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diff --git a/old/64127-0.txt b/old/64127-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 4ee7ac1..0000000 --- a/old/64127-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10548 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Cambrian Tourist [1828], by Anonymous - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: The Cambrian Tourist [1828] - or, Post-Chaise Companion through Wales - - -Author: Anonymous - - - -Release Date: December 25, 2020 [eBook #64127] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST [1828]*** - - -Transcribed from the 1828 Geo. B. Whittaker edition by David Price. - - [Picture: Suspension Bridge, over the Menai at Bangor Ferry] - - - - - - THE - CAMBRIAN TOURIST, - - - OR, - - Post-Chaise Companion - - THROUGH WALES; - - CONTAINING CURSORY SKETCHES OF - - THE WELSH TERRITORIES, - - AND - - A DESCRIPTION OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND GAMES - OF THE NATIVES. - - * * * * * - - SIXTH EDITION. - - * * * * * - - THE WHOLE CORRECTED, AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - PRINTED FOR GEO. B. WHITTAKER, - - AVE-MARIA LANE. - - * * * * * - - 1828. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY R. GILBERT, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE. - - - - -ACCOUNT OF THE WELSH LANGUAGE. - - -THE FORCE OF THE LETTERS—LIST OF PRIMITIVE WORDS—CHARACTER OF THE -LANGUAGE AND OF THE POETRY. - -It is supposed, that there were anciently, in the Welsh or British -language, {0} no less than thirty-six letters, sixteen of which were -radicals, that expressed the primary sounds; and the rest, modulations or -dependents on them. For each of these, it is probable that there was -formerly a simple appropriate character; but, since the invention of -printing, and the introduction of Roman letters, it has been necessary, -for want of a sufficient variety of cast for the purpose, to adopt two, -and in one instance even three, of those letters, to express one sound or -character, by which much of the simplicity and beauty of the proper -alphabet has been lost. - -The present printed books contain only twenty-seven characters: A, B, C, -Ch, D, Dd, E, F, Ff, G, Ng, H, I, L, Ll, M, N, O, P, Ph, R, S, T, Th, U, -W, and Y; having neither J, K, X, nor Z. C answers the purpose of K, -when joined with W or Q; and when placed with S, of X. It is said that Z -is used in the Armorican language, which is a dialect of this, but the -Welsh disown it. - -No letter has any variation of sound, except the accented vowels â, ê, î, -ô, û, ŵ, ŷ, which are lengthened, or otherwise, according to the power of -the accent, and all are pronounced, as there are no mutes. - -A has the same sound as the English open _a_ in the word _bard_. - -C is always hard as _k_. - -Ch, which is accounted but as one consonant, is a guttural, as _Chi_ in -Greek, or _ch_, _Cheth_, in Hebrew. - -Dd is an aspirated _d_, and has the sound of _th_ in the words _this_, -_that_. _Dda_, good, is pronounced _Tha_. - -F has the sound of an English _v_. - -I is sounded as in the Italian, or like our _ee_ in _been_: thus _cîl_, a -retreat, is pronounced _keel_. - -Ll is an aspirated _l_, and has much the sound of _thl_. _Llangollen_ is -pronounced _Thlangothlen_. - -R, as in the Greek language, is always aspirated at the beginning of a -word. - -U sounds like the _i_ in _limb_, _him_, &c. - -W is a vowel, and has the power of _oo_ in _soon_. - -Y is in some words pronounced like _i_ in _third_; in others like o in -_honey_; and again, in others as the _u_ in _mud_, _must_, &c. - -V is sometimes used instead of _f_. B and P, C and G, and U and Y, are -used promiscuously, as were formerly V and M. - - * * * * * - -The following is a list of primitive words, which as they very commonly -occur in the names of places, &c. the tourist may find them of use. - -_Aber_, a confluence; the fall of one river into another or into the sea, -as _Aberdovey_, the conflux of the Dovey. - -_Avon_, what flows; and from thence a stream or river. - -_Allt_, a cliff; the steep of a hill. - -_Ar_, upon; bordering or abutting upon. - -_Bach_, and _Bychan_, little: these are of the masculine gender, and -_Vychan_ and _Vechan_ are feminine. - -_Bôd_, a dwelling, residence, or station. - -_Bryn_, a hill. - -_Bwlch_, a gap or pass between rocks. - -_Cader_, a keep, fortress, or strong hold. - -_Caer_, a fort, or fortified place, generally constructed with stones and -mortar. - -_Castell_, a castle. - -_Coed_, a wood. - -_Carnedd_, a heap of stones. - -_Cefen_, a ridge; a high ground. - -_Clawdd_, a dike, ditch, or trench; and sometimes a wall or fence. - -_Clogwyn_, a precipice. - -_Craig_, a rock:—from this the English word _Crag_ is derived. - -_Cwm_, a great hollow or glen; sometimes a valley. - -_Dinas_, a fort, or fortified place, constructed in general with a -rampart of loose stones and earth without any cement. - -_Dôl_, a meadow or dale in the bend of a river. - -_Drws_, a door, pass, or opening. - -_Dû_, black. - -_Dyffryn_, a wide cultivated valley. - -_Ffynnon_, a spring, well, or source. - -_Garth_, a mountain that bends round, or that incloses. - -_Glan_, a bank or shore. - -_Glyn_, a deep vale, through which a river runs:—from hence was derived -our word _Glen_. - -_Gwern_, a watery meadow. - -_Gwydd_, a wood; woody or wild. - -_Gwyn_, white. - -_Goch_, or _Coch_, red. - -_Llan_, a smooth plot; a place of meeting; the church, place or village; -and figuratively the church. - -_Llech_, a flat stone or crag; a smooth cliff. - -_Llwyn_, a grove or copse. - -_Llyn_, a pool, pond, or mere. - -_Maen_, a stone. - -_Maes_, an open field. - -_Mawr_, great:—_Vach_, little. - -_Moel_, fair; bald; a smooth mountain. - -_Morfa_, a marsh. - -_Mynydd_, a mountain. - -_Pant_, a narrow hollow, or ravine. - -_Pen_, a head, top, or end. - -_Plâs_, a hall, or mansion. - -_Pont_, a bridge. - -_Porth_, a port. - -_Rhiw_, an ascent. - -_Rhôs_, a moist plain, or meadow. - -_Rhyd_, a ford. - -_Sarn_, a causeway. - -_Tal_, the front, head, or end. - -_Traeth_, a sand on the sea-shore. - -_Tref_, a township. - -_Ty_, a house. - -_Ynys_, an island. - -The Welsh language is possessed of numerous beauties. Its copiousness is -very great; and it has no rival in the variety of its synonymous forms of -expression, principally arising from the rich combinations of its verbs; -for every simple verb has about twenty modifications, by means of -qualifying prefixes; and in every form it may be conjugated, either by -inflexions, like the Latin, or by the auxiliaries, as in English. It -rivals the Greek, in its aptitude to form the most beautiful derivatives, -as well as in the elegance, facility, and expressiveness of an infinite -variety of compounds. The author of letters from Snowdon has justly -remarked, that it has the softness and harmony of the Italian, with the -majesty and expression of the Greek. Of these I will give two singular -and striking instances, one of which is an _Englyn_, or epigram on the -silk-worm; composed entirely of vowels. - - O’i wiw y ŵi weu ê â, a’i weuau - O’i ŵyau y weua; - E’ weua ei ŵe aia’, - A’i weuau yw ieuau iâ. - - “I perish by my art; dig mine own grave: - I spin my thread of life; my death I weave.” - -The other a distich on thunder, the grandeur of which is scarcely to be -surpassed in any language. - - Tân a dŵr yn ymwriaw, - Yw’r taranau dreigiau draw. - - “The roaring thunder, dreadful in its ire, - Its water warring with aërial fire.” - -The metre of the Welsh poetry is very artificial and alliterative, -possessing such peculiar ingenuity in the selection and arrangement of -words, as to produce a rhythmical concatenation of sounds in every verse. -The old British language abounded with consonants, and was formed of -monosyllables, which are incompatible with quantity; and the bards could -reduce it to concord by no other means than by placing at such intervals -its harsher consonants, so intermixing them with vowels, and so adapting, -repeating, and dividing the several sounds, as to produce an agreeable -effect from their structure. Hence the laws of poetical composition in -this language are so strict and rigorous, that were it not for a -particular aptitude that it has for that kind of alliterative melody, -which is as essential as harmony in music, and which constitutes the -great beauty of its poetry, the genius of the bard must have been greatly -cramped. To the ears of the natives, the Welsh metre is extremely -pleasing, and does not subject the bard to more restraint than the -different sorts of feet occasioned to the Greek and Roman poets. From -the reign of Llywelyn to that of Elizabeth, the laws of alliteration were -prescribed, and observed with such scrupulous exactness, that a line not -perfectly alliterative was condemned as much by the Welsh grammarians, as -a false quantity was by the Greeks and Romans. - - [Picture: Map of South Wales, 1828] - - - - -THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST. - - - These are the haunts of Meditation, these - The scenes where ancient bards th’ inspiring breath - Ecstatic felt. - - THOMSON. - -As a centrical situation from which to undertake a Tour to either North -or South Wales, and to which conveyances are now established from all -parts of England and Scotland, I fixed on Oxford. And should the -Tourist’s undertaking be commenced early in the season, and his time to -enjoy it be ample, he will have the opportunity of viewing this seat of -learning and nursery of the arts to advantage; the elegant piles of -building which Oxford exhibits, the stores of learned wealth which it -possesses, and the beautiful paintings which adorn its halls and -colleges, are so cheaply and so fully described in the Oxford Guides, -that to attempt to do it in this work would be superfluous, if not -ridiculous: still I may be excused for pointing out to those whose period -of stay may be limited, the objects more particularly worthy their -attention. The three churches generally viewed are St. Mary’s, All -Saints, and St. Peter’s in the East. St. Mary’s is the church used by -the University on Sundays and holidays: All Saints is a beautiful modern -structure, in the High-street: St. Peter’s in the East is very ancient; -it was formerly the University Church, and is now, during Lent, attended -by the members of it, for afternoon service. - -The Bodleian or University Library, one of the largest in Europe, as well -as the Picture Gallery, are to be seen in summer, from eight to two -o’clock, and from three to five; in the winter only till three in the -afternoon. The Arundel marbles are placed in a large room on the north -side of the Schools. The Theatre, in which are held the Public Acts, -called the Comitia, and Encænia, and Lord Crewe’s annual commemoration, -in June or July, of the benefactors to the University, when the prizes -adjudged to particular performances are publicly recited, is a superb -edifice, and was built by Sir Christopher Wren, at the expense of -Archbishop Sheldon: it cost 16,000_l._; its roof has been greatly -admired. Near this, on the west, stands the Ashmolean Museum of natural -curiosities, coins, &c. &c. and on the other side of the Theatre, the -Clarendon Printing-house. Southward of the Schools stands in a fine area -the celebrated Radcliffe Library, a noble building with a handsome dome. - -St. Mary Magdalene College at the east end of the city, near the river -Cherwell, is particularly worthy of attention, were it only to see the -picture of our Saviour bearing his cross; supposed to be painted by -Guido. Such is the awful solemnity of the place, and the impressive -beauty of this painting, as well as of the windows, particularly of that -representing the last judgment, that none can be better calculated to -give a favourable bias to the mind of youth; for should religion waver in -the mind, the sweet benignity of Him who died to save mankind - - Shall on the heart impress such grateful love, - That Atheist ne’er can shake, or Deist move. - -The Cloister of this College, which remains in its primitive state, is -the most venerable of the University; the interior is ornamented with -curious hieroglyphics, the key to which is very fully given in the Oxford -Guide, from an ancient manuscript in the College. - -Passing by numerous other Colleges and Halls, all interesting, if the -time and inclination of the Tourist permit him to visit them, I shall -proceed to Christ Church, which merits particular attention. This -College consists of four courts: 1. The great Quadrangle; 2. Peckwater -square; 3. Canterbury court; 4. The Chaplain’s court; and some other -buildings. The noble west front is 382 feet in length. Over the great -gate in the middle of this front is a beautiful tower, designed by Sir -Christopher Wren, erected by Dr. Fell, in which is hung the great bell, -called Tom, the weight of which is eight tons and a half: on the sound of -this bell, the scholars of the University are to retire to their -respective Colleges. - -The great Quadrangle is 264 by 261 feet in the clear. The Hall takes up -more than half the south side: we ascend to it by a spacious and stately -staircase of stone, the roof of which, supported by a single pillar, is -beautiful. The staircase, lobby, and entrance into the hall, have been -altered under the direction of Mr. Wyatt. The Hall is by far the most -magnificent room of the kind in Oxford. There are near 300 compartments -in the cornice, which are embellished with as many coats of arms, carved -and blazoned in their proper colours. At the upper end of the hall the -beautiful gothic window merits attention.—For the long list of portraits -of eminent persons that adorn the walls, _vide_ Oxford Guide. - -Christ Church, which is the cathedral of the diocese, formerly belonged -to St. Frideswide’s Monastery; for the roof of the choir, which is of -beautiful stone-work, it was indebted to Cardinal Wolsey. - -The east window was painted by Mr. Price, senior, of London, from a -design by Sir James Thornhill. The window at the north corner of the -west end is curiously painted, representing St. Peter delivered out of -prison by the angel. It was executed by Oliver, in his eighteenth year. -The fine ring of ten bells in the steeple, as well as Tom before -described, were brought from Oseney Abbey. Choir service is performed -every day at ten and five; except on Sundays and holidays, when it is at -eight in the morning. - -Three sides of Peckwater court are uniform, designed by Dr. Aldrich. On -the fourth side is the Library, 141 feet long, built in the Corinthian -order. In the lower apartments to the right and left are deposited the -celebrated collection of pictures, given to the College by Gen. Guise. -Amongst these is the celebrated performance of Annibal Caracci, -representing his family in a butcher’s shop. St. Francis in a vision -supported by angels, by ditto. A Medusa’s head, by Rubens. Two -Nativities, by Titian. A Nativity, by Raphael. The flight into Egypt, -by Guido Rini. Two half-lengths of women, by Dominichino. Jesus and -Saint John embracing, by Raphael, &c. &c. - -For a farther account of the various beauties of Oxford, I must again -recommend the Tourist to refer to the Oxford Guide, as well as for -information with respect to Heythrop, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury, -17 miles N. of Oxford; Ditchley, the seat of the Right Honourable Lord -Dillon, about four miles and a half from Heythrop; or Nuneham Courtney, -the seat of Earl Harcourt, which affords the richest treat to the -admirers of fine paintings that the country affords. - -But if a soldier’s ardour warms his soul, and he would fain be led to -deeds of arms, pursue the road to honour, and seek the pinnacle of fame, -to Blenheim’s towers let him turn his steps; and let the gentle -Rosamond’s hard fate midst Woodstock’s bowers beguile him of a sigh; for -love and war should still go hand in hand. Here well-earned honours have -been well repaid; and great as Marlborough’s noble deeds in arms shall -shine in the historic page, still shall a sovereign’s and a nation’s -gratitude outvie the hero’s deeds. - -Blenheim, the princely residence of his grace the Duke of Marlborough, is -situated about eight miles from Oxford, to the west of Woodstock, from -which town you enter the Park by a spacious portal of the Corinthian -order. The noble view of the castle of Blenheim, the extent of the park, -the lake, valley, and richly varied scenery, are from hence highly -impressive. The architecture of this noble pile of building, the -interior finish and display of the arts, increase rather than diminish -the first impression. The circumference of the park is about eleven -miles: the gardens are tastefully displayed, owing much to nature, whose -beauties are here happily blended with art. - -The distance from Woodstock to Witney is eight miles and three quarters, -by a turnpike road; thence to Burford, seven miles and a quarter; -Northleach, nine miles; Cheltenham, twelve miles and three quarters. - - - -CHELTENHAM. - - -’Twas from hence with a friend, an equal admirer of Nature’s landscapes, -and attached to pedestrian independence, that they agreed to visit the -wild and impressive scenery of the Cambrian mountains. The outlines of -their route being arranged, they sallied forth in the month of July from -this place so much resorted to, and celebrated for its mineral waters. -Since it has become a place of fashion, the lodging-houses have been -considerably improved, and rendered comfortable for the company, who make -this place their residence. The season usually commences about May, and -frequently continues till the beginning of November. The majority of the -company who frequent Cheltenham resort here not so much for the purpose -of water-drinking, as to enjoy the delightful walks and rides, and -partake of the sociability of the neighbourhood. - -The Walk at the Pump-room, well planned, and kept in excellent order, is -planted on each side with limes; at the end is a small square, where the -pump is situate, with a room on the left for the accommodation of the -company to promenade, measuring sixty-six feet by twenty-three: on the -opposite side a reading-room, with a billiard-table over: and a house, -the residence of the attendant at the Spa: beyond that is a similar walk -which leads to another serpentine walk; from the end of this, the spire -of Cheltenham church forms a beautiful object. Near these walks stands, -on an eminence, the seat of the Earl of Fauconberg; which was the royal -residence during their Majesties’ stay from July 12 to August 16, 1788. - -In respect to the Rides, Cleave Hill, Dowdeswell, &c. Tewkesbury and -Glocester, are most admired. - -Speaking of the history of the place, we find Cheltenham was a town in -the reign of King William the Conqueror; Edward likewise is supposed to -have marched through it, before he encamped his army on the field of -Tewkesbury, previous to the battle of the houses of York and Lancaster. - -Three days may be passed very pleasantly at this place, in viewing the -various improvements that have been made in the last twenty-five years, -tending both to increase the health and pleasure of its numerous and -respectable visitors: for these improvements the town is greatly indebted -to the exertions of Messrs. Moreau, King, and Fotheringham, the masters -of the ceremonies. Duty with such men scarcely required the additional -stimulus of interest to render it efficacious; but with so powerful an -auxiliary it was irresistible: thousands have been expended after -thousands; public spirit was roused, and competition excited. The public -as well as Messrs. Thompson, Skillicorne, Capstack, Smith, Barrett, -Watson and Co., and all others who have spiritedly adventured their -property, will, I hope, derive mutual advantage, if not checked by the -high charges of some of the head inns, and the enormous establishments of -the overbearing, monopolizing barrack lodging-houses, apparently better -calculated for workhouses or houses of correction, than places of -residence for valetudinarians. - -The wells and baths are numerous, and calculated, under proper medical -superintendance, for all chronic disorders and constitutions; but they -are not to be trifled with: professional advice, for their proper use, is -absolutely necessary. - -Of the efficacy of the water, to which this town is indebted for its -present celebrity, I refer my readers to a Treatise published by Dr. -Fothergill, of Bath. - -The church is a respectable old building, by far too crowded and -encumbered with galleries, and what are intended as accommodations for a -large congregation, to allow all parties to participate in and profit by -the excellent and elegant moral and religious discourses there delivered. - -The rooms and public receptacles for company, it should be the business -of some party to see closed, at all events on Sunday, and particularly on -Sunday morning, against those errant gamblers, that will eventually be -the bane of Cheltenham. - -Libraries and Banks are numerous, as are conveyances to London through -Oxford, and to Bristol through Glocester: here likewise are conveyances -to Hereford, Worcester, Birmingham, &c., and by that route to North -Wales; but this is not to be depended upon: but to South Wales, through -Glocester and Hereford, the conveyance by coach and waggon for passengers -or baggage is ready and convenient. - -For further particulars relative to this splendid modern establishment, -for such Cheltenham certainly may with propriety be designated, I must -refer the reader to the Cheltenham Guide; the information derived from -which will amply repay him for its trifling cost. From hence to -Glocester, eight miles one furlong, the road excellent; and if time -allows, Tewkesbury is worthy of a visit, being only nine miles from -Cheltenham, and ten miles and an half from Glocester. - -Its ancient abbey is a venerable building, founded in 715 by two -brothers, Odo and Dodo, who endowed it with the manor of Stanway in -Glocestershire, &c. &c. sufficient to maintain a prior and four monks of -the order of Benedictines: this priory was afterwards, about the year -980, subjected to the priory of Cranbourne, in Dorsetshire, but being -subsequently rebuilt in 1102, by Robert Fitz-Hamon, and its endowments -greatly enlarged, Girald the Abbot of Cranbourne, on account of the -fruitfulness of the soil and superiority of its situation, removed his -establishment to it, leaving only a prior and two monks at Cranbourne. -From this period it appears to have risen in consequence as a town. - -The ashes of many noble characters are here deposited; and amongst the -rest, amidst the mingled heap of slain and murdered at and after the -battle of Tewkesbury, those of the accomplished and lamented Edward, -Prince of Wales, son of King Henry the Sixth; Edmund, Duke of Somerset; -his brother John de Somerset, the Earl of Devonshire; Lord Wenlock, -master of the horse to the Prince, with numerous others. Here likewise -rest in peace, where all animosities are forgotten, the remains of -_false_, _fleeting_, _perjured Clarence_; as also those of Isabel his -wife, who was buried with great pomp and solemnity. - -Further particulars of this ancient town, the reader will obtain by -reference to a small but interesting historical work, on the Antiquities -of Tewkesbury, by W. Dyde of that place; who, after giving a very full -and explicit account of the contest betwixt the houses of York and -Lancaster, concludes by saying, “The local memorials of this very -decisive battle are but few. The principal scenes of the action are the -meadow, which has received the appellation of Bloody Meadow, and the -Vineyard. The former lies between two gently descending banks, about -half a mile south-west of the town, and was the spot where the slaughter -was the greatest. The latter was the place where Queen Margaret lay, and -where some intrenchments are still to be traced.” - -Stebbing says, “to the monastery and convent of Tewkesbury, King Henry -the Seventh granted the parochial church of Towton to pray for the soul -of Edmund Duke of Somerset, his brother John, and others, who lost their -lives in the quarrel of the house of Lancaster.” - -The entrance to Tewkesbury from Worcester, or Hereford and Malvern, after -a heavy fall of rain, presents to the eye the largest moveable body of -inland water I have witnessed in England; the junction of the Severn, and -the Warwickshire Avon, each overflowing their banks, rushing down two -beautiful vales to join their currents opposite the town, and augmenting -their volume by the two tributary streams of the Carron and the Swilgate, -impress you with the idea of the vicinity of the sea, and the power of -the tide, to collect so large a body of that fluid element in such -overpowering currents. The drive or ride from Tewkesbury to Upton, and -from thence to Malvern hills, is beautiful; indeed not one inch of this -delightful country should be missed or slighted, by travelling over it in -the dark or in bad weather: the view from Malvern hills over Worcester, -and the rich vale through which the Severn’s current rolls, is perhaps as -fine a one as the eye of the painter could wish to be indulged with. -Winding round the Malvern hills by a good turnpike road, you gain the -Herefordshire view, with the mountains of Wales in the back ground, -having Ross on the left, and Bromyard, Leominster, and Salop on the -right; descending the hill, you soon reach Ledbury, scarcely remarkable -for any thing but the antiquity of its houses, and the fine quality of -the cider and perry made in its vicinity. Malvern is about an equal -distance from Ledbury and Upton, and those places are nearly equidistant -from - - - -GLOCESTER. - - -The pin manufactory was established here by John Tisley, in the year -1626, and the business is now become so extensive, that the returns from -London alone are estimated at near twenty thousand pounds per annum. -Before the introduction of pins into England, anno 1543, skewers of -brass, silver and gold, and likewise thorns curiously scraped, called by -the Welsh women pindraen, were used. Though the pins themselves are -apparently simple, yet their manufacture is not a little curious and -complex. The wire in its most rough state is brought from a wire company -in the neighbourhood of Bristol: till the year 1563, English iron wire -was drawn out by manual strength. The first operation attending this -curious process is the fixing the circular roll of wire to the -circumference of a wheel, which in its rotation throwing the wire against -a board, with great violence, takes off the black external coat: vitriol -is next applied to bring the brass to its common colour. The brass wire -being too thick for the purpose of being cut into pins, is reduced to any -dimension the workman pleases, by forcibly drawing it through an orifice -in a steel plate, of a similar diameter. The wire being thus reduced to -its proper dimensions, is next straightened: it is then cut into portions -of six inches in length, and afterwards to the size of the pin, and each -piece respectively sharpened on a grinding-stone, turned by a wheel. We -now come to a distinct branch of the manufactory: the forming the heads, -or, as the workmen term it, head spinning: this is accomplished by means -of a spinning-wheel, which, with astonishing rapidity, winds the wire -round a small rod: this, when drawn out, leaves a hollow tube between the -circumvolutions: every two circumvolutions, or turns, being cut with -shears, form one head. The heads thus formed are distributed to -children, who, with great dexterity, by the assistance of an anvil, or -hammer, worked by the foot, fix the point and the head together. The -pins, thus formed, are boiled in a copper, containing a solution of -block-tin pulverized, and the lees of port; and by this last process, it -changes its yellow brassy colour, and assumes the appearance of silver or -tin. The labourers are all paid according to the weight of their work. - -Near Glocester, at the small island of Alney, formed by the river Severn -dividing itself into two branches, historians relate that Canute and -Edmund, after many bloody engagements in Essex, determined to prevent a -farther effusion of blood by a single combat. Neither, however, as the -story relates, obtaining a victory, peace was concluded, and the kingdom -divided between them. We paid, however, little regard to the supposed -place of this contest, as it was not for us puisne antiquarians to -discuss points, on which the greatest historians had so materially -differed. - -The roads round Glocester have been greatly improved of late years, more -particularly the one to Ross and Hereford, which was hilly, rocky and -generally dangerous: their texture and surface are now totally changed, -and, winding the hills, the gradual ascent removes both danger and -difficulty; the expense must have been enormous, and the traveller pays -proportionally in turnpike tolls; they are, generally speaking, round -Glocester and Hereford, the highest in England. Nothing can surpass the -excellence of the road from Glocester to Bristol, to which conveyances -are constantly going; and to such parties as have not visited that eager -bustling mart of trade, two or three days may be afforded with a -certainty of meeting with the most ample return for the trouble and -expense bestowed. The Church of St. Mary Redcliff, which is both ancient -and beautiful; the Abbey Church or cathedral; the docks; the charities, -and particularly that for teaching the blind to work; the hot wells at -Clifton; St. Vincent’s rocks, and the diminished vessels gliding on the -Avon; the beautiful views, mansions, villas, and pleasure grounds in -every direction in its vicinity, evincing at once the taste and opulence -of its merchants and citizens, but particularly those going to and -returning from King’s Weston, the view of Lord de Clifford’s mansion, and -the varied prospects it commands, as well as those from the park and -plantations, which are open to the public, constantly varying the scenery -on the Avon, Kingroad, and the distant Cambrian Alps, afforded pleasure -so exquisite to my romantic fancy, that for ten times the labour and -expense bestowed, I would not have debarred myself of them. Here most -happily are blended commercial riches and the life of trade with all that -nature’s bounty can bestow to please the fancy or delight the sight. - -The antiquity of Bristol is recorded by Gildas, who has set it down as -one of the principal fortified cities in Britain, when the Romans -abandoned the island in the year 430. But little mention is made of it -again in history till the year 1063, when Harold, the son of Earl Godwin, -embarked from Bristol with an army to wreak his vengeance on Griffith, -King of Wales, who had committed divers aggressions. After sailing along -the coast and landing his men at various points, he reduced the country -to yield obedience to King Edward, and having compelled the Welsh to cut -off the head of their king and give him hostages for their fidelity, he -returned again to England. - -The Castle of Bristol was formerly of great extent and strength, and is -repeatedly mentioned by historians for the gallant defences it has made, -and the noble prisoners it has held in safe custody; but it was not till -the time of Charles the First that it belonged to the city, when being -found to be a harbour and receptacle for rogues and vagabonds, it was -first added to the jurisdiction of the county of the city of Bristol, and -afterwards sold to the mayor and burgesses for 959_l._, to be held under -the manor of East Greenwich in Kent, at the yearly fee-farm rent of -40_l._ - -Both Henry the Second and Henry the Third, during their minorities, were -placed at Bristol as a place of security, at which they might receive -their educations. It was here in the year 1211 that the following -infamous act of tyrannic cruelty was exercised by King John. That -monarch having laid a heavy tax upon all the Jews throughout his -dominions, one of that race, named Abraham, having refused to pay the -tax, was fined in the sum of ten thousand marks; this the obstinate Jew -likewise refused to pay, which so much exasperated the King, that he -commanded one of his teeth to be drawn every day till the sum was paid; -the unfortunate Jew had seven of them taken out of his head, and then -submitted to the payment, rather than lose his last tooth, he having but -one left. - -Bristol sends two members to Parliament; the first regular summons by -writ was issued by King Edward the First, directing that two proper -persons should be sent as its representatives to the Parliament at -Shrewsbury. - -“King Henry the Seventh visited Bristol in 1490, and held his court in -St. Augustine’s Back, when the citizens, willing to shew the King all the -respect they could during his residence, arrayed themselves in their best -clothes; the King thinking some of their wives rather too well dressed -for their station, ordered that every citizen who was worth 20_l._ in -goods, should pay twenty shillings, for that their wives went so -sumptuously apparelled.” - -The present Cathedral was the collegiate church of the monastery of St. -Augustine, originally founded by King Henry the Second, and Robert -Fitzharding, father of Maurice, the first of the Berkeley family. At the -suppression of the monasteries by King Henry the Eighth, after that of -St. Augustine had been destroyed, with the exception of the gate, and the -west end of the collegiate church had begun to share the same fate, the -King changed his mind, and resolved upon erecting it into a bishopric, -directing the church to be repaired, and thenceforth termed the cathedral -church of the holy and undivided Trinity, appointing Paul Bush, rector of -Winterborn, to be the first bishop, appropriating the revenue of the -suppressed monastery, amounting to 765_l._ 15_s._ 3_d._ per annum, partly -to the bishop and partly to the chapter; consisting of a Dean and six -Prebendaries. He likewise took the county of Dorset from the see of -Salisbury, transferring it to that of Bristol. - -The interior of the Cathedral, though not to be named with those of -Glocester and Worcester, is still worthy of attention; particularly its -vaulted roof, those of the side aisles, and an emblematic picture of the -Holy Trinity, by Vansomers, over the altar. The windows of the side -aisles, which are of enamelled glass, are said to have been the gift of -Nell Gwynn. - -On the south-west of the cathedral are the cloisters; and at the -south-east corner of the cloisters is the bishop’s palace, which was in -great part rebuilt in 1744, when the following extraordinary circumstance -happened. “A parcel of plate, supposed to have been hidden during the -time of the civil wars, fell through the floor in the corner of one of -the rooms; this accident occasioned the floor to be taken up, when, to -the surprise of those persons present, a dungeon underneath was -discovered, in which were found many human bones, and instruments of iron -for torture; at the same time was laid open a private passage to this -dungeon, which passage was part of the original edifice; it was an arched -way only large enough for one person to pass, and was made within the -wall; one end led to the dungeon, and the other end to an apartment of -the house, which by appearance had been made use of for a court of -judgment. Both the entrances of this mural passage were walled up, and -so concealed, that no one could suspect the wall to be hollow.” - -St. Mary Redcliff Church, which is supposed to be one of the most -beautiful gothic structures of a parish church in England, next merits -attention. The present edifice was erected by William Caning, an eminent -merchant of Bristol, about the year 1456; the foundation having been -commenced by his grandfather of the same name, on the site of the former -church, built by Simon de Burton, in the year 1294. Caning having been -rendered unhappy by the death of his wife, and being pressed by the King -to a second marriage, he took holy orders to avoid an act so repugnant to -his feelings; he was afterwards Dean of Westbury, to which he was -likewise a great benefactor. He died in 1474, and was buried in the -south end of the aisle of this church, in which are two monuments erected -to his memory; in the one he is represented in his magisterial robes (he -having been five times Mayor of Bristol) with his lady by his side, with -a long inscription on two tables. In the other monument he is habited as -a priest. - -The roof, which is of stone displaying many curious devices, with much -good workmanship, and the lofty pillars which support it, are beautiful; -the interior, which consists of a middle and two side aisles, has a light -and highly pleasing effect, and is generally much admired. The altar is -very elegant and richly decorated, and over it are three capital -paintings by Hogarth. The organ, which is of great size and compass, -contains upwards of one thousand speaking pipes, and for richness of tone -is scarcely to be equalled. It was in a room over the north porch -entrance in an old chest that Chatterton, then a youth of seventeen, gave -out that he found the poetical manuscripts, ascribed to Rowley and -others, and said to have been written in the fifteenth century. -Chatterton’s father was sexton of St. Mary’s Redcliff and master of a -charity school in Pile-street, in which school, under a Mr. Love, who -succeeded his father, and at the Colston Blue-coat school, he received -his education. - -The Exchange in Corn-street is a noble building of freestone highly -finished; it cost upwards of 50,000_l._ The principal front is 110 feet; -it is of the Corinthian order upon a rustic basement. Next to the -Exchange stands the Post-office, and higher up on the opposite side of -the street, the Council-house, where the mayor or some other magistrate -sits daily to administer justice, from twelve till two o’clock. - -The charities of this city are numerous and extensive; the Infirmary is a -noble building, situate in Earl-street, St. James’s; it is conducted on -the most liberal plan. - -The port of Bristol has of late years been greatly enlarged and improved, -principally on a plan suggested by the Rev. William Milton, Rector of -Heckfield, Hants; an excellent engineer, and a man of most extensive -mechanical abilities, whose only reward for so great a service rendered -to this wealthy port was a present of a piece of plate; had he rendered -as great a service to the merchants and corporation of Liverpool, he -would most likely have obtained a handsome independence for life; for -although the charities of Bristol speak highly in its favour, still its -high spirit, its hospitality, or its generosity are not quite so -proverbial as those of Liverpool. - -The Hot-well is distant about a mile and a half to the west of Bristol, -in the parish of Clifton: the water is too well known for its great -efficacy in pulmonary complaints, and cases of general debility, to -require any recapitulation of its virtues, in this slight sketch of the -Hot-well and Clifton. - -As a place of fashionable resort, not only for invalids, but for -pleasure, its beautiful situation, both for walks and rides, the -gentility of the company that frequent it, the easy and well regulated -expence with which persons may with comfort and respectability reside -here, must always ensure it an overflow of company in the season. The -Avon below St. Vincent’s rocks is but little wider than it is at Bristol; -but as the spring tides rise from 30 to 36 feet, the heaviest ships can -navigate it at such times. - -St. Vincent’s rocks, overhanging the Avon, afford to the pedestrian, and -particularly to the botanist, an infinity of amusement; a great portion -of the plants, if not peculiar to this spot, are but rarely to be met -with elsewhere. - -These rocks are chiefly composed of a species of chocolate-coloured -marble, bearing a good polish; it is worked into chimney-pieces, &c., -with good effect, the refuse burning into a strong and beautiful white -lime. The reverberation of sound occasioned by the miners blasting these -rocks, and the dreadful crash of the masses thus hurled from their native -beds down the craggy precipices is grand and terrific; it is in the -fissures of the rocks thus opened that those beautiful crystals, called -Bristol stones, are found. - - - -CLIFTON - - -is one of the most charming villages in England. On every side the views -are beautiful; and although its population is great, still it has not -lost its rural appearance. From the salubrity of the air, numerous -respectable families have taken up their residence in the village and its -vicinity; but these elegant mansions being surrounded by their gardens -and shrubberies, they have prevented the ground from being too much -covered with buildings. - - - -KINGSWESTON, - - -the seat of Lord de Clifford, is about four miles north-west of Bristol. -It is a noble mansion, built by Sir John Vanbrugh, somewhat in his usual -style; but the situation according with the style better than usually -fell to the lot of that architect, it has a grand and noble effect. The -collection of paintings here are by esteemed masters, and very fine; the -gardens, hot-houses, &c. are kept up in very great style. The park, -which is richly wooded and beautifully diversified, offers a rich treat -to the painter; the varied prospects obtained at every turn and opening -of its numerous walks and vistas are as rich and extensive as nature in -this climate can afford. The whole, under very trifling restrictions, -are most kindly and liberally left open by his Lordship, for the public -to enjoy. Kingsweston inn, just above the park, is a comfortable house, -delightfully situated. - -To the west of Kingsweston, on a hill called Penpold, is a -pleasure-house: from this hill, which is of great height, the most -beautiful prospects are to be enjoyed. You look down on that fine sheet -of water, Kingroad and the Severn Sea; commanding alternately views of -Somersetshire, Glamorganshire, and Monmouthshire, with Wales in the back -ground; Glocestershire and Wiltshire: this with the bustle of the -shipping in the nearer sea view, so engage the attention, that time flies -unheeded by. - -From hence proceed to Shirehampton, a pleasing village, leading to a good -inn, called Lamplighters’ hall, a place of considerable resort, during -the summer months, to witness the busy scene at the mouth of the Avon: it -is situated close to high water mark, on the bank of the river, opposite -to Pill or Crockern Pill, where is a Custom-house, at which all vessels -leaving the port of Bristol are obliged to take their last clearance in -going out, and from which they are furnished with pilots inwards. The -ride from hence, when the tides are not too high, over turf to the mouth -of the Avon, is very fine. The house is built purposely to enjoy the -busy scene which the river and Kingroad here present; and its -accommodations are remarkably good, and the charges reasonable. - -Frenchhay, in Glocestershire, is about four miles north-east of Bristol; -the drive this way is beautiful, from the numerous noblemen and -gentlemens’ seats and highly cultivated grounds, which occupy both sides -of the road. It was here, during the war, that the great depôt of French -prisoners was established. - -At the east end of the common is a remarkable lusus naturæ, which was -taken out of a stone quarry at Downend; its form is an entire perfect -muscle, consisting of the upper and under shell, which are closed -together; its weight is nearly two tons. - -Bristol is but one stage from either the Old or New Passage; it is eleven -miles to the New, and nine to the Old. The mail and most of the coaches -pass their passengers, &c. by the New Passage, as saving a stage on the -Milford road. Chaises or horses are generally charged at the rate of -twelve miles to either. - -At Aust (or the Old Passage) it is about two miles over to Beachley, in -the parish of Tidenham, Glocestershire. This is the direct way to -Chepstow, Newent, and all the forest of Deane, Herefordshire, -Worcestershire, and the upper part of Monmouthshire. - -At the New Passage, it is about three miles over at high water to Port -Skewith, near St. Pierre in Monmouthshire. When the wind is S.E. or -N.W., it is directly across the river, therefore you must be at the -passage where you intend to cross, an hour before high water, as they can -only go over then, and that but once, there being no passage during the -flood or ebb. - -Should the traveller have before visited Bristol, or decline this -excursion, he will find the walk from Glocester to - - - -WESTBURY - - -is by no means uninteresting; the distance eight miles and three -quarters, through Highnam and Minsterworth; the country is studded with -half-seen villas, and animated with churches, whilst the retrospect -commands a fine view of Robin Hood’s hill, with the dark tower of -Glocester cathedral, just rising in the perspective. - -At Westbury is the seat of Maynard Colchester, Esq. The church, with a -detached spire, stands close to the house. Near this place mineralogists -will be highly gratified by visiting a cliff, called Garden, or Golden -Cliff; which is most beautifully encrusted with mundic and crystals. -This rock, standing close to the Severn, is only accessible at the reflux -of the tide: and when illuminated by the sun wears a most beautiful -appearance. - -Between Westbury and Newnham, in an extremely delightful valley, -bordering on the forest of Deane, is situate - - - -FLAXLEY ABBEY, - - -the seat of Sir Thomas Crawley Bovey. This valley was formerly called -Castiard, or the Happy Valley; and a monastery for Cistercian monks was -founded here by Roger, the second Earl of Hereford, and the charter -confirmed by King Henry II. The abbey was standing till the year 1777, -when part of it was unfortunately consumed by fire; since that a -considerable portion of building has been added, and it is become a very -desirable summer residence. The views from the park, behind the house, -are very extensive, commanding the vale of Glocester, and the river -Severn, gay with vessels; whilst the extensive forest of Deane, and -Flaxley Abbey, form nearer objects for admiration. This wood abounds -with the most charming walks; and while it affords refreshing shelter -from a summer’s sun, admits partial views of the adjacent country. -Camden, in speaking of the forest of Deane, derives its name from Ardene, -a wood, in the Gaulic and British languages. It lies between the two -rivers Severn and Wye, and contains thirty thousand acres. The soil is -well adapted for the growth of oaks and forest timber; and the situation -particularly commodious for exporting it for ship-building, and other -purposes. The immense quantities of wood annually felled for the use of -the navy have so thinned this forest of its timber, that it is now -preserved till a certain growth, by act of parliament. Camden observes, -that the oak of this forest was so considerable, that the Spanish armada -had orders to destroy the timber of it in the year 1588. It suffered -considerably in the great rebellion. - -The iron manufactory has long been carried on in this forest; and to this -day immense beds of iron cinders are found, the reliques of the Romans. -These cinders are not half exhausted of their ore, and are consequently -worked over again: a proof that the Romans knew only the weak power of -the foot blast. As we drew near - - - -NEWNHAM - - -the Severn became more considerable. The town, situated on the banks of -the river, and backed by the forest of Deane, is very ancient, and in the -year 1018, this manor was granted by King Canute to the Benedictine abbey -of Pershore, in Worcestershire. {23} The churchyard affords a variety of -objects worthy the attention of the passing stranger, amongst which the -church of Westbury forms the most conspicuous feature in the landscape. -The view, previous to our descending the hill to - - - -LIDNEY - - -is extensive and beautiful. In this place iron-works are carried on by -Mr. Pitchcock. About a mile from Lidney, the Old Passage.—King’s Road, -with the merchant ships lying off Bristol,—Glocestershire and -Somersetshire hills, studded with gentlemens’ seats, churches, and -half-seen cottages, form a cheerful landscape. - - - -CHEPSTOW. - - -The weather prevented our seeing the celebrated walks of Piercefield, but -we promised ourselves the pleasure of visiting them on our return down -the Wye. The castle of Chepstow, called Cagwent, or Castell Gwent, -stands on a rock washed by the river Wye, near its influx into the -Severn. Topographical writers differ in their accounts concerning the -antiquity of the castle, but it is generally supposed to have been built -at the same time with the town, appearing at that period to have been a -kind of citadel to Chepstow. {24} The castle was formerly of great -extent, as, according to Leland’s account, the “waulles began at the end -of the great bridge over Wy,” yet, “in the castel ys one tower, as I have -heard say, by the name of Langine.” Little now remains of its former -grandeur: but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended the -decayed steps of the tower, from whence the eye traced with pleasure the -windings of the Wye, till it was at last lost in conjunction with the -Severn. We examined the apartments in which Henry Marten, one of the -regicides, who sat to condemn King Charles I., was confined twenty years. - -Grand views of the Bristol Channel still continued to form interesting -objects from the road; but about three miles from Chepstow, we turned -into some fields on the right, to examine the ivy-mantled walls of - - - -CALDECOT CASTLE. - - -On our first entrance, we gazed with that rapt astonishment, which fears -to disturb, or be disturbed, by the mutual communication of thought. Mr. -Warner, in his survey of this ruin, was much disappointed; but I cannot -help allowing, although the view from it was inferior to Chepstow, that -its antiquated walls wear a nobler appearance; and the gloom that reigns -around it forces a sigh, and evinces the transitory nature of sublunary -greatness. The antiquity of the building is very obscure. Passing -through the village of Caldecot, we soon entered - - - -CAERWENT, - - -on the western side, through the broken fragments of its walls, of which -one immense mass has recently fallen. This ancient town is now a -village, with a few scattered cottages, but was formerly celebrated, -under the auspices of Agricola, for its temples, theatre, porticoes, and -baths; few vestiges of its former splendour are now extant. A few -fragments of loose stones only remain to point out its former extent. In -an orchard, adjoining a farm-house belonging to Mr. Lewis, is the -beautiful tesselated Roman pavement, discovered in the year 1777. The -tesseræ or dies, about an inch in breadth, and half in depth, are nearly -square, consisting of four colours, red, yellow, blue, and white, {25} -which are still in great preservation; the whole is surrounded with a -border, much resembling a Turkey carpet. The daily depredations on these -curious remains of antiquity are greatly to be lamented. - -In the road from Caerwent, amongst other objects for admiration, the -mansion of Sir Robert Salusbury, on the left, commanding an extensive -view, attracted our notice. Passing through the neat village of -Christchurch, animated with white-washed cottages, and graced with its -simple church, which stands on an eminence, we left the turnpike-road at -the thirteenth mile-stone; and following a footpath through some fields, -near the banks of the Usk, soon entered the ancient city of Caerleon. - - - -CAERLEON - - -has been celebrated in all ages of British History. It was a Roman city -of great power, strength, and importance, under the name of _Isca -Silurum_, and their chief station in the country of the _Silures_; and -equally, and perhaps still more known, for having been King Arthur’s seat -of government: a prince, equally renowned in history, chivalry, and -poetry. This city was formerly a metropolitan see, but Saint David, the -national saint of Wales, thinking the noisy intercourse of a populous -city, like Caerleon, ill adapted for contemplation, or the solitary cast -of his mind, removed it to Minevia, which from that period has been -called Ty Dewi by the Welsh, and Saint David by the English. {26} The -remains of its ancient grandeur are still discernible. Whilst tracing -the extent of its amphitheatre, surrounded by a circular entrenchment, we -took a retrospect on the exertions of man, the fate of kingdoms, and of -rulers; and, marking the grand destruction of ages, it seemed to convince -us of the transientness of human worth and happiness! - -Reascending Christ-church hill, we had a fine view of the county of -Monmouth like a map beneath us. Near - - - -NEWPORT - - -a new stone bridge has been erected by contract for ten thousand one -hundred and sixty-five pounds, by Mr. Edwards, son to the Edwards, who -built the famous Pont-y-pridd. It consists of five arches. - -The commerce and population of this town are greatly increased of late -years. As a sea-port it is safe; its chief trade is in iron and coal. -The Monmouthshire Canal communicates here by a basin with the Usk river, -and by that means with the Bristol Channel; and as the Monmouthshire -Canal again communicates with the Brecon Canal and the Avon, Ebwy and -other rail roads, Newport becomes the grand depôt for the heavier -articles of trade of that part of the interior of South Wales. The -Crumlin bridge branch is eleven miles five furlongs, its falls, three -hundred and sixty-five feet. Pontypool, eleven miles, falls four hundred -and forty-seven feet. Brecknock, thirty-seven miles seven furlongs. - -A circuitous, but more romantic route from Chepstow to Newport, is -recrossing the Wye, passing over the forest of Deane, through Saint -Briaval’s to Monmouth. The road is not bad, but narrow; if travelling -with a carriage, it will be necessary to be provided with a horn, which, -upon your sounding, if you find answered, you must wait till the party so -answering comes past. - -The views to the right over the Severn and Glocestershire are most rich -and extensive, and those from the summits of the overhanging rocks of the -Wye, awful and terrific: before you reach Monmouth the country becomes -thickly inhabited, which the beautiful situations it affords readily -accounts for; and from Monmouth to Ragland and Usk, the same continues to -be the case. - - - -RAGLAND CASTLE, - - -one of the finest ruins in Wales, (for although Monmouthshire is now an -English county, it formerly was Welsh,) stands near the village of that -name: it may be pleasantly and leisurely viewed in the day, with Usk and -Caerleon, affording time to reach Newport. - -The first view of it is considerably impeded by the surrounding trees, -but the closer inspection presents such a mass of ruin as well proves its -ancient strength and grandeur. From the citadel, which lies to the south -of the main building, the communication was by a drawbridge over the -moat, by which it was surrounded; it was a hexagon, apparently five -stories high, and of much strength, with bastions. - -Round the citadel were raised walks, and in the walls are small recesses. -A stone staircase still remains, leading to the top of one of the towers, -from which not only the ruins, but the adjacent country, are viewed to -much advantage. The two courts of the castle both communicate with the -terrace. - -The main entrance is magnificent, much overhung with ivy; the gothic -portal is defended by two massive towers, and the building being faced -with hewn free-stone, exhibits a less desolate aspect than it would -otherwise do. The whole range of offices and apartments appears to have -been on a splendid scale, and the building shows various specimens of -architecture, from the time of Henry the Fifth to that of Charles the -First. - -The large banquetting hall divides the two courts; it still retains the -arms of the Marquis of Worcester, with the motto “Mutare vel timere -sperno.” - -During the civil wars, Henry, first Marquis of Worcester, several times -afforded a refuge to Charles the First, but at length, when that -monarch’s fortune was past retrieving, Ragland Castle, after having been -various times summoned by detachments of the Parliamentary forces, was -regularly invested and taken by Sir Thomas Fairfax; a window is still -shewn, through which a girl in the garrison, by waving a handkerchief, -introduced his troops. The aged Marquis was sent prisoner to London, -where he died in the 85th year of his age, and his property having been -confiscated, and the castle dismantled, it became a prey to his own -tenantry, who pulled it down for the sake of the materials, but more -particularly for the staircases, of which they removed above twenty. - -At the Restoration, this with other estates was restored to the family, -but in such a state of ruin, that being considered unworthy their -repairing, it was left as an object of pillage to the vicinity, which it -has but lately, since its ruins have become venerable, ceased from being. -It appertains to the noble house of Beaufort. - -The library, which was here destroyed by the mad fanatic soldiery of -Cromwell, is greatly to be regretted, as it possessed Welsh manuscripts -of great importance; the collection was very large, and the loss not to -be estimated, many being unique. - -The domain appertaining to this princely residence was very extensive and -well arranged, and in Ragland Church are still to be seen the vestiges of -splendid memorials erected for Marquisses of Worcester, and other noble -personages. - - - -USK, or CASTRUM ISCA, - - -which is the next place of note on the route, is believed to be the -Burrium of the Romans. It was formerly a place of much note; its -situation is low, but capable of being rendered most beautiful, its -surrounding scenery holding forth the most tempting lures to improve -nature by art, at a trifling expense. - -The Usk is here become a noble river, and its fish, particularly its -salmon, are held in the highest estimation. Along the river is a -beautiful walk to the ruins of the castle, from which you gain a fine -view of the town, and the surrounding slopes and heights, and in few -places is to be seen so large a body of clear water, in so expanded and -rapid a stream. When I visited it, it was not the season for fishing, -but I must confess, I sighed to leave it behind me. To the flyfisher few -places hold forth such inducements to settle as Usk. I fancied myself in -a Swiss valley where I could cultivate my vines, my lavender, and my -roses, supply my table with exquisite fish and game, enjoy pure air, and -a fine climate. - -The best and pleasantest road to Caerleon is over the bridge to -Llanbaddock, three furlongs; by Llangibby castle, and Llangibby, one mile -two furlongs; to Llanhenock, three miles; Caerleon, two miles seven -furlongs; Newport, five miles. - - - -CAERLEON - - -boasts numerous inducements to stay the progress of the antiquary; it is -by some called the Isca Augusta, or Isca Colonia of the Romans, and was a -principal garrison, being the head quarters or main station of the second -Augustan legion, having under it numerous other stations. - -Mr. Cox states the shape of this ancient city to be an oblong square, -three sides straight, the fourth curved; the south angle is near the end -of the Round Table field, where the walls are nearly twelve feet thick; -the south-west side passes the amphitheatre parallel to the Usk; the -walls are again to be traced by the Broadway along the Benhouse field; -the west angle runs alongside the Malpas road; on this flank a gateway -leads to Goldcroft common; the north angle forms part of a stable in the -New Inn yard, is again visible in the Castle yard, and turns the east -angle near a rail-road by the Castle ditch; hence the line curves again, -touches on the foss of the Castle, passes through gardens, &c. and is -lost in a lane near the quay till it again becomes discernible near the -south angle. The circumference of the walls, in which there appear to -have been four gates, one in the centre of each flank, was about 1800 -feet. - -It was a station of the Prætor, and its splendid palaces, its stately -edifices and gilded roofs, might, according to Giraldus Cambrensis’ -exaggerated account, have vied with those of Rome itself; its baths, its -aqueducts, its stoves, and proofs of ancient grandeur, were even in his -time amply displayed in their ruins; numerous are the coins that have -been here collected and the riches this spot has afforded to the cabinets -of the curious. - -Between Caerleon and Newport is St. Julians, once the residence of Lord -Herbert of Cherbury: the walk to it in fine weather is pleasant, and -although now converted into a farmhouse, traces of its former -respectability are evident. In a small barn near to it are likewise to -be seen the remains of St. Julian’s abbey. According to some accounts, -such was the extent of Caerleon in the days of its grandeur, that it -extended as far as Christ Church and this place, and covered a tract of -country nine miles in circumference. - -Ascending the Gam, the ships in the Bristol Channel, with the islands -Flat and Steep Holmes rising in the midst of the sea, and the shores of -Somerset and Devon, formed pleasing objects in the distant view, whilst -the mellow green of nearer woods and meadows, watered by the Usk, made a -combination of views gay and beautiful. - -Newport Castle, standing on the bank of the river Usk, is a small -distance from the bridge: it evidently appears to have been once a place -of considerable extent, and built for the defence of the passage over the -river; three strong towers commanded the Usk, but towards the town, a -common wall, without any flanks, seems to have been its sole defence. -Some of the windows still remain, the relics of Gothic architecture, and -appear to have been elegantly decorated. From the tower is a fine view -of the Usk. Between Newport and - - - -CARDIFF - - -we crossed the little stream of Ebwith, near the Park of Tredegar House, -belonging to Sir Charles Morgan. The grounds are well planned, and -command the hills of Machen and Twynbarlwm, with the Church of Bassaleg -rising in the centre, on an eminence. The whole valley, indeed, lies -prettily. Passing through the villages of Pediston and Castletown, we -soon reached the bridge of two arches, over the river Romney, which -divides England from Wales. - -The situation of Cardiff is on a low flat, near the mouth of the Taff, -over which is a bridge, built by Mr. Parry, in the year 1796: it consists -of three large and two smaller arches. The tower of the Church is very -light, and of elegant workmanship; but there is nothing in the inside -worthy of notice. - -The Castle derives its name from the river Taff, which washes its walls; -Caertaph signifying the town or castle upon Taff. Robert Fitzham, on -having conquered Glamorganshire, divided the country into different -portions, among the twelve Norman knights, as a reward for their service, -and took for his own share the town of Cardiff; and erected, in the year -1110, this Castle, in which he generally resided, and held his court of -chancery and exchequer. In the beginning of May, 1645, during the -troubles under King Charles I., it was in the possession of the -Royalists, but it was surrendered to the Parliament before August, 1646. - -We entered the Castle by two strong gates, which still remain in great -preservation, but we were displeased with the modern architecture of the -new-built mansion; the neat shorn grass and the gravel walk were -circumstances that ill accorded with the mutilated walls of an ancient -ruin, which has braved the storms of so many centuries. The circumstance -which tends to ensure this castle a melancholy place in history, is the -unjust confinement of Robert, Duke of Normandy, brother to William Rufus, -and King Henry I. The accounts, however, of his confinement have been -greatly exaggerated by historians; but a dark vaulted room beneath the -level of the ground, measuring nearly a square of fifteen feet and a -half, is still pointed out as the place of his confinement; a small -crevice in the top, about half a yard in length, and three inches wide, -was the only place to admit the air. In this situation he died, after an -imprisonment of twenty-six years, and was buried in Glocester Cathedral, -where his effigy as large as life, carved in Irish oak, and painted, is -yet shown. - -The Keep, which is still very perfect, of an octagon shape, stands on an -eminence in the centre of a large square. Having walked round the -ramparts, which command extensive views of the adjacent country, we -visited the castle itself, which has within these few years, been -repaired, but still remains in an unfinished state. - -In the dining-room are some portraits, in length, of the Windsor family: -the most striking are, Sir William, who first raised forces for Queen -Mary. Sir Edward, who first entered the breach, at the taking of St. -Quintin, in Flanders, where the famous constable De Montmorency was taken -prisoner. - -In the breakfast parlour is a family piece, consisting of seven figures: -it was painted in the year 1568. Holbein, I rather imagine, was the -painter: it consists of two sisters playing at cards, and two brothers at -drafts, with Edward, Earl of Windsor, and his lady looking on. The style -is stiff, with ruffs, small black caps and feathers. - -Andrew Windsor, to the right of the fire-place; general _Kneller_. -in the reign of Queen Anne, serving in the -twenty-eighth regiment of foot -Thomas Windsor, to the left, who served in several wars _Kneller_. -of William and Queen Anne, and was colonel of the third -regiment of Dragoon guards, in the reign of King George -I. -Lady Ursula Windsor _Ibid_. -Hon. Master Windsor _Unknown_. -A good painting of Ursula, Countess of Windsor, with _Kneller_. -her grand-daughter Ursula Windsor -Thomas, Lord Windsor, governor of Jamaica _Vandyke_. -Hon. Charlotta Windsor _Dahl_. -Hon. Ursula Windsor _Ibid_. -Hon. Dixia Windsor, storekeeper of the ordnance, and for six -successive parliaments member for Cambridge. - -This Castle belongs to the Marquis of Bute. In this place, Robert, Earl -of Glocester, founded a priory of White Friars, and another of Black, -which continued till the reign of King Henry VIII. Only the shell of the -White Friars is now extant, and the ruins of the Black Friars are -inhabited by fishermen. It has only one church, which is of Norman -architecture, with a rich and handsome west door, and an elegant tower. - -The races at Cardiff, in October, are very good, and with the balls, are -frequented by a brilliant display of beauty and fashion; the ordinaries -are likewise well attended by the principal nobility and gentry of the -country, and are very good. - -From Cardiff we walked to inspect the remains of the once celebrated city -of - - - -LANDAFF. - - -The ruins of the old Cathedral are very beautiful; the door-cases are all -Norman architecture, elegantly moulded; two of which, on the north and -south sides, are fine specimens of that æra. All the other parts are -Gothic: the nave is unroofed. Within these ruins we entered the -Cathedral, which carries with it more the appearance of a modern theatre -than a place of divine worship, so erroneous was the taste of the -architect, in combining with the sacred Gothic a fantastical work of his -own. Among several ancient monuments, are two very elegant ones of the -Mathews family, {35a} whose descendants own the site of the bishop’s -castle, of which only the gate remains: the rest, with the archdeacon’s -house, was destroyed by Owen Glendour. {35b} There are likewise the -monuments of two Bishops, with another, and the figure of Lady Godiva, -full length, carved in marble on it. - -The present cathedral was built by Bishop Urban, about the year 1107: its -length is two hundred and sixty-three feet and a half, breadth sixty-five -feet, and height one hundred and nineteen feet; like Bangor, it has no -cross aisle. - -Near this city is the rural village and the castle of St. Fajans, -celebrated for a sanguinary battle, fought in its vicinity between the -Royalists and Republicans during the Protectorate of Cromwell, in which -the former were defeated with the loss of nearly the whole of their -troops. Landaff, although it ranks as an episcopal city, and was one of -the first places in the British dominions in which a religious -establishment was founded, boasting the erection of its first church A.D. -186, is now little better than a village dependant on Cardiff for its -supplies: even its clergy find few inducements to draw their attention to -it, beyond what duty requires: they possess a chapter-room, kitchen, and -office for the Proctor-general, yet seldom meet more than once a year for -the audit. - -Landaff stands on a small eminence, commanding a view of Cardiff and the -surrounding country.