Bay; in which stand the -six rocks, called the Bishop and his Clerks. Half a league -from hence is</p> -<h3>RAMSEY ISLE,</h3> -<p>half a mile long, and three quarters broad, and divided into -two considerable farms. The whole island is well stocked -with rabbits; and, during the spring, the Razorbill, Puffin, and -Harry birds, resort here in flocks. It has undergone many -changes from the continual wearing of the waves. There is a -tradition, that the embarkation for Ireland anciently took place -at Ramsey; but sailors doubt the truth of this circumstance, from -the circumstances of the tides. Our walk from St. -David’s to</p> -<h3>FISHGUARD</h3> -<p>afforded us little room for observation; the eye, however, -kept in view a wide range of the unbounded ocean; till, <a -name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>dim with -exertion, it by degrees reposed on the dark lowering rocks, -which, disregarding the angry roar of the waves, seemed to -project their broad sides, to augment the idle tumult. -Quitting the turnpike road, in search of the place where the -French effected their landing, in the year 1797, we passed a neat -house, called Caergwent, belonging to Mrs. Harris. The kind -attentions of a farmer, in the neighbourhood of this memorable -spot, claim our warmest acknowledgments. Having finished a -most comfortable meal at Mr. Mortimer’s house (which, -during the confusion, was considered the head-quarters of the -French, commanded by General Tate), he explained all the -minutiæ respecting this circumstance; and very obligingly -pointed out the situation of their camp, and related many -entertaining and interesting anecdotes. Deeply impressed -with gratitude towards Mr. M. for his civilities, we soon arrived -at Goodric sands. This spot was very judiciously selected -by Lord Cawdor, as a proper place for the French to lay down -their arms; for, had they resisted, a cannonade of grape-shot, -from a neighbouring fortress, would have instantly played upon -them. Fishguard stands on a steep rock, with a convenient -harbour, formed by the river Gwain; though its situation and bay -are interesting, it is by no means a desirable place to remain -long at.</p> -<p>Several druidical monuments <a name="citation96"></a><a -href="#footnote96" class="citation">[96]</a> engaged our -attention, as we drew near</p> -<h3><a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -97</span>NEWPORT,</h3> -<p>called by Giraldus, Llanhever, or the Town on the river -Nevern. The fragments of the castle are too insignificant -to invite the curiosity of the passing traveller: it was -demolished by Llewellyn, Prince of South Wales, when possessed by -the Flemings.</p> -<p>The country beyond Newport presented a more pleasing -countenance: wood, water, hill, and vale, all unite, even to -induce the plodding citizen to pause, and wish to spend the -evening of his days in the vicinity of its enchantment. In -this interesting situation we found the village of -Velindre:—we here particularly observed the slaty quality -of the hills, and could not avoid condemning the folly of the -inhabitants of Velindre in building their cottages of mud, and -sparingly covering them with straw, when Nature herself seemed to -place comforts, if not luxuries, before their view. But, -perhaps, these reproaches were ill-grounded; for thus veiled in -obscurity, they were happy, as they knew not enough of the world -seriously to regret the want of these conveniences: their -situation, indeed, seemed to verify the philosophical sentiment -of Gray:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Since ignorance is bliss,<br /> -’Tis folly to be wise.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>For though they suffer the extremes of filth and penury, yet -they enjoy the two inestimable blessings, health and -felicity. The broken towers of</p> -<h3>KILGERRAN CASTLE</h3> -<p>soon attracted our notice. The relics of this ruin stand -<a name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>on a point -of rock, impending over the river Tyvi, whose beauty time had -only impaired to heighten its grandeur. Two imperfect -circular towers, and the fragments of a wall, now only -remain.</p> -<p>The river Tyvi, I imagine, abounds with fish, as we observed -at every door in the village of Kilgerran a coracle. <a -name="citation98"></a><a href="#footnote98" -class="citation">[98]</a> The construction of this little -water conveyance is remarkably simple, and intended solely for -the use of fishing: a thick skin, or coarse pitched canvas, is -stretched over wicker-work. This singular fishing-boat -conveys only one man, who manages it with the greatest adroitness -imaginable; the right hand being employed in <a -name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>using the -paddle, the left in conducting the net, and the teeth in holding -the line. Two coracles generally co-operate, to assist each -other in fishing: they usually measure about five feet long, and -four broad, and are rounded at the corners; and, after the -labours of the day, are conveyed on their backs to the little -cots of the fishermen, being looked upon as a necessary appendage -to the cottage door.</p> -<p>Description can scarcely suggest the full magnificence and -beauty of the saunter from hence to Cardigan: the valley, about -two miles in extent, seemed to possess all that nature inherits; -sloping hills, two hundred feet high, covered with wood, from the -water’s edge to their highest summit, and at the most -acceptable distances, and truly happy situations, interrupted by -a bold, naked, and projecting rock; whilst the broad and -translucid stream of the Tyvi reflects, as in a mirror, the -blackness of the impending shades. The retrospect commands -the romantic ruins of Kilgerran castle, whose mutilated walls -close this delicious landscape. The whole valley bears a -strong resemblance to the situation of the celebrated -Piercefield. As this spot is entirely lost by keeping the -turnpike road, it is advisable for travellers in general, to hire -a boat from Cardigan to Kilgerran: this our humble and less -encumbered mode of travelling rendered unnecessary.</p> -<p>Near Kilgerran are Castle Maelgyn, and Pentre, the seat of Dr. -Davies; both handsome modern mansions, surrounded by pleasing -gardens and plantations.</p> -<p>At Lechryd, not far from Kilgerran, extensive tin-works are -carried on by Sir Benjamin Hamet. Having already examined -works of this nature at Neath, we preferred <a -name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>the -romantic vale of Kilgerran; as to accomplish both would have -occupied too much time. We entered the town of</p> -<h3>CARDIGAN</h3> -<p>over a handsome stone bridge, built over the Tyvi, which is -here of considerable width. In front of this stands, on a -steep eminence, the castle, consisting chiefly of its outer -walls, which prove it to have been once a considerable -building. This place, considered the principal town of the -county, is called by the Britons Aberteivi; which name it -receives from standing near the mouth of the river Tyvi. It -was fortified, together with the castle, by Gilbert, son of -Richard Clare, and demolished by Rhees ap Gryffith.</p> -<p>Cardigan had once a strong castle; but it was destroyed in the -civil wars, and an elegant mansion erected on its site by Mr. -Bowen: the cellars of which were anciently the dungeons of the -keep. At the end of the bridge is a chapel, said to be -erected on the spot where Giraldus preached the Crusade.</p> -<p>The town is large and regular; its chief trade consisting in -lead, exported to Ireland. It sends one member to -Parliament, and gives the title of Earl to the family of -Brudenell. The Church is large, and well built, with a -handsome tower. The new gaol, finished in the year 1797, is -conveniently situated, and appears to be a well-planned -building. One mile from Cardigan is</p> -<h3>ST. DOGMAEL’S ABBEY,</h3> -<p><a name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -101</span>called, by Leland, <a name="citation101"></a><a -href="#footnote101" class="citation">[101]</a> a “Priory of -Bonhommes.” The Monasticon places this house amongst -the Benedictines; but it was that strict and reformed sort of -Benedictines, called the Order of Tiron, founded by Martin of -Tours, who conquered the country of Cemmeis, about the time of -King William the Conqueror. Part of the ruins is now -converted into a chapel, for the convenience of the -vicinity. St. Dogmael’s is now a mere fishing -village.</p> -<p>At the second mile-stone, in our road from Cardigan to the -village of</p> -<h3>LLANARTH,</h3> -<p>we halted a short time, to take a retrospect of the country we -had passed. From this spot, the town and castle of -Cardigan, standing on an eminence, in the centre of a broad -valley, and encircled with hills, beautifully introduced -themselves to our view. From hence to</p> -<h3>ABERAERON,</h3> -<p>grand sea prospects continued to enliven our -route;—whilst the faint and still fainter hues of the coast -of Ireland appeared just visibly skirting the distant -horizon. Aberaeron is situated in a vale, near the conflux -of the river Aeron with the sea: from whence it receives its -name; Aber signifying the mouth of any thing.</p> -<p>The entrenchment, mentioned by Sael, in his Collection of -Tours, about a mile from Aberaeron, is now <a -name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>almost -washed away by daily encroachments of the sea. We lamented -that the druidical sepulchral monuments, mentioned by the same -author, were inadvertently passed unnoticed by us.</p> -<p>In this day’s journey we still continued to indulge the -sublime emotions, which an unconfined view of the ocean always -inspires; a serene day, with partial gleams of sunshine, gave -magical effects to the scenery; and the sea was enlivened with -many a vessel, passing each other in various directions, and -contributing to render the terrific ocean beautiful. Before -us, the towering mountains of Merionethshire glittered in all -those colours of beauty, which constitute the sublime; and we -appeared only to climb one hill to view others still rising in -endless perspective: over the whole was diffused the rich glow of -evening; and the distant mountains were variegated by the parting -tinge of lingering day. A neat Church, backed by romantic -hills, animated the village of Llanrysted. Three miles -from</p> -<h3>ABERYSTWITH,</h3> -<p>we paused at Llanryan bridge, to admire the rich banks rising -on each side of the river Ystwith, over which this bridge is -thrown; it is built in the style of the celebrated Pont-y-prid, -in the vale of Glamorganshire. We entered the town of -Aberystwith over a temporary wooden bridge. <a -name="citation102"></a><a href="#footnote102" -class="citation">[102]</a> In the year 1796, a stone bridge -experienced the same fate with many others in Wales, occasioned -by <a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>a -sudden thaw: Mr. Edwards, from Dolgelly, has lately erected -another, by contract, consisting of six arches.</p> -<p>Aberystwith, partaking much of the dirt of seaports in -general, is situated at the termination of the vale of Rhyddol, -in the bay of Cardigan, and open to St. George’s -Channel. The environs are stony and rugged; the coast -affords indifferent bathing, being much exposed; and the shore is -rough and unpleasant. In fine, it is, in almost all -respects, the reverse of Tenby, except it has the advantage in -the number of houses, and, consequently, more company. At -the extremity of the town, upon an eminence, stand the ruins of -an ancient castle, of which little now remains but a solitary -tower, overlooking a wide expanse of sea. It was rendered -famous, by being, at one time, the residence of the great -Cadwalader, and in all the Welsh wars was considered as a -fortress of great strength: it was built by Gilbert Strongbow, in -the year 1107, and rebuilt by King Edward I. in 1277, a few years -before his complete conquest of Wales. The ruin of the -castle now affords a pleasant walk.</p> -<p>At this castle Edmund Goodere, Esq. farmer of the mines royal -in the county of Cardigan, had letters patent, 13th of Charles -I., to erect a mint for coinage of such silver as was raised from -the said mines royal in Wales; but the castle and houses for the -mint were destroyed by the civil war. On the 6th of March, -1646, on his petition to this effect, the smelting house, near -the refining mills, was appropriated by Parliament to this -purpose, till the castle should be refitted.</p> -<p>But what formerly rendered this town more considerable, were -the rich lead mines in its vicinity. These <a -name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>mines are -said to have yielded near a hundred ounces of silver from a ton -of lead, and to have produced a profit of two thousand pounds a -month. Sir Hugh Middleton here made the vast fortune, which -he afterwards expended on the New River, constructed for the -purpose of supplying the northern side of London with -water. But Thomas Bushell raised these mines to their -greatest height: an indenture was granted to him by King Charles -I. for the coining of silver pieces, to be stamped with ostrich -feathers on both sides, for the benefit of paying his -workmen. This gentleman was afterwards appointed governor -of Lundy Isle. The most considerable lead mine was that of -Bwlch-yr-Eskir-his, discovered in the year 1690. The ore -was here so near the surface, that the moss and grass in some -places scarcely covered it. <a name="citation104"></a><a -href="#footnote104" class="citation">[104]</a></p> -<p>Close to the site of the old castle, Mr. Uvedale Price, of -Foxley, in Herefordshire, has erected a fantastic house in the -castellated form, intended merely as a summer residence.</p> -<p>Aberystwith has of late years been in all respects greatly -improved; for being the principal place of summer resort for -bathing and pleasure from North Wales and the adjacent English -counties, every inducement has <a name="page105"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 105</span>been held forth that could attract -company from its new competitors: the roads are now good, and the -inns and accommodations excellent. The population consists -of 2,397 persons.</p> -<p>The bathing is well conducted, and although the beach, as at -most of our watering places, is formed of pebbles, still there -are generally good sands to bathe on at all hours of the -tide. During the season assemblies are held here as at -Brighton, Ramsgate, and other English sea-bathing places. -Formerly, the town-hall likewise served as a theatre, but another -building has now been erected for that purpose. -Notwithstanding Aberystwith is prevented by the sand bar at the -entrance from receiving vessels of large tonnage, still its trade -is considerable and increasing, carried on by vessels from 250 -tons burthen down to 18.</p> -<p>Mr. Meyrick’s remarks with respect to this port are -perfectly correct. “Were two piers made on those -ridges of the rock called the Wey, which afford the strongest -foundations, the harbour would be handsome, capacious, and -convenient. Besides, by cutting a passage across the road -to the north of the town, and carrying it along the marsh into -the sea, for the Rhyddol, just at the angle it makes when it -takes a south-west course, an excellent back-water would be at -hand, and would clear away any bar that might be formed at the -mouth of the harbour, and keep it free from mud.”</p> -<p>It has two markets in the week; Monday for butter, &c., -and Saturday for meat, besides which, it is generally well -supplied with fish, with which it furnishes the interior of the -country as far as Shrewsbury and Worcester. <a -name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 106</span>The views -from the castle and cliffs, not only over Cardigan Bay, but over -the cloud-capped summits of Cader Idris and Snowdon, are -extensive and sublime.</p> -<p>We determined to pursue the banks of the meandering Rhyddol, -in preference to the turnpike road, in our way to Havod.</p> -<p>This valley comprehends every thing that constitutes the -beautiful; it is enclosed by high mountains on each side, -vegetating to their summits; indeed, all the tints of verdure and -diversity of foliage here introduced themselves in one view; the -Rhyddol struggling with the huge masses of rock,—its -never-ceasing, tumultuous motion,—its sparkling -foam;—in fine, every thing that can be imagined, by the -most enthusiastic admirer of nature, is blended in this short -excursion:—</p> -<blockquote><p>—“<i>is not this vale</i><br /> -More free from peril than the envious courts?<br /> -Here feel we but the penalty of Adam,<br /> -The season’s difference, as the icy fang<br /> -And churlish chiding of the winter’s wind.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span -class="smcap">Shakspeare</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“The vale of Rhyddol,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is -a very grand and extensive scene, continuing not less than ten -miles, among rocks, hanging woods, and varied ground, which, in -some parts, become mountainous: while the river is every where a -beautiful object; and twice or three times, in its passage -through the vale, is interrupted in its course, and formed into a -cascade. This is a circumstance in a <i>vale</i>, I think, -rather uncommon. In a contracted <i>valley</i> it is -frequent: but <i>an extended vale</i> is seldom <a -name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>so -interrupted as not to give way to the river on one side or the -other.”</p> -<p>To the inquisitive pedestrian (for this vale is inaccessible -for carriages), the old Church of Llanbadem Vawr, which signifies -the Church of Great Paternus, a native of Bretagne, is -particularly interesting; who, as the writer of his life -expresses it, “by feeding governed, and by governing fed -the Church of Cretica.” To his memory this Church, -and formerly an episcopal see was founded; but the bishopric, as -Roger Hovedon writes, “early declined, because the -parishioners slew their pastor.” <a -name="citation107"></a><a href="#footnote107" -class="citation">[107]</a> As we draw near the</p> -<h3>DEVIL’S BRIDGE,</h3> -<p>a long chain of mountains excited our admiration, encircled -half way down with a thick mist, similar in appearance to a -girdle: this circumstance seems to justify the bold imagery and -beautiful description of a mountain given by the Poet:</p> -<blockquote><p>“As some tall cliff that lifts its awful -form,<br /> -Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the storm;<br /> -Though round its breast the rolling clouds are spread,<br /> -Eternal sunshine settles on its head.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span -class="smcap">Goldsmith</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The comfortable inn, situated near this romantic spot, stands -in front of the River Rhyddol, and commanding the most -picturesque view fancy can paint, was built by the respectable -and truly hospitable owner of Havod.</p> -<p><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>This -celebrated Bridge, so much the object of curiosity and -admiration, is so completely environed with trees, that many -travellers, not intent upon deep investigation, or in pursuit of -Nature’s landscapes, may pass over it without the least -suspicion of the dreadful aperture, or the ancient structure that -conveys them over the gulf. On the eastern side we -descended a deep and treacherous bank, consisting of slate rock, -or laminac, I should imagine, near an hundred feet: this is the -computed measurement; but the eye, confused by the awfulness of -the scene, loses its faculty of judging. From this spot the -vast chine, or chasm over which the bridge is thrown, is seen to -great advantage. The whole of this fissure was probably -occasioned by some convulsion of Nature, as each indenture seems -to correspond with the opposite protuberance. Under the -bridge the river Mynach, in its confined course, meeting with -obstructions of massy rock, and fragments of prodigious size, -rushes through the chasm with irresistible violence.</p> -<p>This bridge is called in Welsh Pont-ar Fynach, or Mynach -Bridge; it consists of two arches, one thrown over the -other. The foundation of the under one is of great -antiquity, and vulgarly attributed to the invention of the Devil; -it is supposed to have been erected as far back as the year 1087, -in the reign of King William II., by the Monks of Strata Florida -Abbey, the ruins of which are still visible, about ten miles from -hence. Gerald mentions his passing over it, when he -accompanied Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, at the time of the -Crusades, in the year 1188, and in the reign of King Richard -I. The original arch being suspected to be in a ruinous <a -name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>condition, -the present bridge was built over it, at the expense of the -county, in the year 1753. The width of the chasm is -estimated at about thirty feet.</p> -<p>Our Cicerone first conducted us to a fall on the river -Rhyddol, unobserved in Walker’s Description of the -Devil’s Bridge, and unnoticed by Warner. The -character of this fall is remarkably singular: a huge fragment of -rock, projecting over the river for a considerable way, -precipitates the water in a singular and almost inexpressible -direction: the rocks are occasionally variegated by the dark -foliage of underwood, and sometimes barren, rugged, and -impending.</p> -<p>Description cannot suggest the full magnificence of the -prospect which spread before us, on our arrival at the grand Fall -of the Mynach; for though it may paint the grandeur of the -elegance of outline, yet it cannot equal the archetypes of -Nature, or draw the minute features, that reward the actual -observer at every new choice of his position: reviewing this -thundering cataract, in the leisure of recollection, these -nervous lines of Thomson seem to describe much of the scene:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Smooth to the shelving brink a copious -flood<br /> -Rolls fair and placid, where collected all<br /> -In one impetuous torrent, down the steep<br /> -It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round.<br /> -At first an azure sheet, it rushes broad;<br /> -Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls,<br /> -And from the loud resounding rocks below<br /> -Dash’d in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft<br /> -A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower.<br /> -Nor can the tortured wave here find repose:<br /> -<a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>But -raging still amid the shaggy rocks,<br /> -Now flashes o’er the scatter’d fragments, now<br /> -Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts;<br /> -And falling fast from gradual slope to slope,<br /> -With wild infracted course and lessen’d roar,<br /> -It gains a safer bed, and steals at last<br /> -Along the mazes of the quiet vale.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The following table, taken from Walker’s Description of -the Devil’s Bridge, gives the exact height from the top of -the bridge to the water underneath; and the different falls from -thence till the Mynach delivers itself into the Rhyddol -below.</p> -<h4>FALLS, &c.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">Feet</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>From the bridge to the water</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">114</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> First fall</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> Second ditto</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">60</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> Third ditto</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> Grand cataract</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">110</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>From the bridge to the Rhyddol</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">322</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The rocks on each side of the fall rise perpendicularly to the -height of eight hundred feet, and are finely clothed with the -richest vegetation to the loftiest summit.</p> -<p>Near the basin of the first fall from the bridge we entered a -dark cavern, formerly inhabited by a set of robbers, two brothers -and a sister, called Plant Mat, or Plant Hat, signifying -Matthew’s Children. Tradition <a -name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>reports, -that they committed various depredations in the neighbourhood, -and lived concealed in this “specus horrendum” for -many years, from the keen research of “day’s garish -eye.” The entrance just admits sufficient light to -make “darkness visible.”</p> -<p>With regret we left this romantic spot; where, if retirement -ever had “local habitation,” this was her -“place of dearest residence.” “One -excursion,” says Mr. Cumberland, “to this place, will -not suffice common observers; nor indeed many, to the lovers of -the grand sports of Nature.” “The -Mynach,” in another place he describes, “coming down -from beneath the Devil’s Bridge, has no equal for height or -beauty that I know of; for, although a streamlet to the famous -fall of Narni in Italy, yet it rivals it in height, and surpasses -it in elegance.</p> -<p>“After passing deep below the bridge, as through a -narrow firth, with noises loud and ruinous, into a confined -chasm, the fleet waters pour headlong and impetuous, and leaping -from rock to rock, with fury literally lash the mountain’s -sides; sometimes almost imbowered among deep groves, and flashing -at last into a fanlike form, the fall rattling among the loose -stones of the Devil’s Hole—where, to all appearance, -it shoots into a gulf beneath, and silently steals away: for so -much is carried off in spray, during the incessant repercussions -it experiences, in this long tortuous shoot, that in all -probability, not half the water arrives at the bottom of its -found and sullen grave.”</p> -<p>Four miles from hence, on the Llandiloe’s road, is -situated</p> -<h3><a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -112</span>HAVOD or HAFOD,</h3> -<p>the celebrated seat of the late Mr. Johnes. The former -part of the road is barren and uninteresting; but, on our first -entrance into the grounds, all our past complaints were lost in -expressions of admiration. “A philosopher has -said,” says a modern Tourist, “that the man, who -makes two blades of grass grow, where only one grew before, is -greater than the greatest hero. If this be true, Mr. Johnes -must rank before all the conquerors of the world, as he has made -the barren wilderness around him to smile, and converted the -worthless heath into waving woods, luxuriant corn-fields, and -pastures.” From October 1795, to April 1801, Mr. -Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees; besides a great number -of acres, that he sowed with acorns. Since this period the -plantations have been extended on the same scale with equal -spirit; from one to two hundred thousand trees being planted -every year. The Mansion is a very elegant piece of -architecture, built of Portland stone, and the plan entirely -novel, being a mixture of the Moorish and Gothic, with turrets -and painted windows. The whole of it indeed does great -credit to the architect, Mr. Baldwyn of Bath. It is -situated near the banks of the river Ystwith, and beautifully -environed by lofty hills, clothed with oak. The interior of -the house corresponds in elegance with the exterior.</p> -<p>From the hall we were conducted through a suite of elegant -apartments, very judiciously fitted up with paintings, statues, -and antiques; but the Library more particularly engaged our -notice, containing a choice and <a name="page113"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 113</span>valuable collection of books: this -octagonal room is built in the form of a dome with a gallery -round it, supported by a colonnade of variegated marble pillars -of the ancient Doric order, with a circular window at top for the -admission of light. We entered through a handsome door, -inlaid with a large reflecting mirror: immediately opposite is -another door of transparent plate-glass, leading to the -conservatory, three hundred feet in length, and containing a -number of curious and rare exotics, with a walk down the centre -of the building. In fine, the effect of the <i>tout -ensemble</i> can better be imagined than described.</p> -<p>Amongst the other things worthy of admiration, a handsome -statue, in the library, of Thetis dipping Achilles in the river -Styx, more particularly detains attention. We next passed -through the Billiard-room, and were conducted to the top of the -staircase, to admire two elegant paintings, the subjects taken -from Captain Cook’s Voyages: the painter is unknown. -Many of the rooms are beautifully furnished with rich Gobelin -tapestry.</p> -<p>To give my readers a just conception of the beauties of Havod, -I shall beg leave to borrow the elegant description of it, drawn -by the pen of Mr. Cumberland.</p> -<blockquote><p>“Havod is a place in itself so pre-eminently -beautiful, that it highly merits a particular description. -It stands surrounded with so many noble scenes, diversified with -elegance as well as with grandeur; the country on the approach to -it is so very wild and uncommon, and the place itself is now so -embellished by art, that it will be difficult, I believe, to -point out a spot that can be put in <a name="page114"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 114</span>competition with it, considered -either as the object of the painter’s eye, the poet’s -mind, or as a desirable residence for those who, admirers of the -beautiful wildness of Nature, love also to inhale the pure air of -aspiring mountains, and enjoy that <i>santo pacé</i>, as -the Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes -made social by a family circle.</p> -<p>“From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding -vale; the undulating form of whose ascending, shaggy sides, are -richly clothed with various foliage, broken with silver -waterfalls, and crowned with climbing sheep-walks, reaching to -the clouds.</p> -<p>“Neither are the luxuries of life absent; for on the -margin of the Ystwith, where it flows broadest through this -delicious vale, we see hot-houses and a conservatory: beneath the -rocks a bath; amid the recesses of the woods a flower garden; -and, within the building, whose decorations, though rich, are -pure and simple, we find a mass of rare and valuable literature, -whose pages here seem doubly precious, where meditation finds -scope to range unmolested.</p> -<p>“In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the -scenery of this place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any -taste, that the impression on mine was increased, after an -interval of ten years from the first visit, employed chiefly in -travelling among the Alps, the Apennines, the Sabine Hills, and -the Tyrolese; along the shores of the Adriatic, over the Glaciers -of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; where, though in search of -beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine—never so -many pictures concentred in one spot; so that, warmed by the -renewal of my acquaintance <a name="page115"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 115</span>with them, I am irresistibly urged -to attempt a description of the hitherto almost virgin haunts of -these obscure mountains.</p> -<p>“Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, -at intervals, with fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great -magnificence, and wonderfully picturesque beauty. Downton -Castle has a delicious woody vale, most tastefully managed; -Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway savagely grand; -Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistill Rhayader is -horribly wild; Rhayader Wennol gay, and gloriously -irregular,—each of which merits a studied description.</p> -<p>“But at Havod, and its neighbourhood, I find the effects -of all in one circle; united with this peculiarity, that the deep -dingles, and mighty woody slopes, which, from a different source, -conduct the Rhyddol’s never-failing waters from Plynlimmon, -and the Fynache, are of an unique character, as mountainous -forests, accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms; and -taken altogether, I see ‘the sweetest interchange of hill -and valley, rivers, woods and plains, and falls, with forests -crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’ insomuch, that it -requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with -Milton—</p> -<p>‘All things that be send up from earth’s great -altar<br /> -Silent praise!’</p> -<p>“There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly -through ways artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept -clean, and composed of materials found on the spot; <a -name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 116</span>which is -chiefly a coarse stone, of a greyish cast, friable in many -places, and like slate, but oftener consisting of immense masses, -that cost the miner, in making some parts of these walks, -excessive labour; for there are places where it was necessary to -perforate the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory, -that, jutting across the way, denied further access; and to go -round which you must have taken a great tour, and made a -fatiguing descent. As it is the walks are so conducted, -that few are steep; the transitions easy, the returns commodious, -and the branches distinct. Neither are they too many, for -much is left for future projectors; and if a man be stout enough -to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all -trodden paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the -studied line, till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of -the well-known way.</p> -<p>“Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to -visit the best points of view by the general routine; for all -that is here done has been to remove obstructions, reduce the -materials, and conceal the art; and we are no where presented -with attempts to force the untamed streams, or indeed to invent -any thing where Nature, the great mistress, has left all art -behind.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Such was the just description of Havod; but this magnificent -mansion, with the costly furniture, plate, pictures, and above -all to be regretted, the splendid library of scarce and valuable -books, was consumed by fire, during the absence of the owner, on -the 13th of March, 1807.</p> -<p>All that the most indefatigable industry could accomplish <a -name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 117</span>was done by -Mr. Johnes, to replace the losses he had sustained; but the Welsh -manuscripts, and many other valuable works and specimens of art -here destroyed, no labour or money could restore. The -actual pecuniary loss suffered by Mr. Johnes, over and above the -20,000<i>l.</i> he was insured, amounted to between 50 and -60,000<i>l.</i>; but, like the destruction of the labours of Lord -Mansfield and Dr. Priestley, no estimate can be put on the loss -the proprietor and the world experienced, in thus rendering -abortive forty years of study, research, and expenditure on -literary valuables. Prior to the decease of Mr. Johnes, who -did not long survive his loss, the exterior of the building was -nearly restored to its former appearance; but the interior -arrangement was considerably altered. He likewise again -established a most sumptuous collection of books, &c. part of -which, the Pesaro library, was on its way from Italy, having been -purchased by Mr. Johnes prior to the conflagration: it comprises -many very valuable books in the Spanish, French, and particularly -the Italian language, rare editions of the classics, and almost -all the productions of the Aldine press.</p> -<p>A minute description of the interior of Havod, prior to the -fire, is given by Mr. Malkin, which is now particularly -interesting. Unfortunately no catalogue of the books and -manuscripts was ever taken, Mr. Johnes not having completed his -collection.</p> -<h4><a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>THE -GENIUS OF HAVOD.</h4> -<blockquote><p>Formal slaves of art, avaunt!<br /> -This is Nature’s secret haunt:<br /> -The Genius of the landscape, I<br /> -Guard it, with a jealous eye—<br /> -Guard it, that no footstep rude<br /> -Upon her privacy intrude.<br /> -Here, with mystic maze, her throne<br /> -Is girt, accessible to none:<br /> -But to the highly-honour’d few<br /> -To whom I deign to lend my clue;<br /> -And chief to him, who in this grove,<br /> -Devotes his life to share her love:<br /> -From whom she seeks no charms to hide,<br /> -For whom she throws her veil aside,<br /> -Instructing him to spread abroad<br /> -Scenes for Salvator—or for Claude.<br /> -Far, oh far hence, let Brown and Eames<br /> -Zig-zag their walks, and torture streams!<br /> -But let them not my dells profane,<br /> -Or violate my Naiad train:<br /> -Nor let their arrogance invade<br /> -My meanest Dryad’s secret shade,<br /> -And with fantastic knots disgrace<br /> -The native honours of the place—<br /> -Making the vet’ran oak give way,<br /> -Some spruce exotic to display:<br /> -Their petty labours he defy’d,<br /> -Who Taste and Nature would divide!</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Anon</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>We now for many miles passed a barren, dreary country, -completely encircled with hills; and we only climbed one to -observe others still rising in the distant perspective: not even -a house or tree appeared to interrupt the <a -name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>awfulness -of the mountains, which, after the copious fall of rain in the -night, teemed with innumerable cataracts. According to our -directions, we enquired at the foot of Plinlimmon for Rhees -Morgan, as a proper man to be our conductor over the heights of -the “fruitful father of rivers.” This man being -absent, the whole family appeared thunderstruck at our -appearance, and ran with all haste imaginable into their -miserable cot. One apartment served for the inhabitants of -every description, with only one small hole to admit the light; -the entrance unprotected by a door, but with a blanket as a -substitute, was exposed to the pitiless blast of the -winter’s storm.</p> -<blockquote><p>“Ah! little think the gay licentious -proud,<br /> -Whom pleasure, power, and affluence surround:<br /> -They, who their thoughtless hours in giddy mirth,<br /> -And wanton, often cruel, riot waste;<br /> -Ah! little think they while they dance along,<br /> -. . . . . . . . . . .<br /> -. . . . how many drink the cup<br /> -Of baleful grief, or eat the bitter bread<br /> -Of misery. Sore pierced by wintry winds,<br /> -How many shrink into the sordid hut<br /> -Of cheerless poverty.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span -class="smcap">Thomson</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>With some difficulty we prevailed on the female part of the -family to give us proper directions to the source of the -meandering Wye, <a name="citation119"></a><a href="#footnote119" -class="citation">[119]</a> and rapid Severn. The latter -they only understood by the name of Halfren, its original British -name; it is likewise called in Latin, Sabrina. From the top -of Plinlimmon we for the first time discovered <a -name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>the shaggy -summit of Cader Idris, and the spiral head of Snowdon. -“With respect to Plinlimmon mountain,” says Mr. -Malkin, “it is inferior only to Snowdon and Cader Idris; if -to the latter, in point of size and height. It takes its -name from five beacons; many of which, if not all, still remain, -and are seen at some distance. We may indeed compare -Plinlimmon with those formidable personages of poetical creation, -who walk with their feet upon the earth, and their heads in the -region of the heavens.” There is nothing particularly -engaging in the character of this mountain, except in its giving -rise to no less than six or eight rivers, and, on this account, -has frequently been celebrated by the Poet. Though its -summit commands a circle of many miles diameter, yet the prospect -by no means answered our expectations. We descended into a -swampy bottom, which afforded us unpleasant walking for two or -three miles, when a most delightful and well-cultivated valley -unexpectedly enlivened our spirits. The sun was making</p> -<blockquote><p>. . . . “a golden set,<br /> -And by the bright track of his fiery car<br /> -Gave signal of a goodly day to-morrow,”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>just as we entered this interesting vale; the hay-makers, in -the coolness of the evening, were returning to their homes,</p> -<blockquote><p>“Each by the lass he loved.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In short, the whole valley breathed delicious fragrance: add -to this, innumerable cataracts rushed from the mountain’s -summits, occasioned by the late copious rains.</p> -<p><a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 121</span>From -hence a good turnpike road soon conducted us to the romantic town -of</p> -<h3>MACHYNLLETH,</h3> -<p>considered as the centre of the woollen manufactory in this -part of the country, principally of the strong cloth, or high -country cloth. <a name="citation121"></a><a href="#footnote121" -class="citation">[121]</a> The situation of Machynlleth (or -as it is pronounced by the Welsh, Mahunthleth), is extremely -romantic; stupendous mountains forming a natural rampart round -the town. This town is supposed to have been the Maglona of -the Romans, and where, in the name of Honorius, a lieutenant was -stationed to awe the mountaineers. It is 206 miles from -London, and 33 from Montgomery: its population, 1,595 -persons. We here visited the neglected mansion where Owen -Glyndour assembled the states of the principality, in the year -1402, and accepted from their hands the crown of Wales. -Part of the house is now converted into a butcher’s -shop:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“Sic transit gloria mundi.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In fine, the only evident remains of its ever having been -celebrated in the annals of history, is a spacious -door-way. The town itself, in many parts, bears the -appearance of antiquity: the streets are considerably wider than -Welsh towns in general, and the market-place is well-built: -tanning and the manufacture of flannels and webs constitute the -principal employment of the inhabitants.</p> -<p>As we entered Machynlleth, being the first town in <a -name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 122</span>North -Wales, we were in a manner instinctively induced to reflect on -the various incidents that had befallen us from our first -sallying forth on our pedestrian excursion. We took a -retrospect of all our little troubles with equally as much -delight as the sailor, who, by the blessing of Providence, has -escaped the most imminent dangers: all our past imaginary dangers -(for imaginary evils are frequently worse than real ones) were -overbalanced with reflections on the many hours of pleasure that -were flown unheeded by: these reflections brought to my -recollection some interesting lines in Bowles’s sonnets, -which I involuntarily exclaimed aloud:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Fair scenes, ye lend a pleasure long -unknown<br /> -To him who passes weary on his way;<br /> -The farewell tear which now he turns to pay<br /> -Shall thank you, and whene’er of pleasures flown<br /> -His heart some long-lost image would renew,<br /> -Delightful haunts! he will remember you.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>At the village of Kevn Kaer are the remains of an oval camp, a -wall, and ditch: evidently Roman, from the coins and other -antiquities found there.</p> -<p>The sublimity of the walk to Talylyn literally “beggars -description.” Having crossed a bridge of eight -arches, thrown over the river Dovey, high mountains closed us on -every side, shook into every possible form of horror; huge masses -of rock hung over our path, and it seemed necessary to remember -their firm basis, to soften the terror they inspired; whilst -other mis-shapen fragments lay scattered at the side of the -road. The transparent Dyflas, whose clear surface reflected -the tremulous picture in all <a name="page123"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 123</span>its colours, forms one continued -cataract for five or six miles, overflowing with the innumerable -tributary torrents which hurry themselves down from the highest -summit of the surrounding rocks; whilst, to give effect to the -whole prospect, the shaggy head of Cader Idris towers, the -majestic sentinel of the scene, whose “cloud capt” -summit the eye aches in surveying. To our great -disappointment, the weather prevented our ascending this -celebrated mountain giant. Cader Idris is esteemed, in -height, the second mountain in all Wales, rising two thousand -eight hundred and fifty feet above the green of Dolgelly. <a -name="citation123"></a><a href="#footnote123" -class="citation">[123]</a></p> -<p>If the weather proves favourable to ascend Cader Idris, -travellers may be very comfortably accommodated with beds at</p> -<h3>TALYLYN;</h3> -<p>a small village, situate at the foot of the mountain; and -where they will likewise meet with a conductor, in every respect -suited for this Alpine excursion. Mr. Jones, the landlord -of the Blue Lion, used all his influence to detain us until the -weather wore a more favourable aspect; but we determined to make -Barmouth our head quarters. Quitting, therefore, our polite -landlord, we soon arrived at the pool of Three Grains, which -though of inferior size, yet is generally credited to be -unfathomable; it abounds in fish, and derives its name from three -immense stones, or rather fragments of rock, near it, <a -name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 124</span>which the -common people confidently assert, and believe, the giant Idris -took out of his shoes as he passed this pool.</p> -<p>Having ascended several hills, a quick descent of three or -four miles soon brought us to</p> -<h3>DOLGELLY,</h3> -<p>surrounded with a “tempestuous sea of mountains,” -and watered by the rapid current of the river Avonvawr, over -which is thrown a large and handsome stone bridge at the entrance -of the town.</p> -<p>This town was known to the Romans, if we may judge from the -coins found at a well in its vicinity, bearing this inscription, -“<span class="smcap">Imp. Cæsar. -Trajan</span>.” It contains 537 houses, and 3064 -inhabitants: but the church is little better than a barn, with a -covered roof, supported by two rows of rude oak pales, and a bare -earth floor.</p> -<p>In the neighbourhood of this romantic spot, and indeed in many -parts of Merionethshire, the manufacture of strong cloth has long -been carried on. <a name="citation124"></a><a href="#footnote124" -class="citation">[124]</a></p> -<p>No one can picture to themselves a more delightful situation -than that of Dolgelly:—an inclosed vale, encircled with the -craggy and subject mountains of Cader <a name="page125"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 125</span>Idris, forming an -amphitheatre,—watered by the Alpine torrent of the -Maw,—and richly clothed with wood. But necessity has -no law; the best inn was pre-occupied, and no comfortable -accommodations could be found; and, though drenched with rain, we -were compelled to quicken our pace to the well known -bathing-place of Barmouth.</p> -<p>Such, at the present day, is not likely to be the fate of the -traveller, as Dolgelly boasts of three inns, the Lion, the Angel, -for travellers without a carriage, and the new inn, called the -Ship. One, two, or more days will be passed here very -pleasantly, either in excursions to Cader Idris, Dol-y-melynllyn, -the waterfalls of the Rhaiadr-du, Rhaiadr y Mawdech and Pistyll y -Cayne; or, under the sanction of Sir R. Hoare, who says he knows -of no place where so many inducements are held out to excite the -traveller to make excursions in its vicinity, he may visit the -vale of the Dee, Caer Gai, an old Roman station, at the end of -the lake of Bala, and Dinas y Mowddu, to enable them to -accomplish which, ponies and a guide are to be procured.</p> -<p>The following is Dr. Mavor’s account of the Cader Idris -Guide, an original Caleb Quotem, and the bill of introduction he -delivered to his employers:</p> -<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Lege, aspice -Conductorem, et ride.</p> -<p style="text-align: center">“<span class="smcap">Robert -Edwards</span>,</p> -<p>second son of the celebrated tanner, William Edwards, ap -Griffith, ap Morgan, ap David, ap Owen, ap Llewellyn, <a -name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>ap -Cadwalader; great, great, great grandson of an illegitimate -daughter of an illustrious hero, (no less famed for his -irresistible prowess, when mildly approaching under the velvet -standards of the lovely Venus, than when sternly advancing with -the terrible banners of the bloody Mars) Sir Rice ap Thomas!!! by -Anne, alias Catherine, daughter of Howill ap Jenkin, of -Ynys-y-maesgwyn; who was the thirteenth in descent from Cadwgan, -a lineal descendant of Bleddyn ap Cynfyn, Prince of Powis. -Since his nativity full two and eighty times hath the sun rolled -to his summer solstice; fifty years was he host of the Hen and -Chickens alehouse, Pen-y-bont, twenty of which he was apparitor -to the late right reverend Father in God, John, Lord Bishop of -Bangor, and his predecessors: by chance, made a glover, by -genius, a fly-dresser and angler. He is now, by the All -Divine assistance, conductor to, and over the most tremendous -mountain Cader Idris, to the stupendous cataracts of Cayne and -Mowddach, and to the enchanting cascades of Dol-y-melynllyn, with -all its beautiful romantic scenery; guide general, and -magnificent expounder of all the natural and artificial -curiosities of North Wales; professor of grand and bombastic -lexicographical words; knight of the most anomalous, whimsical -(yet perhaps happy) order of hair-brained -inexplicables.”</p> -<p>“He is a little slender man, about five feet four inches -in height, and, notwithstanding his advanced age, hopped and -skipped about the room with all the vivacity and agility of a -school-boy. The manner in which he expresses himself is as -droll as his appearance. He was dressed in <a -name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span>a blue coat -with yellow buttons, a pair of old boots, and a cocked hat and -feather of enormous size.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Mr. Pugh, in his Cambria Depicta, gives a portrait of him from -the life, seated on his poney, conducting a party up the -mountain, and adds to his bill the two following lines:</p> -<blockquote><p>“<i>Mark</i>, <i>traveller</i>, what rarely -meets thy view,<br /> -Thy guide, a giddy <i>Boy</i> of eighty-two.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Mr. Warner’s description of the view from the summit of -Cader Idris is just and concise.</p> -<blockquote><p>“The afternoon was gloriously fine, and the -atmosphere perfectly clear, so that the vast unbounded prospect -lay beneath, unobscured by cloud, vapour, or any other -interruption, to the astonished and delighted eye; which threw -its glance over a varied scene, including a circumference of at -least 500 miles. To the north-east was Ireland, like a -distant mist upon the ocean; and a little to the right Snowdon, -and the other mountains of Caernarvonshire. Further on, in -the same direction, the Isle of Man, the neighbourhood of -Chester, Wrexham, and Salop; the sharp head of the Wrekin, and -the undulating summit of the Cleehills. To the south, I saw -the country round Clifton, Pembrokeshire, St. David’s, and -Swansea; to the west, a vast prospect of the British Channel, -bounded by the horizon. Exclusive of these distant objects, -the nearer views were wonderfully striking. Numberless -mountains, of different forms, appearances, and elevation, rose -in all directions; which, with the various harbours, lakes, and -rivers, towns, villages, <a name="page128"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 128</span>and villas, scattered over the -extensive prospect, combined to form a scene inexpressibly -august, diversified, and impressive.” <a -name="citation128"></a><a href="#footnote128" -class="citation">[128]</a></p> -</blockquote> -<p>Mr. Aikin ascended it from Dolgelly. Llyn-y-Gader lies -about a mile and a half on the high road to Towyn, which having -arrived at, we quitted the road, and began our ascent. When -we had surmounted the exterior ridge, we descended a little to a -deep clear lake, which is kept constantly full by the numerous -tributary torrents which fall down the surrounding rocks. -Hence we climbed a second and still higher chain, up a steep but -not difficult track, over numerous fragments of rock, detached -from the higher parts: we now came to a second and more elevated -lake, called Llyn y Cae, clear as glass, and overlooked by steep -cliffs, in such a manner as to resemble the crater of a volcano, -of which a most accurate representation may be seen in -Wilson’s excellent View of Cader Idris. A clear, -loud, and distinct echo repeats every shout which is made near -the lake. The waters of this lake cover an extent of fifty -acres, abounding with trout and other fish. We now began -our last and most difficult ascent, up the summit of Cader Idris -itself. The loose columnar stones lie about in all -directions, assuming in many places so regular an appearance, -that they might be mistaken for Druidic remains. Some of -them stand erect, like Maenhirion, and one is dignified with the -title Llêch Idria. Nearer the summit, numerous masses -of irregular figures present themselves. Having gained this -ascent, a small plain forms the base to two eminences, <a -name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>or rocky -heads, of nearly equal height, one lying towards the north, -called Tyrran Mawr, the other to the south, called Pen y -Gader. We made choice of the latter, which appeared the -most elevated, and seated ourselves upon its highest pinnacle to -rest, after a laborious ascent of three hours. We were now -above all the eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds -gradually cleared away, caught some grand views of the -surrounding country. The huge rocks, which we before looked -up to with astonishment, were now far below our feet, and many a -small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the -north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the scene; on the -west, we saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a -great distance by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer the sea, -dashing its white breakers against the rocky coast of -Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon, -the bay of Swansea, the Channel peeping through the openings of -the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over the -lake of Bala, the two Arennig mountains, the two Arrans, and the -long chain of the Ferwyn mountains, to the Breddin hills, on the -confines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was -beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop. -“In viewing scenes so decidedly magnificent,” says a -pictorial writer, “and to which neither the pen nor the -pencil of the painter can ever do justice; and the contemplation -of which has the power of making ample atonement for having -studied mankind, the soul expanding and sublimed, quickens with a -spirit of divinity, and appears, as it were, associated with the -Deity himself. For, in <a name="page130"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 130</span>the same manner as a shepherd feels -himself ennobled, while sitting with his prince, so, and in a far -more unlimited degree, the beholder feels himself advanced to a -higher scale in the creation, in being permitted to see and to -admire the grandest of the works of nature.” Having -satisfied our curiosity, and being thoroughly chilled by the keen -air of these elevated regions, we began to descend down the side -opposite to that which we had come up.</p> -<p>The first stage led us to another beautiful mountain lake, the -cold clear waters of which discharge their superabundance in a -stream down the side of the mountain. All these lakes -abound with trout, and in some is found the gwniad, a fish -peculiar to rocky Alpine lakes. Following the course of the -stream, we came upon the edge of the craggy cliffs which overlook -Talyllyn lake. A long and difficult descent conducted us, -at last, to the borders of Talyllyn, where we entered the -Dolgelly road.</p> -<p>The mountain</p> -<h3>CADER IDRIS,</h3> -<p>in height the second in Wales, rises on the sea-shore, close -upon the north side of the estuary of the small river Disynwy, -about a mile from Towyn. It proceeds with almost a constant -ascent; first northwards for about three miles, then, for ten -miles further, runs east-north-east, giving out from its summit a -branch nearly three miles long, in a south-west direction, -parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep and craggy on -every side; but the south descent, especially to the border of <a -name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span>Talyllyn -lake, is the most precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. -Its breadth bears but a small proportion to its length; a line -passing along its base, and intersecting the summit, would -scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other parts it -is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds one mile in -breadth. Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of -primitive mountains, extending in a north-north-east direction, -and including the Arrans and the Arennigs. It is much -loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains -which surround it.</p> -<p>The following Ode, by a friend, was written at the fountain -welling from the side of this mountain.</p> -<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">I.</p> -<p>The winds are hush’d: the woods are still;<br /> -And clouds around yon towering hill,<br /> - In silent volumes roll:—<br -/> -While o’er the vale, the moon serene<br /> -Throws yellow on the living green;<br /> -And wakes a harmony between<br /> - The body and the soul.</p> -<p style="text-align: center">II.</p> -<p>Deceitful calm! yon volumes soon,<br /> -Though gilded by the golden moon,<br /> - Will send the thunder’s -roar.<br /> -Gloom will succeed the glowing ray;<br /> -The storm will rage with giant sway;<br /> -And lightnings will illume its way<br /> - Along the billowy shore.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page132"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 132</span>III.