—We returned again to Cardiff, and the first six -miles of our road to - - - -CAERPHILY - - -were not very interesting, till ascending Thorn Hill, the beauties of the -vale below, with the Flat and Steep Holmes rising in the distant -prospect, the ruins of Cardiff Castle, and the ivy-mantled walls of -Landaff cathedral, amply compensated for the trouble of climbing this -eminence. A little farther on, Caerphily Castle burst upon our sight, -and - - —“seemed to frown - In awful majesty on all around.” - -The founder, and the time of its erection, are very uncertain; but I -refer my readers to the first volume of the _Archæologia_; to an -ingenious Dissertation, by Daines Barrington, where it is satisfactorily -proved to have been the work of King Edward I. This castle is one of the -noblest ruins of ancient architecture now remaining in the kingdom, and -exceeds all in bigness, except that of Windsor. The hall and the chapel -may still be traced; the former measures about seventy feet in length, -thirty-four in breadth, and seventeen in height. The roof is vaulted -about eight feet high, and supported by twenty arches. On the north side -is a chimney ten feet wide, with two windows on each side, extending down -to the floor, and carried above the supposed height of this room. At -each angle was originally a round tower of four stories, communicating -with each other by a gallery. On the west side of the hall stairs is a -low round tower, of one story, called the Mint-house, with three painted -arches on the south side, and a square well on the west. The leaning -tower, towards the east end, more particularly engaged our notice: it is -divided into two separate parts by a large fissure, which runs from the -top down almost to the middle. Its lineal projection is supposed to be -on the outer side about eleven feet and a half. On the west and north -are visible vestiges of a draw-bridge. - -The east wall, on the south side of the principal entrance, is fluted -between the buttresses, with battlements on their tops, to protect the -intermediate walls. - -This castle was that to which the Spensers retired in the reign of Edward -II. but being taken, there were discovered within the walls, 2,000 fat -oxen, 12,000 cows, 25,000 calves, 30,000 fat sheep, 600 horses, 2,000 fat -hogs; besides 2,000 beeves, 600 sheep, and 1,000 hogs salted: 200 tons of -wine, 40 tons of cider, and wheat for 2,000 men for four years. - -We now came to the celebrated - - - -VALE OF GLAMORGAN, - - -so justly styled the Garden of South Wales: the rapid Taff forms an -almost continued uproar for many miles; on the opposite side the -mountains rose almost perpendicularly in a massy wall, and sometimes to -the water’s edge, finely clothed with wood. Every circumstance conspired -to heighten the solitary grandeur of the scene, and to prolong the -luxurious melancholy which the views inspired. In this celebrated vale -is found the famous Pont-y-prid, or New Bridge, about three quarters of a -mile from the Duke of Bridgewater’s Arms. This wonderful bridge of one -arch is the segment of a circle; the chord of it is one hundred and forty -feet, and the height of the key-stone from the spring of the arch, -thirty-two feet and a half. It was erected in the year 1750, by William -Edwards, a country mason, who failed in his attempt three times, till, on -lightening the abutments, it has resisted for many years the torrents of -the Taff. - -This bridge, which in its present state is nearly useless, might, at a -very trifling expense, be made as useful as it is wonderful; but the -river, which is at most times fordable, renders this perhaps unnecessary. -Till this bridge was erected, the Rialto at Venice was esteemed the -largest arch in Europe; its span or chord being ninety-eight feet: but -this bridge is forty-two feet wider; being, it is supposed, the largest -arch in the world. - -Wales is generally remarkable for its white-washed cottages, the origin -of which custom is attributed to Glamorganshire: the cleanliness, as far -as this county is concerned, is chiefly on the outside; but so great is -their attachment to lime white, that even the stone garden-wall, the -pig-sty, or any stone within moderate distance of the cottage receives -its due share of attention; in some parts even the blue slate roof, which -to the eyes of an Englishman forms a happy contrast to the whitened wall, -is offensive to the eyes of the Welsh, and the roof undergoes the same -process as the walls. - -The intrusion of art in this romantic valley, where nature has been so -lavish of her beauties, is much to be lamented. A canal, for the purpose -of conveying the iron from the Merthyr works to Cardiff, renders that a -place of frequent business and confusion, which was originally so well -adapted to retirement and reflection. - -Not only the road from hence to Merthyr, but all the way from Cardiff to -that place, the road is esteemed amongst the best in Wales; the views -along it are likewise such as to keep the attention alive, nature and art -combining to give effect: in one place the rapid Taff is seen breaking -its way through the woody cliffs, to the lowest level of the vale, and in -the next instant the boats are seen navigating the canal, which winds its -course most strangely round the mountain’s brow, three hundred feet above -the current of the Taff. - -Long before you reach Merthyr, the blackened atmosphere points out the -site; but when immediately upon it, you are obliged to inquire where it -is, and the way to it: from Cardiff you approach it by the Plymouth -works, belonging to Mr. Hill: these lie wide and scattered, and are still -extending, the road passing through them for a considerable distance; -they are altogether worked by water, forming various fine falls from the -same source, viz. the Taff. - -After passing these, you appear entering on an extended suburb to a large -town; but the town itself is nowhere visible: it is without form or -order; in short, to get to your inn you can scarcely find your way along -the main road; for to dignify it with the name of street, is more than it -merits; yet here is collected together a larger and more bustling -population than any other town in the principality can boast; its markets -are large, well attended, and more than reasonable; its shopkeepers are -numerous and thriving; and all that seems to be required to make this -town one of the most respectable in the principality, is, a little -attention to order and cleanliness: the lower classes, it is true, are -miserably poor; still, even about the iron-works, there are so many -better provided for, and so much money is monthly put into circulation, -that but little trouble would be wanted to make it assume the appearance, -as well as enjoy the reality, of being a populous busy town of trade. - -The largest works at Merthyr are the Cyfartha, belonging to Mr. Crawshay: -these now consist of six blast furnaces, and two near the town, with -fineries, air and puddling furnaces, mill forges, &c. in proportion. The -blast is furnished by a steam engine of eighty horse power and an immense -overshot water-wheel, fifty feet in diameter, by seven feet in width: -this wheel rests on gudgeons which weigh one hundred tons: it consumes -about twenty-five tons of water per minute; part of the water is brought -a considerable distance along a trough supported by stone pillars; the -rest is furnished from the Taff. - -The gudgeons of all the wheels, and of such parts of the machine where -there is any friction, have water continually running over them, to -prevent their taking fire. It is the particular office of one man to -grease every part of the machine whilst in motion; to accomplish which, -he is frequently obliged to ride on an iron bar, similar to the lever of -a pump when in motion, a considerable way from the ground. The whole of -this machinery is worked by water, not more than a foot deep, which is -conveyed by a long spout to the top of the wheel, where it discharges -itself. The ore, lime-stone, and coals, which they use to promote the -fusion of the ore, are all found on the spot. The ore, previous to its -being thrown into the furnace, is burnt in a common lime-pit, the -goodness of it is afterwards proved, by its adhesion to the tongue: the -coal is all charked, and continually put into the furnace with certain -proportions of ore. From the pigs, the iron is rolled into flat plates -by a cylinder; this is performed with the greatest despatch. The gaunt -figures of the workmen excite both pity and terror, and the sallow -countenances and miserable air of the people prove it is a labour very -prejudicial to their health. - -Mr. Crawshay employs upwards of five thousand men in his works only; but -to form an estimate of the numbers employed, and the produce of iron -afforded, I subjoin the following list of the principal works in the -vales from Abergavenny to Neath, each furnace producing, on an average, -from forty-five to seventy tons of iron per week. The two large furnaces -belonging to Messrs. Crawshays, near to Merthyr, are said to have -furnished, for a short period, upwards of one hundred tons each per week. - - - -FURNACES. - -Clydac, or Llanelly (in the parish of latter) -Freer 2 furnaces -Blenavon, Hill 4 -The Varteg 2 -Nant-eglo, Bayley 4 -Beaufort, Kendal 3 -Ebro Vale, Harford 2 -Sirhowy, Harford 2 -Tredegar, S. Homfray and Co. 5 -Romney, Mrs. Hall 2 -Dowlass, Guest and Co. 8 -Penydarran, Forman and Thompson 5 -Cyfartha, Crawshays 8 -Plymouth, R. I. and A. Hill 5 -Aberdare, formerly Thompson and Scales, now Scales 3 -and Co. -Abernant, ditto, Tappendens 1 -Hirwaen 2 -Myers and company, four miles short of Neath, charcoal furnace, &c. - -The immense collections of cinder, or refuse from the ore, astonish the -beholder: it appears almost incredible, that the labour of man could -transport such quantities of materials; but when, added to this, you -reflect that nearly the whole has passed through the furnaces, and been -moved two or three times, how much is the wonder increased! In short, to -witness what immense capitals, indefatigable industry, and human -ingenuity can accomplish, in dragging forth the bowels of the earth, the -vales of the Taff from Brecon to Cardiff, and the very numerous vales -running parallel with the Taff, betwixt Abergavenny and Neath, should be -explored, both above ground, and in the mines; the value of the inclined -planes and rail-roads only would be immense. - -About three miles to the north-east of Merthyr, are the remains of Castle -Morlais, an extensive and singular ruin: it was originally a British -post, afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of Glocester, in the reign of -Edward I., and the source of a quarrel betwixt that nobleman and Humphrey -de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, which brought down the anger of the monarch -on both their heads to such extent, as to subject them to fine and -imprisonment: it was so completely destroyed by the Parliamentary army in -the seventeenth century, that its form and extent are difficult to trace; -a small keep, or look out, on the most elevated part of its scite, still -however remains: its upper story is much dilapidated; and the walls as -well as roof, nearly destroyed, except the door-way and window, which are -of freestone: from the top of one of these, the view of the Black -Mountains, &c. is most extensive: the lower apartment (part of the -vaulted roof of which has at length yielded to time, and the injuries of -the animals who have resorted to the upper apartment for shelter) has -once been curious; the arches, twelve in number, which supported its roof -sprang from a pillar in the centre; the rib of the arch is freestone, and -shows good masonry; the wall is likewise rubbed stone, part of which has -been defaced, apparently to see if it communicated with any other part of -the castle, or contained any thing worthy the searching for. The -pleasantest way for an active person to ascend to this ruin, is at the -bridge above the Cyfartha works, to take the right bank, ascending the -little Taff: for some distance you pass along the quarries, and at length -reach a path cut through the woods, along the banks of this romantic -stream: the termination of the path obliges you to incline to the right, -and passing two fields, you begin to ascend the hill between a stone wall -and extensive lime-stone quarries, belonging to the Pendarren works. The -ascent is steep; but if fine, you are amply repaid, on reaching the -summit, by the extensive views you command. Dowlass works, which, as -well as Cyfartha, have eight furnaces, are seen from here to great -advantage. The descent to Merthyr, along the rail-road from the -lime-stone quarries you passed in ascending, is easy and pleasant, -running alongside the beautiful grounds of Mr. Forman, formerly belonging -to Mr. S. Homfray, and which a former tourist describes as containing all -of elegance or comfort that Merthyr can boast of. From hence we -travelled the road to Pont Neath Vechan, the first part of which is -hilly, rough, and through a barren country; but the latter half is rich -in scenery, sublime and awful, from pendent rocks and gushing cataracts, -and worthy the time and observation of the admirer of nature’s beauties. - - - -PONT NEATH VECHAN. - - -About a mile and a half from Vechan, we unexpectedly descended by an -excellent road through a wood into a rich romantic valley, watered by -Neath river. In this retired situation we found the Angel inn, of Pont -Neath Vechan. Description can scarcely suggest the full grandeur and -magnificence of this valley: woods, rocks, and waterfalls, all unite to -render it beautiful. Our Cicerone first conducted us to the fall of -Scotenogam, on the river Purthen, about a mile and a half from the house. -This fall we saw to great advantage, the river having gathered in its -course the accumulation of many torrents after the rain, precipitated -itself into one majestic expanse of water, near seventy feet high; whilst -the dark lowering rocks, on each side, contrasted finely with the varied -vegetation around us. The descent is by no means easy; but the grandeur -of the scene amply compensated for all difficulties. Our Cicerone next -conducted us to a very inferior one, called the Lady’s Cascade, on the -river Neath; but of this we caught a very indifferent prospect, the -ascent of the mountain being inaccessible, and the water too high to -admit of our obtaining a due inspection of it. We then returned to our -inn, and set out on a different road, in quest of nature’s -landscapes.—Having walked about three miles, we heard the angry roar of -small cascades; these we considered preludes to scenes of nature’s -grandest cast, where the rushing waterfall swells into a torrent; and -accordingly we soon found ourselves near the fall of Lower Culhepste. -The character of this cataract differs very much from that of Scotenogam; -being broken in its descent from projecting rocks, of an immense size. -About a quarter of a mile from hence we descended a rugged and steep -rock, to examine the fall of Upper Culhepste, about fifty feet high. The -singularity of this fall invites the curiosity of the traveller more than -any other in Wales: the whole river precipitates itself with such -violence, as to leave a space between the rock and the fall sufficiently -wide for a horse-path. Though in less than two minutes we were -completely wet by the spray, yet the effect was awful and sublime; and it -was necessary to remember the fixed foundation of the rocks above our -heads, to soften the awe they inspired. “The effect of sunshine on the -cascade,” says Mr. Malkin, “when behind it on a fine day, is both grand -and beautiful. The particles of water glittering with a silvery -brightness, as they fall; the uncommon brilliancy of every thing without, -seen through such a medium, contrasted with the dark green of the moss, -everlastingly wet with spray; the corroded dinginess of the rock; the -damp and vaporous gloom of the atmosphere within; altogether form a -singularly mingled scene of awe and gaiety.” - -Near this fall is Porthogo Cavern, through which the river Vendre runs. -The water was too high to admit our entrance; our conductor, however, -informed us, he had penetrated about half a mile, but found the river -wind so many ways, he judged it safer to return, lest he should share the -fate of a poor man, who lost himself in this cavern for the space of -three days. On our return, a very intelligent gentleman, staying in the -neighbourhood, strenuously recommended us to descend a steep mountain, on -our left, to survey a curious quadrangular strata of marble in the rock -below. With some difficulty we effected our purpose, having waded twice -through the river. This strata in Welsh is called _bwr maen_, which -signifies a stone bow: it is situated close to the river Dynnas, which, -forcing its way through some broken fragments of the rock, forms a -cascade a little above. The price offered for this grey marble, in -London, is fifteen shillings a foot square. - -About five miles from Vechan, is the seat of Mrs. Holbrow, on the right. -We were prevented visiting the waterfalls of Melincourt and Aperdulas, -the river, owing to the late floods, being too deep to ford. Our route -still continued through the valley we had so much admired the evening -before. As we drew near - - - -NEATH, - - -the tower of Knole Castle had a pleasing effect from a distance: it was -built by Sir Herbert Mackworth, and is at present in the possession of H. -I. Grant, Esq. The windows from the banqueting-room command a circle of -many miles in diameter, composed of Neath valley and river, with the -smoky town of Neath—the Mumbles’ Point—Swansea, and the Channel. The -artificial cascade is well contrived; but, after the foaming torrents of -Scotenogam and Culhepste, appears very tame. - -The site of the refectory, the chapel, the hall, and several other rooms, -in the ruins of Neath Abbey, may still be traced. It stands on the east -of the river, and was formerly, by Leland’s account, the “fairest abbay -of all Wales;” but in his Collectanea {47} he seems to give Margam the -preference of all the Cistercian houses in these parts. It was founded -for white monks, by Richard de Granville. About the time of its -dissolution, it contained only eight monks and was valued at 132_l._ -7_s._ 7_d._ per annum. In this abbey the unfortunate King Edward II. -secreted himself in the year 1326, when prevented, by contrary winds, -from his intended escape to Ireland; he was soon, however, discovered, -and confined in the castle of Kenilworth, under the custody of the Earl -of Leicester. Near the ruins are the copper-works: the ore is chiefly -imported from Cornwall and Wicklow in Ireland; being calcined, and -thereby losing its sulphur, it is refined by the simple process of -frequent melting, and taking off the dross, which forms a scum: lastly, -being moulded into small plates, or pigs, it is shipped for the market. -The method of reducing the metal, when melted into small particles, is by -pouring it into water; and when thus reduced, it is called copper-shot. -Brass is a compound of copper thus reduced, and lapis calaminaris -pulverized in crucibles, and moulded or cast into plates. Lapis -calaminaris is dug in great quantities near Holywell in Flintshire. - -Neath, although surrounded by beautiful scenery, is itself unpleasantly -situated: it is low, the streets narrow, the buildings old, and there is -in the first view of it an air of desertion and poverty, that sets the -traveller against it; yet it possesses some trade as a sea-port, in -coals, iron, and copper, for which it is now considerably indebted to its -canal, which communicates betwixt Aberdare and Britton Ferry. The ruins -of the castle still exist, but possess no particular merit, derived -either from strength, beauty, or antiquity. A navigable canal has been -made to communicate with all the interior parts of the country to Pont -Nedd Vechan. The market days at Neath are Wednesdays and Saturdays. It -is one hundred and ninety-six miles one furlong from London. Near Neath -is Cringell, the residence of Wm. Davis, Esq. author of a History of this -County; and about a mile up the vale of Neath, is Cadoxton Lodge, near -which is a cascade. The road from hence to Swansea is very good, and not -incommoded by the smoke of the copper-works, as it was formerly; but for -horse or foot passengers, though more circuitous, there is a pleasant way -by - - - -BRITTON FERRY. - - -This village is much resorted to, on account of its beautiful situation; -and many a white-washed cottage straggles through the hamlet. The -plantations of the Earl of Jersey, late Lord Vernon’s, are well disposed, -and edge the water’s brink: the river is constantly filled with vessels, -whose gay streamers glittering to the sun-beam, present to the eye a -constant moving object. The richness and beauty of this spot is scarcely -to be equalled in all the principality: and the climate is so mild, that -myrtles, magnolias, fuschias, and other tender exotics, grow luxuriantly -in the open air. The church-yard is very beautiful, and beneath the -shade of its trees a friend of the Editor of the present Edition wrote -the following lines: - - When death has stolen our dearest friends away, - Some tears to shed is graceful:—but to mourn - Loudly and deeply, that their pains are o’er, - Is but to prove, we lov’d ourselves far more, - Than e’er we cherish’d, lov’d, or valued them. - To bear misfortune with an equal mind; - To mount the aspiring pinnacle of fame, - With a warm heart, and temperate resolve; - To curb the rage that prompts to wild revenge; - To pay the malice of an envious throng - With pity and forgiveness; and to weep, - With tears of joy, that our most “useful” friend - Has paid the debt Eternity demands, - Alike bespeak nobility of mind, - And the proud hope, that heaven’s decrees are just. - Stranger! of peasant or of royal line; - Treasure these thoughts, and Autumn’s yellow leaf - Shall never fill thine aged eyes with tears! - -Having crossed the Ferry, we proceeded on the sands to - - - -SWANSEA. - - -The whole of this walk commanded a boundless view of the ocean to the -west, whilst to the south the faint hues of the Somersetshire coast -skirted the horizon. - -Swansea, or Abertawe, is a well-built sea-port town, on the river Tawe, -much resorted to during the summer months. The machines for bathing are -kept about half a mile from the town. The castle is supposed to have -been erected by Henry, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of King Henry I.; -and is at present the property of the Duke of Beaufort; the small arches -round the top of it are exactly similar to the building of Lantphey -castle, and King John’s Hall, St. David’s, Pembrokeshire. This castle is -now turned into a gaol and workhouse. The market-place is said to be -covered with the lead of St. David’s cathedral, given by Cromwell to a -gentleman of Swansea. - -The clay used for the pottery, long carried on in this place, is brought -from Corfe, in Dorsetshire: having been mixed with finely-ground flint, -and dissolved in water, it is passed through sieves, till it has lost all -its coarser particles; then exposed to heat, which evaporates the water, -and leaves the clay of a consistency sufficient for working. The vessel -is first rudely formed by the hand, the clay being stuck to a circular -board, which has an horizontal rotation. The other operation consists in -the more perfect forming of the work by various processes, and the -colouring, glazing, painting, and stamping; drying and baking kilns -complete the work. - -The harbour of Swansea, which is large, has had great sums expended upon -it, without much judgment having been evinced in the expenditure: the -piers, which are extensive, are already frequently wanting considerable -repairs, and will always be a source of emolument to those who know how -to make the most of a good job. Swansea Bay is beautiful, and the sail -from Swansea to Ilfracombe, one of the pleasantest and cheapest I ever -enjoyed. The entrance into the latter harbour is grand and terrific; the -stupendous rocks by which it is sheltered and enclosed, impressing the -mind, on a temperate day, with that pleasing awe, which in a more -tempestuous time, “when the raging billows roar,” would amount to horror -and dismay. Ilfracombe affords comfortable accommodation to remain at; -but to remove inland, you have to send to Barnstaple for a conveyance: it -is a most romantic situation. Swansea is seen to great advantage from -the bay, its best front being towards the Channel; it is a mixture of -good and bad, of old streets and new, wide and narrow, pride and poverty, -much show and little wealth. The market, which is on a Saturday, is -greatly improved of late years, and not only affords comforts but -luxuries; yet Swansea, except to those who are acquainted with it, is a -more expensive place to reside at for a short time than an English -watering place: still those lodgings, which are so highly rated during -the season, are comfortable retreats to half-pay officers during the -winter months; and from the mildness of the climate, and many families -taking up their residence at it during that period, Swansea, were it not -for the faults and greediness or mismanagement of some of its -inhabitants, would rise to wealth and respectability. The playhouse is -respectable, and the performers generally good, but badly repaid for -their exertions. The post-office is here very regular, and conveyances -to Bristol, Gloster, or London, although expensive, regular and safe. A -walk may be comfortably enjoyed in five minutes after a shower, or -between showers, without wet feet; and both drives and rides in the -vicinity are numerous and beautiful. The libraries are good, -well-supplied, and civil, and the shops accommodating, and plentifully -stocked: still I should think the traveller would take more money at -Merthyr than Swansea, and four times as much at that little high-spirited -place, Caermarthen, as at either; such at least must be the case, if any -criterion is to be formed from the quantum of circulating medium -required, as gained from the requisitions for the exchange of the new for -the old coinage, Caermarthen having wanted upwards of 20,000_l._ and -Swansea not having required 4,000_l._ The mail road to Caermarthen is by -Pontarddylais, nine miles; Llanon, four miles; Caermarthen, thirteen. -Swansea is about two hundred and five miles from London. Its population -consists of 10,255 inhabitants. It has some trade to the Baltic; and -more than 100,000 chaldrons of coals are annually exported. - - - -OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE, - - -about five miles from Swansea, is finely situated on an eminence, -commanding a delightful prospect of the surrounding country, and the -Mumbles’ Bay. The ivy-mantled walls of this castle are sufficiently -perfect to distinguish what the apartments were originally designed for. -It formerly belonged to the lords of Gower, but is now in the possession -of the Duke of Beaufort. It is a majestic ruin, standing in a bold -position, commanding a beautiful view of the country, the Bay of Swansea, -and surrounded by broken cliffs. The walls are so little injured by -time, that the design of the apartments may easily be traced. The -general figure is polygonal; the ramparts lofty, but not flanked with -towers, except just at the entrance. It is a good specimen of the Gothic -style; and is ascribed to the Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry the -First. Our curiosity being satisfied, we hastened to the - - - -MUMBLES, - - -celebrated, far and near, for the goodness and abundance of its oysters. -This village stands at the extremity of Swansea Bay, on a vast mass of -splintered rock: from this elevation the wide expanse of the ocean and -Swansea Bay are viewed to great advantage. These rocks are inaccessible -at high-water, except in a boat; on the farthest is erected a -light-house, serviceable to the navigation of the British Channel. The -lodging-house above Oystermouth, called Thistle-boon, commands a fine -view of the Peninsula of Gower; the Bay of Swansea on one side, and that -of Caermarthen on the other. - -At Pennard we descended some immense sand-banks, which led us into Oxwich -Bay: at the head of the sandbanks are the small remains of an old castle, -{53a} scarcely worthy of observation. The sands in this bay are -extremely fine, and the bold projections of the rock exhibit nature in -her most awful and impressive attitudes. To the right of Oxwich Bay is -situate, at Penrice, {53b} the seat of Mr. Talbot: the grounds are well -planned, and command extensive views of the sea: the old castle, rising -behind the house, gave the whole a fine effect. It has been converted -into an aviary. Lady Mary Talbot, (now Cole), has the most beautiful -flower garden in the whole principality. - -Between Penrice and the neat village of - - - -CHERITON, - - -we observed to our right, on a hill, a large flat cromlech, several tons -weight, resting on about six smaller ones, placed perpendicularly, and -standing about five feet high: this is vulgarly called King Arthur’s -stone. The lifting of this stone in its present place is mentioned in -the Welsh Historical Triades as one of the three arduous undertakings -accomplished in the Island of Britain. On a hill, opposite our inn, we -discovered evident vestiges of a Roman encampment. From this elevation -the eye caught a fine view of Caermarthen Bay, and the bold promontory of -Worm’s Head, to the south-west: this rock is only accessible at low -water. - -The country through which we traversed for the four or five last miles, -is inhabited by a colony of Flemings, who settled here in the reign of -King Henry I. In the reign of this King’s father, a great number of -Flemings having been driven out of their habitations by a very -extraordinary inundation of the sea, sought protection in England, where -they were cordially received. But so many of these people being -dispersed in different parts of the kingdom, began, by the increase of -their numbers, to create some uneasiness; which King Henry I. removed, by -settling them as a colony in South Wales, and gave them the country -adjoining to Tenby and Haverfordwest. By this wise policy, the king rid -his own dominions of an incumbrance, and curbed the insolence of the then -rebellious Cambrians. {54} The little territory they inhabit is called -_Gwyr_; and by the English, Little England beyond Wales: because their -manners and language are still distinguishable from the Welsh, and in -point of speech assimilate the English. These Flemings, to this day, -seldom or never intermarry with the Welsh: they speak good English, and -are very much averse to the manners and language of the country they -inhabit; both sexes generally distinguish themselves by wearing a short -cloak, called _gowyr wittle_. - -In preference to a long walk, of near thirty miles, we crossed the river -Bury, at Loughor, in the church-yard of which village we found the -following epitaph: - - The village maidens to her grave shall bring - Selected garlands, each returning spring: - Selected sweets! in emblem of the maid, - Who, underneath this hallowed turf, is laid: - Like her, they flourish, beauteous to the eye. - Like her, too soon, they languish, fade and die. - -From Loughor we proceeded to - - - -LLANELLY, - - -a miserable dirty place, filled with miners and sailors. From hence to - - - -KIDWELLY, - - -the road leads over the Penbree hills; and from this elevation, the -scenery is viewed to great advantage. - -The castle of Kidwelly, otherwise Cathweli, was formerly, I imagine, of -great extent, and is still the most perfect we had hitherto met with in -Wales. The extent of the apartments is distinguishable; some of the -staircases accessible; and the four round towers, keep, gateway, and -yard, spread an awful gloom around, whose beauties time had just -sufficiently impaired, to heighten its grandeur and sublimity. To this -castle King John retired, when at war with his Barons. Our guide -expatiated much on the history and events of the castle, and told the -story with as much agitation and interest, as if it had happened -yesterday. The road to - - - -CAERMARTHEN - - -we found unpleasantly hilly, but occasional valleys to our left enlivened -our walk. Near Caermarthen we crossed a bridge of freestone over the -Towy. This river, running through the middle of this shire, falls into -the British Sea at Caermarthen Bay, and is navigable for small vessels as -far as the bridge. Immediately over it, upon a hanging rock, stand the -remains of a once renowned castle. This town was the site of a Roman -station, _Maridunum_, and, according to Giraldus’s authority, was -anciently a place of great strength, and fortified with brick walls, -which are yet partly extant, near the river. This place, now considered -as the capital of the county, was formerly the residence of the Prince of -South Wales; and the ancient Britons here held their parliaments. The -chancery likewise, and exchequer for South Wales, were kept here, when -this territory was first erected into a principality, by the crown of -England. In the thirty-eighth year of King Henry VIII. it was created a -borough-town. - -No part of Wales can boast a more generous or higher-spirited people than -the gentry in the vicinity, and the inhabitants of Caermarthen. Its -trade is likewise considerable, as the circumjacent country, for a very -considerable distance, is dependent upon it for the common luxuries, and -what are now deemed, even in Wales, necessaries of life, for which they -bring for sale or barter the most simple article of the native produce; -and you may frequently see the basket that has been brought for miles, -not contain a sixpenny-worth of herbs, eggs, &c.; yet this trifle is to -them of consequence, and enables them to add to the little stock of tea, -tape, or pins, which they require. The busy scene of a Caermarthen -market is highly interesting, particularly to one fond of the study of -political economy. - - “Man wants but little here below, - Nor wants that little long.” - -How cheap must be the subsistence of a party who can walk twelve or -fourteen miles to earn sixpence, or disburse a shilling or -eighteen-pence, and how few must be their weekly wants which so small a -sum can satisfy! It is true, they divide this labour, and each take -their turn of village or neighbourly duty. The market of this place is -not only extremely reasonable, but excellent; hardly excelled in quality -by any but Worcester, the cleanliness and beauty of the exhibition of -which beats all England. Caermarthen has abundance of good meat, fish, -poultry, butter, wild-fowl, and game. In December, 1819, I bought three -fine turkeys for nine shillings, fowls from eightpence to one shilling -each, and other things in proportion; still the taxes are the same as in -England, and good land is high rented; but the wants of the tenantry are -fewer; small farms are abundant, and every cottage has its garden and -plot of ground, as well as waste land generally: fuel is likewise cheap. - -The view from Caermarthen over the Towy is beautiful, and not to be -enjoyed any where to greater advantage than from the back rooms of the -Ivy Bush inn, or the terrace walk in the garden. Its population is rated -at between 7 and 8000, and its houses at about 1200. The market days are -Saturday and Wednesday. It is 231 miles from London, by Bristol, and 216 -by Glocester. - -The mail arrives from London at nine in the morning, and departs at two -o’clock in the afternoon generally. I should feel it the height of -ingratitude, if I failed to notice the great attention paid to strangers -who attend divine service at the church: not only are they immediately -accommodated in comfortable pews, but prayer-books are supplied to them -by the son of the clerk. In short, I witnessed that courtesy and -attention to strangers, and backwardness to receive remuneration, that I -never saw evinced at any other place. - -The late Ivy Bush was the house of Sir Richard Steele, who obtained it -and his property in this neighbourhood by marriage with the heiress of -Jonathan Scurlock, Esq. After the death of his wife he retired to a -small farm-house, called the White House, lying about a mile from -Caermarthen, and there he wrote his celebrated comedy of the Conscious -Lovers. - -At some distance from Caermarthen are several very remarkable caves: -whence Merlin is supposed to have delivered his oracles. - - Of Merlin and his skill what region doth not hear? - Who of a British nymph was gotten whilst she play’d - With a seducing spirit. - - _Drayton_, _Polyolbion_, s. v. - -Caermarthen gave birth to Merlin, who is styled, by an ancient author, -“the sonne of a badde angell, or of an incubus spirit, the Britaine’s -great Apollo, whom Geoffrey ap Arthur would ranke with the south-saying -seer, or rather with the true prophets themselves; being none other than -a meere seducer, and phantastical vizard.” He flourished in the year -480. - -Some few years after this tour, I took the road to Caermarthen from -Ragland, through Crickhowel, Brecon, Llandovery, and Landilo. Passing -through Abergavenny, we paused for a few days at Crickhowel, where we -amused ourselves in fly-fishing in the river Usk. - -Crickhowel stands in the centre of a vale, scarcely surpassed by that of -the Towy; and is supposed to have been built in the time of Howel Dha, -about the year 940. The castle presents little to attract attention. -The church contains some few ancient monuments; but the principal objects -for a traveller are to be found at a short distance from the town; viz. a -remarkable cave south of Langattock; a waterfall in a dingle, leading to -Llanelly iron-works; the remains of a castle, on what is called the Camp -Hill; and the beautiful village of Lambeter, the walks of which are, of -themselves, almost worthy a journey into Wales. The society around -Crickhowel is highly respectable; but there are no noblemen’s seats, and -only one park within the distance of many miles. The natural scenery, -however, amply compensates. - -From Crickhowel we proceeded to a village, named Cwmdu, situated between -two chains of mountains. The village is poor to the last degree, but the -land is rich; and the valley, in which it is situated, may be called the -granary of Brecknockshire. There is scarcely a field on the lower sides -of the hills, that does not present a spot favourable to build upon. -From the farm and house, called Cwmgû, is one of the most beautiful views -in all Wales; commanding, as it does, the vale of Usk, the river winding -through it, innumerable fields, a high mountain towards the north, the -town of Crickhowel on the east; the ruins of Tretower below; a woody hill -rising above it; and, from a field at a short distance from the house, -the double head of the Beacons, towering, as it were, into the clouds. - -Brecon, or Aber Honddu, is a very romantic town; with good inns, and -every accommodation for a respectable family. The views around it are -beautiful; the Priory groves, as a public walk, are the most delightful -in all Wales, perhaps in Britain; while the castle, the priory, and other -fragments of antiquity, afford ample materials for the contemplation of -those who connect scenes with former events. For within the walls of the -castle was planned the union of the two houses of York and Lancaster. - -Passing through Trecastle, a miserable village, once a large town, -possessing the ruins of a castle, we entered a valley, winding for six or -eight miles at the feet of mountains, and presenting at every step -something to admire, we arrived at Llandovery, or Llanymddvri, situated -on the banks of the Brane, near the head of the upper vale of Towy. Here -we found the remains of a small castle, once in the possession of -Richarde de Pws; small in dimensions, and uninteresting in its history; -but the town derives some notice from its having produced Rhys Prichard, -author of a book, well known in almost every Welsh house by the name of -the _Vicar’s book_. He sleeps here without inscription or monument. - -From Llandovery the road and the Towy proceed to Llandilo through a -country at once rich in fertility, and beautiful in point of scenery. -Llandilo is remarkable for a battle, fought in 1281, between Edward the -First and Llewellyn the Great. It has no feature in itself worthy of -attention; but its environs are beautiful to the last degree. - -About a mile from this town, on the road to Caermarthen, are the ruins of -Dinevawr Castle, the most celebrated spot in the principality. This -castle was erected by Roderique the Great in the year 877. So much have -been written of these ruins, of the noble park, belonging to Lord -Dynevor, and the country round, that I shall merely observe, that, after -passing a few hours in admiration, we passed on to Grongar Hill, and sate -beneath the hawthorn, under which Dyer is supposed to have written his -beautiful poem. I cannot, however, refrain from quoting a passage from -Spenser, where he describes the Cave of Merlin, which he places near the -rocks of Dinevawr. - - If thou shouldst ever happen that same way - To travel, go to see that dreadful place: - It is a hideous, hollow, cave-like bay - Under a rock, that has a little space - From the swift Barry, tumbling down apace, - Amongst the woody hills of Dinevawr. - But dare thou not, I charge, in any case - To enter into that same baleful bower, - For fear the cruel fiends should thee unawares devour. - - But standing high aloft, low lay thine ear; - And there such ghastly noise of iron chains, - And brasen cauldrons thou shalt rumbling hear, - Which thousand sprights with long enduring pains - Do toss, that it will stun thy feeble brains. - And often-times great groans, and grievous stounds, - When too huge toil, and labour them constrains. - And often-times loud strokes, and ringing sounds - From under that deep rock most horribly rebounds. - - FAERIE QUEENE, B. iii. Cant. 3. - -The view from Grongar Hill is inexpressibly beautiful. To attempt -describing it would only be showing the poverty of human language. - -From this spot the road winds to Caermarthen with many a graceful curve, -through a country presenting a multitude of objects for the pencil of an -accomplished painter. - -The regular road to Tenby is by St. Clears, nine miles one quarter: Cold -Blow, ten miles seven furlongs; left to Tenby, eight miles and a quarter; -at St. Clears, is the Blue Boar, and at Cold Blow, the Windsor Castle; -but should the Tourist prefer the coast to the regular road, I should -recommend him to visit Llanstaphan castle, at the mouth of the Towy; a -large and venerable ruin, memorable for the siege it sustained about the -middle of the twelfth century, when defended by Meredith ap Gruffydd, who -defeated all the attacks of the Normans, &c. who besieged it. The -village, which is now resorted to for sea-bathing, is situate at the -bottom of the hill. At high water, there is a ferry to the village on -the opposite side: at low water, at particular periods, the sands may be -crossed on horseback; but strangers should not attempt this without a -guide. From Llanstaphan the Tourist may proceed by Llaugharne, Green -Bridge, &c. - -From Caermarthen we were recommended to go to - - - -LLAUGHARNE, - - -in order to see the castle; but it by no means answered our expectation: -little part of it now remains; and the neat gravel walk in the garden is -ill adapted for the mutilated walls of an ancient ruin. From the -neighbouring heights, grand and extensive sea-prospects interest the -traveller. At this place was born the once celebrated Dean Tucker. One -mile distant is another ruin called Rock Castle, but supposed to have -been a monastery. About five miles from Llaugharne, we passed a small -place, called - - - -GREEN BRIDGE. - - -It derives its name from an excavation in the rock, through which a -little rivulet runs for a mile and a half. This cavity is completely -concealed from the road, and impossible to be discovered, unless pointed -out. But I would advise travellers to alter their route from Swansea, -and pursue the straight road to Caermarthen, by Pontarddylais, where is a -comfortable inn, and so to Tenby, by Narbeth. By these means they escape -the unpleasant roads (and almost, indeed, inaccessible for carriages), -leading from Oystermouth to Cheriton, and likewise from Llaugharne to -Tenby. But should the Tourist be led by an invincible curiosity to -inspect the ruins of Kidwelly Castle, it may easily be accomplished, by -pursuing the turnpike road to Kidwelly, and from thence to Caermarthen. -In this last route you only omit visiting the seat of Mr. Talbot, of -Penrice, though an object highly worthy of inspection. - -At Saunders’ Foot is a small bay, formed on one side by a rock, called -the Monkstone, and on the other by the Caermarthenshire coast. Near this -place is situate the seat of Captain Ackland; and from thence to Tenby, -the dark lowering rocks rose perpendicularly to a considerable height, -and then branched out into overhanging crags. It was now dusk;—and at -this transforming hour, the bold promontories became shaded with unreal -glooms,—the projecting cliffs assumed a more terrific aspect,—and the -wild, overhanging underwood - - “Waved to the gale in hoarser murmurs.” - - - -TENBY - - -is much resorted to during the summer months for bathing. It stands on a -rock facing Caermarthen Bay: the bold promontory of the Monkstone Head to -the north, and St. Catherine’s Point to the south, form a fine -amphitheatre. The shore is well adapted for bathing; the machines -excellent; and a singular rock, rising in the sea close to the shore, -shelters the bathing machines even in the most boisterous weather. On -the south of Tenby, at the extremity of the small island of St. -Catherine’s, attainable at low-water, are the remains of a Roman Catholic -chapel. Entirely through this island is a singular perforation, which, -without any difficulty, may be penetrated at the reflux of the tide. The -views from the south sands are remarkably beautiful; the character of the -rocks is here awfully wild, craggy, and impending; and the distant -fishing-boats, with their white sails, and the voices of the fishermen, -who constantly frequent this coast, borne at intervals on the air, are -circumstances which animate the scene: whilst the islands of Caldy and -St. Margaret’s opportunely rise, to render the terrific ocean beautiful. -The retrospect is equally interesting; the neat town of Tenby, with the -mutilated walls of its castle, closes this charming scene. - -The ancient walls of Tenby are still sufficiently perfect to show its -former strength and extent; and the four round towers, standing on the -extremity of the rock, point out the situation of its castle. Near this -is a ruinous building, supposed to be the remains of a Flemish -manufactory, probably woollen. On the north sands is likewise another -walk, equally beautiful, commanding the whole extent of Caermarthen Bay. -On the summit of the rocks, over these sands, is the walk called the -Croft. - -Tenby is greatly indebted to Sir William Paxton for his exertions in -improving it. The inconvenience it so long laboured under from want of -water has been, through his means, completely removed, and that most -necessary article of life is now enjoyed by its inhabitants in great -purity and profusion. - -From the general high state of perfection, and transparent clearness of -the sea-water at Tenby, it has become a place of that fashionable resort, -that both hot and cold sea-water baths became requisite for the comfort -and infirmities of its numerous genteel visitors: these Sir William has -likewise caused to be erected on the most convenient plans, with -extensive reservoirs, dressing, and lounging-rooms, &c. under the -superintendence of Mr. Cockerell. The bath-house is beautifully situated -outside the harbour, adjoining the Castle Hill: an excellent -carriage-road leads to it; and a large vestibule is allotted for servants -to wait in: lodgings and refreshments are likewise provided for such as -require them. The dressing-rooms for the warm and vapour baths are -raised to any temperature by warm air; and there is a cupping-room, -provided with all necessary apparatus, for such as require that -operation. - -The principal inns and hotels are Shaw’s, Jenkins’s, the Lion and the -Bull; there is a theatre, bowling-green, assemblies, billiard-rooms, -library, &c. &c. Horses are to be hired: and both rides and walks, in -the vicinity, are beautiful and abundant. - -This place, from the vast quantity of fish caught near the coast, is -called Tenby-y-Piscoid. The Church of Tenby is a large, handsome, and -antique edifice, and contains several monuments, bearing an ancient date, -worthy of notice. On the left of the altar is one to William Risam, with -the following inscription: - - Two hundred pounds - and 50 more - He gave this towne - to help the poore. - - The use of one on cloth - and coles bestowe - For twelve decrepid mean - and lowe. - - Let 50 pounds to five - Be yearly lent - The other’s use on Burges’ - sonne’s be spent. - -On the same side is a monument to the memory of John Moore, Esq., who, at -the age of fifty-eight, and having by his first wife six sons and ten -daughters, fell desperately in love, which not being returned, he died of -a consumption at Tenby. The following epitaph is very allusive to his -unfortunate catastrophe: - - He that from home for love - was hither brought, - Is now brought home, this God - for him hath wrought. - -Another monument to Morgan Williams: - - Igne probatur - En animus rursus clare in corpore - MORGAN WILLIAMS, - descended from the heiress of - Robert Ferrar, Bishop of St. David’s, - Burnt alive by bigots under Q. Mary; - was lately chief of Gargam, - and senior in council at - Madras. - Where Oct. 27, 1690, aged 49 years, - he resign’d the President’s chair - and his breath together. - An employment of full thirty years - chronicles the continual - approbation of his conduct, - particularly as - chief commissioner of the circuit. - -To the south of Tenby are some insulated rocks, in which are many curious -excavations, and several islands, the principal of which is Caldy Island, -consisting of about 600 acres, 200 of which are in a state of -cultivation. The tower of its ancient priory is still standing. - -If the Tourist has leisure and opportunity, many excursions may be made -during his stay at Tenby. The first and most important is, to Pembroke -and Milford Haven. The road affords many grand and extensive sea views, -with a faint prospect of Lundy Isle. About four miles from Tenby stand -the ruins of Mannorbeer castle, {67a} supposed to have been erected about -the time of William Rufus. A little farther on, the ivied-mantled walls -of Carew Castle {67b} burst upon us; and, about three miles from -Pembroke, the decayed and broken walls of Llanfeth, or Lantphey Castle, -attracted our notice, once the residence of the Bishops of St. David’s, -but now a monument of desolation. The three buildings of Swansea Castle; -Lantphey Court; and King John’s Hall, St. David’s; are very similar in -their workmanship. We now arrived at - - - -PEMBROKE. - - -Mr. Wyndham has so minutely delineated the present state of this castle, -that I cannot do better than transcribe his account: - - “The approach to Pembroke from the river shows the town and castle to - the most beautiful advantage. The town is situated upon the ridge of - a long and narrow rock, gradually ascending to the highest point, on - which stands the castle, at the brink of the precipice. If I may - compare small things with great, it much resembles the situation of - Edinburgh. - - “The castle is of Norman architecture, mixed with early Gothic. The - principal tower, which is uncommonly high and perfect, has even its - stone vaulted roof remaining. The walls of this tower are fourteen - feet in thickness, the diameter of the space within is twenty-five, - and the height, from the ground to the crown of the dome, is - seventy-five feet; but visible marks appear within, that its height - was originally divided by four floors. - - “King Henry VII. was born in the present castle. The natural cavern, - called the Wogan, lies immediately under the chapel, and opens with a - wide mouth towards the river. A communication from the cavern to the - castle was made by a staircase, on the outside of the rock; the - entrance was barricaded with a strong wall, partly remaining, through - which there is now a large door-way opened to the shore of the river. - The cavern appears nearly circular; its diameter is fifty-three feet; - and its height is proportionable to the diameter. - - “In the civil war this castle was a garrison for the crown; and being - besieged, made a gallant defence.” In a cavern under this castle is - a remarkable echo. - -Pembroke is by many still considered the next town, in South Wales, to -Caermarthen; but, although the situation is fine, and the main street -good, still the residue of the town shows evident symptoms of decay, and -that it lacks that trade and notice which Haverfordwest is deriving from -its downfall. It gives the title of Earl to the Herbert family. - -The two churches within the walls are ancient. St. Michael’s is of -Norman architecture; it is at the east end of the town: St. Mary’s in the -centre of it. The priory church has its nave vaulted with stone; it is -paved with glazed bricks, with arms, flowers, &c. upon them. Near the -church is the prior’s mansion, which still exhibits proofs of its former -splendour and the large establishment of its possessors: it is now become -a humble dilapidated farm-house; and, to trace its origin, you must go to -the foundation. In 1811 Pembroke contained 501 houses, and a population -of 2415 persons. From hence is a pleasant excursion, the account of -which, as given by Mr. Fenton, in his work on Pembrokeshire, I subjoin:— - - “Quitting the magnificent ruins of Pembroke, pass through Monkton, - from the height of which an admirable view may be attained; reach Dry - Burrows, a furzy moor, covered with tumuli. To the left stands - Orielton. Here, turn to the right, passing Castleton, still you will - observe various tumuli: from this height to the right, the navigation - from Pennarmouth to the town of Pembroke. The coast here is famous - for oysters of superior excellence, in inexhaustible quantities. - Descend by Hênllan, anciently inhabited by the descendants of - Gwynfard Dyfed: hence to Pwllcrochon church-yard, upon a small creek - of Milford Haven, in which a memorable skirmish took place between - the king’s and parliament’s forces. The parish church of - Rhôscrowther is dignified with a handsome tower, and the interior - contains some figures well sculptured: distant a quarter of a mile - stands Iestingtown, or vulgarly Iseston, long the residence of the - family of Meares; it appears to have been castellated. Not far from - the church is a well, called St. Degmen’s, to which great virtues - have been ascribed. Skirting the Bay of Nangle, reach the village of - that name, so called from being somewhat placed _in angulo_. It - bears marks of former consequence: in the church is a monument to - Brigadier Ferrars. To the north of a brook, running behind the - church-yard, are the remains of a considerable building, with a - square tower, called the castle, said to have been the principal - residence of the Sherborne’s, ancient Lords of the Vill; it is now an - inn. Hence along the coast is a block-house, a singular building, - reared upon the very edge of a horrid precipice overhanging the sea, - fronting another upon the dale side of Milford. The masonry of these - buildings is excellent; their origin is uncertain. Leaving Bangeston - on the left, after passing over a sandy tract, you reach the village - of Castle Martin, an ancient British post, part of the works of which - are still remaining. A little further is Merion Court, belonging to - Lord Cawdor; and, near to the village, to the north-east, a British - circular camp. The road now passes the extremity of Lord Cawdor’s - property at Brawnslade, farmed on the most improved principles. - Still further along the coast is Bully Bear, where are the remains of - a fortified camp. Hence to Linney Point, and the Head of Man, a - promontory of great height, awfully overhanging its base: near this, - a fine view of an insulated rock, called Pennyholt Stock, pass the - Wash to a Danish camp; in which is that wonderful chasm called the - Caldron: the entrance to the camp is by a winding ascent; it has been - of considerable extent and great strength; and, with the Caldron and - rock, most curious and worthy of observation. Bosherton Meer is - occasionally agitated to such an extent as to be heard at a - considerable distance—resembling thunder, and its foam rising many - feet above the mouth of the pit. At a short distance to the east, is - a fissure in the cliffs not discernable till nearly on its edge, - called Penny’s and Adam’s Leap, over which these hunters were - precipitated: proceed to the Horse Block, and St. Govan’s Chapel and - Well, to the latter of which great virtues are ascribed. The - surrounding scenery is in the highest degree picturesque: the larger - bay is surrounded by cliffs, in the form of an amphitheatre; that in - which the hermitage is placed is truly romantic. In proceeding to - Stackpool Court, after again gaining the height, you pass Buckspool, - and from thence to Bosherton; below the village, pass under a tongue - of land, on which are the remains of a strong encampment; near this - is a small cavern, in the Limestone Rock, where human bones have been - found. Harold is said to have infested this coast, and to have left - marks of his predatory victories inscribed— - - Hick Haroldus victor fuit. - - Of three stones, the most east stands in Stackpool Park Warren, - pitched upon one end; the second, surmounting a carnedd, is in a - field called Horsestone Park, consisting of a great mass of - limestone, six feet above the ground, five in breadth, and a foot in - thickness; it is bedded in an almost circular mound of stones. The - third stone is upon the same line, but more west; it is the tallest, - almost incrusted with a minute lichen.” - -Stackpool Court (from the broad rock at the mouth of Broad Haven) is the -elegant seat of Lord Cawdor. It is on the west side of the pool, on a -fine eminence, at the edge of a bold declivity. It bore originally a -castellated form, but lost its ancient baronial character. In the civil -wars it was fortified and garrisoned for the king. The walls were so -strong, that the ordnance made little impression. The present mansion, -which occupies the same site, is of wrought limestone; its architecture -is heavy. Lady Cawdor has contributed to Mr. Fenton’s Tour, from her own -pencil, a charming view of this vicinity, taken near the bridge, in -crossing from the house to the park. The house has two fronts, the -principal one facing the pleasure-ground, the other opening to a fine -piece of water. You enter the latter front from a broad terrace, -extending to the whole length; and, after descending, it continues to the -extent of a spacious conservatory. The house is formed into many fine -apartments, and the library is large. In one room, containing family -pictures, is a whole length of Lord Cawdor, by Sir J. Reynolds, and -another of Lady Cawdor, by Sir W. Beechey. The offices are well -arranged, and the stables form a detached large quadrangular building. -Of Stackpool, says Mr. Fenton, without straining a compliment, there are -few places which display more magnificence without, or more sumptuous -hospitality and elegant comforts within. But, to sum up the importance -of this place, be it known that it stands in the midst of a property of -fifteen thousand acres of most valuable land! Opposite is the park, well -stocked with deer, deformed by some barren sand-banks, and at present -deficient in wood. The borders of the lake, and the pleasure-grounds, -are, however, richly wooded. Between the park and the sea there is a -warren, formed of mountains of sand, and consolidated by that valuable -plant môrhesg (juncus maritimus), sea or mat rushes. The lake is -abundantly stocked with wild fowl, which collect at a call, and consent -to be fed like barn-door poultry. - -Passing along the park, enter the pleasant village of Stackpool, where -the ancient lords’ vassals resided: hence descend to a vale on the right, -where a private gate leads through a woody avenue to the church of -Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur, so named from its founder. It stands at -the head of a sequestered dell; is a plain building, with a tower; -consists of a nave and chancel, having two small aisles on the south -side. On the north side of the chancel, under a wrought canopy of stone, -lies a cross-legged knight, said to represent Elidur de Stackpool, the -first possessor of Stackpool; the same whom Giraldus mentions, who took -the cross at the time that Archbishop Baldwin made his transit through -the country. Ascend to St. Petroc’s, a rectory in the gift of Lord -Cawdor: the church is small, but very light and neat. The only -conspicuous monument is a handsome mural marble tablet, to a Lady Jane -Mansell, wife first of Sir Roger Lort, and afterwards Sir Edward Mansell, -of Muddlescombe, Bart. in the County of Caermarthen. The rectors of this -place have been observed to live to a great age. - -At a short distance from Stackpool stands the chapel of St. Gowen, -situated in a fine amphitheatre of rocks, rising immediately over the -sea. In respect to this scene, the Author of the Beauties, Harmonies, -and Sublimities of Nature, thus expresses himself:—“As for you, my -Lelius, never shall I forget your enthusiasm, when we visited the chapel -of St. Gowen, situated among those stupendous rocks, which, forming a -semicircular area towards the sea, commands a noble prospect of the coast -of Devon. The language you employed on that interesting occasion, never -can I be so base as to forget! ‘If our prayers are at one time more -acceptable than at another, it must assuredly be in those moments when -our souls are elevated by such scenery as this! Often have I been awed -to devotion at Rome and at Loretto, in the presence of Canons, Bishops, -and Cardinals; but here, in the rude simplicity of nature, I feel my -spirit separate, as it were, from the tenement which has so long chained -it to the earth, and wing its course directly up to heaven! The -magnificent area, in which this small chapel is situated, is a temple -more sublimely grand and affecting than all the mosques of Turkey, and -all the cathedrals of France, Italy, or Spain.’” - -At Pembroke we hired a boat, {74} intending to sail round the extensive -Haven of Milford; and, as we retired from the shore, we took a retrospect -of the dilapidated walls of the castle, once the terror, and even in -ruins, the pride of the scene. It is most advisable to make this -excursion at high water, as it adds much to the picturesque scenery of -the _tout ensemble_. - - - -MILFORD HAVEN, - - -is justly compared to “an immense lake; for, the mouth not being at any -distance visible, the whole haven seems land-locked. Though it is a mile -and three quarters wide, it could not be defended against an enemy, nor -is there a sufficiency of timber in the neighbourhood. {75a} - -“This haven is formed by a great advance of the sea into the land, it -being above ten miles from the southernmost point at Nangle to Pembroke, -beyond which the tide comes up to and beyond Carew Castle. It is capable -of holding the whole navy of England; and the same is said of Cork -Harbour. {75b} The spring tides rise thirty-six feet, the neap above -twenty-six. Ships may be out of this haven in an hour’s time; and in -eight or ten hours over at Ireland, or the Land’s End; and this with -almost any wind, by day or night.” - -“In surveying the estuary of Milford Haven,” says a writer, whom we shall -frequently have occasion to quote, “expanding into one of the finest -harbours in all Europe, and wearing the appearance of an immense lake, -sufficiently large to contain the entire navy of the British Crown, -secure from winds and tempests, and where a large fleet might manœuvre -with the greatest safety,—what ideas of power and magnificence are -awakened in the mind! Then by a magic glance we traverse the tempestuous -Channel to the Irish coast, and call to mind the various crimes and -injuries which that ill-fated country has committed and received. -Returning to the spot whence we had travelled, beholding the creeks and -bays, the woods, and various agreeable accompaniments, which embellish -this majestic estuary; who is there that does not derive the highest -satisfaction in recalling to memory the beautiful scene in Cymbeline, -where Imogen, in the character of Fidele, has flowers sprinkled over her -grave, and a solemn dirge performed in honour of her memory?” - -Our reception at the miserable place of - - - -HUBBERSTON, - - -did not induce us to stay longer than was sufficient to recruit -ourselves. We found the dirty inn pre-occupied by unfortunate Irish -refugees: their situation was indeed melancholy; driven from their -country, their friends, and all most dear to them!