</p> -<p>’Tis thus in life, from youth to age,<br /> -Through manhood’s weary pilgrimage,<br /> - What flattering charms infest!<br -/> -We little think beneath a smile,<br /> -How many a war, how many a wile,<br /> -The rich, confiding, heart beguile,<br /> - And rob it of its rest.</p> -<p style="text-align: center">IV.</p> -<p>Then let me near this fountain lie;<br /> -And let old Time in silence fly,<br /> - Stealing my youth away!<br /> -Far from the riot of the mean,<br /> -Oh! let me o’er this fountain lean;<br /> -Till Death has drawn the darksome skreen,<br /> - That hides eternal day.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Mr. Bingley ascended this mountain from the Blue Lion, kept by -Jones, before mentioned, who acts as guide: from this spot Mr. -Bingley declares himself capable of attaining the summit in two -hours, from which he describes the views to be more varied, if -not so extensive, as from Snowdon.</p> -<p>“In descending,” he says, “I took a -direction eastward of that in which I had gone up, and proceeded -along that part of the mountain called Mynydd Moel. The -path in this direction is sufficiently sloping to allow a person -to ride even to the summit. A gentleman, mounted on a -little Welsh poney, had done this a few days before I was -here.”</p> -<p>“About two miles from Dolgelly is the pretty village <a -name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 133</span>of -Llanettyd, and from hence a road through the vale to Maentwrog, -which vale is seen to much advantage from the bridge. From -this village likewise a path leads to Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, -founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of Merioneth, -and sons of Cynan ap Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. -The monks were of the Cistercian order, and the abbey was -dedicated to St. Mary.</p> -<p>“The approach to Barmouth was formerly over a prodigious -mountain, surmounted with great difficulty, and passed with -apprehension of destruction. The magistrates of the county, -however, bent on improvement, agreed with an undertaker to form a -road out of the steep rocks jutting out from the sea, and to -guard it with a wall. The labour was astonishing, the price -two guineas a yard. It is now a most charming road, -exhibiting romantic boldness of scenery.</p> -<p>“A stone bridge of several arches conducts over Wnion, -which here flows many hundred feet wide. On the right, at a -mile distant from the town, on the bank of the river, are the -ruins of Kymmer Abbey. Two miles from Dolgelly is Nanneau -Park, once the residence of Hawel Sele, an inveterate enemy of -Owen Glyndwr, the ancient seat of the family of that name, now of -Sir William Vaughan, Bart. The road is by a steep ascent, -and the house stands on very high ground. Sir Robert -Vaughan erected a new and handsome mansion. In the upper -part of the park are the remains of a British post, called Moel -Orthrwn, or the Hill of Oppression. Returning towards -Barmouth, you regain the road at Llan Ettyd, <a -name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>where the -tide flows to a considerable height. Brigs are built here -of 200 tons burden.</p> -<p>“From Llan Ettyd to Barmouth is ten miles of most -excellent road, winding round the hill opposite to Dolgelly, on a -shelf of rock, through hanging woods, across a handsome stone -bridge over the Mawddach, when it joins the Wnion. The -expanse of water here is considerable at high tide, having the -appearance of a large lake, enveloped by mountains. The -vivid summit of Cader now assumes the appearance of a -volcano. The road follows the inequalities of the shore, -till it occupies a narrow shelf of the perpendicular rock of -Barmouth. Here is a fine view of the river falling into the -beautiful bay of Cardigan.”—<span -class="smcap">Nicholson</span>.</p> -<h3>BARMOUTH.</h3> -<p>It is advisable for all travellers, pedestrians not excepted, -to leave Dolgelly at high water, as without that the scenery -loses much of its beauty; if convenient, it is certainly -preferable to hire a boat at the Stoves; the charge is three -shillings and sixpence; by this you will save a walk of eight -miles, and both from your situation, and from being more at your -ease, will better admit of your observing the surrounding -scenery, with which you cannot fail to be highly gratified.</p> -<p>This short excursion of eight miles is truly grand, awful, and -sublime; and, though many parts of this striking valley are -richly cultivated, yet, by the side of the road, enormous -mountains, formed into the most capricious shapes, shoot into the -clouds, sometimes projecting <a name="page135"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 135</span>so far over the road, as seemingly -designing to impede our farther progress: the wide expanse of the -ocean in front, with the arm of the sea running up the country in -the centre of the valley; in fine, the <i>tout ensemble</i> -claimed our highest admiration.</p> -<p>Barmouth, though considered as a bathing-place, is very -inferior to Tenby, yet its situation for grandeur of rocks has -been frequently compared by many tourists to Gibraltar, and by -others esteemed not unlike St. Kitts, in the West Indies. -The vast sand-banks, formed by the tides, immediately in front of -the town, are the only barriers which protect it from the -inundations of the sea. The shore is extremely level, and -affords, for many miles, excellent riding.</p> -<p>Barmouth is the only port in the county of Merioneth; but the -entrance to it is difficult. The town is built on ledges of -rock, one rising above another, so that the inhabitants of one -street look down upon the chimnies of that which is before -them.</p> -<p>The board and lodging is regulated on the same excellent plan -here as at Tenby, with very little difference in respect to the -expense. We could not avoid observing the number of pigs, -which are esteemed in this part of the country far superior to -any in England, lying in every corner of the street; and these -pigs, I rather imagine, consider themselves, during the night, -inmates of the peasant’s cottage: yet these hardships, if -they may be distinguished by that name, the inhabitants of the -hovel suffer without complaint, and deem themselves perfectly -happy as long as they possess a pile of turf to keep off the -inclemency of the winter’s blast, a small strip of ground -<a name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>well -stocked with potatoes, some poultry, and a fat pig: one hovel, -however, protects them all. Though, to appearance, their -situation is most miserable, yet it has no effect on their -tempers and dispositions; their hospitality, and indeed kindness, -towards strangers in distress, is an interesting trait in their -character: to instance this, I am induced to mention an anecdote -which took place at Hubberstone, not long ago. A lady, -anxiously waiting the arrival of her husband from Ireland, at the -miserable village of Hubberstone, soon interested even the meaner -inhabitants of the place in her behalf; who, willing to render -her situation as comfortable as possible, seemed to vie with each -other in producing the most delicious fruits, and the choicest -garlands of flowers, to present them to the unhappy consort; and, -not content alone with this, she was generally greeted in the -streets, with the phrase, “There goes poor Mrs. -L—.” The lady, at last, impatient for the -arrival of her husband, determined to sail for Ireland. The -faithfulness of the little group that accompanied her to the -shore can better be imagined than described; the last farewell, -with tears of artless innocence, and the beseeching that -Providence “who governs the waves, and stills the raging of -the sea,” to grant her a prosperous voyage, all this seemed -to come so thoroughly from the bottom of their hearts, that we -cannot avoid feeling ourselves interested in their behalf.</p> -<p>The road from hence to</p> -<h3>HARLECH</h3> -<p>is stony and uninteresting; to the left, an unbounded <a -name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>view of the -wide ocean; and, in front, the steep mountains of North Wales -rose in endless perspective. About four miles from -Barmouth, we passed the two lodges at Tal-y-bont, leading to -Corsy-Gedol, the seat of Sir Thomas Mostyn. It is -practicable to go by the sands; but we were given to understand -that the turnpike road was, if anything, shorter, the scenery -more pleasing, and the guides necessary for crossing those -dangerous sands, in general, most complete villains.</p> -<p>Harlech, anciently called Twr-Bronwen, though formed by King -Edward I. into a borough, can now be esteemed little more than a -dirty village: the present castle, one of the most entire in -Wales, is founded on a very high rock, projecting into the Irish -sea. It consists of a square building, each side measuring -about seventy yards, having at every corner a round tower. -From each of these issued formerly a round turret, except one or -two, all now destroyed. The fortifications, fosses, and its -situation on the verge of a perpendicular rock, rendered it -almost invulnerable.</p> -<p>This castle is one of the strongest and handsomest in -Wales. It is in the possession of the Crown, and in time of -war has a small garrison for the defence of the coast. From -the top of the walls to the marsh the height is very -considerable, and from thence the bay of Cardigan is seen to -great advantage: in addition to this, the shagged summits of -Cader Buchan and Snowdon, in Caernarvonshire, being enveloped in -clouds, appear scarcely visible.</p> -<p>At the public-house we accidentally met with a well-informed -man, who minutely delineated every part of the <a -name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>castle; -and, beginning with the founder, in the true characteristic style -of a Welshman, ran through his pedigree several generations: -this, however, did not interest us cursory pedestrians; and, with -little persuasion, we soon induced him to write down, in as -concise a manner as possible, any information he was acquainted -with respecting the castle: “The founder of Harlech Castle, -<span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 552, was Maelgwyn; Gwynedd; -made Caer Dugoll (Shrewsbury); Caer Gyffin (Aber Conway); Caer -Gollwyn (Harleck); supposed to be buried in Cirencester, and -reigned thirty-four years.” Whether this information -is correct, I will not take upon me to assert; but meeting with a -Welshman in this part of the country capable of writing, rather -surprised us, and induced me to transcribe this short -paragraph.</p> -<p>In the year 1408 it was taken by the Earl of Pembroke, and -afforded likewise shelter to Margaret of Anjou, after the battle -of Northampton in 1460; and was the last in North Wales which -held out for the King, being surrendered to General Mytton in -1647.</p> -<p>In a garden near this castle was dug up, in the year 1692, an -ancient golden torques, of a round form, an inch in -circumference, and weighing eight ounces. This curious -relic of British antiquity, exhibited in a drawing by Mr. -Pennant, still continues in the possession of the Mostyn -family. As we had not an opportunity of examining the -original, this account can only be gathered from the information -of former authors, who represent it as “a wreathed bar, or -rather three or four rods twisted together, about four feet long, -flexible, but bending naturally <a name="page139"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 139</span>only one way, in form of a hat-band: -it originally had holes at each end, not twisted or sharp, but -plain, and cut even.”</p> -<p>In the year 1694, the prodigious phenomenon of fire or kindled -exhalation, which disturbed the inhabitants of this -neighbourhood, is both singular and extraordinary: sixteen ricks -of hay, and two barns, were burnt by a kindled exhalation, or -blue weak flame, proceeding from the sea: this lasted about a -fortnight or three weeks, poisoning the grass, and firing it for -the space of a mile. It is extraordinary, that it had no -effect on the men who interposed their endeavours to save the -ricks from destruction, even by running into it. For a more -accurate account of this singular phenomenon, I refer my readers -to the Philosophical Transactions, No. 208, and likewise to the -Addenda in Camden: suffice it to say, that the air and grass were -so infected, that it occasioned a great mortality of cattle, -horses, sheep, and goats. The various conjectures that have -been formed, to account for this kindled exhalation, seem to be -very unsatisfactory; something similar to this, both in the -appearance and in the effect, happened in France, in the year -1734.</p> -<p>As, from the unfavourableness of the weather, we had not -contemplated the rich scenery between Barmouth and Dolgelly, with -that nice investigation which it deserved, we determined, by -returning to our obliging landlady at the Corsy-Gedol arms, to -seize the opportunity of again admiring its beauties; and, by -taking a more circuitous route to the vale of Festiniog, pay that -attention to the falls of Doll-y-mullin, Moddach, and Cayne, -which they so deservedly require.</p> -<p><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 140</span>This -second saunter we found by no means tedious: the scene seemed -perpetually changing at every unexpected curvature of the road; -and the rude features of the mountains appeared to assume new -forms, as the winding presented them to the eye in different -positions; whilst the shifting vapours, which partially concealed -their minuter grandeur, assisted the illusions of the -sight. Amidst new woods, rising in the majesty of foliage, -the scattered cottage, with its bluish smoke curling high in the -air, was frequently rendered interesting by its neat simplicity; -and served to constitute the romantic beauties of this -picturesque ramble.</p> -<p>This pleasing scenery varied little till we arrived within two -miles of Dolgelly, when several gentlemen’s seats burst -upon our sight; and leaving that enchanting spot to the left, at -the Laneltyd turnpike, a different object presented itself to our -view. For four miles we walked by the side of a hill, the -most translucent stream attending us the whole way; for, though -the road was situated so much above it, yet the sandy bottom, -with the finny tribe, in considerable numbers sporting in this -transparent element, were easily descried. On each side, -the mountains rose to a considerable height, with the craggy -summit of Cader Idris claiming the pre-eminence. We soon -arrived at the small ale-house, (Traveller’s Rest), where -we met the labourer of Mr. Madox, whom we were recommended to -inquire for, as a proper cicerone to the water-falls in his -vicinity. Having finished our scanty but wholesome repast, -we repaired with an old woman (the labourer being confined to the -house by indisposition), to the fall of Doll-y-mullin. -There appeared to be something <a name="page141"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 141</span>singular in the appearance of this -“mountain elf:” destitute of shoes and stockings, in -the true Cambrian style, she tripped it, occasionally singing, -and sometimes discontented with the world, herself, and every -thing, uttering a most dismal groan. This excited our -curiosity; but, to learn much of her situation we soon found -impracticable; her knowledge of the English language was very -trivial; and, as she seemed not much inclined to give us any -information respecting the adjacent country, we found it useless -to make inquiries concerning her condition in life.</p> -<p>Our surly conductress first led us through Mr. Madox’s -grounds; to the left of the Tan-y-bwlch road, by a most -delightful walk cut through the wood, we soon reached the Fall of -Doll-y-mullin, the roaring of which had a long time announced its -vicinity. This cataract, though considered only as a -prelude to the grand Falls of the Cayne and Moddach, is still -worthy the attention of the passing traveller: for, though the -river precipitates itself not more than fifty feet, yet, the -projection and situation of the rocks, and the thick oak -carelessly throwing its broad brown arms across the troubled -waters, is singularly pleasing. We had hitherto only -contemplated this scene from the foot of the fall; but how noble -the effect when we began to wind up the steep ascent, and paused -at every basin, which the water had formed in the excavated -rock!</p> -<p>By a retrograde saunter we soon gained the Tan-y-bwlch road; -and, passing over the romantic bridge of Pont ar Garfa, -beautifully entwined with the rich drapery of ivy, we ascended a -steep path over the slaty mountain <a name="page142"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 142</span>of Tylyn Gwladys, two miles in -extent.—Sublimity, indeed, gave place to elegance: behind -us, the huge steep of Cader Idris, lifting high above the rolling -cloud its shaggy head, of which, at intervals, we caught a glance -through the thick mist which enveloped it; in front, Snowdon, -conscious of pre-eminence, rose in the distant perspective: these -were the boundaries of our view. On the opposite side a -barren mountain, dignified by the name of Prince of Wales, -appeared scarcely accessible, but to the steps of the -enthusiast. This formerly afforded a vast quantity of ore, -but it has lately so much failed, as not to produce even a -sufficiency to remunerate the miners. While traversing -these barren mountains, it is not less singular than interesting -occasionally to meet the most delicious valleys, watered by some -foaming river; these are often literally surcharged</p> -<blockquote><p>“With weighted rains, and melted Alpine -snows.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Such is the true characteristic of the Welsh scenery: the -finest verdure and the most enchanting valleys are discovered in -the bosom of sterility; where natural cascades, precipitating -themselves from their rude pinnacles, alone disturb the silence -which reigns in that asylum. These render it more -enchanting to the inquisitive pedestrians, for these landscapes -are only accessible to their steps: and the distant swell of the -cataract had now long proclaimed our proximity to the object in -pursuit. The Falls of the Cayne and the Moddach are at no -great distance from one another, being only separated by a thick -wood. Crossing a small bridge, above fifty feet from the -water, <a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -143</span>formed only by the trunk of an oak, which has -accidentally fallen across the rapid torrent, our conductress -very judiciously selected the latter as the first object of our -admiration. The computed measurement of this fall is -estimated at between seventy and eighty feet, dividing itself -into three distinct parts, each finely broken by the projected -rocks. The quantity of water is very inconsiderable; but -the whole is admirably presented to the eye in one view. -The first fall, about twenty feet, precipitates itself into a -deep pool, thirty feet diameter; from thence over a second ledge, -thirty feet high; and, lastly, it discharges itself into a pool -of considerable dimensions. The declivities of the rocks -are luxuriantly clothed with wood; the oak more particularly -spreading its gigantic arms across the foaming torrent: a variety -of trees, indeed, profusely embellish the whole of this glen, -which are finely contrasted with the dark brown rocks; -constituting so finished a picture, and representing such a -variety of colours, that their beauties can be better conceived -than described.</p> -<p>We now returned to the Fall of the Cayne, infinitely superior -to any in Wales, being two hundred feet perpendicular, -uninterrupted by rocks, and not intercepted by the thick wood -which encircles it. For a considerable time we both of us -gazed with that rapt admiration, which loathes to be disturbed by -the mutual exchange of ideas; and, stunned with the continual -uproar, and never-ceasing tumultuous motion of the sparkling -foam, we silently admired the grandeur of the landscape. On -each side the horrific crags seemed to bid defiance to the -goat’s activity. The Cayne, after this stunned -cataract, throws <a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -144</span>its troubled waters over a rocky bed, till it unites -itself with the Moddach below.</p> -<p>“The feelings with which we view objects of the above -description,” says the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, -and Sublimities of Nature, “oppose the theory of Mr. Burke, -who confines sublimity to objects of terror; those of Lord -Kaimes, and Dr. Gerrad, who make it to consist in magnitude, and -Dr. Blair, who places it in ‘force,’ are equally -erroneous. The idea of Longinus, were we to associate -sublimity in poetry with that of the material world, (which we -are, however, not authorized to do,) is far from being -correct. He defines it ‘a proud elevation of -mind.’ When applied to material objects, this is -neither cause nor consequence; for the experience of every man, -from the proudest of princes to the humblest of peasants, -proclaims, that the effect of all sublimity is astonishment, -blended with awe: and when, at one moment, did pride and awe -unite in the same bosom? The difference between sublimity -of writing, and sublimity in objects, has not been sufficiently -distinguished by the several writers on the subject of -taste. No objects are beautiful and sublime, but by virtue -of association. If they were, the Vale of Aylesbury would -be beautiful to him, who had long resided in the Vale of Clwyd: -and the Cliffs of Dover and the Peaks of Scotland would be -equally sublime to the native of Crim Tartary and the peasant of -the Tyrol. The opinions of many philosophers, in respect to -the pleasure we derive from objects, which excite our pity, are -equally false. The Abbé du Bos, Fontenelle, Hume, -Akenside, and Burke, are all in error. We must refer to -principles; and the principle in this argument resolves itself -into the <a name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -145</span>conclusion, that misfortune elicits sympathy, after the -same manner that magnets affine, and planets gravitate. But -actual final causes we have no power to define; though we -frequently presume to do so. Man, indeed, has the faculty -of judging, limitedly, of effects; but vain, proud, and arrogant -as he is, he can only reason hypothetically, when he would treat -of final causes and of final consequences.”</p> -<p>With reluctance we left this romantic situation; and, -according to the directions of our conductress, soon found -ourselves in the turnpike-road to Tan-y-bwlch, understanding that -Mr. Warner’s route to Pen-street afforded indifferent -walking. Stupendous mountains attended us some way; and, to -borrow a description from a celebrated author, they “looked -like the rude materials of creation, forming the barrier of -unwrought space.” The sun was now making a -“golden set:” the mountains were thrown together in -noble masses, appearing to scale the heavens, to intercept its -rays, and emulous to receive the parting tinge of lingering -day. We were watching with admiration the mild splendour of -its light, fading from the distant landscape, when we perceived -the rich vale of Festiniog suddenly open itself to our view: we -observed the busy group of haymakers, who had completed their -day’s labour, returning to their homes:</p> -<blockquote><p>“While heard from dale to dale,<br /> -Waking the breeze, resounds the blended voice<br /> -Of happy labour, love, and social glee.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Pleased with this rustic scene, we caught the cheerful song, -which was wafted on the gentle breeze. With pleasure <a -name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>we -anticipated a saunter through this vale, early the ensuing -morning: for one tint of sober grey had now covered its -various-coloured features, and the sun had now gleamed its last -light upon the rivulet which winds through the bottom.</p> -<h3>TAN-Y-BWLCH.</h3> -<p>The “rich-hair’d youth of morn” had not long -left his saffron bed, and the very air was balmy as it freshened -into morn, when we hurried from our inn to enjoy the luxuries of -the vale of Festiniog, so well celebrated by the pen of Lord -Littleton: “With the woman one loves, with the friend of -one’s heart, and a good study of books, one may pass an age -there, and think it a day. If one has a mind to live long, -and renew his youth, let him come and settle at -Festiniog.” These are the sentiments of Lord -Littleton, in which seemed to be verified the situation of Mr. -Oakley, who has selected this spot for his residence. -Tan-y-Bwlch hall (for by that name is Mr. Oakley’s seat -dignified) is environed by a thick wood, which climbs the steep -mountains behind his mansion. We followed the meandering -and translucent waters of the river Dwyryd, till we arrived at -the village of Maenwrog, situated about the middle of this -paradise. Passing through the village we observed a small -but neat cottage, which was rendered interesting to the wayfarer, -by its neat simplicity. A large old-fashioned -chimney-corner, with benches to receive a social party, formed a -most enviable retreat from the rude storms of winter, and defied -alike the weather and the world:—with what pleasure did I -picture</p> -<blockquote><p><a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -147</span>“A smiling circle, emulous to please,”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>gathering round a blazing pile of wood on the hearth, free -from all the vicissitudes and cares of the world; happy in their -own home, blessed in the sweet affection of kindred amity, -regardless of the winter blast that struggled against the window, -and the snow that pelted against the roof. On our entering, -the wife, who possessed “the home of happiness, an honest -breast,” invited us to take a seat under the window; which, -overlooking the village, and the dark tower of the church, -offered the delights of other seasons. The sweets of a -little garden joined its fragrance to the honey-suckle, which -enwreathed with rich drapery the windows; and here too lay the -old family Bible, which had been put aside on our first -entrance. We regretted our not having had an opportunity of -seeing the husband, whom I make no doubt</p> -<blockquote><p>“Envied not, and never thought of kings,<br -/> -Nor from those appetites sustain’d annoy,<br /> -That chance may frustrate, or indulgence cloy;<br /> -Each season look’d delightful as it past,<br /> -To the fond husband, and the faithful wife.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“About a mile east of this village,” says Mr. -Evans, “are two remarkable waterfalls, called Rhaiadr Du, -on the river Cynvel, one about three hundred yards above, and the -other below, a rustic bridge thrown over the river, to which it -leads. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, over -which the water foams into a deep black bason, overshadowed by -the adjoining rocks. The other is formed by a broad sheet -of water, precipitated down <a name="page148"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 148</span>a rock forty feet high, and darkened -by the numerous foliage around it, almost to the edge of the -stream. Between the cataract and the bridge is a tall -columnar rock, called the pulpit of <i>Hugh Llwyd Cynvel</i>, and -situate in the bed of the river, from whence, sage tradition -says, a magician used to deliver his nocturnal -incantations.” There are few objects in Wales more -worthy to be visited than these waterfalls.</p> -<p>From Festiniog, a pleasant excursion may be made to Tremadoc -and Criccaeth, and from thence to Pwllheli and Bardsey -island. Tremadoc, which is situate at the mouth of the -Traeth Mawr, in the promontory of Llyn, is about eight miles from -Pont-Aber-Glaslyn: its situation is low, being three feet below -low water-mark, built on land reclaimed from the sea, by the -spirited exertions of the late William Alexander Madocks, Esq. of -Tany-yr-alt.</p> -<p>The town, which is an oblong square, contains a handsome -market-house, over which are assembly rooms: a church, a good -inn, the Tremadoc Arms, and a bank. The reclaimed land -consists of about two thousand acres, which, in less than three -years, was covered with vegetation; it now produces excellent -crops of wheat, barley, clover, &c. &c.</p> -<p>Mr. Madocks, after having succeeded in this arduous -undertaking, set about the still more difficult one of throwing -an embankment across the mouth of the Traeth Mawr; as an -inducement for the accomplishing of which, a grant was made to -him from the crown, in 1807, of the whole of these sands, from -Pontaber-glasllyn to the point of Gêst.</p> -<p><a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>The -length of the embankment, from north to south, would be about a -mile; its breadth at the base one hundred feet, at the top -thirty. The whole of this has been completed to within one -hundred yards in the centre, and it is to be hoped this noble -work will still be accomplished: funds only seem now necessary -for its completion: strong chain cables extended across the -opening, and hulks then sunk and filled would soon allow them to -finish the embankment. After seeing those in North Holland -nothing is to be despaired of. Long faggots, from seven to -ten feet, straw, rushes, and sand are the best sea-walls, sloping -them gradually for the rise of the tide. Those in Holland -seemed constantly to have been increased by the action of the -sea, instead of having been diminished.</p> -<h3>CRICCAETH</h3> -<p>is a small borough and market town. Its population is -now about four hundred: it, jointly with Caernarvon, &c. -sends a member to parliament.</p> -<p>Its ruined castle is not unworthy of attention; it stands on -an eminence projecting into the sea, and the entrance to it by -land, being only along an isthmus, defended by a double foss and -vallum, it must formerly have been strong. The gateway is -between two towers, or bastions, externally round, but square -within; the facings of which are ascribed to Edward the First: -the other towers are entirely square. There have been two -courts, but neither of them large, nor indeed has the whole -castle been a building of any other than small extent.</p> -<p><a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span>It is -now in a ruinous state. The view from the ruins over the -bay to Haerlech is beautiful. In the neighbourhood of -Pwllheli are several respectable family seats; and the country in -its vicinity is generally better cultivated than the rest of the -promontory: the town itself is irregular and unpleasant; but it -carries on a good coasting trade, and vessels of considerable -burthen are here built. The petty sessions for the district -of Llyn are held here; it is likewise contributory to Caernarvon, -in sending a member to parliament. Along the coast to -Bardsey Island, a considerable trade in fishing is carried -on. Herrings frequent this coast in great abundance, and -are very fine: some are cured here, and quantities sold to the -Irish. Here likewise are taken both john dories and smelts; -the former of which was rejected by the fishermen on the score of -its ugliness.</p> -<p>To sail from hence to Bardsey Island is both tedious and -dangerous. Passing the bay called Hell’s Mouth, of -which Mr. Bingley says, “I never saw a place which -presented so favourable an appearance, and that was at the time -so much dreaded by the mariners as the present. It is at -the very end of the promontory, and from point to point is -supposed to measure about eight miles; it is also nearly -semicircular. None but strange vessels, even in the most -boisterous weather, ever seek for shelter here; and when they are -so unfortunate, they are soon stranded, and never again -return. ‘We remember,’ says Mr. Jones, in one -of his letters, ‘more misfortunes to have happened in this -bay, and more inhumanity shewn to the sufferers, than we have -ever heard of any where else on the Welsh coast.’ My -pilot, who had been long <a name="page151"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 151</span>acquainted with every part of these -coasts, informed me, that, from whatever point of the compass the -wind blew out at sea, on account of the surrounding high rocks, -it always came into the mouth of this bay; and from whatever -quarter the tide flowed, the upper current here always sets -inwards. From these circumstances the common tradition is, -that the place obtained the appellation of <i>Hell’s -Mouth</i>.</p> -<p>“The whole coast, from the Rivals round the end of the -land, nearly to Pwllheli, is terminated only by high and steep -rocks, inhabited in the summer by a variety of -sea-fowl.” Mr. Bingley, having failed in his attempt -to land in Bardsey, gives the following account of that island, -from the letters of the Rev. — Jones, vicar of Aberdaron, -to whose parish it belongs.</p> -<h3>ISLAND OF BARDSEY.</h3> -<p>“This island, which is the property of Lord Newborough, -is somewhat more than two miles long, and one in breadth, and -contains about three hundred and seventy acres of land; of which -nearly one-third is occupied by a high mountain, that affords -feed only for a few sheep and rabbits. Its distance from -the main land is about a league. Towards the south-east and -south-west it lies entirely open, but on the north and north-east -it is sheltered by its mountain, which to the sea presents a face -of perpendicular, and in some parts overhanging rocks. -Among these precipices the intrepid inhabitants, in the spring of -the year, employ themselves in collecting the eggs of the various -sea-fowl that frequent them. This is usually done -bare-footed, to prevent them from slipping <a -name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>from -heights, whence they must be dashed to pieces; and their concern -for their safety while seizing these eggs, is infinitely less -than that of the beholder, sitting securely in the boat -below.</p> -<blockquote><p>Nor untrembling canst thou see,<br /> -How from a craggy rock, whose prominence<br /> -Half o’ershades the ocean, hardy men<br /> -Fearless of dashing waves do gather them.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“These poor fellows do not often meet with accidents, -except by the giving way of pieces of the rock. In this -case they are irrecoverably lost. The men who venture -without ropes are accounted by the natives the most bold -climbers: those who are more cautious fix a rope about their -middle, which is held by some persons on the top of the -rock. By this they slip down to the place where they think -the most eggs are to be found. Here, untying it from their -body, they fasten it to the basket that is to contain the eggs, -which they carry in their hand. When this is filled, they -make a signal to their companions to draw them up. In this -manner they proceed from rock to rock, ascending or descending as -they find it necessary. They adopt the same modes in -collecting samphire, with which the rocks also abound.</p> -<p>“On the south-east side of the island, the only side on -which it is accessible to the mariner, there is a small but -well-sheltered harbour, capable of admitting vessels of thirty or -forty tons burthen. In this the inhabitants secure their -own fishing-boats. The soil is principally clay, <a -name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 153</span>and -produces excellent barley and wheat; vetches, peas, and beans, -are said to succeed sufficiently well; but to oats it is not so -favourable. Trees will not grow here, the keen westerly -winds immediately destroying the young plants. Indeed, -except a small quantity of fine meadow land, all the lower ground -of the island is of little value. No reptile is ever seen -in this island, except the common water lizard. None of the -inhabitants ever saw in it a frog, toad, or snake of any -kind.</p> -<p>“Till about fourteen years ago, no sparrows had been -known to breed here: three nests were, however, built, during the -same spring, and the produce has since completely colonized the -place.</p> -<p>“There are here but eight houses, although the number of -inhabitants is upwards of seventy. Two or three of the -principal of these rent the island of Lord Newborough. They -pay for it a hundred guineas a-year, and have their land tithe -free; and are also freed from taxes and rates of every -description. They keep about twenty horses and near thirty -cows. All the former, though greatly overstocking so small -a place, are absolutely necessary, on account of the great labour -required in carrying up the sea-weeds from the coast for -manure.</p> -<p>“The sheep are small, and on the approach of a stranger, -as Mr. Jones informs me, they squall not much unlike hares. -Their activity is very remarkable. In the year 1801, Mr. -Jones had one of them on his farm, at Aberdaron, that had twice -ventured through the sea, though the channel is three miles -across, and regained the island. The inhabitants train -their dogs to catch them; but if the sheep once gain the rocks, -they bid defiance to <a name="page154"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 154</span>every attempt for the time, as, -rather than suffer themselves to be seized, they will plunge from -thence into the sea. At the time of the year when the -females usually drop their offspring, the inhabitants watch them -every day, and before they are able to follow their dams, they -mark them in the ears: they then suffer them to range at -liberty. Without this attention, from the extreme wildness -of the animals, the owners would never be able to distinguish -their respective property. Some few of the sheep of the -island, from having been rendered tame when young, are more -easily managed: these alone submit to be folded in the -evening.</p> -<p>“Curiosity induces many persons to visit this island -almost every summer; but the grandest sight the present -inhabitants ever witnessed, was a visit of the proprietor, Lord -Newborough, and several persons of distinction, in the whole to -the number of about forty. This company embarked in -fishing-smacks from Porther, near Carreg Hall, in the parish of -Aberdaron. On their arrival in the island marquees were -immediately pitched. The whole company dined in the open -air; and at the conclusion of their repast, all the inhabitants -were assembled. The ensuing scene reminded a gentleman of -my acquaintance, who was present, of what he had read respecting -the inhabitants of some of the South Sea islands. They were -drawn up into a circle, and Lady Newborough adorned the heads of -the females with caps and ribbons, whilst Lord Newborough -distributed hats among the men. The nominal king and queen -of the island were distinguished from the rest by an additional -ribbon.”</p> -<p><a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>Mr. -B. concludes by giving the following history of Bardsey.</p> -<p>“The Welsh name of this place is Ynys-Enlli. -During the violent struggles between the Welsh and English, it -was styled by the poets the sanctuary or asylum of the Saints, -and it was sometimes denominated the Isle of Refuge. Some -of these poets assert that it was the cemetery of <i>twenty -thousand saints</i>! <a name="citation155"></a><a -href="#footnote155" class="citation">[155]</a></p> -<p>“The reputed sanctity of this island induced the -religious to resort to it, from many very distant parts of the -country. It has been asserted by several writers, that -Roderic Moelwynog, prince of North Wales, first founded here a -monastery, some time in the eighth century. He might, -perhaps, rebuild or enlarge it, but there are good grounds, from -Welsh manuscripts, for supposing that there was a religious house -in this island of a much more early date. There is an old -legend yet extant, written in Monkish Latin, which assures us -that the Almighty had entered into a particular covenant with -Laudatus, the first abbot of Bardsey, in return for the piety of -his monks. This granted to all the religious of the -monastery of Bardsey, the peculiar privilege of dying according -to seniority, the oldest always going off first. By this -privilege, it is stated, that every one knew very nearly the time -of his departure. The following is a translation of -it:—‘At the original foundation of the monastery of -this island, the Lord God who attendeth to the petitions of the -just, at the earnest request of the <a name="page156"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 156</span>holy Laudatus, the first abbot, -entered into a covenant with that holy man, and miraculously -confirmed his promise, unto him, his successors, the abbots and -monks for ever, while they should lead holy and religious lives, -that they should die by succession, that is, that the oldest -should die first, like a shock of corn ripe for the sickle. -Being thus warned of the approach of death, each of them, -therefore, should watch, as not knowing at what exact hour the -thief might come; and, being thus always prepared, each of them -by turns should lay aside his earthly form. God, who is -ever faithful, kept his covenant, as he formerly did with the -Israelites, inviolable; until the monks no longer led a religious -life, but began to profane and defile God’s sanctuary by -their fornications and abominable crimes. Wherefore, after -this, they were permitted to die like other men, sometimes the -older, sometimes the younger, and sometimes the middle-aged -first; and, being thus uncertain of the approach of death, they -were compelled to submit to the general laws of mortality. -Thus, when they ceased to lead a holy and religious life, -God’s miraculous covenant also ceased: and do thou, -therefore, O God, have mercy upon us.”</p> -<p>The ancient building is now entirely destroyed; but, about the -ground where the monastery stood, a great number of graves have -very lately been discovered, lined with white stone or tile, and -distant about two feet from each other. All the religious -duties of the inhabitants are now performed in the parish church -of Aberdaron. Sometimes, however, in stormy weather, they -are under the necessity of interring their own dead in the -island.</p> -<p><a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 157</span>At -Pwllheli good accommodation will be found at the Crown and Anchor -Inn, but if proceeding farther into Llyn, the traveller must -depend solely on the hospitality of individuals.</p> -<h3>PWLLHELI.</h3> -<p>The market-days at this place are Wednesdays and -Saturdays. Its population is rated at about thirteen -hundred. The beach here is excellent; and so much resorted -to in the summer season, that it appears probable it will grow -into notice as a sea bathing-place. Several hundred acres -of land in the vicinity of the town, which used to be overflowed -by high tides, have been reclaimed by embankments on both sides -of the town. It is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and a -recorder.</p> -<p>Returning from Pwllheli towards Criccaeth, the country wears -the most beautiful aspect. The richly wooded scenery is -relieved by shaggy rocks and partial views of the sea being -caught through the opening glades. Passing Llandstundwy, -situate on the river Dwyfor, which after heavy rains overflows -its banks, and greatly incommodes it, I left the road, and -proceeded by Trefan Hall, the handsome mansion of Mr. Roberts, to -a cromlech, about a mile distant, called Coeten Arthur, or -Arthur’s Quoit, which the said Arthur, as report says, -threw from a mountain near Beddgelert. It is handsome and -in high preservation: the top stone is nearly three feet in -thickness. But a still finer cromlech is about a mile from -this, at a farm called Ystim Cegid; the flat stone of this is -about eighteen inches in thickness, and is about thirty-six <a -name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>feet in -circumference: its form is triangular, and its supporters of that -height, that will allow a man on horseback to go under it; this -also is called Arthur’s Quoit. From hence to -Criccaeth the road is dull and uninteresting: near the ruins of -the small chapel of Bettws, is Chewilog, an old mansion, formerly -belonging to the ancestors of Sir Howel, surnamed y-Fwyall, from -his remarkable dexterity in the use of the battle-axe, which -weapon he used with such effect in the battle of Poictiers, that -the capture of the French monarch is, by many, ascribed to him; -at all events, his conduct on that day drew down upon him the -regards of the Black Prince to such extent, that he not only -bestowed upon him the constableship of Criccaeth Castle, but -likewise knighted him; and, in perpetual memorial of his good -services, it was directed that a mess of meat should, at the -expence of the crown, be every day served up before the axe with -which he had performed such good service. After the mess -had been brought before the knight, it was taken and distributed -among the poor. Eight yeomen attendants were constituted to -guard the mess, who received each eight-pence a-day pay, and were -termed yeomen of the crown: these were continued on the -establishment till the reign of Queen Elizabeth; and it is by -many conceived, and by no means improbable, that the yeomen of -the crown, which we do not read of in history till the reign of -Henry the Seventh, are indebted to these for their origin. -After the death of Sir Howel, the mess was still carried before -the axe, and bestowed on the poor for the repose of his -soul. Besides the above honours conferred upon him, he was -constable of Chester Castle; <a name="page159"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 159</span>had Dwyfor and others, the -king’s mills, to farm; with a grant of the weirs and -fisheries on the coast, and many other offices of great trust and -profit.</p> -<p>Between Criccaeth and Penmorva you pass Stumllyn, formerly the -seat of the Wynnes, now the seat of — Jones, Esq. of -Machynlleth. Near Clenenney, on Bwlch Craig Wenn, is a fine -Druidical circle, consisting at present of thirty-eight stones; -and about a mile from this, above Penmorva, is another. On -Llysdin farm some small urns, containing human bones and ashes, -have lately been discovered. At a small distance is -Brynkir, where Lord Lyttleton took up his residence when he -visited this part of the principality. This part of the -country was formerly the seat of dreadful feuds, and appears to -have been inhabited by a most ferocious and irascible set of -beings. They were of two clans, one descended from Owen -Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales; the other was derived from -Collwyn ap Tangno. The history of Evionedd, or Eifionydd, -is during that period one of revenge, perfidy, and slaughter; and -to such extent was it carried, that Meredith ap Jevan preferred -taking up his residence in Dolwyddelan Castle, at that time -surrounded by robbers and freebooters, to residing in this -district, giving to his friends the following decisive reason: -“If,” said he, “I live in my own house in -Evionedd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or submit to be -murdered by them.” He, therefore, rather chose to -fight with thieves and outlaws than with his own immediate -relatives.</p> -<p>“They would quarrel,” says Sir John Wynne, -“if it was but for the mastery of the country, and the -first <a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -160</span>good morrow. John Owen, ap John, ap Meredydd, and -Howel ap Madoc Vychan, fell out for no other reason. Howel -and his people fought valiantly: when he fell, his mother placed -her hand on his head, to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her -hand and three of her fingers cut off, by some of her nearest -kindred. An attempt was made to kill Howel ap Rhys, in his -own house, by the sons of John ap Meredith, for no other reason -than that their servants had quarrelled about a fishery. -The first set fire to the mansion with great bundles of -straw:—the besieged, terrified with the flames, sheltered -themselves under forms and benches, while Rhys, the old hero, -stood sword in hand, reproaching his men with cowardice, and -telling them he had often seen a greater smoke in that hall on -Christmas even.</p> -<p>“These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other -punishment than what resulted from private revenge, and too often -composition was made for the most horrible murders. There -was a <i>gwerth</i>, or price of blood, from the slaughter of a -king, to the cutting off one of his subject’s little -fingers.”—<i>Williams’s Caernarvon</i>.</p> -<h3>PENMORFA,</h3> -<p>the Head of the Marsh, is a wood-clad village, romantically -situated in a nook, between some high rocks at the end of a tract -of meadows, on the western bank of Traeth Mawr.</p> -<p>The church contains a monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, -a valiant commander in the army, and a staunch supporter of -Charles I. Being tried with the Earl of Holland, Lords -Loughborough, Goring, and other <a name="page161"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 161</span>noble supporters of the royal cause, -after the death of the king, he exhibited a spirit coinciding -with his former noble daring; and, on being condemned to lose his -head, he bowed to the court, thanking them for the honour they -intended him. On being asked by a member what he meant, in -his usual blunt manner he replied, “I think it a great -honour for a poor gentleman of Wales to lose his head with such -noble lords:—by G—, I was afraid you would have -hanged me.”</p> -<p>Great intercession being made for the other noble personages, -and no one applying or interesting themselves on behalf of Sir -John, Cromwell, as related by some authorities, and Hutchinson -and Ireton, as stated by others, interfered for the worthy -knight, whose life was spared: after a few months’ -confinement he was allowed to retire to Clenenney, where he -died.</p> -<p>Mr. Williams, rector of Llanberis, from whose work, recently -published, on the history, antiquities, &c. of -Caernarvonshire, I before quoted, says, in speaking of the -situation of Penmorfa, and the meadows lying between it and -Traeth Mawr, “they were formerly subject to the overflowing -of the higher tides, till an embankment was made by W. A. Madox, -Esq. a gentleman to whom this part of the country is greatly -indebted for numerous and great improvements, particularly for -the erection of an embankment, about a mile in length, in order -to reclaim some thousand acres of land, and which now forms a -safe and convenient road between the counties of Caernarvon and -Merioneth, across the estuary of Traeth Mawr; whereas, formerly, -many lives were lost in going over those dangerous sands. -Tremadoc, <a name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -162</span>a new town, which bears the name of its founder, is -about a mile distant from Penmorfa, and contains from eighty to a -hundred houses. Here is a handsome new church, a -market-place, a comfortable inn, and a great number of good -shops. Near the town are several good houses, built by the -same gentleman, particularly Tan-yr-Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.; -all of which, as well as every thing in or about this little -town, evidently prove the individual who planned and conducted -the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, and -superior judgment and ability. A market has been -established here, and the fairs, which used to be at Penmorfa on -the following days, March 6, May 14, August 20, September 25, and -November 12, have mostly deserted that place, and are held at -Tremadoc. Here is an excellent salmon fishery, a good shore -for bathing, and a safe harbour for vessels under 120 tons -burthen. It is greatly to be lamented; that the beneficial -improvements by the before-mentioned public-spirited gentleman, -W. A. Madox, Esq. and carried by him to such a state of -forwardness, should not be completed. In the year 1625, Sir -John Wynne, of Gwydir, conceived the great design of gaining this -immense track (Traeth Mawr), as well as the lesser one (Traeth -Bach), from the sea, by means of an embankment; and for that -purpose he implored the assistance of his illustrious countryman, -Sir Hugh Middleton, in a letter which has been preserved, and, -together with that gentleman’s reply, printed in Mr. -Pennant’s Tour. A bridge over Traeth Bach, and a new -line of road along the sea-coast to Barmouth, with a stage coach -or some other more regular mode of conveyance <a -name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>between -North and South Wales, particularly during the summer months, are -still left among the desiderata of this portion of the -principality.”</p> -<p>From Tremadoc, an excellent road of about five miles brought -us to the far-famed Pont Aber-Glaslyn, or the bridge of the -harbour of the Blue Lake; and not uncommonly styled the -Devil’s Bridge. This last appellation has very -frequently misled strangers, who, confounding it with the -well-known bridge at Havod, have been much disappointed, their -expectations being raised very high, from the general description -of that place. Of this, indeed, we found an instance on the -very spot. This bridge connects the two counties of -Merioneth and Caernarvon; being, from the parapet to the water, -forty feet. From the description of former tourists, it did -not answer our expectations; but the salmon-leap is an -interesting object from the bridge: the height is about fifteen -feet; and, though we observed very many attempt this surprising -feat of agility, not one succeeded. Some fishermen below -soon excited our curiosity, and salmon was here offered for sale -at three-pence per pound.</p> -<p>An intelligent man here offered himself as our guide to the -rich copper-mines, in the vicinity of Pont Aber-Glaslyn. -This miner, having worked both here and at the Parys Mountain, -confidently asserted, that one pound of this ore was now esteemed -equivalent to twice the quantity produced in Anglesea. Yet, -for a considerable time, little advantage was derived from the -concern, till a company obtained a lease of the mountain from Mr. -Lloyd, the proprietor: and having placed an intelligent agent in -a house near the mines, entered on the concern with that <a -name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>spirit -which merited success. Stupendous cliffs, by the road side, -literally rise eight hundred and sixty feet perpendicularly, and -hang in the most capricious forms over the torrent; which, -straggling amongst the recesses of stone, is hastening forward to -disembogue itself into the estuary of Traeth Mawr. The pass -is not more than seventy feet; after much rain it is entirely -inundated by the overflowings of the Glaslyn, which reflect, as -in a mirror, the blackness of the impending cliffs. On the -Caernarvonshire side are several lead mines; but they have not -proved sufficiently rich to reward the labour of working.</p> -<p>The situation of our inn at</p> -<h3>BEDDGELERT</h3> -<p>is very romantic, and would form an interesting drawing, by -taking in a small bridge of two arches below the house. It -is completely encircled by lofty mountains, which may be -considered as subject to the “cloud-capt -Snowdon.”</p> -<p>Situate at the junction of three vales, its beautiful meadows -form a fine contrast to the surrounding rugged scenery. The -church is small, but lofty; it is supposed to be erected on the -site of an ancient priory of Augustine monks, dedicated to St. -Mary, and founded, according to the account of Mr. Rymer, in his -Fœdera, by Llewelyn ap Iorweth, in gratitude for the -preservation of his son, and as an atonement for the rash effects -of his intemperate rage, so pathetically described in the -following poem: but both the Mr. Williamses, who have written on -Caernarvonshire, support the opinion of its earlier -establishment, looking upon it as the most ancient foundation in -<a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>the -country except Bardsey. Its revenues, according to the -Reverend P. B. Williams’s account, must have been -considerable; which he likewise accounts for as necessary, from -its being on the great road from England and South Wales to North -Wales, and from Ireland to England. In order to enable the -prior to keep up his usual hospitality, Edward the First, after -it had greatly suffered by fire in 1283, most generously, at his -own expense, repaired all the damages; and Bishop Anian, about -the year 1286, to obtain for it benefactions, remitted to all -such benefactors, who truly repented of their sins, forty days of -any penance inflicted on them.</p> -<h4>BEDDGELERT,<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OR,</span><br /> -THE GREYHOUND’S GRAVE.</h4> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY WILLIAM -SPENCER.</span></p> -<blockquote><p>The spearmen heard the bugle sound,<br /> - And cheerly smiled the morn;<br /> -And many a brach, and many a hound,<br /> - Attend Llewelyn’s horn.</p> -<p>And still he blew a louder blast,<br /> - And gave a louder cheer;<br /> -“Come, Gelert, why art thou the last<br /> - Llewelyn’s horn to hear?</p> -<p>“Oh where does faithful Gelert roam?<br /> - The flower of all his race;<br /> -So true, so brave: a lamb at home;<br /> - A lion in the chase.”</p> -<p><a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -166</span>’Twas only at Llewelyn’s board<br /> - The faithful Gelert fed;<br /> -He watch’d, he serv’d, he cheer’d his lord,<br -/> - And centinel’d his bed.</p> -<p>In sooth, he was a peerless hound,<br /> - The gift of royal John: <a name="citation166"></a><a -href="#footnote166" class="citation">[166]</a><br /> -But now no Gelert could be found,<br /> - And all the chase rode on.</p> -<p>And, now, as over rocks and dells<br /> - The gallant chidings rise,<br /> -All Snowdon’s craggy chaos yells<br /> - With many mingled cries.</p> -<p>That day Llewelyn little loved<br /> - The chase of hart or hare,<br /> -And scant and small the booty proved,<br /> - For Gelert was not there.</p> -<p>Unpleased, Llewelyn homeward hied:<br /> - When near the royal seat,<br /> -His truant Gelert he espied,<br /> - Bounding his lord to greet.</p> -<p>But when he gain’d his castle door,<br /> - Aghast the chieftain stood:<br /> -The hound was smear’d with gouts of gore,<br /> - His lips and fangs ran blood!</p> -<p>Llewelyn gazed with wild surprise,<br /> - Unused such looks to meet;<br /> -His favourite check’d his joyful guise,<br /> - And crouch’d, and lick’d his feet.</p> -<p><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -167</span>Onward in haste Llewelyn past,<br /> - And on went Gelert too:<br /> -And still, where’er his eyes he cast,<br /> - Fresh blood-gouts shock’d his view!</p> -<p>O’erturn’d his infant’s bed he found,<br /> - The blood-stain’d covert rent:<br /> -And all around the walls and ground,<br /> - With recent blood besprent.</p> -<p>He call’d his child; no voice replied;<br /> - He search’d with terror wild;<br /> -Blood, blood, he found on every side,<br /> - But nowhere found the child!</p> -<p>“Hell-hound, by thee my child’s -devour’d!”<br /> - The frantic father cried:<br /> -And to the hilt the vengeful sword,<br /> - He plunged in Gelert’s side.</p> -<p>His suppliant, as to earth he fell,<br /> - No pity could impart;<br /> -But still his Gelert’s dying yell<br /> - Past heavy o’er his heart.</p> -<p>Aroused by Gelert’s dying yell,<br /> - Some slumberer waken’d nigh:<br /> -What words the parent’s joy can tell,<br /> - To hear his infant cry!</p> -<p>Conceal’d between a mingled heap,<br /> - His hurried search had miss’d;<br /> -All glowing from his rosy sleep,<br /> - His cherub boy he kiss’d!</p> -<p>Nor scratch had he, nor harm, nor dread,<br /> - But the same couch beneath<br /> -Lay a great wolf, all torn, and dead,<br /> - Tremendous still in death!</p> -<p><a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>Ah! -what was then Llewelyn’s pain!<br /> - For now the truth was clear;<br /> -The gallant hound the wolf had slain,<br /> - To save Llewelyn’s heir.</p> -<p>Vain, vain was all Llewelyn’s woe;<br /> - “Best of thy kind, adieu!<br /> -The frantic deed which laid thee low,<br /> - This heart shall ever rue!”</p> -<p>And now a gallant tomb they raise,<br /> - With costly sculpture deckt;<br /> -And marbles storied with his praise<br /> - Poor Gelert’s bones protect.</p> -<p>Here never could the spearman pass,<br /> - Or forester unmoved;<br /> -Here oft the tear-besprinkled grass<br /> - Llewelyn’s sorrow proved.</p> -<p>And here he hung his horn and spear,<br /> - And oft, as evening fell,<br /> -In fancy’s piercing sounds would hear<br /> - Poor Gelert’s dying yell!</p> -<p>And till great Snowdon’s rocks grow old,<br /> - And cease the storm to brave,<br /> -The consecrated spot shall hold<br /> - The name of Gelert’s grave.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Since the author’s first visit, much has been added to -the picturesque scenery of Beddgelert, through the liberal and -patriotic spirit of Thomas Jones of Bryntirion, Esq. the worthy -proprietor of this romantic vale. A most excellent inn has -been erected, and no expense spared in rendering the -accommodations for the tourist and the <a -name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 169</span>traveller -the most attractive, as well as the most comfortable. It is -worthy of remark, that this spot was selected by the monks as -favourable to the desponding gloom of popish superstition. -The parish church, which is situated within a few hundred yards -of this inn, was formerly a part of a priory of Augustine monks, -founded by Anion, Bishop of Bangor, in the thirteenth century; -and supposed by some to be the oldest religious house in -Wales. Part of the cloisters still remain. The -monastery was destroyed by fire during the reign of Edward the -First. The present appearance of the vale is, however, -calculated to produce sensations of a very different description, -and presents objects the most alluring to the lovers of mountain -scenery. The tourist, whether he be a poet, a philosopher, -or an antiquary, will here find abundant sources of recreation to -detain him for some days. Within the distance of an -hour’s walk from the inn, are situated</p> -<h3>THE VALE OF NANHWYNAN,</h3> -<p>beautifully diversified by thriving plantations and elegant -villas. In this vale stands Dinas Emrys, or the Castle of -Ambrosius, to which Vortigern is said to have fled for refuge, -after having called in the Saxons; by which he for some time -avoided the odium and persecution of his countrymen.</p> -<h3>THE PASS OF DRWSYCOED,</h3> -<p>commanding a most splendid view of the lakes of Nantlle, -including the floating island, mentioned by Camden, the sea being -also visible at a distance. Here King Edward is said to -have encamped his army in his last expedition <a -name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>into Wales, -when he completed the subjugation of the country.</p> -<p>Beddgelert is now a thoroughfare, with a good road from -Caernarvon to Dolgelly, Welsh Pool, Shrewsbury, Bishop’s -Castle, Ludlow, and Worcester; it is therefore a most convenient -station from whence to make excursions to some of the most -interesting scenery in North Wales, among the first of which is -the ascent of the mighty and once wood-covered Snowdon.</p> -<p>How often has the idea of this stupendous mountain filled my -heart with enthusiastic rapture! Every time I cast my eyes -on that solemn, that majestic vision, it is not without the most -powerful emotion; it excites that tender melancholy, which exalts -rather than depresses the mind! How delightful to bid adieu -to all the cares and occupations of the world, for the reflection -of those scenes of sublimity and grandeur, which form such a -contrast to the transientness of sublunary greatness! With -what anxiety have we watched the setting sun, loitering just -below the horizon, and illuminating the highest summit of Snowdon -with a golden tinge; and we still watch the passing clouds of -night, fearing lest the morning should prove unfavourable for our -Alpine excursion!</p> -<h3>SNOWDON.</h3> -<p>We engaged the miner <a name="citation170"></a><a -href="#footnote170" class="citation">[170]</a> as our conductor -over the mountain, who entertained us much with displaying, in <a -name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 171</span>strong -colours, the tricks and impositions of his brother guides. <a -name="citation171"></a><a href="#footnote171" -class="citation">[171]</a></p> -<p>At half-past twelve we started from our inn, determined to see -the sun rise from its highest summit. The night was now -very dark, and we could just discover that the top of Snowdon was -entirely enveloped in a thick impenetrable mist: this -unpropitious omen staggered our resolutions; and we for some time -hesitated respecting our farther progress; but our guide assuring -us that his comfortable cottage was not far distant, we again -plucked up resolution; and, quitting the high way about two miles -on the Caernarvon road, we turned to the right, through a boggy, -unpleasant land, and in danger of losing our shoes every step we -took. This soon brought us to the comfortable cot, the -filth and dirtiness of which can better be imagined than -described; a worm-eaten bed, two small stools, and table fixed to -the wall, composed the whole of his furniture; two fighting-cocks -were perched on a beam, which Thomas seemed to pride himself in -the possession of: the smoke of the fire ascended through a small -hole in the roof of this comfortable mansion, the door of which -did not appear proof against the “churlish chiding of the -winter blast.”</p> -<p>Such, indeed, was the situation of this Cambrian mountaineer: -and, though, in our own opinion, misery, poverty, and dirt -personified, seemed to be the real inhabitants of this cottage, -yet there was something prepossessing <a name="page172"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 172</span>in his character; for, frequently, -with the greatest vehemence imaginable, and in the true style of -an anchorite, he declared, that, “though he boasted not -riches, yet he boasted of independence; and though he possessed -not wealth, yet he possessed the home of happiness, an honest -breast.”</p> -<p>The morning appearing to wear a more favourable aspect, we -again sallied forth; the bogs, however, still rendered it -extremely unpleasant. But this inconvenience was only -temporary; we soon came to a part of the mountain entirely -composed of loose stones and fragments of rock, which affording -only a very treacherous footing, you are liable to perpetual -falls. The mountain now became much steeper, the path less -rocky, and our mountaineer, the higher we proceeded, more induced -to exhibit feats of his agility, by occasionally running down a -short precipice, and then, by a loud shout of vociferation, -shewing us the obedience of the sheep, who instantaneously -flocked around him at the sound of his voice: it is singular, the -caution implanted in this animal, by instinct, for the mutual -protection of each other; from the liberty they enjoy, they -seldom congregate in one flock, but are generally discovered -grazing in parties from six to a dozen, one of which is regularly -appointed centinel, to watch the motions of their inveterate -enemies (foxes and birds of prey), which infest this -mountain. A wider expanse of the hemisphere disclosed -itself, and every object below us gradually diminished as we -ascended. The freshness of the mountain whetted our -appetites; and our conductor, with very little persuasion, soon -influenced us to open our little basket of provisions. The -sun, the “rich-hair’d <a name="page173"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 173</span>youth of morn,” was just -peeping from his bed; and having refreshed ourselves, with eager -impatience, we again climbed the rugged precipice; for we had -still a considerable height to ascend. We now passed -several steep declivities by a narrow path not more than three -yards wide, with a dreadful perpendicular on each side, the sight -of which almost turned us giddy. As we were passing this -hazardous path, a thick mist enveloped us, and an impenetrable -abyss appeared on both sides; the effect, indeed, can scarcely be -conceived; our footing, to us, puisne mountaineers, seemed very -insecure; and a total destruction would have been the consequence -of one false step. The air grew intensely cold, and, by our -guide’s recommendation, we a second time produced our -pistol of rum, diluted with milk; but this cordial must be used -with caution, as a very small quantity of strong liquor affects -the head, owing to the rarefaction of the air. On our -reaching the summit, all our difficulties were forgotten, and our -imaginary complaints overborne with exclamations of wonder, -surprise, and admiration. The light, thin, misty cloud, -which had for some time enveloped us, as if by enchantment, -suddenly dispersed; the whole ocean appeared illuminated by a -fiery substance, and all the subject hills below us, for they -resembled mole-hills, were gradually tinged by the rich glow of -the sun; whose orb becoming at length distinctly visible, -displayed the whole island of Anglesea so distinctly, that we -descried, as in a map, its flat and uncultivated plains, bounded -by the rich and inexhaustible Parys mountains, in the vicinity of -Holyhead. The point on which we were standing did not -exceed a square of five yards, and we <a name="page174"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 174</span>sickened almost at the sight of the -steep precipices which environed us; round it is a small parapet, -formed by the customary tribute of all strangers, who visit this -summit, and to which we likewise contributed, by placing a large -stone on its top; this parapet, indeed, sheltered us from the -chilly cold, and protected us from the piercing wind, to which -this height must naturally be exposed.</p> -<p>We remained in this situation for a considerable time, and -endeavoured, without success, to enumerate the several lakes, -forests, woods, and counties, which were exposed to us in one -view; but lost and confounded with the innumerable objects worthy -of admiration, and regardless of the chilling cold, we took a -distinct survey of the Isle of Man, together with a faint -prospect of the Highlands in Ireland, which appeared just visibly -skirting the distant horizon; but another object soon engrossed -all our attention:</p> -<blockquote><p>“The wide, the unbounded prospect lay before -us;<br /> -But shadows, clouds, and darkness, rest upon it:”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>For we unexpectedly observed long billows of vapour tossing -about, half way down the mountain, totally excluding the country -below, and occasionally dispersing, and partially revealing, its -features; while above, the azure expanse of the heavens remained -unobscured by the thinnest mist. This, however, was of no -long continuance: a thick cloud presently wet us through; and the -point on which we were standing could alone be -distinguished. As there appeared little or no chance of the -clouds dispersing, we soon commenced our descent. -Respecting this Alpine excursion, suffice it to say, that <a -name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 175</span>though our -expectations were raised exceedingly high, it infinitely -surpassed all conception, and baffled all description; for no -colour of language can paint the grandeur of the rising sun, -observed from this eminence, or describe the lakes, woods, and -forests, which are extended before you; for description, though -it enumerates their names, yet it cannot draw the elegance of -outline, cannot give the effect of precipices, or delineate the -minute features, which reward the actual observer, at every new -choice of his position; and, by changing their colour and form in -his gradual ascent, till at last every object dwindles into -atoms: in short, this interesting excursion, which comprehends -every thing that is awful, grand, and sublime, producing the most -pleasing sensations, has left traces in the memory which the -imagination will ever hold dear.</p> -<p>The view from the summit of Snowdon is thus described by the -author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature.</p> -<blockquote><p>“After climbing over masses of crags and -rocks, we ascended the peak of Snowdon, the height of which is -3571 feet above the level of the Irish Sea. Arrived at its -summit, a scene presented itself, magnificent beyond the powers -of language! Indeed, language is indigent and impotent, -when it would presume to sketch scenes, on which the Great -Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight. Faint -are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator -Rosa! Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, Genius of -Thomson, Virgil, and Lucretius!</p> -<p>“From this point are seen more than five-and-twenty -lakes. Seated on one of the crags, it was long before the -<a name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 176</span>eye, -unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself -to scenes so admirable:—the whole appearing as if there had -been a war of the elements; and as if we were the only -inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the ruins of -the world. Rocks and mountains, which, when observed from -below, bear all the evidences of sublimity, when viewed from the -summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, as rugged, -and as elevated as themselves; the whole resembling the swellings -of an agitated ocean.</p> -<p>“The extent of this prospect appears almost -unlimited. The four kingdoms are seen at once: Wales, -England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest panorama the -empire can boast. The circle begins with the mountains of -Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of Ingleborough and Penygent, -in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire forefollow: -then are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a -portion of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth -succeeds; and drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of -the circle, we take in the regions, stretching from the triple -crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds-David, and -Llewelyn. Snowdon, rising in the centre, appears as if he -could touch the south with his right hand, and the north with his -left. ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, -‘Cæsar sat upon these crags, when he formed the -daring conception of governing the world!’</p> -<p>“From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the -bold geographical outline, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and -reposes for a while on the summit of the Rivel. After -observing the indented shores of Caernarvonshire, <a -name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>it travels -over a long line of ocean, till, in the extremity of the horizon, -the blue mountains of Wicklow terminate the perspective. -Those mountains gradually sink along the coast, till they are -lost to the eye; which, ranging along the expanse, at length, as -weary of the journey, reposes on the Island of Man, and the -distant mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space is -occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, -masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of -Anglesea, with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent -confusion. A scene like this commands our feelings to echo, -as it were, in unison to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill -of astonishment and the transport of admiration seem to contend -for the mastery; and nerves are touched that never thrilled -before. We seem as if our former existence were -annihilated; and as if a new epoch were commenced. Another -world opens upon us; and an unlimited orbit appears to display -itself, as a theatre for our ambition.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The first two miles of our descent we by no means found -difficult, but wishing to take a minute survey of the picturesque -Pass of Llanberris, we changed the route generally prescribed to -strangers, and descended a rugged and almost perpendicular path, -in opposition to the proposals of our guide, who strenuously -endeavoured to dissuade us from the attempt; alleging the -difficulty of the steep, and relating a melancholy story of a -gentleman, who many years back had broken his leg. This had -no effect: we determined to proceed; and the vale of Llanberris -amply rewarded us for the trouble.</p> -<p>Mr. Williams, of Llandegai, in his observations on the <a -name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>Snowdon -mountains (which, from his having been a resident on the spot, -may be considered as entitled to the greatest credit,) makes the -following remarks on the probable derivation of their names, and -the customs and manners of their inhabitants.</p> -<p>“It would be endless to point out the absurd conjectures -and misrepresentations of those who have of late years undertaken -to describe this country. Some give manifestly wrong -interpretations of the names of places, and others, either -ignorantly or maliciously, have as it were caricatured its -inhabitants. Travellers from England, often from want of -candour, and always from defect of necessary knowledge, impose -upon the world unfavourable as well as false accounts of their -fellow-subjects in Wales; yet the candour of the Welsh is such, -that they readily ascribe such misrepresentations to an ignorance -of their language, and a misconception of the honest, though -perhaps warm temper of those that speak it. And it may be, -travellers are too apt to abuse the Welsh, because they cannot or -will not speak English. <i>Their ignorance ought not to -incur disgust</i>: <i>their reluctance proceeds not from -stubbornness</i>, <i>but from diffidence</i>, <i>and the fear of -ridicule</i>.</p> -<h4>“NATIVES OF ERYRI.</h4> -<p>“The inhabitants of the British mountains are so humane -and hospitable, that a stranger may travel amongst them without -incurring any expense for diet or lodging. Their fare an -Englishman may call coarse; however, they commonly in farm-houses -have three sorts of bread, namely, wheat, barley, and oatmeal; -but the oatmeal <a name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -179</span>they chiefly use; this, with milk, butter, cheese, and -potatoes, is their chief summer food. They have also plenty -of excellent trout, which they eat in its season. And for -the winter they have dry salted beef, mutton, and smoked rock -venison, which they call <i>Côch ar Wyden</i>, i.e. <i>The -Red upon the Withe</i>, being hung by a withe, made of a willow -or hazel twig. They very seldom brew ale, except in some of -the principal farm-houses: having no corn of their own growing, -they think it a superfluous expense to throw away money for malt -and hops, when milk, or butter-milk mixed with water, quenches -the thirst as well.</p> -<p>“They are hardy and very active; but they have not the -perseverance and resolution which are necessary for laborious or -continued undertakings, being, from their infancy, accustomed -only to ramble over the hills after their cattle. In summer -they go barefoot, but seldom barelegged, as has been lately -asserted by a traveller. They are shrewd and crafty in -their bargains, and jocular in their conversation; very sober, -and great economists; though a late tourist has given them a -different character. Their greetings, when they meet any -one of their acquaintance, may to some appear tedious and -disagreeable: their common mode of salutation is ‘How is -thy heart? how the good wife at home, the children, and the rest -of the family?’ and that often repeated. When they -meet at a public-house, they will drink each other’s -health, or the health of him to whom the mug goes at every -round. They are remarkably honest.</p> -<p>“Their courtships, marriages, &c. differ in nothing -<a name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 180</span>from -what is practised on these occasions among the lowlanders or -other Welsh people; but as there are some distinct and local -customs in use in North Wales, not adopted in other parts of -Great Britain, I shall, by way of novelty, relate a few of -them:—When Cupid lets fly his shaft at a youthful heart, -the wounded swain seeks for an opportunity to have a private -conversation with the object of his passion, which is usually -obtained at a fair, or at some other public meeting; where he, if -bold enough, accosts her, and treats her with wine and -cakes. But he that is too bashful will employ a friend to -break the ice for him, and disclose the sentiments of his heart: -the fair one, however, disdains proxies of this kind, and he that -is bold, forward, and facetious, has a greater chance of -prevailing, especially if he has courage enough to steal a few -kisses: she will then probably engage to accept of his nocturnal -visit the next Saturday night. When the happy hour arrives, -neither the darkness of the night, the badness of the weather, -nor the distance of the place, will discourage him, so as to -abandon his engagement. When he reaches the spot, he -conceals himself in some out-building, till the family go to -rest. His fair friend alone knows of and awaits his -coming. After admittance into the house a little chat takes -place at the fire-side, and then, if every thing is friendly, -they agree to throw themselves on a bed, if there is an empty one -in the house; when Strephon takes off his shoes and coat, and -Phillis only her shoes; and covering themselves with a blanket or -two, they chat there till the morning dawn, and then the lover -steals away as privately as he came. <a -name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 181</span>And this is -the bundling or <i>courting in bed</i>, <a -name="citation181"></a><a href="#footnote181" -class="citation">[181]</a> for which the Welsh are so much -bantered by strangers.</p> -<p>“This courtship often lasts for years, ere the swain can -prevail upon his mistress to accept of his hand. Now and -then a pregnancy precedes marriage, but very seldom, or never, -before a mutual promise of entering into the marriage state is -made. When a matrimonial contract is thus entered into, the -parents and friends of each party are apprised of it, and an -invitation to the wedding takes place; where, at the appointed -wedding-day, every guest that dines drops his shilling, besides -payment for what he drinks. The company very often amounts -to two or three hundred, and sometimes more. This donation -is intended to assist the young couple to buy bed-clothes, and -other articles necessary to begin the world. Nor does the -friendly bounty stop here: when the woman is brought to bed, the -neighbours meet at the christening, out of free good-will, -without invitation, where they drop their money; usually a -shilling to the woman in the <a name="page182"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 182</span>straw, sixpence to the midwife, and -sixpence to the cook; more or less, according to the ability and -generosity of the giver.</p> -<h4>“MODE OF BURYING.</h4> -<p>“When the parish bell announces the death of a person, -it is immediately inquired upon what day the funeral is to be; -and on the night preceding that day all the neighbours assemble -at the house where the corpse is, which they call Ty Corph, i.e. -‘the corpse’s house.’ The coffin, with -the remains of the deceased, is then placed on the stools, in an -open part of the house, covered with black cloth, or, if the -deceased was unmarried, with a clean white sheet, with three -candles burning on it. Every person on entering the house -falls devoutly on his knees before the corpse, and repeats to -himself the Lord’s Prayer, or any other prayer that he -chooses. Afterwards, if he is a smoker, a pipe and tobacco -are offered to him. This meeting is called Gwylnos, and in -some places Pydreua. The first word means Vigil; the other -is, no doubt, a corrupt word from Paderau, or Padereuau, that is, -Paters, or Paternosters. When the assembly is full, the -parish clerk reads the common service appointed for the burial of -the dead: at the conclusion of which psalms, hymns, and other -godly songs are sung; and since Methodism is become so universal, -some one stands up and delivers an oration on the melancholy -subject, and then the company drop away by degrees. On the -following day the interment takes place, between two and four -o’clock in the afternoon, when all the neighbours assemble -again. It is not uncommon <a name="page183"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 183</span>to see on such occasions an assembly -of three or four hundred people, or even more. These -persons are all treated with warm spiced ale, cakes, pipes, and -tobacco; and a dinner is given to all those that come from far: I -mean, that such an entertainment is given at the funerals of -respectable farmers. <a name="citation183a"></a><a -href="#footnote183a" class="citation">[183a]</a> They then -proceed to the church; and at the end of that part of the burial -service, which is usually read in the church, before the corpse -is taken from the church, every one of the congregation presents -the officiating minister with a piece of money; the -deceased’s next relations usually drop a shilling each, -others sixpence, and the poorer sort a penny a-piece, laying it -on the altar. This is called offering, and the sum amounts -sometimes to eight, ten, or more pounds at a burial. The -parish clerk has also his offering at the grave, which amounts -commonly to about one-fourth of what the clergyman -received. After the burial is over the company retire to -the public-house, where every one spends his sixpence for ale; <a -name="citation183b"></a><a href="#footnote183b" -class="citation">[183b]</a> then all ceremonies are -over.”</p> -<p>Mr. W. then proceeds to explain the good and ill resulting -from the prevalence of Methodism, and those fanatics termed -Ranters, &c. and states, that “the mountain people -preserve themselves, in a great measure, a distinct race from the -lowlanders: they but very seldom <a name="page184"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 184</span>come down to the lowlands for wives; -nor will the lowlander often climb up the craggy steeps, and -bring down a mountain spouse to his cot. Their occupations -are different, and it requires that their mates should be -qualified for such different modes of living.</p> -<p>“I will not scruple to affirm, that these people have no -strange blood in their veins,—that they are the true -offspring of the ancient Britons: they, and their ancestors, from -time immemorial, have inhabited the same districts, and, in one -degree or other, they are all relations.”</p> -<p>The vale of Llanberris is bounded by the steep precipices of -Snowdon, and two large lakes, communicating by a river. It -was formerly a large forest, but the woods are now entirely cut -down. We here dismissed our Cambrian mountaineer, and -easily found our way to Dolbadern (pronounced Dolbathern) Castle, -situated between the two lakes, and now reduced to one circular -tower, thirty feet in diameter, with the foundations of the -exterior buildings completely in ruins. In this Owen -Gôch, brother to Llewellin, last prince, was confined in -prison. This tower appears to have been the keep or -citadel, about ninety feet in height, with a vaulted -dungeon. At the extremity of the lower lake are the remains -of a British fortification, called Caer cwm y Glô; and -about half a mile from the castle, to the south, at the -termination of a deep glen, is a waterfall, called Caunant Mawr; -it rushes over a ledge of rocks upwards of twenty yards in -height, falls some distance in an uninterrupted sheet, and then -dashes with a tremendous roar through the impending fragments of -the rock, till it reaches the more <a name="page185"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 185</span>quiet level of the vale. -Returning to the lakes, you have a fine view of the ruins, with -the promontory on which they are situated; and that with greatly -heightened effect, if favoured by their reflection on the glassy -surface of the waters, to which you add the rocky heights on each -side; Llanberris church relieving the mountain scenery, and the -roughest and most rugged cliffs of Snowdon in the back-ground -topping the whole, which give together a grand and pleasing -coup-d’œil.</p> -<p>In this vicinity are large slate quarries, the property of -Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq. and a rich vein of copper ore. -These afford employ to great numbers of industrious poor: to the -men, in obtaining the ore and slates, and the women and children -in breaking, separating, and preparing the different sorts for -exportation, or for undergoing farther preparatory processes to -fit them for smelting. From hence a rugged horse-path -brought us to the Caernarvon turnpike-road, about six miles -distant; the high towers of the castle, the very crown and -paragon of the landscape, at last pointed out the situation -of</p> -<h3>CAERNARVON;</h3> -<p>and having crossed a handsome modern stone bridge thrown over -the river Seiont, and built by “Harry Parry, the modern -Inigo, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1791,” we soon -entered this ancient town, very much fatigued from our long -excursion.</p> -<p>The town of Caernarvon, beautifully situated and regularly -built, is in the form of a square, enclosed on three <a -name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 186</span>sides with -thick stone walls; and on the south side defended by the -castle.</p> -<p>The towers are extremely elegant; but not being entwined with -ivy, do not wear that picturesque appearance which castles -generally possess. Over the principal entrance, which leads -into an oblong court, is seated, beneath a great tower, the -statue of the founder, holding in his left hand a dagger: this -gateway was originally fortified with four portcullises. At -the west end the eagle tower, remarkably light and beautiful, in -a polygon form; three small hexagon turrets rising from the -middle, with eagles placed on their battlements; from thence it -derives its name. In a little dark room <a -name="citation186"></a><a href="#footnote186" -class="citation">[186]</a> in this tower, measuring eleven feet -by seven, was born King Edward II. April 25, 1284. The -thickness of the wall is about ten feet. To the top of the -tower we reckoned one hundred and fifty-eight steps; from whence -an extensive view of the adjacent country is seen to great -advantage. On the south are three octagonal towers, with -small turrets, with similar ones on the north. All these -towers communicate with each other by a gallery, both on the -ground, middle, and upper floor, formed within the immense -thickness of the walls, in which are cut narrow slips, at -convenient distances, for the discharge of arrows.</p> -<p><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>This -building, founded on a rock, is the work of King Edward I. the -conqueror of the principality; the form of it is a long irregular -square, enclosing an area of about two acres and a half. -From the information of the Sebright manuscript, Mr. Pennant -says, that, by the united efforts of the peasants, it was erected -within the space of one year.</p> -<p>Having spent near three hours in surveying one of the noblest -castles in Wales, we walked round the environs of the town. -The terrace <a name="citation187"></a><a href="#footnote187" -class="citation">[187]</a> round the castle wall, when in -existence, was exceedingly pleasing, being in front of the Menai, -which is here upwards of a mile in breadth, forming a safe -harbour, and is generally crowded with vessels, exhibiting a -picture of national industry; whilst near it a commodious quay -presents an ever-bustling scene, from whence a considerable -quantity of slate, and likewise copper, from the Llanberris mine, -is shipped for different parts of the kingdom.</p> -<p>Caernarvon may certainly be considered as one of the -handsomest and largest towns in North Wales; and under the -patronage of the Marquess of Anglesea promises to become still -more populous and extensive.</p> -<p>In Bangor-street is the Anglesea Arms hotel, a large <a -name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>and most -respectable inn; where, as well as the Goat, the charges are -moderate and the accommodations excellent.</p> -<p>Caernarvon is only a township and chapelry to -Llanbeblic. Its market is on a Saturday, which is well -supplied and reasonable; and with the spirited improvements made -to the town and harbour, has been the means of greatly increasing -its population: according to the late returns it contains 1008 -houses, and 6000 inhabitants. The church, or rather chapel, -has been rebuilt by subscription. Service is performed here -in English, and at the mother church at Llanbeblic <a -name="citation188"></a><a href="#footnote188" -class="citation">[188]</a> in Welsh.</p> -<p>The port, although the Aber sand-banks, forming a dangerous -bar, must ever be a great drawback upon it, has not only been -wonderfully improved, but is in that progressive state of -improvement by the modern mode of throwing out piers, that -vessels can now, of considerable tonnage, lie alongside the quay, -and discharge or take in their cargoes in perfect safety; this -bids fair, as may be seen by the rapid increase of its population -and <a name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -189</span>tonnage, to make it a place of trade and considerable -resort: yet still it only ranks as a creek, and its custom-house -is made dependent on that of the haven of Beaumaris, to the -comptroller of which its officer is obliged to report: this must -be a considerable hindrance to its trade, particularly in matters -out of the customary routine. The county hall, which is -near the castle, is a low building, but sufficiently commodious -within to hold with convenience the great sessions. -Caernarvon possessed such great favour with Edward the First, as -to have the first royal charter granted in Wales given to -it. It is by that constituted a free borough. It has -one alderman, one deputy mayor, two bailiffs, a town-clerk, two -serjeants at mace, and a mayor; who, for the time, is governor of -the castle, and is allowed 200<i>l.</i> per annum to keep it in -repair. It jointly with Conway, Nevin, Criccaeth, and -Pwllheli, sends a member to parliament, for the return of whom -every inhabitant, resident or non-resident, who has been admitted -to the freedom of the place, possesses a vote.</p> -<p>It is allowed to have a prison for petty offences independent -of the sheriff. Its burgesses likewise were exempt -throughout the kingdom from tollage, lastage, passage, murage, -pontage, and all other impositions of whatever kind, with other -privileges, too numerous to insert.</p> -<p>The county prison is likewise near the castle. It was -erected in the year 1794. The new market-house, containing -the butchers’ shambles, &c. is a well-contrived and -convenient building, affording good storage for corn and other -articles left unsold.</p> -<p><a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>The -site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about half a -mile south of the present one, will be found worthy the attention -of the traveller; it was the only Roman station of note in this -part of Cambria, on which a long chain of minor forts and posts -were dependent. It is even maintained, and that by -respectable authorities, that it was not only the residence but -burial-place of Constantius, father of Constantine the Great; but -most probably this arises from confusing Helena, the daughter of -Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, who was born at Segontium, and -married to Maximus, first cousin of Constantine, with Helena, his -mother, whom these authorities assert to have been the daughter -of a British king. A chapel, said to have been founded by -Helen, and a well which bears her name, are amongst the ruins -still pointed out.</p> -<p>Since the numerous late improvements have been going forward -at and near Caernarvon, new and interesting lights have been -thrown on the ruins in its vicinity, which will form a rich treat -to the antiquary.</p> -<p>Near the banks of the Seint, from which Segontium took its -name, and which runs from the lower lake of Llanberris, are the -remains of a fort, which appears to have been calculated to cover -a landing-place from the river at the time of high water: it is -of an oblong shape, and includes an area of about an acre; one of -the walls which is now standing is about seventy-four yards, and -the other sixty-four yards long, in height from ten to twelve -feet, and nearly six feet in thickness. The peculiar plan -of the Roman masonry is here particularly discernible, exhibiting -alternate layers, the one regular, the <a -name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>other -zig-zag; on these their fluid mortar was poured, which insinuated -itself into all the interstices, and set so strong as to form the -whole into one solid mass; retaining its texture even to the -present day, to such a degree, that the bricks and stone in the -Roman walls yield as easy as the cement.</p> -<p>English history has spoken so fully on this place, as -connected with Edward the First, on the title, which he, from his -son being born in this castle, so artfully claimed for him, and -the future heirs apparent to the British throne, as affording to -the Welsh a prince of their own, agreeable to their wishes, and -the quiet annexation of the principality to his dominions, which -Edward by this means obtained, that it appears superfluous to -enlarge upon it in this work.</p> -<p>Several excursions may be made from Caernarvon, with great -satisfaction to the tourist; the principal of which is a visit -to</p> -<h3>PLAS-NEWYDD,</h3> -<p>the elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, situated in the -Isle of Anglesea, and distant about six miles from -Caernarvon. If the wind and tide prove favourable, the -picturesque scenery of the Menai will be viewed to great -advantage by hiring a boat at the quay. <a -name="citation191"></a><a href="#footnote191" -class="citation">[191]</a> But if this most advisable plan -should not be approved of, the walk to the Moel-y-don ferry, -about five miles on the Bangor road, will prove highly -gratifying. The Menai, whose banks are studded with -gentlemen’s seats, appearing <a name="page192"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 192</span>scarcely visible between the rich -foliage of the oak, which luxuriates to the water’s brink, -is filled with vessels, whose shining sails, fluttering in the -wind, attract and delight the observing eye; whilst the voice of -the sailors, exchanging some salute with the passing vessel, is -gently wafted on the breeze.</p> -<p>Crossing the ferry, we soon reached the ancient residence of -the arch-druid of Britain, where was formerly stationed the most -celebrated of the ancient British academies: from this -circumstance many places in this island still retain their -original appellation, as Myfyrim, the place of studies: Caer -Idris, the city of astronomy; Cerrig Boudin, the -astronomer’s circle. The shore to the right soon -brought us to the plantations of Plâs-Newydd, consisting -chiefly of the most venerable oaks, and noblest ash in this part -of the country:</p> -<blockquote><p>—“Superior to the pow’r<br /> - Of all the warring winds of heaven they rise;<br /> -And from the stormy promontory tower,<br /> - And toss their giant arms amid the skies;<br /> -While each assailing blast increasing strength -supplies.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Beattie’s -Minstrel</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Beneath their “broad brown branches” we discovered -several cromlechs, the monuments of Druidical superstition; -several stones of enormous size support two others placed -horizontally over them. <a name="citation192"></a><a -href="#footnote192" class="citation">[192]</a> For what -purpose <a name="page193"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -193</span>these ancient relics were originally erected, it is not -for us puisne antiquarians to discuss; and with eager impatience -we hurried to visit the noble mansion, which has not yet received -the finishing stroke of the architect; sufficient, however, is -accomplished to form a conjecture of its intended splendour and -magnificence. The whole is built, stables included, in a -Gothic castellated form, of a dark slate-coloured stone: on -entering the vestibule, we, for a short time, imagined ourselves -in the chapel, a mistake, though soon discovered, to which every -visitor is liable; the ceiling having Gothic arches, with a -gallery suitable to it, and several niches cut in the side walls: -we were next conducted through a long suite of apartments, the -design of them all equally convenient and elegant. The -landscape from the Gothic windows is both beautiful and sublime: -a noble plantation of trees, the growth of ages; the winding -strait of the Menai, gay with vessels passing and repassing: and, -beyond this tranquil scene, the long range of the Snowdon -mountains shooting into the clouds, the various hues of whose -features appear as beautiful as their magnitude is sublime. -The house is protected from the encroachments of the sea by a -strong parapet embattled wall; in fine, this magnificent seat of -the gallant Marquis seems to possess many conveniences peculiar -to its situation: the warm and cold baths, constantly filled by -the Menai, are sequestered and commodious, and every part of the -house is abundantly supplied with water.</p> -<p><a name="page194"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 194</span>Since -the last edition of this work was published, this splendid -residence has been finished in a style corresponding to the -promises it held forth, and now ranks amongst the first in the -principality.</p> -<p>The park, though small, is well wooded, and laid out with -taste; and the woods extending along the bold cliffs of the -Menai, with the parapeted bastion wall, which supports the -terrace at the bottom of the lawn, cause this elegant edifice, -with its turrets and gilded vanes, surrounded by its venerable -groves, to be viewed to great advantage from the water or -opposite shore. The front is composed of a centre nearly -semilunar, with two wings semioctagonal; these receive a bold and -happy finish from octagonal turrets rising from the basement of -each angle of the front and wings, several feet above the -embattled parapet, finishing in small spires surmounted by gilt -vanes.</p> -<p>Behind the house are two of the largest cromlechs; the upper -stone of one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and -four thick, supported by five upright ones; the other is close to -the first, and is only about five feet and a half square.</p> -<p>Not far from these is a carnedd, part of which is destroyed; -within was found a cell, about seven feet long and three wide, -covered with two flat stones. On the top of the stones were -two semicircular holes, for what purpose intended I leave to -others to determine; some conceive they were places of -confinement, and these holes served as stocks, in which to secure -the victims of the Druidical sacrifices; but let us rather hope -not; for as <a name="page195"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -195</span>the learned of those days here for a period found a -shelter, and as these woods</p> -<blockquote><p>“Were tenanted by bards, who nightly -thence,<br /> -Rob’d in their flowery vests of innocent white,<br /> -Issued with harps, that glitter to the moon,<br /> -Hymning immortal strains:”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Mason’s -Caractacus</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>we may as reasonably conceive that learning, poetry, music, -and religion, would soothe and soften the angry passions of the -soul, as that they would rouse to the horrid immolation of human -sacrifices.</p> -<p>Being unavoidably prevented at this time from visiting the -celebrated Parys Mountain, the property of the Marquis of -Anglesea and Colonel Hughes, we again returned to the hotel at -Caernarvon; purposing to stay the following day (Sunday), with -the intention of making a strict enquiry into the religious sect, -settled here, and in many parts of Wales, called Jumpers. <a -name="citation195"></a><a href="#footnote195" -class="citation">[195]</a></p> -<p>The account we had received from our landlord, we imagined, -was exaggerated; and this more strongly induced us to visit the -chapel, that we might be enabled, in future, to contradict this -ridiculous report.</p> -<p><a name="page196"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 196</span>At -six in the evening the congregation assembled; and, on our -entrance into the chapel, we observed, on the north side, from a -sort of stage or pulpit, erected on the occasion, a man, in -appearance a common day-labourer, holding forth to an ignorant -and deluded multitude. Our entrance at first seemed to -excite a general dissatisfaction; and our near neighbours, as if -conscious of their eccentricities, muttered bitter complaints -against the admittance of strangers. The chapel, which was -not divided into pews, and even destitute of seats, contained -near a hundred people: half way round was erected a -gallery. The preacher continued raving, and, indeed, -foaming at the mouth, in a manner too shocking to -relate:—he allowed himself no time to breathe, but, -seemingly intoxicated, uttered the most dismal howls and groans -imaginable, which were answered by the congregation, so loud as -occasionally to drown even the voice of the preacher. At -last, being nearly exhausted by continual vociferation, and -fainting from exertion, he sunk down in the pulpit. The -meeting, however, did not disperse: a psalm was immediately sung -by a man, who, we imagined, officiated as clerk, accompanied by -the whole congregation. The psalm had not continued long -before we observed part of the assembly, to our great surprise, -jumping in small parties of three, four, and sometimes five in a -set, lifting up their hands, beating their breasts, and making -the most horrid gesticulations. Each individual separately -jumped, regularly succeeding one another, while the rest -generally assisted the jumper by the help of their hands. -The women always appeared more vehement than the men, and -infinitely surpassed them in <a name="page197"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 197</span>numbers: seeming to endeavour to -excel each other in jumping, screaming, and howling. We -observed, indeed, that many of them lost their shoes, hats, and -bonnets, with the utmost indifference, and never condescended to -search after them; in this condition, it is not unusual to meet -them jumping to their homes. Their meetings are twice a -week, Wednesdays and Sundays. Having accidentally met with -a gentleman, at the hotel, a native of Siberia, we invited him to -our party; and, induced by curiosity, he readily accompanied us -to the chapel. On the commencement of the jumping, he -entreated us to quit the congregation, exclaiming “Good -God! I for a moment forgot I was in a Christian -country. The dance of the Siberians, in the worship of the -Lama, with their shouts and gesticulations, is not more -horrid!” This observation so forcibly struck me, that -I could not avoid inserting it in my note-book.</p> -<p>With disgust we left the chapel, and were given to understand, -by our landlord, they celebrate a particular day every year, when -instances have been known of women dying by too great an -exertion; and fainting is frequently the consequence of their -excessive jumping.</p> -<p>This sect is by no means confined to the town of Caernarvon; -but in many villages, and several market towns, both in North and -South Wales, they have established regular chapels. -“They have (says a correspondent to the Gentleman’s -Magazine) <a name="citation197"></a><a href="#footnote197" -class="citation">[197]</a> periodical meetings in many of the -larger towns, to which they come from thirty to forty miles -round. At one held at Denbigh, about last <a -name="page198"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 198</span>April, -there were, I believe, upwards of four thousand people, from -different parts. At another, held at Bala, soon afterwards, -nearly double that number were supposed to be -present.” The last number appears rather to be -exaggerated, though the letter, being dated from Denbigh, should -be considered as authoritative.</p> -<p>Another correspondent to the Gentleman’s Magazine gives -the following information respecting the sect: “That they -are not a distinct sect, but Methodists, of the same persuasion -as the late Mr. Whitfield; for though there are several -congregations of the Wesleyan Methodists in this country, there -is no such custom amongst them. But jumping during -religious worship is no new thing amongst the other party, having -(by what I can learn) been practised by them for many years -past. I have seen some of their pamphlets in the Welsh -language, in which this custom is justified by the example of -David, who danced before the ark; and of the lame man, restored -by our blessed Saviour, at the gate of the temple, who leaped for -joy.” How far this gentleman’s account may be -accurate, I leave for others to decide: it is certainly to be -lamented, in a country where the Christian religion is preached -in a style of the greatest purity and simplicity, that these poor -ignorant deluded wretches should be led to a form of worship so -dissonant to the established church of England, by a poor -ignorant fellow, devoid of education and common sense.</p> -<p>The same road we had so much admired the preceding Saturday, -soon brought us to</p> -<h3><a name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -199</span>BANGOR,</h3> -<p>the oldest Episcopal see in Wales; being founded in 516.</p> -<p>The situation is deeply secluded, “far from the bustle -of a jarring world,” and must have accorded well with -monastic melancholy; for the Monks, emerging from their retired -cells, might here indulge in that luxurious gloominess, which the -prospect inspires, and which would soothe the asperities -inflicted upon them by the severe discipline of -superstition. The situation of Bangor appears more like a -scene of airy enchantment than reality; and the residences of the -Canons are endeared to the votaries of landscape by the prospect -they command. On the opposite shore, the town of Beaumaris -was seen straggling up the deep declivity, with its quay crowded -with vessels, and all appeared bustle and confusion; the -contrast, which the nearer prospect inspired, was too evident to -escape our notice, where the</p> -<blockquote><p>“Oak, whose boughs were moss’d with -age,<br /> -And high top bald with dry antiquity,”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>afforded a seat for the contemplation of the wide expanse of -the ocean, which is seen beyond the little island of Puffin, or -Priestholm; so called from the quantity of birds of that species, -which resort here in the summer months.</p> -<p>The cathedral has been built at different times, but no part -very ancient; the church was burnt down by Owen Glendwr, in the -reign of King Henry IV.; the choir was afterwards built by Bishop -Henry Dene, (or Deane), <a name="page200"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 200</span>between the years 1496 and 1500; the -tower and nave by Bishop Skevington, in 1532. The whole is -Gothic architecture, and the interior of the cathedral has, -within the last six years, been altered, and now presents a most -imposing effect. The choir, which formerly was only -fifty-two feet in length, has been extended into the nave, and is -in length 110 feet from the east window; the remaining part of -the nave has been neatly fitted up with free pews, for the Welsh -congregation, and will accommodate about 700 persons. The -choir will contain about 600 persons. The late improvements -were done by a public subscription, which amounted to nearly -4000<i>l.</i> and the money has been expended in the most -beneficial and tasteful manner, under the superintendance of the -Rev. J. H. Cotton, Precentor and Senior Vicar, by whose -praise-worthy exertions, the money was collected in different -parts of the United Kingdom. There are several bishops <a -name="citation200"></a><a href="#footnote200" -class="citation">[200]</a> buried in the choir. I could -dwell with pleasure on the picturesque beauties of this little -episcopal see; but a repetition of the same epithets, grand, -beautiful, sublime, fine, with a long catalogue, which must -necessarily occur, would appear tautologous on paper, though -their archetypes in nature would assume new colours at every -change of position of the beholder.</p> -<p>This bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities -<a name="page201"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 201</span>to -Anian, bishop of the diocese, in the reign of Edward the First; -who, being in high favour with that monarch, and having had the -honour of christening the young prince, born at Caernarvon, -afterwards Edward the Second, had, as a compensation for the -temporalities confiscated in the reign of King Henry the Third, -various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the -principality allotted to the see.</p> -<p>Mr. Evans, in his valuable work, the Topography of North -Wales, has clearly refuted the improbable charge made against -Bishop Bulkely, of having sold the cathedral bells; and, on the -contrary, proves from documents, that the cathedral was indebted -to him for considerable repairs, and that likewise by his will he -was a benefactor to it; this falsehood, which originated with -Godwin, in his Treatise, entitled “De Presulibus,” as -a piece of scandal against the church, met with but too ready a -belief from former tourists, whose false records Mr. Evans -deserves great credit for refuting.</p> -<p>Bangor is governed by the Bishop, whose steward holds the -courts. From being a quiet, retired place, it has now -become a scene of commercial bustle and activity, and is rapidly -rising into an important town. The opening of Lord -Penrhyn’s slate quarries, and the great increase of -travelling through it since the union with Ireland, have been the -great causes of its increased and growing prosperity. From -the convenience for sea-bathing, the excellent new roads which -branch from it in every direction, the beauties of scenery which -surround it on every side, its proximity to many of the finest -objects which Wales can boast of, and the great interest which is -excited <a name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -202</span>by the suspended bridge over the Menai Strait, it has -become a place of fashionable resort; and during the summer -exhibits a scene of gaiety and cheerfulness, that forms a -striking contrast to its ancient monastic gloom. The -tourist will find this a fit spot for his head quarters, as he -can branch out in various directions, and each affords him ample -scope for his sketch-book or his contemplation.</p> -<p>Public baths are much wanted here; and it is to be hoped that -the spirit of improvement, which has lately manifested itself in -this neighbourhood, will not rest till these are -accomplished.</p> -<p>The castle is said to have been built by Hugh, Earl of -Chester, in the reign of William the Second; it stood on a steep -hill, on the south side of Bangor, called Castle Bank, but there -is not at this time a vestige remaining.</p> -<p>A pleasant walk leads to the Bangor Ferry Inn, delightfully -situated, overlooking the Straits of</p> -<h3>MENAI.</h3> -<p>This Strait, which separates Anglesea from the main land, -although bearing only the appearance of a river, is an arm of the -sea, and most dangerous in its navigation at particular periods -of the tide, and in boisterous weather: during the flood, from -the flush of water at each extremity, it has a double current, -the clash of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is highly rash and -dangerous to encounter. In the space of fifteen miles there -are six established ferries: the first of which, to the south, is -Abermenai, the next near Caernarvon, and three miles north from -the first is Tal y foel; four miles further, <a -name="page203"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 203</span>Moel y don; -three miles beyond which is the principal one, called -Porthaethwy, but more generally known as Bangor Ferry; it is the -narrowest part of the Strait, and is only about half a mile wide; -this is the one over which the mails and passengers pass on their -route to and from Holyhead, and near which is the bridge, of -which a particular description and plan is for the first time -given; a mile further north is the fifth, Garth Ferry; and the -sixth, and widest ferry at high water, is between the village of -Aber and Beaumaris.</p> -<p>There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once -connected with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are -discernible near Porthaeth-hwy; where a dangerous line of rocks -nearly cross the channel, and cause such eddies at the first -flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of the Menai -seem here to struggle for superiority. This isthmus once -destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by -the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and -enlarge the opening; as it appears by history, that both Roman -and British cavalry, at low water, during neap tides, forded or -swam over the Strait, and covered the landing of the infantry -from flat-bottomed boats.