—And wishing to forget -their past sufferings, the following lines seem applicable to their -situation: - - “Oh! Could oblivion’s friendly draught - Soothe all our sorrows to repose; - Nor that intruder, restless thought, - Renew our agonizing woes! - - “Then, all unconscious of the past, - The present hour might calmly glide; - Keen retrospect no more be cast - O’er life’s tempestuous, changeful tide: - - “Yet Heaven, to all its creatures kind, - With peace can gild the deepest gloom; - And, ’mid misfortune’s wrecks, the mind - May sweet serenity assume.” - -Having refreshed ourselves, we walked to - - - -MILFORD, - - -a small village, opposite Hubberston: several comfortable houses are -situated on the hill, commanding a delightful view of the haven. Such -was Milford when originally described in this work: but it now ranks as a -town of some consequence in Wales. The haven, from its extent and -safety, held forth such great inducements to improve the vicinity, and -gradually to raise it into consequence as a seaport, that the Right Hon. -Charles Greville, whose property it became on the death of Sir W. -Hamilton, obtained an Act of Parliament for the building of the town, and -the privileges it was to enjoy. After having selected the situation, -which is one of the finest parts of the haven, Mr. G. laid down the -ground-plan of the streets: the principal ones run in parallel lines east -and west, and in the direction of the shore, with short streets of -communication intersecting them at right angles. The houses are -generally good, and many calculated for the residence of opulent -families. - -The church is near the haven, at the east end of the lowest street. The -windows contain the arms of Hamilton, Barlow, and Greville. The tower, -at the west end of the edifice, is very conspicuous in sailing up the -haven. The custom-house is at the lower end of the town, by the water -side. The dock-yards are immediately in front of the town: they are -calculated for the building of line of battle ships, as well as frigates: -it was formed after a plan by Lord Spencer. Packets are stationed here -under excellent regulations, for the conveyance of the mails and -passengers to Waterford. - -The mail from London arrives here every evening, and departs in the -morning. Markets are held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. - -To the west of Milford is Priory Pill, on the opposite bank of which is -Haking, or Old Milford. Wet docks were about to be established on this -creek, but the design was abandoned. Between Haking and Hubberstone is -the observatory and mathematical school. Being satisfied with our day’s -excursion, we again returned to our comfortable quarters at Tenby, which -we left with regret a few days afterwards. - -We again pursued the Pembroke road; and, about two miles from Tenby, the -neglected walls of - - - -CAREW CASTLE - - -invited curiosity;—and, - - “Deep struck with awe, we mark’d the dome o’erthrown, - Where once the beauty bloom’d, the warrior shone: - We saw the castle’s mouldering tow’rs decay’d, - The loose stone tott’ring o’er the trembling shade.” - -This castle, once the residence of the famous Sir Rhys ap Thomas, I -imagine, was intended more for a noble residence than a place of defence. -The walls of this building are very thick, and constructed with stones of -a large size, strongly cemented with mortar. It is situated on a branch -of Milford Haven, and consists of a range of apartments built round a -quadrangle, with a circular tower at each corner. The south wall is -entirely demolished; but the north consists of a spacious hall, measuring -one hundred and two feet by twenty, supposed to have been built by Sir -John Perrot: above and under this hall, are noble apartments and -extensive offices. This castle appears to have been erected at different -times, if we may judge from the architecture. Every ledge of the walls -of the towers, denoting the different stories, was embossed with -vegetation, which seemed to grow from the solid stone. Over the -gate-way, at the west side, are the arms of England, Duke of Lancaster, -and Carew; and contiguous to this entrance is another spacious room, -measuring eighty feet by thirty. - -The village of Carew is poor: there is, by the side of the road, a cross, -fashioned out of a single stone, fourteen feet high, and carved all over. - -Leaving Carew, we crossed a small bridge over an arm of Milford Haven, -and continued our route across a barren and uninteresting heath; till, -descending to the village of - - - -CRESSELEY, - - -the luxuriant plantation of firs, belonging to Sir William Hamilton, -attracted our attention. Small vessels constantly frequent this quay, -from whence a quantity of small coal is shipped to different parts. From -hence the road is extremely barren and unpicturesque; but, about three -miles from - - - -LANDSHIPPING, - - -an arm of Milford Haven again burst upon our sight. Near it is situated -the uninhabited house of Sir William Owen. In crossing the ferry, Picton -Castle, the property of Lord Milford, formed a prominent feature in the -gay scene; and Slebitch, the seat of Mr. Philips, standing at the end of -the Haven, contributes considerably to this picturesque prospect. The -grounds of - - - -PICTON, - - -through which we passed, about five miles in extent, seemed to be well -planned, and kept in excellent order. This castle has always been -inhabited; and, having escaped the fate of all other castles in Wales, -during the civil wars, it retained, till very late, much of its original -external form. - -Mr. Fenton’s description of this noble spot is so correct and energetic, -that I shall, in justice to him, as well as to Picton, here insert it. -“Picton castle owes its beauties to circumstances that wealth cannot -supply, or titles confer; circumstances that age, and an unbroken line of -ancestry in its possessors, have given value to, and have made venerable; -an ancient structure, that nothing can so much disfigure as an attempt to -modernize, and make less so;—a castle (and I believe a solitary instance) -never forfeited, never deserted, never vacant; and that never knew a -melancholy blank in its want of a master; from whose walls hospitality -was never exiled, and whose governors might be said to have been -hereditary; a castle in the midst of possessions and forests coeval with -itself, and proudly looking down over a spacious domain, on woods of -every after-growth, to an inland sea, bounding its property and its -prospects beyond them; for such is Picton Castle.” - -The ground plan occupies an oblong area, having three large projecting -bastions on each side. At the east end was the grand gate, with a -portcullis between two similar bastions: this, without any injury to the -general aspect, has yielded to a modern entrance, as has the moat and -drawbridge, to a terrace, with an open parapet: the additions at the west -end are not so fortunate: they injure the appearance, but add to the -comforts of the castle, as a modern residence; affording Lord Milford -more ample scope for that noble hospitality which he so liberally -exercises according to the usage of his ancestors. - -Lord Milford possesses a fine cabinet of drawings by eminent masters, -collected in Italy by Sir Erasmus Phillips, his uncle. The park is well -wooded, but destitute of deer. The gardens, forcing houses, &c. &c. are -very extensive, and in high order. - -A beautiful walk, which passes near the old encampment, called Castle -Lake, leads to Slebech, an ancient commandery of the Knights of St. John -of Jerusalem, but neither trace nor vestige of the old commandery are now -to be found. The church is ancient and respectable, but not large; it -contains two figures in alabaster, believed to be of the Barlow family. - -Returning again to Picton, at the extremity of the park, a good turnpike -road soon conducted us to - - - -HAVERFORDWEST, - - -which is considered as one of the largest towns in South Wales. It is -very irregularly built, on the declivity of a hill, which is, in some -parts, so very steep, that the ground-rooms frequently overlook the -neighbouring roofs; yet there are some good houses. It is considered as -a county of itself, and sends one member to parliament. The town was -formerly fortified by a strong wall, or rampart, on the western summit; -the shell of a once extensive castle is still remaining; this is now -converted into a gaol. - -The parade, commanding a cheerful view of the neighbouring country, and -the ruins of an ancient abbey, extends for a considerable way, by the -side of a hill. At the extremity of this walk stands the ruins of an -ancient priory of black canons; the remains are now very inconsiderable, -but we easily traced the chapel, over one end of which is an arch, still -in good preservation, and beautifully enwreathed with the rich drapery of -ivy. - -The castle, which was built by Gilbert de Clare, first Earl of Pembroke, -was a strong edifice; but the keep now only remains; and that has been -converted into a gaol. From its elevated situation, it has a commanding -appearance, and an air of ruined grandeur, more interesting than the -proudest modern edifice can boast. - -Haverford is called by the Welsh, Hwlfordh. {82a} Having finished our -survey of Haverford, we started early the next morning, proposing to -breakfast at - - - -NEWGIN BRIDGE, - - -where we understood we should meet with every thing comfortable; but, to -our disappointment, we found a most miserable, dirty pot-house, destitute -of even the common comforts of life. I recollected Shenstone’s -complimentary lines on an inn, but could not apply them on the present -occasion: - - “Whoe’er has travell’d life’s dull round, - Where’er his stages may have been, - May sigh to think that he has found - The warmest welcome at an inn.” {82b} - -The road from Haverford to Newgin we found very uninteresting; and the -shell of - - - -ROACH CASTLE - - -did not detain us long. It stands on a rocky eminence, now completely in -ruins, with only one tower remaining. “Roach Castle (says Leland) in -Rouseland, to the right of the road to St. David’s, shews a round and -some double out-works, visible at a great distance. It belonged to the -Lords Ferrars, and old Langeville, Knt. of Bucks.” - -In descending the hill to Newgin, the dark lowering rocks, which form -that fine bay, called St. Bride’s, exhibited a grand prospect. In the -centre of this bay is situated Newgin, bounded on the south by the island -of Skomar, and on the north by Ramsay. The fields adjacent to this place -have been frequently inundated by extraordinary overflowings of the sea: -at the reflux of the tide, the sands admit of most excellent walking. - -The saunter from hence to the city of - - - -ST. DAVID’S, - - -now properly deserving the name of a village, was rather more captivating -than our walk before breakfast: it was occasionally enlivened by the -prospect of the wide ocean, boundless to our view on one side, whilst -before us the fantastic shapes of the rocks off St. David’s Head, -exhibited nature in her most awful and striking attitudes. Above the -rest, Caern Thydy lifted its bold promontory, as if to give effect to the -rude landscape. About half way between Newgin and St. David’s, the -beautiful little village of Solva unexpectedly burst upon our view; -studded with neat white-washed cottages, and enclosed on each side with -lofty rocks, which here form a picturesque and interesting chasm. These -rocks, indeed, I could almost imagine were torn asunder by some -convulsive rent of the earth. The cathedral, and dilapidated ruins of -the episcopal palace, are situated at the bottom of a steep hill, and -scarcely visible in the town: these, and the prebendal houses, were -formerly enclosed by a strong stone wall, with four gates, computed at -eleven hundred yards in circuit. David, {84} the national saint of -Wales, with the consent of King Arthur, is said to have removed the -metropolitan see from Caerleon to Menevia, which has ever since been -called Ty Dewi by the Welsh, and St. David by the English. What was the -condition and extent of this town formerly, it is difficult to say, -having been so frequently destroyed. At present it is a very small city, -and has nothing to boast but its ruined palace, and old cathedral, -dedicated to St. Andrew and St. David, which has often been demolished; -but rebuilt, in its present form, by Bishop Peter, according to Giraldus, -in the reign of King Henry II.; or, as Willis, in the year 1110, in Rhos -Vale, below the town. It is still esteemed a noble pile, consisting of -two transepts, measuring in length, from east to west, three hundred -feet; and the body with the aisles, seventy-six feet broad. - -Behind the choir is a most beautiful chapel, with a rich roof of carved -stone, built by Vaughan, in the time of King Henry VIII., as a kind of -presbytery, between the choir and Lady Chapel. In the last, whose roof, -as well as those of the aisles of the choir and transepts, have been down -ever since the civil war, are monuments of three bishops, and in the -nave, &c. four or five more. In the north wall of the choir is the -shrine of St. David; a kind of altar tomb, with a canopy of four pointed -arches, and in front four quatrefoil holes, into which the votaries put -their offerings, which were taken out by the monks at two iron doors -behind. In the choir are also the monuments of Owen Tudor, second -husband of Queen Catharine, Rhys ap Tudor, {85a} Bishops Jorwerth and -Anselm, in the thirteenth century, and Edmund, Earl of Richmond, father -of King Henry VII. This last monument is said to have prevented King -Henry VIII. from removing the see to Caermarthen. Giraldus Cambrensis, -who was archdeacon of Brecon, canon of Hereford, and rector of -Chesterton, Oxford, was buried here in 1213. {85b} On the north side of -the church are some walls of St. Mary’s College, founded by Bishop -Houghton, and John of Gaunt, in 1365, valued at one hundred and six -pounds per annum. {85c} - -It is much to be regretted, that so little regard has been paid to the -internal appearance of this noble pile; the whole of it has lately been -white-washed, which gives it too much the air of a modern building: the -external part, I am sorry to add, has been equally neglected; and the -chapels and monuments exposed to the wanton mischief of boys and idle -people. The stone, likewise, with which it is built, is of so soft a -substance, that it even moulders with the touch of the finger; but -possibly it may, by being exposed to the air, like the Bath stone, become -more solid; and, when by time it shall have acquired a darker hue, may -then better correspond with the original building. - -The Bishop’s Palace now stands a monument of desolation; and as we walked -over the loose fragments of stone, which are scattered through the -immense area of the fabric, the images of former times rose to -reflection,—when the spacious hall stood proudly in its original -splendor; when the long aisles of the chapel were only responsive to the -solemn, slow-breathed chant. In this palace is a very long room, -purposely erected for the reception of King John: at the extremity of it -is a circular window, of very elegant and curious workmanship. - -According to Le Neve, Dubritius, Archbishop of Caerleon, is called by -this title, as Archbishop of Wales, at the first establishment of the -Christian religion in the British islands. Godwin fixes no time of his -coming in, but only says, that he, waxing old, resigned his see to David, -a disciple of his; that he died, and was buried in the Isle of Bardsee, -Nov. 14, 522. - -David removed the see, as before stated, from Caerleon to Menevia; and, -by the time Godwin allows him to sit, viz. sixty-five years, and to die -in 642, we may suppose he came in in 577. It is said he lived to a great -age, viz. 146 years; and dying in 642, as is aforesaid, was buried in the -cathedral which himself had caused to be built; and his successors shewed -so great a respect to his memory, as to call the see by his name, which -it still retains, they for a long time afterwards styling themselves -Archbishops of St. David’s; of these, (including David), there were -twenty-five, with Sampson, who, by reason of a contagious sickness in his -diocese, retiring into Bretagne, and taking his pall with him, his -successors, either for want of that, or by some other occasion, lost -their title of Archbishop; but yet for several years they held the -archiepiscopal power of consecrating bishops, which was exercised under -twenty-two of them, down to Bishop Bernard, who was consecrated in 1115. -He, by command of King Henry I., resigned this power to the see of -Canterbury. From this period, down to the time of Bishop Vaughan, it had -many benefactors; amongst whom, as most prominent, stand the names of -Peter de Leia, Bishops Gervase, Beck, Martin, Gower, and Vaughan. - -“During this interval,” says Mr. Rees, “St. David’s acquired the highest -celebrity; and the shrine of the founder was resorted to by the greatest -monarchs of the age. In the list of these royal visitors, are to be -included the names of William the Conqueror, who made his pilgrimage in -1079; King Henry the Second, who honoured Bishop David Fitzgerald with -his company in 1171; and King Edward the First, and Eleanor his queen, -who made their pilgrimage in 1284, when Bishop Beck held the see. The -pilgrims of inferior rank who resorted here were innumerable, and their -offerings served greatly to enrich the ecclesiastics, who spared no pains -to enhance the merit of the penance, by which the poor votaries thus -soothed their consciences, and emptied their pockets.” {87} - -Giraldus gives us a true description of the country round St. David’s, -representing it as “a stony, barren, unimprovable territory, undecked -with woods, undivided by rivers, unadorned with meadows, exposed only to -wind and storm.” Such, indeed, is the state and situation of St. -David’s; and, the environs having no hedges to divide the property of the -farmers, the sheep, and even the geese, are all tethered together. - -In this now dilapidated city was born Asserius, Bishop of Sherbourne, who -wrote a life of King Alfred, and is supposed to have been instrumental in -inducing that Prince to found the University of Oxford. - -The walk to St. David’s Head, though barren, represents a view striking -and awful; sublimity gives place to elegance: yet what is it to view?—a -boundless waste of ocean;—not a glimpse of smiling nature,—not a patch of -vegetation, to relieve the aching sight, or vary the objects of -admiration. The rocks on this shore are shaken into every possible shape -of horror; and, in many parts, resemble the convulsions of an earthquake, -splintered, shivered, and amassed. On these rocks stood the famous -rocking stone, or _Y mean sigl_; which, “though twenty yoke of oxen could -not move it, might be shaken with the slightest touch.” We understood it -was thrown off its balance, by order of the farmer, to prevent the -curious from trampling on his grounds. “A mile strait west from St. -David’s, betwixt Portclais and Porthmaur,” {88} is the shell of Capel -Stinen, St. Stinan’s or St. Justinian’s chapel. - -From this spot is an extensive view of Whitsand Bay, called by the Welsh -_Porth Maur_, or the Great Bay; in which stand the six rocks, called the -Bishop and his Clerks. Half a league from hence is - - - -RAMSEY ISLE, - - -half a mile long, and three quarters broad, and divided into two -considerable farms. The whole island is well stocked with rabbits; and, -during the spring, the Razorbill, Puffin, and Harry birds, resort here in -flocks. It has undergone many changes from the continual wearing of the -waves. There is a tradition, that the embarkation for Ireland anciently -took place at Ramsey; but sailors doubt the truth of this circumstance, -from the circumstances of the tides. Our walk from St. David’s to - - - -FISHGUARD - - -afforded us little room for observation; the eye, however, kept in view a -wide range of the unbounded ocean; till, dim with exertion, it by degrees -reposed on the dark lowering rocks, which, disregarding the angry roar of -the waves, seemed to project their broad sides, to augment the idle -tumult. Quitting the turnpike road, in search of the place where the -French effected their landing, in the year 1797, we passed a neat house, -called Caergwent, belonging to Mrs. Harris. The kind attentions of a -farmer, in the neighbourhood of this memorable spot, claim our warmest -acknowledgments. Having finished a most comfortable meal at Mr. -Mortimer’s house (which, during the confusion, was considered the -head-quarters of the French, commanded by General Tate), he explained all -the minutiæ respecting this circumstance; and very obligingly pointed out -the situation of their camp, and related many entertaining and -interesting anecdotes. Deeply impressed with gratitude towards Mr. M. -for his civilities, we soon arrived at Goodric sands. This spot was very -judiciously selected by Lord Cawdor, as a proper place for the French to -lay down their arms; for, had they resisted, a cannonade of grape-shot, -from a neighbouring fortress, would have instantly played upon them. -Fishguard stands on a steep rock, with a convenient harbour, formed by -the river Gwain; though its situation and bay are interesting, it is by -no means a desirable place to remain long at. - -Several druidical monuments {90} engaged our attention, as we drew near - - - -NEWPORT, - - -called by Giraldus, Llanhever, or the Town on the river Nevern. The -fragments of the castle are too insignificant to invite the curiosity of -the passing traveller: it was demolished by Llewllyn, Prince of South -Wales, when possessed by the Flemings. - -The country beyond Newport presented a more pleasing countenance: wood, -water, hill, and vale, all unite, even to induce the plodding citizen to -pause, and wish to spend the evening of his days in the vicinity of its -enchantment. In this interesting situation, we found the village of -Velindre:—we here particularly observed the slaty quality of the hills, -and could not avoid condemning the folly of the inhabitants of Velindre -in building their cottages of mud, and sparingly covering them with -straw, when nature herself seemed to place comforts, if not luxuries, -before their view. But, perhaps, these reproaches were ill-grounded; for -thus veiled in obscurity, they were happy, as they knew not enough of the -world seriously to regret the want of these conveniences: their -situation, indeed, seemed to verify the philosophical sentiment of Gray: - - “Since ignorance is bliss, - ’Tis folly to be wise.” - -For though they suffer the extremes of filth and penury, yet they enjoy -the two inestimable blessings, health and felicity. The broken towers of - - - -KILGERRAN CASTLE - - -soon attracted our notice. The relics of this ruin stand on a point of -rock, impending over the river Tyvi, whose beauty time had only impaired -to heighten its grandeur. Two imperfect circular towers, and the -fragments of a wall, now only remain. - -The river Tyvi, I imagine, abounds with fish, as we observed at every -door in the village of Kilgerran a coracle. {91} The construction of -this little water conveyance is remarkably simple, and intended solely -for the use of fishing: a thick skin, or coarse pitched canvas, is -stretched over wicker-work. This singular fishing-boat conveys only one -man, who manages it with the greatest adroitness imaginable; the right -hand being employed in using the paddle, the left in conducting the net, -and the teeth in holding the line. Two coracles generally co-operate, to -assist each other in fishing: they usually measure about five feet long, -and four broad, and are rounded at the corners; and, after the labours of -the day, are conveyed on their backs to the little cots of the fishermen, -being looked upon as a necessary appendage to the cottage door. - -Description can scarcely suggest the full magnificence and beauty of the -saunter from hence to Cardigan: the valley, about two miles in extent, -seemed to possess all that nature inherits; sloping hills, two hundred -feet high, covered with wood, from the water’s edge to their highest -summit, and at the most acceptable distances, and truly happy situations, -interrupted by a bold, naked, and projecting rock; whilst the broad and -translucid stream of the Tyvi reflects, as in a mirror, the blackness of -the impending shades. The retrospect commands the romantic ruins of -Kilgerran castle, whose mutilated walls close this delicious landscape. -The whole valley bears a strong resemblance to the situation of the -celebrated Piercefield. As this spot is entirely lost by keeping the -turnpike road, it is advisable for travellers in general, to hire a boat -from Cardigan to Kilgerran: this, our humble, and less encumbered mode of -travelling rendered unnecessary. - -Near Kilgerran are Castle Maelgyn, and Pentre, the seat of Dr. Davies; -both handsome modern mansions, surrounded by pleasing gardens and -plantations. - -At Lechryd, not far from Kilgerran, extensive tin-works are carried on by -Sir Benjamin Hamet. Having already examined works of this nature at -Neath, we preferred the romantic vale of Kilgerran; as to accomplish both -would have occupied too much time. We entered the town of - - - -CARDIGAN, - - -over a handsome stone bridge, built over the Tyvi, which is here of -considerable width. In front of this stands, on a steep eminence, the -castle, consisting chiefly of its outer walls, which prove it to have -been once a considerable building. This place, considered the principal -town of the county, is called by the Britons Aberteivi; which name it -receives from standing near the mouth of the river Tyvi. It was -fortified, together with the castle, by Gilbert, son of Richard Clare, -and demolished by Rhees ap Gryffith. - -Cardigan had once a strong castle; but it was destroyed in the civil -wars, and an elegant mansion erected on its site by Mr. Bowen: the -cellars of which were anciently the dungeons of the keep. At the end of -the bridge is a chapel, said to be erected on the spot, where Giraldus -preached the Crusade. - -The town is large and regular; its chief trade consisting in lead, -exported to Ireland. It sends one member to Parliament, and gives the -title of Earl to the family of Brudenell. The Church is large, and well -built, with a handsome tower. The new gaol, finished in the year 1797, -is conveniently situated, and appears to be a well-planned building. One -mile from Cardigan is - - - -ST. DOGMAEL’S ABBEY, - - -called, by Leland, {94} a “Priory of Bonhommes.” The Monasticon places -this house amongst the Benedictines; but it was that strict and reformed -sort of Benedictines, called the Order of Tiron, founded by Martin of -Tours, who conquered the country of Cemmeis, about the time of King -William the Conqueror. Part of the ruins is now converted into a chapel, -for the convenience of the vicinity. St. Dogmael’s is now a mere fishing -village. - -At the second mile-stone, in our road from Cardigan to the village of - - - -LLANARTH, - - -we halted a short time, to take a retrospect of the country we had -passed. From this spot, the town and castle of Cardigan, standing on an -eminence, in the centre of a broad valley, and encircled with hills, -beautifully introduced themselves to our view. From hence to - - - -ABERAERON, - - -grand sea prospects continued to enliven our route;—whilst the faint and -still fainter hues of the coast of Ireland appeared just visibly skirting -the distant horizon. Aberaeron is situated in a vale, near the conflux -of the river Aeron with the sea: from whence it receives its name; Aber -signifying the mouth of any thing. - -The entrenchment, mentioned by Sael, in his Collection of Tours, about a -mile from Aberaeron, is now almost washed away by daily encroachments of -the sea. We lamented that the druidical sepulchral monuments, mentioned -by the same author, were inadvertently passed unnoticed by us. - -In this day’s journey we still continued to indulge the sublime emotions, -which an unconfined view of the ocean always inspires; a serene day, with -partial gleams of sunshine, gave magical effects to the scenery; and the -sea was enlivened with many a vessel, passing each other in various -directions, and contributing to render the terrific ocean beautiful. -Before us, the towering mountains of Merionethshire glittered in all -those colours of beauty, which constitute the sublime; and we appeared -only to climb one hill to view others still rising in endless -perspective: over the whole was diffused the rich glow of evening; and -the distant mountains were variegated by the parting tinge of lingering -day. A neat Church, backed by romantic hills, animated the village of -Llanrysted. Three miles from - - - -ABERYSTWITH, - - -we paused at Llanryan bridge, to admire the rich banks rising on each -side of the river Ystwith, over which this bridge is thrown; it is built -in the style of the celebrated Pont-y-prid, in the vale of -Glamorganshire. We entered the town of Aberystwith over a temporary -wooden bridge. {95} In the year 1796, a stone bridge experienced the -same fate with many others in Wales, occasioned by a sudden thaw: Mr. -Edwards, from Dolgelly, has lately erected another, by contract, -consisting of six arches. - -Aberystwith, partaking much of the dirt of seaports in general, is -situated at the termination of the vale of Rhyddol, in the bay of -Cardigan, and open to St. George’s Channel. The environs are stony and -rugged; the coast affords indifferent bathing, being much exposed; and -the shore rough and unpleasant. In fine, it is, in almost all respects, -the reverse of Tenby, except it has the advantage in the number of -houses, and, consequently, more company. At the extremity of the town, -upon an eminence, stand the ruins of an ancient castle, of which little -now remains but a solitary tower, overlooking a wide expanse of sea. It -was rendered famous, by being, at one time, the residence of the great -Cadwalader, and in all the Welsh wars was considered as a fortress of -great strength: it was built by Gilbert Strongbow, in the year 1107, and -rebuilt by King Edward I. in 1277, a few years before his complete -conquest of Wales. The ruin of the castle now affords a pleasant walk. - -At this castle Edmund Goodere, Esq. farmer of the mines royal in the -county of Cardigan, had letters patent, 13th of Charles I., to erect a -mint for coinage of such silver as was raised from the said mines royal -in Wales; but the castle and houses for the mint were destroyed by the -civil war. On the 6th of March, 1646, on his petition to this effect, -the smelting house, near the refining mills, was appropriated by -Parliament to this purpose, till the castle should be refitted. - -But what formerly rendered this town more considerable, were the rich -lead mines in its vicinity. These mines are said to have yielded near a -hundred ounces of silver from a ton of lead, and to have produced a -profit of two thousand pounds a month. Sir Hugh Middleton here made the -vast fortune, which he afterwards expended on the New River, constructed -for the purpose of supplying the northern side of London with water. But -Thomas Bushell raised these mines to their greatest height: an indenture -was granted to him by King Charles I. for the coining of silver pieces, -to be stamped with ostrich feathers on both sides, for the benefit of -paying his workmen. This gentleman was afterwards appointed governor of -Lundy Isle. The most considerable lead mine was that of -Bwlch-yr-Eskir-his, discovered in the year 1690. The ore was here so -near the surface, that the moss and grass in some places scarcely covered -it. {97} - -Close to the site of the old castle, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley, in -Herefordshire, has erected a fantastic house in the castellated form, -intended merely as a summer residence. - -Aberystwith has of late years been in all respects greatly improved; for -being the principal place of summer resort for bathing and pleasure from -North Wales and the adjacent English counties, every inducement has been -held forth that could attract company from its new competitors: the roads -are now good, and the inns and accommodations excellent. The population -consists of 2,397 persons. - -The bathing is well conducted, and although the beach, as at most of our -watering places, is formed of pebbles, still there are generally good -sands to bathe on at all hours of the tide. During the season, -assemblies are held here as at Brighton, Ramsgate, and other English -sea-bathing places. Formerly, the town-hall likewise served as a -theatre, but another building has now been erected for that purpose. -Notwithstanding Aberystwith is prevented by the sand bar at the entrance -from receiving vessels of large tonnage, still its trade is considerable -and increasing, carried on by vessels from 250 tons burthen down to 18. - -Mr. Meyrick’s remarks with respect to this port are perfectly correct. -“Were two piers made on those ridges of the rock called the Wey, which -afford the strongest foundations, the harbour would be handsome, -capacious, and convenient. Besides, by cutting a passage across the road -to the north of the town, and carrying it along the marsh into the sea, -for the Rhyddol, just at the angle it makes when it takes a south-west -course, an excellent back-water would be at hand, and would clear away -any bar that might be formed at the mouth of the harbour, and keep it -free from mud.” - -It has two markets in the week; Monday for butter, &c., and Saturday for -meat, besides which, it is generally well supplied with fish, with which -it furnishes the interior of the country as far as Shrewsbury and -Worcester. The views from the castle and cliffs, not only over Cardigan -Bay, but over the cloud-capped summits of Cader Idris and Snowdon, are -extensive and sublime. - -We determined to pursue the banks of the meandering Rhyddol, in -preference to the turnpike road, in our way to Havod. - -This valley comprehends every thing that constitutes the beautiful; it is -inclosed by high mountains on each side, vegetating to their summits; -indeed, all the tints of verdure and diversity of foliage here introduce -themselves in one view; the Rhyddol struggling with the huge masses of -rock,—its never-ceasing, tumultuous motion,—its sparkling foam;—in fine, -every thing that can be imagined, by the most enthusiastic admirer of -nature, is blended in this short excursion:— - - —“_is not this vale_ - More free from peril than the envious courts? - Here feel we but the penalty of Adam, - The season’s difference, as the icy fang - And churlish chiding of the winter’s wind.” - - SHAKSPEARE. - -“The vale of Rhyddol,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is a very grand and extensive -scene, continuing not less than ten miles, among rocks, hanging woods, -and varied ground, which, in some parts, become mountainous: while the -river is every where a beautiful object; and twice or three times, in its -passage through the vale, is interrupted in its course, and formed into a -cascade. This is a circumstance in a _vale_, I think, rather uncommon. -In a contracted _valley_ it is frequent: but _an extended vale_ is seldom -so interrupted as not to give way to the river on one side or the other.” - -To the inquisitive pedestrian (for this vale is inaccessible for -carriages), the old Church of Llanbadem Vawr, which signifies the Church -of Great Paternus, a native of Bretagne, is particularly interesting; -who, as the writer of his life expresses it, “by feeding governed, and by -governing fed the Church of Cretica.” To his memory, this Church, and -formerly an episcopal see was founded; but the bishopric, as Roger -Hovedon writes, “early declined, because the parishioners slew their -pastor.” {100} As we drew near the - - - -DEVIL’S BRIDGE, - - -a long chain of mountains excited our admiration, encircled half way down -with a thick mist, similar in appearance to a girdle: this circumstance -seems to justify the bold imagery and beautiful description of a mountain -given by the Poet: - - “As some tall cliff that lifts its awful form, - Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the storm; - Though round its breast the rolling clouds are spread, - Eternal sunshine settles on its head.” - - GOLDSMITH. - -The comfortable inn, situated near this romantic spot, stands in front of -the River Rhyddol, and commanding the most picturesque view fancy can -paint, was built by the respectable and truly hospitable owner of Havod. - -This celebrated Bridge, so much the object of curiosity and admiration, -is so completely environed with trees, that many travellers, not intent -upon deep investigation, or in pursuit of Nature’s landscapes, may pass -over it without the least suspicion of the dreadful aperture, or the -ancient structure that conveys them over the gulf. On the eastern side -we descended a steep and treacherous bank, consisting of slate rock or -laminac, I should imagine, near an hundred feet: this is the computed -measurement; but the eye, confused by the awfulness of the scene, loses -its faculty of judging. From this spot, the vast chine, or chasm over -which the bridge is thrown, is seen to great advantage. The whole of -this fissure was probably occasioned by some convulsion of Nature, as -each indenture seems to correspond with the opposite protuberance. Under -the bridge, the river Mynach in its confined course, meeting with -obstructions of massy rock, and fragments of prodigious size, rushes -through the chasm with irresistible violence. - -This bridge is called in Welsh Pont-ar Fynach, or Mynach Bridge; it -consists of two arches, one thrown over the other. The foundation of the -under one is of great antiquity, and vulgarly attributed to the invention -of the Devil; it is supposed to have been erected as far back as the year -1087, in the reign of King William II., by the Monks of Strata Florida -Abbey, the ruins of which are still visible, about ten miles from hence. -Gerald mentions his passing over it, when he accompanied Baldwin, -Archbishop of Canterbury, at the time of the Crusades, in the year 1188, -and in the reign of King Richard I. The original arch being suspected to -be in a ruinous condition, the present bridge was built over it, at the -expense of the county, in the year 1753. The width of the chasm is -estimated at about thirty feet. - -Our Cicerone first conducted us to a fall on the river Rhyddol, -unobserved in Walker’s Description of the Devil’s Bridge, and unnoticed -by Warner. The character of this fall is remarkably singular: a huge -fragment of rock, projecting over the river for a considerable way, -precipitates the water in a singular and almost inexpressible direction: -the rocks are occasionally variegated by the dark foliage of underwood, -and sometimes barren, rugged, and impending. - -Description cannot suggest the full magnificence of the prospect which -spread before us, on our arrival at the grand Fall of the Mynach; for -though it may paint the grandeur of the elegance of outline, yet it -cannot equal the archetypes of Nature, or draw the minute features, that -reward the actual observer at every new choice of his position: reviewing -this thundering cataract, in the leisure of recollection, these nervous -lines of Thomson seem to describe much of the scene: - - “Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood - Rolls fair and placid, where collected all - In one impetuous torrent, down the steep - It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round. - At first an azure sheet, it rushes broad; - Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls, - And from the loud resounding rocks below - Dash’d in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft - A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower. - Nor can the tortured wave here find repose: - But raging still amid the shaggy rocks, - Now flashes o’er the scatter’d fragments, now - Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts; - And falling fast from gradual slope to slope, - With wild infracted course and lessen’d roar, - It gains a safer bed, and steals at last - Along the mazes of the quiet vale.” - -The following table, taken from Walker’s Description of the Devil’s -Bridge, gives the exact height from the top of the bridge to the water -underneath; and the different falls from thence till the Mynach delivers -itself into the Rhyddol below. - - - -FALLS, &c. - - Feet -From the bridge to the water 114 - First fall 18 - Second ditto 60 - Third ditto 20 - Grand cataract 110 -From the bridge to the Rhyddol 322 - -The rocks on each side of the fall rise perpendicularly to the height of -eight hundred feet, and are finely clothed with the richest vegetation to -the loftiest summit. - -Near the basin of the first fall from the bridge we entered a dark -cavern, formerly inhabited by a set of robbers, two brothers and a -sister, called Plant Mat, or Plant Fat, signifying Matthew’s Children. -Tradition reports, that they committed various depredations in the -neighbourhood, and lived concealed in this “specus horrendum” for many -years, from the keen research of “day’s garish eye.” The entrance just -admits sufficient light to make “darkness visible.” - -With regret we left this romantic spot; where, if retirement ever had -“local habitation,” this was her “place of dearest residence.” “One -excursion,” says Mr. Cumberland, “to this place, will not suffice common -observers; nor indeed many, to the lovers of the grand sports of Nature.” -“The Mynach” (in another place he describes,) “coming down from beneath -the Devil’s Bridge, has no equal for height or beauty that I know of; -for, although a streamlet to the famous fall of Narni in Italy, yet it -rivals it in height, and surpasses it in elegance. - -“After passing deep below the bridge, as through a narrow firth, with -noises loud and ruinous, into a confined chasm, the fleet waters pour -headlong and impetuous, and leaping from rock to rock, with fury -literally lash the mountain’s sides; sometimes almost imbowered among -deep groves, and flashing at last into a fanlike form, the fall rattling -among the loose stones of the Devil’s Hole—where, to all appearance, it -shoots into a gulf beneath, and silently steals away: for so much is -carried off in spray, during the incessant repercussions it experiences, -in this long tortuous shoot, that in all probability, not half the water -arrives at the bottom of its found and sullen grave.” - -Four miles from hence, on the Llandiloe’s road, is situated - - - -HAVOD or HAFOD, - - -the celebrated seat of the late Mr. Johnes. The former part of the road -is barren and uninteresting; but, on our first entrance into the grounds, -all our past complaints were lost in expressions of admiration. “A -Philosopher has said,” says a modern Tourist, “that the man, who makes -two blades of grass grow, where only one grew before, is greater than the -greatest hero. If this be true, Mr. Johnes must rank before all the -conquerors of the world, as he has made the barren wilderness around him -to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods, luxuriant -corn-fields, and pastures.” From October 1795, to April 1801, Mr. Johnes -planted more than 2,065,000 trees; besides a great number of acres, that -he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plantations have been -extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two hundred -thousand trees being planted every year. The Mansion is a very elegant -piece of architecture, built of Portland stone, and the plan entirely -novel, being a mixture of the Moorish and Gothic, with turrets and -painted windows. The whole of it indeed does great credit to the -architect, Mr. Baldwyn of Bath. It is situated near the banks of the -river Ystwith, and beautifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with -oak. The interior of the house corresponds in elegance with the -exterior. - -From the hall we were conducted through a suite of elegant apartments, -very judiciously fitted up with paintings, statues, and antiques; but the -Library more particularly engaged our notice, containing a choice and -valuable collection of books: this octagonal room is built in the form of -a dome with a gallery round it, supported by a colonnade of variegated -marble pillars of the ancient Doric order, with a circular window at top -for the admission of light. We entered through a handsome door, inlaid -with a large reflecting mirror: immediately opposite is another door of -transparent plate-glass, leading to the conservatory, three hundred feet -in length, and containing a number of curious and rare exotics, with a -walk down the centre of the building. In fine, the effect of the _tout -ensemble_ can better be imagined than described. - -Amongst the other things worthy of admiration, a handsome statue, in the -library, of Thetis dipping Achilles in the River Styx, more particularly -detains attention. We next passed through the Billiard-room, and were -conducted to the top of the staircase, to admire two elegant paintings, -the subjects taken from Captain Cook’s Voyages: the painter is unknown. -Many of the rooms are beautifully furnished with rich Gobelin tapestry. - -To give my readers a just conception of the beauties of Havod, I shall -beg leave to borrow the elegant description of it, drawn by the pen of -Mr. Cumberland. - - “Havod is a place in itself so pre-eminently beautiful, that it - highly merits a particular description. It stands surrounded with so - many noble scenes, diversified with elegance, as well as with - grandeur; the country on the approach to it is so very wild and - uncommon, and the place itself is now so embellished by art, that it - will be difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that can be put in - competition with it, considered either as the object of the painter’s - eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable residence for those who, - admirers of the beautiful wildness of Nature, love also to inhale the - pure air of aspiring mountains, and enjoy that _santo pacé_, as the - Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made - social by a family circle. - - “From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding vale; the - undulating forms of whose ascending, shaggy sides, are richly clothed - with various foliage, broken with silver waterfalls, and crowned with - climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds. - - “Neither are the luxuries of life absent; for on the margin of the - Ystwith, where it flows broadest through this delicious vale, we see - hot-houses and a conservatory: beneath the rocks a bath; amid the - recesses of the woods a flower garden; and, within the building, - whose decorations, though rich, are pure and simple, we find a mass - of rare and valuable literature, whose pages here seem doubly - precious, where meditation finds scope to range unmolested. - - “In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the scenery of this - place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any taste, that the - impression on mine was increased, after an interval of ten years from - the first visit, employed chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the - Apennines, the Sabine Hills, and the Tyrollese; along the shores of - the Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; - where, though in search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so - fine—never so many pictures concentred in one spot; so that, warned - by the renewal of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged - to attempt a description of the hitherto almost virgin haunts of - these obscure mountains. - - “Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, at intervals, - with fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and - wonderfully picturesque beauty. Downton Castle has a delicious woody - vale, most tastefully managed; Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of - the Conway savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great - Pistill Rhayader is horribly wild; Rhayader Wennol, gay, and - gloriously irregular,—each of which merits a studied description. - - “But, at Havod, and its neighbourhood, I find the effects of all in - one circle; united with this peculiarity, that the deep dingles, and - mighty woody slopes, which, from a different source, conduct the - Rhyddol’s never-failing waters from Plynlimmon, and the Fynache, are - of an unique character, as mountainous forests, accompanying gigantic - size with graceful forms; and taken altogether, I see ‘the sweetest - interchange of hill and valley, rivers, woods and plains, and falls, - with forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’ insomuch, that it - requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with Milton, - - ‘All things that be send up from earth’s great altar - Silent praise!’ - - “There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through ways - artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept clean, and - composed of materials found on the spot; which is chiefly a coarse - stone, of a greyish cast, friable in many places, and like slate, but - oftener consisting of immense masses, that cost the miner, in making - some parts of these walks, excessive labour; for there are places, - where it was necessary to perforate the rock many yards, in order to - pass a promontory, that, jutting across the way, denied further - access; and to go round which, you must have taken a great tour, and - made a fatiguing descent. As it is, the walks are so conducted, that - few are steep; the transitions easy, the returns commodious, and the - branches distinct. Neither are they too many, for much is left for - future projectors; and if a man be stout enough to range the - underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all trodden paths, he - may, almost every where, stroll from the studied line, till he be - glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well-known way. - - “Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best - points of view by the general routine; for all that is here done, has - been to remove obstructions, reduce the materials, and conceal the - art; and we are no where presented with attempts to force the untamed - streams, or indeed to invent any thing where nature, the great - mistress, has left all art behind.” - -Such was the just description of Havod; but this magnificent mansion, -with the costly furniture, plate, pictures, and above all to be -regretted, the splendid library of scarce and valuable books, was -consumed by fire, during the absence of the owner, on the 13th of March, -1807. - -All that the most indefatigable industry could accomplish was done by Mr. -Johnes, to replace the losses he had sustained; but the Welsh -manuscripts, and many other valuable works and specimens of art here -destroyed, no labour or money could restore. The actual pecuniary loss -suffered by Mr. Johnes, over and above the 20,000_l._ he was insured, -amounted to between 50 and 60,000_l._; but, like the destruction of the -labours of Lord Mansfield and Dr. Priestley, no estimate can be put on -the loss the proprietor and the world experienced, in thus rendering -abortive forty years of study, research, and expenditure on literary -valuables. Prior to the decease of Mr. Johnes, who did not long survive -his loss, the exterior of the building was nearly restored to its former -appearance; but the interior arrangement was considerably altered. He -likewise again established a most sumptuous collection of books, &c. part -of which, the Pesaro library, was on its way from Italy, having been -purchased by Mr. Johnes prior to the conflagration: it comprises many -very valuable books in the Spanish, French, and particularly the Italian -language, rare editions of the classics, and almost all the productions -of the Aldini press.—A minute description of the interior of Havod, prior -to the fire, is given by Mr. Malkin, which is now particularly -interesting. Unfortunately no catalogue of the books and manuscripts was -ever taken, Mr. Johnes not having completed his collection. - - - -THE GENIUS OF HAVOD. - - - Formal slaves of art, avaunt! - This is Nature’s secret haunt: - The Genius of the landscape, I - Guard it, with a jealous eye— - Guard it, that no footstep rude - Upon her privacy intrude. - Here, with mystic maze, her throne - Is girt, accessible to none: - But to the highly-honour’d few - To whom I deign to lend my clue; - And chief to him, who in this grove, - Devotes his life to share her love: - From whom she seeks no charms to hide, - For whom she throws her veil aside, - Instructing him to spread abroad - Scenes for Salvator—or for Claude. - Far, oh far hence, let Brown and Eames - Zig-zag their walks, and torture streams! - But let them not my dells profane, - Or violate my Naiad train: - Nor let their arrogance invade - My meanest Dryad’s secret shade, - And with fantastic knots disgrace - The native honours of the place— - Making the vet’ran oak give way, - Some spruce exotic to display: - Their petty labours he defy’d, - Who Taste and Nature would divide! - - ANON. - -We now for many miles passed a barren, dreary country, completely -encircled with hills; and we only climbed one to observe still others -rising in the distant perspective: not even a house or tree appeared to -interrupt the awfulness of the mountains, which, after the copious fall -of rain in the night, teemed with innumerable cataracts. According to -our directions, we enquired at the foot of Plinlimmon for Rhees Morgan, -as a proper man to be our conductor over the heights of the “fruitful -father of rivers.” This man being absent, the whole family appeared -thunderstruck at our appearance, and ran with all haste imaginable into -their miserable cot. One apartment served for the inhabitants of every -description, with only one small hole to admit the light; the entrance -unprotected by a door, but with a blanket as a substitute, was exposed to -the pitiless blast of the winter’s storm. - - “Ah! little think the gay licentious proud - Whom pleasure, power, and affluence surround: - They, who their thoughtless hours in giddy mirth - And wanton, often cruel, riot waste; - Ah! little think they while they dance along, - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - . . . . how many drink the cup - Of baleful grief, or eat the bitter bread - Of misery. Sore pierced by wintry winds, - How many shrink into the sordid hut - Of cheerless poverty.” - - THOMSON. - -With some difficulty we prevailed on the female part of the family to -give us proper directions to the source of the meandering Wye, {111} and -rapid Severn. The latter they only understood by the name of Halfren, -its original British name; it is likewise called in Latin, Sabrina. From -the top of Plinlimmon we for the first time discovered the shaggy summit -of Cader Idris, and the spiral head of Snowdon. “With respect to -Plinlimmon mountain,” says Mr. Malkin, “it is inferior only to Snowdon -and Cadir Idris; if to the latter, in point of size and height. It takes -its name from five beacons; many of which, if not all, still remain, and -are seen at some distance. We may indeed compare Plinlimmon with those -formidable personages of poetical creation, who walk with their feet upon -the earth, and their heads in the region of the heavens.” There is -nothing particularly engaging in the character of this mountain, except -in its giving rise to no less than six or eight rivers, and, on this -account, has frequently been celebrated by the Poet. Though its summit -commands a circle of many miles diameter, yet the prospect by no means -answered our expectations. We descended into a swampy bottom, which -afforded us unpleasant walking for two or three miles, when a most -delightful and well-cultivated valley unexpectedly enlivened our spirits. -The sun was making - - . . . . . . . “a golden set, - And by the bright track of his fiery car - Gave signal of a goodly day to morrow,” - -just as we entered this interesting vale; the hay-makers, in the coolness -of the evening, were returning to their homes, - - “Each by the lass he loved.” - -In short, the whole valley breathed delicious fragrance: add to this, -innumerable cataracts rushed from the mountain’s summits, occasioned by -the last copious rains. - -From hence a good turnpike road soon conducted us to the romantic town of - - - -MACHYNLLETH, - - -considered as the centre of the woollen manufactory in this part of the -country, principally of the strong cloth, or high country cloth. {112} -The situation of Machynlleth (or as it is pronounced by the Welsh, -Mahunthleth), is extremely romantic; stupendous mountains forming a -natural rampart round the town. This town is supposed to have been the -Maglona of the Romans, and where, in the name of Honorius, a Lieutenant -was stationed to awe the mountaineers. It is 206 miles from London, and -33 from Montgomery: its population, 1,595 persons. We here visited the -neglected mansion where Owen Glyndour assembled the states of the -principality, in the year 1402, and accepted from their hands the crown -of Wales. Part of the house is now converted into a butcher’s shop:— - - “Sic transit gloria mundi.” - -In fine, the only evident remains of its ever having been celebrated in -the annals of history, is a spacious door-way. The town itself, in many -parts, bears the appearance of antiquity: the streets are considerably -wider than Welsh towns in general, and the market-place is well-built: -tanning and the manufacture of flannels and webs constitute the principal -employment of the inhabitants. - -As we entered Machynlleth, being the first town in North Wales, we were -in a manner instinctively induced to reflect on the various incidents -that had befallen us from our first sallying forth on our pedestrian -excursion. We took a retrospect of all our little troubles with equally -as much delight as the sailor, who, by the blessing of Providence, has -escaped the most imminent dangers: all our past imaginary dangers (for -imaginary evils are frequently worse than real ones) were overbalanced -with reflections on the many hours of pleasure that were flown unheeded -by: these reflections brought to my recollection some interesting lines -in Bowles’s sonnets, which I involuntarily exclaimed aloud: - - “Fair scenes, ye lend a pleasure long unknown - To him who passes weary on his way; - The farewell tear which now he turns to pay - Shall thank you, and whene’er of pleasures flown - His heart some long-lost image would renew, - Delightful haunts! he will remember you.” - -At the village of Kevn Kaer are the remains of an oval camp, a wall, and -ditch: evidently Roman, from the coins and other antiquities found there. - -The sublimity of the walk to Talylyn literally “beggars description.” -Having crossed a bridge of eight arches, thrown over the river Dovey, -high mountains closed us on every side, shook into every possible form of -horror; huge masses of rock hung over our path, and it seemed necessary -to remember their firm basis, to soften the terror they inspired; whilst -other mis-shapen fragments lay scattered at the side of the road. The -transparent Dyflas, whose clear surface reflected the tremulous picture -in all its colours, forms one continued cataract for five or six miles, -overflowing with the innumerable tributary torrents which hurry -themselves down from the highest summit of the surrounding rocks; whilst, -to give effect to the whole prospect, the shaggy head of Cader Idris -towers, the majestic sentinel of the scene, whose “cloud capt” summit the -eye aches in surveying. To our great disappointment, the weather -prevented our ascending this celebrated mountain giant. Cader Idris is -esteemed, in height, the second mountain in all Wales, rising two -thousand eight hundred and fifty feet above the green of Dolgelly. {114} - -If the weather proves favourable to ascend Cader Idris, travellers may be -very comfortably accommodated with beds at - - - -TALYLYN; - - -a small village, situate at the foot of the mountain; and where they will -likewise meet with a conductor, in every respect suited for this Alpine -excursion. Mr. Jones, the landlord of the Blue Lion, used all his -influence to detain us until the weather wore a more favourable aspect; -but we determined to make Barmouth our head quarters. Quitting, -therefore, our polite landlord, we soon arrived at the pool of Three -Grains, which though of inferior size, yet is generally credited to be -unfathomable; it abounds in fish, and derives its name from three immense -stones, or rather fragments of rock, near it, which the common people -confidently assert, and believe the giant Idris took out of his shoes as -he passed this pool. - -Having ascended several hills, a quick descent of three or four miles -soon brought us to - - - -DOLGELLY, - - -surrounded with a “tempestuous sea of mountains,” and watered by the -rapid current of the river Avonvawr, over which is thrown a large and -handsome stone bridge at the entrance of the town. - -This town was known to the Romans, if we may judge from the coins found -at a well in its vicinity, bearing this inscription “IMP. CÆSAR. -TRAJAN.” It contains 537 houses, and 3064 inhabitants: but the church is -little better than a barn, with a covered roof, supported by two rows of -rude oak pales, and a bare earth floor. - -In the neighbourhood of this romantic spot, and indeed in many parts of -Merionethshire, the manufacture of strong cloth has long been carried on. -{116} - -No one can picture to themselves a more delightful situation than that of -Dolgelly:—an inclosed vale, encircled with the craggy and subject -mountains of Cader Idris, forming an amphitheatre,—watered by the Alpine -torrent of the Maw,—and richly clothed with wood. But necessity has no -law; the best inn was pre-occupied, and no comfortable accommodations -could be found; and, though drenched with rain, we were compelled to -quicken our pace to the well-known bathing-place of Barmouth. - -Such, at the present day, is not likely to be the fate of the traveller, -as Dolgelly boasts of three inns, the Lion, the Angel, for travellers -without a carriage, and the new inn, called the Ship. One, two, or more -days will be passed here very pleasantly, either in excursions to Cader -Idris, Dol-y-melynllyn, the waterfalls of the Rhaiadr-du, Rhaiadr y -Mawdach and Pistyll y Cayne; or, under the sanction of Sir R. Hoare, who -says he knows of no place where so many inducements are held out to -excite the traveller to make excursions in its vicinity, he may visit the -vale of the Dee, Caer Gai, an old Roman station, at the end of the lake -of Bala, and Dinas y Mowddu, to enable them to accomplish which, ponies -and a guide are to be procured.