</p> -<p>The violent rush of water, and consequent inconvenience, -delay, and danger, when the wind and tide are unfavourable to the -passage over Bangor Ferry, in the present state of constant and -rapid communication with Ireland, gave rise to the idea of -forming a bridge over the Menai. Various estimates and -plans were submitted to the public consideration by our most -celebrated engineers, and men of science; when, after numerous -delays, <a name="page204"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -204</span>Mr. Telford’s design for one on the suspension -principle was adopted, and money granted by Parliament for -carrying it into effect. The first stone of this -magnificent structure was laid on the 10th of August, 1819, -without any ceremony, by the resident engineer, Mr. Provis, and -the contractors for the masonry.</p> -<p>“When on entering the Straits,” <a -name="citation204"></a><a href="#footnote204" -class="citation">[204]</a> says a recent author, “the -bridge is first seen, suspended as it were in mid air, and -confining the view of the fertile and richly-wooded shores, it -seems more like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shows -little of the strength and solidity which it really -possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still -retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size -and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw -that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under -it,—that a coach going over appeared not larger than a -child’s toy, and that foot-passengers upon it looked like -pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by contrast fully -apparent.” The whole surface of the bridge is in -length 1000 feet, of which the part immediately dependent upon -the chains is 590 feet, the remaining distance being supported by -seven arches, four on one side and three on the other, which fill -up the distance from the main piers to the shore. These -main piers rise above the level of the road 50 feet, and through -them two archways, each 12 feet wide, admit a passage. Over -the top of these piers, four rows of chains, the extremities of -which are firmly secured in the rocks at each end of the bridge, -are thrown; <a name="page205"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -205</span>two of them nearly in the centre, about four feet -apart, and one at each side. The floor of the road is -formed of logs of wood, well covered with pitch, and then strewn -over with granite broken very small, forming, by its adhesion to -the pitch, a solid body, impervious to the wet. A light -lattice work of wrought iron to the height of about six feet, -prevents the possibility of accidents by falling over, and allows -a clear view of the scenery on both sides, which can be seen to -great advantage from this height. Having expressed our -admiration of the skill evident in the construction, at once so -simple and so useful, and having satisfied our curiosity on the -top, we descended by a precipitous path to the level of the -water, and gazed upwards with wonder, at the immense flat surface -above us, and its connecting gigantic arches. The road is -100 feet above high water, and the arches spring at the height of -60 feet from abutments of solid masonry, with a span of 52 -feet. These abutments taper gradually from their base to -where the arch commences, and immense masses as they are, show no -appearance of heaviness; indeed, taking the whole of the Menai -Bridge together, a more perfect union of beauty with utility -cannot be conceived. It has been erected to bear a weight -upon the chains of 2000 tons; the whole weight at present imposed -is only 500, leaving an available strength of 1,500 tons; so that -there is an easy remedy for a complaint which has been made of -its too great vibration in a gale of wind, by laying additional -weight upon it. The granite, of which the piers and arches -are built, is a species of marble, admitting a very high polish; -of this the peasantry in the neighbourhood avail themselves, <a -name="page206"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 206</span>and every -one has some specimen of polished marble ready to offer the -tourist. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and -elegance, in this grand work of art, that it harmonises and -accords perfectly with the natural scenery around, and though -itself an object of admiration, still, in connection, it -heightens the effect of the general view.</p> -<h3>MONA, OR ANGLESEA, <a name="citation206"></a><a -href="#footnote206" class="citation">[206]</a></h3> -<p>which forms one of the six counties of North Wales, was to -that principality what the island of Sicily was to Italy, its -granary, and chief dependence for subsistence; it was likewise -the favourite spot, and the last asylum of the Druids in Britain; -it was to their venerable and sacred groves, in this their last -sanctuary, that they fled from Roman tyranny; and it was here, -around their altars, defenceless and undefended, save by -firebrands snatched from beneath the sacrifice, that these -venerable bigots fell, on the score of their religion, under the -murderous swords of Pagans, who, their means of attaining -knowledge being considered, were more ignorant than -themselves. Neither have we a right, on the bare testimony -of these their bloody tyrannical persecutors, to believe them to -have been guilty of the horrid rites and human sacrifices of -which they are accused. In what portion of history do we -find the state, the hero, or the conqueror, wanting a good and -sufficient reason to cover the plea for conquest <a -name="page207"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 207</span>or -aggression; and, above all, do we ever find the Romans, -throughout their history, wanting in such plea to cover the -basest of their actions? It was the religious stimulus by -which the Druids urged the Britons, even the females, to deeds of -heroic madness, to which the Romans owed the dear purchase in -life and blood of their British conquest; and which, whilst that -stimulus existed, they were but too well aware, must ever be -insecure: no wonder then, that to cover the inhumanity of a -cold-blooded warfare of extermination against a priesthood, that -controlled and guided the energies of a daring people, they -should represent them in their bloody orgies as immolating human -victims: nay, most probably, even the accusation was founded in -truth, but grossly and wilfully misrepresented; for the ministers -of religion being, most probably, the administrators of justice, -and sole keepers of traditionary laws, the sacrifice of guilty -culprits to such laws, to make a deeper impression on the minds -of hardy but superstitious barbarians, was made a religious -act. When we reflect on the late horrible sacrifices that -have been made in this country in the nineteenth century, to its -offended laws, and on those disgusting, though less dreadful -exhibitions, which are made so frequently, in a leading street of -the metropolis of Britain, that they, from their business-like, -unceremonious mode of execution, no longer deter from similar -offences: and when we see the culprits come forth attended by -ministers of religion, who may appear to uninformed by-standers -to superintend the ceremony, as to the lot of one of them it -falls to give the fatal signal; we should reflect how such a -spectacle may be misrepresented by an Indian, a Chinese, or an <a -name="page208"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 208</span>Esquimaux, -and then judge with due candour of the religious rites and -actions of the Druids.</p> -<p>Anglesea can no longer, with propriety, as it did of old, bear -the title of Ynys Dowyll, or the Shady Island; for those sacred -groves, those venerable oaks, which fell not under the harsh -mandates of its Roman, Saxon, or English invaders, have yielded -to the hand of time, or the avarice of man; and the late -appearance of the island was unsheltered and exposed, almost with -the exception of the respected hallowed shades of Plas-Newydd and -Baron Hill; but numerous and thriving plantations are now -springing up, doing away with that sterile appearance; and the -better and more speedily to accomplish this desirable end, public -nursery grounds have been established in the centre of the -island, to afford facilities for, and to encourage, -planting. It has had the desired effect; and by an -improvement in smelting the ore, and extracting the sulphur from -it, vegetation is no longer injured, even where there is any soil -on the Parys Mountain.</p> -<p>It was formerly divided into seven districts, or comots, but -at present its divisions are only six. It contains about -two hundred thousand acres of land; is in length, from north-west -to south-east, about twenty miles; in breadth, from north-east to -south-west, about sixteen miles; and in circumference about -seventy-six miles: has seventy-four parishes, and four -market-towns, and is in the diocese of Bangor. The number -of houses are estimated at 7183; the inhabitants at 37,045. -It sends two members to parliament, one for the county and one -for Beaumaris.</p> -<p><a name="page209"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 209</span>From -its too great deficiency of wood, and live fences, the sterility -of the Parys Mountain and its vicinity, and the rocky appearance -of the soil, there was formerly no semblance of that exuberant -fertility that would allow this small partially cultivated island -to export to the extent it does, both in live stock and grain, -viz. about 15,000 head of black cattle, about 5000 hogs, great -numbers of sheep, and nearly 4000 quarters of corn, besides -numerous other articles of produce and manufacture. Its -climate is more mild than that of Wales generally, but it is at -the same time subject to fogs and damp; the advantage and -disadvantage both attributable to the sea breezes. It is -well watered by numerous rivulets, and has abundance of harbours: -among the first is that well known and highly useful one of -Holyhead, which has of late been greatly improved: that of -Beaumaris is likewise good, and capable of carrying on -considerable trade. Besides these, there are the minor ones -of Red Wharf Bay, Dulas Bay, Amlwch, from which the copper ore, -&c. obtained from Parys Mountain is shipped, and which might -be greatly improved, Cemlyn, Aberfraw, &c.: most, or all of -them, might, at a small expense, be rendered still more safe and -useful. Besides its exports in corn and cattle, this small -island carries on great trade in copper, ochre, sulphur, -mill-stones, lead, &c. &c. It likewise produces -various specimens of marble (well known in London as Mona -marbles,) and amongst others the asbestos: it yields -potter’s clay and fullers’ earth, as well as coals, -which are now worked in the neighbourhood of Llangefni. -Neither is the sea <a name="page210"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -210</span>less bountiful than the land, affording a bill of fare -that would not disgrace the table of a London alderman.</p> -<p>On account of the great thoroughfare which this island has -become since the Union, from the exertions made by government to -afford safety and facility in the forwarding the principal Irish -mails and despatches, the roads are kept in excellent order.</p> -<h3>BEAUMARIS,</h3> -<p>the largest and best built town in Anglesea, is pleasantly -situated on the western shore of the bay of that name, and -commands a fine view of the sea and the Caernarvonshire -mountains. Its original name was Porth Wygyr. Its -harbour is well sheltered, and affords ample protection for -coasters and ships of considerable burthen, which, during -northerly winds, are driven there in great numbers, to avoid the -dangers of a lee shore. As no manufactures of consequence -are carried on in its neighbourhood, it is rather calculated for -great retirement than for active bustle; but being the county -town it is now and then enlivened by the gaieties attendant upon -assizes, elections, and other public meetings.</p> -<p>The castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the estate -of Richard Bulkeley Williams Bulkeley, Esq. close to the town, -and covers a considerable space of ground; but from its low -situation it was always inferior in point of strength to the -castles of Conway and Caernarvon.</p> -<p>Close above the town is Baron Hill, the seat of R. B. Williams -Bulkeley, Esq. delightfully situated on the declivity <a -name="page211"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 211</span>of a richly -wooded bank, and possessing a complete command of every object -which can add to the charms of picturesque scenery. The -park extends to, and nearly surrounds, the west and north sides -of the town; whilst the rising ground, upon which the mansion -stands, shelters the town from the rude blasts that would -otherwise assail it; thus giving it that protection from the -raging elements which the last noble owner ever afforded to its -inhabitants, when sorrow and adversities assailed their domestic -peace. To enumerate all the acts of Lord Bulkeley’s -munificence and kindness would be impossible, but a few of them -may be seen in the neighbourhood of Beaumaris.</p> -<p>The beautiful road of four miles and a half, along the shore -of the Menai to the suspension bridge, was made at the expense of -Lord and Lady Bulkeley, in 1804: it cost about 3000<i>l.</i> and, -when completed, was presented to the public, and kept in repair -by the owner of Baron Hill until 1827, when an act of parliament -was obtained, making it a public road, and commissioners -appointed, who have erected a turnpike-gate thereon, and under -whose inspection and influence it has been considerably improved -in width, and the precipices reduced. A road possessed of -greater picturesque beauty is not to be found in Britain.</p> -<p>The church was kept in repair by the late Lord Bulkeley, to -which he presented a new organ, a set of elegant communion plate, -a clock, and a peal of six fine toned bells; together costing -about 1200<i>l.</i> He also gave a good house to the rector -for the time being. The national school, as well as the -master’s house, was built <a name="page212"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 212</span>by public subscription, on land -given by the late Lord Bulkeley, and the master’s and -mistress’s salaries were paid by him and his lady.</p> -<p>Many more acts of their liberality might be enumerated, but -these are sufficient to prove them zealous protecting friends and -kind neighbours. Their numerous deeds of private charity -ought not to be blazoned to the world, but they will live long in -the grateful remembrance of those around them.</p> -<p>Beaumaris, situated 249 miles from London, had, in 1811, 249 -houses, and 1,810 inhabitants; and in 1821 a population of -2,205. It is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, -twenty-four capital burgesses, and several inferior -officers. It formerly possessed an extensive trade; but has -declined since the rise of Liverpool.</p> -<p>From Beaumaris we proceeded, by Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, to -Amlwch; the distance is about sixteen miles, through a pleasant -country, in parts greatly resembling England. About a mile -from Red Wharf Bay you pass the village of Pentraeth, <i>The End -of the Sands</i>. The situation is pleasant; and Mr. Grose -was so taken with the picturesque beauty of its small church, as -to give a view of it in his Antiquities.</p> -<p>Near this, in a field at Plâs Gwynne, the seat of the -Panton family, are two stones, placed, as tradition says, to mark -the bounds of an astonishing leap, which obtained for the active -performer of it the wife of his choice; but it appears, that as -he leaped into her affections with difficulty, he ran away from -them with ease; for going to a distant part of the country, where -he had occasion to reside several years, he found, on his return, -<a name="page213"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 213</span>that his -wife had, on that very morning, been married to another -person. Eenion, on hearing this, took his harp, and, -sitting down at the door, explained in Welsh metre who he was, -and where he had been resident. His wife narrowly -scrutinized his person, unwilling to give up her new spouse, when -he exclaimed:</p> -<blockquote><p>Look not, Angharad, on my silver hair,<br /> - Which once shone bright of golden lively hue:<br /> -Man does not last like gold:—he that was fair<br /> - Will soon decay, though gold continue new.</p> -<p>If I have lost Angharad, lovely fair!<br /> - The gift of brave Ednyfed, and my spouse,<br /> -All I’ve not lost, (all must from hence repair),<br /> - Nor bed, nor harp, nor yet my ancient house.</p> -<p>I once have leap’d to show my active power,<br /> - A leap which none could equal or exceed,<br /> -The leap in Aber Nowydd, which thou, fair flower!<br /> - Didst once so much admire, thyself the meed.</p> -<p>Full fifty feet, as still the truth is known,<br /> - And many witnesses can still attest;<br /> -How there the prize I won, thyself must own:<br /> - This action stamp’d my worth within thy -breast.</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Bingley’s -North Wales</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>At Llanfair, which is about a mile distant from this road, was -born the celebrated scholar and poet, Goronwy Owen, who, -notwithstanding his acknowledged and admired abilities, was, -after a series of hardships and struggles, obliged to expatriate -himself to the wilds of Virginia, <a name="page214"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 214</span>where he was appointed pastor of the -church. He was well versed in the Latin, Greek, and -oriental languages, was a skilful antiquary and an excellent -poet. His Latin odes are greatly admired; but his Welsh -poems rank him among the most distinguished bards of his -country.</p> -<p>About five miles west of Beaumaris is Peny-mynydd, the -birth-place of Owen Tudor, a private gentleman, who, having -married Catherine of France, the Dowager of our Henry V. in 1428, -became the ancestor of a line of monarchs. They had three -sons and one daughter. The daughter died in her infancy: -Edmund was created Earl of Richmond, and marrying a daughter of -the Duke of Somerset, had Henry, afterwards Henry VII. -Jasper was created Earl of Pembroke; and Owen became a -monk. By means of his marriage, therefore, Owen Tudor not -only became father to a line of kings, but in his son, as Gray -says, Wales came to be governed again by their own princes.</p> -<p>The Tudor family became extinct in Richmond Tudor, who died in -1657, and the estate belongs to R. B. Williams Bulkeley, -Esq. In the church is one of their monuments, removed from -Lanvaes Abbey at its dissolution.</p> -<h3>LLANELIAN</h3> -<p>is about two miles east of Amlwch, near the coast: Mr. -Bingley’s account of which, and the superstitious -ceremonies still attaching to it, is both curious and -entertaining:</p> -<blockquote><p>“The church is by no means an inelegant -structure; <a name="page215"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -215</span>and adjoining to it is a small chapel of very ancient -foundation, that measures in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, -called Myfyr, <i>the confessional</i>. A curious closet of -wood, of an hexagonal form, called <i>St. Elian’s -closet</i>, is yet left in the east wall; and is supposed to have -served both the office of communion table, and as a chest to -contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the -chapel. There is a hole in the wall of the chapel, through -which the priests are supposed to have received confessions: the -people believe this hole to have been used in returning oracular -answers to persons who made inquiries of the saint respecting -future events. Near the door is placed Cyff Elian, -<i>Elian’s chest</i>, or poor-box. People out of -health, even to this day, send their offering to the saint, which -they put through a hole into the box. A silver groat, -though not a very common coin, is said to be a present peculiarly -acceptable, and has been known to procure his intercession, when -all other kinds of coin have failed! The sum thus -deposited, which in the course of a year frequently amounts to -several pounds, the churchwardens annually divide among the poor -of the parish.</p> -<p>“The wakes of Llanelian were formerly held on the three -first Friday evenings in August; but they are now confined to -only one of those days. Young persons from all parts of the -adjacent country, and even from distant counties, assemble here; -most of whom have along with them some offering for the saint, to -ensure their future prosperity, palliate their offences, and -secure blessings on their families, their cattle, and corn.</p> -<p>“The misguided devotees assemble about the chapel, <a -name="page216"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 216</span>and having -deposited their offerings, many of them proceed to search into -their future destiny in a very singular manner, by means of the -wooden closet. Persons of both sexes, of all ages and -sizes, enter the small door-way, and if they can succeed in -turning themselves round within the narrow limits of the place, -(which measures only betwixt three and four feet in height, about -four feet across the back, and eighteen inches in width,) they -believe that they shall be fortunate till at least the ensuing -wake; but if they do not succeed in this difficult undertaking, -they esteem it an omen of ill fortune, or of their death within -the year. I have been told, that it is curious enough to -see a stout lusty fellow, weighing perhaps sixteen or eighteen -stone, striving to creep into these narrow confines, with as much -confidence of success as a stripling a yard high; and when he -fails in the attempt, to see him fuming and fretting, because his -body, which contains in solid bulk more than the place could -hold, were it crammed into all corners, cannot be got in. -But when we consider that superstition and enthusiasm have -generally little to do with reason, we must not wonder at this -addition to the heap of incongruities that all ages have afforded -us.</p> -<p>“Llanelian was formerly a sanctuary, or place of refuge -for criminals. In digging a grave in the churchyard, about -sixteen years ago, a deep trench was discovered, which extended -about twenty yards in a transverse direction across. It was -found to contain a great quantity of human bones; and is supposed -to have been the place of interment of a number of sailors, who -perished in a storm that drove them upon this coast.”</p> -</blockquote> -<h3><a name="page217"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -217</span>AMLWCH,</h3> -<p>or <i>the Winding Loch</i>, is a dirty-looking straggling -town, founded on rocks. It owes its support chiefly to the -copper works in its vicinity. The church is a neat modern -structure, dedicated to Elaeth, a British saint: the port, which -is but small, is notwithstanding excellently adapted for the -trade which is carried on; it is narrow, capable of only -containing two vessels abreast, of about 200 tons burthen each, -and of these it will furnish room for about thirty; the entrance -is by a chasm between two rocks.</p> -<p>The Parys Mountain, like the works at Merthyr, shews what the -industry of man is capable of accomplishing in removing rocks, -mountains, and dragging forth the bowels of the earth. To -those who possess good nerves, the view of this scene of wealth -and industry will afford gratification unalloyed; but to those -not so blessed, the horrific situations in which the principal -actors of the scene are placed, poised in air, exposed to the -blasting of the rocks, and the falling of materials, which -themselves are sending aloft, or from those which may be -misdirected, as ascending from the workings of others, by -striking against projecting crags, seem to threaten death in so -many varied shapes, that the wonder and admiration excited by the -place are lost in pity and anxiety for the hardy miners.</p> -<p>From the top of the mountain the dreadful yawning chasm, with -the numerous stages erected over the edge of the precipice, appal -rather than gratify the observer. To see the mine to -advantage, you must descend to the <a name="page218"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 218</span>bottom, and be provided with a -guide, to enable you to shun the danger, that would be -considerable, from the blasts and falling materials; the workmen -generally not being able to see those that their operations may -endanger.</p> -<p>The Mona mine is the entire property of the Marquis of -Anglesea. The Parys mine is shared.</p> -<p>The mountain has been worked with varied success for about -sixty-five years: it is now believed to be under the average; but -whether that arises from the low price of the article, or the -mine being exhausted, I am unable to say: for a considerable -period it produced 20,000 tons annually. One bed of ore was -upwards of sixty feet in thickness. In the blasting the -rock, to procure the ore, from six to eight tons of gunpowder are -yearly consumed.</p> -<p>“This celebrated mountain,” says Mr. Evans, -“is easily distinguished from the rest; for it is perfectly -barren from the summit to the plain below: not a single shrub, -and hardly a blade of grass, being able to live in its sulphurous -atmosphere.</p> -<blockquote><p>“No grassy mantle hides the sable hills,<br -/> -No flowery chaplet crowns the trickling rills;<br /> -Nor tufted moss, nor leathery lichen creeps<br /> -In russet tapestry, o’er the crumbling steeps.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span -class="smcap">Darwin</span>.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/map-nwb.jpg"> -<img alt= -"Map of North Wales" -title= -"Map of North Wales" - src="images/map-nws.jpg" /> -</a></p> -</blockquote> -<p>From hence we proceeded to</p> -<h3>HOLYHEAD,</h3> -<p>called in Welsh <i>Caergybi</i>, situated on an island at the -<a name="page219"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 219</span>western -extremity of Anglesea. It has lately changed its aspect -from a poor fishing village to a decent looking town, in -consequence of its being the chief resort for passengers to and -from Dublin. The distance across the channel is about -fifty-five miles; and there are four steam packets which daily -cross the channel, with the mail and government despatches.</p> -<p>Each vessel has two cabins, beautifully fitted up, light and -airy; and every thing appears to have been attended to, that can -either add to the comfort or safety of the passengers: expense -has not been spared for that which was useful, and conducive to -safety; and the equipment having been superintended by the late -Captain Rogers, an experienced officer, on the Holyhead station, -nothing has been misapplied. The passage is effected in -from five and a half to seven hours, a distance of fifty-five -miles; and the letters are delivered in Dublin from London in the -short space of forty hours.</p> -<p>In short, the attention which government has evinced to -facilitate the communication between the two kingdoms merits -every praise. Neither exertion nor expense have been spared -in improving the roads from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which -improvements have been executed under the direction of Mr. -Telford, who is now commencing on that from Chester to the above -place; and now the suspension bridge over Conway Ferry (for which -parliament voted 40,000<i>l.</i>) is completed, in addition to -that over the Menai at Bangor Ferry, but few persons will run the -risk of a dilatory and dangerous passage by Liverpool, when they -may have a certain and a safe one by Holyhead, with excellent -roads and accommodation; <a name="page220"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 220</span>and without the trouble of the -ferries, which were formerly an inconvenience to persons taking -this route.</p> -<p>Near the centre of the town, on a rock close above the sea, is -a church, on the site where <i>St. Cybi</i>, in <span -class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 380, founded a small monastery, -which, in 580, was converted into a college by <i>Maelgwyn -Gwynedd</i>, or, according to some, by <i>Hwfa ap Cynddelw</i>, -Lord of Llifon, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales. -James I. granted this college to Francis Morris and Francis -Phillips, which afterwards became the property of Rice Gwyn, Esq. -who bestowed the great tithes on Jesus College, Oxford, for the -maintenance of two fellows and two scholars: from that time the -parish has been served by a curate nominated by the -college. This church is a handsome embattled edifice, built -in the form of a cross, with this inscription, on a pediment of -the north transept: “<i>Sancte Kyb. ora pro -nobis</i>.” The walls of the churchyard are seventeen -feet high, six feet thick, and form a quadrangle; three sides of -which are evidently Roman, although ascribed to <i>Caswellon -Llawhir</i>, a chieftain of Anglesea, in the fifth century: the -east side is a modern low wall on the verge of the cliffs.</p> -<p>A fine extensive pier is now completed, on an island called -<i>Ynys-halen</i>, which forms the north side of the harbour; at -the extremity of which is a fine light-house, exhibiting a -brilliant light by oil gas. This grand national undertaking -has already afforded an asylum to the trade of the Channel: no -less than sixty or eighty vessels have entered the harbour in one -day, and many more have sailed out in one tide. Before the -erection of the <a name="page221"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -221</span>pier, which commenced in 1809, many valuable vessels, -seeking for shelter in stormy weather, were lost with their crews -on the southern shores of the harbour. From this port are -sent upwards of 40,000 bushels of excellent grain every -year. It contains 4071 inhabitants.</p> -<p>Under the mountain which overhangs the town, called the Head, -is a large cavern, supported by natural huge pillars, named the -Parliament House: this, as well as several others, perforate deep -into the mountain, and is inaccessible without a boat. The -South Slack light-house, on an islet, within about twenty yards -of the bold cliffs of the mountain, exhibits a revolving light of -the greatest utility. The islet is connected with the -mountain by means of a suspension bridge, which is worthy the -attention of the curious. Among these rocks vast numbers of -the peregrine falcon take, up their abode, together with pigeons, -gulls, puffins, razor-bills, and other sea-birds.</p> -<p>In returning from Holyhead, instead of taking the old -circuitous line of road by Gwyndee and Llangefni, we took the new -road, formed by Mr. Telford under the direction of the -parliamentary commissioners, and which cost government, exclusive -of bridges and embankments, at the rate of 2000<i>l.</i> per -mile. The steepest part of the present line does not exceed -one in thirty, and is considered the finest specimen of -road-making in the kingdom, and at the same time reduces the -distance from Holyhead to Bangor full three miles.</p> -<p>Having again reached Bangor, we determined still farther to -explore the beauties of this delightful spot and its -vicinity. Having taken a hasty refreshment, we bent <a -name="page222"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 222</span>our steps -towards Aber cegin, near the mouth of a small rivulet that -empties itself into Port Penrhyn, and from thence proceeded -to</p> -<h3>PENRHYN CASTLE,</h3> -<p>the mansion of George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq. which is -delightfully situated on a wooded eminence, between the estuaries -of the Cegin and the Ogwen, about two miles east of the city of -Bangor. It commands a fine view of the bay and town of -Beaumaris to the north; the great Ormes Head, and Penmaen-mawr -terminate the prospect on the east; and towards the south, the -scene is closed by a bold and romantic range of mountains.</p> -<p>A short distance west of the Castle is Port Penrhyn, where the -slates are brought down from Mr. Pennant’s quarry, and -shipped in immense quantities to various parts of the -world. It is easy of access, perfectly sheltered, and -capable of accommodating trading vessels of upwards of 300 tons -burthen.</p> -<p>It is but justice to the successor of the late Lord Penrhyn to -say, that along with the estate, he appears to inherit the same -spirit for improvement. The recent extension of the quay at -Port Penrhyn, is one of the many instances which might be -recited; by it, accommodation has been given to about fifty sail -of traders, in addition to the former shipping-place, making the -total length of the quay upwards of three hundred yards. A -neat stone bridge over the river Cegin, which runs in at the head -of the port, forms a complete connexion between the quay, the -limeworks, the sea-shore, and the city.</p> -<p>Penrhyn Castle possesses a great curiosity; and Mr. <a -name="page223"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -223</span>Evans’s account of it, in his Topography, being -both judicious and entertaining, I subjoin it. It is the -Hirlas or drinking-horn of Piers Gryffydd, which is perhaps the -only elegant specimen of that kind of utensil elucidatory of -ancient manners.</p> -<p>“It is a large bugle horn of an ox, ornamented with -enchased silver, and suspended by a chain of the same metal, -having the initials of his own name and family engraved at the -end. In the royal court of Cambria, there were legally -<i>three</i> sorts of horns, for the purpose of private or public -libations. The first was y corn ydd yfo y brenin, or the -one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, corn -cyweithas, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to -duty. And, third, corn y pencynydd, committed to the -custody of the chief huntsman. Each of these was to be of -the reputed value of one pound. On grand occurrences, the -domestics of the palace were permitted to drink out of the -sovereign’s horn, and the chamberlain, or high steward, on -such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous -metheglin. The contents of the horn, at these times, -assumed the name of the sacred potion, similar to the <i>wassail -bowl</i>, or the apostle’s cup, in use among the -Saxons. Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the -church of York, is said to have quaffed off the sparkling -contents of such a vessel, drinking a health, “<i>Deo et -Sancto Petro</i>,” to God and St. Peter. On festive -days, the imperious custom was to empty the horn at one tip, and -instantly blow it, as a testimony that no dereliction of draught -had occurred.</p> -<blockquote><p> <a name="page224"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 224</span>“Fill the horn with foaming -liquor,<br /> - Fill it up, my boy, be quicker;<br /> - Hence away despair and sorrow,<br /> - Time enough to sigh to-morrow.<br /> - Let the brimming goblet smile,<br /> - And Ednyfed’s cares beguile.<br /> - Gallant youth, unus’d to fear,<br /> - Master of the broken spear;<br /> - And the arrow-pierced shield,<br /> - Brought with honour from the field.<br /> - Like a hurricane is he<br /> - Bursting on the troubled sea.<br /> - See their spears distain’d with gore,<br /> - Hear the din of battle roar,<br /> - Bucklers, swords, together clashing,<br /> - Sparkles from their helmets flashing,<br /> - Hear ye not their loud alarms?<br /> - Hark! they shout—to arms! to arms!<br /> - Thus were Garthen’s plains defended,<br /> - Melor fight, began and ended:<br /> - There two princes fought: and there<br /> -Was Mowrach Vowran’s feast exchang’d for rout and -fear.” <a name="citation224"></a><a href="#footnote224" -class="citation">[224]</a></p> -</blockquote> -<p>The rail-road and inclined planes formed by the late Lord -Penrhyn, to reduce the labour and risk of bringing <a -name="page225"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 225</span>down the -slates to the port, with numerous other improvements, are -estimated to have cost his lordship one hundred and seventy -thousand pounds.</p> -<p>The much-admired church of Llandegai is a neat Gothic edifice, -which has recently been greatly improved and beautified; the late -Lady Penrhyn having left a noble bequest for that purpose. -“The whole interior has been renewed, viz. the seats, -pulpit, communion, ceiling, plaistering, and floor, and the tower -raised, in order to admit a peal of six bells: a legacy for which -has been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as well as one for the -erection of a monument to her deceased lord, which is now fixed -up in the church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of -work.”—<i>Williams</i>.</p> -<p>It is made of statuary marble, and represents two large -figures; the one is a female peasant girl weeping over the loss -of her deceased lord and lady; the other a quarryman, with an -iron bar and slate knife in his hand, earnestly regarding the -inscription, which commemorates his benefactors. Besides -these, the following four smaller figures strongly depict the -wonderful changes effected on the face of the country, and on the -morals, habits, and comforts of its inhabitants, by the noble and -spirited exertions of the late Lord Penrhyn.</p> -<p>The first is a boy, with two reeds in his mouth, feeding his -goats on the mountains, being an emblem of this country, on its -appearance to Lord Penrhyn when it was in a very rough -state. 2nd, Two boys working in the slate quarry; being an -emblem of industry. 3rd, One boy teaching another; being an -emblem of religion. 4th, Three boys standing in a wheat -field, bearing their sickles; <a name="page226"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 226</span>being an emblem or representation of -plenty. Here likewise are interred the remains of the -celebrated Archbishop Williams; who is represented in his robes, -in a kneeling position, on a mural monument.</p> -<p>Mr. Pennant’s slate quarry is about six miles from -Bangor, on the road to Capel-Curig, and Cerniogi-Mawr. St. -Ann’s Chapel, near the quarries, was erected and liberally -endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left a sum of -money for an organ, and a suitable stipend for the organist.</p> -<p>The traveller is greatly indebted to the present Mr. Pennant, -as well as to the late Lord Penrhyn, for the very great and -comfortable accommodation he now derives from their exertions on -this line of road. The inn at Capel-Curig is now large and -convenient; in addition to which, and to save time, Mr. Pennant -has caused to be erected a cottage and stables, to enable parties -in haste, as well as the mail and coaches, to change horses -without going down to the inn.</p> -<p>Near the slate quarry is the pretty cottage of the late Lady -Penrhyn, called Ogwen Bank. It is a perfect paradise, -arising out of chaos; the style is the florid Gothic, and shews -great taste in the designer. The centre contains an elegant -room, the front of it forming the segment of a circle; the wings -contain coach-houses and stabling. Over the river Ogwen, in -a rough and picturesque part of it, is a bridge corresponding -with the house. All visitors to the house are requested to -sign their names in a book kept for that purpose. This -beautiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and -plantations.</p> -<p>Having satisfied ourselves with the view of this charming <a -name="page227"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 227</span>retreat, we -proceeded to a comfortable inn, called Tynymaes, (now a -post-house, with good stables,) and partook of some refreshment, -prior to a more full investigation of the horrors and beauties of -the vale of Beavers, or Nant Ffrancon; for in this once solitary -and dreadful glen, those useful and astonishingly ingenious -animals were once found, whose skins were then valued at 120 -pence. The awful grandeur of the surrounding barren rugged -rocks are finely contrasted by the rich verdant bottom of the -glen, and the thick foliage and luxuriant plantations of Ogwen -Bank. Descending from the road into a hollow, we had a fine -view of the cataracts of Benlog; down which the waters of five -lakes rush into the pool beneath; the lower fall of the three, -which is the largest, is seen to the greatest advantage by -climbing a rugged rock. “Here,” says Mr. -Bingley, “the stream roared with vast fury, and in one -sheet of foam, down an unbroken and almost perpendicular -rock. The sun shone directly upon it, and a prismatic bow -was beautifully formed by the spray. The tremendous roar of -the water, and the broken and uncouth disposition of the -immediately surrounding rocks, added greatly to the interest of -the scene. After a while I climbed a rocky steep to the -second or middle fall. Here the river is precipitated, in a -fine stream, through a chasm between two perpendicular rocks that -each rise several yards above. From the station I took, the -immense mountain Trivain was seen to fill up the wide space at -the top; heightened greatly in effect by a dark aërial tint -arising from the extreme heat of the day, and the lowering clouds -that were floating around. The masses of black rocks, -surrounded by <a name="page228"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -228</span>foam, near the top of the fall, I could have fancied -were floating along the torrent, and rushing to the bottom. -The stream widens as it descends, and below passes over a -slanting rock, which gives it somewhat of a different -direction. In the foreground was the rugged bed of the -stream, and the water was seen to dash in various directions -among the broken masses of rock. The third cataract, to -which I now clambered, I found very grand and majestic, yet by no -means equal to either of the former. These waterfalls are -scarcely known in the adjacent country, and have been -unaccountably omitted even in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, although -this gentleman accurately describes most of the scenery around -them.</p> -<p>“Leaving the falls, the trouble of visiting which had -been amply repaid by the pleasure I had derived from them, I -regained the road. On crossing the upper end of the vale, I -was delighted with a very beautiful and unexpected view for -nearly its whole length; where the mountains down each side -appeared, to a great distance, falling off in beautiful -perspective.”</p> -<p>Mr. Bingley experienced not more pleasure than we did in the -view of these cataracts; but he was fortunate in having more -leisure to add to it, by viewing Y Trivaen, or the Three Summits, -which bounds the right extremity of the hollow, and Llyn Ogwen, -from which the river of that name takes its rise: Mr. -Hutton’s description of it made us greatly regret the -pleasure we were obliged to decline; but having upwards of five -miles to return to Bangor, although our road was all down hill, -we found it necessary so to do, from the previous fatigues of the -day: rocks, Welsh roads, and the viewing of slate quarries, <a -name="page229"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 229</span>prove the -stamina of a tourist. Mr. Hutton approached Llyn Ogwen from -Capel-Curig, where there is now an excellent inn, much frequented -during the summer months by parties of pleasure. His -description is as follows:</p> -<p>“A stranger to the country, to the language, and almost -to man, I returned to Nant Gwynant, slept at Capel-Curig, and was -wandering over Lord Penrhyn’s new road towards -Caernarvon. The cascades on my left were rolling down with -violence, after heavy rain, when a sheet of water, one mile long -and three quarters wide, presented itself to view; which by the -map I knew must be Ogwen Pool. But what was my surprise, -when, at the extremity of the pool, I instantly found myself upon -a precipice two hundred feet high, and, in a moment, a most -beautiful valley burst upon me of nearly one mile wide and four -long; the river rushing down this precipice in several stages, -and winding full in view through this delightful valley. -The rocks appeared tremendous, the mountains sloping, and the -verdure increasing with the descent to the bottom, where, if -poetically inclined, I might say, ‘Nature sat in majesty, -adorned in her best robe of green velvet.’ When I had -travelled about three miles along this sequestered valley, I saw -four people endeavouring to repair a gate. I addressed one -who appeared likely to understand English. He readily -answered several questions respecting the road, and other -objects. ‘My way, I am informed, Sir, lies through -Nant Ffrancon; pray how shall I know when I am in -it?’ ‘You are in it now.’ Over part -of this vale impends Yr ala wen, its front torn into amazing -gullies.”</p> -<p><a name="page230"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 230</span>The -new mail-road between Bangor and Cernioga Mawr, through -Capel-Curig, saves upwards of nine miles; by this road, through -Shrewsbury, the distance to London is two hundred and thirty-six -miles three furlongs: the old mail-road, through Chester, is two -hundred and fifty-one miles one furlong; and the former road, -through Shrewsbury, Llanrwst, Conway, and over Penmaen-mawr, is -two hundred and forty-five miles, or by Bridgenorth, two hundred -and fifty-two miles.</p> -<p>Along this road lies some exquisite scenery: and the following -passage from the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, -will agreeably illustrate the feelings with which it impregnated -the author.</p> -<p>“As Helvidius was making an excursion among the -mountains, stretching to the east of Moelshiabod, he arrived at -the bridge, across a small rivulet; and sitting down upon the -grass, fell asleep under the shade of a large holly tree. -He awoke just as the sun was sinking in the horizon; a slight -shower succeeded; all nature became renovated; and the perfumes, -which embalmed the air, seemed even capable of wafting him to the -Elysian Fields. The tree, beneath which he reposed, stood -in a valley, matchless even in the Island of Madagascar; and the -cones of several mountains gave an air of grandeur to the -perspective, which nature has forbidden in most other -regions. He was lost, as it were, in the enthusiasm of his -admiration! At that moment Lord — passed in his -coach, apparently insensible to the scenes through which he was -conveyed. Oh! how an indiscriminate mingling with men -blunts the best feelings of the human heart! ‘Had his -Lordship,’ thought Helvidius, ‘seen <a -name="page231"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 231</span>these -lovely pictures, even a thousand and a thousand times before, he -might have derived enjoyment from witnessing them again; since it -is the autumnal season of the year; and the woods, and shrubs -growing out of the rocks, are variegated in a manner that even -Salvator Rosa would have loved to look upon them!’</p> -<p>“Though Helvidius was mortified at this insensibility on -the part of the statesman, and felt so ready to condemn his taste -and want of sensibility, he was weak enough to feel more at war -with himself than with him; and began seriously to question which -were the wiser of the two; the man who loves, or he who neglects, -the varied objects of the material world. ‘He is a -Peer,’ exclaimed he to himself, ‘a man of -education,—a statesman,—one who is looked up to in -the world, as being, in a manner, pre-eminent over his -species:—he seems to have little relish for all these -objects, which I have been looking upon with such -enthusiasm. It must be folly and weakness in me, therefore, -to indulge this humour; a humour, which, from what I have seen of -mankind, I am sensible that most men, who look not up through -every object they see, to the Architect that makes it, would -esteem frivolous and idle, if not criminal. There are no -silver mines here: nor does this rivulet leave any gold-dust upon -its shores!’ He sat down mortified. To -dissipate his chagrin, he took a volume of Epictetus out of his -pocket, and opening the book, his eye alighted upon the following -passage. ‘As when you see an asp in a golden casket, -you do not esteem that asp happy, because it is inclosed in -materials so costly and so magnificent, but despise and would -shun it, on account of its venom: so, when you see vice lodged <a -name="page232"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 232</span>in the -midst of wealth and the swelling pride of fortune, be not struck -with the splendour of the materials, with which it is surrounded, -but despise the gross alloy of its manners and -sentiments.’ Upon reading this passage, Helvidius -became instantly ashamed of his folly, and reconciled to his -enthusiasm. ‘Though this is a man,’ said he to -himself, ‘who, like the King of Sweden’s enchanted -cup, can almost make the wind turn to any part of the compass, -which pleases his humour most: though he is perpetually -surrounded by persons, who, if he were to take his shoe from off -his foot, hurl it into the air, and proclaim it a god, would -worship it as it fell; and though he is a rising sun, whom half -the world would worship; yet would I rather be able to trace the -Power which formed this holly-tree, up to as far as my -imagination is capable of soaring, than be the man for him to -shake by the hand; to admit to his banquets; to revel with his -minions; to hang, as it were, upon his lips; and to be raised to -ecstasy by his smiles!</p> -<blockquote><p>“Climb at court for me that will<br /> -Tottering favour’s pinnacle;<br /> -All I wish is to be still.<br /> - Settled in some secret nest,<br /> - In calm quiet let me rest:<br /> - And far from off the public stage,<br /> - Pass away my quiet age.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>On leaving Bangor we proceeded to the pretty little village of -Aber, which gives its name to the last of the ferries over the -Menai. The walk from the village across the Lavan Sands to -the ferry is about four miles. This <a -name="page233"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 233</span>walk it -would be hazardous for a stranger to undertake without a guide, -as the sands frequently shift. During foggy weather, the -large bell of Aber, given for this purpose by Lord Bulkeley, is -constantly rung, as a guide to direct those coming from the -island.</p> -<p>Near the bridge is a circular mount, seemingly artificial, -which was the foundation of a small castle, probably constructed -of timber, as many of the Welsh fortresses were; the vestiges of -the moat and its feeder from the river still remain.</p> -<p>“Traces of buildings have been discovered near the spot, -which were probably the remains of the prince’s palace, as -the inhabitants still pretend to show strangers the foundation of -the old kitchen. Several memorials, &c. appear in our -Welsh histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn, which is the ancient -name by which this place was -distinguished.”—<i>Williams</i>.</p> -<p>At the siege of Montgomery, in the reign of Henry the Third, -Llewelyn ap Iorwerth took prisoner a potent baron, named William -de Breos, whom he conducted to this castle. William, who -was both accomplished and handsome, gained not only the -friendship of his conqueror, but likewise the affections of his -wife, <a name="citation233"></a><a href="#footnote233" -class="citation">[233]</a> with whom he ventured to carry on an -intrigue. This not having been discovered by Llewelyn till -after the baron had been ransomed, he condescended to resort to a -breach of hospitality, for the purpose of getting him again into -his power.</p> -<p>De Breos having accepted an invitation from Llewelyn <a -name="page234"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 234</span>to visit -him, the latter no sooner got possession of his person, than he -caused him to be hung on the side of the opposite hill. The -next morning the bard of the palace (the princess being ignorant -of his fate) accosted her in the following rhyme:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,<br /> -Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?”</p> -<p>“Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a -sight of your William?”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>To which the princess answered:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn<br /> -Y rown I gyd am weled Gwilym!”</p> -<p>“Wales and England and Llywelyn,<br /> -I’d give them all to see my William!”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The bard, thus aggravating Llewelyn’s cruelty, shewed -him to her hanging on a tree, on the side of the hill, at a place -called Wern Grogedig. Upon a mountain, about a mile south -of Llewelyn’s Castle, in a field called Cae Gwlyn du, is a -cave where William de Breos was interred, still called Tyddyn -Gwilym.</p> -<p>Aber is much resorted to during the summer season, the sands -at high water affording excellent bathing: the inn likewise -affords good accommodation. It chiefly belongs to Lord -Bulkeley, and exhibits numerous proofs of his lordship’s -benevolence: amongst the rest a new steeple to the church, with a -ring of bells.</p> -<p><a name="page235"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 235</span>From -hence, after passing Gosddinog (Mrs. Crawley’s) we soon -reached the dark lowering promontory of Pen-mawn-mawr, about -eight miles from Bangor, rising perpendicularly, in a massy wall, -to the height of one thousand four hundred feet: huge fragments -of shattered rock are scattered by the side of the road; and a -wall, scarcely five feet high, alone protects a carriage from the -steep precipice; which, from the slightness of the foundation, -has even fallen down in many parts. In this awfully sublime -situation we remained for some time, astonished at the bold -protuberance of the rocks, which seemed to project their dark -sides to augment the idle roar of the waves.</p> -<p>The difference between looking up and looking down a precipice -is well marked by Mr. Jefferson, in the account he furnished the -Marquis de Chastellux, of the Virginian bridge of rocks. -“Though the sides of the bridge,” says he, “are -provided, in some parts, with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few -men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into the -abyss. You voluntarily fall on your hands and feet, creep -to the parapet, and look over it. Looking from the height -about a minute gave me a violent head-ache. If the view -from the top be painful and intolerable, that from below is -delightful in the extreme. It is impossible for the -emotions, arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what they -are on the sight of so beautiful an arch; so elevated and so -light, springing up, as it were, to heaven. The rapture of -the spectator is indescribable.”</p> -<p>In keeping the direct line of road the traveller leaves behind -him many antiquities worthy of attention; Mr. <a -name="page236"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -236</span>Williams’s account of which, from his being a -resident near the spot, appearing to be the best, as well as -containing a most full and interesting description of the ancient -Welsh or British games, I shall transcribe: at the same time -strongly recommending the work to such as wish to take a minute -survey of this county.—His route is reversed, “but as -most strangers will, no doubt, proceed from Conway to Bangor, it -shall be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some -particulars which are worth their attention along this -road. For the first two miles he will proceed up hill, -until he comes to an opening between two rocks, near a place -called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a most magnificent scene -presents itself. From hence he commands a full view of -Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels; -the Puffin, or Priestholm island, the village of Llangoed, the -town of Beaumaris, Baron-hill, and the Friars; the former, the -beautiful seat of the Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter, -that of his brother, Sir Robert Williams, Bart. M.P. all on the -Anglesea shore. On the Caernarvonshire side, Bangor and -Penrhyn Castle; and last, though not least, the huge -Penmaen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a -natural barrier in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off -every communication this way, and render any farther progress -impracticable. The art of man has, however, at length -conquered these difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for -about the year 1772, an excellent road was formed along the edge -of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice, under the -direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, parliament having -generously <a name="page237"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -237</span>voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to this -event several fatal accidents had happened here; and one or two -nearly miraculous escapes are recorded in Pennant’s tour -through North Wales. At that time no carriage passed this -way, and consequently all the travelling was either on foot or on -horseback. Dean Swift was generally a pedestrian, and in -one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a pane of -glass, at the old inn (now a farm-house) near this -mountain:—</p> -<blockquote><p>‘Before you venture here to pass,<br /> -Take a good refreshing glass;<br /> -And when you are over take another,<br /> -Your fainting spirits to recover.’</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“Before the traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, -just mentioned, to the little vale Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate -a little to the left, in order to examine some antiquities, near -a place called Gwddw Glâs, in that parish. Here are -several circles of stones, of various diameters, and large -Carneddau, viz. barrows, or tumuli; supposed to have been -memorials of those heroes who fell in the field of battle, as -cistfaens, or stone coffins, are frequently discovered in some of -these circular heaps or collection of stones. The principal -circle now consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances: -the largest is eight feet three inches high; on the ground is -another, eleven feet two inches; the diameter of this circle is -eighty feet.</p> -<p>“Near this are four other smaller circles; in the centre -of one is a flat stone, the remains of a cromlech, from which it -may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or <a -name="page238"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 238</span>bardic -circle. About a quarter of a mile from these is a large -circle, composed of small stones, and near it another of large -stones; and not far from these another circle, composed of -smaller stones.</p> -<p>“Near the last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y -Campiau, or the stone of games; and nearly contiguous is a -carnedd, and a small circle of twelve stones; adjoining to these -are also a great number of what are now called in this country -Cyttiau Gwyddelod (woodmen or Irishmen’s huts), being the -foundations of small buildings, made of round stones; and the -vestige of a road is still visible in a direction from hence -towards the Conway. Some of these last might probably have -been the summer habitations or encampment of a small detachment -of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer Rhun, or Conovium, for the -purpose of protecting their cattle.</p> -<p>“Having mentioned Maen y Campiau, it may not perhaps be -considered a digression to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or -British games, of which there were ten <i>Gurolgampau</i>, or -manly games; viz. 1. to lift up great weights; 2. running; 3. -leaping; 4. swimming; 5. wrestling; 6. riding. These six -were styled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up -persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this -last, Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included charioteering, or -the skilful driving and management of different kinds of -carriages. The other four were, 1. archery; 2. playing with -the sword and buckler; 3. playing with the Cledda deuddwrn, or -two-handed sword; 4. Chwarau ffoun ddwybig, or playing with the -two-end staff or <a name="page239"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -239</span>spear. Next to these were the ten -<i>Mabolgampau</i>, or those more peculiarly adapted to young -men; viz. 1. coursing; 2. fishing; 3. fowling; the remaining -seven were of the domestic kind; 1. Barddoniaeth, or -poetical composition; 2. Chwareu’r Delyn, or playing -upon the harp; 3. reading Welsh; 4. singing with the harp; 5. -singing between three or four, most probably in alternate -stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. drawing or painting, particularly -coats of arms; 7. heraldry. After these were four -<i>Gogampiau</i>, or minor games; viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a -game similar to that of draughts; 2. Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably -back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be derived from the -Welsh language; viz. Back, little, and Cammawn, or Gammon, -Battle; and Tawl-Burdd means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau -Ffristeal, or the game of the dice-box; in what manner it was -played is not known at present; 4. Cyweiraw Telyn, or the tuning -of the harp.</p> -<p>“After visiting these circles, the traveller may either -proceed to the top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, -near Dygyfylchi Church, not far from which, just at the foot of -Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq. In -the clefts of the rocks, above the turnpike-gate, near -Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus Aria, or white -beam-tree. Mr. Pennant observes, the Swiss procure a good -kind of ardent spirit from the berries. The summit of this -mountain seems to have been fortified by two or three walls, one -within the other; and there are still visible the remains of a -great number of huts, or small buildings, most probably at one -time the habitations of soldiers; it was, no doubt, a strong -military <a name="page240"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -240</span>post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the -Britons and Romans. The Roman road from Segontium to -Conovium must have passed near it, probably on the south side; -and this high mountain, so conspicuous and so easily -distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of link, no doubt, in -the military chain of communication between this county and -Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick (now called -Pen Dinas), a Roman encampment in the parish of Llandeiniolen, -near Caernarvon on the west, and from many fortified eminences in -the other county, on the east. The usual signals in ancient -times were fires by night, and a particular kind of flag by -day. Having examined the immense ruins of Braich y Dinas, -we now proceed along the high road, through the parish of -Llanfairfechan; and leaving that small church on an eminence, a -little to the left of the road, and on the right, Brynn y Neuadd, -an old neglected family seat, at one time the property of -Humphrey Roberts, Esq. and afterwards conveyed to the Wynnes of -Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by the marriage of his daughter to a -son of that family: we soon pass Gorddinog,” -&c.—<i>Williams</i>.</p> -<p>Pursuing a good turnpike-road from Mrs. Crawley’s, we -presently came in sight of the towers of</p> -<h3>CONWAY CASTLE,</h3> -<p>standing on a rock, so picturesquely alluded to in the Bard of -Gray.</p> -<blockquote><p>“On a rock, whose haughty brow<br /> -Frown’d o’er old Conway’s foaming flood,<br /> -Robed in a sable garb of woe,<br /> -With haggard eyes the poet stood.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/p240b.jpg"> -<img alt= -"Conwy Bridge & Castle" -title= -"Conwy Bridge & Castle" - src="images/p240s.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<p><a name="page241"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 241</span>The -castle, built by Edward I., is a magnificent fortress, in the -form of a parallelogram.</p> -<p>An air of proud sublimity, united with singular wildness, -characterises the place. The evening was far advanced, and -part of the ruins were shining with the purple glow of the -setting sun, whose remaining features stood in darkened majesty, -when we entered this monument of desolation. Passing over a -plank, originally the site of the drawbridge, we came into the -outward court, strongly defended with battlements; from thence we -examined the grand entrance of the castle, with its several -projecting abutments, similar in style to those of -Caernarvon. On the south side of the court is the grand -hall, measuring an hundred and thirty feet by thirty-two, with -eight light Gothic arches, five of which are still in good -condition. At one end is the chapel, with a large window, a -beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture. It was founded -on the solid rock, by Edward I., in the year 1284; the walls are -from eleven to fifteen feet thick: all the towers are defended by -small round turrets, projecting two or three feet over, with a -regular communication round the whole castle by galleries, on the -same plan as at Caernarvon. The steps are decayed and -broken, and the looseness of the stones rendered a footing very -insecure; but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended -the most perfect tower, and an extensive prospect presented -itself to our view. The foundation of one of the principal -towers, looking towards a small river, which here joins the -Conway, has lately given way, and torn down with it part of the -building; the remainder now hangs in an extraordinary -manner. The <a name="page242"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -242</span>whole town is enclosed with strong walls, and defended -by a number of towers, which communicate with the castle by a -gallery; there are likewise several gateways at certain -distances.</p> -<p>The ancient church next attracted our attention, but did not -detain us long, as the monuments for the Wynnes are the only -things worthy of inspection, except the following inscription, -which is engraved on a flat stone, in the nave of the church: -“Here lyeth the body of Nicholas Hookes, of Conway, Gent. -who was the 41st child of his father, William Hookes, Esq. by -Alice, his wife, and father of 27 children; who died the 20th day -of March, 1637.” Few districts in the world can, -perhaps, produce a record similar to the preceding.</p> -<p>From thence we surveyed the remains of the college, which in -the reign of King Edward I. was intended for the instruction of -youth. It is now in complete ruins: the workmanship -curious, with several sculptured arms. In this town is an -ancient house, built in the form of a quadrangle, by the Wynnes, -in the time of Queen Elizabeth, now inhabited by poor -families. The house is adorned after the fantastical -fashion of the times in which it was erected; the roof is -singularly carved, and the front decorated with the arms of -England, with several curious crests, birds, and beasts: it bears -the date of the year 1585. The arms of Elizabeth are carved -over the door, fronting the street.</p> -<p>The river Conway has been celebrated from the earliest period -of British history for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts -that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her -temple at Rome, a breast-plate, set with British <a -name="page243"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 243</span>pearls; and -other authorities go so far as to assign the desire to get -possession of these jewels, as one of the reasons of his invading -the British isles. The shell in which they are found is -called the pearl muscle, and is the same which by Linnæus -is termed Mya Margaritifera.</p> -<p>The fish, which generate these concretions, are considered in -a sickly state; and it is said that on their being squeezed, they -can and will eject them, which they occasionally do spontaneously -on the sands. I am given to understand that a very -considerable trade is carried on by an individual, very snugly, -at this very day, in pearls collected from the Conway and -adjacent coast. Some years ago Sir Robert Vaughan appeared -at court with a button and loop in his hat, set with pearls from -the Conway; and Mr. Edward Llwyd says, that the pearls found here -are as large and as well coloured as any in Great Britain.</p> -<p>“Immediately at the foot of the castle,” says a -recent traveller, <a name="citation243"></a><a -href="#footnote243" class="citation">[243]</a> “a -suspension bridge is thrown over the previously dangerous ferry, -in the erection of which great taste has been exhibited. -Castellated towers support the chains, and where the road enters -the town a toll-house, in the shape of a dilapidated tower, has -been erected, which perfectly harmonizes with the view around it, -and taken altogether, the bridge seems to be the draw-bridge of -the castle, and does not detract from the antique grandeur of the -scene. Mr. Telford is the architect of this, <a -name="page244"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 244</span>as well as -of the Menai Bridge; and though it possesses nothing of the -immense proportions, it is equally elegant and well adapted to -its situation.”</p> -<p>Edward the First made this a free borough. It is now -governed by one alderman, a recorder, coroner, water-bailiff, and -two serjeants-at-mace, chosen annually, and is a contributory -borough with Caernarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and Criccaeth, in -returning a member to parliament. Its market is on -Friday.</p> -<p>The usual route, and the one which we intended to pursue, -laying by St. Asaph and Chester, we determined first to explore -some of the beauties of the vale of Conway; and with this object -in view, took the road leading to Llanwrst: it possesses the -charming varieties of wood, water, and a richly cultivated -country, backed by mountain scenery. We soon reached Caer -Rhun, the site of the ancient Conovium of the Romans, where the -tenth legion were stationed. The late Rev. Hugh Davies -Griffith, vicar of the parish, and a gentleman well known for his -antiquarian researches, traced out here the remains of a Roman -pottery: many utensils of various sorts had previously been -found, mostly imperfect, some well designed and very -curious. Amongst other things found here, was a small -brazen circular shield, of curious workmanship, embossed, a -little more than a foot in diameter, and with a projecting pike -of wrought iron, of about four inches and a half, placed in the -centre; it had circles of brass studs, and appeared to have been -lined with leather and stuffed with hair. Numerous Roman -coins were likewise found, and near this is a hill, called Myndd -Caer Leon, or the <i>Hill of the Legion</i>. Mr. Williams -says, <a name="page245"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -245</span>“This legion was denominated Antoniana -Augusta. The XXth, stationed at Chester (Caer Lleon Gawr, -or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy), was distinguished by the name of -Vicessima Victrix: and the Second Legion, stationed at Caer Leon, -in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the title -of Augusta Britannica. There was, no doubt, a Roman road -from hence to Segontium, on the west, and to Varium or Bodvarri -and Caerwys on the east, and another probably through Dolyddelen, -to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, -Dolgelly, Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal, near -Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very -considerable remains were discovered.”</p> -<p>The next object worthy of attention is Rhaiadr Mawr, or the -Great Waterfall, about seven miles from Conway; Mr. -Bingley’s account of which is so correct and spirited, that -I shall give it verbatim:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“I ascended along a winding path, which, -after about a quarter of an hour’s walk, conducted me to -the bed of the river, near the station from whence it was to be -seen to the greatest advantage. The water, from the late -dry weather, was very inconsiderable; still, however, the scene -was highly picturesque. From the upper part two streams -descended at some distance from each other. The range of -rock, down which the water was thrown, was very wide and -extremely rude, being formed in horizontal ledges, into deep -clefts and enormous chasms. On the various lodgments of the -rocks were numerous pendant shrubs. The dark shades of the -clefts, and the irregular brilliancy of the prominent features of -the scene, <a name="page246"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -246</span>from the reflected rays of the sun, contrasted again -with the foaming of the water, were truly grand. The -colours of the rock, which were every where also very dark, were -rich and highly varied. The streams united a little above -the middle of the fall: they rushed from thence in foam over the -rocks, and, from the deep shelvings, in many places the water was -entirely hidden from me below. In addition to this, nearly -every different stratum of rock threw it into a fresh -direction. In the whole scene there was the utmost -irregularity. On the right of the cataract the enclosing -rocks were nearly perpendicular, very lofty, and crowned with -pendant foliage. Those on the left were very high and -towering, adorned on the lodgments with grass and ferns. I -should have made a drawing of this cataract, had it been possible -to have expressed it with any justice on an octavo plate; this, -however, was altogether impossible. The above description -is expressed in terms infinitely too feeble to give any correct -idea of the scene. This waterfall appeared to me by much -the most grand and picturesque of any that I have seen in North -Wales.</p> -<p>“In descending to the road, I had an extensive view -along the whole vale of Conway. It appeared from this -eminence to be much varied, and on the whole very -beautiful.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Besides this, many other waterfalls and cascades, along this -charming river, will amply repay this digression, and entice the -tourist forward to its junction with the Lledr and Machno. -Near Llanwrst, Gwydir-house and woods, and at that place the -church, and the famous bridge built by Inigo Jones, will engage -his attention. Beyond <a name="page247"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 247</span>the vale is beautiful and romantic, -far exceeding my powers of description; all that wood, water, and -the most rugged rocks and picturesque mountain scenery can do to -delight the lovers of nature, heightened by the relief of a -highly cultivated country, interspersed with gentlemen’s -seats, frequently breaking on the view, are here amply afforded -them. Proceeding up the vale, and through Gwydir woods, you -reach Bettws y Coed; thence to the new iron Waterloo Bridge over -the Conway, on the great Irish road, visit the falls of the -Conway and Machno, return to Bettws, proceed up the Lligwy to -view the Rhaidar y Wennol, or Cataract of the Swallow, which, -when it possesses its customary body of water, is truly -tremendous. In going from hence to the excellent inn at -Capel Curig, by making a circuit of about four or five miles to -the southward, you may visit Dolwyddelan Castle, the residence of -Meredith ap Jevan, before mentioned in the account of Llyn. -From Capel Curig, proceeding towards Bangor, till the road nearly -reaches the river Ogwen, you may with labour and difficulty trace -the old Roman road, from Segontium to Conovium, or, without any -risk of satiety, retread your steps by Llanwrst to Conway.</p> -<p>The trade of Conway consists in the exportation of slate and -copper from the Llandidno mines, from whence the finest specimens -of Malachite copper is brought. The town and castle of -Conway are seen to great advantage in crossing the river, which -is here about half a mile over, and at high water washes the -walls of that massy ruin: in the middle of the channel is a small -rocky island. We observed from this situation the two -castles called Bodscallan <a name="page248"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 248</span>and Dyganwy; the small remains of -the latter stand on a high rock above the river. The former -is a beautiful seat of the Mostyns.</p> -<p>Crossing the ferry we determined on exploring the Criddin, a -Commot, or Hundred of Caernarvonshire, at the extremity of which -is that noted landmark, the Great Orme’s Head. This -commot is supposed to contain some of the best arable and meadow -land in this part of the principality; the shores and cliffs -likewise afford excellent limestone, and pebbles for paving; both -of which are shipped in large quantities for Liverpool and other -markets. Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, <i>The Fort of the -Conway</i>, was once the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of -North Wales, who here held his court. The following -anecdote of which, as connected with Taliesin, the British Bard, -I shall give the heads of from Mr. Bingley:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Gwyddno Garanhir, brother of Maelgwyn, who -likewise resided in the neighbourhood, had near his residence a -weir, called Gored Wyddno, <i>Gwyddno’s Weir</i>, which is -even yet known by the same name, and belongs to Sir Thomas -Mostyn, as owner of the house of Bodscallon. Elphin, the -son of Gwyddno, was an extravagant youth; and at one time he had -so greatly exhausted his finances, that he was compelled, as a -temporary relief, to ask his father the benefit of the weir for a -single night. The request was complied with, but not a -single fish was caught. <a name="citation248"></a><a -href="#footnote248" class="citation">[248]</a> A leathern -basket was however taken up, <a name="page249"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 249</span>which, on examination, was found to -contain a child. This was an unfortunate circumstance to -one so much in want of a successful tide. Elphin had, -however, the humanity to direct that the child should be taken -care of, and that no expense should be spared in his -education. The youth, who was named Taliesin, was -introduced by Elphin at his father’s court; and his first -step towards fame was in reciting there a poem containing the -history of his life, called Hanes Taliesin. Maelgwyn -Gwynedd was greatly surprised at his talent, and himself became -afterwards his patron. Some time after this a dispute took -place at Diganwy, betwixt Elphin and his father, of so serious a -nature, as to cause the former to be thrown into prison. -His attentions to Taliesin now proved of the utmost importance to -him. The bard addressed to the prince a poem on his patron, -which excited his commiseration, and caused him to issue an -immediate order for Elphin’s release. Taliesin -continued to receive, throughout the whole of his life, the -attentions, the admirations, and the applause which his talents -justly merited; and after his death he was honoured with the -appellation of <i>The Prince of the British Bards</i>.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Gloddaith woods particularly, and most part of this small -district, afford considerable amusement to the botanist; as will -the libraries of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. at Gloddaith and -Bodysgallen, to the antiquarian and the historian. The -former of these seats was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; -since which period both mansion and furniture have experienced -but trifling alterations.</p> -<p>The tremendous precipice on the west side of the Ormshead <a -name="page250"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 250</span>is worthy -of a visit. The sea view is very extensive, and generally -enlivened by the passing of Liverpool shipping; you likewise -command a view of the Isle of Man, and occasionally views of the -Irish, Lancashire, and the distant haze of the Scottish -coast. The sea birds frequent these cliffs and shores in -great abundance, more particularly gulls, razor-bills, -guillemots, corvorants, herons, and the peregrine falcon; the -latter of which, in the days of falconry, was held in such high -estimation, that the celebrated Lord Burleigh sent a letter of -thanks for a present of a cast of hawks from this place to an -ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s. Unprotected by any -shelter, on the summit of the high promontory, stands the small -church of Llandudno, but little famous for any thing but its -singular situation, and its service as a beacon. Proceeding -along the mail-road, with the sea on our left, and low rocks on -our right, nothing particular attracted our attention, till in -descending a hill about two miles from the neat bathing-town -of</p> -<h3>ABERGELE,</h3> -<p>we observed, on our right, two immense caverns, about half way -up the mountain; they are called Cavern-arogo, and run four or -five hundred yards into the ground; but their real extent has -never been ascertained with accuracy. From these mountains -vast quantities of lime are shipped for Liverpool and many parts -of England.</p> -<p>Abergele, situate on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, is a small -neat town of one street, resorted to in the summer season for -bathing. The sands afford excellent walking; in the evening -we lingered on the beach for a considerable <a -name="page251"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 251</span>time, -enjoying the calm but cheerful beauty of nature, and inhaling the -pure sea-breeze—for</p> -<blockquote><p>. . . “The wind was hush’d;<br /> -And to the beach each slowly-lifted wave,<br /> -Creeping with silver-curl, just kiss’d the shore,<br /> -And slept in silence.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Mason’s -Garden</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>With pleasure mixed with reverential awe, we trod Rhuddlan -Marsh, so celebrated in the annals of history. Here the -ill-fated Richard II. was betrayed into the hands of Bolingbroke, -and taken prisoner to Flint: here Offa, King of Mercia, met his -untimely death: here the Welsh, under the command of Caradoc, in -the year 795, were defeated in a conflict with the Saxons, and -their leader slain in the action. This memorable and tragic -event is handed down to posterity by an ancient celebrated and -affecting ballad, called Morva Rhuddlan, or the Marsh of -Rhuddlan, composed by the bards on the death of Prince -Caradoc.</p> -<p>The ground we trod, connected with so many events, revived in -our minds the memory of past ages; a series of historical events -came to our recollection; events that are now so distant, as -almost to be obliterated from the page of history. Passing -over a bridge of two arches, thrown over the river Clwyd, we -entered</p> -<h3>RHUDDLAN,</h3> -<p>once the largest and most respectable town in North -Wales. Walking over the ruins of the castle, in which -Edward I. kept three Christmases, I recurred, by a natural <a -name="page252"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 252</span>association -of ideas, to the times when the parliament-house, the halls, and -courts, echoed with the voices of those, who have been long since -swept from the earth by the unerring hand of death. One -solitary Gothic window is now only remaining to distinguish the -old parliament-house, where King Edward the First instituted that -famous code of laws, under the title of the statute of Rhuddlan, -from a neighbouring barn: and what once contained the parliament -of England, now contains nothing but bark for the supply of a -tan-yard.</p> -<p>The old castle is built of red stone; it consists of a square -area, strongly fortified with a wall. This court we entered -through the grand gateway, between two round towers: the opposite -side corresponds. The whole is encircled by a deep -entrenchment faced with stone on the river side, with two square -towers, one of which still remains.</p> -<p>“The Bishop of St. Asaph,” says Mr. Evans, -“distributes among the farmers of the parish of Rhyddlan, -five guineas for the best crop of turnips; and three guineas for -the best crop of wheat upon a fallow, manured only with lime -compost. All the competitors partake of a feast on the day -of decision; and the victors, beside their premiums, have the -honourable distinction of being crowned with the garland of -Ceres, by some of the ladies present.” This stimulus -has had great effect in exciting a spirit of improvement.</p> -<p>The road from hence to</p> -<h3>ST. ASAPH,</h3> -<p>affords a most rich and beautiful walk, extending along <a -name="page253"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 253</span>the -celebrated vale of Clwyd. This rich tract of land, called -the Eden of North Wales, extends in length about twenty-five -miles, and in breadth about eight. The neighbourhood of -Ruthin affords the best view of this vale. Though it is by -no means so interesting and romantic as the vale of Glamorgan, -yet its high cultivation, and the picturesque, but moderate -height of the hills, rising on each side of the river Clwyd, -renders the scenery pleasing: its chief produce is corn. -Both these vales claim the attention of the traveller; and both -have to boast of particular beauties. One mile from St. -Asaph we passed, on our right, the elegant seat of Sir Edward -Lloyd. We still followed the banks of the Clwyd; and at the -farthest extremity a light elegant bridge of seven arches, with -the dark tower of St. Asaph’s cathedral rising on an -eminence just over it, gave a picturesque effect to the whole -scenery.</p> -<p>The town itself is built on a hill, in one straight line, with -a few neat houses. The cathedral naturally demands -attention: the inside is remarkably neat and elegant, entirely -Gothic, with the ceiling of chesnut, and open ribs like the -skeleton of a ship. The monument of David ap Owen, bishop -of this diocese, was particularly pointed out to us. The -bishop’s palace has been entirely rebuilt by the present -diocesan. The choir consists of a bishop, dean, six canons, -seven prebends, and four vicars. There are no monuments in -the churchyard, and few of any importance within its venerable -walls.</p> -<p>St. Asaph receives its derivation from its patron, who -established a bishop’s see here, in the year 590: but in <a -name="page254"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 254</span>British it -is named Llan-Elwy, on account of the conflux of the Elwy with -the Clwyd. It is singular, that the cathedral is not used -as a parish church, as all the other Welsh cathedrals are; and -that the bishop’s jurisdiction extends over no entire -county, but includes part of Flintshire, Denbighshire, -Montgomeryshire, Merionethshire, and Shropshire.</p> -<p>From St. Asaph to Holywell the distance is about ten -miles. The first part of the road continuing through the -vale of Clwyd, affords prospects of agricultural riches rarely -excelled; the latter part is rocky and rugged, but -pleasant. On the one side you enjoy the distant view of -Denbigh, with its ancient castle fast mouldering to decay, and on -the other that of Rhyddlan, backed by the distant sea view. -The whole of this tract of country abounds in lead-mines and -calamine. Between this road and the sea stands Downing, -late the residence of the celebrated Mr. Pennant, to whom the -world was so much indebted for his numerous and laborious -literary publications.</p> -<p>On the summit of a lofty hill called Carreg, in the parish of -Whitford, about two miles to the left of the road, is an ancient -circular building, which Mr. Pennant believed to have been a -Roman pharos, constructed to assist in the navigating the -difficult channel of Seteia Portus to and from Deva. This -appears the more probable, as it still forms a prominent -landmark, highly useful to the small Welsh sloops and coasting -vessels, which in fine weather drop along with the tides from the -lime-rocks, between Llandrillo and Llanddulas, to Parkgate, -Liverpool, &c.; in one of which I witnessed the rising sun -just as we opened the rich and beautiful vale of <a -name="page255"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -255</span>Clwyd;—a scene so pre-eminently fine and -impressive, that the lapse of five-and-twenty years has not -effaced it from, or weakened it in, my recollection.</p> -<h3>HOLYWELL</h3> -<p>is a place of considerable trade and bustle, with easy access -to the sea. It is pleasantly situated on the side of a -hill, possessing many good houses; but is chiefly famous for its -well, which although only little better than a mile from the sea, -furnishes a sufficiency of water to work eleven mills and -factories, viz. one corn mill, four cotton mills, and six copper -and brass mills and forges.</p> -<p>The quantity of water thrown up is, on an accurate -calculation, proved to exceed eighty-four hogsheads in a -minute. It is covered by a small Gothic building, the -canopy of which is of most delicate workmanship. For its -origin, miracles, &c. I must refer the reader to the Life of -St. Winifred, or some of the numerous authorities that have -particularized them: suffice it to say, that the devotees of this -saint (whose head was cut off, and so effectually replaced on her -shoulders, that she survived it fifteen years) were very -numerous; and in the last age the well was so noted, that, -according to Mr. Pennant, “the prince, who lost three -kingdoms for a mass, payed his respects, on the 29th of August, -1686, to our saint, and received as a reward a present of the -very shift in which his great grandmother, Mary Queen of Scots, -lost her head.”</p> -<p>“The church being situated below the town, the sound of -the bell can be heard but a short distance; to summon the -inhabitants to their devotions, therefore, a person <a -name="page256"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 256</span>parades the -town with a large bell, suspended from his neck.” <a -name="citation256a"></a><a href="#footnote256a" -class="citation">[256a]</a></p> -<p>The supply of water from this well is scarcely ever perceived -to vary; and it has never been known to be frozen, a circumstance -of far greater importance than its miraculous qualities.</p> -<p>The stage from Holywell to Flint is only six miles, and, like -Flint itself, affords little subject for observation or -remark.</p> -<h3>FLINT</h3> -<p>is a small market town, created a free borough in the reign of -Philip and Mary, and confirmed in the 12th of William III. -It, in conjunction with Caerwys, Rhyddlan, Caergwrle, and -Overton, sends a member to parliament, elected by such -inhabitants as pay parochial taxes. The castle, begun by -Henry II., and finished by Edward I., stands upon a rock, in a -marsh upon the south bank of the Dee; the channel of which once -ran in considerable depth under its walls, which, even at the -present day, are washed at high tides. By whom, and when it -was founded, is uncertain. It is chiefly famous for being -the place where Edward II. received his obnoxious favourite, -Piers Gaveston, on his return from banishment; and where Percy, -Earl of Northumberland, surrendered Richard the Second into the -hands of the Duke of Lancaster. “When Richard arrived -at Flint,” says the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and -Sublimities of Nature, <a name="citation256b"></a><a -href="#footnote256b" class="citation">[256b]</a> “he said -to the Duke of Lancaster, afterwards Henry the Fourth, -‘Cousin of Lancaster, you are welcome.’ -‘My Lord <a name="page257"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -257</span>the King,’ returned the Duke, bowing three times -to the ground, ‘I am arrived sooner than you appointed me; -because the common report of your people reached me, that you -have, for one and twenty years, governed them rigorously, and -with which they are by no means satisfied. It is my desire, -if God be willing, to assist you to govern them better for the -future.’ ‘Fair cousin,’ returned the -wounded monarch, assuming an air of cheerfulness, ‘Fair -cousin, since it pleases you, it pleases me also.’ -The King and the Duke soon after made their entry into London, -which Shakspeare has described so beautifully. Richard -resigned his crown; and, as a recompence, was soon after murdered -in Pontefract castle.” In the reign of Charles the -First, the castle was repaired by Sir Roger Mostyn, and sustained -a lengthened siege, till all the provisions were exhausted, when -it made an honourable surrender in December 1646: it, with -Hawarden and other castles, was dismantled by order of -Parliament. In proceeding to Chester, you regain the high -road at Northop: three miles and a half beyond which, to the -left, about a quarter of a mile from the road, on the edge of a -glen, and surrounded by a wood, are to be traced the remains of -Euloe Castle, a small fortress: the proprietor of which, named -Howell, was entitled by ancient custom to give the badge of a -silver harp to the best harper in North Wales. But it is -chiefly remarkable for the defeat which Henry the Second received -in the wood in its vicinity, from David and Conan, the two sons -of Owen Gwynedd. By stratagem, they drew the English army -into a narrow pass betwixt the hills; when attacking its front, -flanks, and rear, they routed it with the most <a -name="page258"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 258</span>dreadful -slaughter. Regaining the road, you soon reach Hawarden, a -small neat town, chiefly remarkable for the ruins of its ancient -castle, so frequently mentioned in history: its remains are to be -traced in the grounds of Lady Glynne, at the east end of the -town; little now remains of them, but, from the eminence on which -they stand, you command a fine view of the Dee and the county of -Chester.</p> -<h3>CHESTER,</h3> -<p>Carlisle, and Conway, are the only three British towns or -cities that have preserved their ancient walls anyways -entire. Those of Chester are nearly two miles in -circumference, and sufficiently broad to afford room for two -persons to walk abreast; for this purpose they are now kept in -repair, affording an agreeable lounge, fresh air, and, from the -different sides, varied and extensive views.</p> -<p>The rows are another peculiarity belonging to Chester: the -streets, which are much broader than those of old towns or cities -generally, are considerably excavated: on this lower level are -the warehouses, kitchens, &c. and on the first floor, with -galleries, or rows as they are termed, in the front, are the -shops. These galleries afford a covered walk for foot -passengers: they are inconvenient, particularly for ladies, as at -every crossing you have to descend and ascend the different -steps: they give an air of great singularity to the city.</p> -<p>Chester was formerly termed Caerleon Gawr, or Vawr, and was, -during the time of the Romans, the station of the twentieth -legion. Numerous Roman antiquities have been found here, -such as altars, &c. and a <i>hypocaust</i>, or <a -name="page259"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 259</span>furnace for -heating a sudatorium, was a short time back to be seen at the -Feathers Inn.</p> -<p>The castle is situate at the north-west extremity of the -city. It was founded by Hugh Lupus, in the reign of William -the Conqueror, and has within these few years undergone -considerable alterations. In it was confined the beautiful, -but unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, after her defeat at -Langside.</p> -<p>The cathedral is a heavy irregular pile of building, affording -little either within or without worthy of observation. It -is built of bad stone, on which the workmanship bestowed was -quite good enough: it stands on the site of the ancient Abbey of -St. Werburgh. The altar-piece is a fine specimen of -tapestry, representing the history of Elymas the sorcerer, taken -from one of the Cartoons of Raphael.</p> -<p>The bishop’s palace, in the Abbey Court, is a handsome -modern stone building. The exchange, or town hall, is an -elegant and useful fabric, standing in the middle of the -city. It is supported on columns, and contains, as well as -the common hall, assembly rooms, with every convenience for the -corporation meetings and entertainments. The shire hall is -a handsome stone building, with one of the most complete and -elegant court rooms in the kingdom. The new gaol is -likewise a well-constructed edifice, having five yards, and all -the necessary conveniences for a separation of prisoners.</p> -<p>Anxious to view the superb seat of the Earl of Grosvenor, -Eaton Hall, we did not afford that time to examine this ancient -city which it merited; it will not, therefore, be right for the -tourist to be satisfied with this as a guide <a -name="page260"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 260</span>to its -antiquities, but rather to purchase the local one, which will -afford every information.</p> -<h3>EATON HALL,</h3> -<p>the seat of Earl Grosvenor, recently erected by the present -noble earl, is a splendid Gothic mansion, standing on the site of -the ancient fabric, in an extensive park, surrounded with fine -and venerable timber. The basement of the ancient pile has -been preserved, but the superstructure has been enlarged to -double the original dimensions. The style of architecture -is Gothic: but it is proper to observe, that the cathedral -Gothic, of the age of Edward the Third, as exhibited in -York-Minster, the church of Newark-upon-Trent, and other -celebrated structures in England, is chiefly imitated, especially -on the outside; though Mr. Porden, the architect, has not -scrupled to avail himself of the low Tudor arch, and the forms of -any other age that suited his purpose, which was to adapt the -rich variety of our ancient ecclesiastical architecture to modern -domestic convenience. The same style prevails through the -whole of the interior, but more or less embellished, to suit the -uses of the apartments respectively. Round the turrets, and -in various parts of the balustrades, are Gothic shields, charged -in relievo with the armorial bearings of the Grosvenor family, -and of other ancient families, that by intermarriages the -Grosvenors are entitled to quarter with their own. The -windows, which are rich in tracery, are of iron, cast from models -in wood by the iron-founders of Chester, and are, perhaps, the -first that have been made of that material, moulded on both sides -and grooved to receive the <a name="page261"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 261</span>glass. The walls, balustrades, -battlements, and pinnacles, are of stone, brought by -land-carriage about sixteen miles, from quarries near -Fordsham. It is of a light and beautiful colour, which -harmonizes with the hues of nature in the landscape.</p> -<p>The park is flat, but the distant country is elevated and -various. To the west the mountains of Wales, with -Moel-Famma, rise directly in front; and to the south and east the -hills of Shropshire and Cheshire, with that remarkable knowl on -which Beeston Castle is situated. The city of Chester lies -on the north. From various parts of the park and grounds -this noble mansion is seen to much better advantage than by the -regular approaches from Chester, &c.</p> -<p>“The entrance to the house is in the middle of the west -front, under a vaulted portico, which admits a carriage to the -steps that lead to the hall, a spacious and lofty room, occupying -the height of two stories, with a vaulted ceiling, embellished -with the Grosvenor arms, &c. in the knots that cover the -junction of the ribs. The pavement is of variegated marbles -in Gothic compartments. On each of the sides is an -ornamented marble chimney-piece, and four niches with pedestals -and canopies. The niches, it is probable, will hereafter be -filled with statues, and the walls covered with historical -paintings; for which no family can furnish more ample materials, -as the heads of it were engaged in most of the military -transactions of the English in the chivalrous ages. At the -end of the hall, a screen of five arches supports a gallery, that -connects the bed-chambers on the north side of the house with -those on the south, which are separated <a -name="page262"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 262</span>by the -elevation of the hall. Under this gallery, two open arches -to the right and left conduct to the grand staircase, the state -bed-room, and the second staircase; and opposite to the door of -the hall is the entrance to the saloon. The grand staircase -is highly ornamented with niches and canopies, and with tracery -under the landings, and, in the principal ceiling, which is -crowned with a double sky-light of various-coloured glass. -The steps of the second staircase, with its tracery and -balustrade, are all of cast-iron. The state bed-room is -lighted by two painted windows, with tracery and armorial -bearings, and contains a magnificent bed. On entering the -saloon, the eye is struck with the splendour of three lofty -painted windows, which contain, in six divisions, the portraits -of the Conqueror’s nephew, Gilbert le Grosvenor, the -founder of the Grosvenor family, and his lady; of William the -Conqueror, with whom Gilbert came into England; the Bishop of -Bayeux, uncle to the Conqueror; the heiress of the house of -Eaton; and Sir Robert le Grosvenor; who distinguished himself in -the wars of Edward the Third, and more particularly by his legal -contest with Sir Richard le Scroope, for the family -arms—<i>azure</i>, <i>one bend</i>, <i>or</i>; in which Sir -Richard gained his point. Sir Robert being obliged to add -to them <i>un bordure argent</i>—objecting to which, he was -allowed to bear the arms of his relation, Hugh Lupus, first Earl -of Chester, <i>azure</i>, <i>a garbe</i>, <i>or</i>, which is the -family coat to this day. These windows are from cartoons by -Mr. Tresham and others. The saloon is a square of thirty -feet, formed into an octagon by arches across the angles, which -give the vaultings a beautiful form. The chimney-piece is -of statuary marble, and <a name="page263"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 263</span>opposite to it is an organ, both -richly decorated. On the left of the saloon is an -ante-room, that leads to the dining-room, and on the right -another that leads to the drawing-room, both decorated, but in a -subordinate degree to the state rooms, with which they -communicate. The windows of these rooms are glazed with a -light mosaic tracery, and exhibit the portraits of the six earls -of Chester, who, after Hugh Lupus, governed Cheshire as a county -palatine, till Henry the Third bestowed the title on his son -Edward; since which time the eldest sons of the kings of England -have always been Earls of Chester.</p> -<p>“The dining-room, situated at the northern extremity of -the east front, is about fifty feet long, and thirty feet wide, -exclusive of a bow containing five arched windows; the opening of -which is thirty feet. In the middle window is the portrait -of Hugh Lupus. This portrait, with the six Earls of Chester -in the ante-room windows, are the work of Messrs. Davenport, of -Staffordshire, from cartoons by Mr. Singleton. The ceiling -is of bold and rich tracery, with coats of arms in proper -colours, and a large ornamented pendant for a chandelier. -At the end, opposite to the entrance, is an arched recess, -containing the sideboard, and on each side of it is a large -niche, with its pedestal and canopy. The opposite end of -the room has a similar recess, under which is the door from the -ante-room, and similar niches on each side of it. Other -niches and canopies, of smaller size, ornament the jambs of the -arched recess and the bow.</p> -<p>“The drawing-room, which is at the southern extremity of -the east front, is of the same form and dimensions <a -name="page264"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 264</span>as the -dining-room; with the addition of a large window that looks to -the south, and commands a view of the groves and fertile meadows -of Eaton, with the village and spire of Oldford above them. -All the windows of this room are adorned with heads and figures -of the ancestors of the family; among which are the portraits of -the present Earl and Countess, in a beautiful brown -<i>chiaro-oscuro</i>, executed by Messrs. Bachelor and Silk, of -Newman-street, and do credit to the talents of those ingenious -artists. The niches, canopies, and other ornaments, are the -same in situation as those of the dining-room, but of a lighter -and richer design. The ceiling is a piece of embroidery of -the nicest materials and workmanship; where all the coats borne -by the Grosvenor family are blazoned in their proper colours, and -also the arms of Egerton, Earl of Wilton, the father of the -present Countess Grosvenor. The arms of Egerton appear in -various parts of the house, and will mark the date of this fabric -to future antiquaries, if all other memorials should be forgotten -or destroyed. The colour of the saloon is blue, the ante -dining-room of light blue, the dining-room of a bright scarlet, -the ante drawing-room is hung with light blue satin, the -drawing-room with crimson velvet: the curtains and draperies are -of crimson and gold satin, with gold tassels and fringes, -disposed in a striking and picturesque manner by Messrs. Gillow, -under the direction of Joseph Kay, Esq. architect to the -post-office. All the other furniture of these apartments is -the work of the same artificers, and appropriate to the style of -the house. The vistas from the dining-room, through the <a -name="page265"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 265</span>two -ante-rooms, and the saloon to the south window of the -drawing-room, and in the opposite direction from the drawing-room -to the dining-room, terminating with the splendidly-furnished -sideboard of plate, perhaps cannot be exceeded in novelty and -variety by any thing of the kind in England.</p> -<p>“The library is in the centre of the south front. -The ceiling and the large bow-window, with their ornaments, are -in the same style as the rooms already described, but less -rich. The book-cases are of English oak, with arches of -tracery, buttresses, pinnacles, and battlements. The -sitting-room of the Countess is the only room on this floor with -square-headed windows and a flat ceiling, and is an apartment of -singular beauty.</p> -<p>“The middle window of the saloon opens to a vaulted -cloister, occupying the space between the dining and -drawing-rooms, in the east front, which affords a sheltered walk -in all weathers. A flight of steps leads from the cloister -to a spacious terrace, three hundred and fifty or sixty feet -long, laid out in gravel walks and beds of flowers; from whence -other steps at each end and in the middle descend to the garden -and pleasure grounds, which are disposed with much taste. -The view from the terrace is rich and various.</p> -<p>“Our limits will not admit of a particular description -of the offices and stables, though both are deserving of -attention. The latter surround a court of 160 feet by 100, -and are decorated with battlements and turrets, and a clock -tower, supported by flying buttresses, in a style of Gothic -architecture plainer than that of the house.</p> -<p>“Eaton Hall and the buildings here described, with <a -name="page266"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 266</span>their -furniture, were designed by and executed under the direction of -Mr. Porden, of Berners-street.” <a -name="citation266"></a><a href="#footnote266" -class="citation">[266]</a></p> -<p>Having been highly gratified with the inspection of this noble -edifice and grounds, we returned to Chester by the side of the -Dee, a pleasant walk of about three miles; amply prepared to do -justice to the hospitable board of a kind friend. Finding -but little conversation to be obtained from us, but on the -subject of Eaton Hall, he kindly furnished us with the preceding -account, which he assured us had been corrected, and was the best -extant.</p> -<p>Hugh Lupus, before spoken of, was appointed by William the -Conqueror, first Earl of Chester; which was erected into a county -palatine, enjoying a sovereign jurisdiction, having parliaments -and distinct courts of law. There is still kept in the -British Museum the identical sword with which Lupus was invested -with his dignity; by virtue of which the Earls of Chester were -created sword-bearers of England, and as such were accustomed to -officiate at the coronation of the kings of England. On the -blade of this sword is the following inscription—<i>Hugo -comes Cestriæ</i>.</p> -<p>Chester is famed for the elegant manners of its inhabitants; -and no city in the kingdom can, I believe, boast of more polished -or agreeable society. Our regret at leaving it was so -great, that I should recommend the tourist who carries with him -letters of introduction to <a name="page267"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 267</span>Chester, to make arrangement for -three or four days or a week’s stay at this engaging -place.</p> -<p>From Chester to Mold there is but little worthy of -remark. The distance is about twelve miles: part of the -road lies over an extensive flat, called Saltney, a rich and -well-cultivated tract of country. Mold is a small neat -town, situate in a pleasant valley, surrounded by gentle -acclivities: here the assizes for the county of Flint are -held. It formerly possessed a strong castle on the north -side, built on a mount called the Baily-Hill, of which but few -vestiges are now remaining: it is famed in history for the sieges -it sustained. The church is a handsome structure, worthy of -attention, built in the reign of Henry the Seventh, and contains -some fine monuments.</p> -<p>In the vicinity of Mold are large cotton spinning-mills, -belonging to a company at Manchester. The two Leeswoods, -one the residence of the Rev. Hope Wynne Eyton, the other of Mr. -Garnor, formerly of Sir George Wynne, are more remarkable for the -gardens, grounds, and more particularly the beautiful iron gates -at the entrance of the lawn of the latter, than for size and -architecture.</p> -<p>Tower, the residence of the dowager Mrs. Wardle, is a specimen -of the ancient <i>border-houses</i> on the confines of Wales and -Scotland. It is a square tower, consisting of three -stories: in the lower story there still remains a staple in the -ceiling—a memorial of the rudeness of the times. -During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, this -place was inhabited by Reinallt ap Gryffydd Bleyddyn; one of the -six gallant captains who defended Harlech Castle on the part of -Henry the Sixth. He and his people were in continual feud -with the citizens <a name="page268"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -268</span>of Chester. In 1465, a considerable number of the -latter came to Mold fair. A fray ensued between the two -parties, and dreadful slaughter was made on both sides. -Reinallt, however, got the victory, taking prisoner Robert Bryne -or Browne, Mayor of Chester, who, in his private capacity as a -draper, had attended the fair; whom he led to this tower, and -hung on the staple in his great hall. About a mile -north-west of the town is Maes Garmon, famous for the celebrated -battle of the Victoria Alleluiatica; in which the Britons, under -the two bishops, Germanus and Lupus, in Easter week, 448, -defeated and destroyed the Picts and Saxons. Germanus, -having previously directed his soldiers to repeat loudly and -generally the word he should give, he at the proper time -pronounced <i>Alleluja</i>! The whole army caught the -sacred sound; which they repeated with such energy, that the -mountains echoed the religious exultation; and both combined to -strike such terror into the invading foe, that he fled in the -utmost consternation: numbers fell by the sword, and as many -perished in the adjacent river. This event is commemorated -by the Hallelujah Monument, erected by the late Nehemiah -Griffith, Esq. of Rhual. Mold has two inns, the Black Lion -and Griffin: its market is on a Saturday.</p> -<p>From Mold to Denbigh the distance is about sixteen miles and a -half. On the left of the road is Kilken, visited on account -of the beautiful carved roof of its church, brought from -Basingwerk Abbey, on the dissolution of that house. Above -it, on the summit of Moel Famma, is the monument, erected by the -inhabitants of the counties of Flint and Denbigh, in -commemoration of his late <a name="page269"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 269</span>Majesty, King George the Third, -having completed the fiftieth year of his reign. The column -was designed by Mr. Harrison, of Lancaster, the architect of -Chester Castle, &c. Under the column were deposited in -a vase numerous coins, illustrative of this memorable -reign. Lord Kenyon laid the first stone on the 25th of -October, 1810. In the neighbourhood of Kilken are numerous -rich lead mines and other works; amongst which, Pen y fron, -belonging to Mr. Ingleby, and Llyn y Pandu, held under Lord -Grosvenor, by the late John Wilkinson, Esq., are amongst the -richest for their veins, these being from four to six feet thick; -but the great bodies of water from which they have to free these -mines, by means of powerful steam engines, are great drawbacks -upon their profits.</p> -<p>Moel Arthur, another portion of the Clwydian Hills, has on the -top of it the remains of a fortified British camp, having two -very deep fossæ, with corresponding valla, on the -approachable sides; and on the precipitous one is a smooth -terrace, apparently levelled by art, for exercising the -troops.</p> -<p>Penbedw Hall, the seat of Mr. Williams, is a handsome -object. On the left of the road, at a small distance from -the house, is a carnedd or tumulus, and the remains of a -Druidical circle.</p> -<p>Bodfari is by some conjectured to be the Varis of Antoninus; -but on this point antiquaries and historians are not agreed, -others believing Caerwys to have been that station.</p> -<p>Bachegraig is a most singularly-constructed house, built by -Sir Richard Clough, who served his apprenticeship to Sir Thomas -Gresham; and having acquired a <a name="page270"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 270</span>great fortune by trade, contributed -liberally, like his master, towards the building of the Royal -Exchange. The house consists of a kind of centre and three -sides, which form a quadrangle, enclosing a square area or -court. The principal part comprises a hall, with an -adjoining parlour of large dimensions; and the other parts of the -building are carried up to the unusual height of six stories, -terminating with a cupola. We from hence turned back to</p> -<h3>CAERWYS,</h3> -<p>which lies to the right of the road. It was formerly a -place of much consequence, at which the assizes for the county of -Flint were held, as were likewise a species of British Olympics, -it being the seat of the “Eisteddfod,” or Sessions of -the Bards and Minstrels; the grand theatre where, in honourable -contention, they tried their skill, poured forth their -extemporaneous effusions, awaked their harps to melody,</p> -<blockquote><p>“And gave to rapture all the trembling -strings.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Under the British princes, the bards and minstrels were -associated in corporate, or rather collegiate bodies; into which -none were admitted but such as had given proof of their skill in -the respective sciences before proper judges, duly appointed by -royal commission. And although the institution is now -dissolved, and the character officially no more, yet those who, -“born with music in their souls, <i>that</i> wish to feast -on raptures ever new,” will consentaneously say,</p> -<blockquote><p><a name="page271"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -271</span>“But hail ye mighty masters of the lay,<br /> -Nature’s true sons, the friends of man and truth!<br /> -Whose song, sublimely sweet, serenely gay,<br /> -Amused my childhood, and inform’d my youth.<br /> -O let your spirit still my bosom soothe,<br /> -Inspire my dreams, and my wild wanderings guide!<br /> -Your voice each rugged path of life can smooth;<br /> -For well I know, wherever ye reside,<br /> -There harmony, and peace, and innocence abide.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Beattie’s -Minstrel</span>.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The distance from Caerwys to Denbigh is about ten miles. -You pass Lleweni Hall, formerly occupied by the Hon. Thomas -Fitzmaurice, uncle to the Marquis of Lansdowne, brother to the -Earl of Shelburne, and father of the late noble possessor. -Mr. Fitzmaurice used here to bleach the cloths made on his -estates in Ireland. He travelled to Chester in his coach -and six, and when there stood behind a counter selling -cloth. He lived with the affected humility of a tradesman, -and the pomp of a lord: his conduct was singular, but his motives -were good.</p> -<h3>DENBIGH,</h3> -<p>situated nearly in the centre of the vale of Clwyd, is a -well-built town, standing on the declivity of a hill. A -large manufactory of shoes and gloves is here carried on, and -annually supplies London with a vast quantity. The ruins of -the Castle, still remaining on a rock commanding the town, are -too celebrated in history, and too cruelly shattered by the -ravages of war, to be passed unnoticed. The principal -entrance forms a fine Gothic arch, with the statue of King Edward -the First, its founder, above it, in an elegant niche, curiously -carved, encircled with a square <a name="page272"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 272</span>stone frame. No part of this -castle is perfect; but the huge thick fragments, which are -scattered in the most extraordinary and fantastical manner, seem -to tell its former magnificence; and a present view of things, -such as they are, with a retrospect of what they originally were, -spreads a gloom over the mind, and interrupts the pleasure of -contemplation; yet still the singular character of this ruin is -particularly interesting. Masses of wall still remain, the -proud effigies of sinking greatness; and the shattered tower -seems to nod at every murmur of the blast, and menace the -observer with immediate annihilation. Amongst these ruins -we lingered till the whole was silvered by the pale rays of the -moon. To form a conjecture on the extent of its apartments -is now impossible; but it is thus described by Leland in his -<i>Itinerary</i>.