—The following is Dr. Mavor’s account of -the Cader Idris Guide, an original Caleb Quotem, and the bill of -introduction he delivered to his employers: - - “Lege, aspice Conductorem, et ride. - - ROBERT EDWARDS, - - second son of the celebrated tanner, William Edwards, ap Griffith, ap - Morgan, ap David, ap Owen, ap Llewellyn, ap Cadwalader; great, great, - great grandson of an illegitimate daughter of an illustrious hero, - (no less famed for his irresistible prowess, when mildly approaching - under the velvet standards of the lovely Venus, than when sternly - advancing with the terrible banners of the bloody Mars) Sir Rice ap - Thomas!!! by Anne, alias Catherine, daughter of Howill ap Jenkin, of - Ynys-y-maesgwyn; who was the thirteenth in descent from Cadwgan, a - lineal descendant of Bleddyn, ap Cynfyn, Prince of Powis. Since his - nativity full two and eighty times hath the sun rolled to his summer - solstice; fifty years was he host of the Hen and Chickens alehouse, - Pen-y-bont, twenty of which he was apparitor to the late right - reverend Father in God, John, Lord Bishop of Bangor, and his - predecessors: by chance, made a glover, by genius, a fly-dresser and - angler. He is now, by the All Divine assistance, conductor to, and - over the most tremendous mountain Cader Idris, to the stupendous - cataracts of Cayne and Mowddach, and to the enchanting cascades of - Dol-y-melynllyn, with all its beautiful romantic scenery; guide - general, and magnificent expounder of all the natural and artificial - curiosities of North Wales; professor of grand and bombastic - lexicographical words; knight of the most anomalous, whimsical, (yet - perhaps happy) order of hare-brained inexplicables.” - - “He is a little slender man, about five feet four inches in height, - and, notwithstanding his advanced age, hopped and skipped about the - room with all the vivacity and agility of a school-boy. The manner - in which he expresses himself is as droll as his appearance. He was - dressed in a blue coat with yellow buttons, a pair of old boots, and - a cocked hat and feather of enormous size.” - -Mr. Pugh, in his Cambria Depicta, gives a portrait of him from the life, -seated on his poney, conducting a party up the mountain, and adds to his -bill the two following lines: - - “_Mark_, _traveller_, what rarely meets thy view, - Thy guide, a giddy _Boy_ of eighty-two.” - -Mr. Warner’s description of the view from the summit of Cader Idris is -just and concise. - - “The afternoon was gloriously fine, and the atmosphere perfectly - clear, so that the vast unbounded prospect lay beneath, unobscured by - cloud, vapour, or any other interruption, to the astonished and - delighted eye; which threw its glance over a varied scene, including - a circumference of at least 500 miles. To the north-east was - Ireland, like a distant mist upon the ocean; and a little to the - right, Snowdon and the other mountains of Caernarvonshire. Further - on, in the same direction, the Isle of Man, the neighbourhood of - Chester, Wrexham, and Salop; the sharp head of the Wrekin, and the - undulating summit of the Cleehills. To the south, I saw the country - round Clifton, Pembrokeshire, St. David’s, and Swansea; to the west, - a vast prospect of the British Channel, bounded by the horizon. - Exclusive of these distant objects, the nearer views were wonderfully - striking. Numberless mountains, of different forms, appearances, and - elevation, rose in all directions; which, with the various harbours, - lakes, and rivers, towns, villages, and villas, scattered over the - extensive prospect, combined to form a scene inexpressibly august, - diversified, and impressive.” {119} - -Mr. Aikin ascended it from Dolgelly. Llyn y Gader lies about a mile and -a half on the high road to Towyn, which having arrived at, we quitted the -road, and began our ascent. When we had surmounted the exterior ridge, -we descended a little to a deep clear lake, which is kept constantly full -by the numerous tributary torrents which fall down the surrounding rocks. -Hence we climbed a second and still higher chain, up a steep but not -difficult track, over numerous fragments of rock, detached from the -higher parts: we now came to a second and more elevated lake, called Llyn -y Cae, clear as glass, and overlooked by steep cliffs, in such a manner -as to resemble the crater of a volcano, of which a most accurate -representation may be seen in Wilson’s excellent View of Cader Idris. A -clear, loud, and distinct echo repeats every shout which is made near the -lake. The waters of this lake cover an extent of fifty acres, abounding -with trout and other fish. We now began our last and most difficult -ascent, up the summit of Cader Idris itself. The loose columnar stones -lie about in all directions, assuming in many places so regular an -appearance, that they might be mistaken for Druidic remains. Some of -them stand erect, like Maenhirion, and one is dignified with the title -Llêch Idris. Nearer the summit, numerous masses of irregular figures -present themselves. Having gained this ascent, a small plain forms the -base to two eminences, or rocky heads, of nearly equal height, one lying -towards the north, called Tyrran Mawr, the other to the south, called Pen -y Gader. We made choice of the latter, which appeared the most elevated, -and seated ourselves upon its highest pinnacle to rest, after a laborious -ascent of three hours. We were now above all the eminences within a vast -expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught some grand -views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks, which we before looked -up to with astonishment, were now far below our feet, and many a small -lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon and its -dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we saw the whole curve of -the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon -mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers against the rocky coast -of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon, the bay of -Swansea, the Channel peeping through the openings of the Brecon -mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, the -two Arennig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long chain of the Ferwyn -mountains, to the Breddin hills, on the confines of Shropshire. Dimly, -in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the -plain of Salop. “In viewing scenes, so decidedly magnificent,” says a -pictorial writer, “and to which neither the pen, nor the pencil of the -painter, can ever do justice; and the contemplation of which has the -power of making ample atonement for having studied mankind, the soul -expanding and sublimed, quickens with a spirit of divinity, and appears, -as it were, associated with the Deity himself. For, in the same manner -as a shepherd feels himself ennobled, while sitting with his prince; so, -and in a far more unlimited degree, the beholder feels himself advanced -to a higher scale in the Creation, in being permitted to see and to -admire the grandest of the works of nature.” Having satisfied our -curiosity, and being thoroughly chilled by the keen air of these elevated -regions, we began to descend down the side opposite to that which we had -come up. - -The first stage led us to another beautiful mountain lake, the cold clear -waters of which discharge their superabundance in a stream down the side -of the mountain. All these lakes abound with trout, and in some is found -the gwniad, a fish peculiar to rocky Alpine lakes. Following the course -of the stream, we came upon the edge of the craggy cliffs which overlook -Talyllyn lake. A long and difficult descent conducted us, at last, to -the borders of Talyllyn, where we entered the Dolgelly road. - -The mountain, - - - -CADER IDRIS, - - -in height the second in Wales, rises on the sea-shore, close upon the -north side of the estuary of the small river Disynwy, about a mile from -Towyn. It proceeds with almost a constant ascent; first northwards for -about three miles, then, for ten miles further, runs east-north-east, -giving out from its summit a branch nearly three miles long, in a -south-west direction, parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep and -craggy on every side; but the south descent, especially to the border of -Talyllyn lake, is the most precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its -breadth bears but a small proportion to its length; a line passing along -its base, and intersecting the summit, would scarcely equal four miles -and a half; and in the other parts, it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly -ever exceeds one mile in breadth. Cader Idris is the beginning of a -chain of primitive mountains, extending in a north-north-east direction, -and including the Arrans and the Arennigs. It is much loftier, and more -craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which surround it. - -The following Ode, by a friend, was written at the fountain welling from -the side of this mountain. - - -I. - - - The winds are hush’d: the woods are still; - And clouds around yon towering hill, - In silent volumes roll:— - While o’er the vale, the moon serene - Throws yellow on the living green; - And wakes a harmony between - The body and the soul. - - - -II. - - - Deceitful calm! yon volumes soon, - Though gilded by the golden moon, - Will send the thunder’s roar: - Gloom will succeed the glowing ray; - The storm will rage with giant sway; - And lightnings will illume its way - Along the billowy shore. - - - -III. - - - ’Tis thus in life, from youth to age, - Through manhood’s weary pilgrimage, - What flattering charms infest! - We little think beneath a smile, - How many a war, how many a wile, - The rich, confiding, heart beguile, - And rob it of its rest. - - - -IV. - - - Then let me near this fountain lie; - And let old Time in silence fly, - Stealing my youth away! - Far from the riot of the mean, - Oh! let me o’er this fountain lean; - Till Death has drawn the darksome skreen, - That hides eternal day. - -Mr. Bingley ascended this mountain from the Blue Lion, kept by Jones, -before mentioned, who acts as guide: from this spot Mr. Bingley declares -himself capable of attaining the summit in two hours, from which he -describes the views to be more varied, if not so extensive, as from -Snowdon. - -“In descending,” he says, “I took a direction eastward of that in which I -had gone up, and proceeded along that part of the mountain called Mynydd -Moel. The path in this direction is sufficiently sloping to allow a -person to ride even to the summit. A gentleman, mounted on a little -Welsh poney, had done this a few days before I was here.” - - “About two miles from Dolgelly is the pretty village of Llanettyd, - and from hence, a road through the vale to Maentwrog, which vale is - seen to much advantage from the bridge. From this village likewise a - path leads to Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, founded in 1198, by Meredith - and Griffith, lords of Merioneth, and sons of Cynan ap Owen Gwynedd, - prince of North Wales. The monks were of the Cistercian order, and - the abbey was dedicated to St. Mary. - - “The approach to Barmouth was formerly over a prodigious mountain, - surmounted with great difficulty, and passed with apprehension of - destruction. The magistrates of the county, however, bent on - improvement, agreed with an undertaker to form a road out of the - steep rocks jutting out from the sea, and to guard it with a wall. - The labour was astonishing, the price two guineas a yard. It is now - a most charming road, exhibiting romantic boldness of scenery. - - “A stone bridge of several arches conducts over Wnion, which here - flows many hundred feet wide. On the right, at a mile distant from - the town, on the bank of the river, are the ruins of Kymmer Abbey. - Two miles from Dolgelly is Nanneau Park, once the residence of Hawel - Sele, an inveterate enemy of Owen Glyndwr, the ancient seat of the - family of that name, now of Sir William Vaughan, Bart. The road is - by a steep ascent, and the house stands on very high ground. Sir - Robert Vaughan erected a new and handsome mansion. In the upper part - of the park are the remains of a British post, called Moel Orthrwn, - or the Hill of Oppression. Returning towards Barmouth, you regain - the road at Llan Ettyd, where the tide flows to a considerable - height. Brigs are built here of 200 tons burden. - - “From Llan Ettyd to Barmouth is ten miles of most excellent road, - winding round the hill opposite to Dolgelly, on a shelf of rock, - through hanging woods, across a handsome stone bridge over the - Mawddach, when it joins the Wnion. The expanse of water here is - considerable at high tide, having the appearance of a large lake, - enveloped by mountains. The vivid summit of Cader now assumes the - appearance of a volcano. The road follows the inequalities of the - shore, till it occupies a narrow shelf of the perpendicular rock of - Barmouth. Here is a fine view of the river falling into the - beautiful bay of Cardigan.”—NICHOLSON. - - - -BARMOUTH. - - -It is advisable for all travellers, pedestrians not excepted, to leave -Dolgelly at high water, as without that, the scenery loses much of its -beauty; if convenient, it is certainly preferable to hire a boat at the -Stoves; the charge is three shillings and sixpence; by this you will save -a walk of eight miles, and both from your situation, and from being more -at your ease, will better admit of your observing the surrounding -scenery, with which you cannot fail to be highly gratified. - -This short excursion of eight miles is truly grand, awful, and sublime; -and, though many parts of this striking valley are richly cultivated, -yet, by the side of the road, enormous mountains, formed into the most -capricious shapes, shoot into the clouds, sometimes projecting so far -over the road, as seemingly designing to impede our farther progress: the -wide expanse of the ocean in front, with the arm of the sea running up -the country in the centre of the valley; in fine, the _tout ensemble_ -claimed our highest admiration. - -Barmouth, though considered as a bathing-place, is very inferior to -Tenby, yet its situation for grandeur of rocks has been frequently -compared, by many Tourists, to Gibraltar; and by others esteemed not -unlike St. Kitts, in the West Indies. The vast sand-banks, formed by the -tides, immediately in front of the town, are the only barriers which -protect it from the inundations of the sea. The shore is extremely -level, and affords, for many miles, excellent riding. - -Barmouth is the only port in the county of Merioneth: but the entrance to -it is difficult. The town is built on ledges of rock, one rising above -another, so that the inhabitants of one street look down upon the -chimnies of that which is before them. - -The board and lodging is regulated on the same excellent plan here as at -Tenby, with very little difference in respect to the expense. We could -not avoid observing the number of pigs, which are esteemed in this part -of the country far superior to any in England, lying in every corner of -the street; and these pigs, I rather imagine, consider themselves, during -the night, inmates of the peasant’s cottage: yet these hardships, if they -may be distinguished by that name, the inhabitants of the hovel suffer -without complaint, and deem themselves perfectly happy as long as they -possess a pile of turf to keep off the inclemency of the winter’s blast, -a small strip of ground well stocked with potatoes, some poultry, and a -fat pig: one hovel, however, protects them all. Though, to appearance, -their situation is most miserable, yet it has no effect on their tempers -and dispositions; their hospitality, and indeed kindness, towards -strangers in distress, is an interesting trait in their character: to -instance this I am induced to mention an anecdote which took place at -Hubberstone, not long ago. A lady anxiously waiting the arrival of her -husband from Ireland at the miserable village of Hubberstone, soon -interested even the meaner inhabitants of the place in her behalf; who, -willing to render her situation as comfortable as possible, seemed to vie -with each other in producing the most delicious fruits, and the choicest -garlands of flowers, to present them to the unhappy consort; and, not -content alone with this, she was generally greeted in the streets, with -the phrase, “There goes poor Mrs. L—.” The lady, at last, impatient for -the arrival of her husband, determined to sail for Ireland. The -faithfulness of the little group that accompanied her to the shore can -better be imagined than described; the last farewell, with tears of -artless innocence, and the beseeching that Providence “who governs the -waves, and stills the raging of the sea,” to grant her a prosperous -voyage, all this seemed to come so thoroughly from the bottom of their -hearts, that we cannot avoid feeling ourselves interested in their -behalf. - -The road from hence to - - - -HARLECH - - -is stony and uninteresting; to the left, an unbounded view of the wide -ocean; and, in front, the steep mountains of North Wales rose in endless -perspective. About four miles from Barmouth, we past the two lodges at -Tal-y-bont, leading to Corsy-Gedol, the seat of Sir Thomas Mostyn. It is -practicable to go by the sands; but we were given to understand that the -turnpike was, if anything, shorter, the scenery more pleasing, and the -guides necessary for crossing those dangerous sands, in general, most -complete villains. - -Harlech, anciently called Twr-Bronwen, though formed by King Edward I. -into a borough, can now be esteemed little more than a dirty village: the -present castle, one of the most entire in Wales, is founded on a very -high rock, projecting in the Irish sea. It consists of a square -building, each side measuring about seventy yards, having at every corner -a round tower. From each of these issued formerly a round turret, all -now destroyed, except one or two. These fortifications, fosses, and -situation on the verge of a perpendicular rock, rendered it almost -invulnerable. - -This castle is one of the strongest and handsomest in Wales. It is in -the possession of the Crown, and in time of war has a small garrison for -the defence of the coast. From the top of the walls to the marsh the -height is very considerable, and from thence the bay of Cardigan is seen -to great advantage: in addition to this, the shagged summits of Cader -Buchan and Snowdon, in Caernarvonshire, being enveloped in clouds, appear -scarcely visible. - -At the public-house we accidentally met with a well-informed man, who -minutely delineated every part of the castle; and, beginning with the -founder, in the true characteristic style of a Welshman, ran through his -pedigree several generations: this, however, did not interest us cursory -pedestrians; and, with little persuasion, we soon induced him to write -down, in as concise a manner as possible, any information he was -acquainted with respecting the castle: “The founder of Harlech castle, -A.D. 552, was Maelgwyn; Gwynedd; made Caer Dugoll (Shrewsbury); Caer -Gyffin (Aber Conway); Caer Gollwyn (Harleck); supposed to be buried in -Cirencester, and reigned thirty-four years.” Whether this information is -correct, I will not take upon me to assert; but meeting with a Welshman -in this part of the country capable of writing, rather surprised us, and -induced me to transcribe this short paragraph. - -In the year 1408 it was taken by the Earl of Pembroke; and afforded -likewise shelter to Margaret of Anjou, after the battle of Northampton in -1460; and was the last in North Wales which held out for the King, being -surrendered to General Mytton in 1647. - -In a garden near this castle was dug up, in the year 1692, an ancient -golden torques, of a round form, an inch in circumference, and weighing -eight ounces. This curious relic of British antiquity, exhibited in a -drawing by Mr. Pennant, still continues in the possession of the Mostyn -family. As we had not an opportunity of examining the original, this -account can only be gathered from the information of former authors, who -represent it as “a wreathed bar, or rather three or four rods twisted -together, about four feet long, flexible, but bending naturally only one -way, in form of a hat-band: it originally had holes at each end, not -twisted or sharp, but plain, and cut even.” - -In the year 1694, the prodigious phenomenon of fire or kindled -exhalation, which disturbed the inhabitants of this neighbourhood, is -both singular and extraordinary: sixteen ricks of hay, and two barns, -were burnt by a kindled exhalation, or blue weak flame, proceeding from -the sea: this lasted about a fortnight or three weeks, poisoning the -grass, and firing it for the space of a mile. It is extraordinary, that -it had no effect on the men who interposed their endeavours to save the -ricks from destruction, even by running into it. For a more accurate -account of this singular phenomenon, I refer my readers to the -Philosophical Transactions, No. 208, and likewise to the Addenda in -Camden: suffice it to say, that the air and grass were so infected, that -it occasioned a great mortality of cattle, horses, sheep, and goats. The -various conjectures that have been formed, to account for this kindled -exhalation, seem to be very unsatisfactory; something similar to this, -both in the appearance and in the effect, happened in France, in the year -1734. - -As from the unfavourableness of the weather, we had not contemplated the -rich scenery between Barmouth and Dolgelly, with that nice investigation -which it deserved, we determined, by returning to our obliging landlady -at the Corsy-Gedol arms, to seize the opportunity of again admiring its -beauties; and, by taking a more circuitous route to the vale of -Festiniog, pay that attention to the falls of Doll-y-mullin, Moddach, and -Cayne, which they so deservedly require. - -This second saunter we found by no means tedious: the scene seemed -perpetually changing at every unexpected curvature of the road; and the -rude features of the mountains appeared to assume new forms, as the -winding presented them to the eye in different attitudes; whilst the -shifting vapours, which partially concealed their minuter grandeur, -assisted the illusions of the sight. Amidst new woods, rising in the -majesty of foliage, the scattered cottage, with its bluish smoke curling -high in the air, was frequently rendered interesting by its neat -simplicity; and served to constitute the romantic beauties of this -picturesque ramble. - -This pleasing scenery varied little till we arrived within two miles of -Dolgelly, when several gentlemens’ seats burst upon our sight; and -leaving that enchanting spot to the left, at the Laneltyd turnpike, a -different object presented itself to our view. For four miles we walked -by the side of a hill, the most translucent stream attending us the whole -way; for, though the road was situated so much above it, yet the sandy -bottom, with the finny tribe, in considerable numbers sporting in this -transparent element, were easily descried. On each side the mountains -rose to a considerable height, with the craggy summit of Cader Idris -claiming the pre-eminence. We soon arrived at the small ale-house, -(Traveller’s Rest), where we met the labourer of Mr. Madox, whom we were -recommended to inquire for, as a proper cicerone to the water-falls in -his vicinity. Having finished our scanty but wholesome repast, we -repaired with an old woman (the labourer being confined to the house by -indisposition), to the fall of Doll-y-mullin. There appeared to be -something singular in the appearance of this “mountain elf:” destitute of -shoes and stockings, in the true Cambrian style, she tripped it, -occasionally singing, and sometimes discontented with the world, herself -and every thing, uttering a most dismal groan. This excited our -curiosity; but, to learn much of her situation we soon found -impracticable; her knowledge of the English language was very trivial; -and, as she seemed not much inclined to give us any information -respecting the adjacent country, we found it useless to make inquiries -concerning her condition in life. - -Our surly conductress first led us through Mr. Madox’s grounds; to the -left of the Tan-y-bwlch road, by a most delightful walk cut through the -wood, we soon reached the Fall of Doll-y-mullin, the roaring of which had -a long time announced its vicinity. This cataract, though considered -only as a prelude to the grand Falls of the Cayne and Moddach, is still -worthy the attention of the passing traveller: for, though the river -precipitates itself not more than fifty feet, yet, the projection and -situation of the rocks, and the thick oak carelessly throwing its broad -brown arms across the troubled waters, is singularly pleasing. We had -hitherto only contemplated this scene from the foot of the fall; but how -noble the effect when we began to wind up the steep ascent, and paused at -every basin, which the water had formed in the excavated rock! - -By a retrograde saunter we soon gained the Tan-y-bwlch road; and, passing -over the romantic bridge of Pont ar Garfa, beautifully entwined with the -rich drapery of ivy, we ascended a steep path over the slaty mountain of -Tylyn Gwladys, two miles in extent.—Sublimity, indeed, gave place to -elegance: behind us, the huge steep of Cader Idris, lifting high above -the rolling clouds its shaggy head, of which, at intervals, we caught a -glance through the thick mist which enveloped it; in front, Snowdon, -conscious of pre-eminence, rose in the distant perspective: these were -the boundaries of our view. On the opposite side a barren mountain, -dignified by the name of Prince of Wales, appeared scarcely accessible, -but to the steps of the enthusiast. This formerly afforded a vast -quantity of ore, but it has lately so much failed, as not to produce even -a sufficiency to remunerate the miners. While traversing these barren -mountains, it is not less singular than interesting occasionally to meet -the most delicious valleys, watered by some foaming river; these are -often literally surcharged - - “With weighted rains, and melted Alpine snows.” - -Such is the true characteristic of the Welsh scenery: the finest verdure -and the most enchanting valleys are discovered in the bosom of sterility; -where natural cascades, precipitating themselves from their rude -pinnacles, alone disturb the silence which reigns in that asylum. These -render it more enchanting to the inquisitive pedestrians, for these -landscapes are only accessible to their steps: and the distant swell of -the cataract had now long proclaimed our proximity to the object in -pursuit. The Falls of the Cayne and the Moddach are at no great distance -from one another, being only separated by a thick wood. Crossing a small -bridge, above fifty feet from the water, formed only by the trunk of an -oak, which has accidentally fallen across the rapid torrent, our -conductress very judiciously selected the latter as the first object of -our admiration. The computed measurement of this fall is estimated at -between seventy and eighty feet, dividing itself into three distinct -parts, each finely broken by the projected rocks. The quantity of water -is very inconsiderable; but the whole is admirably presented to the eye -in one view. The first fall, about twenty feet, precipitates itself into -a deep pool, thirty feet diameter; from thence over a second ledge, -thirty feet high; and, lastly, it discharges itself into a pool of -considerable dimensions. The declivities of the rocks are luxuriantly -clothed with wood; the oak more particularly spreading its gigantic arms -across the foaming torrent: a variety of trees, indeed, profusely -embellish the whole of this glen, which are finely contrasted with the -dark brown rocks; constituting so finished a picture, and representing -such a variety of colours, that their beauties can be better conceived -than described. - -We now returned to the Fall of the Cayne, infinitely superior to any in -Wales, being two hundred feet perpendicular, uninterrupted by rocks, and -not intercepted by the thick wood which encircles it. For a considerable -time we both of us gazed with that rapt admiration, which loathes to be -disturbed by the mutual exchange of ideas; and, stunned with the -continual uproar, and never-ceasing tumultuous motion of the sparkling -foam, we silently admired the grandeur of the landscape. On each side -the horrific crags seemed to bid defiance to the goat’s activity. The -Cayne, after this stunned cataract, throws its troubled waters over a -rocky bed, till it unites itself with the Moddach below. - -“The feelings, with which we view objects of the above description,” says -the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, “oppose -the theory of Mr. Burke, who confines sublimity to objects of terror, -those of Lord Kaimes, and Dr. Gerard, who make it to consist in -magnitude, and Dr. Blair, who places it in ‘force,’ are equally -erroneous. The idea of Longinus, were we to associate sublimity in -poetry with that of the material world, (which we are, however, not -authorized to do,) is far from being correct. He defines it ‘a proud -elevation of mind.’ When applied to material objects, this is neither -cause nor consequence; for the experience of every man, from the proudest -of princes to the humblest of peasants, proclaims, that the effect of all -sublimity is astonishment, blended with awe: and when, at one moment, did -pride and awe unite in the same bosom? The difference between sublimity -of writing, and sublimity in objects, has not been sufficiently -distinguished by the several writers on the subject of taste. No objects -are beautiful or sublime, but by virtue of association. If they were, -the Vale of Aylesbury would be beautiful to him, who had long resided in -the Vale of Clwyd: and the Cliffs of Dover and the Peaks of Scotland -would be equally sublime to the native of Crim Tartary and the peasant of -the Tyrol. The opinions of many philosophers, in respect to the pleasure -we derive from objects, which excite our pity, are equally false. The -Abbé du Bos, Fontenelle, Hume, Akenside, and Burke, are all in error. We -must refer to principles; and the principle in this argument resolves -itself into the conclusion, that misfortune elicits sympathy, after the -same manner that magnets affine, and planets gravitate. But actual final -causes we have no power to define; though we frequently presume to do so. -Man, indeed, has the faculty of judging, limitedly, of effects; but vain, -proud, and arrogant as he is, he can only reason hypothetically, when he -would treat of final causes and of final consequences.” - -With reluctance we left this romantic situation; and, according to the -directions of our conductress, soon found ourselves in the turnpike-road -to Tan-y-bwlch, understanding that Mr. Warner’s route to Pen-street -afforded indifferent walking. Stupendous mountains attended us some way; -and, to borrow a description from a celebrated author, they “looked like -the rude materials of creation, forming the barrier of unwrought space.” -The sun was now making a “golden set:” the mountains were thrown together -in noble masses, appearing to scale the heavens, to intercept its rays, -and emulous to receive the parting tinge of lingering day. We were -watching with admiration the mild splendour of its light, fading from the -distant landscape, when we perceived the rich vale of Festiniog suddenly -open itself to our view: we observed the busy group of haymakers, who had -completed their day’s labour, returning to their homes: - - “While heard from dale to dale, - Waking the breeze, resounds the blended voice - Of happy labour, love, and social glee.” - -Pleased with this rustic scene, we caught the cheerful song, which was -wafted on the gentle breeze. With pleasure we anticipated a saunter -through this vale, early the ensuing morning: for one tint of sober grey -had now covered its various coloured features, and the sun had now -gleamed its last light upon the rivulet which winds through the bottom. - - - -TAN-Y-BWLCH. - - -The “rich-hair’d youth of morn” had not long left his saffron bed, and -the very air was balmy as it freshened into morn, when we hurried from -our inn to enjoy the luxuries of the vale of Festiniog, so well -celebrated by the pen of Lord Littleton: “With the woman one loves, with -the friend of one’s heart, and a good study of books, one may pass an age -there, and think it a day. If one has a mind to live long, and renew his -youth, let him come and settle at Festiniog.” These are the sentiments -of Lord Littleton, in which seemed to be verified the situation of Mr. -Oakley, who has selected this spot for his residence. Tan-y-Bwlch hall -(for by that name is Mr. Oakley’s seat dignified) is environed by a thick -wood, which climbs the steep mountains behind his mansion. We followed -the meandering and translucent waters of the river Dryryd, till we -arrived at the village of Maetwrong, situated about the middle of this -paradise. Passing through the village we observed a small but neat -cottage, which was rendered interesting to the wayfarer, by its neat -simplicity. A large old fashioned chimney corner, with benches to -receive a social party, formed a most enviable retreat from the rude -storms of winter, and defied alike the weather and the world:—with what -pleasure did I picture - - “A smiling circle, emulous to please,” - -gathering round a blazing pile of wood on the hearth, free from all the -vicissitudes and cares of the world; happy in their own home, blessed in -the sweet affection of kindred amity, regardless of the winter blast that -struggled against the window, and the snow that pelted against the roof. -On our entering, the wife, who possessed “the home of happiness, an -honest breast,” invited us to take a seat under the window; which, -overlooking the village, and the dark tower of the church, offered the -delights of other seasons. The sweets of a little garden joined its -fragrance to the honey-suckle, which enwreathed with rich drapery the -windows; and here too lay the old family Bible, which had been put aside -on our first entrance. We regretted our not having had an opportunity of -seeing the husband, whom I make no doubt - - “Envied not, and never thought of kings, - Nor from those appetites sustain’d annoy, - That chance may frustrate, or indulgence cloy; - Each season look’d delightful as it past, - To the fond husband, and the faithful wife.” - -“About a mile east of this village,” says Mr. Evans, “are two remarkable -waterfalls, called Rhaiadr Du, on the river Cynvel, one about three -hundred yards above, and the other below a rustic bridge thrown over the -river, to which it leads. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, -over which the water foams into a deep black bason, overshadowed by the -adjoining rocks. The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, -precipitated down a rock forty feet high, and darkened by the numerous -foliage around it, almost to the edge of the stream. Between the -cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, called the pulpit of -_Hugh Llwyd Cynvel_, and situate in the bed of the river, from whence, -sage tradition says, a magician used to deliver his nocturnal -incantations.” There are few objects in Wales more worthy to be visited, -than these waterfalls. - -From Festiniog, a pleasant excursion may be made to Tremadoc and -Cricceath, and from thence to Pwllheli and Bardsey island. Tremadoc, -which is situate at the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, in the promontory of -Llyn, is about eight miles from Pont-Aber-Glaslyn: its situation is low, -being three feet below low water mark, built on land reclaimed from the -sea, by the spirited exertions of William Alexander Madocks, Esq. of -Tany-yr-alt. - -The town, which is an oblong square, contains a handsome market-house, -over which are assembly-rooms: a church, a good inn, the Tremadoc Arms, -and a bank. The reclaimed land consists of about two thousand acres, -which, in less than three years, was covered with vegetation; it now -produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, clover, &c. &c. - -Mr. Madocks, after having succeeded in this arduous undertaking, set -about the still more difficult one of throwing an embankment across the -mouth of the Traeth Mawr; as an inducement for the accomplishing of -which, a grant was made to him from the crown, in 1807, of the whole of -these sands, from Pontaber-glasllyn to the point of Gêst. - -The length of the embankment, from north to south, would be about a mile; -its breadth at the base one hundred feet, at the top thirty. The whole -of this has been completed to within one hundred yards in the centre, and -it is to be hoped this noble work will still be accomplished: funds only -seem now necessary for its completion: strong chain cables extended -across the opening, and hulks then sunk and filled would soon allow them -to finish the embankment. After seeing those in North Holland nothing is -to be despaired of. Long faggots, from seven to ten feet, straw, rushes, -and sand are the best sea-walls, sloping them gradually for the rise of -the tide. Those in Holland seemed constantly to have been increased by -the action of the sea, instead of having been diminished. - - - -CRICCAETH - - -is a small borough and market town. Its population is now about four -hundred: it, jointly with Caernarvon, &c. sends a member to parliament. - -Its ruined castle is not unworthy of attention; it stands on an eminence -projecting into the sea, and the entrance to it by land, being only along -an isthmus, defended by a double foss and vallum, it must formerly have -been strong. The gateway is between two towers, or bastions, externally -round, but square within; the facings of which are ascribed to Edward the -1st.; the other towers are entirely square. There have been two courts, -but neither of them large, nor indeed has the whole castle been a -building of any other than small extent. - -It is now in a ruinous state. The view from the ruins over the bay to -Haerlech is beautiful. In the neighbourhood of Pwllheli are several -respectable family seats; and the country in its vicinity is generally -better cultivated than the rest of the promontory: the town itself is -irregular and unpleasant; but it carries on a good coasting trade, and -vessels of considerable burthen are here built. The petty sessions for -the district of Llyn are held here; it is likewise contributory to -Carmarthen, in sending a member to parliament. Along the coast to -Bardsey Island, a considerable trade in fishing is carried on: herrings -frequent this coast in great abundance, and are very fine: some are cured -here, and quantities sold to the Irish. Here likewise are taken both -john dories and smelts; the former of which was rejected by the fishermen -on the score of its ugliness. - -The sail from hence to Bardsey Island is both tedious and dangerous. -Passing the bay called Hell’s Mouth, of which, Mr. Bingley says, “I never -saw a place which presented so favourable an appearance, and that was at -the time so much dreaded by the mariners as the present. It is at the -very end of the promontory, and from point to point is supposed to -measure about eight miles; it is also nearly semicircular. None but -strange vessels, even in the most boisterous weather, ever seek for -shelter here; and when they are so unfortunate, they are soon stranded -and never again return. ‘We remember, (says Mr. Jones, in one of his -letters,) more misfortunes to have happened in this bay, and more -inhumanity shewn to the sufferers, than we have ever heard of any where -else on the Welsh coast.’ My pilot, who had been long acquainted with -every part of these coasts, informed me, that, from whatever point of the -compass the wind blew out at sea, on account of the surrounding high -rocks, it always came into the mouth of this bay; and from whatever -quarter the tide flowed, the upper current here always sets inwards. -From these circumstances, the common tradition is, that the place -obtained the appellation of _Hell’s Mouth_. - -“The whole coast, from the Rivals round the end of the land, nearly to -Pwllheli, is terminated only by high and steep rocks, inhabited in the -summer by a variety of sea-fowl.” Mr. Bingley, having failed in his -attempt to land in Bardsey, gives the following account of that island, -from the letters of the Rev. — Jones, vicar of Aberdaron, to whose parish -it belongs. - - - -ISLAND OF BARDSEY. - - -“This island, which is the property of Lord Newborough, is somewhat more -than two miles long, and one in breadth; and contains about three hundred -and seventy acres of land; of which nearly one-third is occupied by a -high mountain, that affords feed only for a few sheep and rabbits. Its -distance from the main land is about a league. Towards the south-east -and south-west it lies entirely open, but on the north and north-east it -is sheltered by its mountain, which to the sea presents a face of -perpendicular, and in some parts overhanging rocks. Among these -precipices the intrepid inhabitants, in the spring of the year, employ -themselves in collecting the eggs of the various sea-fowl that frequent -them. This is usually done bare-footed, to prevent them from slipping -from heights, whence they must be dashed to pieces; and their concern for -their safety while seizing these eggs, is infinitely less than that of -the beholder, sitting securely in the boat below. - - Nor untrembling canst thou see, - How from a craggy rock, whose prominence - Half o’ershades the ocean, hardy men - Fearless of dashing waves do gather them. - -“These poor fellows do not often meet with accidents, except by the -giving way of pieces of the rock. In this case they are irrecoverably -lost. The men who venture without ropes are accounted by the natives the -most bold climbers: those who are more cautious fix a rope about their -middle, which is held by some persons on the top of the rock. By this -they slip down to the place where they think the most eggs are to be -found. Here, untying it from their body, they fasten it to the basket -that is to contain the eggs, which they carry in their hand. When this -is filled, they make a signal to their companions to draw them up. In -this manner they proceed from rock to rock, ascending or descending as -they find it necessary. They adopt the same modes in collecting -samphire, with which the rocks also abound. - -“On the south-east side of the island, the only side on which it is -accessible to the mariner, there is a small but well-sheltered harbour, -capable of admitting vessels of thirty or forty tons burthen. In this -the inhabitants secure their own fishing-boats. The soil is principally -clay, and produces excellent barley and wheat; vetches, peas, and beans, -are said to succeed sufficiently well; but to oats it is not so -favourable. Trees will not grow here, the keen westerly winds -immediately destroying the young plants. Indeed, except a small quantity -of fine meadow land, all the lower ground of the island is of little -value. No reptile is ever seen in this island, except the common water -lizard. None of the inhabitants ever saw in it a frog, toad, or snake of -any kind. - -“Till about fourteen years ago, no sparrows had been known to breed here: -three nests were, however, built, during the same spring, and the produce -has since completely colonized the place. - -“There are here but eight houses, although the number of inhabitants is -upwards of seventy. Two or three of the principal of these rent the -island of Lord Newborough. They pay for it a hundred guineas a-year, and -have their land tythe free, and are also freed from taxes and rates of -every description. They keep about twenty horses and near thirty cows. -All the former, though greatly overstocking so small a place, are -absolutely necessary, on account of the great labour required in carrying -up the sea-weeds from the coast for manure. - -“The sheep are small, and on the approach of a stranger, as Mr. Jones -informs me, they squall not much unlike hares. Their activity is very -remarkable. In the year 1801, Mr. Jones had one of them on his farm, at -Aberdaron, that had twice ventured through the sea, though the channel is -three miles across, and regained the island. The inhabitants train their -dogs to catch them; but if the sheep once gain the rocks, they bid -defiance to every attempt for the time, as, rather than suffer themselves -to be seized, they will plunge from thence into the sea. At the time of -the year when the females usually drop their offspring, the inhabitants -watch them every day, and before they are able to follow their dams, they -mark them in the ears: they then suffer them to range at liberty. -Without this attention, from the extreme wildness of the animals, the -owners would never be able to distinguish their respective property. -Some few of the sheep of the island, from having been rendered tame when -young, are more easily managed: these alone submit to be folded in the -evening. - -“Curiosity induces many persons to visit this island almost every summer; -but the grandest sight the present inhabitants ever witnessed, was a -visit of the proprietor, Lord Newborough, and several persons of -distinction, in the whole to the number of about forty. This company -embarked in fishing-smacks from Porther, near Carreg Hall, in the parish -of Aberdaron. On their arrival in the island, marquees were immediately -pitched. The whole company dined in the open air; and at the conclusion -of their repast, all the inhabitants were assembled. The ensuing scene -reminded a gentleman of my acquaintance, who was present, of what he had -read respecting the inhabitants of some of the South Sea islands. They -were drawn up into a circle, and Lady Newborough adorned the heads of the -females with caps and ribbons, whilst Lord Newborough distributed hats -among the men. The nominal king and queen of the island were -distinguished from the rest by an additional ribbon.” - -Mr. B. concludes by giving the following history of Bardsey: “The Welsh -name of this place is Ynys-Enlli. During the violent struggles between -the Welsh and English, it was styled by the poets the sanctuary or asylum -of the Saints, and it was sometimes denominated the Isle of Refuge. Some -of these poets assert that it was the cemetery of _twenty thousand -saints_! {144} - -“The reputed sanctity of this island induced the religious to resort to -it, from many very distant parts of the country. It has been asserted by -several writers, that Roderic Moelwynog, prince of North Wales, first -founded here a monastery, some time in the eighth century. He might, -perhaps, rebuild or enlarge it, but there are good grounds, from Welsh -manuscripts, for supposing that there was a religious house in this -island of a much more early date. There is an old legend yet extant, -written in Monkish Latin, which assures us that the Almighty had entered -into a particular covenant with Laudatus, the first abbot of Bardsey, in -return for the piety of his monks. This granted to all the religious of -the monastery of Bardsey, the peculiar privilege of dying according to -seniority, the oldest always going off first. By this privilege, it is -stated, that every one knew very nearly the time of his departure. The -following is a translation of it:—‘At the original foundation of the -monastery of this island, the Lord God who attendeth to the petitions of -the just, at the earnest request of the holy Laudatus, the first abbot, -entered into a covenant with that holy man, and miraculously confirmed -his promise, unto him, his successors, the abbots and monks for ever, -while they should lead holy and religious lives, that they should die by -succession, that is, that the oldest should die first, like a shock of -corn ripe for the sickle. Being thus warned of the approach of death, -each of them, therefore, should watch, as not knowing at what exact hour -the thief might come; and, being thus always prepared, each of them by -turns should lay aside his earthly form. God, who is ever faithful, kept -his covenant, as he formerly did with the Israelites, inviolable; until -the monks no longer led a religious life, but began to profane and defile -God’s sanctuary by their fornications and abominable crimes. Wherefore, -after this, they were permitted to die like other men, sometimes the -older, sometimes the younger, and sometimes the middle-aged first; and, -being thus uncertain of the approach of death, they were compelled to -submit to the general laws of mortality. Thus, when they ceased to lead -a holy and religious life, God’s miraculous covenant also ceased: and do -thou, therefore, O God, have mercy upon us.” - -The ancient building is now entirely destroyed; but, about the ground -where the monastery stood, a great number of graves have very lately been -discovered, lined with white stone or tile, and distant about two feet -from each other. All the religious duties of the inhabitants are now -performed in the parish church of Aberdaron. Sometimes, however, in -stormy weather, they are under the necessity of interring their own dead -in the island. - -At Pwllheli good accommodation will be found at the Crown and Anchor inn; -but if proceeding farther in the Llyn, the traveller must depend solely -on the hospitality of individuals. - - - -PWLLHELI. - - -The market-days at this place are Wednesdays and Saturdays: its -population is rated at about thirteen hundred. The beach here is -excellent; and so much resorted to in the summer season that it appears -probable it will grow into notice as a sea bathing-place. Several -hundred acres of land in the vicinity of the town, which used to be -overflowed by high tides, have been reclaimed by embankments on both -sides of the town. It is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and a -recorder. - -Returning from Pwllheli, towards Criccaeth, the country wears the most -beautiful aspect. The richly wooded scenery is relieved by shaggy rocks -and partial views of the sea, being caught through the opening glades -passing Llanstundwy, situate on the river Dwyfor, which after heavy rains -overflows its banks and greatly incommodes it. I left the road, and -proceeded by Trefan Hall, the handsome mansion of Mr. Roberts, to a -cromlech, about a mile distant, called Coeten Arthur, or Arthur’s Quoit, -which the said Arthur, as report says, threw from a mountain near -Beddgelert. It is handsome and in high preservation: the top stone is -nearly three feet in thickness. But a still finer cromlech is about a -mile from this, at a farm called Ystim Cegid; the flat stone of this is -about eighteen inches in thickness, and is about thirty-six feet in -circumference: its form is triangular, and its supporters of that height, -that will allow a man on horseback to go under it; this also is called -Arthur’s Quoit. From hence to Criccaeth the road is dull and -uninteresting: near the ruins of the small chapel of Bettws, is Chewilog, -an old mansion, formerly belonging to the ancestors of Sir Howel, -surnamed y-Fwyall, from his remarkable dexterity in the use of the -battle-axe, which weapon he used with such effect in the battle of -Poictiers, that the capture of the French monarch is, by many, ascribed -to him; at all events, his conduct on that day drew down upon him the -regards of the Black Prince to such extent, that he not only bestowed -upon him the constableship of Criccaeth castle, but likewise knighted -him; and, in perpetual memorial of his good services, it was directed -that a mess of meat should, at the expence of the crown, be every day -served up before the axe with which he had performed such good service. -After the mess had been brought before the knight, it was taken and -distributed among the poor. Eight yeomen attendants were constituted to -guard the mess, who received each eight-pence a day pay, and were termed -yeomen of the crown: these were continued on the establishment till the -reign of Queen Elizabeth; and it is by many conceived, and by no means -improbable, that the yeomen of the crown, which we do not read of in -history till the reign of Henry the VIIth, are indebted to these for -their origin. After the death of Sir Howel, the mess was still carried -before the axe, and bestowed on the poor for the repose of his soul. -Besides the above honours conferred upon him, he was constable of Chester -castle; had Dwyfor, and others, the king’s mills, to farm; with a grant -of the wiers and fisheries on the coast, and many other offices of great -trust and profit. - -Between Criccaeth and Penmorva, you pass Stumllyn, formerly the seat of -the Wynnes, now the seat of — Jones, Esq. of Machynlleth. Near -Clenenney, on Bwlch Craig Wenn, is a fine Druidical circle, consisting at -present of thirty-eight stones; and about a mile from this, above -Penmorva, is another. On Llysdin farm some small urns, containing human -bones and ashes, have lately been discovered. At a small distance is -Brynkir, which Lord Lyttleton took up his residence at when he visited -this part of the principality. This part of the country was formerly the -seat of dreadful feuds, and appears to have been inhabited by a most -ferocious and irascible set of beings. They were of two clans, one -descended from Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales; the other was derived -from Collwyn ap Tangno. The history of Evionedd, or Eifionydd, is during -that period one of revenge, perfidy, and slaughter; and to such extent -was it carried, that Meredith ap Jevan preferred taking up his residence -in Dolwyddelan castle, at that time surrounded by robbers and -freebooters, to residing in this district, giving to his friends the -following decisive reason: “If, (said he), I live in my own house in -Evionedd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or submit to be murdered by -them.” He, therefore, rather chose to fight with thieves and outlaws -than with his own immediate relatives. - -“They would quarrel,” says Sir John Wynne, “if it was but for the mastery -of the country, and the first good morrow. John Owen, ap John, ap -Meredydd, and Howel ap Madoc Vychan, fell out for no other reason. Howel -and his people fought valiantly: when he fell, his mother placed her hand -on his head, to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her hand and three -of her fingers cut off, by some of her nearest kindred. An attempt was -made to kill Howel ap Rhys, in his own house, by the sons of John ap -Meredith, for no other reason than that their servants had quarelled -about a fishery. The first set fire to the mansion with great bundles of -straw:—the besieged, terrified with the flames, sheltered themselves -under forms and benches, while Rhys, the old hero, stood sword in hand, -reproaching his men with cowardice, and telling them he had often seen a -greater smoke in that hall on Christmas even. - -“These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other punishment than what -resulted from private revenge, and too often composition was made for the -most horrible murders. There was a _gwerth_, or price of blood, from the -slaughter of a king, to the cutting off one of his subject’s little -fingers.” _Williams’s Caernarvon_. - - - -PENMORFA, - - -the Head of the Marsh, is a wood-clad village, romantically situated in a -nook, between some high rocks at the end of a tract of meadows, on the -western bank of Traeth Mawr. - -The church contains a monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, a valiant -commander in the army, and a staunch supporter of Charles I. Being tried -with the Earl of Holland, Lords Loughborough, Goring, and other noble -supporters of the royal cause, after the death of the king, he exhibited -a spirit coinciding with his former noble daring; and, on being condemned -to lose his head, he bowed to the court, thanking them for the honour -they intended him. On being asked by a member what he meant, in his -usual blunt manner he replied, “I think it a great honour for a poor -gentleman of Wales to lose his head with such noble lords:—by G—, I was -afraid you would have hanged me.” - -Great intercession being made for the other noble personages, and no one -applying or interesting themselves on behalf of Sir John, Cromwell, as -related by some authorities, and Hutchinson and Ireton, as stated by -others, interfered for the worthy knight, whose life was spared: after a -few months confinement, he was allowed to retire to Clenenney, where he -died. - -Mr. Williams, rector of Llauberis, from whose work, recently published, -on the history, antiquities, &c., of Caernarvonshire, I before quoted, -says, in speaking of the situation of Penmorva, and the meadows lying -between it and Traeth Mawr, “they were formerly subject to the -overflowing of the higher tides, till an embankment was made by W. A. -Madox, Esq.; a gentleman to whom this part of the country is greatly -indebted for numerous and great improvements, particularly for the -erection of an embankment, about a mile in length, in order to reclaim -some thousand acres of land; and which now forms a safe and convenient -road between the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth, across the Estuary -of Traeth Mawr; whereas, formerly, many lives were lost in going over -those dangerous sands. Tremadoc, a new town, which bears the name of its -founder, is about a mile distant from Penmorva, and contains from eighty -to a hundred houses. Here is a handsome new church, a market-place, a -comfortable inn, and a great number of good shops: near the town are -several good houses, built by the same gentleman, particularly -Tan-yr-Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.: all of which, as well as every thing in or -about this little town, evidently prove the individual who planned and -conducted the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, -and superior judgment and ability. A market has been established here; -and the fairs, which used to be at Penmorva on the following days, March -6, May 14, August 20, September 25, and Nov. 12, have mostly deserted -that place, and are held at Tremadoc.—Here is an excellent salmon -fishery, a good shore for bathing, and a safe harbour for vessels under -120 tons burthen. It is greatly to be lamented, that the beneficial -improvements by the before-mentioned public-spirited gentleman, W. A. -Madox, Esq. and carried by him to such a state of forwardness, should not -be completed. In the year 1625, Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, conceived the -great design of gaining this immense track (Traeth Mawr,) as well as the -lesser one (Traeth Bach,) from the sea, by means of an embankment; and -for that purpose he implored the assistance of his illustrious -countryman, Sir Hugh Middleton, in a letter which has been preserved, -and, together with that gentleman’s reply, printed in Mr. Pennant’s tour. -A bridge over Traeth Bach, and a new line of road along the sea coast to -Barmouth, and a stage coach or some other more regular mode of conveyance -between North and South Wales, particularly during the summer months, are -still left among the desiderata of this portion of the principality.” - -From Tremadoc, an excellent road of about five miles brought us to the -far-famed Pont Aber-Glaslyn, or the bridge of the harbour of the Blue -Lake; and not uncommonly styled the Devil’s Bridge. This last -appellation has very frequently misled strangers, who, confounding it -with the well-known bridge at Havod, have been much disappointed, their -expectations being raised very high, from the general description of that -place. Of this, indeed, we found an instance on the very spot. This -bridge connects the two counties of Merionethshire and Caernarvonshire; -being, from the parapet to the water, forty feet. From the description -of former tourists, it did not answer our expectations; but the -salmon-leap is an interesting object from the bridge: the height is about -fifteen feet; and, though we observed very many attempt this surprising -feat of agility, not one succeeded. Some fishermen below soon excited -our curiosity, and salmon was here offered for sale at three-pence per -pound. - -An intelligent man here offered himself as our guide to the rich -copper-mines, in the vicinity of Pont Aber-Glaslyn. This miner, having -worked both here and at the Paris Mountain, confidently asserted, that -one pound of this ore was now esteemed equivalent to twice the quantity -produced in Anglesea. Yet for a considerable time little advantage was -derived from the concern, till a company obtained a lease of the mountain -from Mr. Lloyd, the proprietor: and having placed an intelligent agent in -a house near the mines, entered on the concern with that spirit which -merited success. Stupendous cliffs, by the road side, literally rise -eight hundred and sixty feet perpendicularly, and hang in the most -capricious forms over the torrent; which, straggling amongst the recesses -of stone, is hastening forward to disembogue itself into the estuary of -Traeth Mawr. The pass is not more than seventy feet; after much rain it -is entirely inundated by the overflowings of the Glaslyn, which reflect, -as in a mirror, the blackness of the impending cliffs. On the -Caernarvonshire side are several lead mines; but they have not proved -sufficiently rich to reward the labour of working. - -The situation of our inn at - - - -BEDDGELERT - - -is very romantic, and would form an interesting drawing, by taking in a -small bridge of two arches below the house. It is completely encircled -by lofty mountains, which may be considered as subject to the “cloud-capt -Snowdon.” - -Situate at the junction of three vales, its beautiful meadows form a fine -contrast to the surrounding rugged scenery. The church is small, but -lofty; it is supposed to be erected on the site of an ancient priory of -Augustine monks, dedicated to St. Mary, and founded, according to the -account of Mr. Rymer, in his Fœdera, by Lleyelyn ap Iorweth, in gratitude -for the preservation of his son, and as an atonement for the rash effects -of his intemperate rage, so pathetically described in the following poem: -but both the Mr. Williamses, who have written on Caernarvonshire, support -the opinion of its earlier establishment, looking upon it as the most -ancient foundation in the country except Bardsey. Its revenues, -according to the Reverend P. B. Williams’s account, must have been -considerable; which he likewise accounts for as necessary, from its being -on the great road from England and South Wales to North Wales, and from -Ireland to England. In order to enable the prior to keep up his usual -hospitality, Edward the First, after it had greatly suffered by fire in -1283, most generously, at his own expense, repaired all the damages; and -Bishop Anian, about the year 1286, to obtain for it benefactions, -remitted to all such benefactors who truly repented of their sins, forty -days of any penance inflicted on them. - - - -BEDDGELERT, -OR, -THE GREYHOUND’S GRAVE. - - - BY WILLIAM SPENCER. - - The spearman heard the bugle sound, - And cheerly smiled the morn; - And many a brach, and many a hound, - Attend Llewelyn’s horn. - - And still he blew a louder blast, - And gave a louder cheer; - “Come, Gelert, why art thou the last - Llewelyn’s horn to hear? - - “Oh where does faithful Gelert roam? - The flower of all his race; - So true, so brave: a lamb at home; - A lion in the chase.” - - ’Twas only at Llewelyn’s board, - The faithful Gelert fed; - He watch’d, he serv’d, he cheer’d his lord, - And centinel’d his bed. - - In sooth, he was a peerless hound, - The gift of royal John: {154} - But now no Gelert could be found, - And all the chase rode on. - - And, now, as over rocks and dells - The gallant chidings rise, - All Snowdon’s craggy chaos yells, - With many mingled cries. - - That day Llewelyn little loved - The chase of hart or hare, - And scant and small the booty proved, - For Gelert was not there. - - Unpleased, Llewelyn homeward hied; - When near the royal seat, - His truant Gelert he espied, - Bounding his lord to greet. - - But when he gain’d his castle door, - Aghast the chieftain stood; - The hound was smear’d with gouts of gore, - His lips and fangs ran blood! - - Llewelyn gazed with wild surprise, - Unused such looks to meet; - His favourite check’d his joyful guise, - And crouch’d, and lick’d his feet. - - Onward in haste Llewelyn past, - And on went Gelert too: - And still, where’er his eyes he cast, - Fresh blood-gouts shock’d his view! - - O’erturn’d his infant’s bed he found, - The blood-stain’d covert rent: - And all around the walls and ground, - With recent blood besprent. - - He call’d his child; no voice replied; - He search’d with terror wild; - Blood, blood, he found on every side, - But no where found the child! - - “Hell-hound, by thee my child’s devour’d!” - The frantic father cried: - And to the hilt the vengeful sword, - He plunged in Gelert’s side. - - His suppliant, as to earth he fell, - No pity could impart; - But still his Gelert’s dying yell - Past heavy o’er his heart. - - Aroused by Gelert’s dying yell, - Some slumberer waken’d nigh: - What words the parent’s joy can tell, - To hear his infant cry! - - Conceal’d between a mingled heap, - His hurried search had miss’d; - All glowing from his rosy sleep, - His cherub boy he kiss’d! - - Nor scratch had he, nor harm, nor dread, - But the same couch beneath - Lay a great wolf, all torn, and dead, - Tremendous still in death! - - Ah! what was then Llewelyn’s pain! - For now the truth was clear; - The gallant hound the wolf had slain, - To save Llewelyn’s heir. - - Vain, vain was all Llewelyn’s woe; - “Best of thy kind, adieu! - The frantic deed which laid thee low, - This heart shall ever rue!” - - And now a gallant tomb they raise, - With costly sculpture deckt; - And marbles storied with his praise - Poor Gelert’s bones protect. - - Here never could the spearman pass, - Or forester unmoved; - Here oft the tear-besprinkled grass, - Llewelyn’s sorrow proved. - - And here he hung his horn and spear, - And oft as evening fell, - In fancy’s piercing sounds would hear - Poor Gelert’s dying yell! - - And till great Snowdon’s rocks grow old, - And cease the storm to brave, - The consecrated spot shall hold - The name of Gelert’s grave. - -Since the author’s first visit, much has been added to the picturesque -scenery of Beddgelert, through the liberal and patriotic spirit of Thomas -Jones of Boyntirion, Esq. the worthy proprietor of this romantic vale. A -most excellent inn has been erected, and no expense spared in rendering -the accommodations for the tourist and the traveller the most attractive, -as well as the most comfortable. It is worthy of remark, that this spot -was selected by the monks as favourable to the desponding gloom of popish -superstition. The parish church, which is situated within a few hundred -yards of this inn, was formerly a part of a priory of Augustine monks, -founded by Anion, Bishop of Bangor, in the thirteenth century; and -supposed by some to be the oldest religious house in Wales. Part of the -cloisters still remain. The monastery was destroyed by fire during the -reign of Edward the First. The present appearance of the vale is, -however, calculated to produce sensations of a very different -description, and presents objects the most alluring to the lovers of -mountain scenery. The tourist, whether he be a poet, a philosopher, or -an antiquary, will here find abundant sources of recreation to detain him -for some days. Within the distance of an hour’s walk from the inn, are -situated - - - -THE VALE OF NANHWYNAN, - - -beautifully diversified by thriving plantations, and elegant villas. In -this vale stands Diras Envys, or the Castle of Ambrosius, to which -Vortigern is said to have fled for refuge, after having called in the -Saxons; by which he for some time, avoided the odium and persecution of -his countrymen. - - - -THE PASS OF DRWSYCOED, - - -commanding a most splendid view of the lakes of Nanlley including the -floating island, mentioned by Camden, the sea being also visible at a -distance. Here King Edward is said to have encamped his army in his last -expedition into Wales, when he completed the subjugation of the country. - -Beddgelert is now a thoroughfare, with a good road from Caernarvon to -Dolgelly, Welsh Pool, Shrewsbury, Bishop’s Castle, Ludlow, and Worcester; -it is therefore a most convenient station from whence to make excursions -to some of the most interesting scenery in North Wales, among the first -of which is the ascent of the mighty and once wood-covered Snowdon. - -How often has the idea of this stupendous mountain filled my heart with -enthusiastic rapture! Every time I cast my eyes on that solemn, that -majestic vision, it is not without the most powerful emotion; it excites -that tender melancholy, which exalts rather than depresses the mind! How -delightful to bid adieu to all the cares and occupations of the world, -for the reflection of those scenes of sublimity and grandeur, which form -such a contrast to the transientness of sublunary greatness! With what -anxiety have we watched the setting sun, loitering just below the -horizon, and illuminating the highest summit of Snowdon with a golden -tinge; and we still watch the passing clouds of night, fearing lest the -morning should prove unfavourable for our Alpine excursion! - - - -SNOWDON. - - -We engaged the miner {158a} as our conductor over the mountain, who -entertained us much with displaying, in strong colours, the tricks and -impositions of his brother guides. {158b} - -At half-past twelve, we started from our inn, determined to see the sun -rise from its highest summit. The night was now very dark, and we could -just discover, that the top of Snowdon was entirely enveloped in a thick -impenetrable mist: this unpropitious omen staggered our resolutions; and -we for some time hesitated respecting our farther progress; but our guide -assuring us that his comfortable cottage was not far distant, we again -plucked up resolution; and, quitting the high way about two miles on the -Caernarvon road, we turned to the right, through a boggy, unpleasant -land, and in danger of losing our shoes every step we took. This soon -brought us to the comfortable cot, the filth and dirtiness of which can -better be imagined than described; a worm-eaten bed, two small stools, -and table fixed to the wall, composed the whole of his furniture; two -fighting-cocks were perched on a beam, which Thomas seemed to pride -himself in the possession of: the smoke of the fire ascended through a -small hole in the roof of this comfortable mansion, the door of which did -not appear proof against the “churlish chiding of the winter blast.” - -Such, indeed, was the situation of this Cambrian mountaineer: and, -though, in our own opinion, misery, poverty, and dirt personified, seemed -to be the real inhabitants of this cottage, yet there was something -prepossessing in his character; for frequently, with the greatest -vehemence imaginable, and in the true style of an anchorite, he declared, -that, “though he boasted not riches, yet he boasted of independence; and -though he possessed not wealth, yet he possessed the home of happiness, -an honest breast.” - -The morning appearing to wear a more favourable aspect, we again sallied -forth; the bogs, however, still rendered it extremely unpleasant. But -this inconvenience was only temporary; we soon came to a part of the -mountain entirely composed of loose stones and fragments of rock, which -affording only a very treacherous footing, you are liable to perpetual -falls. The mountain now became much steeper, the path less rocky, and -our mountaineer, the higher we proceeded, more induced to exhibit feats -of his agility, by occasionally running down a short precipice, and then, -by a loud shout of vociferation, shewing us the obedience of the sheep, -who instantaneously flocked around him at the sound of his voice: it is -singular, the caution implanted in this animal, by instinct, for the -mutual protection of each other; from the liberty they enjoy, they seldom -congregate in one flock, but are generally discovered grazing in parties -from six to a dozen, one of which is regularly appointed centinel, to -watch the motions of their inveterate enemies (foxes and birds of prey), -which infest this mountain. A wider expanse of the hemisphere disclosed -itself, and every object below us gradually diminished as we ascended. -The freshness of the mountain whetted our appetites; and our conductor, -with very little persuasion, soon influenced us to open our little basket -of provisions. The sun, the “rich hair’d youth of morn,” was just -peeping from his bed; and having refreshed ourselves, with eager -impatience, we again climbed the rugged precipice; for we had still a -considerable height to ascend. We now passed several steep declivities -by a narrow path not more than three yards wide, with a dreadful -perpendicular on each side, the sight of which almost turned us giddy. -As we were passing this hazardous path, a thick mist enveloped us, and an -impenetrable abyss appeared on both sides; the effect, indeed, can -scarcely be conceived; our footing to us, puisne mountaineers, seemed -very insecure; and a total destruction would have been the consequence of -one false step. The air grew intensely cold, and, by our guide’s -recommendation, we a second time produced our pistol of rum, diluted with -milk; but this cordial must be used with caution, as a very small -quantity of strong liquor affects the head, owing to the rarefaction of -the air. On our reaching the summit, all our difficulties were -forgotten, and our imaginary complaints overborne with exclamations of -wonder, surprise, and admiration. The light, thin, misty cloud, which -had for some time enveloped us, as if by enchantment, suddenly dispersed; -the whole ocean appeared illuminated by a fiery substance, and all the -subject hills below us, for they resembled mole-hills, were gradually -tinged by the rich glow of the sun; whose orb becoming at length -distinctly visible, displayed the whole island of Anglesea so distinctly, -that we descried, as in a map, its flat and uncultivated plains, bounded -by the rich and inexhaustible Paris mountains, in the vicinity of -Holyhead. The point on which we were standing did not exceed a square of -five yards, and we sickened almost at the sight of the steep precipices -which environed us; round it is a small parapet, formed by the customary -tribute of all strangers, who visit this summit, and to which we likewise -contributed, by placing a large stone on its top; this parapet, indeed, -sheltered us from the chilly cold, and protected us from the piercing -wind, which this height must naturally be exposed to. - -We remained in this situation for a considerable time, and endeavoured, -without success, to enumerate the several lakes, forests, woods, and -counties, which were exposed to us in one view; but lost and confounded -with the innumerable objects worthy of admiration, and regardless of the -chilling cold, we took a distinct survey of the Isle of Man, together -with a faint prospect of the Highlands in Ireland, which appeared just -visibly skirting the distant horizon; but another object soon engrossed -all our attention: - - “The wide, the unbounded prospect lay before us; - But shadows, clouds, and darkness, rest upon it:” - -For we unexpectedly observed long billows of vapour tossing about, half -way down the mountain, totally excluding the country below, and -occasionally dispersing, and partially revealing, its features; while -above, the azure expanse of the heavens remained unobscured by the -thinnest mist. This, however, was of no long continuance: a thick cloud -presently wet us through; and the point on which we were standing could -alone be distinguished. As there appeared little or no chance of the -clouds dispersing, we soon commenced our descent. Respecting this Alpine -excursion, suffice it to say, that though our expectations were raised -exceedingly high, it infinitely surpassed all conception, and baffled all -description; for no colour of language can paint the grandeur of the -rising sun, observed from this eminence, or describe the lakes, woods, -and forests, which are extended before you; for description, though it -enumerates their names, yet it cannot draw the elegance of outline, -cannot give the effect of precipices, or delineate the minute features, -which reward the actual observer, at every new choice of his position; -and, by changing their colour and form in his gradual ascent, till at -last every object dwindles into atoms: in short, this interesting -excursion, which comprehends every thing that is awful, grand, and -sublime, producing the most pleasing sensations, has left traces in the -memory which the imagination will ever hold dear. - -The view from the summit of Snowdon is thus described by the author of -the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature. - - “After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak - of Snowdon, the height of which is 3571 feet above the level of the - Irish Sea. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself, - magnificent beyond the powers of language! Indeed language is - indigent and impotent, when it would presume to sketch scenes, on - which the Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight. - Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa! - Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, Genius of Thomson, - Virgil, and Lucretius! - - “From this point are seen more than five and twenty lakes. Seated on - one of the crags, it was long before the eye, unaccustomed to measure - such elevations, could accommodate itself to scenes so admirable:—the - whole appearing, as if there had been a war of the elements; and as - if we were the only inhabitants of the globe, permitted to - contemplate the ruins of the world. Rocks and mountains, which, when - observed from below, bear all the evidences of sublimity, when viewed - from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, as - rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole resembling the - swellings of an agitated ocean. - - “The extent of this prospect appears almost unlimited. The four - kingdoms are seen at once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! - forming the finest panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins - with the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of - Ingleborough and Penygent, in the county of York, and the hills of - Lancashire forefollow: then are observed the counties of Chester, - Flint, Denbigh, and a portion of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole - of Merioneth succeeds; and drawing a line with the eye along the - diameter of the circle, we take in the regions, stretching from the - triple crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds David, - and Llewelyn. Snowdon rising in the centre appears, as if he could - touch the south with his right hand, and the north with his left. - ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cæsar sat upon these crags, when he - formed the daring conception of governing the world!’ - - “From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the bold - geographical outline, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes - for a while on the summit of the Rivel. After observing the indented - shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels over a long line of ocean, - till, in the extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow - terminate the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the - coast, till they are lost to the eye; which ranging along the - expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, repose on the Island of - Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space - is occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, - masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea, - with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion. A - scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison - to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment and the - transport of admiration seem to contend for the mastery; and nerves - are touched, that never thrilled before. We seem as if our former - existence were annihilated; and as if a new epoch were commenced. - Another world opens upon us; and an unlimited orbit appears to - display itself, as a theatre for our ambition.” - -The first two miles of our descent we by no means found difficult, but -wishing to take a minute survey of the picturesque Pass of Llanberris, we -changed the route generally prescribed to strangers, and descended a -rugged and almost perpendicular path, in opposition to the proposals of -our guide, who strenuously endeavoured to dissuade us from the attempt; -alleging the difficulty of the steep, and relating a melancholy story of -a gentleman, who many years back had broken his leg. This had no effect: -we determined to proceed; and the vale of Llanberris amply rewarded us -for the trouble. - -Mr. Williams of Llandigai, in his observations on the Snowdon mountains -(which, from his having been a resident on the spot, may be considered as -entitled to the greatest credit,) makes the following remarks on the -probable derivation of their names, and the customs and manners of their -inhabitants. - -“It would be endless to point out the absurd conjectures and -misrepresentations of those who have of late years undertaken to describe -this country. Some give manifestly wrong interpretations of the names of -places, and others, either ignorantly or maliciously, have as it were -caricatured its inhabitants. Travellers from England, often from want of -candour, and always from defect of necessary knowledge, impose upon the -world unfavourable as well as false accounts of their fellow-subjects in -Wales; yet the candour of the Welsh is such, that they readily ascribe -such misrepresentations to an ignorance of their language, and a -misconception of the honest, though perhaps warm temper of those that -speak it. And it may be, travellers are too apt to abuse the Welsh, -because they cannot or will not speak English. _Their ignorance ought -not to incur disgust_: _their reluctance proceeds not from stubbornness_, -_but from diffidence_, _and the fear of ridicule_. - - - -“NATIVES OF ERYRI. - - -“The inhabitants of the British mountains are so humane and hospitable, -that a stranger may travel amongst them without incurring any expense for -diet or lodging. Their fare an Englishman may call coarse; however, they -commonly in farm-houses have three sorts of bread, namely, wheat, barley, -and oatmeal; but the oatmeal they chiefly use; this, with milk, butter, -cheese, and potatoes, is their chief summer food. They have also plenty -of excellent trout, which they eat in its season. And for the winter -they have dry salted beef, mutton, and smoked rock venison, which they -call _Côch ar Wyden_, i.e. _The Red upon the Withe_, being hung by a -withe, made of a willow or hazel twig. They very seldom brew ale, except -in some of the principal farm-houses: having no corn of their own -growing, they think it a superfluous expense to throw away money for malt -and hops, when milk, or butter-milk mixed with water, quenches the thirst -as well. - -“They are hardy and very active; but they have not the perseverance and -resolution which are necessary for laborious or continued undertakings, -being, from their infancy, accustomed only to ramble over the hills after -their cattle. In summer they go barefoot, but seldom barelegged, as has -been lately asserted by a traveller. They are shrewd and crafty in their -bargains, and jocular in their conversation; very sober, and great -economists; though a late tourist has given them a different character. -Their greetings, when they meet any one of their acquaintance, may to -some appear tedious and disagreeable: their common mode of salutation is -‘How is thy heart? how the good wife at home, the children, and the rest -of the family?’ and that often repeated. When they meet at a public -house, they will drink each other’s health, or the health of him to whom -the mug goes at every round. They are remarkably honest. - -“Their courtships, marriages, &c. differ in nothing from what is -practised on these occasions among the lowlanders or other Welsh people; -but as there are some distinct and local customs in use in North Wales, -not adopted in other parts of Great Britain, I shall, by way of novelty, -relate a few of them:—When Cupid lets fly his shaft at a youthful heart, -the wounded swain seeks for an opportunity to have a private conversation -with the object of his passion, which is usually obtained at a fair, or -at some other public meeting; where he, if bold enough, accosts her, and -treats her with wine and cakes. But he that is too bashful will employ a -friend to break the ice for him, and disclose the sentiments of his -heart: the fair one, however, disdains proxies of this kind, and he that -is bold, forward, and facetious, has a greater chance of prevailing; -especially if he has courage enough to steal a few kisses: she will then -probably engage to accept of his nocturnal visit the next Saturday night. -When the happy hour arrives, neither the darkness of the night, the -badness of the weather, nor the distance of the place, will discourage -him, so as to abandon his engagement. When he reaches the spot, he -conceals himself in some out-building, till the family go to rest. His -fair friend alone knows of and awaits his coming. After admittance into -the house a little chat takes place at the fireside, and then, if every -thing is friendly, they agree to throw themselves on a bed, if there is -an empty one in the house; when Strephon takes off his shoes and coat, -and Phillis only her shoes; and covering themselves with a blanket or -two, they chat there till the morning dawn, and then the lover steals -away as privately as he came. And this is the bundling or _courting in -bed_, {168} for which the Welsh are so much bantered by strangers. - -“This courtship often lasts for years, ere the swain can prevail upon his -mistress to accept of his hand. Now and then a pregnancy precedes -marriage; but very seldom, or never, before a mutual promise of entering -into the marriage state is made. When a matrimonial contract is thus -entered into, the parents and friends of each party are apprised of it, -and an invitation to the wedding takes place; where, at the appointed -wedding-day, every guest that dines drops his shilling, besides payment -for what he drinks: the company very often amounts to two or three -hundred, and sometimes more. This donation is intended to assist the -young couple to buy bed-clothes, and other articles necessary to begin -the world. Nor does the friendly bounty stop here: when the woman is -brought to bed, the neighbours meet at the christening, out of free -good-will, without invitation, where they drop their money; usually a -shilling to the woman in the straw, sixpence to the midwife, and sixpence -to the cook; more or less, according to the ability and generosity of the -giver. - - - -“MODE OF BURYING. - - -“When the parish-bell announces the death of a person, it is immediately -inquired upon what day the funeral is to be; and on the night preceding -that day, all the neighbours assemble at the house where the corpse is, -which they call Ty Corph, i.e. ‘the corpse’s house.’ The coffin, with -the remains of the deceased, is then placed on the stools, in an open -part of the house, covered with black cloth; or, if the deceased was -unmarried, with a clean white sheet, with three candles burning on it. -Every person on entering the house falls devoutly on his knees before the -corpse, and repeats to himself the Lord’s prayer, or any other prayer -that he chooses. Afterwards, if he is a smoker, a pipe and tobacco are -offered to him. This meeting is called Gwylnos, and in some places -Pydreua. The first word means Vigil; the other is, no doubt, a corrupt -word from Paderau, or Padereuau, that is, Paters, or Paternosters. When -the assembly is full, the parish-clerk reads the common service appointed -for the burial of the dead: at the conclusion of which, psalms, hymns, -and other godly songs are sung; and since Methodism is become so -universal, some one stands up and delivers an oration on the melancholy -subject, and then the company drop away by degrees. On the following day -the interment takes place, between two and four o’clock in the afternoon, -when all the neighbours assemble again. It is not uncommon to see on -such occasions an assembly of three or four hundred people, or even more. -These persons are all treated with warm spiced ale, cakes, pipes and -tobacco; and a dinner is given to all those that come from far: I mean, -that such an entertainment is given at the funerals of respectable -farmers. {170a} They then proceed to the church; and at the end of that -part of the burial service, which is usually read in the church, before -the corpse is taken from the church, every one of the congregation -presents the officiating minister with a piece of money; the deceased’s -next relations usually drop a shilling each, others sixpence, and the -poorer sort a penny a-piece, laying it on the altar. This is called -offering, and the sum amounts sometimes to eight, ten, or more pounds at -a burial. The parish-clerk has also his offering at the grave, which -amounts commonly to about one-fourth of what the clergyman received. -After the burial is over the company retire to the public-house, where -every one spends his sixpence for ale; {170b} then all ceremonies are -over.”—Mr. W. then proceeds to explain the good and ill resulting from -the prevalence of Methodism, and those fanatics termed Ranters, &c., and -states, that “the mountain-people preserve themselves, in a great -measure, a distinct race from the lowlanders: they but very seldom come -down to the lowlands for wives; nor will the lowlander often climb up the -craggy steeps, and bring down a mountain spouse to his cot. Their -occupations are different, and it requires that their mates should be -qualified for such different modes of living. - -“I will not scruple to affirm, that these people have no strange blood in -their veins,—that they are the true offspring of the ancient Britons: -they, and their ancestors, from time immemorial, have inhabited the same -districts, and, in one degree or other, they are all relations.” - -The vale of Llanberris is bounded by the steep precipices of Snowdon, and -two large lakes, communicating by a river. It was formerly a large -forest, but the woods are now entirely cut down. We here dismissed our -Cambrian mountaineer, and easily found our way to Dolbadern (pronounced -Dolbathern) Castle, situated between the two lakes, and now reduced to -one circular tower, thirty feet in diameter, with the foundations of the -exterior buildings completely in ruins: in this, Owen Gôch, brother to -Llewellin, last prince, was confined in prison. This tower appears to -have been the keep or citadel, about ninety feet in height, with a -vaulted dungeon. At the extremity of the lower lake are the remains of a -British fortification, called Caer cwm y Glô: and about half a mile from -the castle, to the south, at the termination of a deep glen, is a -waterfall, called Caunant Mawr; it rushes over a ledge of rocks upwards -of twenty yards in height, falls some distance in an uninterrupted sheet, -and then dashes with a tremendous roar through the impeding fragments of -the rock, till it reaches the more quiet level of the vale. Returning to -the lakes, you have a fine view of the ruins, with the promontory on -which they are situated; and that with greatly heightened effect, if -favoured by their reflection on the glassy surface of the waters, to -which you add the rocky heights on each side; Llanberris church, -relieving the mountain scenery, and the roughest and most rugged cliffs -of Snowdon in the back-ground topping the whole, which give together a -grand and pleasing coup d’œil. - -In this vicinity are large slate quarries, the property of Thomas Asheton -Smith, Esq.; and a rich vein of copper ore. These afford employ to great -numbers of industrious poor: to the men, in obtaining the ore and slates, -and the women and children in breaking, separating, and preparing the -different sorts for exportation, or for undergoing farther preparatory -processes to fit them for smelting. From hence a rugged horse-path -brought us to the Caernarvon turnpike-road, about six miles distant; the -high towers of the castle, the very crown and paragon of the landscape, -at last pointed out the situation of - - - -CAERNARVON; - - -and having crossed a handsome modern stone bridge thrown over the river -Seiont, and built by “Harry Parry, the modern Inigo, A.D. 1791,” we soon -entered this ancient town, very much fatigued from our long excursion. - -The town of Caernarvon, beautifully situated and regularly built, is in -the form of a square, enclosed on three sides with thick stone walls; and -on the south side defended by the Castle. - -The towers are extremely elegant; but not being entwined with ivy, do not -wear that picturesque appearance which castles generally possess. Over -the principal entrance, which leads into an oblong court, is seated, -beneath a great tower, the statue of the founder, holding in his left -hand a dagger; this gateway was originally fortified with four -portcullises. At the west end, the eagle tower, remarkably light and -beautiful, in a polygon form; three small hexagon turrets rising from the -middle, with eagles placed on their battlements; from thence it derives -its name. In a little dark room {173a} in this tower, measuring eleven -feet by seven, was born King Edward II. April 25, 1284. The thickness of -the wall is about ten feet. To the top of the tower we reckoned one -hundred and fifty-eight steps; from whence an extensive view of the -adjacent country is seen to great advantage. On the south are three -octagonal towers, with small turrets, with similar ones on the north. -All these towers communicate with each other by a gallery, both on the -ground, middle, and upper floor, formed within the immense thickness of -the walls, in which are cut narrow slips, at convenient distances, for -the discharge of arrows. - -This building, founded on a rock, is the work of King Edward I., the -conqueror of the principality; the form of it is a long irregular square, -enclosing an area of about two acres and a half. From the information of -the Sebright manuscript, Mr. Pennant says, that, by the united efforts of -the peasants, it was erected within the space of one year. - -Having spent near three hours in surveying one of the noblest castles in -Wales, we walked round the environs of the town. The terrace {173b} -round the castle wall, when in existence, was exceedingly pleasing, being -in front of the Menai, which is here upwards of a mile in breadth, -forming a safe harbour, and is generally crowded with vessels, exhibiting -a picture of national industry; whilst near it a commodious quay presents -an ever-bustling scene, from whence a considerable quantity of slate, and -likewise copper, from the Llanberris mine, is shipped for different parts -of the kingdom. - -Caernarvon may certainly be considered as one of the handsomest and -largest towns in North Wales; and under the patronage of Lord Uxbridge -promises to become still more populous and extensive. - -In Bangor-street, is the Uxbridge Arms hotel, a large and most -respectable inn; where, as well as at the Goat, the charges are moderate -and the accommodations excellent. - -Caernarvon is only a township and chapelry to Llanbeblic. Its market is -on a Saturday, which is well supplied and reasonable; and with the -spirited improvements made to the town and harbour, has been the means of -greatly increasing its population: according to the late returns it -contains 1008 houses, and 6000 inhabitants. The church, or rather -chapel, has been rebuilt by subscription. Service is performed here in -English, and at the mother church at Llanbeblic {174} in Welsh. - -The Port, although the Aber sand-banks forming a dangerous bar, must ever -be a great drawback upon it, has not only been wonderfully improved, but -is in that progressive state of improvement by the modern mode of -throwing out piers, that vessels can now, of considerable tonnage, lie -alongside the quay, and discharge or take in their cargoes in perfect -safety; this bids fair, as may be seen by the rapid increase of its -population and tonnage, to make it a place of trade and considerable -resort: yet still it only ranks as a creek, and its custom-house is made -dependent on that of the haven of Beaumaris; to the comptroller of which -its officer is obliged to report: this must be a considerable hindrance -to its trade, particularly in matters out of the customary routine. The -county hall, which is near the castle, is a low building, but -sufficiently commodious within to hold with convenience the great -sessions. Caernarvon possessed such great favour with Edward the 1st. as -to have the first royal charter granted in Wales given to it. It is by -that constituted a free borough: it has one alderman, one deputy mayor, -two bailiffs, a town-clerk, two serjeants-at-mace, and a mayor; who, for -the time, is governor of the castle, and is allowed 200_l._ per annum to -keep it in repair; it, jointly with Conway, Nevin, Criccaeth, and -Pwllheli, sends a member to parliament; for the return of whom, every -inhabitant, resident or non-resident, who has been admitted to the -freedom of the place, possesses a vote. - -It is allowed to have a prison for petty offences independent of the -sheriff. Its burgesses likewise were exempt throughout the kingdom from -tollage, lastage, passage, murage, pontage, and all other impositions of -whatever kind, with other privileges, too numerous to insert. - -The county prison is likewise near the castle. It was erected in the -year 1794. The new market-house, containing the butchers’ shambles, &c. -is a well-contrived and convenient building, affording good storage for -corn and other articles left unsold. - -The site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about half a mile -south of the present one, will be found worthy the attention of the -traveller; it was the only Roman station of note in this part of Cambria, -on which a long chain of minor forts and posts were dependent. It is -even maintained, and that by respectable authorities, that it was not -only the residence, but burial-place of Constantius, father of -Constantine the Great; but most probably this arises from confusing -Helena, the daughter of Octavius, duke of Cornwall, who was born at -Segontium, and married to Maximus, first cousin of Constantine, with -Helena his mother, whom these authorities assert to have been the -daughter of a British king. A chapel, said to have been founded by -Helen, and a well which bears her name, are amongst the ruins still -pointed out. - -Since the numerous late improvements have been going forward, at and near -Caernarvon, new and interesting lights have been thrown on the ruins in -its vicinity, which will form a rich treat to the antiquary. - -Near the banks of the Seint, from which Segontium took its name, and -which runs from the lower lake of Llanberris, are the remains of a fort, -which appears to have been calculated to cover a landing-place from the -river at the time of high-water: it is of an oblong shape, and includes -an area of about an acre; one of the walls which is now standing is about -seventy-four yards, and the other sixty-four yards long, in height from -ten to twelve feet, and nearly six feet in thickness. The peculiar plan -of the Roman masonry is here particularly discernible, exhibiting -alternate layers, the one regular, the other zig-zag; on these their -fluid mortar was poured, which insinuated itself into all the -interstices, and set so strong as to form the whole into one solid mass; -retaining its texture even to the present day, to such a degree, that the -bricks and stone in the Roman walls yield as easy as the cement. - -English history has spoken so fully on this place, as connected with -Edward the 1st., on the title, which he, from his son being born in this -castle, so artfully claimed for him, and the future heirs apparent to the -British throne, as affording to the Welsh a prince of their own, -agreeable to their wishes, and the quiet annexation of the principality -to his dominions, which Edward by this means obtained, that it appears -superfluous to enlarge upon it in this work. - -Several excursions may be made from Caernarvon, with great satisfaction -to the tourist; the principal of which is a visit to - - - -PLAS-NEWYDD, - - -the elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, situated in the Isle of -Anglesey, and distant about six miles from Caernarvon: if the wind and -tide prove favourable, the picturesque scenery of the Menai will be -viewed to great advantage by hiring a boat at the quay. {178} But if -this most advisable plan should not be approved of, the walk to the -Moel-y-don ferry, about five miles on the Bangor road, will prove highly -gratifying: the Menai, whose banks are studded with gentlemen’s seats, -appearing scarcely visible between the rich foliage of the oak, which -luxuriates to the water’s brink, is filled with vessels, whose shining -sails, fluttering in the wind, attract and delight the observing eye; -whilst the voice of the sailors, exchanging some salute with the passing -vessel, is gently wafted on the breeze. - -Crossing the ferry, we soon reached the ancient residence of the -arch-druid of Britain, where was formerly stationed the most celebrated -of the ancient British academies: from this circumstance, many places in -this island still retain their original appellation, as Myfyrim, the -place of studies: Caer Idris, the city of astronomy; Cerrig Boudin, the -astronomer’s circle. The shore to the right soon brought us to the -plantations of Plâs-Newydd, consisting chiefly of the most venerable -oaks, and noblest ash in this part of the country: - - . . . “Superior to the pow’r - Of all the warring winds of heaven they rise; - And from the stormy promontory tower, - And toss their giant arms amid the skies; - While each assailing blast increasing strength supplies.” - - BEATTIE’S MINSTREL. - -Beneath their “broad brown branches,” we discovered several cromlechs, -the monuments of Druidical superstition; several stones of enormous size -support two others placed horizontally over them. {179} For what purpose -these ancient relics were originally erected, it is not for us puisne -antiquarians to discuss; and with eager impatience we hurried to visit -the noble mansion, which has not yet received the finishing stroke of the -architect; sufficient, however, is accomplished to form a conjecture of -its intended splendour and magnificence. The whole is built, stables -included, in a gothic castellated form, of a dark slate-coloured stone: -on entering the vestibule, we, for a short time, imagined ourselves in -the chapel, a mistake, though soon discovered, to which every visitor is -liable; the ceiling having gothic arches, with a gallery suitable to it, -and several niches cut in the side walls: we were next conducted through -a long suite of apartments, the design of them all equally convenient and -elegant. The landscape from the Gothic windows is both beautiful and -sublime: a noble plantation of trees, the growth of ages; the winding -strait of the Menai, gay with vessels passing and repassing: and, beyond -this tranquil scene, the long range of the Snowdon mountains shooting -into the clouds, the various hues of whose features appear as beautiful -as their magnitude is sublime. The house is protected from the -encroachment of the sea, by a strong parapet embattled wall; in fine, -this magnificent seat of the gallant Marquis seems to possess many -conveniences peculiar to its situation: the warm and cold baths, -constantly filled by the Menai, are sequestered and commodious, and every -part of the house is abundantly supplied with water. - -Since the last edition of this work was published, this splendid -residence has been finished in a style corresponding to the promises it -held forth, and now ranks amongst the first in the principality. - -The park, though small, is well-wooded, and laid out with taste; and the -woods extending along the bold cliffs of the Menai, with the parapeted -bastion wall, which supports the terrace at the bottom of the lawn, cause -this elegant edifice, with its turrets and gilded vanes, surrounded by -its venerable groves, to be viewed to great advantage from the water or -opposite shore. The front is composed of a centre nearly semilunar, with -two wings semioctagonal; these receive a bold and happy finish from -octagonal turrets rising from the basement of each angle of the front and -wings, several feet above the embattled parapet, finishing in small -spires surmounted by gilt vanes. - -Behind the house are two of the largest cromlechs; the upper stone of one -is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, supported -by five upright ones; the other is close to the first, and is only about -five feet and a half square. - -Not far from these is a carnedd, part of which is destroyed; within was -found a cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered with two flat -stones. On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, for what -purpose intended I leave to others to determine; some conceive they were -places of confinement, and these holes served as stocks, in which to -secure the victims of the Druidical sacrifices; but let us rather hope -not; for as the learned of those days here for a period found a shelter, -and as these woods - - “Were tenanted by bards, who nightly thence, - Rob’d in their flowery vests of innocent white, - Issued with harps, that glitter to the moon, - Hymning immortal strains:” - - MASON’S CARACTACUS. - -we may as reasonably conceive that learning, poetry, music and religion, -would soothe and soften the angry passions of the soul, as that they -would rouse to the horrid immolation of human sacrifices. - -Being unavoidably prevented at this time from visiting the celebrated -Paris mountain, the property of the Marquis of Anglesea and the Rev. Mr. -Hughes, we again returned to the hotel at Caernarvon; purposing to stay -the following day (Sunday), for the purpose of making a strict enquiry -into the religious sect, settled here, and in many parts of Wales, called -Jumpers. {181} - -The account we had received from our landlord, we imagined was -exaggerated; and this more strongly induced us to visit the chapel, that -we might be enabled, in future, to contradict this ridiculous report. - -At six in the evening the congregation assembled; and, on our entrance -into the chapel, we observed on the north side, from a sort of stage or -pulpit, erected on the occasion, a man, in appearance a common -day-labourer, holding forth to an ignorant and deluded multitude. Our -entrance at first seemed to excite a general dissatisfaction; and our -near neighbours, as if conscious of their eccentricities, muttered bitter -complaints against the admittance of strangers. The chapel, which was -not divided into pews, and even destitute of seats, contained near a -hundred people: half way round was erected a gallery. The preacher -continued raving, and, indeed, foaming at the mouth, in a manner too -shocking to relate:—he allowed himself no time to breathe, but, seemingly -intoxicated, uttered the most dismal howls and groans imaginable, which -were answered by the congregation, so loud as occasionally to drown even -the voice of the preacher. At last, being nearly exhausted by continual -vociferation, and fainting from exertion, he sunk down in the pulpit. -The meeting, however, did not disperse: a psalm was immediately sung by a -man, who, we imagined, officiated as clerk, accompanied by the whole -congregation. The psalm had not continued long, before we observed part -of the assembly, to our great surprise, jumping in small parties of -three, four, and sometimes five in a set, lifting up their hands, beating -their breasts, and making the most horrid gesticulations. Each -individual separately jumped, regularly succeeding one another, while the -rest generally assisted the jumper by the help of their hands. The women -always appeared more vehement than the men, and infinitely surpassed them -in numbers; seeming to endeavour to excel each other in jumping, -screaming, and howling. We observed, indeed, that many of them lost -their shoes, hats, and bonnets, with the utmost indifference, and never -condescended to search after them; in this condition, it is not unusual -to meet them jumping to their homes. Their meetings are twice a week, -Wednesdays and Sundays. Having accidentally met with a gentleman, at the -hotel, a native of Siberia, we invited him to our party; and, induced by -curiosity, he readily accompanied us to the chapel. On the commencement -of the jumping, he entreated us to quit the congregation, exclaiming -“Good God! I for a moment forgot I was in a Christian country. The -dance of the Siberians, in the worship of the Lama, with their shouts and -gesticulations, is not more horrid!” This observation so forcibly struck -me, that I could not avoid inserting it in my note-book. - -With disgust we left the chapel, and were given to understand, by our -landlord, they celebrate a particular day every year, when instances have -been known of women dying by too great an exertion; and fainting is -frequently the consequence of their excessive jumping. - -This sect is by no means confined to the town of Caernarvon; but in many -villages, and several market towns, both in North and South Wales, they -have established regular chapels. “They have (says a correspondent to -the Gentleman’s Magazine) {183} periodical meetings in many of the larger -towns, to which they come from thirty to forty miles round. At one held -at Denbigh, about last April, there were, I believe, upwards of four -thousand people, from different parts. At another, held at Bala, soon -afterwards, nearly double that number were supposed to be present.” The -last number appears rather to be exaggerated, though the letter being -dated from Denbigh, should be considered as authoritative. - -Another correspondent to the Gentleman’s Magazine gives the following -information respecting the sect: “That they are not a distinct sect, but -Methodists, of the same persuasion as the late Mr. Whitfield; for though -there are several congregations of the Wesleyan Methodists in this -country, there is no such custom amongst them. But jumping during -religious worship is no new thing amongst the other party, having (by -what I can learn) been practised by them for many years past. I have -seen some of their pamphlets in the Welsh language, in which this custom -is justified by the example of David, who danced before the ark; and of -the lame man, restored by our blessed Saviour, at the gate of the temple, -who leaped for joy.” How far this gentleman’s account may be accurate, I -leave for others to decide: it is certainly to be lamented, in a country -where the Christian religion is preached in a style of the greatest -purity and simplicity, that these poor ignorant deluded wretches should -be led to a form of worship so dissonant to the established church of -England, and indeed by a poor ignorant fellow, devoid of education and -common sense. - -The same road we had so much admired the preceding Saturday soon brought -us to - - - -BANGOR, - - -the oldest episcopal see in Wales; being founded in 516. - -The situation is deeply secluded, “far from the bustle of a jarring -world,” and must have accorded well with monastic melancholy; for the -Monks, emerging from their retired cells, might here indulge in that -luxurious gloominess, which the prospect inspires, and which would soothe -the asperities inflicted upon them by the severe discipline of -superstition. The situation of Bangor appears more like a scene of airy -enchantment than reality; and the residences of the Canons are endeared -to the votaries of landscape by the prospect they command. On the -opposite shore, the town of Beaumaris was seen straggling up the steep -declivity, with its quay crowded with vessels, and all appeared bustle -and confusion; the contrast, which the nearer prospect inspired, was too -evident to escape our notice, where the - - “Oak, whose boughs were moss’d with age, - And high top bald with dry antiquity,” - -afforded a seat for the contemplation of the wide expanse of the ocean, -which is seen beyond the little island of Puffin, or Priestholm; so -called from the quantity of birds of that species, which resort here in -the summer months. - -The cathedral has been built at different times, but no part very -ancient; the church was burnt down by Owen Glendwr, in the reign of King -Henry IV.; the choir was afterwards built by Bishop Henry Dene, (or -Deane), between the years 1496 and 1500; the tower and nave by Bishop -Skevington, in 1532. The whole is Gothic architecture, with no other -particular ornament to distinguish it from a common English parish -church. There are, however, several bishops {185} buried in the choir. -I could dwell with pleasure on the picturesque beauties of this little -episcopal see; but a repetition of the same epithets, grand, beautiful, -sublime, fine, with a long catalogue, which must necessarily occur, would -appear tautologous on paper, though their archetypes in nature would -assume new colours at every change of position of the beholder. - -This bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian, -bishop of the diocese, in the reign of Edward the First; who being in -high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening -the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had, -as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of King -Henry the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of -the principality allotted to the see. - -Mr. Evans, in his valuable work, the Topography of North Wales, has -clearly refuted the improbable charge made against Bishop Bulkely, of -having sold the cathedral bells; and, on the contrary, proves from -documents, that the cathedral was indebted to him for considerable -repairs, and that likewise by his will he was a benefactor to it; this -falsehood, which originated with Godwin, in his Treatise, entitled “De -Presulibus,” as a piece of scandal against the church, met with but too -ready a belief from former tourists, whose false records, Mr. Evans -deserves great credit for refuting. - -Bangor is governed by the Bishop, whose steward holds the courts. From -being a quiet, retired place, it has now become a scene of commercial -bustle and activity, and is rapidly rising into an important town. The -opening of Lord Penrhyn’s slate quarries, and the great increase of -travelling through it since the union with Ireland, have been the great -causes of its increased and growing prosperity. From the convenience for -sea-bathing, the excellent new roads which branch from it in every -direction, the beauties of scenery which surround it on every side, its -proximity to many of the finest objects which Wales can boast of, and the -great interest which is excited in the suspended bridge over the Menai -Strait, it has become a place of fashionable resort; and during the -summer exhibits a scene of gaiety and cheerfulness, that forms a striking -contrast to its ancient monastic gloom. The tourist will find this a fit -spot for his head quarters, as he can branch out in various directions, -and each affords him ample scope for his sketch-book, or his -contemplation. - -Public baths are much wanted here; and it is to be hoped, that the spirit -of improvement, which has lately manifested itself in this neighbourhood, -will not rest till these are accomplished. - -The castle is said to have been built by Hugh, Earl of Chester, in the -reign of William the Second; it stood on a steep hill, on the south side -of Bangor, called Castle Bank, but there is not at this time a vestige -remaining. - -A pleasant walk leads to the Bangor Ferry Inn, delightfully situated, -overlooking the Straits of - - - -MENAI. - - -This Strait, which separates Anglesea from the main land, although -bearing only the appearance of a river, is an arm of the sea, and most -dangerous in its navigation at particular periods of the tide, and in -boisterous weather: during the flood, from the rush of water at each -extremity, it has a double current, the clash of which, termed Pwll -Ceris, it is highly rash and dangerous to encounter. In the space of -fifteen miles, there are six established ferries: the first of which to -the south is Abermenai, the next near Caernarvon, and three miles north -from the first is Tal y foel; four miles further, Moel y don; three miles -beyond which is the principal one, called Porthaethwy, but more generally -known as Bangor Ferry; it is the narrowest part of the Strait, and is -only about half a mile wide; this is the one over which the mails and -passengers pass on their route to and from Holyhead, and near which is -the bridge, of which a particular description and plan is for the first -time given; a mile further north is the fifth, Garth Ferry; and the -sixth, and widest ferry at high water, is between the village of Aber and -Beaumaris. Yet notwithstanding these ferries, the principal part of the -horned cattle that pass from Anglesea are compelled by their drivers to -swim over the passage at Bangor Ferry, to the terror and injury of the -animals, and the disgust and horror of the bystanders. - -There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected -with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near -Porthaeth-hwy; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly cross the channel, -and cause such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the -contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. -This isthmus once destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work -of ages, by the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and -enlarge the opening; as it appears by history, that both Roman and -British cavalry, at low water, during neap tides, forded or swam over the -Strait, and covered the landing of the infantry from flat-bottomed boats. - -The violent rush of water, and consequent inconvenience, delay, and -danger, when the wind and tide are unfavourable to the passage over -Bangor Ferry, in the present state of constant and rapid communication -with Ireland, gave rise to the idea of forming a bridge over the Menai. -Various estimates and plans were submitted to the public consideration by -our most celebrated engineers, and men of science; when, after numerous -delays, Mr. Telford’s design for one on the suspension principle was -adopted, and money granted by parliament for carrying it into effect. -The first stone of this magnificent structure was laid on the 10th of -August, 1819, without any ceremony, by the resident engineer, Mr. Provis, -and the contractors for the masonry. - -“When on entering the Straits,” {189} says a recent author, “the bridge -is first seen, suspended as it were in mid air, and confining the view of -the fertile and richly-wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament -than a massy bridge, and shows little of the strength and solidity which -it really possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still -retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size and -immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw that a brig, -with every stick standing, had just passed under it,—that a coach going -over appeared not larger than a child’s toy, and that foot-passengers -upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by -contrast fully apparent.” The whole surface of the bridge is in length -1,000 feet, of which the part immediately dependent upon the chains is -590 feet, the remaining distance being supported by seven arches, four on -one side and three on the other, which fill up the distance from the main -piers to the shore. These main piers rise above the level of the road 50 -feet, and through them, two archways, each 12 feet wide, admit a passage. -Over the top of these piers, four rows of chains, the extremities of -which are firmly secured in the rocks at each end of the bridge, are -thrown; two of them nearly in the centre, about four feet apart, and one -at each side. The floor of the road is formed of logs of wood, well -covered with pitch, and then strewn over with granite broken very small, -forming a solid body by its adhesion to the pitch impervious to the wet. -A light lattice work of wrought iron to the height of about six feet, -prevents the possibility of accidents by falling over, and allows a clear -view of the scenery on both sides, which can be seen to great advantage -from this height. Having expressed our admiration of the skill evident -in the construction, at once so simple and so useful, and having -satisfied our curiosity on the top, we descended by a precipitous path to -the level of the water, and gazed upwards with wonder, at the immense -flat surface above us, and its connecting gigantic arches. The road is -100 feet above high water, and the arches spring at the height of 60 feet -from abutments of solid masonry, with a span of 52 feet. These abutments -taper gradually from their base to where the arch commences, and immense -masses as they are, show no appearance of heaviness; indeed, taking the -whole of the Menai Bridge together, a more perfect union of beauty with -utility cannot be conceived. It has been erected to bear a weight upon -the chains of 2,000 tons; the whole weight at present imposed is only -500, leaving an available strength of 1,500 tons; so that there is an -easy remedy for a complaint which has been made of its too great -vibration in a gale of wind, by laying additional weight upon it. The -granite of which the piers and arches are built, is a species of marble, -admitting a very high polish; of this the peasantry in the neighbourhood -avail themselves, and every one has some specimen of polished marble -ready to offer the tourist. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and -elegance, in this grand work of art, that it harmonizes and accords -perfectly with the natural scenery around, and though itself an object of -admiration, still in connection it heightens the effect of the general -view. - - - -MONA, OR ANGLESEA, {191} - - -which forms one of the six counties of North Wales, was to that -principality what the island of Sicily was to Italy, its granary, and -chief dependence for subsistence; it was likewise the favourite spot, and -the last asylum of the Druids in Britain; it was to their venerable and -sacred groves, in this their last sanctuary, that they fled from Roman -tyranny; and it was here, around their altars, defenceless and -undefended, save by firebrands snatched from beneath the sacrifice, that -these venerable bigots fell, on the score of their religion, under the -murderous swords of Pagans, who, their means of attaining knowledge being -considered, were more ignorant than themselves. Neither have we a right, -on the bare testimony of these their bloody tyrannical persecutors, to -believe them to have been guilty of the horrid rites and human sacrifices -of which they are accused. In what portion of history do we find the -state, the hero, or the conqueror, wanting a good and sufficient reason -to cover the plea for conquest or aggression; and, above all, do we ever -find the Romans, throughout their history, wanting in such plea to cover -the basest of their actions? It was the religious stimulus by which the -Druids urged the Britons, even the females, to deeds of heroic madness, -to which the Romans owed the dear purchase in life and blood of their -British conquest; and which, whilst that stimulus existed, they were but -too well aware, must ever be insecure: no wonder then, that to cover the -inhumanity of a cold-blooded warfare of extermination against a -priesthood, that controlled and guided the energies of a daring people, -they should represent them in their bloody orgies as immolating human -victims: nay, most probably, even the accusation was founded in truth, -but grossly and wilfully misrepresented; for the ministers of religion -being, most probably, the administrators of justice, and sole keepers of -traditionary laws, the sacrifice of guilty culprits to such laws, to make -a deeper impression on the minds of hardy but superstitious barbarians, -was made a religious act. When we reflect on the late horrible -sacrifices that have been made in this country in the nineteenth century, -to its offended laws, and on those disgusting, though less dreadful -exhibitions, which are made so frequently, in a leading street of the -metropolis of Britain, that they, from their business-like, unceremonious -mode of execution, no longer deter from similar offences: and when we see -the culprits come forth attended by ministers of religion, who may appear -to uninformed by-standers to superintend the ceremony, as to the lot of -one of them it falls to give the fatal signal; we should reflect how such -a spectacle may be misrepresented by an Indian, a Chinese, or an -Esquimaux, and then judge with due candour of the religious rites and -actions of the Druids. - -Anglesea can no longer, with propriety, as it did of old, bear the title -of Ynys Dowyll, or the Shady Island; for those sacred groves, those -venerable oaks, which fell not under the harsh mandates of its Roman, -Saxon, or English invaders, have yielded to the hand of time, or the -avarice of man; and the late appearance of the island was unsheltered and -exposed, almost with the exception of the respected hallowed shades of -Plas-Newydd and Baron Hill; but numerous and thriving plantations are now -springing up, doing away with that sterile appearance; and the better and -more speedily to accomplish this desirable end, public nursery grounds -have been established in the centre of the island, to afford facilities -for, and to encourage planting. It has had the desired effect; and by an -improvement in smelting the ore, and extracting the sulphur from it, -vegetation is no longer injured, even where there is any soil on the -Parys Mountain. - -It was formerly divided into seven districts, or comots, but at present -its divisions are only six. It contains about two hundred thousand acres -of land; is in length, from north-west to south-east, about twenty miles; -in breadth, from north-east to south-west, about sixteen miles; and in -circumference, about seventy-six miles: has seventy-four parishes, and -four market towns, and is in the diocese of Bangor. The number of houses -are estimated at 7183; the inhabitants at 37,045. It sends two members -to parliament; one for the county, and one for Beaumaris. - -From its too great deficiency of wood, and live fences, the sterility of -the Parys Mountain and its vicinity, and the rocky appearance of the -soil, there was formerly no semblance of that exuberant fertility that -would allow this small partially cultivated island to export to the -extent it does, both in live stock and grain, viz. about 15,000 head of -black cattle, about 5000 hogs, great numbers of sheep, and nearly 4000 -quarters of corn, besides numerous other articles of produce and -manufacture. Its climate is more mild than that of Wales generally, but -it is at the same time subject to fogs and damp; the advantage and -disadvantage both attributable to the sea breezes. It is well watered by -numerous rivulets, and has abundance of harbours: among the first is that -well known and highly useful one of Holyhead, which has of late been -greatly improved: that of Beaumaris is likewise good, and capable of -carrying on considerable trade; besides these, there are the minor ones -of Red Wharf Bay, Dulas Bay, Amlwch, from which the copper ore, &c. -obtained from Parys Mountain is shipped, and which might be greatly -improved, Cemlyn, Aberfraw, &c.: most, or all of them, might, at a small -expense, be rendered still more safe and useful. Besides its exports in -corn and cattle, this small island carries on great trade in copper, -ochre, sulphur, mill-stones, lead, &c. &c. It likewise produces various -specimens of marble, (well known in London as Mona marbles) and amongst -others, the asbestos: it yields potters clay and fullers earth, as well -as coals, which are now worked in the neighbourhood of Llangafni. -Neither is the sea less bountiful than the land; affording a bill of fare -that would not disgrace the table of a London alderman. - -On account of the great thoroughfare which this island has become since -the Union, from the exertions made by government to afford safety and -facility in the forwarding the principal Irish mails and despatches, the -roads are kept in excellent order. - - - -BEAUMARIS, - - -the largest and best built town in Anglesea, is pleasantly situated on -the western shore of the bay of that name, and commands a fine view of -the sea and the Caernarvonshire mountains. Its original name was Porth -Wygyr. Its harbour is well sheltered, and affords ample protection for -coasters, and ships of considerable burthen, which, during northerly -winds, are driven there in great numbers, to avoid the dangers of a lee -shore. As no manufactures of consequence are carried on in its -neighbourhood, it is rather calculated for great retirement, than for -active bustle; but being the county town, it is now and then enlivened by -the gaieties attendant upon assizes, elections, and other public -meetings. - -The castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the estate of Lord -Bulkeley, close to the town, and covers a considerable space of ground; -but from its low situation it was always inferior in point of strength to -the castles of Conway and Caernarvon. - -Close above the town is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Warren -Bulkeley, delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly wooded bank, -and possessing a complete command of every object which can add to the -charms of picturesque scenery. The park extends to, and nearly -surrounds, the west and north sides of the town; whilst the rising -ground, upon which the mansion stands, shelters the town from the rude -blasts that would otherwise assail it; thus giving it that protection -from the raging of the elements which the noble owner ever affords to its -inhabitants, when sorrow and adversities assail their domestic peace. To -enumerate all the acts of Lord Bulkeley’s munificence and kindness would -be impossible, but a few of them may be seen in the neighbourhood of -Beaumaris. - -The beautiful road of four miles and a half, along the shore of the Menai -to Bangor Ferry, was made at the expense of Lord and Lady Bulkeley in -1804: it cost about £3000, and, when completed, was presented to the -public and has since been maintained at his lordship’s expense. A road -possessed of greater picturesque beauty is not to be found in Britain. - -The church is kept in repair by his lordship, to which he has presented -an excellent organ, a set of elegant communion plate, a clock, and a peal -of six fine toned bells; together, costing about £1200. He has also -given a good house to the rector for the time being. The national -school, as well as the minister’s house, was built by public -subscription, on land given by Lord Bulkeley; and the master’s and -mistress’s salaries have since been paid by him and his lady. - -Many more acts of their liberality might be enumerated, but these are -sufficient to prove them zealous protecting friends, and kind neighbours. -Their numerous deeds of private charity ought not to be blazoned to the -world, but they will live long in the grateful remembrance of those -around them. - -Beaumaris, situated 249 miles from London, had, in 1811, 249 houses, and -1,810 inhabitants; and in 1821 a population of 2,205. It is governed by -a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four capital burgesses, and -several inferior officers. It formerly possessed an extensive trade; but -has declined since the rise of Liverpool. - -From Beaumaris we proceeded, by Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, to Amlwch; the -distance is about sixteen miles, through a pleasant country, in parts -greatly resembling England. About a mile from Red Wharf Bay you pass the -village of Pentraeth, _The End of the Sands_. The situation is pleasant; -and Mr. Grose was so taken with the picturesque beauty of its small -church, as to give a view of it in his Antiquities. - -Near this, in a field at Plâs Gwynn, the seat of the Panton family, are -two stones, placed, as tradition says, to mark the bounds of an -astonishing leap; which obtained for the active performer of it the wife -of his choice; but it appears, that as he leaped into her affections with -difficulty, he ran away from them with ease; for going to a distant part -of the country, where he had occasion to reside several years, he found, -on his return, that his wife had, on that very morning, been married to -another person. Einson, on hearing this, took his harp, and, sitting -down at the door, explained in Welsh metre who he was, and where he had -been resident. His wife narrowly scrutinized his person, unwilling to -give up her new spouse, when he exclaimed: - - Look not, Angharad, on my silver hair, - Which once shone bright of golden lively hue: - Man does not last like gold:—he that was fair - Will soon decay, though gold continue new. - - If I have lost Angharad, lovely fair! - The gift of brave Ednyfed, and my spouse, - All I’ve not lost, (all must from hence repair) - Nor bed, nor harp, nor yet my ancient house. - - I once have leap’d to show my active power, - A leap which none could equal or exceed, - The leap in Aber Nowydd, which thou, fair flower! - Didst once so much admire, thyself the meed. - - Full fifty feet, as still the truth is known, - And many witnesses can still attest; - How there the prize I won, thyself must own: - This action stamp’d my worth within thy breast. - - BINGLEY’S NORTH WALES. - -At Llanfair, which is about a mile distant from this road, was born the -celebrated scholar and poet, Goronwy Owen, who, notwithstanding his -acknowledged and admired abilities, was, after a series of hardships and -struggles, obliged to expatriate himself to the wilds of Virginia, where -he was appointed pastor of the Church. He was well versed in the Latin, -Greek, and oriental languages, was a skilful antiquary, and an excellent -poet. His Latin odes are greatly admired; but his Welsh poems rank him -among the most distinguished bards of his country. - -About five miles west of Beaumaris is Peny-mynydd, the birth-place of -Owen Tudor, a private gentleman, who, having married Catherine of France, -the Dowager of our Henry V., in 1428, became the ancestor of a line of -monarchs. They had three sons and one daughter. The daughter died in -her infancy: Edmund was created Earl of Richmond, and marrying a daughter -of the Duke of Somerset, had Henry, afterwards Henry VII. Jasper was -created Earl of Pembroke; and Owen became a monk. By means of his -marriage, therefore, Owen Tudor not only became father to a line of -kings; but in his son, as Gray says, Wales came to be governed again by -their own princes. - -The Tudor family became extinct in Richmond Tudor, who died in 1657, and -the estate belongs to Lord Bulkeley. In the Church is one of their -monuments, removed from Lanvaes Abbey at its dissolution. - - - -LLANELIAN - - -is about two miles east of Amlwch, near the coast: Mr. Bingley’s account -of which, and the superstitious ceremonies still attaching to it, is both -curious and entertaining: - - “The Church is by no means an inelegant structure; and adjoining to - it is a small chapel of very ancient foundation, that measures in its - interior twelve feet by fifteen, called Myfyr, _the confessional_. A - curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal form, called _St. Elian’s - closet_, is yet left in the east wall; and is supposed to have served - both the office of communion table, and as a chest to contain the - vestments and other utensils belonging to the chapel. There is a - hole in the wall of the chapel, through which the priests are - supposed to have received confessions: the people believe this hole - to have been used in returning oracular answers to persons who made - enquiries of the saint