</p> -<p>“The castelle is a very large thinge, and hath many -toures in it; but the body of the work was never finischid. -The gate-house is a mervelus strong and great peace of worke, but -the fastigia of it were never finischid. If they had beene, -it might have beene counted among the most memorable peaces of -workys in England. It hath dyverse wardes and dyverse -portcolicis. On the front of the gate is set the image of -Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, in his stately long robes. -There is a nother very high towre, and large, in the castelle, -caullid the Redde Towre. Sum say, that the Earl of -Lincoln’s sunne fell into the castelle welle, and there -died; wherapon he never passid to finisch the castelle. -King Edward the Fourth was besiegid in Denbigh castelle, and ther -it was pactid betwene King Henry’s men and hym that he <a -name="page273"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 273</span>should with -life departe the reaulme, never to returne. If they had -taken King Edwarde there debellatum fuisset.” After -the restoration of Charles II. it was blown up by gunpowder.</p> -<p>The parish church stands within the walls of the original -town. Below the castle are the fragments of an old church, -which, for particular reasons, that cannot now be ascertained, -was never finished: it contains nine windows on two sides, with a -large and handsome one on the east.</p> -<p>In this town was born the famous Sir Hugh Myddleton. The -market is held on a Wednesday: its distance from London, through -Mold, is 218 miles.</p> -<p>In conjunction with Ruthin and Holt, it sends a member to -Parliament. The principal inns are the Bull and the -Crown.</p> -<p>The vale of Clwyd still retains the character of luxuriant -fertility. About two miles from hence, in our way to</p> -<h3>RUTHIN,</h3> -<p>“Denbigh, fair empress of the vale,” with its -tottering towers, formed a most beautiful landscape; whilst the -neat little hamlet of Whitchurch peeped from among the pomp of -groves.</p> -<p>At the small village of St. Fynnon St. Dyfnog, this curious -inscription over a door,</p> -<blockquote><p>“Near this place, within a vault,<br /> - There is such liquor fix’d,<br /> -You’ll say that water, hops, and malt,<br /> - Were never better mix’d;”</p> -</blockquote> -<p><a name="page274"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -274</span>invited the “weary-way wanderer” to partake -of the <i>good things</i> within. This inclined us to be -better acquainted with the author of this <i>extraordinary</i> -stanza; and we entreated the landlord to be our director to the -much-esteemed well of St. Dyfnog. Passing through the -church-yard, and from thence through the passage of an -alms-house, we reached a plantation of trees, with a broad gravel -walk, almost concealed from day’s garish light by the thick -foliage. This brought us to the fountain, enclosed in an -angular wall, which forms a bath of considerable size; and so</p> -<blockquote><p>—“far retired<br /> -Among the windings of a woody vale,<br /> -By solitude and deep surrounding shades,<br /> -But more by bashful modesty, conceal’d,”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>that the “lovely young Lavinia” might here plunge -into the flood, secure from the intrusion of Palemon. Many -wonderful qualities are attributed to this fountain; but it is -more particularly celebrated for the cure of the rheumatism; the -water has no peculiar taste. We returned by a subterraneous -path under the road, which led to the pleasure grounds adjoining -the seat of Major Wylyn.</p> -<p>Several seats were beautifully dispersed on each side of the -vale; among which Lord Bagot’s and Lord Kirkwall’s -formed the most prominent features in the landscape.</p> -<p>Ruthin is a large neat town, only divided from the parish of -Llanruth by a strong stone bridge: the church, <a -name="page275"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 275</span>which is -beautifully situated, is a handsome modern edifice: and the site -of the old chapel is now converted into a bowling-green. -Owen Glendwr, as an act of revenge on Lord Grey, plundered the -town in the year 1400, during a fair, and then retired among the -mountains. In the last century, the loyalists fortified the -castle, and sustained a long siege in the year 1646.</p> -<p>We still continued skirting the rich vale of Clwyd; but -winding up a steep hill, overlooking the whole of it from one -extremity to the other, we were reluctantly compelled to bid a -final adieu to all its vistas, hamlets, steeples. The whole -prospect, glowing with luxuriance, seemed to assume fresh -beauties at this our farewell view: the cattle, which were -grazing in the shorn meadows, and beautifully contrasted with the -ripening corn, appeared more animated; and we discovered, or -thought we discovered, an additional number of villages, peeping -from the woody skirts of the sloping hills. From this point -the vale is certainly seen to great advantage. To give a -still greater effect, a thunder-storm came rolling on, and the -clouds were</p> -<blockquote><p>“Silent borne along, heavy and slow,<br /> -With the big stores of steaming oceans charged.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>This storm compelled us to seek for shelter in a miserable -pot-house; but the civility of the landlady fully compensated for -its want of accommodations. The effects of the storm -rendered the remainder of our journey much more agreeable, and -the heat less oppressive: a dull uninteresting <a -name="page276"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 276</span>road -continued till we arrived within four or five miles of</p> -<h3>WREXHAM.</h3> -<p>The contrast was too striking to escape our notice; but, -having climbed a steep eminence, the eye commanded an almost -boundless range of land; and the faint colour of the hills, -retiring in the distance, was beautifully combined with the -mellow green of nearer woods. The counties of Cheshire, -Shropshire, and a considerable part of Wales, were extended like -a map, for our inspection; the town of Wrexham, rising in the -bottom, animated the scene, with its noble tower overtopping the -numberless little steeples near it. Close to the road we -observed several coal and lead mines, and a melting-house for -forming lead into pigs: these works belong to Mr. Wilkinson.</p> -<p>The dirty outskirts of Wrexham by no means prepossessed us in -favour of the town; but, viewing it more leisurely, we can safely -affirm, that it is not only the largest, but the best built town -in Wales.</p> -<p>A friendly clergyman conducted us to the church, an elegant -building of the reign of King Henry the Seventh, and called one -of the seven wonders of Wales. The tower is a hundred and -forty feet high, and esteemed “a beautiful specimen of the -florid, or reformed Gothic, which prevailed about that -time.” All the figures and ornaments are well -designed, and still in high preservation. The inside is not -less elegant; it has lately been neatly repaired, with a good -gallery and organ: the painted <a name="page277"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 277</span>altar-piece is well executed. -On the left, facing the altar, is a very handsome monument by -Roubilliac, to the memory of Mrs. Mary Middleton; both the design -and execution reflect the highest credit on the sculptor. -The subject is the Last Day: at the sound of the trumpet a tomb -of black marble bursts open, and a beautiful female figure, -clothed in white, appears rising from it, just awoke from the -sleep of death; her form dignified; candour, innocence, and -celestial joy shine in her countenance, and give it the most -feeling and animated expression. In the back-ground an -obelisk, supposed to be erected to her memory, is rent asunder: -above an angel, enveloped in a cloud, is pointing to brighter -scenes.</p> -<p>In this church are two other monuments, executed by the same -celebrated master, in memory of some of the Middletons. -Their designs, though striking, cannot be compared to his Last -Day.</p> -<p>The altar-piece was brought from Rome by Elihu Yale, Esq. -whose tomb bears the following inscription:—</p> -<blockquote><p>Born in America, in Europe bred,<br /> -In Afric travell’d, and in Asia wed:<br /> -Where long he lived and thrived—in London died.<br /> -Much good, some ill he did, so hope all’s even,<br /> -And that his soul, through mercy, ’s gone to -heav’n!<br /> -You that survive and read this tale, take care<br /> -For this most certain exit to prepare.<br /> -When blest in peace, the actions of the just,<br /> -Smell sweet, and blossom in the silent dust.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><a name="page278"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 278</span>Our -worthy conductor, perceiving we were great amateurs of painting, -and careful that nothing of consequence should be passed -unnoticed by us, particularly wished us to examine the -performance of a young artist then at Wrexham. A copy, -amongst others, of a painting of Rembrandt’s, taken by Mr. -Allen from a celebrated picture, in the possession of Lord -Craven, was most ingeniously executed. The subject is an -old man instructing a young boy; the attention of the latter most -admirably preserved; the head of the former, and the hand -particularly, most highly finished. Without any -exaggeration, this painting would do credit to the most -scientific painter, and be esteemed invaluable; it is therefore -to be hoped, from the hands of so young an artist as Mr. Allen, -that this performance will be disposed of where judges of -painting may view it with a critic’s eye, and recommend its -merits to those who can afford to encourage industry and -ingenuity.</p> -<p>Our friend’s invitation to his hospitable parsonage, and -agreeable family, was too kindly urged possibly to be refused: -and, in our way to</p> -<h3>MARCH WIEL,</h3> -<p>we visited the seat of P. Yorke, Esq. The grounds and -plantations are very extensive; and the bowery walks, while they -afford refreshing shelter from a summer’s sun, allow -partial views of the counties of Cheshire and Shropshire, with -the Wrekin and Brydyork Hills; in short, through these groves</p> -<blockquote><p><a name="page279"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -279</span>“How long soe’er the wanderer roves, each -step<br /> -Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents<br /> -A diff’rent picture—new, and yet the same.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The tower of Wrexham, and the town itself, as occasion offers, -is a nearer and an additional charming object. In an -alteration of the walks, a few years since, were discovered below -the surface of the ground the shattered walls of an ancient -castle. These fragments Mr. Yorke has left unimpaired, and -they remain a memento of the vicissitudes of fortune: the -entrenchments round the castle, and likewise the original site of -the keep, are still very apparent.</p> -<p>The house itself is very indifferent: Watt’s Dyke runs -through part of the grounds. In a parlour opposite the -garden we observed some fine paintings of the Hardwicke -family. Mr. Yorke has dedicated another room to the royal -tribes of Wales, <a name="citation279"></a><a href="#footnote279" -class="citation">[279]</a> where the arms and lines of the -descent, as far as they can be traced, are emblazoned and hung -up.</p> -<p>In the coolness of the evening our hospitable host conducted -us to the neat and elegant little country church of March Wiel, -lately cased with stone; and in the year 1788 ornamented with a -new painted window, by Mr. Egington, near Birmingham. The -twenty-one compartments contain the arms and crests of the -Middletons and Yorkes, with rich transparent borders. This -window is undoubtedly very elegant, but the subject, in my -opinion, <a name="page280"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -280</span>more adapted to a ball than an ornament to a church -window. The high tower appears not in proportion with the -body of the church.</p> -<p>Deeply impressed with sentiments of gratitude towards our -reverend friend, and sensible of his hospitality and kind -intentions, we took our leave of him early the next morning, and -pursued our route to</p> -<h3>RUABON,</h3> -<p>purposing to visit Wynnstay Park, the much-admired seat of Sir -Watkin Williams Wynne. On leaving March Wiel, a most -delightful prospect spread before us; in the retrospect, the -tower of Wrexham Church brought to our recollection the views of -Magdalen College tower, in the vicinity of Oxford.</p> -<p>The park of Wynnstay is well stocked with red deer; excellent -plantations; and the house is an elegant modern structure; but -has nothing in the inside particularly deserving the attention of -the traveller. In the grounds the chief object worthy of -inspection is a very elegant obelisk, erected to the memory of -the present Sir Watkin’s father. The height is a -hundred and one feet; the base of it sixteen, and the top nine, -built with free-stone, and fluted. Round the top is formed -a gallery, with a handsome urn in bronze, after an elegant -design, cast in London: round the base of the column are wreaths -of oak leaves, in the beaks of four eagles, cast in the same -metal. On the south-west side is a door, with a stair-case -within the obelisk leading to the top. We regretted that -the key could not be procured, as the prospect from that -elevation must be extremely fine. On the other three sides -<a name="page281"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 281</span>an -appropriate inscription, in English, Welsh, and Latin, is to be -carved.</p> -<p>Through this park runs Offa’s Dyke, thrown up by the -great King of Mercia, from whence it derives its name, to check -the irruptions of the Welsh, mark the confines of each country, -and give greater security to his own. It begins at -Basingwerk in Flintshire, and ends at Chepstow in Monmouthshire; -extending in a line of not less than one hundred and fifty miles -over rocks and mountains. This great undertaking still -retains the ancient name of Clawdh Offa, or Offa’s -Dyke.</p> -<p>Passing through the little village of Ruabon, situated at the -extremity of Sir Watkin’s park, a very interesting and -picturesque country, composed of rich valleys and gently sloping -hills, presented itself to our view; and, at some distance, we -soon caught a glimpse of Chirk Castle, a noble seat of the family -of the Middletons, standing on an eminence. Four miles from -Llangollen we inquired for the wonderful</p> -<h3>PONTCYSYLLTY AQUEDUCT, <a name="citation281"></a><a -href="#footnote281" class="citation">[281]</a></h3> -<p>(pronounced Pont y Casulte) or famous aqueduct, erected near -that bridge, over the river Dee, and found ourselves within half -a mile of this great and astonishing undertaking. The stone -of which it is built resembles that of Portland; and the effect -which it produces, from whatever point it is viewed, is highly -pleasing. On the middle column is the following -inscription:</p> -<blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><a -name="page282"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 282</span>“The -Nobility and Gentry of<br /> -The adjacent counties,<br /> -Having united their efforts with<br /> -The great commercial interest of this country,<br /> -In creating an intercourse and union between<br /> -England and Wales,<br /> -By a navigable communication of the three rivers,<br /> -Severn, Dee, and Mersey;<br /> -For the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade,<br /> -Caused the first stone of this aqueduct of<br /> -<span class="smcap">Pontcysyllty</span>,<br /> -To be laid on the 25th day of July, <span -class="GutSmall">M.DCC.XCV.</span><br /> -When <span class="smcap">Richard Myddleton</span>, of Chirk, Esq. -M.P.<br /> -One of the original Patrons of the<br /> -Ellesmere Canal,<br /> -Was Lord of this Manor,<br /> -And in the reign of our Sovereign,<br /> -<span class="smcap">George</span> the Third;<br /> -When the equity of the Laws, and<br /> -The security of Property,<br /> -Promoted the general welfare of the nation;<br /> -While the Arts and Sciences flourished<br /> -By his patronage, and<br /> -The conduct of Civil Life was improved<br /> -By his example.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“Pont y Cyssyllte, a bridge of several arches, close to -it, is quite eclipsed by its stupendous height and -magnitude. In it we recognize the great water conveyances -of ancient Rome, which, though superior in point of length, were -inferior in other respects. Its direction is north and -south, crossing the Dee at right angles. It forms, -connected as it is with the surrounding fine scenery, a noble and -magnificent picture; but to view it to the best advantage, the -stranger must ascend the acclivities on either <a -name="page283"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 283</span>side of it: -from whence he will be highly pleased with a scene, in which -there is every concomitant circumstance that can please the lover -of nature and art.”</p> -<p>The extent of the aqueduct is nine hundred and eighty-eight -feet, and exhibits nineteen arches, each forty-five feet -span. The summit has a water-trough of cast iron, one -thousand and nine feet in length, and in breadth eleven feet -eight inches. The elegant piers lessen upwards gradually, -from ten feet width, and twenty-one feet depth at the base, to -seven feet width, and twelve feet depth at the top. These -piers are one hundred and sixteen feet high from the river, and -from their ending, to the greatest height of the building, twenty -feet; making the total elevation, one hundred and twenty-six -feet. To each end of the aqueduct are added ten feet six -inches of iron work. From centre to centre of each arch are -screwed together eleven strong iron plates, as strengthened.</p> -<p>The lime rocks here are very great; and, by calcination on the -spot, are rendered fit for immediate use; and, as the Ellesmere -canal is opened for public traffic, they must yield immense -profit to the proprietors, who are now enabled to supply all the -neighbouring counties, Chester, Liverpool, &c.</p> -<p>Wood, water, and sloping hills, all combine to render this -vale interesting. Several detached cottages are sprinkled -through its wooded declivities; and here and there a -gentleman’s seat, “embosomed high in tufted -trees,” makes a pleasing feature in the fascinating -landscape. Returning to the turnpike road, a short saunter -soon brought us to the romantically-situated town of</p> -<h3><a name="page284"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -284</span>LLANGOLLEN,</h3> -<p>(pronounced Thlangothlen) completely environed with mountains, -with a high hill to our right, bearing on its narrow peak the -small remains of Castle Dinas Brân. The bridge, -adjacent to the town, thrown over the rapid Dee, consisting of -six arches, and formerly esteemed one of the principal wonders of -Wales, by no means answered our expectations. Some -difficulty, no doubt, attended its first erection, as the -foundation is built on the solid rock.</p> -<p>The elegant description of the valley in the kingdom of -Amhara, by Dr. Johnson, is very applicable to Llangollen; for -“all the blessings of nature seemed here to be collected, -and its evils extracted and excluded.” Without a sigh -of regret, not like the discontented Rasselas, I could here pass -the remainder of my days, “in full conviction, that this -vale contains within its reach all that art or nature can -bestow. I could pity those, whom fate had excluded from -this seat of tranquillity, as the sport of chance, and the slaves -of misery.” Such is the enviable situation of Lady -Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby; who, thus veiled in obscurity, -have fitted up, in a true characteristic style, an elegant little -cottage, at the west extremity of the town, situated on a -knoll. The two rooms which are allotted for the inspection -of strangers, are very handsomely furnished: the dining-room is -ornamented with drawings, the most favourite spots in the -vicinity being selected as the subjects. The window -commands a prospect of the mountains, which awfully rise in -front. The study, looking on the well-arranged <a -name="page285"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 285</span>plantations -of the garden, was appropriately furnished with a choice -collection of books. We regretted, in the absence of the -gardener, that we could not gain admittance to the grounds. -The vale of Llangollen, and this enviable retreat, have been the -subject of much admiration, both in verse and prose; and highly -deserve the praises which have been lavished upon it:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Say, ivy’d Valle Crucis; time -delay’d<br /> - Dim on the brink of Deva’s wand’ring -floods,<br /> -Your ivy’d arch glitt’ring through the tangled -shade,<br /> - Your grey hills tow’ring o’er your night -of woods;<br /> -Deep in the vale recesses as you stand,<br /> - And, desolately great, the rising sign command;<br -/> -Say, lovely ruin’d pile, when former years<br /> - Saw your pale train at midnight altars bow;<br /> -Saw superstition frown upon the tears<br /> - That mourn’d the rash, irrevocable vow;<br /> -Wore one young lip gay Eleanora’s <a -name="citation285a"></a><a href="#footnote285a" -class="citation">[285a]</a> smile?<br /> -Did Zara’s <a name="citation285b"></a><a -href="#footnote285b" class="citation">[285b]</a> look serene one -tedious hour beguile?”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The bridge of Llangollen is thus described by the elegant pen -of Mr. Pennant:—“The bridge, which was founded by the -first John Trevor, bishop of St. Asaph, <a -name="citation285c"></a><a href="#footnote285c" -class="citation">[285c]</a> who died in 1357, is one of the Tri -Thlws Cymru, or three beauties of Wales: but more remarkable for -its situation than structure. It consists of five arches; -whose widest does not exceed twenty-eight feet in diameter. -The river usually runs under only one; where it has formed a -black chasm of vast depth, into which the water pours with great -fury from a high broken ledge, formed <a name="page286"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 286</span>in the smooth and solid rock, which -composes the whole bed of the river. The view through the -arches, either upwards or downwards, is extremely -picturesque.”</p> -<p>Having satisfied our curiosity, Dinas Brân, or Crow -Castle, next invited our attention; and having attained the -summit of a steep and craggy hill, commanding a pleasing view of -Llangollen, we arrived at the ruins, which crest this -precipice. The remains of this castle are now so trifling, -that it scarcely repays even the enthusiast the trouble of -ascending. Its appearance is by no means picturesque; not a -tree to give effect to the crumbling walls: nor has time spared -one of the towers. It was formerly the residence of Myfanwy -Vechan, so celebrated in verse. The castle is built of the -stone which composes the hill, on which it is erected.</p> -<p>The prospect is very pleasing. Chirk Castle, Wynnstay -Park, <a name="citation286"></a><a href="#footnote286" -class="citation">[286]</a> and many other seats of -respectability, more particularly conspicuous. Great part -of the vale, and the meandering course of the Dee, may here be -traced; whilst the opposite hills are shelved off in an -extraordinary and unusual manner, resembling so many walls or -fortifications.</p> -<p>The author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of -Nature, thus describes his ascent up this mountain. -“The sun was shooting its evening rays along the vale, -embellishing every thing they touched. It <a -name="page287"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 287</span>having -rained all the morning, the freshness with which spring had clad -every object, gave additional impulse to all our feelings. -Arrived at the summit, the scene became truly captivating: for -nature appeared to have drawn the veil from her bosom, and to -glory in her charms. The season of early spring, which, in -other countries, serves only to exhibit their poverty, displayed -new beauties in this. Nature had thrown off her mantle of -snow, and appeared to invite the beholder to take a last look of -her beauties, ere she shaded the cottage with woodbine, or -screened with leaves the fantastic arms of the oak. The -clouds soon began to form over their heads, and a waving column -lightly touched their hats. Around was one continued range -of mountains, with <span class="smcap">Dinas</span> rising above -the river. Immediately below, lay a beautifully-diversified -vale, with the Dee,—Milton’s ‘Wizard -Stream,’—combining all the charms of the Arno and the -Loire, winding through the middle of it: while on the east side -of the mountain several villages seemed to rest in calm -repose. This beautiful scene was soon converted into a -sublime one. For the clouds assuming a more gloomy -character, the tops of all the mountains around became totally -enveloped; and our heads were now and then encircled with a heavy -vapour. A more perfect union of the beautiful and -magnificent it were difficult to conceive. No object was -discernible above; but below, how captivating! Their feet -were illumined by the sun, their heads, as it were, touching the -clouds. Above, all was gloomy and dark; below, the sun, -from the west, still illumined the villages and spires, the -cottages and woods, the pastures and fields, which <a -name="page288"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 288</span>lay -scattered in every direction; while the Dee, at intervals, swept, -in many a graceful curve, along the bottom of the vale. -These objects, so variously blended, and so admirably contrasted -with the sombre scene above them, called to the imagination the -golden thoughts of Ariosto; and inspired such a combination of -feelings, that, for a time, they were absorbed in silent -meditation. While they were indulging in this repose, the -sounds of village bells, in honour of a recent marriage, came -floating on the breeze from below. The sounds, softened by -the distance, and coming from a region so far beneath, lulled -them with a choral symphony, that excited the most delightful -sensations. And such must ever be the effect on those whose -happiness has not been smothered beneath a load of splendid -vacuities; in whom society has not engendered an infinity of -wants; in whom ignorance has not awakened pride, arrogance, and -vanity; and in whom content has the power of lulling every fever -of illegitimate desire.”</p> -<p>Having descended this steep eminence, we continued our route -to Valle Crucis Abbey, about two miles distant from -Llangollen. It would be advisable for strangers first to -visit Valle Crucis, and take Dinas Brân Castle in their way -back to their inn. The transmutations of time are -frequently ridiculous: the long aisles of this monastery, which -were once only responsive to the slow-breathed chant, now repeat -the rude dissonance of cows, ducks, and all manner of -poultry. Instead of these emblems of rusticity, the -mind’s eye is more accustomed to appropriate these antique -edifices to the midnight procession of monks issuing from their -cells to perform the solemn service. <a -name="page289"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 289</span>These -neglected walls are too deeply shrouded by the melancholy grove -of towering ash, contiguously formed, to be seen to -advantage. An axe, judiciously used, would be of service to -the ruin, as the elegant window of the chapel is completely -concealed by the luxuriant vegetation around; still, however, a -pleasing melancholy pervades the whole scene. The abbey is -beautifully screened on all sides by woody hills, which entirely -protect it from the inclemency of the winter.</p> -<p>This ancient Cistertian monastery was founded by Madoc ap -Griffith Maelor, in the year 1200, and is sometimes called -Llan-Egwiste, or Llanegwast. In this vale was the pillar of -Eglwyseg: but the country people appeared quite ignorant of its -situation. Returning to Llangollen, we pursued the turnpike -road to the neat village of</p> -<h3>CHIRK.</h3> -<p>For some way we followed the straight and formal course of a -canal, near this, communicating with the Pont-y-Cyssyllte; we -again paused to survey this wonderful design. The vale, on -our left, was indescribably beautiful; and over the whole was -diffused the purple glow of the evening. The prospect was -composed of the miniature parts of the immense landscape we had -viewed from Dinas Brân Hill, each of which we now -contemplated separately as a scene. The moon’s -chequered gleam besilvered the walls of Chirk Castle, just as we -entered the Hand Inn, where, after the fatigues of a long walk, -we met with excellent accommodation, when considered as a -village.</p> -<p><a name="page290"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 290</span>After -breakfast the next morning we endeavoured to obtain admission to -see the inside of Chirk Castle, but without success; though now -only inhabited by servants, who were peremptorily commanded to -admit no strangers. It is situated on an eminence, -surrounded by a park and fine plantations, which are very -judiciously laid out. This elegant mansion has been in the -possession of the Middleton family ever since the year -1614. Having gratified ourselves with a survey of this -noble park, we returned to the Oswestry road. Leaving the -village of Chirk, we crossed a new bridge of one arch, elegantly -constructed. Near it is another aqueduct, of considerable -extent, now erecting over this river and valley, which though -very inferior to the Pont-y-Cyssyllte, is still a great -undertaking; it is several hundred yards in length, and the brick -piers rise fifty or sixty feet above the level of the -water. Near this is a rich coal mine, lately -discovered.</p> -<p>From hence to Oswestry we traversed a rich enclosed country, -and enjoyed a scene particularly pleasing: all the inhabitants -were collected, to gather in the produce of the ripened field; -and</p> -<blockquote><p>“Through their cheerful band the rural -talk,<br /> -The rural scandal, and the rural jest,<br /> -Fled harmless.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>To the traveller and the poet such scenes afford an ample -field for amusement; but waving corn is ill adapted to the -canvass of the painter. About two miles from Oswestry, we -passed through the little town of</p> -<h3><a name="page291"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -291</span>WHITTINGTON.</h3> -<p>At this place was fought the battle between Oswald, the -Christian king of the Northumbrians, and Penda, the Pagan king of -the Mercians, in which the former lost his life. An easy -walk soon brought us to</p> -<h3>OSWESTRY.</h3> -<p>Its only relics now remaining are the ruins of a chapel, built -over a remarkably fine spring of water; to this was formerly -attributed the cure of various diseases, incident both to man and -beast; and though its miracles have long ceased, yet it still -bears the name of the saint. The remains of the castle, -supposed to have been built at the time of the Conquest, are now -almost too trivial to be noticed. This town was garrisoned -by the king, in the beginning of the civil wars, but captured in -June, 1644, by the Earl of Denbigh and General Mytton.</p> -<p>In passing through the town of Oswestry we noticed the church, -as being a very neat building; but, either from our own neglect, -or imagining it not to be ancient, we did not inspect the -interior. Oswestry suffered greatly by fire in the year -1542, and likewise in 1567.</p> -<p>“The chirch of St. Oswalde,” says Leland, -“is a very faire leddid chirch, with a great tourrid -steple, but it standeth without the new gate; so that no chirch -is there withyn the towne. This chirch was sum time a -monasterie, caullid the <i>White Minster</i>. After turnid -to a paroche chirch, and the personage impropriate to the abbey -of Shreusbyri. The cloister stoode in hominum memoria ubi -monumenta monachorum. The place and <a -name="page292"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 292</span>streate wer -the chirch standithe is called Stretllan.” From this -place to</p> -<h3>LLANYMYNACH,</h3> -<p>situate on the north bank of the Evyrnwy, a continuation of -the rich enclosed country, showing to advantage the agriculture -of these parts, attended us till we reached the foot of the hill -of Llanymynach. From the summit of this we enjoyed a most -beautiful and boundless prospect, commanding the whole dome of -the sky. All individual dignity was overpowered by the -immensity of the whole view, which consisted more particularly of -the rivers Virnwy and Tannad, joining their waters with the -Severn; the lofty waterfall of Pystyll Rhaiadr—the Breddin -Hills—and the Ferwyn Mountains. The geological -observations on Llanymynach Hill, by Mr. Aikin, are so accurate, -that to attempt any further description would be deemed highly -presumptuous in me; I shall therefore avail myself of an account -so ably delineated.</p> -<p>“The hill of Llanymynach is not only remarkable for the -fine prospect from its top, it is still more worthy notice, as -containing by far the most extensive lime works of any in this -part of the country. The lime of Llanymynach rock is in -high request as a manure, and is sent by land-carriage as far as -Montgomery, New-town, and even Llanidloes: it sells at the kilns -for sevenpence a bushel; and from thirty to thirty-six bushels -are reckoned a waggon load; the coal with which it is burnt, is -brought partly from the neighbourhood of Oswestry, and partly -from Sir Watkin Williams Wynne’s pits, near Ruabon. -The lime lies in strata, parallel to the horizon, varying <a -name="page293"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 293</span>in -thickness from three inches to five feet; it is of an -extraordinary hardness, with but little calcareous spar, and few -shells, or rather marine exuvial; its colour reddish brown, -burning to almost white. Between the strata of lime we -found a very tenacious smooth clay, orange-colour ochre, and -green plumose carbonate of copper, or malachite. It was in -search of this copper that the Romans carried on here such -extensive works, of which the remains are still very visible: -they consist of a range of from twenty to thirty shallow pits, -the heaps of rubbish from the mouths of which abound with small -pieces of copper ore, and a cave of considerable dimensions, -terminating in an irregular winding passage of unknown length, -connected with which are two air-shafts still remaining open, and -the appearances of several others now filled up: in some of these -caverns are found large and beautiful specimens of -stalactite. One of the levels was explored some years ago, -and in it was discovered a skeleton, with mining tools, and some -Roman copper coins. The whole mass of the hill seems more -or less impregnated with copper: wherever the surface is -uncovered, there are evident marks of the presence of this metal, -and the stones composing the rampart of Offa’s Dyke, which -encompasses two sides of the hill, are in many parts covered with -cupreus efflorescences. Between the village and the rock -passes a branch of the Ellesmere canal, which, when navigable, -will add much to the value of these works, by rendering them more -accessible to the surrounding country, and may induce some -spirited adventurer to re-commence a search after copper, <a -name="page294"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 294</span>which, it -is evident, was formerly prosecuted with considerable -success.”</p> -<p>This description of Llanymynach Hill we pronounce, from our -own observation, to be very accurate, so that the length of the -quotation will be readily excused. Leaving the pretty -village of Llanymynach, situated on the banks of the Virnwy, we -resumed our journey to Welsh Pool. The face of the country -was pleasing; and we soon reached the Breddin Hills, on whose -summit a column is erected to commemorate the victory of Admiral -Lord Rodney over the French, in the year 1782. Not far from -hence we passed a handsome aqueduct, admirably constructed over -the river Virnwy, of great strength and stability. The vale -of the Severn affords much picturesque scenery, and we at length -arrived at</p> -<h3>WELSH POOL QUAY,</h3> -<p>about three miles from that place. Several vessels were -lying here, which carry on a constant traffic with Worcester, and -the towns situated on the banks of this noble river. Before -our entrée into Pool, Powis Castle appeared on an -eminence, immediately rising behind the town, and beautifully -backed by a large plantation of trees.</p> -<p>Welsh Pool derives its name from a black pool in its -neighbourhood, (its Welsh appellation signifying a quagmire or -pool), and is one of the five boroughs in Montgomeryshire, which -jointly send a member to Parliament. The town is by no -means neat: it stands on a low hill, and consists of one -principal street, in which are situated the new county-hall and -market-places. The Severn is <a name="page295"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 295</span>navigable within three quarters of a -mile of this town, which is computed at not less than two hundred -miles from its junction with the British channel. It is the -great market for the Welsh flannel, called gwart, or webb, -prepared in many parts of Merionethshire, and generally used for -soldiers’ clothes. This trade, however, has of late -been very inconsiderable.</p> -<p>Powis Castle (anciently called Poole Castle) the seat of Lord -Clive, lies to the right, about one mile from Pool, on the ridge -of a rock, retaining a mixture of castle and mansion. Here -Lucien Buonaparte lived several years. It is built of red -stone, and originally contained within its walls two castles: the -entrance is between two round towers. There are several -family portraits in a long gallery, measuring one hundred and -seventeen feet by twenty. The gardens still retain that -stiff formality so much in vogue many years ago; but the curious -water-works, in imitation of the wretched taste of St. -Germains-en-Laye, are now destroyed. The prospect from the -castle is very extensive, comprehending a view of Welsh Poole, -Vale, and Freiddin Hills. From hence to</p> -<h3>MONTGOMERY,</h3> -<p>the Ellesmere canal accompanied us part of the way; and at -length, after a fatiguing walk, we reached the Green Dragon, a -small and comfortable inn. The site of Montgomery is very -pleasing, on a gentle ascent, and backed by a steep hill, -beautifully clothed with the rich plantations belonging to Lord -Powis. The town itself is a straggling place, and has -little to recommend it. The <a name="page296"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 296</span>remains of the castle are now too -trifling to interest the passing traveller.</p> -<p>In the year 1094, this castle was gallantly defended by the -Normans; but the Welsh, at last, finding means to undermine the -walls, took it by storm; and after putting the garrison to the -sword, levelled it to the ground. It was rebuilt by King -Henry III., in the year 1221, as a check to the incursions of the -Welsh; but a second time razed to the ground by Llewelyn the -Great, Prince of Wales. It afterwards became the seat of -the ancestors of the Lord Herbert of Cherbury, who was born here, -and continued in possession of his descendants, till reduced to -its present ruinous condition by the civil wars.</p> -<p>The road to</p> -<h3>BISHOP’S CASTLE</h3> -<p>brought us through a very rich country; and, on ascending a -hill, about five miles from Montgomery, a retrospect of the -far-distant mountainous country of Wales, to which we were now -bidding a last adieu, irresistibly brought on a train of serious -reflections. In a retrospect like this, where the subject -and the scene must inspire serious thoughts, such traces are not -unpleasing; they tend to promote one general effect—the -love of contemplation. We enumerated the little incidents -which had taken place, indulging reflections on scenes for ever -past:—we erected on the spot which we esteemed most adapted -to retirement, the visionary cottage: our schemes were instantly -arranged: fancy fashioned its ornaments, adapted its -appendages,—and fancy will <a name="page297"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 297</span>ever exceed realities. But all -our air-built plans of future happiness soon vanished: and, alas! -when</p> -<blockquote><p>. . . “fancy scatters roses all around,<br -/> -What blissful visions rise! In prospect bright<br /> -Awhile they charm the soul; but scarce attain’d,<br /> -The gay delusion fades. Another comes;<br /> -The soft enchantment is again renew’d,<br /> -And youth again enjoys the airy dreams<br /> -Of fancied good.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Bishop’s Castle is situated in a bottom. We found -it a more extensive place than we expected; but being shortly -convinced that there was nothing particular to require a long -stay, and having recruited ourselves at the Castle Inn, we -hastened to leave the town. The road, for the first seven -miles, continually dipped into shallow valleys, well wooded, -affording cursory views, with many a substantial farmer’s -habitation lurking amongst the trees. At length a rich and -noble vale, with extensive woods on our right, animated with -several gentlemen’s seats, and watered by an overflowing -stream running immediately close to the road accompanied us -to</p> -<h3>LUDLOW,</h3> -<p>situated on an eminence in the midst of this most luxuriant -country. After the many indifferent Welsh towns which we -had passed through since the commencement of our pedestrian -excursion, we felt ourselves not a little chagrined at our -uncouth appearance on entering so gay a place. The streets -are commodious, and the houses and public buildings extremely -neat. The gravel walks <a name="page298"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 298</span>round the castle are extensive, and -command, at occasional points, distinct prospects of the -gentlemen’s seats in the neighbourhood, with their grounds -and noble plantations. The river Teme gives additional -beauty to this fascinating spot: the new bridge recently erected, -a little below the castle, forms likewise, from this spot, by no -means an uninteresting object; add to this, at suitable -distances, the river, by means of dams, is formed into small -artificial cascades. At the extremity of the town is -another bridge, separating the counties of Shropshire and -Hereford. These walks were laid out in the year 1772, by -the Countess of Powis, at a great expense. The -overshadowing trees not only afford refreshing shelter from a -summer’s sun, but are likewise a protection from the -piercing winter’s wind: indeed,</p> -<blockquote><p>. . . “I could rove<br /> -At morn, at noon, at eve, by lunar ray,<br /> -In each returning season, through your shade,<br /> -Ye rev’rend woods; could visit every dell,<br /> -Each hill, each breezy lawn, each wand’ring brook,<br /> -And bid the world admire; each magic spot again<br /> -Could seek, and tell again of all its charms.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Towards the north, the mazy course of the Teme,—Oakley -Park, the elegant seat of the Dowager Lady Clive,—the Clee -Hills,—the celebrated Caer Caradoc, with the other -eminences near Stretton, terminating the view, present a most -pleasing landscape. Towards the west, a combination of -rock, wood, and water, gratifies the warmest wish of fancy.</p> -<p>The Whitecliff, opposite to the castle, and Hackluyt’s -<a name="page299"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 299</span>Close, -near the Leominster road, are the two other most favourite walks; -but that round the castle is resorted to as the most fashionable -promenade. The town of Ludlow has been calculated to -contain seven hundred and two houses, and nearly three thousand -five hundred and sixty-five persons. <a name="citation299"></a><a -href="#footnote299" class="citation">[299]</a> The public -buildings are the market-house, the guildhall, the prison (called -Gaolford’s tower), and the cross. The rooms over the -latter are dedicated for the instruction of thirty poor boys, and -fifteen poor girls; and the former at a proper age are -apprenticed out. The town enjoys no particular manufactory, -but its chief trade consists in the article of gloves.</p> -<p>The castle, the palace of the Prince of Wales in right of his -principality, is now entirely in ruins, except Mortimer’s -Tower, which was repaired by Sir Henry Sidney, during his -presidency. It is now inhabited by an old servant of Lord -Powis’s, a very civil and intelligent man, who related with -the utmost concern the sad vicissitudes this castle had -experienced: he insisted on our entering the tower of his -habitation, and ascending the crumbling stairs, for a full -display of the various beauties in the vicinity of Ludlow. -He expatiated much on a valuable diamond ring, which he had -discovered himself when attempting to drain a cellar; the -inscription of Hebrew characters round the gold within the ring -was interpreted <a name="page300"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -300</span>by the learned, “a good heart;” this, and -several coins of silver and gold, which were found at the same -time, are now in the possession of Lord Powis: near the same spot -a number of skeletons were likewise dug up. He next -conducted us to a small room in this tower, to observe an old -stone placed over the fire-place, with a cross, the letters W. S. -and the date 1575, engraven on it.</p> -<p>Over the south-east gateway, leading into the interior of the -castle, are the arms of Elizabeth, Queen of England; and beneath, -those of the Sydney family, with the following inscription:</p> -<blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><span -class="GutSmall">HOMINIBUS INGRATIS LOQUIMINI</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">LAPIDES.—ANN. REGNI -REGINÆ</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">ELIZABETHÆ</span> 23.—<span -class="GutSmall">THE</span> 28 <span -class="GutSmall">YEAR</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">COPLET OF THE RESIDENCE</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OF SIR HENRY SYDNEY KNIGHT</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OF THE MOST NOBLE ORDER OF THE</span><br -/> -<span class="GutSmall">GARTER</span>, 1581.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>This castle, founded by Roger de Montgomery, on a rock, in the -north-east angle of the town, supposed to be in the year 1112, -was considerably enlarged by Sir Henry Sydney. Its ancient -British name, Dinan Llys Tywysog, signifies the Prince’s -Palace. The vicissitudes of war have frequently been -exemplified in this castle; it has had its lords and its princes; -it has been plundered, captured, dismantled, and repaired, in -those periods of civil warfare, which this unfortunate country in -former times continually experienced. Philips, in the -History and Antiquities of Shrewsbury, during those melancholy -troubles, gives some account of this castle. Some -historians affirm <a name="page301"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -301</span>that King Edward V. and his brother were born in Ludlow -Castle; but others, not crediting this assertion, attribute their -birth-place to Wigmore; certain, however, it is, that during -their minority they here held their court, under the tuition of -Lord Anthony Woodville and Lord Scales, till they were removed to -London, and soon after smothered in the Tower by the command of -their cruel and ambitious uncle, the Duke of Gloucester. -Here, likewise, Prince Arthur, the eldest son of King Henry VII., -celebrated his marriage with the virtuous Catherine of Arragon; -and in the year 1502 he here paid the debt of nature, and was -buried in the cathedral church of Worcester.</p> -<p>The account of the representation at Ludlow of Milton’s -celebrated mask of Comus, is thus mentioned in the life of that -poet, prefixed to Newton’s edition:—“It was in -the year 1634 that this mask was presented at Ludlow -Castle. There was formerly a president of Wales, and a sort -of a court kept at Ludlow, which has since been abolished; and -the president at that time was the Earl of Bridgewater, before -whom Milton’s mask was presented on Michaelmas night; and -the principal parts, those of the two brothers, were performed by -his lordship’s sons, the Lord Brackly and Mr. Thomas -Egerton; and that of the lady, by his lordship’s daughter, -the Lady Alice Egerton.”</p> -<p>In the first year of William and Mary the presidency was -dissolved by Act of Parliament, “being a great grievance to -the subject, and a means to introduce an arbitrary power, -especially in the late reign, when a new convert family were at -the head of it.”</p> -<p><a name="page302"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 302</span>The -church next demanded our attention, the only one belonging to -this town. The time of the foundation of this ancient and -elegant structure cannot now be strictly ascertained: it is -situated on an eminence, in the centre of the town. The -square tower is lofty, and of very light architecture, but the -upper part suffered much from the all-destroying hand of Oliver -Cromwell. The highly-finished statues round the battlements -are much mutilated, and many entirely destroyed. On -entering the church, six light Gothic fluted arches on each side, -with four similar ones of larger dimensions, supporting the -tower, are strikingly grand. Under the organ-loft we passed -into the chancel, now only made use of for the administration of -the sacrament. This is a most elegant building, with -thirteen stalls on each side, similar, in style, to the -generality of cathedrals. The seats of the stalls, all of -which turn back, exhibit specimens of curious workmanship, with -strange devices and ridiculous conceits. Some of the glass -painted windows are still in good preservation: the large one -over the altar-piece represents the history of St. Lawrence, to -whom this church is dedicated, in fifty-four compartments. -The other windows of the chancel are much mutilated, collected -from different parts of the church, and several panes broken by -the unmeaning idleness of boys, regardless of these valuable -relics of antiquity.—In the side of the wall, near the -altar, are two stone stalls, with a piscina opposite.</p> -<p>In this chancel is a handsome monument, erected to the memory -of Robert Townsend and his wife, with several figures of their -sons and daughters carved round the bottom; over them are the -arms of their family and connexions; <a name="page303"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 303</span>it bears the date of 1581: a modern -monument to Theophilus Solway, Esq. An ancient one to -Ambrosia Sydney, who died at Ludlow Castle. This lady was -daughter to Sir Henry Sydney, who attained the important -situation of the presidency of Wales in the year 1564. He -died at Bewdley in 1584, and left this singular injunction to his -executors: “That his heart should be buried at Shrewsbury, -his bowels at Bewdley, and his body at Ludlow, in the tomb of his -favourite daughter Ambrosia.” This order was -punctually executed; and the leaden urn, containing his heart, -was six inches deep, and five inches in diameter at the top, with -this inscription carved three times round it:</p> -<p>“Her lith the Harte of Syr Henrye Sydney, <span -class="GutSmall">L. P.</span> <i>anno Domini</i>, -1586.” For an engraving of this urn, taken from a -drawing of Mr. S. Nicholas, see the Gentleman’s Magazine -for September, 1794. Another monument to Edward Weston and -his wife, kneeling opposite to each other.</p> -<p>In this church is likewise buried Sir John Bridgeman, the last -president but one of Ludlow Castle. He was extremely rigid -in his office; and one Ralph Gittins, who had probably -experienced his severity, composed the following epitaph on -him:</p> -<blockquote><p>“Here lies Sir John Bridgeman, clad in his -clay:<br /> -God said to the Devil, Sirrah, take him away.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Should the tourist find time to make any stay at Ludlow, -several excursions in the neighbourhood will prove highly -gratifying. Oakley Park, the elegant seat of the Dowager -Lady Clive, claims the greatest attention; it is <a -name="page304"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 304</span>situated -about two miles from Ludlow, on the banks of the Teme River: just -beyond this, a seat of — Walpole, Esq. About five -miles distant is Downton Castle, the noble mansion and fine walks -of Richard Payne Knight, Esq. one of the representatives in -Parliament for the borough of Ludlow. Being necessitated to -leave this charming country by a particular day, we had no -opportunity of visiting these celebrated and much-admired -houses.</p> -<p>With regret we left the delightful situation of Ludlow; and, -crossing Lawford’s bridge, we ascended an eminence along a -beautiful terrace, commanding a most charming and pleasant -country to our left, with the fertile county of Hereford, -abounding with orchards, which were all bending with the produce -of the year. About two miles from Ludlow, on the right, we -paused to admire the delightful seat of Theophilus Richard -Solway, Esq. situated on an eminence, and skirted by a rich -plantation of wood towards the west: it is called the -Lodge. Descending into a bottom, a rich country, studded -with farm-houses, soon brought us to the town of</p> -<h3>LEOMINSTER,</h3> -<p>or Leminster, consisting of one long street. The -market-place in the centre, bearing a very old date, and likewise -the church, are both deserving of the traveller’s -notice. It is situated in a flat, and the country round it -is not particularly interesting. From hence a turnpike -road, showing to advantage the rich culture of the country, soon -brought us within sight of the venerable cathedral of</p> -<h3><a name="page305"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -305</span>HEREFORD,</h3> -<p>backed by a sloping eminence just rising behind, and -beautifully clothed with wood. Being under a particular -engagement to meet a party at Ross, to accompany us down the Wye -the following day, time would not allow us to investigate this -respectable city so minutely as it deserves. Our -observations, therefore, were so cursory, that the Hereford Guide -must supply the deficiencies in this part of our journal; this -neglect the tourist must attribute to our delay at the engaging -town of Ludlow.</p> -<p>At Hereford we for some time hesitated respecting the hire of -a boat to convey us to Ross; but the exorbitant demand of the -boatmen soon determined us to pursue the turnpike road, and -follow as near as possible the course of the Wye. The -orchards were overcharged with “bending fruit,” and -seemed to prognosticate a more favourable cider season than has -of late been experienced. The retrospect of the city, with -its ancient cathedral, formed a most attracting view; and about -three miles a most lovely vale, bounded by the hills of South -Wales, arrested our attention. A continuation of the same -scenery of orchards, in which Herefordshire so peculiarly -abounds, with the road continually dipping into shallow valleys, -attended us within five miles of Ross; when, ascending a steep -hill, a view of that town, or, rather, of its far-conspicuous -spire, broke in upon the reposing character of the scene. -This presently conducted us to Wilton bridge, thrown over the -Wye; and, leaving the castle to the left, we ascended the town -of</p> -<h3><a name="page306"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -306</span>ROSS,</h3> -<p>to the inn, so celebrated as the original habitation of Mr. -Kyrle; more generally known by the name of the Man of Ross. -The landlord seems rather to depend upon the custom of strangers, -and from this circumstance the inn offers indifferent -accommodations. On the bridge we paused a short time to -take a view of the meandering Vaga, which here considerably -widens. Several pleasure-boats, of various constructions, -were riding at anchor, and united to enliven the watery scene; -whilst its smooth tranquil surface reflected and reverted every -object situated on the banks.</p> -<p>The life and character of Mr. Kyrle has too often been -insisted on, and too frequently celebrated in verse, to be again -repeated, unless to “point out its moral to the -heart;” teaching us that self-approbation can confer an -inward happiness superior to all worldly applause; for,</p> -<blockquote><p>“What nothing earthly gives, or can -destroy;<br /> -The soul’s calm sunshine, and the heart-felt joy,<br /> -Is virtue’s prize.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Such a bustle pervaded the whole town, of parties assembling -here for an aquatic expedition to Monmouth the following day, -that with difficulty we obtained a small room. From this -circumstance it would be advisable for parties to secure -themselves accommodations, during the summer months, a -considerable time beforehand; such is the continued assemblage of -parties forming for the Wye. A boat likewise should be -hired, and by mentioning the <a name="page307"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 307</span>number of your party, the landlord -will be a proper judge respecting the size. Strangers may -pass with pleasure the greatest part of a day in surveying the -views in the vicinity of Ross; views which must gratify the most -superficial observer, but more particularly from the -churchyard. A walk may be preferred through the latter -place to the Prospect, so called from the profuse variety of -objects in the beautiful and the sublime, which are presented -from this spot. The sudden bursts of such a collection of -beauties the eye, indeed, cannot contain without -gratification. The river below bends itself in the -whimsical and fantastical shape of a horse-shoe; this singular -wind of the river—the ruins of Wilton Castle—the -luxuriant counties of Hereford and Monmouth, and the beautiful -Chase Woods, all combine to promote one peculiarly grand and -striking effect. To enter into a minute description of -objects so various and extensive, is impossible: in fine, to -delineate the beauties of the Vaga, with all its accompaniments, -would be enumerating every object that is interesting in -nature. Having sufficiently contemplated the view from the -Prospect, a ramble through the meadows will next prove highly -pleasing.</p> -<p>The situation of Ross, though exceedingly beautiful, has -nothing in itself to detain attention: the streets are narrow, -dirty, and inconvenient. The castle of Wilton, situated on -the banks of the Wye, was founded in the reign of King Henry the -First: it was formerly a nunnery, from whence the Greys de Wilton -derive their title.</p> -<p>Early in the morning we congratulated each other on the -favourable state of the weather, and with good spirits provided -all the necessaries requisite for our water expedition; <a -name="page308"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 308</span>the -enjoyment of which depends much upon the season. The hire -of the boat to Monmouth by water is one pound eleven shillings -and sixpence, not including ten shillings for provisions for the -men, who likewise expect an additional small sum, after the -fatigues of the day. The boat, navigated by three men, will -contain ten or twelve people without any inconvenience, and is -properly protected by an awning from the heat of the sun. -The distance from Ross to Chepstow, by water, is more than forty -miles, which strangers occasionally accomplish in one day: but -this hurrying method will not allow them an opportunity of -inspecting, with proper attention, the various objects which -deserve to be noticed; and they cannot possibly find time to -leave their boat, and climb the rugged steep banks of the Wye in -search of views, which, though visited by the discerning few, yet -merit the regard of every amateur of nature’s -landscapes. And here it may not be improper to mention, -that the boatmen too frequently suffer these most interesting -spots to be passed unnoticed by strangers, merely from laziness, -or to avoid the delay of a few minutes. Gilpin, in his -excellent treatise, Observations on the River Wye, thus analyzes, -in the second section, the beauties of the “echoing -Vaga,” and divides its constituent parts into—the -steepness of its banks, its mazy course, the ground, woods, and -rocks, which are its native ornaments, and, lastly, the -buildings. To this he might with propriety have added its -echoes, the variety of views from its banks, the fishing -coracles, which are continually on the river; for all these -contribute to form one pleasing and interesting effect.</p> -<p><a name="page309"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 309</span>We -embarked on board our boat a little below the town; and the first -object which drew our attention was the ivy-mantled walls of -Wilton Castle. The annual growth of the few trees which -encircle it will in time render it a more picturesque object; it -is at present so sufficiently seen from the water as not to -require the stranger to disembark for farther inspection. A -few yards below we passed under Wilton Bridge, an elegant -structure of several arches. From hence, for four or five -miles, the banks are tame and uninteresting, and so high above -the river as to prevent a prospect of the adjacent country; but a -group of cattle, some ruminating on the brink, some browzing on -the ashlings which overhung the stream, and others</p> -<blockquote><p>—“From their sides,<br /> -The troublous insects lashing with their tails,<br /> -Returning still,”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>formed a “rural confusion.” The velocity of -the stream shortly brought us to that noble scenery, about four -miles from Ross, which so eminently distinguishes and constitutes -the beauty of the Wye: before us the noble remains of Goodrich -Castle, cresting a steep eminence, enveloped with trees, -presented themselves; behind, the thick foliage of Chase Woods -closed the picture. The happiest gradation of tints, and -the liveliest blending of colours were here conspicuous. On -the right hand we landed on the shore, in order to make a minute -investigation of the castle: it is certainly a grand ruin, and -stands on an eminence, naturally so steep as to render it <a -name="page310"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 310</span>in former -times capable of some resistance against a formidable -enemy. On our first entrance into the ruin we naturally -indulged reflections on past scenes, contemplated the traces of -ancient splendor; and, connecting what remains with what is -destroyed, we pondered on the vanity of human art and the ravages -of time, which exhibit in this ruin their completest -triumph. The warrior who strove to preserve its original -grandeur against the attacks of Cromwell is buried in Walford -Church, situated on the opposite side of the river, and seen from -the castle. The different parts of the building bear -evident marks of its having been erected at various times: from a -seat in the castle-yard is the most advantageous spot for -surveying, in one view, the whole of this ruin: <a -name="citation310"></a><a href="#footnote310" -class="citation">[310]</a> an octagon pillar of light and elegant -workmanship, is seen to great advantage through the gateway, and -adds considerably to the magnificence of this ancient pile: it -now belongs to Dr. Griffin, of Hadnock, the lord of the -manor.</p> -<p>To return to our boat, we took a different and more circuitous -route, for the purpose of inspecting the remains of Goodrich -Priory, now converted into a farm. The chapel has -experienced the same vicissitude; and those walls, which formerly -re-echoed with the chanting of voices and the solemn peal, now -repeat the continued strokes of the flail. In many parts of -the walls the initials of names of persons who have long since -paid the debt of nature, and left behind no other memorial, are -<a name="page311"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 311</span>carved -with characteristic rudeness, showing to every passing stranger -the prevalency of that universal passion—the love of -fame. The Gothic windows, and the cross erected on each end -of the building, show evident marks of its former purpose. -The boat usually meets the passengers at another reach of the -river; but it is a plan by no means to be recommended; since by -missing a circuit round the castle, its different tints and -variety of attitudes, occasioned by one of the boldest sweeps of -the Wye, are entirely lost. A short time after we had taken -our last retrospect of Goodrich Castle, the spire of Ruredean -Church <a name="citation311"></a><a href="#footnote311" -class="citation">[311]</a> appeared in front, just peeping from -among the woody skirts of the forest of Dean; a little below -Courtfield House, belonging to Mr. Vaughan, was seen in a very -picturesque point of view, with the ruins of the chapel, forming -the back-ground. In Courtfield House, tradition reports, -the warlike King Henry the Fifth was nursed; and in the church of -Welsh Bicknor, situated to the right in a noble amphitheatre -enclosed with rocks, first embraced the Christian religion.</p> -<p>A busy scene of craft loading and unloading, and coals -shipping for various parts from the quay at Lidbrook, <a -name="page312"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 312</span>presents a -picture of cheerful activity, and forms a pleasing contrast to -the quiet, rich, and retired spots we had left behind us: such -spots as were well adapted to form the mind of Britain’s -glory—the virtuous Henry. The banks now became richly -clothed with wood, from the summits of the highest rocks to the -water’s edge; and a hill in front, called Rosemary Topping, -from the mellow luxuriance of its sides, closed the -prospect. Almost every sweep presents a new object to -strike the admiration of the spectator; the transitions are -sudden, but never so harsh as to disgust. Even the contrast -between the embellishments of art we had just left, and the wild -rocks which here exhibit nature in her most striking attitudes, -gave an additional impression to each other.</p> -<p>We now reached the fine mass of rocks called Coldwell, one of -which, Symond’s Yacht to the left, it is customary for -company to ascend, in order to view the mazy and circuitous -course of the river, and the extensive prospect around. The -forest of Dean, the counties of Monmouth, Hereford, and -Gloucester, were extended before us, studded with villages, -diversified with clusters of half-visible farm-houses; with many -a grey steeple, “embosomed high in tufted -trees.” In painting the several views from this -summit the happiest description would fail; the impression can -only be conveyed by the eye. The river here makes a most -extraordinary winding round the promontory; and having completed -a circuit of more than five miles, flows a second time -immediately under Symond’s Yatch. <a -name="citation312"></a><a href="#footnote312" -class="citation">[312]</a> The whole of this mazy course -may be traced <a name="page313"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -313</span>from this eminence. From hence we discovered a -very remarkable polysyllabical articulate echo, and we reckoned -twelve distinct reverberations from the explosion of a gun fired -on this spot. It is here again customary for the boatmen to -impose on strangers, and if they can prevail on them, during -their walk to Symond’s Yacht, will take the boat round the -circuit of five miles, and meet them at New Weir, in order that -no time should be lost; but this laziness we by no means -encouraged; and the whole course of this extraordinary and -romantic sweep proved highly gratifying. Goodrich Spire, -which we again wound round, presented itself: huge fragments of -massy rocks which have rolled down from the precipices opposite -Manuck Farm, here almost choked up the course of the -stream. The changing attitudes and various hues of -Symond’s Yacht, lifting its almost spiral head high above -<a name="page314"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 314</span>the -other rocks, as we receded and drew near it, supplied a -combination of tints surprisingly gay and beautiful; and having -accomplished a sweep of five miles, we reached, within a quarter -of a mile, the spot where we began our ascent to this steep -eminence.</p> -<p>The view of New Weir next unfolded itself; but a disagreeable -scene here generally occurs, and interrupts the pleasure of -contemplation: a large assemblage of beggars, men, women, and -children, on the banks, bare-footed and scarcely a rag to cover -them, followed our boat, imploring charity; and several almost -throwing themselves into the water, to catch your money, which -every now and then the bigger seize from the less.</p> -<p>But I have omitted to mention, that before we reached the New -Weir, the spire of Haunton on Wye, cresting a hill at the -extremity of a long reach, and a fantastic barren rock, jutting -out from the green foliage which encircles it, presenting itself -bold and conspicuous, formed prominent and interesting features -in the landscape; this is called Bearcroft, receiving its -appellation from the very respectable and learned counsellor of -that name. Several rocks, indeed, particularly in this part -of the river, are named by the counsel, who have long made it a -practice of exploring the rich and bold scenery of the Wye on -their assize circuit. Gilpin, considering New Weir as the -second grand scene on the Wye, thus describes it:</p> -<p>“The river is wider than usual in this part, and takes a -sweep round a towering promontory of rock, which forms the side -screen on the left, and is the grand feature of the view. -On the right side of the river the bank forms a woody -amphitheatre, following the course of the <a -name="page315"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 315</span>stream -round the promontory: its lower skirts are adorned with a hamlet, -in the midst of which volumes of thick smoke thrown up at -intervals from an iron forge, as its fires receive fresh fuel, -add double grandeur to the scene. But what peculiarly marks -this view is a circumstance on the water: the whole river at this -place makes a precipitate fall, of no great height, indeed, but -enough to merit the name of a cascade, though to the eye above -the stream it is an object of no consequence. In all the -scenes we had yet passed, the water moving with a slow and solemn -pace, the objects around kept time, as it were, with it; and -every steep and every rock which hung over the river was solemn, -tranquil, and majestic. But here the violence of the stream -and the roaring of the waters impressed a new character on the -scene: all was agitation and uproar; and every steep and every -rock stared with wildness and terror.”—The accuracy -and elegance of this description, drawn by so masterly a pen, I -hope will amply compensate for the length of this -quotation. The extensive iron works mentioned in this -passage belong to Mr. Partridge.</p> -<p>Below the New Weir a continuation of the same rich scenery -still arrested our attention, and rocks and wood seemed to -contend which should be most conspicuous; till the winding of the -river round Doward’s Rock, on which was formerly a Roman -station, brought us under the house of Mr. Hatley, which commands -a view of the river as far as Monmouth, when it is terminated by -the town and bridge of six arches. As we drew near</p> -<h3><a name="page316"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -316</span>MONMOUTH,</h3> -<p>the house of Dr. Griffin, situated on an eminence, and a -banqueting-room erected by the inhabitants of the place, appeared -above the town on the left.</p> -<p>The town of Monmouth lies too low to form a grand appearance -from the water, but is, in itself, neat and well-built, and -pleasantly situated on the banks of the Wye. As we repaired -to our inn, we were both involuntarily led to take a retrospect -of the past amusements of the day. The partial gleams of -sunshine had given additional tints to the rich and bold scenery, -and every thing had conspired to render it a most interesting -aquatic excursion. The variety of scenes which Claude would -have selected, had he now existed, for his canvass; with rapture, -too, would he have caught the tints, and with the happiest effect -combined the objects into a picture; kept up our attention, and -removed that sameness which too often accompanies water -excursions. Such has been the pleasure of our first -day’s water expedition; and from the impression it made on -us we eagerly looked forward to some future period when we may -again retrace views which memory will ever hold dear, and the -pleasure be then redoubled with the remembrance of past -occurrences.</p> -<p>Opposite the Beaufort Arms, the most convenient inn in the -town, is the town-house, handsomely built, with a full-length -statue on the outside, facing the street, with this inscription -under it: “Henry the Fifth, born at Monmouth, August the -ninth, 1387.” On the birth of this warlike and -virtuous prince, the charter was granted <a -name="page317"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 317</span>to the town -of Monmouth; it is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, fifteen -aldermen, nine constables, two serjeants, and two beadles. -The castle now bears few vestiges of its former grandeur; and of -the regal dome scarcely a wreck has escaped, through the long -lapse of years, and the ravages of time: where a mighty king once -gave audience, and where vassals knelt, now assemble the animate -appendages of a farm-yard.</p> -<p>Near the castle is a very antiquated house, now converted into -a school, the property of the Duke of Beaufort. To this -town Wihenoc de Monemue, or Monmouth, in the reign of Henry the -First, brought over a convent of Black Monks from St. Florence, -and placed them first in the church of St. Cadoc near the castle, -and after in the church of St. Mary. It was among other -ancient priories seized by the crown during the wars with France, -but was restored again, made denison, and continued till the -general suppression in the reign of King Henry the Eighth. <a -name="citation317"></a><a href="#footnote317" -class="citation">[317]</a> From hence we walked to the -church-yard; close to which is the room where Geoffery of -Monmouth composed his well-known history: this is now a -day-school. Monmouth has likewise to boast of a free-school -founded here from the following curious circumstance; Mr. Jones, -a native of Newland, being in distress, left this parish, and -went to London, where he engaged himself as servant to a Hamburgh -merchant, and proving trusty in his office, he was by degrees -advanced, till at length he attained a fortune of his own. -Willing to prove how far the charity of his native place <a -name="page318"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 318</span>would -extend towards him, in disguise he applied for that relief which -he was enabled to show towards others; but his parish taking no -notice of him, referred him to Monmouth, and would not redress -his pretended complaints; the latter, however, being more -charitably disposed, relieved him according to his wishes. -Having thus proved their generosity, he acquainted them of his -real situation, and promised to repay their kindness by obliging -them in any demand they should request. On this they -solicited the foundation of a free-school, which he immediately -built, liberally endowed, and which, from that time, has been -well supported. The walk to the Folly, we were informed, -would have afforded us some beautiful and extensive prospects; -the whole of which information we should probably have found -true, but the evening closing, we were very reluctantly -necessitated to return to our inn.</p> -<p>Early in the morning we renewed our survey of Monmouth. -The church first demanded notice: it is a handsome structure, but -the inside offers nothing remarkable for the inspection of the -antiquary. The gaol, built after the plan of the benevolent -Howard, is situated in a healthy spot; and in every respect -rendered as commodious and comfortable as such a place will allow -for the unfortunate inhabitants. Monmouth, indeed, contains -several good houses, and the neighbourhood is respectable. -A bridge at the extremity of the town, with the ancient gateway, -bears every mark of antiquity.</p> -<p>The hire of a boat from Monmouth to Chepstow is on the same -plan as from Ross to Monmouth, the distance being nearly -equal. Nothing now remained but to recommence our water -excursion; and we accordingly embarked <a -name="page319"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 319</span>a quarter -of a mile below the town, where the river Monnow joins itself -with the Wye; from hence Monnow-mouth, or Monmouth. The -weather still continued favourable for our schemes: the banks on -the left were at first low, but as we receded from the town, the -spire of Monmouth in the retrospect, with the Kymin Woods rising -from a rock of great height on our left, under which the river -meanders, and to our right Pen-y-vall Hill engaged our attention, -and was the bold and rich scenery we enjoyed on our first -re-embarkation.</p> -<p>The same scenery of rock, wood, and water, which so captivated -us on the preceding day, still continued, occasionally -diversified by light vessels skimming by our boat, and increasing -in number as we approached nearer the sea. The rude hail of -the boatmen as they passed, was re-echoed by the rocks; and the -dingy white sails of the vessels, which soon disappeared round -some bold promontory, were particularly picturesque. -Coleman’s Rocks appeared alternately mantled with underwood -and pointed crags; large fragments scattered in the river here -divide the counties of Monmouth and Gloucester. At Redbrook -Hills, the curling smoke issuing from the iron-works formed a -pleasing accompaniment to the scenery, and the whole exhibited a -picture of industrious labour. These works belong to Mr. -Turner: the wood and meadow-land of Whitebrook Hills were finely -contrasted with the busy scene at Redbrook. From hence a -long reach, with Fidenham Chase Hill, rising conspicuously in the -front, brought us to the village of</p> -<h3><a name="page320"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -320</span>LLANDOGO,</h3> -<p>diversified with cottages from the base to the highest summit -of the sloping eminence. This village is about nine miles -from Monmouth, and arrests particular observation: here vessels -of considerable burden were loading with iron and other -commodities for various ports. The appearance of the river -here changed; the translucent stream, which had hitherto -alternately reflected, as in a mirror, the awful projection of -the rocks, and the soft flowery verdure of its banks, was -affected by the influence of the tide, and rendered turbid and -unpleasant to the sight.</p> -<p>A turn of the river soon brought us to the village of</p> -<h3>TINTERN,</h3> -<p>where we observed the ruins of a mansion, belonging to Mr. -Farmer of Monmouth. This house appears of an old date, and -might probably claim the attention of the curious antiquary, was -he not so wrapt up in contemplating the venerable abbey, which -presents its Gothic pile in solemn majesty. This august -building, great in ruins, and awfully grand in appearance, impels -the stranger, as it were imperceptibly, to land and inspect its -noble arches, tottering pillars, and highly-finished windows: the -specimens of ancient architecture, which formerly were delicately -wrought by the hand of art, are now finely decked by that of -nature. On our first entrance our attention was too much -engrossed to exchange the mutual communication of thought; but -the care which has been officiously taken to remove every -fragment lying scattered <a name="page321"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 321</span>through the immense area of the -fabric, and the smoothness of the shorn grass, which no scythe -should have dared to clip, in a great measure perverts the -character of the scene: these circumstances but ill accord with -the mutilated walls of an ancient ruin, which has braved the -pitiless storms of so many centuries. In this respect we by -no means agreed with Mr. Gilpin, who thus describes it: “We -excuse—perhaps we approve—the neatness that is -introduced within. It may add to the beauty of the -scene—to its novelty it undoubtedly does.” But -when this disgust was a little abated, we indulged those -reflections which scenes of ancient grandeur naturally -recall.</p> -<p>This beautiful ruin is cruciform, measuring two hundred and -thirty feet in length, and thirty-three in breadth; the transept -is one hundred and sixty feet long. <a name="citation321"></a><a -href="#footnote321" class="citation">[321]</a> This -Cistertian Abbey was founded by Walter de Clare, in the year -1131, and dedicated to St. Mary in the reign of King Henry -VIII. It experienced the same fate with many other -monasteries, and was granted at its dissolution to the Earl of -Worcester in the year 1537.</p> -<p>“As the Abbey of Tintern,” says the author of the -Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, “is the -most beautiful and picturesque of all our Gothic monuments, so is -the situation one of the most sequestered and delightful. -One more abounding in that peculiar kind of scenery, which -excites the mingled sensations of content, religion, and -enthusiasm, it is impossible to behold. There every arch -infuses a solemn energy, as it <a name="page322"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 322</span>were, into inanimate nature: a -sublime antiquity breathes mildly into the heart; and the soul, -pure and passionless, appears susceptible of that state of -tranquillity, which is the perfection of every earthly -wish. Never has Colonna wandered among the woods, -surrounding this venerable ruin, standing on the banks of a -river, almost as sacred to the imagination as the spot, where the -Cephisus and the Ilyssus mingle their waters, but he has wished -himself a landscape-painter. He has never sat upon its -broken columns and beheld its mutilated fragments; and its waving -arches and pillars decorated with festoons of ivy; but he has -formed the wish to forsake the world, and resign himself entirely -to the tranquil studies of philosophy. Is there a man, my -Lelius, too rich, too great, too powerful, for these -emotions? Is there one too ignorant, too vain, and too -presumptuous, to indulge them? Envy him not! From him -the pillars of Palmyra would not draw one sigh; the massacre of -Glencoe, the matins of Moscow, or the Sicilian vespers, would -elicit no tear.”</p> -<p>As we receded from the banks, Tintern Abbey, with the Gothic -fret-work of the eastern window, seemingly bound together by the -treillage of ivy, appeared in the most pleasing point of view; -sloping hills and rich woods forming a fine back-ground. As -we drew nearer</p> -<h3>CHEPSTOW,</h3> -<p>some most noble rocks, “Nature’s proud -bastions,” opened upon us to the left, grander than any we -had hitherto admired, and which we had previously determined were -inconceivably fine, and surpassed any idea we had formed of the -channel of this romantic river. To <a -name="page323"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 323</span>add to the -magnificence of the whole, the setting sun tinged the rocks with -the most resplendent colours, and the dewy freshness of the -evening improved the charm of the scene; the one enchanting the -sense, the other refreshing it. The lofty Wynd Cliff to the -right; and Piercefield, with the curious projecting rocks, called -the Twelve Apostles and Peter’s Thumb, heighten, to the -very extent of beauty, this noble view; gratifying beyond measure -to the admirer of nature. Another reach brought us in sight -of Chepstow Castle, on a prominent rock, of which it seemed to -form a part; noble in situation, and grand in appearance. -The handsome new bridge, the rocks, and the scarce visible town, -here made a most charming picture: this we enjoyed exceedingly, -but regretted a few more minutes would set us on shore, and -conclude our excursion on the Wye; an excursion, which, the -farther we proceeded the more we were interested; and so much so, -as to determine a renewal of this pleasing tour another -summer. The former wooden bridge over the Wye at this place -was of very singular construction; the boards forming the -flooring were all designedly loose, but prevented by pegs, -fastened at the extremities of them, from being carried away by -the tide, and by that ingenious contrivance they gradually rose -and fell with it. The tide is here frequently known to rise -to the extraordinary height of seventy feet.</p> -<p>Not having visited the church in consequence of the bad -weather at the commencement of our tour, we determined now to -inspect it. The entrance through the western door is an -elegant specimen of Saxon architecture, richly wrought, with -three arches; in the inside is <a name="page324"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 324</span>the monument of Henry Marten, one of -the regicides who presided at the condemnation of King Charles -I., and was confined in the castle twenty years. It -contains also a cenotaph to the memory of the Marquis of -Worcester, and a tomb dated 1620, to the memory of Mrs. Clayton -and her two husbands, who are both represented as kneeling. -This church originally belonged to the alien Benedictine priory -of Strigule, but was converted at the Reformation into the parish -church of Chepstow.</p> -<p>Admittance to the celebrated walks of Piercefield can only be -obtained on Tuesdays and Fridays. To survey these with that -attention which they deserve, would occupy several hours; the -liveliest description cannot do justice to the rich and bold -scenery, with all its accompaniments; the eye can alone receive -the impression; for,</p> -<blockquote><p>“How long soe’er the wand’rer -roves, each step<br /> -Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents<br /> -A diff’rent picture; new, and yet the same.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“The winding of the precipice,” says Gilpin, -“is the magical secret by which all these enchanting scenes -are produced.” At one point, both above and below, as -far as the eye can reach, rolls in majestic windings the river -Wye: at another, the Severn, hastening to meet “its sister -river,” is discovered, till at last they are both lost in -the Bristol Channel: at another, these scenes are concealed, and -thick woods, apparently coeval with time itself, and a long range -of rock, burst upon “the wanderer” with irresistible -beauty and attraction. The occasional recurrence also of -the rude beach, overshadowed <a name="page325"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 325</span>by some umbrageous tree, and -concealed from the steep precipice below by thick underwood, -allow only glimpses of the surrounding scenery.</p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p>I have thus brought my tour to a conclusion; a tour, which has -been productive of much amusement, and, I hope, not entirely -devoid of advantage. It only remains, therefore, for me to -add, that the two friends, having completed a pedestrian circuit -of near eight hundred miles, parted with mutual regret, jointly -exclaiming,</p> -<blockquote><p>“Cambria, as thy romantic vales we leave,<br -/> -And bid farewell to each retiring hill,<br /> -Where fond attention seems to linger still,<br /> -Tracing the broad bright landscape; much we grieve<br /> -That mingled with the toiling crowd, no more<br /> -We may return thy varied views to mark.”</p> -</blockquote> -<h2><a name="page327"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -327</span>SONNETS.</h2> -<h3>SONNET I. TO FRIENDSHIP.</h3> -<p class="gutsumm"><span class="GutSmall">ADDRESSED TO THE -COMPANION OF MY TOUR.</span></p> -<p class="poetry">O balmy comfort through this varied maze<br /> -Of life! thou best physician to the breast,<br /> -With deep affliction’s venom’d sting opprest,<br /> -A thousand arts, a thousand winning ways<br /> -Are thine, to smooth the rugged brow of care,<br /> -And mitigate misfortune’s keenest hour:<br /> -Yes, A. . . ., partner of my Cambrian Tour,<br /> -Friend of my heart, how gladly do I share<br /> -Thy confidence; whate’er my part may be<br /> -Hereafter, on this shifting stage of life,<br /> -This busy theatre of jarring strife,<br /> -May health and happiness attend both thee<br /> -And thine!—on One, thy heavenly Guardian, trust,<br /> -Nor doubt protection—all His ways are just.</p> -<h3><a name="page328"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -328</span>SONNET II.<br /> -THE CONTRAST OF YESTERDAY AND TO-DAY.</h3> -<p class="gutsumm"><span class="GutSmall">SUPPOSED TO BE WRITTEN -ON THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON.</span></p> -<p class="poetry">How gay was yesterday!—no storm was -heard<br /> -To mutter round thy steep—yon sun arose<br /> -With golden splendour, and in still repose<br /> -Nature majestic through her works appear’d.<br /> -To-day how changed—loud howls the hollow blast!<br /> -The thin mists undulate! thy towering height<br /> -Is veil’d in tempest and eternal night!<br /> -So ’tis with man! contrasting prospects past<br /> -With dreams of future happiness—to-day<br /> -In gallant trim his little bark may glide<br /> -On the smooth current of the tranquil tide:<br /> -To-morrow comes!—the gathering storms display<br /> -A sad vicissitude—the whirlwind’s sweep<br /> -Grasps at its prey, and whelms it in the deep.</p> -<h3><a name="page329"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -329</span>SONNET III.<br /> -ON LEAVING WALES.</h3> -<p class="poetry">Why bursts the tear, as, Cambria, now I -leave<br /> -Thy wild variety of dale and hill,<br /> -Where fancy, fond intruder, lingers still?<br /> -Why do these parting sighs my bosom heave?<br /> -’Tis that, alas! I ne’er may view again<br /> -Those haunts, those solitary scenes I love;<br /> -But through this vale of tears forsaken rove,<br /> -And taste the sad vicissitudes of pain:<br /> -’Tis that I sadly breathe a warm adieu<br /> -To long-lost scenes of mutual amity;<br /> -’Tis that I turn, my absent friend, to thee,<br /> -“Think on past pleasures, and solicit new!”<br /> -For thee my fervent prayers to heaven ascend,<br /> -And may we meet again as friend to friend.</p> -<h3><a name="page330"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -330</span>SONNET IV.<br /> -TO THE WELSH HARP.</h3> -<p class="poetry">Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds,<br -/> -Those plaintive airs, that through my senses steal<br /> -With melancholy sweet. Their pow’r I feel<br /> -Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.<br /> -Gently thou lull’st my sufferings to repose,<br /> -Inclin’st my heart to every virtuous deed;<br /> -Removing from my mind each dark’ning shade<br /> -That clouds my days, increasing all my woes.<br /> -Now swelling with the breeze, along thy vales,<br /> -Romantic Cambria! the strain I hear,<br /> -Then dying soft away, comes o’er my ear<br /> -In whispers soft, still wafted by thy gales!<br /> -Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds,<br /> -Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.</p> -<h3><a name="page331"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -331</span>SONNET V.</h3> -<p class="gutsumm"><span class="GutSmall">SUPPOSED TO BE WRITTEN -BY MOON-LIGHT, ON THE SEA-SHORE AT TENBY.</span></p> -<blockquote><p>I love to mark the silver-curling spray<br /> -Just kiss the pebbled shore; the zephyr blows,<br /> -And ocean slumbers in serene repose;<br /> -While the moon’s beams in quiv’ring radiance play<br -/> -Upon its surface: yet ere long, that tide<br /> -May heave its foaming billows to the shore,<br /> -And the sea boil in one tempestuous roar.<br /> -See here thy picture, man! reason, thy guide,<br /> -Can lull each gust of passion into rest!<br /> -Her aid divine, her energy once lost,<br /> -In what a sea of angry tumults tost,<br /> -Raves the mad whirlwind of thy troubled breast!<br /> -Blind passion then can reason’s aid refute,<br /> -And degradate the man to worse than brute.</p> -</blockquote> -<h3><a name="page332"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -332</span>SONNET VI.<br /> -ON SEEING LLANGOLLEN VALE.</h3> -<p class="poetry">O thou, too captious of each airy scheme,<br /> -Fancy! thou dear delusive traitor, say,<br /> -Are not thy charms the phantoms of a day,<br /> -That mock possession, like a fleeting dream?<br /> -Here could I spend, if such had been my lot,<br /> -Quiet my life; nor should the shiv’ring poor<br /> -Depart unfed, unaided, from my door.<br /> -“Content is wealth,” the emblem of my cot.<br /> -Here, by the brook, that gently babbles by,<br /> -Should stand my garden; there, the blushing rose<br /> -And woodbine should their sweetest scent disclose.<br /> -But ah! farewell these dreams;—my big full eye<br /> -Swells with the bursting tear—I think, how few<br /> -The road to real happiness pursue!</p> -<h3><a name="page333"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -333</span>SONNET VII.<br /> -PROSPECT OF SUN-RISE FROM SNOWDON.</h3> -<p class="poetry">How grand the scene from this stupendous -height!<br /> -How awfully sublime! the king of day<br /> -Flames in the east; old Ocean’s waves display<br /> -One globe of fire! one boundless flood of light!<br /> -With what unclouded lustre blaze the skies!<br /> -While Mona’s flats tinged with a golden hue,<br /> -Burst with transcendant beauty on the view;<br /> -And, Man, <a name="citation333"></a><a href="#footnote333" -class="citation">[333]</a> thy scarce seen mountains proudly -rise.<br /> -Nature beneath seems prostrate; and my sight<br /> -Can hardly grasp the vast immensity!<br /> -Can then the muse attempt to sing of thee,<br /> -Nature’s great God! Father of life and light!<br /> -Who bade the sun his annual circle roll,<br /> -Who guides, directs, and animates the whole.</p> -<h3><a name="page334"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -334</span>SONNET VIII.<br /> -TO MY DOG.</h3> -<p class="poetry">Yes, thou hast been companion of my Tour,<br /> -And partner of my toils! hast rov’d with me<br /> -Through Cambria’s rude and wild variety,<br /> -And often sooth’d the solitary hour<br /> -With thy caresses: yet false man can claim<br /> -Superior reason, claim a mind endued<br /> -With love, with faithfulness and gratitude;<br /> -Love a mere sound, and gratitude a name.<br /> -Yes, faithful creature! and when thou art gone,<br /> -With fond attention shall thy bones be laid;<br /> -And a small tribute to thy memory paid<br /> -In these few words, engraven on thy stone:<br /> -“Here let in peace the faithful Sylvio lie,<br /> -The truest picture of fidelity.”</p> -<h2><i>CHART TO THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST.</i></h2> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p><b>Best Inns.</b></p> -</td> -<td><p><b>Counties.</b></p> -</td> -<td><p><b>Miles.</b></p> -</td> -<td><p><b>Route.</b></p> -</td> -<td><p><b>Objects most worthy of Attention—Rivers and noted -Bridges.</b></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><b>Page.</b></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Star, Angel, King’s Arms, and Roebuck</p> -</td> -<td><p>Oxford</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p>Oxford</p> -</td> -<td><p>Halls, Colleges, and Libraries, Heythrop (Earl of -Shrewsbury), Nuneham Courtney (Earl Harcourt), Blenheim</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page1">1</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plough, Fleece, and George Hotel</p> -</td> -<td><p>Gloucester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cheltenham</p> -</td> -<td><p>Pump Rooms and Walks, Rooms, seat of Earl of Fauconberg, -Cleavehill, Dowdeswell, &c. &c.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hop Pole, Star and Garter</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tewkesbury</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cathedral</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page9">9</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bell, Booth-Hall, King’s Head</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10½</p> -</td> -<td><p>Gloucester</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ditto, Pin Manufactory, Isle of Alney, Gaol, Severn, -Drawbridge, called Westgate</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page11">11</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bush, Full Moon, Talbot, &c. &c.</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bristol</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ditto, St. Mary Redcliffe Church, St. Vincent’s -Rocks and Clifton, King’s Weston, and Lord de -Clifford’s, Lamplighters’ Hall, and King’s -Road</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page13">13</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bear</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p>Newnham</p> -</td> -<td><p>Garden Cliff at Westbury, Flaxley Abbey, Churchyard, View -from</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page23">23</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>White Swan</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -<td><p>Lidney</p> -</td> -<td><p>Iron-works, Pitchcock’s</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page25">25</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaufort Arms, Three Cranes</p> -</td> -<td><p>Monmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p>Chepstow</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Church, Piercefield, one mile from Chepstow, -Llancaut Cliffs, Wye, and New Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page25">25</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page322">322</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>King’s Head, Westgate, and Parrot</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Newport</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between C. and N. Caldecot Castle, Caerwent Pavement, -Ruins of Caerleon), Usk, New Bridge, Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page28">28</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p>—</p> -</td> -<td><p>Monmouth, Ragland Castle and Church, Usk, Llangibby -Castle, View, Caerleon, St. Julians</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page29">29</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Angel, Cardiff Arms, &c.</p> -</td> -<td><p>Glamorgan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11¼</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cardiff</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tredegar House, boundary of England and Wales, Cardiff -Castle, Gaol, Bridge, and Taff</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page34">34</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -<td><p>Landaff</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cathedral, St. Fajans</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page37">37</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Boar’s Head</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -<td><p>Caerphily</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Thorn Hill, and View</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page39">39</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Treherne’s Hotel</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -<td><p>Merthyr</p> -</td> -<td><p>Vale of Glamorgan, Pont-d-Pridd Iron-works the largest in -the kingdom</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page41">41</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Angel</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -<td><p>Pont Neath Vechan</p> -</td> -<td><p>Falls of Scotenogarm, Lower and Upper Culliepste, -Lady’s Cascade, Porthogo Cavern, Bwr Maen, Purthen and -Neath Rivers</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page47">47</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ship and Castle</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -<td><p>Neath</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between P. N. and Aberdulas and Melincourt Waterfalls, -the Knole) Abbey, Castle, and Copper-works</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page50">50</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mackworth Arms</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -<td><p>Swansea</p> -</td> -<td><p>(View at Britton Ferry,) Castle, Pottery, Tawe, Harbour, -and Piers, New Walk and Rooms</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page53">53</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pot-House</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cheriton</p> -</td> -<td><p>Oystermouth Castle, Oxwich Bay, Penrice, King -Arthur’s Stone</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page57">57</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ditto</p> -</td> -<td><p>Caermarthen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Kidwely</p> -</td> -<td><p>Llanelly Church, Kidwely Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page59">59</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ivy Bush, Boar’s Head</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p>Caermarthen</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Tin Works, Bridge over the Towy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page60">60</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Castle</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12¼</p> -</td> -<td><p>Llaugharne</p> -</td> -<td><p>Llaugharne Castle, Caermarthen Bay</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page67">67</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cobourg Hotel</p> -</td> -<td><p>Pembroke</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tenby</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between L. and T. Green Bridge, a curious excavation in -the Rock) Castle, Church, Rocks, Walls, &c.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page68">68</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Green Dragon</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p>Pembroke</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Bridge, sail round Milford Haven, to Hubberstone, -Tour by Mr. Fenton, &c. &c.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page73">73</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hotel</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Milford</p> -</td> -<td><p>Dock Yards, Observatory, &c.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page82">82</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>—</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p>Tenby</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page83">83</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Blue Boar, Castle</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p>Haverfordwest</p> -</td> -<td><p>Carew Castle, Cresseley, Landshipping, Picton Castle, -Slebitch and Church, Priory at the end of the Parade</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page87">87</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Black Lion</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>St. David’s</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between H. and R. Castle, St. Bride’s Bay) -Cathedral, Bishop’s Palace; Rocking Stone, two miles from -St. David’s</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Fishguard</p> -</td> -<td><p>In your way, take the place where the French landed, Gwain -River</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page95">95</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -<td><p>Newport</p> -</td> -<td><p>Two miles from N. Druidical Monuments</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page97">97</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Black Lion</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cardigan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cardigan</p> -</td> -<td><p>Velindre, Tin Works, Kilgerran Castle, River Tyvi, Castle, -Church, St. Doegmal’s Abbey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page100">100</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Good Accommodation</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -<td><p>Aberaeron</p> -</td> -<td><p>Druidical Monuments and Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page101">101</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Talbot, Gogerthan Arms</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p>Aberystwith</p> -</td> -<td><p>Fine Views, Llanrysted, Llanryan Bridge, Castle, and walk -round, Lead Mines</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page102">102</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Havod Arms</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p>Havod</p> -</td> -<td><p>Devil’s Bridge, Fall of the Rhyddol, of the Mynach, -Havod House and Grounds</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page112">112</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Eagles</p> -</td> -<td><p>Montgomery</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p>Plinlimmon, source of the Severn, &c. Owen -Glyndwr’s Mansion, Dovey River, Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page121">121</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Blue Lion</p> -</td> -<td><p>Merioneth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p>Talylyn</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between M. and T. Dyflas River) Cader Idris, Pool of -Three Grains</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page123">123</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Lion, Ship, Angel</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Dolgelly</p> -</td> -<td><p>Beautiful situation, Avon-vwar River, excursions to the -Vale of the Dee, Caer Gai at the end of the Lake of Bala, and -Dinas y Mowddwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page124">124</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corsy-Gedol Arms</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p>From D. to B. extremely interesting, pleasant walks on the -sands, and likewise on the hills over the town</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page134">134</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Inn</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p>Harlech</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, a golden Torques dug up in 1682 (between B. and H. -Corsy Gedol)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page137">137</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p>By Dolgelly to Travellers’ Rest, Fall of Doly -Melynllyn, Ditto Cayne and Moddach, Vale of Festiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page139">139</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td><p>Merioneth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tan-y-bwlch by Dolgelly and Falls</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tan-y-bwlch Hall, Vale of Festiniog, River Dayryd, -Maentwrog, Tremadoc</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page146">146</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p>Criccaeth</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tany-yr-alet, Castle, excursion by sea to the Isle of -Bardsey, pass a Bay called Hell’s Mouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page149">149</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p>Bardsey</p> -</td> -<td><p>Fine view of the coast, Abbot’s House and Chapel</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page151">151</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Crown and Anchor</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p>Pwlheli</p> -</td> -<td><p>About five miles from P. Carn-Madryn, an ancient -fortress</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page157">157</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Goat, a good Inn</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p>Several Cromlechs, Penmorfa, Tremadoc, and embankments, -Morva Lodge, Pont Aber Glaslyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page164">164</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -<td><p>Snowdon</p> -</td> -<td><p>Beddgelert Church and Vale, V. of Nanhwynan, and Dinas -Emrys, Pass of Drwsycoed, ascent and view from Snowdon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page170">170</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Anglesea Arms and Goat</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p>Vale of Llanberries, Dolbadern Castle, Two Lakes, Caunant -Mawr, and Caer cwm-y Glô, bridge over the Seiont, Castle, -Chapel, ruins of Segontium, ancient Fort on the Seiont, &c. -&c.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page185">185</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td><p>Anglesea</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -<td><p>Plâs Newydd</p> -</td> -<td><p>Fine view of the Menai, the elegant new mansion, Cromlechs -and Carnedd, Saunderson’s Cottage</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page191">191</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penrhyn Arms, Castle, and Albion Hotel</p> -</td> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bangor, from P. N.</p> -</td> -<td><p>Beautiful situation of, Cathedral, view from the -Church-yard, recent improvements, Bridge over the Menai, -&c.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page199">199</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bull’s Head</p> -</td> -<td><p>Anglesea</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p>Fine views from the new road, Castle, Church, Baron Hill, -the Friars, Priestholme Island</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page210">210</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ty Mawr</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Amlwch</p> -</td> -<td><p>Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, pretty village and church of -Pentraeth, Llanelian, Pary’s Mountain</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page217">217</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Eagle and Child and Hibernian-Hotel</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p>The Church, and walls of the Church-yard, new Pier, cavern -called the Parliament House. The steam packets</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page218">218</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penrhyn Arms, Castle, and Albion Hotel</p> -</td> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p>Excursion to Penrhyn Castle, Slate Quarries, Lime Grove, -Llandegai Church, Ogwen Bank, Benglog, &c. about 20 miles</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page221">221</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Harp and Newborough Arms</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Aber and the Lavan Sands, Pen-maen-mawr,) at Conway the -Castle, Plâs Mawr, Abbey, College</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page240">240</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ditto</p> -</td> -<td><p>Excursion to Caer Rhun, Rhaiadar Mawr, Llanrwst, Falls of -the Conway and Machno, about 40 miles</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page244">244</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bee Inn</p> -</td> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p>Abergele by the Cridden</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Dinas Gonway, Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, the Orme’s -head, Gywddno’s Weir, Cavern-arago,) Walk on the sands</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page250">250</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>White Lion</p> -</td> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between A. and St. A. Rhuddlan Marsh,) Cathedral and view -from its tower, Bishop’s Palace and Deanery</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page252">252</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>White Horse and King’s Arms</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between St. A. and H. the value of Clywd; to the right a -Roman Pharos;) St. Winifred’s Well, various Mills; one mile -and a quarter north, Ruins of Basing-werk Abbey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page255">255</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Royal Oak</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Goal, and Smelting-house, (between F. and Chester -ruins of Euloe Castle and Hawarden ditto)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page256">256</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Coach and Horses, Hotel, Feathers, Hop Pole, &c. -&c.</p> -</td> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Walls, Rows, Bishop’s Palace, Hypocaust, -Gaol, and near C. Eaton Hall and Park</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page258">258</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Black Lion and Leeswood Arms</p> -</td> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11¾</p> -</td> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p>Church Ruins of the Castle, Cotton Spinning Mills, and -near M. the Leeswoods and famous Iron Gates, Rhual</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page267">267</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Crown and Black Bull</p> -</td> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16¼</p> -</td> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p>(From M. to D. visit Kilken Church, Moel Famma,) Castle -and fine view of the Vale of Clwyd, old Church</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page271">271</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cross Keys, White Lion</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between D. and R. Well of St. Dyfnog,) Castle, Church, -Gaol, Bowling-green, Vale of Clwyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page273">273</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Eagles, Red Lion</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p>Church, Offa’s Dyke, Erthig the seat of P. Yorke, -Esq., Church of Marchwiel</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page276">276</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ruabon</p> -</td> -<td><p>Wynnstay Park, Obelisk, Offa’s Dyke, (between R. and -Llangollen, Pontcyscylltir, Aqueduct and River Dee)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page280">280</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hand, King’s Head</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bridge over the Dee, Castle Dinas Brân, Lady E. -Butler’s Cottage, Valle Crucis Abbey, Pillar of Eliseg</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page284">284</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wynnstay Arms, Cross Keys</p> -</td> -<td><p>Salop</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between L. and O. Chirk Castle, Aqueduct, Whittington,) -Ruins of a Chapel, Castle, Church</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page291">291</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Royal Oak, Bear</p> -</td> -<td><p>Montgomery</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p>Welsh Pool</p> -</td> -<td><p>Between O. and W. Llanymynach Hill, Breddin, -Rodney’s Column, Virnwy River, Powis Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page294">294</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dragon</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p>Montgomery</p> -</td> -<td><p>Between W. P. and M. fine view from the tower of Cherbury -Church, Castle and Gaol, Ellesmere Canal</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page295">295</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Castle</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bishop’s Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p>Does not present any thing to detain the Traveller; midway -between B. C. and L. is an excellent Inn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page296">296</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Crown, Angel</p> -</td> -<td><p>Hereford</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ludlow</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Church, Cross, Walks round the Castle Walls, -Bridge, Teme River</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page297">297</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Red Lion, Crown, King’s Arms</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -<td><p>Leominster</p> -</td> -<td><p>Market House, Church</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page304">304</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>City Arms, Green Dragon, &c.</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p>Hereford</p> -</td> -<td><p>Cathedral, Castle, Walks, Gaol, Wye, new Market House</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page305">305</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>King’s Arms, King’s Head</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td style='vertical-align: middle' rowspan='2'><p -style="text-align: right">down the Wye.</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ross</p> -</td> -<td><p>Splendid monument in the Church, View from the Prospect, -Wilton Castle, and Bridge, Wye</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page306">306</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaufort Arms, King’s Head</p> -</td> -<td><p>Monmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p>Monmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Between Ross and M. Goodrich Castle, Symond’s -Yatch, Courtfield House, New Wier,) Castle Priory, Town Hall, -Walk to Monmouth Folly, Wye, Duke of Beaufort’s</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page316">316</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaufort Arms, Three Cranes</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">50</p> -</td> -<td><p>Chepstow</p> -</td> -<td><p>Castle, Church, Piercefield, one mile from Chepstow, -Llancaut Cliff, Wye, New Bridge, between M. and C. Llandago, -Tintern Abbey, Wyn Cliff, a corruption from Wye Cliff</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page322">322</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h2><a name="page335"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -335</span>INDEX.