respecting future events. Near the door is - placed Cyff Elian, _Elian’s chest_, or poor-box. People out of - health, even to this day, send their offering to the saint, which - they put through a hole into the box. A silver groat, though not a - very common coin, is said to be a present peculiarly acceptable, and - has been known to procure his intercession, when all other kinds of - coin have failed! The sum thus deposited, which in the course of a - year frequently amounts to several pounds, the church-wardens - annually divide among the poor of the parish. - - “The wakes of Llanelian were formerly held on the three first Friday - evenings in August; but they are now confined to only one of those - days. Young persons from all parts of the adjacent country, and even - from distant counties, assemble here; most of whom have along with - them some offering for the saint, to ensure their future prosperity, - palliate their offences, and secure blessings on their families, - their cattle, and corn. - - “The misguided devotees assemble about the chapel, and having - deposited their offerings, many of them proceed to search into their - future destiny in a very singular manner, by means of the wooden - closet. Persons of both sexes, of all ages and sizes, enter the - small door-way, and if they can succeed in turning themselves round - within the narrow limits of the place, (which measures only betwixt - three and four feet in height, about four feet across the back, and - eighteen inches in width) they believe that they shall be fortunate - till at least the ensuing wake; but if they do not succeed in this - difficult undertaking, they esteem it an omen of ill-fortune, or of - their death within the year. I have been told, that it is curious - enough to see a stout lusty fellow, weighing perhaps sixteen or - eighteen stone, striving to creep into these narrow confines, with as - much confidence of success as a stripling a yard high; and when he - fails in the attempt, to see him fuming and fretting, because his - body, which contains in solid bulk more than the place could hold, - were it crammed into all corners, cannot be got in. But when we - consider, that superstition and enthusiasm have generally little to - do with reason, we must not wonder at this addition to the heap of - incongruities that all ages have afforded us. - - “Llanelian was formerly a sanctuary, or place of refuge for - criminals. In digging a grave in the churchyard, about sixteen years - ago, a deep trench was discovered, which extended about twenty yards - in a transverse direction across. It was found to contain a great - quantity of human bones; and is supposed to have been the place of - interment of a number of sailors, who perished in a storm that drove - them upon this coast.” - - - -AMLWCH, - - -or _the Winding Loch_, is a dirty-looking straggling town, founded on -rocks. It owes its support chiefly to the copper works in its vicinity. -The church is a neat modern structure, dedicated to Elaeth, a British -saint: the port, which is but small, is, notwithstanding, excellently -adapted for the trade which is carried on; it is narrow, capable of only -containing two vessels abreast, of about 200 tons burthen each, and of -these it will furnish room for about thirty; the entrance is by a chasm -between two rocks. - -The Parys mountain, like the works at Merthyr, shews what the industry of -man is capable of accomplishing in removing rocks, mountains, and -dragging forth the bowels of the earth. To those who possess good -nerves, the view of this scene of wealth and industry will afford -gratification unalloyed; but to those not so blessed, the horrific -situations in which the principal actors of the scene are placed, poised -in air, exposed to the blasting of the rocks, and the falling of -materials, which themselves are sending aloft, or from those which may be -misdirected, as ascending from the workings of others, by striking -against projecting crags, seem to threaten death in so many varied -shapes, that the wonder and admiration excited by the place are lost in -pity and anxiety for the hardy miners. - -From the top of the mountain, the dreadful yawning chasm, with the -numerous stages erected over the edge of the precipice, appal rather than -gratify the observer. To see the mine to advantage, you must descend to -the bottom, and be provided with a guide, to enable you to shun the -danger, that would be considerable, from the blasts and falling -materials; the workmen generally not being able to see those that their -operations may endanger. - -The Mona mine is the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea. The -Parys mine is shared. - -The mountain has been worked with varied success for about sixty-five -years: it is now believed to be under the average; but whether that -arises from the low price of the article, or the mine being exhausted, I -am unable to say: for a considerable period, it produced 20,000 tons -annually. One bed of ore was upwards of sixty feet in thickness. In the -blasting the rock, to procure the ore, from six to eight tons of -gunpowder are yearly consumed. - -“This celebrated mountain,” says Mr. Evans, “is easily distinguished from -the rest; for it is perfectly barren from the summit to the plain below: -not a single shrub, and hardly a blade of grass, being able to live in -its sulphurous atmosphere. - - “No grassy mantle hides the sable hills, - No flowery chaplet crowns the trickling rills; - Nor tufted moss, nor leathery lichen creeps - In russet tapestry, o’er the crumbling steeps.” - - DARWIN. - -From hence we proceeded to - - - -HOLYHEAD, - - -called in Welsh _Caergybi_, situated on an island at the western -extremity of Anglesea. It has lately changed its aspect from a poor -fishing village to a decent looking town, in consequence of its being the -chief resort for passengers to and from Dublin. The distance across the -channel is about fifty-five miles; and there are sailing packets which -daily cross the channel, with the mail and government despatches. - - [Picture: North Wales Map] - -In addition to these, government has placed steam packets on this -station: the two I have had the pleasure of seeing are the finest and -most complete vessels of their tonnage I ever beheld. Each vessel has -two cabins, beautifully fitted up, light and airy; and every thing -appears to have been attended to, that can either add to the comfort or -safety of the passengers: expense has not been spared for that which was -useful, and conducive to safety; and the equipment having been -superintended by Captain Rogers, an experienced officer, on the Holyhead -station, nothing has been misapplied. The passage is effected in from -five and a half to seven hours, a distance of fifty-five miles; and the -letters are delivered in Dublin from London in the short space of forty -hours. - -In short, the attention which government has evinced to facilitate the -communication between the two kingdoms merits every praise. Neither -exertion nor expense have been spared in improving the roads from -Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which improvements have been executed under the -direction of Mr. Telford, who is now commencing on that from Chester to -the above place; and when the suspension bridge over Conway Ferry -(towards which, parliament has voted a grant of 40,000_l._) shall be -completed, in addition to that over the Menai at Bangor Ferry, but few -passengers will run the risk of a dilatory and dangerous passage by -Liverpool or Parkgate, when they may have a certain and a safe one by -Holyhead, with excellent roads and accommodation; and without the trouble -of the ferries, which were formerly an inconvenience to persons taking -this route. - -Near the centre of the town, on a rock close above the sea, is a church, -on the site where _St. Cybi_, in A.D. 380, founded a small monastery, -which, in 580, was converted into a college by _Maelgwyn Gwynedd_, or, -according to some, by _Hwfa ap Cynddelw_, Lord of Llifon, one of the -fifteen tribes of North Wales. James I. granted this college to Francis -Morris and Francis Phillips, which afterwards became the property of Rice -Gwyn, Esq. who bestowed the great tithes on Jesus College, Oxford, for -the maintenance of two fellows and two scholars: from that time the -parish has been served by a curate nominated by the College. This church -is a handsome embattled edifice, built in the form of a cross, with this -inscription, on a pediment of the north transept: “_Sancte Kyb. ora pro -nobis_.” The walls of the church-yard are seventeen feet high, six feet -thick, and form a quadrangle; three sides of which are evidently Roman, -although ascribed to _Caswallon Lawpir_, a chieftain of Anglesea, in the -fifth century: the east side is a modern low wall on the verge of the -cliffs. - -A fine extensive pier is now nearly completed, on an island called -_Ynys-halen_, which forms the north side of the harbour; at the extremity -of which, is a fine light-house, exhibiting a brilliant light by oil gas. -This grand national undertaking has already afforded an asylum to the -trade of the Channel: no less than sixty or eighty vessels have entered -the harbour in one day, and many more have sailed out in one time. -Before the erection of the pier, which commenced in 1809, many valuable -vessels, seeking for shelter in stormy weather, were lost with their -crews on the southern shores of the harbour. From this port are sent -upwards of 40,000 bushels of excellent grain every year. It contains -4071 inhabitants. - -Under the mountain which overhangs the town, called the Head, is a large -cavern, supported by natural huge pillars, named the Parliament House: -this, as well as several others, perforate deep into the mountain, and is -inaccessible without a boat. The South Slack light-house, on an islet, -within about twenty yards of the bold cliffs of the mountain, exhibits a -revolving light of the greatest utility. The islet is connected with the -mountain by means of a rope bridge, which is perfectly safe to cross -over, and worthy the attention of the curious. Among these rocks vast -numbers of the peregrine falcon take up their abode, together with -pigeons, gulls, puffins, razor-bills, and other sea-birds. - -In returning from Holyhead, we stopped at Gwyndy, or the Wine House, -about twelve miles and a half from the Head and the Ferry.—Mr. Bingley -gives the following account of the origin of its name: “About the reign -of Edward the Fourth, and for some years subsequent to that period, the -gentlemen of Wales frequently invited their friends, in large parties, to -exercise in wrestling, tournaments, and other feats of activity: but as -these meetings, in consequence of the numbers invited, were usually -attended with great expense, they were always held in the house of some -neighbouring tenant, who was supplied with wine from the lord’s cellar; -this was sold to the visitors, and his master received the profits. -These houses were denominated Gwyndu, or wine houses; and, from this -circumstance, the present place had its name.” - -Having again reached Bangor, we determined still farther to explore the -beauties of this delightful spot and its vicinity: having taken a hasty -refreshment, we bent our steps towards Abercearn, near the mouth of a -small rivulet that empties itself into Port Penrhyn, and from thence -proceeded to - - - -PENRHYN CASTLE, - - -the mansion of George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq. which is delightfully -situated on a wooded eminence, between the estuaries of the Cegin and the -Ogwen, about two miles east of the city of Bangor. It commands a fine -view of the bay and town of Beaumaris to the north; the Great Ormes Head, -and Penmaen-maur terminate the prospect on the east; and towards the -south, the scene is closed by a bold and romantic range of mountains. - -A short distance west of the Castle is Port Penrhyn, where the slates are -brought down from Mr. Pennant’s quarry, and shipped in immense quantities -to various parts of the world. It is easy of access, perfectly -sheltered, and capable of accommodating trading vessels of upwards of 300 -tons burthen. - -It is but justice to the successor of the late Lord Penrhyn to say, that -along with the estate, he appears to inherit the same spirit for -improvement. The recent extension of the quay at Port Penrhyn, is one of -the many instances which might be recited; by it, accommodation has been -given to about fifty sail of traders, in addition to the former -shipping-place, making the total length of the quay upwards of three -hundred yards. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegin, which runs in -at the head of the port, forms a complete connexion between the quay, the -limeworks, the sea shore, and the city. - -Penrhyn Castle possesses a great curiosity; and Mr. Evans’s account of -it, in his Topography, being both judicious and entertaining, I subjoin -it. It is the Hirlas or drinking-horn of Piers Gryffydd, which is -perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of utensil elucidatory of -ancient manners. - -“It is a large bugle horn of an ox, ornamented with enchased silver, and -suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own -name and family engraved at the end. In the royal court of Cambria, -there were legally _three_ sorts of horns, for the purpose of private or -public libations. The first was y corn ydd yfo y brenin, or the one -solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, corn cyweithas, by which -the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty. And, third, corn y -pencynydd, committed to the custody of the chief huntsman. Each of these -was to be of the reputed value of one pound. On grand occurrences, the -domestics of the palace were permitted to drink out of the sovereign’s -horn, and the chamberlain, or high steward, on such occasions, furnished -handsome potations of the generous metheglin. The contents of the horn, -at these times, assumed the name of the sacred potion, similar to the -_wassail bowl_, or the apostle’s cup, in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, -when he conveyed certain lands to the church of York, is said to have -quaffed off the sparkling contents of such a vessel, drinking a health, -“_Deo et Sancto Petro_,” to God and St. Peter. On festive days, the -imperious custom was to empty the horn at one tip, and instantly blow it, -as a testimony that no dereliction of draught had occurred. - - “Fill the horn with foaming liquor, - Fill it up, my boy, be quicker; - Hence away despair and sorrow, - Time enough to sigh to-morrow. - Let the brimming goblet smile, - And Ednyfed’s cares beguile. - Gallant youth, unus’d to fear, - Master of the broken spear; - And the arrow-pierced shield, - Brought with honour from the field. - Like an hurricane is he - Bursting on the troubled sea. - See their spears distain’d with gore, - Hear the din of battle roar, - Bucklers, swords, together clashing, - Sparkles from their helmets flashing, - Hear ye not their loud alarms? - Hark! they shout—to arms! to arms! - Thus were Garthen’s plains defended, - Melor fight, began and ended: - There two princes fought; and there - Was Morach Vowran’s feast exchang’d for rout and fear.” {208} - -The rail-road and inclined planes formed by the late Lord Penrhyn, to -reduce the labour and risk of bringing down the slates to the port, with -numerous other improvements, are estimated to have cost his lordship one -hundred and seventy thousand pounds. - -The much admired church of Llandegai is a neat Gothic edifice, which has -recently been greatly improved and beautified; the late Lady Penrhyn -having left a noble bequest for that purpose. “The whole interior has -been renewed, viz. the seats, pulpit, communion, ceiling, plaistering, -and floor, and the tower raised, in order to admit a peal of six bells: a -legacy for which has been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as well as one for -the erection of a monument to her deceased lord, which is now fixed up in -the church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of work.” _Williams_. - -It is made of statuary marble, and represents two large figures; the one -is a female peasant girl weeping over the loss of her deceased lord and -lady; the other a quarryman, with an iron bar and slate knife in his -hand, earnestly regarding the inscription, which commemorates his -benefactors. Besides these, the following four smaller figures strongly -depict the wonderful changes effected on the face of the country, and on -the morals, habits, and comforts of its inhabitants, by the noble and -spirited exertions of the late Lord Penrhyn. - -The first is a boy, with two reeds in his mouth, feeding his goats in the -mountains, being an emblem of this country, on its appearance to Lord -Penrhyn when it was in a very rough state. 2nd, Two boys working in the -slate quarry; being an emblem of industry. 3rd, One boy teaching -another; being an emblem of religion. 4th, Three boys standing in a -wheat field, bearing their sickles; being an emblem or representation of -plenty. Here likewise are interred the remains of the celebrated -Archbishop Williams; who is represented in his robes in a kneeling -position on a mural monument. - -Mr. Pennant’s slate quarry is about six miles from Bangor, on the road to -Capel-Curig, and Cerniogi-Mawr. St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was -erected, and liberally endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn -left a sum of money for an organ, and a suitable stipend for the -organist. - -The traveller is greatly indebted to the present Mr. Pennant, as well as -to the late Lord Penrhyn, for the very great and comfortable -accommodation he now derives from their exertions on this line of road. -The inn at Capel-Curig is now large and convenient; in addition to which, -and to save time, Mr. Pennant has caused to be erected a cottage and -stables, to enable parties in haste, as well as the mail and coaches, to -change horses without going down to the inn. - -Near the slate quarry is the pretty cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, -called Ogwen Bank. It is a perfect paradise, arising out of chaos; the -style is the florid Gothic, and shews great taste in the designer. The -centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming the segment of a -circle; the wings contain coach-houses and stabling. Over the river -Ogwen, in a rough and picturesque part of it, is a bridge corresponding -with the house. All visitors to the house are requested to sign their -names in a book kept for that purpose. This beautiful cottage is hid -from the road by the trees and plantations. - -Having satisfied ourselves with the view of this charming retreat, we -proceeded to a comfortable inn, called Tynymaes, (now a post-house, with -good stables,) and partook of some refreshment, prior to a more full -investigation of the horrors and beauties of the vale of Beavers, or Nant -Ffrancon; for in this once solitary and dreadful glen, those useful and -astonishingly ingenious animals were once found, whose skins were then -valued at 120 pence. The awful grandeur of the surrounding barren rugged -rocks are finely contrasted by the rich verdant bottom of the glen, and -the thick foliage and luxuriant plantations of Ogwen Bank. Descending -from the road into a hollow, we had a fine view of the cataracts of -Benglog; down which the waters of five lakes rush into the pool beneath; -the lower fall of the three, which is the largest, is seen to the -greatest advantage, by climbing a rugged rock. “Here,” says Mr. Bingley, -“the stream roared with vast fury, and in one sheet of foam, down an -unbroken and almost perpendicular rock. The sun shone directly upon it, -and a prismatic bow was beautifully formed by the spray. The tremendous -roar of the water, and the broken and uncouth disposition of the -immediately surrounding rocks, added greatly to the interest of the -scene. After a while I climbed a rocky steep to the second or middle -fall. Here the river is precipitated, in a fine stream, through a chasm -between two perpendicular rocks that each rise several yards above. From -the station I took, the immense mountain Trivain was seen to fill up the -wide space at the top; heightened greatly in effect by a dark aërial tint -arising from the extreme heat of the day, and the lowering clouds that -were floating around. The masses of black rocks, surrounded by foam, -near the top of the fall, I could have fancied were floating along the -torrent, and rushing to the bottom. The stream widens as it descends, -and below passes over a slanting rock, which gives it somewhat of a -different direction. In the foreground was the rugged bed of the stream, -and the water was seen to dash in various directions among the broken -masses of rock. The third cataract, to which I now clambered, I found -very grand and majestic, yet by no means equal to either of the former. -These waterfalls are scarcely known in the adjacent country, and have -been unaccountably omitted even in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, although this -gentleman accurately describes most of the scenery around them. - -“Leaving the falls, the trouble of visiting which had been amply repaid -by the pleasure I had derived from them, I regained the road. On -crossing the upper end of the vale, I was delighted with a very beautiful -and unexpected view for nearly its whole length; where the mountains down -each side appeared, to a great distance, falling off in beautiful -perspective.” - -Mr. Bingley experienced not more pleasure than we did in the view of -these cataracts; but he was fortunate in having more leisure to add to -it, by viewing Y Trivaen or the Three Summits, which bounds the right -extremity of the hollow, and Llyn Ogwen, from which the river of that -name takes its rise: Mr. Hutton’s description of it made us greatly -regret the pleasure we were obliged to decline; but having upwards of -five miles to return to Bangor, although our road was all down hill, we -found it necessary so to do, from the previous fatigues of the day: -rocks, Welsh roads, and the viewing of slate quarries, prove the stamina -of a tourist. Mr. Hutton approached Llyn Ogwen from Capel-Curig, where -there is now an excellent inn, much frequented during the summer months -by parties of pleasure. His description is as follows: - - “A stranger to the country, to the language, and almost to man, I - returned to Nant Gwynant, slept at Capel-Curig, and was wandering - over Lord Penrhyn’s new road towards Caernarvon. The cascades on my - left were rolling down with violence, after heavy rain, when a sheet - of water, one mile long and three quarters wide, presented itself to - view; which by the map I knew must be Ogwen Pool. But what was my - surprise, when, at the extremity of the pool, I instantly found - myself upon a precipice two hundred feet high, and in a moment, a - most beautiful valley burst upon me of nearly one mile wide and four - long; the river rushing down this precipice in several stages, and - winding full in view through this delightful valley. The rocks - appeared tremendous, the mountains sloping, and the verdure - increasing with the descent, to the bottom, where, if poetically - inclined, I might say, ‘Nature sat in majesty, adorned in her best - robe of green velvet.’ When I had travelled about three miles along - this sequestered valley, I saw four people endeavouring to repair a - gate. I addressed one who appeared likely to understand English. He - readily answered several questions respecting the road, and other - objects. ‘My way, I am informed, Sir, lies through Nant Frangon; - pray how shall I know when I am in it?’ ‘You are in it now.’ Over - part of this vale impends Yr ala wen, its front torn into amazing - gullies.” - -The new mail road between Bangor and Cernioga Mawr, through Capel-Curig, -saves upwards of nine miles; by this road, through Shrewsbury, the -distance to London is two hundred and thirty-six miles three furlongs: -the old mail road, through Chester, is two hundred and fifty-one miles -one furlong; and the former road, through Shrewsbury, Llanrwst, Conway, -and over Penmaen-Maur, is two hundred and forty-five miles, or by -Bridgenorth, two hundred and fifty-two miles. - -Along this road lies some exquisite scenery: and the following passage -from the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, will agreeably -illustrate the feelings with which it impregnated the author. - - “As Helvidius was making an excursion among the mountains, stretching - to the east of Moelshiabod, he arrived at the bridge, across a small - rivulet; and sitting down upon the grass, fell asleep under the shade - of a large holly tree. He awoke just as the sun was sinking in the - horizon; a slight shower succeeded; all nature became renovated; and - the perfumes, which embalmed the air, seemed even capable of wafting - him to the Elysian Fields. The tree, beneath which he reposed, stood - in a valley, matchless even in the Island of Madagascar; and the - cones of several mountains gave an air of grandeur to the - perspective, which nature has forbidden in most other regions. He - was lost, as it were, in the enthusiasm of his admiration! At that - moment Lord — passed in his coach, apparently insensible to the - scenes, through which he was conveyed. Oh! how an indiscriminate - mingling with men blunts the best feelings of the human heart! ‘Had - his Lordship,’ thought Helvidius, ‘seen these lovely pictures, even a - thousand and a thousand times before, he might have derived enjoyment - from witnessing them again; since it is the autumnal season of the - year; and the woods and shrubs growing out of the rocks, are - variegated in a manner, that even Salvator Rosa would have loved to - look upon them!’ - - “Though Helvidius was mortified at this insensibility on the part of - the statesman, and felt so ready to condemn his taste and want of - sensibility, he was weak enough to feel more at war with himself, - than with him: and began seriously to question, which were the wiser - of the two; the man who loves, or he who neglects, the varied objects - of the material world. ‘He is a Peer,’ exclaimed he to himself, ‘a - man of education,—a statesman,—one who is looked up to in the world, - as being, in a manner, pre-eminent over his species:—he seems to have - little relish for all these objects, which I have been looking upon - with such enthusiasm. It must be folly and weakness in me, - therefore, to indulge this humour; a humour, which, from what I have - seen of mankind, I am sensible, most men, who look not up through - every object that he sees, to the Architect, that makes it, would - esteem frivolous and idle, if not criminal. There are no silver - mines here: nor does this rivulet leave any gold dust upon its - shores!’ He sat down mortified. To dissipate his chagrin, he took a - volume of Epictetus out of his pocket, and opening the book, his eye - alighted upon the following passage. ‘As when you see an asp in a - golden casket, you do not esteem that asp happy, because it is - inclosed in materials so costly and so magnificent, but despise and - would shun it, on account of its venom: so, when you see vice lodged - in the midst of wealth and the swelling pride of fortune, be not - struck with the splendour of the materials, with which it is - surrounded, but despise the gross alloy of its manners and - sentiments.’ Upon reading this passage, Helvidius became instantly - ashamed of his folly, and reconciled to his enthusiasm. ‘Though this - is a man,’ said he to himself, ‘who, like the King of Sweden’s - enchanted cup, can almost make the wind turn to any part of the - compass, which pleases his humour most: though he is perpetually - surrounded by persons, who, if he were to take his shoe from off his - foot, hurl it into the air, and proclaim it a god, would worship it - as it fell; and though he is a rising sun, whom half the world would - worship, yet would I rather be able to trace the Power, which formed - this holly tree, up to as far as my imagination is capable of - soaring, than be the man for him to shake by the hand; to admit to - his banquets; to revel with his minions; to hang, as it were, upon - his lips; and to be raised to ecstacy by his smiles! - - “Climb at court for me, that will - Tottering favour’s pinnacle; - All I wish is to be still. - Settled in some secret nest, - In calm quiet let me rest: - And far from off the public stage, - Pass away my quiet age.” - -On leaving Bangor we proceeded to the pretty little village of Aber, -which gives its name to the last of the ferries over the Menai. The walk -from the village across the Lavan Sands to the ferry is about four miles. -This walk it would be hazardous for a stranger to undertake without a -guide, as the sands frequently shift. During foggy weather, the large -bell of Aber, given for this purpose by Lord Bulkeley, is constantly -rung, as a guide to direct those coming from the island. - -Near the bridge is a circular mount, seemingly artificial, which was the -foundation of a small castle, probably constructed of timber, as many of -the Welsh fortresses were: the vestiges of the moat and its feeder from -the river still remain. - - “Traces of buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were - probably the remains of the prince’s palace, as the inhabitants still - pretend to show strangers the foundation of the old kitchen. Several - memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn, - which is the ancient name by which this place was - distinguished.”—WILLIAMS. - -At the siege of Montgomery, in the reign of Henry the Third, Llewelyn ap -Iorwerth took prisoner a potent baron, named William de Breos, whom he -conducted to this castle. William, who was both accomplished and -handsome, gained not only the friendship of his conqueror, but likewise -the affections of his wife, {217} with whom he ventured to carry on an -intrigue. This not having been discovered by Llewelyn till after the -baron had been ransomed, he condescended to resort to a breach of -hospitality, for the purpose of getting him again into his power. - -De Breos having accepted an invitation from Llewelyn to visit him, the -latter no sooner got possession of his person, than he caused him to be -hung on the side of the opposite hill. The next morning the bard of the -palace (the princess being ignorant of his fate) accosted her in the -following rhyme: - - “Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn, - Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?” - - “Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of your - William?” - -To which the princess answered: - - “Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn - Y rown I gyd am weled Gwilym!” - - “Wales and England and Llywelyn, - I’d give them all to see my William!” - -The bard, thus aggravating Llywelyn’s cruelty, shewed him to her hanging -on a tree, on the side of the hill, at a place called Wern Grogedig. -Upon a mountain, about a mile south of Llywelyn’s castle, in a field -called Cae Gwlyn du, is a cave where William de Breos was interred, still -called Tyddyn Gwilyn. - -Aber is much resorted to during the summer season, the sands at high -water affording excellent bathing: the inn likewise affords good -accommodation. It chiefly belongs to Lord Bulkeley, and exhibits -numerous proofs of his lordship’s benevolence; amongst the rest, a new -steeple to the church, with a ring of bells. - -From hence, after passing Gosddinog (Mrs. Crawley’s) we soon reached the -dark lowering promontory of Pen-mawn-mawr, about eight miles from Bangor, -rising perpendicularly, in a massy wall, to the height of one thousand -four hundred feet: huge fragments of shattered rock are scattered by the -side of the road; and a wall, scarcely five feet high, alone protects a -carriage from the steep precipice; which from the slightness of the -foundation, has even fallen down in many parts. In this awfully sublime -situation we remained for some time, astonished at the bold protuberance -of the rocks, which seemed to project their dark sides to augment the -idle roar of the waves. - -The difference between looking up and looking down a precipice is well -marked by Mr. Jefferson, in the account he furnished the Marquis de -Chastellux, of the Virginian bridge of rocks. “Though the sides of the -bridge,” says he, “are provided, in some parts, with a parapet of fixed -rocks, yet few men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into -the abyss. You voluntarily fall on your hands and feet, creep to the -parapet, and look over it. Looking from the height about a minute gave -me a violent head-ache. If the view from the top be painful and -intolerable, that from below is delightful in the extreme. It is -impossible for the emotions, arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond -what they are on the sight of so beautiful an arch; so elevated and so -light, springing up, as it were, to heaven. The rapture of the spectator -is indescribable.” - -In keeping the direct line of road the traveller leaves behind him many -antiquities worthy of attention; Mr. Williams’s account of which, from -his being a resident near the spot, appearing to be the best, as well as -containing a most full and interesting description of the ancient Welsh -or British games, I shall transcribe: at the same time, strongly -recommending the work to such as wish to take a minute survey of this -county.—His route is reversed, “but as most strangers will, no doubt, -proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall be my endeavour to act as their -guide, and mention some particulars which are worth their attention along -this road. For the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he -comes to an opening between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when -all of a sudden a most magnificent scene presents itself. From hence, he -commands a full view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of -small vessels; the Puffin, or Priestholm island, the village of Llangoed, -the town of Beaumaris, Baron-hill, and the Friars; the former, the -beautiful seat of the Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter, that of his -brother, Sir Robert Williams, Bart. M.P., all on the Anglesea shore. On -the Caernarvonshire side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle; and last, though not -least, the huge Penmaen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, -forming a natural barrier in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut -off every communication this way, and render any farther progress -impracticable. The art of man has, however, at length conquered these -difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772, an -excellent road was formed along the edge of this once tremendous and -dangerous precipice, under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, -parliament having generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to -this event several fatal accidents had happened here; and one or two -nearly miraculous escapes are recorded in Pennant’s tour through North -Wales. At that time, no carriage passed this way, and consequently, all -the travelling was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was -generally a pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, -written on a pane of glass, at the old inn, (now a farm-house) near this -mountain:— - - Before you venture here to pass, - Take a good refreshing glass; - And when you are over, take another, - Your fainting spirits to recover. - -“Before the traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned, -to the little vale Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the left, -in order to examine some antiquities, near a place called Gwddw Glâs, in -that parish. Here are several circles of stones, of various diameters, -and large Carneddau, viz. barrows, or tumuli; supposed to have been -memorials of those heroes who fell in the field of battle, as cistfaens, -or stone coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these circular -heaps or collection of stones. The principal circle now consists of ten -upright stones, at unequal distances: the largest is eight feet three -inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two inches; the -diameter of this circle is eighty feet. - -“Near this are four other smaller circles; in the centre of one is a flat -stone, the remains of a cromlech, from which it may be conjectured, that -it was a Druidical or bardic circle. About a quarter of a mile from -these is a large circle, composed of small stones, and near it another of -large stones; and not far from these another circle, composed of smaller -stones. - -“Near the last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the -stone of games; and nearly contiguous is a carnedd, and a small circle of -twelve stones; adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now -called in this country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (woodmen or Irishmen’s huts) -being the foundations of small buildings, made of round stones; and the -vestige of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the -Conway. Some of these last, might probably have been the summer -habitations or encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, -stationed at Caer Rhun, or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their -cattle. - -“Having mentioned Maen y Campiau, it may not perhaps be considered a -digression to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British games, of which -there were ten _Gurolgampau_, or manly games; viz. 1. to lift up great -weights; 2. running; 3. leaping; 4. swimming; 5. wrestling; 6. riding. -These six were styled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up -persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, -Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included charioteering, or the skilful -driving and management of different kinds of carriages. The other four -were, 1. archery; 2. playing with the sword and buckler; 3. playing with -the Cledda deuddwrn, or two-handed sword; 4. Chwarau ffoun ddwybig, or -playing with the two-end staff or spear. Next to these were the ten -_Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men; viz. 1. -coursing; 2. fishing; 3. fowling; the remaining seven were of the -domestic kind; 1. Barddoniaeth, or poetical composition; 2. Chwareu’r, -Delyn, or playing upon the harp; 3. reading Welsh; 4. singing with the -harp; 5. singing between three or four, most probably in alternate -stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. drawing or painting, particularly coats of -arms; 7. heraldry. After these were four _Gogampiau_, or minor games; -viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of draughts; 2. -Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be -derived from the Welsh language; viz. Back, little, and Cammawn, or -Gammon, Battle; and Tawl-Burdd, means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau -Ffristeal, or the game of the dice-box; in what manner it was played is -not known at present; 4. Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the tuning of the harp. - -“After visiting these circles, the traveller may either proceed to the -top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dygyfylchi -church, not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is -Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq. In the clefts of the rocks, above -the turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus Aria, or white -beam-tree. Mr. Pennant observes, the Swiss procure a good kind of ardent -spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been -fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are -still visible the remains of a great number of huts, or small buildings, -most probably at one time, the habitations of soldiers; it was, no doubt, -a strong military post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the -Britons and Romans. The Roman road from Segontium to Conovium must have -passed near it, probably on the south side; and this high mountain, so -conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of -link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this -county and Denbyshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick, (now called -Pen Dinas), a Roman encampment in the parish of Llandeiniolen, near -Caernarvon on the west, and from many fortified eminences in the other -county, on the east. The usual signals in ancient times were fires by -night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined the immense -ruins of Braich y Dinas, we now proceed along the high road, through the -parish of Llanfairfechan; and leaving that small church, on an eminence, -a little to the left of the road, and on the right, Brynn y Neuadd, an -old neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, -Esq. and afterwards conveyed to the Wynnes of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, -by the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family; we soon pass -Gorddinog,” &c. _Williams_. - -Pursuing a good turnpike-road from Mrs. Crawley’s, we presently came in -sight of the towers of - - - -CONWAY CASTLE, - - -standing on a rock, so picturesquely alluded to in the Bard of Gray. - - “On a rock, whose haughty brow, - Frown’d o’er old Conway’s foaming flood, - Robed in a sable garb of woe, - With haggard eyes the poet stood.” - -The castle, built by Edward I., is a magnificent fortress, in the form of -a parallelogram. - -An air of proud sublimity, united with singular wildness, characterises -the place. The evening was far advanced; and part of its ruins were -shining with the purple glow of the setting sun, whose remaining features -stood in darkened majesty, when we entered this monument of desolation. -Passing over a plank, originally the site of the drawbridge, we came into -the outward court, strongly defended with battlements; from thence we -examined the grand entrance of the castle, with several abutments -projecting forward, similar in style to Caernarvon. On the south side of -the court is the grand hall, measuring an hundred and thirty feet by -thirty-two, with eight light Gothic arches, five of which are still in -good condition. At one end is the chapel, with a large window, a -beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture. It was founded on the solid -rock, by Edward I. in the year 1284; the walls are from eleven to fifteen -feet thick: all the towers are defended by small round ones, projecting -two or three feet over, with a regular communication round the whole -castle by galleries, on the same plan as at Caernarvon. The steps are -decayed and broken, and the looseness of the stones rendered a footing -very insecure; but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended -the most perfect tower, and an extensive prospect presented itself to our -view. The foundation of one of the principal towers, looking towards a -small river, which here joins the Conway, has lately given way, and torn -down with it part of the building; the remainder now hangs in an -extraordinary manner. The whole town is enclosed with strong walls, and -defended by a number of towers, which communicate with the castle by a -gallery; there are likewise several gateways at certain distances. - -The ancient church next attracted our attention, but did not detain us -long, as the monuments for the Wynnes are the only things worthy of -inspection, except the following inscription, which is engraved on a flat -stone, in the nave of the church: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas -Hookes, of Conway, gent., who was the 41st child of his father, William -Hookes, Esq. by Alice, his wife, and father of 27 children; who died the -20th day of March, 1637.” Few districts in the world can, perhaps, -produce a record similar to the preceding. - -From thence we surveyed the remains of the college, which in the reign of -King Edward I. was intended for the instruction of youth. It is now in -complete ruins: the workmanship curious, with several sculptured arms. -In this town is an ancient house, built in the form of a quadrangle, by -the Wynnes, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, now inhabited by poor -families. The house is adorned after the fantastical fashion of the -times in which it was erected; the roof is singularly carved, and the -front decorated with the arms of England, with several curious crests, -birds, and beasts: it bears the date of the year 1585. The arms of -Elizabeth are carved over the door, fronting the street. - -The river Conway has been celebrated from the earliest period of British -history, for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts that Julius Cæsar -dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a breast-plate, set -with British pearls; and other authorities go so far as to assign the -desire to get possession of these jewels, as one of the reasons of his -invading the British isles. The shell in which they are found is called -the pearl muscle, and is the same which by Linnæus is termed Mya -Margaritifera. - -The fish, which generate these concretions, are considered in a sickly -state; and it is said that on their being squeezed, they can and will -eject them, which they occasionally do spontaneously on the sands. I am -given to understand, that a very considerable trade is carried on by an -individual, very snugly, at this very day, in pearls collected from the -Conway and adjacent coast. Some years ago, Sir Robert Vaughan appeared -at court with a button and loop in his hat, set with pearls from the -Conway; and Mr. Edward Llwyd says, that the pearls found here are as -large and as well coloured as any in Great Britain. - -“Immediately at the foot of the castle,” says a recent traveller, {226} -“a suspension-bridge is thrown over the previously dangerous ferry, in -the erection of which great taste has been exhibited. Castellated towers -support the chains, and where the road enters the town, a toll-house, in -the shape of a dilapidated tower, has been erected, which perfectly -harmonizes with the view around it, and taken altogether, the bridge -seems to be the draw-bridge of the castle, and does not detract from the -antique grandeur of the scene. Mr. Telford is the architect of this, as -well as of the Menai Bridge; and though it possesses nothing of the -immense proportions, it is equally elegant and well adapted to its -situation.” - -Edward the First made this a free borough. It is now governed by one -alderman, a recorder, coroner, water-bailiff, and two serjeants-at-mace, -chosen annually, and is a contributory borough with Caernarvon, Pwllheli, -Nevin, and Criccaeth, in returning a member to parliament. Its market is -on Friday. - -The usual route, and the one which we intended to pursue, laying by St. -Asaph and Chester, we determined first to explore some of the beauties of -the vale of Conway; and with this object in view, took the road leading -to Llanwrst: it possesses the charming varieties of wood, water, and a -richly cultivated country, backed by mountain scenery. We soon reached -Caer Rhun, the site of the ancient Conovium of the Romans, where the -tenth legion were stationed. The late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, vicar -of the parish, and a gentleman well known for his antiquarian researches, -traced out here the remains of a Roman pottery: many utensils of various -sorts had previously been found, mostly imperfect, some well designed and -very curious. Amongst other things found here, was a small brazen -circular shield, of curious workmanship, embossed, a little more than a -foot in diameter, and with a projecting pike of wrought iron, of about -four inches and a-half, placed in the centre; it had circles of brass -studs, and appeared to have been lined with leather and stuffed with -hair. Numerous Roman coins were likewise found, and near this is a hill, -called Mynydd Caer Leon, or the _Hill of the Legion_. Mr. Williams says, -“This legion was denominated Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at -Chester, (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy), was distinguished -by the name of Vicessima Victrix: and the Second Legion, stationed at -Caer Leon, in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the -title of Augusta Britannica. There was, no doubt, a Roman road from -hence to Segontium, on the west, and to Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys on -the east, and another probably through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and -Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelly, Castell y Beri, -near Tal y Llynn, to Penal, near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman -encampment, and where very considerable remains were discovered.” - -The next object worthy of attention is Rhaiadr Mawr, or the Great -Waterfall, about seven miles from Conway; Mr. Bingley’s account of which -is so correct and spirited, that I shall give it verbatim. “I ascended -along a winding path, which, after about a quarter of an hour’s walk, -conducted me to the bed of the river, near the station from whence it was -to be seen to the greatest advantage. The water, from the late dry -weather, was very inconsiderable; still, however, the scene was highly -picturesque. From the upper part two streams descended at some distance -from each other. The range of rock, down which the water was thrown, was -very wide and extremely rude, being formed in horizontal ledges, into -deep clefts and enormous chasms. On the various lodgments of the rocks -were numerous pendant shrubs. The dark shades of the clefts, and the -irregular brilliancy of the prominent features of the scene, from the -reflected rays of the sun, contrasted again with the foaming of the -water, were truly grand. The colours of the rock, which were every where -also very dark, were rich and highly varied. The streams united a little -above the middle of the fall: they rushed from thence in foam over the -rocks, and, from the deep shelvings, in many places the water was -entirely hidden from me below. In addition to this, nearly every -different stratum of rock threw it into a fresh direction. In the whole -scene there was the utmost irregularity. On the right of the cataract, -the enclosing rocks were nearly perpendicular, very lofty, and crowned -with pendant foliage. Those on the left were very high and towering, -adorned on the lodgments with grass and ferns. I should have made a -drawing of this cataract, had it been possible to have expressed it with -any justice on an octavo plate; this, however, was altogether impossible. -The above description is expressed in terms infinitely too feeble to give -any correct idea of the scene. This waterfall appeared to me by much the -most grand and picturesque of any that I have seen in North Wales. - -“In descending to the road, I had an extensive view along the whole vale -of Conway. It appeared from this eminence to be much varied, and on the -whole very beautiful.” - -Besides this, many other waterfalls and cascades, along this charming -river, will amply repay this digression, and entice the tourist forward -to its junction with the Lledr and Machno. Near Llanwrst, Gwydir-house -and woods, and at that place, the church, and the famous bridge, built by -Inigo Jones, will engage his attention. Beyond the vale is beautiful and -romantic, far exceeding my powers of description; all that wood, water, -and the most rugged rocks, and picturesque mountain scenery can do to -delight the lovers of nature, heightened by the relief of a highly -cultivated country, interspersed with gentlemen’s seats, frequently -breaking on the view, are here amply afforded them. Proceeding up the -vale, and through Gwydir woods, you reach Bettws y Coed; thence to the -new iron Waterloo-bridge over the Conway, on the great Irish road, visit -the falls of the Conway and Machno, return to Bettws, proceed up the -Lligwy to view the Rhaidar y Wennol, or Cataract of the Swallow, which, -when it possesses its customary body of water, is truly tremendous. In -going from hence to the excellent inn at Capel-Curig, by making a circuit -of about four or five miles to the southward, you may visit Dolwyddelan -Castle, the residence of Meredith ap Jevan, before mentioned in the -account of Llyn. From Capel-Curig, proceeding towards Bangor, till the -road nearly reaches the river Ogwen, he may with labour and difficulty -trace the old Roman road, from Segontium to Conovium, or, without any -risk of satiety, retread his steps by Llanwrst to Conway. - -The trade of Conway consists in the exportation of slate and copper from -the Llandidno mines, from whence the finest specimens of Malachite copper -is brought. The town and castle of Conway are seen to great advantage in -crossing the river, which is here about half a mile over, and at high -water washes the walls of that massy ruin: in the middle of the channel -is a small rocky island. We observed from this situation the two castles -called Bodscallan and Dyganwy; the small remains of the latter stand on a -high rock above the river: the former is a beautiful seat of the Mostyns. - -Crossing the ferry we determined on exploring the Criddin, a Commot, or -Hundred of Caernarvonshire, at the extremity of which is that noted -landmark, the Great Orme’s Head. This commot is supposed to contain some -of the best arable and meadow land in this part of the principality; the -shores and cliffs likewise afford excellent limestone, and pebbles for -paving; both of which are shipped in large quantities for Liverpool and -other markets. Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, _The Fort of the Conway_, was -once the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, who here -held his court. The following anecdote of which, as connected with -Taliesin, the British Bard, I shall give the heads of from Mr. Bingley: - - “Gwyddno Garanhir, brother of Maelgwyn, who likewise resided in the - neighbourhood, had near his residence a weir, called Gored Wyddno, - _Gwyddno’s Weir_, which is even yet known by the same name, and - belongs to Sir Thomas Mostyn, as owner of the house of Bodscallon. - Elphin, the son of Gwyddno, was an extravagant youth; and at one time - he had so greatly exhausted his finances, that he was compelled, as a - temporary relief, to ask his father the benefit of the weir for a - single night. The request was complied with, but not a single fish - was caught. {231} A leathern basket was however taken up, which, on - examination, was found to contain a child. This was an unfortunate - circumstance to one so much in want of even a successful tide. - Elphin had, however, the humanity to direct that the child should be - taken care of, and that no expense should be spared in his education. - The youth, who was named Taliesin, was introduced by Elphin at his - father’s court; and his first step towards fame was in reciting there - a poem containing the history of his life, called Hanes Taliesin. - Maelgwyn Gwynedd was greatly surprised at his talent, and himself - became afterwards his patron. Some time after this a dispute took - place at Diganwy, betwixt Elphin and his father, of so serious a - nature, as to cause the former to be thrown into prison. His - attentions to Taliesin now proved of the utmost importance to him. - The bard addressed to the prince a poem on his patron, which excited - his commiseration, and caused him to issue an immediate order for - Elphin’s release. Taliesin continued to receive, throughout the - whole of his life, the attentions, the admirations, and the applause - which his talents justly merited; and after his death, he was - honoured with the appellation of _The Prince of the British Bards_.” - -Gloddaith woods particularly, and most part of this small district, -afford considerable amusement to the botanist; as will the libraries of -Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. at Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, to the antiquarian -and the historian. The former of these seats was built in the reign of -Queen Elizabeth; since which period both mansion and furniture have -experienced but trifling alterations. - -The tremendous precipice on the west side of the Ormshead is worthy of a -visit. The sea view is very extensive, and generally enlivened by the -passing of Liverpool shipping; you likewise command a view of the Isle of -Man, and occasionally views of the Irish, Lancashire, and the distant -haze of the Scottish coast. The sea birds frequent these cliffs and -shores in great abundance, more particularly gulls, razor-bills, and -guillemots, corvorants, herons, and the peregrine falcon; the latter of -which, in the days of falconry, were held in such high estimation, that -the celebrated Lord Burleigh sent a letter of thanks for a present of a -cast of hawks from this place to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s. -Unprotected by any shelter, on the summit of the high promontory, stands -the small church of Llandudno, but little famous for any thing but its -singular situation, and its service as a beacon. Proceeding along the -mail-road, with the sea on our left, and low rocks on our right, nothing -particular attracted our attention, till in descending a hill about two -miles from the neat bathing-town of - - - -ABERGELE, - - -we observed on our right, two immense caverns, about half way up the -mountain; they are called Cavern-arogo, and run four or five hundred -yards into the ground; but their real extent has never been ascertained -with accuracy. From these mountains vast quantities of lime are shipped -for Liverpool and many parts of England. - -Abergele, situate on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, is a small neat town of -one street, resorted to in the summer season for bathing. The sands -afford excellent walking; in the evening we lingered on the beach for a -considerable time, enjoying the calm, but cheerful beauty of nature, and -inhaling the pure sea-breeze—for - - . . . “The wind was hush’d; - And to the beach each slowly-lifted wave, - Creeping with silver-curl, just kiss’d the shore, - And slept in silence.” - - MASON’S GARDEN. - -With pleasure mixed with reverential awe, we trod Rhuddlan Marsh, so -celebrated in the annals of history. Here the ill-fated Richard II. was -betrayed into the hands of Bolingbroke, and taken prisoner to Flint: -here, Offa, king of Mercia, met his untimely death: here the Welsh, under -the command of Caradoc, in the year 795, were defeated in a conflict with -the Saxons, and their leader slain in the action. This memorable and -tragic event is handed down to posterity by an ancient celebrated and -affecting ballad, called Morva Rhuddlan, or the Marsh of Rhuddlan, -composed by the bards on the death of Prince Caradoc. - -The ground we trod, connected with so many events, revived in our minds -the memory of past ages; a series of historical events came to our -recollection: events, that are now so distant, as almost to be -obliterated from the page of history. Passing over a bridge of two -arches, thrown over the river Clwyd, we entered - - - -RHUDDLAN - - -once the largest and most respectable town in North Wales. Walking over -the ruins of the castle, in which Edward 1st. kept three Christmases, I -recurred, by a natural association of ideas, to the times, when the -parliament-house, the halls, and courts, echoed with the voices of those, -who have been long since swept from the earth by the unerring hand of -death. One solitary Gothic window is now only remaining to distinguish -the old parliament-house, where King Edward the 1st. instituted that -famous code of laws, under the title of the statute of Rhuddland, from a -neighbouring barn: and what once contained the parliament of England, now -contains nothing but bark for the supply of a tan-yard. - -The old castle is built of red stone; it consists of a square area, -strongly fortified with a wall. This court we entered through the grand -gateway, between two round towers: the opposite side corresponds. The -whole is encircled by a deep entrenchment faced with stone on the river -side, with two square towers, one of which still remains. - -“The Bishop of St. Asaph,” says Mr. Evans, “distributes among the farmers -of the parish of Rhyddlan, five guineas for the best crop of turnips; and -three guineas for the best crop of wheat upon a fallow, manured only with -lime compost. All the competitors partake of a feast on the day of -decision; and the victors, beside their premiums, have the honourable -distinction of being crowned with the garland of Ceres, by some of the -ladies present.” This stimulus has had great effect in exciting a spirit -of improvement. - -The road from hence to - - - -ST. ASAPH, - - -affords a most rich and beautiful walk, extending along the celebrated -vale of Clwyd. This rich tract of land, called the Eden of North Wales, -extends in length about twenty-five miles, and in breadth about eight. -The neighbourhood of Ruthin affords the best view of this vale. Though -it is by no means so interesting and romantic as the vale of Glamorgan, -yet its high cultivation, and the picturesque, but moderate height of the -hills, rising on each side of the river Clwyd, renders the scenery -pleasing: its chief produce is corn. Both these vales claim the -attention of the traveller; and both have to boast of particular -beauties. One mile from St. Asaph we passed, on our right, the elegant -seat of Sir Edward Lloyd. We still followed the banks of the Clwyd; and -at the farthest extremity a light elegant bridge of seven arches, with -the dark tower of St. Asaph’s cathedral rising on an eminence just over -it, gave a picturesque effect to the whole scenery. - -The town itself is built on a hill, in one straight line, with a few neat -houses. The cathedral naturally demands attention: the inside is -remarkably neat and elegant, entirely Gothic, with the ceiling of -chesnut, and open ribs like the skeleton of a ship. The monument of -David ap Owen, bishop of this diocese, was particularly pointed out to -us. The bishop’s palace has been entirely rebuilt by the present -diocesan. The choir consists of a bishop, dean, six canons, seven -prebends, and four vicars. There are no monuments in the churchyard, and -few of any importance within its venerable walls. - -St. Asaph receives its derivation from its patron, who established a -bishop’s see here, in the year 590: but in British it is named Llan-Elwy, -on account of the conflux of the Elwy with the Clwyd. It is singular, -that the cathedral is not used as a parish church, as all the other Welsh -cathedrals are; and that the bishop’s jurisdiction extends over no entire -county, but includes part of Flintshire, Denbighshire, Montgomeryshire, -Merionethshire, and Shropshire. - -From St. Asaph to Holywell the distance is about ten miles. The first -part of the road continuing through the vale of Clwyd, affords prospects -of agricultural riches rarely excelled; the latter part is rocky and -rugged, but pleasant. On the one side you enjoy the distant view of -Denbigh, with its ancient castle fast mouldering to decay, and on the -other that of Rhyddlan, backed by the distant sea view. The whole of -this tract of country abounds in lead-mines and calamine. Between this -road and the sea stands Downing, late the residence of the celebrated Mr. -Pennant, to whom the world was so much indebted for his numerous and -laborious literary publications. - -On the summit of a lofty hill called Carreg, in the parish of Whitford, -about two miles to the left of the road, is an ancient circular building, -which Mr. Pennant believed to have been a Roman pharos, constructed to -assist in the navigating the difficult channel of Seteia Portus to and -from Deva. This appears the more probable, as it still forms a prominent -landmark, highly useful to the small Welsh sloops and coasting vessels, -which in fine weather drop along with the tides from the lime-rocks, -between Llandrillo and Llanddulas, to Parkgate, Liverpool, &c.; in one of -which I witnessed the rising sun just as we opened the rich and beautiful -vale of Clwyd;—a scene so pre-eminently fine and impressive, that the -lapse of five-and-twenty years has not effaced it from, or weakened it in -my recollection. - - - -HOLYWELL - - -is a place of considerable trade and bustle, with easy access to the sea. -It is pleasantly situated on the side of a hill, possessing many good -houses; but is chiefly famous for its well, which although only little -better than a mile from the sea, furnishes a sufficiency of water to work -eleven mills and factories, viz. one corn mill, four cotton mills, and -six copper and brass mills and forges. - -The quantity of water thrown up is, on an accurate calculation, proved to -exceed eighty-four hogsheads in a minute. It is covered by a small -Gothic building, the canopy of which is of most delicate workmanship. -For its origin, miracles, &c. I must refer the reader to the Life of St. -Winifred, or some of the numerous authorities that have particularized -them: suffice it to say, that the devotees of this saint (whose head was -cut off, and so effectually replaced on her shoulders, that she survived -it fifteen years) were very numerous; and in the last age the well was so -noted, that, according to Mr. Pennant, “The Prince, who lost three -kingdoms for a mass, payed his respects on the 29th of August, 1686, to -our saint, and received as a reward a present of the very shift in which -his great grandmother, Mary Queen of Scots, lost her head.” - -“The Church being situated below the town, the sound of the bell can be -heard but a short distance; to summon the inhabitants to their devotions, -therefore, a person parades the town with a large bell, suspended from -his neck.” {237} - -The supply of water from this well is scarcely ever perceived to vary; -and it has never been known to be frozen, a circumstance of far greater -importance than its miraculous qualities. - -The stage from Holywell to Flint is only six miles, and, like Flint -itself, affords little subject for observation or remark. - - - -FLINT - - -is a small market town, created a free borough in the reign of Philip and -Mary, and confirmed in the 12th of William III. It, in conjunction with -Caerwys, Rhyddlan, Caergwrle, and Overton, sends a member to parliament, -elected by such inhabitants as pay parochial taxes. The castle, begun by -Henry II., and finished by Edward I., stands upon a rock, in a marsh upon -the south bank of the Dee; the channel of which once ran in considerable -depth under its walls, which, even at the present day, are washed at high -tides. By whom, and when it was founded, is uncertain. It is chiefly -famous for being the place where Edward II. received his obnoxious -favourite, Piers Gaveston, on his return from banishment; and where -Percy, Earl of Northumberland, surrendered Richard the Second into the -hands of the Duke of Lancaster. “When Richard arrived at Flint,” says -the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, {238} -“he said to the Duke of Lancaster, afterwards Henry the Fourth, ‘Cousin -of Lancaster, you are welcome.’ ‘My Lord the King,’ returned the Duke, -bowing three times to the ground, ‘I am arrived sooner, than you -appointed me; because the common report of your people reached me, that -you have, for one and twenty years, governed them rigorously, and with -which they are by no means satisfied. It is my desire, if God be -willing, to assist you to govern them better for the future.’ ‘Fair -Cousin,’ returned the wounded monarch, assuming an air of cheerfulness, -‘Fair cousin, since it pleases you, it pleases me also.’ The King and -the Duke soon after made their entry into London, which Shakspeare has -described so beautifully. Richard resigned his crown; and, as a -recompence was soon after murdered in Pontefract castle.” In the reign -of Charles the First, the castle was repaired by Sir Roger Mostyn, and -sustained a lengthened siege, till all the provisions were exhausted, -when it made an honorable surrender in December 1646: it, with Hawarden -and other castles, was dismantled by order of parliament. In proceeding -to Chester, you regain the high road at Northop. Three miles and a half -beyond which, to the left, about a quarter of a mile from the road, on -the edge of a glen, and surrounded by a wood, are to be traced the -remains of Euloe Castle, a small fortress: the proprietor of which, named -Howell, was entitled by ancient custom to give the badge of a silver harp -to the best harper in North Wales. But it is chiefly remarkable for the -defeat which Henry the Second received in the wood in its vicinity, from -David and Conan, the two sons of Owen Gwynedd. By stratagem, they drew -the English army into a narrow pass betwixt the hills: when attacking its -front, flanks, and rear, they routed it with the most dreadful slaughter. -Regaining the road, you soon reach Hawarden, a small neat town, chiefly -remarkable for the ruins of its ancient castle, so frequently mentioned -in history: its remains are to be traced in the grounds of Lady Glynne, -at the east end of the town; little now remains of them, but, from the -eminence on which they stand, you command a fine view of the Dee, and the -county of Chester. - - - -CHESTER, - - -Carlisle, and Conway are the only three British towns or cities that have -preserved their ancient walls anyways entire. Those of Chester are -nearly two miles in circumference, and sufficiently broad to afford room -for two persons to walk abreast; for this purpose they are now kept in -repair, affording an agreeable lounge, fresh air, and, from the different -sides, varied and extensive views. - -The rows are another peculiarity belonging to Chester: the streets, which -are much broader than those of old towns or cities generally, are -considerably excavated: on this lower level are the warehouses, kitchens, -&c. and on the first floor, with galleries, or rows as they are termed, -in their front, are the shops. These galleries afford a covered walk for -foot passengers: they are inconvenient, particularly for ladies, as at -every crossing you have to descend and ascend the different steps: they -give an air of great singularity to the city. - -Chester was formerly termed Caerleon Gawr, or Vawr, and was, during the -time of the Romans, the station of the twentieth legion. Numerous Roman -antiquities have been found here, such as altars, &c. and a _hypocaust_ -or furnace for heating a sudatorium, was a short time back to be seen at -the Feathers’ inn. - -The castle is situate at the north-west extremity of the city. It was -founded by Hugh Lupus, in the reign of William the Conqueror, and has -within these few years undergone considerable alterations. In it was -confined the beautiful, but unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots after her -defeat at Langside. - -The cathedral is a heavy irregular pile of building, affording little -either within or without worthy of observation. It is built of bad -stone, on which the workmanship bestowed was quite good enough: it stands -on the site of the ancient Abbey of St. Werburgh. The altar-piece is a -fine specimen of tapestry, representing the history of Elymas the -sorcerer, taken from one of the Cartoons of Raphael. - -The bishop’s palace, in the Abbey Court, is a handsome modern stone -building. The exchange, or town hall, is an elegant and useful fabric, -standing in the middle of the city. It is supported on columns, and -contains, as well as the common hall, assembly rooms, with every -convenience for the corporation meetings and entertainments. The shire -hall is a handsome stone building, with one of the most complete and -elegant court rooms in the kingdom. The new gaol is likewise a -well-constructed edifice, having five yards, and all the necessary -conveniences for a separation of prisoners. - -Anxious to view the superb seat of the Earl of Grosvenor, Eton Hall, we -did not afford that time to examine this ancient city which it merited; -it will not, therefore, be right for the tourist to be satisfied with -this as a guide to its antiquities, but rather to purchase the local one, -which will afford every information. - - - -EATON HALL, - - -the seat of Earl Grosvenor, recently erected by the present noble earl, -is a splendid Gothic mansion, standing on the site of the ancient fabric, -in an extensive park, surrounded with fine and venerable timber. The -basement of the ancient pile has been preserved, but the superstructure -has been enlarged to double the original dimensions. The style of -architecture is Gothic: but it is proper to observe, that the cathedral -Gothic, of the age of Edward the Third, as exhibited in York Minster, the -church of Newark-upon-Trent, and other celebrated structures in England, -is chiefly imitated, especially on the outside; though Mr. Porden, the -architect, has not scrupled to avail himself of the low Tudor arch, and -the forms of any other age that suited his purpose, which was to adapt -the rich variety of our ancient ecclesiastical architecture to modern -domestic convenience. The same style prevails through the whole of the -interior, but more or less embellished, to suit the uses of the -apartments respectively. Round the turrets, and in various parts of the -balustrades, are Gothic shields, charged in relievo with the armorial -bearings of the Grosvenor family, and of other ancient families, that by -intermarriages the Grosvenors are entitled to quarter with their own. -The windows, which are rich in tracery, are of iron, cast from models in -wood by the iron-founders of Chester, and are, perhaps, the first that -have been made of that material, moulded on both sides and grooved to -receive the glass. The walls, balustrades, battlements, and pinnacles, -are of stone, brought by land-carriage about sixteen miles, from quarries -near Fordsham. It is of a light and beautiful colour, which harmonizes -with the hues of nature in the landscape. - -The park is flat, but the distant country is elevated and various. To -the west the mountains of Wales, with Moel-Famma, rise directly in front; -and to the south and east the hills of Shropshire and Cheshire, with that -remarkable knowl on which Beeston Castle is situated. The city of -Chester lies on the north. From various parts of the park and grounds -this noble mansion is seen to much better advantage, than by the regular -approaches from Chester, &c. - -“The entrance to the house is in the middle of the west front, under a -vaulted portico, which admits a carriage to the steps that lead to the -hall, a spacious and lofty room, occupying the height of two stories, -with a vaulted ceiling, embellished with the Grosvenor arms, &c. in the -knots that cover the junction of the ribs. The pavement is of variegated -marbles in Gothic compartments. On each of the sides is an ornamented -marble chimney-piece, and four niches with pedestals and canopies. The -niches, it is probable, will hereafter be filled with statues, and the -walls covered with historical paintings; for which no family can furnish -more ample materials, as the heads of it were engaged in most of the -military transactions of the English in the chivalrous ages. At the end -of the hall, a screen of five arches supports a gallery, that connects -the bed-chambers on the north side of the house with those on the south, -which are separated by the elevation of the hall. Under this gallery, -two open arches to the right and left conduct to the grand staircase, the -state bed-room, and the second staircase; and opposite to the door of the -hall is the entrance to the saloon. The grand staircase is highly -ornamented with niches and canopies, and with tracery under the landings, -and in the principal ceiling, which is crowned with a double sky-light of -various coloured glass. The steps of the second staircase, with its -tracery and balustrade, are all of cast-iron. The state bed-room is -lighted by two painted windows, with tracery and armorial bearings, and -contains a magnificent bed. On entering the saloon, the eye is struck -with the splendour of three lofty painted windows, which contain, in six -divisions, the portraits of the Conqueror’s nephew, Gilbert le Grosvenor, -the founder of the Grosvenor family, and his lady; of William the -Conqueror, with whom Gilbert came into England; the Bishop of Bayeux, -uncle to the Conqueror; the heiress of the house of Eaton; and Sir Robert -le Grosvenor; who distinguished himself in the wars of Edward the Third, -and more particularly by his legal contest with Sir Richard le Scroope, -for the family arms—_azure_, _one bend_, _or_; in which Sir Richard -gained his point. Sir Robert being obliged to add to them _un bordure -argent_—objecting to which he was allowed to bear the arms of his -relation Hugh Lupus, first Earl of Chester, _azure_, _a garbe_, _or_, -which is the family coat to this day. These windows are from cartoons by -Mr. Thresham and others. The saloon is a square of thirty feet, formed -into an octagon by arches across the angles, which give the vaultings a -beautiful form. The chimney-piece is of statuary marble, and opposite to -it is an organ, both richly decorated. On the left of the saloon is an -ante-room, that leads to the dining-room, and on the right another that -leads to the drawing-room, both decorated, but in a subordinate degree to -the state-rooms with which they communicate. The windows of these rooms -are glazed with a light mosaic tracery, and exhibit the portraits of the -six Earls of Chester, who, after Hugh Lupus, governed Cheshire as a -county palatine, till Henry the Third bestowed the title on his son -Edward; since which time the eldest sons of the kings of England have -always been Earls of Chester. - -“The dining-room, situated at the northern extremity of the east front, -is about fifty feet long, and thirty feet wide, exclusive of a bow -containing five arched windows; the opening of which is thirty feet. In -the middle window is the portrait of Hugh Lupus. This portrait, with the -six Earls of Chester in the ante-room windows are the work of Messrs. -Davenport, of Staffordshire, from Cartoons by Mr. Singleton. The ceiling -is of bold and rich tracery, with coats of arms in proper colours, and a -large ornamented pendant for a chandelier. At the end, opposite to the -entrance, is an arched recess containing the sideboard, and on each side -of it is a large niche, with its pedestal and canopy. The opposite end -of the room has a similar recess, under which is the door from the -ante-room, and similar niches on each side of it. Other niches and -canopies, of smaller size, ornament the jambs of the arched recess and -the bow. - -“The drawing-room, which is at the southern extremity of the east front, -is of the same form and dimensions as the dining-room; with the addition -of a large window that looks to the south, and commands a view of the -groves and fertile meadows of Eaton, with the village and spire of -Oldford above them. All the windows of this room are adorned with heads -and figures of the ancestors of the family; among which are the portraits -of the present Earl and Countess, in a beautiful brown _chiaro-oscuro_, -executed by Messrs. Bachelor and Silk, of Newman-street, and do credit to -the talents of those ingenious artists. The niches, canopies, and other -ornaments, are the same in situation as those of the dining-room, but of -a lighter and richer design. The ceiling is a piece of embroidery of the -nicest materials and workmanship; where all the coats borne by the -Grosvenor family are blazoned in their proper colours, and also the arms -of Egerton, Earl of Wilton, the father of the present Countess Grosvenor. -The arms of Egerton appear in various parts of the house, and will mark -the date of this fabric to future antiquaries, if all other memorials -should be forgotten or destroyed. The colour of the saloon is blue, the -ante-dining-room of light blue, the dining-room of a bright scarlet, the -ante-drawing-room is hung with light blue satin, the drawing-room with -crimson velvet: the curtains and draperies are of crimson and gold satin, -with gold tassels and fringes, disposed in a striking and picturesque -manner by Messrs. Gillow, under the direction of Joseph Kay, Esq. -architect to the post-office. All the other furniture of these -apartments is the work of the same artificers, and appropriate to the -style of the house. The vistas from the dining-room, through the two -ante-rooms, and the saloon to the south window of the drawing-room, and -in the opposite direction from the drawing-room to the dining-room, -terminating with the splendidly furnished side-board of plate, perhaps -cannot be exceeded in novelty and variety by any thing of the kind in -England. - -“The library is in the centre of the south front. The ceiling and the -large bow-window, with their ornaments, are in the same style as the -rooms already described, but less rich. The book-cases are of English -oak, with arches of tracery, buttresses, pinnacles, and battlements. The -sitting-room of the Countess is the only room on this floor with -square-headed windows and a flat ceiling, and is an apartment of singular -beauty. - -“The middle window of the saloon opens to a vaulted cloister, occupying -the space between the dining and drawing-room, in the east front, which -affords a sheltered walk in all weathers. A flight of steps leads from -the cloister to a spacious terrace, three hundred and fifty or sixty feet -long, laid out in gravel-walks and beds of flowers; from whence other -steps at each end and in the middle descend to the garden and pleasure -grounds, which are disposed with much taste. The view from the terrace -is rich and various. - -“Our limits will not admit of a particular description of the offices and -stables, though both are deserving of attention. The latter surround a -court of 160 feet by 100, and are decorated with battlements and turrets, -and a clock tower, supported by flying buttresses, in a style of Gothic -architecture plainer than that of the house. - -“Eaton Hall and the buildings here described, with their furniture, were -designed by and executed under the direction of Mr. Porden, of -Berners-street.” {247} - -Having been highly gratified with the inspection of this noble edifice -and grounds, we returned to Chester by the side of the Dee, a pleasant -walk of about three miles; amply prepared to do justice to the hospitable -board of a kind friend. Finding but little conversation to be obtained -from us, but on the subject of Eaton Hall, he kindly furnished us with -the preceding account, which he assured us had been corrected, and was -the best extant. - -Hugh Lupus, before spoken of, was appointed by William the Conqueror, -first Earl of Chester; which was erected into a county palatine, enjoying -a sovereign jurisdiction, having parliaments and distinct courts of law. -There is still kept in the British Museum the identical sword with which -Lupus was invested with his dignity; by virtue of which the Earls of -Chester were created sword-bearers of England, and as such were -accustomed to officiate at the coronation of the kings of England. On -the blade of this sword is the following inscription—_Hugo comes -Cestriæ_. - -Chester is famed for the elegant manners of its inhabitants; and no city -in the kingdom can, I believe, boast of more polished or agreeable -society. Our regret at leaving it was so great, that I should recommend -the tourist who carries with him letters of introduction to Chester, to -make arrangement for three or four days or a week’s stay at this engaging -place. - -From Chester to Mold there is but little worthy of remark. The distance -is about twelve miles: part of the road lies over an extensive flat, -called Saltney, a rich and well-cultivated tract of country. Mold is a -small neat town, situate in a pleasant valley, surrounded by gentle -acclivities: here the assizes for the county of Flint are held. It -formerly possessed a strong castle on the north side, built on a mount -called the Bailey-Hill, of which but few vestiges are now remaining: it -is famed in history for the sieges it sustained. The church is a -handsome structure, worthy of attention, built in the reign of Henry the -Seventh, and contains some fine monuments. - -In the vicinity of Mold are large cotton spinning-mills, belonging to a -company at Manchester. The two Leeswoods, one the residence of the Rev. -Hope Wynne Eyton, the other of Mr. Garnor, formerly of Sir George Wynne, -are more remarkable for the gardens, grounds, and more particularly the -beautiful iron gates at the entrance of the lawn of the latter, than for -size and architecture. - -Tower, the residence of the dowager Mrs. Wardle, is a specimen of the -ancient _border-houses_ on the confines of Wales and Scotland. It is a -square tower, consisting of three stories: in the lower story there still -remains a staple in the ceiling—a memorial of the rudeness of the times. -During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, this place was -inhabited by Reinallt ap Gryffydd Bleyddyn; one of the six gallant -captains who defended Harlech Castle on the part of Henry the Sixth. He -and his people were in continual feud with the citizens of Chester. In -1465, a considerable number of the latter came to Mold fair. A fray -ensued between the two parties, and dreadful slaughter was made on both -sides. Reinallt however got the victory, taking prisoner Robert Bryne or -Browne, Mayor of Chester, who, in his private capacity as a draper, had -attended the fair; whom he led to this tower, and hung on the staple in -his great hall. About a mile north-west of the town is Maes Garmon, -famous for the celebrated battle of the Victoria Alleluiatica; in which -the Britons, under the two bishops Germanus and Lupus, in Easter week, -448, defeated and destroyed the Picts and Saxons. Germanus, having -previously directed his soldiers to repeat loudly and generally the word -he should give, he at the proper time pronounced _Alleluja_! The whole -army caught the sacred sound; which they repeated with such energy, that -the mountains echoed the religious exultation; and both combined to -strike such terror into the invading foe, that he fled in the utmost -consternation: numbers fell by the sword, and as many perished in the -adjacent river. This event is commemorated by the Hallelujah Monument, -erected by the late Nehemiah Griffith, Esq. of Rhual. Mold has two inns, -the Black Lion and Griffin: its market is on a Saturday. - -From Mold to Denbigh the distance is about sixteen miles and a half. On -the left of the road is Kilken, visited on account of the beautiful -carved roof of its church, brought from Basingwerk Abbey, on the -dissolution of that house. Above it, on the summit of Moel Famma, is the -monument, erected by the inhabitants of the counties of Flint and -Denbigh, in commemoration of his late majesty King George the Third -having completed the fiftieth year of his reign. The column was designed -by Mr. Harrison, of Lancaster, the architect of Chester Castle, &c. -Under the column were deposited in a vase numerous coins, illustrative of -this memorable reign. Lord Kenyon laid the first stone on the 25th of -October, 1810. In the neighbourhood of Kilken are numerous rich lead -mines and other works; amongst which, Pen y fron, belonging to Mr. -Ingleby, and Llyn y Pandu, held under Lord Grosvenor, by the late John -Wilkinson, Esq., are amongst the richest for their veins, these being -from four to six feet thick; but the great bodies of water from which -they have to free these mines, by means of powerful steam-engines, are -great drawbacks upon their profits. - -Moel Arthur, another portion of the Clwydian Hills, has on the top of it -the remains of a fortified British camp, having two very deep fossæ, with -corresponding valla, on the approachable sides; and on the precipitous -one is a smooth terrace, apparently levelled by art, for exercising the -troops. - -Penbedw Hall, the seat of Mr. Williams, is a handsome object. On the -left of the road, at a small distance from the house, is a carnedd or -tumulus, and the remains of a Druidical circle. - -Bodfari is by some conjectured to be the Varis of Antoninus; but on this -point antiquaries and historians are not agreed, others believing Caerwys -to have been that station. - -Bachegraig is a most singularly constructed house, built by Sir Richard -Clough, who served his apprenticeship to Sir Thomas Gresham; and having -acquired a great fortune by trade, contributed liberally, like his -master, towards the building of the Royal Exchange. The house consists -of a kind of centre and three sides, which form a quadrangle, enclosing a -square area or court. The principal part comprises a hall, with an -adjoining parlour of large dimensions; and the other parts of the -building are carried up to the unusual height of six stories, terminating -with a cupola. We from hence turned back to - - - -CAERWYS, - - -which lies to the right of the road. It was formerly a place of much -consequence, at which the assizes for the county of Flint were held, as -were likewise a species of British Olympics, it being the seat of the -“Eisteddfod,” or Sessions of the Bards and Minstrels; the grand theatre -where, in honourable contention, they tried their skill, poured forth -their extemporaneous effusions, awaked their harps to melody, - - “And gave to rapture all the trembling strings.” - -Under the British princes, the bards and minstrels were associated in -corporate, or rather collegiate bodies; into which none were admitted, -but such as had given proof of their skill in the respective sciences -before proper judges, duly appointed by royal commission. And although -the institution is now dissolved, and the character officially no more, -yet those who, “born with music in their souls, _that_ wish to feast on -raptures ever new,” will consentaneously say, - - “But hail ye mighty masters of the lay, - Nature’s true sons, the friends of man and truth! - Whose song, sublimely sweet, serenely gay, - Amused my childhood, and inform’d my youth. - O let your spirit still my bosom soothe, - Inspire my dreams, and my wild wanderings guide! - Your voice each rugged path of life can smooth; - For well I know wherever ye reside, - There harmony, and peace, and innocence abide.” - - BEATTIE’S MINSTREL. - -The distance from Caerwys to Denbigh is about ten miles. You pass -Lleweni Hall, formerly occupied by the Hon. Thomas Fitzmaurice, uncle to -the Marquis of Lansdown, brother to the Earl of Shelburne, and father of -the late noble possessor. Mr. Fitzmaurice used here to bleach the cloths -made on his estates in Ireland. He travelled to Chester in his coach and -six, and when there stood behind a counter selling cloth. He lived with -the affected humility of a tradesman, and the pomp of a lord: his conduct -was singular, but his motives were good. - - - -DENBIGH, - - -situated nearly in the centre of the vale of Clwyd, is a well-built town, -standing on the declivity of a hill. A large manufactory of shoes and -gloves is here carried on, and annually supplies London with a vast -quantity. The ruins of the Castle, still remaining on a rock commanding -the town, are too celebrated in history, and too cruelly shattered by the -ravages of war, to be passed unnoticed. The principal entrance forms a -fine Gothic arch, with the statue of King Edward the First, its founder, -above it, in an elegant niche, curiously carved, encircled with a square -stone frame. No part of this castle is perfect; but the huge thick -fragments, which are scattered in the most extraordinary and fantastical -manner, seem to tell its former magnificence; and a present view of -things, such as they are, with a retrospect of what they originally were -spreads a gloom over the mind, and interrupts the pleasure of -contemplation; yet still the singular character of this ruin is -particularly interesting. Masses of wall still remain, the proud -effigies of sinking greatness; and the shattered tower seems to nod at -every murmur of the blast, and menace the observer with immediate -annihilation. Amongst these ruins we lingered till the whole was -silvered by the pale rays of the moon. To form a conjecture on the -extent of its apartments is now impossible; but it is thus described by -Leland in his _Itinerary_: - -“The castelle is a very large thinge, and hath many toures in it; but the -body of the work was never finischid. The gate-house is a mervelus -strong and great peace of worke, but the fastigia of it were never -finischid. If they had beene, it might have beene counted among the most -memorable peaces of workys in England. It hath dyverse wardes and -dyverse portcolicis. On the front of the gate is set the image of Henry -Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, in his stately long robes. There is a nother very -high towre, and large, in the castelle, caullid the Redde Towre. Sum -say, that the Earl of Lincoln’s sunne felle into the castelle welle, and -there died; wherapon he never passid to finisch the castelle. King -Edward the Fourth was besiegid in Denbigh castelle, and ther it was -pactid betwene King Henry’s men and hym that he should with life departe -the reaulme, never to returne. If they had taken King Edwarde there -debellatum fuisset.” After the restoration of Charles II., it was blown -up by gunpowder. - -The parish church stands within the walls of the original town. Below -the castle are the fragments of an old church, which, for particular -reasons, that cannot now be ascertained, was never finished: it contains -nine windows on two sides, with a large and handsome one on the east. - -In this town was born the famous Sir Hugh Myddleton. The market is held -on a Wednesday: its distance from London, through Mold, is 218 miles. - -In conjunction with Ruthin and Holt, it sends a member to Parliament. -The principal inns are the Bull and the Crown. - -The vale of Clwyd still retains the character of luxuriant fertility. -About two miles from hence, in our way to - - - -RUTHIN, - - -“Denbigh, fair empress of the vale,” with its tottering towers, formed a -most beautiful landscape; whilst the neat little hamlet of Whitchurch -peeped from among the pomp of groves. - -At the small village of St. Fynnon St. Dyfnog, this curious inscription -over a door, - - “Near this place, within a vault, - There is such liquor fix’d, - You’ll say that water, hops, and malt, - Were never better mix’d;” - -invited the “weary-way wanderer” to partake of the _good things_ within. -This inclined us to be better acquainted with the author of this -_extraordinary_ stanza; and we entreated the landlord to be our director -to the much-esteemed well of St. Dyfnog. Passing through the -church-yard, and from thence through the passage of an alms-house, we -reached a plantation of trees, with a broad gravel walk, almost concealed -from day’s garish light by the thick foliage. This brought us to the -fountain, enclosed in an angular wall, which forms a bath of considerable -size; and so - - —“far retired - Among the windings of a woody vale, - By solitude and deep surrounding shades, - But more by bashful modesty, conceal’d,” - -that the “lovely young Lavinia” might here plunge into the flood, secure -from the intrusion of Palemon. Many wonderful qualities are attributed -to this fountain; but it is more particularly celebrated for the cure of -the rheumatism: the water has no peculiar taste. We returned by a -subterraneous path under the road, which led to the pleasure grounds -adjoining the seat of Major Wylyn. - -Several seats were beautifully dispersed on each side of the vale; among -which, Lord Bagot’s and Lord Kirkwall’s formed the most prominent -features in the landscape. - -Ruthin is a large neat town, only divided from the parish of Llanruth by -a strong stone bridge: the church, which is beautifully situated, is a -handsome modern edifice: and the site of the old chapel is now converted -into a bowling-green. Owen Glendwr, as an act of revenge on Lord Grey, -plundered the town in the year 1400, during a fair, and then retired -among the mountains. In the last century, the loyalists fortified the -castle, and sustained a long siege in the year 1646. - -We still continued skirting the rich vale of Clwyd; but winding up a -steep hill, overlooking the whole of it from one extremity to the other, -we were reluctantly compelled to bid a final adieu to all its vistas, -hamlets, steeples. The whole prospect, glowing with luxuriance, seemed -to assume fresh beauties at this our farewell view: the cattle, which -were grazing in the shorn meadows, and beautifully contrasted with the -ripening corn, appeared more animated; and we discovered, or thought we -discovered, an additional number of villages, peeping from the woody -skirts of the sloping hills. From this point the vale is certainly seen -to great advantage. To give a still greater effect, a thunder-storm came -rolling on; and the clouds were - - “Silent borne along, heavy and slow, - With the big stores of steaming oceans charged.” - -This storm compelled us to seek for shelter in a miserable pot-house; but -the civility of the landlady fully compensated for its want of -accommodations. The effects of the storm rendered the remainder of our -journey much more agreeable, and the heat less oppressive: a dull -uninteresting road continued till we arrived within four or five miles of - - - -WREXHAM. - - -The contrast was too striking to escape our notice; but, having climbed a -steep eminence, the eye commanded an almost boundless range of land; and -the faint colour of the hills, retiring in the distance, was beautifully -combined with the mellow green of nearer woods. The counties of -Cheshire, Shropshire, and a considerable part of Wales, were extended -like a map, for our inspection; the town of Wrexham, rising in the -bottom, animated the scene, with its noble tower overtopping the -numberless little steeples near it. Close to the road we observed -several coal and lead mines, and a melting-house for forming lead into -pigs: these works belong to Mr. Wilkinson. - -The dirty outskirts of Wrexham by no means prepossessed us in favour of -the town; but, viewing it more leisurely, we can safely affirm, that it -is not only the largest, but the best built town in Wales. - -A friendly clergyman conducted us to the church, an elegant building of -the reign of King Henry the Seventh, and called one of the seven wonders -of Wales. The tower is an hundred and forty feet high, and esteemed “a -beautiful specimen of the florid, or reformed Gothic, which prevailed -about that time:” all the figures and ornaments are well designed, and -still in high preservation. The inside is not less elegant; it has -lately been neatly repaired, with a good gallery and organ: the painted -altar-piece is well executed. On the left, facing the altar, is a very -handsome monument by Roubilliac, to the memory of Mrs. Mary Middleton; -both the design and execution reflect the highest credit on the sculptor. -The subject is the Last Day: at the sound of the trumpet a tomb of black -marble bursts open, and a beautiful female figure, clothed in white, -appears rising from it, just awoke from the sleep of death; her form -dignified; candour, innocence, and celestial joy shine in her -countenance, and give it the most feeling and animated expression. In -the back ground, an obelisk, supposed to be erected to her memory, is -rent asunder: above, an angel, enveloped in a cloud, is pointing to -brighter scenes. - -In this church are two other monuments, executed by the same celebrated -master, in memory of some of the Middletons. Their designs, though -striking, cannot be compared to his Last Day. - -The altar-piece was brought from Rome by Elihu Yale, Esq. whose tomb -bears the following inscription:— - - Born in America, in Europe bred, - In Afric travell’d, and in Asia wed: - Where long he lived and thrived—in London died. - Much good, some ill he did, so hope all’s even, - And that his soul, through mercy, ’s gone to heav’n! - You that survive and read this tale, take care - For this most certain exit to prepare. - When blest in peace, the actions of the just - Smell sweet, and blossom in the silent dust. - -Our worthy conductor, perceiving we were great amateurs of painting, and -careful that nothing of consequence should be passed unnoticed by us, -particularly wished us to examine the performance of a young artist then -at Wrexham. A copy, amongst others, of a painting of Rembrandt’s, taken -by Mr. Allen from a celebrated picture, in the possession of Lord Craven, -was most ingeniously executed. The subject is an old man instructing a -young boy; the attention of the latter most admirably preserved; the head -of the former, and the hand particularly, most highly finished. Without -any exaggeration, this painting would do credit to the most scientific -painter, and be esteemed invaluable; it is therefore to be hoped, from -the hands of so young an artist as Mr. Allen, that this performance will -be disposed of where judges of painting may view it with a critic’s eye, -and recommend its merits to those who can afford to encourage industry -and ingenuity. - -Our friend’s invitation to his hospitable parsonage, and agreeable -family, was too kindly urged possibly to be refused: and, in our way to - - - -MARCH WIEL, - - -we visited the seat of P. Yorke, Esq. The grounds and plantations are -very extensive; and the bowery walks, while they afford refreshing -shelter from a summer’s sun, allow partial views of the counties of -Cheshire and Shropshire, with the Wrekin and Brydyork Hills; in short, -through these groves - - “How long soe’er the wanderer roves, each step - Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents - A diff’rent picture—new, and yet the same.” - -The tower of Wrexham, and the town itself, as occasion offers, is a -nearer and an additional charming object. In an alteration of the walks, -a few years since, were discovered below the surface of the ground the -shattered walls of an ancient castle. These fragments Mr. Yorke has left -unimpaired, and they remain a memento of the vicissitudes of fortune: the -entrenchments round the castle, and likewise the original site of the -keep, are still very apparent. - -The house itself is very indifferent: Watt’s Dyke runs through part of -the grounds. In a parlour opposite the garden we observed some fine -paintings of the Hardwicke family. Mr. Yorke has dedicated another room -to the royal tribes of Wales, {259} where the arms and lines of the -descent, as far as they can be traced, are emblazoned and hung up. - -In the coolness of the evening our hospitable host conducted us to the -neat and elegant little country church of March Wiel, lately cased with -stone; and in the year 1788 ornamented with a new painted window, by Mr. -Egington, near Birmingham. The twenty-one compartments contain the arms -and crests of the Middletons and Yorkes, with rich transparent borders. -This window is undoubtedly very elegant, but the subject, in my opinion, -more adapted to a ball than an ornament to a church window. The high -tower appears not in proportion with the body of the church. - -Deeply impressed with sentiments of gratitude towards our reverend -friend, and sensible of his hospitality and kind intentions, we took our -leave of him early the next morning, and pursued our route to - - - -RUABON, - - -purposing to visit Wynnstay Park, the much-admired seat of Sir Watkin -Williams Wynne. On leaving March Wiel, a most delightful prospect spread -before us; in the retrospect, the tower of Wrexham church brought to our -recollection the views of Magdalen College tower, in the vicinity of -Oxford. - -The park of Wynnstay is well stocked with red deer; excellent -plantations; and the house is an elegant modern structure; but has -nothing in the inside particularly deserving the attention of the -traveller. In the grounds, the chief object worthy of inspection, is a -very elegant obelisk, erected to the memory of the present Sir Watkin’s -father. The height is an hundred and one feet; the base of it sixteen, -and the top nine, built with free-stone, and fluted. Round the top is -formed a gallery, with a handsome urn in bronze, after an elegant design, -cast in London: round the base of the column are wreaths of oak leaves, -in the beaks of four eagles, cast in the same metal. On the south-west -side is a door, with a stair-case within the obelisk leading to the top. -We regretted that the key could not be procured, as the prospect from -that elevation must be extremely fine. On the other three sides, an -appropriate inscription, in English, Welsh, and Latin, is to be carved. - -Through this park runs Offa’s Dyke, thrown up by the great king of -Mercia, from whence it derives its name, to check the irruptions of the -Welsh, mark the confines of each country, and give greater security to -his own. It begins at Basingwerk in Flintshire, and ends at Chepstow in -Monmouthshire; extending in a line of not less than one hundred and fifty -miles over rocks and mountains. This great undertaking still retains the -ancient name of Clawdh Offa, or Offa’s Dyke. - -Passing through the little village of Ruabon, situated at the extremity -of Sir Watkin’s park, a very interesting and picturesque country, -composed of rich valleys and gently sloping hills, presented itself to -our view; and, at some distance, we soon caught a glimpse of Chirk -Castle, a noble seat of the family of the Middletons, standing on an -eminence. Four miles from Llangollen we inquired for the wonderful - - - -PONTCYSYLLTY AQUEDUCT, {261} - - -(pronounced Pont y Casulte) or famous aqueduct, erected near that bridge, -over the river Dee, and found ourselves within half a mile of this great -and astonishing undertaking. The stone of which it is built resembles -that of Portland; and the effect which it produces, from whatever point -it is viewed, is highly pleasing. On the middle column is the following -inscription: - - “The Nobility and Gentry of - The adjacent counties, - Having united their efforts with - The great commercial interest of this country, - In creating an intercourse and union between - England and Wales, - By a navigable communication of the three rivers, - Severn, Dee, and Mersey; - For the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade, - Caused the first stone of this aqueduct of - PONTCYSYLLTY, - To be laid on the 25th day of July, M.DCC.XCV. - When RICHARD MYDDLETON, of Chirk, Esq. M.P. - One of the original Patrons of the - Ellesmere Canal, - Was Lord of this Manor, - And in the reign of our Sovereign, - George the Third; - When the equity of the Laws, and - The security of Property, - Promoted the general welfare of the nation; - While the Arts and Sciences flourished - By his patronage, and - The conduct of Civil Life was improved - By his example.” - -“Pont y Cyssyllte, a bridge of several arches, close to it, is quite -eclipsed by its stupendous height and magnitude. In it we recognize the -great water conveyances of ancient Rome, which, though superior in point -of length, were inferior in other respects. Its direction is north and -south, crossing the Dee at right angles. It forms, connected as it is -with the surrounding fine scenery, a noble and magnificent picture; but -to view it to the best advantage, the stranger must ascend the -acclivities on either side of it: from whence he will be highly pleased -with a scene, in which there is every concomitant circumstance that can -please the lover of nature and art.” - -The extent of the aqueduct is nine hundred and eighty-eight feet, and -exhibits nineteen arches, each forty-five feet span. The summit has a -water-trough of cast iron, one thousand and nine feet in length, and in -breadth eleven feet eight inches. The elegant piers lessen upwards -gradually, from ten feet width, and twenty-one feet depth at the base, to -seven feet width, and twelve feet depth at the top. These piers are one -hundred and sixteen feet high from the river, and from their ending, to -the greatest height of the building, twenty feet; making the total -elevation, one hundred and twenty-six feet. To each end of the aqueduct -are added ten feet six inches of iron-work. From centre to centre of -each arch are screwed together eleven strong iron plates, as -strengtheners. - -The lime rocks here are very great; and, by calcination on the spot, are -rendered fit for immediate use; and, as the Ellesmere canal is opened for -public traffic, they must yield immense profit to the proprietors, who -are now enabled to supply all the neighbouring counties, Chester, -Liverpool, &c. - -Wood, water, and sloping hills, all combine to render this vale -interesting. Several detached cottages are sprinkled through its wooded -declivities; and here and there a gentleman’s seat, “embosomed high in -tufted trees,” makes a pleasing feature in the fascinating landscape. -Returning to the turnpike road, a short saunter soon brought us to the -romantically-situated town of - - - -LLANGOLLEN, - - -(pronounced Thlangothlen) completely environed with mountains, with a -high hill to our right, bearing on its narrow peak the small remains of -Castle Dinas Brân. The bridge, adjacent to the town, thrown over the -rapid Dee, consisting of six arches, and formerly esteemed one of the -principal wonders of Wales, by no means answered our expectations. Some -difficulty, no doubt, attended its first erection, as the foundation is -built on the solid rock. - -The elegant description of the valley in the kingdom of Amhara, by Dr. -Johnson, is very applicable to Llangollen; for “all the blessings of -nature seemed here to be collected, and its evils extracted and -excluded.” Without a sigh of regret, not like the discontented Rasselas, -I could here pass the remainder of my days, “in full conviction, that -this vale contains within its reach all that art or nature can bestow. I -could pity those, whom fate had excluded from this seat of tranquillity, -as the sport of chance, and the slaves of misery.” Such is the enviable -situation of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby; who, thus veiled in -obscurity, have fitted up in a true characteristic style an elegant -little cottage, at the west extremity of the town, situated on a knoll. -The two rooms which are allotted for the inspection of strangers are very -handsomely furnished: the dining-room is ornamented with drawings, the -most favourite spots in the vicinity being selected as the subjects. The -window commands a prospect of the mountains, which awfully rise in front. -The study, looking on the well-arranged plantations of the garden, was -appropriately furnished with a choice collection of books. We regretted, -in the absence of the gardener, that we could not gain admittance to the -grounds. The vale of Llangollen, and this enviable retreat, have been -the subject of much admiration, both in verse and prose; and highly -deserve the praises which have been lavished upon it: - - “Say, ivy’d Valle Crucis; time delay’d - Dim on the brink of Deva’s wand’ring floods, - Your ivy’d arch glitt’ring through the tangled shade, - Your grey hills tow’ring o’er your night of woods; - Deep in the vale recesses as you stand, - And, desolately great, the rising sign command; - Say, lovely ruin’d pile, when former years - Saw your pale train at midnight altars bow; - Saw superstition frown upon the tears - That mourn’d the rash, irrevocable vow; - Wore one young lip gay Eleanora’s {265a} smile? - Did Zara’s {265b} look serene one tedious hour beguile?” - -The bridge of Llangollen is thus described by the elegant pen of Mr. -Pennant:—“The bridge, which was founded by the first John Trevor, bishop -of St. Asaph, {265c} who died in 1357, is one of the Tri Thlws Cymru, or -three beauties of Wales: but more remarkable for its situation than -structure. It consists of five arches; whose widest does not exceed -twenty-eight feet in diameter. The river usually runs under only one; -where it has formed a black chasm of vast depth, into which the water -pours with great fury from a high broken ledge, formed in the smooth and -solid rock, which composes the whole bed of the river. The view through -the arches, either upwards or downwards, is extremely picturesque.” - -Having satisfied our curiosity, Dinas Brân, or Crow Castle, next invited -our attention; and having attained the summit of a steep and craggy hill, -commanding a pleasing view of Llangollen, we arrived at the ruins, which -crest this precipice. The remains of this castle are now so trifling, -that it scarcely repays even the enthusiast the trouble of ascending. -Its appearance is by no means picturesque; not a tree to give effect to -the crumbling walls: nor has time spared one of the towers. It was -formerly the residence of Myfanwy Vechan, so celebrated in verse. The -castle is built of the stone which composes the hill, on which it is -erected. - -The prospect is very pleasing. Chirk Castle, Wynnstay Park, {266} and -many other seats of respectability, more particularly conspicuous. Great -part of the vale, and the meandering course of the Dee, may here be -traced; whilst the opposite hills are shelved off in an extraordinary and -unusual manner, resembling so many walls or fortifications. - -The Author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, thus -describes his ascent up this mountain. “The sun was shooting its evening -rays along the vale, embellishing every thing they touched. It having -rained all the morning, the freshness with which spring had clad every -object, gave additional impulse to all our feelings. Arrived at the -summit, the scene became truly captivating: for nature appeared to have -drawn the veil from her bosom, and to glory in her charms. The season of -early spring, which, in other countries, serves only to exhibit their -poverty, displayed new beauties in this. Nature had thrown off her -mantle of snow, and appeared to invite the beholder to take a last look -of her beauties, ere she shaded the cottage with woodbine, or screened -with leaves the fantastic arms of the oak. The clouds soon began to form -over their heads, and a waving column lightly touched their hats. Around -was one continued range of mountains, with DINAS rising above the river. -Immediately below, lay a beautifully diversified vale, with the -Dee,—Milton’s ‘Wizard Stream,’—combining all the charms of the Arno and -the Loire, winding through the middle of it: while on the east side of -the mountain several villages seemed to rest in calm repose. This -beautiful scene was soon converted into a sublime one. For the clouds -assuming a more gloomy character, the tops of all the mountains around -became totally enveloped; and our heads were now and then encircled with -a heavy vapour. A more perfect union of the beautiful and magnificent it -were difficult to conceive. No object was discernible above; but below, -how captivating! Their feet were illumined by the sun, their heads, as -it were, touching the clouds. Above, all was gloomy and dark; below, the -sun, from the west, still illumined the villages and spires, the cottages -and woods, the pastures and fields, which lay scattered in every -direction; while the Dee, at intervals, swept, in many a graceful curve, -along the bottom of the vale. These objects, so variously blended, and -so admirably contrasted with the sombre scene above them, called to the -imagination the golden thoughts of Ariosto; and inspired such a -combination of feelings, that, for a time, they were absorbed in silent -meditation. While they were indulging in this repose, the sounds of -village bells, in honour of a recent marriage, came floating on the -breeze from below. The sounds, softened by the distance, and coming from -a region so far beneath, lulled them with a choral symphony, that excited -the most delightful sensations. And such must ever be the effect on -those whose happiness has not been smothered beneath a load of splendid -vacuities; in whom society has not engendered an infinity of wants; in -whom ignorance has not awakened pride, arrogance, and vanity; and in whom -content has the power of lulling every fever of illegitimate desire.” - -Having descended this steep eminence, we continued our route to Vale -Crucis Abbey, about two miles distant from Llangollen. It would be -advisable for strangers first to visit Valle Crucis, and take Dinas Brân -Castle in their way back to their inn. The transmutations of time are -frequently ridiculous: the long aisles of this monastery, which were once -only responsive to the slow-breathed chant, now repeat the rude -dissonance of ducks, cows, and all manner of poultry. Instead of these -emblems of rusticity, the mind’s eye is more accustomed to appropriate -these antique edifices to the midnight procession of monks issuing from -their cells to perform the solemn service. These neglected walls are too -deeply shrouded by the melancholy grove of towering ash, contiguously -formed, to be seen to advantage. An axe, judiciously used, would be of -service to the ruin, as the elegant window of the chapel is completely -concealed by the luxuriant vegetation around; still, however, a pleasing -melancholy pervades the whole scene. The abbey is beautifully skreened -on all sides by woody hills, which entirely protect it from the -inclemency of the winter. - -This ancient Cistertian monastery was founded by Madoc ap Griffith -Maelor, in the year 1200, and is sometimes called Llan-Egwiste, or -Llanegwast. In this vale is the pillar of Eglwyseg: but the country -people appeared quite ignorant of its situation. Returning to -Llangollen, we pursued the turnpike road to the neat village of - - - -CHIRK. - - -For some way we followed the straight and formal course of a canal, near -this, communicating with the Pont-y-Cyssyllte; we again paused to survey -this wonderful design. The vale, on our left, was indescribably -beautiful; and over the whole was diffused the purple glow of the -evening. The prospect was composed of the miniature parts of the immense -landscape we had viewed from Dinas Brân Hill, each of which we now -contemplated separately as a scene. The moon’s chequered gleam -besilvered the walls of Chirk castle, just as we entered the Hand inn, -where, after the fatigues of a long walk, we met with excellent -accommodation, when considered as a village. - -After breakfast the next morning we endeavoured to obtain admission to -see the inside of Chirk Castle, but without success; though now only -inhabited by servants, who were peremptorily commanded to admit no -strangers. It is situated on an eminence, surrounded by a park and fine -plantations, which are very judiciously laid out. This elegant mansion -has been in the possession of the Middleton family ever since the year -1614. Having gratified ourselves with a survey of this noble park, we -returned to the Oswestry road. Leaving the village of Chirk, we crossed -a new bridge of one arch, elegantly constructed. Near it is another -aqueduct, of considerable extent, now erecting over this river and -valley, which though very inferior to the Pont-y-Cyssyllte, is still a -great undertaking: it is several hundred yards in length, and the brick -piers rise fifty or sixty feet above the level of the water. Near this -is a rich coal mine, lately discovered. - -From hence to Oswestry we traversed a rich enclosed country, and enjoyed -a scene particularly pleasing: all the inhabitants were collected, to -gather in the produce of the ripened field; and - - “Through their cheerful band the rural talk, - The rural scandal, and the rural jest, - Fled harmless.” - -To the traveller and the poet such scenes afford an ample field for -amusement; but waving corn is ill adapted to the canvas of the painter. -About two miles from Oswestry, we passed through the little town of - - - -WHITTINGTON. - - -At this place was fought the battle between Oswald, the Christian King of -the Northumbrians, and Penda, the Pagan King of the Mercians, in which -the former lost his life. An easy walk soon brought us to - - - -OSWESTRY. - - -Its only relics now remaining are the ruins of a chapel, built over a -remarkably fine spring of water; to this was formerly attributed the cure -of various diseases, incident both to man and beast; and though its -miracles have long ceased, yet it still bears the name of the saint. The -remains of the castle, supposed to have been built at the time of the -conquest, are now almost too trivial to be noticed. This town was -garrisoned by the king, in the beginning of the civil wars, but captured -in June, 1644, by the Earl of Denbigh and General Mytton. - -In passing through the town of Oswestry we noticed the church, as being a -very neat building; but, either from our own neglect, or imagining it not -to be ancient, we did not inspect the interior. Oswestry suffered -greatly by fire in the year 1542, and likewise in 1567. - -“The church of St. Oswalde, (says Leland), is a very faire leddid chirch, -with a great tourrid steple, but it standeth without the new gate; so -that no chirch is there withyn the towne. This chirch was sum time a -monasterie, caullid the _White Minster_. After turnid to a paroche -chirch, and the personage impropriate to the abbey of Shreusbyri. The -cloister stoode in hominum memoria ubi monumenta monachorum. The place -and streate wer the chirch standithe is called Stretllan.” From this -place to - - - -LLANYMYNACH, - - -situate on the north bank of the Evyrnwy, a continuation of the rich -enclosed country, showing to advantage the agriculture of these parts, -attended us till we reached the foot of the hill of Llanymynach. From -the summit of this we enjoyed a most beautiful and boundless prospect, -commanding the whole dome of the sky. All individual dignity was -overpowered by the immensity of the whole view, which consisted more -particularly of the rivers Virnwy and Tannad, joining their waters with -the Severn; the lofty waterfall of Pystyll Rhaiadr—the Breddin Hills—and -the Ferwyn Mountains. The geological observations on Llanymynach Hill, -by Mr. Aikin, are so accurate, that to attempt any further description -would be deemed highly presumptuous in me; I shall therefore avail myself -of an account, so ably delineated. - - “The hill of Llanymynach is not only remarkable for the fine prospect - from its top, it is still more worthy notice, as containing by far - the most extensive lime works of any in this part of the country. - The lime of Llanymynach rock is in high request as a manure, and is - sent by land-carriage as far as Montgomery, New-town, and even - Llanidloes: it sells at the kilns for sevenpence a bushel; and from - thirty to thirty-six bushels are reckoned a waggon load; the coal - with which it is burnt, is brought partly from the neighbourhood of - Oswestry, and partly from Sir Watkin Williams Wynne’s pits, near - Ruabon. The lime lies in strata, parallel to the horizon, varying in - thickness from three inches to five feet; it is of an extraordinary - hardness, with but little calcareous spar, and few shells, or rather - marine exuvial; its colour reddish brown, burning to almost white. - Between the strata of lime we found a very tenacious smooth clay, - orange colour ochre, and green plumose carbonate of copper, or - malachite. It was in search of this copper, that the Romans carried - on here such extensive works, of which the remains are still very - visible: they consist of a range of from twenty to thirty shallow - pits, the heaps of rubbish from the mouths of which abound with small - pieces of copper ore, and a cave of considerable dimensions, - terminating in an irregular winding passage of unknown length, - connected with which are two air shafts still remaining open, and the - appearances of several others now filled up: in some of these caverns - are found large and beautiful specimens of stalactite. One of the - levels was explored some years ago, and in it was discovered a - skeleton, with mining tools, and some Roman copper coins. The whole - mass of the hill seems more or less impregnated with copper: whenever - the surface is uncovered, there are evident marks of the presence of - this metal, and the stones composing the rampart of Offa’s Dyke, - which encompasses two sides of the hill, are in many parts covered - with cupreus efflorescences. Between the village and the rock passes - a branch of the Ellesmere canal, which, when navigable, will add much - to the value of these works, by rendering them more accessible to the - surrounding country, and may induce some spirited adventurer to - re-commence a search after copper, which, it is evident, was formerly - prosecuted with considerable success.” - -This description of Llanymynach Hill we pronounce, from our own -observation, to be very accurate, so that the length of the quotation -will be readily excused. Leaving the pretty village of Llanymynach, -situated on the banks of the Virnwy, we resumed our journey to Welsh -Pool. The face of the country was pleasing; and we soon reached the -Breddin Hills, on whose summit a column is erected to commemorate the -victory of Admiral Lord Rodney over the French, in the year 1782. Not -far from hence we passed a handsome aqueduct, admirably constructed over -the river Virnwy, of great strength and stability. The vale of the -Severn affords much picturesque scenery, and we at length arrived at - - - -WELSH POOL QUAY, - - -about three miles from that place. Several vessels were lying here, -which carry on a constant traffic with Worcester, and the towns situated -on the banks of this noble river. Before our entrée into Pool, Powis -castle appeared on an eminence, immediately rising behind the town, and -beautifully backed by a large plantation of trees. - -Welsh Pool derives its name from a black pool in its neighbourhood, (its -Welsh appellation signifying a quagmire or pool), and is one of the five -boroughs in Montgomeryshire, which jointly send a member to Parliament. -The town is by no means neat: it stands on a low hill, and consists of -one principal street, in which are situated the new county hall and -market-places. The Severn is navigable within three quarters of a mile -of this town, which is computed at not less than two hundred miles from -its junction with the British channel. It is the great market for the -Welsh flannel, called gwart, or webb, prepared in many parts of -Merionethshire, and generally used for soldiers’ clothes. This trade, -however, has of late been very inconsiderable. - -Powis castle (anciently called Poole Castle) the seat of Lord Clive, lies -to the right, about one mile from Pool, on the ridge of a rock, retaining -a mixture of castle and mansion. Here Lucien Buonaparte lived several -years. It is built of red stone, and originally contained within its -walls two castles: the entrance is between two round towers. There are -several family portraits in a long gallery, measuring one hundred and -seventeen feet by twenty. The gardens still retain that stiff formality -so much in vogue many years ago; but the curious water-works, in -imitation of the wretched taste of St. Germains en Laye, are now -destroyed. The prospect from the castle is very extensive, comprehending -a view of Welsh Pool, Vale, and Freiddin Hills. From hence to - - - -MONTGOMERY, - - -the Ellesmere canal accompanied us part of the way; and at length, after -a fatiguing walk, we reached the Green Dragon, a small and comfortable -inn. The site of Montgomery is very pleasing, on a gentle ascent, and -backed by a steep hill, beautifully clothed with the rich plantations -belonging to Lord Powis. The town itself is a straggling place, and has -little to recommend it. The remains of the castle are now too trifling -to interest the passing traveller. - -In the year 1094, this castle was gallantly defended by the Normans; but -the Welsh, at last, finding means to undermine the walls, took it by -storm; and after putting the garrison to the sword, levelled it to the -ground. It was rebuilt by King Henry III., in the year 1221, as a check -to the incursions of the Welsh: but a second time razed to the ground by -Llewelyn the Great, Prince of Wales. It afterwards became the seat of -the ancestors of the Lords Herbert of Cherbury, who was born here, and -continued in possession of their descendants, till reduced to its present -ruinous condition by the civil wars. - -The road to - - - -BISHOP’S CASTLE - - -brought us through a very rich country; and, on ascending a hill, about -five miles from Montgomery, a retrospect of the far distant mountainous -country of Wales, to which we were now bidding a last adieu, irresistibly -brought on a train of serious reflections. In a retrospect like this, -where the subject and the scene must inspire serious thoughts, such -traces are not unpleasing; they tend to promote one general effect—the -love of contemplation. We enumerated the little incidents which had -taken place, indulging reflections on scenes for ever past:—we erected on -the spot which we esteemed most adapted to retirement, the visionary -cottage: our schemes were instantly arranged: fancy fashioned its -ornaments, adapted its appendages,—and fancy will ever exceed realities. -But all our air-built plans of future happiness soon vanished: and, alas! -when - - . . . “fancy scatters roses all around, - What blissful visions rise! In prospect bright - Awhile they charm the soul; but scarce attain’d, - The gay delusion fades. Another comes; - The soft enchantment is again renew’d, - And youth again enjoys the airy dreams - Of fancied good.” - -Bishop’s castle is situated in a bottom. We found it a more extensive -place than we expected; but being shortly convinced that there was -nothing particular to require a long stay, and having recruited ourselves -at the Castle Inn, we hastened to leave the town. The road, for the -first seven miles, continually dipped into shallow valleys, well wooded, -affording cursory views, with many a substantial farmer’s habitation -lurking amongst the trees. At length a rich and noble vale, with -extensive woods on our right, animated with several gentlemen’s seats, -and watered by an overflowing stream running immediately close to the -road accompanied us to - - - -LUDLOW, - - -situated on an eminence in the midst of this most luxuriant country. -After the many indifferent Welsh towns which we had passed through since -the commencement of our pedestrian excursion, we felt ourselves not a -little chagrined at our uncouth appearance on entering so gay a place. -The streets are commodious, and the houses and public buildings extremely -neat. The gravel walks round the castle are extensive, and command, at -occasional points, distinct prospects of the gentlemens’ seats in the -neighbourhood, with their grounds and noble plantations. The river Teme -gives additional beauty to this fascinating spot: the new bridge recently -erected a little below the castle, forms likewise, from this spot, by no -means an uninteresting object; add to this, at suitable distances, the -river, by means of dams, is formed into small artificial cascades. At -the extremity of the town is another bridge, separating the counties of -Shropshire and Hereford. These walks were laid out in the year 1772, by -the Countess of Powis, at a great expense. The overshadowing trees not -only afford refreshing shelter from a summer’s sun, but are likewise a -protection from the piercing winter’s wind: indeed, - - . . . “I could rove - At morn, at noon, at eve, by lunar ray, - In each returning season, through your shade, - Ye rev’rend woods; could visit ev’ry dell, - Each hill, each breezy lawn, each wand’ring brook, - And bid the world admire; each magic spot again - Could seek, and tell again of all its charms.” - -Towards the north, the mazy course of the Teme,—Oakley Park, the elegant -seat of the Dowager Lady Clive,—the Clee Hills,—the celebrated Caer -Caradoc, with the other eminences near Stretton, terminating the view, -present a most pleasing landscape. Towards the west, a combination of -rock, wood, and water, gratifies the warmest wish of fancy. - -The Whitecliff, opposite to the castle, and Hackluyt’s Close, near the -Leominster road, are the two other most favourite walks; but that round -the castle is resorted to as the most fashionable promenade. The town of -Ludlow has been calculated to contain seven hundred and two houses, and -nearly three thousand five hundred and sixty-five persons. {277} The -public buildings are the market house, the guildhall, the prison (called -Gaolford’s tower), and the cross. The rooms over the latter are -dedicated for the instruction of thirty poor boys, and fifteen poor -girls; and the former at a proper age are apprenticed out. The town -enjoys no particular manufactory, but its chief trade consists in the -article of gloves. - -The castle, the palace of the Prince of Wales in right of his -principality, is now entirely in ruins, except Mortimer’s Tower, which -was repaired by Sir Henry Sidney, during his presidency. It is now -inhabited by an old servant of Lord Powis’s, a very civil and intelligent -man, who related with the utmost concern the sad vicissitudes this castle -had experienced: he insisted on our entering the tower of his habitation, -and ascending the crumbling stairs, for a full display of the various -beauties in the vicinity of Ludlow. He expatiated much on a valuable -diamond ring, which he had discovered himself when attempting to drain a -cellar; the inscription of Hebrew characters round the gold within the -ring was interpreted by the learned, “a good heart;” this, and several -coins of silver and gold, which were found at the same time, are now in -the possession of Lord Powis: near the same spot a number of skeletons -were likewise dug up. He next conducted us to a small room in this -tower, to observe an old stone placed over the fire-place, with a cross, -the letters W. S. and the date 1575, engraven on it. - -Over the south-east gateway, leading into the interior of the castle, are -the arms of Elizabeth, Queen of England; and beneath, those of the Sydney -family, with the following inscription: - - HOMINIBUS INGRATIS LOQUIMINI - LAPIDES.