</h2> -<p>Aber, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page232">232</a></span></p> -<p>Aberaeron, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page101">101</a></span></p> -<p>Aber Garth Celyn, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page233">233</a></span></p> -<p>Abergele, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page250">250</a></span></p> -<p>Aberystwith, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page102">102</a></span></p> -<p>Alney, Isle of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page13">13</a></span></p> -<p>Amlwch, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page212">212</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page217">217</a></span></p> -<p>Anglesea, or Mona, Isle of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page206">206</a></span></p> -<p>Avon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page19">19</a></span></p> -<p>Aust, or Old Passage, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page22">22</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Bachegraig, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page269">269</a></span></p> -<p>Bangor, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page199">199</a></span></p> -<p>Bardsey, Isle of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page150">150</a></span></p> -<p>Barmouth, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page134">134</a></span></p> -<p>Baron Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page210">210</a></span></p> -<p>Bearcroft Rock, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page314">314</a></span></p> -<p>Beaumaris, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page210">210</a></span></p> -<p>Beddgelert, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page164">164</a></span></p> -<p>Benglog, Cataracts of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page227">227</a></span></p> -<p>Bishop’s Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page296">296</a></span></p> -<p>Blenheim, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page5">5</a></span></p> -<p>Bodfari, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page269">269</a></span></p> -<p>Bodscallan, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page249">249</a></span></p> -<p>Bosherton Meer, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page76">76</a></span></p> -<p>Brecon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page64">64</a></span></p> -<p>Breddin Hills and Column, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page294">294</a></span></p> -<p>Bristol, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page13">13</a></span></p> -<p>Britton Ferry, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page52">52</a></span></p> -<p>Brynkir, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page159">159</a></span></p> -<p>Bully Bear, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page76">76</a></span></p> -<p>Burford, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Cader Idris, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page130">130</a></span></p> -<p>Caerleon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page32">32</a></span></p> -<p>Caermarthen, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page60">60</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page66">66</a></span></p> -<p>Caernarvon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page185">185</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page195">195</a></span></p> -<p>Caerphily, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page39">39</a></span></p> -<p>Caer Rhun, or Canovium, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page244">244</a></span></p> -<p>Caerwent, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page27">27</a></span></p> -<p>Caerwys, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page270">270</a></span></p> -<p>Caldecot Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page26">26</a></span></p> -<p>Cannant Mawr, Waterfall of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page184">184</a></span></p> -<p>Capel Curig, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page226">226</a></span></p> -<p>Cardiff, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page34">34</a></span></p> -<p>Cardigan, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page100">100</a></span></p> -<p>Carew Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page72">72</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page84">84</a></span></p> -<p>Carreg, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page254">254</a></span></p> -<p>Castle Dinas Brân, or Crow Castle, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page286">286</a></span></p> -<p><a name="page336"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -336</span>Castle Morlais, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page46">46</a></span></p> -<p>Castleton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> -<p>Cayne, Falls of the, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page141">141</a></span></p> -<p>Cheltenham, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> -<p>Chepstow, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page25">25</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page322">322</a></span></p> -<p>Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page78">78</a></span></p> -<p>Cheriton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page57">57</a></span></p> -<p>Chester, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page258">258</a></span></p> -<p>Chirk, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page286">286</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page289">289</a></span></p> -<p>Christchurch, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page27">27</a></span></p> -<p>Clawdh Offa, or Offa’s Dyke, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page281">281</a></span></p> -<p>Cleave Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page7">7</a></span></p> -<p>Clenenney, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page159">159</a></span></p> -<p>Clifton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page20">20</a></span></p> -<p>Cold Blow, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page66">66</a></span></p> -<p>Coldwell Rocks, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page312">312</a></span></p> -<p>Coleman’s Rocks, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page319">319</a></span></p> -<p>Conway, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page240">240</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page246">246</a></span></p> -<p>Courtfield House, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page311">311</a></span></p> -<p>Cresseley, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page85">85</a></span></p> -<p>Criccaeth, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page149">149</a></span></p> -<p>Crickhowel, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page63">63</a></span></p> -<p>Cridden, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page248">248</a></span></p> -<p>Culhepste, Upper and Lower, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page48">48</a></span></p> -<p>Cwmdu, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page63">63</a></span></p> -<p>Cwmgu, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page64">64</a></span></p> -<p>Cynvel, Pulpit of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page148">148</a></span></p> -<p>Cyttiau Gwyddelod, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page238">238</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>David’s, Saint, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -<p>Dee River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page281">281</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page282">282</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page283">283</a></span></p> -<p>Denbigh, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page271">271</a></span></p> -<p>Devil’s Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page107">107</a></span></p> -<p>Dinevawr, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page65">65</a></span></p> -<p>Dolbadern Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page184">184</a></span></p> -<p>Dolgelly, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page124">124</a></span></p> -<p>Dolwyddelan Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page159">159</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page247">247</a></span></p> -<p>Dol-y-melynlln, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page141">141</a></span></p> -<p>Dovey River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page122">122</a></span></p> -<p>Doward’s Rock, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page315">315</a></span></p> -<p>Dowdeswell, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page7">7</a></span></p> -<p>Downing, (Mr. Pennant’s) <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page254">254</a></span></p> -<p>Downton Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page304">304</a></span></p> -<p>Drwsycoed, Pass of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page169">169</a></span></p> -<p>Dwygyfchi, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page237">237</a></span></p> -<p>Dyflas River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page122">122</a></span></p> -<p>Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page248">248</a></span></p> -<p>Dynas Brân, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page286">286</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Eaton Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page260">260</a></span></p> -<p>Eisteddfod, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page270">270</a></span></p> -<p>Eryri, or Creigaúr Eryri, (Snowdoniana) description of, -<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page178">178</a></span></p> -<p>Euloe Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page257">257</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Fauconberg, Earl of, the seat of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page7">7</a></span></p> -<p>Festiniog, Vale of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page146">146</a></span></p> -<p>Fidenham Chase Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page319">319</a></span></p> -<p>Fishguard, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page95">95</a></span></p> -<p>Flaxley Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page23">23</a></span></p> -<p>Flint, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page256">256</a></span></p> -<p>Forest of Deane, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page312">312</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Glamorgan, Vale of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page40">40</a></span></p> -<p>Glocester, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page11">11</a></span></p> -<p>Gloddaith, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page249">249</a></span></p> -<p>Goodrich Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page311">311</a></span></p> -<p>Goodrich Priory, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page310">310</a></span></p> -<p>Gored Wyddno, or Gywddno’s Weir, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page248">248</a></span></p> -<p>Gosddinog, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page235">235</a></span></p> -<p>Great Orme’s Head, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page249">249</a></span></p> -<p>Green Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page67">67</a></span></p> -<p>Grongar Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page66">66</a></span></p> -<p>Gwddu Glâs, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page237">237</a></span></p> -<p><a name="page337"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -337</span>Gwydir House, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page246">246</a></span></p> -<p>Gwyndy, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page221">221</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Harlech, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page136">136</a></span></p> -<p>Haverfordwest, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page87">87</a></span></p> -<p>Havod, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page112">112</a></span></p> -<p>Haunton-on-Wye, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page314">314</a></span></p> -<p>Hawarden Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page257">257</a></span></p> -<p>Hênllan, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> -<p>Heythrop, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page5">5</a></span></p> -<p>Hereford, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page305">305</a></span></p> -<p>Holyhead, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page218">218</a></span></p> -<p>Holywell, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page253">253</a></span></p> -<p>Hubberston, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page81">81</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page136">136</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Iestingtown, or Iseton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Kidwelly, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page59">59</a></span></p> -<p>Kilgerran Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page97">97</a></span></p> -<p>Kilken, the Church of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page268">268</a></span></p> -<p>King John, cruelty of, to the Jews, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page15">15</a></span></p> -<p>King’s Weston, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page20">20</a></span></p> -<p>Knole Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page50">50</a></span></p> -<p>Kymin Woods, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page319">319</a></span></p> -<p>Kymmer Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page133">133</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Landshipping, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page85">85</a></span></p> -<p>Lantphey Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page73">73</a></span></p> -<p>Leeswood, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page267">267</a></span></p> -<p>Leominster, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page304">304</a></span></p> -<p>Lidbrook Quay, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page311">311</a></span></p> -<p>Lidney, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page25">25</a></span></p> -<p>Linney Point, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page76">76</a></span></p> -<p>Llanarth, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page101">101</a></span></p> -<p>Llanbadem Vawr, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page107">107</a></span></p> -<p>Llanbeblic, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page188">188</a></span></p> -<p>Llanberris, Vale of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page177">177</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page184">184</a></span></p> -<p>Llandaff, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page37">37</a></span></p> -<p>Llandogo, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page320">320</a></span></p> -<p>Llandegai, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page225">225</a></span></p> -<p>Llandovery, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page64">64</a></span></p> -<p>Llandudno, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page250">250</a></span></p> -<p>Llanelian, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page214">214</a></span></p> -<p>Llanelly, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page59">59</a></span></p> -<p>Llanettyd, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page133">133</a></span></p> -<p>Llanfair, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page213">213</a></span></p> -<p>Llanfairfechin, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page240">240</a></span></p> -<p>Llangoed, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page236">236</a></span></p> -<p>Llangollen, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page284">284</a></span></p> -<p>Llanruth, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page274">274</a></span></p> -<p>Llanstaphan Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page66">66</a></span></p> -<p>Llanstundwy, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page157">157</a></span></p> -<p>Llanwrst, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page246">246</a></span></p> -<p>Llanymynach, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page292">292</a></span></p> -<p>Llaugharne, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page67">67</a></span></p> -<p>Llewini Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page271">271</a></span></p> -<p>Llyn Ogwen, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page229">229</a></span></p> -<p>Loughor, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page59">59</a></span></p> -<p>Ludlow, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page297">297</a></span></p> -<p>Lysdin, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page159">159</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Machynlleth, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page121">121</a></span></p> -<p>Maenwrog, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page146">146</a></span></p> -<p>Maen y Campiau, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page238">238</a></span></p> -<p>Maes Garmon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page268">268</a></span></p> -<p>Malvern Hills, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page11">11</a></span></p> -<p>Mannorbeer Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page72">72</a></span></p> -<p>Manuck Farm, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page313">313</a></span></p> -<p>March Wiel, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page278">278</a></span></p> -<p>Mawddach, River and Fall of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page141">141</a></span></p> -<p>Menai, straits of, and ferries over, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page187">187</a></span>, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page191">191</a></span>, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page192">192</a></span></p> -<p>—, bridge over, description of, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page202">202</a></span></p> -<p>Merion Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page76">76</a></span></p> -<p>Merthyr Tydvil, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page42">42</a></span></p> -<p>Milford and Haven, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page80">80</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page82">82</a></span></p> -<p>Moel Arthur, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page269">269</a></span></p> -<p>Moel Famma and Column, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page268">268</a></span></p> -<p><a name="page338"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 338</span>Mold, -<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page267">267</a></span></p> -<p>Mona, or Anglesea, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page206">206</a></span></p> -<p>Monkton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> -<p>Monmouth, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page316">316</a></span></p> -<p>Monnow River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page319">319</a></span></p> -<p>Montgomery, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page233">233</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page295">295</a></span></p> -<p>Mumbles, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page56">56</a></span></p> -<p>Mynach, Falls of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page108">108</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page109">109</a></span></p> -<p>—, bridge over the, or Devil’s Bridge, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page107">107</a></span>, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page108">108</a></span></p> -<p>Mynydd Caer Leon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page244">244</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Nangle, Bay of, and Village, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> -<p>Nanhwynan, Vale of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page169">169</a></span></p> -<p>Nanlley, Lake of, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page169">169</a></span></p> -<p>Nanneau Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page133">133</a></span></p> -<p>Nant, Ffrancon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page227">227</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page229">229</a></span></p> -<p>Natives of Eryri, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page178">178</a></span></p> -<p>—, Courtships, Marriages, &c. of, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page180">180</a></span></p> -<p>—, modes of burying, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page182">182</a></span></p> -<p>Neath, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page50">50</a></span></p> -<p>Nevin, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page189">189</a></span></p> -<p>Newgin, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page88">88</a></span></p> -<p>Newnham, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page25">25</a></span></p> -<p>New Passage, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page22">22</a></span></p> -<p>Newport (Monmouth) <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page34">34</a></span></p> -<p>Newport (Pembrokeshire) <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page97">97</a></span></p> -<p>New Wier, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page313">313</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page314">314</a></span></p> -<p>Northleach, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> -<p>Northop, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page257">257</a></span></p> -<p>Nuneham Courtney, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page5">5</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Oakley Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page298">298</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page303">303</a></span></p> -<p>Offa’s Dyke, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page281">281</a></span></p> -<p>Ogwen, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page226">226</a></span></p> -<p>—, Bank and River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page226">226</a></span></p> -<p>Orielton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> -<p>Oswestry, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page291">291</a></span></p> -<p>Oxford, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page1">1</a></span></p> -<p>Oxwich Bay, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page57">57</a></span></p> -<p>Oystermouth Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page56">56</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Pary’s, or Paris Mountain, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page209">209</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page217">217</a></span></p> -<p>Pembroke, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page73">73</a></span></p> -<p>Penbedw Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page269">269</a></span></p> -<p>Pendyffryn, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page239">239</a></span></p> -<p>Pen-mawn-mawr, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page235">235</a></span></p> -<p>Penmorfa, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page160">160</a></span></p> -<p>Pennard, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page57">57</a></span></p> -<p>Penpold, (pleasure-house,) fine view from, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page21">21</a></span></p> -<p>Penrhyn Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page222">222</a></span></p> -<p>Penrice, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page57">57</a></span></p> -<p>Pentraeth, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page212">212</a></span></p> -<p>Pen-y Vall Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page319">319</a></span></p> -<p>Peter’s Thumb, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page323">323</a></span></p> -<p>Picton Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page85">85</a></span></p> -<p>Piercefield, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page324">324</a></span></p> -<p>Pistyll y Cayne, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page143">143</a></span></p> -<p>Plâs Gwynn, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page212">212</a></span></p> -<p>Plâs Newydd, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page191">191</a></span></p> -<p>Plinlimmon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page119">119</a></span></p> -<p>Plymouth Works, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page42">42</a></span></p> -<p>Pont-Aber-Glaslyn, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page148">148</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page163">163</a></span></p> -<p>Pontcysyllty Aqueduct, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page281">281</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page289">289</a></span></p> -<p>Pont Neath Vechan, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page47">47</a></span></p> -<p>Pont y Prid, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page41">41</a></span></p> -<p>Porthogo Cavern, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page49">49</a></span></p> -<p>Powis Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page295">295</a></span></p> -<p>Priory Pill, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page83">83</a></span></p> -<p>Prospect, view from the, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page307">307</a></span></p> -<p>Pwllheli, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page157">157</a></span></p> -<p>Pystyll Rhaiadr, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page292">292</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Ragland Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page29">29</a></span></p> -<p>Ramsey Isle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page95">95</a></span></p> -<p>Redbrook Hills and Ironworks, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page319">319</a></span></p> -<p><a name="page339"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 339</span>Red -Wharf Bay, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page212">212</a></span></p> -<p>Rhaiadr-du, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page147">147</a></span></p> -<p>Rhaiadr Mawr, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page245">245</a></span></p> -<p>Rhaiadr y Mawdach, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page142">142</a></span></p> -<p>Rhôscrowther, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> -<p>Rhuabon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page280">280</a></span></p> -<p>Rhual, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page268">268</a></span></p> -<p>Rhuddlan, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page251">251</a></span></p> -<p>Rhyddol, Vale of, and River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page103">103</a></span></p> -<p>Roach Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -<p>Ross, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page306">306</a></span></p> -<p>Ruredean Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page311">311</a></span></p> -<p>Ruthin, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page273">273</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>St. Asaph, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page252">252</a></span></p> -<p>St. Briaval’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page29">29</a></span></p> -<p>St. Bride’s Bay, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -<p>St. Clear’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page66">66</a></span></p> -<p>St. David’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -<p>St. Degmen’s Well, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page75">75</a></span></p> -<p>St. Dogmael’s Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page101">101</a></span></p> -<p>St. Fynnon, St. Dyfnog, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page273">273</a></span></p> -<p>St. Govan’s Chapel and Well, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page76">76</a></span>, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page79">79</a></span></p> -<p>St. Julian’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page33">33</a></span></p> -<p>St. Petrocks, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page79">79</a></span></p> -<p>St. Stinan’s, or St. Justinian’s Chapel, <span -class="indexpageno"><a href="#page95">95</a></span></p> -<p>Segontium, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page190">190</a></span></p> -<p>Seint, River and Fort of the, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page190">190</a></span></p> -<p>Shirehampton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page21">21</a></span></p> -<p>Slebech, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page87">87</a></span></p> -<p>Snowdon, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page170">170</a></span></p> -<p>Solva, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -<p>Stackpool Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page77">77</a></span></p> -<p>— Elidur, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page79">79</a></span></p> -<p>Stretllan, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page292">292</a></span></p> -<p>Swansea, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page53">53</a></span></p> -<p>Sychnant, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page236">236</a></span></p> -<p>Symond’s Yatch, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page313">313</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Taff River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page40">40</a></span></p> -<p>Taliesin, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page249">249</a></span></p> -<p>Talylyn, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page123">123</a></span></p> -<p>Tannad River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page292">292</a></span></p> -<p>Tan y Bwlch, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page146">146</a></span></p> -<p>Tenby, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page68">68</a></span></p> -<p>Tewkesbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page9">9</a></span></p> -<p>Tintern and Tintern Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page320">320</a></span></p> -<p>Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page267">267</a></span></p> -<p>Towy River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page63">63</a></span></p> -<p>Traeth Mawr, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page161">161</a></span></p> -<p>Trecastle, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page64">64</a></span></p> -<p>Trefan Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page157">157</a></span></p> -<p>Tremadoc, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page148">148</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page162">162</a></span></p> -<p>Tredegar House, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page34">34</a></span></p> -<p>Twelve Apostles’ Rocks, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page323">323</a></span></p> -<p>Tynymaes, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page227">227</a></span></p> -<p>Tyvi River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page98">98</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Vale of Clwyd, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page253">253</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page271">271</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page272">272</a></span></p> -<p>— Conway, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page246">246</a></span></p> -<p>— Festiniog, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page146">146</a></span></p> -<p>— Glamorgan, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page40">40</a></span></p> -<p>— Llangollen, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page285">285</a></span></p> -<p>— the Severn, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page294">294</a></span></p> -<p>Valle Crucis Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page288">288</a></span></p> -<p>Velindre, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page97">97</a></span></p> -<p>Victoria Alleluiatica, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page268">268</a></span></p> -<p>Virnway River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page292">292</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Upton, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page11">11</a></span></p> -<p>Usk, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page31">31</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Walford Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page310">310</a></span></p> -<p>Welsh, or British Games, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page238">238</a></span></p> -<p>Welsh Pool, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page294">294</a></span></p> -<p>Westbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page23">23</a></span></p> -<p><a name="page340"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -340</span>Wilton Castle and Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page305">305</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page307">307</a></span></p> -<p>Witney, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> -<p>Woodstock, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> -<p>Worm’s Head, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page58">58</a></span></p> -<p>Whitebrook Hills, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page319">319</a></span></p> -<p>Whittington, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page291">291</a></span></p> -<p>Wrexham, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page276">276</a></span></p> -<p>Wye River, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page307">307</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page308">308</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page309">309</a></span></p> -<p>Wynd Cliff, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page323">323</a></span></p> -<p>Wynnstay Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page280">280</a></span></p> -<p>Ynys-halen, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page220">220</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p>Y-Trivaen, <span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page228">228</a></span></p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center">THE END.</p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:<br /> -<span class="smcap">Gilbert</span> & <span -class="smcap">Rivington</span>, Printers, St. John’s -Square.</p> -<h2>FOOTNOTES.</h2> -<p><a name="footnote0"></a><a href="#citation0" -class="footnote">[0]</a> For much of the present essay I am -indebted to the following works:—Commentarioli -Britanniæ descriptionis fragmentum, Auctore Humfredo Llwyd; -Powel’s History of Wales; Edward Llwyd’s Notes, in -Gibson’s edition of Camden’s Britannica; -Rowland’s Mona Antiqua Restaurata; Stukeley’s -Medallic History; the Preface to Owen’s Translation of the -Elegies of Llywarch Hen; Jones’s Musical and Poetical -Relics of the Welsh Bards; the Monthly Magazine, and the first -and second volumes of the Cambrian Register.</p> -<p><a name="footnote25"></a><a href="#citation25" -class="footnote">[25]</a> Atkins’s -Gloucestershire.</p> -<p><a name="footnote26"></a><a href="#citation26" -class="footnote">[26]</a> Grose’s Antiquities.</p> -<p><a name="footnote27"></a><a href="#citation27" -class="footnote">[27]</a> Warner’s First Walk through -Wales.</p> -<p><a name="footnote28"></a><a href="#citation28" -class="footnote">[28]</a> He was buried in the cathedral -church of St. David, and many hundred years after canonized by -Pope Calistus II.—Godwin’s English Bishops, p. -414.</p> -<p><a name="footnote38a"></a><a href="#citation38a" -class="footnote">[38a]</a> Willis’s Llandaff, p. -34.</p> -<p><a name="footnote38b"></a><a href="#citation38b" -class="footnote">[38b]</a> Grose—Willis.</p> -<p><a name="footnote50"></a><a href="#citation50" -class="footnote">[50]</a> Vol. ii. p. 92.</p> -<p><a name="footnote57a"></a><a href="#citation57a" -class="footnote">[57a]</a> Pennarth, eight miles south-west -of Swansea.</p> -<p><a name="footnote57b"></a><a href="#citation57b" -class="footnote">[57b]</a> From the Welsh Pen Rhys.</p> -<p><a name="footnote58"></a><a href="#citation58" -class="footnote">[58]</a> William of Malmesbury, p. -158.</p> -<p><a name="footnote72a"></a><a href="#citation72a" -class="footnote">[72a]</a> Famous as being the birth-place -of Sylvester Giraldus de Barri (more generally known as Giraldus -Cambrensis), nephew of David Fitzgerald, Bishop of St. -David’s; to which see Giraldus himself aspired. He -was twice elected to it by the chapter, but never attained that -dignity, although he had refused, in such expectation, three or -four bishoprics, as well as the archbishopric of Cashel. -Acting as legate to the Archbishop of Canterbury in Wales, he -evinced great spirit in correcting numerous abuses which had -crept into the church in that principality. The great -credit which he derived from these spirited exertions was greatly -added to by the many valuable works he bequeathed to posterity, -the merits of which have been recently revived under the -fostering auspices of Sir Richard C. Hoare, Bart., who has -enhanced the value and interest of his translation of the -Itinerary of Giraldus by illustrations derived from his own -pencil. Seventeen years before his death he resigned all -his ecclesiastical preferments, giving himself up to his studies: -he died in the 74th year of his age, at St. David’s, where -his monument is still remaining.</p> -<p><a name="footnote72b"></a><a href="#citation72b" -class="footnote">[72b]</a> The pedestrian will not possibly -find time to examine the ruins of Carew Castle in this -day’s route, but will find it more convenient to visit it -in his way from Tenby to Haverfordwest.</p> -<p><a name="footnote80a"></a><a href="#citation80a" -class="footnote">[80a]</a> The price for two oars seven -shillings and sixpence; and twelve shillings and sixpence for -four oars.</p> -<p><a name="footnote80b"></a><a href="#citation80b" -class="footnote">[80b]</a> Wyndham’s Tour through -Monmouthshire and Wales.</p> -<p><a name="footnote80c"></a><a href="#citation80c" -class="footnote">[80c]</a> Philosophical Survey of -Ireland.</p> -<p><a name="footnote88a"></a><a href="#citation88a" -class="footnote">[88a]</a> “This castle (says an -eminent author) is said to have been built by Gilbert, Earl of -Clare, who lived in the reign of King Stephen; and Camden -reports, that Richard, Earl of Clare, made Richard Fitz-Tancred -governor thereof. It was one of those in the hands of the -Flemings, when they first came into Dyvet, or -Pembrokeshire.”</p> -<p><a name="footnote88b"></a><a href="#citation88b" -class="footnote">[88b]</a> These lines were frequently -repeated by Dr. Johnson, whose partiality to inns is well -known.</p> -<p><a name="footnote90"></a><a href="#citation90" -class="footnote">[90]</a> “This celebrated person was -uncle to King Arthur, and son of a Prince of Wales. After -being seated in the see of St. David sixty-five years, and having -built twelve monasteries; after having been exemplary in the -piety of these days, this holy person died, at a most advanced -period of human life; having attained, as it is said, to the age -of one hundred and forty-six years. He was buried in the -cathedral church of St. David, and many years after canonized by -Pope Calistus the Second.” Warrington’s History -of Wales, vol. ii. p. 385.</p> -<p><a name="footnote91a"></a><a href="#citation91a" -class="footnote">[91a]</a> To whose son a MS. t. Elizabeth, -quoted by Willis, p. 69, gives Owen’s monuments.</p> -<p><a name="footnote91b"></a><a href="#citation91b" -class="footnote">[91b]</a> Tan. Bib. Brit.</p> -<p><a name="footnote91c"></a><a href="#citation91c" -class="footnote">[91c]</a> Tanner, p. 720.</p> -<p><a name="footnote94"></a><a href="#citation94" -class="footnote">[94]</a> Pope Calistus, by whom David was -canonized, had, it seems, raised this place to a rank second only -to the pontifical city itself, in the meritorious efficacy of the -pilgrimages made to it; having declared that two visits to St. -David’s were equal to one to Rome:—this occasioned a -proverbial rhyme in Welsh, which has been thus translated into -Latin:</p> -<blockquote><p>Roma semel quantum, bis dat Menevia tantum.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><a name="footnote95"></a><a href="#citation95" -class="footnote">[95]</a> Leland, Vol. V. p. 25.</p> -<p><a name="footnote96"></a><a href="#citation96" -class="footnote">[96]</a> For a description of these -monuments, see Wyndham.</p> -<p><a name="footnote98"></a><a href="#citation98" -class="footnote">[98]</a> “From <i>Cwrwgl</i>: in -Irish <i>Curach</i>. The Greenland boats are also made of -laths, tied together with whalebone, and covered with -seal-skins. In these slender vehicles they are said to be -able to row upwards of sixty miles a day; and the tops being -covered with skins, they resist the fury of every storm. -For when a wave upsets them, the boat rises again to the surface -of the water, and regains its equilibrium. When Frobisher -first saw them, in 1576, he took them for seals or -porpoises. In the voyages of the two Zenos, they are -compared to weavers’ shuttles. They are used, also, -in the islands of the North-Asian Archipelago, where the Russians -call them <i>Baidars</i>; and are found to be of such practical -use, that Lieut. Kotzebue, in his expedition along the American -coast of the Frozen Sea, took with him boats of a similar -construction, in order to ford any rivers that might obstruct his -journey. Similar boats are used by the Samoides of Nova -Zembla. They are also used in Labrador, Hudson’s Bay, -and Norton Sound. They glide with almost inconceivable -swiftness. The Arctic highlanders of Baffin’s Bay, -however, have no method of navigating the water. They never -even heard of a canoe.”—<i>Beauties</i>, -<i>Harmonies</i>, <i>and Sublimities of Nature</i>, Vol. iii. p. -335. Second Edit.</p> -<p><a name="footnote101"></a><a href="#citation101" -class="footnote">[101]</a> Itinerary, Vol. V. p. 12.</p> -<p><a name="footnote102"></a><a href="#citation102" -class="footnote">[102]</a> Over the river Rhyddol.</p> -<p><a name="footnote104"></a><a href="#citation104" -class="footnote">[104]</a> Near the town of Aberystwith, in -the year 1795 or 1796, a very fine coral stone was found, washed -up from the sea, by an exciseman. It is now in the -possession of Mr. Charles Hall, of Aller, in Hilton parish, -Dorsetshire; is extremely fine on one side, near two inches in -diameter, rather flat, but with some convexity. The late -Dr. Pulteney, of Blandford, allowed it to be the finest specimen -he had ever seen. Its colour is a yellowish white, its -filaments are finely curved, and very uneven on the surface.</p> -<p><a name="footnote107"></a><a href="#citation107" -class="footnote">[107]</a> The additions to Camden, 1695, -supposed this Bishop Idnert.</p> -<p><a name="footnote119"></a><a href="#citation119" -class="footnote">[119]</a> Called in Latin, Vaga.</p> -<p><a name="footnote121"></a><a href="#citation121" -class="footnote">[121]</a> See an excellent account of the -woollen manufactory in the seventh chapter of Aikin’s Tour -through North Wales.</p> -<p><a name="footnote123"></a><a href="#citation123" -class="footnote">[123]</a> See Pennant’s Snowdonia, -p. 89, and likewise Wilson’s excellent View of Cader -Idris.</p> -<p><a name="footnote124"></a><a href="#citation124" -class="footnote">[124]</a> Mr. Pennant, in his Snowdonia, -p. 397, edit. 1781, mentions, that there are brought annually to -Salop “seven hundred thousand yards of web; and to Welsh -Pool, annually, between seven and eight hundred thousand yards of -flannel;” but he does not state the particulars whence he -deduces his general estimate. I have quoted this passage -from Aikin’s excellent chapter (vii.) on the woollen -manufacture of North Wales, not having in my possession Mr. -P’s. Snowdonia.</p> -<p><a name="footnote128"></a><a href="#citation128" -class="footnote">[128]</a> First Walk through Wales.</p> -<p><a name="footnote155"></a><a href="#citation155" -class="footnote">[155]</a> Dr. Fuller observes, “It -would be more facile to find graves for as many saints, than -saints for so many graves.”</p> -<p><a name="footnote166"></a><a href="#citation166" -class="footnote">[166]</a> Gelert was given to Llewelyn by -King John, in 1205.</p> -<p><a name="footnote170"></a><a href="#citation170" -class="footnote">[170]</a> Evan Thomas worked in the -copper-works at Aber Glaslyn, and lived at a place called -Drwsycoed, about a mile and a half beyond Beddgelert.</p> -<p><a name="footnote171"></a><a href="#citation171" -class="footnote">[171]</a> The most usual and best -direction, in which to ascend Snowdon at the present day, -commences between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near the -Bridge.</p> -<p><a name="footnote181"></a><a href="#citation181" -class="footnote">[181]</a> “The Cambrian fair would -blush as much at the term <i>courting in bed</i> as any other -modest female would, that has never heard of this custom -before. It is not expressed <i>Caru-yn-y-Gwely</i>, which -means <i>courting in bed</i>; but <i>Caru-ar-y-Gwely</i>, -courting on the bed. Should the lover offer any indecency, -his mistress would not only fly from him with the velocity of -lightning, but he would be fortunate if she would so leave him -without giving him a bloody nose at parting. In a few days -also, the tidings of his impudence would reach the ears of every -lass in the neighbourhood; his company would be shunned with the -greatest caution: and were he so successful as to prevail upon a -young woman to accept of his visits, her continency would be -considered as doubtful.”</p> -<p><a name="footnote183a"></a><a href="#citation183a" -class="footnote">[183a]</a> “Assembled there, from -pious toil they rest,<br /> -And sadly share the last sepulchral feast.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Pope’s -Homer</span>.</p> -<p><a name="footnote183b"></a><a href="#citation183b" -class="footnote">[183b]</a> This last custom is not in use -in Anglesea.</p> -<p><a name="footnote186"></a><a href="#citation186" -class="footnote">[186]</a> Such is the received opinion; -but the place noted for this event is only a thoroughfare to the -grand apartments of the tower, the middle one of which appears -more probably to have been the room. They shew also a -cradle in which the Prince is said to have been rocked.</p> -<p><a name="footnote187"></a><a href="#citation187" -class="footnote">[187]</a> “On the outside of the -town walls is a broad and pleasant terrace along the side of the -Menai, extending from the quay to the north end of the town -walls, and in the evening is a fashionable promenade for persons -of all descriptions. From the top of a rock behind the -hotel is a fine view of the town and castle: and on a clear day -the Isle of Anglesea, Holyhead, and Parys Mountains, may be -distinctly seen, like a good map before the -eyes.”—<span class="smcap">Evans</span>.</p> -<p><a name="footnote188"></a><a href="#citation188" -class="footnote">[188]</a> The parish church is dedicated -to Publicius, a brother of the far-famed and illustrious Helen, -whose splendid acts in favour of Christianity are at this day -attested in Palestine. Near the church are the remains of -Segontium, built about the year <span -class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 365, by Maximus; or, as he is styled -by the British historians, Maxen Wledig. It was from hence, -it is supposed, that Maximus marched in his ill-fated expedition -to gain the imperial purple at Rome, taking with him all the -youth whom Helen invited to join his standard. The line of -march which he pursued is, even at this time, traditionally -recorded amongst the common people in the neighbourhood.</p> -<p><a name="footnote191"></a><a href="#citation191" -class="footnote">[191]</a> The hire of a boat is from seven -shillings and sixpence to half-a-guinea.</p> -<p><a name="footnote192"></a><a href="#citation192" -class="footnote">[192]</a> “The eastern seems -originally to have consisted of seven stones, six uprights -supporting an immense superincumbent one (with its flat face -lying upon them), thirteen feet long, nearly as much broad, and -four feet thick.”—Warner’s Second Walk through -Wales.</p> -<p><a name="footnote195"></a><a href="#citation195" -class="footnote">[195]</a> Before the author of this -itinerary proposed publishing this tour through the Cambrian -territories, he was induced to send an account of this -extraordinary sect to the Gentleman’s Magazine, July, 1799, -p. 579. This is, therefore, only to be considered as a -repetition: with the addition of a brief extract from two -subsequent letters, September, 1799, p. 741; and November, p. -938; given to the public by different hands through the medium of -the Gentleman’s Magazine.</p> -<p><a name="footnote197"></a><a href="#citation197" -class="footnote">[197]</a> September, 1799, p. 741.</p> -<p><a name="footnote200"></a><a href="#citation200" -class="footnote">[200]</a> “Bishops Glynn, 1550; -Robinson, 1584; Vaughan, 1597; Rowlands, 1616; Morgan, 1673; and -one with a cross fleuri in the south transept, ascribed to Owen -Glendwr: but as he was buried at Monington, in Herefordshire, -where he died, I should rather ascribe it to some of the earlier -bishops. Mr. Pennant gives it to Owen Gwynned.”</p> -<p><a name="footnote204"></a><a href="#citation204" -class="footnote">[204]</a> A Trip to the Suspension Bridge -over the Menai Straits. P. 11.</p> -<p><a name="footnote206"></a><a href="#citation206" -class="footnote">[206]</a> Id est, the -<i>Englishman’s Island</i>; having become subject to the -English in the time of Egbert. See Rowland’s Mon. -Ant. p. 172, 3.</p> -<p><a name="footnote224"></a><a href="#citation224" -class="footnote">[224]</a> See an elegant poem written by -Owain Cyveiliog, a bard who flourished in the twelfth century, -intitled, “Hirlas Owain.” The original may be -found in Evan Evans’s Collections, published with an -English dress in Pennant’s Tours, Vol. iii. p. 93. -This spirited translation, by a gentleman, under the signature of -R. W. must convince the reader of genuine taste, that a true -poetical genius pervaded at times the bosom of the Welsh: and -that some of Owain Cyveiliog’s works scarcely need shrink -from a comparison with the first classical productions of Lyric -poetry.</p> -<p><a name="footnote233"></a><a href="#citation233" -class="footnote">[233]</a> Princess Joan, daughter of John, -King of England.</p> -<p><a name="footnote243"></a><a href="#citation243" -class="footnote">[243]</a> A Trip to the Suspension Bridge -over the Menai Straits, p. 27.</p> -<p><a name="footnote248"></a><a href="#citation248" -class="footnote">[248]</a> Elphin was particularly -unfortunate, as the Editor has frequently seen from fifty to a -hundred fine salmon taken from this weir at a tide; and herrings -drawn from it by cart loads.</p> -<p><a name="footnote256a"></a><a href="#citation256a" -class="footnote">[256a]</a> Evans.</p> -<p><a name="footnote256b"></a><a href="#citation256b" -class="footnote">[256b]</a> Vol. iv. p. 67, 2nd Edit.</p> -<p><a name="footnote266"></a><a href="#citation266" -class="footnote">[266]</a> The daughter of this gentleman -was married to Captain Franklin, well known for his Expedition to -North America, &c. She was an amiable and accomplished -woman, and author of two Poems, highly honourable to her memory: -“The Veils,” and “Richard Cœur de -Leon.”</p> -<p><a name="footnote279"></a><a href="#citation279" -class="footnote">[279]</a> Since our visit to this spot, -Mr. Yorke has published a most excellent and valuable book, -entitled, A History of the Royal Tribes of Wales.</p> -<p><a name="footnote281"></a><a href="#citation281" -class="footnote">[281]</a> Enquire the way to this aqueduct -at the turnpike, about four miles from Llangollen.</p> -<p><a name="footnote285a"></a><a href="#citation285a" -class="footnote">[285a]</a> Lady Eleanor Butler.</p> -<p><a name="footnote285b"></a><a href="#citation285b" -class="footnote">[285b]</a> Miss Ponsonby.</p> -<p><a name="footnote285c"></a><a href="#citation285c" -class="footnote">[285c]</a> Willis’s St. Asaph, p. -52. 285.</p> -<p><a name="footnote286"></a><a href="#citation286" -class="footnote">[286]</a> From a second survey of my -note-book, I perceive, when speaking of the house, I omitted -mentioning that there are several family pieces, both of the -Wynne and Williams, worthy the inspection of the -connoisseur. The house has been built at various times.</p> -<p><a name="footnote299"></a><a href="#citation299" -class="footnote">[299]</a> This estimation is taken from -the Ludlow guide: from which I have taken such extracts, as, I -flatter myself, will not be unacceptable to the tourist. We -dedicated two or three days to the investigation of this -interesting town; and, consequently, in those parts where the -guide is defective, we have made considerable additions.</p> -<p><a name="footnote310"></a><a href="#citation310" -class="footnote">[310]</a> “This view,” says -Mr. Gilpin, “is one of the grandest on the river, which I -should not scruple to call <i>correctly picturesque</i>; which is -seldom the character of a purely natural scene.”</p> -<p><a name="footnote311"></a><a href="#citation311" -class="footnote">[311]</a> “The view at <i>Rure-dean -Church</i>,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is a scene of great -grandeur. There both sides of the river are steep and both -woody; but in one the woods are intermixed with rocks. The -deep umbrage of the forest of Dean occupies the front; and the -spire of the church rises among the trees. The reach of the -river which exhibits this scene is long: and, of course, the -view, which is a noble piece of natural perspective, continues -some time before the eye: but when the spire comes directly in -front, the grandeur of the landscape is gone.”</p> -<p><a name="footnote312"></a><a href="#citation312" -class="footnote">[312]</a> “The river is wider at -this part,” says Mr. Gilpin, “and takes a sweep round -a towering promontory of rock, which forms the side-screen on the -left, and is the grand feature of the view. It is not a -broad fractured face of rock; but rather a woody hill, from which -large rocky projections, in two or three places, burst out, -rudely hung with twisting branches and shaggy furniture, which, -like mane round the lion’s head, give a more savage air to -these wild exhibitions of nature. Near the top a pointed -fragment of solitary rock, rising above the rest, has rather a -fantastic appearance; but it is not without its effect in marking -the scene. A great master in landscape has adorned an -imaginary view with a circumstance exactly similar:</p> -<blockquote><p>Stabat acuta silex, præcisis undique -saxis,<br /> -— dorso insurgens, altissima visu,<br /> -Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum,<br /> -— prona jugo, lævum incumbebat ad amnem.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Æn. -viii.</span> 233.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><a name="footnote317"></a><a href="#citation317" -class="footnote">[317]</a> Tanner’s Notitia -Monastica.</p> -<p><a name="footnote321"></a><a href="#citation321" -class="footnote">[321]</a> Warner’s first Walk -through Wales.</p> -<p><a name="footnote333"></a><a href="#citation333" -class="footnote">[333]</a> The isles of Anglesea and Man -are discovered from Snowdon.</p> -<pre> - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST [1834]*** - - -***** This file should be named 64132-h.htm or 64132-h.zip****** - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/1/3/64132 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - -</pre></body> -</html> diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9c4e256..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/map-nwb.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/map-nwb.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 66730ad..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/map-nwb.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/map-nws.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/map-nws.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f124569..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/map-nws.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/map-swb.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/map-swb.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7c576d5..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/map-swb.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/map-sws.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/map-sws.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e43e763..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/map-sws.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/p0b.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/p0b.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3742058..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/p0b.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/p0s.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/p0s.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 094cff1..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/p0s.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/p240b.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/p240b.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4787250..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/p240b.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/64132-h/images/p240s.jpg b/old/64132-h/images/p240s.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1bf0c24..0000000 --- a/old/64132-h/images/p240s.jpg +++ /dev/null |