—ANN, REGNI REGINÆ - ELIZABETHÆ 23.—THE 28 YEAR - COPLET OF THE RESIDENCE - OF SIR HENRY SYDNEY KNIGHT - OF THE MOST NOBLE ORDER OF THE - GARTER, 1581. - -This castle, founded by Roger de Montgomery, on a rock, in the north-east -angle of the town, supposed to be in the year 1112, was considerably -enlarged by Sir Henry Sidney. Its ancient British name, Dinan Llys -Tywysog, signifies the Prince’s Palace. The vicissitudes of war have -frequently been exemplified in this castle; it has had its lords and its -princes; it has been plundered, captured, dismantled, and repaired, in -those periods of civil warfare, which this unfortunate country in former -times continually experienced. Phillips, in the History and Antiquities -of Shrewsbury, during those melancholy troubles, gives some account of -this castle. Some historians affirm that King Edward V. and his brother -were born in Ludlow Castle; but others, not crediting this assertion, -attribute their birth-place to Wigmore; certain, however, it is, that -during their minority they here held their court, under the tuition of -Lord Anthony Woodville and Lord Scales, till they were removed to London, -and soon after smothered in the Tower by the command of their cruel and -ambitious uncle, the Duke of Gloucester. Here, likewise, Prince Arthur, -the eldest son of King Henry VII., celebrated his marriage with the -virtuous Catherine of Arragon; and in the year 1502 he here paid the debt -of nature, and was buried in the cathedral church of Worcester. - -The account of the representation at Ludlow of Milton’s celebrated mask -of Comus, is thus mentioned in the life of that poet, prefixed to -Newton’s edition:—“It was in the year 1634 that this Mask was presented -at Ludlow Castle. There was formerly a president of Wales, and a sort of -a court kept at Ludlow, which has since been abolished; and the president -at that time was the Earl of Bridgewater, before whom Milton’s Mask was -presented on Michaelmas night; and the principal parts, those of the two -brothers, were performed by his lordship’s sons, the Lord Brackly and Mr. -Thomas Egerton; and that of the lady, by his lordship’s daughter, the -Lady Alice Egerton.” - -In the first year of William and Mary the presidency was dissolved by act -of parliament, “being a great grievance to the subject, and a means to -introduce an arbitrary power, especially in the late reign, when a new -convert family were at the head of it.” - -The church next demanded our attention, the only one belonging to this -town. The time of the foundation of this ancient and elegant structure -cannot now be strictly ascertained: it is situated on an eminence, in the -centre of the town. The square tower is lofty, and of very light -architecture, but the upper part suffered much from the all-destroying -hand of Oliver Cromwell. The highly finished statues round the -battlements are much mutilated, and many entirely destroyed. On entering -the church, six light Gothic fluted arches on each side, with four -similar ones of larger dimensions, supporting the tower, are strikingly -grand. Under the organ-loft we passed into the chancel, now only made -use of for the administration of the sacrament. This is a most elegant -building, with thirteen stalls on each side, similar, in style, to the -generality of cathedrals. The seats of the stalls, all of which turn -back, exhibit specimens of curious workmanship, with strange devices and -ridiculous conceits. Some of the glass painted windows are still in good -preservation: the large one over the altar-piece represents the history -of St. Lawrence, to whom this church is dedicated, in fifty-four -compartments. The other windows of the chancel are much mutilated, -collected from different parts of the church, and several panes broken by -the unmeaning idleness of boys, regardless of these valuable relics of -antiquity.—In the side of the wall, near the altar, are two stone stalls, -with a piscina opposite. - -In this chancel is a handsome monument, erected to the memory of Robert -Townsend and his wife, with several figures of their sons and daughters -carved round the bottom; over them are the arms of their family and -connexions; it bears the date of 1581: a modern monument to Theophilus -Solway, Esq. An ancient one to Ambrosia Sydney, who died at Ludlow -Castle. This lady was daughter to Sir Henry Sydney, who attained the -important situation of the presidency of Wales in the year 1564. He died -at Bewdley in 1584, and left this singular injunction to his executors: -“That his heart should be buried at Shrewsberry, his bowels at Bewdley, -and his body at Ludlow, in the tomb of his favourite daughter Ambrosia.” -This order was punctually executed; and the leaden urn, containing his -heart, was six inches deep, and five inches in diameter at the top, with -this inscription carved three times round it: - -“Her lith the Harte of Syr Henrye Sydney, L. P. _anno __Domini_, 1586.” -For an engraving of this urn, taken from a drawing of Mr. S. Nicholas, -see the Gentleman’s Magazine for September, 1794. Another monument to -Edward Weston and his wife, kneeling opposite to each other. - -In this church is likewise buried Sir John Bridgeman, the last president -but one of Ludlow Castle. He was extremely rigid in his office; and one -Ralph Gittins, who had probably experienced his severity, composed the -following epitaph on him: - - “Here lies Sir John Bridgeman, clad in his clay: - God said to the Devil, Sirrah, take him away.” - -Should the Tourist find time to make any stay at Ludlow, several -excursions in the neighbourhood will prove highly gratifying. Oakley -Park, the elegant seat of the Dowager Lady Clive, claims the greatest -attention; it is situated about two miles from Ludlow, on the banks of -the Teme River: just beyond this, a seat of — Walpole, Esq. About five -miles distant is Downton Castle, the noble mansion and fine walks of -Richard Payne Knight, Esq. one of the representatives in parliament for -the borough of Ludlow. Being necessitated to leave this charming country -by a particular day, we had no opportunity of visiting these celebrated -and much admired houses. - -With regret we left the delightful situation of Ludlow; and, crossing -Lawford’s bridge, we ascended an eminence along a beautiful terrace, -commanding a most charming and pleasant country to our left, with the -fertile county of Hereford, abounding with orchards, which were all -bending with the produce of the year. About two miles from Ludlow, on -the right, we paused to admire the delightful seat of Theophilus Richard -Solway, Esq., situated on an eminence, and skirted by a rich plantation -of wood towards the west: it is called the Lodge. Descending into a -bottom, a rich country, studded with farm-houses, soon brought us to the -town of - - - -LEOMINSTER, - - -or Leminster, consisting of one long street. The market-place in the -centre, bearing a very old date, and likewise the church, are both -deserving of the traveller’s notice. It is situated in a flat, and the -country round it is not particularly interesting. From hence a -turnpike-road, showing to advantage the rich culture of the country, soon -brought us within sight of the venerable cathedral of - - - -HEREFORD, - - -backed by a sloping eminence just rising behind, and beautifully clothed -with wood. Being under a particular engagement to meet a party at Ross, -to accompany us down the Wye the following day, time would not allow us -to investigate this respectable city so minutely as it deserves. Our -observations, therefore, were so cursory, that the Hereford Guide must -supply the deficiencies in this part of our journal; this neglect the -Tourist must attribute to our delay at the engaging town of Ludlow. - -At Hereford we for some time hesitated respecting the hire of a boat to -convey us to Ross; but the exorbitant demand of the boatmen soon -determined us to pursue the turnpike road, and follow as near as possible -the course of the Wye. The orchards were overcharged with “bending -fruit,” and seemed to prognosticate a more favourable cider season than -has of late been experienced. The retrospect of the city, with its -ancient cathedral, formed a most attracting view; and about three miles a -most lovely vale, bounded by the hills of South Wales, arrested our -attention. A continuation of the same scenery of orchards, in which -Herefordshire so peculiarly abounds, with the road continually dipping -into shallow valleys, attended us within five miles of Ross; when, -ascending a steep hill, a view of that town, or, rather, of its far -conspicuous spire, broke in upon the reposing character of the scene. -This presently conducted us to Wilton bridge, thrown over the Wye; and, -leaving the castle to the left, we ascended the town of - - - -ROSS, - - -to the inn, so celebrated as the original habitation of Mr. Kyrle; more -generally known by the name of the Man of Ross. The landlord seems -rather to depend upon the custom of strangers, from this circumstance, -than the accommodations the inn offers. On the bridge we paused a short -time to take a view of the meandering Vaga, which here considerably -widens. Several pleasure-boats, of various constructions, were riding at -anchor, and united to enliven the watery scene; whilst its smooth -tranquil surface reflected and reverted every object situated on the -banks. - -The life and character of Mr. Kyrle has too often been insisted on, and -too frequently celebrated in verse, to be again repeated, unless to -“point out its moral to the heart;” teaching us that self-approbation can -confer an inward happiness superior to all worldly applause; for, - - “What nothing earthly gives, or can destroy; - The soul’s calm sunshine, and the heart-felt joy, - Is virtue’s prize.” - -Such a bustle pervaded the whole town, of parties assembling here for an -aquatic expedition to Monmouth the following day, that with difficulty we -obtained a small room. From this circumstance it would be advisable for -parties to secure themselves accommodations during the summer months, a -considerable time beforehand; such is the continued assemblage of parties -forming for the Wye. A boat likewise should be hired, and by mentioning -the number of your party, the landlord will be a proper judge respecting -the size. Strangers may pass with pleasure the greatest part of a day in -surveying the views in the vicinity of Ross; views, which must gratify -the most superficial observer, but more particularly from the churchyard. -A walk may be preferred through the latter place to the Prospect, so -called from the profuse variety of objects in the beautiful and the -sublime, which are presented from this spot. The sudden bursts of such a -collection of beauties, the eye, indeed, cannot contain without -gratification. The river below bends itself in the whimsical and -fantastical shape of a horse-shoe; this singular wind of the river—the -ruins of Wilton Castle—the luxuriant counties of Hereford and Monmouth, -and the beautiful Chase Woods, all combine to promote one peculiarly -grand and striking effect. To enter into a minute description of objects -so various and extensive, is impossible: in fine, to delineate the -beauties of the Vaga, with all its accompaniments, would be enumerating -every object that is interesting in nature. Having sufficiently -contemplated the view from the Prospect, a ramble through the meadows -will next prove highly pleasing. - -The situation of Ross, though exceedingly beautiful, has nothing in -itself to detain attention: the streets are narrow, dirty, and -inconvenient. The castle of Wilton, situated on the banks of the Wye, -was founded in the reign of King Henry the First: it was formerly a -nunnery, from whence the Greys de Wilton derive their title. - -Early in the morning we congratulated each other on the favourable state -of the weather, and with good spirits provided all the necessaries -requisite for our water expedition; the enjoyment of which depends much -upon the season. The hire of the boat to Monmouth by water is one pound -eleven shillings and sixpence, not including ten shillings for provisions -for the men, who likewise expect an additional small sum, after the -fatigues of the day. The boat, navigated by three men, will contain ten -or twelve people without any inconvenience, and is properly protected by -an awning from the heat of the sun. The distance from Ross to Chepstow, -by water, is more than forty miles, which strangers occasionally -accomplish in one day: but this hurrying method will not allow them an -opportunity of inspecting, with proper attention, the various objects -which deserve to be noticed; and they cannot possibly find time to leave -their boat, and climb the rugged steep banks of the Wye in search of -views, which, though visited by the discerning few, yet merit the regard -of every amateur of nature’s landscapes. And here it may not be improper -to mention, that the boatmen too frequently suffer these most interesting -spots to be passed unnoticed by strangers, merely from laziness, or to -avoid the delay of a few minutes. Gilpin, in his excellent treatise, -Observations on the River Wye, thus analyzes, in the second section, the -beauties of the “echoing Vaga,” and divides its constituent parts -into—the steepness of its banks, its mazy course, the ground, woods, and -rocks, which are its native ornaments, and, lastly, the buildings. To -this he might with propriety have added its echoes, the variety of views -from its banks, the fishing coracles, which are continually on the river; -for all these contribute to form one pleasing and interesting effect. - -We embarked on board our boat a little below the town; and the first -object which drew our attention was the ivy-mantled walls of Wilton -castle. The annual growth of the few trees which encircle it, will in -time render it a more picturesque object; it is at present so -sufficiently seen from the water as not to require the stranger to -disembark for farther inspection. A few yards below we passed under -Wilton bridge; an elegant structure of several arches. From hence, for -four or five miles, the banks are tame and uninteresting, and so high -above the river as to prevent a prospect of the adjacent country; but a -group of cattle, some ruminating on the brink, some browzing on the -ashlings which overhung the stream, and others - - —“From their sides, - The troublous insects lashing with their tails, - Returning still,” - -formed a “rural confusion.” The velocity of the stream shortly brought -us to that noble scenery, about four miles from Ross, which so eminently -distinguishes and constitutes the beauty of the Wye: before us, the noble -remains of Goodrich Castle, cresting a steep eminence, enveloped with -trees, presented themselves; behind, the thick foliage of Chase Woods -closed the picture. The happiest gradation of tints, and the liveliest -blending of colours were here conspicuous. On the right hand we landed -on the shore, in order to make a minute investigation of the castle: it -is certainly a grand ruin, and stands on an eminence, naturally so steep -as to render it, in former times, capable of some resistance against a -formidable enemy. On our first entrance into the ruin we naturally -indulged reflections on past scenes, contemplated the traces of ancient -splendor; and, connecting what remains with what is destroyed, we -pondered on the vanity of human art and the ravages of time, which -exhibit, in this ruin, their completest triumph. The warrior who strove -to preserve its original grandeur against the attacks of Cromwell is -buried in Walford Church, situated on the opposite side of the river, and -seen from the castle. The different parts of the building bear evident -marks of its having been erected at various times: from a seat in the -castle-yard is the most advantageous spot for surveying, in one view, the -whole of this ruin: {288} an octagon pillar of light and elegant -workmanship, is seen to great advantage through the gateway, and adds -considerably to the magnificence of this ancient pile: it now belongs to -Dr. Griffin, of Hadnock, the lord of the manor. - -To return to our boat, we took a different and more circuitous route, for -the purpose of inspecting the remains of Goodrich Priory, now converted -into a farm. The chapel has experienced the same vicissitude; and those -walls, which formerly re-echoed with the chanting of voices and the -solemn peal, now repeat the continued strokes of the flail. In many -parts of the walls, the initials of names of persons who have long since -paid the debt of nature, and left behind no other memorial, are carved -with characteristic rudeness, showing to every passing stranger the -prevalency of that universal passion—the love of fame. The Gothic -windows, and the cross erected on each end of the building, show evident -marks of its former purpose. The boat usually meets the passengers at -another reach of the river; but it is a plan by no means to be -recommended; since by missing a circuit round the castle, its different -tints and variety of attitudes, occasioned by one of the boldest sweeps -of the Wye, are entirely lost. A short time after we had taken our last -retrospect of Goodrich castle, the spire of Ruredean Church {289} -appeared in front, just peeping from among the woody skirts of the forest -of Dean; a little below, Courtfield House, belonging to Mr. Vaughan, was -seen in a very picturesque point of view, with the ruins of the chapel, -forming the back-ground. In Courtfield House, tradition reports, the -warlike King Henry the Fifth was nursed; and in the church of Welsh -Bicknor, situated to the right in a noble amphitheatre enclosed with -rocks, first embraced the Christian religion. - -A busy scene of craft loading and unloading, and coals shipping for -various parts from the quay at Lidbrook, presents a picture of cheerful -activity, and forms a pleasing contrast to the quiet, rich, and retired -spots we had left behind us: such spots as were well adapted to form the -mind of Britain’s glory—the virtuous Henry. The banks now became richly -clothed with wood, from the summits of the highest rocks to the water’s -edge; and a hill in front, called Rosemary Topping, from the mellow -luxuriance of its sides, closed the prospect. Almost every sweep -presents a new object to strike the admiration of the spectator; the -transitions are sudden, but never so harsh as to disgust. Even the -contrast between the embellishments of art we had just left, and the wild -rocks which here exhibit nature in her most striking attitudes, gave an -additional impression to each other. - -We now reached the fine mass of rocks called Coldwell; one of which, -Symond’s Yatch to the left, it is customary for company to ascend, in -order to view the mazy and circuitous course of the river, and the -extensive prospect around. The forest of Dean, the counties of Monmouth, -Hereford, and Gloucester were extended before us, studded with villages, -diversified with clusters of half-visible farm-houses; with many a grey -steeple, “embosomed high in tufted trees.” In painting the several views -from this summit the happiest description would fail; the impression can -only be conveyed by the eye. The river here makes a most extraordinary -winding round the promontory; and having completed a circuit of more than -five miles, flows a second time immediately under Symond’s Yatch. {290} -The whole of this mazy course may be traced from this eminence. From -hence we discovered a very remarkable polysyllabical articulate echo, and -we reckoned twelve distinct reverberations from the explosion of a gun -fired on this spot. It is here again customary for the boatmen to impose -on strangers, and if they can prevail on them, during their walk to -Symond’s Yatch, will take the boat round the circuit of five miles, and -meet them at New Wier, in order that no time should be lost; but this -laziness we by no means encouraged; and the whole course of this -extraordinary and romantic sweep proved highly gratifying. Goodrich -Spire, which we again wound round, presented itself: huge fragments of -massy rocks which have rolled down from the precipices opposite Manuck -farm, here almost choked up the course of the stream. The changing -attitudes and various hues of Symond’s Yatch, lifting its almost spiral -head high above the other rocks, as we receded and drew near it, supplied -a combination of tints surprisingly gay and beautiful; and having -accomplished a sweep of five miles, we reached, within a quarter of a -mile, the spot where we began our ascent to this steep eminence. - -The view of New Wier next unfolded itself; but a disagreeable scene here -generally occurs, and interrupts the pleasure of contemplation: a large -assemblage of beggars, men, women, and children, on the banks, -bare-footed and scarcely a rag to cover them, followed our boat, -imploring charity; and several almost throwing themselves into the water, -to catch your money, which every now and then the bigger seize from the -less. - -But I have omitted to mention, that before we reached the New Weir, the -spire of Haunton on Wye, cresting a hill at the extremity of a long -reach, and a fantastic barren rock, jutting out from the green foliage -which encircles it, presenting itself bold and conspicuous, formed -prominent and interesting features in the landscape; this is called -Bearcroft, receiving its appellation from the very respectable and -learned counsellor of that name. Several rocks, indeed, particularly in -this part of the river, are named by the council, who have long made it a -practice of exploring the rich and bold scenery of the Wye on their -assize circuit. Gilpin, considering New Weir as the second grand scene -on the Wye, thus describes it: - -“The river is wider than usual in this part, and takes a sweep round a -towering promontory of rock, which forms the side screen on the left, and -is the grand feature of the view. On the right side of the river the -bank forms a woody amphitheatre, following the course of the stream round -the promontory: its lower skirts are adorned with a hamlet, in the midst -of which volumes of thick smoke thrown up at intervals from an iron -forge, as its fires receive fresh fuel, add double grandeur to the scene. -But what peculiarly marks this view is a circumstance on the water: the -whole river at this place makes a precipitate fall, of no great height, -indeed, but enough to merit the name of a cascade, though to the eye -above the stream, it is an object of no consequence. In all the scenes -we had yet passed, the water moving with a slow and solemn pace, the -objects around kept time, as it were, with it; and every steep, and every -rock, which hung over the river, was solemn, tranquil, and majestic. But -here the violence of the stream, and the roaring of the waters, impressed -a new character on the scene: all was agitation and uproar; and every -steep, and every rock stared with wildness and terror.”—The accuracy and -elegance of this description, drawn by so masterly a pen, I hope will -amply compensate for the length of this quotation. The extensive iron -works mentioned in this passage belong to Mr. Partridge. - -Below the New Weir a continuation of the same rich scenery still arrested -our attention, and rocks and wood seemed to contend which should be most -conspicuous; till the winding of the river round Doward’s Rock, on which -was formerly a Roman station, brought us under the house of Mr. Hatley, -which commands a view of the river as far as Monmouth, when it is -terminated by the town, and bridge of six arches. As we drew near - - - -MONMOUTH, - - -the house of Dr. Griffin, situated on an eminence, and a banqueting-room -erected by the inhabitants of the place, appeared above the town on the -left. - -The town of Monmouth lies too low to form a grand appearance from the -water, but is, in itself, neat and well-built, and pleasantly situated on -the banks of the Wye. As we repaired to our inn, we were both -involuntarily led to take a retrospect of the past amusements of the day. -The partial gleams of sunshine had given additional tints to the rich and -bold scenery, and every thing had conspired to render it a most -interesting aquatic excursion. The variety of scenes which Claude would -have selected, had he now existed, for his canvass; with rapture, too, -would he have caught the tints, and with the happiest effect combined the -objects into a picture; kept up our attention, and removed that sameness -which too often accompanies water excursions. Such has been the pleasure -of our first day’s water expedition; and from the impression it made on -us we eagerly looked forward to some future period when we may again -retrace views which memory will ever hold dear, and the pleasure be then -redoubled with the remembrance of past occurrences. - -Opposite the Beaufort Arms, the most convenient inn in the town, is the -town-house, handsomely built, with a full length statue on the outside, -facing the street, with this inscription under it: “Henry the Fifth, born -at Monmouth, August the ninth, 1387.” On the birth of this warlike and -virtuous prince, the charter was granted to the town of Monmouth; it is -governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, fifteen aldermen, nine constables, two -serjeants, and two beadles. The castle now bears few vestiges of its -former grandeur; and of the regal dome, scarcely a wreck has escaped, -through the long lapse of years, and the ravages of time: where a mighty -king once gave audience, and where vassals knelt, now assemble the -animate appendages of a farm-yard. - -Near the castle is a very antiquated house, now converted into a school, -the property of the Duke of Beaufort. To this town Wihenoc de Monemue, -or Monmouth, in the reign of Henry the First, brought over a convent of -Black Monks from St. Florence, and placed them first in the church of St. -Cadoc near the castle, and after in the church of St. Mary. It was among -other ancient priories seized by the crown during the wars with France, -but was restored again, made denison, and continued till the general -suppression in the reign of King Henry the Eighth. {295} From hence we -walked to the church-yard; close to which is the room where Geoffery of -Monmouth composed his well-known history: this is now a day-school. -Monmouth has likewise to boast of a free-school founded here from the -following curious circumstance: Mr. Jones, a native of Newland, being in -distress, left this parish, and went to London, where he engaged himself -as servant to a Hamburgh merchant, and proving trusty in his office, he -was by degrees advanced, till at length he attained a fortune of his own. -Willing to prove how far the charity of his native place would extend -towards him, in disguise he applied for that relief which he was enabled -to show towards others; but his parish taking no notice of him, referred -him to Monmouth, and would not redress his pretended complaints; the -latter, however, being more charitably disposed, relieved him according -to his wishes. Having thus proved their generosity, he acquainted them -of his real situation, and promised to repay their kindness by obliging -them in any demand they should request. On this they solicited the -foundation of a free-school, which he immediately built, liberally -endowed, and which, from that time, has been well supported. The walk to -the Folly, we were informed, would have afforded us some beautiful and -extensive prospects; the whole of which information we should probably -have found true, but the evening closing we were very reluctantly -necessitated to return to our inn. - -Early in the morning we renewed our survey of Monmouth. The church first -demanded notice: it is a handsome structure, but the inside offers -nothing remarkable for the inspection of the antiquary. The gaol, built -after the plan of the benevolent Howard, is situated in a healthy spot; -and in every respect rendered as commodious and comfortable as such a -place will allow for the unfortunate inhabitants. Monmouth, indeed, -contains several good houses, and the neighbourhood is respectable. A -bridge at the extremity of the town, with the ancient gateway, bears -every mark of antiquity. - -The hire of a boat from Monmouth to Chepstow is on the same plan as from -Ross to Monmouth, the distance being nearly equal. Nothing now remained -but to recommence our water excursion; and we accordingly embarked a -quarter of a mile below the town, where the river Monnow joins itself -with the Wye; from hence Monnow-mouth, or Monmouth. The weather still -continued favourable for our schemes: the banks on the left were at first -low, but as we receded from the town, the spire of Monmouth in the -retrospect, with the Kymin Woods rising from a rock of great height on -our left, under which the river meanders, and to our right Pen-y-vall -Hill engaged our attention, and was the bold and rich scenery we enjoyed -on our first re-embarkation. - -The same scenery of rock, wood, and water, which so captivated us on the -preceding day, still continued, occasionally diversified by light vessels -skimming by our boat, and increasing in number as we approached nearer -the sea. The rude hail of the boatmen as they passed, was re-echoed by -the rocks; and the dingy white sails of the vessels, which soon -disappeared round some bold promontory, were particularly picturesque. -Coleman’s Rocks appeared alternately mantled with underwood and pointed -crags; large fragments scattered in the river here divide the counties of -Monmouth and Gloucester. At Redbrook Hills, the curling smoke issuing -from the iron-works formed a pleasing accompaniment to the scenery, and -the whole exhibited a picture of industrious labour. These works belong -to Mr. Turner: the wood and meadow-land of Whitebrook Hills were finely -contrasted with the busy scene at Redbrook. From hence a long reach, -with Fidenham Chase Hill rising conspicuously in the front, brought us to -the village of - - - -LLANDOGO, - - -diversified with cottages from the base to the highest summit of the -sloping eminence. This village is about nine miles from Monmouth, and -arrests particular observation: here vessels of considerable burden were -loading with iron and other commodities for various ports. The -appearance of the river here changed; the translucent stream, which had -hitherto alternately reflected, as in a mirror, the awful projection of -the rocks, and the soft flowery verdure of its banks, was affected by the -influence of the tide, and rendered turbid and unpleasant to the sight. - -A turn of the river soon brought us to the village of - - - -TINTERN, - - -where we observed the ruins of a mansion belonging to Mr. Farmer of -Monmouth. This house appears of an old date, and might probably claim -the attention of the curious antiquary, was he not so wrapt up in -contemplating the venerable abbey, which presents its Gothic pile in -solemn majesty. This august building, great in ruins, and awfully grand -in appearance, impels the stranger, as it were imperceptibly, to land and -inspect its noble arches, tottering pillars, and highly-finished windows: -the specimens of ancient architecture, which formerly were delicately -wrought by the hand of art, are now finely decked by that of nature. On -our first entrance our attention was too much engrossed to exchange the -mutual communication of thought; but the care which has been officiously -taken to remove every fragment lying scattered through the immense area -of the fabric, and the smoothness of the shorn grass, which no scythe -should have dared to clip, in a great measure perverts the character of -the scene: these circumstances but ill accord with the mutilated walls of -an ancient ruin, which has braved the pitiless storms of so many -centuries. In this respect we by no means agreed with Mr. Gilpin, who -thus describes it: “We excuse—perhaps we approve—the neatness that is -introduced within. It may add to the beauty of the scene—to its novelty -it undoubtedly does.” But when this disgust was a little abated, we -indulged those reflections which scenes of ancient grandeur naturally -recall. - -This beautiful ruin is cruciform, measuring two hundred and thirty feet -in length, and thirty-three in breadth; the transept is one hundred and -sixty feet long. {298} This Cisterian Abbey was founded by Walter de -Clare in the year 1131, and dedicated to St. Mary in the reign of King -Henry VIII. It experienced the same fate with many other monasteries, -and was granted at its dissolution to the Earl of Worcester in the year -1537. - -“As the Abbey of Tintern,” says the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, -and Sublimities of Nature, “is the most beautiful and picturesque of all -our Gothic monuments, so is the situation one of the most sequestered and -delightful. One more abounding in that peculiar kind of scenery, which -excites the mingled sensations of content, religion, and enthusiasm, it -is impossible to behold. There every arch infuses a solemn energy, as it -were, into inanimate nature: a sublime antiquity breathes mildly into the -heart; and the soul, pure and passionless, appears susceptible of that -state of tranquillity, which is the perfection of every earthly wish. -Never has Colonna wandered among the woods, surrounding this venerable -ruin, standing on the banks of a river, almost as sacred to the -imagination as the spot, where the Cephisus and the Ilyssus mingle their -waters, but he has wished himself a landscape-painter. He has never sat -upon its broken columns and beheld its mutilated fragments; and its -waving arches and pillars, decorated with festoons of ivy; but he has -formed the wish to forsake the world, and resign himself entirely to the -tranquil studies of philosophy. Is there a man, my Lelius, too rich, too -great, too powerful, for these emotions? Is there one too ignorant, too -vain and too presumptuous to indulge them? Envy him not! From him the -pillars of Palmyra would not draw one sigh; the massacre of Glencoe, the -matins of Moscow, or the Sicilian vespers, would elicit no tear.” - -As we receded from the banks, Tintern Abbey, with the Gothic fret-work of -the eastern window, seemingly bound together by the treillage of ivy, -appeared in the most pleasing point of view; sloping hills and rich woods -forming a fine back-ground. As we drew nearer - - - -CHEPSTOW, - - -some most noble rocks, “Nature’s proud bastions,” opened upon us to the -left, grander than any we had hitherto admired, and which we had -previously determined were inconceivably fine, and surpassed any idea we -had formed of the channel of this romantic river. To add to the -magnificence of the whole, the setting sun tinged the rocks with the most -resplendent colours, and the dewy freshness of the evening improved the -charm of the scene; the one enchanting the sense, the other refreshing -it. The lofty Wynd Cliff to the right; and Piercefield, with the curious -projecting rocks, called the Twelve Apostles and Peter’s Thumb, heighten -to the very extent of beauty this noble view; gratifying beyond measure -to the admirer of nature. Another reach brought us in sight of Chepstow -Castle on a prominent rock, of which it seemed to form a part; noble in -situation, and grand in appearance. The handsome new bridge, the rocks, -and the scarce visible town, here made a most charming picture: this we -enjoyed exceedingly, but regretted a few more minutes would set us on -shore, and conclude our excursion on the Wye; an excursion, which, the -farther we proceeded the more we were interested; and so much so, as to -determine a renewal of this pleasing tour another summer. The former -wooden bridge over the Wye at this place was of very singular -construction; the boards forming the flooring were all designedly loose, -but prevented by pegs, fastened at the extremity of them, from being -carried away by the tide, and by that ingenious contrivance they -gradually rose and fell with it, which is here frequently known to rise -to the extraordinary height of seventy feet. - -Not having visited the church in consequence of the bad weather at the -commencement of our tour, we determined now to inspect it. The entrance -through the western door is an elegant specimen of Saxon architecture, -richly wrought, with three arches; in the inside is the monument of Henry -Marten, one of the regicides who presided at the condemnation of King -Charles I., and was confined in the castle twenty years. A curious -carved one to the Marquis of Worcester and lady, though not buried here; -and another of the date 1620, to the memory of Mrs. Clayton and her two -husbands, both kneeling. This church originally belonged to the alien -benedictine priory of Strigule, but was converted at the Reformation into -the parish church of Chepstow. - -Admittance to the celebrated walks of Piercefield can only be obtained on -Tuesdays and Fridays. To survey these with that attention which they -deserve would occupy several hours; the liveliest description cannot do -justice to the rich and bold scenery, with all its accompaniments; the -eye can alone receive the impression, for, - - “How long soe’er the wand’rer roves, each step - Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents - A diff’rent picture; new, and yet the same.” - -“The winding of the precipice (says Gilpin) is the magical secret by -which all these enchanting scenes are produced.” At one point, both -above and below, as far as the eye can reach, rolls in majestic windings -the river Wye: at another, the Severn, hastening to meet “its sister -river,” is discovered, till at last they are both lost in the Bristol -Channel: at another, these scenes are concealed, and thick woods, -apparently coeval with time itself, and a long range of rock, burst upon -“the wanderer” with irresistible beauty and attraction. The occasional -recurrence also of the rude beach, overshadowed by some umbrageous tree, -and concealed from the steep precipice below by thick underwood, allow -only glimpses of the surrounding scenery. - - * * * * * - -I have thus brought my Tour to a conclusion; a Tour, which has been -productive of much amusement, and, I hope, not entirely devoid of -advantage. It only remains, therefore, for me to add, that the two -friends, having completed a pedestrian circuit of near eight hundred -miles, parted with mutual regret, jointly exclaiming, - - “Cambria, as thy romantic vales we leave, - And bid farewell to each retiring hill, - Where fond attention seems to linger still, - Tracing the broad bright landscape; much we grieve - That mingled with the toiling crowd, no more - We may return thy varied views to mark.” - - - - -SONNETS. - - -SONNET I. TO FRIENDSHIP. - - -Addressed to the companion of my tour. - - O balmy comfort through this varied maze - Of life! thou best physician to the breast, - With deep affliction’s venom’d sting opprest, - A thousand arts, a thousand winning ways - Are thine, to smooth the rugged brow of care, - And mitigate misfortune’s keenest hour: - Yes, A..., partner of my Cambrian Tour, - Friend of my heart, how gladly do I share - Thy confidence; whate’er my part may be - Hereafter on this shifting stage of life, - This busy theatre of jarring strife, - May health and happiness attend both thee - And thine!—on One, thy Heav’nly guardian, trust, - Nor doubt protection—all His ways are just. - - - -SONNET II. THE CONTRAST OF YESTERDAY AND TO-DAY; - - -Supposed to be written on the summit of Snowdon. - - How gay was yesterday!—no storm was heard - To mutter round thy steep—yon sun arose - With golden splendor, and in still repose - Nature majestic through her works appear’d. - To-day how chang’d—loud howls the hollow blast! - The thin mists undulate! thy tow’ring height - Is veil’d in tempest and eternal night! - So ’tis with man! contrasting prospects past - With dreams of future happiness—to-day - In gallant trim his little bark may glide - On the smooth current of the tranquil tide: - To-morrow comes!—the gathering storms display - A sad vicissitude—the whirlwind’s sweep - Grasps at its prey, and whelms it in the deep. - - - -SONNET III. ON LEAVING WALES. - - - Why bursts the tear, as, Cambria, now I leave - Thy wild variety of dale and hill, - Where fancy, fond intruder, lingers still? - Why do these parting sighs my bosom heave? - ’Tis that, alas! I ne’er may view again - Those haunts, those solitary scenes I love; - But through this vale of tears forsaken rove, - And taste the sad vicissitudes of pain: - ’Tis that I sadly breathe a warm adieu - To long-lost scenes of mutual amity; - ’Tis that I turn, my absent friend, to thee, - “Think on past pleasures, and solicit new!” - For thee my fervent prayers to Heaven ascend, - And may we meet again as friend to friend. - - - -SONNET IV. TO THE WELSH HARP. - - - Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds, - Those plaintive airs, that through my senses steal - With melancholy sweet. Their pow’r I feel - Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds. - Gently thou lull’st my suff’rings to repose, - Inclin’st my heart to ev’ry virtuous deed; - Removing from my mind each dark’ning shade - That clouds my days, increasing all my woes. - Now swelling with the breeze, along thy vales, - Romantic Cambria! the strain I hear, - Then dying soft away, comes o’er my ear - In whispers soft, still wafted by thy gales! - Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds, - Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds. - - - -SONNET V. - - -Supposed to be written by moon-light, on the sea-shore at Tenby. - - I love to mark the silver-curling spray - Just kiss the pebbled shore; the zephyr blows, - And ocean slumbers in serene repose; - While the moon’s beams in quiv’ring radiance play - Upon its surface: yet ere long, that tide - May heave its foaming billows to the shore, - And the sea boil in one tempestuous roar. - See here thy picture, man! reason, thy guide, - Can lull each gust of passion into rest! - Her aid divine, her energy once lost, - In what a sea of angry tumults tost, - Raves the mad whirlwind of thy troubled breast! - Blind passion then can reason’s aid refute, - And degradate the man to worse than brute. - - - -SONNET VI. ON SEEING LLANGOLLEN VALE. - - - O thou, too captious of each airy scheme, - Fancy! thou dear delusive traitor, say, - Are not thy charms the phantoms of a day, - That mock possession, like a fleeting dream? - Here could I spend, if such had been my lot, - Quiet my life; nor should the shiv’ring poor - Depart unfed, unaided, from my door. - “Content is wealth,” the emblem of my cot. - Here, by the brook, that gently babbles by, - Should stand my garden; there, the blushing rose - And woodbine should their sweetest scent disclose. - But ah! farewell these dreams;—my big full eye - Swells with the bursting tear—I think, how few - The road to real happiness pursue! - - - -SONNET VII. PROSPECT OF SUN-RISE FROM SNOWDON. - - - How grand the scene from this stupendous height! - How awfully sublime! the king of day - Flames in the east; old Ocean’s waves display - One globe of fire! one boundless flood of light! - With what unclouded lustre blaze the skies! - While Mona’s flats tinged with a golden hue, - Burst with transcendant beauty on the view; - And, Man, {309} thy scarce seen mountains proudly rise. - Nature beneath, seems prostrate; and my sight - Can hardly grasp the vast immensity! - Can then the muse attempt to sing of thee, - Nature’s great God! Father of life and light! - Who bade the sun his annual circle roll, - Who guides, directs, and animates the whole. - - - -SONNET VIII. TO MY DOG. - - - Yes, thou hast been companion of my Tour, - And partner of my toils! hast rov’d with me - Through Cambria’s rude and wild variety, - And often sooth’d the solitary hour - With thy caresses; yet false man can claim - Superior reason, claim a mind endued - With love, with faithfulness and gratitude; - Love a mere sound, and gratitude a name. - Yes, faithful creature! and when thou art gone, - With fond attention shall thy bones be laid; - And a small tribute to thy memory paid - In these few words, engraven on thy stone: - “Here let in peace the faithful Sylvio lie, - The truest picture of fidelity.” - - - - -INDEX. - - PAGE -Aber 216 -Aberaeron 94 -Aber Garth Celyn 216 -Abergele 232 -Aberystwith 95 -Alney, Isle of 12 -Amlwch 196, 201 -Anglesea, or Mona, Isle of 191 -Avon 18 -Aust, or Old Passage 21 -Bachegraig 250 -Bangor 184 -Bardsey, Isle of 139, 140 -Barmouth 124 -Baron Hill 195 -Bearcroft Rock 292 -Beaumaris 195 -Beddgelert 152 -Benglog, Cataracts of 213 -Bishop’s Castle 275 -Blenheim 5 -Bodfari 250 -Bodscallan 234 -Bosherton Meer 71 -Brecon 59 -Breddin Hills and Column 273 -Bristol 13 -Britton Ferry 48 -Brynkir 147 -Bully Bear 71 -Burford 5 -Cader Idris 118 -Caerleon 26, 30 -Caermarthen 55, 61 -Caernarvon 172, 181 -Caerphily 36 -Caer Rhun, or Canovium 226 -Caerwent 25 -Caerwys 251 -Cardiff 32 -Cardigan 93 -Caldecot Castle 24 -Cannant Mawr, Waterfall of 171 -Capel Curig 210 -Carew Castle 67, 78 -Carreg 236 -Castle Dinas Brân, or Crow Castle 265 -Castle Morlais 42 -Castleton 69 -Cayne, Falls of the 132 -Cheltenham 5 -Chepstow 23, 299 -Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur 53 -Cheriton 73 -Chester 239 -Chirk 266, 269 -Christchurch 25 -Clawdh Offa, or, Offa’s Dyke 272 -Cleave Hill 6 -Clenenney 147 -Clifton 19 -Cold Blow 61 -Coldwell Rocks 290 -Coleman’s Rocks 296 -Conway 223, 229 -Courtfield House 289 -Cresseley 79 -Criccaeth 138 -Crickhowel 58 -Cridden 230 -Culhepste, Upper and Lower 44, 45 -Cwmdu 59 -Cwmgu 59 -Cynvel, Pulpit of 137 -Cyttiau Gwyddelod 221 -David’s, Saint 83 -Dee River 261, 264, 266 -Denbigh 252 -Devil’s Bridge 100 -Dinevawr 60 -Dolbadern Castle 171 -Dolgelly 115 -Dolwyddelan Castle 148, 229 -Dol-y-melynlln 131 -Dovey River 111 -Doward’s Rock 293 -Dowdeswell 6 -Downing (Mr. Pennant’s) 236 -Downton Castle 282 -Drwsycoed, Pass of 157 -Dwygyfychi 220 -Dyflas River 114 -Dyganwy, or, Dinas Gonwy 230 -Dynas Brân 265 -Eaton Hall 241 -Eisteddfod 251 -Enstone 4 -Eryri, or Creigaúr Eryri (Snowdoniana) description 166 -of -Euloe Castle 239 -Fauconberg, Earl of, the seat of 6 -Festiniog, Vale of 136 -Fidenham Chase Hill 296 -Fishguard 89 -Flaxley Abbey 22 -Flint 239 -Forest of Deane 27, 290 -Glamorgan, Vale of 38 -Glocester 10 -Gloddaith 234 -Goodrich Castle 287 -Goodrich Priory 291 -Gored Wyddno, or Gywddno’s Weir 230 -Gosddinog 218 -Great Orme’s Head 232 -Green Bridge 62 -Grongar Hill 60 -Gwddu Glâs 220 -Gwydir House 229 -Gwyndy 205 -Harlech 127 -Haverfordwest 81 -Havod 104 -Haunton on Wye 291 -Hawarden Castle 239 -Hênllan 70 -Hepthrop 4 -Hereford 283 -Holyhead 202 -Holywell 236 -Hubberston 76, 126 -Iestingtown, or Iseton 70 -Kidwely 55 -Kilgerran Castle 91 -Kilken, the Church of 249 -King John, cruelty of, to the Jews 14 -King’s Weston 19 -Knole Castle 46 -Kymin Woods 296 -Kymmer Abbey 123 -Landshipping 79 -Lantphey Castle 68 -Leeswood 248 -Leominster 283 -Lidbrook Quay 289 -Lidney 23 -Linney Point 71 -Llanarth 94 -Llanbadem Vawr 99 -Llanbeblic 174 -Llanberris, Vale of 165, 171 -Llandaff 35 -Llandogo 297 -Llandegai 208 -Llandovery 60 -Llandudno 232 -Llanelian 199 -Llanelly 55 -Llanettyd 123 -Llanfair 198 -Llanfairfechin 223 -Llangoed 219 -Llangollen 263 -Llanruth 255 -Llanstaphan Castle 62 -Llanstundwy 146 -Llanwrst 229 -Llanymynach 271 -Llaugharne 62 -Llewini Hall 252 -Llyn Ogwen 212 -Loughor 54 -Ludlow 276 -Lysdin 147 -Machynlleth 113 -Maentwrog 136 -Maen y Campiau 221 -Maes Garmon 249 -Malvern Hills 10 -Mannerch 251 -Mannorbeer Castle 67 -Manuck Farm 291 -March Wiel 258 -Mawddach, River and Fall of 131 -Menai, straits of, and ferries over 173, 178 -— bridge over, description of 189 -Merion Court 70 -Merthyr Tydvil 40 -Milford and Haven 75, 77 -Moel Arthur 250 -Moel Famma and Column 249 -Mold 248 -Mona, or Anglesea 191 -Monkton 69 -Monmouth 27, 293 -Monnow River 296 -Montgomery 216, 274 -Mumbles 52 -Mynach, Falls of 101, 103 -— bridge over the, or Devil’s Bridge 103 -Mynydd Caer Leon 227 -Nangle, Bay of, and Village 70 -Nanhwynan, Vale of 157 -Nanlley, Lake of 157 -Nanneau Park 124 -Nant, Ffrancon 210, 212 -Natives of Eryri 166 -— Courtships, Marriages, &c. of 167 -— Modes of Burying 169 -Neath 46 -Nevin 175 -Newgin 82, 83 -Newnham 23 -New Passage 21 -Newport (Monmouth) 26, 32 -Newport, (Pembrokeshire) 90 -New Wier 291, 292 -Northleach 5 -Northop 239 -Nuneham Courtney 4 -Oakley Park 277, 282 -Offa’s Dyke 260 -Ogwen 210 -— Bank and River 210 -Orielton 69 -Oswestry 270 -Oxford 1 -Oxwich Bay 50 -Oystermouth Castle 52 -Pary’s, or Paris Mountain 193, 201 -Pembroke 68, 73 -Penbedw Hall 250 -Pendyffryn 222 -Pen-mawn-mawr 219 -Penmorfa 149 -Pennard 53 -Penpold (pleasure-house), fine view from 19 -Penrhyn Castle 206 -Penrice 53 -Pentraeth 197 -Pen-y Vall Hill 296 -Peter’s Thumb 300 -Picton Castle 79 -Piercefield 301 -Pistyll y Cayne 133 -Plâs Gwynn 197 -Plâs Newydd 177 -Plinlimmon 111 -Plymouth Works 39 -Pont-Aber-Glaslyn 138, 151 -Pontcysyllty Aqueduct 261, 269 -Pont Neath Vechan 44 -Pont y Prid 38 -Porthogo Cavern 46 -Powis Castle 274 -Priory Pill 77 -Prospect, view from the 285 -Pwllheli 145 -Pystyll Rhaiadr 271 -Ragland Castle 27 -Ramsey Isle 89 -Redbrook Hills and Iron-works 297 -Red Wharf Bay 197 -Rhaiadr-du 137 -Rhaiadr Mawr 227 -Rhaiadr y Mawdach 131 -Rhôscrowther 70 -Rhuabon 260 -Rhual 249 -Rhuddlan 233 -Rhyddol, Vale of and River 99 -Roach Castle 83 -Ross 284 -Ruredean Church 289 -Ruthin 254 -St. Asaph 234 -St. Briaval’s 27 -St. Bride’s Bay 83 -St. Clear’s 61 -St. David’s 83 -St. Degmen’s Well 70 -St. Dogmael’s Abbey 94 -St. Fynnon, St. Dyfnog 254 -St. Govan’s Chapel and Well 71, 74 -St. Julian’s 31 -St. Petrocks 73 -St. Stinan’s, or St. Justinian’s Chapel 102 -Segontium 176 -Seiont, River and Fort of the 176 -Shirehampton 20 -Slebech 81 -Snowdon 158 -Solva 83 -Stackpool Court 71 -— Elidur 70 -Stretllan 271 -Swansea 49 -Sychnant 219 -Symond’s Yatch 290 -Taff River 38 -Taliesin 230 -Talylyn 115 -Tannad River 271 -Tan y Bwlch 135 -Tenby 63 -Tewkesbury 8 -Tintern and Tintern Abbey 297 -Tower 248 -Towy River 61 -Traeth Mawr 149 -Trecastle 60 -Trefan Hall 146 -Tremadoc 137, 150 -Tridegar House 32 -Twelve Apostles’ Rocks 300 -Tynymaes 210 -Tyvi River 91 -Vale of Clwyd 234, 254, 255 -— Conway 229 -— Festiniog 136 -— Glamorgan 38 -— Llangollen 264 -— The Severn 273 -Valle Crucis Abbey 268 -Velindre 90 -Victoria Alleluiatica 249 -Virnway River 271 -Upton 10 -Usk 29 -Walford Church 288 -Welsh, or British Games 221 -Welsh Pool 273 -Westbury 21 -Whitebrook Hills 297 -Whittington 270 -Wilton Castle and Bridge 284, 286, 287 -Witney 5 -Woodstock 5 -Worm’s Head 54 -Wrexham 256 -Wye River 285, 286, 288 -Wynd Cliff 300 -Wynnstay Park 260 -Ynys-halen 204 -Y-Trivaen 212 - - * * * * * - - THE END. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY R. GILBERT, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE. - - - - -FOOTNOTES. - - -{0} For much of the present essay I am indebted to the following -works:—Commentarioli Britanniæ descriptionis fragmentum, Auctore Humfredo -Llwyd; Powel’s History of Wales; Edward Llwyd’s Notes, in Gibson’s -edition of Camden’s Britannica; Rowland’s Mona Antiqua Restaurata; -Stukeley’s Medallic History; the Preface to Owen’s Translation of the -Elegies of Llywarch Hen; Jones’s Musical and Poetical Relics of the Welsh -Bards; the Monthly Magazine, and the first and second volumes of the -Cambrian Register. - -{23} Atkins’s Glocestershire. - -{24} Grose’s Antiquities. - -{25} Warner’s First Walk through Wales. - -{26} He was buried in the cathedral church of St. David, and many -hundred years after canonized by Pope Calistus II.—Godwin’s English -Bishops, p. 414. - -{35a} Willis’s Landaff, p. 34. - -{35b} Grose—Willis. - -{47} Vol. II. p. 92. - -{53a} Pennarth, eight miles south-west of Swansea. - -{53b} From the Welsh Pen Rhys. - -{54} William of Malmesbury, p. 158. - -{67a} Famous as being the birth-place of Sylvester Giraldus de Barri -(more generally known as Giraldus Cambrensis), nephew of David -Fitzgerald, Bishop of St. David’s; to which see Giraldus himself aspired. -He was twice elected to it by the chapter, but never attained that -dignity, although he had refused, in such expectation, three or four -bishoprics, as well as the Archbishopric of Cashel. Acting as legate to -the Archbishop of Canterbury in Wales, he evinced great spirit in -correcting numerous abuses which had crept into the church in that -principality. The great credit which he derived from these spirited -exertions were greatly added to, by the many valuable works he bequeathed -to posterity, the merits of which have been recently revived under the -fostering auspices of Sir Richard C. Hoare, Bart., who has enhanced the -value and interest of his translation of the Itinerary of Giraldus by -illustrations derived from his own pencil. Seventeen years before his -death he resigned all his ecclesiastical preferments, giving himself up -to his studies: he died in the 74th year of his age, at St. David’s, -where his monument is still remaining. - -{67b} The pedestrian will not possibly find time to examine the ruins of -Carew Castle in this day’s route, but will find it more convenient to -visit it in his way from Tenby to Haverfordwest. - -{74} The price for two oars seven shillings and sixpence; and twelve -shillings and sixpence for four oars. - -{75a} Wyndham’s Tour through Monmouthshire and Wales. - -{75b} Philosophical Survey of Ireland. - -{82a} “This castle (says an eminent author) is said to have been built -by Gilbert, Earl of Clare, who lived in the reign of King Stephen; and -Camden reports, that Richard, Earl of Clare, made Richard Fitz-Tancred -governor thereof. It was one of those in the hands of the Flemings, when -they first came into Dyvet, or Pembrokeshire.” - -{82b} These lines were frequently repeated by Dr. Johnson, whose -partiality to inns is well known. - -{84} “This celebrated person was uncle to King Arthur, and son of a -Prince of Wales. After being seated in the see of St. David sixty-five -years, and having built twelve monasteries; after having been exemplary -in the piety of these days, this holy person died, at a most advanced -period of human life; having attained, as it is said, to the age of one -hundred and forty-six years. He was buried in the cathedral church of -St. David, and many years after canonized by Pope Calistus the Second.” -Warrington’s History of Wales, Vol. II. p. 385. - -{85a} To whose son a M.S. t. Elizabeth, quoted by Willis, p. 69, gives -Owen’s monument. - -{85b} Tan. Bib. Brit. - -{85c} Tanner, p. 720. - -{87} Pope Calistus, by whom David was canonized, had, it seems, raised -this place to a rank second only to the pontifical city itself, in the -meritorious efficacy of the pilgrimages made to it; having declared that -two visits to St. David’s were equal to one to Rome:—this occasioned a -proverbial rhyme in Welsh, which has been thus translated into Latin: - - Roma semel quantum, bis dat Menevia tantum. - -{88} Leland, Vol. V. p. 25. - -{90} For a description of these monuments, see Wyndham. - -{91} “From _Cwrwgl_: in Irish _Curach_. The Greenland boats are also -made of laths, tied together with whale-bone, and covered with -seal-skins. In these slender vehicles they are said to be able to row -upwards of sixty miles a day; and the tops being covered with skins, they -resist the fury of every storm. For when a wave upsets them, the boat -rises again to the surface of the water, and regains its equilibrium. -When Frobisher first saw them, in 1576, he took them for seals or -porpoises. In the voyages of the two Zenos, they are compared to -weavers’ shuttles. They are used, also, in the islands of the -North-Asian Archipelago, where the Russians call them _Baidars_; and are -found to be of such practical use, that Lieut. Kotzebue, in his -expedition along the American coast of the Frozen Sea, took with him -boats of a similar construction, in order to ford any rivers that might -obstruct his journey. Similar boats are used by the Samoides of Nova -Zembla. They are also used in Labrador, Hudson’s Bay, and Norton Sound. -They glide with almost inconceivable swiftness. The Arctic highlanders -of Baffin’s Bay, however, have no method of navigating the water. They -never even heard of a canoe.” _Beauties_, _Harmonies_, _and Sublimities -of Nature_, vol. iii. p. 335. Second Edit. - -{94} Itinerary, Vol. V. p. 12. - -{95} Over the river Rhyddol. - -{97} Near the town of Aberystwith, in the year 1795 or 1796, a very fine -coral stone was found, washed up from the sea, by an exciseman. It is -now in the possession of Mr. Charles Hall, of Aller, in Hilton parish, -Dorsetshire; is extremely fine on one side, near two inches in diameter, -rather flat, but with some convexity. The late Dr. Pulteney, of -Blandford, allowed it to be the finest specimen he had ever seen. Its -colour is a yellowish white, its filaments are finely curved, and very -uneven on the surface. - -{100} The additions to Camden, 1695, suppose this Bishop Idnert. - -{111} Called in Latin, Vaga. - -{112} See an excellent account of the woollen manufactory in the seventh -chapter of Aikin’s Tour through North Wales. - -{114} See Pennant’s Snowdonia, p. 89, and likewise Wilson’s excellent -View of Cader Idris. - -{116} Mr. Pennant, in his Snowdonia, p. 397, edit. 1781, mentions, that -there are brought annually to Salop “seven hundred thousand yards of web; -and to Welsh Pool, annually, between seven and eight hundred thousand -yards of flannel;” but he does not state the particulars whence he -deduces his general estimate. I have quoted this passage from Aikin’s -excellent chapter (vii.) on the woollen manufacture of North Wales, not -having in my possession Mr. P.’s Snowdonia. - -{119} First Walk through Wales. - -{144} Dr. Fuller observes—“It would be more facile to find graves for as -many saints, than saints for so many graves.” - -{154} Gelert was given to Llewelyn by King John in 1205. - -{158a} Evan Thomas worked in the copper-works at Aber Glaslin, and lived -at a place called Dous Coreb, about a mile and a half beyond Beddgelert. - -{158b} The most usual and best direction, in which to ascend Snowdon at -the present day, commences between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near -the Bridge. - -{168} “The Cambrian fair would blush as much at the term _courting in -bed_ as any other modest female would, that has never heard of this -custom before. It is not expressed, _Caru-yn-y-Gwely_, which means -_courting in bed_; but _Caru-ar-y-Gwely_, courting on the bed. Should -the lover offer any indecency, his mistress would not only fly from him -with the velocity of lightning, but he would be fortunate if she would so -leave him without giving him a bloody nose at parting. In a few days -also, the tidings of his impudence would reach the ears of every lass in -the neighbourhood; his company would be shunned with the greatest -caution: and were he so successful as to prevail upon a young woman to -accept of his visits, her continency would be considered as doubtful.” - -{170a} “Assembled there, from pious toil they rest, -And sadly share the last sepulchral feast.” - - POPE’S HOMER. - -{170b} This last custom is not in use in Anglesey. - -{173a} Such is the received opinion; but the place noted for this event -is only a thoroughfare to the grand apartments of the tower, the middle -one of which appears more probably to have been the room. They shew, -also, a cradle in which the Prince is said to have been rocked. - -{173b} “On the outside of the town walls is a broad and pleasant terrace -along the side of the Menai, extending from the Quay to the north end of -the town walls, and in the evening is a fashionable promenade for persons -of all descriptions. From the top of a rock behind the hotel is a fine -view of the town and castle: and on a clear day the Isle of Anglesea, -Holyhead, and Paris Mountains, may be distinctly seen, like a good map -before the eyes.” EVANS. - -{174} The parish-church is dedicated to Publicius, a brother of the -far-famed and illustrious Helen, whose splendid acts in favour of -Christianity are at this day attested in Palestine. Near the church are -the remains of Segontium, built about the year A.D. 365, by Maximus; or, -as he is styled by the British historians, Maxen Wledig. It was from -hence, it is supposed, that Maximus marched in his ill-fated expedition -to gain the imperial purple at Rome, taking with him all the youth whom -Helen invited to join his standard. The line of march which he pursued -is, even at this time, traditionally recorded amongst the common people -in the neighbourhood. - -{178} The hire of a boat is from seven shillings and sixpence to -half-a-guinea. - -{179} “The eastern seems originally to have consisted of seven stones, -six uprights supporting an immense superincumbent one (with its flat face -lying upon them), thirteen feet long, nearly as much broad, and four feet -thick.”—Warner’s Second Walk through Wales. - -{181} Before the author of this itinerary proposed publishing this tour -through the Cambrian territories, he was induced to send an account of -this extraordinary sect to the Gentleman’s Magazine, July, 1799, p. 579. -This is, therefore, only to be considered as a repetition: with the -addition of a brief extract from two subsequent letters, September, 1799, -p. 741; and November, p. 938; given to the public by different hands -through the medium of the Gentleman’s Magazine. - -{183} September, 1799, p. 741. - -{185} “Bishops Glynn, 1550; Robinson, 1584; Vaughan, 1597; Rowlands, -1616; Morgan, 1673; and one with a cross fleuri in the south transept, -ascribed to Owen Glendwr; but as he was buried at Monington, in -Herefordshire, where he died, I should rather ascribe it to some of the -earlier bishops. Mr. Pennant gives it to Owen Gwynned.” - -{189} A Trip to the Suspension Bridge over the Menai Straits. P. 11. - -{191} Id est, the _Englishman’s Island_; having become subject to the -English in the time of Egbert. See Rowland’s Mon. Ant. p. 172, 3. - -{208} See an elegant poem written by Owain Cyveiliog, a bard who -flourished in the twelfth century, intitled, “Hirlas Owain.” The -original may be found in Evan Evans’s Collections, published with an -English dress in Pennant’s Tours, Vol. iii. page 93. This spirited -translation, by a gentleman, under the signature of R. W. must convince -the reader of genuine taste, that a true poetical genius pervaded at -times the bosom of the Welsh; and that some of Owain Cyveiliog’s works -scarcely need shrink from a comparison with the first classical -productions of Lyric poetry. - -{217} Princess Joan, daughter of John, king of England. - -{226} A Trip to the Suspension Bridge over the Menai Straits. P. 27. - -{231} Elphin was particularly unfortunate, as the Editor has frequently -seen from fifty to a hundred fine salmon taken from this weir at a tide; -and herrings drawn from it by cart loads. - -{237} Evans. - -{238} Vol. iv. p. 67. 2nd Ed. - -{247} The daughter of this gentleman was married to Captain Franklin, -well known for his Expedition to North America, &c. She was an amiable -and accomplished woman, and author of two Poems, highly honourable to her -memory: “The Veils,” and “Richard Cœur de Leon.” - -{259} Since our visit to this spot, Mr. Yorke has published a most -excellent and valuable book, entitled, An History of the Royal Tribes of -Wales. - -{261} Enquire the way to this aqueduct at the turnpike, about four miles -from Llangollen. - -{265a} Lady Eleanor Butler. - -{265b} Miss Ponsonby. - -{265c} Willis’s St. Asaph, p. 52. 285. - -{266} From a second survey of my note-book, I perceive, when speaking of -the house, I omitted mentioning that there are several family pieces, -both of the Wynne and Williams, worthy the inspection of the connoisseur. -The house has been built at various times. - -{277} This estimation is taken from the Ludlow guide; from which I have -taken such extracts, as, I flatter myself, will not be unacceptable to -the tourist. We dedicated two or three days to the investigation of this -interesting town; and, consequently, in those parts where the guide is -defective, we have made considerable additions. - -{288} “This view,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is one of the grandest on the -river, which I should not scruple to call _correctly picturesque_; which -is seldom the character of a purely natural scene.” - -{289} “The view at _Rure-dean Church_,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is a scene of -great grandeur. There both sides of the river are steep and both woody; -but in one the woods are intermixed with rocks. The deep umbrage of the -forest of Dean occupies the front; and the spire of the Church rises -among the trees. The reach of the river, which exhibits this scene is -long: and, of course, the view, which is a noble piece of natural -perspective, continues some time before the eye: but when the spire comes -directly in front, the grandeur of the landscape is gone.” - -{290} “The river is wider at this part,” says Mr. Gilpin, “and takes a -sweep round a towering promontory of rock; which forms the side-screen on -the left, and is the grand feature of the view. It is not a broad -fractured face of rock; but rather a woody hill, from which large rocky -projections, in two or three places, burst out; rudely hung with twisting -branches and shaggy furniture, which, like mane round the lion’s head, -give a more savage air to these wild exhibitions of nature. Near the top -a pointed fragment of solitary rock, rising above the rest, has rather a -fantastic appearance; but it is not without its effect in marking the -scene. A great master in landscape has adorned an imaginary view with a -circumstance exactly similar: - - Stabat acuta silex, præcisis undique saxis, - —dorso insurgens, altissima visu, - Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum, - —prona jugo, lævum incumbebat ad amnem.” - - Æn, VIII. 233. - -{295} Tanner’s Notitia Monastica. - -{298} Warner’s first Walk through Wales. - -{309} The isles of Anglesea and Man are discovered from Snowdon. - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST [1828]*** - - -******* This file should be named 64127-0.txt or 64127-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/1/2/64127 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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